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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. rata »elure, Id 3 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^ CLEMENTS, ONE OF THE DISCOVERERS OF EL DORADO ^/: »«£ ^^^:r:^ )S::S^ i I? A COMl'LETE GUIDE TO THF, YUKON^GOLD^FIELDS eLEMENTS* QUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE The Fortunate Brakeman's Account of How He Gained His Wealtli ^ ^ s.>^j B, K. P».(JMiSAStiT *■ ■:). L .' ^/Zcv-:/ ^>.^ ^P-^ ^ ^„,i:^ <_^ THE KLONDYKE ...BY. J. I. CLEMENTS DISCOVERER of El Dorado and OWNER with Clarence Berry and FranK Keller of the Celebrated El Dorado Claims Four and Five HOW THE BRAKEMAN GAINED HIS THOUSANDS IN FOUR MONTHS A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE GOLD EICLDS ILLUSTRATED HONEST. RELIABLE, ACCURATE Cdlfcil Inj 0. WHAirrON JAMES 1897 B. R. BAUMGARDT & CO. LOS ANGELES, CAL. C4xC? ■pmur COPYRIGHT 1897 BY J. I. CLBMBNTS AND G. WHARTON JAMES ; AUTHOR'S PREFACE. EVER since it was known that I had been success- ful in my mining operations on the Klondyke, I have been besieged daily by hosts of friends, acquain- tances and strangers, and deluged with letters from all parts of the American Continent asking for reliable information about this newest and greatest El Dorado. The following pages are my answers to the questions I have been asked, and my solemn warning to those who would rush, unprepared and heedless, to the Klon- dyke, under the impulse of momentary enthusiasm. When I made the journey I was going into a terra incognita, and from few, if any, could \ gain any information as to route, cost of travel, depots of sup- plies, etc. This book, if properly studied, will give to the reader and prospective traveler all the necessary information to enable him to make the trip at the right season, in the right manner and over what I regard as the most suitable route. J. I. CivEMENTS, lyos Angeles, California, October, 1897. 101165 EDITOR'S PREFACE. THIS book is a statement of facts. It gives the unvarnished record of Mr. Clements' journey to the Klondyke, his mining experiences and his won- derful successess. It is a reliable handbook of information for those who wish to take the trip, and will, the Editor hopes, serve as a powerful deterrent to all who are unfitted to cope with the many hardships that the best prepared traveler must endure in going to the Klondyke. It is not the everyday man who can carry a heavy load of provisions and supplies over pathle.ss mountains covered with deep snow ; construct a boat that he must guide through raging rapids, dangerous whirl- pools, swirling eddies and swift currents, and often tow against a five to eight mile current over boulders and rolling waves ; sleep out in the open whenever and wherever night overtakes, with the thermometer for seven long months varying from zero to 70 degrees below, and where, in summer gnats'and mosquitoes by the million sting and poison ; prepare his food out of doors under these adverse conditions, and finally reach the gold region to find his labors but begun. For here he must set his brain to work to find a location, and then, tireless energy, powerful strength and indomi- table courage are needed to dig gravel which is frozen solid so far down that the frost bottom has never yet been reached. The man who is willing and able to meet and over- come these hardships has as good a chatice i|i the Klondyke region as many of those who have already gained their fortunes. Scores of miles of rich creek and gulch bottoms are unexplored, and these may pan out as well as the richest claims yet staked. But the intelligent miner will post himself before he leaves home as to what is necessary to make a success of his mining adventures in the Klondyke, and thus deserve the success he hopes to attain. Unlike most of the books published on the Klon- dyke, this book is not full of wild, crazy statements made by irresponsible persons, but is the calm deliber- ate utterances of one of the most succes.'ful miners of the region, the discoverer of the El Dorado and the great $231 nugget, and the present holder of several successful claims. The information herein contained, therefore, is guaranteed to be reliable and safe to follow. G. Wharton James. INDEX. PAOF,. Journey to the Gold Fields 9 First View of Alaska 10 Terrible Chilkoot Pass 12 Alaskan Boat building 13 Tagish House 15 Mash Lake 15 Treacherous Grand Canyon 15 White Horse Rapids 17 Lake Labarge 18 River Scenery 20 Dark Days 21 Bonanza Creek 23 El Dorado discovered 23 Burning and Panning 25 Claims 4 and 5 27 Rich Pans of Dirt 27 More Gold 28 Manner of Living 29 Condition of Labor 30 Miners' Code of Morals and Laws 31 Fake Boomers Hated 32 Reduction of Claims 33 Customs Regulations 33 Free and Easy 34 Gold Dust as Money 35 Mosquito Headquarters 35 vSnow Blindness 36 Indians 37 Return to Civilization 38 People Flocking In 39 Our Return Route 39 St. Michaels 40 Kings of the Klondyke 42 San Francisco and Home 43 Facts About Alaska ." 43 Shall I Go to the Klondyke 48 Instructions About Outfit 49 Provisions 51 Clothing 52 Medicines 54 Powder for Blasting 54 IfiDEX—Coniifiucd. PACK PAOE. •• 9 .. lo ... 12 .. 13 .. 15 • 15 •• 15 .. 17 .. 18 .. 20 .. 21 • 23 • 23 • 25 • 27 • 27 . 28 • 29 • 30 • 31 • 32 • 33 33 34 35 35 36 37 38 39 39 40 42 43 43 48 49 51 52 54 54 Prepare for the Mosquitoes 55 Price of Outfit 55 Frauds in Outfitting 56 Prices paid at Dawson 57 Determination of Route 60 Skaguay Pass 61 White Pass 63 Chilkat Pass 64 Taku Route 65 Stickine River Route 65 Copper River Route 65 Mack '^- • River Route 66 Yukon River Route 67 ^hilkoot Pass 68 When to Start 69 The Start 7^ Bogus Mining Claims 7i Trading Companies 7i Formation of Mining Companies 72 Mineral Resources 72 Game of the Yukon 73 Woodland Caribou 74 Barren Land Caribou • 74 St. Elias Bear 75 Mountain Goat 7^ Mountain Sheep 77 Lynx 77 Wolves 77 Wolverine 7^ Fish 78 Lake Trout 78 Mining Laws of Yukon 79 United States Mining Laws 87 Climate of Alaska 9° Climate at the Gold Fields 93 Dyea 94 Sheep Camp 94 Stone House 95 Caching Provisions etc 95 Where to Stop at Night 96 Lake Lindeman 9^ Boat Building 97 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. n FACING PAGE Clements' Map to the Gold Region 104 J. I. Clements 8 Juneau, Alaska 9 Boat going through Grand Canyon 16 Landing at Eddy of Grand Canyon 17 Clements', Berry's and Keller's Claim on El Dorado Creek.. 32 Miners* Cabin at Dawson City 33 Breaking up of Ice on Yukon 40 McQuesten's Store at Circle City 41 Five Fingers , 48 Forty Mile Post 49 Steamer Alice at Dawson 64 Dawson City 65 St. Michaels 65 Sheep Camp 96 Chilkoot Pass 97 Clements' Dog Team at Circle City 80 En Route to Mines 81 Cabin at Forty Mile Post 8t ! FACING PAGE 104 ' 8 9 16 17 Creek.. 32 33 40 41 48 49 64 65 65 96 97 80 81 81 I^BE'' ' ' ^^HJ^^H^^H^^^^^B' ^^^■fs^il ■H J. I, CLKMENTS, due cf the Dis.overers ot Hi Dorado. < 55 1 1: ■\\ mmmmm CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 9 f) '.*% CHAPTER I. THE JOURNEY TO THE GOLD FIELDS. FVER since I was a boy I have wanted to penetrate J the wilds of the continent where few white men have been. The frontier always had a fascination for me and it has always been my intention to make jnst such a trip some day. During my fourteen years of railroading I had saved quite a considerable sum of money, and when the first reports of the rich finds in the Alaska rivers were published, three or four years ago, I wanted to go, but was unable to do so. Of course I talked the matter over with my friends, and several of them were as anxious to go as I was. When I did make up my mind it was in a hurry. It was on the 1 2th of March, 1896, that I learned that several of them were going to the Yukon Gold Fields, and that very day I resigned my position as brakeman on the Southern Pacific Railway. I was then living, with my wife and two children, in Los Angeles, and, bid- ding goodbye to them, left on the evening of the 13th at 8:15 .jr San Francisco. ; I 10 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. My companions were Frank Keller, brakeman, William House, conductor, both of the Southern Pacific, Charles Lamb, John Doty, both of the Los Angeles street car service, and Mr. Narcross. We made no preparation whatever for the journey in Los Angeles. At Fresno, Clarence Berry joined us. We did not stay long in San Francisco, but went at once to Seattle by rail. There we purchased part of our outfit. After waiting four days for a steamer, we sailed March 20 on the steamer City of Topeka for Juneau. FIRST VIEW OF ALASKA. t ! I I do not remember the exact date upon which we landed at Juneau, but I shall never forget my first impressions of Alaska. They were anything but favorable. I hardly know what I had expected to see, but what I did vSee was a typical frontier town which belonged to some other people and continent. Strange faces, strange costumes, a strange dialect, and, worst of all to me, a strange climate, for I had been accustomed for j'ears to the almost perpetual sunshine of Southern California. Still, I was not in least discouraged and I enjoyed the new experiences. At Juneau we bought the balance of our supplies. You might ask : How did we know what was needed ? We did not know only in a general way, but we depended upon the men who make a business of fur- nishing supplies. At that time it was just as cheap to make the purchases there as to have bought what we needed on the Sound and paid freight to Juneau. As soon as we had made all our purchases of pro- visons, clothing, mining supplies and tools we took brakeman, e Southern of the r,os cross. We rney in I,os id us. We ent at once part of our teamer, we Topeka for i which we -t my first thing but cpected to itier town continent, je dialect, for I had perpetual vas not in periences. supplies. s needed ? , but we :ss of fur- as cheap ?ht what Juneau. of pro- we took CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 11 passage on a small steamer, the Sea Lion, and em- barked for Dyea. The native way of spelling it is Taiya. This town is loo miles north of Juneau at the head of Chilkoot inlet. There was snow everywhere and the country looked anything but inviting. The journey inland begins at Dyea, which is the end of civilization, and the last point of communication wdth the outside world. Guides, dog sleds, etc., were easily obtainable and we left Dyea with our supplies on sleds soon after reaching there. It is possible to take canoes up the Dyea river for six or seven miles, but as that would necessitate another handling of the freight we made the trip to the Chilkoot canyon with dog sleds. The terrible Chilkoot Pass is only four- teen miles from Dyea and across it to the head ot L,ake lyinderman in the Yukon watershed is twenty- three and a half miles. I wish I could properly describe this pass so as to give you some idea of its terrors, but no man who has never crossed it can form any idea of what it is from what might be written of it. The trail leads from the canyon up the rugged .3...esof the mountain along a timbered shelf over- looking the canyon and the river until Sheep Camp is reached. This is practically the timber line, and although the ascent before that is most difficult, here begins the real work of crossing the mountains. A violent storm was raging when we arrived there and we had to wait two weeks before we could proceed. The drifted snow was treacherous and we frequently heard the roar of an avalanche at some distant point in the mountains. In places the wind swept the rocks clear of snow, depositing it in drifts at other places until it was almost bottomless. 12 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. TERRIBLE CHILKOOT PASS. ' I Mil! i llii After waiting two weeks for a favorable opportunity to cross, we finally began the effort. To drag our sup- plies up the pass on sleds with dogs as the motive power was out of the question, so we rigged up a block and tackle and in lots of about one hundred pounds at a time we lifted our freight from shelf to shelf, only to repeat the operation until we reached the summit. The mere description of the manner of working conveys little idea of what it really was. What chance would a party of store clerks, book- keepers, or other men who seldom use their muscles for hard work, have here? It is true they might secure Indian packers to carry their goods at a cost of $14 per one hundred pounds. That was the charge then, but with the rush that is now on the Indians can charge any price thej'^ please. The summit is 4,000 feet above the tide water, and there is a sheer descent on the otner side of, five hun- dred feet to Crater lake, which undoubtedly occupies an extinct crater. The descent is comparatively easy and from Crater lake we followed a small canyon to the head of Lake Lindeman, oui next camp. To make the distance, nine miles, with our entire load in one trip was impossible ; we made three trips of it from the summit to the lake. Owing to the scarcity of timber around Lake Lindeman, it having been burned off, we could not build a boat there, and, there- fore, were compelled to haul our goods to Lake Ben- nett, which is connected with L;ike Lindeuian by a small, rocky stream, one mile in length. VDVKE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 13 >. ALASKAN BOAT BUILDING. opportunity •ag our sup- ) the motive rigged up a ne hundred ^m shelf to reached the manner of really was. srks, book- iir muscles hey might at a cost of the charge he Indians water, and f, five hun- y occupies ively easy canyon to mp. To re load in rips of it e scarcity ing been id, there- •ake Ben- man ])v a To build a boat such as was needed for the remain- der of our journey would be easy enough anywhere that lumber could be had, but to perform such a task there was then an entirely different and very diffi- cult matter. Remember we had nothing but our tools, supplies and sleds, and our only material for boat building was to be found in the uncut forests. Nor was the timber at all places near enough to the water to make the work easy. Every board had to be whip-sawed. A sawpit had to be constructed and trestles to hold the trees to be sawed had to be put up. To get the trees over this pit and to block them in place was not always easy, as some of them had to be rolled quite a distance. Every board was valuable and every nail counted for something, because we knew we might need all we had later. Our boat was finished at last and the work of load- ing it was soon over. It was not possible to float in all places, however, because of the ice, so we sometimes used it as an ice boat. In that manner our progress was rapid. Lake Bennett is twenty- six miles long, and we traversed it without special incidents. We built our boat near the West Arm of Lake Bennett, and put into it an eighteen foot mast with eighty square feet of sail. We had not sailed far before we reached the ice, and there we dragged the boat out oi the water, blocked it upon sleds, fore and aft, rigged a crude steering gear, hoisted our sail and were rapidly blown along. We made fully ten miles an hour where the wind was favorable and the ice good. s HI! liiii 14 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE, The lower end of Lake Bennett reaches up into a beautiful valley, and it seemed as if that was to be the direction we were to take. Instead of this we had to turn to the east, around a high mountain, and enter a low-terraced system of slopes to Caribou Crossing. This is the name given to the connecting strip of water between Lake Bennett and Tagish Lake, or more properly, the Windy Arm of Tagish Lake. The channel is windy and shallow and the current slow. The name was given on account of this being the crossing place of the bands of caribou during their period of migration. At Caribou Crossing we came to water again, and it was not a long task to slip the boat off the sleds into the water and take to rowing. Two miles and a half further on we had to take once more to the ice and we sledded it across the lower end of the Windy Arm, across Tagish Lake and up nearly as far as Tagish House. The Windy Arm is the name given to the south- western portion of Lake Tagish, and is so known because of the fierce winds that generally assail the traveler, at all portions of the year, in making the crossing. Lake Bennett is generally very windy, l)Ut we escaped all rough winds there, only to catch our full share at Windy Arm. This place seems to form a funnel for the wind to enter the White Pass, and boat- men have often been delayed for c'ays until its fury was expended. Many a boat has been wrecked here, and many a poor prospector lost his all owing to the treacherous winds of Windy Arm. Fortunately we crossed it with little difficulty, sled- ding along at a comfortable rate of speed. Tagi.sh Lake was also cros.sed with little incident, and we en| U sl( esi col DYKE. CLEMENTS^ GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 15 "p into a was to be of this we mountain, to Caribou :onnecting- nd Tagish of Tagish ^ and the iccount of of caribou gain, and the sleds miles and re to tlie d of the nearly as le south- J known ssail the nng the ndy, but atch our o form a nd boat- its fury ed here, g to the y, sled- Tagish ind we entered the six mile river which connects Tagish Lake and Lake Marsh. This is a wide stream, with a slow current. It opens into the extended valley, especially to the west, while here and there are lianks covered with cotton wood and white spruce. taoish house. Just before reaching Tagish House we left the ice and re-entered the water. This is an Indian house, kept by the Indians of the surrounding district, who come here annually for their councils of war, their feasts and dances. There are smaller houses around, used by the Indians as dwellings. These houses are kept in repair at each annual celebration of the abor- igines. ______„ MARSH LAKE. We rowed past the historic Indian House, out into Lake Marsh, which is twenty miles in length, and about four miles out had to take the boat from the water again and place it on the sleds. Thus we sledded across Lake Marsh, taking to the water again at the Lewis River, down the smooth current of which we rowed for about twenty-six miles. The water flowed easily about ihree miles an hour, and occasionally we came to a rapid, the roar and noise and dash of which served as a foretaste of the dan- gerous rapids we knew were ahead in the TREACHEROUS GRAND CANYON. A few miles above the Canyon, Silver Creek enters where the sand has piled up in a number of dome- shaped mounds. The current increases in speed, until at last we reach a friendly sign which says: ; I ii ilii 16 CLEMENTS' aUfPE TO THE KLONDYKE. DANGER 1 STOP. And here it was well we did stop, or this simple narrative would never have been written. The canyon is about three-quarters of a mile in length, and, in its widest part, not a hundred feet wide, and the sides rise perpendicularlj' from fifty to twohundreed feet. Above, the river is two hundred and fifty yards wide, and all of the water it contains is crowded into this rocky passage. The roar of the water as it plunges through this place is like a contin- ual roll of thunder, and the speed of the current is something frightful. vSuch is the force with which the water is dashed through that it is crowded up to a crest or comb in the center, which is fully four feet higher than where it strikes the walls. To shoot this canyon a boat must be kept on this crest, which can be done with comparative ease, provided the steersman does not lose his head, but it takes a cool head and and more nerve than many persons possess to make the trip. To those who enter it trusting to luck to take them through it is a veritable death trap. If once a boat gets off that crest there is no hope for it, for it will be dashed against the sides with such force as to splinter it. Occasionally a bowlder lies right in the way of the current, and then the waves dash over it with a wildness and a fury indescribable, throwing great clouds of spray high into the air. Our boat rode over these waves, bounding and leap- ing as though gifted with sensibility and life, and our hearts leaped and bounded in response to the gallant little bark's endeavors. Some idea of the rapidity of the current may be had when the reader learns that our boat went the entiie distance — three- quarters of a mile — in two and one-half minutes. DYKE. this simple f a mile in undred feet "rom fifty to vo hundred it contains roar of the -e a contin- ciirrent is vith which tvded up to y four feet shoot this lich can be steersman i head and to make to luck to trap. If ope for it, with such wider lies he waves scribahle, ) the air. and leap- life, and e to the -a of the tie reader 2— three- minutes. «4 St. '3 ctf-. ilili! M DHIIM lAl! \ ^^ nlnlnill SJfl J pfr'r Ia ■ 1 ■\ ' ' •I ca thi Til thi ha a cr ov in T! si( th af V d m k' i- CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE, 17 There is a portage of a mile and a half around this place if it is desired to avoid the danger that way. SAW FOUR HEN DROWN. Just ahead of us, when we got to the head of the canyon was a party of four young men in a boat of their own construction. How long they had been there I do not know, nor did I learn their names. Their craft started through the canyon all right, and they gave a yell or a cheer. Their steersman must have lost com ol of the boat, for they had gone but a short distance when we saw their boat leave the cres, and dash against the stone sides. It was all over in less time than it takes to tell it, for the boat in.stantl) turned over and disappeared with all on boara. There is an undercurrent which boils and rolls from side to side, and we supposed they were caught in that, for we never saw a sign of them or their outfit afterwards. WHITE HORSE RAPIDS. Grand canyon and White Horse rapids, which are two miles below the canj^on, had caused thirteen deaths that season. The rapids are more dangerous of passage than the canyon, if there could be any greater danger, because they are filed with huge rocks and bowlders. Up to the time I left the camp reports had come in of the drowning of thirteen men at differ- ent times at one place or the other. I do not vouch for the truth of this report, but having seen both places, I am not inclined to discredit it. No photograph or description can adequately por- tray the difficulty or danger of shooting such rapids as 18 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. \\ !i the White Horse. To the onlooker from the side of the river it seems as if there would be but a few toss- ing waves to overcome, but those who have read Major Powell's descriptions of shooting the rapids in the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River will know how to estimate aright the dangers and perils to be met. In the ocean the water of a wave stands still, while the form of the wave moves on. The result is a boat rises and falls and the difficulty is over. But in these rapids the form remains while the water dashes on, so that a boat is often swamped by going under the back-combing wave. Then too, one must avoid the rocks that bar the passage way. Expert hands, arms and muscles are required to steer where the current is smoothest, and to avoid the swirling whirlpools where dire dangers lurk, and Ihe vSeething eddies which crave for man's life. No foolhardy per- son should ever be allowed the control of a boat in such a place, for the greatest poSvSible care and caution must be observed. We were both glad and thankful when our experience was over, and, while it is inter- esting to look back upon, there is no pleasure in con- templating the possibility of its revival. From this point, for thirty-two miles we had plain and easy sailing and rowing. About fifteen miles below the White Horse Rapids the Tahkheena River flows into the I^ewes from the west. It is a good sized stream with a slower current than the Lewes, Twelve miles further on and we entered LAKE LABARGE. This lake is about thirty-four miles long, with an average width of five miles, though in some places it is much wider. At times it is very windy and rough, but when we reached it, after rowing for 2 or 3 miles NDYKE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. ly ti the side of t a few toss- have read he rapids in ;r will know perils to be stands still, he result is over. But J the water id by going 5, one must y. Expert steer where he swirling he seething ilhardy per- f a boat in md caution id thankful it is iuter- nre in con- had plain teen miles en a River is a good Lewes. r, with an 2 places it nd rough, or 3 miles we came to ice, so that we sledded across. It was six o'clock in the morning when we started and it took us 13 hours to get across. This is the last lake of the series, and we now entered .the Lewes River which is the principal tributary of the Yukon. From here to Forty Mile post the journey is one of compar- atively smooth sailing and rov/ ng. There is onl}^ one point which looks very dangerous and that is at Five Fingers. There, at the head of a short series of rapids, are five huge masses of rock rising out of the water. The water runs swiftly between these and the passage on the right, being the deepest, is usually taken. There is really no danger at the place. The Hootaiinqua river enters the Lewes about twenty-eight miles below Lake Labarge, and thirty - two miles further on the Big Salmon also enters. These both come m from the East, or Southeast, and are large rovers, which must drain a vast territor}'. Thirty-five miles below the Big Salmon the Little Salmon ri ;er llows into the Lewes, but, as its name imphes it is smaller and of less importance than its larger namesake. From here to the F'ive Finger Rapids the course of the river is very tortuous, making the distance about fifty-three miles, while in a straight line it would not be more than twenty-five miles. Coal has been discovered on this stretch of river, and a trader named George McCormack is engaged in opening up the seam. Five or six miles below Five Finger Rapids are what are called the Rink Rapids. These are formed by a bar of rocks which looks formidable to the boat- men as it reaches almost entirely across the river. The west side is as rough iis Five Fingers, but the east side is a rapid current with scarcely a ripple. *?i I 'I! Ili^i 1' 1 if I ! 20 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. THE RIVER SCENERY. I will not attempt to describe the scenery, which is very picturesque, the river being studded with hun- dreds of islands. It has been my purpose in describ- ing the trip to point out some few of the dangers, and, to use a popular expression, "there are others." I do not take a pessimistic view of the matter, but if by telling this, I can keep some headstrong persons from rushing into that country by that route without proper equipment or experience, I shall be gratified. The trip down the Lewes to the Yukon at the site of old Fort Selkirk, and thence past Stewart river, Sixtj'^- Mile Post, the Klondyke river, Fort Reliance to Forty-Mile Post, our objective point, was made with- out incident of a startling nature. In the later pages of this book the details of distances will be given. I know now that on that journey we passed over untold millions of % old hidden awa^' in the bed of the rivers and creeks. Part of it we returned up the river to secure, but that is another part of the story. We were three months making the trip from San Francisco to Forty-Mile Post, including the time we spent for preparation at Juneau. During this journey we used almost every kind of locomotion known and followed in these regions. In crossing the Chilkoot Pass we went back and forth three times in order to get all our supplies to where the sleds and dogs could transport them to Lake Bennett. Here, as before described, we constructed our boat in such a manner that, when necessitated by the ice, we could convert it into a sled. From this point on we rowed, sailed and sledded until the open waters of the Lewes were finally reached, when we I '% ^NDYKE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE k'LONDYKE. 21 ery, which is d with hiiii- e in describ- iangers, and, others. ' ' I ter, but if b)^ persons from thout proper itified. The - site of old river, Sixtj'- Reliance to i made with- later pages i given, passed over e bed of the up the river ory. trip from luding the •• During locomotion n crossing orth three where the :e Bennett. I our boat d by the this point the open when we coiitinucd to row and sail to our destination. At times we took the dogs into the boat. This was when the wind and ice were favorable for swift sailing, our sled making sometimes ten and more miles an hour. When our speed was slow the dogs walked or ran, and, occasionally they helped tow the sled over the ice. Of course the dogs were always taken aboard when we came to the open water. During the journey it never grew dark, but day was brighter than night. We stopped for camp every twelve hours or so, either on shore, in tents, or in the boats which were provided with stoves. When in the boats at night we raised the tents over the stoves and our beds, so that we were very comfortable. There was no difficulty experienced in finding wood for fael, as the rivers and lakes were generally lined with it. For protection each man did relief watch duty when we were sailing, although we did not deem this necessary when we were camped on shore. DARK DAY5 NOT OVER. Although we had arrived safely at Forty-Mile Post our hardships were by no means over. This is the center of operations, and we had to decide whither we would go. In the spring of the year it is impossible to me the sledge and dogs, and one must therefore be his own pack horse and tramp through creeks of piercingly cold water, and mud and slush galore. Under such adverse conditions a strong man cannot carry more than from fifty to seventy-five pounds, and even if he has decided upon an objective spot, or is going to a claim already located, a number .iniii iU\ ■,ii 22 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. of such wearisome trips are necessary to convey the needful amount of supplies. If the miner be pros- pecting it is even more difficult, as he must take with him on each Sip all he needs to enable him to eat and sleep while nis prospecting lasts. \ JUST BEFORE DAWN, I have heard the saying that the darkest hour is just before the dawn. That was, indeed, my ex- perience in the Yukon valley after our arrival at Forty- Mile post. When we reached there we were so hardened by the labors of the trip that we were able to stand almost any kind of life, so long as we had enough to eat. Of all places Forty-Mile was the dullest. There were plenty of men there at times, in fact, more men, it seemed, than there was work for. We could secure no work even had we desired to labor by the day, so we spent a few days resting and then struck out for ourselves on a pros- pecting tour. We went down the river for fifty miles or more, to American Creek, on the America'n side of the border. In this vicinity we prospected all summer without success. There were times, of course, when we became discouraged and wished we were at home again if only for a little while, but as that was out of the question, we kept digging. That was my "darkest hour," for the dawn was coming sooner and brighter than I knew. We con- sumed all the provisions we had in our whole sum- mer's work and returned to I'orty-Mile for more supplies. They were hard to get, but we got them. I do not now remember what they cost, but it was fCE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 23 ivey the be pros- ike with I eat and ; hour is , my ex- ir rival at we were we were ng as we Mile was there at there was 1 had we . few days Dii a pros- r for fifty America'!! prospected times, of vvished we ile, but as digging- iawii was We co!i- /hole sum- ; for more got them. but it was such a sum that would make any city grocer a million- aire if he could sell his stock at such prices. There were many men there who had had similar exper- iences to ours, and some of them were more discour- aged by far, for we had never given up hope of striking something. In spite of the disappointments there was plenty of fun there. BONANZA CREEK, While we were there at Forty-Mile the discovery of large deposits of gold on Bonanza Creek was made and the news spread rapidly, as all such news seems to in that country. We at once started for that creek and staked several claims. These we did not work much for the reason that our supplies were again getting rather low and we had to go back to the Yukon for more grub. Perhaps a little descrip- tion of the geography of the country will serve to explain the situation. Bonanza Creek is a tributary of the Klondyke River. At the mouth of the Klon- dyke is Dawson City. Bonanza Creek empties into the Klondyke a short distance above Dawson City. In order to reach Dawson City from where our first claim lay we had come down Bonanza Creek to the Klondyke and thence to its mouth. EL DORADO DISCOVERED. When we were en route to Forty-Mile Post for supplies we camped one night at the mouth of a small stream now known as I{1 Dorado Creek, which empties into Bonanza Creek about i8 miles from its mouth. 24 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. . . ' i Little did we think when we pitched our camp there how near we were to fortune. While the others were getting supplies, Keller and I went up the creek prospecting. What we found surprised us, for we saw the most promising signs of gold that we had yet seen. The surface prospects were such that we were amazed and delighted. We did not have to work long before we found enough to show us that right here we could work and secure a return which we had not expected. We went bci^k at once to the camp and told the others, who at first would not believe what we said. We must have partially convinced them, however, for they agreed to go with us and see for themselves, and that settled it. We all knew that we had something better than Bonanza Creek offered and we JiCtermined to hold it. Aftc- carefully prospecting the place we staked our claims and determined to work them for all there was in them. It was only four days before the news of our discovery had spread over the country, and in a short time that entire creek for twelve miles was staked and preparations were being made to work it. We got the five first claims, and, I believe, the best ones. Those of us who were there first beside myself were Keller, Frank Phiscator, Anton Standard and a man named Whipple. The discovery was made about September ist, and cold weather had set in so that, until we were prepared for it, we could not wvork the claims properly. We built our cabins of rough logs chinked with moss to keep out the cold winds, and to keep in the, heat. Lumber is useful only for doors and floors. To clear away the snow and erect our cabins so as to be comfortable for the winter was no easy task, and we expended two months' l^bor in t^iis 'KE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 25 np there lers were he creek for we we had that we have to us that ni which once to :st would partially id to go settled it. itter than to hold it. ;taked our there was le news of , and in a miles was e to work ilieve, the irst beside 1 Standard was made id set in so i not work i of rough ;old winds, ill only for d erect our ter was no ibor in t^iis direction. At times we would work a little on our claims, but it was not until we got ready to live com- fortably that we began the work in earnest- We knew we had to stay there all winter, so we fixed our quarters the best way we could. BURNING AND PANNING. It was nearly Christmas before we got the first good return. Bedrock there is from six to twenty feet below the surface, and as every inch of the surface dirt is frozen, it was hard to get out. The process of burning out the ground — that is building fires over the claim and thawing the dirt — is interesting enough to be described here, though accounts have often lieen given of the method followed. Most of the pay dirt in the side creeks is covered over with a layer, generally several feet thick, of soft muck. This, of course, freezes solid in the winter w^hen all the mining is done. No slucingor panning can be done when everything is frozen up, so we have a long period of mining and a short period of panning out. When pay dirt is found we lay out the place where we intend to make our shaft, a space, say, four by eight feet. On this we lay wood which has been cut into four-foot lengths. The first laj^er is placed a little dis- tance apart. Then a cross layer, closely packed, is placed above the first, and another across this, and so on. The fire is then applied at the bottom, and as the logs burn they thaw out the ground and make it accessible to the pick and shovel. This burned dirt and gravel are thrown out from as far down as possi- ble, and another fire built. And thus the alternate burnings and shovelings continue until ])edrock is reached. The pay dirt as it is brought to the surface m i mill 26 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. is piled on a dump ready for sluicing when the warm weather comes. From bedrock we tunnel into the pay gravel, by following up the burning-out method. But tun- neling we lay the wood difFeient from the method followed when burning for a shaft. After laying down the lowest section of logs, a little distance apart, and one or two cross layers above it, the next layer in reared up in a slanting position against the wall. As the fire burns, the heat is kept under this slant- ing layer of logs and forced upon the side wall instead of the ceiling, as would be the case with a straight pile of logs. The result is, that, by and by, the upper part of the wall as it thaws, begins to fall in, but, the gravel dropping on the slanting logs, slips to the ground without putting out the fire. Thus, rapid progress is made, for, during the night, when thus partially covered with gravel, the wood becomes charcoal, and, with intense heat, slowly smolders away. When we are working underground these fires are always laid at night after finishing the day's work, so that the wood can burn all night. As soon as the fire has burnt itself out and the gases have all escaped, the thawed out gravel is shoveled into the buckets and is hoisted to the top of the dump. But the cold is so intense that it is a common thing for the gravel to be frozen almost solid ere it reaches the surface, so tliat it requires hard work to force it from the bucket. Thus, slowly, the work of drifting into the gravel and bringing it to the surface goes on. Had powder been included in our mining equipment we could have made greater progress by blasting. \ m /hen the ravel, by tun- method laying ce apart, ext layer the wall, his slant- dde wall je with a y and by, )egins to I slanting g out the uring the Tavel, the ;at, slowly Be fires are ly's work, It and the gravel is to the top ; that it is zen almost it requires us, slowly, bringing it included in ade greater CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 27 As soon as spring comes, preparations are made for sluicing. The water-ways are put in, and as soon as the warm hands of the sun release the bonds winter has placed on everything, the gravel is washed and the gold taken out. CLAinS 4 AND 5. When it came to dividing up the five claims our party of prospectors had staked out, claims 4 and 5 were awarded to three of us— Clarence Berry, Frank Keller and myself. We worked faithfully on these claims until the thaw set in, and then set to work to sluice out our gold . I do not care to go into particulars too fully, as I do not desire to be classed among those who have been bragging about that country without telling also of its dangers and hardships. Let it be sufficient when I say that out of claim five, from a space less than eighty feet square, the three of us cleaned up, between January ist and the middle of May more than $150,000. While all the claims on the Eldorado did not pan out as rich as these two, yet I presume there were fully two million dollars worth of gold taken out on that creek alone in those four months, in spite of the fact that the work was all done with the crudest possible appliances and under the worst disadvantages. RICH PANS OF DIRT. The richest pan of dirt to my knowledge, taken out on El Dorado was from Claim 32. It netted $1,300. The largest pan I ever made personally was one of m 'I l!';l !| 'i!i! ii 28 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. $775. The great nugget, which I discovered, and still have in my possession, taken out from our claim, weighs thirteen ounces and is worth $231.00, and as a specimen it is valued at $500.00. HARD WORK. Was it hard to find? Well, no; but there was plenty of hard work about i'. Almost all of it was coarse gold, and there is, we know, more gold in that dirt which we washed out, but the particles were too fine to notice easily. We will doubtless work it all over again when we go back, for we are going back next year. Bear in mind that each claim when I was there was five hundred feet long and we only worked a space about eighty feet square. How much more gold is there no man can tell Other miners above us were equally successful. Many of the nuggets could be poked out with a stick or a pocket knife, out of the frozen dirt which was thrown up. nORE GOLD TO BE HAD. Such is the richness of the Klondyke region. In spite of the fact that such quantities of gold have been found, I am almost certain that the country has not been scratched as yet. The water shed of the Yukon is almost as large as the Mississippi valley, and while I do not say that gold can be found all over it, there are many places in the interior where the foot of white man has never trod, where are rich dis- coveries yet to be made. Some of these places cannot now be reached on account of the fact that they are so remote from points of communication with the out- % YKE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KI.ONDYKE. 20 ered, and ur claim, , and as a here was of it was )ld in that 5 were too 'ork it all oing back hen I was ly worked auch more lers above e nuggets ; knife, out egion. In gold have ountry has hed of the ippi valley, md all over where the ire rich dis- aces cannot at they are ith the out- side world that no party could get supplies to them. It would be impossible for a party to carry their own supplies, because of the distances and roughness of the country. They might get far into the interior, but how could they live a year and travel from place to place prospecting ? I would not care to be the one to advise any man to try it. The Klondyke country is even now 'filling up with inexperienced men who know nothing of woodcraft, boating or camping, but have been raised without hard work. There is no doubt that such men will materially suffei, though some of them may strike it rich and be able to endure the frightful hardships. riANNER OF LIVING. Everything considered, our claims located and our prospecting over, we managed to make ourselves fairly comfortable in the winter time. We built huts of rough logs, and protected ourselves from the cold by closing all the places where the air could get in by chinking them with moss. Our food was necessarily of the plainest possible kind, for delicacies had not reached Alaska then, and we did not need ice cream. Bacon was by no means the only meat we had. The Indians supplied fresh meat all the time. As moose, caribou and bear are numerous, we got all we wanted of that kind of meat. The vegetables, of course, we either took with us or purchased there, and so far as food was concerned it was just what was needed. Plenty of food could be purchased if you had the price, and if you had not you could get a bite at almost any miner's table. To come to a man's house at meal m 'III 80 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. time, and not accept the invitation to eat which was invariably offered, was to insult the one who made the offer. The only fresh vegetables we were able to purchase there were turnips and lettuce. We enjoyed these immensely. They were raised on the roofs of the cabins, which being covered with one or two feet of soil and moss, warmed from below by the heat of the cabin, and from above by the heat of the sun, made excellent gardens. In winter drinking water is obtained by first select- ing a place where the ice is thick and clear, then blocking it out and melting as occasion requires. THE CONDHi : OF LABOR. Necessarily, the conditions that govern labor in new raining camps, like those on the Yukon and Klondyke, varj'' with great rapidity in the early days of their existence. Uo to the time I left, laborers or miners were in demand, and were commanding $io to $15 per day lor six to ten hours services. We worked thirtj^-five men on our claim for the greater part of the winter, and could have given employment to many more. But it must l)e rememl)ered that from now on the probabilities are that there will be a glut in the labor market, unless the extent of the gold fields increase in proportion to the great influx of population. Skilled mechanics command no greater pay than industrious, able-])odied men, but, as the po])ulation increases skilled labor will be more in demand and will command its proper price. which was who made :o purchase joyed these ools of the two feet of heat of the sun, made first select- clear, then luires. CLEMEN TS' C.UIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 31 MINER'S CODE OF MORALS AND LAWS. irn labor in Yukon and 2 early days eft, laborers ^oraraandinfT r vices. We f the greater employment ed that from will be a t of the gold ;at influx of vc pay than e po])ulation ilemand and The miners are free enough with each other so long as everybody does his share, but as soon as a man is known to be taking unfair advantage, cheating or otherwise conducting himself in a manner at variance with the miners' rather liberal code of ethics, the country becomes a little warm for him, even if the temperature is fifty degrees below zero. Several men have been run out of the country for shady transac- tions, and others have not been so fortunate as to be able to get away. In spite of the presence there of the Canadian mounted police, the miners have their own laws about matters which interest them directly. More than one man has felt the rope because he was caught stealing. The supposition that every man is honest is followed so long as a ninn acts honestly, but once he gets the name of being otherwise, he might as well leave. On the way to the gold fields and through that country at fref[uent intervals there may be seen bundles of goods, — packs which have been left there by their owners until they can return for them. These packs contain food, clothing, picks, etc, and are plainly marked so that they can be identified. If a man comes across one of them and is hungry, he can take what he wants for immediate use and if he cannot pay for it he has only to leave a note telling the owner just what he took and why, and who he is. Nothing is ever thought of that. If, however, he were to steal the pack and be caught with it, he would be more than likely to dangle at the end of a rope. . ■'^!i:|.i| ihuS^! :ii!!iili ' I 32 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. FAKE BOOMERS HATED. If there is one class of men whom the miners hate and despise more than another it is that class who go to the mines, make their fortunes, and, coming out, tell stories of the great richness of the country without telling what dangers and hardships are to be encoun- tered. Some of this class will be responsible for the life of many a poor fellow who is even now attempting to reach the interior where he has been led to believe he can pick up gold wherever he goes. The effect of some of these stories has been to send thousands of men into a country which contains supplies enough for hundreds only. That there will be suffering and death for many of them, instead of the fortunes they expect, is certain. Should some of the men who have started these stories go back there, and some of them will, they will be given a bullet or two, and they deserve it, too. They have been the cause of filling the camps with hungry mouths, and as the miners will help all they can, it means that nearly all must suffer. There is no selfishness in this feeling among the men already there, but they know what the trip means and they know what it is to be there in winter with only a small supply of food. That crisp, cold atmosphere serves to whet a man's appetite until he requires more food than he would need at home. REDUCTION OF CLAIMS. 'I \ iiPiliiii i'! Ml t I have noticed in the press dispatches that the Canadian government has decided to reduce the size of the claims to oJie hundred feet instead of five hun- dred feet, as the miners' laws allow. If they try it I DYKE. niners hate ass who go oming out, try without be encoun- >ible for the attempting to believe ^he effect of lousaiids of ies enough iffering and rtunes they n who have me of them o, and they 5L of filling the miners rly all must ^ling among hat the trip re in winter t crisp, cold ite until he home. les that the uce the size of five hun- they try it I 'n M "5 5 X. u i i: n lilli '!! >li i! in '-> 1 a o 0! a o: tl b it tl di re m m a: in . in all en ,2 S I all i>i •^ ^^' IK) ISO po of mi CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 83 2^tJt^ 1 >: j' C*^ ■•V^«, ^ v; rt ?. 'J •• /■ am inclined to think there will be strong remonstrance offered. No one is more ready or willing to assist in the preservation of order than the miners themselves, but when it comes to reducing the size of their hold- ings there may be a clash. Think what it means to them ! On El Dorado creek it is estimated thut the ? dirt is worth $i,ooo per foot for twelve miles. Is it I reasonable to suppose that the men will quietly sub- I mit to the seizure of four-fifths of their holdings ? It I may be, of course, that the Canadian Government I would not make such a law to be retroactive. If such ' a law is made reducing the holdings, miners coming ; into the region will be required to submit to laws then \ in force. The injustice would be, to take away claims already staked and partially worked by miners acting I in good faith under the laws in force when they I entered the country. 1 Up to the time I left there, no percentage of gold k '.)und was taken by the government, as has been j • Ov-ted. CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. % 'it The Canadian government is collecting a duty on all goods brought into the country from the American side. We had to pay from 20 to 30 per cent, on value of our equipment. It was collected at Dawson City, where the headquarters of the department had been estab'ished. vSome miners are attempting to evade a portion of this duty, and many of the persons now going there will escape it altogether, but the mounted police are securing all they can. The personal rights of the miners are being protected by the authorities as much as possible, and the life there is different from w 84 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. what the forty-niners found it in California. The Canadians undoubtedly hate to see Americans carry- ing off so much gold and they are trying to keep all of it they can by whatever possible regulations thej'' ;■«- establish. The miners know the law, however, . they as a class are not easil}' fooled by any mere display of supposed authority. If an unjust charge is made they apply to headquarters and it is set right or they know the reason why. Mr. Constantine, com- manding the mounted police and acting Gold Commis- sioner was in charge when I left, but I understand a Grid Commissioner has since been sent there. Mr. Constantine attended to the recording of all claims and did all he could to legalize our titles to our holdings. FREE AND EASY. Everything is wide open in the towns and posts, if I may use that expression. A man can get almost any kind of a game he wants. Faro is the favorite, but there is also nearly all the other forms of gaming. I suppose by this time a man can get a confidence game if he wants it. There is no doubt that the arrival of so many people from the outside will cause a change in the camps. Men will have to lock up their gold instead of keeping it in bags in their cabins as we did. There will be wildcat schemes of a ques- tionable character exposed and the tenderfeet who start them may inimediately afterward be no more. There may be odd jobs for such an official as the coroner from time to time, but on the whole the order in that part of the country will be fairly good. Most of the miners are good citizens who will support the police in the maintenance of law and order, and C ThJ go iiios pos will 'DYKE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 35 Drnia. The icans carrj^- to keep all latioiis they w, however, by any mere ist charge is ; set right or antine, com- old Commis- mderstand a there. Mr. 11 claims and )ur holdings. so far as the civil and personal rights of a man are concerned he will be as safe there as elsewhere. and posts, if 1 get almost the favorite, IS of gaming. a confidence Libt that the Lde will cause \ to lock up 1 their cabins es of a ques- nderfeet who be no more, official as the tiole the order good. Most 1 support the d order, and GOLD DUST AS MONEY Probably at no place now or ever before is business so generally done with gold dust or nuggets as a medium of exchange, as on the Klondyke. In buying a quarter of moose of the Indians, or paying for a hair cut, you either weigh out the dust, or give a nugget of a size that you think contains about the required value. The miners receive their wages in gold dust or nug- gets, and generally it is paid them every day. The gold, during the winter season, is obtained for Ibis purpose by taking some of the richest of the frozen pay dirt or gravel into the cabin, where enough ice is melted to secure water to wash it out in what the miners term a mud box. MOSQUITO HEADQUARTERS. One of the greatest hardships one has to endure at the diggings during the warm weather is in battling with mosquitoes. It seems that all the mosquitoes in the world have caught the gold fever and have Ussembled along the rivers, lakes and creeks of Alaska. They are the pest that is dreaded by all miners who go there. Combine all the stories of New Jersey tnosquitoes you have ever heard with all that you can possibly imagine that is terrible about them, and you will not then have any idea of what a pest they are. They swarm in countless millions in the diggings and bite everthing they can. They will bite a man "W: '"in''! I '! li! i I !i u lliiiiillL 111 '■ I '.■■• 36 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. through his trousers, or crawl up his sleeves or trouser-legs and sting their victim. I have seen men drop to the ground and cry in pain because of their bites. There have been many cases of insanity caused by them. Mosquito netting is taken, but it does not always serve as a complete protection, for it soon becomes cumbersome and in the way and very un- pleasant. When the weather is warr est the mos- quitoes are the thickest. After the netting has been discarded by a miner, and he attempts to work with- out it, he is soon forced to retreat to his cabin to escape further battle and soothe the pain. Some people find pennyroyal or spirits of camphor keep the pests away from them, and at Seattle one can buy a druggist's "sure cure" prescription. But I tried them all, and the mosquitoes paid no more atten- tion than a hungry negro would if a bottle of rOvSe per- fume were put between him.self and a fine watermelon. The more " stuff" I put on, the more the mosquitoes botliered me, until, at last, I quit using anything and let them go ahead and suck out my good blood while they innoculated me with their poison. i -I I' :' 14! SNOW BLINDNESS. In crossing the mountains and also at the diggings when the ground is covered with snow many persons suffer from snow blindness. I have even seen dogs, when crossing the Chilkoot Pass, go blind. When one is so attacked he has to be killed. The best pre- ventive of this painful and sometimes dangerous affliclion is a pair of l^lackened or slightly smoked glasses with square side winkers. In purchasing tb^ the 1st J,^u DYKE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 37 sleeves or e seen men ise of their nity caused it does not for it soon id very un- st the mos- ig has been work with- lis cabin to of camphor ittle one can ;ion. But I > more atten- i of rose per- watermelon. I mosquitoes nytbing and blood while the diggings nany persons seen dogs, )lind. When 'he best pre- is dangerous btly smoked 1 purchasing don't V)e temi)ted to buy green or blue goggles, or any high colored glasses, but those that are the least smoked,— just enough to take off the intense brilliancy of the sunlight on the snow. INDIANS. In a trip to the Klondyke one meets with ten differ- ent tribes of Indians, and it is well to know something of their habits, dispt;sition and character. The Chilcats live nearest to the Coast, in the coun- try immediately surrounding the Lynn Canal. In all, there are only about i,ooo of them left, and their number is rapidly diminishing, owing to the demoral- izing effects the white men's vices have had upon them. While avaricious, tricky and shrevved in mak- ing a bargain, always forcing a white man to pay all they possibly can for their services, they are generally reliable when engaged to transport supplies across the pass ; although cases have been known where, on reaching some difficult point on the journey, they have endeavored to raise the price for which they had contracted. When, however, they do work, they " will make long journeys across the mountains into the interior with heavy loads upon their backs, climb the moimtaiu trails, struggle across great glaciers, wade icy streams, and, in a thinly clad, half-starved condition, endure privations from which, to the tour- ist, it would seem death would be a welcome relief." Near Dawson and also at Juneau, the Indians make themselves useful in many ways — sawing lum- ber, building log calkins, unloading steamers, acting as i guides to the miners while crossing the country, pack- Iili' 38 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. V\\ ii !• lii i! ' ' M iiiiijii!!!!! •Plill ing provisions to the miners during the summer, and hauling supplies on dog sleds during the winter. The Stick, Copper, and other tribes of the interior are of the vagabond order, and, aside from hunting, are of little assistance to the white men, and many of them positively will not work for wages. In supply- ing the miners with wild meat they always drive a good bargain. They are excellent hunters, and very skilful in the management of their birch bark canoes in the swift waters and rapids of the rivers. The traveler soon notices that there are but few old bucks or squaws in the Copper Tribe. It is related that during one of the attacks of the Copper In- dians upon the Yukon tribes, in 1882, for the pur- pose of stealing all the young squaws of the Yukons, the Coppers were not aware of the fact that the Yukons had received a nnmljer of guns and rifles from the traders. The attack was made with the crude and antiquated weapons of warfare of long ago, such as clubs, stone axes, bows and arrows, etc., and they met with the direst defeat. It was .simply annihilation for all the warriors of the Copper tribe, and nianj^ of the squaws were also slain. RETURN TO CIVILIZATION. At the close of our first season's successful opera- tions we decided to visit home for the winter. So, arranging all our work for the coming year, we left Dawson City June 19th, of this year, 1897, on the steamer P. B. Weare, and came down the Yukon nearly two thousand miles to ^''s mouth, and thence to St. Michaels. thi ri) trJ )YKE. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. H9 nmer, and [iter. he interior n hunting, id many of In suppiy- lys drive a 5, and very lark canoes but few old [t is related ;:opper In- or the pnr- he Yukons, Lct that the s and rifles ie with the re of long UTOWS, etc., was simply opper tribe, I. essful Opera- winter. So, year, we left 1897, on the the Yukon I, and thence Nothing of an exciting nature was experienced con'ing out, since it was smooth sailing down the clear and chilly Yukon. Occasional stops were made to throw wood aboard for fuel, which was supplied by the Indians for "any old thing" the boat's ofificers chose to thrust upon them. Herds of moose and caribou, and numerous bear were seen, and occa- sionally the Indians would bring us some of their meat. PEOPLE FLOCKING IN. At the time of our leaving Dawson City, people in large numbers were arriving frequently, usually in squads. An amusing incident occurred a short time before we left. A big, black bear was seen standing on an ice floe, floating down the river towards Dawson. He had evidently attempted to cross the stream when the ice broke up and set him adrift. He was acv'.ng the " Pathfinder," or drum major, for soon the arri- val of seventy-five boats of new comers occurred. The bear became the target for a host of shots and was soon dispatched by the "Mayor" of Dawson City. The meat was then divided equally between the rival cities of Dawson City and Klondyke, which occupy sites on opposite shores of the Klondyke River. OUR RETURN ROUTE. The Yukon route for coming out was selected for the reason that at that time of the year — June — the river is open and afforded a through trip without transfer of any kind from Dawson City to St. Michaels, 1::! 'in!! mm^\ 40 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. while the Chilkoot Pass route would have required portage around the rapids, and packing over the pass itself. But the pass route should be taken either going in or coming out when the Yukon is not open, which is the case between the middle of September and May or June of the following year. Therefore, those who take the trail route in March or April will arrive at Dawson City ahead of those who wait until the mouth of the Yukon at St. Michaels is clear of icebergs — late in June. At the same time, it must not be forgotten that the Yukon route is round-about, for to reach Dawson City from San Francisco or Seattle this way, ' is at least 3,000 miles further than by the Chilkoot Pass route. I am of the opinion that the Pass route within five years will be the popular route, since the pass could be made more accessible and easy to cross and a line of steamboats be established on the chain of lakes. This would not require more than two transfers around the rapids, and would give a steamer service from Lake Lindeman direct to Dawson City. It would also be a pleasanter, and a much shorter route than by the Yukon. Of course any transportation service over either of the routes would have to be adapted to the seasons. It would be almost impossible to get over the Chilkoot Pass l)etween vSeptember ist and April ist and take any supplies. AT ST. MICHAELS. At St. Michaels, situated on an inlet of Behring Sea, which is the Trading Company's headquarters, and of but three hundred population, we embarked on the Steamer Portland, for Seattle. nVR'E. ve required ver the pass aken either is not open, :)tember and refore, those vill arrive at 1 the mouth ebergs — late be forgotten for lo reach tie this way, the Chilkoot ;e within five le pass could ^ss and a line \in of lakes. :wo transfers tamer service ion City. It shorter route )ver either of ) the seasons, :r the Chilkoot t and take any et of Behring headquarters, e embarked on .14 _2 5 'J u CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 41 r "ii An incident occurred here which fully illustrates an Alaskan miner's craving for fresh vegetables after a six months' winter at the diggings. Just as we boarded the Portland we espied several sacks of potatoes and onions which were to be unloaded, but until each miner had his fill of them raw — some eating as many as seven potatoes — they were not transferred to the dock. Those who ate the onions actually shed tears at the sight of their companions eating raw potatoes. We looked forward to the ocean trip to Seattle as a great change from the smooth and unexciting trip down the Yukon, and we were not at all disappointed, for soon we were surrounded by icebergs so num- erous that the ship had to lay-to for several hours to allow them to pass by. Then followed a rough sea which caused the ship to pitch and roll until the cross bars dipped in the sea, and we enjoyed the ex- citing time, as the sailors sped aloft to furl the sails and obey other orders of the captain. Four days out from St. Michaels we arrived at Unalaska, where we were treated to a most agreeable change of scenic diet. Here we saw gardens and hillsides blossoming with flowers and grasses, and such roses and violets ! I had never seen their equal even in Southern California, the land of flowers. After having lived months surrounded by either snow banks or clouds of mosquitoes this seemed a sure enough paradise. But it must not be forgot- ten that also in the arctic circle wild flowers of the most beautiful colors grow profusely, of which I secured quite a collection. After a one day's stay at Unalaska we continued our journey to Seattle, where we lauded about July 15th. 42 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. KINGS OF THE KLONDYKE. The excitment caused by our arrival there with so much gold has been heralded throughout the world. It was owing to the way our gold was transferred that we received the name, ''Kings of the Kloukyke," and I was "accused" of having brought home a four-horse wagon load of gold. One item that has gone the rounds of the press and has been copied into several books on the Klon- dyke records how Mrs. Eli Gage, wife of the son of the Secretary of Ihe Treasurj'^, came from St. Michaels '^n the Portland to Seattle. She said : " This ship had on board the greatest of the fortune finders. Frank Phiscator, who went from Lower Michigan, had $96,- 000. This I know to be a fact, as I saw the metal. Clarence J. Berry had more yet, and a man named Clements seemed to have a wagon full. The ^ three men and one other were wise before they left the aver. They bought all the claims they could get, and it might be said that they are the kings of the Bonanza, the El Dorado and the other of the best known creeks. It is not possible for any human being to calculate how much they are worth." The wagon load story ;yot spread abroad in th:"s way. On our arrival at Seattle I went down to Wells Fargo' s Express Office to gel a wagon to haul up our gold, while other members of our party stopped to guard it. When the wagon came — a heavy express wagon, with four fine horses— the gold was loaded into it, and the special messenger, handing me a short shot-gun, asked me to sit on the gold and help him protect it as it was taken to the office. On our arrival there the crowds that assembled stopped all traffic for CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 43 one or two blocks, and they crowded into the express office simply to see the bags of pvecious nuggets and ask questions about them and the region from which they had come. ON TO SAN r^RANCISCO AND HOME. But the metal waj not long in Seattle. We left as early as possible by train for San Francisco, where the major part of my gold was stored for a.'/hile, and then, parting with my friends, I journeyed with my wife and children, who had come there to meet me, on to our home in I^os Angeles. FACTS ABOUT ALASKA. The following interesting facts in brief about Alaska were prepared for and published in the Chicago Times- Herald b)^ Mr. H S. Canfield, and are so pertinent and timely that they will well bear repetition in these pages : Alaska is two and one-half tim'" '. as large as Texas. It is eight times as large as all iX ew England. It is as large as the South excluding Texas. It is as large as all of the States east vof the Missis- sippi and north of the Ohio, including ^'irginia and West Virginia. It makes San Francisco east of cair center. Its coast line is 26,000 miles. It has the highest mountain in North America. It has the only forest covered glacier in the world. The Treadwell is one of its greatest gold mines. It has the best yellow cedar in the world. i I U CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. It has the greatest seal fisheries. It has the greatest salmon fisheries. It has cod barks that beat Newfoundland. It has the largest river in the world. A man standing on the bank of the Yukon one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth cannot see the other side. The Yukon is twenty miles wide seven hundred miles from its mouth. With its tributaries it is navigable 2,500 miles. It is larger than the Danube. It is larger than La Plata. It is larger than the Orinoco. It discharges one-third more water than the Missis- sippi. The water is fresh fifteen miles from its mouth. It has more gold in its basin than any other river. Its color is beautifully blue to its junction with the White River, 1,1 10 miles above its mouth. Alaska runs 1,500 miles west of Hawaii. Yukon basin gold is estimated at $5,000,000,000 The necessary eruptive force for the formation of great fissure veins is everywhere evident in Alaska. Silk should be worn next the body, then woolens and then furs. Citric acid should be taken to prevent scurvy. The food there produces rectal diseases. Take medicine. Snow glasses should not be forgotten. Nowhere are mosquitoes so numerous. There are two kinds of poisonous flies. There are no snakes in Alaska. Moose are plentiful. The flesh resembles Imrse flesh. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE K TON DYKE. 45 Capital of stock companies organized to do business in Alaska aggregates $200,000,000. It is probable that in twelve months Dawson will be Avithin four days of Juneau. In central and northern Alaska the ground is frozen to a depth of two hundred feet. Snowfall in the interior is very light — 6 inches or so. The heaviest rain and snow are on the southeast coast. No land contains finer spruce timber. In its low temperatures gold filling in teeth con- tracts and falls out. Use amalgam. Men born in southern latitudes have become insane in the long dark. Take a chess board and men. They prevent dementia. The medicine chest should hold pills, pills, pills. A temperature of seventy- five degrees below zero has been recorded. When it gets lower than 50° there is no wind. A tent is as good as a house and is cheaper. No shelter is needed only when the wind blows. At other times a sleeping bag answers all purposes. Just below rapids ice forms only nine feet thick, and there fishing is done. In other places it will reach forty feet. In the dark season twilight lasts six hours and almost any kind of work can be done. Elk, caribou and grouse are common and easily killed. Don't eat snow or ice. Melt them. Else quinzy. In low temperature the inside of the throat some- times freezes. This is locally called '' frost burning." For frozen fingers use? cold water. 46 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. ;i ' ' You can bathe only the feet and face. Sweat under blankets in summer or get rheuma- tism. In summer all land not mountain is swamp. Under foot is ice cake, overhead twenty- two hours sun. Boil underclothing. Freeze sleeping bags, to pro- tect yourself from vermin. Talk on the ice-pack is heard half a mile. An expert placer lalner can pan dry. Alaskan "dust " is as big as wheat. Some gold is fine enough to float. Wear silk gloves and then fur. The Eskimo is virtuous, the Chilkat is not. Canadian police are highly efficient. Reindeer will be the future locomotives. Alaskan dogs are wonderfully intelligent —the result of selection and heredity. The natives eat much decayed fish. Thousands of miners irom other nations will go. A Chicago company leads in Alaskan exploration. Hay grows as high as a man's head. All streams show true gold fissures. Take plenty of flour. Buy all you think you need, then buy more. Last winter a man killed himself, because he had five pounds of baking pow- der and no flour. Under act of Congress communities of miners can make their own laws. No thief ^■ets a fairer trial anywhere, nor any prompter execution. Make caches en platforms six feet high. Wolves. It will pay yoi-. to wait a year or two. It costs $i,ooonovv and will cost $200 then. CLEMENrS^ GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 47 All distances are gigantic. It is 2,000 miles from bitka to Klondyke. A boat leaving Dawson September 20 is chased to the mouth by freezing water. All wood in the Aleutian Islands grew on glaciers m Alaska. Whole forests break into the sea. Some streams are bridged by glaciers Some wood is beautifully polished by glacial action. Avalanches in the interior are unknown. Owing to the dryness there is not much suffering from the cold. ^ Take a 40-80 rifle with telescope sights. Exposed portions of the body freeze in three min- utes. Enough library: One Bible. One Shakespeare. Snow shoes not needed in the mine country. Buy mines from discouraged miners. Trading companies will not carry goods for com- petitors. Next year competition will bring down the prices 50 per cent. Meals on the boat up the river cost |i each. 48 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. \\ I' CHAPTER II. HOW TO REACiTtHE KLONDYKE. SHALL I GO TO THE KLONDYKE? The questions asked of me oftenest since ray return from the Klondyke gold fields are: What are the prospects for one who goes to Alaska? Would you advise me to go ? These are both important and serious questions; important and serious to the man asking them, and equally important and serious to the man answering them. In answering them I presuppose that the man, (or woman, for I have often been asked these ques- tions by a woman), asking them is seeking honest advice, on which to a certain extent he will act in deciding whether to go or not. His hopes of wealth depend, perhaps, upon my answer, and I know full well, that many a man's life has been sacrificed to fol- lowing bad advice given in answer to the two above questions. Hence the aujAverhig of them is a most solemn and .serious matter to me. I write thus fully and freely in the commencement that there may be no misunderstanding of my position. I am determined that no man shall be able to come to me, when I return to Alaska, and say, " Because I followed your advice, which was thoughtlessly and xu ■Ji Ua CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 19 carelessly given, I am here and in desperate straits! " Hence, if I make any mistakes in the following answers and explanations they are errors of judgment and knowledge, and not errors caused by carelessness or indifference. Now, having thus fully relieved my mind, I answer the two forementioned questions by saying: If you must go to the Klondyke country and cannot rest until you do, go by all means, regardless of the advice given by those who have been there ; bat if you have any regard for your comfort, or perhaps for your life, or if you have any family ties, think twice before starting, and then think seriously again. Learn as much as you can of the country, and what the jour- ney means, for it is about an even chalice now that unless you do you may never return. In getting there every man must endure hardships of some kind, — that is certain. But it is not equally certain that every man will obtain the wealth he desires after he has un- dergone those hardships. Therefore, I neither say "Go!" nor " Stay!" I am fully satisfied there is gold there — tons of gold — but too much has been said and written about it, and much too little about the hardships and perils to be encountered. INSTFiUCTIONS ABOUT OUTFIT, ETC. Other questions frequently asked are : What outfit is necessary and what will such a trip cost ? I know these are natural questions, but to answer them is not so easy. I will try to give you, in a general way, a list of just what a man needs ; but let me say, the equipment depends not only on the size 50 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. of a man's purse, but upon the man himself, it were better to go into that country with ten times as much food as is needed and a little money, than to take a small supply of food and plenty of money, for, once there, money will not always buy food. The matter of clothing is not of so great importance as that of food, for clothing can be obtained with comparative ease — that is, clothing such as will keep out the cold. Every man who starts should take along enough food to last him a year at least. Tv/ice that much would be so much the better, for food can always be disposed of there. Another point to be consid- ered is the selection of such food as will not spoil for a long time. The cold, of course, acts as a pre- servative, but it will not keep all kinds of eatables. Good coarse food that nourishes is the kind needed, and, as I have before stated, that climate gives a man an enormous appetite. If a man is going to stay, say eighteen months, the following would answer his purpose. It can be varied to suit the taste: ! i PROVISIONS. Bacon, 200 pounds. Flour, 800 to 1,000 pounds. Corn meal, 200 pounds. Rice, 50 pounds. Coffee, parched, 75 pounds. Assorted dried fruits, 200 pounds. Tea, 40 pounds. Sugar, 100 pounds. Beans, 200 pounds. Evaporated vegetables, any large amount. Milk (condensed), i or 2 cases. CLEMENTS^ GUfDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 51 This list can be changed to suit the person taking It. my purpose in giving it being simply to give some idea of the quantity. One expert gives a month's list as follows, the tools he names being for the purpose of making a boat at Lake Bennett and keeping it in repair on the trip : Twenty pounds of flour, with baking powder. Twelve pounds of bacon. Six pounds of beans. Five pounds of dessiccated vegetables. Four pounds of butter. Five pounds of sugar. Four cans of milk. One pound of tea. Three pounds of coffee. Two pounds of salt. Five pounds of corn meal. Pepper, mustard. The following utensils would not be too many : One frying pan. One water kettle. One Yukon stove. One bean pot. Two plates. One drinking cup. One teapot. One knife and fork. One large and one small cooking pan. Gill net for fishing. The following tools are necessary for boat building • One jack plane. One whipsaw. One hand saw. 52 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KI.ONDYKE. One rip sav/. One draw knife. One axe. One hatchet. One pocket knife. Six pounds of assorted nails. Three pounds oakum. Three pounds of pitch. Fifty feet of five-eighths rope. Other necessities would be a tent, a rubber blanket, mosquito netting and matches. It is also desirable to take along a small, well filled medicine chest, a rifle, a trout line and a pair of snow glasses, to provide against snow blindness. The wood working tools taken should include everything needed for almost any kind of rough car- penter work, from the buiMing of a boat or a sled to -the erection of a cabin, the putting in of sluice boxes, hoisting buckets, water flumes, etc. It should be remembered that where a large party goes, one or two complete sets of tools for woodwork will be sufficient. CLOTHING. sn. The equipment in clothing necessarily depends upon the person. A whole clothing store is not necessary. Underwear, both heavy and medium weight, of good quality, is needed, and a most impor- tant matter is the proper covering for the feet. Rubber hip-boots, good woolen socks, strong boots and shoes, are necessary, for much walking will have to be done. There are no street railways in the Klondyke. Two or three heavy sweaters will be found to be worth more than their weight in gold. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDVKE. 53 The miners in that country always adopt to a certain extent the dress of the natives, and in such dress it is not difficult to keep warm. Great range in tempera- ture must be expected. The average temperature in winter is 40 degrees below zero, and it will sometimes vary 40 or 50 degrees in one or two hours. That, of course, adds to the discomfort, but one must go expecting such things. Take a fur robe, eight feet wide by ten feet long, made of skins with a long, light hair, like a fox or lynx or cub bear. A full grown bear's skin is too heavy. These can be bought in San Francisco or Seattle for one third or one fourth the amount that must be paid for them on the Klondyke. Although this is a country of fur bearing animals, the Alaska Commercial and other Trading Companies buy up all the furs from the trappers and natives, so that the miners have no opportunity to obtain them except at exorbitant prices. A good fur robe, however, is invaluable, being worth four pairs of ordinary blankets for warmth and comfort. As advice in regard to clothing varies considerably, I quote herewith from a very practical man. Mr. Brownlie, in an interview, says : ' * I think a great many people are making a mistake in their clothing outfit. One should take as little as possible, as he will need all his strength to carry the necessary provisions and himself over the ' divide.' What he needs are skins and furs, and they can gen- erally be bought to much better advantage in Juneau than anywhere else. When you are out in the snow and ice, woolens and blankets will do you little good. A man should live as much like the Indians as pos- sible. The best protection against the cold is a bag 54 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. made of skin, thoroughly oiled, large enough to hold a man. " A man can get into such a bag and draw it tightly about his neck, having his head covered with furs, and he can pass a fairly comfortable night, half-buried in the snow.' ' Remember also to take needles and thread. A good rifle of large caliber and a revolver using the same size cartridge will, of course, be taken, for game is plentiful. MEDICINES. It is well to be provided with a small medicine chest well filled with all the simpler forms of medicine, ban- dages, surgical needles, etc. One never knows what may happen, and it is well to be personally provided. Any reputable druggist will put up such a chest, with remedies for colds, coughs, chilblains, diarrhcea, con- stipation and the like, and, as scurvey sometimes seems to claim quite a number of victims, it is well to have a good supply of a blood purifier and an anti- scorlentic. Lime juice is a good preventive of scurvey and a few bottles will always come in useful. POWDER FOR BLASTING. In none of the published lists that I have seen has blasting powder been mentioned. My experience, however, assure." me that it would be a great help to the miner, "nd that every outfit ought to have at least two hundred or three h. 'idred pounds, with the necessary hammers and di il- for drilling, as well as a sufficient quantity of f'.i'^e. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 55 PREPARE FOR THE MOSQUITOES. Read what I have said about the mosquitoes in summer time earlier in these pages, and then decide for yourself. Some use the ordinary mosquito netting, and no doubt all persons will, some time or another, find it useful. Others have had helmets of very fine copper wire netting made to fit over a broad brimmed hat — not too heavy an one — and a black cloth bottom to it which is placed over the chest and shoulders between the undershirt and overshirt. Ir- ^is way perfect freedom of movement is allowed to the head and shoulders, and yet the pest cannot crawl in under- neath the netting. In this matter, however, as in all ethers, each person must decide for himself how to meet the pests. Do not allow yourself to think, though, that the mosquitoes are a trifling matter, to be lightly passed by. As someone has written : " The Yukon mosquito is king of his tribe. He actually hunts and kills bears along that mighty river. This is told and pictured by no less an authority than Lieut. Schwatka in his well-known published account of his exploration of the Yukon a number of years ago. Bears under stress of hunger sometimes come down to the river in mosquito season, and are attacked by swarms of insects, which sting them about the eyes so that they go blind and die of starva- tion. A prominent Yukon miner said that the mos- quito had been known to bite through a thick moose skin mitten." PRPCE OF OUTFIT. A complete outfit will cost between $750 and $1000. Don't go into that country without at least $500, or more. 56 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. i The entire outfit can be obtained in Juneau, where one can be sure of getting just what is needed, without any extra weight, which is a matter of great import- ance, as many hard portages are to be encountered on the trip. Hitherto prices in Juneau have been reason- able. Of course one cannot say what may be the re- sult of the present rush in the way of raising prices. These lists ought to give a thoughtful man a fair idea as to what he should take to be safe. I would advise that, at present, these supplies be purchased at Seattle, or inquiries made of reliable parties there to find out whether they can surely be obtained at Juneau. When we purchased, we found the prices for food, clothing and mining supplies about the same at Juneau and Seattle as in San Francisco, and, in purchasing at the former places, the trouble and expense of shipping so far is avoided. Of course it is quite possible that now these things can be purchased on the Klondyke, but prices no doubt would be very high. I bought shovels at Dawson and paid $17.00 each for them, and picks at $8.00. FRAUDS IN OUTFITTING. In making your purchases, be sure and visit some reputable tradesman in whatever city you purchase. Beware of slop-shops, frauds and bogus outfitters. Many a merchant in San Francisco and along Puget Sound is getting rich selling prospective miners bogus outfits, and they might as well steal their victims' money. The poor, green tenderfoot who knows not what he needs, is gathered in and induced to buy a vast amo'.int of goods for which he has no earthly use, and which he will throw away before he crosses the CLEMENTS^ GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. hi pass. The goods are of an inferior quality and the poor fellow is started on the journey in almost as bad a fix as if he had nothing. I suppose there is no way of stopping this traffic, but it will cause untold suifer- ing to hundreds. ACTUAL PRICES PAID AT DAWSON CITY. The following is a recent list published, giving the prices of a general store in Dawson City : Flour, per loo pounds |i2 qq Moose ham, per pound i o^ Caribou meat, per pound 5^ Beans, per pound ^^ Rice, per pound Sugar, per pound ~ Bacon, per pound Butter, per roll i tq Eggs, per dozen ^ Better eggs, per dozen 2 00 Salmon, each j/ to ^ ^^ Potatoes, per pound Turnips, per pound Tea, per pound ^ ^^ r^ re I 00 Cottee, per pound Dried fruits, per pound Canned fruits . . 50 Canned meats Lemons, each ^ „ 20 Oranges, each Tobacco, per pound j Liquors, per drink Shovels ^ Picks '50 ' 5 00 58 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. Q,r -«1 oil, per gallon i oo Overalls i 50 Underwear, per suit $5 to 7 50 Shoes 5 00 Rubber boots $10 to 15 00 Another list of prices paid may be useful, as show- ing amounts actually expended in August, 1897, at Circle City, Alaska. This outfit was ordered by C. A. Be van, of Iowa, an experienced miner, and copied by his courtesy, from the original, by Palmer Henderson : io sacks flour at $5 % 50 00 Jiacon, 120 lbs 48 00 Beans, 2 sks 19 25 Dried peas i sk., 50 lbs 10 00 Rice, I sk . , 50 lbs 10 00 Rolled oats, 5 sks., 50 lbs 5 50 Sugar, I sk., 50 lbs. 20 00 Lard, 1 case, 60 lbs 18 00 Peaches, i bx. , 25 lbs 7 50 Apples, I bx., 25 lbs 7 50 Prunes, i bx., 25 lbs 7 50 Raisins, 2 bxs. , 20 lbs 2 50 Dried potatoes, i bx., 25 lbs Dried onions, 5 cans, 5 lbs. . 5 00 Dried cabbage, 5 cans, 5 lbs 3 75 Baking powder, 5 cans, 5 lbs 5 00 Butter, 25 rolls, 50 lbs 25 00 Eagle milk, i case 48 lbs 20 00 Candles, i box, 25 lbs 6 00 Coffee, 20 lbs 10 00 Tea, 5 lbs 5 00 Salt, 2 sks. , 10 lbs i 00 Pepper, 4 cans, i lb 2 00 Mustard, 2 cans, i lb 2 00 v^^\ OR!" CLEMENTS^ GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE, 59 Mixed pickles, 4 jars, i gal. \^ Tomatoes, i case, 72 lbs r^ ' 12 00 Corn, I case, .-« lbs g Corned beef, 1:, cans, 24 lbs . .... 5 ^^ Sausage, 12 cans, 24 lbs ^ Vinegar, 3^ gal. 5 lbs ..'.'. °° Maple syrup, % gal. 5 lbs " . .' ^ .^ Toilet soap, 12 bars, 6 lbs ' .' ^ ^^ Uundry soap, 12 bars, 12 lbs. . . . j Matches, 8 bunches ^ Seal smoking tobacco, i butt, 10 lbs re ^ Oil, 5 gals. 40 lbs ■■■ ^ °° 2 picks. . . ^ ° „ , , 12 GO 2 shovels 1 gold pan ^ °° 2 GO ■ 2 pairs gum boots. 24 OG 2 pairs overalls . . s 00 1 suit mackinaw. ro oG SUMMER. 2 pairs gum boots . . , 24 OG 1 pair shoes 2 pairs overalls. . Hat '^^'^^^^'^'''^^. ' °° Mosquito net. . 3 00 WTNTKR. Caribou or rabbit robe Wolf or lynx robe . 1 . ^..^^ . ( roG go) Mittens, 3 pairs, at $2.50 ^ Moccasins, 5 pairs at $1.50 " " ' Waterboots, i pair Cap .;;; 3°° Drill poncho ^ ^° Fur poncho '^ °° Underwear for year ■* 25 GO Tl 60 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. Diusmore's bedding, including pillow for traveling, weight 6^ pounds, explained my boyhood's wonder how a man could take up his bed and walk. From these lists it will be seen that prices vary, and a man must decide for himself when, where and how he will outfit. The state of his purse, his object in going, the length of his stay, the amount of time he can spend going in, and other considerations will influence him in his decisions. I have given my sug- gestions and advice to the ordinary miner, who has money enough to pro ide all be will need for business and comfort. DETEniNATION OF ROUTE. This is one of the most important matters, and yet one of the most difficult, both to advise about and to decide upon. As my narrative in the earlier pages states I went in by the Chilkoot Pass, and, in spite of all the difficulties and dangers, I am incHned to think it is the best and safest route, as it certainly is the quickest. But each man must decide for himself. When I returned I came down the Yukon to St. Michaels, and, therefore, I am familiar with that way out. These two routes are the only ones I know per- sonally. I will give here, however, a few statements in regard to other routes which, while I do not guar- antee through personal knowledge, I think may be relied upon. The wisest plan, however, for the prospective traveler to follow, will be to investigate the condition of the various routes a month or so previous to the date of his starting. Thus he will gain the latest in- formation. The fact that so many people are anxious CLEMEN7S' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. (U to go the Gold Fields, undoubtedly will lead to the improvement of present routes or the opening of new ones before the Spring of 1898, so that descriptions given now of the states of the various routes may be entirely changed by the time my readers are ready to go. THE SKAQUAY PASS. Last August the Skaguay Pass was impassable. At that time the New York World sent out Sylvester Scovel with full instructions to blast out the pass and make it reasonably accessible. Skaguay, then, was a wretched place, muddy with the continuous rains and crowded with people vainly trying to cross the impass- able mountains. The town was built in a hurry, of rough lumber, tents, and the like, to accommodate these travelers, and is situate near the shore and almost surrounded by high mountains. As one man describes it : " It is in a pit, made by these towering mountains, which break the clouds so that the rain pours upon us in a perfect deluge." The same writer, in a letter dated August 28, 1897, thus describes the labor of getting over the pass : "There is a tremendous press of men, horses, mules, donkeys, and bullocks, passing over the trail, or mountains. Two rivers to ford and a terrible bad and muddy pass to get over. Every night some of the men who are packing over the pass come into Skaguay for a day or two of rest. They say it is mighty hard work to pack more than fifty pounds on their back and one hundred and fifty pounds on a horse. For packing over the pass, a distance of six miles, packers receive nine cents per pound. In the first place, they i t 62 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. r take the baggage and provisions up to the pass, a dis- tance of three miles in carts. These carts are of ho- le construction and resemble small hand carts. Two poles are attached for shafts, between which a horse is hitched. One man, with a pack on his back, leads the animal while another guides the shafts from behind. It is the greatest fun in the place to watch the funny ways in which everyone attempts to have his baggage and stuff taken away or stored in a tent. " Mr. R. H. Stretch, a mining engineer of Seattle, thus reported on the Skaguay Trail, after a thirty days' examination. His report is dated September 6, 1897: "Skaguay Valley was once- occupied by a huge glacier. Near the lower end the rocks are ancient sedimentary or stratified deposits, with innumerable dikes and stringers of granitic aspect, but all the upper portions of the vallej'^ and the summit of the range are nothing but a very coarse granite, without any trace of any structure, but with very strongly- marked nearly horizontal bedding planes, cut by nearly vertical cleavage joints. The action of the ice, which formerly plowed its way down the valley, has ground these rocks to polished surfaces, the vertical faces supporting only a few lichens ; while the hori- zontal benches, before the advent of the gold-seekers, were covered with a thick carpet of moss and lichens, which, though with but a very frail hold on the rocks, gave a sure and satisfactory foothold. " In few places are there pebbles or boulders, and but few rock slides, but where these do exist, the in- dividual boulders are so large and massed so irregu- larly that travel over them is more difficult than over the solid unbroken benches. Of earth there is prac- CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 63 tically none, but in the course of ages a black vegetable deposit has accumulated iu some of the crevices and in potholes along the river bottom. Scrubby timber, spruce, birch and alder, finds a foothold in the crevices, the latter chiefly in the wetter bottoms, and over such material the trail finds its way. ' ' Distances from Skaguay are : First crossing of river, one and one-half miles ; end of road, three and one-half miles ; small lake, five miles ; Porcupine Creek, seven and one-half miles ; second crossing of river bridge, eleven and one-half miles; third crossing of river bridge, thirteen and one half miles; fourth cross- ing of river bridge, fourteen and one-half miles ; fifth crossing of river, ford, seventeen and one-half miles; summit, nineteen miles ; Meadows, twenty-six miles ; Lake Bennett, forty- two miles. " Five miles out at the lake the elevation is four hundred and sixty feet. The trail quickly ascends to eight hundred and ten feet, then sinks to four hun- dred and seventy at Porcupine Creek. In a short dis- tance the elevation is 1,400, and the patch zigzags down to the second crossing, 1,000 feet elevation. The fourth bridge is 1,400 feet above the vSea, and the trail almost at once goes upward to 2,100 feet. A descent is then made to the ford, 1,800 feet high, and then comes the climb to the summit, an elevation of 2,600 feet. From this point to the lakes the trail is not extremely difficult." Mr. Stretch says there is no danger to human life in making the trip. THE WHITE PASS. Five miles below Dyea, at the head of the Lynn Canal, and about eighty-five miles north of Juneau is 64 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. Skaguay bay, where the landing is made for the White Pass. This bay is a fine natural harbor, and ships of the largest size can steam into it and find good anchorage. From the harbor the trail follows the vSkaguay river to its head, which is near the summit of the pass, a distance of sixteen miles. The first tour miles are in the bed of the river and the ascent is gradual. At four miles the canyon is reached, and here the route becomes more difficult. For seven miles the trail works its way along the mountain side rising steadily for almost the entire distance. This is the only hard part of the route. The next three miles is a gentle rise, and they carry the trail to the summit, an elevation of 2,600 feet above the sea level. The country here broadens out into a valley five miles wide, having a gentle slope to the east. In the twenty miles between the summit and Windy Arm, or Tagish lake, the total descent is only 340 feet. From the summit, valleys also extend to Lindeman lake and Taku arm on Tagish lake. CHIL KAT PASS. About one hundred and twenty-five miles from the head of the Chilkat Inlet, brings the traveler to the Tahkeena River. " This was the old trail used by the Indians to and from the interior and leads all the way through to old Fort Selkirk by land. Jack Dal ton has used this trail at times in taking horses to the interior, portaging to the Tahkeena, then by raft down that river to the Lewes, thus proving that the Tah- keena is navigable for a small stern-wheel steamer for a distance of some seventy miles." * • Kroni Wilsou's Guide to the Yukon, published by the Calvert Co., Seattle. Wash. Dawson Citv. Alaska. St. Michaels, Alaska. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDIKE, r.5 THE TAKU ROUTE. There has been some talk of a route being under- taken by the Canadian Government to open up the country beyond the Coast Range from Taku, which is full of timber and good grazing land. This route would lead up the Taku Inlet to the Coast Range, thence by a low pass, a distance of about eighty-five miles, to waters running into Lake Teslin; thence across this body of water and down the Hootalinqua River. All the dangerous places encountered on the Chilkoot route, as Windy Arm, the Grand Canyon, the White Horse Rapids, etc, would be avoided by following this route, except the Five Finger Rapids, which, as I have shown, need not be greatly feared. THE STICKINE RIVER ROUTE. Another route is the proposed Stickine River route, somewhat similar to the Taku route, which one writer speaks most highly of. By this route one would go to Fort Wrangle from Seattle or San Fran- cii^co, theice up the Stickine River, a distance of one hundred and forty miles to Telegraph Creek. From this point an overland journey of ninety miles must be made to the head of Lake Teslin, and thence down the Hootalinqua to the Yukon. THE COPPER RIVER ROUTE- 1 have been asked many questions about this route and the following is all the information I am able to give. This I have gleaned in conversation, mainly with the Indians and traders. The statement has been made that the Indians do not desire the white m CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLQNDYKE. man in their lerritory, and confirmation is offered in the shape of a tragic story of three or four prospectors having been murdered by them. But on questioning the Indians they repudiate the idea of their having caused the death of a single white man, and say they want the white miners to go and have a trading post established. Thev bring in big chunks of copper that seem as if cut from a large brdy with an axe, and they say there is " Hi-u " — plenty of it, as well as " Hi-u Gold." They offer to guide white men to the de- posits. There is an Indian trail across from Forty-Mile Post to the head of Copper River. From Lt. Allen's Reconaissance of the Copper River, made to the Secretary of War, in 1885, I learn that it would be impossible for any party to go to the Klondyke by this route depending upon the river as a means of traveling. In a number of places boats would have to be totally abandoned, long and ardu- ous portages made, passes climbed and new boat.s built for a continuation of the trip. No person should attempt this route until he has read L,t. Allen's report. HACKENZIE RIVER ROUTE. The Chicago Inter-Ocean of September 14, 1897, contained a map with description of a route which might be taken from Calgary, a point on the Canadian Pacific main line, connecting with Edmonton, a town at the terminus of a small branch line. By this route one would go by wagon trom Edmoi.ton — a four day's journey — to Athabasca, landing on the Athabasca River. From this point ^ae trip can be made the whole way by water — with the exception r '" a few short CLEMKXTS' GUIDE TO THE KLOXDYKE. kM portages, — down the Atliabaska, Slave and Mackenzie Riv'ers to where the Porcupine flows very near. Here a half mile portage transfers the boats from the Mac- kenzie to the Porcupine, and four hundred miles down this river brings one to Foi ; Yukon, o'l the Yukon River, where Dawson City, though three hundred miles away, seems very near. This route is 3,000 miles from Athabasca, but is recommended as a safe, convenient and pleasant route at all seasons of the year. To one contemplating journeying this way the better plan would be to write to the Inter-Ocean, Chi- cago, and ask for the latest particulars in regard to it. THE YUKON RIVER ROUTR. This is the easiest of all the routes, but it is the longest way around, and it can only be taken after the ice has left the mouth of the river in June. From San Kranci.sro to St. Michaels, a small island in the Behring Sea, is 2,871 miles ; from Seattle 2,174 miles, and iVom Juneau 2,150 miles. Then from St. Michaels up the Yukon is about 1897 miles. St. Michaels is not at the mouth of the Yukon, as .so many people imaginCi but is north of it. For many years it has been a trading post, the Alaska Commer- cial Company having an establishment there, and the North American Trading and Transportation Com- pany also. Both companies carry large and well selected stocks of goods, the former being the old trading company, and the latter the new and progres- sive company, whose river boats, the P. B. Weare, John Cudahy, C I[. Hamilton, J. J. Healy, T. C. Power, and Klondyke will convey passengers from St. Michaels to the Klondyke region as soon as the 68 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 4. Spring of 1898 opens. The Alaska Commercial Com- pany also has its boats, one of which, the Arctic has done good service on the Yukon for some years. The trip from St. Michaels to the mouth of the Yukon is very interesting. "Many noted points are passed and active volcanoes seen. Wild fowl, fur seal, wal- rus and whale can be observed from the ship's deck almost any day. The curio seeker can reap a rich harvest, for few who visit this country have time or inclination to indulge in the collection of specimens. The Indians about St. Michaels are very ingenious and industrious."* They have great faculty in carving ivory upon which all the events of their lives are vividly portrayed. ' .' TH»2 CHILKOOT PASS. This, though the shortest pass to traverse, is the highest, being one thousand feet higher than any of the others. It is the pass, however, I prefer, and by which I expect to return to the gold fields. Starting at Dyea, where the North American Trading and Transportation Compa y has a large store, it follows the Dyea river for about eight miles. Then it enters the canyon, which is followed up to Sheep Camp, This is on the timber line and from there on to the summit the scene is one of extreme desolation. No vvjgetation of any kind can be seen for miles around the summit, and glaciers abound. The total length of the trail from Dyea to Lake Lindeman is about twenty-five miles. The complete journey by this route has already been outlined in my personal narra- tive and will be still further explained in the following pages. ♦ From Wilson's Giiiile to the Yukon. CLHME.Xry CI' IDE TO THE KI.ONDYKE. G!) WHEN TO START. T4 1 L It is an important matter to decide when to start. is a common thing to read of people haviii«: to W'iit at Sheep Camp a month for an opportunity to cross the summit. James Brownhe thinks the best time to leave San Francisco is early in February, or not later than the middle of the month, arriving at Sheep Camp early in March, when there ought to be no difficulty in getting over the Pass. But .seasons differ, and in one year March might be the best pos- sible time, and another, the worst. But certain it is that in the dead of winter it is almost suicide to attempt to cross the pass, and in the late Spring the thaw .sets in and makes traveling dangerous from avalanches and such accidents as the one recently described in the newspapers as occi\rriug at Sheep Camp by a fall of snow, boulders and ice. In summer the heat is so inten.se and the boulders and tree roots so difficult to get over that it is not wise to attempt the trip at this season. Another advantage of an early spring start is that the lakes and streams are nearly all frozen over. This makes sledding possible for many miles in cro.ss- ing the lakes before the open water is reached, and this is generally much easier than rowing, especially when the wind is so that a sail can be hoisted. Therefore, to tho.se who wi.sh to go over the Chil- koot Pass I would say : Start .so as to reach Sheep Camp some time in March— the earlier in the month the better ; and to those who wish lO go down the Yukon from St. Mif^hriels : Start en the steamer that will connect with the first river lH)at, but don't lie 70 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO Til 11 KLONDYKE. disappointed if you have to wait awhile for the break- ing up of the ice. The starting time for the other routes must be determined by circumstances, if there are any of my readers who contemplate going by any one of them THE STAJ^T. Outfit provided or arranged for, route determined upon, ticket ol)tained, the traveler is ready for the journey. It is my purpose under this heading to give my reader something to occupy his mind while on the steamer, and thus help to relieve the monotony of an ocean journey. A caution or two may not be out of place and a little information in regard to the mineral resources of the Yukon region, the game to be found and the min- ing laws in existence will enable the traveler better to understand the country than if he arrives there without this knowledge. It is well to avoid forming fast associations or part- nerships on the journey with strangers of whom you know nothing. Wait until you have some knowledge of the character of a man before you associate your- self with him in any undertaking. There will be lots of sharpers and rogues going to the Klondyke as soon as spring opens, and they will be on the lookout for every person they can victimize. So a little caution will not be exercised in vain. i CLEMENTS' CVIDE TO THE k'LOXDVk'E. 71 BOr-JS niNINQ CLAinS. Another thing it is well for every man to beware o^ and to have well fixed in mind. Beware of bop^vis mining claims. The sharper with the alleged mining stock for sale is getting in his work and many a mm who cannot go to Alaska is parting witli his money for shares of stock in mines which have no existence. Of course there are many of the claims which have been sold which are really worth the money and more, but I would say to a prospective purchaser. Be care- ful. Bu}' from a reputable, responsible person, if at all. Don't gobble up cheap stock, either before you start, on the way, or after you arrive at the Klondyke Know what you are doing before you part with a cent, or agree either verbally or in writing to make any purchase. A little delay, and a little extra cau- tion will certainly not do any harm and it may save the impulsive and unwary man from being swindled of all he has, by unprincipled sharpers. TRADING COnPANIES. The Alaska Commercial Company and the North American Trading and Transportation Company, at present occupy the field. But there will undoubtedly be a great opening for large companie;. if the gold regions con titiue to give forth their precious metal. If companies of great financial strength should engage in bu.sniess, they could soon command a large and profitable trade, as competition is always healthy and desirable. 72 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. I ■ THE FORMATION OF MINING COMPANIES. The mining laws of the Northwest Territory of Canada are not favorable to organizations formed for working claims, as each miner is not only allowed but one claim in each district, but, should he dispose of this one, he cannot locate another one in the same dis- trict in the future. The area of the districts varies, the size depending mostly on adaptable natural boun- daries, such as mountain chains, rivers and creeks. THE MINERAL RESOURCES. Of the gold resources of the Klondyke region much has been written and much more .said. There is no doubt that the country contains vast quantities of gold, as yet uncovered. There are large areas that have never yet been pros- pected both on the American and the Canadian sides, and many men will be as fortunate as we have been. But it is almost equally certain that many will pros- pect in vain. Gold, however, is not the only mineral resource of the Klondyke region and of Alaska in general. As I have said, in speaking of the Copper River Route, there are wonderful deposits of copper all through that region, and in many parts of Alaska. The vast demand for this metal makes copper properties almost as valuable as gold, if the deposit is rich aiid easily accessible. Hence some wise prospector will devote his time and attention to copper, and gain just as much wealth as if he prospected for the more valuable metal. The coal deposits of Alaska arc destined ere long ! I CLEMENTS' CriDE TO THE KI.ONDYk'E. 78 to be exceedingly valuable to the Pacific Coast. There are vast beds, and the country itself, with its fast in- creasing population, can use up a large amount. Few people are aware that on Kl Dorado Creek 'he wood used in thawing out our ground cost us about $300 a cord. Imagine the value coal would have to us with wood at such a price, and as the raining regions increase in size the demand for coal as fuel will become imperious. Hence money is to be made by some one in controling and distributing the coal of the country. Of the iron, platinum and otlie*" valuable minerals, various reports are made, and it is unquestionable that, some day, the va.st deposits that exist will be utilized- THE QAHE OF THE YUKON. "g As yet, the whole Yukon basin is almost a virgin field for the hunter. The few Indians of the region do not kill the game as fast as it increases, so that the hunter and fisherman have good prospects of fine sport ahead of them. The moose is abimdant. In summer some of them have a wonderful spread of horns and grow to a weight of 1,500 pounds. When fat its flesh is always tender and palatable, and as it is not a dainty eater, and can obtain food even in the deep snow time, it is generally fat, even in the early spring. The skins are coarse and l^rown when tanned, and are used '.)y the Indians for gloves, moccasins and cloth- ing and even for their lodges. The moose, unlike other ruminants, is a fighter, and the female, single- handed, will protect her young from a whole pack of wolves, and the bull, in the fall, is an ugly customer, even for the hunter to tackle. 74 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. From that admirable and reliable work, V. Wilson's Guide to the Yukon, published by the Calvert Com- pany, Seattle, and that every traveler to this region should possess, I extract the following information in regard to the game and fish of the Yukon : " The woodland caribou is found throughout the lake and upper river country. It averages nearly twice the size of the barren land caribou or reindeer and its habits are also quite different. It never mi- grates toward the north in summer, but travels directly the opposite way. The caribou here have great pow- ers of endurance, and can trot at a gait equal to that of the; best horse. In deep snow it is almost useless to pursue them, their wide, flat hoofs and the manner in which they spread them, enabling them to keep quite on top of the snow. They are much more stronglj'^ built than the barren land caribou and the horns are much stronger and rounder. This species is almost untamable and shows no inclination to work like their cousins in the Bald hills. "The barren land caribou or arctic reindeer, altogether different from the woodland caribou, occu- pies the barren hills near the Arctic circle, where food is so scarce that it is constantly on the move, having to migrate to the south in winter. In the severest winters its range is many hundred miles in that direc- tion. While it and the woodland caribou were origi- nally of one species, its mode of living differs so widely from its cousin that its habits and appearance have changed until it can no longer be considered a very near relative to the noble monarch of the woods, that leads a life of perfect idleness and plenty in the rich, pine-clad lands to the south. It is not to be wondered that with their decrease in size their manner CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYk'E. 75 and temper have also changed, and that, with a little coaxing, they readily become beasts of burden. When the time comes for the dogs to give way to their more favored successors, everybody in this great country will rejoice. The past five winters about Forty-Mile Creek have been unusually severe, and great herds have ranged further south than usual. It is estimated that no less than five thousand were killed last year in this vicinity. The herds are reported to numl)er hun- dreds of thousands. Their horns, which are counted by the hundreds on the Bald Hills, are more slender and have a much greater spread than the woodland caribou ; thus causing them little difficulty in ranging the sparsely wooded country. All are provided with the snow shovel, reaching quite down to the point of the nose, to assist them in procuring the reindeer moss and lichens in the country they inhabit. This is undoubtedly the reason why the female as well as the male, is provided with antlers. The endurance of these animals, if not over estimated, is wonderful, and the ease with which they make long journeys through deep snow or over the soggy moss of this country would well fit them for the sleigh or freighter. " There are many species of bear in Alaska, and probably the St. Elias grizzly attains a greater size than any other bear in the world. If he is not a fighter he is certainly not a coward. This bear is found in the St. Elias Alps and many of the ranges of Alaska, but is more common in the high ranges of mountains east of the Yukon River, below Sixty-Mile Creek. On the Klondyke River they are so numerous as to prevent the Indians from hunting there when fish are plenty. This bear, like the whole bear family. 76 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. is a great fish eater. It is during the fish season only that this bear leaves its haunts in the high mountains for the lowlands. It likes variety and is more of a meat eater than its less dignified brother, the brown bear. Several men who have come in contact with this bear remember it to the extent of a leg or arm, and even think themselves lucky to escape with their lives. Some of the skins of this bear are enormous in size, and one skull I examined was beyond compari- son with anything in the bear line I have ever seen. The St. Elias grizzly when young looks almost white at a distance.' It stands higher than other bear and is wary, even in this remote region, beyond any animal I have ever hunted. On the other hand, the brown and black bear of this region are easily approached, and especially when nosing along the banks of streams searching for food. In one case we actually ran our boat within thirty feet of one on a clear morning, while our portable stove was yet burning, having cooked breakfast in the boat. "Mountain Goat. — This animal, while probably smaller than the Rocky mountain goat further south, is identical. Its weight will average, perhaps, one hundred pounds, and both sexes have horns. Its home is on the cloud-swept peaks, surrounded by Nature's solitudes, and it seems most content in its gloomy surroundings, where the thunderbolt goes crashing down the rugged sides of the canypn, or where the steeps are swept by the mighty avalanche. Its coat is well adapted to its rugged home. Under the long outer hair a fleecy wool protects it in its wonderful leaps from rock to rock. Its legs are straight and stiff and its horns are black. The pelt makes fine robes and is much prized by the Indians. M\ CLEMENTS' (iUIDE 10 THE k/.0\/))hE. 77 Mountain Shkkt. — This jinimal is found through- out Alaska, being more numerous in the Coast range of mountains than in the interior. It attains a much hirger size than the goat, and a ram may often he found weighing three hundred pounds. It is among the wariest of all hoofed game of the American con- tinent. It is hardly worth the time and trouble that is usually consumed in .securing it. Its coat is of light gray color and some hunters claim a great deli- cacy for its flesh. Lynx.-— The North American lynx is abundant throughout the upper river and lake country. It probably attains a larger size there than in any other part of the continent. It is easily trapped and any rifle kills it readily. Although large and strong, its tenacity of life is far below all other species of the cat family. The pelt is finely furred and makes excellent robes. Its principal food is the rabbit, which abounds throughout that country. Its legs and feet are large and powerful and well covered with hair, giving it rather a clumsy appearance which turns to one of ludicrousness when frightened. At such times the short, stubbed tail stands erect, the back is arched, and with whiskers standing straight out it makes off by a succession of spasmodic jumps in a way that often totally disconcerts even the old hunter. WoL"«ES. — Alaska, like all of North America, is more or less inhabitated by wolves. The gray timber wolf of average size is found there. It is so wary as to be seldom seen by man. It has all the cunning of the fox and like all varieties is a coward, except when found in great numbers. In the interior they are numerous. In parts of the Coast country they exist in such numbers that no deer are found on the IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 545 S56 M IIIIIM m 1^ iiiM 1 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.4 III 1.6 ^s V2 c>^ <^# <-> C? / /, /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 #V f^ (v \ \ '^ ^•b- 6^ «fr. 4^ ^v t<*- % w., 78 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 'I main land along the whole coast, although the islands are exceedingly well stocked with them. Wolverine. — This animal is probably more plenti- ful throughout the upper river and lake sections than any other part of the world. Its peculiar habits and singular appearance are little known even to most naturalists. I cannot recall ever having seen it in captivity. The body is heavy and covered with long hair and fur much prized by the Indians as trimming for their winter garments. Its legs, although short, do not prevent it from making long journeys through deep snow. As there is scarcely any limit to its food capacity, it is continually on the move, yet so wary ard careful that it is seldom .seen. Fish. — While the salmon is by far the most im- portant fish of the Yukon there are many varieties of fine fish, the ever cold water keeping their flesh hard and palatable at all seasons of the year. Probably next to the salmon in importance comes the white fish, of which there are several varieties, some reach- ing a good size. They are found throughout almost the entire river basin , Lake trout of good size are found everywhere in the lake country. A species of fish known to the miner as lake cod, is also found in the lakes. It seems to be a cross between the salmon and white fish, having characteristics of each. It is of good size and rises readily to a troll. Throughout the summ*. " months landlock salmon, similar to those of Maine and Canada, abound in the lakes. Grayling or arctic trout is found in the rivers. It rises readily to a fly, the small black being the best. A small piece of black thread fastened around the hook will answer the purpose. They frequent the mouths of small streams and falls 79 a"ci are found in o-re^. , , and Whffp w^ ^ "umbers aboiit fi.« wiiite Horse rapids. Pij,. ,, ^ ^^^ canyons ^^e lower Hver, while the su ker Tf "T'^^"'^ ^'^^"t Mii.ers provided with gin "T/^ f""^ everywhere. "Starving. Along the rf "^^^ ^^^^^^^^ no fenr of :;^f«" ^---h'^t r L;r.:;^- ;« the ^ -"Bcent to ,.st tbrou^aout The ,w:tr ? " =• '^""P'^- '",W,^a t,^S OP THE VCKON. ^ollowinp- are n tj ^ Koverntnent : "™^'-in-council of th« r- . "le Dominion 'Bard/ ■ "'^"PRETAT.ON. . ^^i"er' shall mean . C'aiu] 'shall mean fi,« "•edgings IS made ^'^^ ^"^ grant of such -"^egal post ' shalJ ; "' °''°'- ^l-o™! or raced to t^ab ;"".'"' ""■ ''"'P <"■ ."^ ose season ■ sl,alj ,„e.,„ m '" '""«'" •■""1 »fae ii-nfied. The period to be 80 CLEMENTS' GLIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. fixed by the gold commissioner in whose district the claim is situated. ' Ivocality ' shall mean the territory along a river (tributary of the Yukon river) and its affluents. • Mineral ' shall include all minerals whatsoever other than coal. NATURE AND SIZE OF CLAIMS. 1. ' Bar diggings,' a strip of land loo feet wide at high water mark and thence extending into the river to its lowest water level. 2. The sides of a claim for bar digging shall be two parallel lines run as nearl)* as possible at right angles to the stream, and shall be marked by four legal posts, one at each end of the claim at or about the edge of the water. One of the posts at high water mark shall be legally marked with the name of the miner and the date upon which the claim was staked. 3. Dry diggings shall be 100 feet square and shall have placed at each of its four corners a legal post, upon one of which shall be legally marked the name of the miner and the date upon which the claim was staked. 4. Creek and river claims shall be 500 feet long, measured in the direction of the general course of the stream, and .shall extend in width from base to base of the hill or bench on each side, but when the hills or benches are less than 100 feet apart the claim may be 100 feet in depth. The sides of the claim shall be two parallel lines run as nearly as possible at right angles to the stream. The sides shall be marked with legal posts at or about the edge of the water and at the rear boun- daries of the claim. One of the legal posts at the stream shall be legibly marked with the nam2 of the miner and the date upon which the claim was staked. 5. Bench claims shall be 100 feet square. 6. In defining the size of claims they shall be measured horizontally, irrespective of inequalities on the surface of the ground. 7. If any person or per'' >ns .shall discover a new mine and such discovery shall be established to the satisfaction of the gold commissioner, a claim for bar diggings 750 feet in length may be granted. m Kn Route from Circle City to the Mines. P^.'.'HiSi.iSi-aSi': Cabin at Kortv-Mile Post, Alaska. CLEMENTS^ GUIDE TO ta^c- A new stratum of anWf^ locality where fh« , f""ferous earth or travel v ^o- In the event of t?,^ i_ ^^- -entry shall not be Lnte^ r ' '" ^^'^ "^^^«^-- been staked by the aonHn ? ^""^ ^ ^^aJ«i which h. a»'a„„„1.u;;7f;7Jf*;5 3ha,l be charged the (i.t year a„d a«- a forfeiture of ,he'd,S*^ "'"'■"'-'« "^ "'^ clai„,7aa,l ever, year, .He e„.:;l:'LCpT^ '^^;;,»is,e. tfrepS '5. No miner shall receive a • e'a.m i„ the san,e local rte'r"' <"»'°--e "-an one mi„i„^ "rr::oirir^~.-»-T.x f:^z-'- - » - Of r it;rr t-eii ""^""""^"'"-"'— .ort.a,eorai,„.eof j 4 82 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. his or their claims, provided such disposal be registered with, and a fee of two dollars paid to the gold commissioner, who shall thereupon give the assignee a certificate in form ' J ' in the schedule hereto. 17. Every miner shall, during the continuance of his grant, have the exclusive right of entry upon his own claim, for the miner-like working thereof, and the construction of a residence thereon, and shall be entitled exclusively to all the proceeds realized therefrom ; but he shall have no surface rights therein; and the gold commissioner may grant to the holders of adjacent claims such right of entry thereon as may be absolutel)' neces- sary for the working of their claims, upon such terms as may to him seem reasonable. He may also grant permits to miners to cut timber thereon for their own use, upon payment of the dues prescribed by the regulations in that behalf 18. Every miner shall be entitled to the use of so much of the water naturally flowing through or past his claim, and not already lawfully appropriated, as shall, in the opinion of the gold commissioner, be necessary for the due working thereof ; and shall be entitled to drain his own claim free of charge. 19. A claim shall be deemed to be abandoned and open to occupation and entry by any person when the same shall have remained unworked on working days by the grantee thereof or by some person on his behalf for the space of seventy-two hours, unless sickness or other reasonable cause be shown to the satisfaction of the gold commissioner, or unless the grantee is absent on leave given by the commissioner, and the gold commissioner upon obtaining evidence satisfactory to himself that this provision is not being complied with may cancel the entry given for a claim. 20. If the land upon which a claim has been located is not the property of the crown it will be necessary for the person who applied for entry to furnish proof that he has acquired from the owner of the land the surface rights before entry can be granted. 21. If the occupier of the lands has not received the patent therefor, the purchase money of the surface rights must be paid to the crown, and a patent of the surface rights will issue to the party who acquired the mining rights. The money so cvHected CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. H:^ ! ■ will either be refunded to the occupier of the laud, when he is entitled to a patent therefor, or will be credited to him on account of payment for land. 22. When the party obtaining the mining rights to lands cannoi make an arrangement with the owner or his agent or the occupant thereof for the acquisition of his surface rights, it shall be lawful for him to give notice to the owner or his agent or the occupier to appoint an arbitrator to act with another arbitrator named by him, in order to award the amount of com- pensation to which the owner or occupant shall be entitled. The notice mentioned in this section shall be according to a form to be obtained upon application from the gold commis- sioner for the district in which the lands in question lie, and shall, when practicable, be personally served on such owner, or his agent, if known, or occupant ; and after reasonable efforts have been made to effect personal service, without success, then such notice shall be served by leaving at, or sending by regi.s- tered letter to, the last place of abode of the owner, agent or occupant. Such notice shall be served on the owner or agent within a period to be rixed by the gold commissioner before the expiration of the time limited in such notice. If the proprietor refuses or declines to appoint an arbitrator, or when, for any other reason, no arbitrator is appointed by the proprietor in the time limited therefor in the notice provided for by this section, the gold commissioner for the district in which the lands in question He, shall, on being satisfied by aflSdavit that such notice has come to the knowledgeof such owner, agent or occu- pant, or that such owner, agent or occupant wilfully evades the service of such notice, or cannot be found, and that reasonable efforts have been made to effect such service, and that the notice was left at the last place of abode of such owner, agent or occu- pant, appoint an arbitrator on his behalf. 23. (a) All the arbitrators appointed under the authority of these regulations shall be sworn before a justice of the peace to the impartial discharge of the duties assigned to them, and they shall forthwith proceed to estimate the reasonable damages which the owner or occupant of such lands, according to their several interests therein, shall sustain by reason of such pros- pecting and mining operations. {b') In estimating such damages, the arbitrators shall deter- ii iH^! !■; i ; !!!• -■ ■ ■ ii-'-rr""rr.ti?niir;iN'-Ba't3;Ciimrnr"fi."i 81 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. mine the value of the land irrespectively of any enhancement therefrom from the existence of minerals therein. (c) In case such arbitrators cannot agree, they may select a third arbitrator, and when two arbitrators cannot agree upon a third arbitrator, the gold commissioner for the district in which the lands in question lie shall select such third arbitrator. [d) The award of any two such arbitrators made in writing shall be final, and shall be filed with the gold commissioner for the district in which the lands lie. In any cases arising for which no provision is made in these regulations, the provisions of the regulations governing the disposal of mineral lands other than coal lands, approved by his excellency the governor in council on the 9th of November 1896, shall apply. Form H. — Application for grant for Placer Mining and Affidavit of Applicant. I, [or we], of hereby apply under the Dominion Mining Regulations, for a grant of a claim for placer mining, as defined in the said regulations, in [Here describe locality] and I [or we] solemely swear : I . That I [or we] have discovered therein a deposit of [here name the metal or mineral.] 1, That I [or we] am [or are] to the best of my [or our] knowledge and belief, the first discoverer [or discovers] of said deposit ; or 3. That the said claim was previously granted to [here name the last grantee], but has remained unworked by the said grantee for not less than 4. That I [or we] am [or are] unaware that the land is other than vacant Dominion land. 5. That I [or we] did, on the day of mark out on the ground in accordance in every particular with the provis- ions of the mining regulations for the Yukon river and its tributaries, the claim for which I [or we] make this applica- tion, and that in so doing I [or we] did not iucroach on any other claim or mining location previously laid out by any other person. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 85 6. That the said claim contains, as nearly as I [or we] could measure or estimate, an area of square feet, and that the description, (and sketch, if any), of this date hereto attached, signed by me [or us] sets [or set] forth in detail, to the best of my [or our] knowledge and ability, its position, form and dimensions, 7. That I [or we] make this application in good faith, to acquire the claim for the sole purpose of mining, to be prose- cuted by myself [or us] or by myself and associates, or by my [or our] assigns. Sworn to before me at this day of 18 [Signature.] I. No. Form I. — Grant for Placer Mining. Department of the Interior. Agency, 18 In consideration of the payment of five dollars, being the fee required by the provisions of the Dominion Mining E.egulations, clauses four and twenty, by (A. B.) of , accompany- ing his [or their] application No. dated 18 , for a mining claim in [here insert description of locality.] The Minister of the Interior hereby grants to the said (A. B.) , for the term of one year from the date hereof, the exclusive right of entry upon the claim [here describe in detail the claim granted] for the miner-like working thereof and the construction of a residence thereon, and the exclusive right to all the proceeds realized therefrom. The said (A. B.) shall be entitled to the use of so much of the water naturally flowing through or past his [or their] claim, and not already lawfully appropriated, as shall be neces- sary for the due working thereof, and to drain his [or their] claim free of charge. This grant does not convey to the said (A. B.) any sur- face rights in the said claim, or any right of ownership in the soil covered by the said claim ; and the said grant shall lapse and be forfeited unless th*^ claim is continuously and in good laith worked by the said (A. B.) or his [or their] asso- ciates. The rights hereby granted are those laid down in the afore- I 1 V ; % 4:. ,'-;i "life 'rn-r-mTrii i iia,i.',ii)Mi 86 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYA'E. said mining regulations, and no more, and are subject to all the provisions of said regulations, whether the same are expressed herein or not, [Signed.] Gold Commissioner. Form J. — Certificate of the Assie^nineut of a Plaor Mining Claim. No. Department of the Interior. Agency, i8 This is to certify that (B. C.) of has [or have] filed an assignment in due form dated i8 , and accom- panied by a registration fee of tv/o dollars, of the grant to (A. B.) of o'" the right to mine in [insert descrip- tion of claim] for one year from the i8 . This certificate entitles the said (B. C.) to all the rights and privileges of the said (A. B.) in respect of the claim assigned, that is to say, to the exclusive right of entry upon the said claim for the miner-like working thereof and the construction of a residence thereon, and the exclusive right to all the proceeds realized therefrom, for the remaiirng portion of the year for which the said claim was granted to the said (A. B.) , that is to say, until the day of 1 8 . The said (B. C.) shall be entitled to the use of so much ot the water naturally flowing through or past his [or their] claim and not already lawfully appropriated, as shall be necessary for the due working thereof, and to drain the claim free of charge. This grant does not convey to the said (B. C.) any surface rights in the said claim, or any right of ownership in the soil covered by the said claim ; and the said grant shall lapse and be forfeited unless the claim is continuously, and in good faith worked by the said (B. C.) or his [or their] associates. The rights hereby granted are those laid down in the Domin- ion Mining Regulations, and no more, and are subject to all the provisions of the said regulations, whether the same are ex- pressed herein or not. Gold Commissioner. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 87 UNITED STATES LAWS. ii' !!! The following syiiop.sis of the United States Mining Laws was prepared for the Chicago T'mes-Herald, by- Mr. Charles M. Walker, and will be ireful to those who wish to settle on the United Spates side of the boundary line : PLACER CLAIM DEFIN^.D. " The term ' placer claim,' as defined by the supreme court of the United States, is : 'Ground within defined boundaries which contains mineral In its earth, sand or gravel ; ground that includes valuable deposits not in place, that is, not fixed in rock, but which are in a loose state, and may in most cases be collected by washing or amalgamation without milling.' Size of Quartz and Filacer Claims. — The manner of locating placer mining claims differs from that of locating claims upon veins or lodes. In locating a vein or lode claim the United States statutes provide that no claim shall extend more than 300 feet on each side of the middle of the vein at the surface, and that no claim shall be limited by mining regula- tions to less than 25 feet on each side of the middle of the vein at the surface. In locating claims called ' placers,' however, the law provides that no location of such claim upon surveyed lands shall include more than twenty acres for each individual claimant. The supreme court, however, has held that one individual can hold as many locations as he can purchase and rely upon his possessory title ; that a separate patent for each location is unnecessary. Proof of Citizenship. — Locators, however, have to show proof of citizenship or intention to beoo^iie citzens. This may be done in the case of an individual by his own affidavit ; in the case of an association incorporated by a number of individuals by the affidavit of their authorized agent, made on his own knowledge or upon information and belief; and in the case of a company organized under the laws of any state or territory, by the filing of a certified copy of the charter or certificate of incorporation. i.:>l.; !M rii 88 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. Patents. — A patent for any land claimed and located may be obtained in the following manner : ' Any person, association or corporation authorized to locate a claim, having claimed and located a piece of land, and who has or have complied with the terms of the law, may file in the proper land office an applica- tion for a patent under oath, showing such compliance, together with a plat and field notes of the claim or claims in common made by or under the direction of the United States surveyor general, showing accurately the boundaries of the claim or claims, which shall be distinctly marked by monuments on the ground, and shall post a copy of such plat, together with a notice of such application for a patent, in a conspicuous place on the land embraced in such a plat, previous to the application for a patent on such plat ; and shall file an afiidavit of at least two persons that such notice has been duly posted, and shall file a copy of the notice in such land office ; and shall there- upon be entitled to a patent to the land in the manner follow- ing : The registrar ot said land office upon the filing of such application, plat, field notes, notices and affidavits, shall publish a notice that such application has been made, for a period of sixty days, in a newspaper to be by him designated, as pub- lished nearest to such claim ; and he shall post such notice in his office for the same period. The claimant at the time of fil- ing such application or at any time thereafter, within sixty days of publication, shall file with the registrar a certificate of the United States surveyor general that $500 worth of labor has been expended or improvements made upon the claim by him- self or grantors ; that the plat is correct, with such further description by reference to natural objects or permanent monu- ments as shall identify the claim and furnish an accurate description to be incorporated in the patent. At the expiration of the sixiy days of publication, the claimant shall file his affi- davit showing that the plat and notice have been posted in a conspicuous place on the claim during such period of publica- tion.' Adverse Claims. — If no adverse claim shall have been filed with the registrar of the land office at the expiration of said sixty days, the claimant is entitled to a patent upon the pay- ment to the proper officer of $5 per acre in the case of a lode claim, and $2.50 per ac;rQ for a placer. M [ CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 89 i The location of a placer claim and keeping possession thereof until a patent shall be issued are subject to local laws and cus- toms. LAWS APPLICABLE TO ALASKA. Many misunderstandings have arisen in regard to the land and mineral laws applicable to Alaska, some of the United States laws being, by explicit enactment, not operative in the district of Alaska. The Comissioner of the General Land Office has recently published a statement which shows that these are the laws applicable to Alaska : (i) The mineral land laws of the United States ; (2) town site laws, which provide for the incorporation of town sites and acquirement of title thereto from the United States Government to the town site Trustees ; (3') the laws providing for trade and manufactures, giving each qualified person 160 acres of land in a square and compact form. The coal land regulations are dis- tinct from the mineral regulations or laws, and the jurisdiction of neither coal laws nor public land laws extends to Alaska, the Territory being expressly excluded by the laws themselves from their operation. The act approved May 17, 1884, provid- ing for civil government for Alaska, has this language as to mines and mining privileges : ' The laws of the United States relating to mining claims and rights incidental thereto shall on and after the passage of this act be in full force and effect in said district of Alaska, subject to such regulations as may be made by the Secretary of the In- terior and approved by the President,' and • parties who have located mines or mining privileges therein, under the United States laws, applicable to the public domain, or have occupied or hnproved or exercised acts of ownership over such claims shall not be disturbed therein, but shall be allowed to perfect titlji by payment so provided for.' There is still more general authority. Without this special authority the act of July 4, 1866, says : ' All valuable mineral deposits in lands belonging to the United States, both surveyed and unscrveyed, are hereby declared to be free and open to exploration and purchase, and lands in which these are found to occupations and purchase by citizens of the United States and by those who have declared an inten- tion to become such under the rules prescribed by law and I!' i ,1 I ! I \ \ ■1 :.• t i ' ' 90 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. C according to local customs or rules of miners in the several mining districts, so far as the same are applicable and not in- consistent with the laws of the United States. ' " CLIMATE. The best information that can be obtained at second hand as to the climate of the Klondyke region is that given by the officials of the Canadian and the United States governments. Mr. William Ogilvie, the Can- adian surveyor, in one of his reports, says : ' After my return there was some fine clear weather in January, but it was exceedingly cold, more than 60 degrees below zero, one night 68.5 degrees, and as I had both my ears pretty badly frozen and could not go out in such cold without having them covered, so that I could not hear the chronometer beat, I could not observe until the end of the month, when we had two fine nights — 29th and 30th — mild enough for me to work.' United States Repokt. — A more exhaustive and complete statement of the climatic conditions of that region is contained in a United States Government report prepared under the direction of the Secretary of Agriculture by Willis L<. Moore, Chief of the Weiither Bureau. He says : ' The climates of the coast and interior of Alaska are alike in many respects, and the differences are in- tensified in this, as perhaps in few other countries, by exceptional physical conditions. The fringe of islands that separates the mainland from the Pacific Ocean, from Dixon Sound north, and also a strip of the main- land for possibly twenty miles back from the sea, fol- lowing the sweep of the coast as it curves to the northv form a tempei zero; the las the m( Sitka i; D. C. 'The world c as to th sant ra abound, days in 'Nort comes n differenc 'Cwiv interior, of the c( gin and Alaska, but relat free fron * In th from 9:3( total ler Rememb above th* great ma niay be e •Weai geodetic s on the . CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 91 northwestward to the western extremity of Alaska, form a distinct climatic division which may be termed temperate Alaska. The temperature rarely falls to zero ; winter does not set in until December i , and by the last of May the snow has disappeared except on the mountains. The mean winter temperature of Sitka is 32.5, but little less than that of Washington, D. C. ' The rainfall of temperate Alaska is notorious the world over, not only as regards the quantity, but also as to the manner of its falling, viz., in long and inces- sant rains and drizzles. Cloud and fog naturally abound, there being on an average but sixty clear days in the year. ' North of the Aleutian Islands the coast climate be- comes more rigorous in winter, but in summer the difference is much less marked. ' Climatr of the Interior. — The climate of the interior, including in that designation practically all of the country except a narrow fringe of coastal mar- gin and the territory before referred to as temperate Alaska, is one of extreme rigor in winter, with a brief but relatively hot summer, especially when the sky is free from cloud. ' In the Klondike region in midwinter the sun rises from 9:30 to 10 A. M., and sets from 2 to 3 p.m., the total length of daylight being about four hours. Remembering that the sun rises but a few degrees above the horizon and that it is wholly obscured on a great many days, the character of the winter months may be easily imagined. ' We are indebted to the United States coast and geodetic survey for a series of six months' observations on the . akon, not far form the present site of the gold ill 'I i 'I i *i ■ if I ii !i I , 1 l!■^5 '■} i ■ liil ; 92 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. discoveries. The observations were made with stan- dard instruments and are wholly reliable. The mean temperature of the months from October, 1889, to April, 1890, both inclusive, are as follows : Degrees. October 33 November 8 December -11 January -17 Degrees. February -15 March 6 April 20 ' The daily mean temperature fell and remained below the freezing point (32 degrees) from Nov. 4, 1889, to April 21, 1890, thus giving 168 days as the length of the closed season of 1889-90, assuming that outdoor operations are controlled by temperature only. The lowest temperatures registered during the winter were 32 degrees below zero in November, 47 below in December, 59 below in January, 55 below in February, 45 below in March, and 26 below in April. The greatest continuous cold occurred in February, 1890, when the daily mean for five consecutive days was 47 degrees below zero. • Has Been Colder in United States. — Greater cold than that here noted has been experienced in the United States for a very short time. In the interior of Alaska the winter sets in as early as September, when snowstorms may be expected in the mountains and passes. Headway during one of those storms is impossible, and the traveler who is overtaken by one of them is indeed fortunate if he escapes with his life. Snowstorms of great severity occur in any month from September to May inclusive. ' The changes of temperature from winter to summer are rapid, owing to the great increase in the length of the day. In May the sun rises at about 3 a. m. and ■ CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 93 sets about 9 p. m. In June it rises about i :30 in the morning and sets at about 10:30 at night, giving about twenty hours of daylight and diffuse twilight the remainder of the time. * The mean summer temperature in the interior doubtless ranges between 60 and 70 degrees, accord- ing to elevation, being highest in the middle and lower Yukon valleys.' " i I I I 1: CLinATE AT THE GOLD FIELDS. These reports refer to the country generally. Mr. Wilson says of the more immediate Klondyke region : ' * The climate in the lake region and dovni to old Fort Yukon, although cold in winter and warm in summer, is verj'' agreeable. The snow in the upper river coun- try never exceeds three or four feet, often barely two. In summer little rain falls except during an occasional thunder storm. The summer season is truly one long dream of sunshine, due to the protection of the high Coast range, which precipitates the ever present humidity of the coast, leaving the interior dry. The general direction of the wind is inland in summer and directly opposite in winter. This is caused by the rising of the hot air of the interior in summer and in winter by the existence of a persistent north wind which easily forces the coast breezes seaward. The winters while cold, are so devoid of humidity that the cold is easily endured, and one suffers less when the thermometer registers forty below than on the coast at zero. " 94 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. C DYEA. The ocean voyage over, the traveler is landed at Dyea, where the real difficulties of the trip begin. A guide is not necessary, unless you happen to be the first person making the trip in the season, for the route is pretty well marked out after one party has crossed. Until the great influx of miners created a town, Dyea was nothing but an Indian village and a trading post. The North American Trading and Transportation Company have had a store there for some time. Indian packers can be engaged here, to pack provisions and outfit over the pass to Lake Lindeman. For the first mile or two the road is fairly good, and if the river is frozen over, there is none of the unpleasantness of wading a cold, icy stream, that those who attempt to cross later in the season experience. The Dyea val- ley is an old river bed, full of huge bowlder:- and deep sand. This passed, the Grand Canyon is reached, a deep cut into the solid walls of the Coast range. This canyon is followed for six miles to Sheep Camp, where the scenery abruptly changes. 5HEEP CAHP. From this point to the summit, fifteen miles, is the most arduous part of the trail. I have seen men v.'ith packs on their barks, fall over backwards, owing to the steepness of the road. Here it was that we, as de- scribed in the earlier pages of this book, used derricks to hoist our supplies from one bench to another. All kinds of devices are followed to reach Ihe summit, but it is to be hoped that before another season opens, sometl of cros melted Two rocks, receive on, cor bad enc If you 2,400 fe througl ture of exertioi well wi carrying On our worthy Camp, s blue ice, We are unless \v is the ca we have It is o country put it in will not is often c on uprig bear-tig h respectec do violen in about in westei i CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. 95 something will be done to lighten the fearful labors of crossing. In the later spring, when the snow has melted the difficulties are increased. Two miles below the summit are some overhanging rocks, which, affording shelter from storms, have received the name of Stone House, and from this point on, comes the tug of war. The first mile and a half are bad enough, but the last half mile is true Alpine work. If you are carrying a load, so much the harder. The 2,400 feet climb from Stone House to the summit, through the snow, or in the summer, through a mix- ture of slush and rocks, is about the hardest physical exertion one meets on the trip. We reach the top well winded, tired and relieved. If we have been carrying a heavy pack we lay it down and take a rest. On our way up we have passed two or three note- worthy glaciers, — one a short distance above Sheep Camp, and the other as we near the summit, a wall of ]:)lue ice, towering a thousand feet above the pass. We are not going to meet such another piece of road, unless we are trying to do our own packing. If this is the case we must go back and bring up the goods we have left behind. It is often necessary in making journeys in this country to cache part of our outfit, that is to say, to put it in a place where it is covered up, so that animals will not devour it. Over in the timbered regions this is often done by building a receptacle of logs, mounted on uprights, high above the groundling vermin and bear-tight. Articles so cached are almost invariably respected, both by whites and Indians, he who would do violence to a cache being looked upon, by Yukoners, in about the same light that a horse-thief is regarded in western Texas. •II 96 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDYKE. After leaving the summit there is a sheer descent of five hundred feet to the bed of Crater lyake. The water has cut a small canyon down the mountain side, which should be followed to Lake Lindeman. When snow lines the mountain side, this nine miles trip is an easy one, and after the steep climb to the summit is a welcome change. WHERE TO STOP FOR THE NIGHT. In deciding where to make a night camp several things should be considered. Try to find a good sheltered spot, where winds will not disturb you, or storms hem you in, should they come up, and as plenty of wood for fires is almost a necessity, try and stop where plenty of timber is to be had. It is always best to stop early in the afternoon and resume the journey in the early morning, than to travel until late, make a late camp, where no choice can be had, go to sleep under such disadvantages and wake unrefreshed in the morning to make a late start. A little thought given to camping spots will be well repaid in the additional comforts enjoyed, and hard- ships escaped. LAKE LINDEflAN. Here the journey down the chain of lakes and rivers which finally leads to the Klondyke begins, and to one who carefully follows my narrative, little if anything further need be said, d- lers )ne be O ff en cS ■r ng y . f-'.; •w -* ;«-j -^S;,. ' t'-Txv A f CHII,KOOT PASS. CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE KLONDVKE. 97 BOAT BUILDING. In building your boat, be sure that it is strong and secure, with an extra thick bottom. Wilson's boat was built of five-eighth boards, twenty-two feet long and well braced with one and three-quarter inch tim- bers nailed and clinched with wire nails. It carried about nine hundred pounds of outfit besides themselves. Mr. Brownlie's advice in this matter is as follows : *' The idea seems to be prevalent that you must build your boat as soon as you get over the 'divide, ' either at Lake Lindeman or Lake Bennett. If I were going to make the trip I should do nothing of the kind. By leaving San Francisco in early February, not later than the middle of the month, you can, in all proba- bility, get over the * divide ' without trouble early in March. At that time of the year the lakes and streams are nearly all frozen, and a person can get as far as' the foot of Lake Labarge before the ice begins to break up. It is much easier to travel over the ice than through the lakes in a boat, besides you can go much faster, for in many places you can stick up a sail on your sled and go skimming over the surface at a very rapid speed. I know of one party that got as far as Fort Selkirk in that manner before the ice broke. At any rate I would go as far as I could in that way, and then I would build my boat. It does not require an expert boat builder to do this, but it was about the hardest work I did on the whole trip. "You can't scoop a canoe out of a big log as the Indians do, because a white man, without he has had years of experience in that sort of thing, would tip a canoe over the moment he got into it, and if he didn't do that he would fall out at the first rapids he 98 CLEMENTS' GUIDE TO THE k'LONDYKE. Struck. The only way to do is to get out on the bank of the stream or lake and select a fir tree large enough to give lumber the desired size. You will not get verj' far from the water because the undergrowth is so thick in most places that a dog can't get through. And I want to say right here that this talk about footing it all the way is absurd. Yon must go in a boat or on the ice. The timber is so heavy and the undergrowth so rank that a man couldn't walk from Lake L,inde- man to Sixty-Mile in a hundred years. Bf . building is a necessity. After you've cut down yo r tree and trimmed off the branches and sawed the trunk into the length you want your boards, then you've got to build a sort of roll-way and get the tree up off the ground four or five feet, so as to be able to saw it. Then you have about a week 'shard work whip- sawing the lumber out. The timber is green, and after half dozen pulls at the saw you've got to stop and drive a wedge to keep the saw from getting stuck. " The boat should be built as strong as it can be made, and the bottom should be extra thick. If it is not the first boulder you strike will, in all probability, knock a hole in it and dump you and your load into the river, from which you will be very lucky to escape with your life." Arrived at Dawson City the prospector or would be gold digger must decide for himself, after consulta- tion with people on the ground, where and how he will go prospecting, and thus gain the wealth for which he has come. I can only express the hope, in concluding these hastily but carefully written and arranged pages, that every man who goes will be as lucky, or even more so, than I have been and come back to his home and loved ones ' ' well fixed ' ' for life. most train accor gers. from Th, are nc and i for a exped esq lie the ait ta- lie for Im as How to Reach the Klondyke Will be the first important question asked by those who seriously contemplate seeking their fortunes in the rich gold fields of Alaska. So far as the route to the Pacific Coast is concerned the Southern Pacific Company will undertake to make satisfactory answer. The principal point of embarkation for all trans- Pacific points is San Francisco. All travel and traffic to Alaska is primarily from that point. During the summer season when navigation in the northern seas is possiblv- regular line steamers leave that port for Juneau and other Alaskan ports every few days, thus perfecting the most direct and well established route known to the great mines of the north. 1 he Southern Pacific Company has two lines direct to San Francisco, either of which, depending of course on the starting point, will afford quick and comfortable passage. One is styled the " Ogden Route," extending from Ogden westward in an almost direct line to San Fran- cisco. From the New England and Middle States and the Upper Mississippi Valley it is unquestionably the most popular route to the Pacific Coast. Two through trains daily leave Chicago for San Francisco, providing accommodations for both first and second class passen- gers. Through cars of both classes are likewise run daily from Omaha, Kansas City, Denver and Salt I^ake City. The accommodations on this route for long journeys are not surpassed in trar>«5continental railway service, and it is always of prime importance when arranging for a long journey to consult comfort, convenience and expedition. The Ogden Route is also a noted pictur- esque route, and adds to the attraction of expediency the attraction of pleasure. The other famous line of the S. P. Co, is the ' Sun- set Route " extending from New Orleans to San FrancivSco, and now universally regarded as the great Southern gateway to the Pacific Coast. From the entire southern portion of the United States the natural course westward is through New Orleans, Houston, Kl Paso, Yuina and lyos Angeles to the great Golden Gate metropolis. Through cars first and second class leave New Orleans daily, and every Wed- nesday a tourist car leaves Washington, D, C, direct for San Francisco without change. On Thursdays a tourist car also leaves Cincinnati for the same destina- tion through New Orleans without change. Parties making their arrangements for this long trip will naturally desire to consult someone who can give them full information, hence we take pleasure in appending addresses of the following S. P. Co. agents who will be glad to supply any further information that may be desired as to rates, routes, etc. E. Hawley, A. G. T. M., 349 Broadway, New York ; E. E. Currier, New England Agent, 9 State Street, Boston, Mass ; R. J. Smith, Agent, 49 South Third St., Philadelphia, Pa.; B. B. Barber, Agent, 209 J\. German St., Baltimore, Md,: F. T. Brooks, N. Y. State Agent, 129 S. Franklin St., Syracuse, N. Y.; G. G. Herring, Com. Agent, 201 Telephone Building, Seventh Ave., Pittsburg, Pa.; W. H. Connor, Com. Agent, Chamber of Commerce Building, Cincinnati, O.; W. G. Neimyer, Gen. Western Agent, 238 Clark St., Chicago, 111.; Wm. K. McAllister, Gen. Agent, 1 1 12 vSeventeenth St., Denver, Colo.; R. O. Bean, Traveling Pass. Agent, 4 Noel Block, Nashville, Tenn.; W. R. Fagan, Trav^l'ng Pass. Agent, 18 Wall St., Atlanta, Ga., and S. F. B. Morse, General Passenger Agent, (Atlantic System) New Orleans, La. i ,'■ or Jl'NtAU ihiouqTulMtnof Lahe% DAWSON CITY I (>-; i„a»>_•f<^_„l ^X' rv