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This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiqu* ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X J 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here hes been reproduced thenks to the generosity of: Library, Geological Survey of Canada L'exemplaire filmA fut reproduit grAce A la g::•; .# -1«! ,:**v ,•• «••• Vi ••♦ • ♦,•'■? ^r • -♦>.• ^i-/4?'^.^^-*';n.vi- ^i*♦»■••tf^ •• \ Vll ; v^*-?'- ,^.- ' ;.' » ■^.L*-« e; -- ■* •■**-* ""r r^:.^-^-*-,-.:.^^, 1 -'.?'. ■ifik'' -^i S " <. . % ';-,ijwei^-!£% ^« '_ ■«■ iri Jttl% k at^ ^^ T*W^ .1. w. TYKiti;i,r,. ui,s. f K. THROUGH THE BARREN LANDS : An Exploration Line of 3,200 Milks. By J. W TYRRELL. C.E., D.L.S , //ami/ton. Part I. (2,200 MILES BY CANOE.) Di'RiNci the early spring of 1893, ^"^^ Director of the Geological Survey of Canada havii% issued instructions to my brother, J. Burr Tyrrell, Field Geologist of that department, to conduct an exploratory survey into the great Barren Land district lying to the west of the northern portion of Hudson Bay, preparations were at once com- menced for the undertaking. For the purpose of t2' f^re fearfully blistered -ach packer had carried six loads to the opposite end of the portage, representing a walk of thirty-three miles, eighteen of which were travelled under heavy loads. Camp was pitched with some satisfaction at the upper end of the portage. Two more loads for the party, however, remained at the foot of the rapids. On the following morning these were carried by our limping, back-aching packers to camp, and thence our traverse of the river was resumed. Early on the afternoon of the same day we reached the upper fall of the Stone River, and found ourselves at the foot of a second long portage. On account of the condition of the men, camp was now ordered to be pitched so as to give them a chance to rest, but my brother and I walked across the portage, which we found to be three and one-half miles in length. Its upper end terminated upon the shore of Black Lake, where it was thought we might see some native Indians who could be hired to assist us across the portage ; but in this we were disappointed, finding, instead of Indians, only old forsaken tepee poles and blackened fireplaces. The weather being extremely warm, and ourselves very weary, we tried to rest for a while upon the shore of the lake, but the flies swarmed about us with such frightful fury that we were obliged to beat a retreat and seek rest where alone it could be found, viz , be- neath our mosquito nets at camp. By the way, there is a Chippevveyan tradition which credits the Great Spirit with having first made black flies upon tiiis very port- age. (I have not the slightest doubt as to the truth of the legend.) About two days were occupied in portaging our outfit to the shote of Black Lake ; then on the 7th instant, starting out in a north- — 6 — easterly direction and traversing the c ast for a distance of sixteen miles, we reached the landing place of an Indian hunting trail, of which my brother had previously been informed by the natives. This place, up to the present time, had been our objective point, and our way to it was known to us ; but beyond, nothing was known of our road or of the country through which it would lead us, excepting for a few days' journey, regarding which portion we had the following Indian directions : — " From Black Lake make a long portage north- ward to a little lake. Then cross five or six small lakes and as many portages, when a large body of water called Wolverine Lake will be reached. Pass through this lake and ascend a river flowing into it from the northward, until a second large lake called ' Active Man ' is reached This lake will take two days to cross, and at its northern end will be found the height of land. Across this there is a portage to another large lake, from the north end of which a Great River flows to the northward through a treeless country unknown to the Indians, but inhabited by savage Eskimos." As to where this river flowed to we did not know, but were resolved upon making the di covery. On the morning of July 8th, therefore, without guide or map, we commenced our survey into the great unexplored wilderness. Our road started with a two-mile portage, through thickets, swamps, and over rocky hills Then in turn, day after day, numerous lakes, streams, and portages — very much as described by our Indian informer — were discovered and traversed. After getting into a lake on several occasions, much trouble was experienced in finding the portage from it ; but altogether less time was occupied in trail hunting than might have been expected Tim- ber, chiefly black spruce and tamarack, becoming more stunted and thinly scattered as we proceeded northward, extended to the height of land and some distance beyond. One evening, after a long and miserable day's work up stream, in a cold, chilling rain, one of those little incidents occurred which serve to vary the daily routine of life upon a surveying party. As I was standing by the camp fire trying to dry my clothes and enjoying a cup of hot tea, my brother appeared from over a ridge at the back of the camp — where he and his geological hammer had been at war with the rocks— and announced that he had just heard a cariboo calf not far back in the swamp at the foot of the ridge. Being always ready for sport, I picked up my " Marlin," and, getting him to point out the direction from i^hich he had heard the sound, started out, though already nearly dark, for some venison. The dense spruce swamp was found to be very vvet, and literally alive with mosquitoes, which at every step rose up from the wet grass in swarms, and beat into my face. A ••run-away" was soon found, and then, thinking that I was likely on the right track, I hurried noiselessly along, hoping soon to hear something of the calf. After travelling some distance without any signs of success, I was about to return for fear of losing my way in the darkness, when, a little distance ahead, I heard the cracking of a stick. Feeling that it was assuredly caused — 7 — by the foot of the fawn, with eyes and ears alert I glided silently on. Again and again the noise was heard, and each time nearer than the last ; so my advance was continued cautiously until soon in a thicket of scrub, only a faw yards ahead, the disturbing of some branches was noticed. Still no deer could be seen ; but in creeping up closer, at the distance of only a few yards, I suddenly came within full view of an immense black bear. Although taken by sur- prise at the proportions of my supposed calf, I levelled for the back of bruin's head, and fired. Several delirious tumbles, followed by a bolt into the gloom of the swamp, completed the entertainment so far as I was concerned. It was too dark to follow the wounded animal ; so I groped my way back to camp, and related my adven- ture with the *' cariboo caif." On the i8th of July the height of land was reached, and over this a portage of a mile and a quarter took us to a large body of water, which we have named Daly Lake, the level of which stood at an elevation of fifty feet below that of the one we had crossed just south of the divide The height of land, from our barometric read- ings, was found to be about thirteen hundred feet above the sea ; and upon this summit, to the top of a tall spruce tree, before we de- parted, I took occasion to nail the "flag that has braved a thousand year: the battle and the breeze " Daly Lake was found to be sixty miles in length, and from its north shore, after a good deal of searching in many deep bays, the outlet - our informant's •' Great River flowing to the north " — was discovered. It was indeed a great, broad, and rapid river, broken up into several channels, not deep, but as it were the waters of the lake spilling over the edge in the lowest places. This was the river we had determined to descend ; so with noth- ing more than conjectures as to where it would bear us, we pushed our canoes into the stream, and sped away to the northward. Landings were made when necessary, in order to carry on the survey and examination of the country ; but otherwise our canoes were kept in the current and our men at the paddles. Though outlying groves of spruce and tamarack might still be found here and there in the most favored localities, we were now well into the barren lands ; and the change from the wooded district was found to be anything but desirable. An alcohol lamp for the purpose of making a hot cup of tea is an excellent thivig ; but, to a party wet and cold by rain or spray from the rapids, it is a miserable substitute for a roaring camp' fire. The weather became very wet and cold, and storms, which swept the open country with frightful fury, began to be of very fre- quent occurrence ; so that now our camp outfit was seldom if ever dry, and the progress of our survey was much interrupted. On the 29th of July, as we were traversing the shores of Carey Lake, ^^e were permitted to witness a sight which, as long as I live, I shall never forget. The land, as far as we could see, was — 8 — here, there, and everywhere covered over large areas by moving masses of reindeer. No estimate could be arrived at as to their numbers. They could only be described in acres or square miles. After killing as many as we considered necessary for making dried meat for the rest of our journey, we walked into the solid herds, armed only with a camera, and secured a number of photo- graphs. These now afford me a great deal of satisfaction ; for when I begin to talk " deer," and people smile a look skeptical, all I have to do is to produce a photograph. On the 7th of August we reached a great lake — probably Samuel Hearm's Doobaunt or Tobaunt Lake — which was then, as it perhaps always is, covered by a field of heavy ice. We were able to proceed in our canoes, without much obstruction, in an open chan- nel of water along the shore, though sometimes we were blocked and had to portage past the ice, which in several places I measured and found to be as much as seven feet in thickness. The weather experienced in the vicinity of this lake was most inhospitable. Five days were spent in traversing the one hundred miles of shore line from inlet to outlet ; but seven days were unwill- ingly spent upon the rocky ice bound shore, where we were forced to await the abatement of two terrific storms accompanied by rain and snow. The lack of sufficient shelter contributed greatly to our discomfort throughout our entire Barren Land work ; for unfortun- ately our tents, though admirably adapted for woodland districts, were here of comparatively little use, the rains being continually driven through them by the terrible force of the gales. When the outlet of Tobaunt Lake was discovered, it was not found to be obstructed by ice as it was feared it might be, but as before the clear, cold waters of the great river rushed on to the northward. A few miles down from the lake we first met with the Eskimos, of whom our men had been told such blood-curdling stories by the Chippeweyans. Had our men been disposed to believe the reports, they must have been pleasantly disappointed by the cordial, demonstrative receptions which from time to time we received at their hands. (In a paper of this kind, it is necessary to be brief; otherwise I might be able to speak of many incidents, or characteristics of the country which would be of interest ; but to give anything like a full account of our journey would trespass entirely too much upon your patience and the pages of our Report ) About the time we entered the Eskimo country, we also came across the first signs of Musk Oxen ; but from this time forward the appearances of game of any description began to be rare, and with the month of August we parted company entirely with the deer. Towards the end of August, judging from our geographical posi- tion and our north-westerly course, the indications were that our destination was to be the Great Fish River instead of Hudson Bay as we had hoped ; but after following a very winding course, on the — 9 — evening of the and September, we found ourselves on the waters of Baker Lake, which is emptied by two rivers into Chesterfield Inlet, the north-west arm of Hudson Bay. ' Baker Lake as well as the Inlet was originally discovered and crudely mapped by one Captain Christopher in 1770, so that we were now again on waters not entirely unknown. Since the commencement of our canoe journey we had altogether travelled a distance of fourteen hundred miles. We had carried on our survey for one thousand and fifty miles, of which distance eight hundred had been through entirely new country. The balance of our route lay through Baker Lake and Chester- field Inlet, and down the coast of Hudson Bay, which represented, to Churchill, — the nearest habitation of man — a distance of seven hun- dred miles. For this trip we still had three weeks rations on hand. This it appeared would be scarcely sufficient, but resolved to make the best possible use of our time. On the morning of the third we continued our traverse. On the evening of the 6th, having been much delayed by head winds, the northerly of the two outlets was discovered. At first no current could be detected in the river, but when we had followed its course a short distance, a strong flow, almost approachmg a rapid, was met with, setting against us. Could it be possible that we were ascending a large river thus flowing in from the eastward ? The canoe- men were all confident that we were, and wished to turn back ; but thinking it possible that we had already reached tide water, they were instructed to proceed, though very much against their inclinations. Soon, to their astonishment, and our mutual satisfaction, we were privileged to witness the seemingly strange occurrence of the river ceasing to flow, and then turning strongly in our favor. We had thus reached the tide water nearly two hundred miles in from the Bay. A week later we obtained our first view of the " big sea water," and on the morning of the 13th of September we turned southward and during the succeeding three days, having fortunately fair weather, we traversed the bleak rocky shore of Hudson Bay for a distance of one hundred miles. This run along such an exposed coast was most encouraging, for it took us across the mouths of several deep inlets which would have required days to traverse had the weather been unfav- ourable. During the night of the 15th, however, as we were encamped on a little island in the mouth of Corbet's Inlet, we were overtaken by one of the many severe storms of the season, and for two days we were imprisoned there upon the sand bar. The gale was, as usual, accom- panied by a chilling rain, which penetrated our tents and made our lives generally miserable. On the afternoon of the 17th the wind fell, and though a heavy sea continued to roll in from the east, the waves ceased to break. Not wishing to lose any time, as the bottom of the " grub sack " was — 10 already very visible, we launched upon the heaving waters, and started across the mouth of the inlet on an eight mile traverse As we pulled out beyond the shelter of the islet we found the seas running fearfully high, but so long as they did not break upon us we had little to fear. But when we were well out in the inlet, Ihe wind began to come in gusts from the opposite direction to which it had been blowing, and speedily increased in strength to a full gale. The falling of the wind had been but the lull of a storm centre, and we were evidently in for a struggle. The waves became " choppy ; " were again broken by the gale, and their crests swept over us. Our position was indeed perilous. Every effort was made to guide our canoes in such a way as to brook least danger, but in spite of all we could do the seas dashed in upon us, and it appeared as if we would never reach the shore. My brother and 1 laid down our paddles and with tin kettles did our utmost to dash out the water and keep ourselves afloat Many times the great tumbling billows seemed as if they would certainly roll over us, but, like ducks on the water, our little cedar crafts ever rose \,ith the waves, though often half filled with spray. At length we neared the land, but only to find it skirted by a long continuous hne of shoals upon which the full force of the sea was breakmg with frightful fury. What was to be done ?, It was impossible for us to retreat in the teeth of the gale, and without a harbour we must certainly be smashed upon the rocks. On we were borne by the force of the storm for the breakers, but just as the crisis appeared to have come — thanks to a kind Providence — a way of escape was presented. One rock was found standing out a short distance in advance of the others, thus forming a little cove, and with a pull for our lives we managed to guide our canoes so that one after the other they were dashed into this shelter, where the force of the seas being broken, we all jumped from our canoes into the shallow water, and succeeded in landing them safely. Every particle ot our outfit was thoroughly soaked, but we were well pleased to escape with no worse misfortune. The country here was very barren, comparatively level, and of a most dreary aspect, without a sign of vegitation. The gale continued for two days longer so that we were not able to launch our canoes. As provisions were now about exhausted, the attention of our party, whilst ashore, was chiefly devoted to hunting ; but our efforts were not very fruitful, resulting only in the capture of one little duck and two gulls. On the morning of the 20th, the wind having fallen, camp was called at four o'clock, and, without breakfast, our journey resumed. Later in the day each man had a small piece of dried meat, quite insufficient to satisfy his appetite ; but, hungry though we were, the motto plainly inscribed on every mans face was '• Speed the paddle." ( > — 11 — ( » '' Thus we pressed on for two days, and made very good progress, but, having scarcely anything to eat, we began to feel weak. On the morning of the 22nd we were again storm bound by a heavy gale and snow, which lasted four days. During this time we suffered considerably from the violence of the storm as well as want of food. As soon as it had abated sufficiently, all hands went off hunting, and fortunately several hares and ptarmigans were secured and thoroughly appreciated. On the morning of the 26th, the wind having fallen considerably, our canoes were loaded — though not with one bite of provisions — and a fair run made Several sea ducks were shot during the day and thus our supper was secured The next day, again wind bound by a gale from the south-west, the whole party started out to hunt tor food. We were not altogether unsuccessful, assembling in the evening with five marmots or kind of ground squirrels The next morning, the 28th, though a strong breeze was blowing, we determined to make a start at least, for to remain where we were meant that we must soon starve to death. We were already much reduced and weakened from the effects of cold and hunger, and the condition of the weather had of late been most disheartening. We were still fully 300 miles from Churchill — the nearest habitation of man We had not one bite of food. The country was covered with snow, the climate piercingly cold. We had no fire, and worst of all, the weather was such the greater part of the time that we were unable to travel. It was difficult to be cheerful under such circumstances, but we kept up a brave exterior and pushed on. As we were bending to our paddles and had made perhaps seven or eight mile^sou^h-west- erly along the coast, a band of deer was observed upon the shore, so our course was quickly altered and a landing effected ; though with some difficulty, as the tide was falling and the water rapidly receding. The men were left to keep the canoes afloat, and from being damaged by the rocks, whilst my brother i nd I, with our rifles, went off in pur- suit of the deer, which were now very different animals to hunt than when in great bands earlier in the season. Another fact which rend- ered them difficult to approach, was, that the country was now a vast and dreary plain, affording no cover for the hunter save that of a few scatt -. J boulders. Behind some of these we crept for long distances, but found it impossible to get within any kind of medium range. Sev- eral times we got within 400 or 500 yards of the band, but could get no closer, and so opened fire at that distance. At first they trotted about in confusion, but then, locating their source of danger, fled straight across the plains. For several hours we followed them, vainly seeking for some opportunity of nearer approach, but being unsuccessful we retraced our weary steps to the shore, where we arrived faint and exhausted. We found the men had been unable to keep the canoes afloat. They were now high and dry, and the water ot the bay barely visible in the distance. As it was impossible to launch oui; canoes until the return of the — 12 — tide, two of the Iroquois, Peter and Louis, were given our rifles and sent off to try their fortune. As they departed and left us lying in the shelter of a rock, we sincerely wished them success. We had done our utmost and had failed, if they also should fail it was too apparent what must soon be the result. Two of the other men were sent off with shot guns, and then anxious hours of waiting followed. No shots were heard, but towards evening Peter and Louis and after- wards the other men were observed returning in the distance. None of them carried loads, as we had hoped they might, and at the pros- pect I confess my heart sickened. As they came nearer, however, Louis, holding up something in his hand, exclaimed, *' I got um." It was ihe claw of a polar bear, and we soon learned, with much joy, that he had, sure enough, killed a bear, which he had unex- pectedly come upon at the edge of a little lake whilst following the deer. It was about six miles inland that the encounter took place, and Louis was alone at the time. The meeting was a mutual surprise, sprung at close quarters, when our hunter's footsteps aroused bruin from his bed in the snow. Without wasting time in useless reflections the bear made straight for Louis, who met his charge with a slug and brought his assailant to his knees. The Indian then ran out upon the ice of the lake, but finding himself at a disadvantage there, instead of the bear as he had thought, he turned upon his pursuer, fired, and again knocked him down. Only for a moment, however; he got up and with a roar of desparation made again for Louis who had now regained the shoie They were already within a few feet of each other, so, realizing his situation, the Indian turned and this time shot his enemy dead at his feet. It was a happy shot for our whole party. Being unable to do anything with the carcass himself, he had returned — meeting his brother by the way— for assistance All gladly followed him to the scene of the combat where some moss was also found by which a fire was made and some of the meat roasted The reviving effect produced upon the spirits of our party was marked. Though the flesh of the polar bear is famed for its rank- ness we would not have exchanged it at that time for its weight in silver. I remember one of our western half-breeds being so exultant that he affirmed " He would not own the Queen as his uncle." No part of the carcass was wasted, but every scrap, amounting to about 200 lbs. of meal and halt as much blubber, was put into sacks and carried to the canoes, where, arriving long after dark, camp was made. The next morning a strong east wind was blowing, driving a wild surf in upon the shore and making it impossible to launch. We were thankful, however, during our delay, to have a supply of meat, and advantage was also taken of the opportunity afforded for obtain- ing moss to coo': it. Though several miles distant a quantity of this was gathered, and several large kettles of meat boiled, almost suffi- cient, it was hoped, to take us to Churchill. But al^s for our hopes ! The gale, which had been blowing, increased in fury until it became i ^ I ( » — 13 — a terrific storm accompanied by sleet and snow, and continued for five days. One of the nights, during a wild snow storm, the tent which my brother and I occupied was ripped up the back by the force of the gale, and with difficulty secured from being carried away. So pierc- ingly cold was the wind that without shelter we must soon have per- ished. We were already numb with cold, but midst the snow and dark- ness I managed to find a sail-needle and some twine, and then having lowered the tent to the ground — whilst my brother held the canvass together- -I, with stiffened fingers, stitched up the rent. When the tent was again raised our bedding was buried beneath a snowdrift, but our blankets being our only comfort the snow was shaked off and in a half perished condition we again crept beneath them to await results. After this great storm, which lasted until the 4th of October, the whole country was buried in snow, and every possibility of finding even a little moss to burn was excluded. Winter had indeed overtaken us. Ice was formmg all along the shore of the Bay, and it was evident that within a few days canoe travelling must be at an end. On the above date, though light snow was still falling, the wind had gone down sufficiently so that we were able to launch our canoes after a long portage out to meet the tide. By the most vigorous exer- tion all we were able to make during the day was ten miles, and that through a chilling spray which froze upon us and encased canoes and men in an armour of ice. We had great difficulty in getting ashore to camp at night, having agam to portage a long distance over the low-tide boulder flats. On the morning following the water of the Bay was out of sight and it was not until about noon, when the tide flowed in, that we could get into ine water. Then we were so obstructed by the new ice along the shore and a head wind that we were not able to make \ more than a mile or two before we were again forced to struggle to the shore. At this rate of travel we would be a long time in reaching Churchill. We had now been more than three weeks on the coast and were still at least 250 miles from our haven. Some different mode of travelling must be adopted or we could never get in. The shore ice was forming rapidly and might now block us at any time. We had not more than meat enough for another day or two, and the game had all left the country. What was to be done ? My brother and I talked the matter over during the night. The plan suggested itself to abandon everything but rifles and blan- kets and to start down the shore on foot. But then how could the numerous large rivers which were still open, be crossed ? Again, to this plan there was the objection that having been in canoes all summer and though still strong enough to paddle, our party was in very poor condition to walk. The only other feasible plan was then sug- gested. It was to abandon dunnage, instruments, rock collection, etc., everything except note books, photographs, plant collection, '• — 14 — rifles, blankets, and two small tents ; and thus with these to start out with only two canoes, and an increased force of one man in each of these, to travel for our lives. This plan was decided upon, and in the morning the men were set to work to make as secure a cache as possible of all our stuff, excepting the articles above-mentioned. This occupied the whole morning, and to us it was an unpleasant task, but as it seemed to be the only way by which we might hope to escape from this dreary ice- bound coast, it was felt to be a necessary one. Having made as snug a cache as we could build, with heavy heart we turned our steps towards the shore. After lauching our two canoes it was with great danger and diffi* culty that we were able to force our way through the broken but heavy shore ice to the open water beyond. Having got clear of the ice we were able to make good progress, and so, even at great risk of being smashed upon some of the many rocks, we paddled far into the night ; but at a late hour, being sheathed in ice from the freezing spray, we reached the shore and without supper lay down to sleep upon the snow. Eight more dreary days passed, six of which were spent in battling with the elements, and two in lying storm-stayed upon the shore. During this interval our party suffered much from cold and lack of food, and to make matters worse dysentery attacked us. The shore ice had been steadily forming, rendering it more and more difficult to launch or get ashore. Our frail crafts had been badly battered and several times broken through by the ice, and the low character of the coast had not improved. Still, with hollow cheeks and enfeebled strength we struggled on, sometimes making fair progress and at others very little, until on October the 14th as we advanced the ice became so heavy and extended so far out to sea, that in order to clear it we could not see the land. Towards evening we began to look about for some opportunity of going ashore, but nothing could be seen but the sea and a vast field of ice with occa- sional protruding boulders. We pushed on hoping to find some bluff point or channel of water by which w' might reach the shore, but the appearance of things did not change i the slightest. We stood up in our canoes and climbed upon boulders, vainly hoping to at least get a glimpse of land. Of course we knew the direction in which the shore lay, but it was so low and we were so far out that it was beyond our view. Soon the shades of night began to fall about us, our canoes were'Ieaking badly and the the weather was bitterly cold. We tried our utmost to reach the shore, but failing, resolved to await the time of high tide, which was 10 p.m., when it was hoped we might do better. Ten o'clock came, however, and we were still in the same condition, no more able to penetrate the ice or gain the shore than before. Indeed before this it had become intensely dark, and now we were in great danger of being smashed by ice or rocks We were utterly helpless and so could do nothing but remain where we were or go where the tide chose to carry us until the return of daylight. k — 15 — The hours of that night were the longest that I have ever experi- enced, and the odds seemed to be against us surviving until morning; but at last the day returned and we were all alive. My brother was nearly frozen, having been obliged to sit or lie in icy water all night. Poor little Mitchel had both of his feet frozen, and several others of us were badly used up. Still we were in the same position as we had been in the night before. We could not hold out very much longer, we must gain the shore or perish At the time of high tide, the ice having somewhat loosened, our canoes were thrust into the pack, and by great exertion as well as mucU care we succeeded about one o'clock in reaching solid ice upon which we were able to land, and, for the last time, haul out our noble little crafts. We had been in them just thirty hours, battling with the ice, exposed to a chilling winter blast, our clothing saturated and frozen, and our bodies faint and numb with starvation and cold. But we were now within reach of the land, and all of us who were able gladly scrambled out upon the ice to stretch our cramped and stiffened limbs. My brother was not able to walk, but was in a perishing condition from the exposure of the night. He had barely been able to keep his canoe afloat by bailing, and had been sitting in water for seventeen hours. I wrap- ped him up as warmly as I could in one of the canoes and admin- istered half a bottle of Jamaica ginger, the last of our stock. We then set about hauling the canoes over the ice to the shore, which we soon reached and where we were so fortunate as to find drift- wood. A fire was soon made, camp pitched, and, still more, a meal prepared. On the previous day a seal — the only one secured on the trip — had been shot and was now about to be appreciated. Camp L being pitched my brother was moved to our tent, whilst the weaker of the men sought shelter in theirs. The three western men were still fairly strong, but the remaining five of us were very weak and badly used up We knew now, however, that we could be no very great dis- , tance from Churchill for we liad again reached the wooded country, ] and two or thre miles back from the shore could be seen dark clumps of spruce trees. This was a most consoling fact, for, besides having meat for several days, we now felt that we would have shelter and fire. As to again launching our canoes, that was entirely out of the question, so that if we would reach Churchill at all it must be by land. As most of us were unable to walk, the only course open appeared to be to send on some of the stronger men to, if possible, reach the Fort and bring back a relief party This plan was proposed, and two of the western men, Jim and John, volunteered to undertake the walk. We thought the distance could not be more than fifty miles and might be considerably less. On the following morning, the i6th of October, the two men set out on their journey, v^hilst those of us remaining proceeded to move our tents back from the shore about two miles to the nearest woods, where we might make ourselves more comfortable to await the success or failure of our relief party. A sheltered spot was selected for our camp, in a thick grove of spruce trees, and after mm / — 16 — clearing away about two feet of snow which covered the ground, the tents were pitched, then well carpeted with spruce bought, and a big camp fire made. This was indeed a happy change from lying in our canoes in the ice pack. Clothing and blankets were now dried, and with the seal meat besides some ptarmigans which we shot in tlie groves, we were soon very comfortable, with the exception, perhaps, of poor Mitchel who suffered much from his frozen ieet. About one o'clock on the afternoon of our third day at this camp, as we were all seated within our tents enjoying our dinner of boiled ptarmigans, my brother and I were startled by hearing some one exclaim '♦ Halloo Jim ? " The eagerness with which we scrambled over dinner and dishes to our tent door, can better be imagined than described, and upon looking out, sure enough there was Jim returning. Was he alone ? No, thank the Lord ! Behind him, a moment later, emerged from the woods, other strange men, followed by teams of dogs and sleds. One after the other there came scampering along no less than four teams hauling long, enpty sleds, capable of furnish- ing accommodation for our whole outfit. As they drew up at our camp, Jim advanced and handed us letters from the trader and Mr. and Mrs. Lofthouse — the missionary and his wife — whose acquain- tance I had the pleasure of making on two former visits to Churchill. The letters were not mere expressions of sympathy, but were accom- panied by such provisions atj we might require until we should all reach the Fort. It would be difficult to describe our feelings upon this occasion, the termination of our many hardships After a hard two days' tramp through the deep snow, Jim and John had reached Fort Churchill, where they had found kind friends ready to send us assistance. Dog teams had been placed at their disposal, provisions supplied, and early on the morning of the same day on which they had found us, the train had set out for our relief. With light sleds they had travelled at a rapid pace over the thirty miles of snowy plains which were found to still separate us from our haven. Another day of good travel in our canoes would have taken us in, but this was not afforded us. With as little delay as possible preparations were begun for our sled journey to the Fort on the following day. Canoes were hauled up from the shore— where we had been obliged to leave them — and loaded upon two of the sleds ; camp outfit and provisions were loaded upon the others, and as far as possible everything was made ready for an early start in the morning. Long before dayhght camp was astir, breakfast was partaken of by the light of the camp fire, and at the first streaks of dawn our crippled party, loaded upon the dog sleighs, was wending its way to Churchill. The snow being very soft at this early season, the travelling was heavy and comparatively slow, but being anxious to make the Fort in the one day, the teams were urged on. At a sheltered spot, rather ~ 17 — more than halfway to Churchill, a brief halt was made for dinner and to rest the dogs ; but without allowing,' the usual time for a smoke, we again pushed on At three o'clock in the afternoon we reached the bottom of Button's Bay, and thence shaping our course north-easterly, we arriv- ed about two hours later, at the base of a long range of rocky hills. E'er some time we skirted the foot of these, until, reaching a low place in the ridge, we turned up the steep path, and after a short climb to the crest, we found ourselves within full view of Fort Chur- chill. Though consisting of only four or five old frame buildings, the sight to us was one of profound satisfaction, and for a moment we paused on the summit of the ridge to take in the realities of the situa- tion. Little time, however, was afforded for reflection, for at the crack of the driver's whip the teams bounded forward, galloped down the steep slope, and without slackening their pace, sped across the plains below, until they came to a halt in front of the house of the Hudson Bay Company's trader. Presently a tall young Scotchman came out to receive us, introducing himself as Mr. Matheson, the master of the Fort. We felt a little taken back upon at once being asked how long we expected to remain ; however we arranged with him for quarters and rations for our men and board for ourselves until such time as we might be able to continue our journey on foot. ( I T V y dfe 1^^ y »p 190 lyi *jo*^' ucc ,:S£H