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Les diagrammes suivants lllustrent la mAthode. \ t s 3 32X i t , i:--'# 3 4 s 6 "mm- w^^ \% Jnhabiltni^- Uie Jnlaiut parh o; ' .\i'r//> . Iiitiiir,! fnl>iihihi)i>- tbr Srn-Citist.f cf' J.iihniiior iiilil /hivi-f's Slriiif jtl'M^i (^Mir Mi- nflA 1. I It.nu^' i-" I'l/M.'/iM tr .TMmmm HI fo *lBia VOYAGE or HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ROSAMOND TO NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE SOUTHERN COAST ilF LABRADOR OF WHICH COUNTHIES KO ACCOUNT HAS BEEN PUBLISHED BY ANY BRITISH TRAVELLER SINCE THE REIGN OF QUEEN ELIZABETH. BY LIEUT. EDWARD CHAPPELL, R.N. AUTHOR OF A " VOYAGE TO IIUDSOT^'S BAY.' LONDON: PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN, LUDGATE STREET: By R. Watts, Crown Court, Temple Bar. 181S. * ?f>i^r f. J- lie j • i- 020366 TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE, FIRST LORD OF THE ADMIRALTY, I Mr LORD, In presuming to dedicate this small volume to your Lordship, I sincerely trust that I shall not risk incurring your Lordship's disapprobation. From whom can a jVaval writer hope for protection, if not from the Noble Per- sonage who has conferred so many benefits upon his Profession ? To whom can a young Sailor look for support, if not to him who possesses such strong hereditary and personal claims to be denominated *' the seaman's friend!' I have the honour to subscribe myself, MY LORD, Your Lordship's Very obedient, humble servant, EDWARD CHAPPELL. ( i ( CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. P. i — xix. CHAP. I. p. 1 — 32. rORTSMOUTII. TO ST.JOnN's, THE CAPITAL OF NEWFOUNDLAND. r^e Rosamond sails from Vonm^oxl[h — Cove of Cork— Country amuml Cork—Hwa- Lcc— Country. Scats— Citi/ of Cork— Manly ke— Irish IIos[ntality— Departure from Cork —Spike h/and—Hurricane~lce-Berg— Cruelty to Halliliuts— Cr//j(.' Race— Overturn of an lce-Ii(^rg— Spout —Cape Droylc— Broyle Bay— Catholic Priest— Drift he *^Anchor at St, John's. CHAP. II. 33—58. ST. JOHN'S, CAPITAL OF NEWFOUNDLAND. Discovery o/ Newrountllancl-r«A-.« possession of ly Englan^ —Province of Avalon settled— Entirely ceded to Great Jint^\n-Entrance to St. John's Harbour- Fortifications- havaUrsenat-Fuh Stages-Town of St, JohnS-Govern- ment-Sir Richard Kcat,-Judicaiure-Population-Stai, of Society— Climate. CONTENTS. CHAP. III. 59—09. FROM ST. JOHN'S, TO ST. GEORGE'S BAY. Departurefrom St. John's — Cape Pine— Pliicentia — St. Pierre and Miquelon — Fogs — Cape Breton — Cape Ray — Irish Fisherman — Anchor at St. George's Bay — Troul — Dia- logue with an Indian — Main River — Indian Village— Micmacs — Europeans — Entire Population of St. George's Bay — boat-lax — Sail from St. George's Bay. CHAP. IV. 90—112. FROM ST. GEORGE'S BAY, IN NEWFOUNDLAND, TO L'ANSE-A-LOUP BAY, IN LABRADOR. Probable Formation of the Straits of Bei.le-isle — Expedi- tion of Richfery — Narrow Escape — Green Island — Bradore Bay — L'Anse le Blanc — Anchor at Forteau — Esquimaux, or Fishing Indians — Mountaineer, or Hunting Indians — Forteau Bay — Europeans of Forteau — Admiral of the Fishery — Sail from Forteau — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup. CHAP. V. 113—146. L'ANSE A LOUP. Le Petit Nord — L'Anse i Loup — Conflagration — Author leaves his Ship — Departure of the Rosamond — System of Bank-flshing, from Raynal — Shore-fishery — Method of curing Cod — Qualities of Dried Cod — The Capelin — Scenery of Labrador — Berries — Birds — Animals — Fishes ^-Musquitos. CONTENTS. CHAP. VI. 147—166. FROM L'ANSE A LOUP TO PORT SAUNDERS. Return of the Rosamond — Cruhe — Bonne Bay — Anchor at L'Anse k Loup-^Mosses-^Sailfrom L'Anse k Loup— 7c«- Bergs—BeWc'ulc—Capc Cbar\cs— Salmon Fishertj—Cape Chiiteau — Geological Observations — Extraordinary Cur- rents — Ckace — Anchor at L'Anse ^ Loup — Sail from thence — Anchor at Port Saunders. CHAP. VH. I6G-18T. PORT SAUNDERS. Ingornaclioix Bay— Port Saunders— Solitude of the Forests — Red Indians of Newfoundland, the Aborigines of the Country — Attempts to civilize the Red Indians. CHAP. VHI. 188— 20G. FROM PORT SAUNDERS TO ST. JOHN'S. Sail from Port SaunAcra— Anchor at L'Anse k Loup— Account of an Esquimaux Tribe-Horrid Sacrifice— Story of a Canadian Lady— Seal-fishery— Final departure from Labrador— Nautical Observations— Mount Joli— Anti- costi— Anchor at St. John's. CONTENTS. CHAP. IX. 207-239.. FROM ST. JOHN'S, TO CAPELIN BAY, AND BAY OF BULLS. Slate of the Capital — Vigilance of the Governor — Shipwreck of his Majesty $ Ship Tweed — .Sail from St. John's— Anchor at Capolin Bay — Distress of the Irish Emigrants — Excursion from Capelin Bay to Ferryhind — Surrogate Court — First Settlement of Fcrryland — Present Slate qf Ferryland — Sail from Capelin Bay — Anchor at Bay of Pulls — J)escriplioH of the place — Return to St. John'd. CHAP. }^. 240— 2G(). FROM ST. JOHNS TO ENGLAND. Anxiety of the Crew — Preparations for sailing — Custom respecting Passengers — Desultory Observations — Sail from St. John'* — Part from the Admiral — Dispositions for Defence — Storm— 'Part from the Convoy — Colonel Grant —Finesse of a Frenchman — Prize— -Anchor at Spithead. APPENDIX. lit 261—270. Account of the Wreck of the Transport Harpooner, near Cape pine, in Newfoundland, on the 10th November, 1816. INTRODUCTION. JN EWFOUNDLAND was taken possession of by Great Britain during the reign of Elizabeth ; but no voyager has attempted to give a description of this island, since the time of James the First. The accounts of this country, in Gazetteers and other compilations of the same kind, are entirely taken from the Journals of those navigators who visited Newfoundland in company with Sir Humphrey Gilbert, about the yc^ar 1583. This celebrated seaman perished, with his whole crew, in his voyage home- wards ; 11 INTRODUCTION. wards ; and, subsequently, a narrative of the expedition, written by Captain HayeSj the second in command, was published. Hayes's narrative contains the only informa- tion, of which the public are in possession, concerning that valuable colony ; with the exception of a small tract, by Captain JVhitbourne, printed about the same time ; and both are now become rare. The reader will, perhaps, consider the narra- tive of Hayes^ as derived from Hakluyt, a curious addition to this volume. To Whitbournes book occasional reference will be made, in those instances where his ob- servations are connected with the inquiries made by the author, during the voyage of the Kosamond. " Abriefe relation of the Newfound lande, and the commodities thereof. *' That which we doe call the Neivfound- land, and the Frenchmen Bacalaos, is an Hand, INTftODUCTION. iu Xland, or rather (after the opinion of some) it consisteth of sundry Hands and broken lands, situate in the North regions of AmC' rica, vpon the gulfe and entrance of the great riuer called S. Laurence in Canada. Into the which, nauigation may be made both on the South and North side of this Hand. The land lyeth South and North, containing in length betweene three and 400 miles, accounting from Cape Race (which is in 46 degrees 25 minuts) vnto the Grand bay in 52 degrees of Septentrionall latitude. The Hand round about hath very many goodly bayes and harbors, safe ;oads for ships, the like not to be found in any part of the knowen world. 1 I 'I (c The common opinion that is had of intemperature and extreme cold that should be in this countrey, as of some part it may be verified, namely the North, where I grant it is more colde then in countries of Europe, ! 1 IV INTRODUCTION. \W : Europe, which are vnder tlie same eleuatioh : euen so it cannot stand with reason and nature of the clime, that the South parts should be so intemperate as the bruit hath gone. For as the same doe lie vnder the climats of iJ/'/Vow, Aniou, Poictou, m France, betweene 4(3 and 19 degrees, so can they not so much differ from the temperature of those countries: vnlesse vpon the out coast lying open vnto the Ocean and sharpe windes, it must in needc be subject to more colde, then further within the lande, where the raountaines are interposed, as walks and bulwarkes, to defend and to resist the asperitie and rigor of the sea and weather.-^ Some hold opinion, that the Newfound land might be the more suiect to cold, by how much it lyeth high and neere vnto the middle region. — I grant that not in New- foundland alone, but in Germany, Italy, and Afrihc, euen vnder the Equinoctiall line, the mountaines are extreme cold, and sfieldome uncouered IXTRODUGTrON". iincouered of snow, in their culme and highest tops, which commeth to passe by the same reason that they are extended towards the middle region : yet in the countries lying beneth them, it is found quite contrary. Euen so all hils hauing their discents, the ralleis also and low grounds must be likewise hot or tempe- rate, as the clime doeth giue in Newfound" land: though I am of opinion that the Sunnes reflection is much cooled, and cannot be so forcible in the Neivfoimd land nor nreneralh' throuHiout America, as in Europe or Afrikc : by how much the Snnne in his diurnal 1 course from Ea'^f to West, passeth ouer (for the most part) dry land and sandy countries, before he arriueth at the West of Europe or Afrike, whereby his motion increaseth heate, with little or no qualification by moyst vapours. Where, on the contrarie, he passeth from Europe and Afrike vnto America ouer the A Ocean, I, 1 m VI INTRODUCTION'. I ! 1 " I :; :l. M![ Ocean, from whence it draweth and carieth with him abundance of moyst vapours, which doe cjualifie and infeeble greatly the sunne's rcuerberation vpon this countrey chiefly of Newfoundland, being so much to the Northivard. Neuerthelesse (as I sayd before) the cold cannot be so intollerable vnder the latitude of 46. 47 and 48. especiall within land, that it should be unhabitable, as some doe suppose, seeing also there are very many people more to the North by a great deale. And in these South parts there be certaine beastes. Ounces or Leopards, and birdes in like manner which in the Sommer we haue scene, not heard of in countries of extreme and vehe- ment coldnesse. Besides as in the monethes of June, July, August, and September, the heate is somewhat more then in England 2it those seasons : so men remaining vpon the South parts neere vnto Cape Rece, vntill after HoUandtide, haue not found tl:c cold so ,; I < INTRODUCTION. Vll SO extreme, nor much differing from the temperature of England. Those which haue arriued there after Nouember and De- cember haue found the snow exceeding deepe, whereat no maruaile, considering the ground vpon the coast, is rough and vneuen, and the snow is driuen into the places most declyning, as the like is to be scene with vs. The like depth of snow happily shall not be found within land vpon the playner countries, which also are defended by the mountaines, breaking off the violence of the winds and weather. But admitting ex- traordinary cold in those South parts, aboue that with us here : it cannot be so great as that in Stvedland, much less, in Muscouia or Russia; yet are the same countries very populous, and the rigor of cold is dis- pensed with by the commoditie of Stoues, warme clothing, meats and drinkes : all which neede not to be wanting in the New- foundland, if we had intent there to inhabite. A 2 " In m %n via INTRODUCTION. ^illSii "In the Sotith parts we found no inha- bitants, which by all hkeUhood haue abandoned those coastes, the same being so much frequented by Christians : But in the North are sauages altogether harmlesse. Touching the commodities of this countrie, seruing either for sustentation of inhabitants, or for maintenance of traffique, there are and may be made diuers : so and it seemeth Nature hath recompenced that only defect and incommoditie of some sharpe cold, by many benefits : viz. With incredible quantitie, and no lesse varietie of kindes of fish in the sea and fresh waters, as 2\outs, Salmons, and other fish to us vnknowen: Also Cod which alone draweth many nations thither, and is become the most famous fishing of the world. Abundance of whales, for which also is a very great trade in the bayes of Placentia, and the Grand Bay, where is made trane oiles of the ivhale. Herring, the largest that haue bene heard of. liiii^ INTRODUCTION. IX inha- haue being But in nlesse. untrie, )itants, ;ie are and it at only sharpe Tedible kindes Troiits, lowen : nations famoua nee of at trade Grand 3 ivhale. e heard of. of, and exceeding the alstrond herring of Norivay : but hitherto was neuer benefit taken of the ^lerring fishing. There are sundry other fish very deHcate, namely the Bonito, Lobsters, Tiirhut, with others infinite not sought after : Oysters hauing pearle but not orient in colour: I *^^ooke it by reason they were not gathered in season . " Concerning the inland commodities, as wel to be drawen from this land, as from the exceeding large countries adioyning : there is nothing which our East and Northerly countries of Europe doe yeelde, but the like also may be made in them as plentifully by time and Industrie : Namely, rosen, pitch, tarre, sope ashes, deel boord, wastes for ships, hides, furres, Jlaxe, hcmpe, corne, cables, cordage, linnen-cloth, mettals, and many more. All which the countries will aford, and the soyle is apt to yeelde, "The X INTRODUCTION- " The trees for the most in those South parts, are Ftrre trees. Pine and Cyprcsse, all yielding Gumme and Turpen- tine. Cherrie trees bearing fruit no bigger then a small pease. Also peare trees, but fruitlesse. Other trees of some sorts to us unknowen. " The soyle along the coast is not deepe of earth, bringing foorth abundantly peason small, yet good feeding for cattel. Roses, passing sweet, like vnto our muske roses in forme, raspases, a berry which we call Harts, good and holesome to eat. The grasse and herbe doth fat sheepe in very short space, proued by English marchants which haue caried sheepe thither for fresh victuall and had them raised exceeding fat in lesse than three weekes. Peason which our countreymen haue so wen in the time of May, haue come vp faire, and bene gathered in the beginning of August, of which INTRODUCTION. xi those and urpen- bigger s, but s to us ; deepe peason Roses, oses in ^e call . The n very rchants )r fresh ling fat which time of I bene ^tisf, of which which our Generall had a present accept- able for the rarenesse, being the first fruits coming vp by art and industrie, in that desolate and dishabited land. *' Lakes or pools of fresh water, both on the tops of mountaines and in the vallies. In which are said to be muskles not vnlike to haue pearle, which I had put in triall, if by mischance faHing vnto me, I had not bene letted from that and other good experiments I was minded to make. " Foide both of water and land in great plentie and diuersitie. All kind of grcene foiilc : Others as bigge as bustards, yet not the same. A great white foule called of some a Gaunt. •fl the subject, to which they refer ; inasmuch ai? it must be evident to every mariner, acquainted with those seas, that no attempt towards a Ncrth-east or North-west passage is Hkely to be attended with success, on the part of any Commander who shall adopt the method which Cook pursued. Great Britain, in her endeavours to accompUsh this desirable end, can only hope for a prosperous termination of the enterprise, by following a system of nautical tactics, which, although perhaps familiar to the Hudson s-Ba^ traders in the time when Cook lived, had never then been practised by any of our Uuval commanders. The professional Reader, after having perused the author's observations upon thr foregoing subject, will probably acquiesce in the imperious necessity of providing every ship destined for Northern Disco- veries with an Officer whose peculiar province m INTRODUCTION. XIX province should be that of an Ice Pilot ; a situation of the utmost responsibility; and for which, nothing but long actual expe- rience in the arduous service of Northern voyages can qualify any candidate. 'II mm P 'I i A VOYAGE, CHAP. I. PORTSMOUTH TO ST- JOHN'S, THE CAPITAL OF* NEWFOUNDLAND. The Rosamond sails from Portsmouth — Cove of Cork — Countiy around Cork — River Lee — Cotinlry-Seats —-City of Cork — Mardyke — Irish Hospitality — Depar- ture from Cork — Spike Island — Hurricane — Ice-Berg — Cruelty to HaUibuts — Cape Race — Overturn of an Ice-Berg — Spout — CopeBroyle — BroyleUa^ — Catholic Priest — Drift Ice — Anchor at St. John's. It was early in the month oi February t 1813, that His Majesty's ship, Rosamoxd^ commanded by Captain Donald Camphellt lying at Spithcad, received orders from the Admiralty to repair forthwith to the Cove of C(w7f, in order to collect the first spring convoy, bound for Newfoandland, Halifax, and the River St. Lawrence. , B Accord- m 2 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND Accordingly, she left Portsmouth; and having sailed quickly down the British Channel, with a strong gale at east, passed between the dangerous Rocks of Scilly and the Land's End of England, during a very stormy night, and reached Cork on the evening of the sixth of Fe- bruary. Upon our arrival at this port, we were associated in the duty of collecting the convoy, and issuing the necessary instruc- tions, with his Majesty's ship Crescent^ Captain Quilliam : and although we had soon assembled a large fleet of merchant- men, yet we vv^ere detained at this place upwards of sixty days, by the prevalence of contrary winds. The Cove of Cork is undoubtedly one of the safest and finest harbours known : but it is attended with one disadvantage, which will AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 3 and ritish east, ts of rland, ached »f Fe- were ig the istruc- escenty re had chant- i place 2nce of one of n: but , which will will ever render it an inconvenient port for the assemblage of fleets destined for the New fForid; because an eastcr/j/ wind, which is favourable for their voyage across the Atlantic, renders it at the same time extremely difficult for a large convoy to beat out of the harbour. As a proof of this, it need only be mentioned, that we attempted three times to leave the place with the assistance of light easterly winds, and were as often compelled to relinquish the task as impracticable. The same difficulty does not retard the departure of single ships. It is well known to seamen, that, in large convoys, some few vessels will always lag in the rear, whatever exertion may be used to urge them forward : and in sailing with an easterly wind from the Cove of Cork, it is necessary to take advantage of the very first of the ebb ; therefore the loiterers of the fleet will inevitably be so late on the tide^. that the Commodore of If f ,1' . j m R 2 tl 10 4 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND the convoy must either proceed upon his voyage without those vessels, or return again into the harbour to rejoin them. It may perhaps be imagined, that enoug' has already been written respecting tie second city of Ireland, and that any re- marks respecting its present state would be entirely out of place here : yet it is impos- sible to avoid making a few observations upon the enchanting beauty of its sur- rounding scenery, the magnificent and stately mansions of the great, contrasted with the savage wildness which is so con- spicuous amidst the mud- walled cabins of the peasantry ; and, above all, upon the hospitality and social humour characteristic of the genuine Irish. Nothing can be more varied than the state of agriculture in the space that inter- venes between Cove and the city of Cork. In l|r i' (11 AND THF: COAST OF LABRADOR. 5 In one place, the count'-y is highly culti- vated; in another, deplorably neglected: and the same may be said of all the coun- try around Middlcton, Cloyne, Ballymi' curra, Passage, and Ballyhnchen. The beauty of the river between Cork and the port of Cove has excited the admi- ration of every stranger, and has been the theme of many a laboured description. Nothing in Nature can be more strikingly picturesque ; consequently, no power of language can convey any adequate idea of its romantic loveliness. To be viewed in all its varied features, it should be seen from the water : both sides of the river are then visible, profusely decorated with the most superb mansions, castles, villas, cottages, shrubberies, plantations, gardens, fields, and meadows. Beyond these, on either side, rise those majestic hills, between which the Lee rolls its pellucid waters; and VOYAGE TO NRU rOUVDLAND and at the upper end of this valley, appa- rent!}' seated upon the stream itself, stands the niagnilicent city of Cork.. From a distant view of the country-seats which are so plentifully scattered along the banks of this enchanting river, a stranger will be led to anticipate much gratification upon a nearer and more minute inspection : but a he approaches them f'l this purpose, the illusion is speedily dispelled. Although the grounds be laid out with as much taste and elegance as those of the same descrip- tion in England, vet there is such a want of neatness and order in mos*: of the gen- tlemen's mansions around Corh, that the effect of their really beautiful designs is thereby considerably diminished, and in many instances totally destroyed. Grass grown high and yellow, walks covered with dead leaves, shrubberies strewed with broken branches, and gardens overrun with weeds. ii AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. / weeds, are the objects that particularly attract attention, and exciti* irgret in view- ing these otherwise princely residences. In all general descriptions of this nature, there are, of course, many exceptions to be admitted. In no place, for example, can there be found a more exemplary display of regularity and order, than is visible in the beautiful domain of Castle Martyr, the magnificent residence of Lord Shannon. There is nothing, perhaps, in the city of Cork, that will so soon be noticed by a traveller, as the irregularity of the build- ings in the principal streets. A large and splendid jeweller's shop, three or four stories high, appears next door to the wretched tumble-down edifice of a soap and tallow-chandler. There are two good streets: the largest of which is broad, but ■ ■' iii-'i : n s VOV ACi 1. TO KEW 1 OU N D L A N D but crooked ; the other is narrow, and 6traij2;ht. In tlie ^reat market-place, or parade, there is an equestrian statue of one of our kings ; but it is a very dispropor- tionate piece of sculpture. f ! The number of Prott'stants and Catholics here may be considered as nearly equal ; and there are seven places of worship set apart for the use of each respectively. But the most noble object in the city of Cor^, and that which most excites the admiration of a stranger, is the Mardyhe Walk. The city itsei. stands upon an island, formed by two branches of the River Ijce; and from thence a long bank, or spit of land, extends above the city ; on each side of which the stream rolls its silver waters, among numberless little islands co- vered with the richest verdure. No place could have been better calculated for a public i AM) TIIF". COAST Of I.AIJUAnon. 9 public promenade than the bank in ques- tion. Nature had done much towards it; and Art has nobly completed the work. A beautiful double row of stately trees em- bellishes its sides, affording shade from the heat of the sun. At the town entrance, a fine pair of cast-iron gates have been erected. The other extremity is terminated by a romantic villa, belonging to a private gentleman. Entering this celebrated walk, the long vista of trees, arching over head, appears to have no end ; and erroneous notions are frequently formed as to its probable length. The author walked from one extremity of it to the other, and counied sixteen hundred paces. '^ii However well known the fact may be, that hospitality is a paramount virtue among the Irishy yet it would be unjust not to mention it in a particular manner, among the present remarks : as those only, who Mj'l "■^i'i 10 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND who have experienced the kindness of this people, can form an adequate idea of their extraordinary munificence, liberality, and of that suavity of manners which has ever served to distinguish and characterize the sons of Hibernia. A mere introduction to an Irish gentleman is here thought equi- valent to a letter of recommendation ; and an acquaintance with one family is the sure prelude to a familiar intercourse with the whole neighbourhood*. It was drawing towards the latter end of April before we quitted the Cove of Cork\ when, with a fleet of fifty sail in company, we took our departure. As * The author has, perhaps, been urged to say more upon this subject than he would otherwise have done, owing to his gratitude for the polite and benevolent atten- tions he experienced, when hi was almost • stranger in the country, in consequence of an acciilental introduction to the Rev. Robert Longfietd, of Castle Mary, near Cloynt, son of Colonel Longjield, M.P. for the City of Cork. AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 11 As the ship sailed out of harboiir, we could not avoid noticing the formidable appearance of Spike Island, the citadel of Cove. Immense sums have been expended in endeavours to render this fortress im- pregnable : but we were informed, that the works had been lately discontinued, owing to a discovery that the island itself is over- looked, or, to speak in a military phrase, commanded by the heights behind it. As Our voyage across the Atlantic pre- sented little worthy of observation. We arrived on the Great Bank of Newfoundland about the eighteenth of May ; when the Commodore of the convoy made a signal for the whole fleet to pass within hail. In pursuance of this order, every vessel crow^ded around the Crescent ; and at the same instant, there arose such a violent blast of wind, that we were all thrown into a state of the most imminent danger and ]& 12 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND and alarm : each ship dreading- to be dashed against another ; and, of course, all made sail to escape from the throng : but this necessary precaution proved to be the source of all the mischief that ensued ; for the wind suddenly shifting, blew with ter- rible fury from an opposite quarter, demo- lishing masts, yards, and rigging. Happily for us, we had remained with every sail clewed up, since the beginning of the tempest, and by this means we escaped any material injury. Shortly afterwards, we passed one of the convoy that was lying in a dismasted state, with part of her side beaten in, and her crew was perceived to be labouring hard at the pumps. It is remarkable that no lives were lost in our fleet upon this occasion ; although many of the ships were dismasted, and others lost their sails and yards in con- sequence of the sudden shifting of the hurricane. AXD THE COAST OK LABUADOU. 13 hurricane. Mention has been made of this tempest merely as a cauiion to other vessels which may hereafter happen to pursue the same route; since nothing can be a more common occurrence, or more dangerous, than such sudden gusts and shifts of wind upon the Banks ofNeirfound- land. Why they are peculiar to those immense heaps of sand, is perhaps a ques- tion not easily answered. Philosophical theories upon such abstruse subjects are often found to be both fallacious and ab- surd : and it is more incumbent upon a mariner to state facts, than to reason con- cerning matters in which he is full as likely to be tvrong as to be right. Imme- i i.\^ s * Columbus, the mighty genius who could first imagine and afterwards realize the existence of a J^ew JVorld was, notwithstanding, freciuently mistaken in his notions rcsspcct- ing the most ii'vial phaenomena. ♦* The violent swell and agitation of the waters on the coast of Triuidnd led him to conclude this to be the liighest part of the terraqueous glohe." Robertsons Hist, of America, Vol. I p. 331. Notewl ,;K; 14 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND Immediately after the hurricane had sub- sided, we descried the first beacon of a frozen coast, in a large mass of floating ice, which appeared like a vast rock of alabaster, upon our weather-beam , Few on board our ship had ever before seen an ice-berg: we gazed upon it, therefore, with mingled feel- ings of astonishment and awe. That which made it the more singular, was its perfect resemblance to the principal Pyramid of Dj'iza, near Cairo in Egypt, as we had seen that surprising monument of antiquity repre- sented in some old books of travels. Shortly after this, however, we began to lose the pleasure that was at first experienced in comparing these sublime works of Nature with corresponding specimens of Art; such as, pyramids, pillars, obelisks, temples, and tumuli : for the certainty of their being extremely dangerous iieighbours, during dark and stormy nights, entirely destroyed the ) ■J ■I fslli AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 15 i } ■ the gratification we might otherwise have felt, in viewing them. Upon the 19th of May, we tried for soundings, and found bottom with thirty- six fathoms of line. Conceiving this to be a convenient depth of water for fishing, we threw over hooks ; and in about a quarter of an hour, every mess in the ship was well supplied with an abundance of the finest cod-fish. Hallibiits, also, of the most enormous size, were frequently drawn to the surface of the water : but it was ex- ceedingly difiicult to get them on board j as they generally succeeded, by an apparently slight exertion of their ponderous strength, in breaking away from every means that could be devised for securing them. The fishermen of Newfoundland are much exasperated whenever an unfortunate /m//i6w/ happens to seize upon their baits : they are frequently '.tl M ].| •^1 i&.-rif:! 10 VOYAGE TO NRWP0UNrDLA.NT1 hi frequently known, in such cases, to wreak their vengeance on ^he poor fish, by thrusting a piece of wood through its gills, and in that condition turning it adrift upon the ocean. The efforts which are made by the tortured fish, to get its head beneath the water, afford a high source of amusement to the barbarous fishermen ; who have fa- cetiously styled this operation, the ** sprit- sail yarding of a hallibut.' ' f !•■ :ii m 'i ■■■ i*"/' ■■■■ iM About the 2 1st of May, we came in sight of Cape Race, the south-eastern ex- tremity of Newfoundland: and this first view of it led us to imagine that it would be impossible ever to approach within many leagues of our destined port. The whole line of coast, as far as the eye could reach, appeared encircled with an impenetrable zone of crystal. Indeed, this prodigious quantity of floating ice surrounded our convov from the wcstsouth-west to the south' •'fl,2; AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 17 south-east j^oint of the compass ; thus leaving only ten points, out of the thirty-two, open for an escape. It was through this space that Commodore Quilliam sailed away in ihe Crescent ; taking with him that part of the fleet destined for Nova Scotia, and leaving under our protection those vessels that were bound for St. Johris in New- foundland. Our little Rosamond being thus exalted into the situation of a Commodore's ship, we put her head towards the north-north- east, in hopes of finding some opening through which we might be able to pene- trate the formidable barrier of ice that opposed our passage : nor were we disap- pointed; for towards evening we perceived a place where the i'^e had loosened con- siderably, and through this channel the ships of our fleet butted their way. la iU m IS VOYAGE TO NEWPOUNT)LAND In tlie voyages published by those who lirst vibitcul this country, too httle notice has been taken of the dangers attending its navigation. In their eagerness to recom- mend A^d7c;/b//«c?/flm/ as an acquisition worthy of the British Empire, they have omitted, or shghtly passed over, those dreadful tem- pests, thick fogs, rocky shores, and ici/ perils, to which a seaman is exposed upon the coasts of this island*. Later writers have run into the other extreme ; and re- presented those dangers as more intimi- dating than ** the most formidable rampart erected by military art, the dreadful can- nonade of a besieged town, or the terrors of the most skilful and obstinate sea- fight (." It will hereafter be attempted to set m M * Hoc tilt.' \'o}'agt's of Sir Humphrey Gillert, and ol" Captain IFIiiliaurnc; and the letters from the first settlers. Captains Pou'cll and Jfj/itnc. t R'li/iKi/'^ Hist, of the East and JVest Indies, vol. VII. p. 20i. Book XVII. Land. 1783. m tj we vvhi( AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 10 who otice igits com- orthy itted, tem- id icy upon writers [id re- ntimi- impart I can- terrors e sea- )ted to set (, and of t settlers, vol. VII. set these matters in a true point of view, by relating all occurrences simply as they presented themselves to the author, with- out embellishment or concealment of any kind. On the twenty- third of May, a gale came on, attended by such a thick fog, that our fleet were entirely dispersed, and we were never afterwards able to collect them again together. The masters of those vessels v\ere, for the most part, old traders, who were well acquainted with the coast of Nexifoundland ; and the greater part of the convoy therefore succeeded in reaching the harbour of St. John's before the Rosa- mond. It was during the dreadful gale and in the thick fog above mentioned that we passed one of those lofty icc-bergft which are so numerous on these coasts. c 2 It '¥ g ,:.:--! 20 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND It was in this shape, and of an enormous size. The waves hroke their fury upon its sides, causing it to roll to and fro, with a noise that it would baffle any person to describe. Our horror and astonishment may be conceived, when, on a tremendous heave of the sea, it rolled completely over, with a crash that might have been heard at an immense distance. We trembled at the sight; for the Rosa- mond was not above four cables' length distant .i i eith< sea, kno^ in t •<»? AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 21 distant at the moment; and it was a mass of ice that would, by its contact, have crushed a first-rate ship of war, as easily as the foot of Goliath would have demolished a spider. The aspect of this ice-berg had now entirely changed ; and in its inverted state, it presented the following outline : ^ t.ii; broke to roll would horror , when, t rolled might istance. e Rosa^ length distant X r^'^ ) ^y^' J ^ The surface of the ice e2^hibited a most beautiful shining green hue, occasioned either by^its long continuance beneath the sea, or t9 that effect of contrast which is known to have such remarkable properties in the modification of colours. The gale having at length subsided, and some m MMi mm 22 VOYAGK TO NEWFOUND LAN I) some days elapsed since we lost sight of the land, we again attempted to reach the coast : but here another thick fog threw us into a state of the greatest per- plexity and uneasiness ; as we had rea- son to suppose, from our reckoning, that the shore could not be far distant. How- ever, the wind being light, and the sea smooth, we ventured to continue our rcest- erJy course ; until, upon listening atten- tively, Captain Vamphetl imagined that he could distinguish a low murmuring, like the sound produced by surge, when dash- ing against a distant reef of rocks. We thereupon immediately let fall the anchor : and this proved to have been a very wise precaution. The fog dispersing, we found ourselves near a dangerous part of the coast, c.'lled S/ioal-baij, situate a few miles to the southward of St, Johns. ■': ■■(. We had not before obtained so near a view of the h the threw per- 1 rea- r, that How- he sea ir icest- atten- hat he ig, like 1 dash- We inchor : rv wise c found of the w miles 1 AND THE COAST OP T.AnUADOU. 'i:\ y'lGW o{ yewfotmd hind ; therefore the whole crew were extremely earnest in their eon- templation of its naked roeks and frowning forests ; and as the mist slowly eleared away, every point of land bceame the sub- ject of tlieir scrutiny. Immediately opposite to the ship, appeared a remarkable natural curiosity, called the Spout, which is visible at a great distance from tlie shore. We had no opportunity ofexaiuining this pliirno- menon minutely; but could easily perceive that ihc sjwut'm question was occasioned by a column of water forcing itself through a fissure in the rock; and being impelled to an amazing height, it assumed the appearance of volcanic smoke. In this state it admirably answers the purpose of a land- mark, for those who are otherwise un- acquainted with the coast. ' 1 mi near a view When the fog was entirely dispersed, we discovered His Majesty's ships, Dryad and \¥l i 1t*i: 24 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND and Comus*, at anchor near the Rosa- mond. These ships had left Broyk Bay in the morning, with an intention of getting into St. Johns: but the quantity of floating ice rendering that port quite inaccessible, it M'-as proposed to return again to BroyleBay. Accordingly, we joined their company ; and towards evening the three ships came to anchor in that place. Cdpe Broylcy standing at the entrance of * This ship was afterwards destined to meet her fate upon the coast of Newfoundland. The following intelligence of lier wreck appeared in the Papers of December 11th, IGIC. " Torlay. — Arrived the schooner Plymouth, Captain Davis, of this port. By this vessel we learn the particulars of the loss of His Majesty's ship, Comus, in the Bay of 5/. Mary's, at midnight, on the 24'th of Oclober ; and the wonderful escape of the officers and men, in four small boats, after rowing from four in the morning till six in the evening, in search of a spot to land; then obliged to march back eighteen miles, to the wreck, in search of provisions, where they remained several hours before they could procure any: nor had they a change of clothes, or a bed to lie upon, before they reached Renews, eleven days after the aq- cident." '\ i i :||' 1 tjS-i : tJ-jlF *. «i PP' H?ii =■ : n n m ' :,: I Miii j! M '' r.l i i S!:*\ am It:.- AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 25 of the bay bearing the same name, is, perhaps, the most remaricable promontory on the whole eastern coast of Newfound- land. In appearance, it resembles an enormous saddle t ; and as it stands about thirty miles to the southward of the Capital, it is extremely useful, to determine the position of any vessel, upon her first obtaining sight of the island. The know- ledge of proper land- marks is of the utmost importance to mariners navigating the coast of Ncxvfouudland. The dense fogs that continually hover around the shores frequently render it impossible to obtain a sight of the sun for many days : so that the difficulty of ascertaining the exact latitude and position of a ship is here productive of much inconvenience and mischief. Broyle Bay IS a deep inlet: its entrance lies 'x^m ''A \ii-\ ill T See the annexed Sketch of Cape Broyle, taken by the author, trom the deck of the Rosamond. ■1 .1',; Jl ;?: i^ 26 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND lies at the foot of the Cape before men- tioned. The depth of water is sufficient for vessels of almost any size, and the harbour is sheltered from all winds. On steering into this place, great care ought to be taken, to keep close in with the southern shore of the channel ; as there is a dangerous sunken rock lying upon the north side of it, near Cape Brigus. There are not more than five or six families settled within this bay ; who, of course, obtain their livelihood by the curing of cod: and they afterwards carry the product of their labour to St. John's, where they dispose of it to the merchants, in ex- change for provisions and necessaries ; but they very seldom receive specie in return for their fish. From this it will appear evident, that those merchants, who reside constantly at St. John's, receive a double profit : the first arising from their foreign exports 'Li: AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 27 ! , eyports of salted cod; and the second, from the articles which they supply to the out-harbour* setders, in return for this commodity. It follows, therefore, as a natural consequence, that the principal mercantile men of this country, by mono- polizing almost the whole of the external and internal trade, are thereby enabled to amass the most splendid fortunes witli an inconceivable rapidity ; whilst the middling and lower classes of fishermen may toil from year to year, with patient and un- remitted industry, and yet find themselves, in their old age, many degrees worse off than when first they crossed the Atlantic, as wretched emigrants from their native country t. ■ ^^^ * All the ports of Newfoundland, except that of the Capital, St. Johns, are called Out-harbours. f The author is aware that he shall have occasion to resume this suhject in a subsitpient part of his Work: but he trusts that the Reader will make an allowance for any ^ee/n/wi,' repetition, which it is almost impossible to avoid, in the de- scription of a people who depend entirely upon the fishsries for the means of their existence. ' in I'l" »f ! ■ilr i :^' ■; 28 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND i '•[rii]] The lower order of fishermen in New- foundland, being principally Roman-Catholics from Ireland, maintain a little jolly priest of that persuasion ; who gains a precarious livelihood, by trudging on foot along the coast from one harbour to another, " To shrive the dying, bless the dead." We saw this personage, during our stay at Broyle: he was a short rotund man, who cer- tainly did not exhibit, in his own person, any outward appearance of having suffered either from severe penance or bodily mortification. ^ M i':! I :i 1 1 M In addition to the recommendation of its being a very secure anchorage, the shores of Broyle Br/y are covered with wood ; and a cataract of the clearest fresh water falls into the sea, from a precipice near the huts of the settlers. There is a small patch of cultivated land at the head of the bay. The 'V AND THE COAST OP : ' BRADOR. 29 The The sudden changing of the drift or low ice, upon the coasts of Nexvfoundland and Labrador, is very remarkable. We had entered Broyle Bay in the evening, through an open sea, entirely clear of obstruction as far as the eye could extend : but on the morning of the next day, the harbour was completely choked with ice, so as almost to render it possible to walk from the ship to the shore: and upon ascending the mast, we could perceive that the wide ocean itself was also one vast plain of broken fragments. To account for this singular phsenomenon, it ought to be observed, that there is a strong southerly current continually setting along the whole of the shores extending from Davis' Straits to Nova Scotia : therefore, upon the breaking up of the great Northern bays in the spring of the year, the low drift ice is carried towards the south with great velo- city, where it eventually disappears, in consequence 31 < - > fii .:i: = t;.; ; i: 30 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND consecjuence of being exposed to the heat of the sun. It is thus, in its progress from north to south, that the ice occasionally enters and blocks up the different bays and harbours along the coasts of Labrador and Newfound- land: but the inconvenience thereby caused to mariners is of a temporary nature ; as the floating mass, being easily affected by the slightest change of wind, frequently disappears in the course of a few hours, leaving the sea open and navigable as before. We were rather surprised to find that the fishermen at Broyle Bay demand almost as high a price for their salted cod as the same commodity generally obtains in England, This was quite a disappoint- ment to us, who had imagined that fish in Navfoundland must be, comparatively, 's cheap •'i AND THE COAST OP LABIIADOR. 31 heat cheap as coals at Nexvcastle: but we afterwards learned that the merchants of St. John's would gladly purchase salted cod at thirty-two shillings per qiiintat from the out-harhour fishermen, for which they could obtain forty or forty-six shillingo, either in Spain or Portugal. JUit it must not be understood, from this, that the thirty- two sliillings per quintal is actiiallij paid by the merchants of St. Johns to the oiit- harbour settlers: the Jish is merely valued at that price, and provisions to the amount are given in exchange. Having completed our stock of water and fuel, we sailed from Broylc lUiy ; in order, if possible, to get into St. Johns harbour. We made two or three ineffectual attempts, and experienced much thumping among the drift ice; but at length succeeded, about the loth of June, in entering the narrow mouth <^^ this capacious port. With some w I 32 VOYAGE TO NBVVPOUNDLAND some labour and difficulty, our ship was warped up into a proper situation, nearly opposite to the town ; where we moored her in safety. If 1. f.'';li:j I'iih Fluke, and Sailing llouie; ai they aro scon in all Ihf Ports of Neu/imndlnnd, CHAP. II. ST. JOHNS, CAPITAL OF NEWFOUNDLAND. Discovery 0/ Newfoundland — Taken possession of by the English — Province of AvuIdu settled — Entirely ceded to Great Britain — Entrance to St. John's tlarbcur — Fort ijlcat ions — Naval Arsenal — Fish Stages — Town of St. John's — Governm(nit — Sir Riehartl Koats — Judi- cature — Pofmlution — State of Society — Climate. 1 HE discovery of Ncafhundhind has, by some authors *, been ascribed to Juhn Cabot, a Fcne- * Carnplel/'s "Naval History of (ireut Britain," vol.1, p. i:4'l.. Raynal's " History of tliL" f.ast and l^cst Indies,"' vol Vn, \y rjl. Loud ITS'. L) ■ -1 ■ .1" !l ; .■Fill if Is i .*■ ''■^> ^i: 34 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND a Venetian navigator; and by others*, to Sebastian Cuhot, liis son, who was born at Bristol. Ill a >\ oik of tliis kind, it is not necessary to cMiter into a long discussion of their separate pretensions, particularly as the matter has already been handled by able writers I, to whom the curious Reader may be reterred tor more particular information. It can, however, be stateil with certainty, that this island was lirst seen in the year 1497, or MfjS, by an Emr/ish squadron, fitted out by llennj the Sevoith. In the reign of his successor, Henry the Eighth, the cod-Jish first became an article of com- merce ; and some small vessels sent from England, returned with a cargo of salt and dried cofl?t. From this time forward, the Banks * Humt& «* History of England;' vol. III. Chap. XXVI. p. 406. f Ellis's ^' Voya^ti to Iludsuji's Bay," pp. 4 — G. Campl-ell's «' Naval History of Grrat Brilain," vol. I. pp. 287—289. J Raynal's " History of the Easl and IFiist Indies, vol. VII. p. 192. Book XVII. Lond. 1783. s\ ewl hi w ill AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 35 i*, to irn at is not ion of rly as )y able ;r may lation. tainty, le year laclron, In the Eighth, 3f com- it from salt and rd, the Banks lap. XXVI. Camplell's . 287—289. ies, vol. VII. Banks of Nexvfoundland were annually visited by numbers of ships, from Spaiut France, Itali/, Portugal, and England. The fine harbours along the coast became the property of those who first entered them in the spring of the year, which was the cause of much mischief and confusion. The emulation and rivalship of the original fishermen were so great, that they contrived every possible means to retard and to injure their competitors, by breaking down the stages, and scattering the materials of them upon the waves §. To replace the damage sustained upon these occasions, the waste of young trees, and the number destroyed by stripping otfthe rind, was almost incredible; and it was thought necessary to put a stop to such ravages in future. Accordingly, in the year 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert sailed from $ Captain Uliitlourne'B «* Discourse and Discovery of m ' *i,( i .' Xetvfoxtndhnd." p. 23. D 2 l^ 1 I I.* 3(> VOYAGE TO NEWPOUNDLAXD from Pltpnoutli with a small squadron, and, after a tedious voyage, arrived at St, Johns in NciijoinnllamL There, in the presence of all his captains and officers, and in the name of EHzidjctli, Queen of Great Britain, he took possession of two hundred leagues of territory, extending in every direction from St. Johns. A turf and a rod were presented to him, in token of his right, as the Governor appointed by her Majesty's patent*, to rule over the newly-acquired country. Immediately after this event, Sir llumphrci/ framed three laws for the observance of the fishermen. Wy the Jirst, the form of religion was established ac- cording to the Liturgy of the Church of England : Secondly, it was made high- treason to plot against her Majesty's Govern- * The form of the Paltiiit granted by Qiioen Ei'ruilftli to Sir Hiiinpliicy Gilh'it nuiy be seen hi ILi'ii<'s *' Collection of Voyiiji;es and Travel.-!," vol. I. — from vvhenco, also, moot of the observations respecthig the Expedition of Sir //«m- pkrei/ have been selected by the author. t phupt Hum\ has r| glory to thj kniglj and annall AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 37 and, ohiis icnce I the Ligues ;ction were right, jcsty's quired event, or the e Jirsty ed ac- irch of high- Lijesty's lovern- IhMeth to Collection aljo, most ■ Sir Hum- Government ; and, Thirdly, it was ordained, that if any person should utter words of dishonour against her Majesty, he should suffer the loss of his ears ; or if the offender were a master of any vessel, his goods should become confiscate to the Crown. A pillar of wood was erected upon the shore, with the arms of England engraved thereon ; and the land by the sea- side was parcelled out into separate lots by Sir Humphrey^ , the proprietors gladly consenting to pay an annual tribute to the Governor for the same ; by which means they hoped to secure their stages and fish- flakes against the periodical ravages of their countrymen. This f In tlio French edition of Rni/nal's " Ilisloire Philnso- phh/uc," this celebrated Xavigator is styled tlie CluvnUer Humshrtk': and Justuiiiuiid, in his translation of that Work, has rendered this word Hut)is/tn'a, by Hampshire. Thus, the glory of having first secured the sovereignty of NvujoundUiJid to the i)V;/w/{ nation is likely to be taken from a patriotic knight who expended his whole fortune in the undertaking ; and given to a personage whose name is unknown in the annals of England. *i < '111 > 'II ' J ill .m\ fii '« i iii i.. 38 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND This Jgulc had bene- new regulation ficial effect on the Newfoundland trade : for we find in Whitbournes account*, that ia the year 1615 there were 250 English vessels employed upon the coasts of that island ; and that, according to the usual manner of manning ships in those days, not less than 5 000 seamen were en- gaged therein. Still, the English fisheries were eclipsed by those of foreign nations, who annually sent 4oo sail thither, to obtain cod-fish and oil'\\ and this induced many people in England to undertake the colonization of the country. Sir George Calvert, Secretary to King James the First, settled the province of Avalont, which was the name given to a sort of peninsula in Neufoundland formed by the deep bays of Trinity and Trepassjj \ and, from thence- forward, • IVhitbourne'B " Discourse and Discovery of Newfound- land," p. 12, f Ibid. p. 11. X Ibid. pp. 78, 79. (( it it 1 tiM ¥ > 44 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND SO fine an arsenal as Halifax upon the coast of America, yet Newfoundland, as an island, is not so open to the attacks of an enemy ; and it would be an excellent resort for our cruizers during the summer months, should we, by any mischance, be deprived of the former valuable acquisition. In considering this point, Bermuda has not been forgotten ; but the dangers mani- fest in the approach to that island will ever render its utility, as a naval depot, of pre- carious advantage to our fleets. The harbour of St. John s is most exposed to heavy gales from the north-iuest: as the wind from that point rushes with extreme violence through a valley to the left of the tOWL. On first entering the bays and ports of Netvfoundlandy the attentiv-^n of a stranger is mostly attracted by the remarkable appearance beii of AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 45 II appearance exlubited by the innumerable stages erected along the sea-side for the salting and drying of cod. The shores around the harbour of »S/. John's are entirely covered with them, and their construc- tion is particularly simple. Numerous supporters, exactly resembling Kentish hop-poles, are first fixed in the ground : over these is placed a horizontal plat- form of similar poles; and the whole is finally overspread with a covering of dry fern. This sort of structure is called, by the fishermen, a Fish Flake : but there are other stages, erected in a similar manner, although standing partly in the water, with a hut at their extremity, for the reception and salting of the cod, previous to its final removal to the Flakes, for the purpose of being dried in the sun. The Capital of Newfoundland consists of one very narrow street, extending entirely W I . ' t'li 1 !. 1' 'i ;l » ■ ;,f |, |1| H n 46 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND entirely along one side of the port. The houses are principally built of wood; and there are very few handsome or even good- looking edifices in the place. This street stands upon very irregular ground, and is not paved ; therefore, in wet weather, it is rendered almost impassable, by mud and filth. There are a great number of small public-houses, but scarcely one tolerable inn : the London Tavern, however, has a good billiard-room attached to it. Shops of all descriptions are very numerous ; but most commodities arc extravagantly dear, particularly meat, poultry, and vegetables, as the town receives all its supplies of those articles from Nova Scofia. The number of wharfs for lading ships is remarkable : almost every petty merchant, indeed, pos- sesses one of his own : and there is, besides these, a fine broad quay, called the Govern- ment Wharf, which is open for the accom- modation of the public. The gov| of AND THE COAST OF LARRADOR. 47 ' The Island of Newfound la ml is governed by a Vice-admiral of the Jhitish Navy, whose jurisdiction extends also over the coast of Labrador, from Cape Charles to Mount Joliy together with the small islands of St. Pierre and Mirjuelun on the south, and Antkosti in the mouth of the River St, Latrreuee. The Governor holds his situa- tion for three years; and ho is, during this time, Commander-in-chief of the nival force employed within the limits of his govern- ment. He usual! V resides in a fortress above the town of St. Johns, and returns to England for the winter months. During his absence, the chief power of the island is vested in the hands of tlic Military Com- mandant, who is styled the L'lcutcnant- Governor of Neufoundland . In the event of the decease of this last personage, the government devolves on the Chief Justice of St. Johns. The W 48 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND I *t1 vi We were witnesses of the ceremony of installing and swearing ii; Vice- Admiral Sir Richard Goodwin Keats, G.C. B. as Gover- nor : and never was the protection of this valuable colony confided, during a critical period, to more indefatigable or able hands. The bravery, abilities, and brilliant achievements of Sir Richard Keats are known throughout Europe; but his patient assiduity, excellent precautions, and unre- mitting vigilance, can only be manifest to those who were witnesses of the able dispo- sition of his naval force, whereby the shores of Newfoundland might be navigated in security during the most violent period of the late contest with America*. The t\l »ii' * When Captain of the Superli, 71', under the command of Admiral Sir James Saumarcz, in the Straits of Gibraltar, Sir Richard Keats ran his ship alongside two Spanish tln-ee- deckers, and engaged tlicin both at tlic same time : then making sail, he passed out from between them, unnoticed; and, overtaking auotlier of their fleet, wliose force was more prapoitionate to that of the Superb, he soon compelled her to a war- AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 49 The The judicature of this island is confided to a Chief Justice y residing in St. John's : and there are also Magistrates in the principal places on the coast of Ncafound/dNd and Labrador, who are empowered to take cog- nizance of tnurder, robberies, and frauds ; but it has been judiciously ordained, that they should not interfere in any disputes relative to the fisheries. For the adjustment of the latter cases, an officer of the Navy is annually appointed to hold a Surrogate Court in the out-harbours. It would be very difficult to form the least calculation respecting the population of 67. Johns; as no computation, however accurate, a surrender. The two three-.leckers, not perceiving hia escape, continued, in the darkness of the night, to engage each other; until they both caught fire, and were consumed together : thus giving to Captain Keats the honour of having, hy a masterly manoeuvre, occasioned the destruction of two first-rate line-of-battle ships belonging to the enemy; and capturing another of equal force, with a comparatively trifling loss on his own part. .1' ■ ' \n sill's 50 VOrAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND lit .;:: accurate, can be considered as correct beyond the instant of time in which it is made. During the height of the fishery, it appears to be overtiowing with inhabitants ; but most of the people employed therein return to Europe in the autumn. There is not a work of any kind that we can refer to respecting Newfoundland, if we except those imperfect sketches given of it in the various publications called Gazetteers. Upon such works there can be little dependence placed, particularly when they profess to describe countries not generally known. Of this fact, we have an instance before us ; when, in speak- ing of Newfoundland, we find it stated*, *' that there are about 500 English fiimilies, " who continue there all the year, besides " the garrisons of St. John's, Placentia, and *' other forts. In the Jishing season, it is ** resorted * The " General Gazetteer," by R. Brookes, M.D. London, 1815. tt (t <( T as ni maj< riser AN'D THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 51 rrect it is ry, it ants; erein rhere refer xcept it in ttcers. little when js not e have speak- tated*, imilies, besides tia, and )n, it is resorted ). London, " resorted to by at least 10,000 people, on " account of the fishing banks." We may judge of the degree of accuracy with which this calculation was made, by refe- rence to another passage in the same description : ** It seems to have no inhabi- ** tants of its own ; hut in the summer-time *' is visited hy the Esquimaux Indians.'^ It may appear strange, that such lamentable ignorance should exist respecting one of our most valuable possessions in North America: it will appear hereafter, that Netirfoundlund has always been inhabited by a nation peculiar to itself; and that the Esquimaux are not less strangers upon the coasts than the Chickasaws or Catabees in the streets of London/ The state of society in St. Johns is such as might be expected, in a place where the majority of the principal inhabitants have risen from the lowest fishermen. The £ 2 vulgar \^m II- i, I 13 ■■ ? 62 VOYAGl; TO NEWFOUNDLAND vulgar arrogance of these upstarts is some- times both ludicrous and ofFen«ive. Lite- rature and polished manners are here un- known ; and a stranger must not be sur- prised to observe a constant violation of the most ordinary rules of speech. The lower classes are generally composed of turbulent Irishmen, whose unwearied industry during the fishing season in Slim- mer is forcibly contrasted with their un- bounded licentiousness in winter, ladled, all ranks of society appear \,o coi sider debauchery as 'J r- only antidote to the tcedium vitce whiC'! prevails between the month of December and the recommence- ment of the fishert/ in the Mai/ following. Having spoken of the industry and licen- tiousness of the Irish fishermen, it will be no more than justice to mention an instance of honesty in one of their class. The Tl lam be of^l are, somi AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 53 The author had been making a purchase of some trifling" article, upon one of the quays in St. Johns; when, in consequence of being much hurried, he was so negligent as to leave his purse and gloves upon a log of timber near the place. The town- crier was authorized to offer an adequate reward for the recovery of the property ; and in less than half an hour afterwards, the purse and gloves were restored to the owner, by a tattered wretch, as destitute in his appearance as the meanest pauper. The purse contained about ten pounds sterlings in the current notes of the island. The trading commodities of Newfound^ land are so well known, that it will only be requisite to say, the exports consist o^ fishy oil, and a very fewjurs: the imports are, provisions, clothing, salt, fishing- gear, and some India goods, 'mm itr\n -n 'l! 54 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND The scenery around theCapital, like all the other parts ot" the island, is wild and deso- late : but in many places, the mountains, lakes, woods, and plains, present rather a pleasing landscape. The inhabitants of St. Johns have extended their cjuntry- houses only a few miles into the interior. t 1 ili' fc !i The rigour of the winters in Newfound- land, and indeed throughout the whole continent of North America, has excited the curiosity and inquiries of many philo- sophical writers. Although lying on the same parallel of latitude with the most fer- tile parts of France, yet such is the severity of the climate, that it is not an unusual circumstance, in St. Johns, to find, at the breakfast-table, the tea-cup frozen to the saucer, although filled with boiling water at the moment!* Robertson savs, that *' almost * To shew how little dependence can be placed upon the descriptions given of Nctifoumiland by those who first visited ■he f:; AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 55 *' almost all the birds fly, during that sea- ** son, from a climate where they could not " live:" but, in this point at least, he is mis- taken ; because most of the northern parts of North America abound with feathered tribes much more during the winter than in the summer, particularly with par- tridges, wild duchsy geese, plovers, and moor-fowl \. In tlie country, it will only be necessary to mention, that, in their eagerness to recommend the colonization of the island, they liave actually represented the climate as being equally mild and temper.ite with that of Great Britain. — See tFIiit- tourne's Discourse and Discovery oi' Neufoundlaud, p. 1. f As a proof of this, it is only necessary to quote the fol- lowing passitges, from the account of countries situate eight degrees further to the North than Newfoundland. " They use, " at the Factories, no other method of killing the partridges, " than shooting them : and in this they are very successful, for " they are there in very great plenty ; insomuch, that some " men may be able to shoot sixty or eighty in a day's time, *' which makes a good article in the magazine- list of winter " provision." — £///i's Voyage to Hudson's Bay, p. 160. " There are great plenty o( partridges in the wintertime." Letters from a Gentleman on hoard His Majesty's Ship Furnace, in Churchill River, North America. '$'^'l li .L.I 56 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND Ai U. In attempting to account for the rigour so remarkably characteristic of the climate of Norf/i America, philosophers, in their in- quiry, have evidently fallen short of the original cause. They all concur in the fact, that the extreme severity of w^inter is occa- sioned by the prevalence; of the north-west wind during that season of the year : but to explain the true source of sucli an extraor- dinary diminution of temperature, it is in- cumbent upon them to point out the causes of this prevailing wind. ^ «^ ia !l 71 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND hooks, and lines ; and he left us a short time afterwards, in great good humour. In the evening of this day, some of our Officers went to a sort of rustic ball, given by the fishermen's daughters in a hut at Sandy Point: and on their return, they gave a comic description of their different partners, all of whom, it appeared, had been dressed in the most burlesque finery for the occasion. June the twenty-sixth, at six in the morning, Mr. Manlei/, the purser, with the author, again left the ship, and proceeded in a small boat, or rather canoe, up the Main River, which empties itse'f into the head of St. George's Bay. We went thi- ther to treat for the purchase of a young- heifer which the owner of the canoe had for sale. There AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 73 There is a bar of sand extending quite across the mouth of the Main River, and the sea generally breaks over it in a tre- mendous manner. Our sensations were not of the most pleasing kind, on the pro- spect of passing through this surf in so small a boat : but upon questioning our conductor as to the probabiiity of danger, he spoke of the boat's oversetting as a circumstance very likely to happen ; but then, he added, with the utmost com- placency, that ' his boat was such a lively little thing, we could easily hang on the bottom of her, until the waves should toss us upon the strand*. We, however, succeeded in passing over the bar, without having occasion to trust to this dangerous expedient. The Main River is a broad and tolerably deep * We were aflcrvvaids Informed tliat sucli oco;irrenccs are not at all unusual, in passing the bar ot* the Main River. 74 VOVAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND deep stream: its banks are composed of loose earth, covered with various lichens, and surmounted with noble forests of spruce, larch, Jir, and birch trees. Having agreed to purchase the heifer at the rate of one shilHng per pound, we walked from the Main River, round the head of the bay, to the trout stream before mentioned, where we found an old man busily employed in catching salmon. Thence we pursued our walk over a stony beach, until we reached the Indian ivig- warns, situate on the nonhern shore of the bay. The village appeared to be entirely deserted by the men, and the women and children, being naturally shy of strangers, fled to the woods at our approach. The wigwams, or habitations of the Micmac Indians, are constructed of birch- tree Ai it of AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 75 tree bark in a conical shape*; and at the top there is an aperture for the smoke to escape through. They make their fires in the center of the hnt; and suspend deerS' flesh over it, to dry for the winter consump- tion. The same practice obtains amongst theLaplanders and most of the nomade tribes of North ylmerica'\ . We also perceived great quantities of stinking fish and bones lying scattered about their ivigtuams; together with canoes, and large fish-stages. w % After strolling for some t ime about the village, we found two young male Indians stretched at their full length before a fire J, who very civilly offered to row us on board the * See the Vignette to this Chapter. f Sec the representation of a Tent of Cree Indians, in the Autlior's ' Narrative of a Voyage to Hudson's Bay.' t " The Indian men are remarkable for their idleness, " upon which they seem to value themsehes; saying, that to " labour would be degrading them, and belongs only to the " women." Ex'' ccfrom Major Rogers's Account of North Amirica. ' f :,[ ■ 'f h vM ■w 76 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND the Rosamond in one of their bark canoes. We readily accepted this proposal : and during our passage to the ship, we gathered from them the following interesting parti- culars relative to the first settlement of their tribe in S^. George's Bay. Iv^ il ft During our war with America, between the years 1775 and 1782, the Micmac In- dians, inhabiting the island oi Cape Breton and the parts adjacent, were amongst the number of our most inveterate enemies : but at length one of our military com- manders having concluded an amicable treaty with them, he selected one of the most sagacious of their Chiefs to negotiate a peace with a neighbouring tribe, who w^ere also hostile to the English cause. The old Indian ambassador succeeded in the object of his mission ; and received, as his reward, the grant of a sterile tract of land in St. George s Bay, Newfoundland, together AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 77 together with permission to transport us many of his countrymen thither as might be willing to accompany him in the expedi- tion. Accordingly, the old Sachem left his native land, accompanied by a strong party of Indian followers; and boldly launching out to sea in their own crazy shallops or canoes, they eventually reached St. George s Bay in safety. Such instances of bold navigation are not unusual amongst the Indians of North America, and particularly those of Nova Scotia*. Without compass or chart, they are not perplexed in traversing the most boisterous * " The Indians about A'ova Scotia, and the Gulf of St. " Lawrence have frequently passed over to the Labrador, *' which is thirty or forty leagues, witliout a compass, and " have landed at the very spot they first intended : and " even in dark cloudy weatlier they will direct their course " by land with great exactness; but ^this they do by <* observing the bark and boughs of trees ; the north side, in <' this country, being always mossy, and the boughs on the " south side the largest." Extract from Major Rogers'f Account of North America. I.-; ' 'I , '<■ i I' j !'f I 'Km n ,1' \ 7S VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND boisterous seas or trackless deserts : ne- cessity has taught them to be guided by natural appearances: and there can be no doubt but that such was also the confined practice of European navigators, previous to the important discovery of the magnetic needle. The first act of the Alicmacs, upon their arrival in Neurfoundland, was to appoint the old Indian, who had conducted them thi- ther, their Chief in perpetuity ; and they next *' buried the sword" as a symbol that war had for ever ceased between their tribe and the English nation. Since this period, they have been making a gradual progress towards civilization: and by frequent inter- marriages with the European settlers at Sandy Pointy the race became so inter- mingled, that, at the time we visited them, the number oi pure Indians did not exceed fifty, exclusive of women and children. In tious AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 79 . In their persons, they are robust and tall; with amazing coarse features, very high cheek bones, flattened noses, wide nostrils, small eyes widely separated from each other, and thick black hair hanging per- pendicularly from either temple*. They are dressed, for the most part, in apparel which they procure from the Europeans at Sandif Point, in exchange for jislt, oil, and furs: however, they still preserve a few originalities in their costume, such as deer- shin sandals, embroidered red caps, and red cloth greaves in lieu of stockings. The Micmacs are, in their dispositions, naturally good-natured, and exceedingly civil towards strangers ; but when intoxi- cated, their whole manner changes. Spiri- tuous liquors, of which they arc exces- sively fond, will, in an instant, convert a peaceful and inoffensive Indian into a most * In fact, corresponding very accurately with the descrip- tions travellers have given ol'th 2 people called Calmucks. 80 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND ',/ r \i^'^> \ most ferocious savage. The women and children are then compelled to seek refuge in the woods. The barbarian, not finding any person on whom he dare wreak his brutal vengeance, will attack his own wretched tvigwafii, break every article it contains, and probably complete the wreck by tearing the whole fabric to the ground; nay, even the barrel of his musket is fre- quently bent double, and the stock broken in pieces ; although he generally esteems his fowling-piece as more valuable and dearer to his heart than either his wife or his children. H'l i If this infuriate maniac be visited on the following morning, he will be found sitting upon the ground, with his family around him, lamenting, in bitter terms, the effects of his preceding debauch. Nevertheless, they have a wonderful facility at repairing the damages occasioned by their frequent fits AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. o* fits of intoxication: the tvigwam is easily rebuilt, the broken utensils are quickly mended, the musket stock is bound toge- ther with slips ot raw hide, and the barrel is twisted and bent upon the knee-ntil it is found to carry correctly towards its aim*. Murders are very uncommon amongst this people ; but broken heads, loss of eyes, and deep cuts, are frequently inflicted during their drunken quarrels. It is really astonishing, that, although they be impla-' cable in revenging a deliberate insult, yet they * One of the Indians visiting the Rosamond when the officers were amusing themselves by shooting at a bottle suspended from the yard-arm, was requested to exhibit his (kill as a .narksman in the same way. Accordingly, he went to the arm-chest to select a musket for this purpose, turning over several before he found one to his liking. At length, taking up a marine's firelock, he held it to his eye, to see if it were perfectly straight ; then, shaking his head, he took the barrel out of the stock, and repeatedly bent it, in different directions, over his knee : afterwards, he replaced it in the stock ; and then, walking forward with a confident air, he levelled the piece, and, in An instant, shivered the bottle to atoms. O ■; Ir'f ■■I *i, :'t'. I . 1 ^'f m I- 1 ''If ■ 1; . m VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND they have never been known to resent the provocations of an intoxicated man. " Should we blame or punish him/* say they, " when he does not know what he is " about, or has not his reason * ?" The Micmacs of Si. George s Bay can hardly be said to have any kind of civil government. It is true, they acknowledge the descendant of their original leader to be still their Sachem or Chief: but what- ever power he may possess, arises more from the ascendancy acquired by his mild and conciliating manners, than from any respect which the hidians pay to the office itself. The grandson of the old leader held the situation of Chief while we were there : he was a very aged man, and had two or three full-grown sons. The heir-apparent to the Sachemship * Extract from JIajor Rngers's Account of North America. AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 83 Sachemship was a fine tall young man, of a most exemplary character; and one amongst the very small number of those Indians, who, dreading the baneful effects of intoxi- cation, had entirely forsworn the use of spirituous liquors. Our former acquaint- ance at the trout stream f was also one of those who had abjured the di-inking of rutn; and we were informed that he bore a high reputation for industry, honesty, and conjugal affection. f- '. t The only distinction observable between the Chief and his subjects is in the form of their habitations. The Sachem resides in a square hut, boarded up at the sides ; while the other Indians dwell in the conical wig- warns before mentioned. The former gains his livelihood exactly in the same manner as the latter ; that is to say, by fishing in summer, and hunting in winter. They smile t Sei' pugos 69 ain^ 70. (} 2 ♦i I f 1' m 'h'\ 4 ^ 1 en VOYAOB TO NEWPOUNOLAITD smile at the notion of any person being permitted to subsist in total idleness, upon the labour of his fellow-creatures. :i In some cases, the Indians we are de^ scribing prove excellent surgeons, particu- larly in their treatment of cuts, ulcers, and bruises ; but they have not the slightest idea of the means necessary to be pursued in setting a dislocated joint. Their skill in medicine is likewise very trifling. The cli- mate produces but few diseases ; and they are consequently but little acquainted with remedies*. Since * The following additional remarks concerning the Micmac Indians were communicated to the author by John Duke, Esq. Surgeon of the Rosamond, and nephew of the cele- brated Dr. Burnet, formerly Physician to the Mediterranean Fleet. " I do not remember observing any acute or even chronic " diseases amongst them. We were much struck at the " care and tenderness evinced by the younger part of the " community towards those who, from infirmity or age, were " rendered incapable of assisting themselves. I saw several « initances of old persons unable to walk, and deprived of ♦• sight AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 85 Since Since their original migration from the island of Cape Breton, the Micmtics have frequently changed their abode lu different places within the limits of St. George h Bay. They had, however, resided about nine years in the spot where we found them. Unburthened by taxes of any kind, they are proportionably active and industrious. An Indian is here animated to labour, by the certainty that what he earns is his own property, and that his superior gains do not render him liable to heavier impositions. Independent of the colony of Micmac Indians, there are, in St. George'^ Bay, thirteen families of Europeans, or their de- scendants, who have been born in this place. " sight or hearing, who appeared tube regarded by the '* whole tribe as objects most worthy of their attention. " The first request made by their Chief to me, was for a '' lancet ; and I was surprised to observe that they could use " this instrument, in bleeding, with some skill and adroitness. " Upon the whole, T am inclined to think that they enjoy, in •' general, excellent health." J' m V5YAGB TO NEWFOUNDLAND « i I place. Owing to a contrariety in their religious opinions, eleven of them are calle« English families, and the remainder are denominated French; the former styling themselves Protestants, and the latter Ca- tholics. We inquired into the method of performing the marriage ceremony, and interring the dead : and were informed, that the C/wsoe-looking being, whom we had met with upon first entering the place *, possessed a licence from St. Johns, to per- form the functions of a priest. " He was " the only person residing there," they said, " who knew how to read !" and he officiated at all the religious ceremonies of both Protestants and Catholics, The whole of the white population did not amount to more than one hundred and twelve persons : and estimating the Indian colony at iiinety-seven, St. George- s Bay may * Sec pages 65, 66. AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 87 their allei are yling rCfl- ad of and rmed, m we •lace *, 3 per- Fe was • they and he nies of ion did red and Indian e's Bay . . may may be said to have contained about two hundred and nine souls altogether, includ- ing English, French, Indians, women, and children. * Every person owning a boat mNewfound- land, or the Labrador^ is compelled to pay sixpence per annum towards the support of Greenwich Hospitalt; but the difficulty of collecting this simple tax is inconceivably great. A ship of war usually visits the different ports around the coast, for that purpose : and there have been instances known of such an excursion not having produced more than the small sum of three pounds sterling, and a few caslcs of salted salmon. This singular difficulty, in the collection of so very trifling an imposition, arises solely from the great scarcity of specie in this country, as almost the. whole internal f The Colony of jV/ic/nnc F/idians, in St. Cfor^tt's Bay, are not subject to this or any other tax. 'Hm^\ II *', 88 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND internal trade of Neivfoundland is carried on by barter ; so that the masters of fishe* lies have frequently been compelled to pay even their simple boat-duty in the current commodities of the island. During our stay in St. Georges Bay, we gathered the sum of five pounds, as a part of the arrears due to His Majesty. Our unprecedented success at this place, in obtaining so considerable a portion of the revenue, originated in the circumstance of a little cash having been put in circulation by the officers of the Rosamond, in making purchases of fish, furs, and cattle. During the whole of June the twenty- seventh, it blew so violent a gale from the north-east, that we were compelled to veer away cable, and bring both our anchors a-head. Towards evening, as the wind did not abate, we struck our topmasts; and ia iiffi AND THE COAST OP LABBABOH,. 89 in this state our ship rode through the night in perfect safety. July the is/. — We at length quitted St. Georges Bay, to the evident regret of its peaceful inhabitants, with vi'hom we had been on the most friendly terms since our first arrival in the place. It was not our Captain's intention to touch at any more ports in Newfoundland at present; but to proceed immediately, in pursuance of the orders which he had received, to watch over and protect the Bru tish fisheries established upon the Coast of Labrador, ■ .:l. m m 00 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND CHAP. IV. ii FROM ST. GEORGES BAY, IN NEWFOUNDLAND, TO L'ANSE-A-LOUP BAY, IN LABRADOR. Probable Formation of the Straits of Bblle-isle — Expedition of RicMty — Narrow Escape — Green Island — Bradore Bay — L'Anse le Blanc — Anchor at Forteau — Esquimaux, or Fishing Indians — Mountaineer or Hunting Indians — Forteau Bay — Europeans o/"Forteau — Admiral of the Fishery — Sail from Forteau — Anchor at L'Anse k Loup. 1 HE Straits of Belle-isle is the name given to that narrow channel which separates the ibiand of Newfoundland from the Continent of North America. They are about thirty leagues in length ; and, in the narrowest part, not more than ten miles wide. To AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 91 To those who are curious in tracing the primary causes that have produced the present configuration of the globe, it will at once appear probable, that the island of Newfoundland was, at no very remote period, joined to the coast of La- brador. It possibly existed in the shape of a vast peninsula, until the first rushing down of the mighty river St. Lawrence : when, perhaps, tlie narrow isthmus, htmg unable to resist the fury of the torrent, gave way, and opened a northern channel, whereby that noble stream might disem- bogue itself into the Atlantic Ocean. In searching for the remains of the former isthmus, to support the hypothesis here suggested, the islands of Belle-isle and Quirpon present themselves, stretched like a broken ridge across the Straits between the south-eastern extremity of Labrador, called Cjpc Charles, and the north-eastern promontory of Newfoundland. For manv years ■bd; 92 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND years after the British fisheries had been established upon the Labrador coast, the Straits of Belle-isle were conjectured to be extremely dangerous as a passage for large vessels. About the year 1795, the French Admiral Richeryj taking advantage of our ignorance in this respect, entered the Straits with a flying squadron, where he did con- siderable damage to the fisheries. Messrs. Noble, Pinson, and .So//, who possessed a considerable settlement in VAme^d-Loup Bay, with their own hands set fire to their large magazine of provisions and stores, that they might not serve as a supply to refresh the enemy's squadron. By this patriotic action the mercantile house in question incurred a loss of twenty thousand pounds ; for which disinterested and loyal conduct they have never been, in the slightest degree, remunerated by the British Government. Since AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 93 Since this disaster, a King's ship is usually stationed in the Straits of Belle-isle, during war, to guard the fisheries until the end of the season ; when the ice, by entirely blocking up the channel, affords a suffi- cient security until the approach of the ensuing summer. On the 4th of July, we imagined our- selves to be near the entrance of the Straits ; but such a thick fog prevailed, that we could scarce distinguish the end of our ship's jib-boom. And here we were destined to owe our safety, as in a former instance*, to the acute ears of Captain Campbell ; who, upon listening very atten- tively, and putting his head as near as pos- sible to the surface of the sea, could faintly distinguish the dashing of a surf, appa- rently at no great distance from the ship. The lead was immA^diately thrown over- board, * See page 22. ' . 1. ' wm, '^m 94 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND I board, and it struck bottom with thirty-five fathoms of hne. No time was to be lost, as the roaring of the breakers could now be distinctly heard by every person on board : we therefore let fall the anchor, to await the dispersion of the fog. At length the vapour slowly cleared away ; and our astonishment may be conceived, when we perceived the black rocks of Green Island within a quarter of a mile of the Rosamond, with the wrecks of two large ships lying bilged upon the beach ! * Had it not been for the attentive vigilance of our skilful Commander, it is certain that our ship would have completed a dismal trio upon the shores of this desolate and dangerous island. Green Island is an uninhabited spot, lying at the mouth of a deep inlet, called Bradore Bay; ♦ Two large timber ships, from Canada ^ had been stranded upon Green Island, a short time previous to our arrival in the Straits of Belle-isle, AXD THK COAST OF LAiillADOR. JJ5 Bay ; and there is anchorage between it and the coast of Labrador : but a heavy swell of the sea renders the roadstead dangerous for large vesselsf . Bradore Bay takes its name, perhaps, from La Brador; as it is situate upon the southern side of that immense peninsula, and near the entrance of a large gulph, called Esquimaux Bay. It has depth of water sufficient to float a frigate; but, at the same time, is rendered useless as a harbour, by the incalculable number of small rocks which it contains. Bradore Bay is also much exposed to the violence of the westerly winds : it may therefore be considered a very unsafe anchorage for ships of heavy burthen. In consequence of tl e dangers and inconveniences attending its t While we were stationed on the Lahrndor coast, the Bachelor merchuntman anchored between Green Island and the mainland; and a heavy sea arising, her rudder wws. thereby alvj:olr.tc\v thumped from the sicvn. ' f **, 96 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND its navigation, this bay has not more than ten settled inhabitants, but it is fre- quently visited by the Canadian fishermen in summer. The great Esquimaux Bay has a strong in- draught off its mouth, which is very liable to draw vessels out of their true course. It was owing solely to this circum- stance that our ship had so nearly been driven upon Green Island. ,' '8 VAnse le Blanc, or VAnse le Clair, is the next bay to the eastward of Bradore. This place contains about fifty inhabitants ; but, like the latter, it is not a port capable of sheltering large vessels. The author has merely noticed UAnse le Blanc, be- cause it is said to contain the most exten- sive seal fishery that has been established in the Straits of Belle-isle, Towards AXr THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 97 Towards the evening of Juty the 5th, we anchored in Forteau Bay, on the coast of Labrador. From this time forward, as we were continually sailing to and fro about the Straits of Belle-isle^ it will be unnecessary to notice the exact date of the observations ; and, by discontinuing to do so, the description of Labrador will appear more regular and connected. The whole of the southern coast of Labrador, bordering upon the Straits of Belle-isle, was originally inhabited by that singular nation, the Esquimaux. It is probable, also, that, during their sum- mer voyages, they may have formerly been accustomed to visit the opposite shores of Newfoundland : but their antipathy to a residence near European settlements lias gradually induced them to remove farther towards the north ; and we now find them inhabiting only those frozen tracts where H no m ii'i .i\ t 1)8 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND no Europeam, except the indefatigable Moravian Missionaries, would venture to take up their abode. At Sandwich Buy, upon the eastern coast of Labrador, there are about eight or nine famihcs of British settlers. Here it is that the encroachments of the fishermen have terminated ; and, consequently, it is only in the vast regions to the northward of this bay that the habitations of the Esquimaux are to be found*. The Europeans have established a sort of yearly traffic with them ; giving supplies of ammunition, guns, and clothing, in return fo;* furs, oil, and whalebone. * The author is aware, that, in his Narrative of a Voyage in Hudson's Bay, he has already described the manners and customs of the Esquimaux in their totally savage stale. Tliu observations respecting them in the present work will, there- fore, be confined to those tribes that lie scattered along the coast of Labrador, from Hudson's Straits to Sandwich Bay ; who, by their frequent intercourse with the Europeans, raay be considered to be in a state of greater civilization than their more northern brethren. AND THE COAST OP LABHADOU. 99 whalebone. The Indians bring all their commodities to the Settlements by water, in large open boatSi which they procure in barter from the fishermen ; and, during the time occupied in their commercial voyages towards the souths the whole tribe repose at night beneath tents of seal-skin, made suf- ficiently roomy for their reception, and of materials that are equally impervious to wind or rain. 1' ' i t\ The dexterity displayed by the Esqui- maux, in killing quadrupeds, birds, and fishes, for their subsistence, is not to be surpassed by the ingenuity of more polished nations. They are, moreover, honest in their principles, mild in their dis- positions, and hospitable to unprotected strangers ; but both sexes are much addicted to the pernicious use of spirituous liquors* ■1 m|v The Moravian Missionaries have laboured H 2 hard ■M 100 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND hard to implant the Christian faith upon the shores of Labrador, and they have suc- ceeded as well as could be expected ; but the Indians are so attached to their antient superstitions, that they hesitate not to sacri- jice a favourite child on the grave of its de- ceased parent, under a belief that their earthly dissolution is immediately succeeded by a blissful re-union above; and this they do, notwithstanding their conscious- ness of the enormity attending so horrid an action. m The EsqidmaiLi are always well provided with their peculiar breed of dogs; in appear- ance so nearly resembling wolves, that they are easily mistaken for that animal. These dogs are so voracious and fierce, that they have been frequently known to devour the unprotected children of their masters : they are used by the Indians to drag their lug- gage over the snow in winter ; and the young AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 101 young dogs are valued as a delicate species of food by the same people. The seal is eaten in a variety of ways. From the entrails they manufacture a thin transparent garment, which, like an oil-case, will keep out a great deal of rain. They are, however, strongly attached to European clothing ; and seldom wear any other, when woollen dresses can possibly be procured. The Esquimaux Indians have a method of entirely embanking their huts with turf and moss, excepting a small casement of oiled scal-sMn at the top. By this means, they are enabled to exist the whole winter without the aid of fire ; as the closeness of the habitation renders the place as Warm as an oven. Thie singular attachment of this people to their native land is worthy of observation. It is an incontestable fact, that the frozen seas if' 'Hi' ■m '^■M 'v4 102 yOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND seas and icy valleys of the North present more forcible allurements to the roving Esquimaux than the gentle waves and cerulean skies of more temperate regions. ill. Such are the tribes who, in detached parties, inhabit the sea-coast of Labrador : but the interior of this peninsula is occupied by a race of Indians, whose whole support is derived from animals which they kill in hunting. The latter are called Mountaineers , or Hunting Indians, by the European settlers ; jand are, in every respect, a distinct people from the Esquimaux. The latter obtains a precarious subsistence entirely by his la- bours upon the ocean ; the other, hy his activity upon the land. The Hunting Indian, unless when roused by the pressing calls of hunger, is slothful, stupid, arrogant, cowardly, and superstitious : the Esquimaux, on the contrary, is habitually active, enter- prising, ingenious, and independent. The fornif ; AND THE COAST OF LABRADOJl. 10.3 former possesses a set of features which is said to be decidedly Tahtarian, whilst the features of the latter bear a striking resem- blance to the Samo'iedes of Europe*. There are few tribes of Hunting Indians in Labrador that do not profess the Catholic religion ; but the whole of their faith con- sists in paying a stupid homage to those little pictures of the Crucifixion that are strung about their swarthy necks by the Canadian Missionaries. They have fallen into the common error of all half-proselytes to Christianity ; and, like the Russian peasantry, bestow that adoration on a symbol of the Divinity, which should only be paid to the Supreme Being. Ostenta- tious to excess of their Scriptural appella- tions, they have not imbibed a particle of that meek and charitable spirit which was so eminently conspicuous in the lives of their holy * Sec the Frontispiece. mA 104 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND holy namesakes. Instead of living in ** good- will tov/ards men," they bear an hereditary and inveterate hatred to the Esquimaux, whom they consider to be the most abject and degraded nf mankind — *• A set of dogs,'' say they, " without a *' name*, ivithout courage^ a?id without the *' ivisdom of a Mountaineer y With all this opinion of their own sagacity, they possess scarcely sufficient foresight to provide food for their winter consumption ; and in in- vention they are manifestly inferior to the despised Esquimaux. They pretend t® prognosticate the weather from the appear- ance of the Moon. When it is thus,^ or, as they explain it, when the Moon is in such a position that they can hang their shot-belt over the horn, fair and frosty weather may be expected : but when the luminary assumes a more jDcrpendicular attitude. * The Esquimaux have not yet adopted the use of Christian names. AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 105 attitude, thus, ^ the Indians affirm that fogs and warmth are certain to followf . A continual trade is carried on between the Mountaineers and the Europeans. The former bring down furs to the Settlements, and exchange them for ammunition and clothing. They are quite as fond of being clad in woollen apparel, as are their ene- mies the Esquimaux ; and their inclination for intoxicating liquors is perhaps more violent. Although the Hunting Indians be very expert in the use of fire-arms, yet they are frequently compelled, by a scarcity of ammunition, to recur for support to their original weapons, the bow and arrows; and with these they can kill a flying par- tridge at forty yards' distance. Their canoes are I .'•'. \ ■ > J, ■m .ft W \ There is a similar notion prevalent among seamen re- specting the foretelling of weather by the Moon. They say, that " when the Moon lies on her bach," it is the sure presage of an approaching storm. 106 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND pi ft;:' El are made of birch bark; and being quite portable and light, are usually carried with them across the deserts, together with the necessary materials for erecting their huts. The sledges are constructed of a thin birch board, turned up before, in this manner, ) and shod wit h slips of bone. The Mountaineers draw their own sledges ; as their dogs are but sinall, and used only for the purposes of hunting. It has been justly observed, that the numerous nations described by enthusiastic travellers as inhabiting the internal parts of North America are, in fact, nothing more than scanty clans, containing each but a few families of Indians. This remark, however, will apply but partially to the natives of Labrador : for, although the Mountaineers be divided into separate tribes, who each have a dialect peculiar to them- selves, yet tliey form collectively a great nation, AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. m nation, in every respect dissimilar to the Esquimaux. The latter, also, have been admitted, by the best historians of America*, to be a race so widely distinct, in language, manners, and customs, from the inhabi- tants of the interior, that they ought to be denominated an independent people. La- brador, therefore, contains two great and separate nations, however subdivided they may be found. The barrenness of the soil, and the diillculty of procuring subsistence, have naturally dispersed and scattered their numbers ; whereas, had the very same nations been placed by Providence in those fertile countries that lie near the Isthmus of Daricn, they would probably have become equall}' civilized with the antient Peruvians or Mexicans. m m it. w We will here conclude our sketch of the Rohertson'^lW&i. oi America^ Vol.1, p.SOT. 13ook iv, m ■■I .jl f 1---,.* 108 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND the native inhabitants of Labrador, and proceed to a description of the principal Set- tlements of the Europeans on the south-east coasts of that country. i Forteau is a very extensive bay, situate about ten miles to the easttvard of the before-mentioned V Anse le Blanc. It is sheltered from all winds between east and tvest to the northward, and is considered as the most considerable of the British Esta- blishments in the -Straits oi Belle-isle ; yet it is certainly neither a convenient nor a secure anchorage. Large ships are com- pelled to ride upon the edge of a bank, in eighteen fathoms' water, lying near the western side of the bay. The holding- ground is very bad : and during a hard 7vesterly gale, there is much danger of the anchor dragging off the bank ; w^hen the only chance of safety would consist in cutting the cable, and putting immediately to AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 109 to sea : for the eastern shore is so rockj, that it would inevitably prove the destruc- tion of any vessel w^hich might happen to be driven upon it. This bay is defended by lofty mountair towards the east and tvest ; but is particu- larly exposed to the violence of the north wind, when rushing through a valley at the head of it. The difficulty of watering, and the total impossibility of obtain- ing fire- wood, will ever render Forteau an inconvenient port for the resort of shipping. A great jealousy exists between the Guernsey adventurers, who occupy the western side of this bay, and the English ftimilies established upon the opposite shore. The latter stigmatize the former as cheats and swindlers ; whilst the former represent the latter to be notoriously knavish 4- ,fS R«l'.«ii 110 VOVACK TO NEWFOUNDLAND knavish in all their dealings. The fact is, that they are only envious of each other's gains ; and the Guernsey people, by being the most industrious, are generally the most calumniated. The vessels of these thriving islanders are slightly built, and calculated to make speedy voyages : so that by hurrying out to Newfoundland as early in the year as possible, they quickly procure cargoes of cod; and as speedily recrossing the Atlantic, they by this means succeed in getting the first of the Spanish and Porttiguese markets, whereby they obtain a high price for their fish, and incur the resentment of those who are less expe- ditions in their mercantile speculations. There are, in all, about eighteen boats constantly employed at Forteau, During the fishing season, the English reside in Labrador all the winter ; but the Guernsey^ men quit it in the autumn, and return thither again in the spring. According AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. Ill According to a curious old custom, the sum of sixty pounds sterling is annually bestowed upon the master of that vessel which may chance to arrive first at Fortcau, in the beginning of the year ; and the per- son who receives the reward is dignified by the title of Admiral of the Fishery for the ensuing season. Where there are no com- missioned magistrates, it is the duty of this individual to take cognizance of offenr^s. There are also a few trifling privileges attached to the office ; amongst which, is the exclusive right to a salmon river at the head of the bay. When we were at For- teau, a Guernsey Captain had gained the reward ; and by farming the salmon fishery for forty pounds more, he thus cleared the sum of one hundred pounds, without the least exertion or labour on his own part. Having discovered that there was much more secure anchorage in a bay about six miles 112 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND miles to the eastward of Forteau, our Captain resolved to proceed thither without delay : accordingly, we left the former place on the eleventh of July^ and reached L/Anse a Loup, or Wolf Bay, on the evening of the same day. A\D THE COAST OF LAnHAHOU. 11.3 CHAP. V. L'ANSE A LOUP. Lc Petit Nord — L'Aiise il Loup — Co/iJ/agrat'ion- -Author Imves his Shi/) — Dv[mrtiire of the Rosamond — System oj' Bank -fishing J) 07n Rayiiul — Shorc-Jlshcnj — Method of airing Cod — Qualities of Dri( i Cod — The Capeliii — Scenery (f Labrador — Berries — Birds — Animals — Fishes — Mosrjuitos. It has been already related*, that the fish- ermen of France occupied the uorthern and southern shores of Navfoiuul/and, previous to their total resignation of the island by the memorable Treaty of Utrecht. Those lands that border on the Straits of Belle- isle were called Le Petit Nord\ by the people of that * See page tO, Chap. IL f Ray rial's Hist, of the East and Jfest Indies, Vol. VII^ p. 193. Book xvii. Land. 1783. I $1 M -U !; Uf 114 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND that nation ; and most of the harbours then received the French appellations, which a greater number of them retain to the pre- sent day. L'Atue u Loup is the safest open bay on the whole southern coast of Labrador, In its appearance, it somewhat resembles For- tcau; as the same kind of lofty mountains defend it towards the east and west; and a similar valley at the head of the bay forms a passage, through which the furious north wind rushes, with tremendous violence. But the anchorage is here rendered more secure by the greater projection of tlie headlands ; and the place may therefore be recommended as most eligible head- quarters for any ship of war that may be hereafter stationed to protect the fisheries of Labra- dor. In this point of view, one of its chief advantages will be found to consist in the facility with which a vessel may put to sea, sea, V hence mand< and t from ] On ought beach, twelve anchor as the 1 approa It is a| to the I center of W0( facilital The] near tl contaii AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 115 sea, with the wind in any direction. From hence, also, a fine prospect may be com- manded of the whole Straits of Belle-isle, and the opposite coast of Newfoundland from Point Fetrolle to Cape Norman, On entering UAnse-a-Loup Bay, a ship ought to steer for the center of the sandy beach, until the depth of water shoals to twelve or thirteen fathoms; when the anchor should be immediately dropped; as the holding-ground is not so good, if she approach any nearer towards the shore. It is also preferable to choose a situation to the eastward, rather than in ^he exact center of the bay; as the obtaining supplies of wood and water will thereby be greatly facilitated. There is a small inlet, called Bear Cove, near the south-ivcst extremity of the bay; containing the extensive cod and seal I 2 fisheries IIG VOYAGE TO NEA^FOUNDLAND fisheries of Mr. Plnson, a merchant of Dart- mouth, who is the chief magistrate, and most considerable person upon the whole coast of Labrador. Most excellent fresh water is easily pro- cured from a fine stream that empties itself into the sea, in a north-east direction from the place of anchorage. Fire-wood is is also plentiful along the banks of the river; and it is from thence the inhabitants of LAnse a Loup derive their supplies of fuel for the winter season. On the third day after our arrival at this place, one of our seamen, whilst employed in felling timber for the ship's use, was so imprudent as to kindle a fire in the forest; in the hope, that, by the smoke, he would probably rid himself and his companions of the innumerable myriads of mosquitosj which tormented them almost to to ma their i at the the wi iire! tree to and ha( the rive been ir was, a luestern An ordt tain Cai ing of f| tence w himself,! " one " priviij * Tliis I] the immensj land are clil AND THE COAST OF LABUADOK. 117 to madness*. This scheme succeeded to their utmost wish ; and they we- e rejoicing at their deUverance, when, in an instant, the whole country appeared enveloped in fire! A high wind drove the flames from tree to tree, with the rapidity of lightning: and had it not been for the intervention of the river, the whole of the forest must have been inevitably reduced to ashes. As it was, all those trees which stood on the ivestern side of the stream were consumed. An order was immediately issued by Cap- tain C«w//>/>e//, strictly prohibiting the light- ing of fires upon the shore, under any pre- tence whatsoever : ** for," as he expressed himself, " the negligence and carelessness of " one man had been nearly the cause of de- ** priving a whole fishery, foryears to come, '' of * This is the common practice of all the Laplanders ; and the immense conflagrations in the north of Sweden and Lap- land are chiefly owing to the same cause. i ■11 If ■ r II 118 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND *' of their only comfort in winter ; whereby, " perhaps, the inhabitants might have been '* led to consider His Majesty's ship more -• in the light of a free-booting enemy, " than as a British man-of-war, sent hither ** on purpose to protect them from similar (( outrages.' The rapidity with which the flames spread in the forests of these countries has been noticed by many early writers. That such dreadful conflagrations frighten away the rein- deer, is certain. It has even been asserted, by Stephanas Farmeniis (a learned HunganaUy born at Buda, who accompanied Sir Humphrey Gilbert in his voyage,) and ** confirmed by very cre- *' diblc persons, that when the like hap- '* pencd by chance, thejish never eame near " the place in seven years after, by reason " of the water being made bitter by the *' turpentine AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 119 turpentine and resin of the trees, which " ran inio the rivers *.'* The Straits of Belle-isle are not more than ten miles wide, immediately oppo- site to the bay of UAase a Loup. We therefore erected a signal-post upon the south-west promontory ; and stationed a careful person there, to give us timely notice, should any suspicious vessel make her appearance in the Straits. We also placed a few small cannon near the same spot; so that we might be enabled, at any future period, to ascertain the position of our ship, in the event of her being again enveloped in one of those dangerous fogs, that, in a former instance, had been so nearly the cause of her destruction. A previous * See an account of Sir Humphrey Gilbert's Voyage to Newfoundland; written by Stephanus Parmenus Budeus to the Rev. Mr. Richard Hakluyt, M. A. at Christ Church, Oxford — In Harris's Collection of Voyages *jd Travels, 1705. 120 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND A previous residence of many years in a tropical climate had rendered the author liable to a rheumatic disorder, which the chilly and dense atmosphere of Labrador was peculiarly (lualified to excite ; and its consequent paroxysms became so violent, that he was soon unable to attend to his duty on board the Rosamo:^jd. This being known to Mr. Pinson, one of the resident merchants, he requested and obtained per- mission to remove the invalid to his own house ; where, for a length of time, he patiently bestowed the most benevolent attentions upon his guest, allowing him every comfort necessary for the restoration of his health : an obligation which the author can only repay by this acknowledg- ment of his kindness *. The * ItwasTrom tlii;? gentleman, also, that tlio author derived a great share of his information respecting the Fisheries, &c. — Mr. Pinson possessed a most intelligent mind, in addition to the experience of twenty years' residence on the Laliatbr coast. h T Ilrilish other n AND THE COAST OF LA BRA "OR. 121 The day after this removal took place, the Rosamond sailed away, in an easterly direc- tion, towards Red Bay. It was Captain CamphelVs intention to collect the boat-tax in most of the harbours of Labrador, pre- viously to his quitting the coast in the fall of the year. A residence of some time in the midst of a cod-Jisheri/ , during the bustle and confu- sion of the reason, afforded a good oppor- tunity for making a few remarks upon the method of catching and curing cod in Nevv^- FouNDLAND : and the author has inserted them the more willingly, because he has found, since his return to England, that, although many have attempted to describe the same, very little reliance ought to be placed upon their representations i". For ill Y The author's observations rclat.^ exclusively to the Ilrilhh Fisheries. In 1813, the wars of Ewroj!;*? prevented all other nations from participating in them. 122 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND For many years after the first coloniza- tion of Newfoundland, the whole of the rod-Jishery was confined to the great hanks of sand lying off this island, in the Atlantic Ocean. Of late years, however, it has heen discovered that cod-fish ahound equally along the shores of the island itself. At this time, the war with America had almost annihilated the Bank-fisheries ; and it was owing to this circumstance that the author had no opportunity of describing them from personal observation : but he has ventured to insert a brief extract* from a celebrated work on the subject of Banle-Jishing: merely adding, that it is now the custom to carry the cod on shore, and dry them in the sun, after they have been salted in the manner which is there mentioned. " Previous to their beginning the fisheri/, " they * Rnynais Hist, of the East antl JFest Indies, Vol. VII. J). 198. Book xvii. Lond. 1183. AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 1^3 ^' they build a gallery on the outside of the ** ship, which reaches from the main-mast " to the stern, and sometimes the whole *• length of the vessel. This gallery is " furnished with barrels, with the tops "beaten out. The Jisherme?i place them- ** selves within these, and arc sheltered from " the weather by a pitched covering " fastened to the barrels. As soon as they " catch a cod, they cut out its tongue ; and " give the fish to one of the boys, to carry ** it to a person appointed for the purpose, " who immediatelv strikes off the head, " plucks out the liver and entrails, and then ** lets it fall, through a smnll hatch-^vay, ** between decks ; when another man takes ** it, who draws out the bone as far as the " navel, and then lets it sink, through " another hatch- way, into the hold, where " it is salted and ranged in piles. The " person who salts it takes care to leave salt " enough between each row of fish, but not " more M h- ^' n M Xk. 124 V()VA(iK TO NEWrOUXDLAND " more than is sufficient, to prevent their *' touching each other: tor either of these cir- " cunistances neglected, would spoil the cod.'' [n another place, the same autlior says, that the cod '■' which is only salted, is called " green cod, and is caught upon tlie great *' banker We will now proceed to describe what is called the S/tore-Jis/wri/. The method of catching and curing the cod, in the lattv i, is the same throughout the whole of New- FoUxXDLAND and the British Settlements in Labrador. There are a number of boats, fitted with masts and sails, belonging to each /t'sZ/tT^ : two or four men being stationed to a boat. At * Although the Imik fishery had been much discontinued at the time wlien the author was in Newfoundland ; yet it lias since been revived, in consequence of tlie general peace prevailing over Europe, AND TITK COAST OF LABHAOOIl. 125 At the earliest dawn of day, the whole of these vessels proceed to that part of the coast where the ro^/are most plentiful ; for they move in shoals, and frequently alter their position, according to the changes of the wind. When the resort of the fish has been ascertained, the boats let fall their anchors, and the niL'n cast over their lines. Each man has two lines to attend ; and every line has two hooks affixed to it, which are baited either with capelin, or herrings. The men stand upon a fiat flooring ; and are divided from each other by a sort of bins, like shop-counters, placed athwart the center of the boat. Having drawn up the line, they lay the cod upon the bin, and strike it upon the back of t|^e head with a piece of wood in the shape of a rolling-pin : this blow stuns the fish, and causes it to yawn its jaws widely asunder, by which means the hook is easily ex- tracted. Then the fish is dropped into the ■\-\\ 126 VOYAGE TO N EW'FOUXDLAXD the fnn, and the line again thrown over; whilst the fisherman, instantly turning round, proceeds to pull up the opposite line : so that one line is running out, and the other pulling in, at the same instant. Thus the boatmen continue, until their vesse' is filled; when they proceed to discharge their cargo at the sort of fishing-stage represented in the Vignette to Chapter II. The cod are pitched from the boat, upon the stage, with a pike : care being taken to stick this pike into their heads ; as a wound in the body might prevent the salt from having its due effect, and thereby spoil *hc Jish. When the boats are emptied, the fishermen procure a fresh quantity of bait, and return again :o their employment on the water ; whence, in the course of an hour or two, perhaps, they again reach the stage with another cargo. Having AND THE C0A8T OF LABRADOR. 127 ■ Having thus explained the method of cod-Jishingy it remains only to describe the manner of curing. Each salting-house is provided with one or more tables, around whichl&re placed wooden chairs and leathern aprons, for the cut-throats^ headers, and splitters. The fish having been throsvn from the boats, a boy is generally employed to bring them from the stage, and place them on the table before the cut-throat ; who rips open the bowels ; and, having aho nearly severed the head from the body, he passes it along the table to his right- hand neighbour, the header, whose busi- ness it is to pull off the head, and tear out the entrails : from these he selects the liver, and, in some instances, the sound. The head and entrails being precipitated through a trunk into the sea, the liver is thrown into a cask, whence it distils in oil ; and the sounds, if intended for preservation, are salted. After having undergone this operation, ^11 128 VOVAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND operation, the cod is next passed across the table to the splitter, who cuts out the bacJi- ho??e as V w as the navel, in the twinkling of an eye. From hence the cod are carried in band-barrows to the Salter; by whom they are spread, in layers, upon the top of each other, with a proper quantity of salt between each layer. In this state the Jish continue for a few days ; when they are again taken, in barrows, to a sort of wooden box, full of holes, which is suspended from the stage in the sea. The washer stands up to his knees in this box, and scrubs the salt off the cod with a soft mop. The fish are then taken to a convenient spot, and piled up to drain ; and the heap, thus formed, is styled *' a tvatcr-horseJ" On the following day, the cod are removed to the Jish-flalees, where they are spread in the sun to dry : and from thenceforward they are kept constantly turned during the day, and piled up in small heaps, called Jiackets, at AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 129 at night. The upper fish are always laid with their bellies downward ; so that the skin of their backs answers the purpose of a thatch, to keep the lower fish dry. By degrees, the size of these flackcts is increased, until, at length, instead of small parcels, they assume the form of large circular stacks ; and in this state the cod are left for a few days, as the fishermen say, *' to sweat." The process of curing is now^ complete ; and the fish are afterwards stored up in warehouses, lying ready for exportation. With such amazing celerity is the ope- ration of heading, splitting, and salting, performed, that it is not an unusual thing to see ten cod-fish decapitated, their entrails thrown into the sea, and their bach-bones torn out, in the short space of one minute and a half. :3m ■ « '1! 1 'tsi? 1;^ 11 ijiiifiy si . % ■ I II The Splitter receives the highest wages, K and i^ 130 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND and holds u rank next to the Master of a Fishery ; but the Salter is also a person of great consideration, upon whose skill the chief presv^rvation of the cod depends. There are three qualities of cured cod-Jish in Newfoundland. They are distinguished by the different titles of — Merchantable Jish : those of the largest size, best colour, and altogether finest quality. Madeira fish ; which are nearly as valu- able as the former. This sort is chiefly ex- ported to supply the Spanish and Portuguese markets. ffest- India fish : the refuse of the whole. These hist are invariably sent for sale, to feed the Ncsroes of the Caribhee Islands. In the principal harbours of Newfound- land and Labrador, there are sworn wnpires, appointed for the purpose of arbitrating AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 131 arbitrating between buyer and sellcTt to ascertain correctly the different qualities of the Jish, and to regulate the respective prices of each. It has already been observed, that the cod are taken by hooks, baited either with capelin or herrings. The latter is a kind of fish well known in Europe ; but the capelin seem to be peculiar to the coasts of New- foundland and Labrador. As they are equally plentiful with the cod in those countries, and are, as a bait, so essentially necessary towards obtaining the latter, a short account of them may not be unac- ceptable to the reader ; particularly as these fish have been strangely overlooked by the most distinguished naturalists. The capelin is a small and delicate species of fish, greatly resembling the smelt. It visits the shores we are describing about the K li months ? ^ ■ ir,2 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND months of August and September, for the evident purpose of depositing its spawn upon the sandy beaches. At such times, the swarms of these fish are so numerous, that thev darken the surface of the sea for miles in ext^t, whilst the cod prey upon them with the utmost voracity. The man- ner of the capelins depositing its spawn is one of the most curious circumstances attending its natural history. The male fishes are somewhat larger than the female, and are provided also with a sort of ridge, projecting on each side of their back-bones, similar to the eaves of a house, in which the female capelin is deficient. The latter, on approaching the beach to deposit its spawn, is attended by two male fishes, who huddle the female between them, until her whole body is concealed under the project- ing ridges before mentioned, and only her head is visible. In this state they run, all three together, with great swiftness, upon the AND TH£ COAST OF LABRADOR. 133 the sands ; when the males, by some im- perceptible inherent power, compress the body of the female betwixt their own, so as to expel the spawn from an oritice near the tail. Having thus accomplished its delivery, the three copelin separate; and, paddling with their whole force through the shallow surf of the beach, generally suc- ceed in regaining, once more, the bosom of the deep. It is an entertaining sight, while standing upon the shore, to observe myriads of these fishes, forsaking their own element, and running their bodies on the sand, in all directions. Many of them find it totally impossible to return to the water, and thus the beaches of Labrador are frequently covered with dead capelin. They have so little timidity, that when the author has waded into the sea, amidst a shoal of them, he has taken two or three at a time, V : li ' mi' 134 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND time, in his hands. Upon these occasions, he was enabled to ascertain, beyond a doubt, that the evacuation of the spawn is caused by a compression on the part of the males ; as, when thus taken in the hand, the female capclin invariably yielded up its spawn the instant that it received the slightest pressure from the fingers. The capelin are sometimes salted and dried by the Jishenncn, and afterwards toasted, with butter, for their break- fasts. The Rosamond had quitted L'Ansc a Loup but a few days ; when the author, taking his fishing apparatus with him, proceeded, on a solitary ramble, to the trout river at the north- eastern part of tljc bay. He had gone more than two thirds of the way, when, on turn- ing round, he perceived a prodigious female hear, with her two cubs, sitting upon that part AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 135 part of the beach which he had just crossed. The situation was not an enviable one ; for the Fishery was nearly two miles distant ; the bear occupied the only road back ; the trout river terminated the advance in front : added to all which, the author was totally unarmed, and almost unable to move, from the effects of a most violent rheumatic affection in his hip joint. Under all these circumstances, there remained but one plan for his adoption ; which was, to remain stationary at the river, until the bear should choose to decamp. Accordingly, he pro- ceeded with his fisliing ; and, had it not been for the apprehensions excited by the gruff-looking savage in the rear, the sport would have afforded considerable diversion. At last, however, the bear and her cubs rose from their resting-place, and turned off into the woods ; while the author hobbled back to the Fishery, with a full. det<'rmina- tion never to venture forth again alone, without V n h m ii -.:.:n 136 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND without being well provided vs'^ith tire- arms, or some other means ot defence. Laiui iivju presents the most varied, and, in s(;mc ] - 'ces, the most majestic scenery. Near the sea, lofty rocks * cast their embrowning * The nature of the rocks of Newfoundland rcniahis to bo ascertained; more knowledge being actually posses^sed of the minerah of Lahhauou than of this island. The inattention shewn to this important subject is generally a discreditable characteristic of our own nation, whether in voyages of dis- covery or of commerce. The French were actually better acquainted with the mineralogy and geology of Nkwfounii- LAND, in the beginning of the eighteenth century, than wc are in the nineteenth. Baron Lahontan, who was Lord Lieu- tenant of the French colony at Placentia, in the observations prefixed to his accurate map of the island, tells us, that in Neu'fuundlA. M ■■■0 •1 Ii M 172 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND *' And this Bay [Flowers) is not three *' English miles ouer land from Trinity Bay " in some places ; which people, if they *' might be reduced to the knowledge of " the true Trinity indeed, no doubt but it *' would be a most sweete and acceptable *' sacrifice to God, The taske thereof " would proue easie, if it were but well ** begun, and constantly seconded by indus- ** trious spirits: and no doubt but God ** himselfe would set his hand to reare vp " and aduance so noble, so pious, and so " Christian a building.*" In another part, he recommends that a settlement should be made in Trepassij Bay, *' by reason those sauage people are so " neere; who being politikely and gently " handledy much good might bee wrought '* vpon them: for I haue had apparent " proofes * If^iiitbournt'i Discovrsc and Discovery of Newfoundland, pages 1 & 5. AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 173 *' proofes of their ingenuous and subtile ** dispositions, and that they are a people " full of quicke and liulj apprehensions. t" A set of ignorant and barbarous fisher- men were not capable of profiting by this advice, nor of foreseeing the result of an opposite line of conduct. Accordingly we find, that even during JVhitbournes life- time, they had already begun to plunder and misuse the Natives. To prove this, the author ^s compelled to make rather a copious extract; but as it throws considera- ble light o/i the state in which the original inhabitants of Newfoundland were found, by the earliest visitors of the country, it may probably not be v/ithout its value, in the estimation of the curious reader. ** Now it may be well vnderstood, there <( IS ]■ IbiJ. pagp 5. •■it SI m mm M '■I '< ]\ m VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND " is great hope that those parts of the '* world will jcekl seiierall commodities of ** exceeding worth, whereon diuers good " iiuploymcnts may bee made for great " numbers of his Maiesties Subjects. For " it is well knowne, that the Natiues of " those parts haue great store of red Okar, " wherewith they vse to colour their bodies, " Bowes, Arrowes and Cannowes, in a "painting manner; which Cannowes are " their Boats, that they vse to go to Sea in, ** which are built in shape like the Wher- *' ries on the Riucr of Thames, with small '* timbers, no thicker nor broader than " hoopes ; and instead of boords, they vse ** the barkcs of Birch trees, which they " sew very artificially and close together, " and then ouerlay the seames with Tur- *' pentine, as Pitc!i is vsed on the seames of " Ships, and Boats : And in like manner ** they vse to sew the barkes of Spruise and " Firre trees, round and dcepc in proportion, *'Iike it it <« AND TH£ COAST OF LABRADOR. i;r> " like a Brasse Kettle, to boyle their " meat in, as it hath been well appiooued " by diuers men ; but most especially to "my eertaine knowledge, by three Mari- ** ners of i Ship of Tapson, in the County *'otDeuon; which Ship riding there at •* Anchor neere by mee, at the Harbour ** called Hearts-ease, on the North side of " Trinity Bay, and being robbed in the '* night, by the Sauages, of their apparell, " and diuers other prouisions, did the next " day seeke after them, and happened to ** come suddenly where they had set vp '* three Tents, and were feasting, hauing " three such Cannowes by them, and three " Pots made of such rinds of trees, standing *• each of them on three stones, boyling, ** with twelue Fowles in each of them, ** euery Fowle as big as a widgeon, and *' some so big as a Ducke : they had also ** many such Pots so sewed, and fashioned " like leather Buckets, that are vsed for " quenching •}■ i: m ^■:M I i3,| \fG VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND ** quenching of fnc, and those were full of *' the yolkes of Eggcs, that they had taken *' and boyled hard, and so dryed small as it ** had been ))ovvdor- Sugar, which the ** Sauages vsed in their Broth, as Sugar is ** often vsed in some meatcs. Thev had ** great store of the skins of Deere, Beauers, ** Bearos, Scales, Otters, and diuers other " fine skins, which were excellent well ** dressed; as also great store of seuerall " sorts of flesh dryed, and by shooting off " a Musquet towards them, they all ran ** away naked, without any apparell, but ** onely some of them had their hats on " their heads, which were made of Scale •* skinnes, in fashion like our hats, sewed '* bandsomelv, with narrow bands about " them, set round with line white shels. *' All their three Cannowes, their flesh, " skins, yolkes of Eggcs, Targets, Bowes " and Arrowes, and much fine Okar, and " diuers other things t/iei/ tooke and brought •* aivay i'. AND THE COAST OF LABUADOR. 177 " mvai/t and shared it among those that '* tooke it ; and they hrotight to mee the best *' Cannoiv, Bowes and Jrrowes, and diuers " of their skins, and many other artificiall '* things worth the noting, which may seeme * much to inuite vs to indeuour to finde *' out some other good trades with them.*" From the foregoing it is evident, that notwithstanding all he had said respecting the propriety of treating the Red Indians with gentleness, yet Captain Whitbourne hesitated not to become an accessory to their persecution. For if he were not actually present, when the inhuman mari- ners deprived the timorous Natives of their food, raiment, furniture, and utensils ; he has expressed no repugnance against that cruel proceeding; nor does he appear to have • Conclusion to Whithourne's Discovrse and Discovery of Nnufouniland. N '.!! ,1, n lit U ' lit 1. \7H VOYAGE TO NeWPOUNDLANP have felt any reluctance towards accepting " the best Cannow, Bowes andArroweSt* &c. Still it is singular, that he slioukl have related this atrocious circumslance ; as a moment's reflection must have taught him, that Posterity w^ould inevitably judge ** the Receiver, to be as guilty as the " Thief." woul press able At a ever Europ cious most i From this time forward, Europeans were accustomed to treat the Red Indians with great cruelty, by shooting at, and hunting them from their peaceful habitations. It has been pretended, that they were induced to adopt this line of conduct, in the first instance, in consequence of some manifest disposition to violence and dishonesty, on the part of the Natives. Conciliatory measures might not have been attended with success in the beginning of their intercourse ; yet a persevering system of benevolence, kindness, and good-will, would Sucl lowed Native enmitj tiring have £ tackinj hatred! long at to be Indian univei AND TME COAST 01' LAnilADOR. 170 would not have failed, in the end, to im- press the wild inhabitants with a favour- able opinion of their new acquaintance. At all events, no provocation whatso- ever can justify the more enlightened European, in the manifestation of a fero- cious barbarity, that would disgrace the most ignorant and blood-thirsty Indian. Such a reprehensible system was fol- lowed by its usual consequences. The Natives imbibed an implacable and eternal enmity against their inhuman visitors. Re- tiring into the interior of the island, they have since seized every opportunity of at- tacking and destroying Europeans. Their hatred of the " tvhite people " contracted so long ago, still continues unabated. It appears to be the most sacred bequest that a dying Indian makes to his children : this hatred, universally cherished among them, is care- • N 2 ' ■' fully ill! 180 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND fully transmitted from father to son, through- out their generations*. IVhithournf. has said, that the French and J^iscayans found the Red Indians to be of a mild and tractable disposition. If this be true, their character has evidently been altered for the worse, by their short intercourse with the original settlers in Newfoundland. At present, they bear a strong resemblance in their manners to the treacherous BoshmenSf inhabiting the Southfirn parts of Jfrica. The Red Indians study the art of concealment so eiFectually, that, although often heard, they are seldom seen. An old fisherman of St. George's Bay informed us, that himself and a few others ♦ " No duration can put an end to their (the Indians^) <* revenge : it is often a legacy transferred from generation to *' generation, and left as a bequest from father to son, until an " opportunity offers of taking ample satisfaction." — Extract from Major Rogers's Account o/^orth America, A^'D THE COAST OF rABRABOU. 181 rges few :hers others had once approached a party of this people, near enough to distinguish their voices ; but upon hastening to the spot whence the sounds proceeded, the Natives were gone, their fire extinguished, the embers scattered in the woods, and dry leaves strewed over the ashes ! The Red Indians are not a numerous race of people ; and they are rarely to be observed, excepting in the North, North- eastern, and North-ivestern parts of Newfoundland. They inhabit chiefly the interior of the country, in the vicinity oi Fogo, Twillif?gate, and White Bay. Sometimes, however, they make excursions towards the maritime parts, for purposes of murder and pillage; and upon such occasions they are wonderfully expert in concealing their tracks from pur- suit. Fortunately for the European sctders, they have not acquired the use of fire-arms, and will never app each near to any person who is armed with a musket. Many 1, EW if h lit 182 VOVAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND. Many attempts have been recently made to open a friendly inteicourse with the iras- cible Red Indians of Newfoundland ; and the Government lately offered a reward of fifty pounds to any persoi: who should bring one of them alive to St. Johns. At length, a fisherman contrived to seize a young female, who was paddling in her canoe to procure birds' eggs from an islet at a short distance from the main land. This woman was immediately conveyed to the capital, the fisherman received his reward, and the captive was treated with great humanity, kindness, and attention. The principal merchants and ladies of St. Johns vied with each other in cultivating her good graces ; and presents poured in upon her from all quarters. She seemed to be tole- rably contented with her situation, when surrounded by a company of female visitors; but became outrageous if any man ap- proached, excepting the person who . _ deprived AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 183 deprived her of her liberty ; to him she was ever gentle and affectionate. Her body and hair were stained of a red colour; as it is supposed, by juice extracted from the alder- tree : and from the custom of dyeing the skin and hair, the nation has acquired the appellation of Red Indians *. ■ When this singular female had remained long enough at St. Johns to be made per- fectly sensible of the kindness and good intentions of the Eun>peans, the fisherman who brought her thither was desired to re-conduct her to the spot whence he had formerly * Beth anticnt and savage nations have manifested this propensity to paint or dye their persons. The image of Jupiter preserved in the Cnpitol at Rome was painted witli minium ; and a Roman Emperor, wishing to assume a godlike aspect, when entering tlie city in triumph, ornamented his skin in imitation of the God. The image of the Sphinx in Egypt is painted red. The antient Britons painted their bodies of various colours ; and Captain Cook relates, that the natives of Fan Diemeiis Land had their liair and beards anointed with a red ointment. m .'4 n 184 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND formerly dragged her away. The sequel of the story is so horrid, that it would scarcely have been credited, had not the author received it upon the testimony of many respectable persons in different parts of Newfoundland ; so that he was finally induced, however unwillingly, to give it his full and entire belief. The villain who had deprived this poor savage of her rela- tions, her friends, and her liberty, con- ceived, and actually carried into execution, the diabolical scheme of murdering her on her voyage back, in order to possess himself of the baubles which had been presented to her by ihe inhabitants of St. John's. By this barbarous act, the assassin obtained articles to the value nearly of a hundred pounds ; and it is said, that he has since retired to England, to enjoi/ the plunder of his unfortunate victim. The sufferings of the damned are hardly less enviable than such enjoyment ! Some AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 185 Some time after this event took place. Lieutenant Buchan, commanding his Ma- jesty's schooner Adonis^ was ordered to pass a winter at the river of Exploits, in the north-east part of Newfoundland ; for the express purpose of opening a friendly intercourse with the Red Indians. This officer succeeded in obtaining an interview with one of their tribes ; and from their peaceable deportment, he was induced to leave two of his marines in their company; at the same time taking two of the Indians on board with him, as hostages for their countrymen's good faith. A trivial cir- cumstance delayed the return of the Lieu- tenant beyond the time he had promised ; and the natives were so much incensed at his supposed treachery, that they chopped off the heads of the two Englishmen in their possession, and retired into the woods whence they came. The Indian hostages were re-accompanied to the shore by Lieutenant ii''' ml I'll .1 :1i \ ]%■ ' 'I I t' ■{■. ^Ui! 186 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND, Lieutenant Buchan ; but they had sufficient cunningtoguesshow matters musi have gone on during their absence; immediately, there- fore, upon being landed, they made their escape into the forest, to join in the general exultation of their tribe at this massacre of two detested Whites. On searching near the place, where the unfortunate marines had been left, their ghastly heads were found lying on the moss ; but the Indians had carried off the bodies. Thus ended fatally the only intercourse that Lieutenant Buchan^ with much fatigue and trouble, had been able to obtain ; and every prospect of a reconciliation with the B.ed Indians appears now to be entirely at an end. Such an event is, however, much hoped for, by many ; because, although the Natives are not numerous, yet they are sufficiently formidable to keep the northern \VD THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 187 I 'I northern settlers in continual apprehension and fear*. ♦ The author humbly presumes that he has redeemed his pledge, given in Chap. II. p. 51 ; and that he has convinced the reader of the falsity of the Able Raynal's assertion, that " No savages have ever been seen there (Newfoundland), " except some Esquimaux who come over from the continent " in the hunting season!" — Hist, of the East and West Indies, To/. VII. BooAxvri. ;>. 191. CHAP. 186 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND CHAP. III. FROM POUT SAUNDERS TO ST. JOHN'S. Sail from Fori Saunders — Anchor at L'Anse a Loup — Account of an Esquimaux Tribe — Horrid Sacrifice — Story if a Canadian Ladij — Seal-fishery — Final departure from Labrador — Nautical observations— Mount loli — Anticosti — Anchor at St. John's. W E had not been more than ten days in Port Saunders, when our watch at the signal- post gave notice, that a strange vessel approached the coast. We immediately weighed anchor, and sailed out of the har- bour ; when the stranger appeared under a press of sail, steering in towards the port. The Rosamond being a brisk sailer, soon overtook the other ship ; but our hopes of a prize were greatly disappointed; the stranger M ■'■■ \y AND THE COAST OF LABRADOH. I8d stranger proving to be merely a Scotch timber-ship from Quebec. It was now so dark, that we could not venture to re-enter the snug port that we had quitted ; and the Rosamond therefore lay at anchor all night in the bay, outside of the harbour; which affords a tolerable safe anchorage in fine weather. At the earliest dawn of day, we weighed anchor, and passed round Cape Rich, Towards night- fall, we again came to an anchor in the bay of L'Anse h Ijoup, There are many good harbours in the north'ivest parts of Newfoundland ; such as. Bay S/. Barbe's, St. Margaret's Bay, Old Ferrolle, Port aux Choix, and the Ingorna- choix Bay, already described ; but there are no fisheries established in either of those places, owing to the scarcity of cod on the coast. A tribe *:f i^ > !( 1!,|» ft ) 190 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND A tribe of Esquimaux Indians had been at UAnse h Loup since the departure of the Rosamond. They had encamped within half a mile of Mr. Pinsons house, and there were in all about fifty of them. During their stay in that place, some of the fishermen were present at the funeral of an Indian woman ; when, shocking to relate, the savages stoned her female infant to death, and interred it in the same grave with its deceased mother. This horrid fact was attested in the most solemn and con- vincing manner, by at least twenty people who had witnessed the transaction. The Europeans who were present endeavoured, by the most earnest supplications, to save the life of the innocent babe ; but the Indians laughed at their scruples, and pro- ceeded in their brutal sacrifice with shouts €>f demoniac merriment. It has been a custom of many barbarous nations ■ , i AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 191 nations to destroy their children, under peculiar circumstances. Robertson has treated this matter at large, in liis History of America. ** When twins are born, one of " them commonly is abandoned, because ** the mother is not equal to the task of " rearing both. When a mother dies while " she is nursing a child, all hope of pre- " serving its life fails, and it is buried toge- ** tker ivith her in the same grave*.'* The natives of Labrador are not totally defi- cient in affection towards their offspring ; but it is impossible for a widower to rear a sucking infant himself; and no female belonging to the tribe can undertake the charge of a supernumerary child. This difficulty first induced the custom of de- stroying them ; and the practice, however shocking it may appear, is not wholly un- precedented in the history of more oriental nations. Deformed children were exposed, to Robertson's History of Jmerica, Vol.11, p. 1-1, Book i v. > m ■ ■in iiil ■^m rli' 1&2 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND to the fury of wild beasts by some of the antient Grecians; and a Laccdcemonian mother hesitated not to sacrifice her own son, if, by any symptom of cowardice, he was known to have disgraced his country. We were much surprised, on visiting our good friend Mr. Pinsofi, to find a handsome female seated at the head of his table. The sight of a white woman was now a real gratification to us all ; and our officers were anxiously desirous to discover by what means she had been thrown upon th*^ savage territory of Labrador. As the stoi^ of this lady's misfortunes reflected additional credit on the philanthropic cha- racter of the worthy merchant, and gave us a faint notion of the inclemency of a Newfoundland winter, perhaps the inser- tion of it in this place will not be deemed reprehensible by the reader. The AND Th£ COAST OF LAfiRADOR. 103 The daughter of a respectable Canadian had married early in life to a Mr. E . , . ., the master of an English Quebec trading- vessel. In the beginning of December 1812, the ship of her husband quitted the country in which she was born, on its return with a cargo to Europe: but during its voyage thither, it was wrecked near BonneBay, in the island of Newfoundland. The night was dreadfully tempestuous; and with great danger and difficulty, Mrs. E. . . . reached the shore, in an open boat, scarcely capable of containing four persons. At length, however, the whole of the crew was safely landed ; and immediately col- lected whatevei' could be saved from the floating wreck, and placed the articles under a sail-cloth tent. i The winter had now set in with such rigour, that it was totally impossible to travel far in search of fishing settlements. o Under ! !1 ilJ <1 v.it 194' VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND Under these afflicting circumstances, it was resolved to erect a hut for the officers, and another for the crew ; by which means they hoped to secure themselves against the piercing cold of the climate. It was in this miserable state that the youthful and delicate Mrs. E . . . . lingered through a long and dismal winter, upon a rocky coast blocked up with an ocean of frozen fragments; and surrounded, on the land side, by snowy mountains and icy Yalleys. Both the lady and her companions were compelled to cut off their hair entirely ; which was so strung with icicles, that it became exceedingly painful and trouble- some. To add to the sufferings of this unfortunate lady, she found herself pre- gnant. The crew mutinied; swearing, with dreadful imprecations, that they would take away the life of her husband, because he had prudently refused them an immoderate share of the brandy that had been saved • from AXD THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 195 from the wreck: and the barbarous wretches even threw fire-brands into the hut where . she lay, although their whole stock of gun- powder was stored within its walls ! At length, the much wished-for season of Spring made its appearance : but instead of comfort, it brought additional misery to the amiable and lovely Mrs. E . . .. Hitherto the affectionate attentions of her fond hus- band had been the solace and support of her life; but in the attempt to land a few casks of salted beef from the remains of the wreck, the boat overset, and he was drowned ! Left thus destitute and friend- less, among a gang of desperate miscreants, she had still courage to resist their brutal attempts upon her virtue: and, as the Summer advanced, she followed them bare- footed through the woods, until they reached the Jishing settlements in Bonne Bay. She was here but badly provided with food or necessaries ; and was therefore o 2 easily 196 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND easily prevailed on to go in a small vessel bound for Forfenu, where she hoped to procure a passage for Quebec. On her arrival at Fortcau, she took up her abode at the house of a Guernsey fisherman. Mis- fortune still attended her footsteps ; and she was compelled to leave the house of this monster, to avoid his odious solici- tations. At this moment, Mr. Pinson gene- rously offered her (hat asylum, v/hich her hardships, her sufferings, and, above all, her pregnancy, demanded. By the earliest opportutiity, the good merchant procured her a passage back to her parents : he also defrayed the passage- money from his own purse, and supplied her plentifully with necessaries for the voyage. We afterwards heard that Mrs, E. . .. reached Quebec in safety ; and shortly after gave birth to a male infant, who still lives to comfort her for the loss of her ill-fatpd husband. AND THE COAST OF LABllADOR. 197 husband, and, it is to be hoped, will prove hereafter the noblest recompence for all her sufferings. During the time we remained at LAnse a Loup, the people on shore were busily employed in making preparations for the winter seal-fishery. As this proved even- tually to be our last visit to the coast of Labrador, it will not be an improper place to introduce an account of the method pursued by the seal fishermen for entrap- ping those shy and wary animals. There are two modes of catching the seals: the one is, by mooring strong nets at the bottom of the sea ; and the other, by constructing what is called *' a frame of nets,** near the shore of some small bay. The latter is the most-approved method, and may be easily explained by a figure. ,n- n Suppose I 198' VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND Suppose AA to be small capstans fixed on shore for the purpose of heaving the nets up and down, as occasion may require. BB, the hawsers leading from the capstans to the nets, cc, the water's edge, dd, strong nets running from the beach into the sea : they reach from the bottom to the surface of the water, ee, large casks, used to buoy up the outer or great net, which runs parallel to the shore, ff, small anchors, confining the outer net close down to the ground. The hawsers from the capstans being slackened, the smaller nets dd sink to Wl sight, make into skinm pieces AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 199 to the bottom, whilst the outer net remains fixed in its perpendicular position. Great exertions are then made by the fishermen to drive the seals between the outer net and the beach ; when, on a due signal being given, the people on the shore heave up the small nets dd, by which means the animals become inclosed upon all sides. From this moment the fishermen consider their capture sure, as the fears of these creatures drive them to seek an escape by the bottom of the nets, which is totally impossible ; and they have not sagacity or courage enough to leap boldly over the top. 4. ~^ k .■;!•; 1' 1 [ f i t i m ::;fl t'M When there are a great many seals m sight, the fishermen fire off muskets, to make them, as they express it, ** strike into the nets." When the seals are skinned, the fat is cut up into small pieces, and then melted into oil in large iron IM^ '4- Mi 1 r tfl,* h 'Mi iOO VOTAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND iron boilers. This oil, in burning, is not so offensive to the smell as that produced from whale blubber. The price of the seal oil varies according to the produce of the Greenland and South' Sea whale fisheries : the average price is from 4o/. to 5ol. per ton. The seal skins are exported to England ; where the furriers draw out the hairs, and leave only the soft down which is found underneath them. It is in this state that they are used by the ladies, as trimmings for pelisses; and, of late years, the most beautiful travelling caps have been fabri- cated from the same materials. During the whole of the summer season, the European settlers in Labrador are em- ployed in the cod-fishery. Their winters are occupied in catching seals, obtaining furs, making casks, building boats, con- structing AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 201 structing Jish-flakes, and in completing every thing requisite for carrying on the summer Jioheries. As it was now drawing towards the end of October, our Captain determined to take a short cruize in the Gulf of St. Lawrence; and afterwards to make another visit to VAnse a Loiip^ previous to our final depar- ture from the Straits of Belle- isle. Accord- ingly, we again left the coast of Labrador: to which we were never afterwards des- tined to return. Previous to our sailing, we had received a t'ein-deer, as a present from the inhabitants of Forteau Buy : the venison proved an excellent repast to us, who had so long subsisted upon salt beef and cod-fish. Wild deer are by no means plentiful in Newfoundi and; and are seldom caught, except in the northern parts of the island. Wc § ■ •>. 1.' ill ■5:ii ; <, I '1 J . ' ''' la 202 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND We will close this description of the Labrador coast, with a few remarks on the navigation of the Straits of Bcllc-isle. Ships intending to pass through this chan- nel to the eastward, should be cautious to keep near the Newfoundland ohore, until they come abreast of L'Anse d, Loup ; when they ought immediately to cross over the Straits, and, during the remaining part of the passage, sail close along the northern shore. The necessity of these precautions will appear, from a consideration of the following facts : First, there is a very strong northern in-draught into the Bay of Esquimaux ; which is likely to set a vessel upon Green Island, if she do not avoid the danger, by keeping over on the opposite side of the Straits. Secondly, after getting abreast of L'Anse h Loup, the southern shore becomes low and shoal ; and there is always a strong current setting ovc to- wards Cape Norman, occasioned by an in-draught It that marin patroi the ordin: LAND this geniu AND THE COAST OF LABKAUOU. 203 ill-draught into Pistolette, a deep gulf directly opposite to Cape Chufean. • V In sailing out of the Straits, towards the Atlantic, the passage between Belle-isle and Newfoundlanp by far the most pre- ferable. The oilier channel, between Cape Charles and Belle- isle, is generally choked by numerous Ice-bergs, v\ liich are driven, by the southerly current, round the south- eastern extremity of Labrador. .; 3 Mi It was in this bleak and desolate country that ' ooli first displayed those talents as a marine surveyor, which gained for him the patronage of Sir Hugh Palliser, and drew the public attention towards his extra- ordinary abihties. His charts of Newfound- land and the Straits of Belle-isle are, to this day, a convincing proof of the fidelity, genius, and discernment, that characterize all I: J 204 VOYAGE TO NBWFOUNDLAND all the nautical observations of that illus- trious circumnavigator. From VAnsc a Loup wc pursued our course towards the tvcst ; and on the day subsequent to our departure, we obtained sight of Mount Joh, a remarkable eleva- tion on the Labrador coast, which has before been mentioned, as separating the government of Newfoundland from that of Canada. A day or two afterwards, we saw the island of Anticosti, extending in a blue ridge along the western horizon ; and giving, by its flat appearance, an adequate idea of those extensive swamps and morasses that have rendered the island uninhabitable. In con- sequence of its lying directly in the mouth of the river St. Laivrcncc, and the coast being surrounded by very deep water, Antkosti dang( severe the Captair the yeal H AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 205 Antkosti presents a formidable danger to ^cssels trading with Quebec; for a ship may be stranded upon the beach, before her soundings give the least notice of its proximity. The Canadian Government supports one or two poor families who reside at Anticosti for the humane purpose of relieving shipwrecked mariners ; and these are the only inhabitants on the island*. iiir m '■> 'I ;'■'. We had been cruizing about a week in the Gi\\{ o( St. Lawrence, when we attempted to re- visit our old station at UAnse a Loup; but a most violent gale of wind from the north-east drove us back again towards the dangerous shores of Anticosti. We per- severed in our efforts, and buffetted against the fury o^ the tempest for three days successively ; • His Majesty's ship Leopard, of 50 guns, commanded by Captain Crofion, was wrecked upon the island of Anticosti, in the year 181 4-. nil 200 VOYAGE TO NEM'L'OUNDLANl) successively; but the wind seeming rather to increase than diminish, Captain (Aimphell was compelled to relincinish his original design ; and to the great joy oi every person on board, we bore away towards the south ; bidding a last adieu to those scenes which Falconer has so forcibly characterized : " From regions where Peruvian billows roar, " To the bleak coasts of savage Labuador." After a boisterous passage round the southern parts of Newfoundland, we arrived at St. Johns in the beginning of November^ without meeting with any inci- dent worthy of recital. the AND THE COAST OP r.ABUADOn. 207 CHAP. IX. « FROM ST. JOHN'S, TO CAPELIN DAY, AND BAY OF BULLS. State of the Capital — Vigilance of the Governor — Ship- wreck of hU Majesty's Ship Tweed — Sail from St. John's — Anchor at Capeliii Bay — Distresses of tfie Irish Emigrants — Exxursion from Capeliii Bay to Fcrryland — Surrogate Court — First Settlement ' of Ferrjiand — Present State f/ Ferryland — Sail from Capelin Bay — Anchor at Bay o/' Bulls — Description of the place — Return to St. John's. W E found the inhabitants of the capital busily employed in shipping ofF their mer- chandize for different ports of Europe; and many of them were also arranging matters for their own return to Great Britain. Small vessels were hourly arriving from the outports of Newfoundland, bringing crowds ;? .f >li- U 208 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND crowds of people, who came either to reside at St. Johns during the winter, or to sail in the autumnal convoys for England. The fisheries had now ceased; and numbers of the low Irishmen were nightly parading the streets, in a state of intoxication. Amongst the more wealthy classes, balls, dinners, and entertainments, had succeeded to the incessant and uninterrupted industry which occupied every person, without distinction, during the bustle of the Jishing season. Shortly after the arrival of the Rosamond at St. John's, she was dignified by the reception of the Admiral's flag. Sir Richard Keats suffered no person under his command to suppose that be held a sinecure situ- ation. Ths utmost activity pervaded every branch of the public departments. Ships of war were continually anchoring and sailing from the harbour; and the coasts of Newfoundland were scoured from north AND THE COAST OF LABBADOR. 209 north to south by the most vigilant cruizers. The onlj sure way to the Admiral's favour was by evincing the same indefatigable exertion, which he manifested himself upon every occasion. The naval Guard Officer was directed to obtain the most minute information from every vessel arriving at St, Johns; and to communicate the result of his inquiries, in person, to the Governor. In cases of reports concerning British con- voys being on their way towards New- foundland, or that the enemy's privateers had been observed hovering near the coasts, it v/as positively ordered, that the Guard Officer should immediately make the same known to the Admiral, without regard to any hour or time in which such intelligence might be obtained. In the execution of his duty, the author once had occasion to wait on Sir Richard Keats with intelligence of this description. The Admiral had retired to bed ; but in five minutes he p entered ■ p. I ' iij f 1 , r 210 VOTAGE TO NXWFOUNDLAUD entered the audience-chamber, wrapped in a flannel dressing-gown. With the most patient scrutiny, he made himself acquainted with every minute particular ; and in less than half an hour afterwards, a frigate sailed out of the harbour, in pursuit of the supposed American corsair. About a fortnight after our hoisting the Admiral's flag, a fisherman came overland from a small place to the southivard of St, John St called Petty Harbour, and reported that his Majesty's ship Tweed, Captain Mathers, had been wrecked upon the coast. This disagreeable intelligence proved to be correct; and the survivors shortly afterwards reached the capital in a dreadfully lacerated state. The following is a brief statement of the melancholy catastrophe. The Tweed, of twentv cuns. sailed from Cork AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 211 ■ • !! I from Cork I Cork with a large convoy bound for New- fo.ndland. Having, according to their reckoning, reached within forty or fifty miles of the island, the fleet hove to, awaiting the approach of day-light, as th« night proved dark and tempestuous. At midnight, the Tiveed was suddenly encompassed by terrific breakers; and before the least exertion could be made, the ship struck with violence against the face of a perpen- dicular precipice. A mariner's presence of mind acquires fresh energy from the actual appearance of danger. By taking advan- tage of the moment when a mountainous billow lifted the vessel to a level with the summit of the rock, the First Lieutenant and one of the seamen sprang to the shore, with a small rope in their hands. It was to the amazing activity and foresight displayed by these men, that the other survivors owed their preservation. A strong hawser was conveyed to those on the p 2 eminence. *: il r pi % i Isi. s;i|li % 212 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND eminence, by which forty of the crew contrived to ascend. Numbers perijhed in attempting to follow the example of their more fortunate shipmates. Irresistible bil- lows now rolled incessantly over the rope, and dashed those who clung to it with fury against the rocks. Several poor wretches quitted their hold, and sunk amid the raging surf : others had their brains beaten out, and fell dead into the water. Many with broken or dislocated joints were assisted to rise by those who had already reached the shore. All the Officers were saved, except the Surgeon and Purser, whom no entreaties could stimulate to try the frightful means of escape. One miserable wretch, who had not courage to quit the wreck, and yet dreaded to be left alone upon it, was driven by his fears to a despair bordering on phrensy: he drew forth his knife, and, bestriding the rope, threatened instant death to any person who should endeavour to AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 213 to pass. This was no moment to expostulate with a madman : he was instantly felled by a blow on the head ; and the most daring rushed forward, to attempt the ascent. Shortly afterwards, a mountainous wave rolled over the ship, and bore the wreck into deeper water, where it instantly dis- appeared ! Of one hundred and twenty souls, sixty were thus hurried into eternity in an instant. The survivors passed the remainder of that dreadful night in the cavity of a rock ; where the Captain, Officers, and seamen, lay huddled together in one heap, to avoid being frozen to death. The rain fell in torrents, and instantly congealed upon their garments. The intense cold added greater pain to the agony of their wounds ; and many were afterwards deprived of their fingers and toes, owing to the same cause. Of UM \'- ft '.ill! 214 VOVAOE TO NEWFOUNDLAND OftheTweecTs convoy, the whole escaped, excepting the Southampton, a very fine merchant ship, laden with provisions. The crew of the latter were saved; but they after- wards underwent hardships, even greater than those experienced by the survivors from the wreck of the Tweed. Such are the dangers to which all vessels are liable, in navigating the coast of New- foundland. The insertion of the fore- going melancholy facts will better illustrate the truth of this observation, than a mere warning sentence, which may be more easily forgotten or overlooked. A short time after the loss of his Majesty's ship Tweed, our Captain was appointed Surrogate for the Chief Justice of St. Johns; and one of the midshipmen was sworn in to officiate as constable or clerk. The adjustment of all cases connected with the Jisheries AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 215 fisheries is usually confided to an officer of the navy, who annually visits the out- harbours for this purpose. The Admiral always selects the best-informed Captain for the fulfilment of this arduous service ; and the Surrogate has power to levy fines under the amount of fifty or sixty pounds. ill We sailed therefore from St. Johns about the middle of November, upon a judiciary excursion to some of the south»eastern ports of Newfoundland. Towards the first evening after our quitting the capital, we met with his Majesty's ship Pheasant; and as the Captain of that ship had no specific destinatidn, he accompanied us, for a short distance, on our voyage. The emulation displayed by these two commanders would have afforded a con- siderable ! .. f U^:t ). 1 I *' time heere is so faire, so warme, and of " so good a temperature, that it produceth ** many herbes and plants very wholesome, " medicinablc and delectable, many fruit " trees of sundry kinds, many sorts of " Berries wholesome i' c ;e, and in mea- ** sure most abundan, in a> much as many '* sorts of birds akui leasts are relieued ** with them in tiir of Winter, and where- " of with further experience I truste to " finde some for the turne of Dyers." — " Our high leuels of Land are adorned " with Woods, both faire and seemely to ** behold, and greene all Winter. Within ** Land there are Plaines innumerable, many *' of them containing many thousand Acres, '* very pleasant to see to, and well fur- " nished with Ponds, Brookes, and Riuers, ** very plentifull of sundry sorts of fish, " besides store of Deere, and other beasts ** that yeeld both food and furre. Touch- ** ing the soyle, I finde it in many places, ** of i t iH 232 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND *' of goodnesse furre bc}()nd my cxpccta- ** tion: the earth as good as can be: the " grassc both fat and vnctious*." Had the foregoing letter been dated from some one of the most fertile provinces in France or Italy, we might not have sup- posed the writer to be guiUy of exaggera- tion. But his description is both fallacious and absurd, as applied to the bleak and ste- rile coast of Newfoundland. Wc found, indeed, that the original colony of Ferry- land had increased in size to the level of a large and respectable English village ; but the soil around the place was slaty, and destitute of all vegetation. At a short di- stance from Ferry land arise lofty mountains, composed of argillaceous schisfus, which are bare, even to their summits. Beyond these, the woods, swamps, and quagmires of the interior . • See Letter of Captain Edward IFi^nne to the Right Honourable Sir George Calvert, in IFh'Ubournei " Discovrse and Discovery of Newfoundland." i AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 233 interior arc found to commence aiul con- tinue. f: Captain IVtpinc coulil only have been induced to make such a shameful mis- statement of facts, in the prospect of some immediate object of aggrandizement or gain. Hj must naturally have concluded that Sir Geonie Culvert would seek a con- firmation of his agent's accounts from persons who had also visited Newfound- land. The following passage in Wynnes letter evidently proves that he felt some apprehensions of being detected in his imposture. ** The Vines that came from Plimmouth, * doe prosper very well: nay, it is to be assured, that any thing that growes in England, will grow and prosper very '• well here: whereby it plainely appeares ** vnto your Honour, what manner of *' Countrev it (( Mi'iii ii ill 234 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND * Countrey the same is. Therefore it may ' please you fo giue credit vnto no man that * shall seeme to vrge the contrary . And for * my part, seeing that by the prouidence * of God and your Honours meere fauour ' towards ine, this imployment is falne to * my lot, 1 trust that neither Gods grace in * me, nor the experience that I haue gained * by the trauels of my youth, will suffer * me to wrong your Honour. Farre be it ' from mee to goe about fo betray you and * my Countrey, as others haue done that * have beene imployed in the hke trust." — ' I trust alsoj that what I haue vntl-jrtaken ' either by word or writing, will bcc found * the Characters cf a true and zealous * minde, wholy deuotcd vnto your Honours * seruice, the good of my poore distressed * Countrimen, and to the aduancement oi ' Gods glory." Had this man been perfectly at ease, respecting i AND THE COAST OF LABHAnOR. 235 respecting thcrectitiuleof his principles, and the accuracy of his reports, he would have been less solicitous in thus fencing the truth of his statement with specious assurances. Observing very little else worth notice in Ferryland, we returned on board in the evening; and the following morning the Rosamond sailed from Ciipdhi Jiay. On leaving this port, the coast towards the south appears to be split into a number of deep cracks ; the fissures of which form a line of noble harbours, extending the whole distance from Cape Race to Ferryland Head. Amongst the most conspicuous of these, we may enumerate Ilenowes, Fermowes, and Aquafort, Towards the north of Capelin Bay rises the majestic promontory of Cape Broyle ; and ^arther on, the coast exhibits a flat wall of rock, until, again trending inwi^rds, it 236 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND if forms JVitless Bay, where there lies a dangerous ledge of sunken rocks. The course from Cape Broyle to the south head of the Bay of Bulls is exactly north- north-east half cast; and the distance is about five leagues. There arc a few small islands lying along-shore between those two places, the most considerable of which are, Foxes, Gull, and Green islands. We anchored in the Bay of Bulls on the morning subsequent to our leaving Capelin Bay ; and our Captain immediately went on shore, to hold a Surrogate Court for the administration of justice. The distance between the two promon- tories forming the Bay of Bulls is not more than a mile and a quarter, or thereabouts ; and from those capes the bay runs in, west- north-west, for nearly two miles. On the north AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 23/ north side there is a projection of land, called Bread and Cheese Point, with a sunken rock lying off, at the distance of three luindred and sixty- (ive yards. Every other part of the port is perfectly free from obstruction or danger. A ship of war, entering the Bay of Bulls, should anchor a little within the Bread and Cheese Point, where she will find fourteea^ or fifteen fathoms' water; but merchant vessels anchor higher up the bay, towards the river's mouth, in from five to six fathoms water. Ships of war ride with about three points of the compass open towards the sea ; but merchantmen lie with only one point exposed. i In 1 762, the French made a descent from the Bay of Bulls. They were commanded by Monsieur De Ternay, and rapidly made themselves masters of St. Johns, the capital of the island. But the invaders were quickly 238 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND quickly compelled to evacuate their con- quest, by an inferior naval and military force commanded by Lord Cohille and Colonel Amherst. The Jis/iing establishments in this bay can hardly be said to merit the title of a town, although they be superior to the generaUty of New^foundland villages, in cleanliness, order, and regularity. There is here a decent hall for the reception of the Surro- gate Court ; and many of the houses are neat and commodious ; but they are all built of wood, and weather-boarded. On the north side of the bay, several wooden quays project into the water; and many light merchant vessels were busily em- ployed alongside of them. Ships bound from hence to Europe, take on board about half their cargo at the quays, when they are compelled by the shoalness of the water to haul out farther into the bay, and AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. "239 and the remaining part of their burthen is conveyed on board by large boats. I'.; In len iny Im- ind ird len of The day after our arrival at the Bay of Bulls, the author, accompanied by a few of his brother officers, proceeded upon a shooting excursion into the country. After roaming for a considerable distance through woods and by the shores of small lakes, we came at length to an open swampy plain covered with furze and prickly shrubs. Here we found the partridges so numerous, that wc each shot five or six brace, without the aid of dogs. Towards evening we returned to the ship, completely exhausted by our long ramble through the woods and morasses of the interior. The following morning we sailed from the Bay of Bulls, with a slight breeze at the south-cast: and our Captain being very anxious to get back again to St. John's, we ran in, and anchored there at midnight. 240 VOYAGE TO NEWPOUNDLAKD CHAP. X. FROM ST. JOHN'S TO ENGLAND. Anxicly of the Crcu. — Preparations for sailing — Custom respecting Passensjc'-- — Desultory Observations — Sail from St. John's — f . . ! from the Admiral — Dispositions for Defence — Storm — Part from the Convoy — Colonel Grant — Finesse of a Frenchman — Prize — Anchor at Spithead. It was ovv tiic beginning of December, and winter began to set in with great rigour. The anxiety of our officers and seamen to return to England was augment- ing daily ; and their apprehensions had been much excited, by a report of the Rosamomrs liaving been selected by the Admiral to lie at an out-harbour until the following spring. In fact, Sir Richard Keats had such a measure in contemplation; as I AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 241 bcVy reat and nt- had the the the ard on; as as he very justly thought it necessary to station a respectable naval forc( for the protection of the island, in consequence of the boldness displayed by some of the American squadrons. His Majesty's frigate the Crescent was tlirrefore ordered to winter in St. Johns Harbour ; his Ma- jesty's ship Pheasant, at Ferryland; and our ship was to have been sent for the same purpose to Placentia; but, in conse- quence of some severe domestic calamitieb' having occurred in the family of our worthy Captain, the Admiral kindly^ con- sented that we should return with hin- to England, provided any other man of war could be found to suppl he place of the Rosamond. Day succeeded day,, and no other vessel arrived : and as the Admiral's convoy was now nearly ready for departure, we began to give up all hope of leaving the country ; R when. Hi (2.') : ■A \P 242 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND when, to our great joy, we were awakened one night by the firing of guns at the har- bour's mouth. We all conjectured that a fresh ship had arrived from England, to succeed the Rosamotid : nor were we dis- appointed ; the reports were found to pro- ceed from the guns of his Majesty's ship Prometheus; and on the following morn- ing we began, with great alacrity, to pre- pare for leaving the island of Newfound- land. It surprised us much, that although we had never previously received much atten- tion from the Merchants of St. Johns, yet it was no sooner publickly announced that tlie Rosamond was bound for England, than cards of invitation showered upon our officers from all directions. The mystery was however speedily explained. Some of us visited a few tea-parties, where we were immediately assailed by a hundred applications I n AND THE COAST OF LABKADOR. 243 'i applications from persons who wished for a conveyance in our ship across the Atlantic, Not feeling particularly grateful for the hospitality which had originated in such interested motives, we came to a resolution, neither to enter their houses, nor to receive any of them on board as passengers. We were however afterwards given to under- stand, that the practice of granting the Neivfoundland merchants a passage in King's ships, during war, had grown, from habit, into a sort of established custom ; and we therefore submitted to the recep- tion of six or seven interlopers of this kind, to avoid the imputation of an affected sin*^ gularity. ii'i< The foregoing description of Newfound- land will be concluded by a few desultory observations, that have been omitted in their proper places. K 2 A Committee 244 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND A Committee of Merchants at St. Jo/ms regulates the affairs of commerce, and makes appUcation to the Admiral for the appointment of convoys when they are required. While we lay there in the Rosa- mond, the President of this Committee was an Irishman of low origin, who had been a Serjeant in the nebel army at the battle of Vinegar Hill. There is a public Reading-room mSt, Johns, to which any subscriber may introduce the non-resident officers of the army or navy, who from thenceforth are considered as ho- norary members of the Society. The whole of the Ehglish Daily Papers, the St. Johis GazettCi and most of the British Monthly Publications, are here to be met with. There is but little religion in the; capital of Newfoundland ; but the inhabitants pro- fess to belong either to the Protestant or to the AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 245 the Catholic Church. There is a Church for the use of the former, and a Chapel for those of the latter persuasion. The coin of Great Britain and the Spa- nish dollar are current in Newfoundland; but there is such a deficiency of specie, that almost every merchant issues notes in lieu of cash. This paper currency is the prin- cipal circulating medium of the country; and the notes are from five pounds to five shillings in value. The enormous gains of the Newfoundland merchants has been already noticed ; and the following anecdote may serve as an illustration of the fact. During the time of our stay in this country, a merchant of considerable respectablity confessed to the author, that he should clear 2000/. by the produce of thcjishing-season ! — This asser- tion, of course, excited much surprise; but ill! i';ii Vr \ 246 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND but the merchant undertook, without the least hesitation, to point out the sources whence such extraordinary profits were derived. First. — ^The coc?- fish and oil procured by his own fishermen. Secondly. — The great profit on cocf-fish purchased of different petty Boat Masters along the coast, who have not themselves the means of conveying their produce to St. Johns. For the fish obtained in this manner, he usually paid about 20 shiUings per quintal, when the same quantity was worth 1 1. 12s. in the market of St. Johns; and if sent to Portugal, could be sold at 2l. 2s. per quintal. Third ly. — The profit arising from supply- ing the petty Boat Masters with provisions for the winter, clothing, powder, shot, and salt, at triple prices. Lw Fourthly, AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 247 Fourthly, — ^The produce of a \iivgt salmon fishery f amounting annually to two hundred tierces. Fifthly. — The oil obtained from the winter seal-fishery. f i l\ I These were the fertile sources of his gains ; his out-goings at the same time were com- paratively trivial, as the fishermen in his employ were, for the most part, paid by supplies of necessaries, on which the profits were so great as almost to clear the expense of labour. The convoy being at length prepared for sailing, and the Admiral having adjusted all Public affairs for the ensuing winter, we weighed anchor on the fourteenth oi Decern" her, and bade a final adieu to the Harbour of St. Johns. % 1| k % u During the first week after we lost sight of # IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y ^^ f/. 1.0 1- 121 UUU 1.4 IIIIIM IIIM IIIIM lllim 1.6 = — I.I 1.25 ^— ^ 6" — »► m <^ /: O / /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^^ ^ 248 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND of Netifoundlandy the fleet proceeded at a moderate rate, with favourable breezes from the north and west. The Admiral, in his Majesty's ship Bellerophon, kept his con- stant station at a distance from the convoy, leaving the regulation and command of the latter to our Captain, of whose nautical abilities he justly entertained a very high opinion. His Majesty's schooner Adonis, commanded by Lieutenant Buchan*, brought up the rear of the whole fleet ; and by the activity of that officer, they were prevented from straggling, or falling into disorder. We were enabled to ascertain, by our soundings, the precise time at which we crossed the outer edge of the Great Bank; and by a proper attention to this circum- stance, our reckoning proved to be tolerably correct. * This officer was employed, for a length of time, in survey- ing the Coasts of Newfoundland ; and he has lately been pro- moted to the raiik of Commander. AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 249 correct. Shortly afterwards, the Admiral's ship left us, and steered away in a more southerly direction ; so that the protection of the convoy was now wholly confided to the Rosamond and Adonis. As several American and French frigates were known to be upon the seas, Captain Campbell made the mos^ judicious dispo- sitions for the defence of his convoy. As the Rosamond mounted only twenty-six guns, and the Adonis not more than ten, it was determined, that, in the event of our falling in with an enemy's frigate, both ves- sels should instantly lay her on-board, and endeavour to carry the decks by storm. For this purpose, the necessary instructions were issued to Lieutenant Buchan : and that, in such a mingled contest, we might be able to distinguish friends from foes, each officer and sailor of the two vessels constantly wore white scarfs round both arms. f 250 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND arms, until the Rosamond and Adonis were subsequently separated in a storm, as will hereafter be related. We had parted from the Admiral about ten days, and were scudding along with a steady gale at the west, when suddenly the wind shifted into the north-north-west, and blew with such amazing violence, that the waves were tossed to and fro in all directions, as if the whole ocean had been boiling with subterraneous fire. The bil- lows dashed furiously against the sides of our ship, and, breaking through the gang- way boards, rushed, like a torrent, along the quarter-deck. At length this conflict of opposing waters was converted into a tremendous sea, rolling from the north- west ; and we were compelled to set our foresail and main- topsail, to keep the ship before it. The AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 261 The instant that we spread our canvas to the gale, the Rosamond appeared to fly along the deep with the rapidity of a sea-bird ; and it was with regret that our Captain observed his convoy lessening gradually to the view : but such a mighty wall of water rolled after the Rosamond, that it would have endangered all our lives if we had shortened sail, or waited for the fleet. li n We accordingly pursued our course for two days, during which neither the wind nor sea abated in the least. At the expira- tion of this time, it became more moderate, and we steered towards the south, in hopes of again meeting with our convoy. As two days elapsed, and they did not appear, we concluded that they must have passed us in the night ; and we therefore stood on in an easterly direction, although we never after- wards obtained a sight of the fleet. 'lit: & i'l *■■? fi'. We ^: VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND We had at last got well towards the cast; and being in the latitude of Bourdeaux, ex- pected every hour to fall in with an enemy's cruizer. At length, a large ship was seen on the weather-bow, to which we gave chace; and some time after dark, we came up with her. The stranger hailed us, saying they were English, and requesting that a boat might be sent to them. Accordingly, a young midshipman was sent on board; who soon returned, accompanied by an officer in regimentals, with a large pair of mustachios. This person requested a private audience of Captain Campbell, and was conducted by the latter to his cabin. Curiosity now drew all our officers towards the young midshipman ; and they eagerly inquired respecting the country, business, and rank of the gentle- man in mustachios. The midshipman said that he supposed the stranger to be a French- man, because his pronunciation had a strong foreign accent. There was much surprise ' and AND THE COAST OF LABRATOR. 253 i and laughter, when it was discovered that this supposed ybmgwer was one of the most distinguished of our Caledonian heroes ; in fact, no less a personage than the gallant Colonel Grant*, Aid-de-camp to his Royal Highness the Prince Regent. This officer had sailed from Spain, in a ship hound for England, immediately subsequent to the memorable battle of the Pyrenees; but in entering the British Channel, he had been captured by two French frigates, at that time cruizing near Scilly. The Frenchmen had taken and destroyed a great number of vessels, and their ships were much en- cumbered with prisoners. Fortunately for Colonel Grant, they therefore selected his vessel to answer the purpose of a cartel, into which they huddled the whole of their Ewg/is^ captives. By their so easily releasing Colonel Grant, it is not at all probable that they • This officer has since been promoted to the rank of a General. iir t i it ,!i:' :ii': 254 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND they were aware of his high rank in the British army. But to return to the cause which had induced this gentleman to visit the Rosa- mond. The Colonel had seized this oppor- tunity of communicating, to a naval com- mander, the weak and inefficient state of the enemy's frigates*. He had also a complaint to make against the Eng/ish sailors who had been forced into the ship with him. As soon as the cartel had been released bv the Frenchmen t the seamen broke open the ves- sel's hold, and plundered linens and cambrics to a considerable amount. These despera- does also threatened to run the cartel on shore, to avoid being impressed on board a man of war ; and to complete their mis- conduct, they fell to work upon the porter and hams belonging to the master of the ship, •Both these ships were shortly afterwards captured by '^ritish frigates. AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 255 ship, which they wasted and devoured in a shameful manner. On hearing this account, Captain Camp- bell determined to strengthen the liosa- mond's crew, by removing thirty of the leading mutineers into her ; and this we accomplished before the dawn of day. Being thus stoutly manned, we left the Cartel ship; and at eight o'clock on the same morning we discerned another vessel to leeward. All sail was immediately made in pursuit ; and we were delighted to observe that the stranger also crowded all her canvas, as if to escape. The superior speed of the Rosamond had so far gained on the stranger, that at four in the after- noon we hoisted our ensign, which was answered by the display of a Portuguese flag. However, as she did not slacken sail, we continued the pursuit until it was quite dark, when we came alongside, and our Captain .;.IL i^ I 256 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND Captain hailed, '* What ship is thai P'' — ** Portugueza fregafa,'' was the reply. Hereupon the stranger was ordered to shorten sail, and send his boat on board the Rosamond; with which he at length thought proper to comply. . When the master of the vessel came to us, he shook Captain Campbell yery heartily by the hand, declaring, in broken English, that he was " ver glad tojind us friends r for he had at first imagined the Rosamond to be " von damn Frenchesman.** He went down to the cabin with great cheerfulness, to have his papers examined ; and our First Lieutenant was sent to inspect the apparent Portuguese ship. Whilst we were busily employed in securing our guns, and putting every thing in order, the First Lieutenant hailed from the strange ship, to say that she was a prize ! AND THE COAST OP LABRADOR. 257 prize ! The author immediately descended to the Captain's cabin, and informed him of this report ; when the poor Frenr/nnun (for such in reality he was) shrugged up his shoulders, and exclaimed, *'ylh vion Dicii! *' 'tis too true ; / avi no Vortugucza, hut a ** French prize bound to Bourdeaux.'" Upon an examination, the vessel in ques- tion proved to be a large and very valuable Fortugucze Brazil ship, laden principally with cochineal, indigo, cocoa, and drugs. She had been captured by a famous French privateer, called the Diichesme ; and was prosecuting her voyage to France at the time the Rosamond so providentially over- took her. When the First Lieutenant returned, he stated, that having found all the sailors in red caps, similar to those worn by the Por^ s tugueze 2.>8 VOYAGE TO NEWFOU.VDLAfTD- tugucze seamen, he had very nearly become a dupe to their stratagem ; but on looking into the main-hold, he distinguished a low moaning, as if proceeding from some per- son confined in a box. Searching farther, he discovered a man bound and gagged, whom he instantly released. The moment this poor fellow could use his tongue, he exclaimed to the officer, ** Dis ship, Sare, is " von Portugueza ; and dese rascals (point- '* ing to the men in red caps) are not my *' countramans, but French tieves, who ** stopp^^ my mouth, because dey 'fraid " me inform 'gainst dem.'* We were employed during the whole nio^ht in securing our prisoners, and send- ing provisions, water, and people, on board our prize, the Minerva. It was well we used such expedition ; as a gale came on the following morning, attended with so thick AND THE COAST OF LABRADOR. 259 thick a mist, that we were soon separated from the prize, and heard no more of her until the Rosamond arrived in England. i II A few days subsequent to this affair, we saw a schooner and a brig to windward, which we believed to be the Adonis, with one of our late convoy. We afterwards learnt that our conjecture was not erro- neous in this respect. At length, having had much beating about with contrary and stormy winds, we came in sight of the Scilly Islands ; and in a few days after- wards anchored at Spithead, from whence the Rosamond had been absent nearly twelve months. Our fears had been much excited for the safety of our convoy and i he Minerva prize ; as the enemy's cruizers absolutely swarmed about this time in the British Channel ; and Buonaparte, as a dying effort against our victorious 260 VOYAGE TO NEWFOUNDLAND, &C. victorious Government, had sent to sea all the French frigates that he could pos- sibly muster. We were therefore much rejoiced to learn that our prize had reached Plymouth in safety, although she had been hotly pursued by an American privateer. Our convoy had been attacked by a French S(Jliadron ; and the Adonis had escaped from them, by throwing her guns over- board. A survey was held upon the Rosamond shortly after her arrival at Spithead ; and as it appeared that her bottom had suffered considerable damage from the drift-ice of Neivfotindland, the Admiralty gave orders for her to proceed round to Ply- mouth, where she was immediately taken into dock, and underwent a thorough repair. APPENDIX. ACCOUNT OF THE WRECK OF THE TRANSPORT, HARPOONER, Near Cape Pine, in Newfoundland, Nov. 10, 1816. I'«ractetENDlX. 263 All that were able immediately got upon deck ; but, from the crowd and confusion that prevailed, the orders of the Officers and Master to the soldiers and seamen were unavailing — Death staring every one in the face — the ship striking on the rocks, as though she would instantly upset ! The screeching and pressing of the people to the starboard-side was so violent, that several were much hurt. About eleven o'clock, the boats on the deck were washed overboard by a heavy sea : but even from the commencement of the disaster, the hopes of any individual being saved were but very slight ; and from this circumstance, combined with its appearing that the bottom of the ship was sepa- rating from the upper deck, while tlie surf beat over her most violently, it was considered as impossible. From this time until four o'clock the next morning, all on the wreck were anxiously praying for the light of day to break upon them. The boat from the stern was lowered down ; when the first mate and four seamen, at the risk of their lives, pushed oif to th shore. They with iifficulty effected a landing en the main land, behind 264 APPENDIX. behind a high rock, nearest to where the stern of the vessel had been driven. They were soon out of sights and it was feared they were lost : but it was otherwise ordained by Providence. These deserving men, in scrambling up the rocks, made their welcome appearance. They hailed us from the top, and reported their situation ; saying, to return was impossible, as the boat was staved. The log-line was thrown from the wreck, with a hope that they might lay hold of it ; but darkness, and the tremendous surf that beat, rendered it impracticable. During this awful time of suspense, the possibility of sending a line to them by a dog, occurred to the master : the animal was brought aft, and thrown into the sea with a line tied round his middle ; and with it he swam towards the rock upon which the Mate and seamen were standing. It is impossible ta describe the sensations which were excited at seeing this faithful dog struggling with the waves, reaching the summit of the rock, and dashed back again by the surf into the sea, until at length, by his exertions, he arrived with the line ; one end of which being on board, z stronger rope was hauled and fastened to the rocks ; and APPENDIX. 265 and by this rope the seamen were enabled to drag many on shore, from the wreck. About six o'clock in the morning of the 1 1 th, the first person was landed by this means ; and after- wards, by an improvement in rigging the rope, and placing each individual in slings, they were with greater facility extricated from the wreck : but daring the passage thither, it was with the utmost difficulty that the unfortunate suflerers could main- tain their hold, as the sea beat over them. Some were dragged to the shore in a state of insensibility. Lieutenant IVilson was lost, being unable to hold on the rope with his hands : he was twice struck by the sea, fell backwards out of the sHngs, and, after swimming for a considerable time amongst the floating wreck, by which he was repeatedly struck on the head, he perished! Many, who threw themselves overboard, tnisLing to their safety by swimming, were lost: they were dashed to pieces by the surf on the rocks, or by the floating of the wreck. About half-past one o'clock on the afternoon of 266 APPENDIX. of the lull, nearly thirty lives were saved by the rope ; several of whom were hurt and maimed. At this period, the sea beat incessantly over the wreck, and it became evident the deck was separat- ing : and the only means of saving the distressed sufferers failed ; for the rope, by constant work, and by swinging across thes harp rocks, was cut asunder! From that hour, there being no means of replacing the rope, the spectacle became more than ever terrific. The sea, beating over the wreck with greater >'iolence, washed numbers overboard. Their heart- rending cries and lamentations were such as cannot be expressed — of families, fathers, mothers, and children, clinging tc^ether ! Tlie wreck, breaking up stern from midships and forecastle, precipitated all on it into one common destruction. Under these melancholy circumstances, 206 souls perished ; «nd the survivors have to lanient the loss of dear relatives and friends. The Officers and men of the Royal Veteran Battalion, who were returning home after a long and arduous service in Canada and other remote ditnatCvS, have now lost their all — -the savings of many ; ■! APPENDIX. 267 many years — what they had looked upon with a pleasing hope of making themselves and their familie; comfortable with, on retiring from the ser\iee of their King and Country. By this unfor- tunate event, the orphan daughter of Surgeon Armstrong lost her father, mother, brother, and two sisters ; and the wife and surviving daughter of Lieutenant fVilsonare left wholly destitute. The disaster was so sudden and unlooked-for, that not an article of baggage was saved ; not even money, of which some had considerable sums, the produce of their effects S!;ld at Quebec, which were paid for in guineas, on account of bills of exchange being attended with a loss of seven and a half per cent. : for immediately after the ship struck, she bilged and filled, drowning some, who, from motives of humanity, attempted to secure articles of dress for the females who were hurried on deck in an undressed state. The rock which the survivors were landed upon was about a hundred feet above the water, and sur- lounded at the flowing of the tide. Being high water ()8 APPENDIX. water soon after the latter of them were saved, it was found impossible for these distressed objects to be got over to the main land until the next morning. On the top of this rock they were obliged to remain all night, without shelter, food, or nourishment, exposed to wind and rain, and many without shoes : the only comfort that pre- sented itself was a fire, which was made from pieces of the wreck that had been washed ashore. At day-light, on the morning of the 12th, at low water, their removal to the opposite land was effected ; some being let down by a rope, others slipping down a ladder to the bottom. After they crossed over, they directed their course to a house, or fisherman's shed, distant about a mile and a half from the wreck, where they remained until the next day. The proprietor of this miserable shed not having the means of supplying relief to so considerable a number as took refuge, a party went overland to Trepassi/, about fourteen miles distant, through a marshy country, not inhabited by any human creature, and the way through a morass. This party arrived at Trepassy^ and J, reported ! V\l>l'EM)IX. 269 reported the event to Messrs. Jackson, Burhe, Sims, and the Uev. Mr. Brown, who immediately took measures for alleviating the distress, by despatching men in their employ with provisions and spirits, to assist in bringing forw rd all those who could walk. Necessity prompted many to undertake this journey barefooted, as the hardships and privations they were enduring were so excessively great. On the 13th, in the evening, the major part of the survivors (assisted by the inhabitants, who, during the jour- ney, carried the w*»ak and feeble on their backs) arrived at Trepassy, where they were billeted, by order of the Magistrate, proportionally upon each house. There still remained at St. ShotCs the wife of a Serjeant of the Veteran Battalion, who was delivered on the top of the rocks, shortly after she tvas saved: — the child and herself are doing well. A private whose leg had been broke, and a woman severely bruised by the wreck, were also necessarily left there. Immediately after their arrival at Trepassy, mea- sures were adopted for the comfort and refreshment of the detachments, and boats were provided for their 270 APPJiNDIX. their removal to St. Johns. This being effected, his Excellency Admiral Pichmore, the Governor, Major King commanding the troops, and the Mer- chants and Gentlemen of St. Johns, most promptly and generously came forward, in the most handsome manner, to the relief of the surviving sufferers. After remaining ten days at St. Johns, refitting the distressed with clothing and necessaries, his Fxcti- lency the Admiral chartered the Mercury , of Pookf to bring them to Portsmouth. On this melancholy circumstance, it is but justice to mention, that Mr. Joseph Briant, Master, Mr. Atkinsony Mate, and the seamen of the Harpooner, deserve great credit for their unceasing exertions : and to their labour, those that came on shore by the rope in great measure owe their safety. •.„.',,Jw'. y^ ^^ x-v The loss of the above ship was occasioned by an in-draught, supposed to be prevalent in all the ^u\is and hays o( Newfoundland. ^— .S. . r. . ivc ., THE END. Vr ATI'S, FriDter. Crown Cout1, Temple Bu, L'ted, rnor, Vler- iptly lome rers. J the Kcel- *ooley ;holy that late, ;reat their e in t d by 1 the