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New Yo'h 14609 U5A S^ ''e) 482 - 0300 - Phone ^S '"'6) 288- 5989 -Fax M/i o THE PEACE RIVER DISTRICT CANADA ITS RESOURCES and OPPORTUIIITIESt B8l:0.H-Q..t •^■■ii'iN^lB c:: ir.NMtNl nyeLXATIONS COIU'.T/JN CCS rUBV'AII.NS DU GOUVUNIMtNT mMmi 4 ) Department of the Interior Cmada Hon. Artintr Mdsbm W. W. Cory :.M.O. DqpBly M «w Ncearal l^itEffigpice W fnf^ ->tfig«teSJr^ -T THE PEACE RIVER DISTRICT CANADA ITS RESOURCES AND OPPORTUNITIES By F. H. KITTO. D.L.S.. A.M. CAN. SOC. C.E. Prepared under the direction of the Superintendent Natural Resources Intelligence Branch In the preparation of this report valuable assistence has been re- ceived from officials of the Federal Departments. Mr. Charles Camsell of the Geo- logical Survey of Canada and Mr. C. H. Attwood of the Domin- ion Water Power Branch have prepared the chapter* dealing with Mineral Deposits and Water Powers respectively. The Director of Experimental Farms, The Director of Fores- try and the Commissioner of Dominion Perks have revised those portions of the report relating to their work. The assistance rendered by these and other authorities is gratefully acknowledged. 37796—11 «partment of the Interior Canada Hon. Arthur Meif .en W. W. Cory, C.M.G. Minister Deputy Minister 1918 I'" * ' t CONTENTS The 'Vart- Rixir Dixtritt. The IVair Kivrr ( linute Soil Timber Minorul l><'|>rMi(ii. Kiir Fish ami ' ..urn-.,.. \Vat(T[»)Wtr!t..,. rrans|K)rtati(in. <'(iinmuni(ati>n . Kilucation ami S<,< ial Life. . . The Hrilish Columhia Sfttiuii The ( in at Agricultural Section*. llixh Prairie McLennan Peari- River Duiuegan Spirit River Grande Prairie Pouce C()U|)«' Fort St. John Hudson Hope F'ort Vermilion Publications and Information .Available. 7 U 12 I J 14 17 \H IS 1',) 21 22 23 25 27 29 .10 at 32 34 m M 37 ■M 4)> ILLUSTRATIONS. Children of Sheridan Lawrence in their garden at Fort Wrm lion Front Oat held on Grande Prairie Young cattle on summer range at Saskatiwn Lake Brome grass at Fort Vermilion Elevators at town of Grande Prairie Park lands of Peace River District Flower garden on Experimental Farm, Fort \ermilioM.. Vegetables grown in Peace River Valley S. S. " D. A. Thomas " at Peace River Sketch of Keg River district _ Sketch of Hay Lakes district ispiece 13 13 28 28 33 33 38 3s 4C 4o MAP. Map shon iitg Peace River Drainage Basin, Scale 35 miles to 1 inch Inside Back Cover. THE PEACE RIVER DISTRICT The Peace River District of Canada has been for many years the subject of much interest and speculation. Alluring tales from adventurous pioneers of its wonderful resources, its charming climate and varying scenery, had long since lent to the district that charm of romance which distance and lyicertainty blend with glowing promises. Now the land so long famed by legend and mystery is being proved a reality. Modern transportation has brought the district to our doors, and our keen searching trials and tests are proving it to be all and more than it was represented to be. The tales were not myths; the truth was not half told, and every day added treasures of the district are being unfolded to our eyes. This district, the drainage basin of the Peace river, lies in the northern parts of the provinces of .Alberta and British Columbia. It extends approxi- mately from latitude Si° to 59° north and from longitude 112° to 125° east, and is a part of the great Mackenzie River drainage basin. Falling away from the Rocky mountains, it embraces a part of their eastern slope, and sweeps east- ward and northward over a huge plateau exti'nding to Lake Athabaska and the Athabaska and Slave rivers. The area of the Peace River drainage basin is over one hundred and fifteen thousand scjuare miles, as shown in the following table: - TAliLli of .Xrcas — I'caco Rivtr Di.strict. Province. Squ.irc MilL>; .Xcris j (.\i)|)rox..i i (Approx.) .Xlhcrta liritish Cohiinlii.i. . . Total . 66,. W! 42,492,800 49,307| 31,394,880 11.5,762^ 74,087.680 Of till ^•ast area, the greater part falling within the province of Alberta, especially the territory lying inimediat* ly to cither side of Peace river, is proving suitable agricultural land, either for mixed farming or ranching. To this must be added a block of three and a half million acres known as " The Peace River Block," lying within the province of British Columbia and adjacent to Alberta. The balance of the British Columbia area, while containing much valuable agricultural land in various valleys, is principally a mountainous region. With those portions of the Alberta area lying at the headwaters of the various tribu- taries of the main riviT it forms a vast area of miner.il and timber resourci's, the extent of which is only beginning to be realized 8 The Peace River District. The Peace River The Peace river itself, beautiful and majestic, has its origin in these eastern slopes of the Rockies of northern British Columbia. It flows through mountain canyons and broad prairies for some eight hundred miles till its waters are joined by those of the mighty Athabaska, to sweep northward to Great Slave lake. This huge lake, a veritable inland ocean, feeds the Great Mackenzie river, which flows northward a thousand miles and drains an area of over half a million square miles. Two large mountain rivers, the Finlay and the Parsnip, the one flowing southerly, the other northerly, unite their waters at Finlay Forks at the foot of mount Selwyn, towering 3,000 feet above them, and the larger river thus formed by their confluence is known as the " Peace." From this inspiring source, with an initial width of 300 feet, the Peace runs in an easterly direction through the mountains and fcothills to burst forth at Hudson Hope, on the upper limit of the Peace River block, into the vast plateaus it drains. Below Hudson Hope it widens out and flows with a uniform current through a valley cut deep across the surrounding plains. Fort St. John, British Columbia, is on its left limit in the Peace River block. Dunvcgan is also on its left bank, in Alberta, and here is located a ferry where the old wagon road from Edmonton crossed to continue to lake Saskatoon. Finlay Forks, Hudson Hope, Fort St. John, and Dunvegan are still practically trading posts, but little changed from early days. But sixty miles farther down stream, the "Id "Peace River Landing," or " Peace River Crossing," has given way to the new ihrivinp, town of Peace River, now linked with steel to Edmonton and the " outside." This point on the river was formerly reached from Edmonton by a two or three weeks' trying stage journey over a trail that spelt discomfort and hardship at every turn, whereas now one can travel by rail with all the comforts of dining and sleeping cars in twenty-six hours over practically the same route. From here modern steamboats ply up and down the river, a ferry crosses it, and a giant steel bridge is now being built to span it, to allow the rails to push farther west and north. From " The Crossing," as this town is locally known, the river's course is almost due north some two hundred and fifty miles to the old historic trading post of Fort Vermilion, where another ferry has recently been provided; thence easterly again to the rapids and falls of X^ermilion chutes. Navigation is here interrupted again. Below the chutes the river winds northeasterly till it is joined near the northwest end of lake Athabaska by the waters of this lake and the Athabaska river. From the confluence of these great waters the large river formed takes a new name, the " Slave," and the Peace loses its identi / in the union. The Slave flows northerly to Slave lake, broken once by a series of rapids from Fitzgerald to Fort Smith, on the northerly boundary of Alberta. It will be seen that the Peace is divided into three ^reat sections. Above Hudson Hope it is navigable fiom the head of Rocky Mountain Canyon to Tinlay P'orks. Navigation also extends ninety miles additional up the Finlay The Peace River. 9 and some distance up the Parsnip. From Hudson Hope to Wrmilion chutes large steamers ply regularly during the open season. Below the chutes the river is navigable to its mouth, from where navigation extends down the Slave as far as F"itzgL'rald, also on lake Athahaska and up the Athabaska river as far as Fort McMurray. As shown in the following table, the Peace itself is some eight hundred miles in length. It varies in width from three hundred feet at its head to a mile and a half at the chutes. T.\BLE of IJistancca'— I'eaif Kivrr. Section* P'rum 1 [lead (Finlay Forks) 2 Hudson Hope 3 iFort St. John. 4 jB.C.-AlbertaHoundaryfPunvcKan. 5 jDunvegan 6 :I'eace River (Crossing) 7 'Mouth of Notikewin. . 8 jCarcajou Fdint 9 iFort Wrmilion 10 'Vermilion Chutes Hudson Hope Fort St. John B.C.-.Mberta Houndarv^ Peace River (Cro..sint; .Mouth of Notikewin (Battle Riven Carcajou Point Fort Vermilion Vermilion Chutes . . .Mouth (Slave River) . Total.... .Miles (.\pprox.: 83 51 34 83 61 % 59 93 SO 188 798 •Topographical Surveys Branch. Dept. Interior, Ottawa. Climate The clinvatc of tiie Peace River District is excellent, ami remarkably moder" ate considering the latitude. The air is pure and bracing: in winter clear and crisp, and in summer dry and balmy. Extremes of temperature, sudden changes, and severe storms are very rare. The winters are by no means mild, but are very dry, with clear skies, little snowfall, and few wiiitls. Blizzards are unknown, but the mild Chinook winds occasionally s^eep through the mountain passes from the warm Pacific, giving pleasing respites of balmy days o break the monotony of a steady cold. Spring comes early and nuickly; the snow soon disappears, and the ground is dry in a few days. Ice on the lakes and rivers breaks up during the latter part of April or early in May. Seeding usually begins early in April, sometimes in March, and at Fort Vermilion about the first of May. Most of the rainfall occurs in June and July. The average precipitation lor the full year is about twelve or thirteen inches. The summers are remarkable for their long days and short nights. For three months there is almost continual light, the nights being merely a couple of hours semi-darkness, except when the sky is overcast. The days are 37796—2 10 The Peace River District. warm, but the heat is not sultry or murky. The nights are cool and conducive to rest. Summer frosts, hail-storms, or fierce winds are very rare. These are the growing days when vegetation makes its remarkable progress to compensate for a short season. The long, cool evenings are especially pleasing after the day's heat. Harvest commences alwut the middle of August. September is an es- pecially pleasant month. The days are still warm, but the nights grow colder and the flies disappear. Life in the woods is at its best during this month. October brings heavier frosts, and the ice forms late in this month or early in November. Winter can usually be expected early in November, though mild weather until Christmas is not uncommon. The rigours of the climate need not be feared, but houses should be sub- stantially built to withstand the cold spells. Warmly clad, a person enjoys the out-of-door life at any time during the winter. Taken the year round, the climate is healthy and pleasant, and conducive to active and vigorous outdoor life. The following tables, taken from oiificial meteorological records, gi' • some interesting information obtained at diflfcrent points throughout the district:— 1 ABLE of Meteorological Records'— Fort Vermilion. im-j-is. -Month. Teni|)erature April May June July .August September October November 23-5 December — 0-4 January ! -'^ February 15-7 March 33-2 Total., Precipitation. cS ^ s 08 16 1 66 74 80 1 79 •25 800 0-50 2-50 ' 3-50 , 800 1 2^0 08 16 0-66 1-74 1-80 0-79 0-25 0-80 0.S 0-2.S 0-3S 80 7-73 *MeteoroloKical Service of Canatja. Climate. Table of Mctcorotbgical Records* — Fort Vermilion and Grande Prairie. 11 M..i.lh. 1916 Fort N'ermilion. (irande I'rairie ! 1 Average Tempera- ture. Precipit- ation in inches. .Average ] Tempera- j ture. j Precipit- ation in inches. January | . . -20° I 040 February I - 1 , 0.5 March i 2 100 April it 009 \lay 48 i d-.MI June 59 i 2 05 July 58 i 4-04 August I 54 [ 0-42 September j 46 j 1-56 October I .12 I 0-98 November i 11 '< 0-28 December - 15 0-80 Totiil I 12-25 -15° 1-20 16 0-30 17 1-2.? 40 l-.M 48 0-22 57 0-41 56 ,r98 56 0-47 49 0-52 41 0-56 26 0-20 6 ISO Total., 11-90 *M«te*r«logical Sen-ice of Canada. Table of Meteorological Records* — Sunshine at Fort Vermilion. 1915-16 Months. No. April May June July August. . . . September. October. . . November. December . January. . . February. . March ... 'Meteorological Service of Canada. 3779*— 2i ). of (lavs No. of davs Total .\verage with without hours sunshine unshinc. sunshine. -junshinc. per day. 28 2 222-9 7-43 25 6 2540 8-19 30 357-2 11-90 28 3 326-7 10-53 28 3 305-0 9-83 27 3 173-0 5-76 20 11 97-S 3-14 22 8 89-7 2-99 17 14 60-5 1-95 20 11 83-4 2-69 27 2 161-2 5-55 23 8 156-5 5-04 12 The Peace River District. Soil The soil of till' uroattT part of the district is especially suitable to the grow- ing of grains, grasses, and vegetables. The valleys of the up[)er sections are ver\ rich in river silt and black and sandy clay loams. Clay, .sandy clay, and black loam, with a subsoil of the same, are the prevailing soils of the entire district. Occasional sand ridges, usually covered with jack pine, are found, but thes»- comprise a very small percentage of the area. Some good land is covep.'d with light muskeg or is marshy, but much of this can be easily drained. The usual run of .soil is free from alkali, and well adapted to growing wheat. The district, generally .^peaking, is level or slightly rolling. Very little gravelly land occurs, and tield stones and small boulders are found only in restricted areas, and even there in small numbers. Generally speaking, the entire district is exceedingly fertile, the percentage of barren land being practically nothing. The district is well watered by numerous rivers and streams of pure water. Where homesteads have no stream, goinl water is obtained by digging or boring wells. The Fort Vermilion district is especially favoured in this respect, water being found at depths from 18 to 40 feet. In other districts it is sometimes necessary to go as deep as 60 feet, but failure to get water at this l 3-50 5-7() 0()0 USl 0-20 0+4 None. Timber Much has been written about the vast prairies and lightly wooded sections of the Peace River District. While these are extensive, the greater portion of the district, t.ik^ng into account the mountain slopes and deep valleys of its outer bound, is thickly wooded with valuable timber. The principal varieties include fir in the mountains, snruce, pine, tamarack, birch, poplar, cottonwood, I'liotu. l.v I. il. Kmo. I> I. S. Oat I'iild on Cirandc IVairic. ii.':M. \ oung Cattle on Summer Range at Saskatoon Lake. Photo, by K. II. KiTTO, D.l.S. 14 The Peace River District. and willow. The upper reaches of the district, including the mountains and foothills, are especially well wooded, but timber of good dimension is found in all tl*e valleys throughout the entire district. Many large islands occur at intervals along the Peare, and these are all thickly wooded with fine straight spruce. Valuable timber limits on the Waoiti are yet untouched. The North and South Pine rivers, the Smoky, the VVhitemud, and the Notikewin (Battle) are well wooded; while farther east and north the VVabiskaw contains millions of feet of untouched timber. At Fort Vermilion there are tliree saw-mills, with planing and shingle machines, and all building material required there is cut and manufactured locally. Peace River is well supplied with mills, and others are being installed throughout the district as required. With the continued settlement and opening up of the district, the lumbering industry will assume greater proportions. While the hard woods and more valuable specimens of softer woods are not generally found, the wealth of the forests is still very great. Spruce is extensively used for lumber. Other woods yield logs for building, fencing material, ties, mine timbers, and fuel. Much pulpwood is available. Extensive forests of beautiful white poplar also exist. Except on the open prairies, a sufficient supply of timber is found to meet all the requirements of the settler for many yars. Mineral Deposits* •By Charles Camsell, B. Sc. Geological Survey of Canada. Prospecting for mineral deposits in the basin of Peace river has nowhere been of an intensive character, and by far the greater portion of the basin has never been visited by the prospector. Both metallic and non-metallic deposits are, however, known to occur in considerable quantities, the former in the region west of the Rocky mountains, namely, in the basins of F"inlay and Omineca rivers, and the latter in the eastern slope of the Rockies and the region to the east of them. The great rush of placer miners into the Caribou gold fields in 1860 led to the discovery of gold on the Parsnip river in 1861, and in the following year on the Finlay. Soon after this the famous Omineca fields were discovered, which, in their history, have yielded about one million dollars' worth of gold. The ^.asy rich diggings of this field were, however, exhausted in a few years, and the miners gradually pushed their way down stream, working bars on the Peace and its tributaries wherever they found pay rich enough to stand the high cost of mining. Bars were worked as far down as Hudson Hope and even to the mouth of Battle river, but the gold was found to become finer as distance from the mountains increased. Very fine gold has been carried as far down stream as Fort Vermilion, but the difficulty of iccovering this is too great to make it worth while mining. Placer mining is still being carried on in the ^fineral Deposits. 15 upptr waters of the Peace river, but the total production is comparatively small, and until transportation is provided that will allow the large-scale ofwra- tions of dredging or hydraulicking to he carried on, a larger yield is not to Ik- expectctl. Cold quartz veins occur at mount Selwyn and on Omineca river, and large veins of silver-bearing galena have lieen known for many years near Manson. No actual lode mining has. however, yet Ix-en undertaken. Seams of coal are exposed in Rocky Mountain Canyon above HucNdh Hoik-, and, though onlv two to three fee- in thickness, arc of excellent quality and higher grade than most of the Western Canadian coals. C^oal measures also outcrop to the south on Pine river, and on the headwaters of Smoky river, and contain coals which have been classed as bituminous and, in one or two of the seams, as anthracite. The possible area of these fields, therefore, is large, and the quality of the coals indicate that this is one of the most important coal fields of Western Canada. Lower grade coal has been found lower down Peace river at the town of Peace River and on Red Willow river. Springs of natural gas and tar rising to the surface at several points in the valley of Peace river suggest that reservoirs of both these substances exist at depth in the rocks below. Drilling has been undertaken at two or three points to tap these reservoirs, and in a well near Peace river a he.vy Hfjw of gas was struck, at a little over 1,000 feet in depth. Some heavy oil was also obtained which, by pumping, would amount to a few barrels daily. Beds of gypsum, ten to fifty feet in thickness, are exposed on both banks of Peace river near Peace point for a distance of IS miles, and it has been estimated that there are over 217,000,000 tons of this material adjacent to the river, much of it very favourably situated for mining. Salt is associated with the gypsum in the countrv north of Peace point, and some hopes have been entertained for the finding of potash in association with the salt and gypsum, as it is in certain parts of the world. While all the mineral deposits of the Peace River District are still in an undeveloped state, it has been fairly satisfactorily proved th^t there is a large amount of coal, gas, and gypsum, and the settlers of that district can be assured of an adequate supply of coal and gas for fuel and power, and of gypsum for building purposes, as soon as there is sufficient demand to warrant the develop- ment of these deposits. Two samples of coal from near Hudson Hope, and a sample of crude oil from the McArthur well near Peace river, were submitted to the Director of the Mines Branch, Department of Mines, for examination. The reports of analyses made by the Chief Engineering Chemist of the Division of Fuels and Fuel Test- ing of this branch are shown following: — 16 The Peace River District. I, REPOKT OF ANM.YSIS. ()TT\w\, |. Hillary 7. 1918. Samples i)( I t«lri)IUcH{ IVaiv Kivir. lu.ir lludiwm Hope, H.C Samplf mark — Laboratory sample iuinil>tr Moisture roiulitiim of »aiiiplc (»n-\olatile main r. Coking prii(«rties " liethinKH " 1212 K. I) Ih 2 ,< (t 2,"i 1 25 5 70 4 71-5 2X0 2 SO Foriiif fair coke. "C. irlxm " 1 'H H. 1) 1-5 2 1 2 1 20-5 20 K 75 O 771 .i ■ 70 .1 70 Harely .iisKloineMte- Kemarks: — ■ 1212 From ( 'icthinna creek. 1213 - From Carbon river. Note.— Figures in rolumn " R " refer to fuel .i- received. a..cl in loluniu " I) " to fuel ciried at 105° (". The analyses were made on the fuel .is received, and other results calculated therefrom. I-;, ^[ANSFiF.Ln, Chiff hiini'ieeriiin tnemisl II RKPOKr OF .WAI.VSIS OrnwA, January .<, I'>l.>* 1218— Cnicte Petroleum -sample taken 14 miles belov. town of Peace River, SO feet from erige of cut bank. Received DccemlKr 3, 1917. The sample was a black, very viscou- oil, with an orrilory, and have (K.sts scattere.l through- out the district; while, more recently, other fur-buying concerns have been attracud to the field and their |K)sts have sprung up in various places. Th<- l.utTalo of early days provided both n and robes, and there still roam- the northern parts of this district a small band of wckkI buflalo, survivors i the majestic herds of yore. Mcxise, deer, and bear are now ihe larger animals hunted, while smaller fur-bearing animals pro the Indian opinion. Manv white nen also engage solely in trapping. Besides these regular trap- pers, great numbers of settlers f\nd in their spare time during the winter that they can derive considerable revenue from this source, and the lu .iiesteader's boy attains ready pocket money and endless adventure from his own enterprise in this line. An indication of the variety and quantity of fur taken will lie obtained from the following table, which shows one season's catch in one small district: Report of the Kur Season in the Fort St. John District, British ColuinbU. Season l'>16-17* •Chtef Game Warden, Vancouver, B.C. 3779fi— 3 18 The Peace River District. Fiah and Oame While the «listrict alHiuiuU in fur-U-arinu animals, it is not «> la\i>hlv pritvided with fish. The mountain utreams, howeM-r, contain trout. MolH-rly lake, though small, i« well stocked with whitefish, as is alsti Sturgeon like. Peace river prwiuccs a few fish, chiefly ling and gold eyes. The Carilxiu lakes, north of Fort Vermilion, teem with large trout and whitcfish, and will yield enormous quantities. As yet these lakes are difficult of access. The Wabiskaw and Peerless lakes are also well stocked, but lie in a district remote from »«'ttle- ment. In feathered game, wild ducks, gi-ese, swans, and wavies are plentiful. These are esi)ecially abundant on the Hay lakes northwest of Fort Vermilion, and on the lowe. Peace and Athabaska. In the fall of the year they gather in flocks of thousands, and the Indians kill great numbers and hang them up to freeze for winter use. Prairie chickens and partridges are found throughout the district, but are not numerous and are being protected by the provincial Govemr-^nts. Moose and woodland caribou are fairly plentiful, but other deer are rarely seen. Wolves, bears, coyotes, and foxes afford exciting chase for the sports- man and an opportunity at the same time to rid the settlers' farmyards of invaders. Water-powen* Many misleading statements have been published relating to the vast amount oi power available on the Peace river. This river, from the canyon in British Columbia to Vermilion chutes in Alberta, a distance of approximately 500 miles, i» a wide swift river flowing over a sand or gravel bed, generally shallow, and through a deep valley, with gently sloping sides. The river is a mountain stream, as are many of its tributaries, and as a result the flow is very irregular, varying as much as 50 to 1 between high and low water, with the floods occurring during the summer months and the low flow during the winter. On the Peace river there are two possible power sites: one in the headwaters at the canyon, and the other at Vermilion chutes. '■"he canyon site has not yet been investigated by the department's power engineers, and while the total fall through the canyon, which is about 18 miles in length, is reported to be between 225 and 275 feet, it is not known how much of the total head can be developed. In any event, a power development at this site will be an expensive undertaking, and can only be accomplished when a market for the power is available close at hand. The Vermilion chutes site has been surveyed and Investigated by the department's power engineers. The river at this sit^ averages one mile in width, and takes a drop of 30 feet in a distance of 2 miles. The fall is con- centrated chiefly at two points; the first or upper fall being in the form of a *D>U (or the wction on water-power were prepared by C. H. Attwood . Chief Engineer in charge of the AlberU and Setkatchewan power «urvey». ihe Dominion Water Power Branch T runs portnt ion. 19 rapid, half a mile in length, with a total drop of 11 Ictt. Thi- s«con(! dnip \* situatoft one ami a half milen below the rapid, and is an abrupt drop of 1? ft« t over a limestone ledge, and is commonly called the " ihutes." At the '■ chutes " lx)th river banks are low. anil an effe i i\trs have their sources in the mountains ami foothills and arc fed by the m.ltiiiK snows in the moun- tains during the summer months and have only .i small run-off during the winter. The Moln-rly. Pouce Coup/-, and Bear creek, together with the tribu- taries Ih'Iow Pea(.' River Crossing, d.pend upon the precipitation, are subject to floods during the spring and summer months, and have a very small »low during the winter. Further investigations may. however, reveal the possibility of storing and conserving the flood waters on many of these streams. In such an event, these streams will be capable of prtxlucing sutiicient power to operate small mills, and in some cases supply the power demands of a small municipality. The inherent disadvantages of the Peace river and its tributaries as a source of power at the present time arc: • 1. The irregularity of flow. 2. High cost of development. 3. Absence of market. These disadvantages may. however, be overcome by: — 1. The creation of storage reservoirs to regulate the flow. 2. By settlement in the district. As ;he district becomes thickly populated and towns spring up t'. sportation f.iciiities will be greatly improved and a market crer.ted for t.-.j power. Transportation The Peace River District may now be reached in comfort and despatch by modern means of travel, being connected by rail with Edmonton, the capital of Alberta. Peace River, Spirit Rivfr, and Gra ide Prairie are served by the railway and further construction is in progress. In addition, those districts adjacent to tl;e river have the benefit of a steamboat service during the months of navigation. The Edmonton, Dunvegan and British Columbia railway runs northerly from Edmonton to Smith, the first divisional point, where the Athabaska river is crossed. Swinging westerly, it follows the Lesser Slave river and skirts the southern shore of Lesser Slave lake, famous for its yields of whitefish. High Prairie is on the line of steel at the westerly end of this lake, and marks the approximate divide between the Athabaska and Peace watersheds. 37796-JJ 20 The Peace River Distrirt. The railway thin riiiis more northerly to the next division, il point, Mcl.ennan" From Mcl-ennan the Central Canada railway rnns northerly to Peace river' reaching the edgi' of the valley at a point overlooking the junction of the Peace and Smoky rivers and affording the tr,ivellears. At present a train service is maintained on all these lines, from Edmonton and return, twice a week. Traffic is already becoming so heavy that a daily train service is probably not far distant. Stockyards iiid elevators are in evidence, and an efficient freight serNice is maintained. Distances are shown on the following table: - Iaiilic uf U.iilw.is Di^t.iniis. K ' ( )ttiu r< ' Athaliawa ". ' Norllil,inlcaniiT. Capacity I piiration. Iraiispdrl Drp.irt-j .'50 p.issiiiKcr-. .UMl Ion, I mini. [ t'ri-inlii. iHnil-iinV Hay ( iinip,in\. ■Stern wlnil -i.MMiir. iPcaic Kiver Navi^.tiiDnCo.. Ltd jSiitm wlucl siiMim r. Poacr River Oevilopmitit I'or 'Twin Screw gasoline l.iuiK h. poralion -Transpnrl l)ep.irt- j nient. iPeai e Kiver N.ivin.itinii ( .1.. Ltd iMiIine river H().it. Highways are being rapidly construclod and improved. Bridges have been pnjvidcd for smaller rivers, and ferries for the Peace at Dunvegan, Peace River, and F"ort Vermilion. Auto liveries ply regularly between Peaci' River, Dunvegan and Spirit River, alsti between Spirit River, Cirande Prairie, and Saskatoon lake and Spirit River anti Pouce Coupe. These roads and trails, being chiefly on the prairies, are easily made and kept in good condition. Communication Ry the construction of a telegraph line from Kdmonton to Peace River the Dominion (iovernment has overcome that dread of isolation which kept many a prospective settler from entering this district at an earlier dges have been discovered whir' could be milled profit- ably, if machinery could be more easily taken in. " ...• district is known to be highly mineralized, and the field is an excell. .. one for the prospector. The coal fields above Hudson Hope are believed to be very extensive, and the quality is high grade. Timber is also plentiful, and much water-power is available. Pish and game are abundant. The scenery is magnificent, and the summer seasons very delightful. The district is rich in fur, and many prospectors scattered through- out its remote corners are combining trapping with their quest for minerals. Their trnps yield them a livelihood until they have located paying claims. With the coming of the steel, and the opening of coal and other mines, this district will develop very rapidly. To those not afraid to face a few years of pioneer work will come the opportunities which await the man on the ground, when the great movement sets in. The following are tables of distances of present routes:— Table of Distances. Rail and River. Edmonton to Hudson Hope. From. To. M lies (.\pprox. I Means of Travel. Edmonton | Peace River. . j ill :Rail. Peace Rim.i jlludson Hope ! 229 |S tejmboat. Total I i 5^"' Zl_^ VWST^SrTfmU The Great Agricultural Sectio)i>- Table oi Dislanres, (Canoe Routt). Fort (JeorRe to HudMiii Hojk. Kduti Fort ficorKC to (.isnunc \i.i I'rasrr riM r. Giscome portage Summit laki- . , ,, , , , , Summit lake to Kort McLochI via ( nxikiil river anil Mi l.eixl lake Fort MrLeixJ to 1-iiilav Junction via I'arsiiip river Finlay Junction to Rocky Mountain I'lirtaije via I'l ;iir river Rocky Mountain Portage to HudMin Hope Total 25 Miles (Approx. ) 4.! s 4 ()5 115 74 14 Ml Taulk ol iJi-laui e«. K.iil. Irom. Kdmonton Prince Ru|KTt. To. Roiiti iFort f.eorgi (Grand Trunk Pacific Miles. 48b 409 The Great Agricultural Sections. The Crown lands and natural n-sources of the Peace River District included within the boundaries of i>c province of Alberta and the Peace River Block of British Columbia are the property of the Gc\ernment of Canada. They are controlled by the various branches of the Department of the Interior at Ottawa. To expedite transaction of official business, this vast district has been divided into land districts, and provided witii local offices. Government agents are stationed at these offices to give immediate attention to the disposal of Dominion lands, the control of Crown timber, ami the recording of mineral claims. The Peace River Lantl District extends from the Fifth principal meridian westerly to the British Columbia boundary. Its southern boundary follows the line between townships 84 and 85 across ranges 1 to 3, between townships 68 and 69 across ranges 4 to 20, and between townships 73 a .d 74 across ranges 21 to 26 west of the Fifth meridian. West of the Sixth meridian its southern boundary is the Peace River. Its northeri boundary extends to the northerly limit of the province of Alberta. This district also includes that part of the Peace River 26 The Peace River District. HUkIv lying north of the river. The agency is located in the town of Peaie River with sub-agencies at Fort St. John and North Vermilion. Grande Prairie Land District includes townships 61 to 73, inclusive, from ranges 21 west of the P'ifth meridian to tlie Sixth meridian. From the Sixth meridian it extends westerly to the British Columbia boundary, and northerly from township 61 to the Peace river. It also includes that part lying south of Peace river of the Peace River Block. The agency is located in the town of Grande Prairie, with sub-agencies at Spirit River and Pouce Coupe The tide of settlement to these districts has set in practically within the last ten years. Prior to that only a few scattered pioneers could be found about the various trading posts. The attractions of the district, hov/ever, and the unbounded faith of its pioneers gradually drew the attention of the outside world, and home seekers began to make their way in over the long trying trail from Edmonton. Undaunted by such hardships, tliey blazed the way for others to follow and pressed forward to secure the choicest locations. Surveyors were rushed into the district to lay out the lands, and before the outbreak of the Great War, various localities i particular attraction had become thriving centres of settlement. Even since the outbreak of war the rush of settlement has continued. Immigration from Europe having been suspended, the district is receiving its new-comers almost entirely from older-settled parts of Canada and various States of the adjoining Republic. Many returned soldiers are now finding their way into the district to locate new homes for themselves. The opening of a railroad and extension of navigation has made the way easier during the last two or three years. The principal centres of settlement, and the land districts and provinces in which they lie, are shown on the following table:- - Pkincip.\l Centres of Settlement. St'ttlrinciU. Land District. llllinh I'rairiu ilVace kiwr .LAIIktIj. ii.Mci-cnnan | " ! " 3|Pcai:t' River " j " 4(Dunvi-nari " j " SjSiiirit River |( irande Prairie I " 6i( irande I'rairie j •' " 7 Police Coupe " British Coliinilna. .SiFort St. John jPcace River ■'Hudson Hope. jPeace River and ( iran1". timber berths leased to (>< t. 1. l'>17 petroleum and natural nas leases issued to Od. t. I'HT a in aires eoal ilaims leased to (K(. 1. I'HT ■a in acres (iraiide Prairie. 4'»4 8i6 5ri7 9(K) 29 n l.<.5+i 2.5,. ?81 I.VJ.SO.s ."W 4(),(>()5 (1 .< ) 160 IW) High Prairie. A considerable area of excellent farming land, with pniiries at frequent intervals, is found about the west end of Lesser Slave lake and on the divide between this lake and the Peace River slope. Various settlements have grown up in this district, of which the earlier were Lesser Slave Lake, Salt Prairie, Heart River, and Big Prairie settlements. These were surveyed in settlement lots prior to the extension of the regular system of township surveys. The i)l- wa>- of Athabaska Landing followed the south and west shores of Lesser Slave lake, and at the northwest extremity, at the head of navigation, a trading post was locateil. About this post has grown up the town of Grouard. From Grouard the trail led northerly to Peace River. Lesser Slave lake has for many years been famous for its yields of whitefish. These fish arc caught in the winter, and shipped in a frozen condition. Before the advent of the railway they were freighted by team to Edmonton. P'ishing. freighting, and fur trading were occupations that brought large numbers of Indians and hardy white men into this district. Great areas of ha> : .ds along the shores of the lake encourageH the settlers to raise cattle, and this was followed by the cultivation of choice sections of prairie and lightly wooded lands in the vicinity. A land district embracing over 200 townships about the lake was formed. and an agency established at Grouard for the convenience of the settlers. When the railroad was built it followed westerly about 20 miles beyond the lake before swinging north to Peace River, and then paralleled these older settlements along the wagon road. It crosses a few miles of beautiful prairie located on the height of land between the lake and Peace River, which is now called High Prairie. The old wagon road from Grouard to Sturgeon Lake crossed the same prairie. I'hot... Iiv v. II. Km.>, 1) I. S. linimc ( '■ra-.s .it I'ort Vrrniiliiin. I'hoto. by K. II Kin.. D I. S. Elevators at Town of (irumli- Prairii'. McLenunu. 2<) This prairie ha-< lu-in lixatfd ami siltlcd vtrv rapidly since llu- hiiildiriK of the railroad. About the depot established here h.i> ^rown up the town of High Prairie, where the Dominion Land AKeiuy originally located at (irouard was later establi>hed. This prairie gave its name to the land district as well as to the town, the district formerly called C.rouard luing known later as Higli Prairie l.and District. It has recently been absorbed in the Peace River Lam! District by the enlargement of boundaries of the latter. The soil throughout this section is gi\e, except the hay meadows and marshes found along Lesser Slave lake. The greater |)art of the section is wooded. The woods range frf>m light scattered poplar, with clumps of willow, to thick spruce, jackpine, birch and poplar, up to 8 or 10 inches in diameter. The surface generally is level or rolling, but numerous small rivers, with deep ravines, cut up many (juarter sections and render them until for cultivation. There is u? illy good pasture, however, in these ravines. All orilinary grains, grasses, and vegetables are grown in this section. It is well adapted for mixed farming and contains much good land open for settle- ment. This section is the first reached from thv south. High Prairie being bin 2.^4 miles by rail from Eilmonton. McLennan. McLennan i* die second divisional jKjint on the Kdmonton, Dunvegan and British Columbia Railway, being 262-2 miles northwest of Edmonton. It is the southern terminus of the Central Canafla Railway, which runs 48-5 miles northerly to the town of Peace River. Both of these railroads arc being oper- ated under the same system, thus affording a through service to the north am' west alike. From McLennan the main line of the Edmonton, Dunvegan and British Columbia railway runs westerly to Spirit River, crossing the Smok\- river a fe^v miles below the mouth of Little Smoky river. The old wagon road from C.rouard to Peace River, over which the early settlers toiled from Edmon- ton, passes within 15 miles of McLennan to the cast, so that this section was overlooked entirely during the first rush. Settlers found their way into the Spirit River and C.rande Prairie sections by way of Peace River and Dunvegan, a long, roundabout route, though the only good trail. Later these same settlers, finding it necessary to do considerable freighting to and from Lesser Slave lake, and even Edmonton, located a shorter route from Spirit River to C.rouard. Their wagon road is now almost paralleled by the railroad. The Smoky crossings are within 3 miles of each other, and the wagon road crosses the same township in which McLennan is located. With the opening of the wagon road from Grouard, attention began to be directed to areas of splendid land lying between Winagp i and Kimiwan lakes, and the Smoky river, and settlement here has been rapid since the laying _of steel. 30 The Peace River District. MrLennan is lucatcd on tht- south shore (»f Kimiwan lake. Aliout this lake arc large hay meadows. Northerly along the Central Canada railway is found rich, level land with t)jHn patches, but Renerally wooU. churches, a hospital, ;» d an immigration hall are amr)nK the puhlic buililinKs. Varif)us places of business supply the needs of the town .md adjoinin^c country. A Board of Trade ami an Agricultural Stxiety take active interest in the building up of the district, ("oal has V>een fouiici within 6 miles of tht- town, and gas and oil within 14. The extent of these discoveries has nut yet been determined, but development work is Ix-ing continued and, protitinK by the experience of other localities, no attempt is ,eing made to " wihlc.it " tluni. Excellent farming land extends from the west side of the river right through to Dunvegan, the Sixth meridian In-ing ItKated midway. The chief centre^ ol settlement in this part are- West Peace River, Shaftesbury, Hear Lake, Pauls Corners, and Clrifftn freek. North of West Peace river and Bear lake there is good land open for settlement as far as Whitcmud river. A wagon road extends farther north to Battle or Notikewin river. There is excellent prairie land here, s'.iTOunded by fairly h< avy tii.ii,er. Practically no lind has Inen taken up >et in this part. During ihe season of navigation the Battle prairies can be easily reached by steamer. A wagon road leads from the steamboat landing near the mouth of the river into the heart of the prairie, a distance of 2^ or 30 miles. Supplies are available at the trading post at the Irmding. The land surrounding the town of Peace River, on the same side of the river, is rough and broken by the junction of the Smoky and the Heart rivers with the Peace. There is, however, much gixKl grazing land in numerous valleys and ravines. On the plateau above the valleys the soil is good but mostly wooded, and has some muskeg and marsh. While the choicest prairie locations have been pretty well taken up in this section, there are thousands of acres still available of land just as good, though requiring more work to bring under cultivation. Since the completion of the railroad from Edmonton to Peace River, the northern trade has increased very rapidly. Tourists are now able to go by rail and steamboat into the great Mackenzie and Arctic regions. Trappers,, traders, and prospectors are continually coming and going, and during the season of navigation Peace River has become a busy shipping point. Railroad surveys have been projected northerly to Fort Vermilion and Slave lake, and when the resources and beauties of the north become better known it is expected that this town will play an important part in its development. Dunvegan. Over one hundred years ago barley, potatoes, and several varieties of gartlcn vegetables were grown by the employees of the Northwest Company on the river flats adjoining their post at Dunvegan. The results are said to have been very satisfactory. Grains, grasses, and vegetables are now grown extensively in all sections around this early starting point, and the district is fast developing into one of the most promising portions of the country. 32 The I'r V Kiirr Dislriil. DunvcKaii it^lf is -.ti'" \ .1 lliiilw)ir>t Hay |misi. It i^ lixattd on ilu- iinrlh nhori' nf I'cau- riv . I milt- ahovi- tin- town of thai nanw, ami 1« niiU.. 1>\ trail from Spirit Kivir. Thi- vall>v htrf i» narrow and .lU.ut K(MI fi-ti . KlowtT Garden mi ICxpiriiiU'iital Farm. Fort Wrmilion. 34 The Peace River District. The soil is a ,< ' , il' o. black loam, and vegetation is very luxuriant. Wheat, l)arli-y, oats, M' ; a'i h Columbia railway passes through this district from east to west, (.rading h.is been completed from the end of steel at Spirit River to Pouce Coupe village, .i distance of iibout .S5 miles, and steel will shortly be laiti. With raiKva>- f.uililie>. this district promises to be one of the tinest yet opened. Upon de\elo|)ment of the coal and other resources of the uiiper sections of the Peace, and the com- pletion of railway connection to the coast, undertakings whicli are but a mattir of time, the value of this section will be further enhanced. The princip.il centres at present are Pouce Coupe and Rolla. The Pouce (\)upe country is an ideal place for ranching. It is an elev.ited plateau of about 2,400 feet above sea-level, lying immediately to the east of the Rocky mountains and foothills. The soil is very rich, and wild hay and peavine grow adundantly. The influence of the warm " Chinook " winds is very marked. They sweep through the mountain passes and flood the entire district, from time to time, during the winter, removing the snow and giving pleasant respites from the cold. Even aside from these w.. m waves, the winters are short. Stock pasture out the year around, and the summers are particularly clear and tine. Wheat and all ordinary grains, grasses, and vegetables yield abundantly. The seasons are particularly free from summer frosts and hail, and the climate generally is very pleasant. Fort St. John. Fort St. John is on the north bank of Peace river, on a small Hat at the foot ot steep rugged banks some 800 feet high. It is 1 78 miles by river above Uunvegan. and lies in the Peace River Block in the province of British Columbia. .V wagon road from Dunvegan to Hudson Hope passes through it, and there is also a pack trail from Pouce Coupe. It was established decades ago as a Hudson's Ba. post. Later another trading post was opened which is now operated by Revillon Fri^res. The provincial police of British Columbia have established a station here, and the Dominion Government a telegraph office. There are usually a number of Indians encamped about the post, as this is a rich fur district, and extensive trading is done. The Fort St. John district that is attracting farmers and ranchers lies north of the river on a high plateau. The land is level, and mostly open or very lightly Hudson Hope. 37 woo hea^•y yields of grain and ^•egetables are harvested every year. Hudson Hope is now provided with telegraphic service, the bdmonton- Peace River government telegraph line having recently been extended through to it It holds a very strategic position, and may become an important point when this part of the territory is developed, but at present is well in advance of settlement and does not warrant any boom. \'hi,Lo. by K. 11. Krrro i» I.S. \\mtal)lf!> uniWTi ill IVacc Kivir Valley. S.S. 1). A. Thomas at Peace Riv'.r. Fort Vermilion Country. 39 Fort Vennilion. The last great area of virgin plains still remaining practically untouched by the tide of settlement which is sweeping over other portions of the Peace river district lies away to the north around the old trading post of Fort Vermilion. Last to receive its share of this human tide, and yet first to let the world know of its riches and possibilities, this primitive post still stands guard in the he. .t of a vast solitude which will soon echo with the busy life of thousands of homes. Beautifully situated on the low, broad valley of the Peace, where the waters are wide and placid and the high steep bluffs have given w"y to gently sloping banks scarcely higher than the valley itself, the quaint cluster of buildings stand> out in bold relief and presents an inspiring front. The simple daily routine of duties, the ([uiet methodical trading-post customs, the little groups of Indians loitering about the post, or the flutter of excitement when the steamboat whistle is heard, give the traveller a pleasant glimpse of that life so closely associated with the early settlement of the west. when the trader was monarch of all he surveyed. Located about 250 miles north of the town of Peace River, cut off from the outside world except for steamboat service during a few summer months, and with its interest focused on the fur trade of its own great district, the little rost has lived its own life and retained its simple customs far from the stress and worry of greater centres. The dawn of a new era is just approaching, but the transition will be rapid. About the post are clustered the Hudson's Bay buildings, includnig a modern 50-barrel roller flour mill, steam driven and electric lighted, and a saw and shingle-mill; the Roman Catholic mission; to the east the En^'Oi Church mission; to the western end of the flat the new post of the Peace Rix r Trading Companv; and on the opposite side of the river at North Vermilion, Revillon's post. A few scattered farms ar.- being worked, the missions and Indians culti- vating some choice land. Aside from these only a few '.ettlers, about half a dozen, are on the land. Two striking farms, a few miles up river, the Lawrence farm at Lawrence Point and the Jones farm at Stoney Point, have for twenty years been producing all varieties of grains and vegetables. Vor over a quarter of a century. wheat has been raised about the post, and the possibilities of the district have long since been established. For 150 miles along the river, from Carcajou to Vermilion chutes, and extending 25 or 30 miles on either side, lies one of the most fertile plains of the American continent. The surface is level or gently rolling, and the soil is a rich deep loam on a sandy clay subsoil. Many hay meadows a.e found, and a small percentage of the surface is light muskeg. A few sandy ridges occur, usually covered with jack pine. l.Iuch of this area is prairie, but the predommatm- feature is its park-like nature. Bluf and small clumps of poplar and bircii. with patches of open prairie intervening, or extensive prairies with occasional small poplars scattered singly here and there, is the prevailing nature of the surface. Spruce and heavier poplar and cotton wood are found along the waterways. Willow, alder, and other bush ^ are found on low land but are not as plentiful as «^^ Fort Vermilion. 41 in the Edmonton district. Building loRS, fencing material, and fuel can be f(nind within easy distance of any location, while the shelter for stock obtained from the light woods is an advantage the bald prairie does not possess. Most of the land requires but little clearing, and the soil is remarkably easy to break. 1 lie choicest park lands comprise over a million acres, while another two million acres of excellent land will reciuire but little clearing to fit it for cultivatu.n. There still remain several million acres of gooer acre. Table and field peas. Vep/ early. Doing well. Two varieties yielded well. .\ heavy crop. Fully matured. .•\ l«-autiful array "f ornamental flowering shrubs. .■\ heavy crop. Kxcellent yield. Yield up to 450 bus. Excellent crops. and Sainfoin Strawberries Spinach Siigar beets '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.' \\ heavy crop. 1 oniatoes jCould be ripened if plants were started _, . I in greenhouse. j!"""'!'* IHeavy yield. 1 miothy.. I,\ heavy crop. \ egetable Marrow {.ully matured. •Supt. Experimental Station, Fort VermiJion. 46 The Peace River District. Publications and Information Available. The (lovernment of Canada ami the provincial (iovcrnments of AilnTta .inh ((ilumlMa otTt-r all r»a«)nal)lc indurtimiUs. and assistance to encouraKe thr di Aclopnuiit of the Croat IVati- River Dislriit. ProKressive steps have lieen taken to open it up by est;'.)lisliing lineH of communication and transport. ition on land and river, and by buildiiiK roads anil bridges. Telenraph, telephone, and mail service keep it in toui h with the ohier parts of the country. Law and order are rivtidly enforced and mainfaine)«ct. Apply to. C KaiUay ami Central Cana.la Railway. | * " * Kv. K.lm..n„.„, AlUna. S...an..,.,a, Kau - an-l li.n.. Tal.l. ^IH.- ,],-:.--; '-..^l^- J i;;-' jt;:;: Kivir, AllMTta. The TrarnportatioM Mur. lliidson'^ Hay (■.•mpany, I'l-aci- Kivir, Allnrta. I'.acr River Navigation Co., I.ul.. I'laiT KiviT, Allnri I rill' NiTftarv rill' Hi>.ir'l of Ir.iile, IVaic Kivir, Allirria, or Spirit Rivrr, \llxrta. ortiraiuli' I'rairie, AIIktm. Information re Homestead, open i.i a partl.ular tow,, llu' ;^:X;1\!'ul"nZ!C^^ '" ''*"'" ship. Information re liiisinc-H opportiinitirs.. IJIl MAP OF PEACE RIVER DRAINAGE BASIN IN THE PROVINC KS OF ALBERTA & BRITISH COLUMBIA CANADA Scale .?5 miles to 1 imli i ~--i 7N i>'- '■^N ; ^i *. /w„ »^^ r /^ '-" — •: ''T; '"-1 /^' I \ "' "fc-r i:.i ii.% -'■',.' 1 r If 'i '^. ' r f^i' ' H-^ r ^^- ^4> fy- f- ..fy ijyr.'' :'^ A V iV. ('Y ; r-^. ftOREST it.^ .--i^ S8 Mi ^■Qnw.jRai* BKSai