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Hftit Hi'fiii 'V'ljVt > -O ^ Q.. yiAGAILV PALLS s/mm'i/u/ all fht (prominent POINTS 4i \ Jfuif/'in'MUX.Y n€fe:R£NCES I t 7 At/rtnutionai Mote/. Sf /'tof/mnf^e Churches Atrerjvs Log. * ISri'ifff ''■ H'ffh I. /i ISft/hilr,,^, .. ,'t i'lifin.Kh/l .. If tfi-rinUX lttsnftnce,fit>tU t. ft Cti/iit/i" /ftfH.r /;? t etttful/,' A', /if pet. I'.i il.i ktir -S-JfL. --*\- ■ . ^ --^ ^ \ - ^^;^: Jtfuf H'liii /^ > -c» ^ ru. OP r.l^r/.y/J'^ >:-Tfyl5i»tJB^ - ' 4! Great MTestern /Railtvc^ Mujf'tm , 1 h • ui uTTioTidvlIle £44n/ft'ii7tn»f ( 'Ut'tcn- Hpuff ^ £ ux sftctiuHt/ all fhf PftOmiNENT POINTS ADJACENT l' Koch rS^f »• A* . /f . E rr Nitlf/nrfi FrilU. .V. y 1',,'hk nii^»*w TWT • I- tr^ "■ , % *r I"* ' II Wi »•• ^> -'1, ■*^ -i ■i.-'.*^' 'SssV'^'^ '"■' ■-A $ ,v.^;- •' .», l« - •. '- ' 4» ,.''%' ^.^.'sVy^.A^iV^i *. .■ •■^ ■ - f^«>'**i, t J,alh.5 •-■^■;^:^-.^}»f,w»^t•s»l.J«^,■■. «i*»«(«»<«»3. 1 • is cave is between Goat and Luna Island. It is seen to the best advantage from below, if tlie wind is blowing down the river, or from the Ar.erican shore; you can stand with perfect safety upon a large^ flat rock, within a few feet of the falling sheet, without inconvenience, or getting the least wet In the afternoon, when the sun shines, there is always a splendid aqd beautiful rainbow, between the sheel of water and the rock, within a few feet of you, and this is the only place on the globe, as far as the au- thor can leani, from history and from travelers, where a rainbow, an entire circle Uke a ring, can be seen. Two and sometimes three have been seen at once. Nothing, in the opinion of the writer, can be more grand and imposing than this view. It is one of the most astounding scenes on the American side. Width of the cave is one hundred feet, diameter sixty, heighth one hundred. The enterprising pro- prietor has erected convenient seats, with good, sub- stantial railing, which leads you into this cava^ between the sheet of water and the rock, on to a platform beyond. It is much visited both by ladies and gentlemen, not only for the novelty of one of the grandest shower baths on earth, but the scenery is perfectlf ^ iodescribable 14 EVERY MAN IllS OWN OCIDB. lii.'i These profiles are at tlie foot of Goat IsWd. Id looking across tlie first sheet of water, directly under the second, the lowest point of rock that can be seen is a side view of three profiles, one directly above the other. They appear about two feet long, and much resemble the work of human hands ; the middle one is generally considered by strangers to be the most distinct. , . Luna, a Latin term meaning moon. It is a small island containing about thiec-fourtlis of an acre, to the right of Goat Island, reached by a foot-bridge. It is called Luna Island, not because it resembles the moon, but from the circumstance of a lunar bow being seen from this place more advantageously than from any other point. If the visitor's nervea are pretty steady, he can stand within one foot of the Falls, and see the angry stream, dashing in all its wildest fury upon the large rocks below, impatient to try its power in making this fearful leap. The sheet of water to the right is the American Fall ; to the left, the Center Fall or Cave of the Winds. It baa often been remarked by strangers that this island trembles, which is undoubtedly true, but the impressions are somdwhdt heightened &om nervona temperament. ^¥ 8AM PATCH 8 LEAP. 15 Tt wfw ftt tliis point, after wo pnas a small foot- bridge about twenty-fivo feet above the Falls, thjit young MLss Antoinette De Forest of Buffalo, aged eight years, by some unaccountable casualty fell into the river, and Charles Addington, aged twenty-two, jumped in to save her, and they both went over the Falls together, June 21st, 1849. The body of the girl was found much mutilated, the next day,, and that of the young man floated four or five days afterward, when it was recovered and buried in the village buiying ground. This was one of the most afflictive scenes that has occurred witliin our recollection. Return by the same way to Goat Island. After resting a few moments, pass up the river to a sign on a tree, Biddle Stairs. Is on the west side of Goat Island, near Biddle Stairs. This celebrated pereon made two successfid leaps in the year 1829, ninety-seven feet perpendic- ular, into the river below. Question by the visitor: How was this done ? A ladder was raised, the bot- tom roasting on the edge of the river, the top inclin- ing over it. Stayed by ropes to the trees on the bank, on the top of which was a small platform, he Btood gazing upon the multitude in Canada. The carriage-road on the opposite side of the river, and every other point where there was the least prospect 16 XVIRT HAK III8 OWN OCIDI. of seeing, waa filled with ladies and gentlemen, attracted to the place by a man going to jump over the FttlLj. "One thing," said he, "can be done as well as another," bowod to the audience, stepped off the platform, and went down feet foremost. Q. How much did he get for the job ? A. This is not known, as it was a project got up by the tavern- keepers to attract attention; whatever they gave him, they kept to themselves. Q. How dec^p is the river where he went in. A. About fifty feet. Q. How deep did he go down ? A. It is difficult tc» answer this question correctly — probably not more than fifteen or twenty feet. Water is exceedingly buoyant; when the accelerated force of the jump was spent, he would instantly rise. Q. How long did he remain under water. A. Some said, he wjis gone for good, others affirmed it was five minutes : but a gentleman holding his watch informed us, it was just half a minute before he rose. Q. What became of the foolhardy fellow? A. He made a jump at Rochester, Genesee Falls, the same year, which was his last His body was never found. Are on the west side of Goat Island, no^r the foot They were erected by Nicholas Biddle, late president of the United States Bank. "Make us something," said he to the workmen, "to descend PROSPECT TOWER. 11 and ftC'O. ^vhat is below." Those stairs arc spiral on \liii inside, tirrnly socurod by heavy iron bolts fas- U^ned into thu solid rock, and ore, we beliovo, peifeclly safe. At the foot are two paths leading in opposite directions; the one up the river leads toward the Horse Shoe Fall, but the path is so much obstructed by rocks which have fallen, and the bank is so steep, tlijit it is extremely difficult to got within thirty rodi of the Horse Shoo Fall But the best view, decid- edly, is to turn down the river a few rods, and the Center Fall or Cave of tlie Winds bursts upon the astonished sight, with all its terrific grandeur. The impending rocks hanging over you, sometimes fill tlio visitor with alarm lest they might fall, but they seldom fall in the summer season, and no accident has occurred since the year 1829. For number of steps see local distincos, page 28 Ascending these fiUiirs on his return, (for there is no other way,) if he travels very slowly, he will avoid much fatigue. On his return to Goat Island, pass up the river about sixty rods to a small house built by the pro- prietor of the island, for the purpose of rest. De- scend the bank, cross a small bridge to the tower. ThiiJ is called Prospect Tower. 16 ZVSRY MAN HIS OWN OUIDX. m ilro$piti Jolioelr. This tower is on the west side of Ooat Island, within three rods of the Falls ; forty-five feet high, and two hundred feet above the river below, surrounded near the top by a portico and an iron railing. Vis- itors of a nervous temperament, and especially old people, when stepping out upon this piazza, not un- frequently feel a kind of giddiLess or tremor; but in looking up or around u|x>n the green fohage, the nerves generally b«oome tranquil. We a^u then bei* ter prepared to appreciate the overwhelming gran- deur of this magnificent scene. This view, in the opinion of the author, of the width of the river, the rapids, the Hcrse Shoe Fall and the angry, boiling deep below, is not surpassed by any on the American side. The river below, in its wild, tumultuous fury, produces a perfect foam hke suds, and has frequently been called the river of milk. This is the entire circle from the American to the Canadian side of the river. Its width by calcalation ij» one hundred and forty-four rods. It derived its name from its shape, but it must have altered much since it was first named, as large masses of rock \t the neighborhood of the Horse Shoe, fall every yea* QUAVTITT OF WATER. 19 Qq^oiittf of aiJJife^. Professor Lyell says, fifteen hundred millions of cubic feet pass over the Falls every minute. Dr. Dwight says, one hundred millions two hundred thousand tons pass over the Falls every hour. Judge De Vaux, in his Traveler's Own Book, says, five thousand eighty-four miUions eighty-nine thousana eight hundred fifty-three barrels descend in twenty- four hours; two hundred eleven millions eight hun* dred thirty-six thousand eight hundred fifty-three every hour ; three millions five hundred thirty thou- e, clear, without touching. Hundreds saw her make this fearful plunge, and I have no doubt in my own mind that the estimates are con-ect. Tiiis, then, gives a solid column of water on the top of the rock, twenty feet, or as deep as an ordinary welL ai|ii u[^i)b. This is a small island just above the Hoi'se Shoe Fall. It has never been approached by man, and perhaps never will while Niagara rolls, unless a sus- pension bridge, or some other means are devised. It took its name from the quantity of gulls that, late in the fall and early in the spring, light upon it, and some think hatch their young there; at ail events they are not dis' j-bed, and are "Monarchs of all they survey, • Their rights there are none to dispute." The visitor, after spending what time he Tvnshes on Prospect Tower, will return to the bank. If he wishes to reach his hotel by the nearest route, with- out going round by the head of the island, take a small path dinocUy back of the building fronting Prospect Tower. This is a pleasant walk leading to m i THRES SISTBRS. 21 the bridge, and shortens the distance more than one-half. But we will suppose he wishes to continue his rambles around Goat Island, as there are many objects to excite, and will peculiarly interest him. The best point to get a correct view of the shapo of the Horse Shoe Fall, is about forty rods up tie river, from the point where you ascend the bank from the tower, near A small stone monimient, di- rectly in his path, marked with a cross on the top, set by the^surveyors to ascertain if tlio Falls recede. Let him step to the bank, and he will get one of the best views of the shape of the Horse Shoe there is, on either side of the river. As the visitor passes np the river, he will notice piers filled with stone near the water's edge. These were made by the proprietor of the island, to pre- vent the bank from washing. The next thing he notices is three small islands near the shore. These are c^-led A man by the name of A. P. Allen, some eight years since, in attempting to cross the river in a skif^ from Chippewa, unfortunately broke one of his oars; but with a skill and coolness never surpassed, he managed to reach the outer island, jumped ashore, while his skiff darted on like an arrow over the Falls. Though saved from immediate death, yet his situation was perilous in the extreme, the hope 22 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. m 1 1 of rescue was extremely doubtful and starvation was staring him in tlie face. Two niglita and one day he remained upon this lonely spot. lie struck a fire, the smoke wreathed in columns ahove the ti-ee-tops. Great numbei-s of our citizens assembled, and heard his cries for help. At length a rope was thrown across from one island to the other, and by means of a skifi^, the same intrepid Robinson that rescued Chapin, succeeded in bringing him safe to shore. Both ai'e Hving in our village at this time. £^{l)ii]g ^liice of I\':(m$ Ji^bof, ll^e Jfei'hilf. The bathing place of Francis Abbot is on the west side of Goat Island, the flret perpendicular cas- cade after leaving Prospect Tower, near the three islands called the Three Sisters. He was learned, gentlemanly and accomplished, pleasing in address, but could not be approached by a stranger; he lived nearly twenty months entirely alone. He was drowned below the ferry, in the year 1831. His body was found at Foil Niagara, fourteen miles below, recognized, brought back and sleeps in our burpng ground. This lonely spot was resorted to by this singular indi>ddual generally at night The thunder's tenific sound, the liglitiiing's blaze mingled with the roar of the catai'act, was the element in which he delighted to breathe. Very Uttle is known of his history. HEAD OF GOAT ISLAND. 23 Jfe^d of fio^f Isiqn^. ..'.^ . At this point, Navy Island, near the Canada shore o the right, containing three hundred and forty acres, the scene of the McKenzie war in 1837-38, is in plain sight It was occupie by three or four hundred Ameiicans — a heterogeneous mass of all classes, without discipline, or any efficient means to carry on war. Chippewa, on the Canada shore but a short distance below, contained at the time four or five thousand British soldiers. The two governmenta took no active part in this hot-headed enterprise, and it fell by its own weight. Grand Island is to the left on the American side, resembling the main shore, containing seventeen thousand two hundred and forty acres, purchased by M. M. Noah, and ao- cording to his fancied visions it was to be the future home of all the Jews on the globe. The visitor in turning his eye to the right and left, will readily perceive how this island divides the river, the greater portion rolling to the Canada shore. It would, while passing the bridge, be thought in- credible that any person could reach the island before any bridge was built Yet such is the fact; BF> early as 1765, several French officers were con- veyed to it by Indians in canoes, carefully dropping down the river, between the dividing waters whore the river for some httle distance is calm, and Peter B. Porter of Black Pock, with jcme other gentlemen, tfi I 24 IVXRT Mlir BIS OWN QUIDI. also made a trip to the island in a boat. Thej found but little trouble in descending, but their return was difficult and hazardous.* It was eflfected by shoving the boat with setting pules up the most shallow part of the cun-ent for a half a mile, before making for the shore. Falling into the current, within a mile of the Falls, must b« fatal. Several accidents of this kind have happened, but all, as far as the author can recollect, were hurried on to destruction. It is but a few years since an Indian, partially in- toxicated, on attempting to cross the river in a canoe, was drawn into the rapids. Finding all efforts to reach the shore unavailing, he took a good horn of whiskey, lay down in his canoe, passed rapidly over the Falls, plunged into the yawning vortex below and disappeared forever. At this point, the head of Goat Island where we are now standing, it can be more satisfactorily explained, why it was called Goat Island. A man by the name of Sted- man, about seventy years since, put some goats upon the island, which remained there nearly two jeai% He reaehed the island and returned the same way iB the Indians and others had done. the old clearing you notice at the left, some part of it is an Indian burying ground, but of the tribe to f * Trees marked 1765 and 1769, were within a few TSUI fti^ clearly to be seen. THE FIRST PUOPRTETOR O* JTTAOARA FALLS. 26 >7 ir g a S i, e wlioni it Ivilonfred, Tiothinor defiuite is laiown. It il FU]-)|)()se(l by some thoy wore the Iroquois. The fol* lowiiii^ lilies were composed by a young hidy from Boston, while seated under the shade of a cedar, '^ tlie lu:'ad of Goat Island, looking over the graves of the wai'iiors, the niigh(y dead, who sluud^er in si leuce here. Indian bones have been exhumed withiw a few years. The white man lias driven the Int'vari away, Far from Ni;'.c;ara'8 shore; N« move is he jiormittod to stay And hear thd loud Cataract roar. The -^'.ir-vhoop *h\i who'd o'er Kiagara'a idles IXc'w? Iong.suu?e(lie I liway ; Fnr in Oit'vitb (.li.«*tinotno.s.4. At all evonta, tho Lunar Bow ia poculiur to tbw place. Dielu of i()e Iqlls qf IfifjM. An evening view liius a very dillorcnt ellbct upon , tho mind of tho behulJer, than wlion seen in tho daytime. The nioon-beanis pl-'iyiiig upon the agi- tated uators; tlie s]iray, hi^e tlie 'uoko of a volcano, rising into tlie sky; the ontlless roar of the cataract, mingled with the heart's deepest impressions, give such an indescribable sublimity and grandeur, that hmgunge is but a poor vehicle to convey tho inipres- Bions we feel. h)U\i3 of fl|C Ifllls I|f §l(l()lMSC. This view is thought, by thousands, to be per- fectly uiLSurpassed ; and has no rival in grandeur, sublimity, and interest. Every point of time, how- ever, is different, and has its different etiiact upon the beholder. 3)uli) of fl}e lulls fif §i(i>sef. "When tho sun has rolled onward in his chariot of fire, and thrown his last rays upon ^Niagara, bid- ding adieu, for tho night, to tho gr.'inJeur of the scene that so much in power resembles himself, tho view is perfectly indescribable. I '. '.' ■• I: IP vn so XySR7 MAH mo OWN GUIDK. i t P!1 ! i; ^o?(lr of ibe f ^ll3. This depends mucli upon the wind, and the state of the atmosphere. Sometimes, every door and window, the least ajar, for a mile in circumference, will tremble — caused by the concussion of the air; and the 'oar may be heard from fifteen to twenty-five miles. At other times our citizens would scarcely know that there were falls in the neighborhoosf lio&l'e^glorjs of gil-qogel*?. At first sight, strangers are sometimes disap- pointed ; either their expectations have been raised too high, or the sublimity, grandeur, and magnifi- cence of the scene far surpasses every thing they could possibly Jiave anticipated. The second view is frequently more impressive than the first. The longer the visitor tarries, the morfc ho* enjoys and appreciates; the impression is indelibly cnstamped upon his memory, and for years infixed thore, as with the imprint of a sun- beam. The Falls, if is true, when seen from above, do not appear more than fifty or sixty feet high; but let. the viiiitor go below, if he would get a correct impression of this stupendous work. Beauty RISK AND FALL OF THE RltK!!. 31 ' grandeur, and awful Sublimity, enstamp upon bia heart, those emotions he never can express. V$6 of ffee l^ibei-. Those causes which swell other rivers, have no eCect upon this. It never ris-^s unless the wind has been blowing down Lake Erie in a westerly direc- tion. S. Ware, Esq., who has kept the ferry for seventeen years, says, " one foot on tha top of the Falls, will, by actual measurement, raise it seventeen and a half feet below." This is attributable to the river being pent up in a very narrow pass at the Whirlpool, and cannot find its way out as fast as it accumulates above. I^ll of flie ^IbeK From Lake Lrie to Lake Ontario, (36 miles,) 339 feet; from Lake Erie to the head of Goat Island, (22 milea,i 25 feet; from the head of Goat Island 60 the main fall, (half a mile,) 50 feet; perpendicu- lar heigl '. of the American Fall, 164 feet; on the Canada side, 158 feet; from the Falls to the Whirl- pool, (2^ miles,) 64 feet; from the Whirlpool lo Lake Ontario, (11 miles,) 25 feet. Total in 36 miles between the two lakes, 339 feeK I f f m 82 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. ti^obiiblilfij of f o(d13 A']^ I'^^) 3^^^ obc'c ii]e, f ^li3 In some instances tliey do — but generally are in a "wounded, mutilated state. On tlie morning of the lOtli September, 1841, more thai four hundred ducks were picked up, dead, having gone over the night previous. If fish should take a perpentjcular direction, they might survive. But if they should strike flatwise, it would, in our opinion, kill them as sud.^f^nl -is if they fell on a rock. The usual crossing place is 2 1-2 miles above the Falls; though sail-boats and canoes, when the wind is blowing up the river, have crossed much nearer. It is thought by many, who have visited the Falls at this season, that it far surpasses that of summer. The icicles, in the shape of inverted cones, hanging from the high banks, the dazzling splendor of an effulgent sun darting his fiery beams upon them ; the frozen spray, clothing the trees in its silvery robe; the roar of the ice, as it rushes on- ward to try the fearful leap ; the ceaseless thunder THE FIRST MAN WHO RAW THE PALLS. 33 of the cataract, the bow of promise, smiHng se- renely upon the angry flood; tlie enchained river within its icy embrace, struggling like some mon- Bter of the deep to be free, all combine to render the scene awfully grand and terrific. No language is adequate to give a correct impression; it must be Been before it can be appreciated. The first white man who saw the Falls, as far aa we have any authentic record, was Father Henne- pin, Jesuit missionary, sent out from the French among the Indians, as early as the year 1678, 174 years since. His descriptions were visionary, and ex- ceedingly exaggerated. He thought the Falls six or seven hundred feet high, and that four persons could walk abreast under the sheet of water, without any other inconvenience than a slight sprinkling from the spray > But we would not attribute this wild and fanciful description, to a want of candor, or an in- tention to deceive. The fact probably was, he had no means of measuring its height, and undoubt- edly got his account ffom the Indians, which very *ikely would be incorrect The Indians, it is saii in Judge De Yeaux's works, iiave a tradition that two human beings, yearly, will f IH ^\l a H IVERT MAN HIS OWN GUIDB. m he sacrificed to the Great Spirit of these \.^wc»a. Whether any reliance can be placed upon the tra- dition of the Indians or not, it is nevertheless t.rue^ that almost every year has proved fatal to some one. A few instances, only, c&n be mentioned. John York, who is supposed to have gone over the Falls, as pieces of his boat, and part of the loading were picked up below, 28th Nov. 1841. William Ken- tedy was in the boat with him, and found dead on i. . ^' Island, just above the Rapids. Dr. Hungerford, of West Troy, was killed by a rock falling upon him, between Biddle Stairs and the Cave of the Winds. May 27, 1839. J. H. Thompson, of Philadelphia, was washed oflf of a rock below the Falls, under the great sheet of water, by leaving the guide and venturing too far upon places of danger. August 16, 1844. Miss Martha K. Rugg, from Lancaster, near Boe- wn, Mass., while picking a flower, fell over the bank, just below Bamett's Museum, (Canada side,) one hundred and fifteen feet. August 23, 1844. She lived about three hours. Charles Smart, from Philadelphia, fell about forty feet from a rock in the Cave of the Winds. Aug. 31, 1846. Killed instantly. John Murphy, aged fourteen years, son of « I eAflUALTIlSk 85 vKaUW ladj, of our villiige, attempting to croas the river in a canoe, about a mile above the Falls, was drawn into the current and went over. His body has never been found. June 13, 1847. A son of Mr. White, aged five years, and his sis- ter about one year and a half older, were playing in a canoe; it floated out into the stream; the ag- onized mother beheld this heart-rending scene — she rushed into the river nearly up to her neck -^ rescued the girl, the boy went over. He was last seen sitting in the bottom of the canoe, holding on to each side with his hands. July 9, 1848. His body has never been found. A gentleman from Buffalo, supposed to be on an excursion of shooting ducks; his boat was drawh into tlie rapids above the Grist Mill — seen by sev- eral of our citizens to pass under the Bridge-— heard to exclaim, ^ can I be saved. His boat, with the velocity of lightning, passed on, dashed against a rock nearly opposite the Chair Factory, he was thrown out — went over feet foremost, near the American shore. August 25, 1848. He has neror been found. A Mrs. Miller cat her shawl in pieces^ tied them together, hung it over the Bridge leading to Qoat Island, intending doubtless to impress the belief that she had let herself down into the angry flood, and had gono over the Falls. Very few of our citizen !» h II •'■i:i Wl 3d EVERY MAN UIS OWN OUIDE. 1} ' m ■ ■i , It • believed it, as there was too muoli pains taken, for the purpose of committing suicide ; it was all a farce, as she was heard from at Syracuse and other places, a few davs after. Some love affair occasioned this wild freak. Her little children were very kindly taken care of by Hon. A. Porter, until lier friends at Detroit could be informed of the occurrence, and they removed to their home. Her father, a very respectable lawyer, died soon afterward, it waa thouo-ht of a broken heart. A gentleman from Troy, X. Y., in the winter of 1852, while passing over the Bridge to the Tower, fell into the river, was instantlv carried to the verfje of ^he precipice, and lodged between two rocks. Mr. Bruster I . Davis rescued him, by throwing some lines in the direction; he had just sufficient strength left to tie them around his body, and they drew him to the Bridge, whence he waa taken to the Falls Hotel. He remained speechless for several horn's, but finally recovered and returned to his home. There are not as many accidents in proportion U the number who visit the Falls, as among our citi zens. Strangers are generally more careful and timid, cautious how they approach places of appa- rent or real danger, until satisfied of theur perfect safety. Some have a more fool-hardy adventure in ACCIDENTS TO STIlANGERS. 87 9 Jieir constitutions; "will p.^s into crags and rocLs, ^•here hiinian bcinfj.s never ought to go. Tiiis is not only dangerous, but it is perfectly uncnlled for, as all the -wlldness of tins terrific scene cm bo viewed without running the least risk. It Inis frequently been remarlied to the author both by ladie^s and gontlonien, v»hile standing upon Rome gid'ly point, say an isol.-ited rock, on tlie west side of rro?[>ect To\ve!-, on the very brink of the Falls, "I have a great rr.ind," say thoy, "to give a jump; d») you thiii\' it v/ould hurt me." The rea- son of t!i:.< disposition doubtless is, they are not accustomed to stand u;u)nsuch afriglilful eminence. There is, unqiiestivuaMy, a determinatiuu of blood to the brail;, vrhieli pro'luws a partial derangement. Some arc of thrit nervous temperament, constitu- tionally formcvl, that they become dizzy in looking dovrn from abnost any height, thougli at other times thoy iniglit face the cannon's mouth, and hear it thunder, without moving a muscle, yet here they are afraid. These remarks are not made to alarm, or in the least to detract from the interest of the slrano-er'.i visit, but to caution. The author, until recently, for many ye^irs acted as a Guide; ho will relate an inci- dent, as exem])lilying iho above remarks: a young lady was standing upon Table Hock, on the very verge of th(i precipice, the viiud at the time blowing F J i'4 1151 "* ' 'I IT KVKUY MAM lUS OWN GUIDE. )■; M strong from llie Canail.'i slioro; slio appcaiJed amazoil, bcwiklercd, and lust amid tliis overwlielm- ing, enchanting sceno. Madam, said I, arc you not unuecess^irlly ox]>osing youisclf ? AVliilo laying my Land slightly u])on hor shoulder, Oh ! she replied VAith a sniilo, I could juniji ofi' here, and sail away like a balloon, v.itlioul inji'.ry; and with much en- treaty, she was ])revailed upon at length to leave this dangerous spot. 'ihe observed afterward to Ler mother, who very pleasantly reprimanded her for this daring freak, I did not feel the least fear, or dread, and was not aware that I was in any dan- ger; " I thought I could fiv." In many other in- Btances, I have observed in some strangers the sanw disposition; regardless of fear or danger, or the ad- rice of friends they often feel disposed, they say, to try the fearful le;i]>; we know these are facts, and leave tlie subject for writers on mental philosophy to enlarge upon, and assign the cause. Thousands, in the summer season, when the t^realher is fair, promenade through the Island a night — It is a delightsome treat. The carriage-road is iSne, the dark forest, in all its native grandeur, ia around them, not a breath moves the surrounding fohage, the moon pouring a flood of mellow light tibough the openingii of tho trees, the Rileuce of LUN'Au row. 80 death ia only iutuiruiited by Niagar.i's ceaseless roar, riilin<^ the mind with oniolioas of awe, grand- eur, and sublimity, ^vhich it is perfecUy impof^dibla to describe. It must bo viewed befuie it can bo appreciated. Can only bo seen about once a month, or when tlic moon is within two or three days previous or after its full. Tlie re;iaon is, there is not light enough to iorm tho Dow. The best points to view tliis grand spectacle are, at the foot of Goat Lslanl, on Luna Island, and Prospect Tower. If tho slxy ia clear, tho wiird right, and the atmosphere favorable, an entire arch c;m bo seen. The author has fro- qucntly seen a wdiole arch, with three C(_>l')rs very distinct, and wo are inclined to beliovo, as far as wo can learn from travelers, this is tho only place vn tlio iilobo, where a rainbow at niicht, in the Honn of an arch, can bo seen at alJ. It is indescribably gfraud, worthy tho attention of the tourist, and will amply pay liim for a trip to tlio Island, to behold. " Thdu hast told mo right," said a party of Qua- kers, from Philadelphiji, to tho author, " this sight alone, is suhicient to pay us for a journey to the Falls." The mind takes a wild and sublimo range, but [{£, emotions cannot be 05i)res£>od« i; In I !;:,/ ,.\i hij ^jqij of i(): Ijitij. If t]i'j visitor is jit llio Cataract House, tako the fiivt left Land street, thoi' turn to tlio right at the old Curiosity Shop. If .".t tlio Falls Hotel, pass the Ihif- f'h and Is iai;-;ira Falls railroad de])ot, iiicliuo to the r!':::ht. It' at the St. Lawrence Hotel or the Nian^ara House, pa'i.s up Aln'ri street, pa.-s the depot a.s above, iuil three or l'v,)ur iniiuil.es wtdk Lrlnirs you throuirh a ple^asaiit grove to the Ferry. J c i* I' [I -- 3 i'o c if* I c f] i) f-i i D c . TliG Ferry Iloure in ^vithin ciL:;ht rods of tho American Fall. Cara lead down tho l;ank to the ^vater's cdg'^, on an inclined plane of thirty-one de- grees, ">,vorked by water-power. Distance, tweiity- two an^l a Iialf rods, or two liundred and ninety rf^}ps. Tlio usual time in descending and crossing tho river to the Cana.da shore, is about ten minutea "This Ferry," says Judge Porter, the proprietor, "has been in operation more than forty year;; >i,A durinn; all that time not a ;;in(;'le life has b^^im Icr-l or a serious ac-cident occurred" And this, perhaps, h vootq than can be said of FEKUY — AMEKICAN SIDE. 41 any olhor ferry in tlio United St'itcs, Tlio boats vliicli jily back and forth almost every iiioniont in Uio day, wLon soon from tho liigb bank, apiiear, jw tliey danco upon tbo agitated ^vavos, exceedingly diuiimitivc and insecure; yet tiicy ^vill f^afcly carry Lliirty i)Ci'sons. At the foot of tho sUiirs, or "vvliero tho cars stop, if there is httlo or no ^vind, or if it is blowing 'up tho river, let Iiim turn short round to the left IIo can approach ^^ithin a ^k^w fe(.'t of tho American Fall, ■svithout iuconvcnienco from tho FI)ray. It is, in tho opinion of tho Avriter, one of the most gr.'uid and sublime ^•^e^v8 on the American fiide. At no other j)oint do Ave got as correct an impression as to the height of the American Fall The reason is, we ai'o below, nearer the falling sheet, and are looking up. This remark holds good every- where; if we would get a correct idea of heighl-s, we must be below and look u]). — (Questions by the visitor while crossinix tho river: How hi;"-!! is tlio American Fall? A. One lumdrcd and sixtv-four feet, perpendicular. Q. Do thoy ^o under that fall ? A. Never; an attempt was made a few years since, but it was abandoned as a Ijoj)eless cfl'vjrt. Q. How deep is the river? A. In tho center it averages two hundred fifty feet, fjr a ?,nile up and a^^wn. Q. What is tho cause of this dark, green color! A. This h:us never been satisfactorily expkiii^ed; some think it is in the foliage, but this must be a P. ■!IH^ 42 EVERT MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. U"' mij>t-iko; llio snnio nppocnranco is seen in tlio winter as well as in the sinniner. Tlio most jirubuldo rear- aon npjH'.'irs to tlio "writer to bo its tlopth, A\*o would willingly cxcliannro this o|»ini(>n f(,)r a Letter, whenever it can bo ukuIo to .'i]ij)tar it is erroneoiist Charges for cro'ssiiig tho ferry, including tlio Gal's, Is cigbtecn (UkI three-* j[U.irtcrs eenLs. Ilcro tlio visitor will bo annoyed by all that coni<&- leas jargon of runners and solicitors, so usual in iill tho great thoroughf:uvs of this country. There is a good carriage-road up tho bank, and if tho visltoi feels disposed, he can walk at his leisure, and thus have moro timo to contemplate an])reciato this wondei-ful r^oeno. If ho jirefeif? riding, ho can get a good carriage, witii careful diivers, to take liiin to Tablo Rock, generally for twelve and a half cciit.'t It would bo advisable to mako a bargain before y»ya st.ii-f, as tho drivers will sometimes tell you they will cnrry you for a shilling, meaning Canada cuiTcncy. One shiliinin^' propilcior iias rf;ecntly Lfcn laid ouL in UiKlilioiu U) tlio balMiiig, |)l<':kiuie« ganleii, and rosid-'iicos for i>iivato f;imili(\s. Jt i:or- tiii'.lv is un cxcH'Ilout lueation, comniaii«Iiii<' a \IcW of tlio Atnoricjui and ili)r.iC5 Slioj JAuJ. K'l'^hiy i\»ds below, on tli'j o>l<^o of tlio kwik, is VicUiri* Point. Dirorlly opposite the Clifton Houhc, the othor sido of the street, i.s Mr. lloUoway's, oui* of the must cuilehrated arti.sta in thid coiiuLry. lie spends his tinio ip. p.-iiiitinj^ views of tlio FalU 'jeverid fiinall shopi'i on tlie road-side where Iiidian work and refrCiJiuientd arc sold. Mi' m X[)i Tilnseiii.} Is near Talile ilock. The galleries are arranpjed 80 as to represent an entire forest scene, aii^l eon- tain upward of ti'n thousand intore.sting specimens. Birds, Amimals, Fish, Minerals, &c^ a fjreat vari- ety of which were collected in the inuuediate vicin- ity. Chartjiie for admittance, is 25 centa. 'J'liia includes the Camera Ohseura, Buflalocs, S:c. About twenty rods below the Museum, is the point where Miss Martha K. Kui;:; fell over the bank, one hun- dred anJ fifty feet perpendicular. (See Casualties.) The next grand, and all absorbing point of interest, »s Table block. r% m m m 1-1 'li 44 EVERT M-\N mS OWN GUIDE. :i i Is on the Canada si Jo, connected vritU tlie great Horso Shoe Falls, and tlie terminus of tlio carriago- j'oad in this direction. It was formerly aLout fiftoea rods long, and tlireo wide, and projects over tlie precipicG from fifiy to sixty feet. Thousands of the mobt timid have stood upon this giddy emi- nence with perfect safety, and gazed upon the ro Bpleudent grandeur of this enchanting, liewilderiu^ scene. While contemplating it, tho mind is lost and sinks back upon itself, amid the immensity of God's works. And wo hazard not too much in say ing, there is nothing on the globe that compares with this vie'./, in point of sublimity and interest *' I have," said a sea captain to the writer, who had followed the ocean for forty years, " seen tho Mael- strom, the Burning Mountains, and all tho wonders of tho globe, but this is tho most sublimely inter- esting of all." Two la? go portions of Table Rock Lave fallen within a few years, but have detracted but little from this grand view. Directly ia rear, is the Prospecu House, on tho top of which is a Camera Obscura, and a splendid view of tho Horso Shoe, and the Rapids. The charge for seeing tha Camera, is 12 1-2 cents. w The emotions excited while passing under the COURAGB OF LADIES. 4ft If aat slieet, are exceodiiigly varlabl«. IL is atkiW- u jible, perhaps, to our state of LerJtli, pliysieal cour- Bi^e, or nervous temperament. Some ha\ e a ^ood deal of adventure in their constitutions — bekl, fear- less and determined : as the interest of the scene increases, difficulties vanish. Otliers are ixiore timid and fearful, but equally resolute. And as far as the writer caL judge from the countenances and ex- pressions of those who have accompanied him, the feelings that involuntarily arise, are those of relig- ious awe. We may have been schooled in infidelit}^, and tauoflit to believe there is no God; but durinnr our stay at the Falk, and especially under Jheni, lot the individual bo «n Atheist, if ho can. (Im- possible.) On returning, about fifty feet from tli© bottom of the stairs, lot the visitor pause fur a mo- ment, and look up. " I did not," said a lady to the author, in company with her husband, from South Carolina, " fe**! the least agitated while under the falling flood ; but at this point I trembled ; not from any real or apparent danger; but my nerves, for a moment, seemed to give way." She soon regainel her composure. " That Bcenc," continued she, " is worth a journey across the globe." £jO\\\-^2t> of Jj|Oi?«. "Do ladies ever go under the "^alls? " is a quee- tiou frequently proposed. Certainly, thousands — o 46 EVERT MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. k VI :. 1' I- A:, , y N1i a 1| 4- and tlicir numbers are nearly equal to those of tLe gentlemen, and their courage often surpasses them No accident has ever occurred, unless from careless- ness, or the iincallod-for adventure of some thought- less traveler, in rushing out upon places where hu- man beings never ought to go. There is an iron driven into the side of the rock, at the termination of the path. Visitors usually lay tlieir hands upon this iron. At this point you can see all that can be seen, with perfect safety. Two or three feet beyond this, your path is intercepted by a perpendicular rock, which rises twenty or twenty-five feet from the ajigry flood l)elow. This is called " Termination Kock." As much as to say, " you can approach me, with safety; but, beyond, you cannot go — here let thy proud steps be stayed." Some clamber down this rock to tlie water's edge ; but this is un- called-for, as all the wildness of tliis magnificent place is seen without running the least risk. If the visitor has time, and feels disposed, the next object of interest is the Burning Sprino- — a ood carriage-road, and a delightful ride. This Spring is situated two miles above the Falls, on the Canada side, near the water's edce. It is the carbonated sulphuretted liydrogen gqs, thut burns. Touched with a match it gives out a b: illiant i| ail. I «i|iii.«Dim o h u la o 1^ M pq o ft 1^ W o W N O li^^! k 'M "tit li m I I — ■iiitiiy » III! ini«ww!ip»^ip«^ip»"""^»>-" PM I f ■;t i^l ' ■'*, %--i CHIPPEWA — LUNDY S LANE. 47 flame rising two or three feet higl). Many are very much interested, and to those who have never seeu any thing of the kind, it is an object of a good deal of interest. Charges, 12 1-2 cents. The villajvc of Chippewa is on the British side, two and a half miles above the Falls. A few sol- diers* have been stationed here since the Patriot War of '37 — '38. Landing of the British steamer Emerald, from Buffalo, N. Y. The terminus of the railroad from Queenston, connected with the British and American steamers for Toronto, Kings- ton, Montreal, and Quebf A steamer plies daily from Chipi^ewa to Butl'alo. Lundy's Lane, is a mile and a quarter from the Falls, on the Canada side. The battle, in its hot- test fury, was fought priiicipally in the night, with the bayonet; Gen. Peter B. Porter commanding the volunteers — Generals Brown and Scott wounded, Ryal and Drummond, (British generals,) wounded and taken prisoners. This, it is said, was the se- verest battle ever fought on this continent. British had, in killed and wounded, 877. Americans, 860. •;« peared from sight. The noise produced by thia fallen rock, was somediing like the rumbling of an earthquake. It was heard four or five miles on each side of the river. There was some fifteeji minutes pause, the earth was aginn in motion, and then another crash. The ponderous load rolled with the velocity of lightning, and sunk ftxr down into the deep below. Fortunately, no lives were lost, though some forty or fifty persons were stand- ing upon the rock but a few moments before. A I W T 60 EVERT MAN III3 OWN GUIDB. J I m -i; f' it Ml Dlind man, ^vllo sells views of difTereut cities and the Falls, felt tlio rock begin to move, and succeeded in reacliing a place of safet'., just in time to escajx) tliis lieadlono^ phuigo. An omnibus Avas placed upon tliG rock for tha pmposo of washing it — two persons were inside — they jumped for life, and were saved. The horses were taken off to feed. It went over, and n(;t a fragment was ever seen. A gentleman and lady were below; several tons fell in the path, directly before them; tlioy lia.stenod to the top of the bank, and the whole wunt oil" at ouco. In 1818, a por- tion of Table Hock fell In 182S, u large mass fell from the center of the Horse Shoe Fall.^. Another mass fell, connected with Table Rock, and extend- ing under the sheet of water toward the point of the Horse Shoe, about 150 feet long, 50 wide, and 100 deep, carrying with it a canal boat, that had lam on the verge of the Horse Shoe, for months. Thus nature, not satisfied with wliut she had done, moved on, silently but trium])haDtiy, (o destroy her O'siTi works. But the natural cause, the modus opo- randl of these rocks falling, is the shale and marl below. These, by the action of the spray, frost, and the atmosphere, wear fostest at the bottom; and ■when they project sufficiently far to throw them be- yond the perpendicular lino of descent, they crack .mid fiill of their own weight. Hundreds of ittstances w J A FISSURE IN TAHLE ROCK. 61 ItO about lIiG Falls, strikingfly cxomi^lify tlicso reniarlcs. There is one on tlio American Fall, near tlie shore. Another is seen from Luna Island, extendin':^ in a fissure toward the center of the American Fall; and a third is noticed a few rods from tho Tower toward the center of Horse Shoo. This commences near the Stairs, leading back from the edge about three or four rods, and varying in width from three to fifteen inches. It is about iTo feet long, and 80 deep, and is seen and pointed out bv almost every traveler who visited Tablo Rock. That portion which remains }>oises, a[»[)a- rently, upon a mere point, and is as destined to fall, as these waters are to roll, and it may go before night; but how long it will last, no mortal, this side of the other world, can tell. The citizens on that side have often threatened to put a blast into this ci'evice, and blow the whole off together, wliicli might easily be done. The visitor will be urgently importuned to go under the sheet of water by run ners who are eniplo} ed for the purpose, and if he wishes to do so he v»ill judge of its safety, for hint- self, after taking the above facia into consideration. Dresses and a guide will be furnished at either of the Houses, at an expense generally of 50 cents. There are not tw manj who go under the sjieet of V |i •^S t< It! 1 t' 1 i 1 i i 62 It VERY MAN ni9 OWN Gl'IDE. water since, as before the rock fell. My own opin- ion is, it is not safe. Formerly, wlior. tlio writer acted as a ijuiile, lie liad aceoin[»ani(jr a moment, not al'irmc d. l)y Niagara's roar, but as if detoiTnined not to bo encircled v'thin its cold embrace, or bo h'^'it^'u hv its mighty and terrific povrer. The war of tlu? ele- ments continues for an instant — tho Caroline liaa DOUNDAUr LINK. W disrippc.irci], leaving "not a wrcclc bcliIn(];"anJ Ni- nc^.im is victor, procLiiiiiiiig to tlio vorld thiit its jxAVor i.s not lessened l»y tlio stiifo of men, or any cu'wiii] ilo.'itiiic^ suLstniico ii['on its bosom. Vory few, Lowever, beheld this fijnuid speetnelc, na it v/as in tlio ii'i^'ht, and motjt of tiio iiihabit;iutii had retired from tile frontiers. It U liot our purposo, at this time, to enter into the ininu[i;c of this aO'alr; sullico it, the boat w:ls charged by tho liritisli Avith aiillng the refugees by cairyitig jtrovisions and anna to Navy Lslan'l, which doubtless was true. Tliis specification w;usbr. night before tho court by tho Ihitish con?ul rX tJio trial of MeLerjd for the iinirder of a gt'ntleman from Buiialo who was shot on boai'd tho Ciu'olino. It will be rccolleeted MeLeod was a<^]niiteiL The fragments of the boat that lotlged on (»ull T.-land remained tliero initil tho next s[iring. V»'luit wjLi left of her afler passing llio rapids, went over tlio point of tho TIoi-so Shoo lall. No pei'son, v/o bclifive, -wius on bo.u-d. I^eeember 29, 1831/'. As agreed upon by the Comnn'ssion(>rs, (fton. P. ' Vi. Porter was onn, on lu-lialf of the U. S. govcrn- '^UiGut,) is in tho center of tho river, or (leepe.st elian- helj pas.sing through tho point of tho Horso Shoo, thVorjh tlie center of Lal.o Erie, Lako Superior, and }^ ^n to the northovn boundiu-ies of the UnitL-J Btatcs. t. 56 ET^KT MAN HIS OWN GUIDB. ili u I ■, t'' ' ■ 'if lliis boat was attached to a rale of sjuv-Iogs, and used for cookinor and as a lodffinij-rooni for tlie liands ; but wbile attempting to tow this nift up the river from Chippewa, for the purpose of landing it on tlie American siilo, the rope broke, and the logs went over ; but the boat was carried, by the force of the current, on to a rock, the lower side nearly out of water. It remained so\eial months, but when the last poilion of Table Rock fell, it went over. loH §cl)i0S3Cl' la two and a half miles from the Falls, on the American side. It is memorable for its antiquity, and associations of the British and French, each holding Iternately the possession as early as 1775. Scarcely a vastige of the ruins marks the place "where it once stood. It is not visited by travelers, IpSUi) OffeHpg fo f()e Ij^IIs. In the month of August, 1851, the writer accom- panied a party of Indians from the northwest wilds of Minesota, (on their way to Washington,) to the foot of the American Falls. The wind was favor- able, and we approached within a few feet of tha falling sheet They gazed in rapt wonder on the mighty flood, as it rolled its angry waters, r^d fall upon the resounding rock* below For a loug time, INDIAN OFFERING TO THE FALLS. 57 V'.ivy si nscle of tlnMr countenances imlicitcd a Wiiglovs awo, and tlicir tiiouLdits a}'p(are(l to bo communing with r-ome superior power. At asign;d from tlioir cliief, tlioy drew a fsmall rod ]>!po from tlieir o'irdio, and 'willi a o;reat deal of solomn ir-^stur- ing, each tln-cw his ]iipo und^'r tlio Falls. This, I was told hy the interpreter, wa> a religious offcj'ing to the Great Spirit, that he would be pro}iitious to them, on their journey, and return thorn in safety to their homes. Was this superstition, or was it true devoti(^n ? "We thon conduct(^d tliem to tho Tower, on the west side of (xoid Island. Tliey were induced, by some ladies and gentlemen present, to give their views of what they saw. They did so, in the followinrj words, ?is far i\s their lan^ruaire could be interprete 1. "Brothers," said tho chief, "we live in tlie woods, far toward the setting sun. Our Fathers once owned these lands, and this river; they have told us of tliese Falh, but now we see them. Brothel's, you are great, but you cannot stop this water; you cannot put your hand on its mouth and make it still. Yonder," pointing to tho clouds, "is the gre^at Spirit; he male these, and this is liisAvork; and yonder," pointing to tho rainbow, (which at the time shono most brilliantly,) "we see his face — we see him smile. We shall tell our cliildren what wo have seen. Brothers, our beaiti are glad, that we 1 f ¥^ 68 EVEIir MAN HIS own GUIDE. I 1 is. ■ Ui Hi ti ' turned a&ido from our patli, to see tLIs great wonder BroiLers, we tLank the uliitcs for our good treat ment." The cniotions of Hod Jacket, the cele- brated Indiiui Chief, wliilo ^•i.siting tlio Falls some ycai"s tdnco, wero of a very different character. llf> admii'ed tlio grandeur vi nature's work, but not witli that religious awo and devotional feeling, ty did tliosG wild untutored sons of the forest, men tioned above. Envy and jealousy rankled in his' bosom against tho white man, the destroyer of hi^ nice. Ho saw, at a glance, the su]>eriority of the wliitos over the red man of the woods, and ho haled |jim for that ho Lad not tho power to become his equal. Is a few rods to tho riMit of the Ferrv IIouso, on tho American side. This w:is the hust residence of Francis Abbot, tho Hermit of Niajxara. On this spot, a Pa.goda w^^s raised, which placed the specliv tor at an elevation of more than one hundred feet above the cataract, and two hundred and seventy feet above tlie river; but it ^\i^s taken down about two years since. Nevertholess, the view from this point is grand and imposing. 'J'liG American and Ho)"se Shoe; Goat Island with its stately oaks and dark waving forest; the opposite iron-bound shore; the river below, with the FeiTV Boats, dancing like* STA .-TZAS. 69 ttiings of life apon tho agitated waters; all rendei it « place of much attractiveness. Aildrpsscil to tho sojourners at Niagara I-'alls, on commencing tbe building of tho Pagoili, Auyfust 11, IbKJ. Thoso who Iiavc rambled o\'or tlio wild domain, And still doftiio to view it once a^ain. Enter tho fi;nrdon where an Abbott dwelt. And roam whore he, enraptured, c;a7ed and hnclt Si'ili even \rt those plaintive strains I hear, Ti'Iuch once he wakened — and the pensive tear Steals softlj o'er my cheelc, while tho full heart Essays to know what sorrow wlng;cd the dart "WHiich r-e»it liim forth a wanderer from his home, 'Mid tiiesu majestic scenes in silent grief to roam I Say, wanderers 1 wmdd yo dare the wild excess Of joy and wonder words can ne'er express ? Would ye fain steal a glance o'er life's dark sen. And gaze, though trembling, on Eternity ? Would yo look out, look down where Ood liath set Hia mighty signet 1 Come — come liigher yet, And from the unfinished Btmcturo gazo abroad. And wonder at the power of God I To the Pagoda's utmost height ascend, And sec earth, air and sky in one alembic blend I Up — though the trembling limb, and nerveless hand, Strive to detain thee on the solid land ; Up — though the heart may fail, the eye grow dim. Soon will the spirit neiwe the quivering hmh. Up the mde ladder ! gain tho utmost verge — Far, far below, behold the angry sorgo ; . i ' -1' « '•■ ii 60 EVERY" MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. mi ':i-n ! iflP Btfncatli \-onr feet ^ic niiiibow'starch docliues, GIcaniiDg wiih rii'lior yomslliiin Iiidin'.s luiuejs; And dffp witliiii the gulf, yot farther down, '^id uii.st and foam and .spray, bubold Niagara's crown. Addressed to tlie same on coiDiilotini; the cdiricf, October 2.'s ICli *T is finislicd, and llie steps I now ascend, "Wliilo jv.'oud Xiiitrara's waters round nje bond ; Tho' nerves may trcinblc, fears may fear alarm, Yet tlic Pnfjoda stands secure from harm : And, while 1 trembling,' wintl ils Iwfty Jiei^dit, I'stop to rest and rr.pturc tills the sii(lit — The trembling limb gives place to lirmer step, Tile summits gained ! maj:'>tlc nature 's met ! Ob rapttirons trv.ze, yet had I SIiaksp(!aru's }>cn, 1; would not — couid not take the prospect in. Wondrous, sublime, transcending all I -vc seen — There's sonuHliini,' more than languJi^je can explain Thoisc sparkHn':^ torrents froni those dizzy heights, Oildc'l ^^ilh Sun bv dav, and Moon bv nii'-ht : That WiUery mist, that f>»rms the radiant bow. Then fertilizes all tlie land below — That noble livcr, studded thiok with green ; Tliose roaring I\aj>ids ru.shing fiist between — The tranquil Lake above, in foliago rich I view, Following the scene, the Whirlpool rapids too — My eye 's exhausted with the rapturou3 gaze, My heart's expanded giving God the praise. The above remarks of tho poet, except tlioso A 6ABBATII AT NIAGARA. 61 alliifling to tlio Pagoda, arc still applicable to the place. TliE AUTUOIU The followino: fniirmcnt, written in tlio Roo-ister of tlio Point View Gai'don, at Nia'^ara Falls, on Sunday, August 1st, 1847, bj Dr. Baxlev, <;f Bal- timore, illustrates tlie profound impressions produced on the mind and lieait by this i:iost \YonderfuI work of Nature. Here, near tlic temple of Alniiglity God, The soul wrapp'd in luiiuility, bows down In awe, and reverence. 'T is meet tliat man, T)ie cn^iture, bcholdinj* tlie b(tld displays Of pow'r stupendou.s, wisdom inlinite. Should look, tlirougli nature's grandest witness, up To nature'3 God. And deeming here all time A Sabbath, yet on this day appointeAl Holy to Him who rear'd these rocky walls, ButtropsM bi'low by tide-waslied massive piles, Entablatur'd witli beetling baltlemcntf?, And cornic'd with a waving wilderness Of verdure — who outspread yon iizure roof. Now softly mellow M with ethereal tint. Or darken 'd by the tliunder's mu-ssuiiger Gilded anon by lig])tning"sgleams ; or now Radiant witli st.arry liost.s, who^e mirror'd Iwiama Carpet the billowy iloor with silv'ry light — Who raised yon alUir, and i!p')n iLs brow Of emerald, in characL'TS of l:i;ht Insaib'd, e'en witii his o'-'iu vl^'.ii haad, "To God 1 '• ,'-^i 4 mmmm 62 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. % I ^'1; "Where mliiistcrii),!:^ Lirils with notes nttuu'd To an etcniJil iiiithcrn, liyinn His praise, And bear on dewy wings a jicarly cloud Of incense up toward the Alinii^dity's throne, Fit wors^hipers in nature's hohcst fane — Who guards the ported of this sacred place. With ever-heaving sea of snowy foam, Whose tempest voice, to man presumptuous, callfl " Thus, and no farther shalt thou go," and points To ceiiseless wliirling tides, the awful Maelstrom of Niagara, dread emblem of Th' eternal doom of man, v^'n man, who seeks To pass the limit of assigned command, And moral law — E'en on this Sabbath day, Here, near God's own great temple, would we bow In humble praise, and prayer ; and while the lip Rests silent, would the soul its homage give. And favor seek ; petitioning, that in The devious path of life, so may we move, That when these rocks shall melt with fernd heat;, When the rich garniture of teeming earth Shall vanish, leaving no trace of brightness Or of beauty, to tell that it once was ; This restless tide no longer flow, and its Deep cadence cease ; when the blue dome that spani The earth, shall pale away, and radiant spheres No longer shed abroad their hallow'd light ; Then may the hope, that rests upon His word Who ne'er was false to man, who hangs his bow Upon the cloud, and spreads it night and day Upon His altar's incense, token to man Aliko of his redeeming power, and will; TO NIAGARA. 68 Thon may the hope that on His word relies, Nurtur'd by love, and rectitude*, grt)W strong In trust, and prescience of a home " not mado With hands, eternal iu the Heavens!" Al'uust 1, 1847. Jo !(iJi0J^M. WRnTK.V AT TIIK FHtST SIGHT OP ITS FALLS, 1833, BY J. 8. BnCKISOIlAM. Hail I Sovereifjn of the World of Floods I whose majesty and might First dazzles — then enraptures — tlicn o'erawes the aching sight ; The pomp of Kings and Emperors — in every clime and zone, Grows dim beneath the splendor of tliy glorious watery tlirone. No fleets can stop thy progress — no armies bid thee stay — But onward — onward — onward — thy march still holds its way ; The rising mist that vails thee, as thine herald goes before,, And the music that proclaims thee, is the thundering cataract 's roar. Thy diadem is an emerald green, of the clearept, purest hue, Set round with wavciS of snow-white foam, and spray of feathery dew, TVTiile tresses of the brightest pearls float o 'er thy ample slieet, And the rainbow lays its gorgeous gema,in tribute at thy feet Thy reign is of the ancient days — tliy scepter from on high — 1*1 '!4 I ! ^ 1 i i 64 EVKUY MAN HIS OWN OUIDB. Thy birth was wlicn the morning stfirs (ogctlior sruig with joy; TJio Kun — the moon, and all tho orbs tliat sliijio upon thi'e now, Saw the first wreath of glory which twined thino iutuit brow. And from th-^t hour to this — in which I gaze upon thy Btrcam, Frr)m ag3 to a*o — in winter's frost, or Bumrncr's sultry l)cvi m — By day, by night — without a pause — thy waves with loud acclaim, In coaaek'ss sounds, have still proclaimed, tho Groat Etor« nal name. For whether, on thy forest barks, the Indian of the wood, Or, since his days, the red man's foe, on his fathcr-j;irul lias stood — Wlioe'er h;is soon thine incense rise, or heard thy torrent's roar. Must have bent before the God of all, to worship and a lore. Accept tlion, Supremely Great 1 — lufiuile I — God I From tliis primeval altar — the green and virgin sod — TJie humble homage tliat my soul in gratitude would pny To Thee! whose shield has guarded nie thro' ad rny wandering way. For, if the ocean be as naught in the hollow of thy Lan I, And the stars of the bright firmament, in thy baia.'ii;^, grains of Hand, If Niagara's flood seem great — to ns who lowly bow — I Great Creator of the whole I how passing great art Thou I III' CATLIN 8 CAVE. C5 Tet, tho' thy power is greater here Tlii'in finite mind may Bcan, Still greater is thy mercy, Shown to weak dependent man. For him tliou cloth'st tho fertile fields AVith herb^, and fruit, and seed, lor him the wood.-!, tho Jakes supply Ilis hourly need. Around, on lii;^li — or far or near — Tlio universal whole, rrnolaim thy glory, as tho orha In their fixed courses roll. And, from creation's grateful voico, Tliy hymn ascends above, While Ueaven re-echoes back The choiais, God is !ovc Is on tlio Ainorlcan side, uLout sixty rods below the Forry, nnd this is tlio only wnj of goltino; to iL The hnuk is steep and preci])itous, nnd dillieult of access. It is about fifteen feet wide, and ten high. Except as containing a few sp(3ciniens of petrified moss, it is not an object of interest, and is seldom visited bj strange i-s. CHAPTER 111. Hi. w w L J^i 1^0!(fij U Cqi)r|i){), (LiMc ilo:!;,) Oq i[)t f'i(S- TliG time of sUvrtiiig on tliis excursion, fcr visi- tors ^.jiierally, is after brealifu.st. Tliis <^ivos Jinijilc^ tiniG to view Jill the places of interest in Canahi, and return before dinner, and be ready for the after- roon train. Most of visitors, wo think, in tnhing tliis route, prefer getting a carriage on this side, to take them all round, and return when thov p]l^^!■^2. The drivers will say that tliey will take you to Tal'lo Rock for two, three, and sometimes four dt.l'.ars. But the regular \ at the Livery Stable, for a f^ood carriaixe, is one dollar an hour. Others airain prefer ridino* to tlie Suspension Brido-o, and trettlDf; a carriage on that side, to take them to tlie llock or elsewhere. I can only say, if I were going myself with a party, I should g\:t a carriage on this side, for it is sometimes the case you cannot get a good one on the other side of the Bridge. The dilKr- ence in the expense is but trifling, and froqucjitly it costs the visitor mf)re, by d''pendiug on that side for his conveyance. One thing further before we sfart^ the vi.sitor will understand, and that is, whether ho SUSrENSION CniDdE. 07 y{« L() pncjni^rr'.s a carri;i(ro by tlio lionr, or l»y tlio jcb; it (loos not iiu'ludo tlio ti)ll .-it tlio IJiilLjo, iuili'.>s a Kpf'^iiil liriri^iiiii is iiKi'lo to tliut elVeot. Tho tolls .'iro ns follows: at the iidg(^, whon Mr. Elliott, his lady, and many of our citizens, both gentlemen and ladies, crossed over the river in a Basket, on a singlo wire, about an inch in diameter, tv;o hundred and thirty focit above ono of th"o C8 EVERT MAN III9 OWN GUIDE. !M ni.'uMost stroaiiiR on tlio globe. The Basket, with two and somethnea three persons in it, was suspended under the wire, and rundown on an inclined piano, by means of wdieels, very much at such an anL,de as the wires now arc. They would pass from the hi!.i;h towers to the center of the course, and then woul(J bo drawn np by a windl.-iss on the opposite sid^s and so vice versa. The usual time in erossini^ w;n from three to four minutes.* The work, under the supervision of tho enterprising engineer, Mr. Elliott, was ra])idly progressing, when tlie plank on the Foot I'ridge, which wero not bolted down, were blown otr by a tremendous tornado into the rajmU Six men wero at work on the bridge at the tim^'v two made their escape to tho shore — the fnnl structure next the tower was gone — four men wei o left at the mercy of the tempest, hanging with but two strands ofyNo. 10 wire to support them, and pre- vent their falling into tho rapids below. The wires to which they clung, with the tenacity of despair, oscillated with the utmost velocity sixty or seventy feet. The wind increased, and for a moment no power short of Omnipotence appeared capable of afibrding thera the least relief. Their cries for assistance were becoming more feeble and indistinct, until they died away and were entirely lost amid • The Basket is on the Canada side of the Bridge, kep' fo? viiiitors to look at BrsrzNsioN duidge. C9 ?he liowllnor totnpost; their hold on life more and iiioro enfot'blo'l, anvho liclield tliis licart-rendinG; sceiio, evory instant to p(;o tlioin make tho headlong phingo. Tho wind lulled fur a moment, tlio IJasket was instantly lot ''.own, with ono mini, carrying a small ladder, rost- in:r on tho bottom and extending? to tlio wires to vliich thoy hung, and thus ono of tho men do .^-..'ended and was drawn to tho shore. IxeturnincT t!ic second time, for tho others, ono of them c.\- (liiiincd, "bo quick, my strength is most gone, I (•'lall fall inl" but fortunately tlioy wero all saved; r.no of tliem, however, coidd not stand for two hoars after ho got to tho shore. AVheu the I'oot Ilri'lgG was laid down, before thero was any railing, Mr. Elliot drovo a liorso and buggy across, and r.'turned. The fallowing arfj tlio dimensions of tho Gr<:jat Itailroad Suspension Uridge: I-(Miu'ih of spiiii from centre to centre of Tou'ors 800 fcot li. i.,'iit of Tower above rock on tlio Ain'n si'lo bS " " .< << it ; Canad'u " 78 " " " " " Floor of Hallway.... CO" " " track " Water 258 '* .V .rrihcr of Wire Cables i l>i.iincter of each Cable lO.Jin's Ki'.niber of No. 1) wires in each Cable 3C)'}'J t iLiinatc af;t:;re{^ato strength of Cables.. ixJ.lOOt'na VVrir^ht of Superstructure 800 " " •* " and maximum loads 1250 ** Maximum ',rci;^l:t tlie c;'ble and Gtay^^'ill nu]^- wrt.... !.7n(iO " '5 ;i.:f: m H W SI:! I r 70 EVERT MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. rn.sr of Towrr? 1 ft fl f/j , Top 8 " Loi;t,'lli of each lij^ptT Cfiblo l-"**^^ '"<'f t* «' " " IcWtT " llliO " Dppt.h of nndicr pits holow si!rf;i»x> of rock.. .21) to 30 " Omsi.le wiiltUof Rail Road floor 21 " iDKido " " " " " 'J'3 " Total length of Wire in mllrs 'ICUO Tlie novelty of crossinjj nnd coimectinc' Iho two Governments, by an Iron cliain/'-' was the bridj^'a first used irjtii of Marcli, 1848, built by Mr. Chas. EllioL It was a liijlit st of about 8">00,0&(). It w;is a proud (lay for Mr. Roebling, Thursday, March Stli, 185'), wlicn he crossed by steam for tho first time, this wonderful structure. The carriage floor which will ;dso be used for foot passengei-s, is suspi nded 23 feet below the R. 11. track ; it is therefore r.n encliv sure, securely railed in, atlbrdiug to visito)s,by wrdk- ing across, (which is usually preferred) the finest op- ]iortunity of viewing the scenery both up and down the river, and giving ample tiino to fully appreciate the astonishing mechanism on which they are stand- •I'lio wires were first got across by inoaiip of a Kite. ^ BENDERS CAVE. 71 If, n f/(, !K) " /) :. The est enu'i- It iiTider icer, .'vii'l It w.-i.- a .vch Stii, Irst time, lor Mliich nilcd 23 nil PiioI'V by waik- (inest o{>. ,nd down ,]>preciato iro stiiud* ^ iiiLT over tiio awful Lrulpli bciicalli. TIic R. R. Brido'o is cciistrueted to iiicei tlio wants of all the lines cf II. 11. tliat centre liore. A G foot fnia'-'o u laid r.crosa f'r liio Eric Road — a 4 foot 8.} inch for tlio Nlw York Central, and a 5 foot G inch iov the Great Yv'e,-ti'rn Canada Road. Thus althouirh there arc three distinct tracks laid HQvoea tlie brid';e, onlyono train can occnpy tlieni at once — all being within the coiu|i;v;S of a G foot guago, and by au higenious Ci':'tri\ancoof switches, all possibiUty of danger from ojlli.sion is avoided. Afler crossinu: the bridixo take (ho left hand road ; tlii:> gives you a better view of the deep greeu river bt'luw you, the |)erpcndicular, rocky banks for two miles, and you arrive at the Clifton House. For a dosoription of the several places you will visit, see Appendix. Ls on the Canada side, about half way between tliti Clifton Houi^o and the Suspension liridge. It *s a cavity in the bank, about six feet high, and wenty long, formed by a decomposition of the lirne- ■t:)no. It is not a placo of much resort. Ill i!i ffi'i r i, i CHAPTER IV. "WiiiRLrooL, on tlio Aiiiorican side, Is tlireo miloM bolow tlio Falls; there is an excellent carriage-road, planked tlio iii(-''st of tlie way. Expenses for car- riage, one dollar per lionr. Passing tbrougli the gate near tlio Lank, twenty-five cent^ f(^r cacli per- pon. This is entirely different from any thing which lias been seen about Niafjjara. After viowinix this wild freak of nature's work from above, let the visi- tor, by all means, go below. From a bench placed for the accommodation of travelers, let him stop about thirty f^et up tlio ri\'.cr. ITore commences tho v.-indinir circuitous st'iirwav that leads to tho water's edge. There is no place about Niagara .'is wild and terrific as thin. About half way down tlto bank is a smooth, flat rock, projecting over his path some ten fee.t. This M called the lialf-way house. Parties of pleasure frequently drink a bottle of champagne here in honor of the plac > •^ 3: o o -H 38 O ffl en > > > :>3 » i ; I' III wmmmmmmH i 1:1 hi !. ^ ^ ■^ti; •I 1 A TOUR TO TIIi: V.'IiinLroOL. 73 eyes up tlio livei' toward the Cnnada shore; you '.vill at onco jXTCoivc the river is vciy consiJerably high.or ill the center than it is on each side. It is e.siiiiiatcd by the Eno-inecrs, to bo eleven and a lialf fvct. If two men stand, the one -with his feet in the water on the American s:\d(}, and the other on tl;e Canada shore, and extend their hands as hia'h f\i tlioy can reach, with a handlcercliief or any thing of the kind in it;, it cannot be seen by either. \\q know of no way to account for tliis wonderful freak of nature, unless its being compressed v.ithin tho bfuiks, fi'.i.l meeting with such resistance on tho Canada sido, having to turn almost an acute angle, that it cannot find its way out as fast as it accumu- lates abo\e. Our business, however, is not to phi- losophize, but to slate facts. Tho "Whirlpool is visited by thousands for the wild and magnificent grandeur, of its scenery. The li^'or, in its wildest fuiy, THshes against a perpendicular bank about three liundr'-i feet high, producing a re-action, roaiing and swelling like some enraged giant strn^.rgling to bo free. Logs, and other bodio?., have been known to float in this whirl of waters for forty, and sometimes ninety days, before they could lind their Tvay out. Tho following are among the many questions usu ally aeked by the vi^^itor before descending the baok. urn m re- r 74 EVER? MAN HI3 OWN GUIDE. pi lit,' ¥\ I! h m nf L>t. I;* Q. St. Mary, what a scene is tliis ! Where doea the river go ? .... A. There is no internal outlet. Step a few roda below — now look! One of tIie Ladies. How beautiful and clear, and yet how powerful and rapid! With what commotion it bounds away I Is this a branch of Kiagara ? A. No, Madam, this is the whole of the river — all the Niagara we have. Lady. Oh ! wonderful, subHme, and mighty river! , A. It is truly a wonderful river. ' Three and a half miles below the Falls is the Whirlpool ; and here a man by the name of Samuel Whitmore, of this township, threw a stone across to the Canada shore. Note. — In June, 1841, three young men, desert- ers from the British Ai'my, in attempting to cross the Niagai-a River in the night, below the Falls, were drowned, and their bodies were carried into the Whirlpool. For nearly two weeks they were float- ing round, amid the wrecks and floating timbers. The following remarks, by a gentleman who saw them several days afterward, are descriptive of the ■cene, and we ragret the writer's name is withheld* The Author, SCENE AT THE WHIRLPOOL. 76 From far abovo, iinpotuouslj The raging waters sweep ; They come in their sublimity; Descending leap o'er leap ; In wrath and foam they rush along — Through cavern'd rocks they flow, And high toward the rairror'd skies, The feathery mist they throw. Legend of the WureLPOOi- Drive on, Drive on ye ever curling waves. Still fall, rebound, and sink away, in deafening notes; let your AviJd cliorus peal, while from the shore, the trembling rocks give way, and roll destruction to tbe cavernod deep. Amazement fills my mind while I behold these awful depths, doomed to perpetual strife, to agitation, and unceasing war. Those barriers firm, the rolling waves, within the bounds prescribed by Him who made them for his pleasure and at his word piled -high, those monu- mental rocks. The powerful stream has rent aside he earth, and far below the hills, and the surround- ng plain has sunk its course, sweeping resistless on ta way, till, where old time on yonder lofty point has raised, for ages past, his throne of massive rocks, he bids the waves be stayed ; receding back affrightxjd from their course, adverse they flow to nature's general law. The mighty flood reels like a dmnken man, it wreths and foams. The angry Whirlpool .■!, find frig-btful death presents liis Joatbsome front. E'en now liis work is I'iding on (lio deep, in mystic maze around, submis- sive Iicre. And tlicre, liideous to siglit, amid broken wrecks three human forms appear as in liA^; ^^!lh arms outspread upon the tossing v/aves, tliey whirl in the teriific da'.u'e of dt.'illi; in waving unison above ihr.'w licads, in snovr-wbile ]>]umes the screech- ing gulls repeat their cry, s'i:l, sliiill, and dissonant. It is their banquet, r,nd to them their notes, amid their feast is sweet and iv.usical. It even was voluptuary's song. Lnte, in t]ic?c forms high expectations bhized, of hi v'lfy, of hope, of liappi- r.G.-v, the i)rom!sed hmd in view, comfort, long life, freedom and all the aspirations which man's fond heart revels rejoicing in, Avhcn the rapt mind tho glorious future paints. Thy stream, Kiagara, Jay midway between the prospect of their visionary joys. They trusted to thy cold embracing waves, ' and they arc thine; cut off from hi*c they perished while hope's bewitching flowers were blossoming for them. Thou ruthless stream upon whc;;o ];eavi:^.g bosom they are borne, night after night its lonely darkness spreads, and day succeeds to day, still thou DEVILS HOLE. 77 cradlCvSt tliem in cruel mockery of this world's hope. How did they give up life; and villi cold death, with wli;iL strong nguny did tliey eontend! ^VIlat prayers arose, what thoughts, what words were theirs! How, 'mid tho w.nes, they cheered each other on. Hold on, the shore \a near! I see it there. Help, my strength fails, I slide — have mercy. Lord ! "Who knows hi.s lot, A\hen will death strike his blow; 'mid gurgling Hoods shall our hibt struggles ho, or shall our doom in instant vengeance fall, our bodies riven by the Hash of Hea\en ? Vv'ho formed us men, will work his own good enil the Bloody Run, or the HovilH Hole. It is about a milo below, and Chasm Tower in the ueiglibcrhood. Is three and a half miles below tho Falls on the American side, formed by a chasm in ihe ea.-torn bank of the river one hundruj iifly or two liundi-ed feet deep. An angle of this gulf is witliin a few feet of the road, oflering the tiateler, ^\khout alight- ing, an 0]>p(n'tuni!:y of looking into tho yawning abyss beneath. During the French wai-, a detach- ment of the Ihitlsh armv, while i-etreatlno; from Fort Sehlosscr, (about ii\'e miles soutli,) were decoyed Nl ' m 78 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. f: m 1 1 -r i'l . . 1 ' t : ', * r 1 ; ■ 1 ■ ii ^ iuto an ambush of Fiendi and Iiuliaiis. The yell of tho savage, jus it rung out upon the luklnight air, was tho first indication of their attack. Baggago- wjigons, oiHcera, men, woinfn and children, were en- circled and pushed over tho bank, and plunged into the awful chasm below. I'y the most authentic ac- count, tho number who perished is two hundred and fifty. Their bones lay bleaching for yeai-s, and some of thcra aro to be seen to this day. Two persons only escaped ; a drummer who was caught in the branch of a tree in his descent, and a man by the name of Stedman, (the same who put the goats upon Goat Island ;) while attempting to flee, tlie biidle-reins were seized by the savnges; he in- stantly cut them loose and escaped. The Indians afterward gave him all the land he encircled in his flight, which was the point between the Devil's Hole and Fort Schlosser, including tho Falls. The visitor can descend tho stairs to tho water's edge if he chooses, but, like tho "Indian gun, it costs more than it comes to." What has produced this wonder- ful chasm, is left much to conjecture to dotermine. Professor Lyell thinks the small stream that pours over into the gulf, hear an old saw-mill, would have been "perfectly competent to have cut the ravine, and we need look for no more powerful cause." The battle above mentioned, occurred 1 7 65. Charges for going on to the rock, and descending the stairs CHASM TOWER — MATD OF THE MIRT, AC. 79 Itelow, twelvG .'uul n lialf cents. Chasm Tower, or Mount Eagle, is a few rods below. Is three and a half miles below the Falls, Amer- ican side. A panoramic view, the specular medium on the top of the Tower, through which the land- scape is viewed in varied and glowing colors, the deep gulf, the infuriated river, as it roai"s and rushes with the velocity of light, the Canada shore, Brock's monument, make it attractive, and visitors are generally interested. Charges twelve and a half cents for ascending the Tower, seventy-five feet high. 5)J^I() of i[)e ?tflsf, Two miles below the Falls, usually makes three trips a day, passing American Fall, Goat Island, Horse Sh- I'till, and returns to her landing just above ihe r pension Bridge. Tho boat makes her trip m about tiiirty-five or forty minutes. If i| C I( iT) e i| ^l)b G l| I () C 3 . There is generally carriages to be had at any time, and at all places that you may be; for the hackmen make ijfc a business to hunt up parties, and carry them who.sver they m ^y want to go. There arc also persoLs who act as guides, and who go with |v,r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 11.25 bilM 12.5 12.2 ^ "^ lllls£ I- I. Wuu im Hill— 1.4 mil 1.6 I y ^% iS W : V MMtN STRICT WIBST{^ " Indian Village 9 ~ ** Lewiston 7 '* Fort Niagara It *» IS^urabcr stops a t the Ferry 290 " " " " Whirlpool 85 " " " Devil's Hole 64 '* '♦ " Chasm Tower 90 Is ulne miles from tiro Falls, American side. There is nothing here that has the shape of a village. A few scattering huts, most of them log-houses, arc all that can be seen. A ride to the meeting-house on the Sabbath is frequently made — pleaching in English by a missionary, and interpreted into tho [I if ' •fwTl Ci 'A X < o Cm CO i < < 1 1 :'1 HEALTH OF THE FALLS — GAME. 81 ji idian language bj the chief, or one of the tribe. Itey are the Tuscaroras, formerly from North Car- olina, once a powerful, warlike tribe, but are dimin- ished away to a mere handful. Their women are at the Falls nearly every day during the visiting sea- 6on, and are very ingenious in making bead-work, which they offer for sale. Charges for a cai-riage to the village, there i*^ no definite price ; generally from three to four dollars. ifeqlfft of l()e I^\\$. No place in the United States can boast of a greater degi'ee of uninterrupted health than the Falls. Not an epidemic, or case of cholera has ever originated here, though the fell destroyer has laid low many citizens at Buflfalo, Tonawanta, Lockport and Lewiston ; yet wo have escaped. This is attrib- utable, doubtless, in some degree, to the rapid cur- rent of the river, and the pure and exhilarating state of the atmosphere. Whatever may be the cause, nch is the fact; and it is acknowledged by every ne. i'i] Some strangers visit the Falls with all the imple- ments for a long and successful chase among the buffalo, bear and deer ; but nothing of the kind ia foui^d in our woods, though they miglit, in former 11 82 EVKRr MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. 1. Iff! ages, Iiavo roamed fearless tbroiigli tlie forest here; but now tliey are all gone — a few squirrels, pheas- ants and duclis are only to be met with. Ooeasiou- ally a bald e;iglo is seen sailing high in air, whose eye is not dimmed by the noontide blaze, aijd dai't- ing its fiery look upon the multitudes who congn> gate upon the banks of this mighty river, and with a piercing scream, soaring away to the lands unknown. At Fort Schlosscr, two and a half miles above the Falls, a few Avhitc and black bass are taken, and those who arc expert, often catch the pickei'cl and the pike, and considerable quantities of dillerent kinds are sometimes taken in nets. The angler is frequently more successful below Biddlo Stairs, west side of Goat Island. ?\ h) i( ? e h} e ») f S . Nature has done much to arause, art but little. A ball-alley, billiard-table, cotillion parties are the principal. G I) n l' c () e 3 . There is a Presbyterian, an Episcopahan, a Methodist, a Lai)tlst and a Catholic church. HOTELS — INDIAN CURIOSITIES. 82 ire; |.'l.S- :)ii- liit- ■10- [ith huh a if f e I ,s . Tho Cataract House lias lone: t)een consideied Rinong the first cIjlss bouses in tlio United States. The International Hotel is also a new and first class house, centi-ally located, with spacious rooms and ele- g-ant a]»pointraent8. Tho Eagle, the Empire, tho Falls Ilotid, tho National, the Franklin House, tha Ningara, tho St. Lawrence, tl i Averil House, tho Chir(;ndou, tho Rochester House, and *he AVestom Hotel, are all Houses well patronised during tho Visiting Season. The Monteagh) House, located at tho Suspension Bridge, is considered ono of the finest Hotels in tho country. 'Jbe ^6 ileqijx College, Situated at tho Falls, was founded by the bequest of tho person whose name it bears, for tho educa- tioii of orphan children of parents belonging to the Episcopal Church. The great Indian store directly opposite the Cat- aract House, is the most extensive in the state. At the old Curiosity shop, toll-gate, and on Goat Island, are also largo assortments of Indian, moose-hair, Quaker and other kinds of work for sale. 1.? !?1 I ' h: CHAPTER V. 1^ece33ioi) of f()e fqll3. Professor Lyeli says : — " The fii-st feature which strikes you in this region is the escarpment, or line of inland cliffs, one of which runs to a great distance east from Queenston. On the Canada side it has a height of more than three hundred feet The fir«l question which occurs when we consider the nature of the country, is, how cUfFs were produced ; why do we so suddenly step from this range to the gypseous marls, and then so suddenly to the subjacent shale and sandstone. We have similar lines of escarpment in all countries, especially where the rock is limestone ; and they are considered to be ancient sea-clifFs, which have become more gentle in their slope, as the country has emerged from the ocean. You may perhaps ask if the Ontario may not once have stood at a higher level, and the cliffs been produced by it action, instead of that of the ocean. Some of you may have rode along the ridge road, as it is called, that remarkable bank of sand which exists parallel, or nearly so, to the present borders of Lake Ontario, at a considerable height above it. I perfectly agree with the general opinion respecting this, that it was ^TT EECE88ION OF THE PALLS. 85 the ancient boundary of Lake Onturio. In somo parts of it fresh water shells have bi^en found. You cannot explain the escarpment hy the aid of the ac- tion of the lake, ft^r it extends f;irther and not in the Barae direction. When the land emei-god gradually from the sea, as it is now doing, the sea would natu rally create those sea-clilFs, and during the upheaval they would of course become inland. In Europe, proofs that limestone rocks have been washed away are abundant. In Greece, in the Morea, this is especially conspicuous. We have tiiere tlireo limestones one above the otlier, at various distances from the sea. Along the lino you may see literal caves worn out by the action of the waves. The action of the salt spray, which has also effected a sort of chemical de- composi'jon, is also easily to be observed. So com- pletel) s this the case with eacli of these lines that you cannot doubt for an instant that hei-e is a series of inland cliffs; and this phenomenon being so cer- tain in the Morea, leads us by analogy to infer that these escarpments of the distiict were produced by a similar cause. It is not disputed that there is some change going on at the falls, even now. There occurs, us we know, occasionally a falling down of fi'agments of rock, aa may be seen at Coat Island. The shale at the bot- tom is destroyed in consequence of the action of the epray and frost ; the limestone being thus undermined, 66 EVERT MAN illS OWN GUIDK. sUmI' %. r: falls down ; and it has beeii belioved that m this way thero has been a recc^sfeion of about fifty yards in about forty years; but this is now generally admitted to have been o\'erstated. I'here is at least a probable recession of about ono foot every year : though part of the fall may go back fjister than this ; yet if you regard tho whole river, even this probably will be soraethinjx of an exarjinjeration. Our obsen'ations upon this point are necessarily imperfect; and when wo reflect that fifty yeai-s ago the country was per- fectly wild, and inhabited by beai-s, wolves, and here and there a hunter, we shall think it surprising that we have any observations at all, even for such a period back. Wo have an account of tho faUs, given by Father Hennepin, a French Missionary, who gives an exaggerated description of them, and yet one which is tolerably correct. He represents a cascade as falling from the Canada side across the other two. He says that between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, there is a vast and wonderful waterfall ; after speaking of this, he says there is a third cascade at the left of the other two, falling from west to east, the other falling from south to north. Ho several times alludes to the thu'd cascade, which he says was smaller than the other two. Now, those who consider that be- cause Father Hennepin gave the height of the falls at six hundred feet, small value is to be attached to his testimony respecting any part of the country, do h RECESSION OF THE FALLS. 87 biiu injustice. I tliink it perfectly evident tliat there must Lave been such a third ciiscade, falling from we.st to eiLst, jls that to which he alludes. A Danish naturalist, in the year 1750, who came to this country and visited tlie falls, of which he has also given us a description, which was published in the Gentleman's Magazine, in 1751, also gives a view of the Falls. In its general features his description agrees well with that of Father Hennepin. He went seventy-three years after liim, and there was then no third cascade. But the point where Father Hennepin had put liis cascade, he had marked, and says that, " that is the place where the water was forced out of its direct course by a prodigious rock, which turned the water and oblijxed it to fall across the falls." Ho goes on to say, that only a few years before, there had been a downfall of that rock ; which was un- doubtedly part of the table rock ; and after that the cascade ceased to flow. Now, it does not appear whether he had ever seen Hennepin's account or not, he only mentions the fact that there had been a thirl cascade; and it is a striking confirmation of the accuracy of Father Hennepin's description. We find these two observers, at an interval of seventy years apart, remarking on the very kind of change which we now remark as having taken place within the last fifty years; an undermining of the rock, and a falling down of the hmestone, and a consequent i 88 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. obHtcrfition of tlio fall. Every one wHa hafl vis- ited the Falls, on irKiulriiisj of the ^uik-s about the ohaiigos that have taken place, may have been told t'ittt the American Fall has become more cres- cent shaped than it was thirty years ago, when it was nearly straight. The center has given way, and now tl ere is an indentfition of nearly thirty feet. The Horse Shoo Fall also has been considerably al- tered. Jt is not of so regular a crescent shape as formerly, lut has a more jagged outline, especially near Goat Islund ; it has ^ess of the horse-shoe shape, from which it derives its name, than when it wjis given. It is qui^o certain that things there are not stationary ; and t .10 great question is, whether, by this accion, tbo v/holo Falls have been reduced in this manner. Fi'om representations made by other travelers, I was desirous of ascertaining whether fresh water remains were found on Goat Island, as had been said; for it would bo striking, if on this island there should be a stratum of twenty-five feet of sand and loam, pebbles and fresh water shells. They were found there, and I made a collection of several species of shells found on the island ; among them were the planorhis^ a small valvata and sev- eral other kinds. They were of kinds generally found living in the rapids, in the river above, or in the lake. In digging a mill-raco there, only a few years II I UECKSSION OF THE FALLS. 89 since, tliere were found a great number of sluills, and al.so a tooth of a mastodon, sonvo twelve or thirteen feet below the surface. It waa the comii;on Ohio mastodon, and must have been buried beneath these twelve or thirteen feet of fresh water deposit, one layer at a time, each containing dillerent shells. In answer to my question, whether similar shells were ever found lower down ? the guide said he would take mo to a place, half a niilo below, where the strata had been laid open. Wo found there depos- ited in the rock a small quantity of fresh water shells, showing that this old deposition extended down to that distance. Here we have proofs that the river once stood at a higher level, and in a tranijuil state; and there is every appearance of the rock having been like a solid barrier to iiold the waters back in a lake-hke state, so that they might throw down those fresh water deposits at that height. You will understand this better, if you consider that if tho Falls go on receding, no matter at what rate, — an inch, a foot, a yard, a year, — in the course o^ time the whole must recede considerably from its present condition. "What proofs should we have of this afterward? You will easily see that if the river should cut its way back to a certain point, the effect would be to remove the rocky barrier, the limestone of the rapids, which has been sufficient to pond the nver back. But if the river cuts ita way back, this ;■ ii ^i 'a%^¥ 90 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDK. :{ i,i-i* 'n vii ! i 1' : , lUI barrier could no longer exist; the channel would be deepened, and tlie deposits existing high and dry upon the land, would become proof of the recession. This kind of proof we have, that the Falls have re- ceded three miles from the Whirlpool, the limestone having been higher at the Whirlpool than the river at the Falls. It may be well to say, that the beds all dip to the south, at the rate of about twenty-five feet in a mile. In seven miles the dip causes a gen- eral rise of the platform to the north, so that when at the top of the cliff, you are at a gre."*er height than the level of Lake Eric; and if the Falls wore formerly at Queenston, their height was probably near double what they now are. Mr. Hall suo^jxested that at that time the whole fall was not at One place, and I think it quite likely that such was the case. There is reason to believe that one fall was upon the quartzose sand below, and the other on the Protean bed. The upper part would of course recede ftister than the lower, because it is softer, as is seen to be the case at Rochester; but the limestone becoming thicker and harder, would recede more slowly. There may have been several falls, as at Rochester, each one of them being le^s high than at present, and yet the whole being nearly double its present height. I told you that the river fell about one hundred feet between the base of the Falls and Lewiston, so yn RECESSION OF THE FALLS. 91 that the bed slopes at that rate. This slope of the river, and then the upward slope of the platform, are the reasons why the Falls are now of less height than formerly ; so when we carry ourselves back in imagination to the time when the river had not i;e- C€ded so fur, we have a barrier of limestone much higher. The valley in which the river then floved must have been much narrower than its present ra- vine. The distance now from the Canada to the American side is about three quarters of a mile, whereas at half a mile below, it is only half that distance. Farther investigations, by tracing the fresh water deposits lower, will give more precise information. You might suppose that if we find the remains of a mastodon in a fresh water deposit so lately laid dry, as th;it near the village of Niagara, and only twelve feet below the surface, the mastodon has lived in the country at a modern period; you might think that a few centuries would have been sutlii-'iont for the accumulation of twelve feet of shelly sandstone and limestone, and that it may have been recently that this mastodon was buried, when the barrier was at the Whirlpool, before this twelve feet of fluviatile strata were deposited. Yet these strata are older than the Whirlpool. Among the ol)jections to tlie supposition that tha ravine was cut out by the Niagara, one is, that at 4 m 92 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. W' it I '( ; 1? the place called the Devil's Hole, or the Bloody Run, the ravine roust have been cut by some more power- ful cause, than by a slight stream. But this I regard as no objection at all, for on ex- amining the nature of the soil, &c^ I am convinced that even the small stream which now flows, wouU have been perfectly competent to cut out the ravine^ and that we need look for no more powerful cause. Suppose the Falls once to have been near Queens* ton, they would recede differently at different times; faster when the soft shale was at the base, at other times slowly, when the hard sandstone was to be cut through. First of all comes the quart zoso sand- stone for a certain distance; then the falls recede slowly, but more rapidly when it came to the soft shales. Then comes the sandstone again at the base, which now extends to the Whirlpool, and here the movement was slow. It piobably stood for ages at the Whirlpool. Then for another period it receded more rapidly ; and it is probable that for the last mile, its recession has been comparatively slow, because the Protean group, and about twenty feet of sandstone, making about fifty feet of hard rock at the base were to be cut through. It is cer- tain that the movement now is at a faster rate, as the shale is exposed." The above reasoning perfectly coincides with the Dpinion of Dr. Dwight, and others who have devoted IS,* m NIAOAHA. 03 any time to the subject, and strangers, as far as the author has been enabled to learn, have come to the saiPQ conclusion. Is an Indian word, from Onyakarra, supposed to be the Iroquois language, as they were the first who dwelt here, as far as we know. The meaning of the term is "mighty, wonderful," thundering water. It lies in latitude 43 degrees, G minutes north, and longitude 2 degrees, 5 minutes west from London. NIAGAllA IN THB WINTEIl OF 1855. The almost unparalleled severity of the Win'^r of 1855-6, was not without its eircct on the I' alls, causing a combination of the rarest ice formations, perhaps, ever presented in their history. Then tha Northern King had full sway, and the frost worked its wonders on tlie water, turning the river into hard, unyielding granite. The silence of the grave hung over nature, broken only by the eternal roar of that descending cataract, as the torrent rushed amongst the gigantic columns and magic shreds of ice. Facing the Horse Shoe Falls rose mountains of ice, resembling the vast glaciers that re- pose on the sides of the Alps, while in each crevice and hidden nook were fairy scenes of loveliucss and beauty, the sole work of frost and spray. Strong as was the iron grasp of Winter, petrifying in its power, that eternal (flood unchecked descended, colder in its aspect, darker 'and more mysterious than in Summer is its expression. Language, indeed, is powerless to portray Niagara as it then appealed, in its Winter di-ess. k:] W i> 'm 1 ! CHAPTER VL Ifte b|f)j)ei' Holies. We will now invite the attention of the traveler to the head waters of the N iagai-a River. Lake Superior is the greatest body of fresh water in the world. It is near the north-west boundaiy of the United States. A small riyer flows into it from the north, fed by the red lakes in Canada. It lies between 46 and 49 degrees of north lati- tude, and between 84 and 93 degrees of west longi- tude from London. It is 459 miles long, 109 wide, and 800 feet deep. In the neighborhood of Lake Superior are the greatest and richest copper mines in the world. The following are the principal rivers that flow into this inland sea: Taquamenaw, White Fish, Two Heaii, Prairie, Chocolate, Dead, Garlic, St. Johns, Huron, Keewitiwana, Misery, Flint Steel, Octonagon, Iron, Camp, Montreal, Chippewa, Wis- consin, and several smaller ones, making forty-five small and three large rivers that empty into this lake. On the Iron river are perpendicular falls of more than 600 feet, and some of the rivers are large, and navigable for hundreds of miles. The outlet !!■ \M fi* Tff THE CTFER LAKES. 95 of Lake Superior is ine Straits of St. Mary^s. It is 05 miles long, and pours its watera into Lake Huron. This lake is 218 miles long, 180 wide, and 500 feet deep. Tlie boundary line between Canada and the United States passes through the center of this lake. Lake Huron receives the waters of Lake Michigan, through the Straits of Mackinaw, which are 15 miles long, and 10 broad. The following are some of the principal rivera that empty into Lake Huron : Saginaw, Ausable, Thunder Bay, Cheboygan, Cass, Tiltibawasse, and several smaller ones. Lake Michigan is 300 miles long, 55 wide, and 200 feet deep. Some of the principal rivers that empty into Lake Michigan, are : the Betseys, Manis- ta, Natipekago, White, Mashegon, Grand, Kalamazoo, St. Josephs, with eight smaller rivers. Green Bay empties into Lake Michigan, on the north-west corner. It is 100 miles long, 20 wide, and '75 feet ieep. Green Bay receives the watei-s of Fox River, which is the outlet of Winnebago Lake. Menomo- nee, Peshtigo, Oconto, and several streams of smaller size, discharge their watera into this Bay. All the watera of the upper Lakes, the wonder and admira- ti"^ of the world, are united and empty into the St Clair River, 40 miles long, and 35 feet deep. St. Clair River discharges its waters into St. Clair Lake, which is about 95 miles in circumference. The ©uUetof this lake is the River Detroit, 27 miles long, ir ,;( ' 90 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDK. ^f and twenty-five feet deep, v Mch empties into Lako Erie, which is three hundred and ninety miles long, sixty-five wide, and nine hundred feet deep. The Sandusky, the Grand, the Cuyahoga, the Maumee and several smaller rivers empty into Lake Erie. Such are the sources of Niagara River — inferior for splendor, grandeur, and magnificence to none on the globe. The outlet of ten lakes and more than one hundred rivers, it drains, from both, a surface of over 150,000 square miles of water. Lake Erie is three hundred and thirty-nine feet higher than Lake Ontario, (distance thirty-six miles,) and five hundred and sixty-five feet above the level of the ocean. Niagara lliver falls from Lake Erie to Goat Island, (twenty-two miles) twenty-five feet; from the head of Goat Island to the main fiill, ( half a mile) fifty-two feet; perpendicular height of the Falls on the American side, one hundred and sixty- four feet; on the Canada side, one hundred and fifty eight; from the Falls to the "Whiilpool, (two and a half miles) sixty-four; from the Whirlpool to Lake Ontario, (eleven miles) twenty-five; total, three hundred and thirty-nine. We will now briefly notice some of the most important places we have passed from the head waters of Lake Superior to the Falls, and then start on our northern tour. The falls of St. Marys are between Lake Superior and Lake Huron, ofiering great hydraulic power. THE UPPER LAKES. 97 which, when the country becomes more settled, must be extensively used. The Straits of Mackinaw connect Lake Michigan with Lake Huron. It is a military post. The Indians assemble here once a year to receive their annuity from the United States government, Detroit is eighteen miles from Lake Erie, situ- ated on a riyer of the same name. It was formerly a miUtary post of the French, and a great depot for the fur trade. It is now the seat of an extensive conMnerce. Population 20,000. The Michigan Central Railroad commences at Detroit for Chicago, Distance two hundred md sixty-eight miles. Amherstburgh, (Upper Canada,) generally known by the name of Maiden, is at the mouth of the Detroit River, where, during the last war, a very se- vere engagement between the British and Americans was fouffht. The bones of seven hundred of the bravest sens of Kentucky lay bleaching upon the earth, the victims of the most wanton perfidy ; but the British paid dearly for this outrage, at the battle of the Thames. s: •^•-•ij^.^i Sandusky is in the state of Ohio, on a bay of the game name near the head of Lake Erie — a thriv- ing, commercial place. Cars leave daily for Cincinnati. Cleveland is handsomely located, and has great commercial advantages both by the lake, Ohio and Erie C&nn] and the Cincinnati railroad. 1 1 ; I •f 'tfl ? 98 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. AsHTAnuLA, (Ohio,) has a tolerably good harbor, but it is diilicult for vessels to get iu, in time of a storm. DuNKiiiK, (N. Y.,) of necessity must bo a place of great importance, it being the terminus of the New York and Erie Eailroad — through to Nevr York in eighteen hours. Buffalo, at the outlet of Lake Erie is the great commercial emporium of western New York. It has no rival in the Ertipire State. Th^ capital in- vested, the enterprise of its inhabitants, the amount of business done, cannot be surpassed. Several of the buildings are grand specimens of architooture, and would do credit to any city in America. Pop- ulation 50,000. Seven trains of cars leave daily (Sundays excepted) for Albany, Saratoga, Boston, pjissing through Rochester, Canandaigua, Geneva, Auburn, Syracuse, Utica, Schenectady, &.C. Distance from Chicago (111.) to Buffalo, via Michigan Central Railroad, is as follows: From Cliicago to New Buffalo 50 rallefl, " Xew BuiFalo to Detroit 218 " '' " Detroit to Buffalo 250 " Black Rock, four miles from Buffalo, possesses advantages from its hydraulic power, but does not appear to be much improved. ToNAWANTA, eleven miles from the Falls. The railroad crosses the Tonawanta creek and Erie canal, at this place. CIIAPTEIl VII. Having accompanied tLe tourist to the sources of Ni.'igara, we will now start on our northern tour to Montreal and Quebec, and see wlicro the mighty river empties. But before wo leave, wo will count up the distances, which are as follows: (Canada side.) Niagara Falls to Lewiston 9 — 9 Lewiston to Toronto ; steamboat 43 — 52 Toronto to Port Hope 65— 1 17 fort IIopo to Cobourg 7 — 12i Cobourg to Kingston 110—231 Kingston to Brockville 52 — 2S6 Brockville to Ogdensburgh 1 2— 20S Ogdensburgh to Cornwall 50 — 348 Cornwall to Coteau du Lac 41 — 3^9 Coteau to Cascades 14 — 430 Cascades to Lacliino 24—427 Lachine to Montreal 9—436 Blonti'cal to La Prarie ; steamboat !) — 9 La Piai'ie to St. Johns ; railroad li^ — 24 mm m m m"^ H-J 100 EVERT MAN EIS OWN GUIDE. St Johns to Burlington ; steamboat 75 — 99 Burlington to Whitehall 75—174 Whitehall to Saratoga ; railroad 36—210 Saratoga to Troy; railroad 31—241 Or from Whitcliall to Troy ; raikoad G5— 306 Passengers for Lake Georgo stop at Ticoudcroga. Ticonderoga to Alexandria ; stage 3 Through Lake George to Caldwell ; steamboat 36 Caldwell to Saratoga ; stage 27 Burlington to Boston; railroad 212 Troy to New York ; steamboat 1 50 Troy to Boston ; railroad 20G By tho Canadian mail line, passengers go through from Niagara Falls to Montreal, in thirty-six hours, passing tho Thousand Islands, and the River St. Lawrence by daylight. A short description of the places we pass on our route from the Falls* to Mon- treal, Lake Champlain, Saratoga, (fee, will now bo given. Lewiston is seven miles from the Falls, at tlio head of navigation on Lake Ontario, lliis place, together with Niagara Village, Black Rock and Buf- falo, was laid in ruins in the war of 181 2-1 o. " There can be little doubt," says Professor Lyell, *'that the mighty cataract of Niagara poured its im- mense volumes of water here, and by a constant abrasion has receded seven miles." • Three trains of cars leave the Falls daily (Sundays ex- cepted) for Buflalo and Albany. Through to Albany in fourteen hoxirs. KORTIIERN TOUR. 101 QuEEXSTON is directly oi>posito liOwislon, at tlio foot of tho heights generally known as the "baltlo of Queenston Heights." The banks below the vil- higo are seventy icet high ; abo\o, two hundred and tliirty. The river is six hundred feet wide. A sus- pension bridge is now conipletet.! across the river, owned by a joint stock con)])any of Canadians and Americans. Dimensions: ten wire cables; distinico between towers, 1040 fett; tolal length of cables, 12-15; length of road- way, eight hundred and forty- nine; width, twenty feet; it is estimated to bear eiglit hundred and thirty-live tons without breaking; cost, £12,000 or 800,000. Bkock's Monument is on Quoonston Heights, (Canada side.) Height, one hundred and tv/ent}- six feet, and from top to the level of Kiagaia lliver, three lumdi'cd and ninety-six; number of ste])s, one hundred and seventy. It was attempicd to be blown up by one Lett, a Frenchman, who nearly lost his life, by this savage freak of revenge. Tho following memorial is inscribed on the monument : " Tho legislature of Upper Canada has dedicated this monument to tho many civil and militaiy ser- vices of tho late Sir Isaac Brock, Kniglit, Com- mander of tho most honorable Order of the Bath, Provincial Lieutenant Governor and Major General, commanding his ^raj(?sty's forces therein. He fell in action on the loth of October, 1812, honored tJ If 102 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. I?; I* m f'ii and beloved by those whom ho governed, and d^ plored by his Sovereign, to whoso services liis lifo bad been devoted. His remains aro deposiiod in this vault, as is also his aid-do-carap, liieutenant Colonel John M'Donald, who died of his wounds, the 14th of October, 1812, received tho day before in action." Fort Niagara, seven miles below, (American side,) stands in the angle made by the eastern bank of the river and the southern shore of Lake Onta- rio. It is in the form of a triangle : one side com- mands the river, and Fort George on the oj>posite bank ; another faces the lake ; tho third is to defend the plain in the rear. From the light-house, the view of the lake and the opposite shore is only lim- ited by the power of the human vision. Directly opposite is Fort Massissaga; a little above is old Fort George ; just below is Newark, burned by Gen- eral McClure in 1813; directly across the Jake is the city of Toronto; to the west is Burlington Heights. If this old fort* could speak, it would tell of the battles fought, the victories won, and a tale of intrigues and horror, that, even at this re- moved distance, thrills even the stoutest nerves. It was built by the French, 1725; passed into the hands of the British by the conquest of Canada; • This is the place where the celebrated Mr. Morgai (a free mafion) -was confiDed aftar his abduction. NORTHERN TOUR. 103 surrendered by thorn to United States, 1706; t^ken and burned by the British, 1813; and surrendered again to the Americans on the restoration of peace. Fort George, or Newark, is directly opposite. The village was burnt during the hist war; which event was followed by the burning of several fron- tier villages on ihe American shore, aa retaliatory. Fort George, near the village, is the most prominent, nnd perhaps the only object of interest presented. It is in a state of tolerable preservation, and has generally, since the war, been occupied as a gai'rison, by a small number of British soldiers. Toronto, the greatest commeicial city in Upper Canada, is on an arm of Lake Ontario, thirty-six miles from the mouth of Niagara River. It affords one of the best harbors in the world ; a thousand ships of the line can ride hero in perfect safety. It is one of the most independent military posts in the province. Two or three regiments of soldiers are usually stationed here. The Parliament House, the governor's residence, and many other buildings are fine specimens of architecture: population 30,000. Daily lines of steamboats cross to Hamil- ton, Niagara, and down the lake to Kingston, Mon- treal (fee. The first place the boat touches at, after l€a\ing Toronto, is Port hope, sixty-five miles. It is a small town 9% it^ Cfiuzdy side, situated on a river of the same 104. EVERY MAN III3 OWN GUIDE. lU-i I ■ J 'J I I a!..' 1 H: 1 ''K 1' ' Iff ft: name. Tlio water-power is very consideraLle. It ia one of tlie best harbors on the hike. CoBOURG is seven miles from Port Hope ; a small plac'^ and it would be diilicult to call it a seaport, for nothing of the kind indicates it; population al)Out 2000. A steamer runs from Toronto to the month of Genesee lliver, (American side,) and touches at Port Hoj^e and Cobouro-. The width of the lako at this point is eighty miles. Kingston contains 10,000 inhabitants, mostly French. It is near the outlet of Lake Ontai-io, one hundred and ten miles from Cobourof, and two hun- dred and tliirty-four from IsMagara h\x\\:. It is a strong, and one of the most important military posts in U})per Canada. The fort commands the entire entrance of the harbors and the navy-yard ; and next to Quebec it is undoubtedly the most impreg- nable fortress in North America. If the tourist has time, he would be amj)!^ repnid for spending a few hours, or a day heiT!, as there are many things to interest and instruct. The fort, navy -yard, mess- house, barracks, etc., can ail be viewed by apulyirg to the sheriff, or commandant of the station. About six miles below Kingston connnences the Tliou&Tind Islands; the largest is Long Island, thirty miles long. The most important cascades are the Lachlne lia2)ids nine miles above Montreal. The boat, like a trained !^ 1 NORTHERN TOUR. 105 Iti 13 a small seaport, )iilatioa mill of eh OS at ,lio lako raostl}' irio, one AVO 1 111 li- lt is a \ivy posts le eiitira rd ; and impreg- uiist has ig a few biii-i's to J, niess- ipnlying About liousTiud lies loiij. ! Hap id *, I trained ^rar-horsG, Gnt':^rs and passes tliroiigh tlieni like an arrow of light; nothing can be more grand and tor- ritie. The an:ainst bare rocks within a few foot of tou, th'it liave lifted their frowniniTf heads for a2:es above the enrar .1 waters, Bniiliiig at its power, and bidding defiance to its rage; but in a few moments yon are at tlie dock of Montreal. 'Visitors can take the cars at Lachine for I^Iontreal if they choose, or continue on board tho boat; one, in our opinion, is as safe as the other; fare tho same. Wo have passed so rapidly, v,'0 had not time even to note tho difterent places; between Kingston and !Nfontrcal, are Cananoque, Brockville, Prescott, Wil- liamsburg, Cornwall, Lancaster, Coteau du Lac; all small places of not much note, inhabited by English, L'ish, Scotch and Canadians. ?)? 11 f I* iJ {| I Is on an isl aid thirty miles long and six broad. It presents an imposiug appearance; it hes along the St. Lawrence nearly tliroe miles; a heavy ■wall sur- rounded it, but was thrown down by authority of government. Tho Hotel Dieu, is a huge mass of stone, erect'xl in 1644; about thirty nuns, unJer the direction of a superior, reside here; acts of benefi- cence and charity occupy their time. It contains ... cathedral, the English church, seminary, convent of hvi loa EVERY MAN 1118 OWN GUIDE. m I:' rv ill ..ft '1511' Recollets, and the sisters of Notre Dame ; the gen- eral hospital, convent of Gray Nuns, v/as erected in 1753, under the immediate supervision of a superior and nineteen nuns. There are many splendid pub- lic buildings; the new cathedral, for its capacious- ness, style, and the grandeur of its decorations, is not surpassed by any edifice of a similar character, in America. Nelson's monument, the museum, college, parade ground, are all objects of interest, and at- tract the attention of the visitor. A ride round the mountains of Montreal is most delightful ; they are seven hundred feet above the level of the river, which sweeps its angry waters, in wild and tumult- uous fury post you. The tourist can visit the nun- neries, and all the important places, by having a citizen to accompany him, or procuring a pass from the chaplain or commandant of the different stations. The principal rapids before you reach '.lontreal, are the Longue Sault, the Cedars,* and the cascades of St. Louis; they are nine miles in length, and are passed in less than twenty minutes, (about twenty- eight miles per hour.) • It was at. the rapids of the Cedars that General Am- herst's brigade of three hundred and fifty men, on attempt- ing to descend in hoats, for the purpose of invading Canada, wero all lost, owing to the inexperience and bad management of the pilot ; not a soul survived. The first intimation the citizens of Montreal had of the invasion, wu the dead bodies ficmting past the town. NORTnEIlN TODR. 107 We will now invite the tourist to accompany us ti Quebec ; distance from Montreal is one hundred and eighty miles. Splendid steamers ply between the two cities twice a day. If we take the evening' boat, which leaves immediately on the arrival of passengers from the lake, we shall arrive at Quebec about seven or eight in the morning. We first pass from Montreal, a foit on St. Helen's Island ; we then enter the rapids of St. Mary. Vemess, on the south side of the St. Lawrence, sixteen miles from the city,' is a place of considerable resort on account of the springs. At William Henry, or the Three Rivers, one hundred and ten miles from Montreal, the St Lawrence is divided by two small islands into three branches, at the mouth of the St. Maurice. About fifteen miles up this river, are the Falls of Shawen- negame, of one hundred and twenty-five feet per- pendicular descent. Seven miles below the Three Rivers, are, Richelieu Rapids; the river is no* mile wide, and rushes with great velocity. We are now approaching the Gibraltar of Amer- ica. The towers and lofty spires of this famed city, situated on a soHd rock three hundi'ed and fifty feet high, bursts upon the view. Cape Diamond, the Plains of Abraham one and a half miles from Que- bec, Point Levi on a high, precipitous rock to thd right — and here we are at last ^,': i I If', I. 108 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. B I'!' I'il ■1.1 5,1 [1. u r m Q i| e b e Is situated oii a lilgli point of land, formed by tlio coiitlucnco of tbe St. Lawrence and St. Cliarles. Tlio city is divided into two portion!*, called the up- per and lower towns. The npper pait, the im])rcg- naltle fortress, is reached by five gates ; on the side toward the St. Lawrence thei'e is only one way to enter the city, and tliat is tlirough Prescott gate; through th's gate the commercial transactions of the city are carried on. Pal:ice gate leads to the Ash- ley Barracks; St. Louis gate opens to the plains of Abraham, where Wolfe and ^Montgomery fell. If we have time we Avill visit the catholic church; it is open at all hours of the day. Among the pic- tures are, the Confession ; the apostle Paul in his ex- tatic vision; the Saviour ministered unto by the angels; the flight of Joseph and Mary; the Pic- deemer and the cross; the nativity of Christ; the Saviour outraged by the soldiers; and the day of Pentecost. The monument erected to the memory of V/olfe and Montcalm, sixty-eight feet higli, v>-ith two Latin inscriptions, luis its attractions. The nun- nery and church occupy a space of eight acres, in- closed by a high wall of stone; the inmates are, one superior, foity-tive aspirants, and nine novices; they are more strict than any other con» :nt in Can- ada. Persons of high distinction only, are permitted to exrmirio the domestic arrangements of this place; mmmnf mmmnF "P^P b *^ o ii: ;ffl '-■{IBt NORTUERN TOUR. 109 but on application to the Chaplain, strangers gener- ally get p«i-mission. There are the paintings of some of the popes; the birth of Emmanuel; the Saviour showing his heart to the religeuses; the Saviour taken down from the cross; a carero of Christians captured by the Algerines; Lewis XIII king of France. Chapel of the Hotel Dieu. In the convent the sisterhood reside — one superior, thirty-five religi- euses, four novices, and one postulate — every thing in order. But we must not dwell long here; we have other scones to \lsit, then hasten back to Montreal and Saratoga. Falls of Montmorenci ai-e eight miles from Quebec — a good caniiigc-road and delightful ride; pei-pendicular height of the Falls two hundred and forty feet; width, one hundred. They are beautiful and grand, impressing the mind with sentiments of awe and sublimity. When viewed from below, this mighty cascade is resplendent with all that can be realized, by the river pouring its angi-y waters, into the dai-k, deep and gloomy precipice. No part of these Falls, however, are as gi-and, sublime or ter- rific, as the Center Fall, or Cave of the Winds at Niagara; after having viewed them from the upper window of the mill, we cross the bridge, and passing along under the brow of a high hill, we are sud- denly directly in front of the whole cataract. Here^. T 110 EVERY MAN ffiS OWN GUIDE. in trio opinion of tlio wnter, is decidedly tlio best view wo bavo o^ tbis wonderful fall. From tbo top of tbis bill, Quebec, witb its lofty towers, foitlfica- tions, sblpping, tbe St. Lawrence rolling toward tbo ocean, Point Levi, Angel Garden, and many otber points of interest are to bo seen. Tbrco bundred and sixty miles below Quebec, at tbo nioutb of tbo St. Lawrence, tbo river is one bundred and fifteen miles wide, pouring its waters into tlio Gulf of SL Lawrence, (tbree bundred and fifty miles long, and one bundi'ed and fifty broad,) by tbreo diilerent outlets. On returning to Quebec, we will pass tbo Loretto Indian Villtige — tbe distance is about tbe same. We will now step on boaid tbe morning boat, wbich "will land us in Montreal in tbe eveninovf tho level of CoiiiK'cticut Kiver, li.ia been eaitiujUcd by ciigiuoerd as lullows: Motnit W:isliini;ton Mf)?} feet. Lloiiiit AdaiiiH r).'}Hi " Mount Jcll't-'r.son o^lilJ " Mount Monruc 4!m " Mount Quincy 4 171 " From, the top of M(juiit Washington, tho Allantic Ocean is seen in all its boundless majesty, illimitable to tho power of human vision. Having made this short digression from the cor- rect route to Saratoga, -sve will return and commeuco our travels from Rouse's Point. Tlie villan;e of Plattsuurg is on tho Avest sido of Lako Cham})lain, at tho mouth of tho Saranac River, twenty -seven miles from Piouse's Point. It is memorable for the celebr.ated victories achieved in front of tho tower between the British and American forces both on laud and water. Commodore Mc- Donongh and Macomb, (Americans,) gained a complete triumph over George Provost and Com- modore Downie, (British,) in tho war of 1 8 1 2. Tlie Americans were at anchor in the bay, and awaited, in awful suspense, the arrival of tiie British fleet, which sooon hove in sight. On the morning of the 11th of September, 1814, the roar of a single can- non came booming ever tho waters; this was tha NORTHERN TOUR. 115 '4U'i\i\\ for a fV(Mioi;il attack on land and water, and tlii5 hcots were soon comyiiiin-lcd in sad, terrillc htrif<3, Tlie number of British eiig:i;;(id under 8ir Georgo Provost was 14,000; of the Americans under Geneial Macoml), only oOOO; but, Spartan-liko, (ivcry American was determined to die b_^ Lis colors, ratiier tliati surrender, and tlio stripes and the tiars waved in triumpli over the heads of the free and the biave. The loss of the Lriti.sh was 2500 men, besides bajxgago and ammuuitiou; that of the Amer- icans coi].sideia]>Iy less. EuKLiNGTOX, as ii diverging point of the rail- roads, is situated on tho east side of Lako Cliam- jtlain, twenty-live miles southerly from Piattsbiirg. This IS a fine New England vill.ijr * which has its attractions to tho visitor seeino: it for the first time. From ]]urliiigton to Whitehall is seventy-five miles — the terminus of r.teamboat na\igation on tho south- ern point of Lako Champlain, sevonty-threo miles north of Albany. From "Whitehall to Saratoga, (railroad,) thirty-nine miles. Visitors wishing to pjuss through L.'ike Georgo, on their way to the Springs, stop at Ticonderoga ; this route will bo described in another place; at present we will pursue our course direct; cars leave AVh it chall every morning on the an-ival of tho Lake Champlain boat", and reach Saiatoga Springs in time for dinner. Ml i'L ■ i 1 il;.' l|; < fi' >' i!'i, i «■*. (i i J t'! I I 1.1 t I f. 116 XVEBT ION mS OWN QUIDS. The intermediate points and distances are as follows : i, From Whitehall to Fort Ann 11—11 Sandy Hill 10—21 ! Fortville 7—28 Milton 4—32 Saratoga 7—39 Saratoga Springs, This place of fitohionable resoii, from all parts of the world, has attained great celebrity from the medicinal properties of its waters. They he m 43 degrees 10 minutes north latitude, and 73 1 degrees west longitude from Washington, on a line directly east from ' Niagara Falls. The Springs immediately in the vicinity of Saratoga, are twelve in number; those most frequented are the Congress, the Iodine or Waltien, Putnam's Congress, the Monroe, the Hamilton, the Flat Rock, the High Eock, the Columbian and the Washington. A new spring, possessing, it is said, great medicinal proper- ties, was discovered in 1339; it is of a brackish taste, and not as pleasant as many others. The ten iSprings are a little north ci the village, and are justly celebrated, and a place of great resort Con- gress Spring was first discovered in r702; though the Indians knew, and held thorn in high veneration, Icrg before the white man markc . the soil. It is at the south end of the village; it was seen issuing ill ' -I ! f 'I i li I pi I t IB ^ pi ' 'il ^ ;| ;. m THE CAV£ OF THE V^IND^ KOBTHERK TOUR. 117 ^ ! i! I from the crevice'of a rock about fifteen feet from its present location. Here it boiled up, and its water?, sparkling in the sunbeam, continued to flow, until art V3gan to lay its plastic hand upon the works of na- ture, in the shape of improvements; the spring re- tired back upon its fountain, and nearly ceased to flow ; but collecting its energies, it soon broke out again near where it is now. There is a deep tube sunk into this spring, fifteen feet long, which efiect- ually screens it from sand, sediment and fresh water that might be oozing through the rocks. Doctor Steel, one of the most celebrated chemists of the age, says, "a gallon of water which he analyzed, contained the following substances: tiz, chloride of sodium, three hundred and eighty -five grains ; hy- driodate of soda, thirty-one and a half grains ; bi- carbonate of soda, nearly nine grains; bicarbonate of magneaia, nearly ninety-six grains ; carbonate of lime, a little more than ninety-eight grains ; carbo- nate of iron, upwards of five grains; silex, one and i half grains; carbonic acid gas, Chree hundred and f^.even cubic inches; atmospheric air, seven cubic inches." Perhaps there is no spot on the globe where we can se« a greater diversity of character, than at the Congress Spring; the halt, the gay, the giddy, the blind, the aged, the decrepit and the beautiful are crowding on to this Siloam, expecting to lie healed from all their infirmitiefv of gratify the "■f I i lii i fi ( !i ; :' f 118 EVERT MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. eye ly seeing the fashion of the four quarters of the globe. Very few persons, I think, relish this water when first tasted, but habit familiarizes, and we soon become fond of it. The Iodine was dis- corered in 1838, near the High Rock Spring. The water is remarkably pure, sparkling and j)ungent^ but r~ imuch less of iron. Professor Emerson says, "one g 1 of this water contains muriate of soda, one Imndred and thirty-seven grains; carbonate of lime, twenty-six grains ; carbonate of iron, one grain ; carbonate of magnesia, seventy-five grains; carbo- nate of soda, two grains; hydriodate of soda, or iodine, three and a half grains; carbonic acid gas, three hundred and thirty cubic inches; atmospheric air, four inches. Though this spring has not been much visited until of late, yet it bids fair to equal many of its neighbors, and doubtless will hold a high rank among the fountains of health. A few rods from this is a very strong sulphur spring, which is used extensively in some cases. Putnam's Con- gress is near the Hamilton Spring. Here its heal- ing watere flowed for years unnoticed, but it is now popular and much frequented. The High Rock Spring is nearly three-fourths of a mile north of the Congress. The rock out of which this spring boils is a curiosity; nine feet diameter, five high. The particles of sand, formed by some chemical process, were once raised by the NORTnERN TOUR. 119 action of the water below, and instantly flowed over the top. The aperture is nine inches. The water does not flow over the summit as formerly, but rises within two feet of the top. This may be attributa- ble to the fact, that it has found a passage between the decayed rock, and the loose earth out of which it was formed. Between the Iodine in the upper village, and the Washington in the lower, are most of the mineral spnngs in which this place abounds. No chemist, as yet, has been enabled to discover ihe causes which have produced these wonderful results. Some say it is the i-esiilt ot some " great laboratory," but where this miglity worki^hop is, or what is its process of working, is a mystery. It will be unnecessary to en- large upon the many and convenient bathing-houses erected at neai-ly all these s])rings, for the conven- ience and heallli of the visiter. It is said by those whose opinion is entitled to respect, that the prop- erties of the waters, both of Saratoga and Ballston Spa, are noarl}'' the same, varying only as to the quantities of the different articles held in solution. They are called by the chemists acidulous saline, and acidulous chalybeate; of tb : former, are the Con- gress, Iodine, Monroe, Putnam's Congress, the Ham- ilton and High Rock at Saratoga; and of the latter, are the Columbian, Flat Rock, and Washington' at Saratoga, and the Old Spring, and Sans Souci at 8 i I 130 BTERT MAli filS OWN GUIDl. \ I'. :leasure, which is seen from the head of the lake ; the best view of the 124 EVERY MAN His OWN GUIDE. W I lake, in our opinion, is near the remains of old Fort George. Here, General Burgoyne made a depot of bis military stores for some time in the revolution- ary war. Here are our friends we left at Ticonder- oga about a week since They have enjoyed fine sport upon the waters of this limpid lake. There w a small, but very neat steamer which pli<'8 daily from the head of Lake George, (Caldwell,) to the foot, connecting ;vith the steamers on Lake Champlain. From where the boat lands to Ticondeniga is three miles. Carriages are always in readiness. The boat returns every evening. Length of the lake is thirty-six miles. Fourteen miles from Caldwell, is Tongue Mountain. The Narrows commence here ; about seven miles long, one and a half miles wide Five hundred and fifty feet of line have been let down without finding bottom. Black Mountain, half way down the lake, is on the east side. It is ascertained by actual measurement to be 2200 feet high. A short distance from this is an exhibition of mountain sceneiy, unsui-passed on this continent. The rolling appearance of the mountain — the deep and almost impenetrable caverns that yawn out before you at every step; the wild, the beautiful and ter- rific grandeur of th6 whole place, combine to fill the mind with solemn awe and admiration. Solitude holds her empire here, undistui bed by the convul- sions that agitate the world ; the fall of empires or i I NORTHERN TOUR. 125 kS tliG ruin of kinirdoins is alike iiulicedcd and uu- knowii. Siibbatli-diiy Point is twenty-four miles from the hoad of the lake, on the west side. Dur- ing the I'rencli war, about three hundred and fifty Englisli landed hero on Sabbath morning. They were iTi.s(antly surrounded by the Indians and every soul to a man, i)erished by the tomahawk and scalp- ing knife — hence the name. In three miles we pjLss a small island called the Scotch Jionnet; three and a half miles below, on the west shore, we ap- proach the city of Hague, composed of two houses and a saw-mill; this is the widest part of the lake, viz.,' four miles. Rogers' Slide is three miles further down; here. Colonel Rogci-s, an inveterate foe to the Indians in the French war, was forced by tlie savages, in the winter, over a smooth rock two hun- dred feet high, on an angle of thirty degi-ees. He slid down with the velocity of light, and landed safely on the ice below. Anthony's Nose opposite, by drawing a little on the imagination, will be found similar to one of the same name on the Hudson. Prisonei-s' Island is two miles further; prisoners were confined here during the French war. Lord Howe's Point is directly west ; ho landed upon thia spot but a short time before the battle at Ticonde- roga, at which he was killed. He was brother to Lord How^e, who commanded the British forces at ^Philadelphia, in tie revolutionary war. One mile 120 EVERT MAJf Ills OWfC OUIDK. m further, an«l tlio bout stops; lioro is the laiuling and outlet of Luke George. Three inilo» tVoui tin- landing is TicoNDEROOA, the far-famed place, memorable for its thousand daring exploits, and bold achieve- ments. Mount Indepetidunce, with '\\a ruins, is here. Mount Defiance, seven hundred and fifty feet high, looks down in frowning contempt upon the world below. Here General Burgoyne lodged his artillery in 1777, and here the Americans were compelled to evacuate Ticonderoga. Many of the old walls, though mouldering in gloomy silence, are still to be seen ; the maijazines of this oKl fort are nearly en- tire; the walls, two hundred feet above the level of Lake Champlain, are still standing. A subterra- neous passage leads from the south-west corner of the fort, about thirty rods long, through which the celel)rat(>d Colonel Allen made his way, and took a British oflicer while in bed; when asked by what authority he did it, he re))lied, "by the authority of the cHiat Jehovah and the Continental Connrress." There aie several old foils and fortifications in this vicinity still to be seen; the walls of one near the lake are sixty feet high. As early as 1758, General Aborcronibie, with two thousand men, at- tacked Ticonderoga with great skill and bravery, but wns repulsed with the loss of his entire araiy. The Fiench abandoned this position to the En;j;lisb II i I NORTHERN TOUB. 127 in 1759. Colonel Ethan Allon, whose indomitable cournge has nevor been surpassed since the days of Rome, took Ticonderoga by storm in 1775. In 1777 it was abandoned. General Burgoyne pur- sued the American foi-ce as far as Whitehall and to ' Fort Ann, which soon resulted in the surrender of his entire army to General Gates — one of the most glorious epochs in the revolutionary struggle, giving to the colonies a foothold, a permanence and a standing, which never for a moment has been shaken. The banner was thrown to the breeze, and waves in triumph over the heads of the 1 oe and the brave. "We must now leave our fnends and return to the Falls to accompany another party via Lake Ontario, (American side.) We prefer the route from Sara- toga, via Auburn, Geneva, Canandaigua, Batavia» BufFjilo, (fee, because it is the most expeditious. Distance from the Springs to the Falls by cars is three hundred and twenty-nine miles. By this route we reach Niagara in twenty-two hours. As we pass we notice Ballston Spa, seven miles from Saratoga ; the waters, according to Doctor Steel, are nearly similar to those of Saratoga. The first spring discovered is in a valley, surrouuded by sand- hills, on a branch of Kayaderoseras creek, inclosed by an iron railing; New Washington Spring is but a few rods distant; the Sans Souci Spring is the I it ; 'i >.i 128 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. most frequented. The Wasliington Foiintaiu flowed over the surface for mary years, but iu ) S21 disap- peared entii'cly. Low's Spring, Park bj^i ing, and several othera in the n'^ighborhuod, ^\ere much vis- ited in foiTQcr yeai-s, but hitterly are measurably deserted. Schenectady, fourteen miles iroin Albany, and twenty-two from Saratoga, lies on the Llohawk liivcr. It was destroyed by the Indians iu IGOOj and nearly all of its inhabitants penshed by tho tomahawk ; Union collegG is well endowed ; popuhv- tion, 7000. Amsterdam, sixteen miles west, on the north side of tho Mohawk; tho Erie Canjd passes througa this village. Fonda, ten miles from Amsi'^rdam, is a small place. Johnstown, four miles north, was tho former residence of Sir William Johnson. Palatine Bridge, eleven miles, crosses the Mo- hawk to Canajoharie ; cars leave the latter place for the Catskill Mountains. Fort Plain, three miles further, was originally settled by Germans, who, like their neighbors, suf- fered much in the revolutionary war. Little Falls, seventeen miles further; the Erie canal and Buflfalo railroad, at an immense expense, pass tlie south part of the ^'illage ; a place of consid- erable commerce from the Erie canal and its hydi-aulic power. The mountain scenery is grand and sublime. fi, NORTHERN TOUR. 129 Herkimer is seven miles from Little Falls, on the West Canada creek, on which the far-famed Trenton Falls are situated. The creek enters the Mohawk about half a mile west of the villaofe. Utica, fourteen miles from Herkimer and fifteen from Trenton Falls, is on the south side of the Mohawk. No city in the interior of New York possesses greater facilities for commerce than Utica. It is located on the site of old Fort Schuyler; pop- ulation 15,000; its long line of canal-boats, together with the seven trains of cars that pass through the place from the west, render it a place of great importance. Trenton Falls, as has been remai'ked, are fifteen miles from Utica; they are on the West Canada creel:, twenty-two miles from its confluence with the Moh-iwk River at Herkimer. Visitors usually prefer taking carriages at Utica; going and return- ing will occupy nearly a day. There is no such terrific grandeur and awful sublimity here as at Ni- agara ; yet they are beautiful, and in many respects Bublime ; their effect upon the mind of the beholder is deeply impressive, and he long retair": the vivid impressions enstamped upon his r^cmory. The tourist ought, by all means, to visit them; they must be seen before they can be appreciated. The fall of the rapids for two miles before it en- ters the basin is sixty -six feet; depth of the ravine, ill 130 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GCIDE. ii. m m '\Uor is spacious and commamllnnr; tho entrance is exceedingly nar- row, scarcely admitting two ships abre:ist. It is so strongly fortified, that any hostile ship in attemptr ing to land, would bo blown out of tho water; population, 100,000. Boston uill bo retained in tho recollections of Americans, -while virtue, liberty and })atriotism re- main. Tho hallowed associations, that linger aroimd this sacred spot — tho glittering steel of England's best sons, as they marched with a firm and steady tread to tho attack on Bunker Hill ; tho flames of Charlostown, as they rolled in red suigos to the sky; tho awful stillness of tho heroic band in the little foii precursory to tho coming storm; tho lieights crowded with anxious spectators, witnessing in breath- less silence the doubtful contest; tho memory of 140 EVERT MAN DIS OWN GUIDE. h those wlio fell, more durable than the monuments of brass or marble; the roar of the artillery from the bay — all united to make it a scene awfully grand and terrific, impossible for the most vivid imagination to portray. The British were permitted to approach within less than a hundred yards of the fort ; not a shot from the Americans, not a muscle moved — the silence of death held its empire over the little for- tress ; but in an instant the storm burst ; flash suc- oeediiig flash, the iion tempest sweeps; heaping man; horse and car, in one undistinguished ruin; twice, the peals of musketry and the saber's ch'ish drove the enemy back ; but at last they succeeded in gaining the heighl- after the ammunition was all exhausted, and the cry rang through the fort, "powder! powder! a world for powder ! " We close our remarks by an extract from the speech of Hon. Daniel Webster, on the erection of the moniiment. Jql'poSiJS of f[)e 1)Tor)(|h)ei)f or\ 3i|r)Iie^ i(lll. "Let it not be supposed that our object is to per- petuate national hostility, or even to cherish a mere military spirit It ia higher, purer, nobler. We consecrate our work tc the spirit of National Inde- pendence, and we wish that thj light of peace may rest upon it forever. We rear a memorial of our NORTHERN TOUR. 141 oonviction of that uumeasured benefit T^hich has been conferred on oiir land, and of the happy influ- ences vfh'ick have been produced by the same events, on the general interests of mankind. We come, as Americana, to mark a spot ^vhich must be forever dear to us and posterity. We wish, that whosoever, in all coming lime, shall turn his eye hither, may beliold that the place is not undistinguished where the first great battle of the revolution was fought. We wish, that this structure may proclaim the mag- nitude and importance of that event to every class and every age. We wish, that infancy may learn the purjDose of its erection from maternal lips, and withered age may behold it, and be solaced by the recollections Avhich it suo-orests. We wish, that labor CO ' may look up here, and be proud in the midst of its toil. We wish, that, in those days of disaster, which, as they come upon all nations, must be expected to come upon us also, desponding patriotism may turn its eye hither, and be assured that the foundations of our national power still stand strong. We wish, that this column, rising toward heaven among the pointed spires of so many temples dedicated to God, may contribute also to produce, in all minds, a pious feeling of dependence ai 1 gratitude. We wish, finally, that the last object on the sight of him who loaves his native shore, jmd the first to ghdden his U2 KVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. wlio revisits it, miiy bo something v.liieli sLall ro mind liim of tlie liberty and glory of his country Let it rise, till it meets the sun in his coming ; let the earliest light of morning gild it, and parting day linger and i)lay upon its summit." !. '"» aoeS'ij or) f(}e locj. On the morning of July 19th, 1853, a great excitement was created by the discovery of a man on a log in the rapids, midway between the main shore and Bath Island, and about forty yards below the bridg'3 which leads to the toll-gato on the island. The circumstances as near as are known of the way ho got there, are those: This man, Avery, and another man, they being in the employ of Mr. Brown, boating sand above the Falls about two miles, got into a boat at ten o'clock at night to cake a pleasure sail. The next morning Mr. Avery was discovered on the log above men- tioned, which being reported, called thousands of people to the spot to see the unfortunate man, and to do what thov could to rescue him. In the first place a small tx>at was let down, but it filled with water, and sunk befjre it reached him. By this time a life-boat from Buffalo had reached the spot, and w;i3 lowere I into the stream, which reached the mmm AVERY ON THE LOG. 143 log he was on, passed by abovo it, capsized and sunk, wliicli wss the last of that. The next, a Bniall boat was let down, which reached the spot all right, but the ropo got entangled under the log, and could not bo got loose, so that boat was use- dess. Another plan w;i3 tried: a raft was let down to him all rigiit, and he got on it, and the raft was moved toward Bath Island as far as it could be, for the ropes got entangled in the rocks, and stuck fast. Then another boat was let down to him, to take him froni the raft ; but as the boat reached the raft, the water dashed the boat against tlio bow of the raft, which gave it a sudden jog, and Avery not using the means that were prepared for his safety, viz., ropes for him to hold on to, or tie himself with, stood erect on the stern of the raft ; and as the boat struck, he fell off backward, and the rapid water carried liim over the Falls, at about six o'clock P. M., at which time the crowtl, (being about three thousand in number,) left the spot with slow and Bolcum slops for their homes, to think and talk of what had transpired. 144 TABLE OF DISTIKCES. n ills' I ! TAUIiE OF DISTANCES 05 TOE GREAT WESTERN RAIL ROAD, CANADA. From Niagara Falls to DETROIT, PLACB. MILES Niag-ara Falls---- Thon.l.l 9 St. Catharine's 11 Beams ville 2'2. Qmashy 27 Stoney Creek 37 Hamilton 43 Dundas 41> Flamborough 52 Fairchild's G2 Paris 72 Princeton 79 Woodstock 91 Beachville 9G InfifersoU lOO Dorchester 109 London :..ii9 Lobe 129 Ekfrid 139 Wardsville 155 Chatham 183 Baptiste Creek 197 Windsor. 229 Detroit***-*- 330 From Detroit to NIAGARA FALLS. riACG. MILBg Detrcit Windsor liaptiste Creek 32 Chatham 46 Wardsville 74 Ekfrid 90 Lobo 100 London n^ Dor Chester 120 IngersoU 129 Beachville 133 Woodstock 138 Princeton 150 Paris 157 Fairchild's 167 Flamborough 177 Dundas 180 Hamilton i86 Stoney Creek 192 Grimsby 202 Beamsville 207 St. Catharine's 217 Thorold 220 Niagara FaJJfl....239