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 4 5 6 
 
BRITISH COLUMBIA MISSION. 
 
 \ 
 
 ANY very kind friends allowed me to appeal for the Columbia 
 Mission in their parishes, and I shall ever remember with 
 gratitude and pleasure the generous sympathy I received in 
 all quarters from both clergy and laity. To not a few I promised to 
 give from time to time information about ihe work going on in this 
 far-off western region. Allow me to commence a fulfilment of that 
 promise by using the pages of Mission Life, a publication in which 
 I have for many years taken a lively interest. The Church is greatly 
 indebted to it for the support it has rendered in the holy work of 
 extending Christ's kingdom. 
 
 We left England on May lOth, and Moville, a few miles below 
 Londonderry, during the evening of May nth. Never was made a 
 more propitious voyage, as we had smooth water day after day, and 
 anchored off Quebec^on Saturday, the 19th. On Sunday, tlie 13th, 
 wc had Divine service, which was well attended. The pleasure of the 
 passage was throughout much increased by the excellent conduct of 
 the passengers, among whom were the Rector of Buckhurst Hill, the 
 Rev. C. J. Ridgway, and his dear old friend, Mr. liarnes, the well 
 known chemist, who, by their cheerfulness and religious bearing, 
 exercised a great influence for good. 
 
 Quebec by moonlight looked lovely. The plains of Abraham, where 
 
434 
 
 MISSION LIFE. 
 
 Wolfe fell, were before us, ai.d the citadel, with extensive barracks, 
 crowned the heights. We had no time to examine the city, as the 
 steamer for Vancouver Island would leave San Francisco on the 30th, 
 and should we be too late, our party of seven would have to remain in 
 the golden city for ten days, at four guineas a day. I would here 
 observe that the traveller from Quebec or New York should always 
 book through to San Francisco and Victoria, V. I,, as the fare from 
 Chicago is the same as frojn Quebec. In America a railway ticket is 
 good till used. It is therefore a common practice for any one going 
 from New York or Quebec to Chicago (about 1,000 miles) to take a 
 ticket to San Francisco, fare ;(;"24, and on arrival at Chicago to sell the 
 ticket to a "scalper" for £22, so securing the journey for about £2. 
 The scalper sells the ticket to any traveller bound for the Pacific, and 
 so gains five to eight dollars by the transaction. The "scalper" 
 business is said to be highly profitable. 
 
 An express train is alwaj-s provided for travellers arriving by the 
 Atlantic steamers, so we proceeded at once to Montreal, where we re- 
 mained a few hours. At 10.30 v.M. we made for Chicago, where we 
 stayed a night. It was strange indeed to see two men with their heads 
 bare proclaiming from the middle of the street the high character of the 
 Mivocsota Hotel. W'c had plenty of time to examine well this won- 
 drous city, much of which has risen from its ashes in a marvellous 
 way. The buildings are \ery lofty and nearly all of brick and stone, 
 and as it is the great centre for lumber and bread stuffs, Chicago must 
 go on prospering. For particulars of its rise, progress, und present 
 doings, I must refer readers to the many descriptions given by travel- 
 lers or found in American handbooks. I would suggest that for ladies 
 travelling across the American continent it is almost a necessity to 
 break the journey, so making it a pleasure instead of a serious trouble. 
 To go through without stop[)ing is a dangerous experiment. 
 
 There are many objects of interest on the way, but the tales of 
 sublime scenery are wild exaggerations. Crossing the Sierra Nevada 
 Range presents grand mountain views, but oh, the dreary days of 
 sage grass desert, teeming with alkali, or of uninteresting prairie land 
 as level as a croquet ground ! The Pulman Cars are delightfully com- 
 fortable, and not so very expensive. Providing a day's rest is taken 
 en mute the crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific is simply one long 
 pic-nic. The Allan Company is very liberal. They take Missionaries 
 at a reduced rate, .^11, and from Quebec to Vancouver Island the 
 through ticket is ^29 17s. Cd. I'^ood will cost, including hotel at San 
 iM'ancisco, C^, and I'ulman Car about the same. Thus the total out- 
 lay between Liverpool and Victoria is as nearly as possible fifty 
 
 gumcas. 
 
 We arrived in San 1'raiicisi.o on Monda)-, May 28th, and left for 
 
UKITISII COLUMEIA MISSION. 
 
 435 
 
 long 
 
 Victoria on the 30th. Again vvc had peaceful waters, and on Satur- 
 day evening found ourselves safely moored off the Esquimalt wharf, 
 protected by three men-of-war — the Opal, Daring, and Rocket. 
 
 Early on Sunday wc made for Victoria, three miles away, and there 
 in God's house returned thanks publicly for the great mercies He 
 had vouchsafed us. There is something very charming in the repose 
 of a church after a long voyage. Railways and steamers are so 
 utterly forgotten, for the heart is entirely taken up with things not 
 earthly. In good truth, we were glad when the bells of the Cathedral 
 bade us come up to the house of the Lord, 
 
 And now it will be asked, " After twelve years' absence from the 
 colony, in what state did you find the Church.-'" To answer that 
 question I cannot do better than state what has come before me 
 during the past few weeks. The story will I am sure be gratifying to 
 all who take an interest in the Columbia Mission. My first ministra- 
 tions were in the Cathedral, which stands on the finest site in Vic- 
 toria. It is a wooden structure with a lofty tower, thoroughly eccle- 
 siastical in its design, and well arranged internally — better far than 
 many churches of its size in England. The liishop is Dean, and 
 preaches every Sunday morning. I was pleased to find him looking 
 so hale and strong. lie is supported in his Cathedral by the Rev. H. 
 Mogg, who also is principal of the Collegiate School, and by the 
 Archdeacon, who takes the evening sermon every Sunday. There is 
 a large choir, an excellent organ, and an earnest congregation. Could 
 any of the subscribers to the Columbia Mission attend a Cathedral 
 service in Victoria, they would at once confess that to stand by its 
 ever-labouring Bishop is money well expended. Holy Communion is 
 celebrated weekly at 8 A.M., save on the first Sunday in the month. 
 The communicants were more than generally found at home out of 
 the same number of worshippers. During the afternoon a well- 
 attended Sunday-school is held in the Collegiate School-room, at 
 which a small class of Chinese read the Bible. 
 
 On the following Sunday I was duly instituted as Archdeacon of 
 Vancouver Island, and preached the morning sermon. Innnediately 
 after the service the Bishop, his chaplain, and myself drove off to 
 Metchosin, a country district about 15 miles from Victoria. To reach 
 the church, charmingly situated in, as it were, an ICnglish park of oaks 
 {Qncrcus Garriciisis), maple, fir, walnut, &c., you have to go along 
 the coast, the view ever varying and ever pleasing, the sea constantly 
 appearing, backed by the snow-clad mountains of Washington ter- 
 ritory. On our arrival a bright party of earnest Church pco])le greeted 
 us, and soon wc were hap|)ily engaged in worship, the candidates, two 
 males and nine females, occupying tlic front seats. The church itself 
 would have satisfied thv. most sensitive Christian, as the simple gothic 
 
 ir);i773 
 
436 MISSION LIFE. 
 
 building is after a thoroughly ecclesiastical design. The crowded 
 congregation was devout, and the candidates remarkably calm and 
 attentive. The Bishop tenderly pleaded with the young people, im- 
 ploring them, for the love of their Redeemer, to keep their garments 
 pure. I am liappy to say they all communicated on the following 
 Sunday. Immediately after the confirmation we drove back to 
 Victoria, and arrived just in time for the evening service. Solemn 
 and, I may say, truly happy day was Sunday, June loth. 
 
 On Thursday, June I4tli, I had further reason to rejoice, for then 
 came the consecration of Cowichan Church, of which Mr. Holmes, 
 formerly Missionary to the Yale Indians, is pastor. It was a touch- 
 ing sight to see in Victoria some nine chiefs and the devoted Mary 
 (a well-known convert), earnest Christians, who had come more than 
 150 miles on their way to be with their old minister, when a new 
 house was made over for ever to the Sackalee Tyhee — the great 
 God — a house much of which had been built by the hands of Mr. 
 Holmes. A steamer received us at 6.30 A.M. and carried us 50 
 miles to Cowichan Bay, where waggons met us. While at sea it 
 was precisely as if we were threading the Grecian Archipelago, so 
 numerous and green were the islands and the sky so blue and bright. 
 But oh, the waggons ! If ever divines were much shaken, the Bishop 
 and his clergy were that day. Mr. Mogg and I sat immediately over 
 the hind wheels, and as there were no springs the jumping, jolting, 
 and jogging were terrible to endure. At last we could bear it no 
 longer, and took to our feet and comfort. The walk was delightful, 
 and we reached the church just in time. Not a vacant scat was there, 
 and cheering, indeed, was the sei-vicc, the worshippers responding 
 heartily ; and as to the singing, it was a real shout of praise. I 
 preached a plain sermon. The Holy Communion was then cele- 
 brated, and I am liappy to say the offerings were large. It is very 
 striking the way struggling farmers give in this colony. They show 
 very significantly how they value the means of grace. 
 
 At two o'clock a large jjarty sat down to a luncheon provided by 
 the inhabitants of the district. The supplies were excellent— all 
 the produce of the country. Opposite the Bishop was a fine sucking- 
 pig, which coniinanilcd great attention ; then were seen ducks, fowls, 
 lamb, &c,, with tarts and fruits of all kinds. Strong drink was un- 
 known, but refreshing tea, coffee, milk, and cream abounded. There 
 we were as happy as possible under the clear blue sky, protected from 
 the glowing sun by luxuriant trees, the ground around rich with wild 
 fiowers. We did in good truth enjoy ourselves, but the great subject 
 of our joy was that one more church had been consecrated to the 
 glory of the Giver of all good. As the evening drew in we retraced 
 our steps seaward, and, as the moon was rising, embarked on board 
 
 th 
 
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 CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 437 
 
 the good ship Cariboo Fly. Hymns, bright and cheering hymns, were 
 
 sung at intervals for some three hours, and about midnight rest was 
 
 sought by a happy but wearied party of colonists, who had striven, I 
 
 trust not without success, to do God holy service. By the next mail 
 
 I shall hope to give you more particulars of Church-doing in the far-off 
 
 Diocese of Jkitish Columbia. M. p. Wuicirr 
 
 ., ,, ArchdiMcon of l\incou-vcr Island. 
 
 VicToKiA, Vancouver Island, yw/y 24///, 1877.