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Briilitoii, the Mem Qoeei of Eonlisli Mm Places. 
 
 Scarlioniiiiili, tite NortlterD Eopress of the Seasiile. 
 Versailles, aiil the Lioi Hoint of Waterloo. 
 
 INAUGURAL ADDRESS, 
 
 J^ECTUF^E Reason 1889-3. 
 
 READ BEFORE THE LITERARY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC, 
 
 27th NOVEMBER. 1882. 
 
 BY 
 
 J. M. LeMoine, F. R. S. C. 
 
 QUEBEC: 
 
 I'JifNTED AT TIIK " MOKNINO »'lf HONK'.r.K " OKFT<!K 
 
 1882. 
 

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 THE LimAM AND HISTORIOAL SOCIiTY. 
 
 ■:o:- 
 
 27th NQVEMBER, 1882. 
 
 The winter course of Lectures was opened 
 with eclat last night at the rooms of the 
 Literary and Historical Society, by the Pre- 
 sident, J. M. LeMoine. We are enabled to- 
 day to give his interesting lecture. His sub- 
 ject was "Reminiscenses of Travel," in which 
 he dealt with Brighton, Suaibro', Versailles, 
 and the field of Waterloo. 
 
 Ladies and Gextlemex,— "I feel grateful, 
 f oi' the presence, this night, in this room, of 
 such a numerous and distinguished assem- 
 blage, at the opening of our winter course of 
 lectures. May I gatner from the circum- 
 stance an indication, if not a proof of an in- 
 creasing interest in and sympathy witii the 
 efforts of this Society to promote culture, by 
 providing intellectual amusement for its 
 members. 
 
 My special line of studies had naturally in- 
 duced me to select for this occasion a subject 
 calculated to further more immediately one of 
 the chief objects contemplated by this In- 
 stitution — the prosecution of researches bear- 
 ing on American and Canadian annals. Some 
 material had already, with this view, been 
 garnered from an extensive collection of rare 
 and old maps and charts, delineating on sea 
 and land the line of travel of the early dis- 
 coverers of America. I soon found the matter 
 vaster even than I had anticipated ; in fact 
 requiring much more time than is at my dis- 
 posal. Trusting to your forgiveness, I have 
 departed from my old and beaten track and 
 shall this evening, with your permission, place 
 at your disposal, a few excerpts from a Diary 
 of Travel, I kept during a two months' ab- 
 sence from home in July and August, 1881. 
 To many here present, what I have to say, I 
 ween, can have no novelty. It may possibly 
 serve to refresh the memory of those sight- 
 seers, who have preceeded me and prepare the 
 minds of those who may come after me. 
 
 Let us then first view Kmg George IV. 's 
 Elysiup. 
 
 BRIGHTON. 
 
 As a fashionable sea-bathing resort, 
 where the upper tendom of London disport 
 themselves in sickness as well as in health, I 
 saw no spot more ijatronised, more gorgeously 
 and effectually equipped for pleasure and 
 health, than the lovely* town of Brighton on 
 the Southern coast of England. 
 
 Brighton, with a population of 10;^,2Sl 
 souls, and un annual influx of over 50,000 
 •■ourista and visitors, was an obscure fishing 
 /illage down to 1753— in the county of Sussex. 
 'Tis now famous through all England. 
 Brighton's original name was Brighthelmston, 
 froni Brighthelm, an Anglo-Saxon Bishop, 
 who is reputed to have founded it in the lOrh 
 century, and tun, a town. Local histories 
 tell us that the Romans had a settlement 
 here — as proved by the numerous coins and 
 other antiquities of tlie Roman period which 
 have been found from time to time. The 
 lord of the soil in the llth century was the 
 great Earl Godwin, the father of the last 
 Anglo-Saxon King, Harold, who, as you 
 know, lost his Kingdom and his life at the 
 battle of Hastings (1 4th Oct., 1066.) 
 
 From its proximity to London, 'tis indeed a 
 welcome haven of repose— a aa?ii<oriM?w for 
 the wearied Londoner, longing for the Sunday 
 or holiday, to tear himself from the great 
 Babylon of wealth, squalor, trade, intellect 
 and smoke. ' 
 
 The 3 p.m. express train from the London 
 Bridge, or Victoria Railway station, rushes 
 yoH in one hour and twenty mmutes past 
 rows of suburban brick cottages, leafy old 
 manors, ivy-mantled chapels, medieval 
 churches, under lofty viaducts, over the 
 fifty-one intervening miles between the me- 
 tropolis and the loved sea-side resort. 
 
 For a western traveller like me, never ena- 
 moured with the English style of railway travel 
 
-2 
 
 and 1>aggage- checking system, judge of my 
 thankfulnesbon my emerging safeaud unharm- 
 ed from the dark, sooty, underground tunnel, 
 thcUIajton taauol, ::oar Crf^y^on ' Omytlon 
 where only a few days previous had been 
 brought the mangled remains of poor old Mr. 
 Ciould. His murderer, Lefroy, whose name 
 was in every mouth, was then yet unconvicted, 
 unhung, unrepresented in Madam Toussaud's 
 Chamber of Horrors, which I was soon to 
 visit. These small locked railway 
 compartments, they may be a British 
 institution, but the country has other ; 
 has better institutions than this. Possibly 
 when some future Lefroy will have chloro- 
 formed or garotted a peer of the realm, a 
 Lord Mayor, a Bishop, or even a Railway 
 Director— the torch of enquiry will light up 
 this question, and unprotected passengers per 
 rail will cease to be promiscuously locked up 
 in solitary railway compartments with garot- 
 ters and murderers. Croydon has a popula- 
 tion of 58,000 inhabitants ; it was formerly 
 the country residence of the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury. 
 
 At 4.30 p.m. I found myself on bhe steps of 
 the Grand Hotel, at Brighton, sniffing the 
 salt sea air and gazing at the vast sunlit, 
 sparkling bay, fringed with countless bathing 
 houses, studded by whole fleets of sailing and 
 row boats, while the grey, level sands and 
 Esplanade above were densely packed with 
 bathers and pleasure-seekors of both sexes. 
 Bath chairs, in which lounged rheumatic old 
 dowagers with fans, vigorously fanning their 
 withered, though still ruddy English cheeks, 
 whi'st sturdy porters wheeled their bath 
 chairs across the Esplanade, and chaises filled 
 with rosy children, drawn by mules, donkeys, 
 or goats, with here and there a velocipede, 
 whirred past. 
 
 How lively the scene and sweet the sounds, 
 when the moon's beams slumbered on the 
 murmuring surf — and a city band, from the 
 new West Pier, seat forth during the still- 
 ness of the evening, its soft strains ! This 
 promenade each evening is much frequented ; 
 the band plays until ten, and "God Save the 
 Queen is the signal for a general break up. 
 
 The city has a high reputation for its 
 healthy climate and its invigorating sea- 
 breezes. "Thackeray, in The Newcomer, call- 
 ed it "Merry Doctor Brighton," and sport- 
 ing novels are full ot references to the hunt- 
 ing which is famous in the neighborhood. 
 Well-known packs of harriers and fox-hounds 
 meet almost daily during the winter months 
 at points within easy reach ot Brighton. The 
 young gentlemen of England can hunt and 
 nirt to their hearts' content from the opening 
 of cub-hunting until the last fox has been 
 killed ; for there are balls, routa, concerts. 
 
 receptions, all the time. Brighton is a gay 
 place for the poor scions of noble houses on 
 the look-out for heircHseH ; a choice hunting 
 c^rniind for penniless adventurers on the watch 
 for rich widowH ; modern D'Oraays and Beau 
 Brummels find pleasant occupation here at 
 the clubs and in society ; while generals with- 
 out regiments and parvenus with country es- 
 tates and houses in town pose in the sun at 
 the most popul ir hour of the day for doing 
 the thretj-rnile drive by the sea. One day, 
 at the fashionable season of the year, not 
 long since, I stood at the door of the Old 
 Ship, and it seemed to me as if Hyde Park, 
 Regent street, and Mayfair had just been 
 emptied, carriages, horses, servants, and all, 
 into the King's Road ; cabinet ministers and 
 their wives, pewrs and peeresses, journalists, 
 artists, members of Parliament, actors, am- 
 bassadors from foreign courts, operatic sing- 
 ers—a motley crowd — moving along as if en- 
 gaged in a formal procession en route for 
 some stately rendezvous " 
 
 I find in my diary the following foot 
 note, which may interest the ladies. "One 
 does occasionally meet with what one 
 might be inclined to style, over-power- 
 ing toilettes, in these thronged sea-side 
 resorts. On our way from Brighton to Ant- 
 werp, in the crowd of English travellers who 
 besieged with us the tahln d'hote, in the 
 sumptuous hotel du Grand Laboureur, at 
 Antwerp, I shall not easily forget the sensa- 
 tion created by the appearance of an aesthetic 
 Damozel, apparelled in the most advanced 
 style. 
 
 In order to stand revealed as a blooming 
 Hebe, or a full blown Helen, 'tis not suffi- 
 cient for a plain girl to don cathedral-grey 
 colors and uhades dear to the great Oscar, 
 with a string of blue beads round her neck, 
 and a sunflower, lily, or chrysanthemum in 
 her belt, tight-fitting sleeves and big puffs at 
 the elbows and shoulders ; hair, cut short and 
 frizzled to look like the grilled quilla of a 
 porcupine ! The sunflower did indeed cause 
 a sensation, but assuredly she did not seem 
 what men like to call 'a pretty creature.' 
 
 My next neighbor at table, a polite Parisian 
 with whom I happened to be conversing, 
 evidently startled by the strange apparition 
 of this aesthetic Venus, turned up in horror 
 the white of his eyes, and leaning over to me, 
 close to my ear, his agonized feelings found 
 vent in one expression — one only *Mais, c'est 
 affr-eux!!'" 
 
 Brighton, the "Queen of the Southern wa- 
 tering place — as she is styled — has indeed.many 
 attractive sights — none more so than her spa- 
 cious beach, hergrandaquarinm — "the largest 
 fresh and salt water aquarium in the world"— 
 you are told, and the gorgeous pavilion, near 
 
— 3 - 
 
 on is a gay 
 ) houseB on 
 :e hunting 
 t the watoh 
 9 and Beau 
 ion here at 
 leralawith- 
 30untry ea- 
 
 the sun at 
 
 r for doing 
 
 One day, 
 
 e year, not 
 
 of the Old 
 lyde Park, 
 1 just been 
 ts, and all, 
 listers and 
 journalists, 
 actors, am- 
 sratic sing- 
 ng as if en- 
 I route for 
 
 >wing foot 
 ies. "One 
 what one 
 )ver-power- 
 id sea-side 
 )n to Ant- 
 vellers who 
 yte, in the 
 boureur, at 
 t the sensa- 
 an sesthetic 
 advanced 
 
 a blooming 
 s not suffi- 
 bedral-grey 
 ;reat Oscar, 
 d her neck, 
 ;hemum in 
 big pufifs at 
 t short and 
 
 quilla of a 
 deed cause 
 I not seem 
 lature.' 
 ite Parisian 
 :onversing, 
 
 apparition 
 ip in horror 
 over to me, 
 ilings found 
 
 *Mai8, c'est 
 
 uthern wa- 
 ndeed.many 
 an her spa- 
 "the largest 
 he world"— 
 vilion, near 
 
 the old Steyne square, dating from ITS'), the 
 Marine Villa of the Prince of Wulea— later 
 on, George IV. 
 
 What gave rise to it, it seems, waa a visit 
 this gay Lothario paid to his uncle and aunt, 
 the Duke and Duchess of Cumberland, in 
 1782. Young Prince George waa «o charmed 
 during a sojourn there of eleven days, with 
 the "Haoher village," that he determined to 
 have a marine villa at Brighton : nay, it coat 
 over £250,000 sterling of English tax-payers 
 money to complete and decorate this Alhain- 
 bra — this costly eastern dream of an Engliah 
 Prince. The building waa first known as the 
 Rotunda, when owned by its Royal Founder, 
 the Prince of Wales. It was styled in 1824, 
 the Pavilion. VVilli«t,(n iV added' the northern 
 and southern gateways. 
 
 I can recall on a bright July morning, wind- 
 ing my way in the Pavilion grounds to visit 
 this striking, fairy-liko abode. Suite after 
 suite of lofty, circular, oval or square rooms, 
 ornamented with tapestry and chandeliers nf 
 exquisite workmanship ; the most costly of 
 chandeliers is that hung in the Banquetting 
 Room. This lustre has quite a story. 
 
 It had been intended, in 1814, as a gift, by 
 the English Government to the Emperor of 
 China, with the object of opening up com- 
 mercial relations with the Brother oF the 8uii 
 and Moon. The English ambassador, Lord 
 Macartney, failing in his negotiations, the 
 chandelier, which had cost £2,000 sterling, 
 was brought back to England and placed in 
 the Brighton Pavilion by the Prince Regent. 
 
 There it remained till William IV and 
 Queen Adelaide occupied the Pavilion, when 
 His Majesty, we are told, ordered its re- 
 moval, not however from any want of appre- 
 ciation of its beauty, but from a superstitious 
 belief in dreams. Queen Adelaide having 
 dreamed that the chandelier had fallen down 
 and crushed some of the attendants upon the 
 Court, Her Royal husband had it removed, 
 fearing that some of the supports which 
 held it, would give way and that a fatal 
 accident might occur. 
 
 For several years the chandelier lay stored 
 away in a workshop in St. James place, Brigh- 
 ton, but on Queen Victoria using the Pavilion 
 as a marine residence, it waa restored to its 
 original position, being again removed when 
 the Pavilion was dismantled, on Her Majesty 
 giving up Brighton for Osborne. The chande- 
 lier was removed with the other fittings to 
 Buckingham Palace, where it remained till 
 1864, when it was again restored as now 
 seen. To this brief sketch of the great 
 chandelier and its vicissitudes may be added 
 the fact, that the vessel which brought it 
 back from China waa wrecked on her home- 
 ward voyage. 
 
 Spare prechulcs my dwelling on all the 
 ea.stern splemlor of the Royal Pavilion — its 
 spaciuuH vestibule, Chinese corridor, ex(^ui- 
 aite music mom, aumptuuua banquetting 
 Hall, gaudy diawing room, etc. 
 
 As to the bancjuetting room and its arch- 
 ed, eniblaisnned dome, no word painting can 
 produce a faitliful portraiture. What parti- 
 cularly struck mc, waa a coruice of a most 
 elegant form, nrnatnented at the top with the 
 leaf uf the Chiueae lily, and at the bottom 
 with pendant trefoila and hells ; the centrea 
 of the arches were pierced with oblong, 
 stained wiiidowa boidered with gold 
 and ponrl and tlio lozeugeshaped panes were 
 embellished with Chinese devices and mytho- 
 logical animals. The domed ceiling repre- 
 sents an Eastern sky against which a gigantic 
 palm tree rears its broad and luxuriant head, 
 and, mingled with its spreading foliage, ita 
 produce hanga in cluatei-a in every stage of 
 development, from the opening blossom to the 
 ripening fruit. Beneath the resplendent 
 waving leaves floats an immense fiery dragon, 
 carrying in its claws the stupendous chande- 
 lier already spoken of, and from the four 
 angles of the cornioe issue, in full flight, as if 
 al;.irmed by the dragon, four splendidly carv- 
 ed and brillantly painted figures 
 
 each supporting a lustre corresponding in ele- 
 gance and not inferior in brilliancy to the 
 large chandelier in the centre. Such is the 
 description dinned in my ear by my Brighton 
 ciceronne ; but enough of this gilt — shall we 
 say — tawdry pageant of a distant, but pro- 
 fligate era. What has history to write anent 
 the master of this Eastern Pagoda ? How 
 much Bordeaux, Burgundy, Clos V ougeot and 
 old Cognac haa been quaffed, under the rays 
 which of yore deaoended from that same chan- 
 delier by that handsome, gay, witty, but god- 
 less Prince, that heartless voluptuary and hia 
 heartless wassailers ? 
 
 And when saunteringoverthosegroundswith 
 their gravelly walks and stately trees, past the 
 marble statue of that worthy Mayor of 
 Brighton knighted by the Queen in 1873, Sir 
 Cordy Burrows, my thoughts reverted to 
 the scene so thrilliugly recalled by the 
 great satirist of England — the first gen 
 tlemen of Europe looking approvingly on 
 the disgrace of a grey-haired and great 
 nobleman, the Duke of Norfolk, I asked 
 myself, where now are the once envied, but 
 now " defunct revelers who boxed and 
 gambled, and drank and drove with King 
 George. " 'lis true the Master of Carlton 
 House, at one time consorted with men like 
 Burke, Pitt, Sheridan. Fox. 'Tis certain 
 that in 1823, he was on his visit to Scotland, 
 championed by that "royal cavalier" and 
 wondrous writer Walter Scott, but the gilt 
 
and velvet cushioned halls of the lirighton 
 Alhambra, the Rotunda, more than once 
 echoed the coarse ribaldry of horse jockeys, 
 buffoons, procurers, tailors, boxers, fencing, 
 masters," to the disgust no doubt of poor, de- 
 serted Queen Caroline, and even of pretty Mrs. 
 Fitzherbert. These were the palmy days of 
 the first gentleman of Europe— alas ! And 
 was it not natural, even had the growing 
 town not concealed the view of the sea, from 
 the Pavilion, that accustomed to a pure so- 
 cial atmosphere, our spotless sovereign in 
 1844, should have bid adieu to George IV's, 
 Marine Villa, his petit Trianon, at Bright- 
 on ! 
 
 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 "The gazing seaman here entranced stands, 
 While, fair unfolding from her concave slope. 
 He Scarborough views. The sandy pediment 
 First, gently raised above the wat'ry plain, 
 Embraces wide the waves; the lower domes 
 Next lift their heads ; then awiftly roof o'er 
 
 roof, 
 With many a weary step, the streets arise, 
 Testitudinous, till half o'ercome the cliff, 
 A swelling fabric, dear to heaven, aspires, 
 Majestic even in ruin. *•♦«♦♦ 
 But see yon citadel, with heavy walls, 
 That rise still prouder on the mountain's peak. 
 From Eurus, Boreas, and the kindred storms. 
 Shielding the favored haven." 
 
 (Mark FoMcr.) 
 
 My recollections of this famous summer re- 
 treat will ever retain a green place in my 
 memory from being conuecteii with a very 
 agreeable excursion to Scarborough, when at- 
 tending at York, in September, 1881, the 
 meetings of the British Association, whoso, 
 fiftieth anniversary was solemnized with so 
 much pxlat. 
 
 If Brighton is reckoned the Southern Queen 
 of English watering places, Scarborough is 
 
 J'ustly proud of the title she hear», of the 
 rorthern Queen of Watering Places. "Nest- 
 ling in the recess of a lovely bay, with a coast 
 extending to Flamborough Head ; presenting 
 an almost boundless extent of ocean ; con- 
 stantly bearing on its waters fleets of vessels 
 passing to and fro ; possessing^au extensive 
 beach of smooth and firm sands, sloping down 
 to the sea with rocks and deeply indented 
 bays, gradually rising two hnndred feet from 
 the very shore in successive tiers of well- 
 drained streets, in the form of am amphi- 
 theatre on the concave surface, as it were 
 of a semi-circular bay ; the venerable walls of 
 Soarborough Castle adorning the summit of a 
 promontory three hundred feet high, forming 
 the Eastern apex" ; its splendid iron bridges four 
 hundred feet in length, the numerous fishing 
 and pleasure boats and steamers, its sands | 
 
 crowded with a joyous company, riding, driv- 
 ing, walking or bathing ; all these features 
 combine to make the place exceedingly at- 
 tractive. On alighting from the train on the 
 outskirts of the town I wan particularly struck 
 with the commanding appearance of Oliver's 
 Mount (wrongly, it is said, Jonnectod with 
 Old Ironsides.) It rises six hundred feet 
 above the level of the sea. Leaving aside for 
 lack of time the saline and mineral springs, 
 celebrated as far back as 1620, I has- 
 tened to pay my respects to the ! 
 hoary ruins of its grim old fortres — Scar- 
 borough Castle. The Romans once occupied | 
 the lofty promontory where the castle was I 
 subsequently built by the Earl of Albemarle 
 in the year 1136. The castle was taken in] 
 1.312. It had been repeatedly besieged in I 
 1536. "When the rebellion broke out, it| 
 was held for the King by Sir Hugh Cholme- 
 ley. In February, 1644, the town yr&» storm- 
 ed by the Parliamentary forces under Sirl 
 John Meldrum, but the fortress held out,| 
 and only capitulated after a most gallant de-J 
 fence with all the honors of war. Many of{ 
 Sir Hugh's officers and soldiers were in so 
 weak a condition that they had to be brought 
 out in sheets ; others were helped out be'l 
 tween two men ; and all of them were unablq 
 to march. Lady Cholmeley was with hei 
 husband during the siege, and greatly assist! 
 ed in the defence, nursing, tenf^ng and feedl 
 ing the sick and dressing the wounds of th{ 
 woumled. So impressed were the Parlial 
 mentary leaders with the importance of thl 
 position, tiiat they ordered a day of thank/ 
 giving for the capitulation of the fortress, Ij 
 1648, it had to undergo a second siege." Thi 
 rare little bit of history, disclosing the Floj 
 ence Nightingale of the period, Lady Cholmf 
 ley, as a heroine, I mention for the especi| 
 information of my lady hearers. It gave 
 much more interest in the venerable, storr 
 beaten fort, than the information which 
 guide imparted, viz : that "in 1666, Geord 
 Fox, the founder of the Society of Friendl 
 was confined here. " 
 
 From these airy heights, of Castle Cliff,| 
 descended leisurely, musing on what 
 newly-discovered heroine, Lady CholmeleJ 
 might be like, occasionally gazing seawarl 
 where huge ships were tossing like cod 
 shells on the troubled bosom of the Germj 
 Ocean ; I walked across the stone bridj! 
 which replaced the draw-bridge of the cast| 
 removed in 1826, and was soon comfortat 
 seated in the ample hall of the leading h<j 
 telry. This costly structure, also known] 
 the Grand Hotel, the sea front of which! 
 ten stories high, is reputed one of the larg^ 
 hotels in England ; 'tis certainly very roor 
 elegant and picturesquely located. 
 
-8- 
 
 ir, ridinK, driv- 
 these features 
 ixceedingly at- 
 [le train on the 
 bicularly struck 
 nee of Olivers 
 onnectod with 
 
 hundred feet 
 laving aside for 
 ineral springs, 
 
 1620, I ha»- 
 ects to the 
 d fortres— Scar- 
 g once occupied 
 (the castle was 
 ,arl of Albemarle 
 e was taken in 
 sdly besieged in 
 1 broke out, it 
 r Hugh Cholme- 
 town wa« storm-l 
 orces under Sir' 
 jrtress held out, 
 
 most gallant de 
 3f war. Many o 
 
 Id connection with the Kill of fare of these 
 
 Humptuou<i hotels, there is one feature at 
 
 which Brillat'Savarin would fall in ecatacies ; 
 
 that is the fish course: fried soles — delicate, 
 
 tiny shrimps- exquisite white bait— luscious 
 
 lo'jkfyne herrings and such turbut ! I found 
 
 1 knew not what a good herring was until, I 
 
 feasted on a fat one, fresh from the heuther- 
 
 cented locks of old Scotia. 
 
 No wonder a suuues>*ful Londoner longs to 
 
 rasp the envied position of an Alderaiau, so 
 
 hat his turbot existence may commence ; the 
 
 hole thing was made clear to me. 
 
 There is less glitter in the large hotels 
 
 eyond ttie sea, than in those on our side — 
 
 tirhaps more comfort ; no where did I see 
 
 nything to came up for splendor with our 
 
 Windsor." 
 
 The most popular place', of amusement at 
 
 Scarborough are the Spa — the Aquarium — the 
 
 useum. The new Spa u:>mpri8es a range of 
 
 uildings opened in 18S0 by the Lord Mayor 
 
 nd Lady Mayoress of London — the L')rd 
 
 ayorof York and the Mayor of Scarbirough. 
 
 t includes a vast hall capable of seating 3,000 
 
 ildiers ^^""^ ^^pu^jersons, a spacious promenade, a pretty 
 had to be broug W^eatre, a restaurant, billiard, reading and re- 
 I helped out °®leption rooms. The Spa is the centre of 
 them were unaDi« jjj^jj^jjjg jj^^ j^^ ^^^ "season ' which here 
 iey was with polioses earlier than at Brighton ; the variety 
 md greatly a88i8« J brilliancy of the toilettes; the ever moving 
 ten'^ing ana '^^^lanorama of new faces, on the great prome- 
 the wounds 01 tn|j^^g . ^.j^^ nobility of the land, occasionally 
 ixing with the nobility of commerce ; the 
 bdued "good form," ways of this English 
 shionable crowd, so different from the gay. 
 isy votaries of fashion, I had met at some 
 the French watering places, or on the Bon- 
 ards /ialienff, left a pleas aniblo, a lasting 
 pression on my mind. 
 
 On the south cliff of the Spa, there are 
 merous, ornate dwellings, — most conspicu- 
 8, the Prinoe of Wales' Terrace. I ascended 
 ere by means of the lift or elevator, an easy 
 d much used mode of communication 
 tween this lofty riilge and the promenade 
 low; the view and the elevator reminded 
 powerfully of our Upper and Lower T<)wn 
 d of our Quebec elevator. 
 
 were the Parlial 
 importance of thi 
 d adayofthankd 
 of the fortress. II 
 second siege." Thi 
 disclosing the Flol 
 jriod, LadyCholmJ 
 ion for the especii] 
 learers. It gave 
 te venerable, storr 
 rmation which n 
 It "in 1666, Geord 
 Society of Frien(l| 
 
 ts, of Castle Cliff,] 
 as'ing on what 
 e Lady Cholmele 
 Iv gazing seawarlScarborough is famous for its saline springs 
 e tossing like cockE piers jetting far out in the sea and wliich 
 oflom of the Germfford to the discipl IS of fashion many plea- 
 io . -i-M-ij tetg.ati'te. The town is separated in 
 
 parts by a valley, but couuected by 
 bridges which obviate the necessity of 
 ent of the one hill and ascent of the other, 
 of ty situation, rugged scenery and historical 
 ivenirs, in my opinion award it the palm 
 °ed onVo! the largf Jr her luxurious, more ancient and more 
 aertainly very room altby rival, Brighton, the holiday resort of 
 y located. a* London 
 
 lilt v/» 
 
 , the stone brid; 
 bridge of the cafltl 
 as soon comfortal: 
 of the leading h 
 cture, also known 
 sea front of which 
 
 VERSAILLES. 
 
 Let us bid adieu to the white clifTs of old 
 England — the Island home of a free people, 
 of a privileged, exclusive but cultured no- 
 bility, tracing back to William the Norman — 
 the seat of learning as well aa the paradise of 
 wealth, civilization and commerce. 
 
 Let us steer for Dieppe -Rouen — the sunny 
 banks of the Seine— for brilliant, gay Paris. 
 
 Here we are comfortably housed in the 
 Hotel Binda, /'nc df rEchfllf, close to the 
 A I'finif df Vitjtera, not very far from the 
 royal Louvre, the Ghamps-Elysees, the Seine 
 and its fourteen bridges. Oh ! how long we 
 would like to tarry here, that is provided 
 any one could guarantee us that a Nihilist, 
 Socialist or Communist mob might not rise in 
 the night and burn us to a cinder in the 
 smoking ruins of the capital ! 
 
 Adieu ! then for the present grim historical 
 Louvre, with your inexhaustible treasures of 
 art. &c. Adieu for a few hours, lofty taper- 
 ing, sculptured medieval church spires! Adieu 
 green, solenm groves of the Bois de Boulogne 
 only now recuperating from the wholesale 
 devastations intlio*^ed in 1871. by those 
 enemies from w^thiu, more merciless by far 
 than the Prussians, — the Paris Commune ! 
 
 However varied and powerful the attrac- 
 tions of Paris, there has been for us, from our 
 earliest youth another spot, which in our day- 
 dreams we used to picture to ourselves as a 
 vista of those oriental palaces of which we 
 had read in the "Arabian Nights," such mar- 
 velous tales : that is the summer palace — 
 parks and hunting grounds of French Kings, 
 from Louis XIII downwards— gaudy — inimit- 
 able Versailles. And yet how obscure its be- 
 ginnings ! History makes mention of a cer- 
 tain Hugo de Versaliis — a contemporary of 
 the first Capetian Kings, who owned a seig- 
 norial manor — on the very site where the 
 famous palace now stands. Little could be 
 have foreseen then the day would come when 
 the solitude round his hunting lodge, in the 
 narrow valle)' of Versailles would echo to the 
 brilliant /c^cs given to the crowned heads of 
 Europe by the greatest sovereign of the Bour- 
 bon race of Kings, and that the hunting 
 carols of proud nobles as well as the *'clairo)i 
 (lit rot" the accents of eloquent prelates lik^ 
 Bossuet and Maaillon — the boisterous songs 
 of the banquet — of the godless wassailers of 
 Louis XV and his Pompadours and Dubarrys 
 would on a future day replace the sweet 
 chimes of the Antidtts, at the litte priory 
 church of Saint Julien, clcso by. 
 
 In days of yore. Baron Hugo, and later on, 
 his descendants on returning from their expe- 
 ditions to Spain against the Moors, or from 
 repelling the Northmen, used to tarry for a 
 
— - 
 
 : f 
 
 while Bt his Manor ; and after returninu 
 tliaiika t') Stiitit .hiliun, for the HiicfeHH of 
 their arms, they would orgiuii/o a hunt in the 
 deep, virgin forest of \ orauilicH, wiierd nature 
 has had to diHuppear before art. 
 
 A few oenturieH bark, when the seigniory of 
 Versailles was owned l)y Martial de Leo- 
 menie, it is recorded how the unsuKpecting 
 neitinior, in order to escape the St. Unrthole- 
 mew massacre, had made u gift of ids lands 
 to (iondi, Mareclial do lletz. who had un<ler- 
 taken to ol)tain protection for him ; and how 
 tho infamous Marshal having had him mur- 
 dered on the 'iiSth August, the feast of Saint 
 Julien, he had liimself proclaimed Seignior 
 ami took under the dais, the honored placa of 
 Ilia victim. History in the past recks with 
 accounts of similar foul deeds. 
 
 It was Louis XIII. who, in l().'U, caused 
 his architect, Jac(|U08 Lemorcier, to erect, 
 on an eminence crowned l>y a mill, where 
 after a toilsome hunt he was in the habit 
 of finding a too modest place of rest, 
 the chateau of wiiich his son Louis X1V\, 
 out of regard to his royal parent, pre- 
 served a part — that included in the Cour ilf 
 Mai'hrc (Marble Court), and which the ta- 
 lented Mansart sat like a curious gem, in the 
 splendid casket, erected by his genius. 
 
 Louis XIII., was in the habit of spending 
 the summer at VersailleH and the rest of the 
 year at the Castle of St. Germain, whei'e he 
 expired on the 14th March. IG43. 
 
 Louis XIV., born at St. Germain, on the 
 5th September, 1638, came for the first time 
 to visit his father's Chateau, at Versailles, on 
 the 18th April, lUol, since which period he 
 frequently returned to hunt there ; he had 
 also, 'tis said, taken a dislike to St. Germain, 
 as it commanded a view of the tower of St. 
 Denis, the royal burying place. Thejfirst enter- 
 tainment given at Versailles by the King took 
 place in 1664. Moliere, attached to the royal 
 household as valet de chamhre, as he was 
 styled, with his troop of actors had selected 
 as a comic piece Len Plaisirs de I' Ik Enchan- 
 tee, of which Benserade and President de 
 Perigay had composed the recitative in verse, 
 whilst LuUi had composed the music and di- 
 rected the ballet scene, and an Italian named 
 Varini took charge of the decorations and 
 pyrotechnic display. Moliere had also 
 acted at the first fete his Prin- 
 cesse 'Elide and Les Farheux. The 
 grani receptiona and regal entertain- 
 ments continued at Versailles, where the 
 King ^ was having important works carried 
 on by his architects, Levau, Dorbay and Man- 
 sart. It was on the 6th May, 1682, that the 
 Great Louis removed his household gods to 
 Versailles. The highest talent of every order 
 had been enlisted by the monarch to design 
 
 and <1e(;orato the royal demesne and caitio, 
 where tl')iked tho m its, great writers, illus- 
 trious divines, us will as the court favorites, 
 tho do III Siiiiliero, Montespdn, .Maintenon t-t 
 <t/iitr. From these various groups aroio like, 
 an ambrosial atmiKsphere, towards the (Irauil 
 Moudi'i/ni', the dangerous fumes of flattery, 
 sometimes, of shameless servility Was he 
 not the King, who, on ascending the tlirone, 
 had told his Parliament "I'Ktat, c'est moi ?' 
 — "The State, 'tis •*." He, too, on viewing 
 his costly pet creation, could sny, "Versailles, 
 'tianie." Versailles was in leed Louis XIV. 
 all over. Those sculptured groups ; those 
 noiile paintings of memorable events compass- 
 ed by i)im ; those series of victories due to 
 Krench courage, French blood, French lievotion ; 
 those thunderbolts of war, Conde, Turenne, 
 Villara, itc, put forward by him — sur- 
 rounding him — looking up to him as the 
 sun of the planet where they revolved, far 
 away beneath him — sometimes forgotten or 
 in disgrace : all s^toke at Versailles of the 
 great Louis. Happy were they to be admit- 
 ted in his Council Chamber, reception or 
 banquetting room to sing the praise of the 
 august monarch, let us udd, of the selfish, 
 spoilt Sultan of glittering Versailles. 
 
 It was a happy idea which inspired Louis 
 Philippe in 183'2, to repeople, with the names, 
 glory and souvenirs of the great men, who 
 in tho past had lit up this evanescent 
 pageantry, by gathering there, the portraits of 
 these worthie9,the views of the battles they had 
 fought for their country. Thanks to Philippe 
 Champagne, Lebrun, Puget, Ary Scheffer, 
 Paul Delaroche, Horace Vernet, the Muntf 
 JJwtorique de VerHuUles, formed of selections 
 from the Louvre and other public galleries 
 bring you face to face with the famous writers 
 and artists of the past, as well as with the 
 warriors whose fame is the patrimony of the 
 natiou : Vendome, Schomberg, La Feuillade, 
 Luxembourg, Villeroy, Tourville, d'Estrees, 
 Catinat, Vauban, Richelieu, Biron, Villars, 
 Turenne, Conde, as well as the Generals of. 
 the Republic and Empire. The Palace Chapel, 
 a tasteful edifice, dates from 1699. The in- 
 terior is remarkable for its gorgeous old 
 i'rench decorative'style ; the exterior is adorn- 
 ed with twenty-eight statues of apostles 
 and saints. Over the entrance of the door is 
 the royal gallery, above which Jouvenet 
 
 fainted, in 1709, a Decent oj the Holy Ohost. 
 t took the painter, Charles do la Fosse, four 
 mouths to paint the Jiesurrection, over the 
 High Altar. The decorations of the altar 
 and of the side chapels are striking: 
 
 Saint Simon, in connection with the King's 
 devotions at the Royal Chapel, tells a little 
 joke, which Major Briasac, who commanded 
 the King's Guards, played on the fashionable 
 
7- 
 
 jHiio and cnRtlo. 
 t writers, illus- 
 c'ourt iavoi'ittiH, 
 I, Maintenon c 
 "oiips arose like, 
 'ariU the (iraitd 
 iinea of flattery, 
 .'ility Was he 
 ing tliu tlu'one, 
 at, cVst nioi ?' 
 too, on viewing 
 iny, "Versaillea, 
 Bed Lou in XIV. 
 groups ; thoae 
 eveiitH compasa- 
 victories due to 
 hVenchflevotion; 
 )oude, Turenne, 
 by liim — aur- 
 to him aa the 
 y revolved, far 
 08 forgotten or 
 eraailles of the 
 By to be admit- 
 r, reception or 
 be praise of the 
 of the aelfish, 
 aailles. 
 
 inspired Louis 
 with the names, 
 great men, who 
 this evanescent 
 the portraits of 
 battles they had 
 nks to Philippe 
 Ary Scheffer, 
 net, the Mimtf 
 of selections 
 sublic galleries 
 famous writers 
 1 as with the 
 brimony of the 
 La Feuillade, 
 ille, d'Estrees, 
 Biron, Villars, 
 le Generals of. 
 Palace Chapel, 
 699. The in- 
 gorgeous old 
 :terior is adorn- 
 of apostles 
 of the door is 
 hich Jouvenet 
 he Holy Ghost. 
 la Fosse, four 
 ction, over the 
 of the altar 
 king: 
 ith the King's 
 . tells a little 
 ho commanded 
 ;be fashionable 
 
 iS 
 
 brandishing hie 
 of command — 
 King wont be 
 murmur among 
 
 &m\ protty (ln'otiH of the period. The Ihuh 
 Mij- round tho palace wire in the habit of 
 crowding the chapel Heata on Sunday nftcr- 
 noona, bringing with them handHoniv little 
 tapers to throw lightnn the tcxtof their prayer 
 books, aa well aa on thtir pretty facea, ao tliat 
 each might be rccogni/<'d. It waa eaay to 
 know whether the King would attend by the 
 presence of the (luardx, who preceded the en- 
 trance of Royalty. Hriaaac on one occuaion. 
 in order to teat the point whether it waa piety 
 or vanity which brought the fair onea 
 to church m auch numhera, roae, and 
 Union, gave the word 
 "(luards. withdraw, the 
 here to-day." This cauced a 
 the ladiis; the tapers were 
 extinguiahed and the owners left, ail 
 except some truly pious onea who re maiiiod in 
 church. The seats being vacated, Brissac re- 
 called the guania, on the entrance of Royalty. 
 On leaving, Louis XIV. enquired from Hriaaac 
 the reaaou why the chapel was ao deserted 
 that day, anH being told the practical joke 
 practiaed on hia ailinirers, he joined the court 
 in a hearty laugh ; but Saint Simon adda, that 
 Major liriesac, though an intrepid aoldier, 
 scarcely dared to face alone hia fair enemies 
 rrai(/nant, he adda, d'l'fra itrutKjlc jxir c/lix, 
 lest they ahould strangle him. 
 
 The Palace itself comprises more than one 
 hundred apartments ; — had the Great I^ouia, 
 like Pygmalion, feared secret poisoning, he 
 could — like him have diversified ad in- 
 jinitum his sleeping arrangements. 
 
 Striking battle scenes, naval engagements 
 on canvass, lite-8i/.e pictures of the French 
 sovereigns, their great generals, admirals, 
 men of science, letters, — fill the nalLe den 
 Croisadcs, — salle des Spectaclen, — nalle des 
 Jtois dc France, — salle des Guerriers celebres, — 
 ijaleries den Batailles and a hundred otiiers. 
 We took special interest in Marie Antoinette's 
 boudoir, etc., with the old furniture still 
 there ; the secret staircase, through whicli 
 she escaped from the mob is shown. Louis 
 XIV. 's great dining table — still stands in the 
 centre of the royal ban({uetting room, and a 
 large marble wine cooler remains, near the 
 wall, to tell the tAle of other days. 
 
 "The town of Versailles, the capital of the 
 Seine-et-Oise department, with 49,850 inha- 
 bitants, owes its origin to Louis XIV. The 
 site was hardly favourable for a town, and 
 still less so for a park, as the water for its 
 ornamental ponds had to be conveyed to it 
 from a great distanee at a vast expense. The 
 town was called by Voltaire, 'I'abimedes 
 despenses' — its palace and park having cost 
 the treasury of Louis XIV, the enormous sum 
 of 1,000 million francs. The accounts handed 
 down to us regarding the erection of this 
 
 aumptuoua palHce and the laying out oF its* 
 grounds HJinrat lixder on the fal)ul()UH. Thui 
 no fewer than 'Mi UUO men and (i.()(l() hon-eH 
 ure auid to have been employed at one time in 
 forming the terracen of the garden, ievtlluig 
 the park, and conatrueting a read to it from 
 I'aria and an atpieduct from MaititenoH. a 
 distance of thirty-one niilea from VerKuillea. 
 Thia a<|ueiluct won intended to Iring the 
 water of tt'C river Kiire to VcrnailleH, 
 but waH iliacontinued owing to the great 
 mortality among the aoldiurH employed ; and 
 the breaking out of the war in 1(188 prevent- 
 ed the refuiiiption of the worka. The water- 
 worka of Muriy were afterwards eonatructed, 
 and a further aupply of water obtained from 
 the ponda on the plateau betwej-n Vei>adle8 
 and Uandxiuiliet. After I(i8'2, Neiauillea l)»- 
 came ti.e peiuiarient iieadejuarteia of the 
 court, and ia therefore intiniuiely aaaoei>>.ted 
 with the hiatory of that period. It witneai-ed 
 the zenith and the docadtmce of the prcfpeii- 
 ty of Louia XIV. ; and under hia aucceflsor^ 
 the magnificent pile of the "grand monar<|no'' 
 l)ecainc the i^ceiie of the (lisreputabie Pom- 
 [mdour and I)u Piarry dominatif)n. It woh at 
 tlie meeting of tf»e Ksitatea held here in 17SU 
 that the "Tiers Ktat " took the n)emr.ral)le 
 step, — the first on the way to the Revuliition, 
 — of forming itself into a separate body, the 
 Asaetnblee Nationale. A few month.s later 
 the unfortunate Louia XV^I. saw the 
 Palace of Versailles aacked by a Paris- 
 ian mob, which included many thou- 
 sand repulsive women, and since that period 
 it has remained uninhabited. During 
 the Revolution (I78!t) it narrowly eBca|)ed 
 being sold, l^apoleon neglected it owing to 
 tbe great expense w hich its repair would have 
 entaded, aud the Bourbons on their restora- 
 tion merely prevented it from falling to decay 
 and erected the pavilion on the south side. 
 Louis Philippe at length restored the build- 
 ing, and converted part of it into an historical 
 picture gallery." 
 
 From 19th September, 1870, to Gth March, 
 1871, the palace was the headquarters 
 of the King of Prussia, and a great part of 
 the edifice was then used as a military hos- 
 pital, the pictures having been carefully 
 covered to protect them from injury. An 
 impressive scene took jdace here on the I8:h 
 January, 1871, when the Prussian Monarch, 
 with the unanimous consent of the German 
 States, was saluted as Emperor of Germany. 
 To describe minutely all the events which 
 occurred at Versailles during the above period 
 would be to write a history of the Franco- 
 Prussian war. The house No. 1, Boulevard 
 du Hoi (which was pointed out to ua) was the 
 scene of the negotiations between Prince 
 Bismarck and Jules Favre on the 23rd- 
 
— 8 — 
 
 24t;h, 26th 28th January, 1871. which de- 
 cided the terms for the capitulation of 
 Paris and the preliminaries of peace. After 
 the departure of the German troops (I2th 
 March, 1871), Versailles became the seat of 
 the French Government, and it was from 
 here that Marshal MaeMahon directed the 
 8tru£;gle against the fierce outbreak of the 
 Commune. It was not till 1879 that the 
 Government and the Chambers transferred 
 their headquarters to Paris. 
 
 The town itself contains little to interest 
 travellers. The great attractions are the 
 palace and its picture gallery. 
 
 The gardens at the back of the Palace of 
 Versailles, with their park and ornamental 
 sheets of water, are nearly in the same condi- 
 tion as when laid out by Le Notre, the most 
 famous landscape gardener uf the period. Le 
 Notre and his geometrical and artificial style 
 have seen their day long since. Trees are 
 now permitted to branch out such as nature 
 intended them ; no modern landscape gar- 
 dener would attempt to torture their flexible 
 boufi;hs into resembling Grecian vases, start- 
 led fawns, or long-tailed peacocks. 
 
 The grounds are interesting on account of 
 their quaint, solemn old-fashioned appearance, 
 which harmonises admirably with the heavy 
 and formal architecture of the Palace, and is 
 in perfect keeping with the notions of art 
 which prevailed in the time of Louis XIV. 
 Here and there you notice marble statues and 
 vases copied from some celebrated originals ; 
 groups of animals in bronze, standing sentry 
 over lawns ; in bosquets ; or amid crystal 
 basins of gushing water. 
 
 One of the greatest sights is the plaving of 
 the Grandes Eaux : this generally takes place 
 on the first Sunday of every month from May 
 to October, attracting crowds of visitors ; 
 the jet of some is about 74 feet in height. 
 About one half-mile to the north- 
 west of the terrace of the palace, a hand- 
 some villa of one story, in the form 
 of a horse-shoe, was erected by Louis XIV. 
 from plans by Mansart,for Madame de Mainte- 
 non. We found some of the apartments rich- 
 ly furnished and decorated with paintings by 
 Mignard, LeBrun and Boucher. In one room 
 we noticed fine malachite vases — given, we 
 were told, by Alexander I. of Russia to Napo- 
 leon 1— also portraits of Napoleon I, Henri 
 IV, Louis XV. It was in the prin- 
 cipal salon of this villa, that the 
 famous trial of Marshal Bazaine took 
 place in 1873. Our guide brought us 
 next to an adjacent building— the Musee th's 
 Voituren, being a collection of most ponderous, 
 gilt state carriages from the time of the first 
 Emperor up to the baptism of the Prince Im- 
 perial in 1856, Among some very massive 
 
 specimens, is shown a gorgeous carriage of 
 Napoleon I — the one which Marshal Soult 
 brought over to England in 1838, and cut 
 such a figure in at the coronation of the 
 Queen. A little to the north-east of the build" 
 iag, is the Petit Trainon erected by Louia 
 XV fur Madame Du Barry— a miniature of a 
 chateau standing amidst gardens, trees and an 
 artificial lake— these lovely grounds were in 
 the past a favourite resort of Marie Antoinette 
 — the Duchess of Orleans and Marie Louise. 
 What various memories do they not recall, 
 alas ! How many joyful, how many sorrowful 
 thoughts have brooded over this little realm of 
 Fairyland now so silent— so deserted. 
 
 THE LION MOUNT OF THE WATERLOO 
 PLAIN. 
 
 Taking train at the Station du Midi, at 
 Brussels, we soon reached Braine I'AIleud, 
 twelve miles from there— a small village ad- 
 joining that of Waterloo — the hotel omnibus 
 landed us in half an hour, in the heart of the 
 world-famous battlefield, where on a Sunday 
 in June, 1815, was decided the fate of Europe. 
 The Plain of Waterloo, once so profusely 
 soaked with French blood, and formerly 
 visited chiefly by Englishmen, is now daily 
 scanned and studied by Frenchmen since the 
 publication of Victor Hugo's thrilling romance 
 — "Les Miserables," in which it is so masterly 
 described. This vast undulating expanse, 
 clothed in June, 1815, we are told, with 
 waiving, luxuriant harvests of wheat and 
 barley, has much altered in aspect since that 
 period ; you all know the exclamation of the 
 Iron Duke on revisiting the scene of his 
 former triumph with the Prince Regent : 
 "They have changed my battle field," After 
 bolting our bread and cheese, and Mere de Lou- 
 vain — a delightful beverage, we left the Hotel 
 du Mufwe with others, and in a few minutes 
 reached the flight of steps which lead to the 
 summit of the Waterloo Mount, in height 
 one hundred and fifty feet, and half a mile 
 in circumference, crowned by a huge gilt lion 
 conspicuously visible from Braine 1 AUeud, 
 in fact all over the Plain of Waterloo. 
 
 'Tis not my intention to attempt a descrip- 
 tion of the evnr memorable struggle, which on 
 the 18th June, sixty-seven years ago, changed 
 the map of the world by relegating to the 
 rock of St. Helena, the great disturber and 
 enslaver of nations ; the story fills a thousand 
 volumes. Siborne, Major Basil Jackson Hall, 
 Col. Gurwood, Major Beamish on one hand, 
 and from a different stand point. Napoleon 
 Buonaparte, Montholon, Las Cases, O'Meara, 
 Thiers, General Groolman, recently Victor 
 Hugo and fifty others have had their tale to 
 tell ; and still "says Jomini" never was a 
 
 \\ 
 
13 carriage of 
 larahal Hoult 
 138. and cut 
 atioD of the 
 t of the build- 
 ted by Louis 
 miniature of a 
 J, trees and an 
 unds were in 
 rie Antoinette 
 Marie Louise. 
 9y not recall, 
 lany sorrowful 
 little realm of 
 aerted. 
 
 WATERLOO 
 
 t da Midi, at 
 aine I'AUeud, 
 lall village ad' 
 hotel omnibus 
 e heart of the 
 I on a Sunday 
 'ate of Europe. 
 ) so profusely 
 and formerly 
 is now daily 
 I men since the 
 illing romance 
 is so masterly 
 ting expanse, 
 e told, with 
 of wheat and 
 lect since that 
 tmation of the 
 I scene of his 
 nee Regent : 
 field," After 
 1 biere de Lou- 
 hit the Hold 
 \ few minutes 
 zh lead to the 
 it, in height 
 id half a mile 
 huge gilt lion 
 ,ine l^Ueud, 
 erloo. 
 
 ipt a descrip- 
 
 ;gle, which on 
 
 ago, changed 
 
 gating to the 
 
 iisturoer and 
 
 8 a thousand 
 
 ackson Hall, 
 
 I one hand, 
 
 t, Napoleon 
 
 es, O'Meara, 
 
 ently Victor 
 
 their tale to 
 
 never was a 
 
 — 9 — 
 
 battle so confusedly described as that of Wa- 
 terloo. I shall merely ask you to 
 ascend with me to the airy platform 
 around the Belgian Lion, erected in 18.36 on 
 the eminence where the Prince of Orange was 
 wounded and where took place some of the 
 bloodiest carnage on the day of the battle, at 
 the latter end. 
 
 Any one who chooses, may acquire an ac- 
 curate knowledge of the position of the con- 
 tending armies on the field of Waterloo, by 
 consulting the numerous works, photographic 
 views, maps, etc., sold at the Hotel du Muse". ; 
 there is specially one volume to be purchased 
 on the spot, which has more than ordinary 
 guarantees of reliability in its favor ; it is inti- 
 tuled "A Voice from Waterloo," and consists 
 of a careful narrative by an eye-witness of the 
 battle and an actor in the scene, Scrgeant- 
 Major E. Cotton of the 7th Hussars. This 
 brave and intelligent officer, as chief guide 
 to the field of Waterloo, devoted a lifetime, 
 one might say, in collecting and sifting infor- 
 mation afforded by writers as well as distin- 
 guished British and French officers, who had 
 served at Waterloo and returned subsequent- 
 ly to survey and study the ground. Sergeant- 
 Major Cotton lived fourteen years at 
 Mont St. Jean — died there on the 24th June, 
 1849, and was interred in the historic garden 
 of Hougomont, painfully famous as being the 
 spot where 1,500 men wiihin a-half hour were 
 cut down and lie low — equally well remem- 
 bered on account of the heroic bravery dis- 
 played there by British as well as by French 
 troops. 
 
 My friend, Mr. Pilkington, has been kind 
 enough to draw with chalk and mark with 
 red, blue and yellow paper, the Allied 
 and French forces on this board, 'tis a rough 
 sketch from Sergeant-Major Cotton's map of 
 the Field of Waterloo at Sunset on the 18th 
 June, 1815. There lies the slate-covered 
 little church of Braine I'Alleud, where we 
 just left our train from Brussels, to which the 
 highway, a rough road lined with cobble 
 stones, leads. 
 
 There is Hougomont — Hugo-mons for 
 antiquarians, founded some centuries back by 
 Hugo — Sir de Sommeril, once a castle — now 
 a farm-house only — inhabited by a gardener — 
 a descendant of Willem Von Kylsom, who 
 had charge of it in 1815. At that period it 
 was in the possession of a M. de Lunneville — a 
 descendant of Arrazola Deonate, once viceroy 
 of Naples. In 1849 the castle belonged to 
 Count Robiano. 
 
 There is La Haye Sainte, rested at 2 p.m. 
 on that day, from the Allies ; there is the 
 farm of La Belle Alliance, where Welling- 
 ton and Blucher met at the dusk of the even- 
 ing to congratulate one another on their mu- 
 
 have often been 
 )'.rpoKe fif tlie dia- 
 and allied forces 
 'Thi'se,'" says he, 
 
 tual success. Blucher suggested in conse- 
 quence that the battle should be named the 
 battle of La BcUn Alliance— h\Xu Waterloo 
 prevailed for the English — whilst the French 
 called it Le Combat dit Mont St. Jean ; at Mont 
 St. Jean, Wellington, Ir Due de Vilainton, stood 
 for some time in the early part of the fight, and 
 therp, the headquarters of the wounded and 
 hospitals were lo ;ated. I 
 struuk with the lixminoiH 
 position of the French 
 give,:) by Victor lingo, 
 "who wish to form a distiuet idea of the 
 bat.,le of Waterloo, need only imagine a 
 capital A laid on the ground (thus A). The 
 left leg of the A is Nivelles road, the right 
 one, the Genappe road, while the string of 
 the A is the broken way running from Oiiaim 
 to Braiue rAlleud. The top of the A is Mont 
 St. Jean, where Wellington is, the left lower 
 point is Hougomont. where Reille is with 
 Jerome Bonaparte, the right lower point is 
 La Belle Alliance, where Napoleon is ; a 
 little below the point where the string of the 
 A meets and cuts the right leg is La Haye 
 Sainte ; and in the centre of this string is me 
 exact spot where the battle was concluded. 
 
 It is here that the Lion is placed .... 
 
 The triangle comprised at the top of the A 
 between the two legs and the string, is the 
 plateau of Mont St. Jean, the dispute for 
 this plateau was the whole battle. 
 
 Behind the point of the A, behind the 
 plateau of Mont St. Jean, is the forest of 
 Soignies. As for the plan itself, imagine a 
 vast undulating ground ; each ascent com- 
 mands the next ascent and all the undula- 
 tions ascend to Mont St. Jean, where they 
 form the forest." 
 
 The great wcrd-painter, Victor Hugo, des- 
 cribes thus the Hougomont farm, buildings, 
 chapel and historic well : — "The farm build- 
 ings border the court-yard on the south, and a 
 piece of the Northern Gate, broken by the 
 French, hangs from the wall. It consists of 
 four planks nail \ on two cross beams, and the 
 scars of the attack may still be distinguished 
 on it. The Northern Gate, which was broken 
 down by the French, and in which a piece has 
 been let in to replace the panel hanging to the 
 wall, stands half open, at the extremity of the 
 yard; it is cut square in a wall which is stone at 
 the bottom, brick at the top, which closes the 
 yard at the north side. It is a simple gate, 
 such as may be seen in all farm-yards, with two 
 large folding doors made of rustic planks ; 
 beyond it are fields. The dispute for this en- 
 trance was furious ; for a long time all sorts 
 of marks of bloody hands could be seen on 
 the side post of the gate. The storm of the 
 fight still lurks in the court-yard ; horror is 
 visible there : the incidents of the fearful 
 
— 10- 
 
 i \ 
 
 struggle are petrified there ; people are living 
 
 and <lying in it ; it was only yesterday 
 
 Men massacred each other in the chapel, and 
 the interior, which has grown quiet again, is 
 strange. Mass has not been said in it since 
 the carnage, bub the altar has been left, an 
 altar of coarse wood supported by a founda- 
 tion of rough stone. Four white-washed 
 walls, a door opposite the altar, two small 
 arched windows, a lai'ge wooden crucifix, a 
 square air hole stopped up with hay ; in a 
 corner, on the ground, an old window sash 
 with the panes all broken. Such is the chapel. 
 Near the altar is a wooden statue of St. 
 Anne, belonging to the 15th century ; the head 
 of the Infant Saviour has been carried away 
 by a shot. Tlie French, masters for a moment 
 of the chapel, and then dislodged, set fire to it. 
 The fiames filled the building and it became 
 a furnace ; the door burnt, the flooring burnt, 
 but the wooden Christ was not burnt ; the 
 fire nibbled away the feet, of which the 
 blackened stumps can now be seen, and 
 then stopped. It was a miracle, say the 
 
 country people 
 
 On leaving the chp.pel you see a well on 
 your left hand. As there are two wells 
 in this yard you ask yourself why this 
 one has no bucket and windlass ? Because 
 water is no longer drawn from it. Why 
 is it not drawn? Because it is full of 
 skeletons. The last man who drew water 
 from this well was a man called Willem van 
 Kylsom ; he was a peasant who lived at 
 Hougomont, and was gardener there. On 
 June 18th, 1815, his family took flight and 
 concealed themselves in the woods. The 
 forest rouna the Abbey of Villers sheltered 
 for several days and nights the dispersed, 
 luckless country people. Even at the present 
 day certain vestiges, such as old burnt trunks 
 of trees mark the spot of these poor encamp- 
 ments among the thickets. Willem van 
 Kylsom remained at Hougomont 'to take care 
 of the chateau' and concealed himself in a 
 eellar. The English discovered him there ; 
 he was dragged from his lurking place, and 
 the frightened man was forced by blows with 
 the flat of a sabre to wait on the combatants. 
 They were thirsty and this Willem brought 
 them drink, and it was from this well he drew 
 the water. Many drank there for the last 
 time, and this well, from which so many dead 
 men drank, was destined to die, too. After 
 the action the corpses were hastily interred ; 
 death has a way of its own of harassing vic- 
 tory, and it causes pestilence to follow glory. 
 Typhus is an annexe of triumph. This well 
 was deep and was converted into a tomb. 
 Three hundred dead were thrown into it, 
 perhaps with too much haste. Were they 
 all dead? the legend says no ; and it seems 
 
 that on the night following the burial, weak 
 voices were heard calling from the well." 
 
 It was on the 15th August that I visited 
 the Plain of Waterloo, the fields were then 
 shorn of their harvest. The battle of Water- 
 loo, as you all know, was fought on a Sunday, 
 — the 18th June, 1815 ; the night previous a 
 drenching storm had rendered the roads and 
 plain impassable for heavy artillery trains. 
 Napoleon was above all an artillerist, and he 
 had then to wait until the sun had hardened 
 the mud aud soaked up the rain pools, the 
 first gun was fired at twenty-five minutes to 
 12 noon. At the beginning o^ the cam- 
 paign, it is stated that the Duke of 
 Wellington's allied army was compos- 
 ed of about 105,000 men, of which 
 35 000 were British, with 196 guns— the 
 Prussian army consisted of 115,000 soldiers, 
 artillery : 312 guns, whilst Napoleon on re- 
 joining his army at Avesnes, on the 13th June, 
 reckoned his force at 122,400 men and 350 
 guns. The combattants in the field on the 
 18th June, numbered less ; the allied 
 (English, Belgian, &c.,) army is quot- 
 ed at 67,661 men and 156 guns, 
 and late in the afternoon the Prussians arriv- 
 ed mustering 51,944 men and 104 guns. 
 
 The French force is given as 71,947 men 
 and 246 guns ; the first detachment of Prus- 
 pians some 15,904 men and 44 guns arrived 
 on the field at 4.45 p. m., the second corps, 
 13,336 and 36 guns, made their appearance at 
 5.45 p.m., and the third detachment number- 
 ing 22,700 and 24 guns, came up at 7.45 p. m. 
 The engagement seems to have lasted from 
 11, .35 a. m. to 8.15 p. m., eight hours and 
 a-half, so that the whole brunt of the fight 
 from 11.35 a. m. to 4.45 p. m, fell to the 
 Duke's army, until the arrival of the Prus- 
 sians. 
 
 And Ardennes waves above them her green 
 
 leaves. 
 Dewy with nature's tear-drops, as they pass 
 Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves, 
 Over the unreturning braves — alas ! 
 Ere evening to be trodden like the grass 
 Which now beneath them, but above shall 
 
 grow 
 In its next verdure, where this fiery mass 
 Of living valour, rolling on the foe 
 And burning with high hope, shall moulder 
 
 cold and low. 
 
 Ladies and gentlemen, I think by this time, 
 I must have wearied your patience, I find I 
 have been doing more than merely taking a 
 walk with you from the Hotel du Muaee, to 
 the lofty platform, round the Gilt Lion, and 
 before we close, allow me to point out 
 to you, among the actors on this famous 
 plain of Waterloo, many proud names familiar, 
 
 tter on 
 rand 
 irhen w 
 ised to 
 'lainso 
 I Richi 
 jord Jo 
 ionnox, 
 ctively 
 
 I! I 
 
-11 — 
 
 le burial, weak 
 the well." 
 hat I visited 
 lids were then 
 ittle of Water- 
 it on a Sunday, 
 ight prev'iouB a 
 [ the roads and 
 tillery trains. 
 ;illerist, and he 
 
 had hardened 
 
 ain pools, the 
 
 ve minutes to 
 
 o* the cam- 
 
 tho Duke of 
 
 was compos- 
 m, of which 
 96 guns — the 
 5,000 soldiers, 
 ipoleon on re- 
 
 the 13th June, 
 men and 350 
 
 field on the 
 ; the allied 
 rmy is quot- 
 156 guns, 
 'russians arriv- 
 nd 104 guns. 
 
 as 71,947 men 
 
 iment of Prus- 
 
 guns arrived 
 
 second corps, 
 
 appearance at 
 
 ment number- 
 p at 7.45 p. m. 
 ve lasted from 
 ight hours and 
 nt of the fight 
 
 m. fell to the 
 of the Prus- 
 
 em her green 
 
 as they pass 
 r grieves, 
 las ! 
 
 le grass 
 t above shall 
 
 iery mass 
 
 oe 
 
 shall moulder 
 
 by this time, 
 ence, I find I 
 'ely taking a 
 du Muaee, to 
 It Lion, and 
 10 point out 
 
 this famous 
 ,mea familiar. 
 
 &ter on, to Quebec ears, and who at those 
 [rand military parades, in those festive times 
 rhen we had a large garrison, our fathers 
 ised to meet and admire on our own historic 
 'lainsof Abraham, such as His Qrace the Duke 
 )f Richmond and hiathree sons, Lord Charles, 
 jord John George and Lord William Pitt 
 ^nnox, denizens of Quebec in 1818-9, all 
 ictively serving at Waterloo ; Sir James 
 
 Kempt, one of our Governors-General, Sir 
 John Colborne (Lord Seaton) our administra- 
 tor. Sir James McDonnell, one of the heroes 
 of Ho'ugoumont, Commander of our Garrison 
 in 1838. They were all Waterloo men, with 
 exception of the Duke of Richmond, who, 
 though present on the field of Waterloo, 
 came there as a non-combattant. {Repeated 
 apptauHe. )