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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. t a a 1 2 3 4 5 6 s .2 "E m C Ti 0} a. o ♦J CO CO a, CQ CO s c s .2 (- m 05 U Ti o CO a, CD r ''isia s CO S o C (2 ?»'■*»:■ .iT^i^-i „« tf"; 'i:.— .';*■■■'-. '■ ^,.««'...A'-'^*^' ' ■. ' » (;s^ t-^ , ».^* 5r^ f *i \ j.'H'Wt <,;■» I I CRUISE OF THE 'PANDORA.' FROM THL PIUVATE JOUENAL REIT BY ALLEN YOUNG, R.N.R., F.R.G.S., F.R.A.S., &c., COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION, 187(5, YG8 lokdon: printep ht william ci.owes and soks, stamford stukkt and charino cross. INTRODUCTION. This narrative lias been printed in order that there mny be an authentic record of the voyage of the R.Y.S. steam yacht * Pandora ' to the Arctic Seas, in 1S75. The objects of the voyage were to visit the western coast of Greenhmd, thence to proceed through JJuffin's Sea, Lan- caster Sound, and Barrow Strait, towards the magnetic pole, and, if practicable, to navigate througli the North-Wctst Passage to the Pacific Ocean in one season. As, in followiuir this route, the * Pandora' would pass King William's Island, it was proposed, if successful in reaching that locality, in the summer season, when the sriow was off the land, to make a search for further records and for the journals of the ships ' Erebus ' and ' Terror,' which were both lost in attempting the same voyage. As no possible advantage to this project could be gained by wintering, it was arranged that the groat loss of time and additional expense attending a ten months' purposeless detention in the Arctic Seas should be avoided, if possible, unless such a position could be attained as would render it advisable. In the event of the latter contingency, the * Pandora ' was fully equipped, and the crew were engaged to remain for a period of two years' absence from home. The ' Pandora ' was formerly a despatch gun-vessel, and was purchased from the Admiralty. She was built for speed, under sail or steam, or both combined, and fitted with engines of 80 horse-power. The ship was taken to the works of ]\Iessrs. Day and Summers, at Southampton, to be fortified and prepared with all the modern equipments of an Arctic exploring ship. She was rigged as a barquentine, and carried eight boats, including a steam cutter and three wliale-boats. a 2 i , FROV 1;^x. viuroj».iA, .-. >. IV INTRODUCTION. VVlu'ii the repairs uiul alterations were eoinpieteil, the 'Pandora' was removed to the doeks, and provisioned and stored lor ei<:;hteen months. The olHeers and erew were selecti.'d, and she anchored in the Southampton Water in .1 nne, to receive her gnnpowder, and to make linal i)repara- tions I'or her adventurous cruise. The ' Pandora ' carried the white ensij^n and burfjeo of the lioyal Yacht Squadron, and her complement of ollicers and men was thirtv-one all told, as follows : 1. C((j)t(iln. — Allen Young,' K.N.K. 2. LkiUcnaut. — F. Innes Lillingston,^ R.N. '6. „ (jeouoe Piuik,' U.N. 4. KOOLEMANS BeYNAN,* H.N.N. ' Captain Alien Young iMitcred tho raerclmnt service in 184G. Ho coni- Miandcd the 'Marlljornufj;]i,' East Indiaman, 1500 toiiH, twice round the world, IS.')!)-;")!; and tliu 'Adelaide,' titeani tronp-Mliip, 3000 tonis, during tlic Crimean war. 1 S^.l-fit). lie was sailing-master of the 'Fox ' (M'Clintock), ISoT-.T.*, and conimencod hiw lihityclling work hy laying out a depot between February l.'t and 3Iarcli 3, tiie tl "• "ctcr averaging —40 to —48; mercury frozen all the time. On his re o .started fur Fury IJeach to get tsomo stores left by Parry, absent froi ^v A\ IS to 28. He started again on \\n'\\ 7, tracing the Buutli and west shores of Prince of Wales' Land. After thirty-eight days he sent back the men and tent, owing to provisions ruiniing short, and went on for forty days with one man antl the dogs, sleeping each night in a hole in the stiow. He attempted to cross the M'Clintock Channel, and went about forty mi'.cs from tho land, the ice being frightfully heavy. Ho reached the ship on Juno 7, after an absence f)f seventy-eight days. He went again to explore Peel Sound from Jime ID to 28. Ho then connected Osborn's with Browne's furthest, and discovered 380 miles of new coast line. He became a Lieutenant of tho Naval Reserve, February 24, 1802. F.R.G.S. and F.RA.S. He conuuanded the ' Fox ' in the North Atlantic Telegra])h Kxpeilition in 1802, going to Faro3 Isles, Iceland, and Greenland, and the ' Quantung,' in the European Chinese Navy, 1802-04. He was Commissioner to the Maritime Congress at Naples in 1871. Autiior of an account of the voyage of the ' Fox,' in the first number of tho 'Cornhill Magazine;' republished in 1875 by Mr. Grillin, of Portsea. ' Lieutenant in the Royal Navy, on the retired list, September 7, 1871. 3 Navigating Sub-Lieutenant in tho Royal Navy, on the active list, July 27, 1870. ■• Lieutenant in the Royal Dutch Navy, and had served in tho Sumatra Squadron, and on shore in tho naval brigade at Achi'n. He is now engaged in editing a second edition of the ' Voyages of Barents to the North-East,' for the Hakluvt Soriotv. INTIlOUrCTlON. V r». HnrijciUi sv ^"fi-.W ^ •*4.Vi "^i 1 h / 4r ^^ ..''^ -, I -^ I I -4!— -I 1- — ^- dr -H— ir- ^J^-^i^ ^ ■ d , I . -L-^ -tr:r:lr--t t lAl.LEN YOUNG COMMANDER) FROM ENGLAND TO THE ARTIC AND BACK \ I I CRUISE OF THE VPANDOllA. CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE TO GREENLAND. On tho 25tli of Jiin(% evorythinnj being reported ready for sea, we slipped from the buoy off the Soutliampton Pier, and proceeded round to Portsmoutli. We had already received on board two bags of letters tor the * Alert ' and ' Discovery,' besides parcels, which had been forwarded in the hope of our being able to deliver them, or deposit them at the entrance of Smith Sound. On entering Portsmouth Harbour, a message was received from the Admiral to the effect that wo mii;ht go alongside the dockyard, and we accordingly moored by the Queen's Steps at 9 J'.m. I was much touched by the hearty sympathy which I received at Portsmouth. I had endeavoured, from the commencement, to keep our cruise quite unnoticed, and had carefully avoided all iii\d of the ancient Norse colonizers of Greenland. Near Arsuk was the old Norse church of yteinnaes. Umanak is the Capo Comfort of our old Elizabethan navigators. Sermilik means "having a glacier." 2 Or Ivigtot. 6 THE OLD ' FOX.' tilis season, caused by tlio mountain rivers, and the melting of the last remnants of tlio snow. Wlien inside the fiord, the wind sprunj,' up and freshened from tiie IS.E., wliich somewhat dehiyed us, and we did not arrive off Ivitut until 4 p.m., when, iiiiding that 1 could bo supplied with coal, and n(jt wishinj^; to let go my anchor in 30 fathoms, according to the custom here, I went iilong- side the barque 'Thor' by the })erniission of her ('iij)tain. She was lying alongside a ji'tty, or rather stage, rigged out from the shore, and was being loaded with kryolite ; as she was securely moored, we were enabled to wheel the coal across in barrows. We found Mr. Fritz, the IManager of the Kryolite Company, most obliging and courteous. IIo oft'ered us every assistance, and any supplies that we might require, besides i)ressing us to accept his private stock of pigs, which I declined ; but he insisted on sending me one small pig for the shi[)'s company, and a large hamper of the most delicious radishes, which he had grown in the open air. Nothing could exceed his kindness, and I wish here to record it, and to mention that anyone going to Ivitut is certain of a hearty welcome ami the utmost atten- tion from Mr, Fiitz. We found the *Fox,' my old ship, lying there, looking quite smart, and evidently kept in good rejiair. I went ou board with Toms to have a look at the old craft which had been our home for two and a-half years, and I felt an in- clination to linger there, and even some desire to exchange for the *I*andora,' although as yet the 'Pandora' has be- haved in all respects to my satisfaction. Immediately we were secured I gave leave to all hands, and notwithstanil'ug the myriads of mosquitoes, which ren- dered the shore intolerable, all the men went on excursions, their principal desire being apparently to exchange articles of European manufacture for anything of native workman- ■ 1 I -y f, A' ■ I '.<> ' l^\- H' i K I'M';". i. '.', V 41 I \ i 'n ►3 o .u p .1^ MMIMmMMMmMMHIMfHMNIIM a pig. V i' THE KRYOLITE MINE. / ship, much to the advantage of the natives. They also searched for a cat, as we had left without one, to which circumstance all our head winds were attributed. The result of their search was that we secured at least three cats and a pig. The mullemohke "Billy," which was caught off Farewell, and shorn of its wing, is kept as a pet on board. Ivitiit is situated ahout 16 miles up the fiord named Arsiik, after the lofty isUind of that name, which borders the left, or rather the nortliern side of the fiord, and is composed of granite, with overlying syenite. The granite continues for about 8 miles up the ficrd on both sides, when it disa[)pcars, and alternates with gneiss. This gneiss forms the sliore on both sides of the fiord for from 7 to 8 miles up to the spot named Ivitut by the natives, where the kryolite ^ is found. The name Ivitut (from Jw7j, grass) was given to this place by the natives on account of its fertility. It was first frequented by them for the purpose of fishing and drying the Arctic salmon, but was deserted on account of the increasing float- ing ice. We owe the discovery of kryolite to a peculiar circumstance. Tlie Greenlanders employed the water-worn fragments of this mineral as weights for their fishing lines, and in this shape the first specimens were sent by the missionaries to Copenhagen as ethnograpliieal curiosities. The kryolite is found near the shore, resting immediately upon the gneiss. The purest is of a snow-white colour, without any intermixture of foreign substances. The grayish-white variety which lies on the surface is considered the second quality of commerce,, It very much resembles ice which has been curved and grooved by the action of • the snn's rays. Tlie kryolite mines are now regularly worked by a company in Copenhagen, wliieh employs a * Kryolite, or Cryolite, is a viry rare mineral found only in the ^niciss of West Greenland. It is the doul)le hydroilimto of soda and alunn'mi. Tlie name is from Kpvos, hoar frost, and \i0os, stouc. It iiuAU like ice iu the flume of a candle, lienco the name. ■MPMtMMWM 8 THE KRYOLITE MINE. manager to superintend the works, and sufficient men are sent out annually to load the ships, which generally obtain a freight — 21. per ton — to England or Philadeli)hia. These workmen are relieved at fixed periods. They do not bring any of their famines witli them, and generally contract to remain three years, the mines being worked both winter and summer; a smaller mine, more free from snow, being usutdly worked throughout the autumnal and winter montiis. The kryolite is used for a variety of purposes, but principally for making soda, and also in the United States for preparing aluminium.^ At the time of our visit, the ships 'Thor,' of Hamburg, and the ' Alibi,' of Peterhead, were both loading a cargo, and the ' Traveller,' of the latter place, which we had just towed in, was regularly employed in carrying kryolite to Copen- hagen. The ' Fox,' so celebrated in Arctic history, is now in the employ of the company, and is used for bringing out supplies and reliefs of workmen to the colony. The kryolite is all brought from the mine (which is, perhaps, 200 yards from the sea) to the beach, close to the shipping stage, and is stacked in large, square heaps, as being the most con- venient for measuring it both for shipment and for the royalty to be paid to the lioyal Danish Greenland Com- pany. I was so occupied on board that I had no time to make more than a very short visit to the mine. I then walked up the rising ground, being a+^mcted by a large wooden cross marking the burying ground of the little colony. It was a well chosen spot, where vegetation flourished, and away from the works and habitations, commanding a lovely view of the fiord and surrounding mountains. The cross ' For accounts of the kryolite niiiie, see a paper ol' Sir Charles Gcisccke', in the ' Edinburgh riiihisophieal Journiil,' vi. p. 141 ; and a ])ap('r by J. W. Tnyler, Esq., hi the 'Quarterly Journal of the (Jechigieal Society,' xii. p. 1 10. ''"uesc papers have been reprinted iu the ' Arctie Manual,' pp. iJ41 and 344. THE KRYOLITE MINE. 9 bore the beautiful and appropriate inscription taken from Psalm cxxxix., 7-10 : " Whither shall I go from Thy spirit ? or whither Shall I fly from Thy presence? If I ascend up into heaven, Th(m art there : if I Make my Ijtd in hell, behold, Thou art there. If I take tlie wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermo&t parts of the sea ; Even there shalt Thy hand lead me, and Thy right hand shall hold me." It was with a deep feeh'nf^ of sadness that I noticed several smaller crosses, marking the last-resting place of the poor colonists who had left their native country to die in this desolate place; and, with an earnest reflection on the above sacred words, I returned on board the ship to obtain a few hours' rest previous to sailing on the follow- ing morning. i'i ' W 10 STREAMS OF ICE. CHxVrTER III. NAVIGATION ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND. Having received 28 tons of coal, I started at 3 a.m., and steamed slowly out of the fiord. A fog which set iti soon afterwards made me very anxious, as tlie water is too deep to anchor. I had no pilot, and had never been here before, and at one moment I tlionght of returning to the anchorage at Ivitut, as the only place I could make, but fortunately, on rounding the western extremity of the Island of Arsuk, the fog partially cleared, and we found a fresh S.E. (true) wind blowing out of the fiord, to which we immediately made sail, and passed out to sea without further difficulty. We soon fell in with streams of ice, which were apparently being driven along the coast from the south, and out of the great bavs about Juliansljaab.^ The wind also increased, and we ran at some speed under reefed topsails to the northward, avoiding the ice as much as possible, but sometimes receiving a smart blow. Our artist took some hydrogrnphie sketches of the coast, and of the entrance to Arsuk Fiord, which if published will be of some service to future navigators of this fiord, the entrance of which is becoming of some importance, and is most difficult to make from the sea without a know- lodge of the a])pearance of the land. We continued running with a fair wind all the afternoon, though the ice compelled us to deviate greatly from a straight course, and by niglit it came on thick with rain, and so dark that the floes and floe- ' The southoriiiiiost Danish Grconlaiul coluny (in GO^ 43' N.), but not the southcnimost atttlenicnt. Further south there are the Meruviau mibtiioua of Lichteuau ami Fredrikoilal, close to Ca^je Farewell. NAVIGATION ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND. 11 pieces could only be avoided with great difficulty. I was up all night, and hoped for better weather next morning (August 1), but the wind now increased to a fresh gale Irom the southward (true), and the ice became very close in some of the streams. We continued running: through streams along the coast, as to seaward the pack seemed much closer. At 7 A.M. I dose-reeled, in the event of our having to round to, but we succeeded in getting into clear water about noon. The barometer had fallen considerably, and ] fully expected a heavy gule, especially as the rain began to come down in torrents, and the weather to tliicken. In the forenoon we had to haul out of a heavy jam of ice pressed upon a long reef of islands and rocks which extended above our bows, among which the laiger i)ieces had grounded, and had brought u}) the floe, forming a lee sliore of the wildest description. Having cleared the western extremity of this danger, we again bore away, and at noon j)cissed close to the 'Vaidoe Island,' just ofi' the entrance to the colony of Frederickshaab. But the thick weather prevented our seeing more than the outlying isles and rocks, wliich we passed at one mile distant. In the afternoon we again passed through a very heavy stream of ice, and on ap- proaching the outer edge, I heard the sea breaking violently amongst the floes. I took this as an indication that we were getting clear, and to the northern limit of the Spitzbergen drift ice. Shortly afterwards in getting into more water, we suddenly experienced a heavy swell, and I then knew that we need not expect much more of this troublesome and dan- gerous enemy. In the evening we were approaching the glacier which extends down to the sea north of the Tallart liank, and about 28 miles north of Frederickshaab. It is the most conspicuous mark upon the coast of Greenland, and cannot be mistaken. Our artist took a view of it. I remember that when we [tushed through the Spitzbergen ice in the 12 THE TORSKE BANK. ■t.'-. ' Fox,' the first landfall we made was this glacier, which im- mediately directed us to the position of Frcderickshaab. In sailing through ice, especially if very close, it is dillicult to keep the reckonintr, and as such navigation is also often accompanied by thick weather, it is necessary, if possible, to have a sure landmark. The night proved better than I expected. The wind moderated, but the rain continued in torrents, and we passed through a quantity of drift masses of ice, which I su])pose(l had been hung up by borgs grounded off the Tallart Bank and the glacier. But it was too dark to see anything, and we continued through the gloom with a good look out, the ship rolling with her heavy deck-load, and everything drip- ping with rain and fog. (Aug. 2.) The morning broke, thick with rain, but to my great relief no ice was passed. The wind fell off to nearly a calm, and as I fancied we must be near or over the southern- most Torske Bank, I sounded, and found 25 fathoms. Wo immediately stopped, and put over some fishing-lines, but without success, as a light wind, with a current to the north prevented us from keeping our lines on the bottom. The only things brought up were some conglomerate composed of ascidiic inside horny cases, and outside the cases bivalve molluscs, and several common log worms. We steamed to the northward, and during the afternoon T observed many terns,^ kittiwakics,^ and a few looms. ^ The surface of the water was frequently rippled as if by a strong current ; many pieces of drift ice were also passed, from all which I hoped we were setting to the northward. We passed one large iceberg, '■^pareutly aground, about 2 p.m. ^ The ' lie tern (Stermr Arctici) is a Lcautifiil little sea swallow with red legs and . ■■. The Eskimo name is Tmerkotcilah. ■ The ki; '. i ■ - ako is a f^raceful Arctic gull (liissa tridactijla, or Larun tridactylus ol" Fal)ricitis). The Eskimo name is Tattcrak. ' liruuuick's guillemot {AIca . in t!.") ' 20' X. I HMM 14 PASS KANQEK — nOLSTEINBORO. suddenly fdiiiul ourselves among a labyrinth of reefs and rocks not marked in the chart, which I named Pandora Reefs, and on one of which we touched slightly. I then hauled out to W.N.W. (true), the wind being still northward, and cleared all the dangers. The splendid scenery stood like a panorama before us, and as we passed Surk-striiin Fiord our artist made a sketch of this beautiful arm of the sea, which penetrates direct inland 30 or 40 miles, having precipitous mountains on each side 4000 to 5000 feet high, and reaching to the inland ice, which we could jjlainly see at the head, 1 then thought of standing ol'f to tiie Torsko Bank to catch some cod-fish, and was proceeding N.N.W., under very easy steam and fore and aft canvas, when on stopping to sound we observed some natives coming oif in their kayaks. They had had a long pull, as we were now at least 10 miles from the land ; and although we had been standing off at 5 miles an hour, they had never given up the chase, and now overtook us. They brought salmon, fresh and smoked, and a few eggs, and all that the poor fellows asked in exchange for eighteen of these fine fish, was a few biscuits and a little tobacco. They had })ulled so hard, that they were quite wet through with the sea, so we hoisted them all in, gave them a good warming in the engine-room, and a glass of grog, and they took their leave quite happy and contented. They belonged to Old Sukkertoppen, but were staying for the present at a place called Kangek,^ just north of Surk-stroni Fiord, catching salmon and reindeer. (Aug. 5.) I had limited the engineers to 3 cwt. of coal per hour, and we could n(jt therefore steai>^ more than 4 knots. The wind was west (true) alternating with calms until 4 a.m., when a breeze sprung up from the southward, and we set all canvas, and at 8 a.m. stopped the engines. We passed the ' Katigck means a cape or headland. The name fiociucntly occurs along the coast of Greunland. PASI-ING RIFKOL. 15 Knight Islands off the colony of Ilolsteinborg,' and at noon were in lat. 67° 11' N. lon-^. 5r 2G' W., stoorin<,^ along the land at a distance of 12 to 14 miles, our artist h ing busy all (lay making hydrographic sketches of the coast at the most interesting points. At p.m. we sounded in 18 I'athoms, and found shells, sand, and particles of granite. (Aug. 0.) I was on deck during the wliole night of the 5th, as we were passing close to Hif kol, the water being very shallow, and the islands very low. In the morning we had passed lliflcol, and had gone inside the rocks laid down in the chart. The coast here was quite changed in appearance, and the transition from the high snow-capped mountains to a low, irregular tract quite devoid of snow was very remark- able. I had intended on the previous evening to stop at the Kif kol Bank to try to catch some hallibut and cod, and we sounded in 17 fathoms, finding sand, shells, and small stones from the granitic rocks, but a light breeze sprang up, and being so anxious to get onward, I gave up the attempt. ' At this time II.M.S. 'Valorous' was in Holsteinborg linrbonr umlori^oin"- rt'puirs, aUvr liuving run upon a rtef of rocks not marked on the chart, on July 27. The ' Valoroua ' lett Hulatuiuborg on Auyust 8. T 16 AnUIVAL AT QOnnAVN, CIIArTER IV. (.ODIIAVN AXD THE WAI(^\T. The Isliiiul of Disco had boon in si<,dit sinoo 7 a.m., at a (listaiico of nearly 70 nulos. Wo oontinuod to tho N.N.E., passing to windward of tiio Wluilofish Islands and tho s(ditary islet west of the Hundo Islands, npon which we observed thousands of birds, apparently roosting. The bay of Disco, and the grand cliffs and snow-covered table-hmd of the island to the northward, wore no\i' s{)read out before us, and to the eastwar"' '^ l(i ■\u "I '■' The Ghurdh ai Godhavn. .1 I'.'.V V . I !,,>-■ 11" 1 . i . 1 1 * I li.' , f"l;\\ V [ U i.i! I'*"'l 0!M- 'M' ^■ t, ,1 f. .il' \.il '.1 i>«M i ,^-C^*% "-•!••„., . .a- ■» ..^^U dogs. Th( having pro ing thence and dredg] letters for there was in Godha^ vessel ba another v letters, ai general I for the \ out for V Smith, t undertal Markha: (Aug. the sout rendere' bergs w The more e taken. I notic appear away e ing sa the re during We whicl] Waig blew the g DISCO BAY. 17 (logs. Tlie ' Valorous ' had left Godliavn at the same timo, having proceeded to the coal mine in the Waigat, and intend- ing thence to go southward to make observations in sounding and dredging in Davis Strait. I consequently addressed all letters for that ship to the Secretary of the Admiralty, as there was now no chance of our meeting her. We anchored in Godhavn, but found no other ship there, the Company's vessel having left for home the previous evening ; but, as another was expected in about a fortnight, we wrote up our letters, and having filled up some water and given the crew general leave and a dance on shore, we departed at midnight for the Waigat. There I expected to find coal already (hig out for us by the natives under the direction of Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector of North Greenland, who had kindly undertaken this work for me at the request of Mr. Clements Markham. (Aug. 8.) On August 8 we were steaming slowly along the south shore of Disco, in charmingly mild weather, which rendered a change of clothing necessary. Thousands of ice- bergs were around us. The fisheries of Disco appear to be falling off more and more every year, and recently but few whales have been taken. The seals, moreover, are much scarcer than formerly. I noticed no seal meat or fresh skins, and, in fact, the natives appear to be quite at a standstill, except the few who were away at the large fiord at the west side of the island, catch- ing salmon. Perhaps this apparent idleness may have been the result of their having received a good sum of money during the long stay of the three Government ships. We steamed leisurely along towards the coaling station, which is on the Disco shore, about 30 miles inside the Waigat. As we opened the straits, a strong north wind blew against us, bringing up so dense a fog that it was with the greatest difficulty we could clear the numerous icebergs. 111 l\ J 18 BAD WEATHER IN THE WAIGAT. Tlio season seemed an exceptional one, aa from former expe- ricnf!e I did not expect to meet with anytliiuf^ like the number of bcrjj^s wliieli almost choked up tlie straits, ren- dering the navij^iition very intricate. At midniglit we were beset hy very thick weather, not being able to see much beyond the jib-boom, and, the water being too deep to hokl out any hope of anclioring, we were compelled to proceed, under steam, at a very slow rate until I decided to moor to a promising looking pit'ce, which we went nearly stem on to. It was a berg which had turned over, and was consequently very smooth and slippery. After several attempts it was secured with two large ice-anchors, and I hoped to be able to ride by it until the gale decreased or the fog cleared. We sounded in 58 fathoms, and supposed we were about a mile from the Pisco shore (the mountain on the point at the entrance to the Waigat bearing west (true), and that the berg was aground ; but it afterwards floated with the flood-tide and turned over, and began drifting with us upon a group of other bergs. (Aug. 9.) I was disturbed at 3 a.m. by the noise of the falling over of the berg, and the officer of the watch rushing down to tell me that it had capsized, taking our anchors a long way under water. I still held on until the rolling of the berg released the anchors, when we were once more compelled to steam off into the fog. During the forenoon the sun appeared and the wind decreased, enabling us to obtain the latitude by means of one of Captain George's artificial hori- zons on deck. We found that we were a little to the north- ward of Ujarasusuk^, the point at which I wished to commu- nicate with the natives, and to present a letter to the Factor with reference to the coaling of the ship. Ujarasusuk is not ■ From Ujarnk, a stone. Ujnras-usuk consists of two wooden bouses aod about twenty Eskimo huts. It is about 20 miles from the coal mine of Kudliset, on tlio Disco side, close to the shore, on an abrupt rocky point. It may be found by the bay between Atanekerdluk and Sakkak, on the Noursoak « THE SETTLEMENT OF UJAnASUSUK. 10 I marked on the chart. It lies on the Disco shore, about half- way between the entrance to the straits and the coal deposits at Kudliset. After a little delay we saw two houses, but all our efforts with the stenm-whistle failed to produce any effect U})on the occupants, who were probably taking a good Ibre- iioon's sleep, being compelled by the dense fog to remain inactive. On a closer approach, however, the good i)eople of Ujarasusuk were aroused by the whistle; dogs, men, and women were rushing about, and we were soon boarded by a kayaker, who informed me that Mr. Jansen, the governor, would be on shore to receive me. So I landed, and found that we were on an outlying station of the llitenbenk dis- trict, containing about a hundred [)eople, presided over by Governor Jansen. On landing, a letter from Mr. Clements Markham was handed to me. It stated that the ' Valorous '' had lately been at the Kudliset mines, and had in five days taken in 105 tons. IMarkham also informed me that the coals were cleared for us, and the Governor said that I should meet a sloop which was coming from the mines, and that I might take from her sixteen men and five women to assist in loading the ' Pandora. ' At Ujarasusuk there were a great number of splendid dogs, of which I purchased four, giving six rixdollars for each, that price including the har- ness, and some shark's flesh for food. Proceeding to Kudliset, we met the sloop, took in the men and women, and arrived at the mines at 7 p.m., anchor- ing in 7 fathoms, and about a quarter of a mile from the beach. We then gave the Eskimos a good supper all round peninsula, being exactly open. On Issungoak Point there are two peaks, tlio northern very sharp and remarkable, resembling a cairn, and a good mark for finding Ujarasusuk, as it is 4 miles from Issungoak Point. Narsak was not seen in passing, and there appears to be no habitation between Ujarasusuk and Kudliset. ' The ' Valorous ' was at anchor oflF the Kulbrud, or coal mine of Kudliset, in the Waigat, from the 17th to the 21st of July. In eighty-eight hours the men got on board 105 tons of coal. 2 '•^1. 20 COALING IN THE WAIQAT. and turned in, the men sleeping in tlie sqnnrcsail on deck, and the females, threo of whom were remnrkahly pretty girls, being stowed awuy in the chart-room, nnder the giiiirdiansliip of an old lady, who was evidently the strietest of ehaperonea, and would not allow one of them to be (Mit of her sight for a moment. (Aug. 10.) The next morning was very clear and calm. All hands wore sent on shore at 5 a.m., and by dint of real good work we succeeded in getting on board about 40 tons* by 7 P.M. Wo then got ready for sea, intending to start as soon as the crew had taken a few hours' rest, they being much fatigued with the day's work. I found tho steam cutter of the greatest assistance in towing the boats to and from our ship. At nine we were aroused by a berg coming athwart hawse, but by veering cable wo succeeded in clearing our bows of it. I then settled with the Eskimos who had helped us, iind having packed up my letters for England, I sent all the natives away to an empty house about a mile distant. ' Tho coal lies imbedded in sandstone underlying tho trap formation and close down to tlie sea-level, in seams of from 1 to 7 feet in thickness. Tho coal is easily excavated und thrown on tlie beacii, nnd thence taken to the boats. In tlie spring, when tlio ice foot exists, it forms a natural wharf, and a ship or lighter might go almost alongside and take the coal direct on boaid. An analysis of this i.oal was made by Professor Fyte, of King's College, Aberdeen, as follows : Specific Gravity, 1'3848. Volatile matter 50-6 Coke, consisting of ash 9 • 84 Carbon 39-56 100-00 PASSING HANDEUSONS HOPE. 21 CHAPTER V. THE PASSAGE THROUGH MELVILLE BAY. (Aug. 11.) Klstng at four o'clock, I took a last look at the scone. It rcmiutlod me forcibly of my former visit in the * Fox,' wliich seemed but yesterday, even to the mountain stream which still poured over the summit of the highest ridge, falling in a perpendicular silver line for many hun- dreds of feet. We were a week later tliis time, and the season was getting on so fast, that it was witli a feeling of relief that I ordered the anchor to be weighed. I felt satis- fied h the success of our cruise thus far, and did not anti- ^ ..,e another detention.^ By the afternoon we had sailed and steamed as far as Hare Island, when the wind suddenly shifted to the northward, and we furled all sails, and continued throughout the night with very easy st(>am, making slow progress. Arriving the next day (August 12) under Svarte Huk, we made a tack off from within a quarter of a miie of the beach, experiencing a strong north- ward set as we rounded this extraordinary cape. In the evening we could see Sanderson's Hope, and passed close outside the islands, in fine weather and with light north winds. ' On August 11 the latitude was 70° 4' 54" N. ; longitude, 52° 59' 30" W. ; var. 69" 4'. Tliis places the coast on the Disco Island side of the Waigat farther to the N.E., and altogether different from the Admiralty charts. The coal mine may easily bo found if the opposite coast is in sight, even when Disco is enveloped in fog, by observing a very sharp needle peak called Manik, which bears N. 52° E. (true) from the mine. Behind the mine two mountains rise to about 3000 feet, with a remarkable stream of water flowing over the highest ridge. The ' Valorous ' made the latitude of a position at the coal cliff near where her men were working 70° 3' 24" N. 22 UPETvNIVTK. (Aug. 13.) The morning of the 13th of August was ushered in with light south winds, and I decided to stop off Upernivik to send my last letters home, so •'je steered in between the two easternmost of the Woman's Islands, and entered Uper- nivik Bay, rounding to close off the settlement.^ The Governor came on board, and informed us that the * Aiert ' and * Discovery ' had left on the 22nd July, and chat he con- sidered it to be a very favourable season for them, although on the day they sailed there was a good deal of ice outside the Woman's Islands and to the northward, which obliged them to steer out west. Having sent a present of a satin cushion to our old friend Sophia, who is now the wife of tlie Governor, and purchased a few sealskin clothes and two more dogs, we bore away, the weather threatening from the S.VV. and a heavy rain falling, and passed out between the Talbot Reef and the nearest islands, steering away to N.N.W., and continuing through the night under canvas. (Aug. 14.) At 7 A.M. we could just distinguish tlie Horse Head, and flocks of looms continually crossed, flying to the westward, from wi.ich I inferred that the middle ice was not far out in that direction. We saw numbers of single birds, and hen birds with single young ones, feeding in the water ; but the flight of the strong birds was seaward, without rest- ing near the ship. In the afternoon we passed through a * In fipproachinj;: Upernivik two rocks were observed just above water, San- derson's Hope bearing about E.S.E. ('"",'/.) from the westernmost rock, wbich was about 4 miles to the south of the south Woman's Island. Tlie weather was too thick to allow of any augles being taken. The rocks or reefs are laid down on the plans in the ' PandoraV ' hydrograjiliic book kept for that purpose. In going into Upernivik the two islands off the IIopo were left on the star- board hand, and a course was shaped between them and tiie next one to the northward. In leaving Upernivik the ' Pandora ' passed to the eastward of the Talbot Tleef, wh 'h was clearly visible, and then a course was shaped to the N.W. The reef lai J down off the south end of the small island on which the colony of Upernivik is situated, is visible by the break of the cea if a good I'jok-out is kei)t. THE PASSAGE THROUGH MELVTLLE BAY. 23 long chain of huge icebergs, lying north and south as far as tlie eye could reach, and, the weather clearing oh, we found ourselves close to tlie outermost of the Duck Islands. We got good observations, {)lacing them in lat. 73^ 30' N., long. 573 47' \y. There were four islands visible, lying E.N.E and W.S.W. 8uow fell until midnight. We were now deserted by every living thing. (Aug. 15.) At 9 A.M. there was a beautiful break in the sky. The magnificent glacier was also before us, and Capes Seddon, Lewis, and Walker in sight. A few huge icebergs were scattered here and there, but we saw no iloe- ice. Being quite out of fresh water, we sent away a boat to one of the bergs for some loose pieces of ice. The afternoon was glorious. There was a clear, brilliant sky, and a tem- perature of 35°. The fog was gone, and only one or two bergs were to be seen. We had also a constant swell from the N.W. and W.N. vV^, and could hardly believe that we were in the dreaded ^felville Bay. It was more like passing a fine autumnal night on the Atlantic. Near this point, on August 30, 1857, the * Fox ' was hampered u ith the ice, ond finally beset altogether for a winter's drift with the pack. We reminded ourselves that it would not be wise to *' Halloo until out of the wood." There was, however, no prospect of meeting the middle pack ice, and we steered a direct course for Cape Yc rk. To my astonishment, the small quantity of ice we met was completely deserted, and we only saw an occasional fulmar, no looms, seals, or any living thing; and th3 contrast between the brilliant sun and iceless sea, with the absence of all life, was most wonderful. We could not have been far from the middle pack, as whenever the Haws of wind came from W.S.W. or 8.W. the air was raw and cold, and fog with light snow, or rather frozen particles of m"st, came on. Our latitude at noon was 74° 46' N., the longitude being 60° 9' W. We continued slowly through the night, with light li J ;| J Ia ■ i, 24 OFF CAPE YORK. »'f' S.W. winds, no ice being in sight except a few bergs. Tlie barometer was 29 . 65 ; temperature, 30° to 35° Fahr. We now had occasional calms, and used our steam, going as slowly as possible to save fuel. The ship was so completely- covered with long grass as to be rendered almost motionless unless in a fresh breeze, and the low temperature of the water appeared not to have the slightest effect upon it. This was a serious matter, our progress being so retarded that I feared we should not go any great distance in this season. At noon the remarkable peaked mountain to the east of Cape Melville was in sight above the mist which hung to the northward. We were now passing through another chain of grounded icebergs, and I was forcibly reminded of the time when, beset at this season of the year in the * Fox,' we drifted past this very place, and expected to be driven against icebergs in the same positions as those now before us. Could they be the same ? To me it is doubtful, al- though the same bergs apparently have been seen by former navigators year after year. At five o'clock our quietude was temporarily broken into by an alarm in the ship. All hands on deck, for Joe had seen a bear swimming across our bows, and had run down for his rifle. A boat was lowered, and Lillingston and myself went away, and returned with a young she-bear about five feet long. Poor thing, she made a gallant swim for it, and it was with difficulty that we overtook hti in the boat. At eight o'clock we arrived near the land in the neighbour- hood of Cape York,^ where we found quantities of smashed-up ice, enormous bergs, and small pieces. It looked as if there liad been a heavy gale ; but there was too much fog to see any distance towards the shore, which also seemed full of ice. Out to the W. and S.W. the sea was perfectly clear. ' Named by Sir John Ross after the Duke of York, on August 16, 1818, His Royal Highuess's birthday. LOW TEMPERATURE. 25 By midnight we had to stop steaming owing to a thick fog, and being beset with small and thin floes apparently of this season's formation. The temperature fell to 28'', and the ice crystals could be seen rapidly forming between the pieces of ice. Our rigging was covered with a white coating of frost. (August 17.) I had hoped that the low temperature in passing through the ice would have killed the weed on the ship's bottom, but was disappointed on the following morn- ing to find it as flourishing as ever. ! i5 n f 26 THE GARY ISLANDS. I ! CHAPTER VI. THE GARY ISLANDS. We were now about 8 miles south of Cape Yorlc, and fell in with streams of ice, composed of old floes, and new ice and bergs, extending out from the land towards the S.W. for 10 or 15 miles. After passing the ice, we proceeded towards the Gary Islands, our artist taking sketches of the Beverley cliffs and the Petowak glacier. I forgot to mention that I had sent away a boat the day before, with a small party to shoot rotches,^ of which thousands were feeding among the new ice-floes. The natives come down to Cape York at this season to catch rotches in nets for their winter stock.^ We could not, however, without serious delay, get close in to the land, to see if any natives were there, so I now steered for the Cary Isilands, where I expected to find despatches from the ' Alert ' and ' Discovery.' We had a fine calm night, with a light southerly air occasionally. We passed Wolstenholmo Inland, and at 8 a.m. sighted the south-eastern of the Cary Islands in the distance. (August 18.) Towards noon we were drawing near and rising the N.W. • The Alot alio, or little auk, cal'ecl ahpaUiarsuk by the Eskimo. - We (lid not, in pas(-ing along the face of the Petowak glacier experience the .strong current spoken of by Inglcfield, but in the evening wo fiuiciod wo could detect a sliglit uortlierly stream, winch I attributed to the flood tide. Wo had a constant swell, almost as if in the Atlantic. It came from N.W. and S.W. (true), and wo were even obliged to hook back the cabin doors, which one would imagine a very unusual thing in these seas in fine weather. It must indicate a large expanse of water. Tlie barometer fluctuated but little, Ixitwecn 29.05 and 29.80; temperature about 25° to 30° Fahr ; surface of sea, 34^ to 36 ^ THE CART ISLANDS. 27 Isle of the group, making, however, but slow progress, as I limited the engineers to the Waigat coal, much to their discomfiture. The wind springing up from the northward (true) and freshening to a strong breeze, we beat up to the north-west island, and lay-to about 2 miles or rather less to W.S.W., having to avoid a sunken rock lying about three-quarters of a mile west (true) of the S.W. island, off the north extreme. We also observed a reef above water, with rocks extending a cable length from each end, lying a good mile west {inie) from the middle of the N.W. island. I took the first whale-boat, and with some provisions and the two casks of letters for the ' Alert ' and ' Discovery,' left the ship and sailed towards a promising bay at tlie mouth of a considerable river or valley on the west side of the island, rnd we arrived shortly on the beach, and landed without much difficulty. I sent the boat round to another little cove about a quarter of a mile to the north-westward for safety. Lieu- tenant Lillingston, Lieutenant Beynan, and Mr. McGaban accompanied me. We immediately ascended towards a cairn on the summit, and after some tough travelling, and crossing a small glacier, we came to almost level ground, where we found two large cairns. Most anxiously we examined the ground with pick and shovel all round the cairn, but failed to find the slightest trace left by either the ' Alert ' or the 'Discovery,' nor were there any signs of the spot having been recently visited. The result of our search merely proved that the large cairn was erected on the 17th of July, 1867, by the men of the steam whaler ' Intrepid,' Cap- tain David Souter, a record stating that " other whale ships " were in sight at the time. Little water to the N.W., ** weather excellent, and all well. All the ships are clean. !ti II 'J ll iJ ^1 I 28 CONTENTS OF CAIRNS " The finder will please deposit when found. Deposited in ** the north side of the other cairn is a bottle of rum and " some tobacco." ■ (Signed) " Captain David Souter. " Geo. a. Craig, Surgeon. "Captain J. B. Walker, S.S. 'Alexander.* ("Van Waterschovelt, Surgeon") Further on in the same paper : "Visited on the 27th June, 1869, by Captain Walker, S.S. ' Alexander,' Captain Bruce, S.S. * Esquimaux.' Find the liquor in good order, and very palatable. No water to be seen from the top of the island this day. All clean excepting the ' Diana,' who secured one fish in the early part of the season. All well. " J. B. Walker. "Chas. Yule. " Egbert ^l. G. Anderson, " Surgeon S.S. 'Alexander.' " Also signed, Geo. F. Davidson, S.S. ' Erih.' " Captain Jones sitting fatigued in the distance. "James Dewars, Surgeon S.S. 'Esquimaux' " Peter Thompson, Second Mate ' Esquimaux.' " The 'Alexander, ' Esquimaux,' * Erik,' and ' Camperdown,' all of Dundee, fast to the ice. "Au revoir!" I then examined every elevation of the island, and seeing a cairn on a small knoll at the extreme N.W., distant about 3 miles, I sent Lieutenant Beynan, with three men, to examine it; to signal to me if any record was discovered, and not to open anything themselves. After an absence of ON THE GARY ISLANDS. 29 an hour and a half, they returned, having found nothing beyond an old record tin which had been previously opened, and was almost destroyed by rust. On it could be deciphered, in painted white letters, the following : " Resolut . . and ASSISTA . . ." The cairn had also been half pulled down, and a wooden stuff which had been erected was broken in two. Our search merely showed that the islands had been visited by whale ships in 1867 and 1869, and that the N.W. extremity of the N.W. island had been visited by the * Eesolute ' and ' Assistance ' in 1851, when under the com- mand of Captain Austin.^ I need scarcely express m.v ' The Gary (not Carey) Islands were discovered by William Baffin on the 8th of July, 101 C, and he named them after one of his patrons, Sir Henry Ciiry, of the family of Lord Hunsdon. Sir John Ross sighted them on the 20th of August, 1818. The 'Assistance' and 'Resolute,' on their return voyage, after a heavy gale of wind, siglited the Gary Islands on the 21st of August, 1851, and a cairn was observed on one of the most conspicuous heights of tlie N.W. island. A boat was sent to examine it, in charge of Mr. Clements Markham, then a midshipman in H.M.S. 'Assistance,' and it was found to consist of a pile of stones, with an upright piece of spruce deal 5 feet long and 5 inches broad. The letters I — I M — R D, witli the date 1S27 were cut on one side, and on the other T M — D K, nearly obliterated. Fourteen whalers were to the northward of the Gary Islands in 1827, and most probably one of them left this cairn. The cairn was built up higher, and a record was deposited in the tin case discovered by the ' Pandora ' in August, 1875. The Gary Islands are in 76^ 45' N., and 72° 50' W. Five of them are from a mile tind a half to two miles in diameter, three smaller, besides detached rocks. The formation is gneiss, rising to a height of 400 feet above the sea, and there is a rich growth of Cochldu-ia GrccnlanJica, and other Arctic plants. The cliffs are breeding places for looms, dovekeys, and rotehes, of which the ofBcers of the ' Assistance ' shot 900 during August 22. Mr. Markliam also found ancient remains of Eskimos, consisting of stone huts, caches, graves, and a stone fox-trap. (See an account of the Gary Islands at p. 335 of the ' Aurora Borealis,' the Arctic newspaper issued on board H.M.S. 'Assistance' in 1850-51, and published by Golburn and Co. in 1852.) Great care ought to be taken in approaching the N.W. or largest of the Gary Islands, as several sunken rocks lie to the westward (true) of it, and the current of the tide runs strong in the Hood to tlie northward, rendering it 30 LETTERS DEPOSITED CN h < k\ Ui m disappointment on not finding any letter or news from the Government Expedition, as Captain Nares had written to me from Godhavn, stating liis determination to leave de- spatches at the N.W. of the Gary Islands, and I had hoped to take home some information as to their progress. I had gone nearly 200 miles out of my way, and consumed 10 tons of coal in my endeavours to reach this point, and to carry out my promise to deliver the letters from England here. Having carefully examined all round, and failing to find any other cairn, I wrote a letter to Captain Nares, or the Commanding Officer H.M.S. 'Alert' or ' Discovery,' stating that the letters contained in two water tight casks would be found on a knoll above the beacli, close to the mouth of the wide river or valley on the west side of the island, and bearing about S.W. from the cairn on the summit. Jt was now blowing hard from the northward, and was bitterly cold ; we had been six hours on the island, so I hastily packed up and descended to the shore, and having carried the casks to the top of the knoll, about 70 to 80 feet above the sea, we deposited them, built a cairn to indicate their position, and tied a comforter to a staff made of one of the boat's stretchers. The casks are well above all chance of the sea ever coming over tliem, and can easily be found by the directions given in my notice on the summit of the island. It was now past midnight, and as we could do no more for our fellow-voyagers, we re-embarked for the ship. (Ar.g. 19). I rapidly turned over in my mind the nature of our situation. Had I had news from Captain Nares stating that he had gone on positively, I would have decided to necessary to give any grounded icebergs a wide bertli. As far as could be judged by the shore, it was high water on tlie 18th of August, two days after the full moon, at 11 p.m. A good landing will be found, with northerly to easterly winds, on the west side of tiio N.W. island, at the moutli of a deep ravine, in whicli is a river, and a quarter of a mile to the northward of which is a little cove with a beaeli, upon whicli a boat can be hauled up. I THE GARY ISLANDS. 81 beat up to Littleton Island, and take the letters on. Hut in the face of a northern gale, and the season fast passing away, and no information as to where the ' Alert ' and * Discovery ' had gone, I considered it far best to leave things as they were and proceed on my own affiiirs, as, if it were possible by chance that the ships were still southward of ns, they would pick up their letters on the way, and if north they would probably send down in the spring for them, if con- sidered of sufficient consequence. ]\Ioreover, had Captain Nares stated decidedly in his letter to me that he would go either to Littleton Island or to Gale Point, I would have pushed on to either one or the other in the hope of finding some news, but he left the question between these two places quite open, and the only certain position named by him appeared to be the Gary Islands. To have gone about from place to place under this un- certainty would have been out of the question, and would have involved my giving up all idea of Lancaster Sound, so I determined to make the best of my way in continuation of our programme, and at 1 a.m. we bore up before a fresh N.N.W. gale, with a high sea which rolled in on both sides of our decks, compelling us to secure the bunker-lids. Not a particle of ice was in sight, exce})ting a few gigantic bergs aground against the islands, and on the distant horizon. The engines were stopped, and we flew before the breeze to the S.W. at a speed which was quite new to us, and with the first really fair wind since leaving England. . t ; 5- 32 A YOUNG BEAR CAPTUUED. CFIAPTER VIT. LANCASTER SOUND AND BARROW STRAIT. The fair wind fell off as we si<;htcd the land of North Lincoln and Cobnrg Island, and we had a moderate N.W. wind through the night, with fine weather. Wo fell in with ice on the morning of the 20tli of August, lying about 130 miles east of Cape Horsburgh and Pliilpot's Island, and the wind coming from the southward we tacked to the S.E. A thick fog came on shortly afterwards, so we continued to the S.E. until evening, when it lifted, and we saw ice extending out from the land in small and large floes, intermingled with bergs. (Aug. 20.) Three bears being seen on the ice I went away in the second cutter with l*irie and Beynan, and after shooting the old she-bear and one cub we succeeded in getting a rope round the larger cub and towing him to the ship. Now began a most lively scene. The bear was almost full grown, and it was with some difficulty we got him on board and tied down to ring bolts with his hind legs secured, and notwithstanding this rough treatment he showed most wonderful energy in trying to attack anyone who came within reach, and especially our dogs, who seemed to delight in trying his temper. He was at last secured on the quarter-deck with a chain round his neck and under his fore-arras, and soon began to feed ravenously on — I am sorry to have to write it — his own mother, who was speedily cut up and pieces of her flesh thrown to my new shipmate. I hoped that he was only an adopted child, and the great d'fference between him I ' I . :i. !i I' ii)' II I ( < ■■■ . :i M' I', )■,>. ..,. •I I ill ICE IN LANCASTER SOUND. 83 ' and the other cub warranted this supitosition, as, being tliree times the size of tlie other, he conld not have been of the same litter. (Aug. 21.) We steered on towards the land about Capo Horsburgh ; a considerable quantity of ice lying off this remarkable promontory, or rather point, tlie glacier running- down until almost to the sea level, and projecting out over the low land. There is a singular conical hill to the north- ward of this glacier, which appears from the sea to be almost isolated. Passing roand the floating ice, and grounded pieces, we saw several seals basking in the sun, and, going away with Lillingston and Beynan, I brought on board a large bearded one,^ which we shot upon a high floe-piece. In towing him off he revived, broke the rope, and disappeared, but shortly afterwards arose, quite dead. On approaching Cape Warrender,^ a dense fog came on, and at 10 p.m. 1 was suddenly called on deck^, and found the shij) running amongst flues of ice. We immedia^ ly backed out, and stood away to tlie soutluvard (true), when the fog lifted for a few minutes, and wo saw a close pack extending across the straits as far as was visible from the topmast head. It was a dismal night, dense fog, freezing hard, a cutting wind, and surrounded by floes. I attempted to make fast, but ^iie currents so twisted the floes, that we only increased the risk of being beset ; I therefore continued working out to the eastward the whole night, never leaving the deck. (Aug. 22.) At 4 A.M. the fog cleared off, revealing exactly what I had so much feared ; a perfect barrier of ice, ' The btardcd sonl (Phoca Imrbata) is the ursuk o*' tlic Eskimo, It is the largest species uext tn the walrus. - Cnpo Wiirreiuler, so imnicd by Sir John Roes in 1818, is at the north side (jf the entrance of Laucuster Sound. : I 34 ICE IN LANCASTER SOUND. b^l! extending from Cape Warrender right across the straits ; at least, as far as we couhl gee from aloft, and iilling Croker Bay^ right into the lan(L We had also ice to the eastward, but seeing a lane of water, I stood in to the northward, in liopes of finding a lead inshore in Croker Bay. By 4 p.m. we were completely stopped, and made fast to a heavy floe about 8 or 10 miles off Cape Warrender. This floe \Aas of immense size, extending riL;ht into the land, not a drop of water being seen between us and tlie shore. At seven o'clock we were being surrounded, so I liastily cast off and stood back into the open space through which we had come, and into the middle of the straits. We had Divine Service in tlie evening; and being completely worn out, and unable to see any way of proceeding, I ordered the ship to be hove-to, and went to take a little rest, the first for thirty-six hours. Our new shipmate, the bear, made desperate struggles to get over the rail into the sea, but the chain was tightened, and at last he went to sleep. The 23rd was a bright, warm day. Joe had shot h small seal. We lived on seal and bear (of which we had about 600 lb. hung up in. the rigging), preferring it to the salt provisions. Not an opening was to be seen in the ice. We were about in the middle of the straits, and havinir yesterday made the north shore, now steered over to the south coast, and entering a slack place in the pack, we were enabled after much thumping and some intricate steering, to force our way through the floes and new ice, and reach a Clearwater off Admiralty Inlet.^ We made fast to a berg- ' Croker Bay is on tlio north slioro of Lancaster Sounil, west of Cnpc Wnr- rondor. It was so naniod by Parry in 1819, to eoiuponsatc for tlie Croker Mountains wliicli 8ir John Ross jilaced aero.ss Laneaster Sound in 1S18, and which had to be expunged. '' Admiralty lidtt in on the south side of Tianeastcr Sound, opposite to Croker 13av. Ill OFF ADMIRALTY INLET. 35 piece, in order to get fresh-water ice, but soon found a veiy strong current, which towed us back to the JiN.E., towards the pack from which we had emerged, compelling us to cast off before we had completed watering, 1 was at a loss to account for the barrier across Lancaster Soi.nd, never liaving heard of a record of any similar pack at this season in this part of the straits. Most of the floes were large and quite fresh, the snow apparently remaining just as it had fallen in the winter. Could the pack have driven out of Admiralty Inlet ? or had the straits in this longitude not broken up at all this season? I ht)ped later to receive reports from the whalers on these jjoints. Admiralty Inlet was now before us. It is a wide strait, and was apparently open, although from aloft a line of ice was reported on the distant horizon. I was sorely tempted to proceed down the inlet and communicate with the natives, with the object of ascertaining if it It'd through into Kegent's Inlet as I believed, but this report of ice pre- cluded the attempt ; and, moreover, we saw a dark sky in the westward off Cape Craufurd,^ and, therefore, pushed on along the edge of the pack, soon coming to an open sea, with the pack receding to the northward, in the direc- tion of Cape Bullen. The weather began to threaten, and the barometer fell rapidly, and E. to S.E. winds springing up and freshening, wo bowled away to the westward, in the direction of Cape Craufurd, with far lighter hearts than yesterday, when our progress seemed to be entirely barred. While at tea we heard a loud crash, and hastening on deck found that we had just grazed an iceberg, which had broken our starboard anchor adrift. Had the ship not answered her helm readily, we must have hit it, and in all proljability the ' Pandora's ' career would have been ended for ever. The night promised to be gloomy, and I was somewhat anxious: ' Capo Craufurd in ou the western side of the entrance to Admiralty Inlet, D 2 W I? 86 TROUBLE WITH THE BEAR, 3 ■ 1 snow foil thickly at 8 r.M., with a gusty S.E. wind. SYo proceeded with easy steam, ready to put about at any moment. The temperature was only 30°, but the wind was soft and mild. As I anticipated, we passed a most dismal night, the wind increasing and howling in the rigging. Snow and sleet also prevailed as we scudded onward, an iceblink frequently ahead ; then the inevitable floe in streams and loose pieces, with the sea dashing over them as we flew between. Now and then the moon shone out, but only to make the scene still more ghastly, for our masts and rigging, decks and bulwarks were covered with ice and snow. At 11 P.M. we caught a glimpse of the land, apparently some- where between Sargent Point and Cape York.^ It was only for a moment, and then all was darkness and wind and snow and ice. While we were in this situation our bear gradually worked himself into a state of frantic excitement — getting up to the rail, watching the floe ice rapidly dashing past our side — ami in his attempts to get over the bulwarks he released his chain until it was evident that in a few moments he would be free, whether to dive overboard or to run a muck among the watch appeared a question of doubt. IMie alarm being given by Pirie, who was writing up the deck log, the watch was called to secure the bear, and I fear that during tlie half hour which elapsed the ship was left, more or less, to take care of herself. The whole watch, besides Pirie with a revolver, and myself with a crowbar, assaulted the unfortunate Bruin, whose frantic struggles and endeavours to attack everyone within reach were quite as much as we could control. He was loose, but by a fortunate event a running noose was passed round his neck, and the poor brute ' So named by Sir Edward Parry iu 1819, after tlic Duke of York. It is at tho wedtorn entranco of Trinco Rogent'd Inlot. Parry iiamud another capo, between Admiralty and Navy Board Iidets, on August 31, 1820, after tho Right Hon. Charles P. Yorke, grandson of tlie first Earl of Ilardwiekc, who was First Lord of the Admiralty from 1810 to 1812. SCUDDING UP BARROW STRAIT. 37 was hauled down to a ring-bolt until we could secure tbe chain round his neck and body. I had hitherto no concep- tion of the strength of these animals, and especially of tbe power of their jaws. Fearing that the iron crowbar might injure his tcetb, I jammed a mop handle into his mouth while the others were securing his chain, and he bit it completely through. At last Bruin gave in, and beyond an occasional struggle to get loose, and a constant low growling, he gave us no further trouble. I ought to mention that in the midst of the scrimmage the Doctor was called up to give him a dose of opium, in the hope of subduing him by this means, but having succeeded in getting him to swallow a piece of blubber saturated in chloroform and opium sufficient to kill a dozen men, our Bruin did not appear to have experienced the slightest effect, and the Doctor, who volunteered to remain up, and expressed some anxiety as to the bear's fate, retired below somewhat disappointed. I was on deck the whole night. The snow turned into sleet in the morning, and we scudded up Barrow Strait, and at eight suddenly saw land. (August 24.) Our compasses were almost useless. We had been threading through the ice. We could not distinguish anything beyond a dark black foot of cliff, about 2 miles away. The sliip is about, and stands to the S.E. (true). Gradually the fog and sleet are less dense, and we see by the trend of the coast-line that we are on the north shore, for I cannot say that at first I did not feel sure we were close down upon Leopold Island. On the fog again lifting, we saw about 10 miles of coast about Cape Fellfoot, and at 10 a.m. bore away to the westward again, before a strong easterly wind, passing through streams of heavy ice, which was much broken by the gale of the previous night. We did not feel the full effects of this gale, being sheltered by the pack we passed through. I recollect that in the ' Fox ' we were subjected to a much more severe ( 'I il 38 OFF CAPE RICKETTS. I- 'I h \ ■ gale when rnnniug up tlie same straits under similar circum- stances, with the exception of having 20 or 30 miles of pack ice between us and Baffin's Sea. The barometer fell to 29 . 40. We got occasional glimpses of the land until 4 p.m., when all was obscured by a perfect pall of fog. I kept the ship S.W. (true) as we passed what must have been Maxwell Bay, the wind still blowing in gusts from the eastward, and heavy ice coming constantly in our way. Looms were continually flying out to seaward, and occasionally a flock would cross us, evidently making straight into the land, and by these signs and the wind we continued our lonely course, our compasses being useless, and there being no other guide. A dense gloom and fog, with snow and sleet, prevailed throughout the night, and we could see but a few cables' length, the mist hanging over us like a curtain. I was anxious to get to Beechey Island, to examine the state of the depot there in case of a mishap, and at 5 A.M. (August 25) we rounded to, after passing through a heavy stream of ice, not being able to determine our posi- tion. We hud no sun and no soundings, and I could only judge that we were somewhere ofif the land about Capo Hurd. This was a dark day, with nothing to distract the attention from the damp, cold, and gloom, beyond the occa- sional trimming of the sails. We were iced-up aloft, and great flakes of frozen snow, and hard pieces of ice frequently came down. I earnestly watched the barometer, and at 6 P.M. the mercury rose one-tenth of an inch, and the wind, which was squally and battling from the eastward, veered more to the N.E. The looms began to pass us from the north, flying south, and at 1.30 p.m. we caught sight of a patch of snow at the foot of the land, which suddenly appeared as if it had rolled from the heavens, and was not more than half a mile distant. Wo were off Cape Ricketts, and a magnificent view was displayed before us. The steep, CHANGE OF WEATHER. 39 precipitous cliffs appoarcid to lian- over our lieads, and all tlie clefts and ravines and gorr^os in the neighbourhood were white with drift-snow. Cape Hotham appeared in the dis- tance hke a golden mound, the sun being reflected uj.on its icy summit. No ice could be seen, save a few half-worn bergs, one of which supplied us with enough water for " week's consumption in less than half an hour, its ed-es being broken off with an axe. White whales and seals swam around, and appeared to gaze^it us as if we were some appa- rition coming out from the gloom, and we seemed to be in another world. Such are the changes in this extraordinary climate. The contrast between the sliining sun above, and our sloppy, half-frozen decks and snow-covered rigcvino- was most striking. ° ° 40 \T ANCHOU OFF DEECHEY ISLAND. CJIAPTER Vlil. BEECHEY ISLAND. We lighted our stoves below, for the first time since leaving England, giving our damp and* cold quarters a good drying up, and raising the temperature below from 38° to 54°, a heat which really felt oppressive. At 8 p.m. we were flying towards Beechey, under steam and fore-and-aft canvas. We attempted to take photographs, and occasionally stopped the ship, but our artist desponded in consequence of the slight movement of the waters, whioli appeared to us only the merest undulation. He succeeded, however, in getting one or two of the magnificent headlands, as we stopped for the purpose immediately under them. We also tried the lead-line, but could find no bottom at 70 fathoms, close to the shore ; there may be from 90 to 100 fathoms, as the lead had been down twice on a hard ground with 120 fathoms out. At 9.30 we sighted Capo Riley and Beechey Island. We saw a cairn with a staff at the south end, and we soon made out a house and boats upon the low shore. The wind increased from the north, with all appearance of a gale. I prepared to anchor, and steered in towards the bay. At eleven we anchored in 12 fathoms, mud and clay bottom, Northumberland House bearing N.N.E. {mag.) about a quarter of a mile, and veered to 30 fathoms of cable. It now blew a gale from N. to N.N.W. directly out of the bay. I went on shore with two of the officers to inspect the place, and ascertain the state of the provisions and boats. I found that the house had been stove in at the door and in both sides by the wind and bears, and almost i\ _ ^ JO We , Ent, j 1 heat i towf ; atte i ; . the ! / ; sligl ^ the one . : the : lead to t , the : i iatli i Islai I / A we s j': J The iHli i Ate Norl quar now 1 ' ^^y' m ij '^'^''^tf M: door '- -I, \' i : , -I ' I ■ 1 - n \V i I . !. li; , t^ ,| C-ipe Riley, v/here the first relios ^f Prnnklin';; Expediti-'n were fiund. ^ rf , >• !'!■ %lk \i I "'^^v.t^v-yij'rfi^-*.,^^ ft « ', < ! ■■W,' The ' Mary ' pt Beechey Island. 1 ^ 41 m • i' ^•S- CONDITION OF THE DEPOT AND BOATS. 41 ;i K everything light and nutveuble eitlier blo\YU out or dragged out by bears, which had also torn up all the tops of the bales, and scattered the contents around for some distance. The house was nearly full of ice and snow, and frozen so hard that we could not remove anything excepting with pickaxe and crowbar, and even then only the few things which were projecting above the surface. The tea chests were all broken open and most of their contents scattered about. Many of the beef casks had been eaten through the bilges, and the contents extracted. The whole place was a scene of con- fusion, and the kitchen a mere wreck. I could not find any traces of the place having been visited by human beings since 'mr departure in the 'Fox,' on the 14th of August, 1858. The only thing I noticed was that a coal fire had been made on the beach ; but this might have been done by our crevr of the ' Fox,' or even by the crews of the S(iuadi'on of Sir Ed. Eelcher. A cask of rum standing in the doorway intact was conclusive proof to my mind that neither Eskimo nor British sailors had entered that way. I found the ' jMary,' cutter yacht, in good condition ; her bottom appeared quite uninjured, but we could not see her garboard for the stones heaped under the bilges to keep her upright. She stood in apparently the same position as when formerly placed there. In her fore compartment is an anclior and chain, some horn lanterns as bright as new, and sundry boatswain's stores. In her main cabin the sails are stowed in the wings, and beyond a slight leakage irom the decks the cabin was dry, perfectly clean and free of snow. The after compartment was in a similarly good state, and a set of car- penter's tools and caulking implements were carefully stowed there. The ladder was in excellent order, most of the spars good. Standing rigging was aloft, but no running gear could be found. I should consider that the ' JMary ' Ui/ght be made available for a retreating party in about four or five days ■jh'f |t: I 4~i flMfi I I > 42 "™ - -^ BO..S A. ...,„,, ,,,^,^^ t X X X \y X—lJoO Oct. 1831. t w N-1151 Oeto 1851. . j^^ ' ^ ^^^^^ supposed to whaler ' M'Lell.,, v.. , ' ^°''*'' "^•'^"t^ "«'! «parsV,J- ' . f ','^ ^"""^''' ^^'^^ ^>r Leopold MT'Iintock visited ft ,^ '"' '" ^^^^^^'^^ ^'^Y in 1T52 August n.,,.r,s> ♦'^'^ J"^"«e and exnmined tl,/.t"rel "n 4 ND. '■i'iio Jifcboaf tliG wood 5 complete, 3 were ten 3. ^ Hfeboat I'kod fi 'ofasten- ' in tLe outside osod to icii First I) PulJen 1852-53 iiisc was mtrican ill 1852. ores on ''•'■■\ % T ■M. M )4 1 * frStl if'. ff f m f I f Franklin and Bslljt, Monument and Post OiTic3. Beachey Island. i i \ r..-^ ^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // U.s l6 1.0 [fl^ IM I.I 11.25 •^ i^ 12.2 1.8 U IIIIII.6 V] <^ /A C ^^J> «> -> ^ V (? 7 / -«^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. M580 (716) 872-4503 6^ t > r-* ■" «KS. ^- :,->-'^ *r.,iZ^ ^P- I ,^ f i)\ 'if"-*. .: Nonhumborlo.nd House. Beechey Island. I •I :. t \ 1 1 , .. . • I ,)• ■ ■ j I ■ ! ■ ' il • ■ . ' 1 ■■ ■ i , ■ i ! I I •W^>fc;<" ■■i ii .4" yilW'itff: >*ej^i' .".j»i^;^> ■'. . ■ 'r rf:. ' '■%^.'. THE FUA.NKLIN MONUMENT AND POST OFFICE. 43 luivo bc^i'ii torn up by tlic bt-ars. 'i'his bout could also be made seivicfablo in one day, and is in an easy i)ositi(jn for la\nK'hing. A wluileboat on tho south side of tlio house unserviceable. The iceboat on runners could be easily made serviceable. Tiie (lagstaff is standing all right, and the arrangement for pointing tiie direction (trHe), in good order, but there is no vane or arrow. I found the pedestal in good condition, and also the nuirble tablet in memory of the Franklin expedition, the brass plate which M'Clintock fastened on it being quite bright, as if the bears had been lying on it.^ The record box was hanging to a beam in tho house, and having •examined the original list of provisions, and M'Clintock's record, which was as fresh as if just written, I took a copy of it, and removed all the documents to the post oflice in the pedestal, for safer keeping, and in which 1 found only a memorandum from Sir E. Belcher. (Aug. 20.) At 8 A.M., the wind having partially moderated, wo commenced to clear some of the ice and snow; and having with great difficulty found such provisions as we were actually in need of, and thirteen bags of coal, of which there still remained at least 10 tons, I placed a record of our proceedings in the pedestal, with a list of the provisions taken away, and embarked at 7 r.M., having carefully re- paired and closed tiie house. Our artist was busily employed all day in taking photographs of every obj(.'ct of interest, and Mv. Beynan was sent to the summit of the island to report on the ice. He could not see any from any visible point in the horizon, but in the south-west a mist was hanging which prevented the completion of his observations. ' See M'Clintock'd ' Fate of Franklin,' p. 173. i:!l 44 rUOSSINO BARROW STRAIT. CiHArTEK IX. PEEL STRAIT. Having got all the bouts up, wo weighed anchor at 8 r.M., and stood away to the southward for Peel Strait, the wind being fresh from the N.W. (August 27.) At 4 a.m. we were among luoso ice, and at noon a heavy pack sto{)ped our progress, when I made fiist to a floe to await the clearing of the fog, which soon lifted, enabling us to proceed under steam through the pack, which extended as far as we coukl see along the north shore of North Somerset, and particularly ofi' Cape Rennell and about half-way across Barrow^ Strait, lying in an easterly and westerly direction. As we pushed on, the ice became more open, and by 5 p.m. wo were steering through navigable lanes towards Limestone Island, which wo could just see from aloft, topping above the icy horizon. We were off Cunningham Inlet, and Cape Hotham,^ with Griffith Island^ in sight, to the northward. We ranged up to an enormous " ursuk " (bearded seal), nearly as large as a walrus, for which we at first took him; but he was lying on a very small piece of ice, and although our bullets went through him, he floundered into the sea, and did not rise again. We thus lost at least 500 lb. of good meat and oil. Our bear was getting more reconciled to his confinement ; but when we were among close ice, he got into a state of fury in his endeavour to get out of the ship, and our dogs were constantly worrying him by stealing his food. ' Cuniiinghnm Inlet is on the coast of North Somerset. Cape Ilotliam is the S.E. point of Coniwnllis Island, forming the western side of the entrance to Wellington Channel. ' The expedition of Captain Austin, consisting of the ' Resolute,' ' Assist- iiuco,' ' Pioneer,' and ' Intrepid,' wintered oflf Griffith Island in 1850-51. AT LlilESTONK ISLAND. 15 At iiiglit \V(; ranu' to u ;jolid harrier of ico, oxtciKling out from tli(j laiid about ( upc lu'iinoll to tlic W.N.W. (tnio), as fur as could bo seen from aloft, with ti bright icy sky from south round to N.W. {true). Wo thcu mmXe fust to await a change.' I detoruiiucd to wait at least twenty-four hours, aud if wo could not then pass, to bear U}) for liegcut's Inlet and Bellot Strait; but at 8 a.m. (August 28) the ice slackcncil a litth', and by 10 wo pushed tlirough a small lano wiiich ultimately led us to Limesttmo Island.^ Our artist took more photographs and sketches mIuIo wo were fast to the floe, and wo took the sam(3 ()p[)ortunity to fill u}) with fresh water, aud give the dogs a run. This morning it was freezing hard, with a temiioraturc^ of 27°, aud our rigging was completely covered with rime; but dark clouds now arose in the south-west, the barometer began to fall, and the wind to arise from the eastward to E.IS.E. Finding a land water round Limestone Island, I hauled into the N.E. entrance, and landed to examine the stores wliich were said to be at Capo Bunny. It was raining heavily, with gusts from the mainland, and occasional sleet. I landed, aud hauled up our boat on a shelving bea(di composed entirely of loose limestone pebbles, and at once proceeded to the low point (Cape Bunny), but could not find anything. Having sent the Doctor and Beynan round the beach, I ascended the gradual slope or ridge leading to the summit of the island, and when about three-quarters of a mile from the point, and at an elevation of about 300 feet, I descried a cairn, evidently built by civilized hands, the ' Wc sounded in 110 fathoms while fast to tlio Hoc, bottom limestone mud, about 7 miles off the land, Cunningham Inlut, E.S.E. (trm). Before the change in the weather, the red sandstone hills about Cape ATme(on the main- land of North Somerset, opposite Limestone Island) presented a brilliant reddish glow from the reflection of tlie sun, aud reminded me of the Highlands when the heatlier is in full bloom on a bright day. On tlio other haml, the transition to the limestone was clearly defined, tiie latter presenting the usual dull and gloomy appearance so well known to Arctic travellers. ' Limestone Island is on the cast siile of the entrance to Peel Strait. -I 46 ANCIENT REMAINS OF ESKIMO. j^round havint needless to say that he did not get it. We noticed (he tide ebbing from the time we landed at 3 . 30, until we re-embarked at 5.30, when it was apparently nearly low water by the shore, the current having continued running about three knots to the northward through the channel between the island and the main. I embarked with an anxious mind, for the wind was in- creasing to a gale, the weather thicdcening fast; we were drenched with rain and very cold, and the prospect from the top of the island was not very encouraging. J lowever, I was determined to persevere, and to push into Peel Strait if ])os- sible. I ordered the ship to be steered through the channel between the island and the main, and having changed my clothes in our snug and warm cabin, I went on tlie damp, dreary deck again. We passed through the clianncl, sound- ing in 30 fathoms, about a quarter of a mile off tlie extreme point of Cape IJunny, and finding a strong current running through from the southward. The night was one of the most dreary I ever passed at sea, and I have had my share. The wind continued in fitful gusts, rain and sleet in torrents, thick mist, no soundings, no compass, land on one side and ice on the other. We could just distinguish the foot of the land and cliffs, as we passed close under them, by the dark line over the gleam of tlie grounded ice. 15y nine it was ■18 SIIOKKS OF VKl.L STKAIT. dark'. ^^^' I'lirlt'd all sails, and steamed airaiiist tlic im\v, cdj^'iii^' (jfl* to tlic ice as a more seciiro ^iiid(( for our ooiirso than th(! land, wliicli we could not lollow. jly (deven it was BO tiiic'v tliat \V(; could literally hcu notliin<,^ hut the occasional shoon of the ico us we passed aloii^ it on the starhoard hand. Anxiously (Au;,nist '2!>) I waited for li^dit; hut it was three o'clock heforo we coidd fairly s(m>, ami about four a lift in tho mist eiuihlcd us to sec that wo were AX ('a[»e Granite,^ and steering; a fair course alon-,' the land. l>y seven we wore oft' a wide bay, the land recedinjjj from about 1(1 miles south of Capo (Jranite, with a friu|j;i) of islands north and south, and forminjjf th(> line of coast. Our patent log was put over, and on the mist clearing in the westward we saw tho land to the W.N.W., about Lyons Point and Cape Ih'ggs." The wind had uov come round to W.S.W. and west, but as yet wo saw no sun to guide us, or by which to take any angles or direc- tions ; so wo continued along the coast-lin(% tho ice receding and there being none visible in the W.S.W. or south. Tho barometer rose to 2fl.9") with an appearance of better weatiu-r, and wo seemed to have arrived in another climate, and also in an iceless sea, for the cold sting was gone from the air, and only a few small pieces could bo scon. Tho land was fpiite exposed and devoid of snow% excepting occasionally in the interior, in which direction we sometimes got a glimpse of snow patches. Wo did not see tho small island marked on tho chart in the middhi of the strait. IJy 2 VM. we had passed Howe Harbour, and were off a projecting point not named by Sir James Ross, which is merely noticed as having a lake upon it. Passing within half a mile, we tried for soundings, but could find no bottom with 120 fathoms. I supposed this to be to ' Capo Granite, on the eastern shore of Peel Strait. " Lyons Point, on I'rincc of Wales Island, is on the west side of the entrance Peel Strait. Cape liiggs is on the same side, a few miles further south. ('> 4 1 I s I 1^ SIR JAMF.S ROSSH ('Ain\. Ill Tho I lluniniock Point, mid noticed ii rookery of slviuis ' on tlie laer' of tlie <,n'iinit(i (did's — lliey woro sitting on tlio nudis in linn- dreds. The vegotiition Ibrnied an extensive greiMi jialcii, extending from near the summit to hiy;h-\vatcr mark, or >vhere the ice forms. Wo kept a good look-ont on the slioro by monns of a poworfid astronomical ttdeseope, and cairns wore frcqmMitly reported to me; but on inspection they proved to be granite Ixmhicr stones, with whicdi the coast, and especially the ridges, are strewn. At 10 r.M. I returned on board from visiting tho cairn built by Sir Janu?s lioss and Sir \j. M'Clintock on Capo Coulman. We found it without dilHculty, as we passed v ' Lieulonant lirowne was the secoiul Licutonnnt of tlic 'Resolute,' inider Ciiptuin Auritin. lie led an exteiulcd sletlge i>ni'ty Iroiu Capo Walker duwu the wosti'i'ii bide of Peel Strait in tlie sjiring (jf ISjI. ,«.*-i,.T-r-nJ! wore STOPPED BY THE ICE. 51 i y have (liscovored, under M'Cliutock's eeinmaiul, the hiiul ou both sides of these straits southward of Drowne's farthest on the western shore, and southward of the i)oint or <'ai)e jihout eight miles south of this cairn on this or western sith\ and to which point Ross walked, having left his party to build the cairn on Capo Coulnian during his absence. We saw a number of white whales in the bay immediately south of Cape Coulman, and also picked up several horns of the reindeer here. Having left a copy of Ross's recoril, with another of our own, 1 took away the original paper, aiitl after carefully closing the cylinder, deposited it in its former plac(% and we returned to our shi[), and steamed towards the next cape, distant about 8 or 9 miles to the southward, and the wind being southerly and the flood tide against us, we went slowly, with all sails furled. We passed Four River Point about 10 p.m., and, a thick fog coming on, had to lay-to for the remainder of the night. At 5 A.M. we passed outside the islands lying off the coast, and found a wide stream of ice extending east and west across the strait, passing through which we came again into a large expanse of water. But an icy sky southward, and a chilly feeling in the air, warned us that we were ai)i)roaching a large body of ice, and by 4 p.m. we came to the puck edge, about a mile to the northward of Levesque Ishmd, and extending from the shore 4 miles north of False luht, or Fitzroy Inlet, in a concave form, round to the western shore. From the masthead we could see nothing to the southward but a soxid pack, and a bright icy sky beyond, and a solitary iceberg about 10 miles south of us, for which I could not account as it is foreign to these straits, and must either have been driven down Barrow Strait or Sl'Clintock Channel from the north-west. This berg was important, as bearing upon the movement of the ice here. \;--i-^ £ 2 f u.'- iA VloTOftiA, '^' i, 62 VERIFYING FORJIEU WORK. ClIArTER X. AN IMPAPSABT.E BARIUER. It was witli a heavy licart that T ma'le fast to tlic floe, about a mile and a half from shore. We were in hit. 72° 14', and close to my former encampment when travelling in June, 1850, I'rom the ' Fox,' then in Port Keimedy. Islands, coast, and ice appeared familiar to me, and I could recognize all the points of interest which we observed duiing that dreadful march, when, wading up to our thighs in water, and nearly broken down with the fatigues of three months' continuous travel, I barely reached the western entrance of Bellot Straits. I can now account for our having then passed Ross's Cairn without seeing it, as it was we found it with difficulty, even with all hands in the ship on the look-out and at our leisure, for it is not built upon the upper ridge of the point, and is quite concealed from view from the south, and upon almost every beariug. On the former occasion we were ]n'ess- ing on for our lives, and having passed Cape Coulman with- out distinguishing the cairn in the misty weather, it was utterly impossible to return even a yard. l»y seven o'clock, the 'Pandor..' entered upon my own surveys, and, with some interest, combined with anxiety, my own chart was brought out for our guidance, and for cor- roboration, and I was surprised, considering the extremely difficult circumstances under which I was travelling at the time it was drawn, to find how correctly the islands, and alsc» the main laud, which was sketched under still greater diffi- culty by Sir James lloss, were laid down. We made such corrections as were found necessary, and these have enabled li -4. VIEW TO THE SOUTHWARD, 53 I lis to give a tolerably correct plan of the strait as far as we went. We were not destined to enjoy much repose, for at 8 p.m. tlie loose ice throngli which we had passed in the forenoon began to settle down on us, and we were compelled to cast oft' from the beach, and steam again to the northward into clear water to escape fi-om being beset. We saw Cape Bird/ distant about 15 miles, and the ice appeared to be jammed into the shore as close or even tigliter than oft' Fitzroy Inlet, where we were. We sounded in 93 fathoms, finding a sand bottom. (Aug. 31.) We lay-to the whole night, off the pack edge; a dense fog set in at midniglit, lasting until 5 a.m., when we discovered that we had drifted close to De la Eoquette Islands, and I landed ui)on the largest of the four to deposit a record and view the ice, getting with difficulty through the young and loose ice whicli was forming between the floes. From the summit of the island, 200 feet high, we could see one unbroken pack extending from shore to shore, and as far as the visible horizon to the southward, and so close that no ship could penetrate beyond a few lengths into it. The ice had also drifted, during the last twenty-four hours, up both shores to northward, and we were in a deep bight, to get out of whicli we should have to retire as far as Barth Island. We could jilainly see the entrance to Bellot Strait, and the ice was tight packed on the shore there, holding out no hopes of our being able to got out in that direction, or I should have been glad to have held on there upon the chance of some change taking place. Our prospect is gloomy in the extreme — we cannot go south, and I am loth to turn back yet there is nothing else to be done, for a boat could not get through the pack, and to attempt to travel over it would be fatal. We built a conspicuous cairn on the summit of the ' Capo Bird, the farthest point seen by Sir Jnmcs Ross from Cape Coulman, ia ou the north side of the wcstcru entrance to BcUot Strait. ni 54 VIEW PROM ROQTTETTE ISLAND. n \ largest island, and placed in it a record of this our, I fear, most southern position, and, with a sad spirit, I descended to the boat. We observed the dip to be 88^ 30'. We lay-to all night, a mile or two from Roqnette Islands, and in the bight of the pack, which now extended northward along the shore of North Somerset nearly to Barth Island, and westward to about the same latitude, the surface of the sea freezing all (September 1) night, and presenting in the morn- ing a glazed appearance all round. A fog commenced about 1 A.M., and at two was quite dense until eight, when I stood back to Eoquette Islands. The wind remained southerly throughout the day, with intermittent fogs, and I made several preparations to land on the island to obtain another view of tho ice, but it was not until 6 p.m. that we could get through tho loose ice surrounding it. A strong south wind was blowing on the other side of the island, and the ice was rapidly sailing up past the group, I had therefore only time to run up to the +op and get a hasty glance to the south before I found it im- perative to make all haste to tho boat and push off to the ship, which was already surrounded by floes, and we were nearly cut off from her. We at once commenced to free ourselves from the pack, and steamed northward for about 3 miles, when we again lay-to. I observed no change from the island, excepting that the immense pack southward was moving towards us, and the berg which the night before last was about 10 mile.? av-ay to the southward was now nearly up to the islands. I could see no water beyond a few cracks in the first 5 miles, ani' the ice had gradually crept uji the shore, reaching nearly to Barth Island ; and to the westward, still farther north. We were still in a deep bay in the ice. All southward one unbroken pack across from side to side. Fitzroy Island full. Bellot Strait packed close in ; and there L no hope of getting farther south. I was most anxious about our posi- AN IMPASSABLE BARniEIl. 55 tion, and if possible to reach lie) lot Strait, because there we could run through and await the ice movement northward, and perhaps proceed soutliward after it liad passed, but from here we must have inevitably gone northward if the pack continued to advance in that direction. To winter here would have been useless, as we could not possibly have done more than IM'Clintock and Hobson did by travelling over King William Island with the spring and winter snow on the ground; and, moreover, we must have abandoned the ship in the spring before the water made on the floe, as we could not depend upon getting the ship out next Slimmer. I was very loth to turn back, and struggled on, almost against hope, either to reach Bellot Strait or to proceed southward. AVe had not many hours to make up our minds, but I was inclined to give it another day's trial ; and then, if we perceived no fiivourable movement in the ice, to retreat by Peel Strait, in which case even, we should have to get through the pack which almost closed the northern entrance. To remain here at this season was out of the question. We w^ere hourly in danger of being beset in the pack, and if we could not reach Bellot Strait on the following day, I decided to consider seriously our retreat to the northward. Thus all my hopes were dashed to the ground ; we were helpless, and could not proceed by any human possibility — no boat could get half a mile through this ice, nor could one walk many yards in it. It was a dense mass of small divided llocs, intermingled here and there with large old iloes. To travel on the land was equally impossible, and especially without the ship being fixed in some known and secure position, and a boat would be required even then in order to cross from Boothia to Xing William Island. I now- almost gave up all hope of our making the North- West Passage this year ; and, indeed, was more than ever of It! 56 IMPOSSIBLE TO REACH DELLOT STRAIT. the opinion tluit tlio only way to accomplish it would be to proceed by way of IJellot Strait, tliero awaiting the moving of the pack northward, and then pushing as fast as possible down to Cape Victoria, for I thought that if the northern part of Peel Strait was entirehj free of ice, as we had found it, tlie pack would be to the southward, as it was impossible that 120 miles of ice could have dispersed, and it was more probable that it swayed backwards and forwards, northward and southward in the straits, until arrested bv the frosts of September. We were evidently on the northern edge of it, and as it probably impinged about the Q^asmania group,^ we could not hope for a passage unless with a south {true) or S.S.E. wind ; and then we should be, in our present position, carried back with it. Once only in Bellot Strait, where we could hold on, I believed that this southerly gale, which was evidently blowing with great force beyond our visible horizon, would eventually move the ice up north- ward until wo could go on ; but I could see no hope of reaching Bellot Strait, for although its entrance could be plainly seen, I could detect nothing but one mass of ice closely packed along the shore. Neither could I see any hope in the western horizon, for when we attempted to go in that direction we were headed off until we found ourselves steering north, and without any indication of any lead of water along the shore of Prince of Wales Land. We got several seals, and also shot a quantity of mul- lemokkes for the dogs. Numbers of white whales were constantly around the ship, but altliough we twice lowered a whale boat, with harpoon, gun, and line, we did not succeed in securing one. On visiting Roquette Island to-day, we discovered a remarkable • The Tasmauia group, on the west coast of Boothia, ia at the south eutrance of Frankliu Channel, which is the southern continuation of Peel Strait. hi I I. I ;.l -'I i" ^ ' til ■ !..l,l I . * I.I - 1 • . '. '.'1 •;. •! -.li -■ I " "' . ,{ :r. .\ i M I 'li ii -;l, 'I ,' .. ^ ,,,,1 1 , -I I •^ .1 >^i]t( t ■ ■ - • . ' ( ' i 1,. .!■ I'll" ^11 '. I K •«.>j'»*'*"* ' j.c,iit^> ' ^.a«»'^iM^>' '*m^ My last, look at ihe North-West Passage, Sept. 2nd. 1'\ r I ONLY ONE COURSE LEFT. 57 pool or sTTiftll lake near tlio summit, comiflctoly surroiiudod by mosses, ami forming' an entire circle. Wo also saw quantities of the (lung of reindeer and several looms, thus provinuj that the deer must cross to these islands on the ice in search of food. Seeing that the ship was being fast enclosed in the drift- ing ice, I hastened down to the boat, and only arrived on board in time to get the * Pandora ' clear of tlie island, as the ice-floes were swimmiug round her ; and we had to back in close to the beach before we could get her head the riglit way. A gale now commenced from the southward, with sleet, snow, and mist, and the northern edge of the pack bi'gan to break away and fly before the wind. Tliero was only one course to pursue to prevent being beset, viz. to run before the gale and outstrip the sailing Hoes, which had already preceded us on either hand. il > ) ■1 r. [ i ^ 58 JCi: IN PEKI, STUAir. ClIArTKK XI. A ri;UIL()US RACK WITH TlIK UK. (Sept. 2.) We passed a dlsinul iii.ujht, drifting with low sail to tlio nortl)ward before tlie gale, in eoinpany witli largo and small llocs and fields of ice, whidi gleamed through the darkness, and gave u weird appearance to the sea. We could not perceive anything at a distance of more tiian Indf a mile, and had constiint alarms of a pa(dv ahead, which, however, proved to be only streams of ice. By eight in the morning w<; had for half an hour a clear view, and I could see that wo were close u[) to IJarth Island, lloquitte Islands being in the horizon, and surrounded by pack ice. I3y noon the wind came rouml to north, and blew a fresh gale with snow, and a new [»hase came over the scene, for quantities of ice of a diflV^rent description were coming from the northward, viz. fresh, md)roken fields of a year's growth, and w\th the smooih snow on the surface. I could not imagine where all this fresh ice came from, unless out of Browne's Bay ; ^ it appeared to fill the straits northward of us, and we worked to wind- ward the whole day, until up to Olrick Island, when we still saw more and mor(3 ice coming down, ai)parently filling the straits, leaving oidy a small space between the island and the shores of North Somerset ; and having reached this water, we commenced to dodge about for the night. I close-reefed the topsails, as they froze so ftist after any rain or sleet, that we should have been in great trouble if we had had to shorten sail suddenly, and I therefore meant to keep in the reefs until we were short of coals. ' A ckep bay on the west side of Peel Strait. Tnr: cruis-i: down vt.v.i. stiuit. r.i) 'I'lio I)iirom('t('r liud oscillatod in ti curious wjiv duriu'r the lust tliirty-six hours, liavinjj^ fiillcii to 2!I.G0, nud lisiiif;' nt S P.M. to 2d. Ho, with 11 (larU -^dooiny sky, iiiid a stronj; N.X.W. wiud. On the 3nl of September wo stood hade towards tho western land, liaving (doai-e(l tho uorlluTU cd^^o of tho h)oso ico; hut wo soon met a^i^ain a quantity of ico uii(h'r tho wostorn slioro, which quite frustrated my intention of hmdinj^ and obtaining ii view from tlie hi^li cliffs. Tho wind camo on at tho same time from tlu; scmthward, and be;4an to blow in squalls, with snow and sleet. From the topmast head I could see nothing but a dense pa(dv of ice southward of us, and all tliatwc; had been passing was arrested by the block of what I still thought was jtack ice across the strait from Kennedy Bay to tho southern ])(iint of Jj(ll()t Strait. There seemed no hope in that direction, and I reluctantly bore away to the northward before the gale. This was a sail blow to all our hopes. On the previous Sunday we were running through these straits, witli a clear sea, and with not a sign of ice ; on Monday we passed Darth Island whilst at dinner, and by four o'clock were arrested at the iioquetto Islands by an impenetrable pack. Shortly after- wards I obtained a view from the summit of the largest of this group and could not see a drop of water to the southward, it being one sheet of ice across from side to side, and as far as tho visible horizon — 10 miles — for we were at an elevation of abouf, 200 to 250 feet. As wo had the spring tides of th(^ n(!W moon I hoped that it might give way, but after lying four days about the edge of the barrier, no change had taken place, and I had already given up all hope of passing south this season, for I felt convinced that the pack ice extended right across from Kennedy iJay, towai'ds the Tasmania group. We Lad gone within 140 miles of Point Victory, and it was too provoking that we could not even proceed that II ;!■ 60 DECISION AS TO THE FUTURE. distance, if only to return tliis way ; but I saw no hope, and therefore sailed northwards again. On the 3rd wo luid the temperature about 27° to 28°, with barometer 29 . CO. We passed Howe Harbour about 2 p.m. and continued northward under reefed sail until 8 p.m., when being close to the land southward of Wadworth Island, we tacked to the northward, and sounded in 80 fathoms, mud and sand bottom, (Sept. 4.) I revolved in my mind the best course to pursue. To return southward again seemed hopeless, as we should only arrive at the edge of the pack which lay to the north of the fast ice in the straits, and which who.i we left it had accumulated up to Barth Island. We had already lost 10 miles of ground, as it was impossible to remain in the position we first reached at the lloquette Islands from having no harbour or bay in which we could anchor, and from the ice constantly coming down upon us from the north and compelling us to fleet up clear of it, which I did, in order to prevent being beset in a position in which we must neces- sarily have abandoned the ship the next spring, and have travelled to Fury Beach, Port Leopold, and possibly Beechey Island, and therefore we could not even attempt to explore King William Island by sledge parties, which, even if possible, could not have resulted in finding any remains of the Frank- lin Expedition beyond those obtained by M'Clintock and Hobson, who had made an exhaustive search, and whose foot- steps we could only follow. To remain in the strait for the winter would certainly have involved the loss of the ship, as we could not afford to wait until the following August upon the chance of coming out, as the northern part of Peel Strait was evidently only occasionally open. To proceed round by Eegent Inlet to Bellot Strait appeared an alternative, but we had already seen at least 10 miles of solid ice southward of Bellot Strait, right across Franklin Channel, with a bright A RACE WITH THE ICE TO CAPE REXNELL. 61 ice sky, and no probability of getting southward this year by tliat route, in time to pass through to JJohring's Strait. I was reluctantly beating to the northward all the forenoon against a northerly wind and in a close sen, iind by noon we were again off Cajie Granite, iindi)ig a wonderful change^ in the appearance of tlie land. ^Vhen we passed down the strait a week before we could see scarcely a vestige of snow, except upon the higher hinds iu the interior, but now even down to high-water mark, the land was so white as to a})i)ear like ice through the mist. By 5 r.M. we began to see ice in the north-west, and so furling square sails, and steaming (.'asily with fore-and-aft canvas, with the wind N.W. to W.N.^V., we gradually drew up to Limestone Island, but a change now occurred; the wind began to blow in heavy gusts, with dense showers of snow, between which we could just catch a view of a solid pack to the westward, and of Limestone Island to the 'S.Vj. We passed close round Limestone Ishind, the cliffs towering over us through the snow, and the pack being scarcely half a mile to westward. The barometer fell rapidly to 29.50, and at the same time the temperature fell to 24° as we brought the pack to windward of us. I could just distinguish at intervals what appeared to be a sort of land water, about a mile wide, and I determined to run a race with the pack, and try to pass Cape liennell before it impinged completely on the land. This was our only chance of getting out of the strait, for had we hesitated, or stood back to the south-west, we should certainly have been shut in for the winter. A\'o therefore pressed on into the gloom of the fast increasing darkness, and experienced a dreadful night, the wind in- creasing to a gale I'roni the N.W. \\ith dense sleet, hail, and snow showers in blinding drifts. To stop was impossible, for the pack, which, was to windward, and seemed to be composed of enormous floes, unbroken for miles, was evidently coming 1^ 02 A NARROW ESCAPE BETWEEN LAND AND ICK, ii ^1 It i II i;i ill on the land, whilst on the other hand we constantly found streams of ice already jammed in the shore, the points extending out almost to the main pack, Throug-h this ice, or rathe land water, of the Avidth of 1^ mile, we threaded our way in the darhness, the white glare of the pack on the one hand, and the gleam of the snow-clad land on the otlier, being our only guides; com2)ass we had none, and once only during the night a solitary star shone out for about ten minutes, giving the helmsman a direction for steering. We were on several occasions so close to the land that I thought wo must go ashore, as we had really no guide during the snow S(|ualls, and in the intervals wo were frequently obliged to steer by the land astern, and it was somewhat ridiculous to see the helmsman facing aft at the wheel. As the wind increased, and came over the pack, the temperatui-e fell to 18^ Tahr., and the spray froze over the ship. By midnight our decks were full of snow, which whirled up in blinding- drifts, from the eddy round the sails. AVe could from time to time judge our position along the coast by the excellent descriptions by Sir James Ross and M'Clintock of their winter journey. Thus, at 9 p.m., we passed a deep fissure or gorge, separating the limestone from the red sandstone, and which we had noticed when jiassing the previous week. Wo continued on, the wind and snow increasing, and the pack evidently closing in, until 3 a.m., when we suddenly observed tlie ice to trend north and south right across our path. I immediately hove -about, just clearing the solid floe ; at the same time a high, precipitous cliff showed out over us, presenting a most ghastly and horrible appearance, with a fringe of ice at the foot, and the liorizontal strata appearing like huge bars of some gigantic iron cage, and perfectly black in contrast with the snowy face. I could only see the summit, the strata, and the foot. It was a skeleton of the land, and we appeared to be right within its SAFE IN TIIH MIDDLE OF BAnROW STRAIT. C3 I g'l-a^p. We saw this apparition for a low moinonts only ; running aloft, I saw from the topsail-yard that wo wore al)so- Intely stopped and liennnod in a pool of water, with no egress, and close under the cliffs, with the pack apiiroaching. In a moment all was darkness ah, Hnding that it was not so solid as it at first appeared. We were again in the open sea, and, as I expected, our chief danger ended at Ca}»e liennell. On getting through we appeared to lose all sight of ice ahead, and suddenly found ourselves in a rolling sea, covered, however, for at least 4 miles with young ice, or rather sludge, which acted like oil on the waters, and was so plastic ns to take all the undulations of the sea. Running on before the gale, we sighted Leopold Island in an interval of clear weather, but lost it again in a few- minutes. At eleven we saw a heavy pack of ice to the south- east and east of us, so we hauled out to the northward to clear, and getting under two close-reefed topsails and fore-and-aft canvas, we banked the fires, to give the engineei's a rest. The barometer now fell to 29 . 40, in the continued heavy snow- drift. We hove-to, only being able to see a few yards, and a high sea running, with a fresh gale N.W. Land appeared from Beechey Island, and 20 miles to the east on the north shore, and Leopold Island on the south, and we were evi- dently in a good position in the middle of the straits. T (14 RETURN THROUGH LANCASTER SOUND. ClIAriER XII •31 I" if f\ 1 a SECOND VISIT TO THE CARY ISLANDS. On September 7 we got out of Lancaster >>oun(l, and passed Cape Horsburgli, having for forty-eight hours been scudding under close-reefed topsails, in a heavy gale from tlie N.W., with a dense snowdrift, and the barometer down to 29.40. It was 22° Fahr., and bitterly cold, and the waves froze as they waslied up our sides. We caught occasional glimpses of the north land, which guided us, for we could scarcely see at any time more than a mile from the ship, and we had neither sun, moon, stars, nor available compass, for the violent rolling of the ship caused our binnacle compasses, with their weak horizontal force, to spin round continually. Anxiously I watched our approach to Cape Bullen, for there, on the 22nd of August, we saw that the pack, which arrested us off Cape Warrender, extended quite across the straits. We then calculated that at least 50 miles east and west were entirely blocked, and it was only by working through narrow leads into the shore and the mouth of Admiralty Inlet that we succeeded in getting through. Now all was clear water, and by 9 p.m. on the 6th we had approached Cape Warrender, finding our- selves about half a mile from the glacier, a little to the west end of the cape, and .saw some heavy pieces of ice and many bergs, apparently aground, and experienced also a strong current running to the westward, causing the sea to break in a formidable manner, and in tlui gale that was blowing at the time the top of this breaking sea frequently came over our quarters and taffrail. A FAVOURITE PIG. Cf) Curiously euougli, in scudding- past Cape Bullcn, we suddenly observed under tlie lee bow, or S.E. of us, what appeared to be a pointed roek, about 10 feet above the water, but which proved to be only a piece of earth-stained ice. Tills bears upon the rooks which appear on the Admiralty Chart in Lancaster Sound, on the authority' of Captain Adams, which I do not in the least believe to exist. The state and appearance of our poor ' Pandora,' as we emerged from Lancaster Sound was very extraordinary. We had been driving under close-reefed sails since escaping from the pack off Cape Eennell, and the sea, which constantly dashed against our sid(.'S, freezing as it rose, had covered our ship on the port side with a solid mass of ice from the doubling up to the rail, whilst the bows, from tlie figure-head to the anchor, were all frozen into a solid mass, and looking over the stern a fringe of enormous icicles hung down to the water's level. It was now my intention to endeavour to reach the Gary Islands, and possibly Littleton Island, in order if possible to obtain news of the (Tovernmcnt ships. " At Ivitot our sailors bought a pig, which was petted to tlie last degree, and so jealous were they of his rights that the dogs were driven in all directions that poor Dennis, as they christened the pig, might not be disturbed. The dogs made several attempts to attack this ftivoured animal, but a constant look-out, such as one could never ex- pect for any ice, rock, or land from any seaman on board, was kept, and the dogs w(?re driven off at the moment when victory seemed certain. Pea-soup, broken biscuits, and slops of all sorts were given to the dainty animal, whereas it a dog attempted to ask for a share of the remains of the sailors' dinners he was scouted with derision. In fact, the pig was the pet of the ship, and the only thing worth navigating the Arctic Seas for. Finding that he was uncomfortable under F GO THE ' PANDORA ' COVERED WITH ICE, I* il 3" tlie t<)i)gall;int forecastle, and liable to be disturbed by the chain running out when anchoring, or the water coming in at the hawse-pipe when at sea, a snug cask was found for him, and he was housed in with canvas and straw under the bows of the long-boat. Never, I should think, had any other pig- such comforts siiowered on him. But now came a change. Our decks became full of snow, and everything froze. It was necessary to clean away the ice and dirt from IMr. Pig's sty as well as from the other parts of the shij), and to do this in- volved an amount of scraping which was not agreeable to his former friends, and with the decision and readiness in meeting difficulties for which the British seaman is so pre-eminent, the pig was condemned to death without remorse or apology. In fact, from that moment he was a nuisance, and only fit to be killed and eaten : his throat was cut by his dearest friends, and he Avas eaten (September 7) for dinner, having died only at 10 A.M. Such are the caprices of the true British tar ; but I must add that jMr. Pig's former owner sent an excellent joint to the wardroom, which was much appreciated." (Sept. 8-9.) We continued in our effort to reach the Gary Islands, to ascertain if by chance the ' Alert ' and ' Discovery ' could possibly have called there after our leav- ing their letters on the 18th ultimo. I considered that after the lOtli of this month the navigation of these seas would become a race against time, but I was not prepared for the violent N.N.W. gale which we had experienced during the last forty-eight hours. It had blown without ceasing, with a high breaking sea, and the spray drifting across the ship had frozen over all. We were one mass of ice. Our bow- sprit, figure-head, and anchors were all cemented together, and both sides, from the water-line to the rail, were covered with a shield of ice 2 inches thick. On deck we had a mix- ture of sludge, ice, and snow, which required the whole attention of the watch to clear oif. We had been standing to A SECOND VISIT TO THE GARY ISLANDS. 67 by the g ill at >r liiiu, e bows ler pig ■bange. It was g's sty tbis in- } to bis leeting minent, pology. y fit to t'rieuds, ed only ar ; but scelleut icb tbe rt ' and ur leav- lat after ls w^ould . for tbe •ing tbe ;, witb a be sbip >ur bow- ;ogether, covered i a mix- le wbole nding to tbe N.E, and E.N.E. under close-reefed canvas, not baving used our steam since i)assing Cape Rennell. Tbe sea ran up in great beaps, and occasionally broke on board, and our prospect of getting nortbward appeared bopeless until tbis evening, wbeii tbe gale moderated, and we got up steam, and proceeded towards tbe Cary Islands, wliicb werc^ about 45 miles distant. At dusk we could just see Wolstenbolme Island to the N.E., appearing like an elong.ited cone, and as a white shadow in tbe distance. We saw no signs of life, save a few mullemokkes, who shared the discomfoits of tbe gale with us, and followed in our wake. The barometer, which had fallen to 29.40, was now rising, and the sea going down. I resolved to try to land on tbe island, and re-exainine the cairn ; but if tbis proved impracticable I determined to bear up for England, as nothing more could be done that season. The temperature averaged 23-' to IS'' Fahr. during the last forty-eight hours. It snowed nearly all night, but cleared over the eastern land about 6 a.m. I could distinguish ^^'ol- stenholme Island in the E.S.E., and the land about Cape Parry and Booth Sound in the N.E. (Sept. 10.) To seaward all was dark. We were sur- rounded with icebergs of every conceivable size and shape, and tbe late gales appeared to have made great havoc amongst them, there being quantities of broken pieces in the water. Passing through one of these patches of broken ice, I took the opportunity to get a quantity on board, as we were quite out of fresh water, the last, which we pumped in I'rom tbe floe, having proved to be brackish. Feeling confident of our position, and that we were close to the Cary Islands, although we could not see a mile to the westward, I hove-to until A.M., when, the mist having lifted, I could see the S.E. Cary Island, distant about 8 miles, bearing N.W. Having determined to search all the islands of the group, so that there could be no cbanc(.' of missing Ctqjtain Nares* F 2 k ' 'I i '! 68 LETTERS or THE AECTIC EXPEDITION DISCOVERED. record, if he had left oi.e, I stood close alongside the S.E. island, and in passing saw a cairn. I did not at first attach much importance to this discovery, Captain Nares having said that his record would be on the N.W. island ; but having so thoroughly searched tlie latter in August, I deter-' mined, if tlie weather permitted, to go through the entire group. Having rounded-to close under the northern side of the island, I dispatched a boat's crew, in charge of Lil- lingston, Beynan, and Toms, to examine the cairn. They landed witli some difficulty, ascended tlirough the deep snow to a height of 050 feet, and hastening on board, delivered to me the record case, containing letters, and an account of the proceedings of the 'Alert ' and * Discovery.' We were thus rewarded for all the hard work of the last few days, and for the risk in proceeding nortiiward at this late season ; and we had the satisfaction of bringing home news of the Govern- ment ships, which would be most welcome to the public and to the friends of all the members of the expedition.^ Had we not returned this winter, or gone home with a report that nothing was known of the ships at these islands, con- siderable anxiety would probably have been felt. It was, • The Arctic Expedition, aa has been stated already, sailed from Upernivik at 8 A.M. on the 22nd of July, 1875, and sliiiped a course due west, intending to make a dash through the middle pack instead of creeping round the land ice in Melville Bay. At 1 a.m. on the 2:ird the pack edge was siglited, and the two vessels were at once pushed into it. The ice was very loose, not more than 12 inches thick, and with lanes of water in all directions. At 11 a.m. on Sunday, the 25th of July, the ' Alert ' and ' Discovery ' got clear of the pack and entered the " North Water" of Baffin's Bay, having been only thirty-four hours in the ice, and seventy hours in going from Upernivik to Cape York, The ' Discovery ' then went inshore to communicate with the natives at Cape York, and endeavour to engage a brother-in-law of Hans as second dog- driver. The ' Alert ' proceeded to the Gary group, and reached the S.E. island at midnight on the 26th of July. Records and letters, as well as the depot and a boat, were landed, and a cairn erected. The expedition then proceeded to Smith Sound, with the brightest prospect of an open sea, and of being able to reach a high northern latitude in the aeason of 1875. NOTICE LEFT IN THEIR PLACE, 69 liowever, by the merest chance that the cairn was seen, as I little expected to find anything on the S.E. island. A notice was left in Captain Nares' cairn to the effect that wo had lemoved his record and the letters for Eiighmd, and explaining our second visit to the Gary Islands, and wliere he would find the letters which we deposited on the N.W. island in August. The boat only just returned in time, for almost before she was hoisted up, a blinding snowstorm came up from the southward, during which we could not see a cable's length from tlie ship. Such are the dangers of cruising in these seas at this late season ; it is absolutely unsafe to send a boat away unless the ship is securely anchored ; the changes are so sudden and severe that it is impossible to depend upon landing upon any exposed shore, or on again reaching the ship. I was only too thankful to see my boat's crew safely on board again on so awful a day. 70 ICE AHOUT CAPE YORK. \ i: CHArXEK XIII. i^i M 'k\ I f- I li THE VOYAGE HOME. The noxt day (Sept. 11) the sky cleaved and the wind backed round to tlie N.W., and continued all day light witli fine clear weather. We were now steering towards the S.E., and by night saw Cape Dudley Digges about 10 miles distant ; the wind fn^shening to a gale, with a high following sea, which froze as it lajjped our siiles. Shortly after midnight (Sept. 12) we passed through a quantity of ice lying off Cape York, liaving previously gone through a complete chain of bergs, apparently aground, and reaching out from the land about the conical rock to 20 miles seaward in a 8.W. direction. The storm was too heavy to think of sounding. I felt that we were going over a bank, but the size of the bergs was quite sufficient evidence that we had plenty of water, although the sea broke heavily over our quarters. It is curious how this ice api)ears to hang about Cape York, and I cannot help thinking that there must be N.W. an eddy current setting round out of 3Ielville Bay, constantly bringing up the ice which hangs about the glaciers and the land there, to the vicinity of Cape York ; otherwise, in such a gale as we had experienced, it must soon have scattered to the S.E. By 4 a.m. it was almost daylight, and we were greatly relieved on finding that no ice was visible to the south or S.W., save a few large bergs. The gale diminished towards evening, and by six o'clock, after Divine Service, we got up steam and proceeded slowly through the night, with light variable winds. At noon this day our position by ■1 It FROM CAPE YORK TO SVARTE HUK. 71 observation was 75^ 2' N., (15^ 25' W. Temperature 24^ to 25^ Fahrenheit. The barometer rose (.Sept. lo) and we Imd overcast weatlier with light cast and S.l"]. winds. We had niiid;'. sinro yes- tenhiy, about 78 mihjs in a S.S.M dir<'ction ; and by noun could just distinguish the hind about A\'ilcox Head and the Devil's Tiuimb. A liigh swell commtMieed Jrom the south- ward, followed by a gale from the 8.E. by E. to S.E., com- pelling us to heave-to under low sail. Tiie night was intensely dark, sleet fell in sliowers, and everything seemed damp and miserable. We could only hope that we were well off the middle ice. The siiip plunged bows under, but was quite buoyant and lively since having been light and I believe no ship ever will do so. " The recent voyage of the ' Pandora ' is simi)ly a lepetition of the experiment so often made unsuccessfully to cross this barrier. The ' Pandora' found no difficulty, having readied Lancaster Sound, in pushing on to Beeehey Island, and afterwards in making her way down Peel Sound (Franklin Chr^mfd), along the very route traversed by the unfortunate ' Erebus and ' Torvor,' but as soon as she had reached La Roquette Island, at the western entrance of Bellot Strait, she met the ice-barrier 25 feet thick and 50 miles wide. If the ' Pandora ' had ventured into this barrier, she would have shared tho fate of the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror,' but she would not have made the North-West Passage. " Before the ' Alert ' and ' Discovery ' sailed in this year I wrote s(5 THE TI1»AL UAIiUlEU. to ('iiittain Nurcs, giving liiiu my nasoiis for tliiukiiig that Ik would iiiid the; tidal ifu-banici" after ])assiiig through Smith Souiitl at tluH isido (»f the North I'cdo, and I instrui'ted Bovoral officers of the expedition in a ntethod of telling ([uickly whether the ships are in tho Atlantic tide or in the Paeilic tide. " If my opinion should turn out to bo correct, tho wisest course tho ships could adt>[)t after meeting the tidal ice-barrier would bo to keep well to the southward of it, and trust tho entire cliances of the expedition to sledge travelling, by means of which it would bo probably au easy matter to reach tho North Pole. " I am, Sir, yours faithfully, " Samuel Hauguton. " Trinity Collki;!;, Diiilin, .Xov. 1." To the Editor of the ' Times: "Sjh, — Will you allow mc to make the following remarks i fortunate than myself may prove the North-Wcst Passage to ho open for at least a short season in most years. " I was on my late voyage fully alive to the great risk to whieli Professor ITanglitou alludes of entering the pack which we met. But we found it quite impossihlo to do so, and wherever we at- tempted it tin impenetrable lino of ice, without the slightest lane of water, presented itself to our view. And I quite agree with him that it would havo been a very false mauanivre to have allowed our ship to bo beset in such a position, and thus to have probably ended our voyage in a disaster. " I am, Sir, " Your very obedient servant, " Allen Young, *' Commander Arctic ship ' Pandora.' " 1, St. James's Street, S.W., iNor. 4." 0. Letter from Sir Leopold M'Clintock, to Mr. Gordon Bennett, dated Nov. 3, 1875. " PORTSMOVTH, EXGLAND, Nov. IJ. " Dear Sm,— You call for my ideas upon the subject of Allen Young's recent voyage into Peel Strait, and you call for it as being yourself deeply interested in Arctic exploration and in all matters relating to the practicability of the North-West Passage. I can have no sort of hesitation in complying with your wish. « Youn« was with me in the ' Fox ' when we attempted to pass down Peer Strait, in August, 1858. We were stopped by fixed ice after a run down it of only 25 miles. Without wasting time m waiting there wo attempted to pass through Bellot Strait, and 88 PRACTICABILITY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. I r although we succeeded in this, yet our further progress was stopped by fixed ice across its western outlet. You will remember that my object was to reach King William's Island. From my position, at this western outlet of Bcllot Strait, I could see that all to the north, as far as the horizon, was covered with unbroken ice, while all to the south was v/ater, with the exception of the belt of fixed ice, some three or four miles wide, vhich so effectually barred my way. " Subsequent sledging exploration to the Great Fish Eivcr, and all round King William's Island, convinced me that we actually saw in that narrow barrier of ice the ouly impediment to our progress to and beyond King William's Island. It also convinced me that Franklin's ships passed down Peel Strait, thus proving that seasons do occur when it is navigable. " And now, to sum up. We know of one year (Franklin's) when Peel Strait was navigable ; of another year (M'Clintock's) when it was not navigable ; and of a third year (Allen Young's) when it was partially navigable. In my opinion, this strait, together w;ith its southern continuation, is probably navigable once in four or five years ; and if a steamer could then make lier way through it before the close of the month of August, she would be able co complete the passage from the one ocean to the other before the navigable season was over. " Hero let mo refer you to my narrative of the voyage of the * Fox' (later edition, pp. 265-7) for my own opinions, as they were written down at the time. " Young's attempt to accomplish the North-West Passage was as bold and skilful a one as was ever made. He persevered, not only after all hope seemed extinguished, but imtil further per- severance would have rendered his retreat impossible ; ard here at the most critical moment c T his voyage, I consider that he exer- cised the soundest judgment and discretion in effecting his escape. Had his attempt been successful he would not only have accom- plished the North-Wcst Passage, but would also have achieved another object which he had in view —namely, that of searching the shores of King William's Island, at the only season when they are free from snow, for further relics of Sir John Franklin's expe- dition, which perished there in 1848. " But, although bafiled in the main objects of his voyage, other important and useful work remained for him to do, and well he has SUCCESS OF THE ' PANDORA. 89 (louo it. Ho Uas brouglit us iutcUigcnce of our Arcti-^ Expoclitiou of very great interest. By it we know tliat tlicy 1)> 1 Airniounted all the difficulties of Baffin's Bay navigation, had crossed the dreadful Melville Bay with hardly a check, a that us early as duly 26 they were witliin one hundred milch .i Snvxth Sound, where their work of exploration was to begin, and that they were favoured with an unusually good season. " But for Allen Young, in the ' Pandora,' this good news could not have reached us for another year at the least. The country has been spared a year's doubts and misgivings ; and I trust that Mr. Young has received from othcial quarters an acknowledgment eonnu usurate with the great public service ho has thus rendered at so much personal hazard and cost. " I remain, dear Sir, " I'aithfully yours, "F, L. M'Clintook." D. Letteii from ViOE-AoMiaAii Siii Eichabd Collinson to Miss CUACKOFT. '' October iWi, 187."). •• Mv uEAii Miss CiiACROFT,— I oncloso Young's letters to M'Clin- t