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Toronto "Called Back"

AND

EMIGRATION

WITH

REMINISCENCES OF A RECENT TRIP TO GREAT
BRITAIN AND IRELAND

Containing an account of the visit of Her Majesty the Queen to Wales,

THE Mersey Tunnel, Manchester Ship Canal, and a visit to

THE Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, at Clandeboye,

with a beautiful lithograph portrait of

HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN AND EMPRESS

also

Engraved Likenesses of His Excellency Lord Stanley of Preston, Govemof
General; and E. F. Clarke, Esq., M.P.P., Mayor.

CONYNGHAM CRAWFORD TAYLOR

(OP Her Ma.ik8T¥'b Cvbtoms),
Author of "Toronto 'Called Back.'"

TORONTO :

WILLIAM BRIGGS, Publisher,

METHODIST BOOK AND PUBLISHING HQUSE.

1890.

Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year one thousand
eight hundred and ninety, by Conynoham C. Taylor, In the Office of the
Minister of Argriculture, at Ottawa.

His Excellency Sir Frederick Arthur Stanley,

Baron Stanley of Preston, G.C.B.,
Qovtrnor-OenercU of Canada, etc., etc

As many of the reminiscences in these pages have their
centre in Lancashire^ where the names of " Stanley " and
" Derby'' are as familiar as " Preston " itself and having had
occasion to refer to the fact of your Excellency occupying at
present the distinguished position of the popular representative of
Her Majesty in this Dominion^ and knowing the interest you
take in all that appertains to the growth and progress of Toronto.,
and of Canada generally., this brief record of my recent visit to
G'eat Britain and Ireland, and my humble efforts to make
Toronto better known, is respectfully dedicated to your Lordship^
hy your iOyal and obedient servant,

C. C. TAYLOR.
35 Grosvenor St., Toronto,
September, iSgo.

MIS EXCELLENCY Slf^ FREDEF^ICK ARTHUf^ STANLEY,

BARON STANLEY OF PRESTON, G.C.B.,
GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF CANADA.

INTRODUCTORY.

PREVIOUS to 1886, the commercial history of Toronto
had never been written. Everything previously pub-
lished was either purely topographical or political, with reminis-
cences of persons and places, interesting for local information.

Rev. Doctor Scadding's history is deservedly valuable in these
respects, and also Doctor Mulvaney's " Toronto Past and Pre-
sent," and Mr. Dent's Semi-Centennial volume. Although
neither of the last was from personal knowledge of the events
narrated, they have contributed to the same local description
of Toronto, yet in continuous intercourse with Great Britain
since 1847, 1 have never met with a copy of either of the above
works in any library or public institution on the other side of
the Atlantic. The general facts as to the growth of Toronto,
from the time it was known as " Muddy York," have been
repeated and reiterated in pamphlets, Christmas numbers of
newspapers, and advertising literature of all kinds, but nothing
beyond what was ephemeral, or at best only for casual reference,
and, only arresting the passing notice of the readers, to be
thrown aside, as of no further interest.

Who has travelled amongst strange cities, and at his hotel
was compelled to resort to the local history of Chicago, Buffalo,
St. Paul and scores of other cities, and has not, after skimming
over the leaves mechanically, felt relieved on laying them aside
and flying to something more interesting and instructive, to
pass the weary hours, forgetting all about the oft-repeated
history, because entirely local ? Thomas Carlyle saj's, " The
editor of books may understand withal that if as is said ' many
kinds are permissible,' there is one kind not permissible, the
kind that has nothing in it, ' le genre ennuyeux.' "

INTRODUCTORY.

Having been struck with this fact, and being constantly
reminded by everything around me of the wonderful growth
and progress of the city which I had witnessed during forty
years, especially in the importing trade, and the development
of its manufacturing industries, and everything suggesting the
contrast between 1886 and 1847, I commenced to write for
private use only, my reminiscences of my first impressions of
Toronto, then my experience as a wholesale importer, and in
" calling back " from memory the history of trade, I found that
I was in possession of some facts, that were not generally
known and certainly had never been recorded, amongst which
were the following : —

The commencement of commercial travelling, having been
the first to undertake the enterprise, before any railroads were
thought of, and having taken orders for our own firm from
Quebec to Windsor, thus making Toronto, even then, a distribut-
ing centre, I had the pleasure of inducing buyers from as far east
as Brockville to visit Toronto for spring purchases for the first
time.

The want of a good hotel being felt by the merchants, we
were amongst the first to take debentures in the Rossin House,
and subsequently to sell to Mr. Rossin at 50 per cent. loss, so as
to prevent the hotel from being closed up.

We were amongst the first subscribers to the mercantile agency
of R. G. Dun & Co., years before Mr. Wiman became connected
with it.

In the same way I was amongst the first subscribers to the
Gas Company, which was formed in 1 848.

Having entered goods at the Custom House before any of
its present stafi* were connected with it, I was familiar with
its history.

Nevertheless, I did not presume at first to publish what I
knew of these matters, until I had ascertained that my chances
of finding any assistance from my contemporaries were so
slight as tu convince me that all I knew would be left in oblivion
did I not put it in the hands of the printer.

I waited on the late Senator McMaster and others for contir-

INTRODUCTORY.

vii

raation of some important matters, such as the introduction of
the bonding system through the States, when they told me that
neither from memory, nor from written memoranda, could they
assist me. As I had, personally, a part in ^he introduction of
the bonding system, this I considered very important.

The late Senator Macdonald was certainly the best qualified
of any man in commercial life to write on these matters, but he
had not commenced the wholesale business for some time after
some of these events took place. When I showed him what I
had written, he said if I did not publish it, it would be lost, as
there was no one else to do so, and chiefly through his influence
I consented.

It may be judged from the following list of all the busine.ss
men in the city who were in business in 1850, and are still
living, how few had experience as importers or manufacturers
to narrate the business history of that time : — In Wholesale
Dry Goods there were Lewis Moffatt, Isaac Gilmour, Taylor &
Stevenson ; Wholesale Grocers — J. C. Fitch, Frederick Perkins ;
Retail Dry Goods — John Kay, John Eastwood, Arthur Lepper,
Scott & Laidlaw, Thos. Lailey ; Druggists — W. H. Doel, Hugh
Miller; Musical Instruments — S. Nordheimer; Booksellers —
Thomas Maclear ; Jewellers — E. M. Morphy; Hides and Leather
— James Beaty ; Boots and Shoes — Edward Dack.

Not one hardware merchant or retail grocer survives who
was in business in 1850.

Of the whole of these the only importers who had any
experience in that way are Isaac Gilmour, Esq., L. Moffatt,
Esq., the writer, and his then partner, at present living at St.
Leonards-on-the-Sea, England- -in the wholesale dry goods; and
Frederick Perkins, Esq., and J. C. Fitch, Esq. — in the wholesale
grocery trade.

The fate of previous attempts at writing a history of Toronto
which would prove of general interest, led me to deviate from
the beaten path of local historians, and to publish something
that would be readable on both sides of the Atlantic. How far
I have succeeded I leave for competent critics to decide, and
amongst the first I maj quote from the Evening Telegram

viii

INTllODUCTORY.

of August (Jtli, 188G. "Tho author doos not confine his remi-
niscences to Toronto. The reader is carried in fancy to other
lands, and has placed before him a picture of half-forgotten
events, or given pictures of men and places, with whose names
or history he is more or less familiar. The book deals chiefly
with Toronto, however, dwelling on its wonderful growth and
piogress, especially as an importing centre, with the develop-
ment of its manufacturing industries, etc. In fact, Mr. Taylor
has produced a book which he might successfully defy any one
to take up without finding something to interest him. Not
content with telling the reader what it was in 1850, he shows
what it is to-day ; and by casting a prophetic eye into the future,
he shows what is in store for this city of wonderful progress,
in all the useful walks of life. ' Perhaps,' he says, ' with the
exception of London and Chicago, no city in the world has
made such rapid strides in the march of progress. It is just
such a book as a shrewd observer might produce, who had
devoted the spare moments of his life to making mental photo-
graphs, putting them away in the storeroom of his memory, and
then bringing them out and developing them, as the photo-
graphers say, for the benefit of all who like pen-pictures." This
extract is from the pen of Mr. Pirie, formerly editor of the
paper, and is only an extract from a long critique. This is
followed by flattering notices from the Olobe, Mail, World,
Evening News, Christian Guardian, Canadian Mantifadurer,
Freemason, Sentinel, Irish Canadian, Monetary Tiynea,
Saturday Niifht, Dominion Churchman, Em-pire, Citizen,
Canadian Advance, etc., etc. A Liverpool paper says:
" Through the kindness of Alderman G. F. Frankland, we have
received a copy of the elegant and interesting work ' Toronto
" Called Back," ' which partly historical, partly commercial and
partly reminiscent, groups eflfectively the record of forty years'
progressive development. As a souvenir of a city holdir lOr
'US so many attractions of the closest sociul charactei, we
acknowledge the gift with our warmest €hanks, and largely
endorse the sentiment of patriotism which prompted Mr. Frank-
land to put on record the fact that it was presented to us on Her

INTRODUCTORY.

Jijajesty's birthday. Of the work itself wo slml! liave inoro to
say later on, inoanwhilo wecontent ourselves by retiiarking that
the gifted and energetic author has, with clmrniing individu-
ality, so interwoven the stiiring events and recollections of his
own time with the general history of the C^ueen City, as to
make the volume as personally attractive as a biography, while
combining the essential elements of a corporation history. We
may add, that Alderman Frankland took the opportunity, when
paying his respects to Mayor Oakshott, of presenting him with a
copy of the same work."

A professional gentlemen of Toronto, of extensive knowledge,
and who has travelled a great deal, writes : " I have read
'Toronto "Called Back'" through from cover to cover, and with
more pleasure than I can tell you. I had no iden. chat the
history of the town could have been made .so interesting."

An Alderman of the Lancashire County Council, residing in
Manchester, writes from Niagara Falls: "Enjoying a brief v'sit to
Canada, I was so fortunate as to get a copy of your book. Can-
ada has had an increasing interest since I read ' Toronto " Called
Back," ' ai^d I may tell you it brought our party to Toronto,
where it has been our guide, philosopher, and friend. We have
ticked off day by day the points of interest in your live city,
and thank 3'ou as strangers for the pleasure of perusal. Happy
memories will many a time and oft be ' called back ' of the
book and its author. Every library' in England should have it.
I knew very little of Toronto before coming here, and I am
sure few know more than I did. Were your book better known
in England your city and country would be also."

Indian and Oolonial Exhibition.

In anticipation of the opening of the Indian and Colonial
Exhibition in London in 1886, Mr. James Beaty, ex-M.P., and
Mr. R. W. Elliot, President of the Ontario Manufacturers' Asso-
ciation, addressed the City Council on behalf of the Toronto
exhibitors at the exhibition. These gentlemen urged upon the
Council the necessity of distributing something substantial in
the shape of statistics, regarding the city's growth, commerce,

X INTRODUCTORY.

population, wealth, public buildings, etc. The matter was
referred to a special committee, of which Aid. Saunt^ers was
chairman.

Having at that time in manuscript just such material as was
Risked for, in preparation for my first edition, of " Toronto
' Called Back,' " and no person offering to supply the required
information, I offered to give the use of my manuscript without
any remuneration whatever for the required purpose, and here
the first imputation of mercenary motives commenced, one
alderman remarking that if they took it for nothing I would be
applying afterwards for compensation. As this idea was nothing
short of an insult, I made no further offer, and the whole matter
fell through.

It was on this occasion Aid. Frankland made the statement
that there were " tons weight " of literature on Canada in
Liverpool lying idle. In this statement I can fully corroborate
the worthy alderman as to literature of a certain class, which
I saw in bundles tied up on shelves, in quantities amounting
to thousands of pamphlets, which no person saw, or cared
much to read. To quote the alderman's own words, after
"Toronto 'Called Back'" made its appearance, he made the
amende honorable and became its warmest advocate.

It>happened that very time when the whole matter of writing
pamphlets and sending photographs to the exhibition fell
through, that a letter appeared in the Toronto World, from an
old lady in London to her daughter in Toronto, warning her to
be sure and " lock the doors at night to prevent the bears from
getting at the dear little children."

A recent bear story from Parkdale, if circulated in England
without explanation, or more correct information about that
progressive section of the city, would have precisely the same
effect on the readers.

The "Prospectus" promised to show the "Wonderful
growth and progress of the City from 1850 to 1886, especially
as an Importing Centn, with the development of its Manufac-
turing Industries," and "Reminiscences, extending over the four
decennial periods from 1846 to ) 886, including the introdu(!tion

INTRODUCTORY.

of the Bonding System through the United States," also
"Toronto a Manufacturing City;" "Toronto an Educational
Centre ; " Toronto a Musical City ; " " Toronto a Commercial
Centre;" " Toronto a Liteiary City ;" "Toronto as a Railway
Centre ; " " Toronto a City of Churches ; " "Toronto as a Place of
Residence ; " " The Parks and Pleasure Grounds of Toronto ; "
" Toronto as a Distributing Centre, from the Atlantic to the
Pacific ;" " Toronto as the Queen City of the Dominion and
Future Capital ;" " The Future of Toronto."

In acknowledgment of the receipt of Copies of the Prospectus
of " Toronto ' Called Back/ " letters were received, from v»hich
the following are extracts :

From His Excellency tfie Marquis of Lansdowne, Governor-General of

Canada, etc., etc.

Sir, — I am desired by His Excellency to acknowledge the re-
ceipt of your letter of the 22nd inst., and to say that he is disposed
to believe from the information with which you have supplied
him, that such an account of the progress of Toronto might be
given to the public with advantage, and if the work which you
propose to publish is brought out. His Excellency will be glad
to take copies of it. I am, sir, your obedient servant,

(Signed) Melgund.

From Hon. John Carting, Minister of Agriculture.

Dear Sir, — I have submitted your letter, and am instructed
to inform you that the Minister of Agriculture fully recognizes
the importance of the work you propose to publish.

Yours truly, (Signed) Douglas Brymner.

From Hon. John Beverley Robinson, Lieut. -Governor of Ontario.

My Dear Sir, — As your proposed publication is designed to
give an accurate account of the growth of the trade of Toronto,
contrasting the past with the present, I need hot say that it
will greatly interest me, as it is well calculated to do many
others who regard with interest all that appertains to this fast
advancing city. You have it in your power from your former
mercantile experience, to make your sketch of this city very
valuable, and as the object which you have in view is a meri-
torious one, I wish you every success, and remain, My dear sir,
very truly yours, (Signed) John Beverley Robinson.

lNT»ODUCT(1IlY,

Fr„m John Macdonald, Esi/., Ex.-M.P.

(Of MesHi-s. John Macdonald & Co., Wholesale Dry Goods Im-
porters, Wellington and Front Streets.)

My Dear Taylor, — I wish you every success with your
book, and will have jjroat pleasure in being numbered amontr
your subscribers. Of the many chanj^es which have taken
place in Toronto during the last thirty or forty years you have
been a witness ; changes every one of which has indicated
wonderful advancement. It will be a great thing to have this
presented in readable form as a simple matter of historic
interest. This work you are well fitted to accomplish, and such
a work ought to secure a wide circulation. Very truly yours,

(Signed) John Macdonald.

From Hon. Edward lilake, Q.C., MP.

Dear Sir, — I should be very glad to purchase a copy of
your history of Toronto, which will be de^'ply interesting to
me, who am, I am afraid, one of its oldest inhabitants. Yours
faithfully, (Signed) Edward Blake.

From the Hon. Oliver Mowat, Q.C., M.P.J'.

Sir, — The Attorney-General has received your letter, aiul
authorizes you to put his name down as a subscriber to your
Your obedient servant, - — -

book.

S. F. Bastedo.

From the Rvjht Hon. Sir John A. Macdonald, G.C.B.

Dear Sir, — I have no doubt that your work, "Toronto
' Called Back,'" from 1886 to 1847 will be valuable and inter-
esting, and I must ask you to put me down as a subscriber.
Yours very truly, (Signed) John A. Macdonald.

The first edition made its appearance in 1886, and before the
close of the Exhibition quite a number of exhibitors had ordered
and distributed from ten to twenty-five copies each, amongst
friends and visitors to the Exhibition. Amongst letters from
exhibitors who had distributed the books, Octavius Newcombe,
Esq., of this city, wrote : — •

" There has been a great interest in Canada aroused in Eng-
land sinde the Exhibition ; and a little knowledge of Toronto so

INTIIODUCTORY.

xin

easily ol)taino{l through your interesting work, might be the
means of bringing hundreds of tourists to Toronto, in tlie course
of visiting Niagara and the St. Lawrence."

The Queen's Jubilee, and "Toronto 'Called Back.'"

The success of the first edition, and the great event of the
Queen's Jubilee in 18S7, induced nie to is.sue a second, with the
above title. Although this edition contained eiglity-five
additional pages and a number of new illustrations, including a
splendid lithograph of Her Majesty the Queen and Empress,
executed by the Toronto Lithographing Co., no addition was
made to the price of the book.

Through the liberality of the Mayor and Council of that year
250 copies were ordered to be distribute<l through P. Byrne,
Esq., the Ontario Emigration Agent in Liverpool, and fifty
more copies to be personally distributed by Alderman Frank -
land.

For these books no payment was asked till most thankful
acknowledgments were received and shown from the librarians
of Free Libraries, Mechanics' Institutes, the librarians of the
British Museum, all the Universities in Great Britain and
Ireland, and Maynooth College, besides all the Steamship
Companies belonging to Canada.

E. F, CLf\(^KE, M.P.P,,
1888 MAYOR OF TORONTO. 1890

Toronto Called Back and Emigration.

" Toronto ' Called Back,' " and the Queen's Jubilee
from 1888 to 1847.

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL.

The third edition of " Toronto ' Called Back ' " having been
issued, and with the advice of the Civil Service Medical Officer
to take a trip to recruit my health, and the necessary permission,
by order of the Governor-in-Council, having been obtained, I
secured a passage in the Allan Royal Mail Steamship Sardinian
from Quebec to Liverpool, 11th July, 1889.

As it was my intention to place nearly the whole of 500
copies of my book on sale in London and Manchester, the Rail-
way and Steamship Companies kindly offered to carry them
free of cost, having done so before with 250 copies previously
ordered by the City Council. Not having taken advantage of
th, new arrangement by which passengers can go on board at
Montreal, I enjoyed the pleasure of a trip on the steamer
Quebec. This favorite steamer, although I had frequently
travelled by her twenty years ago, shows no sign of old age or
decrepitude, all the furniture and fittings seemed as fresh as
ever, and with her comfortable staterooms, her magnificent
saloon and luxurious meals, may be fitly styled a floating pal-
ace, of which any Canadian may feel proud.

The convenience of being transferred to the tender of the
ocean steamer, and then taken on board, and your baggage all

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

I <

safely placed on deck without the slightest trouble or annoy-
ance, is indeed most agreeable.

The ever attentive and ubiquitous stewards soon have every
thing wanted in your cabin snugly stowed away, while your
"not wanted " luggage goes down into the hold.

Although nearly -.11 the passengers had got on board at
Montreal, I found a good seat at the starboard table had been
secured for me, and as the napkin rings are numbered consecu-
tively from head to foot of the tables, and the stewards are
most particular in placing them in the same order at every
meal, you have no difficulty about your seat, after the first
meal, provided you can appear there at all. And here one of
the modern improvements strikes every old sailor, in the intro-
duction of revolving chairs on both sides of the tables, affording
the greatest facility in taking your seat at any time, and the
wonderful advantage of speedy egress in case of emergency, all
of which was unknown in the days of the old Cunarders, when,
if late, you had to climb past the backs of the passengers going
in, and the same coming out. The White Star Line must get
the credit of first introducing these chairs, and also of having
the saloon amidships.

Quebec.

The approach to Quebec, either from Montreal or from below,
is surpassingly beautiful and the scene full of historic interest.
The line of timber coves, with ships loading for Europe, show
the immense importance of this trade to Canada, while the
view of the city itself, the Gibraltar of Canada, looking down
on the most magnificent river in the world, the island of
Orleans, and the falls of Montmorency, with the picturesque
view of Levis on the opposite shore, form a panorama unexcelled,
if not unequalled, in the world. The effects of the land-slide
from beneath the esplanade to Champlain St., by which a num-
ber of houses and their inhabitants were destroyed, were visible
to the passengers, and excited much interest and sympathy.

Arriving at Rimouski, mails and passengers from the Inter-
colonial Railroad are taken aboard. Amongst the latter is

QUEBEC.

■

Christopher Robinson, Q.C., of Toronto, who takes the head of
the table, while the writer has the next seat, with Mr. and Mrs.
McGillivray, of Uxbridge, vl8-a-vis, our party beinjj a most
agreeable one, and all are evidently bent on enjoyment and
mutual friendliness.

As there had been easterly winds for several days, we were
informed, for our encouragement, that there must be a change
but soon proved that some of these " weatherwise " prophets
are frequently " otherwise," the wind continuing steadily in th^
same quarter, which was right in our teeth the whole of the
passage, so that the sailors had an easy time, the sails not hav-
ing been put in requisition the whole voyage, In addition to
thi^, we had very foggy weather, and after passing through the
Straits of Belle Isle, fell in with a large number of icebergs.
Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, with perfect confidence
in Captain Richardson, who spent most of his time on the
" bridge," and a pleasant lot of passengers, all bent on enjoy-
ment, nothing seemed to dampen the spirits or mar the pleasure
of delightful intercourse and social enjoyment.

The great bulk of the passengers were travelling for pleasure,
nearly all bent on seeing the Paris Exhibition and the Eiffel
Tower ; a few were English people returning from a visit ta
America, either on business or pleasure.

The Rev. R. R. Barron, of Liverpool, was returning, after
placing 170 boys on the North-West.

Mr. A. B. Owen, the Toronto agent of Dr. Barnardo, was on
his way to London to bring out the third batch of boys, also to
the North-West. He informed me that after the strictest
scrutiny on the part of agents, not more than three per cent,
had turned out badly. I regret to have to refer to a small
financial matter with this gentleman which impressed me rather
unfavorably, and may serve as a warning to others not to take
Canadian money, but to charge it for gold before starting. In
my hurry at Montreal visiting friends I omitted to change S21.
of Canadian bills, and knowing that Mr. Owen would be return-
ing to Toronto in a few weeks, asked him to give me gold, never
suspecting a " shave " from a fellow-citizen. I left the exchange

I ]

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

to himself, and found by his allowing only 4s. to the dollar, I
had just lost Ss. 6d. sterling, which I thought not a very friendly
transaction.

Besides the Rev. Mr. Barron we had the Rev, R. W. Bardsley,
one of seven brothers, all Church of England clergymen, one
being the Bishop of Sodor and Man, and the Rev. Mr. Reid, of
Ripon ; Dean Norman, of Quebec; and Rev. Father Phelan, of
St. Louis ; besides one or two other clergymen. The three Eng-
lish clergymen, all being musical, the services on Sunday were
made very interesting, and the concert on behalf of the Sailors'
Orphans' Home in Liverpool was a great success. There was
both morning and evening service in the saloon, and sermons,
the three clergymen officiating in full canonicals. In the after-
noon an address was delivered by Rev. Father Phelan, of St.
Louis.on "The Advantages of Travel," and his lecture was supple-
mented by the singing of French hymns by the passengers from
Montreal and Quebec.

The party being very musical, the music was exceptionally
good. As it may be interesting to some, I give a copy of the
programme rendered at the concert. The proceeds, added to
the collections, amounted to £18 sterling or $90, and when it is
borne in mind that these collections are taken on board every
steamer of every line sailing from Liverpool, it will be seen
how large an amount must be realized in a year for this noble
institution.

PROGRAMME OF ENTERTAINMENT IN AID OF THE
SEAMEN'S ORPHANAGE.

Friday, July 19, 1889.

B. M. S. Sardinian — Captain JVm. R'cha-dson,

FIRST PART.

Solo Pianoforte "Caprice" M^^ Donaldson.

Trio "Ye Shepherds " . . Revs. S. Reid, R, Bardsley,

and R. Barron.

Song "Nancy Lee " Mr. G. H. Wright.

Song "Flowers of the Alps" Miss Villeneuve.

Eecitation " The Soldier's Pardon " Mr. J. W, Hector.

THE COAST OF DONEGAL.

Song "Punchinello" Rev. S. Reid.

^^^^ "Josephine " Mrs. McGillivray.

Solo Banjo •« Medley " :Mr. E. L. Pollock.

Reading "The Raven " Rev. D. S. Phelan.

SoNO "Some Day " Miss.T. Rowlley.

Song "The Warrior Bold " Rev. R. W. Bardsley.

Song ««La8t Night " Mrs. Donaldson.

C'I'EE "See Our Oars " Sardinian Choir.

PioK Pockets— Miss Thorburn and Mies Tuson.

SECOND PART.

Madrigal "Since First I Saw Your Face " . . . . Sardinian Choir.

Song "Vicar of Bray " Mr. Gulliford.

Song " Wont you tf 11 me why, R )bin ?".... Mrn, Donaldson.

Song and ChuIius "Le Brigadier " Mr. J. T. Lavery.

Recitation.. ' Th« Lion and the Glove " Mr. D.>nald8on

Song "Meet Me Once A^ain " Rev. S. Reid!

Song "Annie Laurie" Miss Lindsay,

Song (Comiqce) '-Nobody Knows " Mr. C. Myer-.

Solo Banjo "Home, Sweet Home" Mr. E. L. Pollock.

Song " Poor Thing, Poor Thing " Crtptaiu Nusli, R. A.

Song "Wishes and Fishes" Mrs. Donaldson.

Song "If Doughty Deeds" Rev. R. B. Barrrnl

t^LEE "O Who Will O'er the Downs " , S irdiniau Choir.

Chair to be taken by C. Robinson, Q.C., at 8 p.m. Marine ambulances
at 10 o'clock p.m. L'ghts out at 12.30 a.m.

Mr. Christopher Kobinson made an excellent chairman, and
advocated the claims of the institution in a neat speech. In
explanation of the number in the programme entitled " Pick
Pockets " by two young ladies, one belonging to Toronto, he
said that fiom the fact that he had noticed them sellinfr 6d.
programmes for Is., he had no doubt their part would be a suc-
cess. It might have been called " L'offertoire de I'argent," as it
was simply the silver collection.

The Coast of Donegal.

Horn Head and Tory Island are objects of great interest to
travellers by the Allan steamers. The former is a huge prom-
ontory jutting out into the Atlantic, equipped with all the
needful qualities to charm the eye — bold cliffs rising from 500

;*..

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

to 700 feet above the sea, caves which can only be visited by
boat, and natural arches in the rocks, are all objects of great
interest to the tourist.

Tory Island is about eight miles from the coast, is about
three miles long and one wide. At the north-western end is the
fine lighthouse, the sight of whose light is so welcome at night
after a voyage.

As an instance of the skill of our captains, I may mention
that on a former voyage after two days of foggy weather,
during which no observation could be taken, when the fog lifted
we were within three miles of Tory Island, entirely by " dead
reckoning."

The .sight of the green fields of the Emerald Isle, first obtained
on the coast of Donegal, is very grateful and highly apprv<}ciated,
especially by those arriving for the first time by this route, and
the view continues all round past Lough Swilly and the various
headlands till Lough Foyle is entered, and the beauties of the
landscape become more visible as Greencastle and Moville are
reached. The appearance of comfort in the clean white houses,
the flocks of sheep, the green pastures and flourishing crops
elicited numerous questions as to where the Irish poverty and
misery prevailed.

If daylight continues, the sail past the Giant's Causeway,
although it must be seen properly from the land side, is most
enjoyable; Rathlin Island and the Mull of Cantyre being
also in view, after which the Isle of Man lies almost in the
steamer's course, altogether make this route a most delightful
ending to an Atlantic voyage.

And now the saloon tables are covered with guide books and
railway time tables, all travellers studying the routes they
intend to take from Liverpool.

Our arrival on Sunday morning does not hinder these
arrangements, as every facility is afforded by the Customs
examination, and in every other way, for passengers to pursue
their journey.

"While steaming up the river, the line of do jks extending for
six miles, and the forest of masts are objects of general interest

LIVERPOOL.

and admiration, while the arrangements for landin]L^ passengers
and luggage are perfect. There i.s no bustle, no confusion.
If passengers will just quietly wait while their baggage is
brought out of hold and staterooms by sailors and stewards,
they will find it all safely deposited in the examining room of
the Customs Department. Licensed porters, with a brass badge
and number, have the exclusive right to handle all the baggage,
and no extortion is possible, as their fees are regulated by
law.

I once saw a Canadian merchant who took his son over for
the first time, teaching him to be economical in the way of
porter's fees, and carrying their trunks contrary to the rules,
expecting to .save a shilling or two, but after examination the
head porter demanded his fee all the same, much to the chagrin
of the father and son. This system prevents much annoyance
and extortion.

Liverpool.

The great landing stage at Liverpool, a magnificent triumph
of skill and enterprise, affording accommodation for 20,000
persons, and facilities for landing passengers, and unloading
the whole ferry service, the Irish and Scotch, as well as the
coasting steamers, is also used for the landing of passengers and
baggage from the tenders of the ocean steamers.

This huge structure, with all its ticket offices, waiting and
refreshment rooms, and living freight, rising and falling with
the tide, and attached to the iron bridges by which access is
gained to the street level, is always available, and by one of
these bridges you are soon in the large Customs examining
room.

Under the nominally Free Trade system of England few
questions are asked by the polite officials, the only articles
dutiable being cigars, tobacco, or spirits, except reprints of
English copyright books, which are very properly confiscated,
as an officer said to me once on taking a copy of Harpers
Magazine, " These Americans live on other people's brains."

Having taken the precaution to keep in view a copy of

TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

" Toronto ' Called Back,' " by which I hoped to be saved the
trouble of opening five pieces of baggage, I showed the title
page to the Inspector, who asked nie if that was my name. On
answering in the affirmative and telling him I had no contra-
band articles, he instructed the officer to pass my baggage
without any examination. The latter official intjuired if the
book was in the libraries of Liverpool, and on being told he
could find it in several libraries and clubs, he said he must find
it out and read it.

The ordeal of examination being through, passengers by the
great railway lines will find agents, known by gilt letters on
their hat-bands, representing the different railway companies.
These gentlemen never solicit business, but are always ready
to answer questions and take charge of baggage for their
various lines, so that there is no confusion or delay ; and if cabs
are ordered, the fare is fixed by law, and the rate per mile
painted legibly on each.

And now scenes not witnessed for fifteen years, with some
changes, are passed on my way to the Exchange Station. This
is altered almost beyond recognition. The great flight of
stone steps has given place to a magnificent carriage entrance
direct from the street, and this is flanked by a splendid hotel
and shops, while inside the station has been extended to double
its former size, and your first impression is, what cleanliness,
what splendid pavements — stone and asphalt, solid, enduring,
perfect.

All the surroundings correspond ; waiting-rooms, ticket
offices, refreshment-rooms, " left-luggage" department, all indi-
cated by signs, rendering inquiries unnecessary.

My expectations as to attending morning church service
were disappointed by the lateness of our arrival ; but with the
exception of myself and the two Liverpool clergymen, all
seemed bound for railway travelling, and soon, each bent on his
own pursuit, was off" on the wings of steam, most for London.

Being fortunate in having friends at Waterloo, the first train
was taken, and I soon found myself perfectly at home in this
charming suburb. Every station, especially Bootle, is a

LIVERPOOL.

picture. Iron, stone, concrete, flower-beds, beauty, cleanliness,
solidity, perfection. No improvement could be suggested.

To the traveller whose stay in England is liniited, it is a
matter of great importance how to make the most of his time ;
and so, with so many events of great interest transpiring, it
became necessary for me to decide on my plans for nine weeks.
The first important event was the marriage of H. R. H. the Prin-
cess Louise of Wales to the Duke of Fife, which gave universal
satisfaction to all classes of the people.

On the question of the usual allowance for one of the Royal
family, Mr. Gladstone distinguished himself for his large ana
liberal views, and loyalty to the throne.

His speech was one of his most masterly effbrts, in which he
showed the comparative insignificance of the sums voted with
the wealth and prosperity of a great nation- The most absorb-
ing topics at this time were the tour of the Shah of Persia and
the trial of Mrs. Maybrick for poisoning her husband.

Having been in England during the trial of Doctor Palmer, in
the celebrated Riigeley poisoning case, over thirty years ago ; and
having seen the Tichborne claimaT^L at Westminster during his
trial, and the immense crowds waiting around Pcdace yard, to get
a glimpse of him on his way to and from the court ; and subse-
quently, having been present in the court-house in Manchester
when the four Fenians were sentenced to be hung ; I may say
that none of these cases created greater public interest than the
trial of Mrs. Maybrick. Her ladylike appearance and previous
character gained for her immense and widespread sympathy.
The newspapers were thrown open to correspondence on the
case, and never were opinions expressed more diametrically
opposite, not even in the Tichborne case, where families and
friends held directly opposite opinions ; and after the sentence
of death was passed these conflicting opinions continued as to
whether it would be carried out, till on the 23rd day of August
her sentence was commuted. It was said the ground on
which the reprieve was granted was that, while there was no
doubt Mrs. Maybrick had administered poison, it having been
proved that Mr. Maybrick used arsenic and other poisons con<

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

tinually, it could not be said the poison administered by Mrs.
Maybrick was the sole cause of his death, and in this way she
has escaped the doom of Palmer and the Manchester Fenians,
who paid the extreme penalty of the law.

The next great event was the arrival of the Emperor of
Germany, and the great naval review at Portsmouth. A*^! had
witnessed one even on a grander scale, which is described in
" Toronto ' Called Back,' " and while the temptation to witness
this was very great, I decided to deny myself this gratification.

The great rush of visitors to the Paris Exhibition under
Dther circumstances would have induced me to join in, especi-
ally to see the Eiffel Tower ; but having seen two exhibitions in
Paris, which I have also described, I made up my mind to
devote my time to the scattering of information about Toronto
and the great Dominion, and by so doing try to enjoy as much
gratification as the other attractions could aflford.

My first efforts were in Liverpool, where I left for further
orders 450 copies of my book in care of P. Byrne, Ersq., Ontario
Emigration Agent, and in placing copies in several clubs and
hotels not previously supplied.

It would be a great oversight to leave Liverpool, notwith-
standing a former residence there, and in the neighboring town
of St. Helen's, not to investigate the great works accomplished
and in progress since ray last visit.

The Mersey Tunnel.

Taking the opportunity of visiting Birkenhead on the invi-
tation of kind friends, first by the old ferry line, I must also
visit it by the wonderful Mersey tunnel. There being no
external sign of any approach to this subaqueous railroad, you
are directed to enter a large building on Water Street, which is
the entrance. On procuring your ticket, you enter what
appears to be a large waiting-room, but which is in reality a
" lift." This apartment holds about one hundred passengers,
and when the gates are shut you find yourself descending to
the level of the railway track. Here you find a fully-equipped
train, with a splendid road-bed, double-tracked, solid stone

THE MERSEY TUNNEL.

^ >

platforin, waiting-rooms, and every convenience, with abun-
dance of light and pure air. The system of pumping in air was
thoroughly examined by about two hundred of the Association
of American Mechanical Engineers, who had visited and
inspected this great work a few days previously, and who
expressed their delight and astonishment at the magnitude of
the work. The passage under the river was made on thi<<
occasion with tbe steamers City of Rome and City of New
York at anchor overhead, and fleets of ferry and other steamers,
and a little further up the river lay the Great Eastern, in
course of demolition by her last purchasers, and yet it was
hard to realize the fact. The whole line is as perfect as any
can be built, and extends for over a mile from the first station
at Birkenhead to its terminus.

During the previous week His Imperial Majesty the Shah of
Persia had been visiting Liverpool and Manchester. In the
latter city he made a careful inspection of the proposed docks
and works of the ship canal. The Shah was surprised to hear
that within fifty miles of Manchester there was a population of
about seven millions. The docks were sufficiently advanced to
enable him to form a pretty correct idea of their formation and
construction, and being conveyed by special train and in a
beautifully upholstered and decorated saloon carriage, to a
point opposite Weaste Church, on the Liverpool and Manchester
line, His Majesty had an opportunity of seeing the vast extent
of the works included in the Manchester docks.

At the close of the ship canal inspection the Mayor enter-
tained the members of the party, including the Persian Grand
Vizier, and other dignitaries in the suite of the Shah, in the
magnificent Town Hall, at luncheon.

This magnificent building in Albert Square, the name given
when the splendid statue of Prince Albert was placed there,
would require a large space for description. An idea of its
magnitude may be formed from the fact that the scaffolding,
which was all erected before the building was commenced, cost
£10,000 sterling. It is said to be the finest Town Hall in the
world, and in the bquare in front a whole army of soldiers

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

! I

The cotton mills of Manchester were subjects of special
interest to the Shah.

Emigration and Immigration.

Every patriotic colonist will voluntarily become an emigra-
tion agent. If not, it shows either dissatisfaction with the
country of his adoption, or a selfish, dog-in-the-manger feeling,
to deprive others of the benefits he himself enjoys. Having
decided to make Toronto my home, my first attempt at pro-
moting emigration was to go back to England within two years
of my arrival, and one year after establishing myself in busi-
ness as the youngest man who had ever ventured into the
importing trade. As a result of the visit, I formed a partner-
ship with Mr. James Stevenson, th .a living in London, and
with a cash capital of £1,000 sterling added to my own, was,
with the exception of Messrs. Bryce, McMurrich & Co., who had
a connection with the Glasgow firm, the largest capital that up
to that time had ever been brought bv a business firm into
Toronto. On my next visit, I paid the passage of a young man
in Manchester, who continued in my employment for seven
years, married a wife in Toronto, and left a family of sons and
daughters, who hold respectable positions in Toronto to-day,
and contribute materially to the revenue of the city. Shortly
after this, I was requested by a leading wholesale merchant to
meet a gentleman in Belfast, and advise him as to removing to
Toronto. The result of that interview was the establishment
of a business in Toronto which has continued for many years,
and which yielded in taxes to the city as much as $1,000 in
one year.

I give these as facts, not in the way of boasting, but to
contradict statements as to the undesirabilitv of encouraging
immigration except of the farming classes, and to show what
may be done by individual effort. Toronto has been built
up by men who, with a few exceptions, had nothing but
their brains and muscles. I might add to these instances many
others, but only give one more. A young man followed my
example in coming to Canada, and settled in a neighboring

EMIGRATION AND IMMIGRATION.

city, with a wife and two children. The late J. G. Bowes, at
that time Mayor of the city, and, like myself, in the wholesale
dry goods trade, wanted a young man to join a house about to
go into the dry goods trade, but having no knowledge of the
business, he asked me whether I knew of a suitable person,
stating at the same time that my recommendation would be
sufficient. I wrote to the party ; he came to Toronto, and
although none of the parties had ever seen or heard of each
other, the partnership was formed, and from that circumstance
has resulted a well-known firm of " brothers," engaged in large
business transactions and handling large amounts of capital.
The original firm is now one of the largest in the trade, with
several branches. And in addition to that, the transaction was
intimately connected with the establishment of the largest
wholesale business in Ontario, the history of which my limits
will not permit of my entering into. Besides all this, numbers of
letters of introduction to us were given to young men in England,
from time to time, many of whom have been induced to settle
here ; the last only a few weeks ago having succeeded in find-
ing employment as a clerk with the " John Doty Engine Co.,"
to whom I had the pleasure of showing the letter which intro-
duced the young man to me. These statements confirm my
introductory remarks in the first page of " Toronto ' Called
Back,' " where I say : " Since the writer's first trip to Europe
from this city, he has influenced a number of families to make
it their home, and they, in turn, have influenced others ; and
should, in the future, any capitalist, manufacturer, or any other
desirable citizen of any other city or country, be induced to
adopt Canada, and especially Toronto, as his future place of
residence, and contribute in any way to its wealth and popula-
tion, his object will be attained."

Ye men who in meetings and in parks air your theories on
political and municipal economy, and pander to the tastes of
the ignorant to gain popularity, whose knowledge of the world
is bounded by your residence on the one side and the Toronto
Bay on the other, let us see your record for forty years !
What have you done to build up our great city, and what are

I! I

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

you doing now ? There is not a man amongst you who, if
he migrated to-morrow, could not be replaced by a score
of a more useful class to the community. If you cannot
show a good record you had better cease your opposition, and
devote your energies to promote a healthy enngration, or give
way to the enterprising, the unselfish, the loyal and the patriotic,
who have made this " wilderness " of Toronto " blos-om as
the rose." These have been the progressive, the truly liberal
who, while a few croakers and grumblers have, Diogenes-like,
sat in their little tubs — and some such have alwaj's, I regret to
say, found their way into our City Council — have liberally
promoted every enterprise, and built up our proud and beau-
tiful city not only without the aid of the croakers, but in spite
of their narrow ideas.

Having given three years of my spare time to thepiaise and,
I hope, the benefit of my adopted city, 1 felt I could not lose
the opportunity of my visit to circulate the information gained
by forty years' residence in Canada ; and while there were great
attractions on every hand which, with less expense and much
more personal gratification, I might enjoy, I decided to devote
all my spare time to the object of enlightening as many as
possible as to the attractions of our city, and its wonderful
growth and progress, from personal knowledge. This I found
to be the key to the great interest of others on the subject, as
it was considered reliable.

Difficulties of Emigration Agents.

Never during the past fifty years has the question of emi-
gration been beset with so many difficulties as it is to-day.

The first great exodus of people from Ireland to America took
place in 1847. After the potato famine, the depletion, then
commenced, continued till the population of Ireland fell from
nine millions to about five millions. While a great many died
from starvation, notwithstanding the generous help and sympa-
thies of England and America, yet the loss from that cause would
soon^have been made up by the natural increase of the popu-
lation. Of those four millions, comparatively few found their way

DIFFICULTIES OF EMIGRATION AGENTS.

to Canada. The graves on Grosse Isle, the quarantine station,
testify to the numbers who had died on the voyage, and the
writer distinctly remembers the haggard and miserable appear-
ance of those who reached Toronto, and yet those who survived
were soon absorbed in the population.

This class, both in the United States and Canada, would be
classed as paupers, and numerous restrictions are imposed
against their entrance amongst us, while it is an undoubted
fact that from that class numbers of wealthy families in the
United States have descended. Admitting the objections to any
further immigration such as that referred to, not only from
Ireland but from the continent of Europe, from which millions
of the very scum of society were once freely welcomed to the
States, the question arises, from what classes are the millions
of acres in this new country to be filled up, and the resources of
the country developed.

It may be laid down, as a general rule, that no person who is
comfortably off and well-to-do in the Old Country will
expatriate himself as a matter of choice, with the exception of
some who, looking away ahead and not seeing the prospect of
having their family enjoying the same comforts as they now
enjoy, will summon resolution to break off the tender and
sacred ties of association with home and kindred, and in view
of prospective advantages, make sacrifices for the present.

No person can witnt^o the parting scenes at railway stations,
where friends separate never more to meet in this world, as the
writer has often witnessed, and even during his late visit, and
not be struck with the sense of the " wrench " that must be
endured by those whose circumstances compel them to emigrate,
parting from all that has been sacred from childhood.

"The village church among the trees,

Where once the marriage vows were given,
With merry peal that sweliad the breeze,
Pointing with tapering ppire to heaven."

These, and a thousand like associations, make the idea of
breaking off all these ties a matter of serious and sad con-
templation.

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Every person who knows anything of the question for forty
or fifty years, will admit that the United States has been filled
up with millions who were induced to leave home and Father-
land by the most exaggerated statements of the advantages the
country offered, and as all was "good fish that came into their
net " at that time, it is no wonder the country filled up in a
marvellous manner, while Canada still had the character of
being a land of ice and snow, of wolves, bears and wild Indians.

Referring to that time, a German writer said : " Several
works on the United States have appeared in Germany as
guides for emigrants. These books have obviously been written
by parties employed by speculators, whether land or ship
owners, perhaps by the American Government it.self. These
works are widely circulated in pamphlet form by agents
specially selected for their aptness in making ad captandiim,
appeals to the masses of the people and in .spreading far and
wide the most fabulous versions of Republican institutions and
Republican prosperity and wealth. The happiness of each
man dwelling under his own fig tree, and governed by laws of
his own making, was dwelt on with due emphasis. By
employing these deceptive means, the Americans induced large
bodies to leave, but now suffer from the bitter consequences of
their error in diverting the stream of emigration from its
natural and usual course, and directing it solely to their
own channel. For Germany itself the loss has been a gain — as
it has been an especial boon that so many impure elements
have been swept away from her shores, so many dangers
removed, that threatened her prosperity in a political, religious
and social point of view." The effect of this state of things
was, that in 1852 the New York Tribune stated that '• on an
average there were 100,000 souls in that city (about one-fourth
oi the population) desirous of procuring work who were unable
to obtain it." What would be said of the Ontario or Dominion
Governments to-day if they, by imprudence and recklessness,
caused such a state of things ? The danger is now that we
may «rr on the other extreme, and not use every legitimate
effort to promote emigration when the circumstances of the

DIFFICULTIES OF EMIGRATION AGENTS.

Old Country, especially of Great Britain and Ireland, render
the effort a hundred-l'old more difficult than before the present
time of unexampled prosperity at home. You are now met
everywhere with the statement : " Tha class of people we can
spare you will not take, and the classes you want we cannot
spare."

Any statements that either the Provincial or Dominion Gov-
ernments, or the Steamship Companies, are using undue influence
to bring undesirable emigmnts from Europe are both false and
malicious. Mr. Dyke, of Liverpool, the Dominion agent, said
not long ago, " It is hard to induce people to go that do not
want to go." The first thing to do is to inform the people who
think of emigrating as to the prospects the country affords and
the advantages offered by her great resources to the industrious
workman and the rich capitalist alike, as one will naturally
follow the other. As all such persons wishing for information
go direct to the public libraries, it is of the greatest importance
that these should be furnished with facts and figures in which
implicit confidence can be placed, and at the same time remove
all ignorance and prejudice that may have previously existed.
With this information, the next step will be to the Emigration
Agent for details as to locality, preparation for the journey,
and all other necessary instructions. In this waj' alone can the
tide be turned towards our own shores, and the capital now
being invested in foreign countries find a loilgment in this
great Dominion. I do not hesitate to say it would pay any
one individual, having large interests in Toronto, to distribute
suitable literature in Great Britain to the extent of thousands
of dollars, while for the city the problem of the smallest
amount of taxes on the largest assessment, by so doing, would
soon find a solution.

There is a class of persons, who may be regarded as paupers
in pocket, and adventurers in spirit, who, on leaving home to
" push their fortune," are perfectly indifferent as to what part of
America they come to, and probably do not know any distinc-
tion between Canada and the United States. This class does
not appear to meet with much favor at present.

TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

As you rise higher in the scale of intelligence and approach
the class who have means, and think their capital would be
better employed in Canada than the United States, you must
oifer them such reliable information as will enable them to
compare and weigh, and study such facts and figures as will
convince their judgment and lead them to a wise decision.
Such persons will seek out suitable literature, in the shape of
books from libraries and Mechanics' Institutes, take them home
and at the fire-side consult with their families before deciding
on a step so fraught with importance, and involving, as it does,
the future well-being of the whole family. These better
classes, whether of farmers, skilled artisans, or capitalists, are
naturally the most desirable, and, at the same time, the most
diflBcult to obtain, and here my patriotism became enough of
an inspiration as to lead me to offer such information as I
knew I possessed, and which no one from Toronto was at all
likely to give from personal knowledge, so that the announce-
ment of my subject of " Forty j'ears in Toronto, Canada ;" its
njarvelloiis growth and progress, with the development of its
manufacturing industries, illustrated with railway, geological,
and other maps, showing the great Dominion from the Atlantic
to the Pacific Oceans, with Toronto as the " Half-way House "
between England and China, Japan, and Australia, on the line
of the Canadian Pacific Railway, the great inter-oceanic high-
way, connecting the British Empire, seemed to attract attention,
and secured extensive reports through the press.

If any person doubts my patriotism, I have only to say I
undertook this work at a sacrifice of much time and pleasure,
as well as money.

That while I have paid tens of thousands of dollars into the
city treasury, I have never received one dollar of favor during
forty-two years, and do not expect any profit from the time and
labor expended during my leisure hours, for the past four
years.

Those who have read my book will find all this already
stated.

On the voyage over, I took the opportunity of conversing

DIFFICULTIES OF EMIGRATION AGENTS.

with a number of the steerap^e passengers, to find out their
reasons for returning to the Old Country. One old Yorkshire-
man, who had lived in Winnipeg, told me that he could not
endure the cold in winter, and was returning to Australia^
where he had lived before.

Another, a pale-faced, consumptive looking man, said he had
lived in Montreal, was a chair-maker by trade, but as chairs
were nearly all made by machinery in Canada, could get better
wages for liand-made work in England, moreover, he had
turned his attention more to " working for the Lord," which he
explained by saying he belonged to the Salvation Army. One
said he was going home for a wife, but I found the great bulk
were going over for the trip, and some were bound for the Paris
Exhibition, with the intention of returning to Canada.

Through the kindness of the Ontario and Dominion Govern*
mentsand the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, I provided
myself with maps of the Dominion, geological maps and all
trade and navigation returns ; statistics relating especially to
the trade of Toronto, maps of the city, views of public build-
ings, etc. With all these helps for illustration, and backed up by
the fact of forty years' residence — and above all, that I repre-
sented no emigration agency, political party, or government —
my introduction through my book secured for me everywhere the
most attentive hearing, and led to the numerous interviews with
members of the press.

Nor (lid I intend to press iipon these gentlemen any argu-
ment in favor of Protection versus Free Trade, but simply to
give facts as to the wonderful growth and progress of Toronto
and Canada, and the development of her manufacturing indus-
tries, as my book professes to give.

As was to be expected, this great prosperiti' was attributed to
other causes, such as the settlement of the North-West, and the
building of the Canadian Pacific Railway, but through all no
enemies were made ; nearly all being Free Traders, the most I
could do was to beg that Canada be excused by her rich parents
if she appeared to act in any unfriendly manner as to her tariff
regulations, on the ground that it was not from antagonism to
3

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

the Mother Country, but as protection against a hostile nei<>hbor,
they had been framed. Notwithstanding this precaution, it
was impossible to exclude the tariff question from the discus*
sion of emigration, interwoven as the Free Trade principle is
with the whole fibre of Lancashire and Yorkshire interests,
and the attempts of the " Fair Trade " party, with Mr. C. H.
Hibbert, Mayor of Chorley, as the moving spirit in the Man-
chester Chamber of Commerce, and with whom I have still
a pleasant correspondence, the Free Trade feeling predomin-
ates to such an extent that both parties, Conservative and
Liberal, are united on the question.

Mr. Philips, editor of the Manchester Examiner and Times,
whom I reminded of the change in the politics of his paper,
said: "Ye.s, we are Liberal-Unionists now, but as much in favor
of Free Trade as ever," and as my correspondence will show our
discussion on the subject I need not further refer to it here.

The Secretary of the Chamber of Commerce, Mr. Elijah Helm,
said to me : " The plunder and robbery of the feudal barons of
England were not to be compared for infamy with the robbery
of the people by the United States Government in taking
customs revenue of sixty per cent, out of the pockets of the
people."

My object was to give such information as might lead to turn
the tide of capital from the United States, which to the great
bulk of the people " America " means, almost ignoring the exis-
tence of Canada as a field for the investment of capital, and to
.show Toronto as the great centre for investors in which to
decide as to their destination amongst our great mineral and
agricultural districts where to choose, and that Toronto was the
greatest commercial centre in the greatest province of this great
Dominion, and whether as tourists, travellers, capitalists or
manufacturers seeking investments, or retired military, profes-
sional, sporting or business men seeking a future home, Toronto
possessed every attraction that could be desired for the present
and the brightest prospects for the futujre.
/ And with these views, I .selected the centre of the most
populous, as the :ii)st wealthy, district of England, or for that

MANCHESTER.

matter, in the world. The district within a radius of forty
miles around Manchester, contains a population of over seven
millions ; and one newspaper alone, which reported all I had to
say, has a circulation in 250 towns and villages.

Travelling from Liverpool by the old familiar route through
Wigan, and in sight of my old place of residence, indicated by
the black cloud perpetually hovering over St. Helen's, with its
great plate glass works, its smelting furnaces, chemical works,
and the immense manufactory of Beecham's Pills, I soon found
myself at the beautiful residence of friends at Heaton Grove, near
Bury, and just nine miles from Manchester, with trains by four
different routes every few minutes. I was in the very heart of
the manufacturing district of Lancashire, and here I made the
centre of my future excursions amongst towns already familiar
from previous residence.

Being fully alive to the touchiness of all Lancashire people
on the question of Free Trade, and their natural objection to
our policy of Protection, I knew I should have to guide my
ways with discretion ; and if I expressed my opinions freely, I
would be literally " bearding the lion in his den." I leave to
my readers to judge as to my actions and words. To meet the
leading men of every branch of trade, one of the first places to
visit is the Manchester Exchange.

Manchester.

The Manchester Royal Exchange is undoubtedly the greatest
emporium of commerce in the world, and the hall is the largest
ever constructed and used for purely commercial purposes.
The capital invested in the building is £800,000 (Si, 500,000).
It is a vast and noble building, constructed in the Italian style
of architecture. The main entrance is approached by steps to
the height of fifteen feet above the street level, thence leading
through a magnificent portico containing four hundred and
sixty square feet, which is inclosed within twelve massive stone
pillars, about sixty feet in height. At the north-east end of
the building there is a stately tower one hundred and eighty
feet high, and containing a fine clock. Above us the roof is

TOUONTO "CALLKD BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

crowned by three great domes, panelled with stained glass, the
central one reaching to the unusual altitude of one hundred and
twenty-live feet from the floor level, those on either side to
forty-five and sixty feet respectively. Aroiind is an unob-
structed area of forty thousand square feet, consisting of. a vast
nave, flanked on either side with Corinthian colunms of Irish
red marble and three spacious aisles, or arcades. At the
further end of the building, about thirty-five feet above the
floor level, there is an ornamental semicircular balcony, into
which the Master of the Exchange escorts distinguished visitors,
in order that they may witness the extraordinary sight pre-
sented at the time of " High 'Change."

Extending down the whole of the left wing, and some fifteen
feet above the floor level, there is a commodious reading
gallery, framed and enclosed from floor to roof with glass
panels, which looks into and commands a view of the hall
below ; and it is from this gallery that the best observations can
be made, and where the babel of noise is so hushed that you
might almost suppose you were in a separate building. This
reading-room is supplied with newspapers from all parts of the
world, and one hundred and six magazines of monthly issue
are always on »/!i». tables.

Ranging ulong both sides of the building are h series of
" drums," containing latest telegrams, latest commercial, political
and general information from all parts of the world, latest
quotations in general produce, iron, corn, and copper imports
anil exports, and reports from all foreign exchanges. There are
twenty telephones and a telegraph office, while high above the
main entrance doors are to be seen, in large letters, the opening
price of " consols," the " bank rate" of the day, and the opening
and closing " estimate " of the total sales of cotton at Liverpool
during the day. For the purpose of general observation, let us
enter the Exchange at about half-past one to two o'clock in the
afternoon, along with the hurried and impetuous multitude,
who are now rapidly flowing into the building, and by two
o'clock we may find ourselves in an assemblage of between six
and seven thousand persons, all moving about and transacting

MANCHESTER.

business, without any visible medium beyond the ceaseless hum
and roar of human voices. There is not the gesticulation and
facial contortion of the Paris Bourse, or the frenzied excitement
witnessed in Wall Street, New York, but there is a suppressed
intensity and earnestness of purpose visible in every face.
Here are buyers from Greece, Turkey, India, and Australia, the
transactions being on an enormous scale. Hundreds of
thousands of pieces of shirting for Calcutta have been ordered
in the morning, the goods sold there, and the order repeated
five times by telegraph in one day. Here are the agents for
the sale of raw cotton, representing Liverpool or American
firms, with the buyers from all the spinning towns in the
district, the town of Oldham alone using one-sixth of all the
cotton produced in the world, while the town of Blackburn is
the largest cotton manufacturing town in the world. These
spinners and weavers of cotton are all represented. Next in
order are the spinners and manufacturers of linen, silk, jute,
worsted, and multitudinous mixed fabrics. These are supple-
mented by the dyers, printers, finishers, and bleachers. These
are again augmented by dealers in coal, iron, timber, copper,
steel, and their resultants in the fofm of machinery, etc.
Besides all these, there is quite a small array of agents for life, fire,
and marine insurance, stock and financial brokers, dealers in
agricultural and other produce, such as indigo, fiax, chemicals,
drysaltery, etc., ad inJinituTn.

The extent of the business transacted is something enormous,
and cannot be estimated in detail. In the article of cloth, the
total sales have reached to twelve million yards in one day ;
and of yarn, which if reduced to singl threads, would be long
enough to girdle the globe sixteen hundred times successively,
or be equal to five thousand times its equatorial or polar diameter,
or reach from this planet to the moon one hundred and eighty
times in succession, or be equal to nearly twenty thousand
times that luminary's linear diameter ; or, to continue the cqm-
parison, it would be sufficient in length to reach almost half
way to the sun, or be equal to over fifty times its diameter.

Taking the sales of raw cotton in Liverpool at the moderate

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

total of ten thousand bales for the day (all paid for in cash),
and adopting the assumption that this quantity is sold in the
shape of yarn and cloth on the same day, and averaging these
bales at 300 pounds each, we gHt 3,000,000 pounds of cotton; at
the usual production of yarn from this quantity it amounts to
75,600,000,000 j-ards, which divided by 1,760 gives nearly
43,000,000 miles of yarn.

In this great rendezvous I met gentlemen with whom I
wished to converse on Canada, and as an illustration of the
views generally entertained as to emigration, just give one
instance of the opinion of a large manufacturer from Haalingden.

He said, "We can invest one hundred million in Canada if the
benefits can be shown, but we do not want to let our people
go. They all have employment and good wages." On my
remarking that I knew a large amount of Lancashire trade
had been lost by the Protective policy of the United States, he
replied, "It does not matter to us, as long as we can find a
market for what we produce, and as to Protection, we defy the
world. Trade has never been so good in England an it is
to-day." He then invited me to visit his mills, and informed
me that he had families in his employment whose aggregate
wages amounted to £200 a year. The fathers got a guinea a
week, and sons and daughters averaged sixteen shillings, which
soon ran up to $1,000 a year, while a comfortable brick
house could be got for ten pounds a year. The ordinary rent
for small houses, of which there are miles of streets in these
manufacturing towns, is only from six to eight pounds a year.
He said, ' When you have seen my mill on Saturday, if you
will come to my Sunday-school on Sunday, you shall find it
difficult to tell tbo teachers from the scholars, who, although
working girls, are as well dre.ssed as their teachers." And
added, " At our Methodist Chapel some of these foremen opera-
tives will put their sovereign on the collection plate."

■S'^

MANCHESTER SHIP CANAL.

Manchester Ship Canal.

Sir George Head, describing a journey from Manchester to
Liverpool in 1834, says, "The packet-boat in which we travelled
made the journey in fourteen hours, and breakfast and dinner
were provided on board at one shillino- each meal. At dinner
we had a salted .sirloin of beef with a profusion of fried onions,
radishes and lettuces, together with a good mild cheese. Not-
withstanding the delights of the table, the voyage seemed
desperately long." Just fifty-six years ago ! and the journey
now is done by rail, thirty-five miles in about as many minutes,
and passengers will grumble if trains are one minute late.

The author, in 1835, describing the works at Runcorn, above
Liverpool, says, "The canal basin, the boats on which were drawn
by horses, the quays and the St. Helen's railroad, all these
objects may be considered, even at the present day, as speci-
mens of splendid workmanship."

The boat was towed at the rate of about five miles an hour
by a couple of clumsy cart horses, half the strength of one
horse being continually exerted to prevent itself from being
dragged into the canal by the other.

The two small boys who rode one on each of these unfortunate
horses exhibited an utter insensibility to that lively state of
muscle which is the result of a well-tutored mouth.

They whipped and kicked as if sitting across u tree, while
the horses tugged and reeled, one pulling one way and the
other another. In the meantime the riders, in worsted stock-
ings, with thick country-made shoes, were healthy and active,
jumping on and off according to their fancy, without stopping
the boats or creating any delay. Sometimes they ran for a
quarter of an hour together, and then they mounted in a way
of their own, merely placing a foot on the chain trace and a
hand on the belly girth. Each boy was about twelve years old,
yet these little fellows rode every day the whole distance, one
day up the other down, thirty-two miles, hot or cold, wet or dry,
winter or summer.

From Runcorn to Manchester, by the Duke ol Bridgewater's

TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

canal, took six hours. A more circuitous route, by Leeds and
Liverpool Navigation Company, took fourteen hours.

Eastham, where the great ship canal starts, is on the opposite
or Cheshire side of the river from Liverpool, and the end of
navigation for vessels, a sand-bar across the river preventing
further progress.

Eastham has long been famous as a pleasure resort, and is the
longest ferry trip. From New Brighton upwards there are
several, including Birkenhead. The change from my last visit
is indeed marvellous.

The new canal is not intended for passenger traffic, hut - a
means of taking ocean-going vessels with unbroken cargoes to
the very heart of the great manufacturing district of Lancashire,
and is an undertaking worthy of the enterprise and wealth of
the great capitalists and merchant princes of England.

My first view of the works was at Eastham, just where the
canal will join the Mersey, and here the last completing con-
nection will be made, no doubt, with all the eclat and magnifi-
cent demonstrations corresponding with the consummation of so
stupendous a work, and while there may be some jealousy on
the part uf Liverpool people, there is too much magnanimity on
the part of those great " dock owners " to mar the general
enthusiasm.

The first great lock was in course of construction at Eastham,
anu the scene presented was one calculated to inspire wonder at
the skill which designed, and the energy which is at work in
the carrying out of the enterprise.

The lock here will enable vessels to enter the canal whether
the tide is high or low, when at full the water being level with
the canal.

It may be asked, what have Canadians to do with a ship
canal from Liverpool to Manchester? Every day's experience
shows the intimate connection which is growing stronger
between all the parts of the British Empire and the tendency
to closer commercial relations, and this grbat undertaking will
form'' another link in th;i chain.

As great Britain is destined to be the great market for the

MANCHESTER SHIP CANAL.

cereal productions of Canada, it cannot fail to interest Canadians.
The opening of the Manchester ship canal will materially
reduce the cost of transportation from Montreal and Quebec,
and it is to be hoped even direct from Toronto without breaking
bulk, to the very heart of the manufacturing districts of Lanca-
shire and Yorkshire. A few figures will show the extent of
this trade in " breadstuffs."

In July last a party of seventy corn trierchants visited the
canal, and having inspected the whole plans, signed a statement
to the effect that an import of at least one half the quantity of
cereals now landed at Liverpool will be carried over the .ship
canal. The import of cereals into the United Kingdom in 1883
was 7,942,369 tons ; assuming that there will be a similar per-
centage of increment for the ten years ending in 1893, the
import will amount to 12,747,497 tons.

The proportion of this calculated to arrive in Liverpool will
be 1,898,200 tons, one half of which is expected to be carried by
the ship canal to Manchester. Manchester will then be the
nearest port to a population of over seven millions of people.

The import of wheat and flour averages about 2 cwts per
head, or about 700,000 tons per year for the population of the
canal district. If the canal gets all this they will have a cargo
of grain every day, and all the land carriage between Liverpool
and Manchester entirely saved.

Another advantage will accrue to the manufacturers. In a
document signed by 400 cotton-spinning firms, representing
20,000,000 spindles, they say the advantages that would accrue
to the cotton trade by the direct import of cotton into Man-
chester, and the .saving on charges, would be so great that they
think nearly all the cotton they consume would come by the
canal.

The annual irapoitation of cotton to Liverpool exceeds 765,000
tons. Half a million of this is consumed in the Manchester
district, besides the saving in carriage to other districts in
Yorkshire. ,

It is said that the saving to the cotton trade by the use of the
canal will be £450,000 yearly. Blackburn alone saving £13,000

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIOUATION.

on hor exports. There are Xla.OOO.OOO sterlinj]f invcvsted in the
cotton trade in the town of Ohlhani, where are 10,000,000
spinrUes, consumin;^ 170 000 tons of cotton cvtiry year.

B}' use of the canal, a HMhiction of (is. Mil. per ton carriage will
be effeetoil, or about Xoo 000 j)er antiuui. When is adlcd to all
this the retiuetion in fn>ijjfht on jifoods shipped to Oanatla, and
land carria<re to jjiverpool entirely saved, this great work nmst
be regarded as involving very important interests to the
Dominion.

In add'ti n to this world-famous ship canal, which is
expected tt) 1>< o(»ene(i in 1S!)2, Manchester has in hand another
great enterprise, which will be completed about the same time.

The corporation is bringing water from the lake district to
the city, a ilistance of about 100 miles.

The foundation stone of the embankment at Thirhnere Lake
was laid a few days ago, by Sir John Harwood, Alderman, in
the presence of the meml)ers of the City Council.

When cojupleted it will bo possible, by means of the aqueduct,
to supply the city with .'>0,000,000 gallons of water per day.
But for the present only one line of pipes will be laid, which
will give 10,000,000 gallons daily. The works will cost for
this iirst instalment of 10,000,000 gallons, :$8.700,000, and for
the ultimate full supply $20,000,000.

The drainage area to be appropriated is 11,000 acres.

The following statistics will doubtless be found interesting?

Total length of canal, 35| miles ; minimum width of canal at
bottom, 120 feet ; averagf width at water level, 172 feet ; size of
largest locks, 600 x 80 ft.; size of intermediate locks, .'150 x 50 ft;
area of water space for Manchester and Salford docks, 114 acres ;
area of quay space, 152 acres ; length of quays, 5^ miles ; number
of steam navigators, including 3 German and French, and 58
Rustin and Proctor, 96 ; large floating dredger, 1 ; locomotives,
169 ; steam cranes, 166 ; portable and other engines, 128 ; steam
pumps, 187 ; waggons. 5,900 ; pile engines, 40 ; length in miles of
temporary railway, 213 ; number of men and boys, 11,489;
horses, 182.

Visitors to^Eastham will be struck with the magnitude of the

EAHTHAM.

locks there, wliich are now nearing completion.

These locks

have been hnilt to accoininodate the lar^(!st stearnship afloat.

The nU,/ of Parin (S.S.), 5M0 fe«!t in l(;nf,'th, tlie hirgest
vessel now afloat, couhi ^o cornfortal)ly through.

While inspecting tliene great works, I took the opportunity
of speaking to several of the "navvies." On inrpjiring as to
the wages they rec«jiv<Ml, I was told they get sixpence an hour,
and can work ten hours if they pleas*;, ecjnal to fivtj shillings, or
one dollar and a rpmrter per day. Some get only fivepence, or
one dollar a day. On speaking of wages in Canada, they .said,
they had known men to cf)me out here and go hack again. One
man asked me what the price of a passage would be, and on
mentioning about five pounds, he .said, " But where could I get
that much ? I can only live and .support my family from day
to day, and cannot .save any money." As with the operative
clas8e.s, the great advantage these i)eople have in England is in
lower rents of houses.

Eastham.

The " Richmond of the Mersey," having suddenly become
famous in connection with the great .ship canal, deserves some
special notice, not only in view of its important future, but as
having a histoiiy, although little more than a nook among the
trees, which is full of interest.

In olden times, Eastham was used as a coaching station, forty
coaches a day passing daily through the villa.;e. It ha.s many
attractions for visitors, amongst which is the Church of St.
Mary. This church is built on the site of an older building, of
which the only relic is the ancient font, in which the villagers
have been baptized for well nigh 900 years.

The church has a beautiful series of five windows, represent-
ing patriarchs, judges, priests, kings and prophets. This is
some of the finest, modern stained glass in England.

The Stanley Chapel, built in 1500, is entered through a
beautiful oak screen, adorned with the arms and quarterings of
the Stanleys of Hooton.

Beneath the pavement is the vault containing the remains of
many generations of that ancient house.

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

There are two altar tombs, the one, that of Sir Wm. Stanley,
who died in 1612 ; the other of alabaster, that of his grand-
father, Sir Rowland, dying in 1613, at the age of twenty-six.

The reredos in the sanctuary is of alabaster, and on the
panels are represented the instruments of our Lord's passion.

Hooton Hall.

Within a short distance of Eastham, is Hooton Hall, standing
in an extensive park. The hall contains a magnificent picture
gallery and suite of drawing-rooms. The stables attached to
the hall were formerly stocked with a stud of thoroughbreds of
known excellence, and of great value. Here were born and
reared many " Derby " favorites.

Bolton Town Hall.

While the general architecture of Bolton is similar to most
other manufacturing towns, the new Town Hall stands out as a
splendid specimen of the many such which are to be found in
all the large English towns.

Situated in an open square, and in the centre of the town,
every one of the four sides seems perfect in grandeur of design
and beauty of execution. The style is classic, partly Roman and
partly Greek. The whole building is surrounded with magni-
ficent Corinthian columns, which, with the building itself, are
of cut stone.

The height of the front is sixty-three feet, the great hall rises
out of the centre to the height of eighty-one feet, and the main
tower to a total height of two hundred feet.

In the tympanum of the pediment over the main entrance are
sculptured figures by the eminent sculptor, Mr. W. Calder
Marshall. The central figure represents Bolton with a mural
crown and holding a shield, on which is emblazoned the borough
arms. The figures to the right and left represent " Manu-
factures "and "Commerce;" the former holds adistafi'.and leans
upon a bale of goods, whilst near her are a cylinder and a wheel,
symbolical of machinery. A Negro boy bears a basket of cotton,
and " Earth," in the angle, pours her gifts from a cornucopia.

■T^'.K

BOLTON TOWN HALL.

On the left of the principal figure is " Commerce " holding the
helm, a boy holds a boat by the bow, and in the angle is
" Ocean," typical of the wide extent over which the manu-
factures of the town have spread. The figures are of Portland
stone, and upon a scale of eight feet if standing.

The appropriateness of "Ocean" is well known to those who
have bu mess connections with this great seat of manufactures.

There is no country in the world where white counterpanes
do duty on a sleeping couch in which the productions of the
great firm of The Barlow^ & Jones Co., limited, are not known,
this firm employing thousands of people in their special trade,
and supplying all ranks from the humble cottage to the
kingly palace.

The interior of the Hall is similar to that of Manchester,
having a continuous corridor all around it communicating with
the business rooms, which are external to the corridor.

The oflficials all wear (as in every civic building of any pre-
tensions) an elegant uniform, with gold lace, and are uniformly
polite and attentive to visitors.

It would require too much space to describe this grand monu-
ment dedicated to the wealth and prosperity of this prosperous
town. From basement to tower every detail seems perfect for
convenience and elaborate in finish.

There are the Police Department, Rate Office, Treasurer's
Pay Office, and Waterworks Offices in the basement, the centre
portion under the large hall being utilized as a muster and drill
hall for the police. The floor of the grand entrance is elabo-
rately paved by Minton, Holiins & Co., the beautiful design
containing in circles the Royal Arms, etc. On the first floor are
the Mayor's reception and banqueting room, and the Council
Chamber, also the Sessions Court and Grand Jury Room. The
great hall is one hundred and twelve feet long by fifty-six
wide and fifty-six in height, and seats eighteen hundred
persons. The decorations of this hall are of a superb descrip-
tion, founded on " Greek type." The panels and pilasters, as
well as the ceilings and walls, are of the richest coloring, while
the ornamentation in the form of mottoes and allegorical

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

figures, with the several quarterings of the British Arms, form a
tout ensemble which is dazzlingly beautiful. The magnificent
organ completes the general ett'ect. The decorations of the
Council Chamber and the Mayor's banqueting room correspond
with the great hall, and arc indeed superb. The ceilings are
richly decorated, and at intervals, around the walls of the
Council Chamber, are emblematic female figures, representing
fifteen of the industries of the locality. The clock in the tower
is one of the largest in England, and has four dials twelve feet
in diameter. The total cost of this splendid structure, including
purchase of site, was £150,000 ($7r)0,000). It was opened by
the Prince and Princess of Wales, on June 5th, 1873.

Close by is the Public Library, to which my first visit was
paid, and being only a few minutes by rail from my temporary
home in Bury, I paid frequent visits to this library and other
places. My first interview with Mr. Waite, the librarian, was a
most agreeable one, the mention of my name in connection
with "Toronto 'Called Back,'" secured me every attention, and
I soon found myself in the hands of a reporter from the Bolton
Evening News, the result of which appeared in that paper as
follows :

A CANADIAN IN BOLTON.

EMIGRANTS PROSPECTS.

Mr. Conyngham Crawford Taylor, of Her Majesty's Customs,
Toronto, who is at present staying with relatives at Heaton
Grove, near Bury, who are leading people there, has paid
several visits to Bolton within the last few days. He is the
author of a recent work entitled "Toronto 'Called Back' from
1888 to 1847, and the Queen's Jubilee," in which he records the
rapid growth and progress of the city. The book, which has
been commended by many eminent men in Canada and this
country, is dedicated to the Hon. John Beverley Robinson,
Lieutenant-Governor of Ontario. As the views of the future
of our Canadian dominions cannot fail to intere>t the commu-
nity, in the opinion of one so well qualified to judge as Mr.
Taylor, we have pleasure in retailing them to our readers.
There is no doubt at all, said he, in reply to oUr inquiry as to
his opiniqn of the value of the work advocated by the National

A CANADIAN IN HOLTON.

Association for Promoting State Colonization, there is ample
room in Canada for fifty millions of people. We want all the
settlers we can get, especially those who have u little capital.
Such people will get grants ol land, which will hecome a splen-
did heritage for their children. The soil is most prolific, need-
ing only energy, industry and sobriety.

Liquor is not admitted at all into some of the settlements.
In Manitoba, amongst the Indians and in the Temperance
Colonization Society's district, as well as in the North-West
Territories, drink is entirely prohibited, and the .settlers are
prospt-riiig and getting rich. Every alternate block of one
hundred and sixty acres is re.served by the Government, so as to
give the adjacent settler a chance, if he desires at a future time,
of adding that much by purchase to his land. Lots of these
men have bought up these adjoining plots. The present popu-
lation of Canada is nearly five millions, and, as I have said, there
is room for ten times that number. The Canadian Pacific
Railroad is three thousand miles long, and extends from the
Atlantic to the Pacific. Th 3 Dominion, as well as all our Pro-
vincial governments, are exceedingly careful not to encourage
anything like pauper emigration. We do not, like our United
States friends, take all the riff-raff we can get hold of. Govern-
ment has stopped assisting emigrants, and allow emigration to
take its natural course. I have seen Mr. Byrne, the Ontario
Emigration Agent at Liverpool, and he rather favors taking
more active measures for promoting emigration. We hear emi-
gration discouraged, Mr. Taylor ? Yes, our visitor replied, there
is a class of men who try to stop emigration, saying there is no
more room for emigrants of the artizan and laboring classes,
especially in the town^ and cities. They think more people
will lead to increased competition und the bringing down of
wages. Sir Charles Tupper, Bart., the ( Canadian (.Commissioner
in London, advocates the emigration of a respectable class of
working men.

Mr. Taylor is a fair trader, but lie sees that exclusive deal-
ing won't do in regard to opening out and developing the re-
sources of his adopted country.and in his "Toronto 'Called Back' "
says : " Never in the last forty years was there a better pros-
pect for skilled or unskilled labor than presents itself at the
present moment, and no better proof of this could be given
than in the success of the very men who would now stay
the tide of emigration by a kind of dog-in-the-manger
policy. During these forty years there never was a time when
such statements were not made as might have deterred these

TORONTO " (^ALLED RACK AND EMIGRATION.

very mon or thoir forcfathors from hinding on our shores. .

Are our towns and cities to C(;ase ^rowin^ ? Is our popula-
tion goinj; to decrease ? Who will dare to predict such a thin^if
in the face of such unparalleled progress, while the prospects of
the future are even more encouraij;in;j; ?" The trades organiza-
tion, however, says Mr. Taylor, iloes not attempt to influe.ice
anybody against settling on land in the North-West. Poverty
in Canada ? 1 have seen more poverty, Mr. Taylor assured
us, in the streets of a few English towns in the last few
weeks than I observed in Canada in the whol«; fifteen years
since I was here before. Beggars in Canada are arrested. In
Toronto we have provision made for every class of need by a
charitable organization. There is no such thing as want known
in the country. The only paupers are those whom wo call
tramps. Families in need are visited by committees of ladies
and gentlemen. Districts are mapped out, and every house is
visited, and cases of need are reported on to the Board of the
House of Industry. That is the only poor-house we have.
Invalids and cripples are permanently lodged in the House of
Industry. There are not more than eighty people of this
character on an average out of 180,000 people. Casuals who
say they are out of employment are taken in for one night.
First of all they are bathed, and for their food and lodging
they are expected to split some timber, and in ninety cases out
of a hundred they do not come again.

SOBER TORONTO.

We had your Bishop (4' Rochester at Toronto two years
ago. He stated that if j'ou in England had accomplished what
we have done, closed the liquor places from seven o'clock on
Saturday till six o'clock on Monday morning, he could hardly
estimate the good results that would follow. At Bury, on
Sunday night, as I walked from the parish church, there were
crowds going into the taverns. In the church 1 could count
seven women for one man. Our Toronto men go to church as
well as the women. A man seen going into a tavern in Toronto
on Sunday, even had he a chance, would be considered a lawless
character. We have a sober city.

The sending out of children to Canada, Mr. Taylor says, has
been attended with the greatest success. Your street arabs
could all be comfortably placed in Canada. I have the testi-
mony of Mr. Owen, Dr. Barnardo's agent, who has been for his
third batch this season, that they turn out tvell. Dr. Stephen-
son, Miss Rye and Dr. Barnardo are exceedingly careful in

A CANADIAN IN BOLTON.

4»

Dr. Burnavdo has

nine ajjents

making thoir selection.s.

travelling among the hoys' horruss, and his testimony is that
they can only find five; per cent, who are reported oh having
turned out ill or have run away, and only one and a-half per
cent, prove criminal.s.

CANADIAN LOYAI/rV.

Mr. Taylor believes the ('anadians far more loyal to the
Crown than we are in the Old Oountry. They honor the
Queen's Birthday as a great event, hut in Kngland he finds the
people don't even know when it i.s. There is no disposition to
join the United States. The feeling against annexation is
growing every day. Mr. Taylor holds that the Canadians will
never consent to let in American goods without tarifi". (Cana-
dians having their own communication from the Atlantic to
the Pacific, were the Americans to adopt retaliatory tariffs,
they would only be cutting their own throats. At present a
large portion of the goods go through New York

THE CANADIAN TARIFF.

Well, you ask about Free Trade. We have to protect our-
selves against United States competition. You say England
has prospered under Free Trade. Yes, but it is through the
opening up of new markets.

(!HEAI' lUlEAD.

What do you say about cheap bread, Mr. Taylor ? Oh, give
U8 a chance of sending you breadstuffs. Give us a differential
duty as against the United States. We can send all you want.
They shut out your goods We wouhi be content with as low
a tariff as we could possibly live upon. I think you ought to
have reciprocal tarifis. If people won't havn your goods, I
woulil not have theirs of a similar kind. Mr. Taylor referred
us to his book for evidence of the growth of Toronto trades and
manufactures, and truly the record is a wonderful one.

In reference to my statement about Dr. Barnardo''^ children,
I knew nothing at the time of what has been stated lately as
to inlierited diseases.

My visits to Bolton reminded me of having once driven from
Bury nine miles to hear the late Rev. Dr. Punshon preach,
when before an immense congregation he gave a sermon, " word

TORONTO "CALLEO HACK" AND EMIQUATION.

for word," which I had hoard a few weoks hefoie. On relating
the circuinstancu to the Doctor afterwards in Toronto, he was
much amused.

Blackburn.

The town of Hhickl)urn is the hirgest cotton manufacturing
town in the world, as distinguished froni Oldham, which con-
flumcH one-sixth of all the cotton produced in the world, but
is noted for spinning yarn, while Blackhurn produces the cloth.
The population is 120,000, about three-fourths of which is
ongagoil in the cotton trade.

It is said, the cause of the groat business is, that from the situa-
tion of the town being chieHy in a valley, the air is favorable for
weaving cotton, which is a.ssisted by a damp or m t atmos-
phere. While this is true of the town itself, the *bs are
on high ground and the residential streets are .so far up these
hills as to be impassable for carriages, the grade is so steep.

Blackburn has a park, which, for beauty of arrangement and
both natural and artificial attractions, cannot be surpassed.

During the cotton famine immense .sums of money were
expended, for the purpose of giving employment to the people,
and since that time it has steadily improved.

Entering by splendid iron gates and passing the gate keeper's
beautiful stcme residence, you may wander for miles, surrounded
by beds of Mowers and over the softest and most verdant turf.
Ascending by serpentine roadways, you pass terrace after
terrace, amidst artificial lakes with swans ^^ailing majestically
on the placid surface, .streams crossed by rustic bridges, and
approaching the highest ground by steps cut out of the solid
rock, amidst foliage of the richest, evergreens and flowering
slirubs, you stand on a height from which the town is seen
lying at your feet, with surrounding villages nestling in the
richest pasture land ; while towards the west you get a view of
the river Ribble at Lytham, the celebrated sea-side resort,
close to the English Channel, and away to the great town of
Preston.

My first visit in Blackburn was to the' library and museum,
whdre I was cordially received by Mr. Qeddes, the librarian,

BLACK lUJUN.

since (lucuaAcd, who kindly refurred to Uk; interest taken in
" Toronto ' Called Buck,' " and having seen some of the leading
men of the town, and havin){ asked Mr. Councillor Oregson, a
pronounced Free Trader and advanced liihijral, to act as chairman
at a meeting, who having kindly consotited, I ventured to
atldress a public audience for the first time in my life. Before
doing 80 an interview took place which is here noticed.

Fnrm the Blackburn Exprena and Slam lard ( Fair Trade),
Augmt Ixt, IHS'.t.

Our readers who take an interest in fiscal matters will
be well repaid f( . any time expended upon it V^y a perusal
of a short account of an interview with Mr. Taylor, of the
Toronto Customs, which we give in another column, in which
Mr. Taylor unreservedly expresses his opinion upon vexed
fiscal questions. As an outsider he may be reckoned to be
posted up in the game, and he unhesitatingly gives the opinion
that Great Britain would be a gainer if she put an end to the
present system of keeping an open market at home whilst all
the markets of the world are closed against her. In any event,
however, the Fair Trade policy has been the salvation of the
Dominion, and that the working people have benefited by it is
illustrated by one luminous fact. In 187H the number of deposi-
tors in the Post Office Savings Bar\J<s of the country was
25,535, and the amount of their savings $2,754,484.03 ; in 1883
the depositors numbered 61,059, and the deposits totalled up to
$11,976,237.31 ; while last year the depositors were 101,963,
and the deposits reached $20,089,032.62. These figures certainly
speak of vigorous health and a strong bounding pulse.

A colonist's view of free trade.

The other day Mr. Conyngham Crawford Taylor, of Her
Majesty's Cu.stoms, Toronto, who is just now on a visit to
England, having arrived in this country by the Sardinian, from
Montreal, called at the offices of this journal. He is making
his stay in Lancashire for a short time, and is at present with
relatives at Heaton Grove, near Bury. Mr. Taylor is the
author of a work entitled Toronto " Called Back " from 1888
to 1847, and the Queen's Jubilee, in which is detailed the
wonderful growth and progress of Toronto, and especially the
development of its manufacturing industries. The work is now

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

; I

in an enlarged and revised edition, and is having a considerable
circulation in this country. In an agreeaVjle interview we
gathered the following particulars in regard to Canada and her
protective policy, from Mr. Taylor : —

How long have you had a position in the Customs ?

Close upon seven years. I first went to Canada in 1847.

Of course your position in the Toronto Custom house gives
you unusual facilities for observing the growth and develop-
ment of Canada ?

That is so. I have the whole trade at my fingers' ends, and
possess in the very nature of things unlimited information on
the subject.

Generally, then, you could say what condition the trade of
the country is in at the pre.sent time ?

Yes, and I can say Canada is exceedingly prosperous, and has
been specially so since the National, called the Protective,
policy was introduced eight years ago. Toronto alone in that
period has doubled its population, springing from 90,000 to
180,000.

In what way do you consider the protective tariff has
assisted in the development of Canadian industrj- ?

Prior to the adoption of the protective policy we were the
victims of the United States manufacturers, who flooded the
Dominion. This compelled us to protect our own products as
our only hope of salvation. It is in the festering, and the
consequent development of home manufactuies, that we have
benefited by Piotection.

You did not find the system of an open market beneficial to
the country ?

Quite the contrary. Now, not only is our manufacturing
interest protected, but our operatives are protected from foreign
labor.

In the United States is there anything like a bounty system
upon goods sent into Canada ?

Perhaps not, but there is a good deal of dishonest invoicing
of goods coming into Canada from the States, in order to get
them in at a low rate of duty, and seizures are consequently
made in consequence.

What kind of goods did you find they were sending that
militated against your own industries ?

Everything ahnost, woollen and cotton goods, watches, clocks,
agricultural implements, cutlery, furniture and pianos, of which
we have six large factories in Toronto, employing hundreds of
hands/ and turning out a{)out fifty pianos a week.

BLACKBURN.

So far as Toronto itself is concerned, can you call to mind any
new trades that have sprung up into being since you adopted
the new tactics ?

The new trades as a direct result of our protective policy are
very numerous indeed. The growth of industries is especially
noticeable in regard to blanket mills, carriage works, and
premises for the making of agricultural implements. We make
our own stationary engines and elevators for hotels and other
high buildings.

Do you make hardware and machinery such as is generally
used on farms ?

Yes, we make all our own agricultural implements.

Have you spinning and weaving mills ?

Yes, both, and hosiery manufactories besides.

Had you any of these manufactures previous to 1881 ?

None to, speak of. You know, of course, that in this country
there is a very strong division of opinion between Fair Trade
and Free Trade ?

That is what I want to get at. You have been interested in
trade and commerce all your life ?

When I went to Toronto I was the youngest importer in the
city.

You are quite convinced, so far as Canada is concerned, that
the Fair Trade policy has been the salvation of the
Dominion ?

I am certain of it. That, indeed, is a point on which both
parties are agreed. The Opposition would not think of altering
the tariff, in any material degree, the feeling is so strong in its
favor.

Like all other people holding your opinions, you think
that Free not Fair Trade universally applied would be the best
thing ?

Certainly, all over the world.

You do not think, on the other hand, that a nation adopting a
Free Trade policy, when all the neighboring nations were on the
other tack, would have anything like a fair chance ?

It could not possibly. We think that England cannot main-
tain her trade, excepting by opening up new markets.

What do you think, as an outsider, would be the best thing
Ergland could do commercially for the welfare of its enormously
excessive populations ?

I certainly think she ought to protect herself, especially
against the United States and the Germans.

You are of opinion that the States and Germany simply

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

English

markets a sort of happy hunting

make our
ground ?

Precisely so.

Before you went into the Customs, you acted as agent in the
States as well as in Canada ?

For an old Manchester house, and my journej'^a used to
extend from New York to St. Louis in the west. I found a
ready market until such times as the Americans raised their
tariff, which became entirely prohibitory except for goods that
they did not manufacture.

The effect of the Morill tariff (with you individually when
you were a trader used as a kind of vade mecum I suppose),
would be to ruin a lot of people in England ?

Yes ; we were accustomed to say they were taking the bread
out of the English mouth every day.

You have no idea of coming back to this country to
retire ?

None whatever. I have my family in Toronto, and I like
Canada very much. Toronto has become a beautiful city.

What are the principal questions agitating you just
now ?

The only subject in any sense of a burning character is the
Jesuit question, which is merely local, and don't amount to
anything serious.

What of Imperial Federation ?

We are going ahead splendidly in that direction.

Thus for a few minutes the conversation ran on, until finally
Mr. Taylor rose, and, with an exchange of courtesies,
departed.

From the Northern Daily TeUgraph {Free Trade), August 17 th, 1S89.
"FORTY YEARS IN TORONTO."

Last night, Mr. C. C. Taylor, of her Majesty's Customs,
Toronto, author of " Toronto ' Called Back,' " delivered an
address in the Exchange Lecture Hall, Blackburn, on "Forty
Years in Toronto ; its wonderful growth and progress." Coun-
cillor Oregson presided. Amongst those present were Messrs.
J. Quail and W. H. Burnett, and Mrs. Lewis. Mr. Taylor, after
a passing reference to the orderliness and sobriety of Blackburn,
went on to refer to a " very able article " which had appeared
in the Northern Daily Telegraph, which ' reminded him of a
countryman of his, who, meeting an acquaintance, said, " When

BLACKBURN.

I saw you first, I thought it was yourself ; but when you came
nearer I thought it was your brother ; but by this and by that,
when I see you close, you are neither of you." (Laughter).
He had come into personal contact with Daniel O'Connell, Isaac
Butt, Smith O'Brien, and later, with William O'Brien, but he
never knew he was a Home Ruler until he came to Blackburn.
He, however, thought that if the circumstances of the two
countries — Ireland and Canada — were precisely alike, and
Roman Catholics and Protestants were on good terms with
each other, and all were equally loyal to the Imperial Govern-
ment, a modified form of Home Rule — always guarding against
any attempt at separation — mi»;ht safely be granted to Ireland,
her local affairs to be legislated upon by bodies similar to the
Provincial Governments of Canada. (Hear, hear.) Mr. Taylor
proceeded to describe his journey forty years ago to Toronto,
the growth of the population of that town from 20,000 to
200,000, and the development of the city until it attained the
title of the " Queen City of the West." Incidentally he referred
to the wresting of Canada from the French, remarking that at
this moment no class or nationality were more loyal to Great
Britain than the French population of the Dominion. In no
country in the world was there a better system of national
education than in Canada, where splendidly equipped schools
were open equally to rich and poor alike without money or
price (Applause.) A mass of statistics were quoted to prove
that Canada — and particularly Toronto — had progressed at a
faster rate than the United States or its chief cities. During a
forty years' observation of the tariffs of Great Britain, Canada,
and the United States, he had seen Great Britain become the
workshop of the world, commanding an export trade with all
nations under a fiee policy. Up to a certain point that had
been a wonderful succes>*, but this point was reached when the
United States and other countries, in order to build up their
own manufactures, imposed a prohibitory tariff excluding
English goods, and at tha same time took advantage of
England's liberality to send their goods to England entirely
free. Up to 1878 the Canadian tariff* was used for revenue
purposes oidy, but when an ad valorem duty of 20 per cent,
was imposed for the protection of incipient manufactures, the
improvement was soon perceptible in the impulse given to
manufactures, and the falling-oft* of imports from the United
States, against which the protective principle was mainly
directe<l. A small disloyal party were endeavoring to bring
about a commtTcial union with the States, which involved the

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

exclusion of British goods ; but Canada would spend her blood
and treasure to maintain inviolate the bonds which bound her
to the Mother Country. (Applause.) As showing the importance
of the Canadian trade to England, he had prepared a statement
showing the value of goods taken by Toronto alone from
Lancashire and Yorkshire in one year. Of manufactured iron
they imported from these counties $591,879 worth, or $5 worth
per head of the city's population ; of cotton goods, $981,410, or
a guinea a head ; of carpets, $345,369, or $2 per head ; of
woollens, $2,188,730, or $12 per head -altogether $4,107,388, or
£4 10s. for every man, woman, and child in Toronto. The
lecturer also referred to the progress of the temperance senti'-
juent in Canada, and the probability that in .several of the
provinces prohibitory acts would be passed. (Applause ) The
Chairman remarked that it was apparent new countries had an
advantage over old ones like England, in being able to move
more rapidly. But even Canada would get rid of a clog on her
.progress if she entirely abolished drink in the Dominion. (Hear,
hear.) Mr. W. H. Burnett proposed a vote of thanks to the
lecturer, and in doing so, remarked that he did not think this
country was over-populated, and he was in favor of Free
Trade, if other nations could be induced to adopt it. Mr. J.
Quail, in seconding it, said that Canada undoubtedly had a
future before it, but whether that future would be clouded by
what he considered to be the fatal policy to which its statesmen
had committed themselves in the matter of tariffs, or not, it
was not for him to say. But he would say that, be its fiscal
policy what it might, a young country with the millions of
untrodden acres and the small population of Canada, must
necessarily increase in wealth and prosperity much more
rapidly than an old country like Great Britain, wheie there
was a certain amount of congestion in the centres of population.
He did not believe England was over-populated, but it was
suffering, in the first place, from our vicious land system, land
also from the liquor traffic. (Hear, hear.) There were other
questions relating to labor and trade which also prevented us
from progres.sing as we ought to do. Still, notwithstanding
foreign tariffs ami the fact that even Canada had put up a
tariff wall against the Mother Country — not a particularly
generous thing to do — the States and Canada even now took
our woollens and cottons and irons, which he maintained was a
iribute to the success of Free Trade. (Hear, hear.) He would
like to have asked whether the greater development of Canada
thaivthe States, while the latter had the high tariff, did not tell

BLACKBURN.

in favor of a low tariff, and consequently towards Free Trade ?
(Hear, hear.) Was not the prosperity of Canada, too, largely
due to the Federation of the provinces twenty-two years ago, and
the opening of the Canadian Pacific Railroad ? (Mr. Taylor: Part-
ly.) He denied that the lecturer's statistics proved that the
development of Canada was due to the tariff sy.stem, and asked
if the workers got a fair share of the wealth that was produced
or whether only capitalists derived benefit from the fertility of
the country ? The resolution having been carried, Mr. Taylor
replied briefly that the effect of Free Irade would be to flood
Canada with Yankee goods and ruin the trade of the Dominion.
He declined, however, to say that the protective policy was
solely responsible for the prosperity of the country. • There was
a project on foot for an Imperial Federation of all the Colonies.
If England would only give Canada a little advantage in the
way of discriminating against foreign countries, they would
be happy to meet them. Mr. Quaii : What can you want
better than free ports ? Mr. Taylor : We want you to exclude
foreigners who will not reciprocate. (Laughter and applause.)
The meeting terminated with a vote of thanks to the Chairman.

From the Evening Exjyress and Standard {Fair Trade),
August 16th, 1889.

THE GROWTH OF THE CITY OF TORONTO AND THE DOMINION.

Last evening in the lecture room of the Exchange Hall, Mr.
C. C. Taylor, of Her Majesty's Customs, Toronto, Canada,
delivered a lecture on " Toronto ' Called Back ' from 1888 to
1847." (Councillor W. Gregson occupied the chair, and briefly
introduced Mr. Taylor to the meeting. The lecturer, after a
few preliminary remarks, said that next to Toronto, he had not
seen a more orderly place than Blackburn. The absence of
drunkenness struck him very forcibly. Speaking on the politics
of the home country, and compaiing them with those of Canada,
he said that he thought a modiHed form of Home Rule could
be safely granted, always guarding against any attempts at
separation. Home local affairs should be legislated upon as the
Provincial Government and Legislature did in Canada. As he
was in an atmosphere saturated with Free Trade principles
and ideas, he might find himself impregnated with the same if
he remained in Lancashire, and yet he did not see why, in the
land where British fair-play is proverbial, there should exist
any feeling of opposition for anything " fair," even if it should
be " Fair 'Trade," and he certainly thought it ought at least to

TORONTO " CALLED BACK " AND EMIGKATION.

be an open question, as it was with his countrymen. In his
frequent visits to England, he found very few persons who had
not some interest or connection with Canada either socially,
commercially, or personally. He had found that there existed
a strong bond of sympathy between England and her most
loyal colony. He might mentii m, before describing the Dominion
of Canada and his adopted city, Toronto, that he did not r»'pre-
sent any Government party or emigration agency, but was
alone responsible for any statement he might make. His object
was chiefly to inform those who had not yet taken any interest
in the progress and prosperity of Canada, and especially in the
premier province of Ontario and the city of Toronto, as a field
for manuiiacturers and capitalists, leaving the question of agri-
culture to those who were so extensively circulating informa-
tion as to the wonderful capabilities of the Dominion to supply
Great Britain with all the productions necessary for her
millions of inhabitants. He would like to correct a very
erroneous impression that prevailed amonn;st many in this
country, that the United States mean America, and America
the United States. A short time ago a gentleman who visited
Toronto, representing the Railway Mission, on his return to
England, kindly sent him a copy of the paper called the Rail-
ivay Signal, and also a calendar for 1889, giving railway
statistics in which the miles of railway in " America " weie
given, and also the number of miles in " Canada," as if Canada
was not in America at all, and their Yankee friends owned and
monopolized the title of Americany. They, as British Americans,
owning the largest share of the continent, begged to enter a
protest against these assumptions, and hoped tlieir English
friends would bear the fact in mind. A simple statement of
facts and figures was all he should give, leaving them to judge
as to whether the prosperity of Canada and Toronto was attri-
butable to their commercial policy or not. It was no small
matter of encouragement that Canada was at present enjoying
the presence of a Lancashire nobleman, who in a dignified and
popular manner represents Her Majesty the Queen. The Right
Hon. Lord Stanley of Preston proved already to be a fit
successor to the list of illustrious men, who since 1847, he had
seen preside over the country's destiny, from Lord Elgin,
followed by Lords Monk, Lisgar, Dutterin, Lome, and Lans-
downe. His first impression of Toronto corresponded with
the idea formed from a view given in the London Illustrated
News. The wonder appeared to be that a small dull place
should be dignified with the title of a city. To a person leaving

BLACKBURN.

Dublin and Liverpool, as he did in 1847, it seemed as if all the
life and bustle of a business city had died out, and a dull,
monotonous backwoods sort of a life had taken its place. The
population was then a little over 20,000, a small wholesale
business was done, and a little retail trade, chiefly on the credit
system. There were no manufactures worth speaking of. The
markets were supplied by farmers, who brought all their
produce in their own waggons, and in the spring and fall every-
thing was dreadfully flat, the state of the roads preventing
travelling. The time of sleighing was the most lively. The
town presented no features of attraction, there being an absence
of all public buildings of any architectural pretensions. The
churches were few and small, and only two could boast of
having organs. There was no theatre or music hall, so that
amusements were very scarce, and social enjoyments were con-
fined to the home circle. There were no rich people, as none
had inherited wealth, which had all to be made by industry
and perseverance. A railway had not been thought of. Such
was Toronto forty years ago, more isolated than is Regina, in
Assiniboia or Calgary, at the foot of the Rocky Mountains
to-day, places at that time almost inaccessible and as little
known in Toronto as Russian America, beyond the fact that
they knew the Hudson's Bay Company had trading ports where
they exchanged goods with the Indians for furs. Passing over
forty years, if they left England in this year of 1889, on business
or pleasure, they might journey for over 3,000 miles across the
great Dominion without changing their luxurious car or getting
out for a meal, the best hotels affording no greater luxury than
they might enjoy en route ; while from the observation car the
glories and beauties of the great country move within their reach.
There were no hardships to endure, no difficulties to overcome,and
nodangers or annoyances whatever. Comparisons were sometimes
made between Montreal and Toronto. While the former can
claim a larger population, or more venerable history in point of
age, a larger shipping trade on account of its situation, most
English visitors give the preference to Toronto as being more
like home, being truly British in the true sense of the word.
Proceeding westward over one hundred and eighty miles on
Lake Ontario, the tourist enters Toronto by its beautiful bay,
separated from the lake by an island, which is one of the most
frequented pleasure resorts, there b»^ing seveial fine hotels, an
English church, and several hundred private villas erected on
it. The streets of the city itself are two hundred and thirty-
five miles in length, including asphalt, stone, cedar blocks, and

ir'

;

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

LAacadam. They are lighted with gas and electric light.
Numbers of churches of all denominations have been erected,
and groups of fine public buildings. The population in 1888
was estimated at 180,000. The lecture was illustrated by means
of maps and numerous other illustrations. At the close,
Mr. W. H. Burnett, editor of this journal, proposed a vote of
thanks to the lecturer. In regard to the economic questions
mooted, he would express no opinion, except that it was
undoubtedly true that Free Trade universally carried out would
be best for the people. He had no sympathy with those
theories of wealth which set little store upon the human
creature. A healthy industrious thrifty man in no rightly
organized society could possibly be out of place, and he had
no sympathy with the terrible anxiety that was manifested to
get rid of what we called our " surplus population," as every
citizen under a properly constituted economic sy.stem should be
a wealth producer, and the country therefore that had the most
people should be the wealthiest and the most prosperous. The
vote of thanks was seconded by Mr. Jesse Quail, editor of the
Daily Telegraph, who controverted some of the positions taken
up by the lecturer, and contrasted the tariffs of Canada and
those of the United States. Was it not owing, he asked, to the
fact that the Catadian tariff was lower than that of the States
that Canada was more pro=:perous than the Great Republic ? —
The lecturer briefly replied, and after a vote of thanks to the
chairman, the meeting concluded.

Editorial Notices.

Mr. C. C. Taylor, of Her Majesty's Customs, Toronto, and
author of a work previously mentioned in these columns,
Toronto " Called Back," last night addressed an audience in the
Lecture Room of the Exchange Hall, Blackburn, on Canadian
questions. Our brief report deals with but one aspect of the
lecture. Mr. Taylor, as we have previously intimated in these
columns, is an out-spoken Canadian, who has picked up his
opinions in the best of all schools, experience, the tutor in
which deals with nothing but facts, and makes the most abject
tomfoolery of the theories of the mere faddists, who try to
make facts square with their cranks, rather than seek to
reduce their cranks by the incontrovertible logic of facts. In
religious conviction Mr. Taylor is a Methodist, in social matters
a Prohibitionist teetotaller, so our readers 'will learn from this
how singularly Canadian politics in the individual character

BLACKBURN.

contrasts with our own. Mr. Taylor's book from end to end is
cram-full of the most valuable information, given in a chatty
and discursive way which is very pleasing, and his lecture was
like his book, dealing with hard facts, but illumining them with
quick intelligence and a poetic imagination, which made them
glow with light and interest.

The lecturer in the course of his remarks dealt with many
economic and other problems of the first interest to publicists —
the population problem, the teetotal problem, the Fair Trade
problem, and the educational problem. Most interesting to
ourselves wore his remarks on the question of Fair and Free
Trade. Whilst not claiming for Protection based upon Reci-
procity all the remarkable progress in Canada during recent
years, he nevertheless proved to a demonstration, that it had
provided employment for the people and supplied a home
market for their own productions — a market formerly inun-
dated by the manufactures of the United States ; and Canada
had no notion of going back again to Free Trade, after having
tasted the sweets of an industry protected against unfair alien
competition. Quoth Mr. Taylor, "The immediate result of a
reduction in the tariff would be to create a panic all over the
country. Manufacturers would withdraw their capital, fac-
tories would be closed, thousands and tens of thousands would
be thrown out of employment, houses would be vacant, real
estate would collapse, the market for agricultural produce
would be curtailed, and as the United States have a surplus for
exportation, that market would not absorb what at present is
required at home. Canada would again be flooded with
American manufactures, and the money now expended at home
would go to a foreign country, where our people would be com-
pelled to follow it ; and Canada would be thrown back in the
march of progress, in which she is now making such rapid
strides."

That is a pretty formidable impeachment of one-sided Free
Trade, not from one who has picked up his knowledge balanc-
ing upon a tripod in a back office, and cogitating in an egotistic
isolation amongst his books far from the madding crowd, but
from one occupied in the very centre of trade, where the trade
streams of the far west meet — as meet also the great waters of
their mighty rivers — at the receipt of custom in the Dominion
Custom House in the growing, pushing, restless, young, aggres-
sive city of Toronto, the Canadian lake capital. It seems very
strange that these young communities should be sending over
to England missionaries of light and leading, destined in the

«5

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

long run to teach us that the true commercial gospel is that of
self-interest — honestly looking after ourselves — and that high-
falutin moral rot is not the kind of thing upon which they run
their factories and their workshops. "Do unto others," says Mr.
Taylor, " as they do to you " — and that seems to us like practical
common sense, though it does not savor of the evangelic
counsels. By-and-by England, like Canada and her children
at the Cape and in Australia, will begin to consider that her
chief duty is to look after her own interests and her own
people, and not to provide an open market for all the world, in
which the foreigner takes the bread out of the mouths of her
own workers.

The Canadians are the most loyal of the colonial subjects of
the British Crown, and Mr. Taylor made this abundantly clear
in his address. This is a verse from a poem which he quoted
in his remarks : —

" Dear Britain ! Great Britain, ever glorious nation !

Whose strong arm, in peace, nigh engirdles the earth ;
Canadians turn yet — aye, in proud exultation,

To the Mother of Nations who gave to them birth.
Oh, where be the hearts that, in traitorous illusion.

Would barter for pottage a birthright so fair ?
On such be the brand of dark shame and confusion,

And the stew of sedition his crime-haunted lair.
Heaven ! make his hope but as the ropes of sand.

And One and Indivisible — this land."

Mr. Councillor Gregson.

Mr. Councillor Gregson, who kindly acted as chairman, is a
pronounced Free Trader, and although both Conservatives and
Radicals are united on the question of Free Trade, Mr. Greg-
son is an out-and-out Radical, a Liberal of the Liberals. As
one of the most remarkable events in his life transpired while I
was residing in Bury, in 1857, I mention it to show the charac-
ter of the man, for determination and perseverance, as well as
zeal for his party.

In that year. Parliament having been prorogued, Mr.
Frederick Peel, now Sir Frederick, .son of the great Prime Minis-
ter (who was born in Bury, and whose birth-place I always
passed on my way home, and had a monument to his memory
always in sight when there), was sent by the town to support
the /cause of the Government. The opposition party brought

BLACKBURN.

out as their candidate, Mr. R. N. Phillips, of the great firm of
J. & N. Phillips, of Manchester, entirely without his consent, and
in opposition to his wishes. Mr. Gregson undertook to conduct
the whole canvass and to have Mr. Phillips returned to Parlia-
ment, nolens volena. Meetings were held, numbering as many as
6,000 people, and were addressed at great length by Mr. Greg-
son. At some of these great disturbances took place. When
the nomination took place Mr. Peel was there, but Mr. Phillips
did not appear.

In addressing the crowd, Mr. Peel ridiculed the absence of
his opponent, but Mr. Gregson nonplussed hitn by jumping up
and audaciously declaring, " If Mr. Phillips won't have the seat
I will." This so tickled the crowd that they would not hear
another word from Mr. Peel, and Mrs. Peel waved her handker-
chief from an adjacent window in vain.

Mr. Phillips was duly elected in spite of himself, and through
the effijrts of Mr. Gregson, and at the close of the poll at
four o'clock in the afternoon, Mr. Wrigley, paper manufacturer,
took his own carriage to fetch him into the borough, which he
had 80 completely avoided during the contest.

Ten thousand people welcomed him with hurrahs ; and this
was how he first became member for Bury. I remember well
the following Sunday, when he attended the Unitarian Chapel,
and as he entered, the organ striking up, " See the conquering
hero comes."

Blackburn possesses a large skating rink, but as ice is not a
necessary factor, it is used all the year round. Being introduced
to the manager, through taking a letter from his son, who holds
a responsible position in this city, in the most extensive estab-
lishment of its kind in the Dominion, I received great attention,
and was invited to the rink. Here was a band playing during
the evening, and hundreds of young people, numbers of whom
had exchanged the clogs and plaid shawls for neat boots and
fashionable dresses, were in full swing performing their
gyrations on skates, evidently enjoying the recreation to their
hearts' content.

Temperance refreshments were provided, no smoking allowed,
and the strictest order maintained.

TORONTO "CALLED HA(^K " AND EMIGRATION.

Bury.

Bury Guardian, Auyust Qph, 1889.
A CANADIAN IN BURY.

La.st week we gave tlie account of an interview with Mr.
Conyngham Crawford Taylor, of Her Majesty's Customs,
Toronto, on the subject of " Emigration and the rapid growth
and wealth of Canada." Mr. Taylor, it appears, is during his
sojourn in the Mother Country doing what he can to enlighten
the people in different districts on the character of Canadian
cities, and the more effective way of doing this has been by
delivering lectures. A few nights ago he delivered an address
at the Exchange Lecture Hall, Blackburn, the subject being
" Forty Years in Toronto."

In a conversation which we had with Mr. Taylor the other
day, we gathered that a slight mistake had been made with
reference to his remarks on the poverty existing in England.
What he intended to convey was this : that he was surpri.sed to
.see hundreds of boys and girls running about the streets with-
out any appearance of having a certain means of livelihood,
except that they thrust match-boxes into one's face at every
turn. Again, he could not help expressing his surprise at seeing
numbers of able-bodied men in the streets of Manchester and
Liverpool selling things — men who ought to dig or work at
some maimal employment. With reference to Free Trade and
Protection, he was of opinion that these sul)jects were, in
Canada, out of the range of politics altogether, because both
parties were in favor of the present system of tariffs, or, if any
change, only a modified .system. We cannot conclude without
saying a word in eulogj' of Mr. Taylor's book " Toronto ' Called
Back.' " Not only does the writer deal with a mass of statistics
to prove the rapid growth of the Canadian Dominion, but he
furnishes in an interesting and lucid manner a contemporary
history of the chief events in Great Britain and Ireland and
also America, not the least entertaining portions being the
account of the O'Connell movement in Irelafid, and the Queen's
Jubilee.

S H«*W-t"r'»B

WIOAN.

Wigan.

After Blackburn I decided to visit Wi<»an, for several reasons.
The first, that there are combined the two great industries of
cotton and iron, and having, at the request of Mr, Folkard, the
librarian of the Public Library, furnished him with all the
reports on mines and minerals from the Geological Department
at Ottawa, and the Department of Agriculture at Toronto, I
wished to add to these my personal knowledge of our resources,
illustrated by geological maps with which I was provided. My
former acquaintance with the town, by resi<ling at St. Helen'.s
and Bury, was another inducement; knowing also the great
industries of St. Helen's in plate glass, chemical and smelting
works, I knew that it was quite possible that the attention of
some of these manufacturers might in this wa}' be turned to
Toronto. On visiting the Public Library, a splendid institution,
containing an immense number of most valuable books of
reference, I found that, before receiving " Toronto ' Called
Back,' " the only information they had about our city was a
short article written by Dr. Daniel Wilson, several years ago,
in the British Encyclopaedia. lender these circumstances, I
ventured to advertise for a lecture, at which Mr. Alderman
Ackerley, Deputy Mayor, kindly consented to preside.

From the Wigaa Examiner {Liberal Unionist), Augnst 24th, 1889,

Those who did not attend the lecture on " Toronto ' Called
Back,'" by Mr. Conyngham Crawford Taylor, delivered in the
Public Hall, Wigan, on Monday evening, ^>y their absence missed
a great deal that was both interesting and instructive. A sur-
prising amount of ignorance prevails in this country, even
among educated people, as to the capabilities and resources of
our own colonies, and it is, therefore, refreshing to have the
opportunity of meeting with a gentleman so well qualified as
Mr. Taylor is to enlighten us as to the position and prospects
of our greatest colony — the Dominion of Canada. Mr. Taylor
is connected with the Canadian Customs at Toronto, and speaks
from a forty years' knowledge and personal experience of the
country. He is at present over here on a holiday visit, and
from purely disinterested motives, for he represents neither a

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Government party nor an emigration agency, is seizing the
occasion to interest the people of the Old Country in the
Province of Ontario and the city of Toronto as a field of emi-
gration for manufacturers and capitalists. As to the aspect of
the country agriculturally, he does not trouble himself beyond a
passing allusion, as ample information on that part of the sub-
ject has been spread far and wide by the ('olonial authorities.
His claim to speak upon the matter is undoubted. As the
author of "Toronto 'Called Back ' from 1888 to 1S47, and the
Queen's Jubilee," a work which has run through several editions,
and which has been distributed pretty freely in this country by
the Toronto City Council he has vindicated his right to speak
authoritatively. At any rate, that work has won for Mr. Tay-
lor, in his adopted countrj', a high reputation as a pleasing
writer and a keen and intelligent observer of passing events.
Graphically does he narrate the marvellous progress and pros-
perity of Toronto during the past forty years. In that period
the population has grown from 20,000 to upwards of 180,000,
having, in fact, doubled itself in the last eight years, while ihe
trade and commerce of the city has advanced by leaps and
bounds. Buildings of architectural pretensions have sprung up
in all directions, and institutions of public utility, embracing
every social and educational want, have been founded- by the
public spirit, enterprise, and liberality of its inhabitants. There
is unquestionably a grand future before Toronto. It is already
a great railway centre, and also possesses an exceptionally
ad\ antageous position as a centre of inland water communica-
tion. To thob? who have never actually travelled on the
Canadian lakes it is, Mr. Taylor tells us, difficult to convey a
correct idea of the vastness of these inland seas. Even the
figures are not so illustrative of the immense extent as simply
to state, what has often been done before, that Lake Superior
would contain the whole of England. This being the upper in
the great chain of lakes, and Ontario the lowest, whether for
business or pleasuie, the traveller can take passage on a splendid
steamer and make a trip v>estward tor a thousand miles on
fresh water, while he can go as far east as the Atlantic Ocean.
As a central point for manufacturers, trade, literature, and
tine arts, Toronto may be said to have few, if any, equals in the
Dominion ; and just as the prairies of the west, and the older
agricultural districts, increase in wealth and population, .so will
Toronto and the other towns and cities of Canada flourish in a
corresponding degree. Though the greater portion of Mr.
Taylor's book deals principally with the city of Toronto, the

WIGAN.

author never misses an opportunity to impress his reader with
the grandeur of Canada as a whole. Commencing at the
Atlantic sea-board, Prince Edward Island is said to be the
garden of Paradise; there is Newfoundland, as large as Den-
mark and Hanover; Nova Scotia, as Lirge as Switzerland ;
New Brunswick, as large as Holland and Belgium; Quebec
is as large as France, Ontario as large as Prussia; while in the
West, British Columbia forms a splendid province on the Pacific
Coast; while between Cid Canada and the Rocky Mountains,
there is room for eight provinces as large as Manitoba. Lake
Superior has an area of 20,000 square miles, being the largest
fresh- water lake in the world. Lake Huron contains 16,000
square miles with .SO.OOO islands, Lake Ontario, the lowest
of the range, on whose shore stands the metropolis of that great
province, the premier province of the Dominion, is 180 miles
long and 40 miles wide. Lake Erie has a circumference of 700
miles, and discharges the waters of the Upper Lakes into the
Niagara river over the Falls, it is calculated at the rate of
700,000 tons every minute. The total area of the lake^i is said
to be 100,000 square miles. " The Dominion," he says, "sits
astride the civilized world. Its territories lie in the very
track of one of the great lines of commerce of the future. On
one side it commands the Pacific, on the other the Atlantic. It
holds out one hand to the civilized West, and the other to the
swarming and non-awakened East. The short way from China
to Europe lies through Canadian territory, and thanks to Cana-
dian enterprise, it is now possible to travel from England to
Australia without once leaving the shelter of the British flag.
In 1867 the provinces were isolated states, now they are a
nation with enormous resources, a vast commerce, a well-
organized military establishment, a splendid system of railway
and water communication, and every quality, except population,
which is required for a great and powerful state. Canadian
enterprise and ambition have risen by leaps and bounds since
the opening up of the magnificent territories of the North- West.
For many years to come Canada need not fear to receive the
influx from the Old World, or even from the more thickly settled
portions of the New ; she still retains her supremacy in the
fisheries and forests. The Canadian Pacific Railway has opened
up a wheat field millions of acres in extent, and at a bound the
Dominion' has become one of the granaries of Europe. The
ranching regions will soon come to rival Texas or Queensland
in cattle. Nor are the resources of the West limited to agricul-
ture and pasture. Gold and almost every other metal are found

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

in abundance, and an inexhaustible supply of coal. With all
these advantages, it will be impossible to stay the progress of
this great and glorious country." Much of the industrial
prosperity of the country Mr. Taylor attributes to the protective
policy which was inaugurated in 1878, under which the trt^de
and manufactures of the Dominion have flourished as they
never did before. Mr. Taylor, however, is no bigoted Protec-
tionist. He does not go the length of sa^'ing that the same
fiscal policy would produce equally satisfactory results for Eng-
land; but what he does say is, that as regards Canada, Protection
ha.s been the making of the country. Mr. Taylor's book is to
be found on the shelves of the Reference Department of the
Free Library, and will repay perusal. The stereotypt^d method
of book -making has not been followed in this case. The author
has mapped out a path for himself, and displays a good deal of
originality in his treatment of the various matters he touches
upon. The style is gossipy, and as he handles many subjects
that more ambitious authors would think beneath their notice,
he presents to our view a picture of the country which, for
vividness, could scarcely be surpassed. One thing that strikes
the reader in running through its pages is the intense loyalty
existing throughout the Dominion towards Her Majesty the
Queen and the people of the Old Country, a fact which ought
to make us proud that we have so worthy a stock to represent
us and to maintain the honor and dignity of the British flag in
that part of the world.

LECTURE AT WIG AN.

On Monday night Mr. C. C. Taylor, of Her Majesty's Customs,
Toronto, Canada, delivered a lecture in the Public Hall, Wigan,
on " Toronto ' Called Back,' from 1888 to 1847." Mr. Alderman
Ackerley, Deputy Mayor, presided, and there were present on
the platform Councillors Hilton and Percy.

The Chairman, in opening the meeting, said the question of
Canada and our colonies was a most important one, and he
understood they would hear from a gentleman who had had a
large experience of colonial life what that life was like. He
understood he was desirous of bringing before them the great
advantages they would have in going out to Canada, but he
(the chairman) must tell him frankly he_ thought the present
time was not one in which he was likely to get many recruits,
because he believed that probably for the next two or three
years we, in Lancashire, would have plenty of work to employ
those who were willing to work. That could not always con-

WIGAN.

tinue, and he could not disguise from himself that in this old
country we were getting thick on the ground. If that was the
case, it was only wise and prudent to look a little further ahead,
and they would do well to consider what would happen in a few
years when their children were grown up. He was afraid
many of them would have considerable difficulty in placing
their sons and daughters in such positions as they would wish
them to have in this country, and therefore they must look
abroad. In looking abroad, lie was ([uite satisfied they could
not look at any place that was likely to offer as good a home
to Englishmen as Canada. They could hanily realize the
millions of acres in Canada only waiting to be fertilized. They
heard a great deal of land hunger, and no doubt land was diffi-
cult to get here, but they had only to cross the sea to Canada
and thf^y could get a free grant, and be heartily received and
welcomed by honest and kind Englishmen, who would only be
too proud to help them to make homes for themselves. That
was a very fine thing to think of, and when they had families
growing up they should bear that in mind. Above all things,
let him say that too much importance was placed upon mere
book learning. In days gone by book learning was something
out of the common, but it was no longer so. Any of them who
had a sharp active lad were proud of the education he received,
but now there were n)any sharp active lads of education, and
they should not think there was anything wrong or derogatory
in a ma i getting his living by the sweat of his brow. He
thought, supposing the two men were equal, more of the man
who could get his living by the labor of his hands, and as a
skilled artizan, than he did of a man who was brought up to
get his living as a clerk. If they had a sharp active lad,
encourage him to go abroad and make a home for himself across
the sea.

The lecturer, in his preliminary remarks, .said the Wigan
Free Library was a credit to the town. He was gratifiied to
learn from their gentlemanly and courteous Librarian, that ^he
Reference Library alone contained about 25,000 volumes,
which included a large number of very rare and valuable
books. The new catalogue was a model of neatness and
arrangement and ready reference, and as he had had the
pleasure of sending them a variety of reports from their Geologi-
cal Survey in Ottawa, through the direction of Professor Selwyn
and also from the Ontario Government, he might say it would
always give him great pleasure to add further contributions
which might be useful to readers th this mining and manufac-

)] j

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

turing district. Speaking on the politics of the home country,
and comparing them with those of Canada, he thought a
modified form of Home Rule could safely be granted, always
guarding against any attempts at separation. Home local
affairs should be legislated upon as the Provincial Government
and Legislature did in Canada. As he was in an atmosphere
saturated with Free Trade principles and ideas, he might find
himself imperceptibly impregnated with the same if he remained
in Lancashire, and yet he did not see why, in the land where
British fair-play is proverbial, there should exist any feeling of
opposition for anything " fair," even if it should be " Fair
Trade," and he certainly thought it ought at least to be an open
question, as it was with his countrymen. In his frequent
visits to England, he had found very few persons who had not
some interest or connection with Canada, either socially, com-
mercially, or personally. He had found that there existed a
strong bond of sympathy between England and her most loyal
colony. He might mention, before describing the Dominion of
Canada and his adopted city, Toronto, that he did not represent
any government party, or emigration agency, but was alone
responsible for any statement he might make. His object was
chiefly to inform those who had not yet taken any interest in
the progress and prosperity of Canada, and especially in the
premier province of Ontario, and the city of Toronto, as a field
for manufacturers and capitalists, leaving the question of agri-
culture to those who were so extensively circulating information
as to the wonderful capabilities of the Dominion to supply
Great Britain with all the productions necessary for her
millions of inhabitants. He would like to correct a very
erroneous impression that prevailed amongst many in this
conntry, that the United States mean America, and America the
United States. A short time ago, a gentleman who visited
Toronto, representing the Railway Mission, on his return to
England kindly sent him a copy of the paper called the Railivay
Sigval, and also a calendar for 1889, giving railway statistics,
in which the miles of railvay in "America" were given, and
also the number of miles in "Canada," as if Canada was
not in America at all, and their Yankee friends owned and
monopolized the title of Americans. They, as British Americans,
owning the largest share of the continent, beggfd to enter a
protest against these assumptions, and hoped their English
friend^ would bear the fact in mind. A simple statement of
facts and figures was all he should give, leaving them to judge
as to whether the prosperity of Canada and Toronto was

WIOAN.

attributable to their commercial policy or not. It was no small
matter of encouragement that Canada was at present enjoying
the presence of a Lancashire nobleman, who in a dignified and
popular m%nner represents Her Majesty the Queen. The Right
Hon. Lord Stanley of Preston proved already to be a tit suc-
cessor to the list of illustrious men whom, since IS*?, he had seen
preside over the country's destiny, from Lord Elgin, followed
bv Lords Monk, Lisgar, Dufferin, Lome, and Lansdowne. His
first impression of Toronto corresponded with the idea formed
from a view given in the London Illustrated News.
The wonder appeared to be that a small dull place should be
dignified with the title of a city. To a person leaving Dublin
and Liverpool, as he did in 1847, it seemed as if all the life and
bustle of a business city had died out, and a dull, monotonous
backwoods sort of life had taken its place. The population
was then a little over 20,000, a small wholesale busines.s was
done, and a little retail trade, chiefly on the credit system.
There were no manufactures worth speaking of. The markets
were supplied by farmers, who brought all their produce in
their own waggons, and in the spring and fall everything was
dreadfully flat, the state of the roads preventing travelling.
The time of sleighin: was the mo><t lively. The town pre-
sented no features of attraction, there being an absence of all
public buildingfs of any architectural pretensions. The churches
were few and small, and only two could boast of having
organs. There was no theatre or music hall, so that amuse-
ments were very scarce, and social enjoyments were confined to
the home circle. There were no rich people, as none had
inherited wealth, which had all to be made by industrj' and
perseverance. A railway had not been thought of. Such was
Toronto for'-y years ago, more isolated than is Regina, in
Assiniboia or Calgary, at the foot of the Rocky Mountains,
to-daj', places at that time almost inaccessible and as little
known in Toronto as Russian America, beyond the fact that
they knew the Hudson's Bay Company hud trading ports
where they exchanged goods with the Indians for furs. Pas.sing
over forty years, if they left England in the year of 1889, on
business or pleasure, they might journey for over 3,000 miles
across the great Dominion without changing their luxurious
car or getting out for a meal, the best hotels attording no
greater luxury than they might enjoy en route, while from the
observation car the glories and beauties of the great country
lie within their reach. There were no hardships to endure, no
difficulties to overcome, and no dangers or annoyances what-

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

ever. Comparisons were sometimes made between Montreal
and Toronto. While the former can claim a larger population,
or more venerable history in point of age, a larger shipping
trade on account of its situation, most English visitors give the
preference to Toronto, as being more like home, being truly
British in the true sense of the word. Proceeding westward
over one hundred and eighty miles of Lake Ontario, the
tourist enters Toronto by its beautiful bay, separated from the
lake by an island, which is one of the most frequented pleasure
resorts, there being several fine hotels, an English church, and
several hundred private villas erected on it. The streets of
the city itself are two hundred and thirty-five miles in length,
including asphalt, stone, cedar blocks, and macadam. They
are lighted with gas and electric light. Numbers of churches
of all denominations have been erected, and groups of tine
public buildings. The population in 1888 was estimated at
180,000. The lecture was illustrated by means of maps and
numerous other illustrations.

The lecturer concluded with a brilliant description of the
future of Toronto from the concluding chapter of " Toronto
'Called Back,'" of which we quote as follows: — " In addition to
what has already been said in reference to the population, it is
safe to say that many now living will see Toronto with half a
million of inhabitants.

"The advantages already described as to her position as a
central point for manufacturers, trade, literature and tine arts,
her means of access to so many pleasure resorts, her beautiful
parks and squares, shaded side-walks, healthful climate, and her
educational advantages, cannot fail to attract large numbers of
wealthy retired families to reside and capitalists to invest in
oar city.

" ' See Naples, and die !' says an Italian proverb, just as though
after that there is nothing else worth living for. It may yet
become a proverb to say what is already worth saying, ' See
Toronto, and live in it' "

Mr. Percy, in proposing a vote of thanks to the lecturer, said
they were much indebted to him for the valuable information
put at their disposal with regard to the wonderful resources of
the Dominion of Canada, and the enterprising city of Toronto.
There were few subjects of greater interest to the English people
than the capabilities of the colonies for providing a livelihood for
our surplus population. It was, indeed, true that at the present
time there was work of one kind or another for every man and
woman in England able and willing to work, but even now the

if.

WIGAN.

competition in all trades and professions was so great that
thousands of people in this country who might make a position
for themselves elsewhere were struggling at home for oppor-
tunities which never came. His great anxiety with regard to
the fiiture of England was that the population would inevitably
very largely increase, and it was almost certain that the means
of employment would not increase in anything like a propor-
tionate degree. It would be well if the rising generation would
turn their attention to the West, and instead of overcrowding
the soil of England and passing a miserable existence, would
avail themselves of the facilities and opportunities which
colonies like Canada afforded to provide comfortable homes for
millions of our surplus population. (Applause.)

Mr. J. Hilton, in seconding, said the lecture they had listened
to must be of great interest to the people, not only in Wigan
but in any jp&rt of England. The connection between Canada
and England was now so close that there were few families in
this country who had not relatives in Canada.

The motion was heartily passed, and the lecturer, in reply,
said that if any of the citizens of that town paid a visit at any
future time to the city of Toronto, they would be sure of a
hearty welcome. He moved a vote of thanks to the chairman.

Mr. J. M. Ainscough seconded the motion, which was cordially
adopted and acknowledged.

Those present then inspected an interesting series of plans
and maps illustrative of the subject under discussion.

!■

From H. F. Folkard, Esq, Wigan Public Free Library,
September 7th, 1889.

Dear Sir, — I regret I was obliged to miss your very interest-
ing address upon Canada and its industries.

If I had been present I should have been glad to have said a
few words on the subject, and incidentally to have mentioned
how popular your book on Toronto has become amongst us.
The "Encyclopseiiia Britannica" article (written many years ago
by Dr. Driniel Wilson, of Toronto University) was, until we
received your book, the only modern reliable information we
possessed upon Toronto.

Your book has been constilted by all sorts of people, intending
emigrants, chiefly artizans, engineers, and surveyors, and rather
curiously by a good many Roman Catholic priests.

^X^'' V* •!'..;,..

TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

We have a large number of Catholic Irish in Wigan, and I
surmise that the priests are looking up information for them.

Yours truly,

Henry F. Folkard.

A remarkable feature in the management of the splendid
library of Wigan is that a large number of the most popular
standard works are kept in the reading-room, and may- be used
without any restriction or form of tickets. They have not lost
a copy for several years.

In the morning, at my hotel, I was aroused at between six
and seven o'clock with a noise I had not heard for fifteen years.
I soon recognized the peculiar clatter of clogs on the flagged
pavements, and on looking out of the window, beheld a perfect
stream of operatives hurrying to the various mills in that direc-
tion. The girls in their working costume of linen blouses, each
with a plaid wool shawl over her head — these are convenient
and comfortable and easilv removed, no t\me being lost in
getting to their work. The stream continued for nearly half an
hour, and numbered many thousands.

Sheffield.

The route from Manchester to Sheffield, through Derbyshire,
is very romantic, and amongst the hills is seen the reservoir,
formed partly by nature, assisted by art, from which pure water
from the hills is carried into Manchester, a distance of about
twenty-one miles. Under a mountain pierced by a tunnel, over
three miles in length, you are carried into Sheffield.

Surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills in the hollow formed
by them is Sheffield, the great workshop, where are manu-
factured cutlery, steel and plated ware, to supply the whole
civilized world. Wherever you go over this broad earth you
cannot get away from your associations with this wonderful
labcfratory. It is said that in Birmingham a rifle or musket is
turned out every minute, day and night, from year's end to

SIR WILLIAM LENG, K.C.M.G.,
Sheffield "Daily Tcle(/rnpli."

«4

SHEFFIELD.

year's end. In Sheffield, you have productions which are indis-
pensable for human comfort, convenience and enjoyment, as well
as for industrial pursuits. Who has not heard of Mappin &
Webb, and Joseph Rodgers & Son, with hundreds of others
whose goods have made their names as familiar as household
words ? From one of these hills you look down upon volumes
of lurid smoke and flames from its furnaces, as though you
were looking down upon the gigantic centre of some mighty
volcano, and yet Sheffield is surrounded by a most glorious
moorland country. As in Staffordshire, and all the black country,
it is only a step between the blackness of desolation amongst
coal pits and furnaces, and the most luxuriant vegetation and
acres of flower gardens.

A DISTINGUISHED JOURNALIST.

The Sheffield Daily Telegraph is a paper of great influence
and wide circulation, and its proprietor and chief editor. Sir
Wm. Leng, is no ordinary man, and being a true friend of
Canada, is worthy of special consideration.

During rny recent visit to Great Britain, I had the pleasure
of meeting and being interviewed by many newspaper men, and
no matter whether Conservative or Radical, Free Trade or Fair
Trade, as a citizen of Toronto, I invariably met with a most
cordial reception.

When parting with one of the most radical Free Trade editors
in Lancashire, and on the most friendly terms, he told me
before leaving England to be sure and call on Sir Wm. Leng, in
Sheffield, saying that although directly opposed to him in
politics, I would find him on questions of trade to be every-
thing I could desire ; I accordingly made a point of stopping
there on my way to London.

The office of the Evening Telegraph, cannot boast of any
architectural pretensions, such as are found on the corners of
Bay and King, or Yonge and Melinda streets, Toronto.

On entering the premises you are met at the front office by a
polite young lady, who amongst other duties discharges those of
an inquiry office ; on presenting my card, she at once communi-

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIORATION.

cated with Sir William, when passing a splendidly arranged
suite of offices, including the advertising, subscription, and
cashier's departments, I was escorted upstairs to the editor's
studio.

The reception I met with was characteristic of the gentleman
and scholar.

The appearance of Sir William is such as to give the impres-
sion of great benevolence coupled with indomitable energy.
The face beaming with intelligence, the massive brow, the
countenance frr -^k and open, giving the visitor at once a feeling
of ease and welcoine; while the heavy moustache, with a compact
and well-knit frame, combined to give Sir William a military
air, and you at the same time perceive in a marked degree the
suaviter in modo, as well as the idea of the fortiter in re.

The studio is one befitting a man of letters, being a spacious
apartment, containing a large reference library, and every con-
venience adapted to the requirements of an editor.

Although dev( id of the ornamentation and valuable artistic
furnishings in the way of statuary, paintings, etc., of which
the Toronto Evening Telegram offices can boast, and wliich are
well-known through Great Britain, from the pages of " Toronto
' Called Back,' " yet there is every comfort even to luxury.

My first invitation was to Sir William's private residence,
his servant and conveyance being at the door, and behind a
splendid stepping horse, and over a smooth English road, we
were soon away from the din and smoke of this great " hive of
industry " and inside the gates of his elegant mansion, styled
Oaklands, where it stands amongst luxuriant evergreens and
banks of flowers.

An informal dinner, in company with Lady Leng and their
charming daughters, was succeeded by a walk through the
grounds, which are a picture of beauty and refined taste.

Then followed an inspection of pictures in the house, to one
of which especially Sir William drew my attention. This is a
full-length oil portrait of himself in a massive gilt frame. From
the -bottom of this frame he drew out on a spring roller an
address signed by forty-two peers of the realm, thirty-five mem-

SHEFFIELD,

bers of Parliament, and about two hundred "magistrates, which
he informed me had been presented with a purse of six hundred
guineas, in consideration of services rendered the country
during 1866 and 1867, when through his efforts the riots and
bloodshed, caused by the Trades and Labor Union, were elfec-
tually suppressed.

Returning to the office, a shorthand reporter is introduced, and
I am interviewed, with the result given in the Telegraph, which
has an immense circulation, especially in Lancashire and York-
shire. The printing office and composing room were next
inspected, and are a model of a light and airy premises, in blue
and white, with glass roof, altogether very handsome.

Sir William Leng's brother has been elected as Liberal mem-
ber for Dundee, formerly represented by Mr. Jenkins, of Mont-
real, author of " Ginx's Baby," " Lord Bantam," and " The
Blot on the Queen's Head." Mr. Jenkins has joined the ranks
of the Liberal-Unionist party, but is not in Parliatnent.

It was through the influence of Sir William Leng that a
Royal Commission was appointed to inquire into the causes of
the outrages perpetrated against workmen, some of whom were
murdered, and from others their tools had been forcibly taken,
the perpetrators visiting the houses of non-union workmen for
the purpose. These visits were said to be visits from " Mary
Anne," a secret term employed to denote their purpose.

The Commission was presided over by Wilson Overend, Esq..
Q C, an eminent barrister residing in London, but a native of
Sheffield. The result was that the Secretarj^ of the Saw
Grinders' Union, William Broadhead, was arrested, and having
turned Queen's evidence, disclosed the whole plans, and the
guilty parties, on confession of their crimes, were all pardoned,
but Broadhead was so disgraced as to fly to the United States.
His crimes, however, having been known before his arrival, he
was promptly sent back to England, and finding " no rest for the
sole of his foot," died of a broken heart.

The Union exists as strongly as ever, but, as in Canada, only
interfered with when intimidation is resorted to.

The above facts will explain his reference to the Trades and

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Labor Council, as I presume he is of the non-union party, but
on this subject we had no conversation.

The presentation of a beautiful copy of Sir William's book,
" The Land of the Midnight Sun," being an account of a " Holi-
day Cruise in Norwegian Waters," by himself, and his photo-
graph, ended this most enjoyable visit, and with pleasant
memories sent me on my way once more to the great metropolis
of the world, and to my old familiar hotel on King Street,
Cheapside, in view of the historical Guildhall.

The following is from the pen of Sir William Leng, K.C.M.G. :

Forty years ago Toronto, in British America, was a town of
twenty thousand inhabitants, with little retail business and
still less wholesale trade. There were no grand buildings or
rich people, and railways were not even thought of. To-day
Toronto has two hundred and thirty five miles of streets, dotted
with churches and fine buildings, and illuminated with gas and
electric lamps. It has a population of over a hundred and sixty
thousand, and it is connected with the great railways on whicn
one may journey for over three thoiTsand miles across country
without changing cariiage. During the last eight years its
population has doubled, and the increase of some of the British
American cities, such as Winnipeg and Vancouver, has
even been more rapid than this. The growth of the
Canadian Provinces will be more rapid as their millions of
acres of rich land now untilled attract the surplus population
of Great Britain. How wide is the room for a transfer of
population may be gathered from the fact that while the Cana-
dian Provinces have thirty times the soil area of the British
Isles, they have only one-eighth the population. There is no
more judicious advocate of emigration than Mr. Conyngham
Crawford Taylor, of Her Majesty's Customs, Toronto, now
on a visit to |iliis country. Mr. Taylor is the author of a recent
work entitled "Toronto 'Called Back,' from 1888 to 1847," in
which book he describes the rapid growth and progress of the
city. Mr. Taylor's work is valuable because of the cheering
account it gives of the prosperous condition and i\^e brilliant
prospects of the D< tininion. And the appearance of the book is
timely. It is well timed because a certain exclusive association
desire in their exclu?iveness to straiten ihe supply of labor
in Canada by stopping the emigration of mechanics and skilled
artizans from England to the Dominion. These people are would-

SHEFFIELD.

be monopolists of the Canadian labor market, and having secured
admission to, and a footing? in, Canada for themselves, they are
so well pleased with the advantages of their position that they
desire to slam the door and bolt it in the face of the surplus
skilled labor of the Old Country. Mr. Taylor demonstrates
that there is ample room in Canada for millions of new comers,
and more especially for such as have, in addition to sobriety
and skill, a little capital. The author of " Toronto ' Called
Back'" has been forty-two j^ears in the country, and has seen
thousands of people begin life with nothing but their own
energy, industry, self-reliance, and natural ability to depend
upon, and rise to positions of substantial comfoit and of inde-
pendence. The cultivation of land and the growth of manu-
factures, show remarkable examples of social and industrial
progress. Mr. Taylor affirms that he has seen more poverty
among the waifs, strays, loafers, and casual laborers in a few
English towns than he has seen in Canada during the fifteen
years which have elapsed since he was last in England — a
circumstance partly due to commendable stringency, and a
vigilant enforcement of Canadian laws that aim at the repres-
sion of medicancy and the discouragement of idling.

Mr. Taylor is a decide<l Fair Trader, and deems it absol"tely
indispensable for the growth of the manufacturing industries
in Canada that such industries should have a fair measure of
protection against the rival and competitive industries of tue
United States. He is also an ardtnt Federationist. He knows
that the Canadians are a loyal people, who do because of their
loyalty, desire a closer union with this country. It is a remark-
able circumstance that, notwithstanding Mr. Gold win Smith's
great ability and his persistent advocacy of a commercial union
with the United States, not one Canadian in ten thousand is of
Mr. Goldwin Smith's opinion. Indeed, so signal is the failure
of that able professor to form a party in favor of unrestricted
reciprocity with the United States, that no political party in
Canada either does or can afford to .«o much as appear to
sympathize with the views so energetically urged by him. The
Liberal Government of Ontario and the Conservative Govern-
ment at Ottawa are working harmoniously to promote the
emigration of the better class of working-men from England to
Manitoba.

Mr. Taylor's statistics have in one in,stance been met in this
country with the captious objection that a ce.:ain emigrant to
Canada has cdnie back to this country, and has excused his

doing

telling

his friends that his eL'^eavor'^ to find

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

remunerative employment in Canada had failed. Such an
objection is captious, in so far as it treats the solitary exception
as the rule. We know young men who have gone out, some to
New Zealand, some to Australia, and others to the Cape, and
who have returned with the same sto* It is only fair to add
that all who knew their habits and .. Jencies before they left
England, expected no better of them. Indeed, in not a few
instances, tjiey were liberally assisted with money by their
friends in this country in order to have them exported for a
time and got comfortably out of the way. In new countries,
even more so than in old, the man who succeeds is the man of
independent spirit, determined will, sturdy self reliance. In
British America men with these qualities may carve their way
to fortune, or, at any rate, may earn for themselves a comfort-
able living. It is no use sending our social failures to the
sturdy colonies. The invijjorating Canadian air will stimulate
physical health, but it is no panacea for moral degeneracy. To
live is to labor, even in the most favored regions, and every
emigrant who leaves his country for his good, whether it be to
Canada, Australasia, or South Africa, must distinctly under-
stand that he is going forth to labor. He is leaving a crowded
labor market for one with more room. His condition of life
will be more healthful, but he cannot escape the curse that
compels the children of this world to earn their bread by the
sweat of their brow. It may be said that the rich toil not,
neither do they spin. This is quite a mistake. The wealthy
persons who are engaged in works of benevolei.ee, in public
life, or even in managing their own estates, work hard ; while
the frivolous and profligate And the constant pursuit of pleasure
so laborious and exhaustive, that at the close of a " brilliant
season " we learn they are glad to hasten to the sea-side, the
moors, or the continent, to rest and recruit ! Capital and labor
are what Canada require. Any emigrant who takes either or
both of these with him will succeed in colonial life, and will
be made welcome by those among whom he has elected to live.

London.

Here I anj at once reminded of Lord Mayors' processions,
and of one event which I never forgot — the welcome of 2,000
Belgian volunteens — when all traffic on this street was stopped,
an4 after their entertainment at the Guildhall, Ihey abandoned
Ihemselves to fun and frolic, actually dancing on the street

MANSION HOUSE.

J^'^'i" •/i;;

' 7!' r^'r'w'W?^^^- SSS5*!T'Sfs¥S^^

v»

LONDON.

with an occasional policeman for partners, which I actually
witnessed, to the intense delight of the people who crowded
every window and door and even the housetops.

They were undoubtedly the finest body of volunteers that ever
appeared in England, all being of a high class of gentlemen,
and the cloth of their uniforms being the finest and most
expensive.

No doubt the relationship of King Leopold with our gracious
Queen increased the enthusiasm of the people.

Such is one of the many associations that crowded on my
memory my first night in London, after an absence of fifteen
years, and on the street where every house has a history.

Here in a labyrinth of streets, many with unpretentious names,
— as Ironmonger Lane, Old 'Change, Gutter Lane, Love Lane,
Staining Lane, Mitre Court, Prudent Passage, Paternoster
Row, Ave Maria Lane, and Amen Corner, amongst all of which
I had become as familiar as with the lanes of Toronto — is stored
away in warehouses merchandise of fabulous value.

In this great centre of business, if lying awake at night, per-
chance through the cares of business, you will hear each quart
•i'heure the musical chimes of Bow Bells, and in no town in Can-
ada, although having spent Sunday in nearly every one, have I
spent as quiet a Sabbath as in the very heart of this great city.
There appears to be no one on the streets ; omnibuses in
Cheapside, close by, are few and far between, and city churches
are frequented only by caretakers and a few whose business
compels them to live there. The exception to this is the service
in St. Paul's " under the dome," where thousands congregate at
seven o'clock p.m. The cause of this quietude after the over-
whelming rush of six days, and indeed every night, will be
understood by the fact of nearly a million of people going out
of the city every night, and coining in every business morning.

To a stranger in the city the feelinn^ of loneliness is something
oppressive on Sunday, and le fi els indeed, as it were, " to tread
alone some baruiuet hall deserted," so great is the change from
the previous day, and the temptation to avail one's self of the
various means of sight-seeing and Gospel hearing at a distance
6

I I

TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

is correspondingly o;reat. The hundreds of steamboats on the
Thames, with crowds rushing to Kew Gardens, Greenwich, and
ail the other pleasure resorts, may not entice the sober church-
going man ; but even to visit Westminster Abbey, or to hear
Spurgeon, or to take a walk in Hyde Park or Kensington
Gardens, there are few indeed who do not make use of railway,
steamboat, or omnibus.

After periodical visits to London of weeks' duration for
twenty-five years, the writer has only got, as it were, glimpses
of its vastness. With an addition of thirty miles of new streets
every year, and one hundred thousand to its population, no
person, even an inhabitant, can keep up with its progress.
London has a beauty and grandeur all its own ; every foot of
ground on which you tread has a history away back for centu-
ries. The beauty of its parks, squares and palaces is constantly
impressed on the mind of the traveller who has an eye capable
of appreciation, and its grandeur is everywhere appar-^nt.
The grandeur, for one thing, of stupendous va.stness, and absorb-
ing, unpausing work, a huge mass of men and buildings. The
streets and avenues are dark with swarming myriads, which
almost bewilder the senses. In fact, any description of London
must necessarily fall short of the reality, and should not be
attempted by any one imlividual.

A traveller walking twenty miles a day, would require
twelve months to see the streets, and then would be like Sir
Isaac Newton, when comparing his knowlodg*' to that of a boy
picking up pebbles on the sea-shoie, while the great ocean of
the inner life and history of London " lay undiscovered before
him." Supposing that you wished to walk thi'ougli all the
streets and lanes and alleys of London, and were ablt to arrange
your trip so that you never traversed the same one twice, you
would have to walk ten miles every day for nine years before
your journey would be completed, and yet how many who have
gone to Europe for a three months' tour have " done " London
in as many days.

A friend of mine in Manchester 'had represented the house
of J. P. Westhead & Co., of Piccadilly, for many years, his

LONDON.

weekly route extending to Sheffield, just forty-one miles. His
departure on Monday morning en route was the occasion of
an affecting scene, his wife always moved to tears, so that his
journeys were not long nor his experience of travelling very
extensive. He had never been in London, and he thought he
would take advantage of an excursion trip to go there, an
account of which he related to me himself. He found himself
at the end of his journey at Euston Station, and not being
encumbered with baggage, jumped on the first omnibus he
saw and took his seat beside the driver. Having travelled
as he supposed ten or twelve miles eastward, the omnibus
stopped, and the driver informed him that they had come
to the end of the route. My friend inquired when he would
return, and as it was almost immediately, he never descended
from his seat, but went straight back again. He told me
he thought he must have passed St. Paul's, but did not recollect
any other point of interest. He had seen London, and returned
quickly to the bosom of his family.

In 1801, Charles Lamb, writing to Wordsworth, said: "I
have passed all my days in London, until I have formed as many
and as intense local attachments as any of your mountaineers
can have done with dear" nature. The lighted shops of the
Strand and Fleet Street, the innumerable trades, tradesmen and
customers, coaches, waggons, play-houses ; all the bustle round
about Covent Garden, the watchmen, drunken scenes, rattles;
life awake, if you awake, at all hours of the night ; the impos-
sibility of being dull in Fleet Street, the crowds, the very dirt
and mud, the sun shinin;; upon houses and pavements, the print
shops, the old book stalls, parsons cheapening books, coffee-
houses, steams of soups from kitchens, the pantomimes — London
itself a pantomime and a masquerade — all these things work
themselves into my mind, and feed me, without a power of
satiating me. The wonder of these sights impels me into night-
walks about her crowded streets, and I often shed tears in the
motley Strand, from fulness of joy at so much life. I consider
the clouds above me but as a roof beautifully painted but unable
to satisfy the mind, and at last like the pictures of the apart-

I s

) I

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

ment of a connoisseur, unable to afford him any longer a pleasure.
So fading upon me from disuse have been the beauties of Nature,
as they have been confinedly palled, so ever fresh and green
and warm are all the inventions of men and assemblies of men
in this great city."

It is safe to say that London has made greater progress in
the ninety years since the above was written, than in nine
hundred years previously.

The watchman's rattle has given place to the perfect system
of patrol, and the telephone. The regulation of street traffic
to-day is so complete that a policeman by lifting his hand can
stay the immense tide in any of the great thoroughfares, and
the uplifted w hips of cabmen and other drivers to be seen back
for miles is the response to this simple motion by the representa-
tive of law and order.

How little Charles Lamb dreamed of underground railways,
encircling the city, of pneumatic tubes for transmission of mails,
of ocean cables, of a city of 5,000,000 inhabitants, the Holborn
Viaduct, the palatial hotels, of Belgravia, and the magnificent
mansions of the West End, and of the railroads centreing in
London, with an invested capital of £820,000,000 sterling, or
J^4.,100,000,000, with yearly receipts of $350,000,000. Neither
had he conceived of the possibility of ocean steam navigation,
with a daily mail across the Atlantic ; or of penny postage, gas
and electric lightning, or asphalt pavements, or street tramways,
all of which are so natural in the present day as to create no
astonishment.

London covers nearly seven hundred square miles. It has
.seven thousand miles of streets ; its population comprises
1,000,000 foreigners from every quarter of the Globe. It con-
tains more Roman Catholics than Rome, more Jews than all
Palestine, more Scotchmen than Aberdeen, more Irish than
Belfast, and more Welshmen than Cardiff. Ten thousand new
houses are built every year.

The pavements of London are valued at £100,000,000, or
$500,000,000.

There are in London more churches and chapels than in the

!.'?l

TUK liANK OK KNOI.AND.

LONDON.

whole of Italy. It has 618 railway stations. Nearly 1,600
passenger trains pass Clapham Junction every day, or one every
minute in the 24 hours.

The underground railways run more than 1,200 trains a day,
and carry more than 12,000,000 pa.ssengers a year.

The omnibus companies run 1,000 stages, and carry 56,000,000
passengers a year.

About 130 persons are killed, and 2,000 injured every year
by vehicles on the streets.

There are in London 14,000 policemen, 14,000 cabmen, and
15,000 connected with the post office.

The cost of lighting London with gas is annually $3,000,000.

London has over 400 daily and weekly newspapers.

Last year there were 2,314 fires.

London has 67 hospitals, with 6,588 beds, and 56,493 patients
are received annually. The number of out-door patients treated
during the past two years exceeded 1,000,000.

More people live in London than in the whole of Denmark
or Switzerland, more than twice as many as in Saxony or Nor-
way, and nearly as many as in Scotland or the Dominion of
Canada.

If the wealth of London were equally distributed, the inter-
est would be sufficient to support the whole population, with-
out any employment, and further accumulations by industrial
pursuits would go to increase the original capital.

In the year 43 A.D., Tacitus mentions that it was then " the
great mart of trade and commerce, and the chief residence of
merchants."

Howe says that " the walls of London were built by Helena,
mother of Constantine the Great, about the year of Christ 306."
They were more than two miles in circumference, defended
by towers, and marked at the principal points by the great
gates, Aldgate, Bishopsgate, Cripplegate, Aldersgate, and Lud-
gate.

Quantities of Roman antiquities, tesselated pavements, urns,
vases, and coins, have been found within this circuit.

The entrance to the city from the west has, from time im-

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TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

memorial, been through Temple Bar, but removed since my
last visit.

Here on state occasions, when the Queen entered the city,
the keys were presented by the Lord Mayor, to whom they
were returned at the conclusion of the formalities.

Northumberland Avenue.

Amongst the great improvements in the West End of London
in late years the opening up of Northumberland Avenue,
from Trafalgar Square to the Thames Embankment, is one of the
most conspicuous. For its length, no street in the world contains
so many splendid hotels.

The "Grand," the "Victoria," the " Metropole," and the
" Savoy " are all on a grand scale ; and the style and finish,
especially of the two latter, are entirely new and beautifully
elegant.

The introduction of mosaics and marqueterie in floors and
walls gives a richness of effect, combined with the general
decorations and furnishings, altogether different from those of
older hotels, either English, French, or American.

The " Savoy," styled the " Hotel de Luxe " of the world, has
certainly many claims to that designation. The situation
nearest the river, and looking into the gardens of the Thames
Embankment, makes it a veritable paradise, while the white
marble and gilding of the exterior give it a mo^t palatial
appearance.

All these hotels are furnished with copies of "Toronto
' Called Back,' " and placed in the printed catalogues of their
libraries.

On presenting a copy to Mr. Hardwicke, the manager of the
" Savoy," he was much interested, informing rae that he knew
Toronto, having lived years ago in the house of McMaster &
Company.

The Colonial Institute, in which are discussed by leading
statesmen from every portion of the British Empire all questions
affecting the interest of the colonies, has its offices in this
street.

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WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Having presented the Librarian, Mr. Boose, with a copy of
" Toronto ' Called Back,' " I received an official acknowledgment
with thanks, also a letter informing me that my name had been
placed on the books as a visiting member of the Institute.

Westminster Abbey.

" That antique pile behold !
Where royal heads received the aacred gold,
It gives them crowns and does their ashes keep ;
There made like gods, like mortals there they sleep,
Making the circle of their reign complete,
These suns of empire, where they rise they set."

Although having paid frequent visits to Westminster Abbey,
I never had the privilege of any descriptive lecture on the
tombs of the kings till this time. Takin<r advantage of the
opportunity by paying a small fee, well worth the price, as the
crowd is thereby prevented from jostling, and you can listen
and hear without interruption, the verger took us through
the various apartments sacred to the memory of the illustrious
and royal sleepers, and with great beauty and felicity of
language described the burial, the monuments and inscriptions
of nineteen kings and queens whose names, in every variety of
brass and marble, are here immortalized, giving a lesson in the
history of England which can in no other way be so eloquently
taught.

While I do not pretend to give a verbatim report of the
lecture, the substance will be found in what I write, assisted
from various other .sources. History says that " Sebert, nephew
of King Ethelbert, in the fifth century built on a muddy,
marshy place, near London, where there had been a temple to
Apollo, a church dedicated to St. Peter, which is uow West-
minster Abbey ; and in London itself, on the foundation of a
temple to Diana, he built another little church, which has risen
up, sin(;e that old time, to be St. Paul's."

The first event in the Abbey of which there is any certain
record, after the burial of Edward the Confessor, was the coro-
nation of William the Conqueror, which was followed by kings

TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

and queens down to the last, that of Her Majesty Queen
Victoria (whom God preserve), and which, with the coronation
chair, has been described in " Toronto ' Called Back.' " The old
coronation chair and " stone " are still objects of the greatest
curiosity to visitors from all parts of the world. It is said that
this famous stone which is placed beneath the coronation chair
is really Jacob's pillow, transported to Egypt, thence to Sicily or
Spain, from Spain to Ireland ; was thrown on the sea-shore as
an anchor, or (a.s the legend varies on this point), an anchor
pulled up the stone from the bottom of the sea. On the sacred
hill of Tara it became " Lia Fail," the " Stone of Destiny." On
it the kings of Ireland were placed. Fergus, the founder of
the Scottish monarchy, bore the sacred stone from Ireland to
Scotland, encased in a chair of wood. In it, or upon it, the
kings of Scotland were f. aced by the earls of Fife. On this
precious relic Edward fixed his hold ; on it he himself was
crowned king of the Scots.

Then began a war for possession of this relic between Scot-
land and England, but the people of London would not allow it
to depart from themselves. In the Abbey, in spite of treaties
and negotiations during thirty years, it reimained and still
remains. The affection which now clings to it had already
sprung up, and forbade all thought of removing it. In the
coronation chair and on this stone, every English sovereign,
from Edward I. to Queen Victoria, has been inaugurated.

Shakespeare says of it :

'* Methinks I sate on seat of majesty,
In the Cathedral Church of Westminster,
And in that chair where kings and queens are crowned."

I I

Dean Stanley says of it : " The very disfigurements of the
chair, scratched over from top to bottom with the names of
inquisitive visitors, prove not only the reckless irreverence of
the intruders, but also the universal attraction of the relic. It
is the one primeval monument v/hich binds together the whole
empire. The iron ring, the battered surface, the crack which
has all but rent its solid mass asunder, bear witness to its long

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

migrations. It is thus embedded in the heart of English
monarchy, an element of poetic, patriarchal, heathen times,
which, like Araunah's threshing-floor, in the midst of the
Temple of Solomon, carries back our thoughts to races and
customs now almost extinct ; a link which unites the throne of
England to the traditions of Tara and lona, and connects the
charms of our complex civilization with the forces of our
mother-earth — the stocks and stones of savage nature."

Of the union of religious feeling with foreign and artistic
tendencies, the whole Abbey, as rebuilt by Henry III., is a
monument.

He determined that his new church was to be incomparable
for beauty, even in that great age of art. Its Chapter House,
its ornaments down to the lecterns were to be superlative of
their kind. On it foreign artists were invited to spend their
utmost skill. The mosaics were from Rome. The pavement
thus formed and the twisted columns which stand around the
shrine exactly resemble those in the Basilica of Rome. Mosaics
and enamel were combined throughout.

Only three royal marriages have taken place in the Abbey,
those of Henry III., of Richard II., and of Henry VII.

The Anglo-Saxon kings had for the most part been buried at
Winchester, where they lived. The English kings, as soon as
they became truly English, were crowned, ani lived and died
for many generations at Westminster, and if any have been
interred elsewhere, it was under the shadow of their grandest
royal residence in St. George's Chapel, or in the precincts of
Windsor Castle.

The sepulchral character of Westminster Abbey became the
frame on which its very structure depended. In its successive
adornments and enlargements the minds of its royal patrons
sought their permanent expression, because they regarded it as
enshrining the supreme act of their lives. Thus the arrange-
ments of Westminster Abbey became those of a vast tomb-
house.

The tombs of the kings took their rise from the burial of
Henry III., in 1272, by the shrine of the Confessor, although

TOIIONTO "CALLED RACK" AND EMIGRATION.

'\ !

i !
i '
i !

Sobei't and Etholn;e(la are said fco lie by the entrance to the
Chapter House. Beside the Confessor is laid Edith his wife,
then followed the "good Queen Maud," Eleanor of Castile;
then followed Edward I., Queen Philippa, Edward III., Queen
Anne of Bohemia, Richard II ., Henry V. (whose magnificent
chantry is one of the most t?laborato specimens of architecture
in the Abbey). No English king's funeral had ever been so
grand. It is this scene alone which brings the interior of the
Abbey on the stag<j of Shakespeare :

" Hung bo tho heiivuuH with Mack, yiold day to night 1
King Hunry tlie Fifth, too famous to live long !
Enghmd ne'ur h>at a king of so nmch worth."

Catherine of Valois, whcnse remains had been placed in a rude
tomb, in the Lady Chappl, in 1437, were 440 years afterwards,
by order of Queen Victoria, deposited in the Chantry of Henry
V. under the ancient altar slab of the chapel.

Henry VII., who had built the magnificent cliapel called by
his name, and containing the stalls of the Knights of the Bath,
Edward VI., Mary, Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, Anne of
Denmark, James I., Mary of Orange, mother of William III. ;
Charles IF., William HI., of whom the poet Watts ha.s written
for his epitaph :

" Preserve, O venerable pile
Inviolate thy sacred trust,
To thy cold arms the British Isle,
Weeping, commits her richest dust."

Then followed Mary II., followed by Queen Anne, George II.
and Queen Caroline.

In the Poet's tlorner, so often described, .several additions
have been made since my last visit, especially the beautiful
white marble medallion cenotaph to John and Charles Wesley,
and the splendid bust of LongfpUow, which, as a graceful
tribute to American poetry, was given a conspicuous place.
The Wesley monument occupies a place connecting the endless
group of poets with the grand piles of monumental structures

r
i

■i

THE (OROXATION ( IIAIH.

I >

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

and effigies which surround the vast aisle, and comprise the
greatest names in the world's history, of statesmen, warriors,
musicians and historians, of eight centuries.

Besides the kings and queens interred in the Abbey, are
numbers of princes and illustrious nobility.

The close of George the Third's reign witnessed the final separ-
ation of royal internment from Westminster Abbey, and by a
rebound of feeling, the honor of royal sepulture was restored
to the Wolsey Chapel at Windsor, and another mausoleum has
arisen within the bounds of the royal domain of Windsor. The
renewed splendor of the chapel which contains che last remains
of the House of Hanover, well continues the transition to " the
father of our kings to be," the coming dynasty of Saxe-Coburg.

One illustrious exile, the Duke of Montpensier, is buried in
the Abbey, and close by his tomb is that of Lady Augusta
Stanley, buried March 9th, 1876, followed to her grave by the
tears of all ranks, from her royal mistress down to her humblest
and poorest neighbors, whom .she had alike faithfully served;
by the representatives of the various churclies, and of the science
and literature, both of England and America, whom she
delighted to gather round her, enshrined in the Abbey which
she had so dearly loved and of which, for twelve bright years,
she had been the glory and the charm. And beside her, in
1881, her husband. Dean Stanley, Dean of Westminster, was
laid to rest.

A white wreath, with an autograph letter of the Queen, is
placed on Lady Stanley's grave.

With Elizabeth began the tombs of Poets' Corner; with
Cromwell a new impetus w^as given to the tombs of warriors
and statesmen, and with William III. began the tombs of
the leaders of Parliament.

The first of the poets buried in the Poets' Corner was
Chaucer, in the year 1400, followed by a long line of men
whose effusions are as immortal as their names, including Dry-
den, Shadwell, Pope, Addison, Milton, Shakespeare, Goldsmith,
Gay, Prior, Cowley, Thomson, Spenser, Watts, Charles Wesley,
Herbert, Campbell, Swift, Ramsey, Young, Cowper, Rogers,

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Wordsworth, Coleridge, Shelley, Keats, Thackeray, Dickens,
Livingstone, etc.

Here, on the occa>ion of her marriage, Mrs. Henry M. Stanley
stepped aside from the bridal procession and placed on the
tablet to Livingstone a wreath of white flowers, in the centre
of which was a scarlet letter " L"

In the Abbey every day may be seen artists sketching th3
statues and sculpture of the monuments, which are subjects of
never-ending interest.

The Houses of Parliament.

Immediately opposite Westminster Abbey is New Palace Yard,
backed by Westminster Hall and the new Houses of Parliament.
They occupy the site of the palace inhabited by the ancient
sovereigns of England, from early Anglo-Saxon times till
Henry VIII. went to reside at Whitehall. Here they lived
in security under the shadow of the great neighboring sanctuary,
and one after another saw arise within the walls of their
palace, those Houses of Parliament which have now swallowed
up the whole.

The palace was frequently enlarged and beautified, especially
by William Rufus, who built the hall, by Stephen, who built
the chapel, and by Henry VIII., who built the Star Cham-
ber.

The Star Chamber took its name from the j;ilt stars upon the
ceiling. It was the terrible court in which the functions of
prosecutor and judge were confounded, and where every punish-
ment, except death, could be inflicted — imprisonment, pillory,
branding, whipping, etc.

The new Palace of Westminster, containing the Houses of
Parliament, was built 1840 to 1859, trom designs by Sir
Charles Barry, in the Tudor style of Henry VIII. It is twice
the size of the old palace, and one of the largest Gothic buildings
in the world. ,

The exterior is of Yorkshire limestone, and the interior of
Caen stone. It has three towers, the central tower over <<he
octagon hall, the clock tower (320 feet high), occupying nee,rly

'i ■:•■ S&'

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u^w^iii

I <:

-'r>^ -^

WESTMINSTER PALACE.

THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.

the same site as the ancient clock tower of Edward I., where
the ancient " Great Tom " of Westminster for 400 years sounded
the hours to the judges of England, and the Victoria tower, 75
feet square and 336 feet high, being the gateway by which the
Queen approaches the House of Lords. Over the arch of the
gate is the statue of the Queen supported by figures of " Justice "
and " Mercy."

On the south side of New Palace Yard is Westminster Hall,
with its great door and window, between two square towers,
and above the high gable of the roof upon which the heads of
Oliver Cromwell, Ireton and Bradshaw were set up on the
Restoration.

It is related that Cromwell's head being embalmed, remained
exposed to the atmosphere for twenty -five years, and then one
stormy night it was blown down, and picked up by the sentry,
who took it home and secreted it in the chimney corner, and
only on his death-bed revealed where he had hidden it.

His family sold the head to a person of the name of Russell,
and in the same box in which it now is. It was sold to James
Cox, who owned a museum, where he exhibited it, and was then
sold for £230 to three men who continued the exhibition, at
half-a-crown a head ; when the last of these three men died the
head came into possession of three nieces.

These young ladies, being nervous about keeping it in the
house, asked Mr. Wilkinson, their medical man, to take care of
it, and subsequently sold it to him. For the next fifteen or
twenty years, Mr. Wilkinson was in the habit of showing it to
all the distinguished men of the day.

It is further said that the head of Cromwell still exists in
the possession of Mr. H. Wilkinson, Seven Oaks, Kent.

It is rather remarkable with this history existing to find a
magnificent statue of the Protector, placed on a solid rock
pedestal, in the greatest public thoroughfare in Manchester, just
in front of the magnificent Victoria Hotel.

Westminster Hall has been the scene of memorable events
for the past six centuries. Here Perkin Warbeck was set &
whole day in the stocks. Thomas Lovelace was pilloried and

i' !

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

had one of his ears cut off. Here Alexander Leighton, father
of the archbishop, was not only pilloried but publicly whipped.
Here Wm. Prynne (1636), for writing the " Histrio Mastrix,"
which was supposed to reflect on Henrietta Maria, was put in
the pillory, branded on both cheeks with the letters S L
(seditious libeller), and lost one of his ears. And here the Duke
of Hamilton, Lord Capel, and the Earl of Holland were beheaded
for the cause of Charles I,

Westminster Hall, first built by William Rufus, was almost
rebuilt by Richard II,, who added the noble roof of cobweble.ss
beams of Irish oak, " on which spiders cannot live." The hall,
which is two hundred and seventy feet long, forms a glorious
vestibule to the modern Houses of Parliament. In its long
existence the hall has witnessed more tragic scenes than any
building in England except the Tower of London. Sir William
Wallace was condemned to death here in 1305, and Sir John
Oldcastle, the Wickliffite, in 1417.

in 1517, three queens — Katharine of Aragon, J-!argaret of
Scotland, and Mary of France — long upon their knees, " here
begged panlon of Henry VIII, for four hundred and eighty
men and women, and obtained their forgiveness," The Duke of
Buckingham was tried here and condemned, in 1522, and on
hearing his sentence, pronouncetl the touching speech which
is familiar in the words of Shakespeare Here Sir Thomas
More ; Fisher, Bishop of Rochester ; the Pj-otector Somerset,
Sir Thomas Wyatt, Howard Duke of Norfolk, Philip Earl of
Arundel, Eaii of Essex, and Earl of Southampton, were all con-
demned to the block. Here sentence was passed upon the
conspirators of the Gunpowder Plot, in 1606, and (m the Duke
and Duchess of Somerset, for the murder of Sir Thomas Over-
bury, in 1616,

In the same place Charles himself appeared as a prisoner, in
1649, Then followed some most remarkable trials, including
that of Lord Byron, for tiie murder of Mr, Chaworth, in 1765.
The last great trial in tViu hall was'that of Warren Hastings, in
1788, Here I saw the Tichborne claimant when on his trial.
The court held here has been transferred to the new Law
Courts.

INTERIOR OF THE IMI'KRIAL HOU.SE OF COMMONS.

HJ |ii i.<J I | l ll < | I B il|l », i | ■■ I ' fi.

i :i

THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.

The staircase at the south end is decorated with statues, in
marble, of fiurke, Grattan, Pitt, Fox, Manstield, Chatham, Sir
Robert Walpole, Lord Somers, Lord Clarendon, Lord Falkland,
Hampden and Seldon. The Commons corridor, leading to the
lobby of the House of Commons, is adorned with frescoes repre-
senting great historical events. On the left of the lobby, a
magnificent centre for this grand national and imperial edifice,
are the luxurious rooms of the library, where members write
their letters and concoct their speeches. Here 1 had the pleasure
of presenting a copy of "Toronto 'Called Back'" to the
librarian, Ralph Walpole, Esq., and for which I have an official
letter of thanks, by order of the Speaker.

The Peers' corridor, leading to the House of Lords, is lined
with magnificent frescoes, representing scenes of intense interest
in English history. The Hcjuse of Lords, overladen with
painting and gilding, has a flat roof and stained glass windows
filled with portraits of kings and queens. The seats for the
peers (235) are arranged longitudinally, the Government side
being to the right of the throne and the bishops' nearest the
throne. The frescoes about the throne are very fine, and the
whole house is gorgeous in carving, scailet and gold.

Through the kindness of Sir Charles Tupper, I was admitted
to both Houses of Parliament. A letter to Admiral Sir Spencer
Clifford, yeoman usher of the Black Rod, secured me the most
polite attention, Sir Spencer, in full official costume, with
cocked hat and sword, conducting me personally into the House
of Lords.

Lord Salisbury, who occupied a seat on the woolsack beside
the Lord Chancellor, was sent for, while I was in the House,
to attend a conference with the Home Secretary, Hon. Mr.
Matthews, in the matter of Mrs. May brick's fate; and at that
conference it was decided to commute her sentence to imprison-
ment for life instead of capital punishment, to which she had
been sentenced.

Having previously attended interesting debates in the House
of Commons, my night in the Speakers' Gallery did not excite
much interest. The question having been so frequently dis-
cussed had become tiresome.

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

A number of Irish members spoke on the subject of the
treatment of political prisoners, also Mr. Shaw Lefevre, who
made the speech of the evening, showing to his own satisfaction
and that of the Irish members the great distinction made
under every form of government between political and criminal
offences.

Then followed Messrs. Sexton, Egan, Healy, Harrington and
other Irish members, stating their grievances as to prison dis-
cipline, the wearing of prison dress, having their hair cut short,
and being deprived of materials for engaging in literary pur-
suits, especially in the case of Mr. William O'Brien ; and finally
♦ lie debate was wound up by Mr. Bradlaugh, showing the
monstrous injustice and tyranny exercised towards these gentle-
men, some of whom had just got out of prison. Mr. Parnell
was present, but did not speak.

The Government benches having become almost bare during
these speeches, Mr. Balfour had to bear the whole brunt of the
charges. In a quiet way he stated that he knew no distinction
between those who broke the law of the land in one way and
those who broke it another, and such being the case, all offenders
must stand on the same level, and be treated alike.

A gentleman who sat beside me told me he was from Ennis-
corthy, County Wexford, and had come to London with his
sister for a change, that their life at home was almost insupport-
able with boycotting, and various persecutions which they
endured ; and, consequently, he said he had no sympathy with
men who, by word or act, encouraged and perpetuated such a
state of things.

As ladies in the House of Commons may see through the brass
screen, but not be seen, my new-found friend had arranged a
private signal with his sister, by which they could telegraph
across the House, right over the Speaker's chair and the
reporters' gallery, as to the time they might mutually desire to
retire.

M\ rAl'l, S C.VTUKKKAI..

TIIK IIOUHKH OK I'AIIMAMKNT.

»7

St. Paul'H Oathedral.

In I'miyrr Allry, Irjulin;,' into Newgate; Strctit, Imilt in tin;
wall is a stone, with a n-lii;!' of a \n>y sitting in a pany<;r
(a l)ak«;r's Waskct), inscrilit!'!

" WIm!|i yo Iwivii KiMi^lil
TUi- lily louml,
Yut Hiill UliH JH
Tilt! Iiif;!li('ht kioiiikI."

AnKiml, till! 27 U», WiHH.

As tlu! Iinif^ht of tim ItiilMin;^ to thci top of tlio ciohh is four
}iun<Ir(Ml an<l four fcitt, and tin; IxiiMin^ Ixiin^ on tin; lii^licwt
j^rournl, St. INuil's is hy far tin; most con.spicuoiis l)uil«lin>^ in
London. Alt)iou;,di a man can stand up witliin tin; ttall l><:nouih
thu crusH, it has Immjii said of it,

"A Kcilduii ({lohu ]>Iacu<1 lii({)i, with artful Hkill,
SueiiiH to t}iu (linUiiit Hi({ht a ^il(lcd jiill."

The original foundation of St. Paul's almoHt corre-
sponds with WoHtininstor Ahboy. Ono claiuiH to be built
on thu uite of the Temple of Diana and the other of
Apollo, and on account of certain advantages said to
bo given to one over the other, the proverb of "Robbing
Peter to pay Paul " in said to have originated. Old St. Paul'H
has been burnt five times. It attained its tinal magnificence when,
in the thirteenth century, it was a vista of Oothic arches, seven
hundred feet in length, and was crowded with monuments of
illustrious men. In the north aisle, behind the tomb of John
of (Jaunt, Vandyke was buried in 1041.

It was in old St. Paul's that King John, in 1213, acknowledged
the Hupreinacy of the Pope.

In 1401, the first English martyr, William Sawtre, was
stripped of all his priestly vestments in St. Paul's before being
sent to the stake at Smithtield.

In 1627, the Protestant Bible was publicly burnt in St. Paul's
by Cardinal Wolsey.

•8

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

The present building was erected between the years 1675
and 1710, having taken thirty-five years to build.

The first statue erected in St. Paul's was that of John
Howard, then followed Dr. Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir
William Jones ; these were followed by the heroes of Nelson's
naval victories, and of Indian warriors and statesmen, and
others too numerous to mention, amongst which we see the
names of Sir Isaac Brock, Sir Ralph Abercombie, Sir John
Moore, Sir Astley Cooper, Lord Nelson, and magnificent groups
of the Marquis of Cornwallis, Earl Howe, Sir Henry Lawrence,
Napier, Ponsonby, Duncan, Dundas, Hay, St. Vincent, Picton,
and Curran.

The sarcophagus of Nelson was designed and executed for
Cardinal Wolsey by the famous Torregiazo, and was intended
to contain the body of Henry VIII, in the tomb-house at
Windsor. It encloses the coffin made from the mast of the
ship L'Orient.

A second huge sarcophagus of porphyry, resting on lions, is the
tomb of Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington, and was laid in
1852, in the presence of fifteen thousand spectators. Dean
Milman, who had been present at Nelson's funeral, read the
service. Beyond the tomb of Nelson, in a chamber hung with
velvet, where we see emblazoned the many orders presented to
him by foreign sovereigns, is the funeral car of Wellington,
modelled and constructed in six weeks, at an expense of $65,000,
from the guns taken in his ditiferent campaigns.

Tablet to Sir Ohristopher Wren in St. Paul's Cathedral.

INSCRIPTION.

SUBTUS CONDITOR HUJUS ECCLE8IA ET URBIS CONDIXOR

CHRISTOPHORUS WREN

)UI VIXIT ANNOS ULTRA NONAOENTA NGN 3IBI SED BOKO PUBLICO LBOTOR.

" SI MONUMENTUM BfQUIRIs"

CIRCUaCSFICE

OBIT, 25 FEBY, ETATIS XCI.

ANNO 1728.

^Sfr ^*^. ^"^-^ r^'"^^ -*^

WELLINOTON S MOXIMENT, ST. PAUL S CATHKDl! AI..

THE GUILDHALL.

Having had occasion to quote the above epitaph, in " Toronto
' Called Back,' " and as there was a difference of opinion as to
the word "requiris," I took the opportunity of copying the
inscription in full from the tablet, over the north door.

Of late years immense sums have been expended in beauti-
fying St. Paul's. The chapel has had much additional orna-
mentation. The celebrated paintings in the dome, representing
scenes in the life of St. Paul, have been retouched ; a beautiful
marble pulpit, in memory of the heroes of the Crimea, has been
placed under the dome, and here the leading divines of England,
on Sunday evenings, nreach to congregations of from 6,000 to
10,000 people.

The yard itself has been much beautified, the removal of the
railing from the west front — a portion of which has found its
way to Howard Park, Toronto, and surrounds the Howard
vault — and the opening of the eastern gates, where a beautiful
park with flower-beds has taken the place of dreary solitude,
are a great boon to citizens living amongst vast buildings of
brick and stone.

Here are flocks of tame pigeons fed by friendly hands of those
who step aside to rest among.st the flower-beds, while the tide
of traffic unceasingly flows past the south side to Ludgate Hill
and Fleet Street.

The Guildhall

Was originally built in the time of Henry IV., 1411, and its
history since that time has been the history of the city of
London. Here the freedom of the city has been conferred on
the greatest men the world has seen, whether as foreign
potentates, distinguished men of letters, in arts, sciences and
literature, statesmen, foreign ambassadors and philanthropists,
travellers and philosophers ; while the statues of Pitt and
Chatham, Nelson and Beckford, amongst others stand side by
side with Gog and Magog, which used to bear a conspicuous
part in the pageant of Lord Mayor's day, and which still keep
guar'' ' l'*lr" onnrmous playthings for the children of giants,"
while through the vast stained glass windows streams of

100

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

colored \\^,\\t fall in prismatic rays upon the pavement of this
hall, which is 152 feet long by 50 broad, the scene of the
ujost magnificent bancjuets, with their services of solid gold,
perhaps the world has ever seen. The last being on the occasion
of the reception of Henry M. Stanley.

Amongst the rooms adjoining the Guildhall is the Alder-
men's Court, a beautiful old chamber ricldy adorned with
carvings and allegorical paintings by Sir James Thornhill.

The Common Council Chamber contains a tine statue of
George III., by Chantry. At the east end of the chamber is an
enormous picture of the siege of Gibraltar, 1782, with Lord
Heathlield on horseback in the foreground, by Copley. Amongst
other pictures are Alderman Boydell and Lord Nelson, by
Beechy ; " The Murder of Rizzio," by Opie ; " The Death of
Watt Tyler," by Northcote; 'Queen Caroline of Brunswick,"
by Lonsdale ; " Queen Victoria," by Hayter ; " Princess Char-
lotte," by Lonsdale.

From the east end of the Guildhall a staircase leads to the
library. On the landing at the top are statues of Charles II.
and Sir John Cutler. The handsome modern Gothic library
contains a very valuable collection of books, which are free to
the public, on application, to be returned when used, with the
printed slip. There is no circulating department.

Here I had the pleasure of presenting a copy of " Toronto
'Called Back'" to the gentlemanly librarian, who took great
pains to point out to me all objects of interest, including
full-length portraits of William III. and Mary II., by
Vandor Vaart, and also in a room on the right, where is a
valuable collection of drawings of Old London, and of New
London Bridge. He then escorted nie through the interesting
museum, contained in a vaulted chamber underneath, contain-
ing relics of Old London dug up from time to time, chiefly
Roman antiquities, in the shape of vases, urns, bottles, coins,
inscriptions, etc. %

On occasions of great banquets and receptions, the library is
utilized as a reception and cloak-room, and at Stanley's recep-
tion, was used for dancing. Since my visit the beautiful ait
gallery has been opened.

iJ>:.i:

THE ROYAL EXCHANGE.

LLOYDS.

101

Since my return I have received a handsomely engraved
acknowledgment from the Library Committee of the Corpor-
ation of the City of London, with thanks for the gift of
" Toronto ' Called Back.' "

"Lloyds."

The board of underwriters known as " Lloyds," which name
originated in the early transactions of the business at Lloyd's
Coffee House, corner of Abchurch Lane, occupy the eastern
part of the Royal Exchange.

The present Exchange, built on the site of two others —the
first opened by Queen Elizabeth, in 1571 — was opened bj' Prince
Albert, in 1844. It is a splendid building, enclosing a large
cloistered court, with a statue of Queen Victoria in the
centre, while in the south-east angle is preserved the statue of
Charles II., by Gibbons. The inscription on the pedestal of the
figure of " Commerce," in the front of the building, is : " The
earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof."

" Lloyds " is the great rendezvous of ship-owners, and all
who seek shipping intelligence, and through the underwriters is
effected insurance on all British ships and cargoes afloat in the
world. The system is so perfect of " underwriting " — that is,
each broker writes the amount of risk he wishes to take under
the others, and so by data gained by experience as correct as
life insurance — the individual losses are reduced to a minimum,
and a failure seldom or never takes place.

Through the kindness of the librarian, to whom I presented
a copy of " Toronto ' Called Back,' " I was shown the whole
system of registration and records of ships and ship-masters,
the indicators of the weather, and the record of latest intelli-
gence by telegraph from every part of the world.

The first book in which the greatest interest is taken every
morning is the " report book," containing the latest news of
shipwrecks, collisions and all incidents affecting insurance.
This book is anxiously read every morning.

The whole arrangements for reading, refreshments and every
accommodation for captains and ship-owners are of the most

102

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

complete description. Immense books are open, each contain-
ing one letter of the alphabet, in which the history of each
ship is recorded up to the latest date ; and in another similar,
ranging from A to Z, is the history of every captain from his
appointment till his death. Here I was shown the first marine
insurance policy ever issued, dated in 1631.

Lloyd's universal register of British and foreign shipping
contains, as far as possible, particulars of every sea-going
vessel, including yachts, in the world, of one hundred tons
and upwards, and alphabetical list of all ship-owners and
particulars of the war vessels belonging to all nations.

Thid ancient and wonderful institution will well repay
a visit, and the name of Toronto or Canada given to the
portly and polite janitor, who is always in attendance, clothed
in scarlet and gold from head to foot, will, by announcing the
name, secure the best attention of all other officials.

Dock Laborers' Strike.

To one who has seen able-bodied men singing through the
back streets of London, " We have no work, we have no bread,"
it must be regarded as a sign of improvement in the condition
of working-men, that they can afford to strike without fear of
starvation, and so last September John Burns, the " dockers"
leader," could be seen on Tower Hill, addressing great masses
of dock laborers, and encouraging them in their efforts to get
better wages. This man by his pluck, fortitude and moral
courage undertook to lead, victual and control an army of one
hundred thousand men. A herculean task, by a herculean man,
with great breadth of shoulder, strength of arm and muscle, bold
and deep set, yet frank open face, and magnificent voice, he
gives you at once the sense of leadership. Burns' oratory is
rough, colloquial, but also plain and clear, and with touches of
pathos and eloquence, and keen, dry, homely humor, he is an
ideal speaker to working-men. Mr. Blirns is a life-long teeto-
taler and non-smoker, and passionately attached to his pretty
dark-eyed young wife, who shares all his work and troubles.

Notwithstanding the great sympathy evoked on behalf of the

THE ARMY AND NAVY CO-OPERATIVE STORES.

103

dockmen and the attainment of their demands, it is a question
whether the advantage gained will compensate for the immense
loss of time and money expended, besides the great incon-
venience to the whole shipping trade of London.

The Army and Navy Oo- operative Stores.

I had the pleasure of going through these stores on Victoria
Street, Westminster. The report of this enormous establish-
ment for last year shows the sales to have amounted to
£2,651,059 3s. 4d., or about thirteen millions of dollars.
The gross profits were £285,825 17s. 6d., or nearly one and a
half millions of dollars, and the net profits nearly half a million
dollars, or £98,607 10s.

The departments comprise groceries, provisions, French and
Italian goods, fancy fruits, toys, tobacco, cigars, fancy pipes,
wines, spirits, ironmongery, gas fittings, lamps, turnery, brushes,
ccmbs, baskets, cooperage, leathers, sponges, garden implements,
stationery, printing, artists' colors, mathematical instruments,
books, music, drugs, perfumery (prescriptions dispensed), fancy
goods, plate, jewellery, clocks, watches, bronzes, fitted dressing
bags, optical instrument-^, guns, revolvers, ammunition, natural
history appliances, bird stuffing, tools, drapery, hosiery, mantles,
perambulators, ladies' and children's outfitting, baby linen, dress
materials, tailoring, naval and military accoutrements, barrack
furniture, horse appointments, waterproofing, hats, musical
instruments, china and glass, games, portmanteaus, fishing tackle,
pictures, picture framing, tricycles, bicycles, refreshments, etc.

Having seen the various menu cards an<l tables laid out, I can
imagine that the very choicest viands were provided for the
delectation and comfort of the crowds of customers, who can
thus refresh themselves during the interval of purchasing.
Orders are taken for supplying dinners to parties at prices
ranging from five shillings to twenty shillings each ; while
orders for wedding cakes, from ten shillings to ten guineas, may
be executed without any delay. This magnificent concern gives
employment to over 4,000 people on their own premises.

104

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Imperial Institute of the United Kingdom, the Colonies

and India.

H. R. H. The Prince of Wales, K.O., President.

Commercial Intelligence Department.

One of the objects of this Department is " the continuous
collection of all published matter of an authoritative character
respectinjnf the resources, industries and commerce, the con-
ditions and statistics of trade and labor markets, and the
general commercial relations of the several British Colonies, of
India, and of Foreign States and Colonies, with a view to the
formation and maintenance up to the day of a library of
references on matters relating to commerce and kindred
subjects, to agricultural industries, trades and handicrafts, to
emigration and colonization."

The splendid building in which will be exhibited specimens
of the productions of India and the Colonies is now approach-
ing completion.

The Institute itself is the outcome of the Indian and Colo-
nial Exhibition, and the conception is entirely due to His Royal
Highness the Prince of Wales.

Having presented a copy of " Toronto ' Called Back ' " to
the Assistant Secretary, in the absence of Sir F. A. Abell, I
received the following acknowledgment on his return :
Letter from Sir F. A. Abell, Imperial Institute of the United
Kingdom, the Colonies, and India.

1 Adam Street, Adelphi,
London, August 24th, 1889.
Dear Sir, — I have duly received the copy of your interest-
ing work, " Toronto ' Called Back,' from 1888 to 1847." which
you were so good as to leave at this office for addition to the
library of the Imperial Institute, and I have much pleasure in
conveying to you and Messrs. McGaw and Winnett the thanks
of the Governing Body of the Institute for the same.

I am, Dear Sir, »

Faithfully yours,
(Signed) F. A. Abell, Secretary.

THE QUEEN S VISIT TO WALES,

105

The Queen's Visit to Wales— Wrexham.

Leaving London by the Great Northern Railway on Saturday
morning, and having run one hundred and seventy miles to
Sheffield with only two stops, I arrived in Manchester in
good time to take a train for Chester, ami from thence to
proceed to Wrexham, where the Queen, the Princess Beatrice
and Prince Henry of liattenberg were receiving a splendid
reception. The streets from end to end were adorned with
Venetian masts and flags, and floral festoons. The Mayor of
Wrexham, Mr. Evan Morris, ha(i invited to his house, Roseneath,
a large party of ladies and gentlemen, amongst whom were
the Lords-Lieuten»int of Merionethshire, Carnarvonshire and
Anglesea ; the High Sheriffs, the Marquis of Anglesea ; the
Bishops of Bangor, Shrewsbury and St. Asaph ; Lord and Lady
Trevor, Lord Mostyn, Lor<l Kenyon, several members of Parlia-
ment, and mayors of towns in North Wales.

The distinguished party drove to Acton Park, the seat of
Sir Robert CunlifFe, Baronet, in whose delightful grounds the
Queen was to be met. The Welsh Fusileers, with their white
goat with gilt horns, formed a guard of honor, and an escort
was furnished by the Denbigh Hussars. The brilliant spectacle
was witnessed by immense crowds, and as the royal carriage
appeared, with mounted postillions in advance, tremendous
cheers rent the air. All the trains were crowded to excess, and
it was almost midnight when I reached Corwen, from whence
1 was to proceed to Llandderfel.

The steeple of Wrexham Church is said to be one of the
" seven wonders of Wales," because it is said to rock in windy
weather ; this steeple is said to be celebrated for " the excellence
of its design, its effecti . oness and its beauty," It was begun
in 1506 and not completed for several years. In the church-
yard west of the tower is buried " Eliugh Yale " (son of one of
the Pilgrim Fathers), after whom Yale College, in the United
States, is called. His tombstone, which was restored in 1874 by
the authorities of the College, has an inscription beginning r

106

TORONTO " CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

" Bom in America, in Europe bred, in Africa travelled, in Asia wed,
Where long he lived and thrived, in London dead.
Much good, some ill he did, so hope all's even.
And that his soul through mercy's gop- to heaven."

It was at the old vicarage, at Wrexham, that Bishop Heber
wrote the famous hymn, " From Greenland's icy mountains."

Oorwen.

Arriving a*. Corwen.. by the last train on Saturday night, I
found my way to the best hotel, when I received a cordial
greeting from the hostess, Mrs. Jones, of the Owen Glyndwr
Hotel, and shown to the best bedroom, where the orthodox
four-poster and large feather bed, in a clean, and well-furnished
bedroom, afforded me five hours' sleep, and the promise of the
landlady was strictly kept, that I should have bread and butter
and milk for breakfast at 5 o'clock, the hour being too early
for anything hot. So having paid my bill before retiring, I
was ready for the mail train for Llanddirfel, my destination for
the Sunday. Travelling by the mail train, I arrived there at
7 a.m.

My stay at Corwen did not admit of my seeing anything
of the place, except from the hotel to the railway station. 7.ts
antiquity is quite observable, however. Corwen was the great
centre for Owain Gwyredd, a prince, who ruled in 1165.

Llandderfel.

The village of Llandderfel is said to have been selected by
Her Majesty as the centre of her tours to the different points in
Wales, because she thinks of purchasing P&\4 Hall, where her
whole suite remained during her visit. The estate on which
stands the Hall was purchased by the late Mr. Robertson, the
designer of the viaduct over the Dee. The Hall stands in
magnificent grounds gently sloping down to the River Dee,
which separates the estate from the village, a solid stone bridge
making the connection. The view up aftd down the river from
the bridge is perfectly beautiful.

From Llandderfel, in the troublous times of Charles IL,
several of " The Friends " started for the New World, and they

LLANDDERFEL.

107

are commemorated in the names from the old country which
they gave to their new possessions. On one of the lines running
from Philadelphia there are stations called by the Welsh names
of Berwyn, Bryn Mawr, Wynnewood, etc. Llandderfel has
another claim to the interest of the curious, for there lived one
of the "fasting girls" who have been common in Wales. Of
Gaynor Hughes, the fasting girl of Llandderfel, we are told
that " she died at the age of thirty-five, after living for eight
years without any other sustenance than a spoonful of water
per day, having not the least desire for food of any kind, and
not feeling the smallest pain."

There being no hotels in the village, and the " lodging-houses "
being fiiUy occupied, I had a good deal of difficulty in finding
accommodation. At length I was directed to a Mr. Jones, who
kept a general shop or store, and, on inquiry at the private
door, was told if I could sit and eat with the family in their
living-room through the day, they would accommodate me with
a bedroom at night, the principal sitting-room having been
engaged by the Chief of Police in attendance on the Queen. I
was glad to accept the offer, and soon found myself in one of
those cosy, comfortable rooms, half kitchen and half dining-
room, of which I had seen many in the manufacturing towns of
England — a large range with rocking-chairs on either side, a
home-made rug in front, a good old-fashioned eight-day clock
on one side, the polished kitchen utensils, a good plain sofa, and
table and chairs completed a comfortable-looking picture.
Wishing to ascertain all about the Royal movements, after
breakfast I found my way to the Episcopal church, where early
communion was being celebrated by the Rev. Henry Morgan,
the rector. Wishing to ascertain from him whether Her
Majesty would attend divine service, I remained in the church,
while the members went forward to the communion ; amongst
those presenting themselves wert three ladies dressed exactly
as Roman Catholic nuns, their garments being precisely similar,
and wearing three large silver crosses suspended from their
necks. On seeing me sitting back in the church, the rector
kindly invited me to join them, which I accordingly did.

108

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

After the service, I inquired as to the peculiar appearance of
the ladies, and as to whether they were nuns or Protestants, and
was informed they belonged to the Church Sisterhood, and had
been sent down from London ; had taken no vows, but had
devoted themselves to works of mercy, charity and religion.

I ascertained from Rev. Mr. More;an that the Queen would
not attend service in his church, but would have private service
in the Hall,

A personal application to General Sir Henry Ponsonby and
Hon. Mr. Raikes, ministers in attendance on Her Majesty, only
resulted in the information that no stranger would be admitted,
the service being .strictly confined to Her Majesty, the Princess
Beatrice, Prince Henry of Battenberg, the Princess Alice of
Hesse, and the members of the suite. The Bishop of St. Asaph
officiated, while the choir from St. Asaph's Cathedral rendered
the musical portion.

After service, the Royal party drove across the bridge in an
open carriage and pair, with a single • mounted policeman in
front, and, not being expected, there were no spectators ; the
carriage passed close in front of my lodgings.

The drive was taken to pay a visit to Mr. Robertson, who
was staying with the Bishop of St. Asaph. Returning by the
opposite side of the river lo the Hall, a few persons had
collected at the gates, and having received a gracious bow from
Her Majesty, I was reminded of a similar recognition in the
town of Windsor when, forty years ago, in company with His
late Royal Highness the Prince Con.sort, and having only my
brother beside me, I had the same royal recognition. Her
Majesty bears her years well, and although much changed from
her youthful appearance, has all the appearance of health and
vigor.

The family with whom I stayed being Welsh Calvinistic
Methodists, and the minister who was to preach dining with us,
and there being no other evening seryice in the village, I
accepted an invitation to their chapel and pew.

The minister, before commencing his sermon, said " as there
were some in his congregation who did not understand Welsh,

LLANDDERFEL.

109

he would announce liis text in English," and, having done so,
proceeded in his native language to discuss his theme. This he
did with much force and earnestness and, no doubt, to the
edification of his Welsh hearers. The sinL;;ing was excellent
and most hearty, and the congregation large.

After this the leader of the village choir, numbering fifty
voice.s, and which, by connuand of Her Majesty, appeared at the
Hall every night to sing Welsh songs, introduced a number of
the girls in their Welsh costume, on their way to the Hall.

They wore the tall black conical hats, which I had often seen
the women wear in North Wales years ago, but which are now
laid aside for more modern styles, and Welsh aprons ; these
hats and dresses had been made expressly for the occasion, and
will be preserved as mementos of the Queen's visit, and of their
appearance before Her Majesty. The Roberts family of eight
Welsh harpists also performed before Her Majesty.

On the Queen's first arrival at Llandderfel the Rev. H.
Morgan, on behalf of a deputation, presented Her Majesty with
^n address and a beautiful hazel stick, for which her thanks
were returned, as I. was informed by my host, who was one of
the deputation, in pure Welsh, " I am very much obliged to
you."

There was a beautiful arch, formed with great taste, and
entirely covered with heather, on the road to the station, while
the railway station and its approaches were banked with
flowers and evergreens, and decorated with flags and mottoes.
Ten horses, grays and bays, and five carriages from the Windsor
Castle stables were provided and sent to Llandderfel for Her
Majesty's use, also a favorite pony trained at Windsor to draw
the chaise in which Her Majesty is accustomed to take her
airings in the Palace grounds, was sent to Paid, and in this the
Queen might be seen driving in the avenues of Paid Hall
demesne, when not outside in one of the royal carriages.

110

TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

BaJa.

The road to Bala, along which the royal party drove, is very
beautiful. By its side the dark waters of the Dee hurry over
their rocky bed, and birch and copper beech, retaining their
freshness in the land of rain, form natural archways of verdure.

To the left, the valley rises by sloping meadows and heather-
covered hills into the long range of Berwyn. Farther on, the
heights of Castell Curndochan and Gwynyfynydd are dis-
cernible, and in a clear day, such as the writer was favored
with, the Arrans, with Cader Idris, standing like a sentinel over
the whole. To the right are low hills stretching away into the
distance in graceful curves, and Avening rises in front. Passing
through the main street, I observed just four names on the
sign-boards — if there were any others, they are scarcely worth
mentioning. The names were Jones, Williams, Evans and
Owen — how they distinguish the different families I leave for
others to explain. Bala Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, and
it is said the course of the River Dee can be distinctly seen flow-
ing through the centre. Here Her Majesty was the guest of Sir
Watkin and Lady Williams Wynne, and was presented with
an oil painting of Bala Lake. A gentleman with whom I con-
versed, who had seen the picture, assured me that it did not do
justice to the subject. I can bear testimony to the beauty of
the original and its surroundings.

Bala Lake is the largest sheet of water in Wales.

There is a tradition that the banks of Bala Lake caused the
Deluge, and that Tomen-y- Bala, a mound near the station, is
identical with Mount Ararat.

My experience to the contrary notwithstanding, a despairing
tourist, who encountered a week of bad weather there, thus
gave vent to his emotions in the visitors' book at the Lion

Hotel :

" The we&ther dependa on the moon aa a rule,

And I've found out that the saying is true ;
For at Bala it rains when the moon's at the full,

And it rains when the moon's at the new ;
When the moon's at the quarter, then down comes the r»in,

At the half it's no better I ween ;
When the moon's at three-quarters it's at it again,

And it rains besides mostly between. "

1^1

'li

f^'

■•^■■-

•^

BALA.

Ill

Bala Green has long been famous for its great religious
assemblies. The Methodist College is a fine building, and
may account for such great gatherings of Calvinistic Metho-
dists as assemble here. The green has accommodated as many as
20,000 people, which number to be accommodated in a place of
2,000 inhabitants would require considerable ingenuity.

While staying at Llandderf el, to which I returned from Bala,
I found the question of " dual language " to be one of consider-
able prominence. I was informed that the law compels the
children in the public schools to be taught first the three English
branches — reading, writing and arithmetic- and after that an
hour is devoted to lessons in Welsh. The older people assured
me they would not give up their national language, except
with their lives, while the young, as a matter of personal
advantage, in order to succeed in the race with English com-
petitors in all departments of trade and business, would be
compelled to know English, and speak it.

Before leaving, I secured some of the heather and sprigs of
evergreens from the royal arch and railway station as a
memento of my visit, which ended with a ride up one of the
high hills on a Welsh pony. The view from the height was
truly magnificent. The scenery of the River Dee from iis rise
to Chester is surpassingly beautiful, especially through the
celebrated " Vale of Llangollen," through which I passed on
Monday to the town of that name, in time to witness the royal
reception there.

In reply to questions as to the Welsh language and the
immense, to us, unpronounceable words, and of such great length,
Mr. Jones, my host, assured me there was not a superfluous
letter, but each had its appropriate sound, and that it was
purely from our ignorance of the language such misconceptions
prevailed. Having heard the celebrated Isaac Pitman deliver
his first lectures on phonography and phonetic writing, my
early prejudices in favor of the latter shook my faith in the
statement of my worthy host.

• -'i'

■ 1'

112

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

The Vale of Llangollen

The railway from LlandJerfel to Llangollen for nearly the
whole of the way follows the course of the river. As the train
runs past Berwin, and approaches the town, the view is very
impressive. The fantastic Eglu3'seg Rocks rise on the left>
standing out boldly before them is Castell Dinas Bran, and the
line skirts the base of Brynian or Bai'ber's Hill.

The beauties of Llangollen cannot be learnt by a short stay.
For variety of form and color of hill and valley and stream, thf
Vale of Llangollen leaves indelible impressions of unsurpasseu
loveliness. The banks of the rivei' are lined with magnificent
trees, whose branches dip in the water and are reflected as in
a mirror, and the numberless boats all along may be seen with
their merry parties moving leisurely in the shade of the
trees, suggesting scones of love and pleasure and genuine
enjoyment, fit subject of romance.

On the right of the railway viaduct, the vale is spanned by
one of Telford's famous aqueducts ; on the left, you look down
into green meadows Hanked by hill-sides clothed with trees, and
on the other hill-!?ide, to the no-th, is one of the innumerable
castles, which Mr. Gladstone said, a few days before, " constitute
the most striking and splendid castellated remains that are to
be found in the whole of the island."

The district is rich in historical associations of the deepest
interest. Chirk Castle was besieged more than once in the
Cromwellian wars; and going back to an earlier period, in the
Ceinog Valley, in the reign of Henry II., was fought one of the
many battles in which the Welsh struggled so bravely for
independence before they finally resigned themselves to the
English rule.

On the train an incident occurred which struck me as
indicative of the simplicity and good-nature of the Welsh
people.

The train being crowded, a handsomely-dressed lady entered
our compartment, and finding i>) seat, when the train started,
rather innocently and unceremoniously sat down on the knee

L .S

t i

<•

CARNARVON CASTLE.

&<r

pj|ypj»"

>WA«*tii*Aai(p(>i|

LLANGOLLEN.

113

of tho gentloinan next to mo. Thinkinj? the lady (aH Huch hHo
undoubtedly was) was a near relative, or, porhapH, his wife, who
joined him on the way, I was rather surpriHed when at thti
next station she got out, bidding " Good day," as if it was »k
usual custom.

Llangollen.

As the royal train from Llandderfel ha<l not arrived wher>
our train reached there, 1 had a j^ood opportunity of securing a
standing-place on the road to Hryntisylio, where Her Majesty
was to visit Sir Theodore Martin, who wrote tho life of Prince
Albert. The road was lined with Venetian masts, from which
Hags and festoons of flowers were suspendiul, the whole distance
of three miles, and with the Welsh Fusileers keeping back the
crowds which lined the road, formed a scene of great beauty.

The royal carriage was drawn by four splendid grays, with
postillions as outriders. When the procession passed, the crowd
rushed back to tho town, where immen^^o mas.sos of people
were kept back from the front of the Town Hall, where Her
Majesty was presented with an address, by strong liarricades.

After the address and reply, the royal party returned by tho
road on the other side of the river, amidst the cheers of the
multitude.

Americans, always to the front to catch a glimpse of royalty,
were there in numbers. At the left-luggage room in the station,
where hundreds of satchels had been left, there was, of course,
considerable delay and crowding, every one hurrying oft' after
the proce.ssion had passed.

One gentleman, whom I had noticed as an American, became
very impatient, and on addressing him, as a brother American,
he said, " I have been in England frequently, and never heard a
word of incivility from a railroad official, V»ut to-day I cannot
understand this want of attention."

The only wonder was that the officials could keep .so cool
with such a rush as compelled the police to close the doors of
the station, and allow only a few to enter at a time.
8

114

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Llangollen is a beautiful town, and has a very interesting
history.

The number of temperance hotels is quite striking. The two
principal public hotels are the well-known " Hand " and the
"King's Head," changed to " The Royal" after the. Queen-
when Princess Victoria — made a tour of Wales with the Duchess
of Kent, in 1832.

In the old days of coach travelling, the Holyhead mail
changed horses at the "King's Head," and on one occasion
whilst waiting, Daniel O'Connell penned the following in the
visitors' book :

'• I remember this village with very bad cheer,
Ere the ladies, God bless them, set this inn here ;
But now the traveller is sure of good fare —
Let him stay at this inn, or go to that there.
But all who can read will sure understand
How vastly superior the head's to the hand."

The " ladies " of Llangollen referred to, were two queer old
souls, who, when they were young, vowed on celibacy and a
cottage, and fulfilled their vows. They were Irish, and fled
from matrimony as from a pestilence, and found in Llangollen
a haven of rest, where for more than half a century they lived.
Their names were Lady Eleanor Butler, and Miss Ponsonby.

They were thus described by Matthews the elder, as they first
burst on his astonished vision in the Oswestry theatre: "Oh, such
curiosities ! I was nearly convulsed, I could scarcely get on for
the first ten minutes after my eye caught them. As they were
seated, there is not one point to distinguish them from men —
the dressing and powdering of the hair, their well-starched
neck-cloths ; the upper part of their habits, which they always
wear when at a dinner-party, made precisely like men's coats,
and regular beaver hats. They looked exactly like two
respectable superannuated clergymen.

Plas Newydd, where they lived, is a place of great attraction
for visitors, and contains furniture, paintings and curiosities,
accumulated all through their lifetime.

The oak carvings are especially fine, as each visitor paying a
second visit was expected to bring a piece of carved oak.

CHESTER.

116

Amongst the visitors was Lord Edward Fitzgerald, who was
concealed there after his escape from being arrested in Dublin,
in 1798, on his complicity in the Irish rebellion and the land-
ing of the French in Bantry Bay. " The ladies " were uncon-
scious of the fact that £1,000 was offered for his arrest.

The Duke of Wellington was here in 1819, and Wordsworth,
the poet, gave them great annoyance by composing a poem, in
which he called the house a " low-roofed cot."

Amongst other visitors were Madame De Genlis with the
young Mademoiselle D'Orleans, in 1771, and Sir Walter Scott,
ia 1825.

Chester.

There is no city of its size in the world whose history is so
full of historical interest as Chester.

It is the oiily city in the kingdom which has the proud
distinction of preserving its ancient walls intact. Nowhere
else in Great Britain can the visitor make the circuit of the
ramparts. These walls date from the very dawn of English
civilization.

Chester was a port when Liverpool was only a fishing village,
and it was here that our kings used to embark their troops to
scourge and devastate Ireland.

For four hundred years the Romans were in Chester, and it
is supposed that they were the builders of the celebrated
" Row.s."

In Chester Castle James II. partook of the mass during his
stay.

The Cathedral was founded in 660, and the present splendid
structure was erected in 1100 to 1135. Among the first objects
that meet the eye in entering and passing in front of the
great west window, with its magnificent coloring, are the fiags
of the 22nd Regiment, once carried to victory at the storming
of Quebec.

The carved tracery work of the choir is an exquisite example
of artistic wood work. The whole building is full of interest
and beauty.

116

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Having made the circuit of the city, on the wall and over
the gates, before breakfast, I had a splendid view of the
country and city itself, including the celebrated race-course,
where the "Chester Cup" is run for, and away to Eaton Hall,
the seat of the , Marcjuis of Westminster, and to Hawarden
Castle, the seat of the Honorable W. E. Gladstone.

On the wall is a tower, from which I copied the following
inscription, carved in stone : " King Charles stood on this tower,
September 24th, 1645, and saw his army defeated on Rowton
Moor," also " Walls flagged and repaired under Queen Anne,
1702."

The old houses, or "rows," with projecting gables, supported by
pillars resting on the ground floor, and leaving a space either for
promenade or for business purposes, are objects of great interest.
On standing to look at one of these, which was a large dry goods
establishment, the proprietor, observing my curiosity, approached
me in a very courteous manner, and invited me to examine the
premises. On inquiring why he did not carry the windows for-
ward to a line with the street, he informed me that the space in
front was used for unpacking the goods, and being completely
protected from the weather, it certainly was most convenient for
that purpose. In answer to my next inquiry, as to the probable
age of the building, I was told that it must be somewhere about
1,000 years old. I was then escorted by the proprietor, who
provided himself with a long wax taper, into the subterranean
apartments, surrounded by massive stone walls with iron
gratings, to admit light from the outside, while the inside
apartments were completely dark. Here was plenty of room
for the imagination to picture scenes of carousal, of secret plot,
of terrible fear, as siege and war, with famine and pestilence,
succeeded each other, for many centuries. The quaint old fire-
places, the nooks md corners, with sitting-rooms and dining-
rooms, now converted into storage for dry goods, all speak of
advanced civilization and prosperity, of peace and happiness,
never before enjoyed even in happy England.

Having kindly furnished me with a list of places of interest
for the next day. I took leave of Mr. T. F. Denson and his

OLI> LAMB ROW, CHESTER.

CHESTER.

117

gentlemanly and obliging son, having been informed by the
father that he had acquired the property and the business by
his own energy and industry.

I
P

•s

PLACES OF INTEREST IN CHESTER.

" God's Providence House," built in the twelfth century, now
occupied as shops.

Robert's Crypt, with stone ceilings, used as a place of worship
in 1180, now used for wine vaults.

Stanley House, occupied by the Earl of Derby in 1591,
shown to visitors by present occupant. The Earl was executed
in 1655.

Bishop Lloyd's Palace, built in the twelfth century, has on a
sign-board over the basement, "Best mild and bitter ales, London
stout and porters."

At the Grosvenor Hotel I was shown the visitors' register, in
which, up to the middle of August, 1,900 Americans had signed
as guests, the manager having kept a special list of those from
the American side of the Atlantic.

The scenery of the River Dee, Hawarden Castle, Eaton Hall,
the fine old Cathedral, and the historic walls of the city, are
the great attractions for visitors.

In the reign of the boy-king Edgar, Dunstan, Abbot of
Glastonbury Abbey, being the real king, made himself Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, and exercised such power over the
neighboring British princes and so collected them about the
king, that once, when the king held his court at Chester, and
went on the River Dee to visit the Monastery of St. John, the
eight oars of his boat were pulled by eight crowned kings and
steered by the King of England.

Many eight-oared boats are to be seen at present on the
River Dee between Chester and Eaton Hall, the palace of the
Marquis of Westminster.

118

TOUONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Eaton Hall.

The seat of the Marquis of Westminster is the resort of all
visitors to Chester.

Taking the river route, I found a small but commodious
steamer, with a neat cabin, having officers in uniform. We
passed several miles of private residences and " tea gardens,"
each having a boat landing, and the river alive with boats of
all shapes and sizes, from the canoe to the eight-oared pleasure
boat.

From the steamboat landing the walk to the Hall is very
delightful, whole herds of deer are met roaming * >ugh the
grounds, and the celebrated stud farm and stale s large

as a village, are objects of great interest.

The Hall is generally entered through the coachyard, and
for a charge of one shilling, which goes to support the Chester
Infirmary, the visitor is admitted to the Hall, and another
shilling is charged for seeing the gardens and conserva-
tories. The first apartment shown is the Duke's private
chapel, the magnificent stained-glass windows of which, with
the gilded alabaster recumbent statue of the late Duchess, and
the general richness of the interior, are beyond description.

Passing the private apartments, you are next shown the
dining-room, containing superb furniture, and magnificent
paintings by Millais, Snyder, and Rubens, also the stufied head
of a rhinoceros.

In the ante-dining-room are some of the works of the old
English masters, in the shape of family portraits.

The furniture includes the most lovely inlaid cabinets of
ivory and ebony.

The saloon, with its grand vaulted dome, spangled with
golden stars upon an azure ground, and surrounded by a great
wall painting of the Canterbury Pilgrims, is next passed
through. The ante-drawing-rooiji comes next, and is splendidly
decorated, the principal feature being bird panels.

The roof is groined and gilded, and the chimney-piece is of
carved alabaster. The drawing-room is a perfect blaze of

■

HAWARDEN CASTLE.

119

H
El

H
M

brilliant but refined color and gilding. The roof is groined,
traced by bands of color, on which sea-wort and coral are
worked. Foliage with golden fruit fills the intervening
spaces. The chimney-piece is of Carrara marble, and on
passing from the room, a beautiful marble statue, "Hush-a-Bye,
Baby," will be noticed.

The library is a fine apartment, the finish being quiet but
elegant. The mouldings of the book-shelves are all of silver
and pearl.

In the panels are some fine historical paintings by Benjamin
West; a grand organ and 10,000 volumes are included in the
contents of this splendid chamber.

In the corridor, leaving the library, we see a staircase lined
with armor and great paintings by Rubens.

The grand entrance hall is now reached. It is an apartment
of spotless purity, pnved throughout with Parian marble.
Some of the marbles employed are costly antiques, brought
from Rome and Pompeii. The walls are panelled with slabs of
Derbyshire alabaster surrounded by green Genoese marble.

The great statue in the centre of the court-yard in front
of the hall, is the bronze equestrian statue of Hugh Lupus, the
first of the Normaii Earls of Chester, the Duke's progenitor, in
the act of casting off a falcon for a flight.

The exterior of the Hall is very grand, the most conspicuous
object being the clock-tower, which contains a splendid chime
of bells.

'i-/

Hawarden Oastle.

A visit to the seat of the Right Honorable W. E. Gladstone,
M.P., concluded my visit to Chester.

The Castle itself is invisible from any point, on account of
the thickness of the trees with which it is surrounded, until
you come upon it.

By taking a train for the Sandycroft Station, you are brought
to within about two miles of the Castle ; the road not being
provided with a sidewalk, is not the best in England for pedes-
trianism, but the scenery around the Castle is worth the journey.

120

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

For the information of those wishing to interview Mr. Glad-
stone, I can state, on the best authority, the proper course is to
arrange preliminaries through Mrs. Gladstone, as every letter
and card passes through her hands before Mr. Gladstone sees
them, and if she does not consider the circumstances of suffi-
cient importance, he does not see them at all.

The evening before I went there Mr. Gladstone addressed
about 1,000 persons on the lawn, including his own tenantry.

I received a polite acknowledgment of the receipt of
" Toronto ' Called Back ' " from Mr. Herbert Gladstone, who is
<:onstantly in attendance on his father.

Belfast.

The new Express line of steamers from Liverpool to Belfast
is in every respect comfortable and convenient, furnished with
electric lights and bells, and all modern improvements.

Passengers are furnished with an excellent supper, and the
sleeping berths are all that can be desired.

The passage by the Optic was a very pleasant one, occupying
•about twelve hours.

The splendid stone quays at Belfast afford the greatest
facilities for landing freight and passengers, while the long
range of fire-proof freight sheds, which line the whole frontage,
and on which outward and inward freight for each steamship
company is stored, show a spirit of enterprise and design
commensurate with the great trade of this city, which is worthy
of imitation. I believe these were built and are owned by the
city, and let to the diftierent steamship companies.

' During my stay with kind friends, I had the happiness of
enjoying a situation of extreme loveliness and suburban beauty.
From Ulswater Terrace, Cave Hill Road, an uninterrupted viow
of Cave Hill is obtained. Along the north shore of the lough
the land slopes up from the water, reaching in the Cave Hill,
which forms a very prominent object of the landscape, an
elevation of over 1,100 feet In Ihis direction are many of the
splendid houses of the rich Belfast merchants. The Reservoir
Park lies between Cave Hill Road and Cave Hill.

■sss

• m:

■ y

BELFAST.

121

■

In some respects, at least, Belfast approaches nearest to
Toronto of any city with which I am acquainted. The popula-
tion is about the same, and it will be interesting to witness the
comparative progress of both in the future. In the number of
colleges and churches there is also some similarity.

While the wholesale trade of Toronto is much more extensive,
yet in the great manufacturing interests of the linen trade, and
also of ship-building, Belfast is away ahead of all competitors,
the Clyde ship-building alone excepted. In this trade in Belfast
about 13,000 men are employed.

In linen manufactures, Belfast has an advantage over any of
the English branches, especially in her trade with the United
States, where her goods are a necessity, and practically control
the market, as there is no competition with domestic goods.

My frequent visits to the immense linen manufactories
having made them familiar in both spinning and weaving, I
availed myself of only one offer to inspect the Broadway
Spinning Company's works, which, although not the most
extensive, are on a magnificent scale.

The whole system is perfect and was fully explained by my
young friend, Mr. Joseph Hall, of Montreal, who is studying
the whole system scientifically and practically.

The leading line in this establishment is Damasks, and the
elaboration of the patterns in design and workmanship is most
complicated and most beautiful.

Here any design for army or navy, for steamships or rail-
ways, for royal households, as well as peasant cottages, is
produced to order, or for general sale and shipment to every
part of the world.

In one room are six hundred looms engaged in this branch
alone, while in other apartments may be seen the yarn in every
stage preparing for the looms.

Belfast is clean and free from smoke, the streets are well
laid out and contain handsome municipal buildings, churches,
colleges, shops and private houses.

Since my last visit Royal Avenue has been built, which forms
a continuation of Donegal Place, and adds greatly to the impos-
ing appearance of that part of the town.

122

TOBONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Such buildings as the Custom House, the Town Hall, the new
Post Office, the Banks and the Albert Memorial, are an orna-
ment to any city.

Handsome bridges cross the Lagan.

I had the pleasure of supplying the Library at the Linen
Hall, the Chamber of Commerce, the Royal Avenue and Terry's
Hotels, with copies of " Toronto ' Called Back/ " and have
received kind acknowledgments.

As an incident, I may mention that I was on my way to
present a copy to the Queen's Hotel, but noticing the Stars
and Stripes floating aloft, I inquired what that flag meant, and
was informed that it was in honor of some Americans who
were staying there. I did not leave a copy of my book.

I am indebted to Mr. Henderson, of the Belfast News Letter,
for the following kindly notice : —

Toronto has found a highly appreciative historian in Mr.
C. C. Taylor. In the handsome volume before us, the appear-
ance of which indicates in an emphatic way the enterprise and
attainments of the Canadian publistiers, the marvellous
progress made by the Queen City of the Dominion is recorded
in that plain, matter-of-fact style which should be inseparable
from every work of the same character. It is in his account
of the advance of the city, where he has lived for over forty
years, that Mr. Taylor can claim the consideration of the
reader.

He has watched in the most appreciative spirit the various
events that have made Toronto what it is to-day, and it is
worthy of remark, that he is strongly of the belief that the
introduction of a protective tariff has contributed largely to
the position which the city occupies.

Not only were local industries stimulated to a great extent,
but the imports from Great Britain increased at the sacrifice of
those of the United States.

The opinion of Mr. Taylor on this matter is undoubtedly
valuable. His testimony is not that of a casual observer, but
of an expert.

There are, indeed, few cities in the colonies that have
become so transformed as Tdronto, in the coiirye of less than
half a century. Contrasted with its present appearance, the
account of the place forty-two years ago, given in this volume,
appears almost incredible. It is a city of which Mr. Taylor, as
well as any inhabitant of the Dominion, may justly feel proud.

CLANDEBOTE.

123

Olandeboye.

I felt that it would be losing a good opportunity if, on the
return of Lord Dufferin from India, under his new title of the
Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, and before his departure for
Rome, I did not pay the respects of a Torontonian to one
whose memory is still fresh amongst us.

Having selected a beautiful morning, I therefore set out on
this pleasant excursion, an account of which has already
appeared in the Evening Telegram, the Christian Guardian
and Sentinel of this city, as follows : —

Passing over Queen Street bridge, Belfast, and taking the
train for Helen's Bay, from the County Down station, you are
placed on the direct road to Olandeboye, the seat of the Marquis
of Dufferin. On the way you pass the building yards and
docks of Messrs. Harland &; Wolff, the celebrated ship-builders,
who are now finishing the two hundred and tenth steamer
turned out by the firm. The great steamer Majestic, twin ship
of the Teutonic, lies at, the quay receiving her finishing
touches. Those knowing Belfast will have an idea of her size
from the fact that she is the length of Donegal Place. Messrs.
Harland & Wolff employ from 6,000 to 7,000 hands. The four
picturesque stations passed on the way to Helen's Bay are
Deautifully kept, the name of each being formed in flowers and
surrounded with ivy and other evergreens, and in the vicinity
of each are splendid mansions, occupied by the wealthy manu-
facturers of this splendid and prosperous city. The view across
the " lough " on the opposite side is most charming. The
beautiful verdure of the fields and woods, the whole landscape
dotted with white houses, and here and there a splendid resi-
dence in park-like grounds, form a picture of beauty and
prosperity seldom surpassed. Arriving at Helen's Bay, you are
directed to take the public road for Olandeboye. This road
leads through the charming village of Orawfordburne, called
after Mr. Orawford, ex-M.P., whose seat is close by and well
worthy of a visit. The avenue is entered from the public road
through gates, which are kept by a keeper who is also post-
master, no doubt the post-office being for the accommodation of
Lord Dufferin. The entrance to Olandeboye House is flanked
on every side by high walls entirely covered with ivy, while

124

TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION.

of every description,
being the principal

the grounds abound with evergreens
magnificent laurels, hollies and yews
varieties.

Feeling confident that a Canadian would be well received by
his Lordship, my first object was to ascertain whether he was
at home, and this I found by inquiring of a young gentleman
who was superintending the hauling in of a ponderous bell,
which completely blocked the entrance, and which a number of
workmen were placing with another in the grand entrance hall.
The young gentleman referred to, as he afterwards himself told
me, was Lord Terence Blackwood, the second son of the Marquis.
The bells had just arrived from India along with an immense
number of curiosities, which are to find a place in the already
large museum, collected in various parts of the world.

A person who was assisting in the " hauling " I found to be
the house steward and valet, who has travelled with the
Marquis all over the world. He, on finding I was from Toronto,
spoke in the highest terms of the pleasures he enjoyed in our
city. On handing my card to a footman he said it was very
improbable that his Lordship would be able to see me on
account of the pressure of private business, but was sure the
secretary would come down. However, having delivered the
card, the footman brought word that his Lordship would come
down to receive me, and immediately I was greeted with a
welcome of which any Canadian or Torontonian might feel
proud, showing, as it did, the place Canada holds in his
memory.

Proceeding up the grand staircase, surrounded on every side
by objects of interest and beauty, I was shown into the magnifi-
cent reception room, where in the most cordial manner, before
a pleasant fire, we conversed on Canada and Toronto, his Lord-
ship speaking in the highest terms of Lord Lansdowne, while I'
related the events of the days when a certain Irish member of
Parliament spoke in the Queen's Park in no complimentary
terms of the Marquis as a landlord. His Lordship spoke of the
great progress of Toronto, hut when I mentioned the fact that
while the great and growing city of Belfast had added 87,000
to her population in twenty years, Toronto had added to hers
90,000 in eight years, he was completely surprised, no doubt his
absence in India havinor caused hini to lose track of our actual

progress. Having shown me his

magnificent
the terrace

library
to show

and
the

drawing-room, he took me out on
beautiful grounds and splendid view.
Walking through the grounds and returning to the main

CLANDEBOTK

126

entrance, the curios and relics from all countries were pointed
out — sculptures and hieroglyphics from Egypt, brass guns iconx
Burmah and India, bears from Russia, Pagan deities from
British Columbia, forming a most interesting collection, impos-
sible to enumerate. His Lordship then pointed particularly to
the Canadian specimens, two rows of our curling stones flank-
ing the outer stairway. Apologizing for having to leave me
and with a hearty shake of the hand, he requested Lord
Terence to order a car and servant to drive me through the
demesne to Helen's Tower, which he informed lue he had built
in memory of his mother.

While waiting for the conveyance, Lord Terence, seated on
one side of a great fireplace, entertained me with some accounts
of the history of the house. It was built in the time of James
II., and in it eight generations of the family have been born.

A car and splendid horse, driven by a servant in elegant
livery, appearing, and taking leave of Lord Terence, whose
manly and unaffected politeness and intelligence for a youth
of nineteen cannot be exaggerated, I was driven through a most
beautiful and romantic avenue to the foot of the tower,
which stands on the highest ground in the demesne. The
tower is built on a solid rock, and is approached on one side
by steps cut out of the rock. It is castellated, with embrasures
as windows, from which a fine view is obtained as you ascend
the colored tiles of the winding stair. On the first landing is
a room handsomely furnished, and on the table is the visitors'
book, containing the names of visitors from every land. On
another floor is the bed in which the late Lady Dufferin slept,
having the family escutcheon at the head, and on the valance
at the foot the lines beautifully embroidered in the old English
characters :

" And nightly pitch my moTinff
A day's march nearer home.

tent

From the top of the tower are seen the towns of Bangor,
Newtonards, Donaghadee, and across the lough is Carrickfergus,
with Strangford lough on the east, while out to sea you behold
vessels of all sizes and from every port, and across is the
Scottish coast.

Returning by the private avenue of six miles to the station,
the road lined with magnificent beech and other trees the
whole distance, you enter the station under a viaduct, on
which the Dufferin arms are sculptured, and by a stairway
through a tower built by himself, and at once perceive that the

i ^

;

126

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Marquis is the lord of the place, the railway station itself having
been built after his own design, and having over it the coronet
and monoeram, " D. & A." His Lordship was entertained at a
banquet the next week, and left Clandeboye for Rome early in
October, to assume his duties as ambassador to the Court of
Italy.

In framed tablets, in gilt letters, on the wall of one of the
rooms in the tower are the following poems. The first written
by his mother. Lady Dufferin, on his twenty-first birthday.

The others, by Browning and Tennyson, are original for the
place, and not to be found in their published works.

To my dear boy on his 21st birthday, with a silver lamp : —

"FIAT LUX."

How shall I bless thee ? Human love

Is all too poor, in passionate words,
The heart aches with a sense above

All language that the lip affords ;
Therefore a symbol shall express

My love, a thing nor rare nor strange,
But yet eternal, measureless,

Knowing no shadow, and no change.
Light ! which of all the lovely shows

To our poor world of shadows given,
The fervent Prophet-voices chose

Alone as attribute of heaven !
At a most solemn pause we stand ;

From this day forth for evermore,
The weak but loving human hand

Must cease to guard thee as of yore ;
Then, as through life thy footsteps stray,

And earthly beiicons dimly shine,
Let there be light upon thy way,

And holier guidance far than mine.
Let there be light in thy clear soul,

When passion tempts or doubts assail,
When grief's dark tempests o'er thee roll

Let there be light that shall not fail.
So, angel-guarded, must thou tread

The narrow path which few may find.
And at the end, look back, nor dread

To count the vanished years behind.

CLANDEBOYE.

And pray that she whose hand doth trace
This heart- warm prayer, when life is past

May see and know the blessed face,
In God's own glorious light at last.
21st of June, 1847.

127

Lady Dufferin's name being Helen, explains the allusions in
the poems, and also the name of the tower. The first I copied
on the spot, and expected to find the others in the authors'
works, but being disappointed in this, I wrote to Lord Terence
Blackwood, who kindly sent me copies of the words.

Browning.

Who hears of Helen's Tower perchance may dream
How the Greek beauty, from the Scalar gate,
Looked on old friends unanimous in hate,
Death doomed, because of her fair countenance.

Hearts would leap otherwise at thy advance,
Lady ! to whom the tower is consecrate ;
Like hers, thy face once made all hearts elate ;
But, unlike hers, are blest by every glance.

The Tower of Hate is outworn far and strange,

A transitory shame of long ago.

It sank into the earth from which it sprang ;

But thine. Love's rock-built tower, shall know no change ;

God's self laid stable earth's foundations so.

When all the morning stara together sang.

Tennyson.

Helen's Tower, here I stand
Dominant over sea and land,
Since love built me, and I hold
Mother's love engraved in gold ;
Love is in and out of time,
I am mortal, stone and lime ;

128 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

Would my granite girth were strong
As either love to last as long,
I should wear my crown entire,
To and through the Doomsday fire.
And be seen by angel eyes
In earth's receiving Paradise.

Having a copy of " Toronto ' Called Back ' and Queen's
Jubilee" with me, elegantly bound in crimson morocco, I took
the opportunity of presenting it to His Lordship, with the follow-
ing inscription on a blank leaf : —

TO
THE MOST NOBLE THE MARQUIS OF DUFFERIN AND AVA,

K.T., ETC., ETC.

In remembrance of your Lordship's residence in Canada &s
Governor- General, and of the distinguished services you
rendered the Dominion, and of your frequent visits to Toronto,
where your dignified and yet courteous demeanor and eloquent
addresses are still fresh in the minds of our citizens, this
unpretentious volume of reminiscences of the marvellous
growth and progress of our loyal Queen City of the West, is
presented by the author.

Belfast, September 13th, 1889.

On my return to Portadown, I received the following letter
from His Lordshp : —

Clandeboye, Co. Down,

September 16th, 1889.

My dear Mr. Taylor, — I have looked through your interest-
ing book, and am more than ever obliged to you for your kind-
ness in having given me a copy of it. Any one who takes the
trouble to note the succession of events in the rise and progress
of a great community like that of Toronto exercises a very use-
ful function, and with the lapse of time the materials he has
collected and the facts he has preserved from oblivion become
more and more valuable.

Wishing you a prosperous retura to the Dominion,
Believe me, yours very truly,

(Signed) Dufperin and Ava.

BELFAST.

129

While the absence of volunteers in uniform is a noticeable
feature in Irish towns, the presence of two Highland regiments,
the 78th and 42nd, and the parade of the Scot's Qreys, gave a
bright and animated appearance to the streets of Belfast.

Constabulary barracks are to be found everywhere, and the
men remind one of the Rifles in their green uniforms.

The question of Home Rule is seldom heard in Belfast. The
hum of machinery and bustle of prosperity seemed to drown
any noise on the subject, and there appeared to be a good deal
of truth in what a gentleman in England remarked, that he
liked travelling in Ireland better than any other country, as it
was " the only one in which he heard nothing of Home Rule.'
The explanation, I think, is, that it is a question of so delicate
a nature that the sensitiveness of the people prevents its
discussion.

The physique of the men of Belfast I con.sider much superior
to that of the men of the large English cities, and feel bound
to say I think the difference is to be accounted for by the fact
of the excessive use of beer and tobacco by the latter, which
has produced a visible deterioration in the last thirty years.

From Belfast as a centre, visits to the numerous towns com-
prising the seat of the great linen manufactures are specially
interesting. The appearance of the growing flax, with its
pretty blue flower, is a marked feature in the scenery. There
is an appearance of thrift and prosperity everywhere. The
absence of wheat growing is quite noticeable, and the super-
abundance of hay and oats strikes a Canadian &s rather
remarkable. I was told it pays better to buy imported wheat
and use the land for other purposes, especially for grazing.
My impression was that they grew and produced more food for
the " beast " than for the " man."

A row in a boat for nine miles from Portadown to Lough
Neagh, the largest lake in the United Kingdom, discovered
such a succession of hay-stacks all along the banks of the
River Bann as seemed truly astonishing, while large scows or
barges, laden with turf or peat for fuel, met us at every turn
of this serpentine river.
9

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130

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION.

No less than five counties border on Lough Neagh — London-
derry, Tyrone, Antrim, Armagh, and Down. The water has
long been celebrated for its power of petrification. What are
sold in fairs and markets as " hones," for sharpening knives,
are said to have been originally wood, thrown into the water,
and these itinerant hawkers call them out as " Lough Neagh
hones, they went in wood and came out stones."

Portadown, with its fine railway station, being the junction
of the Belfast and Londonderry lines, is an important business
and manufacturing town, and from here, while visiting with
friends, some delightful excursions were made.

Tandragee, a few miles distant, with its castle, the seat of the
Duke of Manchester, afibrded a delightful outing on the occa-
sion of a monster picnic of the Church of " Ireland " Sunday-
schools. The novelty of the change of name from Church of
England, to which I had been accustomed, led to several reminders
on the part of my friends. Here I had the pleasure of meeting
the rector. Rev. Mr. Richardson, who showed an intimate
acquaintance with Canada and many of her clergymen.

The grounds around the castle are most charming, an especial
feature being the wonderful variety of the evergreens. Scarcely
two trees are exactly alike, the rarest specimens of fir
and lai?h, mixed with copper beeches, hollies and laurels, being
extremely beautiful in their effect.

Armagh.

A visit to Armagh, on the occasion of the restoration or renova-
tion of the ancient cathedral, with a full choral service, well
repaid the time.

Armagh is one of the oldest towns in Ireland, and the seat of
the most ancient archbishopric. The town occupies the slope of
a hill, which is finely crowned by the handsome pile of the
cathedral. The Roman Catholic cathedral is also magnificently
placed on Banbrook Hill.

The narrow streets with their ancient appearance harmonize
with the great antiquity of the place. They are clean and neat,
and the whole town wears an air of prosperity and extreme
respectability.

ARMAGH.

131

Dr. Reeves, a great authority on ecclesiastical affairs, writes :
" No city is so rich in historical associations, and yet has so
little to show, and so little to tell, in the present day, as Armagh.
St. Patrick's first church is now represented by the Bank of
Ireland. The Provincial Bank comes close on St. Columba's.
St. Bride's shares its honors with a paddock. St. Peter and St.
Paul afford stabling to a modern ru8 in urbe, and St. Mary's
is lost in a dwelling house."

No city in Western Europe has been burnt or plundered more
frequently. In very ancient days it was noted for Emenia, the
seat of Ulster sovereignty, and of the Knights of the Red
Branch, and later on for the Damhliag Mor, or Great Church,
built by St. Patrick, the great school or university, and the
royal cemetery ; but except the first none of these have left
any traces.

The present cathedral in all probability stands on the site of
the stone building which St. Patrick founded, and was begun
about 1268.

It is well worth careful study, and stands upon a site that
for fourteen centuries has been consecrated to Christian
worship.

The Archbishop of Armagh is Primate of all Ireland ; and
such men as Usher, Hoadley and Robinson have held the office.

The effigies in marble of these celebrated prelates are the
chief features that retain the antique appearance of the interior,
the late improvements having tended to modernize the whole
building. The music was something superb. The choir is
composed of first-class vocalists, the original endowment for its
support dating back to the time of Charles II.

ARMAGH LIBRARY.

This priceless library contains some of the mof>t ancient, vare
and costly works of any library in the world. So great is the
antiquity of some, that the leaves are melting way beyond the
power of preservation.

Having presented Chancellor Wade with a copy of " Toronto

wmmm

182

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EmORATION.

' Called Back/ " he left a number of clergymen who attended,
the opening services, and in the kindest manner showed
me many of the most rare and valuable works, both printed
and manuscript. The early Irish style of manuscript adornment,
so elaborately executed, is the wonder of every observer. In
the Book of Armagh, now in the library of Trinity College,
Dublin, in a space scarcely measuring three-quarters of an inch
by less than half an inch in width, can be seen not fewer than
one hundred and tifty-eight interlacements of a slender ribbon
pattern, formed of white lines edged by black ones, on a black
ground.

The introduction of natural foliage in this manuscript is
another of its great peculiarities, whilst the intricate inter-
twinings of the branches is eminently characteristic of the
Celtic spirit.

The Book of Armagh contains notes in Latin and Irish on St.
Patrick's acts, a collection, styled Liber Angueli, relating to the
rights and prerogatives of the See of Armagh and the Confession
of St. Patrick.

An introduction to a number of friends, chiefly clergymen,
has made my visit to Armagh memorable.

Return to Canada.

Having secured a passage by the Polynesian, sailing from
Liverpool the 19th September, I awaited her arrival at London-
derry. As I had frequently seen the sights of that interesting
and historical city, with its walls and gates and venerable
cathedral, I prolonged my stay at Portadown as long as pos-
sible. The agent of the Allan Line informed me that I would
be safe to go by the mail train, but perfectly sure to be on time
by going to Londonderry the night before. As I was satisfied
with being " safe " I waited, and finding on arrival at the station,
in the train from Dublin a " van" on which was painted in large
letters, " Canadian Mail Van for Londonderry," I knew I was in
time.

On getting on board the tender at Londonderry, one is struck
with the magnitude of the mails by this route ; immense sacks

mtffm

RETURN TO CANADA.

133

and locked baskets seemed to be poured in till you are tired
watching the operation. The increase in the last few years
appears to be enormous.

In a shower of sleet, and with imperfect shelter, we got over
the sixteen miles to Moville, with no variety except the trading
in Irish blackthorn sticks, which were offered for sale, without
many buyers.

The splendid steamship Ethiopia, of the Anchor Line, steamed
out to sea just a little ahead of the Polynesian.

On " turning the corner," we soon found we were " on the
rolling deep," and the good old steamer on which I had travelled
twenty years before with Captain Dutton, R.N., behaved so
badly as to send a good many passengers speedily to the retire-
ment of their cabins. Any other vessel might have treated us
in a similar manner in such a sea, but as perhaps suggested by
her name, she soon was christened " Roly-poly."

Contrary to my expectations, there was not a single passenger
on board who had gone over in the Sardinian. • Nevertheless,
the company proved a very agreeable one, quite a number being
from Toronto, and others coming there for the first time.

Wm. O'Connor w&s on board' returning from Australia.

Major-General Pierce, of the East India Company's service,
with his wife, were coning from London to see a son, who was
learning farming at Orillia. Several young men were on their
way to tl Agricultural College at Guelph. Professor Smyth,
from Belfa b, was coming to assume the duties of musical pro-
fessor in a c liege at Ottawa; and Mrs. Crawford, with her two
daughters, to enter upon charge of a Ladies' College, also at
Ottawa, as principal. The usual amusements on deck in fine
weather, with music in the saloon, caused the time to pass very
agreeably, and the sight of land at Belle Isle, after the shortest
possible ocean passage, gave satisfaction to all on board, not even
the presence of immense icebergs producing any alarm or
discomfort.

The magnificent scenery of the St. Lawrence, where it narrows
above the Qulf and the Island of Anticosti, excited as usual the
admiration of all the passengers, especially those who had never
seen a great river before.

134

TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGBATION.

The sail from Quebec by daylight, only lately allowed, and
never enjoyed by the travellers on the river boats, is indeed a
great treat. The whole distance to Montreal opening up fresh
scenes of beauty and interest at every turn, was greatly enjoyed
by all on board.

The usual dispersion at Montreal soon separates most for life,
while a few have formed friendships that will last as long as
circumstances favor correspondence.

It is sincerely to be hoped that, with new and faster vessels
from Canada to Great Britain, much of the passenger traffic now
going to New York will be turned back to our own route, which
is by far the shortest, and in every way more pleasant. With
a railroad to Labrador or Cape Breton, the sea passage could be
accomplishe(^. by fast steamers, easily, in four days, and the
whole journey from Chicago to Liverpool in six days.

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