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MAR iQ3890 MtlllihAHT'S EXjDHAHGt : " .1. ii£^AHCl^^ ■^-<^:::^^^^(:;; P^K^t^OF^a OF ICE AND ICE MOVEMENTS IX BY ENSIGN EDWARD SIMPSON, U. S. N. UNDER THE DIRECTION OF LIEl'TENANf COMMANDER CllAS. H. STOCKTON. T. S. N. CoiiiiiiaDtling 11. S. S. "Thetis." WASHINGTON : U, S. Hydbogkaphic Office. 1890, iiaiilili iHHi g^^gg "" > •-* ^^pai.>» mf,f, . '.( Movements in Bering S<'a and the Arctic Basin is one of a series of vahiable rej)orts received from the U. S. S. Tfidls, upon the completion of her recent cruise in those waters. Those dealing with hydrographic information were publishe of the Thcl'm lias been as remark- able as it luis been successful in its residts. Henuv F. PicKiNc, Cajdaln, fL S. N., Utjdrofjra^ihcr, (8) REMARKS. In onlcr to make tlic oriiisc of tho V. 8. S. Thrfk, during the sumtnol' of 1, in tlic walorH of Borinji sea and the Arctic ocean as full and as useful lus [)ossil)!o, I directed several of the oHi('(!rs of the Thdin to observe and n'port uj)on various suhjeets connected with those watei-s and llu! portions of NorthweHtern Alaska visite Island, ' '7 JhTrmha- 7-% ISS'.K (H) 109713 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. U. S. S. "Thetis," Sitka, Alaska, Noveinhei' IS, 1889. Sir: — In olwHliriK'o to your verluil oixltM- to report on the suhjcH't of "Ice," as it is found in Horinj; wa and the Arctic (M-oan in the viciniCy of IJcrinj:; strait, and C'S|)e('ially with rojiard to its movcnicntH under the influen(!es of the prevailing currents and winds, I have tlie honor to submit the following report. In making this report, I have collectal data from the following sounds: The i-aptains of live steam whalers and elevcMi sailing vessels; the reiwrts of the "Cruises of the Corwin,'' in 1881 and 1885; "Little Joe" Tuckfield, of the Mackenzie' river; Mr. Leavitt, of the Cape Smyth whaling station; Mr. Wolfe, of the Cape Sabine coaling station; Mr. J. W. Kelly, of the Cape Sabine; and Point Mope stations; l'\ ]5irk (seaman), of the U. S. S. HoiUjern; Mr. (trey, of the PribyloiV islands; Mr. U. Neumann, of St. Michaels and Ounalaska; and the exix>ricnces of the U. S. S. ThetlH during the summers of 1888 and 1889. ResjMH'tfully submittetl, Edward ST>fi'soN, EiiftUjn, U.S. Navy. To Lieutenant Commander CiiAs. II. Stockton, U. S. Navy, Comniauding U. S. S. Thdk. (4) ^^miigigaufmmimtm ICE AND ICE MOVEMENTS IN '*, i88y. subjoot of Ik' viciuiCy iiikKt tlio :* honor to following \\\r, ves-sols; 5; "Little the Capo ig station ; i; F. VArk \V ishnuls; xiK'ricncos )N, . ^S*. Navy. hctifi. Bering Ska and the Arctic Basin. Report of the ice as found in Bering sea and the Arctic basin in the vicinity of Bering straits, and its movements under the influence of the prevaiUng currents and winds. General description of the ice in different localities. — The "Arctic pack" which nevci- inohs, ('((iisists of hard, lihic ice, miulc up of lichls of v'oniparativoly lovol ice, as much as \ mih\s in {lianictcr, wliich are snrrouncU'd and interspersed witii hnnunocks, (Vomj 20 to 40 led hifijh. Ah)ng the ed^(( of the pack "leads" are found rnnninu; into it for short distances in dill'erent directions; when the ])aek moves it goes in a body, and theso leads arc continually changint!;, opening and closing, so as to make it im{H)ssil)l(' for a vessel, once caught in the pack, to proceed at will. A vessel so caught is uninaiiageal)le, even should she esejipe being crusluHl, and all the whaling captains agree that, if it is found imi)ossible to get out before young ice makes, nothing can be done except to abandon her. In the spring, with the prevailing southerly winds and northerly cur- rents, the pack breaks otf from the shore ice and moves north, the northern limit of its southern edg'- varying in latitude, as will be shown further on, and is held north until the fall, when it again moves south. During these siunmer months ice melts, evaporates and disappears, so that, when the pack returns south, the old lee probably does not come below the latitude of ley ca})e in a body, unless it does so well offshore. I can find no record of the old pack being seen from the shore in the fall below Jcy cape, suc^h portions of the old ice that are found below that latitude being composed oC detached and nuich broken floes. (5) 'riio sliore if'o and flaw 'we \h thnt which rcinaiiiM fiLst t« the Hhore aHcr lh{! paclv moves ofV, and which j;ra(hially hrcaks utl'aml foUows (hi; pack in fl(K'H and Ihtchcr^jiH. It lau'on'e.s Hcatterccaranee of lot? in a few hours, making wide leads whore shortly In-fore tlu! ice was heavily massed. When young ice is making, it form: very rapidly between the cakes of tloc ice, joii'ing all in a solid mass, and liK-king a vessel, so caught, very (piickly. liarge, luunmocky floes, which drif\ or are foreet drifting flot^ ice or during temp(»rary settings in of the j)ack. These piit-es of ground iec> arc; reeogniziihle, when there is a currenl running, l>y the wake they leave, or by the height of the "overhang" of theii- former water-line above the surface of the water. Vessels, forcing their way through lloe ice, always avoid >triking ground iee, on account of the great risk of U'ing "stove" on it, and also the impossibility to move it. One whaling citptain descriin's makitig fast inshore of a floe of ground ice, showing only a few feet aljove the water, which was forced inshore by the jMick until it was as high as his foroyard. "Young ice" is the nam- given to new ice jnst forming. During cold weather, when the wind is light or calm, young ice forms very rapidly. In the vicinity of the pack, with northerly winds in early October, it can be seen shooting olf in forks from the eilge of the pack so rapidly that vessels, k('e})ing along its outer edge, are iiut of sight of the pack in a few hours. When not in the vicinity of the pack, young iee forms in spots, whicih spread out like oil U|K)n the water anung ice every year, may b(! divided into two kinds, viz, that which forms in the itiic aficr the piicU H-ctcHl l>y nil work icavv for -1. "it is ii-aiiw of ? uv wiw rapidly (M'kiii^ a al water, Iksc that )!- (liirii)g ice a 1*0 leave, or l)<»ve the strikiiij; II it, and deserilx'S lew ieet it was iXH Dtiriiifj; rnis very ill early the pack ' sight of k, young aiKi soon and then oreil in a f from 1 l'- Aivi'w. III barely L 3 knots ';'ung ice us in tlu; late fail and early wint(>r, and in teleseopcnl and piled into heavy nuiHseH during the shifting gates, aii, 1885, when the ship CUizelk tried to run out a gale hetwceu two ie. fliK's and was crushed aiu^ sunk. Or a ship may he dclaiued in this ice, a> in the case of the steamer /jV/r/V/c/v, which wa- nipped and drilled forty-three days in the ice in the western part of Bering sea. The heaviest patches of iee in Bering sea arc met in the s[)ring hy vessels otl'cape Navarin or north of St. Ijsiwrence island; and it is the iee that forms in the gulf of Anadir, where the strong northeast gales drive against tli(^ current and keep |)iling, grinding and telescoping the iee into heavy masses. Southern limit of the ice. — Although there is a tradition existing ill Ouualaska that one winter, years ag(», tiie ice came down on llu; island in heavy masros ; ami in January, 1H7utau island and in Ounimak pass, when several native boats were lost in it. The southern limit can safely be said to be in latitude 5G° N., about 35 miles south of St. George islaiul. Occasionally, as in LSSIJ, no ice is seen at the Pribylotf islands, but genei-ally after three weeks of north- easterly winds it comes down from the Uio itli of the Koskovine river in very much broken Hoes, and remains in sight, moving to the east- ward and westward with the winds, until the spring, when a southerly wind soon drives it north. This generally occurs in the latter part of April, although in l.SSO it leinained so late that an iron steamer, the Alaska Commercial (/ompaiiy's steamer fSl. Paul, unlitted for encounter- ing ice, was unable to elfect a landing until June 1. Whaling ve>scls, which are sheathed antl litte«l (or ice work, take the iee about April 7-1 o, although a lew do so as early as March 2o. Those \\'\ enter! 11}^ Bering sea by Ouniniak pass meet the ice in the latitnde of St. George island, wiiile those coming throngh Anionghta pass meet it in longitiido 175° W., latitnde 58° N. In longitnde 180° it is fonnd in latitnde (30° N. abont April 15. The most sontheru point I have fonnd vessels reporting ice is latitnde 5G° 10' N., longitnde 171° 30' W., on April 12, 1889 ; and several report meeting it in latitnde 57° 30' N., in abont longitnde 175° W., dnring the middle of April. The general contonr of the sonthern limit of the ice in Jeering sea is from Bristol bay to about 35 miles sonth of the Pribylort" islands, and then northwest in the direction of cape Omchinsky. Spring movements of the ice in Bering sea. — The movements of the ice upon breaking up in the spring are due altogether to the currents and winds; and as the currents are greatly aifected by the prevailing winds, navigators wishing to push north early should be influenced in their movements largely by them. While the pack remains solid in the middle of the sea, both sides are found navigable much earlier. This is due to the breaking up of the ice off' shore by local winds, the northerly currents, and the currents setting out of the numerous rivers. Whether the east or west shore is the most open depends largely upon what the ])revailing spring winds have been, strong easterly and northeasterly winds packing the ice heavily on cape Navarin and breaking it up on the cast shore, and vice versa. On the west shore the current .sets north- east well off' shore, and although its speed is increased or diminished by prevailing winds, it is seldo'm that the current changes its direction to the southward. In 1886, the bark Sat Breeze dymug a northeast gale off cape Navarin, furled all sail, made fast to a floe of drifting ice, and in three days drifted 45 miles to windward. Off cape Navarin the current splits about 30 miles off shore, one branch following the trend of the coast in a southwesterly, direction towards cape Omchinsky, and the other running to the northward into the gulf of Anadir and then off' to the northeast, running strong between St. Lawrence island and Indian ])olnt. In May, 188!), the bark Ahrahaui navker, when about 30 miles .south- etist of cajje Navarin, encountered a northeast gale and drifted in well towards cape Omchinsky in the southwest current. In the spring of 1887, the bark Hunter was nipped in the middle of the gulf of Anadir and drifted with the i(!0 out of the gulf and to the northward of St. Lawrence island, passing very close to cape Chibukak. On the ea.st side of Bering sea, between St. Matthew and Nunivak islands, the .set of the current is north. W^lth prevailing northeast winds « ititiulo of meet it in found in ivc found )' W., on 50' N., in a general ni Bristol lorthwest inients of i currents trevailing lenced in lid in the Til is is northerly Whether what the heasterly it up on :ts north- lished hy cction to east gale J ice, and ^arin the the trend sky, and uid then and and 2rt soiltil- in well liddle of \ to the libukak. Vuuivak St winds it sets northwest, and with northwest and southwest winds, northejist. This northerly current continues past the east side of St. I ^wrence island to King's island; from there it sets in toward Port Clarence, then fol- lows the trend of the coast past capes York and Prince of Wales, and into the Arci ocean. The current on the east side is not as strong as that on the west side, and north of St. Lawrence island the- west shore from Indian point to the Diomede islands is invariably clear of ice before the east shore; consequently Indian point is the first objective point for vessels pushing their way north in the spring. The action of these currents is as follows : • • Ice clears the Pribyloff islands about May 1. The pack moves north, the sides clearing ahead of the center, and vessels following the pack reach cape Navarin about May 10. Here the heavy ice, which forms in the gulf of Anadir by the young ice piling up under the influence of northeast winds, is nut coming out of the gulf This ice is set to the eastward by the spring southerly and westerly winds until it meets the strong northeast current, when it sets up into the channel between Indian point and St. Lawrence island; then the main body of it swings around on the north and northeast side of St. Lawrence island, where it lodges until the last of it breaks up and goes uoi'th during the middle of July. Young ice continues to form in Bering sea until May 10, and after that time it is not looked for. On April 12, 1888, the steamer Orca steamed for six hours through young ice in about latitude 60° N., longitude 178° E. It sometimes happens that vessels find a clear lead from cape Nav- arin to Indian point or St. Lawrence island as early as May 18, but this occurs only in exceptional seasons. As a rule, vessels that are deter- mined to keep the west shore follow leads into the gulf of Anadir, steamers forcing through the broken ice, and sailing vessels hauling through it with ice hooks and steam winches; the former coming out into chixr water oif cape Bering about May 2"), and the latter about June 10. When cape Bering is clear, Indian point can be reached with- out much difficulty. Should a vessel arriving near cape Navarin find the ice heavily packed in that vicinity, indicating prevailing easterly sju-ing winds, she should not be mislead by the space of open water that generally exists south of the cape, antl which is about 50 by 25 miles in extent, but shouhl follow the line of the pack to the eastward and try the eastern shore. By so doing she will probably find the edge of the pack in tiic h)ngitude of St. Matthew island, in latitude 61t° to 60° ; from there it will lead her close to the west coast of Nunivak island, from which |)osition she should work up to the southeast cape of St. Lawrence island; thence she may work along the south side of the 10 i 1 island and find clear water from (iape Chibukak to Indian point before the ice is o|)en from cajx) Navarin to cape Bering. It is useless to attempt to pass to the northward of St. l^awrence island from the cast side, as the heavy impassable ice, before mentional as coming out of the gulf of Anadir, exists there much later than it does on the southern shore. This eastern route is frelossoin and point Hope up to July 12. The current between these points runs rapidly, wirryiiig the i<'c along at the rate of fi'om 2 to .'} knots, and hanking it doselv together (xtcuding 10 miles off' shore at point Hope after the pack has moved off from that vi to May 25, and moves off and (iloses in again with changing winds, gradually working off to the northward and westward. Young ice forms in the spaces thus left to about 5 inches in thickness, and gradually gets thinner until it disap- pears about May 15. The time of dejiarture of the shore ice varies greatly. In LSSO it movgd off" July 13, and in 1889, June 14. By following the shore ice, natives make the trij) from point Hope to Cxipe Lisburne in canoes as early as June 1, but it is not safe for vessels to enter the lead thus made until the solid pack has moved to the north- ward. Drifl ice remains in sight until July 10-25. As the prevailing spring winds are southerly, there is always more or less open water close inshore in the bight to the eastward of cape Lis- burne after May 1. On account of the contour of the shore line and the banking of the Kotzebue sound i("^ around point Hope, with prevailing southwest v.iiids, vessels can break through the strip of drift ice off cape Lisburne and find an anchorage off cape Sabine before they can make the jioint Hope anchorage. Point Hope is the rendezvous of the New Bedford Whaling Fleet to meet the tender sent up with supplies. The leading vessels generally reach there July 4, and the tender arrives from «Tuly 5-10, without encountering very niuch ice. • Vessels have arri' (xl at cape Lisburne as early as June 17, and then again have been until July 25 getting to point Hope; but these w(!re exceptional cases, and probably illustrate the extreme cases of opeii and late seasons. Whales are seen off point Hojk' as early as April 23, showing tliat ice-holes must be plentiful at tliat early date. From cape Beaufort to point Barrow the \)av\< moves gradually north, clearing from point to j)oiut. Vessels cannot attempt to force it, but fellow (;losely, being cautious not to get between it and the shore 'we, A shift "f wind to the westward brings the pack in on shore wli'ii a few !' I i 14 liollrs befofo it was -out of sight from the land. Off shore tlie pack moves to the northward more sU)wly. The current setting along the Siberian shore changes to the northward and sets up toward Herald island at the rate of ahont 1 knot an liour, carrying the ice up in that direction, so that late in the fall it has formed a ga|) in the pa(!k, extending about 30 miles north of Herald island, known as "the Hole." The result of this northerly current and the northeast current along the Alaska shore, combinwl with the i)revailing sujnmcr southwest and southeast winds, is that the center of the pack in this Arctic basin moves slower than the sides, and, with the addition of drifting Hoes, a point of ice is formed, extending well to the southward. This point is found in from longitude 160° W. to 170° W., and is known as "Post-Office point," as it makes a natural meeting place for vessels cruising to the eastward and westward to communicatt; and exchange news. On very open seasons, with prevailing southwesterly winds, Post-Office point has been found as far to the eastward as longitude 157° W. I have been unable to collect much data to determine the spring move- ments of the pack in the vicinity of Herald island. In 1881, which was an exceptionally open season to the westward, vessels were within sight of Herald island July 20, and on July 30 the ( hrwln landed nnui there, having passed considerable ice midway between there and cjipe Sabine. On August 12 of the same year she succeeded in forcing her way through very heavy floe ice and landed men on Wrangel island. In 1885, the Corwin met solid packed ice as far as the eye could reach, in latitude 69° 32' N., longitude 174'^ 15' W. Following the coast north of Icy cape, vessels always have to take more or less risk. If the pack is not far off shore it is liable to shut in for several days at a time on the different cajjcs, when vessels may anchor in the bights or moor to ground ice until the pacik sets oil' shore again. The dates of the j)robable arrival of vessels at different points vary greatly with different seasons. In 1879, about August 20, the fleet was 8top])etl by the pack at Blossom shoals; a few vessels worked around, and about 15 miles into the bight to the eastward, but returned within a week. On August 9, 1885, there was heavy drift ice on Icy cape, but vessels worketl through it, and, on August 10, anchorwl at point AFarsh. On August 14 of the same year the ice was packed in solid on ])()int Frank- lin, but vessels then between cape Smyth and that point lay safely under iXie lee of ground ice, and succeeded in getting south by August 1 'J, when 16 tlic pack lortliward t ail liour, as formed Id i.sland, t and tlio )revailing 10 pack ill Idition of outliward. is known "or vessels cxcii.inj^e ly winds, longitude ■ingmovc- 81, which ere within iiided men and cape jrcing her sland. In 1 reach, in .ve to take to shut in lay anchor lore again, oints vary e fleet was d around, 1 within a )nt vessels irsli. On nt Frank- fely under 1 1 9, when the pack moved olT shore with a shift of wind and cleared the Sea Horse islands. In 1881, Ahc pack was in on lilossom shoals July 21, and on July 25 it was in sight from the shore 25 miles to the southward of Icy cape, and the "blink" was strong to the southwest. This was an average season. In the vicinity of point Barrow, during the early spring, tlic pack breaks off from the flaw, or shore ice and moves off and on, young ice forming in the gap thus made until the middle of May. After the early part of June, when the pack moves off, it begins to take a northwest movement and continues to do so until it is gone. This movement, on and off of the pack, continues until about July 15, after which time heavily hiassed floe ice, much broken and closely jammed together, may be looked. for. The shore ice leaves the beach July 15-25, but remains in sight until the middle of August, or [)erhaps all summer. On excep- tional seasons the pack remains on the point all the year around. In 1879 and 1886, point Barrow was shut in. '; In 1888, the steamer Orca reached the point July 4, which was the earliest arrival on record. lu 1880, the pack was only 4 miles off the point August 25, when the first vessels arrived there. These are about the extreme dates of vessels arriving during seasons when the point is opjii, the average date of arrival being August 10-12. To the eastward of point l>arrow the conditions of the ice are very nuccrtain, and it is advisable for all vessels going out of sight of point Barrow to be prepared to spend at least one winter in the Arctic. When the pack moves off shore it does not proceed very far, and the shore and drift ice is found extending from its edge well in shore. The currents from the rivers clear the bays of drifting ice, and strong winds from west to northeast, by way of south, clear the pack from the different points. , Winds from west to northeast, by way of no tli, bring the heavy floe and pack ice dt)wn on the points, and vessels so shut in are very liable to be imprisoned, esjiccially should young ice set in before the .southerly winds arise. The current running along the west shor'j of Alaska sets off north- east from point Barrow, and to the eastward of that the movements of the ice are due entirely to winds, river currents and "witch currents.'' These "witch currents," which is the name given them by the whalers, seem to be peculiar to this locality. Some mention them as existing in the neighborhood of Port Clarence, but I believe these to be only 16 counter tida! t'lirroiits. " Witi^li ciirreiijs " are vi.sil)l(! on tlic Miirtacj' of i\n' water as swirls and chUIIcs, and are shifting and disappearing. Ves- sels in close proximity will be moved by these currents in diflerent direc- tions at the rate of ii or 4 knots. When the Tlietiti was moored to the ice oW Lion reef, large Hoes of i(!e, within a radius of half a mile, were observed moving in three different directions, and were api)arently tniiniluenced by the wind, their motion being entirely due to strong Iwal currents. At another time, to illus- trate the danger attached to these currents, when moored to gromid ic(! and riding head to wind, with the drift ice setting by on either side and astern, a large floe, under the influence of a " wilch current," moved rapidly at right angles to the general ice movement, and swung in around the stern of this vessel before she could be gotten out of the way, com- pletely eJielosing her in heavy ice. She was worked clear in an hour and a half; but had young ice been forming at the time, the situation would have been attendwl with considerable danger. Vessels have never been far enough off shore to ascertain if these "witch currents" arc peculiar to shoal water only, but they arc probably due to the changeable ciu'rents made by the eddies and counter currents in the wake of large bodies of ground and {)erhaps nicving ice. The winds to the eastward are generally local, and even when strong are limited in extent; and vessels well to the eastward have no way whatever of telling the condition of the ice to the westward of them. Those who are drawing enough to push on to the eastward, run con;-*d- erable risk, being guided to some extent by the amount of norths, fly winds they experience, of finding the different points closed by ice upon their return. The lo(!al winds affect the ice very rapidly. On the evening of August 10, 1889, the Thetis moored to ground ice off Cross island, the drift ice having a })erceptible movement to the westward. During the night a strong westerly wind sprang up, and by the next noon the ice was setting in heavy masses to the eastward at the rate of from 2 to ;} knots. • • Again, after being shut in off' Cooper's island from August 19 to 24, by the main pack, which had shut down on point Barrow, thirty-six hours of light breezes from KNE. to SE, moved the ice off shore and opened a lead to point Barrow, so that vessels leaving Manning point four days later than this ship, arrived twelve hours later at point Bar- row without being forced to ram the ice at all. .J A glance at the chart shows that Tangent point, cape Halket, Lion reef and Martin point arc the principal projecting points of the coast, I i 4 17 HUrl'iKH' of rciit (lircc- Hoes of" ice, c (lifforciit eir motion , to illiis- grouiul ice r .side and t," moved ; in anuind wav, com- n an hour 16 situation in if these probably er currents hen strong VG no way 'd of them, run con.^Jd- northtcly )y ice upon ground ice lent to the jp, and by astward at 1 J to 21, , thirty-six sliore and iiiiig point point ]Jar- ilket, Lion the coast, « and these are the jMjints where the pack is found resting. If they are found ch-ar, a vessel can procecij, finding the ice well broken and scat- tered along the bays in t'rjin 5 to 8 fathoms of water. Hy following this cu irse the Thdifi, in 1H89, reachetl Mactkenzie bay August 15, finding heavy floe ice off point Tangent, and later the pack; closely packed rotten ice off cape Ualket; the pack about 4 miles oil' Lion reef, and about the same distance off Martin point. In the bays, the "shore" and "floe" ice were found in greater or less (juanlities close inshore, except in the lagoous, until to the eastward of llcrschel island. It is not prudent for sailing vessels to go at all to the eastward of point Harrow, but when the ice is well open they venture as far as Tangent point. An exce[)tionally open season occurred in 1878, when the sailing fleet all reached Camden bay. The steam whalers go as far as the ice will allow them, their objective point being the mouth of the Macken/io river. As a general rule, they do not get farther than Return reef, and in 188S succeeded in reaching Manning point. In 1889, which was an exceptionally open season, they went as far as Shingle point, Mackenzie bay, which is the first time this has been accomplished since 1850, when MeClure and Coliinson were searching for traces of Sir John Fraidclin. •In 1887, the ice was only open for two days from Camden bay to the Mackenzie river sufTieiently to {jerniit canoes to travel. To the eastward of ITerschel island clear water is found across Mackenzie bay. The curr(!iit from the river holds the pack off, and all the ice in that vicinity is new ice formed every fall. This ice conunences to break about May 20, and by June 1 it begins to thaw aud the rivers commence running. The pack breaks off frou) -lune 5-15, aud the shore ice leaves Jidy 1. Northerly winds may hold it in sight of the land for a few days, but by July 15 it is out of sight. This occurs every summer, and the line of demarcation between dear water and drift ice, bearing to the northward of llerschcl island, is very pronounced. The natives report that this clear water extends of!' shore every summer 50 or (JO miles to the east- ward of the Mackenzie; river. At llerschcl island there is a perceptible tidal flow, the marks oil the beach iiulicating a rise and fall of from 2 to ;3 feet. l''rom .luly 15 until SeptcMd)er 1, Mackenzie; bay is clear of ice, then young m) forms, gradually increasing in thickness, aud breaking up and I I> I'lin 18 moviiif; of!" with variahli! winds. By Scptemlwr 20, it forniH to 2 or 3 inches in thicknesH, aiid by (Jettjhcr 1-6 everything is frozen solid for the winter. Northern limit of southern edge of the pack. — During the latter part of August and the hcginuiiig of SepttMuher the Houthern edge of the pack reaches its nortiiern limit, the sea to th(! southward being clear of ice, excepting occasional small drifting floes. The general line of the pack is from point Barrow, on the east side, to cape North, on the west side, and is very irregular between these points, varying greatly during different seasons. The annexed tracing shows the etlge of the pack as foiuid for the last five ycjirs and for 1871). From it we see that the northern limit of the "Hole" in the vicinity of Herald island is, approximately, the same, while to the eastward different seasons vary as much as 150 miles in latitude. In 1879, ley cape was the northern limit of the eastern end, and, this being a very closed sejison, the pack was little broken; 1880 shows an open season, and 1888 is a good example of the irregular line of the pack. Post-Oftice point is found varying in longitude from 163° W. to 168 W., and in latitude from 70° 55' N. to 71° 30' N. It shifts its position during the same season. Fall movements of the ice in the Arctic ocean. — Young ice forms earlier to the eastward than to the westward, and to the eastward can.be seen as early as August 15, making in a thin skim between broken and floe ice on culm nights and disappearing in the daytime. By Sej)tember 1, it forms to a'l inch in thickness, and after September 20, it forms rapidly. The prevailing winds are northerly after the first week in September, and soon bring the pack down to the eastward of point Barrow. As soon as this fall movement (commences vessels should proceed to the westward of the point at once. As a general rule, the steamers return to point Barrow by Se})tember 10. In 1888, which was a very open year, the steamer Orca came out from the eastward September 20, but this was unusually late, the latest on record. Sailing vessels cruising along the ice pack generally leave point Bar- row for the westward August 15-25, and steamers September 10. In the vicinity of ])oint Barrow young ice begins to form around heavy ice Scjitember 15, and by September 22 it forms in open water, making rapidly along the beach after September 25. By this time the pack moves close inshore, scattering ice being found along the beach illilill 19 Is U} 2 or .'} |ii solid for the latter Ini edge of [being cleiir line of the |)ii the west itly during for the last iniit of the , the same, miles in iastern end, ken; 1886 •egidar line from 163° It shifts g ice forms viin] can.be broken and September 0, it forms September, rrow. As eed to the ers return very open )er 20, but [)oint Bur- 10. m around pen water, H time the the beach about Septcral)cr 10. The young ice maken out to the pack September 30, and then the ice is in for the winter. From October 1 until December 1, the pacik is contimudly coming in and moving off, from 1 mile to out of sight. Young ice forms in the space thus made, which grinds and piles on the beac^h upon tlu; return of the pack. After December 1, the ice makes fast to the bottom and stoj)s grinding on the beach; a Holid, stationary mass, which is termed the "flaw," extending from 4 to 8 miles offshore. On the edge of this flaw the pack continues to grind and pile, at intervals all winter, being set in by northwest gales, and olV by northeast gales. During these offsets it moves from 1 mile to out of sight, and remains open from one to fifleen days, according to the duration of the prevailing gales. When these movements occur the pack goes in a body with the current. The curniut in the winter sets, as it does in summer, to the northward during southerly and easterly winds, and to the southward with northerly and westerly winds, except that it changes oftcner, generally running three days each way, there seldom being forty-eight consecutive hours without any current. The pack shuts down on Icy caj>e by November 1, and afUn* that time tlusre is no open water between point Jiarrow arid Icy cape, excejjt when the Haw opens. During (closed seasons these times may vary, but the above dates indicate the average season. I may here mention a peculiar case of drift, which occurred in the winter of 1888-'8{), which illustrates how the pack in this vicinity is constantly in motion all winter, and what different dir(!ctions it takes. On August 3, 1888, during a heavy southwest gale at point liarrow, the bark Younr/ Phanix lost her rudder and anchors and drifted oil' into the pa(^k and w^s abandoned. She wjus set off to the eastward and was last seen that fall 35 miles to the northward and eastward of Return reef September 11. She was next sightee another hole. The ice was heavy fhx! ice, frozen together hy young ice, and would have been impenetrable had not an unusual event cxvnrred for that sea- son of the year, in the; shape of a southerly jrale, which broke it up. This was followed almost immediately by a strong northwest gale, and selecting the weakest point of the pack, the vessels n)anaged, by ciirry- ing on sail, to forc(! their way out in the latitude of Hendd shoal, longi- tude 175° W., on Se|)tember ,'>(). The tracing shows that the arm of the pack, which was found extending to fhe sonthwanl Scptend)er l.'{, nuist have swung to the westward with northeJLst winds, and joining with the western pack, formed a double hole, enclosing the vessels. The other case in which vessels were shut in, in this vicinity, was in 1879. The barks Mt. WoUaston and Vif/ilant were htst seen to the northward and eastward of Herald island (October 10, and were carrifnl off in the pack, all hands being lost. Whether they were sjuit in by the pack or by young ice is uididly that after it had been decided to abandon the weaker vess•<>«■ Hcnild "Ice Mink" iitli lliroiijrii i;i(l (ll(H|(r|i( utiUvv hole. and would for that sca- >rok<' i( up, '^t pilo, and <1, In ciirry- lioal, lorijri- tJi(! arm of |)t('ml)('r !,'{, and L'S.SC'1.S, joining •i(y, was in seen i(lly that ■i of a ton n, and the I /r/ca Afar im\y HWOccvAvi] in gefting through the HlraitH, NovemlM'r 1, by carrying royals during a close; reef gale, and driving throiu;h the <|iiickly forming ice at the rate of i knot per lionr. These inslaiuscH show that young lee is more diingera(k in this vicinity i.s carried off to ihe n<»rlliward and westward, and if i-^ only a rpicstion of time when she will be broken Up iuid slink l>y the working and grinding of the ice. Ill longitude 170" W., the main pack seldom comes in a bctdy below latitude f)!)*^ S., but vessels coming south in the late liill usually en- coiiutcr heavy flow ice Ix'tween cape lSSfar crushed l)etween the pack and flaw, in siglit of and to the soutliward of Cape Smyth station. 1883: Jiark John llowland, stove off point Lay, was abandoned and set on fire at i)()int Hope. 1884: Steamer i>o?r/i