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NiAOABA Falls in Wintib. 
 
/ 
 
 OUR OWN COUNTRY 
 
 CANADA 
 
 SCENIC AND DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 BKINU 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF THE EXTENT, RESOURCES, PHYSICAL ASPECT, 
 INDUSTRIES, CITIES AND CHIEF TOWNS OF THE PROVINCES 
 OF NOVA SCOTIA, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, NEW- 
 FOUNDLAND, NEW BRUNSWICK, QUEBEC, ONTARIO, 
 MANITOBA, THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORY, 
 AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 WITH SKETCHES OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE. 
 
 BY 
 
 V^. H. V^ITHROW, D.D., F.R.S.C, 
 
 Authc. of " The History of Canada, I'he Catacombs of Rome," " A Canadian in Kurope," Etc. 
 
 Illustrated with Three Hundred and Sixty Engravings. 
 
 ® oronfo : 
 
 WILLIAM BHIQGS 
 1889. 
 
' '!'*«.«' r.i'.w-" 
 
 ^iwgt^a^ii i^ i I % ^wy ' ■ 
 
 Enterad according to the Act of the Parliament cf Canada, in the year one-thousand eight hundred 
 and eighty-nine, by William Briccs, Book-Steward of the Methodist Boole and Publishing 
 House, Toronto, at the Department of Agriculture, Ottawa. 
 
 "Mr 
 
m 
 
 mmm 
 
 GtiR OWN GOyNTRY. 
 
 "Methinks I seo in my mind a noble and puissant nation rousing herself like a 
 strong man after sleep, and shaking her invincible looks ; a nation not slow and dull, 
 but of a quick, Ingenious, and piercing spirit ; acute to Invent, subtile to discourse, 
 not beneath the reach of any point that human capacity can soai- to. 
 
 "Methinks I see her as an eagle mewing her mighty youth, and kindling her un- 
 dassled eyes at the full mid-day beam ; purging and unsealing her sight at the fountain 
 Itself of heavenly radiance."— JfiMon'i " Areopagitica," 
 
 O NATION, young and fair, and strong ! ariso 
 
 To the full stature of thy greatness now 1 
 
 Thy glorious destiny doth thee endow 
 With high prerogative. Before thee lies 
 A future full of promise. Oh ! be wise ! 
 
 Be great in all things good, and haste to sow 
 
 The Present with rich germs from which may grow 
 Sublime results and noble, high emprise. 
 Oh I be it hence thy mission to advance 
 
 The destinies of man, exalt the race, 
 And teach down-trodden nations through the expanse 
 
 Of the round earth to rise above their base 
 And low estate, love Freedom's holy cause. 
 And give to all men just and equal laws. 
 
 Oh ! let us plant in the fresh virgin earth 
 Of this New World, a scion of that tree 
 Beneath whose shades our fathers dwelt, a free 
 
 And noble nation — of heroic birth. 
 
 Let the Penates of our fathers' hearth 
 Be liither borne ; and let us bow the knee 
 
 Still at our fathers' altars. O'er the sea 
 
 Our hearts yearn fondly and revere their worth. 
 
 And though forth-faring from our father's house, 
 Not forth in anger, but in love we go ; 
 
 It lessens not our reverence, but doth rouse 
 To deeper love than ever we did know. 
 
 Not alien and estranged, but sons are we 
 
 Of that great Fatherland beyond the sea. 
 
 — Wiihrovo. 
 
i 
 
 J 
 
 i 
 < 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 c 
 
 ii 
 
 tl 
 
PEEFACE. 
 
 A N intelligent acquaintance with the vast extent and 
 almost boundless resources of the several provinces of 
 the Dominion of Canada cannot fail to aid the growth of a 
 national sentiment, and to foster feelings of patriotic pride in 
 our noble country. To promote that acquaintance by a record 
 of personal experience in extensive travel throughout the 
 Dominion, and by the testimony of experts in many depart- 
 ments of industry, and of the best authorities in statistical and 
 other information, is the object of this volume. 
 
 Now, as never before, our country is attracting the attention 
 of publicists, and political and social economists of other lands. 
 Its wealth of field, and forest, and mine ; of lake and river, 
 inshore and deep-sea fisheries are being recognized in the great 
 commercial centres of the world. The magnificence of its 
 scenery, and the attractions offered to votaries of the rod and 
 gun are attracting tourists, artists, and sportsmen from many 
 lands. Its numerous places of historic interest, with their 
 heroic traditions and stirring associations ; and its variety of 
 character and social conditions, from the cultured society of 
 its great cities to the quaint simplicity of its French parishes ; 
 the rugged daring of its fishing villages, the primitive rusticity 
 
vi 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 of its backwoods settlements, the bold adventure of its frontier 
 and mining life, offer to the poet, the novelist, the historian, 
 an endless variety of environment and ffiotxf for literary treat- 
 ment which have already enriched both the French and English 
 languages with works of great and permanent value. 
 
 It is the hope of the author that the present work may 
 foster in the hearts of all Canadian readers — whether Canadians 
 by birth or by adoption — a still warmer love for the goodly 
 heritage which Qod has given them, and a still heartier devo- 
 tion to its best interests — to its political, its intellectual, its 
 moral, its material welfare. 
 
 W. H. W. 
 
 ■^i^v:^;^-^ 
 
 w^'^ 
 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 The Dominion — Its Extent and Resources .... 
 
 PlOB 
 
 17-19 
 
 NOVA SCOTIA. 
 
 Halifax, 21— Historic Memories, 25— Cape Breton, .30— The Brai 
 d'Or, 32— Sydney, 33— Loui8burg,36— Baddeck, 40— Windsor, 
 44 — Evangeline's Country, 46— Grand Prrf, 47— Annapolis, 
 52 — Yarmouth, 58— Moose Hunting, 59 — Fort Lawrence, 65 
 — Tidal Streams 
 
 A6 
 
 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 
 Ice Ferry, 68— Charlottetown, 69— Magdalen Islands, 69— Dead 
 
 Man's Isle, 70— The Lord's-Day Gale 71-73 
 
 NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Extent, etc.,75— St. John's, 79 — Fish Curing, 83 — Sealing and Seals, 
 86— Mining, 97— Travel, 98— Telegraph Cable, 101— "Isles of 
 Demons," 103— "Fishing Admirals," 104— Labrador, 106— 
 Anticosti 106 
 
 NEW BRUNSWICK. 
 
 Fort Cumberland, 109— Sackville, 110— Moncton, 112— St. John, 
 113 — High Tides, 116 — Fort La Tour, 119— Suspension 
 Bridge, 120— U. E. Loyalists, 122— River St. John, 123— 
 Fredericton, 124— The Upper St. John and Grand Falls, 126— 
 Grand Manan, 127— Miramichi, Forest Fires, 129 — Bathurst, 
 130— Bay of Chaleurs, 130— The Restigouche, 131— Camp* 
 bellton 
 
 133 
 
 QUEBEC. 
 
 The Metapedia, 138— " Jaw-breaking " Poetry, 141— The St Law- 
 rence, 142— The Gulf, 143— Footprints of the Pioneers, 146— 
 The JIa6t<on«», 147— River Ports, 149— Cacouna, 160— The 
 Saguenay, 162— Capes Trinity and Eternity, 164— Tadousao, 
 156— South Shore, 16a-North Shor«, 162— Mai Bale, 163 
 — Medieeval Villages, 164— Ste. Anne, 166— C6te de Beauprtf 
 
 167 
 
 //J 
 
 V 
 
viU 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAoa 
 
 City of Quebec, 100— Ita Stoned Paat, 173— Iti Oonvente, etc., 
 
 177— Quaint Streeti, 180— Old Ofttea nnd W«1U, 181— Dur^ 
 ham Terrace, 183— The Citadel, 184— Plains of Abraham, 186 
 —Wolfe and Montcalm, 186-192- Arnold, 193— Montgomery, 
 
 194 — Montmorenci, 196 — Champlain 202 
 
 Eantern Townships, 207 — Memphremagog, 208 — Founding of 
 ' Ville Marie, 214— Iroquois Attacks, 221— Old Landmarks, 
 224— Then and Now, 226— Winter Sports, 236— Ice PaUce, 
 Snow Shoeing, etc 237-241 
 
 ONTARIO. 
 
 Ottawa, 243— Parliament Buildings, 244— Timber Slides, 247— Down 
 the Ottawa, 248— The " Thermopyloe of Canada," 249~Oka, 
 250— Ste. Anne's 251 
 
 Eangston, 252— Frontenac, 253— The Thousand Isles, 265— 
 River Towns, 260— Barbara Heck, 261— The Rapids, 266— 
 Bay of Quinte 271 
 
 Toronto, 273— Fort Rouilltf, 276— Governor Simcoe, 279— Early 
 
 History, 280— Progress, 284— Churches, etc 284-280 
 
 Niagara Frontier, 290— Old St. Mark's, 202— U. E. Loyalists, 
 297-304— The Hungry Year, 300— Queenston Heights, 311— 
 Bridging the River, 312— Niagara Falls, 317— Beneath the 
 Falls, 322— The Falls in Winter, 329-337— The Suspension 
 Bridge, 338— The Whirlpool 340 
 
 South- Western Peninsula, 342 — Education, 344 — Laura Secord, 
 346 -Hamilton, 361— Dundas Valley, 363- Grand River, 364 
 — Indian Reserves, 364 — London and Western Towns, 365— 
 Oil Wells and Oil Industry of Canada, 368-368— The Muskoka 
 
 Lakes, 371-382— Lakes Huron and Superior 382-386 
 
 Lumbering on the Ottawa, 390 — A Wolf Story, 402 — A Log Jam, 
 406— Rafting, 409— Over the C. P. R., 412— The Narth Shore 
 ai\d the Nipigon, 416— Thunder Bay, 417— Fort William, 
 419— Lake of the Woods 422 
 
 ) 
 
 MANITOBA AND NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 
 
 Extent and Character of the North- West, 423— Winnipeg, 433— Red 
 River Voyageur, 436 — St. Bonifac«, 437 — Bright Auguries, 
 
 439— The Prairies, 442— Prairie Towns 444 
 
 The North- West Territory— Assiniboia, 447— Bell Farm, ''49— 
 Alberta, 449 — Saskatchewan, 461 — Athabasca, 463 — Indian 
 Types, 454 — Ranching, 468 — Fur Trading and Trapping, 460 
 -Canoe Life, 463— Portages and Rapids, 465-468— The Sel< 
 vedge of Civilization, 469 — Indian Missions, 470 — Snow Shoe- 
 
^^W^Ivk" 
 
 CONTENTS. is 
 
 PAoa 
 ing and Dor Trains, 473— Camping Out in Winter, 479— 
 
 Indian Hupentitiona, 481 -Wigwam Life, 484 — Miaaionary 
 
 HeroUm, 480— The Indian Problem, 488— Our Wards 400 
 
 ▲onMB the Continent, 404 — Wild Game of the Prairies, 490— 
 
 Medicine Hat, 409— Foundations of Empire, 600— Prairie 
 
 Morals, 603— The Rockies, 605— Calgary, 600— On the Kick- 
 
 ing Horse 610 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 Extent and Resources, 611— Mount Stephen, hlO- TheH "' of the 
 Selkirks, 622- Climbing a Glacier, 620— 8now Shedb Vl— 
 Rogers' Pass, 620— Bold Engineering, 632— Salmon >Vhecl, 
 634— The Thompson River, 640— The Cariboo l»oaii, 642— 
 Mining Life, 643— Fraser Canyon, 646— YpIc 647— The 
 Lower Fraser, 548— The Pacific Coast, 560— Vancouver City, 
 652 --''■' ancouver Island, 663 — "Victoria, 655— The Olympics, 
 567 Esquimault and its Men-of-War 659 
 
 The Chinese Quarter, 560— Joss- House, 504- Sabe? 56u— Wife 
 
 Purchase 666 
 
 Indian Villages, 568— Totem Poles, 509— Mission Work, 570 - 
 
 Little Jim 571 
 
 The Inland Passage, 672— Boundless View, 575 — Metlakahtla, 
 
 576— Port Simpson 578 
 
 Alaska, 578— St. Elias, 581— The Stickeen, 683— Sitka, 585— 
 
 •' Home of the Glaciers " 687 
 
 Port Moody, 589— Giant Pines, 590— A Salmon Cannery, 592— 
 New Westminster, 594 — Mountain Glory and Mountain 
 Gloom, 696— Banff Springs, 600— Fountains of Healing, 602 
 —Grand Scenery, 603-Our Heritage, 006— Its Future 608 
 
 ^^ 
 

LIST OF ENGEAVINGS. 
 
 Many of them Fcll Page. 
 
 Niagara Falls in Winter Frontispiece 
 
 Wolfe's Cove, Quebec 16 
 
 NOVA SCOTIA. rAGB 
 
 Halifax, from the Citadel 20 
 
 Intercolonial Station, Halifax. . . 27 
 
 A Fishin); Village, Cape Breton. 31 
 
 North Sydney, Ship-Railway. . . 3.3 
 
 Ruins of Louisburg 37 
 
 Primitive Post 0£fice, Cape Bre- 
 ton 42 
 
 Tail-piece 43 
 
 Expulsion of the Acadians 46 
 
 Grand Pr6 49 
 
 Ancient Archway, Annapolis. . . 63 
 
 In the Bay of Fundy 56 
 
 Salmon Stream 60 
 
 Moose Hunting 62 
 
 Folly Viaduct 64 
 
 Tail-pieces 66, 73 
 
 NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 City of St. John's, Newfoundland 74 
 
 Entrance to St. John's 76 
 
 Signal Station, St. John's 78 
 
 Fish Curing, St. John's 82 
 
 Fish Flakes 84 
 
 Seal Hunter in Snow Storm .... 80 
 
 Sealers at Work 94 
 
 Betts' Covo, Notre Dame Bay . . 98 
 
 Placentio 99 
 
 Tailpiece 107 
 
 NEW BRUNSWICK. 
 
 Snspensiou Bridge, St. John,N. B. 108 
 
 Beacon Li^jht 113 
 
 St. John, N.B 114 
 
 Timber Ship 116 
 
 Cantilever Bridge, St. John .... 117 
 
 PAOB 
 
 OldFort 118 
 
 St. John River 120 
 
 Martello Tower 121 
 
 River Landing 124 
 
 The Cliffs, Grand Manan 128 
 
 Salmon Fishing 132 
 
 Sugar-Loaf Mountain 134 
 
 Tailpiece 135 
 
 QUEBEC. 
 
 Quebec from the Cita<lel 136 
 
 MillStream 138 
 
 S.-vImou Fishing 139 
 
 On the Causapscal 140 
 
 Grand and Petit M^tis 146 
 
 Canadian Sawmills 160 
 
 Fails of Riviere du Loup 161 
 
 Capes Trinity and Eternity .... 164 
 
 Old Church, Tadousac 16t 
 
 QCEBEO CITY. 
 
 City of Quebec 161 
 
 Quebec, from Point Levis 168 
 
 Quebec in 1837 170 
 
 Wolfe's Old Monument 171 
 
 Old Poplars and Ramparts 172 
 
 Shell Guns 173 
 
 Interior of the Citadel 174 
 
 Old St. John's Gate 176 
 
 Esplanade, Quebec 178 
 
 Sous Le Cap Alley 179 
 
 A Street in Quebec 180 
 
 Old French House 181 
 
 Old Hope Gate 182 
 
 Citadel, from the Wharf 183 
 
 View from Governor - General's 
 
 Head-quarters 184 
 
9 
 
 xu 
 
 LIST OF ENGRA VINGS. 
 
 j 187 
 I 188 
 \ 189 
 
 Chain Gate and Martello Tower. 185 
 
 Inside Citadel 188 
 
 St. John'sGate 
 
 Old Prescott Gate 
 
 St. John's Gate in Winter. 
 
 New St. Louis Gate 
 
 New Kent Gate 
 
 Old Hope Gate 
 
 The Death of Wolfe 190 
 
 Wolfe's New Monument 191 
 
 Old St. Louis Gate 192 
 
 Face of Citadel Cliff 194 
 
 Old Palace Gate 197 
 
 A Calficlie 198 
 
 Timber Rafts on St. Lawrence . . 204 
 On Lake Memphremagog. . . .209,212 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 Bon Secours Church 224 
 
 Place d'Armes 225 
 
 Montreal from the Mountain . . 226 
 
 In Jacques Cartier Square 229 
 
 New Methodist Church^ 231 
 
 Victoria Bridge, Montreal 233 
 
 Montreal Ice Palace 234 
 
 Inpide the Ice Palace 235 
 
 Obstacle Race on the Ice 236 
 
 Montreal Snow Shoe Club 233 
 
 Tobogganing on Mount Royal . . 239 
 
 Games on the River 240 
 
 Tail-piece 241 
 
 ONTARIO. 
 
 Niagara Falls 242 
 
 Parliament Buildings, Ottawa . . 244 
 
 City of Ottawa 246 
 
 Parliament Buildings 247 
 
 Departmental Buildings, E. Block 248 
 
 « (c vv. " 249 
 
 Post Office, Ottawa 250 
 
 Military College, Kingston 253 
 
 Twilight Amid the Thousand 
 
 Islands . 256 
 
 The Devil's Oven 257 
 
 Among the Isles 258 
 
 Nature's Carnival of Isles . . 259 
 
 Lighthouse in Thousand Islands. 260 
 
 Descending Lachine Rapids . . , . 266 
 
 PAOI 
 
 Raft in the Rapids 267 
 
 Running the Rapids 268 
 
 Tailpiece 271 
 
 TORONTO. 
 
 New Parliament Buildings 272 
 
 Toronto in 1834 273 
 
 Old Blockhouse 274 
 
 Toronto 275 
 
 Custom House, Toronto 276 
 
 OsgoodeHall 277 
 
 Metropolitan Methodist Church. 27S 
 
 St. James' Cathedral 27fi 
 
 St. Alban's Cathedral 280 
 
 Now Western Meth. Church. ... 281 
 
 Sherbourno St. Meth. Church . . 282 
 
 Exhibition Buildings 283 
 
 Horticultural Gardens 284 
 
 Government House 285 
 
 Exhibition Grounds 286 
 
 Toronto University 287 
 
 At High Park 288 
 
 Tailpiece 280 
 
 NIAGARA FRONTIER. 
 
 Governor Simcoe 290 
 
 St. Mark's Church 293 
 
 Interior St Mnrk's Church 294 
 
 Miss Rye's Orphanage 295 
 
 Fort ^lissiaauga, Niagara 296 
 
 W^ H. Howland's Residence, 
 
 Niagara Assembly 306 
 
 Sunny Bunk 307 
 
 Lansdowne Villa 308 
 
 View from Queenston Heights . 309 
 
 Brock's Monument 310 
 
 Below the Cantilever Bridge .... 311 
 
 Cantilever Bridge — Building Pier 312 
 
 Cantilever Bridge 313 
 
 Building Cantilever Bridge .... 314 
 
 " E. Pier. 315 
 Cantilever Bridge— Constructing 
 
 Overhang 316 
 
 Below the American Falls 317 
 
 Niagara Falls by Moonlight .... 318 
 
 Diagram of Lake Levels 319 
 
 Ferry Landing, Canadian Side.. 320 
 
 Falls of Niagara, " " .. 321 
 
 Niagara Falls in 1674 322 
 
LIST OF ENGRA VINGS. 
 
 xUI 
 
 325 
 
 PACE 
 
 Niagara River, Canadian Side . . 323 
 
 Horse Shoe Falls 324 
 
 Bridge to Luna Isle \ 
 
 The Cataract above Goat Isl'd. / 
 
 Prom Goat Island 326 
 
 The American Fall, Canadian 
 
 Side !.... 329 
 
 The American Fall 330 
 
 Old Terrapin Tower 331 
 
 The Bridge Leading to Bath and 
 
 Goat Island 332 
 
 Bird's-eye View of Falls. Cana- 
 dian Side 333 
 
 Beneath Canadian Falls 334 
 
 Icicles and Stalagmites 335 
 
 Winter Foliage, Goat Island. ... 336 
 
 Niagara in Winter 337 
 
 Suspension Bridge 338 
 
 Whirlpool, Niagara 339 
 
 Whirlpool Rapids 340 
 
 Grand Rapids of Niagara 341 
 
 SODTU-WESTEBN ONTARIO. 
 
 Sunday Morning in Ontario . . . . 
 
 On the Canal 
 
 Old Grist Mill 
 
 Grimsby Park 
 
 Victoria Terrace 
 
 Park Row 
 
 Vineyard at East Hamilton . . . . 
 
 Farm Scenery 
 
 Hamilton, Ontario. 
 
 On the Grand Rive; 
 
 Indian Village 
 
 London, Ontario 
 
 Canadian Homestead, Delaware. 
 
 Torpedoing Oil Well 
 
 Burning Well 
 
 Oil Tank on Fire 
 
 A Still Sequestered Nook 
 
 MCSKOKA. 
 
 Bits in M-. .* 370 
 
 Old Anchor, Holland Landing. 372 
 
 Grape Island, Simcoe 373 
 
 Falls of the Severn 374 
 
 On the Severn 375 
 
 Granite Notch 376 
 
 342 
 343 
 344 
 347 
 348 
 349 
 350 
 351 
 352 
 353 
 354 
 355 
 356 
 359 
 363 
 367 
 369 
 
 PACB 
 
 High Falls, Bracebridge 377 
 
 Sportsman's Paradise 378 
 
 Duck Shooting on Lake Kosseau 379 
 
 Making a Portage 380 
 
 Running a Rapid 381 
 
 Natural Bridge, Mackinac 383 
 
 Sault Ste. Marie 384 
 
 C. P. R. Bridge over Don Valley 386 
 
 On Charbot Lake 388 
 
 St. Lawrence Bridge 389 
 
 ON THE OTTAWA, ETC. 
 
 French-Canadian Village 390 
 
 Head Waters of the Ottawa 391 
 
 Saw Mill in the Woods 392 
 
 Typical Saw Mills 393 
 
 Part of Logging Camp 394 
 
 In the Pine Forest 395 
 
 Loading Logs 396 
 
 Loading Logs with Cant-hooks . . 397 
 
 Canadian Autumn 399 
 
 Drawing Logs on the Ice 400 
 
 A Log Jam 407 
 
 Breaking a Log Jam 408 
 
 Down at the Boom 412 
 
 Rafting at the Mattawa 411 
 
 In a C. P. R. Sleeping Car .... 413 
 
 Thunder Cape 418 
 
 McKay's Mountain 419' 
 
 Kakabeka Falls 420 
 
 Rat Portage 421 
 
 On Lake-of-the-Woods 422 
 
 MANITOBA AND NORTH-WEST 
 TERRITORY. 
 
 An Immigrant Train 424 
 
 Brealiiug up a Prairie Farm .... 426 
 Sulky Plouglis on Bell F.irin . . 428 
 
 Princess Louise Bridge \^\ 
 
 Winnipeg in 1872 432 
 
 Winnipeg in 1884 434 
 
 Old Fort Garry 437 
 
 Town Hall, Winnipeg 438 
 
 Homestead Farm, Kildonan .... 440 
 
 Red River Cart 441 
 
 On the Prairie 443 
 
 Brandon, Manitoba 444 
 
 Qu'Appelle Valley 448- 
 
xiv 
 
 LIST OF ENGRA VINGS. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Prairie I*loughing 449 
 
 Bell Farm, Indian Head Station. 450 
 Twenty-three Reapers at Work. 452 
 
 INDIAN SCENES. 
 
 Indian Medicine Man 454 
 
 Assiniboine Indian Half-breed . . 455 
 
 Squaw with Papoose 456 
 
 Indian Lad 456 
 
 Camping Scenes 457 
 
 Ualf-Breed and Huskio Dog .... 450 
 
 Old Time Trading Post 480 
 
 Hudson Bay Post 461 
 
 Hunter's Winter Camp 462 
 
 Shooting a Rapid 464 
 
 Making a Portage 465 
 
 Tracking a Canoe 466 
 
 Portage Landing 467 
 
 A Northern River 468 
 
 Fishing Through the Ice 469 
 
 . Indians Drying Buffalo Meat . . 471 
 
 Snow-bhoeing 472 
 
 Dog Train and Indian Runner . . 474 
 Rev. E. R. Young, in Winter 
 
 Costume 475 
 
 A Fight in Harness 476 
 
 Rev. H. B. Steinhauer 478 
 
 Camping Out in the North- West 480 
 
 War Dance in the Sky 481 
 
 The Giant of Lake Winnipeg . . 482 
 
 An Indian Village 484 
 
 Tepees of the Plain Indian .... 485 
 Indian Grave on the Plains .... 486 
 
 Rev. Geo. M. McDougall 487 
 
 Indian Missionary 488 
 
 Indian Type, with Eagle Head- 
 dress 490 
 
 Indian Type, with Bears' Claws 
 
 Necklace 491 
 
 Thayendinaga, Joseph Brant... . 492 
 
 Pawnee Chief in War Dress (93 
 
 Prairie Happy Family 495 
 
 Fowling in the Far West 497 
 
 Medicine Hat 498 
 
 Savagery v«. Civilization 601 
 
 IN THE BOCKIES. 
 
 Foothills of the Rookies 605 
 
 PAGB 
 
 The Rocky Mountains from Bow 
 
 River 606 
 
 Approaching the Rockies 507 
 
 At Canmore'' 508 
 
 Summit of the Rockies 509 
 
 On the Kicking Horse 610 
 
 Rocky Mountains from Canmore 613 
 Field Station and Mt. Stephen. . 516 
 Morning on the Mountains .... 516 
 Mount Stephen, near Summit . . 517 
 
 Beaver Lake 618 
 
 Silver City and Castle Mountain. 519 
 Surveyors' Camp 620 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 Beaver Foot Range 521 
 
 In the Heart of the Selkirks .... 523 
 
 Mountain Torrent 524 
 
 In the Selkirks — View near Gla- 
 cier House 625 
 
 Glacier of the Selkirks 526 
 
 Snow Sheds 527 
 
 Mirror Lake 523 
 
 In the lUicilliwaet 529 
 
 River Canyon 530 
 
 Wire Rope Ferry on the Colum- 
 bia 531 
 
 The Lower Columbia and Mount 
 
 Hood 632 
 
 Mount Hood P33 
 
 Salmon Wheel and Fisherman . . 634 
 
 Shuswap Lake 635 
 
 Near Kamloops 536 
 
 On the Thompson River 537 
 
 On Cariboo Creek 638 
 
 A Glacier 639 
 
 Tunnel on the Fraser 640 
 
 Another Tunnel \ ... 
 
 At the Cliff Foot J 
 
 The Old Cariboo Road 642 
 
 Before the Railway 543 
 
 On the Road to Cariboo Mines . , 544 
 
 Store at Leech River, B.C 546 
 
 Rattlesnake Grade, B.C 616 
 
 Yale, B.C 647 
 
 On the Lower Fraser 648 
 
 Rail v«. River 549 
 
 1 
 
LIST OF ENGRA VINGS. 
 
 XV 
 
 FACinC COAST. FACE 
 
 The Germ of Vancouver 551 
 
 Norwegian Barque 553 
 
 In the Gulf of Georgia 554 
 
 City of Victoria 555 
 
 The Olympian Range 557 
 
 Mount Baker, from Victoria 558 
 
 In Esquiniault Harbour 559 
 
 A Burden Bearer 560 
 
 Young China 561 
 
 Chinese Artists 562 
 
 Chinese Gentlemen 563 
 
 A Chinese Joss- House 565 
 
 The Little Bride S67 
 
 Indian Village and Totem Poles. 569 
 
 Indian Graves 570 
 
 On the Inland Passage 573 
 
 A Heavy Sea 574 
 
 Sunset on the Pacific 575 
 
 Nature's Monument 576 
 
 West Coast Indian Village 577 
 
 ALASKA, ETC. rAGB 
 
 Fir Forest, Alaska 579 
 
 Sitka, Alaska 681 
 
 Alaskan Cliffs 582 
 
 Thousand Islands, Sitka 584 
 
 Interior of Greek Church 586 
 
 Arctic Fjord in Winter 587 
 
 Typical Glacier 588 
 
 Among the Douglas' Pines .... 590 
 
 Hauling Saw Logs, B.C 591 
 
 A Log Team 594 
 
 Saw Mills in British Columbia . . 595 
 
 Chinese Barber 596 
 
 Yale, and Fraser Canyon 597 
 
 New Westminster, B.C 598 
 
 Mount Tacoma 599 
 
 Banff 600 
 
 On the Bow River 601 
 
 The Mountain Solitude 603 
 
 On the Head Waters of the Mat- 
 tawa 605 
 
I 
 
 ^7 
 
OUR OWN COUNTRY, 
 
 PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 -■■ • 
 
 UNTTRODUCTORT 
 
 THE Dominion of Canada comprises an area in round 
 numbers of 3,500,000 square miles. This is nearly 
 equal to the extent of the whole continent of Europe, and is 
 127,000 square miles greater than the whole of the United 
 States of America. It extends from east to west 3,500 miles, 
 and from south to north about 1,900 miles. A large proportion 
 of this vast territory is very fertile, while much of the uncul- 
 tivable portion abounds in mineral wealth. It has the largest 
 and best wheat-producing area in the world. Its forests pre- 
 sent the amplest supply of the finest timber yet remaining to 
 man. Its fisheries, both of the Atlantic and Pacific Coast, ex- 
 ceed in value those of any otlier country. Of this magnificent 
 national inheritance we purpose to give a concise description, 
 with copious pictorial illustrations. 
 
 Throughout the length and breadth of this great country the 
 present writer has travelled extensively — from the rocky ex- 
 tremity of Cape Breton, lashed with the Atlantic surges, to the 
 forest-crested heights of Vancouver Island, whence one sees the 
 sun go down in golden glory beneath the boundless-seeming 
 waters of the Pacific Ocean. Most of the descriptions which 
 follow are the result of personal experience and observation. 
 Where these sources fail, I draw upon the best available authori- 
 ties. I shall take the reader, who favours me with his attention, 
 freely into my confidence, and address him frankly in the first 
 

 18 
 
 EXTENT AND 
 
 person. It is hoped that a more familiar acquaintance with the 
 magnificent extent, and varied beauty, and almost boundless 
 resources of our country will foster among us a still more 
 ardent patriotism and devotion to its welfare. 
 
 D. Cameron, Esq., of Lucknovr, in the Canadian Methodist Magazine 
 for December, 1887, describes the extent and resources of the Dominion, as 
 follows : — 
 
 " B^ew realize from the mere quotations of figures the enormous extent 
 of our great country. For instance, Ontario is larger than Spain, nearly 
 as large as France, nearly as large as the great German Empire, as large as 
 Sweden, Denmark and Belgium, and larger than Italy, Switzerland, Den- 
 mark, Belgium, and Portugal. 
 
 "Quebec is as large as Norway, Holland, Portugal and Switzerland. 
 British Columbia is as large as France, Norway and Belgium. Nova Scotia 
 and New Brunswick are as large as Portugal and Denmark. Ontario and 
 Quebec are nearly as large as France, Italy, Portugal, Holland and Belgium. 
 
 "Canada is forty times as large as England, Wales and Scotland combined. 
 New South Wales contains an area of 309,175 square miles, and is liirger 
 than France, Italy and Sicily ; and yet Canada would make eleven countries 
 the size < >f New South Wales. British India is large enough to contain a 
 population of 250,000 millions ; and yet three British Indias could be 
 carved out of Canada, and still leave enough to make a Queensland and a 
 Victoria. Canada is sixteen times as large as the great German Empire, 
 with its twenty-seven provinces, and its overshadowing influence in Euro- 
 pean aflairs. 
 
 "These magnificent fresh-water seas of Canada, together with the majestic 
 St. Lawrence, form an unbroken water communication for 2,140 miles. 
 
 " Our fisheries are the richest in the world. The deep sea fisheries of 
 Canada, including those of Newfoundland, yielded in 1881 the enormous 
 product of 920,000,000, or about double the average value of the fisheries 
 of the United States, and neorly equal in value to^ the whole produce of 
 the British European fisheries. In 1885, the fisheries of Canada alone 
 yielded nearly $18,000,000. 
 
 " Our magnificent forests are of immense value, and contain no less than 
 sixty-nine different varieties of wood. In 1885, our exports of products of 
 the forest amounted to $21,000,000. 
 
 •* Our mines, which are yet in their infancy of development, give promise 
 of vast wealth. Coal in abundance is found in Nova Scotia, New Bruns- 
 wick, British Columbia and the North- West Territories. Our coal areas 
 are estimated at upwards of 100,000 square miles, not including areas 
 known, but as yet quite undeveloped, in the far North. Already coal areas 
 to the extent of 65,000 square miles have been discovered in the North- 
 West, while Nova Scotia and New Brunswick contain 18,000 square miles 
 
RESOURCES OF CANADA. 
 
 19 
 
 of this iinpnrtnnt element of wealth. Wheu it is remembered that the 
 entire coal area of Great Britain covers only 11,900 square miles, the ex- 
 tent of our resources in this direction will be apj>rcciated. 
 
 " Canada has also valuable mines of gold, silver, iron, lead, copper and 
 other metals. The gold mines of British Columbia have yielded during the 
 past twcnty-fivo years over $50,000,000 worth of the precious metal, wliile 
 Nova Scotia has, up to the present, produced nearly $8,000,000 worth. 
 Wo have upwards of 12,000 miles of railway in operation, representing the 
 enormous value of over $626,000,000. 
 
 " In 18G8 we had but 8,500 miles of electric telegraph. To-day we have 
 over 50,000 miles, besides an important and growing telephone service. 
 
 "Canada is the third maritime power of the world, being exceeded only 
 by Great Britiiin and the United States. 
 
 "The trade of Canada is assuming highly respectable proportions, and 
 gives further evidence of the energetic and Enterprising character of our 
 people, In 1868, the first year of Confederation, our total trade was 
 $131,000,000. In 1883 it had grown to $230,000,000, an increase of 
 $100,000,000, or an average of nearly $7,000,000 dollars a year. The Bank 
 of Montreal, a purely Canadian institution, is the largest, wealthiest, most 
 influential and widely-extended banking corporation in the world uncon- 
 nected with Government. 
 
 " Our public works especially evidence the pluck, energy and entcrprike 
 of tjie Canadian people. The Canadian Pacific Railway, that mighty trans- 
 continental line, recently completed from ocean to ocean, binding the scat- 
 tered parts of this vast Confederation together, is the longest railway in the 
 world, and is the most stupendous public enterprise ever undertaken and 
 successfully accomplished by a country of the population of this Dominion. 
 The Intercolonial Railway, connecting Quebec with the Maritime Provinces, 
 covers 890 miles, and cost over $40,000 000 ; while the Grand Trunk Rail- 
 way was, until the completion of the Canadian Pacific, the longest railway 
 in the world under one management, its total length being 3,300 miles. 
 
 " Canada has constructed twenty-three miles of canak at a cost of nearly 
 830,000,000." 
 
 •^•ffij 
 
HALIFAX. 
 
 21 
 
 :N^0YA SCOTIA. 
 
 WE will begin our survey of our noble national in- 
 heritance, with the sea-board province of Nova Scotia, 
 which stretches its deeply-indented peninsula far out into 
 the Atlantic, as if to be the first portion of the Dominion 
 to welcome visitors from the Old World. With the exception 
 of Prince Edward Island, it is the smallest of the Canadian 
 Provinces. Its entire length from Cape St., Mary to Cape 
 Canseau is 386 miles. It breadth varies from 50 to 104 miles. 
 Its area is 18,670 square miles. Its soil is generally fertile, and 
 its climate is favourable to agriculture. For fruits of the apple 
 family it is unsurpassed, and good grapes are often grown in 
 the open air. It was said by an old French writer that Aqadia 
 produced readily everything that grew in France, except the 
 olive. No country of its size in the world has more numerous 
 or more excellent harbours; and, except Great Britain, no 
 country has, in proportion to its population, so large a tonnage 
 of shipping. 
 
 HALIFAX. 
 
 Halifax, the capital of the province, occupies a commanding 
 position on one of the finest harbours in the world. It is the 
 chief naval station of Great Britain in the western hemisphere, 
 and here in landlocked security "all the navies of Europe" 
 might safely float. The city slopes majestically up from the 
 waterside to the citadel-crowned height of two hundred and 
 fifty feet, and around it sweeps the North-West Arm, a winding 
 inlet, bordered with elegant villas. The citadel was begun by 
 the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, and has been con- 
 tinually strengthened till it has become a fortress of the first 
 class. 
 
 On a glorious summer morning in August, 1887, 1 climbed the 
 citadel hill. Never was a more perfect day. Earth and sky 
 were new washed by a recent rain. The magnificent harbour 
 
22 
 
 THK CITADEL. 
 
 sparkled like sapphire. The nignal flagstaHk of the fort made 
 it look like a three-masted ship that had stranded on a lofty 
 hill-top. On every side sloped the smooth glacis, with the 
 quaint town clock in the foreground. Peaceful kino cropped 
 the herbage even to the edge of the deep moat, from whoso 
 inner side rose a massive wall, concealing huge earth-roofed 
 and sodded casemates within and presenting yawning embra- 
 sures above. 
 
 A garrulous old sailor with telescope beneath his arm 
 sauntered along. He kindly pointed out the chief objects of 
 interest — the many churches, the men-of-war and merchant 
 shipping ; on the opposite shore the pleasant* town of Dart- 
 mouth, the distant forts, George's Island, which lay like a toy 
 fort beneath the eye, carved and scarped and clothed with living 
 green, and farther off McNab's Island and the far-stretching 
 vista to the sea, just as shown in the engraving on page 20. 
 Mine ancient mariner had sailed out of Halifax as boy and 
 man for forty years, and was full of reminiscences. He pointed 
 out the tortuous channel by which the confederate cruiser 
 Tallahasse escaped to sea one dark night, despite a blockading 
 United States squadron. He said that the harbour was studded 
 with mine torpedoes which could blow any ship out of the 
 water ; and that a hostile vessel attempting to enter at night 
 would strike electric buoys which would so indicate her position 
 that the fire of all the forts could be concentrated upon her in 
 the dark. 
 
 Presently a crowd began to gather on the hillside, including 
 many old bronzed tars, red-jackets and artillery-men, and I 
 discovered that a grand regatta was to come off between the 
 yachts Dauntless and Galatea. The bay was full of sails 
 flitting to and fro, and like snowy sea-birds with wings aslant, 
 in the brisk breeze the contending yachts swept out to sea. 
 I thought what gallant fleets had ploughed these waves during 
 the hundred years that the harbour had been a great naval 
 rendezvous. It was a pretty sight to see the boat-drill of the 
 blue-jackets of the great sea-kraken Bellerophon, or "Billy 
 Ruffi,n," as mine ancient mariner called it — as they manoeuvred 
 around the huge flag-ship. 
 
PUBLIC GARDENS. 
 
 23 
 
 iluding 
 and I 
 en the 
 E sails 
 aslant, 
 .0 sea. 
 luring 
 naval 
 lof the 
 \BVLly 
 tuvred 
 
 Near the citadel hill are the public gardens, comprising 
 seventeen acres, beautifully laid out, with broad parterres and 
 floral designs. Nowhere else have I ever seen such good taste 
 and beautiful gardening, except, perhaps, at the royal pleasaunce 
 of Hampton Court. Certainly, I know no American public 
 gardens that will compare with the.se. The old gardener was 
 as proud of his work as a mother of her baV>e, and as fond of 
 hearing it praised. In the evening I attended a military concert 
 here. The scene was like fairyland. Festoons of coloured lights 
 illuminated the grounds and outlined every spar and rope of a 
 toy ship that floated on a tiny lake. On this lake a novel kind 
 of water fire- works were exhibited, and the orderly and well- 
 dressed throngs sauntered to and fro enjoying a ministry of 
 beauty that many larger cities might emulate. 
 
 Near the gardens is the new cemetery. The older burying 
 ground is of special interest. On some of the mossy slabs, beneath 
 the huge trees, I found inscriptions dating back a hundred 
 years. The monument of Welsford and Parker, Nova Scotian 
 heroes of the Crimean war, is finely conceived. A massive 
 arch supports a statue of a grim-looking lion — the very em- 
 bodiment of British defiance. Here is the common grave of 
 fourteen officers of the war-ships Chesapeake and Shannon, 
 which crept side by side into the harbour, reeking like a sham- 
 bles after a bloody sea-fight over seventy years ago. I observed 
 the graves of four generations of the honoured family of Haii- 
 burton. On a single stone were the names of eleven A. B. 
 sailors — victims of yellow fever. On some of the older slabs 
 symbolism was run mad. On one I noticed a very fat cherub, 
 a skull and cross-bones, an hour-glass and a garland of flowers. 
 
 Opposite this quiet God's acre is the quaint old brown stone 
 Government House, where Goyernor Ritchie, the honoured son 
 of an honoured sire, presides with dignity and grace. In the 
 Court House, near by, is a novel contrivance. The prisoner is 
 brought from the adjacent jail by a covered passage, and is 
 shot up into the dock on a slide trap, like a jack-in-a-box. The 
 Hospital and Asylums for the Blind and for the Poor, the latter 
 said to have cost $260,000, are fine specimens of ar'*' *^?cture, 
 as is also the New Dalhousie College. The new cit;, buildings 
 
24 
 
 DARTMOUTH. 
 
 \$:^ 
 
 1: 
 
 will be a magnificent structure. The old Parliament House 
 was considered, sixty years ago, the finest building in America, 
 It is still quite imposing. Dr. Allison, the accomplished Super- 
 intendent of Education, showed me in the library, what might 
 be called the Doomsday Book of Nova Scotia, with the register 
 of the names and taxable property of, among others, my grand- 
 father and grand-uncles, who were U. E. Loyalist refugees from 
 Virginia. 
 
 I was told a story of the Wesleyan Book-Room, which if 
 not true deserves to be. A Yankee book peddler seeing over 
 the door the word " Wesleyan," asked if Mr. Wesley was in, 
 " He has been dead nearly a hundred years," said the clerk. 
 " I beg pardon," replied the peddler, " I'm a stranger in these 
 parts." 
 
 Few cities in the world can present so noble a drive as that 
 through the beautiful Point Pleasant Park — on the one side the 
 many-twinkling smile of ocean, on the other a balm-breathing 
 forest and the quiet beauty of the winding North- West Arm. 
 At one point, in the old war times, a heavy iron chain wtus 
 stretched across this inlet to prevent the passage of hostile 
 vessels. 
 
 I crossed afterwards, in a golden sunset, to the pleasant town 
 of Dartmouth, with its snow-white houses and neat gardens. 
 The waters of the broad bay were flashing like a sea of glass 
 mingled with fire; and a few minutes later deepened into 
 crimson, as if the sinking sun had turned them into blood, as 
 did Moses the waters of the Nile. The return trip in the 
 darkealag twilight was very impressive. The huge hulks of 
 the warships loomed vaguely in the gathering gloom, while the 
 waves quivered with many a light from ship and shore — the 
 white blaze of the electric lamps contrasting with the ruddy 
 glow of the oil lanterns on the crowded shipping. 
 
 Halifax is in appearance and social tone probably the most 
 British city on the continent. Long association with the army 
 and navy have accomplished this. For a hundred years British 
 red-coats and blue-jackets thronged its streets. Princes and 
 dukes, admirals and generals, captains and colonels, held high 
 command and dispensed a graceful hospitality, royal salutes 
 
HISTORIC MEMORIES. 
 
 25 
 
 were fired from fort and fleet, yards were manned and gay 
 bunting fluttered in the breeze, drums beat and bugles blew 
 with a pomp and circumstance equalled not even at the for- 
 tress-city of Quebec. It is to a stranger somewhat amusing to 
 see the artillery -troopers striding about, with their legs wide 
 apart, their clanking spurs, their natty canes, and their tiny 
 caps perched on the very comer of their heads. 
 
 " One should have a sail on Bedford Basin," says one who 
 knew Halifax well, " that fair expanse of water — broad, deep, 
 blue, and beautiful. It was on the shore of this Basin that the 
 Duke of Kent had his residence, and the remains of the music 
 pavilion still stands on a height which overlooks the watei-. 
 The ' Prince's Lodge,' as it is called, may be visited during the 
 land drive to Bedford, but the place is sadly shorn of its former 
 glory ; and the railway, that destroyer of all sentiment, runs 
 directly through the grounds. It was a famous place in its 
 day, however, and the memory of the Queen's father will long 
 continue to be held in honour by the Halifax people." I saw 
 in the Parliamentary library a striking portrait of the Duke of 
 Kent, wonderfully like his daughter. Queen Victoria, in her 
 later years. 
 
 " Halifax has communication with all parts of the world, by 
 steamer and sailing vessel. Hither come the ocean steamships 
 with mails and passengers, and numbers of others which make 
 this a port to call on their way to and from other places. A 
 large trade is carried on with Europe, the United States, and 
 the West Indies, and from here, also, one may visit the fair 
 Bermudas, or' the rugged Newfoundland." 
 
 The early nistory of Halifax is one of romantic interest. 
 Nearly half a century had passed since the cession of Acadia to 
 Great Britain by the peace of Utrecht, yet not a step had been 
 taken towards settlement. An energetic movement was made 
 for the colonization of the country, under the auspices of the 
 Board of Trade and Plantations, of which Lord Halifax was 
 the President. On account of its magnificent harbour, one of 
 the finest in the world, Chebucto, or Halifax, as it was hence- 
 forth to be called, in honour of the chief projector of tiie enter- 
 prise, was selected as the site of the new settlement. In the 
 
!;i 
 
 26 
 
 ATLANTIC TELEGRAPH. 
 
 m i 
 
 jQonth of July, 1749, Governor Cornwallis, in H.M. ship 
 Sphynx, followed by a fleet of thirteen transports, conveying 
 nearly three thousand settlers, — disbanded soldiers, retired 
 officers, mechanics, labourers, and persons of various rank, — 
 reached Chebucto Bay. On a rising ground, overlooking the 
 noble bay, the woods were cleared and the streets of a town 
 laid out. In busy emulation, the whole company was soon at 
 work, and before winter three hundred log-houses were con- 
 structed, besides a fort, store-houses, and residence for the 
 Governor, — the whole surrounded by a palisade. 
 
 It has been since then the scene of many a gallant pageant, but 
 none of these, I think, were of greater moral significance than one 
 which I witnessed jnirty years ago. I happened to be ir. Halifax 
 when the steamship arrived with the first Atlantic submarine 
 telegraph cable. She was a rust-stained, grimy-looking craft, sea- 
 worn with a long and stormy voyage. But never gallant ship 
 received a warmer or a more well-deserved greeting. A double 
 royal salute was fired from fort and fleet, yards were manned and 
 many-coloured bunting fluttered, in honour of the greatest scien- 
 tific achievement of recent times. The first message transmitted 
 was one of peace on earth and good will to men an augury of 
 the blessed time wheii the whole world shall be knit together 
 in bonds of brotherhood. But alas ! the continuity of the cable 
 was in a short time interrupted, and the whispered voice be- 
 neath the sea from the Old World to the New for nearly ten 
 years was silent. To overcome the loss of faith in the scheme 
 and other obstacles to its completion, its daring projector, Cyrus 
 W. Field, crossed the Atlantic fifty times, and at last, like a new 
 Columbus, to use the words of John Bright, " moored the New 
 World alongside of the Old ;" or, to adopt the beautiful simile 
 of Dr. George Wilson, welded the marriage-ring which united 
 two hemispheres. 
 
 The accompanying cut gives a good idea of the handsome Hali- 
 fa.^ terminus of the Intercolonial Railway. Till the completion 
 of the Canadian Pacific this was our greatest national work. It 
 still is a system of incalculable value to the Maritime Provinces. 
 Before these great roads w ere completed, the Dominion was a 
 giant without bones. But these roads, extending neK,iiy four 
 
THE SHUBENACADIE. 
 
 27 
 
 thousand miles from the Atlantic to the Pacific, have given it a 
 backbone, a spinai cord, and a vital artery that will contri- 
 bute marvellously to its organic life and energy. 
 
 Intercolonial Railway Station, Halifax. 
 
 HALIFAX TO CAPE BRETON. 
 
 It was on a bright August day that I left Halifax for a run 
 through Eastern Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island. As 
 the train swept around Bedford Basin, magnificent vistas by 
 sea and land were obtained. As we advanced, the fair expanse 
 of Grand Lake, and the beautiful valley of the Shubenacadie, 
 gave variety to the scenery. The Shubenacadie is a large swift 
 stream, and was at one time regarded as the future highway of 
 commerce across the province. More than fifty years aero the 
 people of Halifax resolved to construct a canal connecting this 
 river with tide water at Dartmouth. Surveys were made and 
 a number of locks were built, the stone for which, I was told, 
 was all brought out ready hewn from Scotland — genuine 
 Aberdeen granite — though not a whit better than that on 
 the spot. But the canal was never built, and never will be. 
 

 28 
 
 TRURO. 
 
 
 The railway has more than filled its place, and the locks make 
 picturesque ruins and water-falls along the projected route of 
 the canal. 
 
 Colchester County, through v/hich we are now passing, 
 abounds in large tracts of rich intervale and excellent upland, 
 which makes the district a good one for the farmer — one of the 
 best in Nova Scotia. The pretty town of Truro, near the head 
 of Cobequid Bay, with its elegant villas, trim lawns and gar- 
 dens, and magnificent shade trees, presents a very attractive 
 appearance. The Provincial Normal and Model Schools are 
 noteworthy features of the place. The town is nearly sur- 
 rounded by an amphitheatre of gracefully rounded hills, and 
 on the west by the old diked meadows of the Acadian period. 
 
 On the Cobequid mountains, and on the upper waters of the 
 Stewiacke River, are found considerable numbers of Caribou 
 and Moose deer. There is also, for devotees of the rod, very 
 fine fishing in some of the picturesque streams. 
 
 The branch of the Intercolonial running cast from Truro 
 passes through one of the most extensive coal-fields of Nova 
 Scotia. It is said that there are no less than seventy-six fields 
 of coal, with an aggregate thickness of not less than 14,750 feet. 
 Stellarton is a populous village, dependent almost entirely on 
 the coal industry. New Glasgow is an important manufac- 
 turing and ship-building place, with extensive steel, iron and 
 glass works. The green hills by which it is surrounded con- 
 trast pleasantly with its somewhat grimy and smoky streets. 
 
 A short run by rail brings one down to Pictou Harbour, on 
 the opposite side of which, sloping gracefully up from the 
 water-side, is the old and wealthy town of Pictou, with about 
 4,000 inhabitants. Pictou has the honour of having given to 
 Canada two of its most distinguished men — Sir J. W. Dawson, 
 Principal of McGill University, Montreal, and the Rev. Dr. 
 Grant, Principal of Queen's University, Kingston. 
 
 For a considerable distance east of New Glasgow the country 
 is monotonous and uninteresting, though the glorious sunlight 
 glittering on the ever-restless aspens and the lichen-covered 
 rocks, brightens into beauty, what under a dull sky must be a 
 sufficiently dreary outlook. At length, in the distance loom up 
 
STRAIT OF CANSEAU. 
 
 29 
 
 the twin-towers of a huge cathedral, and the train draws up at 
 the pretty Catliolic village of Antigonish — the most picturesque 
 in eastern Nova Scotia. The scene at the station is like a bit 
 of Lower Canada — two nuns in a caleche, a couple of priests, a 
 group of seminary students. But the people are Scottish, not 
 French, Catholics. The cathedral is dedicated to the Scottish 
 Saint, Ninian, and on the facade is the Gaelic inscription, Tighe 
 Dhe — " the House of God." The Antigonish mountains, reach- 
 ing an altitude of a thousand feet, trend off northward in a 
 bold cape into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Tracadie is a small 
 French settlement on the railway, commanding a splendid view 
 of St. George's Bay and the Gulf. Here is a wealthy monas- 
 tery, belonging to the Trappists, the most severe of the monastic 
 orders. The monks, who are mostly from Belgium, add the 
 business of millers to their more spiritual functions. The 
 people belong to the old Acadian race, which gave such a 
 pathetic interest to this whole region. 
 
 The railway runs on to the strait of Canseau, amid pic- 
 turesque mountains, commanding magnificent views over .'.le 
 Gulf. This strait, the great highway between the Gulf of St. 
 Lawrence and the North Atlantic Coast, is some fourteen miles 
 in length and about a mile in width. It is of itself a picture 
 worth coming far to see, on account of its natural bea 'ty ; but 
 when on a summer's day hundreds of sail are passing through, 
 the scene is one to delight an artist's soul. On the Nova Scotia 
 side the land is high, and affords a glorious view both of the 
 strait and of the western section of Cape Breton. The pros- 
 pect both up and down the strait is pleasing in the extreme. 
 It is traversed, it is claimed, by more keels than any other 
 strait in the world, except that of Gibraltar. The steam 
 whistle at its entrance, which is blown constantly in foggy 
 weather, can be heard with the wind twenty miles, and in calm 
 weather fifteen miles. 
 
 From Port Mulgrave, the railway terminus, small steamers 
 convey tourists to Port Hood, in Cape Breton, and to the 
 flourishing town of Guysborough, on the mainland. 
 
30 
 
 BRAS DOR LAKES. 
 
 
 CAPE BRETON. 
 
 Before we visit Cape Breton let us glance for a m Dment at 
 its general characteristics. The island is so named from its 
 early discoveiy by the mariners of Breton, in France. It is 
 about one hundred miles long by eighty wide. The Sydney 
 coal fields are of peculiar richness, and cover 250 square miles. 
 The magnificent Bras d'Or Lakes are a great inlet of the sea, 
 ramifying through the centre of the island and bonlered by 
 bold and majestic hills, rising to, in places, a height of over 
 1,000 feet. The scenery is of surpassing loveliness. To 
 thread the intricate navigation by steamer is a delightful 
 experience. 
 
 The Great Bras d'Or is a channel from the sea of nearly 
 thirty miles — a continuous panorama of bold and majestic 
 scenery. The Little Bras d'Or is a narrow and river- like 
 passage through which the tides sweep rapidly, and where 
 the water-view is sometimes limited to a few score feet, so 
 tortuous is the channel. The surrounding hills are not more 
 than five or six hundred feet in height, but their pleasing lines, 
 and purple shadows, and reposeful beauty delight the eye and 
 rest the mind. Many of the inhabitants of the island are de- 
 scendants of the original Acadian settlers, and retain the French 
 language and the Roman Catholic religion. A larger propor- 
 tion of the population are of Highland Scottish origin, and 
 many of them still speak the Gaelic tongue. 
 
 The pleasure of visiting this delightful, but comparatively 
 little known, part of Canada we enjoyed under especially 
 favourable circumstances. Taking the good steamer Marion 
 at Port Mulgrave, we sailed down the strait in the brilliant 
 afternoon sunlight v/hich made the grassy shores gleam like 
 living emerald. We pa.s.sed through a winding channel., divid- 
 ing Cape Breton and Isle Madame. The latter was settled 
 a century ago by Acadian exiles, whose descendants now num- 
 ber 5,000. They are mostly bold and skilful fishermen. It is 
 a pleasant sight to see these sturdy fellows haul their boats 
 ashore, as shown in our engraving. The fishing villages, of 
 which the stables and out-houses — roofs and all — were white- 
 
ISLE MADAME. 
 
 81 
 
 washed, shone like the snowy tents of an army. One sturdy 
 peasant, who came down with his ox-team to the wharf, might 
 just have stepped out of a picture by Millet. I was struck 
 with the lonely little lighthouses which stud the channel, which 
 seemed the very acme of isolation. 
 
 A Fishing Villacie— Capk Breton. 
 
 Our steamer passed through the recently constructed St. 
 Peter's Canal, from the broad Atlantic to the secluded waters 
 of the Bras d'Or Lake. It was so solitary, so solemn in the 
 golden glow of sunset, that it seemed as if 
 
 " We were the first that ever burst 
 Into that silent sea." 
 
wm 
 
 32 
 
 rN£ ''GOLDEN ARM."" 
 
 \ 
 
 I will let the facile pen of Charles Dudley Warner describe 
 the pleasant scene: 
 
 " The Bras d'Or is the most beautiful salt-water lake I have ever seen, 
 and more beautiful than we had imagined a body of salt-water could be. 
 The water seeks out all the low places, and ramifies the interior, running 
 away into lovely bays and lagoons, leaving slender tongues of land and 
 picturesque islands, and bringing into the recesses of the land, to the re- 
 mote country farms and settlements the flavour of salt, and the fish 
 and mollusks of the briny sea. It has all the pleasantness of a fresh- 
 water lake, with all the advantages of a salt one. So indented is it, that I 
 am not sure but one would need, as we were informed, to ride 1000 miles 
 to go round it, following all its incursions into the land. The hills around 
 it are not more than 700 to 800 feet high, but they are high enough for 
 reposeful beauty, and offer everywhere pleasing lines." 
 
 As we sailed on over the enchanted lake the saffron sky 
 deepened slowly into gold and purple, and at length the 
 gathering shadows hid the shores from view, except where 
 the red light of Baddeck glimmered over the wave. I turned 
 in early, that I might be up by daylight to see the beauty of 
 the famous "'Golden Arm." With the first dawn I was awake, 
 and found the steamer threading a channel about a mile wide, 
 between the lofty St. Anne range and the highlands of Bou- 
 larderie. The farm-houses and fishermen's cottages seemed 
 absolutely insignificant beneath the lofty wood-crowned hills 
 behind them. Presently a lurid sunrise reddened the eastern 
 skjr and lit up the hill-tops, when I saw what seemed beacon 
 fires, kindling all along the shore. But I soon found that it 
 was the reflection of the level rays from the fishermen's win- 
 dows. So illusory did it seem, that I was almost certain that 
 they were camp-fires, till I found that they went out as rapidly 
 as they had been kindled, when the angle of reflection was 
 passed. 
 
 Soon we pass out of the channel into the ocean, exposed to 
 the broad sweep of the Atlantic, leaving the surf-beaten Bird- 
 rock, rising abruptly from the waves on the left, while to the 
 right stretch away the stately mountains of St. Anne's, culmin- 
 ating in the ever-cloud-capped headland, Smoky Cape. At 
 length we turn into a wide harbour, where we are told the 
 mines run far beneath the sea. The steamer stops first at 
 
 I 
 
 iJ:;l;i»- 
 
SYDNEY. 
 
 88 
 
 North Sydney — a busy coal-shipping port with a marine rail- 
 way, and the relay station of the American submarine Cable, 
 where all the ri'iws is transferred to the land- wires. About 
 thirty or forty operators, I was informed, were employed. 
 
 North Sydney, Shii'-Railway. 
 
 SYDNEY. 
 
 Seven miles further and we reach old Sydney — one of the 
 most delightfully quaint and curious old-fashioned places to be 
 found in America. On the high ridge are the remains of the 
 old Government Building. For be it known, Sydney was once 
 an independent province with a parliament of its own. But 
 its ancient grandeur is fading away. The shore is lined with 
 decaying wharfs, and broken-backed and sagging houses — 
 which seem as if they would slip into the water — with queer 
 little windows, and very small panes of glass. I saw at Oxford, 
 England, an old Saxon church, which looked less ancient than 
 the Roman Catholic chapel of this town. On the dilapidated ' 
 old court-house was the appropriate motto. Fiat Justitia. But 
 everything was not old. There were two new churches in 
 course of erection, a large and imposing academj', elegant 
 steam-heated houses, and a long and lofty coaling wharf, where 
 they could load a ship with 300 tons of coal, or 70 cars, in an 
 
34 
 
 QUAINT HOTEL. 
 
 hour, and where ocean-going steamers have received cargoes of 
 3,700 tons. 
 
 The hotel at which I stopped was very comfortable, or 
 would have been so, but for one or two slight drawbacks. A 
 chimney came up in the middle of my bedroom and took up 
 nearly all the space ; the water ewer was, I think, the smallest 
 I ever saw; the door was so warped that it would not shut; the 
 window was so low that I had to sit on the floor to look out 
 with comfort ; a pane of glass out, and I could not tell where 
 the wind came from, and the glass that was in was so twisted 
 and warped that it distorted everything outside in a very 
 absurd manner. For instance, a man passinj,' the window, as 
 seen through one pane, reminded one of Milton's description 
 of Satan as he sat " squat like a toad close at the ear of Eve." 
 As he passed the window bar he appeared to shoot up suddenly 
 into the stature of the tall archangel that erect walked in 
 Eden. Such glass is apt to be embarrassing ; it is hard to 
 recognize through it one's most intimate friends. But barring 
 these slight defects, the house was most comfortable. I was 
 surprised at the pleasant tinkle of a piano, and I have seldom 
 eaten more appetising meals, sweeter lamb, or more tender 
 vegetables ; and for all this the price was exceedingly modest. 
 Indeed, one of the advantages of touring in Cape Breton is that 
 one cannot spend very much monej', the prices of everything 
 are so very moderate. The weather one day happened to be 
 very wet, and everybody wore water-proof — even the houses 
 were shingled down their sides. Everywhere were boats, sails, 
 ropes, and even the out-houses were framed with ship's knees 
 timber. The hall was lighted from the sky like a ship's cabin ; 
 and looking seaward we beheld the stately square-rigged ships, 
 swaying swan-like in the breeze and preening their wings for 
 their ocean flight. Yet in this out of the way place I found on 
 the hotel table Principal Tulloch's Movements of Religious 
 Thought, a book by Dr. McCosh, a large embroidered picture 
 of the marriage of Mary Queen of Scots, with very wooden or 
 rather very woollen figures, and a rather florid portrait in oil 
 of Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 We have in Cape Breton a fine example of social stratifica- 
 
GAELIC LANGUAGE. 
 
 85 
 
 tion, a Scottish overlying an earlier French civilization. Many 
 of the older people speak only Gaelic, and the preaching is often 
 in that language. Among the guests at the hotel were two 
 brothers, both born on the island, one returning with his wife 
 from New Zealand — shrewd, keen, enterprising men, yet be- 
 traying their ancestral Gaelic by an occasional "whatefler" 
 and " moreolFer." Speaking of the Sunday morning's sermon, 
 one remarked to the other " Did you no think it the least bit 
 short, you know ? " — the first time I ever heard that complaint. 
 Yet out of the great route of travel as Sydney is, I found in 
 the register the names of travellers from New York, Boston, 
 Philadelphia, Chicago, Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Gait, Berlin, 
 Nanaimo, B.C. — the latter corae to study coal-mining, I judge. 
 
 I was glad to worship with the people called Methodists, and 
 to give them a few words of friendly greeting, as I had a few 
 months before greeted the Methodists on the Pacific Coast. I 
 know no other country in which one may travel 4,000 miles in 
 a straight line and find everywhere the ministers and members 
 of the same Church. 
 
 On a bright sunny Monday morning, with the Methodist 
 minister and a couple of good sailors, I went for a sail on the 
 beautiful Sydney harbour. We sailed and tacked far up 
 Crawley's Creek, a land-locked inlet of fairy loveliness, and 
 then returning tacked boldly up the bay against a brisk head- 
 wind. We raced along through the foaming water which 
 curled over the combings of the yacht, and every now and then, 
 with a lurch that brought my heart into my mouth, the yacht 
 encountered a wave that drenched me with the spray. I sup- 
 pose it was great fun, but for my part I was very glad to get 
 once more on terra firma. 
 
 I had the pleasure of callin*, before I left, on my friend Dr. 
 Bourinot, who was on a visit to his ancestral home — the charm- 
 ing mansion of his father, the late Senator Bourinot, who was 
 for many years French Consul in the port. The little tree-shaded 
 dock was kept with real man-of-war neatness. There used to be 
 almost always a French frigate on the station, and the military 
 music and stately etiquette gave quite an air of the olden time 
 to society. 
 
3G 
 
 LOU IS BURG 
 
 I found also time to vidit the relay house of the French huIh 
 marine Atlantic Cable. The officer in charge showed nio the 
 small mirror which is deflected to left or right by the interrup- 
 tions of an electric current. A beam of light is thrown from a 
 lamp on this oscillating mirror and thus the thoughts of men 
 are flashed beneath the sea at the rate of thirty-five words a 
 minute. It is very harrl to watch .steadily this beam of light. 
 If one even winks he may lose a word or two. The 'ear can 
 follow .sound better than the eye the light ; therefore this gen- 
 tleman is trying, with good promise of success, to u.se a "sounder" 
 instead of the mirror. 
 
 LOUISBURQ. 
 
 It wa.s a great disappointment that I was not able to visit 
 the old fortress of Louisburg. But the railway had ceased 
 to run trains, and in consequence of heavy rains the coach- 
 road was in a very bad condition. Our engraving, however, 
 accurately portrays the most salient feature that is left of the 
 most famous fortress in America. This once proud stronghold 
 is now a small hamlet of fishermen, who reap the harvest of 
 the sea on the stormy banks of Newfoundland. The construc- 
 tion of the " Dunkirk of Avnerica," as it was proudly called, 
 was begun by the French in 1720. During twenty years they 
 spent upon it 30,000,000 livres. It became a rendezvous of 
 privateers, who preyed upon the commerce of New England, 
 and was a standing menace to che British possessions. In 
 1744, Governor Shirley, of Massaclui setts, determined on its 
 capture. Four thousand colonii>l iiulitia were collected, and 
 William Pepperel, a merchant and miU^ia colonel of Maine, took 
 command. 
 
 The celebrated George Whitefield,, the eloquent Methodist 
 preacher, who was then in New England, was asked to furnish 
 a motto for the regimental flag, and gave the incription, 
 "Nil desperandum, Christo duce." Indeed, in the eyes of 
 the more zealous Puritans, the expedition possessed quite the 
 character of a crusade against the image-worship of the Catholic 
 faith. 
 
 On the 29th of April, 1745, a hundred vessels, large and small. 
 
 :i!!!iii'; 
 
Ai\D ITS MEMORIES, 
 
 87 
 
 among them a few ships of the royal navy, under Commodore 
 Warren, havin<^ been detained many days by tlie thiek-ril)l)ed 
 ice ort" Canseau, sailed into the capacious harbour of Louis- 
 bur<'. Tltis was one of tlio stronj^est fortresses in the worUl. 
 It was surrounded by a wall forty feet thick at the base, and 
 from twenty to thirty feet hifrh, and by a ditch eijjhty feet 
 wide. It mounted nearly two hundred <5uns, and had a gar- 
 rison of sixteen hundred men. The assailants had only eigh- 
 
 
 
 
 '::m^H^ 
 
 ^■•M. 
 
 
 « 
 
 • 
 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 iiw_;. 
 
 t ^^' 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 m 
 
 It- ■ .■' .'-^ ■ 
 
 IH 
 
 Ruins of Lopisburo. 
 
 k.^.-.-fti "^ji/gi •'-V.sf- i.i, ,, •;...^T%". 
 
 hodist 
 urnish 
 iption, 
 yres of 
 te the 
 tholic 
 
 teen cannon and three mortars. With a rush they charged 
 through the surf, and repulsed the French who lined the steep 
 and rugged shore. Dragging their guns through a marsh on 
 sledges, the English gained the rear ; the French in a panic 
 abandoned an outwork, spiking their cannon. 
 
 On the 21st of May trenches were opened; on the IGth of 
 June, Duchambon, the commandant, despairing of a successful 
 resistance, capitulated, and the New England militia marched 
 into the works. As they beheld their extent, they exclaimed 
 
38 
 
 CAPTURE AND 
 
 I! 
 
 " God alone has delivered this stronghold into our hand," and a 
 sermon of thanksgiving was preached in the French chapel. 
 A troop-ship with four hundred men and two valuable East 
 India-men were captured in the harbour. The garrison and 
 the inhabitants of the town, over four thousand in all, were 
 conveyed to Brest. The fall of the strongest fortress in America 
 before a little army of New England farmers and fishermen 
 caused the wildest delight at Boston and the deepest chagrin 
 at Versailles. 
 
 In 1755 it was again takon by the British. Early in June, 
 Admiral Boscawen, with thirty-seven ships of war, and one 
 hundred and twenty transports conveying 1 2,000 troops, ap- 
 peared off the harbour. For six days a rough sea, dashing in 
 heavy breakers on the iron coast, prevented debarkation, the 
 French meanwhile actively throwing up earthworks all along 
 the shore. Early on the seventh day, Wolfe, with a strong 
 force, gallantly landed through the surf, and seized the out- 
 works of the fort. The siege was vigorously pressed by day 
 and night for seven weeks. Madame Drucourt, the wife of 
 the Governor, inspired the garrison by her heroism. During 
 the bombardment, she often appeared among the soldiers on 
 the ramparts, and even fired the great guns, and encouraged 
 with rewards the most expert artillery men. With her own 
 hands, she dressed the wounds of the injured, and by the ex- 
 hibition of her own courage enbraved the hearts of the de- 
 fenders of the fort. Every effort, however, was in vain. The 
 walls crumbled rapidly under the heavy fire of the besiegers. 
 The resistance was brave but ineffectual. With all but two of 
 their vessels burned, captured or sunk, and when town and 
 fortress were well nigh demolished by shot and shell, Louisburg 
 capitulated. Its inhabitants were conveyed to France, and the 
 garrison and sailors, over five thousand in number, were sent 
 prisoners to England.* 
 
 As Halifax was a good naval station and well fortified, " it 
 was deemed inexpedient to maintain a costly garrison at Louis- 
 burg ; so sappers and miners were sent there in the summer of 
 1760, and in the short space of six months all the fortifications 
 
 ♦Withrow's History of Canada, p. 222, 
 
 
DESTRUCTION OF LOUISBURG. 
 
 88 
 
 !;■. -''.d 
 
 r own 
 
 and public buildings, which had cost France twenty-five years 
 of labour and a vast amount of money, were utterly demolished, 
 —the walls and glacis levelled into the ditch, — leaving, in fact, 
 nothing to mark their former situation but heaps of stones and 
 rubbish. All the artillery, ammunition, stores, implements, — 
 in short, everything of the slightest value, even 'he hewn stones 
 which had decorated the public buildings, were transported to 
 Halifax." 
 
 The fortress, constructed at such cost and assailed and de- 
 fended with such valour, thus fell into utter ruin. Where giant 
 navies rode and earth-shaking war achieved such vast exploits, 
 to-day the peaceful waters of the placid bay kiss the deserted 
 strand, and a small fishing hamlet and a few mouldering ruin- 
 mounds mark the grave of so much military pomp, and power, 
 and glor)'. 
 
 The project of making Louisburg the terminus of the Cana- 
 dian trans-continental railway system, the Cape Breton section 
 of which is now under construction, promises to restore much 
 of its former importance to this historic spot. It will shorten 
 the ocean travel to Europe by about a thousand miles, a con- 
 sideration of much importance in these days of rapid transit. 
 
 In retracing my way through the Big Bras d'Or, I had, 
 through the courtesy of Captain Burciisli, the opportunity of 
 studying the striking scenery from the elevated pilot-house. 
 The twilight shadows of deeper and deeper purple filled the 
 glens and mantled over the broad slopes till it became too dark 
 to See, and I turned to the less esthetic, but moi*^ practical, 
 rites of the supper-table. Here let me conin^end Steward 
 Mitchell, of the Marion, as one of the host of caterers. His 
 broiled mackerel were really a work of art. The steamer was 
 crowded, no berths were to be had, so the steward made up a 
 cot in the cabin and tucked me in my little bed just beroiO we 
 reached Baddeck. But the deck passengers were very noisy, and 
 I found it impossible to sleep — we had a lot of Italian railway 
 navvies, and Indians with their squaws — the latter carrying 
 bundles of birch bark to build their next wigwam. So I went 
 ashore at Baddeck and stopped over for the next boat. Every- 
 body in the town seemed to have come down to meet us by 
 
40 
 
 BAD DECK. 
 
 ! 
 
 lan^.plight. Baddeck (accent on the second syllable) has become 
 quite classical in its way since Charles Dudley Warner made 
 his famous pilgrimage hither : " Having attributed the quiet 
 of Baddeck on Sunday to religion," he says, " we did not know 
 to what to lay the quiet on Monday. But its peacefulness con- 
 tinued. Mere living is a kind of happiness, and the easy-going 
 traveller is satisfied with little to do and less to see." 
 
 But I found a good deal to see. The Dominion Customs 
 House and Post Office is one of the most elegant "Queen Anne" 
 structures I have anywhere seen. I visited the quaint old jail — 
 a low log building, more like a country school-house than any- 
 thing else but for the iron gratings on each window. The cells 
 were not cells, but good-sized rooms with a fire-place and wide 
 bed in each. A prisoner was lookin;^ cheerfully out of the 
 front window, taking advantage of the unwonted stir in tV :; 
 little town — for it was co\irt-day. To the court, therefore, I 
 went and found that I formed one-ninth of its constitution — 
 the others being the judge, clerk, tipstaff, defendant, lawyer, 
 and three spectators. 
 
 It was not very lively, so I went to visit the Indian village. 
 This I found much more interesting. The Indians were Mic- 
 macs, who are said to be of purer blood than any other tribe on 
 the Atlantic Coast. I visited several wigwams, but found their 
 inmates rather stolid and uncommunicative. One thing they 
 had of much interest. In several cases I got them to turn out 
 from their li+tle boxes in wMch they kept their few belong- 
 ings, their prayer-book and catechism, printed in arbitrary 
 characters invented for them by the Trappist monks. The 
 characters resemble a mixture of Greek and Russian with soni 
 cursive letters ; not nearly so simple as the Cree characters, in- 
 vented by the Rev. James Evans. The Indians could repd them 
 quite readily, especially the women ; but although they spoke 
 English fairly, they said they could not translate what they 
 read. The books were printed, as the German title page an- 
 nounced, at the Imperial printing establishment, in the Imperial 
 city of Vienna — in der Kaiserlichen stadt Wein in Oesterreich, 
 There was also a quaint picture of Christ — "the Way the 
 Truth, the Life" — Der Weg, die Wuhrheit, daa Leben. Their 
 
 m 
 
WH YCOCOMA GH. 
 
 41 
 
 religious training did not seem to have done much for the 
 civilization of these Indians, for they were squalid and filthy 
 in the extreme. Yet it is said, that once a year they all meet 
 at an appointed rende-^ous, and all the marriages and christen- 
 ings and other religious rites for the year are duly performed. 
 In the afternoon, on a tiny steamer, I sailed twenty miles up 
 the winding St. Patrick's Channel, to Whycocomagh. Mr. 
 Warner went by stage, and thus describes his adventures : 
 
 " Now we were two hundred feet above the water, on the hill-side skirt- 
 ing a point or following an indentjition ; and now we were diving into a 
 narrow valley, crossing a stream, or turning a sharp corner, but always 
 with the Bras d'Or in view, the afternoon sun shining on it, softening the 
 outlines of its embracing hills, casting a shadow from its wt)()ded islands. 
 The reader can conipaie the view an<' the ride to the Bay oi Najdes and 
 the Cornice Road ; we did nothir.g of the sort ; we held on to the seat, 
 prayed that the harness of the pony might not break, and ga\e constant 
 exi^ressibn to our wonder and delight." 
 
 It was a lovely sail between wooded heights, at the nari'ows 
 approaching so close that one could "toss a biscuit asliore." 
 When we got to the very end of the channel, what was my 
 surprise to see a good-sized vessel loading with cattle and .sheep 
 for St. John's, Newfoundland. Near the landing is a very tine 
 hill of rugged outline, some 800 feet high — Salt Mountain. 
 To this I betook me, and lounging on a couch of soft moss and 
 gr.i-ss, basking in the sunlight, enjoyed one of the grandest, 
 I •o'?)ocvS in the maritime provinces. The Great Bras d'Or Lake 
 AT V ,• v)rt id like a map beneath, an occasional vessel winging its 
 w^ay 1 ;ro.ss the placid surface; at my feet the little hamlet, 
 and wiiiaing afar amid the hills the ribbon-like coach-road 
 to Mabou and Port Hood. "This," I thcught, "is one of the 
 most sequ'.'stered spots in the Dominion." J had seldom felt so 
 isolated from every one I had ever kiiown. At this moment 
 I saw creeping over the brow of t!;v; hill a group of climbers, 
 the more adventurous spirits of a Sunday-.school picnic ; and 
 ^he leader of the band was a fellow-townsman of my own, a 
 '•'ung Congregational minister then in charge of the church at 
 !...J|.ck. 
 
 Not without an effort I tore myself away from the glorioua 
 
42 
 
 AN 'ULTIMA THULE} 
 
 view, as the sun gave his good-night kiss to the mountain's 
 brow, and made my way to the little village. To our mutual 
 surprise I was met by Stewart Mitchell, who the night before 
 had put me in my cot on the steamer Marion, and thought I 
 must be by this time two hundred miles away. His wife kept the 
 inn and he was home on a visit, and soon gave fresh evidence 
 of his culinary skill. In few places can a man, at the proper 
 season, do his marketing so easily as mine host can here. He 
 can go to the garden foot and gather a pailful of oysters, which 
 he fattens with oatmeal thrown upon the still water. He can 
 step into his boat and drop a line, and draw in the finest salmon. 
 He can stop on Li t- home, and gather ripe strawberries and 
 fresh vegetables tiv is garden — and this in daily view of 
 some of the loveliest scenery in the world. 
 
 I had enjoyed 
 my mountain- 
 climb so much that 
 I repeated it next 
 day ; but under 
 the noon-day glare 
 the prospect was 
 not nearly so oeau- 
 tiful as in the soft 
 afternoon light. A 
 row boat crossing 
 the harbour look- 
 ed in the distance 
 like one of those 
 water ants we of- 
 ten see. It was 
 very curious to 
 watch through a glass the steamer emerging out of space and 
 approaching the very mountain's base. I learned afterwards 
 that I was the subject of a discussion on board, as to whether 
 I was a sheep or a goat. When I rose from my mossy couch 
 and waved my handkerchief I suppose they decided that I was 
 neither. 
 
 Captain Burchell brought up his horse and carriage on the 
 
 :'.m/ii\,,/(. A, n 
 
 Pbimitive Post Offick, Cape Breton. 
 
PORT MULGRA v£. 
 
 48 
 
 steamer — as is often done in this primitive country — to give his 
 wife a drive over the mountains. He is a good example of a 
 Nova Scotian globe-trotter — or rather sea-farer. There are not, 
 I suppose, many great ports in the world which he has not 
 visited. He took his wife — a captain's daughter of Yarmouth, 
 N.S. — on a wedding trip from Bangor, Wales, to Singapore. 
 She has travelled farther and seen more than most ladies. 
 
 I took a charming five-miles walk out of Baddeck to climb 
 a lofty hill. The struggle between mountain glory and moun- 
 tain gloom, as a strong east wind rolled heavy masses of cloud 
 over the sun-lit landscape, was very impressive. The houses 
 seemed a spectral white against the sombre sky. I entered a 
 peasant's log-house for a glass of m'^^- ; the meagre furniture 
 was very primitive — a few home-maut benches and a cradle, 
 with a fire-place and a few iron and earthen pots. A kindly 
 Scotch lad gave me a ride in his waggon, and asked if I were 
 going to the "Sacrament," an ordinance soon to be administered, 
 which was awakening deep interest far and wide. Prof. Bell, the 
 American patentee of the telephone, has here an elegant villa. 
 
 That night I had the captain's cabin all to myself on the 
 MaHon, and next day arrived again at Port Mulgrave in a 
 steady rain that dimmed and blurred, past recognition, the glori- 
 ous landscape through which I had passed a few days before. 
 It did not depress the spirits, however, of a merry party of 
 American tourists homeward-bound. As one of them unfolded 
 his voluminous ticket with attached coupons, he congratulated 
 himself on the large amount of reading matter for the trip 
 which was thrown in free. Theii- witty talk kept the car full 
 of people in good humour, despite the dismal weather. 
 
 ■^v 
 

 44 
 
 EVjfNGELINKS COUNTRY. 
 
 Evangeline's country. 
 
 The road from Halifax to Windsor does not. to put it mildly, 
 take one through the finest part of Nova Scotia. I crossed the 
 country thirty years ago on one of the first trains that ran over 
 the newly opened railway, and anything wilder or more rugged 
 than the country through which we passed it would be hard to 
 imagine. Even now it is sufficiently rough, and if, as Dudley 
 Warner remarks, a man can live on rocks like a goat, it will 
 furnish a good living. Some pretty lakes, and pleasant valleys 
 and hamlets, relieve the monotony of the journey. 
 
 The old university town of Windsor, situated at the junction 
 of the Avon and the St. Croix, presents many attractive 
 features. If the tpurist arrives at low tide, he will agree with 
 the witty American writer who, with a pardonable vein of 
 exaggeration, says : " The Avon would have been a charming 
 stream, if there had been a drop of water in it ... I should 
 think that it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs 
 first one way and then another, and then vanishes altogether." 
 
 When the tide is up, however, the Avon is a very respectable- 
 sized stream, and the view, from the hill crowned with the old 
 block-houses and earth-works of Fort Edward, of the widening 
 river and distant basi^i of Minas, is very attractive ; but when 
 the tide is out, the banks of mud are stupendous. The two 
 places which the present writer sought out with especial 
 interest were the old-fashioned house of the witty Judge 
 Haliburton, author of " Sam Slick," and the plain buildings of 
 King's College, the oldest college in the Dominion, founded in 
 1787. The gypsum quarries are of much interest, and large 
 quantities of plaster of paris are exported. 
 
 We are now approaching the region invested with undying 
 interest by Longfellow's pathetic poem, " Evangeline." 
 
 The Acadian peasants, on the beautiful shores of the Bay of 
 Fundy, were a simple, virtuous, and prosperous community. 
 Their civil disputes, when any arose, which was rare, were all 
 settled by the kindly intervention of their priest, who also 
 made their wills and drew up their public acts. If wealth was 
 rare, poverty was unknown; for a feeling of brotherhood 
 anticipated the claims of want. Domestic happiness and public 
 
PRIESTS AND MIC MACS. 
 
 45 
 
 Judge 
 
 large 
 
 Bay of 
 unity, 
 ere all 
 o also 
 ih was 
 erhood 
 public 
 
 morality were fostered by early marriages ; and homely thrift 
 was rewarded by almost universal comfort. Such is the 
 delightful picture painted by the sympathetic pen of the Abbd 
 Raynal, — a picture that almost recalls the innocence and 
 happiness of the poets' fabled Golden Age. 
 
 With remarkable industry the Acadians reclaimed from the sea 
 by dikes many thousands of fertile acres, which produced 
 aijundant crops of grain and orchard fruits ; and on the sea 
 meadows, at one time, grazed as many as sixty thousand head 
 of cattle. The simple wants of the peasants were supplied by 
 domestic manufactures of wool or flax, or by importations from 
 Louisburg. So great was their attachment to the government 
 and institutions of their fatherland, that during the aggressions 
 of the English after their conquest of the country, a great part 
 of the population — some ten thousand, it has been said, although 
 the number is disputed — abandoned their homes and migrated 
 to that portion of Acadia still claimed by the French, or to 
 Cape Breton or Canada. Some seven thousand still remained 
 in the peninsula of Nova Scotia, but they claimed a political 
 neutrality, resolutely refusing to take the oath of allegiance to 
 the alien conquerors. "Better," said the priests to their 
 obedient flock, " surrender your meadows to the sea, and your 
 houses to the flames, than peril your souls by taking that 
 obnoxious oath." They were accused, and probably with only 
 too good reason, of intrigbing with their countrymen at 
 Louisburg, with resisting the English authority, and with 
 inciting and even leading the Indians to ravage the English 
 settlements. 
 
 The cruel Micmacs needed little instigation. They swooped 
 down on the little town of Dartmouth, opposite Halifax, and 
 within gun-shot of its forts, and reaped a rich harvest of 
 scalps and booty. The English prisoners they sometimes sold 
 at Louisburg for arms and ammunition. The Governor 
 asserted that pure compassion was the motive of this traffic, in 
 order to rescue the captives from massacre. He demanded, 
 however, an excessive ransom for their liberation. The Indians 
 were sometimes, or indeed generally it was asserted, led in 
 these murderous raids by French commanders. These violations 
 
 ^ 
 
46 
 
 EXPULSION OF THE ACADIANS. 
 
 i 4 
 
 of neutrality, however, were chiefly the work of a few turbulent 
 spirits. The moss of the Acadian peasants seem to have been 
 a peaceful and inoffensive people, although they naturally 
 sympathized with their countrymen. They were, however, 
 declared rebels and outlaws, and a council at Halifax, con- 
 founding the innocent with the guilty, decreed the expulsion of 
 the entire French population. 
 
 The decision was promptly carried out. Ships soon appeared 
 before the principal settlements in the Bay of Fundy. All the 
 
 Expulsion ;f the Acadians. 
 
 male inhabitants, over ten years of age, were summoned to 
 hear the King's command. At Grand Pr^, fcur hundred 
 assembled in the village church, when the British officer read 
 from the altar the decree of their exile. Resistance was im- 
 possible , armed soldiers guarded the door, and the men were 
 encaged in prison. On the fifth day they were marched at the 
 bayonet's point, amid the wailings of their relatives, on board 
 the transports. The women and children were shipped ir other 
 vessels. Families were scattered ; husbands and wives sepa- 
 rated — many never to meet again. It was three months later. 
 
 %. 
 
GRAND PRE. 
 
 47 
 
 kthe 
 f)oard 
 )ther 
 
 '■"is 
 
 in the bleak December, before the last were removed. 
 Hundreds of comfortable homesteads and well-filled barns were 
 ruthlessly given to the flames. A number, variously estimated 
 at from three to seven thousand, were dispersed along the 
 Atlantic seaboard from Maine to Georgia. Twelve hundred 
 were carried to South Carolina. A few planted a new Acadia 
 among their countrymen in Louisiana. Some tried to return to 
 their blackened hearths, coasting in open boats along the shore. 
 These were relentlessly intercepted when possible, and sent back 
 into hopeless exile. It is a page in our country's annals that is not 
 pleasant to contemplate, but we may not ignore the painful 
 facts. Every patriot must regret the stem military necessity 
 — if necessity there were — that compelled the inconceivable 
 suffering of so many innocent beings.* 
 
 The following pathetic lines describe the idyllic community, 
 and the consummation of this tragical event : 
 
 In Acadian land, on the shores of the basin of ^linas, 
 Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand-Pre 
 Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward, 
 Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. 
 Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labour incessant, 
 Shut out the turbulent tides ; but at stated seasons the floodgates 
 Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. 
 West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and cornfields 
 Spreading afar and unfenced o'er the plain, and away to the northward 
 Blomidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountains 
 Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic 
 Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended. 
 
 There, in the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian village. 
 Strongly-built were the houses, with frames of oak and of chestnut, 
 Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries. 
 Thatched were the roofs, with dormer-windows; and gables projecting 
 Over the basement below protected and shaded the doorway. 
 There, in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset 
 Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chinineys, 
 Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtlcs 
 Scarlet and blue and green, with distaffs spinning the golden 
 Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy shuttles within doors 
 Mingled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the 
 maidens. 
 
 * Withrow's History of Canada, p. 207. 
 
*R 
 
 GRAND PRE. 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 1j 1 M 
 
 IIS' 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 lll-iill 
 
 Solemnly down tho street cjinie the piirisli priest, and the children 
 Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them. 
 Reverend walked he among them ; and up rose matrons and maidens, 
 Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate welcome. 
 Then came the labourers homo from the field, and serenely the sun sank 
 Down to his rest, and twilight prevailed. Anon from the belfry 
 Softly tho Angelus sounded, and over the roofs of the village 
 Colunuis of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending. 
 Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. 
 
 Tlius dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers, — 
 Dwelt in tho love of God and of man. Alike were they free from 
 Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. 
 Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windows ; 
 But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners ; 
 There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance. 
 
 Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand-Pre, 
 When on the falling tide the freighted vessels departed. 
 Bearing a nation, with all its household goods, into exile, 
 Exile without an end, and without an example in story. 
 
 Far asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadians landed ; 
 Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the 
 
 north-east 
 Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the banks of Newfoundland. 
 Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered from city to city. 
 From the cold lakes of the North to the sultry Southern savannas, — 
 From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands where the Father of waters 
 Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ocean. 
 Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of the mammoth. 
 Friends they sought and homes ; and many despairing, heart-broken, 
 Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend nor a fireside. 
 Written their history stands on tablets of stone in the churchj'ards. 
 
 The Horton Railway Station is quite close to the site of the 
 old Acadian settlement. The scene is peculiarly impressive, 
 and not without a tinge of sadness. In front stretch the vast 
 diked meadows, through which winds in many a curve the 
 sluggish Gaspereaux. In the distance are seen the dark basaltic 
 cliffs of Cape Blomidon, rising to the height of five hundred and 
 seventy feet. In the foreground to the left, near a large willow 
 tree, are shown remains of the foundation of the old Acadian 
 church. A gentleman, living in Horton, informed me that there 
 were in the neighbourhood the traces of forty cellars of the 
 
GRAND PRE. 
 
 4» 
 
 Acadian people, also of an old mill, and old wells. A long row 
 of ancient willows shows the line of the old road. Now, my 
 informant assured me, there is not a single Frenchman in the 
 whole county. 
 
 :\ < 
 
 
 m''' 
 
 
 wi 
 
 K-iitii- "■■'■■■ *WMi," ' 
 
 
 The Acadians reclaimed the fertile marsh lands from the sweep 
 of the tides, by constructing dikes with much labour by means of 
 wattled stakes and earthen embankments. There were more 
 than two thousand acres of this reclaimed meadow at Grand 
 Fr^ and much more at other places. These areas have been much 
 
00 
 
 GRAND PRE. 
 
 extended from time to time, they form an inexhaustibly fertile 
 pasture and meadow land. 
 
 Mrs. Sarah D. Clark's musical verses, which follow, aum up 
 skilfully the touching associations of Grand Pr^ : 
 
 Grtind Pr^ ! whuso level inomluwH strutcli awiiy, 
 Fur up the deep-cut dikes thy waves roll on, 
 
 Free, as a hundred years ago to-day, 
 They climb the slopes of rocky Blomidon. 
 
 These lonely i)Oi)lars, reared by sons of toil, 
 
 Look out like exiles o'er a foreign sea, 
 Their haggard fronts grown gmy on alien soil, 
 
 Far from the i)rovince of fair Lombardy. 
 
 Long-vanished forms come thronging up the strand ; 
 
 I close my eyes to see the vision pass, 
 As one shuts out the daylight with his hand. 
 
 To view the pictures in a magic glass. 
 
 This is the little village famed of yore, 
 
 With meadows rich in flocks and plenteous grain, 
 
 Whose peasants knelt beside each vine-clad door, 
 As the sweet Angelus rose o'er the plain. 
 
 High-hearted, brave, of gentle Norman blood. 
 Their thrifty life a prospering fame did bring ; 
 
 They held the reins o'er peaceful field and flood, 
 Lords of their lands, and rivals of a king. 
 
 By kingly rule, an exile's lot they bore, 
 The poet's song reclaims their scattered fold ; 
 
 Blown in melodious notes to every shore, 
 The story of their mournful fate is told. 
 
 And to their annals linked while time shall last, 
 Two lovers from a shadowy realm are seen, 
 
 A fair, immortal picture of the past, 
 The forms of Gabriel and Evangeline. 
 
 And hither shall that sweet remembi-ance bring 
 Full many a pilgrim as the years roll on 
 
 While the lone bittern pauses on the wing, 
 Above the crest of rocky Blomidon. 
 
 Still over wave and meadow smile the day, 
 The twilight deepens, and the time is brief, 
 
 I bid farewell to beautiful Grand Pr^, 
 While yet on summer's heart bloom flower and leaf 
 
 ^12 1 
 
WOLFVILLE. 
 
 51 
 
 \ 
 
 I could not help being struck with the photographic fidelity 
 with which Longfellow describes the country. The long beard- 
 like nioHs on the pines suggests exactly the simile employed in 
 the followin<{ lines : 
 
 This ia the fcirest priinoval. The munmiring pines ftnd the hemlocks, 
 Boarded witli moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twiliglit, 
 SUuid like Druids of old, with voices sad and prophetic, 
 Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms. 
 Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighbouring ocean 
 Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest. 
 
 Three miles from Horton is the charming collegiate town of 
 Wolfville. Here I was most kindly met by Mr. J. W. Caldwell, 
 a gentleman who knew me only by report. Learning that 
 I was passing through the town, he intercepted me at the 
 station, insisted that I should stop over, carried m off' to his 
 house and showed me no end of kindness — a thorough speci- 
 men of Nova Scotia hospitality. From the roof of Acadia Col- 
 lege, a flourishing Baptist institution, beautifully situated, I 
 enjoyed a magnificent view over the storied scene which Long- 
 fellow has made " more sadly poetical than any other spot on 
 the western continent." My friend had apprised the Rev. Mr. 
 Friggens, the junior Methodist preacher on the Circuit, of my 
 expected arrival, and after dinner there he was with his horse 
 and carriage to give me a drive up the famous Gaspereaux 
 Valley and on to Horton and Grand Pr^. And a magnificent 
 drive it was. I have seen few things finer in my life than the 
 view from the lofty hill surmounting the valley, sweeping up and 
 down its winding slopes many a mile. We stopped for an hour 
 at Horton parsonage, the successor of a previous one on the 
 same site in which the Rev. Dr. Pope, the distinguished theolo- 
 gian was born. No one but a travelling Methodist preacher, I 
 think, could be made the recipient of so many kindnesses as 
 fell to mv lot. 
 
 Proceeding westward, the railway passes through the pictur- 
 esque Comwallis Valley, in frequent view of the dike-bordered 
 Cornwallis River. Kentville, the railway headquarters, is a pisas- 
 ant and thriving town. We are now entering what is known as 
 " the Garden of Nova Scotia" — the far-famed Annapolis valley. 
 
52 
 
 ANNAPOLIS. 
 
 
 It is a magnificent fanning region, especially adapted to the 
 growth of apples. It has been said that for fifty miles one may 
 drive through an almost continuous orchard. 
 
 ANNAPOLIS. 
 
 The town pf Annapolis, cr Annapolis Royal, to give it its 
 complete name, is full of historical interest. Save St. Augus- 
 tine, in Florida, it was the earliest permanent European settle- 
 ment in the New World. Its early history reads like a 
 romance. It was first colonized oy Baron Poutrincourt, in 
 1605. In 1628 it wpj captured by the British, aftervvr.rd sur- 
 rendered to the French, again captured by Sir William Phips, 
 and again surrendered. It was captured for the last time by the 
 Bi'itish in 1710, and ever since the Red Cross flag has waved 
 above the noble harbour, then named, in honour of the reign- 
 ing sovereign, Annapolis. 
 
 The point of central interest, in the ancient and historic 
 town of Annapolis, to which the tourist first makes 
 his wny, is the old dismantled fort. It is at the very 
 w^ater's edge and covers with its x'amparts and outworks 
 an area of twenty-eight acres. The extensive earthworks — 
 ramparts and curtains, bastions and demilunes — are softly 
 rounded by the gentle ministries of nature, and are covered 
 with turf of softest texture and greenest hue. An inner 
 fort, entered by an arched stone gateway, contains an ample 
 parade ground. At one side are built the quaint old English 
 woodeu baii/acks, still in good condition. They are sr.ru).ounted 
 by a steep wooden rojf with great chimney stacks. It is quite 
 unique among structures oi the kind in that, while containing 
 tiiiity-six rooms, each room, is the young girl who acted a^. my 
 guide informed mo,has a separate fireplace. In one of the bastions 
 is the magazine, with a vaulted roof of Caen stone, the keystone 
 bearini; the date 1707 — three years before its final capture by 
 the British. Near by are the ruins of the earlier French bar- 
 racks. An arched passage, now fallen in, led down to the old 
 French wharf, which is now a crumbling mass of blackened 
 stones mantled thickly with sea-weed. 
 
 The view from the north-west bastion is very beautiful, in- 
 
MEMORIES OF PORT ROYAL. 
 
 63 
 
 eluding the far-shining Annapolis basin amid its environment 
 of forest-clad hills, and the twin villages of Annapolis 
 and Granville Ferry. In the distance to the left is seen a long, 
 low, rambling farm-house, nearly two hundred years old, the 
 only one now remaining of the old French settlement. As I 
 looked upon the pleasant scene, I could not help thinking of the 
 time, well-nigh three hundred years ago, when De Monts and his 
 sturdy band of French pioneers first sailed up the lonely waters 
 of that placid bay and planted their little fort, the only habi- 
 tation of civilized men, on the outermost fringe of the vast 
 
 
 Ancient Archway, in oi.i> Fort, Annapolis. 
 
 wilderness stretching from Florida to the North Pole. Then 
 came memories of the poet pioneer, Lescarbot, fresh from the 
 gay salons of Paris, cheering the solitude of thi long and 
 dreary winters with his classic masques and pageant -, and organ- 
 izing " L'Ordre de Bon Temps " for festivity and good fellow- 
 ship, holding their daily banquets with feudal state around 
 their blazing fires. It wjis a strange picture, especially in 
 view of the subsequent suffering, disappointment and wrong 
 which visited the hapless colony. For Port Royal was the grave 
 of many hopes, and its early history was a perfect Iliad 
 of disaster. Strange that when there were only two or 
 three scattered groups of Spanish, French and English settlers 
 
54 
 
 " THE SPANISH LADY.'' 
 
 on the whole continent, each of which could scarce hold the 
 ground which it possessed, they could not desist from attack- 
 ing each other's settlements. In those early raids were begun 
 those long and bloody wars which afterwards devastated the 
 whole continent. 
 
 Before I came away I took a long draught from the cool 
 well, which had quenched the thirst of so many generations of 
 men. Then I turned into the quiet God's acre where " the 
 peaceful fathers of the hamlet sleep." Amid the tangled grass 
 and briars I tried to decipher some of the later inscriptions. I 
 noticed one of date 1763, and another of John Bernard Gilpin, 
 Esq., who died 1811, aged ninety-eight, also the epitaphs of his 
 son and grandson. Their crest was a very curious one — a boar, 
 with the legend "Dictis factisque simplex." On one lichen- 
 stained stone I I'ead this touching avowal of faith — "which 
 promise He for His part will most surely keep and perform." 
 Another stone bears this inscription, verbatim et literatim : 
 
 Stay friend stay nor let they bait prophane ' 
 The humble Stone that tells you life is vain. 
 Here lyes a youth in mouldering ruin lost 
 A blofsom nipt by Death's unkindly frost. 
 O then prepare to meet with him above 
 In realms of everlasting love. 
 
 My attention was called to the grave of "the Spanish lady"— ^ 
 Gregoria Remonia Antonia — who lives in local legend as a 
 light-of-love companion of the Duke of Wellington. When 
 the Iron Duke wished to sever the unblessed connection, says 
 the legend, she was sent to Annapolis, under military protec- 
 tion, and gnawed her heart out in this solitude. The tree- 
 shaded streets and the quaint old-fashioned houses and gardens 
 give the village a very sedate and reposeful look. 
 
 In the late afternoon I crossed in a row-boat to the Granville 
 side of the river, to climb the inviting-looking North Mountain. 
 It was surprising how fast the tide flowed up the long sloping 
 wharf at which I embarked. The view from the mountain 
 well repaid the climb. For miles and miles the Annapolis 
 basin and valley lay spread out like a map, showing, near by, 
 the meadows where the French flrst reaped their meagre crops 
 
PORT ROYAL. 
 
 55 
 
 of wheat. The windows, miles away, flashed like living car- 
 buncles in the level rays of the setting sun, then the purple 
 shadows filled the valley, and in the fading light the little 
 steamer came creeping slowly up the bay. On my way down 
 I met an ox-team conveying a fishing boat many miles over the 
 mountain, in a most primitive manner. I recrossed the ferry 
 by starlight and saw great Orion hunting his prey forever 
 through the sky, and I thought 
 
 *' How often, O how often, 
 In the years that have gone by," 
 
 the vanished generations had watched the sun set on sea and 
 shore, and had seen the stars shine on unchanged amid all 
 time's changefulness. 
 
 The following verses, by James Hannay, written ten years 
 ago, finely embody the stirring memories of Port Royal : 
 
 Fair is Port Royal river in the Acadian land ; 
 It Hows through vci"dant meadows, widespread on either hand ; 
 Through orchards and through comtields it gayly liolds its way. 
 And past the ancient ramparts, long fallen to decay. 
 
 Peace reigns within the valley, peace on the mountain 'de, 
 In liamlet and in cottjvge, and on Port Koyal's tide ; 
 In peace tlie ruddy farmer reaps from its fertile tields ; 
 In peace the lisher gathers the spoils its basin yields. 
 
 Yet this sweet vale has eclioed to many a warlike note ; 
 The strife-compelling bugle, the cannon's iron throat, 
 The wall-piece, and the musket have joined in chorus there. 
 To till v.ith horrid clangor the balmy morning air. 
 
 And many a galland war-fieet has, in the days gone by, 
 L)iin in that noble basin, and tiouted in the sky 
 A Hag witli haughty cliallenge to the now ruined hold, 
 Which reared its lofty ramparts in wai'like days of old. 
 
 And in the early springtime, when farmers plough their fields. 
 Full many a warlike weapon the peaceful furrow yields ; 
 The balls t)f mighty cjinnon crop from the fruitfql soil. 
 And many a rusted sword-blade, once red with martial toil. 
 
 Three hundred years save thirty have been and passed away 
 Since bold Champlain was wafted to fair Port lluyal Bay ; 
 
56 
 
 THE BA Y OF FUND V. 
 
 And there he built ft fortress, with palisadoes tall, 
 
 Well flanked by many a bastion, to guard its outward wall. 
 
 Here w.:3 the germ of Empire, the cradle of a state. 
 In future ages destined to stand among the great ; 
 Then hail to old Port lloyal ! although her ramparts fall, 
 Canadian towns shaU greet her the mother of them all. 
 
 U 
 
 
 ill 
 
 
 In the Bay of Fundt. 
 
THE ATLANTIC COAST. 
 
 57 
 
 From Annapolis one may sail direct to Boston or he may take 
 the steamer acrdss the Bay of Fundy to St. John. The most con- 
 spicuous features in sailing down the basin are the fishing 
 hamlets, each with its little wharf which at low tide seems to 
 be stranded high and dry far from the water's edge, and an occa- 
 sional tide mill. From this basin come those toothsome her- 
 rings known throughout the world as " Digby chickens." At 
 Digby, near the entrance to the basin, the huge wharf was so 
 out of repair that we had to drop anchor and transfer our 
 passengers to a scow — a work of no small difficulty in the tur- 
 bulent waves made by the meeting of the wind and tide. While 
 all was bright and sunny in the basin, the cold and clammy sea 
 fog lay in wait without, to wrap us in its damp embrace. I 
 once sailed from St. John to Windsor in so dense a fog that when 
 land loomed high and threatening through it the captain had 
 to send a boat ashore to find out where we were ; and all the 
 time the swirling tides were making eddies in the water which 
 threatened to drift us upon the rocks. Our engraving shows the 
 character of the bold and rugged scenery of the tide-swept bay. 
 
 THE ATLANTIC COAST. 
 
 From Digby, with its houses scattered over the windy downs, 
 like a flock of frightened sheep, one may go by rail to Yar- 
 mouth, the extreme south-west point of Nova Scotia. My own 
 visit to Yarmouth was made by steamer from Halifax. It was 
 an experience never to be forgotten. The route follows an 
 iron-bound coast of bold and rugged front, which has been the 
 scene of numerous shipwrecks. The deep fiords, rocky ledges 
 and unending pine forests resemble the coast of Norway, but 
 without the mountain heights. In the beautiful Mahone Bay 
 is the quaint German town of Lunenburg, settled a hundred and 
 forty years ago by German religious refugees. They still 
 retain their German language and customs and Lutheran mode 
 of worship. They have adopted the thrifty Nova Scotia prac- 
 tice of seafaring, and carry on a lucrative trade with the West 
 Indies. Liverpool is another thriving town of over three 
 thousand inhabitants. Shelboume, an active ship-building town, 
 has a romantic history. At the close of the revolutionary war 
 
68 
 
 FOG BOUND. 
 
 in 1783, a large number of U. E. Loyalist refugees from the 
 United States settled here, with the hope of creating a great 
 city on this magnificent harbour. Within a year the popula- 
 tion numbered twelve thousand, of whom twelve hundred were 
 Negro slaves. It quite ran ahead of Halifax, and it was 
 seriously proposed to remove thither the seat of Government. 
 But it was soon found that there was no back country to sup- 
 port the town, and the high-toned inhabitants would not engage 
 in the fisheries. So, after $2,500,000 was expended in two years, 
 the attempt was abandoned and the population soon dwindled 
 to about four hundred. 
 
 We next pass Port La Tour, with its heroic memories of 
 Madame La Tour. Cape Sable, at the extreme southern angle 
 of the peninsula, is the terror of the mariners. Here the S. S. 
 HungaHan was wrecked with great loss of life. Rounding 
 this angle and passing Barrington Bay, the steamer in fair 
 weather can thread the kaleidoscopic mazes of the Tusket 
 Islands. These, while having almost the intricacy of the 
 Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, lie quite out at sea, 
 and through them sweep the swift and swirling tides. On 
 the occasion of my own visit to Yarmouth the weather was 
 dismally foggy, we therefore had to give those dangerous 
 islands a wide berth. As we approached by dead reckoning the 
 vicinity of Yarmouth the precautions were redoubled. The 
 lead was heaved. The log was cast. The whistle blew and the 
 small cannon on deck was frequently fired. But only dull cloud 
 echoes were returned. At length, while listening intently for 
 any sound that might give indication of our whereabouts, the 
 hoarse roar of the surf, lashing \^ith ceaseless rage the rocky 
 shore, was heard. Soon the fog lifted a little, and a white line 
 of breakers was seen on almost every side. When the familiar 
 landmarks were recognized, it was found that we were almost 
 at the entrance of the harbour. 
 
 Yarmouth is one of the most enterprising towns in the 
 Province, and for its size, it is claimed, the greatest ship-owning 
 port in the world. Its population in 1887 was 7,000. Its 
 shipmasters owned twelve steamers, fifty-two ships, forty -three 
 barques, eleven brigs and one hundred and nine schooners, 
 
YARMOUTH. 
 
 59 
 
 an aggregate of two hundred and twenty-seven vessels, with a 
 carrying capacity of 120,394 tons — a record of which any 
 country might be proud. Almost alone it has constructed 
 the Western Counties' Railway to Annapolis. Its schools, 
 banks, churches and public institutions are of conspicuous 
 excellence. 
 
 Along this rugged coast that we have been describing, that 
 heroic pioneer explorer, Champlaiu, with his companions in 
 their puny vessels sailed, exploring every bay and island, as 
 well as the New England shore. Champlain has left us a 
 minute and accurate account of the country, its products and 
 people, illustrated with quaint drawings by his own hand. 
 
 This south-western part of the peninsula, especially the 
 Tusket Lakes, and the vast forests in the vicinity, is a very 
 paradise of sportsmen. Salmon streams, with pictiiresque water- 
 falls, abound, and the country is still the home of the moose 
 and cariboo deer, and the Government is taking proper precau- 
 tions to prevent their extermination. 
 
 An old moose-hunter thus discourses on this noble sport : 
 "There are three modes of hunting the moose, termed still- 
 hunting, fire-hunting, and calling. There was another mode 
 which legislation has in a great measure suppressed, viz.: the 
 wholesale slaughter of the unfortunate animals when the deep- 
 lying snows of a protracted winter had imprisoned them in their 
 ya :, and rendered them only a too easy prey to the un- 
 principled butchers who slew them for their skins. 
 
 "To be successful in still-hunting, or creeping upon the 
 moose, necessitates the aid of a skilful Indian guide ; very few, 
 if any, white men ever attain the marvellous precision with 
 which an Indian, to whom the pathless forest is an open book 
 which he reads as he runs, will track to its death an animal so 
 exceedingly sensitive to the approach of man. This gift, or 
 instinct, seems born with the Indian, and is practised from his 
 early childhood. 
 
 "The finely modulated voice of the Indian is especially 
 adapted to imitate the different calls and cries of the denizens 
 of the forest, and with a trumpet of birch bark, he will imitate 
 to the life the plaintive low of the cow-moose and the re- 
 
60 
 
 SALMON STREAMS, 
 
 sponsive bellow of the bull. Early morning, twilight, or moon- 
 light are all favourable to this manner of hunting. The 
 
 Indian, having selected a favourable position for his purpose, 
 generally on the margin of u lake, heath, or bog, where he can 
 
MOOSE HUNTING. 
 
 61 
 
 readily conceal himself, puts his birch trumpet to his mouth, 
 and gives the call of the cow-moose, in a manner so ^;fi-.rtling 
 and truthful that only the educated ear of an Indian could 
 detect the counterfeit. If the call is successful, presently the 
 responsive bull-moose is heard crashing through the forest, 
 uttering his blood-curdling bellow or roar, and rattling his 
 horns against the trees in challenge to all rivals, as he comes 
 to the death which awaits him. Should the imitation be poor, 
 the bull will either not respond at all, or approach in a stealthy 
 manner and retire on discovery of the cheat. Moose-calling is 
 seldom attempted by white men, the gift of calling with success 
 being rare even among the Indians. 
 
 "Fire-hunting, or hunting by torchlight, is practised by 
 exhibiting a bright light formed by burning bunches of birch 
 bark, in places known to be frequented by moose. The 
 brilliant light seems to fascinate the animals, and he will readily 
 approach within range of the rifle. The torch placed in the 
 bow of a canoe is also used as a lure on a lake or river, but is 
 attended with considerable danger, as a wounded or enraged 
 moose will not unfrequently upset the canoe. 
 
 " The mode of hunting which generally prevails is that of 
 still-hunting, or creeping upon the moose, which is undoubtedly 
 the most sportsman-like way. Still-hunting can be practised 
 in September, and all through the early winter months, until 
 the snow becomes so deep that it would be a sin to molest the 
 poor animals. The months of September and October are 
 charming months for camping out, and the moose then are in 
 fine condition, and great skill and endurance are called for on 
 the part of the hunter. The moose possesses a vast amount of 
 pluck, and when once started on his long, swinging trot, his 
 legs seem tireless, and he will stride over boulders and wind- 
 falls at a pace which soon distances his pursuers, and, but for 
 the sagacity of the Indian guide in picking out the trail, would 
 almost always escape. 
 
 " The largest moose that 1 ever saw measured six feet and 
 nearly five inches at the withers, and from the withers to the 
 top of the skull, twenty-seven inches. The head measured two 
 feet and five inches from the moufiie to a point between the 
 
'm^i 
 
 Mm 
 
 62 
 
 MOOSE HUNTIXG. 
 
 ears, iin<l nine inches between the eyes. The horns weighed 
 forty-tive pounds, and measured four feet and three inches 
 from tine to tine at their widest part, and at the greatest 
 width the palniated parts measured tliirteen inches. The horn, 
 at its junction with the skull, was eight inclies in circumference. 
 The great lengtli of his legs and prehensile lip are of much 
 benefit to the moose, and wonderfully adapted for his mode 
 of feeding, wliich consists in peeling the bark from, and 
 browsing upon, the branches and tender shoots of deciduous 
 trees. When the branches or tops of trees are beyond his 
 reach, he resorts to the process termed by huntei's ' riding down 
 the tree,' by getting astride of it and bearing it down by the. 
 weight of his body until the coveted bi'anches are within his 
 reach. 
 
 " The senses of .smelling and hearing are very acute, his long 
 ears are ever moving to and fro, intent to catch the. slightest 
 sound, ind his wonderfully constructed nose carries the signal 
 of danger to his brain, long before the unwary hunter has 
 the slightest idea that his presence is .suspected. When 
 alarmed, this ponderous animal moves away with the silence 
 of death, carefully avoiding all obstructions, and selecting the 
 moss-carpeted bogs and swales, through which he threads his 
 way with a persistence that often sets at defiance all the arts 
 and endurance of even the practised Indian hunter" 
 
 The fine engraving which accompanies this article gives a 
 graphic view of some of the magnificent moose and caribou 
 deer of the forests of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and British 
 Columbia. The broad snow-shoes and the toboggan-like sleigh 
 will be observed, also the big ass-like ears, and broad heavy 
 horns of the gigantic moose ; and the more slender and 
 branching horns of the caribou deer. The favourite time of 
 hunting them is in the deep snow of winter, when the hunter 
 on his snow-shoes can skim over the .surface while the moose 
 breaks through. The moose has a habit of treading down the 
 snow wivhin a certain area, called a moose-yard, till he has 
 eaten all the tender shoots of the trees, and then he moves on 
 to fresh fields and pastures new. 
 
 Forty miles f rom Yai'mouth is the old French "Clare Settle- 
 
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 i| 
 
 
 f^ 
 
 
 f^'-'^H 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■ ^ 
 
 5'1 
 
 MLl; 
 
 ifl 
 
 
lonof 
 
 arts 
 
ACADIAN SETTLEMENT. 
 
 63 
 
 ment." After tho conijuest of Caimrla, th. Acadian exiles were 
 permitted to return to their native lan<l, but finding their 
 former homes on the basin of Minas occupied by the English, 
 a number settled on St. Mary's Bay. They [^n ow eventually to 
 a community of four or five thousand souls. They preserve 
 their own language and usages, and form probably the most 
 considerable Acadian settlement extant, the next being those 
 Louisiana Acadians of whom fable discourses so pleasantly. 
 
 Still sbindH tlie forest primeval ; hut under the shade of its branchuB 
 
 Po'ells another race, with other customs and language. 
 
 Only along the shores of the mournful and misty Atlantic 
 
 Linger a few Acadian peasants, whose fathers from exile 
 
 Wandered back to their native land to die in its bosom. 
 
 In the fisherman's cot the wheel and the loom are still busy ; 
 
 Maidens still wear their Norman caps and their kirtles of homespun, 
 
 And by the evening fire repeat Evangeline's story, 
 
 While fiom its rocky caverns the deep-voiced, neighbouring ocean 
 
 Spt-akH, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest. 
 
 TRURO TO AMHERST. 
 
 I have left undescribed that part of Nova Scotia between 
 Truro and Amherst ; I therefore return to briefly recount its 
 more striking features. 
 
 I arrived at Truro Junction in a pouring rain, and was in 
 doubt whether to go on by the night train, or to stop over in 
 liope of having fairer weather to visit Fort Cumberland and 
 Sackville. I sallied out therefore to look for a barometer. I 
 found one in a doctor's office, and, though it was still pouring, 
 as the top of the column of mercury was somewhat convex, I 
 concluded to stay. Next day it was still raining heavily, but 
 my faith in science was confirmed by the fine weather signal on 
 the train. Sure enough, in an hour or two we came out of the 
 rain belt, and had bright .sunshine. 
 
 The railroad for some distance west of Truro traverses the 
 Cobequid Mountains, low rounded hills about a thousand feet 
 high. The scenery is picturesque, and the outlook over the 
 vast Wallace Valley is extremely grand and impressive. At the 
 Folly River is a substantial viaduct, six hundred feet long 
 and eighty-two feet high, and many deep cuttings give evidence 
 of the labour expended in the construction of the road. 
 
:''";t 
 
 
 'M 
 
 
 64 
 
 AMHERST. 
 
 At Springhill station one may take the Cumberland Railway 
 to Parrsboro', one of the most charming suminer resorts of Nova 
 
 Scotia. A few miles farther on, the main line brings one ta 
 Jhe pleasant town of Amherst. lis prevailing aspect is one of 
 
TIDAL STREAMS, 
 
 65 
 
 neatness and tluii't, and there are evidences of large manu- 
 facturing industries. Nearly every window seemed tilled with 
 flowers, even those of the Roman Catholic church. The 
 Methodist church is a verj' handsome one, the best in the place* 
 
 As it was a lovely day, I walked from Amherst to Sackville, 
 a distance of ten or eleven miles, stopping to explore the ruins 
 of Fort Lawrence and Fort Cumberland, formerly Fort Beau- 
 bassin and Fort Beausojour, on the way. These grass-grown 
 ramparts, on the opposite sides of the Missiguash River, are 
 among the latest relies of tlie long conflict between France and 
 England for the Province of Acadia. They were constructed 
 at this narrowest part of the isthmus connecting Nova Scotia 
 anil the main land, and \v'ere the scene of much hard fighting. 
 It was a pleasant walk through a Ruysdael-like landscape — vast 
 meadows reclaimed from the sea, and protected by miles on 
 milss of dikes, constructed with enormous labour, to keep out 
 the tides. The outline of Fort Lawrence can with difficulty be 
 traced amid the fields ix\\i\ neat white buildings of a comfortable 
 farmstead. Three miles distant rise the cleai*-cut outlines of 
 Fort Cumberland — Beausojour, as the French called it — crown- 
 ing a somewhat bold eminence. Here for long yeai\s these forts 
 frowned defiance at each other, and not .seldom exchanged 
 salutes, not of friendship, but of deadly hate. I walked across 
 the intervening vulley on the Intercolonial Railway, whose iron 
 bridge spans the JVIissiguash, now, as then, the boundary line. 
 
 The.se tidal rivers have the habit of changing their direction in 
 an extraordinary manner. When the tide is rising it rushes 
 violently up stream in a turbulent flood, sometimes accompanied 
 by a great "bore" or rolling wave, five or six feet high. At 
 low water a languid, slimy stream crawls sluggishly between 
 its muddy banks. You will often see good-sized vessels stranded 
 among the orchard trees, »xnd leaning at all angles in their oozy 
 bed. But this very marsh mud, when diked and cultivated, 
 produces with apparently exhaustless fertility the richest crops. 
 '■ Man scarcely begins to realize such productions of nature," 
 says Mr. C. Murphy, " until he considers the practicability of 
 utilizing them. The early settlers were not slow in recognizing 
 the value of these marshes, and the feasibility of their acqui- 
 
66 
 
 TIDAL STREAMS. 
 
 sition by diking them. The currents, too, are considered, 
 studied and applied by the mariner, and made to subserve his 
 purpose in bearing him rapidly along with more unerring pre- 
 cision than the no less phenomenal trade winds. 
 
 " The fisherman also profits by the great height of the tide 
 which, during the flood, comes with its large shoals of such fish 
 as resort to the coast. These remain to feed until the return 
 or ebb tide falls somewhat, and are trapped within weirs of 
 wattles, that are made to run out past their line of retreat. 
 Large quantities of herring, cod and shad thus left dry at low 
 water, are carted to the smoke-houses, prepared and packed in 
 small cases and forwarded to the difierent markets." 
 
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 
 
 67 
 
 PEIiN'CE EDWAED ISLAND. 
 
 BEFORE I cross the Missiguash river, the boundary line 
 between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, I must turn 
 for a few pages to the sister province of Prince Edward Island. 
 It is difficult to treat, systematically, the several provinces of 
 our vast Dominion, without certain interruptions of the con- 
 tinuity of the narrative. But it will be more convenient, 
 before we turn westward, to describe the islands of the Lower 
 Gulf, including also the great island of Newfoundland. 
 
 Prince Edward Island is the smallest of the Canadian Prov- 
 inces, embracing an area of only 2,133 square miles. But 
 what it lacks in extent it largely makes up in fertility. The 
 island is one hundred and thirty miles long, with an extreme 
 breadth of thirty-four miles ; but its much-indented shore gives 
 it a great extent cf coast line. The surface is low and undu- 
 lating ; the air soft and balmy, and much milder and less 
 foggy than the adjacent mainland. The scenery, while not 
 bold or striking, is marked by a rural picturesqueness, and is 
 often lighted by shimmering reaches of salt-water lagoons, 
 and far-stretching bays, clear and blue as those of the Medi- 
 terranean. 
 
 Prince Edward Island, known till 1798 as St. John's Island, 
 is supposed to have been discovered by Cabot in one of his 
 early voyages. For over two centuries it remained uncolo- 
 nized, save as a French fishing-station. When Acadia and New- 
 foundland were ceded to England by the treaty of Utrecht, 
 many of the French inhabitants removed to the fertile island 
 of St. John. This population was still further increased, on 
 the expulsion of the Acadians in 1765, by fugitives from that 
 stern edict. By the treaty of 1703, St. John's Island, with the 
 whole of Canada and Cape Breton, passed into the possession 
 

 68 
 
 /CE FERRY, 
 
 of the British. It continued to form part of the extensive 
 province of Nova Scotia till 1770. It was surveyed by Captain 
 Holland, and reported to contain 365,400 acres of land, all but 
 10,000 of which was fit for agriculture. 
 
 In 1798, the name of the colony was changed, out of compli- 
 ment to Edward, Duke of Kent — afterwards father of Queen 
 Victoria — to Prince Edward Island. Among the most ener- 
 getic proprietors was the Earl of Selkirk, the founder of the 
 Red River Settlement, to be hereafter described. During the 
 early years of the century, he transferred not less than 4,000 
 hardy Highlanders, from his Scottish estates, to this fertile 
 island, and contributed greatly to its agricultural development. 
 
 The island is most readily reached from the mainland, by 
 boat from Shediac to Summerside, or from Pictou to Charlotte- 
 town. Summerside is a pleasant town, with a population of 
 4,000, with a charming summer resort on an island command- 
 ing a fine view of the Bedique shores and Northumberland 
 Strait. 
 
 Sailing eastward, the steamer passes through this strait at its 
 narrowest part — between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine. 
 Here the mails and passengers are carried across by ice-boats 
 in winter, it being often found impracticable to keep a steamer 
 running through the thick and drifting ice. This unique mode 
 of travel is thus described by Mr. W. R. Reynolds : 
 
 "The distance to Cape Traverse is about nine miles, part 
 solid ice, part drifting ice, part water, and sometimes a great 
 deal of broken ice or ' lolly.' The ' ice-boat ' is a strongly built 
 water boat, in charge of trusoy men who thoroughly understand 
 the difficult task that is before them. To this boat straps are 
 attached, and each man, passengers included, has one slung over 
 him. So long as there is any foothold, all hands drag the boat 
 along, and when the water is reached they pull the boat in it 
 and get on board. In this way, sometimes up to the waist in 
 water, but safely held by the strap, pulling and hauling over 
 all kinds of places, the journey is accomplished. Sometimes, 
 when the conditions are good, the trip has less hardships than 
 when a large amount of loose ice is piled across the path ; but 
 at any time the ' voyage ' is sufficiently full of novelty, excite- 
 
THE ISLAND RAILWAY. 
 
 69 
 
 ment and exercise, to be remembered for many days. There is 
 nothing like it in the ordinary experience of a traveller. It is 
 an unique style of journeying, yet, so far, it is the only sure 
 method of communication with the island in the winter season." 
 
 Charlotte town, the capital of the island, with a population of 
 about 12,000, is situated on gently rising ground, fronting on a 
 capacious land-locked harbour. The streets, one hundred feet 
 wide, are laid out in regular rectangles. The most imposing 
 structure is the Colonial Building, constructed of Nova Scotia 
 freestone, at a cost of $85,000. The Legislative Council and 
 Assembly chambers are handsomely furnished. The Wesleyan 
 College overlooks the city and harbour. It has ten instructors 
 and about three hundred students. 
 
 The island is traversed from end to end by a narrow-gauge 
 railway, constructed by the Dominion Government. Fertility 
 of soil, simplicity of manners, and thrift and industry of the 
 people, are the characteristics of the country. As a local poet 
 expresses it : 
 
 *' No land can boast more rich supply, 
 That e'er was found beneath the sky ; 
 No purer streams have ever flowed, 
 Since Heaven that bounteous gift bestowed. . . 
 And herring, like a mighty host, 
 And cod and mackerel, crowd the coast." 
 
 The railway traverses a fertile farming country — " a sort of 
 Acadia in which Shenstone might have delighted." Among the 
 principal stations, going west from Charlottetown, are Rustico, 
 a pleasant marine settlement; Summerside, already referred to; 
 Alberton, a prosperous village engaged in ship building and 
 fisheries ; and Tignish, in the extreme northern point, an im- 
 portant fishing station. At Alberton were born the Gordons — 
 martyred missionaries of Erromanga, one of whom was killed 
 bv the natives in 1861, and the other in 1872. At the eastern 
 end of the island are Souris and Georgetown, termini of the 
 two branches of the railway. They are prosperous fishing and 
 shipping towns. 
 
 The Magdalen Islands, thirteen in number, lie out in the 
 Gulf, fifty miles north of Prince Edward Island. The inhabi- 
 
70 
 
 DEADMAIVS ISLE. 
 
 tants are mostly Acadian fishermen, speaking French only. 
 The harbours, during the fishing season, are the rendezvous 
 of hundreds of sail engaged in the pursuit of the immense 
 schools of mackerel and cod, which swarm in the neighbouring 
 waters. The drift ice in the spring brings down myriads of 
 seals, of which, 6,000 have been taken in a fortnight, by seal 
 hunters going out from the shore. It is claimed that these 
 islands furnish the best lobster fishery in America. 
 
 Deadman's Isle, an isolated rock, takes its name from its 
 fancied resemblance to a corpse laid out for burial. While 
 passing this rock, in 1804, Tom Moore wrote the poem, of which 
 the following are the closing lines : 
 
 "There lieth a wreck on the dismal shore 
 Of cold and pitiless Iiabrador, 
 Where, under the moon, upon mounts of frost, 
 Full many a mariner's bones are tossed. 
 
 Yon shadowy bark hath been to that wreck, 
 And the dim blue fire that lights her deck 
 Doth play on as pale and livid a crew 
 As ever yet drank the churchyard dew. 
 
 To Deadman's Isle in the eye of the blast, 
 To Deadman's Isle she speeds her fast ; 
 By skeleton shapes her sails are furled. 
 And the hand that steers is not of this world." 
 
 In the month of August, 1873, a terrible storm swept over 
 these waters, strewing with wrecks their rocky shores. Many 
 scores of vessels were lost, and hundreds of gallant fishermen 
 found a watery grave. The dreadful disaster is commemorated 
 in the following fine poem, by Edmund C. Stedman : 
 
 THE LORD's-DAY GALE. 
 
 In Gloucester port lie fishing craft, — 
 More staunch and trim were never seen: 
 
 They are sharp before and sheer abaft, 
 And true their lines the masts between. 
 
 Along the wharves of Gloucester town 
 
 Their fares are lightly landed down. 
 And the laden flakes to sunward lean. 
 
LORDS-DAY GALE. 
 
 71 
 
 only. 
 
 
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 inense 
 
 
 )uring 
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 y seal 
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 't^ 
 
 )m its 
 
 1 
 
 While 
 
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 And some must sail to the banks far north 
 And set their trawls for the hungry cod, — 
 
 In the ghostly fog creep back and forth 
 By shrouded paths no foot hath trod ; 
 
 Upon the crews the ice-winds blow, 
 
 The bitter sleet, the frozen snow, — 
 Their lives are in the hand of God 1 
 
 The Grand Bank gathers in its dead, — 
 The deep sea-sand is their winding-slieet ; 
 
 Who does not George's billows dread 
 That dash together the drifting fleet? 
 
 Who does not long to hear, in May, 
 
 The pleasant wash of Saint Lawrence Bay, 
 The fairest ground where fishermen meet? 
 
 The Province craft with ours at morn 
 Are mingled when the vapours shift; 
 
 All day, by breeze and current borne, 
 Across the bay the sailors drift : 
 
 With toll and seine its wealth they win, — 
 
 The dappled silvery spoil come in 
 Fast as their hands can haul and lift. 
 
 Cape Breton and Edward Isle between, 
 In strait and gulf the schooners lay ; 
 
 The sea was all at peace, 1 ween, 
 The night before that August day ; 
 
 Was never a Gloucester skipper there, 
 
 Buc thought erelong, with a right good fare. 
 To sail for home from Saint Lawrence Bay. 
 
 The east wind gathered all unknown, — 
 A thick sea-cloud his course before ; 
 
 He left by night the frozen zone 
 And smote the cliffs of Labrador ; 
 
 He lashed the coasts on either hand. 
 
 And betwixt the Cape and Newfoundland 
 Into the Bay his armies pour. 
 
 He caught our helpless cruisers there 
 
 As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold ; 
 
 A sleet — a darkness — filled the air, 
 A shuddering wave before it rolled : 
 
 That Lord's-day morn it was a breeze,— 
 
 At noon, a blast that shook the seas, — 
 At night — a wind of Death took hold 1 
 
7S 
 
 if 
 
 LORD'S-DAY GALE. 
 
 It leaped across the Breton bar, 
 
 A douth-wind from the stormy east 1 
 It scarred the land, and whirled afar 
 
 The sheltering thatch of man and beast ; 
 It mingled rick and roof and tree. 
 And like a besom swept the sea, 
 
 And churned the waters into yeast. 
 
 From Saint Paul's light to Edward's Isle 
 
 A thousand craft it smote amain ; 
 And some against it strove the while, 
 
 And more to make a port were fain : 
 The mackerel- gulls flew screaming ])ast, 
 And the stick that bent to the noonday blast 
 
 Was split by the sundown hurricane. 
 
 Woe, woe to those whom the islands pen! 
 
 In vain they shun the double capes ; 
 Cruel are the reefs of Magdalen ; 
 
 The wolPs white fang what prey escapes 9 
 The Grindstone grinds the bones of some, 
 And Coffin Isle is craped with foam ; — 
 
 On Deadman's shore are fearful shapes ! 
 
 O, what can live on the open sea, 
 
 Or moored in port the gale outride? 
 The very craft that at anchor be 
 
 Are dragged along by the swollen tide ! 
 The great storm wave came rolling west. 
 And tossed the vessels on its crest : 
 
 The ancient bounds its might defied I 
 
 The ebb to check it had no power ; 
 
 The surf ran up to an untold height ; 
 It rose, nor yielded, hour by hour, 
 
 A night and day, a day and night ; 
 Far up the seething shores it cast 
 The wreck of hull and spar and mast. 
 
 The strangled crews, — a woeful sight 1 
 
 There were twenty and more of Breton sail 
 Fast anchored on one mooring ground ; 
 
 Each lay within his neighbour's hail. 
 
 When the thick of the tempest closed them round : 
 
 All sank at once in the gaping sea, — 
 
 Somewhere on the shoals their corses be. 
 
 The foundered hulks, and the seamen drowned. 
 
LORD'S-DAY GALE. 
 
 78 
 
 On reof and bar our schooners drove 
 
 Before the wind, before tlie swell ; 
 By the steep sand-clifFs their ribs were stove,— 
 
 Long, long their crews the tale shall tell ! 
 Of the Gloucester fleet are wrecks threescore ; 
 Of the Province sail two hundred more 
 
 Were stranded in that tempest foil. 
 
 The bedtime bells in Gloucester town 
 That Sabbiith night rang soft and clear ; 
 
 The sailors' cliildren laid them down, — 
 
 Dear Lord ! their sweet prayers could'st Thou hear? 
 
 "Tis said that gently blew the winds ; 
 
 The good wives, through the seaward blinds, 
 Looked down the Bay and had no fear. 
 
 New England ! New England ! 
 
 Thy ports their dauntless seamen mourn ; 
 The twin capes yearn for their return 
 
 Who never shall be thither borne ; 
 Their orphans whisper us they meet; 
 The homes are dark in many a street, 
 
 And women move in weeds forlorn. 
 
 And wilt thou lail, and dost thou fear ? 
 
 Ah, nol though widows' cheeks are pale, 
 The lads shall say : ' Another year. 
 
 And we shall be of age to sail I ' 
 And the mothers' hearts shall fill with pride, 
 Though tears drop fast for tliem who died 
 
 When the fleet wag wrecked in the Lords-day gale. 
 
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 75 
 
 I^EWFOITXDLAND. 
 
 BEFORE turning westward to the great provinces of 
 Quebec and Ontario, I must give a sketch of the physi- 
 cal character, principal industries, and historic associations of 
 the vast island of Newfoundland, Though not yet a part of 
 the Dominion of Canada, it is not likely that it will much 
 longer remain dissevered from political relations with the rest 
 of British North America. The present writer has not person- 
 ally visited Newfoundland, and is, therefore, dependent upon 
 the excellent authorities cited for the account of it here given. 
 
 The physical aspect of this great island is thus described by 
 the Rev. Dr. Carman : 
 
 Newfoundland is a vast, triangular island with a base of 
 316 miles, and altitude of 317 miles. It has an area of 42,000 
 square miles, one-sixth larger than Ireland ; two-thirds the 
 size of England and Wales together ; and with a coast line of 
 2,000 miles ; having in its whole extent only 200,000 people 
 scattered and grouped along that coast line, and perhaps not 
 5,000 of them three miles from the sea. But how could there 
 be coast line of 2,000 miles on a triangle of the dimensions 
 given above ? That line is gashed with great bays, broader 
 than Lake Ontario, and half as long at places, nearly cutting 
 the island in twain, and embraced in huge, protruding arms of 
 rocky range that themselves, with all the shore, are riven and 
 ploughed into a thousand less bays, and rough and rocky coves, 
 around which the fishermen have built their little houses, and 
 into the largest of which the merchants and traders have fol- 
 lowed them, and built up the villages and little towns. 
 
 Let us stand on ship-deck and look at the shore, and what we 
 see in one place we see in nearly all : rock, towering rock, 
 from 50 to 500 feet above the restless sea, bare and barren ; 
 
ASPECT OF COAST. 
 
 77 
 
 mighty bulwarks against tho northern main, battered and broken 
 with iceberg ; ploughed and ground with tempest and wave. 
 What less than such ramparts and citadels, whose massive 
 masonry was laid deep in subterranean chambers, and whose 
 walls were lifted and piled by the twin giants, earthquake and 
 volcano, could ever have withstood the rush of the tremendous 
 phalanxes of iceberg and avalanche poured upon these rugged 
 shores by the ice king of the Arctic domain, and the dash of 
 the fierce tempests upon the storm-scarred towers ? And these 
 grand harbours, of which the island has its scores, how utterly 
 indispensable they are, and how wonderfully they are formed I 
 
 Take a port like that of St. John's, where you enter as in an 
 instant from the open sea betwixt two walls of precipitous 
 rock, hundreds of feet high, by a passage scarcely wide enough 
 for two vessels to pass, and come in a minute into a long and 
 broad basin completely surrounded by equally lofty ranges of 
 rock, where a navy may ride in calm, deep sea, in perfect 
 security. 
 
 Take another, like that at Trinity, where we enter by a chan- 
 nel not much wider, and come at once into a large, open bay, 
 surrounded by towering rocks as at St. John's, and then may 
 press up into the land betwixt the precipitous hills on either 
 of two extensive arms of the sea, giving not only a safe retreat, 
 but actually a hiding-place for the navies of nations. These 
 wonders abound, but there is not one too many or one too safe 
 when the storms of the Atlantic and the fogs and currents and 
 ice come into the account. 
 
 Think of such a coast as this, with its lofty head bold and 
 bald to the sea ; its mountain and hill girt bays and coves ; its 
 tempest-riven and wave-worn cliffs and precipices ; with the 
 people given to fishing, and the communication by water ten- 
 fold readier and easier than by land ; and how are you going to 
 build waggon roads and railroads ? And what are you going 
 to do with them when you get them ? But the enterprising 
 Newfoundlanders are solving that very problem, difficult as it 
 is. Not by a sectional or municipal arrangement, but by the 
 concentration of the energies and resources of all the people in 
 the general Government they are gradually, by well-built 
 
I 
 
 mm i' 
 
 I I 
 
 I 
 1 
 
 f. 
 
 
 * I I 
 
 ty ' I 
 
 78 
 
 SIGNAL STATION. 
 
 roads connecting the out-ports, inaccessible by land as they 
 have been, with the capital ; and even invading the interior of 
 the island, which is a terra incognita, and will yet be, in many 
 
 respects, a new-found-land to the Newfoundlanders themselves. 
 The waggon-roads they have built are most of them excellent 
 to travel upon, as the bed is hard, and much of the rock is 
 
S7\ JOf/iVS HARBOUR. 
 
 79 
 
 easily triturated and cements naturally, making? in a little while 
 a very smooth and solid way indeed. The road runs along the 
 shore, from harbour to harbour, connecting the coves as nearly 
 as possible at their heads, and opening up to the traveller some 
 of the grandest mountain and ocean scenery in the world. 
 
 ST. John's. 
 
 We are indebted to the Rev. W. W. Percival fov the following 
 account of the entrance to the famous harbour (if St. John's, 
 and of the city itself : 
 
 On every side a lofty, iion-bound coast presents itself to 
 view ; the grim, hoary rocks seem to frown defiance to the 
 angry Atlantic. As the ship approaches nearer and nearer, 
 you think that surely she is only rushing on to her doom, 
 when suddenly the voyager sees a narrow opening in the rocky 
 wall, as if by some mighty convulsion of nature the rampart 
 had been rent asunder, and the sea had rushed in. Through 
 this narrow entrance he safely glides, su rounded by a wall of 
 rock on either side, some five or six hundred feet in height. It 
 is impossible to gaze upon those great cliffs of dark red sand- 
 stone, piled in huge masses on a foundation of gray slate-rock, 
 without <>xperiencing a feeling of awe. On his right, surmount- 
 ing an almost perp<;ndicular precipice five hun<lred and ten feet 
 above the level of the sea,».stands the "Block House" for 
 signalling vessels as they approath the harbour. On his left, 
 tlie hill rises still higher by a hundied feet, and looks rugged and 
 broken. From th.e base of this hill a rocky promontory juts out, 
 forming tie ontranco of tlu- " Narrows " on one side, its summit 
 being crowned by Fort Ainlitrst lighthouse. In formm' years 
 batteries, armed with formidable xnns, rose one above another 
 amid the clefts of the r(x;ks ; but years ago the garrison was 
 withdrawn, and the cannon removed. 
 
 The pa.ssag«' leading to the harbour, oommonly called the 
 Narrows, is nearly half a mile in length, and it is not till about 
 two-thirds of it is paHsed that the city itself comes into view, 
 as at the termination of this channel, the harboui' tends sud- 
 denly to the west, thus completely shutting out the swell of the 
 
,ri 1 
 
 
 80 
 
 57: JOHNS. 
 
 
 
 ocean. Ten minutes after leaving the foam-crested billows of 
 the Atlantic, your ship is safely moored at the wharf, in a 
 perfectly land-locked harbour. Vessels, of the largest tonnage 
 can enter at all times, for there is not more than four feet of a 
 tide. The Narrows, in the narrowest part, is about sixteen 
 hundred feet in width. The harbour is about half a mile in 
 length, and about half a mile in width. It is deep, having from 
 live to ten fathoms, and in the centre sixteen fathoms of water. 
 
 Mr. Percival proceeds as follows to describe the capital: The 
 city occupies a commanding site on the northern side of the 
 harbour. From the water's edge the ground rises with a 
 gradual slope till the sunnnit is reached, where there is a large 
 level space. Along the face of this slope the main streets run 
 east and west, being intersected by others running up over the 
 hill north and .south. Water Street, the principal business 
 avenue, runs parallel with the harbour the whole length of the 
 city. It presents a very substantial, if not a very artistic 
 appearance, the houses being mostly built of brick and stone. 
 Shops, stores, and mercantile counting-houses occupj^ the ground 
 floors, while many of the merchants and shopkeepers live in the 
 upper stories. A vast amount of business is transacted every 
 year in this street ; perhaps there is not another in British 
 America that transacts more, for nearly the whole business of 
 the colony is done here. 
 
 The architectural appearance of the city, though nothing to be 
 prouil of, has vastly im-proved during the past dozen years. 
 Heretofore the custom too largely prevailed of many of the mer- 
 chants coming out to St. John's .siuiply to make money, and after 
 succeeding in doing so, returning to England or Scotland to 
 spend it lavishly in embellishing their homes. Only intending 
 to live here for a brief period, they were not particular how they 
 lived, or where. But this condition of things, we are thankful 
 to say, is rapidly becoming obsolete, and the result is .seen in the 
 marked architectural improvement of the city. Already, on the 
 summits overlooking the business part of the city, there are 
 houses of a very superior description, and many more are being 
 erected every summer. 
 
 St. John's, in former years, suffered terribly by fire. Twice 
 
DISASTROUS FIRES. 
 
 81 
 
 the greater portion of it was laid in ashes. In 1816 a fire broke 
 out, which consumed SiiOO.OOO worth of property, leaving fifteen 
 hundred persons homeless and shelterless, amidst the biting 
 frosts of February. Just as they were partially recovering 
 from the effects of this calamity another of the same kind, only 
 of still greater extent, occurred. On the morning of the 
 9th of June, 1846, another fire broke out in the western end of 
 the city, which swept eve "ything before it, and before night 
 three-fourths of the wealthy and populous city were a smoking 
 mass of ruins. As the houses were then mostly built of wood, 
 and as a high wind prevailed at the time, the firebrands were 
 hurled far and wide. To add to the terrors of the scene, while the 
 red tongues of flame were leaping from street to street, the huge 
 oil vats on the south side of the harbour took fire. Liquid fire 
 now spread over the whole surface of the water, and ignited a 
 nutnl)'"* of ships in the harbour, thus adiling to the terrible 
 gran' I. f the scene. Before the day closed, twelve thousand 
 people were homeless, and property valued at $4,500,000 waa 
 destroyed. 
 
 Among the more prominent public buildings are the Govern- 
 ment House, the Colonial Building, Custom House, Athenaaum 
 Hall, and several churches. Government House is a plain, sub- 
 stantial stone building, without architectural pretensions, but 
 spacious and comfortable. The Colonial Building is a large plain 
 structure, built of white limestone, imported direct from Cork, 
 though why it was necessary to send all the way there for it 
 was always a mystery to the writer. The Athenteum comprises a 
 large public hall, reading-room. and library of well-selected books, 
 and several public offices. The most conspicuous of the churches 
 is the Roman cathedral. It occupies a com nanding site on the 
 summit of the hill, on which the city is built. It is in the form 
 of a vast Latin cross, with two lofty towers in front. The 
 Church of England cathedral will rank among the finest ecclesi- 
 astical edifices in British America. The growth of Methodism 
 has been rapid within the past few years, and it has a number 
 of fine churches. 
 
 Any description of this ancient and loyal Colony would be 
 essentially incomplete were we to omit mention of the fisheries. 
 

 9 
 
 ix 
 
 u 
 
 1X4 
 
COD-FISHERY. 
 
 83 
 
 as these constitute the grand staple industry of the island. In 
 this department Newfoundland is in advance of all other 
 countries. Her cod-fi.sheries are the most extensive in the world. 
 The cod-fishery has been prosecuted during the last three hun- 
 dred and seventy-five years ; but notwithstanding the enormous 
 draughts every year, the f^ahing grounds show not the least sign 
 of exhaustion. When 'Jir Humphrey Gilbert took possession 
 of the island, in 1583, he found thirty-six ships in the harbour 
 of St. John's engaged in fishing. All the v»ther fisheries, includ- 
 ing seal, salmon, and herring, in the aggregate only amount 
 in value to about one-fifth of the cod-fishery. 
 
 FISH-CURING. 
 
 Tlie method of curing the cod-fisb is thus described in Messrs. 
 Harvey and Hatton's admirable History of Newfoundland: 
 
 When the fisherman's boat, laden with the day's catch, reaches 
 his stage — a rough-covered platform, projecting over the water 
 and supported on poles — the fish are flung one by one from the 
 boat to the floor of the stage, with an instrument /.sembling a 
 small pitchfork, and called a "pew." The cod is now seized by 
 the "cut-throat," armed with a sharp knife, who with one stroke 
 slits open the fish, and passes in to the " header.' This operator 
 first extracts the liver, which is dropped into a vessel at his side, 
 to be converted into cod-liver oil. He then wrenches off the 
 head, removes the viscera, which are thrown into a vessel, to be 
 preserved along with the head for the farmer, who, mixing them 
 with bos: and earth thus forms an excellent fertilizer. The 
 tongues and sounds, or air-bladders, are also taken out, and whon 
 pickled, make an excellent article of food. The fish now passes 
 to the " splitter," who, placing it on its back, and holding it 
 open with his left hand, cuts along the backbone to the ba^-e of 
 the tail. The fish now lies open on the table, and with a sharp 
 stroke of the knife the "splitter" severs the backbone, and 
 catching the end thus freed, severs it from the body. The 
 "saiter" now takes hold of the fish, and having carefully washed 
 away every particle of blood, he salts it in piles on the floor of 
 the fisli-house. After remaining the proper leugth of time in 
 
 A 
 
84> 
 
 FISH FLAKES. 
 
 salt, it is taken from the heap, washed, and carried to the "flake," 
 where it is spread out to dry. The flake consists of a horizontal 
 framework of small poles, covered with spruce-boughs, and sup- 
 ported by upright poles, the air having free access beneath. 
 Here the cod are spread to bleach in the sun and air, and during 
 the process require constant attention. In damp or rainy 
 weather, or at the approach of night, they are piled in small 
 
 
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 heaps with the skin c^utward. When thorouglUy dried they 
 have a whitish '<i>pearan'(\ ami aiv then ready for storing. 
 
 To Messrs. Harvey an.l Hatton's excel'.ent K>ok I am also 
 indebted for the following gmphic account of ;he seal-fishery: 
 
 Next to the cod-fish<»ry, the most valuable of the Newfound- 
 land tislieries is that (4" the seal. The average annual value at 
 
SEALING. 
 
 85 
 
 present of the seal-fishery is about $1,100,000, being about an 
 eighth part of the entire exports. The number of men em- 
 ployed is from 8,000 to 10,000. 
 
 Beginning with a few nets, there followed the sealing-boats 
 and the little schooners, carrying each a dozen men, until the 
 industry was prosecuted with vessels of 200 or 2.50 tons, and 
 crews of forty or fifty men. At length, all-conquering steam 
 entered the field, and in 18G3 the first steamer took part in this 
 fishery. Since then the number of steamers has rapidly in- 
 creased, and the number of sailing vessels has still more rapidly 
 diminished. The day is not very distant when this industry 
 will be carried on solely by powerful steamers. They are 
 strongly built, to stand the pressure of ice, and cleave their way 
 through the ice-fields, being stoutly timbered, sheathed with 
 iron-wood, and having iron-plated stems. 
 
 SEALING AND SEALS. 
 
 There is always great excitement connected with the seal- 
 fisheries. The perils and hardships to be encountered, the skill 
 and courage required in battling with the ice-giants, and ti^c 
 possible rich prizes to be won, throw a romantic interest around 
 this adventure. Not the seal-hunters alone, but the whole popu- 
 lation, from the richest to the poorest, take a deep interest in 
 the fortunes of the hunt. It is like an army going out to do 
 battle for those who remain at home. In this case the enemies 
 to be encountered are the icebergs, the tempest, and the blind- 
 ing snow-storm. A steamer will sometimes go out and return 
 in two or three weeks, laden to the gunwale, occasionally bring- 
 ing home as many as thirty or forty thousand seals, each worth 
 two and a half or three dollars. The successful hunters are 
 welcomed with thundering cheers, like returning conquerors, 
 ;;,nd are the heroes of the hour. 
 
 According to law, no sailing vessel can be cleared for the ice 
 before the first of March, and no steai)ier before the 10th of 
 March ; a start in advance of ten day.' being thus accorded to 
 the vessels which depend on wind alone. As the time for start- 
 ing approaches, the streets and wharves of the capital assume 
 
86 
 
 SEALING 
 
 m 
 
 
 Pi!" 
 
 ^. i 
 
 f^-i 
 
 an appearance of bustle, which contrasts pleasantly with the 
 previous stapjnation. The steamers and sailing vessels begin to 
 take in stores, and complete their repairs. Rough berths are 
 fitted up for the sealers ; bags of biscuit, barrels of pork, and 
 other necessaries are stowed away ; water, fuel, and ballast are 
 taken on board ; the sheathing of the ships, which has to stand 
 the grinding of the heavy Arctic ice, is carefully inspected. A 
 crowd of eager applicants surrounds the shipping offices, power- 
 ful-looking men, in rough jackets and long boots, splashing 
 tobacco-juice over the white snow in all directions, and shoulder- 
 ing one another in their anxiety to get booked. The great 
 object is to secure a place on board one of the steamers, the 
 chances of success being considered much better than on board 
 the sailing vessels. The masters of the steamers are thus able 
 to make up their crews with picked men. Each steamer has 
 on board from one hundred and fifty to three hundred men, and 
 it would be difficult to find a more stalwart lot of fellows in 
 the Royal Navy itself. The steamers have an immense advan- 
 tage over the sailing vessels. They can cleave their way through 
 the heavy ice-packs against the wind: they can double and 
 beat about in search of the " seal-patches ;" and when the prey 
 is found, they can hold on to the ice-fields, while sailing vessels 
 are liable to be driven oflf by a change of wind, and if beset 
 with ice are often powerless to escape. It is not to be won- 
 dered at that steamers are rapidly superseding sailing vessels 
 in the seal-fishery. They can make two, and even three trips 
 to the ice-field during the season, and thus leave behind the 
 antiquated sealer dependent on the winds. 
 
 Before the introduction of steamers, one hundred and twenty 
 sailing-vessels, of from forty to two hundred tons, used to leave 
 the port of St. John's alone for the seal-fishery. Now they are 
 reduced to some h.ilf-dozen, but from the more distant "out- 
 ports " numbers of small sailing vessels still engage in this 
 special industry. 
 
 The young seals are born on the ice from the 10th to the 
 2oth of February, and as they grow rapidly, and yield a much 
 finer oil than the old ones, the object of the hunters is to reach 
 them in their babyhood while yet fed by their mothers' milk, 
 
 
AND SEALERS. 
 
 87 
 
 and while they are powerless to escape. So quickly do they 
 increase in bulk, that by the 28th of March they are in perfect 
 condition. By the 1st of April they begin to take to the water, 
 and can no longer be captured in the ordinary way. The great 
 Arctic current, fed by streams from the seas east of Greenland, 
 and from Baffin's and Hudson's Bays, bears on its bosom hun- 
 dreds of square miles of floating ice, which are carried past the 
 shores of Newfoundland, to find their destiny in the warm 
 waters of the Gulf Stream. Somewhere amid these floating 
 masses, the seals have brought forth their young, which remain 
 on the ice during the first period of their growth, for five or six 
 weeks. The great aim of the hunters is to get among the hordes 
 of " white-coats," as the young harp seals are called, during this 
 period. For this purpose they go forth at the appointed time, 
 steering northward till they come in sight of those terrible icy 
 wildernesses, which, agitated by the swell of the Atlantic, 
 threaten destruction of all rash invaders. These hardy seal- 
 hunters, however, who are accustomed to battle with the floes, 
 are quite at home among the bergs and crushing ice-masses ; 
 and where other mariners would shrink away in terror, they 
 fearlessly dash into the ice wherever an opening presents itself, 
 in search of their prey. 
 
 In the ice-fields the surface of the ocean is covered with a 
 glittering expanse of ice, dotted with towering bergs of every 
 shape and size, having gleaming turrets, domes and spires. The 
 surface of the ice-field is rugged and broken, rushing frequently 
 into steep hillocks and ridges. The scene in which " The 
 Ancient Mariner " found himself, is fully realized : 
 
 **Ancl now there came bi)th mist and siiuw, 
 And it grew wondrous cold ; 
 And ice, mast-high, came floating by. 
 As green as emerald. 
 
 "And through the drifts the snowy clifts 
 Did send a dismal sheen : 
 Nor shajies of men, nor beasts we ken — 
 The ice was all between. 
 
 "The ice was here, the ice was there, 
 The ice was all around ; 
 It cracked and growled, and roared and howled, 
 Like noises in a swound." 
 
■'■■; I 
 
 
 «]il ■ 
 
 19 
 
 SEALING. 
 
 When a storm arises amid these icy solitudes the scene ia 
 grand and awt'id, bo^'ond all powers of description. 
 
 Considering all the perils, it is surprising how few fatal dis- 
 asters occur. During the seal hunt of 1<S72, one hundred men 
 perished, fifty of these having gone down in a single vessel, 
 called the ilunUman, on the coast of Lal)rador. In the same 
 year, two steamers, the Lioudlioiuid and lietvicvi'v, were crashed 
 by the ice and sank, but their crews, numbering nearly four 
 hundred men, manage<] to reach Battle Harbour, in Labrador, 
 over the ice, after enduring great hardships. 
 
 Happily these terrible storms are not frequent. For the most 
 part the sea is at rest, and then the ice-tields present a strange 
 beauty of their own, which has a wonderful fascination. When 
 the sun is shining brightly, it is too dazzling, and its monotony 
 is wearisome. The moon, the stars, and the flickering Aurora, 
 are needed to reveal all its beauty.* 
 
 We shall now look into the equipment of a sealing steamer, 
 and then, in imagination, accompany her to the ice-tields, in 
 order to form son)e idea of the hunt. 
 
 In the last week of February, the roads leading from the 
 various out-ports of St. Johns, begin to be enlivened by the 
 appearance of the sealers, or, as they are called in the vernacu- 
 lar, "swilers," tlieir enterprise being designated "swile huntin'." 
 Each of them carries a bundle of spare clothing over his shoulder, 
 swinging at the extremity of a pole six or seven feet in length, 
 which is called a " gatt"," and which serves as a bat or club to 
 strike the seal on the nose, where it is mo.st vulnerable. The 
 same weapon serves as an ice-pole in leaping from " pan " to 
 " pan," and is also used for dragging the skin and fat of the seal 
 over the fields and hummocks of ice to the side of the vessel. 
 To answer these various purposes, the "gaff" is armed with an 
 iron hook at one end and bound with iron. Some of the men, 
 in addition, carry a long sealing-gun on their shoulders. These 
 are the " bow " or " after gunners," who are marksmen to shoot 
 
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 among tlic icebergs, with tlie bright curtails of the northern Aurora waving 
 overhead. 
 
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90 
 
 SEALING 
 
 old seals or others that cannot be reached by the " gaff." The 
 outfit of the sealers is of the simplest description. Sealskin 
 boots, reaching to the knee, having a thick leather sole well 
 nailed, to enable them to walk over the ice, protect the feet ; 
 coarse canvas jackets often showing the industry of a wife or 
 mother, in the number of patches which adorn them, are worn 
 over warm woollen shirts and other inner clothing ; sealskin 
 caps, and tweed or moleskin trousers, with thick woollen mits, 
 complete the costume, which is more picturesque than hand- 
 some. 
 
 In the forecastle, or other parts of each ship, rough berths are 
 constructed. The sealers have to furnish themselves with a straw 
 mattress and blanketing. The men are packed like herrings in 
 a barrel, and, as a rule, they never undress during the voyage. 
 In the rare event of putting on a clean shirt, it goes over its 
 predecessor, without removing the latter — a method which saves 
 time and trouble, and is, besides, conducive to warmth. The 
 owner of the vessel supplies the provisions. In sailing vessels, 
 half the proceeds of the voyage are divided as wages among 
 the men, but in st'^amers only a third is thus distributed. The 
 captain gets a certain number of cents per seal. 
 
 The food of the men is none of the daintiest, and no one who 
 is at all squeamish about what he " eats, drinks and avoids," 
 need attempt to go " swile huntin'." The diet consists of bis- 
 cuit, pork, butter, and tea, sweetened with molasses. On three 
 days of the week dinner consists of pork and " duff," the latter 
 item consisting of flour and water, with a little fatty substance 
 intermixed " to lighten it." When boiled it is almost as hard 
 as a cannon ball. On the other four days of the week, all the 
 meals consist of tea, sweetened with molasses, and biscuit. Such 
 is the rough fare on which these hardy fellows go through their 
 trying and laborious work. When, however, they fall in with 
 seals, their diet is improved. They cook the heart, liver, flip- 
 pers, and other parts, and feast on them ad libitum, and gener- 
 ally come ashore in excellent condition, though the odour that 
 attends them does not suggest the "spicy breezes" which "blow 
 soft from Ceylon's Isle." The use of fresh seal meat is highly 
 conducive to health, and is the best preventive of scurvy. Very 
 
AND SEALERS. 
 
 91 
 
 little sickness occurs among the men while leading this rough 
 life. They are often out for eight or ten weeks without seeing 
 land, and enduring the hardest toils. When seals are taken in 
 large quantities, the hold of the vessel is first filled, and then 
 the men willingly surrender their berths, which are packed full 
 of " white-coats." In fact, every nook and corner is crammed 
 with the precious fat ; and the sealers sleep where they can — 
 in barrels on deck, on a layer of seals, or in the coal bunks. It 
 is marvellous to see men, after eight or ten weeks of such life, 
 leap ashore hearty and vigorous. Their outer garments are 
 polished with seal fat, and it is advisable to keep to windward 
 of them till they have procured a change of clothing. 
 
 The experiences of a sealing voyage are various, being influ- 
 enced by the ever-shifting condition of the ice, and the direction 
 of the winds. The grand aim of the sealers is to reach that 
 portion of the ice which is the " whelping-grounds " of the seals, 
 while yet the young are in their plump, oleaginous babyhood. 
 The position of this icy cradle is utterly uncertain, being de- 
 pendent on the movements of the ice, and the force of the winds 
 and waves. It ha,s to be sought for amid vast ice-fields. At 
 times, in endeavouring to push her way through, the vessel is 
 caught in the heavy ice, and then the ice-saws are called into 
 requisition, to cut an opening to the nearest " lead " of clear 
 water, that she may work her way north. But the heavy Arc- 
 tic ice may close in under the pressure of a nor'-easter, and 
 then no amount of steam-power can drive her through. Howl- 
 ing night closes in ; bergs and floes are crashing all around, and 
 momentarily threatening her with destruction ; the wind roars 
 through the shrouds, driving on its wings the arrowy sleet and 
 snow, sharp as needles, which only men of iron can stand. 
 Thus, locked in the embrace of the floe, the luckless vessel is 
 drifted helplessly hundreds of miles, till a favourable wind 
 loosens the icy prison walls. It is no uncommon occurrence for 
 a hundred vessels to be thus beset by heavy ice, through which 
 no passage can be forced. Some are " nipped," some crushed to 
 atoms, and the men have to escape for their lives over the ice. 
 Others are carried into the great northern bays, or borne in the 
 heavy "pack "up and down on the ocean for weeks, returning 
 
92 
 
 SEALING 
 
 to port " clean " — that is, without a single seal. There are sea- 
 sons when the boldest and most skilful captains fail. At other 
 times, by a turn of good fortune, a vessel " strikes the seals " a 
 day or two after leaving port, and finds herself in the middle 
 of a "seal patch" sufficient to load the Great Eastern. The 
 whole ice for miles around is covered thick with the young 
 " white-coats," and in a fortnight from the time of the depar- 
 ture, she returns to port, loaded to the gunwale, her very decks 
 being piled with the skins and fat of seals. 
 
 When approaching such an El-Dorado as this, the excitement 
 on board may be imagined, as the welcome whimpering of the 
 young harp seals is heard. Their cry has a remarkable resem- 
 blance to the sobbing or whining of an infant in pain, which is 
 redoubled as the destroyers approach. Young hunters, who now 
 apply their gafts for the first time, are often almost overcome 
 by their baby lamentations. Compassion, however, is soon 
 gulped down. The vessel is " laid to," the men eagerly bound 
 on the ice, and the work of destruction begins. A blow on the 
 nose from the gaff, stuns or kUls the young seal. Instantly the 
 sculping-knife is at work, the skin, with the fat adhering, is 
 detached, with amazing rapidity, from i\\e carcass, which is left 
 on the ice, while the fat and skin alone are carried off. This 
 process is called " sculping " — a corruption, no doubt, of scalp- 
 ing. The skin or pelt is generally about three feet long, and 
 two and a half feet wide, and weighs from thirty-five to fifty 
 pounds. Five or six pelts are reckoned a heavy load to drag 
 over rough or broken ice, sometimes for one or two miles. If 
 the ice is loose and open, the hunter has to leap from pan to 
 pan. 
 
 Fancy two or three hundred men on a field of ice carrying on 
 this work. Then what a picture the vessel presei-is as the pelts 
 are being piled on deck to cool, previous to stowage below ! One 
 after another the hunters arrive with their loads, and snatch a 
 hasty moment to drink a bowl of tea, and eat a piece of biscuit 
 and butter. The poor mother seals, now cubless, are seen pop- 
 ping their heads up in the small lakes of water and holes among 
 the ice, anxiously looking for their young. 
 
 So soon as the sailing vessel reaches port with her fat cargo, 
 
AND SEALERS. 
 
 98 
 
 the skinners go to work and separate skin and fat. The former 
 are at once salted and stored for export to England, to be con- 
 verted into boots and shoes, harness, portmanteaus, etc. The 
 old method of manufacturing the fat was to throw it into huge 
 wooden vats, in which the pressure of its own weight, and the 
 heat of the sun, extracted the oil, which was drawn off' and 
 barrelled for exportation. This was a tedious process. Latterly- 
 steam has been employed to quicken the extraction of the oil. 
 By means of steam-driven machinery, the fat is now rapidly 
 cut up by revolving knives into minute pieces, then ground 
 finer in a sort of gigantic sausage-machine ; afterwards steamed 
 in a tank, which rapidly extracts the oil ; and finally, before 
 being barrelled, it is exposed for a time in glass-covered tanks 
 to the action of the sun's rays. By this process, the work of 
 manufacturing, which formerly occupied two months, is com- 
 pleted in two weeks. Not only so, but by jbhe steam process, 
 the disagreeable smell of the oil is removed, the quality im- 
 proved, and the quantity increased. 
 
 The refuse is sold to the farmers, who mix it with bog and 
 earth, which converts it into a highly fertilizing compost. The 
 average value of a ton of seal-oil is about a hundred and forty 
 dollars. The sUin of a young harp seal is worth froni ninety 
 to one hundred cents. The greater part of the oil is sent to 
 Britain, where it is largely used in lighthouses and mines, and 
 for lubricating machinery. It is also used in the manufacture 
 of the finer kinds of soap. 
 
 The maternal instinct appears to be peculiarly strong in the 
 female seal, and the tenderness with which the mothers watch 
 over their young offspring, is most touching. When the young 
 seals are cubbed on the ice, the mothers remain in the neigh- 
 bourhood, going off each morning to fish, and returning at 
 intervals to give them suck. It is an extraordinary fact that 
 the old oeals manage to keep holes in the ice open, and to pre- 
 vent them freezing over in order that they may reach the water. 
 On returning fr*om a fishing excursion, extending over fifty or 
 a hundred miles, each mother seal manages to find the hole by 
 which she took her departure, and to discover her own snow- 
 white cub, which she proceeds to fondle and suckle. This is 
 
SEALING. 
 
 9ft 
 
 o 
 
 5 
 
 CO 
 
 certainly one of the most remarkable achievements of animal 
 instinct. The young " wliite-coats " are scattered in myriads 
 over the ice-tield. During the absence of the mother, the field 
 of ice has shifted its position, perhaps many miles, being borne 
 on the current. Yet each mother seal is able to find her own 
 hole, and to pick out her own cub from the immense herd with 
 unerring accuracy. It is qtnte touching to witness their signs 
 of distress and grief when they return and find only a skinless 
 carcass, instead of their whimpering little ones. 
 
 Just as the eagle " stirs up her young," and encourages them 
 to use their wings, so, it is said, the mother seals tumble their 
 babies into the water and give them swimming lessons. When 
 they are in danger from " rafting " ice, or fragments of floes 
 dashed about by the wind and likely to crush them, the self- 
 sacriticing affection of the mothers leads them to brave all 
 dangers, and they are seen helping their young to places of 
 safety in the unbroken ice, sometimes clasping them in their 
 fore-flippers, and swimming with them, or pushing them for- 
 ward with their noses. 
 
 At the end of six weeks, the young shed their white woolly 
 robe, which has a yellowish or golden lustre, and a smooth, 
 spotted skin appears, having a rough, darkish fur. They have 
 now ceased to be " white-coats," and become "ragged -jackets." 
 The milk on which they are sustained is of a thick, creamy con- 
 sistency, very rich and nutritious. While the mothers are thus 
 guarding and suckling their young, the males take the oppor- 
 tunity of enjoying themselves, and are seen sporting about in 
 the open pools of water. The old male harps appear to be in- 
 dift'erent about their young. The male hood seal, on the other 
 hand, assists his mate in her maternal guardianship, and will 
 fight courageously in defence of her and the young. 
 
 In the seas around Newfoundland and Labrador there are 
 four species of seals — the bay seal, the harp, the hood, and the 
 square flipper. The bay seal is local in its habits, does not 
 migrate, but frequents the mouths of rivers and harbours around 
 the coast, and is never found on the ice. It is frequently taken 
 in nets, but, commercially, is of small importance. The harp 
 seal — 'par excellence, the seal of commerce — is so called from 
 
96 
 
 SEALS. 
 
 having a broad curved line of connected dark spots proceeding 
 from each shoulder, and meeting on the back above the tail, 
 and forming a figure something like an ancient harp. The old 
 harp seals alone have this figuring, and not till their second 
 year. 
 
 The hood seal is much larger than the harp. The male, called 
 by the hunters " the dog-hood," is distinguished from the female 
 by a singular hood or bag of flesh on his nose. When attacked 
 or alarmed, he inflates this hood so as to cover the face and eyes, 
 and it is strong enough to resist seal shot. It is impossible to 
 kill one of these creatures when his sensitive nose is thus pro- 
 tected, even with a sealing-gun, so long as his head or his tail 
 is toward you ; and the only way is by shooting him on the 
 side of the head, and a little behind it, so as to strike him in 
 the neck, or the base of the skull. 
 
 The square flipper seal is the fourth kind, and is believed to 
 be identical with the great Greenland seal. It is from twelve 
 to sixteen feet in length. By far the greatest '* catch " is made 
 among the young harps, though some seasons great numbers of 
 young hoods are also taken. 
 
 At a time when all other Northern countries are idle and 
 locked in icy fetters, here is an industry that can be plied by 
 the fishermen of Newfoundland, and by which, in a couple of 
 months, a million (and, at times, a million, and a half) of dollars 
 are won. It is over early in May, so that it does not interfere 
 with the summer cod-fishery, nor with the cultivation of the 
 soil. This, of course, greatly enhances its value.* 
 
 * " The seal-fishery," writes the Rev. Mr. Percival, for some time Meth- 
 odist minister at St. John's, Newfoundland, "furnishes us with not a few 
 illustrations of that firm adhesion to Christian principle which it is impos- 
 sible, for even the worldly, to gaze upon without admiration. Many of these 
 stalwart and grim-looking 'swilers' have, in our churches, sat at the blessed 
 feet of the 'Master,' and learnt lessons from Him. These Christian 
 principles are often severely tested. For instance, I knew of a case this 
 spring (and not a few such cases occur every spring), when a Christian cap- 
 tain was out at the ice after seals. On a bright and beautiful Sabbath 
 morning, he struck one of those El-Dorados ; hundreds of thousands of seals 
 surrounded his ship. Other crews about him were busily engaged in taking 
 them, and his men were impatient also to begin the work of death. Before 
 
MINING. 
 
 97 
 
 Newfoundland possesses another considerable source of at- 
 traction to a certain class of immigrants, and especially to 
 capitalists, in the shape of its vast mineral deposits. Beyon<l 
 all question, portions of the island are rich in valuable minerals. 
 These mines are principally situated in Notre Dame Bay, and 
 the ore is shipped directly to Swansea. Six or seven mines 
 have been in operation. According to the testimony of geolo- 
 gists, the mineral lands exceed five thousand square miles. Up 
 to 1879, the Tilt Cove mine yielded 50,000 tons of copper ore, 
 valued at $1,572,154 : and nickel, worth $32,740. A few miles 
 from Tilt's Cove, another mine was opened in 1875, at Betts' 
 Cove. By 1879, this latter mine exported 125,556 tons of ore, 
 valued at $2,982,836. The cut on page 98 shows the busy 
 scene at the harbour of Betts' Cove, a rich mining region. 
 Magnetic iron ore has been found, though not as yet in large 
 masses ; while lead ore has been found in workable quantities. 
 Coal has also been found in pretty extensive beds. Gypsum is 
 found in immense developments. Marbles, too, of almost every 
 shade of colour, occur in various parts of the island; while 
 granite, of the finest quality, building stone, whetstones, lime- 
 stones, and roofing-slate, are in ample profusion. 
 
 The town of Placentia is situated at the head of a magni- 
 ficent harbour. The fisheries of cod, herring, and salmon, are 
 unsurpassed, and the scenery is grandly picture.sque. The 
 town possesses considerable historic interest, having been 
 founded by the French in 1660. Notre Dame, Bonavistn, 
 Trinity, Conception, Fortune, and many another ample bay, 
 indents the hospitable coast of Newfoundland. • 
 
 the close of day, he mi^ht have loaded hia ship with some 960,000 worth of 
 seals, but he was firm to his Christian principles, and not one seal was taken 
 by him or any of his crew on the Sabbath day. During the following night a 
 strong breeze sprang up, and when Monday morning dawned there was 
 not a seal to be seen anywhere. That same captain retu ned to port with 
 eighty seals, and yet the brave man said, *I would do the same thing 
 again next year, sir ! ' Such illustrations of moral heroism the ice-fields 
 oft present, and every one of them is a sermon of greater eloquence and 
 power than ever came from the Ups of John the Golden-mouthed." 
 
98 
 
 TRAVEL IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 The chief facilities for travel on the island is thus described 
 by Dr. Carman. 
 
 The railway starts at St. John's, and runs around Conception 
 Bay, the first of the great bays that gash into the eastern coast 
 of the island; followed, as it is in order, as you go northward 
 
 Betts' Cote, Notbb Dahb Bat, Nbwtoumdland. 
 
 by Trinity Bay, Bonavista Bay, Notre Dame, or Green Bay, 
 and White Bay. Placentia Bay, on the south, almost meets 
 Trinity on the north and east, nearly cutting off the south- 
 eastern section for another island. The railway runs west from 
 the capital, climbing hills and dodging lakes and rocks, twelve 
 miles to Topsail, one of the prettiest beaches on the island, and 
 a fashionable watering place; then south, close along the shore, 
 
TRAVEL IN NEWFOUNDLAND, 
 
 M 
 
 having; a beautiful view of the bay on the one side, and the 
 rugged liill, mountain and forest on the other, to Holyrood — a 
 cozy little place on the slopes and among the rocks in the little 
 cove at the head of the bay ; then turning here, due north, and 
 climbing the mountain by a great sweep of engineering skill, 
 
 'if . . ■■-'"' 
 
 Placbntia. 
 
 through wildest, grandest scenery of rocky head and quiet cove, 
 beetling cliff and yawning gulf, it reaches the wilder plateau 
 of forest and lake on which it threads its serpentine way, amid 
 ledges and lagoons, past many coves, to Harbour Grace, its 
 present terminus ; making the distance from St. John's fully 
 double what it is across the Point and then across the Bay. 
 
WP 
 
 m^f^mm 
 
 100 
 
 ATLANTIC CABLE, 
 
 Harbour Qrace is the second city of Newfoundland, with a 
 population of seven thousand, on Conception Bay. It has 
 a fine Roman Catholic cathedral and convent. Carbonear, 
 three miles distant, has two thousand inhabitants, and Method- 
 ist and Catholic schools. Fifteen miles across the rugged 
 peninsula is Heart's Content, on Trinity Bay, a town of nine 
 hundred inhabitants, amid magnificent scenery. It is best 
 known to the outside world as the western terminus of the old 
 Atlantic telegraph cable, the subject of Whittier's fine hymn : 
 
 THE ATLANTIC TELEGRAPH CABUB. 
 
 lonely Bay of Trinity, 
 
 Ye bosky shorea uutrod, 
 Lean breathless to the white-lipped sea, 
 
 And hear the voice of God I 
 
 From world to world His couriers fly, 
 Thought-winged and shod with fire \ 
 
 The angel of His stoimy sky 
 Rides down the sunken wire. 
 
 What saith the herald of the Lord? 
 
 The world's long strife is done ; 
 Close wedded by that mystic cord, 
 
 The continents are one. 
 
 And one in heart, as one in blood, 
 
 Shall all the people be ; 
 The hands of human brdtherhood 
 
 Are clasped beneath the sea. 
 
 Through Orient seas, o'er Afric's plain. 
 And Asian mountains borne, 
 
 The vigour of the northern brain 
 Shall nerve the world outworn. 
 
 From clime to clime, from shore to shore, 
 Shall thrill the magic thread ; 
 
 The new Prometheus steals once more 
 The fire that wakes the dead. 
 
 Throb on, strong pulse of thunder I beat 
 From answering beaoh to beach ; 
 
 Fuse nations in thy kindly heat, 
 And melt the chains of each 1 
 
" OUT-PORTS." 101 
 
 Wild terror of the sky alM>vo, 
 
 Uliclo turned and dumb below t 
 Bear gently, Ocean's carrier duve, 
 
 Thy errands to and fro. 
 
 Weave on. swift shuttle of the Lord, 
 
 Beneath the deep so far, 
 The bridal robe of Earth's accord, 
 
 The funeral shroud of war 1 
 
 For lo 1 the fall of Ol oan's wall, 
 
 Space mocked, and Time outrun; 
 And round the world the thought of eaoh 
 
 It is the thought of one I 
 
 The poles unite, the zones agree, , 
 
 The tongues of striving cease ; 
 As on the Sea of Galilee 
 
 The O^rrist is whispering, Peace t 
 
 The other T>rincipal "out-ports" of Newfoundland — all the 
 ports except St. John's are so named — are on the east coast. 
 Bonavista, an old maritime town of some three thousand inhabi- 
 tants; Gatalina, with five hundred inhabitants; Qreenspond, 
 with one thousand inhabitants, on an island so rocky that the 
 soil for gardens is brought from the mainland; Fogo, an 
 important port of entry, amid magnificent scenery — ^"a western 
 iEgean Sea filled with a multitude of isles ; " Twillingate, with 
 a population of three thousand, situated on two islands, con- 
 nected by a bridge — noted for its fine breed of almost amphi- 
 bious Newfoundland dogs; Beits' Gove and Tilt's Gove, in 
 Notre Dame Bay — famous for copper and nickel mines. 
 
 On the south coast are Flacentia, once strongly fortified; 
 Burin, the finest harbour in Newfoundland, with two thousand 
 inhabitants; Burgeo, the most important port on the west 
 shore ; Rose Blanche, in a rocky fiord, and, near by, the Dead 
 Islands — Les Isles aux Morts — so called from the many wrecks 
 which have bestrewn their iron coasts. 
 
 The French shore is an immense sweep of deeply indented 
 coast, from Gape Ray around the whole north-west and northern 
 part of the island to Gape St. John, a distance of four hundteil 
 miles. It includes the richest valleys and fairest soils of New- 
 
 1 •.'•;' . \l '' 
 
102 
 
 THE FRENCH SHORE. 
 
 foundland. It is nearly exempt from foj;s, borders on the most 
 prolific fishing grounds, and is called the "Garden of Newfound- 
 land." By the treaties of 1713, 1763, and 1783, the French 
 received the right to catch and cure fish, and to erect huts and 
 stages along this entire coast, — a concession of which they have 
 availed themselves to the fullest extent. There are several 
 British colonies along the shore, but they live without law or 
 magistrates, since the Home Government believes that such 
 appointments would be against the spirit of the treaties with 
 France (which practically neutralized the coast). 
 
 It is destitute of roads, and has only one short and infrequent 
 mail-packet route. The only settlements are a few widely 
 scattered fishing-villages, inhabited by a rude and hardy class 
 of mariners ; and no form of local government has ever been 
 established on any part of the shore. 
 
 Off the south shore are the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, 
 the sole possessions of France of all her once vast territories in 
 the New World. The town of St. Pierre, says Mr. Sweetson, is 
 guarded by about fifty French soldiers, whose presence is 
 necessary to keep the multitudes of fearless and pugnacious 
 sailors from incessant rioting. The street, during the spring 
 and fall, is crowded with many thousands of hardy fishermen, 
 arrayed in the quaint costumos of their native shores — Normans, 
 Bretons, Basques, Provincials, and New-Englanders — all active 
 and alert ; while the implements of the fisheries are seen on 
 every side. There is usually one or more French frigates in 
 the harbour, looking after the vast fisheries, which employ 
 15,000 sailors of France, own 1,000 sail, and return 30,000,000 
 francs worth of fish. 
 
 The Grand Banks of Newfoundland are about fifty miles 
 east of Cape Race. They consist of vast sandbanks, on which 
 the water is fi-om thirty to sixty fathoms deep, and are 
 strewn with shells. Here are found innumerable cod-fish, 
 generally occupying the shallower waters over the sandy 
 bottoms, and feeding on the shoals of smaller fish below. Im- 
 mense fleets are engaged in the fisheries here, and it is estimated 
 that over 100,000 men are dependent on this industry. 
 
*" ISLES OF J>EMONS." 
 
 108 
 
 **Far off by stoniiy Liibradur- 
 
 Far off tho banks of Newfoundland, 
 Where the angry seas incessant roar, 
 
 And foggy mists their wings expand, 
 Tho fishing-schuunera, black and low. 
 For weary months sail to and fro." 
 
 In the Strait of Belle Isle are situated the lonely islands 
 of Belle Isle and Quirpon, of which weird legends are recorded. 
 They were called the Isles of Demons, and the ancient maps 
 represent them as covered with " devils rampant, with wings, 
 horns, and tails." These were said to be fascinating but mali- 
 cious, and Andrd Thevet exorcised them from a band of 
 stricken Indians by repeating a part of the Gospel of St. 
 John. The mariners feared to land on these haunted shores, 
 and " when they passed this way, they heard in the air, on 
 the tops, and about the masts, a great clamour of men's voices, 
 confused and inarticulate, such as you may hear from the 
 crowd at a fair or market-place ; whereupon they well knew 
 that the Isle of Demons was not far off." 
 
 This desolate island has now a lonely lighthouse — type of 
 many such amid those stormy seas. The following description 
 will apply, with little modification, to scores of such solitary 
 yet beneficent structures. 
 
 On its southern point is a lonely lighthouse, four hundred 
 and seventy feet above the sea, sustaining a fixed white light, 
 which is visible for twenty-eight miles. During the dense and 
 blinding snow-storms that often sweep over the strait, a cannon 
 is fired at regular intervals ; and large deposits of provisions 
 are kept here for the use of shipwrecked mariners. Between 
 December loth and April 1st there is no light exhibited, for 
 these northern seas are then deserted, save for a few daring 
 .seal-hunters. There is but one point where the island can be 
 approached, which is one and a half miles from the lighthouse, 
 and here the- stores are landed. There is not a tree, or even 
 a bush on the island, and coal is imported from Quebec to 
 warm the house of the keeper — who, though visited but twice 
 a year, is happy and contented. The path from the landing 
 is cut through the moss-covered rock, and leads up a long and 
 
104 
 
 NEWFOUNDLAND IN HISTORY. 
 
 steep ascent. Hundreds of icebergs may sometimes be seen 
 hence, moving in stately procession up the strait. 
 
 Newfoundland was one of the first discovered portions of the 
 New World, having been visited by Cabot in 1497, and named 
 Prima Vista — hence the English designation of Newfoundland. 
 The rich fisheries of the Grand Banks were soon visited by 
 hardy Breton, Basque and Norman fishermen. The name of 
 Cape Breton, found on some of the oldest maps, is a memorial 
 pf those early voyage^. After the discoveries of the rich har- 
 vest of the sea, which might be thus gathered, these valuable 
 fisheries were never abandoned. -As early as 1517, no less than 
 fifty French, Spanish and Portuguese vessels were engaged in 
 this industry. The spoils of the ocean from the fisheries of the 
 New World formed an agreeable addition to the scanty Lenten 
 fare of the Eoman Catholic countries of Europe. 
 
 In 1622, Lord Baltimore organized on the south and east 
 coast of the island the Province of Avalon, but soon forsook it 
 for the more genial climate and more fertile soil of Maryland. 
 Even previous to this time the jurisdiction of the coast was 
 given to a Britiiih oflScer, Captain Whitburn — ^the first of those 
 " fishing admirals," as they were called — who " governed the 
 island from their vessel's deck." 
 
 The appointment of those admirals was worthy of the infa- 
 mous Star Chamber, whence they originated. The law enacted 
 that the master of the first ship arriving at the fisheries from 
 England should be admiral of the harbour in which he cast 
 anchor, and that the masters of the second and third following 
 vessels were to be vice-admiral and rear-admiral respectively. 
 These admirals were empowered to " settle all disputes among 
 the fishermen, and enforce due attention to certain Acts of 
 Parliament." In their judicial character they would decide 
 cases according to their caprice ; frequently over a bottle of rum. 
 As a class, these masters of fishing vessels were rude and ignor- 
 ant men, and utterly unfit to act in the capacity of judges. Yet 
 this iniquitous system continued for nearly one hundred years, 
 when the Home Government was induced to send out a Gover- 
 nor with a commission, to establish some form of civil govern- 
 ment. Captain Henry Osborne, of H.M.S. Sqioirrel, was the 
 first constituted Governor of the island, 1728. 
 
COAST OF LABRADOR. 
 
 105 
 
 LABRADOR. 
 
 As this bleak coast belongs in large part to Newfoundland, 
 we give here a brief notice abridged from the authorities cited 
 in Osgood's admirable guide-book to the Maritime Provinces. 
 This vast region extends through ten degrees of latitude, and 
 more of longitude — a region larger than the whole of France, 
 Belgium and Switzerland. 
 
 The land is covered with low mountains, and barren plateaus, 
 on which are vast plains of moss, interspersed with rocks and 
 boulders. There are no forests, and the inland region is dotted 
 with lakes and swamps. The rivers and lakes swarm with 
 fish, and the whole coast is famous for its valuable fisheries of 
 cod and salmon. At least one thousand decked vessels are 
 engaged in the Labrador fisheries, and other fleets s.re devoted 
 to the pursuit of seals. The commercial establishments here 
 are connected with the great firms of England and the Channel 
 Islands. The Esquimaux population is steadily dwindling away, 
 and probably consist of four thousand souls. 
 
 "The coast of Labrador," says the Rev. S. Noble, "is the 
 edge of a vast solitude of rocky hills, split and blasted by the 
 frost, and beaten by the waves of the Atlantic, for unknown 
 ages. Every form into which rocks can be washed and broken 
 is visible along its almost interminable shores. 
 
 " It is a great and terrible wilderness of a thousand miles, and 
 lonesome to the very wild anitaals and birds. Left to the still 
 visitation of the light from the sun, moon, and stars, and the 
 auroral fires, it is only fit to look upon, and then be given over 
 to its primeval solitariness. But for the living things of its 
 waters — the cod, the salmon, and the seal — which bring thou- 
 sands of adventurous fishermen and traders to its bleak shores 
 Labrador would be as desolate as Greenland." 
 
 The following spirited verses by Whittier describe the adven- 
 turous life of the hi:.,^j touers of the sea" who, during the 
 fishing season, make populous those else lonely shores : 
 
 •'Wild are the waves which lash the reefs along St. George's bank; 
 Odd on the coast of Labrador the fog lies white and dank ; 
 Through storm, and wave, and blinding mist, stout are the hearts Tvhich man 
 The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. 
 
106 
 
 ANTICOSTI. 
 
 The cold north light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms, 
 Bent grimly o'er their straining lines, or wrestling with the storms; 
 Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roain, 
 They laugh to scum the slaver's threat against their rocky home. 
 
 Xow, brothers, for the icebergs of frozen Labrador, 
 I'Moating spectral in the moonshine along the low black shore ! 
 Where like snow the gannet's feathers on Brador's rocks are shed, 
 And the noisy murr are flying, like black scuds, overhead ; 
 
 Where in mist the rock is hiding, and the sharp reef lurks below, 
 And the white squall lurks in summer, and the autumn tempests blow ; 
 Where, through gray and rolling vapour, from evening until morn, 
 A thousand boats are hailing, horn answering unto horn. " 
 
 ANTICOSTI. 
 
 Though Anticosti belongs to Quebec, we may give it a para- 
 graph here. It is a very large island, one hundred and eighteen 
 miles long, and thirty-one wide. " The Anticosti Land Com- 
 pany," say ; Mr. Sweetser, " have designed to found here a new 
 Prince Edward Island, covering these peat-plains with pros- 
 perous farms. The enterprise has, as yet, met with but a 
 limited success. Anticosti has some woodlands, but it is for the 
 most parfc covered with black peaty bogs and ponds, with broad 
 lagoons near the sea. The bogs resemble those of Ireland, and 
 the forests are composed of low and stunted trees. The shores 
 are lined with great piles of driftwood and the fragments of 
 wrecks. The Government has established supply huts along 
 the shores since the terrible wreck of the Granicus, on the 
 south-east point, when the crew reached the shore, but could 
 find nothing to eat, and were obliged to devour each other. 
 None were saved." 
 
 The following is the terrible character given the island by 
 Eliot Warburton : " The dangerous, desolate shores of Anticosti, 
 rich in wrecks, accursed in human suffering, this hideous 
 wilderness has been the grave of hundreds ; by the slowest and 
 ghastliest of deaths they died — starvation. Washed ashore 
 from maimed and sinking ships, saved to destruction, they drag 
 their chilled and battered limbs up the rough rocks; for a 
 
ANTICOSTI. 
 
 107 
 
 moment, warm with hope, they look around with eager, strain- 
 ing eyes for shelter — and there is none; the failing sight 
 darkens on hill and forest, forest and hill, and black despair. 
 Hours and days waste out the lamp of life, until at length the 
 withered skeletons have only otrength to die." 
 
 id by 
 licosti, 
 Ideous 
 p and 
 Uhore 
 drag 
 I for a 
 

 Suspension Bridge, Falls of the St. Johk River, St. John, N.R 
 
i;::r-X. 
 
 ATE IV BRUNSWJCK. 
 
 109 
 
 i^i 'ill, 
 
 s»s^l 
 
 ■-«; 
 
 KETV BRUl^SWICK. 
 
 THE Province of New Brunswick contains an area of 
 27,105 square miles. It is a little larger than Holland 
 and Belgium, and about two-thirds the size of Great Britain. 
 Its four hundred miles of coast is indented by commodious and 
 numerous harbours, and it is intersected in every direction by 
 large navigable rivers. The country is generally undulating. 
 During the last fifty years over six thousand vessels have been 
 built in this province ; it is claimed to have more miles of rail- 
 way, in proportion to its population, than any country in the 
 world. According to the records of the British army, its 
 climate is one of unsurpassed salubrity. The fisheries, both of 
 the Atlantic and the Gulf ports, are of incalculable value, and 
 give employment to many thousands of hardy mariners. The 
 lumber industry is carried on on a vast scale on all the rivers, 
 and reaches, says a competent authority, the value of $4,000,000 
 a year. 
 
 I resume my personal reminiscences at the Missiguash River, 
 the boundary line between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, 
 on the eastern and western banks of which respectively are 
 situated the ruins of Fort Lawrence and Fort Cumberland. 
 
 FORT CUMBERLAND. 
 
 Crossing the river I climbed up the steep slope of Fort Cum- 
 berland, over masses of half -buried squared stones, once form- 
 ing part of the strong defences. A great crumbling breach in 
 the ramparts gave unimpeded entrance to a well-constructed 
 star-shaped fort, w^hose bastions and curtains were still in a 
 state of remarkably good preservation, and all were turfed 
 with softest velvet, and in the mellow afternoon light gleamed 
 like emerald. Grim-visaged war had smoothed his rugged front, 
 
no 
 
 FORT CUMBERLAND. 
 
 and the prospect was one of idyllic peace. I paced the ramparts 
 and gazed upon a scene of rarest beauty. The white-walled 
 houses and gleaming spires of Amherst and Sackville were about 
 equidistant on either side. In the foreground were fields 
 of yellowing grain, and stretching to the landward horizon was 
 the vast expanse of the deep green Tantramar and Missiguash 
 marshes — not less, it is said, than 60,000 fertile acres. Look- 
 ing seaward the eye travels many a league down the blue 
 waters of the Cumberland Basin. One solitary schooner was 
 beating up against the wind, and nearer land the white sails of 
 a few fishing-boats gleamed like the wings of sea-birds seeking 
 shore. A peculiarity of these marshes was, that they had no 
 dwelling-houses; but scores on scores of bams were dotted 
 over their surface, from which many hundred carloads of hay 
 are shipped every year. 
 
 Within the enclosure was a large and dilapidated old wooden 
 building, apparently once used as ofiicers' quarters. Beside it 
 was another, which had completely collapsed, like a house of 
 cards. I crawled into the old casemates and bomb-proofs, 
 built of large squared stones. Some of these were nearly filled 
 with crumbling debt'is. In others the arched roofs, seven bricks 
 in thickness, was studded with stalactites from the drip of over 
 a hundred years. 
 
 At one side of the fort was a large stone powder magazine. 
 It was about thirty feet square, with walls about four feet 
 thick. The arched roof, of solid stone, was of immense thick- 
 ness, and was overgrown with weeds. It seemed actually more 
 solid than the century-defying Baths of Garacalla at Rome. 
 Yet the arch was failing in, the walls were cracked as if by 
 earthquake, and a great hole yawned in the roof. It was 
 struck, I learned, a few years ago by lightning. A very large 
 well was near, but an air of disuse and utter desolation rested 
 upon everythmg. 
 
 SACKVILLE TO ST. JOHN. 
 
 It was a pleasant walk through shaded roads, and along the 
 dike side, to the fine old collegiate town of Sackville. One 
 of the most interesting features of the town is the group of 
 buildings of the Mount Allison University and Academies. 
 
TANTRAMAR MARSH. 
 
 Ill 
 
 The Centenary Memorial Hall is a perfect architectural gem, 
 both within and without ; and the view from the roof of the 
 Ladies' Academy, of the college campus and groups of build- 
 ings and their environments is one of never-to-be-forgotten 
 beauty. I much regret that I could not accept the kind 
 invitation of Professor Burwash to visit the Joggin's Shore, 
 where there is probably the finest geological exposure in the 
 world. In the cliffs, which vary from 130 to 400 feet in height, 
 may be seen a most remarkable series of coal beds, with their 
 intervening strata. Eighty-one successive seams of coal have 
 been fcund, seventy-one of which have been exposed in the sea 
 cliffs. Sir William Dawson estimates the thickness of the en- 
 tire carboniferous series as exceeding three miles. Numerous 
 fossil trees have been found standing at right angles to the 
 plane of stratification in these coal measures. One trunk was 
 twenty-five feet high and four feet in diameter. 
 
 The isthmus connecting Nova Scotia and New Brunswick is 
 only about fourteen miles at its narrowest part, and a canal 
 from Au Lac, near Sackville, to Bale Verte, or perhaps a ship- 
 railway, would save, in some cases, a navigation of some 
 hundreds of miles around the peninsula. 
 
 The great Tantramar Marsh extends for many a mile its 
 level floor, like a vast smooth bowling green. The home of 
 innumerable water fowl, and changing hue with the changes of 
 the seasons, it is not without its beautiful and poetic aspects, 
 which have been vividly caught and sketched by Prof. Roberts, 
 in the following lines of photographic fidelity : 
 
 Skirting the sunbright uplands stretches a riband of meadow, 
 Shorn of the labouring grass, bulwai-ked well from the sea, 
 Fenced on its seaward border with long clay dikes from the tuibid 
 Surge and flow of the tides vexing the Westmoreland shores. 
 Yonder, toward the left, lie broad the Westmoreland marshes, — 
 Miles on miles they extend, level, and grassy, and dim, 
 Clear from the long red sweep of flats to the sky in th" distance. 
 Save for the outlying heights, green-rampired Cumberland Point ; 
 Miles on miles outrolled, and the river-channels divide them, — 
 Miles on miles of green, barred by the hurtling gusts. 
 
 Miles on miles beyond the tawny bay is Minudie. 
 There are the low blue hills ; villages gleam at their foet. 
 
112 
 
 MONCTON. 
 
 Nearer a white sail shines across the water, and nearer 
 
 Still are the slim, gray masts of fishing boats dry on the flats. 
 
 Ah, how well I remember those wide red flats, above tide-mark 
 
 Palu with scurf of the salt, seamed and baked in the sun I 
 
 Well I remember the piles of blocks and ropes, and the net reels 
 
 Wound with the beaded nets, dripping and dark from the sea 1 
 
 Proceeding westward from Sackville, eleven miles, one passes 
 Dorchester, a pretty town on a rising slope ; its most conspicu- 
 ous feature being its picturesque-looking penitentiary. The 
 scenery is of a bolder character as we ascend the right bonk of 
 the Memramcook River, traversing a prosperous farming region, 
 occupied by over a thousand Acadian peasants. It is like a bit 
 of Lower Canada. Across the river is a large Roman Catholic 
 college, and near it is a handsome stone church. In the railway 
 car a priest was diligently reading his breviary, and a young girl 
 without the least self -consciousness was singing a Catholic hymn. 
 
 At Painsec Junction, passengers for Prince Edward Island 
 change cars for Shediac, and Point Du Ch^ne, pleasant villages 
 on Northumberland Strait. 
 
 The train soon reaches the prosperous town of Moncton, the 
 head-quarters of the Intercolonial Railway. It has a popula- 
 tion of about seven thousand, and gives abundant evidence of 
 life and energy. The central offices of the railway present a 
 very imposing appearance. The town is situated at the head 
 of navigation of the Petitcodiac River, and affords an oppor- 
 tunity to see the great " bore " or, tide-wave, for which the 
 place is famous. When the tide is out, there is only a vast 
 sloping mud bank on either side. At the beginning of flood- 
 tide, a wave of water from four to six feet high comes rolling 
 up the river, and within six hours the stream rises to sixty or 
 seventy feet. 
 
 At Moncton, the St. John branch of the Intercolonial bears oft' 
 at a right angle from the main line, to the chief city of the 
 province. It is a ride of three hours, through pleasant but not 
 striking scenery. 
 
 At Salisbury, connection is made with the Albert Railway < a 
 Hillsboro* and Hopewell, on the lower Petitcodiac. We soon 
 enter the famous Sussex Valley, a beautiful farming country. 
 
ST. JOHN. 
 
 113 
 
 The long upland slopes, flooded with the mellow afternoon 
 lif^ht, formed a very pleasant picture. From Hampton, a 
 branch railway runs to Quaco, a favourite sea-side resort, 
 where the red sandstone cliffs rise abruptly three hundred and 
 fifty feet from the water, commanding a noble view. Continu- 
 ing on the main line, we soon strike the Kennebecasis River — 
 the scene of many a famous sculling match — the hills rising on 
 either side in romantic beauty. The approach to the city of 
 St. John is exceedingly picturesque. Rich meadows, elegant 
 villas, and bold hills meet the eye on every side. I never before 
 saw such stacks of hay. I was told the crop reached four tons 
 to the acre. 
 
 la- 
 
 of 
 
 or 
 
 la 
 ya. 
 
 ry. 
 
 -^i.7.-^Qffitis^?5e^i3^^*;^..-- 
 
 ST. JOHN. 
 
 The most striking ap- 
 proach to St. John, how- 
 ever, is from the sea. 
 Partridge Island guards 
 the entrance to the har- 
 bour, like a stem and 
 rocky warder. We pass 
 close to the left, the 
 remarkable beacon light 
 shown in our engraving. 
 At low tide this is an 
 exceedingly picturesque 
 object. Its broad base 
 is heavily mantled with 
 dripping sea weed, and 
 its tremendous mass 
 gives one a vivid idea 
 of the height and force of the Bay of Fundy tides. Con- 
 spicuous to the left, is the Martello Tower, on Carleton 
 Heights, and in front, the many-hilled city of St. John. 
 Sloping steeply up from the water, it occupies a most com- 
 manding position, and its terraced streets appear to remark- 
 able advantage. It looks somewhat, says the author of 
 "Baddeck," in his exaggerated vein, as though it would slide 
 8 
 
 Beacon Light, St. John Harbour, 
 AT Low Tide. 
 
NOliU-: SIGHT. 
 
 115 
 
 
 
 off' the steep hillsi<le, if the liouses were not well inortiscil into 
 the solid rock. It is apparently Imilt on as many hills as Home, 
 and each of them seems to be crowned with a graceful spire. 
 
 Situated at the mouth of one of the largest rivers on the 
 continent, the chief point of ex])ort and import, and the gruat 
 distributing centre for a prosperous province, it cannot fail to 
 be a great city. It is indeed beautiful for situation. Seated 
 like a (jueen upon her rocky throne, it commands a prospect of 
 rarely equalled magnificence and loveliness. Its ships are on 
 all the seas, and it is destined V»y Nature to be, and indeed is 
 now, one of the great ports of the world. The huge wharves, 
 rendered necessary by the high ti<les, and the vessels left 
 .stranded in the mud by their ebb, are a novel spectacle to an 
 inlander. 
 
 There are few more graceful sights than a, large s(|uare- 
 rigged vessel, swaying, swan-like, in the breeze, and gliding on 
 her destined way before a favouring breeze. Small wonder 
 that Charles Dibbin's sea-.songs stir the pulses of the veriest 
 landsman with a longing for the sea. It must be the old Norse 
 blood of our viking ancestors that responds to the spell. 
 
 Since the great tire of 1877, which swept over two hundred 
 acres, and destroyed over sixteen hundred houses, its street 
 architecture has been greatly improved. Stately blocks of brick 
 and stone have taken the place of the former wooden struc- 
 tures. 
 
 Many of the new buildings are splendid specimens of archi- 
 tecture. The Custom House is one of which any city might be 
 proud. The Post Office, the churches, and numerous other 
 buildings, public and private, cannot fail to evoke admiration. 
 The city is naturally well adapted to show its buildings to the 
 best advantage, '^rith its streets wide, straight, and crossing 
 each other at right angles. A closer inspection does nob 
 dissipate the first favourable impression, and St. John is voted 
 a city of noble possibilities and delightful .surroundings. 
 
 The new Methodist, Anglican, and Presbyterian churches, 
 are beautiful stone structures, that would do credit to any city. 
 The Centenary Church has a noble open roof, and the elaborate 
 tracery of the windows is all in stone. The stained glass ir 
 
116 
 
 TIDE-FALL. 
 
 the windows is very fine. It is situated on the highest ground 
 in the city, and when its magnificent spire is erected will be the 
 moat conspicuous object in this city of churches. 
 
 St. John is essentially a maritime city. Its wharves are 
 always in demand for shipping, and vast quantities of lumber, 
 etc., are annually exported to other countries. It is, indeed, 
 the fourth among the shipping ports of the world, and St. John 
 ships are found in every part of the seas of both hemispheres. 
 
 
 
 31^ •* i 
 
 Timber Ship, leaving St. John. 
 
 Before the introduction of steam, its clipper ships had a fame 
 second to none, and voyages were made of which the tales are 
 proudly told even unto this day. 
 
 The great tide-fall gives curious effects when the tide is out; 
 the wharves rise so high above the water-level, and the light- 
 houses look so gaunt and weird standing upon mammoth 
 spindle-shanks, or the lofty ribs of their foundations bared to 
 the cruel air with tags of sea- weed fluttering from their crevices. 
 
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118 
 
 OLD FORT. 
 
 It is decidedly odd to see the carts drawn down to the market 
 slip, at low tide, between the stranded market boats that rest 
 upon their oosy beds. 
 In the environs of St. John there are several charming 
 
 drives. From the Mananoganish Road (the " Mahogany " road, 
 as it is often called), to reach which you have to cross the 
 Suspension Bridge, a curious effect is to be experienced. The 
 Mananoganish runs along the narrow strip of land between the 
 
FORT LA TOUR. 
 
 119 
 
 river and the sea, near the river's mouth ; and on one side of the 
 road the St. John, rolling almost at your feet, affords some 
 lovely glimpses of river scenery, while on the other side of the 
 road, also at your feet, the Bay of Fundy, with its cliffs and 
 islands and glistening sails, form a striking seascape with the 
 lines of the Nova Scotia coast visible forty miles away. This 
 is one of the most pleasant drives in the country. R turning, 
 the important suburb of Carleton, which lies across the harbour, 
 may be visited, and one may see the ruins of Fort La Tour. 
 Houses are built on this historic ground, and they are not by 
 any means imposing in their character ; slabs and sawdust are 
 numerous, and the air is at timet, pervaded with a decided odour 
 of fish. Such is Fort La Tour to-day ; such is the place where 
 lived and died " the first and greatest of Acadian heroines — a 
 woman whose name is as proudly enshrined in the history of 
 this land as that of any sceptered queen in European story." 
 The Marsh Road is also a favourite drive, on which one may 
 go along to Rothsay, on the brow of the bank of the Kenne- 
 becasis. If one wants to get a comprehensive view of all this 
 neighbourhood, let him climb the heights of Portland or of 
 Carlefon; but my selection as a viewing-point would be the old 
 dismantled fort behind the exhibition building, where, from 
 the carriage of a King George cannon, you can gaze on city 
 or bay. 
 
 The drives over the rocky hills in the vicinity of St. John 
 gives land and sea views of surpassing grandeur. One of the 
 finest of these drives is that to the Suspension and Cantilever 
 Bridges. These bridges, which combine an airy grace and rigid 
 strength, cross a rocky gorge, only 450 feet wide, at a height 
 of a hundred feet above low-water, into which the wide waters 
 of the St. John are compressed. 
 
 The Suspension Bridge was constructed through the energy of 
 one man, William K. Reynolds. Few besides the projector had 
 any faith in the undertaking, and he therefore assumed the 
 whole financial and other responsibility, not a dollar being paid 
 by the shareholders until the bridge vv^as opened to the public. 
 In 1875 the bridge was purchased from the shareholders by 
 the Provincial Government, and is now a free highway. It is 
 
120 
 
 FINE BRIDGES. 
 
 most impressive to look down upon the swirling, eddying tides, 
 flecked with snowy foam, and still more so to descend to the 
 water side, and view the surging current, and, high in air, the 
 graceful bridges. At low tide there is here a fall in the river 
 of about fifteen feet. At a certain stage of the tide, and for a 
 short time only, vessels may sail up or down over these falls, 
 and rafts, with risky navigation, can be floated into the har- 
 bour. That these seething eddies are not without dan- 
 ger was shown by the wreck of a good-sized vessel which lay 
 on her beam ends as we passed. 
 
 The St. John River at Low Tide. 
 
 It is curious that in the immediate vicinity of the two. most 
 remarkable suspension bridges in Canada^those at St. John 
 and at the Falls of Niagara — have been erected cantilever rail- 
 way bridges ; thus bringing into strong contrast the varying 
 principles of these two modes of bridge construction. The 
 main span of the cantilever bridge over the St. John is 825 
 feet. It was opened in 1885, and gives direct communication 
 between the New Brunswick railway system and the vast 
 system of the United States. 
 
MADAME LA TOUR. 
 
 121 
 
 ^^jgasrt*i^!^---f%i^^;^»*fi^^^2: 
 
 Martello Towee. 
 
 One of the finest marine views is that from the quaint, old, 
 feudal-looking Martello tower, on the summit of the highest 
 
 hill, on the Carleton 
 side of the harbour. 
 It gives a complete 
 bird's-eye view of 
 the shipping, and on 
 the seaward side the 
 broad Bay of Fundy, 
 and in the distance 
 the blue shores of 
 Nova Scotia, with 
 the deep gap at the 
 entrance to the An- 
 napolis Basin, known as the Digby Gut. I never realized be- 
 fore the force of Tennyson's fine line — 
 
 "The wrinkled sea beneath him crawled," 
 
 till I stood here and watched the broad expanse of wind-swept, 
 wave-marked water; every gust and flaw leaving its mark 
 upon the mobile surface. 
 
 HISTORIC MEMORIES. 
 
 The historic associations of St. John are of fascinating in- 
 terest. Its settlement dates back to the stormy conflict for 
 jurisdiction and trading rights of D'Aulnay and La Tour, in 
 the old Acadian days. The story of La Tour and his heroic 
 wife is one of the most interesting in the annals of the colonies. 
 The legend is one of the bits of iiistory in which St. John takes 
 special pride. Every one knows the story — how Madame, wife 
 of Charles St. Etienne de la Tour, one of the lords of Acadia, 
 under the French king, held that fort when it was attacked by 
 the rival lord of Acadia, D'Aulnay Charnizay, while her hus- 
 band was absent seeking help from the Puritans of Massachu- 
 setts ; and how she held it so well and bravely that she re- 
 pulsed the besieger until the treachery of one of her garrison, a 
 Swiss, placed her in D'Aulnay 's hands; and how all her garrison, 
 but the Swiss, were put to death ; and how Madame herself died, 
 
122 
 
 U. E. LOYALISTS. 
 
 from grief and ill-treatment, in nine days, before her husband 
 could arrive to her succour. • 
 
 The real founding of the present city dates from the close ot 
 the war of the American Revolution. Liberal provision was 
 made in the British Colonies for the reception of the U. E. 
 Loyalist refugees from the United States, and large land-grants 
 were allotted them. Considerable numbers came to Halifax, 
 Annapolis, Port Roseway (Shelbume), and other points. The 
 main body, however, settled near the St. John and Kenne- 
 becassis rivers. On the 18th of May, 1783, the ships bearing 
 these exiles for conscience' sake, arrived at the mouth of the 
 St. John. Here they resolved to found a new Troy, to hew out 
 for themselves new homes in the wilderness. The prospect 
 was not a flattering one. The site of the present noble city of 
 St. John was a forest of pines and spruces, surrounded by a 
 drearv marsh. The blackened ruins of the old French fort, 
 together with a block-house, and a few houses and stores, met 
 their gaze. Before the summer was over, a population of five 
 thousand persons was settled in the vicinity. 
 
 To the new settlement the name of Parrtown was given, in 
 honour of the energetic Governor of Nova Scotia. Soon the 
 Loyalists claimed representation in the Assembly of Nova 
 Scotia. This the Governor opposed, as his instructions pro- 
 hibited the increase of representatives. The settlers on the St. 
 John urged that their territory should be set apart as a separate 
 province, with its own representative institutions. They had 
 powerful friends in England, and the division was accordingly 
 made. The Province of New Brunswick was created, and 
 named in honour of the reigning dynasty of Great Britain, 1784. 
 
 In 1785, Parrtown became incorporated as the city of St. 
 John. It was thus the first, and, for many years the only, 
 incorporated city in British North America. The first session 
 of the House of Assembly was held in St. John in 1786, but 
 two years later, the seat of government was transferred to 
 Fredericton, eighty-five miles up the St. John River, as being 
 more central to the province, and in order to secure immunity 
 from hostile attack and from the factious or corrupting in- 
 fluence of the more populous commercial metropolis St. John. 
 
RIVER SCENES. 
 
 123 
 
 THE ST. JOHN RIVER. 
 
 The River St. John is navigable for steamers of large size 
 for eighty-five miles from the sea to Fredericton. Above 
 Fredericton smaller steamers ply to Woodstock, about seventy 
 miles farther ; and when the water is high, make occasional 
 trips to Tobique, a farther distance of fifty miles ; sometimes 
 reaching Grand Forks, a distance of two hundred and twenty 
 miles from the sea, with a break at the Grand Falls. This 
 noble river, with its branches, furnishes 1,300 miles of 
 navigable waters. At Fredericton it is larger than the Hudson 
 at Albany. It floats immense quantities of timber to the sea, 
 some of which is cut within sound of the guns of Quebec. 
 
 There can be nothing finer than the short trip up the river 
 from St. John on one of the day-boats that ply to Fredericton. 
 You embark at Indiantown, above the rapids, and sail out into 
 the stream, moving past a high overhanging clift', fir-crowned, 
 with limekilns nestling snugly on little beaches at its base. 
 There is a keen breeze, cool even when the thermometer is in 
 the nineties in the city. The boat is lively with a mixed com- 
 pany of passengers, bound for any landing stage or station be- 
 tween Indiantown and Grand Falls, or even Edmunston — for 
 the river is a favourite route, as far as it is available — to all 
 points in the neighbouring interior. 
 
 The St. John is a lordly river, almost as fine in scenic effect 
 as either the Hudson or the Rhine. It winds among its some- 
 times high, sometimes undulating, banks, through scenes of 
 majestic beauty. The land is mostly densely wooded, the foliage 
 of pine and larch and fir and maple waving gently in the breeze, 
 and everywhere the predominant pine and fir strongly mark- 
 ing the Canadian contour of the forests. Peaceful banks they 
 are, with here and there a quiet homestead reposing among 
 their curves, and here and there a rustic- looking lighthouse out 
 on a point, warning of shallows. 
 
 Fredericton, the capital, is pleasantly situated on the left 
 bank of the St. John. Its wide, elm-shaded streets, its large 
 and imposing Methodist church, its beautiful Christ Church 
 cathedral, its low rambling Parliament buildings, its sub- 
 
124 
 
 FREDERICTON. 
 
 
 stantial free-stone University, commanding a beautiful out- 
 look of the winding river — these are a pleasant memory 
 to the present writer. In company with the late Lieutenant 
 
 Governor Wilmot — one of the most brilliant orators and 
 statesmen New Brunswick ever produced — I visited the 
 many places of interest in the city, and was hospitably en- 
 tertained in his elegant home. Of scarce less interest was the 
 drive to Marysville, on the right bank of the river, the seat of 
 
THE UPPER ST. JOHN. 
 
 125 
 
 the great mills of Mr. Gibson, the " lumber king " of New 
 Brunswick. The octagonal Methodist church, beautifully 
 grained; carved, frescoed and gilt, with stained glass lantern 
 and windows— an exquisite architectural gem — is the free gift 
 of Mr. Gibson to the Methodist denomination. The com- 
 fortable homes erected for his workmen, and the high moral 
 tone of the village make this an ideal community. 
 
 It was a beautiful day in August, 1887, on which I made the 
 trip over the New Brunswick Railway from St. John to the 
 Grand Falls, a distance of one hundred and seventy miles. The 
 first part of the journey, after leaving the river, leads through 
 a dreary and monotonous region. The route via McAdam 
 Junction traverses a succession of dead or dying forests, 
 occasional clearings bristling with stumps, and stretches of tire- 
 swept trees. On reaching Woodstock, however, the change 
 was like one from Purgatory to Paradise. Bold wooded bluffs, 
 fertile fields of yellowing grain, and apple-laden orchards 
 delighted the eye and mind. The ride from Woodstock onward 
 was one of ideal loveliness. In the first place, for most of the way 
 the train was on the right side of the river, that is the side facing 
 the sun. It makes a vast difference whether one looks at a 
 landscape in direct or reflected light. In the former case the sun's 
 rays light up the grass and foliage with a vivid, living green. 
 In the latter case everything is of a much more subdued and 
 dull colour. 
 
 The views across the winding river, dimpling and sparkling 
 in long and shining reaches, with a noble back-ground of slop- 
 ing uplands, fertile fields, and comfortable-looking farmsteads, 
 presented a picture long to live in the memory. Woodstock, 
 Florenceville, and Tobique are pleasant towns upon the noble 
 river, with many lesser villages and hamlets. On we wound 
 on a shelf so high up on the river bank that we could in places 
 follow its windings for miles, crossing lofty trestles and catch- 
 ing brief glimpses of narrow glens between the hills, of quaint 
 little mills and sequestered nooks where, through the loop- 
 holes of retreat, one might undisturbed behold the busy world 
 go by. 
 
126 
 
 THE GRAND FALLS. 
 
 I 
 
 GRAND FALLS OF THE ST. JOHN. 
 
 As one approaches the Grand Falls the country becomes 
 wilder and more rujifged and more sterile. Here, in what I thought 
 would be a sort of Ultima Thule of civilization, I found a com- 
 fortable hotel with electric bells and all the modern improve- 
 ments. The Grand Falls far surpassed in size and sublimity 
 anything that I had anticipated. There is below the Falls a wild 
 and lonely gorge, worn during the long, slow ages by the 
 remorseless tooth of the cataract. It seemed as solitary as 
 some never-before-vi.sited ravine of the primeval world. Here 
 I found great " pot-holes," which I estimated roughly at forty 
 feet deep and twelve feet across, worn by the pounding and 
 scouring of big boulders under the action of the torrent. Sel- 
 dom have I seen such contorted, folded, twisted, tortured strata, 
 rising in places in buttressed cliffs from one hundred to two 
 hundred and forty feet high. The lines of cleavage were very 
 marked, and the resultant disintegration gave the ruck the ap- 
 pearance of remarkable cyclopean a'rchitecture. 
 
 Just below there was a huge log-jam which must await 
 the next freshet before it could be released. Every now and 
 then another bruised and battered log would go sweeping down 
 the arrowy rapids, writhing like a drowning man in his death- 
 struggle. The pines and spruces and shivering aspens clung to 
 the rocky wall and peered over the top of the cliff, whilst the 
 thunder of waters seemed to make the soHd rock to reel, and 
 a rich saffron sunset filled the sky. In this gorge the darkness 
 rapidly deepened, and a feeling of desolation, almost of terror, 
 made me glad to get away. 
 
 The view of the Falls themselves, from the graceful suspen- 
 sion bridge thrown across their very front, was almost more 
 impressive. Pale and spectral, like a sheeted ghost in the 
 gathering darkness, they gleamed ; and all night I could hear, 
 when I woke, their faint voice calling from afar. I have 
 before me a photograph of a great log-jam which took place 
 here a few years ago. The yawning gorge was filled up to the 
 very top of the Fall, fifty-eight feet high, and for a long dis- 
 tance, probably half a mile, below. The jam lasted a week, and 
 then was swept out in ten minutes with a rise of the waters. 
 
GRAND MAN AN. 
 
 127 
 
 he 
 is- 
 nd 
 
 The railway goes on to Edmunslon, forty miles fartner, 
 through a country peopled chiefly by Acadian French. They 
 are mostly engaged in lumbering and in farming the fertile 
 "intervales" by the river side. Every little village has its 
 group of quaint, old houses, and its large Roman Catholic 
 church. The river is here the boundary line between New 
 Brunswick and Maine, and the Canadian and American villages 
 face each other on its opposite banks. Few persons have any 
 conception of the vast extent of forest on the headwaters 
 of this great river — an extent seven times larger than that of 
 the famous Black Forest in Germany. It is about seventy 
 miles from Edmunston to Riviere du Loup, through a wild and 
 rugged country, the very paradise of the devotees of the rod 
 and gun. 
 
 The ravenous saw mills in this pine wilderness are not unlike 
 the huge dragons that used in popular legend to lay waste the 
 country ; and like dragons, they die when their prey, the lordly 
 pines, are all devoured. Returning from the Grand Falls I had 
 to get up at 3.15 on a dark and rainy morning to take the 
 " Flying Bluenose '* train /w^hich intercepts the " Flying Yan- 
 kee " from Bangor, and reaches St. John about mid-after- 
 noon. 
 
 Tourists in search of the picturesque should not fail to take the 
 trip from St. John to Possamaquoddy Bay and the Grand Manan 
 Island. The magnificent sea -worn, richly-coloured cliffs of 
 Grand Manan rising abruptly to the height of from three hun- 
 dred to four hundred feet, are at once the rapture and despair of 
 the artist. The quaint border towns of St. Andrew's and St. 
 Stephen's present many features of interest which well repay a 
 visit. St. Stephen's, at the head of navigation on the St. Croix 
 River, is a thriving town of some six thousand inhabitants, 
 and is connected by a covered bridge with Calais, an American 
 town of similar size. The people have always preserved 
 international friendship, even during the war of 1812-14. 
 
 Still more striking in its picturesqueness of aspect is the bold 
 scenery — the great bays and towering headlands — of the Gulf 
 coast. 
 
188 
 
 GREAT RIVERS. 
 
 !' 
 
 THE aULF COAST. 
 
 The great rivers on the Gulf coast are: the Miramichi, 
 
 navigable for vessels of 1,000 tons for twenty-five miles from 
 
 its mouth, for schooners twenty miles farther, and above this 
 
 point it is farther navigable for sixty miles for tow-boats ; and 
 
 The Cliffs— Grand Manan. 
 
 the Restigouche, a noble river three miles wide 
 at its mouth at the Bay of Chaleurs, and 
 navigable for large vessels for eighteen miles. 
 This river and tributaries drain about 4,000 
 miles of territory, abounding in timber and 
 other valuable resources. 
 
FOKKST J-/RICS. 
 
 129 
 
 *>.. 
 
 J 
 
 To reach this region we return to the main line of the Inter- 
 colonial Railway at Moncton. Kor some distance west of 
 Moncton the railway traverses an uninteresting country, cross- 
 ing the headwaters of the Richilmcto River, at some distance 
 from the flourishing fishing villages and tine farming settle- 
 ments on the Gulf coast. At Newcastle it crosses the two 
 branches of the Miramichi, on elegant iron bridges, each over 
 1,200 feet long. On these bridges nearly SI, 000,000 was spent, 
 much of it in seeking, in the deep water, foundations for the 
 massive piers. In any other country the Miramichi, flowing 
 two hundred miles from the interior, would be thought a large 
 river, but here it is only one among a numVior of such. Its 
 upper regions have never been fully explored. They are still 
 the haunt of the moose, caribou, deer, bear, wolf, fox, and 
 many kind of smaller game ; while the streams abound in the 
 finest fish. 
 
 In 1825 the Miramichi district was devastated by one of 
 the most disastrous forest fires of which we have any record. 
 A long drought had parched the forest to tinder. For two 
 months not a drop of rain had fallen, and the streams were 
 shrunken to rivulets. Numerous fires had laid waste the 
 woods and farms, and filled the air with stifling smoke. The 
 Government House at Fredericton was burned. But a still 
 greater calamity was impending. On the 7th of October, a 
 storm of flame swept over the country for sixty miles — from 
 Miramichi to the Bay of Chaleurs. A pitchy darkness covered 
 the sky, lurid flames swept over the earth, consuming the forest, 
 houses, barns, crops, and the towns of Newcastle and Douglas, 
 with several ships upon the stocks. Resistance was in vain 
 and escape almost impossible. The only hope of eluding the 
 tornado of fire was to plunge into the rivers and marshes ; and 
 to cower in the water or ooze till the waves of flame had passed. 
 The roar of the wind and fire, the crackling and crashing of 
 the pines, the bellowing of the terrified cattle, and the glare of 
 the conflagration were an assemblage of horrors sufficient to 
 appal the stoutest heart. When that fatal night had passed, 
 the thriving towns, villages and farms over an area of five 
 thousand square miles were a charred and blackened desolation. 
 9 
 

 130 
 
 "BAY OF HEATS." 
 
 A million dollars' worth of accumulated property was con- 
 aiumed, and the loss of timber was incalculable. One hundred 
 and sixty persons perished in the flames or in their efforts to 
 escape, and hundreds were maimed for life. The generous aid 
 of the sister provinces, and of Great Britain and the United 
 States, greatly mitigated the sufferings of the hapless inhabi- 
 tants, made homeless on the eve of a rigorous winter. 
 
 Bathurst is a pretty town on the Nepisiguit River, whose 
 rapids and falls, 140 feet h'gh, are well worth a visit. The 
 shooting of saw-logs over the falls, is an exciting scene. A 
 large business is done in shipping salmon on ice. The rail- 
 way now runs through a well-settled and beautiful country, 
 with a number of neat villages of French origin — Petite Roche, 
 Belledune, Jaquet River, and others. 
 
 BAY OF CHALEURS. 
 
 Soon we strike the magnificent Bay of Chaleurs — one of the 
 noblest havens and richest fishing grounds in the world — 
 ninety miles long and from fifteen to twenty -five miles wide. 
 I could not help thinking of that first recorded visit to this 
 lonely bay, three hundred and fifty years ago, when Jacques 
 Cartier, with Ms two small vessels, entered its broad expanse 
 and found the change from the cold fogs of Newfoundland to the 
 genial warmth of this sheltered bay so grateful that he gave it 
 the name of the Bay of Heats, which it bears to this aay. The 
 Indian name, however, "Bay of Fish," was still more appro- 
 priate. These waters are yearly visited by great fleets of 
 American fishermen from Gloucester and Cape Ood. We in 
 the West have little idea of the value of the harvest of the sea 
 in those maritime provinces, where it is often the best, or, in- 
 deed, the only harvest the people gather. It was in these 
 waters that the misdeed of Skipper Ireson, commemorated as 
 follows by Whittier, found its scene : 
 
 " Small pity for him ! — He sailed away 
 From a leaking ship in Chaleur Bay,— 
 Sailed away from a sinking wreck, 
 With his own townspeople on her deck I 
 ' Lay by 1 lay by ! ' they called to him ; 
 Back he answered, ' Sink or swim 1 
 
SKIPPER IRESON. 131 
 
 Brag of your catcli of fish again ! ' 
 And off he sailed through the fog and rain. 
 Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, 
 Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart 
 By the W(jr.ien of Marblehead. 
 
 •' Fathoms deep in dark Chaleur 
 That wreck shall lie forevermore. 
 Mother and sister, wife and maid. 
 Looked from the rocks of Marblehead 
 Over the moaning and rainy sea, — 
 Looked for the coming that might not be 1 
 Wljat did the winds and the sea-birds say 
 Of tho ci lel captain that sailed away ? — 
 Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, 
 Tarred and leathered and carried in a cart 
 By the women of Marblehead." 
 
 For many miles the railway runs close to the shore o*^ this 
 noble bay, its blue waters sparkling in the sun, 
 
 And like the wings of the sea birds 
 Flash the white-caps of the sea. 
 
 Around the numerous fishing hamlets in the foreground lay 
 boats, nets, lobster-pots and the like ; and out in the offing 
 gleamed the snowy sails of the fishing boats. A. branch rail- 
 way runs down the bay to Dalhousie, a pleasant seaside town 
 backed by noble hills. Dalhousie is a convenient point of de- 
 parture if one wishes to visit the famous land of Gasp<^, for 
 from it a steamer runs twice a week and calls at grand sport 'ng 
 places on the way. If one has a taste to visit Anticosti, h° will 
 find packets at Gasp^ to take hiin there, or should he desire to 
 see the quaint regions of the Magdalen Islands, he can easily get 
 there from Faspebiac. As the bay narrows into the estuary of 
 the Restigouche, the scenery becomes bolder and iiiore majestic. 
 Lest I should be accused of exaggerating its grandeur, I quote 
 the opinions of two other tourists : 
 
 THE RESTiaOUCHE. 
 
 " To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is pre- 
 sented one of the most superb and fascinating panoramic v iews 
 in Canada. The whole region is mountainous, and almost pre- 
 
CAMPBELLTON. 
 
 133 
 
 cipitous enough to be Alpine ; but its grandeur is derived less 
 from cliffs, chasms, and peaks, than from far-reaching sweeps 
 of outline, and continually rising domes that mingle with the 
 clouds. On the Gaspt^ side precipitous cliffs of brick-red sand- 
 stone flank the shore, so lofty that they seem to cast their 
 gloomy shadows half-way across the bay, and yawning with 
 rifts and gullies, through which fretful torrents tumble into the 
 sea. Behind them the mountains rise and fall in long undula- 
 tions of ultramarine, and, towering above them all is the 
 famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunlight like a 
 pp,le blue amethyst." 
 
 ' Th.> expanse of three miles across the mouth of the Resti- 
 ; ' A he, the dreamy Alpine land beyond, and the broad plain of 
 t!ie Lay of Chaleur, present one of the most splendid and fasci- 
 nnting panoramic prospects to be found on the continent of 
 America, and has alone rewarded us for the pilgrimage we have 
 made." 
 
 What a splendid panorama is enjoyed day by day by the oc- 
 cupants of the lonely farm-houses on the far hills looking over 
 the majestic bay. 
 
 Campbellton, an important railway and shipping point, is 
 situated at the head of deep water navigation. The river is 
 here a mile wide, and at its busy mills Norwegian vessels were 
 loading wi^Vi deals for British ports. Its situation is most ro- 
 mantic, V>rv t!\ ory side rise noble forest-clad hills, with far- 
 recedim, ,:^^^.<^ and valleys, winding into the distance — like 
 the mounl.u.iJ:; i Wales, said my travelling companion. As I 
 went to churcii ; ?. Sunday night the scene was irost impressive. 
 The solemn hills beguarded the town on every sii^o, w^aiting j,s 
 if for the sun's last benediction on their heads. The saffron .sky 
 deepened in tone to golden and purple. Twilight ;bj,dows 
 filled the glens and mantled over sea and .'»hore. I could not 
 help thinking, if you take the church spires and the religious 
 life thr^ represent out of our Canadian villages what a blank 
 you v.!^uid leave behind. How sordid and poor and mean the 
 life am: -wT.ht of the people would be. How narrow their 
 horizon, how merely animal their lives. 
 
 At Mission Point, across the river, is an Indian reservation. 
 
: •■ 
 
 134 
 
 MOUNTAIN VIEW. 
 
 with a population of five hundred Micmacs, and a Roman 
 Catholic church. At Campbellton is one of the cosiest inns I 
 have seen, not pretentious, but clean and comfortable. From 
 the neat dining-room one may look out of the window into the 
 tide-water, ebbing and flowing beneath it, where the fresh sal- 
 mon on the table may have been disporting a few hours before. 
 One never knows the true taste of salmon till he eats it fresh 
 from the sea in these tide waters. It is better even than the 
 famous Fraser River salmon of British Columbia. 
 
 The Resti- 
 gouche is one of 
 the great sal- 
 mon streams of 
 the world, and 
 is a popular re- 
 sort, during the 
 season, of the 
 devotees of the 
 " gentle craft " 
 from the chief 
 cities of Canada 
 and the United 
 States. 
 
 Before one 
 departs from 
 Campbellton he 
 should, if possi- 
 ble, climb Sugar 
 Loaf Mountain, 
 eight hundred 
 feet high, which 
 seems attrac- 
 tively near. The path is very steep and rugged, but the view 
 from the summit well repays the elfort. One can trace the 
 windings of the Restigouche up and down among the hills for 
 many miles. Here I saw the splendid spectacle of the approach 
 of a thunderstorm across the valley. The sun was shining 
 brilliantly everywhere except in the track of the storm. It 
 
 Sugar Loaf Mountain, Campbellton, N.B. 
 
OLD SAWMILL. 
 
 135 
 
 was grand to watch its approach, but when it wrapped one 
 in its wet and cold embrace, it rather threw a damper over 
 the fun. The trees were soon dripping — and so was I. I got 
 down rather demoralized as to my clothes, but having laid up 
 a memory of delight as an abiding possession. 
 
 The Restigouche, from its mouth to its junction with the 
 Metapedia, is the boundary line between New Brunswick and 
 Quebec. For over twenty miles above Campbellton we follow 
 its winding way between forest-clad hills. Before we cross the 
 border at Metapedia we will pause for a general glance at the 
 great province on which we are about to enter. 
 
 he 
 :or 
 ,ch 
 
 ng 
 It 
 
 :''Vi;^'rr.^.:-^' 
 
QUEBKC, 
 
 From the Citadel. 
 
 A Sketch math by Iler ]lo;ial Iliijk- 
 
 itess the PriiiccM Louise '* 
 
QUEBEC. 
 
 137 
 
 ^r^j^ 
 
 QUEBEC. 
 
 THIS province combines, in an unusual degree, magnificent 
 scenery, romantic interest, and thrilling historical asso- 
 ciations. It covers an area of 210,000 square miles, and is as 
 large as Norway, Holland, Portugal and Switzerland taken 
 together. The soil of much of this immense area is capable of 
 high cultivation, but a considerable portion of it is rocky and 
 infertile. In the cultivable regions the cereal grasses, root 
 crops, and many of the fruits of the temperate zones grow in 
 abundance and to perfection. In the southern parts of the 
 province Indian corn is a large crop, and fully ripens. Toma- 
 toes grow in profusion, and ripen, as do also many varieties of 
 grapes. Quebec has vast tracts of forest land and a very large 
 lumber trade. It is rich in minerals, including gold, silver, 
 copper, iron, plumbago, etc., and has, especially, immense deposits 
 of phosphate of lime, but it has no coal. It has large deposits 
 of valuable peat. Its fisheries are of immense extent, and 
 , are amongst the most valuable in the world. 
 
 The Province of Quebec is rich in minerals. Gold is found 
 in the district of Beauce and elsewhere. Copper abounds in 
 the Eastern Townships, and iron is found in many places. 
 Some very rich iron mines are being worked. Lead, silver, 
 platinum, zinc, etc., are found in abundance. The great deposits 
 of phosphate of lime, particularly in the Ottawa Valley, have 
 been already alluded to. These mines have been largely 
 worked, and large quantities of the phosphate have been ex- 
 ported. This mineral brings a high price in England, owing 
 to its high percentage of purity. 
 
 We will examine in detail the different parts of the province, 
 and will now proceed on our journey up the Metapedia Valley. 
 The junction of this river with the Restigouche presents one of 
 the most attractive scenes in the province. A bridge a thou- 
 
ir 
 
 If: 
 
 
 m 
 
 I 
 
 138 
 
 F/SH STORIES. 
 
 sand feet lon^ spans the larger river which we have been 
 following, commanding exquisite views both up and down. 
 Crossing this we enter the Province of Quebec. 
 
 THE METAPEDIA. 
 
 The Matapedia is said to be the finest salmon stream in the 
 world. At the railway station numerous sportsmen with their 
 hats wonderfully garnished with artificial flies, groups of 
 Indians and canoes, arid abundance of fishing gear indicate the 
 principal industry, if such it can be called, of the place. Though 
 no sportsman, I could appreciate as well as the best of them the 
 delicious, firm, flakey salmon and sweet wild strawberries which 
 were served up to the hungry travellers in the dining hall. 
 
 Mill Stream, Metapedia, Que. 
 
 A club of wealthy New Yorkers have built at Metapedia an 
 elegant club house, and hold a fishing lease on the river. I do 
 not profess to be an authority on fish stories, but it is oflScially 
 stated that salmon of from forty to fifty pounds and trout of 
 seven pounds are not uncommon. At Mill Stream, two men in 
 a single day secured nearly two hundred and fifty pounds of 
 trout, each trout averaging four pounds in weight. On the 
 Causapscal, a tributary stream, the Princess Louise caught a 
 forty pound salmon. I confess to a greater enjoyment of the 
 romantic scenery than of the craft of fishing. Here the sense 
 of beauty finds full gratification. The word Metapedia means, 
 it is said, "musical waters," and the river well deserves its name. 
 It has no less than two hundred and twenty-two rapids, great 
 
140 
 
 LAKE METAPEDiA. 
 
 
 and small, "now swift and deep, now gently rippling over beds of 
 shining gravel and golden sand." For over fifty miles we follow 
 its winding course, through green valleys as solitary almost, 
 save for the passing train, as those of a primeval world. The 
 bordering hills are not very high nor bold, but they present an 
 ever-varying and pleasing outline. Acres on acres of purple 
 bloom, with here and there patches of golden rod, fill the. 
 valleys, and the ever present pine and spruce and aspens 
 clothe the shaggy slopes. 
 
 Lake Metapedia, the fountain- 
 head of the river which bears the 
 same name, is thus described : — " It 
 is the noblest sheet of inland water 
 seen along the route. All lakes 
 have a beauty which appeals to the 
 imaginative minds, but this en- 
 shrined among the mountains must 
 impress the most prosaic 
 nature. About sixteen 
 miles in length, and 
 stretching out in 
 parts to the width of 
 live miles, its ample 
 area gives it a dig- 
 nity with which to 
 wear its beauty. 
 Embosomed on its 
 tranquil waters lie 
 isles rich in verdure, 
 while shores luxuriant with Nature's bounty make a fitting 
 frame to so fair a picture. He who has told us of Loch 
 Katrine could sing of this lake that 
 
 ' In all her length far winding lay, 
 With promontory, creek and bay, 
 And islands that, empurpled bright, 
 Floated amid the lovelier light ; 
 And mountains like that giants stand 
 To sentinel enchanted land.'" 
 
 On tue CATrsAPSCAt,, QoB. 
 
ABORIGINAL POETRY. 
 
 141 
 
 The names of the lakes and streams of the old Micmao 
 hunting ground are a philological study. Even 'as softened 
 down by English use they are far less musical than the names 
 given by the western and southern tribes on this continent. 
 We find nothing as soft for instance as the names Ontario, 
 Niagara, Toronto, Tuscarora, Ohio, Susquehanna, Alabama, and 
 the like. Some ingenious poet has endeavoured to weave the 
 sesquepedalian names into a "spring poem," as follows: 
 
 Hail Metapediac ! Upon thy shore 
 The Souriquois may sweet seclusion seek ; 
 Cadaraqui distracts his thoujjhts no more, 
 Nor seeks he gold from Souleamuagadeek. 
 
 Hail Restigouche and calm Causapscal, 
 
 Tartagu, Tobegote and Sayabec, 
 
 Amqiii, Wagansis, Peske-Ammik — all 
 
 The scenes which Nature doth with glory deck. 
 
 At Assametquaghan and at Upsalquitch 
 The busy beaver builds his little dam ; 
 His sisters, cousins, and his aunts grow rich 
 At Patapediac and Obstchquasquam. 
 
 I've wandered by the Quatawamkedgwick, 
 The Madawaska and the famed Loostook, 
 The Temiscouata, Kamouraska, Bic ; 
 I've climbed the hill of VVoUodadainook. 
 
 And everywhere do thoughts of spring arise, 
 Till this Algonquin doth an ode produce. 
 Hail, brother Mareschitos und Abnakicsl 
 Hail, balmy mouth of Amusswikizoos! 
 
 Gachepe and Kigicapigiok — 
 But here the powers of the language broke down. 
 
 THE ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 We now pass over a sufficiently dreary region till we come 
 to the watershed of the St. Lawrence. No country in the 
 world is approached by so majestic a waterway as the Province 
 of Quebec. It is hard to say wh§re the ocean ends and the 
 "great river of Canada," as Champlain calls it, begins. "It 
 
us 
 
 A NOliLE RIVER. 
 
 \i 
 
 t' 
 
 has its origin," says Moreau, "in a remarkable spring far up in 
 the woods, called Lake Superior, 1,500 miles in circumference, 
 and several other springs there are thereabout that feed it." 
 These comprise about one half of all the fresh wa^er on the 
 globe. Draining half a continent it pours its flood over the 
 mcst remarkable cataract and series of rapids in the world. 
 For 440 miles from Lake Ontario to Quebec it will average 
 about two miles in width, thence it gradually widens for 400 
 miles to what may be considered its mouth, to a breadth of 96 
 miles between Cape Rosier and Labrador. The tide is felt up 
 as far as Three Rivers, a distance of 430 miles. The majestic 
 cliffs on either shore form a worthy portal to this grandest of 
 rivers. Small wonder that its vastncss, and its stirring historic 
 memories awake the enthusiasm of the chivalrous race that 
 dwells upon its shores and call forth its poetic tribute: 
 
 *< Salut, 6 ma bolle patrie t 
 Salut, 6 bords du Saint- Laurent 
 Terre que I'^tranger envie, 
 Et qu'il rogrette en la quittant. 
 Heureux qui pent passer sa vie, 
 Toujours tidMe k te aevir ; 
 Et dans tes bras, m^re ch^rie, 
 Peut rendre son dernier soupir." 
 
 Mr. J. M. LeMoine, in his " Chronicles of the St. Lawrence," 
 quotes appropriately the following noble tribute to this noble 
 river: — "There is in North America a mighty river, having 
 its head in remote lakes, which, though many in number, are 
 yet so great that one of them is known as the largest body of 
 fresh water on the globe, — with a flow as placid and pulseless 
 as the great Pacific itself, yet as swift in places as the average 
 speed of a railway train. Its waters are pure and azure-hued, 
 no matter how many turbid streams attempt to defile them. It 
 is a river that never knew a freshet, nor any drying-up, no 
 matter how great the rain or snowfall, or how severe he 
 drought on all its thousand miles of drainage or of flow — and 
 yet that regularly, at stated intervals, swells and ebbs within 
 certain limits, as surely as the spring tides each year ebb and 
 flow in the Bay of Fundy — a river so rapid and yet so placid 
 
GULF OF ST, LA WRENCE, 
 
 143 
 
 as to enchant every traveller — so jyrancl and yet so lovingly 
 beautiful as to enthral every appreciative soul, — which rises in 
 a great fresh-water sea, and ends in the greater Atlantic — some 
 places sixty miles wide, at others less than a mile — a river that 
 never has yet had a respectable history, nor scarcely more than 
 an occasional artist to delineate its beauties. It lies, for a 
 thousand miles, between two great nations, a river as grand as 
 the La Plata, as picturesque as the Rhine, as pure as the lakes 
 of Switzerland. Need we say that this wonderful stream is 
 the St. Lawrence, the noblest, the purest, most enchanting river 
 on all God's beautiful earth." 
 
 Running far out to sea is the great peninsula of Qaspd, with 
 bold and rugged capes ond deep and quiet bays. " Cape 
 Despair," says Mr. Sweetser, "was named by the French Gaip 
 d'Eapoir, or Cape Hope, and the present name is either an 
 Anglicized pronunciation of this French word, or else was -^iven 
 in memory of the terrible disaster of 1711. During that year 
 Queen Anne sent a great fleet, with 7,000 soldiers, with orders 
 capture Quebec and occupy Canada. The fleet was under 
 Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker, and the army was commanded 
 by General Hill. During a black fog, on the 22nd of August, 
 a violent storm arose and scattered the fleet in all directions, 
 hurling eight large ships on the terrible ledges of Egg Island and 
 Cape Despair, where they were lost with all on board. Frag- 
 ments of the wrecks, called Le Naufrage Anglais, were to be 
 seen along the shores until a recent date ; and there was a wild 
 superstition among the fishermen to the effect that sometimes, 
 when the sea was quiet and calm, vast white waves would roll 
 inward from the Gulf, bearing a phantom ship crowded with 
 men in ancient military costumes. An officer stands on the 
 bow, with a white-clad woman on his left arm, and as tho 
 maddened surge sweeps the doomed [ship on with lightning 
 speed, a tremendous crash ensues, the clear, agonized cry of a 
 woman swells over the great voice of despair, — and naught is 
 seen but the black cliffs and the level sea." 
 
 "Perce Rock," continues this writer, "is 288 feet high, rising 
 precipitously from the waves, and is about 500 feet long. 
 This citadel-like cliff is pierced by a lofty arch, through which 
 
144 
 
 PERCE ROCK. 
 
 the long levels of the sea are visible. Small boats some- 
 times traverse this weird passage, under the immense Gothic 
 arch of rock. There was formerly another tunnel near the 
 outer point of the Rock, but its roof fell in with a tremendous 
 crash, and left a great obelisk rising from the sea beyond. 
 
 "The summit of the Percd ^l,ock covers about two acres, 
 and is divided into two great districts, one of which is inhabited 
 by gulls, and cormorants dwell on the other. If either of 
 these trespasses on the other's territory (which occurs every 
 fifteen minutes, at least), a bjottle ensues, th( shrill cries of 
 hundreds or thousands of birds rend the air, great clouds of 
 combatants hover over the plateau, and peace is only restored 
 bv the retreat of the invader, When the conflict is between 
 .arge flocks it is a scene worthy of close notice, and sometimes 
 becomes highly exciting." 
 
 i 
 
 FIRST EXPLORATiON OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 The lofty headland of Gasp^ tovvers 700 feet above the 
 waves. Here landed Jacques Gartier in the sultry midsummer 
 of 1534, and reared a huge cross bearing the lily shield of 
 France, and took possession of the country in the name of his 
 soverei ^n, Francis I. Learning from the natives of the great 
 river, leading so far into the interior that " no man had ever 
 traced it to its source," he sailed up the Gulf of St. Lawrence 
 till he could see the land on either side. The season being 
 advanced, he resolved to return, postponing further exploratiorx 
 till the following summer. 
 
 On Whit-Sunday, 1535, Cartier ai.d his companions rever- 
 ently attended h\<?h mass in the v<!nerable cathedral of St. 
 Malo. In the religious spirit of the age they received the Holy 
 Sacrament, and the bonediction of the bishop upon their under- 
 taking. The little squadron, dispersed by adverse winds, did 
 not reach the mouth of the St. Lawrence till the middle of 
 July. On the 10th of August, the festival of St. Lawrence, 
 Cartier entered a small bay, to which he gave the name of the 
 saint, rinee extended to the entire gulf and river. Passing the 
 gloomy gorge of the Saguenay, and sailing on beneath lofty 
 blutt's jutting out into the broad river, on the 7th of September 
 
 hi 
 
FOOTPRINTS OF FRENCH PIONEERS. 
 
 145 
 
 he reached the Island of Orleans, covered with wild grapes, 
 which he therefore named Isle of Bacchus. Seven days after, 
 having resolved to winter in the country, the little squadron 
 dropped anchor at the mouth of the St. Charles, where stood 
 the Indian town of Stadacona, beneath the bold clitf now 
 crowned with the ramparts of Quebec. 
 
 Eager to explore the noble river, Cartier advanced with fifty 
 men in his smallest vessel. Arrested by a sand-bar at Lake St. 
 Peter, ho took to his boats, with thirty of his companions, and 
 pressed onward, watching with delight the ever-shifting land- 
 scape of primeval forest, now gorgeous with autumnal foliage, 
 and the stately banks of the broad, swift river. On the 2nd of 
 October, he reached the populous Indian town of Hochelaga, 
 nestling beneath the wood-crowned height to which he gave 
 the name of Mont Royal, now Montreal. 
 
 Having ascended the neighbouring mountain, Cartier and his 
 companions surveyed the magnificent panorama of forest and 
 river stretching to the far horizon — a scene now studded with 
 towns and spires, farms and villages, and busy with the 
 thousand activities of civilized life. From the natives he 
 learned the existence, far in the west and south, of inland seas, 
 broad lands, and mighty rivers — an almost unbroken solitude, 
 X ^t destined to become the abode of great nations. Returning 
 to Quebec, the French prepared, as best they could, for the 
 winter, which proved of unusual severity. Scurvy of a malig- 
 nant type appeared. By the month of April, twenty-six of the 
 little company had died and were buried in the snow. The cruel 
 winter slowly wore away, and when the returning spring 
 released the imprisoned ships, the energetic commandc' re- 
 turned to France. 
 
 All over the continent, from the mouth of the St. Lavvrence 
 to the mouth of the Mississippi, the adventurous French pioneers 
 and explorers have left their footprints in the names of all the 
 saints in the calendar, bestowed on cape, and lake, and river and 
 mountain. On this historic shore, for instance, we have Capes 
 Ste. Madeleine, Ste. Anne, St. Paul, St. Felicitd, L'Assomption, 
 Ste. Flavie, St. Fabien, St. Ondsime, Ste. Marguerite, St. Denis, 
 St. Paschal, St. Pacome, St. Jean, St. Roch, St. Ignace, St. 
 
 10 
 
146 
 
 GRAND AND PETIT METIS. 
 
 Michel, St. Francois, St. Anselin, St. Joachim, L'Ange Gardien, 
 and many another holy name. 
 
 On the rocky shores of the Lower St. Lawrence are a large 
 number of fishing villages, in the rear of which a meagre agri- 
 culture is carried on. Further up we reach a number of 
 
 Gband and Petit Metis. 
 
 pleasant and popular summer bathing resorts. These are much 
 frequented by families from Quebec and Montreal, and even 
 from Toronto and places farther west. One of the first and 
 most attractive of these is Little Mdtis, reached by a drive of 
 six miles from the Intercolonial railway. 
 
OLD WORLD CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 147 
 
 The Grand and Little Mentis rivers offer attractive scenery 
 and picturesque waterfalls*. We are now in the heart of the 
 French country, which stretches from Gaspd to Beauharnois. 
 The aspect of the villages, and the daily life of the people, are 
 more like that of the Old World than anything else on this 
 continent. It is often far easier to fancy one's self in the 
 Breton or Picardy of the seventeenth century, than in the 
 plain, prosaic Canada of the nineteenth. The wayside crosses 
 and shrines, and the numerous tin-roofed, twin-spired parish 
 churches, "whence the angelus ringing, sprinkles with holy 
 sounds the air as a priest with his hyssop the congregation," 
 attest the prevalence of the Roman Catholic religion. Fre- 
 quently a huge cross on a hill-top indicates that we are in a 
 Temperance parish. 
 
 The following is the judicious account, by one who knows 
 them well, of the character of the habitants of New France : 
 
 sh 
 in 
 kd 
 
 THE HABITANTS. 
 
 "The railway and telegraph of the nineteenth century run 
 through a country in which hundreds of people are to all in- 
 tents and purposes in the seventeenth century. Not > their 
 disrespect be this said, but as showing the tenacity wiiii liicli 
 they adhere to their language, manners and customs. TIk 
 Canadian habitants are probably as conservative as any people 
 on earth. Where innovations are thrust upon them by the 
 march of progress they adapt themselves to the changes ; but 
 where they are left to themselves they are happy in the enjoy- 
 ment of the life their fathers led, and are vexed by no restless 
 ambition to be other than they have been. Their wants are 
 simple and easily supplied ; they live peaceful and moral lives ; 
 and they are tilled with an abiding love for their language and 
 a profound veneration for their religion. By nature light- 
 hearted and vivacious, they are optimists without knowing it. 
 Inured to the climate, they find enjoyment in its most rigorous 
 seasons. French in all their thoughts, words and deeds, they 
 are yet loyal to the British crown, and contented under British 
 rule. Their ancient laws are secured to them by solemn com- 
 pact ; and their language and religion are landmarks which will 
 
148 
 
 THE HABITANTS. 
 
 I 
 
 never be moved. In places where the English have established 
 themselves, some of the habitants understand the English lan- 
 guage, but none of them adopt it as their own. The mingling 
 of races has a contrary effect, and the English tongue often yields 
 to the French. There are many Englishmen in Quebec whose 
 children do not understand a word of their father's native 
 tongue ; but there are no Frenchmen whose children are ignor- 
 ant of the language of France. 
 
 " A traveller is very favourably impressed by the manners of 
 the country people. Many of them are in very humble circum- 
 stances ; books are to them a sealed mystery ; and their circum- 
 stances of life are not such as are supposed to conduce to refine- 
 ment of manners. Yet everywhere the stranger meets with 
 courtesy, and finds the evidence of true politeness — not mere 
 ceremonial politeness, but that which is dictated by sincerity 
 and aims at the accomplishment of a stranger's wishes as a 
 matter of duty. Where one does not understand the language 
 they will take great trouble to comprehend his meaning ; where 
 he can speak even indifferent French, he can make himself per- 
 fectly at home. 
 
 " As we thread this romantic region, everywhere is seen the 
 familiar church ; no hamlet is too poor to have a good one. 
 Should you seek the curd, you will find him a man whom it is 
 a pleasure to meec — well informed, affable, and full of the 
 praises of the land in which he lives. The habitants have a 
 sincere regard for their spiritual advisers, who are truly pastors 
 to their people, men whose lives are devoted to the well-being 
 of their flocks. They follow in the steps of the pioneer mission- 
 aries, whose heroic devotion in the past must forever bo honoured 
 by men of every creed." 
 
 We now proceed westward on our journey up the St. Law- 
 rence. 
 
 RIVER PORTS. 
 
 Rimouski is an important station on the Intercolonial, and 
 the place of connection with the ocean steamships, which stop 
 here to receive and deliver the mails, and to take on belated 
 passengers. The train runs down to the end of a pier, a mile 
 long, and a small steamer is employed as tender. Very lively 
 
STE. CECILE DU BIC. 
 
 149 
 
 id 
 le 
 
 work it often is to board the steamship, when wind and tide 
 roughen the waves. At Father Point, six miles below, so named 
 because Father Henri Nouvel wintered here in 1663, the 
 steamers are signalled as they pass. Rimouski is a thoroughly 
 French town of about two thousand inhabitants. The huge 
 cathedral and extensive seminary are the most conspicuous 
 features of the place. 
 
 Nine miles further west is Bic — I beg pardon — Ste. C^cile du 
 Bic is its proper and more euphonious name. This is, to our 
 mind, the most picturesque spot on the St. Lawrence. A bay 
 in which a navy might ride, is studded with rocky or tree-clad 
 islands, and begirt with crags of rugged beauty, and backed by 
 highlands rising thirteen hundred feet. The railway sweeps 
 around the mountain's flank, on a shelf hewn out of the rock 
 at a height two hundred feet above the village, commanding 
 splendid views of river and shore. Here, as Wolfe's fleet swept 
 up the river for the conquest of Quebec, when the English flag 
 was run up in place of the French ensign at the peak, a 
 patriotic old priest, who had hoped it was a fleet of succour, fell 
 lifeless to the ground. Here, too, more recently, during the 
 Trent trouble, an English man-of-war discharged men and 
 stores, when the upper river was closed by ice. Nor is the 
 place without its legends of Indian warfare. In a cave on 
 rislet au Massacre, two hundred Micmacs took refuge from a 
 hostile party of Iroquois, and were cut off" almost to a man. 
 Enough, however, escaped to rally a party who dogged the 
 Iroquois to death, inflicting, after the savage manner, cruellest 
 revenge. 
 
 The next place of interest is Trois Pistoles, where the rival 
 attractions to the hungry traveller are the well-equipped dining- 
 room, and the huge and elegant parish church. The legend goes 
 that the river takes its name from the fee demanded by the 
 old Norman ferryman for putting an urgent passenger over the 
 swollen stream. 
 
 At frequent intervals on these lateral streams will be found 
 the typical Canadian sawmill, as shown in our cut Occasion- 
 ally, when all the lumber has been consumed, the old deserted 
 sawmill falls into picturesque ruins, as shown on page 135, 
 
160 
 
 CACOUNA. 
 
 "where the rusty saw remains fixed, with its hungry teeth 
 imbedded in the great heart of the pine tree." 
 
 Cacouna is a quiet enough way-station during the greater 
 part of the year ; but during " the season," that is, in July and 
 August, it is one of the busiest on the line. Big trunks lumber the 
 platform, and crowded omnibuses fly to and fro. " Cacouna," 
 says Mr. Reynolds, "is papilionaceous. In the summer it 
 spreads its wings and is jubilant ; its shores are thronged by 
 
 Canadian Sawmill 
 
 I '; 
 
 the votaries of pleasure ; boats dance upon the water, the gay 
 and festive dance upon the land ; there is music in the air, and 
 brightness everywhere. In the winter, it subsides into an 
 ordinary village ; the natives sit alongside of two-story stoves 
 and dream of the coming summer ; empty houses abound ; and 
 the great hotel is abandoned to silence, to darkness, and to 
 Peter Donnegan." It is the fashion to call Cacouna the Sara- 
 toga of Canada. The Canadian Newport would be the better 
 name. The broad outlook and health-giving breezes of the St. 
 
THE CANADIAN NEWPORT. 
 
 151 
 
 Lawrence will forever prevent it becoming the mere fashion- 
 able resort that the former gay American watering place is. 
 Saratoga is one of the hottest, and Cacouna is one of the 
 coolest, summer resorts that I know. 
 
 Five and twenty years ago I spent a month here. Then it 
 was one of the quietest places in the Queen's dominions. I 
 brought a trunk full of books, and when I had read them all 
 I sent to Quebec for some more, which did not arrive till after 
 long delay. One can't bathe all the time, and, barring the walks 
 
 over the breezy 
 hills, it was a good 
 deal like going to 
 jail for a month, 
 or, at least, being 
 a prisoner "on the 
 bounds." But now 
 " Nous avons change 
 tout cela." It is cer- 
 tainly the gayest and 
 most popular watering 
 place in Canada. Here may 
 be seen, in all her glory, la 
 hdle Canadienve and her 
 English-speaking 
 cousin, who com- 
 bines all the grace 
 and beauty of the 
 Old World with th^ 
 vivacity and bril- 
 liancy of the New. 
 The great hotel, with 
 its six hundred guests, and several of the lesser ones, are scenes 
 of liveliest festivity. In the many covtages and peu^ions 
 people of quieter tastes will find abundant gratification. The 
 ubiquitous presence and obliging courtesy of the habitant gives 
 a fine foreign flavour to the .social atmosphere that is quite 
 piquant. I was complimenting one of the French " carters," as 
 they are called — a corrupiioa of charretier — on the steadiness 
 
 Falls of the Riviere r>v Loup, Que, 
 
152 
 
 RIVIERE DU LOUP. 
 
 V 
 
 of his little runt of a Canadian pony, when, with an eager 
 grimace, he replied, " Oiti, oui, monsieur, il et trea tranquille." 
 
 Six miles from Cacouna is the important river port and rail- 
 way station of Riviere du Loup. Its name is said to be de- 
 rived from the fact that many years ago it was the resort of 
 great droves of seals — loups-marins — who frequented the 
 shoals at the mouth of the river. It is, at all events, a pleas- 
 anter derivation than the suggested one from the ill-visaged 
 wolf of the forest. The place abounds in picturesque scenery. 
 The falls shown in our vignette, about eighty feet of a descent, 
 with the fine background of the Intercolonial railway bridge, 
 make a very striking picture. A long and strong pier juts far 
 out into the river, and is a favorite promenade and an im- 
 portant place of call for steamers. The sunset view across the 
 river of the pearly-tinted north shore, twenty miles distant, is 
 very impressive. Frequently will be seen a long, low hull, 
 from which streams a thin pennon of smoke, where the ocean 
 steamer is making her swift way, outward or homeward bound. 
 Nearer the spectator the sails of the fishing craft gleam rosy red 
 in the sunset light, and then turn spectral pale like sheeted 
 ghosts. This is the only place where I ever saw fishing with a 
 rifle. When the white-bellied porpoises, and sometimes whales, 
 gambol and tumble amid the waves, they are often shot by ex- 
 pert marksmen. They are frequently twenty feet long, and 
 will yield a hundred gallons of oil. 
 
 THE SAGUENAY. 
 
 Nearly opposite Riviere du Loup there flows into the St. 
 Lawrence, from the northern wilderness, one of the most re- 
 markable rivers on the face of the earth, the storied Saguenay. 
 It is not formed by erosion of the rocks as is the gorge of the 
 Niagara. It receives no tributaries as do other rivers, except the 
 considerable stream, the Chicoutimi, and a few minor ones. 
 It is manifestly an enormous chasm rent in the old primeval 
 rock, up and down which flows forevermore the restless tide. It 
 is also the deepest river in the world, a line of one hundred 
 and fifty fathoms failing in some places to reach the bottom. 
 The banks, for nearly the whole distance, are an uninterrupted 
 
THE SAGUENAY. 
 
 153 
 
 series of towering cliffs, in many places as perpendicular as a 
 wall, varying from 300 to 1,800 feet high. 
 
 A sense of utter loneliness and desolation is the predominant 
 feeling in sailing up the river. The water in the deep, brown 
 shadow of the cliff is of inky blackness. Where broken into 
 spray it looks like an infusion of logwood. It makes one 
 irresistibly think of Styx and Acheron, those black-flowing 
 streams of Tartarus. 
 
 On either side arise " bald, stately bluffs that never wore a 
 smile." On through scenes of unimaginable wildness, or of 
 stern and savage grandeur that thrill the soul, we glide. All is 
 lone and desolate, as though we were the first who sailed on the 
 enchanted stream. A deathly spell seems to mantle over it, 
 reminding one of 
 
 *' That lone lake whose gloomy shore 
 Skylark never warbled o'er." 
 
 From the mouth of the river to Ha Ha Bay, I saw hardly 
 a single indication of life. For miles and miles not a house, 
 nor fence, nor field, nor bird, nor beast met the eye. In the 
 whole route I saw but one solitary water-fowl. After passing 
 through this gorge of desolation, terror-haunted, the early voya- 
 geura burst into a glad Ha ! Ha ! as they glided into the smiling 
 bay which retains the name so singularly given. 
 
 Near the mouth of the river a rocky island, fantastically 
 named TSte de Boule, lifts its enormous bulk above the waters. 
 "It stands amid stream thoughtfully apart," like the stern 
 warder of this rocky pass, an if questioning our right to invade 
 this solitary, lone domain. 
 
 Onward still we glide over the sullen waters, past a thousand 
 towering bluffs, either of naked desolation or densely covered 
 with dwarf pines wherever they can find a foothold, climbing 
 upward, hand in hand, or in stern phalanx of serried rank be- 
 hind rank to the mountain's top, while from the precipice's 
 lofty brow, impish-looking cedars peer timorously down into the 
 gloomy gulf below. 
 
 As we thread the tortuous stream, ever and anon the way 
 appears to be impeded by " startling barriers rising sullenly 
 
154 
 
 GRAND CUFFS. 
 
 from the dark deep," like genii oi; the rocky pass, as if to bar 
 
 our progress, but 
 
 " — meet them face to face, 
 The magic doors fly open and the rocks recede apace. " 
 
 Stern and dark and reticent they stand, like the drugged 
 giants in the German cave of Rutli, by beck nor sign betraying 
 the secrets of their rocky hearts. " From their sealed granite 
 lips there comes tradition nor refrain." They keep forevermore 
 their lonely watch 
 
 " — year after year, 
 In solitude eternal, rapt in contemplation drear." 
 
 Capes Trinity and Eternity, River Saodenay. 
 
 With what a reverential awe they stand — the brown waters 
 laving their feet, the tleecy clouds veiling their broad bare fore- 
 heads, the dark forests girdling their loins ; their grave, majestic 
 faces furrowed by the torrents, seamed and scarred by the 
 lightnings, scathed and blasted by a thousand storms. 
 
 They make one think of Prometheu.s, warring with the eternal 
 elements upon Mount Caucasus ; of Lear, wrestling with storm 
 and tempest; or, more appropriately still, of John the Baptist, in 
 his unshorn majesty, in the wilderness. 
 
 Capes Trinity i:nd Eternity, the two loftiest bluffs, are respec- 
 tively 1,600 and 1,800 feet high. The latter rises perpendicu- 
 larly out of the fathomless waters at its base. It has some- 
 
ROCK ECHOES. 
 
 155 
 
 what the outline of a huge, many-buttressed Norman tower. 
 But so exaggerated are the proportions, so apparently inter- 
 minable the perpendicular lines upon its face, that it seems 
 rather the work of the Titans, piling Pelion upon Ossa, and 
 seeking to scale the skies. As the steamer lay at the foot of 
 the cliff it seemed dwarfed to insignificance by the vast size of 
 the rock. The steam-whistle was repeatedly blown. Instantly 
 a thousand slumbering echoes were aroused from their ancient 
 lair, their hoar " immemorial ambush," and shouted back their 
 stern defiance. How they rolled and reverberated among the 
 ancient hills. How inconceivably grand must it be when all 
 the artillery of heaven are bellowing through the air, and the 
 lightnings flash, like the bright glancing of the two-edged 
 sword that guards the gates of Paradise, and these mountain 
 sides are clothed with all the drapery of the storm. 
 
 To my mind, the loveliest features of the scenery are the 
 little rills that trickle down the mountain sides, 
 
 " Like tears of gladness o'er a giant's face." 
 
 They suggest all manner of whimsical similes. Now they 
 are like a virgin veil, hiding the mountain's forehead ; now like 
 a white hand waving welcome through the distance ; now like 
 the joyous flashing of a snowy brow, crowned with fadeless 
 amaranth ; now the pallid gleam of a death-cold forehead, 
 wreathed with funeral asphodel ; now the tossing of a warrior's 
 plume ; now the waving of a flag of peace ; now as one plunges 
 down the bank it shakes its white mane like a war-horse taking 
 his last leap ; now one bounds with panting, breathless, leopard- 
 like, impetuous leaps adown the rugged rocks, like a rash 
 suicide eager to plunge into the cold, dark -flowing river of 
 death ; now stealthily and insidiously one glides serpent-like 
 among the moss or concealed amid the matted foliage, betrayed 
 only by its liquid flash. 
 
 At the mouth of the river is the delightfully picturesque 
 village of L'Anse a I'Eau. It is a wildly romantic spot, as com- 
 pletely isolated from civilization as one could wish. Nestling 
 in the embrace of the grand old hills, it receives the smile of the 
 sun as a child held up in its mother's arms to receive its father's 
 
156 
 
 TA DO US AC. 
 
 kiss. The village, with its curved roofs and overhanging eaves, 
 all whitewashed, has a very Swiss-like appearance. 
 
 In a little bay, separated by a ledge of rocks from L'Anse & 
 I'Eau, is the old French hamlet of Tadousac, one of the first 
 settlements of the Jesuit fathers. Here are the old buildings 
 and rusty cannon of a Hudson's Bay post. In strong contrast 
 are the large summer hotel and the elegant villas erected by 
 Lord Duff'erin and others. I here visited the first church 
 erected in Canada, 1G71. It is of wood, quite small and very 
 antique, is much weather-worn, and is truly venerable in ap- 
 pearance. It has some fine paintings and a quaint old altar. 
 
 "r««tfi*tf*--^-. 
 
 Old Chdrch, Tadousac. 
 
 ' <i 
 
 The steamboat goes about a hundred miles up this marvellous 
 river to Chicoutimi, the head of navigation. It is the great 
 shipping point of the lumber districts. Sixty miles north-west 
 of Chicoutimi is the Lake of St. John, first visited in 1647 by 
 Father Duquen. It is a lake of largo area, receiving the waters 
 of eight considerable streams. 
 
 Mr. Price, M.P., states that a missionary has recently dis- 
 covered, high upon the Saguenay (or on the Mistassini), an an- 
 cient French fort, with intrenchments and stockades. On the 
 inside were two cannon, and several broken tombstones dating 
 from the early part of the sixteenth century. It. is surmised 
 
A STKANGE STREAM. 
 
 157 
 
 that these remote memorials mark the last resting-place of the 
 Sieur Roberval, Viceroy of New France, wh > (it is supposed) 
 sailed up the Saguenay in 1543, and was never heard from 
 afterwards. 
 
 At Ha Ha Bay large quantities of lumber arc loaded upon 
 British and Scandinavian ships, and a flourishing trade is car- 
 ried on in the autumn by sending farm-produce and blueberries 
 to Quebec, — " the latter being packed in cofRn-shaped boxes and 
 sold for ten to twenty cents a bushel." 
 
 "So broad and stately is this inlet," .says Mr. Sweetser, "that 
 it is said the early French explorers ascended it in the belief 
 that io was the main river, and the name originated from 
 their exclamations on reaching the end, either of amusement at 
 their mistake or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of the 
 meadow.s." 
 
 Of this strange stream Bayard Taylor thus writes : 
 
 " The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It is a tremendous 
 chasm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft 
 for sixi^ miles through the heart of a mountain wilderness. No 
 mag','''' .Uusions of atmosphere enwrap the scenery of this 
 northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Dark- 
 gray cliffs of granitic gneiss rise from the pitch-black water ; 
 firs of gloomy green are rooted in their crevices and fringe their 
 summits ; loftier ranges of a dull indigo hue show themselves 
 in the background, and over all bends a pale, cold, northern sky. 
 The keen air, which brings out every object with a crystalline 
 distinctness, even contracts the dimensions of the scenery, 
 diminishes the height of the cliffs, and apparently belittles the 
 majesty of the river, so that the first feeling is one of disap- 
 pointment. Still, it exercises a fascination which you cannot 
 resist. You look, and look, fettered by the fresh, novel, savage 
 stamp which nature exhibits, and at last, as in St. Peter's or at 
 Niagara, learn from the character of the separate features to 
 appreciate the grandeur of the whole. 
 
 " Steadily upwards we went, the windings of the river and 
 its varying breadth giving us a shifting succession of the 
 grandest pictures. Shores that seemed roughly piled to- 
 gether out of the fragments of chaos overhung us, — great 
 
158 
 
 CAPES TRINITY AND ETERNITY. 
 
 masses of rock, gleaming duskily through their scanty drapery 
 of evergreens, here lifting long irregular walls agains^ ^he sky, 
 there split into huge, fantastic forms by deep lateral gorges, up 
 which we saw the dark-blui) crests of loftier mountains in the 
 rear. The water beneath us was black as night, with a pitchy 
 glaze on its surface ; and the only life in all the savage solitude 
 was, now and then, the back of a white porpoise, in some of the 
 deeper coves. The river is a reproduction, on a contracted 
 scale, of the fiords of the Norwegian coast. The dark moun- 
 tains, the tremendous precipices, the fir forests, even the settle- 
 ments at Ha Ha Bay and L'Anse ^ I'Eau (except that the 
 houses are white instead of red) are as c^'npletely Norwegian 
 as they can be." 
 
 This strange river was probably the bed of son,.8 primeval 
 glacier, for its lofty precipices of syenitic gneiss are grooved 
 and scratched with the deep striae, indicating long continued 
 ice action. 
 
 The tremendous rock masses of Capes Trinity and Eternity 
 are thus described by the graphic pen of Bayard Taylor : " These 
 awful cliffs, planted in water nearly a thousand feet deep, and 
 soaring into the very sky, form the gateway to a rugged 
 valley, stretching inland, and covered with the dark primeva' 
 forest of the North. I doubt whether a sublimer picture 
 of the wilderness is to be found on this continent. The dun- 
 coloured syenitic granito, ribbed with vertical streaks of black, 
 hung for a moment directly over our heads, as high as three 
 Trinity spires atop ol! one anothex. Westward, the wall ran in- 
 land, projecting bastion after bastion of inaccessible rock, over 
 the dark forests in the bed of the valley." 
 
 Cape Trinity, it is said, actually impends over its base 
 more than one hundred feet, " brow-beating all beneath it, and 
 seeming as if at any moment it would fall and s^erwhelm 
 the deep black stream which flows so cold and stealthily below." 
 
 When the " Flying Fish " ascended the river with the Prince 
 of Wales, one of her heavy sixty-eight-pounders was fired off 
 near Cape ''^rinity. " For the apace of half a minute or so after 
 the discharge there was a dead silence, and then, as if the 
 report and concussion were hurled back upon the decks, the 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ;-:■■' 
 
''THE SAMSON OF THE S AGUE NAY." 
 
 169 
 
 echoes came down crash upon crash. It seemed as if the rocks 
 and crags had all sprung into life under the tremendous din, 
 and as if each were firing sixty-eight-pounders full upon us, in 
 sharp, crushing volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and 
 hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellowing slowly, carry- 
 ing the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hill, till all the 
 distant mountains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." 
 
 Our Canadian poet, Sangster, thus apostrophises those stupen- 
 dous cliffs : 
 
 ** Nature has here put on her royalest dress. 
 And Cape Eternity looms grandly up, 
 Like a God reigning in the wilderness 
 Holding coniinuniun with tlie distant cope, 
 Interpreting the stars' dreams, as they ope 
 Their silver gates, where stand his regal kin. . . 
 
 •* Strong, eager tliouglits come crowding to my eyes, 
 
 Earnest and swift, like Romans in the race, 
 
 As in stern grandeur, looming up the skies, 
 
 This Monarch of the Bluifs, ' with kingly grace, 
 
 Stands firmly fixed in his eternal place, 
 
 Like the great Samson of the Saguenay, 
 
 Tlie stately parent of the giant race 
 
 Of mountiiins, scattered — thick as ocean's spray 
 Sown by the tempest— up this granite-guarded way. 
 
 " My lips are mute. I cannot speak the thought 
 
 That, like a bubble on the placid sea, 
 
 Brusts ere it tells the tale with which 'tis fraughb. 
 
 Another comes, and so, eternally, 
 
 They rise in h(jpe, to wander spirit-free 
 
 Above the earth. 'Twere best they should not break 
 
 The silence, which itself is ecstasy 
 
 Or godlike elo(juence, or my frail voice shake 
 A single echo, the expressive calm to break." 
 
 " In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac 
 by Pontgravd and Chauvin, to whom this country had been 
 granted. They built storehouses and huts, and left sixteen 
 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but several of these 
 died and the rest fled into the forest. Two subsequent attempts 
 * Trinity Rock — a stupondous mass of granite. 
 
 ■■^WV-'*'*'-'*--'^*.-*- 
 
160 
 
 SOUTH SHORE VILLAGES. 
 
 within a few years ended as disastrously. In 1 628 the place 
 was captured by Admiral Kirke, and in 1632 his brother died 
 here. In 1658 the lordship of this district was given to the 
 Sieur Demaux, with the dominion over the country between 
 Eboulements and Cape Cormorant. Three years later the 
 place was captured by the Iroquois, and the garrison was mas- 
 sacred. In 1690 three French frigates, bearing the royal 
 treasure to Quebec, were chased in here by Sir William Phipps's 
 New-England fleet. They formed batteries on the Tadousac 
 shores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessels up 
 through the swift currents, and the French fleet was saved." 
 
 Returning to Riviere du Loup, we will proceed westward by 
 the south shore, and afterward describe the interesting places 
 of resort on the north shore. The Intercolonial Railway runs 
 for the most part at some distance from the river, but, at times, 
 we are in full view of its shining reaches, and almost always of 
 the bold Laurentian range on the op"[)osite shore. The first 
 place of interest is Notre Dame du Portage, so named because 
 here a cro.ssing was formerly made over the height of land to 
 the upper waters of the Wallastook, or Saint John river. Then 
 comes the pretty village of Kamouraska, reached by a drive 
 of five miles from St. Paschal station. Here the great church 
 of St. Louis and an extensive convent attract the attention. A 
 little to the west is the ill-omened Cap au Diable, and soon we 
 reach the Riviere Quelle, named from Madame Houel, who was 
 held in captivity by the Indians in the seventeenth century. 
 Here is the quaint Casgrain manor house, over a hundred years 
 old. Ste. Anne de la Pocatifere is a thriving town of three 
 thousand inhabitants, about seventy-two miles below Quebec. 
 It has a large convent and a college, with thirty professors and 
 a stately pile of buildings. It has also an agricultural school 
 and a model farm. For many a mile the stately mass of Les 
 Eboulements, on the north shore, is full in view. In the sun- 
 set light it seems transfused into a glowing mass of opal and 
 pearl. 
 
 Montmagny, with its two thousand inhabitants and large 
 college, commemorates an old historic name — that of an early 
 Viceroy of New France, the great " Onontio," or " Big Moun- 
 
CROSSE ISLE. 
 
 161 
 
 IQ 
 
 y 
 
 tain," as the Indians translated his name. Goose and Crane 
 Islands, in the vicinity, sound more romantic under their 
 French names — Isle aux Oies, and Isle aux Grues. Grosse Isle, 
 the quarantine station of Canada, is a place of saddest memories. 
 It has been described as a " vast tomb," so many have been the 
 immigrants who have reached these shores only to die, poisoned in 
 the filthy and crowded ships. This was in the days when it took 
 twelve weeks to cross the Atlantic, and when typhus, or small- 
 pox, or cholera, were the not unfrequent companions of the 
 voyage. "In a single grave," says Mr. LeMoine, "seven thou- 
 
 CiTV OF Quebec. 
 
 sand, in the time of the ship-fever, were buried." But now, 
 in ten days, in health and comfort, well fed and well cared for, 
 the immigrant is transferred from his old to his new home. 
 
 Berthier, St. Valier, St. Michel, Beaumont, and other villages, 
 whose very names have a poetic sound, are strung along the 
 shining St. Lawrence, like pearls upon a necklace. The river 
 winds between the fair and fertile Island of Orleans and the bold 
 south .shore, an almost continuous settlement of white-walled, 
 white-roofed houses, with, every five or six miles, a large parish 
 church. This is one of the longest settled parts of Canada, and 
 almost every cape or village has its historic or romantic legend. 
 The view from either rail-car or steamer, as one passes the 
 11 
 
162 
 
 MAL BAIL. 
 
 If; 
 
 it 
 
 '51: 
 
 western end of the Island of Orleans, is one of the grandest on 
 the continent — one of the grandest in the world. To the ex- 
 treme right, waving and shimmering in the sunlight like a 
 bridal veil, is the Fall of Montmorenci. To the left are the 
 rugged heights of Point Levi, and there, full in view, are the 
 stately cliffs of Quebec, crowned with bastions and batteries, and 
 " flowering into spires." Few spots on earth unite in such 
 wonderful combination, majestic scenery, and thrilling historic 
 memories. 
 
 THE NORTH SHORE. 
 
 I return now to describe the rugged scenery of the north 
 shore of the St. Lawrence. The sail by one of the local river 
 steamers, or, better still, by one of the market boats calling at 
 the several landing places, i.s a very easy and pleasant way of 
 "doing" the Lower St. Lawrence. But to get the full flavour 
 of the quaint, Old World life of the habitants, and to get near 
 to Nature's heart in some of he: sublimest moods, we would 
 recommend a drive along the post road in one of the native 
 carriages or caliches ; or, still better, a tramp with knapsack on 
 back. It would not be hard to imagine one's self in the Artois 
 or Picardy of a hundred years or more ago. 
 
 From the Saugenay to Quebec is a distance of some hundred 
 and forty miles. The first forty miles is pretty rugged and in- 
 hospitable. The pedestrian tourist will probably be willing to 
 begin his westward tramp at Murray Bay, or Mai Bale, so called 
 by Champlain, on account of its turbulent tides, the Cacouna of 
 the north shore. At this place all the steamers call, both going 
 up and down. The town, with its three thousand inhabitants, 
 clusters around the great church near the bridge across the 
 Murray River. The hotels are at Point a Pic, where the steamer 
 calls at a long wharf, and summer cottages extend several miles, 
 down to Cap k I'Aigle. 
 
 Mr. LeMoine, who has described with loving minuteness the 
 chief scenes on this storied river, thus records his impression of 
 beautiful Mai Bale : " Of all the picturesque parishes on the 
 shore of our grand river, to which innumerable swarms of 
 tourists go every summer, none will interest the lover of sublime 
 landscapes more than Mai Bale. One must go there to enjoy 
 
EBOULLEMENS. 
 
 163 
 
 the rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. He 
 will not find here the beautiful wheat fields of Kamouraska, the 
 pretty and verdurous shores of Cacouna or Rimouski, where 
 the languorous citizen goes to strengthen his energies during 
 the dog-days; here is savage and unconquered nature, and 
 view-points yet more majestic, than those of the coasts and 
 walls of Bic. Precipice on precipice ; impenetrable gorges in 
 the projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in 
 the clouds, and among which the bears wander through July, in 
 search of berries; where the caribou browses in September; 
 where the solitary crow and the royal eagle make their nests in 
 May; in short, alpine landscapes, the pathless Highlands of Scot- 
 land, a Byronic nature, tossed about, heaped up in the North, 
 far from the ways of civilized men, near a volcano that from 
 time to tirpe awakens and shakes the country in a manner to 
 frighten, but not to endanger, the romantic inhabitants. Ac- 
 cording to some, in order to enjoy all the fulness of these 
 austere beauties, one must be at the privileged epoch of life. 
 If then you wish to taste, in their full features, the dreamy soli- 
 tudes of the shores, the grottos, the great forests of Point £i 
 Pique or Cap k I'Aigle, or to capture by hundreds the frisking 
 trout of the remote Gravel Lake, you must have a good eye, a 
 well-nerved arm, and a supple leg." 
 
 For many a mile the mighty mass of Les Eboullemens, the. 
 loftiest peak, save one, of the Laurentides, " old as the world," 
 rising to the height of 2,457 feet, dominates the landscape. 
 Grouped around the parish church, high on the mountain slope, 
 is the pretty village of Eboullemens, thus apostrophised by our 
 Canadian singer, Sangster : 
 
 " Eboullemens sleeps serenely in the arms 
 Of the maternal hill, upon whose breast 
 It lies, like a sweet, infant soul, whose charms 
 Fill some fond mother's bosom with that rest 
 Caused by the presence of a heavenly guest." 
 
 oy 
 
 A conspicuous feature of the steamboat landing is the immense 
 wharf, nearly a thousand feet long. Running for several miles 
 between the rugged mountains of the north shore and the 
 
164 
 
 ISLE AUX COUDRES. 
 
 smiling Isle aux Coudres, so named from the abundance of hazel 
 trees it contains, the steamer rounds into the beautiful St. Paul's 
 Bay, one of the loveliest spots on the whole river. 
 
 " St. Paul's delightful bay, fit mirror for 
 The stars, glows like a vision which the wind 
 Wafts by some angel standing on the shore. 
 
 As bless'd as if he trod heaven's star-enamelled floor. 
 
 '* Those two majestic hills* kneel down to kiss 
 The village at their feet ; the cottages, 
 Pearl-like and glowing, speak of humfvn bliss. 
 With a low, eloquent tongue. Fit symbols these 
 Of a diviner life — of perfect ease 
 Allied to blessed repose. The church spire looks, 
 Like a sweet promise smiling through the trees; 
 While far beyond this loveliest of nooks. 
 
 The finely-rounded, swells dream of the babbling bfooks." 
 
 The land route leads over the shoulder of the mountain, com- 
 manding magnificent outlooks over the broad, sail-studded 
 river. The picturesque valleys of the Moulin and Gouffre 
 rivers present many pleasant vistas of mountain scenery : " In 
 all the miles of country I have passed over," says Ballantyne, 
 " I have seen nothing to equal the exquisite beauty of the Vale 
 of Bale St. Paul. From the hill on which we stood, the whole 
 valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. It was perfectly 
 level, and covered from end to end with hamlets, and several 
 churches, with here and there a few small patches of forest. 
 Like the Happy Valley of Rasselas, it was surrounded by the 
 most wild and rugged mountains, which rose in endless succes- 
 sion one behind the other, stretching away in the distance, till 
 they resembled a faint blue wave in the horizon." The Isle aux 
 Coudres, it is claimed, is more purely mediaeval in its character 
 than any other region in Canada, and its people exhibit a 
 charming remnant of old Norman life. Here, according to a 
 statement of Jacques Cartier, the first mass ever celebrated in 
 Canada was said on September 7th, 1535. 
 
 The next settlement is the populous village of St. Francois 
 Xavier. For some distance west of this the grim Laurentian 
 
 * At Little St. Paul Bay — one of the most delightful pictures on the route. 
 
CHATEAU BELLEVUE. 
 
 165 
 
 range rises so abruptly from the water's edge that there is room 
 for neither road nor houses. Of this region Bayard Taylor 
 says : " We ran along the bases of headlands, 1,000 to 1,500 feet 
 in height, wild and dark with lowering clouds, gray with rain, 
 or touched with a golden transparency by the sunshine, — alter- 
 nating belts of atmospheric effect, which greatly increased their 
 beauty." He is quite below the mark in his estimate, for some 
 of these rise to an altitude of over 2,00) feet 
 
 St. Joachim, twenty-seven miles from Quebec by the land 
 route, is the next village. From this point to Quebec the road is 
 full of interest. Those who cannot walk or drive over the whole 
 route that we have been describing, will find that this part of it 
 will best repay their trouble. It can best be visited from the 
 ancient capital. Near by is the old Chateau Bellevue, and be- 
 hind it the lofty promontory of Cape Tourmente, 1,919 feet 
 high, which for nearly a century has been crowned with a 
 gigantic cross. The magnificent prospect from its summit is 
 thus photographed by the vivid pen of Parkman : " Above the 
 vast meadows of the parish of St. Joachim, that here borders 
 the St. Lawrence, there rises like an island a low flat hill, 
 hedged round with forests, like the tonsured head of a monk. 
 It was here that Laval planted his school. Across the meadows, 
 a mile or more distant, towers the mountain promontory of 
 Cape Tourmente. You may climb its woody steeps, and from 
 the top, waist-deep in blueberry bushes, survey from Kamou- 
 raska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below ; 
 or mount the neighbouring heights of Ste. Anne, where, athwart 
 the gaunt arms of ancient pines, the river lies shimmering in 
 summer haze, the cottages of the habitants are strung like 
 beads of a rosary along the meadows of Beauprd, the shores of 
 Orleans bask in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of 
 Quebec rests like a faint gray cloud ; or traverse the forest till 
 the roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky solitude where it 
 holds its savage revels. . . . Game on the river ; trout in 
 lakes, brooks, and pools; wild fruits and flowers on the meadows 
 and mountains ; a thousand resources of honest and healthful 
 recreation here await the student emancipated from his books, 
 but not parted for a moment from the pious influence that hangs 
 
166 
 
 LA BONNE STE. ANNE. 
 
 about the old walls embosomed in the woods of St. Joachim 
 Around on plains and hills stand the dwellings of a peaceful 
 peasantry, as different from the restless population of the 
 neighbouring States as the denizens of some Norman or Breton 
 village." 
 
 Five miles west of St. Joachim is the miracle-working 
 shrine of La Bonne Ste. Anne — the favourite resort of religious 
 pilgrims in the New World — unless, indeed, a single shrine 
 in Mexico may surpass it in this respect. The relics of Ste. 
 Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary, are exhibited in a crystal 
 globe, and are said to cause most miraculous cures. For over 
 two centuries pilgrims have visited this sacred shrine — some- 
 times as many as twenty-four thousand in a single summer. 
 Great sheaves of crutches are exhibited as proofs of the mira- 
 culous cures said to be effected. There is no reason to doubt 
 that, in many cases, nervous affections may be temporarily, or 
 even permanently, relieved through the influence of a vivid 
 imagination or a strong will. But so have they also by the 
 charlatanry of mesmerism, spirit-healing and the like. 
 
 I quote again from Parkman's brilliant pages : " Above all, 
 do not fail to make your pilgriiDage to the shrine of St. Anne. 
 Here, when Aillebout was governor, he began with his own 
 hands the pious work, and a habitant of Beaupr^, Louis Gui- 
 mont, sorely afflicted with rheumatism, came grinning with pain, 
 to lay three stones in the foundation, in honour probably of St. 
 Anne, St. Joachim, and their daughter, the Virgin. Instantly 
 he was cured. It was but the beginning of a long course of 
 miracles continued more than two centuries, and continuing still. 
 Their fame spread far and wide. The devotion to St. Anne be- 
 came a distinguishing feature of Canadian Catholicity, till at 
 the present day at least thirteen parishes bear her name. 
 Sometimes the whole shore was covered with the wigwams 
 of Indian converts, who had paddled their birch canoes from 
 the farthest wilds of Canada. The more fervent among them 
 would crawl on their knees from the shore to the altar. 
 And, in our own day, every summer a far greater concourse of 
 pilgrims, not in paint and feathers, but in cloth and millinery, 
 and not in canoes, but in steamboats, bring their offerings and 
 their vows to the ' Bonne St. Anne.'" 
 
COTE DE BE A UP RE. 
 
 167 
 
 Behind the town rises the loftiest peak of the Laurentides, 
 Ste. Anne Mountain, 2,GS7 feet high. 
 
 Seven miles beyond Ste. Anne is the thriving village of 
 Ch^eau Richer, with a population of about two thousand. On 
 a bold bluff above the village rises the spacious parish church, 
 commanding a magnificent view of the river, the white villages 
 and shimmering tin roofs and spires, th6 Island of Orleans and 
 the north shore. Near Chateau Richer, on a rocky promontory, 
 are the remains of an old Franciscan monastery, founded about 
 169.5. Five miles further, and we reach the pretty village of Ange 
 Gardien, nestled in a sheltered glen, around a venerable parish 
 church. The parish was founded by Bishop Laval over two 
 hundred years ago. 
 
 From Ange Gardien to Quebec is almost one continual village, 
 so numerous are the little farm steadings, each, with narrow 
 front, running far back from the road. The quiet, little inns 
 resemble the quaint auberges of Brittany or Normandy. Mr. 
 Sweetser well I'emarks: " No rural district north of Mexico is 
 more quaint and mediaeval than the Beaupr^ road, with its 
 narrow and ancient farms, its low and massive stone houses, 
 roadside crosses and chapels, and unprogressive French popula- 
 tion. But few districts are more beautiful than this, with the 
 broad St. Lawrence on the south, and the garden-like Isle of 
 Orleans ; the towers of Quebec on the west, and the sombre 
 ridges of Cape Tourmente and the mountains of Ste. Anne and 
 St. Fereol in advance." 
 
 Thoreau, the American nature-student, made a pedestrian 
 tour through this region, and thus records his impressions. He 
 quotes the Abbe Ferland, as saying: "In the inhabitants of 
 Cote de Beaupr^ you find the Norman peasant of the reign of 
 Louis XIV., with his annals, his songs, and his superstitions ; " 
 and adds, " Though all the while we had grand views- of the 
 country far up and down the river, and when we turned about, 
 of Quebec, in the horizon behind us — and we never beheld it 
 without new surprise and admiration — yet, throughout our 
 walk, the Great River of Canada on our right hand was the 
 main feature in the landscape, and this expands so rapidly 
 below the Isle of Orleans, and creates such a breadth of level 
 
ISLAND OF ORLEANS. 
 
 IGi) 
 
 u 
 
 n 
 
 m 
 
 
 surface above its waters in that direction, that looking down 
 the river as we approached the extremity of that island, the 
 St. Lawrence seemed to be opening into the ocean, though 
 we were still altout 825 miles trom what can bo called its 
 mouth." 
 
 The intervention of even a mile of water gives a mental and 
 social, as well as physical, isolation. 8o the large and fertile 
 Island of Orleans, even less than the mainland, exhibits signs 
 of the progress of the age, and its knhiiiinl^ " still retain inncli 
 of the Norman simplicity of the early settlers under Champlain 
 and Frontenac." It is twenty miles long and five and a half wide, 
 and contains about fifty thousand acres. It especially excels in 
 the quality of its fruit. There are good roads, and several in- 
 teresting villages on the island, which will well repay a visit. 
 On the north shore, in 1825, were built the colossal timber-.ships 
 the Columbus 3,700 tons, and th»' Baron Revfrew, .S,000 tons, 
 the largest vessels that the world had seen up to that time. 
 
 Mr. Sweetser tells the following remarkable story: " The 
 Boute des Pr^trea runs north from St. Laurent to St. Pierre, and 
 was so named tifty years ago, when this church had a piece of 
 St. Paul's arm-bone, which was taken away to St. Pierre, and 
 thence was stolen at night by the St. Laurent people. After 
 long controversy, the Bi-shop of Quebec ordered that each 
 church should restore to the other its own relics, which was 
 done upon this road in the presence of large processions, the 
 relics being exchanged at the great black cross midway on the 
 road." 
 
 QUKBEC. 
 
 The most beautiful approach to Quebec is that by the river 
 St. Lawrence from below the city. I think I never in my life 
 saw any sight of such exquisite loveliness as the view of this 
 historic spot when sailing up the river at sunrise. The num- 
 erous spires and tin roofs of the city caught and reflected the 
 level rays of the sun like the burnished shields of an army 
 hurling back the javelins of an enemy. The virgin city seemed 
 like some sea-goddess rising from the waves with a diamond 
 tiara on her brow ; or like an ocean-queen seated on her 
 sapphire-circled throne, stretching forth her jewelled hand across 
 
170 
 
 QUEBEC. 
 
 the sea and receiving tribute from every clime. The beautiful 
 suburbs of Beauport, Ciiiltcau Richer and L'Ange Clardiun 
 seemed in the distance like the snowy tents of a vast encamp- 
 ment beleaguering the city, or, in more peaceful simile, like a 
 tlock of milk-white sheep pasturing upon the green hill-sides. 
 As wo rounded the point of the fertile Island of Orleans, the 
 lovely Fall of Montmorenci burst upon the view. Like the 
 snowy veil of a blushing bride, it hung seemingly motionless in 
 the distance, or but slightly agitated as if by half-suppressed 
 emotion. 
 
 ■ sinjsu.A.jji.ti^ 
 
 Quebec ik 1837. 
 
 There is an air of quaint medievalism about Quebec that 
 pertains, I believe, to no other place in America. The historic 
 associations that throng ai'ound it, like the sparrows round its 
 lofty towers, the many reminiscences that beleaguer it, as once 
 did the hosts of the enemy, invest it with a deep and abiding 
 interest. But its greatness is of the past. The days of its 
 feudal glory have departed. It is interesting rather on account 
 of what it has been than for what it is. Those cliffs and bas- 
 tions are eloquent with associations of days gone by. They 
 are suggestive of ancient feuds now, let us hope, forever dead. 
 These walls, long laved by the ever-ebbing and flowing tide of 
 human life, are voiceful with old-time memories. 
 
ITS irALLS. 
 
 171 
 
 Tho prominent feature in the topr)<»raphy of Quebec is Cape 
 Diamond. It rises almost perpendicularlj' to a lu;it,'lit of throe 
 hundred feet above tho lower town. It is crowned by the im- 
 pregnable citadel, whose position and strenj;th iiave gained for 
 the city the aohriipwt — the (Jibraltar of America. 
 
 The cliff on which the city stands is somewhat the shape of 
 a triangle, the two sides of which are formed by the rivers St. 
 Lawrence and St. Charles, while the base of the triangle is 
 formed by the Plains of Abraham, west of the city. Hei-e was 
 fought the battle whereby Quebec was wrested from the French 
 in 1759. The river fronts are defended by a continuous wall 
 on the very brow of the cliff, with flanking towers and bastions, 
 all loop-holed for musketry and pierced for cannon. The west 
 side, toward the level plain, has a triple wall — or rather had, for 
 much of it has been demolished — faced with masonry, running 
 zig-zag across the plain, with deep, wide trenches between. 
 The inner wall was sufficiently higher than the others to allow 
 the heavy cannon which it mounts to rake the entire glacis in 
 case of assault or attempted escalade. These grass-grown ram- 
 parts are now a favourite promenade for the citizens, and play- 
 ground for the children. 
 
 In the soft afternoon light of a lovely summer day I drove 
 
 out to the Plains of Abraham 
 and the battle-field of Ste. Foye. 
 The bouldered and billowy plain 
 on which was lost to France and 
 won to Great Britain the sover- 
 eignty of a continent, seemed 
 desecrated by the construction 
 of a racecourse, and the erection 
 of a prison. On the spot made 
 famous forever by the heroism 
 of the gallant young conqueror, 
 who, for England's sake, freely 
 laid down his life, a rather meagi'e monument asserts, " Here 
 Wolfe died victorious." 
 
 Wolfe's Old Monument. 
 
m 
 
 3 1' i 
 
 II ■■ 
 
 3 M !«■ I 
 
 •ilul 
 
 11 
 
 ill 
 
 !;!-■■ .' 
 
 
 II' 
 
 H: 
 
 
 Old Poi'LARS 
 
 AND TAKT OF 
 
 LoWKR IIa.MI'AHTS, 
 
/7;s- MEMORIES. 
 
 17.'^ 
 
 ITS STORIED PAST. 
 In the eveninf:^, from thegrass-fjrown and crnniblinL,' miiiparts 
 on tlic landward side of Quebec, I belioM a niagniHceiit sunset 
 over the beautiful valley of the St. Charles. Hverytliing 
 spoke, not of battle's stern array, but of the gentle reitJtn of 
 peace. CJrim-vi.saired war had smoothed his rugijfod fiont, 
 and instead of rallying throngs of armed men, groups of gay 
 holiday makers sauirtere<l to and fro. InstMl of watchful 
 .sentries uttering their stern challenge, y(mth.s and maidens 
 softly repeated the olden story first toUl in the sinless bowers 
 of paradise. Ravelins anil demilunes were crumbling into 
 ruin. Howitzer and culverin lay dismounted (m the ground, 
 and had become the playthings of gleeful children. Insteail of 
 the rude alarms of war, strains of festive music tilled the air. 
 Slowly .sank the su" 
 to the .serrated hor- 
 izon, while a rolling 
 .^ea of mountains 
 deepened from pearl 
 gray in the t'ore- 
 jjfround to darkest 
 purple in the dis- 
 tance. The whole 
 valley was flooded 
 with a <:old»'n radiance. The winding river, at \vhos<' mouth 
 Jacques Cartier wintered bis ships well nigh three hundred 
 an<l fifty years ago, beneath tlw- fading light, like the waters 
 of the Nile under the rod of Mose.s, .seemed changing into 
 blood. Till! criuison and yi/Mn\ banners of the sky re- 
 flected the passing glory. TJw soft ringing of the Angelu. 
 floated in silvery tones upon the air, and told that the <lny was 
 dying. 'I'be red sun-.set and the rich after-glow filled the 
 heaven.s. 'J'he long sweep of sli< re to Beaupoit and ^b)ntlllo- 
 renci, and the .shadowy hills, faded away in the gathering dusk. 
 Lights gleamed in cottage homes, on the ships swingiiiir with 
 the tidi', and in the sky above, and were retlecte 1 in the wavi'S 
 beneath ; and the solemn night came down. 
 
 On my way home tw my lodgings through the silent and 
 
 •Sll 1.1,1. (iLN^ 
 
i'i 
 
 ■I 
 
 l:r: 
 
 ■ ■- - 
 
 U- 
 
 
 "■'W ■ 
 
 
 
 ■» \ 
 
 
 m 
 I& 
 
 h 
 
 ■A ■- 
 
 
 Km 
 
 
 IT 
 
 ^ 
 
 tiLL— 
 
JESUITS AND RECOLLETS. 
 
 175 
 
 moonlit city, I sat down on the steps of tlie old Jesuit college, 
 long used as a barracks for the British troops, and then in pro- 
 cess of demolition. As I sat in the moonlight I endeavoured 
 to people the dim cloisters and deserted quadrangle with the 
 ghosts of their former inhabitants — the astute, and wily, and 
 withal heroic men who, from these halls, so largely controlled 
 the religious and political destiny of the continent. Here they 
 collected the wandering children of the forest whom they in- 
 duced to forsake paganism and to l>ecome Christians. From 
 hence they started on their lonely pilgrimages to carry the gospel 
 of peace to the savage tribes beyond Lakes Huron and Supeiior, 
 on the head waters of the Mississippi and in the frozen regions 
 of Hudson's Bay. It was long the rendezvous of the voyageur 
 and GO wrier de hois, of the trapper and trader, those pioneers 
 of civilization ; the entrepdt of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 thii.t giant monopoly which asserted its supremacy over a terri- 
 tor ^ ';\rly as large as the whole of Europe. 
 
 Many are the thrilling traditions of raids and foray against 
 the intant colony and mission, of the massacres, captivities and 
 rescues of its inhabitants ; many are the weird, wild legends, 
 many the glorious, historical souvenirs clustering around the 
 grand old city. It has been the scene of some of the most im- 
 portant events which have occurred upon the continent. In 
 fancy I beheld the ghosts of those who have lived and acted 
 here, stalk o'er the scene. Jesuit and Kecollet, friars black and 
 friars grey, monks and nuns, gay plumed cavaliers and sturdy 
 bourgeois, men of knightly name and red-skinned warriors of 
 the woods, thronged, in phantom wise, the ancient market 
 square. The deep thunder of the ten-o'clock gun from the fort 
 rolled and reverberated from shore to shore. It broke the 
 spell of the past, and " cold reality becanre again a presence." 
 
 Anxious to impart as much of a foreign Havour as possible 
 to my visit, I went to a (juaint old French hotel. The tim- 
 bered ceilings, deep casements, steep stairways, and unfamiliar 
 language, gave quite a pi(|uant spice to my entertainment. As 
 I sat at breakfast next day, in the pleasant parlour, 1 could 
 look down the long narrow street leading to St. John's gate. 
 In the bright sunlight passed a ceaseless throng — the young 
 
17G 
 
 vjeiv from citadel. 
 
 
 Iw 
 
 1)11 
 
 \l i 
 
 
 and old, the grave and gay, the rich man in his carriage and 
 the cripple with his crutch — and all alike disappeared beneath 
 the impenetrable shadow of the archway of the gate, — the 
 merchant to his villa, the beggar to his straw. So, methought, 
 life's vast procession wends evermore through the crowded 
 ways of time, through the awful shadows of the common 
 portal of the grave to an irrevocable destiny beyond. 
 
 If the ancient ramparts are allowed to crumble to ruin, the 
 citadel, the arx, the true acropolis, is kept in a condition of 
 most efficient defence. From the " King's Bastion," high in 
 
 Old St. John's Gate. 
 
 air, a battery of Armstrong guns threatens destruction to every 
 hostile force. Its steep glacis, deep fosse, solid walls, and 
 heavy armament, make the fort, I jshould think, impregnable. 
 The view from Cape Diamond is superb, and thrilling with 
 heroic associations. Directly opposite, at the distance of a mile 
 or more, is Point Levis, whence Wolfe shelled the doomed city 
 till the famished inhabitants wrote, "We are without hope and 
 without food ; God hath forsaken us." There is the broad 
 sweep of the Beauport shore, which Montcalm had lined with 
 his earthworks for seven miles. 
 
 Yonder is the steep cliff at Montmorenci. where, in desperate 
 
 W 
 
 ill' 
 
THE URSULINE CONVENT. 
 
 \rt 
 
 assault, four hundred men, the flower of the British army, fell 
 dead or dying on the gory slope. There lay the fleet against 
 which, again and again, the fire rafts were launched. A little 
 above is the path by which the conquering army climbed the 
 clifl". That placid plain where the cattle graze was the scene 
 of the death-wrestle between the opposing hosts. Through 
 yonder gates the fugitive army fled and the victors pursued. 
 From these ramparts the hungry eyes of the despairing garrison 
 looked in vain fo' ships of succour to round yon headland. 
 Immediately beneath this cliff" the gallant Montgomery fell cold 
 and stark beneath the winter tempest, and the falling snow 
 became his winding-sheet. 
 
 In the prosecution of certain historical investigations 1 
 visited several of the oldest institutions in the city — the Ursu- 
 line Convent, the Hotel Dieu, the Laval Seminary, etc. The 
 convent is the oldest in America, founded in 16'i9, and has a 
 strange romantic history, indissolubly linked with the memo- 
 ries of the devout enthusiasts, Madame de la Peltrie and Marie 
 de rincarnation. I had a long conversation, through a double 
 grating, with a soft- voiced nun, who gave me viwx-.a information 
 and an engraving of the convent, and detailed two of the 
 young ladies in attendance to show me the chapel containing 
 the tomb of Montcalm, several valuable paintings, and certain 
 rather apocryphal relics from the Catacombs of Rome. 
 
 The Hotel Dieu, founded in 1639 by the famous niece of 
 Cardinal Richelieu, the Duchesse d'Aiguillon, is a vast and 
 quaint old structure. Here are preserved a silver bust of Bre- 
 bceuf, the missionary to the Hurons who, in 1G49, was burned 
 at the stake at St. Ignace, near the site of Penetanguisi one. 
 His skull and other relics are also preserved, and are said to 
 have wrought marvellous miracles of healing, and even, more 
 remarkable still, to have led to the conversion of a inost obsti- 
 nate heretic — heretique plus oplnidtre. On my first visit 
 several years ago, by a special favour I was permitted to see 
 these, which were in a private part of the nunnery, also a pic- 
 ture of the martyrdom. I rang a bell and soon heard a vo^e 
 at a perforated disc in the wall, although I could see no (»iu». 
 I was told to knock at a certain door, but not to enter till the 
 
 ta 
 
ii 
 
 An 
 
 
 178 
 
 HOTEL DIE 17. 
 
 person who would unlock it had gone away, because the clois- 
 tered nuns had no communication with the outer world. I 
 did so, and made a careful study of the bust and other historic 
 relics. I was told that Parkman, the historian, had shortly be- 
 fore visited the place for a similar purpose. An aged nun was 
 greatly interested in the traditions of her house, with which I 
 seemed more familiar than herself, although she had been an 
 inmate for over fifty years. Another nun (Sister St. Patrick, 
 by the way, was her conventual name), when she found I was 
 
 Esi'LAN.utE, Quebec. 
 
 a Protestant heretic, manifested deep concern for my conversion 
 to the Catholic faith, out of which, .,hG solemnly assured me, 
 there was no salvation, ani^ promised me her prayers to that 
 effect. Her earnestness and zeal for the welfare of a stranger 
 were worthy of imitation by lukewarm Proti'stants. 
 
 On a re<H5ut visit J was not admitted to these inner fene- 
 t)\tlia, but the bust was brought to an outer room for my in- 
 spection. In a rtH>m fittt'd up as a sort of chapel, with a little 
 altar at one side, tt fow nuns and convalescent inmates were 
 
 t-S:;£-?H 
 
LAVAL SEMINARY. 
 
 179 
 
 holding a religious service. The singing, accompanied by a 
 violin played by a delicate-looking man, was very sweet and 
 plaintive. In the reception-room of the Good Shepherd Con- 
 vent, where seventy nuns teach seven hundred children, one of 
 the " grey sisters " was reading her breviary, measuring the 
 time by a sand-glass, ever and anon shaking the glass as if 
 impatient that the sand ran so slowly. It was a page out of 
 the middle ages. I saw nothing more quaint since I visited a 
 large Beguinage at Ghent. 
 
 I walked out to Sillery, about a league from town, over 
 the battle-field and through the lovely grounds of Spencer 
 Wood, overlooking the noble river. At Sillery is the identical 
 old mission-house from which Brfeboenf, Lalemant, Jogues, and 
 
 many more set forth, well-nigh 
 two centuries and a half ago, to 
 carry the gospel of peace to the 
 savage tribes beyond Lakes Hu- 
 ron and Superior, and in the re- 
 gions of Hudson Bay; they toiled 
 for years with the rimost zeal, 
 and many of them sealti * their 
 testimony with their blood. 
 
 At the Laval Seminary, vvhich 
 has four hundred students, I 
 was shown, in an authentic por- 
 trait, the clear-cut, haughty 
 features of the astute and politic 
 founder of the institution — a scion of the princely house of 
 Montmorenci, the first bishop of Quebec, who for thirty years 
 (16.59-1689) swayed the religious destiny of Canada. The Laval 
 University, ?, noble pile, commemorates his name. It contains 
 a fine library and museum, and a gallery of paintings contain- 
 ing original Salvators, Teniers, Vernets, a Tintoret, a Poussin, 
 and others of considerable value. 
 
 In the chapel of the Laval .Seminary are — or were, for several 
 of these have been destroyed by fire — some of the finest paint- 
 ings in Canada. One picture of the crucifixion greatly im- 
 pressed me. The background is formed by dense black clouds, 
 traversed by a lurid lightning flash. In the foreground stands 
 
 Sous LE Cap Alley. 
 
lit. 
 
 m 
 
 At 
 
 I 
 
 It] 
 
 180 
 
 QUAINT STREETS. 
 
 the cross from which depends the lifeless body of Christ. It 
 is the only figure in the picture. The feeling of forlornness Is 
 intense. There are no weeping Marys, no fearful Johns, re- 
 morseful Peters, or brutal soldiers, which but distract the 
 attention. But instead thereof, at the foot of the cross lies a 
 soliUry human skull reminding one of Tenny.son's lines, 
 
 " Thou madeafc life, thou niadesb death, thy foot 
 Is on tho skull that thou hast made."' 
 
 The oldest church 
 in the city is that of 
 Notre Dame de la 
 Victoire.in the lower 
 town — a quaint old 
 structure erected to 
 commemorate the 
 
 ^N victory over Sir Wm. 
 
 \ Phipps' fleet in 1690. 
 
 .A An age-embrowned 
 
 l^-i picture in the in- 
 terior represents Our 
 Lady of Victory scat- 
 tering with the tem- 
 pest the heretic fleet. 
 Among the stran- 
 gest sights in Que- 
 bec are the narrow 
 streets nan:ed Sous 
 le Fort and Sous le 
 Cap. The latter is 
 a crowded abode of 
 squalor, crouching 
 beneath the lofty 
 clifl", with the least 
 possible allowance of 
 air, and light, and 
 space. The interi- 
 ors seem mere caves of darkness, and in one I noticed a 
 lamp burning in midday. Aiiother narrow street on the slope 
 
 '■>'»J^MJ=i.Ji 
 
 A Street in Quebec. 
 
OLD GATES. 
 
 181 
 
 to the upper town is quite impassable for carriages on account 
 of its steepness, which is overcome by nearly a hundred steps. 
 The French are evidently very sociable beings. They can 
 easily converse, and almost shake hands across some of their 
 narrow streets. One of the most quaint old structures is that 
 in which Montcalm held his last council of war, on the eve of 
 the conquest. It is now — " to what base uses must we come ! " 
 — a barber shop. The timbered ceiling, thick walls, low steep 
 roof, huge chimney and curious dormers, are interesting sou- 
 
 Olu French House, Quebec. 
 
 venirs of the old regime. Similar in character is the house in 
 which his body was laid out. 
 
 There were till recently five gates permitting ingress and 
 egress between the old town and the outside world. They 
 were of solid wood framing, heavily studded with iron, opening 
 into gloomy, vault-like passages, through scowling, stern- 
 browed guard-houses, with grim-looking cannon frowning 
 through the embrasures overhead, and long, narrow loopholes 
 on either side, suggestive of leaden pills not very easy of 
 
Ik 
 
 ,J I 
 
 
 
 182 
 
 77/A- LOWER TOWN. 
 
 digestion. Several of these, with the modern structures by 
 which they have been superseded, are illustnited in our cuts. 
 
 At the ba.se of the cliif', and between it and the river, lies 
 the lower town. The houses are huddled toj^ether in admir- 
 able disorder. The streets — narrow, tortuous and .steep, with 
 high, quaint, antique-looking houses on either side — remind 
 one of the wynds and closes of Edinburgh, nor is the illusion 
 les.sened by the filth and squalor inseparable from such .sur- 
 roundings. Some of the streets seemed half squeezed to death, 
 as if by physical compression between the cliflf and river, others 
 
 Old Hope Gate, Block, and Guard-house. > 
 
 are wide and wealthy, lined with wholesale warehouses and 
 stores. On the front of the new Post Office is a curious effigy 
 of a dog, carved in .stone and gilded, under which is the fol- 
 lowing inscription : — 
 
 " Je suis un chiea qui ronge I'os ; 
 En le rongeant je prend moii repos. 
 Un temps viendra qui n'est pas venu 
 Que je mordrais qui m'aura niordu." 
 
THE GOLPE.X DOG. 
 
 183 
 
 Tliis has been thus translated by Mr. Kirby: 
 
 "I urn a dog who f{i»Hwa my bono, 
 And at my ease I gnaw alono, 
 Tlio time will come, which is net yot, 
 When I will hito him hy whom I'm bit." 
 
 This ler^end has been tlie motif of one of the best liistorlcal 
 tales ever written — " The Chien d'Or," by William Kirby, Esq., 
 of Niagara. I had the pleasure of reading this story in fifteen 
 manuscript volumes. It is by far the best delineation of old 
 colonial life and character I ever read. It is remarkable, not 
 
 C'JTADKL FROM THK VV'llARF. 
 
 only from the interest of its 
 plot, but also for the elegance of 
 its diction. I know no work in 
 which the unities of time and place are so well maintained. 
 Two-thirds of the book cover a period of only thirty-six hours 
 and the whole, a period of three months. 
 
 Durham Terrace, one of the most delightful promenades in 
 the world, is built on the foundation arches of the old Palais 
 Saint Louis, the chateau of the early French Governors, im- 
 pending immediately ov;r c)i.> lower town. The view there- 
 from is magnificent: tht broad bosom of the St. Lawrence, of 
 mingled sapphire and 0}';ii, studded with the snowy sails of 
 ships flocking portwards like doves to their windows: the silver 
 waters of the St. Charles ; the beautiful Island of Orleans, like 
 
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184 
 
 DURHAM TERRACE. 
 
 
 an emerald ^em on the river's breast; and Point Levis crouching 
 at the opposite shore, form a picture not often equalled nor 
 easily forgotten The view from the Citadel is more command- 
 
 ing still. We drove through a lofty gateway, the leaves of 
 which were formed of interlaced iron chains, immensely strong. 
 We then crossed a wide, deep fosse, between high stone walls, 
 and passed through a sally-port into the fortress. A soldier, 
 off duty, courteously conducted us around the walls He did 
 
THE CITADEL. 
 
 185 
 
 Chain Gate. 
 
 not seem by any means anxious for war, nor did any of the 
 many soldiers whose opinions I have from time to time elicited. 
 I find invariably that those who have seen active service, and 
 
 have known the 
 horrors of war, are 
 much less eager for 
 a fray than those 
 carpet knights who 
 talk so bravely be- 
 fore the ladies, and 
 fiffht so valorouslv 
 [j through the news- 
 papers. 
 
 I witne.ssed some 
 raw recruits going 
 through the bayo- 
 net drill, and being 
 instructed by a 
 spruce looking ser- 
 geant, with a long butcher-knife girt to his side, in the useful 
 and elegant accomplish- ^_ 
 
 inent of spitting their 
 fellow-men. All these 
 things but quickened 
 my aspirations for the 
 time when righteousness 
 and peace shall kiss each 
 other, and the nations 
 learn war no more. The 
 fort is a sort of star 
 shape, and to roe ap- 
 peared absolutely im- 
 pregnable. From the 
 Yamparts one can leap 
 sheer down three hun- 
 dred feet. For short 
 ranges this great altitude is, however, a defect, it being im- 
 possible to depress the guns sufficiently to command the river 
 
 Mabtello Towbb. 
 
186 
 
 BEFORE THE BATTLE. 
 
 beneath. The view of the winding Moselle and storied Rhine 
 fronj the fortress height of Ehrenbreitstein, is one that has 
 been greatly extolled ; but to my mind the view from this his- 
 toric rock is incomparable. The Martello Tower, in our cut, is 
 one of several that protect the city. 
 
 THE CONQUEST OF CANADA. 
 
 The story of the battle which transferred half a continent 
 from France to Britain has been often told, but will, perhaps, 
 bear repeating. 
 
 On the early moonless morning of September 13th, 1759, 
 
 before day, the 
 British Beet drop- 
 ped silently down 
 the river with the 
 ebbing tide, ac- 
 companied by 
 thirty barges con- 
 taining sixteen 
 hundred men, 
 which, with muf- 
 fled oars, closely hugged the shadows of the shore. Pale and 
 weak with recent illness, Wolfe reclined among his officers, 
 and, in a low tone, blending with the rippling of the river, 
 recited several stanzas of the recent poem, Gray's " Elegy 
 written in a Country Churchyard." Perhaps the shadow of his 
 own approaching fate stole upon his mind, as in mournful 
 cadence he • /hispered the strangely-prophetic words, — 
 
 " The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power, 
 
 And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er Rave, 
 Alike await the inaao^^le hour ; 
 Tlie paths of glory lead but to the grave. " 
 
 With a prescience of the hoUowness of military renown, he , 
 exclaimed, " I would rather have written those lines than take 
 Quebec to-morrow." 
 
 Challenged by an alert sentry, an officer gave the counter- 
 sign, which had been learned from a French deserter, and the 
 
 Inside Citadel. 
 
CLIMBING THE CLIFF, 
 
 187 
 
 .H'j.iiiriiiifl^jifaiiii'iC— ■ 
 
 little flotilla was mistaken for a convoy of provisions expected 
 from Montreal. Landing in the deeply-shadowed cove, the 
 agile Highlanders climbed lightly up the steep and narrow path 
 leading to the sum- 
 mit. "Qui Vive?" de. 
 manded the watchful 
 sentinel. "La France," 
 replied Captain Mc- 
 Donald, the Highland 
 officer in command, 
 and, in a moment, the 
 guard was over-pow- 
 ered. The troops 
 swarmed rapidly up 
 the rugged precipice, aiding themselves by the roots end 
 branches of the stunted spruces and savins ; the barges mean- 
 while promptly transferring fresh reinforcements from the fleet. 
 
 St. John's Oati. 
 
 Old Pbkscott Gaxb. 
 
 With much difficulty a single field-piece was dragged up the 
 
 rugged steep. 
 
 When the sun rose, the plain was glittering with the arms of 
 
188 
 
 THE MARSHALLED HOSTS. 
 
 »3mR>r^, 
 
 St. John's Gate in Winteb. 
 
 plaided Highlanders and English red-coats, forming for battle. 
 The redoubled fire from Point Levis and from a portion of the 
 fleet, upon Quebec and the lines of Beauport, detained Montcalm 
 
 below the city, and completely 
 deceived him as to the main 
 point of attack. A breath- 
 less horseman conveyed the 
 intelligence at early dawn. 
 At first incredulous, the gal- 
 lant commander was soon con- 
 vinced of the fact, and ex- 
 claimed, "Then they have got 
 the weak side of this wretched 
 garrison, but we . must fight 
 and crush them;" and the roll 
 of drums and peal of bugles 
 on the fresh morning air summoned the scattered army to ac- 
 tion. With tumultuous haste, the skeleton regiments hurried 
 through the town, and, about nine o'clock, formed in long, 
 thin lines upon the 
 
 Plains of Abraham, } ,* \ 
 
 without waiting for 
 artillery, except two 
 small field-pieces 
 brought from the 
 city. This was Mont- 
 calm's great and fatal 
 mistake. Had he re- 
 mained behind the 
 ramparts of Quebec, 
 he could probably 
 have held out till the 
 approach of winter 
 would have compelled 
 
 the retreat of the British. Including militia and regulars, the 
 French numbered seven thousand five hundred famine-wasted 
 and disheartened men, more than half of whom were, in the 
 words of Wolfe, " a disorderly peasantry." Opposed to them 
 
 ^->"if^^^^,. 
 
 New St. Louis Oati. 
 
 .i^l^S^jki. 
 
THE BATTLE. 
 
 189 
 
 were less than five thousand* veteran troops, eager for the 
 fray, and strong in their confidence in their beloved general. 
 
 Wolfe passed rapidly 
 along the line, cheering 
 his men, and exhorting 
 them not to fire without 
 orders. Firm as a wall 
 they awaited the onset 
 of the French. In sil- 
 ence they filled the ghast- 
 ly gaps made in their 
 ranks by the fire of the 
 foe. Not for a moment 
 wavered the steady line. 
 Not a trigger was pulled 
 till the enemy arrived 
 within about forty yards. 
 Then, at Wolfe's ring- 
 ing word of command, a simultaneous volley flashed from the 
 
 New Kbnt Qatb. 
 
 Old Hops Gate. 
 levelled guns, and tore through the French ranks. As the 
 '*The exact number was 4,828. That of the French is catimated at 7,520. 
 
190 
 
 THE BATTLE. 
 
 smoke-wreaths rolled away upon the morning breeze, a ghastly 
 sight was seen. The French line was broken and disordered, 
 and heaps of wounded strewed the plain. Gallantly resisting, 
 they received another deadly volley. With cheer on cheer the 
 
 
 
 -/^"^ 
 
 Thk Dkath of Wolk. 
 
 British charged before they could reform, and swept the fugi- 
 tives from the field, pursuing them to the city gates, and to the 
 banks of the St. Charles. In fifteen minutes was lost and won 
 the battle that gave Canada to Great Britain. The British 
 loss was fifty-seven killed, and six hundred wounded ; that of 
 the French was fifteen hundred killed, wounded, and prisoners. 
 
DEATH OF WOLFE. 
 
 191 
 
 Beside the multitude slain on either side, whose death carried 
 desolation into many a humble home, were the brave com- 
 manders of the opposing hosts. Almost at the first fire, Wolfe 
 was struck by a bullet that shattered his wrist. Binding a 
 handkerchief round the wound, he led the way to victory. In 
 a moment, a ball pierced 
 his side, but he still cheered 
 on his men. Soon a third 
 shot lodged deep in his 
 breast. Staggering into the 
 arms of an officer, he ex- 
 claimed, " Support me ! Let 
 not my brave fellows see 
 me fall." He was borne to 
 the rear and gently laid 
 upon the ground. "See! 
 they run !" exclaimed one 
 of the officers standing by. 
 "Who run?" demanded 
 Wolfe, arousing as from a 
 swoon. "The enemy, sir; 
 they give way everywhere," 
 was the reply. "What! 
 already?" said the dying 
 man, and he gave orders 
 to cut off their retreat 
 " Now, God be praised," he 
 murmured, "I, die content," 
 and he gently breathed his 
 last. 
 
 His brave adversary, 
 Montcalm, also fell mor- 
 tally wounded, and was 
 borne from the field. " How long shall I live ? " he asked 
 the surgeon. " Not many hours," was the reply. " I am glad 
 of it," he caid; "I shall not see the surrender of Quebec." 
 He refused to occupy his mind longer with earthly concerns. 
 To De Ramsay, who commanded the garrison, and who sought 
 
 Wolfe's New Mondment. 
 
192 
 
 MONTCALM. 
 
 his advice as to the defence of the city, he said : " My time is 
 short, so pray leave me. To your keeping I commend the 
 honour of France. I wish you all comfort and a happy deliver- 
 ance from your perplexities. As for me, I would be alone with 
 Qod, and prepare for death." To another he said : " Since it is 
 my misfortune to be defeated and mortally wounded, it is a 
 great consolation that I have been defeated by so great and 
 generous an enemy." He died before midnight, and, coffined in 
 a rude box, was buried amidst the tears of his soldiers in a 
 grave made by the bursting of a shell. So perished a noble- 
 
 Old St. Louis Gati. 
 
 hearted man, a skilful general and an incorruptible patriot. At 
 a time when the civil officers of the crown, with scarce an ex- 
 ception, were battening like vampires on the life-blood of the 
 colony, Montcalm lavished his private resources, and freely 
 gave up his life in its behalf. 
 
 Near the scene of their death, a grateful people have erected 
 a common monument to the rival commanders, who generously 
 recognized each other's merit in life, and now keep for ever- 
 more the solemn truce of death. The two races which met in 
 the shock of battle dwell together in loving fealty, beneath the 
 protecting folds of one common flag. 
 
ARNOLDS SIEGE OF QUEBEC. 
 
 193 
 
 In the year 1776 Benedict Arnold, who subsequently gained 
 eternal infamy by the base attempt to betray the fortress of 
 West Point, attempted the capture of Quebec, and had secret 
 correspondents among its inhabitants. In the month of Sep- 
 tember, with a force of nearly a thousand men, among whom 
 was Aaron Burr, a future Vice-Presitient of the United States, 
 he toiled up the swift current of the Kennebec and Dead Rivers, 
 to the head-waters of those streams. With incredible labour 
 they conveyed their boats and stores through the tangled wil- 
 derness to the Ghaudi&re, and sailed down its tumultuous cur- 
 rent to the St. Lawrence. Their sufferings through hunger, 
 cold, fatigue, and exposure, were excessive. They were re- 
 duced to eat the flesh of dogs, and even to gnaw the leather of 
 their cartouch-boxes and shoes. Their barges had to be 
 dragged against the rapid stream one hundred and eighty miles, 
 and carried forty miles over rugged portages on men's shoulders. 
 Their number was reduced by sickness, exhaustion and deser- 
 tion, to seven hundred men before they reached the St. Law- 
 rence, and only six hundred were fit for military service. 
 Without artillery, with damaged guns and scanty ammunition, 
 with wretched clothing and imperfect commissariat, they were 
 to attempt the capture of the strongest fortress in America. 
 
 On the night of November the 13th, Arnold, having con- 
 structed a number of canoes, conveyed the bulk of his meagre 
 army across the river, and, without opposition, climbed the 
 cliff by Wolfe's path, and appeared before the walls of the 
 upper town. He sent a flag of truce to demand the surrender 
 of the place ; but the flag was not received, and no answer to 
 the summons was deigned. Having failed to surprise the town, 
 and despairing, with his footsore and ragged regiments, with 
 no artillery, and with only five rounds of ammunition, of tak- 
 ing it by assault, he retired to Point-aux-Trembles, some 
 twenty miles up the river, to await a junction with Mont- 
 gomery. 
 
 The entire population of Quebec was about five thousand, 
 and the garrison numbered eighteen hundred in all, consisting 
 of about a thousand British and Canadian militia, three hun- 
 dred regulars, and a body of seamen and marines from the 
 18 
 
104 
 
 DEATH OF MONTGOMERY. 
 
 &hips in the harbour. The place was provisioned for eight 
 montha 
 
 On the 4th of December, the united forces of Arnold and 
 Montgomery, amounting to about twelve hundred in all, ad- 
 vanced against Quebec. Garleton refused to hold any com- 
 munication with them, and the besieging army encamped in 
 the snow before the walls. Its scanty artillery produced no 
 effect upon the impregnable ramparts. Biting frost, the fire of 
 the garrison, pleu- -.^ -^-^-^.-u. 
 
 risy,and the small- 
 pox did their fatal 
 work. The only 
 hope of success 
 was by assault, 
 which must be made 
 before the close of the 
 year, when the period 
 of service of many of the 
 men expired. 
 
 On the last day of the 
 year, therefore, a double 
 attack was made on the 
 lower town, the object of 
 which was to effect a junction 
 forces, and then to storm the upper 
 town. At four o'clock in the 
 morning, in a blinding snowstorm, 
 Montgomery, with five hundred 
 men, crept along the narrow pass 
 between Gape Diamond and the 
 river. The western approach to the town was defended by a 
 block-house and a battery. As the forlorn-hope made a dash 
 for the barrier, a volley of grape swept through their ranks. 
 Montgomery, with two of his officers and ten men, were slain. 
 The deepening snow wrapped them in its icy shroud, while 
 their comrades retreated in utter discomfiture. 
 
 On the other side of the town, Arnold, with six hundred men, 
 attacked and carried the first barriers: The alarm bells rang, 
 
 Faor of Citadel Cliff. 
 
■^•,H"»S;." 
 
 THE FORTRESS CITY. 
 
 195 
 
 the drums beat to arms, the garrison rallied to the defence. 
 The assaulting party pressed on, and many entered the town 
 through the embrasures of a battery, and waged a stubborn 
 fight in the narrow streets, amid the storm and darkness. 
 With the dawn of morning, they found themselves surrounded 
 by an overwhelming force, and exposed to a withering fire 
 from the houses. They therefore surrendered at discretion, to 
 the number of four hundred men. 
 
 The many memories of this old historic spot are well cele- 
 brated in the following vigorous verses of His Excellency the 
 Marquis of Lome : 
 
 O fortress city 1 bathed by streams 
 
 Majestic as thy memoiies great, 
 
 Where ti'ii tains, flood and forests mate 
 The grandeur of the glorious dreams, 
 
 T'orn of the hero hearts who died 
 
 In forming here an empire's pride ; 
 Prosperity attend thy fate, 
 
 And happiness in thee abide. 
 Fair Canada's strong tower and gate 1 
 
 For all must drink delight whose feet 
 
 Have paced the streets or terrace way ; 
 
 From rampart sod, or bastion gray, 
 nave marked thy sea-like river great, 
 
 The bright and peopled banks that shine 
 
 In front of the far mountain's line ; 
 Thy glittering roofs below, the play 
 
 Of currents where the ships entwine 
 Their spars, or laden pass away. 
 
 As we who joyously once rode 
 
 So often forth to trumpet sound, 
 
 Past guarded spates, by ways that wound 
 O'er drawbridges, through moats, and showed 
 
 The vast St. Lawrence flowing, belt 
 
 The Orleans Isle, and seaward melt ; 
 Then past old walls, by cannon crowned, 
 
 Down stair-like streets, to where we felt 
 The salt winds blown o'er meadow ground. 
 
 Where flows the Charles past wharf and dock, 
 
 And learning from Laval looks down, 
 
 And quiet convents grace the town, 
 There swift to meet the battle shock 
 
196 TO MONTMORENCI. 
 
 Montcalm rushed on ; and eddying back, 
 Red slaughter marked the bridge's track ; 
 
 See now the shores with lumber brown, 
 And girt with happy laads that lack 
 
 No loveliness of summer's crown. 
 
 Quaint hamlet-alleys, border-filled 
 
 With purple lilacs, poplars tall, 
 
 Where flits the yellow bird, and fall 
 The deep eave shadows. There when tilled 
 
 The peasant's field or garden bed. 
 
 He rests content if o'er his head 
 From silver spires the church bells call 
 
 To gorgeous shrines and prayers that gild 
 The simple hopes and lives of all. . . . 
 
 The glory of a gracious land. 
 
 Fit home for many a hardy race ; 
 
 Where liberty has broadest base. 
 And labour honours every hand. 
 
 Throughout her triply thousand miles 
 
 The sun upon each season smiles. 
 And every man has scope and space, 
 
 And kindliness from strand to strand, 
 Alone is borne to right of place. 
 
 TO MONTMORENCI. 
 
 The drive from Quebec to the Montmorenci is one of the 
 loveliest conceivable. We mount the caleche, a queer, nonde- 
 script sort of carriage, and are whirled rapidly along. Emerg- 
 ing from the narrow, tortuoiis streets — in which the wind 
 has hardly room to turn round, and if it had would be sure 
 to get lost, so crooked are they — we pass through the 
 portals of Palace Gate, now removed. The road wanders 
 carelessly along the river side, past old, red-roofed chateaux, 
 moss-covered, many -gabled, memory-haunted ; by spruce and 
 beautiful modern suburban villas, through quaint old hamlets, 
 with double or triple rows of picturesque dormer windows in 
 the steep, mossy roof, with the invariable " Church of Our 
 Lady," the guardian angel of the scene, from whose cross- 
 crowned spire the baptized and consecrated bells "sprinkle 
 with holy sounds the air, as a priest with his hyssop the con- 
 gregation " — through sweet-scented hay fields, where the new 
 mown grass breathes out its fragrance — past quaint, thatch- 
 
THE COTE DE BE A UP RE. 
 
 197 
 
 roofed bams and granges, "where stand the broad-wheeled 
 wains, the antique ploughs and the harrows" — past the crowded 
 dove-cots where " the sui>surus and coo of the pigeons whis- 
 pereth ever of love" — past the fantastic-looking windmills, 
 brandishing their stalwart arms as if eager for a fray — past 
 the rustic wayside crosses, each with an image of the Christ 
 waving hands of benediction over the pious wayfarers who 
 pause a moment in their journey to whisper a Pater Noster or 
 
 Old Palace Gate. 
 
 an Ave Maria — past all these onward still wanders the roadway, 
 on our right the silver St. Lawrence, on our left the sombre- 
 hued Laurentian mountains, and far behind us the old, high- 
 walled, strong-gated, feudal city. As we drive along, little 
 children run beside our carriage offering flowers, asking alms ; 
 dusk-eyed, olive-skinned girls are hay-making in the meadows 
 or spinning in the doorways ; and the courteous habitant with 
 his comical chapeau and scarlet sash bows politely as we pass. 
 Really one can hardly resist the illusion that he is travelling 
 through Picardy or Artois, or some rural district of Old France. 
 
198 
 
 FALLS OF MONTMORENCL 
 
 In the meantime we hare been rapidly nearing the Falls, 
 which can now be heard " calling to us from afar off." 
 
 The best view of a waterfall is confessedly from below, so let 
 us descend. We must here leave our carriage and clamber 
 down as best we can. Now that we are down, how high 
 these bluffs appear. And lo! the fall in all its glory bursts 
 on our view. The river hurls itself over a cliff two hundred 
 and fifty feet high immediately into tide water. The fall is 
 
 ■ A Caleohe. 
 
 about fifty or sixty feet wide. How glorious it is ! Half as 
 high again as Niagara, but not nearly so wide. We are so 
 close that we can feel the torrent's breath upon our cheeks. 
 What a majesty crowns that hoary brow ! What dazzling 
 brightness hath that snowy front ! It seems to pour out of the 
 very sky. A huge black rock gores and tears the foamy 
 torrent, rending its waving skirts from bottom to top. We sit 
 and gaze upon that awful front till it becomes an imperishable 
 picture in the brain, " a thing of beauty and a joy forever." 
 Here the ruthless men of money have beguiled a portion of the 
 
 ..*-. 
 
THE GIANTS STAIRS. 
 
 199 
 
 unsuspected river along that aqueduct, and now fetter its wil(i 
 gambolling, harness it like Ixion to a never-resting wheel, and 
 make it ignominiously work for a living like a bound galley- 
 slave. 
 
 The " Giant's Stairs," or " Marches Naturelle," are a flight 
 of broad, natural steps, terrace above terrace, like a noble 
 vestibule. Through these the river, in the lapse of centuries, 
 has worn for itself a deep and narrow gorge, in places not more 
 than twelve feet wide, down which it chafes and frets and 
 fumes very wrathfuUy. See there, in its hot haste it has 
 hurled itself right against that rude rock that stands forever 
 in the way. It goes off limping and looking very angry. It 
 froths and foams, and looks so wicked, I shouldn't wonder if 
 it were swearing in its own way. That's just the way with 
 impetuous, hot-headed rivers — and men, too. They vex. them- 
 selves into a foaming passion, and invariably come off worse in 
 their encounters with the grand old majesty and impassiveness 
 of Nature. 
 
 The following is the account of this fall given by that 
 veteran traveller. Bayard Taylor: — "A safe platform leads 
 along the rocks to a pavilion on a point at the side of the fall, 
 and on a level with it. Here the gulf, nearly three hundred 
 feet deep, with its walls of chocolate- coloured earth, and its 
 patches of emerald herbage, wet with eternal spray, opens 
 to the St. Lawrence. Montmorenci is one of the loveliest 
 waterfalls. In its general characucr it bears some resemblance 
 to the Pisse-Vache, in Switzerland, which, however, is much 
 smaller. The water is snow-white, tinted, in the heaviest por- 
 tions of the fall, with a soft yellow, like that of raw silk. In 
 fact, broken as it is by the irregular edge of the rock, it reminds 
 one of masses of silken, flossy skeins, continually overlapping 
 one another as they fall. At the bottom, dashed upon a pile of 
 rocks, it shoots far out in s^-^r Ht'» radii of spray, which share 
 the regular throb or pulsation of the falling masses. The edges 
 of the fall flutter out into lace-like points and fringes, which 
 dissolve into gauze as they descend." 
 
 The old French hahitanta call the Montmorenci Fall La Vache 
 (" The Cow "), on account of the resemblance of its foaming 
 
mim 
 
 200 
 
 QUEBEC IN VERSE 
 
 waters to milk. Others attribute this name to the noise like 
 the lowing of a cow which is made by the fall during the preva- 
 lence of certain winds. Immediately about the basin and 
 along the Montniorenci River, many severe actions took place 
 during Wolfe's siege of Quebec. This river was for a time the 
 location of the picket-lines of the British and French armies. 
 
 QUEBEC IN LITERATURE. 
 
 The resources of prose and verse have been exhausted in 
 describing the beauty of this quaint old city. Sangster thus 
 apostrophises it : ' 
 
 Quebec ! how regally it crowns the height, 
 Like a tanned giant on a solid throne ! 
 Unmindful of the sanguinary fight, 
 
 The roar of cannon mingling with the moan * 
 
 Of mutilated soldiers years agone. 
 That gave the place a glory and a name 
 Amon'j the nations. Franco was heard to (rroan ; 
 England rejoiced, but checked the proud acclaim — 
 A brave young chief had fall'n to vindicate her fame. 
 
 Wolfe and Montcalm ! two nobler names ne'er graced 
 The page of history, or the hostile plain ; 
 No braver souls the storm of battle faced. 
 Regardless of the danger or the pain. 
 They pass'd unto their rest without a stain 
 Upon their nature or their generous hearts. 
 One graceful column to the noblu twain 
 Speaks of a nation's gratitude, and starts 
 The tear that Valour claims, and Feeling's self imparts. 
 
 Down the rough slope Montmorenci's torrent pours, 
 We cannot view it by this feeble ray, 
 But hark ! its thunders leap along the shores. 
 Thrilling the cliifs that guard the beauteous bay; 
 And now the moon shines on our downw.ird way. 
 Showing fair Orleans' enchanting Isle, 
 Its fields of grain, and meadows sweet with hay ; 
 Along the fertile shores fresh landscapes smile. 
 Cheering the watchful eye for many a pleasant mile. 
 
 " I rubbed my eyes," says Thoreau, describing the entrance 
 through the ancient Frescott Gate, " to be sure that I was in 
 
AND IN PROSE. 
 
 201 
 
 the nineteenth century, and was not entering one of those 
 portals which sometimes adorn the frontispiece of old black- 
 letter volumes. I thought it would be a good place to read 
 Froissart's Chronicles. It was such a reminiscence of the 
 Middle Ages as Scott's novels." 
 
 "Whilst the surrounding scenery reminds one of the un- 
 rivalled views of the Bosphorus," says another tourist, "the airy 
 site of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edin- 
 burgh. Quebec may be best described by supposing that an 
 ancient Norman fortress of two centuries ago had been encased 
 in amber, transported by magic to Canada, and placed on the 
 summit of Cape Diamond." 
 
 " Leaving the Citadel," says Sir Charles Dilke, " we are once 
 more in the European Middle Ages. Gates and posterns, cranky 
 steps that lead up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp French 
 roofs of burnished tin, like those of Liege ; processions of the 
 Host; altars decked with flowers; statues of the Virgin; 
 sabots ; blouses ; and the scarlet of the British linesman, — all 
 these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are graced 
 with many a Cotentin lace cap, and all within forty miles of 
 the down-east, Yankee State of Maine. It is not far from New 
 England to Old France." 
 
 " Curious old Quebec ! " says Henry Ward Beecher, " of all 
 the cities of the continent of America the most quaint ! It is a 
 peak thickly populated ! a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, 
 and at the same time smoothed ofl* to hold firmly on its summit 
 the houses and castles, although according to the ordinary laws 
 of matter they ought to fall off like a burden placed on a 
 camel's bacl 'thout fastening. Yet the houses and castles 
 hold there as if they were nailed down. At the foot of the 
 rock some feet of land have been reclaimed from the river, and 
 that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Quebec is a dried 
 shred of the Middle Ages, hung high up near the North Pole, 
 far from the beaten paths of the European tourists, a curiosity 
 without parallel on this side of the ocean. We traversed each 
 street as we would have turned the leaves of a book of engrav- 
 ings, containing a new painting on each page." 
 
 "On a summer evening when Durham Terrace is covered 
 
202 
 
 CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 with loungers, and Point Levis is sprinkled with lights and the 
 Lower Town has illuminated its narrow streets and its rows 
 of dormer-windows, while the lively murmur of business is 
 heard and the eye can discern the great shadows of the ships 
 beating into port, the scene is one of marvellous animation. 
 It is then, above all, that one is struck with the resemblance 
 between Quebec and the European cities ; it might be called a 
 city of France or Italy transplanted ; the physiognomy is the 
 same, and daylight is needed to mark the alteration of features 
 produced by the passage to America." 
 
 THE POUNDER OF QUEBEC. 
 
 The story of the founding and early history of this grand 
 old city are of fascinating interest. On the 3rd of July, 1608, 
 Samuel de Champlain reached the narrows of the river, where 
 frown the craggy heights of Quebec. Here, beneath the tall 
 cliff of Cape Diamond, he laid the foundations of one of the 
 most famous cities of the New World.* A wooden fort was 
 erected, on the site of the present market-place of the Lower 
 Town, and was surrounded by a palisade, loop-holed for mus- 
 ketry. The whole was enclosed by a moat, and three small 
 cannon guarded the river-front. The colonists were soon com- 
 fortably housed, and land was cleared for tillage. The €rm 
 discipline maintained by Champlain, provoked a conspiracy 
 for his murder. It was discovered, the ringleader was hanged, 
 and his fellow-conspirators shipped in chains to France. 
 Champlain was left with twenty-eight men to hold a continent. 
 His nearest civilized neighbours were the few English colonists 
 at Jamestown, Virginia. The long and cruel winter was a 
 season of tragical disaster and suffering. Before spring, of that 
 little company, only eight remained alive. The rest had all 
 miserably perished by the loathsome scurvy. The timely 
 arrival of succours from France saved the little colony from 
 extinction. 
 
 * The name Quebec, Champlain positively asserts, was the Indian designa- 
 tion of the narrows of the St. Lawrence at this point, the word signifying 
 a strait. Canada is the Indian word for a collection of huts, and enters 
 into ^he composition of several native names. 
 
HIS CHARACTER. 
 
 203 
 
 After many adventures, including a canoe voyage to the 
 shores of Lake Huron, a war expedition with the Huron tribes 
 against the Iroquois south of Lake Ontario, a retreat on foot 
 in midwinter to the Huron country, and a return after a year's 
 absence to Quebec, Champlain devoted himself to fostering the 
 growth of the colony. Quebec was as yet only surrounded by 
 wooden walls. To strengthen its defences, the energetic Gov- 
 ernor built a stone fort in the Lower Town, and on the magnifi- 
 cent heights overlooking the broad St. Lawrence, one of the 
 noblest sites in the world, he began the erection of the Castle 
 of St. Louis, the residence of successive Governors of Canada 
 down to 1834, when it was destroyed by firo. 
 
 But the labours of Champlain's busy life, spent in the service 
 of his native or adopted country, were drawing to a close. In 
 October, 1635, being then in the sixty-eighth year of his age, 
 he was smitten with his mortal illness. For ten weeks he lay 
 in the Castle of St. Louis, unable even to sign his name, but 
 awaiting with resignation the Divine will. On Christmas Day, 
 the brave soul passed away. The body of the honoured 
 founder of Quebec was buried beneath the lofty cliff which 
 overlooks the scene of his patriotic toil. The character of 
 Champlain was more like that of the knight-errant of mediaeval 
 romance than that of a soldier of the practical seventeenth 
 century in which he lived. He had greater virtues and fewer 
 faults than most men of his age. In a time of universal license 
 his life was pure. With singular magnanimity, he devoted 
 himself to the interests of his patrons. Although traffic with 
 the natives was very lucrative, he carefully refrained from 
 engaging in it. His sense of justice was stern, yet his conducl 
 was tempered with mercy. He won the unfaltering confidence 
 of the Indian tribes; suspicious) of others, in him they had 
 boundless trust. His zeal for the spread of Christianity was 
 intense. The salvation of one soul, he was wont to declare, 
 was of more importance than the founding of an empire. His 
 epitaph is written in the record of his busy lire. For weii- 
 nigh thirty years, he laboured without stint, and against almost 
 insuperable difficulties, for the struggling colony. A score of 
 times he crossed the Atlantic in the tardy, incommodious, and 
 
204 
 
 DEATH OF CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 often scurvy-smitten vessels of the period, in order to advance 
 its interests. His name is embalmed in the history of his 
 
 If 
 
 
 § 
 
 P3 
 
 adopted country, and still lives in the memory of a grateful 
 people, and in the designation of the beautiful lake on which 
 
THE UPPER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 205 
 
 he. first of white men, sailed. His widow, originally a Hugue- 
 not, espoused her husband's faith, and died a nun at Meaux in 
 1654. His account of his voyage to Mexico, and his history of 
 New France, bear witness to his literary skill and powers of 
 observation; and his summary of Christian doctrine, written 
 for the native tribes, is a touching monument of his piety. 
 
 QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 
 
 The river route to Montreal is much less picturesque than 
 the lower St Lawrence, but is by no means devoid of interest. 
 The bold bluffs of Point Levis on the south shore, the vast 
 timber coves on the north, and the quaint village of Sillery, 
 are soon passed. Midway between Quebec and Montreal, at 
 the mouth of the St. Maurice, is the ancient city of Three 
 Rivers, founded in 1618. Its chief feature is the stately pile 
 of Roman Catholic conventual and collegiate buildings, and 
 the large cathedral. Its population is about ten thousand. 
 
 Lake St. Peter is a wide but shallow expansion of the St. 
 Lawrence, through which a ship channel is buoyed out. Here 
 immense timber rafts are often seen, like floating villages, with 
 bellying sails and long sweeps, and the wooden houses and 
 earthen hearths of the lumbermen. The scene by night, as the 
 weird-looking figures dance around their far-gleaming fires, to 
 the animated strains of " Via I'bon vent," or " En roulant ma 
 houle," is strangely picturesque. Sometimes in stormy weather 
 these rafts will be knocked to pieces by the waves, and much 
 valuable timber will be lost, or so drifted about that the cost of 
 collecting it involves an almost ruinous expense. 
 
 Passing the St. Nicholet, St. Francis and Yamaska rivers, we 
 reach the great river Richelieu, the outlet of Lake Champlain 
 and Lake George, and long the " gateway to Canada " from the 
 head waters of the Hudson. At its mouth is the handsome and 
 historic town of Sorel, on the site of Fort Richelieu, founded in 
 1641. The very names of the river villages — Contrecceur, Laval- 
 trie, Berthier, St. Sulpice, Repentigny, Varennes, St. Therfese, 
 Pointe aux Trembles (from its trembling aspens), and Longueuil , 
 are full of poetic and historic associations. We will let Sangster 
 animate those poetic names : 
 
too THE NORTH SHORE. 
 
 Varennet, like a fair Eden purged from guile, 
 Sits smiling on the night ; yon aged pile 
 With its bright spires reposing on its breast. 
 Yonder, the Holy Mountain of Bouville, 
 Like a huge cloud that had come down to rest, 
 Looms far against the sky, and on its sombre crest 
 
 Shineth the Pilgrim's Gross, that long hath cheered 
 The weary wanderer from distant lands, 
 Who, as his stately pinnace onward steered, 
 Bless'd his Faith's symbol with uplifted hands. 
 Swift through the Richelieu ! Past the white sands 
 That spangle fair Batiscan's pleasant shore 
 We glide, where fairy dwellings dot the strands ; 
 How gracefully yon aged elms brood o'er 
 The shrubbery that yearneth for their mystic lore, 
 
 When the winds commune with the tell-tale limbs, 
 And many-voicdd leaves. That is St. Pierre, 
 Where the tall poplars, which the night bedims, 
 Lift their sharp outlines through the solemn air. 
 Past these white cottages to L'Avenir, 
 Another site of beauty. Lovelier yet 
 The Plateau, slumbering in the foliage there ; 
 And gay Cap Sainte, like Wild Love, beset 
 With wooers, bringing gems to deck her coronet. 
 
 At last the villa-studded slopes of Mount Royal come into 
 view, with the twin towers of Notre Dame, and the magnificent 
 Victoria Bridge bestriding the river beyond. 
 
 One can also reach Montreal expeditiously by the North 
 Shore Railway. The ride is like a run through Picardy or 
 Normandy. There is the same quaint foreign appearance of 
 the scattered hamlets, the queer red-roofed houses, with their 
 many dormer windows, huge chimneys, and great hospitable 
 outside ovens. Every six miles rises a large parish church, 
 with its graceful spire or twin spires, and adjacent Preahythre 
 or Convent, with their far-flashing tin roofs. At the stations 
 and on the trains is seen the village cwr4, always with his 
 breviary, which he almost continuously reads. The country 
 has been so long settled that most of the original forest is 
 cleared off; a few clumps of spiry spruces indicating a northern 
 svlva. The farms run back in narrow ribbands from the main 
 
THE NORTH SHORE. 
 
 207 
 
 road. Many of the long, low barn» are roofed with thatch, 
 some are whitewashed, roof and all, and a few long-armed wind- 
 mills intensify the foreign aspect of the country. 
 
 " It could really be called a village," said Kalm, the Swedish 
 traveller, in 1749, " beginning at Montreal and ending at Que- 
 bec, which is a distance of more than 180 miles; for the farm- 
 houses are never more than five arpents apart, and sometimes 
 but three asunder, a few places excepted." In 1684, La Hontan 
 said that the houses along these shores were never more than a 
 gunshot apart. The inhabitants are simple-minded and primi- 
 tive in their wayfl, tenaciously retaining the Catholic faith and 
 the French language and customs. Emery de Caen, Champlain's 
 contemporary, told the Huguenot sailors that " Monseigneur 
 the Duke de Ventadour (Viceroy) did not wish that they should 
 sing psalmi in the Great River." When the first steamboat 
 ascended this river, an old Canadian voyageur exclaimed, in 
 astonishment and doubt, " Mais croyez-vous que le bon Dieu 
 permettra tout cela ! " 
 
 Another route from Quebec is that by the Grand Trunk 
 Railway on the south shore. Point Levis, a thriving city 
 with its stately churches and conventual buildings, crowns 
 a rocky height. On a lofty plateau in the rear are the great 
 forts — modelled after those of Cherbourg — the most perfect 
 in Europe. The falls of the Chaudi^re, nine miles from 
 Quebec, will well repay a visit — the river makes a plunge of 
 135 feet over a rocky bed, which breaks the water into a mil- 
 lion flashing prisms. 
 
 THE EASTERN TOWNSHIPS. 
 
 The most considerable town on this route is Richmond, 
 picturesquely situated on the St. Francis, and St. Hyacinth on 
 the Yamaska, with cathedral, college, convent, and a population 
 of 4,000. Sherb.'ooke, on the Magog, is the principal place south 
 of the St. Lawrence, after Levis, having a population of 8,000 
 and numerous factories. This is the centre of the famous 
 " Eastern Townships," the most fertile, and best cultivated, and 
 richest stock-raising portion of Quebec. The romantic legion 
 around Lake Memphremagog is well named " The Switzerland 
 
208 
 
 THE EASTERN TOWNSHIPS. 
 
 of Canada." The following paragraphs describe a visit made 
 from Montreal to this romantic region : 
 
 Within four hours' ride from Montreal, via the South- 
 Eastern Railway, lies one of the most charming and picturesque 
 parts of Canada, and the most beautiful of Canadian lakes — 
 Memphremagog. We glide out of the busy Bonaventure Sta- 
 tion, and leaving the stately city behind us, plunge into the 
 dark and echoing tunnel of the Victoria Tubular Bridge. What 
 strikes one is the composite nature of the train, made up, as it 
 is, of carriages which, after keeping company for a time, diverge 
 by different routes to Portland, Boston, and New York. From 
 the south shore of the St. Lawrence, the imposing river front 
 of our Canadian Liverpool, with its crowded docks, shipping, 
 and warehouses, and its terraced streets and magnificent moun- 
 tain background, is seen to great advantage. 
 
 When we leave the river we soon see that we are in a very 
 different country from the garden province of Ontario. The 
 trees assume a more northern aspect, and are largely aspen 
 poplars, whose vivid green, shimmering in the sunlight, con- 
 trasts strongly with the sombre foliage of the spruces. The 
 country sweeps in a broad slope to the far horizon. Quiet vil- 
 lages see the thunderous trains rush by, and calmly slumber on. 
 The diminutive houses cluster around the huge red-roofed, cross- 
 crowned church, like children around the feet of their mother. 
 Rustic wayside crosses are sometimes seen, where wayfarers 
 pause for a moment to whisper a Pater or an Ave, Frequently 
 appear the populous dove-cots, an indication of seigneurial privi- 
 lege. On many farms a rude windmill brandishes its stalwart 
 arms, as if eager for a fray — a feature imported probably from 
 the wind-swept plains of Normandy. Many of the cottages 
 gleam with snowy whitewash — roofs ard all — looking in the 
 distance like a new washed flock of sheep, or like the tents of 
 an army. As we proceed further the naked rocks protrude in 
 places through the soil, as though the earth were getting out- 
 at-elbows and exposing her bony frame. The country is 
 much more picturesque, however, than anything we have in 
 the west. 
 
 Sixteen miles from Montreal is situated the thriving town of 
 
THE EASTERN TOWNSHIPS. 
 
 209 
 
 Chambly, with its castollateil and dismantled fort, near which, 
 as many as 6,000 troops have encamped. 
 
 At the thriving 
 town of St. John's 
 we cross the broad 
 Richelieu, known as 
 the River of the Iro- 
 quois, — the gateway 
 of Canada by which 
 those ferocious 
 tribes, for two hun- 
 dred years, invaded 
 the river seigneuries 
 and often menaced, 
 and sometimes mas- 
 sacred, the hapless 
 inhabitants of Mon- 
 treal. The old 
 " Jesuit Relations " 
 abound with narra- 
 tives of thrilling ad- 
 venture on this his- 
 toric stream, which 
 are now well-nigh 
 forgotten. 
 
 After leaving St. 
 John's we pass the 
 pretty and prosper- 
 ous villages of West 
 and East Farnham, 
 Cowansville, Sweets- 
 burg, West Brome, 
 Sutton, and Aber- 
 corn. Several of 
 these nestle in shel- 
 tering valleys amid 
 the swelling hills, and in the English parts of the Eastern 
 Townships as good farms, farmsteads, and stock abound as one 
 u 
 
 \\ 
 
 ^»-"«BiraOTBi»B»i>..-.-r.T; H, yi^;» H W W IIP':1 
 
210 
 
 LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG. 
 
 would care to see. This is especially true of the magnificent 
 rolling land east of the Merophremagog, and on the slopes of 
 the St. Francis River. Entering Vermont State at Richford, 
 the hills swell into mountains, some of them over 4,000 feet 
 high. Like ancient Titans sitting on their solitary thrones, 
 they seem to brood ovor the deep thoughts locked in their 
 rocky breasts. 
 
 Lake Memphremagog, two-thirds of which lies in the 
 Dominion of Canada, is the charming rival of Lake George, 
 which it resembles in conformation. Its length is thirty miles, 
 the breadth about two miles, widening in some portions to six 
 miles. The bold, rock-bound shores, numerous wooded islands, 
 the shadowing peaks of lofty mountains, rising, in some cases, 
 to 3,000 feet in height, with slopes of luxurious forests and 
 greenest verdure, serve but to heighten tlie charm of this 
 " Beautiful Water," supplied from the pure, cold streams ot 
 the surrounding mountains. 
 
 The memory of a day spent on this lovely lake is photo- 
 graphed forever on our mind as one of its most vivid and 
 beautiful pictures. One takes the steamer at the pretty little 
 town of Newport, in Vermont. Her commander has, for a life- 
 time, known every point upon these waters, and can give valu- 
 able information or amuse you with stories and legends innum- 
 erable, pertaining to the old-time history of this wild and 
 secluded region. The zig-zag course of the steamer gives you 
 a trip of nearly fifty miles' sailing, from Newport to the village 
 at the northern outlet — Magog — a hamlet with a background 
 of forest extending to Mount Orford. The sail of nearly a 
 hundred miles up and down the lake is one of ever-varying 
 deliffht. The snow-white hotels and villas of the town are 
 sharply relieved against the verdure of the wooded hills. 
 PlePvSure yachts float, doubled by reflection, on the glassy sur- 
 face, and the snowy pennon of a railway engine streams grace- 
 fully in the air. The eastern shores are fertile and sparsely 
 populated with a farming community ; the western shore is 
 njore bold and abrupt, rising, in many places, in frowning 
 bluffs of several hundred feet elevation. 
 
 Fertile farms slope up from the lake to a background of 
 
 ^¥.:''^h^^- 
 
ITS STRIKING BEAUTY. 
 
 211 
 
 mountains, rising range beyond range, passing from bright 
 green to deep purple, and fading away into soft pearl gray. 
 
 Now we approach Owl's Head, which looms ever vaster and 
 grander as we draw near. It lifts its hoary summit nearly 
 three thousand feet in ths air, and Mount Orford, near the 
 further end of the lake, is nearly a thousand feet higher. The 
 former, however, is more accessible, and makes the more strik- 
 ing impression from the water. 
 
 Our steamer moored at the foot of the mountain long enough 
 for us to study its character. A huge rock rose grandly from 
 the water, of a cool gray, except where coated with many- 
 coloured lichens. A mass of dense foliage clothed its mighty 
 sides; white-skinned birches trailing their tresses in the 
 waves, shivering aspens, feathery larches, the vivid verdure of 
 tlie maple, the graceful forms of the elm, the gray-leaved wil- 
 lows swaying with gloomy flout ; above, " the pine tree, dark 
 and high, tossed its plumes so wild and free ; " and underneath 
 grew rankly the lush luxuriance of the grass and sedges and 
 the dew-bedappled ferns. 
 
 Round Island is a cedar-crowned swell of rockbound land, 
 rising from the lake, about a half-mile from the base of Owl's 
 Head, which you are now approaching. The boat lands you in 
 a few minutes at the wharf of a laud-locked and mountain- 
 shadowed hotel, the Mountain House. The view of the lake 
 from this point is superb. The ascent of Owl's Head is made 
 from that hotel. There are curious and prominent way-marks 
 on the ascent, and the prospect is grand and extensive, extend- 
 ing, with favourable weather, to Montreal and the great St. 
 Lawrence River, over the whole extent of the lake and the 
 cluster of lakes, ponds, and system of rivers, with the ranges, 
 peaks, and villages around the wide sweep of view. These 
 hills have all rounded tops, as if glacier-worn by the great ice- 
 fields which passed over their head in the post-tertiary geo- 
 logical age. 
 
 Steaming northward from this point the great mountains 
 rear their huge masses into view — Owl's Head, Sugar-Loaf, or 
 Mount Elephantis, the Hog's Back, and away in the distance. 
 Jay I'eak. Meanwhile, Long Island with its bold shores, has 
 
Lake 
 Memphremagoo. 
 
LAKE WILLOUGHBY. 
 
 213 
 
 been passed, and on its southern line is the famous Balance 
 Rock, a huge granite mass, balanced upon a point close to the 
 water's edge, an object of interest to the learned and the 
 curious. The eastern shores are now abrupt, and residences of 
 wealthy Canadians crown the heights. Molson, the Montreal 
 banker, has here his summer residence, and is the proprietor of 
 an island near the eastern shore. Sir Hugh Allan, the great 
 .steamship owner, had, at the time of which we write, a charm- ' 
 ing villa on the shore of the lake. A hale-looking, white- 
 haired old gentleman he looked, as he stood on the wharf ia a 
 butternut coat, buff vest, and white hat. 
 
 Steaming on, and rounding the bold rocky promontory of 
 Gibraltar Point, one has a wide view, with Mount Orford in 
 the distance — the highest summit of Lower Canada, 3,300 feet 
 elevation, distance five miles from the village of Magog. It 
 may be ascended by carriage roadway to the summit. 
 
 A few miles from Newport is Lake Wil lough by. This re- 
 markable sheet of water lies between two lofty mountain walls, 
 evidently once united, but torn asunder by some terrible con- 
 vulsion of nature in remote ages. The surface of the lake is 
 nearly twelve hundred feet above sea level, and the mountain 
 walls tovt^er on either side to the height of nearly two thousand 
 feet 'above the lake. Mount Willough by, the eastern wall, is 
 nearly two thousand feet in height, and Mount Hor, on the 
 western side, is of somewhat less elevation. From the summit 
 of these heights you may look to the south-east upon the 
 White and Franconia Mountains, westward to the bold peaks 
 and ranges of the Green Mountains, northward into the 
 Canadas, and southward along the wide valley between the 
 great mountain ranges. From Newport to the White Moun- 
 tains, Lake Winnipesaukee, and Boston is a delightful ride 
 along the picturesque Passumsic and Merrimac Rivers, whose 
 ever-varying scenery makes the trip one long to be remembered. 
 
 Old travellers, who have seen them both, say that Meraphre- 
 magog, for beauty of scenery, altitude of surrounding moun- 
 tains, and picturesque indentation of shore, bears away the 
 palm from the far-famed Lochs Lomond and Katrine. It has 
 also, in some of its aspects, been compared to Lake George, which 
 
214 
 
 ON THE BORDERS. 
 
 it resembles in great length as compared to its breadth, and to 
 the memory -haunted waters of Lake Geneva. But it lacks the 
 historic interest, the human sympathy, the spell o£ power that 
 those scenes possess; — 
 
 The light that never was on sea or shore, 
 The consecration and the poet's dream. 
 
 The country hereabouts is so near the borders that sometimes 
 one is not sure whether he is in the Queen's dominions or not. 
 One house in Stanstead, used as a store, is right on the line, — 
 a highly convenient arrangement for evading the customs' 
 obligation to render unto Caesar the things that are Caesar's. 
 A row of low iron pillars, bearing the names of the boundary 
 commissioners, mark the division between the two countries. 
 I stood by one of them with one foot in Canada and the other 
 in the United States, yet did I not feel any divided allegiance. 
 I know, however, that I feel a little safer and more comfortable 
 beneath the broad folds of the old flag under which I was born, 
 and under which I hope to die. At the pleasant town of 
 Stanstead is the Methodist College, well equipped and doing 
 admirable educational work. 
 
 FOUNDING OF THE VILLE MARIE. • 
 
 On the morning of the 18th of May, 1642, a small flotilla 
 might have been seen slowly gliding up the rapid current 
 which flows between St. Helen's Island and the Island of 
 Montreal. The sun shone brightly on the snowy sails, flashed 
 from the surface of the rippling river, and lit up the tender 
 ^'reen of the early spring foliage on the shores. The dipping 
 of the oars kept time to the chanting of a hymn of praise, 
 which, softened by the distance, floated musically over the 
 waves. 
 
 As the foremost and largest vessel approached, there could 
 be distinguished on its deck a small but illustrious group of 
 pioneers of civilization, whose names are forever associated 
 with the founding of the great city which now occupies the 
 populous shores, then clothed with the rank luxuriance of the 
 primeval forest. Conspicuous among these, by his tall figure, 
 
FOUNDING OF VILLE MARIE. 
 
 215 
 
 close black cassock, wide-brimmed hat, and cross hanging from 
 his girdle, was Viniont, the Superior of the Jesuit Mission of 
 Canada. By his side stood a youthful acolyte bearing a silken 
 banner, floating gently in the morning breeze, on which 
 gleamed in white and gold, upon a purple ground, the image of 
 the Virgin, by whose name the new town Ville Marie was to 
 be consecrated. 
 
 On the right of the Jesuit father stood a gallant soldier in 
 the uniform of the Knights of Malta, wearing a scarlet tunic 
 on which was embroidered a purple cross. A velvet cap with a 
 waving plume shaded his broad and handsome brow, and a light 
 rapier completed his equipment. This was Montmagny, the 
 military commandant of Quebec. To the left oi the priest 
 stood a taller and more martial-looking figure, wearing a close- 
 fitting buff jerkin, on his head a steel morion, and girt to his 
 waist a broadsword that had seen hard service in the terrible 
 wars of Flanders. This was the vajiant Maisonneuve, the first 
 Governor of Montreal. Between those two distinguished lay- 
 men a studied and dignified courtesy was maintained, yet 
 marked by a certain stately coldness and hauteur. In fact a 
 feeling of jealousy toward the new commandant had been 
 already manifested by Montmagny, who foresaw in the plant- 
 ing of a new colony the erection of a formidable rival of 
 Quebec, and a diminution of his own hitherto supreme authority. 
 He therefore sought to dissuade Maisonneuve from the enter- 
 prise with which he was commissioned, urging the difficulties 
 and dangers in the way, especially from the opposition of the 
 terrible Iroquois. 
 
 " I have not come to deliberate, out to act," replied the gal- 
 lant soldier. " It is my duty and my honour to found a colony 
 at Montreal ; and though every tree were an Iroquois, I should 
 make the attempt." 
 
 Nor was women's gentle presence wanting to this romantic 
 group. A somewhat pefife figure in a dark conventual dress 
 and snowy wimple, which only made more striking the deathly 
 pallor of her countenance, was she to whom the greatest respect 
 seemed to be paid. Her large dark eyes lit up her counte- 
 nance with a strange light, and revealed the enthusiasm burn- 
 
216 
 
 FIRST MASS. 
 
 ing in her breast, which longed to carry the Gospel even to the 
 remote and inaccessible wilds of the Hurons. This was the 
 devout widow, Madame de la Peltrie, a daughter of the haute 
 nohleaae of Normandy, who, having abandoned wealth and 
 courtly friends, had come the previous year to Quebec, and 
 gladly joined the new colony now about to be established. A 
 lay sister, Mademoiselle Mance by name, a soldier's wife, and a 
 servant of Madame de la Peltrie, completed the little female 
 group. 
 
 A miscellaneous company of soldiers, sailors, artizans and 
 labourers, about forty in all, filled the three little Vessels which, 
 freighted with the fortunes of the infant colony, now approached 
 the strand. As the keel of the pinnace, which was foremost, 
 grated on the pebbly beach, Maisonneuve, seizing the conse- 
 crated banner, lightly leaped ashore, and firmly planting it in 
 the earth, fell upon his knees in glad thanksgiving. Mont- 
 magny, Vimont, and the ladies followed, and the whole com- 
 pany engaging in a devout act of worship, chanted with glad- 
 some voice the sublime mediaeval hymn : 
 
 Vexilla Regis prodeunt ; 
 Fulget crucis mysterium. 
 
 The banners of heaven's King advance ; 
 Tlie mystery of the cross shines forth. 
 
 The shore js soon strewn with stores, bales, boxes, arms and 
 baggage of every sort. An altar is speedily erected and deco- 
 rated with fresh and fragrant flowers that studded the grassy 
 margin of a neighbouring stream. The sacred vessels are ex- 
 posed. Vimont, arrayed in the rich vestments of his oflfice, 
 stands before the altar, and, while the congregation in silence 
 fall upon their knees, celebrates for the first time, amid that 
 riagnificent amphitheatre of nature, the rites of the Roman 
 
 atholic faith. 
 
 At the close of the service the priest invoked the blessing 
 of heaven on the new colony. With a voice tremulous with 
 emotion, turning to his audience he exclaimed, as with pro-, 
 phetic prescience ; 
 
 " You are a grain of mustard-seed that shall rise and grow till 
 
THEN AND NOW. 
 
 217 
 
 its branches overshadow the earth. You are few, but your 
 work is the work of God. His smile is upon you, and your 
 children shall fill the land."* 
 
 No mention is made in the contemporary records of the 
 Jesuits of the Indian village of Hochelaga, described by Jacques 
 Cartier as occupying the site of Montreal a hundred years 
 before. It had, doubtless, been destroyed by Iroquois invasion. 
 The noble stream which bears to-day on its broad bosom the 
 shipping of the world was undisturbed but by the splash of the 
 wild fowl, or the dash of the Indian's light canoe. The moun- 
 tain which gives to the city its name, shagged with ancient 
 woods to the very top, looked down on the unwonted scene. 
 The river front, which now bristles with a forest of masts, was 
 a solitude. Where is daily heard the shriek of the iron horse, 
 peacefully grazed the timid red deer of the woods ; where now 
 spread the broad squares, the busy streets, the stately churches, 
 colleges, stores and dwellings of a crowded population, rose the 
 forest primeval where — 
 
 " the murmuring pines and the hemlocks 
 
 Bearded with moss and with garments green, indistinct in the twilight, 
 
 Stand like Druids of old, with voices sad and projihetic, 
 
 Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms." 
 
 The lengthening shadows crept across the little meadow of 
 the encampment. The fireflies gleamed in the gathering gloom 
 of the adjacent forest. It is narrated that the ladies caught 
 them, and, tying them in glittering festoons, decorated there- 
 with the altar on which the consecrated Host remained. The 
 tents were pitched. The evening meal was cooked at the bivouac 
 fires ; the guards were stationed ; and, clad in silver mail, the 
 sentinel stars came out to watch over the cradle slumbers of 
 Ville-Marie de Montreal. 
 
 With the early dawn the little colony was astir. There was 
 hard work to be done before the settlement could be regarded 
 as at all safe. The ubiquitous and bloodthirsty Iroquois in- 
 fested the forests and watched the portages, sometimes even 
 
 ♦Vimont, Relation dea Jeauites, 1642, p. 37. DoUier de Casson, A.D., 
 1641-42. 
 
218 
 
 THE FIRST FORT. 
 
 swooping down on the Algonquin or Huron allies of the French, 
 under the very guns of Quebec. The first thing that was to be 
 done, therefore, was to erect a fortification. But every under- 
 taking must be hallowed by the rites of religion, and so morn- 
 ing mass was celebrated, while the mayflowers swung their 
 odorous censers, and the dewdrops flashed for altar lights. 
 Prayers and breakfast over, the men all fell to work with zeal. 
 Seizing an axe, and wielding it as dexterously as he had often 
 wielded his good sword on many a hard-fought field, Maison- 
 neuve felled the first tree. As it came crashing down, shaking 
 a shower of dewdrops from its leaves, and waking unwonted 
 echoes in the immemorial forest, the ladies gaily clapped their 
 hands, and the bronzed Norman and Breton soldiers and work- 
 men raised a ringing cheer. 
 
 Fast and hard came the blows. One after another the 
 mighty monarchs of the forest bowed and fell. Some trimmed 
 the fallen trunks; others cut them into uniform lengths. 
 Maisonneuve, assisted by Montmagny and Vimont, traced the 
 outline of a little fort, and, with spade and mattock, with his 
 own hands took part in the excavation of a trench without the 
 lines. It revived, in the classic mind of Vimont, the traditions 
 of the founding of the storied City of the Seven Hills. But 
 here his prescient vision beheld the founding of a new Rome, a 
 mother city of the Catholic faith, which should nourish and 
 bring up children in the wilderness, extending its power over 
 savage races, and its protection to far-off missions. 
 
 In a short time a strong palisade was erected, surrounding a 
 spot of ground situated in a meadow, between the river and the 
 present Place d'Armes, where the vast Parish Church lifts its 
 lofty towers above the city nestling at its feet. The little fort 
 was daily strengthened, a few cannon mounted, and loop-holes 
 made for musketry. 
 
 The deadly Iroquois, through the grace of the Virgin and St. 
 Joseph, the colonists believed, had been prevented from dis- 
 covering the new settlement in its first weakness, and now it 
 was strong enough to resist any sudden attack. A tabernacle, 
 or chapel of bark, after the manner of the Huron lodges, 
 already sheltered the altar. It was decorated with a few 
 
THE FIRST CHRISTMAS. 
 
 219 
 
 pictures and images of Christ, the Virgin Mother, and the 
 Saints, brought across the sea. Substantial log-cabins were 
 also erected for tho Qove *nor and the nuns, and barracks for 
 the soldiers and labourers. 
 
 The 15th of August was a high day at the Ville Marie. It 
 was the anniversary of the Assumption of the Virgin. High 
 mass was celebrated with unusual splendour in the bark chapel, 
 to the astonishment of some Indian visitors who chanced to be 
 present, and who were publicly instructed in the elements of 
 Christianity. A religious procession also took place, to the in- 
 finite delight of the Indians who were permitted to take part 
 in the ceremony. In the afternoon the colonists kept holiday, 
 amid the forest glades, where the songs of the many-plumaged 
 birds and the strangely familiar wild flowers, recalled tender 
 associations of their native land across the sea. In the even- 
 ing, writes the ancient chronicler, they climbed the mountain 
 and beheld the sun set in golden glory over the silver-shining 
 Ottawa, and the tender purple outline of the far slopes of 
 Mount Beloeil, till the shadows lengthening across the plain 
 and covering the little stockaded fort, warned them to return 
 to its sheltering fold. 
 
 The short and busy summer passed happily. The harvest of 
 their meagre acres were gathered in. The little patch of late- 
 sown wheat and barley had greened and goldened in the sun- 
 shine and been carefully reaped. The Indian com had proudly 
 waved its plumes, put foi'th its silken tassels, and now shivered 
 like a guilty thing at the faintest breath of wind. The moun- 
 tain slopes had changed from green to russet, from russet to 
 crimson, purple, orange and yellow, and had flamed like the 
 funeral pyre of summer in the golden haze of autumn. The 
 long-continued rains had swollen the rushing river, which, over- 
 flowing its banks, threatened to wash away the stockade, and 
 destroy the ramparts of the little fort. It was Christmas Eve. 
 The peril of the colonists seemed imminent. They must suffer 
 greatly, and perhaps be exterminated if left houseless and unde- 
 fended at the very beginning of winter. They had recourse to 
 prayer, but it seemed all in vain. At length Maisonneuve, 
 moved, as he believed, by a Divine inspiration, planted a cross 
 
220 
 
 A STRANGE RITE. 
 
 in front of the fort, and made a vow that should the rising flood 
 be staved, he would himself bear on his shoulders a similar 
 cross up the steep and rugged mountain, and plant it on the 
 top. But still the waves increase. They fill the fosse. They 
 rise to the very threshold of the fort. They strike blow on 
 blow at its foundations. But the heart of Maisonneuve bates 
 not a jot of faith and hope; and lo! the waves no longer 
 advance, they lap more feebly at the foot of the fort, thay 
 slowly retire, baffled and defeated, as the colonists believe, by 
 the power of prayer.* 
 
 Maisonneuve hastes to fulfil his vow. He immediately sets 
 men to work, some to prepare a road through the forest and up 
 the most accessible slope of the mountain; others to construct 
 a cross. It is the sixth of January, with " an eager and a nip- 
 ping air," but with a bright sun shining on the unsullied snow. 
 The little garrison is paraded. P^re du Perron leads the waj', 
 Madame de la Peltrie follows, and is succeeded by the entire 
 population of the little bourg. Maisonneuve brings up the rear, 
 bending beneath his heavy cross. The strange procession moves 
 through the wintry forest, and up the mountain slope, now 
 embellished with noble villas, some distance to the west of the 
 reservoir. Refusing all help, the pious commandant walks the 
 entire distance — a full league — bearing his burden and climbing 
 with difficulty the steep ascent, and plants the cross upon the 
 highest summit of the mountain. That cross long stood upon 
 the mountain's brow, clearly outlined against the sky, a me- 
 morial of the signal favour and interposition of heaven. It 
 became an object of devout pilgrimage, and frequently a group 
 of nearly a score knelt at its foot. 
 
 * " On les voyoit rouler de grosses vagues, coup sur coup, remplir les 
 fossez et monter iusques k la porte de I'habitation, et sembler devoir en 
 gloutir tout sans resource . . . . Le dit sieur de Maisonneufve ne perd pas 
 courage, espere voir bientost I'effet de sa priere," etc. Vimont Relation des 
 Jemites, 1643, p. 52. 
 
FOREST PERILS. 
 
 221 
 
 EARLY PROGRESS AND TRIALS. 
 
 In August, 1G43, the little colony was reinforced by a company 
 of recruits from France,under the command of Louis d'Ailleboust, 
 afterwards Governor of Montreal, accompanied by his youthful 
 wife and her beautiful sister, Philippine Boulonge. Under 
 d'Ailleboust's experienced direction the fortifications were 
 greatly strengthened, the wooden palisades being replaced by 
 solid bastions and ramparts of stone and earth. But continued 
 immunity from Iroquois attacks was not to be expected. The 
 mission fortalice amid the forest was at length discovered, and 
 thenceforth became the object of implacable hostility. The 
 colonists could no longer hunt or fish at a distance from its 
 walls, nor even work in the fields under cover of its guns unless 
 strongly armed and in a compact and numerous body. Some- 
 times a single Iroquois warrior would lurk, half-starved, for 
 weeks in the neighbouring thicket for the opportunity to win a 
 French or Huron scalp. And sometimes a large party would 
 form an ambuscade, or throw up a hasty entrenchment, from 
 which they would harass the colonists, who walked in the 
 shadow of a perpetual dread. Maisonneuve, though brave as 
 a lion, was no less prudent than brave. Instead, therefore, of 
 exposing his little garrison, unaccustomed to the wiles and arti- 
 fices of wood-warfare, to a defeat which would prove ruinous, 
 he stood strictly on the defensive. The hot Norman and Breton 
 blood of the soldier-colonists chafed under this, as they thought 
 it, cowardly policy. Mutinous murmurs, and innuendoes that 
 sting to the quick the soldier's pride, became rife, and at length 
 reached the ears of Maisonneuve. 
 
 "The gallant chevalier, is he afraid of the redskins ? " sneer- 
 ingly asks an impetuous Frenchman. 
 
 " If he were not, would he let the dogs act as scouts and 
 sentinels, and keep behind the ramparts himself ? " replies his 
 comrade, referring to the practice of employing sagacious watch- 
 dogs, who had a great antipathy towards the Indians, to give 
 the alarm in case of an incursion of the Iroquois. 
 
 One day, toward the end of the winter of 1643-44, the baying 
 of the hounds gave warning of the presence of the enemy. 
 
222 
 
 IROQUOIS ATTACK. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 " Sir, the Iroquois are in the woods ; are we never to see 
 them ? " demanded the impatient garrison, surrounding the 
 commandant.* 
 
 " Yes, you fHiall see them," he promptly replied, " and that, 
 perhaps, sooner than you wish. See that you make good your 
 vaunts. Follow where I lead." 
 
 At the head of a little band of thirty men, some on snow- 
 shoes and others floundering through the deep snow, Maison- 
 neuve sallied forth against the Iroquois. The enemy were 
 nowhere to be seen. The rash sortie pushed on. Suddenly the 
 air rang with the shrill war-whoop, and thrice their number of 
 painted savages sprang up around them, and poured into their 
 unprotected ranks a storm of arrows and bullets. The Indians, 
 sheltered behind the trunks of the trees, kept up a rapid and 
 galling fire. The French made a gallant stand, but with three 
 of their nUmber slain, others wounded, and two captured, they 
 were compelled to retreat Maisonneuve was the last to retire. 
 He bravely stood covering the retreat of his shattered forces, 
 exposing his person as a target for the Indian arrows and bullets. 
 In single-handed conflict he slew the chief of the Iroquois. The 
 savages, like a tiger disappointed in his spring upon his prey, 
 sullenly drew off into the forest and wreaked their rage upon 
 their two hapless prisoners, whom they tortured with unspeak- 
 able cruelty, and then burned alive.*!* This sharp action took 
 place a little east of thf^ present Place d'Armes, whose name b 
 an appropriate commemoration of the gallantry of the first 
 garrison of Montreal. No further taunts, as we ctji well 
 believe, were uttered against the tried valour of the Sieur de 
 Maisonneuve. 
 
 It is not within the scope of the present sketch to describe 
 the progress of Ville Marie, nor to trace its fortunes during the 
 eventful years of its early history. Not a year, and scarce a 
 month passed in which the ferocious hunters of men did not 
 
 *" Monsieur, les ennemis sont dans le bois; no les irons-nous jamais 
 voir ? " etc. De Casson, 1642-43. 
 
 f'Deux ennemis prisoniers furent bruslez tons vifs pendant quatre 
 iours avec des cruautez espouvantables." Yimont, Belatioru, 1644, 42. 
 
HAIR-BREADTH 'SCAPES. 
 
 223 
 
 swoop down upon the little bourg.* In the disastrous yeai* 1601, 
 the colony lost, in less than a month, over a hundred men, two- 
 thirds of whom were Frenchmen and the rest Algonquins, by 
 the attacks of the Iroquois. The whole country was completely 
 devoured by them.f Like foul harpies or beasts of prey, they 
 pounced upon their victims, and carried off both men and women 
 to unspeakable tortures. One of these fierce chiefs, a savage 
 Nero, so named for his cruelty and crimes, had caused the immo- 
 lation of eighty men to the manes of his brother slain in war, 
 and had killed sixty others with his own hand. 
 
 In September of the same year, 1661, P6re le Maistre accom- 
 panied eight men, who went out to reap the grain near the fort. 
 Retiring a little, in order more peaceably to recite his office, he 
 was suddenly shot down by concealed Iroquois A swift rush 
 and a struggle, and his companions were fugitives or slain. His 
 enemies cut off his head, and one of them assuming his cassock, 
 flaunted his precious spoil in the very face of the garrison.^ 
 
 Nevertheless, notwithstanding all their trials, the hearts of the 
 colonists were sustained by a lofty enthusiasm. Nor were they 
 without signal deliverances, when, as they believed, angelic 
 bucklers turned aside the weapons of their foes and blunted 
 the death-dealing arrow. Thus, on one occasion — it was in the 
 year 1653 — twenty-six Frenchmen were attacked by two hun- 
 dred Iroquois. But, amid a perfect shower of .bullets, not one 
 of the French was harmed, while they were enabled utterly to 
 rout their foe, God wishing to show, the chronicler devoutly 
 adds, that whom He guards is guarded well.§ 
 
 The later history of Montreal is better known. Strong walls 
 and entrenchments were constructed, which not only bade defi- 
 
 ^"11 ne a'est passe aucun raois do I'annee que ces chasseurs ne nous 
 ayent visites a la sourdine tachans de nous surprendre." Mercier, Belation, 
 1653-4. 
 
 t'^Oette Isle s'est tousiours vue gourmandee de ces lutins . . . comme 
 des harpies importune ou comme des oiseaux de proyc," etc. Le Jeune, 
 Belation, 1661, 3. 
 
 X" Luy couperent la teste, et oterent la soutane, marchant pompeuse- 
 ment convert de cette pr^cieuse d^pouille." Le June, Belation, 1661, 3. 
 
 §" Ce que Dieu garde est bien gard^." Mercier, Relation 1653, 3. 
 
221 
 
 OLD LANDMARKS. 
 
 \\ 
 
 ance to savage but to civilized foes. The remains of these may 
 still be seen in the walls of the old artillery barracks on the 
 river front, and their northern limit gave its name to the present 
 Fortification Lane. The arx, or citadel of this semi-feudfil 
 fortress of New France, was on the elevated ground where 
 Notre Dame becomes St. Mary Street, and in the low-roofed, 
 stone-walled old Government House near by we have a relic of 
 
 Bon Skcouks Chukch by Moonuoht. 
 
 
 the ancien regime, the scene of many a splendid display of 
 princely hospitality. 
 
 The old Bon Secours Church, with its steep roof, its graceful 
 spire, and the hucksters' stalls clustering around it, like mendi- 
 cants about the feet of a friar, carries us back to one of the 
 most picturesque periods of the city's history. In the destiuc- 
 tion of the Recollet Church, another ancient landmark has dis- 
 appeared, and only in the pages of history lives the memory of 
 
TIME'S CHANGES. 
 
 225 
 
 the romantic fonntling and early growth of Ville Marie, and of 
 the heroic men and women whose names are interwoven forever 
 ike threads of gold in the fabric of its story. 
 
 THE MONTREAL OF TO-DAY. 
 
 It is always a pleasure to visit the Canadian Liverpool — the 
 commercial metropolis of the Dominion. Its massive majesty 
 of architecture, its quaint, huge-gr.bled, old stone houses, its 
 
 Place u Armes. 
 
 picturesque Catholic churches of the ancien regime, the constant 
 ringing of the many bells, the resonant French language heard 
 on every side, and its foreign-seeming population, nmke it more 
 like Rouen or Paris than like a New World city. Yet " the 
 deadly march of improvement "' is removing the ancient land- 
 marks. Tha huxters' stalls that clung to the walla of the old 
 Church of Notre Dame de Bon Secours, are — mores the pity 
 — torn away. But the queer old church is still intact, with the 
 pious legend above the door — 
 
 15 
 
n 
 
 I 
 
THE MONTREAL OF TO-DAY. 227 
 
 SI I'ainour de Marie 
 , En ton coeur est gvav^, 
 
 En passant ne troublie 
 De lui dire "n Ave. 
 
 The fine group of buildings near the Place d*Armes would do 
 credit to any city on the continent. It is said that no city in 
 the world, except Liverpool and St. Petersburg, can boast such 
 noble docks as those of Montreal. One of the most delightfully 
 quaint old bits of the city is Jacques Cartier Square, with 
 Nelson's Monument, shown in part in one of our cuts, and the 
 old French houses around it. The stone embankment and the 
 n. . ' rlyke along the river front are noble pieces of engineering 
 ii-.i .v-nstruction. 
 
 We know no more lovely drive in Canada than that around 
 the Mountain Park in Montreal, and no grander view than that 
 obtained from its southern terrace. At our feet lies the noble 
 city, with its busy streets, its many churches, its pleasant villas 
 and gardens ; in the distance the noble St. Lawrence, pouring 
 to the sea the waters of half a continent. Like a gigantic 
 centipede creeping across the flood, is seen the many-footed 
 Victoria Bridge, and afar off on the purple horizon the leafy 
 mound of Mt. Beloeil and the blue hills of the Eastern Town- 
 ships. No one familiar with the earlier aspect of this fair city 
 can help cor-rasUng its present with its past. 
 
 "The M<^- •»;rea,! of the present day," says Mr. Sandham, "is far 
 different ' ^ . i :^ of fifty or even twenty years ago. The spirit 
 of improvei^.e'Vi '.u. been in most active and efficient operation. 
 A few years ajc 5fc. Paul, Notre Dame, and other business 
 streets, were narrow thoroughfares, and were ocoup'ed by build 
 ings which were plain in the extreme, the iron doois and shut- 
 ters, which were almost universal, giving the city a heavy, 
 prison-like appearance ; but these buildings were erected to 
 meet dangers not dreaded in the present day. The old land- 
 marks which still remain, point to a time when the inhabitants 
 had to fucvide against the assaults of enemies or the torch of 
 the ince:«'. ry ; or, still more distant, co the early wars between 
 the Indian tribes and the first settlers. These ancient buildings 
 are nearly all destroyed, and their site is now occupied by 
 
228 
 
 FIRST STEAMBOAT. 
 
 palatial stores and dwellings, in almost every style of architec- 
 ture. A quarter of a century of active development has passed, 
 and to-day Montreal stands second to no city upon the continent 
 for the solidity and splendour of buildings erected for commer- 
 cial and other purposes, and in the extent of accommodation 
 at the immese wharves which line the river front, and which 
 appear to be built to last for ages. 
 
 "It derives much of its advantage from its position at the head 
 of ocean navigation, and from iM facilities for commerce. Up 
 to 1809 the only mode of conv \ between Montreal and 
 
 Quebec was by means of stages or jaux, but the time had 
 come when superior accommodation was to be provided. John 
 Molson, Esq., an enterprising and spirited merchant of Montreal, 
 now fitted out the first steamer that ever ploughed the waters 
 of the St. Lawrence. On the 3rd November of this year, the little 
 craft got up steam, shot out into the current, and, after a voyage 
 of thirty-six hours, arrived safely at Quebec, where the whole 
 city crowded to have a look at the nautical phenomenon. It is 
 a fact worthy of record tha^. the second steamer built on this 
 continent was launched at Montreal. Fulton's little steamer 
 first navigated the Hudson; then Molson 's 'Accommodation' 
 cleaved the magnificent waters of the St. Lawrence. 
 
 'The remains of gigantic public works in connection with 
 the cities of the East are the standing theme of wonder with 
 travellers and historians. Great moles, breakwaters, aqueducts, 
 canals, pyramids and immense edifices, strikingly evince the 
 enterprise, skill and wealth of those people, whose very names 
 are lost in the obscurity of ages. Modern architecture and 
 enginfeering are much more superficial. How much, for instance, 
 of modern London, New York or Chicago would survive twenty 
 or thirty centuries of desolation ? The wooden wharves of the 
 latter, which contrast so strangely with the immense extent of 
 the commerce carried on at them, would not survive a hundred 
 years of neglect. It is, however, worthy of remark that 
 Montreal is rather following the ancient than the modern usage 
 in respect to solidity and extent of her public works. The 
 Victoria Bridge is the wonder of the world ; the extensive 
 wharves are not equalled on this continent, and by but few 
 
ADVANTAGE OF POSITION. 
 
 229 
 
 cities in Europe, and nowhere can iSner or more solid public 
 buildings be found. 
 " In its situation, at the confluence of the two great rivers. 
 
 v^^^^H 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 n 
 
 M' 
 
 ".■.;. iV,:A5".*f' 
 
 ■l| 1 
 
 f'iWi'il 
 
 
 1 
 
 ' W J- 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 : i' 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 ^SP 
 
 i - "> 
 
 #tJ^' ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ,■■:■- 
 
 1 r . 
 
 '' 
 
 • -? ^v -. -^ 
 
 «!*' . ^ijst^'- 
 
 ,\- 
 
 , ; * 
 
 
 
 ' i 
 
 In JaCQUJCS CaKTIER tSQUAU£. 
 
 the St. Lawrence and Ottawa ; opposite the great natural high- 
 way of the Hudson and Champlain valley ; at the point where 
 the St. Lawrence ceases to be navigable for ocean .ships, and 
 where that vast river, for the last time in its course to the sea, 
 
280 
 
 PLACE D'ARMES. 
 
 affords a gigantic water power ; at the meeting point of the two 
 races that divide Canada, and in the centre of a ■ fertile plain 
 nearly as large as all England, — in these we recognize a guar- 
 antee for the future greatness of Montreal, not based on the 
 frail tenure of human legislation, but in the unchanging decrees 
 of the Eternal, as stamped on the world He has made. 
 
 " Were Canada to be again a wilderness, and were a second 
 Cartier to explore it, he might wander over all the great regions 
 of Canada and the West, and returning to our Mountain ridge, 
 call it again Mount Boyal, and say that to this point the wealth 
 and trade of Canada must turn." 
 
 We will now briefly note a few of the monuments and public 
 buildings of the city. Conspicuous among these is the Nelson 
 monument. It stands on a pedestal about ten feet high. From 
 the top of this a circular shaft or column rises fifty feet in 
 height and five in diameter. On the top of the pillar is a 
 square tablet, the whole surmounted with a statue of Nelson 
 eight feet in height. He is dressed in full uniform, and decor- 
 ated with the insignia of the various orders of nobility con- 
 ferred upon him. In front of the monument, and pointing to- 
 wards the river, are two pieces of F issian ordnance captured 
 during the war with that country. Our engraving shows the 
 lower part of this picturesque monument on a market day. 
 
 Mr. Sandham thus describes the old Parish Church of Notre 
 Dame : " Before us is the Place d'Armes, or French Square, as 
 it is more familiarly designated. In early days this was a parade 
 ground, on which, doubtless, the gallants and dames of 1700 
 oft-times assembled to witness the military displays made by 
 the French troops under De Ramezay, Frontenac or Vaudreuil. 
 This square has also, in still earlier days, witnessed the hand- 
 to-hand fight between the savage Indian and the French settler, 
 while from the belfry of the old Parish Church rang forth the 
 tocsin of alarm to call the settlers from the outskirts of Ville 
 Marie to the help of their companions. The old church we here 
 refer to stood in part of this square. Its foundations were laid 
 in 1671. The church was built of rough stone, pointed with 
 mortar, and had a high, pitched roof, covered with tin. It was 
 a spacious building and contained five altars. At the grand 
 
STREET ARCHITECTURE. 
 
 231 
 
 altar was an immense wooden image of our Saviour on the 
 Cross. This cross may now be seen on the front of one of the 
 galleries, near the grand altar of the new church. The church 
 was dedicated to the Virgin Mary." 
 
 Its successor, the present parish church, is the largest in 
 America, holding some ten thousand persons. The two lofty 
 towers rise to the height of over two hundred feet. 
 
 The street architecture of Montreal is scarcely surpassed by 
 that of any city on the continent. The view down St. James 
 
 St. James Street Methodist Church. 
 
 Street from the Place d'Armes is one that it would be hard to 
 equal. The new Post Office, the new City Hall, the new banks, 
 and the building of the Young Men's Christian Association, are 
 structures that would be a credit to any city in Christendom. 
 Christ Church Cathedral is one of the finest specimens of 
 ecclesiastical Gothic on the continent, and the new Methodist 
 Church, shown on this page, is considered the finest church 
 belonging to that denomination in the world. 
 
 Montreal boasts the possession of what is, we believe, the 
 largest bridge in the world. In the year 1860, amid the utmost 
 pomp and pageantry, in the name of his august mother, the 
 
 ■m 
 
VICTORIA BRIDGE. 
 
 233 
 
 Prince of Wales drove the last rivet of the magnificent struc- 
 ture that bears her name. Bestriding the rapid current of the 
 St. Lawrence, here nearly two miles wide, on four and twenty 
 massive piers — the centre span being three hundred and thirty 
 feet wide and sixty feet above high water mark — it is one of 
 the grandest achievements of engineering skill in the world. 
 It cost six and a half millions of dollars, and was designed and 
 brought to completion by a distinguished engineer, Alex. M. 
 Ross, and the world-renowned bridge builder, Robert Stephen- 
 son. 
 
 When the bridge was completed, the solidity of the work was 
 tested by placing a train of platform cars, 520 feet in length, 
 extending over two tubes, and loaded, almost to the breaking 
 limit of the cars, with large blocks of stone. To move this 
 enormous load three immense engines were required ; yet be- 
 neath it all, when the train covered the first tube the deflection 
 in the centre amounted to but seven-eighths of an inch, proving 
 conclusively that the work had been erected in a most satisfac- 
 tory and substantial manner. 
 
 The most striking natural phenomenon in the neighbourhood 
 of Montreal is the Lachine Rapids, where the mighty St. Law- 
 rence precipitates itself down a rocky steep. They are consid- 
 ered the most dangerous on the whole river. The surging 
 waters present all the angry appearance of the ocean in a storm; 
 the boat strains and labours ; but unlike the ordinary pitching 
 and tossing at sea, this going down hill by water produces a 
 novel sensation, and is, in fact, a service of some danger, the 
 imminence of which is enhanced to the imagination by the roar 
 of the boiling current. Great nerve and force and precision 
 are here required in piloting, so as to keep the vessel's head 
 straight with the course of the rapid ; a pilot, skilful, experi- 
 enced, and specially chosen for the purpose, takes charge of the 
 wheel, extra hands stand by to assist, while others go aft to the 
 tiller, to be ready to steer the vessel by its means should the 
 wheel tackle by any accident give way ; the captain takes his 
 place by the wheel-house, ready with his bell to communicate 
 with the engineer ; the vessel plunges into the broken and 
 raging waters, she heaves and falls, rolls from side to side, and 
 
Montreal Ice Palace, 
 
LACHhXE KAPWS, 
 
 235 
 
 labours as if she were in a heavy sea, the engine is eased, and 
 the steamer is carried forward with fearful rapidity. Some- 
 times she appears to be rushing headlong on to some frightful 
 rock that shows its black head above the white foam of the 
 breakers ; in the next instant she has shot by it and is making 
 a contrary course, and so she threads her way through the 
 crooked channel these mad waters are rushing down. A few 
 moments suffice for this, and smooth green waters are reached 
 again, and, after shooting beneath the Victoria Bridge, reaches 
 the city of Montreal. 
 
 WINTER SPORXa 
 
 5,3.i:!i: 
 
 Inside the Ice Palace. 
 
 The Montreal Ice Palace was the first ever tried in the New 
 World. The building was made of blocks of ice, forty-two by 
 twenty-four inches, each block weighing five hundred pounds, 
 and the whole structure containing forty thousand cubic feet of 
 ice. Its dimensions were about ninety by ninety feet, with 
 
I 
 
 236 
 
 WINTER SPORTS, 
 
 Obstacle Rao£ on ths Ios. 
 
MONTREAL ICE PALACE. 
 
 237 
 
 rectangular towers at each corner, and a central square tower 
 one hundred feet high. The blocks were " cemented " together 
 by snow for mortar, and then water was pumped on from a hoso, 
 and the whole palace made into one solid piece, so that you 
 couldn't separate one block from another without sawing them 
 apart. *' The Ice Palace," says the writer of this description, 
 " was the most beautiful sight I ever saw in sunlight or moon- 
 light. By the electric light it reminded one of what Charles the 
 Fifth said of Antwerp Cathedral, that it was worthy of being 
 placed under a glass shade. I went on top of the mountain, 
 and looked down at the thousands of lights throughout the 
 city, and at this glowing structure in the middle. It was like 
 fairy-land." 
 
 Toboganing is the nearest thing to flying one can find. One 
 couldn't live long if he kept going at such a speed. The toboc;an 
 's made of two pieces of thin bass wood, about six feet ioiig 
 
 id two feet wide, bent up in front like the dashboard of a 
 .^cigh. It has cross pieces of wood for strength, and long, 
 round sticks at each si<le, and is all clasped together by cat-gut. 
 The Indians make them, and use them to carry the game 
 they shoot over the snow through the woods, and Canadians 
 turn them into use for pastime in sliding down hills. The 
 tobogan is so light that it doesn't sink in soft snow like a 
 cutter, and is so smooth on the bottom that it goes down hill 
 like a shot, especially when the hill is slippery. 
 
 " My first experience of toboganing," continues this writer, 
 " was on the back part of Mount Royal. The toboganing slide 
 here is partly an artificial one. It is a big structure of logs and 
 planks made on an inclined plane, up one side of which there 
 are steps, and down the side beside it a smooth, ice-covered 
 slide. There is room on top like a little platform upon which 
 you settle yourself on your tobogan. To tell the truth, there's 
 no danger on proper hills. A man sits behind and steers with 
 his foot. 
 
 " The sensation is exciting. You lose your breath as the snow 
 dashes up into your face, and you have all the feeling of going 
 on the road to a regular smashup, but before the smash comes, 
 your sleigh eases off as gently as it started, and you get up and 
 
 
 { 
 
 M 
 
238 
 
 SNOW-SHOE CLUB. 
 
 i 
 
 I; 
 
 \' 
 
 |i ' 
 
 Montkkaij Snow-Shok Club. 
 
TOBOGANING. 
 
 23^ 
 
 want to do it again. If you stand to one side of the slide, and 
 see a tobogan whiz past you like a shot, and see the frightened 
 faces of the strangers who are having their first try, you feel as 
 
 TOBOQANINO ON MoUNT llOYAL. 
 
 if you were looking at a group who were going to destruction , 
 but by-and-bye you see them coming up hill again laughing at 
 their fears. 
 " What a city Montreal is for sleighing ! No sloppy roads one 
 
 »"»P^«««PW*Li (11 iVWiiLL 'I 
 
240 
 
 SLEIGHING, 
 
 day and hard ones the next. No wheels to-day and runners 
 to-morrow. A constant jingle of bells, and quick trot of horses, 
 and all kinds of sleighs, rough and handsome, little and big. 
 On the civic half -holiday, there were over two thousand sleighs 
 in the procession in which the hackmen joined. After the 
 drive, we stopped at McGill College gate and saw the snow- 
 shoers start to run to the top of the mountain and back, a dis- 
 tance of about three miles cross country. They think nothing 
 
 Games ok the River. 
 
 of running to the Back River, eight miles ; and they go to 
 Lachine and back, or some other place, every Saturday, about 
 twenty miles, just for the sport of the thing. It was great fun 
 to see some of the most eager fellows going headlong into the 
 deep snow when they tried to pass those ahead. Snowshoes 
 are of Indian origin, made of light ash, bent to an oval, and the 
 ends fastened together with cat-gut. The interior is then crossed 
 with two pieces of flat wood to strengthen the frame, and the 
 whole is woven with cat-gut, like a lawn tennis bat. An open- 
 ing is left for the motion of the toes in raising the heel in 
 

 SA'O \V-SHOEh\G. 
 
 241 
 
 stepping out. The netting sustains tlie weight of the body, and 
 the shoe sinks only an inch or two, and when one foot is bear- 
 ing the weight the other is lifted up, and over, and onwards. 
 The shoes are fastened to the moccasined feet bjr thongs of 
 deer-skin. In the evening of the inauguration of the Ice 
 Palace, everybody came to Dominion Square, where there was 
 every sort of light but sunlight. The Ice Palace looked like 
 glass ; and I never saw anything so beautiful as when they 
 burned blue, green, crimson and purple fires inside. By-and-bye 
 the procession of fifteen hundred men appeared in club uniforms, 
 each carrying a lighted torch in one hand, and discharging 
 Roman candles from the other. After going around the Palace, 
 the procession headed for the mountain, went up the old snow- 
 shoe track, and returned down the zigzag road, singing as they 
 swung along, 
 
 •' 'Tramp 1 tramp 1 on snow-shoes tramping, 
 All the day we marching go, 
 Till at night by fires encamping 
 We find couches mid the snow 1 " 
 
 "From the city below the sight was picturesque. The long, 
 serpentine trail was seen moving in and out, and twisti; like 
 a huge firesnake, while the Roman candles shot their bails of 
 fire into the air. It was a grand and wild sight to see them 
 coming back. A snow-storm had set in, and the flickering 
 lights, the costumes, the sturdy, steady tramp of the fellows 
 made one think of a midnight invasion by an army." 
 
 Hi 
 
 10 
 
 m 
 
t 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
:-'. ■fl:,.,/..lr'-'.TT7'T^"v7'T"'Bff 
 
 ONTARIO— ITS EXTENT AND RESOURCES. 243 
 
 ONTARIO. 
 
 WE are now about to enter the Province of Ontario, and 
 a brief reswmA as to its extent and characteristics will 
 not be out of place. 
 
 Ontario is the most populous and wealthy province of the 
 Dominion of Canada, and its growth has been exceedingly 
 rapid. It has an area of 197,000 square miles, including the 
 recent extension of its boundaries. But, as has been well said, 
 " Comparisons bring out colours. Few realize from the mere 
 quotations of figures the enormous extent of our great country. 
 For instance, Ontario is larger than Spain, nearly as large as 
 France, nearly as large as the great German Empire, as large 
 as Sweden, Denmark and Belgium, and larger than Italy, 
 Switzerland, Denmark, Belgium and Portugal." 
 
 The Province of Ontario reaches the most southern point of 
 the Dominion, namely, to the latitude of Rome in Italy; and 
 being in a large measure surrounded by the great lakes of the 
 continent of North America, its climate is much modified by 
 their influence. The principal source of its w«ialth is agricul- 
 ture, and it may be said to take the lead in the farming oper- 
 ations of the Dominion. 
 
 OTTAWA. 
 
 Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, may be reached either 
 by rail by the Canada Pacific or by sailing up the Ottawa. We 
 shall describe the former route first. Taking the train at the 
 C. P. R. station, on the site of the quaint old French barracks, 
 we sweep around the many-towered city, and cross the " Back 
 River" at the historic Sault au Recollet We traverse the 
 Isle Jesus with its charming villages of St. Martin, Ste. Rose de 
 Lima and St. Vincent de Paul. Indeed, the whole route is 
 
244 
 
 07-7-^ JVA. 
 
 I 
 
 studded with picturesque hamlets bearing such names as L'Ange 
 Gardien, Ste. Thdr^se, Ste. 8cholastique, St. Eustache, and many 
 another holy saint; with their broad-eaved, curved-roofed 
 houses, and large stone churches, with their cross-crowned 
 twin towers or spires gleaming brightly in the sun. For the 
 greater part of the way, on the left, stretch long shining 
 reaches of the river, studded with tree-clad islands. To the 
 right rise the outlines of the Laurentides, clothed with verdure 
 
 Pabliambnt Buildings, Ottawa, from the River. 
 
 to the very summits. At length comes into view, on a bold 
 bluff above the river, the most picturesque architectural group 
 on this continent, and, sweeping over a long railway bridge 
 above the Chaudi^re Falls, we glide into the city of Ottawa. 
 
 It fosters one's feelings of patriotic pride to visit the capital 
 of the Dominion. The Parliament and Departmental buildings 
 /form one of the most imposing architectural groups in the 
 world, and their site is one of unsurpassed magnificence, 
 'ground a lofty cliff, tree-clad from base to summit, sweeps the 
 Wiajestic Ottawa ; to the left resounds the everlasting thunder of 
 
THE PARLIAMENT ■ B UILDINGS. 
 
 245 
 
 the Chaudi^re, and in the distance rise the purple slopes of the 
 Laurentians. The broken outline of the many-towered build- 
 ings against the sunset sky is a picture never to be forgotten. 
 The two finest features of the group, we think, are the poly- 
 gonal shaped library, with its flying buttresses, its steep conical 
 roof, its quaint carvings and tracery ; and the great western 
 tower rising, Antseus-like, from the earth, pausing a moment, 
 and then, as if with a mighty effort, soaring into the sky. The 
 view of this tower from the " Lover's Walk " beneath the cliff 
 resembles some of Dora's most romantic creations. 
 
 The Parliament buildings and Departmental offices are the 
 finest specimen of Gothic architecture on the continent. They 
 illustrate the remarkable flexibility and adaptation to modern 
 purposes of that grand style. Like Cleopatra's beauty, " Age -^ 
 cannot wither nor custom stale its infinite variety." 
 
 The details of the buildings will repay careful study. Each 
 capital, finial, crocket, corbel and gargoyle is different from 
 every other. Grotesque faces grin at one from the cornices, 
 and strange, twi-formed creatures crouch as in act to spring, or 
 struggle beneath the weight they bear. Canadian plants and 
 flowers and chaplets of maple, oaks and ferns form the capitals 
 of the columns, amid which disport squirrels, marmots and 
 birds. 
 
 The C'^mmons chamber seems crowded and rather sombre, 
 much more so than the spacious and splendid Congress chamber 
 at Washington. More copious reports, I was informed, were "] 
 sent from this chamber to the public press than were despatched / 
 by telegraph from any Legislature in the world. 
 
 The Senate chamber has an air of greater luxury and dignity 
 than that or the Commons, as is meet for that august body. 
 The library, both externally and internally, is a perfect gem of 
 architecture; but still more attractive to me are its valuable 
 contents. It is admirably arranged for reference, and thxough 
 the courtesy of the polite attendants, any book on the shelves 
 is promptly placed at one's disposal. It is especially rich in rare 
 and costly works on art and archaeology, many of which were 
 presented by the late Emperor of the French, and bear his 
 monogram. ^ Among the treasures of the library are Ferret's 
 
 ' 
 
 %. 
 
246 
 
 PICTURESQUE POSITION. 
 
 Catacombs, in seven huge volumes; the Musde du Louvre, in 
 eighty-one folios ; the Mus^e Fran9ais, etc. The documentary 
 materials for the history of Canada are also very rich. 
 
 The bird's-eye view shows the arrangement of buildings on 
 the ground. The view is taken from the side of the river 
 opposite the city. To the extreme right are the Falls of the 
 Chaudifere and the Suspension Bridge, with the vast acreage of 
 
 City of Ottawa. 
 
 lumber piles and mills from which float down the rafts shown 
 in the river. Midway across the picture is the bold bluff 
 on which the Parliament buildings stand. Running up to the 
 left of this is the Rideau Canal, with its many locks, rising like 
 steps in a gigantic stair. Across the canal is the beautiful park, 
 commanding full views of the river, of the opposite hill, and 
 of the far-stretching Laurentian range. 
 
TIMBER SLIDES. 
 
 247 
 
 The rapids commence a few miles above the city, but here, ,' 
 says Mr. S. E. Dawson, the channel contracts and the broad 
 and rapid river, obstructed and tormented by islands and rocks, 
 falls thirty feet over a steep limestone cliff into a basin well 
 named the Chaudifere, or caldron ; for it is a cavity in the bed 
 of the river in which the water foams and seethes. Such a 
 gigantic water-power is of course utilized, and here some of 
 the largest lumber manufactures in the Dominion are situated. 
 
 Parliament Buildings. 
 
 Close at hand are the timber slides, by which the lumber from 
 the upper river passes down without damage into the navigable 
 water below. To go down these slides upon a crib of timber is 
 a unique experience a visitor should endeavour to make ; for, 
 while it is unattended with danger, the novelty and excitement 
 are most absorbing. Close to the city also are the Rideau Falls, 
 which, though not approaching the Chaudifere in importance, 
 are worth visiting. They fall perpendicularly down like a 
 great curtain, whence the name. 
 
 \ % 
 
 
 tl 
 
 \ 
 
 1 ! 
 
248 
 
 THE LOWER OTTAWA. 
 
 The grounds at Rideau Hall are spacious and beautifully laid 
 out, and here a succession of Governors-General have dispensed 
 a graceful hospitality. 
 
 DOWN THE OTTAWA. 
 
 The sail down the Ottawa to Montreal is one of much interest. 
 
 For over two hundred years this noble river has been the chief 
 
 route for fur-traders, voyageurs and trappers to the north-west. 
 
 Two hundred and sixty years ago Champlain threaded its 
 
 
 Departmental Buildinos— East Block. 
 
 mazes to their source, and reached by way of Lake Nipissing 
 and the French River, the " Mer Douce," or fresh-water sea of 
 Huron. 
 
 Descending the river from the capital the tourist will see, 
 says Mr. W. E. Dawson, on the north side the mouth of the 
 Gatineau, a large and important lumbering stream, which has 
 been surveyed for three hundred miles from its junction. 
 Eighteen miles further, the Lievre river, after a course of two 
 hundred and eighty miles, enters the Ottawa, Four miles 
 from its mouth is the village of Buckingham. The water- 
 
THE THEKMOPYL^ OF CANADA. 
 
 249 
 
 power of the Lifevre is enormous, for the river is very deep and 
 has a fall at Buckingham of nearly seventy feet. Here are 
 also mines of plumbago, of phosphates and of mica. 
 
 Passing the pretty village of L'Orignal, we take the train 
 from Grenville to Carillon, to avoid the rapids of the " Chute- 
 a-Blondeau." 
 
 At Carillon, in the year IGGO, a band of seventeen young and 
 gallant French Canadians from Montreal, by an act of heroism 
 
 '■A'fl.N.CJ 
 
 iS 
 
 Departmental Bcildings— West Block. 
 
 as sublime as any recorded on the page of history, sacrificed 
 their lives for the defence of their country. With a valour 
 worthy of Leonidas, they withstood the assault of an invading 
 horde of seven hundred infuriate Iroquois. For eight long days 
 and nights, worn with hunger, thirst and want of sleep, they 
 fought, and prayed, and watched by turns. Every Frenchman 
 was slain, but the colony was saved. The pass of Carillon was 
 the Thermopylae of Canada. To-day the bright waters ripple 
 and shimmer in the sun, and the peaceful wheat fields wave 
 upon the scene of this gallant, yet almost forgotten, exploit. 
 
250 
 
 OKA. 
 
 The storj' is well told in George Murray's ballad : 
 
 " Eight days of varied horror passed ; what boots it now to tell 
 Huw the palo tenants of the fort heroically fell ? 
 Hunger, and thirst, and sleeplessness, Death's ghastly aids, at length, 
 Marred and defaced their comely forms, and quelled their giant strength. 
 The end draws nigli — they yearn to die — one glorious rally more, 
 For the dear sake of Ville-Marie and all will soon be o'er ; 
 Sure of the martyr's golden Crown, they shrink not from the Cross, 
 Life yielded for the land they love, they scorn to reckon loss." 
 
 We now enter the Lake of Two Mountains, one of those 
 
 Post Office, Oitawa. 
 
 beautiful expanses which vary the scenery of Canadian rivers. 
 At the mouth of the Riviere a la Graisse is the pretty town 
 Rigaud, with its tinned roofs and large French college. 
 
 The level landscape and elm-reflecting lake at St. Placide 
 make the name of the village a peculiarly appropriate designa- 
 tion. Passing Como, a pleasant summer resort, we reach Oka, 
 an Indian settlement on a seigniory granted by Louis XIV. to 
 the Sulpicians two hundred years ago. The pretty village, at 
 the time of our visit, had a deserted look, most of the Indians 
 being for the time driven from their homes by the persecutions 
 
STE. ANNES. 
 
 251 
 
 of the Seminary ; and the chapel and convent, w nich occupied 
 a point jutting into the river, being a mass of ruins. One of 
 the Sulpician priests, who embarked on the steamer at Oka, 
 with whom I entered into conversation, was very anxious to 
 make a favourable impression as to the policy of the Seminary. 
 He divided his time between reading his breviary and de- 
 nouncing, in broken English, the Methodists, who, he said, were 
 the cause of all the trouble. 
 
 Ste. Anne's is a pretty picturesque village, with a large cross- 
 crowned ^l.arch, near the junction of the Ottawa with the St. 
 Lawrence. Here, dimpling in the bright sunlight, are the rapids 
 celebrated in Moore's " Canadian Boat Song : " 
 
 " Faintly as tollg the evening chime, 
 Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep timo. 
 Soon OS the woods on shore look dim 
 We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. 
 
 Bow, brothers, row ; the stream runs fast, 
 The Eapids are near, and the daylight's puat. 
 
 •• Uttawa's tide ! this trembling moon 
 Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. 
 Snint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; 
 O, grant us cool heavens and favouring airs ! 
 Blow, breezes, blow ; the stream runs fast, 
 The Bapids are near, and the daylight's past." 
 
 As the two mighty rivers, which drain half a continent, join 
 their streams, their waters run for miles side by side without 
 mingling — the one of a tawny yellow tinge, the other of a deep 
 cerulean blue. 
 
 Rising behind the village are the two mountains from which 
 the lake derives its name. The one with the cross is named 
 Mount Calvary. Chapels, seven in number, are built at 
 intervals up the ascent for the seven stations of the Cross. 
 This pilgrimage is often made by the faithful, and much bodily 
 as well as spiritual good is stated to have resulted. 
 
\n\ 
 
 252 
 
 KINGSTON PENITENTIARY. 
 
 KINGSTON AND THE UPPER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 The beauty of the upper St. Lawrence is best seen by a aail 
 down that majestic stream. We shall therefore describe the 
 trip by steamboat from Kingston down. The ancient capital of 
 Upper Canada, or the " Limestone City," as it is called, from 
 the prevailing material of its peculiarly substantial architec- 
 ture, presents many features of interest. One of these is 
 the Tete du Pont Barracks on the sitt of the Frontenac's old 
 fort, built in 1673. Fort Henry is a very elaborate fortress 
 with deep stone-lined ditches, ramparts, casemates, and store 
 and barrack accommodation for a thousand men. I was sur- 
 prised at the extent and strength of its works and of the out- 
 lying martello towers and earthworks. 
 
 The other chief attraction of the city, from the tourist point 
 of view, is the Penitentiary. Through the courtesy of the 
 accomplished warden. Dr. Lavell, I was permitted to make a 
 thorough inspection of the workshops, hospital, lunatic asylum 
 and prisons — including the underground dungeons for the pun- 
 ishment of refractory prisoners. I was shut up for a while in 
 one of these cells. It was the darkest experience I had since I 
 was locked up in a dungeon of the Doges' prison at Venice. 
 The darkness, like that of Egypt, might be felt. The work- 
 shops, for Comfort and cleanliness, we think cannot be surpassed 
 in the world. Few free workmen labour under such favourable 
 conditions. It was sad to see so many young men and young 
 women spending the prime of thei.' years behind prison bars. 
 The discipline of the prison is reformatory as well as punitive. 
 It is possible for a convict to considerably abridge the period 
 of his sentence by good behaviour. Moral influences are largely 
 employed. Two chaplains devote their services to the prisoners. 
 A good library h supplied. Habits of industry are cquired. 
 Many learn a good trade and are better cared for in body and 
 mind than they ever were before. 
 
 The public buildings of Kingston are substantial and hand- 
 some. The p'ost prominent among these is Queen's University 
 — a college of the Presbyterian Church. Under the- presidency of 
 Dr. Grant, one of the most accomplished of Canadian scholars 
 and writers, it has attained a well merited celebrity. 
 
FOUNDING OF KINGSTON. 
 
 253 
 
 The founding of Kingston, like that of Montreal, is full of 
 romantic interest. One of the first acts of Frontenac, on assum- 
 ing the Vice-Royalty of New France in 1672, was the planting 
 of a fort and trading-post at the foot of Lake Ontario, both 
 lonjr known bv his name, in order to check the interference of 
 the English from Albany and New York with the fur trade of 
 the Indian allies of the French, and to prevent the inroads of 
 the Iroquois in the event of war. The merchants of Montreal, 
 Three Rivers, nnd Quebec were exceedingly jealous of the 
 
 Military Colleqe, Kingston. 
 
 establishment of the fort, from a well-grounded apprehension 
 that it would seriously affect their profits, by intercepting no 
 small share of the lucrative fur-trade. Frontenac, however, by 
 an imperious exercise of the royal authority, commanded the 
 inhabitants of these settlements to furnish, at their own cost, a 
 number of armed men and canoes for that very purpose. In 
 the month of June, he collected, at Montreal, a force of four 
 hundred men, including mission Indians, with a hundred and 
 twenty canoes, and two large flat-boats. These last he caused 
 to be painted with glaring devices of red and blue, in order to 
 dazzle the Iroquois by a display of unaccustomed magnificence. 
 
 wmumaammii 
 
 " i T ii mr 
 
254 
 
 FOUNDING OF KINGSTON. 
 
 Frontenac infused his own indomitable energy into his little 
 army. In two weeks they had overcome, with incredible toil, 
 the difficulties of the Rapids and, threading the lovely mazes 
 of the Thousand Islands, reached the waters of Lake Ontario. 
 Frontenac had previously despatched La Salle, who had re- 
 turned from his first expedition to the West, and in whom he 
 discerned a spirit kindred to his own, to summon deputies from 
 the Iroquois towns to meet him at Cataraqui, the destined site 
 of the new fort. A large number of Iroquois were already 
 encamped when Frontenac approached. Forming his little 
 flotilla in battle array, he advanced with much military 
 pomp, and landed near the site of the present city of Kingston.* 
 Bivouac fires were soon lighted, guards set, and the "qui vive " 
 of the French sentry was heard on the shores of Lake Ontario. 
 
 The next morning, with roll of drums and much presenting 
 of drms, the Iroquois deputies were conducted, between glit- 
 tering files of soldiers, to the presence of the Governor and his 
 staft, who were arrayed in their most brilliant uniforms. The 
 stately manners and masterful address of Frontenac, — a born 
 ruler of men, by turns haughty and condescending, imperious 
 and winning, — impressed the savages with respect, confidence, 
 and good-will no less than did the splendour of his appearance 
 and retinue. 
 
 "Children!" he said, — not "brothers," as the French had 
 previously called them, — " I am glad to see you. You did well 
 to obey the command of your Father. Take courage ; you 
 shall hear His word, which is full of peace and tenderness." 
 
 He then magnified the power of the French, and, pointing 
 to the cannon of his brilliantly painted flat-boats, admonished 
 them of the consequences of disobeying his commands. He set 
 forth the advantages of his friendship, and of the establishment 
 of the new trading-post, and urged the claims of the Christian 
 religion, both by its terrors and its rewards. The speech was 
 accompanied by politic presents, — "six fathoms of tobacco," 
 guns for the men, and prunes and raisins for the women and 
 children, and generous feasts for all. 
 
 *0n the point to the west of the Cataraqui Bridge, at present occupied 
 by the barracks. 
 
THE UPPER ST. LAWRENCE, 
 
 256 
 
 Meanwhile the construction of the fort went rapidly forward. 
 Trees were felled, trenches dug, and palisades planted, with a 
 speed that astonished the indolent Indians. In ten days the 
 fort was nearly completed, and leaving a sufficent force for its 
 defence, by the 1st of August Frontenac reached Montreal. 
 The grasp of a master's hand was felt. ' France held the key of 
 the great lakes. 
 
 The view of Kingston on page 253, shows in the foreground 
 one of the quaint martello towers that guard the harbour; in the 
 middle distance, the Military College, where Canadian j'ouths 
 are trained for the service of their country; and in the back- 
 ground, the city with its imposing public buildings and churches. 
 
 We embark at Kingston for the sail down the majestic St. 
 Lawrence. 
 
 With the exception of the Amazon at its flood, the St. Law- 
 rence is the largest river in the world. Its basin contains more 
 than half of all the fresh water on the planet. At its issue 
 from Lake Ontario it is two and a half miles wide, and is sel- 
 dom less than two miles. At its mouth it is upwards of thirty 
 miles wide, and at Cape Gaspe the Gulf is nearly a hundred 
 miles wide. 
 
 There are three features of special interest in the St. Law- 
 rence — the Thousand Islands, the Rapids, and the highlands of 
 the north shore from Quebec down. The first are the perfection 
 of beauty, the second are almost terrible in their strength, and 
 the last are stern and grand, rising at times to the sublime. The 
 noble river has been made the theme of a noble poem by Charles 
 Sangster, a Canadian writer, who is too little known in his own 
 country. I am glad of the opportunity to enrich these pages 
 with quotations from his spirited verse. 
 
 The Lake of the Thousand Islands begins immediately below 
 Kingston, and stretches down the river for forty or fifty miles, 
 varying from six to twelve miles in width. This area is pro- 
 fusely strewn with islands of all sizes, from the little rock, giv- 
 ing precarious foothold to a stunted juniper or a few wild 
 flowers, to the large island, stretching in broad farms and wav- 
 ing with tall and stately forests. Instead of a thousand, there 
 are in all some eighteen hundred of these lovely isles. 
 
 
 i 
 
 \ 
 
 
"W " ' \ 
 
 256 
 
 "NATURE'S CARNIVAL OF ISLES." 
 
 Sailing out of broad Ontario, we leave on the left the Lime- 
 stone City, our Canadian Woolwich, with its martello towers 
 and forts. Here, during the war of 1812-15, was built a large 
 line-of-battle ship of 132 guns, at a cost of £850,000, much of 
 the timber, and even water casks, i'or use on these unsalted seas, 
 being sent out from England. At the close of the war it was 
 sold for a couple of hundred pounds. 
 
 THE THOUSAND ISLES. 
 
 Passing Forts Henry and Frederick, we enter the lovely 
 Archipelago of the St. Lawrence — " Nature's carnival of isles." 
 On they come, thronging to meet us and to bid us welcome to 
 their fairy realm. They are of all conceivable shapes and sizes, 
 
 TwiLiaHT AMID THK THOUSAND ISLANDS. 
 
 scattered in beauteous confusion upon the placid stream. Some 
 are festooned and garlanded with verdurous vines, like a young 
 wife in her bridal tire, wooing the river's fond embrace. Others 
 seem sad and pensive, draped with grave and solemn foliage, 
 like a widow's weeds of woe. 
 
 Here the river banks slope smoothly to the water's edge, and 
 the thronging trees come trooping down, like a herd of stately- 
 antlered stags, to drink ; or like Pharaoh's daughter and her 
 train to the sacred Nile. See where the white-armed birch, the 
 lady of the forest, stands ankle deep in the clear stream, and 
 laves its beauteous tresses. And behold, where the grey old 
 rocks rear themselves like stern-browed giants above the waves, 
 grave and sad, tear-stained and sorrowful — brooding, perchance, 
 of the old years before the flood. See with what nervous energy 
 
THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 
 
 257 
 
 they cling, those timorous-looking pines, with their bird-like 
 claws grappling the rock as tenaciously as the vulture holds his 
 prey, or a miser's skinny fingers clutch his gold. 
 
 Here is a shoal of little islets looking like a lot of seals just 
 lifting their heads above the waves and pearing cautiously 
 around — you would scarce be surprised to see them dive and 
 reappear under your very eyes. And over all float the white- 
 winged argosies of fleecy clouds sailing in that other sea, the 
 ambient air in whose 
 
 lower strata we crawl, 
 like crabs upon the 
 ocean floor. How 
 beautiful they are, 
 those spiritual-looking 
 clouds ! How airily 
 they float in the trem- 
 ulously palpitating, 
 infinite blue depths of 
 sunny sky, like the 
 convoy of snowy-pin- 
 ioned angels in the 
 picture of the Assump- 
 tion of St. Catharine, 
 bearing so tenderly her 
 world-weary but tri- 
 umphant spirit, white- 
 robed and amaranth- 
 crowned, rejoicing 
 
 from her cruel martyrdom, and holding in her hand the victor 
 palm, floating, floating, serenely away, — 
 
 " To summer high in bliss upon the hills of God." 
 
 Or seem they not like islands of the blessed, floating on a 
 halcyon sea. How delicate they are, these snowy Alps on Alp 
 in gay profusion piled, and yet as white and soft as carded wool 
 — so remote, so ethereal, so uncontaminated with the dust and 
 defilement of earth. Thus do some souls appear to live above 
 the cares of earth, on the cool, sequestered hills of life, free from 
 17 
 
 _Sfe©S^ 
 
 The Devil's Oven, Thousand Islands. 
 
 
 \i 
 
 wi w.ujHj jBM itmitfgT 
 
258 
 
 ISLAND VISTAS. 
 
 the dust and defilement of sin. They seem to breathe a purer 
 atmosphere, to be visited by airs from heaven, and to hold com- 
 munion with its blessed spirits. 
 
 What lovely vistas open up before us as our steamer glides, 
 swan-like, on her devious way. Now the islands seem to block 
 up the path, like sturdy highwaymen, as if determined to arrest 
 our progress. We seem to be immured in this intricate maze 
 like Diedalous within the Cretan Labyrinth. Now, like the 
 rocky doors in Ali-Baba's story, as by some magic " Open sesame," 
 
 Among tue Islands. 
 
 they part and stand aside and close again behind us, vista after 
 vista unfolding in still increasing loveliness. How the smiling 
 farm-houses wave welcome from the shore, and the patient 
 churches stand, like Moses interceding for the people's sins, 
 invoking benediction on the land, and pointing weary mortals 
 evermore to heaven. All nature wears a look of Sabbath calm, 
 and seems to kneel with folded hands in prayer. See that lone 
 sea-gull, " like an adventurous spirit hovering o'er the deep," or 
 like the guardian angel of the little bark beneath. What a 
 blessed calm broods o'er the scene ! The very isles seem lapped 
 in childhood's blessed sleep. 
 
THE ISLANDS IN VERSE. 
 
 259 
 
 Isle after isle 
 Is passed, as we glide tortuously throutjh 
 The opening vistas, that uprise and sniilo 
 Ui)()U us from th-i ever-changing view. 
 Here nature, lavish of her wealth, did strew 
 Her flocks of panting islets on the breast 
 Of the admiring river, where they grew, 
 
 " Nature's Cabnfval of Isles," 
 Thousand Islands. 
 
 Like shapes of beauty, formed to give a zest 
 To the charmed mind, like waking visions of the blest. 
 
 Red walls of granite rise on either hand, 
 Rugged and smooth ; a proud young eagle soars 
 Above the stately evergreens, that stand 
 Like watclif ul sentinels on these God-built towers ; 
 
 TT i rm rr i tl 
 
260 
 
 RIVER TOWNS. 
 
 And near yon beds of many-colored flowers 
 Browse two majestic deer, and at their side 
 A spotted fawn all innocently cowers; 
 In the rank brushwood it attempts to hide, 
 While the strong-antlered stag steps forth with lordly stride. 
 
 On, through the lovely Archipelago, 
 Glides the swift bark. Soft summer matins ring 
 From every isle. The wild fowl come and go, 
 Regardless of our presence. On the wing. 
 And perched upon the boughs, the gay birds sing 
 Their loves : This is their summer paradise ; 
 From morn till night their joyous caroling 
 Delights the ear, and through the lucent skies 
 Ascends the choral hymn in softest symphonies. 
 
 Yon lighthouse seems like a lone watcher keeping ceaseless 
 vigil the livelong night for some lost wanderer's return; or like 
 a new Prometheus, chained forever to the rock, and holding 
 
 ii?r--^r 
 
 ■^^■^rr~''''T;^^l?;7;r^'^s:»r-??^sr'i'^ 
 
 
 LioHTUocsE IN Thousand Islands.' 
 
 aloft the heaven-stolen fire ; or like a lone recluse in his still 
 hermitage, nightly lighting up his votive lamp to guide bewil- 
 dered wayfarers amid the storm. 
 
 Brockville, Prescott, Iroquois, Morrisburg and Cornwall, are 
 pleasant towns on the Canadian side of the river ; and on the 
 American side, Clayton, Morriston and Ogdensburg. Near Pres- 
 cott rises the quaint and ruined windmill, the mute witness of 
 the heroic defence, by stout-hearted Canadian militia, of their 
 hearths and homes at the battle of Crysler's Farm. 
 
 On the bank of the majestic St. Lawrence, about midway 
 between the thriving town of Prescott and the picturesque 
 village of Maitland, on the Canada side, but in full view from 
 the American shore, lies a lonely graveyard, which is one of 
 
BARBARA HECK. 
 
 261 
 
 the most hallowed spots in the broad area of the continent. 
 Here, on a gently rising ground overlooking the rushing river, 
 is the quiet " God's acre," in which slumbers the dust of that 
 saintly woman who is honoured in both hemispheres as the 
 mother of Methodism in both the United States and Canada. 
 On a bright day in October, I made, in company with my 
 friend, the Rev. T. G. Williams, a pilgrimage to this place 
 invested with so many tender memories. The whole land 
 was ablaze with autumn's glowing tints, each bank and 
 knoll and forest clump, like Moses' bush, " ever burning, ever 
 unconsumed." An old wooden church, very small and very 
 quaint, fronts the passing highway. It has seats but for forty- 
 eight persons, and is still used on funeral occasions. Its tiny 
 tinned spire gleams brightly in the sunlight, and its walls have 
 been weathered by many a winter storm to a dusky gray. 
 Around it on every side "heaves the turf in many a mouldering 
 mound," for during well-nigh one hundred years it has been 
 the burying-place of the surrounding community. A group of 
 venerable pines keep guard over the silent sleepers in their 
 narrow beds. But one grave beyond all others arrests our 
 attention. At its head is a plain white marble slab on a gray 
 stone base. On a shield-shaped panel is the following inscrip- 
 tion : 
 
 IN MEMORY OF 
 
 PAUL HECK, 
 
 BORN 1730, DIED 1792. 
 
 BARBARA, 
 
 WIFE OF PAUL HECK, 
 BORN 1734, DIED AUG. 17, 1804. 
 
 And this is all. Sublime in its simplicity; no laboured 
 epitaph; no fulsome eulogy; her real monument is the Meth- 
 odism of the New World. 
 
 Near by are the graves of seventeen other members of the 
 Heck family. Among them is that of a son of Paul and Bar- 
 bara Heck, an ordained local preacher, whose tombstone bears 
 the following inscription : " Rev. Samuel Heck, who laboured 
 
262 
 
 HISTORIC SOUVENIRS. 
 
 in his Master's vineyard for upwards of thirty-eight years. 
 Departed this life in the triumphs of faith on the 18th of 
 August, 1844, aged seventy-one years and twenty-one days." 
 Another Samuel Heck, son of the above-named, a Wesleyan 
 minister, died in 1846, aged, as is recorded with loving minute- 
 ness, "thirty years, seven months, fifteen uays." To the 
 members of this godly family the promised blessing of the 
 righteous, even length of days, was strikingly vouchsafed. On 
 six graves lying side by side I noted the following ages: 73, 
 78, 78, 53, 75, 59. On others I noted the following oges : 63, 
 62, 70, 70. I observed, also, the grave of little Barbara Heck, 
 aged three years and six months. The latest dated grave is 
 that of Catharine Heck, a granddaughter of Paul and Barbara 
 Heck, who died 1880, aged seventy-eight years. She was de- 
 scribed by my friend Mr. Williams — who, while I made t^ -se 
 notes, sketched the old church — as a saintly soul, handsome in 
 person, lovely in character, well educated, and refined. She 
 bequeathed at her death a generous legacy to the Missionary 
 Society of the Methodist Church of Canada. Near the grave 
 of Barbara Heck is that of her life-long companion and friend, 
 the beautiful Catharine Sweitzer, who married at the age of 
 sixteen Philip Embury. Here also is the grave of John Law- 
 rence, a pious Methodist who left Ireland with Embury, and 
 afterwards married his widow. 
 
 After visiting these honoured graves, I had the pleasure of 
 dining with three grandchildren of Paul and Barbara Heck. 
 The eldest of these, Jacob Heck, a vigorous old man of eighty, 
 was baptized by Losee, the first Methodist missionary in 
 Canada. A kind-souled and intelligent granddaughter of Bar- 
 bara Heck evidently appreciated the honours paid her sainted 
 ancestry. She brought out a large tin box containing many 
 interesting souvenirs of her grandparents. Among these were 
 a silver spoon with the monogram 
 
 P. B. 
 H., 
 
 stout leather-bound volumes of Wesley's sermons, dated 1770; 
 Wesley's journal, dated 1743; General Haldimand's "discharge" 
 
OLD HECK HOUSE. 
 
 2iU3 
 
 of Paul Heck from the volunteer troops, etc. But of special 
 interest was the old German black-letter Bible, bearing the 
 following clear-written inscriptif>n: "Paul Heck, sein buch,ihm 
 gegeben darin zu lerrun die Neiderreiche sprache. Amen." 
 The printed music of the Psalter at the end of the book was 
 like that described by Longfellow in Priscilla's psalm-book : 
 
 "Rough-hewn angular notes, like atones in the wall of a churcliyard, 
 Darkened and overhung by the running vine of the verses." 
 
 This, it is almost certain, is the very Bible which Barbara Heck 
 held in her hands when she died. Dr. Abel Stevens thus 
 dscribes the scene : " Her death was befitting her life ; her old 
 German Bible, the guide of her life in Ireland, her resource 
 during the falling away of her people in New York, her in- 
 separable companion in all her wanderings in the wilderness 
 of Northern New York and Canada, was her oracle and com- 
 fort to the last. She was found sitting in her chair dead, with 
 the well-used and endeared volume open on her lap. And thus 
 passed away this devoted, obscure, unpretentious woman, who 
 so faithfully, yet unconsciously, laid the foundations of one of 
 the greatest ecclesiastical structures of modem ages, and whose 
 name shall shine with ever-increasing brightness as long as the 
 sun and moon endure." 
 
 Many descendants of the Embury and Heck families occupy 
 prominent positions in the Methodist Church in Canada, and 
 many more have died happy in the Lord. Philip Embury's 
 great-great-grandson, John Torrance, jun., Esq., has long filled 
 the honourable and responsible po.sition of treasurer and 
 trustee-steward of three of the largest Methodist churches of 
 Montreal. 
 
 Just opposite the elegant home of Mr. George Heck, whose 
 hospitalities I enjoyed, is the old Heck house, a large, old- 
 fashioned structure dating from near the beginning of the 
 century. It is built in the quaint Norman style common in 
 French Canada, and is flanked by a stately avenue of vener- 
 able Lombard poplars. Its massive walls, three feet thick, are 
 like those of a fortress, and the deep casements of the windows 
 are like its embrasures. The huge stone-flagged kitchen fire- 
 
2G4 
 
 A NOBLE MONUMENT. 
 
 place is as large as half a dozen in these degenerate days, and 
 at one side is an opening into an oven of generous dimensions, 
 which makes a swelling apse on the outside of the wall. In 
 the grand old parlour the panelling of the huge and stately 
 mantelpiece is in the elaborate style of the last century. From 
 the windows a magnificent view of the noble St. Lawrence and 
 of the American shore meets the sight, as it must with little 
 change have met that of Barbara Heck one hundred years ago. 
 Is not the memory of this sainted woman a hallowed link be- 
 tween the kindred Methodisms of the United States and 
 Canada, of both of which she was, under the blessing of God, 
 the foundress? Her sepulchre is with us to this day, but 
 almost on the boundary line, as if in death as in life she belonged 
 to each country. 
 
 The Methodists of the United States have worthily honoured 
 the name of Barbara Heck by the erection of a memorial 
 building in connection with the Garrett Biblical Institute at 
 Evanston, 111., to be known forever as Heck Hall — " a home 
 for the sons of the prophets, the Philip Emburys of the coming 
 century, while pursuing their sacred studies." "Barbara Heck," 
 writes Dr. C. H. Fowler, in commemorating this event, " put 
 her brave soul against the rugged possibilities of the future, 
 and throbbed into existence American Methodism. The leaven 
 of her grace has leavened a continent. The seed of her piety 
 has grown into a tree so immense that a whole flock of com- 
 monwealths come and lodge in the branches thereof, and its 
 mellow fruits drop into a million homes. To have planted 
 American Methodism ; to have watered it with holy tears ; to 
 have watched and nourished it with the tender, sleepless love 
 of a mother, and pious devotion of a saint ; to have called out 
 the first minister, convened the first congregation, met the first 
 class, and planned the first Methodist Church edifice, and to 
 have secured its completion, is to have merited a monument as 
 enduring as American institutions, and in the order of provi- 
 dence it has received a monument which the years dannot 
 crumble, as enduring as the Church of God. The life-work of 
 Barbara Heck finds its counterpart in the living energies of the 
 Church she founded." 
 
A TRIBUTE IN VERSE. 
 
 265 
 
 As I knelt in family prayer with the descendants of this 
 godly woman, with the old German Bible which had nourished 
 her earnest piety in my hands, I felt myself brouj,'ht nearer tho 
 springs of Methodism on the continent ; and as I made a night 
 railway journey to my distant home, the following retiections 
 shaped themselves into verse : 
 
 AT BARBARA HECK'S GRAVE. 
 
 I stood beside the lonoly grave where sleep 
 
 The nshes of Dame Barbara Heck, whoso hand 
 Planted the vital sued wherefroin this land 
 
 Hath ripened far and wide, from steep to deep, 
 
 The golden harvest which the angels reap, 
 
 And garner home the sheaves to heaven's strand. 
 From out this lowly grave there doth expand 
 
 A sacred vision and we dare not weep. 
 
 Millions of hearts throughout the continent! 
 Arise and call thee blessed of the Lord, 
 
 His handmaiden on holiest mission sent — 
 To teach with holy life His Holy Word. 
 
 rain of God, descend in showers of grace. 
 Refresh with dews divine each thirsty place. 
 
 BARBARA HECK's GERMAN BIBLE. 
 
 1 held within my hand the timo-worn book 
 
 Wherein the brave-souled woman oft had read 
 
 The oracles divine, and inly fed 
 Her soul with thoughts of God, and took 
 Deep draughts of heavenly wisdom, and forsook 
 
 All lesser learning for what (iod had said ; 
 
 And by His guiding luind was gently led 
 Into the land of rest for which we look. 
 Within her hand she held this book when came 
 
 The sudden call to join the white-robed throng. 
 Her name shall live on earth in endless fame, 
 
 Her high-souletl faith bo tlioujo of endless song, 
 O book divine, that fed that lofty faith, 
 Enbrave, like hers, our souls in hour of death. 
 
 tsmm'!''^ 
 
266 
 
 DOWN THE R A FIDS. 
 
 THE RAPIDS O? THE ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 The rapids begin about a hundred miles above Montreal, and 
 occur at intervals till we reach that city. The actual descent is 
 two hundred and thirty-four feet, which is overcome in return- 
 ing by forty-one miles of canal, and twenty seven locks. Down 
 this declivity the waters of live great lakes hurl themselves in 
 their effort to reach the ocean. 
 
 As we approach the rapids, the current becomes every moment 
 swifter and stronger, as if gathering up its energies and accu- 
 mulating momentum for its headlong rush down the rocks, like 
 a strong-limbed Roman girding for the race. Onward the river 
 
 Descending Lachine Rafids. 
 
 rolls in its majestic strength, oversweeping all opposing obstacles, 
 yet with not a ripple on its surface to betray its terrible velocity 
 — by its very swiftness rendered smooth as glass. With still 
 accelerated speed it sweeps onward, deep and atronij, heedless of 
 the sunny isles that implore it to remain — like a stern, uncon- 
 querable will, scorning all the seductions of sense in the earnest 
 race of life. As we glide on, we see the circling eddy indicating 
 the hidden opposition to that restless endeavour. Now the calm 
 surface becomes broken into foam, betraying, as it were, — 
 
 •• The speechless wrath that rises and subsides 
 In the white lips and tremor of the ft.ce." 
 
THE LONG SAULT. 
 
 267 
 
 We are now in the Long Sault. The gallant steamer plunges 
 down the steep. The spray leaps right across the bows. Now 
 she lifts her head above the waves, and like a strong swimmer 
 struggling with the stream — like CsBsar in the Tiber, dashing 
 the spray from out his eyes — she hurls them aside, bravely 
 breasting their might, strenuously wrestling with their wrath. 
 The mad waves race beside us like a pack of hungry, ravening 
 
 Baft in thb Rapids. 
 
 wolves, "like a herd of frantic tK-a-nionsters yoUing for their 
 prey, in.satiabl<-, implacable." 
 
 Are we pa.st ? Have we escapc^i ? Now we can breathe more 
 freely. We have come those nine miles in fifteen ininuteH, and 
 our gallant craft, like a tirud swimmer exhausted l>y the buffet- 
 ing of the waves, wearied! v strugules on. It is with a sense of 
 relief that we glide out into the calm v/aters below. 
 
 The sensation of perceptibly mailing down hUl is one of the 
 strangest conceivable. The feeling is that of sinking, .sinking', 
 
 
 
268 
 
 LACHINE RAPIDS. 
 
 down, down, somewhat akin to that in some hideous nightmare, 
 when we seem to be falling, falling, helplessly, helplessly, adown 
 infinite abysses of yelling, roaring waters. But after the first 
 strange terror is past, the feeling is one of the most exultant 
 imaginable. It is like riding some mettlesome, high-spirited 
 horse. A keen sympathy with the vessel is established, and all 
 sense of danger is forgotten in the inspiring excitement. 
 
 The channel, in some places narrow and intricate, is marked 
 out by fioating buoys. See, there is one struggling with the 
 stream, like a strong swimmer in his agony. Now it is borne 
 
 down by the restless 
 current, and now with 
 a desperate effort it 
 rises above the angry 
 waves with a hopeless, 
 appealing look, and an 
 apparent gesture of en- 
 treaty that, at a little 
 distance, seems quite 
 human. 
 
 Of the remaining 
 rapids, the Cascades 
 are the more beautiful, 
 but the Lachine Rap- 
 ids, immediately above 
 Montreal, are the more 
 grand and terrible, be- 
 cause the more dangerous. In the channel, hidden rocks are 
 more numerous. Before we enter the rapids, the Indian pilot, 
 Baptiste, boards the steamer. He takes his place at the 
 wheel, seconded by three other stalwart men. You can see 
 by his compressed lips and contracted brow that he feels 
 the responsibility of his position. Upon his skill depend the 
 lives of all on board. But his eagle eye quails not, his grim, 
 imperturV)able features blanch not with fear. His cool com- 
 posure rt-assures us. A breathless silence prevails. With a 
 swift, wild sweep and terrible energy, the remorseless river 
 bears us directly towards a low and rocky island. Nearer, 
 nearer we approach, Baptiste! Baptiste ! do you mean to dash 
 
 Running the Rapids. 
 
THE RAPIDS IN VERSE. 
 
 269 
 
 
 US on that cruel crag ? We almost involuntarily hold our breath 
 and close our eyes and listen for the crash. 
 
 " Hard-a-port ! " The chains rattle, and with a disdainful 
 sweep we swing around ; the trees almost brush the deck, and 
 we flout the threatened danger in the face. 
 
 But new perils appear. See those half-sunken rocks lying in 
 wait, like grisly, gaunt sea-monstei's ready to spring upon their 
 prey ? We seem to be in the same dilemma as Bunyan's pil- 
 grim, when between gia its Pope and Pagan. One or other of 
 them will surely destroy us. How shall we avoid this yawning 
 Scylla and yet escape thot ravening Chary bdis ? 
 
 Well steered, Baptiste ! We almost grazed the rock in pass- 
 ing : Hark ! how these huge sea-monsters foam with rage and 
 growl with disappointment at our escape. Our noble pilot 
 guides the gallant vessel as a skilful horseman reins his pranc- 
 ing and curvetting steed. 
 
 Out Canadian poet, Sangster, thus describes these glorious 
 rapix^ A the St. Lawrence : 
 
 The merry isles have floated idly past ; 
 And suddenly the waters boil and leap, 
 On either side the foamy spraj is cast, 
 Hoarse Genii through the shouting rapid sweep, 
 And pilot us unharmed adown the hissing steep. 
 
 The startled (ialloppes shout as we draw nigh. 
 The Sault, delighted, hails our reckless bark, 
 The graceful Cedars murmur joyously, 
 The vexed Cascades threaten our little ark, 
 That sweeps, love-freighted, to its distant mark. 
 Again the troubled deep heaps surge on surge. 
 And howling billows sweep the waters dark, 
 Stunning the ear with their stentoiiau <lirge, 
 That loudens as they strike the rocks resisting ver|,-e. 
 
 And we have passed the terrible Lachine, 
 Have felt a fearless tremor thrill the soul. 
 As the huge waves upreared their crests of green, 
 Holding our feathery bark in their control. 
 As a strong eagb' holds an oriole. 
 The hvvAii grows dizzy with the whirl and hiss 
 Of the fast-crowding billows, as they mil. 
 Like struggling demmis, to the vexed abyss, 
 Lashing the tortured crags with wild, demoniac bliss. 
 
 I '. 
 
270 MONTREAL ONCE MORE. 
 
 Mont Royale rises proudly on the view, 
 A royal mount, indeed, with verdure crowned, 
 Bedecked with regal dwellings, not a few, 
 Which here and there adorn the mighty mound. 
 St. Helens next, a fair, enchanted ground, 
 A stately isle in glowing foliage dressed, 
 Laved by the dark St. Lawrence all around, 
 Giving a grace to its enamoured breast. 
 As ])loasing to the eye as H<jchelaga's crest. 
 
 Behold before us, striding across the stream, like some huge 
 centipede — like some enormously exaggerated hundred-footed 
 caterpillar — the wondrous bridge which weds the long-divorced 
 banks of the St. Lawrence. Beneath it we swiftly glide, and 
 skirting the massy docks of the Canadian Liverpool, and thread- 
 ing our devious way through the mazy forest of masts, we find 
 our berth under the protection of the Royal Mount, which gives 
 to this stately city its name. With what calm majesty it draws 
 its brown mantle of shadow around it as the day departs, and 
 prepares to outwatch the coming night, guarding faithfully 
 for evermore the city sleeping at its feet. 
 
 See how the purple St. Hilaire and the blue hills in the 
 remotiji distance wear upon their high, bald foreheads, the good- 
 night smile of the setting sun while the lower levels are flooded 
 with darkness — like a crown of gold upon the brow of some 
 iEthiop king. 
 
 Behold how the twin towers of the lofty " Church of our 
 Lady" lift them.selves above the city — a symbol <• that relig- 
 ious system which dominates the land. And look where the 
 twinkling lamps reveal the hucksters' stalls, huddling around 
 the " Church of Good Succour," like mendicants round the skirts 
 of a priest. Trade and commerce seek to jostle from her place 
 religion, rebuking ever their unrestful and corroding care. 
 Listen to the heart of iron beating in yon lofty tower :— 
 
 Now their weird, unearthly changes 
 Emg the beautiful wild chimeH, 
 Low at times and loud at times, 
 And mingling like a poet's rhymes. 
 Like the psalniB iu some old cluiatur, 
 When the nuns sing in the choir. 
 And the great bell tolls among them 
 Like the chanting of a friar. 
 
BAY OF QUINTE. 
 
 271 
 
 Proceeding westward from Kingston, one ought not to miss 
 the charming sail up the Bay of Quinte — one of the most de- 
 lightful excursions one can make. The route is completely 
 land-locked, so there is no danger of sea-sickness. The many 
 long and narrow indentations of the land on either side, present 
 water vistas of exquisite beauty, and the softly rounded and 
 richly-wooded hills, and cultivated upland slopes, present only 
 images of peace and plenty. One of the most lovely of these 
 inlets is the Bay of Picton. The town of Picton is one of 
 idyllic beauty. The drives to the mysteriously fed Lake of the 
 Mountain, and to the rolling sand dunes on the south shore, are 
 full of interest. 
 
 Other pleasant towns on arms of this Briarian bay are 
 Napanee, Deseronto, Shannonville, the beautiful city of Belle- 
 ville, the seat of Albert College, and Trenton. On the shores of 
 Lake Ontario are Brighton, Colborne, Grafton, Cobourg, a town 
 of four thousand, for fifty years the seat of a Methodist College 
 which, under the brilliant administration of Chancellor Nelles, 
 has sent forth thousands of graduates to mould the intellectual 
 life of the province \ Port Hope, with a population of six 
 thousand and admirable railway connections wich the interior ; 
 Newcastle, Bowmanville, Oshawa and Whitby, the two latter 
 with admirable Cv^Uegesfor the higher education of women; and 
 the city of Toronto. 
 
 
272 
 
 PARLIAMENT D U/LD/NGS. 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 o 
 a 
 o 
 H 
 
 5 P 
 
 I s 
 
 ■S H 
 
 ? 'f 
 
 t 2 
 
 i ^ 
 
 e 
 
Toronto of old. 
 
 273 
 
 TOIKJNTO, 
 
 The natno Toronto," says Mr. S. E. Dawson, "was oii<,rinally 
 applied to the whole district in the neirrhbourhood of iiake 
 
 «fr 
 
 Simcoe. Thus, on some old maps, Georgian Bay is Toronto 
 Bay, Lake .Sinicoo is Toronto Lake, and the Severn and Humbcr 
 18 
 
274 
 
 TORONTO'S FIRST GERM. 
 
 rivers are both called Toronto lliver, and the old writers used 
 the word in as wide an application. The town which Oov- 
 ernor Siincoe founded ho called York, and it was not utitil 
 1884, when the city was incorporated, that the musical Irotjuois 
 word Toronto* (siojnifyinj^ trees in the water) was adcjpted 
 and limited to this place. As early as 1740 it was reco^^'nized 
 n-s an important locality, for the Indians froiri the north used 
 to pass up the Severn, across Lake Simcoo, and make a porta;^e 
 to the H umber, wliich here falls into Lake Ontario. It was 
 
 Old Block uouse. 
 
 to cut off this trade from j^'oinj^; to (Jhouagen (Oswego) tliat the 
 French Imilt a fort and trading; post near th(i mouth of i lo 
 Humber, whi'ch they called Fort Rouilld This had been long 
 abandotKid when Simcoe founded the present city." 
 
 The Rev. Dr. Scadding, in his interesting account of "Toronto's 
 First Germ," says : — " J'iy a popular misuse of terms the word 
 'Toronto' catne to bo applied to the small trading-post or 'fort,' 
 established in 1741), on the north shore of Lake Ontario, not far 
 
 *Tho lonj< low Hpit of land forming tlio harbour, wlioii it was <l(!riHt'ly 
 woodod, wuiild natiiruU" Huj^goat this iiamu for the district oponod up by a 
 portatfo thus iduiititiud from tho lake. 
 
 (1 
 
 :■ 
 
FORT ROUIIJJL 
 
 275 
 
 I ^ 
 
 Iroin till) mouth of the 
 JImiihor. Tlic proper 
 and onieiixl Maiii(3 of 
 this erection was Fort 
 llouillo, HO called in 
 compliment to Antoin(! 
 Louis Rouilh', the Co- 
 lonial Minister of the 
 day. But tra<lers and 
 amreurH du hoin pre- 
 ferred to speak of 
 Fort liouille as 
 Fort Toronto, 
 because it 
 stood at the 
 landinL,'- 
 p 1 a c e 
 of the 
 south- 
 e ru 
 te r- 
 m inu s 
 of the trail 
 which con- 
 ducted up to the 
 well-known ' To- 
 on to,' the ])lace of 
 concourse, the ffriiat 
 Huron rendezvous 
 .sixty miles to the 
 north; and the popu- 
 lar phrase()lo;^fy ulti- 
 mately ])rcvaiied. 
 
 " Fort, Toronto was 
 nothin<f mon- than a 
 stockad(!d storehouse, 
 with (juarters for a 
 keeper nnd a few sol- 
 diers, ai'tt.'r the fashion 
 of a small Hudson's 
 
 
 i 
 
27G 
 
 " THE OLD FRENCH FORT." 
 
 Bay tr)ulin{,'-post. A larf,'e portion of tho site which, fifty 
 yoars ugo, usimI coininonly to be visited as that of the 'Old 
 
 Custom IIoiihk, Toronto. 
 
 French Fort,' is now fallen into the lake ; but depressions, 
 marking tlie situation of cellars and portions of some ancient 
 foundations connected with out-buildings are still discernible. 
 
MEMORIAL CAIRN, 
 
 '111 
 
 I 
 
 as also indications of tlio lino of tlio stockado on tlie nortli 
 .side. Formerly tlioro were conspicuous renuiins ui llii','!4e(l 
 iloorinj; and the UascMiient (jf cliinnieys. 
 
 "The site of the tnidin;,' eHtal)liHhMient which was thus 
 <leHtined to he tlie initial jrcrni of tlie present city of Toronto, 
 is now (inclosed within tlie hounds of the park apijertaininj; to 
 tlie Kxhihition jjuildinj^s of the city, overlookiri;,' the lake. 
 Here a cairn or mound, coinnieniorative of the fact, lias heen 
 erected hy the Corporation (IH7H). On its top rests a mussivc 
 
 Osaoouu Hall, ToKo^Tu. 
 
 granite boulder, bearinff the following,' inscription : ' This cairn 
 marks the exact site of Fort Rouille, commonly known as Fort 
 Toronto, an Indian Trading-post and Stockade, established 
 A.lJ. 174!), V)y order of the Government of Louis XV., in accord- 
 ance with the recommendations of the Count de la Calissoniere, 
 Administrator of New France 1747-1740. Erected by the 
 Corporation of the City of Toronto, AD. 1.^78.' The boulder 
 which bears the i iscription has been allowed to retain its 
 natural features. -t wan dredged up out of the navigable 
 channel which leadfi Uito ihe adjoinirjg harbour." 
 

 
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 7 
 
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 Sciences 
 
 Corporalion 
 
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 23 WIST MA;N STREf t 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S8& 
 
 (716)872-4503 
 

The Mktbopouxan Methodist Cucbcii, Tobonto. 
 
 . 
 
GOVERNOR SIMCOE. 
 
 279 
 
 In the year 1795, Governor Sinicoe removetJ from Newark 
 (Niagara), the tirst capital of Upper Canada, to York, which he 
 
 , 
 
 St. Jaues' Catuedral, Toronto. 
 
 had selected as the seat of government before a single house 
 was erected in the latter place. He lodged temporarily in a 
 canvas tent or pavilion, pitched on tho plateau overlooking the 
 
280 
 
 THE FOUNDER OF TORONTO. 
 
 western end of the bay. It is a matter of historic interest that 
 this tent had been originally constructed for the distinguished 
 navigator, Captain James Cook, and was by him used in his ex- 
 plorations. In 1797 the Provincial Legislature of Upper Canada 
 was opened in a wooden building near the river Don, whose 
 site is still commemorated by the name of Parliament Street. 
 Before this event, however, the founder of Toronto was trans- 
 
 8t. Albam's Catuedbal, Toeonto. 
 
 ferred to the government of San Domingo. He had employed 
 the King's Rangers to construct the great northern artery of 
 commerce, Yonge Street, leading from the city toward the lake 
 which bears his name, and had projected a comprehensive policy 
 for the establishment of a provincial university, and for the 
 development of the resources of the country. On his removal, 
 however, most of these wise schemes either fell through or were 
 indefinitely postponed. Land designed for settlement, especially 
 
INCORPORA TION. 
 
 281 
 
 ) 
 
 1 
 
 
 near the infant capital, was seized by speculators, and the 
 growth and prosperity of the town of York was thereby greatly 
 retarded. 
 
 During the disastrous war of 1812-14, York was twice cap- 
 tured by the Americans, and many of its public and private 
 buildings were destroyed by fire. After the war the town 
 experienced a revival of prosperity, and, as the seat of govern- 
 ment and the principal courts of law, became the centre of a 
 somewhat aristocratic society. The unfortunate political dis- 
 affection of the years 
 1837 and 1838 seriously 
 interfered with the 
 progress of the city of 
 Toronto, as it was now 
 called — it had become 
 incorporated and elected 
 its first mayor, the cele- 
 lirated William Lyon 
 Mackenzie, in 1834. 
 The principal evidence 
 oi those troublous times 
 was a blockhouse or two 
 like that in our cut on 
 page 274, long since de- 
 stroyed. 
 
 Within the lifetime of 
 men still living, Toronto 
 
 has grown from an unimportant hamlet to a noble and beautiful 
 city of one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. In commer- 
 cial enterprise, in stately architecture, and in admirable institu- 
 tions, it is surpassed by no city in the Dominion. Situated on 
 an excellent harbour, it has communication by water with all 
 the ports cf the great lakes and the St. Lawrence, and its 
 commercial prosperity is fostered by the rich agricultural 
 country by which it is surrounded, by several railroads and by 
 the great highways by which the remoter settlements are made 
 tributary to its growth. 
 
 Nothing gave a greater impulse to the material prosperity of 
 
 New Westers Methodist Chcrch. 
 
282 
 
 RAILWAY DEVELOPMENT. 
 
 Toronto than the construction of the railway system, by means 
 of which the back country became tributary to its markets and 
 manufactories. The first of these roads was the Northern 
 Railway, the first sod of which was turned in 1851, amid 
 imposing ceremonies, by Lady Elgin, the amiable consort of 
 one of the ablest Governors whom Canada ever possessed. In 
 course of time the Great Western and Grand Trunk Railways 
 were constructed, largely through the efforts of Sir Allan 
 
 Shebboubnb Street Metuodist Chuboh, Tobomtq. 
 
 McNabb and Sir Francis Hincks. The Midland ; Toronto, Grey 
 and Bruce; and the Ontario and Quebec Railways, now forming 
 part of the Canadian Pacific Railway system, were subsequently 
 constructed. However unprofitable some of these roads may 
 have been to their projectors, they have increased the value of 
 every acre of land and of every bushel of grain in the region 
 which they traverse, and, by the increased facilities of traffic 
 and travel which they furnish, have contributed in no small 
 degree to make Toronto the great commercial emporium of 
 the Province of Ontario. 
 
TORONTO'S CIVIC ARCHITECTURE. 
 
 283 
 
 The recent rapid commercial development of the city of 
 Toronto may be seen in the construction of large blocks of 
 wholesale stores, consequent upon the growth of the railway 
 .system of the province and the extension of trade with the 
 interior. To accommodate the increasing business of the city, the 
 large and handsome new Custom House, which would challenge 
 admiration in any capital in Europe, was erected. It is adorned 
 by artistically executed medallion busts, in high relief, of dis- 
 tinguished navigators, and the internal decoration is exceed- 
 ingly costly and ornate. 
 
 To grant the requisite facilities for increasing passenger 
 traffic the Grand Trunk Railway Company built their capacious 
 and elegant Union Station, which is the handsomest and most 
 
 Exhibition Buildinus, Toronto, 
 
 commodious structure of the sort in the Dominion. Increased 
 postal facilities have also been furnished by the new Post Office 
 building and by the more frequent mail service and free letter 
 delivery. 
 
 Osgoode Hall, of which we give an engraving, commemo- 
 rates by its name the first Chief Justice, and one of the ablest 
 jurists of Upper Canada. The building has undergone remark- 
 able vicissitudes of fortune, having been at one time employed 
 as barracks for soldiers, — and the sharp challenge of the sentry 
 and the loud word of command of the drill sergeant were 
 heard in the precincts where now learned barristers plead and 
 begowned judges dispense justice. The building, however, 
 has undergone such changes that its quondam military occu- 
 pants would no longer recognize it. The magnificent library 
 
284 
 
 PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS. 
 
 of the Law Society, and the central court, surrounded by a 
 peristyle of beautifully carved Caen stone, with its exquisite 
 pavement of tessellated tile, are among the architectural ckef% 
 iHoixivre of the province. 
 
 The most important public building in the city, and one of 
 the most important in the Dominion, or indeed on the continent, 
 is the new Parliament House in Queen's Park. The building 
 when completed will be five hundred and twelve feet long and 
 two hundred and seventy-six feet deep, and the main tower 
 
 HOBTICDLTUBAL GARDENS AMD PaTILION, TuBOMTO. 
 
 will reach a height of one hundred and ninety feet. The 
 Legislative Chamber will be a magnificent room one hundred 
 and twelve by eighty feet and fifty-two feet high. It is being 
 constructed almost entirely of Credit Valley stone and of brick, 
 of which thirteen million will be employed. The cost of the 
 building will be about $1,300,000. 
 
 Few cities of its size will compare with Toronto for the 
 number and beauty of its churches. Of some of the more 
 conspicuous of these we give illustrations. The Metropolitan 
 Church is a monument of the residence in Canada of the Rev. 
 
w 
 
 TOKOXrO CHURCHES. 
 
 2«5 
 
 W. Morley Punshon, LL.D., to whose faith in the future of 
 Methodism in this country, and zeal for its prosperity, it 
 largely owes its existence. It is hoth externally and internally 
 one of the most elegant and commo<lions Methodist churches in 
 the world, and is unequalled by any of which we are aware in 
 the spacious and beautiful grounds by which it is surrounded. 
 
 St. James' Cathedral, may, in like manner, be said to be a 
 memorial of the energy and religious zeal of the Rev. Dr. 
 Strachan, the first and most indefatigable bishop whom the 
 
 QOVERNMKNT HOUHE, ToRONTU, 
 
 Anglican Church in Canada has ever possessed. It is one of 
 the finest specimens of perpendicular Gothic architecture in 
 America. The .spire, rising to the height of 306 feet, is grace- 
 fully proportioned, and the most lofty on the continent, exceed- 
 ing that of Trinity Church, New York, by twenty-one feet. 
 The tower contains a chime of bells and the celebrated clock 
 manufactured by Benson, of London, and which obtained the 
 highest prize at the Vieni^a Exhibition. 
 
 In the interior, the apse, surrounded by fine traceried win- 
 dows, is finely decorated in carved oak, and contains a monu- 
 
 
S86 
 
 THE INDUSTRIAL EX I I Hi IT ION. 
 
 ment to Bishop Strachan. The tower and spire can Vje ascended; 
 and in addition to seeing the works of the clock, a wide range 
 of view can be had of the city, the harbour, and surrounding 
 country. The Anglican Cathedral of St. Alban will, when 
 completed, be a noble architectural structure, and an ornament 
 to the city. 
 
 The Jarvis Street Baptist Church is an imposing structure of 
 Queenston and Ohio stone, with columns of New Brunswick 
 granite and roof of Canadian slates in bands of varied colours. 
 The interior is amphitheatral in form, and presents very 
 superior facilities for hearing, seeing, and speaking — in which 
 respect many churches are very defective. Some of the new 
 churches of the city are very elegant, as the Western Methodist 
 Church on Bloor Street, see page 281, and the Sherbourno 
 Street Methodist Church shown on page 282. 
 
 The full-page engraving will give an excellent idea of the 
 main building of the Industrial Exhibition. This is a structure 
 of glass and iron, and of cruciform shape. It is two hundred and 
 ninety-two feet in length from east to west, and two hundred and 
 thirteen feet in depth. The w^idth of the east and west wings 
 is sixty-four feet. The coup d'(vU of the interior during the 
 progress of the Exhibition, as seen from the second or third 
 gallery, is very imposing. The four radiating arms of the 
 huge cross are crowded with industrial exhibits of endless 
 variety, beau*y and utility. Gay bannerets flutter in the 
 bright sunlight streaming through the transparent walls; a 
 highly ornate fountain in the centre throws up its silver column 
 in the air, and a moving multitude swarm in and out of the 
 vast structure " like bees about their straw-built citadel." 
 
 Outside of the main building the scene is no less animated. 
 Machinery Hall, with its whirr of shafts and belts and revolv- 
 ing wheels, with its complex machinery all at work with tire- 
 less sinews and nimble fingers, and apparently almost conscious 
 intelligence, is a centre of much attraction. The Agricul- 
 tural and Horticultural Halls are overflowing with the beau- 
 tiful gifts of Providence to our favoured country. The exhibit 
 of live stock is immense, and of unsurpassed excellence of 
 quality. These industrial exhibitions are a great national 
 
 
 r 
 
 / 
 

 s 
 
 
T 
 
THE INDUSTRIAL EXHIBITION. 
 
 287 
 
 education of the people, and ^ivo new conceptions of the 
 material wealth of our country and of the mechanical ingenuity 
 and busincsH energy of our countrymen. The most reiimrkalile 
 feature of the Exhibition is the provision made for its recep- 
 tion — the numerous, elegant and exten-sive buildings, nearly ail 
 of which arose upon a barren plain in the short space of only 
 three months The success of this Exhibition is admitted, by 
 those cognizant of the facts, to be due, more than to the efforts 
 of any other man, to the indefatigiiMe energy of ex-Aldcrman 
 Withrow, President of the Exhibition Association, who has 
 
 Toronto Umivkbsity. 
 
 been ably seconded by efficient co-labourers. The small cut 
 gives a good idea of the grouping of buildings on this busy spot. 
 Similar local Exhibitions are also held at Hamilton, Brantford, 
 London, Guelph, Kingston, Ottawa, and many other cities and 
 towns. 
 
 The cut on page 284, gi\ ?s a very good view of the Pavilion 
 in the Horticultural Gardens. There are few pleasanter spots 
 in which to saunter over the velvet lawn on a summer after- 
 noon, the bright sunlight glinting through the trees, and the 
 graceful fountain in the foreground flashing with showers of 
 liquid diamonds. In the background is seen the spire of the 
 handsome Jarvis Street Bciptist (Jhurch. 
 
■ppi 
 
 888 
 
 GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 
 
 Our cut on page 285 gives a good idea of the provision made 
 by the Province for the comfortable lodging of the representa- 
 tive of our gracious Sovereign. The broad greensward, the 
 terraced slopes, the spacious conservatories and elegant Govern- 
 ment House, furnish facilities for those hospitalities which our 
 Lieutenant-Governors so gracefully dispense. The castellated- 
 
 , At High Park, Toronto. 
 
 looking tower to the right is that of St. Andrew's Presbyterian 
 Church, of which the accomplished Rev. D. J. Macdonnell, B.D., 
 is the popular pastor. 
 
 The University Buildings in the Queen's Park are the noblest 
 specimens of Norman architecture on the continent. The 
 massive tower, the quaint arcades, the open-roofed Convocation 
 
 ^^■^iJi^iUiSi^ii&v'-^-AX 
 
THE EDUCATIONAL CENTRE. 
 
 S89 
 
 Hall, with their varied details of bracket and corbel, in which 
 grotesque faces grin and leer, like the creations of a distem- 
 pered monkish dream — an odd piece of medisevalism in the 
 broad glare of the nineteenth century — will well repay a careful 
 study. Trinity, Wycliffe, Knox, St. Michael's, McMaster Hall, 
 and several medical colleges make Toronto, in a very conspicuous 
 degree, the educational centre of the Province. 
 
 The suburbs of Toronto present many delightful " bits " that 
 would delight the pencil of an artist. One of the most delight- 
 ful of these is High Park, generously donated to the city by 
 J. G. Howard, Esq. 
 
 The following fine sonnet by Mr. W. D. Lighthall, of Mont- 
 real, expresses the genial sentiment that we believe animates 
 the people of that sister city towards Toronto: 
 
 Queen city ! Sister-queen of ours, 
 
 On thy clear brow shine bright the crown ! 
 Broad be thy sway and fair thy towers, 
 
 And, honoured, keep thou evil down. 
 Sublimely thy straightforward eyes 
 
 Are looking to the great ideals : 
 Lead on, lead on ! be free, be wise ; 
 
 And surge thou o'er with noble zeals. 
 Contest with us the race of Good : 
 
 Grow mightier, if thou mayest, than we : 
 In sisterhood and brotherhood 
 
 There is no room for jealousy. 
 Extend thy quays and halls and bowers, 
 And long be sister-queen of ours I 
 
 '^es: 
 
 19 
 
I 
 
 290 
 
 NIAGARA. 
 
 THE NIAGARA FRONTIER. 
 
 Few parts of the Dominion of Canada present sucK a remark- 
 able combination of picturesque scenery and stirring historic 
 associations as the Niagara frontier, especially that part reach- 
 ing from the great cataract to the mouth of the river. It 
 unites the charm of soft pastoral and sylvan landscape, and the 
 wildest and grandest sublimity. 
 
 Probably the greatest scenic attraction of the continent of 
 
 OOVEBNOR SiHCOE. 
 
 America is the Falls of Niagara. These are reached in a few 
 hours from Toronto by steamer to Niagara and by rail to the 
 Falls. The enlightened policy of the Canadian and American 
 Governments, adopted at the suggestion of Lord DufFerin, of 
 preserving forever as a park for the people the environment of 
 the grandest waterfall in the world, and the many other 
 attractions of the frontier, will always make it a favourite 
 tourist resort. We begin our survey with the historic old town 
 of Niagara, and abridge from a recent number of Harper's 
 Monthly, some Interesting facts concerning the ancient borough. 
 
 
HISTORIC MEMORIES. 
 
 291 
 
 On entering the river we pass on the left old Fort Niagara, 
 on the very site of the original fort planted by La Salle in 1678, 
 and haunted with historic memories. To the right rises the 
 dismantled bastion of Fort Missisauga, erected since the war of 
 1812. A mile higher up are the ruins of Fort George, which 
 bore the brunt of the war of 1812, and was blown up by Col. 
 Vincent, to prevent it falling into the hands of the American 
 invaders. The quiet town, embowered amid its orchards and 
 gardens, presents a picture of idyllic repose. Far different was 
 the stormy scene when, with a solitary exception, every one 
 of its four hundred houses were given to the flames at an hour's 
 notice by the American army. 
 
 Niagara is the Plymouth Rock of Upper Canada, and was 
 once its proud capital city. Variously known in the past as 
 Loyal Village, Butlersbury, Nassau, and Newark, it had a daily 
 paper as early as 1792, and wad a military post of distinction 
 before the present century; its real beginnings, however, being 
 contemporaneous with the Revolutionary War. Here, within 
 two short hours' sail or ride of the populous and busy cities of 
 Toronto ard Buffalo, we come upon a spot of intensest quiet, in 
 the shadow of whose ivy -mantled church tower sleep trusted 
 servants of the Georges, and their Indian allies. The place has 
 been overtaken by none of that unpicburesque commercial 
 prosperity which further up the frontier threatens to destroy all 
 the natural beauties of the river banks. 
 
 The Welland Canal and the Grand Trunk and Grea£ Western 
 railway systems diverted from Niagara the great part of the 
 carrying trade, and with it that growth and activity which 
 have signalized the neighbouring cities of Canada. " Refuse 
 the Welland Canal entrance to your town," said the commis- 
 sioners, "and the grass will grow in your streets." The predic- 
 tion has been realized. St. Catharines is a flourishing neigh- 
 bour, while Niagara, with a harbour in which the navy of 
 England might ride, se'^ _ .. ov»<e» crop the turf up to the door- 
 steps of the brass-knockered, wide-windowed houses, while the 
 classic goose roams through the town. When the red-coated 
 militia of the Dominion are encamped on the breezy common, 
 the unwonted bustle and stir in the quiet old town make it 
 
 ?r.aii>»;iwfft? ww:-' ftj trnffmrn^mm^i i m m^' 
 
292 
 
 FIRST PARLIAMENT. 
 
 the more easy to summon a picture of that remote past when 
 Niagara, then Newark, figured as a gay frontier military post. 
 
 Here Governor Simcoe opened the first Upper Canadian Legis- 
 lature; and later, from here General Brock planned the defence 
 of Upper Canada. While the cities of Western New York, 
 which have now far eclipsed it, were rude log settlements, at 
 Newark some little attempt was made at decorum and society. 
 
 Near Fort George, less than a century ago, stood the first 
 Parliament House of Upper Canada. Here, seventy years 
 before President Lincoln's Emancipation Proclamation, the first 
 United Empire Loyalist Parliament, like the embattled farmers 
 of Concord, " fired a shot heard round the world." For one of 
 the first measures of the exiled patricians was to pass an act 
 forbidding slavery. Few readers know that at Newark, now 
 Niagara, Ontario, was enacted that law by which Canada be- 
 came not only the first country in the world to abolish slavery, 
 but, as such, a safe refuge for the fugitive slaves from the 
 Southern States. 
 
 After much hesitation and perplexity. Governor Simcoe de- 
 cided to fix the seat of government at Newark, where a small 
 frame house served him for the executive residence as well as 
 the Parliament building. Traces of the fish-ponds which sur- 
 rounded it may still be detected in the green depressions of the 
 river-bank where it stood. A landed gentleman and a member 
 of the British House of Commons, Governor Simcoe voluntarily 
 relinquished the luxuries of his beautiful English home and 
 estates to bury himself in the wilderness, and use his executive 
 powers for the service of his country in establishing the govern- 
 ment of Canada on broad and secure foundations. We read of 
 the first Governor of Upper Canada that he lived in a noble 
 and hospitable manner. Mrs. Simcoe not only performed the 
 duties of wife and mother, but acted as her husband's secretary. 
 She was a gifted draughtswoman, and her maps and plans 
 served Governor Simcoe in laying out the towns of the new 
 colony. 
 
 With the sweet chimes from its belfry-tower pealing out 
 across the village park, every visitor, when first he comes in 
 sight of St. Mark's gray buttresses, must echo Dean Stanley's 
 
57: MARICS. 
 
 293 
 
 involuntary exclamation, " Why, this is old England right over 
 Again!" Surrounded by a churchyard full of . moss-grown 
 tombstones, and shaded by drooping elms, the air sweet in 
 springtime with the scent of wild flowers, St. Mark's is the 
 very picture of an English country church. Entering the dim, 
 quiet interior, the legend " Fear God! honour the king !" carved 
 
 St. Mark's Chuf'^h, Niagara. 
 
 on a mural tablet, greets the eye, to renew the impression of 
 the Christian patriotism which animated the early settlers of 
 the town. This stone is to the memory of Colonel John Butler, 
 of Butler's Rangers, His Majesty's Commissioner for Indian 
 Affairs, and of Wyoming massacre memory. He was the founder 
 of St. Mark's Church. The parish register contains this rcoord 
 of his death: "1796. May 15.— Col. John Butler, of the 
 Bangers. (My patron.) Robert Addison, min'r of Niagara." 
 
294 
 
 HISTORIC TABLETS. 
 
 It is a gratifying fact that more recent investigation has 
 proved much of the obloquy cast upon Colonel Butler by earlier 
 writers of American history to have been due to the heated 
 partisan prejudice of that time. 
 
 Few churches in America can boast so many quaint and 
 peculiar tablets as St. Mark's. One is to the memory of an 
 officer who "served in most of the glorious actions of the 
 Peninsular war." A gallery supported by slender pillars runs 
 around the church, and the high, square box pews are curtained 
 
 Intebior or St. MABs'a 
 
 in red. The neutral tints of the stained glass in the chancel 
 windows, harmonizing well with the faded quaintness of the 
 gray interior, are a relief to the eye. Established in 1792, the 
 parish has had but three rectors since the beginning. The 
 church itself, the oldest but one in Upper Canada, was built in 
 1802. 
 
 The names in the earlier pages of the register represent the 
 different nationalities which made up the motley population of 
 a stirring frontier town — English, Irish, Scotch, French, Indians 
 and Negroes, with a generous sprinkling of Tories from the 
 Hudson and Mohawk. 
 
THE ORPHANAGE. 
 
 295 
 
 On the outskirts of the town stands a large, square, yellow 
 brick house, mantled in ivy and clematis. Its broad and 
 spacious porch looks upon an old-fashioned garden and orchard. 
 Approaching it by the country road that leads off from the 
 town, past detached villas, the green common, and over an old 
 stone bridge, one sees shy, curious little faces peering out 
 through the fence pickets. For it is here, under the name of 
 
 Miss Rye's Orphanage. 
 
 " Our Western Home," that Miss Rye, one of the most distin- 
 guished of England's women philanthropists, has established 
 her famous orphanage. Since 1869, when the house, formerly 
 the old Niagara county jail, was opened, over 2,000 London 
 waifs, ranging in age from two to sixteen, have found a home 
 under this roof. 
 
 Old Fort Missisauga, iis walls 
 
 " Thick as a feudal keep, with loop-holes slashed," 
 
S96 
 
 FORT MISSISAUGA. 
 
 lies to the north of the town of Niagara, on a bluff above the 
 lake, and in the nooks and crannies of its rained arches innu- 
 merable pigeons nest. Built from the ruins of the ancient town, 
 it serves to keep in mind traditions of that bleak December 
 night when the hapless inhabitants of the little settlement 
 were turned into the streets to brave the ice and snow of 
 a Canadian winter. To England, then absorbed in a deadly 
 struggle with Napoleon, this frontier war of 1812 was as 
 nothing in comparison with the mightier interest at stake, but 
 of vital moment to the pioneers fleeing from the whirlwind of 
 fire and sword which, beginning with Newark, swept the whole 
 frontier, to culminate in the burning of Buffalo, then the largest 
 settlement on the Niagara border. 
 
 FOBT MlSSiaAtTGA, NIAGARA. 
 
 UNITED EMPIRE LOYALISTS. 
 
 Tourists stroll frequently to the grassy ramparts of old Fort 
 George, whose irregular outlines are still to be traced upon the 
 open plains which now surround it. Here landed, in 1783-84, 
 ten thousand United Empire Loyalists, who, to keep inviolate 
 their oaths of allegiance to the King, quitted their freeholds 
 and positions of trust and honour in the States to begin life 
 anew in the unbroken wilds of Upper Canada. Little has been 
 written of the sufferings and privations endured by " the 
 makers " of Upper Canada. Students and specialists who have 
 investigated the story of a flight equalled only by that of the 
 Huguenots after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, have 
 been led to admire the spirit of unselfish patriotism which 
 
 ] 
 
U. E. LOYALISTS. 
 
 m 
 
 y 
 
 led over one hundred thousand fugitives to self-exile. The 
 United Empire Loyalists, it has been well said, " bleeding with 
 the wounds of seven years of war, left ungathered the crops of 
 their rich farms on the Mohawk and in New Jersey, and, 
 stripped of every earthly* possession, braved the terrors of the 
 unbroken wilderness from the Mohawk to Lake Ontario." In- 
 habited to-day by the descendants of these pioneers, the old- 
 fashioned loyalty and conservatism of the Niagara district is 
 the more conspicuous by contrast with neighboring republican- 
 ism over the river. 
 
 Perhaps as appropriately here as elsewhere may a further 
 reference bo made to those Pilgrim Fathers of Canada — a body 
 of as noble and devoted patriots as the world has ever seen — an 
 ancestry of whom their descendants may well feel proud. 
 
 It is somewhat remarkable that one of the most eloquent 
 vindications of the United Empire Loyalists of Canada is from 
 the pen of, not only a citizen of the United States, but of a Brevet 
 Major-General of the State of New York. General DePeyster 
 has good reason for his enthusiasm for the U. E. Loyalists. 
 Both of his grandfathers held Royal commissions. Three great 
 uncles were shot on the battlefield. Many others gallantly 
 served the King, and for their loyalty to the Empire died in 
 exile. Though raised to high honour in his native city and 
 State, he still sympathizes strongly with the old flag and vindi- 
 cates eloquently the fidelity and valour of the old Loyalists. 
 
 The amplest historical treatment of the U. E. Loyalists is 
 that by the venerable Dr. Ryerson, himself fen illustrious scion 
 of the goodly stock. Never before have they received such 
 adequate vindication and such well-founded eulogy. He who 
 would comprehend in its fulness the heroic story of the Pilgrim 
 Fathers and founders of Upper Canada, must carefully read 
 Dr. Ryerson's admirable history of the United Empire Loyalists. 
 
 It will suffice here to briefly indicate some of the most 
 important facts connected with the exile of these heroic people 
 — an exile without parallel in history — unless it is the expulsion 
 of the Moriscoes from Spain or of the Huguenots from France 
 by Louis XIV. The condition of the American colonists who, 
 during the Revolutionary War, remained faithful to the mother 
 
298 
 
 LOYALIST REFUGEES, 
 
 country, was one of extreme hardship. They were exposed to 
 suspicion and insult, and sometimes to wanton outrage and 
 spoliation. They were denounced by the local Assemblies as 
 traitors. Many of them were men of wealth, education, talent 
 and professional ability. But they found their property con- 
 iiscated, their families ostracised, and often their lives menaced. 
 The fate of these patriotic men excited the sympathy of the 
 mother country. 
 
 Their zeal for the unity of the Empire won for them the 
 name of United Empire Loyalists, or, more briefly, U. E. 
 Loyalists. The British Government made liberal provision for 
 their domiciliation in the seaboard provinces and Canada. The 
 close of the war was followed by an exodus of these faithful 
 men and their families, who, from their loyalty to their King 
 and the institutions of their fatherland, abandoned their homes 
 and property, often large estates, to encounter the discomforts 
 of new settlements, or the perils of the pathless wilderness. 
 These exiles for conscience' sake came chiefly from Isew 
 England and the State of New York, but a considerable 
 number came from the Middle and Southern States of the 
 Union. 
 
 Several thousand settled near Halifax, and on the Bay of 
 Fundy. They were conveyed in transport ships, and billeted 
 in churches and private houses till provision could be made for 
 their settlement on grants of land. Many of them arrived in 
 wretched plight, and had to be clothed and ikA. by public or 
 private charity. A still larger number settled near the St. 
 John and Kennebecasis rivers, in what is now the Province of 
 New Brunswick, of whose fertile lands they had received 
 glowing accounts from agents sent to explore the country. 
 
 What is now the Province of Ontario, at the close of the 
 Revolutionary War was almost a wilderness. The entire 
 European population is said to have been less than two thou- 
 sand souls. These dwelt chiefly in the vicinity of the fortified 
 posts on the St. Lawrence, the Niagara and the St Clair rivers. 
 The population of Lower Canada was, at this time, about one 
 hundred and twenty thousand. It was proposed by the Home 
 Government to create, as a refuge for the Loyalist refugees, a 
 
SETTLEMENT OF UPPER CANADA. 
 
 299 
 
 new colony to tho wc8t of the older settlement!) on the St. 
 Lawrence, it bein;; deemed best to keep the French and En^^linh 
 populations separate. For this purpose, surveys were made 
 along the upper portion of the river, around the beautiful Bay . 
 of Quinte, on the northern shores of Lake Ontario, and on the 
 Niagara and St. Clair rivers. 
 
 To each U. E. Loyalist was assigned a free grant of two 
 hundred acres of land, as also to each child, even to those born 
 after immigration, on their coming of age. The Government, 
 moreover, assisted with food, clothing and implements, those 
 loyal exiles who had lost all on their expatriation. Each 
 settler received an axe, hoe and spade ; a plough and one cow 
 were allotted to every two families, and a whip-saw and cro.ss- 
 cut saw to each group of four households. Sets of tools, 
 portable corn-mills, with .steel plates like coifee-mills, and other 
 conveniences and necessaries of life were also distributed among 
 those pioneers of civilization in Upper Canada. 
 
 Many disbanded soldiers and militia, and half-pay officers of 
 English and German regiments, took up land ; and liberal land- 
 grants were made to immigrants from Great Britain. These 
 early settlers were for the most part poor, and for the tirst 
 three years the Government granted rations of food to the 
 loyal refugees and soldiers. During the year 1784, it is esti- 
 mated that ten thousand persons were located in Upper Canada. 
 In course of time not a few immigrants arrived from the 
 United States. The wilderness soon began to give place to 
 smiling farms, thriving settlements, and waving fields of grain, 
 and zealous missionaries threaded the forest in order to admin- 
 ister to the scattered settlers the rites of religion. 
 
 The sons of the U. E. Loyalists should be worthy of those 
 patriotic sires. They met defeat, but never knew dishonour. 
 They were the heroes of a lost cause. It was theirs to sing the 
 sublime " Hymn of the Conquered," and yet to plant in the 
 virgin soil of this Northern land the germs of a new nation 
 which shall naintain, let us hope for all time, British laws, 
 British institutions and British liberty. 
 
 Mr. William Kirby, of Niagara, whose stirring poem on the 
 U. E. Loyalists we quote, writes thus of these brave men : 
 
300 
 
 A NOBLE RECORD. 
 
 " The exile of the Loyalists from the United States (Judge 
 Jones says that one hundred thousand left the port of New 
 York alone) forms one of the grand unwritten chapters of 
 American history, and one of the noblest. Americans will yet 
 be more proud of those high-principled exiled Loyalists than of 
 those who banished them and ungenerously seized their proper- 
 ties, and confiscated all they had. It will be like writing with 
 electric light a new, true and grander chapter of American 
 history than has yet been written. American historians and 
 compilers have almost always completely ignored or misrepre- 
 sented the character, numbers and position of the Loyalists in 
 the Revolution. They will learn that the oldest, purest, and 
 best breed of the Anglo-American stock is no longer in the 
 United States, but in Canada, where it was transplanted a 
 century ago, before the United States became the common 
 recipient of the overflowings of every European nation. That 
 old, genuine breed is here now in the fullest vigour of national 
 life, and as true to the British Crown and Imperial connection 
 as their loyal fathers were a century ago. When you touch 
 the loyal United Empire sentiment in the breasts of Canadians 
 you make their hearts vibrate in its inmost chords." 
 
 Mr. Kirby writes with no less fervour in verse than in prose 
 of these gallant men. The following stirring lines are taken 
 from his pathetic poem, " The Hungry Year," which describes 
 a touching episode in the history of the early settlers, reduced 
 to the utmost straits by drought : 
 
 The war was over. Seven red years of blood 
 
 Had scourged the land from mountain-top to sea ; 
 
 (So long it took to rend the mighty fame 
 
 Of England's empire in the western world). 
 
 Rebellion won at last ; and they who loved 
 
 The cause that had been lost, and kept their faith 
 
 To England's crown, and scorned an alien name, 
 
 Passed into exile ; leaving all behind 
 
 Except their honour, and the conscious pride 
 
 Of duty done to country and to King. 
 
 Broad lands, ancestral homes, the gathered wealth 
 
 Of patient toil and self-denying years 
 
 Were confiscate and lost ; for they had been 
 
LOYALIST HEROISM. 
 
 301 
 
 The anlt and savour of tho land ; trained up 
 In honour, loyalty, and fear of God — 
 The wine upon the lees, decanted when 
 They left their native soil, with sword-holts drawn 
 The tighter ; while the women only, wept 
 At thought (if old flresides no longer theirs ; 
 At household treasures reft, and all tho land 
 Upset, and ruled by rebels to tho King. 
 
 Not drooping like poor fugitives, they came 
 In exodus to our Canadian wilds ; 
 But full of heart and hope, with heads erect ' 
 And fearless eye<i, victorious in defeat. — 
 With thousand toils they forced their devious way 
 Through the great wilderness of silent woods 
 That gloomed o'er lake and stream ; till higlier rose 
 The northern star above the broad domain 
 Of half a continent, still theirs to hold, 
 Defend, and keep forever as their own ; 
 Their own and England's, to the end of time. 
 The virgin forest, carpeted with leaves 
 Of many autumns fallen, crisp and sere. 
 Put on their woodland state ; while overhead 
 Green seas of foliage roared a welcome home 
 To the proud exiles, who for Empire fought, 
 And kept, though losing much, this northern land 
 A refuge and defence for all who love 
 The broader freedom of a commonwealth, 
 Which wears upon its head a kingly crown. 
 
 Our great Canadian woods of mighty trees, 
 Proud oaks and pines, that grew for centuries- 
 King's gifts upon the exiles were bestowed. 
 Ten thousand homes were planted ; and each one. 
 With axe, and fire, and mutual help, made war 
 Against the wilderness, and smote it down. 
 Into the open glades, unlit before. 
 Since forests grew or rivers ran, there leaped 
 The sun's bright rayb, creative heat and light, 
 Waking to life the buried seeds that slrjpt 
 Since Time's beginning, in the earth's dark womb. 
 
 .... The world goes rushing by 
 The ancient landmarks of a nobler time, — 
 When men bore deep the imprint of the law 
 Of duty, truth, and loyalty unstained. 
 
302 U. E. LOYALISTS. 
 
 Amid the quaking of a continent, 
 
 Tom by the passions of an evil time, 
 
 They counted neither cost nor danger, spumed 
 
 Defections, treasons, spoils ; but feared God, 
 
 Nor shamed of their allegiance to the King. 
 
 To keep the empire one in unity 
 
 And brotherhood of its imperial race, — 
 
 For that they nobly fou i^ht and bravely lost, 
 
 Where losing was to win a liigher fame 1 
 
 In building up our northern land to be 
 
 A vast Dominion stretched from sea to sea,— 
 
 A land of labour, but of sure reward, — 
 
 A land of corn to feed the world withal, — 
 
 A land of life's rich treasures, plenty, peace ; 
 
 Content and freedom, both to speak and do, 
 
 A land of men to rule with sober law 
 
 This part of Britain's empire, next to tlie heart, 
 
 Loyal as were their fathers and as free ! 
 
 ■ 
 
 Another accomplished writer of the ancient borough of 
 
 Niagara, Miss Janet Carnochan, thus apostrophises those heroic 
 
 exiles : „ „ , , 
 
 Tell me then who can, 
 
 As chronicles of brave and good ye scan, 
 
 A higher, nobler, more unselfish deed, 
 
 And more deserving laurel crown and meed ; 
 
 To leave broad fields, and fruitful orchards fair, 
 
 Or happy, smiling, prosperous homes, and dare 
 
 To face wild beasts and still more savage men. 
 
 And venture far beyond the white man's ken — 
 
 To leave the graves of those they loved so well. 
 
 More loved than these perhaps, the sweet church bell, 
 
 And all for what ? for an idea ? No — 
 
 Ten thousand times we say again — not so ; 
 
 The right to say aloud — God save the King, 
 
 To British laws, and British homes to cling. 
 
 For love of what they deemed good government. 
 
 Nor less than these demands will them content ; 
 
 To face reproach, abuse, nor weakly yield. 
 
 Even when the contest with their blood they sealed, 
 
 When specious pleading made the worse appear 
 
 The better reason, oft through force or fear. 
 
 These are the things that test anvi try men's souls. 
 
 And show what leading principle controls. 
 
 And not the men alone thus did and dared, 
 
 But women fair and young, and old and silvery-haired. 
 
 ^■i:*. >J>m 
 
iH 
 
 i 
 
 FOUNDERS OF EMPIRE. 
 
 If, then, they claim the sifting of th' Old Land, 
 
 To form the Pilgrim Fathera' chosen band, 
 
 We claim the second sifting more severe, 
 
 To make the finest of the wheat appear. 
 
 Through sore distress, alternate loss and gain, 
 
 The unequal contest nobly they maintain 
 
 To keep their scil a sacred heritage. 
 
 Those heroes all unknown to history's page. 
 
 A baptism of fire and tears and blood. 
 
 Our country gained and stemmed the swelling flood. 
 
 Again was seen as has been seen before. 
 
 On many a bloody field in days of yore. 
 
 Not always is the battle to the strong, 
 
 Nor to the swift must aye the race belong ; 
 
 For to the arms though weak of those who fight, 
 
 For hearth and home, a freeman's sacred right, 
 
 There comes through all that dark and dreadful hour, 
 
 An energy before unknown, a sacred power. 
 
 The invading foe grows weak and melts away 
 
 As snow, before the sunny smiles of May. 
 
 While Puritan and Pilgrim loud they [.-raise. 
 
 And Loyalists are lauded in our days. 
 
 Shall not the Pioneers who crossed the foam. 
 
 And left th' Old World to hew them out a heme. 
 
 Where all was new, and strange, and wild, and rude. 
 
 Who struggled on, with courage unsubdued. 
 
 Where hardihood and honest toil combine 
 
 Shall wo forget a generous wreath to twine ? 
 
 We boast of freedom real — to Black and Red, 
 
 Nor foot of serf our sacred soil may tread. 
 
 That long 'ere Britain's dusky slaves were free, 
 
 While Wilberforce was battling generously. 
 
 Ere Southern neighbours dreamt the slave a man, 
 
 And not a chattel, under bonds and ban : 
 
 Our legislators 'neath fair Newark's trees, 
 
 Declared our slaves were free or» land or seas. 
 
 Our treaties with the red man in his need, 
 
 Have all been straitly kept in word and deed. 
 
 And still they show with pardonable pride, 
 
 The silver service by Queen Anne supplied. 
 
 The medals handed down from sire to son 
 
 Which tell of treaties made or battles won. 
 
 For years our statesmen nobly sought to gain 
 The rights their sons enjoy and now maintain. 
 Nor England nor Columbia's power so great 
 
 303 
 
wm 
 
 i 
 
 804 (/. £. LOYALISTS. 
 
 Freedom to give to all in Church and State, 
 A hard and bitter battle long they fought, 
 Nor was our sires' unselfish toil for nought. 
 
 Space will not permit the complete quotation of a noble poem 
 on the U. E. Loyalists by the Rev. LeRoy Hooker. A few lines 
 only can be given : 
 
 Dear were the homes where they were bom; 
 
 Where slept their honoured dead ; 
 And rich and wide 
 On every side 
 
 The fruitful acres spread 
 But dearer to their faithful hearts. 
 
 Than home or gold or lands, 
 Were Britain's laws, and Britain's crown, 
 And Britain's flag of long renown. 
 
 And grip of British hands. 
 
 With high resolve they looked their last 
 On home and native land ; 
 And sore they wept 
 O'er those that slept 
 In honoured gravts that must be kept 
 By grace of stranger's hand. 
 
 They looked their last and got them out 
 Into the wilderness. 
 The stem old wilderness ! 
 All dark and rude 
 And unsubdued ; 
 The savage wilderness ! 
 Where wild beasts howled 
 And Indian" prowled • 
 The lonely wilderness ! 
 Where social joys must be forgot. 
 And budding childhood grow untaught ; 
 Where hopeless hunger might assail 
 Should autumn's promised fruitage fail ; 
 Where sickness, unrestrained by skill. 
 Might slny theii" dear ones at its will ; 
 Where they must Jay 
 Their dead away 
 Without the man of God to say 
 The sad sweet words, how dear to men, 
 Of resurrection hope. But then 
 'Twas British wilderness ! 
 
20 
 
 HEROIC EXILES. 
 
 Where they might sing, 
 
 "Godsav^the King!" 
 And live protected by his laws, 
 And loyally uphold his c^uHe. 
 
 'Twas welcome wilderness ! 
 Though dark and rude 
 And unsubdued ; 
 Though wild beksts howled 
 And Indians prowled ; 
 For there their sturdy hands, 
 By hated treason undefiled. 
 Might win from the Canadian wild, 
 A home on British lands. 
 
 These be thy heroes, Canada ! 
 
 These men of proof, whose test 
 Was in the fevered pulse of strife 
 When foeman thrusts at foemaa's life ; 
 
 And in that stern behest 
 When right must toil for scanty bread 
 While wrong on sumptuous fare is fed, 
 
 And men must choose between ; 
 When right must shelter 'ueath the skies 
 While wrong in lordly mansion lies, 
 
 And men must choose between ; 
 When right is cursed and crucified 
 While wrong is cheered and glorified. 
 
 And men must choose between. 
 
 Stern was the test, 
 
 And soroly pressed, 
 That proved their blood best of the best. 
 And when for Canada you pray. 
 
 Implore kind heaven 
 
 That, like a leaven. 
 The hero-blood which then was given 
 May quicken in her veins alway ; — 
 That from those worthy sires may spring, 
 
 In number as tlie stars, 
 Strong-hearted sons, whose glorying 
 
 Shall be in Bight, 
 
 Though recreant Might 
 Be strong against her in the fight, 
 
 And many be her scars 
 So, like the aun, her honoured name 
 Shall shine to latest years the same. 
 
 305 
 
f^i^mmimimmmmmim 
 
 3tf6 
 
 FORT NIAGARA. 
 
 We return novf to a description of this historic frontier At 
 the mouth of the river on the American side is Fort Niagara, 
 whose ramparts command a sweeping view of Lake Ontario. 
 The history of Fjrt Niagara, knit up as it is with all 
 America's paat, from before the time when the French king, 
 dallying with his favourites, thought this region valuable only 
 for furs, down to the imprisonment of Morgan, in 1828, in the 
 low magazine near the river bank, yet remains to be written. 
 During a long period it was a little city in itself, and the most 
 important point west of Albany or south of Montreal. In the 
 
 >3f ^ V'. ^« 
 
 Ti 
 
 Besidknce of W. H. Howland, Niaoaba Assembly. 
 
 centre of the enclosure stood a cross eighteen feet high, with 
 the inscription : " Regnat, vincit, imperat, Ghristtts," and over 
 the chapel was a large ancient dial to mark the course of the 
 sun. La Salle traced the outlines of the fortress, from whose 
 lofty flag-staff now floats the emblem of the United States, but 
 which, alternately owned by French and English, witnessed 
 some of the most hard-fought engagements in their strife for 
 mastery in the New World. 
 
 South of Niagara is an oakwood, " Paradise Grove," long a 
 favorite picnic resort ; upon an open heath stand, " outlawed, 
 lonely, and apart," a picturesque clump of thorn-trees. One of 
 
,. 
 
 SPINA CHRISTL 
 
 307 
 
 
 i 
 
 the best known writers of the Dominion, and author of that 
 powerful historical romance The Ghien d'Or, Mr. William Kirby, 
 a resident of Niagara, traces the planting of these trees, brought 
 originally from Palestine to Avigiion — descendants, it is averred 
 of the true Spina Ghristi — as far back as to the period of the 
 French occupation of Fort Niagara. In one of his series of 
 Canadian idylls the poet beautifully relates how under the 
 oldest of these French thorns, " in the grave made wide enough 
 for two," sleep a once gay cavalier of Roussillon, and a fair 
 
 
 
 "Sunny Bcnk"— Summer Cottage, Niagara Assembly. 
 
 <3ame of Quebec, whose bright eyes caused him to forget his 
 chatelaine in Avignon. 
 
 " O ! fair in summer time it is, Niagara plain to see 
 Half belted round with oaken woods and green as grass can be ! 
 Its levels broad in sunshine lie, with flowerets gemmed and set, 
 With daisy stars, and red as Mars 
 The tiny sanguinet ; 
 
 The trefoil with its drops of gold— white clover heads, and yet 
 The sweet grass, commonest of all God's goodnesses, we get ! 
 The dent de lion's downy globes a puff will blow away, 
 Which children pluck to try good luck, 
 Or tell the time of day. 
 
I '! 
 
 . 
 
 ! 
 
 308 NIAGARA ASSEMBLY. 
 
 " Count Bois le Grand sought out a spot of loveliness, was full 
 Of sandwort's silvered leaf and stem — with down of fairy wool, 
 Hard by the sheltering grove of oak he set the holy thorn 
 Where still it grows, and ever shows 
 How sharp the crown of scorn 
 
 Christ wore for man, reminding him what pain for sin was borne. 
 And warning him he must repent before his sheaf is shorn, 
 When comes the reaper Death, and his last hour of life is scored. 
 Of all bereft, and only left 
 The mercy of the Lord. " 
 
 Lansdownb Villa, Niaoaba Assembly. 
 
 A new enterprise of a somewhat comprehensive character 
 gives promise of restoring to the old town a large degree of 
 its former prosperity. A Canadian branch of the famous 
 Chautauqua Assembly has established here a local habitation. 
 A hundred acres of land on the lake shore, a little west of the 
 town, has been purchased and laid out as a beautiful summer 
 resort, under religious and educational auspices. A first-class 
 hotc^ and a number of elegant cottages have been erected, and 
 an i nphitheatre capable of accommodating an audience of 
 4,0('0 has been constructed. This place is designed to be a 
 rallying place for Canadian Chautauquans, and to furnish an 
 annual programme of high-class lectures and artistic and musical 
 
 > 
 
 , 
 
 i 
 
A CANADIAN CHAUTAUQUA. 
 
 309 
 
 entertainments by some of the ablest talent on the continent. 
 Special prominence is given to Sunday-school, I^ormal class 
 work, and Chautauqua work. Bishop Vincent, the originator 
 of the now world-wide Chautauqua movement, successfully 
 inaugurated this Canadian Assembly in 1887. An able corps 
 of workers makes the summer Assembly an occasion of great 
 pleasure and mental profit. 
 
 The design is to furnish a pleasant summer home, surrounded 
 by religious safeguards and under highly educative and moral 
 
 View from Qpeenston Heights. 
 
 er 
 
 of 
 us 
 n. 
 le 
 er 
 ss 
 id 
 of 
 a 
 m 
 al 
 
 influences. The success which has already attended the enter- 
 prise is an indication that it meets a want that is felt by a large 
 portion of the community. 
 
 This Assembly enjoys unusual advantages of access, being 
 situated on the through line of travel with the fine steel 
 steamers Cibola and Chicora daily from Toronto, and with 
 direct connections for all parts of the east and west by the 
 great Michigan Central Railway system. 
 
 The sail up the broad and rapid river, seven miles to Queens- 
 ton or Lewiston, is one of surpassing beauty, and the whole 
 resfion is rife with historic memories. To the rijjht rises the 
 
I 
 
 Brock's Monument. 
 The tnMll monument in the foreground »how» the «pot where Brock fell. 
 
 L 
 
QUEENS TON HEIGHTS. 
 
 311 
 
 I 
 
 steep escarpment of Queenston Heights, in storming which, on 
 the fatal night of October, 1812, fell the gallant Brock. A 
 noble monument perpetuates his memory. From its base is 
 obtained a magurficent 'iew of the winding river — the fertile 
 plain and the broad, brae Ontario in the distance. 
 
 Every step of the way between Niagara and Queenston— so 
 named in honour of Queen Charlotte— is historic ground. But 
 
 a few short hours, after leading 
 
 his hastily summoned militia up 
 
 Queenston Heights, with a cry, 
 
 "Push on, York Volunteers!" Sir 
 
 Isaac Brock again 
 
 passed over this road, 
 
 when his body, with 
 
 Below the 
 
 Cantilever Bkidoe. 
 
 mmK'^ 
 
 ^^^^M^^ 
 
 \mfmm^^^^ 
 
 that of his brave aide-de 
 
 camp, was brought back, the 
 
 enemy's minute-guns all along the opposite river-bank firing 
 
 a salute of respect. 
 
 From the summit of Brock's Monument — a Roman column 
 exceeded in height only by that Sir Christopher Wren erected 
 in London to commemorate the great fire — is obtained a grand 
 view of the river. Here we see not only the Whirlpool and 
 the spray of the Cataract, but all the near towns, with a 
 distant glimpse of the historic field of Lundy's Lane. Broad 
 smiling farms, and peach and apple orchards, stretch away 
 
312 
 
 THE CANTlLEVEli BRIDGE. 
 
 into the distance, and adorn every headland on either side. 
 The fall-tided river rolls on in might and majesty, and pours its 
 flood into the blue unsalted sea, Ontario, which, studded with 
 many a sail, forms the long hori^son. Few lands on earth can 
 exhibit a scene more fertile or more fair, or one associated with 
 grander memories of patriotism and valour. 
 
 Four miles farther up, the river is spanned by two of the 
 most wonderful bridges in the world — the light and airy Sus- 
 pension Bridge, erected in 1855, and the new Cantilever Bridge, 
 
 Cantilever Bridge — Building Pier. 
 
 erected in 1883 by the Michigan Central Railway. The latter is 
 of sufficient interest to call for a somewhat detailed description. 
 The location of the bridge, a short distance below the • Falls 
 of Niagara, precludes the possibility of any supports in the 
 centre of the stream, which at this point is five hundred feet 
 from shore to shore at the water's edge. The design is what is 
 known as the cantilever bridge, the principle of which is that 
 of a trussed beam, supported at or near its centre, with the 
 arms extended each way and one end anchored or counter- 
 weighted to provide for unequal loading. It was in practice 
 
 
' 
 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 I 
 
 (4 
 
 a 
 
 ti 
 is 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
314 
 
 THE CANTILEVER BRIDGE. 
 
 entirely novel, no other bridge having then been completed 
 upon this principle. 
 
 Each end is made up of a section, entirely of steel, extending 
 from the shore nearly half way over the chasm. Each section 
 is supported near its centre by a strong steel tower, from which 
 extend two lever arms, one reaching the rocky bluffs, the other 
 extending over the river 175 feet beyond the towers. The 
 towers on either side rise from the water's edge; between them 
 a clear span of 49.5 feet over the river, the longest double-track 
 
 («w- 
 
 ■H^W-f 
 
 / , J 
 
 un II I It [ ^i r i w n 
 
 ' V^,.-.> ^ ^ 
 
 S.^ii^^lS^J' 
 
 ..^M6rf^«''' 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
 BuiLDiNQ Cantilevek Buiugk, VVestern Pier. 
 
 truss-span in the world. The ends of the cantilevers reach 
 on each side 395 feet from the abutments, leaving a ;^iip of 
 120 feet filled by an ordinary truss bridge hung from the ends 
 of the cantilevers. There are no guys for this purpose, as in a 
 suspension bridge, but the structure is complete within itself. 
 The total length of the bridge is 910 feet. It has a double 
 track, and is strong enough to carry upon each track at the 
 same time the heaviest freight train, extending the entire 
 length of the bridge. From the tower foundations up the 
 
MODE OF CONSTRUCTION. 
 
 315 
 
 whole bridge is .steel, every inch of which was subjected to the 
 most rigid tests from the time it left the ore to the time it 
 entered the Htructure. 
 
 The structure has very much the appearance of an ordinary 
 truss bridge, but in view of the conditions and surroundings, 
 very different in the manner of its erection. The difficult 
 portion of the work was to span the 495 feet across and 239 
 feet above a roaring river whose force no earthly power can 
 stay. No temporary structure could survive a moment, and 
 
 BuiLOiNa Cantilever Bridge, Eastern Pier. 
 
 here the skill of the engineer came in to control the powers of 
 nature. The design of the cantilever is such that after the 
 shore arm was completed and anchored the river arm was built 
 out, one panel or section at a time, by means of great travelling 
 derricks, and self-sustaining as it progressed. After one panel 
 of twenty-five feet was built and had its bracing adjusted the 
 derrick was moved forward and another panel erected. Thus 
 the work progressed, section by section, until the ends of the 
 cantilever were reached, when a truss bridge was swung across 
 
316 
 
 THE CANTILEVER BRIDGE. 
 
 the gap of 120 feet, resting on the ends of the cantilever arms, 
 thus forming the connecting link. In less than seven months, 
 December 1st, 1883, the bridge was completed. It was rigor- 
 ously tested on the 20th of December, and under the tremendous 
 weight of eighteen locomotives and twenty-four heavily loaded 
 gravel cars, showed a temporary deflection of but six inches, 
 proving to be a grand and perfect success. 
 
 Bridges on the cantilever principle are now becoming quite 
 
 i 
 
 t 
 
 Cantilever Bru.^je — Constrcctino Overhang. 
 
 common. Another fine example in Canada is that over the 
 Kivcr St. John at its mouth, and another is that over the Fraser 
 River, on the Canadian Pacitic Railway. The most notable in 
 the world for length and strength is that over the River Forth, 
 in Scotland. 
 
 Proceeding southward from these remarkable bridges we soon 
 reach the stupendous Falls, whose deep eternal roar is heard 
 long before the ever-rising column of spray comes into view. 
 
ANTHONY TROLLOPE ON THE FALLS. 
 
 \n 
 
 I 
 
 THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. 
 
 "Of all the sights on this earth of ours which tourists travel 
 to see," says Anthony TroUope, "I am inclined to give the palm 
 to the Falls of Niagara. 1 know no other one thing so beau- 
 tiful, so glorious, and so powerful. At Niagara there is the fall 
 of waters alone. But that fall is more graceful than Giotto's 
 
 Below the Amekicak Falls. 
 
 tower, more noble than the Apollo. The pe^ks of the Alps 
 are not so astounding in their solitude. The valleys of the 
 Blue Mountains in Jamaica are less green ; and the full tide of 
 trade round the Bank of England is not so inexorably' powerful. 
 "All the waters of the huge northern inland seas run over that 
 breach in the rocky bottom of the stream ; and thence it comes 
 that the flow is unceasing in its grandeur, and that no eye can 
 perceive a difference in the weight, or sound, or violence of the 
 
318 
 
 THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. 
 
 r 
 
 i 
 
 fall, whether it be visited in the drought of autumn, amidst the 
 storms of winter, or after the melting of the upper worlds of 
 ice in the days of the early summer. At Niagara the waters 
 never fail. There it thunders over its ledge in a volume that 
 
 • 
 
 NiAOABA Falls by Moonlight. 
 
 never ceases, and is never diminished — as it has dore from time 
 previous to the life of man, and as it will do till tens of thou- 
 sands of years shall see the rocky bed of the river worn away, 
 back to the upper lake. 
 
 "Up above the Falls, for more than a mile, the waters leap 
 
 ^::» 
 
i 
 
 THEIR EXHAUSTLESS SUPPLY. 
 
 319 
 
 and burst over rapids, as though conscious of the destiny that 
 awaits them. The waters, though so broken in their descent, 
 are dtliciously green. This colour as seen early in the morning, 
 or just as the sun has set, \u so bright as to give to the place 
 one of its chief charms. This will be best seen from the 
 further end of Goat Island. 
 
 " But we will go at once on to the glory, and the thunder, 
 and the majesty, and the wrath of the upper fall of waters. 
 We are still, let the reader remember, on Goat Island. From 
 hence, across to the Canadian side, the cataract continues itself 
 
 in OiK. i- iC'.lated line. But the line is very far from being 
 direct or >;■:!•!• "^tht. After stretching for some little way from 
 the shore, to a point in the river which is reached by a wooden 
 bridge, at the end of which stood a tower upoi> the rock — after 
 stretching to this, the line of the ledge bends irwarf's against 
 the flood — in, and in, and in, till one is led to think that the 
 depth of that horse-shoe is immeasurable. Go down to the end 
 of that wooden bridge, seat yourself on the rail, and there sit 
 tii- i.il the outer world is lost to you. There is no grander 
 sp^'i' -^lo'.t JSIiagara than this. The waters are absolutely 
 around you. You will see nothing but the water. You will 
 certainly hear nothing else; and the sound, I beg you to 
 
320 
 
 THE HORSE-SHOE. 
 
 remember, is not an ear-cracking, agonizing crash and clang of 
 noises, but is melodious, and soft withal, though loud as thunder; 
 it fills your ears, and, as it were, envelops you, but at the 
 same time you can speak to your neighbour without an effort. 
 But at this place, and in these moments, the less of speaking, I 
 should say the better. 
 
 "It is glorious to watch the waters in their first curve over the 
 
 rocks. They come 
 green as a bank of 
 emeralds, but with 
 'of ul flying colour, 
 . though conscious 
 that in one moment 
 more they would be 
 dashed into spray 
 and rise into air, 
 pale as driven snow. 
 Your eves rest full 
 upon the curve of 
 the waters. The 
 shape you are look- 
 ing at is that of a 
 horse-shoe, 
 but of one 
 miraculous- 
 deep from 
 toe to heel ; 
 this depth 
 becoming 
 greater as 
 you sit and 
 look at it. 
 That which 
 at first was only beautiful becomes gigantic and sublime, till 
 the mind is at a loss to find an epithet for its own use. 
 
 " And now we will cross the water. As we do so, let me say 
 that one of the great charms of Niagara consists in this, that, 
 over and above that one great object of wonder and beauty. 
 
 Fekry Landing, Canadian Side. 
 
 S 
 
fm 
 
 322 
 
 BENE AT// THE FALLS. 
 
 there is so much little loveliness; loveliness, especially of water, 
 I mean. Thsre are little rivulets running here and there over 
 little falls, with pendent boughs above them, and stones shining 
 under their shallow depths. As the visitor stands and looks 
 through the trees, the rapids glitter before him, and then hide 
 themselves behind islands. They glitter and sparkle in far 
 distances under the bright foliage till the remembrance is lost> 
 and one knows not which way they run." 
 
 Father Uennkfin's Sketch of Niaoaba Falls xs 1674. 
 
 BENEATH THE FALLS. 
 
 If any jaded sight-seer wishes to enjoy a new sensation, I 
 would advise him to make the descent into the " Cave of the 
 Winds " on the American side. It was one of the most exciting 
 adventures the present writer ever experienced. Having, duly 
 feed the attendant, one is shown into a dressing-room, where he 
 couipletely divests himself of his clothing, and assumes a flannel 
 bathing-suit. No oil-cloth or india-rubber covering will answer 
 here — one becomes as wet as a fish in his native home. One 
 
"CAVE OF THE WINDS." 
 
 323 
 
 puts his watch and mo!iey in a tin box, which he locks and 
 fastens the key to his girdle. A straw hat is tied firmly on the 
 head, and felt sandals on the feet, the latter to prevent slipping 
 on the rocks or wooden steps. 
 
 Now, accompanied by a sturdy guide, we go down a winding 
 stair, from whose loop-holes we catch glimpses of the cliff rising 
 higher and higher as we descend. We are soon at the foot of 
 the stairway, and follow a beaten path over the broken dehAs 
 which, during immemorial ages, has formed a rocky ledge at the 
 base of the cliff. We at length reach the grand portal of the 
 " Cave of the Winds." It is a mighty arch, nearly a hundred 
 
 NiAQAEA RiVEE, BELOW THE FaLLS, FROM THE CANADIAN SiDB. 
 
 and fifty feet high — one side formed of overhanging cliff, and 
 the other of the majestic sweep of the fall. The latter seems 
 like a solid wall of water many feet thick, glossy green at the 
 top, but so shattered and torn near the bottom that it is a snowy 
 v<rhite. Beneath this portal we pass. A long, steep stairway, 
 covered with a green confervoid growth, leads down into a dim 
 abyss of spray and deafening noise. Now the benefit of the 
 sandals is felt; without them we would assuredly slip and 
 fall. Firmly clinging to the arm of the guide, we go down, it 
 seems almost into the heart of the earth. Great fragments of 
 the seething cataract — not mere drops, but what seem to be solid 
 chunks of water, rent from the main body — are hurled down. 
 
324 
 
 BENEATH THE FALLS. 
 
 with catapult-like violence, upon our heads. The air is filled 
 with blinding spray. It drives into our eyes, our ears, and our 
 mouth, if we open it. A deep, thunderous roar shakes the solid 
 rock, and upward gusts of wind almost lift one from his feet. 
 A dim liirht strunfcfles through the translucent veil. All com- 
 munication is by pantomime — no voice could by any possibility 
 be heard — and often the guide has almost to carry his charge 
 through this seething abyss. 
 Pressing on, we cross galleries fastened to the face of the cliff. 
 
 The Hobse-Shoe Fall— from Below. 
 
 and bridges springing from rock to rock; and climbing over 
 huge boulders, gradually emerge again to the light of day. And 
 what a scene bursts on the view ! We have passed completely 
 behind the falling sheet — not the main fall, of course, but the 
 one between Goat and r ana Islands. We are right at the foot 
 of the cataract, enveloped in its skirt, as it were, and drenched 
 by its spray. Clambering out on the rocks, we can pass directly 
 in front of it. When the gusts of wind sweep the spray aside, 
 we get dazzling views of the whole height of the snowy fall, 
 poured, as it were, out of the deep blue sky above our head. 
 Only the glowing language of Ruskin can depict the scene. We 
 
RUSfCJN ON THE FALLS. 
 
 325 
 
 can " watch how the vault of water first bends unbroken in pure 
 
 polished velocity over the arching rocks at the brow of the 
 
 cataract, covering , 
 
 them with a dome of J.&i'^^^f^'^ 
 
 crystal twenty feet 
 
 thick — so swift that 
 
 its motion is unseen, 
 
 except when a foam 
 
 globe from above 
 
 darts over it like a 
 
 falling star; and 
 
 how, ever and anon, 
 
 a jet of spray leaps 
 
 hissing out of the 
 
 fall like a rocket, 
 
 bursting in the wind, 
 
 and driven away in 
 
 dust, filling the air 
 
 with light ; whilst 
 
 the shuddering iris 
 
 stoops in tremulous stillness over all, fading and flushing 
 
 alternately through the 
 choking spray and shat- 
 tered sunshine. 
 
 "Still do these waters 
 roll, and leap, and roar, 
 and tumble all day long; 
 still are rainbows span- 
 ning them a hundred 
 feet below. Still, when 
 the sun is on them, do 
 they shine and glow like 
 molten gold. Still, when 
 the day is gloomy, do 
 they fall like snow, or 
 seem to crumble away 
 like the front of a great 
 
 chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. But 
 
 Bridqb to Luna Island. 
 
 The Cataract above Ooat Island. 
 
 m 
 
326 
 
 RUS/C/N ON THE FALLS. 
 
 always does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes aown, 
 and always from the unfathomable grave arises that tremendous 
 ghost of spray and mist which is never laid, which has haunted 
 this place with the same dread solemnity since darkness brooded 
 on the daep, and that first flood before the deluge — Light — came 
 rushing on creation at the Word of Qod. 
 
 " Stable in its perpetual instability ; changeless in its ever- 
 lasting change; a thing to be 'pondered in the heart' like the 
 revelation to the meek Virgin of old : with no pride in the bril- 
 liant hues that are woven in its 
 
 ^^-':i.^^--'.^i.ii^i.^:-^,.:-^^/:i::;w^. eternal loom: with no haste in 
 
 the majestic roll of its waters : 
 with no weariness in its endless 
 psalm — it remains through the 
 eventful years an embodiment 
 of unconscious power, a liv- 
 ing inspiration of thought, and 
 poetry, and worship — a mag- 
 nificent apocalypse of God." 
 
 Unable to tear myself away, 
 I let the guide proceed with 
 the rest of the party, and lin- 
 gered for hours entranced with 
 the scene. I paid for my 
 enthusiasm, however, for I 
 became so stiff from prolonged 
 saturation in the water that I had to remain in bed all next day. 
 Scarcely inferior in interest to the falls are the rapids above, 
 as seen from Street's Mill, on the Canadian shore, or from the 
 bridge to Goat Island or the Three Sisters. The resistless sweep 
 of the current, racing like a maddened steed toward destruction, 
 affects one almost as if it were a living thing. This is still more 
 striking as we stand on the giddy verge where rose, like a lone 
 sentinel, the Terrapin Tower. For a moment the waters seem 
 to pause and shudder before they make the fatal plunge. 
 
 Unquestionably the grandest view is that of the Horse-shoe 
 Falls, either from the remains of Table Rock or from the 
 foot of the fall. Here the volume of water is greatest, and the 
 
 From Goat Island. 
 
DR. DEWART ON THE FALLS. 
 
 327 
 
 vast curve of the Horse-shoe makes the waters converge into 
 one seething abyss, from which ascends evermore the cloud of 
 spray and mist — like the visible spirit of the fall. 
 
 The following fine lines by Dr. Dewart describe not inade- 
 quately the deep emotions that thrill the soul in the presence of 
 this sublime vision : 
 
 " While standing on this rocky ledge, above 
 The vast abyss, which yawns beneath my feet, 
 In silent awe and rapture, face to face 
 With this bright vision of unearthly glory, 
 Whicli dwarfs all human pageantry and power, 
 This spot to me is Nature's holiest temple. 
 The sordid cares, the jarring strifes, and vain 
 Delights of earth are stilled. The hopes and joys 
 That gladden selfish hearts, seem nothing here. 
 
 •' The massy rocks that sternly tower aloft, 
 And stem the fury of the wrathful tide — 
 The impetuous leap of the resistless flood, 
 An avalanche of foaming, curbless rage — 
 The silent hills, God's tireless sentinels^ 
 The wild and wond'rous beauty of thy face. 
 Which foam and spray forever shroud, as if 
 Like thy Creator, God, thy glorious face 
 No mortal eye may see unveiled and live- 
 Are earthly signatures of power divine. 
 O ! what are grandest works of mortal art, 
 Column, or arch, or vast cathedral dome. 
 To these majestic footprints of our Godl 
 
 " Unique in majesty and radiant might, 
 Earth has no emblems to portray thy splendour. 
 Not loftiest lay of earth-born bard could sing 
 All that thy grandeur whispers to the heart 
 That feels thy power. No words of mortal lipa 
 Can fitly speak the wonder, reverence, joy — 
 The wild imaginings, thrilling and rare, 
 Which now, like spirits from some higher sphere, 
 For whom no earthly tongue has name or type. 
 Sweep through my soul in waves of surging thought. 
 My reason wrestles with a vague desire 
 To plunge into thy boiling foam, and blend 
 My being with thy wild sublimity. 
 
^^^^^ 
 
 328 
 
 J)R. DEIVART ON THE FALLS. 
 
 As thy majestic beauty Bubliinatet 
 My Boul, I am ennobled while 1 gaze- 
 Warm tears of pensive joy gush from my eyes, 
 And grateful praise and worship silent swell, 
 Unbidden, from my thrilled and ravished breast; 
 Henceforth this beauteous vision shall be mine— 
 Daguerreotyped forever on my heart. 
 Stupendous power ! thy thunder's solonm hymn 
 Whose tones rebuke the shallow unbeliefs 
 Of men, is still immutably the same. 
 Ages ere mortal eyes beheld thy glory 
 Thy waves made music for the listening stars, 
 And angels paused in wonder as they passed, 
 To gaze upon thy weird and awful beauty, 
 Amazed to see such grandeur this side heaven. 
 Thousands, who once have here enraptured stood, 
 Forgotten, lie in death's long pulseless sleep ; 
 And when each beating heart on earth is stilled. 
 Thy tide shall roll, unchanged by flight of years, 
 Bright with the beauty of eternal youth. 
 
 ** Thy face, half veiled in rainbows, mist and foam, 
 Awakens thoughts of all the beautiful 
 And ^rand of earth, which stand through time and change 
 As witnesses A God's omnipotence. 
 The misty mountain, stern in regal pride. 
 The birth-place of the avalanche of death — 
 The grand old forests, through whose solemn aisles 
 The wintry winds their mournful requiems chant— 
 The mighty rivers rushing to the sea — 
 The thunder's peal — the lightning's awful glare — 
 The deep, wide sea, whose melancholy dirge 
 From age to age yields melody divine — 
 The star-lit heavens, magnificent and vast. 
 Where suns and worlds in quenchless splendour blaze 
 All terrible and beauteous things create 
 Are linked in holy brotherhood with thee. 
 And speak in tones above the din of earth 
 Of Him unseen, whose word created all." 
 
 • 
 
 
WINTER ASPECTS. 
 
 320 
 
 NIAOAUA FALLS IN WINTER. 
 
 It was on a bright sunny day in January that I had my first 
 winter view of the Falls of Niagara. I had often seen them 
 before, gleaming like a sapphire in the emerald setting of the 
 spring, or relieved by the rich luxuriance of the leafy summer 
 tide. I had beheld their beauty crowned with the golden glory 
 of the autumn, each peak and crag and islet flaming like an 
 altar-pyre with the brilliant foliage of the trees, more beautiful 
 in death than in life, varicoloured as the iris that spanned the 
 falling flood. I had seen them flashing snowy white in the fervid 
 
 Thk American Fall— from the Canadian Side. 
 
 light of noon; glowing rosy red when the descending sun, like 
 the Hebrew, smote the waters and turned them into blood; 
 glancing; in silvery sheen in the moon's mild light, and gleaming 
 spectral and ghastly, like a sheeted ghost, in the moonless mid- 
 night. But, as seen with their winter bravery on, richly robed 
 with ermine, tiaraed with their crystal crown, and bediamonded 
 with millions of flashing gems, the view seemed the fairest and 
 most beautiful of all. 
 
 Niagara has as many varying moods and graces as a lovely 
 woman, and ever the aspect in which we see her seemeth be.st. 
 Hence, we always approach with new zest, and study her 
 
330 
 
 THE FALLS IN WINTER. 
 
 separate beauties with fresh enjoyment. She does not reveal 
 her true sublimity, nor impart the secret of her witchery at 
 once, but only on prolonged acquaintance. There is a majestic 
 reticence about nature in this theatre of her most wonderful 
 maaifeotiitions. There is, someti/ines, even a feeling of disap- 
 pointment at first sight. This is owing to the vast sweep of 
 the falls, over half a mile in breadth, which diminishes their 
 
 Thk American Fall. 
 
 apparent height. It *>s only when we have constructed a scale 
 of comparati^'ri admeasurement, and especially v.'hen we have 
 descended the cliff over which the mighty river hurls itself, 
 and, standing close to its foot, look up and see the hoary front 
 of the vast flood falling out of the very sky, as it seems, 
 
 " Poured from the hollow of God's hand," 
 that an adequate sense of its immensity bursts upon us. Then 
 
ICY CLIFFS. 
 
 331 
 
 its spell of power asserts itself, and takes possession of our souls. 
 Being shod with a pair of sharp iron " creepers" to prevent 
 slipping on the icy crags, I descended the successive flights of 
 steps in the face of the cliff, which lead down to the foot of the 
 Canadian Fall. These steps, constantly drenched with spray, 
 were thickly encrusted with ice, as was also the surface of the 
 rock, which flashed like silver in the sun. A couple of Negroes, 
 
 Old Teruavin Towkb. 
 
 however, were cutting footholds in the slippery vathway ; so 
 that there was no difficulty in making the descent. Every tree 
 and bush and spray, the dead mullein-stalks by the path, the 
 trailing arbutus hanging from the cliff, the leafless maples and 
 beeches cresting its height, were all encased in icy mail. Through 
 the crystal armour could be distinctly traced the outline of the 
 imprisoned Dryad, bowed to earth by the often fatal weight of 
 splendour which she bore. Like the diamond forest of the 
 
332 
 
 CRYSTAL STALACTITES. 
 
 Arabian tale, the grove above the Falls flashed and glittered in 
 the sunlight, an object of incomparable beauty. 
 
 The rocky wall towered far overhead, and overhung the path- 
 way many feet, creating a feeling of undefinable dread. Indeed, 
 the vast overhanging ledge, part of Table Rock, fell with a horrid 
 crash, in 1863; and other portions have since been removed by 
 the Government engineers — one mass of two thousand tons in a 
 single blast. Amid the debris and giant fragments of these 
 Titanic rocks, now covered many feet deep beneath mounds of 
 ice, and fringed with icicles, looking like stranded icebergs in 
 an Arctic sea, ran the pathway to the edge of the great Fall. 
 
 The Bridob leading to Bath and Qoat Islands. 
 
 The overarching rock was thickly hung with thousands of 
 glittering pendants, where the water percolated through the 
 strata, or fell over the . cliff". Nearer the Fall, these became 
 larger and longer, till, meeting the icy stalagmites rising from 
 the ground, they formed crystal columns, often several feet in 
 diameter, sometimes having the appearance of a pillared colon- 
 nade. The ice is generally translucent or of a pearly white, 
 but is sometimes stained with a yellowish tinge by the impuri- 
 ties of the soil. These stalagmitic formations assume the most 
 grotesque and varied forms. One I observed which strongly 
 resembled a huge organ, the burnished pipes shining in the sun. 
 
ICE STATUARY. 
 
 333 
 
 while posterior rows of icy columns completed the internal 
 analogy. Others were strikingly suggestive of marble statuary. 
 One recalled the beautiful figure of Bailey's " Eve," but as if 
 covered with a snowy mantle, half concealing and half revealing 
 the form. In others a slight exercise of the fancy could recog- 
 nize veiled vestals and naiads of the stream, with bowed-down 
 heads, in attitudes of meditation or of grief. Here a " lovely 
 Sabrina " was rising from the wave ; there a weeping Niobe, 
 
 Bird's Eye View of the Falls — from Canadian Side. 
 
 smitten into stone, in speechless sorrow mourned her children's 
 hapless fate. Here writhed Laocoon in agonies of torture ; 
 there Lot's wife, in attitude of flight, yet in fatal fascination, 
 looking back, was congealed in death forever. 
 
 Other ice-formations were arched like a diamond grotto, built 
 by frost-fairies in the night, begemmed with glittering topaz, 
 beryl, and amethyst, and fretted with arabesque device, more 
 lovely, a thousandfold, than the most exquisite handiwork of 
 man. 
 
334 
 
 THE CAVE OF THUNDERS. 
 
 li ' 
 
 As we approach the edge of the great Horse-shoe Fall, the 
 ice-mounds become more massive, the path more rugged, and 
 gusts of icy spray forbid further progress. We stand before a 
 
 Beneath the Canadian Falls. 
 
 mighty arch, forty feet in width, and one hundred and fifty feet 
 high, one side composed of the overhanging cliff, the other of the 
 unbroken sheet of falling water. It is well named the Cave of 
 
AN ICE BRIDGE. 
 
 335 
 
 Thunders. The deafening roar fills the shuddering air like an 
 all-pervading presence, and shakes the solid rock. With its 
 voice of many waters, Niagara chants its mighty and eternal 
 psalm, deep to deep loud calling. 
 
 Great quantities of ice, of course, are carried down the river, 
 from Lake Erie, and go over the Falls. I saw several huge 
 cakes thus descend. So great is the height that they seem to 
 fall quite slowly, 
 and at first to hang 
 almost poised in air. 
 When the river be- 
 low is running full 
 of ice, sometimes a 
 "jam" occurs at the 
 narrowest part; and 
 when intensely cold 
 it speedily "takes," 
 or becomes firmly 
 frozen. Sometimes, 
 however, -several 
 winters pass with- 
 out the formation 
 of an ice-bridge. 
 When it does occur, 
 as was the case the 
 winter of my visit, 
 the accumulation of 
 ice fills up the river 
 to near the Falls, 
 where the strength 
 of the current forces the floating ice under and over the pre- 
 viously formed barrier, till the latter attains a thickness, it is 
 said, of as much as a hundred feet. The ice is piled up in huge 
 dykes, ridges, inounds and barriers, in the wildest confusion. 
 Where a " shove " has taken place, a long, smooth wall remains 
 on the side next the shore. Where a "jam " has happened, a 
 long ridge or towering mound of fractured ice, sometimes great 
 tables tilted up at all angles, is formed. Frequently deep 
 
 Icicles and Stalagmites— below the Falls. 
 
336 
 
 FROST FOLIAGE. 
 
 crevasses or radiating cracks are formed by the upward pres- 
 sure of the ice forced underneath the great sheet. The appear- 
 ance of the surface is like that of a stormy sea suddenly con- 
 gealed at the moment of its wildest rage. 
 
 It was very hard work clambering over the rugged ice-blocks, 
 
 Winter Foliage, Goat Island. 
 
 sometimes disappearing from the sight of a less courageous 
 friend who watched me from the shore, as a boat disappears in 
 the trough of the sea ; but the view from the middle of the 
 river well repaid the trouble. In front stretched the whole 
 sweep of the Horse-shoe Fall, whose mighty flood is so deep 
 where it pours over the precipice, that it retains its glassy 
 greenness for some distance down the abyss. Nearer at hand. 
 
A SEA OF ICE. 
 
 ;i37 
 
 to the left, was the American Fall, of greater height, but of 
 vastly less volume. The glistening sheen of its sun-illumined 
 front, broken immediately to dazzling spray, recalled the in- 
 spired description of those glorious garments, "exceeding white as 
 snow ; so as no fuller on earth can white them." Almost directly 
 overhead, that wire-spun, gauze-like structure, the new suspen- 
 
 NlAOARA IN WiNTBB. 
 
 sion bridge, one thousand two hundred and sixty-eight feet long, 
 seemed almost to float in air at the dizzy height of tv / hundred 
 and fifty feet above the seething flood. Below stretched the 
 gloomy gorge through which rushes the rapid torrent, betraying 
 its resistless energy in the foam-wreaths forming on its chafing 
 
 tide, like 
 
 "The speechless wrath which rises and subsides 
 22 In the white lip and tremor of the face." 
 
338 
 
 THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 
 
 At its narrowest part, two miles below the Falls, it is spanned 
 by the fairy-like railway suspension bridge — a life-artery along 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 SB 
 O 
 
 X 
 H 
 
 n 
 
 b 
 
 CO 
 
 ee 
 
 X 
 H 
 
 which throbs a ceaseless pulse of commerce between the Do- 
 minion of Canada and the United States of America — the two 
 fairest and noblest daughters of grand Old England, the great 
 
4 
 
 A PLEDGE OF AMITY. 
 
 339 
 
 mother of nations. Unhappily, a deep and gloomy chasm has 
 too long yawned between these neighbouring peoples, through 
 which has raged a brawling torrent of estrangement, bitterness 
 and sometimes even of fratricidal strife. But, as wire by wire 
 that wondrous bridge was woven between the two countries, so 
 social, religious and commercial intercourse has been weaving 
 subtle cords of fellowship between the adjacent communities ; 
 and now, let us hope, by the historic Treaty of Washington, a 
 golden bridge of amity and peace has spanned the gulf, and 
 made them one in brotherhood forever. As treason against 
 
 The Whirlpool, Niagara Rivkr. 
 
 humanity is that spirit to be deprecated that would sever one 
 strand of those ties of friendship, or stir up strife between the 
 two great nations of one blood, one faith, one tongue ! May this 
 peaceful arbitration be the inauguration of the happy era fore- 
 told by poet and seer — 
 
 " When the war-drum throbs no longer, and the battle-flags are furled 
 In the Parliament of man, the Federation of the world ! " 
 
 While I was musing on this theme, the following fancies wove 
 themselves into verse, in whose aspiration all true patriots of 
 either land will, doubtless, devoutly join : 
 
340 
 
 THE WHIRLPOOL 
 
 As tho great bridge which spans Niagara's flcmcl 
 Was deftly woven, subtle strand by strand, 
 Into a strong and stable iron band. 
 Which heaviuat stress and strain has long withstood ; 
 So the bright golden strands of friendship strong, 
 Knitting the Mother and the Daughter land 
 In bontls of love — as grasp of kindly hand 
 May bind together hearts estranged long- 
 Is deftly woven now, in that firm gage 
 
 Of mutual plight and troth, which, lot us pray, 
 May still endure unshamed from age to age — 
 
 The pledge of peace and concord true alway: 
 Perish the hand and palsied be the arm 
 That would one fibre of that fabric harm ! 
 
 One striking phase of the Niagara River is often overlooked — 
 
 the Whirlpool, three miles 
 below the Falls. Its wild 
 f j and lonely grandeur is won- 
 derfully impressive. The 
 river here turns abruptly to 
 the right, forming an elbow, 
 and as the waters rush up 
 against the opposite banks, 
 a whirlpool is formed, on 
 which log.s, and even human 
 bodies, have been known to 
 float many days. Tlie river 
 in the centre is estimated by 
 scientific experts to be eleven 
 feet and a half higher than 
 on each shore. 
 
 Through the Whirlpool 
 Rapids the tortured river 
 chafes and frets between thn rocky cliffs, like a huge giant 
 tugging at his chains, till at last it glides out in a broad and 
 placid stream at Qneenston Heights, crowned to the left with 
 the lofty monument ot Canada's favourite hero, Major-General 
 Sir Isaac Brock. 
 
 
 
 The WniRLrooL Rapids. 
 
RUXN/XG THE RAPIDS. 
 
 341 
 
 Throu<,'h this torritic },'orge the little steamer, Maid of the 
 Mid, in order to escape legal seizure, run the gauntlet of the 
 bufi'eting waves. She was well-nigh knocked to pieces, but got 
 
 < 
 
 •/. 
 
 c 
 
 
 safely through. Several foolhardy men have atteniped to run 
 these fearful rapids in barrel-shaped boats, and more than one 
 has paid the penalty of his temerity with his life. 
 
342 
 
 FRUIT GROWING. 
 
 THE SOUTH-WEST PENINSULA. 
 
 The south-western peninsula of Ontario is the very garden 
 of Canada. Grapes of the finest varieties grow in the open air, 
 and considerable quantities of wine are manufactured. All 
 manner of fruits abound. The finest peaches I ever saw grew 
 in my own garden at Hamilton. The peach orchards below the 
 mountain, all the way to the Niagara River, are of unsurpassed 
 productiveness and quality During the peach season the 
 wharf at Niagara is laden with this luscious fruit and the air 
 
 Sunday Mokning in Ontario. 
 
 is fragrant with its exquisite perfume. Apples, plums, pears, 
 cherries, and even that southern fruit, the pawpaw, reach per- 
 fection. But these fruits, with the exception of the latter, 
 abound through all parts of Ontario. 
 
 No part of the. country is so well supplied with railways as 
 this south-western peninsula. Four trunk lines pass through 
 it from end to end, besides numerous transverse lines. Among 
 the many thriving towns and cities that stud the fair and 
 fertile expanse are Welland, St. Catharines, Cayuga, Brantford, 
 Simcoe, St. Thomas, London, Chatham, Petrolia, Sarnia, Inger- 
 
SOCIAL CULTURE. 
 
 343 
 
 soil, Woodstock, Paris, and many another, which the space at 
 our command will nut allow us to dwell upon. 
 
 The intelligence and morality of the pouplu are not Hurpassed 
 
 in any land beneath the sun ; while in the devout observance 
 of the Sabbath our Canadian cities, towns and villages set an 
 example to the whole world. 
 
344 
 
 EDUCA TION. 
 
 The Educational system of Ontario is one of the best in the 
 world. It consists of Public Schools, High Schools end the 
 University, an organic whole, each part fused into the other. 
 Of the primary schools there are five thousand three hundred, 
 which are all public with the exception of two hundred Roman 
 Catholic Separate Schools. At these schools there are nearly 
 five hundred thousand children. The cost of these schools is 
 three million and a quarter dollars, supplemented by a quarter 
 of a million from the public trtjasury of the province. Then 
 follow the High Schools, which are also democratic. There are 
 
 Old Grist Mill. 
 
 five hundred masters of these schools, about ninety per cent, 
 of whom hold degrees from some university in the Dominion. 
 They are attended by fifteen thousand scholars, and cost half a 
 million dollars, one hundred thousand dollars being contributed 
 by the State. Tiiero is no obstacle to the poorest bo^' in the 
 province receiving a good elementary education. There are 
 trained teachers in every school in the province and no experi- 
 menting by novices is allowed. There is a training school in 
 every county ^jf third class tee ohers, and two Normal Schools. 
 One of the most important engineering enterprises of the 
 country is !/he Welland Canal, connecting LtiLe Ontario with 
 
THE WELLAND CANAL. 
 
 Uh 
 
 Lake Erie, and overcoming the difference of two hundred and 
 fifty-two feet between them. This system of internal naviga- 
 tion is further supplemented by the St. Lawrence River canals, 
 which overcome a vertical height of two hundred and thirty- 
 two feet from tide water. By means of these canals vessels 
 may pass direct from Liverpool to Chicago without breaking 
 bulk ; and by means of the Sault Ste. Marie Canal they can 
 pass direct to Duluth, at the head of Lake Superior, nearly 
 midway across the continent. As may well be supposed there 
 are many charming bits of scenery on these canals, e.'vpecially 
 where the Welland Canal overcomes the mountain between the 
 beautiful city of St. Catharines and the busy manufacturing 
 town of Thorold. The water privileges created by the canal have 
 been very extensively utilized, and numerous mills and manu- 
 factories have been established wherever a sufficient head of 
 water could be secured. Near Thorold, at Beaver Dam, occurred 
 one of the most dramatic episodes of the war of 1812-14. 
 
 LAURA SECORD. 
 
 Laura Secord, a brave Canadian woman, during that stormy 
 time, walked alone through the wilderness from her home on 
 the Niagara River to a British Post at Beaver Dam, a distance 
 of twenty miles, to give warning of the invasion of an American 
 force. In consequence of this heroic act nearly the whole of 
 the invading party were captured. The Prince of Wales, when 
 in Canada, visited Laura Secord, then a very old lady, and 
 gave her a handsome present. The following stirring poem by 
 Dr. Jakeway records her brave deed : 
 
 On the sacred scroll of glory 
 
 Let us blazon ffjitli the story 
 Of a bravo Canadian woman, with the fervid pen of fame ; 
 
 So that all the world may read it, 
 
 And that every heart may lieed it, 
 And rehearse it through the ages to tlie honour of her name. 
 
 In the far-oft' days of battle, 
 
 When the muskets' rapid rattle 
 Far re-echoed through the forest, Laura Secord sj^ed along ; 
 
 Deep into the woodland mazy, 
 
 Over pathway wild and hazy, 
 With a firm and fearless footstep and a courage staunch and strong. 
 
346 
 
 LAURA SECORD. 
 
 She had heard the host preparing, 
 
 And at once with dauntless daring 
 Hurried off to give the warning of the fast-advancing foe ; 
 
 And she flitted like a shadow 
 
 Far away o'er fen and meadow, 
 Where the wolf was in the wild wood, and the lynx was lying low. 
 
 From within the wild recesses 
 
 Of the tangled wildernesses, 
 Fearful sounds came floating outward as she fastly fled ahead ; 
 
 And she heard the gutt'ral growling 
 
 Of the bears, that, near her prowling, [they fed. 
 
 Crushed their way throughcjut the thickets for the food on which 
 
 Far and near the hideous whooping 
 
 Of the painted Indians, trooping 
 For the foray, pealed upon her with a weird, unearthly sound ; 
 
 While great snakes were gliding past her. 
 
 As she sped on fast and faster, 
 And disaster on disaster seemed to threaten all around. 
 
 Thus for twenty miles she travelled 
 
 Over pathways rough and ravelled. 
 Bearing dangers for her country like the fabled ones of yore ; 
 
 Till she reached her destination. 
 
 And foi-ewarned the threatened station 
 Of the wave that was advancing to engulf it deep in gore. 
 
 Just in time the welcome warning 
 
 Came unto the men, that, scorning 
 To retire before the foenien, rallied ready for the fray ; 
 
 And they gave such gallant greeting. 
 
 That the foe was soon retreating 
 Back in wild dismay and terror on that fearful battle day. 
 
 Few returned to tell the story 
 
 Of the conflict sharp and gory. 
 That was won with brilliant glory by that brave Canadian band ; 
 
 For the host of prisoners captured 
 
 Far outnumbered the enraptured 
 Little group of gallant soldiers fighting for their native land. 
 
 Braver deeds are not recorded 
 
 In historic treasures hoarded. 
 Than the march of Laura Secord through the forest long ago ; 
 
 And no nobler deed of daring 
 
 Than the cool and crafty snaring 
 By that band at Beaver Dam of all that well-appointed foe. 
 
 
GRIMSBY PARK. 
 
 347 
 
 Grimbsy Park, comprising one hundred acres, laid out on the 
 west shore of Lake Ontario, on the main line of the Grand 
 Trunk Railway, Southern Division, and about midway between 
 Hamilton and the Niagara Falls, is a point of great beauty. 
 
 There is probably no other camp-ground in Canada possessing 
 the religious interest of this time-honoured Assembly. Long 
 before the days of modern summer resorts, it was a place of 
 gathering for the tribes of God's spiritual Israel Many and 
 marvellous were the displays of 
 revival power there manifested, 
 and many throughout 
 the country look to , 
 it with 
 devout 
 
 Gkimsby Park, Forest View. 
 
 gratitude as the place of their spiritual birth into the new life 
 of the Gospel. There, for the first time, I witnessed the inter- 
 esting ceremony of leave-taking and " breaking up the camp." 
 Every person on the ground, except a few who were detained 
 in the tents by domestic duties, joined in a procession, and 
 walked two and two, headed by the preachers, round and round 
 the inside of the encampment, singing hymns and marching 
 songs. 
 
848 
 
 OLD- TIME CAMP-MEETING. 
 
 At length the preachers all took their place in front of the 
 pulpit or preacher's stand, and shook hands with every member 
 of the procession as they passed by. After this the procession 
 continued to melt away, as it were, those walking at the head 
 falling out of rank and forming in single line around the 
 encampment, still shaking hands in succession with those 
 marching, till every person on the ground had shaken hands 
 with everybody else — an evolution difficult to describe intelli- 
 gently to one who has never witnessed it ; yet one that is very 
 easily and very rapidly performed. The greeting was a mutual 
 pledge of brotherhood and Christian fellowship. Warm and 
 
 fervent were the hand-clasps, 
 and touching and tender the 
 farewells. Then the doxology 
 was sung, the benediction pro- 
 nounced, and the camp-meeting 
 was over. 
 
 All this had taken place by 
 noon, or shortly after. Soon a 
 great change passed over the 
 scene. It was like coming 
 down from a Mount of Trans- 
 figuration to the every-day 
 duties of life. The last meal 
 in camp was hastily prepared 
 and eaten, somewhat, as we may imagine, was the last meal 
 of the Israelites before the Exodus. The afternoon was full 
 of bustle and activity, breaking up the encampment, loading 
 up teams, and the driving away to their respective homes 
 of the people who, for over a week, had held their Feast of 
 Tabernacles to the Lord. 
 
 At length the last waggon had gone, the last loiterer had 
 departed, and the silent camp, but late the scene of so much 
 life, was left to the blue-birds and the squirrels. But in many 
 a distant home, and in many a human heart, the germs of a 
 new life had been planted, to bring forth fruit unto life eternal. 
 Very different is the appearance of Grimbsy Park to-day. 
 Instead of the rude sheds, dignified with the name of " tents," 
 
 Victoria Terrace. 
 
A MODERN SUMMER RESORT. 
 
 349 
 
 are groups of elegant cottages, of villa-like proportions and 
 ornate character, or rows of graceful canvas structures, almost 
 rivalling them in taste and beauty. A charming park, winding 
 walks, a pond with water plants, and at night the brilliance of 
 the electric lights, all attest the march of improvement in these 
 latter days. There are those who say that in one respect, at 
 least, the former days were better than these — that there were 
 manifestations of divine power such as are not witnessed at the 
 modern assembly. This is possibly true. But we must take 
 into account the different circumstances under which they are 
 held. The old-fashioned camp-meetings were held for only a 
 week and for a sole and definite purpose — the salvation of souls. 
 This was the burden of prayer for weeks before on all the 
 adjacent circuits, and the 
 preachers and the people 
 came up to the Feast of 
 Tabernacles full of holy ex- 
 pectation — and they were 
 not disappointed. 
 
 The modern summer as- 
 sembly lasts for two or 
 three months. Weary 
 toilers from the cities' 
 crowded hives come for rest and recuperation of body and 
 mind. The same high-strung spiritual tension cannot be main- 
 tained for two or three months that was possible for a week or 
 two. So it is quite probable that intense religious emotions 
 may not be a general characteristic, as during the "old-fashioned 
 camp- meetings." 
 
 1 1 has become a necessity of modern life that the o'er-strung 
 liow shall be unbent, that men in business take a brief holiday 
 from toil, that ladies and children find respite from the exac- 
 tions of society and school. Till recently the chief places of 
 summer resort were scenes of fashionable dissipation and folly, 
 which no Christian could visit without impairment of his 
 spiritual health. Thanks to the management of such assemblies 
 as Grimbsy Park, Wesley Park, the Niagara Assembly, the St. 
 Lawrence Camp-ground, and others of the sort, ample provision 
 
 Park Row. 
 
i 
 
HAMILTON, 
 
 351 
 
 is made for rest and recreation under religious influences, and 
 heads of households may leave their families in such places 
 with the confidence that the moral, social, intellectual and 
 religious influences surrounding them shall be in the highest 
 degree helpful and wholesome. 
 
 Ontario 
 
 Farm Scexkrt 
 
 Situated on a beautiful and capacious bay at the head of 
 Lake Ontario is the city of Hamilton. It is the seat of large 
 manufacturing industries, and the centre of an important rail- 
 way system. The mountain slope in the rear furnish numerous 
 picturesque villa sites, of which the wealthy enterprise of the 
 
 '7^5*.f«sf5Mis"*r5^^^^ 
 
f 
 
THE GRAND RIVER. 
 
 353 
 
 city has not failed to avail itself. The full-page engraving 
 gives a view of Hamilton from the mountain — one of the most 
 beautiful city views to be had in the Dominion. Beneath lies 
 the garden city, before us 
 the sail-dotted harbour, with 
 the rolling hills beyond; to 
 the right the blue waters of 
 Ontario, and to the left the 
 lovely Dundas Valley, which, 
 seen under a western sun, 
 is a vision of delight. The 
 city was laid out and settled 
 in 1813, by George Hamilton. 
 Its new Court House, Post 
 Office, Ladies' College, and 
 other specimens of civic 
 architecture would do credit 
 to any city on the continent. 
 On the Grand River, which 
 winds its devious way from 
 the county of Peel to Lake 
 Erie, are the thriving manu- 
 facturing towns of Gait, Paris, 
 Caledonia, Cayuga, Dun ville, 
 and the important inland city 
 of Brantford, one of the most 
 beautiful and flourishing in 
 the province. Near Brant- 
 ford is the old Indian settle- 
 ment to which the Mohawk 
 Indians were removed from 
 their original settlements on 
 the Mohawk River at the 
 time of the Revolutionary 
 War. Here is situated the 
 oldest church in the province. Its history can be traced back 
 to 1784. It is still occupied for public worship. It possesses 
 a handsome communion service of beaten silver, presented by 
 
 23 
 
354 
 
 INDIAN RESERVES. 
 
 Queen Anne to the Indian chapel on tlie Mohawk River. 
 Beneath the walls of the humble sanctuary repose the ashos of 
 the Mohawk chief, Thayendinaga — Joseph Brant — who gal- 
 lantly fought for the Biitish through two bloody wars. 
 
 Other Indian reserves have been created at several places, as 
 New Credit, Rice Lake, Rama, Walpole Island and elsewhere. 
 On these reserves the Indians have been trained in the arts of 
 peace, and, to a limited extent, in the practice of agriculture. 
 But they do not exhibit much self-reliance nor aptitude of self- 
 support; and the very assistance given them by the Government 
 
 Christian Indian Village, Port Credit. 
 
 and the missionary societies of the several Churches has, to a 
 large degree, kept them in a state of tutelage and wardship 
 that is unfavourable to the development of hardy energy of 
 character. Yet many have been reclaimed from a life of 
 barbarism and savagery, and elevated to the dignity of men 
 and to the fellowship of saints. Our small cut shows the trim 
 aspect of the Indian village at the Credit River, where the Rev. 
 Dr. Ryerson, when a young man, spent the first year of his 
 Christian ministry. He expresses in his private journal, written 
 about sixty years ago, his trepidation on being cajled from this 
 ministration to preach to the cultured and intelligent people of 
 the town of York. 
 
 « 
 
 ^-^ 
 
356 
 
 WESTERN TOIVNS. 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 London, another important city in the Western Peninsula, 
 is situated in the nudst of a fertile agricultural country und 
 is an important railway centre and commercial and manufactur- 
 ing entrepot. Its broad streets, beautiful parks, substantial 
 and ele<fant bulldinfrs, and the pictures(|ueness of the winding 
 river Thames make It a very desirable place of residence. It 
 is also the seat of a successful ladies' college, and of the Western 
 University. 
 
 Nineteen miles south of London is the rapidly growing town 
 of St. Thomas, also an important railway centre and distribut- 
 ing point. Alma College, one of the most successful of the 
 institutions of the province for the higher education of women, 
 is situated here. Ten miles further .south is Port Stanley, on 
 Lake Erie — a charming summer resort and a place of consider- 
 able shipping interest. 
 
 The most .southerly part of Canada is Point Pelee Island, off 
 Point Pelee, in the county of Essex, Ontario. Both of these 
 extend below 42^ north latitude, about the latitude of Rome 
 and Barcelona. Grapes flourish in great profusion. 
 
 Sixty-seven miles west of London is the town of Chatham, 
 on the Southern Division of the Grand Trunk Railway, and on 
 the river Thames, here navigable for vessels of a considerable 
 size. On the Detroit frontier is the quaint old-fashioned town 
 of Amherstburg — a place of considerable military importance as 
 a garrison town during the troublous times of 1812, and during 
 the Rebellion of 1837, but now living on the memories of its 
 past amid its picturesque Lombardy poplars and pleasant rural 
 surroundings. 
 
 Opposite the busy city of Detroit, on the bold banks of the 
 St. Clair, is the handsome and thriving town of Windsor. The 
 proposed construction of a railway bridge or tunnel beneath the 
 river at this point is likely to greatly increase the commercial 
 importance of this town. All along the western frontier there 
 is a considerable survival of the original French population 
 which maintains its language, religion and institutions almost 
 unaffected by its English -speaking environment. It is quite 
 like a bit of Lower Canada transported to the banks of the St. 
 Clair. 
 
358 
 
 OIL PRODUCTION. 
 
 • I 
 
 1 ; 1 
 
 THE OIL WELLS OF CANADA. 
 
 We pause here to reproduce the description from the graphic 
 pen of the Rev. David Savage, of an important industry of 
 Canada, which has its chief seat in the western part of this 
 peninsula : 
 
 " The oil industry of Canada has come to be no insignificant 
 factor in the commerce of the country, though its historical 
 record is a very brief one. Our oil-producing section lies 
 almost wholly within the limits of the county of Lambton, in 
 the townships of Enniskillon, Moore, and Sarnia. Enniskillen 
 has much the most proliiic yield. Within this township are 
 located the villages of Oil Springs, Oil City, and last, but not 
 least, the town of Petvolia, which is the emporium of the oil 
 trade in Canada. It is a strange-looking region this : the flat 
 country covered with a forest of derricks, the surface disfigured 
 by excavations for underground tankage, whose capacitj'^ is a 
 matter of astonishment to strangers — underground tankage is 
 preferred, as it keep'-: the oil at a more equitable temperature, 
 and thus obviates much waste from evaporation. Pipe-lines 
 run Tix all directions with receiving ' stations ' at regular and 
 irregular intervals. We have heard an estimate of the pipe- 
 laying used for the conveyance of oil in this section of country 
 as reaching a longitudinal measurement of between thirty and 
 forty miles. Fireproof iron tanks, engine-houses, treating- 
 houses, still-houses, barrel -houses, agitators — all these latter at 
 headquarters — vary, if they do not improve, the local scenery. 
 A visit to the refineries on a dark, and, if possible, a stormy 
 night, is an indispensable part of the progrannne of sight-seeing 
 for a stranger. The roar and rage of the furnaces, the fiare of 
 the lights, the intense fiery glow fiung upon all near objects, 
 animate and inanimate, set ott' the more conspicuously by an 
 inky background of surrounding darkness, all this together 
 makes up a picture which, for weirdness and wildness, may 
 pass for a not very inferior reproduction of some of the scenes 
 of Tartarus of classic story. A burning oil-tank, the represen- 
 tation of which is given on page .'JG7, happily an event of no< 
 frequent occurrence, is a scene unique in its iiorror, and once 
 seen it is remembered forever. 
 
 : i| 
 
 -4l 
 
 •«iw««f«w(««iBBfi"i«PT»w^ir»e 
 
OIL WELLS. 
 
 359 
 
 " It is said that the greasy, foul-looking, and foul-smolling 
 fluid known as crude oil used to be collected by the aboriginal 
 
 TORI'EDOINC! AN' < /IL-'.VSLI.. 
 
 inhaliitants of the country as it oozed in small (|unnt,ities 
 through the surface soil, an<l was employed by them for rrje<li- 
 ciniil purposes, chiefly, perhaps, as an embrocation. Since the 
 
360 
 
 GUM BEDS. 
 
 settlement of the country, the Indians have been known to 
 offer it for sale to the white man with strong commendations 
 of its virtues. In the neighbourhood ol: Oil Springs are situated 
 the ' gum beds.' These are tracts of about four acres each — 
 tliere are two of them — covered by a crust varying from two 
 or three inches to about as many feet in thickness; the accumu- 
 lation, it may be supposed of ages, being a residuum from the 
 oil forced to the surface, the more volatile properties having 
 passed off in evaporation. The 'gum' is a highly combustible 
 substance, and is used on the spot to feed furnaces. As far 
 back as 1853-4, these 'gum beds' attracted sufficient attention 
 to induce an enterprising Canadian to experiment with chemical 
 appliances upon the strange-looking substance found in the 
 locality. It was demonstrated that lubricating and illuminat- 
 ing oil could be manufactured from it, but not in paying 
 quantities. J. M. Williams, Esq., an enterprising projector, 
 .still further tested the properties of the 'gum,' introducing 
 and vigorously working on the ground two or three small 
 stills.' This was during the years 18.57-58, contemporary 
 with the appearance on the market of refined oil from 
 Pennsylvania. As a business venture, however, the prospect 
 was by no means a sanguine one. About this time, as Mr. 
 Williams was putting down a water-well, a depth had been 
 reached of some thirty feet, when on one memoralile morning, 
 as the workmen returned to the spot for another day's excava- 
 tions, the shaft was found nearly full to the surface of watei — 
 and oil ! 
 
 " Pumping was at once commenced. Other wells were also 
 sunk at depths varying from thirty-seven to seventy feet till 
 the rock was reached This was the infancy of the oil enter- 
 prise, and these wells are known in the nomenclature of 
 the trade as 'surface wells.' The yield of these surface wells 
 was sufficiently encouraging to attract business, capital, and 
 .skill to the locality. Refineries, too, were .started at London, 
 Woodst</ck and Ilaiiiilton. The Sarnia branch of the Great 
 Western Road was now opened, and Wyoming, the nearest 
 •station to Oil Springs, became Uie receiving point for the new 
 staple. For a distance of some thirteen miles the black un- 
 
FLOWING WELLS. 
 
 361 
 
 savory product was drawn with oxen and horses by circuitous 
 routes through the forests and over execrable roads on 'stone 
 boats ' or ' mud sleighs.' Two barrels with the driver were 
 considered under these unfavourable circumstances of travel a 
 full load for a team. The pioneers of the oil industry have 
 some laughable tales to tell of the experiences of these early 
 days, with occasionally a touch of the tragic in them, too. 
 
 "The next stage '.n the development of the Canadian oil 
 trade is marked by the arrival on the scene of L. B. Vaughan, 
 Esq., an enterprising oil operator from Pennsylvania, who, 
 bringing his large American experience to bear upon the work 
 undertaken, commenced at once to drill into the rock, 'strik- 
 ing oil ' at a depth of eighty-six feet from the surface. This 
 was in November, 1860. The new departure proved an 
 assured success. It is argued in support of the Scriptural 
 ,s>p,rment, ' There is no new thing under the sun,' that the 
 ;•. larch Job was evidently in advance of the oil-speculators 
 of our day when, among his experiences iti that remote age, 
 'the rock poured him out rivers of oil.' Leaving the exegesis 
 of this passage in other hands, certain it is that the geological 
 formation now reached and pierced in this Canada of ours did 
 illustrate our quotation on a scale that filled the whole land 
 with the bruit of it. 
 
 "Soon appeared the remarkable phenomena known as 'flow- 
 ing wells.' Without any previous notice, when the drilling of 
 what is known as the 'Shaw well' reached a depth of one 
 hundred and fifty-eight feet in the rock, a powerful stream of 
 petroleum rushed to the surface, spouting to a height of some 
 twenty-five feet from the mouth of the bore. The surprise and 
 bewilderment of the workmen may be conceived. It was more 
 than the bargain. The flow from this well was estimated at 
 — for a time — three thousand barrels a day! Indeed, amongst 
 some thirty Howing wells which followed in quick succession, 
 the discharge from one is said to have reached the almost 
 incredible volume of six thousand barrels in twenty-four hours. 
 No such yield was ever known before or since, even in the 
 history of the older and more extensive oil regions of Penn- 
 sylvania. We are not surprised at being told that the workmen 
 
II 
 
 1 
 
 \ ' 
 
 362 
 
 O VER - PROD UCTION. 
 
 were taken from the mouth of this well blinded and overcome 
 by the rush of gas to the surface ; the wonder rather is that no 
 lives were lost under such exceptional conditions of exposure. 
 Some of these wells flowed but a week, while others kept up 
 their supply — without the use of pumps — for some twelve 
 months. 
 
 " To save the product was of course impossible. -Acres of 
 land were ,co\ ered with it. The native forest had been 
 ' slashed ' in that particular locality, and workmen passed 
 from point to point by the help of the fallen trees, their trunks 
 and limbs and brush furnishing the only road-bed available for 
 the time. Finding the lower level , the waterways were soon 
 full of the unwelcome fluid. Bear Creek was transformed into 
 a rushing river of petroleum. Oil could be dipped from the 
 bed of the river in unknown quantities. On it flowed, discharg- 
 ing into the St. Clair, spreading itself over the surface of the 
 lake and tainting the hitherto unsullied waters of the Detroit 
 River. Some millions of barrels are supposed to have run to 
 waste in this way during this phenomenal season. With the 
 enormous over-prod action, prices of course fell correspondingly. 
 3rude nil would, with difficulty, change hands at ten cents per 
 barrel, while refined was sold at the same rate per gallon. 
 Perhaps no one line of business speculation has been marked by 
 so much uncertainty, such sudden and extreme fluctuations as 
 belong to the oil trade. By 1804 the flowing wells were a thing 
 of the past, and prices rapidly rose until, in the fall of 186'), 
 nude oil stood at ten dollars a barrel. After this, refineries 
 having been established at the village of Oil Springs, and a 
 large amount of capital — much of it American — having being 
 invested in the development of the industry, a point of over- 
 production was again reached, when prices tumbled down once 
 more to forty cents a barrel for crude, and ten cents a gallon 
 for refined. Manufacturers are said to have sold at the latter 
 figure by the car-load. 
 
 "During the years 18G0-7, ^ome very successful ventures in 
 drilling were realized in a locality to the north of Oil Springs 
 operations having been in progress there for some time pre- 
 viously. The yield proved to be just then better as to (juantity, 
 
 I 
 
SINKING A WELL. 
 
 363 
 
 and with less admixture of water than on the old ground. 
 Wells were accordingly 
 multiplied, capital flowed 
 in freely, competition 
 was active, and with a 
 rapidity characteristic 
 to the oil industry, its 
 headquarters was sud- 
 denly shifted from Oil 
 Springs to what is now 
 the town of Petrolia, a 
 municipality which, with 
 its outlying suburb of 
 Marthaville, sustains a 
 population at this writ- 
 ing of between six and 
 seven thousand inhabi- 
 tants. According to the 
 figures furnished by the 
 'Petrolia Crude Oil and 
 Tanking Company,' there 
 were at that time not 
 less than two thousand 
 producing wells in this 
 immediate section. 
 
 " Sinking a well in the 
 old days of 18G1-2 used 
 to be a serious undertak- 
 ing, involving an expen- 
 diture of much money, 
 time and patience. In 
 the matter of time, about 
 as many month* were 
 required at that time as 
 days are now. The work 
 was performed by An^er- 
 icans, who so magnified their office that a long puf^f? was 
 needed to initiate a novice into the respectable craft of uil 
 
 ISlK.MNU W'KLI,, IIV NKillT. 
 
364 
 
 DRILLING. 
 
 
 producers. Since then Pefcrolia has come to be so prolific of 
 skilful drillers that wherever difficult and untried fields are to 
 be pierced, its workmen are in active demand. From Cape 
 Breton to Mt'xico, across to British Columbia, in far-off' Burmah 
 and tremulous Java, in Germany, Italy, Austria and Roumania, 
 drillers from Petrolia have successfully operated on the stony 
 casinc^ that contains the oily treasures of the earth. 
 
 "Six men make up a 'crew' for drill injj. They work in 
 'shifts,' or as it is called here 'tours,' of twelve hours each, 
 three at a time — engineer, driller, and scaffold-man. The 'rig' 
 consists of engine, boiler, walking-beam actuated by crank and 
 pitman, draw- wheel, spool and derrick. The 'tools' are, begin- 
 ning at the bottom, a 'bit' some two and a half feet long, 
 having ten or twelve pounds of steel, nearly five inches wide 
 and one and a half inches thick, welded to a piece of two and 
 a half inch square iron, the upper end forming a pin with 
 shoulder below. This pin is threaded and accurately fitted to a 
 socket at the bottom end of the 'sinker.' The 'sinker' is a 
 bar of three and a (juarter inch round iron, some thirty feet 
 long, ending at the top in a pin like that upon the bit, and 
 connecting wi^h the 'slips,' which consist of a huge pair of 
 chain links whose most important use is to jar the bit and 
 sinker loose in case the bit gets \yedged in the rock, which 
 sometimes happens. With the top of the ' slips ' you reach 
 the end of what dx illers call the ' tools.' Such a ' heft ' of 
 metal with its 'dressed' edge striking the rock at a speed of 
 fully sixty blows a minute, may w^eil be supposed to do very 
 vierorou* execution. The connecticn toward the walkintr-beam 
 is continued by means of poles of two inch white ash, each pole 
 being made of two pieces, each eighteen feet long, riveted 
 securely in the middle with heavy iron straps, the ends having 
 a pin and aocket respectively to onni'ct with other poles. Just 
 in the use of these poles instead of rope lies the superiority of 
 Canadian over Pennsylvanian methods of drilling, the action of 
 poles being uioro positive taun that of rope, and the practicable 
 speed nUogethor higher. 
 
 "The surt'aee of the rock in Petrolia and its neighbourhood 
 is usually reachetl — except by the water-course, where the dis- 
 
DRILLING. 
 
 3G5 
 
 tance is less — at a depth of about one hundred feet. Ninety 
 Eeet of this distance is mostly compact blue clay, then a few 
 feet of hard sand next the rock. The clav is bored through 
 with an auger of peculiar construction and well suited to its 
 work. Ten hours of boring — by hor.se-power — and the rock is 
 generally found. To prevent caving, an octagonal tube of 
 rough inch boards is put into the bore. Then begins the dril- 
 ling. The 'tools' are 'swung," and from live to six consecutive 
 days of twenty-four hours each the rock is pounded and ground 
 at a rate from two to eight feet of progress per hour. After 
 drilling a few feet the hole is 'rimmed' larger for a few inches 
 and the 'casing' put in. This casing consists of wrought iron pipe 
 screwed together in sections, has a diameter of about five inches, 
 and protects the bore against flooding. At intervals of from 
 five to ten feet of drilling, the 'tools' are drawn up and the 
 ' cuttings ' ' sand-pumped.' The .sand-pump is a wrought iron 
 tube about twenty-five or thirty feet long with a valve in 
 the bottom. It is attached to the poles and is f]l!o(! by drop- 
 ping it sharply from the height of a few inches i;pon the mud 
 and 'cutting.s.' 
 
 " The first twenty-five feet of the rock con, I'-tH mostly of 
 limestone, then for a hundred and fifty feet a formation of .soap- 
 stone. The soapstone seems to be just a solidly-compressed 
 clay, then about twenty-five feet of limestone with occasional 
 layers of shale, then from twelve to twenty -five feet of more 
 soapstone, then limestone again, to a depth of four hundred and 
 fifty feet, when for fifteen or twenty feet layers of porous 
 sandstone may be looked for and usually some oil. Small 
 deposits of oil are frequently found all the way fruin the sur- 
 face of the rock down, but the veins that last are rarely reached 
 -short of four hundred and fifty feet from the surface. The 
 charge for putting down a well, including boring, drilling, and 
 other work necessary for testing, is i?22.5. 
 
 "Among the modern appliances for developing the yield of a 
 well is the use of the torpedo, which is now generally intro- 
 duced when the drilling is finished. The well torpedo is simply 
 a tin tube closed at the bottom, five or six feet long, with a 
 diameter of .some three inches. Into this tube nitro-glycerine 
 
 \ 
 
3G6 
 
 TORPEDOING A WELL. 
 
 is poured, the top being left uncovered. To a strip of tin 
 soldered across the upper and open end of the torpedo is 
 fastened a small piece of tin piping in which have been deposited 
 bits of iron wire with gun caps on their ends, the top of the 
 upper piece reaching above the rim of the main tube. The 
 torpedo is lowered through, perhaps, as much as a hundred feet 
 of water which has been poured into the shaft. The explosive 
 is not injured by contact with water, and, having a- greater 
 specific gravity, the tube sinks to the bottom of the well. A 
 piece of iron is then dropped on it, when the gun caps usually 
 explode and the nitro-glycerine is set off. Sometimes, however, 
 additional violence has to be employed to compass this end, as 
 by dropping a heavy bar of iron on the tube, or, it may be, 
 sending down a small case containing an extra pint of the 
 explosive with a second supply of gun caps attached. 
 
 "When the torpedo 'goes off' water, oil, splinters of rock 
 and whatever else may have found its way into the bore, all 
 are blown with great force from the mouth of the well, forming 
 an oily geyser that rises sometimes a hundred feet in the air, 
 bespattering all and sundry within its reach, particularly on 
 the lee side if the wind should chance to be blowing. Torpe- 
 does are also employed with considerable success in renewing 
 old and failing wells. Nitro-glycerine is generally regarded as a 
 highly dangerous commodity, but in the oil country it seems to 
 be handled without fear. Workmen who have occasion to use 
 the compound carry it along the streets with as little concern 
 as they ilo their cold tea, and even drive over our rough roads 
 at a smart trot with cans of the terrible stuff under the s >ats 
 of their buggies." 
 
 The following extract from the author's story of " Life in a 
 Parsonage," gives a sketch of a not unconnnon incident in an 
 oil region : 
 
 " The wells on Oil Creek had been pumping splendidly, and 
 one or two flowing wells that had gone dry began to flow again. 
 Every oil-tank was full — they are enormous iron structures 
 as bis: as a great gasometer — and millions of gallons were sent 
 by the pipe-lines to the great oil refineries and storage tanks. 
 But every place was full and overflowing with oil. It filled 
 
 U^ , 
 
OIL-TANK ON FIRE. 
 
 307 
 
 the tanks, and soaked the grountJ, and poured into the creek, 
 floating on the top of tlie water, and shining in tlie sunliglit 
 with a strange iridescence, all the colours of the rainbow. 
 Everything was reeking with the smell of oil. 
 
 " The strictest orders were given to observe the utmost pre- 
 cautions against fire, and absolutely prohibiting smoking about 
 the works. But there are men who will smoke, even though 
 they were in a powder magazine, or in a mine filled with fire- 
 
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 damp. There was one such, a stoker in the boiler-house. At 
 the close of one of the dark days of December, just as the men 
 were leaving work, he laid down his pipe, which he had been 
 smoking, near some oil-soaked rags ; and in a moment — almost 
 before the men could get out of the building — the whole place 
 was wrapped in flames. The men had to fly for their lives, 
 almost without attempting to save a thing. In a few minutes 
 the whole valley seemed ablaze. The oil derricks caught fire 
 
^ 
 
 IS 
 
 i 
 
 308 
 
 <;//. 7>i:VA' cyV FIRE. 
 
 4 i 
 
 one after another, and flamed like ijreat beacons af^ovinst the 
 dark' pines on the hill .side, li<j;hting np everythinj,^ as brij^ht us 
 day. Presently one of the rrreat oil tanks canj^ht fire, no one 
 knew how, and shot up to the sky a j^reat column of flame and 
 lurid smoke. Then the men began to dij;- trenches from the 
 taid<s to the creek, and I heard them .shout to brini.j the cannon, 
 and tliey drai,'ged the twelve-pounder from the lire-hall u[) to 
 hill, near the tank. They then bcf^an firing round shot against 
 the taid<, so as to draw off the oil into the creek, to prevent it 
 exploding and firing the other tanks. Bang ! bang ! went the 
 cannon. Sometimes the balls missed the tank, sometimes tliey 
 glanced from the iron sides; but at last two balls, one after 
 another, pierced the tank, and the black streams of oil poured 
 out and flowed into the creek ; thousands of dollars' worth 
 going to waste. 
 
 " How it was no one knew, but .suddenly tlie oil in the creek 
 caught fire, and, like a flash, the flames ran down the stream — 
 a river of fire licking up everything that could burn. Oh, it 
 was awful — the roar of the flames, the cra.sh of the falling 
 derricks, the rolling clouds of lurid .smoke! Then the other 
 tanks of oil, one after another, caught fire, and some of thera 
 exploded with a fearful noi.se, scattering the flames .far and 
 wide. In an hour everything was destroyed — only the charred 
 and blackened valley, with here and there a .skeleton derrick 
 and the rusty oil tanks were all that remained." 
 
 We proceed to enumerate the other principal towns and cities 
 of Ontario. 
 
 On the railways running west and north-west from Toronto 
 are the important towns and cities of Milton, Gait, Guelph — 
 with the Government Model Farm — Berlin, Stratford, Seaforth, 
 Clinton, and Goderich, the latter on a commanding bluff" over- 
 looking Lake Huron, with numerous salt wells in the vicinity. 
 These wells are bored to a great depth till the .salt-beds are 
 reached. The strong brine is pumped into vats and is boiled 
 down and evaporated till .salt of great purity is obtained. It 
 commands a ready market throughout the Dominion, and con- 
 tributes not a little to the prosperity of the salt regions of 
 Ontario. Other principal towns north-west of Toronto ar& 
 
 v\i:u^i3SMtss:^'!^ 
 
AVA'7//- n'/.STKRX TOIVNS. 
 
 .'109 
 
 Kincardine, Port Elgin and Walicerton; Wiarton, Owon Sound 
 and Collingwood on Geor^'ian Bay; Fer<,'U3 and Elora, the latter 
 
 A ;Stiit, Sequestekkd Nook. 
 
 surrounded by beau:ifnl soenery, and many a still sequestered 
 nook ; Orangeville, , '< or .jetown, Brampton, and many other 
 centres of trade and manufacturing industry. 
 24 
 

 
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THE NORTHERN RAILWAY. 
 
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 THE MUSKOKA LAKEa 
 
 The Northern Railway, the first iron road constructed in 
 Ontario, opens up a vast extent of rich agricultural country, 
 valuable lumber districts and picturesque lake region. The 
 beautiful, island -studded, forest -bordered Lakes Muskoka, 
 Joseph and Rosseau. furnish one of the most admirable camping, 
 fishing and summer resorts to be found in the province. We 
 borrow the following description from an accomplished writer : 
 
 Leaving Toronto by one of the express trains, the passengers 
 will pass through many populous and prosperous towns and 
 villages, and through a rich agricultural country, which is 
 highly picturesquie, and illustrates a very high standard of 
 farming and its wealth. 
 
 At four miles is Davenport, a hill-side locality fast filling 
 with suburban residences, and whose pretty station with flower- 
 garden and high-gabled roof, conveys reminiscences of English 
 neatness and finish. Between this station and Weston, to the 
 left, is seen the Valley of the Humber, and the Caledon Hills 
 closing in the distant view. 
 
 The height of land between Lakes Ontario and Huron is 
 reuched at the summit (twenty-six mil^is from Toronto), which 
 is seven hundred and fifty-five feet above the level of Lake 
 Ontario, and four hundred and fifteen feet above that of Lake 
 Huron. A few miles beyond King the line passes, by not a 
 few curves, through " The Ridges," and then enters the finely- 
 farmed district especially noted for the excellence of its horses 
 and sheep. The village of Aurora lies to the left. Four miles 
 farther on is Newmarket, population 3,000, a place of con- 
 siderable age and importance, and the headquarters of some 
 energetic manufacturing interests. Near the town of Bradford 
 the line passes over what is known as the Holland River 
 Marsh, a locality celebrated amongst sportsmen for its abundant 
 supply of snipe, wild duck, and for maskinonge and bass fishing. 
 To this point Governor Simcoe constructed the great northern 
 road of the prov ince, Yonge Street. Till the construction of 
 the Northern Railway this was the great artery of commerce. 
 During the war of 1812-14, all the naval and military stores 
 for the naval station at Pcnetanguishene were conveyed over 
 
372 
 
 LAKE SIMCOE. 
 
 
 this road. At the park at Holland Landing is to he seen a 
 huge anchor designed for a British gunboat on Lake Huron, 
 which was drawn by twenty-four teams of oxen from Toronto 
 to its present position. 
 
 AUandale is situate on the shores of Kempenfeldt Bay, one of 
 the arms of Lake Simcoe, and is one of the neatest and most 
 charmingly-situated of railway stations. Having enjoyed this 
 first glimpse of beautiful lake scenery, the train is again taken, 
 and, passing Barrie, the county-town, a prosperous place of 
 6,000 inhabitants, whose houses, built on a hill-side, facing the 
 
 lake, rise picturesquely 
 above one another. A 
 short run follows over 
 a line of exceptional 
 excellence of construc- 
 tion, and through a 
 country of great agri- 
 cultural promise, as yet 
 but partially under cul- 
 tivation. 
 
 Lake Simcoe is the 
 largest of the inland 
 lakes of Ontario, being 
 thirty miles in length 
 and sixteen in breadth. 
 Its shores are charac- 
 terized by great sylvan 
 beauty. At Keswick 
 is seen the charmingly-situated resort of one of the great lumber 
 kings of the country, and many of the other choice spots begin 
 to be occupied with the summer residences of the more wealthy 
 inhabitants. Passing Snake Island, the isolated home of a fast- 
 dwindling Indian tribe, and Lighthouse, and other islands, the 
 open lake is reached. 
 
 The steamer then skirts the upper shores of the lake, past 
 deep bays, whose wooded promontories jut out picturesquely 
 into the water, and, sighting Atherley, after an easy run of two 
 hours, passes Qrape and other islands closely clustered together, 
 
 Laboe Anchor at Holland Landing Park. 
 
 .L 
 
LAKE COUCHICHING. 
 
 373 
 
 and enters the " Narrows," the water channel joining Lake 
 Simcoe with Lake Gouchiching, of which the first view is here 
 gained. 
 
 This lake is the highest in Ontario, being seven hundred and 
 fifty feet above Lake Ontario, four hundred and fifteen feet 
 above Lake Huron, and three hundred and ninety feet above 
 Lake Superior, as is plainly evidenced by the flow of the waters 
 which run northward, and thence bv a succession of falls down 
 the Severn River, gain the Georgian Bay, and so by Lakes 
 Huron and Erie, find their way to the " Great Leap " of the 
 
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 Grapk Island, Lakb Simcok. 
 
 height of land separating the Lakes of Muskoka from Lake 
 waters of all Northern America, the Niagara Falls, thus reach- 
 ing Lake Ontario by a circuit of eight hundred miles to attain 
 a point but forty miles from their original source. The eleva- 
 tion and clearness of the atmosphere, and the cool breezes 
 consequent chereon, would, apart from any other consideration, 
 be sufficient to commend the locality as a favourite summer 
 resort. 
 
 After crossing the Narrows' swing bridge, the line passes 
 through forests, through which distant views are obtained of 
 Lake Gouchiching to the left and Lake St. John to the right 
 
..., 
 
 m 
 
 ■'• i 
 
 374 
 
 ON THE SEVERN. 
 
 Having crossed the Severn upon a lofty bridge, it passes the 
 Couchiching. False impressions of the Free Grant District are 
 
 frequently taken from the appearance of the country seen along 
 this part of the trip \ but as, on the south side, there are tracts 
 
On the Severn— a StiMMER Idyll. 
 
ill 
 
 376 
 
 GRA VENHURST. 
 
 
 of fine farming land, so, to the north, this ridge being passed 
 over, lies the wide, arable country which is being so rapidly 
 peopled by thrifty settlers. 
 
 The Kasheshebogamog, a small stream with a very long name, 
 being crossed, the granite rocks raise their lofty sides, high 
 blufi cliffs overhang the railway as it curves around their 
 bases, in some places the front portion of the train is lost to 
 
 Granite Notch. 
 
 sight from the rear, but finally the " Granite Notch " is reached, 
 and the railway slips through a natural pass, fortunately left 
 for its passage by nature. 
 
 At one hundred and fifteen miles is Qravenhurst, a rising 
 town at the foot of the chain of the "Lakes of Muskoka." 
 From its position, is the key to the great Lake District of the 
 Muskoka, Magnetawan, the Nipissing regions, possessing ex- 
 cellent facilities for first-class railway system to the southward, 
 and by steamers on the lakes, and by rail and stages on the 
 
NORTHERN RA/LIVAY EXTENSfON. 
 
 377 
 
 colonization roads, to the northward. The town occupies a 
 most eligible site, crowning elevated but not too hilly ground, 
 and encircling pretty bays in the form of huge amphitheatres. 
 The railway has recently been extended through a rugged 
 country to North Bay, on Lake Nipissing, where a junction is 
 effected with the Canadian Pacific. It is probable that before 
 
 HioH Falls, near Bracebridge. 
 
 long a further extension will connect the waters of Lake 
 Ontario with those of Hudson Bay. 
 
 At Gravenhurst the steamer of the Northern Lakes Naviga- 
 tion Company may be taken, and, passing out of the bay, through 
 the " Narrows," after a run of an hour through Lake Muskoka, 
 during which dinner is served, the steamer enters Muskoka 
 River. The river is rapid, deep, and dark in colour, the steep 
 
378 
 
 BRACEBRIDGE. 
 
 II 
 
 banks fringed with forest, and the course full of quick, sharp 
 turns. Six miles from the mouth of the river is Bracebridge, 
 the chief village and capital of the District of Muskoka, situated 
 at the head of the Muskoka River navigation. The village is 
 incorporated, and has obtained a position of prominence and 
 importance in advance of all other villages in the Free Grant 
 Lands of Ontario. The site of the town is elevated and well 
 
 Sportsman's Pakauise. 
 
 chosen, commanding magnificent views of the fine valleys which 
 abound in the neighbourhood. The North Falls, a cascade of 
 about sixty feet, is in the centre village, and can be seen from 
 the steamboat landing, but the tourist must stop over to see the 
 grand South Falls of Muskoka, which are some two miles from 
 Bracebridge by road, or three by boat or canoe. The Falls are 
 composed of a series of cascades, and are well worthy of a visit, 
 the total height being one hundred and fifty feet. A good view 
 
DUCK SHOOTING. 
 
 379 
 
880 
 
 LAKE JOSEPH. 
 
 can be obtained by descending a pathway down the bank ; at 
 about half way down, turn to the right, to where a good solid 
 cliff projects, which commands a view of the entire cataract. 
 " Wilson's Falls " and " High Falls " are also within easy reach 
 by carriage or boat. 
 
 After returning down the river, and regaining the lake, in one 
 hour we reach Port Garling, on the Indian River, connecting 
 Lake Muskoka with Lake Rosseau, the higher level of the 
 latter being gained at this place by a Icck. The village might 
 not inaptly have been called Interlaken, from Hs 'position 
 between two lakes. 
 
 l^/:^l; 
 
 'M . 
 
 4./MO:"-- :. 
 
 
 Makino a Pobtaoi— Mcskoka Biveb. 
 
 At this point Lake Joseph is entered. The waters of all the 
 other lakes of Muskoka are dark in colour, but the waters of 
 this are beautifully clear, deep and soft, experienced tourists 
 speaking highly of their bathing qualities. The islands are 
 numerous, the shores rising into bluff headlands and promi- 
 nences peculiar to this lake. After a run of sixteen miles is 
 Port Gockbum. This place, better known perhaps as the 
 "Head of Lake Joseph," is pre-eminently well adapted as a 
 quiet, plain, pleasant, and healthful family summer resort. A 
 very good road connects the lake here with the Parry Sound 
 colonization road, a distance of a little less than two miles. 
 
 Proceeding from Port Carling dtrect up Lake Rosseau, the 
 
HISTORIC MEMORIES. 
 
 381 
 
 steamer touches first at Winderinero, on the east shore, the 
 outlet of an important settlement, and shortly reaches the head 
 of the lake at Rosseau; the place commands an important 
 commercial position, in addition to its great natural beauties 
 and attraction for tourists and sportsmen. 
 
 One of the charms of visiting our beautiful Northern Lakes 
 is their association with tlio memory of the early French 
 explorers of Canada. At Orillia, for instance, was the great 
 rendezvous of the Indian tribes, whither, byway of the O'^^-'wa, 
 French River and Georgian Bay, came Champlain, who, fir; t >f 
 white men, saw these inland waters, two hundred and sevonty- 
 
 RUNNINO A llAPID— MUSKOKA RiVEB. 
 
 three years ago (1615), and where he dwelt among the Indians 
 one whole winter. The islands that dot the surface of the lake 
 gleam in the golden light like emerald gems upon its bosom. 
 The islands in Lake Joseph are of a more rugged character, 
 rising often abruptly in craggy rocks from the deep pellucid 
 waters. Dark spiry spruces also predominate, keeping, like 
 sentinels, their lonely watch on solitary island or cape. 
 
 The greatest fascination of this northern wilderness of lake 
 and stream is the numerous rapids and waterfalls with which 
 they abound. Many of these are of exquisite beauty. To 
 those who are fond of fishing, which, we confess, we are not, 
 these streams furnish great sport. But nothing, in its way, is 
 
382 
 
 THE NORTHERN LAKES. 
 
 more delightful than glidin|r, almost like a bird, over the trans- 
 parent waters of these crystal lakes; or darting, almost like a 
 fish, down the arrowy rapids in the Indian's light canoe. It is 
 the very poetry of motion, and the canoe is, in skilful hands 
 the very embodiment of grace and beauty. 
 
 All the forest's life is in it, 
 All its mystery and its magic, 
 All the brightness of the birch-tree, 
 All the toughness of the cedar, 
 All the larch's supple sinews ; 
 As it floats upon the river 
 Like a yellow leaf in autumn, 
 Like a yellow water-lily. 
 
 The special advantage of the birch canoe is that its lightness 
 permits its being borne, as shown on page 380, over the numerous 
 portages by which the falls and rapids of these northern streams 
 are surmounted. The whole region for hunting and fishing is 
 a very sportsman's paradise. 
 
 LAKES HURON AND SUPERIOU. 
 
 The natural features of our great northern lakes, Huron and 
 Superior, are on a vaster scale than in the smaller lakes. The 
 shores are much bolder and of a sterner character. The scenery 
 is more sublime, but less beautiful. The sail on these lakes 
 may be begun at Midland, Collingwood, Owen Sound or Sarnia. 
 From the two former, one may take the inside channel through 
 the countless islands of Georgian Bay to Parry Sound, Byng 
 Inlet and French River — romantic regions with fine scenery, 
 good fishing and hunting, and extensive lumbering establish- 
 ments. The most attractive route to Sault Ste. Marie is that 
 between Manitoulin Island and the mainland. The entire 
 north coast of Lake Huron is indented with a thousand inlets, 
 separated by rocky capes. The La Cloche Mountains, rising 
 two thousand feet above the sea, stretch alone; its entire lensrth. 
 They are, for the most part, gray, barren rocks of the Huronian 
 formation, with highly tilted strata, and without timber enough 
 to carry a fire over them. They stretqh, like a billowy sea, 
 wave beyond wave, as far as the eye can reach — a scene of stern 
 and savage grandeur, almost appalling in its desolation. On a 
 
SVAfES' CHANNEL. 
 
 888 
 
 narrow passage, between Manitoulin Island and the mainland, 
 is the little fishing hamlet of KiUarney, from which comes 
 much of the fish for the Toronto market. The entrance is 
 highly picturesque and very intricate, whence the Indian name, 
 Shebawenahning — " Here we have a channel." 
 
 A little further west the celebrated Symes' Channel begins a 
 mazy passage 
 among the 
 thousands of 
 islands that 
 border on the 
 North Shore. 
 The most im- 
 pressive char- 
 acteristic of i^" 
 this part of 
 the route is 
 the immense 
 number of is- 
 lands through 
 which the 
 
 channel lies, and which give '* 
 evidence of tremendous geo- 
 logical convulsions. They 
 are of all sizes and of every 
 conceivable shape, from the 
 Grand Manitoulin, containing 
 thousands of square miles, to 
 the single barren rock just 
 above the surface. Some are 
 bare and sterile, others clothed 
 in deep green folitige of the pines, relieved by the brighter tints 
 of the maple and white-skinned birches, which lave their tresses 
 in the water like naiads of the wave, and gaze at their bright 
 reflection on its surface, as though charmed with their own 
 loveliness. Now they seem completely to block up the path- 
 way, and, like wardens of these northern solitudes, to challenge 
 our right to approach their lone domain ; and now they open 
 
 Natural Bridge, Mackinac. 
 
384 
 
 NORTHERN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 out into majestic vistas of fairy beauty as though inviting our 
 advance. Here they rise in lofty wood-crowned heights, and 
 there they merely lift their rounded backs, like leviathans, above 
 the water. In the distance they seem like a group of Tritons 
 sporting on the waves. In other places the steamer passes 
 through channels so narrowed that one might almost leap ashore 
 — in one the trees nearly brush the deck. At one spot forty of 
 these islands are in sight at once. Captain Bayfield set down 
 on his magnificent charts of these regions, thirty-six thousand 
 separate islands, on twenty thousand of which he had himself 
 set foot. In Lake Superior, according to Agassiz, there are 
 
 Sadlt Stu. Marii Falls. 
 
 nearly as many. They are all, with slight exceptions, on the 
 north shore. In the clear air and bright sunlight of these 
 regions some of the finest atmospheric effects are produced. 
 The red and purple and cool grays of the lichens, and the deep 
 rusty blue of the metallic oxides, produce rich bits of colour 
 such as artists love. Before reaching the Sault, the steamer 
 sometimes calls at Mackinac, at the entrance to Lake Michigan. 
 This is a place of much historic interest and scenic attraction. 
 The remarkable natural bridge in our cut is much visited. 
 
 At the Sault Ste. Marie, the St. Mary's River, giving outlet 
 to the mighty waters of Lake Superior, rushes like a race-horse 
 
MEMORIES OF SAULT STE. MARIE. 
 
 38£ 
 
 down its rocky channel, flecked with snowy foam as it leaps 
 from ledge to ledge. A short distance below, the buoy, strug- 
 gling like a drowning man with the waves, shows the strength 
 of the current. The Indians catch splendid fish in the rapids 
 with a scoop net, urging their frail canoes into the seething 
 vortex of the waves. 
 
 In 1671, Father Allouez planted a cedar cross and graved the 
 lilies of France, and, in the presence of a conclave of Indian 
 chiefs from the Red River, the Mississippi, and the St. Lawrence, 
 chanted, in the depths of the forest and beside the snowy waters 
 of St. Mary's Falls, the Mediaeval Latin hymn, — 
 
 " Vexilla Regis prodeunt 
 ^ Fulget crucis mysterium." 
 
 Thus was the sovereignty of the whole country assumed in 
 the name of His Most Christian Majesty Louis XIV. The 
 traces of that sovereii^nty may be found from the island of St. 
 Pierre to the Rocky Mountains, from Hudson's Bay to the Gulf 
 of Mexico, in many of the names, and frequently in the preva- 
 lence of the languai'o and relisjion of La Belle France. The 
 early French explorers, with a wonderful prescience, followed 
 the great natural routes of travel, seized the keys of commerce, 
 and left their impress on the broad features of nature in the 
 names they gave to many of the mountains, lakes and rivers 
 of the continent. To-day the red Indian on the Qu'Appelle 
 presents his offering at the shrine of the Virgin on his return 
 from the hunt, and the voyageurs and coureurs de hois of the 
 Upper Ottawa and the great North- West chant the wanton 
 chansons sung by the courtiers of Versailles under the old 
 regime. 
 
 Passing through the lofty headlands of Gros Cap and Point 
 Iroquois, the northern Pillars of Hercules, some five or six 
 miles apart, we r ' - '■\- 'load expanse of this mighty island 
 lake, the "Big Sea Water" of the Indians. It is surrounded by 
 an almost unbroken rocky rim, from three or four hundred to 
 thirteen or fourteen hundred feet high, rising almost abruptly 
 from the shores. Over this the rivers fall in successive cascades, 
 frequently of five or six hundred feet in a few miles. In con- 
 
886 
 
 A FINE OUTLOOK. 
 
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ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 
 
 387 
 
 sequence of its depth, the waters are extremely cold, varying 
 little from 40° Fah. They are also remarkably clear. Dilke, in 
 his "Greater Britain," says, "clearer than those of Ceylon," 
 which are famed for their transparency. The North Shore of 
 this great " unsalted sea " will be described later on. 
 
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 OVER THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 
 The following pages will give an account of a trip across the 
 continent by our new national highway, the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway. I enjoyed the company, as far as Winnipeg, of that 
 genial travelling companion, the Rev. T. B. Stephenson, LL.D., 
 fraternal delegate from the British to the Canadian Methodist 
 Conference, who was also on a journey to the Pacific Coast. 
 Dr. Stephenson has been quite a " globe-trotter," and I think 
 enjoys the distinction of having seen more of Methodism 
 throughout the world than probably any man living. He has 
 also visited,'! think, every considerable town and city in the 
 Dominion, from Halifax to Victoria, B.C. In his journey round 
 the world he has found no place offering the conditions of pros- 
 perity to the young people trained in the various branches of 
 " the Children's Home " in England, like our beloved Canada. 
 
 We left the Union Station, Toronto, at five p.m., on September 
 22nd, 1886. As we skirted the northern front of the city, tine 
 views were obtained of its many towers and spires and of the 
 elegant villas on the neighbouring heights. A fine outlook is 
 obtained over the beautiful valley of the Don, from the graceful 
 bridge, combining both strength and beauty, which spans 
 that s+rftam, of the picturesque hamlets of Todmorden and 
 Affincourt, and of the rich farmsteads of Markham and Picker- 
 ing. In about three hours we reach the thriving town of 
 Peterborough with nine thousand inhabitants, on the Otonabee, 
 in a beautiful environment of hill and dale. Charbot Lake is 
 a charming sheet of water with bold, rocky shores, and dotted 
 with numerous verdure-clad islands. Perth and Smith's Falls 
 are thriving towns and important distributing centres for a 
 flourishing agricultural district. But of these we see nothing 
 during this trip, for we have not long, after leaving Toronto, 
 turned from the gathering darkness without to the warmth and 
 
' i 
 
 888 
 
 OUR INTER-OCEANIC HIGHWA Y. 
 
 cheer within, and devoted ourselves to tea and talk, and then 
 to our comfortable beds — for, on the modem railway, one may 
 carry with him all the comforts of home. 
 
 The Canadian Pacific 
 Eailway is, I believe, the 
 longest railway under one 
 management in the world. 
 From Quebec to Vancouver 
 City is three thousand and 
 ninety miles, and exten- 
 sions are projected to 
 Louisburg, Cape Breton, 
 nearly a thousand miles 
 more. Canada is the only 
 
 
 On Chabbot Lake. 
 
 country in the v;^orld, except Russia in Europe and in Asia 
 combined, in which a continuous road of four thousand miles 
 through a territory under one govetiiment is, possible. The 
 main line begins at Montreal, from which place the through 
 
 wm 
 
 msmm> 
 
UP THE OTTAWA. 
 
 389 
 
 trains for the Pacific Coast start, passing through Ottawa. The 
 Canadian Pacific Railway has now a direct line from Toronto 
 to Montreal and the St. Lawrence seaboard, crossing the St 
 Lawrence near Lachine, on the fine iron bridge shown in cut. 
 
 The train on which I left Toronto, however, did not run 
 through to Ottawa City, but switched ofi^ in the night, at 
 Carleton Junction, upon the main line to the West, passing the 
 somewhat important towns of Almonte, Arnprior, Renfrew and 
 Pembroke, the latter situated on Allumette Lake, a beautiful 
 expansion of the Ottawa. 
 
 St. Lawrence Bridge, near Lachine. 
 
 When I awoke early in the morning we were gliding up the 
 valley of the Ottawa. The train swept along on a high bench 
 above the winding stream, here dimpled with smiles, there 
 seeming almost black by contrast with the snowy foam of the 
 frequent rapids. Across the stream great uplands sweep to the 
 sky-line. We passed many saw-mills and lumber villages with 
 their great rafts of timber — many of these with a rustic Roman 
 Catholic log church, surmounted by a huge wooden cross, for 
 many of the settlers, perhaps a majority, are French habitants. 
 The dense forests of pine climbed the steep slopes and stood in 
 serried ranks at the tops, like sentinels against the sky. The 
 
mffff^' 
 
 890 
 
 FRENCH VILLAGES. 
 
 sombre blues and purples were relieved by the brighter tints 
 of the yellow larches and white-skinned birches and shivering 
 aspens. The uptilted strata of the ancient Laurcntian rock 
 attested the volcanic energy of long by-past ages, and the huge 
 travelled boulders illustrated the phenomena of the drift 
 period, when great glaciers ploughed and ground and moulded 
 the whole northern part of the continent. 
 
 French Canadian Village, 
 ON THE Ottawa. 
 
 LUMBERING. 
 
 The great river Ottawa, with its confluent streams, the Houge, 
 Lifevre, Gatineau, Bonnechere, Madawaska, Petewawa, Coulonge, 
 Noire, Moine, and many another, is the chief seat of one of 
 Canada's most important industries — the lumbering interest. 
 It will, therefore, be a convenient place here to give a brief 
 account of some aspects of this great industry. 
 
 I i 
 
 wmmmmmmm^ 
 
 .^if.^i. '■ >Ai; .,-; ^.'''lV.i,i^;-4■iit.v-ViSl 
 
CHA UDIERE SA W-MILLS, 
 
 391 
 
 There are many saw-mills on the Ottawa and its tributaries 
 at which the logs are 8awn into lumber. The largest of these 
 are situated at Chaudifere Falls, where the immense water- 
 power is employed to run great gangs of saws, which will cut 
 up a huge log in a marvellously short time. These, in the busy 
 season, run day and night; and the scene when the glittering 
 
 On the Head Waters of the Ottawa. 
 
 saws and wet and glistening logs are brilliantly illuminated 
 by the electric light, and are reflected in the flashing waters, is 
 a very remarkable one. But very many of the mills are much 
 smaller, and are situated near the source of supply of timber, 
 presenting the appearance shown in cut on next page. In course 
 of time all the available timber is used up, when the mill is 
 dismantled and the machinery moved to a new source of supply. 
 The great bulk of the lumbering, however, is done in remote 
 

 ^1 
 
 Saw-Mill in the Woods. 
 
 fr5»35j5^^^^ 
 
 m 
 
LUMBERING, 
 
 393 
 
 pine forests or timber limits leased by " lumber kings " who 
 employ large gangs of lumbermen in getting out the logs at 
 remote lumber camps. Often roads have to be made many 
 miles through the forest for the convenience of transporting 
 supplies for the large force of men and forage for the great 
 number of teams employed. Where it is possible, the mill is 
 built by a stream, as in cut on this page, for facility in floating 
 the logs and for the purpose of utilizing any water-power avail- 
 
 TyPICAIi Saw-milin 
 
 able. But very often steam-power is used, either exclusively 
 or as auxiliary. 
 
 The following sketch of life in a lumber camp is abridged 
 from the writer's story of " Lawrence Temple," which devotes 
 much space to this subject : ' 
 
 A lumber camp consists generally of a group of buildings form- 
 ing three sides of a hollow square, the fourth side being open, 
 with a warm, sunny exposure, toward the south. One of these 
 
394 
 
 A LUMBER CAMP, 
 
 buildings is a strong storehouse for keeping the flour, pork, tea,' 
 sugar, and other supplies required for one or two hundred men 
 for half a year. There is also ample stabling for the numerous 
 teams of horses employed. The most important building is the 
 "shanty" or boarding-house for the men. Instead of being, as 
 
 its name might imply, a frail structure, 
 it is a large, strongly-built log-house. 
 The openings between the logs are filled 
 with moss and clay. The windows are 
 very few and small For this there arc 
 three reasons — larger openings would 
 weaken the structure of the house, and 
 let in more cold, and glass is a rather 
 scarce commodity on the Upper Ottawa. 
 The whole interior is one large room. 
 The most conspicuous object is a 
 huge log fire-place or platform, like 
 an ancient altar, in the centre of the 
 floor. It is covered with 
 earth and blackened 
 embers, and is often 
 surrounded by a pro- 
 tecting border of cobble 
 stones. Immediately 
 over it an opening in 
 the roof gives vent to 
 the smoke, although in 
 the dull weather much 
 of it lingers among the 
 rafters, which fact gives 
 them a rather sombre 
 appearance. Around 
 the wall are rude " bunks " or berths like those in a ship, for 
 the accommodation of the shantymen. A few exceedingly solid- 
 looking benches, tables and shelves, made with backwoodsman 
 skill, with no other instrument than an axe and auger, are all 
 the furniture visible. Some wooden pegs are driven in the 
 wall to support the guns, powder-horns, shot-pouches, and extra 
 
 Part or Logoikq Camp. 
 
 fitgmmg^ 
 
 »'7-,V'«'*!?'«»'W^W»^^Y'r. 
 
S/fANTV LIFE. 
 
 S95 
 
 le 
 a 
 
 clothing; of the men. Over the doorway is, perhaps, fastened 
 a large deer's head with branching antlers. The house is warm 
 and comfortable, but with nothing like privacy for the men. 
 
 The other buildings are simi- 
 larly constructed and roofed 
 with logs split and partially 
 hollowed out. During the finu 
 weather the cooking is done at 
 a camp-fire in the court-yard, 
 but in winter at the huge hearth 
 in the shanty. A large log hol- 
 lowed into a trough catches rain 
 water, while for culinary pur- 
 poses a spring near at hand 
 suffices. 
 
 On the walls of the stable one 
 will see, perchance, stretched 
 out, dried by the sun, stained by 
 the weather and torn by the 
 wind, the skins of several pole- 
 cats, weasels, and other vermin — 
 evidence of the prowess of the 
 stable boys and a warning of the 
 fate which awaits all similar de- 
 predators — just as the Danish 
 pirates, when captured by the 
 Saxons, were flayed and their 
 skin nailed to the church doors, 
 as a symbol of the stern justice 
 meted out in the da'v.s of the 
 Heptarchy. 
 
 The camp is soon a scene of 
 activity. The stores are safely 
 housed and padlocked. Each 
 workman stores away his " kit" 
 
 under his berth or on a shelf or peg above it. Axes are 
 sharpened on a large grindstone, and when necess'' ^ utted 
 with new helves, and everyone is prepared for a winter 
 
 In the Pine Forest. 
 
396 
 
 TREE FELLING. 
 
 campaign against the serried array of forest veterans. Such 
 are the general arrangements adopted for carrying out the 
 great national industry of Canada — an industry in which more 
 capital is employed l;han in any other branch of business, and 
 from which a greater annual revenue is derived. 
 
 The stately trunks rise like a pillared colonnade, " each fit to 
 be the mast of some high admiral." The pine needles make an 
 elastic carpet under foot, and the bright sunlight streams down 
 through the openings of the forest, flecking the ground with 
 
 LoADiNO Logs. 
 
 patches of gold. The stalwart axemen select each his antago- 
 nist in this life-and-death duel with the ancient monarchs of 
 the forest. The scanty brushwood is cleared. The axes gleam 
 brightly in the air. The measured strokes fall thick and fast, 
 awaking strange echoes in the dim and distant forest aisles. 
 The white chips fly through the air, and ghastly wounds gape 
 in the trunks of the ancient pines. Now a venerable forest 
 chief shivers through all his branches, sways for a moment in 
 incertitude, like blind Ajax fighting with his unseen foe, then. 
 
 •PWB 
 
LOGGING. 
 
 397 
 
 with a shuddering groan, totters and reels crashing down, 
 shaking the earth and air in his fall. As he lies there, a pros- 
 trate giant that had wrestled with the storms of a hundred 
 winters, felled by the hand of man in a single hour, the act 
 seems a sort of tree murder. 
 
 The fallen trees are cut into logs of suitable length by huge 
 saws worked by couples cf brawny sawyers. When the snow 
 falls these are drawn to the river side by sturdy teams of oxen. 
 The logs are loaded on the sleds by being rolled up an inclined 
 plane formed by a pair of " skids," as shown in the engraving" 
 on opposite page. A stout chain is 
 attached to the sled and passed around 
 the log, and a pair of oxen tug at the 
 other end of the chain till the un- 
 wieldy mass, 
 sometimes it 
 weighs nearly 
 a ton, is haul- 
 ed on to the 
 sled. This 
 heavy work, 
 as may be sup- 
 posed, is not 
 without dan- 
 
 LoAuiNO Loos WITH Cant-hooks. 
 
 ger: 
 
 and now 
 
 and then serious accidents occur, when only the rude surgery of 
 the foreman or " boas " is available. Lighter logs are rolled up 
 with cant-hooks, as shown in the smaller engraving on this 
 page. 
 
 AUTUMN IN CANADA. 
 
 That beautiful season, the Canadian autumn, passes rapidly 
 by. The air is warm and sunny and exhilarating by day 
 though cool by night. The fringe of hardwood trees along the 
 river's bank, touched by the early frost as if by an enchanter's 
 wand, is changed to golden and scarlet and crimson of countless 
 shades, and, in the transmitted sunlight, gleams with hues of 
 vivid brilliancy. The forest looks like Joseph in his coat of 
 
398 
 
 DYING SUMMER. 
 
 many colours, or like a mediajval herald, the vaunt-courier of 
 the winter, with his tabard emblazoned with gules and gold. 
 
 Then the autumnal gusts career like wild bandits through 
 the woods, anil wrestle with the gorgeous-t'oliaged trees, and 
 despoil them of their gold, and leave them stripped naked and 
 bare, to shiver in the wintry blast. In their wild and prodigal 
 glee they whirl the stolen gold in lavish largess through the 
 air, and toss it contemptuously aside to accumulate in drifts in 
 the forest aisles, and in dark eddies by the river side. Then 
 the gloomy sky lowers, and the sad rains weep, and the winds, 
 as if stricken with remorse, vail a requiem for the dead and 
 perished flowers. 
 
 But there comes a short season of reprieve before stern 
 winter asserts his sway. A soft golden haze, like the aureole 
 round the head of a saint in Tintoretto's pictures, tills the air. 
 The sun swings lower and lower in the sky and views the earth 
 with a pallid gleam. But the glory of the sunsets increase, 
 and the delicate intricacy of the leafless trees is relieved against 
 the glowing wester.i sky, like a coral grove bathing its branches 
 in a crimson sea. 
 
 Clouds of wild pigeons wing their way in wheeling squadrons 
 through the air, at times almost darkening the sun. The 
 weJge-shaped fleets of wild geese steer ever southward, and 
 their strange wild clang falls from the clouds by night like the 
 voice of spiiits from the sky. The melancholy cry of the 
 loons and solitary divers is heard, and long whirring flights of 
 wild ducks rise from the water in the dim and misty dawn to 
 continue their journey from the lonely Northern lakes and far- 
 eft' shores of Hudson's Bay to the genial Southern marshes and 
 meres — piloted by that unerring Guide who feedeth the young 
 ravens when they cry and giveth to the beasts of the earth 
 their portion of meat in due season. 
 
 The squirri;ls have laid up their winter store of acorns and 
 beech-nuts and may be seen whisking their bushy tails around 
 the bare trunks of the trees. The partridges drum in the woods 
 and the quails pipe in the open glades. The profusion of 
 feathered game gives quite a flavour of luxury to the meals of 
 the lumbermen. 
 
Canadian Autumn, 
 

 'TT 
 
 
 400 
 
 THE DYING SUMMER. 
 
 A charming American poet has given us an exquisite picture 
 af this beautiful season : 
 
 I love to wander through the woodlands hoary 
 
 In the soft light of an Autumnal day, 
 When Summer gathers up her robes of glory, 
 
 And like the dream of beauty glides away. 
 
 How in each loved, familiar path she lingers, 
 
 Serenely smiling through the golden mist, 
 Tinting the wild-grape with her dewy fingers. 
 
 Till the cool emerald turns to amethyst. 
 
 Warm lights are on the sleepy uplands waning, 
 
 Beneath soft clouds along the horizon rolled, • 
 
 Till the slant sunbeams thro' their fringes raining. 
 Bathe all the hills in melancholy gold. 
 
 The little birds upon the hill-side lonely 
 
 Flit noiselessly along from spray to spray ; 
 Silent as a sweet wandering thought, that only 
 
 Shows its bright wings and softly glides away. 
 
 The scentless flowers in the warm sunlight dreaming. 
 
 Forget to breathe their fulness of delight, 
 And through the tranced woods soft airs are streaming. 
 
 Still as the dew-fall of the summer night. 
 
 The writer has endeavoured imperfectly to depict the exqui- 
 site loveliness of our Canadian autumn in the following lines : 
 
 Still stand the trees in the soft hazy light, 
 
 Bathing their branches in the ambient air ; 
 
 The hush of beauty breatheth everywhere : 
 In crimson robes the forests all are dight. 
 Autumn flings forth his banner in the field, 
 
 Blazoned with heraldry of gules and gold ; 
 
 In dyes of blood his garments all are rolled, 
 The gory stains of war are on his shield. 
 Like some frail, fading girl, her death anear. 
 
 On whose fair cheek blooms bright the hectic ros% 
 So burns the wan cheek of the dying year, 
 
 With beauty brighter than the summer knows ; 
 And, like a martyr, 'mid ensanguined fires, 
 Enwrapped in robes of flame he now expires. 
 
THE WANING YEAR, 
 
 Like gallant courtiers, the forest trees 
 
 Flaunt in their crimson robes with 'broiclered gold ; 
 
 And, like a king in royal purple's fold, 
 The oak flings largess to the beggar breeze. 
 Forever burning, ever unconsumed, 
 
 Like the strange poi-tent of the prophet's bush. 
 
 The autumn flames amid a sacred hush ; 
 The forest glory never brighter bloomed. 
 Upon the lulled and drowsy atmosphere 
 
 Falls faint and low the far-off' muffled stroke 
 Of woodman's axe, the school-boy's ringing cheer. 
 
 The watch-dog's bay, and crash of falling oak ; 
 And gleam the apples through the orchard trees, 
 Like golden fruit of the Hesperides. 
 
 40] 
 
 But one morning, perchance, late in November, a strange 
 stillness seems to have fallen on the camp. Not a sound floats 
 to the ear. A deep muffled silence broods over all things. 
 The outer world seems transfigured. The whole earth is 
 clothed in robes of spotless white, " so as no fuller on earth can 
 white them," like a bride adorned for her husband. Each twig 
 and tree is wreathed with " ermine too dear for an earl." The 
 stables and sheds are roofed as with marble of finest Carrara, 
 carved into curving drifts with fine sharp ridges by the 
 delicate chiselling of the wind. A spell seems brooding over allj 
 
 Silence, silence everywhere — 
 On the earth and on the air ; 
 
 and out of the infinite bosom of the sky the feathery silence 
 continues to float down. 
 
 The lumbering operations are carried on with increased vigour 
 during the winter season. War is waged with redoubled zeal 
 upon the forest veterans, which, wrapping their dark secrets 
 in their breasts and hoary with their covering of snow, look 
 venerable as Angelo's marble-limbed Hebrew seer. When 
 beneath repeated blows of the axe, like giants stung to death 
 by gnats, they totter and fall, the feathery flakes fly high in 
 air, and the huge trunks are half buried in the drifts. Then, 
 sawn into logs or trimmed into spars, they are dragged with 
 much shouting and commotion by the straining teams to the 
 26 
 
402 
 
 A WOLF STORY. 
 
 :\^^ 
 
 river brink, or out on its frozen surface, as shown in thrj 
 engraving on this page, to be carried down by the spring 
 freshets toward their distant destination. 
 
 Drawing Loos on the Ice. 
 
 AN ADVENTURE WITH WOLVES. 
 
 The following winter adventure in a lumberman's life, several 
 years ago, is also quoted from the author's "Lawrence Temple:" 
 
 In the month of March, when the snow lay deep upon the 
 ground, a messenger was despatched by the " boss " lumberman 
 to Ottawa, a distance of some two hundred miles, to report to 
 the agent of the Company the quantity of timber that had 
 been got out and to bring back from the bank a sum of money 
 to pay off a number of the lumbermen. Owing to a prejudice 
 on the part of the men against paper money, he was directed 
 to procure gold and silver. He was to ride as far as the town of 
 
A WILD RIDE. 
 
 403 
 
 vn in tho 
 the spring 
 
 few 
 
 ife, several 
 ce Temple:" 
 ) upon the 
 lumberman 
 o report to 
 that had 
 oa of money 
 
 a prejudice 
 ?as directed 
 the town of 
 
 sr 
 
 Pembroke, about half way, and leaving his horse there to rest, 
 was to go on to Ottawa in the stage. He selected for the 
 journey the best animal in the stable — a tall, gaunt, sinewy 
 mare of rather ungainly figure, but with an immense amount of 
 go in her. 
 
 Having drawn the money from the bank, chiefly in English 
 sovereigns and Mexican dollars, he set out on his return journey. 
 At Pembroke he mounted again his faithful steed for his ride 
 of over a hundred miles to the camp. The silver he carried in 
 two leathern bags in the holsters of the saddle, and the gold in 
 a belt around his waist. He also carried for defence a heavy 
 Colt's revolver. Toward the close of the second day he was 
 approaching the end of his journey. The moon was near the 
 full, but partially obscured by light and fleecy clouds. 
 
 He was approaching a slight clearing when he observed two 
 long, lithe animals spring out of the woods towards his horse. 
 He thought they were a couple of those large shaggy deer- 
 hounds which are sometimes employed near the lumber camps 
 for hunting cariboo — great powerful animals with immense 
 length of limb and depth of chest — and looked around for the 
 appearance of the hunter, who, he thought, could not be far off". 
 He was surprised, however, not to hear the deep-mouthed bay 
 characteristic of these hounds, but instead a guttural snarl 
 which, nevertheless, appeared to affect the mare in a most 
 unaccountable manner. A shiver seemed to convulse her frame, 
 and shaking herself together she started off on a long swinging 
 trot, which soon broke ,into a gallop that got over the ground 
 amazingly fast. But her best speed could not outstrip that of 
 the creatures which bounded in long leaps by her side, occasion- 
 ally springing at her haunches, their white teeth glistening in 
 the moonlight, and snapping when they closed like a steel trap. 
 
 When he caught the first glimpse of the fiery flashing of their 
 eyes there came the blood-curdling revelation that these were 
 no hounds but hungry wolves that bore him such sinister 
 company. All the dread hunters' tales of lone trappers lust in 
 the woods and their gnawed bones discovered in the spring 
 beside their steel traps, flashed through his mind like a thought 
 of horror. His only safety he knew was in the speed of his 
 
104 
 
 HANDICAPPED. 
 
 mare, and she was handicapped in this race for life with aboub 
 five-and-twenty pounds of silver in each holster. Seeing that 
 she was evidently flagging under the tremendous pace, he 
 resolved to abandon the money. " Skin for skin, yea, all that a 
 man hath will he give for his life ;" so he dropped both bags 
 on the road. To his surprise the animals stopped as if they 
 had been only highwaymen seeking merely his money and not 
 his life. He could hear them snarling over the stout leather 
 bags, but lightened of her load the mare sprang forward in a 
 splendid hand gallop that covered the ground in gallant style. 
 
 He was beginning to hope that he had fairly distanced the 
 brutes, when their horrid yelp and melancholy long-drawn 
 howl grew stronger on the wind, and soon they were again 
 abreast of the mare. He now threw down his thick leather 
 gauntlets with the hope of delaying them, but it only caused a 
 detention of a few minutes while they greedily devoured them. 
 He was rapidly nearing the camp ; if he could keep them at 
 bay for twenty or thirty minutes more he would be safe. As a 
 last resort he drew his revolver, scarce hoping in his headlong 
 pace to hit the bounding, leaping objects by his side. More- 
 over, they had both hitherto kept on the left side of the mare, 
 which lessened his chance as a marksman. The mare, too, who 
 was exceedingly nervous, could never stand fire ; and if he 
 should miss, and in the movement be dismounted, he knew that 
 in five minutes the maw of those ravenous beasts would be his 
 grave. 
 
 One of the brutes now made a spring for the horse's throaty 
 but failing to grasp it, fell on the right side of the animal. 
 Gathering himself up he bounded in front of her and made a 
 dash at the rider, catching and clinging to the mare's right 
 shoulder. The white foam fell from his mouth and flecked his 
 dark and shaggy breast. The rider could feel his hot breath 
 on his naked hand. The fiendish glare of those eyes he never 
 in all his life forgot. It haunted him for years in midnight 
 slumbers, from which he awoke trembling and bathed in the 
 cold perspiration of terror. He could easily have believed the 
 weird stories of lycanthropy, in which Satanic agency was 
 feigned to have changed men for their crimes into were-wolves 
 
 "3'W»»'tsrrT«'?i?7'K«-> 
 
WERE-WOLVES. 
 
 405 
 
 — ravenous creatures who added human or fiendish passion and 
 malignancy of hate to the bestial appetite for human flesh. 
 If ever there was rriurder in a glance, it was in that of those 
 demon-eyes, which seemed actually to blaze with a baleful 
 greenish light — a flame of inextinguishable rage. 
 
 The supreme moment had come. One or other must die. 
 In Ave minutes more the man would be safe in the camp or else 
 be a mangled corpse. He lifted up his heart in prayer to God, 
 and then felt strangely calm and collected. The muzzle of his 
 revolver almost touched the brute's nose. He pulled the 
 trigger. A flash, a crash — the green eyes blazed with ten-fold 
 fury, the huge form fell heavily to the ground, and in the same 
 moment the mare reared almost upright, nearly unseating her 
 rider and shaking his pistol from his hand, and then plunging 
 forward^ rapidly covered the road in her flight The other 
 famishing beast remained to devour its fellow. He galloped 
 into the camp, almost fell from his mare, which stood with a 
 look of human gladness in her eyes, and staggered to the rude 
 log shanty, where the blazing fire and song and story beguiled 
 the winter night, scarce able to narrate his peril and escape. 
 After light refreshment, for he had lost all relish for food, he 
 went to bed to start up often in the night under the glare of 
 those terrible eyes, and to renew the horror he had undergone. 
 
 In the morning, returning with a number of the men to look 
 for the money, he found the feet, tail, muzzle and scalp of the 
 slain wolf in the midst of a patch of gory snow, also the skull 
 and part of the larger bones, but gnawed and split in order to 
 get at the marrow. And such, thought the messenger, would 
 have been his fate but for the merciful Providence by which he 
 was preserved. They found also, some distance back, the straps 
 and buckles of the money-bags, and the silver coins scatterde 
 on the grdund and partially covered by the snow. 
 
 Such were some of the perils to which the early pioneers of 
 Canada were exposed in their exploration and travel through 
 the well-nigh pathless wilderness. Indeed, for some time after 
 the partial settlement of the country, on lonely post routes the 
 solitary mail- carrier found himself not unfrequently confronted 
 by savage wolf or bear. 
 
406 
 
 SHOOTING THE RAPIDS. 
 
 A LOO JAM. 
 
 At last the spring comes to the lumber camp. The days 
 grow long and bright and warm. The ice on the river becomes 
 sodden and water-logged, or breaks up into great cakes beneath 
 the rising water. The snow on the upland rapidly melts away, 
 and the utmost energy is employed in getting down the logs to 
 the river before it entirely disappears. The harsh voice of the 
 blue jay is heard screaming in the forest, and its bright form 
 is seen flitting about in the sunlight. The blithe note of the 
 robin rings through the air. A green flush creeps over the 
 trees, and then suddenly they burgeon out into tender leafage. 
 The catkins of the birch and maple shower down upon the 
 ground. A warm south wind blows, bringing on its wings a 
 copious rain. The rivers rise several feet in a single night. 
 Perchance a timber boom breaks with the strain upon it, and 
 thousands of logs go racing and rushing, like maddened herds 
 of sea-horses, down the stream. Generally the heavy boom 
 below holds firm, and they are all retained. Occasionally a log 
 jam occurs, such as is described as follows : 
 
 It is a grand and exciting sight to see the logs shooting the 
 rapids. As they glide out of the placid water above, they are 
 drawn gradually into the swifter rush of the river. They 
 approach a ledge where, in unbroken glassy current, the stream 
 pours over the rock. On they rush, and, tilting quickly up on 
 end, make a plunge like a diver into the seething gulf below. 
 After what seems to the spectator several minutes' submergence, 
 they rise with a bound partially above the surges, struggling 
 * like a strong swimmer in his agony " with the stormy waves. 
 Now they rush full tilt against an iron rock that, mid-stream, 
 challenges their right to pass, and are hurled aside, shuddering, 
 bruised, and shattered from the encounter. Some are broken 
 in twain. Others are shivered into splinters. Others glide by 
 unscathed. Now one lodges in a narrow channel. Another 
 strikes and throws it athwart the stream. Then another and 
 another, and still others in quick succession lodge, and a formid« 
 able "jam " is formed. Now a huge log careers along like a 
 bolt from a catapult. It will surely sweep away the obstacle. 
 With a tremendous thud, like the blow of a battering-ram, it 
 
 a3®i'!j«SS53HSSf.SPtSS-«-f> 
 
A JAM. 
 
 407 
 
 stiikes the mass, which quivers, grinds, groans, and apparently 
 yields a moment, but is faster jammed than over. The water 
 rapidly rises and boils and eddies with ten-fold rage. In a 
 short time hundreds of the logs are piled up in inextricable 
 confusion. 
 
 The "drivers" above have managed to throw a log across 
 the entrance to the rapid to prevent a further run, and now set 
 deliberately about loosening the "jam." With cant-hooks, 
 pike-poles, levers, axes and ropes, they try to roll, pry, chop, or 
 haul out of the way the logs which are jammed together in 
 a seemingly inextric- 
 able mass. The work 
 has a terribly perilous 
 look. The jam may 
 at any moment give 
 way, carrying every- 
 thing before it with 
 resistless force. Yet 
 these men, who appear 
 almost like midgets as 
 compared with its im- 
 mense mass, swarm 
 over it, pulling, tug- 
 ging, shoving and 
 shouting with the ut- 
 most coolness and dar- 
 ing. Like amphibious 
 
 animals, they wade into the rushing ice-cold water, and clamber 
 over the slippery logs. 
 
 Now an obstructive " stick," as these huge logs are called, is 
 set free. The jam creaks and groans and gives a shove, and 
 the men scamper to the shore. But no ; it again lodges appar- 
 ently as fast as ever. At work the men go again, when, lo ! a 
 single well-directed blow of an axe relieves the whole jam, 
 exerting a pressure of hundreds of tons. It is Sauve qui peut! 
 Each man springs to escape. The whole mass goes crashing, 
 grinding, groaning over the ledge. 
 
 Is everybody safe? No; one has almost got to the shore when 
 
 A Loo Jam. 
 
408 
 
 BREAKING A JAM. 
 
 he is caught, by the heel of his iron-studded boot, between 
 two grinding logs. Another moment and he will be swept or 
 dragged down to destruction. A stalwart raftsman, not without 
 imminent personal risk, springs forward and catches hold of his 
 outstretched hands. Another throws his arms around the body 
 of the second, and bracing himself against a rock they all give 
 a simultaneous pull and the imprisoned foot is relieved. And 
 well it is so, for at that moment the whole wrack goes rushing 
 by. The entire occurrence has taken only a few seconds. 
 These lumbermen need to have a quick eye, firm nerves, and 
 
 Brkakinq a Lou Jam. 
 
 )i often to hang on 
 
 strong thews and sinews, for their lives see; 
 a hair. 
 
 But what is that lithe and active figure dancing down the 
 rapids on a single log, at the taiJ of the jam ? It is surely no 
 one else than Baptiste la Tour, the French shantynian. How 
 he got there no one knows. He hardly knows himself. But 
 there he is, gliding down with arrowy swiftness on a log that 
 is spinning round under his feet with extraordinary rapidity. 
 With the skill of an acrobat or rope-dancer he preserves his 
 balance, by keeping his feet, arms, legs, and whole body in 
 constant motion, the spikes in his boots preventing his slipping. 
 
PVELL STEERED, BAPTISrE. 
 
 409 
 
 So long as the log is in deep water and keeps clear of rocks 
 and other logs he is comparatively safe. 
 
 But see! he will surely run on that jutting crag! Nearer 
 and nearer he approaches ; now for a crash and a dangerous 
 leap ! But no ! he veers off, the strong back-wash of the water 
 preventing the collision. Now the log plunges partly beneath 
 the waves, but by vigorous struggles he keeps his place on its 
 slippery surface. Now his log runs full tilt against another. 
 The shock of the collision shakes him from his feet ; he staggers 
 and slips into the water, but in a moment he is out and on his 
 unmanageable steed again. As he glides out into the smooth 
 water below the rapids a ringing cheer goes up from his com- 
 rades, who have been watching with eager eyes his perilous ride. 
 They had not cheered when the jam gave way, ending their 
 two hours' strenuous effort. But at Baptiste's safety, irrepres- 
 sibly their shouts burst forth. With the characteristic grace 
 of his countrymen, he returns the cheer by a polite bow, and 
 seizing a floating handspike that had been carried down with 
 the wrack, he paddles toward the shore. As he nears it he 
 springs from log to log till he stands on solid ground. Shaking 
 himself like a Newfoundland dog, he strides up the bank to 
 receive the congratulations of his comrades. 
 
 RAFTING. 
 
 Each log in these " drives " bears the brand of its owner, and 
 they float on together, to be arrested by the huge boom, and 
 there sorted out to their several owners. The long spars and 
 square timber intended for exportation are made up into 
 " drams," as they are called. These consist of a number of 
 "sticks" of pine, oak, elm, or ash, lashed side by side. They 
 are kept together by means of " traverses " or cross pieces, to 
 which the " sticks " are bound by stout withes of ironwood or 
 hickory, made supple by being first soaked in water and then 
 twisted in a machine and wound around an axle, by which 
 means the fibres are crushed and rendered pliable. The "drams" 
 are made just wide enough to run through the timber slides. 
 On the long, smooth reaches of the river they are fastened 
 together so as to make a large raft, which is impelled on its 
 
410 
 
 RAFTING. 
 
 way by the force of the current, assisted by huge oars, and, 
 when the wind is favourable, by sails. In running the rapids, 
 or going through the slides, the raft is again separated into its 
 constituent "drams." On the "cabin dram" is built the cook's 
 shanty, with its stores of pork, bread, and biscuit. When all 
 is ready the raft is loosed from its moorings, and with a cheer 
 from the men, glides down the stream. It is steered by huge 
 " sweeps " or oars, about twelve yards long. The crew are, of 
 
 i"^??^;'':^;*^^'. --- 
 
 Down at the Booh. 
 
 course, delighted at the prospect of returning to the precincts 
 of civilization, though to many of them that means squandering 
 their hard-earned wages in pi'odigal dissipation and riot. 
 
 The voyage down the river is generally uneventful but not 
 monotonous. The bright sunlight and pure air seem to exhila- 
 rate like wine. The raftsmen dance and caper and sing " En 
 roulant ma boule," and 
 
 " Ah ! que I'hiver est long! 
 Dans les chantiers nous hivemerons 1 " 
 
 Running the rapids is an exciting episode not devoid of a 
 
RUNNING THE RAPIDS. 
 
 411 
 
 spice of danger. With the increasing swiftness of the current 
 the water assumes a glazed or oily appearance. Objects on the 
 shore fly backward more rapidly. The oars at bow and stern 
 are more heavily manned. Right ahead are seen the white 
 seething "boilers" of the rapids. With a rush the dram 
 springs forward and plunges into the breakers which roar like 
 
 Rafting on the SIattawa. 
 
 sea monsters for their prey. The waves break over in snowy 
 foam. The shock knocks half the men off their feet. They 
 catch hold of the traverse to avoid being washed overboard. 
 The dram shudders throughout all its timbers, and the withes 
 groan and creak as if they would burst asunder under the 
 strain. The brown rocks gleam through the waves as they 
 flash past. Soon the dram glides out into smooth water. The 
 
412 
 
 LAKE NIPISSING. 
 
 white-crested billows race behind like horrid monsters of Scylla, 
 gnashing their teeth in rage at the escape of their prey. 
 
 The great caldron of the Chandifere, in which the strongest 
 dram would be broken like matchwood, is passed by means of 
 the Government timber slides — long sloping canals, with timber 
 sides and bottoms, down which the drams glide with immense 
 rapidity. Sometimes they jam with a fearful collision. But 
 such accidents are rare. 
 
 This is the way Canada's great timber harvest seeks the sea. 
 A.t Quebec the rafts are broken up and the "sticks" are hauled 
 through timber ports in the bows of the vessels that shall bear 
 it £0 the markets of the Old World. (See cut of Wolfe's Cove). 
 
 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 
 
 I must, however, return from this lumber episode to the 
 account of the overland trip to the Pacific. After following for 
 several hours the Upper Ottawa and its important confluent, 
 the Mattawa, at nine o'clock in the morning we reach North 
 Bay, on Lake Nipissing. So calm and bright and beautiful is 
 the outlook that it might be taken for Biloxi Bay, in the Gulf 
 of Mexico, two thousand miles south, if one could substitute 
 the feathery palmettoes for the white-barked birches. Through 
 this very lake, two hundred and fifty years ago, the first Jesuit 
 missionaries made their way, having toiled up the Ottawa and 
 the Mattawa, and made thirty-five portages around the rapids 
 of these rivers. From Lake Nipissing they glided down the 
 French River — whose name still commemorates their exploit — 
 to Lake Huron, and then through Lake Superior to the far 
 west. " Not a river was entered, not a cape was turned," says 
 Bancroft, " but a Jesuit led the way." They have left their 
 footprints, in the names of lake, and stream, and mountains, all 
 over the west and north-west of the continent. 
 
 Trains from Toronto now come directly north to Lake Nipis- 
 sing, through Barrie, Orillia, and Bracebridge, thus saving the 
 long cUtour round by Carleton Junction. 
 
 We are here transferred to the magnificent sleeping-car 
 "Yokohama," running through from Montreal to the Pacific 
 Coast. It is the most sumptuous car in which I ever rode. 
 
 
LUXURY OF TRAVEL. 
 
 413 
 
 
 
 Its easy cushions and upholstery and bath-room seem to war- 
 rant the reported remarks of a Royal Prince and a Duke : "I'm 
 not used to such luxury," said the Prince to the Duke; "No 
 more am I," said the Duke 
 to the Prince. One has |j 
 need of every comfort he 
 can procure during the 
 long week's journey in 
 which the car h^ecomes his 
 travelling home. Through 
 most of the route an ele- 
 
 In a Canadian Pacific Railway 
 Sleeping Car. 
 
 gant dining- tjar is attached 
 tc the tiuin, where one can 
 have all the luxuries of an 
 hotel — soup, fish, three or 
 four courses, entrees and des- 
 sert — for seventy-five cents. 
 At Sudbury Junction a branch road diverges to Algoma on 
 Lake Huron, and is now completed to Sault Ste. Marie and 
 on to St. Paul, thus providing the American Great West with 
 an almost air line to the Atlantic seaboard. This must divert 
 
4>U 
 
 A STERILE REGION, 
 
 a large amount of traffic which now goes via Chicago and 
 south of the lakes. At Sudbury much business activity was 
 exhibited, on account of the copper mines in its vicinity, said 
 to be unusually rich and easy of access. It is well that there 
 is some wealth beneath the surface, for there is not much above. 
 The country has a dreadfully sterile and stony look. Even the 
 telegraph poles have to be built around with stones to support 
 them. All along the road are abandoned construction-camps, 
 roofless, windowless log-houses, not long since occupied by the 
 brigades of railway navvii built this highway of civiliza- 
 
 tion through the wilderness. i corduroy construction-roads 
 
 are in many places still used for local travel. 
 
 Yet there are frequently arable tracts in this long sterile 
 stretch, where quite a population is gathering, as also at the 
 divisional stations of the Canadian Pacific Railway, where there 
 must of necessity be a round-house, repairing-shops, and a 
 considerable number of railway employees. The following 
 extracts from an account of t»iis region by the Rev. Silas Hunt- 
 ington, will be read with interest : 
 
 " The new field, which is to me an object of great solicitude, 
 embraces a narrow strip of territory lying along the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway from the Sturgeon to the Capasaesing Rivers — 
 a distance of two hundred and thirty-four miles. It is occupied 
 by a mixed adult population, numbering between two thousand 
 five hundred and three thousand souls, who are variously dis- 
 tributed over its entire length, but mainly located in groups 
 around the chief centres of traffic. Some are employed as 
 miners, mill-men and timber-makers, and some of them are 
 connected with the railway as officers, artizans and labourers. 
 Protestants and Roman Catholics are about equal in number. 
 During the time that the railway was under construction, 
 thousands of every nationality and religious persuasion, how- 
 ever piously they may have been taught and trained, cast off 
 all religious restraint and became wholly demoralized. A few 
 godly men and women remained faithful to God and to their 
 own souls, and these still compose the van in the work of 
 evangelism. At Sturgeon Falls, Sudbury, Cartier and Chapleau, 
 they have formed the nuclei of living churches. 
 
A PIONEER MISSIONARY. 
 
 415 
 
 " Sturgeon Falls is a thriving village of four hundred inhabi- 
 tants, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Sturgeon River, 
 quite near to Lake Nipissing. It is surrounded by excellent 
 farming lands and pine forests. Sudbury possesses, at the 
 present time, four hundred inhabitants, with the prospect of a 
 very numerous population in the near future, owing to the 
 extensive mining industries which are being developed in its 
 vicinity. Cartier is a divisional station on the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway, forty miles west of Sudbury. It possesses only a 
 small resident population of railway officers and employees. 
 Chapleau is a village of five hundred inhabitants, situated one 
 hundred and twenty-five miles west of Cartier. The hospital 
 of the Eastern Division, with its stu, ■• of medical men and 
 surgeons, is likewise located here, as is also the headquarters of 
 the Company's staflT of engineers and surveyors. The Hudson's 
 Bay Company has an important post established at this point, 
 in connection with which I have found a band of Indians, 
 numbering seventy-two souls, who were converted from pagan- 
 ism at Michipicoton, over twenty years ago, under the labours of 
 the late Rev. George McDougall. They claim to be Methodists, 
 and through all these years, although separated from the body 
 of their tribe, they have kept their faith and maintained their 
 religious worship without the aid of a missionary. 
 
 " After leaving Sturgeon Falls, you may journey through the 
 entire length and breadth of the region which I have described, 
 and you will not discover a place of worship belonging to any 
 Protestant denomination, and only one belonging to the Roman 
 Catholics. I have preached in private houses — or, more properly 
 speaking, 'shanties' — in railway stations, in boarding-houses, 
 in cars, in the jail, and in the open air, but such places are not 
 suitable for our evangelistic work, and often they are not 
 available owing to the crowded state of all habitable buildings. 
 I have tried to supply the want arising from the absence of 
 suitable places of worship, by providing a portable tent large 
 enough to contain eighty or one hundred persons."* 
 
 ♦Since this was written, by the indefatigable efforts of Mr. Huntington, 
 some five or six churches have been erected in the region above described. 
 
 
416 
 
 A CANADIAN CORNICHE. 
 
 THE NORTH SHORE. 
 
 Early in the morning we strike Lake Superior at Heron 
 Bay. For two hundred miles we skirt its shores. Great pro- 
 montories run out from the mountain background into the lake, 
 which makes striking indentations in the land. At one of 
 these, Jackfish Bay, the opposite sides are within a quarter of a 
 mile, yet the road has to run three miles round to make that 
 distance. So sinuous is it that it runs seven miles to make a 
 mile and a quarter. In marching across the snow and slush of 
 this and other gaps in the road, during the late North- West 
 rebellion, our volunteer troops suffered extreme hardships. 
 The broad views over the steel blue lake remind me of those 
 over the Gulf of Genoa from the famous Corniche road. One 
 gets an almost bird's-eye view of the winding shore and many 
 islands of the lake. These are chiefly of basaltic origin, and 
 .rise at their western ends in steep escarpments from the water. 
 So close are some of these cliffs that their columnar structure, 
 like gigantic castle walls built by Titan hands, painted with 
 bright lichen, and stained and weathered with the storms 
 of ten thousand winters, is clearly discernible. The grandest 
 example of this structure is Thunder Cape, rising nearly one 
 thousand four hundred feet above the lake. 
 
 The entire north shore of Lake Superior gives evidence of 
 energetic geological convulsion* The convulsions seem to have 
 been greatest in the neighbourhood of Nipigon and Thunder 
 Bays. Here the scenery, therefore, is of the most magnificent 
 description, and of a stern and savage grandeur not elsewhere 
 found. Nipigon Bay extends for nearly a hundred miles be- 
 tween a high barrier of rocky islands and the mainland. I was 
 a passenger, nearly twenty years ago, on the first Canadian 
 steamer — the old Algoma — that ever entered the River Nipigon. 
 A sen.se of utter loneliness bmoded over these then solitary 
 waters. In all these hundred miles I saw not a single human 
 habitation nor a human being save three squalid Indians in a 
 bark canoe. At the western entrance of the channel rises 
 Fluor Island, to the height of a thousand feet, like the Genius 
 of the rocky pass arising from the sullen deep. At the mouth 
 of the Nipigon River the mountains gather around on every 
 
THE NIPIGON. 
 
 417 
 
 a 
 ses 
 ius 
 th 
 
 side in a vast amphitheatre, like ancient Titans sitting in 
 solemn conclave on their solitary thrones. For from their 
 rocky pulpits, more solemnly than any human voice, they pro- 
 claim man's insignificance and changefulness amid the calm and 
 quiet changelessness of nature. 
 
 When the sun goes down in golden splendour, and the deep- 
 ening shadows of the mountains creep across the glowing waves, 
 in the long purple twilight of these northern regions a tender 
 pensiveness falls upon the spirit. The charm of solitude is over 
 all, and the coyness of primeval nature is felt. It seems, as 
 Milton remarks, like treason against her gentle sovereignty not 
 to seek out those lovely scenes. 
 
 The captain of the steamer determined to give us a good 
 view of the famous Red Rock near the mour:: of the Nipigon, 
 and sailed close beneath it. But he sailed so close that we ran 
 hard upon a sand-bar, and had ample opportunity all day 
 long to study its lichen-painted front. The sailors made 
 strenuous efforts to float the steamer by shifting the cargo and 
 using long spars to pry her off the bar, but all in vain. Towards 
 evening the wind veered round and blew up the river, raising 
 the level of its waters sufficiently to float the steamer, and we 
 went on our way rejoicing. The soundings are now well known, 
 and no such danger need be feared. 
 
 At Thunder Bay we reach the. rival towns of Port Arthur 
 and Fort William, with their gigantic elevators and great docks 
 and breakwater, both destined doubtless to become part of one 
 great city. On the occasion of my first visit there was not 
 even a wharf, and passengers had to get ashore in boats and 
 the freight was landed by means of rafts. Now there are 
 streets of good stores and handsome houses and the auguries 
 of great growth and prosperity. 
 
 Thunder Bay is a grand expanse of water, twenty-five miles 
 in length, fifteen to twenty-five in width, in shape almost 
 circular, and hemmed in on all sides by mountains, bluff head- 
 lands, and island peaks. On entering, to the right is Thunder 
 Cape, a remarkable and bold highland, standing out into the 
 lake; the sheer cliff rises perpendicularly 1,350 feet above the 
 water, the formation having in many places a basaltic appear- 
 27 
 
«Le 
 
 THUNDER CAPE. 
 
 ance. Above it almost always hovers a cloud, and in times of 
 storms the cape appears to be the centre of the full fury of the 
 thunder and lightning, hence the great awe in which it is held 
 by the Indians, and the name they have given it 
 
 To the south-west is seen McKay's Mountain, above Fort 
 William, and further to the left is the peculiarly shaped Pie 
 Island, resembling a gigantic pork pie, about eight hundred 
 feet in height, and of similar basaltic formation to that of 
 Thunder Cape, on the otuer side of the entrance. 
 
FORT WILLIAM. 
 
 419 
 
 Fort William, at the time when I first saw it, was about as 
 unmilitary-looking a place as it is possible to conceive. Instead 
 of bristling with ramparts and cannon, and frowning defiance 
 at the world, it quietly nestled, like a child in its mother's lap, 
 at the foot of McKay's Mountain, which loomed up grandly 
 behind it. A picket fence surrounded eight or ten acres of 
 land, within which were a large stone store-house, the residence 
 of thfe chief factor, and several dwelling-houses for the em- 
 ployees. At a little distance was the Indian mission of the 
 Jesuit fathers. A couple of rusty cannon were the only war- 
 like indications visible. Yet the aspect of the place was not 
 
 Sai2g^ 
 
 McKay's Mountain. 
 
 always so peaceful, A strong stockade once surrounded the 
 post, and stone block-houses furnished protection to its de- 
 fenders. It was long the stronghold of the North-West 
 Company, whence they waged vigorous war against the rival 
 Hudson's Bay Company. In its grand banquet chamber the 
 annual feasts and councils of the chief factors were held, and 
 alliances formed with the Indian tribes. Thence were issued 
 the decrees of the giant monopoly which exercised a sort of 
 feudal sovereignty from Labrador to Charlotte's Sound, from 
 the United States boundary to Russian America. Thither 
 came the plumed and painted sons of the forest to barter their 
 furs for the knives and guns of Sheffield and Birmingham and 
 
420 
 
 DR. SCHULTZ' F. SCAPE. 
 
 the gay fabrics of Manchester and Leeds, and to smoke the pipe 
 of peace with their white allies. Those days have passed away. 
 Paint and plumes are seen only in the far interior, and the furs 
 are mostly collected far from the forts by a^^ents of the Com- 
 pany. 
 
 About thirty miles up the Kamanistiquia are the Kakabeka 
 Falls. The river here, one hundred and fifty yards wide, 
 plunges sheer down one hundred and thirty feet. The scenery 
 is of majestic grandeur, which, when better known, will make 
 
 ,._ this snot a favour- 
 '^\ ite resort of the 
 tourist and the 
 lover of the pic- 
 turesque. 
 
 The four „un- 
 dred and thirty 
 miles' journey be- 
 tween Thunder 
 Bay and Winni- 
 peg lies chiefly 
 through a very 
 broken country, 
 full of connected 
 lakes and rivers, 
 picturesque with 
 every combination 
 of rocks, tumbling 
 waters and quak- 
 ing "muskeg." 
 Through this wild region Dr. Schultz, now the popular Lieu- 
 tenant-Governor of Manitoba, after escaping from imprison- 
 ment by Kiel during the first North- West Rebellion, made his 
 way on foot, and amid incredible hardships which seriously 
 undermined his health. What an irony of fate that the usurper 
 now lies in an unknown grave, while his qiumdam, victim 
 occupies the highest position in the land. 
 
 Here are, explorers say, much good land and valuable timber 
 limits and rich mineral deposits. At Rat Portage the scenery 
 
 Kakabeka Faixs. 
 
ill 
 
 SPOHrSMAN'S PARADISE. 
 
 is of remarkable beauty, as it is said to be all through the 
 
 region of the Lake of 
 
 the Woods and other 
 
 parts of what was till 
 
 lately known as "the 
 
 disputed territory." 
 
 Our engraving will in- 
 
 On Lake of the Woods. 
 
 dicate in part the 
 varied beauty of the 
 landscape. This re- 
 gion, now compara- 
 tively unknown, is 
 destined to be a 
 favourite resort of 
 sportsmen and sum- 
 mer tourists. Hat 
 Portage has grown to be a place of considerable importance. 
 
 SStaxr^i'i':^'''*""'''''^'**'*^'''**''''^''* 
 
 ka^MMiall 
 
MANITOBA. 
 
 423 
 
 MAI^ITOBA. 
 
 BEFORE we enter the great Province of Manitoba and 
 the Canadian North-West it will be well to summarize 
 their general character. Many of the following statements are 
 abridged from reliable information furnished by the Canadian 
 Government, and are in large part quoted verbatim. 
 
 The Province of Manitoba is situated in the very centre of 
 the continent, being midway between the Atlantic and Pacific 
 Oceans on the east and west, and the Arctic Ocean and Gulf of 
 Mexico on the north and south. 
 
 The southern frontier of Manitoba is a little to the south of 
 Paris, and the line being continued would pass through the 
 south of Germany. Manitoba has the same summer suns as that 
 favoured portion of Europe. The contiguous territory, includ- 
 ing the great Saskatchewan and Peace River regions, is the 
 equivalent of both the empires of Russia and Germany on the 
 continent of Europe. To use the eloquent words of Lord 
 Dufferin : " Manitoba may be regarded as the keystone of that 
 mighty arch of sister provinces which spans the continent from 
 the Atlantic to the Pacific. Canada, the owner of half a con- 
 tinent, in the magnitude of her possessions, in the wealth of her 
 resources, in the sinews of her material might, is peer of any 
 power on the earth." 
 
 The summer mean temperature of Manitoba is 67° to 76", 
 which is about the same a% the State of New York. But in 
 winter the thermometer sinks to 30° and 40° and sometimes 50° 
 below zero. The atmosphere, however, is very bright and dry, 
 and the sensation of cold is not so unpleasant as that of a 
 temperature at the freezing point in a humid atmosphere. 
 
 Manitoba and the North-West Territory of Canada are among 
 the absolutely healthiest countries on the globe, and most 
 pleasant to live in. There is no malaria, and there are no 
 
424 
 
 SOIL AND CLIMATE. 
 
 diseases arising out of, or peculiar to, either the orovince or the 
 climate. 
 
 The climatic drawbacks arex>ccasIonal storms and " blizzards/' 
 and there are sometimes summer frosts. But the liability to 
 these is not greater than in many parts of Canada or the United 
 States as far south as New York. Indeed, these blizzards have 
 been far more severe in Dakota, far to the south of Manitoba, 
 than they have ever been known in the province. 
 
 Very little snow falls om the prairies, the average dept'i being 
 about eighteen inches, and buffaloes and the native horses graze 
 out of doors all winter. The snow disappears and ploughing 
 
 An Immior.\jnx Tkain 
 
 begins from the first to the lutter end of April, a fortnight 
 earlier than in the Ottawa region. 
 
 The soi. is a rich, deep, black argillaceous mould or loam, 
 resting on a deep and very tenacious clay subsoil. It i.s among 
 the richest soils in the world, if not the richest, and is especi- 
 ally adapted to the growth of wheat. Analyses by chemists in 
 Scotland and Germany have established this fact. The soil is 
 so I'.ch that it does not require the addition of manure for years 
 after the first breaking of the prairie, and in particular places 
 where the black loam is very deep it is practically inexhaustible. 
 
 All the cereals grow and ripen in great abundance. Wheat 
 
PRODUCTS. 
 
 425 
 
 is especially adapted both to the soil and climate. The wheat 
 grown is ^ery heavy, being from sixty-two to sixty-six pounds 
 per bushel ; the average yield, with fair farming, being twenty- 
 five bushels to the acre. There are much larger yields reported, 
 but there are also smaller, the latter being due to defecti%'e 
 farminor. 
 
 Potatoes and all kinds of field and garden roots grow to 
 large size and in great abundance. Tomatoes and melons ripen 
 in the open air. Hops and flax are at home on the prairies. 
 All the small fruits, such as currants, strawberries, raspberries, 
 etc., are found in abundance. But it is not yet established that 
 the country is adapted for the apple or pear. These fruits, 
 however, grow at St. Paul ; and many think they v/ill in 
 Manitoba. 
 
 For grazing and cattle raising the facilities are unbounded. 
 The prairie grasses are nutritious and of illimitable abundance. 
 Hay is cheaply and easily made. Trees are found along the 
 rivers and streams, and they will grow anywhere very rapidly, 
 if protected from prairie fires. Wood for fuel has not been 
 very expensive, and preparations have been made for bringing 
 coal into market. Of this important mineral there are vast 
 beds farther west, which have been extensively brought into use. 
 The whole of the vast territory from the boundary to the Peace 
 River, about two hundred miles wide from the Kocky Moun- 
 tains, is a coal field. 
 
 Water is found by digging wells of moderate depth on the 
 prairie. The rivers and "coolies" are also available for water 
 supply. Rain generally falls freely during the Paring, while 
 the summer and autumn are generally dry. 
 
 The drawbacks to production are occasional visitations of 
 grasshoppers, but Senator Sutherland testified before a Parlia- 
 mentary Committee that he had known immunity from them 
 for forty years. This evil is not much feared ; but still it might 
 come. 
 
 Manitoba has already communication by railway with both 
 the Atlantic and Pacifice seaboard and v/ith all parts of the 
 continent; that is to say, a railway train may start from 
 Halifax or Quebec, after connection with the ocean steamship, 
 
^.«w«*»w"- .»»^.»-v^:-•">~»«*'-« 
 
RIVER SYSTEM. 
 
 427 
 
 ■< 
 
 o 
 
 w 
 
 and run continuously on to Winnipeg and through the Rockies 
 to Vancouver on the Pacific. Numerous other railways are 
 chartered in the North-West, and it is believed will soon be 
 constructed, and a considerable extent has already been opened. 
 
 The Canadian Pacific Railway places the cereals and other 
 produce of Manitoba in connection with the ports of Montreal 
 and Quebec, as well as with the markets of the other pro- 
 vinces and with those of the United States. It is by far the 
 shortest line, with the easiest gradients, and the fewest and 
 easiest curves, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and 
 constitutes the shortest and best line for travel and commerce 
 between Great Britain and China and Japan. This line of 
 railway, passing through the fertile, instead of the desert, 
 portion of the continent of America, constitutes one of the most 
 important of the highways of the world. 
 
 The river system of Manitoba and the North-West is a 
 striking feature of the country. A steamer can leave Winnipeg 
 and proceed ma, the Saskatchewan to Edmonton, near the base 
 of the Rocky Mountains, a distance of one thousand five hun- 
 dred miles ; and steamers are now plying for a rlistnnce of more 
 than three hundred and twenty miles on th» -iniboine, an 
 affluent of the Red River, which it joins at the cit^ 't' Winnipeg'. 
 
 The Red River is navigable for steamers from Moorhful, in 
 the United States, where it is crossed by the Northern Pacific 
 Railway, to Lake Winnipeg, a distance of over four hundred 
 miles. Lake Winnipeg is about two hundred and eighty miles 
 in length, affording an important navigation. The Saskatche- 
 wan, which takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains, enters this 
 lake at the northern end, and has a steamboat navigation, as 
 above mentioned, as far as Fort Edmonton, aflfording vast com- 
 mercial facilities for those great areas of fertile lands. 
 
 The settler from older countries should be careful to adapt 
 himself to those methods which experience of the country has 
 proved to be wise, rather than try to employ in a new country 
 those practices to which he has been accustomed at home. For 
 instance, with respect to ploughing, or, as it is frequently called, 
 "breaking" the prairie, the method in Manitoba is quite different 
 from that in the Old Country. The prairie is covered with a 
 
jif^nim^' ^**' ! ' '!^* ^!^ ' ^'' ' ' ''' ^ ^ '^'" 
 
BREAKIAG THE SOD. 
 
 429 
 
 rank vegetable growth, and the question is how to subdue this. 
 It is especially desirable for the farmer who enters early in 
 the spring to put in a crop of oats on the first " breaking." It 
 is found by experience that the sod pulverizes and decomposes 
 under the influence of a growing crop (juite as effectually as 
 when simply turned and left by itself for that purpose, if not 
 more so. Large crops of oats are obtained from sowing on the 
 first breaking, and thus not only is the cost defrayed, but there 
 is a profit. It is also of great importance to a settler with 
 limited means to get this crop the first year. One mode of this 
 kind of planting is to scatter the oats on the grass and then 
 turn a thin sod over them. The grain thus buried quickly 
 finds its way through, and in a few weeks the sod is perfectly 
 rotten. Flax is a good crop to put in at the first breaking. It 
 yields well, pays well, and rapidly subdues the turned sod. 
 
 Before the prairie is broken the sod is very tough, and 
 requires great force to break it; but after it has once been 
 turned the subsequent ploughings are. very easy from the 
 friability of the soil, and gang ploughs may be used with ease. 
 On account of the great force required to break the prairie 
 in the first instance, there are many who prefer oxen to horses. 
 A pair of oxen will break an acre and a half a day, with very 
 little or no expense at all for feed. Mules have been found to 
 do very well, and they are considered well adapted for prairie 
 work. On the larger farms steam is beginning to be used. 
 
 Tourists may go by way of the Great Lakes to Thunder 
 Bay, where they will take the railway to Winnipeg ; or they 
 may take the all-rail route via Toronto or Ottawa to North 
 Bay and Winnipeg. The distance by this route is longer, but 
 it is continuous, and there is very little diflference in point of 
 time now that the railway is opened from Thunder Bay. Both 
 these routes are wholly within Canadian territory ; and the 
 settler who takes either is free from the inconvenience of all 
 customs examinations required on entering the United States, 
 or aszain on entering Manitoba from the United States. 
 
 Manitoba hardships, if they are to be called so, are nothing 
 to be compared with those of regions where the forest must be 
 hewn down before a harvest can be reaped. They are nothing 
 
 

 430 
 
 BORDER AMENITIES. 
 
 to those endured by our forefathers, when there was no railway 
 to convey in what was needed, or to carry out the surplus 
 product of the soil. 
 
 A rivalry, as keen and uncompromising as the old border 
 feuds which divided the English and the Scots into hostile 
 bodies, excites the citizens of the Canadian Province of Mani- 
 toba and the United States Territory of Dakota. Happily, 
 the present contest is bloodless. The relative merit of their 
 respective regions is the subject which is hotly and unscrupu- 
 lously contested in the columns of newspapers and the circu- 
 lars of land companies. If the allegations made on the one 
 side are believed, then Dakota is not a fit place for habita- 
 tion ; if credence be given to those on the other, then Manitoba 
 is an arid and Arctic wilderness. It is diificult for the impartial 
 spectator to side with either disputant. When Sir William 
 Hamilton discussed rival systems of philosophy, he expressed 
 the opinion that philosophers were generally right in what they 
 affirm and wrong in what they deny. This philosophical dictum 
 is applicable to the present case. So long as citizens of Manitoba 
 and Dakota eulogize their own province or territory they are 
 perfectly right, but when they proceed to disparage the neigh- 
 bouring province or territory they are glaringly wrong. For 
 many miles on either side of the boundary line, between this 
 part of the United States and Canada, the soil is identical in 
 character, with no appreciable difference in climate. 
 
 We do not hold that Manitoba is absolutely perfect ; when 
 describing it in these pages we .set forth its drawbacks as well 
 as its attractions. A country may fall far short of the ideal 
 form in dreams, and yet be a pleasant place to live in. It is 
 possible that the " summer isles of Eden, lying in dark purple 
 spheres of sea," imagined by the poet, may be less charming in 
 reality on account of the insects or venomous reptiles which 
 infest all accessible earthly paradises. 
 
 The farmers are as well pleased with the soil as with the 
 climate of Manitoba ; they declare that it is a black mould from 
 two feet to four feet in depth, and so rich as to produce, with- 
 out manure, large crops of vegetables and grain. They state 
 that water is abundant and good, that the finest hay can be 
 
 ■L j*9tffl!j^rw=r;«*.1i»'-.>H«W^W**''"* 
 
ENORMOUS CROPS. 
 
 431 
 
 procured with verj' little 
 trouble at a trifling cost; 
 that there is no lack of 
 timber; that the iniiTii- 
 murti yield of wheat is 
 nine bushels an acre in ex- 
 cess of the average yield 
 in Minnesota, and the 
 weight of each bushel is 
 1 lb. heavier ; that the 
 average yield of oats is 57 
 bushels an acre ; of barley, 
 40; of peas, 38; of rye, 60; 
 and of potatoes, " mealy 
 to the core," 318 bushels. 
 Some of the potatoes weigh 
 4|lbs. - 
 
 I now resume my de- 
 scription of the overland 
 journey. 
 
 Early in the morning of 
 the third day from Toronto 
 we look out of the window 
 ami find that the entire 
 character of the country 
 has changed. On every 
 side extends the broad, 
 level prairie, not the tree- 
 less plain I had been ex- 
 pecting — we will come to 
 that further on — but it is 
 beautifully diversified with 
 clumps of poplar trees, all 
 aflame with autumnal lires. 
 The name of the station 
 which we pass, " Beau 
 Sejour," reminds us that 
 we are passing an old 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 00 
 
 O 
 
 JTBWSSIW'W"''^''*'^* 
 
 M-MWWiJOiWSW "-.-'"EWBir' 
 
THE PRAIRIE CITY. 
 
 433 
 
 00 
 
 ■■A 
 
 (Hi 
 
 French settlenienf, to which the happy- tempered courier du 
 hois gave its pleasant designation in the early dawn of the 
 North-West exploration. Soon we cross the turbid current of 
 the appropriately named Red River, by the picturesque Princess 
 Louise Bridge, and, prompt to the minute, the train draws up 
 at the large and handsome station— rworthy of a metropolitan 
 city — of Winnipeg. 
 
 WINNIPEG. 
 
 The strongest impression made upon the tourist on his first 
 visit to Winnipeg is one of amazement that so young a city 
 should have inade such wonderful progress. Its public build- 
 ings, and many of its business blocks and private residences, 
 exhibit a solidity and magnificence of which any city in the 
 Dominion might be proud. The engraving facing page 42!) 
 gives a view of this now thriving city as it appeared in 1872, 
 while the one facing this page shows the marvellous progress 
 made in twelve years. It is already an important railway 
 centre, from which seven or eight railways issue; and it is 
 evidently destined to be one of the most important distributing 
 points for a vast extent of the most fertile country in the 
 world. Its population in 1888 is given as twenty-five thousand. 
 
 The projected Hudson Bay Railway promises to revolutionize 
 the carrying trade of the whole North- West, including Dakota 
 and Minnesota. The distance from Port Nelson, in Hudson's 
 Bay, to Liverpool is 2,966 geographical miles. From Montreal 
 to Liverpool, via Cape Race, is 2,990 miles ; or via Belle Isle, is 
 2,787 miles. From New York to Liverpool is 3,100 miles. 
 For two hundred and fifty years the Hudson Bay Company 
 has shipped its goods from Port Nelson, and lost, it is said, 
 only a single ship. Hudson's Straits, it is claimed, are open 
 from four to six months of the year, and the cooler summer 
 temperature of this northern route is very favourable to the 
 traffic of grain and cattle. From Winnipeg to Port Nelson is 
 650 miles — of this forty miles are under contract. Both the 
 Provincial and the Dominion Governments are giving sub- 
 stantial aid to the enterprise. The saving of distance from 
 Winnipeg to Liverpool, via Port Nelson, over the Montreal 
 28 
 
90 
 
 a 
 
 mm 
 
FORT GARRY 
 
 435 
 
 90 
 
 M 
 
 
 M 
 
 route is 775 miles ; over the New York route, 1,129 miles ; over 
 the Halifax route, 1,018 miles. From Rcgina the saving over 
 the Montreal route is 1,081 ; over the New York route, 1,435 
 miles ; over the Halifax route, 1,929 miles. 
 
 The broad block-paved Main Street, of Winnipeg, twice as 
 wide as the average street in Toronto, with its bustling business 
 and attractive stores, is a genuine surprise. Its magnificent new 
 City Hall surpasses in the elegance of its architecture any 
 other that I know in Canada. The new Post Office is a very 
 handsome building, and the stately Cauchon. Block and Hudson 
 Bay Company's buildings, in architecture and equipment and 
 stock, seem to the visitor to have anticipated the possible wants 
 of the community by a score of years. My genial host and 
 guide, the Rev. A. Langford, took especial pride and pleasure 
 in showing me the sights of this young prairie city. Grace 
 Church is very elegant and commodious within, but without 
 looks like a great wholesale block. It was so constructed that 
 when the permanent church, which it is proposed in time to 
 erect, is built, the old one can be with ease converted into a 
 large wholesale store. 
 
 It was with peculiar interest that J wandered over the site 
 of the historic Fort Garry — now almost entirely obliterated. 
 The old gateway and the old Governor's residence — a broad- 
 eaved, solid, comfortable-looking, building- -and a few old store- 
 houses, are all that remain of the historic old fort which 
 dominated the mid-continent, and from which issued commands 
 which were obeyed throughout the vast regions reaching to 
 the Rocky Mountains and the shores of Hudson's Bay. It 
 has also its more recent stormy memories. A gentleman 
 pointed out the scene of the dastardly murder of the patriot 
 Scott by the rebel Riel. Around the town may be seen num- 
 erous half-breeds and Indians. Of the latter I will give cuts 
 of characteristic types. Crossing the river I visited the old 
 church of St. Boniface, in or near which Riel lies buried. 
 The church, with its gleaming spire and group of ecclesiastical 
 buildings, is a conspicuous object for many miles. It called 
 to my mind the following fine poem by Whittier : 
 
 I- 
 
486 
 
 O.y THE RF.n RIVI.R. 
 
 THE IlKl) JUVKK VOYAOEUH. 
 
 "Out (iiiil in the rivor is wiiuliii;,' 
 'I'lu' linkn of itH I'lii'^', rod cliiiiii 
 Tlirongh l)eltH uf dimky piiio-limd 
 Anil gUHty loaguiiH of jilain. 
 
 Only, iit tiniL'H, a HUioko-wruatli 
 
 With tlio diifting cldud-rack joins,— 
 
 The smoke of tlio luuitiny-lodgos 
 Of till) wild AHsinil)oine.s ! 
 
 Drearily blows the north wind 
 From the land of ico and siiuw ; 
 
 The eyes tiiat look are weary, 
 And lieavy the hands that row. 
 
 And witii one foot on the water, 
 
 And one upon tiie shore, 
 The Angel of Shadow gives warning 
 
 That day shall he no more. 
 
 Is it the elang of wild-geese ? 
 
 Is it the Indian's yell. 
 That lends to the voice of the north wind 
 
 The tones of a far-off bell ? 
 
 The voyageiir smiles as he listens 
 To the sound that grows apace : 
 
 Well he knoweth the vesper ringing 
 Of the bells of St. Boniface, 
 
 The bells of the Roman Mission, 
 That call from their turrets twain, 
 
 To the boatman on the river. 
 To the hunter on the plain ! 
 
 Even so in our mortal journey 
 The bitter north winds blow ; 
 
 And thus upon life's Red River 
 Our hearts, as oarsmen, row. 
 
 And when the Angel of Shadow 
 Rests his feet on wave and shore, 
 
 And our eyes grow dim with watching, 
 And our hearts faint at the oar, 
 
 Happy is he who heareth 
 
 The signal of his release 
 In the bells of the Holy City, 
 
 The chimes of eternal peace ! " 
 
 i r [ n ii> i i!i i|i | . iiiiiii i ii m iii 
 
ST. DO MI' ACE, 
 
 437 
 
 Instead of "turrets twain," however, the present church has 
 only one. As I approachod it the funeral of a little half-breed 
 child issued from the door — a priest in his vestments, some 
 boys bearing candles, the sexton carrying a large cross and a 
 
 
 a 
 O 
 
 •s 
 
 few mourners bearing a little white coffin. The priest repeated 
 a few words over the grave and sprinkled the coffin with an 
 " aspergillum," and turned away. I followed him into the 
 sacristy. He told me he belonged to the order of Oblates, as 
 
438 
 
 A CONVENT SCENE. 
 
 did most of the priests in the North- West, an ' gave me some 
 late autumn flowers from his garden. I visitea also the old 
 red-roofed convent, where a number of nuns carry on quite an 
 extensive school for girls. It was the birthday of the Lady 
 Superior, and the novices were celebrating the day by out-of- 
 door games. It was like a scene in Normandy to see those 
 bright-eyed French girls, in their white wimples and dark 
 dresses, playing like children. They were blindfolded in turn, 
 and each, after turning around three times, tried with a stick 
 to touch a bag of candies placed upon the ground. Their merry 
 laugh seemed anything but nun-lik'^. Even the servant-maids, 
 who were digging the crop of potatoes in the garden, wore a 
 sort of conventual dress. Under the mello.r autumn light it 
 looked like a picture by Corot. One of the nuns took me 
 through the orphanage where were gathered a number of little 
 waifs — one from Amsterdam, two from Scotland, and others, 
 whites and half-breeds, from far and near. They sang for me 
 very prettily in English and French. 
 
 The Sabbath services in Grace Church were occasions 
 of special interest. My travelling companion, Dr. Bowmun 
 Stephenson, prefaced his admirable sermon in the mori ing by 
 the following appropriate remarks : 
 
 " No one," he said, " could occupy the position in which he 
 found himself wHhout having his imagination greatly excited 
 and his heart very deeply stirred. A stranger from the Old 
 World, he found himself :n the gateway of a new and great 
 land. He had come to a city which was but of yesterday, and 
 v^hich yet in its size and power and solidity made it diflicult 
 to believe that it was only a dozen years old ; but still more, as 
 he remembered that, with his face turned toward the western 
 sky, he stood here in the gateway of a new nd great region, 
 was he profoundly impressed with the great possibilities of the 
 future. Let any man think what was going to happen between 
 this place and the Rocky Mountains in the next fifty years ; 
 what great villages would rise, what homesteads would be 
 planted all over these lertile plains, what great and powerful 
 towns, what mighty cities would be built — who could say what 
 was going to be in the next half century ? What awful wrecks 
 
 i 
 
Town Kali,, \Vinmi-k(;, (p. 438). 
 
 r 
 
mmm&mi^' 
 
 > vygiW HWW W W'JW OriiwW 'W"'' 
 

 BRIGHT A UGURIES. 
 
 439 
 
 there would be — wrecks of happiness and wrecks of character ; 
 and, on the other hand, what splendid success! What wonderful 
 surprises and changes, kaleidoscopic in chai'acter, number and 
 variety, in the life of these regions must take place in the next 
 fifty years! No man could come amongst all this as a stranger, 
 and find himself in the position in which the speaker found 
 himself, without feeling himself stirred to the very depths of 
 his nature. Other questions came up to the man who believed 
 that the world was not ruled by chance, but that God was . 
 working out His glorious purposes in life. One thing was quite 
 certain : boundless plains of fertile land and almost unlimited 
 possibilities of agricultural and commercial success would not 
 secure the greatness of any people or the happiness of any 
 community. It was not the land, but the men who lived on the 
 land, that determined whether a nation was going to be great 
 or not ; and it was not the capacity for earning money, but the 
 power to live noble lives and do noble deeds, that made men 
 worthy to be accounted the sons of God, and fit to dwell on 
 the land that God has made." 
 
 One of the omens of brightest augury in this new city is that 
 the religious life in all the churches gives evidence of great 
 activity and energy. They are composed largely of the very 
 elite of the Edstern communities, whose adventurous spirit has 
 led them to seek their fortunes in the West. Everywhere one 
 meets the stalwart sons and fair daughters of Ontario and of 
 the Eastern Provinces. " Few cities of its size," says a Winni- 
 peg writer, " have such a variety of races. Here you may find 
 Jew and Icelander, Chinaman and Mennonite, Russian and 
 African, German, Italian, French, Spaniard, Norwegian, Dane, 
 Irish, Scotch, Welsh, English, American, and a host of different 
 sorts and kinds from the East." In the evening, after preaching, 
 I looked in at a Scandinavian service, where three hundred 
 Icelanders, representing a community of one thousand five 
 hundred of their kinsfolk, were worshipping God in their native 
 tongue. 
 
 The breadth of view and enlightened statesmanship of the 
 leaders of public opinion is seen in the collegiate system of 
 the country, with its central examining university, and its 
 
 '-i 
 
PRIMITIVE CART. 
 
 441 
 
 Presbyterian, Anglican and Roman Catholic teaching colleges, 
 soon to be reinforced by a vigorous Methodist college. 
 
 A few miles north of Winnipeg is the old Scotch settlement 
 of Kildonan, the headquarters of the loyalists during the first 
 Riel Rebellion, and one of the most flourishing, well cultured, 
 happy and contented settlements to be found anywhere. 
 
 Our engraving represents one of the typical Red River carts 
 still in use among the half-breeds throughout the North-West. 
 It is peculiar in being made entirely of wood. There is neither 
 nail nor metal tire. The thing creaks horribly, and when a 
 
 Red River Caet. 
 
 hundred of them or more were out for the fall hunt, the groaning 
 of the caravan was something appalling. The harness, too, is 
 entirely home-made and exceedingly primitive. By means of 
 these carts much of the freighting to the scattered forts of the 
 North-West was done. It used to take ninety days for a 
 brigade to go from the Red River to Fort Edmonton. The 
 adhesive character of Winnipeg mud is indicated, for these 
 "antediluvian" carts are still occasionally seen in the prairie 
 capital. It is a tribute to the strength of the cart that the 
 viscous material does not drag it to pieces. The new arrivals 
 
442 
 
 PRAIRIE ASPECTS. 
 
 can always be known by the manner in which they slip and 
 slide about on the muddy street crossings. 
 
 THE PRAIRIES. 
 
 The great material element in the prosperity of this young 
 city is the fertile prairie stretching far and wide around it on 
 every side. The deep black loam, the vast unfenced fields, the 
 mile-long furrows, stretching straight as an arrow in unbroken 
 lines, the huge stacks of grain — I counted twenty in a single 
 view near Brandon — these are the guarantees of the future 
 prosperity of the prairie province, that no collapsed boom can 
 destroy. A pleasant feature in this prairie region was the 
 fringe of poplar trees skirting the banks of the streams — all 
 aflame in their autumnal foliage, tind suggestive of blazing 
 hearths on the long winter nights. Till the discovery of coal 
 in the North-West, the subject of winter fuel was one of the 
 most serious questions. But the exhaustless supplies of good 
 coal at Lethbridge and elsewhere have proved the solution of 
 the problem. 
 
 The railway stations through the Province of Manitoba 
 give evidence of life and energy. At many of them are two, 
 three, or even four, capacious steam elevators, representing rival 
 wheat-purchasing companies, and frequently a number of mills. 
 At Carberry my genial friend, the Rev. J. W. Bell, introduced 
 me to the proprietors of several well-filled general stores. 
 While not many houses were in sight, he said the country 
 back from the railway had many magnificent farms. Though 
 the country is apparently as level as a billiard table, there is 
 really an ascent of one hundred feet from Winnipeg to Portage 
 la Prairie. Beyond Poplar Point almost continuous farms 
 appear. The line of trees not far away on the south marks the 
 course of the Assiniboine River, which the railway follows for 
 one hundred and thirty miles. 
 
 Portage la Prairie and Brandon, situated respectively sixty and 
 one hundred and thirty miles west of Winnipeg, are evidently 
 destined to be important centres of local distribution. Un- 
 fortunately they are now burdened with municipal debts, 
 incurred during the "boom;" but the public buildings and 
 
and 
 
444 
 
 PRAIRIE TOWNS. 
 
 schools, etc., are elements of prosperity that will long survive 
 the collapse of the boom. Portage la Prairie, with a population 
 of three thousand, on the Assiniboine River, is the market 
 town of a rich and populous province. The Manitoba and 
 North-Western Railway extends from here one hundred and 
 eighty miles north-west, towards Prince Albert, with branches 
 to Rapid City and Shell River. 
 
 Between Portage la Prairie and Brandon, stations succeed 
 one another at intervals of five or eight miles, and many of 
 
 Brandon, Man. 
 
 «?>>. 
 
 Tr^^ 
 
 them are surrounded by bright and busy towns. The Brandon 
 Hills are seen towards the south-west. Four miles beyond 
 Chater the Assiniboine is crossed by an iron bridge and Brandon 
 is reached. It is tbe largest grain market in Manitoba, and the 
 distributing market for an extensive and well-settled country. 
 The town is beautifully situated on high ground, and, although 
 only six years old, has well-made streets and, many substantial 
 buildings, with a population of four thousand five hundred. 
 A railway is being built north-westward toward the Saskatche- 
 wan country. Our engraving of Brandon will give a good idea 
 
 1«S'*««««WP«R*W>WW!W''-T!>-'^ 
 
A GRASSY SEA. 
 
 445 
 
 ot* a " live " railway town, with its elevators, side tracks, etc. 
 Beyond Brandon the railway draws away from the Assiniboine 
 River and rising from its valley to a "rolling" or unduhvting 
 prairie, well occupied by prosperous fanners, as the thriving 
 villages at frequent intervals bear evidence. 
 
 There is a feeling of isolation in traversing the boundless 
 prairie — not absolutely level, but heaving in vast undulations, 
 like the ground-swell of the sea. The settlements are widely 
 scattered, and the settlers' wooden or sod-covered houses look 
 so lonely under the vastness of the brooding sky and of the 
 treeless plain. 
 
 The great natural features of this magnificent territory are 
 often of surpassing beauty, and sometimes of grand sublimity. 
 The prairies spreading like a shoreless ocean, and starred with 
 vari-coloured flowers — flashing dew-crowned in the rosy light 
 of dawn, sleeping beneath the fervid blaze of noon, or crimson- 
 dyed in the ruddy glow of sunset — are exquisitely beautiful. 
 At night, when the rolling waves of grass gleam in the pallid 
 moonlight, like foam-creasts on the sea, or when the far horizon 
 flares with lurid flames, and dun-rolling smoke-clouds mount 
 the sky, they become sublime. So pure and dry and bracing 
 is the atmosphere, that the range of vision is vastly increased, 
 all the senses seem exalted, and new life is poured through 
 every vein. 
 
 As we sweep on and on, all day long and all night, and all 
 next day and half the night, a sense of the vastness of this 
 great prairie region — like the vastness of the sea — grows upon 
 one with overwhelming force. The following lines of Bryant's 
 well describe some of the associations of a first view of the 
 prairies : — 
 
 "These are the givrdens of the Desert, these 
 The unshorn fiekls, boundless and beautiful, 
 For which the speech of England has no name— 
 The Prairies. I behold them for the first, 
 And my heart swells, while the dilated sight 
 Takes in the encircling vastness. Lo ! they lie 
 In airy undulations, far away, 
 As if the ocean, in his gentlest swell, 
 Stood still, with all his rounded billows fixed 
 
446 
 
 BRYANT ON THE PRAIRIES. 
 
 And motionless forovor. — Motionless ? — • 
 
 No— they are all unuliainod again. The clouda 
 
 Sweep over witli their shadows, and, beneath, 
 
 The surface rolls and Huctuates to the eye. 
 
 Man hath no part in all this glorinua work : 
 
 The hand that built the firmament hath heaved 
 
 And smoothed these verdant swells, and sown their slopes 
 
 With lierbage. . . . The groat heavens 
 
 Seem to stoop down upon the scene in love, — 
 
 A nearer vault, and of a tenderer blue. 
 
 Than that which bonds above the eastern hills. . . , 
 
 In these plains the bison feeds no more, where onco he shook 
 
 The earth with thundering steps — yet here I meet 
 
 His ancient footprints stamped beside the pool. 
 
 Still this great solitude is quick with life. 
 
 Myriads of insects gaudy, as the flowers 
 
 They flutter over, gentle quadrupeds, 
 
 And birds, that scarce have learned the fear of man, 
 
 Are here, and sliding reptiles of the ground, 
 
 Startlingly beautiful. . . . The bee, 
 
 A more adventurous colonist than man. 
 
 With whom he came across the eastern deep. 
 
 Fills the savannas with his murmurings, 
 
 And hides his sweets, as in the golden age, 
 
 Within the hollow oak. I listen long 
 
 To his domestic hum, and think I hear 
 
 The sound of that advancing multitude 
 
 Which soon shall till these deserts. From the ground 
 
 Comes up the laugh of children, the soft voice 
 
 Of maidens, and the sweet and solemn hymn 
 
 Of Sabbath worshippers. The low of herds 
 
 Bends with the rustling of the heavy grain 
 
 Over the dark-brown furrows. All at once 
 
 A fresher wind sweeps by, and breaks my dream, 
 
 And I am in the wilderness alone. " 
 
 it,i»fHx'W»^V^"''^* 
 
DELL FARM. 
 
 147 
 
 THE I^OETH-WEST TERRITORY. 
 
 OUTSIDE of the Province of Manitoba extends the North- 
 West Territory of Canada. It is bounded on the south 
 by the 49th parallel, which divides it from the United States. 
 It follows this line west to the base of the Rocky Mountains, 
 which it touches at very nearly the 111th degree of west longi- 
 tude, and takes a north-west trend to the base of the Rocky 
 Mountains, until it comes in contact with the territory of 
 Alaska, and proceeds thence due north to the Arctic Ocean. 
 On the eastern side it is bounded by the Province of Mani- 
 toba. 
 
 This vast region has been provisionally organized by the 
 Dominion Government for purposes of administration into four 
 districts, named respectively Assiniboia, Saskatchewan, Alberta 
 and Athabasca. I condense from the Guide Book to the 
 Dominion, issued by the Department of Agriculture, the follow- 
 ing information about these great territorial divisions. 
 
 The district of Assiniboia comprises an area of about ninety- 
 five thousand square miles, and lies immediately west of Mani- 
 toba. The valley of the QuAppelle is in Assiniboia. The 
 view over the broad Qu'Appelle valley, with its winding river, 
 is one of the finest in the North- West ; comfortable farmsteads, 
 with huge stacks of grain, greet the eye for many a mile. 
 This district has been selected for the large farming experiment 
 known as the " Bell Farm." The experiment embraces a 
 scheme for a wheat-farm of a hundred square miles or sixty- 
 four thousand acyres. From Indian Head, near the centre of 
 the farm, the headquarters buildings may be seen on the right. 
 The neat square cottages of the farm labourers dot the plain as 
 far as the eye can reach. The furrows on this farm are usually 
 ploughed four miles long, and to plough one furrow outward 
 and another returning is a half day's work for a man and team. 
 
! 
 
 rf 
 
MJLITAKV I'AR.MIXC. 
 
 440 
 
 y ()r{,'anizati<)n, 
 
 Cm 
 
 a. 
 
 a 
 
 H 
 
 "The work is done with 
 ploughing by brigades and 
 
 Many towns and villages have sprung up with surprising, 
 rapidity on the line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, in tlio 
 
 almost niilitar 
 reaping by divisions 
 
 district of Assiniboia. Among these may be mentioned Broad- 
 view, Indian Head, Qu'Appelle, Regina (the capital), Moose Jaw, 
 Swift Current and Medicine Hat. 
 
 The district of Alberta comprises an area of about one hundred 
 thousand square miles, and lies between Assiniboia and the 
 
 <2Q 
 
r/1 
 
ALBERTA. 
 
 451 
 
 Province of British Columbia at the base of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. A great portion of this district being immediately under 
 the mountains, has scenery of magnificent beauty. Its cold, 
 clear streams and rich and luxuriant grasses make it a very 
 paradise for cattle. Numerous ranches have been stn-rted, and 
 the number of neat cattle on these was, during the summer of 
 188f), close on one hundred thousand, bef^wecn thirty thousand 
 and forty thousand sheep, and about ten thousand horses. 
 Experience has already proved that with good management the 
 cattle thrive well :n the winter, the percentage of loss being 
 much less than that estimated for when these ranches were 
 undertaken. 
 
 With respect to those portions of these North-West plains of 
 Canada in which alkali is found. Prof. Macoun declares that 
 these will u^aome the most valuable of the wheat lands as 
 settlement progresses, the alkali being converted into a valuable 
 fertilizer by the admixture of barn-yard manure. The profes- 
 sor further contends that these alkaline plains will become the 
 great wheat fields of the American continent long after the 
 now fertile prairit.^ and fields to the east shall have become 
 exhausted. 
 
 It is not, however, only in agricultural resources that the 
 district of Alberta is rich. There are in it the greatest extent 
 of coal-fields known in the world. Large petroleum deposits 
 are known to exist. Im.nense supplies of timber are also 
 among the riches of Alberta. These are found in such positions 
 M to be easily workable in the valleys along the numerous 
 streams flowing thruugh the foot-hills of the Rocky Mountains 
 into tlie great Saskatchewan. It is needless to .say that 
 resources such as these in North America, now that they are 
 pierced by the Canadian Transcontinental Railway, will not 
 remain long without development. 
 
 ('algary is the chief town in Alberta. It is beautifully 
 situated at the confluence of the Bow and the Klbow river.s. It 
 is very thriving, and already does a large business. It com- 
 mands a beautiful view of the Rocky Mountains, and i.s 
 undoubtedly destined to become a large city. 
 
 The district ot Saskatchewan co:iipri.ses about one hundred 
 
; If 
 
ATHABASCA. 
 
 453 
 
 and fourteen thousand square miles. It lies north of Manitoba. 
 This district, owing to the line of the Canadian Pacific Railway 
 being taken south through the districts of Assiniboia and 
 Alberta, has, of cour.se, not .so rapidly settled as these. It yet, 
 however, contains the flourishing .settlements of Prince Albert, 
 Battleford, and others. It is a region of immense resources, 
 the two branches of the great river Saskatchewan passing 
 through a large part of it. It has several projected railway 
 lines, which, it is expected, will be immediately proceeded with. 
 
 The district of Athabasca comprises an area of about one 
 hundred and twenty-two thousand square miles. It lies north 
 of the district of Alberta, and includes the immense and fertile 
 valley of ttie Peace River, whoso extent and fertility are as yet 
 only partially known. This district has also vast resources, 
 but as yet, from its northern position, is out of the range of 
 immediate settlement. 
 
 This vast territory contains great lakes and great rivers. 
 The Mackenzie is one of the largest rivers in the world, and 
 empties into the Arctic Oc.an. Its estimated length is two 
 thousand five hundred miles, including the Slave River, which 
 is a part of its system. This river is generally navigable, 
 except at the base of the Rocky Mountains, where it is inter- 
 rupted by cascades. The country through which it runs is rich 
 in mineral deposits, including coal. The Peace, another great 
 river of the North-West, has an estimated course of one thou- 
 sand one hundred miles, draining a country containing very 
 great agricultural ami mineral resources. 
 
 Another great river which takes its rise in the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, is the Saskatchewan, which empties into Lake Winnipeg, 
 having a total length of about one thousand five hundred miles. 
 The river is navigable from the lake to Fort Edmonton, and it 
 drains an immense agricultural region. There are numerous 
 other rivers in this territory, such as the Nelson, the Churchill, 
 the Winnipeg and the Assiniboine. 
 
 The lakes are the Great Bear Lake, the Great Slave Lake, 
 the Athabasca, liake Winnijieg, and others. The Great Bear 
 Lake contains an area of fourteen thousand square miles. The 
 Great Slave Lake has a length, from east to west, of three 
 
PRAIRIE PLATEAUX. 
 
 hundred miles ; its greatest breadth being fifty miles. The 
 Athabasca Lake has a length of two hundred and thirty miles; 
 averaging fourteen miles in width, having, however, a very 
 much greater width in some places. Lake Winnipeg has a 
 length of two hundred and eighty miles, with a breadth of 
 fifty-fi /e miles. There are numerous other lakes of large size 
 in the North-West. 
 
 The Nelson River drains the waters of Lake Winnipeg into 
 Hudson's Bay; and the extent of its discharge may be imagined 
 
 _ from the fact that this lake 
 receives the waters of the 
 Red River of the north, as 
 well as of the River Winni- 
 peg, the Saskatchewan, and 
 others. 
 
 A remarkable feature of 
 this great extent of territory 
 is its division along lines run- 
 ning generally north-west 
 and south-east, into three dis- 
 tinct prairie steppes, or pla- 
 teaux, as they are generally 
 called. The first of these is 
 known as the Red River 
 Valley and Lake Winnipeg 
 plateau. The width of the 
 boundary line is about fifty- 
 two miles, and the avei'age 
 height about eight hundred 
 feet above the sea. At the boundary line it is about one 
 thousand feet. The first plateau lies entirely within the 
 Province of Manitoba, and is estimated to contain about seven 
 thousand square miles of the best wheat-growing land on the 
 continent, or in the world. 
 
 The second plateau or steppe has an altitude of one thousand 
 six hundred feet, having a width of about tw^o hundred and 
 fifty miles on the national boundary line, and an area of about 
 one hundred and five thousand square miles. The rich, undu- 
 
 Indian Meoioimk Mam. 
 
 i?J?/^iMA«llWJH 
 
 "WWUK i 'lg i BI- i iiin i " ■■ 
 
LVDIAN TYPES. 
 
 455 
 
 luting, 
 
 park-like country lies in this region. This section is 
 
 .specially favourable for settle- 
 ment, and includes the Assini- 
 boine and Qu'Appclle districts. 
 The third plateau or .steppe 
 begins on the boundary line 
 at the 104th n.eridian, where 
 it has an elevation of about 
 two thousand feet, and ex- 
 tends west for four hundred 
 and sixty five miles to the 
 foot of the Rocky Mountains, 
 where it has an altitude of 
 about four thousand two hun- 
 dred feet, making an average 
 height above the .sea of about 
 three thou.sand feet. Gener- 
 ally spea ing, the fir.st two 
 steppes are those which are 
 
 AssiNiBoiNE Indian. 
 
 mo.st favourable for agricul- 
 ture, and the third for graz- 
 ing. Settlement is proceeding 
 in the first two at a very 
 rapid rate ; and in the third 
 plateau numerous and pros- 
 pei'ous cattle ranches have 
 been established. 
 
 The prairie section of the 
 Canadian North -West, ex- 
 tendini; westward from the 
 neighbourhood of Winnipeg 
 to the base of the Rocky 
 Mountains, a distance of over 
 ei'dit hundred miles contains 
 large tracts of the finest agri- 
 cultural lands in the world. 
 
 IlALF-BRKKr) 
 
 The prairie is gemrally rolling or undulating, with large 
 
456 
 
 INDIAN TYPES. 
 
 SyuANv, WITH Pai'oosi:, 
 
 clunips of woods and lines of 
 forests here and there. It 
 abounds with lakes, lakelets 
 and running streams, in the 
 neighbourhood of which the 
 scenery has been described as 
 the finest park scenerj' in the 
 world. 
 
 The richness of the soil, and 
 the salubrity of the climate, 
 which is peculiarly adapted to 
 the cultivation of grain and 
 raising of stock, will assuredly 
 cause this vast tract of country 
 to become, in the near future, 
 the home of millions of hap]>y 
 and prosperous people. 
 
 There is a generally accepted 
 
 theory that the great fertility of 
 the land in the North-West is 
 <lue genenilhr to three causes : — 
 First, tlie droppings of birds and 
 animals on the jjlains; sect>nd. the 
 ashes left by the annual prairie 
 "Hres; and third, the constant ac- 
 cunnilation of decayed vegetable 
 matter, and the fertilizing agency 
 of the bones of the innumerable 
 denizens of these vast j)lains; and 
 when the fact is considered that 
 great herds ol bufiiiln antl other 
 game btivo roam* I tor generations 
 ov(>r tl>e prairies ; that wild fowl 
 are found in vast numbers every- 
 where ; and tlml prairie fires have 
 raged yearly for generations in the Ixman Lad. 
 
 North- W«st, there is doubtless sound reason for this theory. 
 
WATER surrLV. 
 
 457 
 
 Whatever may liave been the cause of the extreme richness 
 of the land, however, there is one feature whicli is of gi-eat 
 importance, and that is the depth of <];ood soil in the prairie 
 country. It has been frecpiently stated that the depth of black 
 loam in the North- West will ranj^e from one to four feet, and, 
 in some instances, even deeper, but the statement, though 
 received with a great deal of doubt, has, in many cases, been 
 verified. 
 
 A supply of good water is an indispensable necessity to the 
 
 A CAMriNf) SCENK 1\ TUK NoKTH- \V KST. 
 
 farmer, not only for household purposes, but also for stock. 
 The Canadian North-West has not only numerous rivers and 
 cx'eeks, but also a very large number of lakes and lakelets 
 throughout the whole country, and it has now been ascertained 
 definitely that i^ood water can be obtained almost anywhere 
 by means of wells ; in addition to which there are numerous, 
 cleai'-r'nining, never-failing springs to be found. There need, 
 therefore, be no apprehension of serious drought. 
 
 The NortJi-West is destined to become one of the finest 
 stock-raising countries i.i the world. Its boundless prairie.s, 
 
453 
 
 RANCHING. 
 
 covered with luxuriant grasses — the usual yield of which, when 
 cut into hay, being from three to four tons per acre — and the 
 cool nights for which Manitoba is famous, are most beneficial 
 features in regard to stock ; and the remarkable dryness and 
 healthfulness of the winter tend to make cattle fat an \ well- 
 conditioned. The easy access to fine water, which exists in 
 nearly every part of the Province, is another advantage in 
 stock-raising. The abundance of hay everywhere makes it an 
 easy matter for farm.ers to winter their stock ; and, in addition, 
 there is, and always will be, a ready home market for beef. 
 
 The cattle ranches established at the eastern base of the Rocky 
 Mountains have proved wonderfully successful, sohie of them 
 having as many as twenty thousand head of stock. Cattle 
 winter well in the Canadian North-West, and, if properly 
 stabled at night and carefully attended to, will come out fat in 
 the spring. 
 
 Apiculture is successfully carried on in the North-West, as 
 bees require a clear, dry atmosphere, and a rich harvest of 
 flowers; if the air is damp, or the weather cloudy, they will not 
 work so well. Another reason why they work less in a warm 
 climate is, that the honey gathered remains fluid for sealing a 
 longer time, and, if gathered faster, then it thickens, it sours 
 and spoils. The clear, bright skies, dry air, and rich flora of 
 the North-West are well adapted to the bee culture. 
 
 New centres of trade are continually springing into existence 
 wherever settlements tnke place, and these contain go erally one 
 or more stores where farmers can find a ready market for their 
 prcxluce. The stations along the line of the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway arc not more than eight or ten miles apart, and as it is 
 the policy of the Company to facilitate the erection of elevators 
 for the storage of wheat, etc., farmers will be enabled to dispose 
 of their grain at good prices almost at their doors. The very 
 large influx of people, and the prosecution of railways and 
 public works will, however, cause a great home demand for 
 some years, and for a time limit the quantity for expoit. 
 
 This will be as convenient a place as any to give an account 
 of the fur trade of the great North-West, and a sketch of 
 mission work among the Indian tribes. 
 
 !■! 
 
 pmm 
 
TRAPPERS. 
 
 459 
 
 TIIE FUR TRADE. 
 
 Few of the da'nty dames of London or Paris, or oven of 
 Toronto or Montreal, have any conception of tiie vicissitudes 
 of peril and hardship encoiintercMl in procurinjr the costly 
 ermines and sables in which they defy the winter's cold. 
 About the month of August, the Indians of the great North- 
 West procure a supply of pork, flour and ammunition, gener- 
 ally on trust, at the Hudson's Bay posts, and thread their way 
 up the lonely rivers and over many a portage, far into the 
 
 »ns'/-* 
 
 Half-Breed and "Huskie" Duo. 
 
 interior. There they build their bark lodges, generally each 
 family li}' itself, or sometinu's a single individual alone, scores 
 of miles from his nearest neighbour. They carry a supply of 
 steel traps, which they carefully set and bait, concealing all 
 appearance of design. The hunter makes the round of his 
 traps, often many miles apart, returning to the camp, as by an 
 unerring instinct, through the pathless wilderness. The skins, 
 which are generally those of the otter, beaver, marttn, mink 
 and sable, and occasionally of an arctic fox or bear, are stretched 
 
460 
 
 A LOi\EL Y LIFE. 
 
 and dried in tho smoke of the wigwams. The trappers live 
 chiefly on rabbits, muskrats, fish, and sometimes on cariboo, 
 which they hunt on snow-shoes. The loneliness of such a life 
 
 is appalling. On every side stretches for hundreds of leagues 
 the forest primeval. 
 
 Yet to mcj,ny there is a fascination in these solitudes. Lord 
 
 ^ssss^siammm 
 
AN ODD ASSO/iTMEi'^T. 
 
 461 
 
 Milton and Dr. Cheadle spent the winter of 1863-64 in a 
 trapper's cuuip witii great apparent enjoyment. Their pro- 
 visions beconiintf exhausted, they had to send six hiuuh-ed 
 miles to Fort Garry, by a dog team, for four bags of flour and a 
 few pounds of tea. The lonely trapper, however, must depend 
 on his own resources. In the spring he returns to the trading- 
 posts, .shooting the rapids of the swollen streams, frec^uently 
 with bales of furs worth several hundreds of dollars. A sable 
 skin which may be held in the folded hand is worth in the 
 markets of Europe $30 or S35, or of the fine.st quality S75. 
 The Indians of the interior are models of honesty. They will 
 
 
 ' • 
 
 ' ' -'.-' ■ ;? 
 
 
 : \- ' 
 
 . .'" - '■ - - . t 
 
 - 
 
 ._.: -7-- 
 
 ' '" ■ :'- - ■' "^iP^^g!fe:vj^'i^T^^.:^sg 
 
 — ,- ~ — ^•" 
 
 — "."-_ 
 
 Hudson's Bay Post. 
 
 not trespass on each other's streams or hunting-grounds, and 
 always punctually repay the debt they have incurred at the 
 trading-post. A Hudson's Bay store contains a miscellaneous 
 assortment of goods, comprising such divei'se articles as snow- 
 shoes and cheap jewellery, canned fruit and blankets, gun- 
 powder and tobacco, fish-hooks and scalping-knives, vermilion 
 for war-paint, f, ^ ■ leads for embroidery. Thither come the 
 plumed and paiited -ons of the forest to barter their peltries 
 for the knives ai.'l guns of Sheffield and Birmingham, the gay 
 fabrics of Manche&iHi- and Leeds, and other luxuries of savage 
 life, and to smoke the pipe of peace with their white allies. 
 Many thousand dollars' worth of valuable furs are often collected 
 at these posts. They are generally deposited in a huge log 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 /. 
 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 1.25 
 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.6 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 33 W^ST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SM 
 
 (716) S72-4S03 
 
 

AN APT MOTTO. 
 
 463 
 
 
 
 m 
 1,1 
 
 u 
 H 
 
 storehouse, and defended by a stockade, sometimes loopholed 
 for musketry, or mounting a few small cannon. On the flag- 
 staff is generally displayed the flag of the Company with the 
 strange motto, "Pro pelle cittern," — Skin for skin. These posts 
 are sparsely scattered over this vast territoi'y. They are like 
 oases in the wilderness, generally having a patch of cultivated 
 ground, a garden of European plants and flowers, and all the 
 material comforts of civilization. Their social isolation is the 
 most objectionable feature. At one which I visited the chief 
 factor had just sent one hundred and thirty miles in an open 
 boat for the nearest physician. Yet many of the factors are 
 well educated men, who have changed the busydin of Glasgow 
 or Edinburgh for the solitude of these far-off" posts. And for 
 love's sweet sake, refined and well-born women will abandon 
 the luxuries of civilization to share the loneliness of the 
 wilderness with their bosom's lord. One of the Hudson's Bay 
 factors on Rupert's River wooed and won a fair Canadian girl, 
 and took her back in triumph to his home. She was carried 
 like an Indian princess over the portages and through the 
 forests in a canoe, supported by cushions, wrapped in 'richest 
 furs, and attended ever by a love that would not 
 
 " Betoem the winds of heaven 
 Visit her face too roughly." 
 
 There, in the heart of the wilderness, she kept her state and 
 wore her jewels as if a queen of society. In still more remote 
 regions temporary hunting-camps, like that shown in cut, are 
 established. 
 
 Almost the sole method of exploring the great northern fur 
 regions is by means of the bark canoe in summer, or the dog- 
 sledge or on snow-shoes in winter. 
 
 CANOE LIFE. 
 
 "The canoe," says Mr. H. M. Robinson, " is part of the savage. 
 After generations of use, it has grown into the eoonomy of his 
 life. What the horse is to the Arab, the camel to the desert 
 traveller, or the dog to the Esquimaux, the birch-bark canoe is 
 to the Indian. The forests along the river shores yield all the 
 
CANOE LIFE. 
 
 465 
 
 materials requisite for its construction; cedar for its ribs; birch- 
 bark for its outer covering ; the thews of the juniper to sew 
 together the separate pieces; red pine to give resin for the 
 seams and crevices. 
 
 •• 'All the forest life is in it — 
 All its mystery and magic, 
 All the lightness of the birch-troo, 
 All the toughness of the cedar, 
 All the larch's supple sinews, 
 And it floated on the river 
 Like a yellow leaf in autumn, 
 Like a yellow water lily.' 
 
 Makino a Portaue. 
 
 " During the summer season the canoe is the home of the red 
 man. It is not only a boat, but a house ; he turns it over him 
 as a protection when he camps; he carries it long distances 
 overland from lake to lake. Frail beyond words, yet he loads 
 it down to the water's edge. In it he steers boldly out into the 
 broadest lake, or paddles through wood and swamp and reedy 
 shallow. Sitting in it he gathers his harvest of wild rice, or 
 catches fish, or steals upon his game ; dashes down the wildest 
 
 9(\ 
 
466 
 
 CANOE LIFE. 
 
 rapid, braves the foaming torrent, or lies like a wild bird on 
 
 the placid waters. While the trees are green, while the waters 
 
 dance and sparkle, and the wild duck dwells in the sedgy 
 
 ponds, the birch-bark canoe is the red man's home. 
 
 " And how well he knows the moods of the river ! To guide 
 
 his canoe through some whirling eddy, to shoot some roaring 
 
 waterfall, to launch it by the edge of some (iercely-rushing 
 
 torrent, or dash down a foaming rapid, is to be a brave and 
 
 skilful Indian. The man who does all this and does it well 
 
 > 
 
 must possess a rapidity of glance, a power in the sweep of his 
 
 Tracking a Canoe. 
 
 paddle, and a quiet consciousness of skill, not obtained save by 
 long years of practice. 
 
 " An exceedingly light and graceful craft is the birch-bark 
 canoe ; a type of speed and beauty. So light that one man can 
 easily carry it on his shoulders overland where a waterfall 
 obstructs his progress ; and as it only sinks five or six inches 
 in the water, few places are too shallow to float it. In this 
 frail bark, which measures anywhere from twelve to forty feet 
 long, and from two to five feet broad in the middle, the Indian 
 and his family travel over the innumerable lakes and rivers, 
 and the fur-hunters pursue their lonely calling. 
 
TRACKING. 
 
 467 
 
 " Frequently the ascent of the streams is not made without 
 mishap. Sometimes the canoe runs against a stone, and tears 
 a small hole in the bottom. This obliges the voyagers to put 
 ashore immediately and repair the damage. They do it swiftly 
 and with admirable dexterity. Into the hole is fitted a piece 
 of bark ; the fibrous roots of the pine tree sew it in its place, 
 and the place pitched so as to be water-tight, all within an hour. 
 Again, the current is too strong to admit of the use of paddles, 
 and recourse is had to poling, if the stream be shallow, or 
 tracking if the depth of water forbid the use of poles. The 
 latter is an extremely toilsome process, and detracts much from 
 
 PoRTAoi Landing. 
 
 the romance of canoe-life in the wilderness. Tracking, as it is 
 called, is dreadfully harassing work. Half the crew go ashore 
 and drag the boat slowly along while the other half go asleep- 
 After an hour's walk the others take their turn, and so on, 
 alternately, during the entire day. 
 
 " But if the rushing or breasting up a rapid is exciting, the 
 operation of shooting them in a birch-bark canoe is doubly so. 
 True, all the perpendicular falls have to be " portaged," and in 
 a day's journey of forty miles, from twelve to fifteen portages 
 have to be made. But the rapids are as smooth water to the 
 hardy voyagers, who, in anything less than a perpendicular 
 
468 
 
 SHOOTING A RAPID. 
 
 fall, seldom lift the canoe from the water. As the frail birch- 
 bark nears the rapid from above, all is quiet. The mosl skilful 
 voyager sits on his heels in the bow of the canoe, the next best 
 oarsman similarly placed in the stern. The hand of the bows- 
 man becomes a living intelligence as, extended behind him, it 
 motions the steersman where to turn the craft. The latter 
 never takes his eye off that hand for an instant. Its varied 
 expression becomes the life of the canoe. 
 
 " The bowsman peers straight ahead with a g;lance like that 
 
 K NoRTHBRN River. 
 
 of an eagle. The canoe, seeming like a cocklershell in its 
 frailty, silently approaches the rim where the waters di-sappear 
 from view. On the very edge of the slope the bowsman 
 suddenly stands up, and bending forward his head, peers 
 eagerly down the eddying rush, then falls upon his knees 
 again. Without turning his head for an instant, the sentient 
 hand behind him signals its warning to the steersman. Now 
 there is no time for thought ; no eye is quick enough to take 
 in the rushing scene. There are strange currents, unexpected 
 whirls, and backward eddies and rocks — rocks rough and 
 
THE SELVEDGE OF CIVILIZATION, 
 
 469 
 
 jagged, smooth, slippery, and polished — and through all this 
 the canoe glances like an arrow, dips like a wild bird down the 
 wing of the storm. All this time not a word is spoken ; but 
 every now and again there is a quick twist of the bow paddle 
 to edge far off some rock, to put her full through some boiling 
 billow, to hold her steady down the slope of some thundering 
 chute. 
 
 " But the old canoe-life of the Fur Land is rapidly passing 
 away. In many a once well-beaten pathway, naught save 
 narrow trails over the portages, and rough wooden crosses over 
 the graves of travellers who perished by the way, remains to 
 mark the roll of the passing years." 
 
 
 Fishing Throdoh the Ioe, Lake Winnipeg. 
 
 The Indians near the frontier settlements, who hang upon 
 the skirts of civilization, are not favourable specimens of their 
 race. They acquire the white man's vices rather than his 
 virtues. They are a squalid, miserable set ; their bark wig- 
 wams are filthy, comfortless structures. The older women are 
 horribly withered, bleared, and smoke-dried creatures, extremely 
 suggestive of the witches in " Macbeth." The younger squaws 
 are very fond of supplementing their savage costume with gay 
 ribbons, beads, and other civilized finery; and in one wigwam 
 I saw a crinoline skirt hanging up. The men are often idle, 
 hulking fellows. They keep a great number of dogs — vile curs 
 of low degree; and in one camp which I visited was an exceed- 
 
470 
 
 MISSIONS. 
 
 ingly tame raven. Neither sex commonly wears any head- 
 dress in summer, save the coarse hair hanging in a tangled 
 mass over the eyes. The food supply is often extremely pre- 
 carious. Anything more wretched than the dependence for 
 subsistence on the tish caught through the ice on the lakes and 
 streams in winter is hard to conceive. In the days when 
 buffalo were plenty the great fall hunt was a time of reckless 
 feasting on buffalo's tongue. The tenderest portions were dried 
 in the air and often manufactured into pemmican, that is, the 
 dried flesh was broken into fine pieces and pressed into a skin 
 bag, and over it was poured melted tallow. This extremely 
 strong and wholesome food was long a staple at all the Hudson 
 Bay Company forts. The group of Indians in our cut seem to 
 be sitting for their photographs in a very stolid manner. 
 
 INDIAN MISSIONS. 
 
 In the far interior, where the Indians are removed from the 
 baleful influence of the white man's fire-water, a finer type 
 exists. The Hudson's Bay Company has always sedulously 
 excluded that bane of the red race wherever their jurisdiction 
 extends. Among the prot^gt^s of the Company, therefore, 
 Christian missions have had their greatest successes, although 
 their nomad life almost negatives every attempt to civilize 
 them. Near many of the posts is a Jesuit mission, frequently 
 a heritage from the times of French supremacy. There are 
 a number of Church of England missions, generally near the 
 settlements, and some very successful Presbyterian missions. 
 The Indian missions of the Methodist Church are, however, 
 more numerous than those of any other body, and have been 
 attended with very great success. The have in the Dominion, 
 chiefly in Hudson's Bay Territory, forty-seven Indian missions, 
 4,437 communicants, and probably 14,000 members of congre- 
 gation. Many of these, once pagan savages, now adorn with 
 their lives their profession of the gospel. 
 
 There are no more arduous mission-fields in the world than 
 those among the native tribes of the great North- West. The 
 devoted servant of the Cross goes forth to a region beyond the 
 pale of civilization. He often suffers privation of the very 
 
472 
 
 HEROIC ZEAL. 
 
 nocossarieH of life. He is exposed to the rigours of an almost 
 arctic winter. He is cut oft froin human sympathy or con;;enial 
 companionship. Communication with the great world is often 
 maintained by infrequent and irregular mails, conveyed by 
 long and tortuous canoe routes in summer, or on dog-slods in 
 
 winter. The un- 
 varnished tales 
 of some of these 
 m i s s i o n a ri e s 
 lack no feiture 
 of heroic daring 
 and apostolic 
 zeal. But re- 
 cently one, with 
 his newly- wed- 
 ded wife, a lady 
 of much culture 
 
 Smow-Shoeino. 
 
 and refinement, travelled hundreds of miles by lake and river, 
 often making toilsome portages, once in danger of their lives 
 by the upsetting of their bark canoe in an arrowy rapid. In 
 midwinter the same intrepid missionary made a journey of 
 several hundred miles in a dog-sled, sleeping in the snow with 
 
 
SNOU'-S/IOi:iA'G. 
 
 473 
 
 the thcrinomoter forty, and oven fifty, dojjrees below zero, in 
 order to open a new mission among a pagan tribe ! 
 
 In winter the snow falls deep and is packed hard by the 
 wind. To walk well on snow, there is nothing like snow-shoes. 
 These are compo.sed of a light wooden frame, about four feet in 
 length, tapering from a width of about fifteen inches at the 
 centre to points at either end, the toes being turned up so 
 as to prevent tripping. Over this frame a netting of deer-skin 
 sinews or threads is stretched for the foot of the runner to rest 
 upon. The object of this appliance is by a thin network to 
 distribute the weight of the wearer over ou irgo a surface of 
 snow OS will prevent him from sinking. T)ie credit of the 
 invention is due to the Indians, and, like that of the canoe and 
 other Indian instruments, it is so ya fectly suited to the 
 obic 't in view as not to be susceptible of improvement by the 
 whites. 
 
 On show-shoes an Indian or half-breed will ti'avel thirty, 
 forty, and sometimes even fifty miles in twenty-four hours. It 
 is the common and, indeed, the only available mode oi' foot- 
 travel away from the public highways in winter. 
 
 Travelling otherwise than on foot is accomplished almost 
 entirely by means of dogs. The following account of winter 
 travel is taken from H. M. Robinson's graphic book on " The 
 Great Fur Land": "The vehicles to which the dogs are har- 
 nessed are of three kinds — the passenger sledge or dog-cariolo, 
 the freight sledge, and the travaille. A cariole consists of a 
 very thin board, usually not over half an inch thick, fifteen to 
 twenty inches wide, and about ten feet long, turned up at one 
 end in the form of a half circle, like a toboggan. To this board 
 a light frame-work box is attached, about eighteen inches from 
 the rear end. When travelling it is lined with buffalo-robes 
 and blankets, in the midst of which the passenger sits, or rather 
 reclines; the vehicle being prevented from capsizing by the 
 driver, who runs behind on snow-shoes, holding on to a line 
 attached to the back part of the cariole. The projecting end or 
 floor behind the passenger's seat is utilized as a sort of boot 
 upon which to tie baggage, or as a pl«»tform upon which the 
 driver may stand to gain a temporary respite when tired of 
 
474 
 
 DOG-TRAINS. 
 
 running. Four dogs to each sledge form a complete train. 
 They are harnessed to the cariole by means of two long traces. 
 " The rate of speed usually attained in sledge-travel is about 
 forty miles per day of ten hours, although this rate is often 
 nearly doubled. Four miles an hour is a common dog-trot 
 when the animals are well loaded; but this can be greatly 
 exceeded when hauling a cariole containing a single passenger 
 upon smooth snow-crust or a beaten track. Very frequently 
 extraordinary distances are compassed by a well-broken tra n 
 
 
 Doo-Tkain and Indian Rcnner. 
 
 ,of dogs. Sixty or eighty miles per day is not infrequently made 
 in the way of passenger travel. An average train of four dogs 
 will trot briskly along with three hundred pounds' weight 
 without difficulty." 
 
 Our engraving on next page shows the Rev. Egerton Ryerson 
 Young, for nine years a missionary in the North-West, in 
 winter costume. Writing of this picture, Mr. Young says : 
 
 " My own appearance will seem rather peculiar and unminis- 
 terial. However, it is just about as I generally looked when 
 working or travelling in the winter in that cold land, where 
 
''JACK" AND HIS MASTER. 
 
 476 
 
 the spirit thermometer — for the mercury would often be frozen 
 — used to get down to from forty to fifty degrees below zero. 
 
 Rev. E. R. Youno, in Winter Costume. 
 ' The suit is of leather — dressed moose skin, or reindeer skin 
 
476 
 
 WINTER TRAVEL. 
 
 — trimmed with far. The Indian women, who make these 
 leather suits, trim them also with a great deal of deer-skin 
 fringe. In their wild state on the plains, the warlike Indians 
 used to have these fringes made of the scalps of their enemies." 
 In the foreground is the famous dog "Jack," a huge St. 
 Bernard given Mr. Young by the Hon. Senator Sanford, of 
 Hamilton. He more than once by his sagacity and strength 
 saved the missionary's life. 
 
 Mr. Young thus describes a winter journey in the North Land: 
 
 " Ere we start let us examine our outfit — our dogs, our 
 
 Indians, our sleds and their loads. The dogs are called the 
 
 Esquimo or ' Huskie ' dog. I used them altogether on my long 
 
 A FiflHT IN Harness. 
 
 winter journeys until I imported my St. Bernards and New- 
 foundlands. These Esquimo dogs are queer fellows. Their 
 endurance is wonderful, their tricks innumerable, their appetites 
 insatiable, their thievish propensities unconquerable. It seems 
 to be their nature to steal, and they never get the mastery of it. 
 " Off we go. How the dogs seem to enjoy the sport. With 
 heads and tails up they bark and bound along as though it were 
 the greatest fun. The Indians, too, are full of life, and are put- 
 ting in their best paces. The bracing air and vigorous exercise 
 make us very hungry, and about noon we will stop and dine. 
 A few small dry trees are cut down and a fire is quickly built. 
 Snow is soon melted, tea is made, and this with some boiled 
 
INDIAN RUNNERS. 
 
 477 
 
 meat and biscuits will do very well. Our axes and kettles arc 
 again fastened to the sleds, and we are oft" again. We journey on 
 until the sun is sinking in the west, and the experienced Indian 
 guide says we will need all the daylight that is left in whiah to 
 prepare our camp for the night. 
 
 " Of our Indian runners it is a great pleasure to speak. Faith- 
 fully indeed were their services rendered, and bright are the 
 memories of their untiring devotion and constancy. When 
 their feet and ours were bleeding and nearly every footprint 
 of our trail was marked with blood, their cheerfulness never 
 failed them, and their hearts quailed not. When supplies ran 
 short, and home and plenty were many days distant, can we 
 ever forget how, ere the missionary wavS made aware of the 
 emptiness of his provision bags, they so quietly put themselves on 
 quarter rations that there might yet be sufficient full meals for 
 him ? And then when the long day's journey of perhaps sixoy or 
 eighty miles was ended, and we gathered at our camp tire, with 
 no roof above us but the stars, no friendly shelter within scores of 
 miles of us, how kindly, and with what reverence and respect, did 
 they enter into the worship of the great God who had shielded 
 us from so many dangers, and brought us to that hour. Some- 
 times they tried our patience, for they were human and so 
 were we; but much more frequently they won our admiration 
 by their marvellous endurance, and unerring skill and wisdom 
 in trying hours, when blizzards raged, and blinding snow-storms 
 obliterjiced all traces of the trail, and the white man became so 
 confused and affected by the cold that he was hardly able to 
 distinguish his right hand from his left. 
 
 " Picturesque was their costume, as in new leather suits, gaily 
 adorned with bead or porcupine quilt work, by the skilful hand 
 of bright-eyed wife or mother, they were on hand to commence 
 the long journey. And when the ' Farewells,' to loved ones 
 - i--' ', jx\s\ the word 'Marche!' was given, how rapid was 
 their pace, and how marvellous their ability to keep it up for 
 many a long, long day. To the missionary they were ever 
 loyal and true. Looking over nine years of faithful service to 
 him, as he went up and down through the dreary wastes 
 preaching Jesus, often where His name had never been heard 
 
478 
 
 NATIVE M/SSrONARV. 
 
 before, he cannot recall a single instance of treachery or ingra- 
 titude, but many of devoted attachment and unselfish love. 
 Some of them have since finished the long journey, and have 
 entered in through the gate into the celestial city about which 
 
 Bbv, Henry B. Steinhaueb. 
 
 they loved to hear us talk as we clustered around the camp 
 fire. May we all get there by-and-by. 
 
 One of the most remarkable fruits of missionary labour 
 among the aborigines was the native missionary, Henry B. 
 Steinhauer, whose portrait we give on this page. He was an 
 Ojibway Indian, born on the Rama reserve, in 1820, and 
 
WINTER CAMP. 
 
 479 
 
 trained in the Indian School at Grape Island. He afterwards 
 received a liberal education at Victoria Colleffe. In 1840 he 
 went as a missionary to his red brethren in the far North- West, 
 paddling his own canoe for hundreds of miles to reach his 
 future field of labour. He translated large portions of the 
 Scriptures and hymn-book into the native dialect. In 1854 he 
 accompanied the Rev. John Ryerson to Great Britain, and 
 pleaded eloquently the cause of his red brethren before the 
 British Churches. He again devoted himself to missionary toil 
 in the North- West, travelling with the native tribes on their 
 hunts and planting among them the germs of Christian civili- 
 zation. After a life of earnest toil for their evangelization, he 
 passed from labour to reward on the last Sunday of 1884, 
 leaving two sons to walk in their father's footsteps as mission- 
 aries to the aboriginal races of the North-Wost. 
 
 "Our cut on page 480," continues Mr. Young, "gives an idea 
 of what a winter camp in those northern regions are, under the 
 most favorable circumstances. To get away from the fierce 
 breezes that so often blow on the lake, we turn into the forest 
 perhaps a quarter of a mile. The first thing done after finding 
 a suitable place for the camp is to unharness the dogs. Then, 
 using our big snow-shoes as shovels, we clear away the snow 
 from a level spot where we build up our camp fire, around 
 which we spend the night. Our camp kettles are got out 
 and supper is prepared. Then balsam boughs are cut, and 
 are spread on the ground under our robes and blankets, adding 
 much to our comfort. Our dogs must not be forgotten, and so 
 frozen fish in sufficient numbers are taken from our sleds to 
 give a couple to each dog. As these are frozen as hard almost 
 as stones we thaw them out at the fire. What a pleasure it 
 used to be to feed the dogs ! How they did enjoy their only 
 meal of the whole day. What appetites they had ! The way 
 those dogs could eat twelve or fourteen pounds of white fish, 
 and then come and ask for more, was amazing. 
 
 " There were some dogs that seemed always hungry, and never 
 would be quiet. All night long they kept prowling round in 
 the camp among the kettles, or over us while we tried to sleep. 
 They were very jealous of each other when in the camp, and as 
 
480 
 
 WINTER CAMP. 
 
 they passed and repassed each other it was ever with a snarl. 
 Sometimes it would result in open war, and we have more than 
 
 once been rudely aroused from our slumbers by finding eight or 
 ten dogs fighting for what seemed to be the honour of sleeping 
 on our head. 
 
BRILLIANT AURORAS. 
 
 481 
 
 
 O 
 J? 
 
 H 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 
 I'' 
 
 The fatigue of travelling in the benumbing cold, perhaps 
 with a keen wind blowing over the icy lake, cannot be ade- 
 quately described. Sometimes a " blizzard " would prevent 
 travel altogether and drive the missionary to seek shelter. Mr. 
 Young exclaims : " How we used to enjoy the wintry camp after 
 a fatiguing day's journey, when both missionary and Indians 
 had tramped all day on snow-shoes. It was a real luxury to 
 
 find a place where 
 we could sit down 
 and rest our ach- 
 ing bones and tired 
 and often bleeding 
 feet. With plenty 
 of dry wood and 
 good food we for- 
 got our sorrows 
 and our isolation, 
 and our morning 
 and evening devotions were filled with gratitude and thank- 
 fulness to the great Giver of all good for His many mercies. 
 
 " How gloriously the stars shone out in those northern skies, 
 and how brilliant were the meteors that flashed athwart the 
 heavens ! But the glory of that land, surpassing any and every 
 other sight that this world aftbrds, is the wondrous Aurora. 
 
 War Dance in the Sky. 
 
 31 
 
482 
 
 INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 The Giant or Lake Winnipeg. 
 
 Never alike, and 
 yet always beauti- 
 ful, it breaks the 
 monotonous gloom 
 of those long, dis- 
 mal wintry nights, 
 with ever-chang- 
 ing splendour. The 
 arc of light is vis- 
 ible sometimes in 
 the northern sky 
 as we see it here. 
 Then it would be- 
 come strangely agi- 
 tated, and would 
 deluge us in floods 
 of light. Some- 
 times at the zenith 
 a glorious corona 
 would be formed 
 that flashed and 
 scintillated with 
 such brilliancy that 
 the eye was pained 
 with its brightness. 
 Suddenly bars of 
 coloured light shot 
 out from it, reach- 
 ing down apparent- 
 ly to the shore afar 
 off. The pagan In- 
 dians, as with awe- 
 struck counte- 
 nances they gazed 
 upon some of these 
 wonderful sights, 
 said they were 
 spirits of their war- 
 
TRIUMPHS OF CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 483 
 
 sights, 
 were 
 
 like ancestors going out to battle. A great many of them 
 are no longer pagans. Through numerous difficultie8 and hard- 
 ships, the missionaries have gone to them with the story of 
 the cross, and hundreds of these once i .ivage men are devout 
 followers of the Lord Jesus. Their conversion to Christianity 
 has amply repaid the missionaries for all they have suffered in 
 the bitter cold winters, when, with dog trains, they were obligo4l 
 to journey scores, or even hundreds, of miles to carry to them 
 the news of salvation. But there are many yet unconverted, 
 and, thank God, there are devoted missionaries still willing to 
 suj9er and endure the bitter cold if by so doing they can bring 
 them into the fold of the Good Shepherd." 
 
 Another local superstition is that of the Giant of Lake 
 Winnipeg — a mysterious being, who, at the witching hour of 
 night, guides his strange craft swiftly on the bright moonlit 
 pathway on the lake and as mysteriously disappears. It is 
 customary to place offerings of tobacco, etc., as a peace-offering 
 on a rock by the lake side. 
 
 Norway House is a large establiphment of the Hudson Bay 
 Company, twenty miles north of the northern extremity of 
 Lake Winnipeg. It was for many years one of the most 
 important of all the Company's posts. Gentlemen of the Com- 
 pany, and large numbers of Indians, used to gather here every 
 summer, some of them coming from vast distances. The furs 
 of half ct continent almost were here collected and then sent 
 down to York Factory on the Hudson's Bay, and from that 
 place shipped to England. 
 
 Rossville Mission is two miles from Norway House. This 
 mission is one of the most flourishing in the wild North Land. 
 Here it was that the Rev. James Evans invented the wonderful 
 syllabic characters for the Cree Indians. In these characters 
 the whole Bible is now printed, as well as a large number of 
 hymns and catechisms. So simple is the system that an average 
 Indian can learn to read in three or four days. The church at 
 Rossville is large, and is often filled with hundreds of Indians 
 who love to hear the Word of God. 
 
 "Our next cut," says Mr. Young, "shows a group of Indian 
 wigwams. That human beings can live in such frail abodes, in 
 
484 
 
 WIGIVAM LIFE. 
 
 such cold regions, is indeed surprising. But they do, and many 
 of them seem to thrive amazingly. Many a stormy day and 
 night I have spent in those queer dwelling-places. Sometimes 
 the winds whistled, and fine snow drifted in through the many 
 openings between the layers of the birch bark, of which they 
 were generally made, and I shivered until my teeth rattled 
 again. Often the smoke from the little fire, built on the ground 
 
 
 
 ■^^y 
 
 An Indian ViLLAbs. 
 
 in the centre of the tent, re- 
 fused to ascend and go out 
 through the top; then my eyes 
 suffered, and tears would un- 
 bidden start. What a mixed- 
 up crowd we often were. Men, 
 
 women, children, and dogs — and all smoking except the mis- 
 sionary and the dogs. During the day we huddled around the 
 fire in a circle with our feet tucked in under us. After supper, 
 and when the prayers were over, we each wrapped our 
 blanket around us and stretched ourselves out with our feet 
 toward the fire, like the spokes of a wheel, the fire in the 
 centre representing the hub. Frequently the wigwam was so 
 small that we dare not stretch out our feet for fear of putting 
 
TEPEES. 
 
 485 
 
 them in the fire, and so had to sleep in a position very much 
 lilce a half-opened jack-knife." 
 
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 M 
 
 In the prairie region the tepees are generally made of skin 
 as shown in our cut. These are much warmer and more com- 
 fortable than the birch-bark wigwams. 
 
486 
 
 INDIAN BUtilAL. 
 
 The mode of disposing of the dead is very remarkable. In 
 some places the bodies are put in rude caskets or wrapped in 
 skins or blankets and placed in trees. The plain Indians erect 
 a scaffold on the prairie, on which reposes the dead body out of 
 the reach of the coyote or prairie wolf. 
 
 
 "'^^ 
 
 ■.■•>:31> ' 
 
 Indian Gkavi ok thk Plains. 
 
 Few records of self-sacrifice are more sublime than that of the 
 devoted band at Edmonton House, near the Rocky Mountains, 
 ministering with Christ-like tenderness and pity to the Indians 
 smitten with that loathsome scourge, the small-pox. Few 
 pictures of bereavement are more pathetic than that of the sur- 
 vivors, themselves enfeebled through disease, laying in their far- 
 
HEROIC MISSIOSA RIES. 
 
 487 
 
 off lonely graves their loved ones who fell martyrs to their pious 
 zeal. For these plutnelesn heroes of the Christian chivalry all 
 human praise is cold and meaj^re ; hut the " Well done ! " of the 
 Lord they loved is their exceeilin;^ great reward. 
 The heroic McDougalls, father and sons, will be forever 
 
 Rkv. Georqb M. McDouoall. 
 
 associated in the annals of missionary heroism throughout the 
 North- West. The elder McDougall was a pathfinder of empire 
 as well as a pioneer of Christianity. After many years spent 
 in preaching the Gospel to the native tribes he died a tragic 
 death, but one not unfitting the hei'oism of his life. While out 
 on a hunting excursion with his sons he >-: "me lost on the 
 
488 
 
 A TRAGIC DEATH. 
 
 prairie, and not till after several days was his frozen body 
 found wrapped in icy sleep beneath the wintry sky. His 
 missionary son walks with equal zeal in the footsteps of his 
 sain'ed sire, and during the late North-West revolt rendered 
 
 Indian Missionary. 
 
 important service in assisting to pacify the restive Indian tribes. 
 These and other Indian missionaries often assumed the native 
 dress, as in our engraving, which was comfortable, enduring and 
 well fitted to resist the wear and tear of their lengthened 
 travels and hard work. 
 
A DYING RACE. 
 
 489 
 
 Few spectacles are more sad than that of the decay of the 
 once numerous and powerful native tribes that inhabited these 
 vast regions. The extinction of the race in the not very remote 
 future seems its inevitable destiny. Such has already been the 
 fate of portions of the great aboriginal family. In the library 
 of Harvard Universitj', near Boston, is an old and faded volume, 
 which, nevertheless, possesses an intensely pathetic interest. In 
 all the world there is none who comprehends the meaning of its 
 mysterious characters. It is a sealed book, and its voice is silent 
 forever. Yet its language was once the vernacular of a numer- 
 ous and powerful tribe. But of those who spoke that tongue 
 there runs no kindred drop of blood in any human veins. It is 
 the Bible translated for the use of the New England Indians by 
 Eliot, the great apostle of their race. 
 
 That worn and meagre volume, with its speechless pages, is 
 the symbol of a mighty fact. Like the bones of the dinornis 
 and the megatherium, it is the relic of an extinct creation. It 
 is the only vestige of a vanished race — the tombstone over the 
 grave of a nation. And similar to the fate of the New England 
 Indians seems to be the doom of the entire aboriginal popula- 
 tion of this continent. They are melting away like winter 
 snows before the summer's sun. Their inherent character is 
 averse to the genius of modern civilization. You cannot mew 
 up the eagle of the mountain like the barn-door fowl, nor tame 
 the forest stag like the stalled ox. So to the red man the tram- 
 mels and fetters of civilized life are irksome. They chafe his 
 very soul. Like the caged eagle, he pines for the freedom of 
 the forest or the prairie. He now stalks a stranger through the 
 heritage of his fathers — an object of idle curiosity, where once 
 he was lord of the soil. He dwells not in our cities. He assimi- 
 lates not with our habits. He lingers among us in scattered 
 reserves, or hovers upon the frontier of civilization, ever pushed 
 back by its advancing tide. To our remote descendants the 
 story of the Indian tribes will be a dim tradition, as that of the 
 Celts and Picts and ancient Britons is to us. Already their 
 arrow-heads and tomahawks are collected in our museums as 
 strange relicn of a bygone era. Our antiquaries, even new, 
 speculate with a puzzled interest on their memorial mounds and 
 
490 
 
 OUR WARDS. 
 
 barrows with feelings akin to those excited by the pyramids of 
 Gizeh, or the megaliths of Stonehenge. 
 
 We of the white race are in the position of warders to these 
 weak and perishing tribes. They Ipok up to our beloved Sove- 
 reign as their " Great Mother." We are their elder and stronger 
 
 InDiAX Typ£, with Eaole Headuress. 
 
 brethren — their natural protectors and guardians. The Gov- 
 eiiinient, it is true, has exercised a paternal care over the 
 Indians. It has gathered them into reserves, and bestowed 
 upon them annual gifts and pensions. But the white man's 
 civilization has brought more of bane than of blessing. His 
 vices have taken root more deeply than his virtues ; and the 
 
CHIEF BRANT. 
 
 491 
 
 diseases he has introduced have, at times, threatened the 
 extermination of the entire race. 
 
 Many whole tribes have, through the influence of the mis- 
 sionaries, become Christianized, and many individuals, as John 
 Sunday and Peter Jones, have become distinguished advocates 
 
 Indian Tvfk, with Beabs' Claws Neoklaoh. 
 
 of their race who have pleaded their cause with pathetic 
 eloquence on public platforms in Great Britain. One of the 
 ablest of these civilized Indians was Chief Joseph Brant, whose 
 portrait we give. He was distinguished for his unswerving 
 loyalty to the British, and gallantly fought for king and country 
 during two bloody wars. 
 
492 
 
 PAGAN RITES. 
 
 Many of these tribes are still pagan, and sacrifice the white 
 dog, worship the great Manitou, and are the prey of cunning 
 medicine-men and of superstitious fears, Others give an 
 unintelligent observance to the ritual of a ceremonial form 
 of Christianity, and regard the cross only as a more potent 
 
 Thaykndinaoa— Chief Joseph Brant. 
 
 fetish than their ancestral totem. As the white race has, in 
 many respects, taught them to eat of the bitter fruit of the 
 tree of knowledge of good and evil, be it theirs to pluck for 
 tliem the healing leaves of the tree of life ! As they have 
 occupied their ancient inheritance, be it theirs to point them to 
 a more enduring country, an inheritance incorruptible and 
 
Pawnee Ciiiek im Fill War Dress. 
 
494 
 
 REGINA. 
 
 undeiiled — fairer fields and lovelier plains than even the fabled 
 
 hunting-grounds of their fathers — 
 
 " In the Iiingdom of Ponomah, 
 In the region of the west wind, 
 In the land of the Hereafter." 
 
 THROUGH THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORIES. 
 
 We resume our journey over the Canadian Pacific Railway 
 at the western confines of Manitoba. The sun went down in 
 crimson splendour, and during the night Broadview, Qu'Appelle, 
 Regina, Moosejaw, Swift Current, and a score of other places 
 were passed. I must be dependent for an account of places 
 passed by night on the excellent guide book published by the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway. 
 
 Regina is the capital of the Province of Assiniboia, and the 
 distributing point for the country far north and south. The 
 Executive Council of the North -West Territories, embracing 
 the provinces of Assiniboia, Alberta, Saskatchewan and Atha- 
 basca, meets here, and the jurisdiction of the Lieutenant- 
 Governor, whose residence is here, extends over all these 
 provinces. The headquarters of the North-West Mounted 
 Police with the barracks, ofiicers' quarters, offices, storehouses 
 and the imposing drill-hall, together make a handsome village. 
 Moosejaw is a railway divisional point and a busy market 
 town near the western limit of the present settlements. The 
 name is an abridgment of the Indian name, which, literally 
 translated, is " The -creek -where -the -white -man -mended -the- 
 cart-with-moose-jaw-bone." The country is treeless from the 
 eastern border of the Regina plain to the Cypress Hills, two 
 hundred miles, but the soil is excellent nearly everywhere, and 
 the experimental farms of the railway company, which occur 
 at intervals of thirty miles all the way to the mountains, have 
 proved the sufficiency of the rainfall. 
 
 Next day the general features of the landscape continued 
 still the same. The stations, however, are farther apart, and 
 the settleri^ fewer in number. In some places the station house 
 is the only building in sight. At one such place, a couple of 
 tourists came out on the platform as the train came to a stop 
 
THE LAST OF THE BUFFALO. 
 
 495 
 
 " Which side is the town, anyhow ? " said one to the other. 
 
 " The same side as the timber, of course," replied the other. 
 The point of the joke is that not a solitary tree was to be seen 
 on either .side. 
 
 Everywhere are evidences of the former presence of the 
 countless herds of buffalo that pastured on these plains. 
 Their deeply-marked trails — great grooves worn in the tough 
 sod — show where they sought their favourite pastures, or salt 
 licks, or drinking places ; and their bleaching skeletons whiten 
 
 Prairie Happy Familt. 
 
 the ground where they lay down and died, or, more likely, 
 were ruthlessly slaughtered for their tongues and skins. Their 
 bones have been gathered near the stations in great mounds — 
 tons and tons of them — and are shipped by the car load to the 
 eastern cities, for the manufacture of animal charcoal for sugar 
 refining. The utter extinction of the bison is one of the most 
 remarkable results of the advance of civilization. Ten years 
 ago, in their migration from south to north, they so obstructed 
 the Missouri River, where they crossed, that steamboats were 
 
496 
 
 THE PROBLEM OF THE PRAIRIES. 
 
 compelled to stop in mid-strearn ; and an eye-witness assured 
 me he could have walked across the river on the animals' 
 backs. Now scarce a buffalo is to be seen, except in the far 
 valley of the Peace River, and a score of half-domesticated ones 
 near Winnipeg. 
 
 Among the interesting objects seen on the plains are the 
 remarkable little rodents known as prairie dogs. They dig 
 underground burrows with remarkable facility, at the mouth of 
 which they will sit with a cunning air of curiosity till some- 
 thing disturbs them when, presto, a twinkling disappearing tail 
 is the last that is seen of them. It is said that rattlesnakes 
 and owls will occupy the same burrows, but of that this deponent 
 sayeth not. 
 
 Numerous "slews" and shallow lakes — Rush Lake, Goose 
 Lake, Gull Lake, and many others — furnish feeding places for 
 myriads of wild fowl. Further west there is evidence of alkali 
 in the soil, in the glistening, snow-white and saline incrusta- 
 tions, where these shallow, bitter pools have dried up. The 
 origin of these vast prairies is one of the most difficult problems 
 of science. They have been attributed to the annual burning 
 of the long grass, which would effectually destroy the germs or 
 sapling stems of trees, while the toughness of the prairie soil 
 would prevent their seeds from taking root. Dr.' Winchell 
 attributes the deep black prairie soil of Illinois to the gradual 
 drying up of an old shallow lake. The same may have been 
 the origin of the Red River prairie region, which has frequently, 
 within recent times, been floooded by the overflowing river. 
 But on the high upland prairie of the North- West this explana- 
 tion fails ; unless, indeed, the shallow lakes and " slews " once 
 covered the entire region. 
 
 The presence of the Mounted Police is evidently a terror to 
 evil-doers, especially to whiskey smugglers and horse-thieves. 
 The police have a smart military look with their scarlet tunics, 
 white helmets, spurred boots, and riding trousers. Their arras 
 are a repeating carbine and a six-shooter, with a belt of 
 cartridges. They made a more than perfunctory search for 
 liquor on the train ; an Irish immigrant was very indignant at 
 this interference with the liberty of the subject. A good deal 
 
UNDER RAN. 
 
 497 
 
 of 
 or 
 at 
 ftal 
 
 of liquor was formerly smuggled in barrels of sugar and the 
 like, and some villainous concoctions are still brought in by 
 traders from the American frontier. It is a glorious thing that 
 throu!:,'iiout so large an area of our country the liquor traffic is 
 undei ban. Qod grant that these fresh and virgin prairies may 
 
 continue forever uncursed by the blight of strong drink ! The 
 granting of permits, however, I was told, gives frequent oppor- 
 tunities for evading the prohibition. 
 
 At many of the stations a few Indians or half-breeds may be 
 seen, but the first place at which I observed the red man with 
 painted face and feathers, brass ear-rings and necklace, and 
 
498 
 
 INDIAN TRAFFICKING. 
 
 other savage finery, was at Maple Creek station, near MecUcino 
 Hat. He is not a very heroic figure, and the squaws looic still 
 worse. They were wrapped in dirty blankets, carrying their 
 
 a. 
 
 ■A 
 
 
 B 
 
 H 
 
 ■< 
 
 < 
 ■II 
 
 H 
 
 b 
 
 o 
 
 02 
 
 ■J 
 
 o 
 
 a: 
 
 U 
 
 I 
 
 H 
 
 ■< 
 
 a 
 
 papooses tucked in at their backs. They had large, coarse 
 mouths, and their heads were covered only with their straight, 
 black hair. They were selling buffalo horns, from which the 
 rough outer surface had been chipped or filed off, — the hard 
 
MEDICINE HA T. 
 
 499 
 
 black core being polished by the hand to a lustrous smoothness. 
 They exhibited only one pair at a time, and when that was sold 
 they would jerk another pair, a little better, from under their 
 blankets. Fifty or seventy-five cents would purchase a pair 
 selling for three or four times that price at Winnipeg. 
 
 At Medicine Hat, six hundred and forty miles from Winnipeg, 
 we cross the South Saskatchewan by the fine bridge shown in 
 the engraving. The country round here has a somewhat barren 
 look, the bare clay hills being carved and scarred into steep 
 escarpments by wind and rain. Here numerous Indian types 
 were seen, including one industrious fellow with a cart, who was 
 selling water drawn from the river for twenty-five cents a 
 barrel. An extensive police barracks, over which waved the 
 Union Jack, crowned a neighbouring hill, and in the valley was 
 a camp of Indian tepees, as their skin lodges are called. Some 
 two thousand cattle, and as many sheep from Montana, had just 
 been driven in, enough to freight one hundred and fifty cars for 
 the east. The Mounted Police were guarding them from cattle 
 thieves, Indian or white. One detachment were in pursuit of 
 a band of Piegans, who had stolen some horses. 
 
 In the river lay the steamer Bavonem, shown in the wood-cut 
 — a somewhat primitive-working stern-wheeler with open sides. 
 From here, at high water, is open navigation for over a thousand 
 miles through the two Saskatchewans and Lake Winnipeg to 
 the Red Kiver. A branch railway leads to the famous coal 
 mines at Lethbridge, near Fort McLeou. 
 
 As one rides day after day over the vast and fertile prairies 
 of the great North-West, he cannot help feeling the question 
 come home again and again to his mind — What shall the future 
 of these lands be ? The tamest imagination cannot but kindle 
 at the thought of the grand inheritance God has given to us 
 and to our children in this vast domain of empire. Almost the 
 whole of Europe, omitting Russia and Sweden, might be placed 
 within the prairie region of the North-West ; and a population 
 greater than that of Europe may here find happy homes. The 
 prophetic voice of the seer exclaims : 
 
500 THE FOUNDATIONS OF EMPIRE, 
 
 I honr tho truiid of pionuurs, 
 
 Of nntions yot to bo, 
 Tho first l((w WHsh of wftvoB, whoro soon 
 
 Slinll roll IV human sen. 
 
 Tho rudiments of ompiro horo 
 
 Aro pliistic yot and warm ; 
 Tho chaos of a mighty world 
 
 Is rounding into form. 
 
 Behind tho scared squaw's birch canno, 
 
 Tho stoamor smokes and raves ; 
 And city lots are staked for sale, 
 
 Above old Indian graves. 
 
 The child is now living who shall live to see great province* 
 carved out of these North-West territories, and great cities 
 strung like pearls along its iron roads and water-ways. Now 
 is the hour of destiny ; now is the opportunity to mould the 
 future of this vast domain — to lay deep and strong and stable 
 the foundations of the commonweal, in those Christian institu- 
 tions which shall be the corner-stone of our national greatness. 
 
 To quote again from Whittier : 
 
 Wo cross the prairie as of old 
 
 The pjigrims crossed the sea, ' 
 
 To make the West as they the Eact 
 
 The homestead of the free ! 
 
 We go to plant her common schools 
 
 On distant prairie swells. 
 And give the SaV«b- ths of the wild 
 
 The music of Ues bells. 
 
 Upbearing, like Ibo ark of old, 
 
 The Bible >n. our van. 
 Wo go to test the truth of God 
 
 Against the fraud of man. 
 
 While other Churches have rendered immense service to 
 Christianity and civilization in this vast region, I am more 
 familiar with the missionary work of the Methodist Church. 
 That Church has no cause to be ashamed of its record in this 
 heroic work. It has been a pathfinder of Protestant missions 
 throughout the vast regions stretching from Nelson River ta 
 
PIONEER MISSIONARIES. 
 
 501 
 
 the slopes of the Rocky Mountains. Nearly fifty years ago, 
 when these regions were less accessible than is the heart of 
 Africa today, those pioneer nussionaries, Rundle and Evans, 
 
 planted the Cross and preached the Gospel to the wandering 
 Indians of the forest and the plains. Nor have they been 
 without their heroic successois from that day to this. 
 
602 
 
 PRAIRIE TRADERS. 
 
 We are glad to have an opportunity of presenting here, from 
 the pen of a successful Presbyterian missionary, an account of 
 the nature and difficulties of mission-work among the white 
 settlers in the North- West Territories. 
 
 "A few years ago," says Mr. Mackenzie, "vast herds of buffalo 
 wandered about over these plains and among the foothills of 
 the Rockies, furnishing the Indian with all that he needed. 
 Then whiskey-traders came to buy robes — hardened, reckless 
 fellows, who often had to fortify themselves against the attacks 
 of the people t/hom they cheated. The whole West was then 
 in a lawless, desperate condition. McDougall, the missionary, 
 tells us how he used to sit up at night when he was travelling, 
 lest his horses should be stolen ; and it was very much owing 
 to his urgency that the Mounted Police were sent out in 1874. 
 They had to travel by the Missouri to Benton, then made a 
 desperate march o,cross the plains in the parching heat. Beside 
 the Old Man's River they built log huts wherein to bide the 
 winter, and the station was ultimately known as Fort McLeod. 
 Traders gathered round, and soon the place was a distributing 
 point for the North. The white tilts of the prairie schooners, 
 laden with all kinds of freight, were more frequently seen, as 
 their eleven or twelve yoke of oxen were hurried at the reck- 
 less speed of from twelve to fifteen miles a day by the driver's 
 heavy whip with his sixteen-foot lash — urged also by profanity 
 not in any way measurable. And in a few years a very large 
 business was going on." 
 
 At Morleyville, in this vicinity, a Methodist mission was 
 established by John McDougall, in 1871, three years before 
 the Mounted Police arrived in the country. At the "Blood 
 Reserve," Fort McLeod, another Methodist mission was estab- 
 lished in 1878. In 1884 Mr. Mackenzie was sent as the first 
 Presbyterian missionary to Fort McLeod. He thus describes 
 the nature of his work — a description in large part api)licable 
 to most mission work in the North-West : — 
 
 "A store-room in the deserted barracks was secured, and 
 eleven people gathered to hear the Word on the Sabbath. 
 One of the hearers that first day was a granddaughter of a 
 Covenanting minister, and she was most helpful ia the work. 
 
 ft 
 
PRAIRIE MORALS. 
 
 503 
 
 and 
 ath. 
 £ a 
 ork. 
 
 Many of the men were respectable, but quite careless. So 
 accustomed had they become to their surroundings that they 
 had ceased to notice wickedness, and were hardened to evil. 
 Some of them had not listened to a minister for ten or twenty 
 years.. Naturally they found the saloons more familiar, and 
 saw no reason why there should be innovations ; so came to the 
 conclusion that one made public who ?aid : ' The missionary's a 
 kind of a man I have no manner of use for.' 
 
 " There were educated men, too, who had fallen to the depths. 
 One might meet a doctor working as a common labourer to 
 dupply himself with liquor; or find a relative of Lord Macaulay's 
 presiding over a squaw household ; or see the next heir to the 
 title of a nobleman, whose name appears in our hymn-book, 
 living a most ignoble life. One notably »rofane character usod 
 to carry a copy of Virgil with him to aad at odd hours. 
 
 •' Then there were many others who were openly wicked. 
 One might pass on the street men whose hands had been red 
 with human blood. The professional gambler, with sinister 
 look, lowering brows and averted eyes, might be seen lounging 
 about during the day in preparation for the night with its 
 excitement. And such had no lack of victims; the gaming 
 table seemed to fascinate them as the cold glittering eyes of the 
 snake fascinate a bird. They seem to lose will-power and 
 cannot but play. One I knew set out several times for his 
 home in the East with thousands of dollars of hard-earned 
 money, but would begin to play somewi ere on the road in the 
 hope of gaining more. And with coat thrown off and perspira- 
 tion streaming from his face, would stake larger and larger 
 sums till all was gone; then come back to work again dispirited 
 and hopeless. Another lost all his property in a night or two, 
 that years of patient toil had gained. Yet neither could resist 
 the fascination. 
 
 " It would be strange if things were otherwise ; for the only 
 places of entertainment are the saloons. Young men who have 
 no homes have literally nowhere else to go to spend their 
 evenings. There they must join with a rollicking crowd of 
 cowboys and travellers, freighters, traders, teamsters, gambler^, 
 and must spend money for the good of the house or be con- 
 
504 
 
 MISSION WORK. 
 
 I 
 
 I! 
 
 sidered mean — and meanness is the unpardonable sin among 
 Western men. 
 
 " These men were difficult to reach ; many knew more of 
 IngersoU's writings than of the Bible. Their beliefs were too 
 often formed to justify evil lives, and they did not want to 
 know the truth ; they loved darkness because their deeds were 
 evil. Pioneer mission-work bears some resemblance to the 
 invasion of a country, and we must deal principally with 
 enemies. Proper meeting-places we.'e not always to be had. 
 The Word was spoken in little huts, daubed within and without 
 with mud, in u billiard saloon over the tables, in hotel* dining- 
 rooms, in the police barracks, in the miners' messroom, in tii >. 
 crowded stopping-place by the ^ay, in ranches to the assemblv. 
 cowboys, in shacks where lonely bachelors lived. O*" je during 
 service I saw through the open church-door four Indians in- 
 tently gambling in a shed only a few yards away. A most 
 important work was done in house-to-house visitation, for many 
 were too far away to attend services. The people were always 
 kind ; their hospitality was as free as the pure crystal air of 
 the West that revives and exhilarates the stranger. Then 
 there were wayside chances ; a casual greeting, an invitation to 
 service, an hour of travel together, gave me chance to speak a 
 few serious words to someone. If I were asked how a mis- 
 sionary can most effectively work out there, my observation 
 would lead me to answer, chiefly by being a man among 
 men and showing intense human interest. The people have 
 sympathy for manliness and honour, and despise a man who 
 comes to them with the clerical simper, or the Inisterial 
 twang, or who tries to treat them with holy condescension. 
 
 " Are there not privations ? Oh, yes. There will be long 
 journeys. Dwellings are so scattered that there may be danger 
 from exposure to cold in winter. The missionary cannot ei^oid 
 the fatigue of days in the saddle, the discomfort of soak' v '.y 
 the rain-storms that .«^weep the prairie, or the weariness of 
 toiling through pathless snow. His bed may be one night sacks 
 of grain, the next a bunch of hay or a plank floor with only a 
 blanket or buffalo robe for covering ; or he may chance upon 
 comfortable quarters. But the missionary does not complain ; 
 
THE ROCKIES. 
 
 505 
 
 he is only taking part in the lot of others. They are willing to 
 suffer from cold and wet and weariness for the sake of gain. 
 Every you"g man who goes out there to make his fortune must 
 rouo-h it to some extent. And where men, for the sake of 
 worldly wealth, are making sacrifices of comfort, he is a poor 
 affair who would not do as much, for the sake of Christ, as they 
 do for money." 
 
 THROUGH THE ROCKIES. 
 
 I must, however, proceed with a brief and inadequate sketch 
 of the wonderful ride over the mountain section of the Canadian 
 
 Foothills of the Rockies. 
 
 un; 
 
 Pacific Railway. As we approached the western limit of the 
 prairie section the sun went oown in goMen glory, but no sign 
 of the mountains was in sigh*^. Beyond Medicine Hat the 
 railway rises to the high piairie-plaleau whicli extends, gradu- 
 ally rising, to the base j1' the mountains. Cattle ranches are 
 spreading over it, and farms appear at intervals. From 
 Langevin, the higher peaks of the Rocky Mountains may be 
 seen, one hundred and fifty miles away. At Crowfoot they may 
 again be seen. Beyond Gleichen the Rockies come into full 
 view — a magnificent line of snowy peaks extendiag far along 
 the southern and western horizon. 
 
506 
 
 CALGARY. 
 
 Calgary (altitude, 3,388 feet ; population, two thousand four 
 hundred) is the most important, as well as the handsomest, 
 
 town between Brandon and Vancouver. It is charmingly 
 situated on a hill-girt plateau, overlooked by the white peaks 
 
Approaching the Rockies. 
 
508 
 
 ENTERING THE ROCKIES. 
 
 of the Rockies. It is the centre of the trade of the great 
 ranching country and the chief source of supply for the mining 
 districts in the mountains beyond. Lumber is largely made 
 here from logs floated down Bow River. Extensive ranches 
 are now passed in rapid succession, — great herds of horses in 
 the lower valleys, thousands of cattle on the terraces, and 
 myriads of sheep on the hill-tops may be seen at or.ce, making 
 a picture most novel and interesting. Saw-mills and coal- 
 
 'ti 
 
 Wi^y^-'^^ ' ">., 
 
 
 ^'^i""' ,^>'^^-..^ 
 
 At Canmobe. 
 
 mines appear along the 
 -s^> ''-■=- valley. After crossing 
 
 over the Bow River a 
 magnificent outlook is obtained, toward the left, where the 
 foothills rise in successive tiers of sculptured heights to the 
 snowy range behind them. " By-and-bye," writes Lady Mac- 
 donald, " the wide valleys change into broken ravines, and lo ! 
 through an opening in the mist, made rosy with early sunlight, 
 we see, far away up in the sky, its delicate pearly tip clear 
 against the blue, a single snow-peak of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
NIGHT SCENE. 
 
 509 
 
 Our coarse natures cannot at first appreciate the exquisite 
 aerial grace of that solitary peak that seems on its way to 
 heaven ; but, as we look, a gauzy mist passes over, and it has 
 vanished." 
 
 The mountains now rise abruptly in great masses, streaked 
 and capped with snow and ice, and just beyond Kananaskis 
 station a bend in the line brings the train between two almost 
 vertical walls of dizzy height. This is the gap by which the 
 
 Summit 07 the Rockies. 
 
 Kocky Mountains are entered. At Canmore, the foothills of 
 the Rockies are fairly reached, and the repose of the plains 
 gives place to the energy of the mountains. Banff I passed 
 in the night, but I visited it on my return journey and shall 
 describe it later on. It was a clear, starlight night, and reclin- 
 ing in my berth I watched the snow-capped mountains come 
 nearer and nearer into view, and then glide rapidly by. Great 
 Orion, the mighty hunter, stalked his prey along the mountain 
 tops, and Bootes held in leash his hounds. Arcturus looked 
 down with undimmed eye, as in the days of Job ; and Alde> 
 
510 
 
 MORNING ON THE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 baran and Alcyone, in gleaming mail, outwatched the waning 
 night. The silver peaks looked ghost-like in the faint light 
 of the stars. At last the slow dawn clomb the sky, the moun- 
 tain's cheeks blushed with the sun's first kiss, the rosy glow 
 crept slowly down the long slopes, and the mists and darkness 
 fled away. I came out on the rear platform of the car while 
 the train swept down the wild canyon of the Kicking Horse 
 Pass. A rapid mountain stream rushed swiftly down, leaping 
 
 
 rj;V«:.' -J, 
 
 :;te 
 
 .^#^ij; 
 
 On the Kiokiko Horse. 
 
 from crag to crag, and 
 lashed to snowy rage, to 
 find after many wind- 
 ings the distant Pacific. " The scenery is now sublime. The 
 line clings to the mountain-side at the left, and the valley 
 on the right rapidly deepens until the river is seen as a gleam- 
 ing thread a thousand feet below. Looking to the north, one 
 of the grandest mountain-valleys in the world stretches away 
 to the north, with great white, glacier-bound peaks on either 
 side." The scene strikingly reminded me of a wild gorge and 
 mountain vista on the T^te Noire Pass, in Switzerland. 
 
EXTENT. 
 
 611 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 AS we have now entered British Columbia it will be ap- 
 propriate to take a general survey of this largest of the 
 provinces. It forms the western face of the Dominion of 
 Canada ; and it would bo difficult to say whether its geogra- 
 phical position or its great resources are of more value. It 
 has a coast line of about five hundred miles on the Pacific 
 Ocean, with innumerable bays, harbours and inlets. It has 
 an area of 341,305 square miles, and if it be described from 
 the characteristics of its climate and great mineral wealth, it 
 might be said to be the Great Britain and California of the 
 Dominion. It is as large as Norway, France and Belgium 
 taken together. We quote from the Government Guide Book. 
 
 The province is divided into two parts — the Island of Van- 
 couver and the main land. The island is about three hundred 
 miles in length, with an average breadth of sixty miles, con- 
 taining an area of about twenty thousand square miles. 
 
 First among the resources of British Columbia may be classed 
 its mineral wealth. The surveys in connection with the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway have established the existence of gold 
 over the whole extent of the province. Large values have 
 already been taken from the gold mines which have been 
 worked. This precious metal is found all along the Fraser and 
 Thompson rivers, and on Vancouver Island, and more recently 
 at the Cassiar Mines, reached through Alaska. 
 
 Want of roads to reach them and want of capital seem to 
 have ' 'Cen the obstacles in the way of more generally working 
 the gold mines in the past. These obstacles are, however, in 
 the way of being overcome. Copper is found in abundance in 
 British Columbia; and silver mines have been found in the 
 Fraser Valley. The coal mines of British Columbia are prob- 
 ably even more valuable than its gold mines. Bituminous coal 
 

 512 
 
 RESOURCES. 
 
 is found in Vancouver Island in several places ; and anthracite 
 coal, of very excellent quality, on Queen Charlotte's Island. 
 This is said to bo superior to Pennsylvania anthracite, and 
 although coal is found in California, that which is mined in 
 British Columbia commands the highest price in San Francisco. 
 His Excellency the Marquis of Lome said respecting it, in a 
 speech at Victoria, British Columbia: — "The coal from the 
 Nanaimo mines leads the markets at San Francisco. Nowhere 
 else in these countries is such coal to be found, and it is now 
 being worked with an energy that bids fair to make Nanaimo 
 one of tho chief mining stations on the continent. It is of 
 incalculable importance, not only to this province of tho 
 Dominion, but also to the interests of the empire, that our fleets 
 and mercantile marine, as well as the continental markets, should 
 be supplied from this source." 
 
 The forest lands are of great extent, and the timber most 
 valuable. They are found throughout nearly the whole extent 
 of the province. The principal trees are the Douglas pine, 
 Menzies fir, yellow fir, balsam, hemlock, white pine, cedar, yellow 
 cypress, arbor vitae, oak, yew, white maple, arbutus, alder, dog- 
 wood, aspen and cherry. The Douglas pine is almost universal 
 on the sea coast, and up to the Cascade range. It yields spars 
 from ninety to one hundred feet in length, can often be obtained 
 one hundred and fifty feet free from knots, and has squared 
 forty-five inches for ninety feet. It is thought to be the 
 strongest pine or fir in existence. Broken in a gale, the stem is 
 splintered to a height of at least twenty feet, and it is astonish- 
 ing to see how small a portion of the trunk will withstand the 
 leverage of the whole tree. The timber contains a great deal 
 of resin, and is exceedingly durable. The bark resembles cork, 
 is often eight or nine inches thick, and makes splendid fuel. 
 
 The white pine is common everywhere. The Scotch fir is 
 found on the bottom lands with the willow and cottonwood. 
 The cedar abounds in all parts of the country, and attains an 
 enormous growth. Hemlock spruce is very common. The maple 
 is universal. The arbutus grows very large, and the wood in 
 colour and texture resembles box. There are two kinds of oak, 
 much of it of good size and quality. 
 
an 
 pie 
 
 in 
 lak, 
 
6K 
 
 FOREST WEALTH. 
 
 Tljo Fiascr River and its tributaries, with the numerous 
 lakes communicating with them, furnish great facilities for tho 
 conveyance of timber. The Lower Fraser country especially 
 is densely wooded. Smaller streams and numerous inlets and 
 arms of the sea furnish facilities for the region further north. 
 
 Every stick in these wonderful forests, which so an)ply and 
 generously clothe the Sierras from the Cascade range to tho 
 distant Rockv Mountains, will be of value as communication 
 opens up. Tho great arch of timber lands beginning on the 
 west of Lake Manitoba, circles round to Edmonton, comes 
 down among the mountains, so as to include the whole of the 
 province. The business of the canning of salmon, which has 
 assumed such large proportins along the Pacific shore, great as 
 it is, is as yet only in its infancy, for there is many a river 
 swarming with fish from the time of the first run of salmon in 
 spring to the last run of other varieties in tho autumn, on which 
 canneries are sure to be established. The fisheries are prob 
 ably the richest in the world. 
 
 The Province of British Columbia cannot be called an ajrri- 
 cultural country throughout its whole extent. But it yet 
 possesses very great agricultural resources, especially in view of 
 its mineral and other sources of wealth, as well as its position. 
 It possesses tracts of arable land of very great extent. A 
 portion of these, however, require artificial irrigation. This is 
 easily obtained, and not expensive, and lands so irrigated are of 
 very great fertility. Land one thousand seven hundied feet 
 above the level of the sea, thus irrigated, has yielded as high as 
 forty bushels of wheat per acre. 
 
 The tracts of lands suitable for grazing purposes are of 
 almost endless extent, and the climate very favourable, shelter 
 being only required for sheep, and even this not in ordinary 
 seasons. On the Cariboo road there is a plain one hundred and 
 fifty miles long, and sixty or eighty wide, and between the 
 Thompson and Fraser rivers there is an immense ti'act of arable 
 and grazing land. The hills and plains are covered with bunch 
 grass, on which the cattle and horses live all winter, and its 
 nutritive qualities are said to exceed the celebrated blue grass 
 and clover of Virginia. 
 
Field Station and Mount Stephen. 
 
i 
 
 51G 
 
 MOLWT STEP HEX 
 
 The valuable fisheries, forests and mines on the extreme 
 western end of the road, the agricultural produce of the great 
 prairie region, and the mines, timber, lumljer and minerals of 
 the eastern section, will be more than sufHcient to ensure an 
 immense local and throu-h traffic over the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway. In addition to this, the trade fiowing from ocean to 
 ocean, from east to west and from west to east, will undoubtedly 
 make the great Canadian highway one of the most important 
 trunk lint < in America. Already branch and independent rail- 
 
 MOKNI.NG ON THE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 ways ure being (onstructed to act as feeders to the main line. 
 We now I'esume our trip through the Rockies. At Field Station, 
 at the foot of the Kicking Horse Pass, we take on an addi- 
 tioujil engine of tremendous pov/er and weight, to push is up 
 the a>?cending g.ade. Mount Stephen is the highest peak in 
 the range, eight thousand feet above the valley, and dominates 
 for many a mi'e over all the Titan brotherhood. On its mighty 
 slope is seen, high overhead, a shining green glacier, eight 
 hundred feet in thickness, which is slowly pressing forward 
 and over a vertical clifi' of great height. When its highly- 
 coloured donte and spires are illuminated by the sun it seems to 
 rise as a flame .shooting into the sky. 
 
 9mmmm 
 
} lien EST PEAK. 
 
 517 
 
 I 
 J 
 
 151} 
 
 MorvT Stei'ukn, near Summit of the Rockies. 
 
Ill . 
 
 li 
 
 i 
 
 - f 
 
 518 
 
 MINING CAMP. 
 
 At unfrequent intervals we pass little groups of log-houses 
 and mining camps, rejoicing in such imposing names as Golden 
 or Silver City. As we sweep up the Beaverfoot Valley, the 
 vast wall of the Beaverfoot mountains, with their serrated 
 peaks, seems in the clear atmosphere only a short walk from 
 the track, yet I was told it was fourteen miles away. The 
 
 Be.vver Lakk. 
 
 canyon rapidly deepens until, beyond Palliser, the mountain 
 sides become vertical, rising straight up thousands of feet, and 
 within an easy stone's-throw from wall to wall. Down this 
 vast chasm go the railway and the river together, the former 
 cro.ssinjr from side to side to ledges cut out of the solid rock, 
 and twisting and turning in every direction. " The supremely 
 
R m 
 
 520 
 
 ".•;>•(;..] AV)." 
 
 beautiful mountains beyond are the Selkirks, risin*,' from their 
 forost-clad bases and lifting their ice-crowned lieads far into 
 the sky. They are matchless in form, and when bathed in the 
 light of the afternoon sun, their radiant warmth and glory 
 
 JSUKVKYOKs' C.\M1». 
 
 of colour suggest Asgard, the celestial fity of Scandinavian 
 story." From Golden to Donald, the railway follows down the 
 Columbia on the face of the lower bench of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, the Selkirks all the way in full view opposite, the soft 
 green streaks down their sides indicating the paths of ava- 
 
 mam 
 
Aian 
 
 the 
 
 oun- 
 
 sofb 
 
 avii- 
 
11 
 
 i'nl' 
 
 l ;jis 
 
 3 SI 
 
 522 
 
 r///^ IfER.U/TS. 
 
 lanches. At Donald, which is a divisional station, and the site 
 of extensive works, there is quite a larj^e collection of houses, 
 and some surprisingly good stores. Here 1 passed, in the 
 heart of the mountains, a long train of eighty-five cars of tea. 
 two of canned salmon, and two of seal furs, en route for New 
 York, on a time schedule almost as fast as a passenger train. 
 The road, in sweeping up the long Beaver River Valley, leaps 
 audaciously over .some very deep lateral gorges. The trestle- 
 work in places supports the track at a height of nearly three 
 hundred feet aljovc the brawling stream beneath. 
 
 THK IIKAUT OF THE SELKIRKS. 
 
 The grandeur culminates, however, at the Hermits, and 
 Mounts Macdonald and Sir Donald. The first of these rises in 
 bare and splintered pinnacles, like the famous "Needles" of 
 Charnounix, so steep that not even the snow can find lodgment 
 on their almost perpendicular slopes. Mount Macdorald seems 
 almost to impend above the track, although a deep ravine 
 separates it from the railway. It towers a mile and a (quarter 
 above the roadway in almost vertical height, its numberless 
 pinnacles piercing the verj'- zenith. I had to stand on the 
 lowest step of the car to prevent the roof from obstructing the 
 view of the mountain-top. Not in crossing either Alps or 
 Appenines have I seen such a tremendous, awe-inspiring clitf. 
 Roger's Pass lies between two lines of huge snow-clad peaks. 
 That on the north forms a prodigious amphitheatre, under 
 whoso parapet, seven or eight thousand feet above the valley, 
 half a dozen glaciers may be seen at once, and so near that 
 their shining green fissures are distinctly visible. 
 
 At Glacier Station, in the heart of Selkirk Ranjre in this 
 immediate vicinity, I stayed ofi' a day to do some climbing 
 among the mountains. This is a wildly beautiful spot. The 
 railway company has here erected a hotel and cut out roads 
 through the tangled forest and debris of avalanches which have 
 cumbered the valley with vast rock masses and shattered trunks 
 of trees, swept from their places like grass before a scythe. 
 The hotel was not open, but I had the good fortune to meet a 
 fellov.'-townsman, the well-known artist, Mr. Forbes, of Toronto, 
 
 t^tpnWK««OMr^ - 
 
less 
 the 
 the 
 t)s or 
 
 cliff. 
 
 }aks. 
 
 inder 
 
 illey, 
 that 
 
 this 
 
 bing 
 
 The 
 
 oads 
 
 liave 
 
 inks 
 
 'the. 
 
 let a 
 
 mto, 
 
 In tuk Hkaut of thk Sklkikks. 
 
i'l 
 
 524 
 
 AMOXO THE ARTISTS. 
 
 who, with Mr. O'Brien and others of the artist brotherhood, 
 had been painting all summer among the mountains. He 
 
 Mountain Torrent. 
 
 hospitably placed a tent at my disposal, and not soon shall I 
 forget the glorious camp-fire around which we gathered at night 
 beneath the shadows of the surrounding mountains. 
 
 n-^f'ifmBmmmmnm 
 

 ■^ 
 
 *^^ ,A<M\f. '■^ti 
 
 
 »1*.V" 
 
 ["^ais-il 
 
 C*'^ 
 
 *"^f-'^'r *i^ 
 
 In the Selkikks— ViKw near Gl,vcier House. 
 
 ill? 
 
526 
 
 CLIMBING A GLACIER. 
 
 I found Mr. Forbes at work on a magnificent painting of 
 Mount Sir Donald, an isolated pyramidal crag piercing the 
 very sky, wonderfully like the Matterhorn in Switzerland. 
 This painting, and a companion piece of the Hermits, have 
 since been exhibited in the Toronto Art Gallery. I scrambled 
 over the glacier, I penetrated its translucent caves, I climbed 
 over the huge lateral mortiine, and I tried to climb the steep 
 wall of the deep valley over which this deep, slow-moving ice 
 river flowed. I should have enjoyed the climb very much 
 
 Glacier in the Selkirks. 
 
 better if I had not been handicapped with a revolver — the first 
 I ever carried in my life — which Mr. Forbes advised me to take, 
 as he had the day before seen a bear's track in the path. As I 
 clambered over the ice I was afraid the plaguey thing would go 
 off, and perhaps leave me hora de combat in some crevasse, or at 
 the foot of some crag or cliff. As I returned in the twilight I " 
 fired it off to announce my approach, and woke the immemorial 
 echoes of the mountain-girded valley. Not soon shall I forget 
 the dying gleam of the sunset on Mount Sir Donald, paling 
 from rosy red to ashen gray and spectral white. This spot will 
 
A TMOSPHERIC EFFECTS. 
 
 527 
 
 Ifirst 
 [ake, 
 
 LS I 
 
 go 
 br at 
 
 it I 
 prial 
 Irget 
 lling 
 
 will 
 
 become one of the greatest attractions of the mountains. Within 
 five days of Toronto one may study mountain scenery and 
 glacier action as well as in the heart of Switzerland. The tints 
 of the ice — a transparent blue, like sapphire — were exquisite 
 loveline.ss. 
 
 Mr. L. R, O'Brien, the accomplished President of the Ontario- 
 Art Academy, thus describes this lovely spot : 
 
 " The interest of this scenery is inexhaustible, not only fronv 
 the varied aspects it pre.seuts from different points of view, but 
 from the wonderfiil atmospheric effects. At one moment the 
 mountains seem quite close, masses of rich, strong colour; thea 
 they will appear far away, of the faintest pearly gray. At one 
 time every line and form is sharp and distinct ; at another, the 
 mountains melt and mix themselves up in the clouds so that 
 earth and sky are 
 almost undistinguish- 
 able. The mountain 
 sides are the softest 
 velvet now, and pres- 
 ently they look like 
 cast metal. The fore- 
 grounds, too, away 
 from the desolation 
 made by the numer- 
 ous cuttings and banks of the railway, are rich and luxuriant; 
 large-leaved plants and flowers clothe the slopes. The trees, 
 where the timbermen have not culled out the finest, are most 
 picturesque. The study of these scenes, in all the wealth of 
 their luxuriant detail, which is requisite in order at all to paint 
 them, is wonderfully interesting and delightful — painting them 
 is heart-breaking;— so little of all this beauty can be placed 
 upon paper or canvas, and of that little much, I fear, will be 
 incomprehensible to dwellers upon plains." 
 
 In this immediate vicinity great works were going on in the 
 construction of miles on miles of snow-sheds, — not slight sheds 
 to keep the snow off the track, as I supposed, but tremendous 
 structures built in solid crib-work filled with stone along the 
 mountain-side, over which is a sloping roof, with timbers- 
 
 
 The S.now S11EU8. 
 
 ^^_,.f 
 
 US' 
 
I 'Sli 
 
 
 MiKKOR Lake — In the Rockies. 
 
THE " TOTE KiKin:' 
 
 529 
 
 twelve Ity fifteen inches, <V ^i<,'neil to throw otl the avfthmclica 
 of rock, ico and snow from the overhang! nif mountains. Of 
 these sheds there are said to he four or five miles in all, con- 
 structed hy the labours of some f )ur thousand uten, at a cost of 
 a million and a half of dollars. The principal construction 
 camp is at Rof^ers' Pass, near (llacier Station. 1 walked hack 
 
 '!''^:rw!C5!PB!W 
 
 In TllK Il.LICILI.IWAKT 
 
 to it over the old "tote road," throut^h a most romantic valley, 
 in full view of the glorious glacier which wound its sinuous 
 way, a river of glittering ice, down the mountain-side. These 
 construction camps swarm with vile harpies, both men and 
 women, who pander to the vices of the workmen. Of over a 
 score of houses at Rogers' Pa-ss, I judge that three-fourths were 
 drinking saloons — or worse. A force of Mounted Police main- 
 34 
 
530 
 
 A CLhVS'J'A'CCT/O.y CAMP. 
 
 m 
 
 IS;, 
 
 Irr 
 
 tains order; but as tliis place is out of the Hi [uor prohibition 
 limits, it must for some time ut'ter pay-day be a veritable 
 pandemonium, all the more terrible because surrounded by such 
 
 a subhaie amphitheatre of the mountains of God. Yet the 
 religious needs of the men are not altojifether neglected. A poor 
 cripple, who had broken his leg in wrestling with a fellow- 
 
ROPE FERRY. 
 
 581 
 
 workman, told me that on Sunday, once a month, a little fellow 
 came to pi each in the camp. " Ho can't preach worth a cont," 
 
 he said, " but the men all swear by him because he is such a 
 good-hearted cuss." 
 
 P 
 
532 
 
 MOUNT HOOD. 
 
 Just beyond Glacier Station is one of the most remarkable 
 engineering feats on the line — a great loop which the road 
 makes, returning within a stone's-throw of the place of depar- 
 
 ture, but at a much lower level. It was on a glorious afternoon 
 on which I rode through the Selkirks along the brawling 
 lUicilliwaet, past Albert Canyon and the magnificent Twin 
 
a 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 » 
 
 u 
 
 c 
 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 1-! 
 
 loon 
 ;ling 
 .'win 
 
 MOUNT HOOD. 
 
 533 
 
 Mount Hood, ll,2'Jr> Fkkt Hicii. 
 
 Fraiil thr Culniiihin llinr. 
 
 
 if 
 
 Ik I 
 
534 
 
 ALBERT CANYON. 
 
 Buttes, through the valley of the Columbia, and up the wild 
 fforjre of Eagle Pass and Griffin Lake. The air was clear as 
 crystal, and the mountain peaks were cut sharp as a cameo 
 a^fainst the deep blue sky. The conductor obligingly stopped 
 the train at points of special interest to enable us to inspect the 
 gorge of Albert Canyoti, nearly three hundx'ed feet deep and only 
 twenty feet wide, with perpendicular sides smooth as a wall ; 
 and to scramble down to a natural soda fountain in another 
 romantic ravine. 
 
 Salmon Wheel and FisiiEnMAX. 
 
 At Revelstoke, which is a railway divis- 
 »»»'*''^ ional point, we cross the Columbia River on 
 
 a long bridge. The town is situated on the river bank, half a 
 mile from the station. The Columbia, which has made a great 
 detour around the northern extremity of the Selkirks, while 
 the railway has come directly across, is here much larger than 
 at Donald, from which it has fallen one thousand and fifty feet. 
 It is nivigable southward to the International boundary, two 
 hundred miles distant. The Gold range is at once entered by 
 Eagle Pass. 
 
 THE SALMON WHEEL. 
 
 The man who invented the western river salmon wheel 
 was a genius. The laziest fisherman who ever baited a hook 
 
FISHIXG BY MACHIXKRY. 
 
 535 
 
 could ask for no easier way of landing fish. And only the fact 
 that it can only be used at certain points on the stream pre- 
 vents this machine from exterminating the salmon in one 
 season. Imagine a common undershot wheel, with the buckets 
 turned the wrong way about. This is set in a high, narrow 
 flume near the bank of the river where the current is very 
 swift. From the down-stream end of this Huine, extended 
 outward, at an angle of forty-five degrees, are two upright 
 fences, formed by pickets driven closely together into the 
 bottom of the river, and wired to keep them from wa.shing 
 away. Just above the wheel (which is some ten feet in 
 
 SlIUSWAP L.\KE. 
 
 diameter), at the up-streatn end, is a platform, from which a 
 box-flume runs to the shore. This is the machine. Now let 
 us see how it works. When the salmon are ruiming, as every- 
 body knows, they come up the Fraser and Columbia rivers by 
 millions. The streams are very deep, and a large percentage 
 always succeed in getting to the breeding grounds in safety. 
 When salmon are running up a river they are constantly on 
 the lookout for small streams in which to spawn. Also, where 
 the current is very swift, they are unable to make headway in 
 the centre of the stream and consecjuently seek the more quiet 
 water near the bank. Of these two instincts, the inventor of 
 the fish wheel took a mean advantage. At the Cascades, for 
 
 I 
 
m 
 
 536 
 
 yLV UXFAIR ADVANTAGE. 
 
 instance, where tlie water is very swift, he sets his wheel. 
 Here come the fish, hugging the bank by thousands, great 
 black fellows, from two to four feet long, heading resolutely up 
 stream. Nothing can turn them backward. That wonderful 
 instinct of nature which insures the preservation of species is 
 nowhere better developed than in a salmon. But in this 
 instance it proves his destruction. Now they are just below 
 that widespread fence. The current which is rushing through 
 the flume and turning the big wheel at a lively pace attracts 
 their attention. The upper fence, which sets nearly squarely 
 across the stream, makes quiet water here, and this flow seems 
 to come from the bank. This, to the -salmon's mind, is evi- 
 
 Near Kamloofs. 
 
 dently the mouth of a sliallow creek. Here is a spawning 
 ground to our liking, and up this little stream we will go. So 
 they crowd up the two narrowing fences toward the fatal wheel. 
 The first fish reaches it, goes in with a rush to overcome the 
 current, is caught by a bucket and up he goes high in the air, 
 while every bucket brings up another and another till there is 
 a procession of ascending fi.sh. At the top the velocity throws 
 the fish violently upon the platform, from which he shoots 
 down the flume to a great tank on the shore. Here come the 
 fish, crowding each other forward to that busy wheel — none can 
 go under, nor to one side. None will go back. And once a 
 school starts for a wheel, the owner can consider that he has a 
 
538 
 
 A RECKLESS POLICY. 
 
 title-deed of the entire lot. One wheel will run a cannery. 
 Day and nii^ht, while the run lasts, they come ilying up the 
 wlieel and shooting down the flume, in a continuous stream. 
 Fortunately thei'o are but few places on the river where wheels 
 can be worked with this result. Where the fish can keep in 
 
 > 
 r 
 
 
 On Cakiboo Creek 
 
 the middle of the river few can be caught in this way. But the 
 men who control these points are making fortunes. As it is, 
 salmon are rapidly disappearing from the Columbia. 
 
 During the night we passed much fine scenery, of which I 
 got only partial glimpses as wo swept around the great curves 
 
A CLACTER. 
 
 539 
 
■■■■■Ili 
 
 £40 
 
 BLACK CANYON. 
 
 of the Thompson River, past Sicamous, Shuswap, Kamloops, 
 Savona's Ferry, and many another strangely named place, 
 destined yet to become familiar as scenes of blended sublimity 
 and beauty. 
 
 At Savona's Ferry the mountains draw near, and the series 
 of Thompson River canyons is entered, leading westward to the 
 Fraser through marvellous scenery. From here to Port Moody, 
 
 the nearest point on Pacific 
 tide-water, the raihvaj^ was 
 built by the Dominion Gov- 
 ernment and transferred to 
 the company, in 1886. Ashcroft is the point of departure 
 for Cariboo, Barkerville, and other settlements in the northern 
 interior of British Columbia. Trains of freijrht waggons, drawn 
 by from four to ten yoke of oxen, and strings of pack-mules, 
 laden with goods, depart from and arrive here almost daily, 
 pere the hills press close upon the Thompson River, which cuts 
 its way through a winding gorge of almost terrifying gloom 
 and desolation, fitly named the Black Canyon. At Thompson 
 Canyon the mountains draw together again, and the railway 
 
THE FRASER, 
 
 541 
 
 winds along their face hundred.s of feet above the struggling 
 river. At Lytton, 
 the canyon Middonly 
 widens to admit the 
 Fraser, the chief rivor 
 of the province, which 
 comes down from the 
 north between two 
 grrat lines of moun- 
 tain peaks. The rail- 
 way now enters the 
 canyon of the united 
 rivers and crosses a 
 cantilever bridge, the 
 scene becoming even 
 wilder than before. 
 
 A.nothi;k TiJnnkl. 
 
 
 THE FUASEll KIVEU. 
 
 y- 
 
 ts 
 m 
 )n 
 
 Btfore dawn I was at my post of ont- 
 
 look on the rear platform of the sleeper, 
 
 for the ride down the Fraser Valley is the 
 
 culminating point of interest on the road. 
 
 Here the difficulties of construction are 
 
 greater, the rock-cutting more tremendous, 
 
 and the .scenery more awe-inspiring than 
 
 any other place. It niakL's one's Hesh creep 
 
 to look down on the swirlinir current of the 
 
 rapid Fraser, from the train which creeps 
 
 alonjj a ledge cut in the mountain- 
 
 side, in some places by workmen let 
 
 down by ropes from above. On the 
 
 opposite side of 
 this deep, nar- 
 row canyon is 
 the old Cariboo 
 Road, climbing 
 the clitF in places, two thousand feet above the river. It is in 
 
 At the Cliff Foot. 
 
542 
 
 CARIBOO ROAD, 
 
 sonio |,ai'ts built out from thu wall of tlio roclc hy woodon crih- 
 
 work, fa.stonod.ono know.s not how, to tho aliuost perpendicular 
 
 precipice. Tlii.s road from Yalo toCarilioo, built by the isolated 
 
 Province of British Columbia a score of 
 
 years a;;o, seems a jjrreuter achievement 
 
 than the construction of the Canadian 
 
 Pacific Kaiiway by this great Dominion. 
 
 .Since the opening of the railway it has 
 
 fallen partly into disrepair. Yet within 
 
 a few months the Rev. C. Watson has 
 
 travelled over a great part 
 
 of it on horseback, in a ' 
 
 curriayo or on foot, lie 
 
 confessed, how- 
 ever, that .some 
 of the most dan- 
 gerous places al- 
 most frightened 
 the life out of 
 him. On our 
 train was Mr. VV. M. Pruyn, M.P. for 
 "•'■ '* '."'• ■ Lennox, who recounted his exploits in 
 
 tramping with a load on his back over 
 the Indian trail to Cariboo, a distance of four hundred miles, 
 before this road was made. In those palmy days sometimes 
 
 y^'v •-•■.•■.aw,'- ..I >• .% 
 
 '•I' L^' -I '- ■( •' 
 
 The Old Cariboo Road. 
 
.]//.\7.\(; /.//■/■: 
 
 r)4:} 
 
 iiiineiH took out as much as SsOO in a fsin(,'le day. Hut prices 
 wero corruspontlinijly lii<;li : 8100 was paiil for a .shect-inm 
 stove; !?1 a i)()un<l for salt; iii*') a pound for buttur ; Si for a 
 Weekly Glohc ; .i<l4 n day for (liJ,'<,'in!,^ 
 
 In some of the nidi' shanties, such as sliown in cut on pa<,'c 
 54."). a n»orc hicrative business was done than in many a mag- 
 niticcnt city warehouse. 
 
 The hardsliips of tlie miners in those early days seem, as told 
 to us now, almost incredible. Our engravings will give some 
 idea of the character of the 
 coiuitry, even after roads wero 
 constructed. But long before 
 there was anything but an 
 
 #i. 
 
 ^;l^%4ili^il 
 
 
 Befokf. the Railway. 
 
 Indian trail over the mountains, the miners "packed" on mule 
 trains the whole outfit necessary for their operation and sus- 
 tenance. In some places even mules could not go, and every- 
 thing had to be carried on the backs of men. 
 
 A peculiar ett'tict is produced by the contrast between the 
 huge boulders by the river side, covered with a deep brown, or 
 almost velvet-black moss, and the foaming, swirling waters of 
 the river. Indians are seen on projecting rocks down at the 
 water's edge, spearing salmon or .scooping them out with dip- 
 nets, and on many prominent points were Indian stagings 
 
IW 
 
 544 
 
 STKAXGIi lli'RIAL. 
 
 
 
 [^ f 
 
 \\ i 
 
 for drying and smoking the salmon, and in many of the trees 
 were " cached " the rude cotfms of their dead. The engraving 
 
 
 m 
 
 ■ t. , , 
 
 iwy 
 
 on page 4S6 shows a similar practice of disposing of the dead 
 by the Indians of the plains. Chinamen are seen on the 
 occasional sand or gravel-bars, washing for gold ; and irregular 
 
 l-jMlkiUmtm 
 
FRAS/:/^ CAXYOX. 
 
 5415 
 
 'A 
 
 § 
 ca 
 
 o 
 
 -5 
 
 o 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 Iclencl 
 
 the 
 
 kilar 
 
 Indian farms or villages alternate with the groups of huts of 
 tne Chinese. The principal canyon of the Fniser extends 
 
 twenty-throe miles above Yale. Tho scenery has licon well 
 desciilied as 'ferocious." The great river is foroeii Itetwctm 
 vertical walls of black rocks where, repeatedly thrown back 
 
 m 
 
 "i \ in 
 
 ■,i -S! 
 
 m 
 
 rr 
 
 if t : 
 V- \ . 
 ■j' ! - 
 
 I r 
 
 iB'.l 
 
 
 ■0.1 
 

 546 
 
 " FEROCIOUS " SCIC.XKR \ '. 
 
 upon itself by opposing cliffs, or broken l.>y ponderous masses 
 of fallen rock, it madly foams and roars. The railway is cut 
 into the clifl's two hundred feet above, and the juttinj^ spurs 
 of rock are jjierced Ity tuiinols in close succession. "At iSpuzzum 
 
 IN I 
 
 Rattlesnakk (Ikaiik, B.C. 
 
 the Government road, as if seeking company in this awful 
 place, crosses the chasm by a su.spension bridge to the side of 
 the railway, and keeps with it, above or below, to Yale. Ten 
 miles below Spuzzum the enormous cliffs apparently shut 
 
VALE. 
 
 547 
 
 together and seem to bar the way. The river inakas an abrupt 
 turn to the left, and the railway, turning to the right, disappears 
 
 into a long tunnel, and emerging 
 into daylight, rejoins the river." 
 
 At Yale— 
 
 i 
 
 a straggling 
 wooden town 
 of consider- 
 able impor- 
 tance in the 
 
 scenery is 
 
 have seen few things 
 that will compare with the grandeur of the mountain back- 
 ground of the little town, and with the gloom of the deep 
 canyon of the Fraser, deepening into purple shades in the dis- 
 tance. "Yale," says the excellent yuide book of the Canadian 
 
 :?i| 
 
 n 
 
 
 
648 
 
 A MINING TOWN. 
 
 Pacific Railway, "is an outfitting point for miners and raiichtnon 
 northward. It occupies a bench above the river in a deep <:id 
 de HUG in the mountains, which rise abruptly and to a great 
 height on all sides. Indian huts are seen on the opposite bank, 
 and in the village a conspicuous joss-house indicates the pres- 
 
 Oh Tiir. LdWKu Fkaskii. 
 
 enco of ( !hinamon, who an; so(!ii wasliiiig goM on the rix'cr-liurs 
 for II long way below Yale. Across the river froni Hope 
 Station is the village of the same name — a mining-town and 
 trading-post, whence trails lead over tlie mountain in diHererjfc 
 directions. South-westward may be st^en Ifope Peaks, where 
 great bodies ot silver ore are expost'd, and only awaiting suit- 
 
■^'^ 
 
 ':' I 
 
 hars 
 
 \o\w 
 
 arm 
 
 [rciit 
 
 liero 
 
-•^i 
 
 Cy'A) 
 
 11 IE IA)WI:R IRASIIR. 
 
 altin I'licI to l)(! worUctI prolitahly. liclow IIopo tlui canyon 
 wi<l('ii.s out, nnd is soon HUCCccdiMl Ity a Itroml, l(!V('I vallc^y with 
 ricli soil and Iitiavy tlnihor. TIk; tudo Indian farins i,nv(! pliic*; 
 to l)ro!id, Wdll-cultivatod litilds, which Ix.'coiiio nion; and nion* 
 fVc(|u<*nt, and vcj^ctation of all kin<l.s rapidly increases in Inxu- 
 liiiiicc as tlio Pa('ili(! is a|)proiicli('d." TIk! ('anudian I'acilic. 
 JlaiKvay is \ni(|U('stional>ly dcsstincd to hcconio ono of tin' i,'r('at 
 toniist routes of the world. Old travellers, who hav(! crosserl 
 the other tnuis-continentnl routes, say that the < 'anadian I'acilic 
 surpasses tluiui all in the nia^^nilicM'tuio ol' its sctenery. 
 
 "Near I lurrison Station the Harrison lliver is (crossed just 
 ahove its conlluence with the Kras(!r. Until tli(! openine- oi' the, 
 Frasor route, in lM(i4, the ordy access to the nortlu^rn intt^rior 
 of the |)rovinc(! was hy way of the llnrrison valley. A few 
 niil(!S lic^yond Niconien, .Mount llaker conies into view on th(^ 
 left, and miles away - a heautifid isohited cone, risini;' thirteen 
 thousand feel, aliove the railway level. At Mission is nn ini- 
 |)ortant lloman Oatholic Indian st-hool. Mij^ht miles heyond, iit 
 the crossin<4' of the Stave River, the linesl, view of Mount linker 
 is had, looking' hack and up tlus Krascr, which has now lM!(;oiiie 
 a smooth hut miijhty river. hnm(>ns(' trees are now fre(|iient., 
 and tluiir size is indicateil hy the enormous stumps near the 
 railway.' 
 
 The lower reaches of th(! Kraser ahound in fertile! valleys, 
 enriched hy the alluvium hiNnji^ht flown for a/^cs hy the river. 
 Everywhere (MiinA;ii> II swarm, ami on many a liar, filiandoiied 
 hy whiti' nuti, \xs\' patiently washiii!^ out a small ipiantily of 
 ;^old. Their m'at i^'arden patch.es and wooden hous(!s are 
 evidences of thrift and industry. 
 
 TMK i';U'ii"k; coast. 
 T1i<> first si.Jit of aiiy jjjreat featurt; of nature — as the Alps, 
 the Mediterraneati, tlur l'rairi(!s, the lloekies, tlui I'acilic -cannot 
 fail to kindle somewhat the iniaifiiuition. Vet tlu^ asper-t of the 
 waters (»t' the Pacific, at i'ort Moody, was prosaic in tlw; extnjtnc 
 — a dull, cloudy sky, a lead-eoloairt'il e.Kpans(i of unrullled water, 
 a hnck".,M'ound of lin'-swept hills, with a few straL,'<4lin^ houses ; 
 that Was the pictur(>. Krom here to Vancouver the railway 
 
so HI. I: SCI:M:RV 
 
 ■* * i 
 
 followH tlio south .shoro of litirrard Iiilct; tlin outlook is iin|)ri'^- 
 Nivoly tloli^'litful. Snow-tipped inoutitiiiiis, huautil'ul in I'oiin and 
 
 ■A 
 
 col()\ir, lisf! opposite, and am vividly rcllrcted in tlm tnirror- 
 lii\e waters of tlu; dncp-si^a inlet. At intervals alonj,' tlie heavily 
 wooded shores an; mills with villafjos aronnil them, and with 
 
 4 ■■ 
 
 
552 
 
 VANCOUVER CITY, 
 
 ocoan steamships and sailiiij? crat't loaded with sawn timber for 
 all parts of the world; on the other hani, and towering hi<^h 
 above, are |,'ij,'untic trees, twenty, thirty, and even forty feet 
 in circumference. 
 
 The appearance of thinj^s materially improved as we dropped 
 down the harbour to Vancouver City. The shores became 
 bolder; the forest of l)ou<,dtts tirs fresher in verdure and 
 more stupendous in size ; the water deeper, clearer, bluer. Van- 
 couver City was all bustle an<l activity. Within about three 
 months after the Hre four hundred houses were erected ; niuny 
 of them, of course, very Himsy, and a sad j)roportion of them 
 drinkinij saloons. I was told some harrowin<; .stories about 
 the appallinj,' suddenness and utter destructiveness of the 
 calamity. The dry wooden town burned like tinder, and twenty- 
 four charred bo<lies were found amonj,' the ruins. The city 
 fronts on (Joal Harbour, a widening of Hurrard Inlet, and «j.k- 
 tends across a strip of land to English IJay, along the .shore of 
 which it is now reaching out. The situation is most perftjct 
 as reganls picture.scjuencss, natural drainage, harbour facilities, 
 and commercial advantages. 
 
 The place is destined to be a large and busy port, and an im- 
 portant i"nl,r(ij)ot of the trade with Australia, China, and Japan. 
 It has now (IMSH) over five thousand inhabitants, several miles of 
 well-ma<le stretjts, and is lighted by gas and electricity. Then; 
 is a regular steamship service to China and .bipan, to Victoria, 
 San Krancisco, Alaska and Puget Scnind port-. (Jreat mills 
 abound on both ^ides of the broad basin. Where to-<lay sjjreads 
 this bu.sy city, with great hotels and commi rcial bloi ks, a very 
 few years ago the ru<le shanty .shown on page ')')], furnished 
 only acconnnodation for the traveller. The coinitry south, 
 towards the Kraser, has tine farms, an<l is especially adapted to 
 fruit-growing. The e(;al supply comes from Naiiaimo, directly 
 across the Ciulf of CJeorgia, and almost within sight. Tliu 
 .scenery all about is magnificent — the Cascade Mountains nwir 
 at hand at the north ; the mountains of Vancouver Island 
 aero.ss the water at the west ; the Olympics at the south-vve.st ; 
 an<l the great white cone of Moiuit Baker looming up at ilm 
 south-east. Opportunities f(jr sport are utdimited — mountain 
 
(;: 
 
 GUI. I' OF (UjiNilfA. 
 
 r).)3 
 
 fjoats, litnir and <l«or in the hills alon<' tin; inlot ; trout-fisliinff 
 in tho niuiintain atieariis; an<l .soa-tishinLj in endlo.ss variety. 
 
 VANCOIIVKIl ISLAM). 
 Tlio iseven liotirs' sail across the nohle (iulf of Georgia to 
 Vancouver Island was very exhilarating. So .solitary was the 
 voyage that it almost seemed as if 
 
 Wo wcro tli(! tirHt timt ovir JtuiHt 
 Into that HJIitiil. HcH. 
 
 The only vessel we saw was a large timber-laden Norwegian 
 barcjue. To one unaccustomed to seafaring it i.s a great sur- 
 
 'III 
 
 NoKWEdlAN IJAKyUE. 
 
 prise to ."-ce a full-rigg(!d .sliip, apparently swallowed up by the 
 .sea, a.s shown in our cut, and tlien heaved high on a huge wave. 
 The view of the bold .shore and serrated rocky j)eaks of the 
 mainland was very impressive. As we threaded a ma/e of 
 islands the cheerful signs of habitation were seen, and a.s wo 
 entered at night tlit; beautiful hai-bour of Victoria, the far- 
 gleaming electric lights, (juivering on the water, gave evidence 
 of the latest triumphs of civilization in this western Ultima 
 Thuleof Canada. As an illustration oi" tlx; polyglot population 
 of these ."-hores, I may mention that a Negro, a Chinaman, and 
 a Siwash Ijidian prepared diruier on the steuuier for a company 
 representing many countries, provinces and States. 
 
 The island of Vancouver has u length of nearly three hun- 
 
 m 
 m 
 
 ■& 
 
5:)J. 
 
 VANCOVVFK ISI.AXn. 
 
 <lr»;(l milos, unil aluut fifty in width on an avonvi;o, and lias 
 HonM} tliirt(!(.'n tlioiis'inil s(|uan' inilos of ti.'rritory. MiKrl) of its 
 snrfact! is mountainous, and produces l>ut iittli'. Its low-lyin-^ 
 hills and valleys produce ex(!ellent ^'rass, lirw; 'jiy\\/\\v^ for 
 doiiiesbic animals. Tlu! most valiiaMe land and principal 
 settlements are on the eastm n and southern shoi'es. Victoria, 
 which has twelve thousand peophi, is tli(i lar;,'est of all the 
 towns. 
 
 The Pacilicsiile is inhahiU'd chielly hy Indians, <»f whom there 
 
 l.N Till', V,\i\,v tiK (Ji;<'U(irA. 
 
 aro Homci sovon thousand. Catchinff this fur seal and lialihut 
 is their U'adin<^ ])ursuit, and they may Ik; said to livo in their 
 canoes. They surjinss the trihcs of tlu; mainland in point of 
 intcllij^enco and aptness for various Uinds of lahour. The Al>t 
 trihe is extensively known for its skilful work in S'^ld, silver, 
 wood, bone and stone. Their nuinufacttues of these materials 
 command hij^h prices, and are a source of considerate roveniu! 
 to the island. The centre of coal-mining on the island is the 
 town of Nanaimo, a thriving port with a line iiarliour, 
 
iWC/Oh'/.U 
 
 i)i>.> 
 
 thoro 
 
 halil'Ut 
 In their 
 point oi' 
 h.(! Al)t 
 ll, silviir, 
 liatciiiils 
 Iroveniu; 
 |l is tho 
 imrbour, 
 
 I- 
 
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IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 // 
 
 
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 1.25 1.4 1.6 
 
 " 
 
 ■• 6" 
 
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 V] 
 
 # 
 
 ^/). 
 
 
 
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 /A 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 Wt>' MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 
 
 (716) 873-4503 
 

m 
 
 5dG 
 
 VANCOUVER ISLAND. 
 
 some sixty miles from Victoria. There were three hundred and 
 fifty thousand tons shipped from this port to California in one 
 year. 
 
 At Victoria my attention was called to a small steamer, closely 
 wedged between two superior crafts, a little way from our dock. 
 
 " That steamer," said an English sea-captain, " is the first 
 boat that ever turned a wheel in the Pacific Ocean. She is 
 the old Beaver. She was built in London, and left that po^t 
 for Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia River, in 1838. She was, 
 and is now, a boat of prodigious strength, and has been in 
 service all these years. Tiiere is barely a sunken rock in all 
 this vast system of inland waters that she has not found, not 
 because she sought it, but because she struck it. At the next 
 dock above lies another, the mate of the Beaver, and the second 
 steamer to plow the Pacific." 
 
 The Eastern tourist is first struck with the exceedingly bland 
 atmosphere of Vancouver Island. Though the month was 
 October, the air was balmy, the sun warm, the foliage green, and 
 the roses, pinks and dahlias were in full bloom in the gardens. 
 At the pleasant home of the Rev. William Pollard, who is held 
 in loving memory by many in old Canada, and who made many 
 inquiries after his old friends, I was presented with one of the 
 most lovely and fragrant bouquets of roses I ever saw. The 
 streets, banks, hotels, public buildings and private residences of 
 Victoria would do credit to many an older and larger city. 
 There are several excellent churches, conspicuous among which 
 are the Anglican and Presbyterian. The Methodist church 
 is handsome and commodious, and was undergoing improvement 
 and the addition of a new brick school-room. I had the ple&sure 
 of twice preaching to large and intelligent congregations, of 
 attending two Chinese services and one Indian Sunday-school, 
 during a busy Sunday in this westernmost city of Canada. 
 
 The chief glory of Victoria is the delightful drives in its 
 vicinitj'. There does not appear to be the same feverish rush 
 of business as in the East, if one might judge from the large 
 turn-out of carriages at an open-air concert on Beacon Hill, 
 given by the band of the 'flag-ship of Her Majesty's North 
 Pacific Squadron. 
 
THE OLYMPICS. 
 
 557 
 
 My genial friend, the Rev. W. Percival, drove me out to the 
 naval station at Esquimault by a most romantic road. A long 
 arm of the sea penetrates far inland, and between denseh* 
 wooded banks the tide swirls in and out with tremendous force. 
 The varied view of &ea and land, obtained from a lofty knoll, 
 with, in the distance, beyond the Gulf of Georgia, the penrly 
 opalescent range of the Olympian Motintains, was one of the 
 
 The Olympian Raxob, kkdm Est^uiMAULT Harroub. 
 
 most exquisite I ever saw. The clouds above were gorgeous 
 with purple, rose pink, silver gray and glowing gold, while 
 the far-shimmering, sunset-tinted mountain-peaks seemed too 
 ethereal for earth. They were surely like the gates of pearl 
 and walls of precious stones of the New Jerusalem. In the 
 south-east rises Mount Baker in a beautiful isolated cone to the 
 height of thirteen thousand feet. 
 The harbour at Esquimault, three miles from Victoria, is one 
 
ESQUIMAULT. 
 
 559 
 
 
 w 
 
 < 
 
 H 
 
 3 
 
 of tlie finest in the world. It is the rendezvous of the North 
 Pacific Squadron, and has a magniRceut new dry dock, 400 feet 
 lonjj, of solid stone, with iron gates. Several war-vessels were 
 at anchor, including the flag-ship — a huge sea-kraken — painted 
 white, I suppose to secure greater coolness between decks during 
 her tropical cruise. As we were too late to go on board, Mr. 
 Percival kindly arranged a pleasant family excursion for Monday 
 morning. To a landsman the exploration of one of these 
 floating forts is full of interest Everything was as clean and 
 bright as holy-stone or rubbing could make it — the decks, 
 the brass mountings, the burnished arms, down to the buttons 
 
 In EsiQUiMADLT Habbuub. 
 
 on the smart uniforms of the marines. A courteous orderly 
 conducted us everywhere, from the captain's cabin to the cooks 
 galley, and explained the operation of the big breech-loading 
 battery, of the torpedoes, and of the tremendous engines of the 
 ship. Between decks was a perfect arsenal, with cannon, stands 
 of muskets, cutlasses, revolvers, and bayonets on every side. 
 The hammocks were all trussed up and stowed along the bul- 
 warks during the day. We saw only one slung, and that was in 
 the hospital, where a sick cadet was swinging at his ease. One 
 thing excited my amazemrnt. A bugle call rang shrilly and a 
 boatswain piped all hands to grog. A man from each mess 
 scurried with alacrity and a tin can — that is a fine zeugma for 
 
mm 
 
 m 
 
 660 
 
 G/iOG RATIONS. 
 
 you — to a big tub of very strong-smelling Jamaica rum, where 
 a generous libation was dipped into each can. We were told 
 that a sailor might commute his grog for a penny or two a day 
 — but they all seemed to prefer the rum. Strange that the 
 naval authorities should thus ply the jack-tars with temptation, 
 and then punish them for indulging beyond the regulation 
 allowance when they go ashore. On our way home we met 
 three jolly tars, for whom the road seemed too narrow as they 
 staggered from side to side. The Church owes an important 
 duty to these homeless sea-dogs, who swarm in every port, for 
 whom the vilest temptations are spread the moment they set a 
 foot ashore. 
 
 A BURDKN-BEAKEK. ' 
 
 The very day that I landed in Victoria the Vancouver Island 
 Railway was formally opened as far as the great coaling har- 
 bour of Nanaimo, and the scream of the iron horse awoke the 
 immemorial echoes of the forest primeval. To my great regret, 
 however, my time was so limited that I could not make the 
 run to see my old comrade and college friend, the Rev. E. Robson, 
 the oldest Methodist missionary, I think, on the Pacific Coast. 
 
 One of the most sticking features of Victoria is the large 
 number of Chinese.. They swarm everywhere. In all the 
 streets you meet their blue blouses, thick shoes and long queues. 
 They seem to do most of the burden-bearing of the city, with 
 
CHINESE QUARTER. 
 
 661 
 
 big baskets at the ends ot bamboo poles across their shoulders. 
 They keep many of the small huckster-shopa They do most of 
 the market gardening. They are almost exclusively the servants 
 of the hotels and private houses. Whole streets are given up 
 
 YoDNO China. 
 
 to their stores and dwellings. One of these is named Cormorant 
 Street, not from the exorbitant nature of their charges, as I 
 partly apprehended, but from the name of one of Her Majesty's 
 ships of war. Occasionally may be seen the dumpy, waddling 
 
66S 
 
 CHINESE ART. 
 
 figures of the few Chinese women of the city, with very shiny 
 hair, rich silk pelisses with wide sleeves, in which, in cold 
 weather, their hands disappear, with very wide trousers, and 
 thick-soled embroidered shoes. Their faces are often quite 
 
 Chinese Abtist. 
 
 pretty, with bright almond-shaped eyes, and an innocent, almost 
 infantile expression of countenance, though many of them are 
 said to be anything but innocent. 
 The little children are the funniest of all — like miniature 
 

 it 
 
 e 
 
 A Chinese Oentlebiak. 
 
 f 
 
•7^^mmf^^^''ymimmyi'^!^ 
 
 Mi 
 
 JOSS-HOUSE. 
 
 ! 
 
 men and women, with their pigtails, and blouses, and pelisses^ 
 and thick shoes, that clatter like clogs as they walk along the 
 sidewalk. Their parents seem very fond of them. I shook 
 hands with one old-fashioned little thing, whereupon its father 
 told it to make me a bow, which it did repeatedly, very prettily. 
 
 In the Hudson Bay Company's fine store I met a very intel- 
 ligent Chinaman. I asked him where I eould get Chinese 
 curios and the like. He wrote his address in an excellent hand, 
 and invited me to call at his store. I did so, and was very 
 courteously received. He offered me a fine Manilla cigar, which 
 I declined, and showed me some exquisite carved ivory and the 
 like — quite too expensive for my purse, however. While 
 retaining their natural dress, the Chinese merchants have much 
 of the dignity and politeness of European gentlemen. Our cut 
 gives a not too-favourable representation of a Chinese of the 
 better class. Their imitative faculty is highly developed and 
 they make excellent copyists though not good original artists. 
 Their perspective is often atrocious, though their portraits are 
 sometimes " as like as they can stare." 
 
 I was struck with a curious illustration of Chinese respect 
 for letters. At almost every corner was a painted box, affixed 
 to the wall, to receive, I was told, scraps of papar picked up ofi 
 the street, that they might not be trodden under foot. 
 
 One of the most curious places I visited was a so-called joss- 
 house. It was gorgeously fitted up in exceedingly bizarre and 
 barbaric pomp, with stands of gilt halberds and swords, a huge 
 embroidered silk umbrella with deep fringe, gay lanterns, 
 banners, and shrines with wonderfully carved dragons and high 
 reliefs of tilt and tourney, representing the exploits of the 
 mythological warriors, I was told, of seven thousand years ago. 
 Chinese architecture has a peculiarity of its own, a barbaric 
 wealth of carving, gilding and crimson and yellow colours. 
 
 The Chinese I found very courteous, and anxious to give any 
 information in their power. This they do in loud explosive 
 tones, in broken English, with frequent inquiries of " Sahe / " 
 a Spanish word, which they use for " Do you understand ? " 
 In the joss-house just mentioned, I observed a large figure in 
 a sort of shrine, with the hand raised as if in benediction. I 
 
**SABEr 
 
 MS 
 
 •sked the caretaker or priest, or whatever he was, if this was 
 Buddha. He replied, " Yes." I then asked who a black-faced 
 iij^ure by his side was. He replied, " Big man — him big boss, 
 oder man help him. Sabe 7 " I inquired what certain cups 
 and vessels and lamps before the shrine were for. " Me feed 
 him, me warm him," he answered ; " me give him tea and food. 
 
 A Chinesi Joss-Housi. 
 
 n 
 I 
 
 Sabe? Man no sick, do well, make good sale, him pay one 
 dollah, two dollah, four bit to feed him. Sabe ? " and he showed 
 the book in which the subscriptions were recorded. " Him pay 
 well, help him good," said my guide. "Allee time good, go up. 
 Bad man, go down." I asked him if he had heard of Jesus 
 Christ. "Yes, yes," he exclaimed. "Him allee same Jesus 
 Chlist," and he pointed to the image, whose gorgeous surround- 
 
PP"P<P 
 
 mmmw 
 
 066 
 
 A PURCHASED WIFE, 
 
 inga h« said were to "make look pliiiy" (pretty). I wa* 
 haunted all the time with the feeling that here in the heart of 
 our Christian civili^tion was a fragment of that vast system 
 of paganism to which well-nigh one-third of our race is in 
 bondage. 
 
 Mr. Gardiner, the missionary to the Chinese, tells a good 
 story which illustrates the appreciation even of the " heathen 
 Chinee " of the obligations of Christianity. Mr. Vrooman, who 
 was also a Customs official, had shown some courtesy to a couple 
 of Chinamen, when one of them offered him a cigar, whereupon 
 the other interposed to prevent him, saying, " Him no smokee. 
 Him Jesus man." Would that all J:3us men came up to the 
 expectations of this poor pagan. 
 
 Some of the Chinese are very wealthy, and some of them 
 have superior administrative and executive ability. I conversed 
 with one on the railway train who told me that he had charge 
 of the construction of a section of the railway, and employed 
 five hundred Chinamen. He paid them from four bits — 50 
 cents — to $1.50 a day. He professed to be somewhat of a 
 phrenologist, and criticized with much shrewdness and humour 
 the heads of the passengers. 
 
 I was greatly interested in one stout old fellow going to 
 Cariboo, where he told me he had three hundred Chinamen 
 washing gold for him. Wah Lee was his name. He was 
 reputed to be worth $70,000; He was taking home with him 
 a new wife, a pretty little creature about four feet high. She 
 wore— this is for wj lady readers — a pale pink silk tunic with 
 dark skirt and very wide silk trousers — I know no other name 
 for them — and dainty embroidered shoes with thick white soles. 
 She wore an over-pelisse of dark blue figured silk, with a 
 striped border of old gold and black. Her hair, which was very 
 black, was smoothly parted— ever so much prettier than the 
 " bongs " — and she wore no head covering but a very bright- 
 coloured coronet of artificial flowers. She looked like a pretty 
 doll. She was accompanied by her sister, a fat little dumpling 
 of ten years. Both carried handsome fans. 
 
 The old fellow told me, without any reserve, his whole 
 domestic history. He was fifty-three years of age, had a wife 
 
 r ! *■' 
 

 CRUEL SLAVERY. 
 
 667 
 
 in China, and a son af(ed thirty. His old wife would not come 
 out to him, so she had sent him a new one. He had paid $280 
 for her. She was seventeen years of a^^e ; the little sister was 
 thrown into the bargain. He wore a handnome silk fur-lined 
 pelisse, which was worth, he said, $60. He told me, also, the 
 cost of his wife's jewellery, but I forget the particulars. 
 
 The little bride, I am afraid, was not in love with her liege 
 lord. When he went into the dining-car for supper she refused 
 to follow him, bub lay with her pretty 
 little head on the hard arm of the 
 seat, declining to speak. I should 
 say, in English, that she was in a fit 
 of the sulks ; and small blame to her, 
 as the man who had purchased her, 
 as he would a dog or a horse, was an 
 obeij and ugly fellow thrice her age. 
 I suggested that she would be more 
 comfortable by changing her posi- 
 tion, so that every passer-by would 
 not brush against her dainty flower- 
 crowned head ; but he replied with 
 indifference, " Oh, she all lite," — i.e., 
 "all right" And yet one-third of 
 all the women of the race are the 
 victims of a bondage often as cruel 
 as that — often much more so — for 
 she was a rich man's purchased pet, 
 while most of the Chinese women in 
 America, and many in their own land, 
 are the slaves of the vilest tyranny 
 of body and soul that words can express or mind conceive. 
 Here is work for Christian women on behalf of their heathen 
 sisters — to reach them in their degradation, to clothe them with 
 the virtues of Christianity, to raise them to the dignity of 
 true womanhood, to the fellowship of saints. 
 
 I am glad that the Methodist Church has entered the open 
 door of opportunity thus set before it in the city of Victoria. 
 I had the pleasure of twice attending the services of the Chi- 
 
 The Little Bride. 
 
 4 \r-r. 
 
5G8 
 
 CHINESE MISSIONS. 
 
 nese Methodist Mission, and was greatly impressed with the 
 value of the good work being done. When Dr. Sutherland 
 was in Victoria, in 1885, he baptized and received into Church 
 membership eleven Chinese converts. These, I found, 1 think 
 without exception, amid discouragements and persecution, hold- 
 ing fast to their Christian profession. A home for Chinese 
 women rescued from bondage to sin has also been successfully 
 established. 
 
 A most valuable missionary has been found in Mr. Gardiner, 
 an accomplished Chinese scholar, who devotes himself with 
 enthusiasm to the work. It was very impressive to hear him 
 go over with his Chinese congregation the Ten Commandments 
 and the Lord's Prayer, in both English and Chinese, and to hear 
 them sing the familiar doxology and such hymns as " Blest be 
 the tie that binds," and others, in their strange foreign tongue. 
 I had the privilege of addressing, through him, this interesting 
 congregation. On being introduced to several of them they 
 exhibited much intelligence and thankful appreciation of the 
 provision made for their religious and secular instruction. It 
 is a remarkable fact, that the attendance at the purely religious 
 meetings is much larger than that at tlue classes for secular 
 instruction. 
 
 PACIFIC COAST INDIANS. 
 
 The large number of Indians on the Pacific Coast presents 
 another important element in the missionary problem in that 
 country. Though by no means, as a whole, a very high type of 
 humanity, they are yet much superior to the Indians of the 
 plains whom I saw. There is a little cove in Victoria harbour 
 where the boats of the West Coast Indians most do congregate. 
 These are large, strong canoes, each hewn out of a single log. 
 Many of them will carry a dozen persons or more. In the 
 National Museum, at Washington, is one from Alaska over 
 sixty feet long, and five or six feet wide. In these they sail 
 for hundreds of miles along the coast, fishing, sealing, and 
 hunting, and bringing the result of their industry to Victoria 
 for barter. The chief peril they encounter at sea is that their 
 wooden craft may split from stem to stern through the force of 
 the waves. These dug-outs are fantastically carved and painted. 
 
TOTEM POLES. 
 
 669 
 
 Several of them lay in the little cove just mentioned, their 
 owners sound asleep, or basking half-awake in the sun. The 
 men have short squat figures and broad flat faces, with a thick 
 thatch of long black hair, both head and feet being bare. The 
 
 •women wear bright partl-coloured shawls, and frequently a 
 profusion of rings, necklaces, artd other cheap jewellery. I saw 
 some with rings in the nose and copper bracelets on their arms. 
 A little family group were roasting and eating mussels on the 
 rocks. A not uncomely Indian woman gave me some. They 
 were not at all unpalatable, and if one only had some .salt and 
 
570 
 
 MISSION WORK. 
 
 bread, would make a very good meal. But roast mussel alone 
 was rather unappetising fare. A pretty black-eyed child was 
 playing with a china doll, and another had a little toy-rabbit. 
 It is quite common to see these Indian women squatting 
 patiently on the sidewalk hour after hour — time is a commodity 
 of which they seem to have any quantity at their disposal. 
 
 It is among these poor creatures, too often the prey of the 
 white man's vices, and the victims of the white man's diseases, 
 that some of the most remarkable missionary triumphs on this 
 continent have been achieved. The totem poles shown in one 
 of our engravings are not the " idols " of the Indian tribes, as 
 
 IsDiAN Orates. 
 
 has been asserted, but their family cresta The Indians have 
 quite a heraldry of their own, and some of the carvings are 
 certainly as grotesque as any of the dragons, griffins or wy vems 
 of the Garter-King-at-Arms. 
 
 Few things exhibit stronger evidence of the transforming 
 power of Divine grace than the contrast between the Christian 
 life and character of the converted Indians, and the squalor and 
 wretchedness of the still pagan Indians on the reserve near the 
 city. In company with the Rev. Mr. Percival, I visited this 
 village. The house, like most of the Indian lodges on the West 
 Coast, was a large structure of logs with slab roof, occupied in 
 common by several families, but divided into a number of 
 
LITTLE JLU. 
 
 571 
 
 stall-like compartments. Each family had its own fire upon 
 the bare earth floor, and its own domestic outfit. This is very 
 meagre — a few woven mats, a bed upon a raised dais, a few 
 pots and pans. As we entered, a low plaintive croon or wail 
 greev'^ed our ears. This, we found, came from a forlorn-looking 
 woman in wretched garb, crouching beside a few embers. As 
 we drew near she lapsed into sullen silence, from which no 
 effort could move her. 
 
 Yet that these poor people have their tender affections we 
 saw evidence in the neighbouring graveyard, in the humble 
 attempts to house and protect the graves of their dead. I 
 noticed one pathetic memorial of parental affection in a little 
 house with a glass window, on which was written the tribute 
 of love and sorrow, " In memory of Jim." Within was a child's 
 carriage, dusty and time-stained, doubtless the baby carriage of 
 Jim. An instinct old as humanity, yet ever new, led the sor- 
 rowing parents to devote what was most precious to the memory 
 of their child. Numerous similar evidences of affection were 
 observed in other Indian places of burial. 
 
 The history of the Indian missions of the Methodist Church 
 on the Pacific Coast is one of the most remarkable in missionary 
 annals. Of this we were strongly reminded as we visited, in 
 the city of Victoria, the neat and commodious Indian chapel, 
 whose cost was, to a considerable extent, defrayed by the 
 Indians themselves. Ib the presence of Mrs. Deix, one of the 
 principal agents in promoting this work, we heard its stoiy 
 recounted by Mr. McKay, one of its faithful helpers for many 
 years. 
 
 The first Indian mission services in the city were held in a 
 whiskey saloon hired for the purpose. There came one night 
 to the door Mrs. Deix, then a pagan chieftess, but her antago- 
 nism to Christianity would not allow her to enter. At length 
 her prejudice was overcome, she attended the services and was 
 soon f i'y Cx^ii verted. From that hour the burden of her 
 prayers was that her pagan son and his wife, six hundred 
 miles up the coast, might be brought to Victoria that they also 
 might be converted. Contrary to all human expectation, they 
 came, with a score of kinsfolk, in midwinter to Victoria. But 
 
572 
 
 MISSIONARY TRIUMPHS. 
 
 her faith was subjected to another trial. They refused to 
 attend the Christian worship, and mocked at her religious 
 convictions. The power of Christian song and Christian testi- 
 mony, however, overcame their prejudices, and soon the son 
 and wife and many more were converted, among them the 
 David Salasaton, who all too soon wore out his life in fervent 
 preaching the new joys of salvation among the northern tribes. 
 Dr. Puashon, who listened with delight to his burning words, 
 declared him to be one of the most eloquent speakers he ever 
 heard. 
 
 From this apparently inadequate beginning has come, in the 
 providence of God, the wonderfully successful Indian missions 
 at Port Simp.son, Bella-Bella, Bella-Coola and Naas River, with 
 their hundreds of converted Indians and transformed villages, 
 where Christian prayer and praise have succeeded the pagan 
 orgies of savage tribes. 
 
 Mrs. Deix, who is still a woman in the prime of life, and of 
 great energy of character, at the service we had the privilege to 
 attend, related in fervent words her Christian experience — first 
 in English, then, as her heart warmed, in her native tongue ; and 
 was followed in like manner by several others. The singing 
 was a special feature. The rich, sweet voices, and with a tear- 
 compelling pathos, they sang in their own tongue the familiar 
 tunes, "Rescue the Perishing," "Ring the Bells of Heaven," 
 and "Shall we Gather at the River?" 
 
 THE INLAND PASSAGE. 
 
 I had not the opportunity to visit the West Coast Indian 
 missions and the adjacent territory of Alaska, but I glean the 
 following account from Lieut. Schwatka's volume and from 
 other trustworthy sources : 
 
 Leaving Victoria 've pass through a congeries of islands, like 
 the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence on a greatly magni- 
 fied scale, when we enter the Gulf of Georgia, one of the widest 
 portions of the Inland Passage. Some forty or fifty miles 
 farther on, and we reach the first typical waters of the Inland 
 Passage — Discovery Passage — a narrow waterway between 
 high mountainous banks ; an extended salt-water, river-like 
 
THE INLAND PASSAGE. 
 
 573 
 
 channel, about a mile in breadth. At Seymour Narrows th& 
 channel is not much over half a mile wide, where the tides 
 rush through with the velocity of the swiftest rivers (said to be 
 nine knots at springtides). The shores are now getting truly 
 mountainous in character, ridges and peaks on the south side 
 bearing snow throughout the summer on their summits, four 
 thousand to five thousand feet high. Queen Charlotte Sound 
 is one of the few openings to the Pacific Ocean. Where 
 Magellan sailed over the Pacific Ocean it well deserved the 
 
 On the Inland Passaqk. 
 
 name ; but along i-he rough northern coast the amount of stormy 
 weather increases, and a voyage on this part of the Pacific is 
 not always calculated to impress one with the appropriateness 
 of the great ocean's name. The full sweep of the Pacific is 
 encountered and the steamer is often exposed to a very heavy 
 sea. It is very impressive to look from some rocky headland 
 over the vast Pacific and to realize that for four thousand milea 
 these waves roll on unimpeded till they break upon the shores 
 of the distant Empire of Japan. Especially impressive is this 
 at the set of sun, when the shadows of night mantle sea and 
 
574 
 
 SUNSET EFFECTS. 
 
 land. The Rov. Dr. Sutherland beautifully describes such a 
 scene as follows : 
 
 "A few years ago, while on a visit to our missions in British 
 Columbia, one evening, in company with a few others, I 
 climbed a hill whose summit commanded a view of the Pacific 
 Ocean. Before us lay a vision that will be treasured up in 
 memory's chambers through all the coming years. Behind us 
 was the gloomy forest and the toilsome way over which we 
 had journeyed, but before us the broad Pacific lay unrolled, so 
 near in that transparent atmosphere that we could see the 
 
 A Heavt Sea. 
 
 ripples on its bosom stirred by the evening breeze, and yet so 
 far that amid the solemn stillness there came to us no sound of 
 the wave that broke upon the distant reef. In the western 
 sky dappled clouds were anchored in the blue, through which 
 the rays of the setting sun streamed upon the sea in ever- 
 varying tints of purple and gold and amethyst, till every ripple 
 sparkled like burnished jewels set in a sapphire pavement. 
 And then as the sun sank still lower, and touched the ocean's 
 distant rim, the glowing tints all merged into one long trail of 
 splendour that stretched from the shore above which we stood, 
 
NORTHERN ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 575 
 
 all the way to another shore that seemed to lie just where the 
 sun was setting, as if God's angels had bridged, with beaten 
 gold, the surface of the gently heaving sea, making a pathway 
 of light over which departing souls might pass to the other 
 side. But a little longer and the golden glory softened into 
 almost silvery whiteness, which, when the sun disappeared, 
 merged in the neutral tints of a quiet sea, leaving only a 
 reflected splendour in the sky to tell of the brightness that had 
 been there." 
 The mainland is flanked throughout nearly its entire extent 
 
 Sunset on the Pacific. 
 
 by a belt of islands, of which the majority are sea-girt moun- 
 tains. Most aptly has this wave-washed region been termed 
 an archipelago of mountains and land-locked seas. In this 
 weird region of bottomless depths, there are no sand beaches 
 or gravelly shores. All the margins of mainland and islands 
 drop down plump into inky fathoms of water. 
 
 Along these shores there are numerous Indian fishing vil- 
 lages. One of the most remarkable of these was Metlakahtla. 
 A couple of years ago it was a flourishing village. The 
 story of the reclamation of the Indians from savagery and 
 paganism to civilization and Christianity, through the labours 
 
676 
 
 METLAKAHTLA. 
 
 of Mr. Duncan, a lay missionary of the Church of England, 
 is one of intense interest. But on account of dissensions 
 between Mr. Duncan and the officers of the Society, the 
 mission was broken up, and Mr. Duncan and his Indians 
 removed to Alaska. A recent visitor to this spot says : "There 
 is a certain pathos about Metlakahtla. It was a village of two- 
 storied houses, with street lamps, gardens, and shell-strewn 
 paths, where fruit has unequal luxuriance, whose harbour has 
 efficient shelter, where there is a cannery und a sawmill for 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 9 
 
 O 
 
 Natdre's Monument, Pacific Coast. 
 
 the employment of the people, the largest church in the prov- 
 ince, and a fine mission house. But now the houses are in ruins, 
 gaping windowless on the sea, the church mocks with hollow 
 echoes its scanty services, the cannery and saw-mill are broken 
 down, there are no children in the streets, no gatherings in 
 the public place, the guest-house that was once thronged with 
 many travellers has no path to it, and all the gardens are over- 
 grown and waste." A few of the exiled Indians are, it is said, 
 straggling back to their old home. 
 
 '• 
 
WEST COAST VILLAGE. 
 
 577 
 
 87 
 
678 
 
 PORT SIMPSON. 
 
 Port Simpson is twenty miles farther north, near the borders 
 of Alaska. Of it the writer last quoted says: " Fort Simpson is 
 perhaps more attractive than even Metlakahtla. The houses 
 are more numerous and better designed, and the place looks 
 prosperous. At the Methodist mission, which has a good 
 church, is an Industrial school wherein twenty-five Indian 
 girls are sheltered from impurity and taught to keep house. 
 Fort Simpson has an important Hudson's Bay Company's post 
 dating from 1830, and the log buildings, although defaced in 
 part with modern clap- board and paint have a little of the 
 natural frontier dignity which pervades the true Hudson '.«« 
 Bay factory. One of the bastions, and even some curtaileo 
 parts of the old stockade, still exi.st. There are now nine or 
 ten whites in the village. The houses occupy a point of land 
 and a little island forming part of the breakwater of the fine 
 circular bay, cited officially as the best of the British Columbian 
 harbours." 
 
 Here the Rev. Thomas Crosby and his dovoted wife have 
 been the means, in the hands of Providence, of working a 
 mora! miracle in the habits of the natives. The commodious 
 church was erected almost entirely at the expense of the 
 natives and numerous outlying missions at Bella-Bella, Bella- 
 Coola, Naas River, Port Essington, Queen Charlotte Islands, 
 and the Upper Skeena. For many years Mr. Crosby travelled 
 up and down the wild west coast in a native dug-out canoe, but 
 now the Glad Tidings, mission steam-yacht, furnishes a readier 
 means of access to the scattered mission stations. In this 
 heroic work he is nobly seconded by the Eev. Messrs. Green, 
 Jennings, Bryant and others, and by several native assistants. 
 The history of Christian missions on this coast is a chapter of 
 strangest romance and heroism. 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
 A few pages may be devoted to this north-west corner of 
 the North American continent. Alaska is sharply divided 
 from the Dominion of Canada by the 141st degree of west 
 longitude, from the Arctic Ocean to Mount St. Elias, thence by 
 an irregular line seldom more than thirty miles from the sea 
 
ALASKA. 
 
 679 
 
 to the 55th parallel — a further distance of six hundred miles. 
 It b eleven hundred miles long and eight hundred miles 
 
 
 
 
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 Fir Forest, Alaska. 
 
 broad, and has an area of five hundred and twelve thousand 
 square miles. Discovered in 1741 by a Russian expedition 
 
wma 
 
 S80 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
 under Bohring, at the cost of the f,'reat navigator'H life, it 
 came under the control of the Czar, who encouraj^ud the 
 planting of various independent Hottlenicnts until the year 
 1799, when Paul VIII. granted the whole territory to the 
 RusMO- American Fur Company, who established forty stationa, 
 and conducted a flourishing trade for luore than sixty years. 
 In 1HG7 it was purchased by the United States Qovernment 
 for $7,200,000. The greater part of the country is unknown, 
 but enouj^h of it has been explored by traders, scientists and 
 sportsmen to show that one of the world's greatest wonder- 
 lands lies withiji its boundaries. 
 
 The climate of Alaska is phenomenal. The warm waters of 
 the ocean give ofl' a copious moisture, which is thrown by the 
 winds against the snow-clad mountains and glaciers, and is 
 precipitated in thick mists and torrents of rain. At Sitka the 
 mean temperature is 49°'9, and the average rainfall eighty 
 inches. 
 
 For about one thousand miles from the southern extremity 
 of Vancouver's Island northwards, there stretches a vast archi- 
 pelago in the midst of which is the Inland Passage above 
 described. On reaching the Alaskan territory, snowy moun- 
 tain peaks begin to appear ; and higher still, crowns of ice 
 debouch in the shape of glaciers right down to the water's 
 level ; and, finally, all the wonders of the Arctic regions are 
 seen on a reduced scale. The Inland Passage terminates just 
 beyond Sitka, which, as New Archangel, was the capital of 
 Russian America. It is now the headquarters of the United 
 States authorities, and one of the three principal settlements. 
 It contains fifteen hundred inhabitants, and is the residence of 
 a Greek bishop. The surrounding scenery^ as shown in our 
 cut is magnificent. So mild and moist is the climate that the 
 grass here grows five feet high, dandelions are as large as asters, 
 and buttercups twice the usual size. In the forest-clad moun- 
 tain slopes the spruces grow to an enormous size, with remark- 
 ably dense foliage, and the rocks are covered with beds o£ moss 
 of great depth. 
 
 Round the co%st-line from Sitka Inlet an^ immense wall of 
 ice stretches for hundreds of miles, broken only by the estuaries 
 
SITKA. 
 
 Ml 
 
 of considerable rivers. Further on Mount St. Elios, an octive 
 volcano, rises, a mass of snow ond ice, twenty thousand feet 
 
 sheer from the ocean's edge which thunders at its base. Near 
 Mount St. Elias is the greatest cluster of high mountains on 
 the Western Continent — Lituya Peak, ten thousand feet 
 
9S! 
 
 I — •• 
 
 582 
 
 ST. ELIAS. 
 
 -fi 
 
 high ; Fairweather, fifteen thousand five hundred ; and Crillon, 
 still higher ; then, beyond, Cook and Vancouver cluster near 
 sublime St. Ellas, whose jagged top may be seen a hundred and 
 fifty miles to sea. How disappointing are the Colorado peaks 
 of twelve and fourteen thousand feet, for the simple reason that 
 they spring from a plain already six to eight thousand feet 
 above sea-level, and seem, as they are, but high hills on a high 
 plateau. How like pigmies they appear to Hood, Tacoma, 
 Shasta, and others, whoso every foot above sea-level is in 
 
 Alaskan Cliffs. 
 
 mountain slope. On the eastern side of St. Elias the coast 
 curves slightly to the south. A long promontory, cut up into 
 innumerable forest-fringed bays, and protected by a maze of 
 rocks and islets, reaches out into the Pacific, and tapers off" into 
 a grand chain of islands which stretch half way across to Asia, 
 and are covered with woods, prairies, and volcanoes. 
 
 Alaska is a land of mountains. Vast forests run up their 
 slopes, often to an altitude of two thousand feet, and are rich 
 in c€dar, spruce, alder, larch and fir, some of which develop 
 
 rea 
 
 loo 
 
 It 
 
 rea 
 
 wh 
 
BUYING FURS. 
 
 583 
 
 colossal proportions. The rivers swarm with salmon and trout. 
 The king salmon sometimes reaches a length of six feet, and 
 weighs about ninety pounds. It is for its sea-fisheries, how- 
 ever, that Alaska is most famous. Enormous quantities of 
 halibut, cod, smelt, flounders, etc., are caught on its coast. The 
 adjacent Aleutian Islands are the home of the fur seal. The 
 Yukon River is two thousand and forty-four miles long, in two 
 places upwards of twenty miles broad, fed by innumerable 
 tributaries of unknown length and capacity, and discharging, 
 it is alleged, a greater volume of water than any other river 
 in the world. 
 
 This great lonely land is said to have only thirty thousand 
 inhabitants, mostly Indians and Eskimo. The constant life of 
 some of the Indians on the water has produced a most prepon- 
 derating development of the chest and upper limbs over the 
 lower, so that their gait on land is like that of aquatic birds. 
 Stern experience has given the trading Indians a keen eye for 
 business, and they are at length discovering the value of the 
 products of their country. Once, when an Indian wanted a 
 ffun, for example, an old flint lock was produced, and he had to 
 pile skin upon skin until the heap reached the muzzle, and in 
 return for three or four hundred dollars' worth of furs he 
 would receive the antiquated but coveted weapon. The Hud- 
 soiis Bay Company employed, it is said, remarkably long- 
 barrelled guns in this traffic, but now the Indians understand 
 the value of furs as well as the purchaser. Some of the 
 Indian houses are quite respectable, being made with cedar, 
 with a polished floor, and handsomel)' adorned. Most of the 
 habitations, however, are squalid beyond measure. The dense 
 resinous smoke blackens the walls and fills the house with 
 fumes which are sufficiently diagreviable without the odour of 
 decayed salmon, with which they are usually impregnated. 
 
 After crossing the International boundary the first settlement 
 reached is Wrangell, which is a tumble-down, dilapidated- 
 looking town, in a most beautifully picturesque situation. 
 It is the port to the Cassiar mines in British Columbia, 
 reached by the Stickeen River, a most picturesque stream, 
 which pierces the Coast Range through a Yosemite valley more 
 
 I 
 
 il 
 
 \ 
 
tmm 
 
 584 
 
 S/T/CA SOUND. 
 
 th; 
 bo 
 
SITKA. 
 
 585 
 
 than a hundred miles long, from one to three miles wide at the 
 bottom, and from five thousand to eight thousand feet deep. 
 
 Sitka, the capital of Alaska, is most picturesquely located at 
 the head of Sitka Sound ; its bay is full of pretty islets. The 
 steamer, after winding its way through a tortuous channel, 
 finally brings to at a commodious wharf, with the city before 
 you, which is in strange contrast with the wild, rugged scenery 
 around. In front stretch the white set, lements of the town. 
 The Greek church is the most conspicuous and interesting 
 object. It is built in the form of a Greek cross, and is sur- 
 mounted by an Oriental dome over the centre, which has been 
 painted an emerald green color. One wing is used as a chapel, 
 and contains, besides a curious font, an exquisite painting of 
 the Virgin and Child, copied from the celebrated picture at 
 Moscow. All the drapery is of silver, and the halo of gold; of 
 the painting itself, nothing is seen but the faces. Through the 
 opening left for the head shows the face of the Virgin, of marvel- 
 lous sweetness and exquisite colouring. The picture is worthy 
 of a place in the world's great galleries, and it seemed a matter 
 of regret that it is in such a secluded place. The life-size 
 painting of St. Michael and St. Nicholas on the doors of the 
 altar have elaborate silver draperies and gold halos. The 
 ornaments and the candelabra are all of silver, the walls are 
 hung with portraits of princes and prelates, and the general 
 effect is rich in the extreme. 
 
 A few old Russians, or " Russian Creoles," present, had an 
 air of being Tolstoi's peasants, and entered into the service 
 with great earnestness. The Indian converts were noticeable 
 for their stupid looks and perfunctory motions, evidently under- 
 standing little of the service, which was in Slavonic. The 
 candles in the hanging silver lamps (similar to those seen at 
 the Greek altars in the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem) seemed 
 to attract them, and in many of the Indian houses we saw 
 " icons " with a light burning before them. This Greek church 
 claims to have a thousand adherents. 
 
 Next to the church in interest is the old Muscovite castle. 
 Here, the stern Romanoff ruled the land, and Baron Wrangell, 
 one of Russia's many celebrated Polar explorers, held sway. 
 
586 
 
 GREEK CHURCH. 
 
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 a: 
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 H 
 
GLACIERS. 
 
 687 
 
 02 
 
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 03 
 M 
 H 
 
 The old baronial structure is imposing solely because of its 
 commanding position on the top of a great rock, and is inter- 
 esting on account of its history and the romantic stories that 
 cling about the vestiges of its fast-decaying grandeur. Its 
 great timbers are put together in that solid, heavy fashion that 
 recalls the days when this now peaceful settlement was ravaged 
 by Indian wars, and stout walls were a necessity as a defence 
 against attack. 
 
 At Sitka the American Presbyterians have a prosperous 
 mission with a school and orphanage, established by Mrs. 
 
 An Arctic Fjord in Winter. 
 
 McFarlane, a devoted American lady, who was for some years 
 the only white woman in the country — a region larger than the 
 whole of France. 
 
 At Glacier Bay, near Mount St. Elias, the grandeur culmin- 
 ate& Muir Glacier exposes a glittering wall of ice from five 
 hundred to one thousand feet in height, four or five miles 
 across the front, and extending forty miles back. From one 
 point thirty huge glaciers may be seen. 
 
 " In all Switzerland," says Lieut. Schwatka, " there is nothing 
 comparable to these Alaskan glaciers, where the frozen wastes 
 
588 
 
 A NORTHERN WONDERLAND, 
 
 rise straight from the soa, and a steamer can go up within an 
 eighth of a mile, and cruise beside them." 
 
 Lord Duiferin has pronounced the scenery of Alaska to be 
 the sublimest he has witnessed in all his travels. He says: 
 " While its glaciers and mountains are five times as large as 
 those of the Alpine regions, Alaska possesses, in addition, 
 the changeful beauty of the sea; while the Alpine Moun- 
 tains attain their grandeur slowly, rising from the level by a 
 succession of foot-hills, these peaks of the northland rise 
 abruptly from the sea to a snow-crowned, ice-crowned height, 
 
 A TyficaIi Glacibb. 
 
 not surpassed by the loftiest peaks of the Alps." Alaska is 
 par excellence, the scenic store-ground of the world, its inlets 
 rivalling the fjords of Norway and its glaciers far surpassing 
 those of Switzerland. 
 
 The present writer has not yet had the opportunity to visit 
 this northern wonderland. The city o? Victoria furnished 
 enough of interest to occupy all the time at my command. 
 With its beautiful climate, noble scenery, its great future 
 possibilities, I was profoundly impressed. But in one respect 
 there was a considerable room for improvement. I have 
 
GIANT PINES. 
 
 589 
 
 seen very few cities with so large a number of places for the 
 sale of intoxicating liquors, and such places must have a large 
 number of patrons. During the palmy days of gold-mining at 
 Cariboo, miners used, during the winter, to swarm into Victoria 
 by the thousand — many of them squandering their hard-earned 
 nuggets in drinking, gambling, and carousing. Those days are 
 gone forever ; but they left a residuum of vice that will require 
 all the counter influence of religious and temperance effort to 
 overcome. Nor are such efforts wanting. My last evening in 
 Victoria was spent at a meeting of the Women's Christian 
 Temperance Union — which has there a vigorous branch. It 
 has just been enjoying a visit from Miss Willard and our Cana- 
 dian Mrs. Yeomans, who both did valiant service for the cause 
 of truth and righteousness. After bidding the zealous ladies of 
 the Women's Christian Temperance Union God-speed in their 
 holy work, I went on board the steamer at eleven o'clock, and 
 before morning was far out on the Gulf of Georgia. 
 
 NEW WESTMINSTER. 
 
 By noon next day we were at Port Moody. I walked 
 across fronfi Port Moody to New Westminster, a distance of 
 six miles. And a very fine walk it was, in large part through 
 a majestic forest of Douglas pines. A great fire long ago 
 ravaged this region, and many of the trees are now mere 
 charred and blackened torsos of their former giant propor- 
 tions. But many still stand erect, tall and stately, and crowned 
 with living green. I stood on a stump whose diameter wa» 
 nearly ten feet. One fallen monarch was over two hundred 
 feet in length. Near New Westminster was a huge stump^ 
 thirteen paces in circumference, within whose hollow heart a 
 good-sized tree was growing, which had been planted by the 
 Marquis of Lome. The saw-logs are so enormous that ten 
 or. twelve oxen are often required to drag them from the forest. 
 There are many mills for the reduction of these huge logs to 
 timber, some of which are situated amid wildly picturesque 
 scenery, as in our cut. 
 
 It was rather a lonely walk from Port Moody, without a 
 house or clearing except a few at either end. I met only two 
 
590 
 
 AMONG THE PINES. 
 
 white men in the whole distance, and eight Chinamen, each 
 of the latter bearing his personal belongings slung from the 
 
 end of a bamboo pole over his 
 shoulder. 
 
 I stopped at a large "can- 
 nery," that of Laidlaw & Co., 
 to examine the mode of can- 
 ning the famous Fraser River 
 salmon. It was operated prin- 
 cipally by Chinamen, of whom 
 seventy-four 
 were employed. 
 For these was 
 erected a large 
 boarding-house 
 on piles, like 
 the pre-historic 
 phalbauten of 
 Switzerland. 
 Notwithstand- 
 ing all that is 
 said to the con- 
 trary, I think 
 the Chinese are 
 a very cleanly 
 
 Among the Douglas Pinks. 
 
 race. There was a great boiler of hot water ready for their 
 baths, and they seem forever rasping and shaving each other's 
 
502 
 
 A SALMON CANNERY. 
 
 heads and faces. I saw one fellow blinking in the sun, while a 
 comrade, who held him by the nose, was sedulously scraping 
 away at his visage. They will actually shave the inside of the 
 ear, as shown in our engraving on page 596. 
 
 About seventy-five Indians were also employed in catching 
 the salmon. They lived in a squalid village of crowded hovels 
 with scarce passage-room between them. Hungry-looking dogs 
 and well-fed-looking children swarmed in about equal propor- 
 tions. Lazy-looking brawny men lounged around; some of 
 them in bed at five p.m., while the women cleaned and smoked 
 the fish which were hanging in unsavoury festoons from poles 
 overhead. The stories told of the multitude of salmon seem 
 almost incredible. During some seasons I was assured they 
 could be pitched out by the boatload with a common pitchfork. 
 
 Within the cannery, however, everything was clean and 
 orderly. The salmon are caught in long nets stretched across 
 the river, and are cleaned^ and washed, and scraped by hand. 
 Afterwards machinery does most of the work. Circular saws 
 cut the fish into sections, the length of a can. The cans being 
 filled, the tops are soldered on automatically by rolling the cans 
 down an iacline, the corner being immersed in a groove con- 
 taining a bath of molten solder. The cans are then boiled in 
 great crates in a steam chamber at 240°. They are pricked 
 with a pointed hammer to allow the steam to escape, and are 
 deftly soldered air-tight by Chinamen. When cold they are 
 labelled and packed in cases. Nine-tenths of the entire catch 
 goes to England, I saw Chinamen, also, making and packing 
 shingles by machinery; in fact, doing most of the manual 
 labour, and doing it well. I don't see how these great canneries 
 could be run without them. White labour it seems impossible 
 to get in suflficient quantity. 
 
 New Westminster occupies a magnificent situation, on a vast 
 slope rising from the river-side to the 1. eight, I should say, of 
 two hundred feet. From the upper streets and terraces a far- 
 reaching view is obtained of the Lower Fraser, and of £he inter- 
 mipable pine forests on the southern shore. It is in contempla- 
 tion to have railway connection with the American railway 
 system of the Pacific Coasts This would bring New West- 
 
 ^^T 
 W^ 
 
 
 
 *A^ 
 
 1,- ' ■ Jr^ " 
 
 'i^' 
 
 K. 
 
 
694 
 
 NE IV IVES TAf/A'S TEIi. 
 
 minster and Vancouver into intimate relations of trade and 
 travel with the thriving cities of Portland, Seattle, Tacoina, and 
 with the beautiful city of the Golden Gate. 
 
 Mount Tacoina, shown in cut on pa^e 599, is the loftiest 
 mountain in the United States, except the Alaska group. It 
 rises 14,444 feet above sea level, and seonis all the higher 
 because it rises not from an elevated plateau, but almost sheer 
 from the water side. 
 
 New Westminster has some handsome buildings, including 
 the Anglican cathedral, of stone, boasting the only chime of 
 bells on the Coast — a gift of the Baroness Burdett-Coutts. 
 The Methodist church is a very tasteful and neat structure, 
 and in the parsonage near by — honoured by the residence of 
 such men as Robson, Derrick, Pollard, Russ, Bryant, Brown- 
 ing, White, and Dr. Evans — I received a hearty welcome from 
 my genial friend, the Rev. Coverdale Watson. 
 
 Mr. Watson was enthusiastic in his praises of British Colum- 
 bia. He said that the people of the East do not conceive 
 the magnificent agricultural and pastoral resources of the valley 
 of the Eraser, the Nicola Valley, and the other extensive regions 
 of the interior. He had recently been on a missionary tour 
 over part of the old Cariboo road. He described the scenery as 
 stupendous. Our engravings on pages 544 and 54G will show 
 the character of some of the landscapes of the interior. 
 
 The next morning it was pouring rain, but my friend would 
 not allow me to leave town without making the acquaintance 
 of a number of the good people of New Westminster. So, 
 equipped in a borrowed inaiarubber coat, I fared forth in 
 search of adventures. Those who know the relative inches of 
 myself and my host will kr.ov, that I was pretty well covered. 
 In crossing the streets I had to lift the skirts as a lady lifts her 
 train. I was led to the familiar precincts of a live newspaper 
 office, and to a number of well-filled stores that would do credit 
 to any town in the Dominion. The Canadian Pacific Railway 
 bad just completed a connecting-link from Port Moody, which 
 cannot fail to greatly promote the prosperity of the ancient 
 capital of. British Columbia. 
 
 It was a rather dismal ride in a close carriage back to Port 
 
 L*' i| 
 
 I; J 
 
 «i I I.I . f I 
 
 
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 ■n 
 
 
 
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 Lj|| 
 
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 ■^§-S%i#^.* 'AJ ■ ' y^ 
 
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 'Ms '4 
 
 
 
596 
 
 DELICATE ATTENTIONS. 
 
 Moody, but once on the train the scenery was all the more 
 impressive from the sombre sky. The tremendous mountain 
 
 Chinese Barker, 
 
 background of Yale dwarfs the little town into comparative 
 insignificance, and forms a majestic example of mountain 
 grandeur and gloom. Through the gathering shadows of 
 
FRASER CANYON. 
 
 6b7 
 
 YaU, Alio TH£ FkASEB CaNTON. 
 
598 
 
 FRASER CANYON. 
 
 autumn twilight we plunged into the deeper shadows of the 
 Fraser River canyon. The arrowy river, rushing white with 
 
 i; 
 
 rage so far below the track, looked uncanny and weird. The 
 tortured mist, writhing up the gorges, looked like the ghosts 
 of bygone storms. 
 
 
(6 
 
 
 
 TACOMA. 599 
 
 Next day was bright and beautiful, the air aa clear as crystal. 
 
 Flame-coloured patches of poplars contrasted with the deep 
 gieen of the cedars in the valleys, and the deep, dark purple 
 
600 
 
 BANFF. 
 
 vistas of spruce and pine, made the serrated silver crest of the 
 mountains seem whiter still. It was a day of deep delight as 
 we threaded the passes of the Cascades, the Selkirks, and the 
 Rockies. 
 
 BANFF SPRINGS. 
 
 About midnight I stopped off at Banff Springs, where there 
 is a Government reserve" of ten miles by twenty-six, which 
 is being converted into a national park and health resort. A 
 top-heavy st. i ' '-^ ^ drove two miles to the comfortable Sana- 
 tarium Hotel. Canadian Pacific Railway has also erected 
 
 a magnificent hotfci at this place. There is here the making of 
 a noble national park. The crystal-clear Bow River meanders 
 through a lovely valley, begirt by lofty mountains — Mount 
 Cascade, rising ten thousand feet above the sea ; Norquay, nine 
 thousand five hundred ; Sulphur, eight thousand five hundred, 
 and other lesser peaks. There are three notable mineral hot 
 springs which have i*emarkable curative properties, especially 
 for rheumatic and cutaneous diseases. One of these springs, 
 gushing out of the rock about eight hundred feet up the slope 
 of Sulphur Mountain, is exceedingly hot — IIQ"" Fh. — almost too 
 hot for the body to bear. Rough log tanks in a log cabin 
 furnish facilities for a free bath. For those more fastidious, 
 better accommodation is provided. 
 
 Another spring was more curious still. I climbed a hill 
 about forty feet by steps cut in a soft porous rock, and reached 
 at the top an opening in the ground about four feet across. 
 Through this a rude ladder protruded. I descended the ladder 
 into a beehive- shaped cave, whose sides were hung with 
 stalactites. At the bottom was a pool, crystal-clear, of delight- 
 fully soft water at the temperature of 92°. The bottom was a 
 quicksand from which the water boiled so vigorously that the 
 body was upborne thereby, and it seemed impossible to sink. 
 The entrance to this grotto is now effected by a horizontal pas- 
 sage at its base. The Rembrandt-iike effect of the flood of 
 light pouring through the opening in the roof into the gloomy 
 cave was very striking. 
 
 At the foot of the hill is still another and more vigorously 
 
 
 
 1^..^ 
 
 
yj 
 
FOUNTAINS OF HEALING. 
 
 601 
 
 boiling spring at 96° — very much like the famous Green Cove 
 Spring in Florida. I bathed in all three of the fountains, and, 
 
 whatever their curative properties may be, I can bear testimony 
 to the delightful sensations of the two cooler springs. The 
 analysis of the hot spring is as follows : 
 
omsi 
 
 602 
 
 A STRANGE FIND. 
 
 In 100,000 parts : 
 
 Sulphuric anhydrite 57 '26 
 
 Calcium monoxide 24 48 
 
 Carbon dioxide 6'47 
 
 Magnesium oxide 4"14 
 
 Sodium oxide « 27 33 
 
 123 -88 
 
 Total solids in 100,000 parts : 
 
 Calcium sulphate 5085 
 
 Magnesium sulphate 12'39 
 
 Calcium carbonate 3'29 
 
 Sodium carbonate 35 '23 
 
 Sodium sulphate 15"60 
 
 Silica, trace 
 
 This is a greater proportion of these valuable chemical con- 
 stituents than is possessed by the famous Hot Springs of 
 Arkansas. The outflow of the spring is four hundred thousand 
 gallons a day. Admirable roads and drives are being con- 
 structed. The hotel, since completed, will accommodate two 
 hundred persons. The elevation of this mountain valley — four 
 thousand feet above the sea — the magnificent scenery, the 
 romantic walks, and drives, and climbs, and these fountains of 
 healing, conspire to make this one of the most attractive sana- 
 taria on this continent. It is situated only nine hundred and 
 twenty miles west of Winnipeg. 
 
 About four o'clock, I started with a travelling companion to 
 climb Tunnel Mountain, which lies temptingly near, and rises 
 about two thousand feet above the valley. It was compara- 
 tively easy climbing, though in places so steep that the crum- 
 bling shale with which it was covered slipped down in great 
 sheets as wo scrambled over it. On the very highest point we 
 noticed a small cairn of stones, in a cleft of which was thrust a 
 written paper. On examining this, what was my surprise to 
 find a document signed by my own son and his travelling com- 
 panion, who had visited this spot a few weeks before. It was 
 a most extraordinary coincidence that we should both happen 
 upon the same part of the same mountain among the hundreds 
 of peaks of this great country. 
 
NOBLE SCENERY. 
 
 603 
 
 The magnificent sunset view was well worth all the fatigue 
 of the climb. The far-winding Bow River could be traced for 
 many a mile through the valley. The snow-capped mountains 
 gathered in solemn conclave, like Titans on their lordly thrones, 
 
 
 o 
 to 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 on every side. The purple shadows crept over the plain and 
 filled the mountain valleys as a beaker is filled with wine. The 
 snow-peaks became suffused with a rosy glow as the sun's 
 parting kiss lingered on their brows. It was a world of silence, 
 and wonder, and delight. It was with difficulty that we could 
 
604 
 
 COMPANIONS IN TRA VEL 
 
 tear ourselves away from the fascinating scene. Indeed, we 
 staid too long as it was, for we had hard work to force our way 
 through the tangled brushwood and cUhrls at the foot of the 
 mountains. We groped our way through the dark to the hotel, 
 whose friendly light beckoned us on, and, hungry as hunters, 
 did ample justice to the generous fare provided. This delightful 
 vicinity is destined to be a favourite resort of multitudes to 
 seek the recuperation of jaded nerve and brain amid these 
 mountain solitudes. 
 
 About midnight we started again on our eastward journey. 
 It is curious how people run to and fro in the earth in these 
 days, and think little of very long journeys. On our train were 
 a Dominion Senator and his daughter, from Nova Scotia, 
 returning from a trip to Victoria, B.C.; a Montreal and a 
 Toronto merchant, the latter with his wife, returning from a 
 business trip to the Pacific Coast ; a sweet-faced mother with 
 her four children, returning from Seattle, in Washington Terri- 
 tory, to Macchias, in Maine ; two French ladies, returning from 
 New Westminster to Quebec, one with a canary which she had 
 brought from Germany ; a Frenchman, returning from the far 
 West, going to Kamouraska; a young girl travelling from 
 Kamloops, in the Cascades, to Pictou, N.S., intending to return 
 in the spring ; three members of Parliament on a vacation trip 
 to the Pacific ; a lady from Winnipeg, on a visit to friends in 
 Scotland ; a gentleman and his wife, from Portage la Prairie, 
 returning to London ; a veteran globe-trotter. Dr. Stephenson, 
 prospecting for homes for the waifs of London's stony streets. 
 Thus human shuttles are weaving the warp and woof of life all 
 over the world. How infinite that Divine Providence that 
 holds them all " in His large love and boundless thought." 
 
 The people that one meets are often a curious study. As the 
 train swept round the rugged north shore of Lake Superior, in 
 the witching moonlight which clothed with beauty every crag 
 and cliff, I had a long conversation with an old tonsured and 
 gray-bearded Jesuit priest, who had been a missionary in that 
 lonely region for four and twenty years. He used to travel 
 five hundred miles through the wilderness on snow-shoes, car- 
 rying a pack of fourteen pounds on his back. He was familiar 
 
A HEROIC MISSIOAARV. G05 
 
 with the classics, and knew all about Brtjbeuf and Jogues, his 
 
 On the Head Waters oir the AJattawa. 
 
 •j'ZZi 
 
 predecessors by two hundred and fifty years in missionary 
 labour among the scattered tribes of the wilderness. He told 
 
^T 
 
 "rT- 
 
 606 
 
 OUR HERITAGE. 
 
 me that forty-eight men had been killed by nitro-glycerine in 
 the construction of this part of the road. 
 
 The wilderness north of Lake Huron seemed doubly droar 
 under a lowering sky, the gloomy forest being blurred into 
 indistinctness by frequent downpours of rain. At length the 
 sky cleared, and under brighter auspices we reached the head 
 waters of the streams flowing into the Ottawa basin. Great 
 flights of wild fowl winnowed their slow way through the air, 
 and hurrying streams leaped out of the dark forest flashing in 
 foamy wreaths over the grey boulders on their eager way to 
 the distant sea. 
 
 It was a delightful change from the autumn gloom of the 
 measureless pine forests of the northern wilderness to the 
 autumn glory of the hardwood lands of Ontario. I had made 
 the trip of over six thousand miles, from Toronto to Victoria 
 and return, in comfort, in less than three weeks, traversing 
 .some of the richest prairie lands and some of the grandest moun- 
 tain scenery in the world, and gaining a new conception of the 
 magnificence of the national inheritance kept hidden through 
 the ages till, in the providence of Qod, 
 
 " The down- trodden races of Europe, 
 Pelt that they too were created the heirs of the earth, 
 And claimed ita division." 
 
 The brief and imperfect survey, contained in the foregoing 
 pages, of the vast extent and almost illimitable resources of 
 Canada should inspire the patriotic pride of every Canadian, be 
 he such by birth or by adoption. Other nations have struggled 
 into being through throes of war and blood. With a great 
 price obtained they the liberties which we enjoy ; but we were 
 f reeborn. We have no need to chafe at the filial allegiance we 
 sustain to the great mother of nations, whose offspring we are. 
 It is a golden tie of love that links us to .ler side and identifies 
 us with her fortunes. We may adopt the eloquent language 
 of Dr. Beers, of Montreal, who says : — 
 
 "As a Canadian I am at home when I land at Liverpool, at 
 Glasgow, at Dublin, at Bermuda, New South Wales, Victoria, 
 Queensland, New Guinea, Jamaica, Barbadoes or Triuidad. 
 
ifm 
 
 BRITAIN'S GREATNESS. 
 
 607 
 
 Politically speaking I have a large share in, and am proud 
 of, the glorious old flag which waves over New Zealand, Aus- 
 tralia, Gibraltar, Malta, Hong Kong, West Africa, Ceylon, 
 St. Helena, Natal, British Honduras, Dominica, the Bahamas, 
 Grenada, Barbadoes and India. I need no other passport to 
 the rights of a British subject and the citizen of a great 
 realm, comprising sixty-five territories and islands than my 
 CSanadian birthright. I do not measure my national boundary 
 from the Atlantic to the Pacific, but from the Pacific to the 
 Caribbean Sea. Under the reign of Victoria no Canadian need 
 be ashamed to belong to an empire which embraces a fifth of 
 the habitable globe, and to know that his own Dominion forms 
 nearly a half of the whole ; an empire five times as large as 
 that which was under Darius ; four times the size of that under 
 ancient Rome ; sixteen times greater than France ; forty times 
 greater than United Germany; three times larger Ihan the 
 United States, Australia alone being nearly as big as the States; 
 India, neerly a million and a quarter of square miles ; Canada 
 six hundred thousand square miles larger than the States 
 without Alaska, and eighteen thousand square miles larger 
 with it ! An empire nearly nine millions of square miles, with 
 a population of three hundred and ten millions." 
 
 I cannot close this volume without casting a thought into the 
 future, as men drop pebbles into deep wells to .see what echo 
 they return. I behold.^in imagination, a grand confederation 
 of provinces, each large as a kingdom, stretching from ocean to 
 ocean, traversed by the grandest lake and river system in the 
 , world, and presided over, it may be, by a descendant of the 
 august Lady who to-day graces the most stable throne on 
 
 earth. 
 
 " I hear the tread of pioneers 
 Of nations yet to be, 
 The first h)w wash of waves where yet 
 Shall roll the human sca.'' 
 
 At the present rate of increase, within a century a hundred 
 millions of inhabitants shall occupy these lands. The Canadian 
 Pacific Railway opens a passage from Europe to "gorgeous 
 Inde and far Cathay," seven hundred miles shorter than any 
 
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 608 
 
 OUR FUTURE. 
 
 other route. A ceaseless stream of traffic already throbs 
 along this iron artery of commerce, enriching with its life- 
 blood all the land. Qreat cities, famed as marts of trade 
 throughout the world, shall stand thick along this highway of 
 the nations ; and the names of their merchant-princes shall be 
 " familiar as household' words" in the bazaars of Yokohama and 
 Hong Kong, Calcutta and Bombay. A new England, built up 
 by British enterprise and industry — a worthy offspring of that 
 great mother o*. nations, whose colonies girdle tb^ globe — shall 
 hold the keyy of the Pacific Sea, and rejuvenate the effete old 
 nations of China and Japan. And across the broad continent 
 a great, free and happy people shall dwell beneath the broad 
 banner of Britain, perpetuating Christian institutions and 
 British laws and liberties, let us hope, to the end of time. 
 
 I find no more fitting close of these pages than the following 
 patriotic aspiration by a Canadian poet, who hides his identity 
 under the initials " A. C." : — 
 
 Canada ! Maple-land ! Land of great mountains ! 
 Lake-land and river-land ! Land 'twixt the seas ! 
 Grant us, God, hearts that are larjje ai our heritage, 
 Spirits as free as the breeze ! 
 
 Grant us Thy fear that we walk in humility, — 
 
 Fear that is rev'rent — not fear that is base ; — 
 Grant to us righteousness, wisdom, prosperity, 
 Peace — if unstained by disgrace. 
 
 Grant us Thy love and the love of our country ; 
 
 Grani; us Thy strength, for our strength's in Thy name ; 
 Shield us from danger, from oveiy adversity, 
 Shieli I us, oh Father, from shame ! 
 
 Last born of nations ! The offspring of freedom ! 
 
 Heir to wide prairies, thick forests, red gold 1 
 God grant us wisdom to value our birthright, 
 Courage to guard what we hold ! 
 
 X 
 
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