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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, 11 est fllm6 d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut n»n bas, an prenant le nombre d'Images n^cedudire. Les diagrammes suivants lllustrent la mdthode. i by errata med to nent , une pelure, I fapon d e. i 1- ? 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 !3^ ■^•"^ 1 ,' *(.. ''^ - i -1 ti'^ }*I)U^ _-.-,,.. .„„—-■., a » ~ ' ; -' " i' » wr * * 'ff *" —'.. k-\ ■T I V ■N -I V :M ! Kf i i • .| r' ^r *'■ ^:''i'. n 1 IS assi o>i J ! -^ ^■■i ;^ijB!ffl^^. ' . ?ftCWS' ji»r«-'.; r-i-.ssJSK--:-;-'-:s=£S3S3: ;l ,!» i ■'>■■ ;1 ■ t ;t 5 A J.Bu!.tta. dtl. £*urtii LUhea llt'iiC'tt if OLHuUl^ PR HAWKINS'S PICTURE OF QUEBEC; MITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. QUEBEC : PRINTED von THE PROPRIETOR BY NEIIJSON & COWAN. 1834. f . 'ijif H 39 Histori Entered according to Act of ProTincial Parlianjent in the Office of the Pro- I ^^ ^^ thoaotary, Quebec, 5ih August, (834. g bec— Croi: to S Entered, August 29tb« 1834, in the Office of the Clerk for t.ie Southern District M Pran of New- York. ■ ^*^**" i k ?' ■' i3> CONTENTS. Page. DEDICATION vii. Preface, i^* CHAPTER I. latroduction of the subject 1 CHAPTER II. Historical sketch of discovery, previous to the time of Jacques Cartier. — Madoc, Prince of Wales — Claim of the Norvveffians— Period of Modern Discovery — Co- lumbus — John and Sebastian Cabot — Voyaws ad mi Ihe Kin a TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE GENERAL f THE EARL OF DALHOUSIE, KNIGHT GRAND CROSS OF THE MOST HONORABLE MILITARY ORDER OF THE BATH, &C. &C. &C. My Lord, Iff When His late Majesty King George the [Fourth was graciously pleased to confer the honor )f Commander-in-Chief of his Armies in India, on ^our Lordship, the capital of the British dominions in North America hailed it, amidst regret for your leparture, as a proud mark of the Sovereign's (avor, uid approbation of your Lordship's long and ardu- >us administration of the Government of this p'lrt of [he King's dominions. '•II Vlll. Convinced, my Lord, that whatever relates to the renown of this important and interesting city will not be unacceptable to you, I beg leave to dedicate the following pages to your Lordship : they may serve to recall to your mind the portion of your valuable public life, passed in this quarter of the world, in which the honor of the King and the best interests of the Province were so conspicuously upheld by your Lordship. I have the honor to be. My Lord, Your Lordship's, Faithful and devoted Servant, ALFRED HAWKINS.! 47, St. Lewis Street, Quebec, November 10th, 1834. elates to the ; city will not dedicate the y may serve rour valuable bhe world, in best interests [y upheld by Servant, :D HAWKINS. PREFACE. Some delay has unavoidably taken place in the pub- lication of this work, but the subject is so full of interest that it was found impossible to confine it within the bounds originally intended, namely, a volume of two hundred and forty pages. With a desire, therefore, of embracing the most important historical facts connected with this city, I have availed myself of the valuable information which has been kindly afforded by several gentlemen conversant with the early history of this coun- try ; and I beg to express my acknowledgments to those gentlemen, and to the many friends who have taken an activ'^e interest in the progress of this work. I should be wanting, indeed, in justice, if I did not I here express how deeply sensible I am of the obliga- tions which I owe to A. Thom, Esquire, M. A. for the original Prospectus of this work, which has been duly estimated wherever it has been read ; and I es- Iteem myself particularly fortunate in having obtained the assistance of J. C. Fisher, Esquire, L. L, D., Iwho arranged and classified the various materials sub- litted to him, and from whose classical pen the Jfeatest portion of the following pages proceeds. A. H. 7 3. 4. 0, 6. 7. 1. View 2. Title pa Suffolk Castle { Hope-G Dallioii! Officers St. Joh Prescoti St. Le Palace-( Parliam Marine Quebec PLATES. DIRECTION TO THE BINDER. 1. View of Quebec from Beauport to face title page. J2. Title page, Engraved Plate and Great Seal. 3. Suffolk Seal to face Page 118 k Castle St. Lewis do 128 h. Hope-Gate do 152 16. Dalhousie-Gate do 156 Officers Barracks do 158 St. Johns-Gate do 165 Prescott-Gate do 170 tL St. Lewis-Gate do 172 Palace-Gate do 247 Parliament House do 253 Marine Hospital do 261 Quebec Harbor do 291 !l^i Th] the Bi on the the fro Great a camf with ei the Fri of Gn Fortre ture ar characl and so terest its glo quent wrestec British the str NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC ; WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. CHAPTER THE FIRST. The year 1759, so remarkable for the successes of the British arms, and which reflected such lustre up- on the expiring reign of George the Second, found the frontiers of Canada the chief seat of war between Great Britain and France. The successful result of a campaign, planned with singular skill, and executed with equal valour and conduct, placed the whole of the French possessions in America under the standard of Great Britain. The capture of the city and Fortress of Quebec, remarkably strong both by na- ture and art, was an achievement of so romantic a character, so distinguished by chivalrous enterprise, and so fraught with singular adventure, that the in- terest attending it still remains undiminished, and its glorious recollections unfaded. By the subse- quent capitulation, a most important Province was wrested from the French, and reduced under the British sceptre— the population of which, fostereu by the strength and generosity of British protection, ill ! ■A mv m 2 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, has grown from seventy thousand to half a million of souls, enjoying a degree of rational liberty and happiness unequalled on the surface of the globe. Not less in an historical than in a national point of view, the battle of the Plains of Abraham calls up the proudest feelings of patriotic exultation. The various advantages derived by the empire from the accession of so large a territory, are not more obvious to the statesman, than the virtue and heroism of the youthful leader of the expedition, and the bravery of his troops, are themes of just pride to the lover of his country. Young in years, but mature in expe- rience, Wolfe possessed all the liberal virtues, in addition to a perfect, an enthusiastic knowledge of the military art ; with a sublimity of genius always the distinguishing mark of minds above the ordinary level of mankind. His glorious and lamented death in the arms of victory — together with that of his gallant antagonist, Montcalm, by whom nothing was omitted in the power of an able and zealous officer to perform, — have thrown a classic celebrity around the subject of the present volume, and render Que- bec an object of attention and curiosity to the intel- ligent of every country. Whatever may be the future destiny of this re- markable city, whether as the Metropolis of the flourishing Colonies of British North America, the Royal Standard of Great Britain shall continue to "wave for ages over the battlements of its Citadel — quod sit Diis visum ! — or whether in the course of time a new and independent empire shall spring up on this Continent, allied to and connected with Great Britain by the remembrance of past benefits, the enjoyment of free institutions and of reciprocal mercantile advantages, Quebec, either on the ground f: of its its p maim weste noge BEC, ( Lawn with insens ieave physic feeling bygon While nished wliile, lied th< by a I tenants from tl] streng civilisa not of chiefly ed witl plunge to the civilisa ligion. tribes supposi tion wll tives earliesti amiabh WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 8 • a million iberty and the globe, ml point of m calls up tion. The re from the lore obvious roism of the ;he bravery the lover of ire in expe- l virtues, in ^ledge of the nius always the ordinary [lented death that of his . nothing was alous officer brity around render Que- to the intel- ly of this re- dpolls of the A.merica, the continue to f its Citadel the course of all spring up nnected with past benefits, of reciprocal on the ground of its ancient historic fame, its natural sublimity, or its political and commercial importance, must ever maintain a superior rank among the cities of the western world. Whatever may be thy future destiny, no generous stranger shall hereafter visit thee, Que- bec, or wander along the classic shores of thy Saint Lawrence, and not gaze on the prospect before him with unrepressed delight — no liberal mind shall be insensible to the beauties of thy locality — none shall leave thee without acknowledging the moral and physical grandeur of thy associations, and without feeling the soul elevated by the recollection of thy bygone glories, both of religion and of arms ! While history blushes for the cruelties which tar- nished the Spanish occupation of Hispaniolar — and while, in Mexico and Peru, Cortes and Pizarro sul- lied their glory, and moved the horror of Las Casas, by a war of extermination against the heathen tenants of the soil — here in Quebec was established from the earliest period at which the Colony acquired strength, an organized system for the conversion and civilisation of the Aborigines, by means of the Cross, not of the sword. Here peaceful pursuits were chiefly followed, and a friendly intercourse maintain- ed with the savages by means of zealous Priests, who plunged fearlessly into the trackless forest, imparting to the wild hunter the practical results of the arts of civilisation, and the holy inspirations of revealed re- ligion. The attachment of the French to the Indian tribes among whom they were thrown, may be justly supposed to have sprung from the hospitable recep- tion which the early settlers met with from the na- tives on their first coming to the land. The very earliest record, indeed, places them in the most amiable light ; and leads to the mortifying couclu- NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, H* ■'t f if ! sion, that Europeans, generally speaking, either never discovered the true methods of conciliation, or that they seldom retr-mbered them in practice. The incident alluded to o: '•red in the second voyage of Verazzano, in 15*25, and is to be found originally in Ramusio, Vol. III. p. 421. At the desire of Verazzano, a young sailor had undertaken to swim to land and accost the natives ; but when he saw the crowds which thronged the beach, he repented of his purpose, and although within a few yards of the landing place, his courage failed, and he attempted to turn back. At this moment the water only reach- ed his waist ; but overcome with terror and exhaus- tion, he had scarcely strength to cast his presents and trinkets upon the beach, when a high wave threw him senseless on the shore. The savages ran immediately to his assistance, took him up in their arms, and carried him a short distance from the sea. Great was his terror when, upon recovering his recollection, he found himself entirely in their power. Stretching his hands towards the ship, he uttered piercing cries, to which the natives replied by loud yells intended, as he afterwards found, to reassure him. They then carried him to the foot of a hill, stripped him naked, turned his face to the sun, and kindled a large fire near him. He was fully im- pressed with the horrible thought that they were about to sacrifice him to the sun : his companions on board, unable to render him any assistance, were of the same opinion. They thought, to use Verazzano's own words, " that the natives were going to roast and eat him." Their fears, however, were soon turned to gratitude and astonishment : the savages dried his clothes, warmed him, and showed him every mark of kindness, caressing and patting his white skin with duct poin show l^hus they ianti] iher bretli pensc for tl: the u sionai thems the F: exemj remai] A pro Ton V remna the F diorn, nion o and re tv^ho n( be wel lituate pital, c 8ie W( peacefi ground Claims ibered, |)ec to #trengt WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. npr, either iliation, or tice. The voyage of riginally in desire of to swim to le saw the jnted of his irds of the 3 attempted only reach- tnd exhaus- lis presents high wave ;'he savages him up in ice from the 1 recovering rely in their he ship, he tives replied ds found, to ) the foot of e to the sun, vas fully im- they were npanions on ice, were of Verazzano's ng to roast were soon the savages d him every is white skin with apparent surprise. They then dressed him, con- ducted him to the beach, tenderly embraced him, and pointing to the vessel, removed ^o a little distance to show that he was at liberty to return to his friends. Thus did the untutored Indians treat the first European I they had seen with true Christian charity — the phi- llanthropist laments to add, that it is doubtful whe- ther violence was not offered to the first of our red Ibrethren who fell into the power of the white dis- pensers of civilisation. The efforts of the Jesuits for the conversion and instruction of the savages — the universal kindness and benevolence of the Mis- sionaries wherever they succeeded in establishing themselv^es, perpetuated this friendly spirit towards the French among the neighboring Indians, so often exemplified in the annals of the country, and which remained after the cession of the Province in 1763. A proof of this feeling may yet be found in the Hu- ron Village and establishment of Lorette, where the Temnant of those Aborigines were protected by the French ; and where they survive at this day, diorn, it is true, of their ancient power and domi- nion over the forest, but still entertaining friendship and respect for, and receiving protection from those who now rule the land of their forefathers. It may be well questioned, whether an Indian settlement so lituated, under the very walls, as it were, of the ca- pital, can now be found in any province or part of iie western hemisphere. These are some of the peaceful and moral glories which throw such interest ground the history and locality of Quebec. As to her §laims to military renown, it need only be remem- >ered, that it has been the peculiar fortune of Que- )ec to be the arena of a conflict which affected the ^trength and influence of two of the most powerful A 2 6 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, '1i and highly civilised nations of the old world, Great Britain and France. Quebec is the only city on the North American Continent which has been re- gularly fortified, and which has resisted the sieges and assaults of disciplined troops. When it last fell, the whole French system of colonial empire fell with it — a system which, had it been followed with vigor equal to the conception, might have proved fatal to the interests of the English colonists — and a colonial empire which extended from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the mouth of the Mississippi, The result of this conflict, and the circumstances which achieved that result, render Quebec peculiarly inte- resting to everji true Briton ; while the conse- quences, so favorable to the liberty of the subject, and the full development of the resources of the co- lony, have converted the field of military defeat into a scene of civil triumph in the estimation of every loyal Canadian. To either race the ground is sa- cred- To the one, the Plains of Abraham are at once the Hastings and the Runnimede of the other. By our brethren of the Union, the site of Quebec cannot be visited without peculiar interest. The great event which consecrated the Heights of Abra- ham, while it for ever extinguished French domi- nion in America, established the security of the English colonists of that day, and eventually laid the foundation of the present gigantic republic. The scenic beauty of Quebec has been the theme of general eulogy. The majestic appearance of Cape Diamond and the fortifications — the cupolas and minarets, like those of an eastern city, blazing and sparkling in the sun — .the loveliness of the pa- norama — the noble basin, like a sheet of purest sil- ver, in which might ride with safety an hundred sail of th St. G side I with i moral —the teous frown i purple wliich d*oeii, siirpas! travelli ning i tp mini promoi ^Q pr from a legions unique stiinds, ai|d alo .^ WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. ►rid, Great ily city on IS been re- the sieges L it last fell, empire fell llowed with lave proved lists — and a ;lie Gulf of isippi. Tlie iances which juliarly inte- the conse- the subject, ;es of the co- -y defeat into :ion of every round is sa- )raham are at of the other. e of Quebec iterest. The ghts of Abra- Vrench domi- lurity of the entually laid .epublic. ;en the theme ippearance of -the cupolas city, blazing iS of the pa- of purest sil- hundred sail of the line — the graceful meandering of the River St. Charles — the numerous village spires on either side of the St. Lawrence — the fertile fields dotted with innumerable cottages, the abodes of a rich and moral peasantry — the distant Falls of Montmorency — the park-like scenery of Pointe Levi — the beau- teous Isle of Orleans — and more distant still, the frowning Cap Tourment, and the lofty range of purple mountains of the most picturesque forms which bound the prospect, unite to make a coup deceit, which, without exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed in any part of the world. If the scientific traveller, amid the sensations experienced on scan- ning the various beauties of the scene, should recall tp mind, in ascending the highest elevation of the promontory, that he is standing upon the margin of ijie primeval and interminable forest, extending firom a narrow selvage of civilisation to the Arctic legions, he will admit that the position of Quebec is unique in itself, and that in natural sublimity it atiinds, as to the cities of the continent, unrivalled, and alone. 1 a NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ft is ( asy 1 astei CHAPTER THE SECOND. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF DISCOVERY PREVIOUS TO THE TIME OF JACQUES CARTIER, Before we proceed to the descriptive portion of tWng- < our volume, it has been thought necessary to give a and it sketch of the progress of maritime discovery in this riea in part of the continent, with historical notices and ^neca recollections connected with the capital of British alK)ve. North America. The original volumes in which diitanc( the voyages of the discoverers, and the early annals tint the of the country are to be found, are not always easy tilt east of access by general readers ; many being contained t^se oi in scarce and costly works, or in the scattered frag- of'the ments of more recondite authorities. The present froin th| essay has therefore been compiled to furnish a com- The prehensive manual of the progress of civilisation in Mtdea the Province, as an appropriate introduction to the immediate object of this publication. Although this |j subject has been treated by various authors, whose books are familiar to the public, we trust that some new matter, or some facts placed in a novel point of view, will be found to repay the reader for the time -^ bestowed in the perusal of this chapter. « tThen If the existence of the New World, as it has fre- " the o| quently been called, from the late period of its dis- " ti vasi covery, was unknown to the Ancients, it would seem "^ipJu with some show of reason to have been not altoge- *%io loi ther unsuspected by them. From several passages iip a bo( WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 9 ID. VIOUSTO THE ive portion of savy to give a ico7ery in this 1 notices and Ltalof British mes in which le early annals pt always easy eing contained scattered frag- The present furnish a com- civilisation in oduction to the Although this authors, whose trust that some novel point of er for the time r. I, as it has fre- griod of its dis- it would seem een not altoge- everal passages t is certain that an idea was entertained, that it was asy to sail from the western coast of Spain to the astern shores of India. They had, however, no ea of the magnitude of the globe, and imagined ||iat a few days would be sufficient for such a llDyage. The existence of an immense continent intervening between their point of departure and the ^treme shores of India, was beyond their concep- "tfbn, as it was of the early European navigators. IDbe object of the first adventurers of whom any tMng certain has reached us, was a passage to India, aad it may be said that they stumbled upon Ame- lioa in their route. Aristotle, Strabo, Pliny and ^jtneca entertained the crude opinion mentioned i^ve. Strabo alone seems to have imagined the diltance between the two continents, when he says, itet the ocean encompasses all the earth ; that in tilH east it washes the coast of India, and in the west tftise of Africa and Spain, and that, if the vastness ofjthe Atlantic did not hinder, they might soon sail fttkn the one to the other upon the same parallel. The following remarkable passage is from the Mtdea of Seneca, the Tragedian : — ■f Venient annis Saecula seris, qiiibus Oceaniis Vincula rerum laxet, et inserts Pateat tell us, Tiphysqiie novos Detegat orbes, nee sit terris Ultima Thule. ** iThere will come a time in after ages, when ** Jthe ocean will loose the bonds of matter, and **% vast country will be discovered, and a second '^Tiphys will reveal new worlds, and Thule shall "|io longer be the extremity of the earth." And a book, ascribed to Aristotle, the Carthagi- 10 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, nians are stated to have discovered, far beyond the pillars of Hercules, an Island in the Atlantic Ocean, of great extent and fertility, watered by large and magnificent rivers, but entirely uninhabited. This enterprising people are said to have planted a colony there, which was afterwards recalled, owing to some political objection, which forbad distant colonization. The Tyrians are also said to have evinced some in- tention of occupying this Island, and were proceed- ing to carry their purpose into execution, when they were prevented by the jealousy of the Cartha- ginians. It was pretended by some writers that this Island was Hispaniola, by others, one of the Azores. The boldness of the Carthaginian naviga- tors is suflSciently authenticated ; and however we may be inclined to doubt the probability of their having ventured as far as the West Indies of mo- dern days, it is by no means impossible that they had acquired some imperfect notion of Islands and lands in the western hemisphere. One fact, how- ever, is clearly ascertained, that their belief in the existence of such Islands or continent did not induce any subsequent colony to go in search of them ; nor is there any reason to believe, that America received any portion of its early inhabitants from civilised Europe, prior to the close of the fifteenth century. We may here mention a curious passage in the lost writings of Cornelius Nepos, quoted by Pompo- nius Mela : " A king' of the Boii made Quintus " Metellus Celer then Proconsul of Gaul, a pre- " sent of some Indians who had been thrown by a " tempest on the coast of Germany." The Romans concluded from this circumstance, that coming, as these savages did, from India, it was practicable to make the tour of Asia and Europe round the north, WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 11 by traversing the imaginary ocean which, as they supposed, occupied the site of Siberia and of the north of Russia. I'his explanation cannot now be admitted ; but the fact still remains, that Indians, or dark complexioned people of some nation or other, actually reached the coast of Germany or Gaul, some time before the year of Rome, 694, the com- mencement of Caesar's conquests. In all probabi- lity, they were Esquimaux, either from Labrador or Greenland. The same circumstance again occurred in 1680 and 1684. In Wallace's Account of Ork- ney, it is mentioned that some Greenlanders arrived there in the kind of boats peculiar to them, which were preserved in the Church of Barra, and in the College Museum of Edinburgh. MADOC, PRINCE OF WALES. On the discovery of America by Columbur , seve- ral prior claims were attempted to be put in by dif- ferent nations, founded on tradition ; and stories were revived which had been well nigh consigned to oblivion. The claim advanced by the Welch merits relation, as having been made by a people o^' kin- dred stock with ourselves. Their tradition respect- ing the discovery of America is, that about the year 1170, one of their Princes, Madoc, son of Owen Guyneth, Prince of North Wales, sailed to the New World, and there established a colony of his coun- trymen. The cause of his emigration is stated to be this : — the sons of Owen disputed the division of their father's dominions, and Madoc fearing the consequences of the disunion, like another Teucer, chose to seek a new habitation in a foreign land, rather than to hazard the dangers of civil convulsion. 12 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, He is said to have steered due west, leaving Ireland on the north ; and thus to have arrived at an un- known country, the continent of America, on which he landed. He afterwards returned to Wales, and took • thence a second supply of people, but was no more heard of. The objections to this story are its improbability, and want of supporting evidence. The Welsh were at no period a naval people ; and in the age of Madoc, must have been ignorant of all navigation, but that of rivers and coasts. Jt should, however, be mentioned in justice to the claims of our Welsh fellow countrymen, that this tale was by no means invented after the real discovery of Ame- rica, in order to establish a fabricated title. Mere- dith Ap Rees, who died in 1477, a famous Welsh poet, composed an ode in honor of this Madoc, wherein was handed down the tradition, with an ac- count of his discoveries, several years anterior to the time of Columbus. Of the tradition itself there can be no doubt. Indeed, in an American publication a few years ago, we have seen it stated, in reference to this supposed voyage of Madoc, that a people quite distinct from the Aborigines, both as to language and physiognomy, had been lately discovered in Mexico, and were supposed to be descendants from the colony of Madoc. Their language was said to be somewhat similar to the ancient British, or Celtic ; and several Celtic words have also been traced in the Mexican tongue. The Celtic is undoubtedly one of the most ancient languages, and its roc ts may still be found in most of those of the civilised world, from the Persian to the Scottish, Irish and Welsh. A few words may have been adopted into the Mexi- can : it is indeed mentioned, by Vater, that he had found eighteen Celtic words in ten American Ian- i *^*, f! gui tho mo jan kin the dire and ers, nab ven & A tribe gula mos turie ihe the ^ very land ries ; short be su tinen turie! their In tl scrip! coast maux dimin WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 13 ng Ireland at an un- , on which Vales, and but was no ory are its evidence, eople ; and lorant of all It should, e claims of tale was by 'y of Ame- tle. Mere- nous Welsh this Madoc, with an ac- terior to the elf there can )ublication a reference to leople quite to language iscovered in Indants from was said to ih, or Celtic ; ten traced in undoubtedly Its rocts may alised world, and Welsh to the Mexi- that he had Imerican lan- guages. The traditions of the Ct^ltic nations, and those derived from them, have always been of the most marvellous quality — witness the fanciful Tro- jan origin of the first settler in Britain, Brutus, who kindly bestowed his name on the sea-girt Island ; and the derivation of the Irish Celts ^'rom positive and direct emigration of Egyptian, Phoenician, Greek and Milesian origin, under various imaginary lead- ers, all and several of whom, as well as an intermi- nable list of kings, are gravely set down in the veracious Chronicles of Eri. CLAIM OF THE NORWEGIANS. America must have been known to the barbarous tribes of Asia for thousands of years ; but it is sin- gular that it should have been visited by one of the most enterprising nations of Europe, nearly five cen- turies before the time of Columbus, without awaken- ing the attention of either statesmen or philosophers. The Norwegians, with far higher pretensions than the Welsh, founded their claim to the early disco- very of America on their well known voyages to Ice- land and Greenland in the tenth and eleventh centu- ries ; and having undoubtedly penetrated within so short a distance from the New World, they may fairly be supposed to have touched on some part of that con- tinent in their annual voyages for nearly three cen- turies, distinguished as the old Northmen were by their enterprise, hardihood and love of adventure. In the year 1001, Biorn is said, in Icelandic manu- scripts of good reputation, to have landed on the coast of Labrador, where he met with the Esqui- maux, whom he called Skraelmgues, from their very diminutive stature. In the following year it has B 14 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, been maintained, on reasonable evidence, that they had a settlement in Newfoundland, which they called Vinland, from the vines growing there. We shall find that the same fondness for the vine, and a simi- lar abundance of that tree, induced Jacques Cartier to give tlie name of " Isle of Bacchus," to what is now termed the Isle of Orleans. They passed the winter there, and found that on the shortest day the sun rose at eight o'clock, which fixes the place of their visit to the 49th degree, the latitude of New- foundland, or of the River St. Lawrence. The follow- ing story is amusing : — One day a German sailor of the name of Tuckil was missing, but soon returned shouting and leaping for joy ; having, as he said, dis- covered the intoxicating grape of his own country, the expressed juice of which, according to the story, had had its usual effect upon his brain. To prove the truth of his assertion, he led some of his com- rades to the fortunate spot, and they gathered seve- ral bunches of grapes, which they presented in tri- umph to their commander, who called the country, in consequence, Vinland. This ancient settlement, however, after some years, seems to have been relin- quished, although it is believed that some traces of it have lately been discovered. We find it mentioned in Haliburton's History of Nova-Scotia, that the wild vine is well known there ; and all New England abounds with the wild purple grape, som6 vines of which are very prolific. There is the best evidence that it may be turned to ac- count in the manufacture of wine. An American writer observes, that there is not the slightest doubt that this vine may be cultivated so as to yield a thousand fold more than now, of large and finer fruit ; and the product will be abundant of almost ''^ WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 15 that they ey called We shall d a simi- 5 Cartier what is assed the ;day the place of of New- lie follow - 1 sailor of returned said, dis- i country, the story, To prove his com- red seve- red in tri- 5 country, ittlement, een relin- traces of history of wn there ; ild purple ;. There ed to ac- American test doubt o yield a and finer of almost ■M any flavored wine the manufacturer may choose. The pure juice, lightly expressed, and somewhat sweetened with ugar, will furnish a wine of most delicate flavor, similar in color and taste to a Fron- tignac and Muscat ; and the quality may be changed by a stronger expression of the astringent qualities of the skins, until the wine will, in that respect, run through all the varieties of claret and port, still re- taining, however, much of the original Muscat flavor. A Danish gentleman, of the name of Rafn, who has been engaged in researches respecting these early voyages, has ascertained from original documents, various facts previously unknown ; among others, that America, first discovered in 985, was repeatedly visited by the Norwegians in the eleventh, twelfth and thirteenth centuries — that the embouchure of the St. Lawrence, and in particular the Bay of Gaspe, was their principal station — that they had penetrated along the coast, as far south as Carolina, and that they introduced a knowledge of Christianity among the natives. We understand that he is preparing a work on this subject. And the accounts of the voyages of the old Scandina- vians to America, have lately gained a new confir- mation, by the discovery of a Runic stone : which, in the year 1824, was found under 73° N. latitude, on the coast of Greenland. The inscription translated is as follows : — " Erling Sigvalson, and Biorn Hor- " deson, and Endride Addson, Saturday before " Gagnday (Rogation Day) the 25th April, erected " these heaps of stone, and cleared the place in the « year 1135." 1 I 16 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, PERIOD OF MODERN DISCOVERY. I We now come to a period at which may be dated the real discovery of the American Continent The invention of the compass had given courage to the timid navigators of the fifteenth century. They no longer coasted along the shores, and sought popula- rity and applause by visiting Islands adjoining the continent of Africa. The discos "^rer of unknown regions, ardent in the pursuit of knowledge, of glory, and of gain, and proud in the patronage of princes, verified the description of Horace, and launched boldly into the Atlantic main : — llli robur et aes triplex Circa pectus erat, qui fragilem truci Commisit pelago ratem Prinius, nee timuit prsecipitem Africum Decertantem Aquilonibus, Nee tristes Hyadas, nee rabiem noti ; * * *^ * tit * * * Quern mortis timuit gradum Qui siccis oculis monstra natantia. Qui vidit mare turgidum et Infames scopulos ? Or oak, or brass, with triple fold Around that daring mortal's bosom roU'd, Who first to the wild ocean's rage Launch'd the frail bark, and heard the winds engage Tempestuous, when the South descends Precipitate, and with the North contends ; Nor fear'd the stars portending rain, Nor the loud tyrant of the western main. # * # « 7F * * * ■/ What various forms of death could fright The man, who viewed with fix'd, unshaken sight. The floating monsters, waves inflam'd And rocks for shipwreck'd fleets ill-famM ? WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 17 COLUMBUS, •:■;* Althougli the honor of the discovery of the New World may be divided amonjr three powers of Eu- rope, and oach be content with a share of the fame — the West Indies having been discovered by the great Columbus, in 1492, for the Spaniards — New- foundland, and the continent now called the United States, by the English, under John and Sebastian Cabot, in 1497 and 1498 — and Canada by the French, under Jacques Cartier, in 1535, we are ne- vertheless disposed to claim for the English the principal merit of the discovery. We contend, that independently of England having first entertained the propositions of Columbus in 1488, the absolute discovery of Newfoundland, by John Cabot, in 1497, a year before Columbus discovered South America at the mouth of the Orinoco, gives to the English an indefeasible title to the first discovery of the American Continent, although no steps were taken until many years afterwards to establish the British ascendancy over the countries in question. It is generally known, that the object which en- gaged the ambition, excited the cupidity, and stimu- lated the adventures of the early navigators, was the discovery of a passage to India and the spice coun- tries, by sailing round the Southern extremity of Africa ; and thence taking an Eastern course — a passage which was afterwards successfully effected by Vasco de Gama, the famous Portuguese navigator, in 1497. The Venetians are said to have had some information about the West Indies in the year 1424. It is certain that about the year 1 474, the renowned Columbus, Colombo, or Colon, as he is respectively B 2 18 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, called, a native of the Genoese territory, struck out a new and ingenious theory ; by which he contended on rational and philosophical principles, drawn from the sphericity and magnitude of the earth, which at that period had been ascertained — that a shorter and more direct passage to the East Indies might be found by steering across the Atlantic due West. After first offering the result of his conviction to the Genoese Republic, his native land, by which it was neglected — afterwards to the King of Portugal, who basely endeavored to take advantage of the project without employing its author in the execution — Columbus proceeded to Spain, having first sent his brother Bartholomew to England : where, after resid- ing for some time in poverty and neglect, owing to his capture by pirates on the voyage, he succeeded in completing and publishing a Map of the World, dated 21st February, 1480, which he afterwards found means to present to the King, Henry VII. The following lines more remarkable for their sub- ject and their antiquity than for any poetical merit, were inscribed upon this Map. Terrarum quicunque cupis feliciter oras Noscere, cuncta decens docte pictura docebit, Quae Strabo affirmat, Ptolemoeus, Plinius atque Isidorus ; noa una tamen sententia cuique. Pingitur hie etiam nuper sulcata carinis Hispanis zona ilia, prius incognita genti « Torrida, quae tandem nunc est notissima multis. Pro autore, siye pictore. And a little lower were these additional lines : Genoa cui patria est, nomen cui Bartholomceus, Columbus de terra rubra, opus edidit istud, Londiniis, An. Dom. 1480, atque insuper anno, Octava decim&que die cum tertia mensis Febr. Laudes Christo caatentur abundd. Tl ** soe " of " ele) " and *' not *' Toi ** ove V \ «ngue, Te addi knt in » WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 21 iscovery of by Colum- ider British nted, endea- mariners of scoveries on lumbus. In )very of the erchant, was siastic spirit impression ; forming ex- eat Genoese, cation to the . him Letters zing the said lis, Sebastian ;he discovery lobe. They them as the ;o the Crown venture, and rt of Bristol, oubt the dis- day of June, .abrador, to orimum visa^ ey called St n's day, the ewfoundland )y Cabot was latitude 45. If so, it was in the peninsula of I Nova Scotia, and as they coasted the land North- I ward, they must have entered the Gulf of St. Law- ^ rence in pursuit of the Northern passage, John ^ Cabot returned to England in August, 1497, and was presented with ten pounds by the King from his ,«iprivy purse as a reward to him, " who had found "^Ithe new Isle." In February, 1498, new style, the 'King granted to the same John Cabot second Letters 'Patent, with authority to sail from any port in England, in six vessels of not more than two hun- dred tons each, and with more favorable terms than ^before. In this second commission, he expressly Mentions " the lands and isles of late found by the **' said John in our name and by our commandment." \About this time, however. Sir John Cabot, who had ^received the honor of knighthood, died ; and in the iummer of the year 1498, Sebastian Cabot, his son, although a young man of twenty three years of age, ^as promoted to the command of the expedition, and lailed on a voyage of discovery, in search of a north- west passage into the south seas. He soon reached .Kewfoundland, and proceeded as far as the 56th de- yee of latitude north ; whence, being unable to dis- 1|over any such passage, he returned and examined the lame coast towards the south, until he came to the Jeautiful country, at present called Florida. Fabian Jates, that in the fourteenth year of Henry VII. f499, there were in London three wild men brought ^ Cabot to the King, " taken in the new found ** land." They were clothed in the skins of animals, d eat raw flesh : they spoke in a strange uncouth ngue, and were very brutish in their behaviour, e adds, however, that such had been their improve- ent in the civilising atmosphere of London, that 22 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, il »(' ii i when he next saw them two years afterwards, dressed in English habits, he could with difficulty recognise them. In claiming the merit of a prior discovery of North America for the English, it must be obvious that there is no intention to detract from the fame of Columbus. It is difficult, indeed, to repress astonish- ment at the success of that illustrious navigator, and at the magnitude and splendor of his discovery. We regard the great Columbus with admiration as the first who conceived and executed a mighty design, and brought about the revelation of a new world — but must not deny praise, though of an inferior degree, to those gallant spirits who followed him in his glorious career. It is a remarkable historical fact, and one highly honorable to English enterprise, that not only did Henry VII. listen favorably to the propositions of Columbus, some years before they were accepted by the Spanish Court, but that, although Columbus landed in Hispaniola so early as February, 1493, he did not ascertain the existence of the continent of South America until May, 1498 — whereas there is certain evidence that almost a year before, an Eng- lish vessel had reached the shores of the North Ame- rican continent. Sir John Cabot, therefore, was undoubtedly the first discoverer of this continent, which Columbus did not see until a year afterwards ; while his son Sebastian was the first discoverer of Florida, so called in 1512, when it was taken posses- sion of by the Spaniards under Juan Ponce de Leon, who passes with many as the original discoverer. Neither Cabot or Columbus were destined to know that their names were immortalised in those of the lands they had discovered. An attempt was lately made to give the name of Cabotia to the Britisli ii; Provi f taken I Vespi ble ca me robbe lion w $re le keen \ can ne treatec Cabot ifiie sei ^ndert Ibssary fesided called J 1548, ] Englan pounds In con( flat th( respect; Cpabot, ^Hmts o WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 23 ,rds, dressed y recognise ;ry of North )bvious that :he fame of ess astonish- srigator, and overy. We ation as the V- design, and r world — but or degree, to I his glorious act, and one that not only propositions ^ere accepted rh. Columbus iry, 1493, he continent of reas there is )re, an Eng- ; North Ame- lerefore, was lis continent, I afterwards ; discoverer of taken posses- nee de Leon, iscoverer. destined to 2d in those of attempt waj to the Bri " Provinces of this continent — but that of America, taken from the spurious pretensions of Amerigo Vespuccio, a drawer of charts, has by an unaccounta- ble caprice, supplanted the noble name of Columbia. The bold usurpation of a fortunate imposter has robbed the discoverer of the new world of a distinc- tion which belonged to him of right ; and mankind §xe left to regret an act of injustice, which, having keen sanctioned by the lapse of so many ages, they can never redress, Columbus, however ungratefully treated, has been redeemed by fame. Sebastian Gabot lived long in great reputation. He entered into file service of Spain, but returned to England, and undertook a third voyage in 1517, which it is unne- (iessary to touch upon in this place. He afterwards iesided in London, and built a fine house atBlackwall, fBlled Poplar, which names still remain. In the year $548, he was made, by Edward VL, grand pilot of England, with a fee of one hundred and sixty six pounds thirteen shillings and four pence per annum. la concluding this notice of Cabot, we may mention tiiat there are at present in Boston and Philadelphia, WNpectable families, bearing the name and arms of Cabot, who are generally considered to be descen- Aints of the great navigator. VOYAGE OF CORTEREAL. 4 The next voyage in the order of discovery was t|at undertaken in 1500, three years after the re- |rn of Sir John Cabot, by the Portuguese : a nation whose genius and perseverance the world owes [e highest triumphs of geography and navigation, was conducted by Gaspar Cortereal, a gentle- \n who had been educated in the household of the ! il 24 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, King of Portugal, and who is represented as a man of enterprising and determined character, ardently thirsting after glory. Pursuing the track of Sir John Cabot, he reached the northern extremity of New- foundland, and is considered to have discovered the Gulf of St. Lawrence. He also sailed along the coast of Labrador, northward ; and appears to have pene- trated nearly to Hudson's Bay. He returned to Lisbon on the 8th October, 1500. The character of this voyage was less honorable to the cause of discovery than any of the former ; it having been undertaken, apparently, rather for the purpose of obtaining timber and slaves, than for the advancement of the cause of science. He brought back to Portugal no less than fifty seven of tlie natives, who were coolly destined to slavery, and whose superior capability of labor appears to have been a subject of gratifying specu- lation. In a letter written eight days after their ar- rival by the Venetian Ambassador at the Court of Lisbon, these unfortunate persons are thus described : " they are extremely fitted to endure labor, and will " probably turn out the best slaves which have been " discovered up to this time." Such was the cold blooded speculation of avarice, even among a people so renowned for honorable achievements as the Por- tuguese of that day ! It has, indeed, been conjec- tured that the name. Terra de Laborador, was given to this coast by the Portuguese slave merchants, in consequence of the admirable qualities of the natives as labourers, and in full anticipation of the future advantages to be derived from this unchristian traffic. These cruel designs were, however, frustrated by accumulated distress and disaster. In a second voy- was a after a gre fitted of th infer] One new 1 ruled map ] l^ern St. L the nj stren^ claimi the a tually Ab. being in An rived ] Normj for co( ithe ad Tives 1 . Harfle In 150 brouffl natura Ifrom ■.v age, in 1501, Cortereal was lost at sea; and a third, i"^^'^^ P undertaken by his brother Michael, in search of hiin WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIOKS. 25 i as a man jr, ardently : of Sir John ity of New- covered the ng the coast have pene- returned to character of of discovery undertaken, ining timber the cause of no less than ally destined [ity of labor fying specu- fter their ar- ihe Court of as described : bor, and will ch have been was the cold )ng a people ; as the Por- )een conjee- or, was given lerchants, in >f the natives )f the future •istian traffic, frustrated by second voy- and a third, earch of hiin was alike unfortunate. Neither of the brothers was ever afterwards heard of. The King of Portugal, feeling a great affection for these gentlemen, is stated to have fitted out at his own expense an expedHion, consisting of three armed vessels, which returned without anv information as to the manner or place of their death. One brother still remained, who was anxious to re- new the attempt to discover their fate, but was over- ruled by the persuasion of the king. In an old map published in 1508, the Labrador coast is called Terra Corterealis ; and the entrance into the Gulf of St. Lawrence was long known to the Portuguese by the name of the Gulf of the Two Brothers. On the strength of the voyage of Cortereal, the Portuguese claimed the first discovery of Newfoundland, and of the adjacent coast of America ; and maps were ac- tually forged to support these unfair pretensions. . DISCOVERY BY THE FRENCH. About the year 1504, we first hear of any attempt being made by the French to obtain, if not a footing in America, still a share in the advantages to be de- rived from its discovery. At this date, some Basque, Norman, and Breton fishermen, commenced fishing for cod on the great bank of Newfoundland, and near |the adjacent shores. From them Cape Breton de- lves its name. In 1506, Jean Denys, a native of , Harfleur, made a map of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In 1508, a Pih)t of Dieppe, by name Thomas Aubert, brought into France some natives of America, who .naturally excited great curiosity. It does not appear ^from what part of the coast they were taken, but Imost probably from Cape Breton. 26 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I! GIOVANNI VERAZZANO. Some years afterwards, the conquests of the Spa- niards in America began to excite the attention and cupidity of Europe, but the further progress of dis- covery in those northern parts of the continent with which the French fishermen were acquainted, offer- ing no prospect of inexhaustible mines of gold and silver, such as were found in Mexico and Peru — the French, although a people, undoubtedly, of the high- est genius and enterprise, evinced an unaccountable apathy upon this great subject, and for several years entirely neglected it. At length, in 1523, Francis I. a monarch deeply captivated with the love of glory, wishing to excite the enterprise and emulation of his subjects in matters of navigation and commerce, as he had successfully done in the sciences and fine arts, caught a generous enthusiasm for maritime dis- covery ; and eager to vie in all things with his great rival Charles V. fitted out an armament of four ships, the command of which he entrusted to Giovanni Verazzano, or Verazzani, a Florentine navigator of great skill and celebrity, then resident in France, and willing to undertake a voyage which might prove no less honorable than profitable to him. Previously to this time, a bull of donation had been issued by the too famous Alexander VI. then Pope, by which he liad conferred the new world as a free gift upon the Kings of Spain and Portugal. Neither England or France, however, acknowledged the inherent right of the Pope to make such magnificent gifts of an un- known world. The English sent out voyages of dis- covery without demanding leave of his Holiness ; and a shrewd observation of the French King is hand acqui ofth( "shs «div a me see qu€ Ve birth accou are 'v would Of his JVIona l*emar] 4o the fefterw, the ne and CO tea G Frenc have h hud lu ffentlej 5ie gli and lui Not irst ex •econd J)aup}i |525; lerly d iirrived pefore % WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 27 )f the Spa- ;ention and Tess of dis- tineiit with ited, offer- ,f gold and Peru — the 3f the high- accountable everal years J, Francis I. ^e of glory, mulation of d commerce, ices and fine maritime dis- ith his great ►f four ships, ) Giovanni navigator of France, and rht prove no ^-eviously to ssued by the by which he jift upon the England or rent right of 'ts of an un- cages of dis- 3 Holiness ; Cch King is handed down, showing that he was not disposed to acquiesce in any division made exclusively in favor of those Princes. " What," said Francis, pleasantly, " shall the Kings of Spain and Portugal quietly " divide all America between them, without suffering " me to take a share as their brother ? I would fain " see the article in father Adam's will, which be- " queaths that vast inheritance to them." Verazzano was born about the year 1485, of noble birth ; and from his letters to Francis I. giving an account of his voyage, published in Ramv':io, which are 'vritten in a very simple and elegant style, it would appear that he had received a liberal education. *Of his reasons for entering the service of the French JVIonarch nothing is known. Charlevoix makes a remark worthy of rememLrance, that it was greatly to the honor of Italy, that the three great powers who tifterwards divided among them nearly the whole of the new world, owed their first discoveries to the skill and conduct of natives of that country — the Spaniards to a Genoese — the English to a Venetian — and the French to a Florentine. Another Florentine might have been handed down with approbation to posterity, liad he not by a species of treachery unworthy of a fentleman, given his name to the largest quarter of le globe, to the prejudice of the great discoverer |nd master spirit of the age^ Columbus. 4 Nothing certain is known of the particulars of the Irst expedition of Verazzano. He commenced his •econd voyage of discovery with a single vessel, the pauphin, about the close of 1524, or the beginning of 1 525 ; and having left Madeira, he steered in a wes- terly direction for nine hundred leagues, until he frrived upon a coast, which he declared had never efore been seen by either ancient or modern navi- 28 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ; gators — " una terra nuova, non piu dagPantichi ne " da moderni vista." This land is supposed for good reasons to have been in latitude 32"^, and is now known as Savannah. The country was thickly inha- bited, as he judged from the number of fires which were burning along the coast. Of the beauty of the scenery he gives a very glowing description, highly eulogizing the delightful climate, and the handsome stature and appearance of the natives. From this spot Verazzano, with indefatigable zeal, pursued his course, coasting along the shores and narrowly ex- amining every inlet in hopes of a passage through, until he reached the land discovered by the Bretons in kit. 50°, which is evidently Newfoundland : thus completing the survey of a line of coast extending for seven hundred leagues, and embracing nearly the whole of the United States, along with a considerable portion of British North America. In none of the old accounts of this navigator, has justice been done to his great services and zeal. This was without doubt an enterprise of great magnitude and deter- mination, well deserving to be carefully recorded, as comprehending one of the most extensive ranges of early discovery. It is of particular interest at the present day, as having been the means of first mak- ing us acquainted with that noble country, whose history is so important ; and v/hose destinies, even after a progress unrivalled in rapidity, appear at tlii;: moment to be scarcely arrived at maturity. To this extensive region Verazzano, as he w?*^ justly entitled to do, gave the name of New France and on his return laid before his patron, Francis I. a plan for its further and complete survey, together with a scheme for the establishment of a colony therein. We are not informed what part of tht WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 29 gVantichi ne 3sed for good and is now thickly inha- f fires which >eauty of the )tion, highly lie handsome , From this [j pursued his narrowly ex- age through, ' the Bretons idland : thus ist extending ng nearly the t considerable n none of the Lce been done was without ie and deter- recorded, as ive ranges of terest at the 1 of first mak- intry, whose estinies, even appear at thii ity. o, as he vf?"- N^ew France jn, Francis I. ^ey, together of a colony t part of tht continent it was the intention of Verazzano to select for colonization ; but it is most probable that the scene of his operations would have been chosen on the Atlantic shore of one of the southern United States. Nor does it require the aid of imagination to con- I ceive, how different would have been the historic detail of events, and how changed the condition of the whole of North America, had he been enabled if^to carry his grand project into full and successful execution. He was not permitted by Providence to do so ; and his future proceedings are enveloped in a mystery which it is now vain to attempt to pe- netrate. It is related that he actually sailed on his third expedition with the full intention of founding a colony, and that he never more was heard of. Hakluyt says, that he made three voyages, and pre- sented a chart of the coast to Henry VHI. Ramu- sio, the publisher of the most ancient and perhaps the most valuable collection of voyages extant, could not discover any particulars of this last expe- dition, or even ascertain the year in which it took place. It is most probable, if we divest the story and the supposed fate of Verazzano, of the fable and ipomance in which they have been involved by the lapse of ages, and the perpetuation of error — that finding, on his return to France, his patron Francis I. a prisoner at Madrid, in the hands of the Emperor Charles V. — having been taken at the memorable battle of Pavia on the 2^)th February, 1525, and detained in captivity until the 18th March in the following year — and seeing no chance of further em- ployment, he left the service of France, and de- fended on his own resources. It would sufficiently Account for his never afterwards having been heard ff, if he withdrew from the observation of French c 2 30 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, nautical men, and retired to private life in his native country. Although there is no evidence that Verazzano even approached any part of Canada, we have been more diffuse in our notice of this navigator, from the circumstance of a tradition extant in this coun- try from ail early period, that the River St. Law- rence was the scene of his death. It certainly has always been asserted, and believed down to our own times, that his third voyage proved fatal to him and his crew. The truth is, that no account of the de- tails of his third voyage, if indeed it was commenced, which is rather doubtful — and least of all any relation of the manner or place of his death can now be discovered : for the best of all possible reasons, as will be presently shown to the satisfaction of the reader. Tlje story of his having been massacred with his creW, and afterwards devoured by the sa- vages, is an absolute fable ; and it is rather hard, without a shadow of evidence, to fix upon the red inhabitants of this continent the character of An- thropophagi. The Baron La Hontan, who Tisited Quebec in 1683, repeats the fable, and observes : " Verazzano was the first who discovered Canada, " but to his cost, for the savages eat him." La Potherie, who was here in 1698, says nearly the same thing : — Le Beau, who arrived in Canada in 1729, speaking cf its discovery, says, that " Veraz- " zano took possession of the country in the name '• of Francis I. that he had the misfortune to be ''- devoured by the savages, without having pene- " trated as far as Jacques Car tier." He gives no authority for this assertion ; and, doubtless, only re- peated the tradition of La Hontan, who after all seems to mention it more in jest than as really be- lievin the St « Je (C (C uns enc jett « et itself; ble th of Gi] voyag wards fate. Af( make, Itructii posite Three- C'hasse jl|rang( «pon tJ volume His tori i|iow tl .^erishe |er, eil up the Tors, \\ account in the fuade h the seas le deal »•■ rW his native Verazzano have been rator, from this coun- r St. Law- rtainly has to our own to him and of the de- ommenced, iny relation can now be reasons, as ;tion of the 1 massacred by the sa- ather hard, >on the red jter of An- tvho Tisited observes : ed Canada, him." La nearly the Canada in t " Veraz- n the name tune to be ying pene- e gives no iss, only re- o after all really be- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 31 lieving it. Charlevoix, with better taste, repudiates the story as altogether fabulous. His words are ; " Je ne trouve aucun fondement a ce que quelquea " uns ont public, qu'ayant mis pied a terre dans uii " endroit ou il voulait batir un fort, les sauvages se " jeterent sur lui, le massacrcrent avec tons ses gens " et le mangerent." With respect to the tradition itself, if derived from the Indians, it is not improba- ble that it had reference to the manner of the death of Gaspar Cortereal, who perished on his second voyage ; and who, from his previous cruelties to- wards the natives, may be said to have provoked his fate. LE CANON DK BRONZE. A few years ago an ancient cannon of peculiar make, and supposed to have been of Spanish coii- Btruction, was found in the River St. Lawrence, op- posite the Parish of Champlain, in the District of Three-Rivers. It is now in the Museum of Mr. Chasseur, and will repay the visit of the curious stranger. The ingenious writer of the Treatise i^pon this piece of ordnance, published in the second volume of the Transactions of the Literary and pistorical Society of- Quebec, has endeavored to l^ow that it belonged to Verazzano — that the latter .|^erished before the second voyage of Jacques Car- eer, either by scurvy or by shipwreck, on his way ^p the river towards Hochelaga. He also endea- vors, with great stretch of fancy, to explain and {ccount for the pantomime enacted by the Indians [I the presence of Jacques Cartie , in order to dis- |uade him from proceeding to Hochelaga so late in ' e season, by their recollection of, and allusion to e death of Verazzano, some nine or ten years be- ad NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, i^l! fore. But if they had really known any thing res- pecting the fate of this navigator — and it must have been fresh in their memory if we recal to mind how comparatively short a period had elapsed — is it not most likely that they would have found means, through the two native interpreters, to communicate it to Cartier ? Yet it appears that the latter never so much as heard of it, either at Hochelai, now the Richelieu, where he was on friendly terms with the chief of that village — or at Hochelaga, where it must have been known — or when he wintered at St. Croix, in the little River St. Charles — or yet when he passed a second winter at Carouge ! The best evi- dence, however, that the Indian pantomime had no reference to Verazzano, and to disprove at once the truth of the tradition respecting his death in any part of the St. Lawrence, is to show, which we shall do on good authority, that at the very time when Cartier was passing the winter at St. Croix, Veraz- zano was actually alive in Italy. From a letcer of Annibal Caro, quoted by Tiraboschi, an author of undoubted reputation, in the Storia della Lettera- tura Italiana, Vol. VII. part 1, pp. 261-262, it is proved that Verazzano was living in 1537, a year after the pantomime at St. Croix ! While on the subject of the Canon de Bronze, it may be noticed that Charlevoix mentions also a tra- dition, that Jacques Cartier himself was shipwrecked at the mouth of the river called by his name, with the loss of one of his vessels. From this it has been supposed that the Canon de Bronze was lost on that occasion ; and an erroneous inscription to that ef- fect has been engraved upon it. In the first place the cannon was not found at the mouth of the River Jacques Cartier, but opposite the Parish of Cham- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. f thing res- must have [) mind how d — is it not md means, jmmunicate latter never lai, now the [ns with the iiere it must it St. Croix, 3t when he lie best evi- nime had no )ve at once death in any lich we shall r time when roix, Veraz- 1 a letter of in author of ella Lettera- 11-262, it is 537, a year le Bronze^ it IS also a tra- shipwrecked ime, with the it has been lost on that to that ef- he first place of the River sh of Cham- plain : in the next, no shipwreck was ever suffered by Jacques Cartier, who wintered in fact at the mouth of the little River St. Charles. The tradi- tion as to his shipwreck, and the loss of one of his vessels, most probably arose from the well known circumstance of his having returned to France with two ships, instead of three, with which he left St. Malo. Having lost so many Kien by scurvy dur- ing his first winter in Canada, he was under the ne- cessity of abandoning one of them, which lay in the harbour of St. Croix. The people of Scitadin hav- ing possessed themselves of the old iron to be found in the vessel, it of course soon fell to pieces ; and in process of time arose the tradition that Jacques Car- tier had been shipwrecked. The removal of the scene of his supposed disaster, from the St. Charles to the River Jacques Cartier, was an error of Char- levoix. 4 Before we conclude this notice of Verazzano, it inay be mentioned, that in the Strozzi Library at Florence is preserved a manuscript, in which he is gaid to have given with great minuteness, a descrip- |ion of all the countries which he had visited during his voyage ; and from which, says Tiraboschi, we Jerive the intelligence, that he had formed the de- sign, in common with the other navigators of that f ra, of attempting a passage through those seas to ilie East Indies. It is much to be desired, that |ome Italian Scholar would favor the world with the ^publication of this manuscript of Verazzano. ■* ) > 34 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I!' : ' .i'! "II CHAPTER THE THIRD. HISTORICAL SK fCH CONTINUED. — FIRST AND SECOND VOYAGE OF JACQUES CARTIER. In the year following the supposed loss of Veraz- zano, Stephano Gomez, the first Spanish navigator who came upon the American coast for the purpose of discovery, sailed from Spain to Cuba and Florida — thence northward to Cape Razo, or Race, in lati- tude 46°, in search of a northwest passage to the East Indies. We have not been able to find any particulars of this voyage. It establishes the proba- bility of the coasts of the Gulf having been visited by the Spaniards before the time of Jacques Cartier ; a tradition which is mentioned by Charlevoix, who says that the Baye des Chaleurs, so called by Car- tier, had previously borne the name in old maps, of Baye des Espagnols. The French were partially deterred by the ill-suc- cess of their endeavors to profit by the discoveries of Verazzano ; but after the interval of a few years they resolved to make a new attempt. The advan- tages of the establishment of a colony in the newly discovered country were represented anew to the King by Philippe Chabot, Admiral of France ; and the project was again favorably entertained by Fran- cis I. The Admiral introduced to His Majesty Jacjjues Quartier, or Cartier, an experienced navigator of St. Malo, as a person eminently quali- fied <( "*. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 35 ). AND SECOND )ss of Veraz- ish navigator the purpose i and Florida Llace, in lati- >sage to the to find any es the proba- been visited c[ues Cartier ; irlevoixj who led by Car- old maps, of y the ill-suc- liscoveries of a few years The advan- in the newly anew to the France ; and ned by Fran- is Majesty experienced inently quali- fied to conduct the enterprise ; and he was accord- ingly appointed to the command. He received his instructions from Charles de Mouy, Knight, Lord of Meilleraye, and Vice Admiral of France ; and the *' captains, masters and mariners having sworn to behave themselves truly and faithfully in the service of the most Christian King of France, under th* charge of the said Cartier, upon the 20th day of April, 1534, they departed from the port of St. Malo, with two ships of three score tons a piece burthen, and sixty one well appointed men in each." See the first relation of Jacques Cartier in Hakluyt, vol. III. p. 201. On the tenth of May, they arrived at New- foundland; and made Cape Bonavista, which still bears the same name, in latitude 48°, 30'' according to the lame relation. Finding the coast there completely ice bound, they sought for anchorage ; and found k in the harbor of St. Catherine, now Catalina, four or five leagues to tae south east. Here they remain- ed ten days, and on the 21st May, sailing towards the north, they came to the Isle of Birds, which must by no means be confounded with Bird Island in the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; but is supposed to be Funk Island, about fourteen leagues from Cape Freels, the ifearest land. After some curious accounts of the Mrds which he found there, Cartier indulges us with a story of a bear, which we shall extract for the amusement of our readers. " Albeit the said Island is fourteen leagues from the main land, notwith- standing bears come swimming to eat of the said birds ; and our men found one there as great as any epvv, and as white as any swan, who in their presence leaped into the sea ; and upon Whitsun Monday, (lollowing our voyage towards the land,) we met her by the way, swimming towards land as swiftly as we 36 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, i could sail. So soon as we saw her, we pursued her in our boats, and by main strength took her, whose flesh was as good to be eaten as the flesh of cattle of two years old." Cartier in this voj'^age appears to have made a pretty accurate survey of nep.rly the whole of New- foundland, having almost circumnavigated it, passing through tLe Straits of Belleisle. Changing his course somewhat to the so'ith, he traversed the Gulf of St. Lawrence, then for the first time known to Europeans, unless we admit the tradition respecting the prior visit of the Spaniards ; and approaching the continent on the 9th July, he came to the Boye des Chaleurs, so calle*' from the great heat of the summer at that place, it has kept the name to the present day. Here he was delighted with the beauty of the country ; and with the friendly and peaceable behaviour of the natives, with whom he established a kind of traflic. The following description of the Indians is worth copying in the quaint words of Hakluyt : " We saw certain wild men that stood upon the shore of a Lake, who were making fires and smokes ; we went thither and found there was a chaiiiiel of the sea that did en- ter into the Lake, and setting our boats at one of tl banks of the channel, the wild men with one of their boats came unto us, and brought us pieces of seals ready sodden, putting them upon pieces of wood ; then, retiring themselves, they would make signs unto us, that they did give them us." — " They call a hat- chet in their tongue, cocki ; and a knife, bacon. We named it the Bay of Heat." From this hospitable place, where the natives seem to have displayed some of the politesse of modern society, Jacques Cartier proceeded to Gaspe, or Gachepe Bay : where on the 24th July, he erected a crosi the 1 ten his r( carri( fiecoii captu jealoi Wglitl nativt Jhadaf for th Thel him tc ibowei JHm f( l^d Ji lifllowi SOdder euforci ^re Sttaigh ibirm, tiuned wiis bu Wlys sKortly wares, two of] to the tllern in put aboi t db / wei WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. ar pursued her her, whose of cattle of ive made a , ole of New- el it, passing ig his course 3 Gulf of St. ) Europeans, ng the prior the continent des Chaleurs, liner at that present day. f the country; laviour of the und of traffic, ians is worth " We saw ore of a Lake, went thither that did en- at one of tl one of their eces of seals les of wood; ike signs unto ley call a hat- bacon, "VVe natives seem je of modern 10 Gaspe, ot he erected a cross thirty feet high, with a shield bearing the three Fleurs-de-Lys of France, thus taking possession in the name of Francis I. Here he remained about ten days ; and on the 25th July, he commenced his return to France. As the two natives whom he carried off from Gaspe acted a conspicuous part in the second voyage, we shall extract the account of their capture. The Indians seem to have evinced some jealousy at the erection of the cross, which they lightly interpreted into a claim of authority over their native country ; and their Chief, clad in bear's skin, had approached, but not so near as usual, to the ships, (pv the purpose of remonstrating in a long oration. The French used the following stratagem to induce fcim to draw nearer. " His talk being ended, we jrfiowed to him an axe, faining that we would give it kim for his skin, to which he listened, for by little and little he came near to our ships. One of our fellows that was in our boat, took hold on theirs, and suddenly leaped into it, with two or three more, who enforced them to enter into our ships, whereat they were greatly astonished. But our Captain did ^aightways assure them, that they should have no liarm, nor any injury offered them at all ; and enter- twned them very freely, making them eat and drink. 'M\cn did we show them with signs, that the Cross was but only set up to be as a light and leader which ways to enter into the port ; and that we should shortly come again, and bring good store of iron wares, and other things. But that we would take two of his children with us, and afterwards bring them to the said port again — and so we clothed two of them in shirts, and coloured coats, with red caps, and pit about every one's neck a copper chain, whereat iksty were greatly contented : then gave they their D 38 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, old clothes to their fellows that went back again, and we gave to each one of those three that went back, a hatchet and some knives, which made them very glad. After these were gone and had told the news unto their fellows, in the afternoon there came to our ships six boats of them with five or six men in every one, to take their farewell of those two we had de- tained to take with us ; and brought them some fish, uttering many words which we did not understand, making signs that they would not remove the Cross we had set up." From the 25th July to the 15th Au- gust, Cartier coasted along the northern shores of the Gulf, and would seem to have entered the mouth of the St. Lawrence ; but meeting with boisterous M'ca- ther, without further delay he made sail for France^ and passing again through the Straits of Belleisle, he arrived in safety at St. Malo on the 5th Septem- ber, 1534. HIS SECOND VOYAGE, AND DISCOVERY OF CANADA. t The Report of Jacques Cartier, and the relation of his successes and projects, highly calculated as they were to stimulate the nascent spirit of enter- prise, induced the French Court to resolve upon the establishment of a colony in New France. The na- vigator himself was treated with great favor ana d'^z- tinction ; and through the influence of his patron Charles de Mouy, Sieur de Meilleraye, Vice Admi- ral of France, he obtained from Francis I. a new commission with more temple powers than before, together with a considerable augmentation of force. When every thing was p/epared for the sailing of the expedition, the favor of the Almighty was in- voked upon the undertaking. By the express com- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 39 ^ain, and ^ent back, [lem very the news ime to our 1 in every e had de- some fish, nderstand, the Cross 2 15th Au- ores of the ) mouth of erous wca- for France^ ■ Belleisle, th Septem- CANADA. le relation culated as t of enter- upon the The na- or ana fl'C- his patron 'ice Admi- I. a new an before, n of force, sailing of TY was in- press com- s mand of Cartier, who appears to have been devoutly disposed, the whole company, having first confessed, and received the sacrament in the Cathedral Church of St. Malo, on Whitsunday, May 16th, 1535, pre- sented themselves in the Choir, and received the be- nediction of the Lord Bishop, in his full pontifical robes. On the Wednesday following. May 19th, Cartier embarked with a fair wind, and made sail w^ith the following armament under his command : — the Great Hermina, of one hundred and twenty tons, on board which was Cartier himself, and several gen- tlemen volunteers — the Little Hermina of sixty tons, — and the Hernierillon, of forty tons burthen. The number of their respective crews is not given. On the very next day after putting to sea, the weather proved contrary, and the little fleet was tossed about for more than a month without making much pro- gress. On the 25th June they parted company, each endeavoring to make the best of the way to the place of rendezvous, on the coast of Newfoundland. The General's vessel, as Cartier was called, arrived firt only to the whole of this celebrated Gulf, but to the magnificent River of Canada, of which this is the embouchure. The Gulf of St. Lawrence which Jacques Cartier had now traversed, and to which he had given its enduring name, is about eighty leagues in length ; and in modern navigation, with a favorable wind and current way be sailed over in twenty-four hours. The French were necessarily a much longer period in crossing it, exploring as they proceeded princi- pally the northern shore. The breadth of the Gulf seems to have been accurately determined by Car- tier, who states the distance " between the southerly lands and the northerly," to be about thirty leagues. Cape Rosier, a small distance to the north of the point of Gaspe, is properly the place which marks the opening of the gigantic river ; and it is thence that the breadth of its mouth must be estimated at ninety miles. Measured from the eastern extremity of Gaspe, its width is one hundred and twenty miles. Leaving the Bay to which they had given the name of St. Lawrence on the 12th August, they dis- covered, on the 15th, an Island towards the south, to which Cartier gave the name of the Assumption, in honor of tue day. The English afterwards called it WITH HISTORICAL BECOLLECTIONS. 41 Anticosti, as being somewhat similar in sound to its Indian name, Natiscotec, From this Island Cartier continued his course, like an experienced mariner closely examining both shores of the river ; and when practicable, opening a communication with the inhabitants. On the 1st September he entered the mouth of the River Saguenay, which is accurately described ; and which must have given him an ex- alted idea of the country he had thus discovered. On the 6th he reached the Isle aux Coudres, so called from its filberts, which he describes as " big- ger and better in savour than the French, but some- what harder," • In the second relation of Jacques Cartier, pub- lished in Hakluyt, which we have taken as the basis of this account, it is stated, that he obtained consi- derable information respecting the country he was approaching, from the two natives whom he had taken to France from Honguedo, or Gaspe, on his previous voyage ; and who having been several months in that country, were no doubt able to act the part of interpreters between Cartier and the natives, in his ascent of the St, Lawrence. It would appear from this, that Canada for an immense extent must have been peopled by one widely scattered Tribe of Abo- rigines—since the language spoken from Quebec to Gaspe was either the same, or so nearly allied, as to enable the interpreters to be serviceable in their capacity. The French, however, from their own ignorance of the Indian tongues, could noc detect imposition, if any was practised or intended ; and judg- ing as they did from their own momentary impressions, it is evident that they were prepared to receive as entitled to credit all that these men told them. For instance, it is scarcely possible to suppose that the D 2 42 IINIlH i! 1 I'M!, NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, two interpreters could have been not only personally known to the natives of the shore, as they landed in their boats in various places, but also to those of the St. Charles, near Quebec. It is clear that the Indians must have spoken, as they always do figurately ; and that the French understood them literally. At the entrance of the River Saguenay the following incident happened : — " We met with four boats full of wild men, which as far as we could per- ceive, very fearfully came towards us, so that some of them went back again, and the other came as near us as easily they might hear and understand one of our wild men, who told them his name, and then took acquaintance of them, upon whose word they came to us." Again, on coming to anchor between the Isle of Orleans and the north shore, Jacques Cartier says, " We went on land and took our two wild men with us, meeting many of those country people who would not at all approach unto us, but rather fled from us, until our two men began to speak unto them, telling them that they were Taignoagny and DoMAGAiA ; who so soon as they had tak . ac- quaintance of them, began greatly to rejoice, dancing and showing many sorts of ceremonies ; and many of the chiefest of them came to our boats, and brought many eels and other sorts of fishes, with two or three burthen of great millet, wherewith they made their bread, and many great musk melons. The same day came also many other boats, full of those countrymen and women to see and take ac- quaintance of our two men." That the mere enun- tiaiion of their names by the interpreters should have proved a talisman of such power is scarcely credible, if we regard these names merely as proper to the in- dividuals before their first adventure with Jacques WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 43 jrsonally anded in se of the tliat the ways do od them lenay the with four ould per- that some le as near nd one of then took hey came ween the es Cartier two wild try people [)ut rather peak unto AGNY and Itak . ac- j dancing nd many oats, and with two ith they melons. ,ts, full of take ac- ;re enun- lould have credible, Ito the in- lli Jacques Cartier in the Bay of Gaspe. But the irresistible supposition is, that these names, which seem to have produced every where such extraordinary effect, must have been altogether special and peculiar, adopted by the interpreters themselves, according to the Indian custom, as designating the most remarka- ble event in their lives — .namely, that they had been taken away from their own to a foreign land by white strangers, whence they had returned in safety. In this view only, is it easy to account for the apparent effect of the names when heard ; and for the anxiety of the Indians of the St. Lawrence to " take ac- quaintance" with their travelled brethrent HE DISCOVERS QUEBEC. Pursuing his voyage which was now becoming more and more interesting, Cartier left the Isle aux Coudres, and soon reached an Island, which from its beauty and fertility, as well as from the number of wild vines which grew there, he called the Isle of Bacchus. It is now the Island of Orleans, and greatly enhances .he beauty of the prospect from the high grounds of Quebec. Here, on the 7th September, he opened a friendly communication with the natives ; and on the following day, " the Lord of Canada, whose proper name was Donnacona," came with twelve canoes full of his people, eight being in each, to visit the strangers as they lay at anchor between the Is- land and the north shore. Commanding the attendant canoes to remain at a little distance, Donnacona, with two canoes only, approached close to the smallest of the three vessels. He then commenced the usual ora- tion, accompanying it with strange and uncouth ac- tion ; and after conversing with the interpreters, who 44 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ! i informed him of their wonderful visit to France, and the kindness with which they had been treated by the white men, penetrated apparently with awe and respect, he took the arm of Cartier, kissed it, and placed it upon his neck, an expression of feeling eloquent of amity and confidence. Nor was Cartier backward in ex- changing friendly salutations : he immediately went into the canoe of the chief, and presented him and his attendants with bread and wine, of which they par- took together, and " whereby the Indians were greatly content and satisfied." He then parted with them on the most satisfactory terms. At this dis- tance of time it is impossible not to feel great interest in Cartier's first interview with the Chiefof a country discovered by his perseverance and skill, and destined afterwards to be so celebrated in the annals both of France and England. As we have before mentioned the devout character of Cartier, it is not improbable that some strong religious feeling may have prompted his conduct on this occasion. It is also remarkable, and seems to corroborate the observation, that in this first interview he gave them no presents, reserving that for a future opportunity. Donnacona departed with the same state in which he came : while Cartier, having so far prosperously advanced towards the interior of an unknown country, became desirous of finding: a safe harbor for his ves- sels, then at anchor near the east end of the Isle of Orleans, He accordingly manned his boats, and went up the north shore against the stream, until he came to " a goodly and pleasant sound," and a " little river and haven" admirably adapted for his purpose. In this spot, after some necessary preparations, he safely moored his vessels on the 16th September ; and according to his devout and grateful custom, he nam the Dor hast his £ DEi As epocl be m of Ja( "ale sent c intere Then sant i basin Cartie name( tered v of the cording Boiies, missior andCh have ui bor ch( have as now cs St. La\ But it centurie recordin WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 45 ce, and the the white espect, he ;ed it upon t of amity ird in ex- itely went lim and his L they par- Jans were 3arted with t this dis- ?at interest fa country id destined lals both of mentioned improbable 2 prompted emarkable, that in this reserving :e in which •osperously n country, for his ves- jthe Isle of [boats, and I, until he id a " little lis purpose, lations, he jeptember ; pustom, he named the place the Port of St. Croix, in honor of the day on which he had first entered it ; and here Donnacona, with a retinue of five hundred persons hastened to pay him another friendly visit, to welcome his arrival in the territory. DESCRIPTION OF STADACONA, AND THE HARBOR OF ST. CROIX. As this event forms one of the most important epochs in the ancient history of the country, we shall be more particular in our account of the proceedings of Jacques Cartier ; and our sketch will now assume " a local habitation *■ familiar to all who at the pre- sent day are acquainted with the scene, and equally interesting, we trust, to the intelligent antiquarian. There can be no doubt, that the " goodly and plea- sant sound," above mentioned, was the beautiful basin of Quebec ; and that the place selected by Cartier for laying up his vessels, to which he gave the name of Port de SL Croix, and where he afterwards win- tered was in the Little River St. Charles, to the north of the city — which name it afterwards recelv^rd, ac- cording to La Potherie, in compliment to Charles des Boiies, Grand Vicar of Pontoise, founder of the first mission of Rccollets of New France. The old writers, and Charlevoix himself, as has been mentioned above, have unaccountably mistaken the locality of the har- bor chosen by Cartier ; and misled by the name, have asserted that it was at the entrance of the River now called Jacques Cartier, which flows into the St. Lawrence, about fifteen miles above Quebec. But it has been well observed, that although three centuries have elapsed since the incidents we are recording took place, the localities still remain un- 46 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, changeable, and may be easily recognised. The port of St. Croix is thus described by Cartier himself : " There is a goodly, fair, and delectable bay, or creek, convenient and ht ».o harbor ships ; hard by, there is in that river od^ place very narrow, deep, and swift running, but it is not the third part of a league, over against which there is a goodly high piece of land, with' a town therein, that is the place and abode of Donnacona : it is called Stadacona .... under which town towards the north, the river and port of the Holy Cross is, where we staid from the 15th September until the 6th May, 1536 ; and there our ships remained dry." There cannot be a more accurate description. The "one place" jn the River St. Lawrence, " deep and swift running," means of course that part immediately opposite the Lower Town ; and, no doubt, it appeared by compa- rison " very narrow" to those, who had hitherto seen our noble river only in its grandest forms. The town of Stadacona, the residence of the Chief, stood on that part of Quebec which is nov covered by the Suburbs of St. Roch, with part of hose of St. John, looking towards the St. Charles. TK"^ area or ground adjoining is thus described, as it no doubt appeared to Cartier three centuries ago : " as goodly a plot of ground as possible may be seen, and therewithal very fruitful, full of goodly trees even as in France, such as oaks, elms, ashes, walnut trees, maple trees, vines, and white thorns, that bring forth fruit as big as any damsons, and many other sorts of trees, under which groweth as fine tall hemp as any in France, without any seed, or any man's work or labor at all." The exact spot in the River St. Charles where Cartier moored his vessels, and where the people passed the winter, is supposed on good authority to have been WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 47 the site of the ohi bridge, called Dorchester Bridge, where there is a ford at low water, close to the Ma- rine Hospital. That it was on the east bank, not far from the residence of Charles Smith, Esquire, is evi- dent from the river having been frequently crossed by the natives coming from Stadacona to visit their French guests. To all who witness the present state of Quebec — its buildings, population and trade, em- ploying a thousand vessels — these early accounts handed down from the first European visitor must be full of interest, generally accurate as they are in description, but falling, how far, short of the natural beauty of the position ! DISCOVERY OF HOCHELAGA OR MONTREAL. The relations between the Fi-ench and Donnacona continued of the most friendly character, and not a day seems to have passed without some communica- tion between them. But the object of Jacques Car- tier was by no means attained, or his ambition satis- fied with the knowledge of Stadacona — he had re- ceived from the interpreters information of the existence of a city of much greater importance, the capital of an extensive kingdom, as they described it, situate at a considerable distance up the River of Canada. Thither he determined to proceed at all hazards, considering his voyage limited only by the discovery of Hochelaga. Undeterred by the late- ness of the season — deaf to the dissuasions of Don- nacona and the interpreters, with one of whom he had every reason to be dissatisfied, he having refused to accompany him further — the Indians had recourse to a device, a kind of masquerade, or pantomimic re- presentation, intended to produce fear in his mind as I'.' \l\ liiMi 48 NEW PICTURB OF QUEBEC, to the result of his expedition, either from the hosti- lity of the natives of Hochelaga, the dangers of the river, or the inclemency of the winter which was fast approaching. This ridiculous mummery was treated by Cartier with merited contempt. Charlevoix seems to think, that Donnacona was influenced by jealousy, lest he and his people should be deprived of the ad- vantages of an uninterrupted communication with the white strangers, from whom the Indians had, doubt- less, obtained so'eral presents, some of utility, others gratifying to their personal vanity. It is by no means improbable, however, that the Indians, who had given Cartier no reason to suspect their good faith, were perfectly sincere. An amusing incident is thus told in Hakluyt : — " Donnacona desired our captain to cause a piece of artillery to be shot off, because Taignoagny and Domagaia made great brags of it, and had told them marvellous things ; and also because they had never heard nor seen any before : to whom our captain answered, that he was content, and by and by he commanded his men to shoot off twelve cannon charged with bullets, into the wood thai was hard by those people and ships, at whose noise they were greatly astonished and amazed, for they thought that heaven had fallen upon them, and put themselves to flight, howling, crying and shrieking, so that it seemed hell had broken loose." On the 19th September, Cartier commenced his voyage to Hochelaga with his pinnace, the Herme- rillon, and two long boats, capable of holding thirty- five persons with arms, ammunition and provisions ; leaving his two larger vessels in the harbor of St. Croix, well protected by " poles and pikes driven into the water and set up" — but better by the stout WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 49 the hosti- rers of the ;h was fast vas treated voix seems y jealousy, of the ad- 3n with the ad, doubt- lity, others is by no dians, who their good rig incident desired our be shot off, made great JUS things ; DT seen any that he was his men to ullets, into and ships, liiished and had fallen lit, howling, Id hell had hearts of their gallant crews. His ascent of the river was prosperous, and he speaks of the scenery on both sides as extremely rich and beautifully varied, the country being well covered with tine timber and abundance of vines. The natives, with whom he had frequent communication, are represented as kind and hospitable, every where supplying him with all they possessed, the taking of fish being their principal occupation and means of subsistence. At Hochelai, now the Richelieu, they received a visit from the chief of the district, who also attempted to dissuade thein from proceeding further, and otherwise showed a friendly disposition : presenting Cartier with one of his own children, a girl of about seven years of age, whom he afterwards came to visit, together with his wife, during the wintering of the French at St. Croix. On the 28th they came to Lake St. Peter, where, owing to the shallowness of the water in one of the passages between the Islands, they thought it advisable to leave the pinnace. H. re they met five hunters, who, says Cartier, " freely and familiarly came to our boats without any fear, as if we had ever been brought up together. Our boats being somewhat near the shore, one of them took our captain in his arms and carried hitn on shore, and lightly and easily as if he had been a child of five years old, so strong and sturdy V/as this fel- low." On the 2nd October they approached Hochelaga, and were received by the natives there with every demonstration of joy and hospitality. " There came to meet us," says the relation, " above one thousand persons, men, women and children ; who afterward did as friendly and merrily entertain and receive us as any father would do his child, which he had not E 50 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ii,iii;:, ;■ of long time seen Our captain seeing their loving kindness and entertainment, caused all the women orderly to be set in array, and gave them beads made of tin, and other such trifles ; and to some of the men he gave kniv^es. Then he returned to the boats to supper, and so passed that night, all which while all those people stood on the shore as near our boats as they might, making great fires, and dancing very merrily." The place where Cartier first touched the land, near Hochelaga, appears to have been about six miles from the city, and below the current of St. Mary. On the 3rd October, having obtained the services of three natives as guides, Cartier, with ].is volunteers and part of his men, in full dnss, pro- ceeded to visit the town. The way was well beaten and frequented ; and he describes the country as the best that could possibly be seen. Hochelaga was situated in the midst of larire fields of Indian corn ; and from the description, must even then have been a very considerable place, and the metro- polis of the neighboring country. The name is now lost, but on its site standjs the rich and flourish- ing city of Montreal. It was encompassed by pali- sades, or probably a picket fence in three rows, one within the other, well secured and put together. A single entrance was secured with piles and stakes ; and every precaution adopted for defence against sudden attack or siege. The town consisted of about fifty houses, each fifty feet in length by fourteen in breadth, built of wood and covered with bark, " well and cunningly joined together^" Each house con- tained several chambers, built round an open court yard in the centre, where the fire was made. The inhabitants belonged to the Huron tribe, and appear WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 51 ing their I all the tve them ; and to returned night, all shore as fires, and the land, about six ent of St. tained the T, v'ith Ins dress, pro- veil beaten ntry as the lelaga was of Indian even then the metro- name is d flourish- ed by pali- rows, one rether. A Lud stakes ; ice aorainst to have been more than usually civilised. They were devoted to husbandry and fishing, and never roamed about the country as other tribes did, al- though they had eight or ten other villages subject to them. Cartier seems to have been considered in the light of a deity among them ; for they brought him their aged king, and their sick, in order that he might heal them. Disclaiming any such power, Cartier, with his accustomed piety prayed with them, and read part of the gospel of S't. John, to their great admiration and joy. He concluded by distributing presents with the utmost impartiality. < n reading the whole account, we cannot but be favorably impressed by the conduct and character of those Indians, so diffe- entfrom that of some other tribes, or the generality of savages. It is probable, however, that the fighting men or warriors of the tribe were absent on some ex- pedition. Cartier appears to have behaved on the occasion with great discretion, and to have shown himself eminently qualified for his station. After having seen all that was worthy of note in the city, he set out to examine the mountain, which was about three miles from Hochelaga. He describes it as tilled all round and very fertile. The beautiful view from the top does not escape his notice, and he states that he could see the country and the river for thirty leagues around him. He gave it the name of Mont Royal, wdiich was afterwards extended to the city beneath, and the whole of the rich and fertile Island, now MontreaL RETURNS to ST. CROIX. Cartier, having accomplished his object, returned to his boats accompanied by a great multitude, who 52 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, r when they perceived any of his men fatigued with their long march, took them upon their shoulders and carried them. The natives appeared grieved and displeased with the short stay of the French ; and on their departure, which was immediate, they followed their course along the banks of the river. On the evening of the 4th October, they came to the place where they had left the pinnace ; and having made sail on the 5th, they returned happily to St. Croix, rejoining their companions on the 11th of the month. The mariners who had been left behind had had the precaution, during the absence of Cartier, to entrench and fortify their vessels so as to defy attack. On the day after their return, Cartier was visited by the Chief, Donnacona, who invited the French to visit him at his village of Stadacona. Accordingly, on the 13th, Cartier proceeded with all his gentlemen and fifty mariners to their town, about three miles from the place where the ships were laid up. The houses were well provided, and full of all things necessary for the approaching winter : the inhabitants seemed docile, and in the words of Jacques Cartier, " as far as we could perceive and understand, it were a very easy thing to bring them to some familiarity and civility, and make them learn what one would.'* The country around is stated to be well tilled and wrought, and these Indians seem to have been by no means ignorant of agriculture, or deficient in energy to clear the land; for it is mentio»»ed that they had " pulled up the trees to till and abor the ground." e: e perc be e cust( they itself out dead, deed, raofe preca the the ceivec were f and th were r The this wi logiqu( Novem St. Chi informe over as 1536, tl canoes, firm in 15 his vess( the mod cessary j On th tertained WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 53 d witli ers and ed and and on followed On the he place ig made t. Croix, B month, had had irtief, to fy attack, dsited by ^'rench to jordingly, ;enilemen iree miles bp. The ill things habitants Cartier, it were amiliarity would." tilled and I been by cient in ned that ibor the »j DISASTROUS WINTER OF 1536 — RETURN TO FRANCE. The whole voyage of Cartier had been so far pros- perous, but the winter, new to Europeans, was yet to be experienced. Their want of fit clothing and ac- customed nourishment was probably the reason why they were attacked with scurvy, which first showed itself in the month of December. In March, 1536, out of one hundred and ten persons, twenty-five were dead, and not three remained in health. Great, in- deed, as must have been their sufferings, their cou- raofe seems never to Juive deserted tliem ; and the precautions taken by Cartier to conceal his loss and the extreme weakness of the garrison, as we may call the entrenchment round the ships, were well con- ceived and proved quite successful. At length they were persuaded to use a decoction of the spruce fir ; and the effect was so instantaneous that in six days all were recovered. The following facts, relative to the climate during this winter, are gathered from the " Pastes Chrono- logiques," and are worthy of notice. On the 15th November, 1535, old style, the vessels in the River St. Charles were surrounded by ice ; and the Indians informed Cartier, that the whole river was frozen over as far as Montreal. On the 22nd February, 1536, the River St. Lawrence became navigable for canoes, opposite to Quebec, but the ice remained firm in St. Croix harbor. On the 5th April, however, his vessels were disengaged from the ice. To obtain the modern dates of these occurrences, it will be ne- cessary to add eleven days to each period. On the 21st April, Cartier seems first to have en- tertained suspicion of the intentions of the Indians^ £ 2 !: r I li i 54 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, from the circumstance of a number of " lusty and strong men whom they were not wont to see," mak- ing their appearance at Stadacona. They were pro- bably the young hunters of the tribe who had been out during the winter, in search of deer ; and who had not previously fallen under the observation of the French. Cartier having determined on an immediate return to France, resolved to anticipate the move- ments of the Indians by a coup de main on his part ; and accordingly on the 3d May, and in a manner which not even the extreme urgency of the case could excuse or palliate, he carried his plan into execution ; and. seized Donnacona, the interpreters, and two other Indians of note, for the purpose of presenting them to the King. They were treated, however, with much kindness, and seem to have been soon re- conciled to their lot. Nothing now remained but to make sail for France, which they did on the 6th May. They were com- pelled to remain by contrary \^inds at the Isle au^: Coadres until the 2 1st, and afterwards coasting slowly along, they finally sailed from Cape Race on the 19th June ; and arriving at St. Malo on the 6th July, 1536, they concluded this important voyage. if ,1'f WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 55 CHAPTER THE FOURTH. sn soon re- HISTORICAL SKETCH CONTINUED. THIRD VOYAGE OF JACQUES CARTIER — AND OF ROBERVAL. If, among the perilous and adventurous occupa- tions of active life, there is one requiring more energy, skill, courage and patient endurance than another, it is when man, in a fragile skiff, comparatively a nut- shel — subject to dissolution ^nd destruction from a thousand unforeseen accidents — not only entrusts himself to the mighty and mysterious deep, a slave to the elements and the sport of the waves ; -but fired by love of science and ambition of discovery, tempts the secret dangers of an unproved climate, and commits himself to the natives of a barbarous shore, where a single act of indiscretion on his part, or of suspicion on theirs — either open violence or secret treachery, would be alike fatal to his return ! How long is the catalogue of scientific and enterprising travellers who have fallen victims to the cause of discovery ! Cook — Park — Belzoni — Burckhart — Denham — Clapperton, and Laing have perished for science and for fame ; but in a great soul it is the cause which conquers all personal considerations — and though the lives of dis- coverers are sacrificed, science is still on the advance. New competitors spring up, undeterred by the fate of those who went before, and rivals of their fame ; and as if it were destined that the unknown of the world should be revealed — the present age has wit- •*}%- 56 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, jllli "i -i ..iS 11'^^ ; nessedwith admiration the intrepid Lander, and the patient, highminded Ross, penetrating with equal de- termination into the Arctic highlands, and the torrid shores of Africa ! A race of people, living in a fro- zen region, and under a degree of cold, once suppos- ed to be fatal to vegetation and to life, yet possessing all the aiTeetions of humanity, has been discovered by the one — while a new outlet for the fructifying com- merce of Great Britain is likely to be afforded by the operations of the other. To return from this digression. Notwithstanding that in the discovery of Canada by Jacques Cartier, the love of science had but little share, the operations of which we are treating undoubtedly applied a stimu- lus to geographical researches, and were decisive of future improvement. But although really of such magnitude and importance, their result does not seem to have satisfied general expectation on the part of the French nation. The common people affected to treat lightly the acquisition of a country whence nei- ther gold or silver could be '^r.iracted — but for the honor of the French name and of science, there were persons attached to the Court who thought differently, and who were not to be deterred by the failure of one or two attempts. They justly considered that the possession of New France was not to be lightly relin- quished — and they listened favorably to the accounts given by Cartier, who always represented the lands as highly fertile, the climate salubrious, and the in- habitants docile, kind and hospitable. He represen- ted above all, what had the most powerful influence upon his own mind, the glory of converting the na- tives to the true faith ; as worthy of a Prince who bore the titles of the most Christian king, and of the eldest son of the Church. The presence of the Indian chief great \ anxic arrivt tised been sensa conve reborn counti lived in wli whom one lit than of in En< the Sai Amo attempi Franco of hijO'h and wh and dis and tale letters p ing him under tli and Lie guenay, upon hii authorit named s General were "t former v WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 57 and the ?qual de- he torrid in a fro- ? suppos- ossessing jvered by ing com- orded by listanding 5 Car tier, operations d a stimu- lecisive of Y of such not seem le part of iffected to lence nei- for the lere were fferently, Te of one that the tly relin- accounts the lands d the in- epresen- linfluence the na- nce who d of the e Indian chief, Donnacona, and his companions, no doubt greatly aidod his representations. The reader will be anxious to know the fate of these Indians after their arrival in France. It appears that they were bap- tised at their own desire and request ; and having been introduced at Court, produced an extraordinary sensation. Cartier states, that Francis I. frequently converseH with Donnacona, who appears to have cor- roborated all that had been stated respecting the country. These natives, however, were not long lived : they pined away in the new state of society in which they v/ere placed ; and of ten in number whom Cartier brought over, all died in Brittany, save one little girl. Probably, the change of diet, rather than of climate, proved fatal to them : as it did recently in England ii the case of the King '^nd Queen of the Sandwicli Islands. Among those who were anxious to make another attempt to establish a colony in Canada, was Jean Fran(^ois de ia Uoque, Lord of Roberval, a gentleman of high reputation in his native province of Picardy ; and who appears to have been familiarly known to and distinguished by Francis, as a man of bravery and talent. He solicited and obtained from the King, letters patent, dated the 15th January, 1541, appoint- ing him to the command of an expedition of discovery, under the high sounding, but empty titles, of Viceroy and Lieutenant General in Canada, Hochelaga, Sa- guenay, Newfoundland, Belleisle, &c.; and conferring upon him in those countries the same powers and authority which he himself possessed. Cartier was named second in command, with the title of Captain General and leader of the ships. Their instructions were " to discover more than was done before in the former voyages, and attain, (if were possible,) unto I "I ' i> I. 58 NEW FIGURE OF QUEBEC, the knowledge of the country of Tjaguenay," where the French still fondly hoped that the precious metals might be discovered. The port of St. Malo, whence the two former voyages had been undertaken, was again chosen for fitting out the expedition. It has been stated in a recent publication, that " the king would listen to no proposals for the establishment of a colony ;" and that it was reserved for " private adventure to accomplish that which had been neglec- ted by royal muniiicence." We find, however, in Hakluyt's account of the third voyage of Jacques Cai % f^'rect evidence, tending to vindicate Francis I. Wi lu d hitherto been the constant friend of ma- ritime advci. ire, from the charge of apathy and indiiference on this occasion. " The king," says this relation, " caused a certain sum of money to be delivered, to furnish out the said voyage ^ith five ships, which thing was performed by the said Mon- sieur Roberval and Cartier." The latter, having with all diligence fitted out the five vessels at St. Malo, expected the coming of Roberval with arms, ammunition and other stores which he had engaged to provide elsewhere. This gentleman, who was opulent, had indeed contracted to furnish two other vessels at his own charges, to be fitted out at Honfleur : whither he proceeded in order to expedite the equipment. Another proof of the interest taken by the King in this expedition is found in the fact, related by Cartier, that while he was waiting the coming of Roberval, at St. Malo, he received a positive command from Francis to depart immediately without the Viceroy, on pain of his dis- pleasure. Accordingly, Roberval gave him full power and authority to act as if he himself were present ; and promised to follow with all necessary supplies is ;B :■ WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 59 from Honfleur. Having victualled the fleet for two years, Cartier sailed on the 23d May, 1541 ; but as before, storms and contrary winds dispersed the ships, which nevertheless at the end of a month reached the place of rendezvous on the coast of Newfoundland, Here they delayed so lon<^ in expectation of being joined by Iloberval, that it was not until the expira- tion of three months from the time of sailing, that he reached his former station in the harbor of St. Croix, whence he had taken Donnaconaa few years before. Almost all the old accou its, which are singularly con- fused and incorrect, mention that Cartier fixed his establishment on his third voyage in Cape Breton ; and they are silent as to this lii> secon ' visit to Canada. But the third relation of Jacqut;: v artier, to he found in Hakluyt, is conclusive on his point: " We arrived not," says he, " before the haven of St. Croix, in Canada, (where in the formtr voyage we had remained eight months,) until th*? 2r'3d day of August." Nothing can be clearer than this descrip- tion : indeed there is no part of the ancient history of tlie country better developed, than the proceedings of Cartier on his third voyage. He constantly refers to the experience he had gained, and to circumstances which happened on his former visit ; so that it is matter of surprise that any misconception should have existed as to the scene of his last operations in the St. Lawrence. Immediately on the arrival of the French at St. Croix, the Indians thronged to see them ; and appa- rently welcomed them with every token of satisfaction. The person who had succeeded to the dignity of chief, paid Cartier a visit of ceremony with seven canoes, and made enquiries after the absent Don- nacona. The Captain readily acknowledged the 60 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, \'il :'i death of that chief in France, but from prudential motives, concealed that of the other Indians : account- ing for their absence by saying, " thaJ; the rest staid there as great lords, and were married, and would not return back unto their country," Although no emo- tion of anger or surprise was perceivable in the countenance or manner of the Indians, on receiving this information — and it would have been derogatory to their character to evince any — it was evident that they began from that time to regard their former friends with distrust and dislike^ They naturally anticipated that a fresh supply of natives would be required by these insatiable strangers — that the scene of the capture of Donnacona would be repeated — and they looked forward to the result with dismal fore- bodings. Cartier, having for some reason become dissatisfied with his former position at St. Croix, probably from the altered behavioiir of the natives of Stadacona, selected, on the 26th August, another station at the mouth of a little river, between three and four leagues higher up the St. Lawrence, where he laid up three out of the five vessels he had brought with him from France. Here he gave directions for construct- ing two forts, one at the bottom of the cliff, on a level with the water ; and another on the high land or point above, with a communication by means of stairs cut in the solid rock. This fort he called Charles- bourg Royal. The other two vessels remained in the road at the mouth of the river, until the '2nd Sep- tember; when they sailed for St. Malo, under the command of his brother-in-law and nephew, both excellent pilots. By them he transmitted letters, informing the King of what had been done, and of the non-arrival of Koberval. Having witnessed the coin- no w c and Li posed supply tained as well above i iie had first raj the nat who tre whom t appears WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. il irudential account- rest staid would not [\ no emo- le in the receiving lerogatory adent that eir former r naturally s would be it the scene gated— and lismal fore- mencement of the two forts, and appointed tlie Viscount de Beaupre to the command in his absence, Cartier resolved to carry into effect, as far as possible, the ulterior objects of the expedition ; and he accord- ingly proceeded, on the 7th September, with two boats, for the purpose of examining the Saults or Rapids above Hochelaga, which he believed were to be passed on the way to Saguenay — " in order that he might be the readier in the spring to pass farther, and in the winter time to make all things needful in readiness for the business." On his way up the River St. Lawrence, he did not fail to pay a visit to the hospitable chief of Hochelai, now the Richelieu, to whom in remembrance of his former friendship and services, among other presents, he gave two young boys, that they might learn the language. With a fair wind they arrived at the first Sault above Hoche- laga on the 11th September ; and having in vain endeavored to pass it in one of the boats doubly manned, they landed and found a portage, which conducted them to the second Sault. These Saults are described as three in number ; and form what is now called the Sault St. Louis, between Montreal and Lachine. They found the inhabitants well dis- posed and hospitable, serving them as guides and supplying them with pottage and fish. Having ob- tained all the information he could extract by signs as well as words, and having been told of a great Lake above the Saults, Cartier returned to the place where he had left the boats at the commencement of the first rapid. Here they found a large concourse of the natives to the amount of about four hundred, who treated them in a friendly mannei: ; and with whom they exchanged presents. Cartier, however, appears now to have distrusted the Indians whenever I i I I* 1;' tiVii 62 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, they appeared in numbers ; and satisfied with the knowledge he had acquired of the rapids, he prepared to return to the winter quarters at Charlesbourg" Royal. On the descent of the river, he again stopped at the dwelling of the Chief of Hochelai, who was absent at Stadaconr ; whither, as Cartier afterwards found, he had proceeded to concert with the other tribe what they should do against the French. HE WINTERS AT CAP ROUGE. We now come to another highly interesting portion of local history. It has been stated that the old his- torians were apparently ignorant of this last voyage of Cartier. Some place the establishment of the fort at Cape Breton, and confound his proceedings with those of Roberval. The exact spot where Cartier passed his second winter in Canada is not mentioned in any publication that we have seen. The fol- lowing is the description given of the station in Hakluyt : ** After which things, the said captain went with two of his boats up the river, beyond Canada" — the promontory of Quebec is meant — " and the port of St. Croix, to view a haven and a small river which is about four leagues higher ; which he found better and more commodious to ride in, and lay his ships, than the former The said river is small, not passing fifty paces broad, and ships drawing three fathoms water may ente in at full sea ; and at low water there is nothing but a channel of a foot deep or thereabout The mouth of the river is towards the south, and it windeth northward like a snake ; and at the mouth of it towards the east there is a high and steep cliff, where we made a way in manner of a pair of stairs, and aloft we made a appeal spot, ( of Qiu probat and re On the sus sition ( formed fort, am as befo who ha( of India he alw. with an take all" in the fc WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 63 witli the prepared rlesbourg n stopped who was ifterwards the other ch. Ingj portion he old his- last voyage of the fort idings with ere Cartier ; mentioned I The fol- station in aid captain er, beyond IS meant — laven and a her; which to ride in, The said \, and ships in at full ut a channel louth of the northward ,rds the east . ade a way we made a fort to keep the nether fort and the ships, and all things that might pass as well by the great as by this small river." Who that reads the above accurate description will doubt, that the mouth of the little river C^ap Rouge was the station chosen by Jacques Cartier, ior his second wintering place in Canada? The original description of the grounds and scenery on both sides of the River Cap Rouge is 'equally faithful, with that which we have extracted -ibove. The precise spot on which the upper fort of Jacques Cartier was built, aftervards enlarged by Roberval, has been fixed by an ingenious gentleman of Quebec, at the top of Cap Rouge height, a short distance from the handsome villa and establishment of Henry Atkinson, Esquire. There is at the distance of about an acre to the north of Mr. Atkinson's house a hillock of artificial construction, upon which are trees indicating great antiquity ; and as it does not appear that any fortifications were erected on this spot, either in the war of 1759, or during the attack of Quebec by the Americans in 1775, it is extremely probable that here are to be found the interesting site and remains of the ancient fort in question. On his return to the Fort of Charlesbourg Royal, the suspicions of Cartier as to the unfriendly dispo- sition of the Indians were confirmed. He was in- formed that the natives now kept aloof from the fort, and had ceased to bring them fish and provisions as before. He also learned from some of the men who had been at Stadacona, that an unusual number of Indians had assembled there — ^and associating, as he alwc vs seems to have done, the idea of danger with any concourse of the natives, he resolved to take all necessary precautions, causing every thing in the fortress to be set in order. iU mm ! t; n mi 64 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, At this crisis, to the reg^ret of all who feel an inte- rest in the local history of the time, tlie relation of Cartier's third voyage abruptly breaks off. Of the proceeding's during the winter which he spent at Cap Rouge, nothing is known. It is probable that it passed over without any collision with the natives, although the position of the French, from their nu- merical weakness, must have been attended with great anxiety. VOYAGE OF ROBERVAL — RETURN OF JACQUES CARTIER TO FRANCE. It has been seen that Roberval, notwithstanding his lofty titles, and really enterprising character, did mot fulill his engagement to follow Cartier with sup- plies sufficient for the settlement of a colony, until the year follovring. By that time the Lieutenant General had furnished three large vessels chiefly at the King's cost, having on board two hundred persons, several gentlemen ol quality, and settlers, both men and women. He sailed from Rochelle on the 16th April, 1542, under the direction of an experienced pilot, by name John Alphonse, of Xaintonge. The prevalence of westerly winds prevented their reach- ing >Jevvfoundland until the 7th June. Oti the 8th they entered the road of St. Jolin.^ M'here they found seventeen vessels engaged in the fisheries. During his stay in this road, he was surprised and disappointed by the appearance of Jacques Cartier, on his return from Canada, whither he had been sent the year before witli live ships. Cartier had passed the winter at tlie fortress described above; mid gave as a reason for the abandonment tif the settlement, " that lie could not wil;h his small company withstand the savages whic tinu< rich Kol)^ gold ill a : also prom its na so str the so go ba is mo passer penni and til fond I Uire ; perfor had en hardsh to pre\ anchor leave < inipossi termim turned Roherv is most destinei took no complei wa> ext Jacques have tixl K' WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 65 I an inte- jlation of Of tlie nt at Cap e that it i natives, their nu« ided with LCQUES hstanding racter, did with sup- ony, until Laeutenant chiefly at id persons, both men the I6th perienced ige. The lieir reach- hn the 8th lliey found .Juring his pointed by turn from ?ar before it;er at the eason for ,t he couhi e savages i which went about daily to annoy him." He con- tinued, nevertheless, to speak of the country as very rich and fruitful. Cartier is said, in the relation of llohervars voyage in Hakluyt, to have produced some gold ore found in the country, which on being tried in a furnace, proved to be ^ood. He had with liim also some diamonds^ the natural production of the promontory of Quebec, from which the Cape derived its name. Tlie Lieutenant General having brought so stronof a reinforcement of men and necessaries for the settlement, was extremely urgent with Cartier to go back again to Cap Rouge, but without success. It is most probable that the French, who ha*', recently passed a winte' of hards'iip in Canada,, would not permit their f^«ptain to attach himself to the fortunes and the particuhir views of Robervah Perhaps, the fond regret of home prevailed over the love of adven- ture ; and like men who conceived that tliey had performed their part of the contraci' into which they had entered, they were not disposed to encounter new hardships under a new leader. In order, therefore, to prevent any 0{)en disi^greement, Cartier weighed anchor in the course of the night, and vithout taking leave of Roberval, made all sail for FVance. It is impossible not to regret this somewhiit inglorious termination of a distinguished career. Had he re- turned to his fort, with the additional strength of Roberval, guided by his own skill and experience, it is most probable that the colony would have been destined to a permanent existence. Ca'tier under- took no other voyage to Canada ; biit lie afterwards complefed a sea chart, drawn by his own hand, which wa> extant in the possession of one of his nephews, Jacques Noel, of St. Malo, in 1587 : who seems to have taken great interest in the further developement F 2 V >1 • ' , ■ t ') 4 '4 ; 66 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, !|i,; ll !!' Ml \\ I of the vast country discovered by his deceased uncle. Two letters of his have been preserved, relating to the maps and writings of Cartier : the first written in 1587, and the other a year or two later, in which he mentions that his two sons, Michael and John Noel, were then in Canada, and that he was in ex- pectation of their return. Cartier himself died soon after his return to France, having sacrificed his for- tune in the cause of discovery. As an indemnification for the losses their uncle had sustained, this Jacques Noiil and another nephew, De la Launay Chaton, re- ceived in 1588, an exclusive privilege to trade to Canada during twelve years; but this was revoked four months after it was granted. Roberval, notwithstanding his mortification at the loss of Cartier*s experience and aid in his undertaking, determined to proceed ; and sailing from Newfound- land about the end of June, 1543, he arrived at Cap Rouge, " four leagues westward of the Isle of Orleans," towards the end of July. Here the French immediately fortified themselves, "inaplace fit to com- mand the main river, and of strong situation against all manner of enemies." The position was no doubt that chosen by Jacques Cartier the year previous. The following is the description given in Hakluyt of the buildings erected by Roberval : " The said Gene- ral on his first arrival built a fair fort, near and some- what westward above Canada, vi'hich is very beautiful to behold, and of gref*t force, situated upon a high mountain, wherein there were two courts of buildings, a great tower, ard another of forty or fifty feet long, wherein there wtre divers chambers, an hall, a kit- chen, cellars high and low, and near unto it were an oven and mills, and a stove to warm men in, and a well before the house. And the building was situated i ■ Ifr: WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. m 3d uncle, ilating to : written in which ind John as in ex- died soon \ his for- mification s Jacques haton, re- trade to looked four ion at the dertaking, Newfound- arrived at the Isle of he French fit to com- on against s no doubt previous, akluyt of iaid Gene- land some- beautiful on a high buildings, feet long, [all, a kit- it were an in, and a las situated upon the great River of Canada called France-Prime by Monsieur Roberval. There was also at the foot of the mountain another lodging, where at the first all our victuals, and whatsoever was brought with us was sent to be kept, and near unto that tower there is another small river. In these two places above and beneath, all the meaner sort was lodged." This fort was called France-Roy ; but of these extensive build- ings, erected most probably in a hasty and iiiartificial manner, no traces now remain, unless we consider as such the mound above mentioned, near the residence of Mr. Atkinson, at Cap Rouge. On the 14lh September, Roberval sent back to France two of his vessels, with two gentlemen, bearers of letters to the King ; who had instructions to return the following year with supplies for the settlement. The natives do not appear, by the relation given, to have evinced any hostility to the new settlers. Unfor- tunately, the scurvy again made its appearance among the French ; and carried off no less than fifty dur- ing the winter. The morality of this little colony was not very rigid — perhaps they were pressed by hunger, and induced to plunder from each other — at all events the severity of the Viceroy towards his handful of subjects appears not to have been restricted to the male sex. The method adopted by the Governor to secure a quiet life will raise a smile : " Monsieur Roberval used very good justice, and punished every man according to his offence. One whose name was Michael Gaillon, was hanged for his theft. John of Nantes was laid in irons, and kept prisoner for his offenco ; ar. ^ others also ^irere put in irons, and divers wer« whipped, as well men as women : by which means they lived in quiet." ;' la 68 NEW PICTURE Ot QUEBEC, tl We have no record extant of the ether proceedirigs of Roberval during the winter of 154ti. Thj} Ic*^ broke lip in the month of April ; and on the 3th Juvu\, the Lieutenant General departed from the winter 'quar- ters on an exploring expedition to the 1 rovince of Saguenay, as Cartier had done on a former occasion. Thirty persons were left behind in the fort under the command of an Olfficer^ with instructions to return to France, if he had not returned by the 1st July. There are no particulars of this expedition, on which, however, Roberval employed a considera- ble time. For we find that on the 14th June, four of the gentlemen belonging to the expedition returned to the foi':, having left Roberval on the way to Sa- guenay ; and on the 19th, some others came back, bringing with them six score weight of Indian corn ; and directions for the rest to wait for the return of the Viceroy, until the 22d July. An accident happened in this expedition, which seems to have cf/aped the notice of the author of the treatise on the Canon de bronze^ whioh we have noticed in a former chapter. It certainly gives an authentic account of a shipwreck having been suffered in the St. Lawrenct : to which, perhaps, the finding of the cannon, and iUs tradition about Jacques Cartier, may with some probability be referred. The follov. ^ne River St. Lawrence, and of the channel from sea. He is said to have examined the coast of North America as hi^h as latitude 52°5 in search of a passage to the East Indies. We have already said that great uncertainty and contradiction exist in the different historical accounts of Cartier's third voyage, and the expedition of Ro- berval. Our account is founded on the relation of these two voyages in Hakluyt's collection, carefully examined and compared with other authorities. The antiquarian will be satisfied with the earlier no- tices of Canada ; but it is to be lamented that the accounts of the two last winters, passed among the Indians by Cartier and Roberval, have not been pre- served. Up to this time no progress whatsoever seems to have been made in the civilisation of the country ; and the different expeditions appear to have been limited to the occupation of a particular spot during the winter, and a fruitless exploration of the route to the imaginary golden region, during the period of open navigation. Roberval returned to France in 1543 ; and ani- mated by the duty which he owed to the King, on the war again breaking out between the Emperor Charles V. and Francis I. his active disposition ie^. him back to the profession of arms. He distinguished himself in this war, as he had done on many previous occasions. After the death of his royal Patron, in 1547, having got together a band of enterprising men, ho embarked again for Canada in 1549, with his brother Achilie, who was reputed one of the bravest warriors in France, and who was honorably named by Francis I. n *? iii;; .. ;,,, 1 1 Jl 70 KEW iSCTlJRE OF QUEBEC, 'Le Gendarme d'AnnihaL In this voyage all these gallant men perished, or were never afterwards heard of ; and with them says Charlevoix, feil every hope of an establishment in America, since no one could flatter himself with the expectation of being more fortunate than these two brave adventurers. ■ t.i,-''.'*/' HISTOl OF ( R( OF ] The longer cils. ' the dej Englar whose ] hies ai Domes exploit France tention, the adv direct i influenc liad ma( fertility celebrat the liu^ of Franc view of extendi I bined a home, both the WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 71 all these irds heard very hope one could eing more | 5. CHAPTER THE FIFTH. HISTORICAL SKETCH CONTINUED. GRAND PROJECT OF COLIGNY. SETTLEMENT IN FRENCH FLORIDA ROMANTIC STORY OF DE GOURGUES. VOYAGE OF LA ROCHE PONTGRAVE*. The gallant and enterprising spirit of Francis I. no longer predominated in the French Court and coun- cils. That monarch died in 1547, two months after the death of his friend and rival, Henry VIII., of England. Fie was succeeded by Henry the IL. in whose reign commenced the civil and religious trou- bles arising from the persecution of the Huguenots. Domestic convulsion is always favorable to maritime exploit ; and owing to the internal condition of France, America continued to be regarded with at- tention. Checked, however, by the ill-success of the adventurers in the north, the French began to direct their views towards a more southern latitude, influenced by the reports of some French sailors, who had made a voyage to Brazil, the riches, beauty and fertility of which country they greatly vaunted. The celebrated Gaspard de Cgligny, early attached to the Huguenot doctrines, had been ap|)ointed Admiral of France, by Henry II., in 1.552. With the political view of aggrandizing the power of France, and of extending her name and institutions abroad, he com- bined a patriotic desire to secure her tranquillity at home. He saw no readier means of accomplishing both these ends, than to found a series of colonies 79. NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, r 'j '^0 composed entirely of persons of his own persuasion, where the doctrines of the Reformed Church, pro- scribed and persecuted in France, might be perpetu- ated in a new world ; — and where a place of refuge might be secured, should the political persecution of the age compel him to relinquish his native land. There is every reason to believe that this grand scheme extended to the projected colonization of the shores of the St. Lawrence on the one hand, and of the Missisippi on the other. The political effects of such apian, if it were possible to carry it into execu- tion, might have been well anticipated by Coligny : a single glance at the map of North America will show with what a gigantic grasp a colonization, gradually extending itself along the banks of those two great rivers, would have hemmed in all the future settle- ments on the Atlantic shores, between the Gulf of St. Lawrence and that of Mexico. Giving way to the prejudice in favor of Brazil, Coligny at first proposed to the King the establish- ment of a colony upon that coast. The project was approved, and Nicholas Durand de Villegagnon, Knight of St. John of Jerusalem, and Vice Admiral of Brittany, was appointed to the command. This expedition entirely failed ; but amidst the raging of the civil wars of France under the reigns of Francis IL and Charles IX., Coligny, who had put himself at the head of the Calvinists, found leisure to resume his project of a settlement in America. He now turned his attention to Florida, which had been seen by Verazzano ; and where the fertility of the soil, and the goodness of the climate held out every pros- pect of success. The River Mississippi had been discovered by Ferdinand de Soto, about the period of the last voyage of Jacques Cartier ; and the Spa- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 73 ersuasion, irch, pro- ; perpetu- of refuge ecution of Ltive land, his grand tion of the id, and of lI effects of nto execii- r Coligny : ;a will show , gradually B two great ture settle - the Gulf of establish- )roject was llegagnon, Admiral and. This raging of of Francis put himself e to resume He now i been seen of the soil, every pros- i had been the period id the Spa- ZQ \Q niards claimed the territory. Coligny, however, about the year 1562, obtained permission from Char- les IX. to make an attempt towards establishing a colony in Florida, which the King was the more ready to grant, inasmuch as the Huguenots were his bitterest enemies ; and he hoped thus to free himself from some of the turbulent spirits of the age. Ac- cordingly, on the 18th February, 1562, Jean de llibaut, a zealous Huguenot, sailed from Dieppe with two vessels, and a chosen crew. Having arrived on the ccast of Florida, about St. Mary's River, he suc- ceeded in establishing a settlement, and built a fort. Two years afterwards, Coligny sent out a reinforce- ment under the command of Rene de Laudonniere, in which Charlevoix takes care to record, there was not a single catholic. It appears from different au- thorities that Coligny had the great project we have alluded to much at heart ; but although the settlement in Florida was the only part of the scheme which was carried into effect, it was after a few years abandoned, perhaps in consequence of Coligny's death. The survivors of this colony, after sanguinary wars with the Spaniards, accompanied by various romantic in- cidents, finally returned to France in 1568. Although no attempt was made to colonize any part of Canada during nearly fifty years after the loss of Roberval, in 1550, — with the exception of the fishing voyages to the banks of Newfoundland, and that of the two grand nephews of Jacques Cartier in 1588 — there can be no doubt that the project of Coligny outlived that distinguished patriot, that it had been commu- nicated to the principal Calvinists of France, and was by no means lost in oblivion. We shall find that several of the leaders of the subsequent expeditions of trade and discovery, both to Canada and Acadie, G 1)1 ■4 ,111 74 NEW PICTURE OF gUEBEC, I I> were Huguenots, up to the time of Cliamplaiii. A dilTerent policy was then adopted, by the advice of that zealous Catholic ; and the French determined to lay the foundation of their dominion over ihe Indians in the influence of the European priesthood. A part of that system was necessarily to exclude the Huguenots, and not to allow in any form a division in the influence of the white man over the red man, by showing that the former were not altogether agreed in all points of the religion, which theii red brethren were called to adopt. The consequence was that, in 1627, the Huguenots in Canada were not allowed the free exercise of their religion, as sti- pulated by the convention entered into with Coligny by Charles IX. The fate of Gaspard de Coligny, and the horrid massacre of St. Bartholomew's day, 157*2, are too well known. The base, unnatural treachery of the King, who at the moment when he was plotting the assassination of the Admiral, had the execrable hypo- crisy to address him by the name oi father, has covered the memory of that prince with an immor- tality of infamy ! Coligny fell basely murdered by a menial hand in his own house. His corpse was cast out of the window, the head struck oft*, and the body suspended by the feet from a gibbet. Such, in times of passion and religious persecution, now happily unknown, was the end of a man who was in advance of his age — who sought only to obtain liberty of conscience for himself, [ nd for those who professed tho same tenets. It was with the reluctance of a patriot, that he was compelled to seek it amidst the horrors of civil war. Well might it have been said at the time — ii.ii ij WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 75 Excidat ilia dies levo, ne postera credaot &>u;cula I Let this pernicious hour Staud aye accursed in the calendar! ROMANTIC STORY OF THE CHEVALIER DE ' GOURGUES. Although an account of the settlements made by the French, under the encouragement of Coligny, on the coast of Florida, does not strictly belong to the present subject, it would be unpardonable, in our his- torical recollections, to pass over the singular and chi- valrous story of the Chevalier de Gourgues : which is much less generally known than it deserves, as ex- hibiting all the devotion of ancient heroism, and as a striking example of the ruling passion surviving the softening operation of time, and triumphing finally over every impediment. The French and Spaniards had been long at bitter enmity ; and the wars between them were carried on with all the exasperation of ancient rivalry and mutual hatred. The encroachments of the former upon the territories claimed by the Spaniards in Florida, raised the liveliest indignation in the minds of a people not less martial and chivalrous than the French ; — and when Vie add that these encroachments had been chiefly made by the Piuguenots, a race held in sove- reign detestation by the Catholic Spaniard, and per- secuted to a degree of intensity by Philip II., the height of animosity to which they were excited can easily be conceived. No were the French less sus- ceptible of angry and vindictive feelings ; to which may be added the poignant stings of offended na- tional pride. They had never forgiven the captivity G 2 IH »* • in 1m ti m 'iu V^, ^ ^. V] <^ /i 7 'c-1 7 >^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 2.5 IM 12.2 I 1.25 11= U III 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation J •\SS ^ % ms ^ V '%' 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 r.^^ ^^^ ^.^ ^:^ 6^ .v^ &j r =^^"^0 f ■^ k<^ .'! .,■ \\i' i i!l«; ai'i!: Ji, 76 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, of their popular and gallant Prince, Francis I. ; — the me^nory of this supposed disgrace still rankled in the population — nor was it ever wholly eradicated, until adequate reparation was made to the national honor, by the accession of a French Prince to the throne of Spain, many years afterwards. Notwithstanding a short cessation of the warfare between these two great powers, the passions we have attempted to describe remained in full force. Laudonniere passed the winter of 1564 in the fort whirh he had built near the mouth of 3t. Mary's River, and which he called La Caroline. In August 1565, having experienced the mutinous disposition of part of his force, superadded to the horrors of famine, he was preparing to abandon the enterprise, and to return to France, when he was joined by Ribaut with seasonable supplies. On the 4th September, they were surprised by the appearance in tlie road of six large vessels, which proved to be a Spanish fleet, under the command of Don Pedro Menendez, Hos- tilities were immediately commenced; and the French, having an inferior force of four vessels, were obliged to put to sea, chased by the Spaniards. The former, liowever, being the' better sailors, after distancing their opponents, returned to the coast, and re-landed their troops about eight leagues i;om the fort of La Caroline. Three of the Spanish vessels kept the open sea, while the others lay in the road watching an opportunity to attack the French fort. Hibaut, who was a brave but obstinate man, persisted in his resolution to put out to sea again for the purpose of meeting and fighting with the Spanish vessels. I'he season was extremely tempestuous, and Laudon- niere, having first vainly endeavored to dissuade his colleague from the rash attempt, fortified himself; WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 77 I. ; — the ed in the ted, until lal honor, throne of tanding a two great ) describe 64 in the :t. Mary's [n August position of of famine, se, and to Libaut with nber, they 'oad of six nish fleet, ez, Hos- |he French, re obliged he former, distancing |l re-landed fort of La kept the |d watching Uibaut, sted in his |lic purpose sh vessels. d Laudon- o dissuade d. himself ; and made every preparation to resist the attack which he anticipated. At length, notwithstanding the very heavy and long continued rains, the Spaniards were descried by the French sentinels advancing to the assault on the 20th September. The ramparts, main- tained with spirit by a small force, were soon sur- mounted and carried — the gallant defenders slain in the breaches. Laudonniere, fighting his way bravely, was the last to leave the fort, and succeeded in escap- ing to the woods ; where he rallied a few of his straggling countrymen, and whence he ultimat( ly returned to France, The remainder, with the fort, fell into the hands of the Spaniards. Nor did the disasters of the French end here. The vessels commanded by Ribaut were driven on shore by the storms then prevalent — many of the people lost — the survivors and their commander became prisoners to the Spaniards. The French were cruelly, and with bitter taunts, put to death. Se 'eral were hung from the neighbouring trees with this insulting leiJ^md — " Ccux-ci n'ont pas ete tralte de la sorts en qunlite de Francois, mais comme Mretlques et ennemis de Dieu.^ * Ample chastisement was, however, about to be in- flicted — Champlain, who writes of this transaction with the blunt and honest indignation of a soldier, in his own fiimiliar and quaint style observes, — " Cciix- ci furent payes de la menie monnoye, qu'ils avoient payes les Fran(j:ois" — " they were repaid in the same coin with which they had paid the French." So Shakspeare truly says. In these cases, We still have judffernent here : that we but teach Bloody instructions, which, henijr tauijht, return To pliit,nio the inventor. This even-hnnd«'d justice ( ominends the ingredients of our poison'd chalice To our own lips. G S > 11 < * 'I a ; ■ 'i r.i m^- f0\ I 78 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, This outrage excited the deepest indignation in France ; but the avowed hatred of the Court towards Coligny and the Huguenots prevented public satis- faction being demanded from Philip II. The instru- ment of a just retribution was not wanting to the emergency ; but it was reserved for a private indivi- dual to redeem the honor of the French name. " En Tan 1567," says Champlain, " se presenta le brave Chevalier de Gourgues, qui plein de valeur et de courage, pour venger cet affront fait a la nation Fran^oise, et recognoissant qu'aucun d'entre la no- blesse, dontla France foisonne, ne s'offroit pour tirer raison d'une telle injure, entreprint de le faire :" — " In the year 1567, there presented himself the brave Chevalier de Gourgues, who full of valor and courage to avenge the insult on the French nation, and ob- serving that none among the nobility, with whom France abounded, offered to obtain satisfaction for such an injury, undertook himself to do so." He was a gentleman of Gascony, and there were at that period few inferior officers in France, or perhaps in all Europe, who had acquired a more brilliant repu- tation in war, or had undergone greater vicissitudes. When very young he had served in Italy with honor ; and on one occasion, having the command of a small band of thirty men, near Sienna in Tuscany, he was able for a considerable time to withstand and repulse the assault of a part of the Spanish army : until, all his men being slain, he yi*^lded himself prisoner. Contrary to the usage of war among generous foes, he was sent to the gallies in chains, as a robber-slave. The galley, to which the indignant De Gourgues was condemned, was afterwards captured by the Turks on the Sicilian coast, and sent into Rhodes. Again putting to sea with a Turkish crew, it was encoun- his and afl expatij attemp t. .i WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 79 nation in t towards jUc satis- he instru- ng to the ite indivi- [ne. "En a le brave eiir et de la nation ntre la no- , pour tirer faire :" — f the brave nd courage in, and ob- with whom ifaction for b so." He ere at that perhaps in |lliant repu- icissitudes. ith honor ; of a small .ny, he was [and repulse until, all llf prisoner. lerous foes, bber-slave. le Gourgues ly the Turks es. Again as encoun- tered and taken by the gallies of the Knights of Malta ; and De Gourgues recovered his liberty and his sword. He afterwards made several passages to Brazil, and the coast of Africa, still treasuring up vengeance on the Spaniards ; and he had just return- ed to France from one of his voyages, with the repu- tation of the bravest and most able among her navigators, when he heard of the disastrous tale of La Caroline, and the disgraceful manner in which his countrymen had been put to death by the Spa- niards. Like a patriot, he felt keenly for the honor of his country ; and as a man, he burned for an op- portunity of satiating his long dormant revenge on the perfidious Spaniards, for their unworthy treatment of himself. At this time too there was circulated in France a narrative intituled, the " Supplication of the widows and children of those who had been mas- sacred in Florida," calculated to rouse the national feeling to the highest pitch. These united motives urged De Gourgues to a chivalrous undertaking — no less than to chase the murderous invaders from the coasts of Florida at the sword's point, or to die in the attempt. He accordingly proceeded to make his preparations, which, however, were concealed with great skili and address. He raised a considerable sum by selling; his property, and by loans obtained from his friehds ; and disguising his real purpose, gave out that he was bound as before to the African coast. The squadron consisted of three vessels, with crews amounting to two hundred and fifty souls, amply provided for twelve months. Thus equipped he sailed, on the 23d August, 1567, from Bordeaux ; and after some time, began to unfold his real design, expatiating in glowing language on the glory of the attempt, and the righteousness of the quarrel. m ^■Xf v' h ili hi 80 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, SPEECH OF DE GOURGUES, FROM CHAMPLAIN. " Mes compagnons et fideles amis de ma fortune, vous n^estes pas ignorans combien je clieris les braves courages comme vous, et Tavez assez tesmoigne par la belle resolution que vous avez prise de me suivre et ussister en tous les perils et hazards honorables que nousaurons a soufFrir et essuyer, lorsqu'ils se pre- senteront devant nos yeux, et I'estat que je fais de la conservation de vos vies ; ne desirant point vous embarquer au risque d'un enterprise que je s^aurois reussir a une ruine sans honneur : ce seroit a moy une trop grande et blasmable temerite, de hazarder vos personnes a un dessein d'un accez si difficile ; ce que je ne croy pas estre, bien que j'aye employe une bonne partie de mon bien et de mes amis, pour equiper ces vaisseaux et les mettre en mer, estant le seul entrepreneur de tout le voyage. Mais tout cela ne me donne pas tant de sujet de m'affliger, comme j'en ay de me resjouir, de vous voir tous resolus a une autre entreprise, quiretourneraa votregloire, sc^avoir d'aller venger I'injure que nostre nation a rece'iie des Espagnols, qui ont fait une telle playe a la France, qu'elle saignera a jamais, par les supplices et traicte- mens infames qu'ils ont fait souffrir a nos Frani^ois, et exerce des cruantez barbares et inouies en leur endroit. Les ressentimens que j'en ay quelquefois, m'en font jetter des larmes de compassion, et me relevent le courage de telle sort, que je suis resolu avec I'assistance de Dicu, et la vostre, de prendre une juste vengeance d'une telle felonnie et cruante Es- pagnolle, de ces coeurs lasches et poltrons, qui ont surpris mal-heureusement nos compatriotes, qu'ils n'eussent ose regarder sur la defense de leurs armes. I i I lis S( J'ay tres-1 chers faites lonte d'affe de rei de voi "C you a like y provec all the they s you I safety any en lure : terneri ficult ( conside in it a friends, sea, m} But all as 1 ha upon ar glory- nation incurab treatme they hi descript tears of lil'ififl I'i'il WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 81 ^PLAIN. a fortune, les braves loigne par me suivre honorables 'lis se pre- e fais de la point vous je s^aurois roit a moy e hazarder iifficile ; ce uploye une amis, pour IT, estant le is tout cela "•er, comme jsolus a une ire, s^avoir receiie des la France, i et traicte- ; Francois, es en leur uelquefois, on, et me suis resolu rendre une Iruante Es- s, qui ont tes, qu'ils urs armes. lis sont assez mal logez, et les surprendrons aiscment. J'ay des hommes en mes vaisseaux qui cognoissent tres-bien le pais, et pouvons y allez en seurete. Voicy, chers compagnons, un subject de relever nos courages, faites paroistre que vous avez autant de bonne vo- lonte a executer ce bon dessein, que vous avez d'affection a me suivre : iie serez vous pas contents de remporter les lauriers triomphans de la despouille de vos ennemis ?" " Companions, and faithful friends of my fortunes, you are not ignorant how highly I value brave men like yourselves. — Your courage you have sufficiently proved by your noble resolution to accompany me in all the dangers which we shall have to encounter, as they successively present themselves — my regard for you I have shown by the care I have taken for the safety of your lives. I desire not to embark you in any enterprise which may result in dishonorable fai- lure : it would be in me a far too great and blameable temerity to hazard your safety in any design so dif- ficult of accomplishment, which, however, I do not consider this one to be ; seeing that I have employed in it a good part of my own fortune, and that of my friends, in equipping these vessels, and putting to sea, myself being the sole undertaker of the voyage. But all this does not give me so much cause for regret, as I have reason to rejoice, seeing you all resolved upoii another enterprise, which will redound to your glory — namely — to avenge the insult suffered by our nation from the Spaniards, who have inflicted an incurable wound upon France, by their infamous treatment, and the barbarous and unheard of cruelties they have exercised upon our countrymen. The description of these wrongs has caused me to shed tears of pity ; and inspires me now with such deter^ (:4 I'll i ■■'■ i in '1 82 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, mination, that I am resolved with the assistance of God and your aid, to take a just revenge for this felonious outrage on the part of the Spaniards — those base and cowardly men, who unhappily destroyed our friends by surprise, whom with arms in their hands they dared not to have looked in the face. The enemy is poorly lodged, and may be easily surprised. I have on board persons who know the country well, and we can reach it in safety. Here, my dear companions, here is a subject to rouse our courage ! Let me see that you have as good will to perform this noble design, as you had affection to follow my person ! Will you not rejoice to bear away triumphant laurels, bought by the spoil and ruin of our enemies ?" This enthusiastic speech produced its full effect. Each soldier shouted assent to the generous proposal ; and was ready to reply with Euryalus, Est hie, est animus lucis contemptor ; et istura Qui vitu bene credat emi, quo tendis, honorera ! Like thine, this bosom g-Iows with martial flame. Burns with a scorn of life, and love of fame- And thinks, if endless ^lory can be sought On such low terms, the prize is cheaply bought. Having thus obtained the full co-operation of his gallant band, De Gourgues steered for the coast of Florida ; and passed some time in reconnoitering the position of the Spaniards, and in acquiring froni the Indians full particulars of their strength and resources. These were, indeed, sufficiently formidable, amount- ing to foui* hundred fighting men, provided with every munition of war. No way discouraged by this superiority of numbers and of position, De Gourgues made a furious attack upon the two forts, on the day before the Sunday, called Quasimodo, in April, 1568, in ten niard; and h aritipf whicij persoi niouni iier de contei commi du ran eiix ;"- in ham the he£ the S^i fate of in the ] Indians and Jia to him soners i sacred, remain c their en from th( of the fc C03lxlIE J ET MEU being S derers." De G flestinati^ stance t( plained outrage a WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 83 stance of i for this Is— those •oyed our eir hands he enemy [. I have U, and we [lions, here e see that ►le design, Will you Is, bought full effect. IS proposal ; am nl ame, ation of his ,he coast of [oitering the g from the d resources, lie, amount- ivided with ,ged by this e Gourgues on the day pril, 1568, intending to capture them by escalade. The Spa- niards offered a very gallant resistance ; but the fury and impetuosity of the French, stimulated by national antipathy, by the particular nature of the revenge which they contemplated, and fired by the valor and personal example of their heroic chief, soon sur- mounted all opposition. " Nostre genereux Cheva- lier de Gourgues," says Champlain exultingly, " le coutelas a la main, leur enflamme le courage, et comme un lion a la teste des siens gaigne le dessus du rampart, repousse les Espagnols, se fait voye parmi eux :" — " our brave Chevalier de Gourgues, sword in hand, inflames their courage, and like a lion at the head of his troop, mounts the rampart, overthrows the Spaniards, and cuts his way through ihem." The fate of the Spaniards was sealed — many were killed in the forts — the rest taken, or put to death by the Indians. De Gourgues, thni crowned with victory, and having fully succeeded in an enterprise which to him seemed so truly glorious, brought all the pri- soners to the spot where the French had been mas- sacred, and where the inscription of Menendez yet remained. After reproaching his fallen enemies with their cruelty and perfidy, he caused them to be hung from the same trees, affixing this writing in the place of the former. " Je n'ay pas fait pendre ceux-ci COMME Espagnols, mais comme traitres, voleurs, ET meurtriers :" " I hang these persons not as being Spaniards, but as traitors, robbers and mur- derers." De Gourgues, on developing his real design and destination to Florida, which he did in the first in- stance to his chosen friends, had pathetically com- plained that ever since he had heard of the Spanish outrage at La Caroline, he had been unable, however 'I' 41 I'M 184 NEW PICTLRE OF QUEBEC, werried with toil, to obtain his usual rest by niglit — that, his imagination was ever occupied by the semblance of his countrymen hanging from the trees of Florida — that liis ears were startled with piercing cries for vengeance ; — and that sleep, •' nature's soft nurse," would never visit him again, No more would weigh his eyelids down. And steep his senses in for<;etf'ulues8 — until he had won her offices by a full and exquisite revenge on the Spaniards ! The accomplishment of his cherished purpose must have been a high and vivifying relief to an ardent spirit like De Gourgues. He now declared with exulting delight, that sleep, that " balm of hurt minds," had once more deigned to visit his couch ; and that his rest was now sweet, like that of a man delivered from a burthen of misery too great to bear ! Having accomplished this remarkable expedition, and inflicted, in a spirit accordant with that of the times, a terrible retribution on the Spaniards, De Gourgues sailed from the coast of Florida on the 3d May ; and arrived in France on the 6th June, where he was received by the people with every token of joy and approbation. In consequence, however, of the demand of the King of Spain for redress, he was compelled to absent himself for some time, until the anger of the Court permitted him to reappear. The narrative of this expedition was long preserved in the family of De Gourgues. Champlain, in whose Voyages this romantic story is to be found, seems to have been a passionate admirer of the conduct of De Gourgues, and thus enthusias- tically concludes his account of the expedition :— " Ainsi ce genereux Chevalier repara I'honneur de la n See poui nati( tilho pens ee q plus did t natfo had I if he Span by a honor and far m( ilL'i WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 85 , by nig^^t .d by the 1 the trees h piercing ature's soft I exquisite mplishment a high and ; Gourgues. it sleep, that gned to visit et, like that ry too great expedition, that of the niards, De a on the 8d Ijune, where lerv token of however, of redress, he |e time, until |to reappear, g preserved intic story is late admirer IS enthusias- :pedition :— 'honneur cle la nation Francoise, que les Espagnols avoient oft'en- sce : ce qu'autrement eust ete un regret a jamais pour la France, s'il n'eust venge I'affront receu de la nation Espagnolle. Entreprise genereuse d'un gen- tilhomme, qui I'executa a ses propres cousts et des- pens, seulement pour I'honneur, sans autre esperance : ce qui lui a rcussi glorieusement, et ceste gloire est plus a priser que tons les tresors du monde :" " Thus did this brave Knight repair the honor of the French nation, insulted by the Spaniards ; which otherwise had been an everlasting subject of regret to France, if he had not avenged the affront received from the Spanish people. A generous enterprise, undertaken bv a gentleman, and executed at his own cost, for honor's sake alone, without any other expectation ; and one which resulted in obtaining for him a glory far more valuable than all the treasures of the world." ABORTIVE VOYAGE OF LA ROCHE. It has been stated that the Norman, Basque and Breton fishermen continued their occupation on the great Bank, and along the shores of Newfoundland. By degrees, they established a sort of barter with the natives ; and the traffic in furs soon became an ob- ject, which the love of novelty, the facility of the trade, and its profitable nature soon rendered of greater interest than the precarious life of a fisher- man. Many of the masters of the fishing vessels became fur dealers ; and carried home skins of great rarity and value. At length, after half a century of civil discord, France having recovered her former peace and pros- perity under the auspices of Henry IV., the greatest of her Kings, the taste for colonial adventure H " -1 ;■: I -i'i :1 I: 86 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, revived ; and tlie Marquis De la Roche, a native of Brittany, obtained from the King a commission similar, and powers equal to those possessed for- merly by Roberval. These Letters Patent were dated on the 12th January, 1598 ; and contained the first establishment of the feudal tenure in this coun- try. Authority was given to La Roche, as the King's Lieutenant, " to concede to gentlemen lands in Fiefs, Seigniories, Counties, Viscounties and Raro- nies, and other dignities holding from tht- king — and to those of lower degree, subject to such charges and annual payments, as he might think proper to im- pose." To this extensive commission, neither the preparations nor the result bore any proportion. La Roche contented himself by fitting out a single vessel, which he put under the command of Chedotel, an experienced pilot of Normandy ; and embarked himself for the purpose of exploring the countries under his government. The whole conduct of this expedition was so devoid of foresight, that it would not be worthy of mention, but as forming a link in the historical chain. The first fault committed by La Roche was the reinforcing his crew by the admission of forty convicts taken from the prisons — the next was the place chosen for his temporary settlement. This was Sable Island, about twenty-five leagues to the South East of the Island of Cap Breton : a spot since remarkable only for the number of vessels shipwrecked upon its dangerous sands and shores. La Roche was probably induced to select Sable Island from its vicinity to the coasts he wished to explore ; and from the tradition that the Baron de Lery had intended to establish a colony there so early as 1518. Having disembarked the unfortunate convicts, whose destiny proved still more misera- and : went resid of tl last t the j The wild ( each ( every were < as a r< Franc to ret damag vexatii his use o ^ Not' tion, ai all pre^ the ea wealth trade, favorab the att< been gr to ^rade WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 87 , a native ommission essed for- tent were itained the this coun- le, as the jmen lands ; and Baro- king — and havges and pcv to im- ncither the proportion, ut a single •f Chedotel, d embarked e countries fhict of this it would not link in the ted by La e admission ^he next was ent. This leagues to ion ; a spot of vessels and shores, jelect Sable e wished to Baron de ly there so unfortunate lore misera- ble than if they had remained in their former cells — .La Roche proceeded to survey the adjacent coasts ; and returning to take off the people left on Sable Island, was so long prevented by continued gales, that he was constrained ti) leave them to their fate, and set sail for France. The poor wretches under- went every kind of hardship in their inhospitable residence — in the course of seven years but twelve of the forty remained alive, when a vessel sent at last to their relief took them back to France, just as the survivors were giving way to utter despair. The King had the curiosity to see them in their wikl dress of skins as they landed, and presented each of them with fifty crowns, and full pardon of every offence. Smith adds, that some of their skins were of great value, and were seized by the Captain as a recompence for his (:rouble. On their arrival in France, however, they comp'^lled him by legal means to return their property, and to pay them heavy damages. La Roche, who was overwhelmed with vexations arising from lawsuits, and the expenses of his useless expedition, soon after died broken hearted. ,» OTHER VOYAGES — PONTGRAVE — CHAUVIN. Notwithstanding the failure of La Roche's expedi- tion, and the repeated ill success which had attended all previous efforts to establish a colony in Canada, the eager anticipation of a mine of commercial wealth to be found in the prosecution of the fur trade, with which the French began to be more favorably impressed, urged on new adventurers to the attempt. Although an exclusive privilege had been granted to La Roche, private speculators began to trade to the St. La'trence, without notice on the i 1 S 1 . :,i' H H :ii!l 88 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, part of the Government. A considerable merchant of St. Malo, by name Pontgrave', distinguished himself by making several voyages to Tadoussac, at the mouth of the River Saguenay, whence he returned with furs sufficiently valuable to induce him to persevere. He soon perceived the possibi- lity of making this traffic extremely lucrative, if it could be brought to flow through one authorised channel ; and accordingly persuaded M. Chauvin, a captain in the navy, to make application to the King for an exclusive privilege, and for powers simi- lar to those conferred upon La Roche, Chauvin was a calvinist, and, in fact, of the same name as the great reformer, Calvin being merely the Latin name of Chauvin. He was jointly concerned with Pontgrave; and attempted without success to establish a trading post at Tadoussac. After making two voyages thither in 1600, and the following year, with but lit- tle profit, Chauvin died as he was preparing for a third. m to lij 1 V^tt) m Cha! j 1 pany li trade WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 89 CHAPTER THE SIXTH. HISTORICAL SKETCH CONCLUDED. FIRST VOYAGE OF CIIAMPLAIN — DE MONTS FOUNDATION OF QUEBEC. # At this period the colonization of the country seems to have been entirely disregarded. The only object of these frequent voyages was the prosecution of a petty fur trade. M, Chauvin was succeeded in his privilege by the Commander De Chatte or De Chaste, Governor of Dieppe ; who founded a com- pany of merchants at Rouen, in order to establish the trade in a liberal and efficient scale. He equipped an armament under the command of Pontgrave ; who also received letters patent from the King, authoriz- ing him to make further discoveries in the St. Law- rence, and to establish a settlement on the coast. Here a new epoch in the history of Canada may be said to present itself. Colonization, under the auspices of a man of talent, energy and patriotism was about to assume a new aspect; and after seventy- years of mismanagement and disaster, was for the first time to be attended with success. Samuel Champlain, a gentleman of Saintonge, Captain in the Navy, arrived in France from the West Indies, where he had been employed nearly three years, and had acquired the reputation of a brave and expe- rienced officer. The Commander De Chatte, anxious to engage the services of an officer of such merit, H S m t! ;u ■ ; it. 90 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, immediately proposed to Champlain to tahe a com- mand in the expedition destined for the St. Lawrence; and the King's consent having been obtained, the appointment was accepted. Champlain and Pont- grave accordingly set sail in 1603, laid up their ves- sels at Tadoussac ; and in a light boat with a crew of only five persons, ascended as far as the Sault St. Louis, which had been discovered by Jacques Cartier. It is said that on this first voyage Champlain was struck with the appearance of Quebec, and first form- ed the idea of selecting it as a site for a future colony. The Indian settlement of Hochelaga, which in our account of Cartier's visit, we designated by the im- posing name of a city, from its comparative impor- tance and population, had dwindled at the time of Champlain to a place of no moment. He does not even notice it, not having thought it necessary to go on shore, for the purpose of visiting it. Champlain made an exact chart of the coasts he had seen, together with a description of the country ; which on his return to France he submitted in person to the King, who avowed his intention of patronising his future endeavors. The death of De Chatte, which they learned on their arrival at Honfleur, was matter of deep regret to Champlain, on account of his high personal qualities, and the confidence reposed in him by Henry, ENTERPRISES OP DE MONTS. After the death of De Chatte, Pierre du Guast, SiEUR DE MoNTS, a townsman of Champlain, gen- tleman of the Chamber in ordinary to His Majesty, and Governor of Poiis, obtained the most extensive com Vir^^ to 5^ with of toge tenai obtai himsi he si nativ in teg lutere! De his pre several ports ( was en He sai 1604, y mediat( Nova ;! and by left Fra settlem* vessel ) of Can ci'oachir of De IV and was WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 91 le a com- ^awrence; lined, the ind Pont- their ves- ith a crew 5 Sault St. es Cartier. iplain was first form- r a future hich in our by the im- tive impor- he time of [e does not ssary to go e coasts he e country ; |din person latronising latte, which was matter of his high ised in him du Guast, )lain, gen- fis Majesty, It extensive commission yet granted by the King, reaching from Virginia to the Esquimaux River, or from latitude 40° to 54°. This gentleman had already made one voyage with Chauvin as a volunteer. He had also the power of conceding lands between latitude 40° and 46°, together with the usual titles of Viceroy and Lieu- tenant General. De Monts was a Calvinist, and obtained the free exercise of his form of leligion for himself and all his friends ; but on the condition that he should establish the catholic worship among the natives. He reposed the utmost confidence in the integrity and skill of Champlain ; and to this gentle- man, and his predecessor, M. de Chatte, belongs the credit of associating in their enterprises, the cele- brated founder of Quebec — who by his personal qua- lities, high character and valuable services, greatly contributed to render Canada an object of lasting interest to France and to European Christendom. De Monts continued the company established by his predecessor, and reinforced it by the addition of several considerable merchants from the dilFerent ports of France, particularly Rochelle : so that he was enabled to fit out a very complete armament. He sailed from Havre-de-Grace on the 7th March, 1604, with four vessels, of which two, under his im- mediate command, were destined from Acadie, or Nova Scotia. He was accompanied by Champlain, and by a gentleman named Poitrincourt, who had left France with the design of making a permanent settlement with his family in the new world. A third vessel was despatched under Pontgrave to the Strait of Canso, for the purpose of preventing any en- croachment by other parties on the exclusive rights of De MontSt The fourth was ordered to Tarloussac, and was destined to carry on the fur trade with tm ,f,'l. »3 .^ '4i 14 ■ 92 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, 'Ir^V that post. On the 6th May, De Monts arrived at a harbor on the coast of Acadie, where he com- menced the rigid assertion of his privilege by seizing and confiscating an English vessel. As a singular recompense for the loss of his ship, he called this harbor Port Rossignol, from the name of the master, which was Nightingale, Thence they sailed to the Island of St. Croix, about twenty leagues to the west- ward of the River St. John, where De Monts disem- barked the people, and passed the winter. Finding the place inconvenient, in the spring of 1605, he removed the establishment to Port Royal, now An- napolis, discovered by Champlain, who had been diligently employed in surveying the coast. Here a fort was built, of which Pontgrave was at first ap- pointed Lieutenant ; but De Monts soon afterwards, bv virtue of his commission, conceded the whole establishment of Port Royal with a large domain to M. Poitrin court ; which grant was a few years after recognized and confirmed by Letters Patent from the King, being the first concession made in North America. De Monts returned to France in the au- tumn of 1605 : when he found his influence at Court on the wane, heavy complaints having been made against him by the persons interested in the Fisheries, who belonged to every port in the Kingdom. They represented with considerable unanimity, if not with truth and justice, that under pretence of preventing their trade with the Indian hunters for furs, he had thrown every impediment in the w:iy of their lawful occupation in the fisheries^ to their great injury, and to the prejudice of the Revenue. These statements were listened to at Court, and De Monts was depriv- ed of the exclusive privilege, which had been granted to him for ten years. Not, however, disheartened WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 93 by tins reverse, he entered into a new engagement with M. Poitrincourt, who had followed him to France ; and equipped a vessel, which sailed from Rochelie on the 13th May, 1606, for the purpose of succouring the people left at Port Royal. This Co- lony, considering itself forgotten by the founders, was on the point of returning to France. Thus op- portunely reinforced, however, it speedily encreased in prosperity under the able management of Poitrin- court, who appears to have been a person of superior talents and resources. He was here joined by his friend Marc Lescarbot, an Advocate of Paris, who, urged by an eager desire and curiosity, unusual with persons of his profession, had left the practice of the Courts to examine the new world : — Ig-notis errare locis, igaota videre riumina gaiidebat. This gentleman- proved of the greatest service in meliorating the condition of the settlement. He is described as now piquing the pride, and now animat- ing the drooping spirits of the settlers ; by which means, added to indefatigable exertion in his own person, he succeeded in gaining the love of all. Every day his ingenuity was successfully put to the test, by some invention of utility to the people ; and he afforded an eminent example, how advantageous to a new settlement are the resources of a mind cultivated by study, and guided by zeal and reflexion. It is to this learned and ingenious person that we are indebted for an excellent history of New France, published in 1609. We must acknowledge in him an accurate and judicious author, equally capable of establishing a Colony, of regulating its internal eco- nomy, and of writing its natural and political history. m '■: u NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, M. Poitrincourt maintained possession of Port Royal for several years, until he was dispossessed by the English, who finally acquired the sovereignty of Nova Scotia. The enemies of De Monts still persevered in their misrepresentations, and at length succeeded, to the great indignation of Champlain, in depriving him altogether of his commission, a very trifling indem- nification only beinof allowed to him in return for his extensive disbursements. The next year, in 1607, he solicited Iiis re-appointment — but only obtained a renewal of his former privilege for one year, on con- dition of forming a settlement on the River St. Law- rence ^ to which, by the advice of Champlain, the King had lately turned his serious attention. Neither the coiiipany to which De Monts belonged, or the associates of his voyages, had abandoned him in his adversity. Two vessels were fitted out at Honfleurin 1608, under the command of Champlain and Pontgravc for Tadoussac, and the St. Lawrence, while De Monts remained in France endeavoring to obtain an extension of his Patent, but without suc- cess. This failure, however, did not prevent him from afterwards fitting out some vessels, by the aid of the company, and without any commission, in the spring of 1610 — for the River St. Lawrence, under the same able command. Champlain, who, as stated above, was a zealous catholic, makes great objection to the employment and admixture of the Huguenots in these expeditions of De Monts. Indeed he prognosticates ill success to every undertaking where so preposterous an union was permitted. The following story is told in his peculiar Style : — the parties must have been com- posed, according to the poet, of that stubborn crew, entn train de D J'ay coups ne s^ le me tre se este b contro beau i tantosi diverse de Tau apporti lences de la r( " Some that is, ^ood fj who are Ministe differeni better n I know plained tied the determir were firs French i WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 95 ort Royal ed by the eignty of •ed in their led, to the | riving him ng iudem- urn for his r, in 1607, obtained a jar, on con- ;r St. Law- mplain, the ion. ts belonged, ndoned him ^tted out at Champlain ;. Lawrence, Leavoring to ;ithout suc- (revent him by the aid ision, in the nee, under Of errant Saints, whom all men grant To be the true Church militant ; And prove their doctrine orthodo:. By apostolic blows and knocks. " II se trouve quelque chose a redire en ceste entreprise, qui est, en ce que deux religions con- traires ne font jamais un grand fruit pour la gloire de Dieu parmy les infideles, que Ton veut convertir. J'ay veu le Ministre et nostre cure s'entre-b'attre a coups de poing, sur le diflferend de la religion. Je ne S9ay pas qui etoit le plus vaillant, et qui donnoit le meilleur coup, mais je sc^ay tres bien quele minis- tre se plaignoit quelquefois au Sieur de Mons d'avoir este battu, et vuidoient en ceste fa9on les poincts de controversee. Je vous laisse a penser si cela estoit beau a voir ; les sauvages estoient tantostd'un coste, tantost de l*autre, et les Francois meslez selon leur diverse croyance, disoient pis que pendre de Tune et de I'autre rel^'gion, quoy que le Sieur de Mons y apportast la paix le plus qu'il pouvoit. Ces inso- lences estoient veritablement un moyen a Tinfidele de la rendre encore plus endurcy en son infidelite :'* " Some fault is to be found in this enterprise, and that is, that two opposite religions can never produce p^ood fruit, to the glory of God, among the infidels who are to be converted. I have seen the Huguenot Minister and our Cure engage at fisticuffs, upon the difference of religion. I know not which was the better man, or who gave the harder blows ; but this I know very well, that the Minister sometimes com- plained of having been thrashed, and thus they set- tled their points of controversy. I leave you to determine if this was decent to behold : the natives were first on one side and then on the other ; and the French took part according to their respective creed, '!■'■« p::l il' 96 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, abusing each other's religion, although De Monts did all in his power to keep the peace. These follies were truly a method of rendering the infidel more hardened in his infidelity." FOUNDATION OF QUEBEC. Om the 13th April, 1608, Pontgrave having been already despatched in a vessel to Tadoussac, Cham- plain, who had obtained the commission of Lieute- nant, under De Monts, in New France, set sail from Honfleur, with the express intention of establishing a settlement on the St. Lawrence, above Tadoussac, at which post he arrived on the 3d June. After a short stay, he ascended the River, carefully examin- ing the shores ; and on the 3d July, reached the spot called Stadacona, now Quebec, rendered so remark- able by the first visit of Jacques Cartier in 1535. Champlain, whose ambition was not limited to mere commercial speculations — actuated by the patriotism and pride of a French gentleman, a faithful servant of his King, and warmly attached to the glory of his country, — thought more of founding a future empire than of a trading post for peltry. After examining the position, he selected the elevated promontory, which commands the narrowest part of the great River of Canada, the extensive basin between it and the Isle of Orleans, together with the mouth of the Little River St Charles, as a fit and proper seat for the future metropolis of New France, and there laid the foundation of Quebec, on the 3d July, 1608. His judgment has never been called in question, or his taste disputed in this selection. Its commanding position, natural strength, and aptitude both for pur- poses of oflfence and defence, are evident on the first vie sub emj Her sin, to th hyfe vines to mj were dens ] wasfo ing w magaz plain be rea day; je chei je n'ei seitue remplie ployay y faire nous fis convert, ce h'eu ^Jyverna the 3d our dwe i'or it tl WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 97 )e Monts ese follies [idel more aving been ,ac, CHA.M- of Lieute- et sail from establishing Tadoussac, le. After a illy examin- ;hed the spot d so remark- tier in 1535. ,ited to mere [le patriotism ;hful servant glory of his luture empire Ir examining promontory, ,of the great itween it and [mouth of the oper seat for nd there laid July, 1608. question, or commanding .oth for pur- ton the first view — while the unequalled beauty, grandeur and sublimity of the scene mark it as worthy of extended empire : hoc re^num gentibus esse, Si qua fata siaant. jam turn tvnditque fovetque. This noble site, prove fate hereafter kind. The seat uf lasting empire he designed. Here, on the point immediately overlooking the ba- sin, and on the site reaching from the grand battery to the Castle of St. Lewis, he commenced his labors by felling the walnut trees, and rooting up the wild vines with which the virgin soil was covered, in order to make room for the projected settlement. Huts were erected, some lands were cleared, and a few gar- dens made, for the purpose of proving the soil, which was found to be excellent. The first permanent build- ing which the French erected was a store house, or magazine for the security of their provisions. Cham- plain thus describes his first proceedings, which will be read with interest by the inhabitant at the present day : " J'arrivay a Quebec le 3 Juillet, ou estant, je cherchay lieu propre pour nostre habitation ; mais je n*en peus trouver de plus commode n'y mieux scitue que la pointe de Quebec laquelle estoit remplie de noyers et de vignes. Aussi tost j'em- ployay une partie de nos ouvriers a les abbatre ; pour y faire nostre habitation La premiere chose que nous fismes fut le magazin pour mettre nos vivres a convert, qui fut promptement fait Proche de ce lieu est un riviere agreable ou anciennement hyverna Jacques Cartier :" — " I reached Quebec on the 3d July, where I sought out a proper place for our dwelling ; but I could not find one better adapted for it than the promontory, or point of Quebec, *! iti1 !■* 98 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ... which was covered with walnuts and vines. As soon as possible, I set to work some of our laborers, to level tliem, in order to build our habitation The first thing which we did was to build a store house to secure our provis. ■: under shelter, which was quickly done Near .als spot is an agreeable river, where formerly wintered Jacques Cartier." A tem- porary barrack for the men and officers was subse- quently erected on the higher part of the position, near where the Castle of St. Lewis now stands. It must be remembered that at the time of the landing of Champlain, the tide usually rose nearly to the base of the rock, or cote ; and that the first buildings were of necessity on the high grounds. Afterwards, and during the time of Champlain, a space was re- deemed from the water^ and elevated above the inundation of the tide ; on which store houses, and also a battery level with the water were erected, hav- ing a passage of steps between it and the fort, on the site of the present Mountain Street, which was first used in 1623. Champlain had now, humble as they were, suc- cessfully laid the foundations of the first French Colony in North America. One hundred and sixteen years had elapsed since the discovery of the new world ; and it was only in the year previous, that on the whole continent, north of Mexico, a European nation had at length succeeded in establishing any settlement. This was efi'ected by the English under Captain Christopher Newport, who laid the founda- tion of a settlement at Jamestown, Virginia, on the 13th May, 1607, two hundred and twenty seven years ago. The chivalrous character and adventures of Captain John Smith, and the interesting story of Pocahontas, have conferred a peculiar interest on WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 99 As soon )rers, to The house to i quickly le river, A tem- as subse- position, Linds. It e landing 3 the base buildings fterwards, ;e was re- ibove the .uses, and gcted, hav- ort, on the \\ was first were, suc- st French ind sixteen f the new vious, that , European ishing any rlish under the founda- lia, on the .even years entures of g story of nterest on the early history of this colony. It may be noted as a singular contrast with the growth of the English colonies afterwards, that at the death of Queen Elizabeth, in 1603, there was not a European family in all the northern continent : at present the great State of Virginia alone, — of which the germ was a colony of one hundred souls, of whom fifty died during the first year ; and which, as described by Chalmers in his political annals, " feeble in num- bers and enterprise, was planted in discord, and grew up in misery," — numbers upon its soil no less than twelve hundred thousand inhabitants ! The disappearance and eradication of the Indians has been still more extraordinary. Of the countless tribes who filled up the back country of Virginia at the time of the first settlement by the English, it appears by the census of 1830, that there existed only forty-seven Indians in the whole State ! The summer was passed in finishing the necessary buildings ; when clearances were made around them, and the ground prepared for sowing wheat and rye : which was accomplished by the 15th October. Hoar frosts commenced about the 3d October, and on the 15th the trees shed their leafy honors. The first snow fell on the 18th November, but disappeared after two days. Champlain describes the snow as lying on the ground from December until near the end of April, so that the favorite theory of those who maintain the progressive improvement of the climate, as lands are cleared in new countries, is not borne out by the evidence of Canada. From several facts it might be shown that the wintry climate was not more inhos- pitable in the early days of Jacques Cartier and Champlain than in the present. The winter of ii| 100 NEW PICTURE OF J^UEBEC, Hii lu.,!il 1611 and 1612 was extremely mild, and the river was not frozen before Quebec. From the silence of Champlain respecting the hamlet or town of Stadacona, which had been visited by Cartier so often in 1535, it would seem probable that it had dwindled, owing to the migratory predilec- tions of the Indians, to a place of no moment. He certainly mentions a number of Indians who were " cabannez," or hutted near his settlement ; but the ancient name of Stadacona never once occurs. It will be recollected that Cartier spoke of the houses of the natives as being amply provided with food against the winter. From the evidence of Champlain, the Indians of the vicinity appear to have degenerated in this particular. They are represented as having ex- perienced the greatest extremities for want of food during the winter of 1608; and some who came over from the Pointe Levi side of the river, were in such a state of wretchedness, as hardly to be able to drag their limbs to the upper part of the settlement. They were relieved and treated with the greatest kindness by the French. The ice having disappeared in the spring of 1609, so early as the 8th April, Champlain was enabled to leave the infant settlement of Quebec, and to ascend the river on the 18th, for the purpose of further ex- ploring the country. He resolved to penetrate into the interior ; and his mingled emotions of delight and astonishment may easily be conceived, as he proceeded to examine the magnificent country of which he had taken possession. During this summer, he discovered the beautiful lake which now bears his name ; and having returned to Quebec in the autumn, he sailed for France in September 1609, leaving the WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 101 the river cting the :en visited 1 probable y predilec- nent. He who were t ; but the )ccurs. It e houses of ood against PLAIN, the enerated in having ex- int of food ) came over re in such a Lble to drag ent. They st kindness ig of 1609, enabled to Id to ascend Ifurther ex- letrate into of delight |ved, as he I country of lis summer, Iw bears his Ihe autumn, heaving the settlement under the command of Captain Pierre j Chauvin, an officer of great experience. Champlain was well received on his arrival by Henry IV,, who invited him to an interview at Fontainebleau ; and received from him an exact ac- count of all that had been done in New France, with a statement of the advantages to be expected from the new establishment on the St. Lawrence, — at which recital the King expressed great satisfaction. De Monts, however, by whose means the settlement of Quebec had been formed, could not obtain a renewal of his privilege, which had now expired : — notwithstanding which, he was once more enabled by the assistance of the company of merchants, to fit out two vessels in the spring of 1610, under the command of Champlain and Pontgrave. The latter was instructed to continue the fur trade with the Indians at Tadoussac, while Champlain, having with him a reinforcement of artisans and laborers, was to proceed to Quebec. He sailed from Honfleur on the 8tli April, and arrived at Tadoussac in the singu- larly short passage of eighteen days. Thence as- cending the river to Quebec, he had the gratification of finding the colonists in good health, and content with their situation. The crops of the previous year had been abundant, and every thing was in as good order and condition as could be expected. To pursue further the proceedings of Champlain, and his discoveries in the interior, does not properly fall within the scope of this work, but belongs to the History of Canada. It may be well, however, to observe in this place, that owing to the political error committed by this otherwise sagacious chief, when he taught the natives the use of fire-arms, and joined them in an offensive league against the Iroquois, I 2 ill p I'TJJI i 102 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, who were at first supported by the Dutch, and after- wards by the English Colonists of New- York, — Champlain not only laid the foundation of that predatory and cruel warfare which subsisted with lit- tle intermission between his countrymen and the five nations, notwithstanding the conciliatory efforts of the Jesuits — but he may with reason be considered as the remote, although innocent cause, of the ani- mosity afterwards engendered between the Provin- cialists and the French, owing to the excesses of the Indians in the interest of the latter, and of a war which terminated only with the subjugation of Canada by the British arms in 1760. Champlain, who made frequent voyages to France in order to promote the interests of the rising Colony and who identified himself with its prospects by bringing out his family to reside with him, was wisely continued, with occasional intermission, in the chief command until his death. In 1620. he erected a temporary fort on the site of the Castle of St, Lewis ; which he rebuilt of stone, and fortified in 1624. At that time, however, the Colony numbered only fifty souls. It appears from the Parish Register then commenced to be regularly kept, that the first child born in Quebec of French parents was christened Eustache on the 24th October, 1621, being the son of Abraham Martin and Margaret L'Anglois. In 1629, Champlain had to undergo the mortification of surrendering Quebec to an armament from England under Louis Kertk, who on the 22d July planted the English Standard on the walls, just one hundred and thirty years before the battle of the Plains of Abraham. Champlain was taken as a prisoner of war to England, whence he returned to France, and subsequently to Canada in 1633. The inhabi- tant! Frei left 1 the Man C] ands and I nearl publi tleme of Di pleasi deficit tial in cover( formei commj with r and m ing an Att in Can by sons soJdien many j Lawrer tlemenl and in that re Jacques outlay ( adventu or Prov dred th( WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 103 and after- wr-York, — >n of that id with lit- md the five efforts of considered [)f the ani- he Provin- ^sses of the d of a war Q of Canada 2S to France ing Colon; rospects by , was wisely in the chief e erected a f St, Lewis ; 1624. At [d only fifty gister then e first child christened )ing the son nglois. In tification of .m England uly planted ne hundred e Plains of prisoner of to France, 'he inhabi- tants were well treated by Kertk, who was himself a French Huguenot Refugee, and none of the settlers left the country ; which was restored to France by the treaty of St. Germain-en-Laye, on the 29th March, 1632. Champlain, who combined with superior talents and singular prudence a temperament of high courage and resolution, after a residence in New France of nearly thirty years, died full of honors, and rich in public respect and esteem, in the bosom of the set- tlement of which he was the founder, about the end of December, 1635. His memoirs are written in a pleasing and unaffected style ; and show that he was deficient in none of the qualities which are so essen- tial in the leader of difficult enterprises, and the dis- coverer of new countries. His obsequies were per- formed with all the pomp which the colony could command ; and his remains were followed to the grave with real sorrow by the Clergy, Officers, and the civil and military inhabitants, Father Le Jeune pronounc- ing an appropriate funeral oration. At the death of Champlain the French possessions in Canada consisted of the fort of Quebec, surrounded by some inconsiderable houses, and barracks for the soldiers, a few huts on the Island of Montreal, as many at Tadoussac, and at other places on the St. Lawrence, used as trading and fishing posts. A set- tlement had just been commenced at Three Rivers ; and in these trifling acquisitions were comprised all that resulted from the discoveries of Verazzano, Jacques Cartier, Roberval, Champlain, and the vast outlay of De la Roche, De Monts, and other French adventurers. At the time we are writing, the Colony or Province of Lower Canada contains nearly six hun- dred thousand inhabitants — Quebec possesses over '. liV 34, I ' 1 104 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, 1 three thousand houses, and a population of near thirty- thousand souls. That of Montreal is as numerous ; and ThreeJR,ivers is progressively improving in wealth and resources. The social and commercial intercourse between these flourishing towns is main- tained by means of magnificent steamboats of un- rivalled safety and expedition — those floating palaces, in which a thousand human beings are often trans- ported from city to city. The trade of the Province, instead of being limited to a few small craft engaged in the fisheries or the fur trade, employs more than a thousand vessels of burthen, enriching the Pro- vince with an annual immigration of from twenty-five to fifty thousand souls, the aggregate of whose capital is immense ; — and conveying in return the native pro- duce of the Canadas to almost every part of the empire. Pitt must have been prophetically inspired when he gave to the great seal of Canada its beautiful legend, for nothing could be more applicable to the double advantages of one extensive branch of its commerce — the Timber trade — AB IPSO DUCIT OPES ANIMUMQUE FERRO — Gains power and riches by the selfsame steel. Instead of a few huts on the River's side, the country on each bank of the St. Lawrence has been long divided into rich Seigniories, and the fertile soil cul- tivated by an industrious, a virtuous and contented population — by a people to whom foreign dominion, instead of deteriorating their former condition, has been the herald of all that can render life precious. It has given to them the unrestricted enjoyment of their rights, language and religion — protection against external foes, together with the full security of their WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 105 near tliirty lumerous^ ; )roving in jommercial ns is main- )ats of un- ing palaces, ►ften trans- e Province, tft engaged f)loys more ng the Pro- twenty-five hose capital J native pro- f the empire, red when he tiful legend, ) the double ts commerce domestic usages, customs, laws and property — per- fect exemption from the burthens of taxation, and a state of rational happiness and political freedom un- equalled on the face of the globe. The following beautiful passage from Virgil will strike every one, as singularly applicable to the condition of the Ca- nadian farmer, or habitant : O fortunatos nimium, sua si bona norint, A«^rioolas ! quibiis ipsa, prooiil discordibus armisi Fundit humofacilem victum justissitna tellus. Si non in^entem foribus doraus alta superbis Maae salutaatum totis vomit sedibus undam ; * # At secura quies, et nescia fallere vita, Dives opura variarum ; at latis otia fundis, Speluncse, viviqiie lacus ; at friofida tempe, Mugitusque boum, raollesque sub arbore sorani Non absunt. Illic saltus, et lustra ferarum, Et patiens operura, parvoqueassuetajuventus, Sacra Deum, sanctique patres. Extrema per illos Justitia excedens terris restiufia fecit. ! steel. the country been long tile soil cul- d contented n dominion, indition, has ife precious, njoyment of ction against rity of their O happy, if he knew his happy state, The swain, who free from discord and debate. Receives his easy food from nature's hand, And just returns of cultivated land. No palace with a lofty gate he wants, To admit the tides of early visitants ; But easy quiet, a secure retreat, A harmless life, that knows not how to cheat. With homebred plenty the rich owner bless. And rural pleasures crown his happiness. Cool grots are his, and living lakes, the pride Of meads, and streams that through the valley glide ; And shady groves that easy sleep invite. 106 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, And after toil a soft repose at night. Wild bPBsts of nature in his woods abound ; And youth, of labor patient, plough the ground, Inured to hardship and to homely fare ; Ifor venerable age is wanting there, In great examples to the youthful train; T*7or ought is there religion to profane. From hence Astrsea took her flight, and here The prints of her departing steps appear. Having thus conducted the reader to the founda- tion of Quebec, we conclude the historical sketch of j the progress of early discovery and settlement in this part of the North American continent. ? ' ^^ nd ; ground. d here ar. > the fouiida- ical sketch of lement in this WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 107 CHAPTER THE SEVENTH. ETYMOLOGY OF THE WORDS CANADA AND QUEBEC THE SUFFOLK SEAL. There are few subjects on which greater ingenuity I has been displayed, and more time and labor expend- led, than on etymology. Every votary of this study Ihas a favorite theory — the fancy runs wild, and even [the gravest writers have indited most deliberate ' [nonsense, when led astray by the ignis fatuus of letymological research. The vulgar signs of obscure [taverns and ale-houses have not been rejected as subjects for the lucubrations of antiquaries ; — and [such uncourtly and degenerate phrases as " The Bull md Mouth," and " The Bag o' nails," have been restored by antiquarian lore into the historic and classic appellations of " Boulogne Mouth," and " The iBacchanals." Even the Spectator has elevated the )ld hostelry of Isabella Savage into that of " La lelle Sauvage." Taking a bolder range, Vallancey lias demonstrated, at least to his own satisfaction, that tbespeech of the Phoenician in the Poenulus of Plautus Is pure Irish ; but the climax of absurdity was reached |)y an author of the name of Lemon, who, in 1783, )ublished an " English Etymology," the avowed aim 3f which was to prove, that almost all English words are of Greek origin. This author says, with all the gravity of a man in full possession of his senses, — I' There are many words in our language that con- 1;,; !'* 108 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, M tinue to wear so strange and uncouth an appearance as would require more than Qildipus to develope and disentangle from their present intricate and enigma- tical disguises. Thus the expressions hot-cockles, scratch-cradle, link-boy, bogle-hoe, haut-gout, bon-mot, kickshaws, Crutched-Friars, and innumerable others can only be explained by their etymologies, every one of which is Greek ! ! The force of nonsense could no further go — and the reader may be assured, that the whole work is in strict conformity with this extract : the writer, ne- vertheless, was a beneficed clergyman, and a man of letters. The etymology of the names, " Canada" and " Quebec," has been disfigured and encumbered by definitions equally puerile. Such fancies were pecu- liar to the times, which followed the discovery of America. Innumerable were the conceits of the Elizabethan age — the learned plunged without com- pass into the unknown seas of etymological discovery; and even the wise Bacon, and the severe Coke were addicted to this pursuit. In the age before that, during the time of the blufif King Harry, " the so- vereignest thing on earth" was a name conveyed in a rebus ; and such devices are still seen on the walls and mouldings of the most celebrated of the English Cathedrals. But the sagacious etymologists of former days by no means recognised the necessity of ac- quaintance with the primitive language of which the words they undertook to explain were composed. They pursued a "royal road" of their own; and undertook to discover in the Spanish tongue the root of phrases which existed only in the aboriginal speech of the Indian native. Thus the etymons of Canada and Quebec have been sought for, where there was Cham " Can hypoti countr " Bea Paris, the pr placed The d( above, old wri the Sp; moreov ever toi nent; WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 109 appearance jvelope and nd enigma- hot-cockles, mU bon-mot, liable others es, every one ler go — and le work is in ; writer, ne- md a man of :anada" and cumbered by es were pecu- discovery of iceits of the without corn- eal discovery; re Coke were before that, •ry, " the so- conveyed in on the walls .f the English ists of former iessity of ac- of which the [re composed, ir own ; and Ingue the root ' -iginal speech .ns of Canada [ere there was less probability of finding them than in the languages of Japan and Otaheite ! , Father Hennepin, one of those etymological saimns, whose labor? it were great pity should be lost, tells us that the Spaniards were the first discoverers of Canada ; and that finding in it nothing worthy of their cupidity, they bestowed upon it the negative appellation of " El capo di nada," — " Cape Nothing" — whence by corruption its present name. La Potherie follows in the same track, and with more particularity recites the same derivation. Charlevoix gives the same story with a little variation. He tells us that the natives of Gaspe frequently repeated the words, " Acanada" — "Nothing here," — to the French under Jacques Cartier, words which they had received from the Spaniards who had visited them before his time. Charlevoix supposes that the French were thus induced to consider it the name of the country ; but in a note he adds, with some hesitation, another definition, to which we shall have occasion to return. Champlain contents himself with using the word " Canada" very sparingly, without any notice or hypothesis as to derivation, the appellation of the country being in his time New France, In the " Beautes de I'histoire du Canada," publis!ied in Paris, the same fanciful etymology is given ; but the preferable definition, noticed by Charlevoix, is placed first in order, as deserving greater attention. The derivation of the name " Canada," as given above, is clearly fanciful. 1 1 does not appear in the old writers, and was a weak attempt to derive from the Spanish a word of evident Indian origin. It is, moreover, extremely uncertain whether the Spaniards ever touched at Gaspe, or on any part of the conti- nent; and it seems highly probable that the tradition K iff no NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, itself received currency from the spurious etymology, which rendered it necessary, for the sake of probabi- lity, to show that the Spaniards had reached the coast previous to the coming of the French. Having thus discussed the fanciful derivation of the word, let us consider its more probable source and ety- mology. Cartier, in whose narrative there is no men- tion of the words " Aca nada," as used by the natives of Gaspe, or Baye des Chaleurs, gives the name of " Canada" indifferently to the whole region which he discovered from the Sault ^'^t. Louis to the Gulf of St. Lawrence — to the great River itself— and also to the immediate portion of the country in which he wintered, and of which Donnacona is stated, in page forty-three, to have been Lord, And he does this on the authority of the two native interpreters whom he had originally taken from Gaspe. We conceive it utterly irrational to suppose that, at that early period, the name of Canada was extended over this immense country. The migratory habits of the Aborigines would effectually prevent such a con- clusion. They usuallj^ distinguished themselves by their different Tribes, called from the name of some wild animal ; but not by the country which they inhabited or hunted over ad libitum, and with all the independence of savage life. They gave rather a name to the locality, than adopted their own from any fixed place of residence. Thus, the Iroquois and the Ottawas added their appella- tions to the Rivers which ran through their hunting grounds ; and the Huron Tribe, who gave their name originally to the Lake, on the downfall of their ancient dominion — even when confined within the limits which their too powerful enemies had imposed, and living in the midst of another people — still WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. Ill proudly distinguished themselves as the Huron In- dians of Lorette ; and their habitation, under the name of the Huron Village, is visited with interest and curiosity to the present day. It has never been pretended that any tribe of Indians bore the name of Canada, which must inevitably have been the case, had that extensive region been so called by the Abo- rigines, as Cartier supposed. The natural conclu- sion is, that the word " Canada" was a mere local appellation, without reference to the country — that each Tribe had their own " Canada," which shifted its position according as they migrated either from caprice, or from the necessity of acquiring new hunt- ing grounds — in short, that the suggestion contained in the note of Charlevoix, Nouvelle France, volume the first, page nine, of the quarto edition, and repeated in " Beautes de I'Histoire du Canada," affords the real solution of the difficulty : " Quel- qu'uns derivent ce nom du mot Iroquois Kannata, qui se prononce Cannada, et signifie un amas de cabanes ;" — " Some derive this name from the Iro- quois word Kannata, pronounced Cannada, signifying a collection of huts," The adoption of this name by the French under Cartier was natural. Where - ever they found any collection of huts in their inter- course with the natives from Gaspe to the Sault St. Louis, they met with the word " Canada" in answer to their enquiries ; and they accordingly believed it to be the name of the country, instead of the particular village which they had discovered. Father du Creux, who arrived in Canada about the year 1625, in the preface to his Historia Canadensis, a quarto volume written in elegant latin, gives the name of Canada to the whole valley of the St. Lawrence, confessing, however, his ignorance of the etymology in ii' 112 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, P the most ingenuous manner : " Porro, de etymologia vocis Canada nihil satis certi potui comperire : pris- cam quidem esse, constat ex eo, quod iliam ante annos prope sexaginta passim usurpari andiebam puer. At Marcus quidem Lescarbotius fluvium S. Laurentii vocat identidem Magnum fluvium Canada, seu latina appositione. Magnum fluvium Canadam, nee de vocis origine quicquam prodit :" — " I have been able to discover nothing certain respecting the etymology of the word Canada ; but it is evident that it is an old name, because when a boy, more than sixty years ago, I heard it every where used. Mark Lescarbot always calls the River St, Lawrence the great River of Canada, but mentions nothing con- cerning the origin of the words." It will be recol- lected that Lescarbot, who was a man of learning and talent, published his book in 1609. From a paper among the unpublished transactions of the Literary and Historical Society of Quebec, we gather that the Indian word " Canada," which is pro- nounced as if written thus, Kaugh-na-daugh, is a com- bination formed of the first syllables of two distinct words, implying a collection of huts. This comprehen- sive method of forming a word from the first syllables of other words is usual with the Indians, accustomed to vary their definitions, according to every impres- sion made upon their senses and powers of perception. The first of these syllables is met with in several Indian names at present existing ; as in Kaugh-na- waugh-a, or the Village of the Rapid, an Indian settlement nearly opposite to Lachine ; and in the word Kaugh-yu-ga^ or Cayuga, one of the five nations or Iroquois. The latter is found in the name Onon- daugh-a, Onondaga, another of the five nations; and both occur in the same word in Kaugh-na-daugh- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 113 ymologia re : pris- iam ante andiebam luvium S. i Canadae, Canadam, -" 1 have ecting the ddent that more than ;d. Mark ^rence the ithing con- be recol- )f learning ransactions Juebec, we hich is pro- h, is a com- wo distinct lomprehen- st syllables !UStomed to ry impres- perception, in several iKaugh-na- an Indian and in the ve nations lame Onoii- e nations; rna-daugh' I ga, or Canandaigua, in the Gennessee country. Charlevoix also mentions that the Kennebec Indians were called Canibas, Kaugh-ni-has \ and that the River Kennebec was originally called Canibequi. The intermediate and connecting syllable na is very probably the particle of, — as in Irish Celtic we find Mac-na-mara, Son of the sea, Con-na-mara, Head of the sea, or a promontory. Without falling into the error of the fanciful etymologists of whom we have spoken above, it may be remarked, that this peculiar formation of the Indian compound may possibly exist in every language, as part of the original process of their invention. There are certainly some traces of it discoverable in the Latin, a few of which, for the amusement of the curious, we subjoin : Malo is formed of Nolo . . . . Macte Nubo . . . . Caveo Tuens, tueor . Aucupo Manceps, mancipium Duco . . . . Contraho . . . Traho . . . . Magis volo, Non volo, Magis aucte» Nube €0. Catus eo. Tutus ens, tutus eo, Avem capio, Manu capio. Duo cum eo. Con-trans- habeo, TranS'haheo, That the Indian solution of the disputed etymology of Canada is the correct one, has been lately sup- ported in so remarkable a manner by the authority of a native Indian, that it may now be considered conclu- sively established. Duponceau, in the transactions of the Philosophical Society of Philadelphia, states in a note his conjecture as to the origin of the name of Canada, founding it upon the fact that in the trans- lation of the Gospel of St. Matthew into the Mohawk K 2 II: \ 51 .1 i 1 114 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, tougue, made by Brant the Indian Chief, in the upper Province, the word Canada is always used to signify a village. The mistake of the French who thus took the name of a part for that of the whole is quite pardonable in persons ignorant of the Indian language. They afterwards ernleavored to substi- tute the name of New France, but without success. We now approach a subject of considerable inte- rest and no slight difficulty — namely, the etymology of the name of Quebec. The Indians at the time of Jacques Cartier uniformly called it Stadacona. That name had perished before the time of Champlain, owing, probably, to the migration of the original tribe, and the succession of others. Indeed, the place itself has been shown to have been inconsiderable at his day, both as to importance and population. The Indians of Cartier's time were probably the Mon- tagnez, or inferior Algonquins, who afterwards retired to the neighborhood of the Saguenay : at the period of the arrival of Champlain, Quebec was possessed by a kindred tribe, or Upper Algonquins. La Potherie has furnished a derivation of this word, as fanciful as that which he had already given of Canada, without, however, vouching for its proba- bility ; — " On tient, que les Normands qui etoient avec Jacques Cartier, a sa premiere decouverte, ap- per^evant au bout de ITsle d'Orleans, un cap fort eleve, s'ecrierent Quel bee / et qu'a la suite du terns le nom de Quebec lui est reste. Je ne suis pas garand de cette etymologic :" — " It is said, that the Normans with Jacques Cartier at his first dis- covery, perceiving from the end of the Isle of Orleans a lofty cape, exclaimed. Quel bee ! what a promontory ! and that in the course of time the name of Quebec remained to it. I do not vouch for WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 115 jf, in the yrs used to rench who 3 whole is he Indian to substi- t success. :able inte- etymology the time of TADACONA. Champlain, le original d, the place iiderable at tion. The y the Mon- ards retired i the period 8 possessed ,f this word, "ly given of )r its proba- qui etoient luverte, ap- in cap fort lite du terns ne suispas said, that lis first dis- the Isle of ^ec / what a )f time the )t vouch for this etymology." It is hardly necessary to ob- serve that this derivation is entirely illusory and im- probable ; altho igh it must be confessed that the word itself, according to its present orthography, would lead us to consider it of Norman origin ; and it may generally be admitted, that in newly disco- vered lands almost all names are taken from some particular quality, or else transfered from another country. The associations which give rise to this practice are perfectly natural — they are connected with the finest feelings of human nature, and founded upon the love of country. It has, indeed, been inge- niously argued, that Quebec was so called after some spot on the River Seine, probably Caudebec ; brought to the remembrance of the first discoverers by the apparent resemblance of the locality. We have seen that the first Indian name of Que- bec was Stadacona, given to it by the tribes pos- sessing this portion of the country previously to the Hurons. The Huron name is Tia-ton-ta-rili, which signifies the place of the strait. Any one who observes the narrowing of the river at Cape Diamond, and its contraction to less than three quar- ters of a mile in breadth, will admit that it presents a striking natural feature ; and it would be peculiarly apparent to the eye of a savage, whose perception of every change in the natural economy and physical appearance of objects, possessing the highest interest as being connected with his sole pursuits of hunting and war, is wonderfully acute. All the Indian names of places are descriptive ; and the same name, or one bearing the same sense, in two different languages or dialects, will not appear to have any recognisable resemblance to him who does not understand both. It is highly probable, then, that Stadacona was of the ;t 'M 116 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ! li^l same import: as the name ^ivcn by the Hurons, and meant the phice of the strait. In the earlier period of the history of this country, wlien many of tlie inhabitants were familiar with the Indian tonii^ues, and when the import of the last Indian name was well known, the singular error was fallen into of snpposintr that Quebec was the Indian word vvhich sij^nirted the place of the strait. Char- levoix is the writer on whose authority this error, as we conceive it to be, has been transmitted ; although it has been somewhat inconsiderately thrown back upon Cham plain, who wrote more than a century before Charlevoix. The latter says in his third letter, speaking of the River St. Lawrence : " Au dessus de risle d'Orleans, il se retrecit tout a coupde cette sorte, que devant Quebec il n^a plus qu'une mille de largeur ; c'est ce qui a fait donner a cet endroit le nom de Quebec, qui en langue Algonquin signifie retrecissement .•" — " Above the Island of Orleans, it suddenly narrows, and that to such a degree as to be no more than a mile wide opposite to Quebec ; from which circumstance this place has been called Quebec, which in the Algonquin tongue signifies a strait" That this statement was made to Charlevoix upon the spot, there is no reason to doubt ; but it may have arisen from error, and was probably founded on the Huron name, the import of which was the place of the strait. The latter being familiarly known, owing to the residence of the Hurons at Lorette, and Que- bec having been considered an Indian word, in the course of time it came to be regarded as of the same meaning, although no such import can at the present day be traced. Thus Quebec was handed down as the place of the strait by Charlevoix : one wntei repeated it after another, — , , , Cham thorit) suppor of Can langua But th assertic vaut u liabitar ~« fin which t Again, aiiisi ap so calk plain sa 110 certi given t« dation ( being t tical CO indicat the sec confluer St. La of Quel authorit the Indi root Jiaj lariguag acquaint Vk 1 ons, and country, r with the f the last error was ;he Indian t. Char- j error, as ; although [•own back a century ;hird letter, Au dessus up de cette I'une mille t endroit le Liin signifie I Orleans, it •ee as to be ibec ; from ed Quebec, a strait.^^ ix upon the may have ded on the ;he place of own, owing , and Que- |ord, in the lof the same the present led down as one wiitei iil WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 117 Mensuraqiie ficti Crcscit, ct aiulitis illiquid iiovusadjicitauctor. So the story grew, And each narrator added something; new. CiiAMPLAiN, the earliest and, doubtless, the best au- thority on the subject has also been adduced in support of this opinion, in a note to Smith's History of Canada, page IG : " Quebec, in the Algonquin language signi(ie>a strait. Champlain, vol, 1, 115." But the words ot Champlain by no means prove the assertion here made. He says, in page 115, " Trou- vant un lieu le plus estroit de la riviere, que les liabitans du pays appellent Quebec, je fis bastir, &c. :" — " finding a place where the River was narrowest, which the inhabitants call Quebec, I began to build." Again, at page 124, we find, " La pointe de Quebec, ainsi appelle des sauvages :" — " The point of Quebec, so called by the savages." This is all that Cham- plain says, and it is by no means conclusive. There is no certainty from this, that the name of Quebec was given to this place by the Indians, prior to the foun- dation of the city, from the mere circumstance of its being the narrowest part of the River : the gramma- tical construction of the first quotation by no means indicates that : on the contrary, it would appear from the second quotation that it was the point, at the confluence of the Little River St. Charles with the St. Lawrence, to which the savages gave the name of Quebec. There being nothing, therefore, in the authority of Champlain decisive of Quebec being the Indian word for a strait, it may be added, that its root has never yet been discovered in any Indian language ; and that in the opinion of persons well acquainted with the native dialects, Quebec has not i 1 ■■! i:-!ia I .; '■q 118 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, to the ear any sound of an Indian word. The Algonquin tongue is of singular softness and sweet- ness, and may be considered as the Italian of the North American languages. Quebec, originally so written, is a harsh, abrupt sound, of which no parallel can easily be found in any of the Indian tongues, least of all in the Algonquin ; in which the sound P was always substituted for that of B, while in the Huron language the latter consonant is altogether rejected. Both these facts throw considerable dif- ficulty around the supposed Indian derivation of the name, with its present orthography. On the other hand, the word bears intrinsic evi- dence of Norman origin. The first syllable is French, and the last, 6ec, was uniformily applied by them to designate a promontory or cape, of which abundant instances may be adduced from their ancient maps. But evidence has lately been discovered, which esta- blishes, beyond doubt, that the word is of European origin, supposed on the best grounds to be Norman ; and that it was a place of sufficient importance to give one of his titles to a distinguished statesman and warrior, so early as the 7th year of the reign of Henry V. of England, the hero of Agincourt. On the opposite side is an engraving, which accu- rately represents the impression of the seal of Wil- liam DE LA Pole, Earl of Suffolk, a person of historical celebrity during the reigns of Henry V, and VI. The arms on the shield, the supporters, the helmet, and a representation of the Earl with the cap of maintenance upon his head, and ruff aroanri his neck, are quite perfect. The legend which is mutilated may thus be supplied : " Sigillum Wil- lielmi de la Pole, Comitis Suffolchije Domini DE Hambury et de Quebec." It is probable vord. The and sweet- lian of the .riginally so 1 no parallel an tongues, ;he sound P while in the 3 altogether iderable dif • ation of the itrinsic evi- le is French, by them to ch abundant ncient maps. , which esta- )f European be Norman; tance to give itesman and the reign of court. which accu- eal of WiL- a person of of Henry V, e supporters, ,arl with the ruff around 3nd which is LLUM WiL- HiiE Domini is probable i I / s: T^ :^ /6 /, z r /rd. c^n /^'O y A Ca-^^>-0 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, y] the French wars. He was constantly einployed in enterprises of the greatest trust ; and was equally efficient in the cabinet and in the field. It was his elder brother, who is introduced^ as having fallen in the glorious battle of Agincourt together with the Duke of York, in the beautiful episode of Shaks- PEARE, King Henry the fifth, Act fourth, Scene sixth : From helmet to the spur, all blood he was. In which array, brave soldier, doth he lie, Lardin"' the plain ; and by his bloody side, (Y(d<,ef«^llo\v to his honor-owinof wounds,) The noble Earl of Suffolk also lies. Suffolk first died, and York, all hafjg-led over. Comes to him, where in gore he lay insteep'd. And takes him by the beard — kisses the gashes, That bloodily did yawn upon his face. And cries aloud — Tarry, dear cousin Suffolk ! My soul shall thine keep company to Heaven: Tarry y sweet soulyfor 7nine, thenjfy a-breast. As, in this glorious and well-foutjhtenjitldy We kept together in our chivalry ! Upon these words, I came, and cheer'd him up : He srail'd me in the face, raught me his hand. And, with a feeble gripe, says, — Dear my lordy ' Commend my service to my sovereign. So did he turn, and over Suffolk's neck He threw his wounded arm, and kissed his lips ; And so, espous'd to death, with blood he seal'd A testament of noble-ending love. The pretty and sweet manner of it forc'd Those waters from me, which I would have stopp'd ; But 1 had not so much of man in me. But all ray mother came into my eyes, And gave me up to tears. In 1423, William de la Pole, in a fierce and well disputed action, defeated the Scottish and FrencliJ army commanded by John Stuart, Constable of Scotland, and the Count.de Ventadour, before Cre- mou diffic iiigh( lery siden celeb OF C scene the a succee was CO to JeTi Joan ; to capi self pr before tlier he answer, Renau lienor, upon w which d diately i SUFF( pensatec I payment I of an arr ally of E Ito Comp WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 121 nployed in vas equally It was his ing fallen in er with the J of Shaks- 3urth, Scene IS. e, s,) over, teep'd, gashes, iffulk ! mven : reast, tidy liim up : hand, |/j!/ lord, \k I his lips ; le seal'd have stopp'd ; in a fierce audi lish and Frenclil I Constable ofr lur, before Cre- vant in Burgundy, taking those generals prisoners, and leaving Sir William Hamilton and a thousand men dead on the field. This victory was of the greatest importance to the successful issue of the war, and the operations of the Regent, Duke of Bedford. In 1428, he commanded the English forces at the fa- mous siege of Orleans, where he displayed, under difficult circumstances, talents and qualities of the highest order. At this siege he had a train of artil- lery with him, which about that time was first con- sidered of military importance. It was here that the celebrated Joan of Arc, commonly called the Maid OF Orleans, made her first appearance upon the scene ; and effected by means of superstition what the arms of France had in vain attempted. She succeeded in raising the siege in 1429, and Suffolk was compelled to retreat with his panic-stricken army to Jergeau, where he was besieged by the irresistible Joan ; and after a gallant defence forced reluctantly to capitulate. Suffolk was obliged to yield him- self prisoner to a Frenchman named Renaud ; but before he submitted, he asked his adversary whe- ther he were a gentleman ? on receiving a satisfactory answer, he demanded whether he were a Knight ? Renaud replied, that he had not yet attained that honor. " Then I make you one," replied S"uffolk : upon which he gave him the blow with the sword, which dubbed him into that fraternity ; and he imme- diately surrendered himself his prisoner. Suffolk's disgrace an ' misfortune were soon com- pensated. Having effected his liberation by the I payment of a large ransom, he was again at the head of an army; and in conjunction with the powerful ally of England, the Duke of Burgundy, he laid siege to Compiegne in 1430, the garrison of which was •I 1 :i ^! 3 ilil itil U. 1*j2 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, commanded by the Maid of Orleans in person. Here the fortune of Joan of Arc deserted her ; or, according to common opinion, she was, through jea- lousy on the part of some French officers, purposely left unprotected in a sally which she had ordered, and was taken prisoner by the Burgundians. Her subsequent fate was a foul blot upon the character of the age : after some time passed in prison and in fetters, she was burned as a sorceress in the market place of Rouen* in 1432. At the Congress held at Arras, in 1435, Suffolk was one of the English Commissioners, together with the Cardinal of Winchester, to whose party in the state he had attached himself, in opposition to the Good Duke Humphrey of Glocester. The Cardinal's party were desirous of peace with France, at almost any sacrifice ; and as they prevailed at court, Suf- folk was despatched to Paris, in 1443, and concluded a truce for two years with the French King. One of the consequences of this truce, the marriage of Henry VI. with Margaret of Anjon, became so unpopular with the nation, that it ultimately caused the ruin of the Minister by whom it had been brought about. Suf- folk, who was the agent in this affair, is generally supposed to have had a tender interest in the regards of Margaret ; and his influence became paramount in the state, bringing with it all the ills which en- compass the perilous station of a royal favorite in rude and factious times. After the King's marriage he was created Marquess, and first Duke of Suffolk, and he even received a vote of thanks from the Par- liament. The entire loss of France a few years af- terwards, which was commonly attributed to the treachery of the Duke of Suffolk, on account of his sunDosed attachment to the Queen and the WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 123 in person, d her ; or, hrough jea- purposely ad ordered, Hans. Her [character of son and in the market 5, Suffolk tgether with arty in the tion to tlie eCardinaPs ), at almost court, SuF- p concluded \g. One of ^e of Henry )opular with ruin of the 'Out. SuF- :s generally the regards paramount s which en- favorite in 's marriage ' of Suffolk, m the Par- V years af- ted to the account of n and the French interest, exasperated the m'nds of the people and he was impeached by the Commons, in 1450. The charges against him, which are to be found at full length in the Rolls of Parliament of that reign, 28th Hen. VI. would not probably bear any strict scru- tiny; but as he was besides suspected by the people of having been implicated in the cruel murder of the Good Duke Humphrey, the favorite of the nation, the tide of unpopularity was too powerful for him to stem. Then, as now, there were few to aid a falling Minis- ter. The Duke, indeed, faced his accusers with great constancy, and made a bold and manly defence in the House of Peers, insisting upon his innocence, and even upon his merits, and those of his family in the public service. He stated that he had served his country in thirty-four campaigns — that he had been employed for the King in France for seventeen years without once returning to his native land — that he had been himself a prisoner, and had only regained his freedom by the payment of an exorbitant ransom. His father had died of fatigue at the siege of Har- fleur — his eldest brother had been killed at the battle of Agincourt — two others had perished at Jergeau where he had been taken prisoner — and his fourth brother, who had been his hostage while he was em- ployed in procuring ransom, had also died in the hands of the French. He complained that after his long services, after having repeatedly received the thanks of his sovereign, and of the Commons, after having been for thirty years an unspotted Knight of the Gar- ter, he should at length be suspected of having been debauched from his allegiance by that enemy, whom he had opposed with the utmost zeal and fortitude ; and of betraying his royal master, who had rewarded his services by the highest honors and greatest offices m ii'l -3 ^^K -^ iuLli I W\ '■" 124 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, that it was in his power to confer. This spef :^ only the more exasperated his enemies ; and in order to save him from their fury, Suffolk was sent by the King into banishment for five years, in the hope that he might then return to court without danger. But his inveterate foes were not to be so baffled : they employed a fast sailing vessel to intercept him in his passage to France, which came up to him near Dover. His head was immediately struck off on the side of the vessel, and the body cast into the sea. This nobleman is one of the Dramatis Personse of Shakspeare, in the first and second parts of King Henry VI. The dying scene is thus given in the second part, Act the fourth. Scene the first. Whitmore : Suffolk : Whitmore : Suffolk : Captain: Genlleman Suffolk : I lost mine eye in laying the prize aboard ; And, therefore, to reveng-e it, shalt thou die. Look on iny Georg-e, I am a g-entleman ; Rate me at what thou v ilt, thou shalt be paid. And so am T : my name is — Walter Whitmore — How now ? why start'st thou ? what, doth death affright ? Thy name affrights me, in whose sound is death. A cunning man did calculate my birth, And told me — that by water I should die : Yet let not this make thee so bloody minded. Thy name is Gualtie7\ being rightly sounded — Stay, Whitmore ; for thy prisoner is a Prince, The Duke of Suffolk, William de la Pole. Convey him hence, and on our long boat's side Strike off his head ! My glorious lord, entreat him, speak him fair. Suffolk's imperial tongue is stern and rough, Us'd to command, untaught to plead for favor. Far be it, we should honor such as these With humble suit : no, rather lot my head Stoop to the block, than these knees bow to any, Save to the God of Heaven, and to my King ; True nobility is exempt from fear : — More can 1 bear, than you dare execute. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 125 Some of the charges preferred by the Commons against Suffolk seem to afford a distant clew to the word " Quebec," which appears upon his seal. He was accused of having acquired for himself, and be- stowed upon his creatures and friends large posses- sions in France, to the prejudice of the Crown : — his unbounded influence in Normandy was complained of, where it appears he lived and ruled like a mo- narch ; and where he had so far acquired the affec- tion^of the inhabitants, that when they threw off their allegiance to England, the vulgar attributed it to the disaffection of Suffolk himself, through the interest of the Queen. Having shown, therefore, that this great nobleman had been closely connected with the English possessions in France for so many years, it is not unreasonable to conclude, that during his long services he had acquired the French title of " Quebec," in addition to his English honors. Many of the English Peers, distinguished in the wars of France, received titles of honor in that country ; as did the great Earl of Shrewsbury, " English John Talbot," who was created Earl of Valence by Henry VI. We have not been able to find, in the libraries to which we have access, any enumeration of the several titles of honor borne by the Duke of Suf- folk ; but there can be no doubt that such may be discovered in the British Museum, or the Herald's College. Whenever such discovery is made, the precise character of the place whence he took his title of " Quebec," which must have been of some importance, since it is introduced on his seal of arms, will no doubt be satisfactorily explained. That such a name existed nearly two centuries before the found- ation of this capital, bearing the self same orthogra- phy, must be acknowledged to be a striking and l 2 b i m 1 : S ,1 ■i i ,1 ' •! i ,., !;' 126 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, remarkable circumstance. Even as a mere coinci- dence, it is curious, and altogether, we think, con- clusive, that " Quebec," so written, has no claim to the character of an Indian word. The earliest writer, Champlain, and those who followed him, gave it the present mode of spelling. Father du Creux,in order to adapt the word to the Latin, uniformily writes it, " Arx Kebeccensis, Kebeccum ;" and in the Latin inscrip- tions which ^ ave been found in the foundations of the Recollet Church it is written with a K. Hence the initials in the French Cathedral, P. K., for " Paroecia Kebeccensis." In Major Walley's jour- nal of the expedition against Canada under Sir William Phipps, in 1690, it is called " Cabeck." With these exceptions it has uniformly preserved the Norman orthography, as given in the Suffolk seal. Granting, then, the Norman origin of the word, it may be asked how we dispose of the positive evidence of Champlain, who tells us, that the " point of Quebec was so called by the savages ?" This is not so difficult as at first view it may appear. We learn from La Potherie, that the little River St. Charles was called by the natives, Cabir-Coubat, on account of its serpentine course. " II y a une riviere a une petite demie lieue de la, appelee Cabir-Coubat par les sauvages, a raison des tours et detours qu'elle fait :" Voyage de PAmerique, Tom. 1. p. 124. Here then is an entire change in the Indian descrip- tion, equally accurate, but taken from another feature of the locality. We had before, the " place of the strait :" we have now, " the winding river." It has been stated that there is no proof that the name of " Quebec," heard by Champlain, was descriptive of the former appellation : there is every probability that it was taken from the latter. We believe, then, WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 127 I i I m that the word, Coubat, was the sound heard by Champlain, as applied by the natives to the " point," where the little river flows into the St. Lawrence ; and which spot was chosen by him for his first settle- ment. The time and quantity of the words themselves correspond : the number of the syllables and letters is the same, while the initial breathing is exa^ ' similar. One, pronounced by an Indian, ir . *!• easily be mistaken for the other. Lee any v^e slowly repeat the Indian name, Coubat. several times, always remembering the Italian softness of pro- nunciation which distinguished the Algonquin dialect; and he will not find it difficult to come to the conclu- sion, that he has at last found the true origin of the celebrated name, which in the mouths of the Freitch, already familiarised to the present termination, ac- cording so well wilii the locality, soon assumed the form, orthography and pronunciation of Quebec. The result of the foregoing observations amounts to this : That ae etymology of the word Canada is proved to be the Iroquois word Kannata, signifying a collection of huts, or a village; while there are strong grounds for believing that the name Quebec, per se, is in fact a Norman word. That some Indian name which resembled it in sound was heard by Champlain, and considered to be that of the place where he settled — that this Indian word was most probably the latter division of their name for the River St. Charles, Cabir-Coubat ; and that from this word, it gradually acquired its present appella- tion. )i iP i 128 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, i\.. If :,a CHAPTER THE EIGHTH. THE CASTLE OF ST. LEWIS — ITS FOUNDATION — CAP- TURE BY KERTK REMARKABLE SCENE THEREIN DESCRIBED BY LA POTriFRIE AND BY CHARLE- VOIX — DESTRUCTION BY FIRE. Few circumstances of discussion and enquiry are more interesting than the history and fate of ancient buildings, especially if we direct our attention to the fortunes and vicissitudes of those who were connected with them. The temper, genius and pursuits of an historical era are frequently delineated in the features of remarkable edifices : nor can any one contemplate them without experiencing curiosity concerning those who first formed the plan, and afterwards created and tenanted the structure, rhese observations apply particularly to the subject of this chapter. The history of the ancient Castle of St. Lewis, or Fort of Quebec, for aoove two centuries the seat of government in the Province, aflfords subjects of great and stirring interest during its several periods. The hall of the old Fort, during the weakness of the colony, was often a scene of terror and despair at the inroads of the persevering and ferocious Iroquois ; who, hav- ing passed or overthrown all the Frehch outposts, more than once threatened the Fort itself, and massacred some friendly Indians within sight of its walls. There, § r 1^ n i s -i f y. n ,^ -^1 lil ' ION — CAP- i: THEREIN Y ClIARLE- nquiry are ; of ancient ition to the I connected Irsuits of an ;he features ontemplate rning those !reated and ions apply . Lewis, or ilie seat of cts of great ods. The the colony, ihe inroads who, hav- posts,more massacred Is. There, > r L*-l ^ y. anoi WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 129 too, in intervals of peace, were laid those benevolent plans for the religious instruction and conversion of the savages, which at one time distinguished the policy of the ancient Governors. At a later era, when, under tiie protection of the French Kings, the Pro- vince had acquired the rudiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St. Lewis was remarkable, as having been the site whence the French Gover- nors exercised an immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of that noble river, its magnificent lakes, — and down the course of the Mississippi, to its outlet below New Orleans. The banner which first streamed from the battlements of Quebec, was displayed from a chain of forts, which protected the settlements through- out this vast extent of country : keeping the Eng- lish Colonies in constant alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this period, the council chamber of the Castle was the scene of many a midnight vigil, — many a long deliberation and deep-hid project, — to free the continent from the intrusion of the ancient rival of France, and assert throughout the supremacy of the Gallic lily. At anolh«r era^ odbsequent to the surrender of Quebec to the British arms, and until the recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of em- pire, of the government of which the Castle of Quebec was the principal seat, comprehended the whol * American coiicinent, north of Mexico ! It is asto- nishing to reflect for a moment, to how small, and, as to size, comparatively insignificant an island in the Atlantic ocean, this gigantic territory was once sub- ject ! Here also was rendered to the representative of the French King, with all its ancient forms, the fealty 130 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, and homage of the noblesse, and military retainers, who held possessions in the Province under the Crown — a feudal ceremony, suited to early times, which imposed a real and substantial obligation on those who performed it, not to be violated without forfeiture and dishonor. The King of Great Britain having succeeded to the rights of the French Crown, this ceremony is still maintained.* In England, it is also still performed by the Peers at the coronation of our Kings, in Westminster Abbey, although the ceremonr is much curtailed of its former impressive observaKices. The Castle of St. Lewis was in early times rather a strong hold of defence, than an embellished orna- ment of royalty. Seated on a tremendous preci- pice, — ,- t On a rock whose haughty brow Frown'd o*er St. Lawrence' foaming tide— and looking defiance to the utmost boldness of the assailant, nature lent her aid to the security of the position. The cliflf on which it stood rises nearly two hundred feet in perpendicular height above the * Fealty and homage is rendered at this day by the Seiffniors to the Governor, as the representative of the Sovereign m the following form : His Excellency being in full drevss and seated in a state chair, surrounded by his staff, and attended by the Attorney General, the Seignior, in an evening dress and wearing a sword, is introduced into his presence by the Inspector Ge- neral of the Royal Domain and Clerk of the Land Roll, and having delivered up his sword, and kneeling upon one knee before the Governor, places his right hand between his, and re. peats the ancient oath of fidelity ; after which a solemn act is drawn up in a register, kept for that purpose, which is signed by the Governor and the Seignior, and countersigned by the proper officers. sitior lie t July, taken name, comm might be n( WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 131 ry retainers, ; under the early times, )bligation on ited without jreat Britain ench Crown, by the Peers Westminster 1 curtailed of times rather Uished orna- ■ndous preci- m tide— D Idness of the curity of the rises nearly ht above the ythe Sei^niorb iovereign in the ress and seated ttended by the ess and wearing e Inspector Ge- and Koll, and upon one knee een his, and re* a solemn act is which is signed ersigned by the river. The Castle thus commanded on every side a most extensive prospect, and until the occupation of the higher ground to the south west, afterwards called Cape Diamond, must have been the principal object among the buildings of the city. When Champlain first laid the foundation of the Fort, in 1620, to which he gave the name of St. Lewis, it is evident that he was actuated by views of a po- litical, not of a commercial character. His mind was in better keeping with warlike enterprises than the acquirement of wealth, either for himself or his fol- lowers. He was perfectly disinterested in all his proceedings ; and foreseeing that Quebec would be- come the seat of dominion, and invite a struggle for its future possession, he knew the necessity of a strong hold, .and determined to erect one, in oppo- sition to the wishes of the company of merchants. He tells us, that on his return from France, in July, 1620, having read the King's commission, and taken possession of the country in the Viceroy's name, by his direction — " Part of the laborers commenced a fort, to avoid the dangers which might occur, seeing that without one there could be no security in a country removed by its dis- tance from all hopes of assistance. I placed this building in an excellent situation, upon a mountain which commanded the passage of the St. Lawrence, one of the narrowest parts of that River ; and yet none of the company's associates were able to per- ceive the necessity of a strong hold, for the preserva- tion of the country, and of their own property. The l»ouse thus built afibrded no satisfaction to them ; but for that matter, I felt it my duty, nevertheless, to carry into effect the commands of the Viceroy ; and this is the real way to avoid receiving an affront, for j^ ; fi 132 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, an enemy, who finds that there is nothing to be gained but blows, and much time and expense to be thrown away, will be cautions how he hazards his ves- sels and their crews. This shows that it is not always the thing to follow the passions of men, which obtain sway only for a time — we ouffht to have some con- sideration for the future." In 1621, Champlain received from the King a su. nly of arms and ammu- nition for his garrison ; which, however, he complains of as inadequate to the defence of the Fort. In 1G23, the barrack, or building for the soldiers and people, fell into such a state of decay, that it was determined to construct a new one of stone ; and the site chosen for this building appears to have been within the ramparts of the Fort, nearly on the brink of the precipice, and wliere tae Castle of St. Lewis now stands. Its design is thus described by Cham- plain as having been drawn by himself : " I made the plan of a new building, which was, to throw down all the old one, except the magazine, and in a line with that to erect other considerable buildings of eighteen fathoms, with two wings of ten fathoms on each side, and four turrets at the four ungles of tlie edifice : with also a ravelin before it commanding the River, and the whole inclosed with ditches and draw bridges." This description would give a front of two hundred and twenty eight feet ; but it is most pro- bable, that it was never finished to that extent. All the necessary materials were carefully collected dur- ing the winter of 1623, by the eighteen laborers whom Champlain had at his disposal ; and every one was kept in full employment. The inconvenience of as- cending the mountain from the water side to the Fort, induced him, this winter, to make a more commo- dious ascent by means of a winding pathway, which ^^ was in CI WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 133 was first opened on tlie 29th November. This road was afterwards widened, by removing portions of the rock ; and a row of houses was built upon it, whence it derived its modern name of Mountain Street, leading from Prescott-Gate to the Lower Town market-place, through Notre Dame Street, which was the original course of the serpentine ascent made by Champlain. The square or market-place in the Lower Town, was not built upon until many years afterwards ; and was originally called La place de Notre Dame de la Victoire, the Church having been consecrated in honor of the Virgin, by that title, in consequence of a vow made during the siege of Que- bec by Sir William Phipps, in 1690. This title was afterwards changed to Notre Dame des Victoires, m consequence of the shipwreck of the English fleet in 1711, which was considered a second victory. On the 20th April, 1624, a violent gale of wind blew off part of the roof of the Fort St. Lewis, carrying it thirty paces over the rampart. This was caused by its too great height, and the second story was con- sequently taken down. It will be recollected that a similar accident happened only a few years ago, not- withstanding that the building was substantially built of stone, and the roof strongly covered with tin. On the 1st May, Champlain marked out the line of the new buildings, and began to sink the foundation in the rock. Following the custom usually observed on similar occasions, he took care to deposit a stone with an appropriate inscription, commemorative of the occasion ; an account of which merits to be tran- scribed in the words of the original narration : " Le 6 de Mai, Ton commenc^aa ma^onnerlesfondements, sous lesquels je mis une pierre, ou estoient gravez les armes du Roy, et celles de Monseigneur, avec M i 134 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, la datte dii temps, et mon nom escrit, comme Lieu-*' tenant de mon dit Seigneur, au pais de la nouvelle France, qui estoit une curiosite qui me semble n'estre nullement hors de propos, pour un jour a I'advenir, si le temps y eschet ; monstrer la posses- sion que le Hoy en a prise, comme je Tai fait en quelques endroits, dans les terres que j'ay decou- vertes :" — " On the 6th May, we commenced the mason work of the foundation, under which I depo- sited a stone, on which were engraved the arms of the King and of the Viceroy, with the date and my own name thereon, as Lieutenant in the country of New France, which would hereafter prove a piece of antiquity by no means out of place^ should the time ever come, in order to show the possession which the King had taken of the country : a proceeding that I have adopted in other countries which I have dis- covered." The structure of which Champlain here speaks was, in all probability, the original on which the present Castle was afterwaras completed ; and as the old foundations must still remain, it would be proper, — on clearing away the present mass of ruins, preparatory to the erection of a new residence for the Governor-in-Chief of British North America, worthy of the site, — to make careful search for this stone, which would, indeed, be a curiosity of great local in- terest. It will, most probably, be found not far from the north-east angle of the main building. In order to avoid confusion between the terms Castle^ and Fort, of St. L«wis, it should be explained, that Jvese were separate structures, the one within the limits of the other ; and that in addition to the Castle, the Fort contained several other buildings, such as a ma- gazine, guard-room, and barrack for the soldiery, together with a considerable area, the whole enclosed WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 135 nme Lieu* la nouvelle ne semble un jour a r la posses- I'ai fait en j'ay decou- nenced the iclil depo- ;he arms of ate and my country of e a piece of dd the time )n which the ceding that I have dis- mplain here al on which ted ; and as it would be ass of ruins, ence for the rica, worthy this stone, eat local in- not far from ^, In order Castle^ and i, that ilvese the limits of Castle, the ich as a ma- he soldiery, ole enclosed I within a rampart, built originally of logs ; and looking, as Father du Creux observes, " towards the con- tinent," that is, from the River, or towards the city. The front towards the River is sufficiently protected by its lofty and, rugged eminence. The site of the first Fort is understood, from the description of Father du Creux, to have been at the south-east point of the ground which is now occupied by the grand battery, at a place called the Sault^au-Matelot, from a favorite dog of that name which there threw itself over the cliff.* Champlain afterwards removed it to a situation somewhat more elevated ; and the ramparts enclosed the space occupied at present by the various buildings appertaining to the Castle, and fronting towards the Place (VArmes. The street leading from the latter to Mountain Street, is still called Fort Street; and that in the Lower Town, immediately under the Cas- tle, bears the appropriate name of Sous-le-Fort Street. After the death of Champlain, it appears from Father du Creux, that his successor, Montmagny, put the Fort into complete repair. A rampart was made towards the Place (TArmes, of oak and cedar filled up with earth, and cannon were mounted on the top. * " Ad laevam fliiit amnis S. LaurentU. ; ad dextram S. Caroli fluviohis. Ad confliientero, Promontorium assurg^it, saltum nautce vu\oro vocant, ab cane hujus nominis, qui se alias ex eo loco praecipitem dedit. Hujus in promontorii crepidiiie Arx sediticata. £t initio quidem, ut tenuia sunt rerum vel magnarum primordia, vallum potiiis, qiiam Arx fuit, stipitibus utcunque inter se commissis, exiguaque g'leba coalitis, operl^ curaque Camplenii : quae moles rudis, indi^estaque, cum ad hunc annum perstitisset, a Monteraagnio re, virisque paulo auctiore paulatim disjecta, cessit ei munitioni qiise nunc est, loncre (irmior eadem, et ad artis regulam, normamque exactior." Hii^toria Canadensis, p. 204. ii i: 136 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I It had also a covered way for the protection of the garrison : the whole being surrounded by a dry ditch. England and France being then at war, Cham- plain received information, in July, 1629, of the arrival of an English sq^ i Iron at Pointe Levi. That an attack should be made so late in the season was entirely unexpected, and Champlain was nearly left alone in the Fort, his men having been detached on various duties. This English armament had been despatched by Sir David Kertk, who then lay at Tadoussac, and was under the command of his brother Thomas, as Vice- Admiral. Another brother, Louis, had the command of about one hundred and fifty soldiers. In his weak, and really helpless condition, which is feelingly portrayed in his narrative, Cham- plain had no alternative. He was compelled to capitulate. A white flag was therefore hoisted at Fort St. Lewis, in answer to one which had been dis- played by the English ; and an officer coming on shore, the terms of surrender, wliich were generous on the part of the assailants, wer » agreed upon and signed on the 20th July, 1629. On the 22d, Louis Kertk planted the English Standard on one of the bastions of the Fort, with all ceremony. A feu de joie was fired by the troops, drawn out upon the ramparts ; and salutes from the cannon of the Fort, which were answered by the shipping in the harbor. Champlain, who expresses himself satisfied with the generous conduct of Kertk, arrived at Plymouth, as a prisoner of war, on the 20th October in the same year. In 1632 he published his " Voyages," or personal memoirs ; and resumed the government of the Colony, which had been restored to the French, in 1633. ... WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 137 Ion of the by a dry ar, Cham- 29, of the ,evi. That season was nearly left etached on had been ;hen lay at his brother her, Louis, d and fifty 8 condition, ive, Cham- mpelled to hoisted at id been dis- coming on •e generous { upon and 22d, Louis one of the A feu de t upon the f the Fort, the harbor, tisfied with t Plymouth, in the same oyages," or ernment of the French, 1 In 1690, a remarkable scene occurred in the Castle of St. Lewis, which at that period had assumed an appearance worthy of the Governors General, who made it the seat of the Koyal Government. This dignity was then held by the Count de Frontenac, a nobleman of great talents, long services, but of ex- treme pride. He had made every preparation that short notice would permit for the reception of the English expedition against Quebec, under Sir Wil- liam Phipps, which came to anchor in the basin on the 5th October, old style. Charlevoix, using the new style, makes the date the 16th. The English had every reason to expect that the city was without defence, and that they might capture it by sur- prise. An officer was sent ashore with a flag of truce, who was met half way by a French Major ; and, after a bandage had been placed before his eyes, was conducted to the Castle by a circuitous route, that he might hear the warlike preparations which were going on, and feel the number of obstructions and barriers of chevaux-de-frise which were to be passed, in the ascent to the Upper Town. Every deception was practised to induce the Englishman to believe that he was in the midst of a numerous gar- rison ; and some of the contrivances were ludicrous enough. Ten or twelve men were instructed to meet him, to cross his path at different places, and to pass and repass constantly during the way. The very ladies came out to enjoy the singular spectacle of a man led blindfold by two Serjeants in this manner, and bestowed upon him the nickname of Colin Mail- lard, There can be little doubt, however, that he perceived the trick played upon him. On arrival at the Castle, his surprise is represented to have been extreme, on the removal of the bandage, to find him- M 2 I '. f!lif llilll 'liiiiiLij : 138 self in tbi NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, of the Governor General, th< presence Bishop, the Intendant, and a large staff of Frencii officers, arrayed in full uniform for the occasion, who were clustered together in the centre of the great hall. The English officer immediately presented to Frontenac a written summons to surrender, in the name of William and Mary, King and Queen of England ; and drawing out his watch and placing it on the table, demanded a positive answer in an hour at furthest. This last action completed the excite- ment of the French officers, who had been with dif- ficulty able to restrain themselves during the delivery of the summons, which the Englishman read in a loud voice, and which was translated into French on the spot. A murmur of indignation ran through the assembly ; and one of the officers present, (he Sieur de Valrenes, impetuously exclaimed, " that the mes- senger ought to be treated as the envoy of a corsair, or common marauder, since Phipps was in arms against his legitimate sovereign." Frontenac, although his pride was deeply wounded by the unceremonious manner of the Englishman, conducted himself with greater moderation ; and, without seeming to have heard the interruption of Valrenes, made the following high-spirited answer : " You will have no occasion to wait so long for my reply. Here it is. I do not recognise King William, but I know that the Prince of Orange is an usurper, who has violated the most sacred ties of blood and of religion in dethroning the King, his father-in-law ; and 1 acknowledge no other legitimate sovereign of England than James the Se- cond. Sir William Phipps ought not to be surprised at the hostilities carried on by the French and their Allies — he ought to have expected that the King, my master, having received the King of England WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 139 eneral, the of French casion, who f the great resented to der, in the Queen of I placing it in an hour the excite- m with dif- the delivery ad in a loud ;nch on the h rough the t, 4he Sieur lat the mes- 3f a corsair, as in arms ac, although jeremonious limself with ng to have he following no occasion s. I do not tthe Prince ed the most ihroning the ge no other mes the Se- )e surprised ;h and their the King? of England under his protection, would direct me to make war upon people who have revolted against their lawful Prince. Could he imagine, even if he had offered me better conditions, and even if I were of a temper to listen to them, that so many gallant gentlemen would consent, or advise me to place any confidence in that man's word, who has broken the capitulation which he made with the Governor of Acadia? — who has been wanting in loyalty towards his sovereign — who has forgotten all the benefits heaped upon him, to follow the fortunes of a stranger, who, while he endeavors to persuade the world that he has no other object in view than to be the deliverer of England and defender of the faith, has destroyed the laws and privileges of the kingdom, and overturned the Eng- lish Church — crimes, which that same divine justice, which Sir William invokes, will one day severely punish." , 7 rir.ti-,/: '• t • The Englishman, hereupon, deman led that this reply should be reduced to writing : which Frontenac peremptorily refused, adding, — " I am going to an- swer your master by the cannon's mouth. H • shall be taught that this is not the manner in which a person of my rank ought to be summoned." The bandage having been replaced, the English officer was re-con- ducted with the same mysteries to his boat; and was no sooner on board the Admiral's vessel, than the bat- teries began to play eighteen and twenty-four pound shot upon the fleet. 8ir William's. own flag was shot away by a French officer, named Maricourt ; and having been picked up by sofr;e Canadians, was hung up as a trophy in the Cathedral Church, where it probably remained until the capture in 1759. The English bombarded the town, which, in spite of the bold front of Frontenac, was in a terrible state of 4 til m'i . mil 140 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, confusion and alarm ; and did some damage to the public buildings. - ' • -' ' ' ' ; Charlevoix seems to admire greatly the haughty bearing of Frontenac on this occasion : it is but just to remark, however, that by his own showing, the Englishman executed his mission with the greatest coolness and presence of mind ; and that the insult he received was little creditable to those who knew not how to respect a flag of truce. . ; Sir William Phipps, ancestor of the present Earl of Mulgrave, was generally blamed for the failure of this expedition, perhaps unjustly. Finding the place on its guard and prepared to receive him, it would have been madness to have commenced a regular siege, at that advanced period of the season. As it was, he lost several of his vessels on his passage back to Boston. It should be remembered also, that it was Quebec aijainst which he was sent, itself a natu- ral fortress, and when defended by a zealous gar- rison, almost impregnable. . And it is admitted by Charlevoix, that had Sir William Phipps not been delayed by contrary winds and the ignorance of his pilots, — najr, had he even reached Quebec three days sooner, he would have completely accomplished his object, and Quebec would have been captured be- fore it could be known in Montreal that it was even in danger. - '»n There were great rejoicings at Quebec for the vic- tory ; and the King of France ordered a medal to be struck, with this inscription : " Francia in novo orbe victrix, Kebeca Hberata M, DC, XC" The Count de Frontenac was certainly one of the most distin- guished of the French Governors. He died in Que- bec in 1698, and was buried in the Recollet Church, which formerly stood near the site of the present WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 141 age to the he haughty ; is but just owing, the he greatest ; the insult i who knew resent Earl le failure of ig the place n, it would I a regular soil. As it lassage back also, that it tself a natu- zealous gar- Idmitted by ps not been ance of his c three days nplished his aptured be- it was even for the vic- medal to be in novo orbe The Count nost distin- ied in Que- llet Church, the present English Cathedral. The only memorial of him in Quebec, is to be found in the Street which was called from his family name, Buade Street. La Hontan, who was in Quebec during the time of the siege in 1690, in an engraved view of the city in his work, gives the Castle only one story. La PoTHERiE, who was here in 1698, gives also a view of the city as it then appeared. The Castle of St. Lewis is represented as two stories high, and with a lofty attic ; forming a very conspicuous object. To the left is seen the square inclosure, in which is now placed the obelisk erected to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. It was then a garden, apparently without trees. Of the Castle itself, he gives the fol- lowing description : " It stands upon the brink of a vast clitF, one hundred and eighty feet high. Its fortifications are irregular, having two bastions on the city side, without any ditch. The house of the Go- vernor General is one hundred and twenty feet long, in front of which is a terrace of eighty feet, which overlooks the Lower Town and the channel. The edifice is pleasing, both as regards its interior and ex- terior, on account of the wings which form the build- ing in front and rear. It is two stories high, and there is still wanting a wing of thirty-three feet long. On the side of the house there is a battery of twenty- two embrasures, partly inclosed in the building, and part without, commanding the Lower Town and the River. At four hundred paces above is Cape Dia- mond, four hundred and eighty feet high, upon which stands a redoubt which commands the Upper Town and the adjacent country." Charlevoix, who arrived in Quebec, in 1720, furnishes an account nearly similar, though not so diffuse. He says, " The Fort or Citadel is a fine 142 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, building, with two pavilions by way of wings ; you enter it through a spacious and regular court, but it has no garden belonging to it, the Fort being built on the brink of the rock. This defect is supplied in some measure with a beautiful gallery, with a balcony, which reaches the whole length of the building : it commands the road, to the middle of which one may be easily heard, by means of a speaking-trumpet ; and hence, too, you see the whole Lower Town under your feet. On leaving the Fort, and turning to the left, you enter a pretty large esplanade, and by a gentle declivity you reach the summit ef Cape Dia- mond, which makes a very fine platform," Such was the state of the Castle of St. Lewis, with occasional reparations and additions, until near the close of the last century ; when, from its tendency to decay, it was found necessary to erect a new building for the residence of the Governor, on the opposite side of the square. This structure has no pretensions to beauty or style of architecture, but contains seve- ral well-proportioned rooms. The Ancient Castle, notwithstanding, continued to be occupied by the officers of government until 1809, during the admi- nistration of General Sir James Henry Craig, Knight of the Bath ; when it was put into complete lepair, at an expense of ten thousand pounds, a third story superadded, and it recovered its former honors as the residence of the Governor-in-Chief of Lower Canada. Thus renovated, it acquired, insensibly, the name of the New, v liile the build- ing opposite obtained that of the Old Chateau. By popular error, therefore, as is not unfrequently the case, the attributes of these two buildings were reversed. In the latter continue to be held the Levees on state occasionp ; and there are spacious WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. i4d nngs ; you 3iirt, but it being built supplied in 1 a balcony, uildiiig : it ch one may g-trumpet ; Fown under ning to the I, and by a • Cape Dia- fy Lewis, with til near the tendency to lew building opposite side [etensions to litains seve- ent Castle, jied by the g the admi- iRY Craig, to complete pounds, a its former r-in-Chief acquired, e the build- ,D Chateau. nfrequently Idings were )e held the ire spacious : and convenient rooms of reception for public enter- tainments, with apartments for the residence of one of the officers of the Governor's personal staff. In this building are to be seen two paintings of lasting interest, being the likenesses of Their Majesties, King George the Third, and Queen Char- lotte, painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and present- ed by His Majesty to this Government. To those who remember the venerable Monarch in his latter days, this picture, taken in early manhood, will as- sume the character almost of antiquity. In the ball- room, there is also a good copy of Sir Thomas Lawrence's full length portrait of King George the Fourth. The length of the modern Castle of St. Lewis, in- cluding the wings, was more than two hundred feet ; and that was the extent of the gallery in front, com- manding one of the most beautiful views in the world. The depth was about forty feet. Its exterior was plain and unassuming, the interior well arranged, and ap- parently well adapted for the purpose for which it was design'fed. The apartments on the first floor, in which the family of the Governor -in-Chief resided, were furnished in an elegant and tasteful manner, orna- mented by valuable paintings, drawings and prints, and various objects of vertu. Although by no means large, or equal to those found in the private residencjs of tlie nobility generally, they presented a very pleas- ing coup d'cBil, when thrown open to those who were honored with the entree. Here were given the pri- vate entertainments of the Governor, to which the gentry of the city and vicinity were freely invited during the winter, always the season of hospitality in Canada. . , . „, ,. • . ^ > . li 153 i 144 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, We have now to record the destruction of this edifice, over whose historical glories we have dwelt with so much pleasure. About noon, on Thursday, the 23d January, 1834, an alarm of fire was given — the tocsin sounded — and to the eager and anxious enquiries of the citizens, running to and fro, the ap- palling answer was given, " To the Castle, the Castle !" On hurrying to the scene, volumes of black smoke, rolling from the roof, told the fearful truth. The fire was first discovered in a room on the upper story, and having spread through its whole extent, and taken hold of the rafters which supported the massive roof, it burned downwards with irrepres- sible fury, until it triumphed over the entire build- ing. As no flame was apparent from the outside for a considerable space of time, i> was scarcely believed by the anxious spectator, that the whole pile was en- dangered. Vain hopes were even entertained that the lower ranges of apartments might be saved. At last, the devouring element burst its way through the strong tinned roof with tremendous force, and the flames, thus finding a vent, spread with dreadful rapidity through every part of the building :-r — — Toto dcscendit norporo pestis : ^ec vires heroum, iafusaque flumina prosunt. Every possible exertion to subdue the conflagra- tion was made by the different Fire Companies, the troops of the garrison, and inhabitants of all classes. Some of the most respectable citizens, of every pro- fession, were seen busily occupied in removing the valuable furniture and effects ; and others assisted in conveying to a place of safety some of the ornaments of the dinner table, which was Uiid ; and at which, by invitation, they were to have been partakers that WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 145 ction of this e have dwelt •n Thursday, re was given and anxious I fro, the ap- Castle, the volumes of 1 the fearful n a room on igh its whole ch supported i^ith irrepres- entire build- le outside for 3ely believed pile was en- ;rtained that B saved. At wsLy through IS foice, and svith dreadful ing :^ osunt. e conflagra- mpanies, the of all classes, of every pro- •emoving the rs assisted in le ornaments i at which, by &r takers thut very day, of the Governor's hospitality. On a pedes- tal which stood at the head of the principal staircase, close to the entrance of the first drawing-room, was placed a bust of the immortal Wolfe, bearing the following elegant inscription : - * Let no vain tear upon his tomb be shed, ^ ,^ A common tribute to the common dead; ' But let the good, the g-enerous and the brave, ■ ' With godlike envy sign for such a grave ! This invaluable bust, in the melee and confusion, would probably have been destroyed, had not a gentleman made it his first care to rescue it, and to convey it, like another Palladium, to a place of safety. The intense cold of the <^ay added considerably to the difficulty of suppressing the flames. In the morning the thermometer indicated twenty-two degrees, and during the day from four to eight degrees below zero, with a cold and piercing westerly wind. The engines were, therefore, soon frozen up, and could only be rendered serviceable by constant supplies of warm water. At length it became too apparent, that any successful attempt to arrest the progress of the flames was hopeless — all efforts to save even a portion of the building proved ineffectual — and the morning disclosed to the sight of the inhabitants a mass of smoking ruins, to remind them of the loss which the Province and the city had sustained. Apart from the painful sense of the destruction of this ancient and celebrated building, so iden- tified with our colonial history, the sight itself was throughout the day deeply impressive — at night fall, grand in the extreme. The extent of the structure, the numerous windows and openings, its great elevation and peculiar position as to the Lower N i 146 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC,?' •• ' Town, actually overhanging its streets, so that the burning flakes fell upon the roofs of the houses below, combined to make this mastery of the flames almost an object to be admired. The scene, from the Lower Town, was truly picturesque; and at a distance, the view of the fire, and its reflection on the ice and snow, have been described as singularly beautiful. The Provincial Parliament being then in session, His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief sent down the following message, on the 24th January, 1834 : — " Aylmer, Governor-in-Chief. " It is with regret that His Excellency feels him- self under the necessity of informing the House of Assembly, that the ancient Castle of St, Lewis, which he occupied as his official residence, caught fire yes- terday about noon, and that notwithstanding the efforts of His Majesty *s troops, of his Honor the Mayor of Quebec, of the gentlemen of the Seminary, of the firemen and the crowd of citizens of all classes, who had hastened to the spot, and exerted themselves unceasingly to save thav public edifice, it Las entirely become a prey to the flames. ** Castle of St. Lewis, «« Quebec, 24th January, L<^4." This was replied to in the Legislative Council by a loyal address of condolence, and an expression of readiness on their part to unite in any appro- priation which might come before them, for the purpose of erecting a suitable residence for the Gover- nor-in-Chief of these Provinces. It has been generally regretted that the House of Assembly did not proceed upon this message ; but it is to be hoped and expect- ed on the part of the people of the Province, that another session will not be allowed to pass over vath- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 147 out an appropriation being made by their represen- tatives, for an object so necessary and indispensable, and at the same time, so independent of party feeling and prejudice. The beauty of the vacant site, and the extent of the area will afford an opportunity of erecting an edifice worthy of its ancient fame, honor- able to the Province, and ornamental to the city of Quebec, as yet too deficient in public buildings where taste in architecture is displayed. Such is a sketch of the history of the Castle of St. Lewis, for above two centuries the seat of colonial government:. It is now a heap of blackened ruins. Relics like these, however, at once engage the at- tention by recalling images of past grandeur, of names once illustrious, and of deeds that still adorn the historic page. Nor is there any mental associa- tion productive of so much melancholy pleasure, as that which unites the idea of those who tenanted an ancient edifice in its prosperous day, with the con- templation of the solitude and ruin to which the pile has since been doomed. .AJ^ II! 148 ' KKW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, THE RUINED CHATEAU. Here, from these storied walls, in nncient day By Champlain raised, the patriot and the brave — The Gallic Lily once claimed reg-al sway. Where'er St. Lawrence rolls his mighty wave ? Thy latest* Chief, who ne*er from honor swerv'd. With ebbinorlife resigned his pride of place-^ Thy fealty changed, thy glories all preserv'd, The Bi itish Lion guards thee from disgrace I Lo . shall thy gentler triumphs be our theme, 'L'h/ beauteous d;imes, thy gallant, plumed train ; The gi ; t and good flit by me as a dream. Who once kept here their hospitable reign ! Here has the table groaned with lordly cheer — Here has the toast, the dance, the well-trill'd song. Welcomed each coming of the infant year. And served the festive moments to prolong I Still, midst these luined heaps, in mental pain, Does faithful memory former years restore— Recall the busy throng, the jocund train. And picture all that charmed us here before ! Yet now, how changed the scene ! 'Tis silence all — Save where the heedful sentry steps his round ! We may not look upon that ruined hall. Nor venerate the site so long renown'd ! Sings WITH HISTORICA^i RECOLLECTIONS. 149 ve — Lin : songf, all— CHAPTER THE NINTH. ANCIENT APPEARANCE OP THE CITY — GENERAL DES- CRIPTION — CAPE DIAMOND — THE FORTIFICATIONS. The settlement of colonies has always been a sub- ject of deep historical interest and research. Their successful establishment has, indeed, been attended with the happiest results to mankind By them new worlds have been peopled — langupget perpetuated — commerce extended, and the art of navigation brought to its present state of perfect^'on. The bles- sings of true religion have been communicated to man, redeemed from his savage sti »e ; while cities and turretted walls have supplanted the solitude of the desert and the forest, or taken the place of the pri- mitive caves and wigwams of the aboriginal inha- bitants. By colonies the face of the earth has been cultivated, and the produce of the soil rendered the means of subsistence and social happiness. The principal design of the French settlements in Canada, — after the trade in peltry had proved suf- ficiently attractive to the associated merchants of France, to induce them to maintain their property in the country — was evidently to propagate the Chris- tian religion as professed by the founders of Quebec, to tame and civilize the heathen, and to bring him to the worship of the true God. It was a common N 2 i 150 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, saying of Champlain, " That the salvation of one soul was of more value than the conquest of an em- pire !" Their next object was of a more mundane and political complexion, namely, to acquire a prepon- derance on the American continentby means of their priesthood, — and through the influence wliich gra- titude for their services had procured them among the Indian tribes, to whose temporal and spiritual wants they had rendered themselves nearly equally necessary, and whose affections they left no means unattempted to engage and retain. This policy, long acted upon, influenced every part of their system. It extended even to the cha- racter of the earliest edifices which they erected in this country. The only permanent buildings were those devoted to the purposes of war and religion. The irregularity of the lines of the different streets in Quebec is attributable to the same remote cause. Any one who examines the site of the city will per- ceive at once, that the greater portion of the area was occupied from the first by its public buildings. To show this more clearly, let us take a brief survey of the ancient city. The space occupied by the buildings of the ancient Fort, afterwards the Castle of St. Lewis, was very ex- tensive, reaching from Prescott-Gateto the commence- ment of the acclivity of Cape Diamond, and including the large open space where Wolfe's column now stands. Formerly there were no houses between the Castle and the Cape, and St. Lewis Street was merely a military road. Immediately in front of the Castle was an esplanade or open space, still called the Place d'Armes, on one side of which stood the Church and Convent of the Recollet Monks. Their build- ings, with the garden, occupied the whole site on t no means WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 151 which stand the Court House and the English Cathe^ dral. They possessed the entire area between St. Anne and St. Lewis Streets, and gave the modern name of Garden Street. Not far from the corner of the Place d^Armes, in St. Anne Street, there stands within the precincts of the Church close, a venerable tree, the last relic of those which once shaded the RecoUet fathers — a touching monument of olden time — perhaps the last tenant of the primeval forest. Under this tree or on its site, tradition relates that Champlain pitched his tent, on landing and taking possession of his new domain. Here he lived until the habitation, which he was building near the brink of the rock, was ready for the reception of his little band. In the rear of the Recollet Church, at a short distance from it, was the Ursuline Convent, still oc- cupying with its garden a considerable space enclosed within St. Anne, St. Lewis and St. Ursule Streets. Beyond the latter were the ancient ramparts of the city. St. Anne Street divided the possessions of the Ursuline Nuns from those of the Jesuits. The Col- lege of the latter stood in a considerable square, now the market-place ; and was surrounded by a garden, planted with lofty and umbrageous trees, extending from St. Anne to St. John Streets. The French Ca- thedral, occupying one side of this square, and its attached buildings covered a space reaching to Fort Street, and was divided from the Place d Armes by a road, which was afterwards Buade Street. At the descent into Mountain Street, the buildings belong- ing to the French Cathedral communicated with the site occupied by the Bishop's Palace and gardens, reaching to the edge of the rock. The ancient Palace is said to have been equal to many similar establish- ments in France. From the French Cathedral to the 152 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, f Grand Battery, the site is covered with the buildings and garden of the Seminary, bounded also by Hope Street, formerly Ste. Faraille Street, and St. George's Street. The Seminary garden overlooks the Lower Town, near the place formerly called the Sault-au- MateloL At a short distance from it are the grounds belonging to the Hotel Dieu, which extend along the summit of the cliff from Hope-Gate, and are bounded irregularly by Palace Street and Couillard Street. The different buildings above enumerated with their spacious gardens, added to the sites occu- pied by the magazines, and other government build- ings, together with the spaces reserved for military purposes, occupied nearly the whole of the level ground within the ramparts. It is evident, therefore, that the early inhabitants had no alternative ; and were compelled to build in directions leading from one of these public buildings to another, or around their precincts. Those who came to settle in Quebec were, doubtless, attracted by the neighborhood of the different churches, and the protection afforded by the Fort. They erected their small and tempo- rary habitations as near as possible to the con- vents, whence, in times of scarcity or sickness they received support and medical aid. Hence the wind- ing and irregular character of some of the smaller streets, particularly of those in the vicinity of the Hotel Dieu and the Ursuline Convent. The nature of the ground, or rather rock, on which the city is built, effectually preventec ny regularity of design. The most level site wa« the easiest and cheapest — strait lines were disregarded in comparison with present convenience — consequently, a house 'here a level foundation could best was ,ly 1^ I. ^1 be found ; and those places which were rugged and It ;Iie buildings Iso by Hope St. George's C8 the Lower ;he Sault-aU" 3 the grounds jxtend along ite, and are ,nd Couillard enumerated le sites occu- nment build- for military of the level nt, therefore, 'native ; and leading from r, or around fie in Quebec bborhood of tion afforded and tempo- to the con- ickness they ce the wind- the smaller inity of the ck, on which ly regularity e easiest and 1 comparison ly, a house m could best rugged and . 1 c t precipit more er difficult During 1608, poorly partly kept tli( any ex Little, they re winter, air. Ai venienc* that wl 1639, i they we pany of Mo.VTM govern n having f niture ii a rude ki of the sj embellis cient ap buildinq^ cumstan quent hi of taste the arch and dura symmetr within tl came in WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 153 precipitous were left unoccupied, until some one, more enterprising or with better means, overcame the difficulty, and succeeded in establishing his edifice. During the first fifty years after the foundation in 1608, the houses were extremely small, mean and poorly furnished ; partly from want of means, and partly from fear of the Iroquois, whose incursions kept the inhabitants in constant dread, and prevented any expense being incurred in these particulars. Little, however, sufficed for the first colonists : all they required was shelter and warmth daring the winter. The summer was passed chiefly in the open air. As an example of the want of furniture and con- veniences in the old habitations, it may be mentioned that when the Hos/ntalUres arrived in Quebec in 1639, ror the purpose of founding i,he Hotel Dieu, they were lodged in a house belonging to the com- pany of Merchants, lent to them by the Chevalier de MoNTM-VGNY, who succcedcd Champlain in the government. The house is, indeed, described as having four rooms and two closets ; b ut the only fur- niture in it for the accommodation of these ladies was a rude kind of table made of boards, and two benches of the same material ! The absence of architectural embellishment must always be lamented ; but a suf- cient apology for the want of symmetry in the buildings of Quebec, may be found in the peculiar cir- cumstances of the early settlers, and the subse- quent history of the colony. Even now, no degree of taste is discernible in the public buildings. — the architects have had principally in view strength and durability — utility has rather been consulted than symmetry of construction. Almost all the houses within the works are built of stone, either rough as it c-ame in masses from the rock, or hewn into shape tl 154 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, at the fancy of the architect, and afterwards covered with paint or cement. The capital of the Province of Lower Canada, and the principal seat of British dominion in America, cannot be approached by the intelligent stranger without emotions of respect and admiration. It is situated on the north-west side of the great River St. Lawrence, in latitude 46° 59' 15'', and longitude 71° 13'. A ridge of high land commencing at Cap Rouge, and extending for about eight miles along its bank, terminates at the eastern extremity in a lofty promontory, three hundred and fifty feet high above the water, rising in front of the beautiful basin formed by the confluence of the little River St. Charles with the St. Lawrence. There stands Quebec, formerly the seat of the French empire in the west — purchas- ed for England by the blood of the heroic Wolfe, shed in the decisive battle of the Plains of Abraham. A commodious harbor, which can aflford a safe ancho- rage for several fleets — a magnificent river whose banks are secured by steep cliffs — a position on a lofty rock, which bids defiance to external violence, together with extraordinary beauty of scenery, aic • some of the natural advantages which distinguish the City of Quebec. The River St. Lawrence, which flows majestically before the town, is one of the greatest, most noble and beautiful of rivers ; and at the same time, the furthest navigable for vessels of a large size of any in the universe. From its mouth in the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the harbor of Que- J3i,c is three hundred and sixty miles ; and vessels from Europe ascend to Montreal, which is one hundred and eighty miles higher up its course. A precipice of naked and rugged rock, nearly three hundred feet high, divides the Upper from the Lower iown. cipice, conside reign t is built the roc numero the ace channel eleven of the r and go The U pearanc dually a —em be lofty sp from the I On t • the pro hundred and ten whence land, telegrap hattery. DEL of powerful there it has celebrate been U ca WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 155 ids covered Z^anada, and n America, nt stranger ition. It is ^at River St. d longitude icing at Cap lies along its ty in a lofty t high above basin formed Charles with JEC, formerly ;st — purchasj- roic Wolfe, of Abraham, a safe ancho- river whose position on a nal violence, scenery, aio stinguish the rence, which one of the vers ; and at or vessels of •om its mouth )or of QuE- and vessels which is one s course. A nearly three )m the Lower Town. The latter, embracing the foot of the pre- cipice, and skirting the base of the promontory to a considerable extent on both sides, is the mart of fo- reign trade and the principal place of business. It is built on ground made partly by excavations from the rock, or redeemed from the water ; and contains numerous and convenient wharfs and store Iiouses, for the accommodation of trade and navigation. The channel before the town is rkpid — its breadth is about eleven hundred and thirty-four yards. The depth of the river opposite the city is about thirty fathoms and good anchorage is every wliere to be found. The Upper Town presents the picturesque ap- pearance of a fortified city — whose houses rise gra- dually above each other in the form of an amphitheatre —embellished and diversified by large buildings and lofty spires, pouring a flood of light and splendor from their bright tinned roofs. * THE CITADEL. On the extreme left, on the highest point of • the promontory, is Cape Diamond, rising three hundred and fifty feet above the level of tiie river, and terminating towards the east in a round tower, whence is displayed the national standard of Eng- land. Immediaiely in the rear is the cavalier and telegraph, and adjoining may be seen the saluting hattery. The fortress on Cape Diamond, or Cita- del OF Quebec, is a formidable combination of powerful works ; and while it is admitted that there i ^ no similar 'nilitary work on this continent, it has been considered second to few of the most celebrated fortresses of Europe. It has frequently been called the Gibraltar of America ; and !l i ii 'iWW i i 156 i?£W PICTUAE OF QUEBEC, it is, indeed, wortLy of tl^e great nation, wKo^ /- fame and enduring renown are reflected in this du^ (fauvre o( nature and of art — con^^cviicwd at tlie e:- pense of Great Britain for our def^!)f!e — at once a monument of her own power, and a pledge of protec- tion to one of the most valuable, although remote, possessions of the British Crown ! Quebec is one of the strongest and most distinguished of those " military posts," which are alluded to in the following beautiful passage from a speech lately pronounced by the Honorable Daniel Webster in the Senate of the United States, which we extract as peculiarly applicable to our present subject ; and as deriving weight and interest from the splendid talents and long established fame of the eloquent orator. Mr. Webster eloquently describes Great Britain as " a power to which, for purposes of foreign conquest and subjugation, Rome, in the height of her glory, is not to be compared ; a power v.hich has dotted over the surface of the whole globe with her posses- sions and military posts, whose morning drum-beat, following the sun, and keeping company with the hours, circles the earth daily witli ^nie continuous and unbroken strain of the martial airs of England." And truly, when we look to our own country, what just cause of pri le and dignity do we behold ! The halcyon days of lu ace have long returned — the tem- ple of Janus is, we trust, for ever closed — yet, when the storm of war was at the highest, never did the eagle wing of Kn(;land soar more loftily, never did her star beam in brighter splendor ! Then, amid the ruin and the wreck of demoralized natiors, she stood forth the firm and generous pilot — when others slept, and were worn out with the/r woe, she ever watched at the giddy helm — her greatness grew with ii»-. ■^ '^•' 6^ r t. J. ^ (x; -v lation, wlio^r d in this chf ed at the ei- »— at once a igc of protec- uigh remote, UEBEc is one bed of those the following: lonounced by :he Senate of as [leculiarly I as deriving d talents and orator. Mr. Britain as eign conquest of her glory, ch has dotted h her posscs- g drum-beat, mv with the )ntinuousand of England." ountry, what diold ! The ed — the tem- — yet, when never did the ly, never did Then, amid 1 natiois, she -when others roe, she ever !ss grew with r« -I 'J. -i 71 the mac wings — her c she sti salvatio ;l-i^' t 'f Capi in whic in vein From t beautif it bears ing roc cumsta St. La works I to the richly i examir excelle nearly on wli windin f/lacis, where leads i into til sides ' along land a a mas Dalh the ol the IV officer WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 167 the madness of the gale — lier swiftness Lung on the wings of the storm — her proud pendants floated aloft — her course was steady — her track was secure ; and she still pointed to that beacon where peace and salvation showed their hallowed, but CApiring flame I Cape Diamond is composed of dark colored slate, in which are found perfectly limpid quartz crystals, in veins, along with crystallized carbonate of lime. From these crystals, which are certainly extremely beautiful, and sparkle like diamonds, came the name it bears. Professor Silliman considers the prevail- ing rock to be of transition formation, from the cir- cumstance of the region on the other side of the St. Lawrence being decidedly of that class. The works upon the summit are nearly complete, according to the most approved laws of fortification ; and will richly repay the visits of those who are admitted to examine them, both as to external beauty and interior excellence. The approach to the Citadel, which is nearly two hundred feet higher than the ground on which the Upper Town is situated, is by a winding road made through the acclivity of the fjfacisy from St. Lewis-Gate, and commanded every where by the guns of the different bastions. This leads into the outward ditch of the ravelin, and thence into the principal ditch of the work, built upon both sides with walls of solid masonry, and extending along the whole circumference of the Citadel on the land and city sides. The main entrance is through a massive gate of admirable construction, called Dalhousie-Gate, a view of which is given on the other page. Within the arch ot the gate are the Main-Guard rooms, for a detachment and an officer, who are relievtvl every day ; and in front of t: i m e- m ^ 158 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ;.■» it is a spacious area, — used as a parade ground, — or rather an enlargement of the ditch formed by the retiring angles and face of the bastion. This is a splendid work, presenting a most august appearance, and combining strength and symmetry with all the modern improvements in the art of fortification. It is named Dalhousie-Gate and Bastion, in honor of a distinguished nobleman and gallant officer, Lieutenant General the Earl of Daliiousie, G. C. B. ; who succeeded the Duke of Richmond, as Governor-in-Chief of these Provinces, in 1820. In the face of this bastion are loopholes for the fire of muscjuetry from within : on the top are embrasures for the cannon. The loopholes serve also for the admission of air and light into the casemated barracks within for the troops composing the garrison. They are commodious and well adapted both for comfort and safety, being well ventilated, and proof against fire and missiles of every description. These bar- racks are at present occupied by the Thirty-Second Regiment of the line, commanded by Lieutenant Colonel the Honorable John Maitland, third son of the Earl of Lauderdale. On the top of Daliiousie lUsTioN is an extensive covered way, or broad gravel walk, with embrasures for mounting cannon, com- manding every part of the ditch and glacis, and every avenue of approach to the citadel. From this ele- vated spot is obtained a delightful view of the surrounding scenery and the harbor—the whole fbrmin|r a panorania that has been pronounced by competent judges not inferior in beauty to the cele- brated Bay of Naples. An equally magnificent view is also commanded from the summit of the ca- valier, on which stands the telejftaph, at the eastern extremity of the Citadel ; as well as from the obser- r^ I n 7. <-'i-. ^ r*^ .^. r- ■ ■A 9 at-' §: ■^x fc \ mnd, — or d by the ?hh is a pearaiicc, th all the ition. It in honor t officer, lUSIE, G. MOND, as 820. In lie fire of Tibrasures io for the i barracks n. They >r comfort of against liese bar- :y-Second .icutenant ird son of ALIIOUSIE )ad oravel ;on, com- and every 1 this ele- w of the le whole unced by the celo- frnificont of the ca- e eastern he obser- . -J % n 75 Voking perpendicularly downwards on the river, stands a beautiful row of buildings with a paved terrace in front, built of cut stone, and contaifurvi^ the mess rooms and barracks for the officers of the garrison, their stables and spacious kitchens. The roof of this building is covered with bright tin, and from its ele- vated site, it is a beautiful and conspicuous object from Loretto and the road to Lake St. Charles. About midway between the officers* barracks anvl the observatory of Mr. Watt, is a building containing machinery worked by steam, by which large trucks holding masses of stone, cannon, stores, and all heavy weights, are easily drawn up by means of a railway on an inclined plane, from the wharf at the water's edge to the summit of Cape Diamond. There is also an artificial descent of near six hundred steps, which conducts the workmen safely in a few minutes from the garrison to the Lower Town. The inclined plane is al out five hundred feet long ; and is reserv- ed for the use of Government only, THE FORTIFICATIONS. Without presuming to give a technical description of this noble fortress, it may be said to combine every invention and precuation, that science and art could devise and execute for the protection of the city, and theseeurity of the garrison. * ® $ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 [f"- i I.I 2.5 1^1 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1 1.4 1 = ^ 6" - ► V] VQ 7: cr-l ^: 'V y /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i^ V"0 160 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, From the earliest times, Quebec may be said to have been a fortified town. The incursions of the Iroquois soon compelled the French to construct defensive fortifications at some distance from the Fort, which the nature of the ground permitted them to do, without any very great labor. The city is defended on every side, except the south-west, by its natural elevation and almost inaccessible crags, varying in height from fifty to three hundred feet above the water. All that was necessary, therefore, was to erect defensive works extending from Cape Diamond on the south, to the River St. Charles on the north, and facing towards the west. These, doubtless, supplied the original outline and design of every subsequent defence, and of the elaborate works and ramparts which now protect the city on that side. The first defences were very imperfect as fortifications, consisting, most probably, of palisades, with an embankment of earth. It has been shown that, in 1629, Champlain had no means of de- fen(;e against the English ; nor is it probable that the works extended beyond the site of the Fort. Afterwards, it was found necessary to enclose the the various charitable and monastic institutions with a rampart, in order to protect them against the sud- den inroads of the Iroquois : thus the city gradually improved in resources and in efficient means of de- fence, until Quebec was made the seat of the Royal Government in 1663. After the death of Champlain in 1635, his succes- sor, Montmagny, entirely rebuilt the Fort. He made a rampart towards the Place d'Armes of oak and cedar filled up with earth, and strong enough to allow him to mount cannon upon it Stone bastions were afterwards constructed, one at each angle front- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 161 be said to [)ns of the construct ; from the flitted them 'he city is th-west, by sible crags, indred feet r, therefore, from Cape Charles on St. These, and design he elaborate the city on imperfect as of palisades, been shown eans of de- )robable that >f the Fort. enclose the tutions with tnst the sud- ty gradually eans of de- if the Royal his succes- Fort. He rmes of oak ig enough to lone bastions angle front- ing the city, connected by a curtain. The Fort then, according to Colonel Bouchette, " covered about four acres of ground, and formed nearly a pa- rallelogram. Of these works only a few vestiges remain, except the eastern wall, wliich is kept in solid repair." It is stated by the same author, that the building, where the public entertainments are usually given, once constituted " part of the curtain that ran between the two exterior bastions of the old fortress of St. Lewis." At the period of the fruitless attack upon Quebec by Sir William Phipps, in 1690, the fortifications had assumed considerable military consequence. By the indefatigable activity of the Count de Frontenac, the city was defended by eleven stone redoubts, serving as bastions, and communicating with each other by means of curtains made of pickets, ten feet in height, strengthened within by embankments of earth. The following is Charlevoix's description of the works in the Upper Town at this time : " A battery of eight pieces of cannon was commenced upon the height on one side of the Fort. The fortifications began at the Intendant's Palace, on the shore of the Little River St. Charles, ascending towards the Upper Town which they inclosed, and terminated at the mountain, near Cape Diamond. They also continued from the Palace along the cliff, in the form of a palisade, as far as the fence of the Seminary, where it was ter- minated by inaccessible cliffs, called the Sault-au- Matelot, on which there was a battery of three pieces of cannon. A second palisade was also constructed above the other, finishing at the e^me place, and serving as a protection for the musqueteers. The entrances of the city, where there were no gates, were barricaded with heavy logs, and hogsheads filled with o 2 162 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, J: earth. Small pieces of ordnance were mounted upon them. In the course ot the siege a second battery- was made at the Sault-au-Matelot ; and a third at the gate leading to the River St. Charles. Cannon was besides mounted all round the Upper Town, and particularly on a wind-mill, which served as a cava- lier." In 1703, the Fortifications were restored by the Chevalier De Callieres, then Governor, who died immediately afterwards ; but it was not until 1720, that the city was fortified in a regular manner, with ramparts built of stone, and with bastions on the south-west front, according to the rules of art. Char- levoix, who was in Qijebec at this period, in des- cribing them as an eye-witness, refers to the plan sent to France by M. Chaussegros de Lery, the chief Engineer, to be deposited in the Louvre, with the plans of other fortified places. This plan was found so superior, that it was immediately adopted by the Court of France ; and the new works were commenced in June, 1720, under the direction of that eminent engineer. He was descended from a family of French noblesse, among whom they reckoned Jean de Lery, who accompaniedVillegagnon in his voyage to Brazil, under the patronage of Coligny, noticed in page seventy-two of this work. This gen- tleman was a Huguenot Clergyman, and acted as Chaplain to the expedition. He published an account of this voyage in 1585, dedicated to Coligny, which is to be found in the Library or the House of Assem- bly. The descendants of this family hold honorable stations in the Province to this day. On the occasion of taking down part of the French works on Cape Diamond, in 1795, for the purpose of rebuilding them, a leaden plate, with the following a, ■'i WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 16S 3untecl upon ond battery I third at the Cannon was Town, and d as a cava- tored by tbe )r, who died t until 1720, lanner, with tions on the sfart. Char- riod, in des- to the phm E Lery, the Louvre, with lis plan was Ltely adopted works were direction of nded from a hey reckoned ^agnon in his of Coligny, This gen- and acted as ed an account ligny, which se of Assem- ^Id honorable )f the French • the purpose the following inscription was found, commemorating the com- mencement of the new and i.nproved fortifications : Rejjnante Lndovico XV, Christianissimw (Tallorum Rejfe, iEtatis Sute annnra ajjente Xliira, Re^iii Vum : Aun^ustissimo ac Potentissimo Principe, Hiice Aurtiliaueiisiiim Philippo, Rpffis avunculo: Rejrnum Gubeniante. Iiltistr«issimo acserenissirao Principe, Ludovico Alexandro de Bourbon, Tohisae Comito, Concilio Maritirao Reifjue marilimse pra>posito. Iliustrissimo Joanne D'Estree, Franciie Marescallo, Americae Septentrionalis, Meridionalisque pro Re^e, Concilii Maritirai prieside, Ac maris prsefecti l.e of pre tims." Clc place I "i Artillery Bar- 'antre of build- ite being occu- l men of that id mess-room, parent comfort .ery agreeable used as maofa- finance depart- by the French li had formerly stories high, y six hundred Until lately were occupied nd forty thou- jriptions were osing manner, tadel, as their Barracks, and eircontiniia- alace-Gatf, right. This classical and Though per- it has a light ^n one of the rthern extre- street, called lat it led to ►rmerlj^ stood the gate, on yard. This WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 167 building was destroyed during the siege by the Ame- rica'.i troops unitor General Arnold, in 177.'). From PALACfci-GATE the fortificationr. are continu- ed along the brow of the cliff overlooking the mouth of the St. Charles, until they reach Hope-Gate, a distance of three hundred yards. A broad and level walk divides the outward wall from the possessions of the community of the Hotel Dieu. The wall near Hope-Gate and guard-house is loopholed for inus- quctry ; and all the approaches are commanded by the works, which here present a lofty and formidable appearance, projecting over the rugged cliff. On the St. Charles side, midway between it and the ^ate, a very picturesque view of the rock and the works may be obtained. At Hope-Gate commences the gradual elevation of the ground which terminates at the eastern point of Cape Diamond. Beyond the gate the wall is continued until it reaches a point opposite St. George Street, and the store house at the angle of the Seminary garden. Here it reaches the perpendicular cliff called the Sautt-au-Matclot, on jtart of which Ciiamplain commenced his first set- tlement, in 1608. From this eminence the Grand B-viTERYj-mounting a range of heavy guns, carrying balls of thirty- two pounds, commands the basin and the harbor below. In front of the Grand Battery . which extends to the Bishop's Palace, and where the escarpment of the cliff is nearly three hundred feet above the water, the stone parapet is but a few feet hiujh ; and the black artillery, as Professor Silliman observes, projecting over the cliff', " look like beasts of prey, crouching, and ready to leap upon their vic- tims." Close to the Bishop's Palace, long used as the place where the Sessions of the Provincial Legis- 168 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, LATURE are held, is Prescoti'-Gate and guard- house : the former built of stone, and presenting an appearance of massive strength. Under its arcli is tlie principal avenue to the Lower Town, by Mountain Street. It is protected on either side by powerful defences, and by works which con- nect it on the right with the Castle of St. Lewis. Here the stone rampart, or wall, forms part of that building, and is supported by counter-forts, or but- tresses, built upon the solid rock, and immediately overlooking the Lower-Town at an elevation of more than two hundred feet. To the right, or south- west side, of the Castle is the Governor's garden, one hundred and eighty yards long, and seventy broad, within which is a small battery, also command- ing part of the harbor. In front of the Governor's garden, the fortifications are continued for three hun- (Ired yards ; until they reach the foot of the glacis^ or acclivity towards Cape Diamond, crowned at that point by the round tower and flag-staflf. The extent of the ramparts towards the land side, from the south-west angle of the Citadel to the cliff above the River St. Charles, is stated by Colonel Bouchette to be eighteen hundred and thirty-seven yards. Within this rampart is the Esplanade, be- between St. Lewis and St. John's-Gate. It is a level space covered with grass, two hundred and seventy-three yards long, and of irregular breadth. Here are mounted the several guards on duty at the Citadel and other public buildings, each fore- noon, except Sunday, at eleven o'clock ; and occa- sional parades of the garrison take place, particularly on the King's birth i'ay. The muster of the City Militia is also annually held here. The circuit of the fortifications which enclose the Upper Town is til and guard- )reseiiting an der its arcli [I Town, by 1 either side which con- ? St. Lewis. tS part of that .forts, or but- [ immediately elevation of ght, or south- nor's garden, and seventy dso command- GovERN oil's for three hun- of the glacis^ bwned at that the land side, iel to the cliff d by Colonel thirty-seven PLANADE, be- ATE. It is a hundred and gular breadth. Is on duty at rrs, each fore- ik ; and occa- e, particularly ;er of the City ■"he circuit of PER Town is U"IT« HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 169 I two miles and three quarters : the total circumference outside the ditches and space reserved by government, on which no houses can be built on the west side, is about three miles. The average diameter is about fifteen hundred yards. Generally speaking, the city may be said to be entirely surrounded by a strong and lofty wall of hewn stone, constructed with elegance as well as with regard to durability. Its castellated appear- ance, owing to its ditches, embrasures, round towers, battlements and gates, add much to its grand and imposing effect from without. It has been stated that there are five gates, opening in different directions to the country, the Suburbs and the Lower Town. Two are in the rampart towards the south-west : name- ly, St. John's and St, Lewis-Gate, protected by out- works of great strength and powerful combination. Through the latter is the lOad leading to the spot ren- dered for ever memorab'.j by the death of Wolfe, to the Plains of / braham and the Race Course. This road is kept in repair by the military autho- rities, and is bordered by genteel houses and we'l stocked gardens. On the left of this road, on the brow of a slight ascent about half way to the race stand, is one of the four Martello Towers erected at different distances between the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles. Cannon are mounted on the sum- mit of these towers to sweep the undefended plain below ; and they are so constructed that, if taken by an enemy, they can be easily laid in ruins by the shot of the garrison, while on the opposite side facing the plains they are of immense thickness. Through St. John's-Gate is the populous suburb bearing that name ; and the road leading to the beautiful parish of St. Foy, li^ ed with agreeable residences and 170 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, Villas. Alon^ this road was the favorite drive of the Canadian helle, before the conquest, in 1759. Pa- lace-Gate and Hope-Gate both open to the River St. Charles and the Lower Town. The former leads also to the new market on the St. Charles, from which there is a fine view of the city and fortifications on that side. Prescott-Gate is the principal thorough- fare to the Lower Town ; and notwithstanding the steepness of the ascent, heavy burthens are conveyed up the hill with comparative ease by the hardy little horses of Norman breed, generally employed by the carters. Having thus made the circuit of the fortifications, it is necessary to notice the different barracks and military buildings for the accommodation of the troops composing the garrison. Besides those contained within the Citadel, and the Artillery barracks, the spacious building in the market-place, formerly the the College of the Jesuits, has long been occupied by the King's troops, under the name of the Jesuits Barracks. This edifice is of stone, three stories high, and measures two hundred and twenty-four feet by two hundred, being in shape a parallelogram. The piincij al entrance into the barracks is from the market-place, opposite to the French Cathedral, Through a lofty passage admittance is gained into a considerable area, the buildings around which are occu])ied by the soldiers. On the other side is an arch leading to the barrack yard and offices, 'lo the left of the great entrance is a large door open- ing into a hall. Here is the room set apart for the Garrison library, the property of the military, containing a number cf valuable books and msips. The barrack yard is enclosed by a wall two hundred yards long, in St. Ann Street, in which is the bar- > rive of the 759. Pa- tbe River rmer leads rom which ications on thoroiigb- anciiiij? the 3 conveyed hardy little yed by the rtifications, irracks and if the troops contained irracks, the jrmerly the ^'n occupied he Jesuits toriesbigh, ur feet by ram. Tlie from the Cathedral, ined into a which are side is an ffices. To door open- t apart for |ie military, and maps. ,vo hundred is the bar- Cios< WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 171 rack-gate and main-guard. This was formerly the garden belonging to the College. A little beyond the gate is the barrack office, a neat and substantial stone building standing nearly opposite to the Scottish Church. The Jesuits 13arracks are at present occu- pied as the qua^t^rs of that highly distinguished Re- giment, the 79th, or Cameron Highlanders. This is one of the few which wear the " garb of old Gaul ;" and makes a picturesque and highly military appear- ance in the field, very attractive to the numerous strangers who conclude their summer tour by a visit to the interesting capital of Lower Canada. The 79th Regiment is under the command of Lieutenant Colonel Duncan Macdougall. In the Place d* Amies, opposite to the Court House, is the Commissariat Office, where the business of that efficient department is conducted. Their ex- tensive stores are in the Lower Town, upon the King's Wharf; and are solely appropriated to the purposes of government. They are of stone, two hundred and fifty feet in length, with corresponding depth, and were erected in 18*2 L Opposite to the gate and entrance into the King's Wharf, is a guard house for its protection. In St. Lewis Street, about half way between the Commissariat Office and St. Lewis-Gate, is a stone building on the left, occupied as quarters for those officers of the garrison, who do not reside in the Citadel. In rear is the spacious mess-room of the officers of the 79th Highlanders. On the east, and in rear of the officers' quarters, at the end of a court or avenue leading out of St. Lewis Street, is the Mi- litary Hospital, a building of great length, and com- pletely provided with every necessary appointment. Close to it are the remains of an old military work, on 172 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, M an eminence nearer tbe Cape, called Mount Carmel. In the print of the ancient city, in La Potherie, Voyage de TAmerique, this height appears to have been surmounted by a windmill, which was fortified, and was probably one of the outworks on that side. On it stands at present a convenient cottage and garden, the property of government, and usually ap- propriated to the residence of the commanding En- gineer of the District. Opposite to the officers' quarters in St. Lewis Street are the military offices ; in a private house, rented by the Government for the purpose. Adjoin- ing to St. Lewis-Gate, and fronting to the Esplanade is the Royal Engineer Office; and in the rear are the spacious yard and work shops of the Royal Sap- pers and Miners, a detachment of which corps is always stationed in Quebec. The officers of the Royal Engineers have charge of the Fortifications, and of all military works. The Government labo- ratory, on the right hand of the road leading to the Citadel, opposite to the Royal Engineer yard, stands on the site of an old powder magazine, close to which the remains of General Montgomery were interred on the fourth day of January, 1776. We have already mentioned the extensive stores within the Citadel, as containing all the materiel of war for a numerous garrison. In addition to these, and to the stores at the Artillery Barracks, the Ordnance Department has a spacious building of stone, together with a powder magazine, in the bastion between St. John's-Gate and the Artillery Barracks. In various parts of the works, they have also large depots and magazines of cannon, gun pow- der, carriages, shot, and other munitions of war, for the convenience and supplyof the garrison. :Carmel. Potherie, rs to have s fortified, that side, ttage and isually ap- nding En- St. Lewis ate house, Adjoin- Esplanade tie rear are loyal Sap- :h corps is ers of the rtifications, Uent labo- ding to the rard, stands se to which ;re interred isive stores materiel of )n to these, Tracks, the building of le, in the Artillery they have , gun pow- of war, for on. ^Ji 7. p- '—. '!m 1?": r*': Mt ■J r ' .ii 1* It ha ci pally 1 to the n nally a and thei Allee. Wee transcri' professo tumn ol "Qu tainlv a taining com pad terial — walls an cannon- costume in langi whom t] and in i country the ocei yet disp fine cap crowdec winding — situat rope — e Europej the cold rent lar pulatiori populati of ever) WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 173 It has been seen that St, Lewis Street is prin- cipally the site of the offices and buildings belongings to the military departments. This street was origi- nally a military road from the Fort to the outworks, and thence into the forest ; and was called ha Grand Allee. We cannot conclude more appropriately than by transcribing an elegant peroration from the pen of professor Silliman, who visited this city in the au- tumn of 1819:— " Quebec, at least for an American city, is cer- tainly a very peculiar place. A military town — con- taining about twenty thousand inhabitants — most compactly and permanently built — stone its sole ma- terial — environed, as to its most important parts, by walls and gates — and defended by numerous heavy cannon — garrisoned by troops, having the arms, the costume, the music, the discipline of Europe — foreign in language, features and origin, from most of those whom they are sent to defend — founded upon a rock, and in its highest parts, overlooking a great extent of country — between three and four hundred miles from the ocean — in the midst of a great continent — and yet displaying fleets of foreign merchantmen in its fine capacious bay — and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea-port — its streets narrow — populous, and winding up and down almost mountainous declivities — situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Eu- rope — exhibiting in its environs, the beauty of an European capital — and yet, in winter, smarting with the cold of Siberia — governed by a people of diffe- rent language and habits from the mass of the po- pulation — opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the full «njoyment of every privilege, civil and religious : Such are the p 2 ik- 174 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, prominent features, which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec !" 'i he latter [)art of the above extract may be con- sidered a just tribute to the merit of Great Britain, from the pen of an accomplished and liberal minded foreigner, equally honorable to both. '■:i .: ) i'M WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 175 ) . CHAPTER THE TENTH. RELIGIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS — ANCIENT AND MODERN. The totally different policy observed by the Eng- lish and French Governments, as to the religious establishment of their Colonies in North America, although easily, assigned to the opposite motive of each, presents, at the present day, a very interesting contrast. The English Colonies, — founded by zeal- ous Dissenters, or by persons who conceived that all established forms of religion savoured of tyranny and oppression — soon received the most judicious encouragement from the Parent State, and obtained advantaofeous charters from the Crown. Thev en- tared with spirit into commercial enterprises, and made rapid advances to riches, prosperity, and power. The French, on the other hand, were established by men of a different stamp, attached to the forms of their ancient religion — who sought to enhance their own reputation, and to extend the glory and power of their country, by penetrating among the savage tribes — by converting them to their own faith — f y rigidly excluding what they considered the contami nation of calvinistic doctrines — and by sending among them Missionaries, in order to establish a religious dominion over them. Actuated by these powerful :J 176 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, incentives, tliey commenced by keeping p^ood faith with the sava-res, — they cultivated their friendship, and took part in their enmities as good and trusty allies. Thus tK soon acquired over the Indian mind an influence . .r more extensive than any other European nation. But the result of this conduct was not politically successful, as regarded the advance of the Colony. By far too great a portion of toil, of zeal, and of authority seems from the first to have been directed to the Indian tribes, if we may judge from the result of an amiable, though, perhaps, mis- taken policy. The subserviency of their colonial system, and even of commerce itself, to the propaga- tion of the religion of the state is apparent through- out the early history of this Colony, and hence its tardy progress under the French Government ; and its present inferiority, as to riches and population, to the English colonies planted about the same period. Whatever neglect, however, the temporal affairs of New France might have experienced, before it was taken under the protection of the Roj'^al Government in 1663 — it is clear that nothing had been left unat- tempted from the earliest times, to provide for the spiritual welfare of the settlers, and for the Instruc- tion of the neophytes among the savages. As et.rly as 1614, on the formation of a new and more exten- sive company of merchants trading to New France, Champlain had the devotion to introduce, and suf- ficient interest to obtain the passing of a clause in the articles, by which they engaged to defray the expenses of four ecclesiastics, who were to be sent out for the important object of spreading the true religion among the natives. The views of the pious founder of Quebec are thus explained : *' Seeing that we had no Priests, we obtained some through the interference WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 171 of the Sieur Houel, who had a peculiar aflFection to- wards this holy desiprn, and who told me that the Recollet Fathers would be proper for this purpose, both to reside in our habitation, and to convert the infidels, I agreed in this opinion, they bein^ void of ambition, and conforming altogether to the rule of St. Francis. I spoke of it to My Lord, the Prince, who entered into my views; and the company oifer- ed of their own accord to support them, until they could obtain a Seminary, which they hoped to do, by means of the charitable donations, that might be bestowed upon them for the care ami instruction of youth." Champlain accordingly sailed from Hon- fleur on the 24th April, 1615, with four Recollet Fathers ; and after a favorable passage, without meet- ing ice or any other impediment, they reached Tadoussac on the 25th May, where they returned thanks for their safe arrival. The first establishment of the religious commu- nities of Quebec, has a peculiar interest ; and it is difficult to determine which is more worthy of ad- miration, the liberality of the design on the part of the founders, or the devotedness and fearlessness display- ed by those appointed for its execution. The early history of Canada teems, indeed, with instances of the purest religious fortitude, zeal, and heroism — of young and delicate females, relinquishing the com- forts of civilisation to perform the most menial offices towards the sick — to dispense at once the blessings of medical aid to the body, and of religious instruction to the soul of the benighted and wondering savage. They must have been upheld by a strong sense of duty — an overpowering conviction of the utility of their purposes, — a full persuasion of their efficacy, both towards their owa eternal salvation, and that of 178 KEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ''!!; ' I .' ;: P their newly converted flock. But for such impres- sions, it would have been beyond human nature to make the sacrifices which the HopltaUeres made, in taking up their residence in New France. Without detracting from the calm and philosophic demeanor of religion at the present day, it is doubtful whether any pious persons could be found willing to undergo the fatigues, uncertainty and personal dauger, expe- rienced by the first missionaries of both sexes in New France. Regardless of climate, to whose horrors they were entirely unaccustomed — of penury and famine — of danger to the person — of death, and mar- tyrdom itself — they pressed onward to the goal to which their religious course was directed — and sus- tained by something more than human fortitude — by divine patience — they succeeded at length in esta- blishing on a firm foundation the altars, and the faith of their country and their God ! For ambition's sake, for lucre, for fame — men have braved danger in a hundred fights, until the world by common con- sent has elevated the successful tyrant to the rank m of a hero among his fellows — but to incur the horrors of savacre life, the risk of torture and even death — in a word, the agonizing suspense and constant anxieties of a missionary, for no other reward than that of self approbation, and with no other support than that of re- ligion — requires courage and devotion of a far higher order, and merits glory of the most enduring charac- ter. The labors and privations of the first religious communities, who established themselves even within the walls of Quebec, were many — their paths were dark, dreary and intricate ; but the bright star of enthusiasm, like the clew of Ariadne, carried them along — they felt that if one glimpse of the sacred light they bore could be brought to dawn upon the ben id zeal ^ gotten Ithj ventun were I^ Tliey " Missior D'Olbi seph is Champ in 161( of the 1 their hi station 1 year, tl llURONf; for the l^uplessi men, an some evi of escapi French there wc after ware Father P fluence t "ary int informed fliation of between unlucky WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 179 I impres- Duture to made, in Without [lemeanor I whether 3 undergo fer, ex pe- es in New ,e horrors nury and , and mar- ie goal to —and sus- itude — by h in esta- id the faith ambition's ed danger nmon con- the rank ithe horrors death—in t anxieties that of self that of re- far higher ng charac- t religious ven within )aths were ht star of Tied them the sacred upon the benighted souls of those tliey wislied to save, their zeal would be amply rewarded, and their labor for- gotten. THE hecollet church. It has been stated that the first ecclesiastics who ventured to the unknown regions of New France were Ilecollets, brought out by Champlain, in 1615. They were four in number, the Superior of the Mission, and Fathers Joseph Le Caron, Jean D'Olbeau, and Pacifique Duplessis. Father Jo- seph is stated by Charlevoix to have accompanied Champlain when he wintered in the Huron country, in 1616 ; and having acquired some knowledge of the language, he even at his first visit observed their haunts, and fixed in his own mind the proper station for evangelical missions. In the following year, tlie alliance between Champlain and the HuRONS would have been for ever interrupted, but for the skill and penetration of Father Pacifique Duplessis. The Hurons had murdered two French- men, and fearing the vengeance of Champlain, some evil disposed chief suggested a dreadful method of escaping it, by the extermination of the whole French settlement. To this treacherous proposal there were found but few listeners : one of whom, afterwards, in a fit of remorse revealed the plot to Father Pacifique. By dint of his persuasions and in- fluence they were induced to renounce their sangui- nary intention ; and Champlain, having been informed of the whole proceeding, accepted the me- fliation of the Recollet, and adopted a middle course between European and Indian ideas of justice. I'he unlucky affair was thus compromised : one of the H ■ I I III III ;. ! 180 ^EW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, Huron iniirdcrcrs was g^iven up by that people, aiul a valuable preseut of furs appeased the relations of the deceased — so that a crisis was safely passed, which niijrht have proved fatal to the existence of the infant colony. In 16*20, Champlain, arriviufr from France with three additional Hecollet Fathers, learned with great regret the death of the good Father Pacifique. It appears that the original habitatiun of these eccle- siastics was on the border of the liiver St. Charles, where they had a small lodge and JSeminary ahout lialf a league from the Fort, on the spot where the General Hospital now stands. It was comnienceii before the year 1620; and in 162'2 was defended by n small Fort against the incursioiis of a pa»'tj of Iroquois, who being unable to effect its capture, wreaked their vengeance upon the Hurons, several of whom they surprised and put to death. After the capture of Quebec by the Kertks In 16'29, the Rtjcollet Fathers returned to France. On its restoration to the French Crown in 163'2, the return of these ecclesiastics to Can aha was opposed by the Company, on the ground that being of the nuMi- dicant order, they were ill adapted to the wants of a new country. This policy prevailed until !(>(>}), when they obtained from the King of France an edict for their re-establishment. Father Cesahe'e Hi:k- veau, accompanied by two other Priests, and a lay brother, accordingly sailed for Quebkc o?i the ir)tli July in that year ; together with M. Talon, the Intendant, and a portion of live hundred fainilirs, whom the King was about to send «>ut as settlers. This vessel having been obliged to put into Lisboi), after three months boisterous weather, in retnrniiiyj to liochclle, perished in sight of that harbor, and WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 181 people, and B relations of )assed, which ; ot the infant France with C(i with great \^cifiquc. It ■ these ceclc- • St. Charles, ninary about i)t where the 9 commenced I defended by )f a p«»'*v «f t its capture, irons, several ith. he Kertks lii France. On in 1G32, the as opposed by of the men- »e wants of a until lG()t), Irance an edict saue'k Hi Il- ls, and a lav on the 15(11 Talon, the ired families, lut as settlers. into Lisbon, lin returninjr harbor, and every soul was lost. In May 1G70, Fatlier Ger- main Allard, Provincial of the Hecollets, embarked for Quebec with M. Talon, three other eccle- siastics, and a Deacon of the name of Brother Luke, famous for his skill in painting. Tliis voyage was prosperous, and the Provincial had the gra- tification of seeing his brethren once more j)hiced in possession of the ])roperty on the River St, Charles, which they had held before the capture of Quebec by the Kertks, in 1(>'21). He then returned to France. The IldcoUets having been thus re-established, rendered by their piety and example the greatest services to the colony, where they were greatly respected. They continued to reside on the River St. Charles until 1690; when Mouseigneur de St. Vallier, then Rishop of Que- bec, being desirous to establish a Cieneral Hospital, as an asylum for all the poor, and the house which was occupied by the Recollets at Notre Dame cks Anges, on the bank of the St. Charles, appearing every way convenient for that object, a negoeiation was entered into between the Bishop and the Fathers for the transfer of their property. The Recollets were desirous to approach nearer to the scene of their duties ; and the proposal of the Bishop having been made acceptable to them, they ceded their property on the St. Charles, and received a lot of land im me- diately op})osite to the T'ort of St. Lewis, between vSt. Anne, St. Lewis, and Garden Streets, when they soon afterwards erected their Church and Convent. La PoTiiERiE and Le Beau, the latter of wlunn resided with the Recollet blathers for a year, both speak of their Monastery and Church as handsome and convenient. Charlevoix gives the following o 182 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, description of it : " The Fathers Recollet have a large and beautiful Church, which might do them honor even at Versailles. It is very neatly wainscot- ed, and is adorned with a large tribune or gallery somewhat heavy, but the wamscoting of which is extremely well carved, and in which are included the confession seats. This is the work of one of their brother converts. In a word, nothing is wanting to render it complete, except the taking away some pic- tures very coarsely daubed ; Brother Luke has put up some of his hand which have no need of those foils. Their house is answerable to the Church ; it is large, solid and commodious, and adorned with a spacious and well cultivated garden." The ancient Church and Conventof the Recollets were destroyed by fire in 1 796, and on the site stands now the English Cathedral, of which we shall pre- sently make more particular mention. The following inscriptions were discovered ten years ago, on plates deposited in the corner stones of the former Recollet Church and Convent. The first was found on the 23d July, 1824, by some workmen employed in levelling the Place d'Armes^ on part of which those buildings stood : the second was discovered some time afterwards. . • D. O. 4 M. Anno Dni. 1693, 14 Jul. Quae Seraphici Bonaventuk^e festo solemnis Agebatur, Sedente Innocentio XII ® . suramo '.' Pontifioe, Rejfnante Renfe Christianissimo LuDovico, Maffno XIIII j Ad perpetuara Dei Gloriam, Virflfinis Deiparae honorem, Seraphici Patris Francisci laudem, I^ecnoD, Divi Antonij de Padua WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 183 '" ' Expressam invocationein : • niustrissiinus ac Reverendissimns Dnus. Dniis. Joannes De La Croix de Saint Vallier, Seciindiis Episcopus Quebecensis, Resedificandae novae ff 'urn mino : Recollectonini Ecclesise et Doraiis gratia : Joco Conventus antiqui nostrse Dorainse Angelorum. Eoruradem ff'ura, ab ipsomet eximia charitate et pietate in xenodochiiim rautuati et mutati, necnon, scquanimi pietate et gratitudiue, ab lisderaflF'bus libera cessi : Hunc hujusce Ecclesise et Conventus Sancti Antomj de Padua, primarium Lapidem admovit ; And on the reverse side the following : eidem ministrabat F. Hyacinthus Perrault, Comniissarius provMis totius Missionis Guardianus dicti contus, et novi iEdificij promotor indignus. TRANSLATED. . To God the best and most high, In the year of our Lord 1693, 14th July, On which was celebrated the festival of the Seraphic Bonaventure, During the Pontificate of Innocent XIl. Sovereign PontiflF, In the reign of the most Christian King Louis the Great XP''. To the perpetual glory of God, The honor of the Virgin Mother of God, In praise of the Seraphic Father Francis, And the express Invocation of St. Anthony of Padua : The Most Illustrious and Most Reverend Lord John de la Croix de Saint Vallier, Second Bishop of Quebec, In order to the rebuilding a new Church and mansion. For the minor-brothers Recollets, 184 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I' i lastead of the Ancient Convent of our Lady Of Angels belonging to the same Brothers, which he, with per- fect Charity and Piety acquired and converted into an asylum, and which the same Brothers with equal piety and gratitude freely surrendered, hath placed this, the First Stone of this Church and Convent of St. Anthony of Padua. On the reverse side. Assisted by Brother Hyacinthe Perrault, Provincial Commissioner of the whole mission, Guardian of the same Convent, And the undeserving forwarder of the newedifice. The second inscription was as follows :— \.h D. O. 4- M. Anno Domini 1693, 14 Julii, Seraphim sacra die, illustrissimus ac nobilissimus Dominus Dominus Joannes Bochart de Champigny Noray, rei judiciarise civilis necuon cerarii regii in tota nova Francia prwfectus, concessis a se fratribus minoribus Recoil : missionum Canadensium, pro insigni erga ipsos charitate, in vicinio suo, terra et fundo, eorura Eremitor : Nostrse Dominre de Portiunculo nuncupati, prope Quebecum.in memoriale perenne veteris eorum Conventus, tunc ?isui Pauperurc sacri, hujus primarii Lapidis eorura novae sancti Anton ij de Padua Ecclesiee et Conventus Quebecensis positione munificentiam et benevolum affectum consignavit. ,) TRANSLATION. To God the best and highest, In the year of our Lord, 1693^ 14th July, A day sacred to the Seraphim, The most illustrious and noble Lord i. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 185 John Bochart do Champi^ny Noray, Intendant of Justice of Police and of the Royal Treasury in all New France, — having' granted a lot and ground on his premises to the minor Brothers RecoUets of the Canadian Missions — through great charity towards them, hath, (by placing this first Stone of their new Church and Con ont of St. Anthony of Padua at Quebec,) recorded the munificence and benevolent Intent of those Anachoritos of our Lady called Portiunculam in perpetual memorial of their ancient Convent near Quebec, at that time sacred to the use of the Poor. THE JESUITS COLLEGE. In 16*24, Champlain, who had arrived in France from Quebec, found that the Duke de Montmorency had resigned the Viceroyalty of New France to his Nephew, Henry de Levy, Duke de Ventadour, a nobleman of great piety, who had retired from pub- lic affairs, and devoted himself solely to spiritual concerns. His object was to use the weight of his influence, and all the means which he possessed, in the conversion of the Indians ; and having continued the government of the country in the hands of Champlain, he does not appear to have further in- terested himself in its temporal prosperity. He was greatly attached to the Order of Jesuits, and deter- mined to employ them in the execution of his pious designs. Accordingly, three Jesuits, by name. Fa- thers Lallemant, Le Brebceuf, and Masse', and two Friars, Francois and Gilbert, embarked with De Caen, in 1625, and arrived safely in Quebec, where they founded the Jesuits' mission. They were men of extraordinary zeal and piety, eminently qua- lified for the undertaking, and were all afterwards Q 2 186 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ill) distinguished in the history of the country. Father Breboeuf, after many years residence among the savages, fell at last a victim, by an excruciating death, to the ferocity of the Iroquois, together with the Huron tribe with whom he resided. Champlain says of this worthy Priest, that he had a peculiar gift in acquiring languages, and that he had learned more of the Indian tongues in three years than others had done in twenty. On the arrival of these Jesuits in Quebec, they were hospitably received by the Recollets ; and were entertained for the space of two years at their house on the St. Charles, until they were able to establish themselves. On the 10th March, 1626, they obtain- ed a grant of the Seigniory of Notre Dame des Anges^ one league in front by four in depth, in which was situated the Recollet Church and Fort. On the 15th April, 1626, Champlain embarked for Quebec, and with him three other Jesuits, Fathers NoYROT, De La Noue, and a Friar. They arrived at Tadoussac on the 29th June, and at Quebec on the 5th July. In the vessel with the Jesuits, which was freighted by themselves, were twenty laborers, who were a great acquisition to the colony at that time. The permanent population then amounted to only fifty-five souls ; and the ecclesiatics were scat- tered throughout the different missions in the country parts. From what is stated by Champlain, it appears that the Jesuits, as well as the Recollets, resided on the little River St. Charles, in their lately acquired seigniory. They afterwards, however, removed into the city, still keeping their pastures and garden on the St. Charles, called La Vacherie, Champ- lain says, in 1629 : " As to the Reverend Jesuit WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 187 Fathers, they have only sufficient land cleared and in crop for themselves, and their servants to the num- ber of twelve The Recollet Fathers have much more land cleared and in crop, and were only four in number," The latter had however only between four and five acres in cultivation. After the capture of Quebec in 1629, Louis Kertk visited the habitation of the Jesuits, and ac- cepted three or four pictures which they offered him. The English Chaplain also took some books which he asked from the Priests. After having examined the residence and clearance of the Jesuits, Kertk proceeded to visit the Recollets, from whom it does not appear that he received any thing, probably on account of their well known poverty and self denial. Their pictures, however, were at that day famous, owing to the skill of one of their order, Brother Luke. It must not be concluded from this, that either the Priests, or the French inhabitants, gene- rally, were ill-treated on this occasion. Champlain expressly says : " On recevoit toute sorte de cour- toisie des Anglois." The only complaints he made were against the conduct of a French renegado in the English service, who did every thing in his power to annoy his former friends and countrymen. The Jesuits, as well as the other ecclesiastics, re- turned to France in the autumn of 1629. On their embarkation, however, at Tadoussac, we regret to state that they were deprived of their silver chalices by order of Sir David Kertk, who imagined he was performing a meritorious service, instead of laying himself open to the accusation of avarice and un- licensed plunder, unworthy of the doctrines he professed, and the country whose commission he bore. f:-\ «6il 188 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, M i.i: The following curious scene occurred at Tadoiis- sac, before the embarkation of the Jesuits. One of the parties was the celebrated De Brebceuf, whose miserable death we have before alluded to — the other was Captain Jacques Michel, a French Calvinist, who held a command under Kertk, and was reputed a brave and experienced officer. " General Kertk, speaking to the Jesuit Fathers, observed, * Gentlemen, you had certainly some bu- siness in Canada, if it was o Jy to enjoy what belong- ed to M. De Caen, of which you have dispossessed him.* * Pardon me, Sir,* replied the Father, ' it was only the pure intention of promoting the glory of God which brought us here, exposing ourselves to all dangers and perils for that object, and the con- version of the savages of this country.' Michel interrupting him, said : * Aye, aye, — convert the savages ! rather to convert the beavers !* Upon which the Father promptly, and without reflection, replied, * that is false.* The other lifted up his hand saying, ' but for the respect due to the General, I would strike you, for giving me the lie.* The Father rejoined : ' you must excuse me, I did not intend to give you the lie. I should be very sorry to do so, the term I used is one in use in the schools, when a doubtful question is proposed, not considering it any offence. Therefore I ask you to pardon me, and to believe, that I did not say it with any inten- tion of offending you.' " When Champlain resumed the Government of New France, in 1633, after the treaty of St. Ger- main-en-Laye, he was accompanied by Fathers De Breboeuf, and Masse. Fathers Le Jeune and De Nolie had embarked for Quebec the year previous. Father Noyrot had perished by shipwreck in 1629. J* WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 189 The number of officiating priests in Quebec, in 1636, was fifteen, with four lay brethern, employed in the education of youth. Charlevoix represents their Indian allies as highly gratified at the return of the French ; and gives an amusing description of the impression made upon them by the different manners of the English, during their occupation of Quebec, from 1629 to 1633. The savages were much disconcerted when they found the new comers by no means disposed to allow them the same liberties, which the French had permitted with the greatest good-humor. This was bad enough, but matters soon became worse. The Indians had been accustomed to enter the houses of their French friends and protectors, with the greatest freedom and absence of ceremony. To the French, who adapted themselves with great facility to any line of conduct which was likely to conciliate, it was easy to permit this familiarity. But it was widely dif- ferent with the English. They by no means tolerated the intrusion of the Indian, whose habits and feelings they little understood ; and at last became so much annoyed with it, as to chase the astonished savage, and expel him from the threshold, as Charlevoix ex- presses himself, a coups de batons. The consequence was, that although the Indians continued to trade with the English in furs, they, generally speaking, absented themselves from Quebec during the stay of Kertk ; and when the French returned, welcomed their re-appearance with every sign of sincerity and congratulation. The Jesuits adroitly took advantage of this feel- ing and began to establish distant missions. Fathers De Breboeuf, Daniel, and Davost went to reside in the Huron country : not, however, without op- ^m 11 8,1 190 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I position on the part of some of the chiefs. After spme years they made several proselytes among the HunoNs, and even many of the chiefs came and de- manded the rite of baptism. ' The colony was now encreasing every year in population and resources ; and it began to be con- sidered, that nothing could tend more favorably to the reformation of morals and the diffusion of religion, than a College for the instruction of youth. In 1625, on the first cdming of the Jesuits to New France, the idea of forming such an establishment captivated the imagination of Rene Rohault, eld- est son of the Marquis de Gamache, who had become a member of the Society of Jesus. His rela- tions enabled him to offer six thousand crowns of gold to the General of the Order, in order to effect the foundation of a College in Quebec. The donation was graciously accepted ; but the capture of the place by the English necessarily delayed the perfor- mance of the condition. After the restoration, it was uetermined to prosecute the original design. The foundation of the Jesuits' College was ac- cordingly laid with great ceremony, in December, 1635. The site was the same as that which the buildings now occupy, on the other side of the square in which the French Cathedral and Seminary were afterwards built. Their Church, however, stood upon that part of Garden Street, which has since acquired the name of the Hay market. On the removal of the Church, the street was widened to its present breadth. Behind the College and Church, were the extensive grounds and garden belonging to the order. In 1639, the Jesuits' Church served as the Paroisse of Quebec : it is described as being then a handsome building of wood, with an arched roof and gallery, WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 191 jiiiefs. After ;es among the came and de- ; < very year in ;an to be con- 2 favorably to on of religion, )f youth. In suits to New establishment OHAULT, eld- ae, who had js. His rela- srowns of gold to effect the riie donation ipture of the ed the perfor- estoration, it al design. and sucli appropriate decorations as gave it all the appearance of a Church. In 1640, on the I4th June, the College and Church of the Jesuits was entirely destroyed by fire; and the Fathers were accommodated by the Hospitalieres of the Hotel Dieu with the loan of their own house. The Chapel of the Hotel Dieu then became the Paroisse of Quebec ; and the Hospitalieres went to reside at a house in the neighborhood. The establishment of the Jesuits' at Syllery was commenced in 1637, under the auspices of their Superior, Father Le Jeune. The funds were sup- plied by the generosity of the Commandeur de Sylleri, who sent out workmen from France for the express purpose. The site was chosen by Father Le Jeune, about four miles above Quebec on the north shore, and still retains the name of the founder. Here were established several Indian families who had become Christians — and the intention was by their proximity to Quebec, to preserve them from the attacks of the Iroquois — and from the danger of famine, by instructing them to cultivate their own lands. The Hospitalieres, who arrived from France in 1639, assisted the Jesuits in the good work ; and during four years took up their residence at Syllery, where they tended the sick under circumstances of great privation, self denial, and fortitude. It was also to the representations of the Jesuits that the subsequent establishment of the Hotel Dieu and of the Ursuline Convent were owing : — the for- mer for the attendance of the sick, and the latter for the instruction of female children — both objects of the greatest importance to the welfare of a new co- lony. •f i ;i|ji I 'II ' I! 'ill i| iHi i.( ^1 192 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, The following is the account given by La Po- therie of the old College and Church of the Je- suits : — it must be observed that the present build- ings were erected subsequently to the visit of Charlevoix in 1720 : — " The College was founded by Father Gamache, who made a donation thereto of twenty thousand crowns. The Church is very handsome. The ceiling is in compartments of squares, filled with various figures and symmetrical ornaments. The garden is large, having a small wood of lofty trees, where there is a very pretty walk." Charle- voix gives a less favorable description : '* The College in some sort disfigures the city, and threatens falling to ruin every day. Its situation is far from being advantageous, it being deprived of the greatest beauty it could possibly have had, which is that of the prospect. It had at first a distant view of the road, and its founders were simple enough to imagine they would always be allowed to enjoy it ; but they were deceived. The Cathedral and Seminary now hide the view, leaving them only the p/ospect of tlie square, which is far from being a sufficient compen- sation for what they lost. The court of this College is little and ill-kept, and resembles more than any thing else a farmer's yard. The garden is large and well kept, being terminated by a small wood, the remains of the ancient forest which formerly covered this whole mountain. The Church has nothing worth notice on the outside except a handsome stee- ple ; it is entirely roofed with slate, and is the only one in all Canada which has this advantage : all the buildings here being generally covered with shingles. It is very much ornamented on the inside : the gal- lery is bold, light and well wrought, and is surround- ed with an iron balustrade, painted and gilt, and of WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 193 excellent workmanship : the pulpit is all gilt, and the work both in iron and wood excellent : there are three altars handsomely designed, some good pic- tures, and it is without any dome or cupola, but a flat ceiling handsomely ornamented. It has no stone pavement, in place of which it is floored with strong planks, which makes this church supportable in win- ter, whilst you arc pierced with cold in the others." The Jesuits* College was afterwards rebuilt in its present form, and must have been considered at the time a noble edifice. From this seat of piety and learning issued those dauntless Missionaries, who made the Gospel known over a space of six hundred leagues, and preached the Christian faith from the St. Lawrence to the Mississippi. In this pious work many suifered death in the most cruel form : all un- derwent danger and privation for a series of years, with a constancy and patience that must always com- mand the wonder of the historian, and the admiration of posterity. The property which the Jesuits acquired by pur- chase, by grants from the King, and by donations from individuals, was very considerable. In the year 1764, the order was abolished by the King of France, and the Members of the Society became private in- dividuals. The last Jesuit, Father Casot, died in 1800, when the property of the Order fell to His Majesty, in whom it is still vested. It has been stated that the Church originally stood in the Haymarket, opposite to Garden Street. The College has been long appropriated by the Imperial Government as a barrack for a Regiment of Infantry, which has always been quartered in the city. Until a few years ago, the last surviving trees of the forest were to be seen in the angle in the rear of the barrack R Ill li J »lj lllil B! 194 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, office. They have since perished, or have been re- moved ; and the spacious barrack yard now occupies the site where the Jesuits once rejoiced in their umbrageous walks, and were wont, like the Philoso- phers of old — —— inter sylvas academi quter ere verura. THE HOTEL DIEU, We have already mentioned the dangers and pri- vations endured not only by the Missionaries, who were conducted by religious fervor into the recesses of the forest, far from the habitations of civilised man — but by young and delicate females, sprung from ancient and respectable families, who flocked to New France as to a glorious field of Christian exertion. Of these none were more conspicuous than the HospiTALiEREs, or religious ladies forming the community of the Hotel Dieu. One of the first objects of the Colony of Cham- plain after its restoration to the French, in 1683, was the foundation of an Hotel Dieu in Quebec. Europeans, who came to establish themselves in a rude and untried climate, after a navigation in those days both long and perilous, were subject to frequent and distressing maladies, particularly during the win- ter ; against the rigors of which they were unprovided both as to clothing and diet. To alleviate the evils which arose from the general want of those comforts which are peculiar to a state of advanced civilisation, they had no other resource than in public and cha- ritable foundations. Nor was such an establishment as the Hotel Dieu less neces&ary in regard to the Indians. In addition to the absence of medical care WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 195 amongf themselves — their ignorance of the more for- midable diseases, and their natural dislike to witness, much less long to tolerate, even their nearest con- nexions in a state of feebleness and sickness — ren- dered them insensible, while in their savage state, to the delicacy of medical attendance, and incapable of providing other than temporary remedies for sick- ness or accident. To the Nuns Hospitalieres the savages, who were overcome by sickness, in the neighborhood of Quebec, owed the cure of their bodies, and their soul's health — zeal and charity combined to render such proselytes dear — and Chris- tianity must have appeared to the converted Indians in its most attractive and endearing aspect — not only insuring happiness in a future state, but presenting immediate consolation and relief from the bitterness of their personal maladies. The colony being as yet too poor to undertake this necessary establishment, through the represen- tations of the Jesuits, the subject came to be discuss- ed, and soon to be popular among the rich and powerful of the mother country. In 1636, the Duchess D'AiGUiLLON, niece to the famous Car- dinal De Richelieu, resolved to found an Hotel DiEU in Quebec, at her own expense. She was, however, liberally assisted by her relative ; and during their joiat lives, they continued to testify their kindness and affection towards the foundation. By contract passed on the 1 6th April, 1637, they gave an annual rent of fifteen hundred livres, on a capital of twenty thousand, as a commencement of their laudable and benevolent design : on condition *' that the Hospital should be dedicated to the death and precious blood of the Son of God, shed for the mercy of all mankind ;" and that masses should be !! :l I W.i fM 196 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, \ I said forever for the repose of the souls of the founders. This donation was afterwards doubled in amount — but the revenues appear never to have been equal to the expenses incurred ; and of late years the pecuniary aid of the Legislature has been frequently bestowed upon this deserving" community. In the execution of the foundation, the Duchess D'AiGuiLLON obtained from the Company of mer- chants a considerable concession of waste lands, which they called Ste. Marie ; and a grant of a piece of ground within the precincts of the city, being the site now occupied by the Hotel Dieu, its buildings and spacious garden, covering altogether about twelve acres. The Duchess had proposed to the Hospitaliires of Dieppe to take charge of the new foundation at Quebec. These Nuns joyfully accepted the offer; and three of their community eagerly prepared them- selves for a voyage across the Atlantic, in discharge of what they considered a religious duty. The eldest was chosen superior ; her age was twenty-nine — the youngest was on!y twenty-two years old. The fleet for New France at that time had its rendezvous at Dieppe ; where, amidst the encourage- ment and congratulation of all classes interested in the design, they embarked on the 4th May, 1639, accompanied by other vessels, having on board Madame De La Peltrie, and three Ursuline Nuns, destined for a new Convent at Quebec — several Je- suits, and other Priests for the different missions. After a rough passage, and some danger from the ice, they arrived safe at Tadoussac on the 15th July. Here they remained some days, subjected to much inconvenience, until they found a small vessel to take them up the river to Quebec On the 31st ll't- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 197 pnt missions. July, they approached the harbor, but the tide being against them, it was resolved to land upon the Isle of Orleans, then uninhabited. They passed the night in wigwams constructed for the purpose, one for the Nuns, another for the Priests, and a third for s the crew. The next morning they prepared to de- part, having first ordered the muskets to be dis- charged, and fires to be made in the woods, in token of their joy and gratitude for their safe arrival in the land of promise — the scene of their Christian labors. These fires being observed from Quebec, the Che- valier de Montmagny, who had succeeded Cham- plain in the Government, sent forward a canoe, which soon returned with the gratifying intelligence of the arrival of the Nuns. The first of August, the day on which these ladies arrived, so long and so ardently desired, was thought worthy of being cele • brated as a Fete. The shops were closed, and all labor suspended. The troops were under arms, and the Governor at their head received the religious heroines on the river side, under a salute from the Fort. On landing, they reverentially kissed the chosen ground ; and after the first compliments, were led by the Governor, amid the acclamations of the people, to the Jesuits* Church, then the Paroisse, where Te cleum was sung, and High Mass performed, in thanksgiving for their safe arrival. Notwithstanding the joyful reception which these Nuns met with, such was then the poverty of Que- bec, that they for some ♦^imc suffered the greatest privations, even to the want of necessary food and clothing, until they were permanently established in the Hotel Dieu, which did not arrive for many years afterwards. They were at first lodged, as has been stated elsewhere, in a small house belonging to the R 2 198 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, iiij !:ii 1 1. * in Company, where their only furniture was a table and two benches. They were even indebted to the Go- vernor for their first meal in New France ; and as their baggage was still on board their vessel at Tadoussac, they were obliged to sleep on branches of trees, laid upon the floor, until the 15th August, when they received their furniture and effects. After taking lessons in the Algonquin tongue from Father Le Jeune, they commenced their labors by receiving several sick persons, whom they tended with great care, as well Indians as French. The small pox broke out among the former with great virulence, and the nature of their employment would have been intolerable to delicate femalesj had they not been supported throughout by a powerful sense of religious duty. In 1640, they gave up their house in Quebec to the use of the Jesuits, whose residence had been destroyed by fire ; and retired to St. Michel, which had been lent to them by Monsieur de Puiseaux. As the site of their grant in the city, on which the Hotel Dieu now stands, appeared to them, ia the infancy of their pecuniary means, every way incon- venient from its rocky and uneven nature, and the deficiency of water, which could only then be obtain- ed by descending the steep cliff to the River St. Charles — they determined to suspend the buildings which had been commenced upon it, and to erect a stone house at Sillery, in the neighborhood of the establishment of the Jesuits there. They were induced to do this the rather, as the Indians greatly preferred a residence there to Quebec ; although not long afterwards, the incursions of the Iroquois rendered Sillery a much less secure position. The Hospitaliires of Quebec, having been joined in 1640 ill. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 199 by two additional Nuns from the community of Dieppe, makings in all five, laid the first stone of their buildings at Sillery, on the 9th July, with great ce- remony ; but continued to reside at St. Michel until it was habitable in 1641. Their condition on taking possession of this house, which was in an unfinished state, was uncomfortable in the extreme. They were more than a league from Quebec, living among savages, with no other French protectors than the Missionaries. Here they passed the first winter in great distress, still, however, continuing their atten- tion to the savages, converting aiui healing them. They resided at Sillery foui* years, after which, owing to the frequent incursions of the Iroquois, they were obliged to return to Quebec, — where they resid- ed in a small house on the river side, lent to them by the Governor — and resumed their building on the present site of the Hospital. They were at this time seven in number. As soon as a portion of this first building, which stood upon the site of the present Hotel Dieu, was covered . in, the HospiCalieres took possession ; and personally aided the workmen in completing it by their manual labor. I'heir Chapel was consecrated on the 16th March, 1646, an occasion of great joy to the little community, which consisted at this time of only five professed Nuns, a Chaplain, four boarders, a female domestic, and seven laboring men. During this year, they successively administered relief to forty-six natives of France, and one hundred and twenty savages, some of whom remained five and six months in the Hospital. They had moreover under their constant protection a wigwam of ten savages, whom they maintained all the year round. I' J 200 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, ! il It appears by a bargain made by these Nuns for the clearance of the ground about the Hotel Dieu, that one hundred and fifty livres per arpent, equal to six pounds five shillings, Halifax currency, was the common price at this time for the performance of such work. At this period they had acquired, partly by pur- chase and partly by concession, the farm of St. Sauveur ; having sold their lands at Sillery to M. D*Auteuil. They also received a gift of the Fief St. Igna<»e, half a league in front by six in depth, from M. Giffard, Seignior of Beauport, as a dowry for his daughter, who took the veil in 1648. The dread of the Iroquois, however, prevented the settlement of this Seigniory until the year 166-2. Three Nuns having arrived from France in 1648, the number of these devoted ladies was encreased to nine. About this time a number of families came out from France to settle in Quebec ; and to these the kindness and attention of the Hospitalieres were found of signal benefit immediately after their arrival. In 1649, after the utter destruction by the Iroquois of two Huron Villages, called St. Joseph and St. Ignace, and the cruel death of Father de Breboeuf and Gabriel Lallemant, the Missionaries, the unfor- tunate Hurons — broken hearted, and utterly unable to bear up against the incessant attacks of their hereditary enemies — or rather, the sad remains of that once powerful and interesting people, took re- fuge near Quebec, where they were kindly received and hospitably treated by the Hospitalieres and the Jesuits. The descendants of these Huron refugees are now to be found in the village of Indian Lorette presenting a striking and melancholy contrast with WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 201 their former power and condition, when they stepped as lords of the soil over the magnificent country which borders the waters of Lake Huron. Relative to the massacre of St, Joseph and St. Ignace, there is a picture at present in the Chaplain's room of the Hotel Dieu, which derives its interest from its sub- ject, the dreadful death of the Missionaries, and the torture to which they were exposed by the refined cruelty of the Iroquois. The first Hospital, being built of wood, and only fourteen feet wide, was soon found too limited for the accommodation of the numerous applicants. By great exertions, and by the donations of generous individu- als both in the colony and in France, the Hospita^ Hires were enabled to build another, more commodious in dimension, and far more solid in construction. The first stone was laid on the 15th October, 1654, by M. De Lauzon, the Governor, in presence of the Clergy and principal iidiabitants. The new buildings which consisted of an Hospital, now the temale ward, a choir, and a Church were finished in 1658, and the latter was consecrated by the Abbe de Quelus, Grand Vicaire, on the 10th August. Mass was first celebrated on the 15th of the same month. The weakness of the Colony, and the defenceless state of Quebec in 1660, may be imagined from the fact, that such was the dread inspired by the Iroquois, who hovered around to the number of seven hundred warriors, that it was not considered safe for the Hospitaliires and the Ursulines to remain in their respective convents during the night. They accord- ingly removed every evening to the Jesuits' College, where apartments were assigned to them. Patroles were established at night to protect the city, which, 202 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, but for these precautions, would assuredly have been fired by their daring and implacable assailants. This state of alarm continued for three weeks ; when the ip^nante Iroquois made a simultaneous attack on all the (IV, ben{ posts between Three-Rivers and Quebec, killing no less than eighty French, and a great number of Algonquins and Hurons. They established them selves in the Isle of Orleans, whence M. De Lauzon, son of the former Governor of that name, lost his own valuable life, and the lives of his fol- lowers, in vainly attempting to dislodge them. Sa- tisfied with their triumph, they at length retired, leaving Quebec once more to repose ; and restoring the Nuns to their accustomed charitable duties. In 1672, the Colony had acquired sufficient strength to ensure its security from the Iroquois ; and as many settlers came out each spring, the wants of an encreasing population rendered the augmentation of the Hotel Dieu again necessary ; and under the liberal patronage of M. Talon, the Intendant, wLo may be called the Pericles of Quebec, another ward and an additional wing were undertaken, the first stone of which was laid on the 5th May, 1672, in the presence of the Bishop, and other dignitaries. On the 20th of the same month, the Intendant, in order to show the respect he entertained for the Duchess D'Aiguillon, the original founder of the Hotel Dieu, caused a brass plate to be inserted into the foundation stone, bearing the arms of that illustrious lady, and the following Latin inscription, written by his Nephew, who is spoken of as a young man of much promise at the time : — it'precantj vitate, cc iua in pai rissirao oliticaj uadarat uflfct Hos Eminentisl eptis A\gi loria sem To the 1 the Mothe reign of t Louis XI the Caaa( Superior < whole colo the poor Talon, I France — t founded, < second 111 D'Aiguill Cardinal glory. Ii In 16 building quent ii appeara The building Gate a WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 203 EfFUSO CiIRISTI 8ANGUINI ET MI8ERIC0RDLE MaTRI, SEDENTB Clemente X. esfnante invicto, pacifico Rege Christianissimo, Lcdovico IV, benedicente Francisco, primo Canadensium Episcopo, t'precante Virgfinum Hospi talari um, preside Kenata a Na- iritate, complaudente Colonia universa : nee non pro singnlari ua in pauperes et segros incolas chariiate, procurante illus- rissirao Viro D. D. Joanne Talon, iErariae, Juri, ac toti oliticaj Rei, Nova? Gallijc suramo Pnefecto. Quod olim pi6 undarat Nosocomium,angesc;ente Colonia, hoc novo liberaliter uo^et Hospitio, imraortaiis mcmoriie et omni laudiim gcnere Eminentissitni Diicis Cardinalis Armandi superstes, et sorore eptis dignissiraa, Maria h Vigenerot Ducissa, cui 8alus et loria sempiterna. Anno salutis instauratse M.D.CLXXII. r . translated. To the honor of the blood of Christ, shed for mankind, and Ithe Mother of Mercy, in the Pontificate of Clement X. in the reicrn of the invincible, peaceful and most Christian King- Louis XIV. with the benediction of Francis, first Bishop of the Canadians, and at the request of Rene de la Nativite, Superior of the Nuns HospitaliereSf with the applause of the I whole colony, also as a mark of his peculiar affection towards I the poor and the sick, and by the instrumentality of Jean Talon, [ntendant of Justice, Police and Finance in New France — the same Hospital which she had originally so piously founded, on the encrease of the Colony, was augmented by a second liberal donation, by Maria de Vignerot, Duchess D'Aiguillon, surviving niece of the immortal and most eminent Cardinal Duke Armand, to whom be health and everlastiog* glory. In the year of salvation MDCLXXII. In 1696 considerable additions were made to the buildings of the Hotel Dieu, which, with subse- quent improvements gradually assumed their present appearance. The present edifice is a substantial and capacious building, three stories high, standing between Palace- Gate and Hope-Gate. Its longest portion is one Hi ^ri -I: 204 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, hundred and thirty yards, by seventeen in depth. On the north-west side, the wing is only fifty yards lonjT, and two stories high. Every medical care and delicate attendance is here gratuitously aiforded to the afflicted poor by the religious community, which consists of a Superior, about thirty three Nuns, two Novices and a postulant. The Church is simple and plain, having a few paintings which may De seen on proper application being made to the Chaplain. Several are also distributed throusfhout the various rooms and wards. Three or four pictures are stated to be originals, and are by eminent masters : as The Natlvify, by Stella, a French painter who died in 1661 : — The Virgin and Child, by Coypei, who died in 1707, and St, Bruno, by the celebrated EustacLe Le Sueur, who died in 1655. He was called the Raphael of France, and his principal work was the life of St. Bruno, in a series of twenty-two pictures, preserved in the Chartreux, at Paris. THE URSULINE CONVENT, This Institution,*as well as that of the Hotel Dieu, owes its origin to the powerful representations of the Jesuits settled in New France. The object of the latter was not, however, merely to provide the means of religious instruction and education for the female children of the French residents. They contem- plated the instruction also of the young daughters of the converted Indian — so extensive and philanthro- pic were the views of this order. The Company of merchants to whose direction the temporal affairs of the Colony were confided, — men of worldly views, and more anxious for a good return of furs, than solicitous of extending to the savage benefits, which WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 205 seemed to them unnecessary and premature — took no steps to promote the settlement of the Ursulines. In justice it should be added, neither did they take measures to prevent it. Several unsuccessful attempts were made to carry into effect a foundation so desirable as that of the Ursulines, whose peculiar province it was to devote themselves to the education of female children. At length, as in the case of the Hospitalieres, it was re- served for a young widow of Alen^on, a person of rank and fortune, named MaJame De la Peltrie, to surmount every obstacle ; and to accomplish her purpose by devoting her whole fortune, and conse- crating even personal labor to the good work. With two Ursulines from Tours, and one from Dieppe, she attended the rendezvous of the Canada fleet ; and sailed on the 4th May, 1639, for Quebec, in company with the Hospitalidres, as mentioned above. The courage and devotion of Madame De La Peltrie have been highly celebrated. Persons of similar qualities have appeared in almost every age to meet the wants of society — without whose energy and self denial few of those philanthropic institu- tions, to which the world owes so much at the present day, would have been matured, and successfully established. This devout lady give up all to carry into effect her laudable design ; and is even said to have at one time worked with her own hands in the cultivation of the ground, on which the Ursuline Convent now stands. She divested herself of all superfluous clothing, aad parted with her wardrobe to supply raiment to the poor children of the colo- nists, whom she fed as well as clothed : her whole life indeed was a series of charitable deeds, which have rendered her name illustrious in the religious s * . ■ 206 NEW riCTURE OF QUEBEC, ! I annals of Canada. The fruits of her valuable foun- dation are to this day experienced, in the excellent education which is ail'orded to young females in the school of the Ursuline Convent. The reception of the Ursulines has been already described under the Hotel Dieu. The Hospita- litres went immediately to Sillery — the Ursulines were established in a small house on the river side, most probably on the St. Charles. Like the Hos- pitalieres they suffered trials and privations innume- rable. Scarcely had they arrived, when the small pox broke out in Quebec. But they were not dis- concerted : they indeed preserved their health, and had presence of mind enough, in the midst of death, to employ themselves in the study of the Indian languages, in order to render themselves more use- ful to the community among which they had begun their pious career. It has been stated that their Srst intention was to educate the female children of the Indians. Finding this to be inconvenient, and almost impracticable, tliey were, after some years, reluc- tantly compelled to abandon that part of their de- sign. The Ursulines completed their first Convent in 1641. It was built most probably of wood ; and stood within the present possessions of the Commu- nity, between St. Lewis, Garden, St. Anne, and St. Ursule Streets. A very curious pictorial plan, or map, of the original Convent is still in existence. In this, St. Lewis Street appears merely a broad road between the original forest trees, and is called La Grande Ailee — without a building immediately on either side. At a little distance to the north oi La Grande Alice, is a narrower path, called Le Petit Chemin, running parallel and leading into the forest. aluable foun- the excellent emales in the been already Ihe Hospita- the Ursulines le river side, ike the Hos- tions innume- tien the small were not dis- ir health, and nidst of death, of the Indian ves more use- ey had begun that their first lildren of the nt, and almost years, roluc- t of their de- st Convent in ■ wood ; and the Commii- Anne, and St. orial plan, or in existence. y a broad road i is called La imediately on e north of Lo- lied Le Petit nto the forest. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECiFONS. 207 This smaller path went exactly through the choir of the present Chapel ; the great door of which is be- tween the two roads, but close to the narrower one, as described in the map. A small brook ran, appa- rently from Cape Diamond, diagonally across both La Grande Allee and Z/C Petit Chcmin ; and th«^"ce into Garden Street. Close to the spot wher «.) Chapel now stands, and nearly in front . -le great door, was the residence of Madame De La Peltrie, the founder of the Convent ; which is described in the plan as occupying, in 1642, the corner of Garden Street, nearly opposite to the classi- cal school and residence of the Reverend D, Wilkie. The Ursuline Convent itself stood to the north- west of Madame De La Peltrie's house, abutting on Le Petit Chemi?i, which ran parallel to St. Louis Street, and fronting towards Gardvsn Street. It is represented as being a well proportioned and substan- tial building, wo stories high, with an attic — four chimnies, and a cupola, or belfry in the centre. The number of windows in front were eleven on the upper story ; which contained the parloir, dormitory, and infirmary. On the lower story were the Chapel, and other necessary apartments. The door leading to the parloir, which was in the upper story, opened on the south end : that of the Chapel was in front of the building. The Convent was surrounded by a court, in which, according to the ancient plan, was the well. Several female children are represented as taking their recreation there between the hours of school attendance. In other compartments of this singular map are seen, La Mere de l'In- carnation, so celebrated by Charlevoix, instruct- ing the young sauvagesses, under an ancient ash tree i^^M^re St, Joseph, going to teach the cate- 208 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, I cl»ism to the Huron and Alj^onquin neophytes ; and Me?'e St, Croix, accompanied by a young Canadian boarder, proceeding to visit the wigwams of the sa- vages, some of whom are represented as residing in the forest, inclosed within the precincts of the Ursulines. With the exception of the buildings of the Convent, its court yard, and Madame De La Peltrie's house, all the ground including both sides of bt. Lewis Street, is represented in the picture as ill the natural state. In La Grande Allee — the pre- sent St. Lewis Street — v/e see M. Daillebout, the Governor, on horseback, riding gently along — he has, apparently, just been conversing with Ma- dame De La Peltrie, who is entering her own h* use, conducting a young female by the hand. In Garden Street are several priests, probably Recol- lets, approaching the Convent. The plan we have attempted to describe is proba- bly the most ancient, as it is the most interesting, representation extant of any portion of Quebec in its early days. In 1650, the Convent was destroyed by fire — an enemy which provec -.lOSt destructive to the early establishments of Quebec. The fire broke ou' on the 30th December ; and was occasioned by some coals which had been left by a sister employed in the bake- house, which was in a cellar at the north end of the building. The Nuns made their escape by the door at the south end, which led by a staircase to the parloir ; but the building was entirely consumed. Its inmates, to the number of fourteen, were kindly received, and hospitably entertained during three weeks, by the Nuns of the Hotel Dieu. On the 21st January, 1651, they removed to the house of Madame De La Pelthie, which had been prepared for their WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 209 n reception. On this occasion a solemn act, or conven- tion, was drawn up and executed by the Superiors of the Ursulines and the Hospitali^res, the purport of which was, " that in order to preserve a perpetual and indissoluble union and love between the two Communities, there shall exist between them for the future an entire friendship, and participation of spi- ritual goods, with a mutual exchange of good offices, and prayers." In the plan of the old Convent to which we have above referred, there is also introduced a represen- tation of Sister St. Laurent, a woman of extraor- dinary merit, who is described as one of the most sainted Nuns the Community ever possessed. She greatly contributed to the re-establishment of the UiisuLiNE Convent, after this fire, not only by her intelligence and economy, but evcii by personal labor. On the 2 1st October, 1686, on the F^te of St. Ursula, and during the performance of high mass, the Convent caught fire, and was a second time burned to the ground, without any conjecture as to the manner in which the accident originated. No- thing was saved from the rapidity of the flames, neither provisions, or linen, or any other clothing than that in use at the time. Once more, the Ur- sulines took refuge with the Ilospitalieres, who received them as kindly as before, to the number of twenty-five ; and they again remained for the space of three weeks under the roof of the Hotel Dieu, receiving every possible mark of attention and com- miseration from that Community. In the mean time, such was the utility of this Institution, that every one took an interest in the reparation of the disaster. The Governor and the Intendant, the Jesuits and s 2 ii'i I 210 NEW PICTURE OF QULBEC, i'iii other Communities all contributed by every means in their power. The rebuilding of the Convent was soon commenced ; and a small house was hastily constructed, in which they passed the winter, all the necessary furniture and utensils having been gene- rously supplied by the HospitaliSres. It was singu- lar, that on the very day on which the Ursulines left the Hotel Dieu, accompanied, as a mark of respect and friendship, by the Superior and one or two of the Nuns Hospitaliires, the latter were near being reduc- ed to the same extremity as that from wliich they had relieved the Ursulines. One of the HospitaliireSi who had returned much fatigued, after passing the day in assisting the Ursulines to establish themselves in their temporary residence, fell asleep in her cell, leaving a candle burning in the socket, which soon communicated to the furniture. Fortunately, the sister whose duty it was to see that all was secure before retiring for the night, discovered the accident in time to save the life of the careless Nun, and pro- bably the whole building from destruction. The Ursuline Convent of Quebec having been found of such utility, the inhabitants of Three- Rivers made application to Monseigneur de St. Vallier, then Bishop, for a separate foundation of Ursulines for that Borough. This was accomplish- ed in 1697, when the Ursuline Convent was esta- blished there, depending upon the w^i^munity of Quebec ; and uniting, with their own consent, the office of Ursulines with that of HospitaliSres — at once educating the female children, and administer- ing to the wants of the sick. A similar union of the duties of these two Communities was found convenient in Louisiana, where the Ursulines were established i 1 'Vt WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 211 at New Orleans in 17*25, and combined with their other occupations the care of the Hospital. The Nunnery, which with its garden and outbuild- ings occupies seven acres of ground within its own Fief of St. Joseph, is a plain but commodious edifice of stone, two stories high, forming a square of about thirty-eight yards long, by forty feet deep. The rest of the site, with the exception of the court, is occu- pied by a productive garden, and surrounded by a stone wall. The Chapel and Choir of St. Ursula is ninety-five feet long, and forty-five feet broad. Quite plain o.nd unpretending without, its altars are highly adorned, and the whole interior is not deficient in a venerable and religious appearance. Within the grating, it is connected with the Convent ; and opens to the public towards Garden Street. In the ancient plan above mentioned, the exact site of the present door is accurately laid down, as we have described it above. Within the precincts of the Convent lie buried the remains of the gallant Marquis De Montcalm, who was mortally wounded in the eventful battle of the Plains of Abrrham, 13th September, 1759. A y?9r or tVfO ago a plain mjirble slab was placed in the Ursuline Chapei to the memory of this brave hut unfortunate soldier, by His Excellency th« Lord Aylmlr, Governor-in-Chief of these Pro - vinces. The following is the simple inscription up- on this sb.'i) : — Honneur h Montcalm ! * Le destin en lui derobant La Victoire, L'a recompense par Uoe Mort Gloiieuse ! 212 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, The Ursuline Chapel contains several good pic- tures, which may be examined on application to the Chaplain. Among them is a Mater Dolorosa by Vandyke : a picture on a religious subject by the celebrated Le Sueur: — The Capture of Christians by Algerine pirates^ by Restout, historical painter to the King of France, who died in 1753 : — Two pic- tures, The Saviour at meat in SimorCs house, and, A full length portrait of the Redeemer, by Champagne, an eminent Flemish painter, who was afterwards painter to the Queen of Frpnce, and died in 1674. The community of the « Jrsulines consists of a Superior, forty-two professed Nuns, and some novices. Their rules are rigidly exclusive, and their Convent is not open to public inspection, beyond the Parloir and the Chapel. It is in its interior neat, well ar- ranged, and tastefully decorated. The Nuns are devoted to the instruction of young females in useful knowledge, and ornamental education when required; their school has long been esteemed one of the best in the Province. The paintings executed by them- selves are much admired : their embroidery and fancy work are sold at high rates. The proceeds of the skill and labor of these Nuns go to augment the common stock, and enable them to extend their usefulness without diminishing the fixed property of their Community. THE SEMINARY OF QUEBEC. , This highly useful and meritorious establishment was founded and endowed by Monseigneur De Laval de Montmorency, first Bishop of Canada, in the year 1663. It was intended at first chiefly as an Ecclesiastical Institution, with a few young pupils WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 213 who were educated here for the ministry. — At the extinction of the Jesuits* Order, the members of the Quebec Seminary, although the institution was in distressed circumstances, threw open its doors to J\ie youth of the country generally. Professorships were established, and all the ordinary branches of litera- ture and science began to be taught. The buildings were twice burned to the ground, during the life of its venerable founder, who had resigned his Bishopric, and retired to the Seminary ; where he spent the last twenty years of his useful and pious life — he died Ion the 6th May, 1708. The first fire took place on the 15th November, 1701, during the absence of most of the priests. The Bishop escaped half dressed, land, With the other ecclesiastics, was received into I the Bishop's Palace. Not discouraged by the des- truction of this offspring of his piety and munificence, he determined that no means should be left untried to rebuild it. A strong representation was made to the Court ; and a yearly pension of four thousand [ livres was granted as an aid towards its re-establish- Iment. After four years labor had been bestowed upon it, it was again set on fire, on the 1st October, 1705, by the carelessness of a workman, whose [pipe communicated to some combustible matter. lOn this occasion Bishop De Laval retired to the Jesuits* College. The Seminary was rebuilt, but was destined to be almost totally destroyed during the siege of 1759, previous to the battle of the Plains of Abraham. Its disasters were even not yet com- plete, for it was once more partially consumed by ifireinl772. The authority of the Seminary resides in a Board I of Directors, five or seven in number, one of whom is Superior, elected triennally. The other officers are P.I Hi ij :i *?.! ■ mil 214 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, the Siiperior*s two assistants, the Procureur, a direc- torof the theologicaldepartment,or Grarid^Seminaire, the two directors, or rather, the director and principal Prefet des Etudes of the College, and the Steward, Assistant' Procureur, All these, except the last, are appointed yearly by the Board of Directors. Besides the five or seven directors, there are, or may be several aggregate, or associate members of the esta- blishment. The members of the establishment receive no emoluments — they consecrate themselves, gratuitous' ly, to one of the most arduous as well as of the most meritorious works, the education of youth. All the Institution guarantees to them is " food and rai- ment," in sickness and in health — they make no spe- cial vows — hence they are at liberty to leave the In- stitution, when ever health or any other important cause requires it. Except the Superior, the Procureur and Assistant-Procureur, they are all commonly en-, gaged in teaching either divinity or the sciences. The present number of Professors is as follows : three for the theological part, or C and-Seminaire ; and twelve, including the Prefet des Etudes, orP !n- cipal for the College. — The annual number of pupils is 260, of whom 110 are boarders — the others board at home, or with some relation in town. The branches of education taught are chiefly, French, English, Latin and Greek ; Geography; Arithmetic ; ancient and modern History, both sacred and profane ; Latin poetry ; Belles-Lettres, Rhetoric, and a very extensive course of Philosophy, whict includes Logic, Metaphysics, Ethics, Algebra, Geo- metry, occasionally Conic Sections, Astronomy, Natural Philosophy, Chemistry, Architecture, &c.; ^ WITH HlSTOItlCAL RECOLLECTIONS. 215 rs of the esta- it receive no to wkicli must be added lessons in Natural History, Mineralogy, Geology, Drawing, Music, &c. The collegial course is divided into nine classes, occupying so many years — boys who can read and write are admitted into the first or elementary class — with higher qualifications, they are allowed to enter into more advanced classes — boys of superior talents will of course complete their studies in less time. In this Institution no payment is made for tuition —the boarders pay £17 10s. yearly, but of that sum a deduction is made for all absences of eight days or more. The day scholars pay 10s, in the fall, and a like sum in the spring, for wood, candles, &c. A small salary is paid to professors who are not mem- bers of the establishment. The annual public exercises are very splendid and interesting — they are attended by crowds of the most respectable citizens — the Governor-in-Chief, if not absent from town, usually assists at the distribution of prizes with which the exercises close. The commencement or vacation takes place about the 15th August. The pupils return at the expira- tion of six weeks. The funds of the Seminary hardly suffice for its support. It has, however, by means of long and strict economy, and still more by large sums of money arising from the sale of property given to the Institu- tion by several rich individuals in France, previously to the French Revolution, and partly recovered since the restoration of the Bourbons, been rebuilt upon a much larger plan, since 1820. The Seminary buildings, including the Chapel, are divided into four wings, three stories, and in some parts four stories high. Three of these wings inclose a spacious court, where the pupils spend their if w 216 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, liiiia hours of recreation. The fourth wing, instead of com- pleting the square, turns out at right angles with the central one, and faces with it a large and beautiful garden. The latter is one hundred and seventy yards long and two hundred broad, containing seven acres of ground. It faces the grand battery and overlooks the harbor. It includes several rows of planted fruit trees, lilachs, &c. ; a bocage of forest trees, and a terrace from which the view of the basin and of the surrounding scenery is most magnificent The whole length of the Seminary buildings on three of its sides is seventy yards. The fourth wing is fifty yards long. They are in width forty-two feet, except the old or central wiiig, which is only thirty feet wide. I'he interior is traversed at each story by immense corridors leading to the halls, dormitories, refectories, classes, apartments of the Priests and of | the Bishop, who resides in the Seminary. In the Bishop's antichamber are suspended the portraits of j his twelve predecessors. . ; > . v * : : .. ^ -..\ ;. The Chapel of the Seminary, the vestibule of which is at the grand entrance to the buildings from the Cathedral and market square, contains the best collectioji of paintings to be seen in the country, of the French school and by eminent masters. They are, The flight of Joseph to Egypt, by Jean Baptiste Vanloo, a French portrait painter, who died in 1746. He was the brother of Carlo Vanloo, in great esteem at Paris. Jean Baptiste Vanloo was painter to the King of France. He went to England, and became the favorite painter in London. His pictures are natural, thoroughly finished, and in no part neglect- ed. The wise men of the East adoring the Saviour^ by Bourieu ; — The' Saviour's sepulchre and intermetU, by Hutin ; — The Ascension of the Lord Jesus, — Tk III WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 217 Day of Pentecost^ — and St Jerome writing, by the brothers Champagnes* These were both eminent artists, uncle and nephew, and natives of Brussels : Philip was a landscape painter and died in 1674. He was painter to the Queen of France, and mem- ber of the Academy of Painting. He designed cor- rectly, had an agreeable tone of color, and well understood the principles of perspective. His ne- phev/, Jean Baptiste Champagne, died in 1688. He was a good artist, and studied under his uncle. He was professor of the Royal Academy. The trance of St, Anthony, by Panocel d'Avignes : — Peter's de-' liverance from prison, by Charles De la Fosse, a French painter, who died in 1716. He was a dis- ciple of Le Brun, and was sent by Louis XIV. to finish his studies at Rome. He imitated Titian and Paolo Veronese, and became an excellent colo- rist. He was fond of large compositions, and much employed in royal palaces and public buildings. He was invited to England by the Duke of Montague, and employed by him in ornamenting his townhoiise, now the British Museum. The Baptism of Christ, by Claude Guy Halle : The terror of St» Jerome at the recollection of a vision of the day of Judgment, by D*Hullin : The Egyptian Hermits in the soli- tude of Thebais, and another on the same subject, by Guillot : The Virgin ministered U7ito by Angels, by De Dieu : The Saviour, and the Woinan of Samaria at Jacob's well, by Lagrende : A large figure of the Saviour on the Cross, by Monet ; — and above the altar, a small oval picture, representing two Angels, by Charles Le Brun, an illustrious French painter of Scottish extraction, who died in 1690. He is reported to have drawn figures with charcoal at three years old. At twelve, he drew a T I III 218 KEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, picture of his uncle, which is even now considered a fine piece. A very beautiful apartment, adorned with modern Ionic columns, is the congregation hall, or interior Chapel of the StuderMS. The library contains about 8000 volumes. In **: ? Philosophical Cabinet are to be seen a very valuable collection of instruments, which is rapidly increasing : a number of antiquities and Indian utensils, — a small mineralogical cabinet, composed at Paris under the direction of the cele- brated Abbe Hauy — some geological specimens, fossils, petrifactions, &c. — numerous specimens of the precious and other ores from South America — shells, insects, — and an imitation of the Falls of Niagara. THE GENERAL HOSPITAL, It has been stated in the account of the Re collet Convent, that this extensive establishment, — situate on the River St. Charles, about a mile from the walls, and near the spot whc re Jacques Cartier first wintered in New France — owes its foundation to Monseigneur de Saint Valli?r, second Bishop of Quebec, who bought the property of the Recollets at Notre Dame des Anges, and procured for them a site opposite the Fort of St. Lewis, on which at pre« sent stands the English Cathedral. The Bishop expended a very large sum in those days, one hun- dred thousand crowns, on the buildings, which were intended for a General Hospital for invalids, and as an asylum for persons permanently afflicted with disease. The Hotel Dieu was instituted for the care of incidental maladies. • ^ ; WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 219 Previously to the foundation of the General Hospital, there had been established at Quebec since 1688, an office for the relief of the poor, Bu- reau des pauvres, to which every colonist and com- munity vvas bound to furnish an annual sum, to be expended under the management of Trustees. The revenue of this ofTice amounted to two thousand livres a year, which were sufficient at that time to relieve the helpless poor, and to prevent mendicity, which was not tolerated. The country parishes in the same manner provided for the maintenance of their poor. The Bishop, having undertaken to relieve the city from the support of its helpless and infirm poor, obtained the junction of these funds with the revenue of his own foundation ; and the Trustees of the Bureau des Pauvres were chosen also adminis- trators of the General Hospital. The foundation was at first under the charge of the sisters of the Congregation ; but afterwards, in 1692, not without great objection on their part, it was placed under the care of the Hospitalieres, re- ceiving from the community of the Hotel Dieu its Superior, and in all twelve professed Nuns. In 1701, the Nuns of the General Hospital were made a separate and independent community, and are so at the present day. The following is the account given by Charlevoix of this splendid foundation : " At the distance of half a quarter of a league you find the Hopiial-GeneraL This is the finest house in all Canada, and would be no disparagement to our largest cities in France ; the Fathers Recollets for- merly owned the ground on which it stands. M. De St. Vallier, Bishop of Quebec, removed them into the city, bought their settlement, and expend- 220 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ed a hundred thousand crowns in buildings, furniture, and in foundations. The only fault of this hospital is its being built in a marsh ; they hope to be able to remedy it by draining ; but the River St. Charles makes a winding in this place, into which the waters do not easily flow, so that this inconvenience can never be effectually removed. " The prelate, who is the founder, has his apart- ments in the house, which he makes his ordinary residence ; having let his palace, which is also his own buildirg, for the benefit of the poor. He even is not above serving as Chaplain to the Hospital, as well as to the Nuns, the functions of which office he fills with a zeal and application which would be ad- mired in a simple priest who got his bread by it. The artisans, or others, who on account of their great age, are without the means of getting their subsis- tence, are received into this hospital until all the beds ill it are full, and thirty Nuns are employed in serv- ing them. These are a scion or colony from the hospital of Quebec ; but in order to distinguish them, the Bishop has given them certain peculiar regula- tions, and obliges them to wear a silver cross on their breast. Most part of them are young women of condition, and as they are not those of the easiest circumstances in the country, the Bishop has portion- ed several of them." The General Hospital is at present a Nunnery, governed by a Superior, having forty-five professed Nuns, a few Novices and Postulanies, The whole ap- pearance, both external and internal, of this Hospital is regular and pleasing ; while the general arrangement and economy are highly creditable to the institution. Its front is two hundred and twenty-eight feet long —its form nearly square. The main building is WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 221 thirty-three feet deep ; but on the south-west side, a range of one hundred and thirty feet long has fifty feet in breadth. The Chapel is very neat, and has a gallery commu- nicating with the Hospital, for the use of the indigent sick. A separate house is appropriated to the rece])- tion of the insane : the Province, however, requires an establishment on a larger scale for these unfortu- nates. At Three-Rivers there is an establishment for the insane under the charge of the Ursulines of the Convent. The means of the General Hospital, from its unrestricted character, have been found inadequate to defray the expenses of the establishment, and the deficiency is occasionally supplied by grants from the Provincial Parliament. The Nuns are distin- guished for the manufacture of Church ornaments, and for their skill in gilding. The produce of the sale of these works becomes part of the general fund of the Institution. 1 f ' } ' Is I «, • . i- > T 2 . { • "I ,•4 H ''; t'lM 222 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ' CHAPTER THE ELEVENTH. RELIGIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS CONCLUDED — FRENCH AND ENGLISH CATHEDRALS — OTHER PLACES OF WORSHIP. The rise and prosperity of the Colony, and the improvement of Quebec, may be uated from the period when it became the seat of the Royal Govern- ment in New France. The Colony began imme- diately to reap the fruits of the change of system, which followed the resignation of the Company's charter into the hands of the King, Measures were adopted to infuse a more liberal spirit into the Colo- ny, to raise the quality and character of the settlers, and to give a higher tone to the society. The King took a most judicious method to accomplish this. He resolved to confer upon the Government a dogree of comparative splendor, worthy of the great nation of which it was a dependency. In 1664, he sent out to Quebec the most brilliant emigration that had ever sailed from France for the new world. It con- sisted of a Viceroy, a Governor-General, an Inten- dant, and other necessary officers of the Civil Government — the Regiment of Carignan, command- ed by Colonel de Salieres, and officered by sixty or seventy French gentlemen, most of whom were connected with the Noblesse. Many of these gentle- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 223 men settled in the Province, and having obtained concessions of the waste lands, became the Noblesse of the Colony, and were the ancestors of the best French families of the present day. The beneficial manner in which this infusion of superior blood, edu- cation and accomplishments must have operated, as regards the social and domestic manners of the Colo- nists, previously devoted to the humblest occupations of trade, may be easily imagined. Liberal tastes were encouraged — sentiments of honor and genero- sity pervaded the highest rank in society, the influ- ence of which was speedily felt through every class of the inhabitants. The Marquis de Tracy, who had the Commission of Viceroy, staid little more than a year in the Province. He made a successful expedition against the Iroquois, and returning to France, carried with him the aflfections of all the inhabitants. He maintained a state which had never before been seen in Canada, rightly judging, that in a Colony at so great a distance from the Mother Coun- try, the royal authority should be maintained before the public eye in all its external dignity and observan- ces. Besides the Regiment of Carignan, he was allow- ed to maintain a body guard, wearing the same uniform as the Garde Royale of France. He always appeared on state occasions with these guards, twenty- four in number, who preceded him. Four pages im- mediately accompanied him, followed by six valets, — the whole surrounded by the officers of the Carignan Regiment, and of the civil departments. M. De CouRCELLES, the Governor General, and M. De Talon, the Intendant, had each a splendid equipage. It is mentioned in an interesting French manuscript, from which we have taken much valuable informa- tion never before published, that as both these gen- 2-24 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I tlemen were men of birth, education, handsome figure and accomplished manners, they gave a most favorable impression of the royal authority, then first personally represented in New France. Although Quebec at this period contained little more than seventy private houses, after the establish- ment of the Seminary it was found necessary, viewing the march of improvement which ha^I just commenced, to construct the Cathedral Church on a scale suf- ficiently large for the encreased population ; and with a splendor corresponding with the new prospects of the Colony under the Royal Government. After about three years labor, the French Cathedral was finished on its present site, between Buade Street, the Bishop*s Palace, and the Seminary, with its front towards the Jesuits' College. It was consecrated under the title of the Immaculate Conception, on the 18th July, 1666, with all the imposing ceremonies usually observed on similar occasions. Before this time, the Jesuits' Church had been used as the Pa- roisse of Quebec. The French Cathedral was built under the auspices of Monseigneur FRAN901S de Laval, first Bishop of Quebec, to whom the Colony was also indebted for the creation of the Seminary. In 1659, the great success of the Missionaries in converting the Indians to the true faith induced the Jesuits to recommend the appointment of an Eccle- siastic of superior rank, in order to confirm the nascent piety of the colony, and to reprf^ss any disorders in its spiritual government which Eight arise, without the care and supervision of an authorised head of the Church. At their instance, FRAN901S De Laval, Abb^ de Montigny, of the noble house of Montmo- rency, and at that time Archdeacon of Evreux, was WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 225 selected as the person on whom the Episcopal dig- nity should first be conferred in New France. He arrived in Quebec, according to Charlevoix, on the 6th June, 1659, with the title of Bishop of PETRiEA, and the rank of Vicar Apostolical, accompanied by- several Priests and Chaplains, He was received with every mark of joy and distinction in his new diocese, as the first Prelate of New France ; and took up his residence for three months after his arrival in apartments belonging to the Nuns Hospitaliires, at the Hotel Dieu, The first Pontifical Mass is mentioned in the Jesuits' Journal to have been per- formed on the 29th June : doubtless in their own Church, which then served as the Paroisse. Quebec was not, however, erec4;ed formally into a Bishops* See until 1670, owing to some difficulties which arose. It was to hold of the PopEj but to be attach- ed to the Archbishopric of Rouen. In order to I support the See, the King conferred upon it the revenues of the Abbey of Maubec ; which in the I time of Monseigneur de St. Vallier, the second Bishop, were augmented by those of the Abbey of Benevent. The Bishop was entitled to the second seat in the Council, or that next to the Governor. The chapter originally was composed of the Dean, 1 Grand Precentor, Grand Archdeacon, a Theologal, land twelve Canons. This establishment was, how- ever, afterwards reduced, for want of sufficient reve- Inue. The Bulls, and other necessary and expensive [formalities for installing the new Bishop were still to )e obtained, and they required his presence in France; [so that it was not until 1674, that the King's Letters iPatent were finally issued, and the See was officially [constituted. This excellent prelate finding, in 1684, that his strength was not equal to the fatigues of his ir 226 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, Diocese, repaired to France ; and obtained the King's permission to retire. He was succeeded by the Abbe De St. Vallier, who came out in 1685, and was after- wards consecrated second Bishop. Bishop De Laval, as stated above, retired to his foundation of the Semi- nary, where he lived respected and beloved until his death in 1708, at an advanced age. To the second Bishop of Quebec, the city was also indebted for the establishment of the General Hospital, where he himself resided, having let the Episcopal Palace for the benefit of the poor. The Fre nch Cathedral occupies the south side of the market square in the Upper Town, and im- mediately adjoins the Seminary. It is distinguished rather for its solidity and neatness, than for splendor or regularity of architecture. The aisles, considera- bly lower than the nave of the Church — and the lofty tower and spire built without, and separated from it on the south side — in the manner of the round towers which are seen near the old Churches in Ireland and in other countries, — destroy all external | symmetry, yet do not detract from the religious ap- pearance of the pile. The Cathedral within is very I lofty, with massive arches of stone dividing the nave from the aisles, above which is a ^-allery on each side | running the whole length of the interior. It is de- scribed by Colonel Bouchette, in his statistical work, I as two hundred and sixteen feet in length, by one I hundred and eight in breadth. It is able to contain a congregation of about four thousand persons. At the east end are the grand Altar and Choir, superbly decorated. There are also four small Chapels in the aisles, dedicated to different Saints. In a transverse gallery at the west end is the Organ, which thougli WITH Historical recollections. 2-27 fine, is by no means so powerful in tone as that in the English Cathedral. I'he Church suffered severely during the bom- bardment prior to the battle of the Plains, in 1759. In an old print extant, it is represented as almost in ruins, having been set on fire by shells discharged from Pointe Levi. The consequence was, that the fine pictures and other ancient ornaments of the Cathedral were mutilated, or entirely destroyed. Those which are now seen upon the walls were placed there when the building was renovated, after the cession of the Province to Great Britain. Within the Choir, a little to the right of the Altar, is a marble tablet with the following inscription to the memory of the late Phhop, Monseigneur Plessis, who is freshly remembered for his piety and virtue : D. O. M. Hie Jacet, Illust : et Rev : J. O. I*les8Is, Episcopus Quebecensis. Ingenio perspicaci, Singular! in rebus agendis peritia, Constant! tuendae dlsciplinse studio, Multisque dotibus aliis ornatum praeclaris Vix parem reperias. Eximi^ pietate, zelo, summa prudentia Ac doctrina, necnon eloquentiae gravitate, Canadensi, per quatuor lustra, prsefuit ecclesiee. Scientiarum studiis honorera. Patriae decus, religion! splendorem Attulit. Magna raoliri, ardua vincere, Consiliis advcrsa suis patienter sustinere Ipsi praeclara laus fuit. Quera iter trans mare aggredientcm, Quo bonis amplioribus aHluerent oves dilectse^ Anxia viderat, 228 I I NEW PICTURE OF J^UEBEC, Homa reducem post 13 menses, et votis redditum, Tota civitas exultans recepit. Plurimisque mainis rebus gestis, majora meditatus, Vitse laboris et glorise Cursum confecit, Anno rep. sal. MDCCCXXV. prid. Non. Decemb. Aetatis suae LXIII. Hie ora, Lector, ; ; ; Ubi vivens orabat. ' The Roman Catholic Church of the Con- gregation stands on the hill leading from the Esplanade to St. John's-Gate. It is not of ancient construction, and perfectly plain in its interior. Its spire is seen immediately above the ramparts. The Roman Catholic Church of St. Rock's is the place of worship frequented by the inhabitants of that populous suburb. It is also a modern edifice of very spacious dimensions, with a spire ; and is situated in an open space, fronting towards the Vacherie, or former possessions of the Jesuits. It is well finished within, and has several paintings. In the Sacristy are portraits of Pope Pius VII, and of Bishop Plessis, a great benefactor to this Church. The ground on which this Church is built was given by the Honorable John Mure. The Church of Notre Dame d^s Victolres is the only one in the Lower Town belonging to the Frencli inhabitants. It stands in the square, or market place, plain and substantial within and without ; and possesses claims to antiquity, having been built and used as a Church previously to 1690, In that year amid the joy caused by the defeat of Sir William Phipps, in his attempt to capture the Town, the lek of Notre Dame de la Victoire was established, to be annually celebrated in this Church on the 7ih Octo- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 229 ber — that being the day on which the first intelligence of the coming of the English was received. On that occasion, it is stated that M. De La Colombiere, the Archdeacon, preached an eloquent discourse. After the shipwreck of the English fleet in 1711, which was considered by the inhabitants as a second victory, and little less than a miraculous interposition in their favor, this Church received the name of Notre Dame des Victoires, in order to commemorate both occasions at the same time. The same preacher, M. De La CvOLOMbiere, is stated in our French manu- script to have again delivered a most eloquent ser- mon, *• which was listened to by the auditors with transports of joy." Thifi Church was also destroyed by the fire from the Pointe Levi batteries in 1759. It is said that it contained at that time a piv,ture representing a city in flames, with an inscription stating " that in the yoar 1711, when Quebec was menaced with a siege by Admiral Walker and General Hill, one of the Religieuses prognosticated that the Church and the Lower Town would be destroyed by the British in a conflagration before the year 1760." We know not how far this tradition may be founded on fact ; but it would seem that the inscription, in those terms, must have been placed upon the picture after the prophecy was accomplished. The story is, however, said to have been well attested, and to have made considerable impression on the minds of the people at the time. Our French manuscript mentions the joy of the people at the defeat of the attempt in 1711, but contains no allusion to the supposed pro- phecy. > ; , < • 1 I St ■il 230 HEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, CA'lHEDRAL OF THE CHJRCH OF ENGLAND. It has been stated that the Convent, Church and Garden of the Recollet Fathers occupied the site in the front of the Castle of St. Lewis, as far as the Ursuline Convent in the rear, and contained within St. Lewis, St. Anne and Garden Streets. After the burning of the Church and Convent in 1796, the buildings were razed to the foundation, on the extinction of the order, and the ground ap- propriated as a site for the new English Cathedral, Tl ' Court House is also built on part of the jrrcu id. The area in the centre of the Place (TArmes was i\<\ always so large. Until a few years ago the foundations of the Recollet Church were to be traced upon the rocky surface, several yards in advance of the present boundary on the western side. On le- velling these foundations, and the rock on which they stood, two plates were found, the inscriptions on which were given in the account of the Recollet Church. In the month of July, 1834, on sinking one of the posts which surround the area of the Place (T Armes^ some human bones were discovered very near the surface. As, from their situation, they must have been outside the Convent, it may be fairly supposed that they were the remains of one of the Aborigines, buried there before the coming of the French. The English Cathedral was built by the bounty of Government, upon the representations of the first Bishop of Quebec, and consecrated in 1804. It is an edifice of regular architecture and very respectable appearance, standing in a spacious area, handsomely enclosed by iron rails and gates, and planted with trees. Its exterior length is 135 feet, its breadth WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 231 ENGLAND. 73 ; tlie height of the spire above the ground, 1 52 ; from the floor to the centre of the arch within, 41. The communion plate of this Church is very mag- nificent, and persons in London went to see it while making in the hands of Rundell and Bridge. This plate, together with the altar cloth, hangings of the desk and pulpit, which are of crimson velvet and cloth of gold, and books for divine service, was a private present from King George the Third. A good peal of eight bells, of which the tenor bell is about 16 cwt., was procured some few years ago, by the subscriptions of the congregation. The Church has an excellent organ and a regular Cathe- dral choir, but no Dean and Chapter. It serves also as the Parish Church, until such an .difice shall be erected, with a reservation in favor ot t ue Episcopal rights. Near the altar is an elegaat font of white marble. Two new galleries have been recently constructed in the Cathedral, thrown back o each side of the organ, for the accommodation, respectively, of the children attending the male and female National Schools — the front of each is allotted to the orphans of the Asylums, in their distinctive dresses. 11 i MONUMENT TO THE LATE LORD BISHOP OF QUEBEC. A beautiful monument, to the memory of the late Bishop of Quebec, the Right Reverend Jacob Mountain, D. D., has lately been erected in the Ca- thedral Church, within the rails of the communion- table, immediately over the spot where his mortal remains are deposited, occupying the lower part of the space of which the remainder is appropriated to the second table of the commandments. {if: , 232 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, The dimensions of this monument are eight feet by six, and its weight exceeds two tons. The work, which is executed by Nicholls, is of white marble, upon a marble ground, finished off in a semi-circular form at the top. The execution is very superior, the whole effect extremely striking, and the likeness of the Bishop most satisfactory, — although the friends who remember him in this country, where the nature of the climate induced him to dispense with the wig, regret that the head is not represented with his own venerable hair. The principal object is his bust in the episcopal dress, the whole head inclining forward and standing out entire, from the shoulders upward. The bust rests upon a pedestal on which the arms, surmounted by the mitre, are carved, and below, the inscription is engraved. On the other, a full length figure of Religion, clasping a bible to her breast, with the emblematical appendages of the cross and the crosier, or pastoral staff. The monument forms a conspicuous ornament of the church, and is a suitable memorial of the excellent prelate who was the first occupier of the see, and procured the erection of the building itself. It is a circumstance, however, which ought not to be left unnoticed, that, upon his demise, a desire was ex- pressed by his clergy, and formed the subject of very gratifying communications which passed among them, to combine in paying a tribute of this nature them- selves to his memory, if not rendered unneces- sary by the proceeding which might be adopted by the family. The inscription is as follows, and we are sure that it will be regarded as simple and mo- dest : — * ' i*- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 233 i Hie Jacet Viradmodum rererendus , Jacob Mountain, S. T. P. t Episcopus Quebecensis, Ecclesiae Anijlicanse, in Canadis fiindator, Qui obiit A. S. MDCCCXXV. iEtatis suaB LXXV, Episcopatus XXXIII ; Pnesul in divine munere obeundo, Promptus, lidelis, indefessus ; in memoriam > viri egregfii, • et sibi carissimi, hoc marmor conjux et liberi superstites P. C. r I I /I The remains of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Aubigny, Governor General of these Provinces, are interred beneath the altar. He died, supporting to the last the tor- ments of hydrophobia with undaunted constancy, on the *28th day of August, 1819. No monument has yet been erected to his memory, although no man died more universally beloved. The following are the inscriptions upon the other monuments : — . fi- 5ii' Sacred to the Memory ■ of Lieutenant General Peter Hunter, LieutenantGovernor of UpperCanada and Coinmander.in-Chief of his Majesty's forces in both the Canadas, who died at Quebec, on the 21st August, 1805, aged 59 years. u 2 i!| 234 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, His life was spent in the 8er?ice of his King and country. Of the various stations, both civil and military, which he filled, He discharged the duties with spotless iutegrity, unwearied zeal, and successful abilities. This memorial to a beloved brother, whose mortal part rests in the adjacent place of burial. Is ere ^ted by John Hunter, M. D. of London. In memory of Thomas Dunn, Esq. of Durham, in England, who departed this life on the 15th April, A. D. 1818. In the 88th year of his age. During his long residence in this country, where he established himself soon after the conquest. He held several important situations under Government: He was one of the original Members of the Legislative and Executive Councils, In which last capacity, during two different vacant intervals, He administered the Government of the Province. His known integrity and goodness procured him the confidence and respect of the community ; And he was eminently possessed of those private qualities Which cause men to be beloved during life, and lamented io death. , *s f -• ' ; ti "blessed are THE DEAD "which DIE IN THE LORD." , , j Sacred to the Memory of The Honble. Carleton Thomj Monckton, Fifth son of Robert Arundel, fourth , Iscount Galway, By his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Daniel Matthew, Esquire, of Felix Hall, Essex, And great nephew of the Honble. BrigadierGeneral Monckton, who succeeded to the command of the British army Upon the death of General Wolfe, at the splendid victory WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 235 achieved on the heif^hts of Abraham, 13th Sept , A. D. 1759. At the age of fifteen he entered the array and served in Spain, And at the Battle of Waterloo was a Lieutenant in the 16th Regt. of Light Dragoons. He some years afterwards became a Captain in the 24th Regt. of Infantry, which he accompanied to Canada, and died after a short illness at Quebec, on the 10th May, A. D. 1830, li\ the 31th jear Ok 'lis age, beloved by his brother Officers, ana sincerely lamented by all who knew him. This tablet was erectod by his sorrowing brothers and sisters, as a testimony of their fond affection to o:eeii dons expected, ized to contract ft, sixty feet by finished, was lame of Saint js of christian lo, by the late le 7th March, (preisent incum- the Presbytery Irch, 1820, and preached for the first time to the congregation on the 4th June following. In the year 1821, the Church being found far from adequate to the accommodation of its members, a Petition was presented by the Trustees to His Ex- cellency ihe Earl of Dalhousie, for an additional space of ground to enable them to enlarge it — with which His Excellency was graciously pleased to comply, and also to grant an aid of £300 currency, out of the monies arising from the Jesuits' Estates, besides ge- nerously subscribing £50 currency, towards carrying the same into effect. The enlargement was completed in May, 1824, and with the exception of the above mentioned sums, cost the congregation by voluntary subscription near- ly £2300 currency. The Church, as it now stands, is 95 feet by 43 inside the walls, and can accommo- date 1300 sitters. The number of communicants exceeds 300 : upwards of 260 individuals received the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper in the Church, on the 2d day of March last. The Trustees are incorporated by an Act of the Provincial Parliament, which was assented to by His Majesty in Council, on the 3 1st January, 1831, and the royal assent thereto was signified by the proclamation of His Excellency the Governor-in- Chief, on the 29th April, 1831. A school, in connection with the Church, was erected by the Trustees in the year 1831, who re- ciived in aid of the building, the liberal sum of £400 currency, from the Provincial Legislature. The I school ^s under the management and direction of six |membeid of the Church, chosen annually by ballot at a general meeting of the congregation, held on [the first Sunday in the month of May, in the Church 240 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, immediately after divine st^rvico in the forenNon, when a report of the proceedings ot the Commi .r for the previous twelve montiis U laruished ly the Secretary. The number of S(?}>oi?»,r?, now in atten- dance is 112. The present teacliersaie Mr. Seaton, and his assistant, Mr. Laurie. There is also a Sunday School in connexion with the Church, which meets every Sunday at half-past 9 o'clock, and is numerously attended. The late Dr. Spark had an allowiince from Go- vernment of £50 sterling per annum, which has been continued to his successor. This is the only pro- vision as yet made by Government for the Clergy of the Church of Scotland in Lower Canada, witli the exception of a similar sum allowed annually to the Senior Clergyman of Saint Gabriel's Churcli, Montreal, although the Presbytery of Quebec con-! sists, at present, of twelve regularly ordained Cler- gymen of the Church of Scotlaiid« In 1830, the congregation of Saint John's Chiirdi, (previously an indepenoent vv congregational Cha- pel,) professing themselves to be willing to con- form to the doctrine, discipline and laws of tliel Church of Scotland, made application to the Glasgow Colonial Society for Missionary purposes, to send them out a rs^j^ularly ordained Clergyman to be their Pastor, and In consequence, the llev. Mr. Clugston was ordained to that Church by the Presbytery cfl Forfar in Scotland. The present number of com- municants is from 120 to 130, ST. John's chukch. This building stands in St, Francis Street, and is without ornament. It was erected in the ye«ir 1816) WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 241 and up to tb< ear 1830, it had been occupied as a place of worship by Con^regationalist*?, It is now, and has been since the date last spevnlrf^d, a place of worship in connexion with the Church of Scotland, and is named St. John's Church. The Minister and Trustees of St. John's Church were incorporated by Act of Parliament in the year 1831. ST. PATRICKS CHURCH. The Irish Catholics of Quebec, finding by the rapid increase of their number, that they could no longer conveniently assemble for public worship in the small Church of the Lower Town, came to the spirited determination of building a Church on an extensive scale, which would afford accommodation to all the Catholics of the City and Suburbs, using the English language. To effect this, they called a ge- neral meeting of all the members of iheir body, and immediately opened a subscription, which to the ever- lasting honor of their fellow citizens of every deno- mination, met wich the strongest marks of public approbation, evinced by the gratifying circumstance, that many of the most generous subscribers to the undertaking were ProtestantSc In the fall of 1831, a spacious lot of ground in rear of Palace Street was purchased for the s'im of £2,300 J and in the month of June following, the cor- ner- stone of St. Patrick's Church was laid with the usual ceremony. This circumstance took place just at the ever memorable time when that dreadful Ecourge, the Cholera Morbus, first burst upon the inhabitants of Quebec. The spirit and zeal of the Congregation on this trying occasion are beyond all X J! , 1 ii i MM^ V;V:,,:;(, i|ii R 'i.:; 242 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ' praise, ior tl-.eir persevering magnanimity in prose- cuting the undertaking throi gli all the unforeseen difficulties which arose out of the panic created in the public mind by that desolating pestilence — so that in the short space of twelve months the building was ready for dedication, which ceremony took place on the first Sunday in .Fuly, 1833, amid the hearty rejoicings and thanksgivi^g^s of a generous people. St, Patrick's Church is a fine substantial stone building, covering an area of 136 feet by 62. It fronts St. Helen Street, and is entered by three well moulded doors, the largest of which is in the tower, the other two in the side aisles, besides the two en- trances to the east and west. It is lighted on each side by a double tier of windows well made and in admirable proportion. The roof and galleries are supported by massive pillars with bases and capitals. Ilie ceiling is to be 48 feet high, richly embossed and ornamented with scriptural emblems. The steeple is handsome and well proportioned, and stands 120 feet from the ground to the ball which supports the cross. There are very extensive and mag- Tiiiicent galleries round the inside, terminating over the Sanctuary, furnished with a triple range of ele- gant pews, which, with those of the ground flat, are calculated to accommodate an immense congrega- • lon. The interior of this Church when finished, com- prising pillars, columns, arches, ceilings, the grand variegated altar, tabernacle and canopy, the adorned Sanctuary, the flank and end windows, organ, &c. vyilh all their varied tracery, will present a coi//> d\nl, tj strUivith the true gal- lantry of a French gentleman, he determined to assure her in person of his good wishes, but first put in practice a little ruse, which, as the story runs, redounded, in the denouement, both to his own and to the credit of the Superior. Coming to the Nun- nery, without equipage and plainly dressed, he requested to speak with the Superior, without giving any name. The Superior approached, accompanied by a Nun, the Mother Marie de la Na'ivite, — when assuming the character of his own gentleman or valet, he assured them in the most polite and well conceived terms of the respect and interest which M. De Talon had always felt towards their Commu- nity, and promised on his part that nothing should be wanting to promote their welfare. As he spoke admirably, with great confidence and earnestness of manner, the other Nun, who was a person of saga- city, making a sign to the Superior, replied, that she was not deceived in believing him to be of higher rank than that which he chose to assume* On M. De Talon's requesting to be informed, what there was about him to induce her to entertain such an opinion, the clever Nun made answer, that there was that in his language and appearance which convinced her that she had the honor of speaking to the Intendant himself. On this he acknowledged his attempt at dissimulation, and his great satisfaction at receiving so elegant and so obliging a compliment. It may be imagined that the result of this interview was a last- ing friendship between the Intendant and the Com- munity. He was mainly instrumental some years afterwards, in rebuilding the Hotel Dieu on a more extended scale, as described in our account of that be true gal- termined to but first put story runs, Kis own and to the Nun- dressed, he thout giving accompanied Jjri7e,— when rentleman or Jlite and well \terest which :heir Commu- ing should be As he spoke d earnestness erson of saga- plied, that she ) be of higher , On M. De rhat there was ch an opinion, here was that convinced her le Intendant lis attempt at n at receiving It. It may be ew was a last- aud the Com- il some years leu on a more tccount of that \ i" IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. ^/ A^ ^' V^. ..V V %* /. ^.^d. 1.0 l^|28 150 l"^" 2.5 2.2 1.1 l.-^l^ 1.8 1.25 1.4 |||.6 M 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WfST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 877-4503 *^ u^ M v^ '<^ es hii wa an( sur Rii far It\ the afte • m . calli nam whii T ther: four appe were sent Rive The Gove flowe reach ofCi spoke tranc< ruins The] WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 247 establishment ; and was besides distinguished for his liberality on many other occasions. THE INTENDANT's PALACE. i ; wm Immediately through Palace-Gate, turning to- wards the left, and in front of the Ordnance buildings and storehouses, once stood an edifice of great extent, surrounded by a spacious garden looking towards the River St. Charles, and as to its interior decorations, far more splendid than even the Castle of St. Lewis. It was the Palace of the Intendant, so called, because the sittings of the Sovereign Council were held there, after the establishment of the Royal Government in New France. A small district adjoining is still called, Le Palais, by the old inhabitants, and the name of the Gate, and of the well proportioned street which leads to it, are derived from the same origin. The Intendant s Prlace was described by La Po- therie, in 1698, as consisting of eighty toises, or four hundred and eighty feet, of buildings, so that it appeared a little town in itself. The King's stores were kept there. Its situation does not at the pre- sent time appear advantageous, but the aspect of the River St. Charles was widely different in those days. The property in the neighborhood belonged to the Government, or to the Jesuits — large meadows and flowery parterres adorned the banks of the river, and reached the base of the rock ; and as late as the time of Charlevoix, in 1720, that quarter of the city is spoken of as being the most beautiful. The en- trance was into a court, through a large gateway, the ruins of which, in St. Vallier Street, still remain. The buildings formed nearly a square — in front of M 248 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, the river were spacious gardens, and on the sides the King*s store houses. Beyond the Palace, to- wards the west, were the pleasing grounds of the Jesuits, and of the General Hospital. This building, like most of the public establish- ments of Quebec, went through the ordeal of fire, and was afterwards rebuilt with greater attention to comfort and embellishment. In September, 1712, M. B'egon arrived as Intendant, with a splendid equipage, rich furniture, plate and apparel befitting his rank. He was accompanied by his wife, a young lady lately married, whose valuable jewels were the general admiration. A fire, which it was found im- possible to extinguish, broke out in the night of the 5th January, 1713 ; and burned so rapidly, that the Intendant and his lady with difficulty escaped in their robes de chamhre. The latter was obliged to break the panes of glass in her apartment, before she had power to breathe, so as to attempt her escape through the smoke with which the passages were filled. Two young French women, who attended Madame Begon, perished in the flames — the Intendanfs valet anxious to save some of his master's'clothes, ventured impru- dently within the burning chambers, and was con- sumed by the flames — his secretary, desirous of rescuing some valuables, passed several times through the gardens towards the river in front of the house, without shoes, and was frozen. He died in the Hotel Dieu, a few days afterwards. The loss of the Inten- dant was stated at forty thousand crowns : his lady lost her jewels and rich dresses. Such, however, were the resources of M. Begon, that he is said to have lived with as much state in the Bishop's Palace, where he established himself, as he had maintained before the fire. On this occasion, the papers and WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 249 records of the Treasury were lost, as well as the regis- ters of the Council, and other valuable documents belonging to the King op France. The Palace was afterwards rebuilt in a splendid style by M. Becon at the King's expense. The following is its description, given by Charlevoix, in 1720, a few years afterwards ; " The Intendant*s house is called the Palace, because the Superior Council assembles in it. This is a large pavilion, the two extremities of which project some feet ; and to which you ascend by a double flight of stairs. The garden front which faces the little river, which is very nearly on a level with it, is much more agreeable than that by which you enter. The King's magazines face the court on the right side, and behind that is the prison. The gate by which you enter is hid by the mountain on which the Upper Town stands, and which on this side affords no prospect, except that of a steep rock, extremely disagreeable to the sight. It was still worse before the fire, which reduced some years ago this whole Palace to ashes ; it having at that time no outer court, and the buildings then facing the street which was very narrow. As you go along this street, or to speak more properly, this road, you come first of all into the country." The Intendant's Palace was neglected as a place of official residence after the conquest in 1759. In 1775, it was occupied by a detachment of the American invading army, and destroyed by the fire of the Garrison. The only remains at present are a private house, the gateway alluded to above, and several stores belonging to Government, formed by repairing some of the old French buildings. The whole is now known by the name of the King's wood- yard. l\ 250 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, THE BISHOP S PALACE. This IS one of the ancient buildings of Quebec, having been erected soon after the establishment of the See ; and possesses a degree of Jiistorical interest, standing on, probably, the first cleared land in this part of the continent. Nothing could be more beautiful than the site chosen. It is at the south-eastern extremity of the grand battery, be- tween it and the descent into the Lower Town by Mountain Street. It is believed that here was the first clearance made by Champlain, who commenced his labors at the end of St. George Street, near the stone store of tlie Ordnance department, and continu- ed them as far as the Recollet Convent anu the Place d'Armes, He built his first Fort nearly on the site of the Bishop's Palace. It was afterwards, as has been mentioned in another place, removed to a more commanding position, that of the Castle of St. Lewis. The Bishop's Palace commands an extensive prospect towards the north, with a delightful view of the basin, and of Pointe Levi. The garden was for- merly inclosed, reaching to the brow of the precipice called the Sault-au-MateloL It was divided from that of the Seminary by a wall, as at present ; and another wall ran along the ascent from the Lower Town. A gateway, which was nearly opposite the rear of Mr. Clouet's house, gave admittance to the Eveche, or the official residence of the Bishop, to which it has been customary to apply the title of Palace. It was originally intended that the Bishop's Pa- lace should make in figure an oblong square, the c, WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 251 s of Quebec, establishment e of liistorical ( first cleared Nothing could 1. It is at the d battery, be- ower Town by t here was the ^ho commenced street, near the Qt, and continu- it ana the Place arly on the site terwards, as has loved to a more Castle of St. Is an extensive lightful view of garden was for- lof the precipice Is divided from tt present ; and fom the Lower ■ly opposite the [mittance to the fhe Bishop, to dy the title of Bishop's Pa- ng square. the fourth side bounded by a wall fronting the ascent from Mountain Street. The Chapel, left centre, and one wing towards the south-west were, however, the only buildings that were finished. With the exception of the Chapel, which was lately pulled down to make way for the \oii\ev facade of the new House of As- sembly, these buildings remain as they were originally finished. They are of cut stone ; and although the Palace was little more than half executed on the original plan, it must have been, even so, an elegant, spacious and not unworthy residence for the Bishops OF New France. The first Prelates, however, do not appear to have made much use of this habitation. Bishop De Laval retired to the Seminary, and Bishop De St. Vallier to the General Hospital. In 1713, it was occupied by the Intendant, M. Begon, after the destruction of his house by fire. La Potherie, after giving an accurate descrip- tion of the Palace as it appeared then, says : " There are few Episcopal Palaces in France which would equal this in beauty, if it were finished. All the Cures from the country Parishes, who have business in the city, are here accommodated with lodgings, and generally dine with the Bishop, who is almost , constantly in the Refectory." Charlevoix mentions : " In the Episcopal Palace there is nothing finished [but the Chapel, and one half of the building project- led by the plan, according to which it is to be an oblong square. If ever completed, it will be a mag- nificent edifice. The garden extends to the brow of [the rock, and commands the prospect of all the road." When its present Constitution was given to this [Province, the Bishop's Palace was chosen as the jplace for the sittings of the Legislative Council ind Assembly. The Bishop received in lieu of it 252 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ■ ^n an annuity from the Imperial Government. TLe Chapel of the Palace was fitted up as a Chamber for the Provincial Assembly. It was sixty-five feet long by thirty-six wide, and in this building the Ses- sions continued to be held, until it was removed to make way for the new edifice. The Legislative Council Chamber is at present in that part of the Bishop's Palace which im- mediately adjoins the new building ; commanding from the windows in the rear one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The Chamber is fitted up in an appropriate manner. At the upper end is the Throne, from which His Excellency the Gover- nor-in-Chief addresses the two other branches of the Legislature, at the opening and close of tbe Session. It is of crimson and gold, surmounted by the Imperial Arms. On the right, is a full length picture of His Majesty George III., after Sir Joshua Reynolds : — on the left, one of His late Ma- jesty George IV., after Sir Thomas Lawrence, This building, together with the south-western wing, contains the Library. Speaker's Room, Committee Rooms, and Ofl&ces, belonging to the Legislative Council. In the vaulted rooms below, which are spa- cious and airy, receiving light from the east, are the offices of the Secretary of the Province. These formed once the Refectory of the Bishop's Palace, where the Prelate showed daily hospitality to the Cures^ who came to visit him from the country pa- rishes. The reader is referred to the Plate representing Prescott-Gate. On the right he will find a south view of the Bishop's Palace, which has remained in the same state, with the exception of the loop-holed wall in front, since its first erection. £C, ernment. The p as a Chamber s sixty-five feet uilding the Ses- vas removed to ber is at present ,ACE which im- ; commanding e most beautiful I fitted up in an ler end is the ^CY the GovER- ber branches of and close of the surmounted by !s a full length III., after Sir f His late Ma- mas Lawrence, b-western wing, )m, Committee le Legislative 7^ which are spa- he east, are the iviNCE. These shop's Palace, (spitality to the the country pa- ite representing will find a south has remained in f the loop-holed 0' TtT --1 % r-^. ^ ^. i "I MA ^, , P-- *'i ^ « ^''^B ^ rtil ' ' T^2iH u-^ ^* PI 1 < l*j.'H*'^ 1 f ■ ^^^^a I ^ \\t '-'' '^ -HM 1 :^ .'-'^^H 1 ''^' l^'"^ 1 1 himm K i" WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 253 THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE. The Plate on the opposite side represents the Parliament House, as finished, on the site of the Bishop's Palace. The centre and north-western wing are only completed, so that the whole build- ing, including the old part, now for the first time has assumed the figure intended at the original foundation. The union of the old and the new parts of this building, while it speaks by contrast the great advance of the Province in resources and population, forms an interesting: link between its ancient and modern history. The venerable Palace of the Bishops, neglected without, but useful and com- modious within, rears its modest front by the side of the massive, /flfacfe of its less unpretending, but more durable successor ; aff'ording a moral lesson of the rise and decay of buildings, of empires, of man him- self, and of the mutability of all sublunary affairs. It has been stated that the sittings of the Provin- cial Assembly were held in the Bishop's Chapel until 1834. It will be remembered, that the House OF Commons in England holds its sittings in what was once the small Chapel of St. Stephen, West- minster. The Bishop's Chapel stood upon the site of the central part of the new Parliament House, the fagade of which is imposing from its strength and loftiness, and from the dome and spire with which it is crowned. Four massive cut pillars support a pediment, within which will be contained the " Imperial Arms of Great Britain," as repre- sented in our Plate, taken from the original design with which we were favored. Within the fa(;ade is the new House of Assembly, a spacious Cham- Y 254 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, \ , ber, seventy-nine feet long by forty-six broad, and twenty-eight feet higli from floor to ceiling. The interior is not yet finished, but it will, no doubt, be worthy of the building and of the Province, From the dome there is a splendid view of the picturesque scenery around, which is gained by ascending a stair- case until the spectator reaches a small gallery on the outside, and encircling the dome, at the base of the lantern. The whole building is solid and sub- stantial, being of cut stone. The remaining apart- ments are all for the use of the Assembly. The Wardrobe and Library are large and in due propor- tion : the passages and staircases wide and well ven- tilated. Every care has, in truth, been taken to meet the convenience of the Members, and to expe- dite the business of the Province. The centre of the New Parliament House was designed by Mr. Berlinguet, the wings by Mr. Baillarge. The whole was built by Mr. Fortier, Master Mason ; and the sums voted by the Legislature to defray the expense amount to £16,000. It is to be hoped that no long time will elapse, ere the liberality of the Legislature shall have provided for the completion of the New Parliament House, as represented in the engraving. But in order that the building should be seen to advantage, it is highly necessary that the row of houses, which would seem to have intruded themselves between Freema- sons* Hall and the Seminary, should be removed by an Act of the Legislature, on a fair compensation. When these improvements are made, the Parlia- ment House will appear one of the finest buildings in North America. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 255 THE COURT HOUSE. It has been stated that tlie Court House ^ wU- pies part of the site once belongin^r to the llecollet Fathers, and forming the western side of th«^ ancient Place d'Armcs, immediately opposite to the Fort. The Court House stands at the angle of St. Lewis Street and the Place d^Armes, to the south of the Eng- lish Cathedral. Its front is on the north side of St. Lewis Street, looking towards the Commissariat Office across an open space, in which is a broad walk of stone flags. The edifice is built of grey stone, plain and substantial, standing within an area inclosed by an iron railing, and is one hundred and thirty-six feet long, by forty-four feet broad. The roof, like ti^at of most of the public buildings, is covered with tin. The approach from St. Lewis Street is by a dou- ble flight of stone steps, leading to an arcade, or ves- tibule ; from which are passages leading to the rooms below, and wide staircases to the Courts above. Im mediately in front of the lower story, and facing the arcade, is the chamber in which the Court of Quar- ter Sessions is held. On the right are the Policei Office, the Justices' Room, and Grand Jury Room. On the left, the Offices of the Prothonotary of the Court of King's Bench. On the upper floor is the Court of King's Bench, fitted up in an appropriate manner, with a gallery for spectators. Immediately behind the Bench, as in the Quarter Sessions' Room, are the Imperial Arms. To the left of the Court of King's Bench are the Judges' Chambers, and the Court of Appeals ; and on the right, the Vice-Admiralty Office, the Sherift''s Office, and the Advocate's Wardrobe. The Court of Vice-Ad- 256 NEW PICTURE OlP f;^UEBEC9 MiRALTY is generally held in the Quarter Sessions' Room. Ill the basement are kept the records of the Courts. Previous to the erection of the Court House, the Judges sat in the Jesuits' College. The Com- missioners appointed for the work, were the Honor- able Jonathan Sewell, now Chief Justice of the Province, John Mervin Nooth and Amable Berthelot Dartigny, Esquires. The Court House was finished in 1804, at an expense to the Province of £30,000. Though entirely void of orna- ment, it is, generally speaking, convenient, although the great encrease of the legal business of the Pro- vince seems to require greater accommodation as to space. the government offices. These Oflfices, several of which were formerly held in the lower apartments of the Bishop's Palace, and others in different parts of the Upper Town, arc now for the most part united in a large building, which stands on the north side of the Place d'Armes, and adds considerably to its general appearance. It is a well proportioned and strongly built stone house, three stories high, ^ighty-six feet in length, and forty- four in breadth. It was built in 1803, by a joint- stock company, incorporated by an Act of the Provincial Parliament ; and was originally design- ed for a grand hotel for the reception of stran- gers visiting Quebec, under the title of the Union Hotel. This spirited undertaking did not, how- ever, answer the expectations of the projectors ; and the property was subsequently offered at public WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 257 sale, and purchased by His Honor the Chief Jus- tice, who raised an additional story. It is rented from this gentleman by the Province, it having been found most convenient to concentrate the offices of Government as much as possible under one jof. The following offices are at present kept in this building : — The offices of the Civil Secretary of His Excellency the Governor-in- Chief. and of the Assistant Secretary : — Of the Executive Council, the Commissioner of Crown Lands, the Inspector General of Public Accounts, the Surveyor General, the Royal Institution, the Adjutant General of Militia, and the Hydrogra- phical Office, under the superintendence of Captain Bayfield, R. N. On the first floor, in front of the principal story, are the rooms occupied, with permission of the Go- vernment, by the Literary and Historical So- ciety of Quebec, founded, in 1824, by the Earl of Dalhousie, Governor-in-Chief, and incorporated in 1830. In the large room are their extensive collec- tions of mineralogical and other specimens, admira- bly arranged and scientifically classed. In the smaller one are held the meetings of the Society ; and here, during the winter, are delivered their lec- tures on classical and scientific subjects, ?. r. the jail. It has been mentioned that under the early French Government the public Prison was situated in rear of the old Palace of the Intend ant. Fifty years ago, the vacant apartments of the Recollet Con- vent were used as a place of temporary restraint for Y 2 258 NEW PICTURE OF QtJEBtC, prisoners, who had fallen under suspicion of treason- able practices ; but latterly, the common Jail was kept in part of the range of buildings which now adjoin the Artillery Barracks, at the east end. The present Jail was erected during the adminis- tration of Sir James Craig, and was first occupied in 1814. The cost, to the amount of £15000, was defrayed by a vote of the Legislature, It is one hundred and sixty feet in length, by sixty-eight feet in breadth. Behind it, in a separate building, is the House of Correction for females ; and between the two is the court yard of the male prison, in part of which the inmates are allowed to take exercise under certain regulations. The situation of the Jail is advantageous as to elevation and airiness, being at the top of St. Stanis- laus Street, in a line towards the north with the Scottish Church. There are, however, strong ob- jections to its position in the heart of a populous city. Its interior is under the best regulations, and is remarkable for cleanliness and general salubrity. For some years past an useful society of gentlemen, among whom are numbered the heads of the Clergy, have met, by permission of the Sheriff, in the Chapel of the Jail, once a week, where any prisoner may state any peculiar hardship that may attach to his case. It is called the " Quebec Jail Association," and its objects are to promote education, industry, and moral improvement among the prisoners. It is supported by donations and annual subscriptions. freemasons' hall. ' T) is building is immediately opposite to the Ge- neral Post Office, situated in Buade Street, near WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 259 reous as to the steps leading through Prescott-Gate, to the Lower-Town. The house formerly had an uninter- rupted view in front as far as the wall of the Seminary, the buildings which now intervene being of modern date. It is remarkable in the local history of the city, for a representation in stone over the entrance from Buade Street, of a dog gnawing a bone, with an inscription in French. This having been al- ways gilt, has acquired the name oi Le Chien d'Or ; and the following explanation of its origin has been handed down to the present day : — Mr. Philibert, who resided in this house, was a Merchant of high distinction during the time when M. Begon, whom we have mentioned above, was Intendant of New France. The latter had formerly been a merchant of Bordeaux ; and came to Quebec in 1712. Diflferences occurred between him and M. Phttjbert, over whom superior interest and power gave M. Begon every advantage. Unable to obtain redress for his injuries, real or supposed, M, Philibert bitterly, although covertly, expressed his sentiments under the image of the Chien d'Or, to which he added the following inscription in old French : I Je svis vn Cfhen qvi ronge l'os. En le rongeant je prend mon repos. Vn tems viendra. qvi nest pas venv * ' ' QvE je mordray qvi mavra aiordv. M. Begon determined on revenge, and M. Phili- bert, descending the Lower Town hill, received the sword of M. De R , a French Officer of the garrison, through his body. The perpetrator of this murder made his escape and left the Province ; but the crime was too atrocious to be forgiven. The bro- 260 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ■■^f ther of M. Philibert came to Quebec to settle the estate, with a full determination of taking personal vengeance on the assassin. So determined was he to execute this part of his mission, that having as- certained that M. De R had gone to the East Indies, he pursued him thither. They met in a street of Pondicherry — engaged on the spot — and the assassin fell mortally wounded under the sword of the avenger. The Chien d'Or remains to perpetuate this tale of bloodshed and retribution. MONTCALM HOUSE, A little to the west of Hope-Gate, within the Fortifications, and immediately adjoining the termi- nation of the garden wall of the Hotel Dieu, looking towards the north-east, stands the building once inhabited by the brave Marquis De Montcalm. It is now divided into three private residences. The entrance appears originally to have been through a court yard in the rear ; and as the walls of the build- ing next to the fortifications are very thick, and the foundations massive, it is very probable that it was once intended for defence on the side looking to the basin. It is at present no otherwise remarkable than as having been the residence of the French General, whose fame the battle of the Plains of Abraham has perpetuated in the same scroll with that of his suc- cessful and lamented antagonist. to settle the (ig personal led was he t having as- to the East ' met in a ot — and the lie sword of this tale of within the ^ the termi- eu, looking tiding once rcALM. It ices. The I through a f the build- ;k, and the that it was king to the le than as li General, )raham has of his suc- i.f. flC t5l 'f. r. '•^ to in WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 261 1 ^ 7 1 ;^ ■s ■-s- .t S THE MARINE HOSPITAL. This building, ot which, as it will appear when finished, a view is given on the other side, is situated not fur from the General Hospital, on the bank of the Little River St. Charles ; and nearly opposite to the spot where Jacques Cartieu first wintered in 1535. In 1831, it was resolved to erect an Hospital, out of the city, for the reception of sailors and persons coming by sea who might be afflicted with disease. Mr. H. M. Blaiklock, Architect and Civil Engineer, was appointed to prepare plans and estimates under the Commissioners, Messrs. Clouet, Cannon and Dr. Morrin, which plans were approved by the Gover- nor-in-Chief. The estimated cost was £'23,000, and the expenditure up to the present time has been £15,000, defrayed by different votes of the Legisla- ture. The Marine Hospital, when completed, will contain upon the ground or first story, Catholic and Protestant Chapels, with apartments for the officiat- ing Ministers : — Housekeeper's and Steward's apart- ments and store-rooms : — Nurses' apartments: — two large kitchens : — Wards for sixty patients, with Baths and all necessary conveniences. The prin- cipal story will contain a large entrance hall, ap- proached by a double flight of stone steps on the exterior : — a Museum, forty-five feet in length : — p.partments for the Medical Officers : — examining rooms : — operating theatres, and accommodations for sixty eight patients. The third story will have apartments for the chief Nurses, and wards for one hundred and forty patients. The upper story is 262 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, also planned as a Lying-in Hospital^ only, for thirty- four patients, and the attics will contain sixty, mak- ing a total of accommodation for three hundred and sixty-two persons. Each story is fitted up with hot, cold and vapor baths ; and each ward has from one to three ventilating flues to convey the foul air to the roof of the building by machinery. The water used is drawn from the River St. Charles, filtered, and conveyed to the top of the Hospital. In the basement story are extensive cellars, kitchens, laun- dry, and other domestic conveniences. The exterior of the Marine Hospital is of the Ionic order ; and the proportions are taken from the Temple of the Muses on the Ilissus near Athens. With the wings it measures two hundred and six feet from east to west. The wings are one hundred feet in depth ; and the whole premises contain an area of about six acres, to be laid out in gardens and pro- menade grounds for the convalescents. The ceremony of laying the first or centre stone took place amid a large concourse of respectable citi- zens on the anniversary of the King's birthday, 28th May, 1832, It was laid by His Excellency the Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-Chief, and a plate, commemorating the occasion, with the date, and name of the Architect, Mr. Blaiklock, and of the Commissioners, was deposited with the usual forms. The centre and west wing are completed, and the building was opened as an Hospital in July, 1834. chasseur's musseum. In St< Helen's Street, in the Upper Town, a few yards from St. Patrick's Church, is the residence of Mr. Chasseur, formerly Carver and Gilder ia WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 263 this city ; who with a love of science that cannot be too much applauded, commenced, in 1824, to employ his leisure in making a collection of the indigenous animals of Canada, chiefly, however, limited to birds and quadrupeds. His collection of birds amounts to about five hundred, among which several very curi- ous ornithological specimens will be found. His exertions have so far met with the approbation of the Legislature, that a few years ago a pecuniary aid was voted to this enterprising zoologist, who has cer- tainly made the best collection of natural curiosities extant in the Province. He intends to complete the Mus.^UM with an enlarged collection of all our native animals ; and is daily making progress in his lau- dable undertaking. In this Museum is to be seen the brass cannon, known as the Canon de bronze^ which was found a few years ago in the River St. Lawrence, nearly opposite the Pai.bh of Champlain. It is to be la- mented that there is upon it an inscription, errone- ously stating it to have been found at the River Jacques Cartier, and to have been once in the pos- session of the discoverer of New France, being thereby adduced as a proof that Jacques Cartier had been wrecked at the mouth of the River, which bears his name. This subject has been treated in pages thirty-one, and sixty-eight, of this work. I ' PLACES OF EDUCATION. Besides the Quebec Seminary tS; ae are the Grammar School of the Royal In r^UTioN, con- ducted by the Reverend R. Burrage : the Clas- sical School of the Reverend D. Wilkie : The 264 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, National School, already mentioned : the Scbool of the QuEBFX Education Society, and the British and Canadian School. The three last are chiefly elementary. There are also several private ?hools for both sexes, Sunday Schools, and the useful establishment of Infant Schools has lately been successfully introduced into this city. In the Esplanade, is the highly valuable establishment of Mr. McDonald for the instruction of deaf and dumb children. In the Parish of St. Roch there is also a School supported by the Roman Catholic Bishop ; and in the Suburbs of St. Lewis is the me- ritorious foundation of J. F. Perrault, Esquire, the venerable and consistent promoter of elementary in- struction in his native city. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 265 the School and the •ee last are ral private i, and the has lately y. In the isLment of ■ deaf and ich there is n Catholic i is the me- ^squire, the Qcntary in- CHAPTER THE THIRTEENTH. MONUMENT TO WOLFE AND MONTCALM — CEREMONY ON LAYING THE FIRST STONE — INSCRIPTIONS. That nearly seventy years should have elapsed, without this well merited tribute to the military vir- tue and devotion of these Heroes having been paid in the country of their fame, can only be attri- buted to the circumstances of a gradually rising Colony, whose attention to the Arts and to architec- tural embellishment could only be expected after years of prosperity, peace, and the accumulation of riches. Pericles, having enriched his country by years of prosperous administration, civil and mili- tary, betook himself to the embellishment of his na- tive city. Rome had been long victorious over every enemy, before her heroes and patriots had leisure from the camp to adorn the Forum with edifices, whose magnificent remains are the admiration of all beholders. The family De' Medici did not excel in the Arts, or contribute to the classic riches of Florence, until a long course of commercial enter- prise and success had elevated them from merchants to the rank of Princes. So it has been in all ages, that the Arts, as well as the Laws, have been silent during periods of war and commotion ; nor has their voice been listened to, except under circumstances when the human mind, withdrawn from the turmoil 266 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, of active collision, has sought repose in the charming studies which elegant ease alone enables men to pursue with steadiness and eftect. Amongst the people of the United States, it is only within a few years that any public tribute, or classic memorial, has testified the common admiration of the world directed towards the memory of Washington. The chisel of Canova, and the hand of Chantrey have still more recently been employed on national monuments to his honor. Indeed, there is some- what of morbid feeling in this propensity of mankind to neglect the offering of public tokens of gratitude to great men, during the age which witnessed their deeds, and benefitted most from their services. It is the consciousness of this fact, which has directed the views of illustrious men rather to the certainty of posthumous fame, than to the rewards of present celebrity and popular applause — ,:'H Sui memores alios fecere merendo. And this feeling is part of the divine inspiration, of that immortal breath, which more or less is the ani- mating principle of great souls ; — but which the grosser impressions of mankind, in the main envious and detracting, have derogated by calling it ambi- tion. Memorials, therefore, of a purely classical nature have generally been the works of posterity; and the experience of time demonstrates, that as there is nothing more honorable to the age whicli confers them, so there is nothing more lasting and perennial than the fame, which is handed down by such monuments. Well, indeed, did the Poet fed this truth, and it must be given in his own language to have its full effect, when he prophetically enunie- WITH HISTORICAL ilECOLLECTIONS. 267 rated, among the means of immortality to illustrious persons — INTISA NOTTS MARMORA IMJCI-ICIS, VER ur/K sriRiTi's i:t vita hkdit ijoms POST MORTEM UUl lUUS. It was reserved for the Earl of Dalhousie, then Goveunor-in-Chief of these Provinces, — a noble- man whose generous spirit and munificent patronage had already been evinced in the foundation of the Literary and Historical Society — to bring this inte- resting subject before the public, and set the exam- ple in raising a fit monument to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm in the Metropc lis of British North America, the stake for which these gallant soldiers contended. A subscription list for the pur- pose was accordingly circulated among the gentry of Quebec, under the auspices of His Excellency ;' and the call for so laudable an object was promptly responded to. Not only the inhabitants of British origin, but the Canadian public, headed by the Ro- man Catholic Bishop and several of the Clergy, hberally contributed to the erection of this Monu- ment. This praiseworthy design was not improbably suggested to the mind of the Earl of Dalhousie, by a perusal of the letter of Monsieur De Bougain- ville to the great Earl of Chatham, then Secretary of State, inclosing a copy of an inscription for an intended Monument to be erected at Quebec to the memory of Montcalm by the French Government. The answer of Lord Chatham, speaking no doubt the sentiments of the youthful Monarch, was con • ceived in the most generous spirit. The marble slab with the inscription was engraved, and shipped 268 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, for Canada ; but the vessel never reached her des- tination. A general meeting of the subscribers to the in- tended Monument was held at the Castle of St. Lewis on the 1st November, 1827, His Excellency the Earl of Dalhousie in the chair, who address- ed the meeting in a speech, of which the following is an extract : — iji Iff -r- -^ " Gentlemen, I feel it peculiarly my duty to address this meeting lo-day, as having taken the lead in proposing for consideration a subject chiefly interesting to the public in and near Quebec. " When I first notified the proposal of raising a monument to the memory of Generals Wolfe and Montcalm, I did net presume to offer any advice, no* did 1 urge feelings that had prompted to my own mind the undertaking of s^'''" a work — these I was sure would come far better at a Ueneral Meeting from individuals infinitely better qualified than I am ; and it is therefore my principal object in calling this meeting to-day, to hear the opinions and suggestions of all who may be dis- posed to express them. " In the first place, however, 1 beg permission to present to you two drawings, or designs, which are the performance and composition of Capt. Young, of the 79th Regiment. I think, I may take the liberty with hira to say, that these are produced from repeated conversations he and 1 had on this subject, during our daily walks last winter : they are subject to revisat, to alteration, and even to a total abandonment of them for others, if other suggestions shall be made, or larger means than we have calculated upon shall be found. But on this point, I would particularly impress upon your considera- tion, that I do not propose any splendid trophy equal to the great names, the subject of it. A monument worthy of Ge- neral Wolfe, and worthy of England, has been placed in Westminster Abbey. My only object is to remove a subject of general regret, * that in Quebec, nothing is found to honor the memory of WolfEj nothing more than if his great achieve- ments had been effected in other countries distant or unknown to us.' — Thus limiting oui views, I think a plain Column, simple and unpretending in its architecture, the most fit, and WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 2G9 led her des- the least obnoxious to public criticism ; I think it the most becoming a private subscription, and above all, most liUely to be immed'ately accomplished — these desig-ns, however, are now submitted to you. " 1 ouffht, here, to state, that a most handsome offer has been made at New York, to contribute to the subscription list; and although it had not been intended to pco beyond the limits of Canada on the subject, yet I have accepted the oflfer as the expression of these liberal feelings. •* There remains only one point more for me to remark upon, but it is one which I feel as peculiarly callinff for an explana- tion. It is the idea^ that it may, by some, be thought groat presumption in any individual to stir and act upon a matter of such high public interest as this is, without having previously shown that the public, (I mean the Legislature of this Pro- vince) has not chosen to undertake the work ; to this. Gen- tlemen, I have only to say, that it is my intention to submit the subject, and also our progress in it, to the consideration of the Legislature ; but \ would also prepare the means of work- ing upon the smaller funds, should my public recommendation of it fail on the greater scale. " X shall, by and by, beg leave to propose a small Committee of Management in all minor details, but always with the idea of renewing ray calls for General Meetings, as our progress shall advance. " i now leave the subject. Gentlemen, to yourselves." His Excellency then named the following Committee ; The Honorable the Chief Justice, — Chairman, Mr. Justice Taschereau, Major General Darling, Lieut. Colonel Cockburn, R. A. Capt. Young, 79th Highlanders, Capt. Melhuish, R. E, Mr. George Pemberton. On Thursday, the 15th November, 1827, the very imposing and interesting ceremony, of laying the first stone of the Monument, took place in the pre- sence of a large and most respectable assemblage of spectators. The troops of the garrison, consisting of the 66th and 79th Regiments, under the com- mand of Colonel Nicol, 66th Regiment, paraded z 2 270 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, \ I at eleven o'clock, and formed a double line, facing inwards, their right reaching to the foot of the Glacis, and the left resting upon the Castle Guard-House. The Masonic procession, with Claude Denechau, Esquire, Right Worshipful Grand Master, at their head, the Officers composing the Grand Lodge in full Masonic costume, the Merchants and I'reres du Canada, the Sussex and St. Andrew's Lodges, reach- ed the Castle of St. Lewis, preceded by the Band of the 66th Regiment ; and entering the lower garden through the Castle yard, lined each side of the prin- cipal walk, through which the Countess of Dal- HousiE, and a party of ladies, reached the spot where the ceremony was to be performed. In the mean time His Excellency the Earl of Dal- HousiE, attended by the Chief Justice, the Lord Bishop, his Staff, and the Committee, passed through the avenue of troops from the Castle, receiving the usual honors. His Excellency, having first con- ducted the Countess, and the other ladies, to a sta- tion most convenient for witnessing the ceremony, placed himself in front of the stone, and in a clear and audible voice, snoke as follows : — " Gentlemen of the Committee, we are assembled upon an occasion most interesting" to this country — if possible more so to this city — We are met to lay the Foundation of a Column in honor of two illustrious men, whose deeds and whose fall have immortalized their own names, and placed Quebec in the rank of cities famous in the history of the world. " Before, however, we touch the first stone, let us implore the blessing of Almighty God upon our intended work." The Rev. Dr. Mills, Chaplain to the Forces, then offered up the following PRAYER. O Almighty Lord of Heaven and Earth I without whose blessing no w ork of man caa prosper, look down, we beseech we are i WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 271 Thee, with an eye of favor upon this our undertaking'. We kuovv, O Lord ! that, unless Thou buildest the fabric, their labour is but lost that build it; and therefore we humbly pray, that this Column, which we are about to erect in honor of those distinguished Warriors, whose names it is destined to bear, may transmit their Fame to distant ages, uninjured by flood or by flame, unscathed by the Thunder's rending- bolt, or the mining shock of the Earthquake. May no assault of fo- reign foe, no dangerous division withiii our walls, loosen one stone from the structure ; but may it long — long rear its head iu simple majesty, the bri-jhtest gem and ornament of our city. It hath pleased Thee, O Lord ! in thy good Providence, in a great degree to tranquillize the world : there h a great calm in the Universe: Thou hast said to the desolating tide of hu- man Warfare — " Peace, be still ; hitherto shalt thou come, but no further, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed !" We pray, O Lord ! — most humbly and Heartily do we pray, — that this happy state of things may continue and abound more and more, till every source of discord dried up — every jarring interest harmonized — the heavenly influence of the glorious Gospel — that Charter of Love and Mercy to the whole human race — be universally felt and acknowledged ; till the glad strain of " Peace on earth, good will toward men," which ushered in the Nativity of the Saviour, find a ready echo iu every bosom ; and the blessed time at length arrive, when the sword shall be turned into theplough-sharo, and the spear into the pruning-hook — when nation shall not lift up sword against nation, neither shall they learn war any more. But of this hour, — now seen afar off only in indistinct vision, knoweth no man : in the mean time, O Lord I the wrath of man shall praise Thee, while the remainder of wrath it is — and will be — thy province to restrain. * Meanwhile also, O Lord ! we umbly hope and trusl, that we are not forbidden to pray, even amidst all the pomp and g^iitter of military parade, by which we are surrounded, in be- half of these our Brethren — with an anxious concern for their honor as Soldiers, while we feel for their salvation as Men — that the great examples of the illustrious dead, whom we this day hold out as patterns for their imitation, may now and ever be regarded by them with an ardent desire to emulate their worth. Yes ! Soldiers, Friends and Brethren ! we implore the God of Armies, that should the battle once more bi '\et in array against you, you may — each of you — buckle on your bar- 272 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ness, in humble — yet well-nfrounded — confidence in the Divine protection — with no terrers of an evil conscience to appal you m the hour of peril — no besettinfj sin to unnerve your arm, and render it powerless in the conllict. Thus prepared — thus strenifthened with mi9^' m.\ i-i •jru. i J.Vv- i = J vO ; i . I < ) ^ WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 279 The Monument presents the foUowing^ inscription on the Sarcophagus, or Cenotaph of the heroes. On the front, in large letters : • ■ - .. / *w. r ^ ^ MORTEM. VIRTVS. COMMVNEM. FAxMAM. HISTORIA. MONVMENTVM. POSTERITAS. > ; ,; , DEDIT. -. at/* u This inscription was honored with the prize Medal, and was written by J. Charlton Fisher, L. L. D. On the rear is the following, altered from that which was inscribed upon the Plate deposited with the foundation stone : ■m m n 4 i HUJUSCE MONUMENTI IN VIRORUM ILLUSTRIUM MEMORIAM, WOLFE ET MONTCALM, FUNDAMENTUM P. C. GEORGIUS COMES DE BALHOUSIE ; IN SEPTENTRIONALIS AMERICiE PARTIBUS /•' 4 AD BRITANNOS PERTINENTIBUS SUMMAM RERUM ADMINISTRANS ; OPUS PER MULTOS ANNOS PR;ETERMISSUM, QUID DUCI EGREGIO CONVENIENTIUS ? AUCTORITATE PROMOVENS, EXEMPLO STIMULANS, MUNIFICENTIA FOVENS. A. S. MDCCCXXVII. GEORGIO IV. BRITANNIARUM REGE. ax/ On the north side of the Sarcophagus, looking to the country, is the simple word " Montcalm," in large characters ; and on the opposite side, that towards the River by which he reached the scene of his glorious victory and death, is inscribed the name of " Wolfe." 280 KEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I X » • t I The following lines were written on the occasion of laying the first stone of the Monument : the Latin tetrastick by the author of the prize incription, and the English ode by an officer of the 66th Regiment : WOLFE— MONTCALM. IIAVD ACIE8 EADEM — AST EADEM FATALI8 ARENA — COMMVNIS VIRTVS— ATQVE PER»^NNE DECVS — VICTRIX CAVSA PARKM MERITIS ET VICTA FAV0RE3I VINDJCAT — STERNUM VIVERE FAMA DEDIT, I , ill STANZAS Addressed to His Excellency the Earl op Dalhousie. Shall thousand Cenotaphs proclaim On battle lields each »lorious name, And on this hallowed spot — These smilinsf Banks his valor gain*d, Those frowninv Hei«fhts his blood hath stained, Is only Wolfe's forg t ? Deeply each British heart hath mourn'd His dust nor trophicd, nor inurn'd, Unnoticed and unknown — Be THINE the stain to wash away, Be THINE thy Country's debt to pay. And for the wrong atone. And thou, brave Veteran, on whose breast • : Wolfe, dirg'd by Victory, sank to rest, Come consecrate the Pile ! — , Virtue and Valor have agreed, The Christian Priests shall bless the deed. And Heaven above shall smile. I ! WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 281 Dalhousie. Having" replied to the somewhat illiberal censure of the author of " Men and Manners in America,'* we must now advert, as connected with the too hasty impressions and frequently erroneous conclusions of travellers, to a statement contained in a recent pub- lication, intituled, " Transatlantic Sketches" by Cap- tain Alexander, 42d Royal Highlanders, F. R. G. S. and M. R. A. S. It is known to all residents in Quebec, that at the corner of St. John and Palace Streets, there is a public house, yclept " General Wolfe's Hotel ;" and that in a niche at the angle of the wall, there has long been a diminutive statue, of painted wood, said to be of that hero. Captain Alexander thus gravely introduces it to his readers : " I promenaded about the city, and had pointed out to me the various objects of interest, particularly the small statue of Wolfe, in a red coat, cocked hat and knee breeches, set up in a corner of a street, to mark the spot to which the conqueror of Quebec pene- trated as a spy previous to his victory !" It is certainly true that this statue was set up in honor of Wolfe, after the conquest, by an individual of more patriotism than taste ; but the tale of his having* penetrated into St. John Street as a spy is in itself so very improbable, and is besides so completely negatived by the well known facts of his attack upon the city, that it is really surprising how a traveller of any reputation could have been so far imposed upon as to record a story which his own historical infor- mation ought to have warned him to reject. ■vi i- , {.1 • % { . . /.i.O ' Jill ./..■. fir:." ' > f I i 2 A3 !I82 NEW JPICTURE OF QUEBEC, ii, mi CHAPTER THE FOURTEENTH. THE LOWER TOWN — EARLIEST NOTICE OF IT — ITS TRADE, AND MANNERS IN 1700 DESCRIPTION IN 1720 PRESENT STATE AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS. It has been stated that the Lower Town of Quebec is built principally upon ground either gained by excavation from the rock on which the Upper Town stands, or, in the course of time, redeemed from the water's edge. As the early inhabitants had recourse to neither of these expedients, the site of their build- ings in the Lower Town must have been very confined. Before the establishment of the Royal Government in 1663, a few scattered houses, maga- zines and stores, occupied all the River side, from the foot of the Sault-au-Matelot to the base of Cape Diamond. The oldest account of the Lower Town is to be found in the Latin work of Father Du Creux, who came to New France about 1625, and whose book is dated in 1664. He says : — " Below the Citadel, from the Sault-au-Mateiot to Cape Dia- mond, there is a level space, convenient for landing merchandise, and the cargoes of vessels. This, if protected by a wall of masonry, would be evidently well adapted for a harbor, since the road is every way proper for ships, the force of the waves being broken by the interposition of the Isle of Orleans. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 283 On this level space are the magazines of the French merchants: at some distance apart, the store-houses of some distinguished French gentlemen ; and, now and then, some habitations of Frenchmen, who have exchanged Oki for New France." In the Voyage de VAmerique of La Potherie, who visited the Province in 1698, there is an ep*- graved representation of the Upper and Lower Town. From this it appears that the River then washed the foot of the cliff along St. Paul Street ; and very few houses are seen from the Point to the centre of Sault-au-Matelot Street. The greater number are in the vicinity of the Place de Notre Dame, or Lower Town Market-place, where they were rather thickly clustered. Soua le Fort Street is plainly delineated, as well as the Queen's Wharf, which was then a platform planted with trees, where there was a battery level with the water. Towards the west, the buildings extended but a little way beyond the King's Wharf. TRADE OF QUEBEC IN 1700. ' .' ' As an interesting recollection in the present ad- vanced condition of Colonial trade, — now that the commercial character of the British population is fully developed, — we shall give an account of the early trt ffic of the Lower Town, on the authority of La Potherie. The houses, in which the merchants hved for the convenience of business, were well built, and of cut stone. All persons, except the Clergy, and some of the Officers, Civil and Military, were engaged in commerce, the revenues of their lands being: insufficient to maintain their families : and the country being in too rude a state to supply I 284 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, III ill ' ! I I all the conveniences of life. The principal trade was in peltry, which chiefly consisted of the produce of the beaver. Those who were fortunate enough to take these valuable animals, carried them to the Farmer's Office, Bureau de la Ferme, the Director of which paid for them in Bills of Exchange on Fiance. In 1700, these Bills amounted to three hundred and thirty thousand livres. The trade in merchandise was by no means considerable ; and was only profitable to a few foreign merchants who brought with them, or every year imported from France, goods to the amount of seven or eight thou- sand Jrancs. Some few imported to the amount of twenty thousand ; but they found it difficult to obtain a sale during that year. Greater sales were made of wine and brandy, than of any other commodity. The period of most active business at Quebec, in the olden time, was during the months of August, September and October, in which the vessels arrived from France ; so that at that time, one passage out- ward and inward was all they were able to accomp- lish. After the arrival of the vessels, there was a kind of fair in the Lower Town — every shop and store displayed newly imported treasures — and no- thing was heard in the streets but the buz of the shopkeepers recommending their wares, and of cus- tomers endeavoring to make the best bargains they could. About the end of October, the Hahitans came in from the country to make purchases. Every one endeavored to arrange his business before the departure of the vessels ; as the Captains natur- ally took advantage of the fine weather, fearful of a gale from the north-east, which generally came a few days before or after Allsaints* day. They con- sidered that by postponing their departure until WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 285 November, they ran some risk of meeting with ice in the River. From this reasofiing of the shipmas- ters of that day, it would appear that there has been no change in the climate for the last century, since the Captains at present always hurry their departure after the 10th November ; and various proofs might be adduced from the old writers to show that it was quite as mild, and the spring as early, in the time of Champlain as at present. La Potherie remarks the change in the appear- ance of the Lower Town after the departure of the shipping : " The road," he says, " which is all at once left without craft has somewhat of a melancholy appearance. All is still, and we are left in the situ- ation of ants, having nothing to do but to lay in our provisions for the winter, which is very long." MANNER OF PASSING THE WINTER IN 1700. CLIMATE, About the end of September they began their pre- parations by preserving vegetables for their soup. Other vesretables and sallads were arranged in their cellars, which appeared like so many kitchen gar- dens. Every one, according to his means, provided himself with butchers' meat, poultry and game ; which when frozen they preserved all the winter. The snow fell in quantities about the middle of No- vember — all trade was at an end, and the greatest part of the shops were closed. While the snow continu- ed to fall, people remained at home. La Potherie adds, as it were in their dens ; but it was widely different when it became hard on the surface. Then every body was in motion, carioles began to !|»1 286 i iji' 1 ii t;l' IPJI w mi NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, run, vehicles which were found extremely commo- dious, and which are described exactly as they are used at present. They were then, perhaps, hand- somer than now, being adorned with paintings and armorial bearings. Advent was passed with all the observances of religion. On New Year's day, they interchanged visits of friendship and congratulation, as at present. The visiting season, however, than extended to eight days, during which time every one was in motion, and nothing v/as seen but gentlemen on foot and in carioles running from house to house. As there was no business to do, this was by no means a dis- agreeable method of killing a week during a long winter — now, it would be found diificult to devote so long a period even to so pleasant an employment. Until Lent, the time was passed agreeably enough. Joy and pleasure held undisputed reign : handsome entertainments were given : some there were so aristocratic and exclusive, that persons were only invited who were unexceptionable as to haut ton. People were entertained on other days according to their rank in life : one day. Officers of Government and their Ladies — on another. Councillors and their wives — on a third, the citizens generally. The wo- men of the tiers etat in those days are represented very favorably, and as far superior to persons of the same condition in the Provinces of Old France, and even in Paris itself. La Potherie says, they spoke perfectly well, and with good accent. They had no dialect, which indeed is generally lost in a Colony. They had wit, delicacy, good voices, and loved dancing to excess. They were naturally prudent, and little addicted to trifling — so that when- cessive, i i! I WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 287 ever they admitted the addresses of a lover, it was sure to end in marriage. Lent was found a season the most tedious and diffi- cult to pass of any part of the year, the climate dur- ing the months of February and March beings the most severe of the winter. The cold was then exces- sive, but the weather nevertheless fine, and the sky clear : a Canadian winter possesses indeed this dis- tinction, that there is very little fog-gy weather, so that every one preserved their health. People got accustomed to the cold as to every thing else, and without wearing too many clothes, the men weni; for the most part with their coatS open. When there was only two feet of i:;now upon the ground they called it a very mild winter ; but it was generally five or six feet deep, especially in the woods. The long duration of the snow rendered it im- possible to commence the sowing of grain before May ; but the harvest was nevertheless gathered in during the months of August and September. This abundance of snow was like manure, enriching and warming the soil. If the winters were cold, the sum- mers, which in pointof fact were only June and July, were not less insupportable. The heat was tl en ex- cessive, more so than in the West Indies. Like the cold, it came on without preparation, as it were tout a coup. No spring was felt bringing on the warm season by imperceptible gradations : the thaw came without being remarked, and there were no de- luges of rain as at Paris. Hard frost was some- times known in the mornings of August ; but it used to pass away and the warm days to return. Thun- der was frequent in summer : it had a dull and hollow sound, and generally fell whenever it was heard. Unlike the thunder in the West Indies, it occurs in irrTTT fill 11 > 11 ll ' i| li ! \^i I 288 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, Canada in extremely close weather, when there is not a breadth of air* It is then that the heat is in- tolerable, and a coid, or rather a hoarseness is to be guarded against. DESCRIPTION IN 1720. Charlevoix, speaking of the harbor, observes, that "there is no other citv besides this in the known world, that can boast of a fresh water harbor one hundred and twenty leagues from the sea, and that capable of containing an hundred ships of the line. It certainly stands upon the most navigable river in the universe." The following is his description of the Lower Town : " When Champlain founded this city in 1608, the tide usually rose to the foot of the rock. Since that time the river has retired by little and little, and has at last left dry a large piece of ground, on which the Lower Town has since been built, and which is now sufficiently elevated above the water's edge, to secure the inhabitants against the inunda- tion of the river. The first thing you meet with, on landing, is a pretty large square, and of irregular form, having in front a row of well built houses, the back part of which leans against the rock, so that they have no great depth. These form a street of considerable length, occupying the whole breadth of the square, and extending on the right and left as far as the two ways which lead to the Upper Town. The square is bounded towards the left by a small Church, and towards the right by t^o rows of houses placed in a parallel direction. There is also another street on the other side between the Church and the harbor, and at the turning of the river under Cape Diamond, there is likewise anotlier pretty long flight of hous Meres. enough tween t to the been i is impo ^oing been m tie, anc where Upper another River t notice 3 mer of being e This rect, an alterati< bered tl Palace fence ; as is sh been fa that thi was mi Fort. Ctd'de- Printin LowEB The ot quentl) in Qui in his when there is the heat is in- seness is to be , observes, that 3 known world, r one hundred that capable of >. It certainly the universe." f the Lower ?d this city in ot of the rock, by little and iece of ground, »een built, and ve the water's t the i nun da- meet with, on of irregular ilt houses, the rock, so that •rm a street of ole breadth of it and left as Upper Town, eft by a small ows of houses is also another hurch and the • under Cape tty Ion g fliglit WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 289 of houses on the banks of a creek called L^Anse des Meres, This quarter may be reckoned properly enough a sort of Suburb to the Lower Town. Be- tween this Suburb and the great street, you go up to the higher town by so steep an ascent, that it has been found necessary to cut it into steps. Thus it is impossible to ascend it, except on foot. But iu going from the square towards the right, a way has been made, the declivity of which is much more gen- tle, and which is lined with houses. At the place where these two ways meet begins that part of the Upper Town which faces the River, there being another Lower Town on the side towards the Little River St. Charles. The first building worthy of notice you meet with on your right hand in the for- mer of those sides, is the Bishop's Palace ; the left being entirely occupied with private houses." This topography of Charlevoix is perfectly cor- rect, and intelligible at the present day, very little alteration having taken place. It will be remem- bered that there was then no Gate near the Bishop's Palace — a simple barrier of pickets was all the de- fence ; and so it remained at the capture in 1759, as is shown by an ancient print with which we have been favored. It has been noticed in a former place, that the path, afterwards called Mountain Street, was made by Champlain after building the first Fort. It is most probable that the descent into the Cid-de-Sac, by the steps opposite to Mr. Neilson's Printing O^ce, was the most ancient way to the Lower Town, and was the one made by Champlain. The other descent for carriages was made subse- quently, and is spoken of by Le Beau, who was in Quebec nine years after Charlevoix, as being in his time extremely difficult for carriages. It 2 B ■^' II! I! H ! /^ III I !i 111 200 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ff^r was so, indeed, until macadamized a few years ago ; and even now it is very steep. ' Until the year 1682, the houses in the Lower Town were of v/ood. On the 5th August, in that year, a fire took place which consumed the whole of the buildings, except one house. All the merchan- dise in the stores, which were full, was destroyed ; and as expressed in our French manuscript, " they lost that night more valuables than all Canada at present possesses." The house which escaped the flames belonged to M. Aubert De Lachenaye. He was a rich and generous merchant, and liberally assisted his countrymen with his power and means in rebuilding their houses. He lent his money so freely that there was scarcely a house in the Lower Town which was not mortgaged to him ; and this he did for no sordid purpose, but for the good of the Colony, and of his fellow citizens. . The Lower Town, as might be expected, suffer- ed greatly from the fire of the British batteries in 1759, We have seen an old print representing the state of the Place de 2^otre Dame^ or Lower Town Market Place, drawn upon the spot, in 1761. The Church was entirely destroyed, nothing remaining but the walls very much shattered. The houses in Notre Dawe Street, and on the opposite side of the square, appear untenanted, many of them roofless, and all in the vicinity more or less injured. The size and height of the houses are the same as they are now : that on the south-west angle of the square appears exactly as at present. This print is inte- resting, as showing the substantial and convenient manner in which the best houses in the Lower Town had been rebuilt, after the great fire mentioned above, in 1682. In point of appearance they were little a !!!i! !w years ago ; n the Lower ugust, in that . the whole of the merchan- s destroyed ; script, " they all Canada at 1 escaped the Lachenaye. and liberally r and means lis money so in the Lower im ; and this the good of )ected, sufFer- h batteries in resenting the Lower Town I 176L The ng remaining he houses in te side of the hem roofless, njured. The same as they of the square print is inte- id convenient Lower Town itioned above, y were little s I } I ;■ 1 li! • 1' i-1 S^K i inferior ny, no i repairei PI The ther wii describe base, th ing the those R includes cliff, fro St. Lau on the K wood- houses are also Owin trade of are ext€ structec in the But alt been m dation, for the houses to be k siness, urgenc] year ab and this n — m-ll : .!- (, 1^ 1 A' ■ 1 ■; k „ ■<■■■ ,'fs¥- il w. 1, 'w '^ ^^ f: m .r H4 K WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 291 inferior to the buildings at present on the site : ma- ny, no doubt, are the same, havino^ been substantially repaired after the cession of the Province. PRESENT STATE AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The Upper and Lower Towns of Quebec, toge- ther with the Suburbs, occupy a site which may be described as a triangle, the J3anlieu line being the base, the Rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles form- ing the sides, and the Point, at the confluence of those Rivers, being the apex. The Lower Town includes all the extent of buildings underneath the cliff, from the spot where the Banlieu line strikes the St. Lawrence on the south, to the King's wood-yard on the St. Charles, towards the north. Beyond the wood-yard is the populous Suburb of St. Roch. The houses in Mountain Street below Prescott-Gate are also in the Lower Town. Owing to the great increase of late years in the trade of the Province, several new wharfs, on which are extensive storehouses, have recently been con- structed on lots redeemed from the water, particularly in the neighborhood of the Quebec Exchange. But although very considerable improvements have been made in the extent of its mercantile accommo- dation, the Lower Town is still too much confined for the convenience of the trade. Several counting houses and mercantile establishments are still obliged to be kept at such a distance from the centre of bu- siness, as to be extremely inconvenient during the urgency of the navigable season. During the last year above one thousand vessels arrived in this port, and this season the number will probably be as great. 292 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, m ■1;, ( 1 ' ' J ' II I One consequence has been, a very great influx of emi- grants from the mother country, who arrive in vessels engaged in the timber trade ; and who during their stay in the harbor, and in their transit through the Province, expend in the aggregate a very large sum of ready money, out of the capital which they brin^ with them for agricultural and other purposes. It is to be hoped that these Provinces will long continue to be annually enriched by the immigration of an indus- trious and moral population from the mother country. In noticing the subject of immigration, it would be unpardonable to omit the conveniences afforded to settlers and travellers by the numerous steam-boats on the St. Lawrence, originally established by the enterprise of the Honorable John Molson, of Mont- real. Their safety, speed, and general excellence are universally acknowledged by the numerous stran- gers who visit this Metropolis. THE QUEBEC EXCHANGE. As a building devoted to general mercantile pur- poses, this institution demands particular attention. The first institution of this description in Quebec is dated in 1817. It was established in a house at the south end of St. Peter Street, whence it was removed, in 1822, to a handsome room in the new building erected by the Fire Assurance Company. An annually encreasing subscription list led eventually to the erection of the present commodious edifice of cut stone. The ground on which it stands, a water lot, was purchased in June, 1828, and contains ten thousand superficial feet. The Honorable Matthew Bell, from whom the site was purchased, gave, in the mo the und his don; public truly c( public, to erecl rable, a ing roo necessa laid wit 1828. The Street ; tations Act of The an Exc gate ■' J busines Readi: sixteen a comp part is but by prietors Libra] on the story. The was mj ligence for sev He fell hours i WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 293 ifliix of emi- ve in vessels (luring their through the y large sum \\ they briii^ OSes. It is to )ntinue tobe )f an indus- her country, it would be ', afforded to steam-boats shed by the N, of MONT- il excellence lerous stran- rcantile pur- ar attention, n Quebec is house at the ivas removed, lew building MPANY. An d eventually 3US edifice of inds, a water contains ten le Matthew ed, gave, in the most handsome manner, as his subscription to the undertaking, a fifth part of the purchase money, his donation amounting to two hundred pounds. The public spirit of the projectors of this undertaking was truly commendable, and liberally supported by the public. One thousand pounds was soon «ubscribed to erect the building, and the income b' conside- rable, arising from annual subscription. Jie read- ing room, no difficulty was found in raising the funds necessary for its completion. The first stone was laid with Masonic ceremonies on the 6th September, 1828. The edifice is situated at the east end of St. Paul Street ; and has answered the most sanguine expec- tations of the Proprietors, who were incorporated by Act of the Provincial Parliament in 1830. The lower part, or ground floor, was intended for an Exchange, " where mei chants most do congre- gate ' and make engagements for the transaction of business. The centre story contains the excellent Reading Room, fifty feet long, thirty broad, and sixteen in height ; the windows of which command a complete view of the basin and river. The upper part is occupied at present by the Board of Trade ; but by an arrangement between the respective pro- prietors, it is generally understood that the Quebec Library will be removed from its present situation on the 1st May next, to a spacious room on that story. The excellent arrangement of the Reading Room was mainly owing to the ability, zeal, and intel- ligence of the late Mr. Henry Thompson, who had for several years been the Keeper of the Exchange. He fell a victim to the Asiatic Cholera, after a few hours illness, in July, 1834, greatly esteemed and 2b 3 m III II '-'i m '"■■'II 1 iiiiini- 294 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, ill iflii iiii. iiiiii lamented by all wlio knew him. The establishment is at present under the judicious management of Mr. R. Roberts, late merchant of this city. THE TRINITY HOUSE. This is a corporate establishment for the due re- gulation of the Pilots who ply in the River St. Lawrence, and for their charitable support after they are disabled by age, accident, or infirmity. There is also a fund for the relief of their widows and chil- dren. It is governed by a Master, Deputy Master, and Wardens, who are generally Merchants of Que- bec. The business of the Corporation is transacted in a house in St. Peter Street, not far from the Quebec Exchange. This establishment was no doubt founded in imitation of similar institutions in England. In the reign of Henry VIII., certain officers were incor- porated by the name of Master and Wardens of the Holy Trinity : *' they were to take care of the building, seeping and conducting of the Royal Navy." This Corporation had a foundation at Dept- roRD, in Kent, containing fifty-nine houses for de- cayed Pilots and Masters of Ships, or the widows of such; and the men were allowed twenty, and the women sixteen shillings per month. There is also a noble establishment of this kind at Hull, in York- shire, THE BANKS— fire ASSURANCE COMPANY. The Quebec Bank occupies the lower story of the handsome stone edifice built by the Quebec WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 295 Fire Assurance Company, fronting in St. Peter Street. It was incorporated in 1822, and is a Joint Stock Company. The Quebec Fire Assurance Company's Office is on the second story of the building. This is also a corporation. Above is the Quebec Library, a large and vaiuable collection of books amounting to upwards of six thousand. The property is vested in Trustees, elected annually by the proprietors, and persons are also received as yearly subscribers. This Library was founded in the year 1779, during the administration of His Excellency General Haldimand, who liberally contributed one hundred volumes of valuable works towards its formation. The Office for Discount and Deposit for the Montreal Bank, which is a branch of the parent Bank in that city, is situated at the corner of St. Peter Street and St. James's Street, not far from the Ex- change. It was also incorporated in 1822, and is a Joint Stock Company. king's wharf and custom house. OMPANY. The King's Wharf has already been mentioned as appropriated to the purposes of Government ; and as having upon it the extensive stores belonging to the Commissariat Department. Here is a battery level with the water ; and the wharf itself is the place of embarkation and landing of the King's troops, for the Governors, and Officers of the Navy and Army. Immediately adjoining, on the west, is the New Custom House, which has so far been lately com- pleted. It is a plain stone edifice, well and substan- i'lli! ii. 296 ! !! I III ' III iP i 1 I l" ' i III NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, tially built. The interior is well adapted for the convenience of business, and the long room has been generally admired. Very nearly opposite to the Custom House there stood anciently a barrier, where the two w^ys diverge, one to the steps leading to the Upper Town, and the other to the harbor. It was near this spot that the American General Montgomery, and other officers, were killed by the discharge of a cannon, in his daring attack upon the Lower Town, on the last day of December, 1775. At some distance beyond this remarkable spot, at the foot of Cape Diamond, is the inclined plane from the Citadel, which has been previously men- tioned ; and further still is Y/olfe's Cove, where that intrepid leader performed his extraordinary ex- ploit, and to the astonishment of the French, suc- ceeded in ascending the cliff, and in forming Lis army in battle array on the Plains of Abraham. Among the recent improvements in the Lower Town, a spacious market for ''f' ? '' ' ■'■ '^' " -' While the English fought their way by inches in almost every settlement, the French generally lived WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 301 on fraternal terms with their immediate neighbors, and engaged in hostilities with distant tribes rather as allies than as principals. The Indian wars of the English were generally civil ones ; those of the French were almost universally foreign. — In the in- cursions, of which we have instanced one, the aim of the Iroquois was not so much the French, as the Hurons and the Algonquins. After a lapse of eight years of dubious security, Quebec, as if in anticipation of its final and perma- nent destiny, fell into the hands of the hereditary enemies of France. In the preceding year, that is in 16*28, Sir David Kertk, accompanied by William de Caen, a traitor to his country, penetrated as far as Tadoussac with a powerful squadron, and thence summoned the Governor of Quebec to an immediate surrender. Champlain, who had founded the colony, and whose name will live for ever in a Lake rich in historic recollections, had at that time the command of Que- bec. The gallant commander, relying perhaps as much on a bold front, as on the strength of the de- fences or the prowess of the garrison, saved the set- tlement from Kertk's irresistible force by the spirited reply of himself and his companions. In July following, an English fleet under two bro- tliprs of Sir David Kertk, who remained himself at Tadoussac, anchored unexpectedly before the town. Those, who know the difficulty, even in the present day, of conveying intelligence, between Quebec and the lower parts of the river, will not be surprised that this fleet should have, almost literally, brought the first intelligence cf its own approach. The brothers immediately sent, under the protec- tion of a white flag, the following summons, which 2 c 302 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I! -li! "■ li breathes at once a consciousness of strength and a I Thj feeling of generosity. Irlson i July I9th, 1629, I for in Sir, • :- - ; . ■ r- - ^ .. ...i ,^ I rp^^ Our brother having last year informed you that I persor sooner or later he would take Quebec, he desires U8 1 Tha to oifer you his friendship and respects, as we alsoldeparti do on our part, and knowing the wretched state of I and th{ your garrison, we order you to surrender the Fort and settlement of Quebec into our hands, oiferin|r you terms that you will consider reasonable, and which shall be granted on your surrender. That of Enofi sac, tha treat wi That ChamplairCs answer. Gentlemen, It is too true that owing to the want of succourl/. /"^'' and assistance from France, our distress is vervjr. ." ^ great, and that we are incapable of resistance — lip ^® therefore desire that you will not fire on the townj rJ^i^^' nor land your troops until the articles of capitulatioil can be drawn up. T^^^^ I Ihat Articles of Capitulation proposed hy Champlain. '^^ ^ ^ That Messieurs Kertk shall prod uce the King of Engl land's Commission, by virtue of which they summo/ the place to surrender, as an evidence that war haj been declared between Francf and England. Tha they should also produce authority by which thej were empowered by their brother David Kertk, Ac miral of the Fleet. That a vessel should be furnishf for transporting to France all the French, witho^ excepting two Indian women. That the soldiers should march out with their an and baggage. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 303 :rength and a mlh 1629. That the vessel to be provided to carry the gar- rison to France shall be well victualled, to be paid for in peltries. That no violence or insult shall be offered to any armed you that I person. , he desires us I That the vessel to be procured shall be ready for ;ts, as we also I departure three days after their arrival at Tadoussac, itched state of I and that they shall be transported, jnder the Fortf hands, offering . . >i > .• Answer of the Kertks, easonable, and nder. That they had not the commission from the King of England, but that their brother had it at Tadous- sac, thiit they were empowered by their brother to treat with Mr. Champlain. That a vessel would be provided, and if not suf- want of succour gcientiy j^rge, they would be put on board the ships distress IS venj^f^jjg ^^^^ ^^ England, and from thence sent to France. That the Indian women could not be given up for reasons to be explained when they met. That the officers and soldiers should march out , . with their arms, baa:a:aa:e and other effects. hy Champlain, ^^ ^ the Kin o" of Engl Champlain's own proposals of capitulation satis- 1 thev^summof^c^^^i^y demonstrate that, down to 1629, France had re that war haf ^^dly any permanent footing in the country. By Fnffland. ThJ^^P^l^^i^^g ^or the removal of " all the French," in bv which thefc^ebec, Champlain seems to have considered that ) vid Kertk Adf^^ Province was virtually lost to France ; and the nld be furnishe >ingle vessel, which was to furnish the means of a . French withoi eraoval, reduces " all the French" in Quebec to a ?ery paltry number. The humanity of the victors, t with their an 'owever, had the effect of inducing most of the colo- lists to remain under the English Government. pf resistance—] ire on the town, s of capitulatioi ' ^i'li m ! Mil ;^|., 304 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, With Quebec fell of course the whole of Canada into the power of England. Chai-.p'ain, with the partiality of a father for his child, strove by the most pressing entreaties, and by the most natural exaggerations, to make his country wrest Quebec from England by negociation or by arms. His countrymen, however, die not unani- mously second the unsuccessful commander*s blended aspirations of patriotism and ambition. With the exception of a few placemen, and of a few zealots for commercial intercourse and maritime enterprise, most of the leading men of France considered Canada merely as an expensive toy. — The government, therefore, permitted three years to elapse without employing any active means of recovering the lost colony, and at last adopted the alternative of nego- ciation, its cheapest and most powerful weapon against the generous prowess of England. In 1632, France recovered, by the treaty of St. Germain-en- Lay f, Canada along with the Acadian Peninsula and th<; Island of Cape Breton. Connected with this point of our interesting sub- ject, a few observations on the colonial supremacy of Britain may not be deemed impertinent by the intel- ligent reader. Before the decay of the feudal system, and the establishment of standing armies, had consolidated the gigantic kingdoms of Spain and France, England was more than a match in a fair field for either of her more populous and more extensive rivals. Subse- quently, however, to the introduction of those politi- cal and military innovations, England was induced as well by necessity as by inclination to cherish her navy, as the safest and most efficient means of maintaining her high position among the powers of With historical recollections. 305 lie of Canada father for his !aties, and by e his country ciation or by L not unani- der's blended . With the jw zealots for e enterprise, dered Canada government, apse without ering the lost tive of nego- eapon against ! treaty of St. the Acadian on. teresting sub- supremacy of t by the intel- stem, and the d consolidated ance, England r either of her Lvals. Subse- }f those politi- . was induced on to cherish nent means of the powers of Europe. Not only has her navy secured to her the uninterrupted blessings of national independence, and the proud rank of arbitress of Europe ; but it has enabled her to reap the rich fruits of the colonial en- terprise of France, Portugal, and Holland. Sic vos non vobis, would have been the appropriate, though haughty, inscription of her omnipresent and omnipo- tent banner. As if by the unerring hand of destiny, colony after colony, from Ganges' banks to Erie's side, has been made to submit, notwithstanding repeated restitutions, to the permanent dominion of the I3ritish name ; and a nation separated from all other nations, owes, chiefly to that very separation, the mastery of a world, far more extensive than the " whole world," of the Roman bard. But however humiliating to rivals may have been the colonial conquests of England, the conquered colonies have found, in the blessings of political liberty and comparatively unrestricted com- merce, an ample recompense for their share of na- tional humiliation, and have generally acquiesced with a feeling of peaceful gratitude in the milder and happier order of things. Champlain was reinstated in the government of the recovered colony, and during the remaining years of his honorable life was exempted from the troubles at least of foreign invasion. Quebec seems to have enjoyed a kind of dubious tranquillity, untilabout twenty years after Champlain's death, the Five Nations, to the unusually large num- ber of seven hundred warriors, after having massacred the natives and the colonists in the open country, and committed the most cruel devastations, blockaded Quebec for several successive months. — Such a siege may occupy a very small share of our consideration ; but the recollections of the tomahawk, and the knife 2c3 11 |!l( i'!i' ! ! ti'« 111 806 NEW PICTURE OF j;>U£BEC, of the yelling children of the forest, are still vivid enough in Canada, to rouse our definite sympathies for the dangers and the distresses of the unhappy citizens. The scene must have teemed with pictu- resque horrors ; and many bold and thrilling achieve- ments doubtless deepened its terrible interest. This siege, although ultimately battled, was very prejudicial to the welfare of Quebec: its dangers and terrors drove many of the settlers to France in des- pair, and almost led to the ruin of the colony. After a lapse of about thirty years, (Quebec, under the command of the gallant Count de Frontenac, made a vigorous and honorable defence in 1690, against the forces of Sir William Phipps, Governor of Massachusetts. As this siege in addition to its intrinsic interest, was the fruit of the colonial system of France pre- viously noticed, it demands a fuller and more cir- cumstantial detail in any historical sketch of Quebec, For some years before the date of this siege, the French had vigorously availed themselves of their geographical position not merely to harass, but to circumscribe the colonies of New England and New York. The possession of Acadia, which had been restored by England, in defiance of the remonstrance of the neighboring provinces, enabled France to command and cripple the commerce and the fisheries of the eastern colonies ; while the discovery of the Mississippi, in the year 1673, and the subsequent attempts of France to colonise its banks excited se- rious alarms for the security of the more westerly settlements. The English colonies, roused to a sense of the impending dangers, made unparalleled exertions both by land crafty a In U small fo year ma the true The im invasion the begi an attacj multane main de: stances, south, th and mur tants of city. The I cowardly annals o fined te determin bled at I all possi from the munitior whole bi selves at the Fren invasion resisted restitutio implacab Imanent Wolfe. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 307 by land and sea to deliver themselves fronr. their crafty and restless neighbours. In 1690, they took Port Iloyal in Acadia with a small force of seven hundred men ; and in the same year made a judiciously planned attempt on Quebec, the true centre of the French power in America. The immediate cause of this attempt was the cruel invasion of the state of New- York by the French in the beginning of the year. The French had concerted an attack on the city of New-York, to be made si- multaneously by sea and land ; but, though their main design was disappointed by unforeseen circum- stances, they sent forth marauding parties to the south, that laid waste the country with fire and sword, and murdered in cold blood the unresistinij inhabi- tants of Schenectady with more than barbarian fero- city. The English colonists, provoked by an attack so cowardly, so atrocious and so uncommon even in the annals of American warfare, and haunted by unde- fined terrors of future encroachmeiit and cruelty, determined, by means of their commissioners assem- bled at New-York, to carry the war into Canada with all possible diligence. Having in vain requested from the mother country a supply of ships and am- munition, the colonists gallantly resolved to bear the whole burden of the invasion, and to extricate them- selves at all hazards from the rapidly closing net of the French. It is more than probable that had their invasion of Canada been successful, they would have resisted by something more than remonstrances the restitution of the Province to their inveterate and implacable enemies, and have anticipated by a per- manent conquest the triumphs of the immortal Wolfe. i 308 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, , I i IIU i The invading forces consisted of an army, that was to cross the country under General Winthrop, and a naval squadron under the command of Governor Phipps. Of the army nothing more needs be said, than that like every other army on a similar errand, it was completely unsuccessful; to the squadron, which conducted the siege of Quebec, our last attention must be given. ^ As soon as the Count de Frontenac, who had turn- ed his earliest attention to the operations of the land army, was apprised of its retreat, he led back his troops with all possible diligence to reinforce the gar- rison of Quebec, having oiJered the governors of Montreal and Three-Rivers to follow him with their disposable forces of militia and regulars. By extraordinary exertions, the gallant Count put the city in a state at least of temporary defence be- fore the arrival of the hostile squadron, and seems to have infused into his soldiers his own heroic confi- dence of success. Sir William Phipps appeared before the town on the 5th October, old style. Charlevoix, who uses the new style adopted by the French as early as 1582, calls it the 16th. Although he was certainly neither a traitor nor a coward, the delay and irreso- lution of the General were afterwards complained of, probably owing to the great disappointment of the English colonists, at the failure of the expedition and the fruitless expense which had been incurred. On the 6th October " it was concluded," says Major Walley in his narrative, " that a summons should be| sent ashore," of which the following is a copy : army, that was kVinthrop, and \ of Governor needs be said, similar errand, ;quadron,wliicli last attention , who had turn- on s of the land e led back his linforce the gar- e governors of him with their ars. llant Count put iry defence be- n, and seems to n heroic confi- before the town levoix, who uses ich as early as e was certainly elay and irreso- s complained of, lointment of the a expedition and L incurred. On d," says Major nmons should be is a copy : WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 309 ** To Count Frontenac, Lieutenant General, and Governor for the French King at Canada, or in his absence, to his deputy, or him or them in chief command. " The war between the two crowns of England and France, does not only sufficiently warrant, but the destruction made by the French and Indians un- der your command and encouragement, upon the persons and estates of their Majesties' subjects of New England, without provocation on their part, kth put them under the necessity of this expedition, for their security and satisfaction, and although the cruelties and barbarities used against them by the French and the Indians, might upon the present oc- casions prompt to a severe revenge ; yet being de- sirous to avoid all inhumanity and unchristian-like actions, and to prevent the shedding of blood as much as may be, I, William Phipps, Knight, do hereby and in the name and on behalf of their most excellent Majesties' William and Mary, King and Queen of England, Scotland, France and Ireland, defenders of the faith, and by order of their Majesties* said government of the Massachusetts colony in New England, demand a surrender of your Forts and Castles and the things and other stores, unembezzled, with a seasonable delivery of all captives, together with a surrender of all your persons and estates to my disposal. *' Upon the doing whereof you may expect mercy roni me, as a christian, according to what shall be ound for their Majesties' service and the subjects' se- curity, which if you refuse forthwith to do, I come )rovided, and am resolved by the help of God, ou I lli' 'III!! ^M 310 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ' 'i ' >' whom I trust, by force of arms, to revenge all wrongs and injuries oft'ered, and bring you under subjection to the Crown of England ; and when too late make you wish you had accepted the favor tend»?red. " Your answer positive in an hour — returned with your own trumpet, with the return of mine, is re- quired upon the peril that will ensue." The circumstances attending the reception of the English officer, the attempt made to impose upon his imagination, his behaviour, and the spirited reply of Frontenac will be found in a former chapter, in our account of the Castle of St. Lewis. Finding the place prepared for defence, Sir Wil- liam after a fruitless attempt to capture it, on the land side, by an attack on the River St. Charles, contented himself with a bombardment of the city, and retired after staying a week in the harbor. All the English narratives of the siege plausibly enough ascribe the defeat to Sir William's procrastinati!^g disposition, but he seems on this occasion at least to have had sufficient justification in the obvious impro- priety of attacking a city almost impregnable by| nature, and swarming with zealous defenders. Charlevoix mentions that he was delayed by head winds and by bad pilots. But Sir William's delay, from whatever circumstances it sprung, was indubita- bly the sole cause of the subsequent disgrace and I disaster. Had the English forces arrived but three days sooner they ecu Id not have failed to achieve an easy and almost bloodless conquest ; but during that period, time for defence was afforded, and M. de Cal- lieres. Governor of Montreal, had reinforced thel garrison with the troops of the upper country, and rendered the besieged numerically superior to the besiegers. But even in this apparently untoward! WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 311 circumstance Pliipps might have discerned the gleams of certain victory, for the increased consumption of supplies, originally scanty, would soon have enlisted on his side the powerful aid of famine. Our French manuscript clearly shows that even before Sir William's hasty departure, the garrison had deeply tasted the horrors of famine. The Nuns re- stricted themselves to a daily morsel of bread ; and the loaves which they furnished to the soldiers, were impatiently devoured in the shape of dough — terror and distress reigned in the city, " for," in the simple but affecting language of the writer, " every thing diminished excepting hunger." To add to the ge- neral confusion, the English squadron kept up a tre- mendous cannonade more to the alarm than to the injury of the inhabitants. Major VValiey's Journal, besides being too prolix for our limits, is less likely to interest the sympathies of the reader than the nar- rative of one of the besieged. We therefore take the following extracts from our French manuscript : " It is easy to imagine how our alarms redoubled, when we heard the noise of the cannon we were more dead than alive, every time that the combat was re- newed. The bullets fell on our premises in such numbers, that in one day we sent twenty-six of them to our artillerymen to be sent back to the English. Several of us thought that we were killed by them ; the danger was so evident that the bravest officers regarded the capture of Quebec as inevitable. In Ispite of all our fears we prepared different places for the reception of the wounded, because the combat had commenced with an air to make us believe that lour hospital would not be capable of containing those who might have need of our assisttince : but God spared the blood of the French ; there were few :UI{ ;;;ii| 312 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, wounded and fewer killed. Quebec was very badly fortified for a siege ; it contained very few arms and no provisions ; and the troops that had come from Montreal had consumed the little food that there was in the city." " The fruits and vegetables of our gar- den were pillaged by the soldiers ; they warmed themselves at our expense and burned our wood." " Every thing appeared sweet to us, provided we could be preserved from falling into the hands of those whom we regard as the enemies of God, as well as of ourselves. We had not any professed artillery- men. Two Captains, M. De Maricourt and M. De Lorimirr, took charge of the batteries and point- ed the cannon f)0 accurately as hardly ever to miss. M. De Maricourt shot down the flag of the Admiral, and, as soon as it fell, our Canadians boldly ventured out in a canoe to pick it up, and brought it ashore under the very beard of the English." ABORTIVE EXPEDITION IN 1711. The defeat of Sir William Phipps was sensibly felt by the people of New England, who indeed were called upon to defray the expense, amounting i to one hundred and Rfty thousand pounds. Theyi frequently represented to the British Ministry the I commercial advantages, which would result from the total expulsion of the French from North America. At last, in 1707, during the military glories of the reign of Queen Anne, distinguished by a Marlbo- rough, as this age is by a Wellington — the Earl I of SuNDEKLAND, Secretary of State, determined to make another attempt to dislodge the French from their almost impregnable position at Quebec. The armai mand ed fn in cor the af OF S] allied In in a si exped: Gener of No^ the na officer had th into th( peditio LAND, a Gen en MASHi was plj Walki Gulf o the Egj success! I was Gel ling 3,w Ion thiS ei^rlity. vincial iiad adi hy six l| quartei Idition. Ifactionj ;c, .'/ WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 313 vas very badly r few arms and bad come from [ that there was )les of our gar- they warmed led our wood." 1, provided we e hands of those iod, as well as ■es?ed artillery- ricourt and M. eries and point- ly ever to miss, of the Admiral, boldly ventured ought it ashore 1711. 'PS was sensibly SID, who indeed 2nse, amounting pounds. They ish Ministry the I result from the North America. T glories of the 1 by a Marlbo- iGTON — the Earl B, determined to he French from t Quebec. The armament intended for this object, under the com- mand of General Macartney, was, however, divert- ed from its destination, and ordered to Portugal, in consequence of the disastrous condition to which the aifairsof the Queen's Ally, Charles III. King OF Spain, had been reduced by the defeat of the allied forces at Almanza. In 1711, the project was resumed, only to result in a signal and mortifying failure. The plan of this expedition was suggested by a provincial officer, General Nicholson, who had just taken possession of Nova Scotia, on which occasion he had given the name of Annapolis to Port Royal. This officer had bror jht to London four Indian Chiefs, and had the address to persuade the Ministry to enter into the views of the New England States. The ex- pedition consisted of five thousand troops from Eng- land, and two thousand provincials, under Brigadier General Hill, brother to the Queen's favorite, Mrs, Masham. The naval force was very strong, and was placed under the command of Sir Hovenden Walk£R. The ^eet met with constant fogs in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and was nearly destroyed on the Ej^g Islands on the 22d August. Despairing of success, the Admiral called a council of war, and it was Getermined to return to England without mak- ing any further attempt. Eight transports were lost on this disastrous day, with eight hundred and eighty -four officers, soldiers, and seamen. The pro- vincial land forces under General Nicholson, which had advanced as far as Albany, and had been joined hy six hundred Iroouois, returned to their respective quarters on hearing of the failure of the naval expe- dition. It is remarkable that during the heat of the factions of that day, the Whigs affected to consider 2 D . 1i :! i ■'m I'! i !i; I 11 ! 314 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, this attempt on Quebec so perfectly desperate an undertaking, that it was made one of the articles of impeachment against Harley, Earl of Oxford, that he had suffered it to go on. • •. f The Marquis De Vaudreuil, then Governor General of Canada, omitted no duty of a brave and prudent officer on this occasion. The rejoicings at Quebec were naturally great at so signal a de- liverance ; and the Church of Notre Dame de la Vic- toire spoke the pious gratitude of the religious inhabitants, by assuming the title of Notre Dame des Victoires, . , expedition of 1759. If it be the province of History to record gr<^at actions and glorious achievements, there cannot be a nobler subject than this expedition, so distin- guished for enterprise, conduct and success. By the common consent of the world, Quebec is for ever identified with the renown of the two great na- tions who contended for its possession ; and the his- tory of this period will always be referred to as equally interesting, attractive and important. The varied incidents of the expedition — the arrival before the town — the attack of the fire ships — the fruitless engagement at Montmorenci — the bombardment from Pointe-Levi — the landing under the heights of Abraham — the battle of the Plains — the death of the two heroic leaders — the surrender — the subse- quent fight at SiLLERY — the siege by the French— and the arrival of the English fleet, form a series of spirit-stirring events, which possess the mind of tlief reader with the eager interest of vicissitude, as they in turn develope the great gamie of war, played by ^9 M WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 315 desperate an the articles of Oxford, that en Governor uty of a brave The rejoicings io signal a de- )ame de la Vk- the religious Sfotre Dame des to record great here cannot be ^ion, so distiii- [l success, iiy Quebec is for le two great iia- in ; and the his- referred to as mportant. The he arrival before ps — the fruitless e bombardment rider the heights is — the death of ider — the suhse- y the French- form a series of the mind of the issitude, as they war, played by the most skilful hands, and for the noblest stake ! The scene of this heroic drama, the actors, and the event will be for ever memorable. The tale has been handed down by various writers — but to do justice to the narration requires the pen of Wolfe himself —whose style was adorned with all the felicity of C/Ksar, and whose celebrated letter to Mr. Pitt is still considered unsurpassed as a military compo- sition. . . PRELIMINARY SKETCH. A brief review of colonial affairs between the peace of Utrecht, in 1713, and the commencement of the campaign of 1759, appears a necessary introduction to the glorious expedition of Wolfe. Notwithstand- ing the peace of Ut..echt, the English Colonists had never forgotten the defeat of Phipps in 1690, or the failure of the expedition in 171 1. They still smarted with the irritation occasioned by the inroads of the Indians in the French interest ; and although their hopes of finally curbing the encroachments of the enemy had been often excited and disappointed, they were far from being extinguished. The erec- tion by the French of the strong forts of Niagara, TicoNDEROGA and Crown Point, — all in most com- manding situations, as a reference to the Map will demonstrate, — was viewed by them as an infringe- ment of the treaty of Utrecht, which provided that no encroachment should be made on territories belonging to the Five Nations. The attempts, also, made by emissaries from Canada to detach those Indians from the English alliance, naturally exasperated the colo- nists, and led to the sanguinary conflicts which were so frequent about the middle of the eighteenth cen* tury. :u..:ju4* .-'.<-» iu' .Si " 4,; \-'. - ..... -■...-. • ^ , - ii'i: :ii It I Ii 316 NEW PICTUUE OP f;>UEBEC, The peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748, was in one sense only gratifying to the colonists ; inasmuch as the expense of the successful expedition against LouiSBouRG had been reimbursed to them by the British Parliament. But they were disgusted, and with reason, that Cape Breton, " their own acqui- sition," as they proudly termed it, had been restored to France by that treaty. Very soon after the peace, however, the restless spirit of the French began to display itself. The American continent was not destined to enjoy the blessings of internal tranquillity for many years yet to come. The Governor of Canada had sent a message to the Indians on the eastern frontier of New England, dissuading them from any peace with the English ; and on the other side the French began to enlarge their own and to circum.scribe the territories of their rivals. They had constructed a chain of forts at the back of Vir- ginia, Pennsylvania, and Nrw York. An Eng- lishman taken in Ohio was passed along from fort to fort until he arrived at Quebec. One of these forts, that of Du Quesne, was actually in the territory of Virginia. Crown Point was always an annoy- ance to the Colonists, and from Ticonderoga issu- ed those ferocious incursions of French and Indians which spread terror and desolation throughout the English settlements. So great was the dread of this fortress, that its capture by General Amherst, in 1759, was hailed by the northern colonies with every demonstration of joy. On all accounts it was seen in America that the peace could not be of long continuance. While the Governor General of Canada continued his endea- vors to seduce the Five Nations, — he was evidently preparing materials for a war which terminated in WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 317 the loss of all the French possessions on this con- tinent. ^ CONVENTION AT ALBANY. ' ' • Such was the condition of affairs in 1754, hen the English Minister recommentled a convcntiion of delegates from the different assemblies, to be held at Albany. This was an assembly the most deserving of respect of any which had ever been convened in America. The erection of the French forts — the sending out of troops from France — the constant encroachments of the Canadians were insisted upon ; and in language not altoge'^her unlike the groans of the ancient Britons, the i.r>h lists complained, that without strong and energ ^tic opposition, they v/ere likely to be driven at last into the sea by their inde- fatigable enemies. At this convention appeared Benjamin Franklin, who produced a plan for a general union of the ditierent States, and for esta- blishing a quota, and fixed rule for lev5ang men and money throughout the colonies. This paper was admirably drawn up, and presents the outline of a very practicable federal union. The plan was unanimously voted by the convention, but the diffe- rent states were not disposed to entertain it; and no notice was ever taken of it at home. - « One great object of the remarkable convention, held at Albany in July, 1754, was to establish that unity of action and resistance which was so desirable and so necessary in the operations of the sister colonies against the French. The English colonies were vulnerable in different degrees, and at different points. They were under separate local governments. The French possessions, from the Gulf of St. Lawrence 2d3 318 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I to the Gulf of Mexico, were subject to one Go- vernment ; and the energies of the whole could be directed to the attack of any particular colony that the Governor General at Quebec might choose to select. The Legislature of each particular colony had the exclusive control of its own militia ; — and the contingents of men and money to be furnished by each of the sister colonies in aid of the colony as- sailed, depended upon the votes of each particular Legislature. Hence there was a great difficulty in obtaining an unity of action on the part of the whole of the British colonies, corresponding with that which prevailed in the French North American posses- sions. THE WAR BREAKS OUT, The flames of war — the last war in America be- tween the natives of England and France, — a war in many cases of extermination, from the violence of the passions excited, and the employment of the Indians on both sides, were kindled in 1755. We must omit the details — the unfortunate expedition of Braddock — and the victory of the famous Sir Wil LiAM Johnson over Baron Dieskau, in which the former was wounded, and for which he was created a Baronet. The three following campaigns were disas- trous to the colonists, who were unable to make any impression on the Canada side. The French troops were commanded by the Marquis De Montcalm, an officer of great military skill, who had already dis- tinguished himself in various parts of the world. On tho 14th August, 1756, he captured the Fort of| Oswego ; and on the 9th August, in the following j year, besieged and took possession of Fort Willia.m WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 319 ;t to one Go- liole could be r colony that gilt choose to ticular colony militia ; — and be furnished the colony as- ach particular it difficulty in t of the whole vith that which erican posses- America be- ll AN CE, — a war the violence of oyment of the in 1755. We e expedition of mous Sir Wil- J, in which the le was created a igns were disas- )le to make any e French troops Montcalm, an lad already dis- the world. On ed the Fort of in the following [ Fort William Henry, defended by a numerous garrison, and com- manded by officers of proved courage and experience. The atrocities committed by the Indians in the French interest, upon the unhappy and defenceless captives on this occasion, showed the impossibility of conducting the war, with such allies, on European principles. It formed no part of the Indian warrior's creed, that moderation in success added a nobler wreath to the victor's brow, nor could he undcr- sUind the distinction, Parcere siibjectis, et dcbcllare superbos. Montcalm had no participation in the cruel mas- sacre of part of the captive garrison of William Henry : he exerted himself to the utmost to restrain the fury of the Indians, but in vain. Undismayed by the result of three unsuccessful campaigns, the colonists were determined to proceed in their hostilities. In 1758, the Earl of Loudoun, Commander-in-Chief of the Forces, appointed a meet- ing of the Governors of New York and the New Eng- land colonies at Hartford, on the 20tli February, to take measures for another campaign. Nothing satisfactory was concluded at this assembly, and Lord Loudoun shortly afterwards returned to England. At the next sitting of the Massachusetts Assembly, letters were received from Mr. Pitt, calling upon the Provincials to assist in the reduction of Canada ; and so popular was this proposal, that no less than seven thousand men w^ere voted. This was the greatest exertion ever made by the Province. The conquest of Canada alone could ensure the colo- nists future peace ; and freedom from that dis- tress which they were liable to whenever a war I i-W^ " /"• 320 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, iv; ll broke out between Enolynd and France. They were aware, that whenever North America should be united under the British Crown, there would be no longer reason to dread tlieir French and *ndian enemies, who had been a scourge tr the colonies from their first settlement. It will readily, therefore, be believed, that the first proposal of the Ministry to undertake the reduction of Canada, by an expedition on a grand scale, was received by the colonists with joyful co-operation. . ;i . The largest army that had ever been seen in Ame- rica, consisting of six thousand regular troops and nine thousand provincials, under General Abercrom- bie, embarked on the placid bosom of Lake George for Ticondeuoga, July 5th, 1758, only to meet with disgrace and disaster. The attack upon this Fort fail- ed completely, with the loss of fifteen hundred men, including the popular and gallant Lord Howe, elder brother of the Admiral, and of Sir William, a young nobleman of the greatest promise. The Assembly of Massachusetts, to testify their respect for his merit and services, voted two hundred and fifty pounds for the erection of a Monument to his memory, which was put up in Westminster Abbey. As some compensation for the ill-success of Gene- ral Abercrombie, who was immediately recalled, the fortified and strongly garrisoned town of Louis- bo urg, in Cape Bre in, was taken in the most gal- lant style by the army under General Amherst, and Brigadier General Wolfe, who there developed his extraordinary bravery, activity and military qualities. Fort Frontenac, and Fort Duquesne, nv ar the Ohio, were also captured by the colonists in the campaign of 1758. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 821 The year 1759 found the British Government still determined to prosecute with vigor the reduction of Canada. Mr. Pitt again called upon the colonists to raise the same number of men as in the year before, promising a recompense proportioned to the extent of thoir exertion. The plan for the operations of 1759 was laid with greater care, and had better chances of success, from the various points of attack, a- J the superior cha- racter of the officers and troops errnloyed in its ex- ecution, thin any of the previous campaigns. There had been no attack of Canada by the River St. Law- rence since the unfortunate expedition of 1711, while the various attempts by Lake Champlain had been foiled by the bravery, vigilance, and good for- tune of the French commanders, who were far supe- rior in the mode of warfare required. In 1759, however, it was determined once more to combine naval with military operations ; and to found upon the plans of 1690 and 1711, a better combination, and a more extended system of attack. - GOVERNOR POWNALL'S PLAN. The first idea of the combined operations of 1759 Iraust be referred to the convention at Albany, in 1754. Mr. PowNALL, afterwards Captain General |of Massachusetts Bay, whence he was removed to the Government of South Carolina, was present at this assembly ; and laid before the Commissioners several valuable memorials on the subject of the Co- lonies. He also transmitted, in 1754 and 1755, to the Earl of Halifax, then Secretary of State, various letters proposing a general plan of operations found- ed upon the nature of the service in North America, JiMlm ■'•"■nwr^itfflflafMrWII 822 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I }i: >! :J ,11 A !i 'illi •• i i:l These are still extant, and are documents of pre- eminent ability, full of practical wisdom and deep combinations. The King having united the service in tin Colonies into one power of action, and under one direction, by appointing a Commander-in-C hief over all North America, Mr. Pownall afterwards condensed the substance of these letters into a me- morial, by order of the Duke of Cumberland, and presented it to Tlis Royal Highness, on arriving in Knghuid, in 17;')6, Mr. Pownall then proposed to the Earl of Halifax, — " That after the English had been repeatedly disappointed in their attempts to pe- netrate? the country by the way of Crown Point and Lake Champiain, and had lost Oswego and the corr mand of the Lake Ontario, considering the reason there was also to expect the defection of the Indians in consequence thereof; ther i remair''?d no other alternative, but either to make peace, or to chanfjt the object of the tear, by making a direct attack up the lliver St. Lawrence upon Quebec itself, urged to a r.'ulical destruction of Car»ada." He recom- mended the necessity of two tieets, and two armies, j one for the attack of the River St. Lawrence, tliej other to take post between Albany and Montreal, so as to cover the Eriirlish Colonies. One of the I fleets to escort and convey the army up the River St. Lawrence, and th«j other to cover and protect the sea line of tlie CoIot»ies. Nothing was done, how. ever, with reference to this plan, in 1757 ; and inl tlie following year the naval operations were limited to tljo ca})ti!re of Louisbourg, We lenru, from Governor PownalTs papers, tliatl so far back as 1(>78, the French had a brigantine ofj ten tons on Lake Ontario, and in the year followiiigj a vessel of sixty tons upon Lake Erie. He gives! an ad Frenc the l —and Frenc speakj the Fr settled lishern settlen conimtj a list ber of at two nine hi dred ar and the also thj valuab! was fir; With historical recollections. -) 323 lents of pre- lorn and deep jcl the service •n, and under nder-in-Chiet" all afterwards rs into a me- [iiberland, and m arriving in n proposed to e En[^lisli had attempts tope- own Point and 3 and the coir •ing the reason of the Indians mv-A no other ;e, or to chavfjt rect attack up wc itself, urged " He recoin- and two armies, Lawrence, the I and ISIontrcal, s. One of tlie up the Ulver r and protect the was done, how- . 1757 ; and in [vns were limited iirs papers, that a brigantinc of year following, Erie. He give> an admirable account of the system by which the French acquired and maintained their influence over the Indian nations — their policy in building forts —and makes a distinction betweti^. the English »ul French settlements, which is somewhat curious. He speaks of the English lands as settlements^ and of the French, us possessions : the English having merely settled without possession, as farmers, millers and fishermen — whereas the French made not only actual settlement, but took military possession and the command of the country. Governor Pownall gives a list of the F>ench forts, and estimates the num- ber of troops in the different posts in Louisiana at two thousand; whereof there were at New Orleans nine hundred and seventy-five, at Mobile four hun- dred and seventy-five, in the Illinois three hundred, and the rest detached in the smaller forts. We find also that in consequence of his recommendation, that valuable species of force, called " Light Infantry,'* was first eniployed in America, in the year 1757. It was originally composed of provincials, and its use and qualities in American warfare are admirably described. In the year 1758, Governor Pownall addressed to Mr. Pitt a letter, dated from Boston, Decendier 5th, intituled, an " Jilea of the service in America Jor the year 1759," from which we extract thj following remarkable passages, showing the extent of his in- formation, and how nearly the event corresponded with his recommendations. " If we have changed the point, and brought it to its true issue, its natural crisis, whether we, as provinces of Great Britain, or Ciuiada, as the province of France, shall be superior in America ; then the service to be done, is a general ihvasion ofCanadcii in conjunction ivith the European 324 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, ilii "111 troops and fleet ; then is our national strengtli employed, and we must consequently be naturally superior." " The road to Quebec, up the 8t. Lawrence River, we possess by superiority of our marine navigation. There is neither danger nor difficulty, nor do I see how there can be any oppo- sition to hinder the fleet getting up to the Isle of Orleans ; and a superior army in the possession of that, may, by proper measures, command the re^t of the way to Quebec. If our army can once set down before Quebec, it must take it : If Quebec be taken, the capitulation may at least strip Canada of all the regulars, after which the inhabitants might possibly be induced to surrender." "But although this attempt on Quebec, by way of the St. Lawrence River, may be the only real, and will be the only effectual attack on Canada: yet one other, if not two false attacks will be necessary, one by way of Lake Chainplain, the other by way of Lake Ontario. That by way of Lake Champlain, may, as far as Crown Point, be offensive ; and should then change into a defensive measure, by taking strong post there." , " A number of provincials will certainly be necessary, and these such as are used to the water, and ma^-ine navigation ; for such will be of the most essential service in the passage of the army from Ik lower end of the Isle of Orleans to Quebec, where most of the difficulty and danger will be'* The result of the campaign proved the foresight of Governor Pownall. Quebec was taken as soon as the army, by the glorious battle of the Plains, vas enabled to sit down before it; and the operations of General Amherst were limited dnring the campaign of 1759 to the capture of Crown Point, which he for- tified and made a defensive post. The operations oii WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 325 ■'HI al strengtli be naturally , up the St. ority of our danger nor \e any oppo- ) the Isle of possession of nd the rest of nice set down sbec be taken, uda of all the iig:ht possibly although this St Lawrence ill be the only ther, ifnottwo tvay of Lake \ntario. That far as Crotcn change into a r post there." il certainly be cl to the water, le of the most army from the Qiiehec, when d the foresight |aken as soon as the Plains, vas ie operatic ns of T the campaign t, which he for- .e operations oil Lake Ontario were carried just to that eflfect which opened the way for the next campaign, in 1760, when General Amherst went that way to take pos- session of Canada. The project of the campaign, ultimately adopted by the Ministry, was to make impressions on three different parts at once, so as to distract the attention and divide the forces of the French. The command in chief was entrusted to General Amherst, who with an army of twelve thousand men under his particular command, was to reduce Ticonderoga and Crown Point. He was then to cross Lake Champlain, and proceeding along the lliver Richelieu, was to reach the St. Lawrence, and unite himself to tlie army destine^' to attack Quebec. General Prideaux, with anotlier army, and with a large body of friendly In- dians, under Sir William Johnson, on whom they fully relied, was ordered to capture Fort Niagara, which commanded the interior of the country, and was considered one of the most important of the French posts. He also, if successful, was to descend to Montreal, and undertake the attack of that city. The immediate attack from the sea was directed solely against Quebec, and the troops were placed under the command of Major General James Wolfe, who had distinguished himself so eminently the year before at the siege and capture of Louisbourg, and who possessed the confidence and the affections of Ithe army to an extraordinary degree. The Minister in his choice of the youthful General regarded merit alone. He required a man on whose abilities he could Iroly ; and he was fully persuaded of the professional jtalent of Wolfe, and of the immense resources of Ills mind and character. Patronage Mr, Pitt disre- toied) as the General was undistinguished by family 2 E '¥ : ? :) i NEW PV:;TTJ]iE OF QUEBEC, connexion or fortnne ; alihouj^h t^ori;j wlio were placed under his command prssessed, in addition to great merit, the reconir4je5i(lj.tions of high birth and ministerial interest. It is understood that Wolfe had the selection of all his Staff Officers ; and if so, no- thing could more clearly demonstrate his own judg- ment than the admirable selection which he made. He had ample reason to be satisfied with every de- partment ; for never was a General served with greater zeal, courage and conduct. The naval forces for the service in North America consisted of twenty sail of the line, two ships of fifty guns, twelve frigates, and fourteen smaller vessels. Transports were to be procured, or were to meet them, at Halifax and Lnuisbourg. The whole was un- der the command of Vice Admiral Saunders, who had under him Rear Admirals Philip Durell and Charles Holmes, all officers of distinction in the service of their country. Admiral Durell had wintered at Halifax, and pursuant to instructions sailed for the River St. Lawrence ns early as the state of the na- vigation would permit, for the purpose of interrupt- ing the early convoys from France. In this he was iniaiiccessful, three frigates, having in convoy seven- toer. vessels, with provisions, stores and a few recruits,! having reached Quebec a few days before his arrival] at Bic, on the 23d May. Here, however, he per- formed a signal service to the expedition. Havind hoisted French colors, the pilots in the River think- ing his a French fleet, which might have be^n expect- ed at that time, came unhesitatingly on board, andj were detained until the arrival of Admiral Saunder^l and the troops. They were then compelled to pil the fleet up to the Isle of Orleans, which, althouglil grie WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 327 i Willi werci addition to jrli birth and 'WoLFE had Tid if so, no- is own judg- ch he made, ith every de- served with orth America , ships of fifty nailer vessels. were to meet whole was un- iders, who had jll and Charles ; the service of d wintered at i sailed for the ;ate of the na- se of interrupt- In this he was convoy seven- 1 d a few recruits, efore his arrival wever, he pcr- Ution. Having he River think-| ive bepn expect- y on board, and! dmiral Saunder< impelled to piM which, althouglil g^rievously, as may be supposed, aga^ist their will, they safely accomplished. Rear Admiral Holmes sailed on the 14th Febr i~ ary for Halifax, with orders to hasten the prepa- rations there and at Louisbourg; and on Sat^^day, the 17th February, Admiral Saunders sailed horn. Spithead with General Wolfe and the troops iiom England. The rendezvous was appointed at Louis- bourg ; but in consequence of that harbor being blocked up with ice, the fleet proceeded to Halifax. Here every exertion was made to forward the expe- dition ; and General Wolfe obtained the admiration and confidence of the army by the clearness and dis- tinctness of his orders, as well as by his personal activity and zeal. The transports having been pre- pared for sea, the fleet sailed for Louisbourg, where they were joined by the regiments in garrison, and by other reinforcements from the Bay of Fundy, making the whole force eight thousand men. On the 6th June, they got clear of the harbor of Louisbourg, and made sail for the River St. Law- rence. They reached Isle aux Coudres on the '23d, where they found Admiral Durell, who furnished the fleet with the French pilots whom he had detain- ed on board a month for that purpo . Admiral Durell, whose force was augmented with ^ome of the larger ships of war, remained at Isle aux Cov f'cs by order of Admiral Saunders, to prevent the c nemy from interrupting the siege on that side. On the 26th June, the fleet and transports came to anchor oflfthe Isle of Orleans. It may be here remarked, that as if the destiny of the French rule in North America was about to be accomplished, not the smallest disaster interrupted the progress of the English fleet and army up the w^% fi 328 NEW PICTURE OF JJUEBEC, j; '' -if t ;l .p^, • si' m 111; ..<> ■'1 ''iJ ■■;ii If I. 'Ill I' i i St. Lawrence. We have already mentioned the difHciilty with which Sir William Phipps made his way from the Gulf, in 1690 ; and have noticed the shipwreck and destruction of part of the fleet under Sir Hovenden Walker in 1711. Both those expe- ditions, however, were commenced at later periods of the season, when the navigation of the St. Law- rence is not altogether certain. Phipps arrived be- fore Quebec in the month of October, and Walker was ship ^'recked in the latter end of August. Ad- miral Saunders, in addition to the French pilots whom he had received from Durell, at Isle mix Cou- dres. naviijated the river bv the assistance of the most accurate charts then in existence ; and the skill of Captain Cook, afterwards so celebrated as a discoverer, was advantageously shown on this occasion.* The buoys in the Traverse below the * Captain James Cook, was born at Marton, in tlie County of York — the parish recrlster s^at<;s, that he was baptised No- veniltor 3, 1728, his father was day labourer to Mr. Newburn. Ill the year 1745, he was apprenticed for four years to a grocer at Snaith, about ten miles from Whitby — having discovered a strong propensity for the sea, his indentures were given up — he was afterwards bound for three years, to Mr. Walker of Whitbr, and sailed on board the Freelove, a vessel of about four hundred tons, engaged in the coal trade between Newcastle and London — he quitted the merchant service in 1752, and in order to try his fortune as he expressed it, entered on board His Majesty's ship Eagle, of 28 guns — nothing was heard from him by any of his friends, until August, 1758, when a letter uas received dated on board the Pembroke, before Louisbourg, July 30, 1758, in which he gave a distinct account of our success iu that expedition — on the recommendation of Sir Hugh Palliser he received the appointment of Master, and on the 10th May, 1750, joined the Mercury, then under orders for Canada. Sir Charles Saunders, at the siege of Quebec, committed to his care DiiKfe' WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLIiCTIONS. 329 sntioned the pps made his t noticed the e fleet under 1 those expe- later periods the St. Law- 3S arrived be- , and Walker August. Ad- French pilots ; Isle aux Cou- istance of the nee ; and the , celebrated as shown on this erse below the on, in the County WHS baptised No- r to Mr. Nevvburn. r years to a grocer aving discovered a s were given up-- to Mr. Walker of , a vessel of about between Newcastle cein 1752, and m t, entered on board in.r was heard from J, when a letter was re Louisbourg, July nt of our success ni f Sir Hugh Palliser i on the 1 0th May, rs for Canada. Sir m-aitted to his care Isle of Orleans had been removed by the French, but the passage had been so well explored by Ad- miral Durell, that the fleet got through without accident. Although the Marquis De Vaudreuil, who had been Governor of Louisiana, was at that time Go- vernor General of all New France, being stationed at Montreal with five thousand men, the milit-ary operations and defence of Quebec had been entrusted to the well known talents and bravery of tlie com- mander of the land forces, the Marquis De Mont- calm, already so distinguished by his former cam- paigns. He took every military precaution that a zealous and experienced General could take, to defeat the enterprize of the English, and to pre- serve the colony. He was in possession of a com- manding situation, of strong entrenchments, of a fortress almost impregnable — with an army com- posed of men combating upon their own soil, en« couraged by the veteran troops of France, and commanded by gallant, zealous and distinguished officers. In a military point of view the chances of war were all in favor of the French. But the Eng !ish were commanded by one who was a Hero in the truest sense of the word, undismayed by accumulated difficulties, and with an appetite for glory which no prospect of danger could afl*ect or deter. We can imagine the feelings with which Wolfe, iliaving safely landed his army on the 27th June, services of the first importance. Lord Colville, and Sir Charles Iboth patronised him, and by their recommendations he was ap- Ipointed to survey the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the coasts of jNewfoundland — he received a commission as Lieutenant, April |lst, 17G0, and was made ('aptain 25th May, 17G8. 2 E 3 330 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, ilBli near the Church of St. Laurent, on the Isle of Or- leans, — where they encamped in one line, about a mile from the shore — proceeded to the west end of the Island to reconnoitre the position of the enemy. It must be confessed that the view he then beheld was most magnificent and imposing. Amidst the native beauty of the scenery, the French army pre- sented its formidable front, extending along the sloping ground upon the north shore, and occupying the heights of Beauport, from Quebec on the right, to the cascade of Montmoienci on the left. 'J'he vil- lage of Beauport rose in the centre, among the bat- talions of Old France — the right rested upon the k>t. Charles, with the beautiful village of Charlesbourg in its rear — the left extended to the chasm of the Falls. The whole front was entrenched, and pro- tected from the English cannon — while all accessible points along the shore were occupied and defended by batteries, and by every means which the science of war provides. Beyond the right, a bridge had been thrown over the River St. Charles, in order to com- municate with the town and garrison. This was pro- tected by teles du pont and strong works at each end, as well as by two batteries, of eight guns each, mounted upon hulks, sunk in the channel. The enthusiastic spirit of Wolfe musthave comprehended all th3 strength of this position, and all the glory of surmounting it; nor could his gentle and highly cultivated mind have been insensible to the extreme! beauty of the scene, the tranquillity of which hisi operations were so immediately to disturb. Looking | upon the calm basin of the St. Lawrence, how aptly] mii^ht he have exclaimed : Bella, horrida bella, £t Tybrim multo spumantem san<);uine ccrno ! cordinj of the intrepil capes \ presagf It bl operatif possess! TON, S{ of the at Beai village I WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 331 Isle of Or- inc, about a : west end of f the enemy, then beheld Amidst the ch army pre- itr along the nd occupying 11 the right, to ?ft. 'l^he vil- inong the bat- l upon the St. Charlesbourg chasm of the :hed, and pro- le all accessible and defended ich the science )ridge had been 1 order to com- This was pro- works at each ight guns each, channel. 1 "^ 3 comprehended all the glory of tie and highly to the extreme ty of which his turb. Looking •ence, how aptly | m'jfuine ccrno ! The French army was composed of about thirteen thousand men, six battalions of which were regulars, and the remainder well disciplined Canadian Militia, with some cavalry and Indians. The right was under the command of Brigadier General the Baron l)e St, Ours, the centre of Brigadier General De Senezergues, and the left of M. Ilerbin. The garrison was commanded by M. De llamezay. Although the fleet had safely arrived at the place of disembarkation, no sooner were the troops on shore than it met with one of those storms of wind and rain which are frequent in the lliver St. Law- rence. The hurricane was of such violence as to do great damage to the transports, and boats of the fleet, by their driving on board each other. The element of fire was also employed for its destruction, but happily without success. At midnight on the 28th June, the enemy sent down with the tide seven fire ships, whose appearance at first was very for- midable, as they lay in the proper channel. The French crews, however, being anxious to get to land, fired the trains on board much too soon, which en- abled the fleet to prepare for their reception. Ac- cordingly they were grappled with, and towed clear of the shipping, with the characteristic coolness and intrepidity of British sailors. These repeated es- capes from imminent danger seemed to afford happy- presages of ultimate success and triumph. It being absolutely necessary for the combined operations of the two services, that the English should possess the command of the Basin, General Monck- TON, second in command, was detached on the night of the 29th with four battalions, with orders to land at Beaumont, and to clear the south shore from that village to Pointe Levi, which post he was to occupy if NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, and fortify — a duty which he accomplished with little opposition. Here he immediately erected bat- teries and works, the remains of which may be traced at the present day. In the mean time, Colonel Guv Carleton, afterwards Lord Dorchester, esta- blished himself at the western point of the Isle of Orleans, where he erected v^orks for the defence of the magazines, stores, and hospitals. Montcalm, who too late perceived the importance of the works at Pointe Levi, sent a corps of sixteen hundred men against them ; but these troops un- luckily for themselves, and for the English General, who was anxious to defeat so large a detachment, fell into confusion, and having fired upon each other instead of upon the enemy, returned in utter discom- fiture. The batteries were completed at intervals from Pointe Levi Church, where Monckton 'scamp was, to the heights immediately opposite to the Citadel ; and the Lower Town, together with the principal buildings of the Upper Town, was laid in ruins by their fire. After the surrender, it was found that 'upwards of five hundred houses had been des- troyed, a damage the more to be regretted as it fell upon the inhabitants only, very little injury having been done to the defences of the place. General Wolfe, perceiving that the ground to the eastward of the Falls of Montmorenci, on which rested the left flank of the French army, was higher than that on the enemy's side, determined to take possession of it ; and having passed the north chan- nel, he encamped there on the 9th July, not without severe skirmishing and considerable loss. Here he erected batteries which greatly galled the left of the French intrenchments. He was aware that there was a ford at the bottom of the Falls, through which WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 333 islied with reeled bat- ,V be traced olonel Guy ITER, esta- tlie Isle of defence of importance IS of sixteen troops un- ish General, detachment, n each other itter discom- at intervals kton's camp osite to the ler with the 1, was laid in , it was found id been des- tted as it fell njury having le ground to aci, on which y, was higher nined to take ; north chan- , not without )ss. Here he the left of the ire that there hrough which the hahitans pass at ebb tide ; and he liad also hopes that possibly means might be found of passing the River Montmorenci above, so as to fight with Montcalm on terms of less disadvantage than direct- ly attaciting his intrenchments. Admiral Saunders, having advanced his vessels nearer to the city, compelled the French naval force to proceed up the lliver to Batiscan, leaving their crews, however, who formed part of the garrison and were useful in serving the artillery. 80 great, in- deed, was the unanimity between the two services, and the desire of mutual co-operation, thn*" in order that General Wolfe might carry with him d) largo a body of troops as possible on landing at Irlontmo- ronci, the Admiral ordered all the marines to be landed on the Isle of Orleans, and to do duty in the works which had been erected there. On the ]8th July, at night, General Wolfe de- termined to proceed some distance up the river for the purpose of reconnoitring the banks above the town. With two men of war, two armed sloops and some troops, he safely passed the batteries of the |;(arrison ; and after a close observation found every accessible landing place protected by the enemy from Cape Diamond to Cape llouge. He could not lavoid coming to the conclusion, that even if he should etfect a landing, the body first put on shore could not he reinforced before it was attacked by the enemy's whole army. He seems, however, to have almost determined on making the attempt at St. Michel, about three miles from Quebec ; but finding the enemy suspicious of his design, and some artillery having been brought from the garrison to play upon the shipping, he was forced to relinquish his inten- jtion. The reader will find that circumstances finally i ."?i & Oc* .^^. w ^o^<^ '^"^' nO. ^ ^ w IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 11 U2. 12.0 1.25 i 1.4 1.8 m % /: ^w > ''>:) -(S^ '^ 7 HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 A^ NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, compelled the army to adopt this mode of attack, althoujrh at this period the General did not consider it advisable to attempt it. Colonel Carleton was ordered to land at Pointe aux Trembles with a detach- ment, where he was disappointed in finding the ma- gazines he had been led to expect ; and brought away only a few prisoners, for the sake of acquiring information. On Wolfe's return to Montmorenci, he con- ceived the design of attacking the Fr* nch in their entrenchments. This attack, which looking at the difficulties of the ground, appears to have been carefully considered and planned with judgment, took place on the 3lst July. It failed through want of caution and excess of courage on the part of the grenadiers, although the grounding of the boats upon the ledge, some distance from the shore, was, doubt- less the primary cause of the disaster. Time, which was precious — since the tide making would cut off I their retreat by the ford, if unsuccessful — was neces- sarily lost by this accident, and the troops were! thrown into some disorder. As soon as a new place of disembarkation had been found, the grenadiers, to the number of thirteen companies, supported by two hundred of the second Royal American Battalion,! made good their landing. Before, however. Briga- dier General Monckton*s corps, designed to sup- port them, could reach the shore, the grenadiersl rushed forward impetuously to the attack of the en-| trenchments in great disorder and confusion, occaj sioned by the hurry of landing ; and received sol severe a check from the enemy's fire, as to be obliged! to take shelter in a redoubt at the water's edgef which the French abandoned to them on their { vance, contenting themselves with a cannonadinj '1 WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. a35 ode of attack, d not consider Jauleton was I with a detacli- nding the ma- : and brought ie of acquiring renci, he con- Fr' nch in their L looking at the to have been with judgment, ed through want the part of the 31 the boats upon lore, was, doubt- r. Time, which ig would cut off jgful — was neces- the troops were )n as a new place the grenadiers, to supported by two| lerican Battalion, however, Briga- designed to sup- e, the grenadiers attack of the en-l confusion, occa- , and received so re, as to be obliged the water's edge liem on their ad th a caunonadinf from the entrenchment that commanded tlie re- doubt. In this situation these gallant men continued for some time under a most galling fire. Their officers, careless of their persons and regarding only their duty, fell in great numbers ; until at length General Wolfe, finding his object defeated, called off the grenadiers, and ordered them to form them- selves behind General Monckton's corps, which had landed in good order. The whole afterwarc^s reimbarked without further loss or molestation. Many affecting incidents occurred on this occasion. The English Officers, many of whom were unaccus- tomed to the nature of the warfare, particularly to the Indian mode of attack, fell easy victims to the unerring rifle of the latter ; yet never forgot their character as soldiers, or their honor as Englishmen. No disgrace attached to the soldiers — some instances of devotion occurred which would have done honor to ancient history. After the failure of the attack at Montmorenci, their share in which the grenadiers nobly redeemed at the subsequent battle of the Plains, Brigadier General Murray, afterwards Governor of Quebec, was detached up the river with twelve hundred men. After two unsuccessful attempts to land, he effected his disembarkation at Deschambaud, where he took a few prisoners, and burned a magazine, full of stores, provisions, and spare' clothing for the French army. From" the prisoners, they obtained gratifying intel- hgence from the army of General Amherst, who had been the first in motion of the three separate armies, and who had taken possession u5 Ticonderoga. Nor was this the only success. ^J hey also learned that Sir William Johnson had captured Fort Niagara, on the 25th July previous. The month 336 NEW PICTURE OP QUEBEC, of August was passed in various skirmishes, and in expeditions on both shores of the river, rendered necessary by the desultory hostilities of small parties of Indians and Canadians — in the conduct of which the inhabitants suffered unavoidably all the horrors of war. The despatches of General Wolfe and of the Admiral, from which the foregoing particulars are principally taken, were dated September 2d and 5th. He touches with delicacy upon his own severe illness, and describes feelingly, but with perfect self posses- sion and confidence, the difficulties which he expe- rienced : " The Admiral's despatches and mine would have gone eight or ten days sooner if 1 had not been prevented from writing by a fever. I found mysolf so ill, and am still so weak, thai I begged the general officers to consult together for the public utility, lliey are of opinion, that as more ships and provisions are now yet above the town, they should try, by conveying a corps of four or five thousand men, which is nearly the whole strength of the army, after the Points of Levi and Orleans are left in a proper state of defence, to draw the enemy from their present situation and bring them to an action. I have ac- quiesced in their proposal, and we are preparing to put it in execution. The Admiral and I have examined the town, with a view to a general assault ; but after consulting the chief en- gineer, who is well acquainted with the interior part of it, and after viewing it with the utmost attention, we found that, though the batteries of the Lower Town might be easily silenced by the men of war, yet the business of an assault would be little advanced by that, since the five passages leadin " To the uncommon strength of the country, the enemy have added, for the defence of the river, a great number of floating To tract fJ lieved,! liimseli ^!iii!!l„ ishes, and in r^er, rendered f small parties duct of which ,11 the horrors ?E and of the particulars are er 2d and 5th. I severe illness, ;ct self posses • ?hich he expe- dhave gone eight d from writing by 1 so weak, thai I her for the public lips and provisions ^', by conveying a s nearly the whole n and Orleans are enemy from their tion. I have ac- aring to put it in ,ed the town, with ting the chief en- rior part of it, and we found that, might be easily ess of an assault ve passages lead! njr efuUy entrenched, r the'ships, which lem and from the 11 this or any other lot propose to hira d promising so lit- y, the enemy have number of floating WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 337 batteries and boats ; by the vigilance of these, and the Indians round our posts, it has been impossible to execute any thing by surprise. We have had almost daily skirmishes with these savages, in which they are generally defeated, but not without loss on our side. By the list of disabled officers, many of whom are of rank, you may perceive. Sir, that the army is ranch weakened. By the nature of the river, the most for- midable part of this armament is deprived of the power of act- ing, yet we have almost the whole force of Canada to oppose. Ill this situation, there is such a choice of difficulties y that I am myself at a loss how to determine. The affairs of Great Britain, 1 know, require most vigorous measures ; but then the courage of a handful of brave men should be exerted only, where there is some hope of a favorable event. However, you may rest as- sured, Sir, that the small part of the campaign which remains shall be employed, as far as I am able, for the honor of His Majesty, and the interest of the nation, in which I am sure of being seconded by the Admiral and by the Generals, happy if our efforts here can contribute to the success of His Ma- jesty's Arms in any other part of America. I have, &c. James Wolfe." ■ Return of loss at the hatile of MontmorencL Killed. Wounded. Missing, Officers................ 11 46 Serjeants, 9 26 ' Drummers, 7 Rank and tile 162 371 . 15 .^ 182 650 15 PREPARATIONS FOR LANDING. ^ .»>: ri To the council of war alluded to in the above ex- tract from this famous despatch, it is generally be- heved, on contemporary information, that Wolfe himself proposed a second attack upon the entrench- 2 F ' IK I i r- 'i S!i!^::^ t 'I ■ i I : Hi; ■ n:,i 338 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, merits between Montmorenci and the River St. Charles. However gaUant such a design, and how- ever gloriously the martial spirit of Wolfe was displayed by the proposal, it appeared to the other general officers, who had never flinched in the hour of duty, so fraught with ruin and so big with dange- rous consequences, as rather to be declined than car- ried into execution. They protested, therefore, against that design ; and in their turn proposed to Wolfe to attack Quebec in the unexpected and surprising manner by which it was subsequently ta- ken, and which will be admired to the latest posterity. The honor of having proposed this plan in the coun- cil of war has been claimed by the family of Gene- ral TowNSHEND for their distinguished ancestor. Wolfe, having always his country's interest upper- most in his thoughts, like a true patriot gave up his own opinion, or rather instantly acknowledged the splendid design which had been suggested to him ; generously resolving to put it into execution, and to place himself at the head of the enterprise — well as- sured that he would be nobly seconded by the other Generals. Such conduct on both sides was highly I honorable to the officers present at this council, ail| of whom were young men, full of ambition, and the I desire of personal distinction. The failure at Montmorenci had made a deep im- pression upon the mind of Wolfe. He had a spiritl impatient of anticipated censure — unable to bearl disappointment, where he was conscious of having deserved success — and he cherished an eager desire to retrieve the laurels which he feared some miglitl think had fallen from his brow. His situation however, was such that he despaired of finding an opportunity ; he was often heard to sigh, and ob WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 339 1 le Iliver St. ign, and how- WoLFE was [ to the other ed in the hour o- with danjje- [ined than car- ed, therefore, [1 proposed to lexpected and bsequently ta- atest posterity, n in the coun- imily of Gene- sl\ed ancestor, interest upper- iot j^ave up his Lnowledged the gested to him ; ecution, and to prise — well as- jd by the other ies was highly this council, all ibition, and the lade a deep im- He had a spirit unable to bear icious of having n eager desire to ed some miglit His situation, ed of finding an ;o sigh, and ob- served to betray great inward agitation. His con- stitution, naturally delicate, gave way under his excitement ; which added to the great fatigues he had undergone, brought on a fever and dysen- tery, and for some time totally disabled him. Such was the aflfection of the whole army for Wolfe, that his sickness made a general 'mpression upon them ; and when his health, after ten days severe illness, permitted him to return to the camp, and once more to visit the guards and posts as usual, they gave the strongest proofs of the most heartfelt joy, and his presence infused fresh spirits into the troops. With a view to the ulterior operations above the town, several of the men of war had passed the batteries, without receiving much damage, on the 27th, 29th and 30th August ; and on the 1st Sep- tember, the sick and wounded were removed from Montmorenci, to the Isle of Orleans. By the 4tli September, the whole had left the camp at Mont- morenci and taken post at Pointe Levi. This move- ment, however, did not escape the notice of Mont- calm ; who on the 3d, detached two large columns to the northward, with the apparent design of crossing the upper ford, and of either attacking General Wolfe in his camp with diminished forces, part of the army having been already transported to Pointe Levi — or to fall upon his rear as he was quitting his camp, and incommode him in re-imbarking the troops. Wolfe, however, had so well digested his plan, that his operations were performed without any loss. No sooner were the French troops ob- served in motion, that General Monckton ordered a large detachment from his post at Pointe Levi to embark in boats, and to stand towards the Beauport shore. This feint had the desired effect, and Mont- si iK.! |i 340 KE\f PICTURE OF (QUEBEC, iii, I lillllllj'! Pi! P I I': » I |l ' PI II CALM recalled his two columns in haste. In the mean time General Wolfe, having" withdrawn his artillervj set fire to the camp, destroyed the works he had erected, and re-imbarked his troops without interruption, most of whom he ordered to encamp at Pointe Levi, the remainder on the Isle of Orleans. The latter afterwards joined the main body at Pointe Levi. The plan for landing under the heights of Abra- ham having been completely digested, a series of operations took place upon the south shore for the purpose of deceiving, and distracting the attention of the enemy. In this they were quite successful. On the 5th September, a corps of six hundred men marched up the south shore from Pointe Levi, at- tended by sloops carrying one month's provision. On the 6th, the main body received orders to march above the town, taking with them only one spare shirt, and one pair of stockings. They forded the River Etchemin, and proceeded to a spot, whence they embarked on board of the men of war and trans- ports, under the command of Admiral Holm'^a, who conveyed then some distance above Cape Diamond. General Montcalm did not suspect, from the small number of ships, that Wolfe had convey- ed his main body up the river. He contented him- self, therefore, with detaching Bougainville with two thousand men to Cape Rouge to watch their motions. On the 10th, the weather being wet, and the troops much crowded on board, they were landed on the south shore for exercise and refresh- ment, and marched to the Church of St. Nicolas where they took post, all their movements adding to the uncertainty of the French as to their destina- tion. Every preparation having been made — and WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 341 Admiral Saunders having engaged to co-operate by a feint attack upon the entrenchments at Beau- port — the eventful day approached when the blow was to be struck. Hear Admiral Holmes had the command of the naval force employed in covering die disembarkation, the immediate management of which was entrusted to Captain Chads, a name to this day distinguished in the Royal Navy. On the 12th September, General Wolfe issued the following order : " ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY's SHIP SUTHERLAND." " The enemy's force is now divided : nfreat scarcity of pro* visions is in their camp, and universal discontent among' the (Juua.ilans. The second oHicer in comnian Colonel Howe, the regiments o( Bragg, Kennedy, Lascelles, and AnstriUher, with a detachment of Hig-hlanders, and American Grenadiers, the whole beiuir under the command of Brigadiers Monckton and Murray, were put into the Hat-bottomed boats, and after some movement of the ships made by Admiral Holmes, to draw the attention of the enemy above, the boats fell down with the tide, and landed on the north shore, within a league of Cape Diamond, an hour before day break. The rapidity of the tide of ebb carried thera a Uttle below the intended place of attack, which obliged the light infantry to scramble up a woody precipice, in order to secure the landing the troops, by dislodging a Capt.iin's post, which defended the small intrenched pat the troops were to ascend. After a little tiring, the light infantry gained the top of the precipice, and dispersed the Captain's post; by which means, the troops, with a very little loss from a few Canadians and Indians m the wood, got up, and were immediately formed. The boats, as the}'^ emptied, were sent back for the second em- barkation, which I immediately made. Brigadier Murray, who i had been detached with Aiistruther^s battalion to attack the four gun battery upon the left, was recalled by the General, who now saw the French army crossing the Kiver St. CharlesA Geiierhl Wolfe thereupon began to form his line, having his right c these af fifrenadi and An Brigadi rear anc who WR which V coliectec advancii immcdia 1 formet l)V the ai Webb's subdivisi in their say had jj a very g{ bore it \\ their fire enemy w protected Mas com] ofZrt So and Indi battalion the rema; Rousilloi tie. Th. and we adniirab attention regard to less to t in good ed on thi yards, w where g? tragg\ bayonets received the opp( <'omnian( I'art of WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 347 al TOWNSIIEND r, dated, Camp le success of His action with the i town. above the town, eiiig secured, the irce, from Pointe ransports, which the 7th, 8th and Admiral Holmes, alon«r the north rowded, and the r to cantoon half ere refreshed, and nine?. The light riments of 7?ro<7^, a detachment of hole boinff under lurray, were put movement of the ! attention of the dc, and landed on liamond^ an hour febb carried them vhich obliged the pice, in order to r a Captain's post, he troops were to try gained the top I's post ; by which I a few Canadians mediately formed, for the second era- idier Murray, who ilion to attack the y the General, who Uiver St. Charles. is line, having his right covered by the Louisbourg grenadiers ; on the right of these again he afterwards brought Otway'a ; to the left of the grenadiers were iiragg's, Kennedy^^y Lascelles'Sy Highlanders, and Anstrtdher^s ; the right of this body was commanded by Brigadier Monckton, and the left by Brigadier Murray ; his rear and left were protected by Colonel Huwe^s light infantry, who was returned from the four gun battery before mentioned, which was soon abandoned to him. Gen al Montcalm having collected the whole of his force from tl.o Heauport side, and advancing", shewed his intention to llank our left, where I was immediately ordered with (General Ajnherst^s battalion, which I formed en potence. My numbers were soon after increased by the arrival of the two battalions of Royal Americans ', and Webb's was drawn up by the General, as a reserve, in eig-ht subdivisions with large intervals. The enemy lined the bushes in their front, with 1500 Indians and Canadians, and I dare say had placed most of their best marksmen there, who kept up a very galling, though irregular, fire upon our whole line, who bore it with the greatest patience, and good order, reserving their fire for the main body, now advancing. This tire of the enemy was, however, checked by our posts in our front, which protected the forming- our own line. The right of the enemy was composed of half the troops of the Colony, the battalions of Zrt Sarre, Languedoc, and the remainder of their Canadians and Indians. Their centre was a column, and formed by the battalions of Bearnsiw^ Gidenne. Their left was composed of the remaining" troops of the colony, and the battalion of lioyal Rousillon. This was, as near as J can guess, their line of bat- tle. They brought up two pieces of small artillery against us, and we had been able to bring- up but one gun ; which being admirably well served, galled their column exceedingly. My attention to the left will not permit me to be very exact with regard to every circumstance which passed in the centre, much less to the right ; but it is most certain that the enemy formed in good order, and that their attack was very brisk aiul animat- ed on that side. Our troops reserved their fire, till within forty yards, which was so well continued, that the enemy every where gave way. It was then our General fell at the head of f.ragg'sy and the Louisbourg grenadiers, advancing with their bayonets. About the same time, Brigadier (reneral Monckton received his wound at the head of Lasctlles's. In the front of the opposite bat'alions fell also Montcalm ; and his second in comniand is since dead of his wounds on board of our fleet. V&ti of the enemy made a second faint attack. Part took to 348 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, I :l III! some thick copse wood, and seemed to make a stand. It was at this moment that each corps seemed in a manner to exert itself, with a view to its own peculiar character. The grena- diers, Bragg'Sf and Lascelles's, pressed on with their hayonets. Brigadier Murray advancing with the troops under his cora- mand hriskly, completed the route on this side ; when the Highlanders, supported hy Anstruther^s, took to their broad swords, and drove part into the town, and part to the works at their bridge on the River St. Charles. , The action, on our left and rear, was not so severe. The houses, into which the light infantry were thrown, were well defended, being supported by Colonel Howe, who taking post with two companies behind a small copse, and frequently sal- lying upon the Hanks of the enemy during their attack, dro^ them often into heaps, against the front of which body I ad- vanced platoons of Amherst^s regiment, which totally prevented the right wing from executing their first intention. Before this, one of the Royal American battalions had been detached to preserve our communication with our boats, and the other being sent to occupy the ground which Brigadier Murrayh movement had left open, I remained with Arhersf^io support this disposition, and to keep the enemy's right, and a body of their savages, which waited still more towards our rear oppo- site the posts of our light infantry, waiting for an opportunity to fall upon our rear. This, Sir, was the situation of things, when I was told, in the action, that I commanded : I immediately repaired to the centre, and finding the pursuit had put part of the troops in disorder, 1 formed them as soon as possible. Scarce was this effected when M. De Bougainvilky with his corps from Cape JRougCy of 2000 men, appeared in our ioar. I advanced two pieces of aitillery, and two battalions towards him ; upon which he retired. You will not, J flatter myself, blame me for not quitting such advantageous ground, and risking the fate of a decisive day, by seeking afresh enemy, posted perhaps in the very kind of ground he could wish for, viz. woods and swamps. We took a great number of French officers upon the field of battle, and one piece of cannon. Their loss is computed to be about 1500 men, which fell chiefly upon their regulars. I have been employed, from the day of action, to that of the capitula- tion, in redoubting our camp beyond insult, in making a road up the precipice for our cannon, in getting up the artillery, preparing the batteries, . ud cutting off their communication with the country. The 17th, at noon, before we had any WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 349 battery erocted, or could have any for two or three days, a flag- of truce came out with proposals of capitulation, which I sent back ag-ain to the town,a!lovvinw thera four hours to capitulate, or no farther treaty. The Admiral had, at this time, brouji^ht up his large ships as intendinor to attack the town. The French officer returned at night with terms of capitulation ; which, with the Admiral, were considered, agreed to, and signed at ei>^ht in the morning, the I8th instant. The terms we granted, will, I flatter myself, be approved of by His Majesty, consi- dering the enemy assembling in our rear, and, what is far more formidable, the very wet cold season, which threatened our troops with sickness, and the fleet with some accident ; it had made our road so bad, we could not bring up a gun for some time ; add to this, the advantage of entering the town, with the walls in a defensible state, and the being able to put a gar- rison there strong enough to prevent all surprise. These, I hope, will be deemed sufficient considerations for granting them the terms I have the honour to transmit to you. The inha- bitants of the country come into us fast, bringing in their arms, and taking the oaths of fidelity, until a general peace de- termines their situation. 1 have the honour to inclose, herewith, a list of the killed and wounded ; a list of the prisoners as perfe^'t as I have yet been able to get it ; and a list of the artillery and stores in the town, as well as of those fallen into our hands at Beauport in con- sequence of the victory. By deserters we learn, that the ene- my are re-assembling what troops they can, behind the Cape Rouge ; that M. De Levy is como down from the Montreal side to command them ; some say he has brought two battalions with him ; if so, this blow has already assisted General Amherst. By other deserters we learn, that M. De Bougainvilley with 800 men and provisions, was on his march to fling himself into the town on the 18th, the very morning it capitulated, on which day we had not completed the investiture of the place, as they had broke their bridge of boats, and had detachments in very stronii: works on the other side of the itiver St. Charles. I should not do justice to the Admirals, and the naval ser- vice, if I neglected this occasion of acknowledging how much we are indebted for our success to the constant assistance and support received from thera, and the perfect harmony and cor- respondence, which has prevailed throughout all our operations, in the uncommon difficulties, which the nature of this country, in particular, presents to the military operations of a great extent, G 2 Ml ui m m If ill 350 NEW PICTURE OF J^UEBEC, and which no army can itself solely supply ; the immense labour in artillery, stores, and provisions ; the long^ watchings and at- tendance in boats; the drawini I iij !P ! 11 Artillery. — One Enj^ineer wounded, one Gunner killed, one Bombardier, one Gunner, five matrosses, wounded. *>- - . An Account of the guns, ^c. found vi Quebec on its surrender to His Majesty's troops: H Brass guns 6 { )0und er J. Brass mortars 13 ] nchos 1. ^H 4 (( 3. Do. howitzers 8 « 3. ^H 2 (( 2. Iron mortars 13 (( 9. ^B Iron sfuns 36 (( 10. 10 C( 1. ^^1 24 (( 45. 8 « 3. ^H 18 (i 18. r ■ « 2. ^H 12 « 13. Shells 13 Indies 770 ^H 8 it 43. " 10 150 ^H 6 (( 66. 8 and ) 90 ^H 4 t( 30. « 6 5 ^H 3 « 7. Brass petards 2 ^H 2 (( 3. With a considerable quantity of powder, ball, small arms and intrenching tools, &c. Ihe number of which cannot be ascer- tained. There have been also 37 guns and one mortar found on seve- ral batteries between St. Charles and Beauport. Letter from Vice-Admiral Saunders to the Right Honorable Mr, Secretary Pitt, September 20, 1 759. Sir, ' ■'' ■■ ■ \ ■ ' - I have the greatest pleasure in acquainting you, that the town and citadel of Quebec surrendered on the 18th instant, and I enclose you a copy of the articles of capitulation. The array took possession of the gates on the land side, the same evening, and sent safeguards into the town to preserve order, and to prevent any thing being destroyed ; and Captain Palliser, with a body of seamen, landed in the Lower Town, and did the same. The next day, our army marched in, and near a thousand French officers, soldiers, and seamen, were embarked on board some English catts, who shall soon proceed for France, agreeable to the capitulation. I had the n nor to write to }ou the 5th instant, by the Mod- ney cutter : The troops mentioned in that letter, embarked on WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 353 ner hilled^ one ded. •* 'V on its surrender Inches (( (( C( (C tl 770 150 1. 3. 9. 1. 3. 2. 90 ; ..«■ ... small arms and cannot be ascer- ir found on seve- light Honorable you, that the he 18th instant, itulation. The id side, the same ) preserve order, Captain Pa//2ser, r Town, and did in, and near a , were embarked ooD proceed for ant, by the Rod- er, embarked on board the ship? and vessels above the town, in the nig-ht of the 6th instant, and at four in the morninj*" of the 13th, beir-in to land on the north shore, about a mile and a half above the town. General Montcalm, with his whole army, left their camp at Beauporty and marched to meet him. A little before te i both armies were formed, and the enemy bejfan the attack. Our troops received their lire, and reserved theii' own, advancing* till they were so near as to run in upon them, and push them with their bayonets; by which, in a very little time, the French {Ifave way, and fled to town in the utmost disorder, and with ^reat loss ; for our troops pursued thera quite to the walls, and killed many of them upon the g-lacis, and in the ditch ; and if the town had been further off, the whole French army must have been destroyed. About 250 French prisoners were taken that day, among" whom are ten Captains, and six Subaltern officers, all of n'hora will g-o in the ^reat ships to England. I am sorry to acquaint you, that General Wolfe was killed in the action ; and General Monchton shot throug-h the body ; but he is now supposed to be out of danger. General Mont- calm , and the three next French officers in command, were killed; but I must refer you to General Townshend (who Avrites by this opportunity) for the particulars of this action, the state of the garrison, and the measures he is taking" for keeping possession or it. I am now beginning to send on shore the stores they will want, and provisions for 5000 men ; of which I can furnish them with a sufficient quantity. The night of their landing. Admiral Holmes, with the ships and troops, was about three leagues above the intended landing place : General Wolfs, with about half his troops, set off in boats, and dropped down with the tide, and were, by that means, less liable to be discovered by the French centinels, posted all along the coast. The ships followed them about three quarters of an hour afterwards, and got to the landing- place just in the time that had been concerted, to cover their landing ; and considering the darkness of the night, and the rapidity of the current, this was a very critical operation, and very properly and successfully conducted. When General Wolfe, and the troops with him, had landed, the difficulty of gaining the top of the hill is scarce credible : It was very steep in its ascent, and high, and bad no path where two could go a-breust ; but thev were obliged to pull themselves up by the stumps and boughs of trees, that covered the declivity. 2 g3 354 NEW PICTURE or QUEBEC, M > i Immediately after our victory over their troops, I sent up all the boats in the fleet with artillery, and ammunition ; and on the 17th went up with the men o? war, in a disposition to attack the Lower Town, as soon as (jeneral 2'ownshend should be ready to attack tiie upper ; but in the evening they sent out to the camp, and offered terms of capitulation. I have the farther pleasure of acquainting you, that, during this tedious campaign, there has continued a perfect good un- derstanding between the army and navy. I have received great assistance, from Admirals Durell and Holmes, and from ail the Captains; indeed every body has exerted themselves 'n the execution of their duty ; even the transports have willingly assisted me with boats and people on the landing the troops, and many other services. I have the honor to be, &c. Charles Saunders. THE BATTLE OF THE PLAINS DEATH OF WOLFE. Any one who visits the celebrated Plains of Abra- ham, the scene of this glorious fight — equally rich in natural beauty and historic recollections — will admit that no site could be fo?ind better adapted for displaying the evolutions of military skill and dis- cipline, or the exertion of physical force and deter- mined valor. The battle-ground presents almost a level surface from the brink of the St. Lawrence, to the St. Foy road. The Grande-Allee^ov road to Cape Rouge, running parallel to that of St. Foy, passed through its centre, — and was commanded by a field redoubt, in all probability the four-gun battery on the English left, which was captured by the light infantry, as mentioned in General Townshend's letter. The remains of this battery are distinctly seen near to the present race-stand. There were also two other redoubts, one upon the rising ground, 1 1 ; WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 355 [lunition ; and Saunders. OF WOLFE. in the rear of Mr. C. Campbell^s house — the death scene of Wolfe — and the other towards the St. Foy road, which it was intended to command. On the site of the country seat called Marchmont, the pro- perty of the Honorable J. Stewart, and at present the residence of Mr. Daly, Secretary of the Province, there was also a small redoubt, commanding the intrenched path leading to the Cove. This was ta- ken possession of by the advanced guard of the light infantry, immediately on ascending the heights. At the period of the battle, the Plains were without fences or enclosures, and extended to the walls to the St. Lewis side. The surface was dotted over with bushes, and the woods on either flank were more dense than at present, affording shelter to the French and Indian marksmen. In order to understand the relative position of the two armies, if a line be drawn to the St. Lawrence from the General Hospital, it will give nearly the front of the French army at ten o'clock, after Montcalm had deployed into line. His right reached beyond the St. Foy road, where he made dispositions to turn the left of the English. Another parallel line, some- what in advance of Mr. C. G. Stewart's house on the St. Foy road, will give the front of the British army, hefore Wolfe charged at the head of the grena- diers of the 22d, 40th, and 45th regiments, who had acquired the honorable title of the Louisbourg Gre- nadiers, from having been distinguished at the capture of that place, under his own command, in 1758. To meet the attempt of Montcalm to turn the British left. General Townshend formed the 15th regiment en Ipotence, or presenting a double front. The light I infantry were in rear of the left, and the reserve was fe-'".>. is«?,- 356 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, placed in rear of the right, formed in eight sub- divisions, a good distance apart. The English had been about four hours in posses- sion of the Pla* and were completely prepared to receive them, wli , . the French advanced with great resolution. They approached obliquely by the left, having marched from Beauport that morning. On being formed, they commenced the attack with great vivacity and animation, firing by platoons. It was observed, however, that their fire was irregular and ineffective, whereas that of the English was so well di- rected and maintained, as to throw the French into immediate confusion. It must be stated, that al- though the French army was more numerous, it was principally composed of colonial troops, who did not support the regular forces as firmly as was expected of them. Montcalm, on his death bed, expressed him- self bitterly in this respect. The English troops, on the contrary, were nearly all regulars, of approved courage, well officered and under perfect discipline. The grenadiers burned to revenge their defeat at Montmorenci ; and it was at their head that Wolfe, with great military tact, placed himself at the com- mencement of the action. About eight o'clock, some sailors had succeeded | in dragging up the precipice a light six-pounder, which, although the only gun used by the English in I the action, being remarkably well served, played with great success on the centre column as it ad- vanced, and more than once compelled the enemy to change the disposition of his forces. The French had two field pieces in the action. The despatches mention a remarkable proof of coolness and presence of mind, on the part of troops who had no hopes but in victory, no chance of safety but in beating the [ere ahoi le breast WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 357 enemy — for liad they been defeated, re-embarkation would have been impracticable. The Eiiirlish were ordered to reserve their fire until the French were within forty yards. They observed these orders most strictly, bearini^ with patience the incessant fire of the Canadians and Indians. It is also stated that Wolfe ordered the men to load with an additional bullet, which did ^reat execution. The two Generals, animated with equal spirit, met each other at the head of their respective troops where the battle was most severe. Montcalm was on the left of the French, at the head of the regi- ments of Languedoc^ Beanie and Gulenne — Wolfe on the right of the English, at the head of the 28th, and the Louisbourg Grenadiers. Here the greatest exertions were made under the eyes of the leaders -the action in the centre and left was comparatively [a skirmish. The severest fighting took place be- Itween the right of the race-stand and the Martello owers. The rapidity and effect of the English re having thrown the French into confusion, or- ers were given, even before the smoke cleared away, _o charge with the bayonet. Wolfe exposing him- elf at the com-B j^ ^^ ^^^ 1^^^^ ^^^j^^ battalions, was singled out by A rlfr"^® Canadian marksmen, on the enemy's left, and had succee a^^l already received a slight wound in the wrist. Re- ht six-poun J a^^.^^jlggg ^£ j.j^jg^ ^^^ unwilling to dispirit his troops, the ^ng 1 Bg fyUg^j ^ handkerchief round his arm, and putting served, piaye Bj^ggif ,^^ ^^^^ j^g^^^l q£ |.jjg grenadiers, led them on )iumn as 1 B^ ^.j^^ charge, which was completely successful. It ed the enemy to Bj^^^^^^j^^^^^^^^ ^.^j^ ^^^^ ^.^^^ of their heroic J he ^^^" -fcder. He was struck with a second ball in the The despatc ^ Joia ; but still pressed on, and just as the enemy ess and presenc ■gj.g j^j-^^j^j. ^^ ^j^^ ^^^^ 1^^ received a third ball in ad no hopes Du ■ ^^ ^^ ^ ^ mortally wounded. Dear, indeed, ' in beating thef ^ ' ' [I eight sub- jrs in posses- y prepared to ed with great y by the left, norning. On ick with great oons. It was irregular and was so well di- le French into tated, that al- merous, h was ps, who did not rtras expected of expressed him- glish troops, on j-s, of approved rfect discipline. their defeat at id that Wolfe, 358 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, i I H! Pii was the price of a victory purchased by the death of Wolfe — of a hero, whose uncommon merit was scarcely known and appreciated by his country, be- fore a premature fate removed him for ever from her service. It might have been said of him, as of Mar- cellus, Ostendent terris hiinc tantum fata, neque ultri Esse sinent. Nimium vobis Romana propagfo Visa potens, superi, propria hajo si dona tuissent. He met, however, a glorious death in the moment of victory — a victory which in deciding the fate of Canada, commanded the applause of the world, and classed Wolfe among the most celebrated Generals of ancient and modern times. Happily, he survived his wound long enough to learn the success of the day. When the fatal ball took effect, his principal care was, that he should not be seen to fall. — " Sup- port me," — said he to an officer near him, — " let not! my brave soldiers see me drop. The day is oursj keep it !" He was then carried a little way to the rear, where he requested water to be brouglitl from a neighboring well to quench his thirst. Thel charge still continued, when the officer — on whose! shoulder, as he sat down for the purpose, thel dying hero leaned — exclaiming, " They run ! theyl run !" — " Who run ?" asked the gallant Wolfe,! with some emotion. The officer replied, — " Thel enemy, Sir : they give way every where !"- " What ?" said he, " do they run already ? Pray,| one of you go to Colonel Burton, and tell hin to march Webb's regiment with all speed down t(j St. Charles River, to cut off the retreat of the fugij tives from the bridge. — Now, God be praised, I m HAPPY !" So saying the youthful hero breathed hii WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 359 the death of m merit was country, be- ever from her m, as of Mar- last. He reflected that he had done his duty, and he knew that he shoukl live for ever in the memory of a grateful country. His expiring moments were cheered with the British shout of victory, pulchrumque mori succnrrit in armis. e iiUri ropago ji tuissent. in the moment ng the fate of Such was the death of Wolfe upon the Plains of Abraham, at the early age of thirty-two years ! It has been well observed, that "a death more glorious and attended with circumstances more picturesque and interesting, is no where to be found in the an- nals of history." His extraordinary qualities, and the world andl^ingular fate, have afforded a fruitful theme ofpane- ' ted Generals Hgyric to the historian and the poet, to the present 1 he survived B^^y* How they wpre appreciated by his gallant » oess of the^"'^P^^^o"S in arms, may be learned by the subjoin- t his principal 1^^ ®*^^^^^^ from a letter written after the battle by ^ ' f. 11 ___« Sup"l^^"^^''^^ afterwards Marquess, Townshend, to one of I him — " ^et not ^K dav is ouTSjPo you, that my heart does not exult in the midst of Vttle way toW'J^ success. I have lost but a friend in General be brouglitB^^'oLFE. Our country has lost a sure support, and 1 • *i ;«cf Thp» perpetual honor. If the world were sensible at his thirst. iuBB"t' r . \ a r^, • i- nj. ^ whoseP^^ ^^^r a price we have purchased C^uebec in his rnose theP^^tl^j it would damp the public joy. Our bestcon- \ run ' theyt^^^^o" is, that providence seemed not to promise 11 t WoLFE,t^t he should remain long among us. He was him- 5 ,.1 (c "XheB^lf sensible of the weakness of his constitution, and where l"-B^termined to crowd into a few years, actions that 1 A^r7 Prsivwoiild have adorned length of life." The feeling already { iraw • ^u- u ^ir • i c J <-oll h niB"^ aiiectina: manner m which Wolfe is spoken or 1, and tell a\m . . , ^ » j •. i l- - ^ c 1 d down toB' this letter, and its elegance or expression, conrer "*! p fiio fiiffifciial honor upon the head and heart of the ac- :reat or tne i»s'«^ i- i i v mi i • i i -n , ised I DW^iphshed writer. 1 he classical reader will agree ^ breathed IW^^ us in thinking, that he had in his mind at the in 360 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, id IF time the eulogy of Marcellus which we have quoted above. The spot consecrated by the fall of General Wolfe, in the charge made by the grenadiers upon the left of the French line, will to the latest day be visited with deep interest and emotion. On the highest ground considerably in advance of the Mar- telio Towers, commanding a complete view of the field of battle — not far from the fence which divides the race-ground from the enclosures on the east, and opposite to the right of the Eriglish — are the remains of a redoubt against which the attack was di | reeled which Wolfe so gallantly urged on by his per- sonal example. A few years ago a rock was pointedl out, as marking the spot where he actually breathed hi: last ; and in one of the enclosures nearer to the road isl the well whence they brought him water. It is men- tioned in the statistical work of Colom^l Bouchette, that one of the four meridian stones, placed inl 1790 by Major Holland, then Surveyor General ofl Canada, " stood in the angle of a field redoubt wheref General Wolfe is said to have breathed his last."! As he had been conveyed a short distance to the rear! after being struck with the fatal ball, it must be pre-l sumed that this redoubt had been capiured ; andj that the grenadiers were pressing on, when he receiv- ed his mortal wound. This is corroborated by a letterl which we have met with, written after the battle byf an officer of the 28th regiments serving at the timel as a volunteer with the Louisbourg Grenadiers un- der Colonel Murray. He speaks of the redoubt inl question as ** a rising ground," and shows tliatf Wolfe was in possession of it previously to his lasj wound : " Upon the Cieneral viewing the position ol the two armiep, he took notice of a small rising WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. J361 ^hich we have ground between our right and the enemy's left, which concealed their motions from us in that quar- ter, upon which the General did me the honor to detach me with a few grenadiers to take possession of that ground, and maintain it to the last extremity, which I did until both armies were engaged, and then the General came to me ; but that great, that ever memorable man, whose loss can never be enough regretted, was scarce a moment with me till he re- ceived his fatal wound." The place is now, however, about to be marked to posterity by the erection of a permanent memorial. Permission has been given to the writer of this ac- count, to announce the intention of His Excellency the Lord Aylmer to erect a small column on the spot where Wolfe expired. This act of soldier-like generosity will be duly appreciated ; and posterity will have at last amply redeemed their long neglect, and wiped away a reproach of more than seventy years duration. The Monument in Quebec, common to Wolfe and Montcalm — the stone placed in the Ursuiine Convent in honor of the latter — and the smaller column on the Plains, died with the blood of Wolfe, will form a complete series of testimonials — honorable to the spirit of the age, and worthy of the distinguished individuals under whose auspices they have been executed. The memorial on the Plains will bear the follow- ing inscription : here died ! ' WOLFE: IN THE ARMS ' '' ^'^ OF VICTORY. i H 2 !ili i U'A 362 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, DEATH OF MONTCALM. A death no less glorious closed the career of the brave Marquis De Montcalm, who commanded the French army. He was several years older than Wolfe, and had served his King with honor and success in Italy, Germany, and Bohemia. In the earlier campaigns of this war he had given signal proofs of zeal, consummate prudence and undaunted valor. At the capture of Oswego, he had with his own hand wrested a color from the hand of an Eng- lish officer, and sent it to be hung up in the Cathe- dral of Quebec. He had deprived the English of Fort William Henry ; and had defeated General Abercrombie at Ticonderoga. He had even foil- ed Wolfe himself at Montmorenci ; and had erected lines which it was impossible to force. When, therefore, he entered the Plains of Abraham at the head of a victorious army, he was in all respects an antagonist worthy of the British General. The intelligence of the unexpected landing of Wolfe above the town was first conveyed to the Marquis De Vaudreuil, the Governor General, about day-break. By him it was communicated without delay to Montcalm. Nothing could ex- ceed the astonishment of the latter at the intelligence — he refused at first to give credence to it, observ- ing : — " It is only Mr. Wolfe with a small party, come to burn a few houses, look about him and re- turn." On being informed, however, that Wolfe was at that moment in possession of the Plains of Abraham,—" Then,"— said he, " they have at last got to the weak side of this miserable garrison. Therefore we must endeavor to crush them by our WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 363 career of the ximanded the s older than ,h honor and ■mia. In the given signal nd undaunted ) had with his id of an Eng- n the Cathe- le English of ;ated General had even foil- ci ; and had force. When, braham at the ,11 respects an ral. id landing of nveyed to the rnor General, communicated ing could ex- le intelligence to it, observ- a small party, t him and re- ^ that WoiFE f the Plains of y have at last able garrison, h them by our numbers, and scalp them all before twelve o'clock.'* He issued immediate orders to break up the camp, and led a considerable portion of the army across the River St. Charles, in order to place them between the city and the English. Vaudreuil, on quitting the lines at Beauport, gave orders to the rest of the troops to follow him. On his arrival at the Plains, however, he met the French army in full flight to- wards the bridge of boats ; and learned that Mont- calm had been dangerously wounded. In vain he attempted to rally them — the rout was general — and all hopes of retrieving the day, and of saving the honor of France were abandoned. Montcalm was first wounded by a musket shot, fighting in the front rank of the French left, — and afterwards by a discharge from the only gun in the possession of the English. He was then on horse- back, directing the retreat — nor did he dismount until he had taken every measure to ensure the safety of the remains of his army. Such was the impetuosity with which the Highlanders, supported by the 58th regiment, pressed the rear of the fugitives, — having thrown away their muskets and taken to their broad swords, — that had the distance been greater from the field of battle to the walls, the whole French army would inevitably have been destroyed. As it was, the troops of the line had been almost cut to pieces, when their pursuers were forced to retire by the fire from the ramparts. Great numbers were killed in the retreat, which was made obliquely from the River St. Lawrence to the St. Charles. Some severe fighting took place in the field in front of the Mar- tello Tower, No. 2. We are informed by an officer of the garrison, that, on digging there softie years ago, a number of skeletons were found with parts of sol- 1!l liil 364 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, diers' dress, military buttons, buckles, and other re- mains. It is reported of Montcalm, when his wounds were dressed, that he requested the surgeons in atten- dance to declare at once, whether they were mortal. On being told that they were so, — " I am glad of It," — said he. He then enquired how long he might survive. He was answered, — "Ten or twelve hours, perhaps less." — " So much the better," — replied he, — " then I shall not live to see the surrender of Quebec." On being afterwards visited by M. De Ramesay, who commanded the garrison, with the title of Lieutenant de Roi, and by the Commandant de Houssillon, he said to them — " Gentlemen, I commend to your keeping the honor of France. Endeavor to secure the retreat of my army to-night beyond Cape Rouge : for myself, I shall pass the night with God, and prepare myself for death." On M. DE Ramesay pressing to receive his commands respecting the defence of Quebec, Montcalm ex- claimed with emotion : — " I will neither give orders, nor interfere any further : I have much business that must be attended to, of greater moment than your ruined garrison, and this wretched country. — My time is very short — so pray leave me. — I wish you all comfort, and to be happily extricated from your present perplexities." He then addressed him- self to his religious duties, and passed the night with the Bishop and his own confessor. Before he died, he paid the victorious army this magnanimous com- pliment ; — " Since it was my misfortune to be dis- comfited and mortally wounded, it is a great conso- lation to me to be vanquished by so brave and generous an enemy. If I could survive this wound, I would engage to beat three times the number of M m WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 365 nd other re- 1) such forces as I commanded this morning, with a tliirct of British troops." Almost his last act was to write a letter, recommend- ing the French prisoners to the generosity of the vic- tors. He died at iive o*clock in the morning of the 14th September ; and was buried in an excavation made by the bursting of a shel' within the precincts of the tJrsuline Convent — a fit resting place for the remains of a man who died fighting for the honor and defence of his country. Besides the similarity of their fate, there was a re- markable coincidence in the prominent points of the characters of Wolfe andMoNTCALM. As competitors for victory and fame, they had equal merit ; and both eminently possessed those military qualities which are necessary to attain success. Equally gallant, zealous, and devoted to their country — animated with the same love of glory — they were in other respects similarly situated. Each had received literary cul- tivation before he entered the military liervice. Wolfe left a widowed mother, his father having died in the same year, — Montcalm in addition to a mother, left behind him a widow and children. These, with an attachment to his unstained memory which cannot be too highly esteemed, defended the fame of Montcalm from the insinuations contained in the calumnious defence of the Intendant Bigot, who was arraigned for the mal-practices of his finan- cial administration. They succeeded in fully vin- dicating the memory of their son and husband ; and their triumphant refutation was made by the French Government as public as were the calumnies. It is due to the military character of Montcalm to state, that he did not at first despair of the French cause, notwithstanding his own wounds and the loss 2 H 3 >' i I I! 366 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, of the battle. He declared to the council of war, that twelve hours would suffice to re-assemble the troops at Cape Rouge, and others scattered at a dis- tance from the field of battle — to re-unite them to the beaten forces, and to those who had not been en- gaged — and to attack the victorious army with far superior numbers, before they had secured them- selves by entrenchments. This spirited advice was not acted upon by the council of war. Vaudreuil commenced a disorderly retreat towards Montreal, by way of Indian Lorette, compelling the Hurons to accompany him ; notwithstanding which apparent act of hostility, the Indian Village remained unin- jured by the English. ' There is no record in history of so important a victory being gained with so trifling a loss on the part of the conquerors. The English had only forty five rank and file killed, and five hundred and six wounded. The total loss, including officers of all ranks, was six hundred and sixty-four. The loss of the French amounted to fifteen hundredkilled, wound- ed and prisoners, among whom were many officers. General Monckton, who succeeded to the com- mand on the fall of Wolfe, was almost immediately shot through the lungs, at the head of the 47th re- giment, where he had been greatly distinguished. The command then devolved on General Towns- HEND, who had been engaged on the left. Colonel Guy Carleton, Quarter Master General, k ceived also a severe wound in the head. The Adjutant General, Major Barre', afterwards Secretary at War, and a distinguished member of the British Parlia- ment, was also wounded. ... . The French General Officers were even more un- fortunate. The Baron De Senezuerges, second in WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 367 incil of war, assemble the ered at a dis- mite them to not been en- irmy with far ecured them- jd advice was Vaudreuil is Montreal, the Huronsto hich apparent jmained unin- so important a a loss on the had only forty indred and six officers of all The loss of killed, wound- many officers, ed to the com- st immediately >f the 47th re- distinguished, ■neral Towns- xcft. Colonel neral, r( ceived The Adjutant cretary at War, British Parlia- even more un- iGES, second in command, was mortally wounded, and being taken prisoner, died on board the fleet the next day. The Baron De St. Ours also died of his wounds. General Tow.^shend had the honor of finishing the battle ; and preserved such an appearance of good order and strength, that Bougainville, who had advanced from Cape Rouge with two thousand fresh troops, thought it most prudent to retire. The battle of the Plains was, therefore, gained — the English remained masters of the field. Gene- rals TowNSHEND and Murray then performed the gratifying duty of going to the head of every regiment, and thanking them for their gallant con- duct. The following days were employed in en- trenching the camp, and in erecting batteries against the town. On the 17th, however, propo- sitions were made, which were accepted and ratified on the iJ^th, and Quebec surrendered to the British arms. , ,-"■ '■ : ' ..■ \ - , .-' • : ■ "--■■ . ;' v. The same day Lieutenant Colonel Murray, com- manding the Louisbourg Grenadiers, with three companies of his battalion, a piece of cannon, and a I detachment of Royal Artillery, took possession of the Gates and of the Upper Town. The British stand- lard was hoisted on the highest part of the fortifica- Itions. The Lower Town was occupied by Captain jHuGH Palliser, and a body of seamen detached by Admiral Saunders. The French garrison march- ed out with the honors of war, and with the prisoners who were not wounded, were embarked the next day [on board of transports for France. Thus was effected by an inferior force, and without lany assistance from the troops under General Am- Iherst, the surprising and almost miraculous capture lof Quebec, — a fortress nearly impregnable — while I jl m \i i i 368 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, M. De Levi, Governor of Montreal, was still at the head of a numerous army — while the fortifications were uninjured, and while the garrison was in com- munication with Bougainville, and in daily expec- tation of being reinforced with men, stores and pro- visions by that enterprising officer. Quebec having been reduced. General Towns- HEND sailed on his return to England, with Admiral Saunders. He had, indeed, accepted a commis- sion only to serve during t -*^ campaign, and under the express condition of returning at its termination. On their arrival in the channel, Saunders received intelligence of the Brest squadron having put to sea. Instead, therefore, of making an English port, he hurried to reinforce Admiral Hawke with three sail of the line, in which spirited resolution he was joined by Tov/nshend, who was his passenger.^ - A garrison of five thousand men, well furnished with provisions and stores, was left in Quebec under General Murray, fi .^ i , , u i , „; >; General Monckton soon recovered of his wounds at New- York, whither he had proceeded, and of which he was soon afterwards Governor. ^ I'', t '. .►, I'-vj^^' N) -• .^' I ■ •^ ■^'fi;." t ■ LIST ■Hi-. ■■\ u- . it. -. ■^ Of the Naval and Military force on the Expedition against Quebec, together with the General and Staff Officers. Twenty ships of the Line, two of fifty guns ; eight frigates; nine sloops ; three ketches ; three fire ships ; two armed ships; one cutter; one store ship. Charles Saunders, Commander in Chief, Vice Admiral of the Blue. - . . Philip Durell, Rear Admiral of the Red. '' ; ' Charle,^ Holmes, Rear Admiral of the White. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 369 xeneral Towns- ,d, with Admiral pted a commis- lign, and under t its termination. jNDERS received iving put to sea. English port, he E with three sail on he was joined nger. 1, well furnished n Quebec under ; _' ; J. ed of his wounds oceeded, and of Expedition against nd Staff Officers. uns ; eight frigates; j; two armed ships; LAND FORCES. Major General James Wolfe, Commander-in-Chief. C Honble. Robert Monckton, J) Colonels < Honble. George Townshend, > Brigadier Genls, ( Honble. James Murray. ) Lieutenant Colonel Guy Carleton, Quarter Master General. Major Isaac Barro, Adjutant General, p ( Horvey Smith, \ Aides do Camp to the Com man uapis. ^ rj,^^^^^ j3gi,^ J der-in.Chief. ^" ' *' C Richard Guillem, 1 Capts. ^ John Spittal, Ulaior^j ofRricrade I Hon. Richard Maitland, I ^^^^"^"^ *** Brigade. Lieut. Henry Dobson, J Capts. j i^^ii^^ ' ( Assistants to the Quarter Master Genl. Major Patrick Mackellar, Chief Engineer. , First Brigade, - - - Jlegiments, ■' 15th 43d . 48th 78th Second Brigade, 28th ^ . 47th 60th, 2d Bat Third Brigade, 35th - - ' ' 58th < General Monckton, Commanding Officers, Major Irvine, Lieut. Col. James, - Lieut. Col. Burton, Lieut. Coi. Eraser, General Townshend, Lieut. Col. Walsh, Lieut. Col. Hale, Major Prevost. General Murray, Lieut. Col Fletcher, Major Agnew, Lieut. Col. Young. 60th, 3d Bat. - • The Grenadiers of the above ten Regiments, Lt. Col. Carleton. ..^ fT'UiTf* c ) Lt. Col. Hon. Wni. Howe, At Corps of Liffht Infantry from f ^^^^ ,^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ the Regiments of the Line. A corps of Rangers John Bailing. Major George Scott. ef, Vice Admiral of 370 'i I NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, • 05 -.62 u CI 1 — 1 00» — (M;O0DC0OJ-tt^ Hp* «o (3 r: oc-^, (M CO .Deri's 2 H W -H « ^rt«OCOCO<©COCO»OW CM ^ • H M • oi CM o o »o »o » <» "^ eo 1"«H »oo»oaoooc50b-o -^ ft« • F^ = «< o a s 'sjdnininj(j f i-N p-H l-H 1— t ^— l-H CM o o • 55 'S)uearj3§ 05 (M "2" 5-0 i\ •SO^BJ^ o o o o o -^ o o c o o 1-^ O to CI H ■< H 'suodJSjng 1— i.-h.-hOO'-^OOOO o rft h (0 H H a -< '8Jd)S«^ O C fh F-4 o o o o o o o (M • jd)jBnf) 55S < a a 2 •s^uBjnfpv QO-HI— lO"-"©©©— •-• O w^ ij NN 'SuJulSU^ i0CDC»"*00i>«0«i0DO O p^ iOOS'-'iOC»»C*«0 — (N 00 OS o •sijuBua^naiq; ^i^ P-< (— < 1— t l-H o « s la's 3 — ^ •< •SUlB4dBf) 1 rfHiOiOOiO'^Tf^OJ'^t' Oi X !a4 •SiOlBJ\[ ^ „ ,- _ O O '-I o o o o iO a" S 55 •spuojoo -^i 1 00'~*0i-^'-"'~'0'-^0 i~* «o H 1^ a •siauofOfj 1 ^<-iCOOOO-^00 o :o • wk ► * * > H CO • 1 «^ « H« 52 H • J 2- 'A ~ M o a % :».* ^ . « *j H ; © O "3 a> — (4 u +J • • >» as • :^.:«! eu ' js oB'g a g • bo a! 8 g o <&6^2^<^-^&^^-^ •sdjo^ "s H JO jaqoin^^ — (^; CO rjH ^ -t- lO o jt^^^ A WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 371 o 9i o o CM 00 J'-OCO(M0 1>0 •suSisiig S4u«ua?narj •^F-H-rf^Ort"© — COOOTti •SUlBjdB^ OM(M— "CMO(M'-'0(>< Q H (MC0OC0<-^O00"^W'f*C0 •s^unaljat;; O^^OOOO—'OO'— 'O •suJiJjsug s^uBua^nai'^ Oi~''~'0'-^COOOi^'--< •suiB^de;;) •s^uaraiSay^ lo CVJ •papuno^ 9UQ lO o JO O^OtNCNO — CMOMO j — CO OOCOOO — OOOO I — o OOOCOOOOO — O 1^ ■ ft I < Bat. Bat. • • > c o ■ : t3 -o . (M en ; 1 ♦rf *j 'C 00 »0 CO f>i CO -+ +j *j *j *j rZj 2 i^ ao 00 o QO 9 -^ rj- »o o ^: hJ o s I CO a ei >.< -a sa 3 J3 H bo V) 'a a ce 4/ s O V 1—4 CO a 372 NEW ncTURE or Quebec, Strenotii of ill Fronch Army at tlu' Battle of Quebec, , , Kith Soptembor, 176!>. -i V * RIf;iIT rOMMN. Colony troops .^.^O llrjrt. of I.ii ^arro .WO Uc^rt. of lian^iiedoc .5.'>() Militia and I six pounder 400 2000 fENTRK. ., "T itegfimcntof Poarn 3(50 (•uieiine .'JGO Militia 1200 1920 LEFT COI.rMN. lleginient Hoynl Hou^sillon 650 ('olony Troops CM) Militia 2300 3600 Grand Total 7520 - " , ■-■■•-, • I'l-- 1 1 I III I! ( Ij i III The ^aval Force of the French consisted of the folio vviii<;| vessels : King's Frigates. Guns. L'Atalante 60 La Pomooe y. 32 MKRCHANT VESSELS. Le Machault 24 Le Seneclere 24 Le Dnc de Fronsac 24 Le Bienfaisant 24 The lovely Nancy 24 La Chezine 22 It 11' "> \ \'-*J :lc of Quebec, ...WO ■ ...500 ....5.50 ...400 __— 2000 WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 373 ', f M'. •• t I ,■* •. t- CHAPTER THE SIXTEENTH. ...300 ...300 ..1200 1920 0.50 0.50 ...2300 _ 3600 lid Total 7520 In onlcr to do ample justice to the interesting subject of which we now treat, and satisfied that no- thing which tends to illustrate the j^lorious canipai{;^n of 1759, will be read with indifference at the present (l:iy, we devote this chapter to a selection from the va« rious anecdotes and reminiscences, which have been handed down, relative to the chief actors in the eventful crisis which added anothc.' wreath to tlic national fame, and a new Province to the British Empire. V ,' MEMORABILIA OF 1750. ' ill ;d of the following Guns. ,...60 ....32 ....24. ....24 ,....24 24 24 22 ANECnOTE OF MR. I'lTT, AFTERWARDS EARL OF CIIATUAM. The followinf'' anocdote of Mr. Pitt, the Minister who se- lected Wof.FE as eminently Ht for the connmand of the expe- 1 dition ai^ainst Quehec, was communicated by his under Secretary j of State, Mr. Wood, to a friend of his, and is a striking- proof i(tf his honesty and energ-y of purpose. Mr. Pitt souf^ht out merit wherever he could find it ; and Iknowin'T that he could not give General Woefe a sutlicient Miimber of troops, he told him that he would make it up to him as well as he could, by giving him the appointment of all his (tfTicors. Wolfe sent in his list, in which was the name of an lorticer. Lieutenant Colonel Guy Carleton, who had unfortu- jiKitoly made himself obnoxious to the then King, by some un' guarded expression, concerning the Hanover troops, and which lliiul, by some officious person, been repeated to Ilis Majesty. I 2 374 NEW PICTURE OF OUEBEC, Lord Lifi^onier, then Commander-in-Chief of all His Majesty's land forces, took in the list to the King-, who, as he expected, made ohjections to a particular name, and refused to sig^n the commission. Mr. Pitt seni Lord Lijjonier into the closet a se- cond time, with no better success. His Lordship refused to g"0 in a third time at Mr. Pitt's su;rn, what he was directed tosay. The ^ood sense of this so completely disarmed his resentment, that lie signed the particular commission as he was requested. GENERAL WOLFE. General Jai\ies Wolfe was born January 2nd, 1727, in the Parish of Westerham, Kent. The County of York also claimed the honor of his birth, and there was a dispute on the subject. His father was Lieutenant General Edward VVolik, who died Colonei-in-Chief of the 8th Uetriraent, on ihe 27th March, in the same year with his illustrious son. He com- manded that Regiment at the battle of Culloden, in 17 J5. He was the second son — the eldest, Edwird, a youth of ^reat pro- mise, also entered the army, and died younoc in Germany. Another brother, younger than James, is mentioned as having been at Louisbour^. in the mismanajj^ed expedition against Rochford, under Sir John Mordaunt, in 1757, Wolfe was Quarter Master General with the rank of Lieutenaiit Colonel in the army. When the General's conduct came under examination, he was called Uj)oii as an evidem^e by both ])arties. The candor, precision, and knowledge of his profession, with which he delivered it, gained hini esteem ; and though only thirty years of age, his military talents in conversation appeared with such lustre as recoiii- niPiided him to the patronage of the Ministry, and of His Ma- jesty (Jeorge H. His gallant conduct at the capture of Louisnoi u(; completely established his fame, and led to his ap- pointment to the command of the expedition against Queukc. \^ WITH HISrORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 375 ill His Majesty's , as he expected, used to si^^n the o the closet a se- p refused to st amiable and accomplished lady, Catherine, daughter of Robert Lowther, Esquire, of Westmoreland, for- merly Governor of Barbadoes. Six years after the death of Wolfe, she became the wife of the last Duke of Bolton, and died in 1800. The letters of General Wolfe, amounting to more than two hundred, passed from the hands of his friend General Ward, whose family lived at Westerham, into those of Mr. Soutiiey, who has written the life of Wolfe, published in Murray's Family Library. We regret that this work has not yet fallen into our hands. An account of his life was published in 1759, by Kearslcy, the Bookseller, written by J. P., Master of Arts. THE NIGHT BEFORE THE BATTLE OF THE PLAINS. The late Professor Robinson, of Edinburgh, at that time a Midshipman in the Royal Navy, happened to be on duty in the boat in which General Wolfe went to visit some of his posts the night before the bat le. The evening was tine, and the scene, considering the work they were engaged in, and the morning to which they were looking forward, was sufficiently impressive. As they rowed along, the General, with much feeling, repeated nearly the whole of Gray's Elegy, — which had recently appeared, and was yet but little known — to an officer who sat with him in th<' stern of the boat, adding as he concluded, " that he would prefer being the author of that poem to the glory of !)eating the French to-morrow." To- morrow came, and the life of thisi illustrious soldier was glo-> 376 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, riously terminated amidst the tears of his friends, and the shouts of his victorious array : — " The paths of glory lead but to the grave !" THE LANDING PLACE. It appears from General Townshend's despatch that the landing was effected somewhat to the eastward of the entrench- ed path, now the winding road from Wolfe's Cove. This path after reaching Marchraont. crossed the Plains and joined the St. Lewis road where the entrance is at present to the course, The light infantry having ascended the precipice belovv the pathway, dislodged the guard, and thus enabled the first and second divisions to make use of the path, having freed it from its impediments. It was very fortunate that the landing was effected below the spot intended, as an alarm would otherwise have been given, and greater loss would hrtve been sustained in gaining the summit. The following anecdote is abridged from Smollett : " The PVetich had posted sentries along shore, to challenge boats, and give the alarm occasionally. The first boat being questioned accordingly, a Captain of Fraser's Regiment, who had served in Holland, and was perfectly well acquainted with the French language and customs, answered to Qui vit, which is their challenge word, La France. When the sentinel de- manded, a quel regiment ? — the Captain replied, De la Heine, which ho knew by accident, to be one of those commanded by Bougainville. The soldier took it for granted it was the ex- pected convoy, and saying, Passe, the boats proceeded without further question. One of the sentries more wary than the rest, running down to the water's edge, called out, Pourquoi est ce que vous ne parlez plus haut? — to which the Captain answered, with admirable presence of mind, in a soft tone of voice, Tai toi, nous serous entendus. Thus cautioned, the sentrv retired without further altercation." This officer's name frequently occurs, it was Captain Donald McDonald, of Fraser's Highlanders. ANECDOTE OF THE MOTHER OF WOLFE. A little circumstance, eloquently related, has been handed down, which shows a delicacy of sentiment, and a justness of thinking, not very commonly exceeded, even among persons iu the hig[her walks of life. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 377 s, and the shouts rrave !" espatch that the i of the entrench- [■e's Cove. This Plains and joined t present to the le precipice below abled the tirst and ,ing freed it from t the landing: was I would otherwise been sustained iu Smollett : [lore, to challenge } first boat being 's Reijiment, who II acquainted with to Qui vit, which the sentinel de- lied, De la Beine, )se commanded by ted it was the ex- )roceeded without re wary than the ed out, Pourquoi vhich the Captain in a soft tone of Lis cautioned, the This officer's laid McDonald, of VOLFE. has been handed and a justness of among persons iu The mother of General Wolfe was an object marked for pubh'c commiseration, by oreat and poignant distress. That which jrave cause of general exultation, could not but pierce hor breast with peculiar sorrow. In the accomplished ofticer, whom the country and the world admired, she had lost a dutiful aad afft'ctiouate son ; doubly endeared by his hiijh public me- rit, and by the amiable virtues that adorned his private life. He was her only son ; and within a few months she had lost liis father ! The populace of the villag-e where she lived, Westcrham, in Kent, unanimously agreed to admit no illumina- tion or firiniirs, or any sign of rejoicing whatever near hor house, lest they should seem by an ill-timed triumph, to violate the sacreduess of her grief. FUNERAL CEREMONIES OF WOLFE. ' \ The remains of the lamented Hero were brought to Eng- land for interment, with all honor and respect, on board the Royal William^ of 84 guns. At seven o'clock in the morninir of the 17th November, this vessel, lying iu Portsmouth harbor, fired two signal guns on the removal of the corpse. At eight o'clock, the body was lowered into a twelve oared barge, which was towed by two other twelve oared barges, and attended by twelve more, ta the end of the point, in a train of gloomy, silent pomp, which suited the melancholy occasion. During the solemnity, all the honors that could be paid to the memory of a gallant officer, were rendered to the remains of Wolfe. Minute guns were fired from the ships at Spithead, from the time of the body's Icijving the ship, to its being landed on the point at Portsmouth, which was one hour. The Regiment of Invalids was ordered under arms before eight o'clock ; and being joined by a company of the train in garrison at Portsmouth, marched from the parade there to the end of the point to receive the remains with military honors. At nine, the body was accord- ingly lauded, and placed in a travelling hearse, attended by a mourning coach, and immediately proceeded through the n:arrison. The colors in the Fort were struck half fiag-staflf : the bells vvern muffled, and rung ir. oioiemn concert with tho march. Minute guns were fired from the platform, from the entrance of the corpse to the end of the procession. Tho company of the train led the van, with arms reversed — tho corpse n<»xt — and the Invalids followed the hearse. They conducted the body to the Land-port gate, where the train open- 2 I 3 378 NEW PICTURE OF J^UEBEC, ed to the right and left, and the hearse passed through them on its way to London. Although there were many thousands of people assembled on this occasion, not the least disturbance happened. Nothing was to be heard but murmuring and broken accents in praise of the dead Hero. The corpse was privately interred at Greenwich, in the family vault, on the 20th November. !! ; i| I li! MONUMENT ERLCTED TO THE MEMORY OF GENERAL WOLFE, IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY. The subject is the tragic story of the General's death in the very moment of victory. He is represented in the last agonies of expiring heroism, with his hand closing the wound which the ball that killed him had made in his breast, and falling into the arms of a grenadier, who catches and endeavors to support him on his haunches, while with one hand he holds his feeble arm, and with the other points to glory, in the form of an Angel in the clouds, holding forth a wreath ready to crown him. On the pyramid, in relief, is the faithful Highland Serjeant who attended him, in whose countenance the big sorroWy at the mournful sight of his dying master, is so powerfully and pathe- tically expressed, that the most insensible human being cannot Jook upon him, without, in some sort, sh.iring in his grief. This monument does equal honor to the artist who designed it, and the sculptor by whom it was executed. Every part is masterly. The lions that rest upon the base, and the wolves' heads that ornament the flanks, are animated ; but, abo e all, the alt-relief that decorates the front,and represents the landing at Quebec, conveys such a lively view of the horrid rocks and precipices which the soldiers had to climb, and the sailors to surmount with the cannon, before they could approach to attack the enemy, that one cannot tell which most to admire, the bra- very of the troops, who could conquer under such diHiculties, or the art of the sculptor, who conld make a representation so striking. The inscription carries no marks of ostentation, but simply records the facts in the following words : To the memory of ' ' James Wolfe, Major General and Commandor-in-Chief Of the British Land Forces, On an expedition against Quebec ; Who having surmounted, WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 379 1 through them pie assembled on pened. Nothinn; accents in praise itely interred at »Joveraber. lENERAL WOLFE, 'al's death in the in the last agonies the wound which St, and falling into [leavors to support he holds his feeble e form of an Angel ly to crown him. iland Serjeant who big sorrow^ at the erfully and puthe- iraan being cannot ig in his grief. ;ist who designed ed. Every part is e, and the wolves* 8d ; but, abo e all, resents the landing e horrid rocks and and the sailors to approach to attack to admire, the bra- such difficulties, a representation so of ostentation, but )rds : n-Chief s. bee; - By ability and valour, All obstacles of art and nature. Was slain in the moment of victDry, On the 13th of September, 1759. The Kinff and Parliament of Great Britain Dedicated this monument. MONUMENT IN WESTERIIAM CHURCH. In April, 1760, a plain monument to the late General Wolfe was erected in the Parish ol Westerham, in the County of Kent, by some gentlemen of the vicinity. In the Inscription, which is here given, the extraordinary honor intended to his memory by the King and Parliament is alluded to, and the im- propriety of a more expensive monument in luat place justly 'hown. James Son of Col. Edward Wolfe and Henrietta his Wife, Was born in this FAk-ish, January 2nd, MDCCXXVII. And died in America, September the 13th, MDCCLIX. Whilst George in sorrow bows his laurelled head. And bids the artist grace the soldier dead ; We raise no sculptur'd trophy to thy name, Brave youth! the fairest in the list of fame. Proud of thy birth, we boast th' auspicious year, Struck with thy fall, we shed a general tear ; With humble grief inscribe one artless stone. And from thy matchless honors date our own ! I DECU8 I NOSTRUM. - . ^ CHARACTER OF WOLFE *BY SMOLLETT. The death of General Wolfe was a national loss, universally lamented. He inherited from nature an animating fervor of sentiment, an intuitive perception, an ex*^„nsive capacity, and a passion for glory, which stimulated him to acquire every species of military knowledge that study could comprehend, that actual service could illustrate and coniirm. This noble warmth of disposition seldom fails to call forth and unfold the liberal virtues of the soul. Brave above all estimation of dan- :l' III I 'n> il! 'f" If ff 380 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, jrer, he was also "[^enerous, g-entle, complacenf, and humane : the pattern of the oflicer, the darlinff of the soldier : there was a sublimity in hiso-enius which soared above the pitch of ordi- nary minds ; and had his faculties been exercised to their full extent by opportunity and action, had his judjjment been fully matured by aj^e and experience, he would, without doubt, have rivalled in reputation the most celebrated Captains of antiquity. CHARACTER OF MONTCALM. The ensuino^ sketch of Montcalm is extracted from Manuel's L'Annee Franfai^e: " Ce sont les sacrifices fiiits a la societe qui donnent des droits an souvenir de la posterity ; elle ne pent point oublier ce General. II est ne, il a vecu, et il est mort dans les camps. Son education n'en fut pas moins soij^-nee. II apprit la lanji^ue d'lTomere avant de prendre la lance d'Achille. Son esprit se developpoit comnic son courafje ; et %alement propre aux ba- tailles et aux academies, son liesir etoit d'unir aux lauriers de Mars les palmes de Minerve. Mais la f^uerre occupa presque toute sa vie ; avec des talens et de I'activite, on Tappeloit par tout oil il falloit commander et se battre. Chaque grade fat marque par des blessures; et en tres peu de tems, il merita d'etre a la tete des troupes dans TAmerique septentrionale. C'est la que se sont raontrees les qualites de ce Capitaine — c'est la qu'il a fait voir a quel dej^re il reunissoit la bravoure dii soldat et la grandeur d'amo du heros, la prudence du conseil et la celeritede I'execution ; le sang- froid que rien n'altere, cette patience que rien ne rebute, et cette resolution.courageuse qui ose repondre du succes dans des circonstances ou la timide speculation aurait a peine entrevu des resources. C'est la qu'au milieu dessauvages dont il etoit devenu le pere, on I'a vu se plier a leur caractere feroce, s'endurcir aux memes travaux, et se restreindre aux memes besoins, les apprivoiser par la douceur, l<»s attirer par la confiance, los attendrir par tons les soins de Thurailite, et faire dominer le respect et I'amour sur des ames egalement indociles an joug de I'obeissanceot lu freiii de la discipline. C'est la que des fatigues et des dangers sans nombre n'ont jamais rallenti son zele; tantot present a des spectacles dont i' idee seule fait fremir la nature ; tantot expose a manquer de tout, et souvent a mourir de faim. Reduit pendant onze mois a quatre onces de pain par jour, mangeant WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 381 du cheval pour donner Texemple, il fut le merae dans tons les teins, satist'ait de tout endurer. ** Un des Chefs Canadiens etonne que Ci'lui qui faisoit des prodin^es fut d'une petite taille, s'ecria la premiere fois qu'ii le vit — " Ah ! que tu es petit ! raais je vois dans tes yeux la hauteur du cheae, at la vivacite des aigles." Translation of a Letter from M. de Bougainville, Member of the Academy of Sciences, to the Right Honorable William Pitt. ed from Manuel's I Sir, The honore paid, during* your Ministry, to the memory of Mr. vVoLFE, give me room to hope that you will not disapprove of the grateful efforts made by the French troops to perpetuate the memory of the Marquis de Montcalm. The corpse of that General, who was honored with the regret of your nation, is buried at Quebec. I have the honor to send to you an Epitaph which the Academy of Inscriptions and Belles Lettres have wrote for him ; and I would beg the favor of you. Sir, to read it over, and if there bo nothing improper in it, to procure me a permission to send it to Quebec, engraved in marble, to put over the Marquis de Montcalm's tomb. If this permission [should be granted, may I presume, Sir, to entreat the honor of I a line to acquaint me with it, and at the same time to send me apassport, that the engraved marble may be received on board of an English vessel, and that Mr. Murray, Governor of Que- bec, may give leave to have it put up in the Ursuline Church. I ask pardon, Sir, for taking off your attention, even for a mo- ment, from your important concerns : but to endeavour to immortalize great men and illustrious citizens, is to do honor [to you. I am, &c. BOUGAINVILLE. Paris, March 24, 1761. Mr. F U^s Answer. I Sir, It is a real satisfaction to me to send you the King's con- Iscnt on such an interesting subject, a very handsome Epitaph [drawn by the Academy of Inscriptions atParis,for the Marquis ie Montcalm, which is desired to be sent to Quebec, engraved Dn marble, to be set up on the tomb of the illustrious warrior. S8-2 m I ;« !lii' >: III ! i. ! t! ■' Hi ,.::., '■jj ■ NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, The noble sentiments expressed in the desire to pay this tribute to the memory of their (leiieral by the French troops who served in Canudii, and who saw him tall at their head, in a manner worthy of*him and worthy of them, cannot be too much apphiuded. I shitll take a pleasure, Sir, in facilitatinj!^ a desi" 'i ',' *. .;;•' 384 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, li ifi:; iff He more than once repulsed the enemy's forces, And made himself master of their Forts * lleplete with troops and ammunition. Inured to cold, hunjirer, watchin"- and labours. Unmindful of himself, He had no sensation, but for his soldiers: An enemy with the fiercest impetuosity ; A victor with the tenderest humanity, Adverse fortune he compensated with valour ; The want of streufjth, with skill and activity ; And, with his counsel and support , For four years protracted the impending Fate of the Colony. / *' Havinff with various artifices Lon<^ baffled a j^reat army. Headed by an expert and intrepid commander, And a lluet furnished with all warlike stores. Compelled at len<»th to an enifap^ement, He fell, iu the first rank, in the first onset. Warm with those hopes of Reli|jion Which he had always cherish'd ; To the inexpressible loss of his own army. And not without the reg^ret of the enemy's. XIV. September, A. D. M.DCC.LIX. Of his age XL VIII. , . His weepiufT countrymen Deposited the remains of their excellent General in a gravOj Which a fallen bomb in burstinf^ had excavated for him, Recommendinjf them to the jrenerous faith of their enemies. , , »I. DE BOUGAINVILLE. This g-entleman, having- served with much reputation under Montcalm, afterwards became a naval officer, and will be placed by impartial posterity in the first rank of circumna- vig^ators. His merits have been considered as nearly equal to those of the celebrated Captain Cook, whose precuisoi he was. He was scarcely twenty years of ag-e at the time of the surrender of Quebec, althoufrh at that early ag-e in cora- mand of nearly two thousand men. He was warmly attached to Montcalm ; which was evinced by his well known applica- tion to Mr. Pitt, respecting- the erection of a monument to that EC, WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 385 y*3 forces, Forts V tion. 1 labours, jldiers: losity ; lanitv, h valour ; activity; port lending ■ . * ommander, ^e stores, c-ment, rst onset, liffion ti'd; vn army, } enemy's. .LIX. eneral in a gravO; ;avatedfor him, I of their enemies. 1 reputation under ►fficer, and will be rank of circumna- •ed as nearly equal , whose precursor age at the time of early age in comi- as warmly attached e\\ known apprK""- a monument to that General. Bougainville was afterwards Vice Admiral, a Sena- tor ; and was finally killed by a revolutionary mob at Paris, on the 10th August, 1792. ... , '■ , 'Mi ^' , r I ,,-..■,. I ^ . MARQUIS DE VAUDREUIL. This nobleman's father had also been Governor General of all New France. The son, who surrendered Montreal to General Amherst, had been a Captain in the Navy. There was a Marquis de Vaudreuil, who commanded the French fleet in the West Indies, about 1783, to whom Admiral Lord Hood was opposed. If this was the same person with the Governor General, he must at the latter date have been between seventy and eighty years of age. GENERAL MONCKTON. Brigadier General the Honorable Robert Monckton was the second son of the first Viscount Gal way, by Elizabeth, daughter of John Duke of Rutland, who died in 1730, at the early age of 21, leaving four children. General Monckton was of about the same age as Wolfe. The family of Monckton is of great antiquity, having been possessed of Nun Monckton, in Yorkshire, near Boroughbridge, long previous to 1326, when it became a Nunnery, called after the family. In 1454- they acquired the Manor of Cavil, which still remains in the family. General Monckton was appointed Governor of New- York, in 1761. In 1762, he was appointed to the command of eighteen Regiments, destined for the attack on Martinique, which was reduced. He afterwards possessed himself by capitulation of the whole of the Windward Islands. H« died in 1782, a Lieutenant General in the Army. His young- er brother, the Honorable John Monckton, died at the pa- triarchial age of 91, at his seat, Fineshead Abbey, Northamp* tonshire, on the 2nd January, 1830. He was Colonel in the army, and was dangerously wounded at the battle of the Plains, under the immortal Wolfe. In the celebrated picture by West of the deach of General Wolfe, the portrait of Colonel Monckton is represented in the group of officers supporting the body of the dying General. »r: 2 K ■vai't fn,:,.^-- -'U «■!! COLONEL CARLETON. Colonel Guy Carleton, afterwards created Lord Dor- CHESTER, and a Knight of the Bath, was descended from an Irish family of respectable antiquity. He was born at Newry, in 1722. He was many years Governor of this Province, and is remembered with the greatest esteem. In May, 1772, he married Maria, daughter of the Earl of Effingham, and died iu 1808, aged 86. ' ., f , > .» ).■«■ V.U' ACCOUNt OF SIR WILLIAM JOHNSON. The services of Sir William Johnson, a self taught General, like Lord Clive, were equally useful and important, during the many campaigns in which he was engaged in North Anie- WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 367 rina. On two oocasions he bad captured the commanders of the enemy whom he fought, and had materially crip|>led their power. As a reward for these I4>C 4' f »'».,•,-, N*. *r FRASER's HIGHLANDERS, OR 78tH REGIMENT. J ■■' k i .1 ". ^» 1* *■• 1 V • « ;ls,'' iii\ u There are in Canada so many interesting recol- lections connected with the 78th Regiment, or Fraser*s Highlandeps, that we have endeavored to obtain the best information relative to this gallant corps, many of whom, as well officers as men, after- wards settled in these Provinces. About ten years after the battle of Cnlloden, which terminated the unfortunate Rebellion of 1745, Mr. Pitt, observing with a liberal and statesman-like eye the high spirit of loyalty towards those who placed confidence in them, which was the distinguishing characteristic of the Highland clans, resolved to employ them in the foreign service of Great Britain, under the command of officers chosen from the most esteemed Scottish families. He knew the chiefs could be depended upon where their faith was en- gaged ; and he was aware of the devotion with which the clansman followed the fortunes of his Chieftain. The experiment succeeded to the fullest extent ; and Mr. PiTT had the merit of drawing into the British service a hardy and intrepid race of men, who served the Crown with fidelity, who fought with valor, and who conquered for England in every part of the world. Following up this enlightened policy, in 1757, the Honorable Simon Fraser, who had himself been engaged in the rebellion, and whose father, Lord LovAT, had been beheaded for high treason on Tower Hill, was appointed Lieutenant Colonel Com- mandant of a Battalion, to be raised upon the for- feited estate of his own family, then vested in the iCfowh. Without estate, money, or influence, be- 2 k3 -''HI I . h il ' :!ll 390 p NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, yond the hereditary attachment of his clan, the Master of Lovat found himself in a few weeks at the head of eight hundred men, entirely recruited by himself. His kinsmen, officers of the regiment, and the gentlemen of the country around, added seven hundred more. The battalion was thus formed of thirteen companies of one hundred and five men each, making in all one thousand four hundred and sixty men, including sixty-five Serjeants, and thirty pipers and drummers. They were a splendid body of men, who after- wards carried the military reputation of their nation to the highest pitch ; and by the temperance and mo- deration of their general behavior, gave everywhere a favorable impression of the sons of the mountain and the flood. In all their movements they were attended by their Chaplain — the Reverend Robert Macpiierson, who was called by them Caipal Mor, from his large stature. 'J'hey wore the full High- land dress, with musket and broad sword. Many of the soldiers added at their own expense the dirk, and the purse of otters' skin. The bonnet was raised or cocked on one side, with a slight bend inclining/ down to the right ear, over which were suspended two or more black feathers. Eagles' or hawks' fea- thers were worn by the officers. ' -'■ -^ ' Eraser's Highlanders were highly di^cinguish- ed at the capture of Louisbourg, in 1758 — at the battles of MontmorencI, and the Plains of Abraham, in 1759— and of Sillery, in 1760. At the battle of the Plains, the loss of Eraser's Highlanders amounted to three officers, one serjeant, and four- teen rank and file killed — ten officers, seven Ser- jeants, and one hundred and thirty-one rank and file, wounded. The disproportion in the number of I comn was HiGlJ and other WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIO 'S. 391 were suspenued g -' or hawks' feu- the killed to that of the wounded, must be ascribed to the irrep^ular and unsteady fire of the enemy, which was put a stop to on the charge of the British. At thv? battle of Sillery, in 1760, fell the gallant Captain Donald McDonald, who had been so high- ly distinguished at the landing at Wolfe's Cove, and to whose presence of mind and knowledge of French, was in a great measure owing the success of the at- tempt. He was brother to the Scottish Chief, called the Captain of Clanronald ; and was a highly ac- complished officer and gentleman. The regiment also suffered very severely at the battle of Sillery. Two officers and fifty-five non-commissioned officers and privates were killed — twenty-seven officers, and one hundred and twenty-nine non-commissioned officers and privates, wounded. The regiment was quartered alternately in Canada and Nova Scotia, until the conclusion of the war, when great numbers settled in the Provinces. From them, in 1775, were raised the Highland Emigrants, commanded by Colonel Maclean, a regiment which was of great service during the invasion by the A»7]i*^ricans, in 1775. ' » — During six years in North America, Fraser's Highlanders continued to wear the kilt both winter and summer. They, in fact, refused to wear any other dress, and their men were more healthy than otL^r regiments which wore breeches and warm cloth- ing- ' • The French had formed the mostfrijrhtful and absurd notions of the Sauvages cV EcosseyU.^ they called them. They believed jthey would neither g^ive nor take quarter, and that they were so nimble, that as no man could catch them, so nobody could escape them — that no one had a chance aj^ainst their broad [suords — that with a ferocity natural to savages, they made no prisoners, and spared neither man, woman, nor child. ' ^ 392 lii NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, IT ' LIST Of the Officers of Fraser's Highlanders, Commissions dated, 5lh January, 1757. LIEUTENANT COLONEL COMMANDANT. Honorable Simon Eraser, died Lieutenant General, in 1782. MAJORS. James Clephane. John Campbell, of Dunoon, afterwards Lieutenant Colonel Commanding the Campbell Highlanders in Germany. CAPT XS. ' , '' John MacPherson, brother o 1 Uunie. ..»^^i-»j ii John Campbell, ofBallimore. ..... . .. Simon Fraser, of Inverlochy, killed on the heights of Abra- ham, 1759. Donald Macdonald, brother of Clanronald, killed at Sillery, 17(iO. John Macdonell of Lochgarry, afterwards Lieutenant Colo- nel of the 76th, or Macdonald's Regiment, -'!ied in 1789, Colonel. Alexander Cameron, of Dungallon. ' '' Thomas Ross of Culrossie, killed on the heights of Abraham, Thomas Fraser, of Strui. ,•..; ;j S.\ ^ j it; . Alexander Fraser, of Culduthel. . ; t v^ti. -, Sir Henry Seton, of Abercorn, Baronet. ' ' 7 " ^ James Fraser, of Belladrum. "^ ''' Simon Fraser, Captain Lieutenantf died a Lieutenant Gene- ral, in 1812. iir- : •■vrj ■;<''-?:*' - - - " ••„^r/M' k= LIEUTENANTS. Alexander Macleod. Hugh Cameron. Ronald Macdonald, of Keppoch. Charles Macdonell, of Glengarry, killed at St. John's. Roderick Macneill, of Barra, killed on the Heights of Abra- ham. Willicra Macdonell, . ;< - « Archibald Campbell, son of Glenlyon. John Fraser, of Balnain. Hector Macdonald, brother toBoisdale, killed in 1759. Allan Stewart, son of Innernaheill. John Fraser. EC, WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 393 SRS, Commissions [)ANT. General, in 1782. Lieutenant Colonel Germany. « ■' ■; he heights of Abra- ,d, killed at Sillery, is Lieutenant Colo- lent, ::ed in 1789, leights of Abraham. " V .^,;!J''i '■ a Lieutenant Gene- .! i •' ; it St. John's. e Heights of Abra- Alcxander Macdonell, sou of Barrisdale, killed on the heights of Abraham. Alexander Fraser, killed at Louisbourg. Alexander Campbell, of Aross. John Douoflass. John ^airn. Arthur Rose, of the family of Kilravock. • " ' Alexander Fraser. John Macdonell, of Leeks, died at Berwick, 1818. ' Cosmo Gordon, killed at Sillery, 17(^0. David Baillie, killed at Louisbourg. w.;-. Charles Stewart, son of Colonel John Roy Stewart. - > Ewen Cameron, of the family of Glenevis. »^ Allan Cameron. John Cuthbert, killed at Louisbourg. Simon Fraser. ' V; 'ivm?^v ' Archibald Macalister, of the family of Loup. ^ ' " « ■ '•'' James Murray, killed at Louisbourg. Donald Cameron, sou of Fassafearu, died on half-pay, 1817. "/„i V. .;. ENSIGNS. John Chisholm. John Fraser, of Erroggie. Simon Fraser. James MacKenzie. Malcolm Fraser, afterwards Captain, 84th Regiment, liflfhland Emigrants. Donald Macneilh '; --.; '• i.f-yv; Henry Munro. Hugh Fraser, afterwards Captain, 84th Regiment. Alexander (irregorson, Ardtornish. ^ James Henderson, Robert Menzies. ' ' John Campbell, killed. ChaplaiUy Reverend Robert Macpherson. Adjutant y Hugh Fraser. QMar/crwfl5/er, John Fraser. /Su^'^eon, John Maclean. H.f or .'i . . f . H i dlledinl759. ANECDOTE OF FRASER S HIGHLANDERS. In a publication of the day it is stated, that an old Highlan- ler, a gentleman of seventy years of ago, who accompanied [raser's Regiment as a volunteer, was particularly noticed for 394 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, P I i U m > jl the dexterity and force with which he wielded his claymore, when his Reg-iinent charo^ed the enemy. On two occasions small parlies of them were ordered, at the battle of the Plains, to advance, sword in hand, and drive the sharpshooters out of some brushwood on the right, from which they galled our line. It was from the right that General Wolfe was first wounded. I This old man's conduct particularly attracted the notice of General Townshend, who sent for him after the engagement, and praising his gallant behaviour, expressed surprise that he should leave his native country at such an advanced age, and follow the fortune of war. He was so struck with the old! man's magnanimity, that he took him to England along with him, and introduced him to Mr. Pitt. The Minister pre- sented him to the King, who was graciously pleased to give] him a commission, with leave to retire on full-pay. This gen- tleman was Malcolm Macwherson, of Phoiness, in the Countyl of Inverness. A long and ruinous law suit, and as he hiinseif| said, a desire of being revenged on the French for their trea^ cherous promises, in 1745, made him take the field as asoldierl in his old age. A near relation of his of the same name, when| well advanced in years, (for he had also joined the Kebellion. in 1745,) acted nearly in a similar manner. In the year 177C he "^'ent to India as a Cadet, and living to a great age, attained! the rank of Lieutenant General, and died there in 1815, leav> iug a handsome fortune to his relations in Badeuoch. STORY OF LIEUTENANT CHARLL > STEWART. The officer, who was wounded at Sillery, had been engatjeij in the Rebellion of 1745, and was in Stewart of Appin's Ke giraent, which had seventeen officers and gentlemen of M Dame of Stewart, killed, and ten wounded, at Culloden. Char| les Stewart was severely wounded on that occasion, as he wai at Sillery. As he lay in his quarters some days after that im fortunate affair under General Murray, speaking to some bro ther officers on the recent battles, he exclaimed, — " Frorj April battles, and Murray Generals, good Lord, delivernie! He alluded to his wound at Culloden, where the vanquislw blamed Lord George Murray, the Commander-in-Chief of tb rebel army, for fighting on the best ground in the country foj regular troops, artillery, and cavalry. In like manner he luded to General Murray, who had marched out of garrison t attack au enemy treble his numbers, also in an open field. On one occai [sisters fo early in f pnger, a H by his I'lg' abou ive tht? tediatei ind calh .0 take t( ince, no ore can 'i to Fra bo had the body The fo ff Frasei 'e vener; lontmon " Gene fovernme WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 395 ,ded his claymore, lof those story retailers, who are sometimes about head-quarters, )n two occasions Ituid the disrespectful prayer of the lebeliious clansman. But ittleof the Plains, ■Oeneral Murray, who was a man of humor and ofg-enerous arpshooters out of ■mind, called upon the wounded officer the following- raorning-, »ey galled our line. Band heartily wished him better deliverance in the next battle, was first wounded. Bfthen he hoped to give him occasion to pray in a different ted the notice of! manner. r the engavernment during the winter, summoned all the officers 396 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, '» lli and enquired if they had any money, and if their soldiers had any money that they could lend to the Governor until the sup. plies arrived from England in thesprinjf. We were told of the wants of the Governor, and the next day we were paraded, everj- man, and told that we should receive our money hack, with interest, as soon as possible ; and in order to prevent any mistake, every man received his receipt for his amount, and for fear he should lose it, the Adjutant went along^ the ranks, and entered in a book the name and sura opposite to every man ; and, by the Lord Harry ! when they'came to count it up, thev found that our regiment alone, Eraser's Highlanders, had | mustered six thousand guineas ! It was not long after we had lent our money, that one rhorning a frigate was seen coming round Pointe Levi with supplies. We were soon af. I terwards mustered, and every man received back his money with twelve months interest, besides the thanks of the Gene- ral." """• " i»' ,r. •'!> 1 ■ .', ^iV' ' ' BATTLE OF MONTMORENCI. The remarkable story of Captain Ochterlony and Lieu- tenant Pkyton of the Royal American Battalion, tending so| happily to the honor of British soldiers, has been often pub- lished. It is to be found in Smollett, in Smith's Canada, aodl in Silliman's Tour. The sequel is not so generally known;! and is here related on the authority of Mr. Thompson, at tliej time belonging to the Regiment : .. ,..,,,.,. ... ' J . story of SERJEANT ALLAN CAMERON. " As our company of grenadiers approached, I distinctly sawl Montcalm on horseback riding backwards and forwards. He| seemed very busy giving directions to his men, and I heard bin give the word to tire. Immediately they opened upon us, and killed a good many of our men, I don't recollect how many.! We did not Jire^ for it would have been of no use^ as they iwl completely entrenched^ and we could only see th' crown of them heads." " We were now ordered to retreat to our boatsj that had been left afloat to receive us ; and by this time it wa low water, so that we had a long way to wade through thij mud. A Serjeant Allan Cameron, of our company, seeing! small battery on our left with two guns mounted, and app* rently no person near it, thought he would prevent its doinjfuS ^°7^ any mischief on our retreat, so he picked up a couple of bapB ^^^^ ne be ant sen lay nan ver end sine batt Pey pent as hi ratn< of hi 8enc( savafl brou* the 1 bim I nant fell ■;„'» .■!;■■■ ' arm • - . ■' ■ . ■'';'■-. was ,;, . '.»;'■ . ..;■• "- ....•-:. and • -'^f ■;::'- y^' ' ■ ■•' •. , . ) ' ' . 1 • t ' t ' had , '' t deta •; . , V, ^1 : ':-'-i ;,-;■■ ^- : r * " ■ ■ . ' '.'•', dowi , ■ : -r *,j . / - ,■ ' » ('', ■ "41 : . ■ ' .. - . A r" ■• - ■ * "^ ' . ■'. i HJ ■ ' ed ( •■ \ "---■• . ; ■■ . ■^= i^.' •)■'■'*' - '- 1 * ' ■. * f ry *>•-.. licat ' ^' : ■■ ''\i -:^:' \i ■ r'.i^ \ ,ir- Tl .'■'.. .-* ■ ' \ '■■.».- i ■ -■•,',;» • '('■• - • read • • ;; vf ' ■-•- / • ' ' • V ' ■ >, ''"' and ■w' I ^ » .. - ■. fV- - '"; y : ', I ., -th , ■ , .. ' ^ ■ ■- - , . : ,■'■'- : V. ■-. ? ^' - - , the a WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS 399 1 f } . / f< ■ - • CHAPTER THE SEVENTEENTH. ARRIVAL OF THE NEWS IN ENGLAND — CRONOLOGICAL SERIES OF OCCURRENCES. The public mind in Ei rhich had bee] mina m HiNGland, greatly depressed by the news of the failure of Wolfe at Montmorenci, was elevated in an equal degree by the intelligence of the victory of the Plains, and of the subsequent surrender of Quebec. Colonel Hale, who was the bearer of General TowNSHEND*s despatches, and Captain James Doug- las, of the Alcide, who brought those of the Admiral, arrived in London on Tuesday, 16th October. It was the day of the publication of the London Gazette, and in the Extraordinary of that date, the Ministry had ordered for publication the previous despatches, detailing the less fortunate operations of the army, down to the 2nd September, which had been receiv- ed only two days before. The satisfaction with which they received the glorious accounts brought by Colonel Hale, on the same evening with the pub- lication of the Gazette, may be well imagined. The first feeling which pervaded all ranks, and reached every part of the kingdom, was that of joy and exultation at the success of the British arms — the next was a deep national regret at the fall of the accomplished Wolfe. Their joy was shown by 400 NEW PICTURE OP ^VEBEC, the most splendid public illuminations — and their mourning by wreaths of black crape intermingled with the laurel, wherever the national colors were elevated. Exactly the same display of feeling was made on the death of the immortal Nelson, in 1805, A day of public thanksgiving was set apart by au- thority for the signal success of His Majesty's Arms. Dr. Louth preached before the King at the Chapel Royal. The Sermon before the House OF Lords was preached by the Bishop of Wor- cester — before the House of Commons by Dr. Dayrell. A great many sermons preached on this occasion were published in various parts of the coun- try. Addresses of congratulation were presented to the King from both houses of the English Parlia- ment — from the Parliament of Ireland, which was first in Session — from the city of London which set the example on this occasion — from the Universities — and from the principal corporations throughout the kingdom. The House of Commons addressed His Majesty to erect a national Monument to the me- Tnary of Wolfe, in Westminster Abbey ; which was carried into eftect, and to this day remains an object of patriotic interest and exultation. The thanks of the Commons of England were also voted to the officers and men engaged in this memo- rable achievement. Subscriptions were set on foot to alleviate the distresses of the widows and orphans of those who fell in the battle — a life of General Wolfe was published by Kearsley — the Muses were invoked to celebrate and immortalize the hero himself — a Greek Ode, ETTINIKIOS, was published — and, in short, every demonstration of national pride and gratitude was made by a grateful, an exulting, and highly excited people. < I WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 401 Captain James Douglas received from His Ma- jesty the honor of Knighthood, and shortly after- wards was appointed to a higher command in the Leeward Islands. Colonel, afterwards General, Hale obtained a commission to raise a regiment of Light Dragoons ; and each received a gift of five hundred pounds to purchase a sword. Admiral Saunders was made Lieutenant General of Marines, and ap- pointed to a command in the Mediterranean. Ad- miral Holmes received the command of the Jamaica Fleet. The Generals were also promoted — but the scanty rewards of that period are not to be put in competition with the liberality which a long and glo- rious war, has, in our day, in a manner compelled the nation to evince in the distribution of honors and rewards. None of the Generals received the Order of the Bath, — which, however, was soon aftci wards worthily conferred upon Admiral Saunders. It is, indeed, apparent from contemporary evidence, that the limited rewards of the Ministry on this glorious occasion excited remark at the time. Genen; ' Blake- NEY had been made a Knight of the Bath, and an Irish Peer, with a pension of £1000 per annum, for giving up Minorca. Prince Ferdinand had been rewarded for the battle of Minden with £2,500 per annum, a richly ornamented sword of great value, besides a gratification of £-20,000, and the Knight- hood of the Garter. It is remarkable with reference to the battle of Minden, that this word has been lately inscribed upon the colors and appointments of certain Regiments present on that occasion ; wb.ile, we believe, no Rcoriment of those engaged in an achievement as glorious to the British Arms as any recorded in its annals, bears among its insignia the name of Quebec ! 2k3 H' m'. 402 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, The following chronological series of occurrences in England connected with the acquisition of the Province, and the reception of the news during the eventful years 1759 and 1760, has been extrac- ted from contemporary publications, as possessing considerable interest for the curious reader : U f'^r. il OCCURRENCES IN ENGLAND 1759 — 1760. I 'I ' Wednesday y \^th February, 1759. Sailed from Spithead, Admiral Holmes, in the Somerset, of 70 g^uns, with the Northumberlnnd 74, Terrible 74, Trident 04, Intrepid 64, Medway 60, and the Maidaione, Adventure, Diana, Trent, Europe, Vestal, Eurus, Boreas, and Crescent, frigates, with 60 sail of transports, supposed for New- York. Saturday, Mth, Admiral Saundkrs, after bein^ made Vice Admiral of the Blue, and hoisting* his i\&^ accordingly, sailed from Spithead for Louisbourg-, havings in his squadron the following^ ships : Neptune, 90 guns. Royal William 84, Shrewsbury 74, Warspite 74, Orford 70, Alcide 64, Stirling Castle 64, Dublin 74, and Lizard 20 ; Scorpion sloop, the Baltimore, Pelican, and Race- horse bombs ; and the Cormorant, Strombolo, and Vesuvius fire ships. Promotions in January, 1 769. Lieutenant Henry Caldwell, of Colville's Regiment, to be Assistant Quarter Master General in North America. Fehrvary, 1759. John Hale, Esquire, to bo Lieutenant Colonel of the 47th Heg-iment of foot, and to rank as Colonel in America only, Paulus iEm'iius Irving, Esquire, to be Major in the 15th Regiment of foot. Colonel George Townshend, to be Brigadier General in America. March, 1759. Hector Theopliilus Cramahe, Esquire, to be Deputy Judge Advocate in North America. WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 403 of occurrences juisition of the ) news during IS been extrac- as possessing eader : ^9—1760. 759. , in the Somerset, zrrible 74, Trident h^one^ Adventure, •eaSy and Crescent, for New- York. ice Admiral of the led from Spithead e following ships : burt/14!, Warspite )4, Dublin 74, and Pe/icrtn,and Ilace- oloy and Vesuvius i Regiment, to be America. !oloncl of the 47th America only. Major in the 15th T! •adier General in be Deputy Judge ^pn7,l759. Captain Christie, to be Deputy Quarter Master General in North America, with the rank of Major. Wednesday, 26th September, 1759, The last advices from General Wolfe's Army, are dated, July 1 2th, advisintj : " That he had landed all his Array at Pointe Levi, fronting^ the upper end of Quebec, on a rising- jrround : at the extremity of which point he had erect(»d two batteries, one of twenty twenty-four pounder8,and the other of eighteen mortars. These batteries overlook the Lower, and are upon a level with the Upper City, distant from the former three-fourths of a mile. The camp is pitched in a vale at the inner part of this point, a full mile from the batteries ; notwith- standing which the cannon from the ramparts of the Upper City throw their shot a full half mile beyond their tents. The \U\i July, the batteries were to be played oft*, and three sixty ofun ships were appointed to attack a small encampment, and some batteries and outworks at the lower end of the city, whilst the centre of the place is entertained with three three-deckers, and. two bomb-ketches." And as our Commanders, both by sea and land, are men of merit and approved courage, little doubt can be made of their being in possession of that city long before this time. . * * Promotions in September, 1759. Jeffrey Amherst, Esquire, to be Major General* Tuesday, \6th October, 1759. This Jay an extraordinary Gazette was published containing letters from General Wolfe, dated September 2nd, and from Admiral Sauivders, dated September 5th. The same evening arrived Colonel John Hale, and Captain James Douglas from Quebec, with other letters to. Mr. Secre- tary Pitt, containing an account of the surrender of Quebec. Wednesday, 1 7th. H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and the Royal family, with the most of the nobility in town, waited upon His Majesty at Kensington, to pay their compliments on the joyful news of taking Quebec. The Park and Tower guns were tired, flags every whiere displayed from the steeples, and the greatest illu- minations were made throughout the city and suburbs that were ever known. 404 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, • ^ ' " -i- ■'!, I- V During the illiiniiDations thisevoning, the following inscrip- tions appeared : Pinisc The only giver of Victory, for The renewed Instre of The British iieme. General Jamks Woi.fe, who Daimtloss, but deliberate, Under numerous diiTicuttieR, September 'Jnd, 1759. ' En«jnj]fed to employ liis little Army, For the honor and interest Of his country ; And In a few days after, Gloriously fulfilled his promise, '' By the conquest of QUKHKr, At the expenstj of his life. Saturday y 20tli. This day the Ui{i[ht Honorable the l.ord Mayor, Aldermon, and Common (council of the (/ity of London, waited on His Majf.sty, and bciu}; introduced by the Ki^ht Hcuorable Mr. Secretary Pitt, made their compliments in the Address, ot wliich the followinjr is an extract : " Above all, the conquest of Quebec, in a manner so jaflorioiis to your Majesty's Arms, ag'ainst every advantage of situation and superior numbers, are such events, as will for ever render your Majesty's auspicious reign the favorite era in the history of Great Britain. " But whilst wo reflect with surprit'^ end gratitiide upon this last and most important conquest, | rmit us, Mot:t (iracious Sovereign, to express our great regret for the immense (thoiiffh almost only) loss which has attended it, in the death of that gallant General, whose al)ilities formed, whose courage attempt- ed, and whose conduct happily effected the glorious enterprizc in which he fell, leaving to future times an heroic example of military skill, discipline rnd fortitude." WITH HISTORICAL RECOLLECTIONS. 405 following inscrip- rmy, ISC, Mayor» Aldermen, )n, waited on llis lit Hcnorahle Mr. II the Address, ol manner so jnclorions anta«c of situation I'ill for ever rentier era in the history jrratitudc upon tliis us, Mort (iracious e immense (thon^'h n the death of that se eoui'a«;e attempt- };lorious enterprizc heroic example of Saturday^ 2Gth. A proclamation was issued for a Vmn.ic Tiianksoivincj, to bo [observed on Thursday, the 29th November next, throughout England and Wales. > • Tuesday, 30lh. His Majksty has been pleased to order a present of £500 to Sir James Doug-las, Captain of the Alcide, man of war; and the same sum to Colonel Hale, who brought tho accoant of the taking of Quebec. The French Ministers are in such dread of popular resent- ment, that they hare recourse to the grosvsest, and most direct falsehoods, merely to conceal for a time what cannot fail to be known at last, so that they have even caused Tc JJcum to bo sung for the defeat of the English before Quebec, at the Yery time they knew it was taken. Tuesday, November 13/A, 1759. This day Parliament was opened by Commission. In tho speech the capture of Quebec was alluded to in these terms : — "The conquest of so many important places in America, with the defeat of the French Army in Canada, and the reduction of their capital city of Quebec, effected with so mach honor to the courage and conduct of His Majesty's ofUcers both at sea aQd land, and with so great lustre to his intrepid forces." The Addres^ses in answer from the Lords and Commons nearly echoed the terms of the speech ; but the Lords added that tho reduction of Quebec " has exceeded the most sanguino hopes of your Majesty's faithful subjects." On the 30th October the Irish House of Commons also voted an Address to the Kino, of which the following is an extract : "Witness Quebec ! which lately beheld a youthful warrior, with unabated order, lead on a few selected troops, and under the influence of your Majesty's liapj-y auspices, attack and de- feather numerous bodies of regulars and Canadians, supported by her auxiliary savages. " Pardon us, Most (irracious Sovereign, if we suspend awhile nnr otherwise unclouded joy, to lament the loss of that gallant General. How gloriously has he finished his short but bril- liant career, and left a name, so long as fame shall wait upon heroic deeds, consecrated to posterity, and an example as dif- ficult as it is worthy of imitation." ' "li-C^^^^ 406 NEW PICTURE OF QUEBEC, Saturday ^ \lth November. This day, the remains of General Wolfe were landed a| Portsmouth, from on board the Royal William man of war Durinjr the solemnity, minute guns were fired from the shipJ at 8pithead ; and all the honors that could be paid to the nie] mory of a gallant oHicer were paid on this occasion. Thesday, 20th. This day, the corpse of (leneral Wolfe was interred in private manner, at ni