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 ^^i^t 
 
 EDWARD ANGAS JOHNSON 
 
r^ 
 
 y 
 
 ji 
 
 TRANSPACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
i" 
 
 * 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY OF 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
Trans-Pacific Sketches 
 
 A TOUR TIIROHill THE 
 
 Inrteb St;it« iinJr Caiiitk 
 
 BY 
 
 ALFRED FALK 
 
 " With thoughts so qualified as your charities shall 
 liest instruct you, measure me." 
 
 If^inter's Tale. 
 
 MELBOURNE, SIDNEY, AND ADELAIDE 
 
 MDCCCLXXVII 
 
MELBOURNE: 
 
 I'RINTKD BY WALKliR. MAY, ANIJ CO., 
 
 9 MACKILLOP KTRKET. 
 
r0 3n Pother, 
 
 MRS. FANNY FALK, 
 
 TnKsic Sketchls 
 
 ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. 
 
 yaujiary, 1877. 
 
 m:- 
 
PEE FACE. 
 
 Tin: following pages were written on board the good 
 ship Sobraon, during her last trip from London, to Mel- 
 bourne ; with the sole intention and purpose of relieving 
 the tedium, and breaking the monotony, incidental to a 
 long sea-voyage. 
 
 The writer has been induced to publish them ; it 
 having been represented to him, that they may be of 
 service to a large number of people, who select the 
 American route, by which to proceed to the home 
 country. 
 
 He has aimed at accuracy, and he thinks the facts and 
 figures given, will generally be found correct. 
 
 He has attempted to describe American manners, and 
 customs, impartially, and without giving offence to any 
 
VUI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 citizen of the Great Republic, into whose hands this 
 book may fall. If he has not extenuated what appeared 
 to him as faults, he has on the other hand, given promi- 
 nence to the many admirable traits, and institutions, that 
 must be apparent to visitors to that great country ; and 
 in conclusion he can only say, that were he not an 
 Englishman he would wish to be an American. 
 
 A. F. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTKR I. 
 AUCKLAND, NEW ZKALAXI), AND i'riK FIJI ISLANDS. 
 
 DErARTURK from Sydney — Three King-; Islands — Waitemata 
 Harbour — Manukau Harbour — ')i >criptio!i ot Auckland 
 — Maories — Kandavu — I^ixuriant Vegetation — Fiji IsKinds 
 — History — Natives — Dwellings — Diess — Levuka — Coral 
 Reef — Passing the l8oth Meridian — Hoat Loweiing A[>- 
 paralus — Boat Accommodation of Passenger Ships — 
 '* Crossing the Line" — Arrival at Honolulu 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 HONOLULU AND THE HAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 TllK Sandwich Islands — Decrease of Population — Natives — 
 Position of the Islands — Products — Ciovernment — Liquor 
 Laws — Restriction of the Sale of Opium — Appearance of 
 Honolulu — Harbour — Description of the Town — Taro 
 Plant— "Poi"—Nuuanu Valley— "Pali"— Departure from 
 Honolulu — Arrival at San Francisco ... ... ... r 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 SAN FRANCISCO AND SACRAMENTO CITV. 
 
 Description of the City — History - Streets — Hotels — 
 Public Buildings — Chinese Quarter — Chinese Gambling 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 ITouses — Chinese Theatres — High Cost of Commodities — 
 Sunday Ohservanee — Schools — Sul)uil)s — Cliff House — 
 Theatres — Tram Cars — Commerce — Luggage Arrange- 
 ments — Description of Sacramento — Chinese C^uestion ... 22 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CROSSINC THK SIERRAS— SALT LAKH CITY. 
 
 Slkei'Im; Cars — Snow vSheds — Trestle Bridges — Shoshone 
 Indians — (jreal American Desert — Ogden — Wahsatch 
 Mountains — Salt Lake — Salt Lake City — Tabernacle — 
 Territory of Utah— The Mormons — Their Religion — Their 
 Account of its Origin' — Gentile Account — Church Govern- 
 ment — Histoiy — Service at the Tabernacle — Notes on 
 Mormonism 
 
 37 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 OVER THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS-CHICAGO. 
 
 Devil's Gatk — \Veber Canon — Devil's Slide— Echo Canon — 
 Castle Rocks — Plains — Sherman — Prairie Dog Villages — 
 Omaha — Rridge over the ^lissouri — Burlington— History 
 of Chicago — Great Fire — Fine Position — Water Supply 
 — Streets — Parks — Public Ikiildings — Grain Trade — 
 Cattle Trade — Pork Packing — Hotels 
 
 6i 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DETROIT— THE MAGARA FALLS. 
 
 The City of Detroit — Campus Martins — Commerce — Vicinity 
 — Journey to Clifton — Position and Description of the 
 Falls — Bridge over the Rapids — Under the Falls — Bath 
 Island — Goat Island — Lunar Island — "Three Sisters" — 
 Cave of the Winds — Suspension Bridge — Whirlpool 
 Rapids — W'hirlpool — Lewiston 
 
 76 
 
CUNl'KN IS. 
 
 XI 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 TORONTO AND TRIP DOWN THE 8T LAWRENCE. 
 
 Df.scription or Toronto — University — Queen's Tark — 
 ]'ul)lic Buildings — Sunday Observance — 1 )itTerence 
 between tlie People of Canada and the United States — 
 Kingston — Emperor of 15ra/il — The Tliousand I^lands — 
 Timber Rafts — Rapids of Long Sault — Lake St. l-"rancis — 
 Cedar Rapids — La Chine — Canals 
 
 •A<Jli 
 
 86 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 MONTREAL, (,)UEBEC, AND OTTAWA. 
 
 Position of Montreal — Victoria Bridge— Mont Real — Descrip- 
 tion of the City — Commerce — Appearance of (Quebec — 
 Defences — General P'eatures of the City — Creat Pire — 
 'Mains of Abra1ia!a — Falls of the Montmorency — Pall of 
 the Chaudiere— Return to Montreal — Position of Ottawa 
 — Houses of Pailiament — Vicinity — Slow Progress of 
 Canada — Want of Energy in Canadians — Notes on Emi- 
 gration 
 
 94 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON CANAD ^ AND THE 
 
 COLONL'VL QUESTION. 
 
 Provinces of the Dominion — Government — Population — 
 Imports and P^xports — Treatment of Indiana — Loyalty of 
 the People — Withdrawal of the Troojis —Ignorance in 
 England on Colonial Affairs — Independence of the 
 Colonies versus Consolidation oi the P.mpire— Objects of 
 a Customs' Union ... ... ... ... ... no 
 
xu 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 LAKES CIIAMPLAIN AND GEORGE, SARATOGA, 
 TROY, AND ALBANY. 
 
 PACE 
 
 Pl.ATTSlURf. — Lake Scenery — Fort Ticonderoga — Rogers' 
 Slide — Narrows— Caldwell — Neigh bourliood — Glen's Falls 
 — Saratoga — Hotels — Sjirings— Life at Saratoga — Saratoga 
 Lake — The City of Troy — Position of Albany — Deseription 
 of the City — Greenbush ... ... ... ... 117 
 
 .' 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE HUDSON RIYl'R, \VEST POINT. 
 
 ScENF.RY of the Hudson — Poughkeepsie — Devil's Danskamnier 
 — Newlnirg Hay — West Point — Military College —Nomi- 
 nation of Cadets — Training — Disci})line — Cozzens — IJutter- 
 niilk Falls — Gibraltar — Sing-Sing — Sunnysides — The 
 Pali.sades — Arrival at New York 
 
 129 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 NEW YORK CITY, BROOKLYN, AND LONG BRANCH. 
 
 Posr; ION OF Nkw York— Description of the City — Harbour 
 —Selfishness of Americans — Streets — Squares — Commu- 
 nication within the City — Public Buildings — Churches — 
 Educativ;iial Institutions — Central Park — Theatres — Im- 
 ports and Exports — Brooklyn — Prospect Park— Greenwood 
 Cemetery — Atlantic Dock — Plymouth Church — The Rev. 
 Henry Ward Beecher — Long Branch — Life at Long 
 Branch ... ... ... ... ... ... 136 
 
CONTKNTS. 
 
 XIU 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 BOSTON, HARTFORD, NEW HAVEN, rROVH)ENCE.— 
 NEW ENGLAND CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 i'AGE 
 
 Newport — Boston — I larbour — Pride of Bostonians — Public 
 P)uildings — " Common" — Harvard Univer-ity — CoPogiate 
 Halls — Curriculum — Discipline — The City of Hartford — 
 Trinity College— '* Charter Oak "—Old Puiitau Laws — 
 Position of New Haven — Vale College — Descri[)tion of 
 Providence — New England States — Principal Features — 
 Education — Infanticide— I rreligion ... ... ... 152 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA AND THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBI- 
 TION. 
 The City of Philadelphia — Fairniounl Park — Scjuares and 
 Streets — Independence Hall — C)ther Prominent Edifices — 
 Oirard College — Centennial Exhibition — Chissitication of 
 Exhibits — Main Pudding — Machinery 1 lall — Agricultural 
 Hall — Memorial 1 lall — 1 lorticultural 1 lall — Women's 
 Pavilion — Oovernment Puilding — Subsidiary Buildings — 
 Exhibition (1 rounds — Centeimial Fountain — Accommoda- 
 tion for Visitors ... ... ... ... ... 168 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 BALTIMORE, ANNAPOLIS, AND WASHINGTON. 
 
 Journey to Baltimore — Description of the City — Monuments — 
 Public Edifices — Commerce — Annapolis — Senate Chnmber 
 — Naval College — District of Columbia — Decentralization 
 — The City of Wa.shington — Its Apjiearance — The Capitol 
 — American Speakers compared with English — White 
 House — Treasury — Patent Office — Other Public Buildings 
 — National Memorial— Smithsonian Institute— Corcoran 
 Gallery of Art— Howard University ... ... ... 217 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 CINCINNATI, LOUISVILLE, AND ST. LOUIS. 
 
 I'AflK 
 
 JOURNKY from Baltimore — Scenery — Harper's Ferry — Journey 
 Resumed — Arrival at Cincinnati — Its Position - Cieneral 
 Appearance — Tyler-Davidson Fountain— Pul)lic Edifices — 
 Eden Park — Spring-frrove Cemetery — Trip down the Ohio 
 — Description of Louisville — Commerce — Unrivalled Posi- 
 tion of St. Louis — Its Progress — Appearance— vStreets and 
 Buildings — Mississippi Bridge— Characteristics of Western 
 Men ... ... ... ... ... ... 232 
 
 CHAPTER XVn. 
 
 DOWN THE MISSLSSIPPI TO. NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 The Mississippi River — The ^'' Great Republic'''' — Cairo — 
 Columbus — I Hckman — Memphis — Helena — Napoleon 
 — Vicksburg — Natchez — Baton Rouge — River Scenery — 
 New Orleans — Position — History — Streets and Squares — 
 — Public Buildings — Churches — Public School System — 
 French Market — Cemeteries — Levee — Commerce ... 249 
 
 CHAPTER XVHL 
 MOBILE, SAVANNAH, CHARLESTON, and RICHMOND. 
 
 I^AKK Pontchartrain — The City of Mobile — Harbour — Indians 
 — Vicinity — Montgomery — Atlanta — Macon — Description 
 of Savannah — Pulaski Monument — Bonaventure — Rail 
 to Charleston — Position— Harbour — Its Principal Features 
 — Ruined Plantations — Columbia — Wilmington — Rich- 
 mond — Capitol — St. John's Church — Statue of Washington 
 — Condition of the South ... ... ... ... 266 
 
CDNTENTS. 
 
 XV 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 I'Acr: 
 
 Enkkoy — Silence — Exclusiveness — Extravagance in Language 
 — Extravagance in Dress — Low Tone of ilie Press — 
 Absence of Pauperism — Power of Assimilating Foreign 
 Immigration — Diffusion of Education — Sobriety — Speech 
 — Tobacco-Chewing — Notes on Religion ... ... 285 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 Political Constitution — Administration of the Laws — Effects 
 of Manhood SuflVage — Vote by Ballot — Effects of the 
 Virulence of the Press — Civil Service — Corruption in the 
 Public Service — Venality of Courts of Justice — Reaction — 
 Conflicting Authorities in the State — Difficulty of Central 
 Government — Political Future of the United States 
 
 297 
 
TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND, AND THE FIJI ISLANDS. 
 
 Departurk from Sydney —Three Kings' Islands — Waitemata 
 Harbour — Manukau Harbour — Description of Auckland — 
 Maories — Kandavu — Luxuriant Vegetation — Fiji Islands — 
 History — Natives — Dwellings — Dress — Levuka — Coral Reef- 
 Passing the iSoih Meridian — Boat Lowering Apparatus— lioat 
 Accommodation of Passenger Ships — "Crossing the Line" — 
 Arrival at Honolulu. 
 
 On the fourth day of April, 1876, I embarked at Sydney, 
 on board the good steamship Zealandia^ for San Francisco. 
 Our first destination was Auckland, to receive on board 
 the New Zealand passengers and mails, that would other- 
 wise have proceeded by a branch steamer, and joined us 
 at Kandavu, one of the Fiji Islands, had not an accident 
 happened to the Co/ij/ia, the vessel intended to convey 
 them there. 
 
 As we steamed down Sydney harbour, its manifold 
 beauties were presented, like a moving panorama, to our 
 admiring gaze ; and again was I impressed, as I had been 
 on many previous occasions, with its unequalled loveliness. 
 
 It is impossible to describe that combination of beautiful 
 
 bays, and sandy coves, of lovely islets and headlands, 
 
 2 
 
TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 called Port Jackson ; and once seen, it is equally impossible 
 to forget it. 
 
 As we rounded the various headlands, an entirely new 
 view would be disclosed, more lovely if possible, than 
 the preceding one ; and it must have been a source of 
 regret to every one, that the trip down the harbour lasted 
 but an hour, and that we had only that time in which to 
 revel in its beauties and to imprint them on our minds, 
 to prove a source of pleasant reminiscence during our 
 voyage across the Pacific. 
 
 We soon steamed through the two bold rocky head- 
 lands, called the North and South Heads, the narrow 
 channel between which forms the entrance to Port Jack- 
 son, and were speedily on the broad Pacific, with the 
 Australian coast fading away in the distance. 
 
 On the morning of the fourth day out we sighted the 
 " Three Kings' Islands," which, seen from the distance, 
 seemed to be three enormous rocks, but, on a nearer 
 approach, proved to be a group of islands, distant about 
 forty miles from North Cape, the extreme northernmost 
 point of New Zealand. Skirting the coast, at a distance 
 too great to permit of our noting its general appearance, 
 we passed Cape Brett, situated at the entrance to the Bay 
 of Islands, and steaming down the Hauraki Gulf, between 
 the Great and Little Barrier Islands, soon entered Auck- 
 land harbour, where a remarkably pretty landscape was 
 spread out before us. On one side lay the city, its out- 
 
AUCKLAND. 
 
 skirts extending on either side into the hills ; while the 
 wide expanse of the harbour, with its numerous inlets 
 and islands, lay stretched out in front of it, seemingly 
 landlocked, and resembling a large lake, surrounded by 
 a background of green hills. Auckland is picturesquely 
 situated in the North Island of New Zealand, at a point 
 where its breadth is only six miles; and possesses two fine 
 harbours. Waitemata, the principal of these, and along 
 the shores of which the city is built, is very fine, and one 
 of the safest in New Zealand. It is an inlet of the Firth 
 of Thames, and consists of an inner harbour, almost 
 landlocked by Rangitoto and Tapu Islands, containing 
 good wharfage accommodation ; and an outer bay of 
 considerable extent, called Hauraki Gulf, protected by 
 the Great and Little Barrier Islands. 
 
 On the western side of North Island, and distant 
 only six miles from Auckland, with which it is connected 
 by a tramway, is Manukau harbour, on which is situated 
 the small town of Onehunga, and from which most of the 
 intercolonial trade is carried on. 
 
 Auckland is regularly laid out, the streets being straight 
 and wide, and crossing one another at right angles. 
 Queen Street, the principal thoroughfare, extends a 
 distance of a couple of miles from the wharves, and 
 contains the principal buildings. The public buildings 
 are generally good, built for the most part of brick, faced 
 with stone ; the most important being the Government 
 
TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 ' :- 
 
 Offices, the Post Office and Custom House, and the 
 Supreme Court. Government House is a handsome 
 edifice, erected on an eminence which commands a grand 
 view of the harbour, and situated in the midst of 
 ornamental grounds, containing many fine trees. 
 
 Auckland contains something under 25,000 inhabitants. 
 It is the second city in New Zealand, in point of 
 population and commercial importance, and was, until 
 1865, the political capital of the colony; when it was 
 found advisable to select a town with a more central 
 position for the seat of Government, and the Legislature 
 was removed to Wellington. Auckland has lost, in 
 consequence, some of its former importance j but, from 
 its unrivalled position, seems destined to become a great 
 city, especially when the large tract 01 country occupied 
 by the Maoris is brought under cultivation, and the 
 railway system extended throughout the Island. It is at 
 present a busy thriving place, and is rendered more 
 characteristic of the country than other New Zealand 
 towns by the number of the Aborigines or Maoris seen 
 in its streets. These Maoris are a splendid race ; the 
 men being well formed, and of great size, and their 
 features bear a great resemblance to those of Europeans, 
 except that their noses are broader and flatter. The 
 men dress for the most part in civilized garb, and many, 
 notably the younger, have given up the habit of tattooing 
 themselves. The women are pleasing in appearance, but 
 
MAORIES. 
 
 Still adhere to the practice of tattooing the lower lip. 
 The short black pipe seen in the mouths of many of them 
 quite destroys the romance that might othenvise attach to 
 the softer sex of a brave and unconquered race ; for such 
 they in reality are, living as they do, under their own 
 king, and within their own territory, into which they will 
 not allow any government official to enter. They are a 
 brave race, as is proved by the fact that, during the late 
 war, there were only 3,000 in arms against the Colonial 
 (Government, and there were at one time from 10,000 to 
 1 5,000 troops opposed to them ; and yet, in spite of this 
 great disparity in numbers, everyone must remember how 
 the war was protracted, and the many reverses experienced 
 by the troops. They are shrewd and intelligent, and 
 capable of receiving a comparatively high state of 
 civilization, although it will be the work of several 
 generations — that is, if they survive so long — to eradicate 
 the savagery out of their nature. Even at the time they were 
 first seen by the early settlers, they are described as having 
 been more advanced than is usual with native races ; for 
 they built themselves houses, cooked their food, and, 
 though addicted to cannibalism, and constantly fighting 
 amongst themselves, yet lived in communities, under their 
 own laws, and cultivated patches of land, in which every 
 individual of a tribe had a proprietary interest. In view 
 of what the race is capable of, it seems a great pity that 
 it is dying out very quickly; as from 100,000, the number 
 
TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 they were estimated to have been in the early days of the 
 colony, they have now decreased to 40,000, the decadence 
 being attributed to the intemperance of the men and the 
 unchastity of the women. I may mention that I was 
 struck with the number of public-houses in Auckland, 
 and on enquiry found that there are 98 — in the pro- 
 portion of I to every 250 of the inhabitants. 
 
 We were not allowed a long stay on shore ; but, after 
 embarking the New Zealand mails and passengers, we 
 soon found ourselves again on our course, with a fair 
 wind, and the coast of North Island disappearing on the 
 horizon. The next four days were passed in the 
 monotonous manner usual on shipboard ; and, during the 
 course of the fifth day, we sighted the island of Kandavu, 
 one of the Fijian group, and in a short time were safely 
 at anchor within its harbour. Kandavu was chosen by 
 the mail steamers as a place of call, in preference to the 
 other islands of the group, from its lying more directly 
 in the track and possessing a safe harbour. It contains 
 124 square miles, is evidently of volcanic formation, and 
 its appearance, as viewed from the ocean, is most lovely. 
 Rising out of the water, to a considerable height, its 
 slopes are covered with a dense undergrowth of green 
 vegetation, most refreshing to eyes wearied of the eternal 
 blue of the Pacific. Groups of graceful cocoanut palms, 
 with their waving fronds, and beautiful green bananas, give 
 diversity to the scene ; whilst, here and there, the huts of 
 
FIJI ISLANDS. 
 
 the natives, and the modest dwellings of the white settlers 
 may be seen peeping out from amidst the luxuriant 
 tropical vegetation. The Island is surrounded by a coral- 
 reef, at a distance of about three miles from the shore, 
 and can distinctly be traced by the line of foam, caused 
 by the sea breaking over it. The entrance to the harbour 
 is through a passage in this reef, and the navigation is 
 somewhat intricate and dangerous. The harbour is very 
 safe, with good anchorage, and presents a scene of 
 beauty that could not be anywhere exceeded. A descrip- 
 tion of Kandavu is said to be equally applicable to the 
 other islands of the group, which bear a general 
 resemblance to one another, varying only in size and in 
 a few details. Having only landed on the one, I cannot, 
 however, speak from personal observation. 
 
 The P'ijian Archipelago, discovered by Tasman, the 
 Dutch navigator, in 1643, is composed of numerous 
 islands, of all shapes and sizes, lying midway between 
 the Tongan Islands and the French colony of New 
 Caledonia. The number of the islands is estimated at 
 225, of which 80 are inhabited. They extend nearly 300 
 miles from east to west, and 200 from north to south, 
 covering an area as large as Wales. The principal are 
 Viti Levu, Vanua Levu, Kandavu, Taviuna, and Ovalau. 
 
 The history of the islands is interesting, and may 
 briefly be summarised as follows : — The first white settle- 
 ment was made in 1804 by a party of convicts who 
 
8 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 escaped from the then existing penal estabHshment at 
 Botany Bay, in New South Wales ; and the number was 
 augmented by shipwrecked sailors and deserters from 
 whaling ships, which often put in at the islands for water. 
 
 In 1835 a few small traders effected a lodgment at 
 the present site of Levuka, and the small community 
 gradually increased in numbers, until, in 1867, the white 
 population was estimated at 500 souls. A steady tide 
 of immigration then set in from the Australian colonies, 
 and land was brought under cotton cultivation, for 
 which the climate and soil were found to be well adapted. 
 In 1873, the white population had increased to 3,000 ; 
 the imports amounted to over ;^87,ooo, and the exports, 
 principally of cotton, to ;^84,ooo. The unsettled state of 
 affairs prevailing on the islands retarded their progress 
 for some time ; but now that they have become a 
 British colony, with a settled form of Government, they 
 will, doubtless, enter upon an era of continuous pros- 
 perity. Tiie whole population, native and white, is 
 estimated at something under 150,000. 
 
 The Fijians are, for the most part, tall and well-made, 
 varying in colour from yellow to brown, the prevailing hue 
 being a light brown. They are civil, orderly, and tractable ; 
 but this is solely owing to the influence and teaching of 
 the missionaries, as they were formerly cruel, vindictive, 
 and addicted to cannibalism. The Fijis have, in fact, 
 been one of the most successful fields of missionary 
 
 ■.-afitP'^^ 
 
DWELLINGS — DRESS. 
 
 ablishment at 
 e number was 
 ieserters from 
 nds for water, 
 lodgment at 
 11 community 
 567, the white 
 \ steady tide 
 dian colonies, 
 Itivation, for 
 well adapted, 
 ed to 3,000 ; 
 d the exports, 
 etded state of 
 :heir progress 
 e become a 
 irnment, they 
 tinuous pros- 
 nd white, is 
 
 well-made, 
 revailing hue 
 nd tractable ; 
 teaching of 
 1, vindictive, 
 ave, in fact, 
 
 missionary 
 
 labour ; the natives now nearly ail professing Christianity, 
 and their characteristics having been beneficially modi- 
 fied. Their dwellings are constructed of the stalks, and 
 thatched with the leaves of large reeds, and in appear- 
 ance somewhat resemble Highland shielings. They con- 
 tain no articles of furniture except mats, made of cocoa- 
 nut fibre, upon which they sleep. Their dress is simi)le ; 
 consisting only of a strip of cloth, or "tapa," called a 
 sulu, wrapped round the waist, and descending to the 
 knees. " Tapa " is a species of cloth, made from the 
 soft bark of the paper mulberry, by beating it witli 
 wooden mallets ; and its fabrication seems to be the 
 special work of the women. They indulge in the nasty 
 habit of anointing their bodies with cocoa-nut oil, which 
 makes them anything but pleasant neighbours ; they also 
 make their hair stand up like a great mop, and wash it 
 with lime, for the purpose of destroying the vermin. 
 The result is, that it becomes of a bright red colour : thus 
 a Fijian's head very much resembles a t'uU-grovvn cabbage 
 in size, and its red colour forms a remarkable and 
 comical contrast to die black hair on his face. Levuka, 
 the capital of the islands, is on the island of Ovalau, and 
 is described as being built on a narrow strij) of beach, 
 from fifty to a hundred yards in width, lying at the foot of 
 the mountains, up which the town, which at present only 
 consists of one narrow street, will have to extend, should 
 it, as is anticipated, increase in population and importance. 
 
lO 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 It 
 
 11 
 
 lAt 
 
 After a pleasant run on shore, we left Kandavu and 
 proceeded on our voyage, sighting during the course of 
 the day several other islands of the group. We 
 obtained, too, a fine view of a coral reef, which gave us 
 a good idea of the formation of these wonderful works 
 of nature. The reef was of elliptical form, and 
 extended a distance, perhaps, of ten miles, easily trace- 
 able by the line of broken water. Within, the water was 
 placid as a mill-pond, and of a lovely green colour ; 
 forming a striking contrast to the deep blue waves of the 
 ocean outside and the line of white foam on the reef. 
 In this natural lake were two small islands, covered with 
 beautiful palms and luxuriant undergrowth, completing a 
 scene of fairy-like loveliness. These islands had all the 
 appearance of being the tops of mountain-peaks, and 
 had at one time, most likely, been two eminences on a 
 larger island, which had subsided. This is the only 
 mode of accounting for the formation of the reef, which 
 must have been many hundred feet deep ; whereas the 
 coral insects that constructed it cannot exist at a greater 
 depth than 120 feet. The land must, therefore, have 
 subsided in the same ratio as the insects built upwards. 
 
 On the morning of the first day out from Kandavu 
 we passed the i8oth meridian of longitude, and, as is 
 usual, in order to bring the ship's time more into accord 
 with that of Greenwich, a day was added to our calendar ; 
 thus we had two Mondays, the 17 th of April. On 
 
BOAT-LOWERING APPARATUS. 
 
 II 
 
 reaching the i8oth meridian our time was twelve hours 
 in advance of that of Greenwich, and by repeating a 
 day, as regards the computation of time, we practically 
 stood still for twenty-four hours, allowing Greenwich to 
 overtake and pass us ; so that we entered the Western 
 Hemisphere twelve hours behind it. As we travelled 
 west now, we had only to alter our time in accordance 
 with the westing made from the i8oth meridian, at the 
 rate of four minutes to a degree, to make it agree with 
 that of any port into which we might put. 
 
 Selecting a fine day when we were going along with a 
 fair wind, the captain exercised the crew in fixing the fire- 
 pumps and hose, and in lowering the boats. The boats 
 on the davits were lowered in about a quarter of an hour ; 
 but it was easy to see that, had there been a heavy sea 
 running, as would most probably be the case in an 
 extremity where the boats would be requisite, they 
 would with great difficulty have been safely lowered into 
 the water. The present system of davits and falls seems 
 very defective ; and it appears strange that large passenger 
 ships are not compelled to adopt Clifford's patent falls, 
 which are highly commended by most nautical men. 
 With these falls a boat could be lowered in a couple of 
 minutes, and thus be the means of saving much valuable 
 life at sea. The boat accommodation of such ships 
 might, with advantage, be more stringently watched before 
 they leave port ; for it is notorious that the boats of most 
 
'I 
 
 1 i 
 
 12 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 large passenger ships are quite inadequate to contain the 
 number of souls on board, and, in most cases, are 
 unprovisioned and defective ; so that, small as the number 
 of boats usually is, even these are found to be quite use- 
 less when required in any sudden emergency. 
 
 AVe crossed the line in longitude i6i° 50', and the 
 event was marked by a large consumption of wines and 
 spirits, and the consequent intoxication of a number of 
 the passengers. This was certainly no improvement on 
 the old method of celebrating the occurrence, which, if 
 rather rough and boisterous in its fun, was yet of an 
 innocuous character. 
 
 On the tenth day we sighted the island of Hawaii, the 
 largest of the Sandwich Islands, and could distinctly see 
 the great volcanic mountain of Manua Loa, 14,000 feet 
 high, bathed in clouds, but with its summit rising above 
 them, clear and sharp-cut against the horizon. We soon 
 approached the island of Oahu, upon which is the port 
 of Honolulu ; and, taking a pilot on board, we entered 
 the harbour in the eveninr^, and soon found ourselves 
 safely moored alongside th', wharf. It was a feat of no 
 small difficulty, working a long ship like the Zcalandia 
 alongside in the dark, and one not effected without some 
 unpleasantness to a schooner lying at the wharf, which 
 received a nasty hug from us as we passed, for which 
 an action for damages has been brought against our 
 captain. 
 
 ^i 
 
in the 
 s, are 
 umber 
 ;e use- 
 
 d the 
 s and 
 3er of 
 nt on 
 ich, if 
 of an 
 
 ii, the 
 
 y see 
 
 feet 
 
 ibove 
 
 soon 
 
 port 
 
 tered 
 
 elves 
 
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 ndia 
 
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 hich 
 
 hich 
 
 our 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 HONOLULU AND THE HAWAHAN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 The Sandwich Islands — Decrease of Population — Natives — Positiiin 
 of the Islands — Products — Government — Liquor Law s — 
 Restriction of the Sale of Opium — Appearance of Honolulu — 
 Harbour — Description of the Town— Taro Plant — " Poi" — 
 Nuuanu Valley—" Pali" — Departure from Honolulu — Arrival 
 at San Francisco. 
 
 The Sandwich Islands, or Hawaiian Archipelago, con- 
 sist of eight larger and seven smaller islands, the principal 
 of which are Hawaii, Maui, Kauai, and Oahu. On the 
 latter is situated Honolulu, the capital. They contain a 
 population of about 50,000, of which 5,000 are white 
 settlers, chiefly British, American, and German. There 
 is also a great number of Chinese on the islands. The 
 present population is supposed to be little over one-tenth 
 of what it was at the time of Captain Cook's visit in 177S ; 
 the great decrease being ascribed to the usual causes of 
 tlie decadence of native races, viz., the white man's fire- 
 water and the unchastity of the women. 
 
 The natives are a fine, inoftensive race, very much 
 resembling the New Zealand Maoris, but undisfigured by 
 the hideous tattoo-marks — far more peacefully inclined, 
 and more industrious ; although, like most native races, 
 they require a great incentive to labour, and consequently 
 
i > 
 
 ;•„ 
 
 14 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 do better at piece-work, than on regular wages. They all 
 speak more or less English, profess Christianity, and 
 crime is unfrequent amongst them. They vary in colour, 
 from yellow to a dusky brown, and many of the men 
 are fine big fellows, clad for the most part in European 
 dress, and are said to make very good sailors. The 
 women are pleasing in appearance, but wear an ungraceful 
 kind of sacque, fastened round the throat, unconfined at 
 the waist, and descending in long folds to their feet ; 
 their heads are generally adorned with garlands of flowers. 
 Men and women are all called Kanakas, that being the 
 native word for man ; thus white men are Kanaka Hauri, 
 and natives Kanaka Mauri; but the distinctive terms in 
 use are Hauri and Kanaka. 
 
 The Hawaiian group lies right in the track of vessels 
 sailing from California to Australia and New Zealand, 
 and also, though less directly so, of those proceeding 
 from California to China and Japan. They thus form a 
 stepping-stone, as it were, on the road between the rising 
 and prosperous States on the western coast of America 
 and the eastern shores of Australia, and seem destined in 
 time, from their position, to become an important element 
 in the trade of the Pacific. 
 
 The products of the islands are sugar, rice, and coffee. 
 These constitute the exports, which in 1870 amounted 
 to ov^r ;^ 400,000, whilst the imports during the same 
 period were nearly a like amount 
 
HONOLULU. 
 
 15 
 
 The government is vested in the king (the reigning 
 monarch being Lunalilo), who appoints governors to the 
 different islands to administer the laws under him ; an 
 executive council of Europeans, and a Legislative Assem- 
 bly, composed in part or altogether of natives. There is 
 a civil and criminal code, but British and American pr*^- 
 cedents are taken, and it may be said that the islands 
 enjoy British law, modified to suit the requirements of a 
 native race. The laws regulating the sale of liquor are 
 very stringent, a retailer o^ spirituous drinks having to 
 pay $1,000 per annum for his license, and being pro- 
 hibited to supply Europeans with drink on Sunday, or 
 natives at any time whatever, under a penalty of $500. 
 If he cannot pay this fine, he is set to work on the coral 
 reefs, at 25 cents a day, until the amount of the fine be 
 worked off. 
 
 The sale of opium to the Chinese is also lessened by 
 making it a monopoly, which is annually sold by auction. 
 By these means the revenue has netted as much as 
 $40,000 in a year ; and the cost of the drug to the 
 Chinese being increased by this large amount, the quan- 
 tity consumed is not so great as it otherwise would be. 
 
 Honolulu, the metropolis and chief port of the group, 
 is a pretty little town, containing about 10,000 inhabi- 
 tants. Its appearance, viewed from the harbour, is 
 remarkably picturesque, being embowered in luxuriant 
 vegetation, with a background of volcanic hills of most 
 
 I 
 
l' 
 
 i6 
 
 TRANS-I'ACIFIC SKETCHF.S. 
 
 ! I 
 
 irregular shapes, their sides covered with verdure, and 
 their craggy peaks rising to a great height. In rear of 
 the town is a peculiarly-shaped eminence called Punch- 
 bowl Hill, the summit of which is crowned by a small 
 battery, to protect the harbour. 
 
 The harbour consists of a roadstead and an inner 
 basin ; the former protected by a spit of land extending 
 into the sea, called Diamond Head, and the latter 
 accommodating at its wharves ships of very large tonnage 
 — our steamer, a vessel of 3,200 tons register, being very 
 comfortably berthed. The entrance to the harbour, as 
 in most of the islands in the Pacific, is through a passage 
 in the coral reef that extends round the island of Oahu. 
 These passages through the reefs are supposed to be 
 formed by currents of cold fresh water coming from the 
 land, in which the coral insects that build up these reefs 
 upon submerged portions of the islands cannot exist. 
 
 Honolulu consists of regularly laid out streets, that 
 have, however, more the appearance of wide, rural lanes, 
 from the luxuriance of the vegetation in the gardens, and 
 the number of beautiful trees standing between the 
 houses. It contains some good public buildings, amongst 
 which it is pleasing to see a public library, with 1,500 
 books of reference, and numerous churches. The king's 
 palace is a plain unpretentious building of coral-stone, 
 situated on about an acre of well laid out ground, 
 surrounded by a high wall, at the entrance gate in which 
 
HONOLULU. 
 
 17 
 
 ;oo 
 
 stands a native sentry, in his neat uniform of blue coat 
 and white trousers. Ihere are some good schools in 
 the town, and it is a very interesting sight to see the little 
 Kanaka children trooping off to school, with their books 
 and slates in their hands, and satchels on their backs. 
 There is also a quaint little theatre, situated in a pretty 
 garden ; but there was no performance there on the only 
 evening we were in Honolulu. I was astonished to see, 
 in so small a place, and one where hotel accommoda- 
 tion is so little required, such a fine house as the 
 Hawaiian hotel ; but I afterwards learned that it had 
 been erected by a company formed for the purpose, and 
 subsidized by the Government, in anticipation of the 
 San Francisco and Yokohama mail steamers making 
 Honolulu a place of call. It has now, I hear, been 
 taken over entirely by the Government, and is let to its 
 present manager free of charge, for the purpose of keeping 
 it open. 
 
 In this equable, but enervating climate, where the ther- 
 mometer registers about 80 degrees all the year round, 
 Nature has bounteously placed the means of subsistence, 
 without much labour, within reach of the native 
 population, in the rapid and luxuriant growth of the 
 taro-plant (arum escule?itiim)^ from which the national dish 
 of " poi " is made. The taro-plant is grown in shallow 
 pits, which are kept wet, and, combined with the heat of 
 the climate, act as forcing beds, and cause the plant to 
 
 3 
 
I* r 
 
 I 
 
 i8 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 grow very rapidly. The food is prepared by the succu- 
 lent roots being pounded into a wet pulp, which is 
 allowed to ferment, and is then kneaded with the hands, 
 until it assumes the requisite consistency; when it is 
 packed in calabashes, and is ready for consumption. A 
 taro-pit, twelve feet, square is said to produce sufficient 
 food, to maintain a Kanaka for a whole year. " Poi " is 
 eaten by inserting two fingers into the mess, twisting 
 them round until sufficient adheres to them, and then, by 
 a dexterous turn of the wrist, transferring them to the 
 mouth. The girls only use one finger, with which, how- 
 ever, they manage to make very good play. 
 
 As several of the passengers desired to see the much 
 talked of Pali, a precipice situated in a gorge in the 
 mountains, called the Nuuanu Valley, we formed a party 
 for the purpose of visiting it. Taking a guide with us, 
 and engaging the necessary number of poor looking 
 horses, we started ; — passing on our way through what 
 may be called a suburb of the town, containing many 
 pretty low-roofed houses embowered in luxuriant vegeta- 
 tion, and standing in gardens full of splendid tropical 
 shade trees, such as tree ferns with stems twelve feet 
 high, cocoanut palms with their graceful fronds, bananas, 
 and tamarind trees ; which gave the houses a most 
 refreshing appearance of coolness. Crossing a cultivated 
 plain two miles long, which extends f''om the town to the 
 foot of the mountains, we entered the valley and com- 
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
HONOLULU. 
 
 19 
 
 IS 
 
 » 
 
 menced its ascent. The road, which was very steep, 
 continued for some distance through dense bushwood, 
 by the side of a mountain torrent that rushed impetuously 
 down the valley. The mountains rose on either hand to 
 a great height, and, being covered with green foliage, 
 presented from different points of observation a succes- 
 sion of grand views. After riding for some time, we 
 were, as our guide informed us, at a distance of six miles 
 from Honolulu, but shortly after attained the end of our 
 up-hill journey ; for, coming upon an open space, we 
 saw the great precipice, or Pali, in front of us, and felt 
 ourselves well repaid by the sight for the trouble we had 
 taken in obtaining it. It seemed to us as if, by some 
 great convulsion of nature, half the mountain had been 
 cut away ; for, standing on the top, we had a precipice 
 in front of us, with a sheer descent of 500 feet. The 
 view from here was beautiful : at the base of the precipice 
 lay a forest, beyond which lovely green country, 
 diversified with hills and dales, extended to the coast 
 line ; whilst, out at sea, we could see the breakers on the 
 outer reef, the white of the foam contrasting with the 
 dark blue of the ocean, and presenting altogether a 
 scene of rare beauty, and one not to be soon forgotten. 
 
 Returning to the town, we passed many Kanaka men 
 and women riding furiously — that is, as furiously as their 
 ill-bred hacks would allow them ; and we were told that 
 the natives generally have quite a passion for equestrian 
 
90 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 exercise. We noticed that the women rode astride their 
 horses in the same manner as the men. 
 
 On our arrival in Honokilu we found, to our great 
 regret, that the Zealaiidia was to sail in the course of a 
 couple of hours : so, taking our last meal ashore, at the 
 Hawaiian Hotel, and purchasing a quantity of oranges, 
 bananas, and mangoes, we reluctantly went on board, I 
 may mention that these oranges had a green and unripe 
 appearance, but we found them to be most delicious, 
 consisting of a luscious dark red pulp. 
 
 It seemed as if the departure of the mail-steamer were 
 kept as a gala-day by the inhabitants of Honolulu ; for 
 all the town seemed to have turned out to watch us steam 
 out of the harbour, and we were greeted with many 
 rounds of hearty cheers. We were soon on our course, 
 with the coast of Oahu fading away in the distance, and 
 with nothing left to mark the break in our journey, but a 
 pleasant reminiscence of the agreeable short time we had 
 spent in sunny Honolulu. 
 
 Nothing occurred to break the monotony of the voyage. 
 About noon, on the eighth day out from Oahu, we steamed 
 through the Golden Gate, the entrance to San Francisco 
 Bay — past a fine battery, wlxich commands it with its 
 guns — thus having accomplished the 2,100 miles in seven 
 days and a half. Steaming down the Bay, we were soon 
 alongside the wharf; and before even the gangways were 
 fixed, we were invaded by an army of hotel-touters, who 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 91 
 
 seemed to vie with one another in giving a florid descrip- 
 tion of the particular inducements, in the way of comfort 
 and cost of accommodation, offered by their respective 
 hotels. It was, in fact, necessary to keep a sharp look- 
 out over one's luggage ; for some of these gentry would 
 make a dive at a trunk, and, if not prevented, would 
 carry it ashore. We were, however, soon landed with 
 our i7)ipediinenta ; and then commenced the examination 
 of our luggage by the customs' officers, who made a care- 
 ful search for contraband articles, and we had to sign 
 declarations for even small quantities of tobacco and 
 cigars. After having my luggage passed, I soon found 
 myself installed in comfortable apartments in the Occi- 
 dental Hotel. 
 
 • 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO AND SACRAMENTO CITY. 
 
 Description of the City — History — Streets — Hotels — Public 
 Buildings — Chinese Quarter — Chinese Gambling Houses — 
 Chinese Theatres — High Cost of Commodities — Sunday Obser- 
 vance — Schools — Suburbs — Cliff House — Theatres — Tram Cars 
 — Commerce — Luggage Arrangements — Description of Sacra- 
 mento — Chinese Question. 
 
 San Francisco, the chief city of the State of California, 
 and the New York of the Pacific Coast, is situated at the 
 end of a peninsula thirty miles long and six miles across, 
 which separates San Francisco Bay from the Pacific 
 Ocean. It lies at the foot of high hills, which, in the 
 early days of the city, were cut up by numerous gullies, 
 and the low land at their base was of small extent. Many 
 of these hills have been levelled, the gullies filled up, 
 and the narrow portion of the peninsula widened with 
 land reclaimed from the ocean ; thus there are now paved 
 streets and busy thoroughfares, where once large ships 
 rode at anchor. 
 
 The city is regularly laid out, the streets being straight, 
 broad, and crossing one another at right angles ; the 
 business portion is compactly built, and may be said to 
 cover an area of nine square miles, lying between Tele- 
 graph, Rincon, and Russian Hills. It is substantially built, 
 
 ^l 
 
 1 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 23 
 
 for the greater part, of stone ; but the outskirts are strag- 
 gling, the houses being wide apart, and generally of wood. 
 
 The rapid growth of San Francisco is almost unprece- 
 dented, equalled only by that of Melbourne, Victoria, 
 which owes its rise to the same cause, viz., the gold 
 discoveries. The first house built on the present site of 
 the city was in 1835, when the settlement was called 
 Terba Buena, from a medicinal herb found in the 
 vicinity; this was changed to its present name, San 
 Francisco, in 1847. In 1848, when gold was first dis- 
 covered, the population amounted to 1,000 ; the great 
 immigration from the East then set in, and in 1850 the 
 population had increased to 25,000 ; in i860, to 57,000 ; 
 in 1870, to 150,000; and is now estimated at over 
 175,000 inhabitants. 
 
 In the early days, in consequence of the corrupt ad- 
 ministration of the criminal laws, crimes of open violence 
 were of frequent occurrence, and a regular reign of terror 
 prevailed, until the people formed vigilance committees, 
 whose summary mode of procedure tended materially to 
 abate this state of affairs, and at the present time, life and 
 property are as safe, as in any other American city. I 
 was indeed very much struck with the quiet and orderly 
 state of the city after dark, and the absence of drunken 
 men, who, unfortunately, form such an unpleasant feature 
 in the streets of our own large towns ; although I was 
 assured by old inhabitants that drunkenness prevails to a 
 
I 
 
 r \ 
 
 24 
 
 TRANS- PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 greater extent than in any other American city, and 
 that crimes of violence are much more frequent, in pro- 
 portion to the population, than in New York. All I can 
 say is, that, if such be the case, I did not observe the 
 outward signs of it. 
 
 The principal thoroughfare is Montgomery-street, which, 
 with its fine blocks of buildings, is a very handsome 
 street. It extends at its northern extremity to the top of 
 a hill, too precipitous for carriages to ascend ; but pedes- 
 trians can do so by means of a flight of steps, and from 
 the top a fine view of the city and bay is obtained. 
 Market and Kearney-streets are also fine thoroughfares, 
 and contain many of the best retail establishments. In 
 California-street are the principal banks and brokers' 
 offices ; whilst Front, San some, and Battery-streets form 
 the centre of the wholesale trade of the city. The best 
 private residences are situated in Van Ness Avenue, 
 Pine-street Hill, Bush and Geary-streets. The traflic in 
 some of these streets is very great, and forcibly reminds 
 one of parts of the city of London. 
 
 One of the great features of San Francisco is its 
 enormous hotel accommodation, which would be quite 
 disproportionate to the requirements of the travelling 
 public — great as it is — were it not for the large number of 
 people who prefer this mode of living to having homes of 
 their own. Many San Franciscan ladies are averse to the 
 trouble of housekeeping ; the reason assigned being the 
 
 i 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 25 
 
 I 
 
 s 
 
 -I 
 
 ■J 
 
 
 r 
 
 difficulty they experience in procuring good domestic 
 servants, or " helps," as they are locally called. I think, 
 however, that in addition to this reason, it arises in a 
 great measure from indolence, and also from the fact that, 
 being relieved of the cares of housekeeping, they have so 
 much more time at their disposal, to spend more pleasantly 
 to themselves, in exhibiting their elaborate toilets in the 
 fashionable promenades. A newly-married pair do not 
 think of making for themselves a home of their own : 
 they simply hire a couple of rooms at an hotel or boarding- 
 house, and thus the comforts of home-life are quite 
 unknown to them. Whatever reasons may be assigned 
 for the prevalence of this system, it is radically bad, leads 
 to much immorality, and, under it, children, being de- 
 prived of true home influence, can only grow up fast. 
 The finest of the great hotels is undoubtedly the Palace, 
 a colossal building, seven stories high, with a basement, 
 occupying a whole block bounded by four streets. It is 
 said to contain 1,800 rooms, 270 of which are bath- 
 rooms, can accommodate about 1,300 guests, and is 
 •A i^hout doubt the largest hotel in the world. It is well 
 F .naged, and is a most comfortable house to reside at ; 
 'W*"'.ough its great size, which makes it necessary to have 
 five elevators to convey guests to their apartments on the 
 upper floors, seemed to me a great drawback. Other 
 good hotels are the Grand, the Occidental, and the Lick 
 House. 
 
26 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 San Francisco is very deficient in public buildings, and 
 of the few it possesses none have any pretensions to 
 architectural beauty. There is, however, a new City Hall 
 in course of erection, which will, when completed, be a 
 very fine edifice, surpassed by few in the States. A New 
 Mint is also being built, and will be a great addition 
 to the architecture of the city.' The Merchants' Exchange 
 is a fine building, and some of the banking corporations 
 occupy handsome premises. 
 
 A visit to the J ' Exchange is interesting, to see the 
 bustle and excitei;. it, consequent on the dealing in 
 mining scrip. It is customary for stock in silver mines 
 to be sold by auction, the bidding regulating and fixing 
 the prices of the day. From the number of people 
 present, it seemed to me, that the whole population 
 must, more or less, be interested in this species of gamb- 
 ling — for it is nothing else. The uproar caused by 
 several hundred people all speaking excitedly at the same 
 time completely drowns the monotonous voice of the 
 President, and gives to the whole proceedings the 
 appearance rather of a bear-garden, than of an assem- 
 blage of commercial men meeting together for pur- 
 poses of trade. There are several fine libraries in the 
 city. The Mercantile Library occupies a fine building, 
 containing several spacious reading-rooms, chess-rooms, 
 a gallery of paintings and statuary, and 40,000 volumes. 
 The Oddfellows' Library numbers 25,000; the Mechanics' 
 
 H 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 «7 
 
 IB 
 
 Institute Library, 30,000 ; and the Law Library, 15,000 
 volumes. Thus the San Franciscans are well supplied 
 with food for the mind ; and it must be said to their 
 credit that these different libraries are very well patronized. 
 There are about 20,000 Chinese in San Francisco, and 
 these live densely crowded together in the "Chinese 
 quarter" in a state of filth and squalor indescribable. 
 It seems wonderful, that they do not breed a pestilence, 
 as the corporation does not appear to pay the least 
 attention to the sanitary condition of this part of the city. 
 I joined a party to visit this " quarter," and in a cellar 
 we counted no less than fifteen Chinamen and women, 
 living together like rabbits in a burrow, in a space that 
 would be considered barely sufficient for two Europeans ; 
 and a house was pointed out to us in which we were 
 assured over 2,000 of these people were living. In the 
 opium cellars we saw numbers of men lying in various 
 stages of intoxication, looking haggard and blear-eyed, 
 and showing to what depths of degradation humanity can 
 sink. These cellars are fitted up with shelves, upon 
 which the Chinamen lay in pairs, with boxes for pillows ; 
 one smoking and preparing the opium, while the other 
 lies in a state of semi-unconsciousness. We next visited 
 one of the many gambling-houses in the " quarter," and 
 here, in an atmosphere consisting of dense clouds of 
 tobacco smoke, impregnated with the vilest odours 
 imaginable, we saw a large number of Chinamen, and, to 
 
f, 
 
 L 
 
 28 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 our astonishment, a few whites, sitting round tables 
 engaged in gambling. The latter quietly slunk away at 
 sight of the policeman, who formed one of our party. 
 Their mode of gambling is very simple ; one throws a 
 handful of copper coin on the table, and the others bet 
 whether the number be odd or even. Such inveterate 
 gamblers are the Chinese, that, at this stupid game, they 
 will often, in one night, lose the earnings ot months. 
 
 We now proceeded to one of the two Chinese theatres, 
 but found the performance to be of a very monotonous 
 character. The theatre itself was a low, plain building; 
 the auditorium containing a few chairs, but the audience, 
 for the most part, squatting on their haunches ; the stage 
 about nine feet high, being raised a couple of feet 
 above the ground, and ornamented all over with dirty, 
 faded strips of red and yellow paper, printed with 
 Chinese characters, and lighted by numerous Chinese 
 lanterns. Pieces cf tin, like sardine boxes, were piled 
 one above the other, and with the wings, tails, and heads 
 of birds, were nailed to the wall; whilst a miscellaneous 
 collection of various articles, was hung all round. 
 Amongst these articles may be enumerated old tin-pans, 
 broken chairs, tables without legs, dirty coats and hats, 
 rusty swords, broom handles burned black to represent 
 spears, strips of red and yellow muslin, old boots and 
 shoes, wooden animals painted every colour but the 
 natural one, illustrations of junks with sails set, armies 
 
1^^ 
 
 4 ^ 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 29 
 
 marching, and bulls fighting. The audience sat stolidly, 
 without a smile on their faces, smoking either tobacco or 
 opium; even the women, who occupied a co»npartment by 
 themselves, indulging in this filthy habit. 1 he orchestra 
 sat on the stage, smoking the whole time, and amused the 
 audience and themselves, during the performance, by 
 clashing cymbals, beating gongs, blowing trumpets, and 
 making generally about as unearthly a noise as it is possible 
 to imagine. The performance consisted in several men 
 clad in green, red, and yellow costumes, with feathers 
 sticking out from the back of their necks, wings on their 
 shoulders, and masks representing heads of bulls, horses, 
 and other animals or birds, on their faces; strutting about 
 the stage, gesticulating and shouting at one another. 
 Part of the performance was a mimic representation of a 
 battle, and consisted in several persons rushing on to 
 the stage, turning somersault over the heads of some 
 running on from the other side, and then disappearing ; 
 this was continued ad infinitum^ and finding it to become 
 monotonous, we did not feel inclined to wait and see if it 
 were at all varied. These Chinese plays, we were told, 
 generally are descriptive of the reign of a monarch, and 
 a performance of one extends over many evenings. 
 
 In San Francisco the cost of all commodities is very 
 high, and this in spite of the currency of the State being 
 in gold ; the farther east I proceeded, the cheaper I 
 found the cost of everything to become, although the 
 
1 it 
 
 M 
 
 a 
 
 
 I'll 
 
 30 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 currency was in greenbacks, or a difference in favour of 
 the buyer of from ten to fifteen per cent. 
 
 Owing to the large foreign population, the Sunday is 
 observed in the Continental manner, the shops being 
 open, and the people generally devoting the day to 
 recreation ; at the theatres the best pieces are usually 
 performed on Sunday evening, a good audience always 
 being reckoned upon. 
 
 The public school system of San Francisco is very 
 good, there being a regular attendance of 30,000 children 
 in the different school buildings. The University of 
 California is an important educational institution, at a 
 short distance from Oakland ; and there are, in addition, 
 a School of Design and a Medical College. The 
 charitable institutions are numerous and excellent, and 
 are, generally, very creditable to so young a city. 
 
 Across the bay are the pretty little towns of Oakland, 
 Brookland, Alameda, and Saucelito, which may be 
 regarded as suburbs of San Francisco, with which they 
 are connected by numerous steam-ferries. They all have 
 fine public gardens, and, being well protected from the 
 wind by the hilly nature of the surrounding country, 
 the climate is more equable than at San Francisco, 
 where hot days are succeeded by cold nights. On this 
 account, and also that the vicinity is far prettier than the 
 sandy desert about San Francisco, many of the 
 merchants have their residences there. 
 
 -It 
 
 i 
 
 
 -im mii. 'm ar 'm'^ 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 31 
 
 »v t 
 
 The chief point of interest in the vicinity of the city 
 is the Chff House, an hotel and restaurant crowning the 
 edge of precipitous cliffs rising abruptly out of the 
 ocean. It is distant about six miles from the city, and 
 is reached by a fine drive; crowded, especially on 
 Saturday afternoons, by vehicles of all descriptions. 
 The number of high-stepping trotting horses attached to 
 light buggies, whose drivers seem continually to aim at 
 passing everything on the road — thus occasioning many 
 impromptu races — gives this drive a very gay and 
 animated appearance. In front of the hotel, are the Seal 
 Rocks, so called from being always covered with large 
 numbers of seals basking in the sun, and barking like 
 dogs, and others disporting themselves in their native 
 element. The view, from the broad piazza of this hotel, 
 is very fine ; and the Golden Gate, the entrance to San 
 Francisco Bay, can be seen from it to great advantage. 
 
 The only public recreation ground is Golden Gate 
 Park, which covers a large area ; but, as yet, little has 
 been done towards beautifying it. There are several 
 squares in the city, though mostly in a neglected condi- 
 tion ; the only exception being in the case of Portsmouth 
 Square, which is well laid out, and surrounded by a 
 handsome iron railing. Lone Mountain Cemetery is 
 very beautiful, and contains some fine monuments ; in it 
 is a peculiar conical-shaped mountain, standing by itself 
 in tolerably level country — whence its name, Lone Moun- 
 
l\ 
 
 32 
 
 TRAN3-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
 tain. Its summit is surmounted by a large wooden 
 cross, and mountain and cross form a very prominent 
 landmark, and from its top a magnificent panorama is 
 presented of the city, bay, and surrounding country. 
 
 San Francisco contains no less than six large theatres, 
 the principal of which are the California Theatre, 
 Maguire's Opera House, Wade's Opera House, and 
 Baldwin's Academy of Music — all very fine houses, the 
 latter especially being a perfect little bijou of a theatre, 
 at which opera bouffe is generally performed. The 
 arrangement of the auditorium is the same as in conti- 
 nental theatres, and this I found to be general through- 
 out America ; the space that with us is used for stalls 
 and pit being made into orchestra seats, reserved and 
 unreserved — the latter being in front and the former at 
 the rear, raised and separated by a barrier from the 
 Ui reserved part. The price of admission is $1 to the 
 unreserved seats, and $1,500. to the reserved — being the 
 same as to the dress circle. 
 
 Communication with the different parts of the city is 
 effected, at small cost, by means of the splendid tram- 
 car system, double tracks ' eing laid down through every 
 street. This is certainly the most pleasant mode of 
 locomotion, for the roadways are paved with stones, and 
 the jolting in ordinary vehicles is very great. 
 
 The commerce of San Francisco is very extensive, it 
 being the great port of shipment for the whole of the 
 
 If 
 
LUGGAGE ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 33 
 
 Pacific coast, its imports consist principally of tea, 
 coffee, sugar, rice, and coal ; its exports of gold, silver, 
 wool, grain, and wine. The exports of the precious 
 metals alone, in 1874, amounted to ^6,000,000. It is 
 also the centre of numerous industries, none of which, 
 however, are as yet very extensive 
 
 After spending a very pleasant time in San Francisco, 
 I proceeded on my long journey East, and took the ferry- 
 boat for Oakland, where the station, or, in American 
 phraseology, the "depot," of the Central Pacific Railroad 
 is situated. We were here landed at a pier, extending 
 two miles and a half into the Bay, where we were trans- 
 ferred into the railway cars and started for Sacramento, 
 where I intended to break the journey. It may be men- 
 tioned that I found the luggage, or, as it is universally 
 called in America, "baggage" arrangements, excellent. 
 The trunks I did not require on the journey, I sent through 
 to New York, receiving in lieu of them brass "checks," 
 on presentation of which, and payment of a small charge 
 for storage, they were delivered to me, on my arrival in 
 that city. I took with me only what I should require on 
 the journey, and in the same manner received checks for 
 each package. Approaching a large town, an official 
 walked through the cars ; and, if I intended stopping, I 
 gave him my checks, and the name of the hotel at which 
 I was going to stay, receiving a printed receipt in return. 
 I then walked empty-handed to the hotel, if it were close 
 
 4 
 
34 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 !• 
 
 at hand, or proceeded thither by the cars, if at some 
 distance; thus saving the great expense of a hackney 
 coach. Leaving the receipts with the clerk in the office, 
 I generally found my luggage deposited in my room 
 within half-an-hour after my arrival. 
 
 The road from San Francisco to Sacramento traverses 
 the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, 
 through highly cultivated country ; and passes numerous 
 picturesquely-situated farms, and homesteads. 
 
 Sacramento, the political capital of the " Golden State," 
 is a pretty place, containing about 50,000 inhabitants. 
 It is situated at the head of navigation on the Sacramento 
 River, near its confluence with the great American river ; 
 and is distant about 125 miles from the Pacific. It vf 
 much resembles a large colonial up-country town, and 
 the seat of some rather extensive manufactures. It is a 
 thriving and busy place, and, during the sessions of the 
 State Legislature, swarms with numbers of political agents 
 and hangers-on. The Capitol, or State House, is a noble 
 building, in the Corinthian style of architecture, sur- 
 mounted by a grand cupola, which renders it a very con- 
 spicuous object, from every point of the surrounding 
 plains. It is, unquestionably, one of the finest edifices 
 in the United States. 
 
 Sacramento is the centre of a large railway system, and 
 from it, lines radiate to all parts of the State ; hence it 
 seems likely in time, to become a large and important 
 
 r 
 
SACRAMENTO. 
 
 35 
 
 city. The streets are broad and well paved, and lined 
 with trees, which form an agreeable shade in summer. 
 The houses are generally built of brick, and have a sub- 
 stantial and pleasing look ; whilst the recent erections are 
 really handsome in appearance. 
 
 At the time of my visit the people were much exercised 
 in their minds about the Chinese immigration ; and a 
 petition to Congress was being got up, praying that steps 
 might be taken to modify it. It appears that these 
 immigrants from the Flowery Land are brought out — 
 under the auspices of six Chinese companies, at San 
 Francisco — under some arrangement as to labour and 
 earnings, that tends to muke the immigration very 
 profitable to the companies; whose powers in this 
 respect, would seem to be unlimited. The conse- 
 quence is, that such numbers of Celestials are arriving 
 in the country — there being already in San Francisco 
 alone 20,000, equal to more than one-tenth of the 
 whole population of that city — that the people are 
 beginning to bestir themselves in the matter. They 
 complain that the Chinese do not adopt the habits of 
 the country, but live densely crowded together in their 
 own quarters, where they become dangerous to the 
 public health ; that the gambling propensities of the 
 men, and the prostitution of the women, are demoralizing 
 in the extreme, more especially to the younger genera- 
 tion ; and that, requiring as they do, so little for their 
 
 j 
 
■■<' 
 
 111 
 
 m 
 
 : t 
 
 ';*^ 
 
 i M 
 
 ! 
 
 'if 
 
 36 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 maintenance, they do not compete on equal terms with 
 Europeans, and, consequently, lower the rate of wages, 
 and even monopolize certain trades. There is certainly 
 a great deal of truth in these statements, quite sufficient 
 for Congress to take the matter into consideration, and 
 do something either to limit the immigration, or other- 
 wise modify its pernicious effects. 
 
 Should this not be done, there will undoubtedly be a 
 war of races ; and I " guess," Brother Jonathan, in spite 
 of his constant mouthing about republican equality, will 
 be very likely to " improve" his almond-eyed visitors off 
 the face of the earth. 
 
 The Chinese themselves are afraid of this eventuality, 
 and not long ago, in consequence of a rumour, of a rising 
 against them, they purchased all the arms they could, in 
 San Francisco, and stood on their defence. 
 
 I 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CROSSING THE SIERRAS— SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 vSleeping Cars — Snow Sheds — Trestle Bridges — Shoshone Indians 
 — Great American Desert — Ogden — Wahsatch Mountains — 
 Salt Lake — Salt Lake City — Tabernacle — Territory of Utah — 
 The Mormons — Their Religion — Their Account of its Origin 
 — Gentile Account — Church Government — History — Service at 
 the Tabernacle — Notes on Mormonism. 
 
 I LEFT Sacramento by the Central Pacific Railroad, for 
 Ogden, the terminus of that Company's section. This 
 journey occupies two days and nights, and would be 
 almost insupportable, were it not for the convenience of 
 the sleeping cars, which are most comfortable, and, being 
 well warmed by means of stoves, tend to render 
 endurable, at least, a trip that would otherwise be very 
 cold and monotonous. Owing to an accident on the line, 
 we were delayed some six hours. It is a pity that the 
 refreshment car, at one time attached to each train, has 
 been discontinued, as it now necessitates the passengers 
 getting out at each station, where the train stops for 
 refreshments. 
 
 Directly after leaving Sacramento, we commenced the 
 ascent of the Sierra Nevada, or Snowy Range, that great 
 tract of mountain country that forms the barrier between 
 
 
 1 :!' 
 

 38 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 HI :, 
 
 ill ill 
 
 \\\: 
 
 m 
 
 
 N 
 
 i 
 
 the Pacific, and the Eastern States. The route lay, for 
 some time, through well-cultivated country ; until we 
 arrived at Colfax, a neat and thriving little place, con- 
 taining about a thousand inhabitants ; where we attained 
 an elevation of 2,400 feet, having ascended to that height 
 in a distance of fifty miles. From Colfax we continued 
 our up-hill progress, and shortly passed along the very edge 
 of a tremendous chasm, 2,500 feet deep, and rounded a 
 bold promontory, called Cape Horn. The scenery here 
 is most grand and imposing, and continued so, until we 
 attained Summit Station, the highest point on the line, at 
 an altitude of 7,000 feet above the sea-level. We had 
 thus ascended 4,600 feet in the last fifty miles ; although 
 we were not at the highest point of the Sierra Nevada 
 range, but only the elevation of the mountain-pass, which 
 the railroad closely follows. One cannot but appreciate, 
 the energy displayed in the construction of this section 
 of the line, which is carried along the edge of precipices 
 2,000 and 3,000 fcrt deep ; and in places on narrow 
 ledges, which had to be excavated from the mountain side, 
 by men suspended from the top in baskets. Between 
 Colfax and Summit Stations, we passed the Great 
 American Canon, — one of the grandest ravines in the 
 Sierra Nevada. The sides of this ravine stand like two 
 great perpendicular walls, each 2,000 feet high ; and 
 between them a river dashes impetuously onward, boiling 
 and seething, as though in a cauldron. During our ascent 
 
CROSSING THE SIERRAS. 
 
 39 
 
 a heavy snowstorm was raging; but, thanks to our well- 
 warmed cars, we could sit at our ease, and look out upon 
 the wild and weird scenery. 
 
 Shortly before arriving, and after leaving Summit 
 Station, we commenced to enter a succession of snow- 
 sheds, erected to guard the line from avalanches of snow. 
 These sheds — or, more correctly speaking, long wooden 
 tunnels — are solid structures, completely covering 
 the road for many miles, the longest of them measuring 
 1,70c ieet, and forming a great obstruction to the view. 
 We crossed the numerous gullies in the mountains on 
 trestle-bridges, the frail appearance of which, at first, 
 caused me some trepidation. They are only constructed 
 wide enough, to allow of a single line of rail being laid, 
 which rests upon open timbers; and crossing them is 
 certainly quite a novel sensation, and one not unmixed 
 with fear; for, looking out of the car windows, one does 
 not see the track, and the train ajjpears to be speeding 
 through the air, with perhaps a deep ravine and mountain 
 torrent 100 feet below. 
 
 The appearance of the Sierra generally, is that of a 
 snow-covered country, with the various summits po' ping 
 out, like so many white mounds, covered with brai.ching 
 pine trees, and diversified with foaming mountain 
 torrents. 
 
 We now commenced to descend, the track evidently 
 following the contour of the mountains ; for we seemed 
 
hr 
 
 40 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 to wind round them in a very tortuous manner. At one 
 time we would be whirling round the precipitous flank of 
 a mountain, the track being suspended seemingly in the 
 air ; at another, skirting the brink of a precipice, the 
 torrent washing its base, appearing to us like a silver 
 thread. 
 
 After passing through most romantic scenery, we 
 reached Truckee, a collection of wooden shanties, digni- 
 fied with the appellation of " City," and dependent solely 
 upon the lumber trade. 
 
 Truckee is at an elevation of 5,850 feet, contains 
 about 2,000 inhabitants, and is situated on the river 
 Truckee, in the midst of country heavily timbered with 
 pine trees. 
 
 Continuing our course at the same high altitude, the 
 next interesting place reached by us was Battle Mount, 
 so called, from a sanguinary encounter, that here took 
 place between the Indians, and the white settlers. Here 
 we saw some of the Shoshone Indians, the original 
 inhabitants of this part of the country, who, with their 
 faces painted red, and their coarse black hair hanging 
 down their shoulders, looked a very low type of 
 humanity. The squaws, who be.ugcd money of us, 
 doubtless for the purpose of spending in " fire-water," 
 carried their pappooses in blankets slung across their 
 backs. For the benefit of those who do not know what 
 a pappoose is, I will briefly explain. A pappoose is an 
 
 * 
 t 
 
M«MMI 
 
 CROSSING THE SIERRAS. 
 
 41 
 
 le 
 
 Df 
 
 le 
 
 le 
 
 Indian baby, strapped on a board about five feet in 
 length, leather and skins of animals being nailed to it 
 in such wise, that it resembles a huge slipper. The baby 
 is swathed from chin to foot, its hands even being tied 
 down ; so that nothing is visible of the living mummy 
 but the head, which is protected by a little hood of 
 wicker work, adorned with beads, feathers, and coloured 
 rags. The whole apparatus is generally carried on the 
 maternal head. 
 
 After passing Battle Mount, we traversed high plains, 
 destitute of vegetation, except the everlasting sage-bush, 
 and in places, the Iclrge deposits of alkali, prevented even 
 the growth of this hardy plant. This uninteresting tract 
 of country continued until we entered the Twelve-Mile 
 Canon, or Palisade. In this deep rocky ravine the 
 bleak, broken cliffs tower on either side, whilst beneath 
 us rolled the river, dashing up its spray as in a very 
 frenzy, and filling the air with its sound. One of the 
 most remarkable features of this canon is a perpendicular 
 mass of rock, 1,500 feet high, called the Devil's Peak. 
 We now approached Elko, and, striking the south fork of 
 the Humboldt River, we passed through a valley, the 
 slopes of which were dotted with the farms of the 
 settlers. Elko is a "city" of some 3,000 inhabitants, 
 of rising importance, being the point where the road to 
 the White Pine mining district branches off. Here we 
 could see teams of mules, laden with goods, ready to start. 
 
42 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 IV i^ 
 
 or already on their way to Hamilton, and Treasure City, in 
 that district. Elko is laid out in streets, and contains 
 many stores and other buildings of a substantial character. 
 
 Leaving Elko, we soon reached the comparatively 
 cultivaced country about Toano, a small place dependent 
 upon the mines of Eastern Nevada. This district con- 
 tains the Sink of the Humboldt, a large sheet of water 
 into which the Humboldt River, after its course of 300 
 miles, empties itself, but which has no outlet. 
 
 We now entered upon the Great American Desert, and 
 the journey became very monotonous ; nothing to be 
 seen, as far as the eye could reach, but a dreary plain, 
 shut in by mountains, and covered with a dry kind of 
 bush, about four inches high. This plain is sixty miles 
 long, and as many wide; and does not bear a living 
 creature on its surface excepting lizards and a small 
 animal called a jackass-rabbit. It is supposed by 
 geologists to have been, at one time, the bed of a large 
 inland sea. It is so thickly crusted with alkaline dust, 
 that, from a distance, it looks as if it were covered with 
 snow. This alkali burns the boots like lime, and the 
 infinitesimal particles, floating in the air, irritate the 
 throat and lungs. Altogether, we were very pleased to 
 get out of it, and it was with a feeling of thankfulness we 
 left it behind us. 
 
 After passing Corinne, the only little town in the 
 territory of Utah, essentially Gentile, we arrived at 
 
 I 
 
THE GREAT SALT LAKE. 
 
 43 
 
 ! t 
 
 Brigham City, a Mormon settlement, which is surrounded 
 by fruit trees, and bears a close resemblance to an 
 English hamlet. 
 
 We now approached the Great Salt Lake— the 
 American Dead Sea — and after skirting it ^or some time, 
 came upon the cultivated country about Ogden, a clean 
 little Mormon town of about 6,000 inhabitants, possessing 
 a Tabernacle. At Ogden I took the cars of the Utah 
 Central Railway Company, which at this place forms a 
 junction with the Central Pacific line, and arrived at Salt 
 Lake City in two hours' time ; the journey being down a 
 steep gradient, where, steam being shut off, the train pro- 
 ceeded at a great rate, by its own momentum only. I had 
 expected to find a mild genial climate in Salt Lake City, 
 arriving, as I did, in the middle of May, but was disap- 
 pointed, as the whole country was still covered with snow. 
 
 The city is built at the foot of the Wahsatch Moun- 
 tains, which were covered with snow from the summits 
 to the base, and looked very imposing, seeming, as they 
 did, to lift their white-capped tops right into the clouds. 
 A storm in these mountains, witnessed from the city, is a 
 grand sight. Two peaks or summits, called the Twin 
 Peaks, distant about 15 miles south-easterly, are 11,000 
 feet high, and have never been free from snow since the 
 settlement in this valley. 
 
 Salt Lake, that veritable Dead Sea, is 120 miles long, 
 by about 45 miles broad, and contains seven islands. 
 
44 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 i I 
 
 Its waters are so salt that nothing can live in them, and 
 the fish that find their way down the rivers Jordan, and 
 Weber, are soon killed. It is said, that enough salt to 
 supply the whole world, could be obtained by evaporation. 
 I took a sail on the lake, but found its banks destitute of 
 vegetation, and its dreary, barren, appearance uninviting. 
 The rivers Jordan and Weber empty themselves into the 
 lake, but there is no outlet ; and the waters are said to 
 have risen some lo feet since 1850. A peculiar feature 
 of Salt Lake is two rocks : one, a great mass, rising 
 abruptly out of the water, and standing black and 
 desolate, called Black Rock ; the other, overhanging the 
 margin, and bearing an indistinct resemblance to a human 
 face, is called Profile Rock. 
 
 Salt Lake City is situated at the foot of the Wahsatch 
 Mountains, on a plain that has, by indomitable perseve- 
 rance and toil, been converted from a wilderness, 
 impregnated with alkali, and productive only of sage- 
 bush, into a smiling agricultural country, dotted over with 
 the farms, or, as they are here called, the " ranches " of 
 the settlers. 
 
 A slight description of this most remarkable city may 
 not be out of place, before I proceed to give an account 
 of the people who inhabit it, and of the territory in which 
 it is situated. 
 
 Salt Lake City is regularly laid out in the form of the 
 letter L ; the larger portion stretching east and west, and 
 
 « 
 
 m 1 
 
SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 45 
 
 the shorter north and south. The streets— as is usual in 
 all new American towns —are wide, cross one another at 
 right angles, and follow the cardinal points of the com- 
 pass ; but they possess an unique appearance, as they have 
 brooks of clear water flowing down either side, and 
 watering the roots of trees, planted so, as to cast a pleasant 
 shade over the pathway. These shade-trees, bordering 
 every thoroughfare, and the numerous orchards in, and 
 around the city, give it the appearance of being em- 
 bowered in foliage — very refreshing to the eye in the hot 
 season. The city is laid out in square blocks of ten 
 acres each, covers a space of about nine square miles, 
 and contains a population of some 25,000 inhabitants ; 
 20,000 of whom are Mormons, and the remainder 
 Gentiles — as all are called who do not profess the faith 
 of Mormon. 
 
 Prominent amongst the principal buildings is the 
 Tabernacle, an oval building, 250 feet long, by 150 feet 
 wide, and 80 feet high, built on stone pillars 20 feet high, 
 the roof being a lattice-work of red pine, unsupported by 
 a single column. From its peculiar form it is a promi- 
 nent feature in the city, and can be recognized from 
 every part of it, by its egg-shaped, dome-like roof. It 
 has a gallery running round three sides of the building, and 
 will seat from 10,000 to 12,000 people. The acoustic 
 properties are splendid ; and it would form a good model 
 on which to build music and lecture halls. A person 
 
r'l li 
 
 ! 
 
 P 
 
 '-] . 
 
 H 
 
 : li: .(J 
 
 1 
 
 46 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 speaking in his usual tone of voice, can be heard all over 
 the large building. It possesses the third largest organ 
 in the United States, the tone of which is very fine ; and 
 it is noteworthy, that this organ, with its front towers 58 
 feet high and its gilded pipes 38 feet long, was entirely 
 built in the city. 
 
 The other principal edifices are the Courthouse, the 
 University, the City Hall, and the Theatre. The new 
 Temple, now in course of erection, is intended to be on 
 a colossal scale ; it has been many years in building, and 
 will not be completed for many years to come. It forms 
 the centre of the hopes of the many thousand devotees 
 of Mormonism, who seem to regard its erection as an 
 article of faith. It is to be devoted to such preliminary 
 rites and ceremonies as baptisms, washings, anointings, 
 etc. 
 
 The Territory of Utah, of which Salt Lake City is the 
 capital, contains a population of 86,605 ; of whom 
 about 60,000 may be Mormons, the remainder being, for 
 the most part, miners attracted by the great mineral 
 wealth of the Territory — rich veins of gold, silver, iron, 
 and other metals having been discovered. 
 
 By the last census, it is seen that the males exceed 
 the females by 1,277 ; but it must be borne in mind that, 
 in ordinary cases, in newly settled countries, the males 
 much more largely outnumber the females. The returns 
 for Salt Lake City also show how largely the " peculiar 
 
 t - 
 
 
UTAH. 
 
 47 
 
 institution" of the Mormons is sustained by the foreign 
 portion of the community. The native-born population 
 number 10,236, and the males exceed the females by 78; 
 the foreign-born population are 7,010 in number, and 
 the females exceed the males by 686. Thus, in the 
 native population of Salt Lake City, the proportion is 50 
 females to 51 males; and in the foreign, 38 females to 
 31 males. If children, who are probably in about equal 
 proportions, be excepted, the excess of women over 
 men becomes more marked. 
 
 Utah, thirty years ago a desert, is now a land of 
 industry and wealth ; its soil teeming with riches, and 
 supporting a large population, who enjoy in peace, the 
 products of their labour. Prosperous little towns, and 
 villages, extend over a distance of 500 miles; and 220 
 schools provide for the mental cultivation, of the rising 
 generation. 
 
 Utah, like other territories in the Union, returns one 
 member to Congress, who has the privilege of taking 
 part in a debate, but not the power of voting. It con- 
 tains thirty incorporated towns ; and the government is 
 vested in a Governor, chosen by the President of the 
 United States, a Council of thirteen members, and a 
 House of Representatives of twenty-six members, both 
 being elected for two years, and the sessions being 
 biennial. Copies of all laws passed by the Assembly, 
 and signed by the Governor, are forwarded to the 
 
■'W 
 
 48 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 J i. 4 
 
 m 
 
 ■ • 
 
 ^1: 
 
 presiding officers of both Houses of Congress : and if 
 disapproved by tliat l)ody, become null and void. The 
 Governor is elected for four years ; and Brigham Young, 
 President of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day 
 Saints, once occupied the position. The United States 
 maintain a garrison of 1,700 men, at a distance of three 
 miles from the city, at a remarkably picturesque place, 
 called Camp Douglas. 
 
 The judicial power of the Territory consists of a 
 Supreme Court, District, and i^robate Courts, and Justices 
 of the Peace. The Supreme Court is presided over by 
 the Chief Justice and two associate Judges, all appointed 
 by the President of the United States. The Territory 
 is divided into three districts, one of the Judges of the 
 Supreme Court being allotted to each as District Judge. 
 Justices of the peace have no jurisdiction in cases 
 involving sums of over $100, or in questions of boun- 
 daries, or titles of land. A Probate Judge is elected for 
 each county, by the Legislative Assembly. He holds 
 office for four years, and has civil, criminal, and surrogate 
 jurisdiction in cases arising in the county. Appeals may 
 be taken from the Probate to the District Court, and 
 thence to the Supreme Court. Each county elects in 
 addition, for three years, three select men, who, with the 
 Probate Judge, form a County Court, whose business is 
 to divide the county into precincts or municipalities, 
 school districts, roads, boundaries of irrigation districts, 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 : 
 
 t^H^ 
 
,l1 
 
 THE MORNU)NS. 
 
 49 
 
 to levy taxes for the erection and maintenance of county 
 buildings, and provide for pounds for stray cattle, &c. 
 It has been attempted to get the Territory of Utah incor- 
 porated as a State in the Union, under the name of the 
 " State of Deseret," but polygamy stands in the way. 
 
 Socially, the people are hard working and industrious, 
 as is proved by the fact that the first pioneers arrived in 
 these vallies in 1 847, and they have, in thirty years, 
 transformed what was then a barren desert into a pro- 
 ductive country, giving homes to thousands. They were 
 certainly fortunate in their choice of country; for, although 
 the soil, impregnated as it was with alkali, did not yield 
 much for the first few years, yet, after being turned over 
 several times, this very alkali in the soil served as an 
 element of richness. The early settlers, too, when the 
 gold discoveries in California took place, were right in the 
 track of the miners and others travelling overland to the 
 El Dorado, and reaped great profit out of them. 
 
 They profess the faith of Mormon, as revealed to their 
 Prophet, Joseph Smith, under the style of the " Church of 
 Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints." The following is the 
 Mormon account of the origin of their belief : — Joseph 
 Smith, the founder, was born at Sharon, Vermont, in 
 1805 ; he was an early seeker after knowledge, and was 
 rewarded by having a vision. In this vision he saw two 
 Celestial Beings — the Father and tlie Son — v ao took the 
 trouble to inform him, that all existing Faiths were 
 
 5 
 
 ' ff_ 
 
 li 
 
 
ill 
 
 'IRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 m 
 
 I 
 
 111 I 
 
 \i I 
 
 i S 
 
 incorrect ; that the Covenant once made with Is.ael was 
 near fulfilment ; and that he had been chosen the 
 instrument to prepare the people for the second advent 
 of the Saviour — the millennium being close at hand. At 
 a later period he had another vision ; this time seeing 
 the Angel Moroni, who delivered to him a series of 
 metal plates, of the appearance of sold, eight inches 
 long and six inches wide, bound together like the leaves 
 of a book by three rings ; thus forming a volume six 
 inches thick, written in Egyptian characters. He 
 received at the same time the Urim and Thumim, two 
 transparent stones, set in the two rims of a bow, and 
 used in the same manner as spectacles. By the help of 
 these he translated the records, and learned that the 
 American continent was first colonized by a people who 
 came from the Tower of Babel, after the confusion of 
 tongues, who were called Jaredites ; and also by a colony 
 direct from Jerusalem, about six centuries r..c. ; these 
 latter being Israelites, the descendants of Joseph. He 
 also learned that the Saviour appeared in America after 
 His Resurrection; that He planted there the Gospel in 
 all its fulness; that there were Apostles, Prophets, 
 Pastors, Teachers, and Evangelists, and the same ordi- 
 nances were enjoyed as in the Eastern Hemisphere ; that 
 the people were cut otf because of their great trans- 
 gressions ; and that their last prophets were commanded 
 to write on metal platec an abridgment of their pro- 
 
i^SlSssBi: 
 
 fy<|--a->-.<ui^-^'j-^' 
 
 THE ^rOR.MONS. 
 
 51 
 
 m 
 
 phecles, history, &c., and to liide them in the earth, 
 until such time as they should be brought forth and be 
 united to the Bible, for the accompUshment of God's 
 purposes in the latter days. The records proceeded to 
 tell how the Jaredites were destroyed about the time the 
 Israelites arrived in the country ; and how the latter 
 became divided iato two nations, the Nephites, or 
 followers of Nephi, the inspired writer of the metal 
 plates ; and the Lamanites, or unbelievers, who, for their 
 sins, were condemned to have red skins, and to become 
 " an idle people, full of mischief and subtlety," and whose 
 descendants are the present American Indians. How 
 the Nephites fell in b.attle against the Lamanites, towards 
 the close of the fourth century, and how they buried the 
 plates, as instructed, at JNIount Cumorah, where they 
 made their final unsuccessful stand. The translation of 
 these records, made by Joseph Smith, forms the Book of 
 Mormon, or Golden Bible, as it was at first called, up on 
 which is founded modern Mormonism. 
 
 This Mormon account of the foundation of the belief 
 might have remained unquestioned had that farrago of 
 ancient Jewish ceremonies, grafted upon a spurious kind 
 of Christianity, called Mormonism, remained within its 
 original limits, especially as its professors were a harmless, 
 hard-working class, and the Book of Mormon inculcated 
 morality and specially prohibited polygamy. But as the 
 numbers of converts increased, so the Revelation of 
 
 .J 
 
If; 
 
 iii 
 
 ft ; 
 
 u 
 
 I! i 
 
 II ! \ 
 
 52 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 it 
 
 Celestial Marriage was introduced ; and its debasing 
 effects converted the members of the new sect into law- 
 breakers, and made them a cancer and sore in the heart 
 of the civilized communities amongst which they dwelt, 
 and thus awakened that feeling of animosity and open 
 hostility against which they have had to contend. 
 
 In juxtaposition, therefore, to the Mormon account 
 given above, I will place the Gentile version, as proved 
 by researches made. The Smith family is said, in the 
 sworn testimony of sixty of the most respectable citizens 
 of Wayne County, to have been " false, immoral, and 
 fraudulent," and Joseph, " the worst of the whole." 
 Whatever value may attach to this sworn testimony, 
 Joseph Smith, on the showing of Orson Pratt, the Mormon 
 Bishop, led a most dissolute and disreputable life. To 
 distinguish, however, whether he was a religious enthu- 
 siast or an impostor, it is necessary to examine the 
 Gentile version of the episode connected with the finding 
 and translation of the Book of Mormon. It is to the 
 effect that Solomon Spaulding, born at Ashford, Con- 
 necticut, in 1 761, a graduate of Dartmouth College, who 
 had formerly been a minister of religion, but who after- 
 wards went into trade and became insolvent, wrote a 
 religious novel, entitled " The Manuscript Found," based 
 upon the theory then prevalent that the Indians were 
 the descendants of the ten lost tribes of Israel ; and that 
 to this production Smith was indebted for his Book of 
 
1 
 
 THE MORMONS. 
 
 53 
 
 Mormon. The evidences in favour of such being the 
 case are very strong, the plot and characters being the 
 same in both ; the difference between them being only 
 the addition in Smith's book of some ungrammatical 
 religious matter. The leading characters in both are 
 Mormon and his son Moroni, l^ehi, Nephi, and the 
 Lamanites. It was only in the latter end of the year 
 1827 that Smith professed to have received the j)lates, 
 and as early as 1813 "The Manuscript Found" was 
 advertised in the papers as shortly forthcoming, " witli a 
 full account of the Book of Mormon." In 181 2, it had 
 been placed in the hands of a Mr. Patterson, a printer, in 
 Pittsburg; but before any arrangements could be made 
 for its publication Spaulding died, the MSS. remaining 
 in Patterson's possession. It is supposed that a copy 
 -was made, or the original MSS. stolen, by one Sidney 
 Rigdon, a compositor in Patterson's office, who afterwards 
 joined the Mormons and became a prominent man 
 amongst them. 
 
 Smith's mode of procedure, when translating the 
 ^' plates," was certainly suspicious. A blanket was sus- 
 pended across the room, to conceal the sacred records 
 from profane and prying eyes, and, sitting behind this 
 screen, by the help of the spectacles before mentioned, 
 he dictated to Oliver Cowderoy, his coadjutor, the sup- 
 posititious translation. The work, when completed, 
 before publication, required corroboration, and three 
 
 71 
 
 HI 
 
 H 
 

 'It ■ 
 
 •I 
 
 i . 
 
 
 54 
 
 TRANS-PACiriC SKETCHES. 
 
 witnesses were accordingly " raised up " in the persons 
 of Oliver Cowderoy, David Whitmer, and Martin Harris 
 — all of whom afterwards quarrelled with Smith, and, in 
 consequence, apostatized, when they denied the genuine- 
 ness of the records. Eight other witnesses were after- 
 wards found, who made declarations that they had seen 
 and handled the metal plates translated by Smith. All 
 these eight persons, however, belonged to two families 
 only, and three of them were the father and two brothers 
 of Smith. With these exceptions, no person, either 
 Mormon or Gentile, has seen these records, and all 
 knowledge of them is quite traditional. No sooner was 
 the Book of Mormon published than the widow and 
 brother of Spaulding identified it with the novel of " The 
 Manuscript Found ;" and several others, who had heard 
 portions read, did the same. All these facts tend to 
 prove that the whole was a fraud on the part of Smith, 
 for the purposes, it is to be presumed, of gain and 
 notoriety. 
 
 Finding it necessary to confirm his power on a sure 
 basis, and to form a proper church government for the 
 increased numbers of the new sect. Smith declared that 
 the Saviour, Moses, Elias, and Elijah had appeared to 
 himself and Cowderoy, and had delivered into their 
 hands the keys of the various priesthoods, and unlimited 
 spiritual and temporal power; and that from St. John 
 the Baptist they had received the powers of baptism. 
 
 1 
 
 
yatBgiaaMEKS^a'-iJ^a. , :::.: :, :. , ^^^.«,^„ 
 
 IHE MORMONS, 
 
 55 
 
 rni 
 
 In conseciucp.re. tliC pure priesthoods, IMclcluzeciek and 
 Levitical — which had existed in their purity in the time 
 of Moses, and which, after degeneration, had been 
 revived by Clirist in the persons of the A])0stles — were 
 again to be resuscitated in their most perfect form by 
 Smith, with the assistance of these later revelations. 
 
 The church government, gradually built up after the 
 receipt of these powers, was divided into the two 
 branches — Melcliizedek and Levitical — as enjoined, the 
 latter presided over by the Bishop, and is at the 
 present time vested in the following ofricers : — the Presi- 
 dent of the Church, who is assisted in his deliberations 
 by two councillors, also called Presidents ; the Patriarch, 
 who is the second officer in point of dignity ; the twelve 
 Apostles, called the Council of Twelve, whose duties are 
 to ordain all elders, priests, teachers, and deacons, and 
 to baptize and administer the sacrament ; the Quorum of 
 Seventy, who are under the direction of the " twelve," 
 and who form the missionaries and preachers of the sect; 
 the High Priests, who are men advanced in years, and 
 who officiate in tlie offices of the church, in the absence 
 of the higher authorities ; the elders, who preside at 
 •meetings, and exercise a general supervision over the 
 priests ; the teachers, who are assistants to the priests ; 
 and the deacon^, who act as church collectors, and per- 
 form minor offices. The Council of Twelve, the Quorum 
 of Seventy, the Patriarch. High Priests, and elders, 
 
 M 
 
 'i 
 
 s- 
 
 ;' 
 
p 
 
 p^ 
 
 \ I 
 
 ; i 
 
 56 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 belong to the Melchizedek order ; the Bishop, priests, 
 teachers, and deacons, to the Levitical. The duties of 
 the latter order are to attend to the work of the Temple, 
 and its members are chosen from the " lineal descendants 
 of Aaron," who are pointed out by special revelation. 
 
 Every lay member of the community pays, either in 
 money or kind, a tithing, for the receipt of which a 
 public office in the President's house is set aside ; and, 
 as this is a heavy tax upon the farmers— the principal 
 producing class — and no proper accounts of expenditure 
 are kept, a great unwillingness to pay the tithe is mani- 
 festing itself, and both pulpit and press continually call 
 attention to the fact. 
 
 As is natural, from the peculiar tenets held by the 
 Mormons, they have encountered much hostility. They 
 were driven from Palmyra, in New York State, where the 
 belief was first founded by Smith ; when they migrated to 
 Kirtland, in Ohio. Here, also, they were not long per- 
 mitted to remain, and they then proceeded to the State 
 of Illinois, settling near the town of Commerce, which 
 they called Nauvoo, or City of Beauty. The country 
 under their auspices soon changed its appearance, and 
 the settlement became very thriving, until the animosity 
 of the citizens of the State was aroused by certain acts of 
 the new sect ; when they rose in arms and expelled them, 
 after having killed Joseph Smith. The Mormons, under 
 the leadership of Brigham Young, now took refuge in 
 
t^\pRW)y-^'-'^iio:iTOV;>»:!<-'v*nr;''',^.'f « ^ ■^"'^''3^**' 
 
 THE MORMONS. 
 
 57 
 
 their present home— the valley of the Salt Lake — which 
 they have occupied for the past thirty years ; but their 
 s^ay there does not promise to be of much longer duration, 
 as, since the completion of the Pacific Railroad, which 
 brinj^'S them into communication with the Eastern and 
 Pacific States, there has been a great irruption of " outer 
 barbariai^s," attracted by the rich mining in the Territory. 
 This contact with the Gentiles does not agree with the 
 " peculiar institutions" of the Mormons, who now medi- 
 tate a generiJ exodus to Mexico, with the Government 
 of which cou itry President Young has negotiated for the 
 settlement of a large tract of country, to be enrolled as a 
 State in that Republic. 
 
 Polygamy, as has before been mentioned, was originally 
 denounced by the Book of Mormon; and it is denied by 
 many that Smith was the author of the Revelation of 
 Celestial Marriage, but that it was added by Young and 
 Pratt. Certain it is, that Smith's four sons do not give in 
 their adherence to it, and have formed a schism in the 
 church, having a large following under the name of 
 " Josephites." 
 
 I went to the Tabernacle on Sunday to attend the 
 service, which consisted of hymns, sung by a fair choir, 
 with organ accompaniment ; what seemed to be extem- 
 pore prayers, delivered by several of the elders ; a long 
 sermon by the bishop, Orson Pratt, and the administering 
 of the sacrament. The preacher deduced from texts, 
 
 
 5 i 
 
 r- ■' 
 
 
i 
 
 li/ < 
 
 1 1 
 
 llfli J 
 
 I ! 
 
 r 
 
 K ■■> 
 
 ^\ I 
 
 58 
 
 TRANS- PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 taken from Daniel and Matthew, evidently to the entire 
 satisfaction of his hearers, that the world was near its 
 end, that the millennium was nigh, and that God's King- 
 dom — i.e., the Mormons — was about to be saved. He 
 attempted to show that the signs of the times all tended 
 to point towards the second coming of the Messiah ; and 
 further stated that, if asked what would replace the 
 various forms of government existing in the world, his 
 own opinion was, that the best parts of the constitutions 
 of the United States and Great Britain might be retained 
 in the coming Kingdom of God. The whole service, to 
 me, seemed wanting in solemnity, and the Bishop's address 
 sounded very much like rank blasphemy. The attend- 
 ance at the Tabernacle could not have exceeded 2,500 ; 
 but I was assured that the paucity of the numbers was 
 in consequence of the bad weather, and that the general 
 average is very much larger. The appearance of the 
 congregation was poor in the extreme, and it would be a 
 difficult matter to find in any place of worship a more 
 unintellectual-looking lot of people. 
 
 And now a few words, before closing this chapter, as 
 to how the whole aftair strikes a stranger. Any dispas- 
 sionate observer, after staying among these people a 
 short time, cannot fail but come to the conclusion that 
 the whole is a gigantic ft-aud ; such an one, in fact, as 
 could only be originated and carried out by our American 
 cousins. The system enriches and aggrandizes the 
 
 li I 
 
 F 
 
NOTES ON MOR MONISM. 
 
 59 
 
 leaders at the expense of the poor dehided beings — the 
 rank and file — whose industry and indomitable perse- 
 verance have to bear the pressure of supporting the 
 drones — their leaders — who live upon them. The greater 
 part of the tithe undoubtedly finds its way into the pockets 
 of Brigham Young, who subdivides among his leading 
 elders according to desert, — i.e., the extent of their sub- 
 serviency to him. The various leaders of this peculiar 
 people possess nice villa residences and drive in fine 
 carriages, the President, Brigham Young, having no less^ 
 than three large mansions, called respectively the Lion 
 and the Beehive houses ; the third, recently erected, has 
 not as yet received a name. As he has eighteen wives 
 and forty-four children, it is easily imagined that much 
 accommodation is needed. One of his wives, Ann 
 Eliza Young, recently obtained a divorce from him, and 
 published a book, exposing the evils of Mormonism, by 
 which, it is said, she has realized a little competency. 
 Though Brigham Young is the head of the Church, he 
 yet takes a prominent part in lay matters. He is director 
 of several companies, banks, &:c., and is largely interested 
 in a mercantile business called the " Zion's Co-operative 
 Mercantile Institute." This latter is conducted on a very 
 extensive scale, and has its ramifications and branches, not 
 alone in the city itself, but throughout the whole Territory. 
 The rising generation, notably the female portion, are 
 said to be averse to polygamy ; and, if such be the case, 
 
 ijii 
 
 ■ 
 
 f 
 
 il 
 
 w 
 
 i 
 
! 
 
 i k' 
 
 1i 
 
 m 
 
 § 
 
 <5o 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 this fact, combined with the increasing communication 
 with the outer worUl, may tend, in time, to stamp out 
 this great evil. At present, it is growing, and growing 
 rapidly, as, in addition to the excess of births over deaths, 
 there is a large immigration going in. Shortly after my 
 departure, an increase was made to tlicir numbers by 
 the arrival of some five hundred immigrants under the 
 leadership of several elders. 
 
 .IH 
 
 II 
 
 »'^m. 
 
 ,j i ! i 4ffljiijij]W(iiii j ^^ 
 
CHAPTER v. 
 
 OVER THE ROCKV MOUXTAIXS-CIHCACO. 
 
 Dkvii.'s ( . vtk — Weber Caiion — Devil's Slide — Kchu Canon — 
 Castle Rocks — I'laius — iSherman — Prairie Dog N'illages — 
 Omaha — IJridgc over the Missouri Burlington— History of 
 Chicago —Great Fire — Fine Position W^ater Supply -Streets 
 — Parks — I'uMic lUiildings — Grain Trade — Cattle Trade — 
 Pork Packing — Hotels. 
 
 Leaving Salt Lake City, I arrived at Ogden in time to- 
 catch the early train of the Union Pacific Railway 
 Company, eastward bound. 
 
 From Ogden we passed through well-cultivated 
 country, divided into farms, with comfortable-looking 
 homesteads, and soon entered the Wahsatch Mountains 
 through a chasm called the Devil's Gate, on a high 
 trestle-bridge, elevated fifty feet above a torrent that 
 dashed through the gorge. We were now in that region 
 of grand and most imposing beauty called the Weber 
 Canon. P'ortunate in passing through in the daytime, I 
 had an opportunity of seeinijj this, the most interesting 
 part of the route from the Pacific to the Atlantic. The 
 road winds through the devious turns of this canon, 
 where rock-ribbed mountains — snow-capped — rise to an 
 awful height on either side, destitute of vegetation, 
 except here and there a stunted pine-tree. This rocky 
 region lies between the valleys of the Salt Lake and the 
 
 I 
 
lij^ 
 
 ir 
 
 62 
 
 TRANS- PAC I F I C S KETC H KS. 
 
 ■Green River, and the train has to pass through five 
 tunnels, having an aggregate length of 2,000 feet, cut 
 through solid rock, which never crumbles, and does not 
 recMiire to be arched with brick. 
 
 Shortly after entering Weber Canon we passed that 
 wonderful natural rock formation called the Devil's Slide, 
 which consists of two ridges of rock standing some ten 
 feet out from the face of the mountain, up which they 
 extend, parallel to one another, for a distance of, perhaps, 
 200 feet. For some thirty miles we continued our way 
 through the dark deep cleft of this canon, the rocks 
 assuming most fantastic shapes, and the A\'eber River 
 raging below. From the shape the rocks assume, they 
 have received such names as Pulpit Rocks, ^Vitch 
 Rocks, &c. 
 
 Emerging from Weber Canon, we soon again entered 
 a defile in the mountains called Echo Canon. This is a 
 deep, rugged ravine, some seven miles in length, ilanked 
 on the left-hand side by bold precipitous cliffs, from 300 
 to 800 feet high, totally destitute of vegetation, and 
 waterworn by the action of storms. The opposite side, 
 sheltered from the southerly gales, is composed of 
 sloping masses of rock, covered with moss and other 
 vegetation; and of gently undulating hills. In the gully 
 below, a beautifully clear stream flows placidly through 
 the channel it has made for itself in the rock ; but about 
 half-way down, the ravine narrows to a mere defile, and 
 
 6 , ' 
 
 ■t* 
 
I i I 
 
 OVER THE ROCKY MOUNIAINS. 
 
 63 
 
 here the river seems to grow wilder, ami, like an athlete, 
 to gather up its strength to overcome at a bound the 
 obstacles in its course. Here, too, the banks are steeper, 
 the vegetation more luxuriant, and the lofty clifts on the 
 left are broken up into all manner of fantastic outlines. 
 As we flitted rapidly by, it was easy to imagine that 
 these masses of red rock, })iled one above the other to 
 such an enormous height, assumed the shape of any 
 object uppermost in our minds ; but, on approaching the 
 celebrated Castle Rocks, almost at the outlet of the 
 canon, it needed no stretch of imagination to picture a 
 huge baronial castle, for there it seemingly stood before 
 us, with its solid walls frowning down upon us, with its 
 towers and keep, as if wrought by the hands of giants. 
 Here are to be seen the massive boulders and huge 
 masses of rock collected on the brink of the precipice, 
 and intended to have been hurled down upon the 
 enemies of Mormonism — the United States forces, under 
 General Johnson, sent out against the Mormons in 1857. 
 After passing Echo Canon, we arrived at Castle Rocks 
 station, and shortly afterwards left the Territory of Utah, 
 at Granger. The scenery continued of a mountainous 
 character until we arrived at Green River station, where 
 we began to traverse bleak and desolate plains, covered 
 with that unpleasant alkaline dust which so effectually 
 prevents the growth of anything but the hardy sage-bush. 
 On these plains not a living thing is to be seen but 
 
 i\ 
 
64 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
 ni 
 
 im 
 
 jackass-rabbits and lizards, and this continues for two 
 hundred miles. We so m re-commenced our up-hill 
 progress, and could perceive how rapid was our ascent 
 by the increased coldness and rarefaction of the atmo- 
 sphere. Passing Laramie City, a rising little town that 
 owes its origin and prosperity to the Pacific Railway, and 
 where the Company have some machine shops, and, what 
 is very praiseworthy, a good hos; .'.luI for the cure of their 
 employes when sick or in case of accidents, we soon 
 crossed the Dale Creek bridge. This bridge is 650 feet 
 in length, and through its intersti -es we could see the 
 valley and little meandering stream 126 feet below us. 
 It is built of timber, and has a very frail appearance, 
 though capable of supporting the heaviest train. 
 
 Continuing our ascent, we soon reached Sherman, 
 named after General Sherman, the " tallest " officer in the 
 American army ; where we attained the highest point on 
 the line — an elevation above the level of the sea of 8,250 
 feet. This is the highest station in the world, rsnd we 
 were literally above the clouds, for we could see them 
 below us resting on the sides of the mountain. From 
 this point we commenced to descend, through rugged 
 granite hills, winding in and out of ihterminable snow- 
 sheds, until we arrived at Cheyenne City, the principal 
 station on the line between Ogden and Omaha. 
 
 Cheyenne is already a place of some importance, with 
 a population numbering about 4,000; and as it is the 
 
•tLmmm 
 
 OVF.R THE RcCKV .M( )UN IAIN'S. 
 
 65 
 
 \>i 
 
 point of junction of the line to Denver, the capital of the 
 State of Colorado, and the Pacific line, it seems likely to 
 become a thriving and prosperous town. It is situated on 
 a broad plain, watered by the Crow Creek, at an elevation 
 of 6,041 feet, and is barely ten years old, the first house 
 having been built in 1867. It was at one time a very 
 *' rowdy " place, but its reckless times are now over, the 
 worst portion of the population having been drafted off 
 to other places. I may mention that we here obtained 
 capital antelope steaks, which have a flavour between 
 that of beef and venison. 
 
 Passing Cheyenne, we lost sight of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, that vast mountain chain that, with great variety of 
 configuration and under different names, i,'xtends from 
 the Arctic Ocean to the Straits of Magellan ; that won- 
 drous barrier which Nature seems to have reared to pre- 
 vent the encroachment of the waters of the Pacific. Seen 
 from this point, they look like white clouds in the distance. 
 
 For about two hundred and fifty miles we now passed 
 through a vast grazing country, covered all the year 
 round with a good nutritious grass. We saw several 
 herds of antelope feeding on its verdurous slopes, and 
 now and then caught a glimpse of buffaloes in the 
 distance. A remarkable feature are the prairie-dog 
 villages, where several thousands of these small animals 
 live in communities, burrowing in the earth like rabbits. 
 The Prairie-dog, or Wish-ton-Wish (Spcrnvphilus Ludo- 
 
 m 
 
I;: ! 
 
 ;, 
 
 66 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 vicianus) is a rodent ; and its popular name is due to 
 the short yelping sound which it utters, when alarmed, 
 and which resembles the bark of a young puppy. It is a 
 pretty little animal, measuring about sixteen inches in 
 length. The head, being peculiarly flat, gives it a very 
 remarkable appearance. Jt resembles the rabl^it in many 
 respects, burrowing, and, like it, is very prolific. As our 
 train approached this " village," which occupies several 
 hundred acres, honeycombed by a labyrinth of subter- 
 ranean passages, we could hear the alarm given, and 
 could see the little animals scampering off to their 
 burrows, into which they disappeared with a comical 
 lilde flourish of their hind legs. Their curiosity, how- 
 ever, seemed irrepressible, for presently we could see 
 their little heads protruding cautiously from the burrows, 
 and their in(]uisitive little eyes prying to discover the 
 cause of the disturbance. 
 
 The prairies here appear boundless, stretching away as 
 far as the eye can reach, and then disappearing into 
 space. There are portions under cultivation, but these 
 farms seem swallowed up in the immensity of the 
 country. There is an undulating sweep, or " roll," in 
 these prairies, that, combined with the want of trees, and 
 the multitude of tiny blossoms on the turf, give them all 
 the appearance of the ocean. 
 
 After passing the prairies we entered the valley of the 
 Platte River, which, in this season of the year — the early 
 
 • 
 
 si 
 
 I 
 
OVER THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 67 
 
 as 
 ito 
 ,'se 
 the 
 in 
 In.l 
 jail 
 
 Ihe 
 
 rly 
 
 summer, before the grasses and flowers have withered, 
 and the streams still meander through it — is particularly- 
 attractive. The Platte River itself is broad, being fully 
 three-quarters of a mile across ; but it is a sluggish 
 stream, (juite useless for navigation, as the water is said 
 to be only some few inches deep. 
 
 We skirted its banks for some distance ; and, after 
 passing several stations of more or less importance, 
 arrived at Elkhorn, a pretty little place situated on the 
 river of the same name, which is 300 miles long, and 
 flows through a valley of good and productive land. This 
 is quite a German settlement ; and as the setders are at 
 no loss for cheap and abundant supplies of food, it is a 
 most thriving one. The river abounds with good fish, 
 and game is abundant ; and each snug little farm-house 
 seems to possess a good orchard and garden. The lines 
 of these settlers have certcnnly fallen in pleasant places. 
 
 We now rapidly approached Omaha, the terminus of 
 the Union Pacific and other lines ; to which fact it owes 
 its rise and progress. It is built on the western bank of 
 the Missouri River, on a high ridge, which rises some fifty 
 feet above the water level. Though barely twenty years old, 
 it already possesses a population of about 25,000 inhabi- 
 tants, and is a bustling, thriving place, with numerous 
 fine buildings and two daily papers. It bids fair to 
 become one of the most important of Western cities. 
 
 At Omaha wc crossed the River Missouri, on the great 
 
 1^ 1 
 
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 68 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 iron bridge, to Council Bluffs, on the opposite bank of 
 the river. This bridge has only recently been completed, 
 and replaces the old bridge of boats, which necessitated 
 passengers descending from the cars and crossing the 
 river on foot. This has been obviated by the completion 
 of til is great engineering work, which completes an 
 unbroken line of railway from the Pacific to the Atlantic. 
 This bridge is of enormous length, built entirely of iron, 
 the abutments being hollow pillars, sunk below the bed 
 of the river to a strata of rock, and filled with granite. 
 Its cost of construction was ^200,000. Electing to 
 proceed to Chicago by the Burlington and Quincy Rail- 
 road, I took the cars of that company, and soon found 
 that we began to move at a much fjuicker pace ; for, 
 whereas our progress from San Francisco had been only 
 twenty-two miles an hour, we now proceeded at a rate 
 of thirty-five, The road passed through fine farming 
 country in the State of Illinois, many spots being 
 perfect pictures of rural beauty, with her-^ and there a 
 town nestling in amongst the trees. Some of these towns 
 are of great commercial importance. Burlington, a town 
 of some 20,000 inhabitants, situated on the Mississippi 
 River, is the principal : Aurora and Galesburg are also 
 large towns. At Burlington we cross^ ^ the Mississippi 
 on a magnificent iron bridge. 
 
 After a continuous journey from Ogden of three days 
 and a half, we arrived at Chicago. This incessant day 
 
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 CHICAGO. 
 
 69 
 
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 and night travelling, would certainly be prejudicial to 
 health ; were the jar and vibration of the bogie carriages, 
 in use throughout America, as great as in the carriages 
 on our own lines. Chicago is, in population, the 
 third city of the Union; in commercial importance, it 
 ranks after New York ; its population may be set down 
 at 400,000. In 1 830, it was only a trading station with 
 the Indians, consisting at that lime of a few log houses 
 only ; and the city has attained its present proportions, 
 since that comparatively recent date. \\'hat causes it, 
 however, to be regarded as the most remarkable city in 
 the world, is the fact, that since the great fire of 187 i, the 
 greatest conilagration of modern times — in which three 
 and a half S(|uare miles of the principal part of the city 
 were burned; in which 17,450 buildings were destroyed, 
 and 98,000 people rendered homeless ; the monetary loss 
 of which, was estimated at little short of thirty-seven 
 millions sterling, ten millions only of which, were covered 
 by insurance — the city has sprung up like a phoenix out 
 of its ashes, and now shows but few traces of the dire 
 calamity. The buildings destroyed, have all been 
 replaced by noble stone edifices; so that now Chicago may 
 justly claim to be a " City of Palaces." In 1S74, another 
 fire broke out in the devoted city, and six hundred acres 
 of buildings were consumed ; yet, in spite of these 
 disastrous drawbacks, Chicago exhibits but few remains 
 of either devastation. 
 
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 TRANS-l'ACll-'IC SKETCHES. 
 
 The position of the city is most favourable, being 
 situated mid- way between the Eastern and Western 
 States ; on Lake Michigan, which gives it a splendid 
 water-way. It is also the centre of a vast railway system, 
 and has in consequence become the greatest grain 
 emporium in the world, and also the largest cattle and 
 lumber market. It has not been without straining every 
 nerve, that the city has been rebuilt in such an incal- 
 culably short time ; house rents are very high in 
 consequence, and ratepayers obtain some concession, 
 by paying their rates in advance. 
 
 Chicago is well laid out, the streets being generally 
 eighty feet wide ; some of them are from three to seven 
 miles in length, run due north to south, and east to west, 
 and cross one another at right angles. The Chicago 
 River runs through the city, and with its two branches, 
 divides it into three parts ; between which, communica- 
 tion is effected by means of thirty-three bridges. These 
 bridges swing on central pivots, and have to be opened 
 to allow vessels to pass ; but as this is found to interrupt 
 the street traffic, they are commencing to build tunnels, 
 under the bed of the river. Two have already been 
 completed ; one connects the northern and western 
 divisions of the city, and is 1,600 feet long; the other 
 joins the northern and southern, and is 1,900 feet in 
 length. 
 
 The water supply system is excellent. A tunnel has 
 
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 CHICAGO. 
 
 71 
 
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 been constructed, extending two miles under tlie lake : 
 into this the water enters through a grated cylinder in an 
 immense crib, on which a lighthouse, and signal-station 
 have been erected. This tunnel connects witli a tower 
 130 feet high, up which the water is forced, by four 
 engines, having a daily pumping capacity of 72,000,000 
 gallons ; and it flows thence to all parts of the city. 
 
 The principal streets are State-street (the Broadway of 
 Chicago), Lake, Clark, La Salle, Randolph, Dearborn, 
 and Maddison streets. These are principally devoted to 
 business purposes ; the best private residences are in 
 Wabash and Michigan Avenues, which have a semi- 
 suburban appearance, and are planted with double rows 
 of fine trees. 
 
 The park system is unrivalled. There are six parks, 
 covering altogether an area of 1,900 acres, which are 
 connected by a series of fine boulevards, extending 
 round the city, and forming thirty miles of fine drives ; 
 in addition to those in and around the parks. Lincoln 
 Park is a good specimen of landscape gardening ; it 
 possesses fine trees, an artificial river, lake, and hills ; 
 and contains many summer houses, and rustic seats and 
 bridges. Humboldt, Central, Douglas, South, and 
 Union, are all nice parks ; especially tlie latter, which 
 only contains some seventeen acres, but is so well laid 
 out, that it has the appearance of being much larger. 
 
 The principal public buildings were destroyed during 
 
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 72 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 the fire, and whilst all, or nearly all the business premises 
 have been rebuilt ; the re-construction of the former, is 
 being more slowly proceeded with. The new building 
 to be used as a Custom-house and Post-office, now in 
 course of erection, at an estimated cost of $4,000000, 
 gives promise of being one of the finest in the country. 
 
 The Courthouse, the building of which is also being 
 very slowly proceeded with, will be a fine edifice. The 
 Chamber of Commerce is very elaborate in its interior 
 decorations. A visitor, accustomed to the quiet and 
 orderly conduct ofEnghsh Chambers of Commerce, must 
 be astonished, at the noise and excitement, that here 
 prevail. It is devoted principally to the interests of the 
 grain trade ; and the samples of wheat, maize, fiour, »Sv:c., 
 are displayed on small tables, which are always surrounded 
 by crowds of buyers and sellers, whose shouting and 
 gesticulating, convert the hall into a perfect little 
 pandemonium. 
 
 The grain trade of this city is colossal. In 1872, 
 which be it remembered, was only one year after the 
 fire ; 86,000,000 bushels were received, and exported. 
 The mode of conducting this trade is as follows : the 
 railway brings the grain into the warehouses, which are 
 immensely high buildings, situated on the river side. 
 The grain is received, and shipj^ed loose, the use of bags 
 being dispensed with ; it is shovelled into the elevators, 
 and taken up to the top of the building, where it is run 
 
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 CHICAGO. 
 
 73 
 
 over to the other side, and discharged into the ships 
 through big shoots. A day's transactions at one of tlie 
 fifteen grain-elevating stores in the city, which have an 
 aggregate storage capacity of 13,000,000 bushels; will 
 give some idea of tlie magnitude of this trade. Some 
 days 600 railway trucks are unloaded, the daily average 
 being 370, each of which, contains 400 bushels; each 
 elevator in the building, and there are twenty four, raises 
 600 bushels per hour. 
 
 The cattle trade, the next largest industry of Chicago, 
 is of almost ec^ual magnitude. The value of the live 
 stock imported in 1873, was $80,000,000. The trade is 
 carried on outside the city, at the Union Cattle and 
 Stock Yards, which are so extensive, that they merit a 
 description. These yards comprise 345 acres, o( which 
 100 are enclosed as pens. They have thirly-one miles of 
 drainage, seven miles of roadway, 2,300 gates, and cost 
 nearly ^400,000 ; they have accommodation for 21,000 
 cattle, 75,000 hogs, 22,000 sheep, and 200 horses. 
 Connected with the yards, are an hotel, a bank, a Board 
 of Trade ; and a town of 4,000 inhabitants has sprung up 
 just outside with churches, schools, .I^ic. 
 
 Some of the pork-packing establishments are in close 
 proximity to the yards. This is also a very extensive 
 industry ; as in 1872, 1,500,000 hogs, and 16,000 
 catde were packed. The process, seen for the first time, 
 is rather interesting. The hog, pressed onward by those 
 
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 74 
 
 TKANS PACIFIC SKEICHES. 
 
 behind, proceeds up an inclined plane, through a door, 
 which might appropriately be inscribed with Dante's 
 
 "All liope abandon, yc who enter here,'' 
 
 into a pen, in the upper part of the packing-house. Here 
 a chain, attached to a pulley in a sliding frame, is slipped 
 over one leg ; and he is jerked up, his throat cut, 
 his body lowered into a vat of boiling water, taken out, 
 scraped, disembowelled, and hung up to cool. In this 
 manner, a hog, which had ascended the inclined plane in 
 all the pride of youth, strength, and porcine beauty ; was 
 within a few minutes, lying in the lower story of the 
 packing-house, cut up, salted, and ready for exportation. 
 
 The lumber trade is also one of the principal resources 
 of the city, it having been computed, that in 1873, a 
 billion feet of lumber were received. 
 
 Chicago possesses many fine hotels. The Palmer 
 House at which I obtained excellent accommodation, 
 though not the largest, contains 650 bedrooms, many 
 with bathroom attached. The principal dining-room 
 with its grand columns, and frescoes, is very beautiful ; 
 and the drawing-rooms are splendidly furnished. Other 
 large hotels are the Grand Pacific, the Tremont House, 
 the Sherman House, and a host of others of secondary 
 importance. 
 
 Whilst on the subject, I may mention, that American 
 hotels offer great facilities to guests ; by having attached, 
 
 
CKK ACO. 
 
 75 
 
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 post and telegraph offices, a bureau wliere may be 
 obtained railway and theatre tickets, barber's shop, &c. 
 The prevaiHng rates are from three to five dollars per 
 diem, according to the accommodation required. There 
 is no sociable table d' bote ; guests order from the bill of 
 fare what they require, and it is brought up in portions, 
 all at the same time, so that most of the dishes become 
 cold, before they are partaken of. This arrangement 
 seems to be, in conse([uence of a want of patience, on 
 the part of Americans, to sit out a table d' bote dinner; 
 for they invariably appear to swallow down, as quickly 
 as they can, the numerous dishes they order; and then 
 to hurry off at once to their avocations. 
 
 Communication with all parts of the city, is obtained 
 by means of a most perfect system of tram-cars, the fare 
 being only six cents the course. 
 
 There are several fine theatres ; McVickers' is one of 
 the best in the country ; the New Chicago is also a nice 
 house, but the others are mediocre. 
 
 I left Chicago for Detroit early in the morning, and 
 arrived there the evening of the same day. 
 
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CHAPTER VI. 
 
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 DETROIT— THE NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 The City of Dct'oit — Cmiipus Martins — C'oniniLMce — Vicinity — 
 Journey to Clifton — Position and Description of tlie Falls — 
 Bridge over the Kapids — Under the Falls — Hath Island — Goat 
 Island — Lunar Island — " Three Sisters" — Cave of the Winds — 
 Suspension I!ridge — Whirljiool Rapids — Whirlpool — Lewiston. 
 
 Detroit is a clean and pretty town, containing many fine 
 villa residences ; it is situated on the Detroit River — a 
 noble stream, twenty miles long, connecting Erie Lake 
 with Lake St. Clair; and forming here, the best harbour 
 on the whole chain of lakes. 
 
 Detroit is the principal city of Michigan, and contains 
 some I CO. GOO inhabitants; the river front for miles is 
 lined with warehouses, dry-docks, shipbuilding yards, 
 founderies, and grain-elevators ; and the city is laid out 
 on the usual American rectangular plan. 
 
 The streets are broad ; those containing the business 
 premises vary from 50 to 100 feet in width ; the avenues 
 of private mansions from 100 to 200 feet. They are 
 generally planted, with a double row of trees on both 
 .sides, and these beech, chestnut, oak, elm, and maple 
 trees, all covered with foliage, give a pretty countrified 
 appearance to the city, and form a most agreeable shade. 
 
 The Campus Martius, a fine open space or square, is the 
 

 DETROIT. 
 
 77 
 
 principal feature in the arrangement of the city. Taking 
 up the whole side of this square stands the City Hall, 
 a noble stone building in the Italian style ; consisting of 
 three stories, above the basement, and surmounted by a 
 Mansard roof. In the middle of the square is the 
 Soldier's Monument ; erected in memory of the Michigan 
 soldiers who fell in the civil war. On the north side of 
 the Campus Martius is the Opera House, one of the 
 largest buildings of the kind, in the country. This square 
 is crossed by \Voo«.i\vard and Michigan Avenues, and 
 from it radiate Munroc Avenue and Fort-street. These 
 avenues, for miles, are lined on both sides wifn detached, 
 and semi-detached houses, each standing in its own 
 garden. 
 
 In the centre of the city is a semicircular park, called 
 the Grand Circus, which is divided in two- by Woodward 
 Avenue, each part containing a fine fountain. 
 
 The principal buildings are the Custom House, and 
 Post Office, both under the same roof, and the Board of 
 Trade. The Great Wheat Elevator of the Michigan 
 Central Railway Company is a large building, from the 
 cupola of which a grand view is obtained of the city, 
 river, and Lakes St. Clair and Erie. 
 
 The manufactures of tlie city are rather extensive, 
 comprising ironworks, machine-shops for the construction 
 of railway rolling-stock ; flour mills, breweries, and 
 extensive tobacco and cigar factories ; the shipping 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 interests are also large. Pork and tish-packing are carried 
 on very extensively. 
 
 In the river are the pretty IJelle Isle, Grove Isle, and 
 Put In Islands. The former is a pleasant resort for pic- 
 nic parties : on Grove Isle are many beautiful summer 
 residences, and Put In Islands are largely visited by 
 excursionists. 
 
 On leaving Detroit, the train ran on to a large steam- 
 ferry, and it was so conveyed over to the Canadian side 
 of the river ; whence the route lay through a fine agricul- 
 tural country, with some charming bits of scenery, in the 
 Province of Ontario. 
 
 We passed several flourishing little towns ; the rising 
 city of London being amongst the number, and finally 
 arrived at our destination, Clifton, a village on the 
 Canadian side of the celebrated Niagara Falls. 
 
 What can I say of this stupendous work of Nature, 
 that has not been said before ? — how describe the awe 
 and feeling of insignificance, that overcome one, at the 
 first sight of this " Thunder of Waters ? " It is futile to 
 attempt to give an idea, of the awful grandeur of the 
 various scenes about the great cataract; and no pen 
 could accomplish an adequate description of them. 
 
 So much has been written about the Falls of Niagara, 
 that their general features are now well known to most 
 readers ; still a few words about them may not be out of 
 place. 
 
 
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 FALLS <JF NIAGARA. 
 
 79 
 
 The first European wlio saw Niagara was a French 
 missionary, Father Hennipen, in 1678, nearly two 
 centuries ago ; and since that time, it has been visited 
 by millions of people, who have all in turn gazed with 
 feelings of awe, on this tumultuous rush of waters. 
 Niagara is an old Irocjuois word signifying Thunder of 
 Waters, and a more ^..^pressive one could not have been 
 found ; it being in very truth a thunder of waters, the 
 noise of which, is heard at a distance of many miles, 
 sounding like the moaning of the sea. 
 
 All the great lakes of America, viz., Superior, Huron, 
 Michigan, and Krie, pour their waters into Lake Ontario, 
 through a channel about thirty-six miles in length, called 
 the Niagara River, which forms part of the boundary 
 between Canada, and the State of New York. The 
 famous Falls are about twenty miles below Lake Erie, 
 and are divided in two by Goat Island, and called 
 respectively the American, and Canadian, or Horseshoe 
 Falls. The former is 900 feet wide and 1 64 feet high ; 
 the latter 2,000 feet wide, and 158 feet high. Over 
 these precipices, the irresistible wat°r rushes, at the rale 
 of one hundred millions of tons per hour; aid this 
 immense volume of water is computed to wear av ay the 
 rock, by friction, at the rate of a foot a year ; and the 
 Falls are said to have gradually receded from Queens- 
 town, seven miles below, to their present position. The 
 river varies in width, from half a mile to three miles ; at 
 
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 80 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 I;' 
 
 the Falls it is three-quart '.;rs of a mile wide, and is 
 studded above, with numerous islands. The total 
 descent from Erie to Ontario is 334 feet, which, dis- 
 tributed equally over the length of the river, would be a 
 fall of ten feet in the mile, — or hardly sufficient to form 
 a rapid. 
 
 Just above the Falls, a magnificent cast-iron bridge has 
 been built across the river ; and standing upon it, one 
 forms some idea of the grandeur of tlie scene ; in seeing 
 the river, as it whirls along to its impending fate in a 
 rushing torrent ; seeming as if it would carry the bridge, 
 with its puny passengers, over the frightful precipice. 
 This is called he Rapid above the Falls ; the descent 
 being sixty feet in the mile. In its course the river 
 foams, and hurls up its billows, as in a very ecstacy of 
 madness ; and forms a fine contrast, to the grand and 
 placid flow of the waters over the Falls. 
 
 One of the best views of the great Cataract is obtained 
 from Prospect Park, on the American side, which 
 consists of some eight acres of wooded land, skirting 
 the river bank, for some distance above, and below the 
 American Fall. It is well laid out in lawn, and walks ; 
 and the bank in the immediate vicinity of the Fall has 
 been built up with solid masonry, a low wall protecting 
 the brink ; so that visitors can look down, in perfect 
 safety, into the dizzy depths of the precipice on the verge 
 of which they stand. This stone parapet is projected to 
 
ni.\(;aka. 
 
 8i 
 
 the very edge of the Fall, and one can stand just by the 
 rush of the waters, and take in at one view, the whole 
 magnificent arc of the Niagara. 
 
 The vivid hues of the waters, as they glide onward, 
 and bend in an unbroken sheet over the brink, contrast 
 with the whiteness of the wreathing mists, into which 
 they pkmge. The ceaseless, and stupendous movement 
 of the descending deluge ; the huge rising clouds of 
 spray ; the deafening roar, that arises from the boiling 
 depths ; all combine to bewilder and confound one. 
 Only after long gazing is the mind able to realize, that it 
 confronts a picture, the beauty and sublimity of which, 
 can never be wholly grasped. 
 
 A better conception of the majesty of the great Cataract 
 can be formed, by viewing it from the huge rock-masses, 
 that lie in chaotic confusion about the foot of the 
 American Fall. The mountain of descending waters 
 impends almost directly above the spectator ; the boiling 
 abyss is close at his feet. A breath of air will suddenly 
 turn upon him a bl'nding shower of spray, through which, 
 if the sun be shining, he may catch a view of the iris ; 
 not as elsewhere, a prismatic arc only, but an almost 
 perfect circle of dazzling radiance. 
 
 To obtain the best idea, however, of the astounding 
 magnitude of Niagara, and to take in its immensity ; it 
 is necessary for a visitor to put on an oilskin dress, 
 obtained on payment of a small fee, and, accompanied 
 
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 52 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 by a guide, to go under the Fall. After recovering the 
 fatigue of the descent, and getting the spray out of his 
 eyes ; he will feel amply repaid by the scene thai 
 bursts upon his astonished gaze. I availed myself of 
 this convenience, and stood behind the watery curtain, 
 twenty feet thick in the centre, under the great Horse- 
 shoe Fall ; with the water falling over the ledge, right in 
 front of me, and descending to the river in one gigantic 
 bound. The view here is awfully grand. As we gaze 
 upwards at the frov/ning cliff, that seems tottering to its 
 fall, and pass under the thick curtain of water, — so near, 
 that it seems as if we could touch it ; and hear the 
 hissing spray ; and are stunned by the deafening roar, 
 that issues from the misty vortex at our feet ; an inde- 
 scribable feeling of awe steals over us, and we feel like 
 very insects, before this manifestation of one of Nature's 
 greatest terrestrial wonders. Behind our nan^ow foot- 
 ])ath, the precipice of the Horseshoe Fall rises perpen- 
 dicularly to a height of ninety feet ; at our feet, the cliif 
 descends about seventy feet, into a turmoil of foam ; whilst 
 in front of us is the liquid curtain, which, ever passing 
 onward, never unveils this wildest of Nature's caverns. 
 
 Goat Island is half a mile long, by a quarter broad ; 
 it contains about seventy acres, and is very heavily 
 wooded. It is situated on the very verge of the 
 Falls, and appears as if it would be hurled into the 
 depths below, by the force of the water. From Goat 
 
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NIAGARA. 
 
 «3 
 
 
 Island, some of the best views are obtained, and it is 
 connected by bridges with Bath and Lunar Islands. 
 Even this glorious scenery is not sacred from the 
 desecrating hand of utilitarianism ; for on Bath Island a 
 large paper mill has been erected ; thus utilizing the 
 enormous water-power, for industrial purposes. 
 
 From Lunar Island, the best view is obtained of the 
 beautiful lunar bow, which is only visible for a short time 
 in the month, when the moon is full, and high in the 
 heavens. The solar bow is always seen, when the sun 
 shines on the Falls. It is said that Lunar Island trem- 
 bles, and this does not seem at all improbable, although 
 I did not observe it. 
 
 Three lovely little islands, called the Three Sisters, 
 lie on the American side, in close proximity to Goat 
 Island ; and being now all connected by bridges, are 
 easily accessible, and from them is obtained, the grandest 
 view of the rapids. 
 
 The Cave of the Winds is another and perhaps one 
 of the most remarkable sights here ; it has been formed 
 by the action of the water, wearing away the softer strata 
 of the rock, and thus making a cavity loo feet wide, 130 
 feet high, and 30 feet deep. Along the floor of this 
 cave, the spray is dashed with considerable force, striking 
 the walls and curling upwards along the roof; thus 
 causing the turmoil, which has procured for it, its name. 
 When the sun shines, a beautiful rainbow, quite circular 
 
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84 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 in form, quivers amid the driving spray. It is necessary 
 to wear the oilskin dress, when visiting this cave ; and 
 all conversation is impossible, the mighty Fall claiming its 
 right of alone being heard. 
 
 The Suspension Bridge, which spans the river in view 
 of the Falls, is a splendid structure 1,240 feet long; it 
 will sup port a weight of 3,000 tons, and itself weighs only 
 250 tons, or only one-twelfth of its sustaining power. 
 Three thousand people might be distributed over its 
 length, without in any way affecting its supporting 
 capacity. In the tower on the Canadian side, is an 
 elevator, which takes visitors to the top ; whence a fine 
 view of the surrounding country is obtained. 
 
 The ^ . 'iirlpool Rapids, about two miles below the 
 Falls, nteresting ; for here the waters rush along at 
 
 the rate of twenty-seven miles an hour, tossing up breakers 
 to the height of thirty feet. According to Sir Charles 
 Lyell, fifteen hundred million cubic feet of water rush 
 through this gorge every minute. To see these rapids 
 from the best point of view, it is necessary to descend to 
 the water's edge, by means of a hydraulic lift constructed 
 for the purpose, on the American side of the river. 
 
 About three miles below the Falls, the river takes an 
 abrupt turn, and the water dashes with great violence 
 against the cliffs on the Canadian side ; forming a large 
 whirlpool, in which, the waters seem to seethe, and boil, 
 as though in a caldron. 
 
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 NIAGARA. 
 
 85 
 
 The Clifton House is a comfortable hotel, in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of the ground, upon which was fought the 
 Battle of Lundy's Lane. 
 
 After having revelled in these glorious scenes, and 
 stamped them indelibly in my mind, neve to be effaced 
 until such time as all will be oblivion ; but to be recalled 
 by memory in years to come, to prove a fruitful source 
 of pleasurable reminiscence ; I reluctantly tore myself 
 away from this place, so rich in Nature's grand sights. 
 The train soon conveyed me to l^ewiston, a little town 
 situated at the junction of the Niagara River and Lake 
 Ontario ; formerly of some importance, but of late much 
 injured by the opening of the Erie and AVelland Canal. 
 
 At Lewiston, I embarked on a steamer proceeding to 
 Toronto, where I arrived in a couple of hours' time, after 
 a pleasant trip across Lake Ontario. 
 
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 CHAPTKR VII. 
 TCJROXTO AM) TKIP DOWN llIK ST. I.AWKKNCK. 
 
 DKSCRinioN of Toronto — University — Queen's Park— rul>lic 
 Buildings — Sunday Observance -1 )if('erence between the People 
 of Canada and the United States — Kingston— Emperor of 
 Ura/il — Tlie Tlionsand Islands — 'I'iniber Kafts — Kapids of Long 
 Sault — Lake St. Francis — Cedar Ki.pids— La Chine — Canals. 
 
 Toronto is, after Montreal, ..le largest city of Canada; 
 it has a population of 6o,ooo ; and is situated on a beau- 
 tiful bay, the entrance to which is narrow, and protected 
 by a long spit of land, called Gibraltar Point. The city 
 has a very f^nglish appearance, and the streets, though 
 not wide, are generally well paved. The principal are 
 King and Yonga streets, which contain all the best 
 retail establishments. Front street, containing large 
 blocks of warehouses, is also a fine thoroughfare. 
 
 The University of Toronto is a grand edifice, in the 
 pure Norman style of architecture ; the buildings forming 
 three sides of a quadrangle. It is a noble institution, and 
 one of which Canadians may justly be proud ; it pos- 
 sesses a library of 20,000 volumes, and a fine museum 
 of natural history. Adjoining the University is the 
 Queen's Park, comprising fifty acres of well laid out 
 ground ; approached by long avenues of chestnut. 
 
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TORONTO, 
 
 «7 
 
 bcwch, elm, and oik trees. In the park is a t'lne monu- 
 i.icnt, surmounted by a large figure of Hrilunnia ; erected 
 to the memory of those Canadians, who fell in repelling 
 the Fenian invasion of i<S66. 
 
 The Post Oflice, built in the Ionic style, is a fine 
 building; the City Hall is plain and unpretentious; the 
 Custom House and Court House are handsome struc- 
 tures. Osgoode Hall is a very inii)osing, and extensive 
 building of the Ionic Order ; it co/iains the Provincial 
 Courts, and has a fine law library. Amongst other 
 buildings of a public charact<-'r may be enumerated 
 Sf. Lawrence Hall, the Masonic Hall, and the K\- 
 change. 
 
 Toronto is to Canada, what Kdinburgh is to Scotland, 
 the seat of its higher educational system ; and contains 
 many fine public schools, and colleges. Knox College, 
 a Presbyterian institution, is one of the principal, and 
 most successful. Trinity College is a spacious building, 
 with nurnerou:- turrets and (juaint gables ; and is situated 
 in the midst of extensive grounds. The Normal School, 
 for the training of teachers, the Model Schools, and the 
 Educational Museum are plain buildings ; but standing 
 together, as they do, in a large park, they have a very 
 picturesque appearance. 
 
 The Provincial Lunatic Asylum, and the General 
 Hospital are weil-conducted institutions ; in the latter a 
 large number of patients are annually cured. Toronto 
 
 1^1 
 
 r':\ 
 
 r:\ 
 
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 \r, 
 
 i' SI 
 
 I : i 
 
 88 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 contains more public institutions than any city in the 
 United States, double, or even treble its size ; and the 
 same may be said equally of Montreal, and Quebec. 
 
 The churches are very fine, notably the Episcopal 
 and Roman Catholic Cathedrals ; both being good 
 specimens of ecclesiastical architecture. 
 
 Sunday is kept in a very puritanical manner ; the hotel 
 bars being closed from seven o'clock on Saturday evening 
 until six o'clock on Monday morning ; and no vehicles 
 are to be seen in the streets. 
 
 I was much struck with the difference in manners, 
 and appearance, between the people of the Dominion, 
 and those of the United States. Though descending 
 from the same stock, and though only separated by a 
 river, the difference is very perceptible, and the longer 1 
 stayed in Canada, the more it impressed me. People 
 there seem ijuieter, less addicted to extravagance in 
 language, and dress ; more polite and self-denying ; 
 slower-going certainly, but more reliable. 
 
 All commodities are cheaper in Canada, than in the 
 States ; in consequence of the baneful effects of the 
 pernicious protective system, into which the latter 
 drifted ; the fruits of which, are now being reaped in the 
 high price of all articles entering into general con- 
 sumption ; in the great decrease of the mercantile 
 marine ; and in the general stagnation of trade, at present 
 existing. 
 
 i 
 
 .!• 
 
 i 
 
\ 
 
 TORONTO. 
 
 89 
 
 Proceeding on board the steamer Spartan, we had a 
 pleasant trip on Lake Ontario, which large inland sea, 
 240 miles in length, we traversed all night ; and arrived 
 next morning at six o'clock, at Kingston, and entered 
 upon the glorious scenery of the Si. Lawrence. 
 
 At Kingston, the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, 
 with their suite, came on board, travelling inco^:;nito. On 
 leaving my cabin, early in the morning, I came upon an 
 old gentleman, dressed in a rather seedy suit of clothes, 
 and wearing a somewhat dilapidated slouched hat ; who 
 at once entered into conversation, by asking me, in 
 broken English, some question about the locality. 
 When he heard that I came from Australia, he became 
 most eager in his inquiries about its prospects, resources, 
 and rate of progress. This gentleman, I afterwards 
 learned, was the Emperor, who continued the whole day 
 to mix unreservedly with the passengers ; on occasions, 
 elbowing his way through the crowd in a very bourgeois 
 manner. Royalty, 1 conclude, on close inspection, is 
 not very different to ordinary humanity. 
 
 After leaving Kingston we found ourselves en tering 
 amidst that wonderful and beautiful ' ^llection of islands, 
 known as the "Thousand Islands," in the lake of that 
 name. These lovely islands commence a little beyond 
 Kingston, and extend to Brockville, a distance of nearly 
 fifty miles, in one continuation of lovely .scenery ; forming 
 the most numerous collection of river islands in the world. 
 
 
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iaaasaasssrz 
 
 90 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 They consist of about eighteen hundred isles, and 
 islets, of every conceivable form and size ; some being 
 mere bits of rock; others several acres in extent, thickly 
 wooded, and covered with beautiful vegetation. At 
 times our steamer passed so close to these islands, that a 
 pebble might have been thrown on shore ; wiiilst 
 looking ahead, it appeared as though further progress 
 were barred ; until on rounding the next point, 
 amid winding passages, the way would gradually open 
 before us. 
 
 Again the river would seem to come to an abrupt 
 termination, but on approaching the bank ; a channel 
 would suddenly appear, and we would be whirled into a 
 magnificent lake, bounded apparently by an immense 
 green bank, which would, on our approach, be moved 
 as in a kaleidoscope, and a hundred small islets, appear 
 in its place. 
 
 A feature of the St. Lawrence navigation, are the large 
 rafts of timber met on the river, which are floated down 
 to Montreal, and Quebec. They are very large and 
 require many men to navigate them, and from the 
 numbe • of huts erected on them, they have all the 
 appearance of floating villages. 
 
 The first place of any consequence we came to was 
 Clayton, a pretty little town, on the American side of 
 the river. Alexander Bay, the next place passed, is 
 surrounded by a massive pile of rocks, and its situation 
 
 I *« 
 
 A 
 
THE ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 91 
 
 is romantic, and picturesque, in the extreme. We now 
 left the Lake of the Thousand Islands, and re-entering 
 the St. Lawrence, soon arrived at Brock ville, a thriving 
 Canadian town of about 7,000 inhabitants. Opposite to 
 it, is the American town of Ogdensburg, a busy place, 
 with a population of some 9,000 souls. The towns 
 on the American side appear to have a greater appear- 
 ance of prosperity, than their rivals on the Canadian 
 bank. 
 
 After passing Prescott, which has a decayed appear- 
 ance ; the increased rapidity of the current, indicated 
 that we were approaching the first of that series of 
 remarkable, and celebrated Rapids of the St. Lawrence ; 
 and preparations were made to shoot it. A tiller was 
 attached to the rudder, and manned ; whilst the Indian 
 pilot took his station at the wheel, on the upper deck. 
 
 The Rapid of Long Sault, so called from its great 
 length, rushes along at the rate of twenty miles an hour. 
 When our steamer arrived within its influence, steam was 
 shut oflf, and we were carried onwards by the force of the 
 stream alone ; the water presenting all the appearance of 
 an angry sea. The boat strained, and laboured ; its 
 motion — quite different to the ordinary pitching and 
 tossing — causing this going down hill by water, to prove 
 a very novel sensation, and one not unalloyed with 
 fear. Great precision is requisite, in steering a vessel 
 over these rapids, her head having to be kept straight 
 
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 92 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKEICHES. 
 
 with the course of the stream ; for if she diverge in the 
 least, she " broaches to," and is instantly capsized. 
 
 Shortly after leaving the Rapid of Long Sault, the 
 course of the river is entirely through British Territory. 
 We passed two small places known respectively as 
 Dickinson's Landing, and St. Regis ; and entered an 
 expansion of the St. Lawrence called Lake St. Francis, 
 which is forty miles long, and contains a number of 
 islands. Leaving this lake behind us, we called in at a 
 small place, called Coteau du Lac, or St. Ignace ; 
 remarkable for its quaint old buildings, which give it all 
 the appearance of an old Norman village. 
 
 We now approached the Cedar Rapids, and the 
 passage through them was particularly exciting ; a 
 p'xuliar motion being felt, as the steamer glided from 
 one ledge to another, as though she were bumping on 
 the rocks, and settling down. 
 
 In close proximity were the Cascade Rapids, after 
 shooting which, we entered another expansion of the 
 river, called Lake St. Louis, and finally arrived off the 
 village of La Chine, adjacent to the Rapids of that name, 
 the most celebrated of the series. The name was given 
 to it by the early settlers who thought they had discovered 
 the route to China. 
 
 Around all these rapids large canals have been 
 constructed, which prevent ihe upward navigation of the 
 river from being impeded. The length of these canals 
 
THE RAPIDS. 
 
 93 
 
 altogether is forty-one miles, with twenty-seven locks, 
 and the cost of construction was enormous ; they reflect 
 great credit on the energy of the people. 
 
 After safely passing the La Chine Rapids, we rapidly 
 approached Montreal, and as we passed under the great 
 Victoria Bridge, the view of the city, with the sun setting 
 behind Mount Royal, was magnificent. 
 
 t r 
 
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Y 
 
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 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 MONTREAL, QUEBEC, AND OTTAWA. 
 
 Position of Montreal — Victoria Bridge -Mont Real— Description 
 of the City — Commerce — Apjjearance of Quebec — Defences — 
 General Features of the City — Great Fire — Plains of Abraham 
 — Falls of the Montmorency — Fall of the Chaudicre — Return 
 to Montreal — Position of Ottawa — Houses of Parliament — 
 \'icinity — Slow Progress of Canada — Want of Energy in 
 Canadians— Notes on Emigration. 
 
 Montreal, the commercial metropolis of Canada, is a 
 nice clean city of 110,000 inhabitants, containing tine 
 blocks of buildings ; but especially notable, for the 
 number, and beauty of its churches. It is situated on 
 the Island of Montreal, which is thirty miles long, and 
 ten broad, and is formed by the junction of the Ottawa, 
 with the St. Lawrence. It is connected with the main 
 land, by the splendid Victoria Bridge, called by Mon- 
 trealers " the eighth wonder of the world." This 
 celebrated bridge is a mile and a half long, or with its 
 approaches, nearly two miles ; is supported upon twenty- 
 four piers, and two abutments of solid masonry ; the 
 span between the centre piers being thirty-three feet. 
 The iron tube, through which the lines are laid, is 
 twenty-two feet high, and sixteen feet wide. This bridge 
 was erected by Robert Stephenson, and though rather 
 
MONTREAL. 
 
 95 
 
 an eyesore, obstructing as it does, the view of the noble 
 river ; is the only means of traffic with the mainland, 
 when the river being frozen over, navigation is impeded. 
 The city is laid out very much like an old French town, 
 but has of late been much improved ; the streets are 
 gradually being widened ; and the city with its fine 
 blocks of buildings, and its numerous public edifices, 
 looks substantial, and shows the evidences of great 
 accumulated wealth. 
 
 The Quays are very fine ; built entirely of solid lime- 
 stone, and extending for several miles, undisfigured by 
 unsightly warehouses, and stores, as is unfortunately so 
 often the case. 
 
 At a short distance from the city is the Mont Real, 
 which gives to the city its name of Montreal, now used in 
 place of the ancient Indian one Hochelaga. From the 
 summit of this beautiful eminence, a magnificent panorama 
 is presented of the city, with its noble quays, and glitter- 
 ing spires. From it can also be seen, the great St. 
 Lawrence, as it winds its way, for miles, through a gently 
 undulating plain, dotted with pretty little villages. ITiis 
 " mountain," as it is locally called, is a general recreation 
 ground for the people of Montreal ; and round the base, 
 and winding around the hill, are beautiful drives. 
 
 St. James, and Notre Dame streets, are the principal 
 promenades, and contain the best retail establishments. 
 St. Paul street, fronting the quays, and extending their 
 
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96 
 
 TRANS- PACIFIC SKKTCHES. 
 
 r 
 
 entire length, is the principal commercial thoroughfare ; 
 whilst other smaller streets, branching off these main 
 arteries, contain large blocks of warehouses. The 
 principal residences are in the suburbs, extending to 
 the foot of the mountain. 
 
 Foremost amongst the public buildings is the Bonse- 
 cours Market, an imposing stone edifice, surmounted by 
 a large dome, which forms a very prominent landmark ; in 
 the upper story is a large hali capable of accommodating 
 four thousand people. The Custom House is a large 
 building with a fine tower ; the Post Oftice in St. James 
 street is simple in style, but very handsome ; the Court 
 House is also a fine edifice of the Ionic order, and 
 contains a law library of six thousand volumes. The 
 Banking Corporations have very imposing edifices, notably 
 the Bank of Montreal and the Merchants' Bank. Other 
 prominent buildings are the City Bank, the Bank of 
 Ontario, the Young Men's Christian Association, the 
 Mechanics' Institute, and the Merchants' Exchange ; 
 these are all ornaments to the city, and would do credit 
 to London, or New York. 
 
 The principal educational institution is M'Gill College, 
 beautifully situated at the foot of the Mount, and 
 possessing a fine museum. The Catholics, the dominant 
 denomination here, possess some grand edifices for 
 educational and other purposes. The Seminary of St. 
 Sulpice is a massive pile of stone buildings, of enormous 
 
kj 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 97 
 
 in 
 
 je, 
 
 ht 
 
 size ; without any claim to arcliitectural beauty, but 
 
 more resembling an immense barracks. The Grey 
 
 Nunnery is another vast building, designed in form of a 
 
 cross. The Black Nunnery, and tne Convent of the 
 
 Holy Name of Mary, are both very extensive. The 
 
 Hotel Dieu, for the cure of the sick, is large and 
 
 imposing, and is, together with St. Patrick's Hospital, 
 
 under the charge of the Sisters of St. Joseph. 
 
 To enumerate the churches would require a volume ; 
 
 they are all fine, and many of them are very elaborate 
 
 stnictures ; but in going through the city a stranger is 
 
 puzzled to imagine where all the funds came from, to erect 
 
 all these costly edifices. Certainly a very large portion of 
 
 the property in, and around Montreal, is owned by the 
 
 Catholic priesthood. The Romanist Cathedral of Notre 
 
 Dame, in the Place d'Armes, off St. James-street, is the 
 
 largest place of worship on the continent ; seating from ten 
 
 to twelve thousand people. It is built of stone, in the Gothic 
 
 style, and has six towers, the two front ones being each 213 
 
 feet high. Its interior decorations are tawdry, and in 
 
 very bad taste ; it possesses however, a fine peal of bells, 
 
 the largest of which, the Gros Bourdon, is said to weigh 
 
 thirteen tons. Even this large structure will be exceeded 
 
 in size, by the new cathedral in course of erection, on 
 
 the plan of St. Peter's in Rome. The Anglican 
 
 Cathedral, though small, is a perfect specimen of 
 
 English-Gothic architecture. Amongst the most note- 
 
 8 
 
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 ■•^^z^^fweicafcfc^cj 
 
 98 
 
 TRANS-rACIFIC SKETCHKS. 
 
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 worthy of the I'^piscopal Churches are Christ Church 
 Cathedral, Trinity, St. Ceorgc's, St. Thomas', and St. 
 Stephen's. The principal Catholic Churches are Bishop's 
 Church, St. Patrick's, which seats five thousand people, 
 and has very fine stained glass windows ; the Church of 
 Oe'su, which has the finest interior in the city ; Recollect, 
 Bonsecours, and St. Mary's. The Nunneries and Semi- 
 naries have also chapels attached. The leading Presby- 
 terian place of worship is St. Andrew's. The Unitarians 
 possess a fine building called the Church of the Messiah. 
 In addition to the above is a legion of other Churches, 
 of all denominations. 
 
 Though Montreal is 600 miles from the sea, its 
 commerce is large; owing to its advant.igeous position 
 at the head of navigation of the St. Lawrence, and of the 
 great chain of improved inland water, which extends 
 from the Lachine Canal, to Lake Superior. It is the 
 principal shipping port of the dominion; its imports in 
 1873 amounted to nine millions sterling, and its exports 
 to five. In addition to this large shipping trade, Mon- 
 treal is the seat of numerous industries; the principal 
 being the manufacture of agricultural implements, axes, 
 saws and tools, steam engines, boots and shoes, paper 
 and furniture, etc. 
 
 I left Montreal for Quebec, by the steamer City of 
 Montreal, in the evening ; and arrived at the latter city 
 early the next morning. These river steamers are most 
 
 I- 
 
 i.. 
 
QUEIJEC. 
 
 99 
 
 commodious, and beautifully fitted up ; and form, in the 
 warm weather, a far more agreeable mode of travelling, 
 than the dusty railway cars. 
 
 The first appearance of Quebec from the river is very 
 grand ; here the banks rise precipitously, and are covered 
 with fine trees, nestling amongst which are numerous 
 private residences. The river widens considerably, and 
 is commanded by the guns of the citadel, perched high 
 up on the height ; from which the ramparts extend round 
 the city, rendering it so strong a fortress, that it has been 
 called the " Gibraltar of America." Since the regular 
 troops who garrisoned it were recalled, and the charge of 
 the fortress assumed by the Canadian Government ; the 
 ramparts are falling into decay, and the guns rusting. 
 The British Government commenced the building of three 
 powerful forts on Point Levi, opposite to Quebec, on the 
 other side of the river ; but left them in an incomplete 
 state, and nothing has been done by the Canadian Govern- 
 ment to finish them. It would consecjuently not be a 
 difficult matter, for an enterprising enemy, to carry Quebec, 
 as it stands, by a coup de main; and this fortress, 
 formerly considered impregnable, in the hands of an 
 enemy commanding the navigation of the St. Lawrence, 
 would virtually place Canada at his feet. 
 
 It seems a pity, that the Canadian Government is so 
 apathetic in this respect ; and the day may come, when 
 it will bitterly rue it. The ramparts enclose a circuit 
 
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 100 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 M I 
 
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 I 
 
 of three miles, within which is the city proper, which with 
 its two suburbs of St. Louis, and St. Johns, is called the 
 Upper Town. The Lower Town is built round the base 
 of the piomontory. The city is situated at the junction 
 of the rivers St. Charles and St. Lawrence ; and has a 
 population estimated at 60,000 ; it is the oldest town in 
 Canada, and ranks in importance after Montreal. The 
 streets of Quebec are very narrow, and steep ; especially 
 those connecting the Upper, with the Lower Town. A 
 large portion of the Upper Town is taken up by the 
 buildings of the great religious corporations of the 
 dominant denomination ; such as the Seminary, Laval 
 University, the Ursulines, the Hotel Dieu, and the ancient 
 Jesuit College ; which latter has more recently been used 
 as a barracks. 
 
 Over the remaining portion of Upper Town, not taken 
 up by the fortifications, are crowded the quaint, mediceval 
 streets, and houses ; the latter built generally of stone, 
 two storeys high, and roofed with a shining tin, which 
 gives the city, when the sun shines on it, a very glittering 
 appearance. The Lower Town is the oldest, and most 
 important ; here are clustered at the foot of the promon- 
 tory, under the guns of the grand battery, 200 feet above, 
 the principal wharves, ferry-landings, commercial houses, 
 and banks. 
 
 The principal shipbuilding yards, a large industry here, 
 are situated on the banks of the St. Charles ; whilst the 
 
p 
 
 QUKIiKC. 
 
 101 
 
 <:ovc.s of the St. Lawrence are covered for miles, with 
 vast rafts of timber ; tlie export of which, constitutes the 
 chief trade of Quebec. Durliani Terrace is an esplanade 
 in Upper Town, on the very brink of the precipice ; it is 
 the great promenade of the inhabitants, and fro n it, the 
 view is magnificent. 
 
 Just before ] arrived, a large and disastrous fire had 
 taken place in Montcalm Ward, in which four hundred 
 houses were destroyed ; the appearance of the burnt 
 district was very saddening. 
 
 On the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, are situated 
 the populous towns of South Quebec, New Liverpool, 
 and Point Levi. 
 
 The public buildings of Quebec are very unpretentious; 
 the churches alone having any claim to architectural 
 beauty. The Marine Hospital, built after the style of 
 the Temple of the Muses, on the banks of the Ilissus, 
 is one of the few public buildings worthy of notice ; as 
 is also the Laval University, an offshoot of the Catholic 
 seminary, an imposing building, or series of buildings ; in 
 connection with which are a fine laboratory, geological, 
 mineralogical, and botanical collections, a museum of 
 zoology, and a library of some fifty thousand books. 
 
 The Market Place in the Upper Town, presents a 
 very interesting appearance, when the peasants, or as 
 they are called, "habitans," bring in their produce for 
 sale. 
 
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 102 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 The drives about Quebec are very beautiful ; all along 
 the St. Louis and St. Foy roads, are fine residences and 
 gardens. 
 
 The Plains of Abraham, memorable for the great 
 victory of General Wolfe, which gave Britain an 
 American Empire ; and in the course of which both 
 General Wolfe, the British, and General Montcalm, the 
 French Commander fell ; are being gradually encroached 
 upon, by the suburbs of St. Louis and St. John ; but 
 enough still remains, to mark the battle field. A modest 
 column has been here erected, by the British army, to 
 the memory of Wolfe, on the spot where he fell ; and an 
 obelisk stands in the town, in honour of Wolfe and 
 Montcalm jointly. 
 
 Near Quebec, are the celebrated Falls of Montmorency, 
 which are wondrously beautiful. The River Montmorency 
 here falls over a ledge of rock 250 feet high, in a volume 
 of snow-white foam, fifty feet wide. The heights on 
 either side are well wooded ; and with Quebec, and the 
 St. Lawrence in sight, form a scene of most surpassing 
 beauty. Near the Falls, are the Natural Steps,— a series 
 of ledges, cut in the rock, by the action of the water ; 
 each step being about a foot high, and as regular as if 
 wrought by human hands. 
 
 Before leaving Quebec, I crossed over to Point Levi > 
 and a pleasant drive brought me to another natural 
 wonder, the Fall of the Chaudiere. Over a mass of 
 
 
OTTAWA. 
 
 103 
 
 *> 
 
 rock, 150 feet high, the water falls in a sheet 350 feet 
 wide ; presenting all the appearance of boiling water, 
 whence its name Chaudiere or Caldron. 
 
 Returning to Montreal by the steamer Cify of Qjicbcc^ 
 in the day time, I had an opportunity of seeing the 
 scenery of the St. Lawrence, on this portion of its long 
 course. For some distance from Quebec, the high, well- 
 wooded banks give the river a very picturescjue appear- 
 ance ; but approaching Montreal, the country becomes 
 flat, and uninteresting. 
 
 I now took the steamer up the River Ottawa, to visit 
 the city of that name, — the political metropolis of the 
 Dominion. This stream flows through thickly-wooded 
 country, with extensive saw-mills on the banks, for the 
 conversion of pine logs into planks, etc. 
 
 Ottawa is situated on the river of that name, at its 
 junction with the Rideau ; the city being on a hill, 
 between the two rivers, and divided into the Upper and 
 Lower Town, by the Rideau Canal. It has a population 
 of 25,000 ; is the centre of the lumber trade of the 
 Ottawa and its tributaries ; and otherwise possesses some 
 extensive flour-mills, and manufactories of agricultural 
 implements, mill machinery, &c. Facing it, on the oppo- 
 site side of the river, are the suburbs of Hull, and New 
 Edinburgh, connected with the city by several bridges. 
 
 The great feature, however, of Ottawa, is that imposing 
 pile, or rather piles of building, — forming as they do 
 
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 104 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 three sides of a quadrangle, — occupied as the Parliament 
 Houses and Government Offices. These buildings are 
 situated on a hill, descending abruptly to the river ; are 
 built in the Italian Gothic style ; and, with their irregular 
 towers, and pinnacles glittering in the sun, form as 
 imposing a structure, as is to be seen in America. The 
 south side of the quadrangle is formed by the Houses of 
 Parliament ; whilst the east and west sides, are taken 
 up by the Departmental Offices. The two wings 
 containing the latter, are quite detached from the front, 
 forming the Parliament Houses ; and there are thus three 
 distinct blocks of building, which together form a pile, of 
 which Canadians may justly be proud ; and a fit abode, 
 for the Legislature of the great colony. 
 
 The interior of the Houses of Parliament is very fine ; 
 the Chambers for the two branches of the Legislature have 
 beautiful stained glass windows, but are still very light. 
 The Chamber of the Commons, to my mind, is far 
 handsomer than its prototype at Westminster ; but like 
 it, its acoustic properties are bad. Facing the Speaker's 
 chair is a fine statue of Her Majesty, and busts of the 
 Prince and Princess of Wales ; and the corridors contain 
 portraits of former Speakers. The Parliament Library 
 is a handsome structure, containing forty thousand 
 volumes. 
 
 The most important edifice in the city, after the 
 Government buildings, is the Catholic Cathedral of 
 
OTTAWA. 
 
 105 
 
 I 
 
 Notre Dame. This is a large stone building, with two 
 spires covered with sliining tin, — poor in style, — but 
 having a very picturesque appearance, when seen from a 
 distance. 
 
 The scenery in the vicinity is very beautiful ; consisting 
 of well-timbered country, watered by several rivers, 
 interspersed with numerous waterfalls. The principal of 
 these are the Falls of the Chaudiere, and the Rideau ; 
 the former being especially beautiful. 
 
 A curious feature of Ottawa, is the turpentiney odour 
 of the atmosphere ; caused by the number of saw-mills. 
 The river from the same cause is covered with a layer of 
 saw-dust. 
 
 On my return to Montreal, I took the train, across the 
 Victoria Bridge, for Plattsburg, — a small town on Lake 
 Champlain, in the State of New York. 
 
 Before leaving Canadian territory, I may mention, that 
 I was disappointed with the slow growth of the country ; 
 which is attributable in a great measure doubtless, to the 
 severity of the winters, during which time, the country is 
 ice-bound ; Halifax being the only port on the Atlantic 
 seaboard, open all the year round. Still Canada, with 
 its fine soil ; its comparatively close proximity to the Euro- 
 pean markets, and consequent immigration advantages; 
 and with its great rivers and lakes, ought to be very much 
 in advance of Australia — a country of so very much 
 more recent colonization. This is, however, by no means 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 the case ; Canada being behind Austraha in every 
 respect, except farming and manufacturing. To my 
 mind, a comparison between the people of the United 
 States, and Canada ; or between Australians, and Cana- 
 dians ; is greatly to the prejudice of the latter. There 
 seems to be a want of energy, in the Canadians, which is 
 attributed mainly to the large French element. With 
 their tine water power, cheap carriage, and moderate cost 
 of labour, manufactures should be more numerous ; but 
 the fact is, the excessive number of wealthy religious 
 corporations absorbs a great portion of the available 
 capital of the country ; which would otherwise be em- 
 ployed, in developing its vast, and as yet barely touched, 
 sources of national wealth. 
 
 Canada has magnificent resources in its immense tracts 
 of fertile country, boundless forests, end great mineral 
 wealth ; what is wanted, is population to develop them. 
 The new Province of Manitoba is alone, supposed to be 
 able to support a population of fifty millions ; and yet 
 comparatively little is done t*" tap the continuous flow of 
 emigration to the States. It cannot be too often iterated, 
 that the want of Canada is the same as that of Australia, 
 viz., small capitalists, skilled mechanics, and practical 
 agriculturists. For such men there is a fine field in those 
 great Colonies ; and to these, my advice is Emigrate. 
 
 With the increasing difficulty experienced, in finding 
 employment for young men, of the middle class ; and in 
 
NOTES ON EMIGRATION. 
 
 107 
 
 ll 
 
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 I 
 
 view of the number, that are earning a precarious liveli- 
 hood as clerks in merchants' offices with small prospect 
 of promotion ; but with all the cares, and heartburnings, 
 incidental to the struggle to keep up a respectable appear- 
 ance, on insufficient means ; would it not be better, to 
 give them a special training, that would enable them to 
 make careers for themselves in the colonies? Repeating 
 what I have said above ; the classes of men most likely 
 to do well in the colonies, are skilled agriculturists, and 
 mechanics, who can at all times earn good wages ; until 
 they accumulate sufficient capital, to start on their own 
 account. Now, the young men who are sent out from 
 England have, as a rule, received a general education, 
 that fits them only for town life ; and they are fortunate if 
 they obtain situations as clerks ; as the colonies are 
 glutted with young men of this class, who widiout capital, 
 have little chance of making positions for themselves. 
 
 Would it not therefore be desirable, in training young, 
 men for colonial life, to do away with the common idea, 
 that manual labour is incompatible with the feelings, and 
 status of a gentleman ? In new countries especially,. 
 where the line of demarcation between the different 
 classes of society, is neither so fine drawn, nor so marked;, 
 labour should be considered ennobling, and a gentleman 
 by education, be no less a gentleman, because he prefers- 
 to guide the plough, rather than keep a set of books in a 
 merchant's office. 
 
I 
 
 11 
 
 io8 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 -t ■ I 
 
 If 
 
 ■> 
 
 
 Would education unfit a man for the drudgery of 
 manual labour? Or, would it rather be a means of 
 giving him, a decided advantage over his less-educated 
 fellow-workers? I imagine, the majority of thinking 
 people will incline to the latter belief; and come to the 
 ■conclusion, that a good education would be an incentive 
 to sobriety, and perseverance ; with the assistance of 
 which, a man would soon push his way in the world ; to 
 say nothing of the many modes of rational amusement, 
 and means of embellishing his life, that education would 
 open up to him. 
 
 If it be granted, that it is desirable to train young men 
 specially for colonial life; the question then arises, how such 
 training could best be attained ? And I reply, by the forma- 
 tion of good schools of agriculture and technology. Instead 
 of sending them to an ordinary school, where they receive 
 a general education ; let it be made easy for fathers, to 
 send their sons to schools, where in addition to general 
 learning, they would be taught a trade ; and then, after 
 serving for a time on a farm, or in a workshop, where 
 they would learn practically what had, at school, been 
 taught theoretically ; they would then become useful 
 additions to young countries, where land can be obtained 
 on easy terms, and the mechanical trades are well remune- 
 rated. With such a general and technical education, and 
 the help of a little capital, they could, in a few years' 
 time, make for themselves very comfortable positions. 
 
 
 r^ 
 
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 ^4^0 
 
 NOTES ON EMIGRATION. 
 
 109 
 
 ^ 
 
 There is a large class of young able-bodied men, whose 
 abilities are not of the highest order ; and who cannot 
 settle down to the drudgery of office routine. For these 
 especially, a good technical education would be of the 
 greatest advantage; and their superabundant energy, 
 which in many cases, unfortunately, leads them into the 
 dissipation of the large cities, could be rendered useful, 
 and profitable, to themselves and others, in pastoral and 
 agricultural pursuits. 
 
 I have been induced to make these remarks, from 
 having seen so many fine young fellows, who have gone 
 out to the colonies with every wish to work ; but not 
 having been able to obtain employment as clerks, the only 
 occupation their education fitted them for; they have 
 squandered their small means, and eventually found 
 themselves a burden on their friends. 
 
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 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON CANADA AND THE 
 COLONLVL QUESTION. 
 
 Provinces of the Dominion — (jovcrnment — I'opulation — Imports 
 and Exports — Treatment of Indians — Loyalty of the People 
 — Withdrawal of the Troops— Ignorance in England on Colonial 
 Affairs — Independence of llie Colonies versus Consolidation of 
 the Empire — Objects of a Customs' Union, 
 
 The Dominion of Canada comprises the various provinces 
 of Quebec, Ontario, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, British 
 •Columbia, and Manitoba, formerly known as tlie Red 
 River Settlement. Newfoundland and Prince Edward's 
 Island, will doubtless also shortly enter the Confederacy. 
 Each Province has its local legislature, which generally 
 consists of two Houses, and a Lieutenant-Governor ; 
 except in the case of Ontario, where only one Chamber 
 •exists. They also return to the General Parliament, 
 which meets at Ottawa ; Senators to the Upper, and 
 Representatives to the Lower House. Senators are 
 appointed by the Crown, for life, and have the title of 
 Honourable. Members of the Executive have seats in 
 either House ; and are dependent upon the support of a 
 majority. The Governor-General is appointed by the 
 Crown. 
 
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 THE DOMINION. 
 
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 Canada Proper consists of the Provinces of Ontario, 
 and Quebec, formerly called Upper, and Lower Canada. 
 The latter is inhabited chietly by French Canadians, a 
 steady, indusirious, but very conservative race ; possessing 
 none of the go-a-liead spirit of British Colonists, and 
 much influenced by their spiritual heads. When the 
 Province was ceded to Britain by treaty, in 1763, its 
 laws and religion were guaranteed. This was very well, 
 so long as the community continued small ; but now the 
 anomaly exists of French law prevailing in the Province of 
 Quebec, which contains the populous Cities of Montreal, 
 and Quebec ; and Knglish law, in the adjoining Province 
 of Ontario. This gives rise to endless litigadon, and tiie 
 laws will no doubt be, in time, assimilated by the Federal 
 Government. 
 
 The population of the Dominion is at present about 
 4,000,000, it having in spite of the small immigration, 
 increased five hundred per cent, within the last half century. 
 The 40,000 French subjects, ceded to Britain by the treaty 
 1763, have by excess of births, over deaths, and aided 
 by a small immigration from France, increased since then 
 to 1,000,000 ; which is scarcely to be wondered at, when 
 the large families of the " habitans " are taken into 
 account. 
 
 Forty-five per cent, of the whole population is 
 Catholic ; the Church of England, the Presbyterians, 
 and the Methodists, together count a similar per-centage ; 
 
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 112 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 whilst the balance is made up of the smaller denomi- 
 nations. 
 
 The exports of Canada amount to ;^i 5,000,000 ; and 
 the imports to ;^24,ooo,ooo. It is curious, that whilst 
 57 per cent, of the impo'ts come from Britain, and 34 
 per cent, from the United States ; the exports are exactly 
 in the inverse ratio, for the States take 57 per cent., and 
 Britain 34 per cent, of her products and manufactures. 
 
 The Mercantile Marine comprises 7,000 vessels of all 
 sizes, with an aggregate tonnage of over a million tons, 
 and an estimated value of seven millions sterling. 
 
 The progress of the colonies, now forming the 
 Dominion, in earlier times more especially, was assisted 
 in a great measure by their security from attack by the 
 Indians ; consequent on the system adopted towards 
 them by the colonists, viz. of making dofia fide bargains 
 with them for their lands ; paying them by annuities, 
 held in trust for them by the Colonial Governments ; 
 and leaving them certain " reserves," to be theirs in 
 perpetuity. This system contrasts favourably, with that 
 in force in the United States ; and the history of the 
 Dominion is not tarnished, like that of the States, by 
 accounts of risings of the Indians, to retaliate upon their 
 spoilers, for the wrongs inflicted upon them. 
 
 The sentiment of loyalty to the Sovereign, and 
 institutions of the Mother country, as in Australia, is 
 very general ; and it seems a pity that so little is done 
 
THE COLONIAL QUESTION. 
 
 113 
 
 in England, to show that the feeling is recognized, and 
 appreciated. On the contrary the tone of the English 
 press generally, is to show the colonies, that they are 
 regarded as a source of weakness ; and it is only the 
 well-known fact, that this opinion is not shared by the 
 bulk of the British people, that holds the colonists to 
 their allegiance. 
 
 It is not my purpose here, to enter into the question of 
 whether the colonies are, or are not, a source of weak- 
 ness ; but it is apparent, that so long as fresh fields are 
 requisite for the surplus population of Britain ; it is far 
 better, that the energy and productive power, thus lost to 
 that country, should go to build up the remoter por- 
 tions of the Empire, that may in time be able to materially 
 assist the Mother country, in an emergency ; than that they 
 should assist in developing the resources of rising young 
 nations, rendered by coldness, and neglect, inimical to 
 Britain, and that might in time, come to regard its 
 downfall, solely in the light of a dangerous competitor 
 removed out of the way. 
 
 It was a mistaken policy of the Home Government to 
 withdraw the troops from Canada and Australia; but 
 more especially so, in the case of the former, situated as 
 it is, in such close proximity to a power whose lust for 
 new territory is proverbial. Apart from the fact that 
 these troops served as a visible proof of Britain's 
 intention to protect her colonies in time of war, and 
 
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 114 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 as a model and standard of precision and regularity, 
 to the militia and volunteers ; but they were also the 
 means of diffusing much useful information about the 
 colonies, and were to colonists a constant reminder of 
 their connection with the Mother country. 
 
 It is a frequent complaint, that much gross ignorance 
 prevails in Britain on colonial affairs ; and it is unques- 
 tionable, that were more prominence given in schools to 
 colonial geography, and other means used, to disseminate 
 information concerning the requirements, resources, and 
 prospects of the Colonies, a large portion of the flow of 
 emigration to the United States might be diverted. 
 
 There is no living man, who has such reason to be 
 proud of his birthright as an Englishman. When he 
 goes to America, and sees that great offshoot of Britain, 
 the United States, and that rising nation, Canada ; when 
 he thinks of the great future of Australia, New Zealand, 
 and the South African colonies ; and remembers our 
 great Indian Empire; he must be dead to every patri- 
 otic feeling, if the knowledge that he belongs to that 
 wonderful Anglo-Saxon race, that has effected such great 
 things, does not cause him a soniiation of pride. And yet, 
 there is a section of politicians in England — let us hope 
 it is a small one — who openly advocate — for the purpose 
 of taking a penny off the income tax— the voluntary 
 giving up of all this. Is the proud boast of Britons, 
 that they possess an empire on which the sun never sets. 
 
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THE COLONIAL QUESTION. 
 
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 to be weighed by a pounds, shillings, and pence 
 standard ? Would it not be better, if those politicians, 
 who advocate the casting adrift of the colonies, were to 
 devote their thoughts to a proper consolidation of the 
 Empire ; by means of which, the resources of every 
 portion might be united for mutual interests and defence. 
 
 Deprive Britain of her colonies, and you reduce her to 
 the status of Holland ; consolidate, and an Empire 
 would be formed, in comparison with which, that of 
 ancient Rome would sink into insignificance. 
 
 The time is coming when this question will be brought 
 home to politicians ; and a decision will have to be 
 arrived at, whether to draw more closely the bonds that 
 unite the colonies with Britain, or to altogether sever 
 them. Certainly the time is not yet ripe for an Imperial 
 Council, to legislate on matters affecting the Empire at 
 large, as has been of late so often suggested ; but a step 
 in that direction might well be taken, by the formation 
 of a Customs' Union between its component members ; 
 by means of which, their various products and manufac- 
 tures could be mutually exchanged, without any of those 
 vexatious hindrances that at present exist. 
 
 This would be a means of knitting more closely 
 together, the different parts of the Empire ; and as the 
 Dominion of Canada, the Australian and South African 
 colonies, increased in population and wealth, then the 
 system could be extended, to enable them to have a 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 voice in matters affecting their general interests and 
 common weal. 
 
 Bearing in mind the rapid, yet steady progress, of the 
 Colonies ; the time cannot be very far distant, when a 
 Confederation, with Britain as the centre, will be deemed 
 advisable ; and it ought to be a source of pride to 
 Britons, to think, what a power for good such a Con- 
 federation would be : how it would spread over the world 
 the British Laws, Language, and Institutions ; and being 
 unaggressive, and devoted to the Arts of Peace ; what a 
 high destiny it might attain ; and how materially it might 
 assist in bringing about, that concord between the 
 Peoples of the World, that should exist. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 
 LAKES GEORGE AND CHAMPLAIN, SARATOGA, 
 TROY, AND ALBANY. 
 
 Plattsburg — Lake Scenery — Fort Ticonderoga — Rogers' Slide — 
 Narrows — Caldwell — N eighbourhood — Glen's Fa) Is — Saratoga 
 Hotels — Springs — Life at Saratoga — Saratoga Lake -City of 
 Troy — Position of Albany — Description of the City — Green- 
 bush. 
 
 A SHORT journey brought me to Plattsburg, a place of 
 some importance, on Lake Champlain, in New York 
 State ; where I took the steamer, to proceed down Lakes 
 Champlain and George ; one of the most beautiful, and 
 enjoyable trips, in America. Lake Chamnlalu is 120 
 miles long, being very much larger than Lake George, 
 and though abounding in glorious views, does not present 
 such lovely bits of scenery, as the latter. After leaving 
 Plattsburg, a fine panoramic view presented itself to our 
 gaze ; blending in rare beauty, the wildest mountain 
 scenery, with placid water-views. The lake expands, as 
 far as the eye can reach ; and its waters are broken by 
 countless islands, and headlands. The important town 
 of Burlington reposes in calm beauty ; and beyond are 
 seen the Green Mountains, their summits clearly defined 
 upon the horizon. On the other side, Lion Mountain, 
 and the numerous peaks of the Adirondacks are visible. 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 A short distance down the Lake, rises a lofty peak of the 
 Green Mountains, called the Ldon Couchant, which by 
 a slight stretch of imagination, takes the form of a lion 
 with head, mane, and paws complete. Here also are 
 situated four small islands, called the Four Brothers, lying 
 almost exactly at the four cardinal points. A delightful 
 trip through these various beautiful scenes brought us to 
 Fort Ticonderoga, a ruin standing on a high rocky 
 eminence. This fort was built by the French in 1756, 
 and was named by them Carillon ; but this has been 
 supplanted by its present Indian appellation of Ticon- 
 deroga, which signifies " noisy," so called from the Falls 
 in the vicinity. Though now a ruin, it has been the 
 scene of many a fierce struggle in former times. In 
 1758, it was attacked by an English force of 16,000 men, 
 under Abercrombie, who was however repulsed, with a 
 loss of 2,000 men ; but in the following year, it was 
 abandoned by the French, and taken possession of by 
 the British. Ticonderoga has been held successively by 
 the French, the British, the French again, the American 
 Colonists, and was finally reduced by General Burgoyne ; 
 when it remained in the hands of the British, until tb'^ 
 termination of the revolutionary war, and was then ceded 
 to ''.e Americans. 
 
 The scenery in the vicinity of this old fortress is very 
 beautiful, and the drive of four miles along the spark- 
 ling stream, that connects Lake Champlain with Lake 
 
 I* 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 119 
 
 George, is delightful. This turbulent little stream, has 
 a descent of 230 feet ; in the course of which, there are 
 two series of lovely cascades, called the Falls of Ticon- 
 deroga. The romantic beauty of these, is however, 
 marred by the factories that have been erected along the 
 banks, near the villages of Alexandria and Ticonderoga. 
 The scenery however, varies continually ; and openings 
 in the foliage, reveal vistas of the lake, with the hills 
 and valleys of Vermont in the background ; whilst the 
 little stream foams, and tumbles, beside us, presenting at 
 every turn, new and beautiful combinations, of rock 
 draped with rich verdure, the colours of which harmonize 
 beautifully with the dark blue of the lake, glimpses of 
 which we are continually obtaining. 
 
 We here embarked on board the steamer Minehaha^ 
 to proceed down Lake George. This lovely lake, only 
 thirty-six miles long, is at an elevation of 320 feet above 
 the sea-level, and is not much wider than a large river. It 
 unites in its scenery, the soft and gentle, with the grand 
 and magnificent. It has been appropriately compared 
 with Loch Katrine, and is in fact the Trossachs on a 
 'irger, and grander scale. The water of this lake is 
 quite clear and pellucid ; and the bottom is composed of 
 a fine yellow sand, which is visible at a great depth. 
 The banks are surrounded by high hills, covered with 
 verdure ; and the waters are studded with numerous 
 charming islets. It seems a pity that the native name cf 
 
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 120 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 Horicon, signifying Silvery Waters, has not been retained ; 
 for it is most appropriate, especially when the moonbeams 
 are reflected on the rippling waters. 
 
 Proceeding on our way down the lake, we soon 
 passed two bold promontories, standing on either shore, 
 called respectively St. Anthony's Nose, and Rogers' 
 Slide. The latter derived its name from a ruse, practised 
 upon the Indians, by Major Rogers, who was escaping 
 from them; by '^"'^^ he persuaded them, that he had 
 actually slid down declivity, which is some 500 feet 
 
 deep, with a precipitous front of naked rock. It 
 happened thus : — The Major was escaping from the 
 Indians, on snow shoes, during the winter; and eluded 
 pursuit, until he reached the brink of this tremendous 
 cliff. Aware that they would follow his track, he 
 descended to the top of the smooth rock ; and casting 
 his knapsack, and haversack of provisions, down upon 
 the ice of the lake ; slipped off his snow shoes, and, 
 without moving them, turned himself about, and put 
 them on his feet again. He then retreated along the 
 southern brow of the rock, and made his way safely 
 down a ravine to the lake below ; where he snatched up 
 his pack, and made his escape, on the ice, to Fort 
 George. The Indians in the meanwhile coming up to 
 the spot, saw two tracks, both apparently approaching 
 the precipice ; and concluded, that two persons had cast 
 themselves down the rock, rather than fall into their 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 121 
 
 hands. Just then, they saw the bold leader of the 
 Rangers making his way across the ice ; and believing, 
 that he had slid down the steep face of the rock, 
 considered him under the special protection of the Great 
 Spirit, and made no attempt at pursuit. 
 
 The next place of interest that we came to was Sabbath 
 Day Point, so called, because here, General Abercrombie, 
 while on his way to attack Ticonderoga, landed on the 
 Sunday, to rest and refresh his army. The scenery here 
 is most lovely ; excelled only by that we now commenced 
 to pass through, — that portion of the lake called the 
 Narrows. The hills at this point, extend into the lake, 
 and contract it considerably ; while their height render 
 this contraction more impressive. The Black Mountain 
 rears its bulky form here, to a height of about 2,200 
 feet ; and around, are the boldest, and most picturesque 
 parts of the shores of Lake George. The water though 
 400 feet deep, is so pellucid, that the eye can penetrate 
 far down into its mysterious depths. The lake is here 
 studded with numerous beautiful islands ; and in passing 
 through this lovely scenery, view follows view, like the 
 moving picture of a panorama ; filling the eye with ever- 
 changing visions of beauty, and raising expectation to its 
 utmost pitch, as headland after headland is passed, and 
 the various lovely scenes are gradually unfolded. The 
 beauties of the Narrows of Lake George are quite 
 beyond the power of language to describe. 
 
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 122 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 For some time we steamed through scenes of ever- 
 changing grandeur and beauty, past islands and islets, 
 of all sizes and forms, some of which are of great extent, 
 level and cultivated ; others rise in rugged cliffs, from 
 the water, their summits crowned with tufts of vegetation ; 
 others again are mere dots, rising but a few feet out of 
 the water ; but all are lovely, and interesting, to the 
 tourist, who has the good fortune to visit Lake George. 
 
 We now rapidly approached the head waters of the 
 lake, and after calling in at numerous small places, all 
 picturesquely situated ; we were landed at Caldwell, a 
 remarkably pretty place, situated on the margin of the 
 lake, at the foot of high hills. I at once proceeded to 
 the fine Fort William Henry Hotel, from the grand 
 piazza of which, the view is most exquisite. There are 
 many fine drives through the beautiful scenery about 
 Caldwell ; and hither, during the summer months, flock 
 numbers of the wealthier Americans, many of whom 
 possess fine summer residences on the shores of the 
 lake, and in the hills. The whole of the district is 
 famous for its historical associations ; here on the placid 
 waters, or along the shore have the pioneers of civilization 
 and the Indian inhabitants met in deadly strife, con- 
 tending for its possession; here, have the British and 
 French forces, encountered each other, in fierce feud ; 
 and here finally, have the British, and American colonists 
 met, to fight out their differences. 
 
 
SARATOGA. 
 
 IStS 
 
 
 123 
 
 There are many ruins of forts, and places memorable for 
 some celebrated encounter, or romantic adventure ; and 
 the interest of the spectator, in these various lovely spots, 
 is enhanced by the associations connected with them. 
 
 After spending a couple of days, amid these romantic 
 scenes — time not permitting a longer stay — the stage- 
 coach conveyed me, over a fine plank-road, and through 
 beautiful scenery, to Glen's Falls, — a rising town on 
 the Upper Hudson. Here the river rushes over a ledgf* 
 of rock, 900 feet wide ; and falls a distance of 70 feet, 
 presenting a very picturesque appearance. It is, however, 
 difficult to imagine this, to be the spot, where Cooper 
 laid most of the scenes in his " Last of the Mohicans ;" 
 for civilization with its usual disregard for sentiment, and 
 its all-conquering utilitarianism ; has covered the banks 
 with saw-mills, and other useful, but decidedly unsightly 
 buildings. 
 
 The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad rapidly con- 
 veyed me to the celebrated watering-place, Saratoga, 
 where all the upper ten of American society flock during 
 the months of July, and August, to drink the waters, to 
 dance, and flirt; for in Saratoga, in these consist the 
 whole duty of man, and more especially so, of woman. 
 Although at the time of my arrival, the great influx of 
 visitors had not yet set in, it was no difficult matter 
 to form an idea how gay the place must b?;, in the height 
 of the season. 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 Saratoga contains a population of 9,000 ; but during 
 the months of July and August, this number is increased 
 by visitors to 30,000. The hotels are colossal; the 
 principal being the Grand Union, the Congress Hall, 
 and the United States, which are only open for four 
 months out of the year, and will alone repay a visit to 
 Saratoga. The Grand Union has over a mile in length 
 of piazzas, two miles of halls, ten acres of carpets, and 
 eight hundred bedrooms. These hotels are, in spite of 
 their great size, very comfortable ; and their proprietors 
 cater for the amusement of their guests, during the 
 season, by having good bands, and balls every night. 
 They will each accommodate from a thousand to fifteen 
 hundred guests. The arrivals at Saratoga, during the 
 season, often amount to a thousand daily. 
 
 And now a few words about the Springs, which are 
 chalybeate or acidulous saline, according to the relative 
 proportion of their particles ; the constituent ones being 
 carbonate of soda, chloride of sodium, carbonate of 
 magnesia, hydriodate of soda, silica and alumina, 
 carbonic acid gas, with occasional traces of iodine and 
 potassa. The principal are Congress and Columbia 
 Springs, both situated in a tastefully laid out little park, 
 and over them elegant light structures have been erected ; 
 Excelsior Spring, situated in Excelsior Park; High 
 Rock Spring, situated on the top of a rock, whence its 
 name; the Hamilton and Hathorn Springs, in the 
 
THE SPRINGS. 
 
 125 
 
 centre of the town ; the Washington, United States, and 
 Empire Springs ; Red Spring, so called from the colour 
 of its waters when agitated ; the Star, Eureka, and White 
 Sulphur Springs. Putnam Spring is used for bathing 
 purposes, being chalybeate. The most remarkable is the 
 Geyser, or Spouting Spring, the waters of which spout 
 up high in the air, through a shaft sunk 140 feet through 
 the solid rock ; and are very saline, and only fourteen 
 degrees above zero. The Glacier Spring is another 
 geyser, in close proximity to it. 
 
 Life in Saratoga, in the great hotels, may be summed 
 up in a few words. It is ephemeral, only lasting a 
 couple of months ; and during that period wealth, beauty, 
 fashion, and other ingredients not so desirable, meet and 
 intermingle, in the whirl and excitement of the ballroom 
 at night ; visits to the Springs in the morning ; and 
 promenades or drives, in the afternoon. The extrava- 
 gance of the present fashion of ladies' dress, is here seen 
 in all its ungraceful, and disfiguring effects. Here, really 
 pretty girls of eighteen or twenty, may be noticed, 
 painted, and powdered, and with their figures so 
 distorted ; that instead of natural youth, and comeliness, 
 they present an appearance, more closely approaching 
 decrepitude, and ugliness. 
 
 One of the principal jaunts in the neighbourhood, is 
 the fine six mile drive to Saratoga Lake, a charming 
 spot, where during the season, many regattas take place. 
 
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 126 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 Taking train again, a pleasant journey through some 
 of the fine midland counties of the Empire State,— as the 
 State of New York is called, brought me to the important 
 city of Troy. 
 
 This remarkably pretty town contains many fine public 
 edifices, churches, and private residences ; and has a popu- 
 lation of 45,000. It is the seat of some very extensive 
 manufactures, the principal of which are large iron-works, 
 and factories for the manufacture of carriages, boots and 
 shoes, and hosiery. 
 
 A notable feature, and a prominent landmark, is the 
 Theological Seminary of St. Joseph, a fine structure of 
 the Byzantine order of architecture, on Mount Ida. 
 The city also contains the great Watervliet Arsenal, 
 where are kept many relics of the battles that were 
 fought around Saratoga and Yorkton. Six miles from 
 Troy i« the city of Albany, the capital of the Empire 
 State, built on the River Hudson, at the head of its tide- 
 water. 
 
 Albany, after Jamestown in Virginia, is the oldest 
 settlement in the original thirteen States. It was 
 founded by the Dutch ii. 161 2, and named by them 
 William stadt, until 1664, when it fell into the hands of 
 the British, and was re-named by them Albany, in honour 
 of the Duke of York and Albany, afterwards James II. 
 
 The city has a population of 80,000, and is a place of 
 great commercial importance, from its position on the 
 
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• . 
 
 ALBANY. 
 
 127 
 
 !i 
 
 
 , 
 
 Hudson, and its prr .imity to the great Erie and Cham- 
 plain Canals ; the former of which gives it the command 
 of a fine water-way to the west ; and the latter, facilities 
 of cheap water carriage to the north. It is also the 
 centre of a large railway system. 
 
 Albany is situated on a high ridge, and with its 
 numerous spires, presents a very imposing appearance, 
 when seen from the opposite side of the river. State- 
 street, its principal thoroughfare, ascends from the 
 water's edge to the height, on which «;tand the Capitol, 
 and principal public buildings. 
 
 The present State House is a plain, unpretentious 
 building j but the new Capitol now in course of erection, 
 in close proximity to it, will be, when completed, the 
 finest edifice in the whole country ; with the exception 
 alone of the Federal Capitol at Washington. 
 
 The State Library is a fine building, containing 90,000 
 volumes ; and amongst other historical relics and 
 curiosities, the original Arnold and Andre Correspon- 
 dence. 
 
 The City Hall is a beautiful white marble structure, 
 with a fine portico, supported upon six Ionic columns. 
 
 Albany possesses several public libraries, museums, 
 and establishments devoted to educational purposes; 
 amongst the latter may be mentioned the Normal School, 
 for the training of teachers. Its churches are numerous, 
 and many of them are handsome structures. 
 
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 128 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 In the western part of the city is Washington Park, 
 which forms an agreeable recreation ground ; and bids 
 fair in time, to become a great ornament to it. 
 
 On the opposite side of the Hudson, and connected 
 with the City proper, by means of a fine iron bridge, is 
 the pretty and populous suburb of Greenbush. 
 
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 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 TIIK HUDSON RTVKR, WKST POINT. 
 
 ScKNKRY of llic Hudson — roui,'likccpsu; — Devil's Danskammcr — 
 Newljurj; 15ay — West Point — Military Colk\L;c — Xoniination of 
 Cadets — Training— Discipline — Cozzens- P>ulteiniilk Falls — 
 Gibraltar — Sing-Sing — Sunnysiiles — 'I'he Palisades — Arrival 
 at New York. 
 
 At Albany, I embarked on one of the magnificent 
 Hudson steamers, for the trip down the river to New 
 York. The scenery of tlie Htidson lias been so often 
 described, that its beauties have now a world-wide 
 reputation, and attract crowds of tourists. It is often 
 compared with the Rhine, and by many thought to 
 exceed that river in grandeur ; but I cannot concur in 
 this view. There are spots of rare beauty, such as 
 West Point, which favourably compare with any portion 
 of the Rhine scenery ; but the greater width of the 
 Htidson, does not compensate, for its deficiency in those 
 romantic hills crowned with castellated ruins, which are 
 so numerous on the banks of its rival, and which 
 constitute one of its chief attractions. Still it is a grand 
 river, and the trip from Albany to New York, is most 
 enjoyable. 
 
 From Albany to Hudson, a rising little town of some 
 13,000 inhabitants, situated on the east bank of the 
 
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 130 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 river, forty miles distant from the former, there is a degree 
 of sameness in the scenery ; but thence to Poughkeepsie, 
 the banks are lined with fine country residences, their 
 lawns sloping down to the water's edge. Poughkeepsie 
 lies nearly mid-way between Albany and New York; being 
 distant from the former place eighty miles, and from the 
 latter seventy-five. It is beautifully situated on hills over- 
 looking the river, and was originally a Dutch settlement. 
 It has now become a fine town with a population of over 
 20,000 souls, containing several fine educational establish- 
 ments, the best known being Vassar College for females. 
 
 After leaving Poughkeepsie, the scenery became much 
 finer; and for some time we journeyed through pretty 
 country, passing many important, and pleasantly situated 
 villages. The most stiiKing feature, on this part of the 
 route, is a broad flat platform of rock, jutting out into 
 the river, called the Devil's Danskamiiier, or dancing 
 •chamber; used until recently by the Indians, in the 
 J .^rformance of their religious rites. 
 
 We now entered the broad expanse of Newburg Bay, 
 and soon arrived at a small place called Cornwall, much 
 visited by tourists in summer time, being cool, near AVest 
 Point, and having many lovely drives in the neighbour- 
 hood. We pursued our way across the Bay, rntil we 
 came to its outlet ; with the Boterberg Mountains rising 
 on the one side, and Breakneck Rock on the other ; and 
 with mountains, and cliffs surrounding us on all sides, 
 
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MILITARY COLLEGE. 
 
 131 
 
 
 seeming to shut us in the basin of the lake, lying . t .neir 
 feet, from which there appeared to be no outle*- 
 
 The principal of these mountains is Cro'-Nc^., which 
 rises abruptly from the water's edge, to a height of 1,500 
 feet : and being covered with verdure, presents a charming 
 appearance. This is one of the most picturesque spots on 
 the Hudson. Continuing on our course, past overhanging 
 clifts, with their background of hills ; we soon came to 
 West Point, which, from its beautiful position, and 
 historical associations, is undoubtedly the most interesting 
 of all the many charming places on the river. 
 
 In order to see the famous Military College here, I 
 landed, and spent a most delightful day, amongst the 
 great natural beauties of AVest Point. The College 
 buildings arc of stone, built on a platform of rock 150 
 f et above the river ; and are approached by a fine road 
 cut through the solid rock. 
 
 The view from this platform is splendid : cliffs rise 
 abruptly from, and high hills undulate to the water's edge; 
 and the river itself is covered with the white sails of 
 numerous craft ; whilst in the distance are seen the 
 Catskill Mountains. 
 
 The College buildings comprise a large and somewhat 
 imposing barracks for the accommodc^'ion of the cadets; 
 a chapel and library, a mess-room, an observatory, labora- 
 tory, and riding-school. In front of the College is a fine 
 piece of ground, on one side of which, are several pretty 
 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 villas inhabited by the professors ; and the ground itself 
 descends through woods to the river. Here on the 
 slope, and along the banks of the river, many pretty 
 winding walks have been made, one being denominated 
 " Flirtation Walk" ; and these certainly form a charming 
 adjunct to the place. In various spots, adding to the 
 general picturesqueness, are erected batteries, and 
 trenches, for the instruction of the cadets. 
 
 The nominations to the College are made by IMembers 
 of the House of Representatives, and the course of study 
 extends over four years, during which time a cadet is 
 taught a knowledge of all branches of the profession; so 
 that, if he be recommended for a commission, and 
 appointed say to a cavalry regiment ; his knowledge of 
 infantry tactics, of artillery practice, and of engineering, 
 may stand him in good stead in after life. The value of 
 this training was shown in the late civil war, during the 
 course of which, nearly all the men who came to the front, 
 were graduates of West Point. 
 
 The cadets wear a grey uniform ; and the discipline 
 maintained is strict, in fact, it seems to be unnecessarily 
 severe. For the first two years after their admission, 
 cadets are not allowed to go outside the College limits ; 
 they are then permitted to visit their friends for two 
 months, after which vacation they return for another term 
 of two years. The use of beer, wine, spirits, and tobacco, 
 is prohibited ; and to prevent the possibility of smuggling 
 
 ■ 
 

 COZZliNS. 
 
 ^3i 
 
 the latter, cadets were forbidden the use of pockets in 
 their uniforms. This stringent regulatiDn has of late 
 been modified, as it was found to act detrimentally ; 
 inasmuch, as after a forced abstinence from indulgences, 
 that might otherwise have had little charm for him, a 
 graduate, on leaving College, and finding himself placed 
 beyond this forced restriction, usually rushed into the 
 opposite extreme of over-indulgence. The cadets number 
 250, and the entire cost of study is defrayed by the State. 
 
 Reluctantly I left West Point, and again taking the 
 day steamer, proceeded on my way down the river to 
 New York. A short distance from West Point is a 
 fashionable place of summer resort called Cozzens, 
 where a fine hotel is erected, which during the hot 
 months, is crowded with visitors. This hotel is perched 
 on the top of a high cliff, the highest f^r a great distance 
 around; and nothing can be more pictures(|ue than its 
 position high up in the air, looki.i .: down on the noble 
 river. It is several hundred feet above th ■ water ; but 
 so perpendicular are the rocks, that it appears double 
 the height. The view of this building crowning the 
 beetling cliff, which rises abruptly out of water, may well 
 be compared with the most beautiful Rhine scenery. 
 
 Near Cozzens are the Buttermilk Falls, formed by a small 
 river rushing down the side of a hill, a distance of 100 feet, 
 and falling into the river below, in a sheet of white foam. 
 
 Another spot of unequalled grandeur is at a place 
 
 
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 TRANS PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 111 
 
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 called Gibraltar : here the river makes a sudden bend to 
 the west, and the Dunderberg Mountain lifts its towering 
 head, just behind the prettily situated village. Close by- 
 is the great rock promontory of Anthony's Nose, rising 
 1,300 feet out of the water, and forming one of the most 
 noticeable features of the river scenery. Opposite, on 
 the other side of the river, protected by two strong forts, 
 a creek empties itself into the river, of such depth that 
 the largest ships could ride at anchor in it ; and in close 
 proximity is the beautiful lona Island, forming altogether 
 as charming a view as could anywhere be seen. 
 
 We had now passed through the highlands, and the 
 scenery, which for the last sixteen miles had been truly 
 grand, now became more tame. Sing-Sing was soon 
 reached : here is erected the great State Prison of New 
 York State, which is visible from the river, is built about 
 200 feet above its level, and accommodates one thousand 
 inmates. On the opposite bank of the river is Rockville, 
 notable for its ice stores : here immense quantities of ice 
 are cut out of a lake of fresh water in the neighbour- 
 hood, and stored for the supply of New York City. The 
 consumption of ice in this country is enormous. As we 
 steamed past, being a hot day, it was very refreshing to see 
 the great blocks of ice pushed down inclined planes, into 
 lighters specially constructed for their conveyance. Hard 
 by is theCroton Lake, which supplies New York with water, 
 conducted through an aqueduct thirty-three miles long. 
 
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 I 
 
MANHATTAN ISLAND. 
 
 135 
 
 
 The private residences on the heights now became 
 more numerous, and though many of the marble and 
 stone buildings are more pretentious, none are so pleasing 
 as the charming cottage called Sunnysides, formerly the 
 residence of Washington Irving, and the place where 
 most of his works were written. 
 
 Before approaching New York we passed that most 
 remarkable, but singularly beautiful rock formation 
 called the Palisades. These Palisades form an unbroken 
 line for fifteen miles, of bold perpendicular trap rock, 
 columnar in formation, from three to six hundred feet high ; 
 which presents a solid front to the river. This rocky barrier 
 is so effective, that the Hackensack River runs parallel 
 with the Hudson, but at a higher level, for thirty miles, 
 and at a distance of only two to three hundred yards. 
 
 We now approached Manhattan Island, upon which is 
 built the City of New York, and as we steamed down 
 the Spuyten Duyvel, — a branch of the Hudson, — 
 separating New York from its dependency, Jersey City ; 
 the change from the quietude of the scenery through 
 which we had been passing, and in which I had for 
 some time been lingering ; to the crowded shores, and 
 busy waters ; where the noisy hum of active life 
 resounded, and where the very atmosphere seemed to 
 grow thicker, and more oppressive over this human hive ; 
 I involuntarily sighed for the quiet of the rural scenes, 
 through which we had recently passed. 
 
 
 i 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 NEW YORK CITY, IJKOOKLVN, AND LONG BRANCH. 
 
 Position of New York.- Description of the City — Harbour — 
 Selfishness of Americans — Streets — Scjiiares — Comnuniication 
 within the City — I'ul)lic liuildings — Chm-clies — Kthicatioual 
 Institutions — Central Park — Theatres — Imports and Exports — 
 Brooklyn — Prospect Park — Greenwood Cemetery — Atlantic 
 Dock — Plymouth Church — the Rev, Henry \\'ard Beecher — 
 Long Branch — Life at Long Branch. 
 
 The City of New York, the commercial metropolis of the 
 United States, and the largest city in the Western 
 Hemisphere, is situated at the mouth of the Hudson, and 
 occupies the whole extent of Manhattan Island ; which 
 is thirteen and a half miles long, by a width varying from 
 a few hundred yards to two miles and a quarter. It also 
 takes up a portion of the mainland, and three small 
 islands in East River — viz., Randall's, Ward's, and Black- 
 well's. The area of New York is forty-one and a half 
 square miles, of which twenty-one and a half are on Man- 
 hattan Island, nineteen on the mainland, and about three 
 quarters of a mile on the smaller islands. Its greatest 
 length is sixteen miles, and its greatest width four and a 
 half. It is separated from the City of Brooklyn by a 
 branch of th^ Hudson called East River ; and from its 
 
ill. 
 
 NEW YOKK. 
 
 137 
 
 Other leading dependency, Jersey City, by the Hudson 
 proper. The older portion of the city is irregularly laid 
 out ; the larger and newer portion is mere regular. The 
 streets running the length of the island are called 
 avenues, and are numbered from L'irst -.-'ywards ; the 
 cross-thoroughfares bear the name of streets, and are 
 numbered from First and go up to 225111. The buildings 
 between two streets form a block, and twenty-one blocks, 
 including the roadway, measure a mile. 
 
 I was much struck with the English appearance of the 
 city, and subse(|uendy observed this to be a feature of all 
 the great cities of the Eastern States ; notably of Boston, 
 Baltimore, and I'hiladelphia. 
 
 Places like Chicago and San Francisco, being of much 
 more recent settlement, have an individuality of their 
 own ; but the large towns of the New England and other 
 Eastern States, being substantially built, and having 
 in parts already an old appearance, greatly resemble large 
 English cities. In New York, especially, the streets near 
 the wharves, in the older portion of the city, are very dirty, 
 and have already acquired a somewhat anti(|uated look. 
 
 The Harbour is remarkably fine, and picturescjue. The 
 outer bar is at Sandy Hook, distant eighteen miles from 
 the Battery at the extreme end of Manhattan Island ; 
 and is crossed by two channels, either of which will 
 admit vessels of the heaviest draught. Entering the Bay 
 from the ocean, the Narrows are passed ; and vessels 
 
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 138 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 then sail between Staten, and Long Islands ; passing 
 which, the batteries of Fort Richmond, and Fort 
 Tompkins, are seen on the one side ; and Fort Hamilton, 
 and Fort Lafayette, on the other. The vessel then 
 enters the Harbour ; the whole of the city being spread 
 out like a panorama in front, with Brooklyn on the right, 
 and Jersey City on the left. 
 
 The population of New York now consists of one 
 million souls ; while Brooklyn contains nearly half-a- 
 million more. It is computed, that on every working 
 day, there are a million and a half of people congregated 
 in the city. 
 
 Broadway, the principal thoroughfare, is eighty feet 
 wide ; it is six miles long, and contains most of the 
 best retail establishments, the number and size of which 
 are very great. The leading hotels with a few exceptions 
 are also situated in this splendid street ; and it is a pre- 
 vailing habit, to sit on chairs placed on the footpath, in 
 front of them, greatly to the inconvenience of passers-by. 
 This selfish attention to individual comfort, and total 
 disregard of that of others, seems to be, by the way, 
 very common with the Eastern Americans. So far, in 
 fact, is this habit carried, that it becomes a want of 
 common politeness ; for it is a daily occurrence, to see a 
 lady enter a car filled with men and youths, none of 
 whom, would think it necessary to rise, in order to give 
 her a seat. 
 
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NEW YORK. 
 
 ^39 
 
 
 Wall Street, running from Broadway to the East River, 
 about half-a-mile in length, is the financial centre of the 
 City ; it contains most of the Banks, the Custom House, 
 and Treasury. 
 
 The Bowery, the principal street in the eastern part of 
 New York, is a continuation of Third Avenue ; and is a 
 fine, wide, and busy thoroughfare. 
 
 Fifth Avenue is the Belgravia of New York, almost 
 exclusively devoted to private residences, of the better 
 class ; and also containing some of the finest places of 
 worship in the city. These residences very much 
 resemble the second-class houses, in the West-end of 
 London ; but have a greater number of steps in front 
 called " the stoop," upon which, in the hot weather, the 
 whole family may be seen sitting, in the cool of the 
 evening. On Sundays, after Morning Service, numbers 
 of well-dressed people congregate in this avenue, to 
 promenade, and exhibit their elaborate toilets ; and it 
 then presents a gay, and animated scene. 
 
 Maddison, and Lexington Avenues, are scarcely inferior 
 to Fifth Avenue, in the number of their private residences. 
 Park Avenue is a very broad street, with fine houses; 
 and for some distance is tunnelled, to allow the street 
 cars to pass underneath ; and where this occurs, the 
 openings for admitting light, and air, to the tunnel, are 
 surrounded by little greens in the centre of the avenue, 
 which give it a unique, and very pretty appearance. 
 
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140 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 Large as the city is, it boasts but few squares, which 
 would contribute so much to its heaUh, and beauty, and 
 serve to reUeve the monotony, of the miles of bricks and 
 mortar ; and the few it possesses, have a very untidy 
 look. Maddison Square on Broadway, is the most 
 fashionable of these reserves : it covers six and a half 
 acres of tastefully laid out ground, and contains a fine 
 monument to General Worth, the hero of the Mexican 
 War. Union S([uare, also situated on Broadway, is an 
 oval of three and a half acres, well laid out, with fine 
 trees ; and contains a fine fountain in the centre, a 
 bronze equestrian statue of Washington, and a monument 
 to Lincoln. 
 
 Mount Morris Square, on Fifth Avenue, comprises 
 twenty acres, with a rocky eminence in the centre ; round 
 which a walk winds to the summit. The Battery, at the 
 south extremity of the city, looking out upon the Bay, 
 embraces twenty-one acres, laid out in walks, &c., and 
 protected by a granite sea-wall. It w^as the site of a fort 
 in the early days of New York, and later was surrounded 
 by the residences of the wealthy ; now, this portion of 
 the city in which it is situated is wholly devoted to 
 business purposes. In close proximity used to be the 
 well-known building called Castle Gardens, which has 
 recently been destroyed by fire. This was for a long 
 time past, the place where immigrants were lodged on 
 arrival ; to prevent their falling into the hands of the 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 141 
 
 
 many land-sharks, who woulJ otherwise liave pUmdercd 
 them of their Httle all. 
 
 Washington Sciuare covers eight acres ; Stuyvesant 
 Square four and a half acres ; and with ( iramercy Park, 
 and Reservoir Park, complete the number of New Vork 
 Squares ; which are quite inadequate to the requirements 
 of the city. 
 
 Every succeeding year more clearly demonstrates the 
 utility of squares in densely populated cities, to act as 
 breathing places, or metaphorically speaking, as lungs. 
 
 Communication with the different parts of the city is 
 effected by means of a good tram-car system ; rails being 
 laid through most of the streets, except Broadway, where 
 omnibusses take the place of the tram-cars. There is 
 also an elevated railway, raised above the streets, so as 
 not to interfere with the ordinary traffic ; the rails being 
 laid on iron columns twenty feet high. This railway 
 runs from Thulieth Street to the Wharves ; and the 
 carriages resemble those of an ordinary railway ; except, 
 that they are lower in the middle than at the ends, thus 
 giving them, it is said, a better grip of the rails. Up to 
 the present no accident has happened, and the system is 
 being gradually extended. 
 
 For a city of such size and importance New York is 
 very deficient in fine public buildings. Many of the best 
 edifices appear to have been raised by private enterprise. 
 The finest public building is the Post-oftice, in the mixed 
 
 
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 142 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKE'rCHKS. 
 
 Doric and Renaissance style, four stories higli with a 
 mansard roof, and several louvre domes. It is a noble 
 building, and well adapted to the enormous postal 
 business carried on in it. 
 
 The City Hall is a handsome structure in the Italian 
 style, three storeys high, built of marble ; the fa(;ade 
 being lined with Ionic and Corinthian columns, in the 
 style so prevalent in American public edifices. 
 
 The Court House is a plain and massive Corinthian 
 building ; but it is not yet completed. It is built of 
 white marble ; the main entrance being approached by 
 thirty broad steps, ornamented with massive marble 
 columns. The cost of this building has been $1 2,000,000 ; 
 in consequence of the great frauds connected with its 
 erection. "Boss" Tweed is alone supposed to have 
 netted half the total cost. 
 
 The Tombs is a granite prison, of pure Egyptian style 
 of architecture, and possesses an imposing but gloomy 
 entrance. In this building the magistrates sit daily, for 
 the trial of minor offences. 
 
 The Custom House is a plain building, noteworthy for 
 the immense size of the columns, which support the pedi- 
 ment of the front elevation. Under the dome in the 
 interior is the rotunda ; around the sides of which are 
 eight lofty columns of Italian marble with carved Corin- 
 thian capitals. 
 
 The Treasury is a good specimen of Doric architecture, 
 
 
■i, 
 
 NEW VUUK.. 
 
 143 
 
 built of wliitc marble, and approached by a flight of 
 eighteen marble steps ; it contains a fine rotunda, sup- 
 ported by sixteen Coniithian columns. 
 
 The Ecjuitable Life Insurance Office, the Park IJank, 
 the New York "Herald" Olfice, the "Tribune" Uuilding, 
 the Drexel Building, the Staats Zeitung Building, and the 
 New York Life Insurance Office, are amongst the most 
 prominent, of the private edifices in New York. Stewart's 
 retail store is a fine building, five storeys high, occupying 
 the entire block between Ninth and Tenth Streets, and 
 Broadway and Fourth Avenue. 
 
 The Masonic Temple is a fine granite building of five 
 storeys, surmounted by a dome. 
 
 New York contains twelve public libraries ; the prin- 
 cipal of which are the Astor, the Mercantile, and the 
 Lenox. The first contains 148,000 volumes, and was 
 founded, and endowed, by Jacob Astor, and his son 
 William Astor; the second, contains 145,000 volumes; 
 the Lenox is a fine building, but the library has not yet 
 been opened. 
 
 The Metropolitan Museum of Art has a fine collection 
 of paintings by the old masters, of statuary, pottery, 
 ceramic-ware, coins, armour, and antique and mediaeval 
 curiosities. It also contains the famous Cesnola collection 
 of Cypriote antiquities. 
 
 The National Academy of Design is a unique building 
 of gray and white marble, and bluestone ; designed after 
 
144 
 
 TRANS -PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
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 a palace in Venice, in the Moresque style. It contains a 
 splendid collection of Egyptian antiquities, and Nineveh 
 relics. In it is exhibite^evcry spring a collection of the 
 recent works of American artists, j-^- 
 
 There are in New York 370 churches, belonging to 
 the different denominations ; some of which are very fine. 
 Trinity Church, opposite Wall-street, is one of the oldest 
 and most important; it '^j a fine building, very cathedral- 
 like in appearance. The land for some distance down 
 Broadway was granted to the Church by Queen Anne in 
 1705, and has so increased in value, that this Church has 
 become the wealthiest in America. Attached to it is a 
 churchyard, where repose the remains of Captain 
 Lawrence of the Chesapeake, Emmett the Irish patriot, 
 and other distinguished men. St. George's Church in 
 the vicinity of Union Square, is a handsome edifice, built 
 of stone, with two lofty towers. Its interior is very 
 beautiful ; and it is said to accommodate a greater number 
 of people, than any other church in the city. Grace 
 Church, situated at the sharp turn of Broadway, is the 
 fashionable place of worship. It is a remarkably pretty 
 structure, and, with its parsonage, forms a nice relief to 
 the monotony of the surrounding masses of brick and 
 mortar. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Patrick, 
 in course of erection, will be, when completed, one of the 
 finest ecclesiastical edifices in the world, being built 
 entirely of white marble, with beautiful and delicate 
 
 
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NEW YORK. 
 
 145 
 
 tracery, resembling in much the celebrated Ivlilan 
 Cathedral. 
 
 The Temple Emanuel, the principal Jewish place of 
 worship, is the finest specimen of Saracenic architec- 
 ture in America. Its internal decorations are magnificent, 
 the colours being beautifully toned, harmonizing well, and 
 a general appearai>ce of richness pervading the whole. 
 
 The public institutions of the city, both for educational 
 and charitable purposes, are numerous. The principal 
 educational establishments are the University of New 
 York, a fine marble gothic structure ; Columbia College, 
 standing in fine grounds, and containing a library and 
 museum ; the College of the City of New York, a free 
 institution, forming part of the national school system ; 
 the Normal College, for the training of teachers for the 
 state schools, a fine building in the secular-gothic style ; 
 and the Cooper Institute, founded by Peter Cooper. 
 This latter contains a free library and reading room, 
 free schools of art, of wood engraving, of photography, 
 and telegraphy for women ; and free night schools for 
 both sexes. It has nearly 3,000 students, and is a most 
 meritorious and praiseworthy institution ; in its beneficial 
 eff(;'^ts, perhaps nowhere ecjualled. 
 
 There are numerous hospitals and asylums for the 
 blind, the deaf mutes, and the insane. The principal 
 l)lace for the cure of the sick is Bellevue Hospital, which 
 accommodates 1,200 patients. 
 
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 146 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 A description of New York, however short and 
 limited, would be altogether incomplete without some 
 mention of one of its best features — viz., Central Park. 
 This place of recreation is undoubtedly one of the largest 
 and finest in the world, occupying a rectangular area of 
 843 acres. 
 
 In this park, in addition to several fine lakes, are the 
 two Croton Reservoirs, covering an area of 140 acres; the 
 remaining ground being laid out to form ten miles of 
 carriage drives, and thirty miles of footpaths, and is 
 adorned with numerous bridges, statues, and arbours. 
 The Mall, the principal walk, is bordered by a double 
 row of stately elms ; and contains bronze statues of 
 Shakespeare, and Sir Walter Scott. Central Lake, 
 reached from the terrace, by descending a broad flight of 
 steps, is the loveliest spot in the park ; and the crowd of 
 small yachts and pleasure boats, always to be seen 
 on it, assists in making up a very gay, and animated 
 scene. Central Park is a place of which New Yorkers 
 may justly be proud ; and as public conveyances can 
 always be obtained at a small charge, strangers can easily, 
 and without fatigue, see all its points of attraction. 
 
 Some of the theatres are remarkably fine, especially the 
 Grand Opera House, and the Academy of Music. Booth's 
 is handsomely decorated, and Wallack's, and Fifth 
 Avenue are also fine houses. The nine or ten others are 
 second-rate. 
 
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BROOKLYN. 
 
 U7 
 
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 The imports of New York amount to seventy-nine, and 
 the exports to seventy-one milUons sterUng. More than 
 half the foreign trade of the United States, is carried on 
 through this port ; and two-thirds of all the Customs 
 duties, levied by the Government, are here collected. 
 
 Brooklyn, though a distinct city with separate munici- 
 pal officers, is generally regarded as a dependency of 
 New York ; many of the merchants having their counting- 
 houses in the latter, and residing in the former. It covers 
 an area of twenty square miles, and contains a population 
 of half-a-million. It is often called the " City of Churches " 
 on account of the great number of its religious edifices ; 
 and it otherwise possesses many fine public buildings. 
 Prominent amongst the latter, are the City Hall, a marble 
 edifice of the Ionic order ; the Court House, another 
 marble building of Corinthian architecture, with a fine 
 portico and dome ; the Academy of Design ; and the 
 Mercantile Library ; the latter, a fine Gothic building, 
 with reading-rooms, and 40,000 volumes. 
 
 Prospect Park is a large, and fine recreation-ground, 
 covering 550 acres of ground. The view from here, of 
 the cities of New York, and Brooklyn ; of the harbour, 
 with its shipping ; and the rivers, with their islands ; is 
 very fine. It is beautifully laid out, somewhat after the 
 style of Central Park ; but is more densely timbered, and 
 its large meadows, shut in by wooded hills, give it a 
 distinct individuality. 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 Greenwood Cemetery is however, the lion /^ar excel- 
 lence of Brooklyn ; and nothing better illustrates, the 
 decidedly aristocratic tendencies of the better, or wealthier 
 class of Americans ; for here, with a profusion quite 
 unknown in any part of Europe, millions of dollars have 
 been expended, in adorning the graves of the dead. 
 
 The Cemetery itself, is a fine park of 413 acres^ 
 ornamented with lake, fountains, &c. ; and presenting a 
 varied surface of hill, dale, and plain, traversed by 
 seventeen miles of carriage drives, and fifteen miles of 
 footpaths, shaded by fine trees. The cost of allotments 
 in the Cemetery is so high, that they are only available 
 to the wealthier class ; and as it seems to be the custom, 
 for one family to vie with the other, for the possession of 
 the grandest mausoleum \ and to spend enormous amounts, 
 in trying to attain this end, it may safely be said, that 
 no Cemetery in the world, not even the celebrated 
 Pere la Chaise, in Paris, can compare with it, in grand 
 edifices and sculpture. The entrance itself is a work of 
 art, being a monumental structure of brown stone, in 
 the Gothic style, ornamented with sculpture, representing 
 scenes from the Gospels ; the most prominent being, the 
 Entombment, and Resurrection of Christ. 
 
 The Atlantic Dock is a fine piece of workmanship. 
 The basin occupies an area of forty-two acres, and the 
 depth of water is sufficient to float the largest vessels. 
 The piers surrounding the basin are of solid granite, 
 
 
BROOKLYN. 
 
 149 
 
 upon which are erected large substantial warehouses ; 
 and which give a wharfage accommodation two miles in 
 extent. The Dry-dock is another great work ; it is built 
 of solid granite, contains 600,000 gallons of water, and 
 can be emptied by steam pumps in four hours. 
 
 A great Suspension Bridge is in course of erection, 
 to connect Brooklyn with New York ; it is to be 6,000 
 feet in length, the span across the river will be 1,600 feet. 
 
 Plymouth Church, of which Henry Ward Beecher is 
 the pastor, is a plain red brick building, but very 
 commodious, seating some 3,000 people. It resembles 
 in appearance a plain theatre ; and under the same roof 
 are rooms, used for lectures, and Sunday School purposes. 
 The Church also possesses other buildings in different parts 
 of the City, and has 2,500 children attending its Sunday 
 Schools. Beecher himself is a hale old man, straight as a 
 dart, and still in evident possession of much of his former 
 energy. His enunciation is clear, and distinct; and 
 the words seem to roll out of his mouth, without apparent 
 effort. He preaches a very practical theology. The 
 Sunday I attended his service, he took as his text, "The 
 night Cometh"; and upon this theme he spoke at great 
 length, with special reference to the marriage relations. 
 He treated the text as referring to death, and exhorted 
 his hearers to set their houses in order, to be ready for 
 its dread advent. He referred to the great extravagance 
 in dress, and luxury in living, which compelled the father 
 
 
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 150 
 
 TRANS- PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
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 of the family to leave home early, and return late, in 
 order to earn sufficient to keep up the extravagant style 
 of living, and which prevented him from seeing his 
 children the whole week. He supported with strong 
 arguments the theory that a business which compels a 
 man to labour more than eight hours a-day, should be 
 given up ; insisted upon life insurance, as a provision for 
 the wife and family, in case their bread-winner were 
 suddenly called away ; and suggested other practical 
 matters affecting the relations between man and wife, 
 and father and child. I also visited the Tabernacle, to 
 hear Beecher's great rival Talmage, who is thought by many 
 to be his superior in eloquence; but though much pleased 
 with the sermon, there was not about it that originality 
 that struck me so forcibly in Beecher's. 
 
 The heat in New York now became so oppressive, 
 that I went down to Long Branch, for a couple of days, 
 to take advantage of its cooler atmosphere and bca- 
 bathing. Long Branch is a fashionable watering-place, 
 and like all American places devoted entirely to amuse- 
 ment, teems with a mixed, motley assembly of the 
 wealthier class, and of the class, or classes, that prey 
 upon it ; for here congregate a number of parasites, both 
 male and female, swindlers all, who carry on what seems 
 to be a flourishing trade, at the expense of the pleasure 
 seekers, and more especially of those strange to the 
 habits of the country. 
 
 ii 
 
LONG BRANCH. 
 
 151 
 
 Long Branch can lay no claim to rural or marine 
 beauty ; the beach is bad, and the town itself consists 
 almost entirely of large temporary hotels and boarding- 
 houses. The mode of bathing is the same as prevails in 
 France. Men and women wear bathing-dresses, and 
 bathe indiscriminately together ; and as the beach here 
 shelves abruptly, and the surf is strong, bathers are only 
 able to proceed a couple of yards or so into the water. 
 
 Life at Long Branch is circumscribed; visitors rise 
 late, breakfast late, and bathe late ; take a siesta during 
 the heat of the day, or attend any races that may be 
 held in the neighbourhood ; then a late dinner ; and in 
 the evenings there aie balls, where they dance late ; after 
 which, they sup late ; and finally, retire late. I soon got 
 weary of this inane sort of life, and was pleased to 
 return to the heat and dust of New York. 
 
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 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 BOSTON, HARTFORD, NEW HAVEN, PROVIDENCE.— 
 NEW ENGLAND CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 Newport — Boston — Harbour — Pride of Bostonians — Public 
 Buildings — *' Common" — Harvard University — Collegiate 
 Halls — Curriculum — Discii)line— City of Hartford — Trinity 
 College — " Charter Oak" Old Puritan Laws — Position of New 
 Haven — Vale College — Description of Providence — New 
 England States — Principal Features — Education — Infanticide — 
 Irreligion. 
 
 Taking my passage by the steamer Bristol of the Fall 
 River line, I started for Boston. This steamer, together 
 with its sister ship the Providence^ are amongst the largest 
 and most splendid in American waters ; and there are 
 few trips more enjoyable than that portion of the journey 
 to Boston, made m them. 
 
 On leaving New York, we had a fine coup d'ceil^ 
 comprising a grand view of the harbour ; of the cities of 
 New York and Brooklyn ; of the shores of Long Island, 
 and the numerous small islands in the East River. The 
 passage was nearly all the way through the calm waters 
 of Long Island Sound, and the Atlantic was only gained, 
 j ust before the steamer entered the Fall River, whence the 
 
 M 
 
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 BOSTON. 
 
 153 
 
 
 railway cars soon conveyed us to Boston. We made one 
 stoppage before arriving at the Fall River at Newport, a 
 clean little town in Narrangansett Bay, and a place of 
 great resort in the summer months. Here is an 
 old ruin, called the Northmen's Tower, supposed 
 to have been built by the early Norse discoverers of 
 America. This may or may not be, but the tower with 
 its rough piers and ca vitals has a very ancient appearance, 
 and is, in any case, a very curious relic. 
 
 Boston, the capital of the Old Bay State as Massa- 
 chusetts is sometimes called, and chief city of New 
 England, is situated on Massachusetts Bay and comprises 
 Boston proper. East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, 
 and Dorchester. The city proper covers a peninsula 
 only 700 acres in extent, and is consequently very closely 
 built upon. 
 
 East Boston occupies Maverick's Island, and having 
 the greatest depth of water, at its wharves lie all the 
 ocean steamers, and vessels of large draught. Some 
 of these wharves are of considerable extent, that 
 belonging to the Cunard Company being over 1,000 
 feet long. 
 
 South Boston extends for about two miles along the 
 south side of the harbour, by an arm of which, it is 
 separated from Boston proper. 
 
 The city is connected with Charlestown, one of its 
 suburbs, by the Charles river bridge 1,500 feet long ; and 
 
 In 
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154 
 
 TRANS- PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 with Cambridge, another of its suburbs, by the West 
 Boston bridge 2,750 feet in length. 
 
 The harbour covers an area of about seventy-five 
 square miles, and is studded with numerous islands, 
 which give it a very picturescjue appearance. It is 
 memorable for having been the scene of the occurrence, 
 that led to the battle on the neighbouring heights of 
 Bunker Hill, the actual beginning of the Revolutionary 
 War, the results of which have been perhaps more 
 important, than those of any other historical event. 
 This occurrence, as is well-known, was the destruction, 
 by a party of B&stonians disguised as Indians, of the 
 obnoxious tea, attempted by the Home (jovernment of 
 the day to be forced upon the colonisi^. 
 
 Boston is one of the oldest cities in the Statjs, having 
 been founded in 1625, a few years after the setdement of 
 New York. In 1872, it was the scene of an immense 
 conflagration, which caused great devastation, destroying 
 about 800 of the best buildings, which have however in 
 an incredibly short space of time, been replaced by 
 other, and better edifices. It is very much like an 
 English provincial city in appearance, and is without 
 doubt the most old-fashioned town in the States; the 
 streets being mostly narrow and crooked, especially in 
 the older part. 
 
 Washington and Tremont Streets are the principal 
 business thoroughfares, and contain many fine shops, and 
 
 f 
 
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 BOSTON. 
 
 iSS 
 
 f 
 
 Other buildings. Since the fire the streets generally have 
 been widened, and otherwise improved. 
 
 Boston has often been called the " Athens of America," 
 from Harvard University, the most ancient seat of learn- 
 ing in the country, being in its immediate vicinity ; and 
 from its possessing many other institutions devoted to 
 higher learning. The pride of its New England inhabi- 
 tants is proverbial, and was exemplified after the great 
 conflagration ; when Chicago and other towns collected 
 by voluntary contribution, and forwarde-^l a sum of 
 ;^40,ooo, for the use of the people rendered home- 
 less ; which the Bostonians refused to accept, on the 
 plea that they were rich enough to support their own 
 poor. 
 
 The public buildings of Boston are neither remarkable 
 for their number, nor beauty ; the most prominent are 
 the State House, and the City Hall. The former is a 
 building in the Grecian style of architecture, with an 
 imposing colonnade in front, and surmounted by a gilded 
 dome. The entrance leads directly into the Rotunda, in 
 which are a fine statue of Washington, busts of former 
 governors, . and trophies of banners and cannon. The 
 City Hall is an imposing building of white granite, 
 in the Italian Renaissance style, with a fine louvre 
 dome. On the lawn in front is a fine bronze statue of 
 Franklin. 
 
 The Custom House is a stately granite structure, built 
 
 

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 156 
 
 TRANS rACI I'lC SKETCHES. 
 
 in the form of a (ircek cross ; the portico on either front 
 being supported by heavy Doric cokimns. The new 
 Post Office in course of erection will be the finest 
 building in New England. The Masonic Temple con- 
 tains handsome Egyptian, Corinthian, and Gothic 
 Halls. 
 
 The Boston Public Library is a very meritorious insti- 
 tution, exceeded only in si/.c and importance, by the 
 Library of Congress at Washington. It contains 260,000 
 volumes, r 00,000 pamphlets, and the celebrated Topti 
 collection of engravings. The library and reading-rooms 
 are open gratuitously to all, and residents have the 
 privilege of taking books home. 
 
 The AtheUiTum is one of the best endowed in the 
 New World, and contains galleries of sculpture and 
 paintings, and a library of 100,000 volumes. 
 
 The Museum of Fine Arts is a new building of red 
 brick, elaborately ornamented with terra-cotta bas-reliefs, 
 and contains some of the most valuable works of art in 
 the country. 
 
 The Institute of Technology is a school for instruction 
 in the applied sciences, and for granting degrees in 
 engineering ; it is on the model of the Cerman technical 
 schools, and is found to be most beneficial in its results. 
 Similar schools are now being introduced into the 
 Australian Colonies, and will, when properly established, 
 doubtless prove of great benefit. 
 
'itj 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
 157 
 
 Poston contains several old buildings famous for 
 memorable events connected with the Revolutionary 
 times ; the principal of these being Faneuil Hall, called 
 the " Cradle of Liberty." 
 
 Right in the heart of the City is the " Common," arv 
 area of 48 acres, laid out in lawns and walks, shaded by 
 fine trees, and surrounded by a handsome iron rdiling. 
 This park, in so densely poi)ulated a city, is a great 
 boon to the people, and an incalculable benefit to the 
 public health. Here in the evening numbers of the 
 citizens are to be seen, enjoying the fresh air ; and the 
 "Common" then presents ([uite a gay appearance. 
 Portion is used as a public garden, and is beautifully 
 arranged, and adorned with several fine statues. 
 
 Mount Auburn Cemetery, after Greenwood, the finest 
 in America, occupies 125 acres of ground ; is well laid 
 out, and contains numerous artificial lakes, costly 
 monuments, and fountains. The entrance, built in the 
 Egyptian style is remarkably fine. 
 
 At Charlestown, is the Bunker Hill Monument ; a 
 plain massive obelisk 221 feet high, commemorating the 
 great battle fought on June 17th, 1775. 
 
 Harvard University, the most important seat of learn- 
 ing in the States, is at Cambridge, a suburb of Boston ; 
 it was founded by the Rev. John Harvard an alumnus of 
 Emmanuel College, Cambridge, England, and now com- 
 prises, besides the collegiate branch, schools of divinity, 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 law, medicine, dentistry, and tlie Lawrence school of 
 science. The college-yard, 15 acres in extent, is a fine 
 green with numbers of stately jhns ; and within it are 
 ■clustered the fifteen plain and impretcntious buildings, 
 forming the University. One of these buildings, however, 
 the Memorial Hall, used as the Senate House, is a bean- 
 tiful stone structure, with a fine tower 200 feet high. It 
 was raised at a cost of ^^ 100,000 by the alumni and 
 friends of the University, in honour o hose students who 
 fell in the Civil Wai ; and contains a large theatre or 
 lecture-hall, and various other large halls, the principal of 
 W'lich, has splendid stained-glass windows, and on its 
 wnlls are carved the names of the alumni in whose honour 
 the edifice was erected. Otlicr college buildings are 
 Matthews, Gray and Boylston Halls, used as dormitories; 
 Massachusett Hall, as a reading-room ; Tliaycr Hall ; 
 Dane Hall, used as the law school ; and Gore Hall, which 
 contains the University library of 130,000 volumes ; 
 besides which there are an Observatory, a Zoological 
 Museum, Herbarium, and Gymnasium. 
 
 The undergraduates number nearly a thousand, the 
 majority of whom are accommodated in the various dor- 
 mitories, though many sleep in the town. 
 
 The curriculum resembles that of Oxford, prominence 
 being given to classical studies, which causes Harvard to 
 have a distinct individuality amongst American higher 
 educational institutions ; the tendency generally being 
 
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 HARVARD. 
 
 159 
 
 towards utilitarianism. The matriculation examination, 
 which candidates for admission have to pass, is very 
 difficult, and the whole course of study is stringent : a 
 student having to attain a high state of efticiency before 
 he can obtain a degree. The discipline, however, is 
 very lax, there being no restrictions outside the class- 
 rooms ; undergraduates beine; allowed to do pretty much 
 as they like. The students are drawn from the better 
 class, and seem to be a gentlemanly lot of men ; they 
 come chiefly from the New England States. Southern 
 and Western Americans generally prefer the great kindred 
 institution of Yale College, on account of its more 
 orthodox Christianity. 
 
 It struck mc, that at Harvard, the mind is trained at 
 the expense of the body; as the undergraduates do not 
 appear to go in for much exercise, and with the excep- 
 tion of a little boating, and the national game of base- 
 ball, there do not seem to be any outdoor sports. I 
 would say, however, that a graduate of Harvard should 
 be a thoroughly well educated man ; and the institution, 
 in spite of a few drawbacks, is one of which Americans 
 may justly be proud. 
 
 After spending a few days in viewing the lions of 
 Boston, I left Ijy the New York and New Haven Rail- 
 way for Hartford, which, until last year alternated wiili 
 New Haven as the cai)ital of Connecticut, but which has 
 now been made tJic sole metropolis. It is one of the 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 prettiest of the many pretty New England towns, lying 
 in the valley of the Coni;ecticut River, at the head of its 
 navigauon and junction witli Park River ; the country 
 in the vicinity being rich, cultivated ])lains, interspersed 
 with well-wooded hills, and dotted with villages and 
 homesteads. 
 
 The town itself is regularly laid out, some of the 
 streets running parallel with the Connecticut river and 
 being crossed by others at right angles ; it is divided 
 into two portions by Park river, which is spanned by 
 numerous bridges. Main Street, the principal thorough- 
 fare, presents for about a mile an unbroken front of 
 shops, public buildings and churches. 
 
 The city proper is connected with its suburb i'^ast 
 Hartford, by a fine iron bridge over the Connecticut 
 river i,ooo feet long. Hartford boasts a fine public 
 park, covering forty-six acres of ground, prettily situated 
 on the banks of Park River ; at the upper end of 
 which, are the buildings of the Episcopal College of the 
 Holy Trinity, the leading educational institution of the 
 city, and one of the most important in the State. The 
 course of instruction at Trinity College is similar to that 
 at Yale ; but more attention is paid to religious studies. 
 There are about a hundred students in residence, and a 
 staff of about twenty able professors. Divine Service is 
 held twice daily, at which the attendance of the under- 
 graduates is compulsory; and attached to the College is a 
 
HARTFORD. 
 
 l6l 
 
 
 t\ 
 
 fine Library of 7,000 volumes, where the mitre, wh.ich 
 belonged to Bishop Seabury, is preserved as a relic, — 
 such ornaments not being used in the American 
 Episcopal Church. The College buildings are three in 
 numl)er, and are plain, substantial stone structures ; but a 
 new site for the College has been purchased, and it is 
 intended to erect better and more suitable edifices. 
 
 In close proximity to Trinity College, is the new State 
 House, in course of erection : this is to be a large marble 
 Gothic structure, and will contain in addition to the two 
 Chambers of the Legislature, the State Library, and the 
 Supreme Court. 
 
 The State Library contains the original Charter, 
 granted by Charles IL to Connecticut, which was for som.^ 
 time concealed in an oak tree, from the wood of which 
 a chair has been made, which now stands in the Senate 
 Chamber. I was shown copies of some of the old laws 
 enacted by the Puritans, which assuredly do not err on 
 the side of leniency ; but prove these old zealots to have 
 been narrow-minded and bigoted to a degree. 
 
 Disobedient sons were punished with death, and people 
 convicted of being (Quakers had one ear cut off for the 
 first conviction, the other for a second ; whilst for a third, 
 they were to have their tongues bored with a red-hot 
 iron, and to be whipped. 
 
 The AsyUun for the Deaf anil Dumb, situated in the 
 midst of extensive grounds, is a most meritorious, and 
 
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 12 
 
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 162 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 I 
 
 well-conducted institution, and was the first of the kind 
 erected in America. 
 
 Another noteworthy institution is the Wadsworth 
 Athenaeum, a fine castellated edifice, containing a gallery 
 of paintings, and statuary, a museum, and no less than 
 three distinct libraries, belonging to different associations. 
 
 The population of Hartford is about 40.000 ; and it is 
 the centre of numerous, and important manufactures, the 
 principal being the fabrication of iron and brass-ware, 
 steam-engines and boilers, firearms, tools, sewing-machines, 
 and plated-ware. 
 
 Just outside the City, on the river bank, and forming 
 a village by itself, is Colt's large firearm factory ; and in 
 close proximity, is the pretty little Episcopal Church, 
 erected by Mrs. Colt for the use of the men employed in 
 the works. 
 
 A short journey of thirty-six miles, through a good 
 agricultural country, past several clean little towns, brought 
 me to New Haven, the largest and most populous city of 
 'Connecticut, and one of the oldest settlements in New 
 England. This city ij built on a plain sloping gendy 
 •down to New Haven Bay, with a backgroun^l of woodeil 
 hills, two rocky promontories called East and West Rocks, 
 ■especially forming a striking feature in a picturesque 
 landscape. The town itself is clean and cheerful looking, 
 and contains a population estimated at 55;Ooo souls. 
 
 Chapel Street, containing the principal business and 
 
 1 
 
 
NEW HAVEN. 
 
 63 
 
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 public buildings, extends right through the city ; wliilst 
 the private residences are in avenues, lined with stately 
 elm trees ; for which reason New Haven is ften called 
 the " City of Elms." 
 
 In the middle of the town is the " Green," a square 
 shaded by fine trees, fronting on which are several 
 churches, and the City Hall, a handsome building, 
 containing in addition to the municipal offices, a large 
 hall in which courts are held. 
 
 New Haven is the centre of a large railway system, 
 and possesses numerous industries ; the manufacture of 
 machinery, clocks, firearms, hardware, and pianos, being 
 the principal. 
 
 Near the "Creen" is College Square, in which are the 
 old fashioned buildings comprising the celebrated Yale 
 College, the great rival of Harvard University. The 
 Library, Uie Theological School, and the modern Durfee 
 and Farnum Halls, are certainly im|)rovements upon the 
 other ugly buildings, which have, however, an old- 
 fiishioned appea'^ance, and air of comfort, very rare in 
 America. Connected widi the College, are schools of 
 divinity, law, medicine, science, and the fine arts. 
 The Library contains 90,000 volumes ; and the Art 
 building has some fine collections of paintings and casts 
 from Greek anticjues. The Old ("ominons' Hall contains 
 fine geological collections. The School of Science 
 has a laboratory, library, and scientific collections. 
 
 
i 
 
 164 
 
 TR A N S- P AC I F I C S K ETC H ES . 
 
 
 li If; 
 
 Si' 
 
 Alumni Hall is adornccl with numerous portraits of 
 distinguished graduates. Yale was founded in 1700, and 
 is consequently nearly as old as Harvard ; it has now 
 over a thousand students in residence. The course of 
 instruction extends over four years, and is very severe ; 
 whilst the discipline outside the class-rooms, as at 
 Harvard, is very lax. Every student is compelled to 
 attend morning service, which is however a very cold 
 affiiir ; the prayers being mumbled over, whilst the 
 students, all the while, are preparing for the lectures of 
 the day. 
 
 Leaving New Haven by the Stonington and Providence 
 Railway, the road lies for some distance along the shores 
 of Long Island Sound, through well-cultivated country ; 
 and aft-ir passing the important towns of New London, 
 Stonington, and Westerly, we arrived at Providence, one 
 of the capitals of Rhode Island, the smallest of all the 
 States in the Union. This city is situated on an arm of 
 Narrangansett Bay, called Providence River, and is, after 
 Boston, the most populous and wealthy city in New 
 England. It is a remarkably pretty place, the prettiest 
 in fact of all the New England towns. The river flows 
 into the centre of the city, where it expands into a fine 
 lagoon, nearly a mile in circumference ; and round this 
 a park has been formed, planted witli beautiful elms ; in 
 addition to which there are numerous greens or scjuares, 
 and a pretty park of 100 acres, called after the founder of 
 
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PROVIDENCE. 
 
 165 
 
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 the city Roger Williams, by a descendant of whom it was 
 presented to the citizens. 
 
 The land upon which Providence is built, is somewhat 
 hilly ; and therefore unlike the llat monotoi y of New 
 Haven, it presents a diversity of appearance, rendered 
 picturescjue by the hills being covered with fine residences. 
 The principal business thoroughfare is Westminster- 
 street, and from it extends the Arcade, one of the lions of 
 the city, of which the people of Providence are very 
 proud. This Arcade is 225 feet long and 80 feet wide, 
 and has three stories containing shops ; it is entered at 
 either end through an imposing Doric portico. On the 
 heights at one end of the town, are the six buildings of 
 the Brown University, an old, and one of the best 
 educational institutions in New England. These buildings 
 stand in extensive grounds, and contain a large library 
 and art collection. 
 
 The public buildings of Providence are neither remark- 
 able for their number, nor beauty ; several now in course 
 of erection, when (:omi)leted, will materially add to the 
 architecture of the city. In the centre of one of the 
 scjuares, stands a very tine monument of granite, with 
 five large bronze statues, erected to the memory of those 
 Rhode Island soldiers and sailors, who fell in the 
 Civil War. On this monument are inscrilied the 
 seventeen hundred and odd names of those it com- 
 memorates. 
 
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1 66 
 
 TkANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
 There are seventy-six churches in the city, some of 
 which are fine buildings. 
 
 The Athenaeum is a very useful institution, containing 
 a good library and reading-room, and a collection of 
 l)aintings. 'I'here are also several meritorious establish- 
 ments for the cure of the sick, and the relief of the 
 distressed. 
 
 Providence contains a population of over 100,000, and 
 is the most important railway centre in New England^ 
 and the seat of many manufactures ; the principal being 
 cotton and woollen goods (it being the leading American 
 market for "prints"), the Gorham-plate, the Peabody 
 rifles, and the celebrated Corliss engines. 
 
 New England comprises the six States of Maine, 
 New Hampshire, ^^ermont, Connecticut, Rhode Island, 
 and Massachusetts ; and contains a gross population of 
 3,500,000 inhabitants. These States were originally 
 settled by the Puritans, who sought in the New World 
 that liberty of conscience, and freedom of thought, denied 
 tliem in the Old. How far, and to what extent the 
 principle of toleration was carried out by them, may be 
 judged by a perusal of some of their laws and enactments 
 given in an earlier part of this chapter. 
 
 The country has been brought into a high state of 
 cultivation, and the towns, though possessing a certain 
 primness, are clean, and pretty, and have a more settled 
 xii)pearance than the majority of American towns ; their 
 
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NEW ENGLAND. 
 
 167 
 
 Id 
 
 Its 
 
 ed 
 
 environs especially, being tidy and well kept, and having 
 in place of the wooden shanties so common in Western 
 towns, nice villas and trim gardens. 
 
 Great attention has been paid to the education of the 
 people and the chief seats of learning have their home 
 here ; the taste too for the Arts and Sciences is more 
 cultivated, than is the case in other States of the Great 
 Republic. 
 
 New England has hitherto given the tone to American 
 society and general national characteristics ; but this 
 privilege is being gradually lost in the rising greatness of 
 the Middle, Western, and South-Western States. 
 
 Life here, where the natural obstacles have long been 
 overcome, is quieter, and more peaceful than in the 
 West, where man is still waging a war with nature to 
 bring the soil under cultivation ; and there is a conse- 
 quently smaller number of crimes of open violence, 
 although infanticide is said to prevail to a frightful 
 extent. Researches prove the fact, that it is owing to 
 the prevalence of this crime, that ihe descendants of the 
 original Puritan settlers are fast decreasing in number. 
 
 Irreligion is general ; Unitarianism prevails to a great 
 extent; whilst Universalism counts many adherents ; and 
 it must not be forgotten that New England has given birth 
 to many of those free-love doctrines, that still like fungi, 
 cumber the earth. Such is tlie outcome of Puritanism. 
 
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 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 PIIILADELPIIIA AND 'I1I1-; CKNTKXXIAL F.XHIP.I- 
 
 TK^N. 
 
 City of riiiladelphia — Fairmount Park — Sriuaivs and Streets — 
 Independence Hall — Other Prominent Edifices — Clirard College 
 
 — Exhibition I'uildings — Classification of ICxhibits — Main 
 Huilding— Machinery Hall — Agricultural Hall — Memorial Hall 
 
 — HcMlicultural Hall — Women's I'avilion — (lovernment 
 ISuilding — Sul)sidiary Buildings — Exhibition Grounds — Cen- 
 tennial Fountain — Accommodation for \'isitors. 
 
 Returning to New York, I proceeded by the Pennsyl- 
 vania Railway to Philadelphia ; the journey being through 
 a flat and uninteresting country, but past many important 
 towns, amongst others, Newark a city of 100,000 inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 Philadelphia, the old Quaker City of Brotherly Love, 
 as its name implies, is the largest in the States, in point 
 of are^ and the second in population. It is situated 
 between the rivers Delaware and Schuylkill, about six 
 miles above their junction ; at present contains about 
 350 miles of paved streets, and a greater number of 
 houses than any other city in America. It is very regu- 
 larly laid out, the streets all running north and south, or 
 east and west ; the former are numbered successively 
 from the Delaware to the Schuylkill, commencing with 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 169 
 
 I .1 
 
 First Street, and going up to Twenty-third, and as the 
 city has outgrown its former Hniits, they are now con- 
 tinued on the other side of the Schuylkill and proceed for 
 a great distance. The houses in the streets running east 
 and west, which have mostly pomological names, as 
 Chestnut Street, Walnut Street, Vine Street, Filbert Street, 
 iscc, are all numbered from east to west ; all between l'"irst 
 and Second Streets, being numbered from 100 to 200, and 
 all between Second and Third Streets, from 200 to 300, 
 and so on. This is a system that might advantageously 
 be carried out in all new cities, as it enables a stranger to 
 find his way about very easily. For instance, if the nearest 
 house be 940 then the visitor knows he is between Ninth 
 and Tenth Streets ; and in like manner, as all the numbered 
 streets running north and south are allowed a hundred 
 numbers, for each block distant from Market Street, the 
 centre of the city ; a stranger has only to learn the cardi- 
 nal points, and he can calculate to a nicety, his distance 
 from the Delaware or Market Street. The streets how- 
 ever are not wide, and in spite of their regularity, Phila- 
 delphia cannot be called a fine city ; especially as its 
 public buildings are not so imposing as those of many less 
 important places. Like Boston, it much resembles an 
 English city, and the inhabitants generally have an old- 
 country look. 
 
 The great feature of Philadelphia is Fairmount Park, 
 one of I'm largest in the world, covering a space of 
 
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 2,740 acres, extending for seven miles on both sides of 
 the Schuylkill River, and Wissahickon Creek. It is 
 nearly fourteen miles in length, and possesses great 
 natural beauty ; though up to the present time, little has 
 been done towards its improvement. Within the park 
 are situated the reservoirs that supply the city with water, 
 which latter is brought from the Schuylkill, and forced 
 up to the reservoirs by hydraulic power. Fairmount also 
 contains a colossal bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln, and 
 a small Art gallery in which are a few very fine pictures. 
 
 Adjoining, is the new Zoological garden, which has 
 only recently been formed, but which already contains a 
 good collection of animals. The grounds are well laid 
 out, and the various houses for the animals are very 
 elegant structures. 
 
 There are some pretty squares in the city. Logan 
 Square contains seven acres, nicely arranged ; Washington 
 Square is enclosed by a handsome iron railing, is very 
 well kept, and contains a specimen of every kind of tree 
 that will grow in this climate, whether indigenous or not. 
 Franklin Square has a fine fountain in the centre, and 
 has a very trim appearance. Rittenhouse Square is in 
 the aristocratic portion of the city, and is surrounded by 
 fine mansions. 
 
 The principal streets are Chestnut Street, which con- 
 tains the best retail establishments ; Market Street, the 
 principal business thoroughfare ; and Broad Street, con- 
 
 
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 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 171 
 
 taining the principal private residences and churches. 
 Other leading thoroughfares are Lombard, Arch, Race, 
 Vine, and Third Streets. 
 
 The most interesting building in Philadelphia is 
 undoubtedly Independence Hall ; in it the first Con- 
 tinental Congress was held ; and here, on July 4th, 1776, 
 the Declaration of Independence was adopted, and 
 publicly proclaimed from the steps. The room in which 
 Congress sat on that memorable occasion, presents the 
 same appearance now, that it did at that time ; the 
 furniture having all been preserved. The building als'z 
 contains a statue of Washington, numerous portraits of 
 celebrated personages connected with the passing of the 
 Declaration of Independence, and many curious revolu- 
 tionary relics. Here also is kept the celebrated 
 Liberty Bell, the first one in the United Colonies that 
 rang out a peal of joy, after the proclamation of Inde- 
 pendence. 
 
 The public buildings are at present unpretentious, but 
 there are now in course of erection a new Post-ofiice, to 
 be in the French Renaissance style, and on a very 
 extensive scale, and a new building to be occupied as 
 Law Courts and Public Offices. This edifice is to be of 
 white marble, 486 feet long by 470 wide, four stories 
 high, and will cover an area of four acres and a halt, 
 exclusive of a court-yard 200 feet square ; the centre 
 tower will be 450 feet high. 
 
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 TRANSPACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 The present Post-office is a plain white marble building. 
 The Custom-house is a good specimen of Doric archi- 
 tecture, modelled on the Parthenon at Athens, with the 
 exception of the columns at the sides. The Mint is also a 
 fine white marble building in the Ionic style. 
 
 The Eastern Penitentiary covers about ten acre*- of 
 ground, and in appearance resembles a baronial castle of 
 the Middle Ages ; here the silent system is in force, 
 prisoners being allowed to speak with the chaplain and 
 prison officials, but not with their fellow prisoners. 
 Sufficient work is provided to keep them occupied. 
 
 The Merchants' Exchange is a large marble edifice, 
 with a semi-circular colonnade of eight pillars, and a 
 spacious Rotunda, which contains a handsomely-frescoed 
 reading-room. 
 
 The United States Naval Asylum is a large marble 
 building, standing in the midst of extensive grounds, and 
 has a fine Ionic portico with eight graceful columns. The 
 city also possesses two Arsenals, one of which is devoted 
 to the monufacture of army clothing, shoes, »S:c. ; and the 
 other to the storage of ammunition. 
 
 The Masonic Temple, tlie finest in the world, is a solid 
 granite structure, in the pure Norman style ; it is richly 
 tlecorated in the interior, and contains large Corinthian, 
 Doric, Egyptian, Ionic, Oriental, Norman, and Gothic 
 Halls. 
 
 Foremost amongst the Educational establishments is 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 173 
 
 lan, 
 thic 
 
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 the University of Pennsylvania, which is one of the 
 oldest institutions in the country, having been founded in 
 1749. It occupies a group of handsome buildings, and 
 contains a fine library and museum, and gives instruction 
 to eight hundred students. 
 
 Girard College is a granu institution, founded by 
 Stephen Girard, who left two millions of dollars, to be 
 devoted to the erection of suitable buildings, to provide 
 for " the gratuitous instruction and support of destitute 
 orphans " ; and the residue of his large estate he devised 
 for its maintenance. All honour to this great and 
 generous man ! The College grounds extend over an 
 area of 42 acres ; the College, erected on a height, is a 
 noble marble building of the Corinthian order of archi- 
 tecture, in the form of a Grecian temple ; it is surrounded 
 by thirty-six marble columns, and is one of the most 
 chaste and beautiful structures in America. It at 
 present contains 540 inmates, and from its roof, built 
 of marble, and rising in steps from eaves to ridge, a 
 mc^t commanding view of the city is obtained. On 
 the grounds is erected a fine monument to the gradu- 
 uates of the College, v;ho fell in the Civil War. in 
 his will Girard provided that the orpl ins should be 
 fed with wholesome food, clothed with plain, decent 
 apparel, and instructed in the branches of a good sound 
 education. It is peculiar that while secular visitors are 
 allowed to inspect the College, no clergyman of any 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 denomination is admitted ; it having been especially 
 provided in (lirard's will, that he desired to keep the 
 tender minds of the orphans free from the excitement, 
 which sectarian controversy always engenders. 
 
 Amongst other high-class Educational institutes are the 
 Hahnemann Medical College, the Wagner Free Institute 
 •of Science, the Polytechnic College, and the College of 
 Physicians. 
 
 Philadelphia contains numerous charitable institutions ; 
 the Pennsylvania Hospital, and the Hospital for the 
 Insane, are both admirable in their way. 
 
 Of the 420 churches in the city, many are fine build- 
 ings, and there are numerous libraries, scientific institutes, 
 and other associations and societies, devoted to various 
 purposes. 
 
 Philadelphia has little left of its Quakerism, except it 
 be the formal manner in which it is laid out ; it has, on 
 the contrary, the unenviable reputation of being one of 
 the fastest of the Eastern- American cities, and 's notorious 
 for dissipation and crime. 
 
 It may be remarked as a curious coincidence, that on 
 the breaking out of the war between Great Britain and 
 the United States in 181 2 ; a whale ascended the Dela- 
 ware as far as the city, where it was caught. This 
 was a hitherto unprecedented circumstance, which was 
 however, repeated in 186 1, on thb-breaking out of the 
 Civil War. 
 
 
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CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 175 
 
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 At the time of my visit to Philadelphia, the great Cen- 
 tennial Exhibition, commemorating the Centenary of 
 American Independence was being held, and a few words 
 about it, may not be out of place. The reason why 
 Philadelphia was selected as the place for holding the 
 Exhibition was, that the Declaration of Independence 
 was there signed and proclaimed to the people, and there 
 also the first (Congress met. Boston and New York both 
 put in a claim for the honour, but it was rightly accorded 
 to Philadelphia. 
 
 The Exhibition was held in a portion of Fairmount 
 Park, allotted for the purpose, containing about 230 acres. 
 The articles for exhibition were classified in seven 
 departments, and placed in five distinct buildings as 
 under : — 
 
 1. Mining ami Metallurgy \ 
 
 2. Manufactures , Main Buildixg 
 
 3. Science and E<lucati()n ' Covering an area of 21^ acres. 
 
 4. Art Mkmorial Hall ,, i^ „ 
 
 5. Machinery Macitinkrv HaLL ,, 14 „ 
 
 6. Agriculture AcRict'LTirRAL Hall ,, 10} ,, 
 
 7. Horticulture Houticultural Hall ,, 14 ,, 
 
 48I acres. 
 In addition to the above main buildings there were 
 also : — 
 
 Government IJitildinh;, for "the purpose of exhibiting such 
 articles as tend to show the functions and administrative 
 faculties of the I', S. Government in time of peace, and 
 its resources as a war power. " 
 
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 Till-: Wo.mkn's Pavilion, erected '.)>• ^uhscriplions from tlie 
 women of America, fur the puipose of showing articles 
 of female work only. 
 
 Brewers' Hall. 
 
 P'iOTodRAriiic Hall. 
 
 Carriage Axnexk, and numerous other smaller buildings, 
 mostly private, which, with the State Houses and Foreign 
 Commissioners' Houses, covered together an area of 26 
 acres. 
 
 Tiie buildings used for ICxhibition purposes, thus alto- 
 gether covered an area of 75 acres, being 25 acres in 
 excess of the last Vienna World's Fair. Unlike that 
 Exposition too, where the principal buildings had been 
 circular in form, the Americans at this, their great 
 Centennial Show had constructed theirs rectangular in 
 shape. 
 
 Main Building. 
 
 This structure constructed principally of glass and 
 iron, was in the form of a long parallelogram ; its greal 
 length and unbroken front, which might otherwise have 
 given it the appearance of monotonous sameness, being 
 relieved by numberless small towers. The larger portion 
 was one story high ; the interior height being 70 feet; 
 whilst towers 75 feet high were, erected at each corner.; 
 In its construction the building combined lightness and 
 stability in a marvellous degree, and was in itself an 
 exhibition of the skill of its architect and builders. The 
 
 
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THE CENTENNIAL EXHIHITION. 
 
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 roof, which was in three spans was remarkable for 
 strength and simplicity, and tended to prove that mere 
 weight in iron-work is not a gain but a positive disadvan- 
 tage. The length of this mammoth building was i,8.So 
 feet ; its breadth 464 feet ; and in its construction 
 $1,600,000 dollars had been expended. The manner in 
 which the floor-space was divided was as follows. 
 Traversing the entire length from east to west were five 
 avenues, each over a third of a mile in length, and the 
 centre one being 120 feet wide. These were intersected 
 by broad thoroughfares, all crossing one another at right 
 angles, and forming a total length of five miles ; which it 
 was necessary to traverse in order properly to inspect the 
 exhibits. In the centre of the hall a large space had 
 been left and furnished with galleries, from which a fine 
 bird's-eye view of the whole contents of the building 
 could be obtained. The panellings over this open space 
 were adorned with emblematical designs, representing 
 the four great divisions of the globe. On one side was 
 represented Europe, pouring its treasures at the feet of 
 Shakespeare and Charlemagne. On another square was 
 depicted Asia, its representative men being Mahomet 
 and Confucius. Africa was represented by Rameses and 
 Sesostris, with some very inscrutable looking sphinxes, 
 and America by Washington and Franklin. 
 
 It is quite impossible, in a limited space, to describe 
 the varied and splendid display in the main building, 
 
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 178 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 which constituted the principal portion of the P2xhibition. 
 In it were collected the choicest treasures of science, and 
 the greatest triumphs of manufacturing art ; illustrating 
 what a high degree of i)erfection human industry and 
 ingenuity have attained. 
 
 All the principal Courts abutted on the main avenue, 
 and extended back to the wall ; broad passages forming 
 the divisions between the different countries. 
 
 Commencing at the right-hand side of the main avenue, 
 immediately upon entering, the Italian Court first claimed 
 attention ; not by reason of its position alone, but also 
 on account of the great attractiveness of its display. 
 Here were to be seen exhibits of those articles in which 
 Italy has obtained well merited pre-eminence; beautiful 
 mosaics an-^' aeos, delicate Venetian glassware, elegant 
 jewellery, *" :e work, bronzes, carved furniture, and 
 church ornaments. Intermixed with these articles 
 de luxe might also be seen many things of more 
 homely manufacture, such as enter more into every-day 
 consumption. This Court proved a great source of 
 attraction to visitors, and always seemed to be crowded 
 with sight-seers. 
 
 Next in order was the Norwegian Court, which 
 contained a good display of thick woollen and cotton 
 cloths, of carved furniture, and wood work, of glassware, 
 of silver plate, of soaps and perfumes, with trophies of 
 cod-liver oil bottles, etc. 
 
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 In close proximity was the Swedish Court, containing 
 a splendid collection of rich furs, some beautiful 
 specimens of filagree work, fine wood carvings, a large 
 assortment of arms of all descrijitions, numerous articles 
 of Bessemer steel manufacture, and some excellent 
 samples of cutlery. A striking feature in tliis Court, 
 were groups of life-size figures of tlie Swedish peasantry 
 in their national dress. A family group contemplating 
 the death of a stag, that had just been shot by the two 
 males of the party, especially attracted attention. 
 
 Adjoining the Swedish were the Australian Courts, 
 which, though not so attractive as the majority of the 
 other sections, yet had a certain individuality about them, 
 that quietly yet forcibly claimed attention. The exhibits 
 collectively well represented the great, and as yet hardly 
 developed resources of the country, and in their way 
 were unrivalled. The fineness of the samples of wool 
 shown, the quality of the grain, the large yield of gold, 
 the excellence and (quantity of the copper and coal, the 
 native woods, and the fine grain of the sugar, especially 
 taking the Americans by surprise ; and it must be satis- 
 factory to Australians to know, that discussions have 
 already arisen in the American papers, as to the 
 desirability of modifying their tariff in such manner, as to 
 remove the restrictions on the importation of Australian 
 wool, which they acknowledge to be finer than any that 
 can be produced in the States, and very suitable to their 
 
 
 
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 180 
 
 TRANS-PACiriC SKETCHES. 
 
 woollen manufactures. The exhibits of the different 
 Australian Colonies individually may have ap{)eared 
 somewhat insignificant, as compared with other sections ; 
 but the whole display taken collectively, was one that 
 seemed very much to astonish the majority of the 
 visitors, whose ideas of Australia seemed hitherto to 
 have been of a very vague nature. This exhibition 
 must eventually be of inestimable value to the whole 
 group of colonies ; for it has materially spread the 
 knowledge of the great resources of this, the least 
 known quarter of the globe. As might be expected, the 
 most admirable portion of the A* :ralian display, and 
 the one that most strikingly shewed its great natural 
 sources of wealth, were those exhibits representing the 
 great industries, such as the wool, grain, wines, and 
 mineral samples. The articles of colonial manufacture 
 did not compare at all favourably with the exhibits of a 
 similar kind of older countries. In the Victorian Court 
 especially, many of the manufactured articles exhibited, 
 seemed to have place there for the sole purpose of filling 
 up surplus space. It was remarked too, by many, that 
 the exhibits of Victorian manufacture, in spite of the 
 so-called advantages of protection, were not equal in 
 finish to, or so cheap in price as, those of free-trade 
 New South Wales. This fact must speak volumes in 
 favour of unrestricted trade. 
 
 The samples of saddles and harness exhibited in the 
 
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TUF, CENTENNIAL EXHII5ITION. 
 
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 New South \\'alcs Court received nnicli attention, and it 
 has been remarked by persons connected with that trade 
 in America, that it would be useless to think of exporting 
 to AustraHa, if such splendid articles in that line can be 
 made there. The mineral wealth of the Australian 
 Colonies was well represented by great trophies repre- 
 senting the (juantity of gold exported, by rich specimens 
 of (juartz, heaps of smelted tin, pyramids of coal and 
 kerosene shale, and by masses of iron (y^ and copper. 
 The products and manufactures exh'')iLed comprised 
 numerous samples of wool, grain, silk, suga*-, arrowroot, 
 preserved fruit, confectionery, wines, spirits, litjueurs, and 
 vinegar ; flour, biscuits, preserved meats, tweeds, and 
 blankets ; silver goods, furs, rugs, and dressed sheep- 
 skins ; stuffed birds and animals; samples of olive and 
 eucalyptus oils ; brass and iron castings ; pianos and 
 billiard tables ; samples of leather, and numbers of 
 other articles. The numerous and well executed photo- 
 graphs of the scci'icry, and cities of the dilTerent colonies, 
 must have tended materially to give visitors to the 
 section a strikintj; idea of Australian advancement. 
 
 The various courts of the remaining British Possessions 
 came next. The Indian exhibits were few in number, 
 and the display generally fell far short of what might 
 have been expected from that great appanage of the 
 British Crown. The articles exhibited however were 
 very beautiful, and consisted of rich embroideries and 
 
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 shawls ; silks, sandalwood boxes, ivory and feather fans ; 
 lacquered work, ivory carvings, stone and metal work^ 
 and other Oriental articles de luxe. 
 
 The Cape of Good Mope only exhibited samples of its 
 principal industries, prominent amongst which were to 
 be seen a huge pyramid of wine bottles, specimens of 
 wool, minerals, ivory, and skins, and many others repre- 
 senting its various products. The wall space of this 
 Court, like the Australian section, was covered with photo- 
 graphs, representing South African scenery and towns. 
 
 Jamaica had a modest display of its woods, rum, and 
 sugui ; wliilst Bermuda, the Bahamas, and the other 
 smaller British Dependencies were represented by 
 unassuming collections, consisting of the various products 
 of their different latitudes. 
 
 Canada had evidently used every endeavour to make 
 a display worthy of itself, and certainly succeeded in 
 doing so, for the number and excellence of the articles 
 exhibited in this section, excited the admiration of all 
 visitors to it. In manufactures, the exhibits comprised 
 tweeds of fine finish, leatherwork, iron and stone work, 
 implements and tools, articles connected with ship- 
 building, furniture, and furs, etc. ; all displaying great 
 taste and finish, and showing how far Canada has 
 advanced in the mechanical arts, and what a high state 
 of development has been reached in many departments 
 of manufacture. The mineral wealth of the Dominion 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIIUTIOX, 
 
 183 
 
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 was also represented, and its minuralogical collection 
 was so well arranged, that it claimed universal attention, 
 Here were to be seen columns of beautif'.lly grained 
 granite, huge blocks of plumbago, pyramids of coal, iron 
 ores, with samples of the manufactured articles ; slabs of 
 marble, gold in quartz and slate, and a fine display of 
 mineral oils. Altogether the exhibits of Canada were 
 numerous, and well arranged, and need not have feared 
 comparison in any way, with those of its great 
 neighbour, and rival, the United States. 
 
 Leaving the Canadian Court, the section of Great 
 Britain and Ireland was entered, and here a display, 
 though acknowledged to be not so good as it might have 
 been, was yet of so bewildering and dazzling a nature, 
 on account of the multiplicity and excellence of the 
 articles exhibited, as fully to justify Great Britain's claim 
 to industrial pre-eminence. It would require a volume 
 to enumerate and descant upon the variety and beauty 
 of the exhibits in this Court, which comprised every 
 department of manufacture, and exemplified in a high 
 degree, how the genius of man has made the products of 
 nature subservient to his will, and causes them to 
 minister to his wants. I heard it frequently remarked, 
 that the British Court claimed attention and admiration, 
 on the score alone, of the excellence and high finish of 
 the exhibits ; there having been, for so large a collection, 
 a singular absence of many articles attractive in them- 
 
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 184 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 selves, and which would have served to enliven the 
 display of the more useful articles. Jewellery for 
 instance was conspicuous by its absence, and Elkingtons 
 were the only exhibitors of plated ware ; although their 
 display, which fronted the transept or main avenue, was 
 in itself sufficient to prove Britain's superiority in that 
 branch of manufacture. Pins, needles, reels of cotton, 
 tweeds, prints, iron and steel work, stone and earthen- 
 ware, tools, hardware, paper and the thousand and one 
 useful articles exhibited by firms of world-wide reputation, 
 undoubtedly represent great industries and enter largely 
 into the consumption of every day life ; still they do not 
 as a rule prove attractive to general sight-seers, and on 
 that account the French and even the Italian Court, 
 always seemed to be more crowded with visitors, than 
 the great British section. The display of beautiful laces, 
 and needlework, of rich silks and splendid upholstery, of 
 magnificent furniture, of elaborate carpets and elegant 
 majolica- ware, scarcely seemed to relieve the general 
 monotony of the whole. The flat printing press, exhi- 
 bited by the proprietors of the Graphic^ which was in 
 daily operation, was a great centre of attraction. 
 
 Next in succession to the British, came the French 
 Court, which was very much smaller in size, but in which 
 the exhibits were arranged in a very attractive manner, 
 and consisting as they did, for the most part, of the 
 numerous articles which go by the generic term of 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 185 
 
 gant 
 
 ench 
 ^hich 
 mcr, 
 the 
 of 
 
 '• articles de Paris,'* were much admired by visitors and 
 the Court always seemed very crowded. This is to be 
 attributed to the more attractive nature of the goods 
 displayed, prominent amongst which were to be seen 
 elegant jewellery, beautiful bronzes, masterpieces of the 
 milliners' art in the form of ladies' dresses, silks, velvets, 
 majolica-ware, gloves, fans and all those articles dc luxe, 
 for the production of which, the French enjoy such 
 world-wide fame. Many of the French exhibits bore a 
 striking resemblance to those of a similar description in 
 the British Cciirt, and this was particularly noticeable in 
 the specimens of majolica-ware, plated-ware, silks and 
 velvets, porcelain goods, cutlery and watches. 
 
 Beside the great and gorgeous collection in the 
 French Court, and almost eclipsed by it, came the 
 modest Swiss exhibits, which however, in point of excel- 
 lence of finish and lowness of price, could challenge 
 comparison with those of any other section. They con- 
 sisted of watches, musical boxes, mathematical and 
 surgical instruments^, clock materials, tools, lace curtains, 
 splendid wood carvings, textile fabrics, straw plaitings, 
 and school apparatus, the latter showing what a high 
 standard of education prevails in the little Republic. 
 
 Belgium came next in order, and its exhibits 
 evidenced the substantial prosperity that exists in that 
 country, and the high position it occupies amongst 
 industrial countries, in many departments of manufacture. 
 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 The principal articles exhibited were samples of iron 
 and steel manufactures ; but there was, in addition, a 
 great display of the celebrated Brussels and Mechlin 
 laces, of woollens and linens, carpets, silk embroideries, 
 marble mantel-pieces, and numerous ether exhibits, all 
 of high finish and excellent design. A beautifully carved 
 pulpit and canopy had many admirers, and was the 
 piece de resistance in this court. 
 
 Brazil, which next claimed attention, seemed to have 
 made a great effort to show a worthy display at this 
 World's Fair ; and had erected a most gorgeous pavilion, 
 resplendent in all the colours of the rainbow, in which 
 to display its various exhibits. These represented the 
 products of the empire over which Dom Pedro reigns, 
 and consisted principally of numerous samples of coffee, 
 rice, sarsaparilla, cocoa, ginger, various barks, woods, 
 and specimens of gold and ivory, both manufactured 
 and otherwise. The remaining space in the court was 
 filled out with stuffed birds, artificial flowers, and many 
 articles of native Indian manufiicture. 
 
 The small Court of the Netherlands, which was in 
 close proximity to that of its neighbour, Belgium, was 
 crowded with a heterogeneous collection of articles, both 
 of use and luxury ; and many hours were requisite, 
 properly to note and admire its many excellent exhibits. 
 These were of the most varied description, and con- 
 si':ted in part of rich Delft carpets, woollens of beautifully 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 187 
 
 soft texture, silk fabrics, jute manufactures ; tin, iron, 
 and wooden ware ; elegant screens, papier-mache 
 articles, samples of woods and metals ; and number- 
 less articles, representing various other industries. A 
 conspicuous feature in this section was the collection 
 exhibited by the Artizans' School of Rotterdam, an 
 institution founded in 1869 ^^r lads of twelve to fifteen 
 to be "practically and theoretically trained to become 
 clever artizans." 
 
 The Mexican display was specially remarkable for 
 exhibits representing the ancient Aztec civilization. 
 
 Next to the Mexican, came the grand display of the 
 United States, which occupied more than one-fourth of 
 the floor-space in the main building, and was arranged on 
 both sides of the main avenue. The exhibits comprised 
 an infinity of articles, especially of those that tend to 
 economize labour and time, and therefore, to reduce the 
 cost of production. They showed how closely the States 
 are treading on Great Britain's heels, in certain depart- 
 ments of manufacture ; and with what right, they can 
 now claim a foremost place amongst the great industrial 
 and producing nations of the world. A large amount of 
 space '^'^'^'ms to have been allotted to each individual 
 exhibitor, and unlike the British exhibits, a great deal of 
 attention appears to have been devoted to the embellish- 
 ment of the articles displayed ; so that they had generally 
 a more attractive appearance. They were in fact 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 essentially exhibition goods, whereas the British exhibits, 
 with few exceptions, seemed to be samples of the ordinary 
 manufactures of the exhibitors. Never before has the 
 multiplicity of American products, and the skill, ingenuity, 
 and taste of her artizans, been so prominently exhibited ; 
 and it appeared to me, that nothing but the high price of 
 many of the commodities, will preclude them from success- 
 fully competing in the markets of the world. The quantity 
 and bulk of the various exhibits called the attention to 
 them of those visitors wlio might otherwise liave passed 
 them unnoticed ; such vtas the case with the cotton goods. 
 There were numerous exhibits of plated-ware, and although 
 they could not be compared to the splendid collection 
 exhibited by Elkington in the British section ; they were 
 yet noteworthy, for many improvements introduced. A 
 great display was made of chandeliers and gasaliers of 
 all description, some of most novel construction. The 
 exhibits generally, comprised samples of all classes of 
 manufactures, prominent amongst which, might be seen 
 tweeds, prints, silk thread, paper, pianos, brass fittings, 
 books, stationery, cutlery and edge tools, locks, fittings, 
 crystal lustres, glassware, and a diversity of other articles. 
 The tweeds though very good did not to my mind 
 favourably compare with the Canadian. In glassware 
 and more especially cut glassware the American exhibits 
 did not come up by a long way to those of other 
 countries. 
 
 a: 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHimilON. 
 
 189 
 
 «w3re 
 
 chibits 
 
 other 
 
 Adjoining the United States Court, was that of Ger- 
 many, which, compared with the large amount of space 
 occupied by Great Britain, France, and the United States, 
 was very small in size. It seemed to be the general 
 opinion that the display in it, though very excellent in its 
 way, was yet inadequate to give a correct idea of the high 
 position occupied by the German Empire as a manufac- 
 turing country. The exhibits in this section, if not 
 numerous, were however of a high degree of excellence, 
 and could only have been the products of great skill, 
 combined with artistic taste. They comprised samples 
 of woollen fabrics, velveteens, beautiful glass-ware, 
 porcelain-ware, brass musical instruments, pianos, sur- 
 gical instruments, drugs, bronzes, gildings, and toys of 
 ingenious construction, capable of raising the youthful 
 heart into the seventh heaven of delight. All these 
 exhibits displayed fine workmanship and finish, and a 
 decided pre-eminence in many of the classes. The 
 bronzes compared very favourably with those of their 
 great rival France, but, representing as they for the most 
 part did, the public men of the Empire ; there was not 
 the same room for the display of those beautiful designs, in 
 which the French excel, and by means of which, they 
 have obtained such an acknowledged superiority in the 
 fabrication of these goods. 
 
 Next to the German came the Austro-Hungarian 
 Department, which contained a most attractive collection 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 of exquisite articles in Bohemian glass, many of which 
 might easily have been mistaken for Venetian manufac- 
 ture ; stained glass for windows, beautifully enamelled 
 glassware, furniture, wood-carvings, amber goods, elegantly 
 carved meerschaum pipes, carpets, woollens, real and 
 imitation jewellery ; and a varied assortment of fancy 
 goods of all descriptions, forming a display, that was very 
 creditable to the great country that produced it. 
 
 The Russian Court, that was next in order, occupied 
 but a small amount of space, and that was not very well 
 filled. The articles exhibited however, proved that 
 Russia is making great strides in its manufactures. 
 Amongst a host of other things, some silver-work in 
 repousse was exhibited, of great taste and novelty, the 
 various designs being original, and displaying a distinctive 
 national character. 
 
 The Spanish Section, the one next to the Russian, was 
 •entered from the transept, through a large and very elabo- 
 rate entrance, constructed in three arches, in imitation of 
 pink granite, with bronze facings, draped with yellow and 
 crimson silk hangings. This was surmounted by a design, 
 representing Spain drawing back a curtain and revealing 
 to the assembled nations the mountains and green valleys 
 of the American Continent. Over one archway was a 
 picture of Columbus ; over the other one of Isabella III. 
 From the central arch hung a magnificent gothic candela- 
 brum of oxydised silver and brass, contributed by King 
 
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 THE CENTENNIAL EXHIHITION. 
 
 191 
 
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 fancy 
 
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 :upied 
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 .ctures. 
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 low and 
 design, 
 
 jvealing 
 
 I valleys 
 
 was a 
 
 lUa III. 
 landela- 
 ly King 
 
 Alfonso. There were also other contributions from the 
 Royal Collection, including carved woods inlaid with 
 gold, splendid tapestries, china and porcelain vases, and 
 other articles of rare beauty. An ex([uisitcly carved side- 
 board by Forzano Bros, was a prominent exhibit in this 
 section. The Azulejos, — tiles resembling Italian mosaics, 
 — introduced into Spain by the Moors, were very much 
 admired. The remaining exhibits were i)rincipally com- 
 posed of damasks woven in arabesques, silks, magnificent 
 specimens of ladies' hosiery, and numerous other equally 
 beautiful articles de luxe. 
 
 The Egyptian Court had also a very ornate front to the 
 main avenue, covered with representations of Egyptian 
 architecture and bearing the appropriate inscription — 
 " The oldest of the Nations sends Soudan, — the morning 
 greeting to the youngest." In the manufactures of modem 
 date, a great display was made of gold embroidered 
 cloths, of richly decorated saddles, furniture inlaid with 
 ivory and mother-of-pearl, samples of paper, splendid 
 wood and metal carvings, woods, cotton and silk, both in 
 the raw and manufactured states \ together with some 
 excellent specimens of printing in Arabic, Coptic, and 
 Hieroglyphic characters. 
 
 The most interesting portion of the collection was, 
 however, the fragments of the ancient monuments, and 
 the antiques, that may have dated from before the pyra- 
 mids. Amongst the many noteworthy objects in this 
 
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 section, may he mentioned, three crystal lamps inlaid 
 with gold, from the great Mos(iiie at Cairo, which are 
 supposed to have an almost fabulous value ; the art of 
 making them being amongst those things that exist no 
 longer. 
 
 Turkey made but a very poor sliow, doubtless in con- 
 secjuence of its political troubles, bat an attempt was 
 made to cover the paucity of the display by the erection 
 of a gorgeous front. 
 
 Denmark made a very creditable display, principally of 
 works in terra-cotta, wood carvings, furniture, silver work, 
 and furs. This section well merited a few hours' close 
 inspection, as the various articles exhibited, were of excel- 
 lent quality ; and the designs had an individuality about 
 them, very interesting to those accustomed to the better- 
 known manufactures of the great industrial nations. 
 
 Japan next came with a characteristic display of vases, 
 and other ornaments in elaborately carved bronze and 
 painted china ; of textile fabrics, and of numerous articles in 
 lacquerwork ; all representing the skill, and delicate mani- 
 pulation of this ingenious people, and their shrewdness as 
 men of business; for all their exhibits had a ticket 
 attached giving the price in plain figures. 
 
 The Chinese did not appear to have taken as much 
 trouble with their collection, as their neighbours, the 
 Japanese had done, and their display was consequently 
 «ot so good. It consisted of articles characteristic of 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 193 
 
 Chinese manufactures, as silks, embroideries, painted 
 screens, chinaware, ivory and other carvings, lacquerwork, 
 papier-mach^ goods, articles made of soap-stone, &c. 
 
 Chili had a modest collection of minerals, native furs, 
 skins, stuffed wild animals, and interesting relics of the 
 Indian aborigines. 
 
 The small sections of the Argentine Republic, Peru, 
 and the Orange Free State, were well stored with the 
 various products of those countries. 
 
 We have now completed the circuit of the Main-build- 
 ing, but it is impossible, that a reader, from this cursory 
 and brief description of its contents, could form a proper 
 conception of the surpassing beauty and dazzling nature 
 of this enormous exhibition. There are so many other 
 buildings connected with this World's Fair to be visited, 
 that we must at once proceed to the 
 
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 Machinery Hall. 
 
 This structure might almost be called a continuation 
 of the main building, having only been separated from it, 
 by a small square, laid out in walks, and planted with 
 ornamental shrubs and plants. The building consisted 
 of a main hall 1,402 feet long and 360 feet wide ; together 
 with an annexe on the south side. Its cost of construc- 
 tion was $700,000. The Main-building and Machinery 
 Hall together, presented a frontage of three-quarters of a 
 mile to the grand avenue. 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 The display in Machinery Hall was perhaps the most 
 instructive and entertaining part of the whole exhibition ; 
 for almost every machine used in the different manufac- 
 tures was here to be seen in operation. 
 
 This section seemed to have the greatest attraction for 
 visitors, and it was at all times difficult to approach the 
 most interesting of the machines, on account of the 
 crowds of people that always surrounded them. Standing 
 in the centre of the vast collection, was the great Corliss 
 Engine, that generated the motive power, by which all 
 the machinery in the hall was set in motion. 
 
 Some idea of the magnitude of this enormous piece of 
 machinery may be gathered from the fact, that it rose to 
 a height of 40 feet above the floor ; that its gear-wheel 
 was 30 feet in diameter, and 56 tons in weight ; and that 
 it could work up to 1,400 horse power. In spite of its 
 great size, this engine ran with great smoothness, and 
 almost merited the rhapsodies into which American 
 writers seemed to fall, when describing it. 
 
 Though the greater portion of the grand display in 
 Machinery Hall belonged to the United States; yet 
 Great Britain, Canada, France, Germany, Belgium, Den- 
 mark, Sweden, and Italy were all more or less repre- 
 sented. 
 
 What seemed to strike every visitor to this section, was 
 the high finish of the machines of American manufacture; 
 the various makers having gone to great expense in 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 195 
 
 the most 
 hibition ; 
 manufac- 
 
 action for 
 roach the 
 nt of the 
 Standing 
 at Corliss 
 which all 
 
 [S piece of 
 ; it rose to 
 gear-wheel 
 ; and that 
 jpite of its 
 jhness, and 
 American 
 
 [display in 
 States; yet 
 dum, Den- 
 lless repre- 
 
 jction, was 
 
 Inufacture ; 
 
 xpense in 
 
 turning them out, resplendent in polished nickle and 
 brass. 
 
 It will only be possible to enumerate briefly those 
 machines ihat were the most interesting, and that attracted 
 the most attention. 
 
 The Walter Press exhibited by the proprietors of the 
 London Times newspaper, which was in operation, 
 printing off copies of the New York Herald, was much 
 admired ; as were also several printing machines of 
 American design and construction. 
 
 There were numerous exhibits of locomotives of great 
 power and fine finish ; enormous mining machinery ; 
 pumps of all kinds, the centrifugal especially being very 
 excellent ; blowers of such power, that they had to be 
 cautiously approached ; together with all the various 
 machinery connected with wood-working, brick-making, 
 barrel-making, ship-building, nail-making, watch-making, 
 cork-cutting, shingle-splitting, &c. There were also im- 
 proved fire-engines and escapes, dredges and apparatus 
 for saving life at sea. In one machine exhibited, the 
 attempt had been made to supersede steam as a motive 
 power ; and though the new agent is a trifle more costly, 
 still it has so many other advantages to counterbalance 
 that one disadvantage, that it may come into general use 
 for many purposes. The motive power is gas, supplied 
 from an ordinary burner, fixed near the bottom of the 
 cylinder. Gas and air being admitted under the piston, 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 and exploded ; the sudden expansion of the gas drives up 
 the piston rapidly, and by the time it has reached the end 
 of its stroke, the temperature falls, and condensation 
 produces a partial vacuum under the piston ; and the 
 downward stroke is effected by the pressure of the 
 external atmosphere. This is a German invention, and 
 the advantages claimed for it are, that no boiler or furnace 
 is requisiie ; that it can be set in motion as soon as 
 wanted, and stopped almost instantaneously ; and that no 
 fuel is wasted when the machine comes to a standstill. 
 The Brayton hydro-carbon engine is an American 
 invention, in which a mixture of vapourized oil and water 
 is used, to produce the same effect, as in the one above 
 described. 
 
 The exhibitors of a safe almost circular in form, claimed 
 for it greater strength to resist fire and thieves, than the 
 safes of ordinary square shape. There was also one of 
 the chronometer safes shown ; these have two chrono- 
 meters affixed to the door, and in case one might go 
 wrong, both are set to the time at which it is desired the 
 door should be open. Until that time arrives, the door is 
 firmly closed, and cannot by any means be opened. 
 
 A very interesting machine was one for manufacturing 
 envelopes, which had only to be fed with paper and gum, 
 and would discharge the envelopes finished, and counted 
 into packets at the rate of 7,200 per hour. This machine 
 being open, the operation of envelope-making could be 
 
 5»: 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 197 
 
 gas drives up 
 ached the end 
 
 condensation 
 ton ; and the 
 essure of the 
 invention, and 
 oiler or furnace 
 )n as soon as 
 y J and that no 
 to a standstill. 
 
 an American 
 d oil and water 
 I the one above 
 
 nform, claimed 
 lieves, than the 
 vas also one of 
 /e two chrono- 
 one might go 
 is desired the 
 ves, the door is 
 )e opened, 
 manufacturing 
 3aper and gum, 
 d, and counted 
 This machine 
 Hiking could be 
 
 seen in all its stages ; and there was generally an admiring 
 crowd surrounding it. 
 
 There was an enormous display of weaving machinery, 
 and the processes of manufacture of tweeds, carpets, 
 cotton and woollen goods, could be seen in all the 
 stages from the raw material to the finished product. In 
 this department an exhibitor from Brazil displayed the 
 process of silk manufacture, from winding the silk off the 
 cocoon, to its being woven into beautiful articles of 
 every-day use. Here also was shown a new invention 
 for weaving horsehair, by which it is claimed the present 
 cost of production is reduced one-third. 
 
 A number of rock-drilling machines for quarrying, and 
 tunnelling purposes were always to be seen in operation, 
 and the ease with which they pierced the hardest masses 
 of stone was wonderful. In close proximity were 
 machines for making gas in houses distant from a town, 
 and which would be very useful for up-country districts 
 in Australia. The well is filled with oil, and the 
 machine wound up, like a clock ; when it will go on 
 producing gas for some time without heat of any kind 
 being used. 
 
 Nail-making machines were in great profusion. One 
 that turned out 400 tacks per minute, was especially 
 admired, as it was only requisite to feed it occasionally 
 with f« long iron rod. An india-rubber mill, where 
 several men were engaged in manufacturing goloshes, 
 
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 198 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 was an interesting machine, showing every stage of 
 manufacture, from the crude material, as it exudes from 
 the tree, to the highly finished articles of commerce. 
 
 Some barrels, tubs, and buckets, made out of paper 
 attracted much attention, and seemed very serviceable 
 looking articles ; the barrels especially, though without 
 hoops, and of straighter shape than is usual, were con- 
 sidered quite as strong as, and more economical than 
 those made from hickory-wood. They are light in 
 weight, cannot be broken, and hold fluids as perfectly 
 as vessels of clay or metal. 
 
 A pretty little instrument, and one that may in time 
 become a necessity in every counting-house, was the 
 electrical pen, by the use of which the cost of 
 lithography may be saved. 
 
 This pen is very simple in its construction, being 
 made like a pencil-case, a needle taking the place of the 
 lead ; this is connected with a small galvanic battery, 
 which causes a wheel on the top of the pen to revolve 
 and move the needle up and down, at the rate of 
 several thousand strokes a minute. As this pen is moved 
 along the paper, the needle punctures the writing, and 
 forms what is called the " proof," which is then put in a 
 small press, sold with the electrical pen, and by passing 
 the roller over it, the requisite number of copies are made, 
 which look as if they had been lithographed. For 
 printing price-currents, circulars, &c., this instrument 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 199 
 
 r Stage of 
 Ludes from 
 nerce. 
 t of paper 
 serviceable 
 [gh without 
 I, were con- 
 )mical than 
 re light in 
 as perfectly 
 
 nay in time 
 se, was the 
 he cost of 
 
 :tion, being 
 )lace of the 
 Liiic battery, 
 
 to revolve 
 
 Ithe rate of 
 
 en is moved 
 
 writing, and 
 
 (hen put in a 
 
 by passing 
 
 |es are made, 
 
 )hed. For 
 
 instrument 
 
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 will, I imagine, in time come into use ; its cost at 
 present is ^^y, but this will, doubtless, be reduced when 
 the demand for it increases. Another adaptation of 
 electricity was to the sewing machine, which seemed to 
 me likely also to come into general use. A parlour 
 scroll- saw for cutting out wood and other materials, 
 worked in the same manner as a sewing-machine, is an 
 ingenious little machine. There were also shown 
 stationary engines, worked by petroleum, at a cost of a 
 few half-pence per hour. A very useful machine, and 
 one that might advantageously be introduced into the 
 colonies, was one for removing the burr from wool, 
 without destroying the staple. 
 
 Another remarkably ingenious little instrument, was 
 one intended to supersede the use of the pen. This was 
 worked by pressing various keys, in the same manner 
 as playing on a piano. A lady, who showed the 
 working of this instrument, had attained such proficiency, 
 that she could print at the rate of ninety words a minute. 
 
 A handy machine was one that weighs and packs 
 parcels of flours, sugars, or spices : this would be very 
 useful to grocers and other tradesmen. A patent cleat 
 was exhibited, that renders unnecessary the holding of the 
 corner of the sail, and that removes the danger that may 
 arise from having the sheet belayed. This will prove a 
 great boon to yachtsmen and others. The Covel saw- 
 sharpener, that requires no supervision, is a machine that 
 
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 200 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 will most probably come into general use. The list of 
 these useful machines might be continued at great length 
 were it not that there is yet much more to be seen and 
 commented upon. 
 
 Before leaving Machinery Hall, it may be well to know 
 the opinion of American critics, on the relative merits of 
 the English and American exhibits, in this section. Eng- 
 land they acknowledge to excel the States in armour- 
 plating ; there being no rolling-mill plants in the latter, 
 that could handle plates 2 1 }^ inches in thickness, such as 
 were exhibited in the British section. England is also 
 declared pre-eminent in " steam-hammers, road-steamers, 
 steam-rollers, portable engines, steam-ploughs, hydraulic 
 presses, marine engines, and mining engines of the Cor- 
 nish pattern, sugar plant, and paper-making machinery." 
 America is considered first in the manufacture of " har- 
 vesting, sewing, knitting, and hat-making machines ; 
 quartz and stone crushers, amalgamators, deep-well 
 borers, weighing scales, breech-loading small arms, and 
 special tools for the manufacture of articles made of 
 many pieces, by the means of templets and gauges, 
 the Enfield special machines made for the English 
 armoury, and the Mauser machines for the armoury 
 of Germany ; metallic fixed ammunition; watches 
 made by special machines to scale and pattern, with 
 interchangeable parts; wood-working tools and barrel 
 machinery ; wooden bridges, steam fire-engines, safes and 
 
 -uiMiWi ii*riiwwi»fc«. 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 201 
 
 safe locks, hay and cotton presses, sodawater machines, 
 hotel and warehouse elevators, cheap good clocks, cast- 
 iron car-wheels, web printing and folding machines, 
 heating apparatus for houses, rubber goods, saws, and the 
 extensive substitution of belting for gear in transmitting 
 power." The two countries are supposed to divide 
 honours in the following articles : " Planers, lathes, slotting 
 and shaping machines, water-wheels, rotary pumps, 
 blowers, locomotives, and steam gauges." 
 
 Having now briefly enumerated the principal objects of 
 interest in Machinery Hall, we will proceed to another 
 portion of the Exhibition, the 
 
 Memorial Hall. 
 
 This building, used as an Art gallery, was erected by 
 the State of Pennsylvania, at a cost of a million and a 
 half dollars ; and was undoubtedly the finest of the Exhi- 
 bition buildings. As it was intended to be a permanent 
 addition to Fairmount Park, it is constructed throughout 
 of stone, brick, and iron, in the modern Renaissance style, 
 and is surmounted by a dome of iron and glass. It is 365 
 feet in length, 210 feet in width, and 150 feet high to the 
 top of the dome, from which rises a colossal figure of 
 Columbus. At the corners of the base of this dome stand 
 four large figures, representing the four quarters of the 
 globe ; whilst at the corners of the four pavilions are large 
 cast-iron eagles, with outstretched wings. The main 
 
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 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
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 entrance consists of three arched doorways, opening into 
 a hall, and between these, are clusters of columns, termi- 
 nating in emblematical designs, descriptive of science and 
 art. The doors are of iron, relieved by bronze panels, 
 displaying the coat of arms of each State of the Union. 
 
 Though not by any means a model of architectural 
 beauty, this building still forms a fitting memorial of 
 the Centenary of American Independence. 
 
 Passing from the Main building, or Machinery Hall, to 
 the Memorial Hall, which contained the exhibition of 
 paintings and statuary, the change from the grand display 
 in the two former, which quite overshadowed any previous 
 exhibition, to the paucity of the Art collection exhibited 
 in the latter, was very striking. It was not, that the 
 collection was small, for it covered an immense wall 
 space ; but there was a marked absence of works of high 
 art. Great Britain contributed some fine water-colour 
 paintings, and pictures by West, Lawrence, Gainsborough, 
 Turner, Maclise, Millais, Holman Hunt, Leighton, and 
 Frith. The latter's " Marriage of the Prince of Wales" 
 was very much admired, and always had a large crowd 
 around it. In the French department there were several 
 specimens of gobelin tapestry, the designs on which 
 included Maillard's " Penelope," Boucher's " Amynthe 
 and Sylvie," and Boucher's " Fishing." There were also 
 some paintings in this section of great merit, and the 
 collection altogether was very creditable. 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 203 
 
 The Spanish contribution was small, but included two 
 fine Murillos. 
 
 Germany had not a large collection, and the few 
 paintings exhibited did not particularly challenge admira- 
 tion. All the pictures had not been hung at the time of 
 my visit, and this section would doubtless have assumed 
 a more imposing appearance later on. 
 
 Italy and Austria both contributed large collections, 
 but the same may be said of them, that has already been 
 remarked of the other national collections, viz., that there 
 was an absence of works of great merit. 
 
 The United States monopolized a large portion of the 
 space, but the specimens of high art were few in number. 
 The great picture, great on account of the enormous wall 
 space it covered, filling up, as it did, the whole of one end 
 of a large room, was Rothermel's "Battle of Gettysburg." 
 This large picture did not, however, reflect much credit 
 on American art. Two of the most prominent pictures in 
 this section were West's " Christ Rejected by the Jewish 
 People," and Pauwel's great allegorical painting of the 
 " New Republic." 
 
 The Swedish collection was a very unassuming one, 
 but contained one picture that attracted a great deal of 
 attention, on account of its excellent delineation of a 
 comical subject ; viz., two boys smoking for the first time. 
 The fidelity with which the feeling of nausea was depicted 
 on the boys' faces, was marvellous. The Australian art 
 
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 204 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 exhibits were not shown in the Memorial Hall, but were 
 included in the general display made in the Main-building ; 
 in order to render the Australian show more effective. 
 
 Agricultural Hall. 
 
 Having " done " Memorial Hall and sufficiently 
 admired the art treasures there exhibited, we proceed to 
 the Agricultural Hall, which was built in Gothic form, 
 the interior resembling that of a Cathedral ; with a nave 
 820 feet in length, crossed by three transepts, each 540 
 feet long. 
 
 Some idea of the magnitude of the exhibition of 
 agricultural products and implements in this Hall, may 
 be formed, when it is remembered, that the exhibits 
 covered a space over ten acres in extent ; and that it 
 was necessary to traverse three miles of walks to inspect 
 them. It is only possible, without writing a volume on 
 the subject, briefly to summarize what was to be seen in 
 this department. 
 
 Great Britain and Ireland occupied only a small space, 
 but their exhibits were pre-eminent in their respective 
 classes. A great display was made of pickles, sauces, 
 mustard, cocoa, chocolate, essences, and aerated waters ; 
 also, what seemed more properly to belong to this 
 section; agricultural implements, edge tools, mill 
 machinery, farm engines, road steamers, steam rollers, &c. 
 
 A machine much admired was one, that, with the aid 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 205 
 
 of two men, could sack, dry, and dress 100 bushels of 
 wheat, or other grain, in one hour. Another enables one 
 man to separate fifty bushels of wheat or oats, from any 
 other grain, in the same time. 
 
 The Canadians exhibited a splendid assortment of 
 ploughs, mowers, threshing machines, churns, chaffcutters 
 and numerous other agricultural machines, of excellent 
 quality; and showed conclusively, that in this depart- 
 ment of manufacture, they are quite able to hold their 
 own against their neighbours in the United States, 
 assisted, as the latter are supposed to be, by a pro- 
 tective tariff. It may be remarked, that in the 
 matter of agricultural implements, Canada and the 
 United States monopolized nearly all the space in the 
 Hall. An excellent display was also made by Canada 
 of wool, wheat, prepared skins, ales and preserved fruits. 
 
 Germany was great in wines and beer, in tobacco and 
 cigars, in liqueurs and preserves ; and the section also 
 displayed a trophy composed of scythe blades and other 
 farm tools. 
 
 Venezuela made a great display of such products 
 as coffee, medicinal barks, samples of woods, starch, 
 soap and candles, cordials and fruits. 
 
 Brazil which was in close proximity, exhibited within 
 its handsome enclosure walls, samples of seeds and 
 grasses, tobacco leaf, polished woods and liquid extracts. 
 This section contained a little pavilion, constructed 
 
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 TRANSPACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
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 entirely of cotton fibre, in which were displayed samples 
 of cotton seeds and plants. 
 
 Japan exhibited its teas, preserves, its numberless varie- 
 ties of seeds, and curiously-made cane chairs. 
 
 The French exhibits had not all been arranged, and 
 they did not seem to give promise that the collection 
 would be a large one. As was to be expected the wines 
 of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne occupied a pro- 
 minent position. 
 
 The Netherlands succeeded in producing an impression 
 of solid prosperity. The exhibits coniprised grains, 
 spirits, beer and liqueurs, seeds, various preserved foods 
 and condiments, and numerous other exhibits, forming 
 together a collection, that worthily represented its agri- 
 cultural products. 
 
 Sweden and Norway had arranged their products in a 
 very pleasing manner. They included samples of bottled 
 ale, polished woods, grain, coffee, preserved fish, arrack, 
 cod-liver oil ; together with sealskins and other furs. An 
 attractive exhibit was the figure of a Laplander enveloped 
 in costly furs sitting in a sledge, drawn by a reindeer. 
 The Norwegian exhibits consisted principally of a number 
 of aquaria, containing numerous specimens of fish, which 
 proved a great source of attraction to crowds. There was 
 in addition, a magnificent collection of nets, seines, rods 
 and tackle ; together with all the implements connected 
 with pisciculture. 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 207 
 
 mples 
 
 varie- 
 
 d, and 
 lection 
 ; wines 
 I a pro- 
 
 )ression 
 grains, 
 d foods 
 forming 
 its agri- 
 
 cts in a 
 bottled 
 
 arrack, 
 irs. An 
 [veloped 
 
 indeer. 
 
 number 
 which 
 
 iere was 
 
 les, rods 
 mected 
 
 Portugal was represented by a multiplicity of articles 
 amongst which were wines, oils, wool, silk, cork, etc. 
 
 Italy was conspicuous with its wines, and oils, macca- 
 roni and other food preparations ; and though the collec- 
 tion generally was small, it was excellent of its kind. 
 
 Spain appeared to greater advantage in this depart- 
 ment, than it had done in the Main-building; display- 
 ing here fine samples of grains, seeds, fruits, timbers, 
 grasses, wines, oils, and other products of her teeming 
 soil ; illustrating how, with the blessings of peace, and the 
 help of skilled agriculturists, it might attain the first posi- 
 tion amongst European nations for products of the soil. 
 
 All these various national collections, interesting as 
 they were, seemed only subsidiary to the colossal display 
 of the United States, which occupied nearly three-fourths 
 of all the space in the hall. Of the American collection 
 it may be said that, whilst many of the States of the Union 
 were but poorly represented, the whole exhibition col- 
 lectively, was such, as to give a visitor a better idea of the 
 vastness of American resources, than any other portion of 
 the great World's Fair. The collection consisted of samples 
 of the products of all the various climates and soils, from 
 Maine to Louisiana, and from Florida to Oregon, the limits 
 of the enormous territory in the possession of the United 
 States ; and in its range comprised the grain, wine, wool, 
 and precious metals of California, and the raw and 
 manufactured tobacco, sugar, rice, and cotton of the 
 
 v} 
 
 1 1 
 
 • 1 
 
 !i 
 
 H 
 
 ' 'i 'i 
 
 M 
 
208 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 I :'i- 
 
 i^i! I 
 
 ll - 
 
 ! 
 
 1 ' 
 
 vi \ ■ 
 
 Southern States. The State of Oregon displayed 
 splendid specimens of merino and other wools, wheat 
 and barley, oats, Indian corn, and linseed. The exhibits 
 representing the agricultural products of most of the 
 other States bore a strong family likeness to one another, 
 and consisted for the most part of wheat, Indian corn, 
 and other grains, woods, seeds, &c. Each State, how- 
 ever, exhibited in addition something peculiarly its own, 
 thus Kentucky made a feature of its whiskies, and 
 Minnesota was to the fore with a magnificent assortment 
 of grains, representing its annual yield of thirty millions 
 of bushels. The display of timbers from Delaware and 
 Indiana was most imposing ; the former having exhibited 
 thirty- eight varieties, and the latter forty-three. 
 
 Exhibits of tinned fruits and vegetables were most 
 numerous, and proved how rapidly this species of pre- 
 served food is coming into general consumption. The 
 tinned fruits and vegetables only require warming, and 
 thus a wholesome food is made available during the 
 winter as well as the summer months. 
 
 One of the great features of this section was the 
 mammoth grape-vine, from California, which in the last 
 year or two showed signs of rapid decay, and was con- 
 sequently dug up, and the trunk and principal limbs sent 
 to the Centennial Show. The trunk is the thickness of 
 a man's body, and the produce of the vine in one season 
 was 7,500 bunches of grapes, of an estimated total 
 
rilK CKNTENMAI, EXHIIM TIOX. 
 
 209 
 
 played 
 wheat 
 ;xhibils 
 of the 
 mother, 
 in corn, 
 te, how- 
 its own, 
 ies, and 
 ,sortinent 
 I milUons 
 .ware and 
 exhibited 
 
 ^ere most 
 
 es of pre- 
 
 lon. The 
 
 |ming, and 
 
 uring the 
 
 was the 
 
 [n the last 
 
 was con- 
 
 |Umbs sent 
 
 [lickness of 
 
 3ne season 
 
 Lated total 
 
 weight of over five tons. This vine was supposed to be 
 over fifty years old, and it is satisfactory to know that it 
 has left offspring ; one of which, though only sixteen 
 years of age, is already a foot in diameter near the 
 ground and covers with its branches an area of 10,000 
 feet. 
 
 In addition to these, were the thousand and one 
 articles belonging to no State in particular, prominent 
 amongst which were to be seen sugar-coated hams, little 
 temples formed of confectionery, containing samples 
 of the candies so dear to the American heart ; biscuits, 
 honey, chocolate, tinned fruits, starch, maizena, canned 
 and dried fruits, tea and coffee, fertilizers of all kinds, 
 hickory-wood barrels, and indiarubber in its raw and 
 manufactured states. 
 
 This list gives but a very imperfect idea of the endless 
 variety of articles exhibited in this department ; and still 
 no mention has been made of the agricultural machinery, 
 which constituted the principal part of the display. 
 
 The most prominent of these exhibits comprised 
 ploughs, harrows, winnowers, potato-diggers, horse-rakes, 
 threshing-machines, hay-presses, stump-extractors, hay 
 and chaff-cutters, lawn-mowers, fruit-drying machines, 
 churns, reapers and binders, seed-sowers, maize-shellers, 
 fruit and potato-parers, cherry-stoners, and fruit-preserving 
 utensils ; each of which merits a special description for 
 its ingenious construction, and qualities as a labour-saver 
 
 15 
 
 1^* 
 
 " 
 
 i»? 
 
■Hi 
 
 2IO 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 y:i 
 
 and time-economizer; by means of which the cost of 
 production is so much lessened. 
 
 There is yet so much to be seen, that, we must leave 
 the Agricultural Hall, with this brief description of its 
 contents, and proceed to the 
 
 ■U' 
 
 i[ >■ 
 
 Horticultural Hall 
 
 which was in close proximity. This is intended to be 
 a permanent building, and is consequently more sub- 
 stantial and ornate, than the temporary structures. It 
 is built in the Moorish style, with fine frescoes ; and in 
 its warmth of colouring, presents a g^eat contrast to the 
 sober hues of the Memorial Hall. It is constructed 
 principally of iron and glass, is 383 feet in length, 193 
 feet in width, and consists of a large conservatory, and 
 forcing-houses for young plants. The east and west 
 entrances are approached by flights of marble steps, in 
 the centre of each of which, stands a pretty little open 
 Kiosk. The conservatory is ornamented with several 
 fine fountains, and its flower-beds contain many thou- 
 sand tulip and hyacinth bulbs, many of which were in 
 bloom at the time of my visit, and presented a lovely 
 appearance of rich colour. The horticultural collection 
 comprised specimens from all the zones; and though- 
 scanty in its proportions, yet formed a most interesting 
 portion of the Exhibition. The flora of Australia was 
 poorly represented by a few palms, fig-trees, and 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHllilTION. 
 
 211 
 
 le cost of 
 
 must leave 
 otion of its 
 
 eucalypti. The great feature of the whole collection was 
 a specimen of Venus' fly-trap (Dionaca) which, with its 
 sensitive tentacles, seizes its prey, and holds it fast, to be 
 devoured at leisure. The fame of this rare carnivorous 
 plant spread rapidly, and thousands visited the horticul- 
 tural building to see it. 
 
 nded to be 
 more sub- 
 ictures. It 
 oes ; and in 
 ntrast to the 
 constructed 
 
 \ length, 193 
 irvatory, and 
 St and west 
 lie steps, in 
 |y little open 
 [with several 
 many thou- 
 ich were in 
 [ted a lovely 
 al collection 
 and though- 
 ,t interesting 
 ustralia was 
 -trees, and 
 
 Subsidiary Buildings. 
 
 The five buildings above described formed the principal 
 portion of the exhibition, but there were in addition 
 numerous smaller structures in the grounds, used for 
 special purposes. 
 
 One of these was the Women's Pavilion, a very 
 pleasing and commodious building, erected by the 
 Women of America at a cost of $30,000 collected by 
 subscription. This building contained a nave and 
 transept, each 192 feet long and was surmounted by a 
 cupola. Its special purpose was to contain exhibits of 
 female work only, and thus be a nivans of pointing out 
 occupations of usefulness and profit, adapted to women. 
 The collection in this building represented those pursuits, 
 for which women are specially adapted, as sculi)ture, 
 painting, literature, engraving, telegraphy, lithograpiiy, 
 and education. Articles of female attire, with the excep- 
 tion of embroidery, lace and needlework, were excluded 
 from exhibition. In this department, the Royal Society 
 of Needlewomen, instituted, and presided over I believe, 
 
 ^:M 
 
 
 I 
 
 # 
 
5--- 
 
 ^JWtii.",iaJCTnrs.-j; 
 
 212 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 SI 
 
 i:i H i 
 
 h 
 
 by Her Majesty the Queen, exhibited some splendid 
 needlework, and tapestry. Those branches of education, 
 for which women are specially adapted, such as the 
 Kindergarten and object-teaching, were prominently 
 shown. A great attraction to this section were 
 looms, worked by women, employed in making carpets 
 and other delicate work. These were always surrounded 
 by an admiring crowd. 
 
 The Government Building was another of these 
 auxiliary structures, and in it were displayed exhibits 
 from the United States Treasury, War, Navy, and Interior 
 departments and from the Smithsonian Institute for the 
 purpose of " illustrating the administrative faculties of the 
 Government in time of peace, and its resources as a war 
 power ; and thereby serving to demonstrate the nature 
 of our institutions, and their adaptation to the wants of 
 the people." Here was to be seen the operation of 
 making rifles and ammunition ; here were cannon, 
 mounted and unmounted ; gun carriages, shot and shell ; 
 iron-plates and torpedoes ; equipments for land and sea 
 service ; models of bridges, forts and hospitals ; models 
 of war vessels and a thousand other exhibits representing 
 the department of marine survey, and the weather signal; 
 and '"ghthouse services. The Smithsonian Institute 
 displayed illustrations of the geology, mineralogy, forestry 
 and natural history of the States. 
 
 Photographic Hall and Brewers' Hall were also sub- 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHir.ITION. 
 
 213 
 
 splendid 
 education, 
 :h as the 
 rominently 
 tion were 
 ing carpets 
 surrounded 
 
 • of these 
 ed exhibits 
 and Interior 
 tute for the 
 :uhies of the 
 •ces as a war 
 i the nature 
 he wants of 
 operation of 
 2re cannon, 
 )t and shell ; 
 and and sea 
 Itals ; models 
 representing 
 ather signal", 
 n Institute 
 llogy, forestry 
 
 ere 
 
 clso sub- 
 
 sidiary adjuncts to the Exhibition. The former was 
 partitioned inside to form seven galleries, for the hanging 
 of photographs, and the display of photographic 
 appliances. The latter was erected by persons con- 
 nected with the brewing interest, to show the process of 
 manufacture, and the newest appliances used in the 
 trade. 
 
 In addition to these were also many smaller buildings, 
 erected by private enterprise, amongst which may be 
 enumerated, a very complete glassworks ; a pretty little 
 ^ uv^ilion, in which were exhibited Singer's sewing ma- 
 chines. Another contained coffins of so gorgeous a 
 nature, that one felt almost tempted to die in order to 
 occupy one of those grand receptacles. One was used as 
 a bakery ; another as a dairy ; and still another contained 
 exhibits of leather, boots and shoes. One of the most 
 interesting of these smaller buildings, was a little wooden 
 house, such as was used at the time of the Revolution, 
 filled witli revolutionary relics, each article of furniture 
 possebP '-ir ,1 ^listory of its own. In this house also were 
 seven*' ' a'd women dressed in the costumes of that 
 period, anc jr^aged in various occupations, the women 
 for the most part spinning with the old distaff. Another 
 interesting object ^ as the Canadian log-house, composed 
 of all the different kinds of wood grown in the Dominion. 
 
 There were several model school-houses erected in the 
 grour ' >. one of the most perfect being the Swedish, which 
 
■S, 
 
 
 
 i J! 
 
 214 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 was admirably ndiipted for the purpose intended, that of 
 a country scliool. A Turkish cafe had many visitors, as 
 also a Tunisian cafe, where a woman dressed in the 
 national garb, danced the scarf dance to the music (save 
 the mark !) of three outlandish looking instruments. 
 
 Each State of the Union had its special Commissioner's 
 house, and these were all different in design, and were 
 for the most part attractive buildings. 
 
 The British Comn> s^'^n'^rs had a large building, repre- 
 senting a squire's hou.s< the sixteenth century, which 
 with its tile roof, and big chimney stacks looked very 
 well. It was furnished in the style of that period, and 
 formed not the least interesting feature of the Exhibition. 
 
 The Japanese building was also very interesting, being 
 a facsimile of the houses used by the Japanese middle 
 class. In its construction not a single nail had been 
 used, all the material having been dove-tailed and mor- 
 tised, and fastened with wooden pins. 
 
 The great Centennial Fountain, erected by the Catholic 
 Total Abstinence Society, and intended to be a perma- 
 nent ornament to the grounds, merits a few words. In 
 the midst of a large circular basin, stands a pile of rocks, 
 surmounted by a figure of Moses fifteen feet high, pointing 
 upwards, to show the source of the miracle just per- 
 formed, in bringing out the water from the rocks, at the 
 stroke of his wand ; whilst the water gushing forth on all 
 sides falls into the basin. Four arms stretch out in the 
 
 mssm 
 
THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 215 
 
 form of a Maltese cross, terminating in four drinking 
 fountains, eacli crowned by a statue nine feet high, 
 representing — Commodore Barry, the father of the 
 American Navy ; Archbishop Carroll, the patriot priest 
 uf the Revolution ; Chas Carroll, of Carrollton, the 
 Catholic signer of the Declaration of Independence ; 
 and Father Mathevv, the Apostle of Temperance, who, 
 with Chas. Duncombe, a Protestant minister, Richard 
 Dowden, a Unitarian pliilanthropist, and William Martin, 
 a Quaker, founded in Cork, in 1838, that society 
 which was destined in a few years to count its converts 
 by millions, and to spread its influence wherever the 
 English language was spoken. These statues are all of 
 marble ; and round the basin are seven medallions, 
 heads of Catholic soldiers and civilians who dis- 
 tinguished themselves during the Revolution. 
 
 About the grounds are fine statues of Dr. Wotherspoon, 
 Wm. Penn, Columbus, and a huge granite monument 
 to the American army, weighing, it is said, thirty tons. 
 The bronze figure of Wm. Penn is thirty feet high, 
 and is only exceeded in size by two bronze statues in 
 the world. The statue erected by the brotherhood of 
 the B'nai Berith, typifying religious liberty, is worthy of 
 notice ; the figures and pedestal are twenty feet high, 
 and consist of a female figure representing American 
 Liberty protecting a youth slightly draped, holding in 
 one hand an urn containing the sacred flame. 
 
 ■ I 
 
 I - 
 
 ''Ml 
 
■ - 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 The various exhibition buildings having been at some 
 distance from one another, communication was effected 
 by means of a narrow gauge railway, which ran round 
 the grounds, stopping at the principal buildings. 
 
 Before closing this chapter, I may mention that the 
 preparations made for the accommodation of the antici- 
 pated great influx of visitors, were very complete, and 
 there was consequently no difficulty in obtaining apart- 
 ments. In the hotel where I lived, the Globe, — a 
 temporary building erected just outside the Exhibition 
 grounds, — there was accommodation for 3,000 guests ; 
 and during the time of my stay, there were never more 
 than T,5oo in the house. There were also numerous 
 other large temporary hotels near the grounds, at all of 
 which accommodation could be had at the usual 
 American hotel rates. Private apartments could also be 
 obtained in the city at very moderate cost. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 15ALTIM0RE, ANNAPOLIS, AND WAS1IINC;T0N. 
 
 Journey to Baltimore — Description of the City— Monuments — 
 Public Edifices — Commerce — Annapolis — Senate Ch:imber — 
 Naval College — District of Columbia — Decentralization — The 
 City of Washington — Its Appearance — The Capitol Ameri- 
 can Speakers comjiared with l^nglish — White 1 louse — 
 Treasury — Patent Office — Other Public Buildings— National 
 Memorial — Smithsonian Institute — Corcoran Gallery of Art — 
 Howard University. 
 
 After having spent a couple of weeks in Philadelphia, 
 I was soon conveyed by rail to Baltimore, the chief city 
 of Maryland, and in population and commerce, one of 
 the principal in the United States. The scenery on the 
 route from Philadelphia to Baltimore is uninteresting, 
 although numerous well-cultivated farms, and many 
 thriving towns are passed. Amongst the latter may be 
 enumerated Chester, the oldest town in Pennsylvania, it 
 having been settled by some Swedes in 1643 ; Wilming- 
 ton, the capital of the State of Delaware with a population 
 of over 30,000, and the seat of many important industries; 
 and Newark, a pretty little place, containing the well- 
 known Delaware College. Shortly after leaving the latter 
 place, the train crosses the celebrated Mason and 
 Dixon's line, so long the boundary between the Northern 
 
2l8 
 
 TRAN.5-rACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 and Southern States. At Havre de Grace we crossed the 
 beautiful Susquehanna River, with its numerous pretty 
 islands, on a bridge nearly a mile in length. This has 
 been erected in place of the one destroyed by the 
 Confederate soldiers in the late Civil War, for the 
 purpose of cutting off the Federal communication with 
 Washington. 
 
 Baltimore is situated on the Patapsco River, about 
 fourteen miles from the entrance to Chesapeake Bay ; its 
 harbour is very capacious, and consists of an inner and 
 outer basin, protected by Fort McHenry. The city is 
 very much like a large English provincial town in 
 appearance, and cannot by any means be called pretty ; 
 the streets being narrow, and closely built upon ; but it is 
 one of the cleanest towns in America. The inhabitants, 
 who pride themselves upon being the handsomest people 
 in the States, are quiet and orderly ; and the town 
 generally has a more homely appearance than is usually 
 the case with American cities. Altogether I would as 
 soon live in Baltimore, as in any town in the United States. 
 Baltimore is sometimes called the " Monumental City;" 
 why, — it is difficult to imagine ; because it only possesses 
 three Monuments, which are however very fine. The 
 Washington Memorial is a Doric shaft 176 feet in height, 
 resting on a huge pedestal, and supporting a colossal 
 statue of AVashington ; it forms a very imposing landmark. 
 Battle Monument, erected to the memory of those, who 
 
 •mm 
 
 sssa 
 
I'.ALTiMORE. 
 
 219 
 
 fell in defending the city in 18 14, when attacked by tlie 
 British, is also a fine cokimn in the form of a Roman 
 Fasces, surmounted by a female figure representing 
 Baltimore, the base being in the form of an Egyptian 
 temple. There is also a fine statue erected in honor of 
 Thomas Wildey, the founder in the States of the order 
 of Odd Fellows. 
 
 The principal edifice in the city is the new City Hall, 
 one of the finest municipal buildings in the country. It 
 is built entirely of white marble, in the composite style, 
 surmounted by an immense dome ; but it stands in a 
 narrow street, where its fine proportions are not seen to 
 advantage. The Exchange is a fine building, having on 
 its two fa(,'ades colonnades of six Ionic columns, the 
 shafts of which are single blocks of marble of admirable 
 workmanship. It is crowned by a large cupola, beau- 
 tifully frescoed in the interior, and contains a fine 
 readmg-room. In this building are the Post Office, the 
 Custom House and the Merchants' Bank. The JJalti- 
 more Athenreum is a fine institution, with a library of 
 26,000 volumes. The Peabody Institute is a fine white 
 marble building erected by the late George Peabody the 
 well-known philanthropist ; it contains a free library of 
 56,000 books, and in connection with it, is an Academy 
 of Arts. 
 
 The Catholic Cathedral is a stately edifice of granite, 
 and contains two excellent paintings, — "the Descent 
 
. ^*' 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 from the Cross," presented by Louis XVI., and — "St. 
 Louis burying his officers and soldiers slain before 
 Tunis," the gift of Charles X. There are numerous 
 other fine church edifices, foremost amongst which may 
 be enumerated Grace Church, Christ Church, Emanuel 
 Church, St. Paul's and St. Peter's, all of which are P^piscopal. 
 The First Presbyterian is an elaborate building and the 
 Unitarian Church is also a handsome and very unique 
 structure. 
 
 There are many Educational and Charitable institu- 
 tions in the city, some of them possessing fine buildings, 
 and being of a very high order; in fact, in this respect, 
 Baltimore is better provided than most of the other large 
 American towns. 
 
 The population of Baltimore is over 300,000, and its 
 commerce is very important; it being a large port of 
 exp Tt to Europe for tobacco, cotton, petroleum, bacon, 
 dairy produce, &c. It also contains large smelting 
 works, and is the centre from which the rich copper 
 mines of Lake Superior are worked. Its industries 
 •consist of ironworks, rolling-mills, nail factories, locomo- 
 tive works, and cotton factories ; and its tanning trade is 
 also large, it being computed, that half a million of hides 
 are annually tanned and exported to New England. The 
 tinning of oysters, fruits, and vegetables, is carried on 
 very extensively ; the annual value of this industry being 
 ^estimated at a million sterling. 
 
 ^^«»^>.*».H:.jii«>iwv^ 
 
AXXAPOMS. 
 
 221 
 
 I availed myself of a'** opportunity that ofitered to pro- 
 ceed down the Patapsco River, and Chesapeake Bay, to 
 visit Annapolis the capital of Maryland. The view of 
 Baltimore from the river is very picturesque, and the trip 
 down the Bay is most pleasant. Whilst at Annapolis, 
 I visited the Senate Chamber in the State House, memo- 
 rable for being the room, in which Washington resigned 
 his commission as Commander-in-Chief of the forces, into 
 the hands of Congress ; after the objects of the Revolution 
 had been attained. It contains a fine painting commem- 
 orating this scene ; and Washington's adaiess, and the 
 reply of Congress, are also to be seen. The principal 
 Naval College of the United States is at Annapolis ; the 
 buildings, situated in extensive grounds, seem to be 
 excellently well adapted for the purpose, and the internal 
 arrangements are said to be very good. In addidon ta 
 an ordinary wooden training-ship, there is an iron Monitor 
 in connection with the College ; so that the cadets are 
 practically trained in the management of that class of war 
 vessel. 
 
 Returning to Baltimore, I took train for Washington, 
 the political metropolis of the Republic. Washington 
 is situated on the north bank of the Potomac River, 
 within an area of ten square miles, reserved for the Capital, 
 in the District of Columbia. This P'ederal Dist. ::t of 
 Columbia contains about sixty square miles, — its chief cities 
 being Washington, the capital of the Union, and George- 
 
 m 
 
222 
 
 TRANS-l'ACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 town. The object of making a Federal district, in which 
 to place the capital of the country, was, to i^revent any 
 one State from exercising undue influence, by having the 
 metropolis within its jurisdiction. The old law-makers of 
 the Republic, in its early days, seem to have regarded this 
 point as very essential to the common weal ; and jealously 
 watched that no one State gained an ascendancy over 
 the others, in the Councils of the country. They had 
 also in view the dangers of centralization, and in every 
 case, second-rate towns were made the political capitals 
 of the different States ; so that, at the present time, it is 
 seldom the capital of the State is at the same time its 
 chief city. 
 
 It is a singular anomaly, that Washington, the centre as 
 it were of a purely democratic republic, has neither part 
 nor lot in the authority to which it is subject. It sent 
 no member to Congress, being in this respect less 
 favourably situated than the Territories, which do return 
 delegates to speak, if not to vote. The District of 
 Columbia, in short, has taxation without representation. 
 
 The city of Washington, originally designed by A. 
 EUicott, during the presidency of Washington, who by 
 the way wished it to be called " The Federal City," was 
 laid out on a very grand scale, as it was anticipated that 
 it would become an immense metropolis. This has, 
 however, not proved the case, as the city has no com- 
 mercial importance : it has consequently a ridiculously 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 223 
 
 in which 
 vent any 
 aving the 
 makers of 
 arded this 
 1 jealously 
 lancy over 
 They had 
 i in every 
 al capitals 
 . time, it is 
 lie time its 
 
 le centre as 
 leither part 
 
 It sent 
 espect less 
 1 do return 
 District of 
 sentation. 
 ned by A. 
 )n, who by 
 City," was 
 :ipated that 
 This has, 
 las no com- 
 ridiculously 
 
 straggling appearance, and in it, palaces alternate with 
 buildings that may comparatively be termed shanties. 
 It is built on the rectangular parallelogrammic plan so 
 common in America. The streets are all wide, and 
 shaded by fine trees, and are divided into numbered 
 streets, lettered streets, and avenues : thus, First, Second, 
 and Third streets are crossed at right angles by A, B, 
 and C streets ; whilst the avenues, named after the 
 different States of the Union, form the main arteries of 
 the city. The principal of these is Pennsylvania 
 Avenue, especially that portion which extends from the 
 White House to the Capitol, and in it are situated most 
 of the public buildings ; whilst the best retail establish- 
 ments are in Seventh street. Thr city contains a 
 population of about 110,000 inhabitants; but this 
 number is much increased during the sessions of 
 Congress, when it swarms with political agents, needy 
 office-seekers, and general hangers-on. 
 
 The great feature however, of Washington, is its public 
 buildings, foremost among which, stands the grand 
 Capitol, one of the largest, and of its kind perhaps the 
 finest edifice in the world. It crowns the summit of 
 Capitol Hill, and consists of a main or central building, 
 352 feet long, and 121 feet deep, and two wings each 
 238 feet by 140 feet, covering together 3^ acres of 
 ground. It may be said to be three distinct Grecian 
 temples, each having a rich Corinthian portico, the 
 
 l-!f 
 
•.fe^.n 
 
 
 ij 
 
 I ! 
 
 Ij! f! 
 
 224 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 centre one being surmounted by an immense dome, 
 which altogether dwarfs its noble proportions, and which 
 thougli painted to resemble marble, is constructed 
 of iron. The central building is constructed of light 
 yellow freestone painted white ; the two extensions are 
 of pure white marble, and the general appearance is 
 severely classic, although it has a great fault, inasmuch 
 as it fronts up hill, and its principal facade is turned away 
 from the City. It stands within some thirty acres of 
 grounds, beautifully laid out, and adorned with statuary ; 
 and in front of the building stands (ireenough's colossal 
 statue of Washin2;ton On either side of the entrance 
 are large figures of Peace and War ; and over the door- 
 way is a basso-relievo representing Fame and Peace, in 
 the act of crowning Washington with laurel. The 
 Rotunda is the most striking feature of the interior of 
 the Capitol ; it contains eight large, though they cannot 
 be called fine pictures, illustrating American history, for 
 the/ possess litde artistic merit. They consist of the 
 "Declaration of Independence," "the Surrender of 
 General Burgoyne," " the Surrender of Lord Cornwallis," 
 "Washington resigning his Commission," "the Landing 
 of Columbus," " the Discovery of the Mississippi by De 
 Soto," "the Baptism of Pocahontas," and "the Embarka- 
 tion of the Pilgrim Fathers." There are also alto-relievos 
 representing "Penn's Treaty with the Indians," "the 
 Landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth," " the Conflict of 
 
 :ii^ 
 
 HI i inji i* ii i j c w<)m « w B 
 
 MM 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 225 
 
 ise dome, 
 and which 
 :onstructed 
 d of light 
 nsions are 
 )earance is 
 t, inasmuch 
 urned away 
 ty acres of 
 th statuary ; 
 rh's colossal 
 le entrance 
 er the door- 
 id Peace, in 
 Lurel. The 
 interior of 
 they cannot 
 history, for 
 isist of the 
 ^irrender of 
 ornwallis," 
 he Landing 
 sippi by De 
 e Embarka- 
 lalto-relievos 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 lians. 
 
 t> (( 
 
 the 
 
 Conflict of 
 
 Daniel Boone with the Indians," and "the rescue of 
 Captain John Smith by Pocahontas." Over this rotunda, 
 the dome rises to a height of 250 feet, and is beautifully 
 frescoed with sixty-three figures, so large, that they look 
 life-size when viewed from the floor. The design is the 
 figure of Washington, sitting between the Goddesses of 
 Liberty and Victory ; below are the original thirteen 
 States holding up a banner inscribed with the national 
 motto "£ pluribus ufium,'* and surrounded by six 
 allegorical groups representing War, Agriculture, Me- 
 chanics, Commerce, the Navy, and Science. In the 
 latter group Franklin, Fulton and Walter occupy pro- 
 minent positions. 
 
 The old Hall of Representatives, now used as a 
 National Hall of Statuary, is semi-circular in form ; the 
 entablature being supported upon twenty-four columns, 
 and the ceiling painted in imitation of that of the Par- 
 thenon at Rome. Over one of the entrances, is a fine 
 figure of Liberty ; over the other, a statue representing 
 History in a winged car, the wheel of which forms a 
 clock. The Chamber of Representatives is a magnificent 
 hall, the ceiling being of ironwork, with forty-five stained- 
 glass panels, on which are painted the arms of the 
 States. On either side of the marble desk ■-{ the 
 Speaker are full-length portraits of Washington, and 
 Lafayette. The accommodation for the public is excellent, 
 
 but like the House of Commons at Westminster, the 
 
 16 
 
n I 
 
 i i 
 
 ■h 
 
 U II 
 
 V. 
 
 226 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 acoustic properties are not good. The Speaker's room, 
 immediately behind his desk, is a richly-decorated 
 apartment. 
 
 The Senate Chamber is somewhat smaller than the Hall 
 of Representatives ; it has spacious galleries for visitors, 
 reached by fine marble staircases, which are amongst 
 the most striking of the internal architectural features 
 of the Capitol. Other fine chambers are the President's, 
 and Vice-President's rooms ; the Reception-room, and 
 the Senate Post-Office ; and especially the Marble- 
 room, which is particularly chaste and rich in its deco- 
 rations. 
 
 The Chamber occupied by the Supreme Court is very 
 fine, and contains some beautiful marble Ionic columns. 
 The Judges when presiding wear black gowns, but 
 barristers address the Court in their ordinary dress. The 
 Law Library, in connection with the Court, contains 
 30,000 volumes. The Library of Congress, the largest 
 in America, numbers 300,000 volumes. 
 
 I was fortunate in witnc -sing a sitting of Congress, and 
 must say that although I heard some of the leading 
 Senators and Congressmen speak, I cannot say I was 
 particularly impressed by their eloquence. They do not 
 appear to me to speak in the quiet undemonstrative 
 manner, that carries with it weight and conviction, but 
 have a jerky style, use very strong expressions to describe 
 very ordinary events, and in consequence of the habit 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 2:7 
 
 ^r's room, 
 decorated 
 
 1 the Hall 
 or visitors, 
 ; amongst 
 al features 
 President's, 
 room, and 
 le Marble- 
 n its deco- 
 
 :ourt is very 
 lie columns, 
 gowns, but 
 ress. The 
 .rt, contains 
 the largest 
 
 ongress, and 
 the leading 
 say I was 
 rhey do not 
 emonstrative 
 nviction, but 
 ,s to describe 
 of the habit 
 
 that generally prevails of raising the voice at the end of 
 a sentence, have a sing-song manner that is not pleasant. 
 They seem however to possess a ready flow of words, 
 such as goes by the generic term of " gift of the gab.'* 
 I would say, that a comparison between the British 
 Parliament, and the Congress of the United States, would 
 show that, although the former is pre-eminent in the 
 number of first-class speakers ; the latter would have a 
 better average of general debating power. There seems, 
 however, to be a want of dignity in the deliberations of 
 the two Houses of Congress, that must be very apparent 
 to a stranger. The lobbies just outside the Chambers, in 
 which the two branches of the Legislature are sitting, with 
 open doors, are noisy with the sound of people walking 
 about, speaking in loud and excited tones, and lobbying 
 members as they leave the Chamber. 
 
 The White House, the residence of the President, is 
 built of freestone, and painted white ; and tV igh what 
 would be considered a fine mansion for a private gentle- 
 man, is too unpretentious in my opinion to be the stau- 
 residence of the Head of the Republic. The front is 
 very plain, relieved only by a portico supported on ten 
 Ionic columns. The state-rooms are handsome, but 
 they are not very commodious, and must be inconve- 
 niently crowded when state receptions are held in them. 
 
 The Treasury is a colossal building of white granite, 
 and is the best adapted for the purpose, perhaps, of any 
 
 !i 
 
i'l 
 
 111 
 
 liii 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 228 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 %^ 
 
 \ 
 
 in the world. The east front has an unbroken Ionic 
 colonnade 342 feet in length, modelled after that of the 
 Temple of Minerva, at Athens. Extensive additions to 
 the building have been made in harmony with the gene- 
 ral design, and it is altogether 582 feet long and 300 feet 
 wide, and cost six millions of dollars ; the interior is 
 ornamented with combinations of different kinds of 
 marble, and is very chaste in appearance. 
 
 The Patent Office, which also contains the Depart- 
 ment of the Interior, is undoubtedly the finest of all the 
 public buildings in Washington. It is built of marble, 
 in severe and massive Doric style, with a grand portico 
 on each of its four facades ; that on F street is reached 
 by a broad flight of steps, and consists of sixteen Doric 
 columns of immense size, supporting a classic pediment. 
 The model-room consists of four large halls, with a 
 united length of nearly a quarter of a mile, and is filled 
 with cases containing about 1 20,000 models, representing 
 inventions in every branch of mechanical art, for which 
 l>atents have been granted. A large hall in this building 
 contains a collection of revolutionary relics, amongst 
 which are Benjamin Franklin's printing-press, and many 
 personal souvenirs of Washington. 
 
 The enormous building for the State, War, and Navy 
 Departments is now nearly completed, the State Depart- 
 ment having already moved in. It is built of granite, 
 and exceeds in size even the great Treasury building, 
 
 ■aR***** 
 
^i\ 
 
 WASHINGTON. 
 
 229 
 
 '■' ?il 
 
 being 567 feet long, 342 feet wide, four storeys high, 
 with lofty mansard roof 
 
 The General Post Office is an imposing edifice of 
 white marble, in the modern Corinthian style, and in 
 general harmony with the other public buildings. It 
 seems strange, however, that such a large building 
 should be requisite for a city without any commercial 
 importance, even though it be the metropolis. 
 
 The Department of Agriculture is a handsome brick 
 building in the Renaissance style, three storeys high 
 with a mansard roof, and contains a library, a museum 
 of agriculture, a herbarium with 25,000 varieties of 
 plants, and an entomological museum. The flower 
 garden in front of the main building is a fine sight when 
 in bloom. Connected with this Department are also an 
 arboretum, experimental gardens and plant houses. 
 
 Washington possesses fine equestrian statues of 
 Generals Washington, Scott and Jackson ; and in 
 addition to these, there has been for several years in 
 course of construction, a National Memorial to Washing- 
 ton, which in its less than half finished state, is an 
 ugly object at best, and spoils many otherwise pietty 
 views. It is intended to represent an Egyptian obelisk, 
 but as it is being built of small stones will never be 
 handsome, if it ever be completed. Of this however, 
 there seems much doubt, as there is a difficulty in 
 collecting the requisite funds ; and it is now suggested to 
 
m^ 
 
 m: 
 
 ill 
 
 
 
 230 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 demolish the portion already erected, and with the 
 material to construct an Arc de Triomphe. This would 
 certainly be advisable in the interests of good taste, but 
 woi Id be a humiliating end to the National Memorial to 
 the national hero. 
 
 The Smithsonian Institute is a beautiful building of 
 red sandstone in the Norman style, with many pretty 
 towers. It was founded by James Smithson, an English- 
 man, in 1786, who bequeathed his large fortune for the 
 purpose of erecting a building at Washington to be 
 called the Smithsonian Institute, for " the increase and 
 diffusion of knowledge amongst men." Regarding this 
 bequest as a benefit for mankind in general, Congress 
 passed an act for the erection of a suitable building, to 
 contain a library, museum, art gallery, and a lecture 
 hall ; leaving it discretionary with the trustees, to use 
 the remainder of the funds in any manner, that would 
 carry out the wishes of the founder. The Institute now 
 contains a fine museum of natural history, arranged in a 
 series of halls, and fine ethnological, mineralogical, and 
 metallurgical collections. It is situated in very fine and 
 extensive grounds ; and a world-wide reputation has been 
 earned by its Transactions, which are annually published, 
 and distributed amongst kindred institutions, and which 
 have proved of great benefit to the scientific world, and 
 consequently to mankind generally, as was originally 
 intended by the beneficent founder. 
 
 '1 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 231 
 
 1 ;>i 
 
 Lth the 
 is would 
 iste, but 
 norial to 
 
 ilding of 
 ly pretty 
 . English - 
 le for the 
 m to be 
 rease and 
 irding this 
 , Congress 
 uilding, to 
 a lecture 
 .5, to use 
 that would 
 aitute now 
 anged in a 
 )gical, and 
 ry fine and 
 [n has been 
 published, 
 and which 
 world, and 
 originally 
 
 The Corcoran Gallery of Art is a large building of 
 brick and brown stone, in the Renaissance style, and 
 contains some fine paintings and statuary, and collections 
 of bric-a-brac and majolica-ware. Amongst the statuary, 
 Powers* "Greek Slave" is a prominent object. 
 
 Howard University is a noble institution, foundea for 
 the education of youth without regard to sex or colour ; 
 it occupies a large brick building, painted white, sur- 
 mounted by a fine tower, and gives instruction at present 
 to 700 students, all negroes. 
 
 ' '1 
 
 
 m 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 CINCIxNNATI, LOUISVILLE, AND ST. LOUIS. 
 
 Journey from Baltimore— Scenery — Harper's Ferry— Journey 
 Resumed — Arrival at Cincinnati — Its Position— General 
 Appearance — Tyler — Davidson Fountain — Public Edifices— 
 Eden Park — Spring-grove Cemetery — Trip down the Ohio — 
 Description of Louisville — Commerce — Unrivalled Position of 
 St. Louis — Its Progress — Appearance— Strests and Buildings 
 — Mississippi Bridge — Characteristics of "Western Men. 
 
 Returning to Baltimore, I soon found myself ensconced 
 in a comfortable carriage of the Baltimore and Ohio 
 Railway Company, en route for Cincinnati. This is a 
 journey of close upon 600 miles, and occupies twenty-four 
 hours. The road passes through beautiful scenery, and 
 many places in its vicinity have been the scene of exciting 
 events during the Civil War ; so that instead of being 
 monotonous, this journey is a most pleasurable one. 
 After leaving the city, we crossed the Carrollton Viaduct, 
 a splendid granite bridge spanning Gwinn's Falls ; and 
 soon entered the " Deep Cut," a cutting seventy-six feet 
 deep, and nearly half a mile long, which formed one of 
 the greatest difficulties in the construction of the road. 
 The route continued interesting until Washington Junc- 
 tion was reached, where the train entered the gorge, 
 through which the Patapsco river flows. On entering 
 
HARPERS FERRY. 
 
 233 
 
 this defile, we obtained a fine view of the Thomas 
 Viaduct, a fine granite bridge nearly 700 feet long, 
 resting on eight elliptic arches and crossing the river 
 at a height of sixty feet above the water-level. We soon 
 arrived at a little place called Ellicott's Mills, situated in 
 a rocky gorge, through which the Patapsco tumbles in a 
 most excited manner. After leaving tiiis picturesque 
 village, we passed many striking bits of scenery, and 
 after twice crossing the river on fine viaducts, we arrived 
 at Frederick Junction. This place had been the theatre 
 of a most sanguinary struggle between Federal and 
 Confederate soldiers, which resulted in the defeat of the 
 former. The road now passed over a fine open country 
 extending to the Catoctin Mountains, a continuation of 
 the Blue Ridge range ; and we obtained a fine view of 
 one of the most noted features on this route, called Point 
 of Rocks. This is a lofty promontory formed by the 
 Catoctin Mountains, round the base of which, the 
 Potomac flows, and which completely blocks up the 
 pass ; but a long tunnel cut through the solid rock 
 enabled us to pass this impediment to our further 
 progress. For nearly three miles before reaching 
 Harper's Ferry, the track ran through a romantic defile 
 in the mountains, the rocky side of which rises to a 
 great height, looking like a great wall of stone. Harper's 
 Ferry is most beautifully situated at the base of a high 
 hill, at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac 
 
 I' I 
 
 "ir 
 
 ' . . I 
 
234 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 m 
 
 w 
 
 "i 
 
 ^1 
 
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 - 
 
 
 5 
 
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 1 'i 
 
 
 rivers. The scenery in the neighbourhood is grand ; 
 the united waters of the two rivers flowing between 
 the Maryland Heights on the one side, and the 
 Boh'var Heights on the other; and I was very 
 much tempted to break the journey here, and spend 
 a day or two amidst this picturesque scenery. At 
 Harper's Ferry, we crossed the Potomac on a fine iron 
 bridge, and proceeded through the ravine of Klk Branch, 
 imtil we entered upon a fine open undulating country, 
 which extended to the town of Martinsburg. The route 
 here became uninteresting, until the Potomac was again 
 reached, at a point opposite the ruins of Fort Frederick, 
 after passing which, the road swept round the base of a 
 mountain, past a remarkable insulated hill called " Round 
 Top." Here we commenced the ascent of the mountains, 
 during which we obtained many fine views of the 
 surrounding country, and passing through the celebrated 
 Doe dully tunnel 1,200 feet in length, and Paw-Paw 
 tunnel, we continued our way for some distance through 
 rugged and imposing scenery ; and after again crossing 
 the Potomac we reached the town of Cumberland. This 
 town lies in an amphitheatre sarrounded by the 
 mountains, and the approach to it is most striking ; it is 
 in point of population and commerce the second town 
 in importance, in the State of Maryland. The scenery 
 after leaving Cumberland continued very picturesque, 
 and at the place where the Potomac was crossed, and 
 
EN ROUTE FOR CINCINNATI. 
 
 235 
 
 the train passed from Maryland into Virginia, the views 
 up and down the river were very fine. We soon 
 commenced the ascent of the Alleghany mountains, and 
 in a short time reached Altamont, situated on the 
 extreme summit of the Range. Leaving Altamont, we 
 passed through beautiful natural meadows, locally called 
 "glades," watered by numerous streams ; and commenced 
 to descend the mountains through big excavations and 
 tunnels, until we reached the valley of the Cheat river, 
 passing which, we again descended through Kingwood 
 tunnel, which is 4,000 feet long, and at Grafton left the 
 mountains behind us. From Grafton the country was 
 well-wooded, but uninteresting, until we arrived at 
 Parkersville, where we crossed the river Ohio, on a grand 
 bridge considerably over a mile in length, which spans 
 the river upon six arches, the approaches to it resting 
 upon no less than forty-three arches. We soon reached 
 Athens, a pretty little town on the Hocking River. 
 Athens contains the Ohio University, the oldest seat of 
 learning in the State. The next place of importance 
 was Chillicothe, a town situated on a fine plain, 
 through which the Scioto River runs ; and which, at 
 one time, was the capital of the State of Ohio, and 
 is still a thriving, and very pretty town. Thence to 
 Cincinnati, there was nothing noteworthy on the route, 
 though the country we passed through, seemed weli 
 cultivated. 
 
 i;^/i 
 

 
 
 :# 
 
 .» 
 
 236 
 
 TRAN.s PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 Cincinnati, founded in 1788, and consequendy a litde 
 under a century old, is certainly the most pictures(iue of 
 the great cities of America ; it is situated on the Ohio 
 River, at this point about twice as broad as the Thames 
 at Hungerford Bridge ; its waters, yellow as those of the 
 Tiber, here separating the State of Ohio from the 
 adjoining one of Kentucky. On the Kentucky side of 
 the river opposite Cincinnati, and connected with it by a 
 magnificent iron suspension bridge 2,250 feet in length, 
 the span between the towers being over 1,000 feet, are 
 the cities of Covington and Newport. The view from 
 the surrounding hills, of the three cities and ^he winding 
 river, is very fine. Cincinnati is built on two terraces, 
 rising one above the other, at a good elevation above the 
 river; and being entirely surrounded by hills on three 
 sides, thus lies in an amphitheatre ; and this position gives 
 it a picturesque variety of scenery, the want of which is 
 so apparent in the majority of the large American cities. 
 It is regularly laid out, the streets being broad, well paved, 
 and crossing one another at right angles ; although they 
 are not as clean as they might be. This, by the way, is 
 a failing common to all the cities of the Western States. 
 
 The business portion of Cincinnati is compactly built, 
 the buildings being for the most part of a dark freestone, 
 which gives them a substantial appearance ; the private 
 residences are situated on the upper terrace, and on the 
 hills in rear of the city. 
 
CINCINNATI. 
 
 237 
 
 tly a little 
 iresque of 
 the Ohio 
 e Thames 
 )se of the 
 from the 
 ley side of 
 ith it by a 
 in length, 
 3 feet, are 
 view from 
 le winding 
 o terraces, 
 above the 
 3 on three 
 sition gives 
 )f which is 
 can cities, 
 veil paved, 
 ough they 
 he way, is 
 n States, 
 ictly built, 
 freestone, 
 le private 
 nd on the 
 
 Fourth street is the fashionable promenade, and 
 contains the finest shops. In Pearl street are the prin- 
 cipal wholesale warehouses ; and these being generally 
 uniform high stone buildings, have a very imposing 
 appearance. Third street contains the banks and 
 insurance offices. There are, besides, many fine streets 
 with beautiful private residences. 
 
 A prominent feature in the city, is the beautiful Tyler- 
 Davidson Fountain, erected at a cost, it is said, of 
 ;^40,ooo, by Mr. Davidson, and by him presented to 
 the citizens. It is of bronze, of excjuisite workmanship ^ 
 but it was cast in Munich, and though creditable alike in 
 design and execution, it certainly cannot be regarded as 
 a specimen of American art. 
 
 The population of Cincinnati now approaches a 
 quarter of a million of inhabitants, a third of which are 
 either German or of (lerman parentage, and occupy a 
 portion of the city north of the Miami Canal, or the 
 Rhine as they have re-named it. Crossing this canal, one 
 finds oneself in seemingly quite a different country ; no 
 other language but Cierman being heard, and the general 
 appearance of the houses, and more especially of the 
 numerous beer gardens, reminding one forcibly of the 
 Fatherland. 
 
 The Government buildings do not call for special 
 mention ; the County Court House being the only one 
 with any pretensions to architectural design, but there 
 
#*^ 
 
 238 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 IP 
 
 ijit ■ 
 
 :f 
 
 J 
 
 are several very excellent charitable institutions, amongst 
 which the Cincinnati Hospital and the Longvievv Asylum 
 for the Insane are prominent. The city too is particularly 
 well provided with first-class educational establishments, 
 many of them of a very high order. 
 
 The principal church edifice in the city, is the Roman 
 Catholic Cathedral of St. Peter, a fine building in pure 
 Grecian style with a high spire, n.nd a portico supported 
 upon ten columns. The altar-piece " St. Peter DeHvered," 
 by Murillo, is one of the finest paintings in America. 
 The Episcopal Churches are plain and unpretentious ; 
 but the First Presbyterian is a fine building, with a huge 
 tower surmounted by a spire 270 feet high, terminating 
 in a gilded hand, the finger pointing upwards. The 
 Hebrew Synagogue is a profusely ornamented edifice in 
 the Moresque style, with the most beautifully decoiated 
 interior in the city. The Hebrew Temple is a Gothic 
 edifice with double spires, and its interior is very beauti- 
 fully frescoed. 
 
 Eden Park is a fine piece of ground, containing 216 
 acres ; it is situated on a breezy hill, which commands 
 fine views of the city and surrounding country ; is well 
 laid out, and contains the two reservoirs that supply the 
 city with water, and which very much resemble natural 
 lakes. Burnett Woods is a fine tract of forest-land, 170 
 acres in extent, situated at a short distance from the city, 
 and forms a pleasantly-shaded recreation ground, much 
 
CINCINNATI. 
 
 239 
 
 resorted to by the citizens of Cincinnati in the hot weather. 
 There are also numerous small parks or " greens " scat- 
 tered about the city, which are a great boon to the 
 inhabitants, and in addition to beautifying the town, must 
 exert a beneficial effect on the general health. 
 
 One of the lions of Cincinnati, is Spring-grove Ceme- 
 tery, distant about three mile:: from the city. This is 
 approached by a fine avenue, ai.d consists of some 600 
 acres, well wooded, and very picturesque. The entrance 
 is very beautiful, being in the Norman-Gothic style, and 
 the Cemetery contains a fine bronze statue of a soldier, 
 cast in Munich, and erected in honour of the Ohio 
 volunteers, who fell in the Civil War. 
 
 Cincinnati is the seat of many important industries ; 
 the manufactures of the city are valued at ^30,000,000 
 per annum, and cc^.sist principally of iron, boots and 
 shoes, machinery, steamboats, furniture, beer and whisky. 
 Pork-packing, however, is the great industry ; and in tMs 
 branch it ranks directly after Chicago. 
 
 From Cincinnati I proceeded down the Ohio to 
 Louisville. The view from the steamer on starting was 
 very fine ; on the one side the city rose, terrace above 
 terrace, towards the hill-tops, which, covered with villa 
 residences, and vineyards, formed a beautiful semi-circular 
 background ; whilst on the other side lay the twin cities 
 of Covington and Newport, nestling at the foot of the 
 Kentucky Hills. The river scenery is uninteresting; 
 

 'Jg -OgJ ^"^'-"-.*'-' "****" "■ 
 
 240 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 'A\ 
 
 'I > 
 
 ht 
 
 ,ii 111 
 
 towns being at great distances apart, and separated by 
 large tracts of virgin woodland, or plains, which have a 
 great sameness, and tend to make the trip monotonous. 
 The land on the upper Ohio, above Cincinnati, is said to 
 be under cultivation, and to be of a more diversified 
 character, with pretty homely scenery. Below Cincinnati, 
 the river, which had hitherto formed the boundary 
 between the States of Ohio, and Kentucky, makes a 
 sudden bend, and becomes the dividing line between the 
 States of Indiana and Kentucky. 
 
 Lawrenceburg and Aurora passed by the steamer are 
 flourishing little towns in Indiana, and have a rather 
 considerable shipping trade. Big-Bone Lick on the 
 Kentucky side, is so called from a quantity of mastodon 
 bones having here been found. Carrollton stands at the 
 junction with the Ohio of the Kentucky river, which is 
 navigable for about 200 miles, and possesses very pic- 
 turesque scenery. Madison one of the principal cities in 
 Indiana presents a very imposing appearance from the 
 river ; it is well built and is a place of importance, having 
 a large commerce. Approaching Louisville the view 
 becomes very fine ; the river, here about a mile wide, is 
 crossed by an immense bridge, which connects the 
 Northern and Southern railway systems ; whilst the view 
 of Louisville on the one side, and of Jeffersonville on the 
 Other, is really imposing. 
 
 Louisville, the chief city of Kentucky, is situated on a 
 
,*»^ 
 
 LOUISVILLE. 
 
 241 
 
 arated by 
 ch have a 
 notonous. 
 is said to 
 iiversified 
 Cincinnati, 
 boundary 
 , makes a 
 jtween the 
 
 teamer are 
 e a rather 
 ck on the 
 f mastodon 
 a,nds at the 
 r, which is 
 ; very pic- 
 al cities in 
 from the 
 ice, having 
 the view 
 |ile wide, is 
 inects the 
 1st the view 
 ville on the 
 
 luated on a 
 
 plain surrounded by hills, on the Ohio, near the junction 
 with that river of the Bear-Grass creek. Opposite the 
 city are the falls of the Ohio, which are very picturesque, 
 being a succession of small cataracts, extending right 
 across the river, but which disappear when the water is 
 high. To prevent the navigation of the Ohio from being 
 impeded when its waters are low a canal has been 
 constructed round the falls, at great cost, to a place called 
 Shippingport. 
 
 The city covers an area of thirteen square miles, with 
 a frontage to the river of three miles, and is laid out with 
 great regularity; the streets being straight, wide, well- 
 paved, and shaded by fine trees, but like those of 
 Cincinnati they might with advantage be kept cleaner. 
 The first settlement on the present site of Louisville was 
 made in 1778, and the town was estabHshed in 1780, and 
 named after Louis XVL, King of France, who was then 
 assisting the States in their struggle for independence. 
 It now contains over 100,000 inhabitants. 
 
 The public buildings of Louisville are plain and 
 substantial ; but have no claim to beauty of design. 
 The charitable institutions are numerous in proportion to 
 the population, and the educational establishments and 
 libraries are many and excellent ; the new coloured 
 Normal school for the instruction of negroes being one 
 of the finest schools of the kind in the country. 
 
 The private residences in the city have generally nice 
 
 17 
 
 
^ l£i 
 
 -—i.-^.-sr.rintirifv'--^ aan-i* 
 
 242 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 f § i> 
 
 lawns and gardens in front, and in this respect form a 
 pleasing contrast to those in the other large towns, where 
 the absence of private gardens is very noticeable. 
 
 On the Indiana side of the river, opposite Louisville, is 
 the town of Jeffersonville, reached by an iron bridge here 
 erected over the Ohio. This bridge or viaduct, the pride of 
 Louisville, is a mile in length, supported upon twenty-four 
 piers, and cost ;j^4oo,ooo ; but unlike the beautiful bridges 
 at Cincinnati and St. Louis, it is not pleasing to the eye. 
 
 The commerce of Louisville is very considerable, it being 
 one of the largest leaf-tobacco markets in the country, 
 and also a great emporium for provisions and live stock. 
 Pork-packing and ham-curing are large industries, and 
 it is the distributing market for the wretched Kentucky 
 whiskies, the consumption of which is enormous. It is 
 also the centre of several important manufactures, the 
 principal being leather, cement, furniture, and agricultural 
 implements. The casting of iron, water and gas pipes is 
 also a large industry. The total annual value of the trade 
 of the city is estimated at ;^5o,ooo,ooo. 
 
 After spending a couple of days very profitably at 
 Louisville, I took the cars of the Ohio and Mississippi 
 Railway, and after a rather uninteresting journey arrived 
 at St. Louis. 
 
 St. Louis, the metropolis of the West, and the chief 
 city of the State of Missouri, is situated on the Mississippi 
 River, about twenty miles below its confluence with the 
 
ST. LOUIS. 
 
 243 
 
 ; form a 
 ts, where 
 
 lisville, is 
 idge here 
 e pride of 
 ^enty-four 
 ul bridges 
 the eye. 
 le, it being 
 2 country, 
 iive stock, 
 itries, and 
 Kentucky 
 )us. It is 
 :tures, the 
 Lgricultural 
 ;as pipes is 
 »f the trade 
 
 ofitably at 
 iMississippi 
 ley arrived 
 
 the chief 
 
 IMississippi 
 
 ce with the 
 
 Missouri, and 170 miles above its junction with the 
 Ohio. Its position is unrivalled ; situated on a river, 
 that, with its tributaries commands half the traftic of the 
 whole country ; in close proximity to enormous tracts of 
 the best agricultural land, and to almost boundless 
 forests of fine timber ; with inexhaustible resources in its 
 coal and iron deposits ; there would appear to be no 
 limit to the future greatness of this city. Its progress 
 hitherto has been so rapid, equalled only by that of its 
 great rival Chicago, that it seems destined in time to 
 become, the greatest of American cities. 
 
 The first settlement made on the present site of St. 
 Louis, was in 1764, by Pierre Laclede and others, who, 
 under the title of the Louisiana Fur Company, received 
 from the Governor of Louisiana, then a French colony, a 
 grant of land, and permission to establish trading-posts 
 on the Mississippi ; and here the principal post called 
 St. Louis was settled. In 1813, when Louisiana was 
 ceded to the United States, that portion of it situated 
 above the 33rd degree of latitude, was erected into the 
 Missouri Territory, and eventually received as a State 
 into the Union. The growth of the city has been 
 marvellous; in 181 1 the population amounted to 1,400 
 souls, and it is now supposed to contain nearly half a 
 million of inhabitants. 
 
 St. Louis is built on three terraces, rising one above 
 the other from the water's edge, and is, in spite of its 
 
 U 
 
Mf 
 
 m 
 
 
 ''III. 
 
 1 
 
 11- 
 
 m 
 
 244 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 smoke, and dust, one of the finest cities in America. It 
 extends along the river for a distance of eleven miles, 
 and covers an area of 21 square miles; the business 
 portion being densely built, and the whole river-front 
 embanked, and forming a Levee, as wharves are called 
 in America. Built for the most part of stone, the city 
 has a very substantial appearance, and is laid out with 
 great regularity, the streets near the river running parallel 
 with it and further back, being at right angles to those that 
 cross them. The streets running north and south, or 
 parallel with the river, are numbered First, Second, Third, 
 etc. ; those extending from east to west have mostly pomo- 
 logical names ; and the houses, being all numbered on the 
 Philadelphia plan, it is easy to calculate one's distance from 
 Market street, the centre of the city, or from the Levee. 
 
 Front street extending the whole length of the Levee, 
 contains fine blocks of warehouses, and together with First 
 and Second streets, is the centre of the wholesale trade of 
 the city. Fourth street is the principal promenade, and 
 in it are the finest shops ; whilst the private residences are 
 in the avenues, and in Pine, Olive, and Locust streets. 
 
 St. Louis possesses some fine public buildings. The 
 Court House is built of limestone in form of a Greek 
 cross, with fine Doric porticoes, and surmounted by 
 a large cupola, from the top of which a grand view 
 of the city, river, and surrounding country is obtained. 
 The Four Courts building, in which, as its name 
 
 ti \ 
 
ST. LOUIS. 
 
 245 
 
 ca. It 
 1 miles, 
 business 
 ver-front 
 •e called 
 the city 
 out with 
 g parallel 
 ;hose that 
 south, or 
 id. Third, 
 ;tly pomo- 
 red on the 
 tance from 
 e Levee. 
 ;he Levee, 
 with First 
 ,le trade of 
 :nade, and 
 [dences are 
 streets, 
 ings. The 
 ,f a Greek 
 •unted by 
 Irand view 
 obtained, 
 its name 
 
 implies, the different Courts are held, is a beautiful 
 freestone edifice, very ornate, having in its rear a jail, 
 constructed of iron, semi-circular in form, so arranged, 
 that all the cells can be overlooked at the same time 
 by a single warder. A new building is in course of 
 erection, to be occupied as a Post Office and Custom 
 House, and will, when completed be very fine, and a 
 great improvement on the present inconvenient building ; 
 as will also the new Exchange now being built. Other fine 
 edifices are the Masonic Temple, the City Hall, the St. 
 Louis Life Insurance building, and the Republican 
 Newspaper building. 
 
 Some of the church edifices are very fine specimens of 
 ecclesiastical architecture, notably Christ Church (Epis- 
 copal), which is built in Gothic Cathedral form, and 
 contains a handsome nave, adorned with stained glass 
 windows. The Catholic Cathedral has a fagade of 
 polished freestone, with a Doric portico, and lofty tipire, 
 with a fine chime of bells. The First Presbyterian is a 
 fine Gothic edifice, with a particularly graceful spire, and 
 the Jewish Temple is one of the finest places of worship 
 in the city. 
 
 The public-school system of St. Louis is excellent ; the 
 numerous school buildings are commodious, well-venti- 
 lated, and many of them really handsome in appearance. 
 The Washington University is the seat of the higher edu- 
 cation of the city, and connected with it, are the Mary 
 
 ■1 
 I 
 
 \'i 
 
^ 
 
 ■ II J l U lii I ' 
 
 il 
 
 246 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 Til 
 
 m 
 
 in I 
 
 
 i 
 
 I;'.' M' 
 
 Pll 
 
 Oi. 
 
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 .l^lli 
 
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 b 
 
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 1 
 
 :t 
 
 Institute for the instruction of females, the Polytechnic 
 School, and the St. Louis Law School. The students 
 number 700, and there are 60 teachers connected with 
 the different departments. The St. Louis University, a 
 Jesuit institution, is the oldest seat of learning in the 
 city; it has a valuable museum, and a library of 17,000 
 volumes, containing some rare specimens of early printing. 
 There are several good public libraries, the principal of 
 which, called the Mercantile Library, contains a fine 
 reading-room, with 45,000 volumes, and all the periodicals 
 and magazines of the day, and collections of paintings, 
 coins, and statuary. 
 
 The pride of St. Louis, however, is the noble bridge 
 over the Mississippi, which at this point is rather narrow, 
 and the current consequently very rapid. This bridge, 
 justly regarded as one of the greatest feats of American 
 engineering, is constructed in three cast-steel spans, (two 
 of which are each 500 feet wide, the centre one being 520 
 feet), supported upon four granite piers, sunk over 100 feet 
 through the sandy bed of the river, until they rest upon 
 the solid rock. These spans or arches are sixty feet 
 above the water-level, and therefore do not impede the 
 navigation of the river ; and the bridge itself consists of 
 two roadways, an upper one for carriages and pedestrians, 
 and a lower one for railway trains. The lower roadway 
 enters a tunnel from the bridge, nearly 5,000 feet in 
 length, which extends under a great portion of the city. 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 j 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
ST. LOUIS. 
 
 247 
 
 ytecbnic 
 students 
 ted with 
 ersity, a 
 ig in the 
 o( 17,00a 
 ' printing, 
 incipal of 
 as a fine 
 )eriodicals 
 paintings, 
 
 ble bridge 
 er narrow, 
 his bridge, 
 American 
 ;pans, (two 
 being 52a 
 er 100 feet 
 
 rest upon 
 
 sixty feet 
 Impede the 
 
 consists of 
 tedestrians, 
 
 ;r roadway 
 ,00 feet in 
 
 >f the city. 
 
 The cost of construction of bridge and tunnel was 
 
 ;^2, 000,000. 
 
 There are several very fine parks in St. Louis ; 
 Lafayette Park, the principal, is a fine piece of ground 
 only thirty acres in extent, but bein^ so well laid out, 
 and intended for pedestrians only, it seems of much 
 greater extent than it really is. Tower Grove Park, and 
 Shaw's Garden, are also pleasant recreation grounds. 
 
 Bellefontaine Cemetery, the most beautiful in the 
 Western States, embraces 350 acres, and is tastefully laid 
 out, with beautiful trees and shrubberies, and contains 
 many fine monuments. 
 
 As a manufacturing city, St. Louis ranks directly after 
 New York and Philadelphia ; its manufactured products 
 amounting to an estimated annual value of ;^4o,ooo,ooo. 
 As the natural enf repot o( the whole valley of the Mississippi, 
 however, it is the centre of the immense grain, live stock, 
 and provision trades; and is the great distributing 
 market for the cotton, lead, tobacco, wool, and hides, 
 producW in that great district. It is also the greatest 
 flour market in the country, and a great seat of the 
 pork-packing industry. 
 
 Before proceeding South, I may say that Western 
 Americans gave me the impression of being more active 
 and energetic than their fellow-countrymen in the Northern 
 and Eastern States ; of being more broad-minded, less 
 inflci.^;ed with their own importance, more observant of 
 
 »lf. 
 
 t ti 
 
r. 
 
 248 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 •M 
 
 ;'l? 
 
 I 
 
 passing events, and tolerant of difference of opinion. They 
 do not appear to have the formality and self-conceit of 
 the Yankee, nor the lassitude of the Southerner ; and 
 whilst attentive to their own affliirs, yet seem very observant 
 of those of the Northern, Eastern, and Southern States, 
 and also to take an interest in foreign politics. They are 
 certainly more national in their ideas than the New Eng- 
 lander, who thinks his own State alone worthy of notice ; 
 than the Eastern men, who think their ideas should alone 
 dominate the country ; and than the Southerners, whose 
 attention seems to be solely devoted to recovering the 
 position they occupied before the civil war. 
 
 It is in consequence of these chc. icteristics of Western 
 men, that careful observers conclude, that St. Louis will 
 become the metropolis of the whole country ; or that 
 the Western States will in time be erected into an 
 independent nation, with St. Louis as the capital. This 
 latter seems the more probable, as the Western States 
 already contain a population of eleven and a half 
 millions ; and when the land is all opened up and settled, 
 their interests will undoubtedly be better served, by 
 having a central government of their own at St. Louis, 
 than by the existing one at Washington, which has to 
 legislate for so many conflicting interests. 
 
a. They 
 jnceit of 
 ler ; and 
 )bservant 
 n States, 
 They are 
 slew Eng- 
 Df notice ; 
 )uld alone 
 rs, whose 
 Bering the 
 
 if Western 
 Louis will 
 ' ; or that 
 into an 
 tal. This 
 em States 
 nd a half 
 nd settled, 
 lerved, by 
 St. Louis, 
 ich has to 
 
 CHAPTER XVIL 
 
 DOWN THE MISSISSIITI TO NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 The Mississippi River — The " Great Republic^' — Cairo — Columbus 
 — Hickman — Memphis — Helena — Napoleon — Vicksburg — 
 Natchez — Baton Rouge— River Scenery — New Orleans — 
 Position — History — Streets and Sfpiares — Public Buildings — 
 Churches — Public School System — French Market — Cemeteries 
 — Levee — Commerce. 
 
 Having decided to proceed to New Orleans by steamer 
 down the Mississippi, I took my passage by the Great 
 Republic^ which was advertised to sail on the following 
 day. 
 
 Before describing the trip, a few words about the river 
 itself may not be out of place. The Mississippi, which 
 means "the Great River," literally "the Father of 
 Waters," rises in the highlands of Minnesota, in a cluster 
 of small lakes, near the sources of the Red River of the 
 North and the rivers that flow into Lake Superior. Its 
 sources are i,68o feet above the Gulf of Mexico, into 
 which it enters. Its general course is southerly with 
 numerous windings and it has a length of 2,986 miles to 
 its mouth, from which to the source of the Missouri is 
 4,506 miles. The Mississippi and its tributaries drain 
 an area of 1,226,600 square miles. It is navigable to 
 the Falls of the St. Anthony a distance of 2,200 miles, or. 
 
ttni'f^'Tr;- 
 
 250 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 reckoning the Missouri with it, boats can proceed from 
 its mouth a distance of 3,500 miles. It has 1,500 navig- 
 able tributaries, the principal of which are the Red River, 
 340 miles long from its mouth ; the Yazoo 534 miles; the 
 Arkansas 700 miles ; the Ohio 1,053 miles ; and the 
 Missouri 1,253 niiles. The Mississii)pi averages for its 
 whole course a width of 3,000 feet, and is from 75 to 120 
 feet deep. There is no apparent increase from the largest 
 branches, and it is estimated that 40 per cent, of the flood 
 waters are lost in the great marshes. Thousands of acres 
 of land on the banks, are annually carried away by the 
 current. The Mississippi forms a portion of the boundaries 
 often States, having the southern part of Minnesota, Iowa, 
 Missouri, Arkansas, and most of Louisiana on the west 
 bank ; and Wisconsin, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee and 
 Mississippi on the east. The chief towns situated on 
 its banks are New Orleans, Natchez, Vicksburg, Memphis, 
 St. Louis, Quincy, Keokuk, Galena and St. Paul. 
 
 And now a few words about the Great Republic 
 which is the largest of the immense three-decked Mis- 
 sissippi boats. The saloon of the Great Republic^ which 
 is 260 feet long, is painted white and gold picked out 
 with blue and is remarkably pretty. It has a double row 
 of pillars with fretted arches forming three aisles, of which 
 the side ones abut on the state-rooms. Round the saloon 
 are covered galleries ; above is a tier of small apartments 
 in which the officers and employe's of the boat sleep, 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 251 
 
 and above that, in the centre, the tower from which the 
 vessel is steered. Over the paddle-boxes are a bar-room 
 and a barber's-shop. The lower part of the vessel 
 resembles a series of immense barns : here are the 
 enormous engines, furnaces, and stores of coal and wood, 
 piles of cargo, horses, mules, and other animals. In one 
 corner is a carpenter's shop ; in another a blacksmith's 
 forge. On deck towards the bows, is hung a fine deep- 
 toned bell, which would put to shame many of the church 
 bells one hears. Meals are served in the saloon at tables 
 that accommodate about ten persons each. 
 
 Having noticed these various features of what is destined 
 for some few days, to be my home, I proceed on deck to 
 have a look at the country through which we are passing. 
 The scenery is rather pretty ; low wooded hills from time 
 to time approach the river on either side, and there are 
 frequent signs of cultivation and habitation. At times 
 there are pretty limestone bluffs, hollowed out in places 
 into caves and arches, evidently by the action of the water 
 at some remote epoch, when its bed was at a far higher 
 level than it is at present. For thirty miles below St. 
 Louis, the Iron-Mountain Railway runs along the river 
 bank. The ore at this place is very rich, and almost 
 pure. 
 
 We soon approached the city of Cairo, which is 
 situated on the Ohio, just above its junction with the 
 Mississippi. Cairo is built on a bank of slimy mud. 
 
s^ 
 
 
 252 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKFTCHES. 
 
 h 
 
 '•fr 
 
 As the steamer approached the desolate embankment, 
 which seemed the only barrier between the low land on 
 which the town is built and the waters of the great river 
 rising above it, it certainly was difficult to imagine that 
 sane men, even though they be specula <"':^""s, could have 
 fixed upon such a spot, on which to place the site of a 
 city — an emporium of trade and commerce. The town 
 itself is a collection of brick houses and voodtn shanties, 
 and the streets are rendered almost imp^jsable by mud. 
 A more desolate-looking place cannot be conceived. 
 Surely Dickens must havc had Cairo in mind, when he 
 described the flourishing town of Eden. 
 
 An nour and a half's journey from Cairo brought us to 
 Columbus, which is situated on an elevated spur of land 
 projecting into the water. The river here is very wide, in fact 
 it did not appear to me to be wider at Vicksburg or Baton 
 Rouge, which pre not far from its mouth. On the hills 
 behind Columbus may still be seen the dismantled ruins 
 of strong earth-works, thrown up during the civil war to 
 protect the town. A large island here impedes the 
 stream, which runs swiftly under the bluffs, large portions 
 of which become undermined and fall into the river. 
 
 A couple of hours after leaving Columbus we stopped 
 at the desolate looking village of Hickman, which is on 
 the "Ole Kentucky shore," at this point a very slimy 
 one. The scenery of the river, if scenery it can be 
 called, was now dreary in the extreme and continued so 
 
MEMPHIS. 
 
 253 
 
 bankment, 
 iw land on 
 great river 
 iiagine that 
 could have 
 le site of a 
 
 The town 
 zn shanties, 
 )le by mud. 
 
 conceived, 
 i, when he 
 
 rought us to 
 pur of land 
 wide, in fact 
 rg or Baton 
 n the hills 
 landed ruins 
 civil war to 
 Impedes the 
 •ge portions 
 |e river, 
 we stopped 
 Iwhich is on 
 very slimy 
 it can be 
 ntinued so 
 
 for the whole of the distance to New Orleans. Surely 
 the Mississippi must be the most uninteresting river in 
 the world, in spite of the boastings of oratorical patriots. 
 Not a particle of romance can possibly attach to the 
 immense forests of poor timber, or the dismal swamps 
 which alternate with them. 
 
 The next day we reached Memphis, in the State of 
 Tennessee, 420 miles below St. Louis. This flourishing 
 new city stands on a yellow bluft', thirty feet above the 
 highest floods, and is already a place of much importance. 
 It extends for several miles along the high banks of the 
 river, though it does not run far back. The streets are 
 at right angles to the principal thoroughfareij, which are 
 parallel to the river. In the centre of the town is a 
 green square planted with trees, which seems a place of 
 great resort by the citizens. The lofty stores and ware- 
 houses, the rows of shops on the broad street along the 
 river, and the number and size of the public and private 
 edifices, attest the results of the development of commerce 
 created in a great measure by the Mississippi. Memphis 
 is the outlet of a large cotton district, and exports 400,000 
 bales annually. It has fine public buildings and hotels, 
 a theatre, eighteen churches, two medical colleges, five 
 daily and three weekly newspapers, besides numerous 
 banks and insurance offices. It is connected by railwii)- 
 with New Orleans, Charleston, Louisville, and Litde 
 Rock ; and possesses foundries and manufactories of 
 
"i! 
 
 m 
 I i 
 
 ii 
 
 < .,•! 
 
 254 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 boilers and machinery. Its population is estimated at 
 something over 30,000. During the War of Secession it 
 fell into the hands of the Federal forces after the fall of 
 Island No. 10, in 1862, and was the base of military- 
 operations for the capture of Vicksburg. Memphis is a 
 wonderful place, and impressed me with the idea of 
 progress more than any other place in the States. I was 
 perplexed and amused by the mixture of whites, negroes, 
 and of the semi-savage, degraded by his contact with the 
 white man; by the contrast between the gigantic steamer 
 and the "dug-out" of the black man, which are to be 
 seen in close proximity on the river ; by the roll of 
 heavily-laden drays and the rattle of cars in the streets, 
 and at all the phenomena of active commercial life, being 
 included in the same scope of vision that takes in, at the 
 other side of the Mississippi, lands scarcely yet settled, 
 and some that remain in the same state as they were 
 centuries ago. 
 
 Human life is still held cheap on the Mississippi, and 
 " differences " still frequently occur, which end in blood- 
 shed. 
 
 The next place of any importance we arrived at was 
 Helena, a small town in the State of Arkansas. Helena 
 aiands in the mud, at the foot of some low hills, and was 
 the scene of a severe engagement during the war. For a 
 long time we continued our dreary way, until we arrived 
 at Napoleon, a wretched-looking place, consisting of a 
 
mated at 
 jcession it 
 the fall of 
 )f military 
 mphis is a 
 e idea of 
 es. I was 
 5, negroes, 
 ct with the 
 ;ic steamer 
 are to be 
 he roll of 
 the streets, 
 I life, being 
 s in, at the 
 et settled, 
 they were 
 
 |ssippi, and 
 in blood- 
 
 -ed at was 
 Helena 
 Is, and was 
 lar. For a 
 ^e arrived 
 sting of a 
 
 VICKSBURG. 
 
 255 
 
 collection of wooden houses, situated on a spit of muddy 
 land, near the mouth of the Arkansas river. 
 
 The next day we reached Vicksburg, which is about 
 400 miles distant from New Orleans and 120 from 
 Natchez, and which stands on a high bluff of yellow clay 
 on the left bank of the river. Seen from the river with 
 the remains of its great earth-works, and with the Court 
 House and the spire of the Roman Catholic Church on 
 the highest points, Vicksburg has a somewhat imposing 
 and even picturesque appearance. 
 
 Vicksburg is the largest town, though not the capital 
 of the State of Mississippi, and its exports of cotton before 
 the war amounted to 100,000 bales per annum. It was 
 strongly fortified in 1862 and provided with a numerous 
 garrison. In January 1863 it wa: attacked by the 
 Federal naval force from Memphis and New Orleans, but 
 without success. In April 1863 a naval attack was com- 
 bined with the land forces under General Grant, who 
 defeated General Pemberton near Jackson, cut off sup- 
 plies and reinforcements for the garrison, and with a 
 close siege and continual assaults compelled a surrender 
 on July 4th 1863, with 30,000 prisoners, 200 cannon, 
 and 70,000 stand of arms. From the natural strength 
 and importance of its position Vicksburg has often been 
 called the " Quebec of the Mississippi," but the town itself 
 is miserable, the streets for the most part being unpaved, 
 and the buildings irregular, and generally constructed of 
 

 ff" 
 
 ■^ 
 
 \h 
 
 
 I ! I 
 
 I 
 
 ^ II 
 
 256 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 I '} ' 
 
 wood or brick. From the terrace of the Court House, 
 the view of the river, and of the vast tracts of forest, 
 extending as far as the eye can reach, is, however, very- 
 fine. A Httle above the town, situated on a hill that 
 slopes gently down to the river, is a cemetery in which 
 repose the bodies of more than 30,000 Federal soldiers, 
 an awful memorial of that terrible fratricidal war, called 
 by some Americans "a little family quarrel." Vicksburg 
 is a place of much commercial importance and contains 
 about 10,000 inhabitants. 
 
 After leaving Vicksburg there was nothing to break the 
 monotony of the next 100 miles, until we approached 
 Natchez, when the banks became steeper, and the scenery 
 a little more interesting. Natchez, distant from New 
 Orleans 280 miles, is situated on a bluff 150 feet high, 
 which here forms the river-bank. A portion of the town 
 is called Natchez-under-the-Hill, and was formerly the 
 resort of the river gamblers, pirates and other desperate 
 characters. The city has ten churches, a Court House, 
 Jail, the United States Marine Hospital, and possesses 
 two daily papers. It is tne shipping port of a large and 
 fertile cotton district and has steam communicr "on with 
 the whole Mississippi valley. Natchez, which derives its 
 name from a noted tribe of Indians, was settled by the 
 French in 17 16, and destroyed by Indians in 1729, but 
 was subsequently re-built. Its population is estimated at 
 20,000. 
 
 ki 
 
BATON ROUGE. 
 
 257 
 
 rt House, 
 of forest, 
 ever, very 
 \ hill that 
 r in which 
 al soldiers, 
 war, called 
 Vicksburg 
 d contains 
 
 D break the 
 approached 
 the scenery 
 from New 
 o feet high, 
 f the town 
 irmerly the 
 ;r desperate 
 lurt House, 
 Id possesses 
 large and 
 ^ "on with 
 derives its 
 |ttled by the 
 1729, but 
 stimated at 
 
 Shortly after leaving Natchez we passed the mouth of 
 the Great Red River on the right, which came rolling out 
 from amidst forests looking nearly as broad as the 
 Mississippi itself; and yet the latter after its junction with 
 it did not seem to gain at all in width. The settlements 
 on the :i/er banks now became more numerous, and we 
 stopped at several small places, one of which, Port Hudson, 
 was prettily situated on a bluff of loamy clay and was very 
 refreshing to the eye after the low swampy forests and 
 flat plantation lands which border the greater portion of 
 the lower Mississippi. 
 
 TJie next stopping place was Baton Rouge, a small 
 town, formerly the political capital of the State of 
 Louisiana. Like Vicksburg and Natchez, it stands on 
 rising ground, and is about eighty miles to the north- 
 west of New Orleans. It is a dull and sleepy place. In 
 the centre of the town stands the Capitol, a big castellated 
 building, which was gutted by fire during the war ; since 
 which time the Legislaturv'^ of the State has held its 
 sittings at New Orleans, and Baton Rouge has lost its 
 pride of place, as capital of the State. As far back as 
 1838 it was the seat of a college. Besides the Louisiana 
 Penitentiary, Baton Rouge contains an Asylum where all 
 the deaf and dumb of the State from ten to thirty years of 
 age, and all the blind between the ages of eight and 
 twenty-five, are entitled to be educated and maintained 
 
 at the public charge. Baton Rouge contains about 
 
 18 
 
r - 
 
 m 
 
 258 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 m 
 
 III 
 
 % 
 
 
 t 
 
 10,000 inhabitants and on the opposite side of the river 
 another town of the same name contains nearly an equal 
 population. 
 
 From Baton Rouge to New Orleans the banks are 
 flat and uninteresting and the country seemed to consist, 
 for the most part, of low swampy land. 
 
 Take it altogether, the journey from St. Louis to the 
 mouth of the Mississippi is one of singularly little 
 interest. The desolation is oppressive. For hundreds 
 of miles, dense forests of poor, weedy-looking trees 
 alternate with undrained swamps. Towns are rare, and 
 vast tracts of land intervene between them. The villages 
 and detached shanties stand on unhealthy clearings, and 
 the rotting timbers which support them are plastered 
 with advertisements of specifics against chills, agues, and 
 fevers. There are hundreds and hundreds of square 
 miles of rich marsh and forest land waiting to be drained 
 and so made to minister to the wants of a thriving 
 population, and to the enrichment of the country at 
 large. It seems almost incredible thrt instead of 
 fostering this important object, the United States 
 Government has recently thrown away millions in 
 purchasing a wretched country like Alaska, from mere 
 lust of possessing more territory. 
 
 New Orleans the political and commercial metropolis 
 of the State of Louisiana, is situated on both sides of the 
 Mississippi, but principally op the left, about 100 miles 
 
 I !• 
 
NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 259 
 
 ■ the river 
 an equal 
 
 janks are 
 to consist, 
 
 >uis to the 
 irly little 
 hundreds 
 cing trees 
 rare, and 
 he villages 
 irings, and 
 plastered 
 agues, and 
 of square 
 3e drained 
 a thriving 
 country at 
 nstead of 
 ed States 
 nillions in 
 "rom mere 
 
 [metropolis 
 lides of the 
 100 miles 
 
 above its mouth. Though large, it is anything but a fine 
 city, being built on the alluvial banks of the river, on 
 ground lower than the high-water level, and only 
 protected from inundations by a levee or embankment 
 of earth, four feet high and fifteen feet wide, that extends 
 for a great distance on both sides of the river, and forms 
 a pleasant promenade in the winter months. The water 
 that percolates through this embankment and the natural 
 drainage is conducted by open gutters, which run through 
 the streets, into a swamp that lies between the city and 
 Lake Pontchartrain, three miles distant. There is always 
 the danger of the Mississippi making a breach in the 
 embankment and pouring its waters into the city ; 
 besides which, Lake Pontchartrain has a nasty habit of 
 backing up and inundating it, after the prevalence of 
 certam winds. Thus New Orleans is unpleasantly 
 situated between two waters ; and the soil is so full of 
 moisture that no excavations can be made. The largest 
 buildings have no cellars below the surface ; and in the 
 cemeteries there are no graves, the dead being placed in 
 tombs above ground. 
 
 The older part of New Orleans is built within a great 
 bend of the river, from which circumstance it derives its 
 name of the " Crescent City." It has however long ago 
 overstepped its original limits, and now extends for a 
 distance of about twelve miles along the river bank, 
 presenting an outline somewhat like the letter S. 
 
-/. . 
 
 
 
 |r I.- 
 
 li '1 
 
 r« 
 
 260 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 New Orleans was settled by the French in 17 18, but 
 was abandoned in consequence of floods and sickness. 
 Another, and more successful attempt at settlement was 
 made in 1723, and the colony was held by the French 
 until 1729; then by the Spaniards till 1801, and by the 
 French again until 1803 ; when it was ceded with the 
 Province of Louisiana to the United States. In i860, 
 Louisiana having seceded from the Union, New Orleans 
 became an important centre of commercial and military 
 operations, and was closely blockaded by a Federal fleet. 
 An expedition of gunboats under Admiral Farragut forced 
 the defences at the mouth of the river on April 24th, 
 1862 ; when the city was forced to surrender, and was 
 occupied by General Butler as military Governor. 
 
 The streets of New Orleans are very wide and handsome 
 in appearance, though only the principal of them are 
 paved. Those parallel with the river extend in an 
 unbroken line, for a distance of about twelve miles ; those 
 at right angles to them, that run from the river to the 
 lake, are also very regular. The streets that are not 
 paved, are simply quagmires : in winter they are not 
 practicable at all, and even in summer the dust makes 
 them almost impassable. The open gutters form a bad 
 feature of the streets of New Orleans ; these have very 
 steep sides, and are crossed at street corners by small 
 bridges, consisting of single stones, and allowing two 
 persons only to cross at a time. 
 
 :j|'f : 
 
NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 261 
 
 17 18, but 
 [ sickness, 
 sment was 
 he French 
 tnd by the 
 i with the 
 In i860, 
 ew Orleans 
 rid military 
 ideral fleet, 
 agut forced 
 April 24th, 
 r, and was 
 nor. 
 
 1 handsome 
 them are 
 end in an 
 niles ; those 
 river to the 
 lat are not 
 ey are not 
 dust makes 
 form a bad 
 have very 
 rs by small 
 owing two 
 
 Canal street is the main business thoroughfare, and 
 promenade ; and may be said to divide the city into two 
 pretty equal parts. It is nearly 200 feet wide, and has a 
 grass-plot twenty-five feet wide, and bordered with two 
 rows of trees in the centre, extending its whole length. 
 Claiborne, Rampart, St. Charles, and Esplanade streets, 
 are embellished in the same manner. In Canal street 
 is a colossal bronze statue of Henry Clay. 
 
 Jackson Square is the favourite place of resort j it 
 contains beautiful trees and shubbery, and shell-strewn 
 walks ; in the centre stands an equestrian Statue of 
 General Jackson. When the Federals occupied New 
 Orleans, they, with execrably bad taste, cut twice upon the 
 granite pedestal of this statue, the motto "The Union 
 must, and shall be preserved," making it appear as if 
 General Jackson had enunciated that sentiment. Over- 
 looking this square, is the French Cathedral of St. Louis, 
 built in the old French style, and two Court Houses 
 in the Tusco-Doric ; which have a very picturesque 
 appearance. 
 
 Lafayette Square is also a handsome enclosure, and 
 contains a fine marble statue of Franklin by Hiram 
 Powers. The City Hall, Oddfellows' Hall and a fine 
 Presbyterian Church, all front this square. 
 
 New Orleans is net remarkable for its architecture, but 
 it possesses a few very fine buildings, the principal of 
 which is the Custom House and Post Office. This fine 
 
262 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 St!? * 
 
 i 
 
 M f I 
 
 edifice is built of a dark granite, and is after the Capitol 
 at Washington, the largest building in the States ; it has 
 some fine columns with heavy Egyptian capitals, and the 
 Long Room is a very handsome hall. The City Hall is 
 certainly the finest edifice in the city ; it is built of white 
 marble in the Ionic style, with a wide and high flight of 
 steps leading to an elegant portico, supported by eight 
 columns. The State and City Libraries occupy rooms in 
 this building. 
 
 The churches of New Orleans are numerous and 
 handsome. The most famous is the Roman Catholic 
 Cathedral of St. Louis, which has an imposing fagade, 
 surmounted by a lofty blue-slated steeple and flanked by 
 two towers, each capped by a smaller blue-slated spire. 
 The paintings on the ceiling of this building are by Canova 
 and Rissi. The finest Episcopal Church is St. Peter's, 
 which is a handsome specimen of Gothic architecture, 
 and has a very rich interior. The Presbyterian Church is 
 a fine structure in Greco-Doric style, and is much admired 
 for its fine steeple. The Temple Sinai, the principal 
 Jewish place of worship, has a light and elegant appear- 
 ance ; it is built of parti-coloured bricks, and has a 
 handsome portico flanked by two towers, surmounted by 
 tinted cupolas. Its Gothic windows are filled with 
 beautifully stained glass, and the interior is remarkably 
 rich and beautiful. 
 
 There are in New Orleans eighty public schools, and 
 
NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 263 
 
 le Capitol 
 es ; it has 
 s, and the 
 ity Hall is 
 It of white 
 h flight of 
 i by eight 
 y rooms in 
 
 erous and 
 n Catholic 
 ing fagade, 
 flanked by 
 lated spire, 
 by Canova 
 St. Peter's, 
 chitecture, 
 Church is 
 ch admired 
 e principal 
 nt appear- 
 ,nd has a 
 iOunted by 
 filled with 
 |remarkably 
 
 :hools, and 
 
 numerous private ones, mostly Roman Catholic, which 
 provide for the instruction and moral training of the rising 
 generation. Many of these are high-class educational 
 institutions, the principal being the University of Louis- 
 iana, which has only the two departments of law and 
 medicine, but these are of a high order, and very well 
 attended. The medical college, contains a fine anatomical 
 museum and other collections. Straight University is 
 exclusively for coloured students, and gives instruction of 
 good grammar-school grade. The public school system 
 of New Orleans is secular and free. The schools are 
 divided into " High schools," " Grammar schools " and 
 "Primary schools" and are governed by a board of 
 directors chosen by the City Council, who levy a special 
 tax for educational purposes. Opposition to the system 
 has only proceeded from the Roman Catholic body, who 
 are, of course, very strong in New Orleans. They have 
 not, however, as elsewhere, contented themselves with 
 simply denouncing the schools as "Godless," but they 
 have erected magnificent schools themselves, in which 
 children receive a good education for one dollar a month, 
 or, gratis, if they cannot pay that sum. 
 
 The principal charitable institutions of New Orleans 
 are the Charity Hospital and the Hotel Dieu. The 
 former is one of the finest buildings in the city, and one 
 of the noblest institutions in the country ; it was founded 
 in 178.;, has stood on its present site since 1832, and 
 

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 has accommodation for 500 patients. The Hotel Dieu 
 is a fine hospital, established by the Sisters of Charity 
 and supported entirely by receipts from patients, although 
 many are admitted free of charge. 
 
 A visit to the French market, which comprises several 
 buildings on the levee, is most interesting. The market 
 people commence to assemble at daybreak, and it 
 appears as if all nations and tongues have their represen- 
 tatives in the motley and ever-moving crowd. The 
 noise, however, is far from being unpleasant to a visitor's 
 ear. The prevailing language is French, and is heard 
 in every dialect and patois, from the fluent and musical 
 accents of the polished Creole, to the childish jargon of 
 the negroes. The articles exposed for sale are infinite in 
 their variety, but the fruits and flowers are especially 
 attractive. The former embrace all the products of both 
 the temperate and torrid zones ; and the rich colours of 
 the flowers are wonderful to behold. 
 
 The cemeteries of New Orleans are noteworthy for 
 the peculiar mode of interment in them. From the nature 
 of the soil, which is semi-fluid at a depth of two or three 
 feet below the surface, all the tombs are above ground. 
 Some of these are very costly and beautiful structures of 
 marble and stone, but the great majority only consist of 
 cells, placed one above the other, generally to the height 
 of seven or eight feet. Each cell is only large enough to 
 receive the coffin, and is hermeticplly bricked up at its 
 
NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 265 
 
 5tel Dieu 
 
 f Charity 
 
 although 
 
 3S several 
 
 lie market 
 
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 a visitor's 
 
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 up at its 
 
 narrow entrance as soon as the funeral rites are over. 
 In most instances a marble tablet, appropriately inscribed, 
 is placed over the brickwork, by which the vault — or 
 oven, as it is locally termed — is closed. 
 
 The levee is one of the most characteristic sights of 
 New Orleans, and for extent and activity it has no 
 parallel on the continent. Here a thousand river 
 steamers and flat boats may be seen at one time ; whilst 
 its wharves are lined with hundreds of sailing and steam 
 ships from all parts of the world. New Orleans com- 
 mands 20,000 miles of steamboat navigation, and is the 
 natural entrepot of one of the richest regions on the 
 continent. In the value of its exports, it ranks after 
 New York ; it is the principal cotton mart of the world, 
 and besides cotton, it ships sugar, tobacco, flour, pork, 
 &c., to the total value of ;^2o, 000,000. Its imports, 
 which consist principally of coffee, iron, salt, drapery, 
 and spirits, amount to ;^3, 000,000. Its manufactures 
 are unimportant, and its population is estimated at 
 210,000 inhabitants. 
 
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 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 MOBILE, SAVANNAH, CHARLESTON, RICHMOND. 
 
 Lake Pontchartrain — Description of Mobile — Harbour— Indians — 
 Vicinity — Montgomery — Atlanta — Macon — Description of 
 Savannah — Pulaski Monument — Bonaventure — Rail to Charles- 
 ton — Position — Harbour — Description of the City — Public 
 Buildings— Ruined Plantations — Columbia — Wilmington — The 
 City of Richmond — Capitol — St. John's Church — Statue of 
 Washington — Condition of the South. 
 
 Leaving New Orleans by the Pontchartrain railway, I 
 found myself within an hour on the steamer proceeding 
 down Lake Pontchartrain, en route for Mobile. This 
 lake is distant about five miles from New Orleans ; its 
 muddy waters teem with fine fish, and are covered with 
 game of all kinds ; it is forty miles long, twenty-five 
 miles wide, and from sixteen to twenty feet deep. The 
 shores are covered with dense forests of fine timber, 
 chiefly pine and cypress, and abound with deer. The 
 trip was somewhat monotonous, until we entered the 
 channel called the Rigolettes, and passed Fort Pike, 
 when the scenery became a little more diversified. In 
 the course of a few hours we were in the Mississippi 
 Sound, catching occasional glimpses of the open Gulf of 
 Mexico ; and soon entered the Bay of Mobile. Here, 
 below the bar of the Alabama River, at a distance of 
 
 
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:hmond. 
 
 ir— Indians — 
 description of 
 ail to Chailes- 
 City— Public 
 nington — The 
 h— Statue of 
 
 I railway, I 
 proceeding 
 )bile. This 
 Drleans ; its 
 overed with 
 twenty-five 
 deep. The 
 ine timber, 
 deer. The 
 entered the 
 Fort Pike, 
 rsified. In 
 Mississippi 
 pen Gulf of 
 )ile. Here, 
 distance of 
 
 MOBILE. 
 
 267 
 
 twenty-five miles from the city, vessels drawing over ten 
 feet of water are compelled to lie, their cargoes being 
 conveyed tc and from the city in small steamers; but 
 improvements are now being made, that will enable 
 vessels of thirteen feet g. ^ught to get up to the wharves. 
 
 Mobile, known also as the " Gulf City," is the largest 
 town and the only seaport in the State of Alabama ; and 
 is situated on the Mobile River, thirty miles distant from 
 the Gulf of Mexico, in the midst of a sandy plain, 
 bounded at the distance of a few miles by high hills. 
 Though regularly laid out, with well-paved and delight- 
 fully shaded streets, I should say it is one of the dirtiest 
 and most dismal towns in America. Government street 
 however, the principal promenade, is a fine thoroughfare 
 shaded by grand oaks, and containing many handsome 
 private residences with beautiful gardens. There is too 
 a public square, its walks well shaded by fine trees, that 
 is also a nice feature of the town, and tends to modify 
 its general dreariness. The only building in Mobile that 
 calls for special mention is the Custom House, which 
 also contains the Post Office ; this is a handsome e lifice 
 built of granite. 
 
 The City now contains a population of 40,000, and its 
 principal business consists in the shipment of cotton, of 
 which staple 350,000 bales are annually exported. There 
 are also a few foundries and machine shops and other 
 industries in the town. 
 
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268 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 The harbour is strongly defended, and during the late 
 Civil War the fortifications were attacked by the Federal 
 fleet under Admiral Farragut, who ran the gauntlet of the 
 batteries, destroyed the Confederate fleet including the 
 ram Tennessee, but did not succeed in capturing the 
 city itself, which only fell after the surrender of General 
 Lee, and was one of the last Southern towns occupied by 
 the Federal troops during the war. 
 
 In the outskirts of Mobile there is a small settlement 
 of Choctaw Indians who inhabit huts, open on one side, 
 constructed r f bark and covered with deerskins, and so 
 low that they can only be occupied in a sitting posture. 
 These Indians who live chiefly by cutting wood, which 
 is sold in the city by the squaws, though some of them 
 hunt, are a fine race, being tall and well-made, with 
 bright black eyes and light coppery complexions. They 
 seem extremely poor and miserable, and, will no doubt 
 in the course of a few years entirely die out, unless 
 something is done to improve their condition. 
 
 Spring Hill is a pleasant suburb some six miles distant 
 from the city, where there are a number of pretty villa 
 residences embowered among the woods. In close 
 proximity is a fine forest of pines, oaks, chestnuts and 
 giant magnolias, which latter are quite equal in size to 
 the other large forest trees, and, with their brown trunks, 
 masses of green foliage, and lovely white flowers, are 
 certainly pre-eminent in beauty. 
 
 > I 
 
 'rJ 
 
 
 M 
 
MONTGOMERY. 
 
 269 
 
 Much lawlessness seems to prevail, and crime is of 
 frequent occurrence, owing in a great measure to the still 
 unsettled state of the South, and the political ascendancy 
 of the negroes ; but on this subject I will write at greater 
 length later on. 
 
 The heat was so intense that I did not make a long 
 stay in Mobile, but taking the Mobile and Montgomery 
 Railway, soon left for the latter place. Montgomery 
 is the political capital of Alabama, and in size and 
 importance the second city in that State. It is situated 
 on the Alabama River and contains a population of 
 some 13,000 inhabitants. A prominent feature in it, 
 and one visible for some distance around, is the Senate 
 House situated on an eminence called Capitol Hill ; it 
 is a fine building with a large dome. Montgomery was 
 the first capital of the Southern Confederacy, but was 
 afterwards supplanted by Richmond. 
 
 I did not remain long in this town, but availed myself 
 of a train that started for Atlanta a couple of hours after 
 my arrival. The route lay through the most thickly 
 settled districts in the States of Alabama and Georgia, past 
 many pretty little towns, and though the scenery was not 
 strikingly picturesque, it yet possessed the Southern 
 characteristics of luxuriant vegetation to relieve it from 
 monotony. Atlanta is the capital of Georgia, and after 
 Savannah the largest town in that State. Its importance 
 arises from its position as the centre of several railway 
 
270 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 systems that here converge, and it has many of the 
 features of those Northern towns that owe their rise to 
 the same cause. It is however picturesquely situated, 
 and possesses a few good buildings, the principal of 
 which are the State House, the City Hall, and the Union 
 Passenger Depot. 
 
 Being desirous of hastening on to Savannah, where I 
 intended to stay for a few days, I did not wait at Atlanta, 
 but at once proceeded by rail to Macon, which place I 
 reached after a journey of five hours, through country 
 similar in appearance to that between Montgomery and 
 Atlanta. Macon is a remarkably pretty place on the 
 Ocmulgee River; it is regularly laid out, and is quite 
 embowered in trees and shrubbery. It is one of 
 the most prosperous towns in Georgia ; contains a 
 population of some 10,000 inhabitants, and possesses 
 important industries in its iron foundries, machine shops, 
 and flour-mills. After leaving Macon, a journey of some 
 ten hours' duration brought me hot and dusty to 
 Savannah, where I found good accommodation at the 
 Screven House and enjoyed the luxury of a bath, which 
 by the way always costs two shillings throughout the 
 States. 
 
 Savannah is without doubt the handsomest city in 
 the South and perhaps in the whole of the States ; for 
 it is embowered in the luxuriant foliage of orange-trees, 
 bananas, magnolias, stately palmettos, flowering oleanders, 
 
 
SAVANNAH. 
 
 271 
 
 pomegranates, myrtles, bay and laurel trees. The private 
 residences have mostly beautiful gardens, which are in 
 constant bloom, and the city itself is laid out very 
 regularly, the streets being wide, well-shaded, and crossing 
 one another at right angles. A charming feature of 
 Savannah too is the number r^ squares or greens at the 
 intersection of the principal streets. These squares, 
 twenty-four in number, vary in extent from two to three 
 acres, and being situated equi-distant from one another, 
 laid out in walks, and planted with evergreens and 
 ornamental trees, assist materially in giving to the city, 
 that appearance of tropical luxuriance of vegetation, that 
 constitutes its great beauty. 
 
 The position of Savannah, from a commercial point of 
 view is very good. It is situated on the Savannah River, 
 about eighteen miles above the point where it empties 
 itself into the Atlantic ; and it has become the second 
 port in the States for the shipment of cotton. Its river- 
 front is in the form of a crescent, extending a distance of 
 about three miles, and all the large warehouses are here 
 built on a narrow strip of land, that intervenes between 
 the wharves on the river-front and the base of a steep 
 bluff; thus their uppermost windows in the rear overlook 
 a sandy plain on the top of this bluff, planted with rows 
 of trees, which, under the name of " the Bay," is the 
 great commercial mart of the city. 
 
 Most of the public buildings, which however are not 
 
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i * 
 
 ; if »;t. 
 
 \m 
 
 272 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 particularly noteworthy, are erected on land fronting the 
 different squares in the city. They are consequently very 
 conspicuous, the most prominent being the Custom 
 House and Post Office, which is a fine granite edifice. 
 
 In one of these squares is a fine monument erected to 
 the memory of Count Pulaski, who fell in 1779, in the 
 attempt of the combined French and American forces to 
 recapture the city, then in the hands of the British, who 
 had taken it by assault in the preceding year. This 
 chaste monument, erected on the spot where Pulaski fell, 
 consists of a marble shaft fifty-five feet high, surmounted 
 by a figure of Liberty holding the national flag. In 
 another of these squares there is a Doric obelisk 
 
 mmemorating General Greene and Count Pulaski 
 
 .ntly. 
 
 At a distance of four miles from the city, on the Warsaw 
 River a branch of the Savannah, is the beautiful 
 Bonaventure Cemetery, which, at one time the private 
 estate of an English family, is now used as a resting-place 
 for the dead ; Nature having seemingly intended it for 
 that purpose. While still in private hands, it had been 
 laid out in avenues of live-oak trees, and these have in 
 course of time assumed the proportions of forest giants, 
 and stand like colossal columns on either side ; whilst 
 their ever-green foliage, interlaced high overhead, excludes 
 the light, and gives to the natural aisles thus formed, a 
 sombre and solemn aspect, quite in harmony with the 
 
 N-* !» 
 
CHARLESTON. 
 
 273 
 
 fronting the 
 quently very 
 he Custom 
 te edifice, 
 t erected to 
 1779, in the 
 an forces to 
 British, who 
 year. This 
 Pulaski fell, 
 surmounted 
 il flag. In 
 oric obelisk 
 unt Pulaski 
 
 I the Warsaw 
 
 he beautiful 
 
 the private 
 
 resting-place 
 
 2nded it for 
 
 it had been 
 
 ese have in 
 
 brest giants, 
 
 side ; whilst 
 
 ad, excludes 
 
 IS formed, a 
 
 ny with the 
 
 purpose to which they are put. Nowhere have I seen so 
 appropriate a home for the dead, as in these darkened 
 leafy glades, where the very moss and wild vine that 
 hang pendent from the green canopy overhead, seem to 
 mourn for those who lie buried beneath their shade. 
 
 After spending a couple of days very pleasantly, in 
 spite of the great heat at Savannah, I proceeded by the 
 Savannah and Charleston Railway to the latter place. 
 The road thither runs within a few miles of the sea-shore, 
 but we never caught sight of the ocean, and for a great 
 distance passed over swamps, and across numerous 
 muddy streams, the rails being laid on piles. The 
 scenery though not picturesque, was rich in grand vege- 
 tation, for we passed many dense forests of pines, 
 cypresses, bay and laurel trees ; while huge oaks of 
 enormous size, that must for centuries have withstood 
 the ravages of time, lined the road on either side ; in 
 parts forming magnificent avenues, within the shade of 
 which, innumerable flowers of all colours and hues made 
 beautifully variegated floral carpets. 
 
 Charleston is situated on a narrow spit of land formed 
 by the junction of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, at the 
 point where they enter the sea ; it thus possesses three 
 water frontages. It is now the principal city in South 
 Carolina in size and commercial importance, and contains 
 over 50,000 inhabitants. It is, for America, an old city, 
 having been settled by an English colony in 1679. It 
 
 19 
 
 ' 
 
 It- 
 
274 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 h 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 •a' 
 
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 H 
 
 played an important part in the Revolution, which 
 obtained for the States their independence, and also in 
 the first stages of Southern secession, the cause of the 
 late civil war. 
 
 The Harbour is an estuary about seven miles in 
 length, extending to the Atlantic; it is almost land- 
 locked, the entrance being only a mile in width. It is 
 protected by strong batteries, the principal of which are 
 Fort Moultrie, Fort Sumter, and Castle Pinckey ; the 
 former being situated on Sullivan's Island, at the entrance 
 to the harbour on the right. Fort Sumter is now in ruins, 
 and forms a picturesque feature of the harbour view ; it 
 is built on a shoal on the left side of the entrance, and 
 commands the channel by which vessels enter. Castle 
 Pinckey, covering the crest of a mud bank, is immediately 
 in front of the town, being distant from it about a mile, 
 and directly facing the entrance. It was here that open 
 hostilities first commenced in the late war, when Fort 
 Sumter was bombarded by the Confederates, who com- 
 pelled the Federal garrison to surrender ; and for a long 
 time afterwards these fortifications were one of the chief 
 points of Inderal attack. 
 
 Charleston is built on low flat land ; extends a distance 
 of three miles from north to south, and is laid out with 
 some degree of regularity. There is no uniformity in the 
 buildings, but the absence of regularity in this respect is 
 more than compensated for, by the greater diversity; 
 
CHARLESTON. 
 
 275 
 
 on, which 
 nd also in 
 Luse of the 
 
 1 miles in 
 nost land- 
 dth. It is 
 f which are 
 nckey ; the 
 he entrance 
 Dw in ruins, 
 lur view ; it 
 trance, and 
 ter. Castle 
 mmediately 
 
 out a mile, 
 |e that open 
 
 when Fort 
 
 who com- 
 
 [l for a long 
 
 f the chief 
 
 a distance 
 [d out with 
 [mity in the 
 respect is 
 diversity ; 
 
 and as the houses are mostly detached, quaint in 
 appearance, and surrounded by gardens containing the 
 grand oaks, magnolias, and that luxuriant vegetation 
 peculiar to the South ; the town has a most picturesque 
 appearance. Charleston suffered very much during the 
 civil war, but since then, such progress has been made 
 in the work of rebuilding, that it now shows but few 
 traces of the great damage it sustain«^d. 
 
 King street is the principal tho*-oi:ghfare and contains 
 the best shops. In Meeting street ire the warehouses 
 in which the wholesale trade of the city is conducted, 
 and the Banks and Insurance Offices are located in 
 Broad street. The prettiest feature of Charleston, is a 
 fine promenade called the Battery, situated at the water's 
 edge, and surrounded by the best private residences. 
 From it a magnificent view of the harbour is obtained. 
 
 The country to the north of the city is very beautiful, 
 and the dilves in that direction along the banks of the 
 Ashley and Cooper Rivers are most enjoyable, passing 
 as they do, through rich tropical shrubbery. 
 
 Charleston possesses numerous public buildings ; they 
 are however with a few exceptions not remarkable for 
 beauty of design. The new Custom House which is not 
 yet completed, is a handsome edifice of white marble, in 
 the Corinthian t;tyle, with a very graceful portico. The 
 City Hall too is a fine building, approached by a double 
 flight of marble steps. The Orphan House, standing in 
 
 1 
 A 
 
II 
 
 276 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 r I'i 1* 
 
 the middle of extensive grounds which contains a statue 
 of William Pitt, erected during the revolutionary times, is 
 one of the most prominent buildings in the town, and 
 one of the best institutions of the kind in the States. It 
 has the honor of having produced men, who have risen 
 to distinction and attained the highest positions. 
 
 There are two churches in Charleston that are note- 
 worthy on account of their comparative antiquity. These 
 are St. Michael's and St. Philip's ; the former of which 
 was erected in 1752, from the designs of a pupil of 
 Sir Christopher Wren, and possesses a fine spire, 
 which forms a prominent landmark even far out at sea. 
 St. Philip's is not quite so old, and the greatest interest 
 attaches to its graveyard, where lie buried the bodies of 
 the most illustrious of South Carolina's sons. 
 
 It is sad to see the devastation caused by the war on 
 some of the plantations in the neighbourhood, notably 
 on James Island ; but nowhere does this feeling of 
 melancholy so forcibly oppress one, as during a visit to 
 Middleton Place, formerly one of the most beauiiful 
 plantations in South Carolina, and which still exhibits 
 in its luxuriant shrubbery and magnificent old oaks, 
 its lakes, and picturesque old tombs, traces of its 
 former glory, now, alas, wrecked and ruined by the 
 unsparing hand of war. 
 
 Leaving Charleston I started on my way to Richmond, 
 taking the cars of the Atlantic Coast line, and completed 
 
COLUMBIA. 
 
 277 
 
 ns a statue 
 y times, is 
 town, and 
 States. It 
 have risen 
 
 IS. 
 
 : are note- 
 ,ty. These 
 r of which 
 a pupil of 
 fine spire, 
 out at sea. 
 test interest 
 e bodies of 
 
 le war on 
 od, notably 
 feeling of 
 ig a visit to 
 St beautiful 
 itill exhibits 
 old oaks, 
 ces of its 
 led by the 
 
 Richmond, 
 completed 
 
 the long journey of 570 miles in a day and night. As 
 far as Columbia, distant from Charleston 1 30 miles, the 
 scenery possessed some of the Southern characteristics of 
 rich vegetation, though in its least beautiful form ; since 
 the country is flat, and covered with extensive forests of 
 pine trees. Columbia is the capital of South Carolina 
 and is picturesquely situated on the bluffs of the Congaree, 
 just below the lovely falls of that river. In 1865 during 
 its occupation by General Sherman's forces it was the 
 scene of a great conflagration, which destroyed the 
 magnificent gardens and fine trees shading the streets, 
 that constituted its most beautiful features. It is still a 
 remarkably pretty place and one of some importance, 
 containing a population of some 9,000 souls. There is 
 in course of erection a Capitol or State House that will 
 be when completed amongst the handsomest buildings in 
 the States. The Asylum for the Insane is also a fine 
 edifice. 
 
 Continuing the journey from Columbia ; the country 
 through which the line passed became more monotonous, 
 though presenting the same general chr ,cteristics of flat 
 country, with numerous belts of pine trees. The stations 
 on this portion of the road were few and far between, 
 the principal being Sumter and Florence. After travel- 
 ling about no miles we arrived at Wilmington. This is 
 the largest city in North Carolina, and is situated on the 
 Cape Fear River, about twenty miles from its mouth, 
 
 
278 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 i< • 
 
 which is defended by a strong battery called Fort 
 Fisher. 
 
 From Wilmington the scenery continued of the same 
 uninteresting character, and throughout the long stretch 
 of road, over which we had to travel, before arriving at 
 Petersburg, 160 miles distant, we only passed two 
 stations of any importance, Goldsboro, a prosperous 
 little town of 5,000 inhabitants, situated at the head of 
 navigation on the Neuse River, and Weldon a thriving 
 little place in North Carolina on the Roanoke River. 
 Petersburg is noteworthy, from having been the scene of 
 the last struggles of the Confederates in the late war, 
 which resulted in its evacuation by General Lee, and led 
 to the capture of Richmond by the Federals. It has 
 prospered since the war, and the vestiges of the great 
 battles that here took place are gradually being effaced, 
 but the remains of the fortifications are still visible and 
 form a mournful moment© of that sanguinary fratricidal 
 war. After passing Petersburg we crossed the James 
 River on a fine bridge and soon arrived at Richmond. 
 
 Richmond the chief city and political metropolis of 
 Virginia, and during the civil war the capital of the 
 Sout'iem Confederacy, is situated on the James River, 
 about 100 miles by water from Chesapeake Bay. During 
 the war, great importance was attached to its possession 
 by both the Federals and Confederates, and the former 
 often attempted its reduction. The obstinacy however, 
 
RICHMOND. 
 
 279 
 
 ailed Fort 
 
 f the same 
 ong stretch 
 arriving at 
 )assed two 
 prosperous 
 :he head of 
 { 9L thriving 
 loke River. 
 :he scene of 
 le late war, 
 ^ee, and led 
 als. It has 
 if the great 
 ing effaced, 
 visible and 
 y fratricidal 
 the James 
 imond. 
 etropolis of 
 )ital of the 
 imes River, 
 ay. During 
 possession 
 the former 
 ;y however, 
 
 with which it was defended, may be seen in the remains 
 of the strong line of earthworks thrown up around it, 
 and it was only surrendered after General Lee evacuated 
 Petersburg in 1865. To prevent the tobacco ware- 
 houses and public stores from falling into the hands of 
 the Federals, they, together with the bridges over the 
 James River, were destroyed by fire. In this manner a 
 considerable portion of the city was burned ; but 
 directly after the cessation of hostilities, the work of 
 rebuilding commenced, and Richmond now presents but 
 few tokens of the conflagration, and is rapidly regaining 
 its former prosperity. 
 
 The city, which is laid out with great regularity, is 
 built on two eminences called Richmond Hill and 
 Shocktoe Hill, separated by the Shocktoe Creek. 
 Crowning the summit of the latter of these hills, and 
 standing within a small park of some eight acres, is the 
 State Capitol, a fine edifice with a portico supported on 
 Ionic columns, the design for which is said to have been 
 furnished by Thomas Jefferson, after that of the Maison 
 Carree, at Nismes, in France. Within this building is a 
 life-size marble statue of Washington, erected by the 
 Legislative Assembly of Virginia. 
 
 Richmond contains some good public buildings, the 
 best and most prominent being the City Hall, and the 
 Custom House and Post Ofiice, both of which are hand- 
 some structures. There are also several buildings, to 
 
 :i!5M 
 
i^ 
 
 280 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 which much interest attaches, from having been pro- 
 minently connected with the late Civil War. Sunh are 
 the Brockenbrough House, formerly the residence of 
 Jefferson Davis when President of the Southern Con- 
 federacy, and the Libby and Castle Thunder Prisons, in 
 which so many Northern prisoners languished in con- 
 finement. 
 
 St. John's Church, too, which is a plain edifice, and 
 dates from ante-revolutionary times, is noted for its 
 associations with that period, for in it was held the Con- 
 vention to decide upon what course of action the Colony 
 of Virginia should take in the crisis that had arisen in 
 the relations between the thirteen Colonies and the 
 mother-country. On that occasion, it was Patrick Henry's 
 great speech that mainly contributed to the decision 
 being arrived at, to cast in its lot with that of the other 
 Colonies. 
 
 The Monumental Church, a handsome edifice with a 
 fine dome, is erected on the spot where formerly stood 
 the Richmond Theatre, which was consumed by fire 
 during a performance, when a great number of people 
 were killed. It is to commemorate that sad event, that 
 the Monumental Church was built. 
 
 Capitol Square, as the small park in which the Capitol 
 stands, is called, contains a fine equestrian statue of 
 Washington. This consists of a massive granite pedestal, 
 sum. nded by bronze figures of Patrick Henry, Thos. 
 
RICHMOND. 
 
 281 
 
 been pro- 
 Sunh are 
 jidence of 
 hern Con- 
 Prisons, in 
 :d in con- 
 
 difice, and 
 ed for its 
 d the Con- 
 the Colony 
 id arisen in 
 s and the 
 ick Henry's 
 e decision 
 the other 
 
 ice with a 
 lerly stood 
 id by fire 
 of people 
 jvent, that 
 
 |he Capitol 
 
 statue of 
 
 pedestal, 
 
 )ry, 
 
 Thos. 
 
 Jefferson, John Marshall, George Mason, Thomas Nelson 
 and Andrew Lewis, surmounted by a colossal bronze 
 figure of Washington on horseback. In this square there 
 is also a life-size marble statue of Henry Clay, and as the 
 little park is well laid out, it forms the great place of 
 resort of the citizens. 
 
 The population of Richmond now amounts to over 
 60,000, and it possesses a large commerce, its principal 
 articles of shipment being tobacco and flour. It is the 
 centre of several industries giving employment to between 
 four and five thousand men, but its chief support is the 
 trade in tobacco. 
 
 The scenery in the vicinity is very beautiful and one of 
 the loveliest spots is Hollywood Cemetery, in which, 
 under the shade of its noble trees, repose the bodies of 
 so many Confederate soldiers, to whose memor^ u monu- 
 mental stone pyramid has been erected. 
 
 Three fine bridges span the James River, and connect 
 the city with Spring Hill and a pretty little village called 
 Manchester, which contains a couple of cotton mills. 
 
 At Richmond I embarked in one of the steamers of 
 ^he Old Dominion Line and after a rapid and pleasant 
 run, arrived at New York, having completed a round trip of 
 some 4,500 miles since leaving it two months previously. 
 
 Before taking leave of the South I will briefly mention 
 the causes that led to its present condition, and what I 
 found that condition to be. 
 
 II' ■ 
 P; 1 
 
 u 
 
 li 
 
 i! ; 
 
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282 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 m 
 
 f' 
 
 After the civil war was at an end, and the Federals 
 began to reap the fruits of their victory, the confiscation 
 of the estates of those who had taken part in or abetted 
 the Secession movement, commenced. The result 
 was, that a great portion of the property in the South 
 changed hands, and families that had hitherto been 
 living in affluence, were reduced to poverty. Plantations 
 were ruined, towns in whole or part destroyed, and 
 havoc and ruin, that always follow in the track of con- 
 quering armies, were universal. Thus the South, that 
 had strained every nerve and exhausted all its resources 
 in the late struggle, from which it had emerged torn and 
 bleeding, was still more reduced and humiliated, and left 
 in a yet more prostrate condition, by the action of the 
 Federal authorities, that is, of the dominant Republican 
 party ; taken quite independently, and in defiance of the 
 sanction of the laws. This was the time chosen for^e 
 emancipation of the slaves, and the Southerners had to 
 learn the bitter lesson, that there was a still lower depth 
 of humiliation for them, in having their ex-slaves 
 suddenly converted, not into equals, but into masters 
 and tyrants ; for at the time the slaves in the South were 
 emancipated, the franchise was extended to them, long 
 before it was conceded to the better educated free 
 negroes of the North. At the time, too, that the 
 suffrage was granted to the ex-slaves of the South, many 
 of the whites, who had taken part in the war were 
 
THE SOUTHERN STATES. 
 
 283 
 
 le Federals 
 :onfiscation 
 or abetted 
 The result 
 the South 
 tierto been 
 Plantations 
 royed, and 
 ick of con- 
 South, that 
 :s resources 
 id torn and 
 ed, and left 
 :tion of the 
 Republican 
 iance of the 
 )sen for tjie 
 ners had to 
 ower depth 
 ex-slaves 
 to masters 
 South were 
 them, long 
 cated free 
 that the 
 |outh, many- 
 war were 
 
 deprived of their votes ; and many, sick at heart at the 
 existing state of affairs, migrated to the North : thus the 
 negroes gained the political ascendancy, which they have 
 hitherto maintained by force of numbers, and in spite of 
 the disabilities having been removed from the whites. 
 
 The state of the South at present is, that the high- 
 spirited whites, who made so gallant a struggle against 
 such overwhelming odds, are now tyrannized over by 
 their former slaves, and Northern agitators and 
 demagogues called "carpet-baggers," who are foisted 
 into power by the negroes, to whose ignorance they 
 pander. Education and intelligence are thus prostrate 
 before crass ignorance, and the bitter feeling existing 
 between whites and blacks is exhibited in deeds of 
 violence and bloodshed, which causes a large amount of 
 lawlessness to prevail. 
 
 This hostile feeling between the two races is said to be 
 fomented by the Republican party for the purpose of 
 retaining the Negro vote. This may or may not be the 
 case j but Southerners certainly repudiate with scorn, the 
 idea of there ever being a war of races ; and profess their 
 willingness to live at peace with their black fellow-citizens ; 
 if Northern agitators were prevented from inoculating 
 them with the communistic theories employed to keep 
 alive the agitation in favour of the Republican party. 
 
 The Negroes, who form the peasantry of the South, are 
 lazy and generally steeped in poverty, which will go far 
 
284 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 In 
 
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 towards decreasing their numbers, especially as it is con- 
 fidently stated that since the war, the number of births 
 has greatly decreased. 
 
 That the South will ever renew the struggle for inde- 
 pendence seems very doubtful, and as the old election 
 cry of the Republican party, raised for the purpose of 
 keeping down the South, and suggestively called " the 
 waving of the bloody shirt," appears to be losing its 
 potency, it is to be hoped that the existing state of affairs 
 will soon be amended. 
 
!| 
 
 s it is con- 
 ■ of births 
 
 e for inde- 
 d election 
 )urpose of 
 illed "the 
 losing its 
 e of affairs 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 Energy — Silence — Exclusiveness —Extravagance in Language — 
 Extravagance in Uress — Low Tone of the Press — Absence of 
 Pauperism — Power of Assimilating Foreign Immigration — 
 Diffusion of Education — Sobriety — Speech — Tobacco-Chewing 
 — Notes on Religion. 
 
 What first impressed me, after being a short time in 
 America, was the absence of marked distinctive traits in 
 the people, and their great resemblance in most ways to 
 Englishmen ; for much as Northerners may differ from 
 Southerners, and they again from Western men ; their 
 Englishness, if I may be allowed the expression, is still 
 very apparent. The cities too, especially in the Eastern 
 States, are essentially English in their appearance ; and 
 a visitor to such towns as Philadelphia, Boston, and 
 Baltimore, might very easily imagine himself to be in 
 Manchester, Liverpool or Bristol. In Southern cities, 
 such as New Orleans, this is not so much the case, as 
 their English characteristics have been modified in 
 accordance with the climate. Western cities like Chi- 
 cago have, from their newness, a more American appear- 
 ance ; that is, having been built in more recent times, 
 they have been laid out more regularly ; in many cases 
 
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286 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
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 ^rafflS^ 
 
 ,1 
 
 n 
 
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 n 
 
 losing in picturesqueness what they have gained in uni- 
 formity. 
 
 One of the most prominent characteristics of Ameri- 
 cans, and one that at once strikes a visitor, is their 
 tremendous energy. No enterprise seems to be too great 
 for them to undertake, and no obstacles in the way of 
 success are allowed to daunt them. It is this energy 
 that has re-built Chicago and Boston in so incredibly 
 short a time ; that has formed great cities where but a 
 few years ago, the axe of the pioneer was ringing amidst 
 virgin forests ; that has completed an unrivalled railway 
 system, extending through thinly populated districts, thus 
 inducing settlement on the land ; and that has carried a 
 line of rail from the Atlantic to the Pacific, a distance of 
 more than 3,000 miles, over obstacles that might well 
 have been deemed insurmountable. 
 
 In spite of what I had always heard to the contrary, 
 the Americans appeared to me to be a silent people. In 
 few instances, either in the public cars, in the railway 
 carriages, on steamboats, or on other similar occasions 
 when numbers of people were brought together, did I 
 find that I was first addressed. If I even opened a 
 conversation with my neighbour I usually received at 
 first monosyllabic replies, until he learned that I was a 
 stranger visiting the country, when he would become very 
 communicative. 
 
 The better class are exclusive and essentially aristo- 
 
 :!A?,f ft ' -iTi r T r^ . Tr?g g' g' ;t.. y ,'ffas K 
 
NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 287 
 
 d in uni- 
 
 of Ameri- 
 , is their 
 
 too great 
 le way of 
 tiis energy 
 incredibly 
 ere but a 
 ng amidst 
 id railway 
 tricts, thus 
 
 carried a 
 distance of 
 night well 
 
 contrary, 
 
 ^ople. In 
 
 le railway 
 
 occasions 
 
 |er, did I 
 
 ►pened a 
 ceived at 
 It I was a 
 pme very 
 
 lly aristo- 
 
 cratic in their tendencies ; they keep aloof from actual 
 participation in political life, in order to avoid contact 
 with the class of people who unfortunately are in office 
 in the States ; and this in spite of their great stake in the 
 country and consequent interest in the maintenance of 
 order. There is a section of the people, generally 
 belonging to the immigrant class, which is given to 
 exhibiting its independence and equality, in season and 
 out of season, and sometimes in a somewhat offensive 
 manner. Social equality is very admirable, and I, in 
 common with most, am very willing to concede it, as far 
 as it can be carried out; but it is very objectionable to 
 have it thrust upon one in an obnoxious manner, which 
 is only a form of impoliteness, and tends to destroy those 
 amenities of social life which are at once a necessity and 
 ornament of civilized communities. On the other hand 
 " flunkeyism " prevails to a great extent, the people 
 generally having an undue admiration for wealthy men, 
 and being almost servile in their adulation of members 
 of Royalty and persons of distinction from the Old 
 World. It was a common thing to see a crowd of 
 several hundreds of people waiting to see the Emperor 
 of Brazil enter his carriage ; and when I was on board 
 the Inman steamer leaving New York harbour, a salute 
 of thirteen guns was fired from the batteries in honour 
 of an Inaian Major-General then on board. The news- 
 papers too, chronicle the movements of the " upper 
 
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 , i 
 
m 
 
 « I 
 
 '•! 
 
 lUi 
 
 288 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 ^ #i; 
 
 ten" with far more diffusiveness than do their proto- 
 types in England, and they generally contain a whole 
 column devoted to such fashionable news as : — the 
 lovely brunette Miss B. being about to proceed to 
 Saratoga for the season ; as Senator C. having taken 
 a house for the season at Newport ; as the Honourable 
 A. D. being about to take up his residence, together with 
 his charming wife, at his country-house on the Hudson, 
 where he intends entertaining a select circle of his 
 friends ; and so on ad nauseam. In the Southern States 
 the pride of descent is very great, but is never exhibited 
 in an offensive manner. In the Northern and Western 
 States however, there prevails a great love for titular dis- 
 tinctions of all kinds, and it is common to give people 
 titles to which they have no claim. I was often addressed 
 to my astonishment as "Captain" and "Squire"; and 
 found that people generally were most punctilious in their 
 use of the "Sir," which they emphasize and use with tco 
 much frequency. This national trait struck me as being 
 very much opposed to the Republican idea of equality, 
 and is held to be a strong argument in favour of the 
 opinion, that Imperialism may yet carry the day in the 
 States. 
 
 Americans, in speaking, use strong expressions to 
 describe ordinary events ; everything in the country being 
 with them either tb-* greatest and biggest in the world, or 
 so small as to be beneath criticism. They are most 
 
NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 289 
 
 eir proto- 
 1 a whole 
 as : — the 
 iroceed to 
 'ing taken 
 [onourable 
 ;ether with 
 c Hudson, 
 :le of his 
 Kern States 
 r exhibited 
 id Western 
 titular dis- 
 ;ive people 
 I addressed 
 lire"; and 
 lus in their 
 c with tco 
 e as being 
 f equality, 
 ur of the 
 ay in the 
 
 lessions to 
 [ntry being 
 world, or 
 are most 
 
 extravagant in their praise of individuals — say of the 
 leaders of their own party, and unmeasured in their abuse 
 of members of the opposite one. A man, whose only 
 crime may be belonging to a different political party, will 
 have all his i)rivate affairs raked up, as if they were public 
 property, and be spoken of in terms more suited to the 
 description of a great criminal. To the supporters of his 
 own party, a political leader will be a demigod — to his 
 opponents a fiend. 
 
 The extravagance in dress is e([ually as great as the 
 extravagance in language, and is not confined to the 
 female portion of the community, but is common to both 
 men and women. I would say that in no country in 
 the world are the people so well dressed as in America, 
 for even in a crowd collected for any purpose, political or 
 otherwise, where the dregs of society, at other times 
 hidden away in the back slums of the cities, appear on 
 the surface, it would be difficult to find even one indi- 
 vidual clad in such rags and tatters as are, unfortunatel}', 
 so often seen in the large cities of the Old World. 
 Amongst American women, the passion for dress is a 
 species of monomania ; they have certainly great taste 
 in the choice and mode of wearing their attire, but it is 
 equally certain, that in the majority of cases its excessive 
 cost is not warranted by, or in conformity with their station 
 and means. A great deal of the prevalent commercial im- 
 morality may be traced to this passion for dress, combined 
 
 20 
 
290 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 ? ''-W"f 
 
 
 with the general high cost of living ; for heads of families 
 who might otherwise make a fair income, and jog along very 
 comfortably, in order 10 enable their wives and daughters 
 to enter a little into society, in which case they have to 
 " keep up an appearance," are compelled to toil from 
 morning till night, and in numberless cases are induced to 
 CMter into speculations outside their legitimate businesses, 
 for the purpose of increasing their incomes until they 
 become sufficient for their greater requirements.. This, 
 as can readily be seen, gives rise to much over-trading 
 and consequent fraud. People have been pointed out 
 to me at Saratoga and Long Branch who were known to 
 have lived quietly for a couple of years, putting by por- 
 tions of their income, and then to have launched out into 
 fashionable life, where for a season or two they would 
 be very prominent, and then having come to the end of 
 their tether, would retire from the scene and settle down 
 into their former quiet life. 
 
 It seemed to me that in the States everybody lives at 
 high pressure, and that there is a constant craving for 
 excitement. The newspapers recognize and pander to 
 this general taste, for their articles are as a rule written 
 in a highly-spiced and most sensational style and are pre- 
 faced by exciting headings. A low tone pervades the 
 press generally, and personalities are freely indulged in. 
 The foreign news is insignificant, as if to the majority 
 of readers it had no interest; and as regards articles 
 
 M^-f: 
 
NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 291 
 
 ads of families 
 [jog along very 
 and daughters 
 I they have to 
 i to toil from 
 are indaced to 
 ate businesses, 
 Ties until they 
 iments.. This, 
 :h over-trading 
 m pointed out 
 were known to 
 Dutting by por- 
 mched out into 
 kvo they would 
 to the end of 
 nd settle down 
 
 ybody lives at 
 int craving for 
 md pander to 
 a rule written 
 e and are pre- 
 pervades the 
 y indulged in. 
 the majority 
 gards articles 
 
 written upon any event of interest occurring in Europe, 
 the comments show such want of knowledge of the sub- 
 ject, and are couched in such self-gratulatory and 
 patronizing language — as if the writer were rather amused 
 at the vain efforts made to attain to the American stand- 
 ard of perfection — that they are quite beneath criticism. 
 This is a great drawback to the pleasure derived from a 
 visit to the States ; for during his stay, a visitor is literally 
 cut off from all that is taking place in the world ; and 
 on his return to Europe he will find that as regards the 
 history of passing events, his absence has occasioned a 
 perfect blank in his mind. 
 
 It would seem as if the vastness and diversity of their 
 own great country were all-absorbing to Americans, and 
 gave rise to this feeling of self-sufficiency ; which, how- 
 ever, cannot be desirable so long as they are dependent 
 upon Europe for so much of what embellishes their daily 
 life. How the low tone and virulence of the press 
 affects the political life of the country will be shown 
 later on. 
 
 A pleasing characteristic of the States is the absence of 
 pauperism, and this must be more apparent to English 
 eyes than to those of Colonists, who are accustomed to the 
 same feature in their own countries. In New York and 
 some other of the large cities of the Eastern States, I was 
 several times accosted by beggars ; but this is certainly 
 the exception, and not the rule, and I may safely say that 
 
 la ga i yhi i H' 'i i v .1 1 i->-.-'ry»f 
 
292 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
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 li: 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 1 
 
 1 ■ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
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 1 
 '* 
 
 
 throughout the Western and Pacific States I never saw a 
 mendicant. No doubt, in the large cities there is a 
 pauper population, however small ; but it is not apparent, 
 and only consists of those who prefer what Americans 
 call a "loafing" life to the healthier and happier one of 
 labour, that is open to all, and by which, those who are 
 willing to work can obtain a good and respectable 
 livelihood. 
 
 A surprising feature is the rapidity with which the 
 foreign immigration is assimilated, and many conflicting 
 elements fused into a distinct nationality. This process 
 of assimilation is also seen, though in a lesser degree, in 
 our own Colonies. It is often stated, however, by well 
 informed Americans, that it does not continue in the 
 same ratio that it formerly did ; and that in consequence 
 the large German and Irish immigration is not so readily 
 absorbed, but preserves more or less its distinctive 
 characteristics. If such be the case, and I saw no 
 reason to doubt it, it seems fortunate for the future of 
 the Great Republic that these two foreign elements are 
 antagonistic to, and thus tend to neutralize one another. 
 
 The attention that is paid to education is most praise- 
 worthy, although the standard is not high ; and it struck 
 me as being too utilitarian, deficient in refining influences, 
 and tending to inculcate a certain narrow-mindedness. 
 It is, however, generally diff'used throughout the country ; 
 and though the better class does not attain the high 
 
 I A '■- 
 
 
NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 293 
 
 ver saw a 
 here is a 
 apparent, 
 \mericans 
 tier one of 
 e who are 
 ispectable 
 
 kvhich the 
 :onflicting 
 is process 
 degree, in 
 2r, by well 
 ue in the 
 n sequence 
 so readily 
 distinctive 
 saw no 
 future of 
 ments are 
 another. 
 3st praise- 
 it struck 
 ifluences, 
 ndedness. 
 country ; 
 the high 
 
 standard of the corresponding English middle class, the 
 lower classes are undoubtedly better educated and far in 
 advance of our own. 
 
 In the above remarks I have referred to the education 
 obtained in colleges and schools, but I must not omit 
 the education by means of the numerous galleries of art, 
 libraries, and scientific and other associations, that are so 
 numerous in all American towns, even in those of com- 
 paratively small population. The institution of these 
 libraries, both free and otherwise, is an admirable means 
 of diffusing knowledge, and one that cannot be too much 
 admired, especially when conducted on the plan of the 
 Boston Public Library. This institution contains 260,000 
 volumes and 100,000 pamphlets, which are, together with 
 the use of a good reading-room, free to all ; and residents 
 of the City are allowed to take books home with them. 
 
 A visitor to the States must arrive at the conclusion that, 
 as a people, the Americans are more abstemious than 
 ourselves ; for although a great deal of drinking takes place 
 at the numerous bars, yet a drunken man is a rare sight ; 
 and the streets after dark in most of the cities are quiet 
 and orderly, forming in that respect a favourable contrast 
 to those of our own large towns. This is the more 
 remarkable as very little beer is made in the country, 
 except the innocuous lager bier ; and people are 
 therefore forced to drink the wretched Kentucky whiskies. 
 The consumption of wine is very small, but this is no 
 
294 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 « > 
 
 I 
 
 
 t'^l 
 
 i', i-'!" 
 
 doubt in consequence of its high price ; for strange as it 
 may appear, the cost of the native wines is quite equal to 
 that of the imported ; so that what would and ought to 
 be a good and wholesome beverage for the people at 
 large, and a means of keeping them from the pernicious 
 stuff sold under the name of whisky, becomes a luxury 
 available by the rich only. 
 
 In glaring contrast to the general cleanliness of the 
 people is the filthy habit of tobacco-chewing and con- 
 sequent constant expectoration, which is so common, 
 that it may almost be called universal ; although I did 
 not observe that it prevailed to any extent amongst the 
 better class. Hotels and all public places of resort are 
 plentifully supplied with spittoons, but the floor is 
 always covered with discoloured saliva and at first before 
 a stranger becomes inured to the disgusting custom, he 
 will often be seized with a feeling of nausea. It seems 
 strange that the ladies, the greatest sufferers from this 
 filthy habit, do not take some measures to modify it ; as 
 at present it prevails to such an extent that no floor, not 
 even that of the Legislative Hall, is free from its traces. 
 
 I should say that as a rule English is equally as well 
 spoken in America as in England ; for though the nasal 
 twang is very perceptible amongst certain classes in the 
 former, it is not more offensive to the ear, than is the 
 vulgar Cockney pronunciation or the Yorkshire or 
 Somersetshire provincialisms. Educated Americans speak 
 
 -> I: 'It ii 
 
NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 295 
 
 range as it 
 :e equal to 
 d ought to 
 people at 
 pernicious 
 a luxury 
 
 iss of the 
 and con- 
 common, 
 )ugh I did 
 longst the 
 resort are 
 ; floor is 
 irst before 
 jstom, he 
 It seems 
 from this 
 ify it ; as 
 floor, not 
 traces, 
 ly as well 
 the nasal 
 es in the 
 lan is the 
 shire or 
 ins speak 
 
 well, with only a slight inflection of the voice at the end 
 of a sentence ; which causes a slight sing-song intonation. 
 Of course many expressions, such as " I guess," are 
 general ; but it is a mistake to suppose, that many of 
 those put in the mouth of the typical stage Yankee, such 
 as " You bet" &c. are so. Even amongst Americans of 
 the lower class, such expressions as " You bet" are looked 
 upon as provincialisms. 
 
 I have elsewhere noticed the prevalence of hotel and 
 boarding-house life, and the absence of that "home 
 comfort " so dear to Englishmen ; the want of which acts 
 detrimentally upon the rising generation. 
 
 The Americans are a religious people, judging by the 
 number of places of worship in the different cities and 
 the generally strict observance of Sunday, except in a 
 few places where there is a large foreign population. 
 There is no State Church, but the Protestant Episcopal 
 Church corresponding with the Church of England, with 
 its high and low divisions, seems to appeal more to the 
 sympathies of the better class, and now that the pew-rent 
 system which perpetuates class distinctionss in a place of 
 worship, is being gradually done away with, its scope of 
 usefulness will be much enlarged. The Church of Rome 
 as might be expected numbers its adherents amongst the 
 Irish principally. The leading denominations in the States, 
 in point of numbers, are the Methodist and Baptist. It 
 may be mentioned that in the New England States, 
 
ii'i? 
 
 296 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 i fM-i 
 
 Unitarianism has rapidly increased and Evangelical 
 principles have in proportion declined ; the former 
 now numbering amongst its votaries many of the 
 most intellectual men in the country. New England 
 too, the land of the Pilgrim Fathers, and where at 
 one time puritanical austerities were enforced by cruel 
 enactments and laws, has given birth to the prin- 
 cipal of those religious excrescences of the nineteenth 
 century, that have sprung up with a fungus-like growth 
 until in many cases they count their votaries by hundreds 
 of thousands. 
 
 Amongst these out-growths of Puritanism, may be 
 enumerated Mormonism, Universalism, Spiritualism, 
 Materialism, Shakerism, and Free-Loveism ; and their 
 rapid growth show how tired the people must have been 
 of religious austerities, when such a re-action could take 
 place as the one that has thrown them by thousands into 
 the arms of these nevv beHefs. 
 
 ■K 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 Political Constitution— Effects of Manhood Suffrage — Vote ])y 
 Ballot — Effects of the Virulence of the J'ress — Civil Service — 
 Corruption in the Publij Service — Venality of Courts of 
 Justice — Reaction — L-onllicting Authorities in the State — 
 Difficulty of Central Government — Political Future of the 
 United States 
 
 The Territory of Colorado having lately been admitted 
 as a State into the Union, the United States now com- 
 prise thirty-nine distinct Republics or States, each of 
 which is self-governin«>- under a separate Constitution. 
 It is in fact a league of Sovereign States, banded together 
 for mutual protection and benefit, each of which delegates 
 a portion of its power to a Central Government, legis- 
 lating on matters affecting the whole. 
 
 The division of supremacy between the Union and 
 the States is defined as follows : — '' The powers delegated 
 by the Constitution to the Federal Government are few 
 and defined. Those which are to remain in the State 
 Governments are numerous and indefinite. The former 
 will be exercised principally on external objects, as war, 
 peace, negotiation and foreign commerce. The powers 
 reserved to the several States will extend to all the 
 objects which, in the ordinary course of affairs, concern 
 
298 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 
 'J i 
 
 i 
 
 the internal order and prosperity of the State." There 
 are however certain general interests which can only be 
 attended to with advantage, by a general authority, and 
 thus the Central or Federal Government has been further 
 invested with the power of controlling the monetary sys- 
 tem, of directing the post-office, of opening tlie great roads 
 which establish communication between the different 
 parts of the country, of legislating on bankruptcy, of 
 granting patents, and other matters in which its interven- 
 tion is necessary. Lastly, as it was imperative that the 
 Federal Government should be able to fulfil its engage- 
 ments, it was endowed with an unlimited power of 
 levying taxes. 
 
 The Government of each State is vested in a Gover- 
 nor, elected by the people, and a Legislative Assembly, 
 consisting of a Senate and a House of Representatives. 
 The Senate is generally a legislative body, but it some- 
 times becomes an executive and judicial one. It assumes 
 executive power in the nomination of public officers, and 
 judicial power, in the trial of certain political offences. 
 The House of Representatives has no share in the 
 administration, and only partakes in the judicial power 
 in so far, that it impeaches public officers before the 
 Senate. The members of the two Houses are elected in 
 the same manner, and by the same electors. Senators, 
 however, retain their seats for a longer time than do the 
 members of the House of Representatives. 
 
POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 299 
 
 The Governor is the chief executive officer in the State, 
 his duties being to lay the wants of the country before 
 the Legislative body ; to point out means to be usefully 
 employed in providing for them ; and to see that the 
 wishes of the people as set forth by their representatives, 
 are carried out. The Governor is head of the Militia 
 and the Commander of the regular forces of the State. 
 
 Manhood suffi^age prevails in each State, without any 
 qualification, educational or otherwise, except residence 
 in the State. 
 
 The constitution of the Central or Federal Government, 
 which sits at Washington differs in little from that of the 
 various State Governments. It consists of the President 
 of the United States, and a Congress, comprising a 
 Senate, and a House of Representatives. The Vice- 
 President is ex-officio President of the Senate, and is 
 elected in the same manner, and at the same time as the 
 President ; that is, by electors appointed for the purpose, 
 by the people of the various States. These electors are 
 in number equal to the members of the two Houses of 
 Legislature of the State they represent, and must not be 
 members of either House. The original intention of the 
 Constitution was, that the candidates for the Presidency 
 should be nominated by these electors, but this is not 
 carried out; the method of nomination now being as 
 follows : — Conventions are held by the two political 
 pari'es in the States, called respectively the Republicans 
 
300 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 and the Democrats, for the purpose of choosing two 
 from amongst the number of candidates for the Presidency 
 and Vice-Presidency ; who are put forward as the 
 nominees of the party, and the electors chosen by the 
 people, are pledged to vote for the nominees of that 
 party, by a majority of which he has been elected. The 
 result of this innovation is, that there is not that secrecy, 
 and inviolability, about the election, that was originally 
 aimed at, and for six months before it takes place, there 
 is a political ferment, and excitement, throughout the 
 country, that cannot but be detrimental ; as, during that 
 time, legislation may be said to be practically at a 
 standstill. 
 
 The President is elected for four years and is eligible 
 for re-election. He can veto any act passed by the two 
 branches of the Legislature, but if passed a second time 
 by a majority of two-thirds, it becomes law. 
 
 Senators to the Upper House have the title of 
 Honourable ; their term of office is six years, and they 
 are chosen not by the people direct, but by the Legisla- 
 tures of the various States ; two being elected by each 
 State in its sovereign capacity, irrespective of area or 
 population; thus Rhode Island with an area of 1,306 
 square miles, and a population of under 240,000, returns 
 the same number as New York State, that contains 
 46,000 square miles, and 4,500,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Representatives to the Lower House, who retain their 
 
POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 301 
 
 seats for two years, are elected by the people at large, in 
 the proportion of one, to every 120,000 of the population. 
 
 Secretaries of State and other Executive officers are 
 chosen by the President, and have no seat in Congress ; 
 so that the opinions of the President and his ministers 
 can only penetrate into Congress indirectly. The 
 President selects persons to fill posts in the civil service, 
 but his nominations have to be approved and ratified by 
 the Senate. The President, in common with all other 
 Executive officers, can be impeached by the House of 
 Representatives before the Senate ; and, if convicted, 
 can be debarred from occupying any office in the State. 
 
 The entire judicial power of the Federal Government, 
 by which it enforces its laws, is centred in one tribunal, 
 denominated the Supreme Court of the United States. 
 To facilitate the expedition of business, inferior Courts 
 were appended to it, which were empowered to decide 
 causes of small importance without appeal, and with 
 appeal, causes of more magnitude. 
 
 The Supreme Court of the United States consists of a 
 Chief Justice and eight Associate Judges, nominated by 
 the President, acting with the consent of the Senate. 
 In order that these judges shall be independent, their 
 office is declared inalienable, and their salary, when once 
 fixed, cannot be altered by the Legislature. The 
 Supreme Court has the power of determining all cjuestions 
 of jurisdiction arising in the States. 
 
I 
 
 302 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 ! ' 
 
 I 1 
 
 
 Each of the judges of the Supreme Court annually 
 visits a certain portion of the Republic, in order to try 
 the most important causes upon the spot : the Court 
 presided over by this judge is called the Circuit Court. 
 The Union is also divided into districts, to each of 
 which a resident Federal judge is appointed, and the 
 Court which he ])rcsides over is termed a District Court. 
 
 In addition to these Federal Courts, each State has its 
 own complete judicial system, by means of which 
 obedience is exacted to the State laws, and the life and 
 property of citizens protected. 
 
 The theory of the American Constitution is grand in 
 principle, the intention being the government of the 
 people by the people, in such manner, as to attain the 
 greatest happiness of the greatest number. It is sad 
 therefore, that such a large amount of corruption has 
 been allowed to creep into the public service, to render 
 the grand system of (Government almost nugatory. 
 
 This has been brought about by a variety of causes, 
 foremost amongst which, is Manhood or Universal 
 Suffrage witho.il an educational qualification, the conse- 
 quences of whicii are that the votes of that large section 
 of the people corresponding with our middle-class, who 
 have a stake in the country, and a consequent interest in 
 maintaining order, are swamped by those of the large 
 uneducated Irish-immigrant class and of the Negroes. 
 The better class, consisting for the most part of born 
 
 <*> l-L A 
 
POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 303 
 
 Americans of good education and means, finding them- 
 selves tinis outvoted, withdraw entirely from political 
 affairs. As is usual too, when the franchise is extended to 
 an uneducated class, the people composing it, are led by 
 demagogues and stump orators ; and the use of their voting- 
 power is not regarded by them in the light of a duty 
 devolving upon every citizen of a State, to be con- 
 scientiously performed, but is looked upon solely as 
 possessing a marketable value, vind is sold accordingly, in 
 the same manner as any other of their possessions. 
 Thus election frauds are of sucli common occurrence in 
 America, and the system of vote-by-ballot, if anything, 
 tends to increase them. 
 
 The system of vote-by-ballot was instituted to ensure 
 secrecy of election, but the mode in which it is carried 
 out causes it to fail in attaining this object. Two 
 differently-coloured voting-papers are used, one for the 
 Republican candidates and the other for the Democratic, 
 denominated the party " ticket •" hence the expression 
 " voting for a particular ticket." The voter strikes out 
 the names of the candidates he does not wish to vote for; 
 gives in his name, which is checked by the Returning 
 Officer, from a list of the registered voters ; and deposits 
 his "ticket" in the ballot-box, open, to prevent the 
 possibiUty of two being folded together. It will be seen, 
 that this voting system is anything but secret, and 
 consequently no protection against bribery. 
 
304 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 It is now nineteen years since a committee reported 
 to the Assembly of New York State that the ballot " still 
 fails to be a true reflection of the will of the people," and 
 since then, things would seem to have remained in statu 
 quo, in spite of the registry laws enacted by the Legisla- 
 ture of that State in 1865 ; for the following were 
 enumerated, by a committee appointed to enquire into 
 the conduct of the elections of 1868, as being the most 
 prominent frauds in connection with it perpetrated in 
 the City and State of New York : — 
 
 " I. Many thousands of aliens fraudulently procured, or were 
 furnished with certificates of naturalization illegally or 
 fraudulently issued, by means of which they were 
 enabled to register as voters and voted in violation of 
 law." 
 
 " 2. Many hundreds of certificates of naturalization were granted 
 in the names of fictitious persons, to be used by native- 
 b«rn and naturalized citizens and aliens in falsely 
 registering as voters, and to enable them to vote many 
 times at the election." 
 
 " 3. Many hundreds of persons voted in New York City from 
 two to forty times or more, each under assumed or 
 fictitious names fraudulently registered for the purpose." 
 
 " 4. Extensive frauds were committed in canvassing tickets, and 
 names of voters were registered on tlie poll-lists, and 
 democratic tickets counted as if voters representing them 
 voted, when no such persons voted at all." 
 
 " 5. To accomplish these frauds, gross neglect of duty and 
 disregard of law so great as to evince a criminal purpose 
 prevailed in some of the courts, while officers and 
 democratic partizans of almost every grade, either by 
 
POLITICAL CHARACTER ISI'ICS. 
 
 305 
 
 official influfciice or otlienvise, aided, .'sanctioned, or knew 
 of and failed to prevent them. The same influences 
 shielded the perpetrators in nearly all cases from detec- 
 tion or arrest, and when arrested they have, through the 
 agency of judicial officers and others charged with the 
 duty of prosecution, escaped all punishment." 
 
 " 6. Through these agencies the democratic electors of President 
 and Vice-President and the democratic candidate for 
 governor of the State of New York were fraudulently 
 elected." 
 
 " 7. And the investigations of the committee show that existing 
 State laws and the mode of enforcing them are wholly 
 inadequate to prevent these frauds, but that Congress 
 has the power to enact laws which, if faithfully executed, 
 will, to some extent furnish remedies hereafter." 
 
 " There is no law of Congress professing to prevent or punish 
 frauds in voting or conducting elections ; and the j.enal- 
 ties relating to certificates of naturalization are by no 
 means adequate. " 
 
 The above excerpt fropi the State paper refers to frauds 
 in connection with the Otate of New York, but the report 
 states that Maryland, Louisiana, and other States have 
 presented phases of the same evil. It must also be 
 borne in mind, that although the above report refers to 
 Democratic frauds, that the Republicans are charged 
 by their opponents with like mal-practices, and it is 
 generally conceded that they are tarred with the same 
 brush. 
 
 The press acts very prejudicially against the public 
 
 service of the country, and the effects of its virulence in 
 
 21 
 
3o6 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 ' i 
 
 
 respect to public men, are seen in the fact, that the business 
 of politics has sunk in public estimation, and men of the 
 better class keep aloof from it. All offices in the State 
 consequently fall into the hands of second-class men, 
 to whom the salary and perquisites of office are of vital 
 importance. 
 
 The Civil Service of the country is not a fixed one, and 
 all office holders in it retire at every new Presidential 
 election ; the vacant posts being filled by the supporters 
 and friends of the new President. It must be apparent 
 that this cannot be conducive to the proper conduct of 
 the various State Departments ; for as a new Presidential 
 Election takes place every four years, a person appointed 
 to an office under government has just time to learn the 
 routine of his work, when he has to retire, and make 
 room for a successor, who has no knowledge of the duties 
 he is about to undertake. To this may be attributed in 
 a great measure the frightful extravagance that pervades 
 every State Department and as far as my own experience 
 of one of them — the Post Office — goes, I can only say if 
 the others are not better managed, then they are a 
 disgrace to such a country as the United States ; for I 
 lost more letters during my short stay in America, than I 
 have ever done before, and the difficulty I experienced in 
 obtaining foreign letters addressed to me at the Post 
 Office, was simply atrocious. On one occasion the 
 mail had arrived from Australia, and expecting letters, I 
 
POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 307 
 
 went to the Post Office after the mail had been delivered, 
 and friends of mine were already in possession of their 
 communications. After answering the enquiry whence 
 I expected my letters, I was told there were none for me, 
 but not satisfied with this assurance I again went in the 
 afternoon and received the same reply. Insisting however 
 that there must be one or more for me I got the clerk again 
 to look, and sure enough this time he managed to find 
 three for me, two that had arrived by the Australian mail, 
 and one by the English. At that very time there must 
 have been two more letters of mine lying in the office, 
 but they never came to hand. Certainly I would not 
 like to say without more data, that the other Departments 
 are managed in the same manner, but in any case it 
 cannot be desirable, that the President should have such 
 an undue amount of patronage in his gift as the nomination 
 to forty thousand offices in the State, as is the case at the 
 present time. 
 
 I have attempted to point out the various causes that 
 have served to bring about the present corrupt state of 
 affiiirs in tiic United States, and I will now mention 
 what, from observation I found that state of affairs 
 to be. 
 
 From one end of the country to the other complaints 
 are general of the corruption that pervades every 
 Government Department, and everybody with whom I 
 came in contact seemed persuaded that votes are bought 
 
3o8 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 il 
 
 i' t 
 
 and sold ; that gross bribery and other mal-practices 
 prevail at all elections ; that the very fountains of justice 
 are polluted and judgments sold to the highest bidder. 
 Now these complaints are not confined to a class or 
 section of the people, but are universal, being attributed 
 by the Republicans to the Democrats, and vice-versa. 
 Certain it is that the maxim prevails " to the victors 
 belong the s ' ," and if say, a Republican President be 
 elected, then a: the offices in the State are filled by his 
 own supporters, who, knowing that they are only in power 
 for four years, are consequently less able to resist the temp- 
 tation to ''feather their nests" in that time. More especi- 
 ally so, since it seems to be considered part of the existing 
 political creed, that as office holders are appointed by 
 the President the representative of the majority, from the 
 majority, they are justified in enriching themselves at the 
 expense of the minority. Thus it is that Americans 
 distrust their public men, and impute to them dishonesty, 
 as a matter of course, without pausing to inquire whether 
 there be any grounds for such a charge. 
 
 The same accusations of venality extend to those 
 Courts of Justice the Judges of which are appointed by 
 the State Legislature, and it is universally believed by 
 Americans that, if a criminal only be a wealthy man, it is 
 almost a matter of impossibility to obtain a conviction 
 against him. It is not the Judges alone who are accused 
 of being venal, but Juries in the States are supposed to 
 
POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 309 
 
 be particularly open to convincing proofs of innocence, 
 when conveyed in that peculiar chinking metallic sound 
 that carries with it such weight and conviction. Persons 
 have been pointed out to me, in various cities in the 
 States, walking about at large (in consequence of their 
 having notoriously bribed the persons appointed to try 
 them), who, at some time or other, had been on their 
 trial for offences committed, concerning whose criminality 
 no moral doubt could exist, and who, in any other civi- 
 lized country in the world, would have been working out 
 a sentence to a long term of imprisonment. 
 
 It seemed to me, however, that a great re-action was 
 taking place in pubhc opinion, for there seemed to be a 
 general desire for reform, and the Conventions recently 
 held at Cincinnati and St. Louis for the purposes of 
 choosing the Republican and Democratic candidates for 
 the Presidency and Vice-Presidency, have nominated 
 good men in both cases. It is generally hoped which- 
 ever party succeeds in getting its candidate elected, 
 that the new President will have the moral courage 
 to sever himself from the traditions of his party, and 
 to devote himself to the bringing about of the much 
 desired reforms in the public service. He will have 
 an opportunity of gaining the goodwill of his fellow- 
 citizens ; of making for himself a niche in history, and of 
 having his name handed down to posterity with that of 
 Lincoln as a benefactor of his country. Sincere well- 
 
310 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC SKETCHES. 
 
 '! ^ 
 
 wishers of the great Republic, and those who believe in 
 its great destinies, must hope that this reform movement 
 is not a temporary excitement incidental to a Presidential 
 election, that may wear away and allow affairs to remain 
 in statu quo. 
 
 The weakness of the constitution of the United States 
 seems to be in the existence of two conflicting authorities 
 in the government, viz., the Central or Federal, and the 
 various State Legislatures ; for, as each State in the 
 Union is self-governing, and the powers of the central 
 authority are prescribed within somewhat narrow limits, 
 the latter cannot be strong, nor have the same power as 
 other national governments, that do not possess a 
 divided authority in the State. Nor is it advisable for 
 the maintenance of the Union, that such should be the 
 case, except for defence against foreign aggression ; for 
 the country has increased so rapidly that it now covers 
 an area of more than three and a half millions of square 
 miles, that is, a larger area than the whole of Europe. 
 
 Such an immense tract of country, with its diversity of 
 climate, naturally produces conflicting interests : thus it 
 is easy to see that the interests of the North, the great 
 manufacturing centre, would be different to those of the 
 South, the resources of which consist in its cotton, 
 tobacco, and other products of a tropical or semi- 
 tropical zone ; that these again would be opposed to the 
 interests of the great West, the grain-producing States, 
 
POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 311 
 
 elieve in 
 ovement 
 sidential 
 remain 
 
 sd States 
 ithorities 
 and the 
 2 in the 
 e central 
 >w limits, 
 power as 
 ossess a 
 isable for 
 Id be the 
 ision ; for 
 w covers 
 if square 
 rope. 
 |versity of 
 thus it 
 [the great 
 ise of the 
 cotton, 
 ir semi- 
 led to the 
 ig States, 
 
 and still more widely diverge from those of the Pacific 
 States, whose principal resources lie in their great mineral 
 wealth. Now the difficulty experienced by a Central 
 Government in legislating for such antagonistic interests 
 is abundantly shown in the working of the protective 
 tariff imposed by the Federal Government for revenue 
 purposes, and also as a means of paying off the National 
 Debt contracted during the late civil war. The eiiiects 
 of this measure, are to increase the cost of all manu- 
 factured articles throughout the country, and more 
 especially to benefit the North, at the expense of tlie 
 West and South. It must be plain therefore that were 
 the powers of the Federal Government enlarged and it 
 had to enact laws, say for the sale of the land, throughout 
 the country, that similar results would be produced, as 
 has been the case with the tariff; that is, some of the 
 States would be benefited at the expense of the others. 
 It would seem therefore, that the continuance of the 
 Union depends upon, and its interests are best served by, 
 maintaining the Sovereignty of the various States. 
 
 The Republican or as it might be called the Radical 
 party which comprises the people in the New England 
 and Middle States, and a large proportion of those in the 
 Western appears however, to aim at centralization ; that 
 is, the formation of an undivided Republic governed from 
 Washington, and with this end in view continually over- 
 rides the Constitution in its attempts to subvert State 
 
312 
 
 TRANS-PACIKIC SKETCHKS. 
 
 ikl 
 
 '1 
 
 ,1 "i fj 
 
 \y\ 
 
 
 ■ It' 
 
 Independence. This was the cause of the late civil 
 war ; for the Southerners fought for State Rights, including 
 the power to secede from the Union ; which the 
 Northerners wished to maintain in its integrity. It does 
 not require a prophet to foretell that if the system of 
 centralization be extended, as it undoubtedly will be if 
 the Republican party remain in power, that the civil war 
 will be repeated, and will end more disastrously for the 
 Union than the last ; for as it required the combined power 
 of the Northern and Western States, to put down the rising 
 in the South, it may easily be conceived that it would be 
 quite impossible for the Northern States alone successfully 
 to combat the Western, with the moral support they would 
 have from the Southern and Pacific States. 
 
 At present such an eventuality is not thought of, but 
 I have heard many enlightened Americans express their 
 abhorrence of the existing state of affairs, which does not 
 properly protect life and property ; which cannot prevent 
 justice from being bought and sold; and which allows 
 corruption to creep like a cancer into the public service. 
 I have heard too, many declare their preference for the 
 tyranny of one, rather than of a number, and express their 
 opinion, that an absolute Imperialism would even be 
 preferable to the evils of party domination. 
 
 Centralization would I believe be the death-knell of 
 the Union, and taking into consideration the vast size of 
 the country and what the population at its present rate of 
 
i late civil 
 s, including 
 which the 
 y. It does 
 : system of 
 will be if 
 le civil war 
 isly for the 
 ined power 
 n the rising 
 t would be 
 uccessfully 
 they would 
 
 POLITICAL CHARACTERISTICS. ^y. 
 
 increase will amount to, say twenty years hence, it is a 
 moot point whether the interests of the people would not 
 be better served, and civilization generally be more 
 benefited, by the formation of three distinct (Governments 
 —say a Northern, a Southern, and a Western. 
 
 There seems however to be no reason why the Union 
 should not be maintained, if State Sovereignty be pro 
 perly recognized ; especially if the better class of the 
 people would take a more prominent part in the govern- 
 ment, and when the evils of Universal Suffrage are 
 modified by the effects of the diffusion of education 
 
 ght of, but 
 press their 
 h does not 
 lot prevent 
 lich allows 
 lie service, 
 ce for the 
 press their 
 I even be 
 
 THE END. 
 
 :h-knell of 
 1st size of 
 2nt rate of 
 
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 llop-sireet, Melbourne. 
 22