7 } riiin-ini. Kiiur.vii.u ,v IViiiliiiu. I .^ . ■ ' * ■ 1 ■ !" \ '•• ' ;•? MASMiV V. HA 1,1, " : ':Kri ^ -Nil ; \i\i' wn.LiV*' - ' ^ '■•; i: s ,' (^:- 1 , ■. V ;i''.'.^:« 1-. \y>)\., riiK- ^.Y^i^'o.-. ;>rui.N'. r'^i' "■ ■ f •/: ^K .. NARRATIVE OF THK SECOND ARCTIC EXPEDITION MADE BY CHARLES F. HALL: HIS VOYAGE TO REPULSE BAY, SLEDGE JOURNEYS TO THE STRAITS OF FURY AND HECLA AND TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND, \ AND RESIDENCE AMONG THE ESKIMOS DURING THE YEARS 1804-'Cll()wiiig' resohition was adopted by the Senate, on motion of Mr. Sargent : He^olved, That the Secretary of the Navy furnish, through the Siiperiiitendent of the Naval Observatory, a narrative of the second expt^ditiou to the Arctic Regions, uiude by the late Capt. C. F. Hall, during the years 1804 to 1869, said narrative to be compiled from the manuscriptu purchased from the widow of said Hall by act of Congress ajiprovcd January 'ill, 1^74. The Narrative has been prepared in accordance with the resoki- tion, and I have the lionor to transmit tlie same lierewith, accompanied by a letter from Rear-Admiral John Kodj^ers, Superintendent of the Naval Observatory, dated the 11th instant, and a communication from Prof. J. E. Nourse, who was directed to prepare the Narrative. I am, very respectfully, R. W. THOMPSON, Secretary of the Navy. Hon. William A. Wheeler, Vice-President of the United States. 1. lU i. I . United States Naval Observatory, Washington, January 11, 1879. Sir: I have the honor to submit, herewith, the Narrative of the journeys made by tlie late Capt. C. F. Hall, and of his residence among the Eskimos, during the years 1864-'69 ; which Narrative, by the resolution of the Senate of February 6, 1877, was ordered to be fur- nished through the Superintendent of the Observatory. I also forward the letter of Prof. J. E. Nourse, who was ordered by the Department to prepare this work. The Observatory is indebted to a number of scientific persons, Arctic explorers, and friends and helpers of the late Captain Hall, for essential aid in the collating of Arctic information. As its exclmnge list calls for the transmission of a number of volumes of each of its publications, I beg leave to ask that, if Congress shall order the publi- cation of this Narrative, as I trust they will, provision be made for placing two hundred and fifty copies at the disposal of the Observatory for distribution. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, JOHN RODGERS, Bear-Admiral, Superintendent. Hon. R. W. Thompson, Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. li T I " j U. S. Naval Obsebvatoky, January 10, 1^79. Admiral: I Imvo the honor to submit herewith tlie Narmtivo of the residence of the hite Capt. C. F. Hall among th. Eskimos, which has been prepared for the Senate, by the orders of the Department, under your superintendence and advice. The Manuscripts of Captain Hall's explorations, i)urchased by Congress, have been found to present a mass of writing in the form of journals, note-books, and even scattered leaves, exhibiting a large amount of close observation, the results of which the lamented ex- plorer more than once expressed his desire to arrange with his own hand and publish. In preparing the Narrative the aim has been to exercise a close discrimination in the selection of the material which seemed the most valuable chiefly in its geographical and ethnological bearings. The astronomical and meteorological observations, leduced from Hall's journal entries, are given in Appendixes I and II. Mr. E. W. D. Bryan, late of the Polaris Expedition, assisting in the preparation of the Narrative, under the orders of the Department, has rendered very valuable services in arranging and condensing the material found in the journals and in superintending the astronomical and meteorolog- ical reductions. Prof. C. Abbe will kmdly re-examine the last Letter. ■■•^^. - ■/ ' named. Through the courtesy of Professor Baird, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, and of Professor White, United States Geolo- gist, a valuable paper on the geological collections brought by Hall to the United States has been furnished from the pen of Prof. B. K. Emerson, of Amherst College. The two years preceding this expedition being years of severe labor spent by Captain Hall in preparing for the renewal of his earlier work which had the same objects in view, the Narrative commences with this period of preparation, and is thus legitimately linked to the objects of Sir John Franklin's Expedition of 1845 and to the expedi- tions sent out for his relief. In a Preliminary Chapter the results of these are given in tabulated form, with maps illustrative of the general progress of geographical exploration secured by these expeditions. I have to acknowledge the courtesy shown by Sir Leopold McClintock and by Admiral R. Collinson, R. N., in the communica- tions received from them ; the kindness of Miss Sophia Cracroft in returning two of Hall's journals which had been sent by him to Lady Franklin, and in the loan of a portrait of Sir John which has been repro- duced by the Bureau of Engraving and Printing ; and the receipt through the State Department of valued statistical information col- lated by United States Consul McDougal, of Dundee. The assistance rendered to Hall by his numerous friends is named within the text, from his own acknowledgments. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. E. NOURSE, Prof., V. S. N. Rear-Admiral John Rodqers, Superintendent. I -I > ^r™,. ,,,^^.^-:. - F-«;^.---^».-.j-^ »Kg>>.. CONTEJ^TS. . TABLE OF CONTENTS. OFFICIAL LETTERS Letter of Hou. R. W. Thon.ps<,n, Secretary of the Navy, to the Vice-PresWent U S lury oi tiio JNavy, lorwartling the Narrative. PRELIMINARY CHAPTER «.«ta..of thoz;a ::;::; x^^^^^^^^ -^^^^ Fran.Hn-Han. .-appeal" ana lecture LTsT^-^J^^^^^^^^^^^^^ c.noxp,o.tions.rtheN„rth.e^^ Parage aM .; IZ t^::^;:!^^. deaths-Arctic authorities, 18lil860 ......."..:. .7 .!." '"""*''" "' CHAPTER L PREPARATORY WORK FOR THE EXPEDITION. Skptember to December, 1862 de«.riug to prenent the Frobisher relics to the Fn„ii i , „ ^'""""**'' of U,. .l„„„„c, read W„„ „„ B„,„, Coosrapl,™. S«ci,.,y, L.L.,,-T ,XZ Pago. XI-L »-19 J u CONTENTS. CHAPTER 11. PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE— HALL SAILS FROM NEW LONDON. Dkckmbeu, 1862, TO July, 1864. Hiill lectures for hfs ]»cr8onal support and that of tlic two EHkiinns — His caro of these people — Deatli of Tiik-ee-li-kee-ta — Friends gained for the Second Expedition — Plan of an expedition snbmitted by Hall, March 17, 1863, to Mr. Grinncll and R. 11. Chapell, of New Loudon, Conn. — Hall's preference for a plan which would not include whaling — Financial difficulties — Embarrassments in forming new friend- 8hi)>8 — Determination to go out a second time, oven for an absence of ten years — Ex[iectatiou of linding new whaling-grounds— Correspondence on this subject with Mr. R. H. Chapell and Professor Bache, Superintendent United States Coast Sur- vey — Disap]>ointuient as to assistance from the Legislature and from the New York Chamber of Commerce — Failure to obtain a loan of instmments from the Gov- erument^ — Card to the public, postponing the expedition to another year — Hall resumes work on the "Arctic Researches" — Lectures before the Long Island His- torical Society — May, 1864, renews his appeal, indorsed by le.iding citiz.ens — Loans of instruments — Free pass''.ge tendered by Mr. Chapell — Hospitable reeeirtion at New London — Sails for f t. John's 23-44 ■ I CHAPTER in. FROM ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND, TO WINTER QUARTERS ON THE WELCOME. July 18 to October 1, 1864. Arrival at St. John's, Newfoundland — Departure lor Hudson's Bay — Passage through the Straits — Exciting capture of two Polar bears — The Monticello lands Hall at Depot Island and cruises for whales — A white man hired from the whalers — The Helen F. takes Hall's party toward the Wager River — Mistakes the latitude, landing them forty miles south — Tents set up and cache made — First meeting with the Inuuits from Repidso Bay — Inquiries made of them as to Franklin's Expedition — Change of the season — Removal of tupiks — The Innuits collect their fur dresses — Their fre- quent visits to Hall's tupiks— Snow-drifts— Wolf-tracks — Snow-partridges — Con- struction of au igloo — Winter quartei-s 47-76 CHAPTER IV. INTERCOURSE WITH THE INNUITS— THEIR FEASTS AND HUNTS. October to December 31, 1864. Hall's ministrations to the siiflfering — Their gratitude — Feasts described — Ebierbing aukooted — An aurora — Magnetic observatory erected— Sledge journey down the Welcome — Musk-ox hunt — A fox caught in his own trap — Customs in making reindeer deposits — A bear slain — Preparation of skins— Hall's seal hunt — Playing CONTENTS. • •• 111 the key-low-tik — Removnl to the walnis-gvouiKls — Oii-c-la's Innnit stories — Visit by !■■ natives to the wliiilc-sliips at Depot Isliiiid — Alleged reasons for advice given by the lunuits to Dr. Kao in 1854— Discovery that a day liad been lost in the reckouiug — Presents received from the whalers — Successful walrus-hunt 79-123 CHAPTER V. WINTER LIFE AND JOIIKNEY TO THE WAGER. Janl'auy to May, 18C5. New Year's Day— Hall's speech — Feasting — Brilliant auroras — He visits, with the Innnits, the whalers at Depot Island— Hospitalities and anuiwtnients on board — Return to Noo-wook — Shoo-she-ark-nook ]iersuadcs some of the Inniiits to abandon Hall — Supposed earthqtiake — Now orders of the An-ge-ko — Meteorological observations — Want of confidence in the iustrumeuts— Experiments as to the freezing-point of mercury — Severity of the cold — Difficulty in making records — Hall's brass tablets — Supplies nearly exhausted — Ebierbing comes to the rescue — Flocks of eider-ducks in the Welcome — ^Native customs in sealing — Nu-ker-zhoo's and Ebierbing's ill- success — Supplies of ])rovision, fuel, and light nearly gone — Plenty restored — The season moderating — Plan for sin-vey of the Welcome — Hall's broken health — The tides in the river — Removal to the Wager 127-1(54 CHAPTER VI. FROM THE WAGER TO FORT HOPE. May to Septemder, 186r>. The thirteenth encampment made upon the Wager River — A successful sealing season — Hall's own prize — Rejoicings at the first success of a young Innuit — Customs at the birth of an infant — Mo\ ing from kom-mtmgs into tnpiks — Appearance of the deserted village — Aurora — Journey to Repulse Bay — Refraction — Encampment on Oog-la-ri-your Island— Ou-e-la's dexterity in hunting — Game secured — The making of ook-gook lines — Clearing out of the ice — Ai)pearance of the whalers in the Welcome — Refraction — Storm — Treatment of the dogs — The tides — Death of Shoo- she-ark-nook — Mourning customs— Renewed appearance of whalers in Repulse P.ty — Captures of a whale by the crews of Hall's boats — Encampment near Fort Hope of Dr. Rae — Hall's uottw of the rocks, stones, and sand found on the ice, com- pared with Parry's observations Ifi7-193 vril IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. A 8ECCND WINTER LIFE— PREPARATIONS FOR THE l^RST SLEDGE JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. Septembeh, 1860, TO Apkil, 1866. PhiiiB for a sleilgo journey in tbo spring — Scparatlou from the Innuita — Ebicrbiug, Too- koo-li-too, and Ar-mon'a family rcmaiu with Hall — Hig interest in the deer-hunts — Danger to life experienced — An aurora described by Hall as scon from bis bed ou tbo rocks — Largo number of deer slain — Hall's reindeer deposits — Severe gab; — Too-koo-li-too's remembrance of the Brooklyn ladies wishing her to dress like civilized people — Exposures on visiting the deposits — Failure to catch salmon — Hall's daily subsistence — He prcioares skiu garments — Removal toNow-yam — News of the drowning of Ar-too-a — Feasts and amusements at Now-yarn — Visit to Oog-la- ri-your Island — Troubles with the natives— Reconciliation and encouragements — Temperature of tbo winter months — Frequent auroras — Readiness for a forward move to King William's Land 201-23.T CHAPTER VIII. FIRST ADVANCE TOWARD KING WILLIAM'S LAND-SLEDGE JOURNEY TO COLVILE BAY AND RETURN. March 31 to May 25, 1866. Start for King William's Land March 31 — Hall's companions — His exposure— Walks behind the sledges — Gale-bound — Innuit legends of the wolf aud the bear — An-koo- ting for Too-koo-li-too's sick infant — Uncertainty of the guides — Dr. Rae's chart folio >vod — Letters sent back to the whalers — Tardiness of the natives — Renewed an-koo-ting for the child — Further delays — Icing of the sleds renewed — The Sea of Ak-koo-lee reached on the twenty-eighth day of a journey once made by Rae in five days — Meeting with natives from Pelly Bay — Their accounts of Franklin's ships — Relics obtained from them — Intimidation of Hall's men by these natives — Hall compelled to return from Colvile Bay — Leaves a deposit at Capo Weynton for his no;, t journey — Buries Too-koo-li-too's child, " Little King William" — Arrives at Beacon Tlill May 23 — The Innuits agree to go back the next year 237-269 CHAPTER IX. JOURNEYS AROUND REPULSE BAY, SUMMER LIFE, AND THIRD WINTER. June, 1866, to February, 1867. Conditions necessary for a new journey — Experience with the natives of Pelly Bay — Arrival of the tribe at E-nook-shoo-lik — Hall goes out to meet them — Reception of their an-ge-ko — Their story of the white man's monument at Shar-too — The tin cup with paper in it which was thrown away — The skeletons by the monument — The CONTENTS. V superstitions of these people — Hall accused of briiigiiiK sickness ainoiif:; tlieni — The hanging of,thc old chief and his wife by their son " to take them to the happy laud" — Hall keeps the peace between the I'elly Hay and the Repnlso Bay natives — Settles some old feuds in his tupik — His sledge journeys for survey of the bay — Embarrassments in his work — Death of Ou-o-la's wife — Ill-treatment of women — Arrival of the whalers — Hall requests them to spare men from their crews for his next iourney — His assistance to the captains — The ships decide to winter in the bay — Hall encamps near them in November — Intercourse through the winter — ^The captains will not let the Innnits furnish him with dogs 273-290 CHAPTER X. SLEDGE JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK FOR DOGS. FEBnuARY 7 Trepares pemmican in his own igloo — Plans for a new sledgo journey to King William's Land ;Wl-374 CHAPTER XIII. FINAL JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND AND RETURN TO THE UNITED STATES. March 23, 18C9, to Septembkh 26, 1869. Hall begins his final journey to King William's Land — Route toward Pelly Bay the same with that followed in 1866 and 1867 — The cache made in 1867 reached — Safety of the stores — Deposit made for the return joumev — Encamps on Lake Tep-suk-ju-a April 8 — On Augusta Island, Aiiril 11 —Meets Pelly Bay natives — Peculiarities of the ice formation — Flying sledge trip to the igloos — Franklin relics — Hall's natives alarmed — Their fe.trs quieted — Musk-ox hunt near Simpson's Lake — Neitchille na- tives met— Conversations with In-nook-poo-zhe-jook — More Franklin relics — En- camps on Todd's Island — Graves of Franklin's men visited near Petfer River — Graves on Todd's island — Deep snow iirevents further search — Unwillingness of tho natives to remain — Return to Repulse Bay — Information from In-nook-poo-zhc- jook on tho route — Abundance of game from King William's Land to Repulse Bay — Musk-ox hunts — Hall's letter giving the results of this journey — Arrives at Repulse Bay — Plans of return to the United States — Occupations during June and July — Places the bone of his third whale and his musk-ox skins on the Au- sell Gibbs — Sails for the United States — Hunts the bear and the deer at Whale Point — Arrives at New Bedford, September 26, 1869 — Tributes of respect — Visit to his grave by the English Ai-ctic Expedition of 1875 377-438 r^^VM ■•' .piL-"^ HV^Ji "."ir" t CONTENTS. VI 1 CHAPTER XTV. ADDITIONAL NOTES— HALL'S TWO ESKIMO FRIENDS. Hall's two Eskimo fiiends-Ebierbing (Joo) and Too-koo-li-too (Hannah)— Their chil- dren—Joe's cousiu8—Tlio inscriptions in the cenietory at Groton, Connecticut 441-448 APPENDIXES I. Hall's Astronomical Observations 451-47.'> 11. Hall's Meteorological Observations 47S)-.5''.n III. Hall's Geological Collections discussed hy Prof. Benj. K. Emerson, of Amherst Col- lege, Massachusetts £)53-r)83 IV. Conversations with the Innuits, 1864, 1868, and 1869 587-611 V. Statistics furnished hy U. S. Consul McDougall m to the whale fishery, and the manufacture of jute at Dundee, by the use of whale and seal oil 61&-C33 ERRATA. Page 35, for (Appendix) VIII read V. Page 37, for (Messrs.) Poillou read Poillon. Page 42, for whaling brig read harque. Page 176, for Eggors read Eggert'a. Pago 2irr, for 80° below zero read 50. I ILLUSTRATIONS. 1 STEEL ENGRAVINGS. (Executed at the U, S. Treasury Departinent. ) Portrait of Hall (1870) Frontispiece Page. Portrait of Sir John Franklin (from an engraving loaned by Miss Cracvoft, of London).. .. xxviii WOOD ENGRAVINGS, PHOTO-ENGRAVINGS, AND HELIOTYPE8. Spoon belonging to Sir John Franklin xxiii Miniature of Franklin xxiv Sir Martiu Frobisher 7 Mr. Henry Grinnell, with autograph 26 Mr. J. C. Breevotn-t, with autograph 41 Harbor of New London 4ii Harbor of St. John's 48 Polar Bear of Hudson's Strait 55J Moving the Tujuks 68 Snow-partridges 71 Snow-knife 73 Hall's First Igloo and Ground-plan 74 Innuit Lamp 75 Eskimo Sled. «> Sek-koons (fur-scrapers) 91 Eskimo Games (ball and cup) 95 Playing the Key-low-tik 96 Key-low-tik and Kentoon 97 Dog-skin Mittens 107 Innuit Lance and Parts of the Same 119 A Walrus-Hunt I'il Walrus Head 122 Ground-plan of Village Igloo 128 Ground-plan of Igloo of Sledge Journey I'M Arrowtar 135 viii ILLUSTRATIONS. IX Seal-skin Hoots and Bear-okin Mittens 1:HI Ebicrbing going out Sealing l.M Innnit Harpoon-heads 16a Ivory and Bono Combs 177 Eskimo Dog IKi Too-koo>1i-t(ii> going out into the Storm '^i Deer-skin Gloves 2l'^ Repulse Bay K'a, and Kia Ornament 21H Ar-too-a Drowned from his Kia 217 Innuit Tight-ropes 218 Seal-tooth Omameut for the Head 219 Ground plan of Feasting-igloo 220 Eskimo Sled 221 Hall's Sketch of Now-yam Harbor 222 The Rent Cliflf 223 Aurora Sketched by Hall 230 Frauklin Relics 258 Franklin Roiics — Spoons and Forks 259 Bear-tooth Toggle 295 Hall's Lamp 297 luuuit Arrows 302 Bono Charm, Needle-case, Knife, Saw, and Bone Fork 304 Hall's Boat-log 324 Snow-goggles 343 Monument Built by White Men 344 Sketch of Monumental Inlet 345 Sketch of Tenting-place of White Men 352 Scraper to Deceive the Seal 352 Hall's Capture of a Whale :{C3 Snow Village 368 Setting out for King William's Land 378 Seal and Deer Skin Foot-gear 380 Sabres 390 Snow-shovel 392 Innuit Ivory Knives, Fork, and Spoon 397 Desk from Franklin's Ship, Needle-case from King William's Land 399 Innuit Stone Pot 408 Leaf from Hall's Note-book 409 Tablet for Covers 410 Musk-ox Horns and Ladle made from them 412 Horns of a Deer shot by Hall 413 Musk-ox Hunt 414 Hall's Grave 438 ILLUBTllATIONS. Pkge. . EmUjiuo Joe 443 Urotou, Coiiuu(ttiuut 440 Oii-Hc-^oiiK (Jcniniio) uiid Kud-lup-pa-nii-no (oounius of Jou) 410,447 flamittU 448 MAPS. Clroumpolnr Mnp, with explorers' names in the poclfct of tho volume, I'art of the Cliiirt furniHlied to Frunklin xxvil Supposed Track of Franklin xxxii Tlio Record found by McClintock in the Cairn xxxiii CircnnijNilar Map No. II — Geographical Discoveries since 1818 xxxviii Frol)iHlicr'H Map 15 Hull's Voyages to Repulse Bay oud return 65 UM'h Boat Journey, 18C5 179 Hall's Boat Journey, laOG 279 Hall's Survey of Ships' Harbor Islands 321 Hall's Jouniey to Straits of Fury and Hccla, 18ti8 340 Hall's Journey to Lyon's Inlet, 1868 307 Hall's Journey to King William's Land, 1809 380 SKETCHES OF COAST-LINE, DRAWN BY INNUITS. Armou's Sketch of Coast from Fort Churchi 11 to Lancaster Sound 225 Ou-c-la's Sketch of Repulse Bay 278 Nood-loo's Sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet 351 Oon-ger-luk's Sketch of Fox Channel 354 Oon-ger-luk's Sketch of Admiralty Inlet 350 Pa-pa- tew-a's Sketch of Lyon's Inlet 304 Papa-tew-a's Sketch of Pond's Bay 370 lu-uook-poo-zhce-jook's Sketch of King William's Land 398 PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. ■"I PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. Hall's three Expeditions— Purchase of his Manuscripts by Congress— Re^ olution of THE Senate of February (5, 1877 — The three Expeditions compared — Connection OF THE First and of the Second with the Franklin Expedition— C'oKirspoNDENCE WITH Lady Franklin— Hall's "Appeal'" and Lecture in IWiO— Tables of English AND OF American explorations for the Northwest Passage and kok the relief OF Franklin— Beneficial Results and estimated costs of these Expeditions, public and private, stated in a letter from Admiral Sir Leopold M elusions formed by Anderson, the Hudson Bayofflcer, previous to that period. 1 am now sui)po8ing that two sets of Esquimaux gave contradic- tory evidence on this point, but I perceive it was the same man whose name was given by IMr Hall, who gave the contradictory information to the two parties. — Is tliis the case, or has D'. Eae misunderstood him or Hall? Who was his authority for saying that the records are buried in a vault (that is, I suppose, a hole dug for the purpose) near Point Vic- tory ? Could the Esquimaux point out the exact spot, and, if so, can we believe they have not opened or rifled it? Was this question put to theni ■ — and is there reason to suppose that these documents may exist in part in their possession ? — Most people are of opinion that they took tlieir journals with them on their march, and that even at the last extremity, they did not throw them away, but tried to hide them ; and this may have taken i)lace all along the march. It seems strange, if they were buried near Pt. Victory, that the Record found there and brought home by McOlintock, did not notice this; — especially as it was well un- derstood, I believe, among the oflBcers, although not openly talked about (lest the information should be betrayed to the natives) that these doc- uments were to be buried so many yards magnetic north of the cairns erected. — ^Again it is supposed, and I believe McClintock is of that opinion, that these vaults may be conjectural things, by which the Esquimaux explained some leveled or paved spot which had been the site of a magnetic Observatory or shooting station. Have the Esqui- maux ever been asked if they found tin cylinders, or any other con- trivance for holding nothing but a sheet of i>aper, under the cairns, and what they did with them, and whether they could procure any, if hand- somely rewarded ? If another search were instituted, it should be held out to them that the production of paper or books would be more hand- somely rewarded than anything else. Does not W. Hall believe that, if the natives had found what he calls "the vault," they would have removed everything out of it5 would he have given up the search had he felt convinced that anything was to ■•ii-. Preliminarj/ Chapter. XIX be {^iiined by pmNuiii}^ it? — This is a question tbjit lias been put to me ; but I think Mr Ilall hud not the means of supporting himself in the barren island, and could get no one to accompany him, or not enough of men ; and then the new idea of the North I'olo tool* possession of him and seemed to him a more worthy object of ambition. — Yet, though ho abandoned, whether from necessity or choice, the object he had held out to himself from the beginning, he is too conscientious to say that nothing more cau be done, or that ho did all that man can even do ; and his declaration is, iu my view of things, creditable to his candor and truthfulness; ho ahnost invites others to do that iu which ho has failed himself, — and this leads mo to ask (and many are asking the same question) wliether anything would induce him to go again ? and, if so, whether ho would consent to accompany one of the bravest and ablest of our Arctic officers, as his Second. — I would ask you to ascertain from him whether ho would postpone his efforts to reach the Pole, for one season (he uuiy be quite sure there is no danger of any body getting there before hini) and devote a whole summer to the recovery of the precious documents on King William Island, and the several adjoining places on the main-land, where ho believes the last of our poor people perished. The emoluments or remuneration must be such as to make it worth his while to undertake another voyage, and should be suggested by himself, so that ho might start with a willing niind and be able to see that his further movements northward would be facilitated rather than checked, by joining in this final Arctic search. — In fact, he and his two Esquimaux, if ho ttikes them with him towards the Pole, would be so far forwarded on their way when the King W"' search was over. I do not enter at present into more detail, except that such an Expe- dition would be on a manageable but sufficient scale, composed of well- tried, trustworthy men, whether English, American, or Canadian, i. e. Hudson Bay people j and, that the funds arc provided and are ample for the purpose. To apiily again for Government aid seems totally out of the question. Such an appeal would not be listened to for a moment, and it is quit© certain that whatever has been hitherto effected has been I, iHIJ I.I I'l XX Prdiminory Chapter. i|;':i ii:: ' m i 'Hi; by private nieana; viz, by your Expeditious on the oue liaiul, and my humble etforts on the other. What I have now said about engagiug Mr. Hall in a last effort will show him that I judge of him as you do yourself; viz, that he is an able, fearless, trustworthy and conscientious man ; Dear Cornelius always maintained that he was so. It remains to be seen whether in so holy and noble a cause as the rescue of those precious documents from eternal sepulture in oblivion, W. Hall would be willing to forego the chief com- mand, in order to act as a coadjutor with all that natural influence which his experience and zeal must give him ; sharing the dangers of his com- panion and sharing his glory also. Having said this much, I must add my request that the suggestions I now make through you to Mr Hall he not made public, nor find their way into the newspapers^ as it is a part of the plan here in England to keep the contemplated Expedition a secret until fully determined on and organized, in order to avoid all obstruction, discussions and difficulty making. I am most anxious to see Mr. Hall at this moment ; how many diffi- culties could be (jleared, how much increased confidence Inspired, if one could but see and talk to him! — but how is this to be effected, for I sup- pose he is too busy with his book to come to England till the publisher's work is done ; — otherwise I would gladly pay all his expenses to and from and during his stay here. I am sorry to hear rumors of his having got into some trouble about the man whom he sacrificed. I presume he deemed it necessary, how- ever, for the safety of himself and others. It is an awful thing to take a man's life, but it has been found justifiable upon occasions when the lives of others were endangered. Witness that act of Sir John Richard- son's, which is always quoted to his honor, when, without a moment's warning, he shot down the half-breed hunter, who was advancing quickly in his strength toward himself and Hepburn, both enfeebled by starva- tion, in order to sacrifice and feed upon them. Sir Leopold McClintock is home preparing a third edition, (which has been called for by his publishers) of the Fox Voyage. He thinks I ' i Preliminary Chapter. XXI liiinscli' moat fortunate in iinticipatine int'oniitMl of the HiibHtance of the letter.— (\ F. H.] Cincinnati, Dec W" 1801). Mr. GlilNNELL Deau Sir : Time and again have I taken in hand the subject matter of Lady Franklin's Letter, for the object of giving full answer to it; but in vain. I can say in truth that ever since my an-ival in the country from my return from my late five years voyage and travels in the Arctic Eegious, 1 have not had two hours to myself in which I could sit down and not be interrupted many times. I despair, at present, of getting the time to answer (as I would like) tlie letter referred to; for I am buiiily flying here and there on Lecture tou.\s. Lecturing is a curse to my soul, for I am far from being that way inclined, and yet I have had to pursue it and am still head and ears engaged in it. Just as soon as I can get out of the uncon- genial business, I shall do so ; and then 1 do hope I can get at least sufiBcient time to apologize to you and other friends for the apparent long neglect. Tliis much I must say, that, for years, I have determined to undertake an Ex- pedition to the North Pole so soon as I should become satisfied that there coidd be no survivor of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. I expect soon to apply to Con- gress for aid in my purposed North Pole Expedition. In case of not securing the necessary aid from Congress or otherwise for that Expedition (to commence next spring,) I should then feel to do whatever I could to favor personally the noble aspirations of Lady Franklin: parenthetically let it be said, that no one, should ask of me to accept a subordinate position in an Arctic Expedition. If McClin- tock and myself be Lady Franklin's chosen ones, we could be Co-Commanders and nothing less. xxu Preliminary Chapter. Ah lor pay I Hlionld nsk iiotliiiig. My iiiitlii'iil Trunk Liiilor, I know, wonld bo filiul to iicf'oiniuiny us. JIc will no vhorcvor I (Icsiic, and corliiinly I will feel glad to have liiiu with nic wliciu-vor J may go to Ww, A.ctic, L'cgionH. .loo and Ilannali, my Esquimaux Inteiprt'ti'is, 1 tlu'ak, would accomimny us also. TLey 80ud love to you & family. Yourt- over C. F. HALL. P. S. Whether I go or uot on the proposed English Exi)edition to King W'"'h I;and, I feel to do all I can in faeilitating its purposes; and will, therefore, communi- cate such important nujtter as I have acquired in the North, so soon as 1 can be rc^lieved from the ])rcssure upon my time. Tho promise involved in the last of the pveceding- lines was ful- filled at as early a date as was found practicable. On the 10th of Janiuuy, 1871, he forw.arded to Lady Franklin two MSS., titled "Sir John Franklin, with notes of my voyage of 1864 to 'G9." The extracts which follow from letters accompanying- this packet, will confirm what has been said as to his desire to go out even a third time for the Records: • * * My special respects to Miss Cracroft. I trust I shall be able to send you other matter relating to my King William's Land Sledge Journey, and such information as will bo of use to any one who may make a Journey to King W. Laud. • * * Why is it that I am not still following \\p that subject? Is it tinished ? Can more be done in gaining intelligence of that most important of all Arctic Expeditions"? To the first question the answer cannot be satisfactory, for I hardly know, myself, why I was led ofl' from that almost holy mission to which I have devoted about twelve years of my life, and well on to eight of these in tho icy regions of the I^orth. What burned within my soul like a living fire all tho time, was the full faith that I should find some survivors of Sir John's memorable Expedition living among tho natives, and that I would bo the instrument in the hand of heaven, of their salvation. But when I heard tho sad talo from living wit- nessef a the spring of 18G9, how wickedly many survivors in the fall of 1848 had been abandoned and sutfered to die, my faith, till thou so strong, was shaken, and ultimately was extinguished. As to the Eecords, I believed they had been care- fully buried on King William's Land beftn'o tho Erebus and Terror wore aban- doned; and, that if no survivor was found, at least those Eecords might bo recov- ered. * * * God willing, I will make two more voyages to tho North, — one for Preliminary Chapter. XXI II tlio discovery of the roi^ioiis to ami iiboiit tlic Poh?, uimI the other to obtain the reconh of Sir JohiCn Expedition, and to obtain other iiiforiiiatioii than whut I already possess relating to it. Had I failed in (?ettin^r niy Conntry interested in Itttinj; out an Expedition for making I'olar discoveries, as 1 told yon / would have most certainly {!). V.) been ready for the King Wvi's Land Voyage, As the matter now stands, I have nuich reason to hope that the North Polar Ex|)edition I havo the honor to command, will accomplish its object and be back to the States in 30 months from the time of leaviui; say from Ist of .lune next.* "TIio Hcarcli for tho Rcconls lias not been wholly abandoned ov. Tim cruises of tho Pandora (now tho Jcanottc, of tho I'olar Kxpcditiou of 1879, under eonuuaud of liieutonant Do Long, IT. 8. N.) niado by Capt. Alton Young in 1875 and 187C had this search for one of their objects. Jnno 19, 1878, au oxpodition under Lieutenant Scliwatka, U. 8. A., was scut out from Now York by Mc.rison & Brown for tho same object. This expedition proposed to remain on the (leld of searuh later in the summer following than Hall fotuid himself able to do in 1809. Taking with thorn Eskimo Joo as guide and interpreter, and a foreo of armed white men, tliey may i)ossibly Bccuro something of value of those Kecords, tho recovery of which has been so long desired l)y England and by tho world. Captain Barry, who took out Lieutenant Sehwatica in the ICothen, had received on a previous voyage information from the Neitchille natives which prouiptcd tho present oxpodition. Ho had brought homo with him also a Kranklin relic, tho history of which is marked under the annexed drawing. Messrs. Morison & Brown presented it to Miss Cracroft, through the U. 8. Naval Observivtory. 8POON BELONGING TO SIU JOHN FIIANKLIN BROUGHT FROM REPULSE BAY BY CAPT. BARRY, OP THE WHALER A. HOUGHTON, IN 1877, FORWARDED TO M188 SOPHIA CRACROFT, LONDON. THE MENDING DONE BY THE ESQUIMAUX. XXIV Preliminary Chapter. Full evidence is thus found in Hall's papers, especially in that private correspondence which best discloses impulses and purposes, that his "Rescue and Research" was the impulse not of a humane feeling only, but of such feeling exercised towards those whom he con- sidered heroes in their objects as well as in their sufferings. It grew out of his thoughts of men who had been fighting nature for objects which had enlisted very noble minds; — enticing fiom his home a Franklin for the fourth time, and even in his sixtieth year. Hall's own desire for participation in the work of searcl.' was quickened by the fact that every Relief Expedition except McClintock's had erred in its line of search, until *' the pursuit was now ended," as John Barrow and others wrote him, " where it should have been begun." It does not seem so strange, then, that he should at times have spoken of him- self as " called " to do something in the work of relief on which no one else was entering. To go back to his first appeal, issued for him to the citizens of Cincinnati in 1860, is to cite what in one form or another disclosed his feelings throughout the whole remainder of his life. The appeal read as follows : This is to memorialize all lovers of Man and of Geogra- raphy, History, and ScieTice to co-operate by all methods and means in their power, to facilitate and assist our fellow country- man, Charles Francis Hall of Cincinnati, Ohio, in the formation of, and fitting out an American Expedition, in search of survivors of Sir John Franklin's Exploring party, consisting of 138 per- sons, only 27 of Avhom are known to be dead. Secondly, for satisfactorily settling and completing the history of the last Franklin Expedition ; and thirdly, to promote and benefit the cause of Geogra- phy, Navigation, Natural History and Science. Preliminary Chapter. XXV Such an Expedition with proper vessels, w itli competent and experienced Commander, Oflicers and Crew, with a comi)lete outfit and provision for from two to three years craise, to embark from an Eastern port of the United States of America, and proceed via. Davis Straits, Bafliu's Bay, Lancaster Sound, and Bar- rows Strait; thence from the North coast of Boothia to commence the Search, ex- tending it to King William's Land, and the adjacent regions, until a thorough antl satisfactory investigation shall have been made of all that portion of the Arctic World ; and the humanitarian object attained of discovering some survivor of the lost companions of Sir John Franklin, or of ascertaining the ultimate fate of the Members of that Exjjedition, who, up to this day remain unaccounted for; being no less than one hundred and eleven souls, whose historj', the loud voice of mankind, from all generous natures, demands shall not remain forever shrouded in oblivion, while energetic intelligence and American enterprise can hope to rescue a single survivor, or furnish the solution of their ultiuiiite history. This appeal was indorsed by a number of the public men of Ohio, among whom were Hon. R. B. Hayes, the present Executive of the United States ; the Governor of the State, Hon. William Dennison ; Hon. S. P. Chase; and the Mayor of Cincinnati, noAv Gov. R. M. Bishop. At the meeting which it secured, Hall exhibited maps and charts of the Arctic discoveries made by Sir John Franklin, Dr. Kane, De Haven, and McClintock ; with those of Ross, Pany, Back, Dease and Simpson, Richardson, Rae, McClure, Kellet, Collinson, Belcher, and others — nar^es which cany us back to the revival, under Sir John Ban-ow, of English exploration for the Northwest Passage to Asia. The study of such explorations from even a much earlier date had made Hall intelligent in this field ; it now maintained his enthusiasm. As introductory, therefore, to the history of his purposes, and of his work in this Second Expedition, some Tabular Statements and historical Maps have been prepared, in order to present, in con- nection with the now renewed public interest in Arctic Exploration, xxvi ■ii Preliminary Chapter. The Record in brief;— I. Of English and American* explorations for the Northwest Passage from the year 1818 to 1845, when Sir John Franklin's Expedi- tion left England. II. Of the Franklin Relief Expeditions, English and American, from 1848 to 1860, the year of Hall's First Expedition. TABLE No. I. 1- ^'aml expeditio ns for discovering the Northwest Passage, 1818 to 1845. CommaDders. Vessels. Positions reached north and west. I. Capt. D. Buchan Lieut. John Franklin IL Conimandor John Ross. Lieut. W. y.. Parry Year. Dorothea . . Trent III. Lieut. W. E. Parry Lieut. M. Liddon . . . IV. Capt. W. E. Parry. Capt. G. F. Lyon . . Isabella . . . Alexander. Hecla Griper .. >Long. now.; lat. 80° 37' N. Lancaster Sound; long. 84 W lat. 76° 54' N. •1 V. Capt. W. E. Parry Commander H. P. Hoppner. . VL Capt. G. F.Lyon VIL Capt. F. W. Beechy Fury . Hecla , Hecla . Fury . . 1 VIII. Capt. John Ross Lieut. James C. Ross. IX. Capt. George Back. Griper Blossom . . . Victory . . . Terror. .. West coast of Melville Island;') long. 113° 48' 22" 'W.; lat. i 74° 47' 19" N. J f Whyte Inlet, Fury and Hecla -) < Strait; long. 84° 52' W.; lat. \ I 70° 12' N. J Prince Regent's Inlet 18' W. ; lat. 74° 28 Rowe's Welcome 44" W. ; lat. 65° >t; long. 92' > V 13" N. C ; long. 89° 1' > ° 20' N. C ^ Bering's Straits to Point Bar- \ row,126mile8ea8tofIcyCap& West coast of Prince Regent's" Inlet and of Boothia and north coast of King Willi.im's Land ; long. 99° W.; lat. 70° 5' 17" N. 1818 1818-'19 1819-'30 183l-'23 1824-'25 1824 Frozen Strait; long. 83° 40 lat. 65° 47' N. »'W.;> 1825-'28 1829-'a3 1836-'37 - ^^t:.^^^^^^^''^'^^^'-^^^^^^^'^^'^^ ];^i/i^\j^:r- ....... — ,,- — ^.y. LT.-.J.J _....l-' i . 1. . ' "I I . I . . Preliminary Chapter. (2.) EXPLORATIONS BY LAND. XX vu l^ o to O n '/I ! 1819-1822.— Capt. John Franklin, with Dr. J. Eichardson, Lieutenants Back ai■ «'; ' - ' . ■'■■ *■ ■ - ' ■■■'. ■'''.■ ,..i/', 1:' v'' '■'■ ■■ ,, *'^'- "•■ f>.i»'-WV : ■»" '■ ^aiss'^'^^;?*?;':^'^'-"-''^'^'^ J I XX il! / . ( '■ -i ■•■■>!;•// ■ '■■i,4('r. Ir:).- '•:>.. h,- t'-.v. . ,-/ t*f ']■■ iN'-li.. ■ • l^.l ■ '• air. W- (i'.ri'ct (miJ!.'c) If'i ,',;U .U (il , ..irii ■..■(.- .lati-il. '■ W'ir ' '."Mi ! ■ i.is, v%r-..r < 'outjt ot' < -r 'eiaaii'' ■r>l,")." ill.-' ^lu^:^: >'/<:!,• 1 1.-.- ■u ,ti'^- 'J(\, of IKK j:Aii:i»ri!o.N m-i I Mil.-.' i-.M Vi"-.i Is. l'(*.-i:ii.>iin r*-ii' hv.i N. "itli mill VV.:tii. I I. (■(■) \VV;!iiiat<»ri 1 1 ,,, ■■ .Tmi ii.il. .., '^ i ' I ' i l.Viiit.. 77-N., 1..I.U. OT- v.- ' ! Cwi.i. ;>,!■ .i ri;.jklin, t\nn- • Kt^O.m^, ICO ^J ,, uiniero.l ;.t Hew ;■.-> l»i..i;,.' vc. 'i-,;ii!.. r', l'it/)am*,'S, LU'Ut. j toiis.firn.v. | l '4-' 4;)' "H" V, long, ''i' t" W ! '■'* ''■''•'"■ j lU. 'ih»;iKi' wjst, aiiiH>rol>,.ili)-. fiiou)..;*- ; ■ '■> i V>r- K iv. .M.< n.ZMr, I.Mif T.nn.r, "Ju M P.-W8o>.m(l,toIiU.7i.-05-N.. '..ng. i i 1M8 ' ■ \'.: 'LViK: -m'ioni^ !:^*'^i ^'iv- f'M.- m^iii-ly tlirec. y">tr«. I\'ti«;r <-\pt.i-!i<.iPi*- bf-'^jan to bo Kri\i out iVuiii \-.'\(: '■■:'. :. !•*.; "i *;i' : zluM' ;.ax r*Uii\'ii'i'i.'Ml i.-u \,\ r ipu'litinn.-; Avliii/li, •.viliur. tir ■■•.; rlif-. .>i;:i;- ,!, trt ::;^ ;V:*-H;> S ti,l aiony ' i!v . I'ii.i;-,. ■'Iu>5'.:il '.':-■ m) 'T. . - ■ ,. :.;■■• .f--.' •■ii !,V" '^ilii t::."i; i"iU' i'l>. :'lnCir. • ..: Ill ilii; ' '•.ntinr-ut. !'!)'■ r<'i'..-r: lv\p(.JUuiii.-> B /'/., . ^ -y <■ ^ lliin-iin, l!iiuni\iiiu iV IViiiliiiti. li t Preliminary Chapter. XXIX TABLE No. II. Englkh and AmMoan Expeditiont for the Beli^ of Sir John Franklin, 1848-1859. 1. FROM THE WEST THROUGH BERING'S STRAITS. Years. Vessels. Commanders. Line of search and coasts examined. 1848-'52 Plover ( Commander Afoore Caotain Maatuire Through Bering's Strait, be- yond Point Barrow, to lat. 73" 51' N., long. 163° 48' W., with a boat expedition from the Plover up the Mackenzie River and east to Cape Ba- thurst; Mr. R. Sheddon, in his yacht " Nancy Dawson," rendering assistance. ie48-'49 Herald Captain Kellett .. ' Discovered Herald Island, and visited and named a part of the land reported by Wran- l gell. 1850-'55 1851-'58 1853 1853 1853 1854 { Enterprise 1 Investigator Supply-ships : Dcedalus Captain Collinson Coast of North America from Bering's Strait to Dease Strait and coast of Banks Land. Investigator aban- doned Juno 3, 1853, in the bay of Mercy on the north coast of Banks Land. Com- mander McCluro crossed on the ice to Dealy Island to the Resolute and Intrepid, and returned across the Atlan- tic to England. Parliament gave £10,000 to him and his . officers. Commander McClure Cantain Welleslev .. .. . . Amphitrite Rattlesnake Diligence Trincomalee Captain Frederick Commander TroUope Lieutenant Elliott ............. Captain Houston XXX Vrclimmury ('hnptor. 3. FROM TIIK KABT THROUOH UAl'FIN'8 HAY. 1 Years. Vpiwnld. Commanders. Lino of searrli and coast* examined. North and west coasts of North 184H-'49 \ Kntcrprist! J Tnvestlgiitor 8ir.I. C. Ross C!«ptiiiM Hird Somerset. North shores of 1 Barrow St rait and the shores of Prince Regent's Inlet. 1849-'50 S North Star ( (Supply shii).) Master Saunders ) Landed provisions on one of ^ theWoUaston Islands. r Coasts of Cornwallis Island I and shores of Wellington L Channel. 1850-'51 , i SoDliin . Cantuin Stewart ... ' Resoluto Captain Aimtiii f South coasts of the Parry Isl- ands and the passages be- 1 18.')0-'51 Assistance Cmituin OiiiiiwiiKiv tween thorn, northwest and Pioneer Lieutenant Oslxu'u east coasts of Prince of Wales , Intrepid Lieutenant Cal or Island to long. 103° W., lat. . 72° N. IftfiO-'Sl \ Advance Lieutenant De Haven, U. S. X . . . First Grinnell Expedition ; shores of Wellington Chan- J Rescue Master Grifflu, II. 8. N nel ; discovered Grinnell Land. ' Shores of Wellington Channel 1 and the coasts of Melville and Frinco Patrick Islands; the Assistance, Resolute, Pioneer, and Intrepid aban- doned Augnst 2(i, 1854 ; the Resolute picked up at sea, Assistance Sir K. Belcher lat. 04° 40', long. 01° r.O', Sep- Captain Kellett tember 11, 1855, by Capt. James Buddington, of Now London, Conn.; brought to 185a-'54 < Pioneer Lieutenant Osboru Lieutenant McClintock .. Intrepid North Star Captain PuUen the United States, and pre- sented to England by joint resolution of United States Congress of August 28, 1850 ; delivered to Queen Victoria by Commander Hartstene, U. S. N. , December IC of same I year. Preliminary dhaptcr. xxxi Years. VoHSCls. ComniondJTH. Line of Hcareli and coastn examined. ShoreHof Wellington CImnnel ; Ir.nded HlorcH atCapeHiley ; Returned with part of Me- 185:i { Phwiiix ConimaiKler Ingloflehl Clure^H command i Lieuten- i Brt'mlnlbniiP.... Lieutenant Fawcltner ant Bollot, of Tranco, per- ished in the ico Angtist 17, 1 1 185:<; the ship lost at Cape [ Riley August 21, 1853. 1853-'55 Advance Dr. Kane,U. 8. N ) Second Grinnell Expedition, [ Smith's Sound. Lnt.88027'N. Returned to England from 1854 ^ Phffinix Commander InKlellcld Docchey Island with part of ^Tftlbot Commander JenkiuH Belcher's and McClure's com- mands. 1855 1 Release Lieutenant Hartstene, U. 8. N.. Lieutenant Simran, U. 8. N Ships sent out lor the relief of Dr. Kane; found iiiiu on his return at Lievely or God- f Arctic havn, Greenland. (3) LAND EXPEDITIONS. 1848-M9. — Sir John Richardson and Dr. Rae searched the coasts of North America between the Mackenzie and the Coppermine Ri vers. (Dr. Rao, under the Hudson Bay Company in 1846-'47, made a voyage of discovery from Fort Churchill to the Gulf of Bootiiia, surveying the Gulf to Fury and Hecla S ;rait on the east and Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir James Ross on the west, determining there ai isthmus.) 1849. — Dr. Rao reached Capo Kruseustern. 1849-'51.— Lieut. W. J. 8. Pullcu, from the Plover. (See table No. II for Boat E cpedition.) 1851. — Dr. Rae: coasts of Wollastou Island and east coast of Victoria Lnn.i to lat. 70° N., long. 101° W. 1853-'o4. — Dr. Rae: roasts of Boothia Isthmus; obtained relics of Franklin's Expedition ("rewarded by vote of Parliament). 1855. — J. Anderson and J. G. Stewart: west coast of Adelaide Peninsula. xxxu Preliminary Chapter. (J.) PRIVATE EXPEDITIONS ORGANTZED UNDER SUBSCRIPTIONS BY SOCIETIES, BY LADY FRANK- LIN, CAPTAIN ROSS, LIEUTENANTS McCLINTOCK, YOUNG, ^ND OTHERS. Years. 1850-'5l 1850 1851-'52 Commanders. 1852 Isabel 1857-'59 Fox, Captain McCIintock Lino of search and cooste examined. ' A portion of Cornwallis Island. [Dr. R. A. Goodsir, brother of the surgeon of the Erebus, in the whaler Advice, in 1849, also searched Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound.] Found Barrow Strait and Prince Regent's Inlet blocked with ice ; coasts of Prince of Wales Island and North Somerset. Shores of Prince Regent's Inlet and Bellot Straits. Lieuten- ant Bollot, of France, waa second in command. Wosteuholme, Whale, Smith's, Jones, and Lancaster Sounds, and Baffin's Bay. [Captain Kennedy, in 1853, sailed in the Isabel for Be- rings Straits ; voyage aban- doned at Valparaiso, ] Completed survey of North Somerset, Prince of Wales Island, Boothia-Felix Pen- insula, aud King William's < Land, finding many relics of Franklin's Expedition, and obtaining at Point Victory the only Record as yet recov- , ered. This last expedition, under McCIintock, brought from the cairn at Point Victory, on King William's Land, a tin cylinder containing the LA m 3» O > O 2 3D > m O z H O o CO- o ■n -n > g 1 ^ -^ f ^<' '' I I ^ M y s 3 It's N O 68 »• ^' t 5? i !Bp^jj(^!^PIWf;iS9?j?jjj5^|^^^^ >;!rJ*7.TrT'^..-;7'^^'^--'' 4 9 a 3" f P g s a cr 2 CD S S § 3 00 g a, pr CD P P ^ 0< BE] ?l§ •Dp 3 ^ p o — g 2 p » » p-* o ^ '=' P « IS Si 3 2^ «♦ 2 PJ p.§cg: g B ^ Cb S" org » 3' ^ R °° * 5" p tfj 00 P P °o S P «D p. p p e-h P- CD CD >/fcr X ^ru-^i M- -z^: ^y^x! jVjVVk' l8 T Ill \ J Preliminary Chapter. xxxiii Record, of which a fac simile is here given. It is the only official paper as yet found recording the fate of the Franklin Expedition * CHIEF BENEFICIAL BESULTS. The explorations for the discovery of the Northwest Passage, and those sent out for the relief of Sir John Franklin or other absent explorers, resulted in the discovery of that great region lying within the Arctic Circle between 00° and 130° west longitutle up to Cape Parry, 71° 23' west longitude and 77° 0' nortli latitude ; or from Davis Strait to Cape Bathurst; embracing Banks, Prince Albert, and Prince Patrick's Lands, Melville Island and Sound, McClintock's Channel, Ba- thurst Island, Victoria, Prince of Wales and King William's Land, Boothia and Culf of Boothia, North Somerset, North Devon, Melville Peninsula, Cockburn Island, Grinnell, EUesmere, and Washington Lands, Lancaster, Eclipse, and Jones * In 1859 McCliintock learned that the ships luado the passage to the waters loading into Simpson's Strait. Franklin's expedition, therefore, discovered what he songht. lie had died on board the Erebus June 11, 1847. The Royal Geographical Society, in awarding in 1860 the Founder's gold medal to Lady Franklin, affirmed that in placing the Erebus and the Terror in the position of lat. 70° 05', long OS"-" 23', "the Franklin Expedition had firmly established the existence of a Nortliwest Passage." Lieutenant Gore's party, sent out by Franklin from his ship May 24, 1847, had, in fact, in all proba- bility, r<(i)ortod to liim before his death that the waters of the North and the South were united by a passage between his ships and Dease and Simpson's Strait. The discovery was unknown until the return of the Fox, six years after the award to Sir R. McClure and his officers, as tho first to cross from the Pacific to the Atlantic. A Monument costing £2,000, erected in 1860 in Waterloo Place, bears the inscriptiou : FRANKLIN. TO THE GREAT NAVIGATOR AND HIS BRAVE COMPANIONS WHO SACRIFICED THEIR LIVES COMPLETING THE DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH-WEST I'ASSAGE. A. D. 1847-48. ERECTED BY THE UNANIMOUS VOTE OF PARLIAMENT. This statue, voted by the nation, was unveiled in tho presence of tho First Lord of the Admiralty, Sir J. Pakington, and of the distinguished Arctic explorers and geographers, Colliu- sin, Ommaney, S.abiue, Murchison, Osborn, and Rawlinsou, Mr, John Barrow, Mr. Arrowsmith, and of others, with Lady Franklin. She declared tho likeness of her husband excellent and S. Ex. 27 in xxxiv Preliminary Chapter. Sounds, Wellington Channel, Kellett, Barrow Straits, Franklin Straits, Peel, Sir James Eoss, and the Fury and Hecia Straits, Regent's Inlet, and the discovery in 1833, by Sir James Ross, of the north magnetic pole. (Judge Daly, pres. of Am. Geog. Soc, in Johnston's Cyclopedia, 187G.) See Circumpolar Pocket Map and Map No. II. In a very courteous letter received since the preparation of this Narrative was begiin. Admiral Sir F. L McClintock, R. N,, estimates the aggregate amount of moneys expended by England in these North- west Passage explorations at £272,000, and of those expended in the re- lief expeditions, at £ i 75, 000; with the additions made by private parties of £35,000. Of this last sum a large proportion was from Lady Frank- lin's purse. The aggregate of moneys expended by American exploring and relief expeditions, chiefly from private subscriptions, exceeds the sum of $25.0,000. The amount appropriated by the United States Con- gress for Dr. Kane's Expedition was $150,000. Admiral McClintock further writes that the number of miles traversed by sledge expeditions only, over ice or land, is about 43,000. In answer to the request that he would express his views in regard characteristic. He is represented as informing bis officers and crew that the Northwest Passage has been discovered. A panel represents Crozier reading the funeral service over Franklin in 1847. In 1875 a beautiful Mouunient, ordered by Lady Franklin, was inspected before her death, and placed in the same year in Westminster Abbey. It is of CaiTara marble, having in has relief an ice-bound ship, and the inscription : "O ye frost, and cold ! O ye ice and snow, Bless ye the Lord ! Followed by Tennyson's linos: Kot here : the white North has thy bones, nnd then Heroic Sailor Soul ! Art passing on thy happier voyage now Toward no Earthly Pole. Erected by his widow, who, after long waiting, and sending many in search of him, herself de- parted to find him in the realms of life." Preliminary Chapter. XXXV to the gain to commerce, to science, or to navul impulse by England's work for the Northwest Passage and the Relief expeditions, he says :• This doubtless Las been very great ; to whaling commerce it has opened up all to the north and west of Davis Strait and Uudson Strait ; also to the north of Behi-ing's Strait. The value of these fisheries alone amounts to ver;^' many millions steiiiug into the pockets of English and American traders. The scien- tific results are very varied and ample in almost every department, and peculiarly so in magnetism, meteorology, the tides, geographical discoveries, geology, botany, and zoology, as shown by the general advance in each branch. Upon naval im- pulse the influence has been truly great ; we could man an exi)edition with En- glish naval officers ; and abroad we have seen Germans, Austrians, Swedes, Nor- wegians, and this year Dutchmen, induced to take part in the work of Arctic ex])loration. The problem of the Northwest Passage is no longer one of prac- tical utility. Science has ceased to expect from its discovery the ad- vantages for commerce and navigation the hope of which stimulated the explorers The nbrtheast passage around Asia, successfully prose- cuted in the years 1878-79, by Pi'ofessor Nordenskiold, promises large rewards in the interests of science and of commerce. The cereals, the graphite, ivory, and other products of the Asiatic Arctic seaboard are already coming into the European markets. Lieutenant Payer, of the German North Polar Expedition of 1869, has justly said of the whole Polar question that "as a problem of science it aims at determining limits of land and water, at perfecting that network of lines with which comparative science seeks to surround our planet even to the Pole, the discovery of the physical laws which regulate climates, the currents of the atmosphere and the sea, and the analogies of geology with the earth as we see it." » xxxvi Preliminary Chapter. The langiingo of Sir John BaiTow, Secretary of the Admiralty, whose labors wore the means of reviving the explorations towards tho north and west, is worth recalling : But it may be asked, cui bono arc these northern voyages nndertaken ? If thoy were merely to bo proseeuted for tho sake of making a passage from En- gland to China, and for no other purpose, their utility might fairly be questioned. But when the aequisition of knowledge is the groundwork of all the instructions under which they are sent forth ; when the commanding officer is directed to cause constant observations to be nuide for the advancement of every branch of science — astronomj', navigation, hydrography, meteorology, including electricity and magnetism, and to make collections of subjects of natural history — in short, to lose no opportunity of acquiring new and important information and discovery ; and when it is considered that these vc^ iges give employment to officers and men in time of peace, and produce officers and men not to be surpassed, perhaps not equaled, in any other branch of the service ; the question cui bono is readily an- swered in the words of Queen Elizabeth's minister, " Knowledge is power." At a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, in 1865, Capt. Sherard Osborn said : In the year 1818 Baflin's discoveries upon the one hand, and those of Be- ring upon the other, with dots for the mouths of the Mackenzie and Ilearne Rivers, were all we knew of the strange labyrinth of lands and waters now accurately delineated upon our charts of tlie Arctic zone. Sailors and travelers, in thirty- six years, have accontplished all this ; not always, be it remembered, in well-stored ships, sailing rapidly from point to point, but for the most part by i)atiently toil- ing on foot, or coasting in open boats round every bay and fiord. Sir Leoi)old McClintock tells the lioyal Dublin Society that he estimates the foot explorations accomplished in the search for Franklin alone at about forty thousand miles. Yet during those thirty-six years of glorious enterprise by ship, by boat, and by sledge, England only fairly lost one expedition and 128 souls out of forty-two successive expeditions, and has never lost a sledge party out of about one hundred that have toiled within the Arctic Circle. Show mo upon the globe's surface an equal amount of geographical discovery, or in history as arduous an achievement, with a smaller amount of human sacrifice, and then I will concede that Arctic explora- nitiou has entailed more than its due proportion of suffering. \ PrcViminanj Chapter. XXX Vll Thosii who assort that our hibors and rosoarchos havo merely added so many mih's of unprolltabU* eoast-lino to our (^liarts had better compare our kno\vh'd;jo of Arctie phenomena to-diiy with the theories enunciated by men of h«arnin^ and rei)ut(^ a century affo. They shouhl confront our knowhulge of 1801 with that of 1800 upon the natural history, meteorology, climate, and winds of the Arctic Regions. They must remend)(^r that it was there wc obtained the clue, still un- raveled, of the laws of those mysterious currents which flow through the wastes of the ocean like two mighty rivers— the Gulf Stream and the Ice Stream ; nuist remember that it was there — in Boothia — that the two Rosses first reached the Magnetic Pole, that mysterious point round which revolves the mariner's c()m])ass over one-half of the Northern hemisphere; and let the worhl say whether the nmss of observations collected by our explorers on all sides of that ^lagnetic Polo havo added nothing to the knowledge of the laws of magnetic declination and dip. They should remember how a few years ago it was gravely debated whether nmn could exist through the rigors and darkness of a Polar winter, ami how wo havo only re- cently discovered that Providence has peopled that region to the extreme latitude yet reached, and that the animals upon which they subsist arc there likewise, in winter as well as in summer. All this, and much more, should bo borne in mind by those cynics who would have you believe wo havo toiled in vain ; and I hold, with the late Admiral Beechey, " that every voyage to the North has tended to remove that veil of obscurity which previously hung over the geography and all the phe- nomena of the Arctic Kegions. Before those voyages all was darkness and terror, all beyond the North Cape a blank ; but, since then, each successive voyage has swept away some gloomy superstition, has brought to light some new phenome- non, and tended to tlie advancement of human knowledge. At one of the meetings of the American Geographical Society, of New York, Mr. Henry Grinnell replied to questions of like character by stating some of the results in the extension of commerce and trade which have flowed from Arctic researches : 9 1. Sir II. Gilbert's discovery of tho cod-flsheries of Newfoundland. 2. From Davis' discoveries, the great whalo-fisherios of West Greenland. ;{. From the discoveries of Hudson (who also discovered and sailed into our North River, which now bears his name, while on an Arctic voyage), Hudson's Bay, and the operations of the great fur companies. w-n-^^F'TT^." '^~W ' xxxviii J'reliminary Chapter. 4. Sir John Ross : tlio whalo-flHhery of lao North, and northwoHt of BiiflHii'a Bay.* 5. Captain Parry : whalo-flsliory of Lancinster Sound, Barrow Strait, and Princo Regent's Inlet. 0. Admiral Beechey: whaleflsbery of Bering's Straits, in whieh in tlio space of two years the whalers of Nantucket and New Bedford obtained cargoes from which it is said they have realized eight millions of dollars. To these statements of results may be added with interest the tact that the loss of life has been remarkably small. The number of deaths occurring on board of all the ships of all the public and private expedi- tions sent for the relief of Franklin and on those engaged in later Arctic explorations up to the year 1873 has not exceeded one and seven-tenths per cent, of the officers and men employed. At the meeting of the Royal Geographical Society in 1865, Lieutenant Maury remarked that the wreck-charts of the British Isles for the previous year showed greater loss than did the forty years of Arctic exploration, 1819-'59. The accompanying map, No. II, shows the unexplored regions at the date of 1818, geographical discoveries subsequent to tliat date being inclosed within the red lines. Circumpolar Map No. I (to be found in the pocket of the volume) has been prepared to show the chief localities visited by the officers named in the preceding tables. A few *0n the map accompanyiug Hon. Daines Barrington's "Possibility of Approaching the North Pole," published in Loudon in 1818, " BaflSn's Bay" will bo found to have upon it the words "according to the relation of W. BaiBu in 1016, but not now believed." The facts of this case ai-o that Purchas unpanlonably omitted publishing the map brought back by the truthful old nav- igator, saying that " the Tables of his Journal and sayliug were too costly to insert." As the con- sequence of thus discrediting Baffin, no whalerever visited the "North Water"of his bay for two hundred years. The Dutch opened a whale-flshery in Davis Strait in 1719, making net proiits during the period of 1719-1778 of nearly £900,000. In 1818 Capt. .John Ross found Baffin's relations to be accurate and his skeleton chart the safe guide of a worthy and able navigator. Ross found the whales large, numerous, and easily approached. He reported that the fisheries might be pursued with great success. This was the fruit of the first expedition for the Northwest Passage. i I ( ^v ,^ ,j"r....'^>"- '^.v Tv"-""" t"''/) :'^^'>f"' s4^ '^^ .. I 1/ \ \, \ ^ / ;• p t '^Jl % I. f^iiciirnpoliii' Mh|) Ni). II iCJoo\)in|ilii. li Disuovei'ies i)inil<' siiU'o 1818 in Ri. Uwl^''" i.) f! L Preliminary Chapter. XXXIX other localities and names have also been marked on the Eastern and the Western hemispheres, and the Northern Asiatic coast-line is noted as con-ected by Nordenskiold, 1878-'79. EARLY AMERICAN VOYAGES FOR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE. It is of interest to note at what early dates in our colonial history citizens of Pennsylvania, New York, and Virginia shared in these explorations. The following letter from Dr. Franklin is in proof The original was presented by Hon. George Bancroft to Mr. Grinnell. Mr. Bancroft refers to it in his History of the United States, vol. iv, p. 141. The extracts which follow the letter have been taken from the files of " The Pennsylvania Gazette, found in the Mercantile Library, Phila- delphia. The letter of William Allen is from the Penn Papers of the Pennsylvania Historical Society. Philadelphia Feb" 28'*, 1753. * * * I believe I have not before told you, that I have provided a subscription here of £1.500 to fit out a vessel in search of a North West passage. She sails in a few days, and is called the Argo, commanded by M'. Swaine, who was in the last Expedition in the California and author of a Journal of that voy- age in 2 Volumes. Wo think the attempt laudable, whatever may be the success. If she fails, "magnis tamen excidit ausis." With great esteem, BENJ. FEANKLIN. Mr. Cadwaladeu Colden, N. Y. Of this voyage the Pennsylvania Gazette, " printed for Benjamin Franklin, postmaster, and D. Hall," November 15, 1753, says: Sunday last, arrived here the Schooner Argo, Captain Charles Swaine, who sailed from this Port last Spring on the Discovery of a North West Passage. She fell in with the Ice of Cape Farewell ; left the Eastern Ice, and fell in with the Western Ice, in Lat. 58^, and cruised to the Northward to Lat. 63°, to clear it, but 1 V xl I'reliminary Chapter. could not ; it then extending to the Eastward. On her return to the Southward, she met with two Danish Sliips bound to I>all Eiver and Disco, up Davis' Straits, who had been in the Ice fourteen Days olt' Farewell, and had then stood to West- ward, and assured the Commander that the Ice was fast to the Shore, all above Hudson's Straits to the distance of forty Degrees out; and that there had not been such a severe Winter as the last these 24 Years that they had used that Trade ; they had been nine Weeks from Copenhagen. The Argo, finding she could not get round the Ice, pressed through it and got into the Strait's Mouth the 2()th of June, and made the Island Eesolution, but was forced out by vast quantities of driving Ice, and got into a clear Sea the 1st of July. On the 14th, cruising the Ice for an opening to get in again, she met 4. Sail of Hudson's Bay Ships, endeav- oring to get in, and continued with them till the lOth, when they parted in tliick Weather, in Lat. 62 and a half, which thick Weather continued to the 7th of August. The Hudson's Bay Men supposed themselves 40 Leagues from the Western Land. The Argo ran down the Ice from 03° to 57° 30', and, after repeated attempts to enter the Straits in vain, as the Season for discovery on the Western Side of the Bay was over, she went on the Labrador Coast, and discovered it perfe(!tly from 56° to 55°, finding no less than six Iidets, to the Heads of all of which they went, and of which we hear they have made a very good Chart, and have a better Account of the Country, its Soil, Produce, &c., than has hitherto been published. The Captain says 'tis much like Iforway, and that there is no communication with Hudson's Bay through Labrador Avhere one has been heretofore imagined, a high Ridge of Mountains running ;Xorth and South about 50 Leagues within the Coast. In one of the Harbors they found a deserted wooden House with a brick Chimney which had been built by some English, as appeared by Sundry Things they left behind : and afterwards in another Harbor they met with Captain Goif in a Snow* from London, who informed them that the same Snow had been there last Year, and lauded some of the Moravian Brethren who had built that House ; but the Natives havin g decoyed the then Captain of the Snow, and five or six of his Hands, in their Boat round a Point of Land at a Distance from the Snow, under pretence of Trade, and carried them all oft' (thej' liaving gone imprudently without Arms), the Snow after waiting sixteen Days, without hearing of them, went Home and was obliged to take away the IMoravians to help to work tie Vessel. Part of the Business this Year Avas to Enquire after those Men. Cap- tain Swaine discovered a fine fishing Bank, which lies but six Leagues off the f I I I *A three-masted vessel, tho third miist, abaft the niainmast, carrj-iiig a trysail. i i Preliminary Chapter. xH Coast, iuul extends from Lat. 57° to 54°, supposed to be the same hinted at in Captain Davis's Second Voyage. No bad Accident happened to the Vessel, and the men kept in perfect health during the whole Voyage and returned all well. II. Not satisfied with the results of this attempt. Captain Swaine again sailed in the Argo, the following- spring, and the Pennsylvania Journal and Weekly Advertiser of Thursday, October 24, 1754, pub- lished in Philadelphia, says : On Sunday last arrived here the Schooner Argo, Capt. Swaine, wlio was fitted out in the Spring, on the discovery of a N". W. Passage, but having three of his Men killed on the Labrador Coast, returned without success. The Gazette also says : On Sunday last arrived here the schooner Argo from a second ^Vttempt of a Discovery of the Northwest Passage, but without success. A full "Extract from a Journal of this voyage of 1753" will be foimd in the quarto volume on "The Great Probability of the North- west Passage," edited by Thomas Jefferys, Geographer to the King, London, 1768. It embraces 22 pages of Jefferys' Quarto Treatise. In the extract will be found also the statement that a Captain Taylor, in a sloop of about thirty-five tons, was met with July 9, 1 75.1, hi the same waters somewhere in about lat. 56° and long. 56° 42', which sloop had been fitted out from Rhode Island to go in pursuit of a North- west Passage, and if not successful to come down on the coast of Labrador. In Jefferys' volume, p. xi, will also be found the following : The voyage of 1752 was made from Philadelphia in a schooner of about sixty tons, and fifteen persons aboard, fitted out on a subscription of the merchants of Maryland, Pennsylvania, New York, and Boston, on a generous plan, agreeable to proposals made them, with no view of any monopoly which they opposed, not to inter- fere with the Hudson's Bay trade, or to carry on a clandestine trade witli the natives of Greenland, but to discovi^r a Northwest I'assage and explore the Labrador coast, at that time supposed to be locked up under a pretended right, and not xHi Preliminary Chapter. frequented by the subjects of England, but a successful trade carried on by the French ; to open a trade there, to improve the fishery and the whaling on these coasts, cultivate a friendship with the natives, and make them serviceable in a political way, which design of theirs of a publick nature, oi)on and generous, was in a great measure defeated by pri\ iite persons interfering, whose views were more contracted. They did not succeed the first year as to their attempt in discovering a Northwest Passage, as it was a great year for ice ; that it would be latc in the year before the western part of Hudson's Bay could be attained to, and then im- possible to exi)lore the Labrador that year, tlierefore the first part of the design was dropped, and the Labrador was explored. The next year a second attemi)t was made as to a passage ; but three of the people who went beyond the place appointed by their orders, and inadvertently to look for a mine, [samples of which had been carried home the year before, and this at the instigation of a private person before they set out from home, without the privitj' of the commander,] were killed by Eskiraaux, and the boat taken from them. After which accident, with some disagreeable circumstances consequent thereon amongst the schooner's company, and after an experiment made of their disinclination to proceed on any further discovery, it was thought most prudent to return. This short account is given by the person who commanded in this affair to prevent any misrei)re- sentation hereafter of what was done on these voyages. The last three lines of this paragraph point probably to an item in the following curious letter from the chief merchant of Philadelphia of that day, and the chief "undertaker " of the voyage of 1752. Letter from Will. Allen, mercJiant,a)id, at a later date, Chief Justice of the Province of Penmylvania, to the proprietary Thomas Penn. Philadelphia, Xov. 18th, 1753. Sir : As I am quite assured that everything that regards the interest and reputation of the Province of Pennsylvania will ever be i-egarded by you, I there- fore beg leave to solicite your favor in behalf of myself and many other merchants of this place. Notwithstanding the repeated attempts of Gentleujcn in England to discover the Northwest Passage without success, yet there has appeared among us a spirit to undertake that noble design, which if effected will redound to the honour of your province and to the advantage of us the undertakers. I'reliminnri/ Chapter. xliii By tho inclosed papers, over whicli you -will bo pleased to cast your eye, you will perceive that last year we Lad intended to put our desijjn in execution, but by the extremity of the winter and other accidents it was postponed to tho next 3'ear, at which time, as we have bought a vessel and all other material, and engaged a navigator and mariners here, we shall proceed in the affair, and des- patch the vessel from here the latter end of March, and are in great hopes, by avoiding mistakes of former attempts, and pursuing, as we think, more proi)er measures, to bo able to effect the discovery of the passage, or, at least, put it out of doubt whether there is one or no. We have been the more encouraged in this attempt by tho consideration that, in case our search for the passage should bo fruitless, we might strike out a lucrative trade with the coast of Labrador ; but we, to our great siu-prise, are informed wo are like to be deprived of the proposed trade by means of a scoundrel of a parson, one James Sterling, who last sum- mer took his passage to London, and there represented the advantage of the trade to the Labrador coast in such a light to Messrs. Hanbury, Buchanan, and others, that it is said they have applied to the Crown for an exclusive patent. This same Sterling, who is a Church of England minister at l!fewtown, Md,, was concerned with us in tho original undertaking, and subscribed to bear pai-fc of the expense ; but after he had by frequent conversations extracted from the person we chiefly depend upon for executing the design, all or chief part of the intelligence that he could give, he has been base enough to endeavour to circum- vent us. As a proof of that I assert, I here enclose his original letter, wrote with his own hand, to Mr. Benjamin Franklin. We have also here our paper of sub- scrii)tion for the carrying on of tho undertaking, signed by the said Sterling; notwithstanding which, as I said before, he made a voyage to London, and for his discovery and the proposals he laid before the above Gentlemen, he has, though a parson, been rewarded with a collectorship of tho customs at the head of the bay. We conceive ourselves very ill used by this false brother ; have there- fore i)resented a petition to His Majesty, which comes herewith, i)raying that no patent for an exclusive trade be granted, which is humblj" submitted to your consideration, and I am desired to request that you will please to get it presented if you judge it will answer any good end. The expense attending the sollicitation, &c., I will take care of, with thanks to discharge. Your kind intei'position in our behalf will confer a favor on many of the most considerable merchants of this place, and particularly on Your most obedient humble servant, WILL. ALLEN. II xliv Prelhninartj Chapter. A VOYAGE FROM VIRGINIA — 1772. Tlio Gentlemeii'H Magazine, published in London, November, 1772, says: By a letter iroiii James Wilder, captain of the Diligence, fitted out by sub- scription in Virginia with a view to iLo discovery of the long sought for Nortli- west Passage, it appears by the course of the tides there is a passage, but that it is seldom or never open, and he believes impassable. He sailed as high as 09° 11' and discovered a large bay before unknown. Tlie American Quarterly Review of 1828 refers to this voyage; also, Scoresby, in his Account of the Arctic Regions, and Macpherson, in his Annals of Commerce, vol. iii. Contributions in sums of £5 and upward were made for it in New York. A VOYAGE REPORTED TO HAVE BEEN MADE IN 1639 FROM BOSTON. Hall had notes of a strangely-reported expedition from Boston in 1G39, against which the Viceroys of New Spain and Peru were said to have dispatched Admiral de Fonte. These notes will be found in Jefferys' work already referred to. Snow's History of Boston treats the story of the Admiral as a myth, made up by the Magnalia. But Ellis, in his Voyage of the Dobbs and California, says : It is not at all impossible that either to this, or some other Expedition un- dertaken from Boston, the present Hudson's Bay Company owe, that Discovery which produced their Charter, and put them in Possession of those Places in that Bay, in which they have Settlements at i)resent. W. Jeremie, who was Governor at Port Nelson while it was in the llands of the French, and who without doid)t, had better Opi)ortunities of knowing the Matters of which he writes than most other I Vople, gives us this account of the IVFatter. He says, that one W. de Groise- leiz, an iiiliabitant of Canada, a bold and enterpiising man and one who had trav- elled much ill those parts, pushed hi« Discoveries at length so far, that ho reached the Coasts of Hudson's Bay, from the French Settlements by Land. Upon his Keturn, he prevailed upon some of his Countrymen at Quebeck to fit out a Bark for perfecting this Discovery by Sea ; which being done, and he landing upon Prv.Uminarfi Chapter. xlv tho Coast where ho apprehended no Enropean liiul been before, was ania/.ed in the very Dei)th of Wintei, lo hear that some of liis Company had tUseovered an English settlement, as they were pleased to call it near Port Nelson, lie went thither with a Design to attack it; but at his Arrival fonnd it a i)oor miserable Cottage covered with Turf, in which were half a Dozen half starved Wretches, without Arms, and without Strength to use them if they had had any. Tliese, People told him thatthey werePartof a Ship's Crew from Boston, tliat they were set on Shore to look for a Place, where the Ship to which they belonged might Winter; and that the next Morning the Ice drove the Ship outof tlio Port, which they never saw more. As we have no Date to this Pelation, it is impossible to say whether it was that Ship from Loston mentioned in de Fonte's Acctount or not; but if it was, and the Crew perished as very i)robably they might in this iidiospitable Country, it aflbrds a clear and easy Solutiou of that, otherwise un- answerable Difficulty, as to Captain Shapley's nuiking such a Voyage, and so considerable a Discovery, without its coming to be known either in N. England, or in Old. But if we should be wrong in this Conjecture, it would still remain an uicontestible Proof that some Attemjjts were made from Boston, when they were laid aside and forgot at London & Bristol. [The voyage was probably for trading purposes only.] PRINCIPAL ENGLISH ARCTIC PUBLICATIONS BETWEEN THE YEARS 1818 AND 1860. Hall's journals and correspondence show that he had access to the larger number of the following-named authorities. It ajipears also, in his notes and by a letter from Mrs. Hall, that his librar}- — a total loss on his Polaris voyage — included many of them ; some pre- sented and others loaned to him by his New Yoi-k fiiends. He had specially noted the " Record of Auroral Phenomena" observed by Arc- tic voyagers fi'om 174G to 185G, comi)iled by the late Peter Force, of Washington. [Smithsonian Contributions, vol. viii, I80G.] The list of authorities which follows includes Hall's volumes and others consulted in preparing this cliapter. f xlvi Preliminary Chapter. I. Chief Arctic AuthoriiicH from the revival of Arctic exploration, 1818 to 1845. Barrow, Sir John. "A Chronological history of voyages undortaken chioUy for the iHirpose of discoveriiifj a N. E., N. W., or Polar I'assagc between the Atlantic and the Tacific. 8"^. London, 1818." [This vohune contains a synojjsis of tlie voyages made from the early periods of Scandinavian navi- gation to the revival of the search for the passage under Itiichan and Koss, 1818. The chief voyages of modern dates summarized are those of (!olum- bus (14'J2), the Cabots (1497), the Cortereals (lOOli), Cartier (1M4), Wil- loughby (1553), Burroughs (155(5), Frobisher (157(!-'78), Pet and Jaekman (1580), Gilbert (1583), Davis (1585), Barents (15n4-".)7), Jas. Hall (Kill), Hudson (1(J07-'10), Bylot and Baffin (1010), Luke Fox (1031), James (1031), Middleton (1741),lleanie (1709-'7l'), rhipi)s (1773), Cook (1770), Mackenzie (1789), Kotzebue (1815-'18), John Boss (1818), Buchan (1818).] Barrington, Hon. D. The possibility of approaching the North Pole asserted ; with an Ai)i)endix by Col. Beaufoy. 8°. London, 1818. Buchan, Capt. D. Voyage of discovery towards the N. Pole performed in H. IVL Ships Dorothea and Trent in 1818; edited in 1843 by Captain Beechey, E. N. (Lieut, on the Trent in 1818). Boss, Capt. John, E. N. A voyage of discovery made under orders of the Ad- miralty in her ]\Iajesty's Ships Isabella and Alexander for the purpose of exploring Baffhi's Bay and enquiring into the ])robability of a N. W. passage, 1818. 4°. London, 1819. Fisher, A. Journal of a voyage to the Arctic Eegions in 1818, in H. M. S. Alex- ander. 8°. London, 1819. Scoresby, W., jun. An account of the Arctic Eegions, with a history and descrip- tion of the Northern Whahj Fishery. 2 vols. 8°. London, 1820. Parry, Capt. W. E. Journal of a voyage for the discovery of a N. W. Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, 1819-'21, in her Majesty's Ships Heda and Griper. 4°. London, 1821. Von Wiangell, Baron F. Nan-ative of an Expedition to the Polar Sea in 1820. Translated by Col. Sabine. Fisher, A. Journal of a voyage of discovery to the Arctic Eegions in H. M. S. Hecla and Griper in the years 1819-'20. 8°. London, 1821. Journal of a second voyage for the discovery of a North West ])assage from the Atlantic to the Pacific in his Majesty's Ships Fury and Hecla, 1821-'23. 40. London, 1824. I.. n Prelim hi a rif ( ^h aptv r. xl VII Lyon, 0. F. The privato .Joiinial of ('ai)t. ti. F. Lyon of IL M. 8. Ili'cia duriii;,' the rcopnt voyage of discovery under Cajtt. Parry, lSLM-'23. 12°. Lon- don, ISlii. [f!()ntains nnieli of etlinolo/iical interest.] Franklin, Sir .loliii. Narrative of a .lourn(\v to tlie siiore of llie Polar Hea in the years 1S11I-'2L'. lo. London, lSL';i. I'urry, Capt. W. E. Journal of a third voyaj^e for the discovery of a N. \V. i>as- saj-e, l«21-'lir» : H. ]\r. Ships ne<-la and Fury. 40. London, 1820. Lyon, Capt. (J. F. A hrief Narrative of an unsu(!eessful attempt t«) reach l{ei)ulse Bay through Sir Thomas Hoe's Welcome in II. M. S. Gri])er in 1824. 8°. London, 1825. Franklin, ('apt. John. Narrative of a 2d Expedition to the shores of the Pohir Sea, including an account of a dc^tachinent to the Eastward by John Kieh- ardson, 1825-'27. 4°. London, 1828. Beechey, Capt. W. F., R. N. Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific and Bering's Strait to coo2)erate with the Polar expedition (Franklin's 2d land journey) in II. M. Shii> Blossom, 1825-'28. 8°. London, 1831. Koss, Capt. John. Narrative of a second voyage in search of a N. W. Passage, and of a residence in the Arctic regions during the years 1829-33, includ- ing the Reports of James C. Ross and the discovery of the N. IMagnetic Pole. 4°. London, 1835. Parry, W. B. Narrative of an attempt to reach the N. Pole in boats fitted for the purpose and attached to U. M. S. Ilecla in the year 1827. 4°. London, 1828. Lat. reached, 82° 43'. (The Spitzbergen route.) Back, Capt. Geo. Narrative of the Arctic Land Expedition to the IMouth of the Great Fish River and along the shores of the Arctic Ocean in the years 1833-'35. 4°. London, 183G. King, R., M. D. Narrative of a journey to the shores of the Arctic Ocean under Capt. Back in 1833-'35. Back, G. Narrative of an Expedition in H. M. S. Terror; undertaken with a view to Geographical discoveries on the Arctic shores, 183G-'37. 8°. London, 1838. Simpson, Thomas. Narrative of the Discoveries on the N. Coast of America effected by the Ofdcers of the Hudson's Bay Company during the years 183G-'3(). 8°. London, 1843. [An account of these, communicated to R. Geog Soc'y by Governor Pelly, of the Hudson Bay Co., in R. Geog. Soc'y Journal, vol. ^dii, 1838.] xlviii PrcHniinarif Chapter. II. Chief EngliHh and French Arctic piiltlicationH insucd between the yearn 1845 ami lH(iO. Ilnnow, Sir John. V«>yiij(»'s of Discovery and research within the An'Uc regions IVoni the year 181S to IStfi. 8°. Lon(»-'r.l. His report to Tlon. VV. A. Ciraluim in Sei;. Navy's Report, for 1851-'52. Hartsteue, Lieut. IL J., IT. S. N. Report of tlu> cruise of the Release and the Arctic in search of Dr. Kane; in Report of Hon. Sec'y Navy for 185r)-'50. Markhain, C. R., Sec. R. G. Socy. Franklin's footsteps; a sketch of (Jreenland along- the shores of which his Exi)edition passed and of the Parry Islands. 185;j. McDoufjall, F. The Eventful Voyage of U. IVL S. Resolute ui the Arctic regions in search of Sir J. Franklin, 1852-'o4. 8°. London, 1854. Osb(»ru, Capt. S., R. N. Discovery of the N. W. passage by Capt. McClure iu H. M. S. Investigator, 1850-'54. 8°. London, 1857. Stray leaves from an Arctic Journal, or 18 mos. Service in the Arctic regions. Armstrong, A. (M. I).). Personal Narrative of the discovery of the N. W. pas- sage while iu search of the Expedition under Sir John Frankliu, 1850-'54. 8o. London, 1857. Malte Brun, V. A., Vice Pres. Geog. Society of Paris. Coup d'oeil d'eusemble sur les diflferentes expeditions entreprises h la recherche de Sir J. Franklin et sur ses decouvertes g^ographiques. 8°. Paris, 1855. Roquette, M. de la. Des dernieres Expeditions faites A la recherche de Sir John Franklin et de la D6couverte d'un passage par uier de I'Oceau Atlantique ii I'Ocean Pacifique. Paris, 185G. Notice biographiquo sur I'Admiral Sir J. Franklin. 4°. 1856. Richardson, Sir John. The Polar Regions (from the Encyclopcedia Britannica). 1856. Life of Sir John Franklin in the Britannica. McClintock, Capt. F. Leopold, R. N. The discovery of the fate of Franklin and his Companions, 1859. 8o. Yoiing, Capt. Allen. The Search for Franklin. In Comhill Magazine for 1860. S. Ex. 27 IV ■i'i- :-ii^ I 1 PreJiminarff Chapter. Ilnycs, I. I. The Oi)on Polar S(mi. Narrative of a Voyage of disoovory in tlin Sclioonor United States. 80. New York, 18G0. ()sl)orn, Admiral Hlierard, If. N. Tlie Career, last voyage, and fate of Franklin. 8^. London, 1800. Malte lirnn, V. A. La destinee de Franklin devoilee. 8°. Paris, 1860. Brown, J. The N. W. Passage and tlie ])lans for the Search for Sir J. Franklin. 8°. London, 1SC0. This work contains a satisfactory review of both snh- jects, inclnding the results of MeClintock's voyage. OfBcial reports of the English expeditions, including such as those made l»y Dr. Rae and by Anderson who brought the first news of Franklin's exi)edition, and other returns which have not appeared in the form of narratives, will be found in the Parli inientary Paper3,beginning with the Instructions to Franklin, in the IJlue Books, and in the i)apers issued by the Admiralty Uydrograi)hic Oftlce. The re- jtorts and discussions of most value outside of these, will be found in the Journals and Bulletins of the European and American geographical societies; especially in those of the Royal Geogra])hical Society, London; the Bulletins de la Society de Geographic, Paris; the Annales de Voyage edited by Malte Brun, and the Jour- nal of the American Geographical Society, New Yorlc ; and in I'etermann's Geo- graphische Mittheilungen. Copious references to all of these are given in " Die Literatur iiber der Polar Uegionen," edited for the K. K. (ieographische Gesell- schaft, of Vienna, by Chavanne, Karj)!!", and Le Monnier. 80. Vienna, 1878. P i m V M. p HAPTER J- PREPARATORY WORK FOR THE SECOND EXPEDITION. SEPTEMBER, 1862, TO DECKMBlill, |}ltJ2. 8. Kx. 27 1 r 5 r OHAl'TER I. II f» r PREPARATORY WORK. Hall nirrruNs ki;().m iils Kihst Exri;i>rrioN — Tklegraphs krom St. John's, NkwI'OI'ndland, KXPRESSING ins PUUPOSIO OF A SkCOND VoYAOF. — WRITES TO MR. GRINNEI.L FROM C'lN- riNNATI, DESIRING TO PRESENT THE FROWSHER ReLICS TO THE ENGLISH PEOPLE— IIlS ABSTRACT OF DiLLON'S DISCOVERY OF THE RELICS OF La PeROUSE's EXPEDITION— StIDIES HaKLUYT, PuRCHAS, iVND OTHER AUTHORITIES, AND FINDS PROOF OF THE GENtriNENESS OF HIS DISCOVERIES— Reads a paper before the American Geographical Society, AVOWING his purpose OF RETURNING NORTH THE FOLLOWING SPRINC — ACKNOWLEDG- MENT iiv THE Royal Geographical Society of the receipt of the Relics — Cor- respondence WITH Mr. John Barrow and with Captain IJecher, R. N.. resultinc( IN the preparation of a new Arctic volume nv Admiral Colt.insox, R. N., for THE Hakluyt Society— Hall's account of his discoveries read hefore the Royal Geographical Society, London— Their genuineness confirmed iiv Rae. Harrow, Markiiam, and Young— His abstract of the three Expeditions of Sir Martin rRoiiLSHER — Addenda. Hall's prepamtioiis for his Second P^xpeditiori, which this Narra- tive is now to record, occupied a period of nearly two years. The labors of those years, by demonstrating the successful results of his first voyage, and by the interest created through the publication of his "Arctic Researches", secured his second outfit. Tlie purpose of the first voyage — to find the records of the Frank- lin Expedition, and, if possible, some of the survivors — was entirely defeated by the loss of his solo dependence — his boat. The purpose 4 The Franklin Boat-Crcivs. was but strengthened by defeat. He gave proof of this before liis arrival in the United States by a telegram from St. John's, Newfound- land, to his friends, Mr. Griimell and Mr. Field, of New York, and Mr. Greenwood and Mr. Bishop, of Cincinnati; a dispatch which began with the words, "I am bound for the States to renew voijage^\ and wliich reads throughout more like news from an excursionist than from one who had been fighting his way through two Arctic winters. The forti- tude into which those severe experiences had disciplined him, seems to have shown itself steadily throughout the succeeding two years of working and waiting which are now to be traced. Arriving in New London September 13, 1862, and placing under the care of Capt. S. O. Budington the Eskimos, Ebierbing {Joe) and Too- koo-li-too (Hannah), who had joined their fortunes with his own, two years before. Hall made a short visit to his family and to his earliest Arctic friends in Cincinnati. While there, his letters evinced nuich concern as to the opinions which the English people might form from the reports by the press of his late voyage, a hasty impression having been received from him that he had probably determined the fate of two boat^' crews of Franklin's Expedition. He had been led into this error by a party of Sekoselar Innuits, but promptly corrected it in the columns of the New York press, and, afterward, more fully in a paper read before the American Geograjihical Society and in the "Arctic Re- searches." His apprehensions were that before the first correction could reach England the error would prejudice the English against the gen- uineness of the discoveries he had been making in the region visited by Sir Martin Frobisher three centuries before. The apprehension proved to have been groundless. It had, how- MS: The ProjJosed Visit to England. 5 M ever induced Hall to decline lecturing- in Cincinnati, and to entertain a new idea in regard to his discoveries and to the proper disposition of the valuable relics of Frobisher's Expedition, which he had found on this first voyage. Writing to Mr. Grinnell, he expressed his belief that he ought to go over immediately to England and present these to the English sovereign and people, as Captain Dillon in 1829 had presented the remains of La Perouse's Expedition to Charles X and to the French nation.* He naturally set a value on his late explorations, and had reason to suppose they would interest the English people. He believed that the account given by Frobisher himself of the country he had visited, was so indefinite that for nearly three hundred years the civilized world had been in doubt of the precise localities. Beste's Narrative to bo found at that time only in Hakluyt's collection, and Barrow's history which Hall had in hand while traveling over the land, were proof enough of the indefiniteness of the geographical positions named by Frobisher. Up to the time of Hall's visit in 180 1, no opportunity had been embraced for identifying these localities, orforconfirming the record of what Frobishei''s three expeditions had reported as accomplished on * This he had found fully noted in the "Narrative and Successful Kestilt of a Voyage in the South, performed by order of the Government of British India to ascertain the actnal fato of La Perousc'a Expedition of 1785 ; made by Chevalier Capt. P. Dillon in 18'^8," His attention hav- inj; been closely drawn to this history, ho had made the following abstract, the italicized parts of which are those underscored in his manuscript, as arguments for liis yet finding survivors of Franklin's party. ■' Louia XVI and the French nation ' ing determined to contribute their share in enlarging our acquaintance with the globe and ' diabitants, ordered an expedition to Ije fitted out in 17H5, consisting of two of the tinent T ,., frigates, La Boussole and L'Astrolabo. Neither labor nor expense was spared in completing the expedition, to which were attaclied some of the ablest and most scientific men of Europe. "To secure tlu; success of this enterprise the ships' coniiianies of wliicli numbered 240 souls, it was deemed necessary to select a man of the highest professional tali'iit to command the expe- dition. La Perouse was chosen; his distinguished naval exploits, scientilic acquirements, .and enterprising character having pointed him out as the fittest person to b^ thus honored. "The expedition sailed from Hrest, August, 1785, and, after making discoveries in various f 6 The Survival of La Feroi(se\s Men. i those shores. The Admiralty chart of 1853 and that furnished for the volume of Do Haven's Ex])edition, still had upon them the so-called "Strait" as reported by Frobisher, which was supposed to be a passage westward to the further part of Hudson's Bay; but navigators have always chosen Hudson's Straits in passing to and fi-om that bay. Had any one attempt<'d the passage through what was laid down on their charts as Frobisher's Strait, they might have anticipated Hall's dis- covery, correcting Frobisher and proving this to be a Bay. But the language of nearly all of the geographical wi'iters on Frobisher's vo}'- ages was obscure, and the charts of the first half of the century, inaccu- rate. Hall had reason for desiring to prove the genuineness of his dis- coveries, and he expressed a wish to place his proofs before a committee that might be appointed in London to examine his notes, his relics, and himself Sir Martin's name was that of one of the first of Englishmen (luarters, anchored iu Botany Bay Jiiniiavy '<20, Vtff'. Hero La IVrouse met witli the British squadron under Governor Pliillijjs, and conunitted to him what i)roved to bo his last dispatches for France. At the close of February the French set sail for further discovery, but nothing more was heard of La Perouso for thirtij-cifiht nears, when Captain Dillon, eonnua.nding a vessel sent in search of the remains of the lost expeditiou, ascertained the fate of the lony lost navigator. On the island of Tucopia (Barnwell Island), lat. 12<-^ l.V S., long. 1(51)° W., Dillon, in 182()-'d7, obtained information that, many years before, two vessels liad been wrecked near the island of JIanicolo, within less than one day's sail of Tucopia. Through Martin Burhart, a Prussian who liad resided there fourteen years, Captain Dillon learned that many from the shipwrecked crews had escaped to the islands. He hastened to Manicolo and there procured many lelics from the natives ; and, from the depths of the seas in which the vessel had been wrecked, incontrovertible lu'oofs of their destruction forty years before; and at length he learned that many of the white men were saved, but that the last renuiant of ihcm had died oiilii three i/ciirs before, after surviving thirtii-sereii years from the time of the wreck. On the island of Manicolo liatl lived some of these survivors of the ill-fated expedition long after the world had given them n\> as dead. The expedition .sent out by Franco, under Admiral Eulreeasteau,in 1701, had visited La Croix, a few leagues only from Mani- colo, where survivors of the lost exi)edition were then living, and the inhabitants of botli islands had kept up constant ictercourse with each other. Vel this expedition, which was out six yeans, gained no intelligence whatever of La Perouse, while by that fearful scourge scurvy, it lost one hundred and twenty oflicers and num. though its voyage was im)stly in the warm zone. "Dillon's men numbered 87 souls, and, at one time, lu'arly every one was prostrated liy tho illseases of the tropical regi(m. Still, in that clime — more inhospitable than thai, mireli/, of Kiiitj fVilUam'K Land — did some of La Pentose's eompauious survive for iiiiirlii forty years/' I .* "* I Sir Martin Frohinhvr. 7 to sail in quest of the Nortlnvest ]\assap^o, and it was one of no less fame under Drake and Howard, for in 1588 he was knijjhted for service under the High Admiral against the Armada. Hall's enthusiasm 1 Mahtinus FROBisiiEni s, Eques Al'HATLS. (From "The Three Voyages of Martiu FrobiBher,"' edited by Aduiiml CoUiusou, K. N.) prompted hhn to say that the age of his Frobisher relics and the remarkable circumstances attending them stamped them as worthy gifts for Queen Victoria. Barrow liad shown him that the expeditions 8 Hall before the American Geographical Society. of Sir Martin were among tlie favorite objects of Elizabeth. She had shown her favor by her throwing around Sir Martin's neck a cliain of gold, and by her letters of praise written to him. Conferring, however, with Mr. Grinnell after returning from Cincinnati, he decided to send the relics out to England, to the care of Mr. Cornelius Grinnell, in place of exhausting his own means and de- laying his plans by a visit to London. In the mean time, a^jplying himself closely at the rooms of the American Geographical Society and of the Astor Library to the old authorities Hakluyt, Purchas, and others, he had the satisfaction of further confirming his discoveries. After a study of some weeks previously to meeting the Geographical Society, ho wrote to Budington: I find much that is valuable in proving that the relics are, beyond all ques- tion, Frobisher's. It will perhaps startle you to hear that one of his vessels went into the bay I call Ward's bay, through Bearo Sound. It may be the English will dispute my discoveries, but I covet the opportunity to show the facts. Opportunity for this was early afforded. At the meeting of the American Geographical Society, held, as at that time was usual, in the hall of the Historical Society, of New York, he was introduced by Mr. Grinnell and made a report which will be found noted in "the Pro- ceedings", under the title of "An abstract of a Paper on some Arctic Discoveries." In this paper, after referring to his statements before the society made two years previously. Hall re-stated in full that the original pur- pose of his late voyage was to visit King William's Land and Boothia, and there spend two years, if needed, in gathering materials for con- cluding in a more satisfactory way the history of Franklin's Expedi- tion ; to recover the logs of the ships Erebus and Terror, with all other manuscripts belonging to that expedition; and, especially, to rescue The Frohisher Colony. 9 f 5a t some lone survivor or survivors that peradventure mifi^ht l)e found living with the Eskimos. He then gave an account of Messrs. Williams and Haven's generously free conveyance to Northumherland Irdet of him- self and his Eskimo companion, Kud-lar-go, with his boat, provisions, and stores ; of his boat being wrecked the September following; and of his long residence with the natives, during which ho had ingratiated himself with them, adopting their style of dress, living in their snow huts, and feeding on their raw whale-skin, walrus and seal meat. With some exultation, he said that in September, 1861, he had landed on an island Avhich the Iimuits and their ancestors from time immemorial had called Kodlunarn, or White Man's Island, from the tradition that strangers had lived there and tried to escape from it; — on which island he had found remains of stone houses, coal^ iron, and glass, all covered with the moss of ages; and that he had visited every accessible place named by the Eskimos as connected with the fate of the strangers living there, as they said, "many, many years ago." lie added his convictions that he had thus been the first to revisit the ])re- cise localities of Frobisher's three expeditions of 157(), '77, and '7H, and quoted from Hakluyt and other works in which the materials taken out by Frobisher for the erection of stone houses and everything necessary for the colony of one hundred men are detailed; and he exhibited the specimens which he had brought from the ruins, asking the Geographical Society to inspect them rigidly in evidence for or against his statements. He then showed that during his two years' northern residence, he had explored over one thousand miles of coast, making as careful a survey as his means and instruments permitted, and proving that the water which had for three centuries been called Frobisher's Strait was 10 The Relics Indorsed as Genuine. a wide l).'iy. ITe added, '' Inaamucli as J have failed in the great object for which ] wont ont, it is my intention to try again in the following spring." The lOskimo family, Ebierbing, Too-koo-li-too, and their child, Tu-ker-U-Jce-ta (the Butterfly), who had come down from Grotoii in their full arctic dresses of deer and seal skin, were introduced to the audience. They exhibited a variety of costumes and implements, and with their yomig child were the objects of much interest, and were called on for many replies to questions interpreted to them by Hall. Valiuible donations of relics were sent to the Smithsonian Institution. A ]iart of the geological collections was presented to the New York Lyceum of Natural History, and was the subject of brief reports to the lyceum by Mr. II. P Stevens and Mr. Tnomas Egleston. [An account of this, and a discussion of another part of his collections, afterward presented to Amherst College by J. J. Copp, Esq., of Groton, Conn., will be found in Appendix III, illustrated by drawings of some of the fossils. This discussion, by Prof. B. K. Emerson, of Amherst College, is indorsed by Prof C A. White, of the United States Geolog- ical Survey of the Territories, as a desirable addition to our knowledge of the mineralogical and geological character of the Arctic Regions.] A number of other relics were exhibited at the residence of ]\Ir. Henry Grinnell for some time before their transmission to England. At the close of the year they were presented to the English people, through the Royal Geographical Society, London, whose acknowledgment of their receipt names: 3 cases and 1 cask of relics; and I piece of iron weighing 20 pounds. Hall sent with them a carefully prepared out- line sketch of Frobisher's Bay, and three diagram maps, one being that of the Countess of Warwicke Sound of Frobisher. In connection CorrcspoMilfiKr with Banniv and ofhrrs. 11 Avitli this (loiiiition, lie ciiterod into a coiTcspoiKlciioe nitli Mv. .Joliii liiUTOw, son of 8ir John liarrow who hiis hccn s<» jnstK st\ K'd tho FatluT of ]\ro(k'rn Arctic Phitoi-prise, with ('oninian(h'r A. IV Hcchcr, It N., of th(i AchniraUy, and with }t\r. (!. li. Markhani, then, as now, one of tho Seorctarios of the Hoyal (ieooraphicid Society, niakinfj;- close inqniries in regard to such j)oint8 in Frobisher's Iiistory as wei-e inaccessible to him, the manuscripts to be consulted being found only in the British MusiMun. His letters are in evidence of his earnest desire to ])ossess him- self of every fact in the history. The correspondence contains geo- graphical notes of intrinsic value, and shows that his cliunis its a discoverer were ])romj)tly admitted on the transparent consistency of the details given in his letter before the reception of his charts and relics. Commander Becher had published the results of his own investi- gations of Frobisher's voyages in an elaborate paper in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society (vol. 12, 18t2). On receiving Hall's letter to Barrow, he wrote to Hall : " I have no douht of your relics being those left by Frobisher's party. Warwicke Island and Sound wore the jjrincipal resort of the voyagers. I perceive that your lati- tude and mine of (^ueen lOlizaboth's Foreland are ])rotty near each other " This correspondence jn'oduced an incidental result which has proved valuable to geography and to the libraries of our day. Cap- tain Becher's purpose expressed in his letter to Hall, to urge upon the Hakluyt Society the issuing of a worthy reprint of Fr"|'4 'W-iWW I? 1^ o y 12 CoUinsovl's Volume Published. ;!i! Geographical Society's Journal, wlien publishing-, in 1842, the paper to which reference has been made : "Tiuit it was not creditable to England to have done so little for preserving and rendering available the records of the navigation of Frobikher's age." The explorations of Hall and the coiTespondence now referred to resulted in the preparation by Admiral Collinson, R. N., for the Hakluyt Society, of a new and valu- able volume of Frobisher's voyages. Admiral Collinson, C. B. — now Elder Brother of Trinity House, London — well known as himself an eminent Arctic explorer, has given in this volume a reprint from the first rare edition of Hakluyt's voyages, with selections from manu- scripts and documents in the British Museum and in the State Paper Office, accompanied by two rare old maps and a picture of Sir Martin. The work, issued in 1867, was cordially dedicated "to Henry Grin- nell, of New York, as a tribute of respect and admiration not only for his conduct and generous co-operation in the search for Sir John Franklin and his companions, but for the interest he had shown in, and the aid he had afforded to. Polar exploration in the present day." In the introduction to this work, Admiral Collinson said : lu the appendix will be found a list of the relics of the Frobisher Expedi- tion brought home by Mr. C. F. Hall in 18G3, which are now deposited at the Eoyal Geographical Society ; and I am one of those that believe that his exer- tions in exploring King William's Land for the journals and records of the Frank- lin Expedition will be attended with success. When this island was visited by Sir L. McOlintock and Cai>tain Hobson the ground was covered with snow. ]\Ir. Hall intends passing the summer upon it, and the knowledge he has obtained of the Eskimo language and character dui-ing his two years' residence in Frobisher Bay will enable him to gain their confidence. The catalogue of relics referred to by Admiral Collinson occupies, with its brief accompanying note, eight pages of this new Frobisher volume. It is signed by C. F. Hall, and dated from New York, Febru- ■I i HalTs Paper Head before the Royal Geographical Society, London. 13 aiy 7, 1863. At the tenth meeting of the Royal Geographical Society for that year, held April l'<, a paper prepared by liim to be read on the receipt of the relics was presented from Mr. H. Grinnell, and read by the Secretary of the society, Dr. Norton Shaw. This paper and the discoveries reported in it elicited the commendations of Sir R. Murchison, President of tiie society, and of the Arctic explorers, Sir George Back, Capt. Sherard Osborn, and Dr. Rae, and occasioned the following letter from Mr. John Barrow : 17 IlANOVEU TkUKAOE, RegenVn Pari; Ajml liith, 18G3. To 0. F. Hall: Sir : I tshould soouer have answered your letter of 25th of February, but there has beeu a longer delay than I expected in the reading of your i)ai)er owing to the Easter holidays. It was read on Monday evening at the lioyal Geographical Society in a very crowded meeting, many being unable to get seats. In consequence of a weakness in my throat I was compelled to give up all idea of reading it myself, as the room is ill adapted for hearing, being long and narrow, and the speaker fronting his audience in the centre ; consequently at the ends of the room it is not easy to command attention. However, our secretary, Dr. Norton Shaw, read it right well. He took great pains, and I assure you you might have heard a i^in drop during the whole time. The pajier was very well received, but as it was rather long and another pai)er to come on, the discussion was limited. Dr. Itae fully corroborated your statement of reliance to be ]»laced on Eskimo statements and traditions, I have sent you a report of the jiroceedings given in the Times.* Of course, it is very abridged. Cornelius Grinnell was present, and will doubtless write to you fully. * [Extract from a lutttr to Mr. Henry GrinDcU.] • * * I send you the Tiinos of the 15th instant, which gives a longer account tlian is usual for them to publish of the meeting of the Royal Geographical Society. I wish you had been there to hear the eulogy pronounced upon you by Sir Roderick Murchisou and Captain Osborn, and the manner in which it was received by the audionoo. The report in the Times gives but a faint idea of what was said. It was enough to make any of your family feel proud. It Heeuied as if Osborn could not say too much of the obligalitm 14 Encouragement. h ' As regards the final disposal of the Trobisber relics, I think they should either be phiced in Greenwich Hall or in the Boyal United Service Institution with the Franklin relics. Although youi letter has been unanswered it has not been neglected. Mr. Major, of the British Museum, whom 1 met at the Geograi)hical Society, is getting all the extracts you require made for you, and they will shortly be ready. Believe me, my dear sir, with best wishes for your success in your next enteri)rise, yours very truly and with great respect, JOHN BARROW. !i !'" The action of the Royal Geographical Society and the courteous and encouraging letters received from such officers as have been named, proved further incentives to Hall to prepare for a return Ij the fields of exploration. His disappointment in not receiving a single volume of the Hakluyt series, for v^^hich he asked in the correspondence with the secretar}'^ of the Hakluyt Society, was compensated for by a loan of the whole, at a later date, from the library of Mr. J Carson Brevoo/t, of Brooklyn, L. I. The charts which he needed were courteously forwarded by Captain Becher, of the Admiralty, during the ensuing season, through the British consul at New York. and iuclcbtcdnrBs of ovory Kiif^lishtnau to yoii nnd of the adniinition of your liberaltyand philan- thropy. The whole alfair ])asscd off most satisfactorily. Sir George Back spoke in high terms of Mr. Hall's perseverance and energy, and had no doubt that the relics were those of Frobisher. Rae, BaiTow, Young, Markham, and several others also expressed the same opinion. It was lihonght best to strike out that portion of the paper relating to the supposed remains of Sir John Franklin's expedition, as it would be painful to the feelings of their relations. Rao strongly corroborated the remarks of Mr. Hall regarding the truthfulness of the traditions of the natives. The relics will bo for the present exhibited in the society's rooms, for inspection of sciuntiiic mou, until their final disposition, which is in the hands of Sir R. Murchison and Mr. Brown. It was delightful to witness the respect and kind feeling exhibited by the oininent discov- erers present for the labors of a brother explorer. If Mr. Hall could only reach King William's Land and find the Records of Franklin what a nauiu ho could make for himself! I am afraid it can only be accomplished by a vessel to Prince Regent's Inlet or overland by Rae's or Anderson's route through the Hudson Bay Company's Territory I \i 3 K ? jTi- toi SVPPCSEU FOtMEIANII OK ^VIERICA a. < HalVa Historic Notes. 15 hall's ABSTUACT of TlIK FEOBISIIKR EXPEDITIONS. If O u X - hiin DO 3 d-" o< CD u oc z .03 O £E (OU o'z ll-U) , Ckmntess of Warwicke, whose name it bearcth" th«\v set sail homewards, and after a stormy passage, they all arrived safe in dilferent jKUts of Great Britain, with the loss only of one man by sickness, and another who was wiushed overboard. # • • THIRD VOYAGE (irOT). The Qneen and her court were so highly delighted "in finding that the matter of the gold ore had appearance and made show of great riches and prolil, and the hope of the passage to Cathaia by this last vojage greatly increased"; that, after a minute examinati. two hea<11an(l8 which marked tlie entrance to their '' Stniits." Look- ing to the northwest, they saw the sea still extending to the horizon. The tides and currents, too, set in from that direction ; and thus everything went to con - lirm Frobisher's belief that he hi;d found another Magellan's Straits. On his Sec- ond Exi)edition his lustnictions were not to push through the Strait into China for the preneHt, gold l)eing the first consideration. II. On his third voyage he found "such plenty of bhiok ore, that if the good- nenn might answer the gi-eat plenty thereof it might reasonably sutfice all the gold gluttons in the World." It is a well known matter of history that Frobisher loaded his ships with this ore, which, on bis return to England, proved to be but a black stone tilled probably with iron pyrites. It was used only for filling up the London Docks, and for ballasting ships. The Merchant, Michael Lok, who had pledged his means and credit for the outfits of the first and the third expedition, was shut up in Fleet-street Prison and with his fifteen children hopelessly ruined. Hall brought home some of the like stone, a small cpiantity of which, loaned with other relics by the Smithsonian Institution, was included in the Arctic exhibit placed for the Naval Observatory in the Government building at the late United States Centennial. The ore is sometimes called Fool's Gold. III. The author of the latest account of Frobisher's voyages says of Hall : Nearly three centuries elapsed before the Countess's Sound and Island were again visited by an Anglo-Saxon, and he was an American. In 18(51-'2 Captain C. F. Hall spent two years among the Eskimos. The Countess's Island he found to be called Kodlunarn, or the Island of the white man. The account he received from the natives of Frobisher's visits is a curious confirmation of the value of tradition among savage peoples. Captain Hall had not then read any naiTative of the Admiral's three voyages, and heard the tnulitions as a new and strange tale, which he was not then in a position to test or correct. He was told that the white men's ships had come, first two, then three, then many. The white men had taken away two of their women, who had never come back. Many fragments of brick, tiles, iron, et cetera, were shown him. Beste's Bulwark was traced. The small house of lime and stone had been well built, for Addenda fo TTalFs Notes. 19 CaptAin riall fonml it after tlio three eonturie8, in a jjood Ntato of preservation. Tlioy told liini also how that their ])eop!ng and six feet deep, whicli the white men hiul dng, whihi on tlio shore was an int^lined trench or slip. Ilere the live captive English- men, liaving dug up the buried timbers of the Fort, built a large boat, which had a msuit in her, with sails. Their boat had proved to be a tloDting cotlin; for, according to the natives, the Englishmen having finished their craft, set sail too early in the sesuson ; some froze their hands in the attempt ; yet they had finally set out, and had never been seen afterwanls. Such was the sequel of the story of the five Englishnieu who ha that op the two Eskimos— His care OF these people ; death of Tuk-ee-li-kee ta — Friends gained for the Second Expe- dition—Plan of an Expedition submitted by Hall, March 17, 1863, to Mr. Grin- nell and U. H. Chapell, of New London, Conn. — Hall's preference for a plan WHICH would not INCLUDE WHALING — FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES — EMBARUABSMENTS IN forming new friendships— Determination to go out a second time, even for an ABSENCE of TEN YEARS — EXPECTATION OF FINDING NEW WHALING GROUNDS— CORRE- SPONDENCE ON THIS SUBJECT WITH MR. R. H. CHAPELL AND PROFESSOR BaCHE, SUPERIN- TENDENT United States Coast Survey— Disappointment as to assistance from the LEGISLATURE AND FROM THE NeW YORK CHAMBER OP COMMERCE— FAILURE TO OBTAIN A LOAN OF INSTRUMENTS FROM THE GOVERNMENT— CARD TO THE PUBLIC, POSTPONIN(i THE Expedition to another year— Hall resumes work on the "Arctic Re- searches"— Lectures BEFORE THE I^ONG ISLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY — MaY, lH(i4. RENEWS HIS APPEAL, INDORSED BY LEADING CITIZENS— LOANS OF INSTRUMENTS— FUEE PASSAGE TENDERED BY MR. ChaPELL— HOSPITABLE RECEPITON AT NEW LONDON— SAILS FOR St. John's. His first expedition having secured an honorable place in history, Hall now entered upon a course of lectures, chiefly with the design of convincing the public of his probable success on renewing exploration; but with the additional I'easons found in the necessity for securing support for himself and for his two Eskimo friends. He seems to have been carefully mindful of their welfare. "Everything," he wrote to Captain Budington, "must be done to protect the health of these peo- ple ; the assistance which I hope to receive from them on my sledge trip is too important for us to relax our exertions to have them com- fortable." For their benefit he accepted ofiiirs of compensation for 33 24 HalTs Lectures. theii* temporary attendunce at museums in New York and Boston ; but, on learning their personal discomfort, incident to a close and heated atmosphere, he followed the advice of friends in refusing his consent for their presence at any other lectures than his own ; and this as more consistent with the character of his work. During the months of December, 1862, and January, 1863, lec- tures in Providence, Norwich, Hartford, New Haven, Hudson, Elmira, and other cities secured the attendance of large audiences. Among the prominent citizens of Providence who invited him to that city were Hon. H. B. Anthony, President Sears of Brown University, Hon. J. R. Bartlett, Prof. J. \\ Angell, Gov. J. Y. Smith, Ex-Go v. E. Dyer, and Maj W. M. Rodman. After the Arctic lecture in Hartford, Professor Silliman indorsed Hall's work and his proposals for a new expedition by saying, in the Hartford Courant : Mr. Hall possesses much knowledge not found in books, the fruits of his own experience ; tlie discoveries he has made in the Polar Regions are regarded l)y geographei's as of decided importance. Indeed, he did not himself realize that importance until since his return after more than two years' exile. No civ- ilized man has, heretofore, been able to identify himself so completely with the Eskimos. Speaking their language and adopting their modes of life and of voyaging, lie is enabled to reach with safety, and even with comfort, regions hitl'erto deemed inaccessible. Old Martin Frobisher lias become rcdivivtia under the very unexpected revelations now made. At these conversational lectures Hall traced on his maps of the localities he had visited, the tracks of the old voyagers Frobisher, Davis, Baffin, and others, as well as his own late explorations. The United States flag, loaned by Mr. Grinnell to the expediton of Dr. Kane, and borne by him so near to the Pole, was always saluted by the audience ; and the Eskimo family were objects of much interest as i: '=^;i Hairs Lectures. 25 among tlie first of their race who luid domiciled in the United States. Too-koo-li-too showed an unexpected knowledge of the geography of her country, reminding Arctic students of the native woman Iligl'mk, and of her chart drawn for Parry. The lecturer himself could not claim the polish or the ease of oratory, but as he handled his subject with tact as well as enthusiasm, ho succeeded in secunng close atten- tion on the part of the audience, and was ready to answer numerous inquiries. His friends regretted that, under a general rule against all pay lectures, the Smithsonian Institution could not give him the use of the audience room in which Kane and Hayes had lectured, for he had hoped to interest the officers of the Government at Washington, and obtain an appropriation, and had been encouraged towards this by prominent men. Ho seems to have been wholly unable to realize how small is the circle of the liberal for scientific purposes and how nar- rowed that circle was at the time by the war. He solicited the aid of the Hon. Henry Wilson, of the United States Senate, to obtain an ap- propriation by Congress of $25,000. The proceeds of the lectures were by no means encouraging. He had ])roof of their having secured many friends in eminent positions, but as to the pecuniary gain "he was even worse off than when he started out." The necessary expenses generally devoured the pro- ceeds of admission fees, made low to suit the war times. Contrary to the general supposition, nothing at all adequate to the support of his Eskimos was ever realized from this source ; the contributions for them from Mr. Grinnell, however, exceeded six hundred dollars, and other generous friends not unfrequently volunteered their aid. In despite of discouragements, Hall still pushed forward his plans, publishing his first outlines of them in the columns of the Now York . li' 26 ' Sarif/uine Hopes. Journal of Commerce, December 3, 1862 Very probably a sanguine temperament, excited sometimes by even a few strong words of sym- l)athy from friends, prompted him to give unwarranted weight to such words. As a picture of his feelings and of his way of recording his experiences, a single extract is given from a letter written at this date : "My heart is too full to record the happiness of a meeting to-night. ]\[r. Grinnell's whole family are so deeply devoted to my renewed expedition, that Mr. G. and his wife offer their son, now in the United States Navy, to go with me to King William's Land, and, if need be, he will contribute $10,000 to insure a research. 'There mtist be some- thing more done,' he said, ' in search of Franklin's Expedition.' " "When England hears of this," Hall wrote to Budington, "I would not wonder if other expeditions should follow." This last expression was made at a time when the English Government were adhering to their final refusal for all further search. The subject was not, indeed, revived in any official form until the unsuccessful proposi- tions of 1865 were discussed by the Royal Geographical Society, after Hall had again sailed. Had he not been sincere in his statements that his object was primarily the relief of Franklin's party, he would hardly have laid this stress upon the hope that other expeditions would come out from England for the same object. His private note-books and diaries are trustworthy witnesses of the influences under which he brought his thoughts during this penod of study and personal preparation. The following selections are taken from one of these books, which contain chiefly extracts and careful ref- erences to scientific authorities : Our greatest glory consists not in never fulling, but in rising every time we fall. # * » The (luestion is not the luimber of facts a man knows, but how much of u tact he is himself. * * * Great personal activity at "^mB ■;«,--"-St..: . 2^1 ^•■'*r^>^fe *»■■;- ■ ■;'■ jw- ..pi;. .J.:.,,. ., ■••• -#3 ^&; .■:,,;•{.-■ |*;%^^j:SSii-.;, 7-' X-"'"^ .-; it"' » ■•• - M - ■» -r ■'I-. N.- ^. . ■'.! I I ''J- r> i'kji ' ; .■ ii I ul! i . ■>.<'<■.. ■: a.iv-1 !' I • .- i •■ • .' i ■ ... . "'Itj >'i i'i!:-i . ■! ^\ ■■ . ■ ; i.-'V ;': ■•, '• :iU •■..,. ' ';r!> ": ..;' ■ ■' : --M-i ..'.•• • . .j;; , ; ;. , i{. '. • I ,.1 •! i.ii'- '.ill.':'' .1 ill i. ('•-■•;!( 1/ ■• . '■'.:■ '■'■.'•"■>'' ..• _"i^ I: il"'i!ii I h-;;:,! . ■ ■ ' : \ li .1 . ! . ' ' 1. > ; t| I .' ', 1 , ! .'■; ■■ : ,'l i: I >; 1 i !' . I • ■ ■ ■ ■ < I ( . I ' . 1 1 i.t ' ■•.:;i!'' ,1.1.; ;'i '('•;. , 1 \ ) ' ' ■ "• .i;.)' ' il';i - •1:. T:,,',> lil , ;||- I'vi'i . ^'■ i)i..i'' <- J ..-..td, ;i ! ■ ii. • l- ■■:'•'•■>■ ■ r. ' ;'.ll f I: i.fi-'f !. li'i.. !i. li' ■ ■ < ii/'iLi.";i!'i;', 'i >>(■■ !«-ii -ni. •'■Mill ..n;' •,. .: i ' ;.!i'lfi I . ! . ' l!' .1'. ■[t>\ '.ir(ni(;:lit to ihi- Htates, tin- latter to be my interpreter. VII. Sterry and a i)art of the natives I take from Frobi.slier's Bay, to be left at the head of He])nlse Hay, in eharfje of a depot of provisions to be established there. Furthermore, the duty of Sterry and the natives to iiunt and capture seals and walrus, and barter with the natives around I!e])ulse Hay for walrus ivory, Polar bear, fox, wolf, and other skins, for the benelit «tf all eoncierniul. VIIT. A cheap frame house, to be constructed (portable) here in the States, the same to b(^ landed at Keimlse l>ay, and to be used there for storinjf provisions therein, and also as a residence and for head(piarters. (Sucih houses are now used by whalers in Northund)erland Inlet. IX. Providiiuf such an eino'ficvcij drive that I sliuuhl he oMujeit to retreat from iJoothia and Kinj;- William's Land and seek provisions, and also for a )>lace to recruit, I should be certain of tinding' the same at all times at Itepulse l>aydei)ot. X. Occasionally to send an Eskimo friend, with sledj^-e drawn l)y doj^s, from Loothia and Kiuj; William's Land t(» headquarters at l{epu!se Uay for anything that 1 might require. Without doubt 1 shall have occasion to send to lJe])ulse Bay many i)ackages of relics I may lind of Sir John l-'ranklin's Expedition. If I have the great good fortune U) discover the Shii)s Erebus and Terror's i)apers, it will be my duty to accompany the same in their transport to liejadse Bay. After securiiui these as treasures ofvntold value to the civilized world, 1 am then to return to King William's Land and Boothia and ])rosecute the search. Should I be still more fortxniate, and should I tiud living anu)Ug the Eskimos one or several of Sir John Franklin's men, my heart, overwhelming with unsjieakable Joy, will direct me then and there what is best to be done. XI. Provisions of the most condensed character, such as pemmican, Bor- den meat, biscuit, desiccated meat, and vegetables, to be provided for the Ilepulse Bay depot ; also, a jtroper quality of Hour, sea-bread, amnnniition, guns, astronom- ical and other instruments, medicines, clothing, a Ilaklet boat, &c., &(%, including proper articles for bartming with the natives and for (iompeiisating the services I may require of them ; pei'hai)s it may be well to add wood and coal to these articles, the same to be used as fuel at Ilepulse Bay headquarters. XII. By establishing headquarters at liepulse Bay as indicated above, hav- ing there a whale-boat strongly coustracted, and having there also Frobisher Bay Eskimos, there need to he no hinderance to the force employed on the vessel from prose- cuting to the fullest extent that branch of the expedition, to wit, whaling. 30 Plans Suhmitird. W XIII. Rliould such sucroHH bo met with that tlio v(>hh«'1 bocoiiion filled with whahtoil iiiul lion» boforu I have. <>(>iii|>l(^t(>(l iii,v icHoarcli for th(^ obJ('(;t aiul at tho jmiiit dcHiyiu'd, tho saiiu) to bo rosliippod by HOino other vomhoI to tho StatoH, or tho voHHol to bo Hont liomo, taking; \i\o\\\i my dlspatchj's and such n^lics a.s \ may have rocovored ; said vossol to sail from tho StatCH the folh)wiiiK Hpriny for Jtepnlso Bay. XIV. The wliohi expenses of tho expedition to bo ])aid from tlie proceeds of the whaliii;; braneli, providing tho amount warrants it. XV. Tho expenses of the research department to bo inchidcd in tho first cost of the vessel, outfit, &<;. XVI. This expedition to bo known as "The Franklin Research Expedition"; the minor details of it only to l)o understood by tho ])artio8 moat deeply interested. XVII. By havin;^ a boat's crow at llopulse Bay head(|uartors shore-whal- ing could be prosecuted. One boat's crow might bo made up of tho natives. Tho policy of adopthig this scheme could be determined on ac(piiiing information of the natives at Repulse Bay whether or not it is a gooVo have, however, full conlideuce not ouly in the ability of Captain Ilall and his Naval associates to make important additions to the geography of the rolai- ] legions, but also in his interest in science and his determination to do all in his power to assist in determining the scientific operations. If he was enthusiastic in the extreme, there was some method in his enthusiasm. It marks a strongly determined purpose that he should write in his private journal, in connection with his feelings as quoted above — I may record my opinion that I cannot succeed in getting tlie necessaiy co- operation of my countrymen to carry out my i)roposed expedition. Ood only knows my struggles. But, single handed and alone, I will yet accomplish my purpose — for I know it is a just and noble one — or die in attemi)ting it. I will, if possible, get pa..oage for myself, Ebierbing, and Too-koo-li-too in June next to Frobisher I5aj'. By degrees I will push northward and westward till I reach Ig-loolik, and thence to llepulse Bay, and in time to Boothia and King William's Land, the Meta of my aspirations. By this route it will take me three years to to reach Jving William's Land, three years to return — in all I shall expect to be absent ten years. His two cherished objects were to be as steadily pursued if he went alone as they could be were he fully equipped; and he was encouraged in the idea of securing substantial benefits to American whaling inter- ests by the replies received from New London, then vigorously pursu- *ng that branch of industiy. His inquiries of the whaling firms of that city had been in relation to the value of the whale oil and bone brought home in American ships from Davis Straits, Northumberland Inlet, and Hudson's Bay. S. Ex. 27 3 ■f: S| 't ^11 34 Correspondence as to Wlmlinfj. Writing to Mr. R. II. ChapcU, he said : You know the valne of exploring expeditions, how they opened up the Spitzbergcn whale-fishery, and those of Davis Strait, BafTin's Bay, and Hudson's Bay. I am gi-eatly in hopes of demonstrating to yon on my proposed expedition that a channel exists north of Hudson's Strait and running eastwardly from Fox Channel, which will be found to abound in whales, and through this channel an American passage to Hudson's Bay will be ibund, the right to which England can never question. The great area of our commerce should not be allowed to go down. He received the following reply : You ask of me some information relative to the important and growing branch of the whale-fishery now prosecuted by American vessels in the waters west of Greenland and Baffin's Bay. Within the last six years this new ground has opened up a new and fruitful field for the enteri)rise of our hardy seamen. From 1840 to 1852 but one American vessel fished in these waters. She made six voyages, taking in all about 3,500 barrels of oil and 51,000 poiuids of bone ; and from 1853 to 1858 five different vessels returned from these waters bringing 75,000 barrels of oil and 115,000 poumls of bone, worth $130,000. Owing to the dangers of ice navigation and want of knowledge of the coun- try, the business on the whole had not to this time been profitable to those who prosecuted it. Since 1859 more energy has been displayed and greater risks incurred in following this trade. In 1860, two fine ships were fitted out from Fair Haven, Mass., at a large cost, for the exi^ress puri)Ose of pushing still far- ther west toward Fox's Channel or Hudson's Bay, where no American vessel had ever been, in search of a new and better whaling ground. Without accurate charts, in waters totally unknown, among much ice and strong currents, in short days and long nights, in fogs and gales of wind, with large compass variations, these jwlventurous navigators pushed their way and reached the longitude of 90° west, spent a winter there, when the thermom- eter fell to 00° below zero, obtained cargoes worth some $00,000, and returned to the United States in 1801. At the present time there are fourteen American vessels engaged in whaling in these waters. Seven of these have passed the last winter there, and will bo expected home the coming fall with cargoes worth nearly $400,000. In the prosecution of tins business we need, very nuich, good charts. The i I I Correspondence with Professor BacJie. 35 best I have ever seen were drawn by some of the intelligent Eskimos,* to whom the ships are often indebted for acts of humanity and kindness. The latest English charts and the reports of the Eskimos say that a new channel can be found leading from Baffin's Bay to "Fox's Furthest"; could this be proved by act- ual ])as8ago it would be of great use to oui' ships. I wish you every success in your i)roposed voyage, and liave no doubt that it will redound to the advance- njent of business interest of our merchants and the enterprise of our people. Verj^ truly, yours, R. n. CHAPELL. Contemplating a lengthened residence in the localities visited by the whalers. Hall expressed his purpose to reach all such as would appear to be promising for the extension of the whaling interests. How near at this date he sanguinely supposed himself to have arrived towards the maturity of his arrangements for setting out, may be learned from the letter which follows. It was addressed to one who had more than once expressed much interest in his plans, Prof. A. D. Bache, the distinguished Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey : June 5, 1863. Dear Sir; Your favor of May 22d was duly received. I have tran- scribed a few lines from it : " If you will give a brief outline of your plan and state what observations you intend to nuike, and what instruments you have not, I will try as an individual to aid you, and I think that Professor Henry will do so too." In reply to this I will say : It is now arrsinged that I leave the port of New York on or about the 1st of July next, in a vessel of one hundred tons, the vessel specially selected and strengthened for ice navigation. On reaching the north side of Bay of Frobisher, lat. 62° 33' N., long. 05° 00' W., I take aboard four (4) atlditional Eskimos (I have now two (2) with me). These Eskimos are to be my *For some sketches of coast lino drawn l)y Eskimos for Hall, sec chapters xii to xiv, ISOCPCa. For statistics of the whale-lishery of the region referred to, see Report of Prof. S. P. Baird, IT. S. Fish Conmiissioner, for 187.5-76, and U. 8. Consul McDongall's tabular statements, Appendix No. VIII of this Narrative. 36 Correspondence with Professor Baclie. auxiliaries in connection with the few whites that go to make up my ship's com])any. From Frobisher's Bay I drop down to Hudson's Strait, and sail westerly and northerly to the meridian of 72° west of Greenland, north side of said strait, and here commence explorations, getting data for filling up the now blank on the English and American charts between the meridian named and 75° west longitude. Between these meridians I shall find an extensive inlet trending north. This discovery will prove of great value to our commerce, as this inlet abounds with whales of the Mysticetus kind. I gained the information relative to this bay and its inhabitants from the Eskimos I met when exploring the so-called Frobisher Straits, which, you know, I determined to be a bay. This part of the coast completed, I pass to Fox Channel. On arriving to "Fox's Furthest," lat. 00° 50' N., commence exploration and continue it to the Strait of Fury and Hecla. From Eskimo reports, I shall find a strait of great importance, for it is wide and abounding with some species of whales referred to. This strait connects Fox's Channel with Davis' Strait. If I find the Strait of Fury and Hecla navigable (that is, clear of ice) shall push through it for Gulf of Boothia, and then turn to the north, exploring the west coast of Cockburn Island to the parallel of Bellot Strait. Having made the passage to and through the latter-named strait, shall turn to the south, coast- ing along the west side of Boothia Peninsula till I arrive to the latitude of King William's Land, the latter being the point of my destination. On completing my investigations here and on the Isthmus of Boothia Felix, relative to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, I shall make my way for Behring's Strait by way of the Straits of James 0. Koss, Dease and Simpson, Dolphin and Union. If I am not able to penetrate through the Strait of Fury & Hecla, shall turn to the south to Repulse Bay, drop anchor, and establish headquarters ; then from this point, by means of dogs and sledges, and the aid of Eskimos, shall make joui-neys to Boothia Isthmus and King William's Land. The voyage I pro- l)ose to make mil extend over three years. Respectfully, C. F. HALL. The sanguine hopes expressed in this letter were, however, again to bo disappointed. It is unnecessary to detail the continued embarrass- ments and rebuffs which brought this result; they had nearly culmi- nated when Hall made the journal entries which have been quoted. JJiaappointments 37 ill Yen Ito is- His insurmountable difficulties at the time may be referred to in brief as these : Although, at the instance of Judge Daly and of Mr. Waddell, the secretary of the American Geographical Society, its council had made two efforts to hold a conference with the Chamber of Commerce of New York to indorse the plans referred to, and secure pecuniary assist- ance for them, it was found impossible to get together a quorum of the Chamber for a hearing. A second disappointment was met with in the failure to secure, either from the Navy Department or from the Smithsonian Institution, the loan of instruments for the expedition. The Navy Department did not feel authorized to loan the public property for use by a private expedition. The Smithsonian regretted that the magnetic apparatus furnished to Dr. Kane had been after- ward lost in Mexico; and in communicating this information added that "scarcely any results could be obtained, unless some one properly educated for the business of observation should devote his whole time to the instruments." The Institution inquired at considerable length whether Hall would not find it in his power to make extensive col- lections in natural history, as it possessed but little on that subject from Nortlujastern America. Hoping for assistance by a grant from the Chamber of Conmierce or by the City Council of New York, and encouraged by some dona- tions. Hall had anchored at the wharves of the city, on the same day. The Active, a schooner offered at a low price by his New London friends, and a yacht, presented by Capt IT. Robinson, of Newburg, N. Y., for the strengthening of which latter vessel lumber had been also contributed in Newburg, and a further most generous offer had been made for its e(iui|)uuMit by Messrs I'oillou, (»f New York, lie 38 Card Issued. had also made an arrangement with Messrs. Ilaiper, the generous piib- lisherss jf his forthcoming "Researches," by which he had leave to post- pone further work upon the volume until his return from his proposed voyage Biit the local embarrassments and the excitement growing out of the opposition to the enforcement of the Registration act, passed to secure the necessary enlistments of soldiery for the existing war, appear to have entirely withdrawn attention from all subjects of less moment than the engrossing war-topics, and to have closed off the increase of private contributions. Hall had met more than one citizen able and willing to put good wishes into the form of that practical aid for which New York is well noted; but they were restrained by such feelings as Horace Greeley expressed in strong terms when he said to him, "No other idea should now be entertained by any man who loves his coun- try except crushing the rebellion; when that is accomplished one might take hold of an Arctic exj)edition." The New London schooner was, therefore, returned to her owners, and the yacht Victoria, with the lumber contributed by Mr. John Biglow, was sold, that its proceeds might be invested for use during the next available season. The time necessary for preparing an expedition for the year 18G3 having now passed away. Hall, thus hopelessly hemmed in by obstacles as insurmountable as the ice-masses he had left two years before, devoted himself laboriously to the completion of his book, and issued the following card : New York, July 10, 18G3. To my Countrymen : Wliilo on my Arctic, voyjige of 18G()-'()l-'02, 1 ]>Ianne!'S'''«<.;v*' jfh:..^'- ^<-^U^ C^.fi.f^fr^^ /^fi. fr»t^ /Ve-c-t^^ •'. '.' ' '1111 .'i till (i.;., '"Ii ,'1. .1..1I • 1 K'lii ;li.' i'i»-iiin'''i';i . iii:i, iv I u ii . li.'i • .. 'i' (iinl. ■.• .''' I" III '.';i'''i iiMc ■■•,1" . , ' ' ( \'. 'isi ■ 1- M ; II lif iil),-t ! \ .il ''I'li • ii,i Ir. ; '■ ■; 1 ill iii.l : '.! ' • 1:1 !■ !•>.' ir'''' iiM 111 -'r ; 1 ' 111 .■ :''i.Mit ••.|i-,j.;' I i't;- 'iiiilil ;■• vi/\ 1 ' .1'. i.("? X-', *•'•!> i; \<-l !''<|llll« '. ';;! ■ ■ t l;i':"< 1 ■.! Liii .. •>( ..li ,il ,ii,v r-ilc. -.* !!.•:',.■■ 'li-n-i' ,;!., > ',\U >\ : ' '.'w.i . »': •'■■l''n •■jii'-irW • ;)/,..,• ^^ i\\ i..r |;< '-ail I'l^' Jiiit j.;ii ■ .Ml ''1 i-"i I'lir I'ii ' ,,!•'. i;- ;.»("•' ii ir. ; (1 1 i, 1.1 11 !<■''■ ' ■ ji. •■•! ; v r' !i ;. ii'i 1 1 1 ■ •' ( ;• I I ! 1 . '•' j !i ; 1 ^ 1 11 , ,: t tif :' M, ' ; ,1 /r 1 . u'l 11; > I '. •.* !i !■ ' I ] M'l' < .. •!.' ., . »i .I'llill .ii" ■ 111 i>:i''! k' '1 ji[>lii--.. ..r ••11. .1; III- ''ii' 1} . ••• ' .. ,1 Ii', 11! 1 'if miin'i • ^'1 • , !i ■ \> i ••• I- 1 ;.,ii i 1:- , ii : I !i- 1 'm ; '■! litis |iT- ,;.■ i'\ ,i';i\ i-;i;i'.-i.ri--( . A. ' • \)-'i' s 1. !:!•'■; .' '!• !. .j.v.M ::>J ^^ . I';. I '. \i \ > A. \v. l.D.'t;. :!i:'.!'N' <,L"\\i 11,. iOl'N vl -^1 l\ SI i;\ i.NS. • • 1 ■ ■\ It; \'. "I'Ul. :ll ^tI^!!■•.'• i:l),«;il,-l'j'" illili'i-i- ••■••''■ ; •.•'■:i ■.' ''..•^••■M! t.. .-Ik-,-.'. ii>i-ii', iU'.rc . .'I'llLtlh !' •.'. r i!:.i ni'i.n lii'i '»• (I,.; ii;viu(-,^ i;i^ 1, ii;!i| ■; l!;.)-' 1/. •'•. Oi i,(/!l r-!:M!il|I ^■, ;-lli-ll ;»:• i >.1l- V't ti-'l l^'IC/ ^ (-^il-";!:-- \Vr:!i. I'li-i W. o. Ni'^\;.:i tii.i ^I'-i' '! i'iii'l'f-. ■.'■.'V.\\ i.-MiC'i !'>if^ I,') '.11,1111 , •• v.'i' -J"';!!'!-!!, M'fl.i.;'.'iit to .'{'Mi • : .U'/'IUV •■ 'Mit. .. ■• ■■• ■ .'.1-i .-'lll■^•^;^ ' »,r.i\ I I'lilril'.ii''!' :ii'' l-,)-;" "i ;i .■';:'.l ii.i .1 circir. '!"];■■ ii:unit ill liiit i 1: l|cm;.:!;Ti! i;i.';'-riirUv'Hl !!!;ik(:|:>, t- Ni;.'-!!.-^^ .■■■.i;irk ji.ii'.' i\. !*v.>;iiii l>li-.-. (.C" '.'«>.. Tn^i-li, I hiu', l"..L'_« :•; ,in.,l ]''.■: v Sm;v V(.'rv I ■>r(l.iul!\ ^u.:, 'f'ii.rli^t.'!! tits.' 'i.si i)\- .'i>i! 1 - Vi h.lt' ■; i-> iih'rc'i;. ( '■■y y f ■ jHi,- '■\'i<.-L. Enco n raff cm en t.s. 41 IIo iH^liovcs Hint tlio iU!<|uiMitinii of the loj,', clmrt, and scicntifU! tlocunu'tits of tlm Frimkliii Kxiwditioii, \vlii<'li lie hopi's to fliul, will he of fji'^'iit itniMtrtiiiice; Hint i>rol»iil»l,v tlu' iiioMt t'xti'iisive sciioH of ol>H(>rviitioiis on t«'iT«'.Htrial iiiiiy;ii»'tism liatl Im'cii iiiiult' Ity tin' t'.\|M'(litioii hrforo tlu\y iibiuidoiu'd their .sliips. Ihi expects to return in id»oul three years. In orih'r to eonijih'te tiie out lit, a .sum of about lit.'M'OO is yet rerations in the inhospitable rej;ions to which ho is bound. 8ubscri))tions in money, or donations in kind of supplies, or ^^oods for the expedition, may bo handed to any «)f the nndersij^ned, who will see that thi-y aro pr»»pcrly applied in aid of this praiseworthy enterprise. J. CAKSON BKEVOOKT. JAMES w. ]u:ekman. A. W. lUTKU. IIENItY GKINNELL. B. & G. W. 1]li;nt. JOHN AUSTIN STKVENS. The press of the city of New York in strong language indorsed this appeal, and public sentiment began to show itself, more cordially and favorably. Under the influence of the names cited, and of those of other citizens of high standing, such as Cyrus W. Field, Peter Cooper, Angustus Ward, Prof R. S. Newton, and j\[arshall Lefferts, some liberal collections of moneys were secured, sufficient to com- plete a moderate outfit. The U. S. Coast Survey Office contributed the loan of a sextant and a dip circle. The nautical and mathematical instrument makers, Messrs. Negus, Stackpole & Brother, Bliss & Co., Tagliabue, Eggert & Son, and Pike & Son, very cordially supplemented the list by dona- tions; while other merchants as readily resjionded, accompanying their '■ 4 ii 42 A Free Passage Offered. contributions with pleasant words, and tendering to Hall the oppor- tunity of his own selection from their stock. Mr. R. H. Chapell, of New London, already quoted as Hall's firm friend, now cordially offered to him a free passage in his whaling brig Monticello, which expected to sail for Hudson's Bay about the 15th of June. In 18*>0, Mr. Chapell was in the employ of Messrs. Williams & Haven, when that firm so generously assisted Hall by their gift of a free passage in the George Henry. He was now a shipping merchant on his own account. In forwarding his offer to Hall, he wrote, "I shall make no charge or receive any compensation from you for the passage of yourself and Eskimo friends in the Monticello, appreciating your zeal in a good cause, and being much interested personally in all that pertains to the icy regions." In this connection it is proper to state also, from personal testimony of the masters of the whalers belonging to these New London firms, that their contributions were by no means limited to the matter of free passage. Throughout both of Hall's expe- ditions these vessels, which had their fishing stations and also win- tered near him, frequently supplied hip iH cessities, in accordance with the expressed or well-known wishes oi t leir employers. They also took out, gratuitously, supplies sent by Mr. Grinnell and others. '*! Hall was now ready to sail. On the 30th of June, accompanied by Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, he an'ived at New London, and was cordially received by its citizens, the proprietor of its chief hotel, with others, extending him full hospitalities. Embarking on the Monticello on the following day, the party were watched by hundreds of people as the ship went down the harbor, and were cheered by the United States gunboats, lasco and Marblehead, wliose riggings were manned M i%#:^ «'';•»->.;.. -"%.. 7...', U3 '■§-m W^^'-^ -^rM ''M . ■ ■■'- - Tl-,.- - - - "^ *■ .Jt:f 5k» f I'l i; , vii ^l.i,i t^:t^^^ .i*B;: iilip'^ ■1 feljii rf^^:f '■■":^.-Jn- i^; ii, f ^'^l:^ ii^^-'¥F ,« ^r-- ..^ ... J* . . 1' •hi--' .-4 ■ I'M ■. f ':• 'i;,'! I'f .) .• !'■ 1 i ! ■ ■ I. ; I ■ ■<\\ ■>;■ J , , 1. ;'' ''.■:!>.. ■ t ' IV. i i ' I •• :: . -t '!'.)■'■ I ■: • i-^: II ■ ;. ■ . , ,-7 i: lU ; 11 1, 11 i; 1 1 ' i;l>- •! ■ 1 •' ' ' <• I •M ■..'' .tl' I: .. >ii. ■.: H-Mi,-. .:: Mr -MSiV III; ■■■ -1 t V • M. !•' ;>■■!' i \ •;:'■/!: •■ ;-|t ; .• :■• 1.: i ^ ■■; !. 1 :; (!!.- !'.)'i_ii •'■ ■<:■. :-. ;. -, ,. ■.'■.! \,.u ■;!■ i- ■. ! . J 1. • >r' ■■■:•,:"'■■..:(•.; V'.'- '•. ■^"■■•^ : .. ■■ • ■..■■' X:-: ■ • ■ - i l'.:'' '' il. ■!•;;. .» 'ill ■: 'u i' ■ 1 ' . ' 11-^ ».t . ■. ■;»!! • ■!■,■ -H .; !'\ h «.: '' '-"tfi* III'-- -V!-!- li...- X o o o S! K en n c K n ►j ri c vu The Farewell at New London. 43 and flags clipped. The Monticello, under the command of Capt. E. A. Chapel, of Hudson, N. Y., was a staunch whaler of 35G tons regis- ter, engaged in the whaling business from the date of her beiuL' launched, 1842 ; she carried four large boats, besides her spare-boats and Hall's Expedition whale-boat. She was accompanied by the Tender, Helen F., a craft of about 100 tons, carrying two boats. Those who bade Hall farewell at this hour of his second departure from home for the execution of his long-cherished purposes, when they left him on their return to the harbor, made this record, "He is full of hope, never desponding ; has firm trust in Him who doeth all things well, and is marked for his steady perseverance and integrity ; prompt, truthful, and of undoubted reliability, he readily makes friends by his whole-souledness, and those who meet him once are happy to renew the acquaintance." Hall's own feelings are tersely expressed in a letter written on board the Monticello, July 13, when nearing the port of St. John's. He wrote : I have now a work before me that might make some shudder to undertake. It is a great undertaking for one man, I will confess ; but, having once put myself in the course, I must and will persevere. I hope by the aid of neavcn to succeed, and at the end of three years I shall return to my friends, who may rejoice that they withheld not in the time of my great need. During the passage to this port I have felt little like work, for I may say it has been the first resting spell T have had for years. His correspondence was closed by the corrections of the last proof-sheets of his volume on the researches of 1 860-'62, the preface to which was dated on board the Monticello. His acknowledgments were again gratefully tendered to Messrs. Harper, who at the time when he had supposed li aself ready to return to the Noith, had 44 Donations Acknowledged. consented to the suspension of the work, although advance payments had been made* Under the advice of a firm friend, Mr. C. NordhoflP, then one of the editors of the New York Evening Post, Rev. O. H. Button had assisted in its completion. * A list of the douatiuim received in New York and New Loudon was also sent from tlio Monticello to tbo New York press, as follows : Donaiiong from A'ew York. — Peter Cooper, condensed provisions ; G. C. Baker, nautical in- struiucuts ; H. S. Kackot & Son, transportation of powder free to New London on board tlio schooner Dr. Franklin, 8. J. Geer, master; H. Dalley, pain extractors; R. Keith & Co., concen- trated medicines; Miles & Holnian, hominy, samp, split pease, farina, &c. ; Knox, hats; D. C. Morehead, M. D,, magnetic plasters; W. 8. Moldrum, sugar; G. F. Nesbit, binding journal and books for the Arctic Expedition; Reynolds, Pratt & Co., chamois skins, &c. ; T. F. Brett, seine, twine, &c. ; Letoumeur & Co., pure licjuors; Philip Dator & Co., groceries; Colgate & Co., soap; B. 8. Osbom, sundries; G. P. Philes & Co., "Coat's Geography of Hudson's Bay," a rare and valuable work ; Adams Express Company, kindness of John Hoey, who sent everything free from New York to New Loudon; Guiseppo Tagliabue, barometer aii,T ' ^"."r^^*^ ~ XT-f -I ?ltl I'l 64 Bear-Meat and Bear-Oil. [AogBm, i864. i I'l no sooner had he said it than Ninoo gave one more convulsive leap. He then fell lifeless. The number of shots fired is -not beyond what is usually found necessaiy. Hall, recalling the experiences of his first voyage, says he had sometimes thought that the bear exemplifies the old saying of the cat's nine lives, for ball after ball is often put through the head, and the bear drops down as often seemingly lifeless, yet in a few moments off again he trots. Polar No. 1 was found to be immenscxy loaded with fat, " covered with a complete blanket of it, five inches thick on the rump ; the en- trails entirely encased with fat." The paunch was empty. This Ebier- bing explained by saying, "When Ninoo get fat he no eat any more for two or three months ; " an empty paunch is, therefore, no sign that he is hungry. The skin, the fat, and the meat were saved. The whole of the inwards, except the fat covering, was thrown into the sea The Innuits never eat anything from the inside of the bear. Steaks of juicy, red meat were welcomed by the crew, and Hall says better beef could not be had in the States. These last remarks accord with what Scoresby, in his Account of the Arctic Regions, says, viz, that he once treated his surgeon to a dinner of bear's ham, and he knew not for a month afterward but that it was beefsteak. The liver is hurtful, while the liver and flesh of the seal, on which the bear chiefly feeds, are nourishing and palatable. Sailors who have inadvertently eaten the liver of the bear have sickened ; some have actually died. These ill effects have not, however, been always the experience of Arctic sailors. The amount of oil obtained from the two bears was over seventy gallons ; all the blubber was cut up to make it. Usually the Eskimo women do this part of the work, but Too-koo-li-too had never practiced i:i m ■ ' ,■■■ T'u-'r':''.''^ ■''■'' ',,.T ■ ' V™™'^ ■ I iH 1' » 95° ii 1 1" f r 90° ^b' 80° 89*30 -- miruir imn i C JJa^ecuhar Gap V*^^ was first strua I Oap ofMysuwy^^ 89^00 / SqiTTHAlnx-'V N „„A oT* SealiorBeP^ CPemhti y'^""^%f^. Soulhaunpton- .■ 'Au//. 24 Tnn:!/ --OiSJBl'iii Sm|it.l:il« first strut Gap ofM\see^:'i 89''o"o BO-OO- X[ "^•Ji 15Z>Mf-A^SB>i,^0 / C ap e Monta-gaj,!^ C'iJAh-'''''J^^O^-^ 26ZwcfJp.neS V 4>Jo* ThtSoats \(re le.i aaloo ^ v. T ailjx ire i«iT! Ticr-e ■** IM ST. JOHNS, N?B"OUNDLAND TO WHALE POINT. I8B4. IdyAGE from RE^SE bay TO ST. JOHNS 1860. 1 .( I i i )l j 1 i a ^S Angaal, 18«4.] CoUTSe of t1l€ Skip. 55 it. The oil was sweet and pellucid. By the light from some of it, Hall wrote his next journal entries. In the paunch of the second bear about six gallons of seal-oil had been found. From the entrance of the straits the course of the Monticello had been run between 60° 59' N. and 63° 47' N. The last-named latitude, made August 10, was found to be considerably north of where the ship's dead-reckoning placed her ; she had been swept out by the current. From the 7th to the 20th the log gives the longitude reckonings, G9°, 70° 40', 72° 33', 75° 08', 84° 27', 85° 30', 88° 40', 90° 20', 89° 40' ; on the 20th, 89° 56' W. Compass variation, 41° W. On the 12th, under favor of a south-southeast wind and a strong current, the ship had made the most rapid advance of any part of her course ; Nottingham and Salisbury Islands, which had been on her starboard all day, being suddenly swept by and left far in the distance. It was now learned that the passage of the straits had been much more successfully accomplished by one of the ships of the Hudson's Bay Company, the Prince of Wales, which, according to her log, had made it in less than six days. Eight days after, the Monticello, having complete-^ her run across the bay, anchored at Depot Island, in lat. 63° 47' N., long. 89° 51' W. The Eskimo name of this island is Pik-e-u-lar ; its English name had been given to it by Captain E. A. Chapel on a former voyage. Hall was much disappointed that the vessel did not proceed directly to Marble Island, her original destination. He had hopes of doing some good work there by carefully determining the geograph- ical position of the island, and had a second object in view. Remem- bering the fate of the expedition under I^night and Barlow, sent out 66 Expedition of Knight and Barlow. [AuRnat, 1S64. !l^ in 1719, some of the wrecks of whose vessels were found fifty yeai's afterwards upon this island, he wished to explore it for relics of that expedition* which might yet possibly be found. In Hearne's Travels he had seen the statement that the remains of the houses built by this party, as also the hulls of the ship and sloop were visible for many years below the waters. He was at first landed with Ebierbing and To-koo-li-too on Depot Island. Mate Chester, who accompanied them, estimated the whole weight of his boat and outfit at only 1,400 pounds. The boat, built by Rodgers of New London, was but 28 feet in length, with 5 feet 10 inches beam, and 26 inches depth. The mate and crew returned on board the Monticello, and when, soon afterward, she left the harbor on her first cruise for whales, the party on the island began their five years' Arctic residence. A tent was erected on the western side, and some observations were made for determining the position and for marking out the adjacent coast line. On the 22d, the first game secured, footed up for the day nine petularks and one goose. During the week which followed, several vessels, and among them the Tender, Helen F., were sighted, apparently working their way up to Rowe's Welcome ; and although the fog at one time hid them from view. Hall was only the more delighted to find on the 23d the brig * Sickness aiul famine occasioned such havoc among the English that by the setting in of the second winter their number was reduced to twenty ; and on the Eslcinios visiting Marble Island again, in the summer of 1721, they found five of the English only alive, and those in such distress for provisions that they eagerly eat the seal's flesh and whale's blubber qnitc raw as they purchased it from the natives. This disordered them so much that three of them died in a few days; and the other two, though very weak, made a shift to bury them. These two survived many days after the rest, and frequently went to tlio top of an adjacent rock and earnestly looked to the south and east as if in expectation of some vessels comiug to their relief. After continuing there a considerable time, and nothing appearing in sight, they sat down close together and wept bitterly. At length one of the two died, and the other's strength was so far exhausted that he fell down and died also ivhile attempting to dig a grave for his companion. — (Journey from Prince of Wales' Fort, in Hudson's Bay, to the Northern Ocean, 1767-1772, by Samuel Ilearnc. lutrod., p. xxxi.) Aacaat, 1864. A White Man Hired. 67 Isabel and the bark Concordia, and on the 25th the Helen F., snugly anchored west of the island. The captains of these vessels went ashore and expressed their kindly interest in Hall's purposes, offering- him also comfortable accommodations on their ships if he should com- plete his work before the expiration of their cruises. Capt. H. Y. Chapel, of the Tender, spent much of the day on Hall's "flag-staff hill," from which he had sighted the ships while making his observations. He now secured his first assistant. Chax'les Rudolph, a German, one of the crew of the Isabel, having learned Hall's wish to employ a white man as a companion on the expedition, volunteered to go with him and went ashore for an interview, bearing high recommenda- tions from his officers. He had spent one previous winter among the Innuits. He was very closely questioned in regard to what he knew of Innuit life and what trials he supposed he would have if he went on this intended journey of from two and a half to three years, and his replies were so satisfactory that, taking them in connection with the recommendation of his officers (Mr. Gardner, the second mate, being an old acquaintance), Hall had no hesitation in accepting the proposal. The experience of his First Expedition had taught him that "the man from the land of civilization who should accompany him, must be one whom he well knew, and one that would face disappointments, depriva- tions of food without a murmur, endure with stout heart storms, cold, and hard labor without flinching, and be truthfully obedient and trust- worthy every way." Before setting out, he had refused many appli- cations from persons in the United States and Canada, under the feel- ing that unless he knew them intimately he might regret having taken a companion when it would be too late for a remedy. It may be remarked in passing that the letters containing such applications found 68 Wlialers at the Island. lAagnut, 1864. \m U i .1 m^ among Hall's papers and dating within the years 1860-62, as well as the future history of other like cases, justify the precaution he took. Before taking Rudolph into his service he told him, in Mr. Gardner's presence, the very darkest and hardest side of the story as to the life he must lead if he went to King William's Land, asking him also if he were aware that perhaps they would starve, or be killed by the Innuits. But Rudolj)!! answered th.at he could endure what any one else could, and could stand it as well as Hall ; and if they should find no chance of escape, a man would have to die but once, and, therefore, he was not afraid to go. A contract was then made for the term of three years, at a compensation of $25 per month, with the promise of a much larger sum if the objects of the expedition should be secured; and to complete the papers properly required in the case. Captain Parsons of the Isabel, received from Hall a copy of the contract, to be shown, if necessary, at the custom-house in New London on the retui-n of the brig. ,1 On the 26th, Mr. Gardner recorded for Hall his observations for the day, which included some lunar distances. On the 27th, no fewer than eight whalers, the Cornelia, George and Mary, Concordia, Morning Star, Isabel (bx'ig), and Isabel (schooner), with the Monticello, and her Tender, were all at anchor. The officers and men of these vessels very kindly added some useful things to Hall's small outfit, and promised their assistance whenever it should be in their power. The Morning Star, leaving her anchorage for Cyrus W. Field's Bay, received a copy of Hall's chart of Frobisher Bay. The next day the crews of the Monticello and Helen F. were engaged in towing the former vessel to the place selected for her winter quarters. : ii:i Angaat, 1864.) Ilall Landed at Whale Point. no At 11.30 a. m. of the 2{)tli the anchor of the ^J^onder waw catted, and Capt. li. Y. Chapel sailed with Ilall, his two Eskimos, and his new em})loye, Rudolph, under instructions from the captain of the Mt>nti- cello, to convey them to Wager River. From this point they were to proceed in the boat to Repulse Bay, where Ilall expected to winter and prepare for his sledge journey to King William's Land in the si)ring. Three of the whalers accompanied the Helen F. out of tiio harbor, one of which, the Isabel, bound homeward, took letters to the United States, including some from Too-koo-li-too to Miss Sylvia Grinnell,(now Mrs. Captain Buxton, R. N.), and to Mrs. Budington. The Tender left her anchorage with a light breeze from the north- east; but the wind soon veering to the south and freshening, she made from four to six knots per hour toward Cape Fullerton. While cross- ing an inlet which Hall named after Captain Chapel, he wrote his first Arctic letter to Mr. Grinnell, dating it August 29, lat. 63° 47 N., long. 89° 58' W. On the 30th, he left the vessel in Mr. Chester's boat and landed at Whale Point, returning to the schooner at about 4.30 p. m. The next day they had the first sight of whales. The captain of the Tender now informed Hall that he had reached Wager River, and would, therefore, land him in order that the schooner might return to Marble Island to make her winter quarters. Both Hall and Chester dissented from the captain's judgment that he had reached the river. The first officer, however, insisted that they were opposite its southern entrance. Early in the morning of the 3 1 st, therefore, Chester again took charge of the Sylvia, with her Arctic outfit, and landed Hall with his party at a point which seemed to be, in Chester's judg- ment, 35 miles, but was afterward determined by Hall from a meridian 60 An Unfortunate Mistake. [■cplembcr, 186'!. 'Mi altitiido to bo 40 miles, south of tlio point wliich Captnin Chapol Hup- j)08e(l ho had readied. Mate Newman, with Ji boat'w cnnv from tho Tender, assisted in convoying the stores on shore. Hall gives tho position of this iirst landing place as lat. G4° 35' N., long. 87° 33' W., ** Encampment No. 1." This mistake of tho land was a grievous disappointment. The remaining distance was clearly within the instructions received from the captain of the Monticello, and it could have been readily and safely made. It Avas more than a disappointment to Hall, for it j)roved to be the loss of a ivliole year to the expedition. Had the landing been secured at the point proposed on Wager River, he might have gone directly to Repulse Bay, securing there his winter quarters, and preparing, as he expected, for his spring journey. It will be seen that he was com- pelled to pass his first winter near this first landing, and that it required the larger part of the opening season to push on his boat and stores to Repulse Bay. Whatever, however, may have been the error, and how- ever sore the disappointment, no complaints are found in his journal. The crews using both sail and oars found a fair harbor a little before meridian, but landed with difficulty because of the falling tide. Ilall and Rudolph were in the water waist deep to haul the Sylvia ashore. l\ A single white man in a desolate region, and at the beginning of an Arctic winter, but a man of a brave heart and of Arctic experience ! The whole of the first day after landing he occupied in making a cache and depositing stores, in order to reduce the weight of the Sylvia's cargo. Such articles as were not needed for immediate use were carefully packed in three deposits under a ponderous pile of HrpU'Mikpr, 1864.1 CoastitHf Along the Welcome. (>! rocks. Tlio chiet' objects thus cared for, besides his books and the other personal effects of the l)arty, were the cans of peniniican and of desiccated vegetables, sugar, coffee, tea, and tobacco, a small sup- ply of spirits, powder, shot, and percussion caps. Several groups of deer were seen during the day, and Ebierbing killed five of their num- ber, bringing to the encampment, with Rudolph's help, the skins of three with part of the meat, and leaving the remainder in a cache three miles off. The party had thus fresh meat almost immediately on landing. On the 3d, Hall resumed his voyage to Repulse Bay by coasting along to the northward. Having made about five miles, ho found himself completely headed by land which shot directly athwart his course, though ho had supposed he should find a channel. It was simply a bay filled with numerous islands. The tide was running furiously before he got out of it, and it was only by skillful manage- ment that the Sylvia was free fr.om the eddies, currents, and oveifalls that abounded there, and was again in smooth water. In writing of this to Captain Chapel, he said : How shallow tbo Welcome! Over much of the distance iiiadc from the place of my lirst encampment to second, in hit. 04° 50' 30" — 15 miles— K)ur Sylvia, drawing only 18 inches, often touched bottom a half mile to two miles from the coast. The land on the west side of the Welcome, at no point between the two encampments named, can exceed 30 to 40 feet in height. I have no hesitation in saying that the American whalers who have so successfully been navigating in Hudson's Bay, especially in that part of it called Sir Thomas Rowe's Welcome, since you and your brother Christopher first opened up the whale-fishery in said bay, in 1800, must be as good navigators as the wor'-' nows of. This is said with the full knowledge that little or no dependence cm ^e placed on any com- passes on board of your ships. Although my azimuth compasses are of the most delicate construction, they are virtually of no use except to show how perfectly fickle and unreliable compasses are in this portion of the North. 1^ It 62 First Mci'thiff ivith Innnit.s IMrplrmbrr, IN({4. I ■u I!!, 11^ I l<]skiiiio .Too now sighted witli tlio teloscopo a plnco oii the liuid wIhm'O the limuits* had had a hito oncaiupinoiit, the marks bcinp sovoral ti'nt-i>oli>s staiid- iiiji' (>iT('t. A I'lnv iniiiiitoK lator he si}jht(>d a boat whidi was turned over and lyiufi' above hijjh water on tlie hind ahead. I'Voni this wo concluded tliat tlio natives could not be far oil", and toward this boat the Sylvia was now directed. When within one mile of it we were delighted at the sight of a native near this boat ; and yet the joy was mingled with something that was akin to fear, for he appeared advancing cautiously toward us with gun in hand, and at the. same time, as ,loe thought, loading it. However, I caused my small crew' of three to ])tdl aheai/-<-/«'.v jt>y on hearing from i/ou seemed e(|Ual to mine on meeting him. Ho told us that his ttipik, skin tent, and those of several others of his peoi)le, were just over a i)oint of land from wlu^re we then were, and that if we wouhl stoj) and make our encampment there, he and his peoi)le wouhl the next day move over beside us and then we all would have a long talk. • Tlio iippollations Intiititu ami I'^skimoii will 1h> nsnd in tliis Niirrativo synonynionsly, as Hall usi's tluMii. It in:iy lie as well, liowcvoi'. to };ivo llio i)rol)al>lc orijiin of tlic iiunios ami their Icjjit- iinatc a)i])1i('atioii. The word Ki«|iiiiiiaux — bettor written Eskimo — is derived from a root indi- eatin;;, in the laiifjiiajie of the Northern trilies, a soreerer. The Innnit name h'ag-iinkirnic means the honse where (he d/KriiidHx. soreerers, eondnet their dnnees and incantations. The word Innnit mean' pcopli', and is in nse from (Jreenland to Bering Strait. II shonid take the place of Ks- kimos. the etymolo>;y of which is not clear. Mr. \V. \. Dall, in a ])apcr read before the American Association in MliO, and in a number of "The C'(nitribnti(nis to Nrising all the so-calliMl Kskimo and Tuskis, and the Aleuts. " Neplember, 1804. J Hall Encamps at Noo-ivook. 63 To this proposition lljill readily {iccedod, juid niudo with this chief' r.nd his people fit Noo-wook his second encampment, the jjosition of which has heen already given. It is to he remarked, however, that this ])OHition and the succeeding- ones which may be named are approx- imate only. His astronomical observations, reduced from his rough notes under the superintendence of Mr. R. W. D. Bryan, will be found in Appendix I. The tribe was one whose usual residence was at the head of Re- pulse Bay. They had often held intercourse there and at Depot Island with the American whalers ; had their l*]nglish names from them, and had in their possession the boats and hunting implements of civilized life. Hall and his two Eskimos were soon at home among them, Ebier- bing and Too-koo-li-too acting from the first as his intei*preters, and finding but little difficulty in this, as the difference between the new dialect and that of the Cumberland Gulf i)eoplo was readily over- come. Hall's first notes speak of Oudd's people as one would speak of old acquaintances. On the 7th [ho says], first came into my tnpik Artooa^ Frank, with his wife and family, witli their dogs and their panniers; in tlie evening, Oucla th(! (^hief, and Armou, Armoii slept with me, and all the natives shared my breakfast Frank made me a present of six leindeertongnes and some salmon. Going off in the morning on a hunt with Artooa, Nu-licr-zhoo, and Rudolph, Hall met with both white and black Tulc-too — reindeer — and Ebierbing again succeeded in killing two. Returning in the evening he joined heartily with his Eskimo brothers in their first Ankootiug service, a superstitious ceremony more than once to be noted in these pages, and which occasioned many of Hall's subsequent troubles. His 1 ^ . 1 » 1 .1 |i 1 1 !i 1 1 1 ; '. f 1 > I !( ■ li j 1 ■i ; t i I ; I ! 64 First Talk about Franklin. [8<-plcnib«r, 1864. first inconvenience was the An-ge-kd's decree, this day, that no iron should be filed by either kob-lu-nas or Innuits till the ice formed, Armou the next morning, on taking leave, received presents of amnuinition, tobacco, and deer-skin mittens ; and before the party sep- arated on this day Hall had begun his inquiries as to what these na- tives might have heard of Franklin's men and what they knew of the geography of the country further north. He says : I was not iong in arriving at the subject whitih led me North. When I told these natives where I wanted to go, to wit, to I-wil lik (Repulse Bay), and thenco to Uoothia, Felix Peninsula (which they call Neitchil-le), to find out all about some Jcob-ln-nas, whites, that went there many years ago, they at once told ni« that there iccre two ships lost near Neitchil-le many years ago, and that a great many loh-lu-nas, whites, died — some starved and some were frozen to death — but that there were four that did not die! How astounded I was as Too-koo-li-too (the best interpreter of Innuit language into our vernacular that ever accompanied an Arctic expedition) told me this ! Little did I expect so soon to find natives that seemed to know a volume of interesting and important facts bearing on the Franklin Expedition. I had before us a large English Admiralty chart of the Arctic Kegious from the meridian of Smith's Sound westward to that of Macken- zie Kiver. They at once pointed out where Eepulse Bay was, which they called 1-wil-lik, and thence followed the track of Dr. Itae, whom they saw in 1847 and 1854. They showed the locality of where the two ships were lost, and where Neit- chil-le is. They pointed out the bay where they themselves were when they heard about the two ships being fast in the ice, and how the Ivb-lu-nas left them, and finally nearly all starved or froze to death. This bay Dr. Hae luimed Pelly Bay. These natives all told me that I ought not to think of wintering at I-wil-lik (Re- l)ulse Bay) ; that 1 was too late for killing any tool-too there, and that no seals or walrus could be killed there wi winter. Besides all these objections to my win- tering at Repulse Bay, all the natives stated that I could not pass the entrance to Wager Bay and thence to Repulse Bay at this late season of the year with my heavily laden boat without gi"eat risk of losing the boat and our lives. Indeed, I could not induce any one of the natives to go with me on account of the reasons now stated. Besides, they said I would not find any Innuits at Repulse Bay, for they uniformly left that part of the country in the iall of the year to spend the win- ter wlu'ie they could kill seals and walrus. They stated that it was their own pur- (k-plembcr, 1804.1 Lonely Feelings. 65 pose to go to Kepulse Bay next season, starting early in the spring, and then to ])roceed thence to Neitchille, just where I wanted to go; and proposed that if 1 would spend the winter here at Noo-wook with them, they woiUd furnish nie and my small company with all the took-too, walrus, seal, bear, and uuisk-ox meat we wanted ; and, furthermore, they would give us plenty of reindeer furs for our win- ter dresses and bedding, besides helping mo in doing anything I desu-ed. Where else in the world could a more free-hearted, generous people be found ? After spending several days with them and conversing seriously on the whole subject. Hall decided, and indeed of necessity, to remain at Noo-wook for the winter. He communicated the information quoted above to Captain Kilmer, of the Ansel Gibbs; that this lirst news might be safely conveyed to Mr Grinnell, if he himself should never return home. On the two following days whales were seen close to shore, their backs being above water for nearly a half hour. On the 10th, Hall sent his two Eskimos with Rudolph and some of the natives to his last encampment to bring away his stores. While awaiting their return the feelings awakened by his now isolated situation were thus recorded in his note-book : '* I have felt lonely all day, although within a stone's throw are three tupiks filled with these kind-hearted children of the No"*li. They have been very kind, some going to the lakelet for water, some getting the dwarf shrub used in these regions for fuel, and some preparing my food." The experience of his former Expedition having early taught him the helplessness of these poor beings when suffering with sickness or bodily injuries, he was not unprepared to render assistance, and he had early calls upon him from Ar-too-a and Ou-e-la. The case of one of his patients is illustrative. Ook-har-loo, an old woman, suf- fering with inflamed eyes, was constantly rubbing them with her S. Ex. 21 5" 66 Dr. Kae's Oii-lig-huck. (Mcpleiubcr, I NO I. i ! I 11 '! I I uncleanly iists. Ilavinj;^ first sponged off with soap and water "the thick coat of primitive soil " which covered Oolc-bar-loo's whole face, and then i)resented her with a piece of cotton cloth for her owi; xiso in cleansing her eyes, he received her ])rofound thanks for this appli- cation of nature's remedy, with the declaration that he was the best of An-gc-kos. This woman remembered that when very young she had staid aboard Parry's ship, and showed tattooing done upon one of her legs at that time by (7rozier's men. The acquaintance made with the Eskimos was now daily im- proved by inquiries in regard to the expeditions of Parry, Ross, Rae, and Franklin, in order that, by comparing with the official narratives of those officers what could now be heard from these people, Hall could learn what confidence to place in their accounts of Franklin. He was much encouraged by the seeming correctness of their replies. Among these, Ar-too-a, whose age was about thirty, gave him a long account of the very serious wounds received by Ou-Ug-buck, one of Dr. Rae's interpreters. Ar-too-a! s story, as found in Hall's journal of the day, corresponds closely with the record given by Rae himself of the acci- dental wound and the healing of Ou-lig-hyck to be found on pages 95 and 9G of the Narrative of Rae's Expedition to the Arctic Seas in 184b'-'47. Ar-too-a further said that he and his brothers Ou-e-Ia and Shu-she-ark-nook had seen Rao on each of his expeditions of 184G and 1854, and that "although Ou-lig-huck, fjither and son, and most of the white men smoked, Dr. Rae never did." They all knew Rae's *' merry Ivitchuk." Hall was much gratified on receiving such details of incidents which occurred nearly eighteen years previous. The 15th was a day of gale from the north. The Welcome Avas lashed into a fury, and the cold winds drove far inland everything i i iit Mrplembcr, INH4. Chanplrmb«r, 1^04. U l\ m : ill! 11 I'. r i |M1 Hall's journal closes the month of September with an imagina- tive comparison between the early snow-storms and Arctic aurora : While out on a walk amid the snow-storm this \). m., 1 was struck with the similitude, in some respects, of the appearance of the snow, as it was swept aloiijjf by the winds over the glassy surface of the new-nmde ice of the lakelets, to that of the aurora in these regions when in its full play. I refer to certain peciuliar movements of the one corresponding to the other. If I wished a friend at home to get a fair idea of the movements of the aurora here in its general exhibitions, I shoxdd say go out during the Urst severe snow-storm and get within sight of some smooth ice covering some river, pond, or lake, and watch the snow as it is driven along. Now and then puff's of wind come sweeping along, so to si)eak, rays or beams of snow that seem to play fantastically. Innumerable numbers of these go to make up a most interesting scene. While the aurora, in rays or beams, shoots up vertically, and is of golden hue, and often of prisniatic colors, the snow is swept along horizontally, and is white, the same as the aurora in the sunlight. — White. On the 5th of October, Joe brought to Hall some muk-tuk, the black skin of the whale, which was much relished ; but Hall was still suffering from boils on his eyelids. His whole party were sick, and were confined to their tents for several days by a storm. On their recovery, Ebierbing, assisted by Ou-e-la and Armou built for him a large igloo near those which the Innuits had already erected for them- selves. Hall's was built with much care, although it cost but two hours' labor; he found it quite strong and commodious. Its diam- eter was 10 feet. The construction of one of these snow-houses, built by the Innuits of this region, is described by him substantially as follows : After making trial of several banks of snow, by plunging in their long knives, on finding the proper compactness, they cut blocks 2 to 2^ feet in length and about 18 inches in thickness. One set is cut from the spot on which the igloo is to be built, its floor being thus Oc««b«r, 1864. Iglon-Buildinp. 73 sunken 18 inches below tlie general surface. In placing the blocks around this excavation, of about 10 feet diameter, the first tier is made up of those which, by increasing regularly in width, form a SNOW-KNIFE MADE OF BONE; DEPOSITED BY HALL IN THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITITION. spiral from right to left. They are laid from within, each being secured by a bevel on the one last laid and another bevel on the next one below. The joints are well broken. The blocks incline inwardly, thus regularly diminishing the diameter of the igloo and fitting it for the dome or keystone. Thirty-eight blocks were here used. For ventilation, a small hole is usually made by the spear. The crevices are well filled with snow within and without, making it nearly an air-tight structure. For a window, a small opening cut in the dome is filled in usually with a block of clear ice ; in some cases with the scraped inner linings of the seal ; this last makes a light on which the frost does not settle as upon the ice-blocks. The passage-way to the igloo is always long and points toward the south. The Repulse Bay natives shovel up much more snow upon the hut than the Green- landers do. The igloo lamp is sometimes nothing more than a flat stone, about 6 inches in length, placed in a niche cut out of the wall, and having on it a little dry moss for a wick, which is supplied with oil by a slice of blubber from the bear or the seal. A stone lamp of better form, although poor enpugh, will give something of a fair light and warmth. !f^ I if li ! 74 JlalFs Igloo. |«N)Mb«r, INtt't. Tlio comforts within sucli buildings are of necessity very limited. It is a matter of Hurprise that durin«f the very many tedious Arctic IIAM.'S 101.00 AT NOO-WOOK. GllOUND PLAN OF TIIK IGLOO. hours spent within them by Hall he could bear with fortitude their worst evils ; and could, at the same time, write his notes with such ! I i .'ill HI. (k-telM-r, IfsMI. Whdtr Quurfrrs. 75 3(1. tic fiillneHS, study and correct typographical errors iu his liowditch, and work up his ohsorvations. IIo often "wondered at the simplicity to which the necessities of life may ho reduced. J lis house was a INNL'IT I.AMI'. (Dt'poHiteil by lljill in tho Sinitlisoniun Iimtitiitioii ; tlin i'liictiiro iiieiidt'd by tb" iiativcH, with sinew. DiniunHionH: Lcn^tb, 20 incbuu; dcptli, llj iuchcH to Imnn of llanjut-; liiin>;<', i.'jt iuchcH tliiitlv, '2 incLi!8 high.) building without a corner, without props or braces; the wall, roof, and door a unity, yet so strong as to defy the power of tho fiercest Arctic gales." Hall was now fairly established in his winter quarters. His instruments for making his observations were as yet unhurt. He had no apprehensions as to a want of provision. The Sylvia and other boats were safely housed. And it may not be a matter too trivial in this case to be noticed that P^bierbing, by the use of scissors, })lied the vocation of barber to Hall's beard, over which a razor had not passed for six years. "Its length had been a special protection in the sunnner months against those tremendous blood-suckers called in the English tongue mosquitoes, which abound in swarms here." I'his last state- ment may be remembered in contrast with the experience of Parry's men in the higher latitude of Winter Harbor in June. Parry says : "The mosquito," Culex pipiens, "was never of the least annoyance to us, as is the case on the shores of Hudson's Bay and other cold countries." 76 Letter to Chapel. [October, 1864. (.ill; Some weeks after this, Hall wrote to his friend, the captain of the Monticello, at Depot Island : I excbaugod tent for snow-hoiisc, and have now been in the igloo sixty days, and all the time as comfortable as I ever was in winter in my life. Yon A»'onld l)o quite interested in taking a walk through my winter quarters; one main igloo for myself and Eskimo children (Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too), and three igloos, all Joined to the main, for store-houses. A low, croolced passage-way of some .W feet in length, made of snow, leads into our residence, which, as you will know from the word igloo, means a snow-house ; its shape is hemispherical. 1 never before knew any Eskimos so provident as this tribe or clan I am wintering with. I doubt not they have four hundred or more of reindeer, killed last summer, on deposit within the distance of a circle of 20 miles in diameter. We are now living on polar-bear and walrus meat. Five polar bears, some musk-oxen, a great many partridges, and four walruses have been killed since arriving among the natives, besides a large number of reindeer. f \ n^l :, ■i 1: i ;' ■ III ::1i .«*«!.•»« .iiiw^*. F HAPTER w- INTERCOUUSE WITH THK INNUirS-THEIR KKASTS AND HUNTS. OCTOBER TO DECEMBJiR 31, 18G4. m II f 'II liii ; ■If •;■ :>' li: ■ !' i I I j C ri A P T E R 1 V . Hall's ministrations to the sufferinc — Their gratitude— Feasts described — EBiERnixtj ANKOOTED— An AURORA — MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY ERECTED — SlEDGE JOURNEY DOWN THE Welcome— Musk-ox hunt — A fox caught in his own trap— Customs in making REINDEER I>KPOSITS — A BEAR SLAIN — PREPARATION OF SKINS — HaLL'S SEAL HUNT — PLAY- ING THE KEY-LOW-TIK — REMOVAL TO TOE WALIiUS-GROlTNDS— OU-E-LA'S InNUIT STORIES — Visit iiv the natives to the whale-ships at Depot Island— Alleged reasons for ADVICE given by THE INNUITS TO DR. RaE IN 1854 — DISCOVERY THAT A DAY HAD BEEN LOST IN THE RECKONING— I'RESENTS RECEIVED FROM THE WHALERS— SUCCESSFUL WALRUS HUNT. A gale from the northwest, which had prevailed for three days, was followed on the 8th by a day with scarcely a cloud in the sky. The temperature was quite low ; the thermometer inside the tent had read 10°. Hall with difficulty wrote out his notes, and began to fear he might lose his ink. Digging out from a wide snow-drift a box which contained two standard thermometers, he was glad to find them nnbroken. They showed a temperature of 20°, the air outside the drift being 10°. Although still suffering much from an abscess close to the ball of his right eye, and fearing that the left eye was also endangered, he had occasion to renew his visits of assistance to the natives, to supply 79 80 Relief Given to the Sid;. [October, IS04. u ' r! I '1 I : i i their necessities both of food and medicine. He found them entirely out of provision. Coming quickly at his call, they made a meal with him on a quarter of a pound of pemmican each, and took back a supply for the breakfast of the women and children. Shc-nook-shoo, Ook-har-Ioo's son, was quite sick in his snow-house. His fever was arrested, and he was restored, partly by medicines and partly by nutritious food, the supply of which was controlled. The cooking, Ook-har-loo I'efused to have done in a kob-lu-na's igloo. The poor people were not lacking in a free showing of thankful- ness by words and acts. They had abundance of deer-meat within a radius of 25 miles; probably three hundred reindeer scattered over the country in the different deposits which in their late hunting season they had made, and which they now frequented to bring in these supplies. Intercourse between them and Hall became still more familiar. He often dined out ; and as often invited them to pemmican and coffee. A cordial invitation and a full feast are thus described : Return- ing from a walk to his third encampment, when coming near the igloos, a band of boys and girls came running to meet him, crying out, "/fi-efc, kal-la, ea-tu, ea-tu; took-too tood-noo, am-a-suit!^^ "Come quick, for reindeer-meat and tallow are jdenty." Following the youth- ful company to the igloos, he found a heavy load of deer skins and meat just brought in on a sledge from one of the deposits. A whole deer was part of the load. All the women of the village were present, as this was to be an unusual feast. The meat was placed in one of two igloos which were connected by a passage 10 feet in length, and of sufficient height for a man to stand up in it erect. In one igloo were the women ; in the other, the whole reindeer was on the table-cloth — I] I ;i ^ iif> A m Oclobrr. 1864. An Innuit Feast. 81 n- le le i- d e t, )f )f a took-too skin — before which stood Ou-e-la, naked from his waist n\), with hand-saw and hatchet to carve. Hall presented each of the men with a long knife, with his own name marked on the blade. He enjoyed the meat, which was good, as well as the reindeer-fat, which was 2 inches thick and abundant. On visiting the women's if/Joo, he found Mother Ooh-bar-ho with an old one-eyed lady and all the younger ones seated around a pile of meat, having a happy time ; three others, with their naked infants at their backs, sitting near, on the bed-])lace, Turk-fashion. At another dinner, which consisted of boiled deer-meat and soup made of the blood, Hall thought the cooking was l^etter than that from iron pans and pots ; and he says that the stronger the venison, even if putrid, the better he and the Innuits relished it. " It has a rich flavor, while fresh venison is almost tasteless." On the 14th, he dined at Nu-ker-zhoo's, "Jack's," on the usual fare of frozen deer-meat, having lunched on black-whale tail with relish. At supper his own invited guests feasted on a soup made by cooking pemmican, Borden meat, and biscuit in a liberal quantity of water. Hot coffee with raw frozen venison was found to be distasteful. "Thi two do not go well together, for after a drink of hot liquid the icy venison makes the teeth ache. The change is entirely too great. The Innuits take all their warm drink first; they have sound teeth." He now began to discuss his plans with them more fully in order to ascertain what assistance they would render him ; proposing to pro- ceed to Iwille, or IioiUik (Repulse Bay), with the whole company, and there make his headquarters, and thence move on by sledges to Neit- chille, Boothia Felix. He would there determine upon the best way of reaching King AVilliam's Land. The Innuits agreed to assist him, but S. Ex. 27 (5 82 The An-fje-lo Orders Hall to Burn His Clothes, lociobcr, iso-i. I! ! '4 ^ ■r t; f ; !;j advised that the whole company go well armed to Neitchille, as there existed a strong war-like feeling between the natives of that region and those of Iwillik. Hoping to remove every obstacle in the way of accomplishing the object of his expedition, he accepted their advice and snbjected himself to the unreasonable demands of the customs, prejudices, and even of the superstitions of the natives. As an instance of the last of these, he now submitted to the loss of even his most valuable garments, since an an-fje-ko (conjurer or medicine man) required them to be burned after he had professedly cured Ebierbing from sickness, llnll consented to believe that Ebierbing seemed much better after the operation, but was unprepared for the an-ge-Ms decree, that his own reindeer-skins, and those of his two Eskimo companions, should be destroyed. The favor of the Innuits was, however, thus kept up; they had already given him many skins, and he felt sure they would give morOj if needed. He began to hope that these people, about forty in number, were becoming bound to him by strong ties, and would co-operate with him on his journey. He thought them the best of the Eskimos with whom he had met ; and, willing to adapt himself to their habits in every respect, he discarded his outer clothing at this early stage of the season, and dressed himself in a full Innuit suit. The varying temperature of this part of the month kept the whole party watchful of the state of their snow-houses, which were further endangered by their heated atmosphere, when crowded by visitors day and night. On the 15th the thermometer read 34° all day inside, and 27°, 80°, and 28° outside. The domes of all the igloos of the village were riddled with holes and threatened to cave in. Hall's had one prop to keep up the dome during the day, and at night he added two PI ii October, 1H64.! An Aurora. S3 Ho more, and watched his chronometers close at his side, that lie might shelter them if the roof should fall. Awaking next morning he found a dozen large windows which had been made by the melting snow. The ])remises were then vacated, and his friends took down the old walls and rebuilt him a house, handling the snow-blocks with great care, as they lacked their usual compactness. Again anxiously watch- ing the thermometer, at 8 p. m. he found it read 31°, the wind being from the southeast with snow, which, if it changed to rain, would bring down every igloo in the village; but, at 1 a. m. of the Kith, the wind shifting to the northeast brought the thermometer down to 0°. The weather cleared up. An aurora, seen on the night of the 18th, is thus described in the journals : At 10 p. ni. I went out, and the aurora was spanning the azure vault. A smart breeze from the north was Wowing nearly the whole night. This seemed to add to the briskness of the merry dancers as they crossed the heavens to anil fro. An hour before, the sky was clear, not a cloud or an aurora ray to be seen; now, a belt extended across the heavens, arch-like, some 25° above tlie horizon, its direction being from southeast to northwest. I watched the rising arch. Every few moments gave varied and magnificent changes. At length pat<;hes of aurora burst forth here Jiud there. Gradually the main arch reached the zenith, and then was the grand jiart of the scene. Much of what was before in perpendicular rays shot athwart and across the heavens swiftly like a river of molten gold, here and there forming vast whirlpools, here and there an eddy, here and there a cataract of stupendous fall. When above my head, it seemed less than a ])istol-shot dis- tant. Indeed, it was near by. When I moved quickly, running up to the fop of the hill by the igloo, making a distance of less than 50 fathoms, the arch of the aurora, that seemed stationary while 1 was by the iyloo and in transitu, was now several degrees to the southicest of me. I returned as quickly to the ifiJoo, and the auroral belt was directly overhead. So small a base, with so palpable a change in the bearing of the auroia, ju'oved that it must have been quite close to the earth. A ball of fire fell during the display, and burst Just before it reached the earth, throwing out prismatic sciutiUations in every direction. 84 Noise from the Aurora (f). [Orlobrr, I NO I. -r i'i \l l> Hall found himself unable to decide whether any noise actually proceeded from the aurora. On questioning the Innuits as to whether they were accustomed to hear noises during its dis[)lay, they answered **Yes;"oneof them endeavoring to imitate the sound by a puffing noise from his mouth, which noise, Hall says, did remarkably accord with what he thought he had heard himself during the time of the most active displays.* Auroral action of equal interest occurred repeatedly during the month. On the 21st, Hall endeavored to erect a magnetic observatory. Armou cut out the snow-blocks and sledged them to the center of a fresh-water pond about fifty yards from the iyloo and covered with ice several feet in thickness. Hall assisted in the building, passing the blocks of snow, which on the back and on the north side of the building were placed in two tiers half way up, making a double wall to shield from * Lieutenant Hooper, K. N., second in eunuuiind of Lieutenant PuUen's Uoat-Expedition from Icy Cape to Mackenzie Hiver, spent the winter of 1849-50 near Fort Franklin, on ]{ear Lake. He wrote in his Journal ; " I have heard the aurora, not once, but many times ; not faintly and indistinctly, hut loudly iind unmistakably; now from this quarter, now from that, now from one point on high, and at another time from one low down. At first it seemed to resemble the sound of iield-ice, then it was like tlie sound of a water-mill, and, at last, like the whirring of a cauuon-shot heard from a Hlu)rt distance." But at a later date in his Arctic life Hooper says : " I fancied that I heard this aurora, but the noise was indubitably produced by the cracking of the ice on the lake." "There is no satisfactory evidence," says Professor Loomis, " that the aurora ever emits an aiuliblo sound. The sound 8up])osed to have been heard has been described as ix rustling, hiss- ing, crackling noise. But the most comp(^tent posed rustling is a mere illusion. It is, therefore, inferred that the sounds which have been ascribed to the aurora must have been due to other causes, such as the motion of the wind, or the crackling of the snow and ice in consequence of their low temperature. If the aurora emitted any audible sound, this soniul ought to follow the auroral movement after a considerable inter- val. Sound requires four nunutes to travel a disiatice of 50 miles. But the observers who report noises succeeding auroral movements make no mention of any interval. It is, therefore, inferred tli.it the sounds which have been heard during auroral exhibitions are to be ascril>ed to other causes than the aurora." (Treatise on Meteorology, p. IfiC.) Ilearno says that the Northern Indians call the aurora ed-thin, i. v., deer, from their hav- ing seen hairy deer-skin, when briskly stroked, emit electric sparks. The Son .icrn Indians believe it to be the spirits of departed friends dani'ing. When the aurora varies in color and form, they say their deeea.sed friemls are row/ mrrnj. f Oi'l«h'^^ ^K^ %. i JP ' % 100 A Move to the Walrus-Grounds. [Ncrember, 1864. ii hi 1, m •8i; 15 window of the igliw. He then commenced his talk with the spirits, cacconipanied by clapping of hands, jumping up and down, sideways and forwards, and then backing out from the igloo and returning. During all this an-koo-ting one and another of the audience kept repeating "words which seemed not unlike those of a penitent giving in his experience at a revival meeting." By the middle of this month the Innuits had finished their work on the reindeer-skins. Too-ko-li-too had labored for thirty days, fifteen hours out of the twenty-four, during which time, with but little assist- ance from Ebierbing even in cleaning the skins, she had made up, besides bedding, seven complete fur suits ; two for Hall, two for her husband, two for herself, and one for Rudolph. Preparation was now busily made for moving off to th ^ walrus-grounds, the first step toward which was to cover the sledge-runners with muck, a kind of peat obtained from a marsh after digging four feet through the snow and about a foot into the frozen ground. The muck is saturated with water, and a handful at a time placed on the runners at the very coldest hour, to ice them. Several families moved off on tbo 15th. Ebierbing, who went forward with them to assist in erecting igloos, saw flocks of ducks moving south. The first huts which were built were four connected ones having a common central place. In Hall's, Too-koo-li-too first covered the snow-bed place with boards, and put over these a quantity of dry shrubs and the reindeer- furs. Before Hall had left his old hut, on learning that the Innuit customs forbade the burning of shrubs in a new home, he had roasted enough coffee for a supply of two months. And before leaving the first igloo he had made the honest record in his journal, that on a visit from Ou-e-la ' "^JP^T'TSFTl^rTr'"^ Narembrr, t864.| Superstition. 101 and Ar-moii, they, with Ebierbing and himself, indulged with great freedom in the use of Hubbell's Golden Bitters, the indoreement on which is, "Good for dyspepsia." "Although the bitters were as thick as molasses, it was difficult to get it from the bottles quick enough to supply the demand." The next morning was one of headache and repentance to some ; yet the natives declared they had never been so happy as on the night before. Long before this, however, the}' had leanied from the whalers to drink, smoke, and sweai*. On entering their new igloos the Innuits renewed their perform- ances of the Tcey-low-tik and of an-koo-ting. In the latter of these perfornances the an-ge-ho (Ar-too-a) now made use of three walrus spears. One of these he thrust into the wall of the snow-house, and, after the usual accompaniments which have been already depcribed, ran with it outside of the igloo, where his ejaculations wore responded to by the party inside with the cries of ^^At-teef At-tee!^^ Returning with his spear to the door, he had a severe wrestling match with four of the men, who overcame him. But coming again into the central igloo, and having the lights which had been at the first patted down, relit, he showed the points of two spears apparently covered with fresh blood, which he held up in the pres- ence of all. Muttering something in a low tone at them, he gave a puff and then wiped them clean with the Innuits' universal dish-cloth — the tongue. The an-ge-ho then recommenced his incantations, address- ing for a minute or so, with his head erect, the Great Power above, and then, with head on the floor, the Spirit below. Kneeling on Too- koo-li-too's fur jacket in the center of the hut, he kept this up for a full half hour. After his exhibition had closed. Hall learned that the Spirits had revealed to the an-ge-ko that he and libierbing must exchange ^Ij 102 Hall An-koo-ted. INoTeinber, 1804. •f III ■.^- wives for the night* This, Hall effectually intervened to forbid. He records, also, the clear testimony of the wife of one of the Innuits in behalf of Too-koo-li-too herself that she had repelled the previously attempted efforts on the part of the other women to persuade her to accept the decree. In a time of sickness during the month Hall himself had been prevailed on to be an-kooted, and the an-ge-ko had told him that his sickness had been owing to his having eaten on his first expedition tood-noo prepared in a wrong way, and to the fact that he had left in his own country an enemy who had tried to do him harm. When he acknowledged that these two things were true, the Innuits were much pleased with the evidence of power in their an-ge-ko, and Hall con- sented to obey the decree given him, that he should never again wear certain garments which had been presented to him by some of his Innuit friends. During the last days of the month several walrus hunts were entered upon, the first sviccess in which was prevented by the poorness of the seal-skin lines which had been made to supply the loss of the stronger oiics missed some time before from their place of deposit. From unmistakable signs noticed when they had gone down the coast for these lines, the natives were satisfied that they had been stolen by some party from one of the whale-ships. Hall accompanied them on * Heanio says of tbo Indian tribes on the Sea of tlio North : "It is a very common custom in this country to cxelianjj;o a night's lotlRinR with each other's ■wives ; but this is so far from bciuj» considered criminal that it is esteemed one of the strongest ties of friendship between the two families ; in case of the death of either man the other considers himself bound to support th(i children of the deceased. This duty is never neglected, (Hearne, p. 125'.) Father Veniamfnoff, a Russian priest, who labored anu)ng the Aleutian tribes, is quoted by Mr. Dall as saying that formerly they practiced frequent secret orgies, and that "a gucxt shared aU marital righh with his host." These customs, however, as is avcU known, arc not exclusively those of the North Ameri- can triboa. ll i':, December, 1864.] Following up the Walrus. 103 their hunts, although he had been several times confined to his hjloo by a sore throat and by bruises received on his rough sledge-journeys. He endeavored to supply the loss of the walrus-lines by loaning the sheets of his boat Sylvia. A bear and a number of walruses were secured ; others which were only struck on the ice were lost during the nights, when they escaped by the tide setting the floe back to the land. But the condition of the ice was fine for hunting, and the promise for the season was good. Hall notices that on each morning, after the men had gone off to hunt, their women took each a cup down to tho shore and left it there ; probably under the idea that this would bring success. On the Cth of the month following, Ou-e-la and Ebierbing found a walrus of a large size butting his head through the ice, which was 4 inches thick, with a force sufficient to throw masses of it several feet into the air. On a signal to the other hunters they scattered themselves, watching for another appearance. The animal burst through the ice six times before he was hrxpooned Generally, when pursued, he moves in a direct line, and the natives are accustomed to calculate where he will jwobably make his second or third rise. The holes which he works up through the ice are sometimes as far apart as 100 rods, but the distances decrease in proportion to the lengtli of the pursuit, during which the animal is often drowned. Tho Innuits sometimes follow nearly the same plan in drowning ducks, though this is done when there is no ice to cover them. A flock which is swimming is approached by the hunter in a ky-ak, when most of them take alarm and fly away, but some dive down. The hunter rapidly follows in the probable direction in which the now submarine ducks are swimming, and the instant that one appears above water, it e ) i l\ .■ '- : ft* H i IP 104 Ou-c-la's Stories. [Dc mbcr, 1864. k frightened down by shouts and antic tricks in the way of motions. This one is selected as the victim or prize, and, as the hunter gets near it, he sees and follows it through the clear water. As often as it comes up to breathe, his shouts and motions follow, and thus the pur- suit is made till finally the poor duck is dead. Hall remembered that in 1861, when making a passage through the Beare Sound of Frobisher, some of his Innuit friends could not be restrained from pursuing this sport till they had deceived the ducks in the way described. " It certainly is an economical way to secure provision v/ithout the use of spears or guns." On the same day on which the walrus was secured, several of the natives had a desperate encounter with a huge Polar, killing it while three of their dogs kept the animal at bay. One of the lances which had entered the animal, he drew out with his teeth, and gave their best dog a terrible wound, cutting through the skin and flesh of his neck as clean as with a sharp knife. Ou-e-la, on returning from these hunts, entertained Hall with some huge bear-stories. With much emphasis he told of a woman who, a few years before, had heard a strange noise outside her igloo, and on leaving it, was seized by a large bear, who completely scalped her and disemboweled her child. An old man in the igloo, although a cripple in both legs, fastening a long knife to the end of a pole and crawling through the narrow passage-way of the hut at the doorway, braced his lance against the icy floor, when the bear, while springing toward his new victim, became his own executioner by receiving the knife directly through his heart. Ou-e-la further said that he had once, single-handed, killed a large bear with a lance only; at another time he had killed a bear of equal size with bow and arrow, without the DeceiMbcr, 1864.] ''The Arc-Ur 105 assistance even of dogs. lie had seen a bear kill a walrus by using a piece of ice weighing more than any one man could lift. The bear rounds the ice into a 'all, and stealthily runs on his hind legs toward his sleeping victim ; if the first blow on the head of the walrus fails to kill, he finishes his work by repeated blows on the thick skull. He contents himself with the blubber only, leaving the mass of meat for the fox, or for other animals which may follow his tracks. A peculiar animal was described to Hall, an account of which is scarcely to be found in Arctic books. The natives speak of it as being larger than the bear, and as very ferocious and much more diffi- cult to be killed. It has grayish hair, a long tail, and short, thick legs, its fore feet being divided into three parts like the partridge's; its hind feet are like a man's heels. When resting, it sits upright like a man. A Neitchille Innuit, crawling into a hole for shelter in the night, had found one sound asleep and quickly dispatched it with his knife. It may be added here that Ebierbing, now residing in the United States, confirms such accounts of the "Arc-la" and says that the animal once inhabited his native country on Cumberland Sound. On the morning of the 10th, Ebierbing, Ou-e-la, Ar-too-a, Ar- mou, Oon-goo-too, and Nu-ker-zJioo, accompanied by Rudolph, started on two sledges with full dog-teams to visit the whaling-vessels winter- ing in Depot Island — a contemplated trip which had been deferred only till the walrus season should commence. Rudolph was the hap- piest of the party. He had proved of little service to Hall, having early become dissatisfied with the strange mode of life to which his employer had habituated himself Yet he was ai times a voracious eater, consuming as much as 8 pounds of solid food at a meal, and then complaining of a feeling of " gone-ness," and fearing he would stJirve i ! ''I i 106 Rudolph Dismissed. IDecviuber, 186'1. to death. A part of tho time lie had btjen separately put in charge of one of the natives. He now looked forward with great satisfaction to resuming his life on shipboard and to ship-diet The parting was friendly. Hall gave him a letter to the captain of the Monticello, ask- ing that he would get a place for him on one of the whalers. Rudolph was also cautioned to have care of himself on the sledge journey, and the natives were requested to see that he should not be frost-bitten. At the same time a confidential history of Rudolph's conduct was sent to the ship, lest the man should gain credit if he attempted to spread misrepresentations among the whalers. His dissatisfaction and his uselessness to Hall had been largely owing to his disease of homesick- ness and, during the latter part of his time, to an attack of scurvy. A second letter to Captain Chapel requested that he would grant, at Hall's cost whatever reasonable requests the natives might make, if the value of the articles asked for by them should exceed that of the skins and clothing t ilcen down by them for barter. Among the articles for which Hall himself a&ked were a gun, a spy-glass, some walrus-lines, and tobacco, with a loaf of bread and a piece of butter for Too-koo-li- too. He wanted 50 pounds of tobacco, for it went further than any- thing else in gaining the good-will and lielp of the natives. Ou-e-la waited for the dispatches, which were made up by 9 a. m., and then overtook the sleds a mile in advance out on tlie rough ice, where the dogs were howling and springing with all their might to be off. Hall went with him that far, and on parting gave Ou-e-la a kiss (koo-nik) on his iron though warm cheek. The journal says : The sun was just lifting its glorious face from the ice horizon of Eowe's Wel- come. The air was calm and the temperature 02° below freezing-point by my large thermometer; therefore it was dry and exhilarating. The heavens, opposite the suu, were glowing iu warm crimson clouds, their upper edges tinted with i)urple December, 1864. The Natives Visit the Whalers. 107 and silverj' hues. Tbe day throughout was the coldest of the season, as the ther- mometer showed, but not the coldest as far as its eifect ui)on the luiman system is concerned. The average of three sets of observations on eight thermometers gave 05° below freezing-point as the aA^erage of the day. I have tried some experiments, perhaps too simple to require record. I put one of my fingers in contact with the brass plate of one of the thermometers; instantly I felt a sharp running sensation; in a few seconds that part of my flesh exposed to the brass plate was white as snow and frozen solid. A. smart rubbing with my other hand soon took the frost out, and the finger was as well as ever. I placed another finger for thirty seconds in exposed mercury; the smarting at first was severe, in fact, felt as though the finger was in a fire, but before the thirty seconds expired the smarting ceased, and I felt noways disagreeable. On taking my finger out of the mercury, it was frozen solid as a rock ; a smart persevering rubbing again took the frost out. I tried several times during the day the exi)eriment of keeping my hands unmittened, walking around thus for half an hour without their feeling very cold, and could have con- tinued with my hands thus exjjosed for a longer time had I been on a smart walk, as when traveling on a jour- ney. When there is no moisture in the air, as to-day, no dog-skin mittens. one would sujipose the temperature as cold as the thermometers indicate. I have felt colder in the States with the thermometer 32° than here in my walks to-day with hands and face exposed and ha\iug no other coat on but my civilization (Brevoort) one. The letter of the most interest sent by the natives to the whalers reads as follows : Winter Quarters, in Igloo, Noo-WooK, West end Eowe's Welcome, Lat. 04° -lO' N., Long. 87° 20' W., Friday, December 10, 1864. Dkar Friend Chapel: In this letter I have some deeply interesting intelli- gence to communicate to you. Since falling in with the natives I have not been idle. Nothing in Parry's nan'ative of second voyage for the discovery of the North- west Passage relating to the Eskimos of Winter Island and Igloolik but tlieso natives are perfectly posted up in. Indeed, I find through my superior interi)re- ter, Too-koo-litoo, that many deeply interesting incidents occurred at both-named places that never found their place in Parry's or Lyon's works. But the great work ah'eady done by me is the gaining little by little from these natives, through Too- koo-li-too and Ebierbing, news relating to Sir John Franklin's Expedition. This, 1, 1'^ 108 Further Reported News of FrankUrHs Men. iMwjember, i8«4. you know, was tho great object of my mission to tlie North. 1 cannot stop to tell you now all 1 have gained of this people — no, not the one hundredtli part. [Tho natives are now loading sledge; it is 7 o'clock 30 minutes a. m.] I will give you very briefly what tho people of England and America will be most interested to learn. When I come down I shall bring my dispatches and journals up to tho time of writing you, and these will be committed to your caro for transmitting to tho States. The most important matter that I have acquired relates to the fact that there may yet bo three survivors of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, and one of these, Crozier, the one who succeeded Sir John Franklin on his death. The details are deeply interesting, but this must suffice till I come down: Crozier and three men with him were found by a cousin of Ou-ela (Albert), Shoo-sheark-nook (John), and Ar-too-a (Frank), while mo\ing on the ico from one igloo to another; this cousin having with him his family and engaged in sealing. This occurred near Neitchille (Boothia Felix Peninsula). Crozier was nothing but "skin and bones," was nearly starved to death, while the three men with him were fat. The cousin soon learned that the three fat men had been living on human flesh, on the flesh of their companions who all deserted the two ships that were fast in mountains of ice; while Crozier was the only man that would not eat human flesh, and for this reason ho was almost dead from starvation. This cousin, who has two names (but I cannot stop to get them now), took Crozier and the three men at once in charge. He soon caught a seal, and gave Crozier quickly a little — a very little piece, which was raw — only one mouthful the first day. Tho cousin did not give the three fat men anything, for they could well get along, till Crozier's life was safe. The next day the cousin gave Crozier a little larger piece of same seal. By the judicious care of this cousin for Crozier, his life was saved. Indeed, Crozier's own judgment stxick to him in this terrible situation, for he agreed with the cousin that one little bit was all he should have tho first day. When the cousin first saw Crozier's face, it looked so bad — ^liis eyes all sunk in, tho face so skeleton-like and haggard, that he did not dare to look xipon Crozier's face for several days after; it made him feel so bad! This noble man, whom the whole civilized world will ever remember for humanity, took care of Croziei- and his three men, save one who died, through the whole winter. One man, however, died a short time after tho cousin found them, not because he starved, but because he was sick. In the spring, Crozier and the remaining two men accompanied this cousin on the Boothia Felix Peninsula to Neitchille, where there were many Innuits. Crozier and each of his men had guns and a plenty of ammunition, and many pretty things. They killc^d a great many ducks, nowyers, &c., with their guns. Here they lived with the Innuits at Neitchille, and Crozier December, 1864.] HaWs Letter to Chapel. 109 becamo fat and of good health. Crozier (old this cousin that he was once at IicillUc (ItepiUse Bay), at Winter Island and Igloolik, many years before, and that at the ivio last-named places he saw many Innuits, and got acquainted Avith them. This cousin had heard of Parry, Lyon, and Crozier, from his Innuit friends at Repulse Bay, some years previous^ and therefore when Crozier gave him his name ho recollected it. The cousin saw Crozier one year before he found him and the three men, where the two ships were in the ice. It was there that he found out that Crozier had been to Igloolik. Crozier and the two men lived with the Neitchille Innuits some time. The Iimuits liked him (C.) very much, and treated him alw.ays very kindly. At length Crozier, with his two men and one lunuit, who took along a Male (?) [an India- rubber boat, as Ebierbing thinks it was, for all along the ribs there was some- thing that could be filled with air], left Neitchille to try to go to the Icohlunah country, taking a south course. When Ou-ela (Albert) and his brothers, in 1854, saw this cousin that had been so good to Crozier and his men, at Pelly Bay which is not far from Neitch- ille, the cousin had not heard whether Crozier and the two men and Neitchille Innuit had ever come back or not. The Innuits never think they are dead — do not believe they are. Crozier offered to give his gun to the cousin for saving his life, but he would not accept it, for he was afraid it would kill him, it made such a great noise, and killed everything with nothing. Then Crozier gave him a long, curious knife (sword, as Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too say it was), and many pretty things besides. [The dogs are all in harness, and sledges loaded, and Innuits waiting for my letters. I promise to be ready in 30 minutes.] Crozier told the cousin of a fight with a band of Indians — not Innuits, but Indians. Tliis must have occurred near the entrance of Great Fish or Back's River. More of this when I see you. # ♦ * God bless you. C. F. HALL. Tliis unusually ill-written letter is quoted almost literally in order to show Hall's excited state of mind on receiving some of the earliest of what he then believed to be news of Franklin's party. It will appear in the latter part of the Narrative that the "cousin," so much spoken of, was found by Hall to have been far less useful or humane to Crozier than is here noted. Hall's readiness to believe everything- heard from the natives on his first acquaintance with them was largely 110 Superstitions. t December, tHtii. i ' I t t corrected by his further experience. At first lie seems to have beHeved what he wished to beheve. But his hiter journals record a number of connected judgments, always frankly entered, and even against himself. Nearly all the men were now absent from the settlement. After one unsuccessful attempt made by some of the natives who remained, to secure a walrus where the ice was found too thick for the animal to break through, a second effort was rewarded by their capturing the larger part of one, the remainder being lost by the ice-floes coming together and massing upon it. They had resumed their hunt in consequence of having seen, the night before, ** a walrus springing right up through the ice-floor of their igloo^\- — to them a sure sign of success. Another instance of their low superstitious customs was thus shown : The jiale-face, having expressed a desire for a change of food, Avas presented with the head and neck of a reindeer, for fear that there would be great trouble in catching a walrus ; but this provision could be placed neither on the floor nor behind the lamps on the platfonn, nor could it be either cooked or eaten with walrus-oil or on the same day with walrus-meat. Pieces of the frozen mass were, therefore, chipped off" on the bed-platform with carefulness that not one should fall upon the floor, and they were dipped in old rancid seal-oil before being eaten. Four quarts of walrus-oil were at the same time pre- sented to Hall for his lamp. A leaf from Hall's journal of the 18th, written on receiving this present, will further show the care which he exercised in subjecting himself to the low superstitions of the tribe : ErJi-iu-a came in bringins in Ler anns the head .and neck (raw, solid, and frozen) of a reindeer for me, as she heard that I wanted a change from walrus- r, J 864. Superstitions. Ill meat. Tliis vcniMon had to bo completely enveloped before it eould be brought into the iffloo, and, when in, could only be placed on the bed-phittbrni. To have placed it on the floor or on the idatforui behind the flre-lami), among the walrus, musk-ox, and judar-bear meat which occupy a goodly portion of both of these places, would have horrilled tlie whole town, as, according to the actual belief of the Innuits, not anotiier wah'us could l)e secured this year, and there would ever be trouble in capturing any more. Old Mother Ook-bar-loo and the son of ErTi-tu-a were both in my igloo at the time this present was made. Both these parties are, of course, greatly devoted to having everything according to the way of old — in other words, according to the custom of their fathers and nmny i)receding generations. They watched my every movement; but I was no small adept in this matter, so I pro- ceeded to gratify the calls of a hungry stomach in the following manner : I first unveiled IJrhtua's gift on the very spot where she had placed it, and called for a hatchet. Frozen chips of meat now flew to the right and left, wcntward; not one toward the floor. I had to be very, very cautious about that. These chips of raw frozen venison, when gathered up, made quite a i)ile for my breakfast. A cup of oil in which to sop these chips was soon near me. Then I i)roceeded, just as any Innuit would, to eat a hearty meal! The oil which I used as the sop was seal-oil, rancid and stinking. According to Innuit custom, walrus-blubber, or oil from it, cannot be used on any account with tood-noo meat. Notwithstanding the oil I used was of the condition I describe, yet I must state the truth that 1 have really got so far along in Innuits taste to like it thus, and to like it very much. Particles of meat that were scattered around on the bed-platfonn during my carving o])erations with the hatchet could not be brushed on the floor, as this would have brought down the indigiuition of my houseful of visitors. The tool- too skins on which these fine dust pieces were had to be taken up and shaken at the farther end or back side of the bed-'^dace, next to the wall of the igloo. In this way, and in this wo.y only, could the meat particles, including even such snow anr, 1N6I. iU i i A 1 wn ^ ' i Inniiit tradition of a punishment mentioned in Pairy's Narrative as administered for theft, which story is an illustration of the j)ovver of superstitious helief held I)}' this people in their an-ffe-ka ;^-or, as this word was pronounced at Ig-loo-lik, where Parry was, an-nat-ko. Oo- oo-tooky a superior an-nat-ko, was charged by Parry when at Ig-loo-lik with the crime of theft for taking a shovel, or a part of one, from along- side of the ship. PaiTy had him taken to a place between decks, and his hands firmly lashed up to tlie mast. Then two guns were loaded and fired at him. The balls did not hit him, but one passed close to his head and lodged in the mast. The other ball went close to his loins, but did not injure him. The guns were so near his body that the powder felt hot. Parry fired one of the gvins, and came very near killing himself, the ball glancing and rebounding in such a way that it passed close to his head. Another gun was about to be used in firing at Oo-oo-took, but it was found to be cracked (both barrel and stock), and, therefore, it was laid aside. Then Parry caused him to be whipped with something that was made of ropes with knots in them — cat-o'-nine-tails. The Innuits standing around and witnessing all this wanted to help Oo-oo-took defend himself, but he said : " Let the Koh- lu-nas try to kill me ; they cannot, for I am an an-nat-ko.^' Then Oo- oo-tooUs hands were untied, after which the koh-lu-nas tried to cut his head and hands off with long knives — probably swords. Every time a blow was struck, the extreme end of the knife came close to Oo-oo- took^ s throat ; occasionally the blade came just cibove the crown of his head, and when the attempt was made to cut off his hands the long knife came down very near his wrists ; but, after all, he was uninjured because he was a very good An-nat-ko. Some of the blows, however, did execution, cutting deep gashes in throat, head, and wrists ; but at Dcccmbvri 180'1> Ou-00-took on Varrijs Ship, 1824. 113 t'ucli stroke, m the knife wuh Hftotl, the wouikIh instantly hmled iq), the an-nat-ko \)Q>m\f nuule whole by the Good Spirit who protected him. . When Oo-oo-took was permitted to go on deck, he attempted to go a.shore. He was passing out of the gangway when four men seized him ; but during the struggle to free himself from further punishment, he kicked one koh-lu-na down the snow-steps, which fall nearly kille !,: '-l t ^ » i I that's right, tliiit's right ; and seoiucd iiiiich relieved from the Iright (hey had bei'oro been in wliile the fate of the thief seemed doubtful; but in three miinites after, not one of them was to be found near the ships, for they hurried off to tlie huts as fast as their legs and sledges could carry them. The example proved just what we desired ; in less than eight and forty hours, men, women, and (ihildreu came to the ships with the same conlidence as before, always abusing Oo-oo-tool; pronouncing themselves and us uncommonly good people, but evidently nmrc cautious than before of really incurring our displeasure The occurrence just related, instead of being placed to the account of these people's bad i)ropensi- ties, rather served to remind us of the rareness of such occurrences, and, there- fore, to furnish fresh proof of their general honesty. From a conversation held about this time, through Too-koo-H- too as interpreter, Hall believed that he had gained the key to the fact mentioned by Dr. Rae in his report to the Hudson Bay Com- pany in 1854, that the natives at Felly Bay had great objections to his party traveling across the country in a westerly direction, and had attempted to puzzle and mislead the interpreter. Hall was told that " some of the Innuits with whom he was Avintering, had tried, together with others from Pelly Bay, to persuade Dr. Rae to go to Shartoo, an island in Akkoolee Bay (the island called Prince of Wales Island, and the bay. Committee Bay, in Dr. Rae's chart), where he woidd find spars, rigging, casks, and boxes, and perhaps the hulk of a vessel. They understood from him that these were the very things he was looking for." The Innuits, therefore, professed that tlie objec- tions referred to had been made in good faith, and in order to lead Rae's party to the best locality. On the 23d, Hall discovered that he had lost a day in his reckon- ing. He had not confided in his dates for some time back, but now found the mejms for a correction. Going to the toj) of a hill to see the sun rise at 10 a m., he saw it about a diameter and a m I Orct'inlN^r, 18«<1.] Gifts lieceived from the Whalers. 115 lijilt" from the horizon, above ii low, thick bank of frost-snjoko which hung over the sea-ice. Through the u})per margin of the frost-smoke the true sun was clearly seen without any dazzling rays; but, above, two mock-suns showed themselves with a brilliancy overpowering the eye. With his pocket sextant he measured the angular distance between the nearest limbs of the sun and the moon, and found it to be approximately 62° 30'; which he verified by the use of his larger sextant. His table of lunar distances in the Nautical Almanac showed this as the true distance for December 23d in jdace of the 22d, as he had at first supposed the day to be. Looking over his journal, he discovered that the lost day could be accounted for by the want of all notes on one of his sick days, November 25. The sledge party now returned, and were heartily welcomed as soon as their very quiet entrance was noticed. One of the sleds hav- ing become unmanageable by the breaking off of the muck-shoeing, the dog3 had found it hard work to draw the heavy return load of natives and goods piled up on the other one; their fatigue had pre- vented the howling usual on their approaching home Two chests and a box, directed to Hall, were soon slid along through the snow passage-way into his igloo. They contained a variety of donations from Captains Chapel, of the Monticello ; Rogers, of the Concordia; White, of the Black P]agle; Tyson, of the Ante- lope, and Jeffries, of the George and Mary. Besides the very wel- come provision which made up the mass of these gifts, a quantity of different-colored beads and brass ornaments for the head had been sent as presents to the women, together with some articles to be exchanged for furs. In his record of the day, which not unfre(piently is found written as though it were a letter to his two never (orgotfcii it '' 116 The Innuits Fond of Ardent Spirits. (December, 1804. friends, the following expressions show his iippreciation of the change in diet now experienced : O, iny dear Mr. Griiincll and Mr. lirevoort, what Ji glorious supper wc havo had to-night; a change now and then in his food is what a wliito man likes. In- deed, the Innuits themselves like a change from their food to that of civilization after getting a little accustomed to it. • The journal of the 24th contains the record of a second indul- gence to the natives in his serving out to all who had assisted in build- ing his new ifjloo a quantity of Bourbon whisky, diluted with hot water and sweetened with sugar. This was dealt out contrary to his previous resolutions, but under the idea that, as they had acquired a taste for it from the whalers, it would be of service to him to indulge them occa- sionally. He adds: "I have found that I can do without liquor, and I do not touch a drop of anything stronger than tea or coffee. I will not say the Innuits shall not have a few drops once in two or three weeks, but the quantity to each shall be very small." The sledge journey to the ships, 135 miles distant, had been made in ninety-nine hours, and the return journey in seventy-eight; allow- ing, as did Ebierbing, one of the party, one-half of the time on their return as spent in stoppages, the average distance traveled had been about three and a half miles an hour. Captain Chapel sent back to Hall a letter of cordial good feeling, offering him further assistance. It has been already noticed as a fact, well known in Now London, that the whalers wintering in this region understood the instructions of their employers as authorizing them to assist him very freely. Chapel's letter, in speaking of the temperature where he was win- tering, said: The mercury has been from 30° to 56"^ below zero for the last fifteen days. The gla«s has not been above —32° for twenty days, and the large si»irit ther- 1 ■Pi ^iL December, 1864.] Decree of the An-ge-ko. 117 iiionietcr you gave mo, and in wiiicli I put so much confidence, lias l)een frozen for three Aveekts. It froze with the mercury at — 30°, and wlien the mercury stood at 34° below, the spirit was 100° below. This would surprise our New York friends if we should tell them.* An invitation having been given to the men while visiting the ships that they should return and bring their wives with them, Hall was glad to find that, at the next mi-koot-ing, the an-ge-ko announced an order from the Good Spirit that these visits should not be made, lest death after death should occur in the tribe. In addition to other plain reasons for his being gratified at this decree, there was now a better hope that the whole party would move early in the spring to Kepulse Bay. He felt sure that his further plans, which depended on this, would bo defeated if these visits were made. On the 2.'3th,* he took a meridian altitude of the sun, and found the true altitude to be 1° 51'; the observed lowest limb to sea-ice horizon, 2°. The observation was made from an elevation 30 feet above the sea-level. Although the sun was quite too low for reliable work, yet the latitude found by working up the observation was G4° 4iJ' 45", an approximation he little expected, as the true latitude is G4° 40' 20". On the 26th, he went out with the natives on a walrus-hunt, to observe the movements of the ice in the Welconu, as well as to see the walrus and the hunters The following account of the hunt is largely condensed from his own notes : At 8 a. m. he left his igloo, leading by a long trace-line one of "III conuoction with iintps of like extremo toiiippiaturos and tlic! inindiiiliility "f l><)t1i iiici- ciirial and spirit, tliornionieters, sec " Tho LiHt of tlio Arctic Voyages," by Sir Kdward liclclur, 18.')"), pp. 20.'')-208; also, notes of a like eharacter in otlier Arc(i(^ Narratives, ineliidinjj; Sir Oeorgo Niires' " Voyage to tlic Polar Sea." ITall's own jonrnal liaa a number of sneh records; also of bis repeated regrets that he h.id other tlmii standard iustrunients with liini. 118 The Walnis-IImt. IDcccmber. 1864. I: 1 the large dogs wliich were to bo employed in dragging- the walrus homo ; several other dogs were led by the Innuits, but by far the larger number were allowed to run loose, preceding or following the hunters. The distance to the walrus-grounds had been for some time constantly increasing as the land-floe widened, and the animals, accord- ingly, shifted their feeding-gi'ounds to the new ice or to the fissures near its edge. Having crossed the half-mile belt of very rough ico near the coast, and advanced about six miles, Hall came to this edge. A breeze from the north was driving the floe to the southward at the speed of a quick walk, and as it pressed heavily on the edge of the fixed ico, the noise was so terrible that he was at times forced to draw himself back several paces from the point to which he had ventured. For scores of miles to the north and south, the drifting floe was grind- ing its uneven face against the firm but jagged front on which he stood. Mounting a high ridge of ice, he saw, as far as the eye could reach seaward and up and down the Welcome, a boundless field slowly moving onward toward the south, but crushing to atoms miles and miles of massive ice ; now rearing up mountains on mountains, now plowing up acres into high ridges. Ou-e-la, who had joined him, was unable to reach a large walrus which rose in a small water-space five fathoms off", for the " squeezed, rolling, craunching mass" was working between the floes. He g{i\e a quick signal to those on the drifting floe, and Ar-mou and Ar-too-a ran rapidly toward the walrus ; but just as Ar-tnou had his harpoon raised, the animal disappeared in the water. Hall and Ou-e-la then directed their steps toward the loose pack which the others had already gained, to reach which the sharp eye of the Innuit quickly discovered the only possible crossing. A quick run, a few steps over sludge and i: December, 1864.J The Walrus-Hunt. 119 5 f ti o powdered ice, a leap from this tumbling- block to that one, and a final leap to the driving floe, brought the two safely over. Walruses could now be seen in every direction; some but- ting up ice-fragments from the solid main ; some with their heads through the butted holes ; some with a large part of the body above the ice. The hunters were busily at work. In one direction two Innuits were under full run for the same blowing walrus, the dogs running around them. All at once these hunters stopped, for the animal had taken the alarm and gone down. In another direction an ex- cited group were seen, one throwing the lance, another holding on a line, one jumping this way and another that, for a walrus appeared to be I i m H. — Joint witli tbongB Ioosi'iukI, wIr'u not in iKsi', to preserve (J. —Knob on tlio li.au- (llo to .secure ii iiriu hoM. their elasticity. a secured prize. With some difficulty Hall gained this si)ot, but found 120 A Dcath-Strvf/ffle. [Dccrmbrr, 1804. ! ' ,1: I'; i ■■ i 1 ■ i i i 1 i only ono Tnnuit reniiiining, wliilo the reddened ice and the hole showed a severe conflict. Shoo-she-ark-nook luid harpooned a very larj^e wah'us, and ho and Ebierbing had hinced it until it was almost dead. The harpoon, however, slipped out and the animal escaped, I'^bierbing losing his lance-head. An extensive floe of the " walrusing-ice" was now seen shooting over the ice on which they stood, and advancing from the north at the speed of a moderate walk ; its thickness was two inches, the same as that on which they stood. They were two miles from the land-floe, upon ice which bent like leather at every step, often yielding two or three inches without a fracture, and it would not do to remain at rest on such ice. '^Hiey were compelled to be constantly in motion, as the situation demanded. Hall hastened to a second group of Innuits who were as busily occupied as the first, and in a few moments found himself pulling away with others on a line which was fast to a largo walrus. After a few j)ulls, the half-killed animal came up in a flouncing, tumbling way. He was furiously mad. He had not only been harpooned, but lanced and lanced again and again, so that at every blow, quarts of thick, dark blood wore thrown uj), scattering itself about, painting the i(!o, the dogs, and the party with a crimson hue. Wliat a horrific lookiiifj creature a walrus is, especially in tlie face! It looks wicked, detestably bad. Indeed, a devil incarnate couM not have a more repulsive look to Turk or Christian. A hard death did this one die. lie fought desperately, but steel and sinewy arms, mulcr the control of cool, conrnge- ous hearts, finally conquered. As often as he came up to blow, he was met by the hince of the hari)ooner, who thrust it (piick and deep into the heart and chunicd away until the walrus withdrew by diving under the ice and llippering away (o the length of the line. Then, at each new appearance, he woidd fasten his long- ivory tusk (one had been broken ofl", probably in some light) upon the edg(> of Drcraibcr, I864> Sccurinff the Prize. 121 the ice, and tnrnins liis oyo.s around would spend his fury on tlie first of liis ene- mies wlio approaclied. He tlien ajjain tlipjjered baclt, and, as the nplilted lance was poised, moved violently forward and ui)ward, throwing forward his head with a circlinj^ sweep, as if to drive liis tusk to the very heart of his assailant. I What a terrible blow a walius can deal with his head and tusks ! Wlien he came up to breathe, which he did several tiuies throufjh ditiereut holes, restinj;-- with his tusk hooked onto the edge of the ice, at every breathing he e.\pelle»)r(' issued, the dying walrus qui(!kly raised liis head and stnuik it forward with tremendous force, tlumgh to little purpose, as the dogs were too quick dodg- ing the blows. Shoo-she-arlc-Hook at last cut a gash in the neck with his 2)cloud (long knife) and thrust the point into the very marrow of the spine. A fresh opening was now made in the ice, and to this the carcass was towed. Then tlie hne, made fast to the tough skin on the nose, was taken to the point of a small hummock five fathoms distant, and back again through a hole in the same tough skin. With this pur- chase, five of the party pulled aw y on the line, giadually sliding the carcass upon the ice. It weighed about 2,200 pounds. This done, each In- nuit sprang to the task of cutting open the carcass from head to tail, that it might cover over as large an area as possible on the ice. Yet the moment they commenced to haul up, the ice began to HEAD OF A WALKU8. bcud, aud by the time the walrus was disemboweled, the water covered it 6 inches deep. He was now cut up, longitudinally, into three parts, without being skinned, and while this cutting was going on, the dogs acted like so many devils, and it was impossible, even with a spear, to keep them away from the blood and flesh. The backbone, the lights, and a small poi'tion of the entrails only were thrown away. The edges of the longitudinal parts were then placed together by lines, to give each mass a rounded shape. The paunch accidentally fell in the water, %\ Drcembcr, 1864.J The JIunt Itcneived. 123 disappointing TTiill, wlio was tliinkinj^ of a clani-feast. TTo liad ex- pected to find the paunch well filled, as iisnal, with dams dean <»f their shells. lie says that rarely is any part of a shell larger than a dime found within the animal. Having often picked up a shigle shell close by a walrus-hole, he believed that the habit of the animal is to dig but one clam at a time, and then come up to blow and expel the shell. He wonders how it opens the clam so skillfully as not to fracture the shell. The homeward journey was attended with the usual troubles in crossing fissures and regaining the land-floe, but at 4.30 p. ni. the party reached their igloos. The dogs, divided into three teams, drew the walrus-rolls, which slid along over the rough ice more readily than a sled Ou-e-la, Ar-too-a, and Nii-Iier-zhoo, who had been furtlier to the southeast, joined Hall and his party on the way homo, Ou-c-la having lost his harpoon in an unsuccessful attempt to secure another walrus. One animal only having been taken at this time, the hunt was resumed in the closing days of the month, when a very long journey was made to determine whether the animals were deserting their feed- ing-grounds. Many holes were seen, but no indications of a recent visit, and there seemed no prospect of further success until a gale should carry out the heavy drift, and young ice should again form. For some who were out at this time on the floe, Too-koo-li-too koj)t. a beacon-light burning on the hill-top. The men endured much exposure ; when it was dark, they lay down on the ice with the dogs and slept until they became cold, then aroused themselves and walked again till they got warm ; alternately sleeping and walking through the whole night. . , 1 '^' ' 1 1' i :li 11' Ma i 5- I Chaptei^^ y. WINTER LIFE AND JOURNEY TO THE WAGER. JANUARY TO MAY, 1065. s 126 'Pi ? '/'h HA 1 .■,1,' t l^' iiiL:^ CHAPTER V. Ni;w Ykak's Day— Mam.'h spkiuii— Fi.',astin(i— IIkim.iaxt AnioitAs— Hi; visits with tiik I\. M'lT.S Tin: WIlAI.iatS at DkI-OT IhI-AN'D— IIoHPITAMITIOIS and AMINlOMlOMrt ()\ IIOAUD— KirririiN to Noo-wook— .Siioo-siie-aiik-nook I'eu8i:a1)Es .so.mk kf tiik I.nmtis to ahan- I)().\ IFAM.— Sll'l-OSKI. KAinTKil'AKK— Nl'.W OltOKHH OK TIIK A\-(lK-KO— Mk TKOUOI.OOICAI. oiisKuvATioNw— Want ok coxkiuknck in tiik in.stui-.mknts— Exi-eiii.mknt.s a.s to tiik KKKKZING-POINT OK MKIICLUY— .SKVKHITY OK TIIK COI.D— DlFKICL'LTY IN SIAKIXCi UKC- OKDS— HaI.I.'s IlltANS TAIII.KT.S— SlI'I'I.IKS NKAIil.Y KXIIAt'STKI>— EltlKUIUNO CO.MKH TO THE HKscuK— Flocks ok kidku-ducks in tiik Wkixome— Nativk cistoms in seamncs— NU-KKU-ZIIOO'h AND KlIIKUllINo's IM.-SrcCESS— SlI'I'I.IKS OF I'ltOVISION, IIKI,, AND I.IC.IIT NKAKLY flONE— Pl-KNTY llESTOUKU— TlIK SKASON MODERATING— PLAN FOlt SL'UVEY OK TIIK Wklcomk— Hall's iiuoken health- The tides in the iuveu— Hemoval to thi: Wageii. The first day of the year 1865, Sunday, was one of galo and drift, confining all witliin their huts. To make the Tnnuits acquainted with some of the pleasant customs of civilization, and, by so doing, further gain their respect and good-will, Hall kept the second day of the month as " Now Year's Day." The mean of six thermometers showed a tem- perature of 62° below freezing-point, and no cloud was seen on the sky. Yet Hall says, "We have all been as comfortable as though within houses of brick in New York." Too-koo-li-too having informed all the Innuits that calls were expected at the yjloo from the crest of which the American lia< g would l-'7 128 New Year's Day. (January, 1H03. bo flying, visits wore rocoivcd fit n very early hour, the visitors luiviii}^ but a short distance to come through the snow-covered passage-ways which connected ahnost all the igloos. Each one was greeted with "Happy Now Year! IIai)py New Year!" A breakfast of frozen veni- son, well relished, was followed by another on tood-noo, to which young Oolc-har-loo, son of l£rk-tu-a, treated all hfinds. Hall then set a table made of sea-chests resting on snow-pedestals. It was 25 feet in length, OKOUNU I'LAN OF VILLACiE lULOt). I, cutraiicc ; II, ceiitral igloo ; 13, bed-plutforui ; F, Uoor ; L, liiiup. extending into the huts of Ou-e-la, Ar-mou, and Nu-ker-slioo, and hav- ing for seats around it snow-blocks cushioned with deer-skins. Flags were draped, and lamps were lit all along the table, and at 2 p. m. twenty-one grown persons sat down to the feast. Mammark, a wife, for special reasons, and Ook-hur-loo, because still an invalid, being ruled out l>y custom, ate by themselves. Jannurr. ISM.J The Feast and the Key-loiv-tih. 129 Vegetable and pemmican soup and sea-bread were furnished, with coffee and isinglass-jelly, and raisins were freely distributed for dessert. Too-koo-li-too waited on the guests. On their rising from the table, many of them placed their hands in front, close by where they had abundantly stowed away the good things, and cried out, "Good! very good ! " At the second table, eighteen children were gathered, while the men retired to Ou-e-la^s hut to smoke. At 5 p. m., the men were treated to brandy punch, of which a few sips also were offered to the women, as they had asked Too-koo-li-too to let them taste what their husbands had told them of as a heart-warming and happy-making drink. Erk-tu-a said she had drink of the same kind many times on board PaiTy's ships, years before. The snow-domes were soon after made to ring with the songs of eleven of the women, mingled with the noise of repeated performances by the men on the key-loiv-tik, and followed by the Jhunderings of a dance. Each woman had on her forehead a bright brass band, while down one side of her face hung the usual long pig-tail adornment; on her breast was a 10-inch square cloth, the ground- work of which was scarlet, and the fringe, scores of long stnngs of beads a. <^ glass buttons; the body of the breastplate being covered with the same. Ebierbing was called out, and responded with a song, which, according to In- nuit custom, was his own property — not transferable. He had pro- foundly attentive listeners, and Too-koo-li-too said she never had thought her husband could do so well. Hall then gave notice through Ebierbing that he had a speech to make, and Ebierbing made quite a speech in givin^the notice. Dress- ing as a civilized man and taking a central position under a snow-arch, S. Lx. 27 9 I ' ' 'M ! 180 HaWs /Speech. [Jaanarr, 186S. hi i :rf Hall then "began with his best bow" by expressing his satisfaction at having lived with them four moons as a brother, without either having spoken one bad word to them, or having heard one from them to him- self He tried to impress them with the greatness of his native coun- try, and the protection always shown to its citizens by its one great E-she-mut-ta (Chief), enforcing this idea by pointing to the flags arouna him. Giving them some idea of the Queen of England also, whom he called ''the Great Mother that owned all the big water and the land on which they were, as well as the country of Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too," he turned to these two, and told of their visit to Eng- land and to the palace of the Queen. After offering a good deal of wholesome advice to persuade his hearers to have more care as to their intercourse with white men, some of whom, he reminded them, had robbed them of their hunting lines, while others had taught them to be profane, and had introduced disease among them, he repeated in full his reasons for leaving home. "I have come," he said, "to your country to find out all about some white brothers who came to your land many years ago, but who never came back. Many of these brothers had wives and children. Their wives want the Innuits to tell me all about what they know of their husbands. Their children want you to tell me all about what you know of their fathers. * * * I shall want you to help me a good deal ; you have told me that you would go with me to Neitchille, and help me to find out all about the ship or two ships, as some of you have told me, that were two years, as you all say, in the ice near that place. I have pow- der, balls, shot, and caps enough for us all for three years. All these things I will share with you. So long as I am in your country, let us be as we have been for the four moons just passed — a band of brothers Jnnnarr, 180S<] An Aurora. 131 jiud sisters. I thank you all vory much. Good nig-lit." On liis con- cluding" a very long- talk, of which the precedinj^ is the substance, Too-koo-li-too told Hall that ho had much pleased his hearers, who wished him to talk again He had throughout the speech made fre- quent pauses, so that his interpreters could make him perfectly under- stood. The three days which followed the feast had been again days of gale and drift. The meteorological notes of the fourth day of the month read: "This morning the mean of five thermometers " is 70° below freezing-point. The registers of three others are rejected. One of them, the longest, indicates over 100° below freezing-point; No. 2 registers 110°, and No. 7 will not register more than 77° below the freezing-point. A long and heavy cloud overhung the open water in the Welcome, its vapor looking like steam from a monstrous boiling cauldron." On the evening of the 7th, at 8.45, a band of children came run- ning into Hall's iffloo, crying out ^^ Oh-shum-nmng ! Ok-shum-mung!^^ — (Lights very fine.) He thus describes this aurora: When he registered the thermometer at 7 p. m., the sky was clear and cloudless, and there were no evidences of auroral action. At 8.45 there were three belts of aurora extending nearly in straight lines from near the horizon in the southeast up to the zenith, and thence within 40° of the horizon to the northwest. To the southwest there were belts of aurora, com- passing a large portion of the heavens from 15° to 40° above the hori- zon, these belts having contortions or folds like those in the Con- stellation, Draco. A fresh breeze was blowing from the north-north- west. Thermometer, 72° below freezing-point; barometer, 30.04. * 132 !ii,i The Natives Wish to Visit the Ships Afjain [Jnnnnrr, I869> i The rays of the aurora were vertical; it appeared all alive, as if in high glee, dancing to and fro with almost the rapidity of lightning. The three belts extending from southeast to northwest were the most interesting, as they often flashed into the brilliant colors of the rain- bow. Each belt occasionally resolved itself into two lines or tiers of rays; as one line would dance rapidly to windward, the other would dance as quickly in the opposite direction. This extraordinary display lasted five minutes — an unusual time. Hall was so impressed with it that he wrote, " If at home it could be witnessed for one moment, one would say, * I never saw northern lights before.'" The natives were now looking forward to hunt again for walrus when the ice should form. After securing one animal they would renew their visit to the whale-ships. They pleaded for this visit their promise to assist the captains in getting fresh meat for the crews, and their having received from them many presents without making any in return. Hall's journal says : Iniiuits are a strange people to deal with; a white man, to get along with them, must liave the patience of Job. They are the children of nature, and like to do just as a notion leads them. I learned this evening that half the people of the village, including several of the women, are making arrangements to accom- pany me down to Depot Island. I must try to check this, for if the Innuits can be induced to be here in the middle of February, I can make my desired journey next spring. If I had a small vessel at Eepulse Bay, I could learn all the particu- lars of the Franklin Expedition in two years; with Innuits alone it may take five or more. If I have, however, a team of ten dogs, mj^self Ebierbiug and Too- koo-li-too can reach Boothia Felix in the spring. I regret that I have not a few white men with me. But a second visit to the ship at Depot Island was arranged. The party was made up of Hall, six Innuit men, Too-koo-li-too, and six other females, a boy (Oot-pik), and two babes; all of whom were Juunaryi 1863>| IlaWs Visit to the Whalers. 133 seated on three sledges drawn by twenty-two dogs. Tlie boy, Oot-pik, liad awakened in Hall much interest by his brightness and his hand- some figure. When an infant, he was near perishing by being cast off by his parents, who thought that he was near death and would never be other than a burden to them, and his fate was just decided, on their taking fright when his hair began to fall off But Ar-goo-moo-too-lik and his wife, who had but one child of their own, by the consent of the boy's parents, promptly interposed to adopt him, and he very soon recovered his full health. Quick to learn, he was now fast becoming ready in speaking English. The sledge party were well supplied with venison, walrus-meat, and blubber, and reindeer-furs for traffic; besides their own provision and the articles necessary for use on their journey. The thermometer, when they bade good-bye to the twenty-six Innuits left behind, was 72° below freezing-point. Running for a short distance directly south over the land, they struck out for the sea-ice soon found to be smooth, and then followed the coast, with the open water on their left hand at the distance of less than a mile. Large flocks of ducks were seen, and fast- streaming columns of vapor rose vertically into a heavy fog-bank extending north and south as far as the eye could reach. At 3 p. m., leaving the coast and striking the tracks of the party who had gone down in December, they halted for the night at the old igloo, which had been occupied by that company, about 17 nautical miles south-southwest from their winter quarters at Noo-wook. A load of venison and tood-noo was soon secured from one of the many de- posits which had been made in the last season. Two small storehouses were next quickly built near enough to the igloo for them to hear any attempt the dogs might make to break into these for the meat ; and 'W •V! ,. 134 The Igloo Made on the Journey. [Jnnunrr, 1865. ■\ i'iij i' ;' i- m while one of Ou-e-Ms wives shoveled out the snow-drift from the main hut, the other increased the thickness of its walls by banking up more snow on the outside. Hall's offered assistance to the women in this wox'k of using the por-kin, (snow-shovel,) was refused by the husband. The drift being thrown out of the way, Ou-e-la then entered and made a bed-platform on each side of the igloo, dividing the two by a trench a foot in depth. GROUND-PLAN OP IGLOO. January 9, 1865. Scale, i"-12". The women and children having then crowded in, made up the beds by spreading over the platforms their furred deer-skins, and lit the three fire-lamps to melt snow for the thirsty. The men on enter- ing carefully beat their jackets and kodlin, (outside breeches,) with their ar-row-tars, to prevent the warmth of the igloo during the night from !■ T, 1869. The Sleep in the Snow-Hut 135 melting the snow upon them ; for if it again froze upon them it would make the garments heavy as well as cold. This thorough beating re- AU-ROW-TAR, SNOW-BEATER. The wood of this from one of Franklin's ships. quired a full half hour. The temperature within the hut, under the influence of the lamps and of the crowd, quickly rose from 41°, but was again lowered by the venison in the trench, which, when first brought in, smoked as if on fire. To prevent the tongue and lips from being frozen at the first taste of the meat, it was held, for a few moments, in mittened hands and breathed upon, the children's share being kept awhile in their parents' mouths. Oii-e-Ms half-breed in- fant, slipping entirely naked from its mother's hood, played on the bed, and on Ou-e-Ms raising the child to his shoulders, it stood erect, balancing itself, swinging its arms and crowing at the feat. At 9 p. m., the whole party huddled together for the night, some being compelled to sit upright through the long hours of sleep. Sev- enteen breathers were sealed up, with a large snow-block, in a hut but 10 feet in diameter! On opposite sides of the trench, nine were on one platform and eight on the other ; every one (Innuit fashion) having the head toward the trench. In the morning, between the hours of 3 and 4, the men waked, ate a quantity of deer-meat, smoked, and again went to sleep. At 5, the whole party were amused to find that the lamp-smoke during the night had covered them with soot. Hall waked with a severe head- ache from the " excess of carbonic-acid gas generated by three fire- lights and seventeen persons." i 1 136 Uall Frcquent/i/ FtoU- Bitten. IJanHarr, IHflS. Having- re-shod their runners with ice, they now repeated their experiences of the preceding day and made a journey of 2G miles in a south-southwest direction, the children riding all the Avay, but the grown persons about half the time walking or running beside the sleds. SEAL-SKl.N HOOTS. UKAH-SKIN Ml! lEXS. Watching Hall, the natives on this day, and on the days follow- ing, thirty times restored his frost-bitten nose and cheeks by their vigorous rubbing. He accounts for this frosting by the fact that for the preceding month he had eaten but little, having lost all appetite for walrus-meat, and by his leaving his "phiz" unprotected, as he wished it to become hardened to cold. His cheek at one time re- mained frozen fifteen minutes. In the igloo occupied the second night, slabs of frozen kow (walrus- hide) were hung on spears running crosswise near the top of the hut. They were thus partially thawed by morning, when the dogs were called in one at a time and fed on short strips of the meat. On the third day a furious gale was encountered, which increased below Cape Fullerton, compelling a halt at 2.15 p. m., at the end of a journey of 26 miles, during which it had been necessary to encase the children in reindeer-skins, and lash them on Ou-e-la!s sled. The iirst stroke of the spear in testing at this place the snow and I '! 4. i ill, I ill Jnnuaryi iS03• m 138 Arrival at Depot Island. IJaaiiurri INOS. 1 ! .;! needle-lines in the distance. The dogs were now urged to their utmost speed, but the storm-clouds shut in upon them before Hall could take a compass-bearing which might have saved some hours of wandering. Traveling then became exceedingly difficult, until, accord- ing to Eskimo usage in such cases, a woman was selected as the guide. One of On-e-lah wives well executed this task, although for a time mis- led by a light on Ar-goo-moo-too-lWs sled which was seeking to regain its track. This light was from a piece of moss at the bottom of a dish containing a little oil ; at first she believed it to be on the ships. Re- gaining their course, the party soon saw a signal swinging high on the mast of the Monticello, its crew having heard ihe cries of the dog- drivers and dogs for half a mile back. Hall had closely shaved his hair and beard for this journey, yet devoutly wishing when he cut them that the ice could have been kept off, that they might have been saved to warm him. He was distinguishable from the rest of the snow-covered party by his voice only ; but was soon recognized by Captain Chapel, and welcomed to his old quarters on the ship. After partaking of the first hospitalities of the Monticello, and seeing that his party were properly cared for, he turned into his bunk, expecting a full season of rest. But the change from the igloo was too sudden ; he slept none during the night. After his next meal he could not help entering in his journal that he "liked civilization food" as well as any man, and it was only through his determination to fathom the mystery relative to the lost expedition that he could possibly submit to live the life of the Eskimos as he had done and as he must still do. He congratulated himself that he had not forgotten how to use his plate, knife, and fork after 135 days' disuse of said articles. JnnHarjTi I86S> Amusements on Board the Whalers. 139 In this liarbor, a little more than a mile west of Depot Island, four whalers besides the Monticello were anchored within rifle-shot of each other ; these were the George and Mary of New London ; the Black J]agle and the Antelope of New Bedford ; and the Concordia of Fair- haven, Mass. Each was banked up with snow six or eight feet thick and nearly up to the gunwale, the upper deck being well housed. On board the Monticello, altliough but little coal was used, the tempera- ture was kept above 32° throughout the vessel. Five other whalers, including the Ansell Gibbs and the Tender, Helen F., were anchored in a commodious harbor completely land-locked on the northwest side of Marble Island , an islet about 15 miles in length, lying 12 miles off the coast. On board all of these vessels the musements usually gotten up by Arctic voyagers for maintaining the cheerfulness and health of their crews were at this time in full play, and were generally of a theatrical charac- ter, varied by masked balls and by several forms of the dance. Among the exercises of speaking and singing, the memory of Franklin and the fate of his expedition were not forgotten. The new-comers were par- ticularly pleased with the farces, while Tdb-koo-li-too, in her turn, gave the ships' companies great satisfaction by her skill in a Green- land dance. Hall experienced a full share of the hospitalities frequently recip- rocated between the vessels at the two islands. The meat which his party had brought down with the design of dividing it among the five ships at Depot Island had been pounced upon by one crew. But the supply of fresh meats- was plentiful on all the ships, and the condition of the musk-ox meat previously obtained, and of the hogs brought out from home, was a good indication of the care taken by the whalers 140 Ilo.'tpUalUi/ on lioanl. IJnnunrr, INM3. against Hcurvy, cases of which wore very few and of the lightest forai. His first (lisai)|)ointniont was the news that botli the Anteh)i)o and tljo lihick Eagle had been in Kepulso Bay in August previous ; that the land was then covered with reindeer, and that these ships had looked for him, and would probably have remained there all the win- ter had they found him. These vessels had seen many whales, and each ship had secured ten; all which had been seen, were small. Hall's disappointment was followed by his entire failure to obtain now a promise from Oii-c-la of a dog-team for his spring sledge journey, or the loan of a team from the ships ; they would need all their dogs for the early spring floe-whaling. During his stay on the whalers, unwillingly protracted to the 10th of the following month, he spent much time on the volumes of his Arctic library, left on the Monticello in August; especially on those works which would best aid him on this voyage and on his proposed future voyage to the North Pole He did not fail to record some strange reading of the thermometers, together with interest- ing auroral and other atmospheric phenomena. On the 15th, the mercurial thermometer oi^ the Monticello's mainmast read, at 7 a. m., — 44° ; at noon, — 43° ; at 7 p. m., — 45° ; while his own ethereal ther- mometer read, at the same hours, — 37°, — 36°, — 38°. the last three records too high. He says : He believed I am convinced of this by the test I lately made at my winter quarters by exposing, one night, a dish of pure mercury to the outdoor air. My thermometers are numbered 0, I, II, III, IV, V, VI, and VII. In the morning, wlien my No. thermometer stood at 400.5, the mercury was frozen so hard that oidy the sliarp nails of the finger could be made to penetrate it. Undoubtedly 5° or 0° higher temperature would have left it in a frozen, unfluid state. Some mercury will freeze at — 38° ; pure may not at even — H)°. 'tl!-, ii ii ilil! ' Vfbruarri INttS.I How to Determine Time at the Pole. 141 111 ('liapt'l's tlicriiiometer tlio mercury would not nui down tlio tiibc whilo Invortt'd until ii lew dogreos of wimntli wore I'oniniuniciitetl to it, but tln> tln'r- iiionu'tcr continut'd to act. I am satisllcd that a good mcn'uriid instnimcnt will indicati' the true state of the atmosidiere several doffiees below the temperature of the mercury with which it is tilled. In ono of his leisure hours, revolving in mind the problem of dotermininj^ time at the North Polo, ho eanio to the conclusion that Avith the liel}) of an English nsiiitical almanac, Greenwich time could bo found there by star occultations or by the eclipses of Ju})iter's satel- lites, but perhaps oftener by lunar distances. He had at first reasoned Jhat at a place where there could be no such thing as a day, and no cardinal point but one ; where all the heavenly bodies revolve paral- lel to the horizon, with the exception of the change caused by the variation of declination ; where there is no meridian, or rather whero every meridian is :— it would seem impossible to determine time. *Tliero is one great difliculty thiit will be experienced liywlioinsoeverHli.iU reach tlio Pole; that is, iherexiUlhv )io means for diivtiniiiing time hy aatronomical ohmrvations How can there be when all the heavenly bodies in view of the observer while at the Pole are continually ntvolving about liini jiarallel with his horizon. The only exception to this is simply the variation of decli- nation. At the Xorth I'olv there can bo no vjijier or lower culminations of the sun, nionn, planets, and stars, for it is a point whero there is no meridian; then it follows that there is no day thert! — no solar day, no sidcrial day, no Ivnar day. Why no day f "Because a day is the interval time between the departure of a heavenly body from any meridian and its succeeding return to it ;" and there being no meridian fit the North Pole, there can bo no departure from or niturn to oiiti by a heavenly body. At the North Polo there is no meridian ; it is a point nevertheless where tlio meridians of every spot on the face of the globe meet, or, in other words, where they teriniuato to (zero or nothing). But a iieie idea had just struck me. Time can bo determined at the North Pole by litnarg. Having a Nautical Almanac and the usual instruments, it can bo (.'asily done. Take one observation of the sun's iiltitudo, or of either of ttlo planets or stars used in lunar obser- vations; one altitude of tho moon, without any particular caro in noting the exact time when these two observations are made ; then carefully observe tho angular distance of sun and moon, or moon and ono of tho planets or stars used in lunar observations, and note the time. [I did not mean by my references to determining time at tho P(do that this will be North Polar time or mean time. Certainly not, for this, as I understand the matter, would be absurd. To siiy that such an event occurred at such an hour North Polo time or mean time would be out of all reason]. Having made tho usual observations in taking a lunar, work these up. The true distance of tho moon from sun, or planet, or star being found, proceed with tho use of the lunar tables as in lunar Avork. The result will be Greenwich time if tho British or American Nautical Almanac bo the ono used. I do not consider it uccessary that one at tho Polo should have a chronometer 142 Hall Returns to Noo-wook. i I [February, 1863. !'? ! ! On the 10th of February he began his return journey to Noo- wooJc, leaving behind him, as he had unwillingly anticipated, the larger number of the natives. They had made themselves very useful in hunting for the crews the seal, the fox, and the bear, with the usual varied success and excitement of the chase. Ar-mou at one time going alone in pursuit of a large polar, harpooned him, but, in his determi- nation to secure the animal, he was himself fairly dragged over the thin ice to the sea and nearly drowned. Oii^e-la and Ar-mou, before going down in December, hav^ c.^*eed that they would early return. But now, with their wives and friends, they were not unwillingly detained by the captains. On bidding the whalers good-bye. Hall was furnished with some substantial and even delicacies ; for he was unable to conceal the fact that he considered some "civilization food" as almost a necessity. After the play of Damon and Pythias, given in his honor on the previous evening, he made a speech to 140 seamen gathered on one of the ships, complimenting the courage and hardi- hood of the American whalers who succeeded in finding harbors in a tliat hail boeu adjusted to Greenwich or to any other time in making his lunar observations. Indeed, it may be supposed that he knows nothing of time save the year. By the observed alti- tude and variation of declination of the sun or one of the planets, he can determine the month of the year, and by the lunar distance the day of the month, and by repeated workings of the lunar observations can determine Greenwich mean time as approximately as lunars will admit. H.aving Greenwich mean time by it, one easily gets Greenwich apparent time. The party now at the Pole, Ave will say, is desirous to proceed toward Greenwich. He consults his watch, which is now at band and in running order. A good time-pieee should, however, be in hand at the time the angular distance of the moon from the sun, or the moon from such other heavenly body as may be used in the lunar observations is observed, and the exact moment noted. !No matter what hour this instrument is set to before commencing the observation, the result of the lunar obser- vations will show how much too fast or slow the chronometer is on Greenwich time ; and thus one has in hand the instrument to tell him at any moment, therefore, the Greenwich mean time. When the time-piece indicates the apparent time of Greenwich of Oh. Om. Os., the sun (we ■will suppose it to be summer in north latitude) is, on the meridian of Greenwich, exactly in the direction of Greenwich. The observer at this moment directs his coinpass-sigli\< and takes a bearing. He proceeds, as he leaves the Polo, not only south (there is only one cardinal point at the North Pole, which is south), but on the vieridian of Greenwich. ' Greenwich mean time may be determ'ned by an occultation of a stai or of a planet; also, hy the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites. Jupiter, however, is alternately in sight and out of sight for six years at a time at the Poles of the earth. (Journal on board the whaler at Depot Island.) Vebrnarr. 1863.] Arrival at Noo-wook. 143 locality in the bay where a like success had not been met with by H. M. S. Griper in 1824.* Beginning his jouniey at 8.30 in the morning, he was accompanied by Shoo-she-ark-nooJc, Ook-bar-ho, Too-koo-li-too, and a girl named Notv-yer. Their dogs numbered ten. After traveling 27 miles in an easterly direction, they again quartered for the night in an igloo on the sea-ice. The distance made on the second day was about the same as that on the first, but on the third they lost their way, Hall's com- passes proving totally unreliable. He was glad again to trust himself to the skillful guidance of the Innuits. Turning next to the north they were met by a furious gale from the northeast, with thick snow, shutting them up a second time on the ice of the Welcome, but the next morning all was calm and "clear as a bell." They reached Noo-wook on the 14th. Hall had suffered on the journey by the strange conduct of Shoo- she-ark-nook, who had allowed each of the party but a few ounces from the abundance of walrus-meat packed on the sled, although he ate pounds of it himself and fed it to the dogs, and although Hall had freely shared with him all his own bread and coffee. To keep up his strength and warmth, for the supply of winch to an Arctic traveler bread and coffee are not enough, he had submitted to eat the unpalatable and tough kow (hide of the walrus). In accordance with the expectations he had held out to the natives on New Year's Day, he now distributed to them the presents which he had obtained from the ships. The bread which Ar-mou had sent back to his family had unfortunately been stolen by the dogs on the jour- * Lyon's journal (p. 110) says: Marble Island, according to Middleton, is tlio only spot along the whole American coast from Churchill upward which affords tolerably good anchorage. There is an excellent harbor in the island, but its entrance is dangerous. At spring tides there arc only 13 feet on the bar. The Griper drev/ Ifi feet. Nil if 11^ ■■ ■1! ' III, 144 -4 Beported Earthquake. [Frbrunry, 1863. ney. The natives were living on short commons, because of their recent ill success in hunting. Ebierbing, on the day following, while on an unsuccessful walrus hunt, killed one of a large flock of eider-ducks (Mei-tuks), of the weight of which Hall satisfied himself by first bal- ancing it with the two books "The Fate of Franklin" and "Burritt's Geography of the Heavens" in a tin kettle, and then balancing these volumes with a bag of rifle-balls. He found the weight of the duck to be that of 312 rifle-balls, = 6 pounds. The bird had in its gizzard snail-shells in perfect condition, wiiich were preserved for examination as to their species. On the 17th, at 50 minutes past noon, a low rumbling noise was heard, resembling that of a train of cars slowly crossing a bridge and dying gradually away. The Innuits said that a like noise had been heard twice during Hall's absence, coming from the southeast, and continuing for a long time, and spoke of it as Toon-gwa, the bad Spirit, shaking the earth. During a new performance by the an-ge-ko, to which he summoned all hands at midnight, he issued the order that the kook-higs must not be emptied, nor the frost scraped from the ice- windows of the igloos till sunrise. This order, however, was accom- panied by another decree for an exchange of wives; and on his own wife's refusal to go to Ebierbing's hut for this purpose, the An-ge-ko, (Ar-too-a,) beat her most unmercifully. A few days after, fourteen of the Innuits moved a few miles southward, ostensibly to be nearer the seal and walrus grounds and their depositaries of reindeer-meat. About an equal number, includ- ing his two fast friends, remained with Hall. Shoo-she-ark-nook, through some ill feeling, had endeavored to persuade every one to desert him. During this native's sickness and that of his son. Hall had closely watched both, and saved them when at death's door. For Febrnnry, 1N6S. A Seal Secured hy Ingenuity. 145 a few days, now, he was placed under serious apprehension that Shoo- she-ark-nook would induce all to leave him with Ebierbing and Too- koo-li-too, to jret along the best way they could alone. The fel- low was, not long after, brought to terms when his own necessities returned upon him. Ebierbing, on the 19th, shot a seal weighing 125 pounds. It was too fat to sink, and its blubber made more than four gallons of oil. The meat was divided equally among all the families. Having no other means of securing a second seal which he had killed at too great a distance from the land-ice to be reached by his harpoon, he had endeavored to lodge in its body a line shot out from a rifle-grooved ball ; but, each time, his line broke. His companions, talking over the matter, returned to the spot with Hall, and found the water now cov- ered with a thin coat of ice. Lashing together a number of poles and flats, and making of them an oonar (seal-spear) a hundred feet in length, they fastened to its end a harpoon carrying a seal -line, and then pushed this long pole through a hole in the ice toward the seal. It re- quired skill to direct it, as the sea-ice is not transparent, but on the second attempt, after sunset, the sejil was reached, and the harpoon withdrawn an arm's length and struck into the animal by a skillful blow. Snow was next kicked upon the body, and then thoroughly rubbed off with the feet, to prevent its hairy coat from being loaded with ice. A hole was cut in its nose and a line passed through it, by a loop of which, thrown over Hall's shoulders, he dragged it to his igloo, sharing it equally with all. On the 24th and 25th a severe gale prevailed from the north- northwest, the thermometer ranging from —23° to —34°, and the snow drifting thickly. Over the Welcome, the fog-bank showed that the ice S. Ex. 27- -10 19'! 1(K- '' '■ Ir 'i ill 'I :iii 1 ir!i iili llf!. «;)' Iv'i fl; ,1 i'i ' •i ■ 11 ! ? , 146 Low but Unreliable Thermometer Headings. [Pebraary, isfla. had been driven off shore. The mean of the five thermometers at 7 p. m., when tlie gale had entirely subsided, was — 39°; but Hall had now further reason to place no confidence in two out of seven instruments, one of which stood at — 100° and the other at — 75°. Shortly after this he wrote : " It is annoying to have but one of nine thermom- eters, right. But by taking even one to the United States, and having it compared with a standard, with my data, all the observations can be worked up to said standard." During the niglit of the 26th his five self-registering thermometers read, -48°, -46°, —48°, —48°, — /)2°. At 8 a. n. he -peri- mented with the mercury given to him by Mr. Green, one Oi the in- strument-makers of New York, for his artificial horizon Pouring some of this into a dish near his thermometer, he found the mass quickly frozen, small spherical drops remaining fluid until the pressure of a pencil changed their form. When the mass of the mercury again became fluid, or nearly so, with the rising temperature, these globules remained solid. The following table gives the results of his observations ; the thermometers numbered I, II, and VII, at»first being below the marks, were not read : is Thcrmomctora nuinbi'iec — Stprruiial test — stntc of ex- poHCd mercury. ^1 0. I. ir. 1 III. IV. V. VI. VII. h, m. -38° i 1 -37°. 5 -38°. 5 -38°. 5 -44° fe =6 Hai-d frozen. 8 -37°. 5 " ^ 1^ -.IfiO -38°. 5 -38°. 5 -44° o .g Hard frozen. a 30 -360 ^ -t -83°. 5 -.'14°. 5 -38° -37°. 5 -42° Hard frozen. ou -3.-.0 -80° -33°. 7 -36° -35°. 5 -40° -41° Hard frozen. 10 10 -33°. 5 n -77° -32° -34°. 25 -34° -38° -39° Yieldhij; ,i Uttlo. 10 25 -32° -90° -73°. 5 ' -30° -33° -33° -30° -37° Scnii-tiiiid, half of it. 10 45 -30° -880 -72° -29° -31°. 75 -31° -35° -36° Nearlv fluid; some still solid. 11 1 February, INAS.J The Freezing- Point of Mercury. 147 These experiiTients still further confirmed his uncertainty as to the true freezing-point of mercury, and he was at a loss to know how to correct his thennometer-reg-ister. On the following day he continued his experiments with frozen mercury, the lowest temperature during the night having been — 39'^ ; and at 7 a m.-his themiometers standing thus: - 36°, - 90°, - 72°, - 34°, - 36°, - 36°, - 40°, — 42°. An attempt to mold mercury into a bullet did not meet with success. The temperature of the freezing mass now differed from what had appeared on the previous day, and he began to question whether its repeated freezing does not affect the case, or whether the discrepancies noted had not arisen from some lack of watchfulness needed to prevent the communicating of heat to the thermometers from his own person.* He says : " Why should I not be in doubt about the freezing-point of mercury when masses freeze and little rain-drops of the same metal from the same jar remain fl' id? Admitting that mercury freezes, by a * Those notes of Hall's oxperiments may be compared with the following, to be found in the " Results derived from the Arctic Expedition, ISTH-'TC" (Parlianu'utary Paper C, 217C). Captain Nares says, on p. 107 : " Tlie spirit and mercury thermometers were fixed alongside one another in the same screen, and, being read off every hour during the winter, were found to agree very well together mitil the temperature fell to .about — 44°, when, on the temperature reaching a certain point be- tween — 45° and — 4(i°.r), the mercury fell suddenly to a point in the tube which would bo about equal to — (iO° had the tube been graduated. " While in this state, the mercury could be easily tapped down to a lower point in the scale. It appeared to bo very brittle — that is, as the end of it reached the narrow ])assage leading to the bull), small pardeles broke off and found their way through. The stream was not continuous. "When the thermouu'ter was left quite si ill, no nuitter how cold the atmosphere was, the mercury never sank lower in the tube than about — W\ " When a thaw set in, the first efl'ect was to melt the mercury remaining in the tiibe, which fell into the bulb out of sight, the mercury in the bulb always taking a longer time and a higher temperature before it became fluid. By the observations made, this temperature is about — 1^5°, but l(!ugth of time may affect the actual degree at which the mercury would becouK! fluid. " Occasionally, when the mercury assumed the fluid state, the expansion was apparently a sudden action, as the mercury in the tube of the maximum thermometer, lying in nearly a hori- zontal position, was projected along the tube, and registered a much higher temper.iture than that of the atmosphere ; thus, on February SJ2 the maximum thermometer registered a tempera- ture of -\- 5P..5, and on March 30, -f :!°.0, both readings being higher than the actual temperature experienced." During the 24 houi-s j)receding the first of these observations, the weather was stormy, and the thermometer may have been shaken. '' { I;, Mr Uii'l 148 Extreme Difficulty in Writm/. [Fcbruurjr, IflM. Htandard thermometer, at — 40°, then my thermometer No. does not register when at — 35° low enough by at least 5°, for at lO''" 10'"- a. m. frozen mercury remained solid and fluid mercury froze." He now made his own records with great difficulty ; his inkstand occasionally was warmed beneath the fur clothing of one of the Innuits, the pen was constantly warmed by breathing on it, and the ink in his pen breathed upon as frequently. His fingers and thumb he Avanned by a small lamp, which also heated two metal plates* alternately placed underneath the leaf on which he wrote. The ink was obtained from a deposit of icy ink-blocks outside of the igloo ; slices from these were chipped off, crushed, and thawed inside. In detailing this, and speaking of his frequent exercise necessary to keep his blood in motion, he says, that " although apparently warmly dressed in skins from head to foot, (his) vigilance in dancing on the snow floor of the igloo to keep his blood in circulation was the price not only of liberty, but of life itself" The supply both of meat and blubber for oil had now become very low, suggesting grave apprehensions of want. The seal-meat was all gone and the walrus-meat nearly devoured. The blubber, so necessary for the lamp-light and for molting snow for their drink, was consumed. The only supplies left were in the reindeer deposits, which, in the severity of the cold, could scarcely be opened ; and their tood-noo, without which the meat was poor food, was also gone. "Oil "Hia account of these iiietul plates is of interest: "I have before ine a lamp with two Avieks kept constantly burning. The brass sheets are 10 inches each by 5 ; and while one ia heated the other, which has been made hot, is under the h.'af on which 1 write, warming it ; this, in tuni, keeps my lingers warm and the ink from freezing in the i)en, and dries the writing. Changing the plates after writing on each half a dozen lines, I am able to make up my journals, the thermom- eter at my side showing 42° below the freezing-point. It is a plan of my own." [The plates, with the pen, inkstand, and other relics, were at the Arctic exhibit put up for the United States Naval Observatory at the Centennial, 1876. ] march, 1H0S.\ Starvation Driven Off". 149 was what, they most needed, not only for their fire-lamps, but for the human stoves^ Ebierbing, however, was now again successful in the capture of a full-grown seal weighing 250 pounds. Hall went down the coast a half mile, and attaching a dog-team to the seal, in fifteen minutes had it in his igloo, and shared it all around with his friends, including Shoo-she-ark-nook. Nuk-cr-zhoo brought in a load of venison from a distant deposit. Plenty came again. February, there- fore, closed with widely-extended moss-wicks on all their fire-lamps, once more aglow ; — with the stomachs, which had nearly collapsed, again filled to repletion. Sorrowful faces and silence then gave way to smiles and to merry voices. Within the first few days of March, Shoo-she-ark-nook and his family made their long-talked-of move to a new point north, half way to the Wager River, expecting to catch salmon through the ice and to gather supplies of reindeer from some of their own deposits. The conduct of this Innuit had, for some time past, given uneasiness, small tools and other articles which had disappeared from the passage- ways usually considered safe, having been found in his igloo; besides which, serious apprehensions were renewed that he was again persuad- ing the rest of the natives to desert Hall. On parting, however, he promised to give his assistance on Hall's proposed journey to Repulse Bay ; and, not long after, he sent back to him a very acceptable j)resent of frozen salmon, asking for tobacco, and receiving it cor- dially, together with blubber, medicine, and some food. Plall, with Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, now entered a new igloo, called the "seventh encampment," distant 120 fathoms further south. Tliis was to gratify the superstitious notion that since so few of the people now remained in the village they must abandon all their old i \'J 150 Intense Cold. [Mnrrh, 186.1. if llfi^ -ir 'T H' « huts, or failure in the seal and walrus hunt might ensue. The new iffloo, made of coarse-grained blocks, with but little depth of snow for its floor, was particularly cold and uncomfortable, until embankments were thrown up outside and inside. Too-koo-li-too had lined it with the sail and jib of the Sylvia and with ripped-up canvas bags, et cetera — the et cetera being chiefly the petticoat which she had worn when in the United States. The 5th day of the month was again one of storm, the gale be- coming almost a hurricane. The storm-wind was cuttingly keen. Hall wrote in his journal, " King Cold, even when severest, is harm- less in a calm; but when he gets the winds of old Boreas and charges them with his mighty power, man turns his face for shelter." Taking the mean of the readings of his "0" thermometer for the previous evening with the three of the day, and applying the correction of adding — 7°, which his experiments with the mercury had prompted him to do, he found the temperature in the gale to be H7° below freez- ing-point. The drift filled the air so that one could see nothing a few fathoms ofl", and yet the sun peered dimly through it the whole day, so that the terrific gale was hugging the earth. Probably a few hundred feet above, all was sunshine. At night the feeble rays of the moon pierced through the swiftly-moving white pall which enshrouded the land. When writing his journals now the greatest difiiculty was, not to get the ink but his thoughts to flow. "When mechanical contrivances are to be attended to every few moments, and when King Cold is con- tinually thrusting his stinging needles into the toes and fingers, and finally chills one through and through, it is utterly impossible to think with freedom. While writing, one becomes lost in a labyrinth of stiff- march, l«0S.l Native Mode of Sealing. 151 frozen ideas, from which he can escape only by the most violent physical exercise." On the Oth, after a protracted and severe struggle with a walrus found sleeping on the drifting- ice, seven miles out, Ebierbing and Nu-ker- zhoo, after freely using their harpoons and lances, at last pierced his neck with a well-directed bullet. Night coming on, the two left their rifles on the ice and returned to their huts. The next day, Hall with three of his friends made their way over the rough sea-ice — a temper-trying field of chaos made up of piled blocks of every conceivable shape, size, and position, fractured and raised by the pressure of the floes upon such ice as had become fixed. They found the creature still fast to the line by which Ebierbing had tied him to a hummock ; but the current, at the last, swept this line under the land-ice, broke it, and took from them their prize. Four flocks of the eider-duck (Anas mollis- sima) were seen, which they estimated contained 1 ,000 each, the males predominating. Hall notes as of interest to naturalists, their winter- ing in very large numbers in waters of such high latitude as the Welcome. The customs of the natives in sealing during the winter are detailed as follows : When the hunt is prosecuted over seal-holes, no seal is seen by the sealer until he has made fast to it. The locality of the hole is found by a seal-dop only, and the sealer then proceeds to prospect with the long sphidle shank of his oonar, i)iercing the snow until it penetrates the exact spot of the hole which leads up through the sea-ice. Then, with one eye, a sight is taken through this spindle-shank hole, to determine whether it is about the center of the seal-hoUs, as this is the point where the spindle-shank hole must be located. When the seal comes to this hole to blow, the listener prepares himself for striking his harpoon vertically through it ; and on the second or third puff 152 Nu-ker-zhoo's Seal- Watch. [march, IN«S. m ■ill (ir blow of the aiiiiiial, down }j;ot'H a ^troiij; iniiMciilar arm, carryiii}; a haq)ooti into its head, neck, or back. When i he seal divos cair^yng out tlu'! U>nfjtli of the lino attached to the harpoon, the sealer retaininj; firm hold of the other end, removes all the snow from over the hole, draws the seal into it, and drags him out. Two such seal hunts now followed. On the 8tl», Nu-ker-zJioo took Hall with him three miles out from the shore to a seal-hole which he had discovered, and about which he had built a snow-wall 5 feet in diameter and 5 feet in height on the north side, but 18 inches only on the south. This was for his protection from the wind while watching. Into this hole, at the spot marked on his previous visit, Nu-ker- ehoo I'an a whalebone rod, which, by striking ice, showed that some time had passed since the seal had been there ; drawing out th rod and smelling it, he whispered ^^tepid^^ (stink — huU-seo]). Returning the rod to the same little holv3, he carefully scraped away the snow from around the rod, so as to leave only about 6 inches over the seal-hole. He then drew out the rod and placed the end of the wood-part of his oo-nar directly over the rod-hole. Holding this perpendicular with one hand, he used the other in packing snow around it till he had returned the 10 inches of snow over the seal-hole which he had scraped away. Then the spear-handle was lifted up gently, which left an inch-square hole ; this was to be his mark and guide for his harpoon in striking the seal as soon as he should hear it. He then ran the little rod down through the dome of the seal's house (or as it may be called agloo, for it is really a small snow-hut) to determine the depth of the snow over it ; for it was on this his feet were to rest while watching. The next thing was to prepare himself for spending the whole night in perfect silence. He threw down a piece of furred deer-skin ; ■ mnrcb, IMM.J Ebwrlm rl- .1 i .*^l ifji watching for them, Hall himself was at one time exposed to the most imminent danger of his life by the opening, of the floes. He records in his notes his thanks for preservation and his purpose to exercise greater caution. For a number of reasons now forced upon him, he unwillingly came to the conclusion that his anticipations of disappointment in obtaining dogs and provisions for a spring journey toward King William's Land, would be more than contirmed. The season advancing while he was still so far from Repulse Bay, it would be as much as he could accom- plish while making his voyage there, to stand by his boat and stores, his personal protection of which had become clearly an absolute ne- cessity. The dispersion of the Innui(,s seenied to prove that perhaps little reliance could be placed on their help. He therefore began to lay his plans for an early move with his boat to the bay; yet, under the delays even for this, which were plainly before him, he contem- plated a useful work of which he thus speaks : I have been thinking that perhaps I can do no better than to survey and chart the west coast line of the Welcome, commencing a few miles to the south- ward of this point, and thence up to Wager Bay ; and then do the same with the Bay. I regret I have not a light theodolite, a very essential instrument for such work as surveying in these parts, when the compass is of no use whatc ^r. At ])resent I see no other way than to do it all with sextant, determining latitudes of the more important points astronomically, and taking solar bearings from one point to another; the intermediate indentations of coast being examined and charted as best I cti. Although this work and very much more around Hudson's Bay needs to be done, and done well, if at all, yet I have not the heart to do it, for it is old ground, an ancient discover}' without survey. Give me the means and I will not only discover the North Pole, but survey all the land I might find between Kane's farthest and it, and have my whole soul in the work. His health at this time was far from being strong. He had suffered much from the very severe exposures to which he had been subjected, and particularly on the day when he had been in imminent danger of I f -*■■■■ •i ■i ! 1. . 4 ,iri iji t March, I86S. Revewed Plans. 16 J) his life while out on the ice-floes walrusing with Joe. But his chief ailment was a sharp and severe pain in his left breast, ai-ising- from the strained and unnatural position which he was obliged to take when writing his journals. "Of all the work ever accomplished in the north- ern regions, nothing had done him the one hundredth part of the injury which journalizing did." So far as he found it possible under the circumstances to form any- matured plan for his advance, he sketched a rough outline including the points: — that on ari'iving at Repulse Bay he must establish his headquarters and go in with his company of Innuits for reindeer- hunting to lay up a stock of provision for the following winter; that durinj;- the winter (1865-66) he would make a sledge journey to Bootliia Felix and King William's Land, and be on hand for summer work in the latter of these; that he would spend the winter of 1 866-67 with the Innuits of Boothia Felix, many of whom really winter near King William's Land: and having completed, as he hoped, all his work, by the summer of 1867 he would be ready for home. When writing of this to Chapel, of the Monticello, he said : Eeniember thsit 1 purpose to go to that part of the Avorld where one huii- «lre(l and thirty choicely picked men — the very tlower of the English Navy — all ])erished, save three, in one short month or so by eold and starvation. I cannot accomplish what I have undertaken except by the greatest caution. I and my companions may never return, though I do not entertain the thought tliat siu-h an event is probable. There is more to be feared that we may fall by the treachery of the evil disposed portion of the natives than by cold and starvation; but as I shall make deposits of records at Eepidse Bay and at other places, and shall describe how they can be found, if we do perish, the world cati still learn what I have accomplished. The necessity for his delay after he should reach Repulse Bay, arose from the fact that it would be entirely too late on his arrival iJ'?! los:, IGO Ou-e-Ia Returns from Depot Island. (April, 1863. 11 ii* !; 't lit " 111 If 1 there for any sledge journey. It will be found that his anticipations of any treachery on the part of his companions were far from being realized. He was able to company with them safely through the long delays of five years. The movements of the different parties of Innuits toward the Wager were now dictated by their necessity for a change of residence to obtain the supplies which the opening season promised from the capture of salmon and the seal. These movements, as would be ex- pected, were fitful and the journeys generally slow. Hall's entire dependence on them is sufficiently obvious ; and it is satisfactory to find in his journals that any temporary break in the exercise of that mutual good feeling which was to him a necessity, was soon healed. Plis friends, the captains at the islands, had rendered him good assist- ance toward this, by exhorting Ou-e-la on his protracted visit to give on his return better counsels to his people. This he seems to have faithfully done. He surprised Hall on the 1st day of the month by coming in upon him in his igloo with his wife and a sled which he had heavily loaded up from a deposit twenty miles down the Welcome. The rough working of this sled over the ice had made him perspire very freely, but he at once called for repeated draughts of water, on Hall's remonstrating against which, Ebierbing said that quart after quart never hurt an Eskimo when perspiring. Ou-e-la brought with much news from Captain Chapel, the luxuries of some ship-bread and half a dozen mince-pies ; he also brought a large-sized neit-yuk, seal (Phoca hispida). Room in the igloos was readily made for the new- comers, whose first meal with their friends was again ruled by Innuit custom. Ou-e-la had eaten venison in the morning ; he could not now April, ISAS.l A Gale. 161 eat seal ; his friends had eaten seal, and must be content with more of the same for supper. The next morning's comfort, however, was improved by a sociable breakfast by all hands on boiled salmon. Ebierbing brought in during the day two Arctic D-pound hares, which Hall weighed by balancing them with bullets the weight of which he knew to be fifty-two to the pound. A mutual instruction class seems to have been ben unintentionally formed among the party housed by the gale. Ou-e-la spent much time in confirming what had been previously more than once asserted bj^ his people, that trees were certainly to be seen growing on Shar-too (Prince of Wales Island), and that between Wager River and Boothia a species of soap- stone used in making the native lamps and kettles (the Lapis ollaris) is to be found in abundance. Hall, on his side, gained their attention while correcting their crude ideas of the motions of the sun, moon, and stars; like all other Innuits, they believed that these moved daily around the earth. On the 4th, the lowest reading of the thermometer was 57° below freezing-point. A southeast gale, which prevailed from the 5th to the 8th, is noted in connection with expressions of sympathy for Franklin's men in the terrible sufierings which they must have endured if in their weak state overtaken bv such a storm on their fated way to Montreal Island. The thermometer during this gale showed a mean temperature of — 18° and a minimum of — 30^. For ten hours, however, two of the natives remained out unflinchingly to bring in reindeer-carcasses at nightfall. Hall's igloo was the headquarters for fresh meat. They were all still living on an ook-gook which Ebierbing shot on the 16th of the month previous ; and it is again to be noted that he was the chief S. Ex. 27 11 'III 162 The Tides. lApril, 1863. hi 1,, V , Wi'' 1^ ;;•;:! III Imntor for the village. He was the only Inniiit who had as yet shot a seal in the open Avater But Hall knew that he had been accivj- tomed to this for years, and felt satisfied that if Joe kept his health, there need be no fear but that he would secure enough provision to keep eight or ten hearty men in good working condition. The full opportunities which now offered themselves for observ- ing the tides in the Welcome, led to the conclusion that their true direc- tion differs from that spoken of by N. West Fox, who explored the strait in 1631, and by other earlier as well as later explorers. The flood- tide was found to set in from the south, while the ebb comes from the north. The Eskimos say that below the Wager, oo-lee-po-ke (flood- tide) comes from the south, and tin-ne-po-ke (ebb-tide) comes from the north ; while above the river the reverse is found. The tides in Hudson's Bay, Hall remembered, were admitted to be inconsistent with general rules. He had read that — WLen it was discovered that at Ecsolutioii Island, lying at its entrance, the tide was full 30 feet at full and change of moon ; less and less as advance is made Avestward ; only G feet at Cary Swan's Nest, on the south of Southami)ton Island ; but thence to the west side of Hudson Strait higher and higher, and the further an advance is made north, still increasing: — it was (ioncluded that there must be some strait or i)assage connecting the west side of the bay to a western ocean or the South Sea. The move toward the Wager and thence to Repulse Bay was now begun. On the 10th, Ou-e-la and his family, with some of Hall's stores, started with a large team toward the Wager River, folloAved by every remaining one of the company except Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, who still domiciled with Hall. His igloo, which up to this time had been so often crowded by men, women, and children, and dogs, was now left free, giving him the enjo3'ment of some repose for writing. April, 186S.1 Hall Moves toward the Wager. 163 Ar-mou^s sled had on it his whale-boat presented by the captains of the ships, which was 28 feet in length, with (i feet beam, and 2.} feet depth. Besides this boat, with its oars and rigging, the sled held household utensils and provision; yet the team was made up of but six dogs. Nu-her-zhoo had but two dogs and a puppy for a load usu- ally requiring a team of eight ; but the journey before them prom- ised to be over comparatively smooth and hard snow. Very soon Ar-mou stopped his team and gave each of his dogs a most unmerci- ful thrashing "just to warm them up and prepare them for their hard work." Four days after they left him, and while Hall and Ebierbing were in their igloo finishing their own packing, thev heard the cry of dogs, and soon after, the sound of their pattering feet and the music of the sleds gliding over the crisp snow. Unharnessed dogs then came bound- ing into the igloo, seizing whatever had the appearance of meat or skin; hunger had made them fiends, and blows from a club or hatchet that would have killed an ordinary dog were necessary to save what remained of the provender. Their masters, Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a, next appeared, and it was evident that Oii-e-la had brought his companions to a better mind toward Hall, for they joined cordially in loading up the stores and assisting him to start. In the afternoon, after journeying over compact snow 14^ miles in a direction north-northwest from the last encampment, Hall came to the new settlement already made by the advanced parties on a lake- let, and was warmly received. By meridian observation of the sun, the latitude of this "eighth encampment" was found to be G4° 55' 19" N. On the lake were seen a number of snow-walls, measuring- each nearly two-thirds of a circle of from four to five feet in diameter 104 Arrival at the River. (April, ISeS. m «i iii: liii :E- C fiti w III! :U§ and the same in height. The concave sides of these facing south were slieltering the women and "children while fishing for salmon through the openings which the men had cut. Ar-too-a^s wife, being seized with a fit, was surrounded by her friends who were about giving her up, when Hall succeeded in restor- ing her by the use of medicine, completing the cure on her second attack. Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too suffered from severe colds which they took during the warm days, on one of which the tempera- ture was as high as 3ii°.5. The freedom from colds among the natives was generally so marked that they attributed what discomfort they had to their having caught colds from the white men on their visit to the ships. On the 24th, Hall's party moved to his ninth igloo, and on the next day the boats were sent forward to gain a position near Wager Eiver. The half-starved dogs were so ferocious as to be almost unmanageable, but their loads were borne forward by the help of a sail, rigged lug-fashion and spread to the southerly winds. They moved rapidly along. On the journey, Too-koo-li-too caught "a whale of a salmon" weighing more than 15 pounds. It was 37J inches long and 20 inches in cii'cumference, a " Jbwa/i" 13 inches long being found within it. Traveling again over the hard snow which covered the long narrow lakelets and the small space of land between them, the party made excellent time through this highway between the rocks, which had been long known and frequented by the natives. Five heavily- loaded sleds pushed forward, men, women, and children being har- nessed to each to assist the dogs, and on the 29th the party went into huts on the ice of the Wager, lat. 65° 19' N , long. 88° 40' W. The severely cold, cloudy, and hazy weather had produced snow-blind- ness, with which even Ebierbing had become aifected. w \ ^ p HAPTER yj- FROM THE WAGER TO FORT HOPE. MAY TO SEPTEMBER, 1865. •i'll Is!'' 'Ha- liHilfili m I gill t 'MIM M CHAPTER VI. I ! :| TlIK TIIIUTEENTH ENCAMPMENT MADE UPON THE WaGEU RiVEH— A SUCCESSFUL SEALING SEASON— Hall's own piiize — Rejoicings at tiu: fiust success of a youno Innuit— Custosis at TiiK niiiTii of an infant— Movin(( from kong-monos into TU-PiKs— Appeauance of Tin; DESKinKl) VILLAGE — AUllOIlA — Joi'ItNEY TO REPULSE UaY— REFRACTION— ENCAJII'M K.N 1 ON OOG-LA-RIO-YOUn ISLAND — OU-E-LA'S DEXTERITY IN HUNTING — GAME SECURED— TlP; MAKING OF OOK-GOOK LINES— CLEARING OUT OF THE ICE— APPEARANCE OF THE WlIALEIts IN THE Welcome— Refraction— Storm — Treatment of the dogs- The tides— De^IiI OF Shoo-she-ark-nook— Mourning customs— Renewed appearance of whaujrs in Repulse Bay— Capture of a whale by the crews of Hall's boats— ENCAMP^f-Ni NEAR Fort Hope of Dr. Rae — Hall's notes ov the rocks, stones, and sand found on THE ice compared WITH PaRRY's OBSERVATIONH. At the end of nine weary months Hall had now but reached the place on wliich ho had expected to make his first landing. His encampment was next made on the ice out in the Wager. Its astro- nomical position when recorded, was followed by a note of the accu- rate judgment shown at the time by Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a "in keeping in their mind's eye so approximately the direction of distant points." When separately directing the compass at Hall's request toward Noo- woolc, sixty-two miles distant, they pointed it in lines differing but one degree; and on Hall's applying the correction for declination, he found the bearing nearly agreeing with his own result. On the 3d of the month the party witnessed a fine auroral dis- play in the western sky; the color was nearly a medium between 107 \m ^ 168 //«//'« Fir.st Cajtture. innr, isaa. i i I 111 I. ■! Mr-/ 1 il .III' 3:i#^ ,3 ', ';■ Hilver juid crojini; tlio rays iictivo mid (^limifj^onblo; the hum whh uboiit ono dogroo iibove tlio Wiifjcr's ico liorizon, iiiukiny tlio fleecy (rlouds Idi^^litly aglow. The hour wnH 8.20 p. in. The temperature* for a number of days remained low, the readinys being 37° and even 42° below freezing-point. Sealing, however, soon began to prove successful. Nn-hcr-zhoo, with ono stroke, harpooned a mother that had on her buck a pup W foot .'5 inches in length, and on which the hair was beginning to take the l)lace of its white woolly coat. Shortl}' after this, five other seals were taken. Under the guidance of the Innuits, and with the help of his own capital seal-dog Ou-e-Ia, on the ^th. Hall made his own first but valued prize, a ndt-yuh, weighing k!00 pounds. Finding himself among the busy sealers on the ice, he soon heard Nii-ler-zhoo calling him to the seal-hole at which he was; and seating himself on a snow- block over the unseen hole, and there listening intently and scarcely moving a limb for one full hour, at last he heard a softly-breathing noise beneath the snow. Raising himself then cautiously to his feet, which rested on the furred took-too skin, and with his light hand pois- ing his oo-nar over the spot that Nu-ker-zhoo had imprinted in the snow over the seal-hole, witli his full force ho drove the spear vertically down, and instantly found that the blow was a telling one. The coil of the seal-line held in his left hand, began at once to run out; in fact, the whole of it was at first jerked out of his hand. But "quick as a flash," he says : I seized it again, lU' 1 would liave lost my prize, as well as the harpoon and line. The sealers far and ueur saw that 1 was fast to a seal, and although I called to Nnlicr-zhoo, '•'■Iciete! Jdete!^' — aiii('(l by his doj;, (lia^';,nii};- a seal which ho, has aud sled;fe, and a seal whi<'li ^[r-)n<>ii had taken a little wliihi bel'oie. All this time nobody had seen my seal, lor it was Hipping away down in salt water beneath the snow and i<'e. of Wa^er IMver, still fast to oni^ end of my line while I held on to the other. Xii-kcrzlKHi, with his iwUnuj (hmj;' knife), then <'ut away the snow, two feet in depth eovoriuf; the seal-hole, and removinj;' still more with my spear, he chiseled away the iee-liniufjf just above the hole. Soon the seal came up to breathe, and then the death-blow was yiveu to it by a thrust inniit UAiicooN-nKADs. of the spindle of the s])ear directly into the thin skidl. The prize -was diawn forth — a larjicr seal than either Ou-c-UCh or Armoi(\. A};ain the air resonndcd with slumts and joyous laufihter. It was the first case anioii"- thoni of a wliite man's success in liar- pooning. The i)arty of fourteen imniediately cut out the liver and a little of the blubber of each seal for their lunch, and carefully sewed up the slits, that none of the blood, so valued for soui), should be lost. They then buried the animals in the snow, to prevent their skins from blis- tering in the sun's rays, and still fin-ther ])rose(!uted the hunt, dragging to their hom-mongs in the evening seven seals, the average weight of which was 200 pounds each. From that date, the living was on seal- meat exclusively for a number of days. It was a fair exchange for H U !1* 170 The Ktpe-kut-ta [mar, i^nn. ft .1. ■ii l! ; I t : "f tho hoo-muchs (worms picked from the reindeer-carcasses), the soup from which the Iniiuits had been enjoying. They oat these even when tlieir WinJet's bej^in to form. For Hall's future success in sealing-, Oii-e-la made him f> Jcipe-kut-ta, a little rod of whalebone, about the size of a conmion knitting-needle, about 30 inches long, and pointed with a small sewing-needle, the other end having a thin string, 2 feet in length, to which is attached a peg. This was for a seal-signal, particularly to be used in windy weather when it is difficult to hear the breathing of the seal, or when the snow- covering of its hole is verj'^ deep. When the animal api)roaches its hole to blow or breathe, it will strike its head or neck against the needle-point and lift the slender and light Jcipe-kut-ta, slackening the string; this is the signal for the huntsman to deal his blow. This nee- dle is used onl} when really necessary ; for if the seal strike its nose or any tender part of its face against the point, it may become alarmed; or if the instrument should happen to chafe against the snow so as to produce a noise, the wary animal will at once become sus- picious and retreat. Sometimes the sealer has an advantage in its use when the seal, almost exhausted, is forced to gain access to the air even at tho expense of its fears. Hall ifterwa- ' used his signal-rod twice, but without any good fortune. Before the middle of the month success in the hunt had so in- creased that ten seals were caught on a single day. At this time, as fast as brought in, they were devoured, save the ook-sook (blubber). " It is astonishing, even to me, to see the vast amount of meat that a company of Innuits can ccusume. They can live on little if little is all they have; they do live on a great deal if abundance is obtained." Hall relished venison even when nuich tainted, though bread and inn)', 18U3.I The First Seal Cnuf/ld hi/ a YourKj Innuit. J 71 coffee were welcome adjuncts. lie 11100,5111 young to. .Iipi)ers, luiir and all except the iinoer-nails, tender and nice as a spring'-cliickcn ; l»ut of his experience, generally, of the effects of old seal and walrus meat, ho says that for days after eating it, his tongue tasted badly, as though it were much fiirred, and that seal-meat alone or seal-meat with blubber is terrible on a white man — excessively constipating. On the Innuits the effect is less serious. Cooked seal-blood when eaten becomes equivalent to the "tappen^^ of the she polar bear, which it prodiices by eating moss preceding hibernation ; indeed, it amounts almost to nn inunovable mechanical obstniction to what nature de- signed should have free way. Walrus-meat affects the system about the same way. Too-koo-li-too believed that the reason the Innuits are so dark-colored is because of their eating so much raw seal-m(iat and blood ; and that the Kinna-patoos., whose country is in the vicinity of Chesterfield Inlet, must be a lighter-skinned people, as they never eat raw seal-meat. Hall remarks, in connection with this, that Imuiit babies when quite young are nearly white. The first exploit in seal-catching by a young native is thus detailed : The mother of the hoy IvcecJmcIc came to the entrance of our liom-mong, lier whole frame shaking with Joy, while she tokl the news she had just heard, that lier sou liad harpooned and killed a seal in its hole. Then she went from Ay>/h- movg to lonMnong, notifying the womer '; her son was on his Avay back with the prize, and started off with all speed to meet him. I watched every movement closely. As she met him, the dogrs were stopped and the joyous mother embraced her darling successful boy, then stooped and patted the seal as though it were a living pet. She next disengaged the dogs' harness from the draught-line, and started toward her lomnwnff, dragging the seal aiier her, when the women, with their oodloos^ haster^ed to meet her. It was a woman's race. Old Ook-har-loo hobbled along as fast as she could, but was left far behind, and, therefore, she !1 'K. 11 i j J il li: III II- 172 Innuit Customs. fMar, 1865. il -:i: ^t ■I"! kei)t ciyiiifj out in her native vernacular for her competitors not to go too fast. Though this old petulant creature's commands are usually obeyed, they were not regarded this time, for the race proved a hot one, though the surroundings Avere nothing but heavy ice, hard snow, and very cold air. As fast as the Avomen came uj) to the seal which the mother was dragging, they fell upon it and slashed away right and left with their oodloos, till the poor defunct was completely haggled into as many pieces as there were hagglers.* Old OoJc-bar-loo, having arrived late, only got a small portion of the seal — the liver, heart, and lights. Too-koo-li-too in the contest succeeded in getting a hind quarter, consisting of meat, blubber, skin, and flipper. Some women got more and others less, though they left what their customs required — the head, neck, fore flippers, and some of theblubber and meat, — for embellishing the igloo where the youthful victor resides. What remained was dragged to the i(;.oo by the joyous mother, and thus ended the public celebration. The first seal caught in open water and the first one taken by watching over an ice-hole are occasions for hke demonstrations of joy, in which all usually share, except those who have been afflicted by death in their families during the year. The tracks of the reindeer were now frequently seen. p]bierbing failed in securing some bucks through his snow-blindness ; in a few days, however, ho was well, and, with his usual skill, caught two seals, of which he gave pieces to the different families and piled up the rest on the floor of Hall's kom-monff, making it, look like a slaughter-house. On the 12th, ( ne of Ar-mou^s wives, who had given birth to a child on the 5th, was now permitted by the Innuit customs to come again from her separate igloo into the family hut ; not, however, by the common passage-way, but, at the decision of Old Mother Ook-bar- * HalJ does not give the diraensionB of the seals captured. It may bo of interest to noto the uieasnrenientB given by Captain Lyon in his narrative of a voyage to the suino region. The num- ber of seals daily seen by his olBcers was large, and their boldness made them an easy prey. Four were killed one evening, two of whieh (the Phoca Barhata, or bearded seal,) weighed from eight to nine hundredweight. The length of one from nose to insertion of the tail was 8 feet ; the length of the fore llippiu', 10 inehes; of liind tlipjiitr, 1 foot 3J inches ; the circumference of the belly was 7 feet; tlio circumference of the head behind the ears, U feet fi inches; the circumference of the nose, 1 foot 4 inches. mar. 1S6S.1 A Sledge Trip. 173 loo, by an openings cut for the purpose through the snow-wall. She was now to keep a little skin-bag hung up near her into which she must put a little of her food at each meal, having first put it up to her mouth. This is called laying up food for the infant, although none is given to it. For a year from the birth, the mother must eat neither anything raw nor that which has been wounded in the heart. Hall notes that a birth occurring on a journey occasions no delay ; the In- nuits of this locality differing as to this in a marked degree from those further east. The mother is almost as well as ever an hour after the birth. The new-comer nestles at its birth in its took-too bed (its mother's hood), as naked as when born, and it usually remains without clothing for at least two years. It now became very desirable to go down the coast 32 miles southward and bring up the four whale-boats which belonged to Hall and three of the natives, and the stores of the expedition with the medicine-chest and other deposits, in order that an advance might soon be made toward llepulse Ray. A well-known disease, which threatened to sweep off very many of their dogs, having already de- stroyed several, this journey became the more urgent. Accompanied by Ebierbing and five others, with three sledges and twenty dogs, on the ir)th, Ilall crossed the Wager, and, after tracking a bear, ascended the high land to examine the condition of the bay. Two miles down, a heavy black cloud hanging over it extended from shore to shore, showing much ice drifting out with the swift ebb-tide. The journey occupied the traveling hours from seven in the morn- ing of the 13th to 10 a. m. of the following day, some time having been given, however, to the hunt of tooJc-ioo. It had become so light at midnight that no stars were visible. Hall feasted in the if/Joo on : lili ''I '4 Ihl M:- ?f.:ii 174 The Kom-mongs Falling in. (Mny, 1868. the head and brains of a deer ; his companions delighted themselves with the worms found under the skin, A severe gale surprising the party after they had lashed their boats on the sleds to return, they halted, and Hall cooked a large quantity of deer-meat and treated the company to so much ho. punch that they began to utter confused sen- tences, and retired at 8 p. m. On the 16th, Ou-e-la with much tact pushed forward the heavily- loaded sleds, and, although he lost several dogs, at last brought up the boats on the ice of the Wager, launched them for a sail of two hours on its open water, and then again sledded them over to their latest encampment, reaching it at midnight of the 18th. On their route they had visited Ar-lig-ouk-lig, a })lace which has the appearance, on approaching it from the north or west, of an inverted whale-boat. A ^'tablet" was found here, 50 feet in height and 25 feet in width. The place is considered sacred by the Innuits, who made at this time a deposit there, with an address and a solemn farewell. In a crevice 5 J feet from the ice a lead ball was now placed, marked " Hall, 1865." On the crest of a hill, some distance further on, were found six circles of stones which Ou-e-la said were the remains of the tu-piJiS of Innuits long since dead ; and that here they made their stopping-place when passing from Noo-wook to Oo-koo-ish-ee-lik. The rapid advance of the warm season again required a change of residence. The kom-mongs, or half-snow houses, were untenantable by the snow-drippings. When broken down, their remains, mixed up with masses of blubber, broken and uncouth native utensils, and filth, presented a strong contrast to the beautiful arched and solid domes as described by Hall in the previous autumn.* 'Captain Lyon, in his journal kt'iit during Parry's Bocond voyage, 1821-':i3, says of ii lilie swnv, : " I liad several times in my rambles tlirough the world seen huts wliieli I imagined could ; Ii i;ii;ii:ili;' Jiinr, 1863. The Warm Season Approaching. 175 Nu-kcr-zhoo, on leaving his iffloo, took out, according to custom, all his skulls and bones to the ice some distance off. Ebierbing was snow-blind. He had come in from his deer-hunt looking like a pillar of snow and his dogs like small snow-drifts. He had found Ar-mou\s wife Avandering about in the snow, for she had lost the way to her own fn-pik, and could not as yet enter any other. Despite of his woolen mittens, Hall's own fingers now tingled more with cold than they had done during the whole winter, and the change brought to him a sick- ness ; but, like a number of attacks experienced since his first landing, this was but temporary. He was again cheered by letters from Cap- tain Chapel, brought by two natives who had left the ships on the 10th of April. The first five davs in June were in marked contrast with the end of May. The glowing sunsets, which mirrored themselves in the water of the Wager, closed upon hours favorable for observations and for hunting. Hall's boat, the Sylvia, with its stores, was brought across from the south side of the river. By ascertaining with his sex- tant that the ice-foot on the other side, 20 feet in height, subtended an angle of 5', he determined the breadth of the Wager to be two and a half miles. The tu-piks had been again set up on an island called Noo-oot-lik, which forms one of the chain lying close along shore of the river. On this many circles and stone monuments were found. On the 5th, tak- uot bo equaled in ■wretchedness of iippeariinco ; but I was yot to learn that of all inise-- v places on earth a snow village recently deserted is the most gloomy. The huts, when ' d from without, glisten beneath the rays of a, spring suu with a brilliancy which dazzles ai.a ^-ains the eye ; but the contrast Avithiu is therefore the more striking. The roofs melted iuto icicles and coated with smoke ; arches broken and falling from decay ; the snow-seats, Hoors, and parti- tions covered with every kind of liltli and rubbish — bones, broken utensils, and scraps of skins — form altogether the most deplorable picture, while the general air of misery is tenfold aug- mented by the strong glare of ligiit which shoots through tlie hole once occupied by a wiuilow." 176 Nearing the Bay. [June, l8flS. i :: li ^ .1 Wt'\ ing down the tents, transferrin <^ everything to the boats, and rigidly guarding the provisions from the voracious dogs, the company moved forward under sail, ])assing through a narrow channel of one and a half miles in width, and for some hours resting on a bight, found to be entirely free from ice. The opposite southern shore was hugged by an ice-stream sweeping up and down with the tide. The next resting- place was on an old ice-floe about one mile from land, full of fissures and large bergy pieces, on attempting to round which both Hall's and Ar-mou's boats struck hard, but without serious injury. Hall's own boat, the Sylvia, had been twice nearly destroyed — once by his pilot and wife having both fallen asleep while he himself was napping. Ar-moii's equipment was enlivened by the birth of a litter of puppies. While crossing a break in the floe they saw a remarkable stone, called by the Innuits Ye-ar-yu-lik, 30 feet in perpendicular height, and stand- ing alone about a mile from the coast. Ou-e-la said it could not be ascended. On the 8th, a gale, with drifting snow, forced them to seek the shelter of a floe ; but as it was soon broken up, a more secure refuge was hastily sought under the lee of a small island. To Hall's dismay, he found that his A7ard chronometer, which he had sacredly guarded from all jars, had been unwound. Egger's he had wound up. Ward was "dead." (.)n the 10th, pulling at the oars for a half hour and then getting under sail, they made four knots an hour, and at 2 p. m. saw the bold and snow-capped mountains of the north side of Sedla (Southamjjton Island.) Nn-lxr-.zlioo's whale-boat, loaded with men, women, children, dogs, and all manner of truck — his sled across the bow — moved lazily along under mainsail and jib. While Shoo-slic-ark-nooKs son was steer- J ant), 180S.] Encionpment on liepuUe Jlaij. 177 IXXt IT IVOHY COMIt. IXNCIT IIOXK COMK. in <^, his father was searching- the boy's head for Tioo-mil;s for his supper. Upon the floe, Ar-fjoo-moo-too-Iik, who, with his family, had come up by land, was discovered not far off, urging forward his dogs. When the tide turned. Hall's party had hard work at the oars, but at midnight of the 10th they made their first landing on the ice of Repulse Bay. A stream of heavy ice threatened to crush the boat, but by great exertions it was hauled u}) on the floe, which almost immediately broke up. After repeated like severe experiences, the twenty-first encampment was made on the shores of the bay at midnight of the 13th, in lat. 66° 15' N., long. 85° 16' W. Hall thought there was a history in this one day. But this bay, from which he was at some future time to set out for King William's Land, had now been reached. Disheartening it was that the season of that year was too far advanced for sledging, and that for the rest of the month ho was to make here his home. On the 19th he crossed Hura's channel from a landing on the island near Cape Frigid. Ou-e-la spoke of a party of Iwillik Innuits, including ylr-too-a, SJioo-shc-orl--nook, a,nd Sec-gar (0«-e-/fl's father), who, while out walrusing in these waters, were carried oft' on a l)roken floe and landed on Sedla. By watching the first opportunity they got upon another floe, on which they were carried by the tide to Iwillik arriving there in a perishing condition, after eating all their dogs and suffering from extreme cold. S. Ex. 21 lii m I Tl' i i ' 1 ':] i i , M^-:. m I til! . •< It: m III : 'I if \ all ''i^ ii 1, 178 G^awje Plentiful. LJunr, 1809. While Hall was on Southampton Island he took many observa- tions for the determination of the coast line ; he returned with his party to his twenty-first encampment at 8 p. m. of the 22d. The latter part of the month gave him the opportunity of writing up the journals which he designed to send to the United States by the first whalers that should appear in the bay. He took his share in the frequent hunts opened up by the season. Game had steadily inci'eased from the beginning of the moTith. On their sail from the Wager it had been constantly in sight, giving them a number of deer, fourteen partridges, and an ook-gooh shot from Ou-e-lcUs boat; in the middle of the month, when Ar-too-a, See-gar, and Ar-goo-moo-too-Wc, with their three sledges, joined the sailing party on the floe, they reported eleven deer killed on their route; and during the last two weeks of the month, the whole party were in the highest spirits from the very large number of deer, seals, and rabbits that were taken. The young deer were found to have their new horns quite large. The rabbits had now already heralded the approach of sum- mer by changing their white fur for coats of a light brown or slaty hue. As early as the 16th, the first flowers, (the purple saxifrages,) had been seen growing abundantly in patches on the plains. Ou-e-Ms hunting was again successful by his great skill in entic- ing and securing his prizes. Approaching the deer, he worked himself along so stealthily from rock to rock as to escape the animal's closest watch, and, although the crows were noisily affrighting the herd, he quickly killed several. Skinning one in seven minutes, he left the meat for one of his wives to bring in ; and approaching a fawn, he art- fully uttered sounds so successfully imitating its doe. that it ran toward him, giving Hall the opportunity of shooting it and of receiving con- \' n d 11 St -e :e 1- y 3- If St le le 'd I- (•■7- I I ^ :! S IN 1865 -6fi°.-^i ' ;RS 1865-66 i ^j^^uJJi n" ilm,J 'Hi, '- IH I'M!' m !i;i ,^^ ^ ^' — G6°0( I* , IHU3.] Itv fraction. \1\) gratulations on his return to the tupiks. With the assistance of Ebier- bing's hko tact, Hall wounded a deer, which he endeavored to drive or lead in toward his tent; but when the strap of the marine glass was fastened around its head, the untanjed animal reared, kicked, danced, butted, and cut such wild capers that, within a quarter of a mile of home, they were compelled to knock it on the head. Ebierbing, on a visit with some others to Oog-la-ri-your Island, caught twenty-six seals on the same day. Ou-e-la brought in, besides three deer, several pin- tail ducks, with their eggs which were of a greenish cast, but smaller than those of the eider; — of the size of hen-eggs only. On the afternoon of the 26th, from the top of a little hill, Hall observed a remarkable instance of refraction. The mountains of Southampton Island, which are of no great height and their slopes gentle, appeared to be very high and precipitous ; an irregular chain was converted into a huge plateau. A descent of even 5 feet from his position made the mountains appear nearly natural; one of 10 feet entirely so. In his excursions he met with two specimens only of iron ore resting on primitive rock. On the 1st day of July he moved a short distance to the Island of Oog-la-ri-your, where the larger number of his Innuit friends had already encamped for more conveniently hunting the seal. On remov- ing their tupiks, the blubber which had been saved was stored away in seal-skin '^ drugs" and deposited in a cache for winter use. When making these bags they took off the skin from the animal unbroken except by a small opening about the head, and when this cut was made, a knife was thrust in longitudinally and used freelj^ until the blubber was completely separated from the skin; the fore flipper was jointed. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ /. //^.-^^^-^ v..V^ 1.0 1.1 12.8 ISO ■2.5 2.2 I: 1^ 1^ 12.0 im >-25 1 1.4 1 1.6 ^ 6" ► */] ^;; ^^!^v /I '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. US80 (716) 872-4503 40^ \ \\ U. rv l^X'^o^ "^Ji^ HI ' --T" ■ .™ .'. .-pT'_"^,^''^:^*~ r "'.'WtT \-fTT'nr''"rf W» •-'.<'■ J" ».TC', *TC'*w. .^^^ '.'Vti*J ■^'^^TrF^T 87°00 86*00' SS'OO 66*30 ^Teriiiiiiatiou M'. 66*00 BOAT JOURNEYS IN 1865 WINTER QUARTERS 1865-66 -66°3C -66°0( 87°00' 86''00 85 00 Drawrv by A .Ltn,cienkxihL Il /'if 11 Iff i'll l"^ ^1 p 'Ji 11 180 Too-koo-li-too III. [Sm\j, 1869. The seal was then worked out by the hole made at the head. If any small rent had been accidentally made, it was carefully sewed up before filling-. Just before their removal to Oog-la-ri-yoin*, the natives had been suffering from very severe colds and pains in the chest ; some had entirely lost their voices. Hall's medicines had been in frequent requisition, particularly for the relief of Shoo-she-ark-nook, now saved a second time from dying; but he believed that the improvement in their habits of living which he had induced the natives to make, had yet more to do with his success as a practitioner. His own health was again gen- erally good. On the top of this island of Ooglariyour Avere the remains of the merry Ivit-chuk of Dr. Rae's party, and those of his wife. Ou-e-la told Hall that at one time very many Innuits lived there, but nearly all had died off. He was detained at this twenty-second encampment, lat. 66° 19', long. 85° 23', throughout the whole month and until the 7th of August, by the severe illness of Too-koo-li-too from an attack of pneumonia. His notes on one of the days of her illness are : " Her symptoms are of the most ?erious character. She raises blood direct from her lungs. I feel that I have neglected to teach these children of the North their religious duties. Indeed, I feel that I need myself a teacher, and I am brought to know that I need a new heart. O, may I learn from the glorious Bible my duty, and by the help of God per- form it." He much interested her by reading from the scripture his- tory, especially that of Joseph, which story she in turn went over again to her husband. Hannah was still under the influence of super- stition. It required a long and patient reasoning to convince her when sick that she could eat anything which Ou-e-la brought in, for the J air, 1 863. Mode of Cuttirifi up the Onk-gooh. 181 natives liad told lier something was wrong at his birth. She was at times persuaded to drink the soup out of which Hall was accustomed to eat some of Ou-e-Ia^s took-too meat. The natives were industriously occupied in boat and sledge jour- neys, securing a large amount of game for their subsistence through the coming winter. By the close of the month, the footing up showed twelve seals, nine ook-gooks, thirty-seven deer, and a bear, besides four ducks and thirty-eight eggs. Hall's advice secured this increase, as well as the preservation of the well-dried meat in druffs of oil, in which it would keep sweet and fresh and already " buttered." He witnessed the mode of cutting up ook-gook and preparing from its skin the lines for securing the walrus, as well as for sledge tracings and lashings. From an ook-gook 9 feet in length the skin was cut into strips, and then stretched by block and tackle between the rocks When suffi- ciently dried, the strips were made soft and pliable by rubbing and chewing. The land of civilization, he saj^s, has notlnng equaling these lines in strength and endurance of wear and tear. In the divis- ion made in cutting up the animal, a woman received an equal share with each of the men. The ice on the coast still remaining hummocky, it was very difficult to get a heavy ook-gook u])on the island ; yet, if the carcass was insufficiently covered with snow, ice, or deer-skins, the burning rays of the sun in a few moments destroyed the skin ; or if the bear made its ready visit, it struck its huge claws through the tough coat, completely riddling it and tearing out the meat and blubber. On the 22d, Hall visited the whaler Black Eagle, on board of which he had an opportunity of comparing and rating his chronome- ters. 'I'he first whaler of the season had been sighted on the ir)th by 182 Whalers in Sight [Mm\j, 1865. I Ou-e-Ia, who had instantly harnessed up his dogs and hastened off to inform Hall. On Nu-ker-zhod's coming in to confirm the report, he was directed to bring the longest pole he could find to the top of the island and fasten on it one of the American flags as a signal. At thirty minutes past midnight, with some little difficulty on account of the fog, the vessel was descried a little to the westward of Cape Frigid. The sight was sufficiently exciting and joyous to Hall to keep all sleep from him. He sent Ou-e-la to occupy his own tooh-too bed, while he went again and again to the crest of the island to watch the vessel and the movements of the ice ; and he was very soon able to make out a second visitor traversing the Welcome from east to west, and then returning on the opposite tack. He hoped to find that these were the Antelope and the schooner Helen F., which had been winter- ing at Depot Island and Marble Island ; for he remembered that Cap- tain Chapel had advised him that these vessels, as soon as released from the ice, would cruise for whales in Repulse Bay. He was par- ticularly anxious to discover some lead in the pack through which the Sylvia might be pulled by the strong arms of the Innuits to the ships, as he expected they would have on board a team of dogs for him, the captains having promised to bring all the dogs, which would be of no further use to them after the spring whaling was finished. They had been chiefly useful in sledging the blubber over the floe which lay between the ships and the open water. From any attempt to go out to his visitors when first sighted he had been entirely held back by a storm breaking over the island. In describing this, he says : Yesterday morning, the sky was overcast and gloomy, the weather looking threatening as if a storm would soon be npon ns ; and, besides, at 10.30 a. m. of 4 Jnir, I86S.] The Storm. 183 tlio 14tli, a thick fog, the first of the kind that 1 remember has occurred this season, commenced rising over the open water southward, and by 11 a. m. it was driven hero by a southeast wind, enveloping the ishmd iu it. The succeeding morning,tlie fog was again over the open water and over the ice of Repulse Bay, tlie wind still southeast and south-southeast. From the morning of the l.'3th the barometer began to fall, standing then 30 1^^ inches; it gradually continued fall- ing to Saturday morning, the IGth, from which time to evening it dropped down three-tenths of an inch. In connection with all this, I may mention what some might consider a trifle ; nevertheless it shall have a place here. A small pool or reservoir of fresh water is close by the tupik, mostly on solid rock, but one side of it consists of moss and grass growing over cobblestones. Now, this pool rises and falls quite as regularly as the tide, thougli oidy about one-half as often. During the night the water of this reservoir falls, and from morning to evening it rises. The rise and fall seems to be quite uniform in height one day after another. Last night this water was nearly exhausted. Indeed, when I saw it just before the thunder-storm I was greatly surprised to find it so. This with other indications told unmistakablythat something unusual was about to transpire in nature's elements. At 2.30 a. m. the first thunder-clap that I have ercr heard in the northern regions occurred, the same being preceded by sharp lightning. A little while after, loud thunder pealed forth here, there, everywhere around Eepulse Bay, especially away in the direction of Gibson's Cove, the extreme northwestern part of Repulse Bay, where were such jiiles of heavy black clouds — Heaven's electric batterj- — and such a continuous roar of thunder therefrom that I could not help thinking of the Almighty hand which holds the elements. The storm ended at 4.20 a. m. Ar-mou told Hall he had seen ou-mer, (lightning,) twice at Ig- loo-lik. His people never knew it to kill an Innuit. To-koo-li-too said in her country it struck red dogs ; so they always killed such when puppies. The old woman E-vit-shung gave a specimen of her treatment of her own dogs, which was amusing though severe. She found them one day asleep when tied up to the rocks, as was often neces- sary to prevent their cutting with their teeth into the oil-drugs and meat ; a valuable drug had just been almost entirely ruined. This, 1S4 Stnnhif) the Thffs. IJaIr, IN6.1. Ill' 1. !;■ !-■ ;■ '1 1' liowovor, was not tlio cause of E-vit-shunffs fearful poundiiij:^. When she arrived wliei'e some of the dogs were constantly kept fast to the rocks by long thongs, she stopped and connnenced pelting one of the largest with stones. Every time she made a throw, she s[)oke to the dog as though he could comprehend Iimuit speech. What she did say amounted simply to this : " lltMT, you are, old do};, and all the rest of you, sleeping and basking in tlio hot sun's rays all day, and at night wide awake, howling, biuking, and erying, keeping nie an«l all others about from getting any (piiet sleep ; and now, old lel- h)w, I am giving you these stones for pay. As for the rest of you brutes, I will give you some another time." Her throws were of some aeeount so far as this goes. She hit every time, and made the dog ery wofuUy. Each time she jiiekcMl nj) a stone and held it in her hand, the dog watched her closely. Several false-throw motions Mere tirst made by the old woman, and when the dog ceased dodging, out would tly the huge st(aie from her hand, hitting him on the head, nos<', or other l)art8 of the body. I\Iy laughing so heartily was from the business-like manner in wliich the <»ld lady addressed the dog during the severe castigiUion she was administering to it. If E-rifiihmui can whip Innuit dogs a hmg time after they have done their evil work and make them understand just what their chas- tisement is for, then either she has a sui)ernatural ])ower, or the Iiuuiit dogs are intelligent beings, moral agents, so to call them. The old woman had been doing better service in the early })art of the day by bringing word to Hall of the hloivhif/ of a whale, which she and her companion in the tupih- had heard. Hall says that the dogs are both a blessing and a curse; — almost constantly in mischief, opening seal-blubber drugs, howling all night, andofttimes stealing into tents and abstracting meat, eating harness and walrus-lines. There is no end to the damage these brutes are all the time surreptitiously doing. But, on the other hand, in winter which includes about three-fourths of the year, they are of such value as draught animals, and as bear, nuisk-ox, and seal-dogs, that, with all their Iti :lll AaRBM, INAS.I Thr I'jndurnnro of the Ksk'inio I>off. 185 depredations, on no consideration could tlie Iiinuits do without tliein. The severity with wliicli tliey treat these friends has been more than once noted. Ar-moii and Oii-c-la heat several of them to death with an oar, and at one time with a hatchet. Their tenacity of life apj)ears ICSKI.MO DOG. [From a pliotojji'iipli "f Captain Chapel's.] plainly in the mid.st of their sufferings when drawing such heavy loads while half famished, and in their endurance of unmerciful poundings. A case is cited, too, in which an animal pierced with several ritie- balls recovered his full strengtli, although sick when sliot. On the 6th of this month, scarcely any ice was to be seen in Mid- dleton's Frozen Strait, the Welcome, or Repulse Bay. Hall thought 186 Death of Shoo-she- ark-nook. [Angaal, 1865. i: ;ii I' the teitn Frozen Strait a misnomer, being infonned that it is never entirely closed. Refraction was much less marked than any which he had observed for many weeks past. The nights growing dark, he could no longer write up his notes in the tupik at midnight. Mosquitoes, which had first showed themselves July 10, were now filling the air; the number caught in the fresh paint which Nti-ker-zhoo had put upon his boat was beyond compitation. The water-supply was renewed from a pool on the surface of an ice-floe near the island. The pai'ty who procured this could have secured a whale lying a little distance off*, with his back out of the water, if their weapons had been at hand. Two other whales were seen by others the same day. Ou-e-la, who had made an encampment about five miles to the north, for better salmon fishing, was espied by Ar-mou coming down under sail, and on landing proceeded directly to Hall's tupik to inform him of the death of his much-beloved brother, Shoo-she-ark-nook. He received Hall's warmest sympathy, which he well knew he had reason to expect from the experience of a visit during a late serious accident in his family. His eldest son had fractured his skull by a fall upon the rocks among the hummocks, and although Ou-e-la had healed the fracture by applying the powerful suction of his mouth to bring the pieces together, he came to his old friend to tell him of the accident and its effect upon his wife in her peculiar situation. He now brought sad news. "Strange customs have these Innuits. Neither Ou-e-la nor his brother Ar-too-a will now smoke, though they both are great smokers. They retain upon their heads the usual covering from morning till night. This covering at any other time, and especially when entering a tiipik^ is thrown back, leaving the head bare. To this head-covering \ U :■ B 1 i^ '1: Ansnal, IDO.I. Encampment on JIaviland Bay. 187 the skin find feathers of a pce-tu-hirk's head were fastened, and a feather of the same water-fowl to each arm, just above the elbow. Ou-c-la and each of the male relatives of Shoo-shc-ark-nook have ta belt around the waist. Then, besides, they constantly wear mittens. On offering" Ou-c-la some coffee, bread, and venison, he declined takinjj any, because ho must have food cooked for himself separate from others during the terai of mourning." On the 7th, Hall with his party removed to the west side of Ilavi- land Bay, making the passage in a rain-storm in just five hoars — 2 J to 'ii knots per hour — on a northwest course across the mouth of \]\e bay. The storm had begun from the southeast on the night previous to vheir setting out from the twenty-second encampment ; but the weather clear- ing during the day, the party had embarked on four boats; the Sylvia and the Lady Franklin, with the boats of Ou-e-la and Nu-her-zhoo. All were well laden with drugs of seal-blubber, sledges, dogs, men, women, and children, and the usual Innuit chattels. A breeze from the north- east favored them on a part of the voyage, but torrents of rain fell, and the greatest care was taken by all the party of Too-koo- li-too, who had been so long an invalid. The landing was made with ease at low tide, but to find a suitable place for the tupilis was diffi- cult, as the rocks were everywhere dished, had pools in every excava- tion, and were sending down streams of water in every direction. The Innuits who had preceded Hall in removing from Oo-glari-your Island occupying the only available dry spot, he was obliged to take the most convenient one above high-water mark. At midnight the tupiks were completed, and the party comfortably housed at this new encampment, hit. QQ"" 31' N., long. 85° 50' W. 188 A Womau An qc-ko (Jursfion'nff/ ^\S'nhicif." lAwfii.i. isea. i 1 mW : 1 " -'f «^ In the interval ot" ii clear sky on their journey, two vosselH had been again sifj^hted at a di.stanc'o to the Honthward; but indihtinctly through the mist. Not evt^n their masts would have been above the horizon, if refraction liad not brought thenj uj» and their dujjlicates also; each vessel, from the water-line aljout it to the truck being matched by its complete image inverted, hulk to hulk, and all sus- pended in the clouds above the sea horizon. The day following, the two ships, the lilack Eagle and the Ansel Gibbs, again appeared, beating up Repulse Bay. They anchored near an island to the south- west. Ebierbing and Ou-e-la had volunteered at a late hour of the night previous to go out to these ships in the offing. The wind fresh- ening to a gale, Ou-e-la, more cautious than Ebierbing, soon returned; but the latter, after causing Hall nmch anxiety for many hours, still remained out of sight. As he had with him in the Sylvia Nu-her- zhoo, ()un(/-oo-choo, and Tuk-too, their old mother, E-vit-shmig who felt that all her earthl)' treasures were in danger, invested herself with the office of an an-ge-ko; and after liaving by the dawn of day satisfied herself by the answers of " Sidney," that although the Sylvia could not reach the ships, it would come back safe, she had relieved the minds of the other Innuits. In her comnuining with the spirit, she had been throwing her left hand continually around, giving a twisting motion to the thong wliich she had tied to a heavy stone, and "Sidney's" answers had come to her by his increasing or diminishing the weight of this stone. When the party returned, they reported that they had made a landing until the storm subsided, and having their fire-arms with them had made a successful took-too hunt. Before their arrival several boats' crews put off from the ships to visit Hall, for whom they had beea looking when passing Oo-gla-ri- «■■■■!, IN«S. A Vifiit from the Black Einjle. 181) your Island. Ho records with much feeling the emotions wliicli ho experienced when the mate of the lihick Eajrlo leaped ashore from the first boat and hailed him with the news, " 'I'he war is ended ! ))Ut our ['resident is assassinated." *' This thunderbolt transfixed me to the spot ; that the war was ended was what I liad fondly anticipated I would learn ; but who of my worthy countrymen would be pre- j)ared for such news — ' Our l*resident is assassinated.' " This with many other items of an interest fully to be appreciated by one so lonj^ shut out from the civilized world, was afterward plac;ed in full before him in the files of New York and Boston papers which had been received by the whalers from the Daniel Webster at Marble Island. The best feeling continued to jjrevail between Hall and the cap- tains of the two whalers during their stay. On his visits to their ships, he informed them of the places in which a number of bla(!k whales had been seen fcy himself and by the Innuits, who had also seen many white whales (^Delphimis AlMcans), which were small. As to the color of these, the natives said that it was tlie young ones but two or three years old which retain the walrus or brown hue ; the old ones (kil-lee-lu-yers) are white. He regretted that the other whalers did not come up into the bay to share in the partial success of the Ansel Gibbs and the Black Eagle. Being informed on the 20th that they did not design to winter here and thought it best not to risk any fur- ther detention, he spent a whole night on board one of the ships writ- ing up his journals and dispatches to friends at home. The letters of Captain Kilmer written at this time show his deep interest in the friend whom he was leaving, and gave practical proof of it by advising him of a deposit of provisions and stores made for him on shore. Hall notes Ou-e-la^s honesty in keeping for him a num- 1^ 190 IlaWs Crew Capture a Whale. TAagnsI, 186S. II: ber of small articles also entrusted to his care by the captain ; he had stimulated the natives to secure for the snips as many deer as possi- ble. The two vessels left the bay on the 21st. Their crews had secured a number of whales — eight on the 15th and 16th — the oil and bono of which Hall estimated to be worth $25,000. 'i m The first opportunity now offered itself for the successful issue of one of the important elements in the original plan presented to the friends of the expedition in New York in 1862 — the capture of Avhales which would repay in part the advances made for the outfit. After a number of cruises in the boats without being able to come quite within striking distance, on the 30th he was congratulated by all his Innuit friends for the success of the day. With his party of men and boys he left the tupiks at 4 a. m., to hunt a whaie which had been for some time previous blowing around. The Sylvia and the Lady Franklin gave swift chase to the westward, but, after an hour's cruise, during which the whale made several risings, they were un- able to get close enough, although they came almost upon it when rowing from an opposite direction around an islet A second whnlo was, however, almost immediately seen half a mile to the south- west, when the sails were quickly set and paddles and oars vigor- ously plied by the crews of both boats, ** each of which ran down the leg of a V, the whale at its joining point." Ou-e-la, from the bow of the Lady Franklin which reached the goal a few seconds before the Sylvia, threw a whale's harpoon to which was attached a line of 20 fathoms, having at its end two drugs (floats). One of these was the forward part of an ook-gook skin, the covering of the h- \d and flippers being as entire as when upon the living animal, with the , i:, Aagast, 18«5.] The Whale Cached. 191 exception of the transverse seam ; the other was the entire skin of a neit-yuk. Both were filled with air compressed by the stout lungs of an Innuit. Their double objec'- Avas to indicate where the whale was and to tire it down. When Ou-e-Ms iron struck into the back of the whale, it gave one slap of its flukes and went below the white seeth- ing waters, at first disappointing Hall, who thought it was now lost. He had furnished Ou-e-la on setting out with a full length of line, and was not acquainted with this Innuit use of floats.* But while the boats lay to, watching for a re-appearance, the drugs were seen far out in the bay flying over the waters, though with decreasing speed, and on the whale's again coming up to blow, it received a harpoon from iV«- ker-zhoo at the bow of the Sylvia, and Ou-e-la's iron drew. The whale again turned flukes for soundings, taking out with him half of the Syl- via's whale-line ; it then immediately struck seaward, dragging the boat through the water with great speed. On its coming up and blow- ing, Ou-e-la lanced it from the Lady Franklin. It died within one hour from the first attack. The anchor was dropped from the Sylvia, the corners of the whale's flukes were cut ofl^, its mouth tied up, and the fins taken one into each boat. The towing of the animal to a floe was made with slow progress against head tide, but at 1 p. m. the prize was taken into a small cove near the tupiks. Hall had breakfasted on raw muk-tuk as soon as the whale was killed. The Innuits, though equally fond of the skin, could not join him, because they had already eaten took-too; in obe- * Captain Ross, in his Narrative (1818), describes the native harpooning wituesseil by biui in the Greenland Seas: " The harpoon has a barb about 3 inches long, and a line attached to it of about 5 fathoDis in length, the other end of which is fastened to a buoy of a seal's skin nindo iitto a bag and iuHated. The blade is fixed on the end of a shaft in such a manner that it may bo disen- gaged from the handle after it is fixed in the animal, and the shaft is then pulled back by a lino tied to it for the purpose. When the animal is struck, ho carries down with him the scal-skiu buoy, which fatigues him. As ho must come up to respire, he is followed up and killed by spears." I I IP 192 Winter Quarters Made at liae\s Fort Hojw. (i*«-pt*mb«r, ises. dience to a like superstitious idea, three days must elaps6 after the capture of the wliale before any work couhl be done. On the day following, the carcass was cut up and cached amid scenes of feasting. Fifteen hundred pounds of the bone, designed by Hall for the benefit of his expedition, were securely de})Osited to be available on the return of the whalers to the bay in the following fall. The amount of game secured during the month was very small. The Innuits thought that the deer had been frightened off by the smell of the trying out (boiling the oil from) the blubber on the whalers before they sailed. A much greater amoimt of rain had fallen than Hall had expe- rienced at any like period during his first expedition. The natives said that it was very unusual, accounting for it by the fact that during the winter there had been little snow, and but few fogs in the spring, and that these heavy and continuous showers were now making up the deficiency in moisture. The general movement of the ice under the influence of the tides, winds, and currents, was from Frozen Strait and Hurd's Channel up Renulse Bay, and thence south and out through the Welcome. At times the bay itself was entirely filled with ice ; sometimes the straits were blocked ; occasionally both the bay and its entrances were free. iff m i '• i i ; 't. On the 4th of September, Hall made his twenty-sixth encamp- ment, on the banks of North Pole River, near the Fort Hope of Dr. Rae. This was to be his winter quartei's, in which he would prepare for his sledge journey next season to the west. From this point, also, he would make a survey of the bay, his observations of the coast line already made having satisfied him that an im})rovement of the charts Heptenb«r, I86S. Bocks and Dihris on the Ice. 193 could be made for the whalers. Steadfast in the purpose to succeed in the several objects of his voyage, he had declined to accept offers from the whalers of a passage home. When he now set up his ta-plli the glories of a beautiful sunset were changing the Arctic hues of the landscape into tropical warm coloring, and filling the grayish, cool atmosphere with an unnatural brilliancy. HALL'S NOTES ON FINDING ROCKS AND DEBRIS ON THE ICE. The journal of the 25th of July contains the following items of interest to the scientist : This evening I have taken a walk among the grounded bergy pieces of ice that are near the west side of this island, and also on to the heavy masses of ice that are high and dry on the rocks on the northwest side. Spring-tides at tliis season of the year open a book that any Arctic traveler delights to read and stndy. The special part of this boolv of nature that 1 am at present reading, relates to stones, I'ocks, and sand found on the ice. The question among Arctic navigators lias been, " How came these here?" Parry, when on his second voyage for the discovery of the Northwest Passage, met with nnich ice in the neighborhood of Southampton Island, on the surface of which he saw a surprising quantity of stone, sand, shells, and weed; and respecting these ho makes the following re- marks in his Xfivrativc of said voyage, pages 32 and 33. "While on this subject, I may offer a few remarks respecting the stone, sard, shells, and weed found upon the siu-face of all ice in this neighborhood. The quantity in which these substances have occurred was really surprising, and puzzled us extremely to account for the manner iu which they found then' way upon the floe. This circumstance has been generally explained by simply at- tributing it to the whole floe having been in immediate contact with the land, enabling the streams to wash, or the winds to blow these substances into the sit- uation in which they are found, in the same manner as they are deposited on bergs found on the shore. But to those who have been eye-witnesses of the fact to the extent in which it here occurred, this mode of explaining it, however plausi- ble at first sight, is by no means satisfactoxy ; for masses of rock, not less than a hundred pounds in weight, are sometimes observed in the middlo of a floe meas- S. Ex. 27- -13 194 Rochs and Debris on the Ice. i li' I urins half a mile or more each way, and of which the whole surface is more or less covered with smaller stoues, »and, and shells. To supi)osc the wind strong enough to blow these substances such a distance would be absurd ; nor is the supposition of their having been washed there scarcely more probable, for as a floe ot ice must float considerably above the surface of the sea, it is not easy to conceive how it can be overflowed, and much less how heavy stones can be car- ried lialf a mile along it. It has been suggested that the floe may be held down by its firm cementation to the shore while the water from the land above it rushes iu a torrent along its upper surface. This, however, is contrary to expe- rience, which shows that long before the streams on the land are sufficient to effect this, the ice next the shore is completely thawed and detached from the beach, and, therefore, at liberty to float in the natural way. The only explana- tion of this fact that I can suggest is, that, as it is generally found to be the case to the greatest extent upon the 'hummocky' floes, the substances may have been deposited upon each mass of ice when separate, and eventuallj'^ brought into the middle of a large floe by the process detailed abovr. This explanation, how- ever, goes but a little way toward clearing up the difficulty ; for, besides the necessity of supposing, in this case, that each mass of ice has in its turn been brought into close contact with the shore, we have never seen an instance iu any bay or harbor where ice so brought, even under the most favorable circum- stances, has received any such deposit. In whatever manner it may be eftected, it is certain that these substances act an essential part in the dissolution of the ice, as even the smallest stone or collection of sand may always be observed to have formed a pool of water around it in consequence of the radiation of heat from its surface." It will be seen nearly at the commencement of these remarks of Parry, that he says : "The quantity in which these substances have occurred was really sur- prising, and puzzled us extremely to account for the manner in which they found their way upon the floes." The same subject has puzzled many a man, but I am confident the fact is as follows: The stones, sand, shells, and weeds are not deposited upon the surface of the ice; they simply are seen or appear there, as tlie ice evaporates or wastes away, which it eventually does more rapidly, of course, as warm weather comes on. These stones and other substances are picked up from the bottoiij of shallow waters by the ice resting awhile tipou them and becoming cemented to them by the fingers of King Cold during low tide; and when tlie flood makes, up goes ice with its ponderous pickings. But, to begin at lli ill Rocks and DSbris on the Ice. 195 the beginning, cold weather comes on ; the waters become cold, and, growing colder as winter advances, ice forms; tbe tides all tbe time never forgetting their regu- lar order of flood and ebb. As the spring tides come on, during their ebb, in many shallow parts of L idson's Bay, sheets of ice re»c upon rocks, stones, shells, and weeds. These sheets of ice, as they lie, send down showers upon the already moist bottom, all of which conglaciate at once into a solid uuss by the piercing, pinching cold of the north. Kocks and stones, shells and weed, sheets of ice, and what was tiickling water become one solid body. The tide now floods and lifts the floe, having on its nether surface a ponderous load of earthy matter. Before another ebb, King Cold has succeeded in adding several inches of ice under- neath the structure of rocks, stones, land, shells, and weeds, which are now com- pletely enveloped in crystal. Ebb and flood succeed each other, and as often add a stone or other foreign matter, and then another stratum of ice to the floe or smaller pieces of ice that during certain intervals are afloat or aground. I will now proceed to give some proof of all this I have stated. Three winters I have spent in the northern regions, two of them in the locality of Frobisher Bay. Many times have I seen in the springs succeeding these winters, stones, sand, shells, and weeds on the top of bay-ice, or such ice as had been formed on shallow waters. As warm weather advanced and the ice wasted away, more and more of these substances would appear. My attention was more particularly directed to this subject during my search on my voyage of 1860-'C2 for one of the relics of Frobisher in the Countess of Warwick's Sound, on the north side of Frobisher Bay. The natives had told me where one of their people had thrown an anvil, some five years before, from a rock by the bold shore of Oo-pung-ne-wiug Island into the sea. They were (juito sure I could find this relic on the disruption and drift- ing away of the ice in the summer, providing I would be at the above-named island at some low spring-tide. Corresponding to their advice, I visited the island in the summer of 18G2, and at low tide the rock bottom all about the place indicated from whence the anvil had been thrown, was just above water; but no anvil could be found ; indeed, not a loose stone was thereabout. The shore-ice had licked u]) everything movable, not leaving even so valuable a relic as the one sought, three centuries old. The manner in which this relic was lost to the world any one can judge on reading what I have now written. The shore-ice having enveloped the anvil in its crystal walls during the winter season, on its being free from laud in the succeeding summer, drifted away with what would have been to me a valuable treasure. Had that piece of shore-ice been seen by 196 Rocks and Bdhris on the Ice. li': some one at some particular time afterward, while it was wasting away, driltiug aud stragfiliiig about, no doubt but tJie anvil wovdd have appeared as though deposited on it. I conic now down to the present time, to what can now be seen on and near the shore of this island. The present spring-tides have opened a rich lield for study. They have by their \\onderl'ul action shown me how qtii(tkly they can transform the "thrice-ribbed ice" into dancing sparkhng waters; how qiuckly th.ey can tear away and destroy mountaia barriers of ice, gi\ing free waters for ships to sail in. These spiing-tides have just been ripping uj) huge masses of ice lining the shores, and such ice as the winter's cold formed over the shallow waters near to the island on its western side. Could Parry and others who were puzzled extremely to account for the manner in which stones, sand, shells, and weed found their way upon the floe, but have seen what I have wit- nessed this evening, they would no longer have had any question about the nuitter. There is one mass of ice lying within a couple of stone-throws of my tujnl; which is some G feet in thickness and ."50 by 100 feet square. The ebbing tide has left one corner of this resting on another piece equally thick, which lies du-ectlv fl;it on the rocky bottom that is now bare from low tide. The position of this piece of ice, with its corner thus restiug on another piece, is on an incline, showing its top, sides, aud bottom mosL favorably. The whole mass consists of strata of stones, ocks, and sand and ice, the strata running i)arallel with the top and bottom of thi& fi'oztn masss. From the top of this piece, stones are i)eeriug out. Kear one end is a rock of 150 ])ounds weight, or more, nearly denuded of ice. As can be seen at the .sidt s and ends, irregular thicknesses of layers of stones and sand occur. The upper i)art of this ice is much freer of those substances than the lower half. Comparatively, hut few stones and small collections of sand are in the upper portion, while the beds below consist of an astonishing quantity. Indeed, the bottom is a stratum of nothing but rocks, stone, and sand that arc glued together by invisible ice. Just above this bottom layer is a sheet of six inches in thickness of sea-ice, and then a little higher up, conies another layer of rocks, stones, and sand, following which is clear Ice again, I should judge that at least two or three tons of earthy matter is frozen into that one piece of ice that I have just described. l>ut this piece of ice is only one of the many that are now to be seen lying around on the rocks left bare by the ebb-tide. Some have only a few stones upon and in them. This feature is, however, plainly to be seen in nearly all, that the stones and ice are in strata. During the day much ice has Rocks and Bthris on the Ice. \n been drifting along by this island, and every now and then pieces of ice bore npon their surface stones and rocks fully exposed. As the waves lifted tlieni uj), rock- ing theiu to and fro, exposing one side or one end of each of these, strata of stones were to b." seen. These masses of ice had been disengaged from a belt of hum- nuicky tloe that was a part of the lixed ice during the past winter in Haviland Bay. IIow these masses of ice charged with earthy matter get into the midst of a lixed floe overlying deep water is easily accounted for. A cold summer per- haps succeeds the winter, and before this ice is dissolved, another winter sets in and fastens it firmly in the midst of a new floe, or surrounds it with old hum- raocky ice; all of which becomes comented together by the advancing cold, freez- ing weather. * * * I must notice here what Parry says relative to the comparative times of the dissolution of the shore-ice and water rushing in torrents) from the land in these northern regions : " It has been suggested that the floe may be held dowu by its firm cementation to the shore while the water from the land above it rushes in a torrent along its upper surface. This, however, is contrary to ex- perience, which shows that long before the streams on the land are sutticieut to eft'ect this, the ice next the shore is completely thawed and detached from the beach, and, therefore, at liberty to float in the natural way." If I understand Parry rightly he means this : that, from his experience, long before the snows on the land of this northern country melt — causing streams, some of which rush in torrents — the ice next the shore completely thaws and becomes detached from the beach. Now, my experience is directly the reverse of this; that is to say, from what I have seen, long before the ice next the shore thaws and becomes detached from the beach, the snows on the land melt, causing streams — indeed, some, rivers — some of these streams and rivers rushing torrent-like down the mountain- sides and thence over the ice belting the shore, and over the ice covering the waters of many bays, coves, and inlets. At the present time, wherever I look, the land is almost completely denuded of snow, and has been so for weeks, while the shores of the mainland and of the islands are in many places still belted with the " ice-foot," as Dr. Kane termed the ice next the land. Until now, Eepulse Bay has been covered over, mostly with its fixed ice of last winter's formation, and this while many of the rushing torrents have long since dried up, their source — the melting snows — having disappeared. Wherever these streams run for a considerable time over the fixed floes, they cut their way — "If "Tv ■ 'i^'PfP-liilT i^ 198 Rocks and Debris on the Ice. l' a camil — coiiii)lfctely tlirougii. Often in passing over the ice have I been checked in my course from meeting tJiese winding, river-like channels in the ice, being un- able to lea[) thorn, and obliged to make to the maiidand that I might renew my course again. It is truly a wonder to me that PaiTy's experience was such as he has recorded. From what I have just written, no one mil suppose that I wish to make torrents an«l more quiet streams from the land the means by which stones, sand, and shells, and weeds get upon or into the ice-lloe, though I may say that occasionally such is the fiuit. B mi: i;.i i' :. p HAPTER yji' A SECOND WINTER LIFE— PREPARATIONS FOR THE FIRST SLEDGE JOURNEY ^rO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. SEPTEMBER, 11165. TO APIUL, 1«GG. '!'■ r C n A P T E 11 V 1 T . Plans fok a hi.kdok jouhnky in tiik srniNCi — Sepauation fuom tiik Innitits— Kiiikiuiing, TOO-KOO-M-TOO, AND AU-MOU's FAMILY ItKMAIN WITH HaI.I,— lIlM INTKltKST IN TIU: DICEIl- iiUNT.s— Daxokk to lii'e ExrKHiENCKD— An auijoua dksihiuei) uy Hau, a8 seen rilOM Ills IIED on TIIF hocks — LaKGE NUMHEn OF DEEU SLAIN— HaI-L'S UEINDEEU Dlil'OSITS — Seveke gale— Too-Koo-Li-roo's hememhisance of the Hiiooklyn ladies wisiiino heu TO DKESS LIKE CIVILIZED PEOPLE — KXPOSUHES ON VISITING THE DEPOSITS — FaILCHE TO CATCH SALMON— Hall's daily siusistence- He prf.pakes skin gahments— Removal to Now-YAiiN— News of the duowxing of Au-too-a — Feasts and asiusemests at Xow- YAiiN — Visit to Oo-ula-ki-y^ouk Island — Tuouhles with the natives— Reconcilia- tion AND encouragements- Temperatuise of the winter months — Frequent au- roras — Readiness for a li-ORWARo move to King William's Land. The experience of the first Arctic year has been detailed, and its journals have given an insight into the daily life to which one avus necessai'ily subjected who looked forward to the accomplishment of a " mission " through assistance furnished by the Eskimos. The details of a second winter life among the same people would not be profitably presented in the cases in which almost identically like experiences were passed through. This chapter, therefore, will offer but the thread of Hall's occupations during this ])eriod, with a recital of such occur- rences as were new to him from his changed location, partial isolation from the larger number of his Innuit friends, and necessary self- dependence for subsistence and for a preparation to renew his advance mtnk 202 JlnU Ifurithiff flir Jhcr. INrplrmbrr, INfl.1. wm toward Kiii;^ VVilliiim'H Liiiid. His phiiiH for tho iioxt yoar Involved the Hecuring of the coiitinuod friendHhip of the IniiiiitH, uiul the Htor- iiiff of Hiifticient ])rc visions for n long sledge joiwney, as well a.s for maintaining life through the approaching winter. The larger ])art of the tribe now located themselves in placM^s at some distance from him ; ut first, going oflF to the lakes above North l*ole River to hunt, and, after their return, living nearly all the rest of the season at the point named on the map (page 211) as Now-yarn Harbor. JJetween this and Fort Hope visits were at times exchanged, and, during the two mid-winter months Hall lived with the natives at Now-yarn. Ebierbing and ']'oo-koo-li-too, from the first, I'emnined close b}' him, and for the sake of the latter who exjiected to give birth to a child, Ar-niou\s family by the consent of the chief, Oii-c-la, re- mained for some time at Fort Hoj)e. For the same reason, chiefly. Hall himself did not accompany the party to the lakes. He soon became deeply interested in the deer-hunts, making himself a good marksman, and being rewarded with a large success. During the month of September, and until the migrations of the deer ceased in the month following, his notes are full of wearisome ])ursuits, made almost daily over the rough hills and the hummocks of th«} sea-ice The record of one of these hunts is this : Leaving his hut with Ebierbing at 8 a. m. of September 10, at midday, when three miles north of their home, they first saw a band of seventeen deer one of which Hall succeeded in killing. Making a, deposit of this, and traveling two miles further, they sighted two others wlii(!h were rest- ing (»n the plain The hunters cautiously concealed themselves behind the rocks, and when the animals had come near to them, brows- Hrplmbrr. INtfA. ( 'lose Shootitiff. 20.{ inn to finish the roug'h journey to Now-yarn before nin-ht ; the j)ile from one sled, therefore, was cached, and the sled put up on end, and wal- rus-lines hung from its peak to swing in the wind find frighten the \w,\y and the wolf from the cache. The journey was finished at 3 ]). m. At Now-yarn the new-comers were cordially received with the usual feast of venison and tood-noo, and two new ifjioos were; quickly built. Hall found the widows of Ar-too-a and Sho-shv-arh-nooh, and their mother in deep mourning, the long, coarse, raven hair of Ar- too-a^s widow completely hiding her face, neck, and shoulders. News of the death of Ar-too-a had been brought to Hall by Nu-ker-zhoo and Oonfi-oo-choo some weeks before. Ar-too-a had gone out in his h'l-a (or one-man boat) alone. This was contrary to Innuit custom, but he was known as a bold, venturesome spirit who never quailed to attack the bear with a single spear, or to hunt the fierce walrus fai" (mt on the ice ; his death had been more than once predicted. At the time it happened, one of the Innuit women on the shore heard a cry of distress, and on her giving the alarm, two hi-as quickly pushed out into the lake. They found his boat and his implements, except one spear, but his body had sunk. It was supposed that while he was spearing' one of a band of deer crossing the lake, some huge buck 21(i Tlw Ki-as of Ilcpii/sr 11(11/. Ifebruarr, IN««. V-: i 4' '> 1 ii proved nj^ly, and in \\\v encounter kicked up liis lieols, strikinj^- tho boat, which was at onco u|)8et. Hall notes the difVerenci^ between tho ki-as of this country and those of ( Jreenhmd, Frohislier Hay, and Hudson's Strait: 'I'Ik' ki-ds hfvv iiw of far less wciylit tliiui tlionc nf (IrcciilaiKl — not so lonj^ or so widi'. Indeed, tliej are not inor*' than ll't pounds \veit;lit, wliile tliose on tlie west side of Davis's Strait ofttinies exceed lOU jiounds. A (ireenlander, or any Innnit anywiiore from Hudson's Strait u]) to Nortliunibeiland Inlet, on gettin)>' into one of tlie ki-a» of tliis country would ca]>si/u as quickly us a white man in theirs. Khicrbin^' at tirst could do nothing' in them but roll over, Ai-u and all. To {jet jirojierly into one of these boats, an Innnit has to work and wifjuh* his body a htnj;' time. I cainiot imajfine how Arioo-a managed, on yettiu};' cap- sized, to {jet his body out of his A'/-rt, so tight was he s(iueezed in when in it. KKITLSK HAY KI-A. Klsewhere, he notes his surprise on learning that the natives coni- phiined tluit he had kept Ar-moii with him. They bitterly felt the loss of their an-f/e-ko, and said that \i' Ar-moii had {j^one up with Ar-too-a to the lake he might have been at hand to sfive him. Old Ook-har-loo, mother-like, held on to a hope that she would yet look upon her son. The midwinter months, to the 8th of Fel)- ruary, were pasr^ed comfortably with the uatives at or uear Now-yarn. The stock of provisions was ample, and hunting unnecessary as well as impracticable ; the time was, therefore, spent mostly within the n/loos, in the usual amusements and feasting the character of which has already been described. The number of souls in the village, including women and KY-AK OKXA.MKXT. m 1 1 1 k VrbrHnrr, IN(I«. I'ojuddtioH of Xoir-if(trn. 217 cliildrt'ii, WJ1H foily-tbree. Tliis miniber On-c-la counted up by keep- ing open with liis finger for Hall the Hiune number ot" lea^'es in one of liiH little volumes — the liook (»t' I'siilms. The Kskimos, as is well known, can generally count aw far aH ten, ])ut after that, they only Huy, am-a-su-it or am-a-sii-ad-lii (many, a ver}' great many). DICATH OF AH-TOO-A. Almost every day the whole population came together for the feasts. At times, Hall showed his continued good-will bv giving Wi «r. 218 Amusements. I February, 1866. special entertainments, at which he waited himself on the younger children, after feasting the adults. Free smoking assisted the good humor, when tobacco, as well as other articles, including desiccated vegetables, were drawn from the stores taken out with him from the United States. To leave no exception from his invitations, he urged old mother Ooh-har-loo to release Too-koo-li-too from the iron custom which was working against her at the time. The favor was granted, but Too-koo-li-too, from superstitious fear, declined to avail herself of the dispensation. Her babe, born September 16, was, in her judgment, yet too young. Amusements necessarily formed a large part of the occupations of the village. Wrestling and oth»er gymnastic exercises were not only much relished, but instinctively practiced with frequency, to maintain that muscular power of which the race were in conscious need for their success and personal safety in the hunt and in severe exposures. I \.\UIT rmilT-KOl'KIS, The tight-rope was in use, stretched within the igloo by thongs of wal- rus-hide, which, with some skill, were securely fastened on the outside of the roof. Games of checkers and dominoes were often interrupted FebrHarr, IN6M.I New Year's Day. 219 by long yarn-spinning, chatting, and smoking. The dance and the masquerade ball were not infrequent. The first month of the new year had closed with a celebration of a unique character. Hall had announced to them the opening of the year by passing round through the connected snow-houses and shout- ing its coming with so loud a voice and at such an hour as even to frighten the people. They seemed to have reciprocated his atten- tions with interest. The whole day was busily spent in preparing for the masquerade and the dance; and when the ball opened, the most grotesque costumes imaginable provoked loud and continued laughter IXNirr IIKAD-OlfXAMKNT— SKAI.-ll'.inil ; IIKAD.S I'KO.-.I 1>U. liAK. from all the company; for the garments h 1 1 been hastily patched up from nil the second-hand articles of clothing, such as pants, shirts, drawers, remnants, and pieces of cloth, calicoes, and stuff which had been picked up at times from the whalers; and these were put on by men, women, and children, even the smallest, with a studied care to make themselves ridiculous. The masks were of reindeer-skin. The performance came off in the triplet igloo of ^^Nu-ker-zJioo, Ar-gooni-oo- too-lik, See-gar & Co.," where dancing to a late hour was accompanied by the key-low-tik, with monotonous singing, and a cheerful, tuneless / It 220 Miniature Sledges. [Fobraarr, lNa«. accordeon. Dancing- in couples, dancing altogether, and dancing singly, filled up the hours. GROUND-PLAN OF THK FKA8TING-1GLOO— SCALE, tV" = 12". I. Passage-way, about G feet high. II. Vestibule, 9 feet high. III. Igloo— floor to dome, 9 feet 3 inches; height of bed-platform, 2 feet 9 inches. IV. Igloo— floor to dome, 9 feet C inches; height of bed-platform, 3 feet. V. Igloo — floor to dome, 9 feet 5 inches; height of bed- pliitforni, 2 feet 7 inches. B. Bed-platform; F. Floor; L. Lamp. At the close of other entertainments when the storm did not shut them in-doors as on the occasion of Hall's feasting them on Christmas night, the boys harnessed up a team of little dogs and gave the youngest children a good sledge-ride on the ice of Kepulse Bay. For such rides, miniature teams of puppies but two months old were some- times driven with much skill by the young children; the puppies being harnessed by the line only, and the young drivers using the long whip : »■ Febrnarr, 1866.J Trip to Oo-gla-ri-your Island. 221 just as the men do. Their sleds are about two feet in length. The village, outside the igloos, was illuminated with '^nanng-roons,^^ or lan- terns, some of ice, others of snow. Hall says, about these: "Really there is no occasion for any one to bring glass windows or glassware into this country, for King Cold gives us the material during nine months of the year. These lanterns are fine specimens of the handi- work of the race." On the 3d of February, Hall and Nu-ker-xJioo made a very rough journey back to Oo-gla-ri-your Island, to recover a favorite artificial horizon, first used on the expedition of 1860 to 1862. The instrument was readily found by Nu-ker-zhoo on the surface of the snow, but in a damaged state; the woodwork eaten by foxes and the mercury wholly lost. The two were back at Now-yarn at the close of the second day, having passed one night in an igloo on the ice. On this trip of sixty miles they were more than once jerked from the flying sledge "like stones from a sling." On the island a native sledge was found, made ESKIMO SLKUGE. entirely of the jaw-bone of a whale. It was very heavy. The run- ners were 12 feet long, 10 inches deep, and 1^ inches thick, and were 222 Now-yarn Harbor and the Cliff. (Pobruarf, 1866. H I ! 1:. i shod with the same bone; the cross-bars measured 20 inches. Ou-e-la said that it belonged to the father of the I-vit-chuck already named. Hall now spent several days in the busy work of surveying Now- yarn harbor and its vicinity, n»aking the sketch of which the cut below is a fac-simile. I^elct. A cliff on the border of a neighboring inlet much interested him by the Innuit tradition with which it was connected. Ou-e-kUs story was that, years before, two little girls while playing about this cliff, with infants in hoods on theu- backs, had gone into an opening between the rocks, which closed upon them before escape was possible. All attempts for rescue were unsuccessful, and the poor children, to whom for a time bread and water were passed, perished in the cliff. On the 8th, Hall found himself back at his tenting-ground at the twenty-sixth encampment, near Dr. Rae's "Forlorn Hope" — Fort Hope. February, 1866.] Visit to Fort Hope. 223 ■u It. w/iic 30 ft. 1„„ "^'^^;!!1^!^\^>' THE KENT CLIFF. On setting out in the morning, all Now-yarn had turned out to bid him *' ter-hou-ee-tie'^ — a hearty good-bye. He left the kindly advice with Ou-e-la to be sure to send for him if any of the people were sick. With his own Eskimos, and Ar- mou and Mam-mark, he made the jour- ney by four o'clock in the afternoon, the sledges being heavily loaded, and he himself preferring to pace the whole distance, carefully counting every fourth step. As soon after their ar- rival as new igloos were built, refresh- ments were served up, including a lit- tle brandy of such proof that it remained unfrozen at 50*^ below zero, eschewed the favorite muk-tuk, the brandy, and the smoking. Mam- mark having recently lost her wing-er (husband), and Too-koo-li-too's child being less than a year old. When Hall took his brandy, even after breathing for some time upon the flask, he was burned from mouth to stomach as by a stream of fire-coals ; — impressing him ever after with the necessity of being as wise in first taking the frost out of the liquid as he was in taking it out of the nose of the flask. The next day, having occasion to visit Fort Hope, he was struck with its exposed position, and his notes express an admiration of Dr. Rae's ability as the leader of an expedition, for having wintered his party of 1846 within its gloomy mud and stone walls without the loss of a man. Mam-mark and others now spoke of their friends hav- ing seen Dr. Rae at Pelly Bay, as well as at Fort Hope. They knew Oo-lig-huck, Rae's guide, under the name Mar-ko, and among other The fair sex of the company 224 Difficulties ivith the Innuits. [innrcb, 18««. things which they related of this man, was the story that he became much alarmed by the accounts from the Iwillik people of the fierce and deceitful Neitchille tribe, and for this reason he had tried to desert Rae, but without success. During the rest of the month of February and throughout March, Hall was quite willing to have for his companions the few only who had returned with him from Now-yarn. He needed rest from the fre- quency of visitations to liis igloo, and quiet for maturing his plans for the spring sledge journey ; but especially, relief from the misunder- standings and alienations occurring not infrequently at the village. It is easy to see that any estrangement from those on whom he as the only white man was dependent, and at times helplessly so, must have caused him much disquiet, beyond even the connection of this with the success of his plans. Some personal misunderstandings with Ou-e-la (the chief) and with Ar-mou, and others, had more than once occurred ; and at one time he seems to have had good reason to believe that his life was in danger. But his control over the people continued to be strangely successful, and it so remained up to the close of the expedition. The chief means of this success is readily to be inferred from the course of the narrative up to this date. From the time of his first meeting with the Innuits he had reciprocated the cordiality of their simple offerings, and had subjected himself to a conformity with their strange customs; he had ministered to their necessities in sickness, supplying both food and fuel ; and had held out to them just expecta- tions of further assistance from the whalers, and from his friends in the United States. His chief dependence for the needed control over them was in his supply of tobacco, often freely given as a present, but as a I' ^ SKKTfll OF COAST LINES M{()M FT. CHUUClilLL TO LANCASTER SOUND I5y Ai'-n»i)U in 18H6. ^':^-^v, V if starch, 1866.] Control of the Innuits. 225 rule, dealt out as rations in exchange for provisions. When for two days he held out in a refusal to serve out this to Ar-mou (the Wolf), a personal contest was nearly broug-lit on. " The savage," after several angry conferences with his fellows, again and again demanded the coveted weed; but even when he approached Hall to lay hold on him, he received the firm answer, '^Ar-mou keeps his muk-tuk, Hall keeps his tobacco." This self-control seems to have had as much to do with closing the affair amicably, as any assistance that Ebierbing and Too- koo-li-too could render. Other alienations had now shown themselves by the separa- tion from him of the rest of the Innuits, and by their withhold- ing from him their old gifts and even some of his own supplies, which might have been brought when he was known to be in need, from the whale cached in August ; to say nothing of their forge tful- ness to keep for him his accustomed place at the feasts. It is cer- tainly creditable to Hall that he could exercise such self-control, and make full allowance for the circumstances in which he was placed, and in which he steadfastly purposed to abide. Some things he knew that he must probably misunderstand. His own determined purpose he could not. In despite of these adverse circumstjinces, he had not been without renewed encouragements. The leading men of the tribe had come and talked with him about his journey before he went over to Now-yarn, and when good humor prevailed there, had repeatedly entered into his plans, and committed themselves and their people to his assistance. Ar-mou completed for him a chart of the waters and lands he had voyaged and traveled over in his lifetime. "It embraced a section of country from Pond's Bay (say in lat. 73° N., long. 76° W^) to Fort Churchill (lat. 58° 44' N., long. 94° 14' W.) ; the distance between the two places in a direct line being 966 nauti- S. Ex. 27- -ir. i ■ till 226 Ready to Move. (ITIarrh, IN«I6. ^hI I^H ! awlj cal miles (by middle latitude sailing, i)65.8 ; by Mercator, DfjD.H)." The coast which this native delineated, and with most of which he was well acquainted, exceeded six times this distance. With all the indentations of the coast from Ig-loo-lik to Repulse Bay, and thence to Fort Churchill, he still was familiar, except the further or most westerly extent of Chestei-field Inlet. He had been on Southampton Island twice ; the first time drifting there on the ice while walrusing in the winter. From his map and from others drawn by natives, par- ticularly from the sketch of Lyon's Inlet, to be found in a later part of this Narrative, Hall received valuable assistance on his subsequent journeys. The occupations of the quiet stay at Fort Hope had included the selecting and preparing the necessary provisions and stores, and putting them up in convenient packages encased in strong bags of India-rubber cloth ; such as could not be carried away being either cached or cov- ered over in the Sylvia, which was secured from exposure. For Hall's personal comfort, Mam-mark made him a pair of kod-Uns, or breeches, from the Siberian squirrel-furs presented to him the preceding season by his friend Captain Kilmer. On the 30th of March, I-vi-tuk came merrily down to Fort Hope, with all the dogs belonging to See-gar and Ar-ffoo-moo-too-Iik, to assist Hall on his proposed iourney north. These teams, with some dogs which had been left with him by his friend Ou-e-la, were the best prac- tical assurances of good feeling renewed with his old friends. Dui-ing the winter he had almost despaired of securing a team, and his own stock consisted of but '* two female dogs, equal to one good dog, and two puppies, equal to a quarter of a good dog." He had been unable to obtain others at a lower price than a double-barreled gun for each. -1; march, INUH.l Jliadij for King Williani's Land. 227 I-vi-tulis coniinj'' enabled him to jiuticipfito the day tor the move toward Noitcliillo. Now-yarn bad been abandoned by the scattering" of the peojilo to hunt and fish; ()u-e-la, for tliis object, was aheady upon the lakes. Hall was ready to leave all the ixfopie in fidl ••ood humor. He presented them with vem'son, and {i^ave to the men letters to the expected whalers, in which he asked that such reasonable requests as might be made for amnumition and provisions should \w granted ; the compensation for these he expected would be made to the whalers by his two chief friends in the United States. He had now a goodly i)arty ready for the forward move, having only the regret that the women and children must accompany them. It may be questioned, howe ir, whether his efforts to prevent this had been wise ; nor did the sequel show that the women were really an incumbrance. The METEOROLOGICAL NOTES kept in the winter quarters are of interest. The changing temperatures experienced during this second winter of seven months will be appreciated by the following quotations from some specific dates within that period : TLe first snow of the season fell September 0; an inch onlj- in depth; it assisted the hunters in tracking deer. Ice formed on the bay and river for the first time on the 12th of the month following'. The canvas tents becoming un- comfortable, liom-momjH protected the party until they found enough snow on the 29th to build their igloos, and were driven into them by the sudden occurrence of severe storms. The snow-drift of this date prompted Hall to say : I defy any man to make true observations of the number of inches of snow that falls on an average during the winter in the Arctic Regions. Drift and 228 Meteorological Notes Durititf the Whiter. falling Hiiow are all intcrmiiit;l<>iring displays I ever witnessed. The Innuits, nearly the whole of whom witnessed the grand sight, kept up, as they always do on such occasions, their charming music — that is, whistling. The dis- play lasted but a few minutes. * Between tLo. parallel of 50 degrees north and that of 62 degre es north, auroras during the winter are seen almost every uight. They appear high in the heavens, and as often to the south as to the north. In regions. AnV/icr north they are seldom seeu i-xeept in the south. Loomis, p. IW. ^^ Ii ■,fnif I !!!' i»>' Igl Umi i^ pi M' 1i= ■ 1, !i ■ 230 Auroras. The following- night something of a like display was witnessed. A single streak of aurora shot np from the south, and in a few moments the ■whole horizon was alive with the dancing- fires of the AIIiOISA SKKTCIIKl) IIY HAM,. north. On the 19tli there was a disjilay of aurora, upon which the wind had no apparent effect, although a g-ale was blowing. On the loth of March— A winnlioius display strctclicd across tlu' soutlieni ln^avoiis irom oast-south- ea«t to Avcst-soHtliAVOst. Tlu' ('astern lialf was in tlic ioriii of an arcli with vorti- i' Ml A uroras. 231 v.a\ rays, wliile tlie western luilf was convolved in such vast glowing circles that nearly a quarter of the heavens seemed on tire. The eastern half consisted of bosses or birch broomheads, springing into life and dancing merrily to and fro along the vertex of the highest rays forming the arch; to each broondiead was a complete nucleus, well defined, about which the rays, incUned about 45° to the east, played most fantastically. One was quite alone in its glory, for not only had it the embellishments of its sister broondieads, but golden hair i-adiated from its liead in all directions. [With Hall's notes it may be interesting to compare those made by Ijieutenant Weyprecht, of the Austrian ship Tegetthoff, while wit- nessing- the n uroras of the Eastern Hemisphere.] There in the Honth., low on the horizon, stands a faint arch of light. It looks as if it were the upper limit of a dark segment of a circle; but the stars which shine through it in undiminished brilliancy, convince us that the darkness of the segment i^ a delusion i)roduced by contrast. Gradually the arch of light grows in intensity and rises to the zenith. It is perfectly regular; its two ends almost touch the horizon and advance to thf east and west in proportion as the arch rises. No beams are to be discovered in it, but the whole consists of an almost uniform light of a delicious tender color. It is transparent white, with a shade of light green not unlike the ])ale green of a young plant which germinates in the dark. The light of the moon appears yellow, contrasted with this tender color so pleasing to the eye, and so indescribable in words, a color which nature apjtears to have given only to the Polar regions by way of compensation. The arch is broad, thrice the breadth, perhaps, of the rainbow, and its distinctly marked edges, are strongly defined on the i)rofound darkness of the Arctic heavens. The stars shine through it with undiminished brilliancy. The arch mounts higher and higher. An air of repose seems spread over the whole phe- nomenon ; here and there only a wave of light rolls slowly from one side to the other. It begins to grow clear over the ice; some of its groups are discernible. The arch is still distant from the zenith ; a second detaches itself from the dark segment, and this is gradually succeeded by others. All now rise toward the zenith ; the first passes beyond it, then sinks slowly toward the northern horizon, and as it sinks, loses its intensity. Arches of light are now stretched ov«'r the whole heavens; seven are aj)parent at the sam«' time on the sky, though of infe- rior intensity. The lower they sink toward the north, the paler they grow, till at last they utterly fade away. Often they all return over the zenith, and become ^Mm 'im\ 232 Auroras in the Eastern Hemisphere. extinct just as they came. # # # b„^^ again, another form. Bands of every possible form and intensity have been driving over the heavens. It is now 8 o'clock at night, the hour of the greatest intensity of the northern lights. For a moment some bundles of rays only are to be seen in the sky. In the south H, faint, scarcely -observable band lies close to the horizon. All at once it rises rapidly and spreads east and west. The waves of light begin to dart and shoot; some rays mount toward the zenith. For a short time it remains stationary, then suddenly springs to life. The waves of light drive violently from oast to west; the edges assume a deep red and green color, and dance up and down. The rays shoot up more rapidly; they become shorter; all rise together and approach nearer and nearer to the magnetic pole. It looks as if there were a race among the rays, and that each asj ' ^J to reach the pole first. And now the point is reached, and they shoot out on every side, to the north and the south, to the east and the west. Do the rajs shoot from above downward or from below upward? Who can distinguish? From the center issues a sea of flames; is that sea red, white, or green? Who can say — it is all three colors at the same moment! The rays reach almost to the horizon; the whole sky is in flames. Nature displays before us such an exhibition of fire-works as transcends the powers of imagination to conceive. Involuntarily we listen : such a spectacle we think must be accompanied with sound. But unbroken stillness prevails; not the least sound strikes on the ear. Once more it becomes clear over the ice, and the whole phenomenon has disappeared with the same inconceivable rapidity with which it came, and gloomy night has again stretched her dark veil over everything. This was the aurora of the coming storm — the aurora in its fullest splendor. Ifo pencil can draw it, no colors can paint it, and no words can describe it in all its magnificence. And here below stand we poor men and speak of knowledge and progress, and pride ourselves on the understanding with which we extort from Nature her mysteries. We stand and gaze on the mystery which Nature has written for us in flaming letters on the dark vault of night, and iilti- mately we can only wonder and confess that, in truth we know nothing of it. He who has seen its i)henomenon in its full splendor, when in the vast silence the entire vault of heaven seems to consume in flames of intense colors, when streams of fire, furious and frantic, in wild chase all around, rush upward to the zenith, he who has observed the excitement which in such moments manifests itself in the elements of Terrestrial magnetism — to him it must become a life task to aid in removing the thick veil which shrouds this mysterious exhibition of Nature's power. Although in most intimate connection with the disturbances of Terres- Auroras in the Eastern Hemisphere. 233 trial magnetism and utterly inseparable from it, still it is out of our power to discern the links which chain them together. Theory after theory has been pro- posed, but none is adequate; the obscurity which lowers over this indescribable phenomenon is as intense to-day as a hundred years ago. ("New Lands within the Arctic Circle.") '. pv; I.I I. -iT-T- -"i«'"-Jiv,i"..»v»w.';.v«'i'^^rf!",'^""-i'7T^"'»''^rr--',:'7ii," ■ . ^i^^j,m^%mA^w, %§ivii,r.-yj'r'^^:^^"V^^" 'i^'^mit''. " — mfMigr^m„^^f^j, iiu^^n n -'-■ -^■-■-^^-- .iijj. fi,. >p mii,i I Ch AFTER V yjjj- FIRST ADVANCE TOWARD KING WILLIAM'S LAND- SLEDGP: JO'JRNEY to COLVILE bay AND RETURN. MARCH 31 TO MAY 25, Mi CHAPTER VIII. Start fok King William's Land March 31— Hall's companions— His exposure— Walks bk- HiND THE SLEDGES— Gale-bound— iNNUiT legends of the wolf and the bear— An- KOO-TING FOR TOO-KOO-LI-TOO'S SICK INFANT— UNCERTAINTY OF THE GUIDES— Dr. Rae'S chart followed — letters sent back to the whalers — tardiness of the natives — Renewed an-koo-ting for the child — Further dei^ys — Icing of the sleds re- newed— The Sea of Ak-koo-lee reached on the twenty-eighth day of a journey, ONCE MADE BY RaE IN FIVE DAYS — MEETING WITH NATIVES FROM PeLLY BaY — THEIR AC- COUNTS OF Franklin's ships- Relics obtained from them— Intimidation of Hall's MEN BY these NATIVES— HaLL COMPELLED TO RETURN FROM COLVILE BaY— LEAVES A deposit AT Cape Weynton for his next journey— Buries Too-koo-h-too's child, "Little King William "-Arrives at Beacon Hill May 23 — The Innuits agree to go back the next year. The first page of the Note-Book for the last day of March, 1866, has on its face, in bold writing, ^'^ Now for King William! s Land! Up at 4 a. m. and getting ready for a start." The wind was fresh from the north-northwest, and the tempera- ture " 50 degi-ees below frost-point," yet Hall decided to make his first advance of five miles as far as Ou-e-Ms resting-place on North Pole Lake, and from that point to send forward two sledge-loads of stores, after which, before setting out finally on his journey, he would make a safe deposit of his records at the base of Beacon Hill on its northeast side. Ebierbing, Ar-mou, Nu-her-zhoo, young 8he-nuk-shoo and his mother, with Too-koo-li-too and the families of Ar-mou and *£JS i'lSl 238 Hall Sets Out in a Gale. (march, IN««. Nu-ker-zkoo, made up his party. He remained behind for a little while to compare his chronometers, and, after "rendering thanks for (his) innumerable blessings, to ask protection on departing for a country where dangers would be found on every hand." Following the tracks of the sledges as well as he could trace them through the increasing drift, he soon overtook his party. All the other natives v.ho had been at this time at the encampment had now gone off in different direc- tions, some toward Now-yarn and others to the lakes. The gale became very severe, beating fiercely and directly in the face of one who was poorly prepared to bear it from his having eaten little or no food for several days. In writing of this, he says there had been before him an abundance of such as he would have relished if he could relish anything ; but he had been so busy in writing and so enwrapped in anxieties that he had little or no appetite. Let one who has had the like experience as mine, with no other people but savages to deal with, say whether uiy task has been an enviable one during all the time of making every due arrangement and preparation for this journey. The labor of the writing I have done, without speaking of anything else, has been enough to kill many a man, and has nearly killed me. Coming up with the sledges, he now lunched on raw frozen venison with the voracious appetite which the cold gale had created; and on finding that Ar-mou had harnessed himself beside his four dogs, placed himself at the rear of the sledge, helping it forward by constantly following up and pushing. Holding his head low down, he was sheltered from the sharp wind by the load on the sled. Before midday they were all met by Ou-e-la with sick wife (No. 1), coming down the river in haste to be doctored. Igloos were built, and twenty- one persons turned in hastily for shelter. The position Avas found to be lat. 66° 34' 18" N., long. 86° 57' 15" W. There was no anxiety April, 18«6.1 /Sickness Believed. 239 for food, as besides their sled-loads several abundant deposits were still near them, and a band of eleven deer made their appearance on the river-bank. The time for sealinj^ also was at hand. Hall's own abstinence and anxieties had made him more than usually susceptible to cold, so that he was not surprised to find his face frequently frost- bitten on this journey of less than three miles. Tuk-too, Ar-motCs wife No. 2, drew the frost out by applying the warmth of her hand as often as the bite showed itself Woman-like, she had fallen in the rear of the party, to help him if he should be in need. Through the next day and the two which followed, all were com- pletely storm-bound within the igloos, and both the wife of Ou-e-la and Too-koo-li-too's babe, "Little King William," became, as they thought, dangerously ill. Hall treated each case with a dose of phodophyllin and asclepin; and Ou-e-la, who had been fearing now a second time the loss of the companion and guide of his travels, was again happy. While snow-bound, Hall learned from him, among other facts belonging to Arctic animal life, that April is the moon for the birth of the young seal ; May for that of the ook-gook and the musk-ox ; June for the deer and the walrus, and July for the eider-duck. He found also that the Innuits make no attempt to domesticate such animals as the wolf or the deer, from the belief that to do so would bring death to the tribe.* He had a curious account of the hardening process applied to the Kin-na-pa-too dogs, who eat very little, and yet keep in good order and do much service. This is said to be in consequence of notes : 'As exceptions to this in individual cases, the two following stories are found in Hall's THE TAMED WOLF. The mother of Nu-ker-zhoo once captured a very young wolf, of which she took the greatest care, feeding it with the choicest food she could secure, and sharing with it her bed. She hoped it would become a large and powerful animal, and yet remain tractable and more serviceable Mi It ■)il! »? n fM 240 Innuit Traditions. lApril, ItMltf. their being- fed when young- but once a week, being thus kept very poor ; when lull grown, they endure all manner of hardship and hold their own. The Iwillik people, in hard times, fed their dogs once a week. While he was busily writing in the hut, happening to have in his hand a long knife, Oii-e-la told him that the Neitehille men and See- nee men had many such knives, made out of very long, thick, and than a dog, iind would catch deer for her. Unfortunately, when it was half grown, the dogs dis- covering that their playmate was a different animal and an enemy, pounced upon him and tore him to pieces. THE BEAR STORY. [A tradition credited by all the lunuits from above Cumberland Gulf to Hudson's Straits, and from Ig-loo-lik to Chesterfield Inlet. ] Many moons ago, an Inuuit woman obtained a polar bear cub but tw or three days old. Having long desired just such a pet, she gave it her closest attention, as though it were a son, nursing it, making for it a soft warm bed alongside her own, and talking to it as a mother does to her child. She had no living relative, and she and the bear occupied the igloo alone. Koon- ik-jooa, as he grew up, proved that the woman had not taught him in vain, for he early began to hunt seals and salmon, bringing them to his mother before eating any himself, and receiving his share from her hands. She always watched from the hill-top for his return, and if she saw that he had been unsuccessful, she begged from her neighbors blubber for his food. She learned how this was from her lookout, for if successful, he came back in the tracks made on going out, but if unsuccessful, always by a different route. Learning to excel the Innuits in hunting, ho excited their envy, and, after long years of faithful service, his death was resolved upon. On hearing this, the old woman, overwhelmed with grief, offered to give up her own life if they would but spare him who had so long supported her. Her offer Avas sternly refused. Upon this, when all his enemies had retired to their igloos, the woman had a long tolk with her son — now well grown in years — telUng him that wicked men were about to kill him, and that the only way to save his life and hers was for him to go off and not return. At the same time she begged him not to go so far that she could not wander off and meet him, and get from him a seal or some- thing else which she might need. The bear, after listening to what she said with tears stream- ing down her furrowed cheeks, gently placed one huge paw on her head, and then throwing both around her neck, said, "Good mother, Eoon-ik-Jooa will always be on the lookout for you and serve you as best he can." Saying this, he took her advice and departed, almost as much to the grief of the children of the village as to the mother. Not long after this, being in need of food, she walked out on the sea-ice to see if she could not meet her son, and soon recognized him as one of two bears who were lying down together. He ran to her, and she patted him on the head in her old familiar way, told him her wants, and begged him to hurry away and get something for her. Away ran the bear, and in a few moments the woman looked upon a terrible fight going on between him and his late companion, which, however, to her great relief, was soon ended by her son's dragging a lifeless body to her feet. With her pau-na (long knife) she quickly skinned the dead bear, giving her son large slices of the blubber, and telling him that she would soon return for the meat which she could not at first carry to her igloo, and when her supply should again fail she would come back for his help. This she continued to do for "a long, long time," the faithful bear always serving her and receiving the same unbroken love of his youth. April, 1866.1 HaWs Record-Deposit. 241 heavy ones found ho know not where. In Hall's mind, those heavy ones were, without douht, obtained from the abaruloned ships of Franklin's Expedition; but ho shows a free readiness to receive such impressions. On the 3d, a Record of his work thus far done Avas deposited at the proposed point, the bearings of which were noted from a native stone monument 5 feet in height, and from the oven built by Dr. Rae, Juno 23, 1847, for baking with heather the bread described in his Narra- tive. Ou-e-la promised to have care of the cache, and when he should remove to Oog-la-ri-your Island take the Record with him, to secure it from destruction in the summer by any visiting Pelly Bay or Neitchille natives. Parting from Hall next day to go south, he took the friendly word " Ter-hou-e-tie " to be passed to the whaling captains when they should arrive. The Innuits, Hall says, never say farewell. The sledges for North Pole River now went forward loaded with heavy stores, and over all these Hall's cutlass, knife, compass, and medical bock. The course was north 50° east. The sled of Oong-oo- too, who, with I-vit-uJc, had now brought two small teams to join the party for a short journey, soon broke down; it was made of poles only, shod as usual with the fine-chopped moss and ice. Its load was placed upon the others and the dogs distributed among their teams A weight of about 500 pounds of whale-blubber and oil in seal-skins was tiien brought out from a deposit found on the road to Ou-e-Ms old igloo, on arriving at which a comfortable meal was made on mtik-tuk; the sledges were unloaded and re-iced. After some ineffectual shots fired into a band of twenty frightened deer, the next halt was made, for build- ing igloos on the ice of Dr. Rae's Christie Lake, lat. 66° 40' 45". The dis- tance made was inconsiderable, but the halt was chiefly for the sake of S. Ex. 27- -IG mm i'.M 242 Au-koo-tinp. (April. IN66. tho sick cliiUl, jmd the TnmiitH tljeniHolvcs siiid that it was thoir habit to make short days' journoys at tlio firet, extend thoni from time to time, and make great distances toward tho hist. For a gain on tho morrow, as soon as Nu-hcr-zhoo had spent liis half-honr on his ujloo^ ho was sent off five miles up the lake, with a full team, to deposit a sledge load in advance. At (>.3() p. m., a beautiful parhelion appeared 22'^ .5 north side of the sun ; it showed prismatic colors : At 7'' 5"'" the sun was disappearing behind the hills on tho west side of tho lake. ]?efore the day closed, Hall noted that a rivulet of an eighth of a mile con- nects the lake with North Pole River, and, uniting two large sheets of water, forms an attractive spot for the deer. Its name is Koon-imo (the deer-pass). At this thirty-second encampment,* to his grievous disappoint- ment, he was detained until the 11th of the month by the continued illness of Too-koo-li-too's child. Concentrated medicine adminis- tered for pneumonia did not effect an improvement satisfactory to the mother ; and her Innuit friends very readily took occasion to recom- mend and to practice different forms of their owix healing art by an- hoo-ting. Three somewhat different trials of the art were made. On the 4th, the an-ge-ko put a leather strap around Ebierbing's head while lying on the bed, and when he occasionally pulled on this strap, the head came up, or it remained firmly down though the lifts were hard ; the raising of the head or its remaining steady indicated the different replies to the questions asked as to the future of the babe. On the 7th, the babe's health not having improved, Nu-ker-zhoo, as "a newly-fledged an-ge-ko,^^ entered on his work by putting the strap around the head of one of the women, and while propounding many questions to the Spirit, * For tli« route now traveled, see m.qp for Chapter XIII ; the more successful journey uar- ratcd in that chapter beiug on the same route as far as Cape Weynton. ■Iff April, I86a.| An-koo-tinff tvith a Stnur. 243 bvonj^lu uj) lior lioad only v»lion an uflinnativo rc])ly was made. Tho third (»poration, on tho 8th, is described by Ilall as follows : Kn-hrxhoo brought into our if/loo froui ilic land a stouo Avcifihitif; 10 ])oun(ls ; tlion lie inado fast a string o{ ookfiook- skin t«) tli(5 stone, and tlius lio was iu'('i)ar«'d for his witcliiufj worlv. 1 fjot on the bedplatforni, a di'Oid.v-iuten'slcd spei'tator. The persons ju-esent wore Su-kerzlioo, Ar-moiij Mnm-marlc, myself, ICbiorhin};, Too-kooli-too, and their sicilc babe. Except Ar-mou^ who stood on the tloor, all woi'e seated on the platform. The stone with which Xn-ker-xhoo operated, rested on the bed beside him, and the string that encircled tlie stcme was in botii his liands, the hand nearest tlie stone being used as a kind of iiilcrnm as well as for tlie lifting-power. It was by his side, and the string passed just above liis lap to his right hand. The tirst proceedings were for Nti-kerzlioo, on having the string in his hand, as above, to woo or call the Spirit to the stone by calling out ^^At-tcel At-teeP^ many times; lifting each time ou the stone to determine whether tlie Spirit responded. Tlie others ])resent occasionally Joincid in the same (iall. After two or three minutes spent in this way, to the willing eyes of Xuker-zhoo tlie stone, despite of all pulls, became almost immovable by tlie Spirit pulling hard down on it, as tlic poor devotees to this absurd business believe. This was the indication that the Spirit was willing and ready to answer any question that might be proi)osed. If the answer was no, the stone had no more than its natural weight; if yes, then Nu-ker-zhoo labored hard to raise it the least hit. The object aimed at on e.acli ^f these occasions was plainly enough indicated by some of the many questions whicli the Spirit answered. These were, "Should the child take any more of Hall's medicines?" and, more pointedly, " Had Too-koo-li-too conformed to the customs of her people in her habits of daily life, food," &c.; or "on what conditions would the child's life be saved?" The answers to such questions as the two first of these were always strongly in the nega- tive; to the third it was, in sub^"*ance, that if the mother should, for the space of five months, give ..^ the use of such articles as bread and tea, or remain with Oii-e-lds people, the child would live; but if the 1 il^s ' llf IHlnit: 1^ '&' I- 244 Too-koo-li-too Obeys the An-ge-lco. [April, 1866. parents went forward with it to the Neitchille country, one of the three would die. So strong had heen the persuasions of the women of the party, and so fully under the power of their people's law were even Ebier- hing- and Too-koo-li-too (although they had lived with Hall both in their own country and in the United States), that during this temporary failure of the power of his medicines, these parents gave themselves fully up to this superstition. His notes show how sin- cerely grieved he was at the risk to which this giving up of medicine was subjecting the child ; how tried in spirit he was at their degrading subjection, and yet how helpless he was to afford relief. Too-koo- li-too, when almost persuaded to let the child again have relief, pleaded that she and her husband would be cursed by the Innuits; and told Hall plainly that if the an-ge-ho were not obeyed they would all desert him. The whole of this matter was still the more trying, because, although there were some singular phenomena for which Hall says he could no more account than for like things in the spirit-rap- pings in his own country, the actions of the an-ge-ko could generally as plainly be seen through as was his object; for on closely watching him, as in the process of the stone-lifting. Hall saw well enough that when the weight was about to be lifted with great difficulty Na-ker-zhoo prepared himself beforehand for a strong pull, and as plainly did the opposite when it suited his purpose. *' What was all this lifting for? To gratify the devil, who has been doing his evil work through the dark benighted minds of this truly savage people." Hall told Too-koo- li-too and Ebierbing that they mu»t not mind the information pretended to be got out of a stone, and confidentially showed them the deception that Nu-ker-zhoo had practiced in lifting it and in the former lifts of the April, I860.] Arrival at Christie Lake. 245 heads, notwithstanding which Ebierbing rewarded the an-ge-Jco by getting for him one of Hall's hand-saws and presenting him with his own gun. On the 15th the sledge parties amved at the place marked on the map to be found in Chapter XIIT, " Encampment 33 " The mother of the sick babe, " Little King William," had now been persuaded to permit the further "exhibiting" of medicines, and to trust Hall's judg- ment that the child would be in as fair way of recovery if borne in her hood on the sled as if kept in the snow house. The heavier loads being again pushed forward, the parties in charge made their next deposit on the crown of the land a little beyond the end of Christie Lake, and halted here, not knowing the route fui-ther toward Ak-koo-lee — Committee Bay. Mam-marJc was looked to for their guide when they should resume their journey, as she alone knew the northern route. Hall believed that the point reached was the " Flett" land of Dr. Rae; and from this point, if Mam-mark^s guidance failed, he could go for- ward safely by the aid of Rae's chart. At the Lower Narrows many deer had been seen, th" spot being a famous one for the number of these animals, which, while crossing in their season from one sheet of water to the other, are speared by the Innuits from their ki-as. In letters written to Mr. Grinnell, Mr. Brevoort, and Captains Chapel, Kilmer, and White, Hall stated with care the places of his record-deposits, and what disposition he desired should be made of them if looked for ; adding that he must be absent from Repulse Bay till the following spring, and perhaps for another year. The records of his work at Repulse Bay would be found, as heretofore named, at the base of Beacon Hill; those which he hoped to make on King ig 246 Man-Lines to Help the Dogs, [April, 1866. William's Land would be at the points used by Lieutenant McClin- tock in the expedition of the Fox ; ir general, they would be found at the end of a line 25 feet north from stone monuments which ho would build. Oong-oo-too, who was now about to return to Repulse Bay, had special instructions to Ou-e-la to deliver these letters to any whale- ships which should come in ; and he, as well as I-vit-uk, were re- warded for their past services with all the tobacco which could be gathered from Hall's, Nu-ker-zJioo's, Ar-moii's, and Ebierbing's pocl jts. On the withdrawal of their teams. Hall was gratified to find that he still had three strong sledges and a team of eighteen dogs including two powerful old ones ; which would be enough for even the three usual daily trips — the advance, with its return, and the forward journey. Making an early start, with the wind and temperature in their favor, after a fair new advance, they made their usual repast on frozen veni- son, slaking their thirst through a hole chiseled 6 feet into the ice, over which the snow lay 18 inches deep. Having here an ascent to overcome, " man-lines " were prepared from ook-gook skin for harness- ing helpers to the dogs ; these were made fast to one of the sledge cross-bars, and as near the stern as possible, and were long enough to harness a man on each side of the head of the sled. Poth Mam-mark and Nu-ker-zhoo having forgotten at this point the northern route taken by them twelve yeai's before. Hall chose the left of two routes open- ing toward Felly Bay, believing that this was Dr. llae's route. On the 13th, kept within their huts by a gale, the day was spent by the In- Innuits feasting and playing dominoes ; in the evening Hall had renewed conversations with Nu-keir-zhoo and his wife about Franklin's Expedition. Delays increased. But little disposition was now found among the Innuits, or even in Ebierbing, to push on to King William's Land. m^ April, t866.J Delays. 247 They feared that they would find no reindeer there, and that if they readied the place they would be compelled to return to Pelly Bay for the winter. Hall encouraged them to believe that they would be among a number of natives, and would find suflficient provision; but as no one of them could appreciate his chief object, he could gain upon them only by alternately showing determined resolve and next pei'suasion — the latter was of necessity the usual course. Ho resolved on spendiug as little time as possible in making astronomical observations or in writing. His notes of the day contain the expression of a purpose, that if even all the Innuits deserted him, he would go on with a sledge-team by himself; for he never could return to his country without accom- plishing something of the objects for which he had left his home. It may be remarked, in passing, that the sincerity of this record is confirmed by the fact that he not only might have returned in one of the whalers during the previous summer, but that he had been apprised by his friend Mr. Grinnell of the willingness of Captain Chapel now to look him up in Repulse Bay and bring him back. On the 14tli he could easilv have made ten miles had Nu-ker- zhoo and Ebierbing been any other than Innuits. In the nij.'ht, how- ever, these friends proved their value in another way — by saving the dogs, his northern camels. Plunging, though unarmed witli even a knife, into a pack of twenty-five devouring wolves, they frightened them off by shouts ; more t^ian once the furious animals formed in line for a new attack. Delayed until 10 a. m. of the following morning by this night-watch against the wolves and by Nii-her-zliod's renewing his an-koo-ting for Little King William, the sledges at last started forward, and made better progress through the day, although the wind fresh- ened to a gale from the north, and the run was made more difficult ll:.\-' I, m 248 An-Tioo-ting for the Babe Menewed. [April, 1866. imI by the recent fall of snow. At times, the teams were doubled up to ascend the hill, the change reqviiring but half a minute. When one of the drivers was found nearly exhausted by his peculiar Iimuit urging of his dogs, Hall drove his team and gave him a small swig of Bourb<^n ; and by extending the gift later in the day to the other men, gained their willing travel of an additional hour. While passing over one of the lakes, She-nuk-shoo picked up a mass of reindeer-hair with a piece of the skin having fresh blood on it — a mark of the work of some of the very numerous wolves, whose tracks were all along the route. The thirty-fourth encampment was made at 4.47 p. m., the wind blowing a gale and the snow flying thickly. While they were building igloos, Hall himself succeeded in chiseling in thirty-five min- utes through ice 6 feet thick, and in one hour slaked his great thirst with " four quarts of glorious water." On their way they had passed the grave of the unfortunate Ar-too-a, who, as has been before noted, had been drowned in the lake the preceding suuimer. The course during the day had been north 53° east, and the rate of travel had averaged two and a half miles an hour. Where they halted, a great number of Innuit stone-marks were found, set up to direct the bands of migrating deer across a narrow channel of the lake passed over. At night another furious wolf-attack was repelled. A new and tedious delay began on the 15th. The mother of the sick child, alarmed by its much-changed looks, again summoned her friends, and Nu-ker-zhoo renewed his an-koo-ting, beginning this time by a solemn march with Ebierbing's double-barreled gun in hand, and uttering for some fifteen minutes along the passage-way the most vociferous cries. Within the igloo, on the full renewal of the stone- lifting feat, the replies of the Spirit through the an-ge-ko to the dis- i-l April, 1866. The Babe Given Aivay. 249 tressed mother were positive that the child would live ; and her belief in this was confirmed by its temporary revival from what had seemed to Hall when he looked on it in her hood, to be the presence of actual death. The confidence of the parents in his judgment, he thought, how- ever, was weakened by their remembering his having given them hope of the life of their child Too-ke-U-Jce-ta (the Butterfly) not long before it died in New York '" 1863. The an-ge-Jco renewed his positive assvirances by the answers from the lifted head of the girl, TooJc-too, after he had completed his work with the stone. Two days after, the mother, in her despair and professed willingness to do anything to save life, pro- posed to fall in with the custom practiced by her own people of Cum- berland Inlet, which is, in such cases of extremity, to save life hi/ giving away the child to another person. Her own immediate connections on the inlet had been unfortunate in the loss of their children, but she remembered and related several cases in which, as her people thought, health had been in this way certainly restored. Whether it was by request or not does not appear, but Nu-ker-zhods wife came to the igloo the same evening, and was witness to the clear answers through the again lifted head of Took-too that the babe must be given away the next morning. Too-koo-li-too had taken full share in the feat of the evening, contributing a peculiar wood-button to the an-ge-ko, who threw it rapidly down, first on one side and then on the other of Took- tod's head, dashing it finally against the igloo wall ; and she gave up the babe the next morning to the woman who had consented to receive it from her before the an-koo-ting began ; but, a day or two after, on Hall's telling Nii-ker-zhoo boldly and with fire in his words that the child must go back, another an-koo-ting restored it. The mother had suflFcred, too, for want of her babe at the breast, and the i] % ;;j it *i 1'-'; i! &;:i: if S; ii IM f'i If! ( ii iifi' s^ <. , 1 11 1 1 |i U '' "' '" ' 250 Uncertainty as to the lloute. [April, X866. child had no nourishment except a piece of raw meat to suck. With but one exception, however, entreaties to resume the administering of medicine were refused up to the day of its release from its sufferings. On the morning of the 16th, Ebierbing and Hall climbed a hill 300 feet above the lake, but were shut out from any clear sight of the sea to the north by the thickly-flying snow; they thought that through the spy-glass they could obscurely make out sea-ice. All along their route, tracks of the musk-ox were now plainly recognized by their stand-droppings, so much larger than those of the deer ; reindeer were seen, but the travelers had no weapons with them but long knives. The view from the hill took in lakelets in every direction ; the one on which they were encamped, was three-fourths of a mile in length, with an arm on the other side of the hill that seemed to extend itself to the sea; while the number of the lakes made it more difficult than ever to deter- mine whether they were really upon Dr. Rae's old route. Hall thought that a dozen different routes might be followed from Christie Lake to the Sea of Ak-koo-lee. On his return from the hill, he found that a puppy had capsized his artificial horizon, spilling all the mercury, and Mani-mark had not much improved the matter by gathering it from the snow into a tin dish. Provoking as this was, he had to make the best of it, as a few days before he had done when the dogs fell to fighting while he was taking his meridian observations — the dogs, in the muss, knocking the horizon over and over. Such annoyances and worse ones, not unfre- quently occurring, he wished all the dogs in "Tophet"; yet he writes, they " are a blessing to an Arctic traveler. I hope some day to have their aid in getting to the North Pole." On the 17th, another day was forced from him for rest by the wm^ April, 1866.] Tlie Sledge Capsized to Stop the Dogs. 251 Innuits. Eighteen days had now passed without making an advance of more than thirty- two miles to his present position, lat. 67° 4' N. ; but such deUiys as had been necessary on the score of humanity were not regretted. During this day, Ebierbing, who had seen Hall's tooth- pullers and heard him describe lancing the gums, drew out one of his own three-pronged molars, bleeding himself profusely by his four trials. On Hall's looking over his instruments, and taking out with them a couple of combination knife-fork-and-spoon articles. Mam-mark who saw them, told him that she had seen among the Innuits at Pelly Bay many forks, all of the same silver-like look, as well as many watches and chains. The day following, all the men, women, and children were break- fasted on bread and coffee; they once more made a start, the travel averaging two miles per hour, and by four o'clock, with difficulty, arrived at a place within two miles of the sea. While going down the hill to Salt Lake, the descent being at an angle of about 4.5°, and the loads heavy, all the dogs were detached and the sledges let go on their own hook. A little further on. Hall's sledge fell behind, the runners dragging heavily. In order to renew the shoeing, his driver and him- self filled their mouths with snow-water, which would again freeze while they were putting it on ; but She-nuk-shoo grunting out that he would lose his mouthful if even he cried out to the dogs to stop, they capsized the sledge to stop them. Five minutes later they were gliding over the snow as if over glass. A different kind of grunting, took-too- like, made by Nu-ker-zhoo, kept a band of deer following the sledge so closely for more than two miles that their eyes were plainly seen when they stopped to stare. He kept up with Hall, yet took time to make several shots, and killed a fine buck. '■'Mi 11 mi 252 Arrival at Cape Lady Pelly. [April, 1866. i , ■ By the 1 9tli of tlio montli, Hall had struck the rough ice of the sea of Ak-koo-lee, and, passing over one of its small arms, made his encamp- ment upon it. On the 20tli, he measured a rough lunar distance to test the correctness of his dates, and confirmed them by comparison of this measurement with those given in the Nautical Almanac; he was unable to make any further advance on this day. The first headland met on resuming the journey on the 21st was a projecting point 100 feet in height. On the 22d, by meridian observations, he determined his lati- tude, and by comparison of four chronometers found his longitude to agree within 11' of that given on Dr. Rae's chart; the latitude agreed very well for the relative situations of Cape Lady Pelly and Point Hargrave. Making an effort to push his advance parties forward by longer journeys, of at least 25 miles per day, by saving the time usually spent in loading up and in building igloos, on the 23d he reached Cape Lady Pelly, and halted to discover how he might get round the point, as the ice was exceedingly rough. "Jagged and broken granite stones are in plenty here, where I suppose Dr. Rae made his advance deposits in 1854." The land a little further on was found to be very low, forming an inclined plane to the coast, interrupted by a short highland one mile distant from and parallel with it. As far as to Point Swanton, the coast-line was afterward found so low that it was difficult to tell whether they were on sea-ice or land ; the travel was upon the ice-foot, whicli was from 10 to 30 yards wide, on the outside of which were heavy masses of very rough ice from 50 to 200 yards in width, while the sea itself was covered with solid pack-ice. On the 24th two deer, shot by Ebierbing and Ar-mou with Hall's favorite rifle, were added to the loads on the sleds. The older one had antlers 18 inches long, which, April, 1866.1 Fast Driving. 253 being a female, she had not shed. She was found with young the size of a rabbit; this the Innuits forbade to bo taken from her. Partridges white as snow, rabbits, and a number of snow-birds were seen. On the 25th they halted on the ice, in three igloos, and Hall congratulated him- self that he had that day advanced the whole company and stores 17 miles; to accomplish which, however, he had made 60 miles, taking in all the advance and return trips necessary for forwarding the stores. But the next two days were again lost. The Innuits pleaded that they must go on a musk-ox hunt, and on Hall's consenting to this for one day, they next pleaded that the first day of halt must be one of rest. On the day following, they failed in their hunt, and would not turn aside to secure the deer which were close by. Hall, not willing to be unoccupied, made a side journey to bring up his deposits ; but he was obliged to take the reins into his own hands from the im- petuosity of his young driver, She-nuk-shoo, who had whipped the dogs so incessantly as to keep them jumping over one another, so that in five minutes the lines became woven and interwoven up to the heels of the hindmost dogs — a very unusual occurrence. With much less whipping. Hall secured as fair speed. On the next day he worked up his observations and obtained from his men the prom- ise of greater haste. Nu-her-zhoo told him they ought to reach Pelly Bay, still 80 miles distant, in three days. On the 27tli, the fresh provisions being nearly exhausted, the whole party breakfasted on cofl:ee and pemmican; at a late hour, only a load of stores was pushed forward by Ebierbing and Nu-kcr-nhoo. Returning at 10.30 p. m., Ebierbing reported that these had been deposited at a point which, as well as he could make it out by Dr. Rae's chart, was close by Cape Weynton, on the south side of Colvile IV I'll 3 ;i' m 254 Feeding the Dor/s. [April, isee. fip, ,« Bay. Hall was hero forced to renionibor that Dr. Rae in 1854 had made the same journey from Fort Hope in five days, his i)arty dragg'ing- their own provisions without even the aid of a dog. It had now cost himself twenty-eight days with the help of his teams. All the Innuits believed, however, that Rao must have found the ice on the sea of Ak-koo-lee much smoother, or it would have been impossible for him to travel so far out from the coast-line. The dogs not having been fed for five days, a 40-pound piece of whale-beef was now cut up and buttered for them with oohfjook blub- ber and seal-oil. They were then put in one by one into an abandoned igho, while Mammark stood inside, club in hand, to beat off all but the one to be fed, and to pound him out when Hall had fed him. A short time before, Ar-mou had nearly killed one of his best dogs by throw- ing a hatchet at him for stealing, and to recover this hatchet which had been left behind, and a wood-button used by the an-r/e-ko, had cost Hall some of the provoking delays of the journey. On the 28th no advance was made. The march would have been resumed northward and westward despite of a severe gale, but Too- koo-li-too was entirely broken down by the continued watching of her child. After a seiious talk with both parents, they once more per- mitted it to take medicine while in an epileptic fit — "two drops of viratum viride and one-half grain of asclepin." The day following, the wind being fresh from north-northwest and the temperature 40° below freezing-point, three miles per hour (two and a half on direct course) were made within the hours from 9.40 a. m. to 6.20 p. m., two stoppages being needed to disentangle the dog-lines. Two small streams were passed, which emptied into the sea of Ak-koo-lee. The travel was mostly on the coast-line ice, the coast itself and the hilly ] i ] April, isao.j Mecthiff ivith Natives from Pelly Bay. 255 land running partiUel with it being a plain lowland of from half a a mile to one mile in width. Capo Woynton was soon on their lar- board beam, bearing due west, and distant half a mile. The cape is not more than 50 feet in height. A new era in the history of this sledge journey now opened. As- cending a berg 30 feet above the level of a floe to prospect the best route across Colvile Bay, Hall, with Ar-mou and She-nuk-shoo, caught sight of four strange Innuits who appeared to be sealing some three miles to the northeast. The sight occasioned some excitement, for, while there was every reason to establish friendly intercourse with these men, in order to obtain further information bearing upon the main objects of his expedition, Hall had his apprehension that if these should prove to be See-neem-e-utes, he would need to be cautious in every movement. He quickly unloaded one sledge and sent it back, with all the dogs, to hasten up the rest of his party ; they amved at 2 p. m. But Nu-ker-^hoo, watching with a spy-glass the movements of these strange Innuits, felt sure that he recognized old friends. Hall's party going forward, therefore, arrived at 9.50 p. m. (sunset), at the snow village of the strangers, and made their fortieth encampment alongside of them on the ice of the sea, three miles from the coast and near Cape Beaufort. The next morning, no sooner was Hall's igloo unsealed than it was filled with new faces. Kok-Iee-arng-niin, their head man, shoAved two spoons which had been given to him by Ag-loo-ka (Crozier), one of them having the initials F. R. M. C. stamped upon it. His wife, Koo-narny, had a silver watch-ease. This opened up the way for immediate inquiries. Through Too-koo-li- too who as usual soon proved a good intrepreter, it was learned that these Innuits had been at one time on board of the ships of Too-loo-ark, ma ■'I t iijUy 256 Franklin and Crozier Described. [April, 1860. Hii* l\ if I; ! (tho great Esh-c-mut-ta, Sir John Frnnklin), and Imd tlieir tupilcs on tlio ice alongside of liini during tho spring and summer. They Hj)oko of one ship not far from Ook-kee-bee-jce-hia (Polly Bay), and two to tho westward of Neit-tee-lik, near Ook-goo-lik. Kok-lee-arng-nUn was ** a big boy when very many men from the ships hunted took-too. They had guns, and knives Avith long handles, and some of their party hunted the took-too on tho ice ; killing so many that they made a line across tho whole bay of Ook-goo-lik." The Pelly Bay men described the Esh-c- mut-ta as an old man with broad shoulders, thick and heavier set than Hall, with gray hair, full face, and bald head. He Avas always wear- ing something over his eyes (spectacles, as Too-koo-li-too intoipreted it), was quite lame, and appeared sick when they last saw him. Ho was ver}'- kind to the Innuits; — always wanting them to eat something. Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) and another man would go and do everything that Too-loo-ark told them, just like boys ; he was a very cheerful man, always laughing ; everybody liked him — all the koh-hi-nas and all tho Innuits. Kok-lee-arng-nUn showed how Too-loo-ark and Ag-loo-ka used to meet him. They would take hold of his hand, giving it a few warm and friendly shakes, and Too-loo-ark would say, '^Ma-my-too-mig-teg-ma" Ag-loo-ka^s hand-shaking was short and jerky, and he would only say, ^^Man-nig-too-me." "After the first summer and first winter, they saw no more of Too-loo-ark; then Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) Avas the Esh-e-mut-ta" The old man and his wife agreed in saying that the ship on board of which they had often seen Too-loo-ark was overwhelmed with heavy ice in the spring of the year. While the ice was slowly crushing it, the men all worked for their lives in getting out provisions; but, before they could save much, the ice turned the vessel down on its side, crushing the masts and breaking a hole in her bottom and so over- April, INttfl. Reported Visits by Innuits to Fmnlditi's Ships. 257 whelming her that hIio sank at once, and had never been seen again. Several men at work in her could not get out in time, and were carried down with her and drowned. " On this account Ay-loo-ka's company had died of starvation, lor they had not time to get the provisions out of her." Ag-loo-ka and one other white man — the latter called ^^Nar- tar,^' a pee-ee-tu (steward) — started and went toward Oot-koo-ish-ee-lee (Great Fish or Back's River), Saying they were going there on their way home. That was the last they saw of them, but heard of them some time after from a Kin-na-pa-too, who said he and liis people heard shots or reports of gun** of strangers somewhere near Chester- field Inlet. On getting the Innuits to try to pronounce the word " doctor," they invariably said ** nar-tar." This made Hall think that the white man with Ag-loo-ka was some one called "doctor" — perhaps Surgeon Macdonald, of Franklin's ship, the Erebus. The other ship spoken of as seen near Ook-goo-Hk was in com- plete order, having three masts and four boats hanging at the davits — whale-ship like. For a long time the Innuits feared to go on board ; but on the report by one of them that he had seen one man on the vessel alive, many of the natives visited it, but saw nothing of the man. They then rummaged everywhere, taking for themselves what they wanted, and throwing overboard guns, powder, ball, and shot. At an interview with the mother of Too-shoo-art-tJiar-iu whose son saw Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) on the island of Ook-goo-lik, Hall was told that during the previous summer or winter, the Innuits of Ook-goo-lik had found two boats with dead koh-lu-nas in them — the boats on sledges ; and that In-nook-poozh-e-jook had one of them. The several interviews from which the accounts here given have been colh-.ted were deeply interesting to Hall. They were held in the i?l ,M S. Ex. 27- -17 ■iff i5 25.S iJiscouraf/hiff News. I April, IM(i«. m III S 1 ; !' presence of his two steadfast friends as interpreters, and of other Inmiits, and the news was conimnnicated with a})parent trnthfuhiess. He says of the chief that he seemed an honest old fellow, delighted with his new koh-lu-na friend, and frequently and cordially calling ont to him, ^'3Ian-)nf/-too-me.^^* The Franklin relics obtained from liim included a mahogany hrtiometer-case, spoons, forks, and a number of other small articles.f But other news received from these strangers was any- thing but gratifying. It effectually ban-ed further progress to King Will- liam's Land for the year 1866. The first words to Nu-ker-^hoo, Mammark, and Ar-mou told the loss of their friends and relatives some years before by starv- ation, murder, anu canni- balism. This was followed by such accounts of the i FliANKI.lN KKI.ICS WITH HALI/h PENHO. dangers awaiting them if they Avent on to Pelly Bay and Ook-goo-lik, as to throw a damper on the ^^■h()le party except Hall himself. The old chief said that a very old and infirm man on removing to Ook-goo-lik had been immediately nuir- dercd with his whole family ; that very i-ecently there had been fights among the Neit-tee-lik Innuits for a woman, and one of them had been *Tlit' iiipauing of this word is not given hy Hull ; nor is that ."Ma-my-too-niifr-toy-niud). iJoii. ) t Afterward donated liy Hall to the Smithsonian Iimtitnti^ rocord : Tlu'.si' iirc tlu' iiiorlal n'lnaiii.s of Uttlc \\\\\^ William, (lu^ only rliild of Kitit'i'ltiii^ and Too koo li too, tho iiiti'r])n>terH of \\w last FiaiiUliii Itcscarcli E\- ]n>(litioii. Deposited liere May 1.5, 1S(»(», tlu^ day of its death, (lod liath it.s .s«)ul now anil will keep it iVoni all liann. — 1'. F. IIai.j., Maij It, l.S(i(». This ho placed within tho fur caj) e()verinj>- tho lit^ad of tho child, and roturninw/-wf his pups had been sufi'ocated l>y its niotlmr lying upon it, and that, failing to lick it into life, she had eat(!n it for her breakfast. On the l!)th, he found she had repeated the act, a few bloody spots only remaining to tell the tale 'I'his left him but five of the litter, the birth of which had given him liope of eflfi(;ient aid on his next journey. He had to handle this mother black dog and her pups him- self, as the Iimnits, through some superstitious notions, were unwill- ing to feed or to harness them. At 8 15 p. m. of this day the party began a ftu'ther advance, j)n»- ferring to travel at night, and averaging two and a half miles per hour, until twenty minutes past midnight. On leaving the small lake on which they had made their thirty-fifth encampment, April 19, deviat- ing now from the route of that date, they crossed a blufl^" the descent of which being- very abrupt was swifth' made by the loaded sledges themselves, when the teams, which had been doubled up for the ascent, were successfully detached. On the 21st, the party got back as far as the Lower Narrows, heretofore noticed as a (leer-cross- ing, and on the 22d, they made the forty-ninth encampmeTit on the same spot between Christie and North Pole Lake which they had occupied on the 5th of April. At this })lace See-pung-er arrived, to the surprise of all, with his family. He had been working hard to rejoin the party since being- separated from them at the forty-sixth 268 Arrival at Beacon Hill. [mar. IN60. iVI *■. : iU oiicnmpment. His sled was found to be very heavily loaded; for, besides his household goods, it had on it two cumbrous ki-a frames, one of which was made entirely from a boat of the Franklin I'^xpedi- tion, and the sledge itself from a mast of Captain Ross's " Victory." In the midst of a howling storm, he was promptly supplied with an armful of took-too meat. The next day, in company with Nuker- zhoo and his family, he again left Hall for a time. On the 23d, the journey down the North Pole Lake was made swiftly by the use of a tent for a sail to the sledges, assisting the poor hungry dogs; the sled itself sometimes getting in advance of them. I'^bierblng and She-nuk-shoo traveled beside the sledge to guide it. During the evening, from three and a half to four miles an hour were made by sail only, and at fifteen minutes past 8 a. m. of the 24th, Hall revisited his boat Sylvia and his stores deposited at the base of Beacon Hill, March 31st, and to the record he had then placed on the Sylvia on leaving this point, he now added an inscription summing up the obstacles met with on the journey and his plans for renewing it. He had the satis- faction to find that Ou-e-la had been faithful to his promise of that date, to take from the hill the half-barrel containing the records, and protect them from any strange Innuits. It seemed plain from the snow-tracks that some of Ou-e-la^s friends had been recently at the hill, and Ar-mou went off to find him. The notes of the 25th read thus : To-day uiy King William party was ended, for the present at least. This, of conr.se, was iu conespoiideuce to the natural course of passing events. Our separation was, however, for this reason : I desire to remain here a few days, and try and do some writing, recounting the important matter I have gained of the Pelly Bay natives relative to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, Ebier- bing, Too-koo-li-too, Mam-mark, and her little son remaining here with me. On tfi: >, .Ilnr, IN00.1 Hall ivill Renew his Journey. 269 tlio n^tiini of the sii(!(!t'>s.sfiil tooJc-too piirty of tliis day, I invited all the men into iny kom-montf, and there I served each with moderate drinlvH of capital jjood Hourbon whi.sky. VV^e talked, smoked, and drank — talked, smoked, and drank till every heart Mt that it should be friendly to everybody. One matter is worthy of record : all the men of my party are still determined to accompany mo next si)ring, when I i)nrpose to try again. It would seem, however, that this last statement was directly against the experience of the 5th of the month which has been re- corded ; for, on that day, every one of Hall's companions except Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too had insisted on his return. Nu-lcer-zhoo (Jack) particularly had shown the white feather even while standin; V '/ /A Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 873-4503 ^ ! ^!' , ' 'i. H vK ' 1 trifll III .; i p HAPTER J7- JOURNEYS AROUND REPULSE BAY, SUMMER-LIFE, AND THIRD WINTER. JUNE, 1«66. TO FEBRUARY, 1867. ■.:il, >A T' ■A in • ii;; . tP •-t^A-».^'..W -t.-k'^' I -.'it^I-^r.alAi^ CHAPTER IX. m J ;« Conditions neckssahy for a new journey — Experience with the natives of Pki-ly Bay— Arrival of the tride at E-nook-siioo-j.ik— ITali. goes out to meet them— Kkcei'tion OF their an-ge-ko— Their story of the white man's monument at Shak-too— 'Jiie tin cup with I'AI'ER IN IT WHICH WAS THROWN AWAY— THE SKICLETONS ItY THE JIOSU- ment— The superstitions of itiese people- Hai-l accused oi' brixgixc. sickness among them— The hanging of the old chief and ins wife by their son "to take THEM TO THE HAPPY LAND"— HaLL KEEPS THE PEACE BETWEEN THE PeLLY 13aY AND THE Repulse Bay nati%es— Seitlks some old feuds in his tipik— His SLi;i)fiE journeys FOR SURVEY OF THE BAY — EMBARRASSMENTS IN HIS WORK — DEATH t)F OU-E-La's WIFE— Ill-treatment of women — Arrival of the whalers— Hali- requests them to spario MEN FRO.M THEIR CREWS FOR HIS NEXT JOURNEY — His ASSISTANCE TO THE CAPTAINS— The ships decide Tt> WINTER IX THE BAY — HaLL EXCAMPS NEAR THEM IX NOVEMBER — IXTEI!- COURSE THROUGH THE WINTER — TlIE CAPTAINS WIIJ- NOT LET THE INNUITS FURNISH HIM WITH DOGS. "Disappointed but not discouraged"; — yet Hall, when writing- this, had a full consciousness that at least nine months must be passed before he could set his face again toward Ki-ki-tuk for the Records. He had tvirned back from Colvile Bay, as has been noted, with the words above, written down in his notes in sorrow, but with an unbroken purpose. The experience of the sledge journey had satis- fied him that he nuist try to org-anize his party more wisely, if he would secure even partial success ; and he looked forward with the hope of obtaining assistance for this from the whalers when they should come into the bay. The alternatives before him were either to S. Ex. 27- -18 27:{ ■l,^ i 'nil ll! 1 II 1 1 j^D* mMi \ ^ 1 Id \ ^m ' 1 ^ p in Ipi Ifi?. 274 Plans for the Next Year. |Jnn«, IN«e. g'ain this help or to return with them to the United Stutes. But the latter of these is not named in the journals of that season. For a renewed advance he had fully decided that he must have the services of several armed white men as a guard, and he knew as well that he must secure full provision for a long journey and at least one good dog-team. To procure the dogs might prove to be his hardest work. For either one or both of these objects, he would be dejjendent on the further continuance of good-will between himself and the Re- pulse Bay natives and between them and the Pelly Bay men ; for, as these men had already caused his own Eskimos to turn back at the very point from which he had been ready to cross to King William's Land, it was clear that, even if no hostile attack were made, the same intimi- dations brought to bear upon any new party might arrest its work. Among the Neitchilles a guard might be a necessity. That the Pelly Bay men were, as Mam-mark had told him, '*a queer people, doing many strange things," came out very plainly in their intercourse from the day of their again meeting with Hall and his natives. See-jning-er, who had been the first to overtake the return party on their journey, Avas quickly the occasion of an appre- hension that he would bring out an old feud with them ; for no sooner had he met with his first success in the use of a gun, than he was heard to sa^^ it would be a good thing to kill Innuits with as well as deer. He proved to be a careless fellow, too, in using the weapon, and Hall felt sure that if his men could prevent it, Sec-pung-cr would never be allowed to carry it back to his own country. The rest of the Pelly Bay men were willingly delayed some time on their journey b}' a long musk-ox hunt. Their coming down to E-nook-shoo-lik, where Hall made his fifty-second encampment, on f'l Jnnr, 18«6.] The Pellji Bay Natives Arrive. 275 the 10th of June, excited new fears. He had come over from his quiet rest at Fort Hope, wliero lie had much desired to make up the the notes of his late sledge journey, hecause the luuuits had repre- sented that they must move nearer the whaling grounds before the disappearance of the snow and ice should tnke from them the means of transporting their boats and sledges. To be at hand for the capture of whales was also what he most desired for himself, in order to further his plans for securing the services of the white men. A few days after his coming down, an alarm was given that strangers were seen in the distance, and Oorig-oo-too, harnessing up his dogs, drove Hall rapidly over the sea-ice to meet them. At 1 1 p. m. they were found at a time when in trouble at crossing a fissure in the ice; their driver, taking Hall's advice to pull his dogs back from the slush in which they were plunging, crossed over readily a little nearer the encampment. The old chief Kolc-lee-arng-niin and his followers renewed cordial greetings with Hall's party. Their teams were joined and sledges formed in line, and a triple team fol- lowed into E-nook-shoo-lik by a motley group, made up of sixteen men, women, and children. The hvillik women then marched up singly behind the Pelly Bay an-ge-lco, and hung, each, some odd article, as a bead, a piece of took-too fringe, or an old razor upon his jacket ; the an-ge-ko himself raising his eyes solemnly upward and now and then extending his right arm. Each Innuit took one or more of the strangers into his tupik, Hall having for his guest his old friend Kok- lee-arng-nun ; after whicli, festivities followed during some days, includ- ing a mock musk-ox hunt, in which men and boys, wearing the skins of the animals, were tiercel}' hunted by other men and dogs. But throughout the reception, each of the Pelly Bay men had . ■ ■- r :' . . 'ij: ;' 1 '■I ■:f:| i ] "■; ■ Vr m 276 Sec-pnnger's Story. [Jniio, iseo. ke})t full in .si * " fK. Ve; Jily^^ Be*- ■o 1 >-->JvJ;^ ■ -R.KPU.ISE ^*-,' HAY r SKETCH OF A ^ 'J. n<:pm.sE bay a-. ) ** f3 \\y the Iinmit Ou-e-la > Drawn June 9'" IHGO ^ 1 'J*i^l , .•jLxiiL -■' i;.' ■^. ■-•■*--^- ' ^-- -»- . !' ! :l ^Sl !i^ ,4 ]■% tfi : II: : W ■- I \ M"M\ t;6'"jo hr«run 66'10' #Tf)ll...n\N ! rroniiiiiTit Hil fMMVushingion HALL'S JOURNEYS IN 1866 86°40' Drawn /.V.I l.indfiihpfU 1! 1 'i i i i i i '•/ - 1 « ■ i i ' ! ■ ii ■'?' " ' Sfi.'O sivoo 8G":o .St. UO S.^''^)' July, IH06.I Hall Beijins Ills Survey of Itvpidsc Hay. 279 6t'3(i'' fiCCol witli tho Polly li.iy men, he luul crossed froMi Iwillik to tho wost side of the bay, to a jjoint where he discovei'ed si rivei* of which the Iiinuits hiid often s})oken, and which he now named Grinnell River; it was found to be as larg'e as the North Pole River of Dr. liao Oii-c-la, wishing to visit his wife's f^rave on Tee-kee-ra, was Hall's doj^-driver, and with his usual success killed several seals on the journey. Tho travel was difficult; they had a small sled and a small team; and the snow was tracked with blood from the feet of the dogs, made sore by the hard and sharj) roughnesses of the ice-crystals on the floes. The travelers themselves had a shelter for the night within a snow wall 18 inches in height, across which they stretched their blankets. While Ou-c-la was on his hunt, ITall liad to make his lunch on the vermin dug out from underneath the deer-skins. Astronomical obser- vations gave for the position of Tee-kee-ra, latitude 6G° 26'. On the 14th of the month he began from E-noo-shoo-lik his long desired attempt to sketch a full outline of the coast for his friends the whalers ; hoj)ing thus to tempt their more frequent visits to the bay. He had for his companions only two Innuit boys, Oot-pilc and She-nuk- shoo, who were to bo drivers and hunters. With these he started first for Fort Hope. On the first day, the chronometers were injured by the breaking of the tie while passing over very rough floes. The dogs suffered imich from sore feet ; one of them falling into a crack in the ice was saved only by the use of a lasso. The second day was divided between surveying and an advance on the route. But after a halt to secure a deer, the travel was con- tinued until 3 a. m. of the 16th, when they reached the banks of North P(de River. On the last i)art of their route the melted snow had been found in some places standing to the depth of three feet on the ice ; -i^ •■■f !:s ■^ Drawn ii\ A Linfffnkofii 280 Journeys Around Bepulse Bay. [Sulr, 1866. the dogs with great difficulty dragged the sled through. Hall sent his boys off to hunt, and occupied the next two days in surveys made from Beacon Hill, from which place the coast of Southampton Island again loomed up by refraction. Renewing his journey and arriving again at Tee-kee-ra, he busied himself in renewed observations for position, in taking sextant-angles and compass-bearings, and in sketching the coast-line. In such work the time passed far more swiftly than while housed by the storms which had swept over his igloo. The boys proved to be good hunters for deer and for ducks, but failed to secure a single seal by their invariably bursting into a loud laugh when getting near the .animals. To help their seal-training, he afterward made for each a shield like those used by the Greenlanders. When he was back at E-nook-shoo-lik the whole party of the Innuits had gone off, leaving no sign whatever to tell the white man where to find them. Hastening to Ships' Harbor Islands, he found no traces of them, and returned to E-nook-shoo- lik to spend two days more in his surveys. Having crossed next to Sheg-lua, at the head of the bay but still without success in his search, on the 28th he set out for Oog-la-ri-your Island, making a diffi- cult journey, but finding his old friends about five miles from the island. The boys were the first to see the tupiks on the shore. Ebier- bing and Too-koo-li-too had been persuaded by the others to go off with some friends for a short deer-hunt. The next sledge trip was to Rock Knob ; thence to Pi-tik-tou-yer Heights, and, finally, back to the neighborhood of E-nook-shoo-lik, during which journeys and up to August 3 the observations and sketching of the coast-line were con- tinued. These had not been made without trying experiences. The AuRUHi, 1860.1 Serious Obstacles in Surveyin<). 281 cliiinging temperatures of tlie past seasons had cracked the silvering in many places on the mirrors of his sextant, and rapid and unaccount- able changes appeared in the index corrections. His compass often changed so rapidly that no dependence ^^'as placed on its readings ; and excessive refraction shut out some points of land and brought new ones prominently in view. "At times an island seemed to rise and fall as if an earthquake were at work." In the day-time, radiation often forced his work into the night; but the Innuits made much use of the night for their work and their boisterous festivities; and by staying up all night and sleeping all day, created for him stich an uncertainty of time that he sometimes forgot to wind his chronometers, and was perplexed when writing \v^ his notes. Overcoming his difficulties and annoyances so far as he coidd, he began the sketch of the bay, of which the accompanying maj) represents the line as found completed during the later years of his stay. The journeys were not without some incidents of interest. At Pi-tik-tou-yer, he found a well-built circular stone wall 30 feet in diameter. It was an old camping-ground, showing many Eskimo remains, and offering inducements to any one whose mind was not, like his, absorbed in other purposes, to remain for its full exploration. Incidents of a different character, however, now filled up all the hours of thought not given by Hall to his main work. This seems plain from the extreme fullness of his notes when setting down the con- tinued annoyances to which he was still subjected. The iron rule of Innuit customs, already often referred to as hindering his plans, seems to have stretched itself out before him as though it must touch some- where every purpose which he might form. It were useless to specify such cases, a number of which will be found in future chapters ; a i .i| 282 Death of Queen Emma. [Aagnat, 18«0. m ■'< single incident of interest may }'e here noted. On the 1st of July, Ou-e-la, the chief, lost his only remaining wife, known under the name of Queen Emma. The poor creature had been very harshly treated through a long sickness, having been refused nutritious food at a time when it might have saved her life, and again refused when charged, through jealousy, with giving premature birth to a child without in- forming her husband of it. She was accounted guilty through the decree of the an-ge-ho, which shut out all protestations of innocence from herself and her mother; and the maledictions poured upon her by the ignorant of the village had helped to hasten her death. Her suffer- ings were another proof of the indifference and hard-heartedness found habitually to prevail toward the women ; other instances fre- quently occurring, as in the case of See-pung-er's wife, compelled to walk more than sixty miles, with a ky-alc on her head and a child of three yeff vs in her hood, though herself in a delicate condition * The death of Queen Emma gave Hall some annoyance, because Ou-e-la^s old enmity against the Pelly Bay men was now revived by the declar- ation of the an-ge-ko that k was their coming which had caused it. But some relief for all !his was at hand. His health, which had been somewhat broken, was restored. The season had been almost *The degraded condition of women in coiintries not under the influence of Christianity is too well known to need comment. The chief ot a tribe near the Mackenzie expressed the com- mon feeling of Northern savages when he said : "Women were made for labor. One of them can can-y or haul as much as two men can do. They also pitch our tents, make and mend our clothing, keep us warm at night ; and, in fact, there is no such thing as traveling any considerable dieitauce, or for any length of time, in this country without their assistance. Though they can do everything, they are maintained at a trifling expense ; for as they stand cook, the very licking of their fingers in scarce times is sufficient fw their subsistence." — (Hearne's Journey to the North Ocean, p. 54.) Compare with this their condition in Central Australia: "While husband, father, or brother is feasting on the game which she has cooked, a wife or sister thinks herself fortunate if now and tlien a nearly-cleaned bone or a piece of scorched meat is tossed to her as to a dog. — Wood's Uncivilized Races. ) '1* August, JSttO.J News from Home. 283 uninterruptedly pleasant ; during- the nights the thermometer had not fallen below 40°, ranging during the day between 48^ and 57°. His Innuit friends, from whom lie had at one time separated himself, were not really estranged from him, and Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too stood, as over, steadfastly close. The relief came on the last days of the month, when the first whale of the season was heard to blow ; and better still, when refraction brought up from the ice-horizon the forms of three ships under full sail. It was not a mirage of disappointment. A boat from the Pioneei', Captain Morgan, of New London, in a few hours pushed off to hail Hall from the shore; and it cannot be thought unmanly in him to have i-ecorded that he answered this salutation in tears. The sight once more of a single friend, from the midst of his firmest friends, was a full overmatch for all the roughness that had been forced upon his nature by the ignorant and the degraded. To complete the pleasur- able change, several other vessels soon came to Ships' Harbor Islands, and the Black Eagle brought to him letters from Mr. Grinnell. From Messrs. Harpers, his publishers, they brought a copy of the "Arctic Researches," the preface of which volume had been dated " On Board the Bark Monticello, June 30, 1864," and its last proof-corrections sent from the ship when just leaving the harbor of St. John's, with the indorsement, "All well and in good spirits, bound for the glorious North." Mr. Grinnell sent the following letter from Lady Franklin to Mr Cornelius Grinnell : Upper Gove Lodge, October 18, 1865. My Dear Cornelius: I return your father's letter with many thanks. Please thank him from [nie] for his kind remembrance of the deep interest I feel in all these researches of his brave and adventurous protef/e, and ask him to con- 284 Letter from Lady Franklin. f AugUKl, IM06. tiiiuo Kciuliiig me all \\w iiilbriniition he jjots. No one, e.sj)ccially no one of the Arctic oflit'crs, ciui be inditt'orent to tlie news, bnt lliey sec the ]>ainfnl side of the matter as well as the other. It is our liouiulcn duty, as it is an iini)etuous in- stinet, to rescue tiieni if possible, even though we may i >el shocked as at the sight of skeletons rising in their winding-sheets from ilie tombs; but the hitter impression seems among peo])le in general to be the prevailing one. It is felt that they, or Ac, would return, after a death of near twenty years, to a world that he knows not, in which the loved were ge liead of tlie bay marked "Unexplored." Captain Mor- gan's observations gave ground for hope that a new cbainiel might be found. Later in the season, by advice from Hall of what Parry and Lyon had said of the whales found in Gore Bay and Lyon's Inlet, and from what the natives also said of this, a boat was sent into those waters from each of the vessels, but without success. The parties sent out to hunt for sup])Hes for the ships were gen- erally diligent and successful. One of these, after killing six deer, re- turned without Ebierbing; on their reporting which, Hall immediately went back with them, and found his lost man at the head of the uay. He had been too busy in the hunt to keep sight of his companions, and was well satisfied that he would be sent for; but he had had the pleasant experience of finding a wolf upon his track, to escape from which he had to wade into a lake and remain there until he tired out the animal's watch. Hall and his party heavily loaded themselves with Ebierbing's venison, but on their way to the boat, Hall was nearly choked by the string which held his pack catching tight under his chin. Another party of six men and three boys, sent out for the double purpose of killing deer, and, if possible, a whale, secured a whale, cached the blubber and brought back the bone from the head. From its length — 9 feet 6 inches from the butt to the end of the hair — Hall judged that sixty barrels of oil could be made from the blubber. The whale's whole length was 60 feet. By the 1st of September, with the help of Ebierbing, Ar-mou, and two other natives, he finished gumming, washing and preparing the bone of this whale and what remained of the one killed the year before. A part of the bone belonging to him had been carried off from the October. iN««.] Atixioushf AtvaUinff. 287 shore by some of tlio sailors and not cntiroly restored. Makiiij^ up his remaining ju'operty into eighteen bnndles, tied with rope-hishings and a three-stranded braid woven by Mam-mat% he phiced on board the Ansell Gibbs a weight of about 1 ,500 pounds, to be sold on the return of the ship to the United States. But the whalers were not to return that season. The meager results of their cruises were now forcing the four ships, the Black Eagle, Ansell Gibbs, Concordia, and Glacier, to remain out another year; and their captains were soon to choose between their winter- ing in this bay or else at Marble or at Depot Island. The choice between these was of the utmost moment to Hall. If the decision should be to winter at the places last named, none of the crews could be spared to him until the ships should have passed through another year. To go down with them, as invited, might possibly give him the opportunity of learning something of Crozier from the natives of Chesterfield Inlet, for there were rumors of their having seen him. And yet to remain where he was, if the ships left him, was of little promise, since his next journey was dependent entirely on his getting the men he needed, and he was unable to effect the arrangement by which he proposed to substitute for such as might be left with him an equal number of Eskimos; the natives themselves, with but one excep- tion, were unwilling to go. But if the vessels should winter in the bay, he would have the five men who might volunteer for the spring months at the wages of $50 per month, and with these he hoped to make his journey to King William Land, return before the next whal- ing season was over, and be in the United States in the fall of 1867. lie waited for the decision of the captains with no little anxiety. Returning to Beacon Hill and erecting his tupik on the same spot li 28« /fall linilils an Iff loo Nrnr the Ships. iiv«»rmb»r. in6«. i;; m m. wlicro Uao liiul liis tents in 1847, liis piirty snot'coded within tho next nine diiyH in killinj^ forty-ono deer, bnt conipliiined tluit tho uniniala were why jind liad kept oil" tho coaHt. 'V\w criKping- of tlie snow under loot was heard by the deer a long way oft', and Hall liitnHelf had very little success, for when taking aim, his excitement was such that ho invariably failed. Ho does not give his reasons for finding himself under the influence of this "buck-fever"; they may bo almost in- ferred from what has been just written. His right oye had suffered some injury from his having neglected to use the colored glasses when taking his sextant observations; yet he made daily tramps from twelve to fifteen miles in tho hunts. Under the anxieties which have been named and the rumor that the ships were to winter at Marble Lsland in the middle of the month, he again visited the Ansell Gibbs. The harbor was already filled with heavy ice, and tho ships were constantly employed in keeping them- selves free; but the decision as to the place of winhiing had not yet been made. On his return, before reaching Iwillik, ho met with a severe storm which nearly capsized the Sylvia, and in landing he was gale-bound for three days, soon after which Ebierbing became danger- ously ill, continuing sick the whole of the following month. Hall seldom left him. His chief trials, however, seemed now about to end. The cap- tains decided they would remain in the bay, and he had volunteers for his next journey. For carrying out his plans, therefore, and for a closer social intercourse, on the 24th of November, he moved near the ships, building for himself an ifjloo on one of the small islands of the group within which the whalers had anchored (No. 1 of the map of Ship's Harbor Island). Intercourse with the ships then became still more cordial. T. iH«».i Till' Whiter in an f(/loo Nmr thv Whalers. 289 The aniUHcmmntH so uecdsMury to sustiiiii tlit* clioorluliH's.s und the hoaUh of oflicors Jind inoii Juriiij^ the tedious rigors of uu Arctie winter, were fully maintained on board. A dres.s ball was given on the 29th, which was kept by the New England captains as Thanksgiving Day. In another, on New Year's eve, when some of the crow and a few of the Innuit women were dressed like civilized ladies, Hall had to make his choice between dancing and speech-making; preferring the former, ho led oflF with the first mate of the ship The captains always held a seat in reserve for him at their '\ffaninnnfjs" — yarn-spinnings, chfitting, and smoking ; he reciprocated these liospitalities by sharing with his friends the stores lately received from Mr. Grinnell and by liberal gifts of skin-clothing. But while passing through these enjoyments noth- ing diverted his attention from his main purpose of selecting the volun- teers he needed. Quite a number offered themselves; and on shore he began the instruction of those whom he accepted by setting them at work to dig out snow-drifts, and by sending them at different times with his Eskimos to bring in meat from the deposits. Tie now thought that ho had full reason to expect that when the stormy season had passed, he could make with these men a second sledge journey with success. Strange as it might seem to any one but Hall, for these two and a half months he still lived in his snow-hnt, in daily sight and sound of the ships, which were now comfortably housed for the winter ; and this although his very frequent invitations to their warm and hospita- ble cabins wan-ant the belief that he might have taken up his quarters on board. But he declares that he could not rest with ease unless in his igloo. It was his own ; he could write up his notes in it and study his Arctic books. His plans for the next season, too, were again ab- S. Ex. 27 10 2f)0 Men Seairrd, but a Team Wanih/ff. IFfbrunrr. IHOr. sorbing liis thoughts. Even the pack of wolves which swept over liis ifjloo near the ships, carrying off one of the dogs, is spoken of in liis journal as though it had happened as an ordinary occurrence, and as tliough it were in the lonesomeness of Beacon Hill or among the In- nuits at Noowook. He would not depart from his rough Arctic diet ; nor in any other way unfit himself for the mission to which he still thought himself called. But this was again suddenly arrested. Be- fore the first month of the new year closed, he found that he could not possibly make up a dog-team for a new journey. He might lose a whole third year, but this, at any sacrifice, he must endeavor to pre- vent : now that volunteers are engaged, he must secure the dogs. -1^ 1 p HAPTER /• SLEDGF. JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK FOR DOCJS. FEBRUARY 7 TO APRIL 1, 1|{G7. V hi if< fji ^F - ' ;si m CHAPTER X. COUNTEIt-CI-AlMH ON TllK INNUITS 1 Oil TIIEIU DOGS— IIALI- DKTKUMIAKS TO MAKE A SLKDGE JOUU- NEY TO l(i-LOO-LlK TO PURCHASE HIS OWN TEAM— LEAVES SlIIPs' HaRHOR ISLANDS rEBUU- ARY 7 — First delays— Ou-e-la loses his way— Provisions iiecome scauce— 'J'hk MOUTHS of THE DOGS TIED UP TO PREVICNT TIIEIU EATING THE HARNESS— AM-I-1()IvI'; Rl'.ACHED, HUT NO NATIVES FOUND — OU-E-LA ACCUSES IIaLL OF BRINGING HIM TO STAiaA- TION — IG-LOO-LIK REACHED ON THE 27TH— PURCHASE OF DOGS — VISIT TO TERN ISLAM), TO PaRRY''s flag-staff— OU-E-LA PUTS A WIDOW AND HER HOUSEHOLD GOODS ON Till; RE- TURN SLED — Hall puts her off on the ice — Starts back with anothicr native as DRIVER— OU-E-LA'S HAD CONDUCT ON THE RETURN — HaLL AGAIN SIGHTS THE SHIPS ON THE ;!Oth of March — The captains now refuse to let hiji have the jien for his .JOURNEY. Dogs enough could be found among the natives. They owned sixty-eight ; a number sufficient for nine or ten ordinary teams. Hall had several dogs of his own, ard asked but thirteen, to make up the two teams he needed. He had anticipated no difficulty in securing these, for he had just claims upon the natives, as he had bargained for such as he would ask for, and really paid for the larger number in tobacco and other articles. But the captains of the four vessels unitedly ihlor- posed. They insisted that not a single dog should be permitted by the Innuits to go on this journey; claiming that they "had fed these people through the winter, and hud as yet no opportunity of receiving much in return. The natives would soon need all their dogs in sled- ding blubber and bone from the open water to the ships and the time 293 If ^(11 21)4 i/«// 7?f^ Id a Loriji Journey. (Vcbruary, 1867. of Hall's return from Iiis proposed journey might be beyond the open- ing- of the season. Tlien, men and dogs nnist be actively employed to increase, if possible, the jjoor returns of the past year." Hall could not even get one of his own dogs, which he had put in Ook-har-loo\s trust on returning from the last sledge journey. He was the more surprised at this issue, because the use of the teams was as clearly within the ideas of the conversations held in the winter, as was his selection of the white men, which had met the approval of the cap- tains ; if any difficulty on this point had arisen in these conversations some trace of it would be found in his full notes Helpless to enforce claims upon the natives, who were fully willing to keep their promises, he determined to make a sledge trip to Am-i-toke, or perhaps to Ig-loo- Hk, even in the very depth of the Avinter, to buy his teams. The jour- ney might be one of more than three hundred miles ; but another year could not be lost. The captains cordially supplied him with articles of barter, which, within the next few days, he carefully arranged, making up also his stores for the trip. Sending his white men to one of the deposits to get whale-meat for the dog-food, he fed the men on their return with whale-skin, remarking in his notes that he had edu- cated them until they really liked raw, frozen meat, and adding that, perhaps with these very men, on his next voyage, D. V., he would push his discoveries to the North Pole. His thoughts had been on such a voyage during the past season. It had been discussed with the whalers, and he had openly avowed his intention to organize an expedition to the Pole as soon as he had completed his present mis- sion ; he held this voyage in mind when examining the volunteers for his present journey. After waiting the return of some of the natives from a trip made li Vebrunry, IH07. The Days Upset the Sled. 295 to Lyon's Inlot for door-meat, by tlio 7tli of" the month he hsul .secured fourteen doj^^'s, and left Ships Harbor Ishmds for Tj^-hto-hk. The tem- perature was 40° bek)\v zero.* Ebierbing' and Too-koo-li-too, for rea- sons not named, wore left behind, and Frank Lailor, one of the white men, was ])lacod in cliarge of his ifjloo. Ou-c-ln, with his wife and half-breed child and the boy Oot-pilc, were his only companions. Arriving opposite I'itiktouyor, Ou-e-la, agreeably to Inmiit custom, wont on shore to 2)ay a visit to the grave of his hrother, Shoo-shc-arh-nook, and here the first trying delay was met with; for after a night in an i/jloo, they already missed one of the dogs and found two oth- ers to be useless. A return to the shijis became necessary. But another delay was occa- sioned by the dog-lines bo- coming entangled ; on which ukau-tooth, used as a T.xaiLK. the dogs were detached from the pe-to, but before being again fast- ened to the sled, they had roughly dragged Hall and Oot-jnk along for some distance. This, however, was but a renewal of former experiences ; for Hall had more than once known the dog-teams pull well for a little while, then suddenly wheel around and overturn him and his driver. The remedy had been, to jump in among them and pound away with the hatchet until they were made tractable. The pe-to, on which so much depended, was the line, made of heavy walrus or seal skin which fastened the dog-traces to the forward part of the sledge-runners: * It cortiiiiily iiiiirku Htroii};; resolution and conrnf^o in Hall to undertake tliis uortlieru trip in Fcbriiiinj. Ca|>tain Nare.s' (R. N.) Judf^uient in, tliat, unless lor tlu^ jiurpose of saving lite, no one should lie ealled upon to undergo the I'earl'ul privations of an Arctic sledge journey during March or oven in the early i)art of April. — (Nan-ative of a Voyage to the Polar .Sea, lH7tt.) 296 Journey to Lj-loo-lik. IFcbruarjr, 1867. passed tlirougli ivoiy eyelets at tlie end of the traces, its ends were bound togetlier by a toggle. When Hall returned, he found that the captains were on a fishing excursion upon a lake seven miles distant. He had to send to them a request for their consent to get other dogs ; he slept that night in his old igloo with Lailor, and the next day rejoined Ou-e-la; his team had already traveled sixty-two miles since their first leaving the ships. On the 10th, they passed up the river at the mouth of which they had built their first igloo, and after crossing valleys filled with deep snow, and ascending a very steep hill, built their second hut upon a little lake. Ou-e-Ms child had already proved an an- noyance by its constant whining and insatiable clamor for bread. On the 11th, Ross Bay was crossed, in which was observed a tide- hole, half a mile in length, that smoked like a coal-pit. Seals were sporting in it. The day following, they came to an igloo occupied by a party of Inimits, which Ar-mou^s brother, with a team of seven dogs, was conducting toward Am-i-toke ; one of the boys of this party, Ttik- kee-li-ke-ta, was the son of Ag-loo-ka,* a native who was said to have exchanged names with Parjy.f An inlet was crossed which was not found on Parry's chart. [For the route see Map, Capter XII.] On the 13th, when passing an advance-deposit made by these natives, Ou-e-la liberally helped himself from it to whale and deer meat. The next day, he seemed to have lost the way, wandering about over low ground until, night coming on, he built an igloo on a small pond which was found to be frozen solid. During the whole of the * Spoken of by Parry as being ten years old when mot by bim. (Journal, 1821-'23, p. 367.) tTlic name Ay-loo-ka appears in Hall's notes as in use by the lunuits at one time I'or Uoss, at another for Crozier, and here for Parry ; it seems to be a generic term for an offleer in command. February, 1 8U7. 1 Sevcrc Truils. 2l>7 15th and 16th, the party were gale-bound, but the time was not wholly lost; then' bedding and clothing were dried in different ways, the clothing by wearing it in bed ; Hall's boots were taken in, one at a time, and kept under his jacket, close to his person. A heavy coating of frost showed itself between his two jackets, for the temperature had been 80° below zero. The stock of provisions was now getting low, bringing fear of a want of food before they could })ossibly renew their supplies ; nor was it at all certain that they would find natives at Am-i-toke. If they did not, they must hunt walrus out on the drifting ice, and thence push on to Ig-loo-lik. Thus far, they had lived almost wholly on dog-food, their only good provision having been four saddles of venison and twenty pounds of sea-bread, with a little coffee, sugar, and tea ; raw whale meat, skin, and blubber made their substantial working diet. Nothing had been cooked but a little coffee or tea, and in this cook- ing, in making drinking water, and in drying their clothing, they had consumed two gallons of whale-oil ; Hall's native lamp was about half hall's LAMl'. the usual size. An entrance-way to their igloo, 30 feet in length, made of three united oval igloos, had been built, that the dogs might be protected from the storm ; for the less they were exposed, the less hungry and. poor would they become. They were sometimes fed freely from the whale-beef, a chunk of a hundred and fifty pounds Trn^ 298 The IJofja roorljj Fed. IVrbrunry, I8«7. MH fel-i Ifi of wliich wiM given to tlio hunf>Ty beasts, who had already broken into the storeliouse,- and twice nearly eaten up their harness. Awaking- at one o'clock the next morning-, Hall pulled his ther- mometer into the hjloo by a string, and found that the temperature was 30° below zero. Looking through the hole, he observed that the wind had died away, the sky was clc- ir, and the moon was shining brightly. Filling his coffee-pot then with ice, he hung it over the fire- lamp, and, after resting for an hour or more, made his coffee, packed up, and again started. Oii-e-la^s child a second time proved very trou- blesome, causing repeated '-alts ; but by evennig Hall had advanced about twenty-two miles, when the party built an if/loo large enough to bring within it all their goods for safety from the dogs, which had be- come yet more savage, for even while feeding, the fierce brutes were with difficulty controlled. In the morning, when the tyloo was un- sealed, they rushed into the passage-way, wedging Oot-pik in it so tight that he could not move, and was released only after Ou-e-la and Hall had finished pounding them out of the hut. On the 18th and 19th, he was again gale-bound; his notes express his feelhigs in the words " Too bad ; but God overrules all." The food on this day was of stinking ook-gooJc and whale-meat of a greenish tint, buttered with strong whale-blubber. Oa-e-la thought it would take at least five days yet to reach Am-i-toke — discouraging enough, for the plan was to be back at the ships in time to start for King WilUiam's Land March 1 5, but this it now seemed impossible to effect. On the 20th, the temperature was —10° at noon, but the wind was quite strong, and the drifting snow beat fiercely in their faces; yet a steaming cloud of vapor rose from the dogs as tho}^ ran along. Hall thought that if the weather moderated they would not give out vcbruarr. i8«7.i Provisions Exliaustcd. 299 for a low days, althougli tlioir food was nearly gone; but it was found necessary to tie up their mouths to keep them from eating their draught- h'nes as they ran. The second day after this, tlioy wore fed on a httle ook-fjook blubber found in a deposit on the shore of the sea which they had now reached by an advance of twenty-four miles. At one time they had pulled through a gorge 10 feet wide, the quartz walls of wliich were 30 feet high. On the 23d, Am-i-toke was reached, but not a native was to he seen. A journey of four days was yet to be made to Ig-loo-lik. A strong wind now preventing any advance, their igloo on the 24th was built about six miles north of the Ooglit Islands. The next day twenty-three miles were made ; but at night their food was on some walrus-hide, two years old, which Ou-e-lu had found with the blubber at the deposit. On the 2Gth, their breakfast was on the very last of the meat. Hall says they satisfied their hunger by sharpening up their knives in anticipation of the walrus feast they might have that night at Ping-it-ka-lik. One of the dogs had been furiously set upon by the rest, and before being rescued was nearly eaten up; she was lashed in furs on the sledge. Through the whole day Ou-e-la was anxiously on the look-out for natives, climbing every high piece of ice, and looking sharply to discover some sledge-track, but finding none, he began to look the very picture of despair. From the slower progress now making, it seemed to him that Ping-it-ka-lik could not be reached before night, and if it were, they would find no Innuits there. Before long, therefore, he burst out in anger, charging Hall with having brought him and his family into a starving and hope- less condition, and his wife and Oot-pik, catching his spirit, looked as savage, and cried out that they would die from starvation. Hall quieted their fears as best he could, and at night in the igloo gavi; to ■'-i 1 if .'iOO Arrival at Ig-loo-lik. rrbruary, lhU7. each a supper of liot tea, with some of his reinaiirmn(* of them wanted noodles and beads ; the wife of Ark-shank-n asking a noodle for every cliild she had and one more for a child she was expecting. In the evening, this woman and the mother of the nn-f/r-ko entertained Hall with another performance, the woman adding to her share in it the small matter of finding in the head of her boy of fourteen years, a plentiful supply of creepers which she promptly transferred to her mouth. While Hall was witnessing this performance, the dogs ate up most of their harness whicli Oii-e-Iahiid carelessly loft on them. Getting ready to return from the island the next day, ho found that Ou-e-la, without asking leave, Jiad here made an-angements to *Comiuaudcr (now Admiral) McCliiitoek, on his iiiial Kcarcli lor Franklin, IWil), readily boiifrht reindeer outer coatK for a knife eaeli, and liired four EskinioH to build a siiow-liouRO for Ills party at the rate of n n«»cdlc apiece. (Voyage of the Fox, ji. 204.) 304 Presents Made to Hall. innit'h, IS«7. take back with thorn to ]io})ulso liay a wliole faniily, with thoir <»"o<)(ls. Hall's sledge was now driven by Oong-er-look, who liad a light load, bnt was a very poor driver, making- but three and a half miles per hour. At one time he made a mistake, whipping the lash of his whip across Hall's poor face, making it sting woefully; but he quickly cut iwnr noxK ciiaum, k; i.oo uk. ixxfiT M;i;i>i.r.-CA8K, 1((-I,()()-I,IK. INNl'IT KXIFK AND SAW. INNT'lT KNIFE. off the end of the lash, and seemed very sorry for the harnj done. Soon after this accident, a warm fur cap was made up for Hall by one of the Tern Island women. Among other presents to him, which were not a few, were "bone charms," held in high esteem, and a bone- handled knife, which was connected with the sad story of some Cum- berland Inlet natives, whose boats had been crushed in the ice, when march, 1867.] Visit to Parry's Flag-Staff. 305 nearly all of them were starved to death. The knife had been used to scoop the brains out of tlie skulls of those who had been murdered to preserve the lives of the rest. Finding that Ou-e-la seemed deter- mined to take back with him to Repulse Bay the family with whom he had been bargaining, Hall at first resolved to make his own quick return without him, by taking E-nu-men, a native whom he liad engaged on Tern Island, as the driver of a full team for a sledge made of Aoic, with just enough food for six days. He could thus hope to get back in time to leave Repulse Bay for King William's Land by the 1st of April. E-nu-men agreed to go on as fast as he could drive, leav- ing Oii-e-la to come as he pleased. But as the dogs got at this Aow sled and nearly ate it up. Hall concluded that the journey could not be safely made on a sled which might at any moment be devoured by the hungry beasts; nor could Ou-e-la be trusted to bring down the other dogs in season. A tremendous gale, with falling and driving snow, was a further discouragement, the snow being very soft. On the 14th, a visit was made to Ar-lang-nuk, the spot where Parry erected his flag-staff, and then to Turton Bay. He found a pile or collection of stones where the flag-staff was deposited, and says: "On removing the snow, which only partially covered the stones, I found an excavated place in the center of the circular pile. I then lifted out several large stones, which had probably been thrown in when the flag- staff had been taken down. Then I came to disintegrated limestone of such small size that one could hold fifty or sixty pieces in one hand. On removing a mass of this, I came to chips and fragmentary pieces of the flag-staff. After digging down two feet, I came to where the limestones were frozen solid, thus preventing any further research downward. * * * Could I have dug down into the S. Ex. 27- -20 ii If'! ill ^1 306 The Team Made Up. (March, is«r. frozen mass of limestones, I doubt not I could have found the bottle containing the written document which Parry executed and deposited there. * * * f jj^ piles, or collections, of stones about the flag-staff spot are placed in such order as to represent the four cardinal points of the true compass. * * * There is the furrow or trench, now evidently just as distinct as when first made from the sea-coast to the flag-staff spot ; — made in dragging the flag- staff from the sea to where it was raised. This furrow, made in the disintegrated limestone, is of rounded form, and from two to four inches in depth. I was grcflly surprised to find this trench so perfect and unmistakable as to its cause." The name of the land at and around this spot is Koo-pra-look-too. While Hall was visiting a place of such historic interest, he was awaiting the return of Ou-e-la who had been sent off a few miles to get some of the dogs, but after his return, a heavy gale still prevented the setting out for Repulse Bay. He now gathered his teams, and rising at four o'clock in the morning of the next day, he distrib- uted the remainder of his presents and cut up his large sea-chest to give to the men to make their arrows, spears, and harpoons. A stake was then driven down, and the natives were called upon to tie to it all the dogs he had purchased, but he had now one cause of complaint — the only one named as to this people, of whom he speaks as among the kindest and most honest of their race. It was this : One dog was brought, small, earless, and poor; and on its being refused as not the one purchased, further compensation was asked for the one which was then brought forward. The additional pay was given, and this dog proved the best of the team. Having now succeeded in the object for which this severe journey H' . march, 1867.] Betum to the Bay. 307 had been made, he was eager to begin his return to the bay. But, when entirely ready to leave his encampment a few miles from Ig-loo- lik, he found that Oii-e-la had put on the sled a widow and her child, with all her traps; and he was proof against all expostulation as to the delay on the journey which this must cause. Hall then started with Ook-pik and E-nu-men and his family on a Jcoiv sled, and, quickly overtaking Ou-c-la, again remonstrated with him, ordering him to leave the widow behind. Succeeding by bribes in inducing the woman to stay, he finally put her off on the ice, getting the promise of several natives to take care of her return to her friends. But the loss of Ou-e-la.s new wife proved a trouble greater to Hall than to the disap- pointed chief The travel was heavy, the pe-to more than once broke, and some of the dogs were continually straying off; by night an advance of only five miles had been made. The teams were then found to be made up of forty-eight dogs, eighteen of which had been purchased. But as all were not at hand, the whole of the next day was spent in going to find the lost ones. Then, four more of them escaping in the night, Oot-pik went back for them, while the rest of the party pressed on to Ping-it-ka-lik. Here E-nu-men conducted the party to a ridge of limestone, on digging down a foot into which, they found two logs of old walrus, which they lashed on their kow sledge. From this point he chose a route almost always inshore from that by which Hall and Ou-e-la had gone up to Ig-loo-lik, and on this line he crossed a bay on the west side of Fox Channel, extending fifteen miles to the south- west. Hall had not found this bay on Parry^s chart, but did not con- sider this strange, as Parry's was a "marine survey only." From this bay he passed into a lake twenty-five miles in length, lat. 68° 45', long. 82° W., on which lake they made their ifjloo by the side of a ridge of I.' •1; 308 Oti-e-la's Conduct. [narch, iser. ice extending as far as the eye could reacli. Near it, beneath the snow, water was easily obtained, and the frozen kow, placed in this, was thawed in three hours. He now experienced a renewal of the trials which Ou-e-Ia had given him on his route to Igloo-lik. Repeatedly on that journey he had shown a selfish disposition, especially in helping himself most freely to the best of the provision, of which his wife also secretly took a large share At Ig-loo-lik, to Hall's disadvantage, Ou-e-Ia had purchased for himself several dogs, and now, on the homeward route, he proved exceedingly careless of Hall's team, while liberally feeding his own. To this he added an increased exhibition of evil temper, the source of which was probably to be found in his disap- pointment in not obtaining the widow. He had cordially agreed to go on this journey for the very purpose of adding to the number of his wives, but Hall, when consenting to this, had not anticipated that he would bring down a family with all their goods. His evil conduct reached its worst on the 2 2d, when he took advantage of Hall's sick- ness from continunl living on walrus-meat, to feast himself and wife more than once, refused a fair supply of food to either Hall or Oot-jnk, and subjected the white man, in his feeble state, to the most menial services. He ordered him to bring in the snow-water for drinking, and, with other services, to put the kow sledge on top of the iffloo when it was necessary to keep it from the dogs. The weak state of the invalid, with the renewed feeling that he was in the hands of a savage, induced him to submit to these orders. He says in his notes of the day, " I had great reason at times to shoot the savage down on the spot, and know not how long it may be before I shall have to do so terrible an act to save my own dear life." But he more wisely reserved his punishment until they should reach the ships. narch, tsar. The Nriv Dkappointment ;509 E-mi-mcn and Oot-plh caught the same spirit, so far as to make inexcusable delays ; and these were increased by the usual experi- ences of gales which bound Hall a day or more at a time, and to- ward the last of the journey, by the complete giving-out of the Ao't; sledge, on tlie temperature rising to 16°. All the dogs were then attached to the large sledge in the midst of a furious snow-drift. They were showing their faintness for want of food by their tails standing straight out, instead of curling over their backs. As the result of all these causes of delay, the speed was never more than three miles per hour, and generally less. On the 24th, however, they had struck the land, from which their course was nearly direct to the head of the bay ; on the 31st, they again sighted the ships. This journey for dogs had cost Hall fifty-two more days of pre- cious time, during which his sufferings appear to have been borne with his usual fortitude. He now found that his proposed journey to King William's Land was again utterly arrested. Two months before, when he had his men seemingly secured, the captains' plea had been that they could not spare the dogs. He had now returned from Ig-loo-lik with his own full team; but the whaling season is open, and he is behind time ; they cannot spare a man. Hall could punish Ou-e-Ia, as he now did, by seizing all his dogs and holding them until he had given penitent pledges for future good conduct. But it is not surprising that for a number of days he lay sick and almost hopeless in his iyloo. His feelings, however, and his relations to the masters of the vessels will be best learned from the following letter, addressed to one of them at this time : My Snow House Encampment, Bcjnilw Bay, Ajn-il 12, 1807. My Dear Sib : Your note of this date, solicitingf my company on board your vessel to tea this evening, has been received. I thank you for this kindly 310 HalVs Letter About the Men. [April, 1867. % request, for by it I judge, if iny heart is not amiss, that you did not really intend to wound my feelings, and do nie and the cause I represent the injustice you did on board the Glacier last Friday evening. Allow me to state that I am not aware of ever having entertained for a moment any thought to injure your feel- ings in any way. The very nature of the mission to which I have devoted the last seven years of my life has led me to do all in my power to get to King Will- iam's Land and its neighboring lands as soon as possible, and, therefore, I have never swerved from this priucii)le, which has been to do all in my power to live on good terms with every man, that I might have his co-operation in accomplish- ing the end I have in view, to wit, the rescue of some survivor or survivors of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, whom I have believed might still be living, and that I might recover some of the journals of that expedition, and otherwise gain most important information relating to the fate of all the missing ones. Obstacle after obstacle has been before me, but perseverance has overcome them all except the last. I have done all, as now seemeth to me, that I could do to remove it. How sorrowfully disai)pointed will the noble-hearted Mr. Grinnell be, and the thousands of good hearts of our countrymen, and of other portions of the civilized world, when they find that I have been obliged to turn back just when I should, and might well, push on, and quickly finish up the work before me I Believe me, captain, when I tell you that I feel in my own heart that with the renewal of your warm co-operation at once, or in a very few days, I and the previously-organized sledge party can this spring perform my purposed sledge journey in season to be back here the latter part of June ; and that by your thus doing there will be no occasion for organizing another party of like kind here- after. If you knew how deeply I regret the withdrawal of your helping hand, just at the moment when, as I feel, it is most needed, I am sure you would ex- tend it again without a moment's delay. I pray you consider this whole matter, not as mine alone, but as Mr. Grinnell's, and the thousands who have their eyes upon me, and feel a deei) interest in all that pertains to Sir John Franklin's lost expedition. Excuse me, captain, if I am not there to tea, for really I feel so overwhelmed in grief at my disappointment in not making the sledge journey for which I have so long been preparing, that I am sure I could not contribute one jot to any one's social enjoyment. Most respectfully, C. F. HALL. I s p HAPTER n JOURNEY TO CAPE WEYNTON AND WINTER OF 1868. in: 111 r* ; "•■ I ' w 1 1 CHAPTER XI. AXXIETY FOn THE SAFETY OF THE CACHE MADE IX 18(i0— HaLL's PAUTY SETS OUT TO VISIT IT, May 1— Route by Giuson's Cove, Waluus Island, and Iwiluk to Christie Lake- Sails RAISED ON THE SLED— SnoW-BLINDNESS— MiLES LAKE REACHED— STUANGE InNUITS seen— The Sea of Ak-koo-lee and Toint Hakgrave reached — Expedients to hurry ui' THE DOGS— Cape Weynton reached — The cache changed— Return to Beacon Hill— A week's musk-ox hunt— Survey of Ships Harbor Islands- Na five supeijsti- Tiox— Hall's purchase ok supplies- Capture of a walrus — The hiring of five WHITE MEN— Winter quarters. No new journey now to King William's Land! In addition to this extreme disappointment, there came upon Hall the uncomfortable remembrance of the deposit of provisions made at Cape Weynton, a twelvemonth before, which he had so fondly hoped would serve him on going- out again at this veiy time. The safety of the cache, which had never been a certainty, now became a matter of deep concern from the accounts received from the whalers of the conduct of the Pelly Bay natives, who had been laying their hands on many small articles belonging to the ships, and even on the tents left on shore. There was reason, therefore, to apprehend that on their return home, on which the tribe had now set out, they would destroy this advance deposit, which otherwise would be so much gain whenever Hall could renew his journey. He must go now to the Cape. Expecting to be absent not longer than twelve days, he gained m 314 Sledfic Trip to Cape Wcynton. [Iflart 1807. 1 ( , i 1 J !«■ ^'^.^'SpH tliG consent of the captains to take Frank Leonard and Peter Bayne, of the Ansell Gibbs; and Silas Norton, of the Concordia; and witli these and his own two Eskimos, left Ships Harbor Islands May 1. He had a team of nineteen dogs for a Large sled, the full load on which weighed 1,700 pounds; several Innuit friends assisted in loading up and starting it. Over the smooth sea-ice their first advance averaged two and a half miles per hour. Passing next over two miles of rough ice befoi-e entering Gibson's Cove, at noon they arrived at Walrus Island; at 2 p. m. they were opposite Iwillik; and at 10 p. m. com- pleted their first igloo. The keen appetite of travel was satisfied by a hearty meal of raw deer-meat, coffee, and bread, with rank whale- blubber for butter; and the dogs had a small meal to prevent their running back to the islands. The travel through the early part of the next day was under sail hoisted on the sled to assist the dogs, until the wind died away and the sun came out. The sails were then furled and the sled re-shod. Night found them under a high bluff" hill on the east side of Christie Lake, the choice of which spot was made in the expectation that water could be obtained by removing some of the snow from the huge bank. In this the party were not disappointed. The next day they were housed by a gale from the north-north- west, which had set in on the night previous, accompanied by flying snow so thick that one . "uld not see an arm's length, nor visit the water-supply; on digging through the snow, however, Ebierbing found water within the encampment. All hands then turned out and built a toohsoo (outer igloo) to protect the dogs, and "preserve their fat for working service." When the gale broke, the carcass of an old Polar beai-, which had been brought along for them, was chopped up and Itfar. INd7.1 Skdf/c Trip to Cape Weynton. 315 distributed. In the «venin<^ tlie dome of tlie igloo was built up higher, 08 it was beginning to come down. On the 4tli, Ebierbing and Norton were painfully affected with snow-blindness, and again a strong breeze with flying drift prevailed; but at 1.40 1), m. the extreme end of Christie Lake was reached, and here, at the ** Lower Narrows," a b.'ind of sixteen deer was seen; this excited the dogs to increased speed. At 2.55, the party crossed the very short portage between Dr. Rae's One-mile Lake and his Six-mile Lake, from the northwest end of which last they passed on to a pond, and at the end of the next half hour descended the 100-foot bank spoken of by Rae, and made their third igloo on Miles Lake. On the portage between the lakes, a long line of stones was found, set up on a sharp ridge of rocks, to frighten the deer and force them into a particular route. During the day, Norton, who was leading the party, had sud- denly halted his team on discovering what seemed to him the foot- prints of a man; they were only some of nature's freaks with the snow. The travel had averaged two and a half miles per hour, although the snow was quite deep, and not hardened by the northward or westerly gales. The snow-blindness of Ebierbing and of Frank and Norton increased ; yet the journey was resumed after having made, for use on the return trip, a deposit of one-third of the provis- ions under the snow bed-platform of the hut which they now left. Strange Innuits were here discovered crossing Miles Lake, and coming at first directly toward Hall while loading up his sledge. They proved to be *^ Koong-oii-e-lik^^ ("Mind-your-own-business") and the big son of Too-shoo-art-thar-i-u, who, with three dogs, were drawing a nnisk-ox skin filled with the beef The hours from midnight to '6 a. m. were spent in endeavoring to get again upon the tracks of these natives. Ill)' i ;;i«i Snow-hUnd. irnny, IHHt. J ■ ii ill conHctiuonco of tho Iohh of lour do^s which had HtraytMl off, stututing th(Mr musk-ox meat Much hindered by the thickly-faUinjj snow, Hall and Peter Bayno succeeded in recovering the dogs at the Ujloos wliero tho Polly Hay men were sleeping. No one of these showed his head, hut various stolen articles were observed lying outside of the hut. Half an hour later, an advance was again made toward the sea of Ak-koo-lee on the same route which had been followed in 186G. During the day Frank and Norton, blindfolded, sometimes rode upon tho sledge, at others walked behind, resting upon it; at 6.35 p. m., tho party halted on the bed of a river. Thier next igloo, on the Gth, was made at 10.15 a. m., the travel having been made during the night to prevent snow-blindness. At 10 p. m. of the same day, again starting out, they had the misfortune to run off a steep bank 50 feet high, which threw all into consternation, and nearly broke their necks. The acci- dent, however, delayed them but ten minutes. On the 7th, they arrived on the ice of Ak-koo-lee, and at 4.25 a. m. Point Hargrave was reached. Ascending the heights of this point, Hall endeavored with his telescope to ascertain the possibility of push- ing out from the land, but found the appearance of the ice to be entirely too rough for sledging ; he was restricted to his old route on the ice-foot. The water carried in the fur-covered keg for re-icing the sled-runners failed, and the keg itself was soon afterward unfortu- nately lost from the sled. No one had ridden on the march of this day except the faithful cook, Too-koo-li-too, whose occupation allowed her little sleep at night. At 8.30 a. m., the fifth igloo was made at the west point of Cape Lady Felly. At 4 p. m., May 9, Hall was delighted to see by the aid of his glass, the rock beside which were deposited the greater part of the ffinr. iH«r.i Enticements for llmufnj Dogs. 317 stores placed there in ISfJO. At noon lie had with {^'eat difliculty taken an ** inditlbrent observation" of the snn, vvliich gave for hLs hiti- tude 67° 50' N. ; a gale with snow had prevailed during the preced- ing twenty-four hours. His anxiety to complete this journey and set at rest the question of the safety of the cache will be inferred from such incidents as the following: His "medicine" (trejitmeni ?) for the snow-blind — i. e., tying up their eyes — had proved a charming success. He polished the icing of his sled-runners by rubbing it on with his bare hands, and found that after the first trial he could by himself easily draw Too-koo-li-too, Frank, Silas, and Peter ; all three seated upon a full load. To hurry up the tired and hungry dogs he had adopted several expedients ; among these, sending some of the men ahead, who, with a deer-bone and knife, at one time made strokes as though cutting off meat, and at another cut up small pieces of his Ig-loo-lik sledge and threw them into the air now and then ahead, letting the dogs see that the pieces were kow. This experiment succeeded even in the case of a fagged-out animal in the rear when he was transferred to the front ; the poor creature's efforts to get at the much-desired meat were a great incentive to his followers. These devices were practiced at a time when the weather was very thick. At 11.10 p. m., he found himself by the side of the rock near which, in the previous spring, he had erected a little pile of stones represent- ing Faith, Hope, and Charity, and, to his great satisfaction, on ham- mering loose the stones from his cache, he discovered that all had been unmolested except that a fox had eaten a portion of the ook- gooTc skin which covered the trunk, and that Arctic mice had been busily nibbling at his tent. At midnight, having loaded the sledge with all the stores of the cache, he returned to his igloo, when the 318 The Deposit Changed. [May, 18«7. ml m whole party rested until 5 p. m. of the next day. The icing on the sled-runners had proved so solid on the night previous, as to be unin- jured even when the dogs were flying over the rocks of the Cape — or bluff, as he thinks this point should rather be named, as " it is no cape at all, but simply a little hill rising above the low snow-clad coast." Hall could not forget the necessity of having a cache certainly awaiting him on the first rencAved advance which he could make to- ward King William's Land. It marks an indomitable will and faith in his final success that although disappointed in the three preceding years, he should again deposit at a distance from him, such valuable stores to await the issues of a fourth twelve month. His purpose at this date was to leave the greater part of the stores at the first place on the coast where he could find loose stones to cover them ; he felt satisfied they would be safer at such a plac« than at the Cape, for he had learned that his apprehensions of the Pelly Bay men were well grounded. Happily he found a spot seemingly every way suited for the purpoa>?. His notes, with their usual precision, record this location of the deposit: "Cape Weynton, N. G2^ E. (by compass) : Range of hills in which deposit was made running S. 45° E. and N. 45° W. : Deposit made near the face of hill, thirty-three of my paces from a little pile of stones on top of a rock." The Return Journey occupied, in all, the days from lip. m.. May 10, to 11 p. m., May 17. Hall arrived at Beacon Hill at 6.30 a. m. of the 17th, and at Ships Harbor Islands at the date last named. The notes of this journey, although they record the usual details, present no very special items of interest, except the appearance of a much niar. iMor.i Return to Beacon Hill. 319 swifter and more comfortable advance than on the outward trip. The state of the weather, the condition of the ice, and the lightened sled were all in favor of the return. At the igloo where, on his journey out. Hall had recovered his straying dogs and found the scattered articles and the Pelly Bay men, he had again a sight of these natives, and purchased from them some musk-ox meat. Game had been scarce, and the dogs more than once unusually hungry. The deposit made at their third igloo in going up, they now found ripped up by the wolves, and the musk-ox meat was all gone. At Beacon Hill, Frank, (whom Hall the least excuses as his " lieutenant and the re- sponsible party"), together with Norton and Peter, left him and his two Eskimos to get forward to Ships Harbor Island as best they could. Captains Potter and White, with their usual courtesy, sent out to Beacon Hill an invitation to breakfast with them on board ship, where he found himself again comfortably at home. After a week's rest from this trip, he started off on a musk-ox hunt. His party was made up of Captains Kilmer and Baker, with seven native men and Too-koo-li-too. The hunting-grounds were above Miles Lake ; the outward journey and return made 220 miles of travel. Forty musk-cattle were seen and a large number of deer, as well as of marmots. Twenty-seven musk-oxen, seven deer, and five mamiots were killed, and the party drove home well satisfied with their three fully-laden sledges, drawn by forty dogs. They had been absent from the ships eight days, during part of which Captain Kil mer had been affected with snow-blindness, making his journey by walking at times behind the sledge, and at others, riding on it, bu c still doing good work on the hunt. No notes are to be found of Hall's occupations during the first 320 Fragmentary Notes. [*"»e, iser. nineteen days of June ; and the same remark is, unfortunately, true in reg-ard to a large part of the remainder of the year. The record, therefore, which closes this chapter, being made up in part from frag- mentary memoranda, will necessarily be brief. It has not been found possible to determine whether he intermitted writing his jour- nals, or whether they were written and afterward lost. The precis- ion with which he had up to this time jotted down the minutest details of his work and its surroundings, induces the belief that he must have written out his notes of the occurrences of the long period from June to February of the next year. On the other hand, it were not a forced inference which might be drawn from his fearful disappointments in the preceding spring, that he did not renew the journalizing which had so often heavily tasked his energies and health. But, again, it is to be remarked that thus far the utmost care appears to have been taken by him of every paper and book ; deposits of these being made when moving from place to place, the bearings of which deposits were noted and put into the hands of faithful persons who might find and take to the United States an account of what work he had done, should his own life fail ; and, still further, that, when on a subsequent sledge journey, a few of his notes were scattered by the wind, he carefully recorded the fact. The following are the chief incidents occurring within the summer months, which have been found within the occasional jour- nalizing seemingly practiced. Returning from the musk-ox hunt, he took up his residence on one of the islands near the ships, which were eagerly looking for their release from the ice ; and during the latter part of the month he was again busy in surveying, making observations, and studying his Arctic books. From prominent points he daily took sextant angles, meas- II P' M d V 2 IS I— I o 7^ Jaly, I8«r.] Visits Between Ship and Shore 321 ^|i^ ured his base-lines, again sketched the coast-line, and collected much material for its further delineation. For the benefit of his friends the whalers, he made a special survey of the group known as Ships Harbor Islands, to which reference has been more than once already made. Finding that when his compass was carefully placed in posi- tion and was undisturbed, the needle still shifted in a very short time from four to five degrees, he made for himself a rough instrument, which, he says, answered the purj^ose of a theodolite. The draughts- man who made the accompanying map has found that the observations made by this instrument agree well. His work was uncomfortably interrupted by the frequent occurrence of rain-storms, one of which continued throughout five days. It cleared off the snow from the land and formed pools of water upon the ice of the bay. The natives for the most of the time were scattered : some were at Oo-gla-ri-your Island hunting deer; others on the land iishing for salmon. Mam-.narJc, who had often made one of his party, died be- fore the month closed, among her friends who were sealing on the ice. Hall's cordial intercourse with the whalers had been promptly renewed, frequent visits being exchanged between ship and shore. Several of their boats' crews had been encamped on Beach Point for some weeks, having been prevented by the ice from getting down the Welcome to Whale Point. When some of these crews had come up to their ships for supplies, and found, after a weary tramp over the ice, that their captains and nearly all the natives were absent seaHng, Hall cheerfully assisted them by loaning his own sledge and dogs to take back provisions to the needy. On the i3d of Jvily, a party of Ig-loo-lik natives, numbering ten men, twelve women, and twenty-seven children, came down to S. Ex. 27 21 ■3 wT o (/I Q 5 >< > ^ = w C/] p: "J < J x << 72 P- 1—1 K 75 V 2 a jHir. iN«r. Visits Between Ship and Shore 321 ured his base-lines, again sketched the coast-line, and collected much material for its further delineation. For the benefit of his friends the whalers, he made a special survey of the group known as Ships Harbor Islands, to which reference has been more than once already made. Finding that when his compass was carefully placed in posi- tion and was undisturbed, the needle still shifted in a very short time from four to five degrees, he made for himself a rough instrument, which, he says, answered the purjjose of a theodolite. The draughts- man who made the accompanying map has found that the observations made by this instrument agree well. His work was uncomfortably interrupted by the frequent occurrence of rain-storms, one of which continued throughout five days. It cleared off the snow from the land and formed pools of water upon the ice of the bay. The natives for the most of the time were scattered : some were at Oo-gla-ri-your Island hunting deer; others on the land fishing for salmon. Mani-marJc, who had often made one of his party, died be- fore the month closed, among her friends who were sealing on the ice. Hall's cordial intercourse with the whalers had been promptly renewed, frequent visits being exchanged between ship and shore. Several of their boats' crews had been encamped on Beach Point for some weeks, having been prevented by the ice from getting down the Welcome to Whale Point. When some of these crews had come up to their ships for supplies, and found, after a weary tramp over the ice, that their captains and nearly all the natives were absent sealing. Hall cheerfully assisted them by loaning his own sledge and dogs to take back provisions to the needy. On the 3d of July, a party of Ig-loo-lik natives, numbering ten men, twelve women, and twenty-seven children, came down to S. Ex. 27 21 m 322 Jult/ the Fourth. [jiair. iser. visit the ships ; among them Hall recognized many of the friends made on his visit in the spring. His foraier impressions of the dangers through which he was passing from the superstitions of the Iwillik natives was strengthened now again by Too-koo-li-too, who said that the wife of Oof-pik attributed the death of Queen Emma to the fact that his own Eskimo, Ebierbing, hkd caught a certain kind of seal. Ou-e-Ja himself had said the same thing. Hall writes of this: "No won- der our lives have been in danger much of the time while living with these Iwillik people. I knew long ago that they thought me the cause of the death of Shoo-she-ark-nook and Ar-too-a, but not until now did I know that the death of one of Ou-e-lcCs wives was thought by them to be caused by Ebierbing. It seems that the wife cleaned the skin of Ebierbing's seal of its hair and blubber. Oot-pik^s wife de- clines to eat any of our seal-meat, abundance of which we have in our tent, because he was the one who killed the seals. She had been told by the Iwillik Innuits not to eat any of any seal of Ebierbing's killing, for if she did she would die." On the 4th, Hall dined on the Black Eagle with the masters of the ships in the harbor, and the national flag was displayed from the mast-head of each vessel and from his own tupik By the 7th of the month open water could be seen to the southward ; it extended itself by the 9th above Oo-gla-ri-your Island, now named by the whale- men. Hall Island. On the night of the 10th, ice of the thickness of common window-glass formed on the pools of water of the open spaces amid the sea-ice near the shore, although Hall's thermom- eter stood at 40°. Mosquitoes had made their appearance as early as the 4th. On the 24th, the steamer Nimrod, from St. John's (Capt. E. Chapel), AugHBt, iser.i Purchases Made from the Ships. 323 came into the harbor, having on board his brother, Capt. Christopher Chapel, and thirty others, who had been picked up on the ice of Hud- son's Strait, near North Bluflf, where their sln"p, the Pioneer, was crushed. From the Nimrod, Hall obtained a heavy cotton sail and 500 pounds of sea-bread, in payment for which he gave an order on his steadfast friend in New York, Mr. Grinnell ; for a number of use- ful small articles he gave in return deer skins and meat. From an English vessel, which came in, August 2, he procured a number of hatchets, knives, saws, powder-horns, daggers, and smaller articles, for his future trading, paying for these with 248 pounds of his bone, valued at $1 per pound. He received a present of a Nautical Almanac for the year 1868. From the whalers already named and from others coming in, he completed his purchases of provisions and stores for the coming year and for a new joui'ney ; among his latest supplies were those from the schooner Era, commanded by Capt. G. E. Tyson, afterward one of the officers of the United States steamer Polaris. His indebtedness on these last accounts amounted to $455.06, the value, as he estimated it, of the remainder of his whalebone on the Ansell Gibbs. It must be said in justice to him that his purchases and his orders for payment were made in good faith, proof of which is found in a letter from Mr. Grinnell, dating after the return of the whaler, which letter acknowl- edges the receipt of monies on Hall's account from Captain Kilmer, of this ship. Each of the captains, while they remained in Repulse Bay, made him valuable presents, including some useful books. On the 1 3th of August, he went over to Pi-tik-tou-yer, to remain there for the purpose of catching whales. He found the natives living in some twenty tupiks; but a few days after, most of the men moved 324 The Starviny Natives Assisted. [Nrplembor, 1867. r":i. i off to Lyon's Inlet to hunt for deer, some going* by land from the head of Haviland Bay and others by boats through Hurd's Channel. Hall sent one crew in the Sylvia and another in the Lady Franklin to the east side of the bay to hunt deer, but they soon returned completely drenched with the rains. A second crew sent out for a whale were equally unsuccessful, and the women and childi'en on shore, number- ing twenty-eight, who had been de- pending on him for food, could receive nothing except some bread and the walrus-hide given him by Captain Tyson for dog-food. He then sent some of the w^'te men who were with him on another deer-hunt, and, while waiting their return, distributed to the hungry people all the provis- ions he had, and then returned to his old place on the island, taking with him Ar-mou and his family, one of whom was sick. Two days afterward, his party returned with two deer, and one of the Whalers having caught a whale, the necessities of the Innuits were relieved. Two of their well-filled boats had sighted the capture from the head of the bay, and hastened down to feed on the skin. Hall towed the carcass on shore for dog-food. He found that the dogs had been eating the bodies of some of the Innuits, who had been insecui'ely buried. On the 1st of September he again took up his residence at Iwillik, from which place he made vigorous efforts to secure whales or walrus, but the stormy weather forbade success ; the southeast wind at times driving the ice in upon the shore, and a northeaster at other times HALL'S BOAT-LOO. Nrpirmbrr, is«y.i A Wnlfus SrcuYcd. 325 clearing out the harbor. The snow was bej^inninj^ to fall and the ice rapidly formed to the thickness of half an inch. On the first favorable day for walrusing, he went out with some of his men, and after a long fight secured one walrus. Four had been sighted lying asleep on the ice; but at the first attack the iron thrown by Ar-mou struck only the folds of the hide of one animal and gave the alarm b}*^ which all escaped. Later in the day, Antoine, a Portu guese man of Hall's party, threw an iron into another walrus ; but his line fouling, he was compelled to cut it, and on Ebierbing's getting into the bow to throw another weapon, he was caught by the line and knocked overboard, escaping by a long jump to the ice. Coming up to two other walruses, the crew fastened the harpoon in one which turned fiercely to attack the boat with his tusks, when a well-directed i-ifle-shot put an end to the fight. The carcass was towed to the head of Gibson's Cove, and there cut up and cached. On the 17th, he went into winter quarters two miles east of Beacon Hill. It seems certain that he had at this time with him five men, whom he had hired from the ships, whose names, so far as can be learned, were: Frank Lailor, of the Glacier; Peter Bayne, of the Ansell Gibbs; and Pat Coleman, Antoine , and John S. Spear- min, from some of the other vessels the names of which are not given. These men had been already in his service during the month previous, as will be inferred from their having taken part in the deer, walrus, and whale-hunts. No executed contract has been found, but from a blank rough draft appearing to have been drawn up in August, the following terms of service and compensation are gathered : The men were to be hired for one year, or for a longer period if no oppor- tunity should offer within the year for their return to the United w 4 32U The Contract with Five White Men. [Uclober, IMMT. m- I States. Their services were to be of any kind that Hall might require and deem niorft essential, and they were well informed that their labors would not be light or their dangers small, and that the preservation of their lives would oftentimes depend upon their own exertions, as their food and clothing must be acquired from the icy seas and the wild hunting-grounds of the north. The party of the second part (for the contract was evidently with each man under the approval of the captain of his ship) agreed that in consideration of $500 per year, he would render the services required of him with strict obedience to each and every order of his commander, and would receive such a recompense as he would fairly deserve for faith- fulness, energ}', and honest devotion to his work. But neither service nor pay were to be continued longer at the furthest than to the date from which a passage could be taken on a good ship from Repulse Bay in the Fall of 1868. From the time of his going into winter quarters, and throughout the following months of October, November, and December, and the first month of the year 1868, Hall seems to have kept no continuous journal His provision-lists during these months are made out for eight persons at the encampment, showing that the five white men and Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, with himself, made up the party. The lists contain in detail the items of Arctic sustenance — of deer necks, heads, ribs, and belly meat, backbone and legs, with tood-noo, walrus- meat and blubber muk-tuk, and a small quantity of salmon. This provision, in addition to what he drew from the stores received from the whalers (which included a few cans of preserved meat, beef and mutton, with a little dried fruit), would seem to have been ample for the necessities of life ; the footing up of his lists for seventy -three days '.Jkiiti: November, i««T.) Winter Quarttrs for a Third Year. 327 being 1,637 pounds, or an avernfre per day of about 22 pounds for the party. Up to the first week in November, his frugmentary notes show that fifty-one deer had been killed. He trained his men to hard- ships and busied himself with new plans. He had with him packages of the New York papers, and particularly the Journal of Commerce, in which his own letters to the United States had been more than once published. His friend Mr. Grinnell, who had sent out these with his renewed supplies, had expected him home in September. The letters of friendship from Mr Grinnell and from his daughter Sylvia had informed him that a special ship would have been sent for him, had it not been known that at least two whalers were near him in the bay. But these letters also advised him that, from what he had already written home, much anxiety was felt among his friends not only in the United States but in England to hear more of Franklin's men. Hall determined to endure another Arctic winter, and then, if possi- ble, strike once more for King William's Land. !i n In p HAPTER m JOURNEYS TO THE STRAIT OF FURY AND HECLA AND TO LYON'S INLET, AND FOURTH WINTER. FEBRUARY, llt6», TO MARCH, 1869. 'if ,)'i " .1 h CHAPTER XII. HaIJ, PUUP08E8 TO VISIT THE NOUTHEHN PART OF MELVILLE PeNINSULA-ReaSONS FOH THIS JOUKNEY IN PLACE OF ONE TO KiNO WiLLIAM'S LaND-ThE INFORMATION FROM THE NA- TIVES OF A MONUMENT AND TRACES OF WHITE MEN SEEN THERE SINCE 1803— PURCHASES THE FEW DOGS STILL ALIVE AMONG THE NATIVES— HiS PROVISION-LIST FOR THE JOUPJJEY AND ARTICLES OF BARTER— LoSES SOME OF HIS NOTES BY THE OALE-EnCAMPS O.N THE ICE NEAR THE OOGLIT ISLANDS- CONVERSES WITH THE NATIVES— VISITS PaRRY BaY WITH Koo-Loo-A— Finds a monument— Digs in vain for the cache— Finds the remains of A TENTING-PLACE ONCE OCCUPIED BY WHITE MEN-DlSCOVERS GrINNELL LaKE AND BrE- voort Kiver- Visits Amherst Island— Returns to Tern Island-Holds further CONVEraATIONS WITH THE NATIVES— RECEIVES SEVERAL MAPS DRAWN BY THE ESKIMOS— Visits Gifford River to find another tenting-place— Returns to Repulse Bay— Salmon-fishing and deer-hunts— Mutiny of one of the five white men— Loss of LIFE- Capture of a second whale— Journey to Lyon's Inlet— Survey— Discharge of the four white men— Hall dries venison and prepares pemmican in his own igloo— Plans for a new sledge journey to King William's Land. Before the winter of 1867-'68 closed, every preparation had been made for renewing- the advance of the preceding year. But Hall now felt himself suddenly and unexpectedly called to that part of Melville Peninsula which borders on Fury and Hecla Strait. His reasons for making- this journey in place of going to King William's Land, were in his own mind sufficient to induce the change ; they are here given in nearly the language of his own notes, unimportant details only being omitted. In the latter part of October, 1867, Papa-te-wa, a brother of ^r- mou, had told him that a few years before, an Innuit had seen, some- I pill I :U 332 The Monument on Melville Peninsula. [iaauarrt 1S08. 4 ll< where in the neighborhood of Ig-loo-Uk, two stone buildings, "not such as Innuits ever made, but quite large, long, wide, and high." To this story, which appeared quite improbable, Hall at first paid but lit- tle attention ; but a few days after this, Ebierbing showed Papa, on Parry's chart, the country around Tg-loo-lik ; and as soon as the na- tive understood the chart, he pointed out the place where these build- ings had been found, and gave the name of the Innuit who had seen them when on his deer-hunt. It was on the south side of the strait, about half way between Cape Englefield and Amherst Island, and the buildings, he said, were on a low shelving shore near some bold high- land. Papa said of the Innuit, Kia, who had seen them, that he was a man who would never lie. He gave as a reason for Kia\'i close observation of every object in that country, his consciousness that his own life had long been in perpetual danger from the relatives of one who had been slain by one of his kinsmen ; for, according to Innuit belief, the soul of the slain can never rest until some near relative of the slayer shall pay the debt with his blood. Of Pajja himself. Hall says that he was a good-natured, intelligent, and truthful native, who had lived five years near Ponds Bay and many more at Ig-loo-lik. Frequent conversations were, therefore, held with Papa, and with his friend Ik-ku-mer, to learn everything on this new and interesting subject ; and in the early part of February following, Hall sent Ebier- bing and Frank Lailor to a native village, twenty miles distnit on the ice, to ask that some of the natives of Ig-loo-lik who were there would visit him. They returned with Quasha, his wife, and Eek-choo-ar-clioo, whom Hall notes also as "Jerry" — a name probably received from the whalemen. From these natives he learned with further interest that within the past three years they had seen near Ig-loo-lik two \k January, IS6H.] Thc Wliitc McH SccH SIhcc line's VisU. 333 wJiite men, "one a tall man, the other considerably shorter." On fur- ther close questioning them, his belief in their story was confirmed by the seeming consistency of their statements. They had seen Dr. Rae at Pelly Bay seven years after his first visit to their country, and had remained near Ivvillik seven winters and a half, after Rae went home from his second visit ; after which they went to Ig-loo-lik, and two years hter, saw the koh-lu-nas. Some additional particulars which they || gave strengthened their story ; among these was an account of a time If of suffering by starvation which they had experienced. Hall says that their statements, with other news gained from the Innuits, gave him inexpressible joy, " for it brought the story down as late as 1864, at which time some of Franklin's companions were alive near 1^'ury and Hecla Strait." This was his strong hope. A short time afterward, he sent a large load of walrus-meat to relieve the suffering people of this village, numbering fifty-five per- sons, and heard further from them that four years after liae's last visit a ship's beam, painted black on one side, and a long and large mast, had been seen on the east shore near the southei'n terminus of Committee Bay. The Pelly Bay men also were reported as having seen since Dr. Ilae's departure, on the shores of Simpson's Peninsula, a stone monument having on its top a thin stone pointing toward Ig-loo-lik. Not satisfied ^ . without making every eftbrt to learn the reputation in which Quaslm and his wife were held for truthfulness. Hall now made close inquiries for this of Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk whom he had long trusted, and sent to the village to question the natives on the same point. The replies were every way satisfactory, except that Quasha, in his younger days, had been known as fond of telling yarns ; his wife was considered entirely truthful. Still later in the month, Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too visited 334 Did all of Fravkliri's Party go to Back's Biver? [Janunry, ises. Quasha's wife to obtain further news and the minute particuhvrs of the accounts ah-eady received. On their return Hall wrote : " The news relative to there having been seen white men near Ig-loo-lik between 1849 and 1865, proves to be true beyond all question in my mind Certainly I am bound at once for Ig-loo-lik and Fury and Hecla Strait. There is not a shadow of doubt about my duty, which is to fly to the rescue of the probable survivors of Franklin's Expedition." It will not be forgotten that this rescue was the chief one of the two objects named in all his appeals and lectures from the date of 1860, when he had begun his training for these expeditions by tenting out on the hills of Cincinnati. He now yearned to be off to the strait, which he calls " a hallowed spot." Papa told him that he and all the Ig-loo-lik natives believed the accounts which have been now given, and that some of the survivors might be still found alive; he was will- ing to assist in the search. Hall appears to have been impressed with the great probability that all of Franklin's party had not continued on the hopeless route to Back's River. His hopes of this resulted from reflections like those lately expressed by Dr. Rae, as found in "Smith's Arctic Expeditions, 1878." Rae says: What struck me at the time, as it does still, was the great mistake made by Franklin's party in attempting to save themselves by retreating to the Hudson's Bay territories. We should have thought that the fearful sufferings undergone by Franklin and his companions, Richardson and Back, on a former short jour- ney through these barren grounds, would have deterred inexperienced men from attempting such a thing, when the well-known route to Fury Beach — certainly ranch more accessible than any of the Hudson's Bay Company's settlements, and by which the Rosses escaped in 1832-'33 — was open to them. The distance from their ships to Fury Beach was very little greater than that from where Ross's vessel was abandoned to the same place, and Franklin and his officers must have known that an immense stock of provisions still remained at the jjlace where the Fury was wrecked, and where, even so late as 1869, an immense stock of pre- iii! .1 march, 1868.1 Preparations for Visiting the Strait 335 served vegetables, soups, tobacco, sugar, flour, &c., still remained (a much larger supply than could be found at many of the Hudson's Bay trading-posta) ; besides, the people would have been in the direct road of searchiiife parties or whalers. The distance to Fury Beach from where the ships were abandoned, roughly measured, is, as nearly as possible, the same as that between the ships and the true mouth of the Great Fish River, or about two hundred and ten geographical miles in a straight line. Had the retreat upon Fury Beach been resolved upon, the necessity for hauling heavy boats would have been avoided, for during the previous season (that of 1847) a small sledge party might have been dispatched thither to ascertain whether the provisions and boats at the depot were safe and available. The successful i)ei'formance of such a journey should not have been difficult for an expedition consisting of 130 men, who, in the record found in 1859 by McClintock, were reported all well in the spring of 1847. [In connection with these views of Rae, and in recording Hall's enthusiastic expectations, with the repeated and uniform accounts given to him of some v^ ite men having been seen on the peninsula later than 1854 (together with their monument and tenting-place, which he did discover), the questions at this point of the Narra- tive seem irrepressible ; — " Is it possible that some of Franklin's men did make their way eastward to Melville Peninsula?" Will the expedition of 1878 from New York, under Schwatka, or some future explorer lighting on a cairn, ever give the world some answer to this inquiry? for it seems by no means certain that all of the 105 remained under Crozier's leadership toward Back's River. Will the Franklin Records ever be recovered for P^ngland and for the world ?] During the first three weeks of March, Hall busied himself in making his preparations. After providing for the four white men whom he would leave at the encampment at Talloon, he made his usual deposit of records and stores. An epidemic had again visited the dogs, and his own team had been reduced from twenty-three to eight. Some having died from the disease, he had killed others to I ui ^$ U ']. 1 'I '!|ji' 336 The Dog Disease. [Rlarcii, ISttH. prevent its spread. He succeeded, however, in securing five from the Innuits, the only dogs except two or three that remained alive about the hay* In return for the information he had just received and for other past services, he added useful articles to the compensation which he gave for these dogs. On the 23d, he left his encampment, having for his companions Frank Lailor, Papa and his wife and little child, Ebierbing, and Too- koo-li-too. His provision-list was made up of — bread, 308 pounds ; pemmican, 252 pounds; raw venison, 100 pounds; pork, 17 pounds; sugar, 25 pounds ; coffee and tea, 10 pounds; molasses, 39 pounds; tobacco, 13^ pounds; seal-blubber, 40 pounds, Ook-gook oil, 50 pounds, partly for fuel ; — walrus-hide, 463 pounds, and whale-tongue, 266 pounds, for dog-food. Expecting to meet his old friends at Ig- loo-lik he counted on renewing his supplies at that place. His list of articles for barter and for presents included 50 knives; * The peculiar nature of the Eskimo dog disease was closely uoted in the experience of the English Expedition of 1875. The following is taken from the report of Fleet-Surgeon B. Ninnis. (Parliamentary Paper, C. 2176, 1878) : " Twenty-live apparently healthy dogs were embarked on board ship in the middle of July, 1875. The number subsequently increased to twenty-seven by the addition of two young ones. We were given to understand that feeding twice a week was amply sufficient ; that the worst possible personal treatment was too good for tlicm, and meat in any stage of decomposition a perfect luxury to their fastidious palates. " Seven and twenty animals, confined to a space which the utmost attention was scarcely sufficient to keep habitable, constantly quarreling and fighting for dear life, exposed to sun, dew, snow, and wet generally, and without a chance of a run ashore — it was not to bo won- dered at that they began to show signs of disease. The first attacked was a young female twenty-flvo days on board, and she had a fit and died iu thirteen days. Others became attacked. One Avas summarily shot ; one ran away, and Was seen no more ; two were accidentally drowned ; seven died from the disease ; six recovered; one died mad. "Of the whole number, twelve only were under medical treatment; one bad rabies and died ; one so far recovered as to have two litters of pups, and then died ten months after her first fit and two or three days after her last litter ; two fell into the water when in fits and were drowned ; two died notwithstanding everything that was done to cure them, and six recovered and were landed at Disco. # # » xhe treatment found most beneficial was calomel, fol- lowed in some cases by croton-oil and solution of morphia, the best of water, and good food. They were not kicked or cuffed, and they behaved as sociably and decorously as if brought up in a cottage." April. iN«N.i Papa looses Hairs Notes. .^37 500 perciussion-caps; a liberal sui)i)ly of ball, powder, and .shot; 1,500 needles, and 80 thimbles, besides combs, looking--^lasses, buttons, beads, brass rings, fish-hooks, and files, &e. The experience of his visit of the previous year to Ig-loo-lik had taught him something- of the \alue set upon the smallest of these articles, even upon scraps of iron and wood. On arriving at the head of Plaviland Bay, he crossed the land, taking- nearly the same route with that followed the year before, and on the 30tli made his seventh iffloo of the journey on a lakelet just above Lyon's Inlet. While here engaged chiseling a hole through the ice, he had the lamentable misfortune to see Papa flying in full chase after some of his freshly-written notes, which, on unloading the sledge, had been suddenly swept out of their fur-cover l)y a furious blast of tlie gale. Papa returned in three-quarters of an hour ; but, after chasing the books over the lake and beyond the rising ground, he had lost sight of the jottings made since leaving Talloon. The flying drift buried them forever. When starting on the second day following, bridle-drags were !|< prepared for the sledges, as they had now to descend a steej) hill into a river-bed; a moment after, Pa/;a ran the sled Erebus i:pon the point of a sharp rock which knocked off some of the mossing, whereupon he angrily got a large stone and pounded the point to powder. There was, however, a delay of but five miimtes. On the 2d, they reached Fox Channel, and made their tenth igloo at Oo-soo-ark-u; and here Hall remained one day to please his companions. He took observations for position, and left a de])osit of 103 pounds of bread and fi4 pounds of pemmican for his return journciy. In consequence of heavy and rough ice met with on the 4th they struck offshore, and, S. Hx. .{7- ' : : I , J: m iiill: m m. 338 Reception at the Oo-f/lit Tshtmh. I April, I NAM. whoii reacliinj^ the latitudo of the north end of Ain-i-toke, tununl to the weHtward and encamped near it. They met fresh foot-prints seem- ingly of two men and a dog^, and supposed that the men had been wal- rusinjT at the north on the drift-ice, which, being carried away liad brought them to this j)oint before they had a chance of gaining the firm ice. On the 6th of April, the thirteenth iffloo was built at a point called by the Innuits King-me-toke-big, not far from the Oo-glit Islands, and the day following, when within a short drive from these islands, an Innuit who had been out all night on his watch, came up to them with his full sealing-gear. lie proved to be an old man whom Hall had never before seen, but he gave some information as to the number of natives on the islands, and at Ping-it-ka-lik and Ig-loo-lik. Coming to the islands. Hall's party saw standing on the hill-top a row of Innuits watching them; Papa fired off his gun, and the old man, Too-Ioo-arch-oo, cried out to them at the top of his voice, " Mitter Hall, Mitter Hall !" '^I'he natives of the village, when they caught the words, answered with loud cries, set to dancing, and offered as warm a recep- tion as on the previous year. When they crowded into the quickly- built igloo, they were at once met with inquiries as to the accounts of the white men said to have been seen on the Strait. Hall remained at these islands from the 7th to the 16th of the month, partly to obtain supplies of walrus-nioat for the continuance of his journey, but chiefly to get from the natives all further information he possibly could, for or against the statements he had received. On the journey he had sprained his left leg while climbing over the rough ice, and this confined him to his bed for several days. While P^bier- bing went to Ig-loo-lik for dog-food, the natives employed Hall's dogs in their own service, their stock having nearly all been swept away by April, INU»H. Con mr nations about the White Men. 3a9 (lisoasc A largo number of visitors camo around liini, tlio villaj^o sinco liis arrival having svvellod its population to the number of one hundred. After questioning many of the people, at first separately and then at a time when (piito a party were gathered in his igloo^ ho was further strengthened in his belief of what ho had heard about the white men seen on tho southern shores of the Strait. Ho seems to have really expected that he would soon find sonio of Franklin's men still alive. The details of his conversations were written out with great care in a full journal, which was irrecoverably lost in some unaccountable way just before his setting out on tho Polaris Expedition of 1871. From a partial copy of this journal, made at his request by his friend Mr. J. J. Copp, of Groton, Conn., the notes have been taken which are to be found in Paper "B" of Appendix IV. This copy, made by Mr. Copp in books "A" and " B" especially for the use of Lady Franklin, was sent over to that estimable lady just before Hall left the United States on his last ill-fated voyage. Indorsed by him "to be retained by her in trust for a time," it has been courteously returned by her niece, Miss Sophia Cracroft, for use in the preparation of this Narrative. Some of the striking points in these conversations, which increased Hall's enthusiasm, and in his judgment justified him in prosecuting this journey, will be found in Appendix named The story may be summed up in brief as follows: Although he could not meet with Kia, for he had been killed by a walrus, he learned from Koo-looa, a native whom he found to be trustworthy, that when he had been hunt- ing all around tho country between Garry Bay and the northwest ca})e of Molvillo Peninsula, he had seen an In-nooJc-bhoo (a monument) li : U1 f ip' ' ' if .1 JO' ■ r. ■■ii; 340 'f/ic ('luthhig and Walk of the Men Seen, lAprJi, tsus. on tlie Houtli sido of a river empty lii<^ into u buy iioiir the Cape I'^Ulce of Dr. Kae, and a little west of this a cache of stones, which had been opened and its stones thrown aside. It showed freshness, and was without a si<^n of meat havinj^ been deposited there. Koo-ho-a did not think an Innuit had built it, or that any native before his visit had ever gone up so far from Garry Bay. He had been with Kia when the latter saw the stranjre man. The man had a cap on his head, separate from his overcoat, which had a hood. Kia had kept the stranger in sight for some time, often hiding himself behind the rocks; he had also then heard the discharge of a gun. From the time that Kia first gave this account to Koo-loo-a, it had been believed by all the Innuits in the region of the ()o-glit Islands, .and they all now expressed to Hall their confidence in it. Besides such reports, others also of as strange a character Avero offered — of strangers having been seen in places nearer to Ig-loo-lik, and of sounds having been repeatedly heard like those from the dis- charge of a gun, and at places too far from the ice to have been the result of the ice cracking. The strangers had at first been taken for Kt-Jcer-lin (Indians), the apprehension alwa}s entertained by Innuits in regard to whom had, at the times when the white men were seen, so frightened them, that, at every appearance, their families had been removed immediately from the place. This was the invariable testi- mony, as was also the description of the clothing worn and of the foot- prints examined after the strangers passed by. They were long and very narrow in the middle, with deep places at the heel. The tread of the footsteps was outward. Hall could not help connecting in mind the story of the ship's mast and beam on the shores of Pelly Bay, the monument spoken of 1 , ■ ; H ii= , '.■■; ' ( y< i !!!■ i :^ ■ 4 Ii hv,. i .' t April, isflH.) From the Oo-glit Islamls to Crosier Biver. 841 by S('r-]ntnff-rr, hikI tho one now HceniinfT to exist on the north Hhores of the Strait, us links in connection with the strun^e }i])|)eiiriinceH of the men, tlielr dress, and footsteps. Some of Franklin's men ninst, he thonght, have crossed over eastward to Parry's old region in the for- lorn hope of reacliing, perhaps, Cumberland Inlet and being rescued by some vessel from Oid England ; and they might be still alive, for the last date of thesf> stones was 1H()4. Leaving tho islands early on the 1 6th, with Koo-loo-a as a trust- i worthy guide, he passed by Ping-it-ka-lik, crossed from that place, over land so level and smooth, that it was difficult to tell it was not a lake, and made his first new igloo on Hooper Inlet, about half a mile from shore. The day following, making a fair progress across tho inlet, he came to an old deserted iyloo, in which a dead fox was found. Koo-loo-a built up a pillar of snow, on the top of which he left tlie 'm||. animal erect, its tail standing straight out and two of its legs in the })Osition for walking, in which they had been found. Tracks of the wolf, the deer, the fox, and of partridges were seen. Near the islands, at the head of the inlet, tidal action was seen to have made the ice very rough. Their next igloo was built on Quilliam Creek, at the early hour , i of 2 a. m. of the 17th. From the head of this creek, they en- ' deavored to shorten their route to the west branch of Crozier River, but the roughness of the land, compelling them to make zigzag courses, prevented any gain of time. Koo-loo-a pointed out on tho southern side of the river a place where e-ker-lu (salmon) abound, and ; said that Parry had caught many there at his tenfing-place. Upon Crozier River they passed through a magnificent gorge from 50 to 'iS feet in width, to avoid some impassable snow-drifts in ?.5| f R!|i' I 342 Grinnell Lake and Brevoort River. [April, 1808. i m. whicli they put on their rue-raddies, (harness), helping the dogs np a very steep hill, and then descending swiftly into the river-bed ; and after fur- ther delays among the rough rocks which pushed up through the ice, at 6.30 p. m. they built an igloo on the river. Hall immediately climbed a high peak in the range of mountains before him, from which he had a fine view of the surrounding country. On the east was an extensive plain ; on the north, the high land about Hooper Inlet ; and soiithward and westward, mountains after mountains rose in confused masses : a pass seemed to open itself about ten miles to the south. On the 19th, the travel np the river was continued as far as the lake from which it flows, after riding on the smooth surface of which more than five hours they built their fourth iffho Hall named the lakelet Grinnell Lake ; during the night the cracking of the ice on it sounded like continuous artillery. Not a sign of life had been seen since leaving Quilliam Creek ; and Koo-loo-a told Hall that no other Innuit knew this route, which he had discovered when hunting. At noon of the next day, on the western end of Grirmell Lake, they found a large open pool with no anchor-ice on its bottom rock. Salmon were swimming in it. To the little stream which ran from this lake Hall gave the na' ">e of Brevoort River. A lakelet into which it expanded being foui. i to be covered with water with nuich thin ice over it, a passage was made over the land until the river was again entered, when the traveling became very fatiguing through the soft snow, which was melting under the southerly winds. Hall's limb was now so painful as to compel him to ride nearly all the time, and he could make but few observations; but his next igloo yv^s made near the spot where Koo-loo-n ''saw the tracks of white men and heard the report of a gun more than thirteen years before." The day follow- April, 1868.] Discovery of ^^ New IslcmdP 343 ing- they came to a frozen cascad . feet In lieig-lit, wliere the river seemed to have cut its way through solid granite 60 feet wide and 25 feet high, and a few hours afterward they passed out upon the bay, and built their sixth igloo on the ice of the sea of Ak-koo-lee, lat. 69° 47'.5. The next day was one of rest for the Innuits, who were suffering from snow-blindness. Hall made for them a wash of sugar of lead and 'l| laudanum. From a piece of driftwood -BToo- loo-a made eye-shades. In company with Frank Lailor, Hall looked carefully from the top of Cape Englefield for any signs of white men, but could see none ; he made his own monument on the Cape — a pile of three large snow-goggles. stones, the lowest resting on his clay pipe. A hawk was seen, and tracks of deer, of bears, and ermine were numerous ; on the ice were many regular paths worn in the snow by the bears, but no animal showed himself to the travelers The jumps of the little ermine in the snow showed that they had been full six feet each. Early on the 23d, most of the stores were deposited ift an igloo, over which "a flag was left swinging in the wind to keep off the bears," when the whole company started down the coast to visit the monu- ment described by Koo-loo-a; but, on his being taken sick, the visit was arrested for that day. Out on the sea was a long line of fog, showing itself to the nth as far as the eye could follow it Koo-loo-a said there was opeii water there all winter, and that many walrus were caught there. Land now discovered by Hall west-northwest from Cape Englefield proved to be a long low island. Koo-loo-a said that bears were often killed on it while wintering under the snow. Of this discovery his little note-book of the evening says: *'0n BIB' IH: "'P " '" i 344 The Monument Found. [April, 1868. getting to-day to the heights of land overlooking New Bay, Parry Bay, Cape Crozier, and Fury and Hecla Straits, the sight of a New Long Island to the westward, so carried me away that I was sweeping to the right and left with my glass before I again had a thought of moimments or other traces of the lost ones." On the 24th, the search was made for the monument and cache. The monument was found and the place of the cache pointed out, but the latter ivas covered hy a huge hanli of snow. Hall thus describes the location of the monument: "On either side of the plain on which it stands is a river, and hills of delta are northeast of it. It is 100 feet above the sea, and near a hill upon the south side of the plain. The hill looks not unlike an inverted whale-boat when seen at a little dis- tance from the northwest." While he made a sketch of the monument, Frank Lailor, with an iron snow-knife, tried to cut down through the bank to the cache, but found the snow as hard as ice. To leave nothing undone to find the buried cache-stones, Hall now moved down and built his igloo near it, and on the 25th renewed with Frank Lailor, with some assistance from Ebierbing w)io was suffering with rheumatism, the severe work of cutting down into the snow-bank. They all labored hard for many hours, cutting down to the depth of \h feet with their iron snow-knives, luitil, as Ebierbing has lately said, " they sweated in the cold from head to foot." 13nt it was impossible to find the cache. MOM-MKNT FOUND HY HAM.. ill; ■■ ' !if';v April, 1808.] A Tent'mff-Place of White Men. 345 Too-koo-li-too and Ebierl)ing, about the same time, found two tentin'^ ' li Ji 'Hi ■' ii ... . -^ ■■ ' ) ,fli< h :l''l Ir lIlM IS,;.; if; lii] ij l^ r -I lliilH. * r\ h April, I808.J Bough Notes of the 2Ath-2ijth. 347 8 a. m. — Passing aloiifjf Irein seventh encampment toward Cape Crozier, the monument is distinctly A'isible witli the glass. I and Frank commenced at once ji with onr snow-shovels to cat out snow-blocks from the heavy bank just west of ' the monument in sear(;h t)f the cache-stones. Koo-looa, trom his remend)rance of the situation of the monument and cache-stones, has shown us where to dig. 10.5 a. m. — Hannah has found the tenting-i)lace of white men — an oblong tent and four fresh upturned stones, one at each corner, to mak(i fast the lines of the tent ; the stones show an age since turned up out of their bed the same as monument stones. 10.30.— Joe, in searching around, has found another tenting-place. Frank j. and myself were busy raising l)lo(!ks when Joe called, and then we all ran where he was, and have just made our investigations. These stones are in a circular form, and evidently the tenting-place of Innuits within ten to fifteen years. Hannah said if a tire-jdace could be found within the tent-circle then they were Innuit tenting i)laces, and at last a tire-place was found wilhin one of the circles — black on the back of the fire-place; a stone that had formed one side was loos- i| ened and turned up by Hannah and found black with smoke. Koo-looa Ibund a large stone in proper position for holding the line keeping up the entrance to the tent; as Ig-loo-lik peoide make their tents. Joe, Hannah, and Koo-loo-a are Ji sure the oblontjshaped tenting-place and the stones at the corners and otitside row of small stones tell the tiuth, that Innuits never did that work. The contrast particularly striking between the tenting-place of the whites and that of the natives. A small stump of a tree found in the circle of an Innuit teuting-idace, and not decayed, but white with age, showed hard life among th(^ ice of the sea of Ak-koo-lee. Evening notes. — All day we have been hard at work cutting out snow- blocks in search of the cache-stones, but in vain. One W(ndd Ije greatly de- lighted to see the excavations and upturned blocks all around made in searching for lost cache stones. * * # 2(ith. — Joe and Hannah, being well acquainted with white men's ways, are as certain as is Koo-looa that white men had an encampment here. Having- with them provisions for two days only. Hall's party were forced to return to their sixth igloo First, however, he took down the monument stone by stone, yet without finding anj- record or sign to tell with more certainty who had built it. Koo-ho-a " was 348 Survey of the Northwest Coast. (April, lAOH. !• ! ' ■' [ i.M ''•■\ the most disiippointed oiio of tlio pjuty, for he expressed lionest fesirs tluit he woiihl be thought to have told u falsehood." Yet his cliarac- ter for entire truthfulness had been and still remained inujuestioned ; Hall says he had previously " shaqdy-tested this man." He left the spot with the assurance that his search for the evidence of white men's having lived a strugghng life in those regions had not been in vain, for they had found a monument and tenting-place made by WHITE MEN. From astronomical observations and compass-bearings he now determined the coast-line between Cape Englefield the most western l)oint of the Strait sighted by Parry, and Cape Crozier the most no)thern reached by Ilae in 1847; by which survey he may be justly said to have filled up this broken hne of the Admiralty chart for the northwestern part of Melville Peninsula at and below the western outlets of Fury and Hecla Strait. This was, at least, a liberal compensation for the disapj)ointment keenly felt on leaving the spot without rec- ords or closer traces of white men. Just before again reaching their igloo, Koo-loo-d's sharp eyes spied a hole in it, and as the tracks of a wolverine had been already seen, alarm was taken for the safety of their provisions On coming nearer, walrus-hide, meat, and blubber were seen scattered here and there on the ice ; but on Hall's breaking open the door, he found that the ani- mal had but scratched two or three little holes through the snow-plat- form and dragged out the articles without carrying them into its hole. A delay of one day more would pi'obably have cost the party the loss of all their food. Not satisfied to give np the search for Franklin's men whom he I i;;iife i-Tiuy, iNON.i Vitiil to Amlufst IsUuid. WW) i' f! still beliovod that iio inif^lit find yet livlii<^, lu; next cximiiiiiMl tlio southern shores ot" the Stnilt, and endeavored to cross to tho northern coast, hoping also to nuike some ^eograijhical determinations there. The exceeding- roughness of the ice j)ennitted him to advance on foot only, with one companion and one dog. From the main island of a group in the mouth of the Strait he took additional observations, bearings, and sextant angles, to fix tho position of the new island to the nortlnvest of Cape Englefield On the south side of the islet on which he stood, the rock appeared to have l)een polished to the height of 50 feet above the sea by the moving ice-masses. I'he whole strait was filled with rugged ice, pack and old floe, some of the old floe pieces a mile square; one small unbroken floe was plainly of the t| formation of the year previous. Old floes abounded, full of hills, val- leys, and lakes, nearly all denuded of snow, and covered by huge bergy pieces thrown up by jjressure in the open season. Tho Innuits said that occasionally there is a year in which the straits are entirely clear of ice. " Parry and Lyon would have hailed such a season." A On the 30th, with the same companion, Frank Lailor, Hall visited : | some islets off Cape Englefield, searching again thoroughly for monu- ' itf ments or other signs of human beings. His next exploration was along- '][ the southern coast as far as East Cape, and from that point to Parry's '*| Amherst Island, on which, however, he fouiul nothing really indicat- ing that any one had been there of late years. Three flat slate stones were seen placed on each other, with their moss side down. For a return to the Oo-glit Islands, a choice was to be made between continuing down the strait and their outward route by Quill- iam Creek, the latter of which routes was taken to avoid delay, which the roughness of the ice might cause. A prompt return was IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) M.O I.I 1^12^8 |2.5 auuu 1.8 IIIIIM 1.25 III 1.4 1.6 '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation \ :\ \ rv 6^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 -1^^ '^^4^ 1% 350 Return to the Oo-fjlit Isles. may, ises. necessary, as tlieir supplies, made up at first for fifteen days only, had now been drawn upon nearly three weeks. Finding an easy passage over the land to the creek, by the 6th of May they had rapidly fol- lowed it down, and, passing through Hooper Inlet, after some delays occasioned by the softness of the snow, arrived at the Oo-glit Islands early on the 8th, having in fifteen hours accomplished a journey of fifty- {:| seven statute miles from their last halting-place on the ice of the inlet. On this journey the only living thing seen was a crow. They had found that the fox which had been set up on the snow pillar by Koo- loo-a had been canied off by some Innuit, who had substituted for it the shoulder-blade of a walrus ; this dried meat was relished by the !!'| hungry return party. When coming near the Oo-glit Isles, Hall ■;::| "looked out upon a long impenetrable cloud of blackness overhang- i| i ing the iceless waters of Fox Channel. The wind blowing fresh from lil the south and the aurora actually working on the face of the black- novss, made it seem, as we approached this world of blackness, as though we were going right straight into the lower regions in the literal signifi- cant sense of the word." The population of the village was now again increased by the coming in of several new families from the northeast to see the stranger. The first news which he heard was the loss of Ag-loo-ka and his friend E-nu-men, who were irrecoverably swept away while wah'using on the ice; the next was that another native had further accounts to give him of Kia!s strange white man. Hall determined to defer a proposed geographical exploration of the strait and go over to Tern Island to see this man. Whatever judgments may now be passed upon his persistence in this search for Franklin's sur- vivors, his own words at the time were, " No man, knowing what I do, Mui ' i 1 t i 1 ■ t ' ■ \ if i " .'I 1:1 I 'II^S nnj, IHttN. Visit to Tern Island. 351 cjin possibly believe otherwise than tliut part of the lost companions of Franklin and Crozier have been living tor several years on Melville Peninsnla." But while preparing to visit Tern Island he made a survey of the Oo-glit group. Its open sea was rolling its high waves upon the shore, and its waters were alive with walrus, ducks, and sea-gulls— now-yers. Thousands of ducks filled the air with such music as made the place anything but solitary. On the 1 2th, his party, with Papa and his family who had now rejoined them, set off for Ig-loo-lik and Tern Island, but when near the former place they met with a sister of Kia, a long conversation with whom bro' .^"ht out facts substantiating the same old story ; at Tern Island the new friend, Kud-loon, gave him essentially the same particu- lars. The people of this island being found destitute, TTall shared with them some of his supplies, and made them presents. Confined to his hut by snow-blindness {an-koot-ed for it), the an-ge-ho gave as a reason for his sufferings that he had eaten out of an unsuitable pan, and had visited the igloo of one of Koo-loo-a's wives on the Oo-glit Islands at a time when he should not have done so. Before leaving Tern Island, he bartered needles, thimbles, fish-hooks, &c., for dogs, intending to make an exploring journey down the east side of Fox Channel, but again relinquished such an object, saying he had at last been able to conquer his almost uncontrollable desire to discover new lands, and had brouffht back his feelings of duty, to stick to the mission of finding out about the lost white men. Nood-loo, a native of Ig-loo-lik, drew for him the accompanying sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet. This inlet, near the east end of Fury and Hecla Strait, he learned, is in reality a Sound, sweeping round to the eastward and forming a large island. To prosecute yet one more search, on the 18th of the month, la ill n I ; rfe '■i 'l I'' ■! ■1' I » -^ S> n 1 ifi 1' '.'.' m E'l a' J 352 Tetiiinii-Plmc on (iifford River. [mar, 1H68. II company with Fnuik, Vapa, Tou-tir.-che-uk, his wife, und two children, he be<;Mn a journey to Parry's "(Jifford River," hjivinji^ heard in con- versations subsequent to tliose wliich have been referred to that a tenting'-phice and otlier sij^ns of white men would be found there. On the IDth, he entered this river, which proved to be really an arm of the sea, receiving several rivulets which his guide said are tilled with salmon in the autunni. Its Innuit name, Kun-nuk-tiu, means a bay. On the northeast shore a tenting-place was foinid, of which Hall made the accompanying sketch; but, with the exception of two shot and a pecuhar arrangement of the stones, there was no special indication of its liav- ing been occupied by civil- ized men. It will be re- membered that Parry's men visited it. On this journey several seal ar/loos were seen, from Avhich the young seals escaped, but a skillful Innuit captured a full-grown animal while he was sleeping and sunning himself on the ice. The usual strategy had SCRAPEU, TO ATTBACT THE 8KAL. been exercised of hitching the body, feet foremost, step by step, to- ward the seal, and occasionally raising the head and looking around. Mnj, tHHH.] More Tal/us with the Innuits. 353 as the aniiTiiil constantly does when on the watch, tlie man then drop- ping his liead into a cat-nap, sind finally scratching on the snow with the scraper, which is made for this purpose. By thus imitating the noise wliich the seal makes with his flipper, he enticed it to come near him. The harpoon was then swiftly driven in. By noon of the 21st, Hall had passed through some severe storms, but was again near Ig-loo-lik, and, after holding more talks through the next five days, prepared to return to Repulse Bay. P^'or his sup- plies to reach that place he found it necessary to take great care of what he had collected; for, with a new experience of his Iinmit friends, he now found that no sooner did he barter for walrus-meat than a crowd rushed into his igloo and devoured it. They seem to have looked upon his stores as inexhaustible, and felt they had claims uj)on him for the information given in the long talks into which he had led them. The details of these talks fill a number of pages in the books A and B, heretofore named. They were essentially repetitions of the conversations in April. An intelligent Innuit named Oong-er-luk drew for him just before his leaving Ig-loo-lik the accompanying sketches of the coast of Fox Channel and of Admiralty Inlet. They have been reproduced liter- ally from Hall's note-books. The Innuit names are those given by Oong-er-luk for the numbers whicli he placed on his maps. His sketches, with those drawn by Ar-mou, Ou-e-la, Papa, and In-nook-poo- zhe-jook in 1869, are presented as specimens of Innuit ideas of native localities ; — ideas generally found to be very correct, as it will be remembered were those shown by the map drawn by the woman I-lig- liuk for Parry. [See also Chapell's letter to Hall, page 35 of this Nan*ative.] S. Ex. lil- -26 354 Oong-er-luKs Maps of Fox Channel. [nmy, 1868. SKETCH OF THE NORTHEAST COAST OF FOX CHANNEL BY THE INNUIT OONG-ER-LUK. V • t!" I* i ii 1. Ou-ker-nar-chu. {Never frozen chan- nel.) 2. Es-se-tii-e.ju-a. 3-3. Tooki-an. 4. Tej-see-u-ark. 5. Koo-be-nar-chii. 0. Ki-ki-tar-chu, 7, Kfid-gru-yer. {Name of isle.) 8. Ar-kim-e-nun. y. Ig-lftk-ju-in. 10. Keii-nuk-lukju-a. 11. Noo-wier. (Long point.) 12. Is-shook-too. 13. Tik-ik-kuu. 14. Ee-nk-ju-ar-chu. {A mountain, xteep on all sides but one.) 15. Ariig-u-yarn. 16. Ing-nier-ing. 17. Noon-ee-tar. 18. Ear-kee. 19. Wear-chin. 20. Tee-kera-chu. 21. Eak-pin. 22. Ki-erk-chu-ken. 23. Oo-glit. 24. E-pe-u-tiu. {The isthmus, where many of the Innuits from Northumber- land Inlet died, some of starvation, some by murder. Tookoolitoo's sister was of the ones killed.) 25. Shar-tuk-ju-a. 20. King-ark-ju-a. 27. Shok-bur. ( Water and land). 28. Tar-ri-o-ar-chu {Bay.) 29. Pce-lig. ( Where rice,- enters bay.) 30. Ee-8oo-e-too. {Small lake.) 31. Teg-suk-ju-a. {Larffe lake.) 32. Ar-ten-ni-en. 33. Ou-le-chee-wa-chii. 34. In-iiooksLe-lik. ( Lake and land.) 35. Kung-ook-too. 36. Mi-uk-too-le-ar-clju. {Bay.) 37. Ned-lu-ark-ju-a. 38. Ki-ki-tar-loo. {Name of the two isles.) 39. Man-uk-toe. 40. Arng-mark-ju-a. 41. Kig-gur-wig. 42. Nug-lee-we-too. 43. Shartoo. {Between 43 and Uis Skeoch Bay of Parry^s chart.) 44. Kop-e-e-we. {Cape Elwyn of Parry's chart.) 45-46. Sed ler. {The land southeast and cast of Cape Konig of Parry's chart.) 47. See-er-wark-ju. 48. Im-me-yay-too. 49. Ki-uk-tar-bin. 50. Wall-ing-yer. y NOTES WRITTEN DOWN BY HALL FROM DICTATION BY OONG-ER-LUK. From Shar-too (43) to the " high land " of sketch, it would take six days with dogs and an unloaded sledge, the dogs going fast. As Innuits generally travel, !•;. <'up<< Klwyii SKETCH (IF N.E. COAST OF TOX CHANNEL Bv till- Iiinuii Ooiig-er-Uik JJi'uwn May 'i.V-^ 18rt^ \i I ^i: in«r. iNes.] Oo)iff-('r-lul>'s Map of Admirnltji fnlct. 355 with f'liiiiilieH and lioiiKoliold ^oods, it wnnld tako lit'tHMi diiys ; so 8)iy Inniiits that Iiiivo lived for iiiuny suiiiiiiers all aloufj the coast sketehed. I think tlie distanoo from Shartoo (43) to said hijjli hind to be from 'J'A) to ;$()() miles. From Ned -hi- ark-Jua (37), old man Noii-le arju says one can see the mountain which is near to the very larjje lake whing-er-liik Drawn May 23''-'' 1868 , l^ ^ ;>. ^ tiiS' b 1 ^^*^ ?3 (. W A S \ >< 1% t^ ia(7 i^ t i M if 1 I- I ' i ', 'til ' , : d ■] \' i M if li ilfr Junr, 1868. The Trees Near Hopjmer's Creek 357 tant and the interruptions by rain and storm and by his own suffer- ings, prevented his observations from being more than approximate. Arriving on tlie east side of the head of Hoppner Inlet, he found three small streams, in one of which was an abundant growth of wood in a cluster of undergrowth showing some creeping trees which spread themselves out. One of these was 1 1 feet in length and 2 inches in diameter at the base. It was seen that " where a portion of the tree in its creeping position pressed hard upon the earth, it had sent down numerous branches of roots."* The river where this wood is in such abundance, empties itself into the one by which he was encamped just before it enters the head of Hoppner's Creek. " It comes down a wild ravine, having steep mount- ain-high sand-banks on either side." Hall wrote with these words : "When the lakes have their ice loosened, all the three rivers will pour down their living, dancing waters, when salmon will greatly abound where fresh and salt water mingle." He was at the time heartily tired of walrus, deer-meat, and tood-noo. "His mouth watered in vain for salmon," which Papa and Hannah had failed to secure. He explored the region between the head of this inlet and Lyon's Inlet, and, striking across the land to Haviland Bay, arrived on its banks on the 24th, crossed on its thin ice on the day following, at times through water a foot deep, and at 4 a. m. of the 26th, regained his encampment at Tal-loon; the sledge journey had been one of ninety-six days. It was a satisfaction to find the white men whom he had hired in full health. His dogs, too, were in as good condition as when they had started out. His Innuit friends gave him a present of * For a most interesting accnunl of trees growing still further north, some of them 3 feet in diameter, found in a ravine, see Osliom's account of McClure's Northwest Passage ; also, Meach.-im'a report of the trees found on Prince Patrick Island, in lat. 76° 15', long. 121° 40.' <* < ■ \ r M i f t| ■4 :wi 358 Successful Salmon-Fishing. IJutr, 1868. 1' i salmon, some of which measured 32 to 37 inches in length, weigh- ing from 9 to 13 pounds each. The record of the two remaining summer months presents as inci- dents of special interest a successful season for salmon-fishing and deer-hunting; the very unfortunate, though justified, shooting of one of the five hirei' men; and the capture of another whale, the pos- session of which, together with renewed supplies from friends in the United States, encouraged Hall to hope that he could remain over still another year and yet reach King William's Land. In this it will be found he succeeded in the following spring. A supply of salmon had always been an object, as well for the change which it offered from the unvarying rough Arctic food, as for the value of the fish when dried and stored for the winter; but up to this time little success liad rewarded the best efforts made by Hall and his hired men either with their nets or spears. The Innuits, through long practice, were experts in spearing, and they seemed to have gen- erally considered the fishing-grounds as their exclusive property. The notes of July 2() record a determination not to be outdone in the work. Hearing that they were securing very many fish and his men very few. Hall, though quite ill, jumped from his bed, and quickly dressing, ordered each of his company to repair promptly their sadly broken spears, for he would see whether white men could be so easily beaten ; " one need not starve while such food abounds." As the tide w;is about to flood, it became necessary to make great haste or our chance would be lost till next ebb ; so every one worked with a will. When the spears were in order, I organized my men into a regular fish fighting com- pany, and then into the deep pools all in line we plunged, or in fact waded thigh deep. The Innuits had all left, each having caught as many as he could well attend to, except Ar-goomoo-toolik, whom I requested to desist while I made a I i! i^: Jmlr, 1868.] The Mutiny. 359 •V'i trial with my men alone. In one hour from the time we entered the ice-cold water we had e^'ery spear broken, so that not one in a dozen salmon struck could be saved. Then, all in a line, behind and by the side of our net, waist-deep in the pool, we marched, dragging the net and driving the salmon like sheep before us. When well advanced to the upper end of the pool, the water was found to be black with floundering fish. Having reached a narrow place where the net stretched from shore to shore, and penned in the salmon completely, myself, Joe, Frank, and all the rest except Antoine, who played sick, went to work scooping out salmon, and in a few minutes caught one hundred and seventy-five, the total weight of which exceeded 1,000 pounds, for the greater number were quite large. The Innuits acknowledged themselves beaten. Hall attributed his success to the use of his excellent Brevoort net, with which he thought he would have even doubled the number taken if he had been allowed the first chance at the pool. A most unhappy record is now to be made. From the date of his return from Fury and Hecla Strait some dissatisfaction seems to have been growing among the hired men whom he had left at the encamp- ment when setting out on that journey. They had been lacking in their care of the stores, backward on going out on the hunts, and tardy when absent on these, as well as hurtfully careless in feeding the dogs. The ill-feeling manifested by several of them toward Hall, arising pos- sibly from the uncertainty as to the time when any ships would appear in the bay to take them to their homes, culminated in the unfortunate affair which is best presented in his own words : July 31. — Gave Peter his order to take my rifle and go on a deer-hunt, and to take along Antoine and Pat, and show them where a certain deer he had killed and deposited was, and have them bring it in. The party started oflf at 10 a. m. A short time after, sent Sam out to get a deer-skin and the buck-meat my Joe ha