\E.vtracl form Traasnctions of tha (Jiumdiun Institute, ISllO,^ DIARY OF GOV. STMCOE'S JOURNEY FROM IIUMRER HAY TO MATCIIE'rALlIE HAY, 1793. [The writer of the following interestinj; account of the above journey was the late yon. Alex- ander Mnciionell, one of the liest known of the early citizens of Toronto. He wa^ Ijorn in 1762, :ii Fort Aut;uslus, Jnvemcsshire, Scotland, .nnil was the son of ('apt. Allan Macduncll, who with his family and other relatives cMiigralcd in 1773 *" ''"^ Mohawk Valley, in the then British Province of New York. When the Revolutionary war broke out in 1776, the Loyalist Scottish settlement, to which the Macdonells belonged wa^ disarmed, and Capt. Allan Mac|)are inatters for our journey. IHh Excelltnoy, Lieutenant-Governor Sinicoo, joined us IVoui York. We siiortly allerwanls were n a ly timl cntcroil the woods, kcuping our course about N.N. \V., cro.^scd a loni^ pine ridj^'e. About one o'clock, dined upon a small river which eniiilies itsell into thf Ilinnber, and, lo make tlio loads lighter, took the bones out of the pork. After dinner, re-loaded our horses and pursued our journey. Abrmt lour nV-lock, it bei|;inaing to rain, we encamped on the side of the llumber, at the west extremity of the 3rd con- cession. We here got some wild grapes and a ((uantity of crawfish. 2t>th. — .At eight o'clock continued our journey. Fn the early part of the day, went over a pine ridge ; but from ten till six in the evening, when we eneampcd, went tlnoutrh excellent land for grain or grass, the trees uneoninioidy large and tall, especially the pine. Crossed two small crei-ks wliieh emptied themselves into the llumber, on one of which (Druidicn Creek) we dined, and encamped on the second The land through which we passed is chiefly wooded with maple, bass, beech, pine and oeda'-. During this day's miueh we passed the encampment of an Indian trader, who was on his way to his wintering ground on Lake LaClaie. 27th. — Proceeded on early in the morning. Shortly after leaving our fires went through a ridge of very tine pine, u liicli appeareil to l)e bounded by a deep ravine to the north. After crossing in an oblif|ue direction tlie pine ridge, went over excellent laml, black rich mould; timber, maple, beech, black birch, and bass. Crossed a ravine and ascended a small eminence of indiii'erent land. This height terminated in a point, and a gradual descent to the lliver Ilumbei', which we crossed. We dined here, and remained two hours to refresh ourstdves and horses. While at dinner, two men with two horses, who left the end of the carrying place in the morning, met us. They were going to l)ring forward tiie trader which we passed the preceding day, and his goods. Alter dinner proceeded on. Went over very uneven grouml, the soil in some places inditferent, but in general not bad laml. Saw some very fine yellow pine and black birch. About six o'clock came to the end of the carrying place and encamped. Here found Mr. Cuthbertson, Indian trader, and owner of hut we passed the day before, encamped. 28th.— .\fter breakfast, Messrs. Givcns and Aitken, with two Indiatis and two white men, went up the river for three canoes which had been previously provided for the Governor, and I went with three ran^rors to Iti8y-'J0.] IHAUV or UOVKitNOH sIMtOE. J erect a stage near the river to put the pork, &c., on when brought down from the oncjunpmcJit. I hiving acooin)ilistie(l this, upon our return wo cut a few trees to make a bridge upon a b.id pass in the swamp. Keturned to camp about two u'chjck, and sliortly afterwards to the stage with seven of the rangers, all with packs whieh we put upon the stage. We here met Messirs. Givens and Aitken, having' returned with the canoes. The whole then returned to camp only me, who remained ti» take care of the baggage. In about two hours the wlmle came d.iwn, and we immediately embarked into five canoes, viz., the G(n'crni«r, Mr. Aitken, an Indian, and two rangers in one; Messrs. Pilkington and Darling, with their tv,-o servants in the second ; ^^r. Givens and two Indians 'n a third; an Indian and two rangf'rs with me in the fourth ; and Mr. Aitken's surveying party in the fifth. AVe dragged our canoes till we came to the river, over a part of the swamp where it would l»e impossible to walk without their support, it being a quaginii^'e, the skin or surface of which was verv thin. Proceeded aitout a mile ;ind a half or two miles abmg the river, which in this shurt distance has several turns. Went about a (juarter of a mile up a smaller river which empties itself into the former, and encamped. Soon after making our fires, the Great Tail and lii.s family < Messessagues), who vn'.re encamped further up the river, came to visit their Great Father, the Gover- nor, to whom they presented a pair of ducks, some beaver's meat, and a beaver's tail. Ilis Excellency gave them .lome rum and tobacco. 2l)th. — Embarked into our canoes in the same manner as the preceding day, paddled down the river, which is a dead water, bordered on each side with (fuagmires similar to the one we hauled our canoes over. About two hours after leaving camp, Mr. Givens came into ni\' caiioe and the Indian went into his; but our canoe made much water and we could not keep up with the others ; we shortly after got the Indian back again. At twenty minutes after one we entered Lake La(Maie, now Lake Simeoe, so called in memory of Captain Simeoe of the R. N. At the entrance of the lake wo saw two canoes, who upon seeing us paddled oti to their village, which was upon a point about four miles otl", to apprise thein of the (Tovernor's arrival. We paddled on towards the poiiit and p.assfd the village close in shore. The Itxlians who were by this time assembled, fired a j'n after our landing the Indians came in a body to wait on the Governor, to whom they presented a beaver blanket, whicti he declined taking then, but promised to take it upon his return from Matchctaehe Bay. They were all more or less drunk ami made rather an unintelligible speech. They got liquor from four Canadians wiio had been sent from Matchetache Bay by 4 TRANSACTIONS OK TIIK CANADIAN INSTITUTK. [V'OI.. I. Cowan, an Indian trader, to buy corn. \l\^ Excellency was sorry that he could not 3C0 Keeiiecs. the chief of the village, with whom ho was acquaint- ed, as he was daiigeronsly ill We left our smallest oaiif>e here, and got one Indian in lieu of the two Indians belonging to the village, who preferred remaininnr to proceeding on the journey. Alter dinn(;r we re-embarked, and the wind being fair, hoisted sail, and about dark put on siiorc and encamped in a cedar grove about six miles from the village iiOth. — l>eft our encampment abont ten o'clock. Mr. Givens was taken into the Governor's canoe, and in his plac(; one of the rangers put into mine. Sailed on with a strong breeze about si.\ niilo::, and it blowing too fresh to cross Kempcnfelt Hay, put in at Point Endeavour, when' we remained till two o'clock, and dined. After dinner, the winu moderating a little, we again hoisted sail and crossed tjie bay, which is between seven and eight miles dee)i ind four and five wide. We hud scarcely got over when the wind blew hard ahead, and it beginning to rain we encamped in a pleasant spot on the side of the lake. October 1st. — Embarked about eight o'clock, and having a contrary wind had to paddle against a head swell, which impeded our going much, and frequently dashed water into our catiocs. Put in for a few minutes to take the bearings at a blutf point about six miles from onr last encampment. This being accomplished we coasted close in shore for .■'ome time and, the wind abating, made for an islaml near the head ot the lake, and landed there about two o'clock, and dined. This island, now Francis's Island is pleasantly situateil, having a fine prospect of the lake. Tlie Indians used to raise corn upon it, but have not for some time. It is ((uite covered with long grass. About two o'clock we embarked, .and shortly after leaving the island entered a small straight, near the far extremity of which we saw two Indians in a canoe paddling across. 80 soon as the Indian in the (iiivrrnor's canoe perceived thorn he ^ave th(> death hallow: the stransre Indians made for land, and we, seeing the, Avigwam, followed. So soon as our Inoian gi>t near enough to be heard he made a melancholy detail of the number of deaths that had lately lia|ipened among the Lake Sinicoo Indians, and closed his sp'-eoh with saying "that the end of the world was at hand, Indians would be no more.'' An old Indian, owner of the wig- wam, gave a similar unpit asant account of the great sickness in his neigh- bonrhood also, aiid added that he expcct(;d bis eldest son would soon change his climate, and that nothing but his being unwell prevented his going to bis wintering ground. His ICxcellency made this family a small present, and we parted. Soon after leaving them, the wind turning fair, we hoisted sail. At this place the lake widens, and is interspersed with small islands, on some of which the Indians bad planted corn, turnips and 1 880-90. J DIARY OK (ioVKKNOH KIMrOK. B squashes. About sunsot pot lo thr hoiul of tho lako, ontorod tlio river Mat- chctachc, and cncainpod. 2nd. — Proct'edod down the river, and in the space of two hours had to carry "ur canoes, iVc , over two portages. A short distance hehtw the first carrying pUice the Bhick Ilivr empties itself into the Malchetache, and changes the coh>ur ot tliat river from clear to a dusky brown, which it does not vary until it ent arrivod that we wt-rc nhlij^cd to Ifiwcr our sails. I'pon landing, unl'iadcd iind hanh'd u[) mir faiiocs, i'n(anij>od in the woods a small dihtance from the lako, anil al)out half a mih^ fntni Mr. Cowan's houso, or rather fort, for it i:> a square stockado ; his house is in one, his store opposite to it in aniitiier, an out-house for potatoes, corn, &e., in a thii'd, and the gate in the fourth He does not allow the Indians to get drunk within the garrison. Soon after we had encamped the Indians arrived, and the Governor made each of them a present of tohaceo. Ahout eight o'elock, Mr. Cow III, who had hecn out liiinling all day, returnc(|. lie sent His K.xeolleney some ducks, and shortly afterwards came to pay hi.s respects. Mr. (,'()Wan is a decent, vespectalde looking niin, and much liketl l>y the Indian^, lie wa.s taken jirisoner by thi' French at Kort Pitt, during the w,ir of '5S and '*>!•, wlifii a hoy. He has aiiopted all the customs and manners of the Cariailians, and speaks niueh better French than English. lie has been settled af Matchetaelie upward-J of fifteen years wirhout once going to Lf>wer Canada. Me makes an annual trip to Michillimaekinac to meet his supplies there and forward his furs to Montreal. He has in treneral six Canadians eniraired w ith him, and is well known to that class of people by the name of Constant. 5th. — y\i\ Cowan having been desired by the Governor the preceding evening to attend ne.xt morning to interpret, arrived after we hail break- fasted, and the indiatis being met, addressed His Excellency in the usu;d manner: " They were liappy to see him in good health and thanked him for taking the trouble of visiting thom in then- own country, v.^'c." The Governor replied that he would always be glad to hear of the prosperity of the Indians, and eiitreateil them to attend to their hunts, and told them that he wished for nothing more than seeing them and his children, the whites, live in iiarmony together, and mutually assist each other. He promised them a keg ol rum whieh should lie delivered to them the day of his departure from the bav, and told tin- chief he would senil him from York a silver medal and a Hag, the usual liadges of distinction which this chief had not as yet received. Thoy then shook hands and went otf well satisiieil. 1 must here observe that the Lake Simcoe Indians were much mortified at the Governor not takins the beavor blanket when offered to him. This they eommunieated to the Matehetache Indians by the express which went ovirland ; and they simply replied that their father did right not to take it, that they should have made his bed upon his arrival at York (as thoy did I, and not wailed lor his arrival in their village. The Matche- taelie ImVians had jnade his bed at York by presenting a beaver blanket. |f rangers, iScc, at the encninpnuMit) intonijinjr t<< visit Pcnetangnasliin, :i place supposoil to lie a good liarhour f >r vcs.nels. Tlic wind blew so fi'csli tliat we could not rtVect oiii' purpt)se, ("specially as we had a wide traverse to make. We, however, landed upon an island called by Mr. Cowan. " IMaee la Traverse/' We got to a point (ip|)osite to it, and had an anif)l(; view of ii, and from its appearance and the account Mr. (V)wan gave of th<' l<'pth of water, I believe His Excellency was satisfieil with its sufficiency for the reception of vessels of eighty or ninety ton9. To judge from the wood, the laml about it seemed to he very good. It lays about .-ix miles within Matcbetache Bay, and nearly nine miles from Mr. Cowans'. We walked a mile and a half or two miles further, and hail a fine view of Lake Huron, then returned to the canoe and dined. After dinner reembarked, the wind beieg fair, hoisted sail and arrived at our encamj)ment about an hour sifter sunset. (itli. — Tietween nine arnl ten o'clock left our encampment, launched our canoes, and set otf ot\ our return home. Put in at the j)oint where we had met the Indians on the morning of the -kh instant, and His Excellency gave them the keg of rum agreeable to his promise. After some little ceremony on their part in wishing us favorable weather and a clear day, t&c , we pushed oft' from shore, upon which they saluted as tiiey did the day we arrived in the bay, and we answered as before witli three cheers. I'addled on and soon arrived at the carrying place ; br(mglit everything across and without halting pursui d our journey, went about five or si.\ miles further on. and landL-d upon an island. One of our Indians getting sick, Mr. Givens, with a white man and the other two Indians, returned to the })oint to bring back the sick man and get aiiMther in his place ; but before they got down, the Indians on the point had paid their devoirs so very attentively to the rum keg that they bad not the use of their limbs or reason. Finding that none would come with him, aiul expostulation being vain, he put the sick m.in on shore, pushe(l oft", and joine<('coinl of which wc ciioanipeil about suiiHot, the oiu' upon which wc slept the ni^'lit of tl>f 'Jritl 8th. — Some of the canoes bciii^; haky were here j^umnied. after which .we got on board, pachMcd pretty hard, crossed the two roniaininj^ (!arryiiig jdacca, and half an hour before sunset got to the; head uf the hike, and encamped on the spot we had occupied on the Ist. SHh. — Einliarkeil after breakfast, and having padilled against a head wind and swell Jirrived at Francis' Island at twelve o'clock. His hiXcel- lency did ititend g(»ing from this island round the opposite side of the lake to what we had come, but finding only four days' ))ro\i»ions rnnaijiing, and not knowing what time it would t.ike us by so doing, no judged it more expedient to return by the way we had come ; therefore, after dinner got on b.iard. crossed to the main land and before sunset encamped where we had slept on the o<>th of September. 1 0th. — (Jot into our canoes before sunrise, being fearful that we woidd have the wiml ahead aiul wishing to cross Kenipenfelt Bay before it blew too hard. < 'ur apprehensions were confirmed. The wind began to rise, but wc luckily got over the bay before the lake was too rough. Put on shore and breakfasted at Endeavour Point, lie-embarked and co:isted along shore. At one o'ck>ck put in, and dined about two miles' dislaiice from the village. Having ditiod and got on board w(> paddled on and soou came abrea&t of the village. The Indians lired a fc^t tlunsaid: "You white men pray; we poor Indians (iroat Spirit to rciuove the sick- ness from amongst us." To which the Governor roplieil that they shou'l certainly be rcinenjbercd in the prayers of the whites. He then ordered them a ke); of nun, and they went awiiy perfectly happy, and hi<:hly pleased that the blanket was accepted, and that they had inatlc their Father's bed. 1 1th. — About!* .''i^lock left our encauiiiiiicnt, eniharkert. His Excellency findin;» that .lohn Vin(^nll, the man who cut his toe on the 2nd, could not walk, desired Mr. (iivenn, hia servant, and nio lo reni:iin with him, and that upon his arrival at York he would send a liorse to meet us at the oM carrying place, for the man to ride; therefore after dividino^ o',r little stock of prt)visirovi(|ed rorii for two days, burrowed a canoe from the Great Tail, and enil)arked. Wc soon reached the stage which we bad erected on the 28tb, and in two trips carried everything up t > our old encampment. When we returned to the stage the second time we there met two of tiie Great Tail's sons, who came to bring three more duck and bring back the canoe we bad l)orrowed. We gave the boys a few yards of ribbon each, aned for about a quarter of an hour, then pushed on and arrived at St. John's a little past four in the evening, and slept there that night. 20th. — Left St. John's after breakfast, atid arrived at the camp at York at ten o'clock, having been absent 27 days, without any accident happen- ing, excepting Vincall cutting his toe.