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Thoaa too larga to bo ontiroiy includod in ono oxpoaura ara fiimod boginning in tho uppor loft hand cornor, loft to right and top to bottom, aa many framoa aa raquirod. Tho following diagrama iiiuatrata tha mathod: Laa cartaa, pianchaa, tablaaux, ate, pauvant Atra fiimAa A doa taux da rAduction diff Aronts. Lorsquo lo documont ost trop grand pour Atro roprodult on un aaul clichA, 11 aat filmA A partir da I'angia aupAriaur gaucha, do gaucha A droito, ot do haut an baa, an pranant la nombro d'Imagaa nAcaaaaira. Loa diagrammaa suivantt illuatrant la mAthodo. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 w I I f-^ ti i \ VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY IN THB SOUTH SEA, AND TO BEHRING'S STRAITS, IN tBARCU OF ^ Kovtfi^cajSt l^^jifa^e; UNDERTAKEN IN THE YEARS 1815, 16, 17, and IS, In the SMp Burick, BY OTTO VON KOTZEBUE. LONDON: PHINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS AND CO. BKIDE COURT, BRIDGE STREET. 1821. To avoid too much abridgment of this important Voifage, we have fre/erred to extend it to tufo parte, and have closed the year 1816 with the first part. The next part, to appear on the First of Novem- teTf will contain the conclusion of Capt. Kotzebue*s Voyage, together with the highly interesting NarrafiveofiM.C^amissat.theiNolMralistf and a "Dranslation of some of the valuable Memoirs with which the German original is terminated, , M. Necker de Saussure's recent Travels in Scotland and the Hebrides, will appear on the First of December. Vv J. ud C. ADLARD ,PtiiUcn,23 .Bartltolomew Close. i*M-j^*»Jtr i i m. tf m >< im KOTZEBUE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. get we have year 1816 I ofNovem- •e, together Ngtwralistf i whifih the ttland and Jasvjry 22d, 1815. — This afternoon, at three o'clock, I bade farewell to my native town, Revai*, and proceeded on my journey to Abo, at the head of my crew, consisting of Lieut. KoRDiNKOFF and twenty sailors. I had been permitted by government to pick out the best men, as more volunteers than I wanted offered to venture everything with me. The men were in excellent spirits, singing and playing till we arrived at the halting-place. On the 3 1st of January we arrived at St. Petersburg, when I gave my men some days* rest. Here Lieut. Schischmaref, whom I had selected for this expedition, joined us; and here I paid my respects to the patron of the undertaking, Count RiTMANzoFF, who treated me witb kindness and distinctionf, which increased my courage Against all impending difficulties. On the 17th of February we left St. Petersburg, and, after a severe march, arrived in Abo on the 19th. Here I, as well as my officers and poor sailors, were quartered in some small de« cayed huts, where there had been no fire during the whole winter, and which seemed to have been used for fowl-roosts. In vain I expostulated with our landlord ; he shrugged up his shoulders, saying, ** For Russians, they are good enough ;*' and it was not till some weeks after that we obtained better quarters. Here our ship, named Burick, was building ; and, till the II th of May, we had nothing to do but to inspect the progress of tlie work. On that day she was launched, after having been consecrated by a Russian clergyman. The war-flag was then dipped into the water, under the sound of kettle-drums and trumpets, and the shouts of thousands. This flag, I must here observe, the emperor had granted me on my representing that a voyage of discovery under the merchant's flag might be ex- posed to inconveniences and even impediments. Voyages, p^ol, VI. ^ 9 Kotzeb\ie*8 Voyagt round the World. On the 23(1 of May we sailed from Abo for Reval, where we arrived on the 2f)th. Here we took in our stock of spirits, and Capt. Krusenstern brought me the necessary astronomical in- struments, together with two chronometers, that had been made in England expressly for this expedition, and on which, therefore, as is proved by the sequel, we could perfectly rely. On the l6th of June, we sailed from Reval, and on the 16th moored in the road of Cronstadt, in the harbour of which city we completed our preparations for the voyage. July 21th. — The ship is now in complete order, and vic- tualled for two years. We shall leave the harbour to-day. Dr. EscHscHOLTZ and the draughtsman, Choris, who are to accom- pany us on our voyage, are expected on-board by to-morrow. Our whole crew consists of two lieutenants, (Lieut. Zacharin has taken the place of Lieut. Kordinkoff, who remained ill in Reval), three mates, two non-commissioned officers, twenty sailors, the physician, and the draughtsman. In Copenhagen, we are expected by Messrs. Chamisso and Wormski^oid, who are to accompany us as naturalists. On the 23d of July Count RumauzofF, accompanied by Capt. Krusenstern, came on-board, and were soon followed by Adm. MoLLER, commander-in-chief of Cronstadt and Adm. Korobka. The Count was well pleased with the ship, which, however, he thought too small, it being only of 180 tons; but a ship of so small a size had the advantage that we might get very near the coast for the purpose of surveying. The internal arrange- ment is very comfortable ior the officers as well as the men, hav- ing allotted much space to them, from aconviction that on this the health of the whole crew ver^ much depends. The Rurick has two masts and eight guns, viz. two three-pounders, two eight- pounders, and four twelve-pounders When the Count, after having taken leave of us, had left the ship, we saluted him with thirteen shots and three cheers. At five o'clock in the morning, on the 30th July, we left Cronstadt with a fresh breeze irom N.E. ; and on the 9th of August we dropped anchor in the roads of Copenhagen, oppo- site the fort. On the same day, I was introduced to Messrs. Chamisso and Wormskioid, who I requested would get their luggage on-board as soon as possible, as the advance of the season would not admit o( delay. On the 13th of August wc were visited by the Russian and several of the foreign ambassadors, and Adm. Lewener, all of whom expressed their satisfaction at the arrangement of the ship. Knowing, from experience, the difficulty in the office of cook in hot climates, I looked out here for one who bad already made \\f where we spirits, and )nomical in- it had been id on which, rfectly rely, on the 18th f which city er, and vic- 3-day. Dr. re to accom- to-morrow. . Zacharin nained ill in iers, twenty ]!openhagei>» iCLOiD, who ed by Capt. ed by Adm. 1. KOROBKA. lowever, he It a ship of very near al arrange- e men, hav- it on this the Hurick has two eight- ount, after d him with ly, we left I the dth of ;en, oppo- to Messrs. d get their nee of the ussian and (JER, all of )r the ship, of cook in eady made 1 Kotzebue*! Voyage round th§ World, 8 the voyage to the East Indies. I found a West Indian, who I engaged, and who has happily survived the voyage, although he had been constantly exposed to the heat of the fire, even under the equator. At four o*dlock in the morning of the nth of August we left Copenhagen, but, the wind having sprung round to the west, we were -cd^liged to drop anchor at eight, before Helsingor. In Copenhagen I found that my chronometers had much altered since I left Cronstadt. In St. Petersburg they had been observed by the astronomer Schubert, who found, on the 20th July, the chronometer Uivrdy was too late, by the mean ttme, by 9h. 8' 39'.54; the daily loss 2' 18^' of chronometer Baraud, by mean time too soon 3h. 2(/ 3l".C; gained daily 8(f'. In Copenhagen we found that Baraud's lost 18", and Hardy's 21". Such a variation made me doubt their accuracy, but I afterwards found that I had no reason to complain of them. From Copenhagen to Plymouth.— On the 1 8th we had a storm in the night. On the 19th, at ten in the morning, the wind blew from the south, and we sailed in company with a number of merchantmen. On the 1st of September we sailed through the straits of Dover, and on the 7th we dropped anchor before Plymouth, in Chathwater. I had selected this port, because with a fresh wind we might have reached the ocean in one day. I immediately waited on Admiral Morley, the port-adqiiral, who promised me every assistance. I also saw the Russian consul, Mr. Hawker, for whose exertions in providing me with every necessary article, I feel much indebted. - On the Qth I obtained permission of the admiral to bring my instruments to Mount Batten. On the following day we erected a tent there, and set about regulating our watches. On the I5tli I received a life-boat which the British government had des« tined for the Rurick, It was too large for our ship, and the whole crew could scarcely lift it upon deck ; for which reason I was obliged to leave it in Kamtschatka. On the <25th we heaved anchor ; but we had not left the bay > before the wind changed into S.W. With difficulty we got out of the bay ; but in the night we had a violent storm, which did much damage to our tackling, and one of our best men was se-i > verely hurt. At day.break we found ourselves at the entrance of the bay, and we anchored again on the same spot which we had lef!t the day before. Here we quickly repaired our damages, and sailed again on the 30th, with a northerly wind. We had scarcely left the bay, when it sprung round, into S.W. and,: turning again into a storm, I was compelled to enter the bay 9 4 Xotsebuci'i Vojfage round the World, third time, when we anchored behind the new pier. At last, a constant northerly wind arose on the 4th of October, and at ten o*clock in the morning we were under full sail. Chronometer Baraud loses 2".^, and Hardy 49'.o. From Plymouth to Ttneriffe.-^n the 6th we entered the Atlantic ; and now only I thought my voyage had begun : the unpleasant preparations had vanished, and I felt myself full of couri^e and strength to encounter what lay before me. We had stormy weather till the I4th, when, with a northerly wind, the weather became fine. At noon we had reached lat. 99° 32*, long. 13<* 3', and we now found a great change in the temperature of the atmosphere, and 74| Fanren. warmth. On the 21st we crossed the latitude of Gibraltar, and found that the current had carried us, within two days, twenty miles (geogra<. phical, sixty to a degree). On the 23d, at noon, the latitude was 30* S6, long. 15'^ 20'. We had a complete calm ; the sea Was covered with red locusts, two inches long, several of which we caught. Our naturalists maintained that they came from Aflrica, probably carried awuy by storms : they found their grave in the aea; for, being at a distance of 2400 miles, a Hight of such a length was improbable. On the 25th we saw the Salvages from the mast-head, in W.S. W. ; and, to my great joy, the chro- nometers gave their longitude correctly, which proved their exactness. On the 27th we saw the Peak of Tenerifie, about 100 miles distant; and on the next morning, at 11 o'clock, we anchored before the town of St. Cruz. We were imme- diately visited by the Port-captain, Don Carlos Adan, who had before occupied this post when Capt. Krusenstern was here, and had shown him great attentions. For the Jitirick, too, he did what laid in his power, and I feel myself called upon to acknowledge it publicly. My first walk was to the governor, (whose name I unfortunately forget,) who received me very po- litely, and promised me his assistance in every thing. This gentleman has been long in Russia, and seems much attached to the Russians. He has fought with them against the Swedes, as a Spanish colonel, on the flotilla, in Biorca, and received the order of St. George, fourth class, as a mark of his valour from the empress's own hands. He invited me for the next day, and I went to Mr. Coluguan, to whom my letters of credit were addressed. This hospitable gentleman was out of town, and bis clerk promised to supply us with the wines that we wanted, within two days. In the mean time, the kind port-captain assisted us with his people to get our supply of water on-board. The naturalists went to Oratava, on which jouiney they hoped 4 to ver wit P* his Oui Bter islai veg I. At last, a r, and at ten Chronometer entered the had begun : felt myself lay before a northerly reached lat. Iiange in the armth. On und that the les (eeogra> the latitude im } the sea of which we from Aftrica, grave in the It of such a he Salvages >y, the chro« iroved their riffe, about 11 o'clock, nrere imme- , who had was here, ckf too, he ed upon to governor, ne very po- ling. This ch attached le Swedes, eceived the ralour from xtday, and credit were town, and we wanted, ort-captain r on-board. they hoped Kotzebue^s Vwfoge round the World, fl to make a rich collection. On the 29th I dined with the go- vernor, and presented him with a copy of Krusenstern^s Atlas, with prints, which he admired the more for having been en- S raved in Russia, and said he would send that beautitul work to is king. On the 30th we were supplied with every thing. Our wine was of two sorts, at thirty and at thirty 'eight pounds sterling the pipe, and the former was said to be the best on th« island. During our stay the crew ate quantities of fruit and vegetables, and we took a large supply ot them with us. From Teneriffe to St. Catherine. — It would be superfluous to give a description of Tenerifle, which has been so often des- cribed ; and our stay there was too short to make any interest- ing observations. On the 1st of November we left St. Cruz with a fresh breeze from north-east, but, as the wind soon became lowering, we were obliged to tack about between the islands of Teneriii'c and Ca- nary. The following morning we were on the spot where there is supposed to be a rock between the two islands ; but as we sailed several times to and fro between themj I am almost of opinion that it is a mere supposition. On the Sd we had reached tne trade- wind, and at noon we bad nearly lost sight of the Peak. In the vicinity of the islands of Cape Verd our crew were attacked by violent pains in the head and stomach ; the air was very sultry, and the thermome- ter never fell under 77** Fahren. The sickness, however, soon gave way to the skill of our physician, and entirely disappeared after we had left these islands. At noon we passed the latitude of the island of St. Antonio, at a distance of 35 miles, without seeing it. During the night twenty -five flying flsh bad fallen upon deck, of which we made an excellent dinner. These flsh frequently fall on small ships, which, like ours, do not project higher from the water than they fly when they are pursued by their enemies ; sometimes, too, they lieat with great violence against the sides of the ship, and, stunned by the blow, fall back into the water. Not having seen the isle of St. Antonio, I directed my course within sight uf the isle of Brava, the south- ernmost of the islands of Cape Verd, in order to try my chro- nometers. A fresh trade-wind quickly brought us forward. On the loth, at noon, we discovered the island projecting between t)ie clouds, at a distance of ^0 miles. My chronome- ters gave its longitude by 10' more easterly than they are on Horsburgh's chart, and 1 have reason to believe that mine is more correct, since the frequent observations which we made before and afterwards always proved the exactness of the chro- nometers. On the evening of the 4th, we sailed by the island of Brava, without losing the trade-wind. The island is high. ,H Kotz«bue*t yojfQ§% round the W9rld» and In the weit^ riies almoit horleontally from the sea : it ii co« Tered with a rich green Terdure, and oflfera a delightful pros- Eect to the navigator. We saw near the shore a quantity of trge and small nsh sporting in the water, which prove that the island has also a plentiful supply ; et'en Bving-fish are here nu- snerousi several having accompanied us from Cape Verd, and we had some daily falling upon, or flying over, tne deck ; one flew so near the officer on the watch, that it struck his nose vith its wing. On the ISth of November, under lat. 9^ 53* and long. 30** 5V, we lost the trade. wind ; and we were now under change- able winds, which delayed us for several days together, with calms, rains, thunder-storms, and violent squalls. Notwith- standing, our crew were in good health, having none on the sick list. On the l«th, in lat. 70*^31", long. SO^ 89^, we saw three cranes ; one of them was so exhausted that she fell in the wa- ter, the two others fluttered round her, and thus lost themselves. On the same day, a small land-bird perched on the ship. The nearest land lay 5\^ from us, and it is astonishing how so small a bird could perform so long a journey : we may conclude from it that we cannot always cuculate upon a near land from seeing sQch a bird. On the 18th, in lat. 6^48", long. 20° 28", we had the reel S.E. trade-wind, yet so much from the south that we were obliged to keep a very westerly course. From the island of Cape Verd, the current bad driven us daily for several miles to the S.E. ; to-day it changed its direc- tion, driving the ship forcibly towards the west. We also sailed over the spot where Warleis-bank is said to be situate, without perceiving any thing extraordinary } which makes me doubt its existence. On the Sist we spoke to the East-India* man Bombay, coming from Bombay to England. Two offi- cers came on-board of us, and we compared the longitudes of our chronometers, and found only t' diflerence : the English having begun theirs at St. Helena, there could be little vari- ation Trom the true latitude. Oa the 23d, at eight o'clock in the evening, we crossed the equator. In the morning we commenced our preparations fpr the solemnity of the day. Towards the evening, after the ship had been well scoured and every thing put in order, she was profusely illuminated; the officers and, men put themselves in their best dresses, and the passage from one hemisphere into the other was waited for in solemn silence : on the stroke of eight, the flag flew up, the southern hemisphere was saluted with eight shotSf and we drank lo a prosperous voyage in our best I sea: ititco« slightful pros- a quantity of Krove that the are here nu- ip« Verd, and tne deck ; one ruck liis nose and lon{i:. 20** inder chang^e- logether, with Is. Notwith* ; none on the we saw three fell in thewa. >9t themselves. on the ship, lishing how so may conclude lear land froin B had the real that we were lad driven us )ged its direc- ist. We also to be situate, lich makes me )e East-India- d. Two offi- longitudes of the English be little vari- re crossed the eparations fpr after the ship rder, she was themselves in phere into the oke of eight, saluted with ;e in our best \ I t : Xotzebue*i Voyage round (hi WorU, f wine, and the sailors in good punch. This being done, Nep- tune bade us welcome in the south, and baptized every one who had touched the equator for the first time, myself being the only one exempt from tills ceremony. The merry-making was kept up till a lute hour. Half a degree to the north, and even under tlie equator, wo found the current to the N.W. 86* 41" in twenty-four hours. On the 1st of December, in lat. H^ 40'.5, long. S3* 30% we lost the trade-wind ; a fresh breeze, accompanied by rain and frequent squalls, blowing from the north. Our second lieu- tenant, Zacharin, having been sickly since we left Toneriflfe, I fear that the voyage will prove injurious to him. On the 8d, lat. 18° 10'', long. Zb^ 2i", Ave lanced three bo- iiitos, which were very acceptable, havii\g for some time past been without fresh proviitions. To complete the treat, 1 had a cask of sour-crout opened, with which we had been provided by the American Company in St. Petersburg, and which we yet found in a perfectly good state. In the evening, we had a play : at noon a bill was posted up on the head-mast, in which the Country Wedding was announced. The sailors had com- posed the play amone themselves, and performed it to the ge- neral satislaction of the spectators ; the performance was con- cluded by a Ballet, with general applause. Some may think such amusements ridiculous in a discovery -ship; I, however, am of opinion that on-board every thing ought to be done to keep the crew in a cheerful disposition, and to make them thus pass over the dilficulties of such a wearisome service ; besides, cheerfulness will have its salutary effect upon the bodily frame, since a cheerful man is, generally speaking, the healthiest. On Sunday we had regularly something particular before us : the sailors amused themselves for some days previously with their plans and preparations, and afterwards they had a rich stock for conversation and amusement. On that day their table was also better served, and the allowance of spirit was doubled. On the 6th, we were in the vicinity of Cape Irio, the lati- tude of which I was to have determined, according to my in, structions; but, the continued dull weather rendering this im- possible, we steered toward the island of St. Catherine. The next day we noticed upon the water a serpentine line of a dark- brown colour, of the breadth of a couple of fathoms, and ex- tending as far as the eye could reach. At first sight, I took it for a shallow ; yet, when a boat was let down, from which it was examined by Mr. Wormskloid, who brought some of this water on-board, we found that the line was formed by an in- numerable multitude of small crabs, and iho seed of a plant, n if 8 Kotzcbne's l^tn/age round the World. ii'i! ^ i ! ;; which, according to our naturalists, grows at the bottom of the sea. On the 10th, off* the island of St. Catherine, we were assailed by a storm, which lasted the whole day. On the 12th we appeared oflP St. Cruz, and anchored nearly on the same spot where the Nadeshda had lain twelve years ago. We had scarcely cast anchor, when a sergeant of the fort of St. Cruz came on-board, and, in the name of the commandant, put the usual questions to us. The next day, I went to the town Nos- trO'Senora-Dudesterro, which was situated a few leagues from our anchorage, to pay my respects to the governor. Major Louis Manricia de Sclvcira. He received me coolly, and did not seem inclined to obey the commands which he had received from Rio Janeiro, to assist the Rurick as niucli as was in his power. But the port-captain, S. Pinto, a very obliging gen- tleman, promised to satisfy all our wants, as soon as possible. I dined with Mr. Chamisso at S. Pinto's country-seat, situated in a most delightful spot ; which, after the fatigues of the sea, afforded us much enjoyment. In the evening I again went on- board, making every preparation to pitch a tent on shore the next day, and to have the instruments taken there. It was placed on a small eminence, under palm and banana trees, so that we could see our Rurick ; woody hills rose in the back- ground, and we had various walks under the fragrant shade of lemon and orange trees. The country along the shore is inha- bited by soldiers of the militia, who only serve in case of ne. cessity, and are besides engaged in the cultivation of rice and sugar. The houses are at a considerable distance from each other, and the wealth of their owners is calculated according to the number of their negro slaves; who, like the members of the family, work with their masters, and enjoy whatever the house alFords. In town, however, the negroes arc very unfor. tunatc ; they are employed in hard labour, like beasts of bur- den, particularly in beating the husks from the rice, for which they arc made to use clubs so heavy that they can scarcely lift them up; the whip frequently quickens them in their labour when ihcir strength fails, and for which they are but miserably fed. By this inhuman treatment, they have actually sunk to the level of beasts; they seem to be quite incapable of reflection or feeling ; their appearance is horrid and pititul. The most of- fensive epithet with the Portuguese is black man ! The slaves of the soldiers are quite diflferent beings ; they enjoy them- selves ; and we had every reason to be pleased with our ixeigh- buurs, who treated us in a friendly and hospitable manner. The soldiers think themselves very poor, not having received lit ivv. the bottom of were assailed the 12th we the same spot t>. We had ; of St. Crua lant, put the le town Nos- leagues from jrnor, Major oily, and did : had received as was in his obliging gen- i as possible, seat, situated ;s of the sea, ^ain went on- on shore the lere. It was ana trees, so : in the back- rant shade of shore is inha« case of ne. ition of tice ce from each id according members of vhatever the very unfor. easts of bur- I, for which scarcely lift their labour ut miserably ally sunk to of reflection The most of- The slaves njoy them- our neigh- le manner, ng received Kotzebue^s Voyage round the World, ^ any pay for several years : they are certainly without money, yettney are never without the necessaries of life, with which tne land furnishes them ; and thus I think them rich and happy. I went to live in a small house, belonging to a soldier's widow, and I now stayed on shore to regulate my. chronometers. The evenings we devoted to recreation ; the good-natured inhabi- tants used then to assemble round our tent; a couple of flutes and violins increased the mirth and invited dancing and sin^. ing, and we had frequent opportunities of admiring the skill with which the girls danced the fandango. Immediately after sun5', 1 gave up the search of Davis- Land, I taking a more southern course, in hope of being more fortu- ^' nate in finding the IVarchams Rock^ in lat. 26° 30' S. We could rely on the correctness of our longitude, it having been \ for some days taken from distances of tlie sun and moon, which .agreed to a lew minutes with the longitudes of the chronome- *jters. Here I threw in the sea a well-corked bottle, containing a paper with the latitude and longitude of the ship, the date of Hhe month and year, declaring that the Kurick had looked out |here for Davis-Land without effect. On the 24th, lat. 26° 29' ;, S., long. 100° 27', at five o'clock in the afternoon, we passed " over the spot where, according to Arrowsmith's Chart, IVar- chains Jiock is situated. We saw great numbers of tropical birds and fish ; the horizon was clear, but the man who kept the look-out at the mast-head could sec no rock. In the even- iiig we had constant lightning, but fine weather, and sometimes the horizon seemed to be on 'fire all around us. Under a starry heaven and fresh easterly breeze, we continued our course to the west, in order to find the Isle of Salis ; towards the morn. ing we saw a great quantity of sea-birds, whose numbers kept increasing as we rapidly- sailed on. Soon there flew so many Id Kotzebtie^s Voyage round the Wortd, pelicahs and frigates about our vessel, that we could no longei^ uoubt our being near some land, and the sailor on the mast- head soon gave us the pleasing intelligence that he saw land. At noon we distinctly saw, from the t'oie.caslle, in S.W. tSd deg., at a distance of 10 miles, a small rocky island ; which, although our longitude diflPered a little from the given one, could only be Sabs Island. The greatest distance from which the island is to be seen is only 1 5 miles, and then it has the ap- pearance of two groups of rocks lying near each other; but, on coming near, you see the low land which unites them ; its length from N.W.W. to S.E.E. is about a mile, its breadth is trifling. We approached the island in the south till within three-quarters of a mile, and now plainly distinguished, with the aid of tele- scopes, the obiects on shore ; which, however, were not very inviting, for the grey naked rocks, which lie about in great masses, give the island the appearance of a melancholy ruin, which is only inhabited by sea-birds. On the N.£. and S.W. points are reefs, against wliich the surges break with fury, and where we sought in vain the wreck of the lost vessel, which had been probably smashed to pieces against the breakers. We found the latitude of this island 26" S6' 16" S., longitude, by the chronometers regulated on Easter Island, 105© u^' 28" W. I am almost convinced that Warchams Rock is an erroneous idea, the rock Sabs having hitherto been taken for it. In order to make sure of there being no other island in this vicinity, I continued my course westward, and only turned it to Easter island, after having sailed a couple of degrees, with- out discovering any thing. The latter we saw in the morning of the 28th of March. After having doubled the western point, we directed our course, at a small distance from the west coast, towards Cook's Bay, from which we saw smoke arising, probably to announce the arrival of a vessel to the in- habitants of the interior. At noon, being close by Cook's Bay, we saw two boats, each of them manned by two islanders, rowing towards us. 1 had no doubt that these people, who had given such great contidence to La Perouse, would welcome surprise, was great us with the same kindness ; which, to my however not the case. They approached us mistrustfully and timidly until within a musket-shot, from whici) distance they shewed us some roots, but would not by any means come near the ship. The construction of the boats, of which we saw several, and which can only hold two persons, is from 5 to 6 feet long, and about one foot wide, composed of small boards, and having a balancier on both sides. La Perouse is probably mistaken, when he thinks that, from want of wood, these islanders would soon be without boats altogether ; it is true we / . w. iould no longeif or on the mast- at he saw land. le, in S.W. m island ; which, the given one, ce from which n it has the ap- i other ; but, on \\em ; its length adth is trifling. I three-quarters he aid of tele- were not very about in great elancholy ruin, N.E. andS.W. with fury, and b vessel, which ! breakers. We longitude, by 05o %*' 28" W. an erroneous or it. island in this only turned it degrees, with- n the morning the western ance from the ve saw smoke essel to the in- >se by Cook's two islanders, ; people, who vould welcome surprise, was strustfuUy and distance they lans come near vhich we saw is from 5 to 6 f small boards, se is probably wood, these it is true we Kot zcbue's Voyage round the World. 17 have not «cen any tree on the whole island, but the canoes are built of wood, which is drifted here in great quantities by the current, from the coast of America. The ground in Cook'a Bay being very bad in some places, I sent out Lieut. Scbisch- marefF to look for a convenient anchorage, during which I kept the Rurick under sail. The islanders who bad hitherto foU lowed the vessel, talking loudly among themselves, and seem- ingly in a very good humour, fled bastuy to the shore, on seeing, our boat. Honrever, as the boat approached the land, they swam in great numbers to meet it, loaded with.tarrow-root, yams, and bananas, which they greedily exchanged for small bits of old iron ; some traded veiy honestly, some cheated, and one even endeavoured to lay hold of something by force. In order to keep the others from infection, he was fired upon with very small shot, which did not, however, prevent them from robbing us. On the signal of our boat that they had found good anchorage, I approached it, and dropped the anchors upon a ground of fine sand, in a depth of 22 fathoms. The I Sandy Bay lay 45 degrees S.E. from us, the two rocks were ' concealed behind the southern point : our boat now returned without the islanders venturing to follow it. Having an inten- tion to land, I ordered two boats to be manned, and we left the ship in the afternoon, 17 strong. A great many savages had collected on shore; they screamed, danced, made strange I gestures, and seemed to await our arrival with impatience ; I but, having selected the only spot where the surge permitted I them to land, to perform their antics, we could not venture to i leave the boats beiore they had made room, to which however- S' we could not induce them. With laughing and joking they I obliged us to push from shore, and ^ven followed us in the '^ water, which however we did not think dangerous, they being II unarmed. We had scarcely left the shore, when hundreds ame round our boats, to exchange bananas and sugar«cane for. pieces of old iron, making, at the same time* a mo:>t intole*. ^able noise, all likewise talking with great vivacity, and some , Seemed to be very witty, frequently causing a general dreadful paugh. The spectators on shore, who began to get tired of this scene, endeavoured to amuse themselves by throwing stones at us, an amusement which I put a stop to by a few musket- shots. By this expedient I also got rid of our company in the water, and gained the landing-place, where I quickly sent ^ some sailors on shore. But, scarcely had the savages perceived this, when they surrounded us again with increased obtrusive- ness : they now had painted their faces white, red, and black, which gave them a frightful appearance, dancing with the most, ridiculous contortion of body, and making such a dreadful • Voyages, VoL VL © v: 1'1 1» ill ■ I' tip 1 'ii I -m ; i'li Kotzebuc*s Voyage round the World. )bligeil to bawl into each other' noise, that we were obliged to bawl into each other's ears to unxlerstand each other. I can imagine the impiession which this scene made on Lieut. SchischmareiT, who saw these people for the first time, and thought he was surrounded by so many monkeys ; for the confusion even surpassed my own conception, although r was already acquainted with the inhabitants of the Sonth Sea. In order to disperse them, and to gain some ground, I had knires thrown among them ; but when I, never- theless, felt a stone rebounding from my hat, I ordered the sailors to fire again, after which oiily I could go on shore myself. Here it was my first occupation to look for the large remark- able statues, which had been seen by Cook and La Perouse, yet I found only a heap of fragments lying near a whole ne- destal, all the rest bad vanished without leaving a trace behind them. The mistrustful conduct of the islanders now made me think that, some Europeans having quarrelled with them, they had revenged themselves by makmg this destruction. It also struck me that we had not seen any women, either in the water or on shore, about whose obtrusiveness my predecessors have 80 ofiten complained, and which confirmed me in my supposi- tion that some Europeans had recently been guilty of cruelty here, ^fter having convinced myself that the good islanders would, under no condition, permit us to enter the island, we endeavoured to Mrithdraw the boats, which besides were very unsafe between the breakers ; but even now we were obliged to keep them off by a couple of bullets, and it was not until they heard them whizzing by their eaVs, that they allowed us to withdraw in peace. We yet gave them some iron, and then hastened back on-board, as, under existing circumstances, a longer stay would have been time lost, and I had not a mo- ment to spare. The people here seem to me to be well made, but of a middling size ; most of them are copper-coloured, only a few are rather white : all of them are tattooed, but those who are so««ll over the body seem to hold some superior rank. The stuff, which on most of the South Sea Islands is Hiade from bark of trees, we also found here ; some men wear- ing short cloaks made from it, and the women, who stood at a distance, were entirely wrapped in them. To judge by the cheerfulness of these people, they seemed to be satisfied wjth their condition ; they had probably no want of provision, since they brought us yams, bananas, sugar-cane, and potatoes, in tolerably large quantities ; nor do they neglect the cultivation of the soil, for we saw the hills near the bay covered with fields, which, by their various kinds of green, had a very plea- sant effect. The seeds which La Perouse had given them could not have succeeded) since they brought us no fruits of them : we 1 I. otiier's ears to piession which vr these people ed by so many vn conception, [ibitants of the to gain some ivben I, never- ered the sailors shore myself, larc^e remark. id La Perouse, r a whole pe. a trace behmd now made me th them» they ction. It also er in the water Jecessors have ti my supposi. Ity of cruelty good islanders ;ne island, we des were very t&ra obliged to not until they allowed us to ron, and then circumstances, bad not a mo- be well made, )per-coloured, tattooed, but some superior Sea Islands is •me men wear- rho stood at a judge by the satisfied wjtb revision, since I potatoes, in ie cultivation covered with d a very plea- m them could uits of them : Kotzebue*s Voyage round the World, 10 we als6 looked in vain for the descendants of the sbieep and pigs that he had \e(t here; only one fowl was offered to us for a large knife, and taken away again when we would not agree to the bargain, a proof how high they value these birds, and how few of them they must have. Their houses are quite the same at La Perouse has described them i and tlie long bouse and stone cottage, mentioned on his map as standing near the shore, are still there. Upon the whole I think that, with the exception of the disappearance of the remarkable statues, no changes have oecurred since he was here; and, even oi those, we saw a couple when we sailed round the southern point, but they were inconsiderable. Our farewell from Easter Island the inhabitants returned by stones, which thev threw after us with a great noise ; and I was glad when we had got safe on board again, and were under sail. An account which I afterwards received of the Sandwich islands, from Alexander Adams, explains the hostile conduct of the islanders against me. This Adams, by birth an English* man, commanded in 18 16 the brig Kahumunna, belonging to the king of the Sandwich Islands, and had served in the same brig as mate, under Captain Piccort, before she had been sold to the king, when she bore the name of Forrester, of London. l\\ the year 1805, the captain of the schooner Nancy t (Adams has not mentioned his name,) of New London, in America, was encaged in the island of IVIassafuero in taking a kind of seal, called by the Russians kotick (sea-cats). The skins of these animals fetch a high price in the China market, which makes the Americans seek for them in all parts of the world. This animal was accidentally discovered on the still uninhabited island of Masaafuero, south of Juan Fernandez, (whither they send the criminals from Chili,) and was immediately chased* ^The island however had no anchorage, the ship was obliged to remain under sail, and the captain not bavins people enough to use part of them for the chase, he reserved to sail to Easter Island, there to steal men and women, with whom he could form a colony on Massafuero, in order to carry qn the chase of the animal regularly. This cruel project he attempted in 1800, landing in Cook's Bay, where he endeavoured to seize a num* ber of inhabitants. The battle is said to have been bloody, the islanders defending tliemselves with great bravery; however they were obliged to submit to European arms, and 12 men and 10 women fell into his bands alive. These unhappy people were taken on-board, where they were kept for the first three days in irons, till they had entirely lost sight of the land, The first use the men made of their liberty was to jump overboard, and the women, who »ttempte4 to follow them^ were only rer :>i3u Kl 80 Kotzebue*! Fcyagt rdund the World. t i ,1 I! Ii ;i tained by force. The captain immediately came-to, hoping they would look for lafety on board, when they could swim no longer} but he loon perceived that he was mistaken » for these savages, familiar with the element from their youth, thought it not impossible to reach their native country in spite of the distance or a three days* voyage, and at all events to prefer death to a life of captivity. After having for some time disputed about the direction which they were to take, the com- pany divided, some took tlie straight way to Easter Island, the others turned towards the north. The captain, extremely an. gry at this unexpected act of heroism, sent a boat after them, which, after many useless attempts, returned; for they always dived at its approach, and the sea proved their protection. At last the captain left the men to their fate, taking the women to Massafuera, and he is said to have made afterwards several at* tempts to take people from the Easter Island. Adams, who had these circumstances from him, and on that account prolia- bly would not name him, told me that he had been himself, in I8O6, near Eatiter Island, where the natives would not allow him to land ; the ship yibstross, under Captain Windship, met, as he said, with the same fate in 1809. I was to have touched at Pitcairn*s Island, and from thence to have taken my course to the west, as far as 137 deg. ; but our voyage from Cronstadt to Chili having taken too much time, I was now obliged to take a shorter course to Kamtschatka, if I could arrive in Baring Strait in time. On the 8th of April, lat. 18 deg. 6min. S., long. 125 deg. 16 mii>., we saw several kinds of sea-birds, some of which are not usually seen far from the shore ; besides, we were in the vicinity where I might expect new discoveries, I therefore had always a man on the mast-head, to whom I promised a reward for every discovery. Soon the call of Land inspired us with the highest expectations, thinking that it must be something new. When, behold, the supposed land rose in the shape of a black cloud, and, moving along the horizon, carried away our fair hopes. , On the 10th, lat. 16 deg. 39min. S., long* ISOdeg. IBmin.— It is remarkable that from Easter Island the wind mostly blows from E. and N.E., and the S.E. trade- wind does not stir; the weather is always light, and often, at sun-set, there is lightning from the north. Ihe nights being very warm, we all sleep upon deck, a circumstance which procured me a strange visit. I awoke by the motion of a very cold animal at my side, which 1 at first took for a lizard, that might have been taken in with the wood. Upon closer inspection, however, 1 found a flying- fish in my hands, and I am, probably* the first who has caught one in bed, % na-to, hoping \y could twim mistaken » for I their youth, untry in ipite all events to for some time ike, the com- er Island, the Bxtremely an- ot after them, tr they always ocection. At the women to rdsseveriil at* Adams, who Bcount prolMi- en himself, in lid not allow in Windship, d from thence 137 deg.; but oo much time, itschatka, ifl ong. 125 deg. of which are were in the therefore had a reward for us with the something Kotzebue*f Voyage round tht WorU, $1 :d )e in the shape carried away ;g. ISmin.— mostly blows not stir; the is lightning we all sleep strange visit. side, which aken in with und a flying- o has caught ^%. On the ISth, lat. 15 deg. 36inin. S., long. 1 S3 deg. 56iiiim in the afternoon, at six o'clock, wa were on the spot where Arrowsmith places the Island of Bt. Pablo, without finding the least indication of land; and at eight o'clock in the evening I took my course due west, in order to pursue, according to my instructions, the parallel 15 de^., in which Sfihouten and Le- maire have several islands| which hav« afterwards Mfar been seen. The 15th, lat. 34 deg. 41 min., long, isldeg. OOmin., we saw, during the whole day, various sea-birds, particutarly frigates and pelicans ; and at five o'clock in the aUernouti we were suddenly assailed by a violent rain, accompanied with squalls from the N.W. such a strange change of wind in a region where it usually only blows from E. and S. E. I thought could only proceed from the proximity of some land, and 1 re- solved not to sail farther during the night. The 16th, lat. 14 deg. 51 min., long. 138 deg. 4 min., we continued our course at day-break with a strong wind from E.N.E. At three o'clock in the afternoon, a sailor at the mast-head cried land ! and soon I had the inexpressible joy of beholding the fulfilment of my wishes. The land had been discovered in N.N.W. by a W.S.W. course, and we immedi- ately set sail for it. The island seemed to us to be small and very low, for the wood which we clearly distinguished seemed to stand on the immediate surface of the ocean. The greatest distance from which the island may be seen from the mast-head is ten miles. We now sailed round its northern point, within a distance of a mile and a half, and found the island thickly co- vered with underwood, in the middle of which was a small lake, the shores surrounded by coral reefs, and the surge so strong that it seemed impossible to land. When the sun had set, vre drew away from this lovely spot, tacking the whole night with few sads, in order to examine it again the next morning. The wind shifting from N. to N.E., it cannot easily be explained why the monsoon changes here its usual direc- tion, there being no high land near. At sun-set the bird flew toward the island, and returned in the morning. I think I may say, from my own experience, that the navigator may calcu- late upon the vicinity of an uninhabited island when he sees many seu.birds, especially pelicans, moving about ; an obser> vation, hovrever, which is only applicable between the tro- pics ; he will observe that, at sun-set, they will all fly in one directionj (those excepted which keep upon sea the whole night,) and one might, by following the flight of these birds, find their residence. At day-break we approached the island »gaiQ| bailing within a mile and a half of its uorth and west Ill I 1 ^! I 1; i'^lt 111 I ill! Mttot. We saw no-wKere a place for landingi except at the K.W. pointy where it m^fht oave been possible to apfMroacb, if the north vrind had not nade the surge so high. Tlie middle of the island, near the lake, is very low, the external points in N. and S. are higher. We looked in vain for a pabn-tree< According to the description » this .isJaod resembles jrc ions between the correct- >t.head cried ngttiahed an r. but several rhts I eould Ived to resist e ship under I to examine already seen Sacharin, on iiilors ToJun* »pily landed y ices that the lally landed, id a plaited f tbiog» bitt, V j^j ■"i % /fyttlf Derlenuom ut'diei7eetllrn!88tEaHcxa. . £inl£dand X'^^ \* GoatMmd, ■i^S^::^ ^* -r \ AMuhml,Oetrt.aii,fyX.na^* C?BHACm*^ r jf-r "■, t'.y jsxa Cfrmed £iri Iiland f.i.*"'»" <..^»""" * >■%"• tk^t.ait.1yRJka^tb C?Bra»Cam*Aii^ f^nat^Zondon. % ■x.-,- H 'I 1 1 ii kot«eHue*8 V^Afoge rmnd the IVorfd. dd diirinif the night, I ^et my men about making a raft, which way finiihed by the morning, being large enough to urs we had crossed tlie island from N. to S., and, on our re- irn, we fell in with several cisterns, dug with great care, rhich contained some very good water. It is a well-known let that there are no springs on the coral islands, where the ihabitants are reduced to rain-water, which they collect in listerns made for that purpose. Having again reached our land- )g-place, we drank a bottle of wine, under loud cheers, to \ie health of Count Rumanzoff, after whom I named the island. ?lags were hoisted in our boats linder the firing of muskets, ^pon which signal the Rurick hoisted the Imperial flag, under a syal salute, and we drank the health of our beloved emperor, ^ith the same difficulty under which we had landed we reached 4 24 Kotzebue*s Vo^ge round the World. our boats again, and at two o*clock in the afternoon we were back on-board the Rurick, where I distributed. ,the cocoa-nvtSy which we had brought from Rumanzoff Island, among the re- mainder of the crew. The allowance of the men that day was doubled, and the sailor who had discovered the island received a reward of six piastres. We tacked the whole of the follow- ing niffht, from fear of running against some low iuland, which we had reason to suppose lay in the vicinity, and at day-break we continued our course towards the west. The latitude of the centre of Rumanzoff Island, according to a mid-day obser- vation, taken with three sextants, was 14 deg. 57 min. 20 sec. S., longitude, after the chronometers, agreeing with the obser- vation, 144 deg. 28 min. 30 sec. W. The declension of the needle 5 deg. 36 min. east. On the 22d of April, at 9 o^clock in the morning, we saw land from the mast-head, in N.N.W., and immediately steered for it. This island, with a lake in the centre, from which se- veral large stones were projecting, is of the same construction as the rest; it runs in length 1 1 miles from N.N.E^ ^to S.S.W., and is only 3 miles broad. We sailed round the S.W. point, within the distance of iialf a mile, without seeing either the trace of a human being, nor a single cocoa-tree. At noon we bad the southern point of the island in the east ; from an excel- lent observation which we had, we found its central latitude 14 deg. 41 min. S., longitude, by the chronometers, 144 deg. Sg min. 20 sec. W. Not doubting that this island was also a new discovery, I called it after my former chief, the Admiral Spiridqf. As the island did not seem to be inhabited, and the landing being as difficult as on the former island, I would not lose any time, but steered W.S.W. with the intention of seeing Cook*s Palissaiis, and comparing my longitudes with his. Im- mediately after sun-set 1 came to a spot where the sea was sur- prisingly smooth and calm, a proof that there must have been many islands near us ; but we found the current here so strong, that on the following noon the ship had been drive^i g8 miles tu the N.W. 82 deg. On the 2^d April, at day-break, we again set sail, and, ac- cording to my calculation, at 10 o'clock in the morning, we were a little to the north of the meridian of the Palissairs, therefore I ordered our course S.S. W. At half past 10 land was seen both to the right and left ; I now steered S. to £. which took us straight into the passage. The land to t>^? right, consisting of a multitgde of small coral islands, co.ereu witli wood, and connected by coral reefs, 1 declared to be a new discovery. Their situation was more north than that of the PalissairS| which we distinctly sayir pn the lefty and the meri* -noon we were iie cocoa-DVtSy aqaong the re- in that day wa» island received I of the foUow- f/ island, which d at day-break The latitude ot naid-day obser- 57 min. 20 sec. with the obser- clension of the >rning, we saw ediately steered from which se- me construction ^.E, »to S.S.W., be S.W. point, icing either the ;e. At noon we ; from an excel- i central latitude iieters, 144 deg. island was also a ef, the Admiral labited, and the nd, I would not :ention of seeing !s with his. Im- the sea was sur- must have been t here so strong, riven 28 miles to let sail, and, ac- ^he morning, we )f the Palissairs, alf past 10 land ^ r steered S. to E. | and to t*'^ right, ds, co.f reii witli: ed to be a new: than that of thej t, and the weri* Kotzebue*8 Visage roitnd the World. m dian of thi^t we had already pftsscd, which ought not ta have been by our ship's account. 1 began to doubt the exactniess of my chronometers, when a mid-day observation convineed me that the current had put us out, which had driven us 30 miles W. My calculation of the longitude of the Palissairs agreefl with that of Cook by three minutes ; in our latitudes we had no difference at all. Convinced that the islands in S.E. were actually the Palissairs, and consequently required no investiga. tion, we turned our attention to those lately discovered, which extendrcd in a chain as far S.W. as the eye could discer^ ; the accompanying chart of them will give a better idea of their situation than any description, which 1 therefore omit. I am inclined tp think them uninhabited, since we neither saw a trace of men nor any cocoa-trees, althounli we had pursued the wl|[olo chain, beginning from the south-west end, and keeping so near the shore that we could even sec the motion oi the trees by the wind. The length of the largest islands, which were connected by low coral reefs, extending from 100 to ?00 fathoms, was about two miles; their breadth half or a quarter of a mile ; but all of- them, even the smallest, that were not above 100 fathoms long, were covered with very beautiful trees. These islands probably form a circle ; for, from the mast-head, we could see the horizon on the other side of the chain, the sea appearing calm, while on this side the surf was high. At noon we passed close by a low reef, which enabled us to take the altitude of the sun on the other side of the land; we then followed the chain, which ran in a serpentiu') line, till three o'clock in the afternoon, where we saw another long reef form- ing the southern part, and then abruptly turning to the west. At the same moment land was announced in S.S.E., and I found, by farther investigation of the chain, by continuing my course to N.W., that this long reef joined in that direction with other Islands. At six o'clock in the evening we reached the most westerly island of the whole chain; the length of which to this spot, deducting the curves, was 40 miles ; here tlie land abruptly turned to the N.E., and disappeare^l in the N. As the sun was now setting, we were obliged to postpone our survey till the morning, and therefore tacked during the night with few sails; but, as soon as day-light appeared, we found that the current had taken us away far from the land in the east, to new islands in the west. On the 24th, the islands discovered yesterday lay to us over the wind, and after much tacking we only gained just enough to see the land in the east from the mast-head. My time being Voyages, FoL VI, E f.l ' I 29 K6izt!liiu€i*% Foyage round thtWiirUt, short, I was oblieed to aivo up the farther survey of these Mands, and called them the Rurick Chain. Nor could we in- vestigate the island which we bad seen from the south point of llie Rurick Chain in S.S. E. ; but, as it is discovered, some other navigator, who chooses to try his fortune ampng these danger* ous groups, may complete that which the circumstancea did not allow me to examine. . Points in the Rurick Chain which have been astronomically determined: Latitude 6f the north point lb" !(/ S. Longitude 146 34 W. Latitude of the east point . 15 21 S. Longitude 146 46W. Latitude of the south point, where we termi- ^^'^'nated our survey ....... . 15 SOU. Longitude 146 46 W. Declension of the needle-..-.— .•> — — 6 16 E. ' . r • I now directed my course towards the land in the west, which we had seen at day- break, and we soon saw that it was of the same construction as the Rurick Chain, extending from E, to W, Following the southern part, within the distance of half a mile from shore, I convinced myself that it must be the Dean's Island, in Arrowsmith^s chart. The sun had set before we had reached the end of the chain, which still kept its direc- tion to th^ south. Here too we saw neither traces of men, nor cocoa-trees, yet it is not probable that so great an extent of land should be uninhabited. We tacked during the night, and the following morning continued the survey. \ On the 26th, when we had approached the south point of Pean*s Island, and already began to see that the chain took its direction to -N.E. , we discovered land in W.N.W. ; Dean's Island being at the same time under the wind, I gave up the farther investigation of this point, turning my course towards tlie land that we saw in the west, and which I took to be a new discovery. The direction of Dean's Island is incorrectly drawn in Arrowsmith's chart, where it seems to have been overlooked : it is a chain of islands connected by coral reefs.^v I have fre- qurntly bad experience in my voyages with other.coral islands!, to prove that they form circles, which makes me think that it is also the case with this. The direction and extent of Dean's Island, alter our survey, which.is chiefly founded on astrono. piical observations, is N.W. 76*^ and St£. 76**, filling a space of 7 2| miles in this direction. ^ey of these :ould we in- uth point of i, some other hese danger* mcep did not troDomicaliy 16" 10' S. 146 34 W. 15 21 S. 146 46 W. 15 soft; 146 46 W. 6 16 E. \' ewes't^ which it was of the g from E. to tance of half must be the ad set before eptitsdirec- of men, nor n extent of I night, and ith point of )iain took its '. ; Dean*8 jave up the |rsn towards Ito be a new lectlv drawn >verIooked : I have fre- iral islands, link that it of Dean's )n astrono- ig a space -".'';f*/ w MB .i^ Kroa^stam* M- ■^^•:^... ••••I 16' 14 8' W 4 9 - - ^. 9. Islands spnt bjr ttar *-. ..^ Kmirk y^ 141 eHNutud Han mtktrlfiatt^a Ma i^ ttarSmlr Omr.i •//nr tttrtf/f I 1- (urirk - r ^ b ■k:-^y- ■ v" l\ LPnUiBers y^ ^i^ W.\WMfc>-/f'im^£Mdll^»C>JM* OmTlkiiffStntMomdm . Bi|^«nA l>7 a-lSmXX fc laKSM.t mmt T m' « 'fl *n 1 , IX, ,'*v*<:> ^\ 'W ^^. Doubtful m^'^ i -. If i: ,.== 1 14 16' BmxnabyaiateiA*: aoiii.»8t.miMia T ifcaoKSM.t Kolsebtte** Vtygt mind lh§ Wwli, ftt LatHudt of the cart point of DtuC* Iiland 15* Iff Vf S. Longitude 1*7 1^ 00 W. Latitude of the loath point U 29 SO 8. Longitude 147 19 SOW. Latitude of tlie wett poUit IS 00 00 8. Longitude— I4» W OOW. We loon reaclMd the land in W., which like#iie oontiyted of amall oond islands, connected hy reefs, and estouding thirteen miles, fron N.N.E. to S.S. W. ; this nat also the largest group Ubat formed the circle, in the middle of which was alarcre [hasin, with a woody island in the centre, which particuhirTy fdistinguisbes the cluster. This group, which is undoubtedly n new discovery, is nsmed after the gentlemen with whom I bad made the first voyage round the world, KrusensUrn^ At noon we had an excellent observation ; the N,W. point of the Kru- senatern Islands lay to our west, Dean*s Island was seen in the east, takingr its direction to N.E., where it disappeared on the UioriEon : taking our course towards the N. we sailed between fbotb, and were very glad to have escsped this labyrinth of islands, in which so many sailors had bst tlieir lives. Had not the weather favoured us so much, we should have been exposed many. dangers, and our astronomical obtervatiooa iroukl.not lave deserved the same conBdenpe, had not the sua assisted us all hours. A storm, or dull weather, is in these seas the in- evitable ruin of a ship; and even the possession of an exact :hart of these islands would be of no avail, the currents being itrong, the land low, and the wind too violent to tack about, [if A vessel should have the misfortune to come near a coral reef. [The depth of the sea, at a distance of 200 fathoms, couH not '>e ascertained, consequently the lead will not warn asuinst the langer in time, for at 60 fathoms distance from the ishtnds, tlic lepth is dO fathoms, and immediately after no ground is to be bund. Notwithstanding all these dangers, I should have liked io have remained here a few days lonser, in order to have fi- Dished the survey of some groups, if the necessity of being i(withui a certain space in Baring Strait bad not made time too valuable to me; thus^ agreeably Iq iostruction, I took my [■course N.W. towards the region M'here BaumanJi*^ Islands j are supposed to be. Latitude of the centre of Krusenstern Islands-- 1 S*. 00* S. Longitude - — - 148 41 W. Declension of the needle -...- . S 37 £.t During the night the wind blew a gale from N.^.| accompav w Kotzebue*s itn/agt round the Worti. Kll nied by rain, amd we tboUgbt ourselves very fortunate in being out of tiie coral islands; but .seeing, noLwithstanding this gale, that the sea remained smooth, \re haul reason to suppose land in N.B.* and therefore used very little sail. On the 28th, lat. l«« 3% long. 154^ 38', at six o* clock in the evening, ve were on t|ie spot wjiere Baumann*s Islands are said to be, without perceiving the least sign of land ; we steered N.W. to pursue the line where the islands of Rogsewein and Penhoven are supposed to be, but also without finding them ; which makes me conclude that these islands, the existence of which had already been doubted, are not actually to be found. I then directed my course towards Penrhyn's Islands, which had only been seen by their discoverer at a distance, and have not been examined since. .But, as this would make our voyage longer, I was obliged to reduce the allowance of water to one bottle a head per day. On the 3(Uh, in the afternoon, we sew Penrhyn's Islands, which we found, likli ajl other coral islands, forming a circle, connected by reefs, irom the lake in the middle ; many rocks were also seen above the water. We were surprised to see these islands covered with thick forests of cocoa'-trees, and our astonishment was agreeably increased when we perceived, by the columns of smoke issuing from them, that this small and distant group was inhabited. With our telescopes we could even see the people running about on shore, and the setting sun only induced us to postpone the farther investigation till the next day. We tacked about in fine weather, while innu- merable quantities ot bonitos surrounded our ship. On the 1st of May we brought the Rurick under the wind ; at eight o'clock we were in calm water, within a couple of miles from land, and then distinctly saw a great many people on shore, actively en> gaged in putting their boats to sea, while some from the other islands were already approaching in theirs. The population, with reference to the size of the land, is disproportionate, so that I cannot conceive how tliey all find food there. On see- ing a number of boats coming towards us, we came-to: some of the boats, which carried from 1 2 to 18 people, had sails ; in each of them was an old man, probably the commander of the rowers, for he was sitting gravely, with a wreath of palm>. branches round his neck, holding up in his left hand a palm, branch, as a sii^n of peace.- When the boats had approached us, within a distance of 20 fathoms, they stopped and began sinking in a very melancholy strain ; but, after this ceremony, they fear- lessly came nearer, yet without coming on-board. We were, however, cruetiy disappointed in our expectation of meeting ¥. W cc fai wl la ^^' Kotzebue*:* Vintage round the World. 129 unate in being iding this gale, uppote land in ; o*clock in:the [stands are said id ; we steered ogsewein and finding them ; e ekisOence of y to be found. Islands, which lice, and have ike our voyage f water to one hyn's Islands, 'ming a circle, 1} many rocks irprised to see trees, and our perceived, by this small and tpes we could ind the setting irestigation till r, wbile innu- ). On the 1st t eight o'clock rotn land, and s, actively en- rom the other e population, jpofftionate, so re. On see- me-ta: some , had sails ; in ander of the ath of palm- and a palm. proaohed us, began singing ny, theyfear- We were, n of meeting with fresh provisions, for they brought nothing but unripe co* i^coa-nuts, which they offered to barter for old nails and pieces . pf iron ; however, to profit something by them, I allowed every one to supply himself with the manufactures of the savages, as far as be liked. The Rurick was soon surrounded by 26 boats, which we kept on one side of us, my crew not being sufficiently strong to protect the ship against the greediness of 300 savages. ; The trade was carried on in a very lively and clamorous man> ner; many boats, in their endeavour to be foremost with their soods, upset, but the most violent quarrel always ended with laughing and joking. Those who could not approach theRu- ^'irick, ou account of the crowd, amused themselves in their boats iwith singing and dancing ; their droll movements, and particu- "' larly their skill in making faces, gave us much amusement. The exchanges were effected by means of a rope, to which they fastened their goods without mistrust, and waited pa> i tiently for their payment, which was conveyed to tbem in the ^ same way. One of the chiefs, who got up so high on the side of the ship that he could reach to look over the castle, was pulled back by the legs by the others, amidst lamentable screams; but, when he had got back again into the boat, they surrounded him, and with a great many gestures be told them of the wonders which he had seen, shewing, at the same time, ^the presents which we had made him, to reward his courage. I hy degrees, the boldness of the islanders increased, they stole as much as they could, and, at last, went even so far as to threa- ten us. Unacquainted with the superiority of European arms, they grew bold by their numbers, which they shewed by their wild cries. At last I was obliged to have a musket fired, which had its effect: in the same instant they all jumped into the sea, in which they disappeared. A death-like silence followed the [monstrous noise, and an immense grave seemed to have swaU powed them all, till, by dejjrees, one head after the other ap- ^pseared above the surface. Fright and terror were depicted m ^every face; they looked carefully about them to see what mis. I -chief the report had done, and, when they found that there ■ was none, they returned into their boats; but they were more orderly. Nothing pleased them belter than large nails, for w^iich they sold us some lances of black wood, very neatly made, with some other arms. These islanders resemble in size and strength the inhabitants of the Marquesas; their faces, too, may be something like them, although those of the Marquesas seemed to me to be handsomer and whiter. Of the women I cannot judge, having seen only two of them, who were old and very ugly. They have the happy cheerful temper of the other Soulh-Sea island- 80 Kotzebue's Voyagt round the World. . *i - (,• mU \ l\ i "ill! mU ers, but tliey are rather more savage in their conduct. It is re. tnarkable that these blanders are not tattooed, in which they deTiate from all the other South. Sea islanders, particularly as they are so near the Friendly Islands, that they either have their Origin among them or they have been driven here from the Washington Islands. However, not to be altogether without ornaments, most of them have scratched stripes down thetr backs, which gives them, with their long matted hair hang- it>g over tliem, n disgusting appes^rance. With the excep- tion of a few, who wear a girdle of badly-made stuflT, they are all naked. They wear their nails long, and they form pro> bably the principal ornament of the chiefs, for I saw several who had them near three inches long. The Penrhyns do not possess the tree from which, in most of the South-I^a islands, they make their dresses ; which is a proof that they have no connexion with the Friendly Islands ; yet they understood some words of their language, which we repeated, borrowed from Cook*s Voyages. Their boats, which are badly made, resem- l>)e those of the Marquesas, having also the balaneiers, and carry conveniently twelve men ; the sails, made of coarse mat- ling, are only fit to sail with the wind. Whether the islands produce any thing besides cocoa-nuts, I cannot say; of these, however, judging by the number of trees, there must be a great abundance. Through the telescopes, we saw many wo- men walking on shore, who were admiring the ship from a great distance; we did not perceive a house, but we saw a stone wall, ■which was very well built. Of the fresh provisions which we had taken from Conception, we had now left but a small pig, which we shewed to the siirages, who seemed to know it, and wished to get it. We at last counted thirty-six boats, carrying three hundred and sixty men, wirose number woukl have in- creased if we hail stayed here longer, for we saw already seve- ral canoes coming toM'ards us. 1 should have liked to have gone on shore, but could not venture with my few people, the sa- vages being so numerous and bold. Towards noon, we had a violent thunder-storm, just when I was about quitting the islands. The savages, far from being frightened at the thunder, had fastened their boats to our ship, and endeavoured to draw the nails out of it, making, at the same time, such a noise, that it was impossible to hear the word of command. To get rid of tlu 17' 46" N., long. 177^ 5', we saw, ong many sea-birds, one land -bird, but could see no land, en from the mast-head; which made us conclude that it lay ry low. The thermometer stood for some days and nightii •on 23* heat. In the night we killed a dolphin of seven feet ng, the flesh of which we found excellent, having been so tag without fresh meat ; its taste was something like that of ef. On the 19th we were between the parallels of 8 and 9 degrees, search of the Mulgraves, where Arrowsmith has placed them his chart. At three o'clock p.m. , according to our account, ^e cut the chain in lat. S** 45' 52" N. without seeing a trace of 1 m If ! 33 Kotzcbue'iii Voyagt round the World. land. Our longitude, according to our chronometers, the cor- rectness of which we had proved but the day before, was ISI* 4YI4''. I steered fifteen miles west, thinking that the longi- tude of the islands on the chart might be incorrect ; but, not finding them in that direction, I turned tiie vessel again to the north. The chart seemed to me to be incorrect, as the opening between 8 and 9 degrees must be larger, since it was impossible to cut the chain vrithout finding land; an opinion in which I was confirmed, when, on my return, I spoke to Mr. i\rrowsmith in London, who told me that he had drawn the Mulgrave's chain on his chart upon the uncertain accounts of traders, even Captain Gilbert's Chart having given nothing clear about them. On the 20th we still continued our course to N.N.W. and at noon, found the lat. 9«» 26' 21% long. 180" 19' 6" W. I entirely gave up the plan of sailing any farther north, steering direct to west, because, judging by the chart, I still thought I might find the chain in this parallel. In this direction 1 sailed for thirty.five miles, without seeing any thing. Having no further time to lose, we steered with full sails to N.W.N. , straight for Kamtschatka ; and it was not until the following year, that I saw, what dangers we had escaped in that dark night, having sailed through low groups of islands, within a very short distance of them. On the 21st we saw land in N.W., consisting of several islands, resembling the Rurick-chuin. At two o'clock, being yet one mile and a half from their south-point, we saw some smoke rising from among the cocoa-trees, and, pursuing the N.E. side of the chain to N., perceived a multitude of people on shore, staring at our ship. We had to double a long coral-reef, conncvtcd with the islands, running far out into the sea, and scarcely visible above the surface. We were soon in the high sea,' in culm water, and sailed towards the small island in S.W., whilst at 200 fatiioins from the reef we could not find the bottom with the lead. It began to grow dark when we approached the small island, where we also saw people, and in the same moment another group of islands was seen from the mast-head in the S.; but we were obliged to defer our investigation till the next day. The situation of all these islands will be found in the annexed chart. On the 22nd of May we steered towards the land, but could not reach the spot where we had be.in yesterday, till nine o'clock, the current h;wing driven us, during the night, far W. pn the island, the north-side of which was covered with a beau- tiful grove of cocoa trees : we saw several people in a large d. neters, the cor- ifore, was 181* r that the lungi. rrect; but, not vessel again to icorrect, as the er, since it was ; an opinion in I spoke to Mr. had drawn the ain accounts of given nothing to N.N.W. and )o 19' 6" W. I north, steerinw I still thought 1 irection I sailed ig. Having no Is to N.W.N., II the following ed in that dark lands, within a >ting of several I o'clock, being ;, we saw some pursuing the ide of people on long coral-reef, to the sea, and oon in tiie high island in S.W., hnd the bottom we approached nd ill the same I the mast-head nvestigation till Is will be found and, but could rduy, till nine e night, far W. cd with a beau- pie in a largti Kdtzebue*s Foyagt round the World, boat, Tvhich soon came sailing towards us. We immediately came-to, and admired the clever construction of it, and the skill with which it was managed. The boat stopped at a distance of 100 fathoms from us. It carried nine islanders, who showed us fruit, and intimated by signs that, if we came on shore, they would supply us with plenty. We were astonished at the modest behaviour of these people, so different from that of the Penrhyns, and this could mso\y be expected in a south-sea- island, which had never been visited before. They were all unarmed, and ajppeared in the greatest subordination ; the chief sat cross-legged on the left side of the boat, upon an elevated . seat, placed upon the balancier, and covered with coloured . ' mats, his head being adorned with flowers and s|hells. They looked at the ship with astonishment and curiosity, pointing at I the objects which pleased them most, and talking loudly among themselves. When I found that all our endeavours to draw them on.board were ineffectual, I ordered a boat to be lowered, hoping that so small a craft would appear less frightful to them. Their astonishment was very great, when they saw it descend .| from the Rurick. I' boats, dhd'but the 'first group >gQther '6ccuj[>y ir situation may ilihel we ibuhd ers, ip^ y'iZ% oVioick we had bwards Kaihts. jrudent'not to our time' lyas imstahces could od'sprote^tioh. 97»31)'. The iven me' tliree ^ and 6ne'wii;h ch on land had I was commis- rossing of the at the, second J to St. P^ters- a w ay to a'tlojv link calculated cause of both ipg the tropic nd the second Idy, we hiade r*» table. We Kot^}»^ikVojfagt round the If^orld^ * all fpijwd t^t it n^igl^t be ratable in 9MC of ncceaji^y, bji^ tl^at i( v^i^ raJtfa^er disagreeably in ^a^te, aiid the physitii^n dje^iLir^jl it to be unwholesome, oh account of the mai;c)(;ial9 being hqjlf spt^^e4, piufticulfirly tjhe. cabbage* wb^ch, c6htaihjn| ml, bad beqpj^njB rahcia and injuijiou3 ty heijl,th j the 9?e{^t whi^h ^a^ted, ]||f:e spoilecl cod, h^ aljso lost al^ its nbtri^io>us qtiialit^es. tn Qfl t^ie 3d in lat. 3i"49', long. 2p0? 15% we ssi^ a grea^ many ^ea-b^r^?, p,articv^|arly firop^v-birds, passing W us'.' ^f be colour of t|ifi ^aier haq, si^ce ^oon,, uecotne so dirty, that, to.^ard^ four oVtoc^ ?*M. , ie'^ring to be upon &, shallow, | bad the pli^a^nvpt throwi^ q^t, without finding the bbttoipi in 100 £at|i9|in^. w* ^sc^^cbolz, who (egiilar^y, every iio^n, ipxamined the, t^iitRpfaitur^ of the surface of the s^a wit|]| the thermometer, ^QV>nd it ^his moment 21" colder : a proof that thp depth pf iU^ sea had cpq;|if(erably it^crea$^c| sipce (hat time, aod that we. pro- bably ifr^fe xkCAT^ ^ome unkpowh land, which the thick fog tha|: siirifounded us kept concealed. I^iiripg the nigh'^ the wutef: i^^d feassum^d its usual colour. Qn ^he 13th we had a Violent ^\9m fjcom |^«Mf* in \^» 47**, wl^iqi brought ^ifch inten|ie cold, tpa]: lumps of ice feel ^owp upof) deck frofj^ tlie rigging V ^pi^ ^^^fJB^ ^^ ^f!?P^r^'"'^^ ^P felt ^he mqre senf jbly^ haying bad for s'pme mqpihs past, fjay ^f?^ night, $4? of warmth. o^inciB we had jeft tbie pari^^el 33 f, wp vfer^ p(H]i9tfqitly surrounded by fpgs. On the l^^lj i^e s^.^ ^pe coasjt of plan^tsclfat^ covered wit)i sftftlj^anjiice. On the IQth we saijed tq^tyards A^yatscjia ^ay. upwards poon, as we lypre apprps^ch|ng it, we pj^rce^ved ifpon t|ie (jigh xpcksb^ ^he nor^-side, ^ telegrapf^ in full wo|rk, an ijinexpected *'gh^ ?n t|?f^ regions, it annouqced th|^>r|rival of ships to the commandant of ^jBter-Paufs Fort, who by this ii^e^ns gains sufficieift d^e tp9,eh|^ ouf |ljoa^s, jiyith anjcWs apd ropes, tp qneet ttem a^ the narrow entrance of Awatscha Bay, where they are o*. gFe*^t servicfl. Wp were slpwly tpwed in|to the hagr^ur, vrmfo yre ^^t anphor at twelve o'clock at night. Winter, ^V'^*?» ** i' W W» ^^ ^en unusually long ^^s ye^r, yet reigned all Vpijnd, auj^ we in vain looked fpr a greep spot. TPP day ^ter puf arrjyal, our chronometers gaye t^ [pngiutpde of the harboufapjl* ly 30*, the t^ue lopgitpde being, ^ccprd- ing to the observation of the astronomer Horn, 201** Iff 40*. as Itof Mbiitt's ^^aie rmk tta ii^oiU. This small Jiflfercnce sl^owed the accuracy of our chrotiometerili and that all the longitudes in our voyage may be received with implicit confidence. My' first care was to repair the Rhridk» which had greatly suffered by the storms, particularly the copper, for which Lieut. Sudakofy the governor, gave us the copper of the old ship Diana^ the same in which GoloWnin had undertaken the voyage to Japan, and which, on account of its shattei^ed state, he had been obliged to leave here, continuing his journey to Russia by ]and. By the Activity of the governor, our ship* was in a short time ready to sail. Since I was here with Capt. Krusenstern, the state of Kamtschatka has b^en greatly improved, which is chiefly to be attributed to the same governor, who has done more to benefit the country than all his predecessors. Oh the 1 5th of July our ship was ready to sail, and we were waiting only for a favourable wind ; the crew were in excellent condition, except Lieutenant Zacharin, who had been sickly during the whole voyage; which obliged me to keep the watch in rotation with Lieutenant Schischmareif, a service iytinlr which the Commander of such an expedition ought to be ex- enipt, having so much other em][iloyment. This is, certainly, the first voyage of discovery which has been sucrehsfully c0m« pletedbytwo officers only. Lieut. Zacharin bding obliged to stay here, r had only one officer left to contiiiue my dbiirse to Baring Strait ; which, however, did nbt make me 'waiVe 'tby resoFutibn, as his zeal, like mine, remained uhdhnihished. l only te^rettied, thalt the hope which I at first ehtei^ained hnd becn'ffusti^ted, there being but little prospect of aiccomplt^iU^ much in Baring Strait, since one of us had always to' stay on board. Mi-. Wormsidoid, too, wished to c6htiuue hei^e,' in order to. exami,ne the lofty hills of Kamtschatka, for which |lur- p6Jse' I recommended him to Lieiit. Rndokof. Mjr crei# of twenty were rather too few for the enterprise in 'Barihg Stiralt, I tlierefbre obtained six additiotial nien from the garrison, whdm Ipron^ised to bring tiack the next j^ek^r ; besides an Miouiskan 6f trie Rusito-Am^rican Company. Foi' tbc^ bfiMy readers who aire fond bf scientific objects, I add, in iid^clusion of my fi^st year's voyage, a table'giving d^e ten^pehit'ilire of the sea in various depths. The observ^tiorfs hai^e'l^een made very dkrefully, with a good Six's thermofmeter, add I warrant their Correctness. The divisions of both the Six's thermometer, and our other, are after Farenheit. As such obsenhations, when made in a boat, require it tibouM be a ptei'- fecl c6lu), they are rarely undeirtaken by manners. ■/■^ chrotiometenly received with h mi gtakiiy t which Lieut. ' the old ship Len the voyage t state, he had Y to Russia by was in a short . Krusenstem, 3ved, which is who has ddne iors. , and we were re in excellent id been ^ickTy e to keep the a service fydntr light to be ex- s is, certainly, re&sfally cOm-' ^ing obliged to I my dbiir^ to me waive ihy dhninished. 1 ntei^ained tntd accompltiihiH^ 'ays to stay on iiiue he^fe,' in or which pur- ehterprise in men from the ;yek^r3 besideis tiiic objects, I >le' giving the observ^tiorfs thermdiMeter, of both the leit. As such uM be a pet' •€ \ •9. Smmi^aaMttt J^ IM • ■ ■ I ' ■ xfA ifrs in K) / Otbart \ Behkis^g's Strait, l|Mril7 lorniuf. loon. Ipril 19 »yi9 Ml 16 6 Dtfre* of warmth apoalbelintbcdcptl raific* I of th* ua. N«»b.r.Tj3y«; offithoiM •Tdtpth. The AtlMtlo. 68. A W> 1 M,0 78,5 79,0 80,0 60,0 63,5 74,0 61,0 V-7 fro l»0 S8,8 08.6 67,5 68,0 79,0 79,0 78,0 73,0 50,0 55,0 63,0 53,5 50.5 56,8 50,7 43.0 Plae* of the khip. ■tinoi* pii6fe> 100 71, 1 198 73,5 96 Cbp9 Honi* 186 • 57, 6 Soulb Sea. 135 79, 3 175 — 135 80, 10 79, 8 80 — 60 — 100 70, 8 300 — On the Equator. 300 I 83, Northern Ooean. 100 300 10 36 100 300 75,0 68,0 latitade. North. 800,37 39*. 4 SoMth 44<», 17 18,17 16P,afl' 16,36 North. o _ 39,34 87,3 leafitade. Tram* parenry eflhe water, Weat. 130,57 130,8 Weat. 57,31 134,56 133,43 133,43 Sontli. 177,5 190,36 199, 17 = = 10 10 8 13 13 10 14 ID 3 ^ [After having dispatched the accounts of our first year*« '^yage to the chancellor, by express, and hftving waited in vain the post from St. Petersburg, which usually arrives about 1 tiine of the year, we left Awatscba Bay, notwithstanding the jtraVy wind. rom KamUehatka to the newfy discovered Kotzebue-Sound, id Barihg Strait. — On the 20th of June we saw Baring's fnd, whose rocky snow-covered heights bore a cheerless set. On the S.W. side of it is a small rocky island, which not yet been mentioned in any chart. Our observations ire us for the northern point, lat. 50® 22f IT, long, by the tonometer, 194*» 4' T ; for the S.W. point, lat. 55* iT lg», 'g. 194* 6' 3T. Front this island 'we steered towards the itern part of St. Lawrence Island. The 36th lat. es* &, |g. 171*^ 43*. In our approach to Baring*s Land, we lost fine weather, and we now had a thick fog with a constant iszling rain* laving made no observation since we were at Baring's wd, our situation by the chart was uncertain ; but, by the 4 ap KoUcbue^s Vqnage xqim^th^ W^M- ship*s.q,Q90.i2,i]iX,^ yrcs yccre near St. Lawrence-island, SO miles off its S.W. point. At ttjree o'clock, the fog having cleared up a Kkttc;,, we disco^er^ in the-K.E.^ ^^'i.^l!'? ^^i^.P^Hof ahfll^ which V9» wnnwidiiiately Imt ^ga^in in th^ ^ i ve wei^e ql:|lT|[ed| to, \^ck Um the WBWtniaer of t^ 4ay and dqring the^ v^i?^ of the night, using the pluinmet ai our guide. The barometer, during this bad weatjher, wa& alwava veicy h,igb.. ^twith- standing all the care we took in excluding the. rats, wh^ ||pe I^Ufrick w^ buSt, we discovered one' to.(tay ppon deck. A chaset being iwimediately ordered, we kijlled ths^t and twq others, whic!ii had probably got in at PetemPaql's harbour ; tbeife ^.^ipg maay of those vermiq at that place, but w^er? th^y hi^ ^^A^ be^n seen before the arrival of the Npdeshola ; so tlis^t I i;^ probably ordered the death qf the descendant^ of my former travellingvcompanions. Oil the 27th, the fog «tiU continuing, I r«^qlved tp ^a|^e q^ course straight for the land, having frequently qaade the. experi- ment, that, with a high stanq of the barometer, the weather is fine on shor^, while there is a tl]|ic^ fog a piile oiftl^e coast. Ten fathoms* depth soqn fnii^pqpc^^ that we were near jt ; the. fog disappeared, and we saw th« sqn ahiQing qpop a nqbie range qf sr^owy hills. The pearest c^istance ^om shpre was two miles, the extent of the country ii| £. and W. being hiddei^ by the fog s but tl^f) Hujrick was li^fe witjiip a smftl| piNtn bay. On shore we saw people and tent«, and I rfi^olved to take tliq opportunity of getting acquainted with the inhabitaqts of an island which had never been visited bsf^i^* y^^ '^ITflf^^ ^^^ boats, and \>'e al) started IV^H 9rm^^, We did not ventii|r(e'to copie to ancho|r i|| thi^ op^n b^y> anfl the fturipk remained wwder sail. T|^e lyind |)lowing gsn^ly ^rorp S.W. obli^^ the Rurick to stand fi l||;tle far|:her frpp) }atid, and we soon ]qst sight of her in the fog. At a short distance from snorep we fell in with a baj/dcrpf p^irryfng ten is)ap(|^r9| whq feaflessl;^ ap. pro^ched us, shoMMpg ^na beckp^ipg with ,th§ inost sjnjgy^r grimaces^ and hqlding up tp us blaofc fp^es* skins. We per- ceived, that they h^d ^rms cpnceal^d iQ their b^ydare^ and were, therefore, on our gufird. Aft^r /^ogif salutations^ whic|i consisted in their strolfhig then^^elvps, with bpll? fian^s^ several times, fropn the face to the ^torpach; (heir first ;iyprd was fobacco/ We gave them some leaves, w)^ich t^)§y in^piedjatiely put'iii the|r mouths ; afterwards I saw t^em smpj^ii^g it fjrpm small Mone pipes, about ithe sis;e of ^ th^pobl^ : jthey r^tu^necj niy pir^sents by presentii^g me with seyeral articles pf th,eir mani}liacture. Aft^r this short intercourse I continued my course to the shqre^ wbiph seemed to frighten tliem very much, for jthey ran about U4ieiu>ily } ■Mvi wany, pr,vb,ably won^ii, ^cd to the jbil|s. Sp/o^u Offl] cone ihdti pecfi chUhj but, as ht ludic with oppos bbats Hvheh Indde ci^ltar bliibbf thfey alsb ?^ «ttlen ▼ited I thfei«\ tooed hdt iiti othtfru theiJi. tants ( dlih^^ mfm imst ^p^cts slJs; ie, biy tw and iv, Whil with t inWt6i grotirtt '^oses race, greater distrfbj ^tfceptj kbtaybttt!'* 'FiHfti^e Ymiid'tki 'iVoYld. 89 IS off up a rhich ; the leter, wi.tjhi- (. A thers, Eovnoer j jxpsri- itber i» > coast. Bt nQDle ire was ; hidd«n\ •e^nbay. take tne( ts of an sred two n^rjBto emained \\a^ the Boion Iqst e^ we fell Bssly ap- Wc'per- ts, which s.several ts tobdc€oI iiViiitM'^ n jf s^one riesents by re, Aft6r ?re? w^?P^ ran a|^out Ijs. Sqpic of ft«rft met tis i^ther ieourage6usly, 'dth^rs itroVfc in vain to conc«ial 'their fettr tinder tlie mask '«f 'hospitality ; at all our mdttdns they Ikii^hed iniYhodierilt^ly, but, isis soon as thejT nist. ptict^'the lelist hostility, th^iV countenances w^re visibly chiinged, and sothe prfepilred iFor flight, others fdr resistanc'e $ but, When tlity '^€5rceived their 'mistake, they were afs friendly as befbre ; tbeir quick irahdtidnfrotn tnirth to gravity had a liididrdus vedistingu)^e4 tl^e Kotzebue*s Voyage round the World, 41 r. id to a rough, >rthern iartily, Euro- resents t, wbo em ad- le most imaces, isisting while nee be- og soon we has- regret is island The it con- |w ; not except moss; a ere there s, which >nsi8t of ned with terwards chutschi. was evi- Nothing, e, which \x twelve with our Dout in a close by approach [he plum- is of fine p here till ;en me dn and tl en d and Se 1 no sun. y E. to N. uished the bay where we had landed the day before, by the small rocky island on its western part. It is placed in the J3.W. part of St. Lawrence. I took my course to the north, alone the shore; but, on account of the wind, advanced slowly j At ten o'clock in the evening, it being already tolerably dark, we-jaw^ three baydares, with eight or ten men in each, making towards us, which induced me to come-to, when they Immediately got on-board. Their behaviour evidently shewed that they had ne- ver seen an European vessel before. " The first that came upon deck I recognized to be my kind host, who immediately clasped me in his arms, and violently rubbed his nose against mine, at the same time frequently passing his oily band over my face. Ji rapid trade now began: within half an hour my sailors had exchanged buttons and similar articles for two hundred kam- iaikas (a name given in Kamtschatka to a species of dress made like a shirt, and sewn together with the intestines of seals, sca- lioiis, and morses). This dress, which is worn over the other clothes, protects them against the wet and damp, and is there- fore very useful in this climate. I have observed that in a damp air in all these regions the natives are in the habit of putting it on over their other warm clothes, and I myself have often ex- perienced its hv.: -ificial effects in this high northern climate. On the 29t^ eh breeze from the S.W. had separated us last night froii . ^^ rilaiiders. At day-break we saw the north point of St. Lftwience Island. The promontory is discernible by a rock, rising perpendicularly from the sea; a little to thesovth a small neck of land stretches to the west, which had a singidar appearance from xhcjiurtes (subterraneous dwellings) and rows of whalebones, which the natives had fixed perpendicularly in the ground round their habitations. Three baydares, with ten men in each, approached us within ten paces, where they stop- ped, chaunting in a pitiful voice; one of them, rising, spoKe some words in un energetic manner, and while holding up asaiall black dog in his hand, drew forth a knife, with which he stab- bed the animal, and then threw it into the sea. This ceremony being terminated, during which the others kept a profound si- lence, they came close to the ship, yet few only ventured upon deck. I found no difference between them and our friends of yesterday ; like them, they call themselves Tschikockot and the opposite coast of Asia, Wemen. After an hour we left St. Lawrence Island, taking our course towards Baring Strait, with the intention of visiting Norten Sound th e next jear. On the JOth of July, as soon as we hadj land, we were again enveloped in fog. island we had surveyed trigooometri^ ' termincd astronomically, the sun Voyages, Vol. VL G ■^* 43 Kotzebue*8 Voyage round the World* 11 :; I iion. Notwiibstaoding all the precautions which I had taken, our men tvere severely troubled with coughs and colds. Twice a day they drank tea, in their hold a fire was constantly burn- ing to keep it dry and warm, and they were never allowed to remain in their damp clothes after they were relieved from the watch. No Russian sailor would voluntarily take this precau- tion ; he would suffer his clothes to dry upon him, without fear- ing any il! efiects which might arise from it ; and I found great dinicuity in obliging them to adopt that measure. At four o^clock in the morning the fog disappeared ; the Isle of King lay before us, at a distance of eight miles ; and at eig^t o^clock we distinctly saw the Cape Prince of Wales and the islands of Gwozdeif, and even the coast of Asia. For the first time during our stay at Baring's Island the sun shone forth, and allowed us some observations, which still confirmed the ac- curacy of the chro 'ometers. They gave the longitude of King Island only by a few minutes' difference to that of Cook ; we found it 586 feet liigh. At two o'clock p.m. we were between the Cape Prince of "' 'ales and Gwozdeff's Islands, of which Qook's as well as all other charts give only three. The clear weather, however, en- abled me to discover a fourth, surpassing all the others in ex- tent, and which I named RatmanofF, after the lieutenant (now captain) of that name, under whose command I was during the voyage of Krusenstern. It is singular that this island was neither seen by Cook nor by Clark, both having sailed close by it; and I am of opinion that it has probably since risen from the ^cean. On a level, which stretches from Cape Prince of Wales west, we saw a number of juries together, with scaffoldings, made of whalebone, for drying fish. Our distance from shore be- ing only three miles, we saw crowds of people staring at our large ship, but without making any attempt to come on-board. Availing ourselves of the wind and the clear weather, I conti- nued my course along the level land extending to E.N.E.' from Cape Prince of Wales, and which was entirely covered with ricn verdure; there were no trees, but a few shrubs, and some snow on the top8«of the island hills. The numerous habitations that so thickly cover this coast, indicate an abundant popu- lation ; a baydare, which we saw under sail, took its course to the north, without making any attempt to come near oar ves- sel. I kept as close in shore as the depth of the water, which was scarcely five fathoms, would allow; and which made it impos- sible to overlook any deep bay or inlet. The depth gradually and regularly increases, so that at nine fathoms the land is scarcely visible ; therefore it is not surprising that Cook, who kept in ncventeen fathoms, never noticed this level. Kotzebue*8 Voyage round the World. 48 On the 3 1 st of July, after having continued the survey of the coast during the whole ni^ht, in clear weather, I cast anchor within two miles of shore, in a depth of jfive fathoms, perceiv- an inlet which I wished to examine more minutely. At four o'clock, accompanied by the naturalists, I left the Rurick in two well-armed boats, landing opposite our anchorage, near some habitations. We went towards the jurtes, which are built in a line along the coast, but were only welcomed by dogs, which joined us without any fear; they appeared of the same breed as those used in Kamtschatka for drawing sledges. We got upon the roofs of the jurtes without seeing any of the inha- bitants, who, more frightened than their dogs, seemed to have fled at our approach. The interior of their dwellings we found clean and comfortable. The approach on the S.£. side con- sisted of an opening three feet high, supported by wo^d, en- closed by an earthen wall on each side. On entering, we fourtd ourselves in a chamber seven feet high, as many in breadth, and ten feet long, the roof and sides of which were lined with wood. On the left was a drench the whole length of the chamber, filled with pieces of black blubber a foot square, and near it lay sieves with long handles, something like our fish-spoons. On the right side was a narrow channel of two feet and a half deep and seven feet long, through which we were obliged to creep to get into a passage of six feet high, but not broader than the channel. At the end of the passage was a deal parti- tion, with a round opening of one foot and a half in diameter in the centre, through which we entered into a capacious anti- chamber, ten feet square and six feet high ; the latter increased towards the middle of the ceiling, which had an aperture in the centre covered with a fish-bladder, so as to admit the light. On the wall opposite the entrance were fixed, a foot and a half above the ground, broad deals, for bedsteads, which occupied about a third part of the space ; and against the other walls small ladders were placed horizontally, being used as shelves for their utensils. The walls and ceilings were made of small rafts, the visible sides of which were planed. All the other houses were built after the plan of the one here described, which must have belonged to a numerous family, having, besides those above-mentioned, two small side rooms. The floors were raised three feet above the ground, between which were cellars for provisions, or probably used as dog-kennels ; the walls and floors were likewise made of wood, and they had windows, but no bedsteads. Several utensils and other neatly-made articles, belonging to the inhabitants, lay scattered about their dwellings, among which I particularly admired two small sledges, very prettily made of whale and morses' bones, affording a proof that i li'i ■Ht p It 44 Kotzebue*s Vcyagt round the World, the dogs were here used for ^rawing. After some investigation , ure found that we were on an isiand about eight miles long, and on the widest part one mile broad. Having crossed it, we dis« tinctly saw that the opposite continent formed a wide bay, where, on three points, the junction of the land could not bo seen* Although we could not expect to find a passage through this inlet, into the icy sea, we wished to penetrate tnrther into the country, with tlie view of gaining some very interesting information. The island, which lay immediately before the bay, formed, with the continent in N.E. and S.W., a small passage. We saw at this moment a large boat, probably made of skin, with black sails, entering into the bay through the S.W. passage, and disappearing in the east, under the horizon. This circumstance immediately determined me to penetrate into the bay through the N.E. passage, which appeared wider than that in S.W. ; therefore, getting into our boats, we sailed along the island towards N.E. I shall not enter upon any descriptioij of the coasts which v/e here discovered, referring the reader to the accompanying chart. We found the N.E. passage to be one mile and a half wide ; the depth of the middle of the navigable water eight fathoms ; the water, just rising in the current, ran into the Day with the velocity of three miles an hour. We landed at the N.E. point, where we made a iire, and within half an hour we had an excellent soup, made of the English pateut.meat» I found the utility of this method particularly instanced in our frequent excursions in boats, on account of its portability. We had just finished our dinner, when we saw two boats, built like those of the Alioutskans, each carrying only one man, coming towards us, with the greatest velocity, from the oppo. site shore. They approached our encampment within fifty paces, when they observed us attentively, communicating their observations to each other, and at last began counting us. All our endeavours to entice them to come on shore were useless ; they struck their hands against their heads, and then fell down on the ground, probably with a view of intimating to us that we should kill them if they came nearer. They could, how- liver, have no idea of fire-arms, us they were within musketi* shot, and a number of muskets were standing around us. The dress of these Americans consisted of whule-guts, looking very filthy, and having in their countenances a strong expression of cruelty and wildness. After mistrustfully observing us for some time, they threw a couple of arrows towards their dwellings, probably as a signal ; but we entered upon our course into the bay towards the east. On account of the many sand-banks fonped by thepurrent; ^nd ^Iso the current itself^ we advanced Kotzebue*s Voifage round the World* 45 fttion, > aod edis. bay, lot bo rough r into only a mile in three hours ; I therefore gave up the inveociga. tion for this year, with an intention of making it the next year with small baydares, which I intended to bring from the Aliout- skan Islands. For the present my time was too previous, on account of the short period the navigation lasts in Baring Strait. The bay I named Scliischmareff, after my lieutenant : 1 will not, however, maintain that this inlet actually forms a bay, but it probably divides the coastJand into several islands. I'he small island I named after our meritorious admiral, SaritscheiK On our return, having^oubled the northern point of this island, we saw two boats, with ten men in each, rowing with every exertion to overtake us, and who were evidently coming from the part whence the two baydares had been just sent to recon- noitre our strength. One of our boats had taken the start ; I was in the last with Lieut. Schischmareff and four sailors, and soon the Americans might have overtaken us. Their wild cries and the number of their arms gave a suspicious appearance to their celerity, and indeed we barely hud time to sieze our muskets, when one of their boats came beside ours, and two Americans began to attack it furiously : screaming loudly and making the most frightful grimaces, they threatened us with their arrows, while the second made every effort to come to the assistance of their^somrades. My sailors, having their guns loaded, only waited for the command to fire; I, in the mean time, threat* ened with my gun, by aiming at the savages; but this only made them laugh, and they merely waited for their companions, to begin their attack vigorously. Secured by superiority in our fire-arms, to which they were complete strangers, we quietly bore their insults, by only drawing our swords ; these bright arms, known to them through the I'schuktschi, had the desired effect ; they desisted, satisfied with following us to our ship. At our invitation, they came tolerably near, conducting themselves peaceably and with humility ; but, notwithstanding all the presents we onered them, not one would come upon deck. Their dress consists of short shirts, made of dog and reio-deer skins, some of them even going half-naked, finding a summer's heat of 22|° almost too much ; their hair is cut short, but their heads are always covered, a custom invariably obiierved on this coast ; under the lip they wear morse-bont:s, which give a disgusting appearance to their faces, naturally hideous ; upon the whole, they look much more ferocious than the inhabitants of St. Lawrence Island. We saw a great quantity of drifted wood on Saritschef}' Island, and, among these, trees of consi. derable size. Upon our anchorage, which is astronomically determined, we observed that the current constantly ran to ^,JS. {doug the coast ; thus, it is probable that the wood is im Kotzebue*8 Voyage round the World. ::l) drifted into Baring Strait from the south. With a favonralile wind and clear weather we sailed, during the night, at so little a distance from the coast, that the objects upon it could be clearly distinguished ; the chart which we made here, may, tliereibre, be fully relied on. At a distance of one mile from shore, over a sanay ground, the depth was regularly from seven to eight fathoms. I'hc land itself was every where the same ; low, covered with grass, here and there were hillocks, and, at a distance of fifteen miles, a high ridge of hills, free from snow. From the number of subterraneous habitations we saw, the coast seemed much inhabited. Longitude of our anchorage, by the chronometers, 166" 2+', observed lat. 66 <• 14'. On the 1st of August, we observed that the coast took a di- rection to the east, the land continuing to be low. At eleven o'clock we were at the entrance of a Targe inlet \ we lost the coast we had hitherto pursued ; and whilst in £. and N. we saw a lofty ridge of hills. Here the wind suddenly declined, and we were obliged to come to anchor upon a clayey ground, in a depth of seven fathoms; the nearest land from us lay in S.£., at a distance of four miles, the current running strongly towards the entrance. I cannot describe my feelings, when I thought that I might be opposite the long-sought-for N.E. passage, and that fate had destined me to be its discoverer. In order to get some idea of the direction of the land, I went on shore with two boats. The depth was gradually decreasing, and half a mile from shore we found only five fathoms of water. We landed without difficulty at the foot of a hill, which I immediately ascended ; from this I could see no land in any part of the strait : the high bills in the N. were either islands or a distinct coast ; for that both coasts could not be connected appeared evident, from this being very low, and the other very high land. From my hill I had a distant View of the land, which continued in a large plain, occasionally interrupted by morasses, small lakes, and a river, which, meandering in various directions, had its rise near us. As far as the eye could reach, every thing was green, here and there were flowers, and snow could only be seen at a great distance, on the top of the hills ; yet by digging six inches into the ground, all under this green sward was yet icy and frozen. It was my intention to have examined the coast in the boats, which, however, was prevented by several baydarrs coming along the shore, from the £., towards us. Five of them, with eight or ten men in each, all armed with lances and bows, landed near us. At the head of each boat they had a black fox-skin, on a long piole, with which they beckoned vUs, with loud cries. JVly men were ordered to keep themselveft eing had near Kot2ebue*s Voyage round the World, 4f ready for defence, while I, with our -scientific gentlemen, went ' to meet the AmericanH, who, at our approach, sat down upon the ground, like the Turks, in a large circle, by which it was intended to show us their peaceable intentions; two of the leaders had seated themselves aloof from the rest. Being well- arnied, we entered into the circle, and observed they had left the greater part of their arms in their boats, but hud long knives concealed within their sleeves: in their countenances were depicted mistrust, curiosity, and astonishment ; they were very loquacious, but we did not understand one word of their con- versation. 1 gave them some tobacco, doubling the portion to the chiefs, a present which they seemed to value very highly ; those who hud been among the first to receive some, were crafty enough to change their places, in the hope of getting it twice ; they both smoked and chewed the tobacco. It was truly strange to see this savage tribe sitting in a circle, smoking from white sfone pipes, with wooden tubes. It is remarkable too, that the use of this herb has been extended even to these distant regions; but it is from tiie Tschuktschi, in Asia, that the Americans receive it, together with European goods. The two chiefs I presented with knives and scissars ; the latter they ap- . fteured not to have seen before, and they seemed highly de- ighted when they found that they could cut their hair with them ; they were handed round for their inspection, each making trial of them upon his own hair. It was probably the first time they had seen Europeans. '1 hey are ab'.ve the mid- dle size, of strong, vigorous, and healthy appearance ; their motions are lively, and they seem much inclined to be jocose ; their faces, which have rather a wanton than vacant expression, are ugly and squalid, distinguished by very small eyes and high cheek-bones ; and on both sides of the mouth they hare holes, in which they wear morse-bones, ornamented with blue beads, which give them a terrific appearance. Their hair hangs down long, except upon the skull, where it is cut short; both head and ears are also ornamented with beads. Their clothes are made of skins, of the form which in Kamtschatka is called Parka, with this difference, that in the latter place it reaches down to the feet, whilst here it scarcely reaches down to the knee ; besides which, they wear long trowsers, and short halt- boots of seal-skin. Although the thermometer at noon pointed only to 50" of heat, these Indians had now their summer, and mostly went bare-footed and half-naked. They were collecting in crowds ; and, as I saw many baydares coming from the west, I thought it most prudent, in order that [ might not have to fight, with fifteen men against several hundred Americans, to return to the vessel, 4 48 Kotzebuc*t Foj/age round the World. thither our new acquaintances accompanied us with loud cheers, according to the celerity of their baydares. On the shore we perceived a round tower, built of stone, from 24 to 30 feet high, and six feet in diameter, and i much regretted that I could not exau)ine it. The Indians did not venture on. board, but kept close to the ship, selling us several trifles of their manufacture, for knives^ looking-glasiies, tobacco, &c. ; black fox.skiiis they would not sell for any thing but long knives. 7'hey understand dealing perfectly well, are much in- clined to bargain, consult among each other, and are amazingly E leased when they think they have cheated any one; but the eenest of all were some old women they had with them. During these transactions there was as much joking and laugh- ing as there could have been, if we had been among merry south* sea-islanders, instead of serious north-landers. Their arms consist of lances, bows, arrows, and a knife, in a sheath, two yards long ; this military collection, which they have always about them, shows that they are in constant warfare with some other nations. Their lances, mude of very good iron, are like those which are sold by the Russians to the I'schuktschi ; their glass beads too are of the same kind as are worn in Asia ; which show that they must be in trade with the latter. At seven o'clock 1 took my course with a gentle S. breeze towards the inlet. The Americans fol'owed us in their bay- dares, showing us their skins, and pointing out by signs, that we should hnd a great many of them in the direction we were sailing ; at the same time one of them frequently repeated the words — lanmce-ae, (pronounced like eu in French. — Transl.) while he was repeatedly pointing first to the ship and then to the inlet. The latitude of our anchorage, by the ship-account, was 60" 42' SO", longitude, by the chronometers, 164<> 12* 30^'. While we were at anchor, the current constantly ran to N.E. one mile and a quarter in an hour. At sunset, the Americans left us, and we sailed during the !)ight in an eat>lern direction, the increasing depth adding fresh vigour to our hopes. On the t^ of Augubt, at day-break, the man wliom I sent to the mast-head still saw an o|)en sea to the east. In the N. we saw high land, taking its direction to tlie £. being a continu- ation of that which we had seen the day before from our anchorage. Discovering in the S. a low land, taking its direction to the £. we could not doubt but that we were in a broad channel, and pur joy was increased by still seeing an open sea in the east. The wind turning round to S.E. we were obliged to tack. The 'weather was fine, the latitude at noon was 6t)^ 36' 18", the Jongitude 162'* 19'. At five o'clock f.m. we saw land from which Kotxebue's Fcyagt round tht World, Various points, and our hope as yet only rested upon an open space, Itetween high hills. < On the Sd| during the night, we reached this spot, but were obHged, on account of Uie duU weather, to anchor over a clayey ground, in a depth of eight fathoms. When the weather cleared up at noon, we found ourseWes before an iaiot, five miles broad, the shores of which consisted of a high rocky land, the passage remaining open as far as the eye coukt reach* At the same time the tide regularly changed, and the current run out with a jgreater rapidity than it entered. We heaved anchor, and sai^d towards. the inlet) but, having passed the strait, dropped asain over a clayey ground, in seven fathoms of water. The mnd which, on sailmg in, lay oA our right hand, was an island of seven miles in circumference* In the N. the sea was still open, but I somewhat despaired, when thtt sounding boat that I had sent out could no-wnere find above five or six fathoms of depth. I resolved to let my people rest to-day, in order to prosecute the examination with renewed alacrity on the following day ; and in the mean time we made an excursion to the island, which I called after our naturalist, Chamisso. I took part of my instruments with me. Respect* ing the declension of the needle, we obtained but imperfect results : on a low neck of land in the eastern part of the island, we found it to be !« E., the respective observations taken fronm the point of the island to the ship, and from thence to the island, gave the declension 2{fi W. ; the declension on.board by repeated observations gave 3 1^ 9' £. ; as this agrees with that made outside the bay, it may be considered as being the most correct. The island of Chamisso undoubtedly contains much iron, and this is the cause of our false results. From the top of the island, which is rather high, we had an extensive prospect ; the land in the S. seemed to meet every where ; in the N. we saw nothing but the open sea ; in the E. the island of Chamisso is separated from the main land by a channel, five miles broad in the narrowest part. The surrounding land was lofty and rocky, we saw no snow ; but the hills were covered with moss, and near the banks there was rich grass. The isle of Chamisso, where we were now drinking our tea, was of the same description. The weather was very fine, the thermometer standing upon 59** Fahren. (which it never reached outside the sound.) On the neck of land where we had been sitting, we found several subterranean cellars, lined with leaves, and filled with ssars-flesh ; this induced us to think that the Americans had made this one of their stations in their hunting expeditions, and which they had marked by a small pyramid, clumsily buil^ with stones. The island which has but one lauding* place, rises Voyages, Vol. VI. H 60 Kotxebue's Voyage round f he World, f if t' 4 almost perpendicularly from the water ; the rocks about It and tlie islands on the western side arc inhabited by niimberleHtt swarms pf sea.parrots, and the quantity of Cf^g-shells we saw during our rambles seem to indicate that foxes destroy their nests. Hares and partridges were plentiful, and cranes wxra seen resting upon the island on their passage. In spots, sheltered from the north-winds, willows grow to a height of three feet, the only trees we saw in Baring Strait. On our returning to the Tessel, we saw several seals, lying upon large stones on the west side of the island. On the 4th, at six oV'lock, A.M., I left the ship in a boat, accompanied by the lieutenant and our scientific gentlemen, provided with arms and provisions for some days ; before start, ing we took several altitudes, .ind found the longitude of our anchorage 161 <> 42*20'; the latitude, after several observation*, 66<^13'it5^ The weather was fine, and, with a gentle S.W. breeze, we doubled the cape before us, and then, coasting along, directed our course to the north. Fifty fathoms from the coast we found the depth from two and a half to three fa- thoms, over a very good ground. Ships may ride here as safely as in any harbour, to make repairs, especially as the depth in some places will permit them to lay close to the shore. At tioon we had advanced fourteen miles, when we landed, and took the altitude. The land was high and rocky, and from the summit of a hill, which we ascended, we discovered we were upon a small rock of ground, and that the land in the north seemed to join that in the east,— a very disagreeable surprise to us ; yet, thf total junction not being visible, we still enter- tained soiae hope, and took our course easterly towards the opposite coast : in the middle of the navigable truck we had from five to six fathoms* depth, which, however, so decreased on approaching the shore, that, for fear of running a-ground, I turned to north, straight towards the land, M'hich we had seen at noon from the top of the hill ; and, when we had approached within a hundred fathoms, we again had only one fathom of water left. It being late, and my people fatigued, I ordered the harcasse (boat) to anchor here, and with the baydare* we went on shore ; but, as this also could not entirely approach, we were obliged to wade through the water for a distance of twenty fathoms. Chamisso Island lay eighteen miles south of us \ every where, except in the east, there yet seemed some * A largR open boat, quite flat, made of sea-lions' akini. On shore the Kamtschatdales, and all (he N.W. American nations, use |t as a tent, which I have frequently imitated on my excursions with advantage. I had this baj^-* diueinads in Kaint»chaika, for the |>ur()UHe iif usin]^ it^n Saring Strait, Kt>Uebu»*s Voyagt rouffd thg World* ^. Wace open; we saw ihe hind, and I wa* obliged to yield my hope of finding the desired passage. I now thought, by not finding the water salt in the bav» that at least I should meet with some large riVerj uport which we might penetrate deep into the land. Here the land rises abruptly trom shore to a height of 120 feet, and then runs, as far as the eye cun reach, in a moss-cuvered plain; except upon the declivity of the shore, where there was some grass growing. In the night we had a storm and a heavy fall of rain, from which, however, we were protected by the baydare. On the 5th, the weaiher being unfavourable, I delayed the expedition to the east for a more auspicious day, and returned to the vessel. On the (itii, I examined tbe passage east of Chamisso Island, without finding above five fathoms of water in the middle of the navigable track. On the 7th, we set out again for the examination of the.eas« ttrn part of the bay, and at noon we had penetrated far enough to see that the land met every where^ within a mile from the end, the depth had already decreased to five feet, and we jgave up even the hope of finding a river. Happily we met with a landing-place, upon a necK of ground formed by the current, and, it being deep enough to approach with the burcasse, I resolved upon staying there that night. Near this spot were two small cabins, supported by four columns, a few feet high, covered by a morse's skin. These seemed merely intended as a depository for hunting implements and utensils, and we found some exquisitely finished arms in them. I took some arrows, leaving for them several knives, and a hatchet^ with the name Jiurick and the date cut on the handle. Probably this place is only visited in the hunting-season ; and the proprietor perhaps keeps rein-deer, thene being many horns of this uselul ani-> mal scattered upon the shore. The land rises gradually from the shore to a considerable height, and is covered below with rich grass, and on the top with moss. On the 8th, we experienced a stormy night; and, the next day proving equally unpropitious, we were going to return on- board, but scarcely had we proceeded half way before we were overtaken by a violent gale, which compelled us to return to our landing-place, where we lighted a fire with the drifted wood, which we found here in large quantities, tliat we might dry our clothes. It seemed as if tate had destined us this storm, in order that we might make a very remarkable discovery. During our stay we bad been wandering about for some time, without suspecting that we were walking upon ice. Dr. Eschshuiz, on a more extensive tour, now found, on a spot where a part of 58 Kot7.ebne\ Voyage round the Jf'orld. ' .N the bank had fallen down, that the intenor of the hill consisted of pure ice. On this information, we all provided ourselves with tools for digging;, and soon came to a spot, where the bank rises almost perpendicularly to a height of a hundred feet, and, still ascending, runs farther back. Here we suw the purest masses of ice, a hundred feet high, lying under a cover of moss and grass, and which could only owe their origin to a dreadful revolution. The broken part, which is now exposed to the effects of the sun and atmosphere, is dissolving, and a great stream of water flows from it into the sea. An incontestible proof that the ice which we saw was of a primitive construc- tion, may be inferred from the many bones and teeth of the mammoth, that have been discovered by the thawing of these masses, by which I al.o found a very fine tooth. We were, likewise, at some loss to account for a strong smell in this neigh- bourhood, resembling that of burnt horii. The stratum of these hills, on which, to a certain height, the richest grass is only half a foot thick, consists of a mixture of clay, sand, and mould ; from beneath this layer the ice gradually thaws away, while the former continues to nourish vegetation below, and thus, after a series of years, the hill will have vanished, and a green valley will flourish where it now stands. We found the latitude of the neck of land ee*' 1 5' 36" N. i here too we ob- tained an inaccurate result for the declension of the needle, viz. 13^ W. On the 9th, we returned to the vessel, where we learnt that, during our abi>ence, two baydares had approached her, but had immediately been driven away by a musket>8hot, according to the order which I had left, that, on account of the few men on- board, no Americans should be allowed to come too near. The bay I called, after our physician, Eschscholz. It seemed un- inhat)ited, and as if only visited at certain seasons of the ^ear, for the purpose of hunting. I have no doubt of there being a river among the lofty hills, which however I could not examine on account of the shallow. In the back part of Eschscholz bay, a range of very high hills is visible. The ebb lasts here only seven, and the flow five hours ; the water at full moon rises to six feet, has its highest stand at six o'clock P.M. ; and the cur. rent runs during the ebb one mile and three quarters, and during the flow one mile and a quarter, in the hour, — a dif- ference probably caused by the thawing of the ice ; the stream runs quicker out than in, sometimes as much as two knots. During the strong gale from S.E., on the 8th of August, the barometer stood upon 30. 00 inches. On the lOth, at four P.M., we left the bay, with a fresh breeze (torn S.S.E., directing our course to the land in the Kotzebue's Voyage round the JVorlct. 58 south, and came to anchor when it grew dark. The land ia the south lay at a distance of seven itiiles from us ; the depth was seven fathoms, over a clayey ground. Chamisso Island lay at N.E. 41" 18f miles, and a high hill, the top of which wa» similar to a cap, lay, from us, 82° N.E. We were visited by a baydare with eight people, one of whom we recognized as having seen before ; but these Americans treated us with great disrespect, oflPering to sell us only small pieces of rat and dog skins ; when they found that we laughed at these articles, they also began laughing, talked for some time among themselves, and at last advised us to put their morsels of skin in our noses and ears. They did not venture on-hoard, but were always on the alert to fly, and left us very well pleased when we had given them some knives. { On the 11th, at four in the morning, v.3 set sail, takingour course along the W.S.W. coast, thinking the examination to. wards the east unnecessary, having distinctly seen the junction of the land from the point of Chamisso Island. We soon ap- proached a cape, which seemed to me to be the entrance of a bay ; but, discovering my mistake on doubling it, I called it Cape Deception : thisj being formed by a high round rock, rising perpendicularly from the sea, is very perceptible. There were a great number of baydares near it, some of which approached to barter with us ; and, by their aptitude at cheating, I found that I had a double reason to call it Cape Deception. This time there were two young girls among them, who excited our attention : they had blue beads in their eurs, although their dress was little distinguished from that of the men; round their arms they wore stout rings of iron and copper; their long hair was made up in tresses, and wound round their heads. As soon as we had got round Cape Deception, the land became low, and was lost in the south ; at a great distance, in that direction, we saw high hills, and thither 1 bent my course, in the hope of fifnding some large river ; however, I was obliged to come to J anchor at two o'clock P.M., in five fathoms of water, on ac- * count of the decreasing depth. In the west, at a distance of six miles, lay a low track of land, stretching first to the north and then to N.E. ; in S.E. wc saw the high land of the neigh- bourhood of Cape Deception, and from thence extending to the west, where it becomes quite low. I ou«ht here to mention two hills, which served us as land-marks in our survey, they being higher than the rest. The one iay now S. E. l^^ from us, and could not be mistaken, on account of its tops resembling the ears of a donkey, from which it was named the Ass's-ears ; the second, the top of which is rather extensive, lay S.W. 47*» from uS| running in a horizontal direction, and representing ihe 3 11 (' ■ ( •I ■' J .64 Kotzebue^fi Foi/agi round (he IVorlJ). form of desolate ruins, of which but a few towers were fe-* mainin^ ; but these, I afterwards found, were stone columns,* resembling those found by Saritschelf on the coast of the \cj sea. This hill I called the Devil's Hilt. The wedther being fine, 1 immediately went oft' tvith two boats in the direction where we thought we could see an opening) but we had scarcely been 400 fathoms from the ship, when, a thick fog coming on,* we were compelled to return on-board. We observed the cur- rent run, with the- velocity of one knot and a quarter, seven i)ours out of the inlet, and four in again. On the 12th, the weather being again fine, we made a se- cond attempt to get to the inlet, but, owing to the decreasing depth, we were obliged to take another course,- and landed six miles from our ship, near a small river, which seemed to take its rise in the sea. The land, although rather high, was mar- shy. Here the company divided ; I with Lieutenant Schisch-f mareff pursued the coast to the south, in order to reach the in- let, if possible ; the naturalists went into the interior, in pursuit of objects for their studies, and the remaining sailors were to prepare our dinner. After a march of about four miles,- we reached a cape, where the land suddenly took its direction from south to west, rising considerably higher; from a hill I per- ceived in the west a broad arm, flowing from the sea into the! ]and, where it took a serpentine direction among the bills; I was desirous, if possible, to go up it in boats, and soon found that the depth, which even seemed to increase in the middle of the arm, was already sufficient for our boats near the shore ; its breadth was from a mile to a mile and a half; the current had its regular changes, running, in some places, at least two knots. We discovered, at a distance of three hundred paces, a cottage, from which an old man and a lad of sixteen, armed with bows and arrows, were coming towards us. About mid- way from this cottage they stopped on a hill, where they took a firm position, then bending their bows and aiming at us witb their arrows, the old man called out to us in a hoarse voice. Having three sailors with me, and fearing we should frighten them by our superior strength, I approached them alone and unarmed ; scarcely had they seen me without arms when they quickly threw aside theirs. We embraced each other heartily, brought our noses several times in close contact; and, to prove to them the sincerity of my friendly intentions, I n^de them several presents. Still they could not entirely conceal their timidity, and they began to be very mistrustful, when they heard nie call my companions;, they immediately aimed at them, vo- cifcrating as they had done before. I therefore sent back the sailors, and Lieutenant Schischuiaielf cauic alone. unarmed ^ Kotzebue*^ Fotfage round ih^ World. fi5 »vho mot with the same reception asl had. They then invited us both to their cottage. We entered into a small tent ot* morses* skin, built in the shape of a cone, where the wife, with two children, was sitting in a corner. Beside the encampment were two boats, one small, like those of the Aliou^^skrins, and a ]arge one, capable of containing ten people, which served them to carry the tent, with the whole family, from place to place. I saw by the skins, of which they had a large quantity, that they M-ere fond of the chace. The lad, a son of the family, with a pleasant lively countenance, expressed great curiosity, and seemed highly interested at our recording the names they gave to several objects, and at the same time was gratitred in repeating several words for that purpose. The woman seemed quite indifferent to all around her, except my bright coat-but- tons, which she endeavoured to twist off; but, not being able to effect this, she dispatched her children, who, wrapped up in skins, crawled about me like young bears, trying to bite them off. In order to save my buttons, I gave her a looking, glass ; but this created a violent quarrel, as they all wanted to Jook in it at the same time, for which it was too small : I at last interfered, making them look in singly, and each of them sought the stranger behind the glass, not recognising himself in it. The landlord now spread a morse's skin outside the tent, upon which he made us sit down, giving to each of us a mar. ten.skin, for which he received other presents in return, but he seemed to attach most value to our tobacco. The wo- man wore iron and copper rings round the arms, and beads in her hair. I wished to know of the old man how far the inlet might extend. He understood me at last, and explained his answer by the following pantomimic gestures: he sat down upon the ground, rowing quickly with his arms, which occu- {)ied him interruptedly nine times, as often closing his eyes and aying down his head in his hand ; by which I understood that it wopld take me nine days to reach the open sea by this arm; We now returned to our boats, accompanied by father and son, who went with us at my request. The old man was of the mid- dling size, strong'made, and of a healthy appearance ; lie had projecting cheek-bones and very small eyes; and, in common with the other natives of these parts, had the morses' bones in the holes under the under-lip ; these orihces look particularly disgusting when the bones are taken out, as the saliva constantly runs down the chin. They both accompanied us in light skin shirts, barefooted, and their heads shorn and uncovered. The father I should think was about forty years old. During pur walk we collected several of their words, which bore a great similarity to those collected by Cook in Norten Sound. Upon 56 Kotzebue's Voyage round the World. ill. V : I •■\ \i ;4 » ') enquiring how lie had got the beads, a knife, and lome other European goods, he pointed to the entrance of tixe 9iOund, where people come to them in boats, exchanging beads, tobacco, and wood for ti>eir bows and arrows, and for skins and ready-made dresses. Their method of dealing he explained very intelli- gibly : the stranger first puts some goods upon the shore and withdraws; the American comes, examines the articles, puts as many skins beside them as he intends to give, and he also withdraws; then the stranger, approaching again, examines what have been offered to nim ; if he is satisfied, he takes the skins with him, leaving his goods behind ; if dissatisfied with the bargain, he leaves the whole, again retiring, and waiting for an addition to be made by the purchaser. In this manner, I understood the trade is carried on without a word being ut- tered, and there is no doubt that the Tschuktschi procure from here the skins for the Russian trade. When my three sailors joined us, the Americans were so terrified that their friendly disposition prompted them to remain wiih us, and we pro- ceeded arm in arm joking and laughing, a disposition which the savages appeared to assume. Our conversation was interrup- ted by the appearance of an animal, in many respects resem- bling a squirrel, but much larger, and living under ground. In Siberia it is called Gewraschjca; the Americans, who make very neat summer-dresses from the skins of these animals, which are found here in great numbers, called it Tschikschi, (the sch, as every where else it occurs, is to be pronounced like the English sh, — Transl. ) We tried to catch one for our collection, and we should not have succeeded had it not been for the assistance of our friends, who laughed heartily at our awkwardness. While we were proceeding L perceived a snipe, and, wishing to ascertain whether our companions knew the use of fire-arms, I shot it. The report struck them with the greatest terror, ami they looked i\t each other, not knowing whether to run away or to stay; at length, finding they had suffered no per- sonal injury, they took courage enough to cast a timid glance at my piece; the old man, however, who had hitherto carried a musket, without knowing what he had in his hands, imme. diately returned it to its owner. The dead snipe, which he dared not touch, seemed to increase his timidity : the astonish- ment they manifested at this extraordinary event is indescrib. able. At a short distance from our encampment we met Mr. Chorisy tvith a book, in which he had sketched several Ameri- cans of the neighbourhood. Our friends were much pleased with it, but were perfectly astonished when Mr. C. had slightly sketched the features of the old man,* while we were walkings ihe lad was convulsed with laughter, when he sa\v his father^s the big Nat The ran nui tile wit |f-:il ^, other I where ^o, and •made Inteili. \re and >uts as lie also lamines ces the M with Kntzchae's Voyage round the IVorid. 57 niuline upon paper. Having arrived at our encampment, we imniediutely sat down to dinner, while our friends admired the many novelties they saw, particularly the use of the knives, forks, and spoons. We gave them some meat and biscuit, which they preserved. After dinner we embarked, taking our course towards the inlet. The natives, whom we had left upon shore, we perceived along time in the neighbourhood, carefully looking about, to see whether we had left any thing which they might secure. We sailed round the cape, which forms the entrance to the arm, and where the land suddenly takes its turn to the west. Our endeavours to advance far upon it were fruitless, as we were running every moment upon shallows. Nevertheless, there must have been a navigable track, the depth being often from two to three fathoms close to a shallow, and the current running two knots, at the same time. Even the shallows were formed by the current, which could not have been the case had the arm closed soon. The account of the American was there- fore probably correct, and this arm runs either into Norten- Sound or SchischmarefF-Bay. After having in vain perplexed ourselves in seeking a passage, we landed close to the nut of our friend, being all much fatigued. Beseemed to be frightened at our coming so near to him ; as be packed up his tent, and, with his family, quietly left this side of the shore in his large, boat. I saw him rowing upon the arm, sometimes to the right, sometimes to the left, probubly to avoid the well-known shallows; and, at last, after many windings, he landed upon the opposite shore, where he pitched his tent. The water in the arm had the taste of snow-water. The tveather to-day was exquisitely beautiful, not a cloud obscuring the sky, whose azure resembled that which is only seen in higher latitudes; the natives of Baring Strait may well say. Nature is truly beautiful ! — Towards the evening, the sentinel announced eight baydares under sail. The visit was intended for us, as we had seen them some time before, setting sail from the neighbourhood of Cupe Deception ; however, our arms being in good order, we waited for them without apprehension. The baydares, each carrying twelve men, landed near the south cape of the arm, just opposite to us, within the distance of a short mile, where they were dragged on shore to be used as tents. The Americans lit several fires, round which they laid themselves down ; the dogs, of which they had a great many, ran about the shore. Motwithstanding our disproportionate number, (there being only fourteen of us,} we could not forego tile repose we so much wanted ; I therefore placed three sentinels with load<:d muskets, with orders to fire on the least suspi> Voyages, Vol. VI, I 58 Kotzebiie's Voyage round the World. i K -'I cion^ while I laid doM'n on the ground with the rest, our loaded guns lying by the side of us; the savages seated themselves round their fires, bawling and beating upon drums. Fearing s6^ great a loss of time, i postponed the examination of the arm for the next year, when I hoped to continue it by the means of baydaies from Unalaska. 1 named this the Bay of Good Hope, because I had actually reason to hope that I should make valuable discoveries in it. The shores on the north side of tt}e aim rise to a considerable height, but the far- ther they reach in that direction, the lower they prove, and a multitude of small lakes and rivers are met with. The south shore of the arm is low, a<- ir as the eye reaches, and only begins to be mountainous fifteen miles from hence, in the vicinity of Devil's-hill ; and, although the land is beautifully verdant, there are no shrubs. At one o^clock in the morning we started ; the fires of the savages were still burning, and their noise continued which, together with the darkness of the night, concealed our departMre from them. Having got out of the channel, we bent our course towards the ship, but, not perceiving it, we en- deavoured to steer our course by the direction of the land. We bad scarcely rowed an hour, when we got upon a shal- low \ it being low-water, all the places, which we had got over before with perfect ease, had been changed into sand-banks, aud we heard the beating of the surf all around us. We rowed in another direction, and again got upon a bank, where we were in danger of being swamped \ a violent wind increased the danger of our situation ; the boat leaked considerably, and we were all much exhausted : I saw no prospect of escaping im. mediate death, being in momentary apprehension of the boat upsetting in the surf. The baydare which carried our scientific gentlemen had got away from us, and some shots of distress which we heard from that direction increased the horror of our situation ; we answered by firing a musket, but could not go to their assistance. At last the dawning of day relieved us ait ; we saw the line we had to take, to escape from the surf, and the baydare was near us. The sailors now made their last forcible efiort to cut the surf (the only means of escaping it), and we were saved. The baydare, being lighter, got through it with little difficulty. Still wc had to contend with the wind, but this at last subsided, and we reached the Rurick on the morning of the 13th of August. Wc were greatly indebted to the courage of our sailors, for our preservation, and it is with pleasure, I publicly declare, that, during the whole voyage, 1 had every reason to be satisfied with the conduct of the crew. Their undaunted courage and perseverance have always pleased me } their conduct was exemplary, and I always per- il Kotzebue*8 Voya^t round the World, S9 had ceived that, in known as well as unknown places, they uni- formly acquitted themselves with Zealand indefatigable industry. By this means, even a dangerous enterpnze, with Russian sailors, becomes a pleasure. We were visited by i^mericans in two baydares, who, in selling their small articles, employed every artifice to cheat us, laughing violently when they found they could not succeed. The general rule of producing the worst articles first, they have probably learnt from the Tschuki tschi, and these again from the Russian traders. When w« refused to take any thing more of them, they produced from the lowest part of their boat some fox skins, which, howeuer, we did not feel inclined to purchase, since they would only Eart with them for long knives. One of them, who seemed to e the chief of the party, at my invitation, ventured upon deck, the only one of the inhabitants of the Sound who had Bu6Scient courage. His amazement was very great; he looked on all sides without uttering a word, but he left us after a quarter of an hour, to entertain his listening companions with tne wonders he had seen. We gave him a slate, intimating to him that we wished him to draw the direction of the cape upon it ; he took the pencil, and actually drew the cape at the south entrance of the sound, which he represented as a bending pro-^ montory ; he then pointed out a number of habitations, which he called Kegi, and whither he invited us. We saw in ^is boat an iron lance, which we recognized as being of the manu- facture of Siberia; where they are only made for the trade with the Tschuktschi. Their dinner-hour having arrived, they placed a seal, they had just killed, in the midst of them, ripped open its belly, and each of them put his head in, to suck the blood from it. After having drank sufficiently in this manner, each of them cut out a piece of flesh, which tney ate with the greatest relish ; their horrid faces during such a meal were truly characteristic. At nine o'clock a.m. wj heaved anchor, in order to pursue the N. coast. The latitude of our anchorage we found 66^ 1 6' 3<>', long. 163<* 41'; the declension of the needle 27^ E. We noticed the falling of the water on the land, which takes its direction from the Bay of Good Hope to the N. , but could not get near it, on account of the shallow, observing it only from the mast-head. At ten o'clock we saw the extreme point of the land in S.W. Sb'\ This cape was at a distance of six miles from us, and formed the south entrance into the sound. I named it Espenberg, after the gontleman who made the voyage round the world in company with Krusenstern, beine a friend of mine. On the 4th, at eight o'clock a.m., we'had reached the cape which forms the north entrance to the sound, and which , 4 . iio\teh}xt^* Voyage round the f^orUi, I MWi«d Kr^senitem, On entering the sound, I discovered that what I had taken Tor islands in the N., was very high land ; ilpoli a low neck of land, stretching from thence to the W. We saw several habitations and people, and even two baydafres, which endeavoured to overtake us, but without success, the Rtlrick sailing very fast before the wind. We noticed a build- ing on an eminence, resembling an European warehouse^ the dw^lings on the neck of land, being under ground, looked like •mall round hillocks, enclosed by whale*bon6. From Cape KrUKtistern, the land takes a bend to the N.E. ; and, then stretching to N.W., it ends with a cape, which I took for Cape Mulgrave. By our calculation, it lies in 61^ 3(/. Cook, who made no observation on that day, gives it in 67^ 45', making a diflevence of 15'; but, if it is considered that Ave, at a distance of $5 miles from the cape, might have made a trifling mistake in the latitude, and that with Cook, too, who had no observation at all) some error might still have been made; the medium of our two latitudes will, probably, come nearer the truth, which is 67* S7' SO". Our longitude of Cape Muigrave perfectly cor- responds with that of Cook. My instructioti was to bok out for a safe anchorage in Norten Sound, and^the next year to continue my examination df the coast; but, having found a hitherto undiscovered sound, with the saftat anchorages, and where a land expedition must be much move interesting than in Norten Sound, I -deemed it necessary to take tbatcounse. By the general wi^ of my sfhip- convpanions, 1 gave to this newly discovered sound, my name *-^i»tzebm SbHnd, This sound must, in time, become very profitable for the fWr-^rade, that article being in great abundance about here; and wa might have returned with a rich cargo, had trade tleen oUr object. According to my opinion, our go- verHment might form a few settlements on the coasts of Baring Strait, towards the north, like the English Hudaon^s Bay Com- pany, who extend their trade far \ ^. from that bay ; tliey pos- aess colonies in the interior of the country, at a very short dis- tance frtm the newly discovered sound, and will, undoubtedly, soon profit of this opportunity for trade. Hitherto, Baring Strait was dangerous to navigators, there being no harbour known where mips might take shelter in any case of emer- gency. Those who in future visit the Strait, will find the advantage of this discnfvei-y. The inhabitants of this country bre, withouft exception, of a heahhy appearance, and seem to live only upon the flCi^h of marine animals, which, for -the most part, they eat raw. We scarcely «aw any fish upon all the American 'Coast, having always thrown out our hooks in vain ; «iid I an, th«irefbre> inclined to believe, that either there never 4 Kotzebue*» Voyage round the World, 61 ftre any, or, at least, that they did not come here this season. Tobacco is held in great repute, they chew, snuff, and smoke it, and even swallow the smoke. The water in the sound, by daily observations ivith the areometer, we found very sweet, which was probably caused by the thawing of the ice ; perhaps, too, there in some large river in the vicinity, which may have escaped our notice ; upon tlie whole, we found that the water on. the American coiist con- tained much less salt than that on the Asiatic. The most pre- valent wind during this mont!i, which was violent at sun-iise, and abated at its setting, was S.E. ; the weather was, for the most part, clear. I am of opinion, that by •!).£. wind, the Cape Prince of Wales keeps oflT trie fog from the coast, because, at a few miles from shore, the fog is very thick. The barometer regularly stands higher in S.E. than any other wind, without being influenced by the state of the weather, of which circum- stance I shall only mention one example : with S.E. wind and dull weather, the barometer stood upon 30.20., by N.E. ; and, during the brightest weather, it stood 20. 10. The mean stand of the barometer outside the sound was 9** of warmth ; with- in, -i- 1 1*' ; all this relates to the American coast. From Kotzebue Sound to Unalaska.'—l intended spending a few days upon the Asiatic coast, in order to compare its inha- bitants with the Americans ; I therefore took my course to the south, to see the land near Cape Espenbergr At noon, our observed latitude was 66° 48' 4?''. In the vicinity of Cape Espenberg we distinguished two hills S.E. 18®, and Cape Krusenstern, N.E. 22**. The wind lowered, and, there being a calm on the 1 5tb, we took several distances between the sun and moon, from which we reduced our latitude, at noon, 165® 15' 30^; that of the chronometers only differing by a few minutes. On the 18th of August, the wind blowing strongly froth S. we approached the Asiatic coast, the fog bemg thicker than we had yet seen it, with a high wind, on the opposite coast; tlie depth had gradually increased to 31 fathoms, and the tempe- rature of the air altered so much, that it seemed as if it had been changed from a warm climate into a cold one. The ther* mometer, which, at noon, upon the coast of America, had been standing from 52i to 54|, Fahrenheit, here only pointed to 43 J; the water, too, was here much colder, which was pro- bably caused by the high icy land ; the stand of the barometer we always found lower here than on the opposite coast The direction of the current in Baring Strait was always to N.E., and stronger on the Asiatic, than on the American coast. Here a great drove of whales and moraes sported around us. ?i :i Vf} M.I I'be latter have a singular appearance, holding their heads ho- rizontally over the water, in which their uncommonly long teeth acquire quite a horizontal position. In the morning I noticed some ver^ dark blue spots, diflfcrent from the colour of the water. Fearing we had gut upon a tihallow, 1 hud the plum- met thrown out, but we ascertained that the spots were occa- sioned by several collections of small fi!>h. At 3 o'clock, p.m. the fog cleared off, uiiil we saw the East Cape S.W. 46^, at u distance of 12 mile.s from us. Wc were obliged to tack, and at 7 o*clock, P.M. we had the East Cape S.W. ll*', the isle of Batmnnoti' 8.E. 39°, from us, the weatlier being gloomy and the wind brisk. On the lyth. when by our ship s account we supposed we were near St. Lawrence Bay, we found our- selves, on the clearing up of the weather, at a short distance from the East Caix: ; the current having driven us 50 miles within 'i4 hours to N.E., somewhat better than 3 miles an hour. J calculate the current on the Asiatic coast, in the greatest depth of the navigable track, at ^ miles an hour, when the wind blows briskly from the South. The constant N.E. direction of the current in Baring Strait, proves that the water meets with no resistance, and, consequently, that there must be a passage, al- though it may not be calculated for navigation. An observa- tion nas been made, long since, that the water in Baffin's Bay runs to the south, consequently there is no doubt that the mass of water which enters Baring Strait takes its course round Ame- rica, re-entering through Baffin's Bay into the ocean. As it seemed 1 was destined to visit the East Cape, I bent my course towards it, keeping on the north side, to protect myself against southerly winds, it is formed of very high land, which in some places is covered with perpetual ice, seeming at a dis- tance to form only a narrow neck of land, extending far into the sea; which is, probably, the reason why Cook drew it in that shape upon his chart. But, at a distance of from five to six miles, a very low track of land is discernible, which, being connected with the hills, deprives the cape of the form of a neck of land. At the extreme point of the cape is, upon the low land, a hill of a conical shape, which rises horizontally out of the sea, and, the top of which having fallen down, it is open towards the sea-side. This place has a gloomy appearance, from the black wild confusion of fallen rocks, one of which, a pyramidical shape, is particularly remarkable. These signifi- cant ruins put Man in mind of the great revolutions which once took place here ; for the appearance, as well as the situation, of the coast, justify an idea that Asia and America were formerly connected, and that the Gwozdef Islands are the remains of the connecting land between East Cape and that of Prince of Wales. Ii P.M* \5^, at 1 1 ^ 0^ Kotzebue^s Vffjfage round the World, 69 Towards the west the low land forms a bow, upon which we saw several subterraneous habitations, in the shape of small round hillocks, enclosed with whale-bones. We sailed towards them, and, at noon, cast anchor in a depth of eighteen and a half fathoms, over a clayey ground ; the habitations lay S.E. 4", two miles from us; the pyramidical stone S.E. 64°. A baydare with eleven men immediately approached us, rowing several times round the ship, without speaking a word ; and, al> though they well understood our signs of invitation, they would not come on-board ; but pointed to some skins, and then to their habitations, whither they invited us, on their returning, having probably been sent out to reconnoitre. Among their arms we noticed a musket : if the liussian trader frequently takes the liberty of selling them muskets, it may be productive of dangerous consequences in the Russian colony in Kamt- schatka ; for, if a warlike nation like the Tschuktschi were provided with fire-arms, the former colony must tremble before them. We went on shore in tvo boats. Our reception was appa* rently cordial, yet Aot without being mixed with mistrust, for they would not let us get as far as their dwellings ; fifty mea met us, armed with long knives, obliged us to sit down upon skins close to the shore, while they sat in a circle round us; the other half were concealed behind their dwellings, where they seemed to have placed themselves in reserve. These precau- tions prevented us from seeing their dwellings, our abode on shore being rather unsafe ; yet we conversed with them as much as we were able, and to the leaders, who sat by me separated from the rest, I presented a few trifles, at the same time hang- ing a medal round their necks. Their very filthy dresses, squalid ferocious countenances, and their long knives, gave to this group the appearance of a banditti ; and from their conduct, which became gradually very daring, I concluded they frequently had intercourse with Russians. These people, in their exterior, are little distinguished from the Americans; their boais and arms are the same, and their lances consist of a broad piece of iron, like those we saw on the American coast ; they also wore beads, yet of a smaller description. The chief distinction between these two people, are the bones under the lip, which the Tschuktschi are without, and perhaps the fatter arot somewhat taller and stronger made. The women had probably fled, for we did not see one. After an hour's stay we returned on-board, followed by three baydares, with the two chiefs in them ; before they went aboard, each of them presented me with a fox»skin, after >vhich they came up with their attendants, without the least ceremony. They relished our biscuit and brandy very much. 1 1 64 Kotzebue^s Voyage round the World, The tobacco they did not smoke^ but they snuiTed and chewed it. At my invitation the chief, with some others, went down with me into my cubin, where nothing attracted their notice so much as a large looking-giass, before which they stood as if they were fixed. With much gravity tiiey stared at their shadows, and, when at last one of them moved, and the motion was re- peated in the glass, they were all horror-struck, and left the cabin without uttering a word. One of those upon deck be- came curious, on hearing the account of the others j I took him down, but he did not venture to go in, only putting his head through the door, and,when he recognized himself upon the first look, ran back with ail speed. I have generally remarked, in my voyages, that the northern nations are afraid of the looking- glass, wiiilst those of the south are much amused with them. In the afternoon we set sail again. On our anchorage we found the current a mile an hour towards M.E. ; it was very weak on account of the East Cape, which protected it from tiie south. Thousands of morses sported round the ship, roaring like bulls ; now and then whales made their appearance, throw- ing up high fountains. One of a particularly large size, covered with sea-grass and shells, threw his fountain so high that tlie spray flew in our faces, an event which was not of the most plea- sant kind, the water thrown out in this way being of a very disagreeable smell ; at the same time, he kept long enough above water for a whaler to have killed him twenty times. On the 20th of August, we had a brisk wind from N.E. We sailed, by the log, seven knots, and neverthele.<:s advanced but slowly ; thus, the current keeps its strength from the south even with a brisk north wind. Till noon we had a great fall of rain, with fog ; nevertheless we sailed straight towards St. Law- rence Bay, and, ju^t as we were necessarily about to have bright weather, the rain and fog disappeared, and the bay lay be- fore us. At three o'clock we turned round the small sandy island by which the harbour is here formed, and cast anchor over clayey ground, in ten fathoms of water. In the N.E. we perceived some Tschuktschi tents, upon an eminence; the western point of the low island lay 30" S.W. of us. Two baj dares, with twenty men, soon approached us; they sang loudly, but kept prudently at some distance, till 1 beckoned to them, when they fearlessly came on-hoard. I went on shore with two boats, to visit them in their dwellings, and, at the same time, to fill some casks with water; our Tschuktschi followed us, well please'! with the presents we had made them. Before reaching their cabins, wc were obliged to cross an eminence, upon a difficult road, over ice and fields of snow, and marshy moss- ing the but notb I wis grate peop M'hicf of n( prest Kbtzebue^s Voydge round the World, 65 ground. The ice and snow had been lying here since the last year, and in this situation we saw the whole coast, while on the American side, the tops of the highest hills are free from snow; there the mariner sees the fields covered with green sward, whilst here only black mossy rocks covered with snow and icicles burst in view. Pitiable as this country may appear as a constant residence, the natives are perfectly happy and contented, though even abandoned, as it were, by nature. We found twelve summer-dwellings, made of scaffoldings composed of long poles placed together in the form of a pyramid, and covered with the skins of various marine animals ; the fire is lit in the middle of the dwelling, which has a hole in the roof to let out the smoke. These huts were larger than any I had s^en before } they were twelve paces in diameter, and from 12 to 18 feet high; their inhabitants seemed to belong to a wa,ndering tribe, as I concluded from the number of sledges which they had brought with them, to collect, during the summer, the whale and other blubber for the winter ; this business being over, they return to their rein>deer in the interior. The tents formed one row, that of the chief standing in the middle ; he was a venerable old man, of healthy appearance, but had already lost the use of his legs. They had all fearfully withdrawn into their dwellings, where it seemed they were preparing for defence, except the old man, who sat, with his two young ones, upon a skin which was spread before the tent, and invited mc to sit down on his right side, when he learned that I was the commander. His first endeavour was to ascertain whether there was any one witli me that understood their language. I had only one sailor whom I brought from Kamtschatka, and who, knowing the Kariak language, understood a few words of this, and he became very useful to me, although his knowledge did not extend very far. They did not understand one word of Krusenstern*s vocabu- lary. The old man, at my request, promised to let us have some rein-deer, but, at the same time, gave us to understand that it would take some time, since they were to be brought from the interior. Pleased with this promise, my people hav- ing tasted but little fresh food since we had left Cnill, I made the old man several presents, who willingly accepted them, but at tho same time expressed his apprehension that he might not be able to make an adequate return. On my assurance that I wished for nothing but nis acceptance of my presents, he gratefully shook his head, ordering something to one of his people, who, running to the hut, brought out a skin dress, which he laid down at my feet. I remained faithful to my plan of not taking any thing, and entirely gained liis confidence, on presenting him with a medal bearing the likeness of our empe- VoYAGEs, To/, ri. K ( GO Kotzebue's Voyage round the World, .i^ i ,1 It roTf the "valua of which I explained to him through my inter- preter;* but he seemed already to be aware of it, for he was highly pleased with it. The other Tschuktschi, both men and ivomen, came creeping out of their huts, and seated themselve* in a circle round us, pe'>tering us at the same time with inquisi- tive looks. A young woman was ordered by the old man to "wait on me with a dish of whale.blubber, which, howerer, I de- clined eating, not having lost the nausea the last meal of the kind created. However, I fully gained the favour of the la-, dies by a liberal distribution of beads and sewing-needles among^ them ; the latter of which they called tetita. On entering the tent, at the invitation of the old man, I found it extremely fiU . thy ; an immense large kettle stood over the fire ; the place "ivas divided by skins, behind which they had their warm sleep- in^.places made up of skins: several utensils which they ret ceive from Kolima, convinced me that they carried on a brisk ^ trade with the Russians. It was rather late when we left them, accompanied by' frequently repealing the word taroma, whic^ ' ^ they use on meeting and parting. As far as I am acquainted with the Tschuktschi, I cannot agree with the general opinion, that they have longer faces, and, upon the whole, nothing Asiatic about them; they all have projecting cheek-bones and small Chinese eyes, and, if the ,^ heads of some should have a little less of the Asiatic shape, It xnay be attributed to their proximity to the Russians. Tliey are invariably without a beard, the same as on the Americaii ^ coast ; and, upon the whole, I found so imperceptible a differ rence between these two nations, that I am inclined to think', they are of the same origin. The Tschuktschi that we saw here wiere strong-made, and above the middling size, ^n obser^ vation which I also made there; the dress is the same with l^otb, except that of the Americans being cleaner, and they seemed to work with more skill and taste. Their arms coiisist pf arrows, bows, knives, and lances, the latter always made of irqn imd ornamented with copper. The knives here are of thrfse kiqds } the first, an ell long, is worn in a sheath on the leftside; the second, somewhat shorter, is kept under the coat, on thp hack, the handle projecting about an inch over the left shoulder; the third, only six inches long, is concealed within the sleeve, and onl}' used for work. '^Ine women tattoo tlicif arms and faces, here, as well as upon the opposite coast ; and •we noticied fre<]|uent diseases in their eyes, which arc probably occasioned during their long winters, where in the open air they * Near the East Cape one of itie Tschuktichi shewed me a copper snuff* bpx, with the portr«|ic uf Catherine, i Kotzei}u»*s Voyage round ihe World. m snuif- \ite daJEzled by the snow, and in the Jurtes they suffer from the steam of the oil. On the 21st of August ive \i'ere visited by the inhabitants of the village of NuniagmOf (mentioned by Cook,) with their wives, in six baydares. Before getting on-board the ship^ they slowly rowed once round her, during which they kept sinking ; ia each baydare was one man who played upon tne tambourine^ to which a second was dancing, making, at the same time, the most ludicrous contortions of hand and body. At ladt they all came on-board, except the women, of whom only one came, and behaved themselves freely, without the least mistrust, em- bracing, singing, and dancing with the sailors, While a dram which I had given to each of tiiem served to add to their mirth. One of them had a complete Russian countenance, and there- fore was called the Russian by the others ; eVeil some of us thought that he actuali v was one, who was not willing it should be known ; he was distinguished from the others by a strong beard, which, however, he fearlessly suffered to be shaved on by one of the sailors. I told my guests that I wished to see their dances upon shore, as there was not room enough on- board ; this was immediately announced to the baydares, who left the ship with continued shouts. I must notice here that the Tschuktschi afid the Americans we saw, form an exception to all other northern people, in their invariable cheerfulness of temper. At three o*clock p.m., we went on shore, well armed, in three boats. The inhabitants of Nuniagmo had ehcamped upon a level, at a small distance from the lent of oiir old friend; their baydares were dragged upon shore, and placed in a line, so PiS to form a kind of bulwark against an attack. Probably thii; precaution has become a custom with them, from the con- stant warfare among themselves and against the Americans ; and they did not even neglect the precaution with us, however great' their conhdence might have been. They met us in a friendly manner, and made us sit down upon skins, which were spread opposite the baydares ; but, before the dance began, I gave the ladies needles and beads, and the men tobacco leaves, which much pleased them all. The ball opened with a solo'dance; an old, squalid, miserable-looking woman stepped forward and put her body in the most singular and fatigumg contortions, but without moving froni the spot ; she rolled her eyes and made such grimaces, us created a general laugh. The music consisted of a tambourine and the singing of several voices, which, however, possessed but few charms for an Eu- ropean ear. After this, several men and women perfontied singly, but without any one of them being equal to the skill of 08 Kotzebue*8 Vintage round the World, the old woman. The ball was closed by a peculiar dance; twelve women sat down, close together, in a semi-circle, turn- iqg their backs upon each other, the whole group singing, and endeavouring to give expression to their song, by the motion of their hands and bodies. This being. ended, we returned to the vessel. On the 22d, at eight oVlock a.m. we left the Rurick in the barcasse and the baydare, steering S.E., to examine the depth of St. Lawrence Bay. At noon, having sailed twelve miles and a half, we reached the cape at the southern shore of the bay, where Mr. Saritschef's survey closes. We stopped here to make some observations. We found the lat. 65^ 43' 11"; and. the declension of the needle 23" £. Ou; the cape we met with some people who attempted to flee from us; but we detained them by our presents, and gained thr^ir confidence, to such a degree, that they presented us in return with sixteen wild geese, and two fresh-killed seals. Without losing a moment, each sailor cooked for himself, five geese were sufficient for our dinner, the rest were kept for the Kurick. The bay is not inhabited, but only visited by the Tschuktschi for the purpose of hunting ; the geese seemed to have been caught with snares, and the seals had been killed with arrows. These people soon left us, taking their course to the £. at the opening of the bay ; and we too, strengthened by our meal, proceeded in our examination to N.W., where the bay took its direction between high hills. The seals we were obliged to leave till our return, having no room for them in our boats. We had proceeded three miles, when we found two rocky islands of tolerable height, but only inhabited by sea- birds. That in the £. which was about three miles in circum- ference, I named after my first mate, Chra\.:::htnko; that in the W., which is rather smaller, received the name of the second mate, Petrqf, Hitherto the depth had been twenty fathoms ; between the islands it was only twelve. As soon as the islands are passed, the depth, over a clayey ground, decreases to eight fathoms, and here the water is perfectly calin ; ships may stand close to the shore, which would be very useful incase ot repairs, as no storm could injure them. After having sailed, since noon, seven miles and a half, we reached the enu of the bay, which ends in a round shallow creek, of four miles in circuQtference. Two small rivers, with excellent water, which have their rise among the high hills, and fall down in several cascades, empty themselves here. We were obliged to land at the entrance of this creek, near the south cape, on account of the iihallowness of the water, and here we resolved to stop for the night. The country had even a more melancholy appearance here than in Baring Strait, although we were KoiKhue** Forage round the World. 60 in a higher latitude, — a few miserable willow-treesi here and there a crippled plant, and rarely a flower, all this surrounded by high hills, steeply rising from the water, whose tops were covered with snow. The rocks consist of mouldered granite, among which I found some line pieces of white marbte ; and in the sand, upon the shore, I noticed the fresh traces of a large bear. On the 23d we returned to the Rurick, but were obliged to leave the seals behind, which were probably half eaten by the, birds and foxes. The Tschuktschi, who in the mean time had killed a whale, and dragged it upon the sandy island, were just employed in cutting it to pieces ; they gave us some blubber, ana were at a loss to conceive, how we could refuse such a dainty. On our arrival on-board, at eleven o'clock a.m., 1 was informed by a messenger from our old friend, that four live and three dead rein-deer had been received; he requested me to ac- cept them as a gift from him and his people, and to come on shore to receive them myself. Soon after dinner we went and found the Kuniagos still there, together with the old chief, who had been drawn there on a sledge, with his retinue. At first they delivered to me the dead, and then the live reio-deer, — fine and sportive creatures, which, led by long curries, threw their kaders to the ground ; they became still more savage, when they got scent of strangers ; and we were obliged to be oa our guard, as they were beating about furiously with their horns. The old man asked me whether they had not better be killed ? and I had scarcely consented to it, when in one mo« ment, all the four, struck by their owners to the heart, fell dead to the ground. I endeavoured to express my gratitude by some presents, and left the old man and his people, well satisfied with our generosity. To-day we were yet visited by several Tschuktschi, who, sing- ing and jumping, endeavoured to sell their goods; one boy especially » distinguished himself by his playful dances, and, when I g«ve him some leaves of tobacco, for some bold leaps, he repoMed them, asking me to pay him again, which being refused, he made the most frightful grimaces. Several went into the cabin, where they were great!}, terrified; the portrait of my father they took for a saint, and bowed before it, making crosses, like the Russians. One of them wore a golden em- broidered dress, which he said he had from a friend at Kolima. On the a^th, the wind blowing from the S. we were prevented leaving St. Lawrence Bay. We had many visitors, some even coniing from Metschigmenski Bay, in five baydares; they went for the night on shore, promising to repeat their visit the next day ; having their wives and children, besides all their property, with themj their chief, an elderly man, had a 70 Kotzebue*s Voyage round the WotU, musket, but it was in a most pitiful condition.— The flesh c4 tiie rein-deer we found uncommonly good. The Tschuktschi sometimes brought us a kind of SaranAt similar to that of Kamtschatka, only larger, having the taste of good potatoes. Although we paid weiifor it, we only got a raw, which makes me think they are difficult to procure. On the 26th, we had a complete calm, which continued till the 27th at noon, when a gentle wind arose from S*£. which, quickly increasing, at two o'clock suddenly turned into a storm, so violent, that I was fearful for my cables. It lasted till m\A-^ night, when it began to abate ; the lowest stand of the bara^ meter during the storm was 28.70. On the 28th, towards the evening, the weather cleared up, but a brisk S.E. wind prevented me from going under sail; the barometer rose to 29.44. In the afternoon I went on shore to invite my old friend on-board \ to which, after much hesita-' tion, he consented. It was not on account of age, but an idea that we might take him with us for good, that almost made him in- exorable. When I told him that the wind was against us, he said, '* No wind can stop you, for you sail against the wind !" This idea the Tschuktschi have imbibed from our boats sailing sharp by the wind, and every time we came on shore with con- trary wind, they came in crowds to stare at the miracle. The sails upon their baydarcs consist of a square piece of leather, which, with the flat construction of their boats, prevents them from sailing with any but a good wind. At last the old man made up his mind to come on-board ; and a stout young man took him upon his shoulders and carried hint with ease up and down hill. While I had been engaged with the invitation, one of the Tschuktschi, of Metschigmenski Bay, had forcibly taken a pair of scissars from one of my people, and then drew his knife to secure his booty. This affair would have ended in bloodshed, had not chance brought thither one of my friend's party, who immediately rushed upon the thief^ and took the scissars from him ; his chief also came up to make peace, and, when 1 reproached him with the misconduct of bis people, he, instead of an answer, led me to a spot, where a circle had been drawn on the ground, about six feet in diameter, where the criminal was compelled to run in a short trot con- stantly on one side. This punishment is as painful as it is strange^ for I think no one can run a long time in that manner, without^ , failing. The old man followed me in his own ba^dare, and was carried, accompanied by two Tschuktschi chiefs, into the cabin, where all three behaved with so much decency, that they might have served as a pattern for many an European I had on- board. The many new subjects they saw here excited their curiosity, and, as it seemed to me, led them to deep medita« I lions. know imitat petual declan proof selves the we they { this pu and the which ( mediae guests fellow, them, 1 me, fr( interpn by wat« we coi; with Ri chief re makem the otb( the old knowle( the mea to keep »;ext yc had don The fur of has two them, w by poui make 9, of mice land.bir Whei repeat Tumutu near, th understa themseh ground, customai Kotzebue*8 Voyage round the World* 71 «ngc, idioufe and to the tthey d on- their edita- tions. I had tea given them, the use of which they did not know ; they waited to see what I would do with my cup, then imitating me, they sipped it. The Tschuktschi live in a per. petual warfare with the Americans, and m^ venerable guest declared them all, without hesitation, an uniust people. As a proof of what he advanced, he said, that they behaved them- selves in a friendly manner as long as they thought themselves tlie weaker party ; but they will rob and murder a stranger, if they are strong enough and can do it without danger; for this purpose, he thought they carried the knives in their sleeves ; and they used their women to entice strangers. Some portraits wrhich our draftsman had taken on the American coast, they im- mediately recognized by the bones under the lip, and one of my guests hastily exclaimed, drawing his knife, ** If I met such a fellow, with two bones, I would stab him I" On questioning them, where the Americans received their iron from, they told me, from Kolima. They talked for some time about it ; our interpreter, however, only understood that the Americans go by water to the N., in the neighbourhood of Kolima, but we could not find out whether they carried on their trade vith Russians or Tschuktschi. On leaving the ship, the old chief reluctantly took my presents, thinking that he could not make me a sufficient return ; a scruple which I did not observe in the others, who accepted every thing without hesitation. I gave( the old man a sheet of paper, upon which I had written my ac- knowledgment of his kind reception ; he seemed to understand the meaning of it, and kept it carefully. I also requested him to keep some rein- deer in readiness for me, upon my return the i;ext year} and he promised to supply me even better than he had done. The land about St. Lawrence Bay seems to be very rich in the fur of the Gewratschba, an animal that builds its house, which bus two entrances, underground, and usually sits before one of them, whistling. The Tschuktschi drive them out of their houses by pouring water into one of the apertures; and their skins make a light summer-dress. We also met with a peculiar kind of mice, that live in the ground; but we did not see one land-bird. When the Tschuktschi admire any thing, they frequently repeat the word Mexenki; if they call any one, they say, Tumutum, The old chief told us, that the stormy weather was near, the last having only been a gentle wind. He gave us to understand, that, in an actual storm, people could not keep themselves on their feet, but were obliged to lie flat upon the ground. The touching of the nose, in bidding welcome, is not customary here. The whale, which they had lately caught. 73 I kotcebue's Vonjagt round the Wotld. had been washed away from shore, by the recent storm, and Sot fast near us ; as tbey had already cut off a ^reat quantity of esh and blubber from about the head, the Innd part became heavier, and sunk. TIte depth on the spot was 7 fathoms, and this was two-thirds of tiie length of the iish. I thought thii^i a very long 6sh ; but, in Unalaska, 1 was told, they measure sometimes 30 fathoms \ that kind they call there ^liamak, and I was assured that people who are eniploycd at both ends of such a monster must bawl y^vy loudly, in order to be under- stood by each other. Latitude of our anchorage, the medium of several observati- ons 65^ 39' 33" ; declension of the needle 24^ 45' O". Latitude of the W. point of the low island 65'' 37' 38'\ Longitude, by the chronometers, 17 1^ 1«' 3o". On the 19th, having left the bay, we were assailed by a vio- lent storm from N.E. by which we were exposed to great dan- ger, on account of its being dark, and the land being so near. On the :30th the weather cleared up. The 3 1st, the weather being foggy, 1 could not, without too great a loss of time, ex^ amine the eastern part of St. Lawrence Island, as was my inten- tion ; I therefore resolved to make straight for Unalaska, from whence I wished to send ^ messenger to Kodiak, to get me an interpreter for the next year. Such a messenger goes upon a baydare, with three seats, along the south coast of Aliaksa : at a late season it is impossible to make this voyage, which is a risk even in summer, snice these boats, or posts, as they are termed ID Unalaska, are often lost. At noon, we caught the sun for a moment, and found the lat. at CS** IS*, long, of the chronometers by the ship's account, 167** 54'. From here I took my cours'^ S. by S. \ E. in order to examine School Nees ; by midnight the depth had decreased from 19 fathoms to 15|, the ground consisting of clay. The wind varied from N.W. to N.E., with gloomy weather and raiu. On the 1st of September the wind blew a gale, which made me give up the examination cf School Nees. On the 2d the sun rose brilliantly, we had a fine day, and I steered with a west wind, S. by S., towards Unalaska. From our observations, at noon, we found the lat. 59" 42* j long, by the chronometers, 169^ 53' i the depth, 26 fathoms, over fine white sand. " On the 3d, at 6 o'clock, P.M. the isle of St. Paul was seen S.W. at a distance of 20 miles, from the mast-head ; only three hills were visible, scarcely appearing above the horizon, pro- bably the highest spots on the island; which is said to consist, altogether, of low land. • Several sea-birds flew about the ship, and were so tame that some of them suffered themselves to be and ly of :aine and ;his a asure and ds of nder- rvati- ide of >y the a vio- t dan- lear. eather le, ex-p inten- , from me an upon a sa : at a is a risk termed the lat. iccount, in order 3creased jr. The kud raiu. ch made ^, and I , From long, by wer fine \ras seen nly three ;on, pro- 3 consist, the ship, ves to Be Kotze^ue't ^fyage round the World. W caught. The next morning, at day-break, we isiled by St. Georgian Island, at a distance of 18 miles west. At 8 o'clock, A.M. we descried a sail at a great dittante irk the S., the first ship that we had fallen in with since the Brazils. When we overtook it, we found that she was a schooner of two masts, belonging to the Russo-Anierican Company. She had been taking in a cargo of skins, on the islands of St. Paul and St. Georgian, which she carried to Sittka Island. On the 6th we were in sight of the N. point of the bland of Unalaska, which presents a most dreary and horrid prospect to the mariner, particularly from this side. Black lava-banks rise perpendicularly from the ocean, to points which are perpe- tually covered with snow. The whole island seems t6 be formed of a range of pointed hills, lying close to caCh other, some of which reach above the clouds. To-day the view i^raa less melancholy, even the highest tops being cloudless, and the sun giving a rosy tinge to their icy covers. The wind b*lng contrary, we were obliged to tack during the day and th6 whole night, in the vicinity of the island. On the '7th the wind became favourable, and we steered otrr course to the barhoofif of Illiuliuk, where the American Company has a settlement; but, scarcely had we arrived at the entrance of the port, which is surrounded by high mountains, when the wind entirely fell. It is impossible to anchor before the entrance, there being no ground in a hmidred fathoms; and the ihdmcntary sqiralln, fi^om various directions, made our entry dangerous ; in the mean time, however, the agent of the Company, Krinkof, came to meet us with five large baydares, of twenty-four hands each, to tow us into port. Scvcrul AHuutskan boats, containing one man each, surrounded us. At 1 6^clock, p.m. wc dropped anchor in the eastern part of the Captain's harbour, op()osite the village Illiuliuk. There could not be a better barDt)ur, if the entry was not so difficult. Mr. Krinkof ordered a: Russian bath for us, an accommodation which is quite indis- pensable td a Russian, after a long voyage. Thefe were only twelve heads of cattle upon Unalaska, and the other Alioutskan islands, belonging to the Company. Nevertheless, the agent ordered an ox to be killed this very day, and sent fresh meat daily for the whole crew ; he also supplied us with potatoes, turnips, and radishes, the only vegetables that grow here, from his garden. These fresh provisions renewed our strength, and I had the pleasure of seernff all my men in perfect good health. On the 8th the small vessel, Tschirik, which we had met near St. Paul Island, entered the harbour'. I was told by the com- mander, Mr. Bhfztemann, an old marine, and a.Pru^iati by birth, thait fi'oDd the island of St. Paul| in very clear vTeatthcr, we might Voyages, Vol Fl, L ; ^ ^^*^ ^ \> >.i8i«^, 4lV \ V ^ *^, ****■ '^ ¥ 74 Kotzebue's ToTjfage round the World. discern another island in S. W. by W., which be hnd been pre- vented from findine out on bis last voyage thron|3;h the fog. Mr. Krinkofy who had lived some years ago at St. Paul's, confirmed his statement. I was to hare ^one to the Sandwich Islands to recruit our strength, and take in a fresh stock of provisions, but, being un- certain whether I could efiect the latter in those islands, I re- solved to steer from hence to California, where I was sure to find every thin^ I wanted, in the beautiful harbour of St. Fran- CISCO. I took m our water as fast as possible, at the same time S'ving the Company^s agent a list of every thing I wanted for e next year, with which he had been ordered by the directors in St. Petersburg to supply me ; my orders were as follows : — 1. One baydare of twenty-four oars, two of one oar, and two with three oars : 2. To keep ready fifteen stout Kealthy Alioutskans, with their full ammunition, who were skilled in the management of the baydares: s. To dispatch immediately a person to the isle of Kodiak, to get there, through the Com- pany's agent, an interpreter, acquainted with the language of the nations inhabiting the coast of America, north of the island of Alaksa. This pomt was very difficult, on account of th^ lateness of the season j however, we found three strong Alioutsi kans, who offered to undertake the voyage. On the Uth of September, yesterday being our emperor's sunt's-day, Mr. Kriiikof gave a dinner to the whole crew upon shore. In the afternoon we went to a large subterraneoua habi- tation, where several Alioutskans were assembled for a dance* Their sports and dances were, undoubtedly, different in former times, when they were free, to what they are now, when slavery has nearly reduced them to the level of the brute, so as to render their performance neither pleasant nor amusing. The music, consisting of two tambourines, was played by three Alioutskans, with which they accompanied a simple melancholy tune, only formed of three notes. There never appeared more than one female dancer at a time, who after having made a few leaps, without any expression, disappeared among the specta- tors. The sight of tbese people, with their melancholy coun- tenances, compelled to leap before me, hurt my feelings, and xay sailors, who felt dull, in order to amuse themselves, beean singing, while two of them, placing themselves in the middle, performed a national dance. This quick transition pleased every one ; and even in the eyes of the Alioutskans, who till now had been standing wilL their heads bent down, we recognized some gratification. A servant of the American company (Promi- schllensi),who had left Russia, his native country, when a youth, and had growa old and grey in this region, now ftuddenly 4 Kotaebue*8 Voyagt rmnd the World, 7ft and romi- routhy denly f rashed in, lifting his hands to heaven, and loudly calling out : ** These are Russians, these are Russians ', oh my dear beloved native countrvmen !" A feeling of joy was, at this momentri depicted in his venerable countenance ; tearft of joy trickled . down his pale, emaciated cheeks, and he concealed himself to give a vent to his feelings. He tod come here in the hope of enjoyinff his old age in comfort, and was now compelfed, lUkm many others, to end his life in this desert. From Unaloika to Califomia.'~On the 14th of Septfember^ we left Unalaska. Durine our stay the weather had been tole- rably warm. I was told that the passage between the islands oif Akun and Unimak was the safest, to get into the ocean, and f steered my course in their direction. On the 15th, at day-break, we sailed round the north point 6f Akuii, and were then in the strait, whiob appeared clear and safe. The isle of Unimak lay distinctly before us ; the majes- tic peak, which occupies the centre of the island, was free from clouds, and we calculated its height at 5525 Engli^ feet. A contrary wind keeping us here, we were enabled to take seve. rai observations, and to make a good chart. The strait seems to me to be so safe and capacious, that I recommend it to all navigators. On tlie l€th, in the morning, we were in open sea. On the 1st of October, at midnight, we descried by moon- light thb Cape de los Reyes, and at four o*clock p.m. we dropped anchor in the port 6f St. Francisco, opposite the go-^. vernment-house. Our Rurick seemed to throw the place in no small alarm, for, on approaching the fort of St. Toaaum^ situated on a neck of land formed of high rocks, on the sbntbern entrance, we saw several soldiers on horse and foot, agdjo the fort itself they were loading the cannon. The entrance to the harbour is so narrow, that ships are compelled to sail within musket. shot from the fort. On approachrog it, we were asked, through the speaking-trumpet, to what nation we belonged^ our flag being unknown to them. Having answered that we were Ru$||lians and friends, I saluted them with five guns, and was answered by the same number. More than an hour elapsed after we had cast anchor, without any one approaching us, the whole of the military train having left th0 fort, and ranged themselves opposite our anchorage. At last it occurred to me that Vancouver had not found any boats here ; I therefore sei^t my lieutenant with Mr, Chamisso on shore, to announce our arrival to the commandant, Pon l^ouis d'Areuello, lieutenant of the cavalry, who received them in a friendly manner, pro^ raising to provide our ship daily with fresh provisions. A has. ket of fruit, which he sent me, I found a great treat, not having tasted any so long, H« also immediately dispatched a courier Il w KotZ8bu^*s Vf^9fc r9m4 '^^ World, to jyfonterez, to infprm t|)i9 gonrnor of d^Iifprpi^i of our ar* Tiii^ 9d of October. T^b foormnp^ we wi^re visi^j^cl hy tb^ fM^]|l(pry Q^i^r Pf ^ fortf A9 ^ m^sA^nger from th« copi^in^h- 4^111, wff}Q^^^^Ifie^py af!i}firgym9,Q of the mis^jopt Th«y i»pth pfibf:^ uf (BVjBfy posau^l^ fiwistan^f ; tpe forqnpr in tfip Qam? of t^ cqmffif^f^d^^t, iH)d 1^ letter \i;\ tbp nawp pf tl^e rau^ipn, Ai noon they sent us a fat o^, two sb^c;p, c^bbi^s^, puii]jpf^i|^$, and a gripa^ ;^n|tijty of friiif ; pf this latter I iQaqe j^y to^eii eat as piK^^^ey 9pu{d daily, tp counteract any tpfiqenpy tp tjip Muryvy that ffi}f;fit have been produced in their systi^m. X ^oppq the pnespdipf a^ Vapcpuver described it } thp gafrispn consists of one company orcavabry* of wbich th^ compaandant i^ the clfief, and who }xm only one officer of the fjirtijl^jry under ii)ifcppi|na<^l. ! . . Op the 4tn wp went ashore, in order to vide yritb tbe cpm- inandapt to the mijssiop-hppsi^y whither we had b^en ipvited to the fea^ of St, Francisco. \y e M'ere accompanied by ten ho|rsii»npn> ail fine dexterous meu» who use tbeir carbines ana ^apces with tbe skill of our jCossacks. They owe their skill to ibe9jons|antpractipein which they are kept, for the military in Calimrpia only sierve to {irntect the mission against the attacks of Jj^ MVf^gjBS, and assist the clergy in enlisting Chfi^tifins aP^ong ihesf; piepp)^, and to keep tbe cpnyertied in thp new tl0>^ We arrjvf^d ip about an hour, a)tbpugn above half oi|jr fpa4 ifiy i^inpng ^pd and hills, wbich were scantily cpviared ^if^ ^ fews^rujbs; in the neighbourhood of the missipp >ve C^(q)p ^ a ^ejigbitful ppuntry, and recogpissed the riph vegeta- ^p,pf palifarpia. After having rode through a street inba. Ljtfd by Indians, (for thus tbe natives are dpppmipat^d by the Spfpiapds,) wp stppppd a^.<^ l^^rge building, pear the cburpb> iupabited by thp m^sionaries \ a/id here >ve were met by five priests, tbrep pf )vhom lieiong to this mission, and the two qtbers c^mefrpip St. Clara, in honour of the solemnity; they )^ us into a {arge rqpmi plainly furnished, ^y^here we were re- ceiyiqfd v^fy rpsppctuiliy. On the clock striking ten yre entered the church, bpdt oi stpnp, and neatly ornamented) where we already found , some hundreds half-naked Indians upon tbeir kne^t wi)p, ^though they neither understand Spanish nor }jfiif\n, ajrp pqt allowed to miss one mass after their conversion. J^ the pfti^^s^Hif^f ies,, on thpir side, do not endeavour to learn tbe lapguage of the natives, I cannot conceive in wl^it manner tbey baye bpen taught the Christian religion; and the confu- sipQ iti tb.e he^ds apd hearts of these poor people, whp only tuow how to piimick some external ceremonies, must indeed V^ v^y great* The rage of cppvurtiiig savage nations is pow X 4 f our ar- hey i^pth 9ipn, Ai MifSp una sq eat as Jf t9 t|i9 stj^m. I gfirrispn ipnanda^qt iry under cl|e cpniT A invited d by ten )ines and r skill to lUvtary in le attacks ^Ihfi^M^ns the new ove half r cpvpred issipi) \ve I vegeta- :et inha-r 4 ^y the J chnrfih» It by fi^e the two ty; they were re- i entered irhere we on their lish nor tversiou. earn the manner e confu- hp only t indeed s is now i I 1 1 1 I 1 .1 '. I i 11 if ruMskfd tj'SirnnUUifutCJtntferM lyATXCttf . ruMisAfd fySirHnUUi/)^ (rjtnde&rat/lnfye Sum, ^f I V I :t 'll yweinf.. KQt»«bue'i Vgytigt rmni the IVorld, 7> spfeading ov«r tlip wM^ Qf the SQtt|h.Sea» ami prodoim great Siachief, fioM (Ifo miuioDariep never thipk to btiin«Qiiw t^ iMfQre ihej make them Cbriitians, an4 thm that whieh WM to oaye been proauctive of happinmy and peace, becomef the grpvmd of Uoodv warfare: fo^ imtancOt on the Friendly Itlfiijaij where the Coristlant and heathens comtantl/ itriye tp extfrmipnte e^ other. Jt struck qne tbat> during, the wbol^ ceyjemonjf tW, unbaptia;ed were not allowed to riie from their *— - this exertiooi however, they were ipdemnided by *^f?^f wr , . , tbe cburcl^rmuMC* i^hipb leemed to give them much pleMuro* and whicb undoubtedly was the only part of the ceremony in ivhicq they felt interested* The choir consi^d of a violon- cello, d yiolin, and two flute? » whiph instruments were plipiye4 W littlo balrrnaked Indians, who gave ua many false notea» ifom thechuiRB^ we went to dinner, where we found no lack of profisions and irine^ ]the latter of which the missionaries mako tbemielves. After dmner we were spewn the dwejlingrplj^ef of the Indiana, consisting of long, low, clay-bui)t houses, form* ing aeveral streetpp The filthy state of tbe^e barracks was be4> yoni conception, ifhich is probably tbe cause of the grei^t morv tali^ among the inhabitants, since, of the 1000 Indiana that are in Fort Francisco, 300 die annually. The Indian girls, of whom there ave 400 in the mission, }iye,' separate from the men, likewise in' similar barri^cks; both parties are obliged to wor| hpurq. The men cultivate the ground; the produce of wfffpb if ff^ived by the missionaries* who keep it In graneries^ frmji wliich the Indians rccmvo just enough to subsist on. The KJdieiii of thf) settlement are I'lVewise kept from it, but they mv|sl pay for the flour with ready cash. The women constantly srIq w«>l.fijim w(*aye a coarse stu0', which is partly yiea for tMjir o^rail^yjdress, and some sent to Mexico, where it is es^o cupi^ for pimer necessary articles. This being a hplidfOTrltlie InJI^a ,W,er9 imjt a|t work; and instead of which they were plajUng S^t W^AUSgames, one pf which required particular skill: tWff of f^imii^ s|t opposite each other on the ground^ each of tmtm holdmis ^^J^^ M«^nd a bundle of sticks; apq, while ^y, ^ klVB /lame timOif li^rpw them up in the air wwn grci^t dexterity, tbfy guess vl^*fer the numl>er is even or odd » near each player a person is sitting, who scpres the gain and loss, 4s. tney arf vi^waysp||(ving£of something* and having nothing besides ^ir c^ll^lbes^, wnicb they are not permitted to stake, they work with gr^^lMlQ^r small white shells, wbicn are used by theni^inst)Bi^ ofjAoncg^. . Tpfi coast pf Cidiforniais so rich in various tribes, that there liri) <^an more than ten tribes together, each of wluph bas its ptfi!4^'UfigVi!»^* On leaving t|^ missiooi we wciffs surpif|^ 1 1 Kotz«buo*it Fcyagt round tAt IVorhl, br two groups of Indians, who also consisted of sereral nations, liioy caine in battle-arri^, quite naked, and painted with varU ooscojours; the beads off most of them were adorned with fea» Ihers and other finery, some had covered tlieir long wild hair with down, and painted their faces in a frightful manner. There was nothing remarkable in the warlike dance, but I re« grettffd I could not understand the words of their song. The |>hysioffnomy of those Indians is ugly, stupid, and savage, be- sides they are welNmade, rather tall, and of a dark brown colour i the women are very small and ugly : they have tnuch of the negro in their faces, except that a negro-^ead, in their stupidity made it a very difficult task to instruct them ; but I rather think that the gentlemen do not trouble themselves much about it \ they all told us that the Indians came far from the interior, submitting to them of their own i^ccord fwhicl| we also doubted): the religious instruction, they saia, wa» then immediately begun, and, according to their capacities, they were sooner or later baptized. Canfornia costs the 8pa- nisb government a great sum, without any other advantage than the annualconversion of some hundreds of Indians, but wbosoon die in their new faith, as they cannot easily accus. torn themselves to a new mode of life. Twice a-year they are permitted to go home, which short time is for them the happi- est ; and I have sometimes seen them going, in large numbersji shouting on the road. The sick, who cannot undertake the journey, at least accbmpany their fortunate countrymen t6 the shore, where the^ embark, and remain sitting for days together, casting tiicir sorrowful eyes on the distant hills that surround their habitations; tlicy often stop for several daya in this spot, without takinj^ any food, so much are these new Christians attracted by their lost homes. £very time some df those which are on furlough take flight, and probably they would flee away altogether, were it not for fear of the soldiers» -who take them, and bring them back like criminals to tlie mis- aion : but this fear is so great that seven or eight dragppnaai!^ enough to keep in check hundreds of Indians. ^ Two considerable rivers fall in the Bay of ^t. Francisco, of which that in the north is the largest, and is called by the Spa- niard* Rio-erande. Tliis river, the missionaries say, is the finest in the world, and is navigable by the largest vessels ; at the same time its banks are fruitful, the climate is mild, and the popula- tion numerous. The missionaries frequently make excursioni upon it, in large Wel^arm^di boats, in order to get reciuits for nationi. itb varU irithfM. vild bair manner, but I re- {. The ige, be- I brown re tnuch l|«ad, in at parti- ithiight J us that Btthem; Binsefves faf from ) fwbieH aia» waa ipacitiei, theSpa- J vantage ians, but y accuH- they are e happi- lumbcursj ndertake Toien t6 ^or daya int hills eraldaya lese neir somisdf >ly they soidierat tlie mis- ppnaare MSCO, of the Spa. he finest the same popula- cursions ;rultsfpr • '. 'WUMM. 1 .. 1 j * . 1 U ^^ « { ^^^ li 1 1 1 ■1 -^ 1 i i' r 1 ■• ■■ 1 ! '. 1 ■ 1 k 1 1 1 li ■ 1' ■'■ '.i.r. ''^'?''.'' *.'„. _ IM'Hl>!l!lllllll"Mllli|llll)llMillllHII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIiHIlllHUIIHIflllllllMIIII i ■'••in ■''• ■"• ' li 1 *"■ y \ "Z^ ■ ! / , 1 1 ■I'V'" I i / y ' , ' ; , ^ \ 1 ;v ^^, \ ' '■ 1 \ '■-" 1 \ ^«4 ft« . ♦ H ! 1 ^ ^ --^^* b HfgpPSiJP*^^^^^^^ _ 1 4 BMMi:^ feH^^ 1 Pi ( • AM i 1 ii . h / ■iH(!flrtHlllililll!l!lt»«HllllliiiHIIHIHIIIIIIlHllimillHllillllMlllllIl«IHinii»™iiiuiiimi»iiM«tHMiiiiHM iiiiiMUiiinnHHiMii ^fznrn^ cy^ A4e^^a ru»Ui»iilvSiHtmg^lKr»0le(tmitJ)ri^ 3\ ^jr ^4e^ '^a/i^^r?ica^nd. t^ltrSlirK/fHt^*CrJ»itleCewU*i4^ Stoet. 1 U' ^ Kotzebue*8 Voyagt round the World, w M tkeirfajUi, in which, however, they seldom succeed^ the inha.- t)|tant8 being brave and well-armed. We had just come back to the Rurick, when a messenger from the governor of Old California, Don Paolo V incente de Sola arrivedfrom Monterey^ bringing me a polite letter from the governor, in which, among the rest, he promised to come himself to St. Francisco, as soon as his business wottld allow. At the same time I obtained per- mission to send a messenger to Mr. Kuskoff, for some articles I wanted, and which he could immediately supply me, beinja; in trade with American ships. Mr. Kuskoff, an agent of^the Russo. American Company, has settled, by order of Mr. Bara- nof, who is at the head of all these possessions in America,- at Bodegae, in order to supply the possessions of the colony with provbions from that place. Bodega is half a day*s voyage from St. Francisco, and is called by the Spaniards Port Bodega. The harbonr is only fit for small vessels. Kuskoff's larger possessiooa are a little north of Port Bodega. The Sth. — The Rurick required several repairs, which I left to the pare of rov lieutenant^ while I occupied myself with the instruments, whfch I took on shore under a tent. Our natu- ralists and draughtsmen were very busy ; and, after the days quickly passed in various occupations, we met in the eveninjg; to enjoy together the beauty of the climate, in which the ofE^ cers of the settlement joined us. The military seem to be dis- satisfied both with the government and the mission, having re- ceived nothing for these seven years, and being almost entirely without clothing ; at the same time, the inhabitants are entirely deprived of European goods, since no trading vessel is allowed to enter any port, of California; and it is truly lamentable to see this beautiful country thus neglected. On the 1 6th, the governor arrived in the fort. On the nth; a large baydare from Mr. Kuskoff arri^id, loaded with all the necessary articles. At noon the governor dined with us in our tent on shore. We found him a very amiable geniieman, and afterwards spent many pleasant days in his company. On the 18th, I sent word tc Mr. Kuskoff, that the governor wished to see him here respecting his establishment at Bodega. The governor told me there were several Russian prisoners in California ; they were part of the crew of a vessel belonging to the Company, which had been carrying on trade upon this coast, contrary to the Spanish laws, and had been seized by the soldiers, while they were on shore, without suspecting any dan* ger, and were thrown into prison. By the express command of the Viceroy of Mexico, the goveruor was interdicted from i I 60 Kotzebue'i Voyigi round the World, tarrehdering them to Mr. KuskoflP, but he had h6 ol^cttdti to fite them up to me, if I would carry thematrsy ; but mY ship eiikg too small, I Could only take three of them,' aud I ie- lected those who bad been some time in the sen^ice of the Com- pany. Besides these, I took on-board Mr. £liiot, with the intention of leaving him, at his own request, on the Sandwich Islands. John Elhotde Castro , a Portuguese by birth, cfame to l^ittka on-board an American vessel, in which he had been engaged by Mr. Baranof, to accompany the ship destined for the coast of California, as supercargo, and had been taken with the rest. On the 23d, the sovemor amused us with some interesting sport between a buff and a bear ; the tatter are so frequent in this country, that on going only a mile from the houses into the iroods, we could meet with them in great numbers. The spe- cies difiers from ours by a pointed head, and of an ash-grey colour i they are also more active and daring. Nevertheless, the dragoons here are so dexterous and courageous, that they are sent out into f h& wood for a bear, as we should order a cook to feteh in a goose. 'The}^ go on horseback, with nothing but a rope with a running- knot in their hands, which is sufficient to overpower a bear. As soon as the enraged animal is about to tfusb on one of them, another throws the knot, which is fix^d Xrougbt otie etch a bult. themselves, I knots by A The battle fd, although le was over- ;j. On« of leing ont a owder-hofn, cellent trim, feet health, : out of the the piercing )es on shore, foresfof Cali- all in former J KotzehMc\ Ffiyage round the IVorlJ, St times, it is to be supposed, that they have withdrawn hither from the Alioutskan Islands, and from the northern parts of America, to escape the persecutions they were exposed to there. After repeated observations on shore, I obtained the following results: — Latitude 37** 48' 3-3" N. ; lo.ngitude, calculated from distances of the sun and moon, of which we had taken all to- gether J 25, in various days 122» 12' 30"W. Dip of the needle . Q2 48 00 Declension iSf the needle 16 5 00 E. The medium of our observations in St. Francisco yielded for the high tide in full moon I hour, 50 minutes. The greatest difference in the height of the water amounted to seven feet. From California to the Sandwich Islands. — On the 11th, lat. 25^ 5' 55»t long. 138° 1' 16". The favourable wind from N.N.W. and N.E., which had accompanied us hitherto, left us. Strong squalls from S.W. followed it, which continuied with rain and a completely covered sk; At eight o'clock P.M. it being quite dark, we saw the heaven in the zenith, for the space of fifteen seconds, so strongly illuminated,' that we could distinguish the objects on the casjtTe a^ clearly as in day-timie. On the 13th, we were already in lat. 23^ 46', without meet- ing with a trade- wind ; on the contrary, the south-west became more fixed, and at last rather violent. At this great distance from shore, a S.W. wind between the tropics is to me a phe- nomenon which deserves to be mentioned. On the 16th, lat. 22* 34', long! 104' 25', we had at last a calm, and we obtained the long-expected trade-wind ; a change probably occasioned by the eclipse of the sun which we had. As long as the wind from S.W. continued, we noticed, every evening, strong lightning in the south. We found the company of Mr. Elliot de Castro very agree- able ; he had tried hisfortuHe in all parts of the world, hut, as soon as he had acquired a little property, he lost it again by unlucky speculations, and had even been imprisoned, once in Buenos Avres, and afterwards in California. Two years ago he was physician and first favourite of King Tammeam^, having staid a long time on the Sandwich Islands. The king had granted him a large portion of land, and he went on very well} but his thirst for wealth drove him to Sittka,to Mr. Bara- nof, the consequence of which enterprise the reader already knows. On the 21st of November, at one o'clock p.m., we descried Mount Mauna-Roa, fifty miles from Owhyhee. Upon Elliot's advice,! resolved to double the north side of Owhyhee, in order to obtain information respecting the abode of the king, in the Voyages, Fol, VL U 1 i Sf Kotarabue*8 Vo^ge round the World. bay of Tocahai, where the Englishman, Younff, resides. Be* sides the king often lives upon the island of Wahit, and there is a considerable distance saved, by avoiding the south point of Owhyhee, where ships are delayed by calms, caused by the high Mauna-Roa. The N.E. coast of Oa'hyhee affords a pic- turesque but not an inviting aspect. The land rises gradually to a great height, which disappears in tbo clouds. The island is said to be sterile on this side, but it seemed, nevertheless, to be very populous. Elliot suid, that the land which he pos- sessed on this side could only be used as a pasture for his pigs. An islander came here on-board, oflPering to sell us a fowl, and some ropes of his manufacture. Eliiot, who understood bis language, and was reco|^nized by him as the king's naja, (this was the name given to him by the king,) learned from him, With some difficulty, thalt the king was in the bay Karakakoa, and Young (old Hanna) was on the island of Wahu. The taci- turnity and timidity of the islander excited our suspicion t .ISIiiot thought that something unpleasant had taken place on the island, and therefore weought to use the greatest caution. Wliile: we conversed with the islander, the boat, which he had fastened to the ship by means of a rope, upset, and the man who was in it fell out, but caught hold of the rope, and dragged himself be- hind the ship, notwithstanding our sailing very fast. We came- to, and our dealer jumped over-board to untie it ; they both bad great difficulty in turning it up again, and emptying the water out of it, as the waves were constantly filling it again. As all this was done swimming, the reader may imagine how far their skill in this art went. At last they sat in it, but then they missed their oars ; this however did not embarrass them, for they rowed oflP with their hands. At two o'clock p. m., we doubled the north point, sailing three-quarters of a mile from shore, to- wards Tocahai Bay. Ships doubling the north point of Owhy- bee should beware of sudden squalls that are usual there. We saw some musrais belonging to the chiefs of this district, dis- tinguishable by the {>tone enclosure and the idols within them. Several canoes filled with girls came rowing towards us, but I bad no time to attend to the fair sex, and sailed as fast as possible towards Karakakoa, where I hoped to find Tammeamea. 'J'he north point of Owhyhee consists of a low land, which rises in a straight line under an acute angle to the clouds. After having reached these parts, the monsoon loses its effect, and we must expect land and sea breezes, frequently interrupted by calms and slight squalls from every quarter of the compass. We now saw Young's settlement, consisting of several houses, jimilt in the European style, of white stone, and surrounded by banana and palm trees ; the land has a barren appearance, and ». He- ld there .h point I by the Is a pic- raduaUj^ island ia iless, to he pos- lis pigs. v/\, and tood hia ja, (this )in niniy rakakoa, rhe taci- ispicion I ce on the . Wliilp. fastened lo was in nself be- ^e catne- ey both :ying the it again, ine ho\ir len they for they doubled iliore, to- f Owhy- re. We rict, dis- lin them, us, but I possible ea. 'I'he rises in a er having and we upted by compass. 1 houses, unded by ince, aad Kotzebue'*! ravage round the World, is said to 1)e scarcely capable of cultivation, consisting, for tha most part, of masses of lava. JV canoe, with six people, availed themselves of the calm to come on-board ; one of whom, wKo had been in Boston with an American ship, and who partially spoke English, remained on-board, when requested^ to serve as a pilot. He was iilcewise of opinion that the king was in Karakakoa, and Toung in Wahu ; he told us, besides, that there were two ships in Wahu and one in Kafrakakoa, all under the American flag. When our pilot learned that he Ivas on- board a Russian ship, he became very uneasy, and, on Elliot <]uestioning him on the cause of his fear, he related the follow- ing : ** Five months ago two Russian ships, belonging to the American Company, had stood-in here ; quarrels, ensued be- tween the Russians and the natives, in wnich the latter, (by the account of the narrator,) appeared in a very advantageous position ; the ships, on leaving the Sandwich Islands, threat, ened to return soon with a strong reinforcement, mentioning fiarticularly a man-of-war, that would likewise oppose the in- labitants." We then understood the timid behaviour of the first islanders, and Mr. Elliot had some difficulty in preventing our pilot from jumping over^^board. I was glad to obtain this intelJigenco before my meeting with Tammeamea, and now i«lt doubly the advantage of Mr. £lliot*s pre'sence, A com- plete calm kept us that day in one place. On the 23d we advanced but little, on account of the weak- ness of the wind. In the morning we were visited by a canoe^ which came to inquire about our ship. At the same time we were informed that the King had gone to Ti-utatua, a small bay, a few miles farther north, but where he was only to stay that night, going farther up the coast the next day. I imme- diately dispatched a canoe to the King, informing him of the arrival of a Russian man-of-war, with friendly intentions, the commander of which wished to speak with his Majesty, and therefore requested him not to leave Ti-utatua, where he hoped to arrive to-morrow ; the naja, likewise, sent the king word of his arrival. During the night, a brisk wind brought us near Ti-utatua. During the day the current ran S., and during the night N., parallel with the coast, — the consequence of the land and sea breezes. On the ^4th, at day-breuk, wc approached the bay ; sipme boats, sent by the king, came to meet us, and I availed myself of the opportunity to send Mr. Elliot, with our scientific gen- tlemen, on shore, in order to acquaint the king with the object of our voyage. At eight o'clock, A.iyi. Mr. Elliot settled bu- siness to our advantage ; he came on-board with two of the most distinguished chiefs, one of whom was brother to the queen, I i\ ii Kotzebue's Voyage round tht World. who welcomed us in the name of the king. There were two athletic men, whose dress of the newest fashion at Owhyhee was rery singular, consisting of a black dress.coat and a small white straw hat. I was told hy Elliot, that the king had actually ex. ftected a hostile man«of*war, and had already given orders to ine the whole coast with soldiers ; who, to the number of 400, armed with muskets, stood already prepared. The king sent me word that he regretted that he could not come to me on- board, sinoie the jealousy of his people would not permit it \ that )ie, himself, had a better opinion of us, after his naja had ac> quaijited him with the object of our voyage ; and, as a token of his friendly sentiments, he invited me to his camp, where he promised to treat me with a pig, baked on the ground. Fur vay security he had ordered that one of the chiefs should re- main on-board, while 1 was on shore; whither I went ac- companied by Mr. Elliot, my lieutenant, and a chief, of the name of John Adams, he having changed his name with an European friend, as it is custumary in these islands among friends. The king's camp was concealed by a neck of lancl, formed by bare rocks, but, having passed these, we were sur- prised by seeing a most beautiful landscape. We were in a small sand bay, protected against the waves, upon perfectly smooth water; a beautiful grove of palm-trees ^ned the shore, under the shade of which wc saw several well-built thatched houses, and, through the green leaves of the bananas, on the right, two white stone houses shone, built in European style, which mixture of buildings gave to the place a singular, yet pleasing, appearance. To the left, closo to the water-side, upon an artificial hill, stood the murais of the king, surrounded by large wooden statues, representing caricatures of the human form, and which are his gods. The back-ground of this valley is formed by the majestic mount, Matma-^ororei/, the height of which I calculated upon 1687 toises ; it rises on this side rather steeply; on its declivity, green fields and valleys change to beautiful woods, between which immensely large and steep lava rocks are frequently visible. A number of islanders, armed witli muskets, stood near the coast ; the king met us with some of his first warriors upon the landing-place, and shook me heartily by the hand, when we had landed. There were a great many people gathered here by curiosity, but they behaved with perfect order, and neither noise nor importunity was allowed. I now stood beside the famous Tammeamea, %vhose deportment and unrestrained friendly behaviour inspired me with the greatest confidence. He took me to his thatched palace, which, after the fashion of the country, consisted of one single large room ; and, like all other houses here, was exposed to rere two ^hee was all white ually ex. trders to r of 400, Ling sent > me on- t it i that I had ac> token of vhere he nd. For lould re- went ac> f, of the with an s among of lana, were sur- ivere in a perfectly ined the well-built bananas, European singular, ater-side, urounded he human his MiUey : height of ide rather change to Bteep lava rs, armed th some of ie heartily 'eat many ived with i allowed, eportment with the d palace, one single X posed to h 1 I Ko(2ebue*8 Voyagt round tht WorU. 8ft every wind, by wliicH the oppressive beat is diminished. Wa were ofSsred some very pretty European cbairs, and, a maho« Jwny table being set before us, we were in possession of all the urniture of the palace. Although the king has several houses built in the European style, he prefers this simple habitation, not wishing to infringe upon the manners of the country ; every thing that he considers useful he imitates, and endeavours. to make his people adopt it ; stone palaces he deems supwfluous, the thatched houses being more comfortable, and he wishes to increase the happiness, and not the wants, of his subjects : his dress consisted of a white shirt, blue pantaloons, red waistcoat, and black neckcloth; but sometimes, I was told, he dressed Sjplendidly, having several embroidered uniforms, and other dresses. The chiefs, who during our audience were sitting on the ground, cut a very ludicrous figure in their black coats on their naked body; besides, they are generally too tight for them, being purchased from American ships, where the people seldom arrive to the height and bulk of the Sandwich chiefs. One of the ministers had the waist high up the back, the coat was buttoned with the greatest difficulty, and he perspired excessive ly ; his misery was very evident, but fashion did not permit him to get rid of this burden. It is singular that the savages surpass even the Europeans in supporting the incon- veniences imposed upon them by fashion. The sentinels at the door were quite naked, having a cartridge-box, with a pair of pistols, tied round their waists, and holding a musket in their hand. The king^«having poured out for us some very good wine, and having himself drank our health, I acquainted him with my intention of supplying myself here with water and wood. A dexterous and tolerably well informed young man, named Cook, was the only white person in attendance on the king, and spoke the lun^ua^e of the country with perfect ease; he had been mate in a ship, out had been settled for some years on this island, where he had gained the king's favour, and was in possession of a large estate; he now formed an interpreter between us. Tammeamea directed him to speak as follows ; ■ — '* I am informed that you are the commander of a man-of- wai', on a voyage similar to that of Cook and Vancouver, and, consequently, have nothing to do with trade ; it is therefore my intention not to enter into any with you, but to supply you gratuitously with every thing my islands produce. This matter is now settled, and requires, therefore, no more mentioning. But I beg you will tell me whether it is the wish of your em. peror that his subjects should begin to inconvenience me in my old age ? Since Tammeamea has been king uf these Islands, no European has had reason to complain of any injury done II 1 1 Xut2ebuo*s Vtnfagi rimnd iht World, him here, i havo mado my itluiidi an anylttin for all nil* tiont; and honestly lunplied every ship that wanted provi. •ions. 8ome time ago, KuHsians from the American colony of Pitka came here ; they are a nation with whom I never had any GonuKxion before; they were well received^ and supplied whn all ueceraaries, liut thry huve basely requited me, having trcut«d my subjects on the Ulaiid of Wahu with great hostility, and threatened to conquer tlie islands with men-of.war. Yet, as long as Tarn incaniea reigns tlwt will not take place ! A Uus« •ian physician, named Schelfcr, who came here some months ago, pretended he was sunt by the Emporor Alexander, to botanize on ray iitkinds : now 1 hud heard the good fame of tlie emperor, and was particularly pleased with his bravery ; I not only permitted Mr. SchuH'cr to botanize, but uU.o promised him every ui»i»tiuice, granted him a piece uf land, with peasants, tliat might insure him. against any want of provisions; in short, I tried to make his abode as pleasant to him as possible, and re« fused him no demand. But what was the consequence of my hospitality ? Even in Owhylieo he repaid my kindness with in- gratitude, which I bore with {latience ; after this he went, by Bis own will, from one island to another, settling at last upon the fruitful Island Wahu, where he proved Ifimself my worst enemy, by destroying the murui, our sanctuary, up against me, on the Island of Otuwai, king Tami submitted years ago to my government. And Scheffer is thera at this moincnt, threatening my islands.*' This was the king*a account, for the truth of which I can only vouch so far as that 7ammeamca respects every European or good conduct who settles with hiin, and his being generally known as a sincere and honest man. Of Mr. ScheBer I have no personal knowledge, but 1 have since learnt the manner he had gut on the Sandwich Islands. He served as physician in the RussO'American com* pany ship SnwarolT, which, under the command of Lieut. Losuref, sailed in 1814 from Cronstadt bound to Sittka. For reasons unknown to me, in 1815, Lasaref left Dr. Schefier in Sittka, returning to Europe without a phy^ician^ Mr. Baranof, who, as the director of all the Kusso-American colonies, usually resides in Sittka, and whose character is none of the best, took him under his protection, sent him, for sonic unknown reasons,' to the Sandwich Islands, and of his conduct thcreniy readers tire informed. 1 assured I'ummcamca, that the bad conduct of the Russians hero could by no means be attributed to the emperor, who would never countenance an illegal uct from any of his tiuhjects ; but the size of his empire prevented him being C^jriy informed of such b^d actions, which never remained up* and stirrine "amary, who had Iv' r all rii- ed f>rovt. coldny of r Had any >lied witn IR trcuUMi ility, and Yet, M A Hu8. e inotttlig under, to fame of avery ; I promised peasants, in short, I, and rcm M of my I withi in- MTCfit, by ast upon ny worst stirnne who had r is there le king*s r as that uct who cere and )wledge, landwich an com- • Lieut, a. For lieffer in Baranof, usually St, took reasons, readers lussian$ 3r, who of his 1 being led up* Kotzebu6*» Voyoge round the World. B7 '■I?: -' punished, when thej once came to his knowledge. My ^Muring him that the emperor had no' mtentioii of conquering hi» isJands, pleased him very much ; the glasses were imniediateiy emptied to the heahh of the emperor, and he became still more open than before. With a vivacity unusual for his age, he kept up tbe conversation, putting various questions respecting Rus. sia. Cpok could not always translate his words, which being peculiar to the Owhyhee language, and so witty, it fre« quently set' his ministers laughing. One of Tammeamea'* wives was passing by our house, and wished me a good nuirn- ing through the (loor, not being permitted to enter, as this was the king's dining-house. With the king's permission we took a walk with Cook, accompanied by five naked soldiers, as a guard of honor. We visited the favorite queen Kahumaima, who is mentioned by Vancouver, found the two other wives with her, and were kindly received by all of them. The house, inhabited by Kahumanna is neatly built, and very clean within ; the floor upon which the three ladies had seated themseh'es in the Asiatic maimer', was covered by fine neat mattings, and they >vere closely wrapped-up in the flnest country-siufF. Kahumanna sat [n the middle, and the other wives on both sides of her, and I was invited to sit down on the floor opposite them \ her inquisitive questions I an- swered, through Cook, to lier satisfaction. Kahumanna waa so polite as to cut a water-melon, and present me with a piece. The chief occupation of the royal ladies is smoking, combing their hair, driving away the flies with a fan, and eating. Tarn- meamea does not smoke, otherwise the custom of smoking has become so prevalent, that little children begin to smoke, be. fore they walk, and the adults carry it to such excess, aa to fall down senseless, and frequently die of the stupor. The tobacco- plant, brought here by Europeans, is carefully culti* vated, and has become indigenous ; the smell of it is very plea- sant, but the tobacco is very strong, Tliey use no tubes ; but the pipes which they always carry about them, hanging on: their side, form a part of the royal ornament ; they were very large, made of a dark wood, and lined with brass, a luxury which is only enjoyed by rich people who can atford it. Kahumanna took a few draughts with great zest, which pre- vented her from swallowing part of the smoke, making the rest pass through her nostrils; half intoxicated she handed the pipe to me, and was quite surprised at my £uropean stupidity, when I refused, giving it to her neighbour, who, after a short time, passed it to the third wife: as soon as the pipe was empty, a new one was filled, and the circulation begun again. The second occupation of the ladies is the arranging of their hair, f n > Kotzebue*t Voyagi round the World* : ^hionably cut short ; they only suffer it to grow a few inches over their. forehead, smearing it with a white, gummy sub- stance, and then comb it upwards; the white rays thus rising above the brown face, give it a singular appearance. All tile three queens were very tall, stout women, above fifty years of age, and seemed to have never been handsome. In their dress they were distinguished from other ladies by several silk shawls. Outside the door sat the kind's daughter, a'tolerably pretty girl, on a mat; behind her stood a little negro-boy, holding a silk Earasol over her head, to keep the sun from her ; two other oys drove away the flies with red plumes of feathers; the whole gToi^ looked very pretty. When I was going to rise, Kahumanna stopped me, inquiring with great curiosity after Vancouver, who during his stay here had reconciled her to her husband, between whom and her there had been some difference. The intelligence of his death seemed to give her great pain. Having left the ladies, we visited the king's son. Cook told me, that this prince, as the successor, had already entered upon bis father's duties, consisting of the discharge of some of thcf most considerable Taboos, the first of which is that no one is allowed to see the prince in the day-time, a crime punishable with death. Tammeamea has done this from political motives, to prevent a revolution after his death ; for, as soon as the son hast accomplished the first of the royal Taboos, he becomes sacred, is connected with the priesthood, and no one will venture to dis- pute the.throne with him. The prince, when he has entered upon the duties of his father, is named/ /.to—Zio, i. e. dog of ail dogs, and such a beast I actually found this one. We entered a small house, where Lio — Lio, a long,' stout, naked figure, la}^ stretched upon the ground on his belly, and only lifted up his head idly to look at his guests; near him sat some soldiers with muskets, who guarded the monster; a young, good-looking islander drove away the flies from him with a red bunch of feathers, and I should rather have taken him for the prince than the other. It is a pity that Tammeamea, who has gained imuiortal fame hy his wise government, and laid the foundation of the civilization of his people, shouid not have a successor, who could continue his government zealously and reasonably. It would be a great advantage for navigation, if the Sandwich Islands were raised to an equal degree of civi. iization with Europe; and the English, who have taken the islands under their protection, should take care that, after Tammeamea's death, a sensible man succeed him, and no re* volution take place. At last the dog of all dogs raised himself, idly gaping at us in a stupid, unmeaning manner. My em- broidered uniform seemed to please liini, and he spoke fre* few inches immy sub- thus rising e. All the "ty years of their dress silk shawls, pretty girl, ding a silk two other thers ; the tig to rise, iosity after her to her dift'erence. rreat pain. Cook told tercd upon ome of thcj : no one is punishable motives, to the son has nes sacred, ture to diso bas entered i. e. dog of one. We tout, naked ', and only m sat some a young, with a red lim for the a) who has id laid the not have a Eilously and navigation, ree of civi- : taken the that, after and no re- ed himself, . My em* spoke fre* 1 \ • r '•%■ n\ t i - lis of Kotzcbue*s Voyage round the World* 89 f)uently«about it with his naked chamberlains. I could not learn his age, as no account is kept of it; it seemed to me to be about twe;ity.t\vp years. 1 thought that his unwieldy bulk pro- ceeded from his habit of constantly lying down. At noon we returned to Tammeamea's palace, where 1 was surprised to find barges from sixty to seventy feet long, built quite in the European style, near the shore, and which are em- ployed in conveying provisions frdm one island to another. The king endeavours to entice European shipwrights into his country by paying them well. During our walk, we were constantly accompanied by a number of men and women, who were very noisy and jocular, but yet behaved with decency. Tammeamea offered us some wine, and then took us to a small neat house, close by the muraiy where a table was set out in European style. He pretended that no pork must be eaten in the house where we had been before, on account of his wives being so near; but Young, who knew the king better, thought that he had chosen the house near the murai, where he usuaDy partook of his sacerdotal meals, because he wished to of&r the pig baked for us to his gods, out of gratitude for the reconciliation with the Russians. The women are interdicted, on pain of deathjj from being present where the men take tTieir meals, on which account each family has, besides the dwelling* house, two other buildings, one for the men's and the other for the women's dinin^-place. The cloth was only laid for us Europeans, and the king, with his ministers, ate nothing, al- though they were present, alleging that pork was taboo (for- bidden) on that day. The pig, lying upon palm* branches ia tlie middle of the table, was cut up by one of the ministers, with various ceremonies ; moreover we were served with pata- tas, yams, and baked /aro-7'oo/. During dinner, the king was very loquacious, addressing himself 6rst to me, and then to his ministers, who laughed heartily at his wit. He is fond of wine, but takes it sparingly, though he always took eare to keep our glasses filled. After having dratik the health of each of us in the English fashion, he called upon us to drink that of our em- peror : this being done, one of his miinsters handed to me a feather tippet, made with great skill, and which was formerly tvorn by the king himself, on solemn occasions, the king telling me at the same time, through Cook, although he speaks Eng- lish pretty well himself, " I have heard thut your monarch is a great hero ; I love him for it, bccauisc I am one myself, and I send him this tippet as a proof of my atiectioii." When we had dined and left the house, the king ordered that my rowers should be well entertained; he gave the charge of them to one of the chiefs, the cloth was laid again, they were invited to sit Voyages, Vol, IT I. N I do Kotzebue*fl Voyage round the World: dotrn, and were waited upon with the same attention which had i>een shewed to us. A canaka, with a bunch of feathers to drive away the flies, stood behind each of them. Tanimeam^a'it first walk was to the muraix here he embraced one ot the sta- tues, adorned with fruit and pork, sayinff, *< These are our gods, which I worship : whether I do rignt or wrong in thus Worshipping them, I know not, but I follow my religion, which cannot be bad, since it teaches me to do no wrong." Thi» ejipressidn in a savage, who had raised himself to this degree of civilization by his own energy, shews nmch sound sense, and was somewhat affecting to me. When the king is in the titu- rat, no one is allowed to enter ; but we admired, in the mean time, the colossal wooden idols, being a sec of^most frightful caricatures. The king soon joined us again, taking us to the house where he had first received us ; wc sat down on the chairs, whilst the chiefs took their places on the floor. This being the king^^s dinner-hour, he excused himself for eating in our pre- sence, saying, " I have seen how the Russians eat, now you may satisfy your curiosity by seeing how Tammeamea eats.**^ ; There was no cloth laid, but the provisions were in a distant corner, upon banana leaves, which are used as dishea. War- ters brought them, creeping up to the king, where a chief took them, and put them on the table. The meal con- sisted of boiled fish, yams, taro-root, and a roasted bird, a lit- tie larger than a sparrow, which inhabits the tops of the hills, and, being rarely caught, is only brought to the royal tablcr The king ate very <^uickly and with an excellent appetite, but conversed all the time; instead of bread/ /aro-paste is used, thinned with water, and reduced it to a soft pap, which, although the king possesses very fine plate, stands in a pump- kin shell on his right side. In this he dips his fore-finger when lie is eating fish or flesh, smearing with great skill a large por- tion of it m his mouth, which uninviting manner of eating is used from the king down to the meanest subject. Tammeamea, who during the meal only made use of his fingers, and per- ceived that I noticed all his motions, said to me, '* This is the custom in my country, and 1 will not deviate from it." His spittoon-carrier never leaves him a moment, always keepins ready the box made of wood, in the shape, of a snun-bo)^, witn a lid, which is lifted^p when the king intends to spit, and then k qnic^^;' closed again. This careful preservation of the king's saliva proceeds from the superstitious belief that while they possess this treasure, their enemies cannot afflict them with any disease by enchantment. The king havfne dined, I was told what provisions I was to receive ^om Wsuiu, viz*, forty-three pigs, a proportionate number of fowls and geese, every kind of n which athera ta neamfea** \ the sta- are our gr in thus n, which " Thia Jegree of nse, And the fnu- :he mean frightful us to the le chairs, >eing the our pre- now you ea eats." Ei distant K War- I a chief eal con- rd, a lit. the hills, 'al table, tite, but is nsedy I, which. a pump- ;er when irge por- eating is meameay and per- liis is the it." His keepine >o)^, mth and then he king's hile they with any was told rty-three y kind of /• ^■■ il Kotzebue*8 Voyage round the World. dl >J fruit which the island produces) and as much wood as I chose. The king tcdd me he had sent for a trusty person, who was to ac- company me to Wabu, and who was to see that his orders were ttriotly fulfilled ; besides* I should have some one to accom- pany me into the harbour of Wahu, which privilege is not otherwise granted to Russian ships. I presented to the gene- rous king, in the name of the emperor, two metal eight-pound mortars, with all their appurtenances, on the carriages of which the name Rurick was cut ; oesides which, I gave him a quarter of a pipe of wine, his stock of that article being exhausted, and I promised to send him some bars of iron from Wahu, which he needed in the construction of his boats. Some very fine larg^ apples, which I had brought from California were somewhat new to the king ; he immediately distributed a few of them amon^ his ministers, and, as they all found theu) very good, the pips were preserved, to ascertain whether the tree would grow in their islands, and of which I had no doubt. The skill of our draughtsman, who had sketched some of the chiefs in a most happy manner and very quickly, was admired even by Tammeamea, but who ^ long time resisted my solicitations to have himself, as they say here, put upon paper, probably fuar^ ing some enchantment i and it was onl^ when 1 told him that our emperor would be ^lad to have his portrait that he con- sented to it. Mr. Choris succeeded admirably well in taking his likeness, although Tammeamea, to make it more difficult, would not set still for a moment, but was making erimaces aU the time. At five o'clock in the afternoon we took leave of the king. An attendant not Having yet arrived, I, promised to wait for him near the land. A well-made quiet horse, which he bad obtained from an American ship, he kept as a curiosity, and suffered it to run about free. A number of little boys near the shore had hardened the sand by stamping on it, and drew on it, with ability, the Rurick under sail. I was obliged to sepa- rate from Mr. Elliot, whom the king wished to nave again ; to whom probably we were indebted for our friendly re- ception. It was sun-set, our attendant had not yet arrived, and, the proximity of the land being dangerous to our ship, I fired a gun, to remind tlie king of his promise. At eight o'clock Mr. Cook arrived with my attendant, accounting for the delay by his having to come from the interior. He was a lively sensible man, named Manuja: although not a chief, he possessed the king's confidence in the highest degree, who spe- cially shewed it by entrusting to his care some of his most valu- able European goods. Cook ~ told me that Tammeamea took no notice of the rank of his subjects, generally choosing his confidents from among the lower orders, and he was seldom de- 'I r I 98 Kotzebue'^s Voyage round the World. ceived in his choice. He treats his nobility with justice, but severity ; and, having little confidence in them, he generally )DbliQ;es them to accompany him on his journeys, by which means he deprives them of any opportunity they might otherwise have of conspiring; against him. They have not forgotten that Tarn* meamea is the conqueror of their lands, ana they would un- doubtedly try to regain their dominions, if he did not know how to keep them in subjection. With the assistance of a gen« tie land-breeze, which always springe up here after sun^tiet, we began our course to Wahu. I would advise every navigator sailing from Owhyhee to Wahu, to keep near the coast, where the land and sea breezus are the strongest, while, at a distance of a few miles from the land, calms caused by the Mauna-Roa are constr.nt. On reaching the channel between Owhyhee and Muve he tvill find the true trade-wind, which will carry a vessel straight io Wahu, without having any thing to fear from the ]VIauna-Roa. For those of my readers who may not understand what is meant by land and sea-breezes, a short explanation will not be without interest. Nearly all high islands between the tro- pics are perpetually exposed to the trade-wind, the coast situ- ated under the wind, that is to say, the one opposite to that on which the trade-wind blows, produces, in the day-time, a wind from the sea, which blows upon the land, while at night it blows in a contrary direction. The explanation of this pheno- menon is very easy: in the .day-time the land is so heated by the sun that it is warmer than the sea ; whence it is that the air rushes from the cooler parts to the warmer, and produces what is called a sea-breeze. At night it is the reverse; the sea is warmer than the land, and produces the land-breeze. On the aSth of November, we were becalmed nearly the whole day; the islands of Owhyhee and Muve rose in gigantic importance on each side of us. From my measurements I found that the heights of the highest hills in Owhyhee and Muve were as follow : — Mauna-Hoa, in Owyhee--. — 2482,4 toises. - Mauna-Koah, do 2180,1 — ' Mauna-Wororai, do. l687,l -^ Highest peak in Muve - — --.- 1669,1 — During the night of the 2(jth, we were obliged to keep near Wahititi Bay. In Owhyhee they said that the current near Waihu ran so strong to the west that we ought to take care not to get under the wind ot the island ; but I experienced the re- verse, finding, at day-break, that a current had drifted us eight miles to the 8.K. although the wind blew very strong from that direction, and the ship was very much tossed about. ' Early on the 27th, i steered towards the west point of fFdi- Kotzebue*! /> 'tfe rounc m World. M hihhi Bay, distinguishable b> ihe 8ug»i'loar hill upon it, called by the English, Diamond Hill, from iHe quartz-crystal found there, and supposed by some to be diamonds, an opinion which is still entertained, and for which reason the natives are prohi- bited from visiting it. This point we doubled towards noon. Waliu is known as the most fruitful island of the whole groupc, and is called the garden of the Sandwich Islands. The sharp, pointed rocks which form the S.E. part of the island, rising 529 toises above the sea, give no such idea, which however is confirmed on having turned the Yellow Diamond Hill, by the most beautiful prospect. Valleys covered with banana and palm-trees, in which the huts of the savages lie scattered, line the shore; behind these the land rises gradually, all the hills being covered with beautiful verdure, indicating industry. This is the southern part of tiie island, which runs in a straight line from east to west twenty miles, without any change in the con. dition of the land. Here too is seen the highest mountain on the island, which is on the N.W. part of it, and is by my cal. culation 631,2 toises high. We sailed by the village IVahihut, (near which Vancouver anchored on a dangerous spot, without suspectingthat he was close to a convenient harbour,) and already saw, through our glasses, thetoM'n Hana-rura,'which lies close by the harbour of that name. We were met by a canoe with three men ; Manuja hailed them, jumped into the water, and soon swam to the boat, in which he rowed to land, in order to inform the commander of the place of our arrival, and to send lis a pilot. We were now near Hana-rura, where some houses, built in the European style, formed a striking contrast to the huts of the natives. In the harbour we descried a fort with Tammeamea's flag hoisted upon it ; near it were several ships at anchor, and the whole had a European appearance. In the iiftertioon the governor sent us a pilot ; he was an Englishman by birth, named Hebottel, and was employed here by the king to bring ail ships into the harbour that came on this coast. At the entrance of it he made us drop our anchor. The depth was eight fathoms, and the bottom was composed of coral and sand. The wind blows here the whole day from the harbour, where- fore the ship must wait outside of it till the morning, a little before sun-rise, when a calm ensues, of which advantage is taken to tow the ship into port. I was sorry to be at anchor in this place, as, by a strong south wind, which often blows near Wahu, a ship is easily lost: a reef, over which the surf broke with great violence, was only a hundred fathoms from us, and yet this is the only place where ships can come to anchor, bc> cause a little farther the depth is unfathomable ; besides the con- dition of the anchorage was so far from b^ing good, that our \ 94 Ko(zebue*f Voyage round the JVarid. cables luflered considerably, in the space of twelre liours. The whole coa^t is lurronndetl by coraUrrefs, some of which cxtepd a mile and more into the sea, and beliind these Nature bas formed the beautiful harbour of Hana-ru a, which is pro- tected on the seaottide by the reefs, and might be called the most beautiful spot in the world, if the entrance were not too shallow for large shipH. As soon as wc had cast anchor, 1 went on shore, to pay my respects to the governor, Kartimoku ; but, although Manuja bad f^one before us, and acquainted the inhabitai' ts with the king*!t orders, they were still very much terrified with the appearance of a Russian nfian>of-war, and betook them- •elves to arms. On landing, 1 was received by Mr. Young, an Englishman, and one of the first confidants of the king, who bas lived upon these islands for twenty years, and had now been •ent to Wanu to build a fort. The armed islanders sent forth the most horrible cries, but Mr. Young encouraged me, and helped me out of the boat. We went, accompanied by a number of soldiers, who kept off the importunities of the mob, to his bouse, where Kareimoku, with the chief nobility, soon joined vs. Both he and his suite were dressed in the costume of the country, consisting of a large white dress, made of stuff spun from the bark of trees, and thrown in the Roman style over the right shoulder; besides which they had a curtridge>box and a brace of pistols tied round their naked waists. The whole party came from the fort, where preparations for the defence bad already been made. Kareimoku's athletic figure, united to bis noble deportment, appeared to advantage in the Roman costume ; his countenance betrayed sense, which he actually possesses, for which reason the English on the island give him the name of Pitt. He welcomed me after the European manner, by shaking hands \ and, having invited me to a seat, he sat down with his attendants, when my first endeavour was to prevent any suspi- cion concerning us. His countenance soon cleared up, and he spoke as follows : '* The gods arc witnesses that we have not wronged the Russians, bit they havu rendered us evil for good !** I assured him ail that Scheficr (about whom he principally com- plained) had done here, was against the will of our emperor, and endeavoured also to quiet him respecting the future, of which he still seemed to entertain some fear : we then parted with his promising us to fuHil Tanimeaniea's orders in every respect. In the harbour lay three ships, two of which, one large three-master and a pretty brig, belonged to the king, who had purchased them for sundal. The three-master, which bears the name of Ahatross, serves for the present as a trans- port, to carry provisions from Wahu to Owhyhee, but will in fu- ture go to Canton with sandal under Tammeamca's Hag, to Kotzebue*t Voyage round the World, M hours, which ^Jature is pro- lemost halloir shore, though bttarts id with : them- ng, an ?, who )Mr been >rth the helped nber of to his I joined : of the un from he right a brace ky came already is nobus me i his ises, for lame of shaking with his y suspi- and he ave not good 1" lly com- mperor, nure, of parted n every ich, one he king, , which a trans- ill in fu- flag, to barter it for Chine' a goods. The English gorerninent hw bound itself to respect his flag every-where, and to support hii trade in Canton. The bris bears the name of the queen, Kahumanna; she can, according to her sisse, carry eighteen guns, is built for quick.sailing, nke a mun-of-war, and is now used by Tammeamea for that purpose. This brig was origi- nally built by the French for a privateer, and bore at that time the name of La Grande Guimbardc ; she was taken bv the Eng- lish and sold to English merchants, who gave her the name of the Forester, of London. This ship cume into the South Sea with Captain Piccord, who made several voyages in her from the western coast of America to Canton, and at last sold it to Tammeamea. After the sale of the ship, the second offi- cer, A. Adams, went into the king's service, became the com- mander of her, and, as such, received fifty piastres a month and all provisions, which were sent to him daily ; the crew consisted of six Europeans and some natives. The third ship, the Traveller, of Philadelphia, under American colours, watt just sailing round, when I arrived with the Rurick. The master of her, named Wilcox, whose brother is the American consul in Canton, paid ine a visit. Mr. W. had left Canton some years, and had laden his shijp with Chinese goods, to carry on the smuggling trade with the Spanish colonies on the western coast of America, but he did not succeed ; after many fruitless attempts to land his cargo, being exhausted by tne long voyage, he sailed to Botany Bay to recruit his strength, and supply himself with provisions, where the governor of Port Jackson gave him a let- t'^r from the King oFEngland to Tammeamea, together with various presents, amongst which were some richly embroidered uniforms. Mr. W. also told me, that, by order of the English government, a fine ship was building for Tammeamea in Port Jackson. By all this it appears, that the English have taken the Sandwich Islands under their especial protection, and per- haps consider them secretly as their property, and will un- doubtedly, on the first opportunity, take possession of them, Mr. W. now intended to sail to the coast of California, to try his fortune there. Before we parted, he informed me of a group of islands, which was discovered in 1814, by the ship America, Captain Walther, of the United States, while sailing from the Marquesas to Canton. This group is said to consist of low, wooded, coral islands, and to be about thirty miles in circum- ference. On their west side the captain had found a convenient anchorage and landed there, in order to leave some goats on the island. The observed latitude is, iJ*» 48' N., long., by the chronometers, 159" 15' W. of Greenwich. On the 28th, at day.break, we fired a signal-gun, and soon ^A* 96 Kotzebue's Voyage round the IVorldt the royal pilate, accompanied b}' eight double canoes, each witti from sixteen tc^ twenty rowers, appeared. In each of them was the owner, called here by the English, Jerri, or Chief, to main* tain order in the towing \ old Youn^ sat in a small light bout, and directed the whole. The shouts in the boats were gratify, ing, they joked and laughed, even the work was performed play fully y and the islanders, appeared as sportive as children. We had a perfect calm ; the anchors were weighed, and the canoes towed us, with such violence that the liurick, accord- ing to the log, went three miles an hour. In half an hour we had reached the harbour, and cast anchor within a pistol- shot of the land, opposite the fort, in eight fathoms. Young now came oii-board, to inform me that the canoes did not be- long to the king, and that I had to give to each owner three Eiasters, for which, as the commander of a man-of-war, I should e exempted on the payment of anchorage.fee, levied here on all. merchant ships, which are obliged to pay a piaster for every loot of water that they draw. Although I thought it strange that I had not been informed of it before, I was obliged to sub- mit to the custom, by paying forty piasters. Tiie anchors were scarcely dropped, before a host of Sandwich women, some swimming, and others in boats, surrounded our ship ; they all wished to come on-board, and were moitified, wlien 1 refused them admittance. I had, in order to undertake the necessary repairs, declared the ship tabco for some days ; the amiable nymphs, sang us some love-songs, and then turned back, surprized at our severity. On the 29th, they began to supply us with provisions ; we re* ccived daily tarOf yams, cocoa-nuts^ bananas^ and waler-mdonst in abundance. The hogs were ko large, that the whole of the crew could not eat one in two days ; on which account more than half the number we received we did not eat*, some of which I salted, and the rest I carried away alive. The pork is so well salted by a Spaniard of AJarinif (who has been here for several years, and was formerly a favourite of the king^s,) that I brunght some of it to St. Petersburg in excellent preservation. In the Spanish colonies of America, the meat is not salted, because they think that, even while suiting, it putrifies : in Chili they take for ship's provisions, ilesh dried in the sun, and which has lost all its juice. In hot climatesi particular care should be paid to the salting of meat, to take out the bones, and squeeze out the blood, by placing heavy weights upon it. To-day, a misunderstanding roused the people against us, they had already taken up arms, and the atr'air would perhaps have terminated seriously, if Young had not interfered in time. The case was as follows: — the harbour of Hana-rwa not seer all Krq agr spii ill wiltl !in was > main* boiitf rratify- tbrmed lildren. ind the iccord- an hour pistol- Ypuiig not be- r three [ should here on jr every . strange to sub- anchors women, ir ship ; i, when :ake the ays; the k turned i we re- -melonst e of the lore than f which I s so well tr s(.^verul L brought , In the because Ihili they I'hich has hould be squeeze gainst us, 1 perhaps 1 in time. rxtra wo^ KotZttbue*s Voyage round the World. ^ having been, to my knowledge, surveyed by any one before, and crt tainly being known but to few navigators, I intended to draw a |)lar) of it, and had therefore long poles, with flags af« fixed to them, fastened in the ground in several places. The sight of these flags exasperated the people, for SchefFer had once hoisted a Russian-flag, saying, ** I take possession of the island,*' and therefore they had no doubt but I was taking thd first step towards a conquest. On Young*s representation, I changed the fatal flags for brooms, which restored tranquillity. To gain the confidence of the people completely, I invited Kareimoku to see us the next day. The ship Abatross left Wahu to take provisions to Owhyhee. On the 30th of November, Karermokii came on«board xvith his wife, Mr. Young, and the chief nobility (Jerris), among whom was the brother of Queen Kahumanna; also Younjg brought his wife, a near relation of Tammeamea. Kareimoku was very friendly; he shook my hands heartily, saying several times, ** Jroha!" (God be with you) ; my guests were all in their best dre^ises; I could scarcely recognize Kareimoku, who appeared in the dress of an English mate, with polished boots and cooked hat ; but every thing fitted him so tightly that he could not move a limb, and was almost suffocated by the heat; the other Jeiris moved about, no less pompously, but quite as uncomfortably, forming a strange assemblage of Siiilors, dandies, and quakers. The rage is so great here, that no per- son can rest without having i^onio articles of European dress; some only walk in a shirt, sonte in trowsers, and others strut about in a waistcoat. The Americans buy up alt the clothes which have become out of fashion, and then sell them here to great advantage. One of my guests had on an immensely lone coat, with buttons as large as tea-cups, with which he seemed unceasingly delighted. The ladies, on the contrary, are quite wrapt up "in their native cloth (Taffa)^ only wearing a silk handkerchief about the neck. Mi';!. Youn^, as the wife of an European, forms an exception, by dressing in rich Chinese silk, after the European fashion. Her pleasant countenance and modest behaviour formed a striking contrast with Kareimoku*s wife, » tall stout woman, who behaved in a very masculine manner. There being no room in the cabin for sO large a com- pany, the cloth was laid in the fore-castle, but the islanders ate notning. I unfortunately did not know that pork must be con- secrated in the murai before they can eat it ; not only this, but all the other meats were taboo, having been roasted at the same flk-Q as the pork. At my urgent request, however, they at last agreed to eat some biscuit, cheese, and fruit ; the wine and spirits did not seem /a6o0, as they emptied their glasses i \\ i^'. Voyages, Vol. VI. they emptied O very 9S. Kotzcbim^ Fejfagt round the World, i! frequently. Tliese islanders arc passionately fond of 8pirituou«> Tiquorsi they empty a bottle of rum at one draught, with the Greatest ease, and it is inconceivable how much of it they can rink. The ladies, who were not allowed to eat in the presence of their husbands, kept closer to the wine. Kareimoku pro* posed the health of our emperor and Tammeamea. My guests were pleased with every thing on-board, particularly witn the portrait of my father, that hung in the cabin, and which they fancied was alive, till they touched it. They immediately re- cognized Tammcaniea's portrait ; and, when it became known in the country that we had Tammeamea on paper, we daily re- ceived a crowd of visitors, who wished to see him. At four o^clock my guests left the ship, well pleased with their recep- tion, since 1 endeavoured to make up for their lost dinner, by some trifling presents. At sunset, this evening, a taboo is \o begin for Kareimoku and his first jerris, which is to last one night and two days. The higher the people are here in rank, the more holy duties they have to perform, and every full an(i> \ new moon they have each a taboo; as soon as the sun ap«t proaches the horizon, they enter the murai, which they do not leave again till the appointed time is over. Mr. Chamisso ob-. tained permission to perform the whole taboo in the murai\ he is undoubtedly the first European who has had this favour con- ferred on him. After Kareimoku had visited me, the inhabitants became convinced of my friendly sentiments, and 1 could go on. shore without any doubt. I therefore went immc 'iiately to ffana-rura, where the inhabitants behaved very modestly, and seemed to wish me to enter their houses; the whole of the family then collected round me, presenting me with refresh- ments, prattling and playing like cnildren. Tobacco-pipes are found in every cottage, and smoking seems to be one of their chief enjoyments. The houses in Hana-rura, which are some- times built together, and sometimes detached, resemble those ii» Owhyhee. Some Europeans, who have settled here, inhabit houses which are something between ours and theirs. The Spaniard Marini^ who has built himself a house of stone, has introduced many useful plants, and is the only one who has a considerable flock of cattle and sheep. There is a great quan- tity of cattle in the interior, which, having been brought here soinc years since by Europeans, are said to have increased very much ; however, they have become so savage, that they, are only killed with muskets. Every evening a naked islander drives home Marines flock, in wliich there are even some, horses, that he brought from America. An Englishman, named( Holmes, has also lived here these thirty years, and formerly occu- pied Kareimoku*s post. As all Europeans who settle here marrjf. rituou»' ith the icy can resence lu prO' r guests ith the ch they tely re- knowii aiiy re- At four recep- jiier, by 00 is to last one n rank, full and sun ap- y do not lisso ob« iraii he Dur con- labitaiits d go on , ately lo tly, anrl i of the refresh. )ipes are of their re some- thosc uh inhabit s. The one, has ho has a, at quan* ght here ncrcased lut they islander ;n some , named( 'lyoccu- re marry. itotzebue's Voyage round the World, Sandwich women, the original face must in time be extinct. My intention of seeing the fort was frustrated, by a sentinel calling out the word ** Tahoo /** 1 afterwards learned %hat ad- mission is refused to every stranger, especially Europeans. Kareimoku is always in the fort, where they are still at work, and the natives not being familiar with the use of cannon, tliey have appointed an Englishman, named George Berkley, who had formerly served in a merchantman as commandant. The fort is nothing more than a square, supplied with loop-hotes, the walk of which are two fathoms high, and built of coral stone. I went to see Young, who shewed me king George's letter to Tammeamea, which was brought by Wilcox. It was written in English, and Tammeamea was styled Majetfty . I here give the principal contents of it: *< King George, of England, ^turns his sincere thinks to the king of the Sandwich Isles, for the feather cloak sent to him through the frigate Cornivallis, He assures him of his friendship and protection, infofming him that he has ordered the whole of the English navy to treat wi|h respect all ships sailing under tlte flag of his maje:>ty King Tammeamea." The letter concludes by mentioning the ship which is building for him in Port Jackson, and the presents sent to his majesty; and, from the whole, it appears, that Tammeamea is recognized by the English government as king. AW writings' which the latter receives, are entrusted to the care of Mr.' Young, who possesses the confidence of the king, but he is old and weak, and will probably soon follow his old companion Davis (mentioned by Vancouver,) to the grave* The sun was just setting, when I passed by the muraif which Kareimoku, accompanied by Chamisso, and several jeTri«« was just entering. This mtirai has Ijeen built in ^reat taste, at some distance from ffana-rurOf because the inhabitants were obliged to destroy the old one, which had been polluted by the intrusion of SchefFer's people. The fury of the natives was unbounded, and, without Young's interference, ScheflPer's people would have paid for it with their lives. The procession on entering the viurai oh^ served the deepest silenee} soon after that some came out again from the four sides, lifted up their hands to heaven, and seem- ed to invoke some one with loud cries; and, after having re- peated this several times, withdrew again. Hereupon two fellows rushed out furiously, running with all their speed, in opposite directions, in a circle, round tlie nmrai; and I with- dtew, for fear 1 should come in contact with them, which, would have communicated their sanctity to me, and ! should have been obliged to have celebrated a taboo m the murai, an' amusement which I had rather forego, as I expected to have my curiosity satisfied throjugh Mr. Chamisso. 100 KotsEfbu«*s Voyagt round the World, ' December 4. By Kareimoku^s inviuUoni I was present at a native daiice. We were taken to a bouse, before wbich a large place was prepared for the solemnity, which was already sur^ rounded by several spectatprs, mats having been spread for us on the ground in the middle of the circle. The governor sent an apology, through Mr. Young, for his absence, alleging that bi& lady was so drunk that he could not leave her. How« ever strange this excuse may seem, it was nevertheless Jrue,; and I was obliged to admit it. Tlie women here are generally' more addicted to drinking than the men. We sat down and the dance began immediately. The music was performed by four men, who, hy striking with small sticks upon pumpkins, scooped out, produced a hollow sound, which accompanied the' song. Three dancers by profession, who go from one island to another and perform for money, stepped forward, quite naked,, with the exception of bracelets of buars* tusks, and leggings, of dogs' teeth. They placed themselves opposite us, beside each other, and expressed, by motions of the whole body, the M'ords of the accompanying soug. They were particularly clever in changing ttieir couutenanccs every moment, to adapt them to the motions of the bod}'. The spectators were eorap- tured, entering at every pause into the circle to bestow gifts upon the dancers, and at last, in their enthusiasm, even gave their sijk handkerchiefs. Tlie men having finished, the scene changed, and a number of young girls placed themselves in three rows. Their heads and shoulders were adorned with neat gar- lands of flowers, their necks with beads» and various other things, and only the lower parts of their bodies M-ere covered with pretty tapa ; this group looked pretty, as they made the most graceful motions to the monotonous music. The last rows followed the first, and always imitated the motions of those who toolt the lead. The whole had the expression of pure nature, aqd gave me more pleasure than the best executed European ballet. The scene of performance was bordered by a hedge of bamboo, behind which a small house stood concealed, and a large hog, guarded by two kanakas, walked to and fro, in front, and was tenderly stroked by every passing chief} these caresses struck spe, and I learned, through Young, that in the house WiMi a son of Tammeamca's, a child nine months old, whose education had been entrusted to Kareimoka, and that this was the taboo-hog, which was to be offered to the gods when the younff prince performed his first holy duties in the murai. The dance was given in honour of the little prince, although he could take no part in Uie amusements, and, in fact, dare not ap- ]^ear before a certain aee; still his high birth demanded that irequeat festivals should be given in honour of him. mtat a I » large idy »ar-> ead for ;overrior nileging How» SS8 irue, : enerally' 3wn and faed by tmpkins, inied the< island to 9 naked, S| beside ody, the ticularly to adapt 'e enrap. tow gifts vengave .be scene s in three (leat gar- US other covered made the last rows hose who e nature, European hedge of id a large ront, and caresses he house d, whose i this was when the e murai. hough he re not ap- nded that y/a//4^. a//f>c€/ o^,mc 'yMoy/e^y/y/t/^^/tyc y^f2r. from a high spring or brook, was capable of watering a whole £Iantation. When the taro is planted, the water is lowered to alf a foot, and the slip of a gathered plant stuck into the slime, where it immediately takes root, and is reaped after three months. The taro requires much room, having strong roots; it strikes forth long stalks and great leaves, which appear to swim on the water. In the spacer between the fields, which are between three and six feet broad, are pleasant shady walks, planted on both sides with sugar-cane or bananas. They also use the taro- fields as fish-ponds. In the same manner as they keep the river-fish here, they keep the fish in the sea, where they sometimes use the outer coral-ree&, and form from them to the shore a wali of coraUstones, thus making fish-* preserves ii> the sea« Such a preserve requires much labour, put by no means so much art as the taro-fields, which serve for both purposeSb 1 have seen whole mountains covered with these fields, througb %Thich the water ilowed gradually down, each sluice forming a •cascade, and falling between sugar-canes and banana-trees into the next tank. Sugar plantations, taro-fields, and faruscattered plantations succeeded each other on our road, and we had inad. vertently travelled five miles to the great village Mauna-Roa, situated iti a nieasunt valley, on the declivity of a lull. A boisterous rivulet, of the same name, falls here into the sea.< 3efore the village, consisting of small meat thatched houses, lay two groves of cocoa and bread-fruit trees, through which >ve passed, in order to rest on a hill on the other side. Here we had a fine view of the harbour; 1 took out my instrum'ents and made a few angles, at which tlie surrounding natives were much terrified, expecting, as Berkley said, a piece of enchant* Qient. As these islanders seldom see an European, they looked "^ ^t us with the greater curiosity; lor the rest were a good-lieart-' f^ spt pf |)cople| who were very attcuiive to us, djinc^d and Kotze\n\t\yoyage round the IVorldi 103 aang for joy at one little presents, and were very sorry when we left them. In several houses we heard aloud whining, and we* learned that there were sick men in them, for whom their wives: were weeping*, it being the custom here, as soon as a man fall» sick, for his wife and female relations to assemble round his bed to weep aloud for his situation, and tear their Imir and faces, in the hope of producing him alleviatimt, and oftentirae» a cure. At the death of a ^reat j'errir the practice of burying his favourite with him is still kept up here. Berkley told me that the priests had already appointed Tammeamea*8 con»pa' nions, and had not kept their fate a secret from them; because these victims were proud of being able to purchase this honour by the most terrible death* I myself once saw in Wahu, one of these victims, a man, who was always cheerful and happy. At the king's death they are led, bound, into tlie royal murai, and there killed, with great ceremony, by the priests. The river Mauna-roa, which, perhaps, is one of the broadest in the is- land, derives its name from the mountain Mauna>roain Owhy- bee, and means, literally translated, Mountain-high. Oppo>- site the village is a convenient harbour, which, however, has a dangerous eutrance, between reefs. After we had rested suf-' ficiently, we continued our journey, left the shore, and crossed^ a promontory, extending far into the sea, where the ruad led us over a high mountain. Upon this elevation, the N.E. trade- wind diminished the oppressive heat, but sometimes blew sc» strong as totitreaten to precipitate us down the steep precipice. We noticed here several tapa-plantationsi, a tree from whose bark the natives make their cloth. The manufacturing of this cloth is laborious, as the bark is beaten in the water till it ac- quires the necessary fineness. Only old women are employed in it, whilst the young ones are allowed to live in idleness, and spend their time in receiving the courtship of the men. Ouc road led us, after two hours* walk, into a charming vallev,, where we sat down under the shade of bread-fruit trees, on tne bank of a salt-lake, whose owner, a jerri of rank, derives a considerable revenue from the bank of this lake being covered with the mobt beautiful salt. There was a kind of plungeon on it, which, although they cannot fly, are very difficult to shoot, because, at the moment the powder in the pan takes fire, they dive under water ; nevertheless one of our islanders shot two for me. Mr. Berkley told me of a species of wild-duck, such, as we have in Europe, which came there in January from the north, hatch their eggs, and return again in the beginning of spring. This accouuty which 1 had no reason to doubt, Mr. Bu speaking from his own experience, made mc suppose there must be some undiscovered land about the latitude of 45^, from, 104 ( If |l I \l Kotzcbue*s Voyage rmid the W<^rl«l» which tliesc birds migrate, for we cannot suppose they make the long voyage from the Aiioutskan Isles, in North-America^ for the sake of enjoying a second summer h)ere. After having refreshed ourselves a little, we passed over a high hill, and soon after came into a beautifully cultivated plain. At this distance from the capital Hana-rura, we were still greater objects of ad- miration to the inhabitants. A pretty little girl, six years old, jumped fearlessly about us, calling oat to the others, who were older, thougli much more timid, — ** Come here, and look at these strai>ge white people : what fine tapa they have on \ what shining things they carry! don^t be stupid, come here!" I was delighted with the simplicity of the chiM, and hung a string of beads round her neck, a treasure which for a moment em- barrassed her. The other children now came running to her, expressing their admiration by clapping their hands, but she admired herself in silence. The country is here indescribably beautiful; fields and villages are intermixed with cocoa and bread-fruit plantations. We now passed through a walk of trees, which I thought w -ht from Hana-rura. It was a pretty vil- lage, befonging to KareitTioku, which took its name, Wauj&u, from a (]uick rumung rivulet that falls here into the sea. I di-* reeted m-y attendants to procnrc me a boat, to go the next morn- ing to Pearl River, fronr which we were not far off ; but their endeavours were in vain, rhe inhabitants having left the coast for some days, on a fishing expedition. There was only one boat, belonging to a jerri, in Hana rura, which his people did not dure to lend us. The ii^abitants of the village had been ordered by the governor to treat us well, therefore their f^rst taak was to prepare us a meal. A sucking-pig was baked On the ground, with taro and patatas ; fresh nsh was furntshed from the'taroi-fields, and the wine we supplied otirselves. We also , "• iiiiiiMia they make -America, ter having and soon is distance ects of ad- years old, who were nd look at on ! what here I" I ng a string Muent em* ing to her. Is, but she lescribably cocoa and a walk oi' leighf of a ho noticed rited me to ; I bit one» although 1 »aiall pric. g. He la- nne to strip , who now Indian fig* ve estates, e well cul* r was filled I. At five o stay that pretty vil- I, Waujau, sea. i di-« next morn- ; but their ft the coast s only one people did 3 had been their first was baked ,s furnished s. We also Kotzebue*s Fn^age round the World* 10& gfive some wine to the natives that surrounded us, which they relished much, as they then tasted it for the first time; our guests were very happy, , and the evening was spent in singinsf and dancing. We Cound afterwards that we had been robbed of a knife, and my attendants, who were ans^verable for the conduct of the natives, tried in vain to discover the thief. These islanders-seldom rob each other, and such a deed is.al- ways punished with public contempt, and often with death; but to. steal any thing from an European, is reckoned a feat, of vrhioh they are very proud. They have a good idea of writing, and; a letter seems to them a thing of great value, of which Berkley told me the following exbmp^: When he was in Owhybee, he wrote to a friend m Wahu, and gave the letter to. a kanaka (peasant) who was going there, and nad promised to. deliver! it faithfully, but kept.it as a great treasure. Some- months afterwards, on tlie appearance of a European ship, the kanaka went on-board with his treasure to offer it to the cap- tain at a high price; the latter, an old friend of Berkley's, forf tunately knew his band- writing, and bought the letter.— 'Tliey prepared dean mats for our beds ; but the liveliness of the gnats, which .danced merrily over our faces, deprived us. of sleep ; and the next morning, being unable to cet a boat, we were obUged to return without having seen Pearl River. There are several islandsAtithe mouth of this river, and it is deep enough for the largest line-of-battle ships to anchor in a few fathoms from the bank, , and broad enough for a hundred ships to ride conveni- ently, The entrance of Pearl River is the same as that to the harbour of Hana-rura; but the soundings between the reefd makes the. passage more difficult. If this place was in. the hands of Europeans, they would find means to make it one of the best harbours in the world. There are in the river sharks of I aut enormous size, and many instances of men having been swallowed by them whilst bathing. The natives have made an artificial bank of coral.^tone near the shore, in which tbey keep a large shark; where, as I was informed, they sometimes throw adults, but frequently children, as a sacrifice* Upon our return, I perceived several half-putrified hogs hang- ing on trees, and 1 .was told that this was done by the keepers, to convince their masters that they had died, and not been killed by them. In the evening, we safely arrived on-board. On the Qth of December we were invited, by Kareimoku and Manuja, to a tournament. Young was surprised at this, and called it a particular favour, owing to my being the commander of thq.firstmannof-^yar.thit appeared in Hano^rura. The is« landers make. a great distinction between, men-of-war and mer<4 chautmcn.i with the. latter, they take all.kindsi of jiberties, for \0XAGK9, Vol. rjr P iN ; . ! im Kotzebue's Voyage round the World, they detest the designs of European merchants to cheat theiti by every stratagem, by which they have lost their respect, itareiinoku had a good reason for refusing me the sight of a tburnament, the natives, since they have been conquered by Tamineanica, bcitij? always ready to revolt. Only the nobility can participate in this game, which frequently turns to earnest, as it never terminates without there being some wounded or Itilled. Two years ago, when Tammeamea was on a visit here, a grand tournament was given, but he kept his soldiers with loaded muskets near him, who had also to quell the fury of the combatants. It was, therefore, but common prudence in Ka- reimuku when he requested my people would assist him. Pre- tious notice is given of the day appointed for the tournament, to give time to tlie nt»hiiity to assemble from all parts, in order to display their courage and skill. They often muster about a hundred, who divide in equal numbers, and select a large place ibr their Bold of battle. Both parties take their position, and, the leaders of each stepping forward in the middle of the place, they aim at each other with darts, of which they havesei^eral in their hands, while each tries to avoid the weapons of his anta- . gonist by dexterous turns of the body ; and both are in constant motion, jumping from one place to another, stooping, and at the same instant throwing their darts. In the mean time the ar- mies, waiting for the issue, stand motionless and silent, and the greatest spirit animates the party whose chief has proved victorious, as they consider it a good omen. After this pre- hide, the armies begin to move, troop advances against troop, in a moment they are all engaged, and the air is filled with blunted darts, for only such are used in these battles. Their real tactics consist in breaking the enemy's ranks, in attacking detached parties with vigour, and making prisoners \ therefore a skilful leader never misses the opportunity of profiting by his opponent's faults, or enticing him to draw his greatest strength to one side, and thus giving up the weaker part to his superi- ority. If such a ruse succeeds, tlic victory is decided, and the party deceived are conquered. The same means are pursued m real battles, only with this difference, that the lances are sharp enough to transfix an enemy at the distance of ten paces; in real battles they also throw stones with slings,. and make use of large clubs of heavy wood. Fire-arms being now intro- duced, the use of lances will probably soon be put aside. Tammeamea is generally considered as the most dexterous thrower ; he often, to shew his ability in it, had fourteen lances thrown at him at once, cither of which would have proved mor- tal, had he not escaped them all with great dexterity. The reputation of his invmcibic bravery made the conquest of the islands -asy for him. When he ai>peared.with his licet before *•■■■',■ .. Kotzebue*s Voyage round the World. 107 iheat them r respect, sight of a quered by he nobility to earnest, otinded or , visit here, Idiers with fury of the snce in Ka- jim. Pre- jurnament, :s, in order ter about a large place sition, and) [ the place, e several in of his anta- in constant mg and at time the ar- silent, and has proved er this pre- linst troop, filled with es. Their n attacking therefore a iting by his sst strength his superi- d, and the xtQ pursued lances are ten paces ; and make now intro- put aside, dexterous teen lances roved mor- irity. The |ue8t of the licet before Wahu, the king of the island fled to the hills, confident that the practice of killing the conquered would also be put iti ex- ecL ion against him. '< I must die," he said to his friends; *' but it shall not be by the hands of my conqueror, he shall not have this triumph; I will sacrifice myselt to the gods!** His body was afterwards found in a cavern at the top of a mountain* We went on shore in the afternoon, and found above sixty jerrw assembled for the tournament, but whose lances, made of the tops of the sugar-cane, were not very terrible. They di- vided, the game began, and, although the governor, who par- ticipated in it, did not let it come to a decided battle, yet seve- ral were very dangerously wounded. Nevertheless, the sight of such a contest was very amusing. On the 13th, we took in our provisions, which were brought in such abundance, that our ship was not able '.a contain the whole. We received taro^ bread-fruit, yams, patatas, cocoa- nuts, sugar-cane, and water-melons, besides seventeen hogs, some goats, fowls, and ducks. The hogs are far preferable in taste to the European, owing probably to their food, which consists of sugar-cane. Captain Adams, a very intelligent man, of great experience, dined with us. Among other things, he told me, that, a few years ago, the Americans of the United States discovered an island on the coast of California, which, on account of the multitude of sea-otters found upon it, was named Sea-Otter Island. Its southern point lies in 33° \1' N. lat.; long., by moon distances, 240*^.50' E. of Greenwich; its circumference is between fifty and sixty miles, and, N.N.W. of this island, is said to be a dangerous reef. He farther obj- served, that, while in Europe, they endeavoured to destroy the slave-trade ; the Americans try to promote it. I'^or the purpose of buying slaves, the American ships repair to the N.W. coast of America, in lat. 45®, where the population is numerous. The savages perceiving tliat they are better paid for men than skins, turn to the horrible trade of kidnapping; and, being all of them supplied with tire-arms by the American traders, they find it easy to overpower the tribes in the interior, and to bar- ter them with the ships for clothes. Strong examples of filial affection are frequently seen there, and eVen by those minsters, who try to profit by it : when, for instance, a son, hearing of his father being in slavery, conies to redeem him, they accept of his offer, the youth being of more value than the old man. When in this manner the ship is well loaded with slaves, they go to the north, as high as lat. 53°, where the natives purchase these unhappy people, for slavery, for sea-otter skins, which the Europeans sell dearly in China. They also are fond of abusing Tummeamea's confidence, and an American captain. • ii 106 Kotzebue*8 Voyage round the World, whom he had once entrusted ivitli a vessel loaded with sandal, to carry to China, never returned. Some sailors are annually dismissed hei e for their bad conduct ; and, as these only give bad examples, and do nothing but mischief, it is to be expected that, in time, they will completely abuse the good-natare of the natives. The missionaries do them still more harm, as they destroy whole nations, by the religious hatred which they kin. die*. Adams possesses the full confidence of the king, and 4ias been sent with the brig to Wahu to prevent any insurrec- *tion that might be attempted. At Owhyhee he fears nothing, ■being born there and destined for a king by the gods ; but he threads the inhabitants of Wahu, as they are subjugated. The inlelligence having been spread abroad that we intended to sail on the next day, we had a host of visitors, who brought us presents and wished us a safe voyage. The women swam the whole day round tlie verael, bidding a tender farewell to •Hheir friends. Kareimoku requested me, through Mr. Berkley, «o salute the fort on sailing, which I promised to do. £arly on the 14th of December, we demanded a pilot by firing asignaJ-gun; and he appeared immediately with some double icanoes. The anchors were heaved, the Rurick towed out, and when Kareimoku came on>board, I saluted with seven shots, •which pleased him so much that he embraced me repeatedly. The fort immediately returned my salute ; and, when this was done, the royal brig, Kahunianna, saluted us, which we like- wise returned. At eight o'clock we were out of port ; Kareimoku promised to pray to the gods, that the sun might be our guide by day, Mid -the moon by night, and left us with his attendants, who, on pushing off, gave us three clieers. I soon lost sight of the island, and, being instructed to spend the winter-months in the * Looking over Adams's Diary; I found the following notice t Brig Forester, March 34, 1815, on sea, upon (he coatit of California, latitude 33?45'N., l(M)|(itude S[3a« 3' E. ** By a strong wind from W.N.W. and rain, we saw this noorning, at six o'cI.ocK, at a !>hurt dibtance, n sliip, the confused stute of whose sails shewed that :>he wanted assistance. We immediately bent our course towards her, and recof;nized the distressed vessel to he a Japanese, which had lost both ^asC and helm. I was sent on.board liy the captain, and only found in the vessel three dyipg Japane'^e, the captain, and iwo sailors. We took these ^ofuirtunate people on>board our brig, who, after four months' nursing, entirely recovered. We learned from these people, that they had sailed from the har- bour of Osaco, (in Japan,) bound for another sea-pnrt,but were overtaken by a storm, in which they lost the helm and mast. Till that day their ship had been drifting about, a mire butt for the winds and waves, during seventeen oionths, and, of thirty-five men, only three remained^ all the others having die<^ *yith hijnger." — ^This note is remarkable as far as it proves that the cur- rent in these seas, north of the tropics, always keeps its direction from east to wear. 1 'iJ th sandal, : annaatly Y give bad I expected -nature of m, as ttiey I tbey kin. king, and ^ insurrec- rs nothing, Is; but he jd. e intended ID brought •men swam Farewell to p. Berkley, )t by firing me double :d out, and even shots, 'epeatedly. jsn this was :h we like> promised de by day, ants, who, ght of the iths in the Brig Forester, e 3a» 46' N., orning, at six •ails shewed tnwnrds her, ind loHt both found in the Ve cook these r«ing, emirciy from tlie har- overtnken by their ihip liad ing seventeen uthers having that the cur- i9li from east Kbtzebue's Vojfoge round the World. 1<>9 investigatioti oif the coral islands, for the purpose of making discoveries, I now steered in a direction that I might inspect the two small islands which were discovered by the frigate Oorn- wallis in 1807, on her sailing from the Sandwich Islands to Canton. I had reason to believe that their situation >Hras not correctly given, as Capt. Krusenstern sailed in the year 1804, when they had not then been discovered, over the spot where they are marked upon the chart. The quantity of sea-birds which flew 'round the Nadeshda when there, made it probable that there was some land near. After I had found them I in* tended to take my course to the Kutusoff and SuwaroflF Islands^ the inhabitants of which are in |X)ssession of large boats, which seenied again to indicate the vicinity ol other islands ; these t hoped to discover, and then to sail for the Carolines. Observations made during our stay on Wahu : — The middle of our daily mid-day observations gave for the latitude of out awohorage — 21'' H' &V N. 'JHie middle from moon-distances, taken several days iii succession, gave for the longi* tade of our anchorage — -167 Si 00 W. Declension of the needle 10 57 00 E. Dip of tiie needle ^^ 43 93 00 The middle of our observations in Wahu gave the time of high water in new and full moon, S hours, 55 minutes. The greatest difllerence in the water- stand amounted to six feet. The mean stand of the barometer was 'IQ inches, 80 lines. The mean stand of the thermometer was 76^.0 Fahrenheit. [ have yet to notice the situation of an island, said to have been lately dis« covered : lat. 88*' 15' N., long. 172' 30' W. 1 ought also to mention that, during our stay on Wahu, Manuja never left the ship without my permission, kept it from the first, and assisted us in purchasing any curiosity of tlie island ; if I wanted any thing, he immediately jumped into the sea, and, arriving on shore, my demand was immediately complied with. To get me a stock of wood he set to work a hundred islanders, who had to fell it, drag it upon the shore, and cut it small,— a labour which, in this hot climate, would have fallen very hard Upon my sailors. We made him several presents on our departure, and he felt himself peculiarly honoured in being allowed to be the bearer of the presents which I sent to Tamineamea. From the Sandwich Islands to Radack. — Dec. 17th, lat. 19' 44', lung. 1 60" 7'. From Wahu to this place we either bad calms or very slight winds firom S. E. , at the same time the strong current from S.W. carried us forty-five miles in three days to N.E. ; but now the latter has taken its direction S.W. On the evening of the 21st, we were in lat. 16** 65', long. 169" 16', consequently in the same parallel, and fifteen niiici 110 Kotzebue's Voyage round the World, from Cornwallis Islands. A sailor was constantly placed on the mast-head without seeing land, on the proximity of which we could not doubt, owing to the quantity of sea.birds which we saw. As soon as the sun had set, I turned the ship against the windy tacking all night, with few sails. ^ Oa the 22a, at day-break, I again took my course west. At eight o*clock we were in lat. 16* 6', long. 169* 21% and conse- quently on the spot where the islands are laid, without seeing any thing of them. The many sea-birds still kept my hope alive, but, when at noon our longitude exceeded that of the islands, I was obliged to give them up, the frigate Cornwallis having probably made an error in laying down the longitude. Our observed latitudo was 17^3', long. 110*' 1', and thus we had been driven by the current, in twenty-four hours, six miles N., and had sailed so close by the islands, if their latitude was correct, that we must have seen them, however low they might be. Besides I was confirmed, by the decreasing number of sea>birds, that I had passed these islands, and therefore ^ave up my search, steering S. W. to get in the latitude of the island St. Pedro, the longitude of which I wished to determine, if in fact iti existed. From the 2f>th to the 28th, we sailed 3^ from east to west, upon the parallel of the island of St. Pedro, without descrying it ; I therefore took a southern direction to reach parallel 10^, which I intended to follow to the west. Since we left the vici- nity of the Cornwallis Islands, we saw daily sea-birds, and some- times in such large flocks, that we judged there must necessa- rily be some undiscovered islands about here; but, with all our watchfulness, I was not fortunate enough to make any dis- covery. For the correctness of our longitude, I can vouch from our observations. On the SOth, the lat. was ^° 48', and the long. 187* 9'> I was anxious not to miss the Mulgrave Chain. The wind blew fresh from the north, and very high waves from N. by VV. The current had taken us since yesterday twenty-seven miles to the west; and the birds were more numerous than usual. On the 31st, Jat. 9° 49' 57% long. 188° 33' J the weather was gloomy, attended with rain ; the wind shitting from N. to N.N.E. and N.N.W. I began to think I was near some land, but looked out for it in vain. At three o'clock p.m. we were just fifteen miles norlh of our course-line of the last year, and had now sailed a second time through the spot where the Mulgraves are said to be, without having seen themt 1 now steered north towards Kutusoff Island.