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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, ii est filmA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de geuche A droite, et de haut an bas, en prenant la nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diegremmes suivsnts illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 / Toronto "Called Back" AND EMIGRATION WITH REMINISCENCES OF A RECENT TRIP TO GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Containing an account of the visit of Her Majesty the Queen to Wales, THE Mersey Tunnel, Manchester Ship Canal, and a visit to THE Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, at Clandeboye, with a beautiful lithograph portrait of HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN AND EMPRESS also Engraved Likenesses of His Excellency Lord Stanley of Preston, Govemof General; and E. F. Clarke, Esq., M.P.P., Mayor. BY CONYNGHAM CRAWFORD TAYLOR (OP Her Ma.ik8T¥'b Cvbtoms), Author of "Toronto 'Called Back.'" TORONTO : WILLIAM BRIGGS, Publisher, METHODIST BOOK AND PUBLISHING HQUSE. 1890. Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year one thousand eight hundred and ninety, by Conynoham C. Taylor, In the Office of the Minister of Argriculture, at Ottawa. TO His Excellency Sir Frederick Arthur Stanley, Baron Stanley of Preston, G.C.B., Qovtrnor-OenercU of Canada, etc., etc As many of the reminiscences in these pages have their centre in Lancashire^ where the names of " Stanley " and " Derby'' are as familiar as " Preston " itself and having had occasion to refer to the fact of your Excellency occupying at present the distinguished position of the popular representative of Her Majesty in this Dominion^ and knowing the interest you take in all that appertains to the growth and progress of Toronto., and of Canada generally., this brief record of my recent visit to G'eat Britain and Ireland, and my humble efforts to make Toronto better known, is respectfully dedicated to your Lordship^ hy your iOyal and obedient servant, C. C. TAYLOR. 35 Grosvenor St., Toronto, September, iSgo. MIS EXCELLENCY Slf^ FREDEF^ICK ARTHUf^ STANLEY, BARON STANLEY OF PRESTON, G.C.B., GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF CANADA. « INTRODUCTORY. PREVIOUS to 1886, the commercial history of Toronto had never been written. Everything previously pub- lished was either purely topographical or political, with reminis- cences of persons and places, interesting for local information. Rev. Doctor Scadding's history is deservedly valuable in these respects, and also Doctor Mulvaney's " Toronto Past and Pre- sent," and Mr. Dent's Semi-Centennial volume. Although neither of the last was from personal knowledge of the events narrated, they have contributed to the same local description of Toronto, yet in continuous intercourse with Great Britain since 1847, 1 have never met with a copy of either of the above works in any library or public institution on the other side of the Atlantic. The general facts as to the growth of Toronto, from the time it was known as " Muddy York," have been repeated and reiterated in pamphlets, Christmas numbers of newspapers, and advertising literature of all kinds, but nothing beyond what was ephemeral, or at best only for casual reference, and, only arresting the passing notice of the readers, to be thrown aside, as of no further interest. Who has travelled amongst strange cities, and at his hotel was compelled to resort to the local history of Chicago, Buffalo, St. Paul and scores of other cities, and has not, after skimming over the leaves mechanically, felt relieved on laying them aside and flying to something more interesting and instructive, to pass the weary hours, forgetting all about the oft-repeated history, because entirely local ? Thomas Carlyle saj's, " The editor of books may understand withal that if as is said ' many kinds are permissible,' there is one kind not permissible, the kind that has nothing in it, ' le genre ennuyeux.' " wm wm VI INTRODUCTORY. Having been struck with this fact, and being constantly reminded by everything around me of the wonderful growth and progress of the city which I had witnessed during forty years, especially in the importing trade, and the development of its manufacturing industries, and everything suggesting the contrast between 1886 and 1847, I commenced to write for private use only, my reminiscences of my first impressions of Toronto, then my experience as a wholesale importer, and in " calling back " from memory the history of trade, I found that I was in possession of some facts, that were not generally known and certainly had never been recorded, amongst which were the following : — The commencement of commercial travelling, having been the first to undertake the enterprise, before any railroads were thought of, and having taken orders for our own firm from Quebec to Windsor, thus making Toronto, even then, a distribut- ing centre, I had the pleasure of inducing buyers from as far east as Brockville to visit Toronto for spring purchases for the first time. The want of a good hotel being felt by the merchants, we were amongst the first to take debentures in the Rossin House, and subsequently to sell to Mr. Rossin at 50 per cent. loss, so as to prevent the hotel from being closed up. We were amongst the first subscribers to the mercantile agency of R. G. Dun & Co., years before Mr. Wiman became connected with it. In the same way I was amongst the first subscribers to the Gas Company, which was formed in 1 848. Having entered goods at the Custom House before any of its present stafi* were connected with it, I was familiar with its history. Nevertheless, I did not presume at first to publish what I knew of these matters, until I had ascertained that my chances of finding any assistance from my contemporaries were so slight as tu convince me that all I knew would be left in oblivion did I not put it in the hands of the printer. I waited on the late Senator McMaster and others for contir- : INTRODUCTORY. vii c* ^o raation of some important matters, such as the introduction of the bonding system through the States, when they told me that neither from memory, nor from written memoranda, could they assist me. As I had, personally, a part in ^he introduction of the bonding system, this I considered very important. The late Senator Macdonald was certainly the best qualified of any man in commercial life to write on these matters, but he had not commenced the wholesale business for some time after some of these events took place. When I showed him what I had written, he said if I did not publish it, it would be lost, as there was no one else to do so, and chiefly through his influence I consented. It may be judged from the following list of all the busine.ss men in the city who were in business in 1850, and are still living, how few had experience as importers or manufacturers to narrate the business history of that time : — In Wholesale Dry Goods there were Lewis Moffatt, Isaac Gilmour, Taylor & Stevenson ; Wholesale Grocers — J. C. Fitch, Frederick Perkins ; Retail Dry Goods — John Kay, John Eastwood, Arthur Lepper, Scott & Laidlaw, Thos. Lailey ; Druggists — W. H. Doel, Hugh Miller; Musical Instruments — S. Nordheimer; Booksellers — Thomas Maclear ; Jewellers — E. M. Morphy; Hides and Leather — James Beaty ; Boots and Shoes — Edward Dack. Not one hardware merchant or retail grocer survives who was in business in 1850. Of the whole of these the only importers who had any experience in that way are Isaac Gilmour, Esq., L. Moffatt, Esq., the writer, and his then partner, at present living at St. Leonards-on-the-Sea, England- -in the wholesale dry goods; and Frederick Perkins, Esq., and J. C. Fitch, Esq. — in the wholesale grocery trade. The fate of previous attempts at writing a history of Toronto which would prove of general interest, led me to deviate from the beaten path of local historians, and to publish something that would be readable on both sides of the Atlantic. How far I have succeeded I leave for competent critics to decide, and amongst the first I maj quote from the Evening Telegram viii INTllODUCTORY. of August (Jtli, 188G. "Tho author doos not confine his remi- niscences to Toronto. The reader is carried in fancy to other lands, and has placed before him a picture of half-forgotten events, or given pictures of men and places, with whose names or history he is more or less familiar. The book deals chiefly with Toronto, however, dwelling on its wonderful growth and piogress, especially as an importing centre, with the develop- ment of its manufacturing industries, etc. In fact, Mr. Taylor has produced a book which he might successfully defy any one to take up without finding something to interest him. Not content with telling the reader what it was in 1850, he shows what it is to-day ; and by casting a prophetic eye into the future, he shows what is in store for this city of wonderful progress, in all the useful walks of life. ' Perhaps,' he says, ' with the exception of London and Chicago, no city in the world has made such rapid strides in the march of progress. It is just such a book as a shrewd observer might produce, who had devoted the spare moments of his life to making mental photo- graphs, putting them away in the storeroom of his memory, and then bringing them out and developing them, as the photo- graphers say, for the benefit of all who like pen-pictures." This extract is from the pen of Mr. Pirie, formerly editor of the paper, and is only an extract from a long critique. This is followed by flattering notices from the Olobe, Mail, World, Evening News, Christian Guardian, Canadian Mantifadurer, Freemason, Sentinel, Irish Canadian, Monetary Tiynea, Saturday Niifht, Dominion Churchman, Em-pire, Citizen, Canadian Advance, etc., etc. A Liverpool paper says: " Through the kindness of Alderman G. F. Frankland, we have received a copy of the elegant and interesting work ' Toronto " Called Back," ' which partly historical, partly commercial and partly reminiscent, groups eflfectively the record of forty years' progressive development. As a souvenir of a city holdir lOr 'US so many attractions of the closest sociul charactei, we acknowledge the gift with our warmest €hanks, and largely endorse the sentiment of patriotism which prompted Mr. Frank- land to put on record the fact that it was presented to us on Her X INTRODUCTORY. IX Jijajesty's birthday. Of the work itself wo slml! liave inoro to say later on, inoanwhilo wecontent ourselves by retiiarking that the gifted and energetic author has, with clmrniing individu- ality, so interwoven the stiiring events and recollections of his own time with the general history of the C^ueen City, as to make the volume as personally attractive as a biography, while combining the essential elements of a corporation history. We may add, that Alderman Frankland took the opportunity, when paying his respects to Mayor Oakshott, of presenting him with a copy of the same work." A professional gentlemen of Toronto, of extensive knowledge, and who has travelled a great deal, writes : " I have read 'Toronto "Called Back'" through from cover to cover, and with more pleasure than I can tell you. I had no iden. chat the history of the town could have been made .so interesting." An Alderman of the Lancashire County Council, residing in Manchester, writes from Niagara Falls: "Enjoying a brief v'sit to Canada, I was so fortunate as to get a copy of your book. Can- ada has had an increasing interest since I read ' Toronto " Called Back," ' ai^d I may tell you it brought our party to Toronto, where it has been our guide, philosopher, and friend. We have ticked off day by day the points of interest in your live city, and thank 3'ou as strangers for the pleasure of perusal. Happy memories will many a time and oft be ' called back ' of the book and its author. Every library' in England should have it. I knew very little of Toronto before coming here, and I am sure few know more than I did. Were your book better known in England your city and country would be also." Indian and Oolonial Exhibition. In anticipation of the opening of the Indian and Colonial Exhibition in London in 1886, Mr. James Beaty, ex-M.P., and Mr. R. W. Elliot, President of the Ontario Manufacturers' Asso- ciation, addressed the City Council on behalf of the Toronto exhibitors at the exhibition. These gentlemen urged upon the Council the necessity of distributing something substantial in the shape of statistics, regarding the city's growth, commerce, X INTRODUCTORY. population, wealth, public buildings, etc. The matter was referred to a special committee, of which Aid. Saunt^ers was chairman. Having at that time in manuscript just such material as was Risked for, in preparation for my first edition, of " Toronto ' Called Back,' " and no person offering to supply the required information, I offered to give the use of my manuscript without any remuneration whatever for the required purpose, and here the first imputation of mercenary motives commenced, one alderman remarking that if they took it for nothing I would be applying afterwards for compensation. As this idea was nothing short of an insult, I made no further offer, and the whole matter fell through. It was on this occasion Aid. Frankland made the statement that there were " tons weight " of literature on Canada in Liverpool lying idle. In this statement I can fully corroborate the worthy alderman as to literature of a certain class, which I saw in bundles tied up on shelves, in quantities amounting to thousands of pamphlets, which no person saw, or cared much to read. To quote the alderman's own words, after "Toronto 'Called Back'" made its appearance, he made the amende honorable and became its warmest advocate. It>happened that very time when the whole matter of writing pamphlets and sending photographs to the exhibition fell through, that a letter appeared in the Toronto World, from an old lady in London to her daughter in Toronto, warning her to be sure and " lock the doors at night to prevent the bears from getting at the dear little children." A recent bear story from Parkdale, if circulated in England without explanation, or more correct information about that progressive section of the city, would have precisely the same effect on the readers. The "Prospectus" promised to show the "Wonderful growth and progress of the City from 1850 to 1886, especially as an Importing Centn, with the development of its Manufac- turing Industries," and "Reminiscences, extending over the four decennial periods from 1846 to ) 886, including the introdu(!tion ^ ^1 INTRODUCTORY. Zl V of the Bonding System through the United States," also "Toronto a Manufacturing City;" "Toronto an Educational Centre ; " Toronto a Musical City ; " " Toronto a Commercial Centre;" " Toronto a Liteiary City ;" "Toronto as a Railway Centre ; " " Toronto a City of Churches ; " "Toronto as a Place of Residence ; " " The Parks and Pleasure Grounds of Toronto ; " " Toronto as a Distributing Centre, from the Atlantic to the Pacific ;" " Toronto as the Queen City of the Dominion and Future Capital ;" " The Future of Toronto." In acknowledgment of the receipt of Copies of the Prospectus of " Toronto ' Called Back/ " letters were received, from v»hich the following are extracts : From His Excellency tfie Marquis of Lansdowne, Governor-General of Canada, etc., etc. Sir, — I am desired by His Excellency to acknowledge the re- ceipt of your letter of the 22nd inst., and to say that he is disposed to believe from the information with which you have supplied him, that such an account of the progress of Toronto might be given to the public with advantage, and if the work which you propose to publish is brought out. His Excellency will be glad to take copies of it. I am, sir, your obedient servant, (Signed) Melgund. ^ t From Hon. John Carting, Minister of Agriculture. Dear Sir, — I have submitted your letter, and am instructed to inform you that the Minister of Agriculture fully recognizes the importance of the work you propose to publish. Yours truly, (Signed) Douglas Brymner. From Hon. John Beverley Robinson, Lieut. -Governor of Ontario. My Dear Sir, — As your proposed publication is designed to give an accurate account of the growth of the trade of Toronto, contrasting the past with the present, I need hot say that it will greatly interest me, as it is well calculated to do many others who regard with interest all that appertains to this fast advancing city. You have it in your power from your former mercantile experience, to make your sketch of this city very valuable, and as the object which you have in view is a meri- torious one, I wish you every success, and remain, My dear sir, very truly yours, (Signed) John Beverley Robinson. xu lNT»ODUCT(1IlY, Fr„m John Macdonald, Esi/., Ex.-M.P. (Of MesHi-s. John Macdonald & Co., Wholesale Dry Goods Im- porters, Wellington and Front Streets.) My Dear Taylor, — I wish you every success with your book, and will have jjroat pleasure in being numbered amontr your subscribers. Of the many chanj^es which have taken place in Toronto during the last thirty or forty years you have been a witness ; changes every one of which has indicated wonderful advancement. It will be a great thing to have this presented in readable form as a simple matter of historic interest. This work you are well fitted to accomplish, and such a work ought to secure a wide circulation. Very truly yours, (Signed) John Macdonald. From Hon. Edward lilake, Q.C., MP. Dear Sir, — I should be very glad to purchase a copy of your history of Toronto, which will be de^'ply interesting to me, who am, I am afraid, one of its oldest inhabitants. Yours faithfully, (Signed) Edward Blake. From the Hon. Oliver Mowat, Q.C., M.P.J'. Sir, — The Attorney-General has received your letter, aiul authorizes you to put his name down as a subscriber to your Your obedient servant, - — - book. S. F. Bastedo. From the Rvjht Hon. Sir John A. Macdonald, G.C.B. Dear Sir, — I have no doubt that your work, "Toronto ' Called Back,'" from 1886 to 1847 will be valuable and inter- esting, and I must ask you to put me down as a subscriber. Yours very truly, (Signed) John A. Macdonald. The first edition made its appearance in 1886, and before the close of the Exhibition quite a number of exhibitors had ordered and distributed from ten to twenty-five copies each, amongst friends and visitors to the Exhibition. Amongst letters from exhibitors who had distributed the books, Octavius Newcombe, Esq., of this city, wrote : — • " There has been a great interest in Canada aroused in Eng- land sinde the Exhibition ; and a little knowledge of Toronto so INTIIODUCTORY. xin easily ol)taino{l through your interesting work, might be the means of bringing hundreds of tourists to Toronto, in tlie course of visiting Niagara and the St. Lawrence." The Queen's Jubilee, and "Toronto 'Called Back.'" The success of the first edition, and the great event of the Queen's Jubilee in 18S7, induced nie to is.sue a second, with the above title. Although this edition contained eiglity-five additional pages and a number of new illustrations, including a splendid lithograph of Her Majesty the Queen and Empress, executed by the Toronto Lithographing Co., no addition was made to the price of the book. Through the liberality of the Mayor and Council of that year 250 copies were ordered to be distributenald8on Song "Meet Me Once A^ain " Rev. S. Reid! Song "Annie Laurie" Miss Lindsay, Song (Comiqce) '-Nobody Knows " Mr. C. Myer-. Solo Banjo "Home, Sweet Home" Mr. E. L. Pollock. Song " Poor Thing, Poor Thing " Crtptaiu Nusli, R. A. Song "Wishes and Fishes" Mrs. Donaldson. Song "If Doughty Deeds" Rev. R. B. Barrrnl t^LEE "O Who Will O'er the Downs " , S irdiniau Choir. Chair to be taken by C. Robinson, Q.C., at 8 p.m. Marine ambulances at 10 o'clock p.m. L'ghts out at 12.30 a.m. Mr. Christopher Kobinson made an excellent chairman, and advocated the claims of the institution in a neat speech. In explanation of the number in the programme entitled " Pick Pockets " by two young ladies, one belonging to Toronto, he said that fiom the fact that he had noticed them sellinfr 6d. programmes for Is., he had no doubt their part would be a suc- cess. It might have been called " L'offertoire de I'argent," as it was simply the silver collection. The Coast of Donegal. Horn Head and Tory Island are objects of great interest to travellers by the Allan steamers. The former is a huge prom- ontory jutting out into the Atlantic, equipped with all the needful qualities to charm the eye — bold cliffs rising from 500 ;*.. 20 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. to 700 feet above the sea, caves which can only be visited by boat, and natural arches in the rocks, are all objects of great interest to the tourist. Tory Island is about eight miles from the coast, is about three miles long and one wide. At the north-western end is the fine lighthouse, the sight of whose light is so welcome at night after a voyage. As an instance of the skill of our captains, I may mention that on a former voyage after two days of foggy weather, during which no observation could be taken, when the fog lifted we were within three miles of Tory Island, entirely by " dead reckoning." The .sight of the green fields of the Emerald Isle, first obtained on the coast of Donegal, is very grateful and highly apprv<}ciated, especially by those arriving for the first time by this route, and the view continues all round past Lough Swilly and the various headlands till Lough Foyle is entered, and the beauties of the landscape become more visible as Greencastle and Moville are reached. The appearance of comfort in the clean white houses, the flocks of sheep, the green pastures and flourishing crops elicited numerous questions as to where the Irish poverty and misery prevailed. If daylight continues, the sail past the Giant's Causeway, although it must be seen properly from the land side, is most enjoyable; Rathlin Island and the Mull of Cantyre being also in view, after which the Isle of Man lies almost in the steamer's course, altogether make this route a most delightful ending to an Atlantic voyage. And now the saloon tables are covered with guide books and railway time tables, all travellers studying the routes they intend to take from Liverpool. Our arrival on Sunday morning does not hinder these arrangements, as every facility is afforded by the Customs examination, and in every other way, for passengers to pursue their journey. "While steaming up the river, the line of do jks extending for six miles, and the forest of masts are objects of general interest h LIVERPOOL. 21 A and admiration, while the arrangements for landin]L^ passengers and luggage are perfect. There i.s no bustle, no confusion. If passengers will just quietly wait while their baggage is brought out of hold and staterooms by sailors and stewards, they will find it all safely deposited in the examining room of the Customs Department. Licensed porters, with a brass badge and number, have the exclusive right to handle all the baggage, and no extortion is possible, as their fees are regulated by law. I once saw a Canadian merchant who took his son over for the first time, teaching him to be economical in the way of porter's fees, and carrying their trunks contrary to the rules, expecting to .save a shilling or two, but after examination the head porter demanded his fee all the same, much to the chagrin of the father and son. This system prevents much annoyance and extortion. Liverpool. The great landing stage at Liverpool, a magnificent triumph of skill and enterprise, affording accommodation for 20,000 persons, and facilities for landing passengers, and unloading the whole ferry service, the Irish and Scotch, as well as the coasting steamers, is also used for the landing of passengers and baggage from the tenders of the ocean steamers. This huge structure, with all its ticket offices, waiting and refreshment rooms, and living freight, rising and falling with the tide, and attached to the iron bridges by which access is gained to the street level, is always available, and by one of these bridges you are soon in the large Customs examining room. Under the nominally Free Trade system of England few questions are asked by the polite officials, the only articles dutiable being cigars, tobacco, or spirits, except reprints of English copyright books, which are very properly confiscated, as an officer said to me once on taking a copy of Harpers Magazine, " These Americans live on other people's brains." Having taken the precaution to keep in view a copy of 22 TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION. " Toronto ' Called Back,' " by which I hoped to be saved the trouble of opening five pieces of baggage, I showed the title page to the Inspector, who asked nie if that was my name. On answering in the affirmative and telling him I had no contra- band articles, he instructed the officer to pass my baggage without any examination. The latter official intjuired if the book was in the libraries of Liverpool, and on being told he could find it in several libraries and clubs, he said he must find it out and read it. The ordeal of examination being through, passengers by the great railway lines will find agents, known by gilt letters on their hat-bands, representing the different railway companies. These gentlemen never solicit business, but are always ready to answer questions and take charge of baggage for their various lines, so that there is no confusion or delay ; and if cabs are ordered, the fare is fixed by law, and the rate per mile painted legibly on each. And now scenes not witnessed for fifteen years, with some changes, are passed on my way to the Exchange Station. This is altered almost beyond recognition. The great flight of stone steps has given place to a magnificent carriage entrance direct from the street, and this is flanked by a splendid hotel and shops, while inside the station has been extended to double its former size, and your first impression is, what cleanliness, what splendid pavements — stone and asphalt, solid, enduring, perfect. All the surroundings correspond ; waiting-rooms, ticket offices, refreshment-rooms, " left-luggage" department, all indi- cated by signs, rendering inquiries unnecessary. My expectations as to attending morning church service were disappointed by the lateness of our arrival ; but with the exception of myself and the two Liverpool clergymen, all seemed bound for railway travelling, and soon, each bent on his own pursuit, was off" on the wings of steam, most for London. Being fortunate in having friends at Waterloo, the first train was taken, and I soon found myself perfectly at home in this charming suburb. Every station, especially Bootle, is a ^ LIVERPOOL. 28 ^ picture. Iron, stone, concrete, flower-beds, beauty, cleanliness, solidity, perfection. No improvement could be suggested. To the traveller whose stay in England is liniited, it is a matter of great importance how to make the most of his time ; and so, with so many events of great interest transpiring, it became necessary for me to decide on my plans for nine weeks. The first important event was the marriage of H. R. H. the Prin- cess Louise of Wales to the Duke of Fife, which gave universal satisfaction to all classes of the people. On the question of the usual allowance for one of the Royal family, Mr. Gladstone distinguished himself for his large ana liberal views, and loyalty to the throne. His speech was one of his most masterly effbrts, in which he showed the comparative insignificance of the sums voted with the wealth and prosperity of a great nation- The most absorb- ing topics at this time were the tour of the Shah of Persia and the trial of Mrs. Maybrick for poisoning her husband. Having been in England during the trial of Doctor Palmer, in the celebrated Riigeley poisoning case, over thirty years ago ; and having seen the Tichborne claimaT^L at Westminster during his trial, and the immense crowds waiting around Pcdace yard, to get a glimpse of him on his way to and from the court ; and subse- quently, having been present in the court-house in Manchester when the four Fenians were sentenced to be hung ; I may say that none of these cases created greater public interest than the trial of Mrs. Maybrick. Her ladylike appearance and previous character gained for her immense and widespread sympathy. The newspapers were thrown open to correspondence on the case, and never were opinions expressed more diametrically opposite, not even in the Tichborne case, where families and friends held directly opposite opinions ; and after the sentence of death was passed these conflicting opinions continued as to whether it would be carried out, till on the 23rd day of August her sentence was commuted. It was said the ground on which the reprieve was granted was that, while there was no doubt Mrs. Maybrick had administered poison, it having been proved that Mr. Maybrick used arsenic and other poisons con< 24 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. tinually, it could not be said the poison administered by Mrs. Maybrick was the sole cause of his death, and in this way she has escaped the doom of Palmer and the Manchester Fenians, who paid the extreme penalty of the law. The next great event was the arrival of the Emperor of Germany, and the great naval review at Portsmouth. A*^! had witnessed one even on a grander scale, which is described in " Toronto ' Called Back,' " and while the temptation to witness this was very great, I decided to deny myself this gratification. The great rush of visitors to the Paris Exhibition under Dther circumstances would have induced me to join in, especi- ally to see the Eiffel Tower ; but having seen two exhibitions in Paris, which I have also described, I made up my mind to devote my time to the scattering of information about Toronto and the great Dominion, and by so doing try to enjoy as much gratification as the other attractions could aflford. My first efforts were in Liverpool, where I left for further orders 450 copies of my book in care of P. Byrne, Ersq., Ontario Emigration Agent, and in placing copies in several clubs and hotels not previously supplied. It would be a great oversight to leave Liverpool, notwith- standing a former residence there, and in the neighboring town of St. Helen's, not to investigate the great works accomplished and in progress since ray last visit. The Mersey Tunnel. Taking the opportunity of visiting Birkenhead on the invi- tation of kind friends, first by the old ferry line, I must also visit it by the wonderful Mersey tunnel. There being no external sign of any approach to this subaqueous railroad, you are directed to enter a large building on Water Street, which is the entrance. On procuring your ticket, you enter what appears to be a large waiting-room, but which is in reality a " lift." This apartment holds about one hundred passengers, and when the gates are shut you find yourself descending to the level of the railway track. Here you find a fully-equipped train, with a splendid road-bed, double-tracked, solid stone THE MERSEY TUNNEL. 25 ^ > platforin, waiting-rooms, and every convenience, with abun- dance of light and pure air. The system of pumping in air was thoroughly examined by about two hundred of the Association of American Mechanical Engineers, who had visited and inspected this great work a few days previously, and who expressed their delight and astonishment at the magnitude of the work. The passage under the river was made on thi<< occasion with tbe steamers City of Rome and City of New York at anchor overhead, and fleets of ferry and other steamers, and a little further up the river lay the Great Eastern, in course of demolition by her last purchasers, and yet it was hard to realize the fact. The whole line is as perfect as any can be built, and extends for over a mile from the first station at Birkenhead to its terminus. During the previous week His Imperial Majesty the Shah of Persia had been visiting Liverpool and Manchester. In the latter city he made a careful inspection of the proposed docks and works of the ship canal. The Shah was surprised to hear that within fifty miles of Manchester there was a population of about seven millions. The docks were sufficiently advanced to enable him to form a pretty correct idea of their formation and construction, and being conveyed by special train and in a beautifully upholstered and decorated saloon carriage, to a point opposite Weaste Church, on the Liverpool and Manchester line, His Majesty had an opportunity of seeing the vast extent of the works included in the Manchester docks. At the close of the ship canal inspection the Mayor enter- tained the members of the party, including the Persian Grand Vizier, and other dignitaries in the suite of the Shah, in the magnificent Town Hall, at luncheon. This magnificent building in Albert Square, the name given when the splendid statue of Prince Albert was placed there, would require a large space for description. An idea of its magnitude may be formed from the fact that the scaffolding, which was all erected before the building was commenced, cost £10,000 sterling. It is said to be the finest Town Hall in the world, and in the bquare in front a whole army of soldiers 26 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. ! I i The cotton mills of Manchester were subjects of special interest to the Shah. Emigration and Immigration. Every patriotic colonist will voluntarily become an emigra- tion agent. If not, it shows either dissatisfaction with the country of his adoption, or a selfish, dog-in-the-manger feeling, to deprive others of the benefits he himself enjoys. Having decided to make Toronto my home, my first attempt at pro- moting emigration was to go back to England within two years of my arrival, and one year after establishing myself in busi- ness as the youngest man who had ever ventured into the importing trade. As a result of the visit, I formed a partner- ship with Mr. James Stevenson, th .a living in London, and with a cash capital of £1,000 sterling added to my own, was, with the exception of Messrs. Bryce, McMurrich & Co., who had a connection with the Glasgow firm, the largest capital that up to that time had ever been brought bv a business firm into Toronto. On my next visit, I paid the passage of a young man in Manchester, who continued in my employment for seven years, married a wife in Toronto, and left a family of sons and daughters, who hold respectable positions in Toronto to-day, and contribute materially to the revenue of the city. Shortly after this, I was requested by a leading wholesale merchant to meet a gentleman in Belfast, and advise him as to removing to Toronto. The result of that interview was the establishment of a business in Toronto which has continued for many years, and which yielded in taxes to the city as much as $1,000 in one year. I give these as facts, not in the way of boasting, but to contradict statements as to the undesirabilitv of encouraging immigration except of the farming classes, and to show what may be done by individual effort. Toronto has been built up by men who, with a few exceptions, had nothing but their brains and muscles. I might add to these instances many others, but only give one more. A young man followed my example in coming to Canada, and settled in a neighboring EMIGRATION AND IMMIGRATION. 27 i city, with a wife and two children. The late J. G. Bowes, at that time Mayor of the city, and, like myself, in the wholesale dry goods trade, wanted a young man to join a house about to go into the dry goods trade, but having no knowledge of the business, he asked me whether I knew of a suitable person, stating at the same time that my recommendation would be sufficient. I wrote to the party ; he came to Toronto, and although none of the parties had ever seen or heard of each other, the partnership was formed, and from that circumstance has resulted a well-known firm of " brothers," engaged in large business transactions and handling large amounts of capital. The original firm is now one of the largest in the trade, with several branches. And in addition to that, the transaction was intimately connected with the establishment of the largest wholesale business in Ontario, the history of which my limits will not permit of my entering into. Besides all this, numbers of letters of introduction to us were given to young men in England, from time to time, many of whom have been induced to settle here ; the last only a few weeks ago having succeeded in find- ing employment as a clerk with the " John Doty Engine Co.," to whom I had the pleasure of showing the letter which intro- duced the young man to me. These statements confirm my introductory remarks in the first page of " Toronto ' Called Back,' " where I say : " Since the writer's first trip to Europe from this city, he has influenced a number of families to make it their home, and they, in turn, have influenced others ; and should, in the future, any capitalist, manufacturer, or any other desirable citizen of any other city or country, be induced to adopt Canada, and especially Toronto, as his future place of residence, and contribute in any way to its wealth and popula- tion, his object will be attained." Ye men who in meetings and in parks air your theories on political and municipal economy, and pander to the tastes of the ignorant to gain popularity, whose knowledge of the world is bounded by your residence on the one side and the Toronto Bay on the other, let us see your record for forty years ! What have you done to build up our great city, and what are I! I 28 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. you doing now ? There is not a man amongst you who, if he migrated to-morrow, could not be replaced by a score of a more useful class to the community. If you cannot show a good record you had better cease your opposition, and devote your energies to promote a healthy enngration, or give way to the enterprising, the unselfish, the loyal and the patriotic, who have made this " wilderness " of Toronto " blos-om as the rose." These have been the progressive, the truly liberal who, while a few croakers and grumblers have, Diogenes-like, sat in their little tubs — and some such have alwaj's, I regret to say, found their way into our City Council — have liberally promoted every enterprise, and built up our proud and beau- tiful city not only without the aid of the croakers, but in spite of their narrow ideas. Having given three years of my spare time to thepiaise and, I hope, the benefit of my adopted city, 1 felt I could not lose the opportunity of my visit to circulate the information gained by forty years' residence in Canada ; and while there were great attractions on every hand which, with less expense and much more personal gratification, I might enjoy, I decided to devote all my spare time to the object of enlightening as many as possible as to the attractions of our city, and its wonderful growth and progress, from personal knowledge. This I found to be the key to the great interest of others on the subject, as it was considered reliable. Difficulties of Emigration Agents. Never during the past fifty years has the question of emi- gration been beset with so many difficulties as it is to-day. The first great exodus of people from Ireland to America took place in 1847. After the potato famine, the depletion, then commenced, continued till the population of Ireland fell from nine millions to about five millions. While a great many died from starvation, notwithstanding the generous help and sympa- thies of England and America, yet the loss from that cause would soon^have been made up by the natural increase of the popu- lation. Of those four millions, comparatively few found their way DIFFICULTIES OF EMIGRATION AGENTS. 29 to Canada. The graves on Grosse Isle, the quarantine station, testify to the numbers who had died on the voyage, and the writer distinctly remembers the haggard and miserable appear- ance of those who reached Toronto, and yet those who survived were soon absorbed in the population. This class, both in the United States and Canada, would be classed as paupers, and numerous restrictions are imposed against their entrance amongst us, while it is an undoubted fact that from that class numbers of wealthy families in the United States have descended. Admitting the objections to any further immigration such as that referred to, not only from Ireland but from the continent of Europe, from which millions of the very scum of society were once freely welcomed to the States, the question arises, from what classes are the millions of acres in this new country to be filled up, and the resources of the country developed. It may be laid down, as a general rule, that no person who is comfortably off and well-to-do in the Old Country will expatriate himself as a matter of choice, with the exception of some who, looking away ahead and not seeing the prospect of having their family enjoying the same comforts as they now enjoy, will summon resolution to break off the tender and sacred ties of association with home and kindred, and in view of prospective advantages, make sacrifices for the present. No person can witnt^o the parting scenes at railway stations, where friends separate never more to meet in this world, as the writer has often witnessed, and even during his late visit, and not be struck with the sense of the " wrench " that must be endured by those whose circumstances compel them to emigrate, parting from all that has been sacred from childhood. "The village church among the trees, Where once the marriage vows were given, With merry peal that sweliad the breeze, Pointing with tapering ppire to heaven." These, and a thousand like associations, make the idea of breaking off all these ties a matter of serious and sad con- templation. 80 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Every person who knows anything of the question for forty or fifty years, will admit that the United States has been filled up with millions who were induced to leave home and Father- land by the most exaggerated statements of the advantages the country offered, and as all was "good fish that came into their net " at that time, it is no wonder the country filled up in a marvellous manner, while Canada still had the character of being a land of ice and snow, of wolves, bears and wild Indians. Referring to that time, a German writer said : " Several works on the United States have appeared in Germany as guides for emigrants. These books have obviously been written by parties employed by speculators, whether land or ship owners, perhaps by the American Government it.self. These works are widely circulated in pamphlet form by agents specially selected for their aptness in making ad captandiim, appeals to the masses of the people and in .spreading far and wide the most fabulous versions of Republican institutions and Republican prosperity and wealth. The happiness of each man dwelling under his own fig tree, and governed by laws of his own making, was dwelt on with due emphasis. By employing these deceptive means, the Americans induced large bodies to leave, but now suffer from the bitter consequences of their error in diverting the stream of emigration from its natural and usual course, and directing it solely to their own channel. For Germany itself the loss has been a gain — as it has been an especial boon that so many impure elements have been swept away from her shores, so many dangers removed, that threatened her prosperity in a political, religious and social point of view." The effect of this state of things was, that in 1852 the New York Tribune stated that '• on an average there were 100,000 souls in that city (about one-fourth oi the population) desirous of procuring work who were unable to obtain it." What would be said of the Ontario or Dominion Governments to-day if they, by imprudence and recklessness, caused such a state of things ? The danger is now that we may «rr on the other extreme, and not use every legitimate effort to promote emigration when the circumstances of the DIFFICULTIES OF EMIGRATION AGENTS. 31 Old Country, especially of Great Britain and Ireland, render the effort a hundred-l'old more difficult than before the present time of unexampled prosperity at home. You are now met everywhere with the statement : " Tha class of people we can spare you will not take, and the classes you want we cannot spare." Any statements that either the Provincial or Dominion Gov- ernments, or the Steamship Companies, are using undue influence to bring undesirable emigmnts from Europe are both false and malicious. Mr. Dyke, of Liverpool, the Dominion agent, said not long ago, " It is hard to induce people to go that do not want to go." The first thing to do is to inform the people who think of emigrating as to the prospects the country affords and the advantages offered by her great resources to the industrious workman and the rich capitalist alike, as one will naturally follow the other. As all such persons wishing for information go direct to the public libraries, it is of the greatest importance that these should be furnished with facts and figures in which implicit confidence can be placed, and at the same time remove all ignorance and prejudice that may have previously existed. With this information, the next step will be to the Emigration Agent for details as to locality, preparation for the journey, and all other necessary instructions. In this waj' alone can the tide be turned towards our own shores, and the capital now being invested in foreign countries find a loilgment in this great Dominion. I do not hesitate to say it would pay any one individual, having large interests in Toronto, to distribute suitable literature in Great Britain to the extent of thousands of dollars, while for the city the problem of the smallest amount of taxes on the largest assessment, by so doing, would soon find a solution. There is a class of persons, who may be regarded as paupers in pocket, and adventurers in spirit, who, on leaving home to " push their fortune," are perfectly indifferent as to what part of America they come to, and probably do not know any distinc- tion between Canada and the United States. This class does not appear to meet with much favor at present. 82 TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION. As you rise higher in the scale of intelligence and approach the class who have means, and think their capital would be better employed in Canada than the United States, you must oifer them such reliable information as will enable them to compare and weigh, and study such facts and figures as will convince their judgment and lead them to a wise decision. Such persons will seek out suitable literature, in the shape of books from libraries and Mechanics' Institutes, take them home and at the fire-side consult with their families before deciding on a step so fraught with importance, and involving, as it does, the future well-being of the whole family. These better classes, whether of farmers, skilled artisans, or capitalists, are naturally the most desirable, and, at the same time, the most diflBcult to obtain, and here my patriotism became enough of an inspiration as to lead me to offer such information as I knew I possessed, and which no one from Toronto was at all likely to give from personal knowledge, so that the announce- ment of my subject of " Forty j'ears in Toronto, Canada ;" its njarvelloiis growth and progress, with the development of its manufacturing industries, illustrated with railway, geological, and other maps, showing the great Dominion from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans, with Toronto as the " Half-way House " between England and China, Japan, and Australia, on the line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, the great inter-oceanic high- way, connecting the British Empire, seemed to attract attention, and secured extensive reports through the press. If any person doubts my patriotism, I have only to say I undertook this work at a sacrifice of much time and pleasure, as well as money. That while I have paid tens of thousands of dollars into the city treasury, I have never received one dollar of favor during forty-two years, and do not expect any profit from the time and labor expended during my leisure hours, for the past four years. Those who have read my book will find all this already stated. On the voyage over, I took the opportunity of conversing DIFFICULTIES OF EMIGRATION AGENTS. 3S \ with a number of the steerap^e passengers, to find out their reasons for returning to the Old Country. One old Yorkshire- man, who had lived in Winnipeg, told me that he could not endure the cold in winter, and was returning to Australia^ where he had lived before. Another, a pale-faced, consumptive looking man, said he had lived in Montreal, was a chair-maker by trade, but as chairs were nearly all made by machinery in Canada, could get better wages for liand-made work in England, moreover, he had turned his attention more to " working for the Lord," which he explained by saying he belonged to the Salvation Army. One said he was going home for a wife, but I found the great bulk were going over for the trip, and some were bound for the Paris Exhibition, with the intention of returning to Canada. Through the kindness of the Ontario and Dominion Govern* mentsand the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, I provided myself with maps of the Dominion, geological maps and all trade and navigation returns ; statistics relating especially to the trade of Toronto, maps of the city, views of public build- ings, etc. With all these helps for illustration, and backed up by the fact of forty years' residence — and above all, that I repre- sented no emigration agency, political party, or government — my introduction through my book secured for me everywhere the most attentive hearing, and led to the numerous interviews with members of the press. Nor (lid I intend to press iipon these gentlemen any argu- ment in favor of Protection versus Free Trade, but simply to give facts as to the wonderful growth and progress of Toronto and Canada, and the development of her manufacturing indus- tries, as my book professes to give. As was to be expected, this great prosperiti' was attributed to other causes, such as the settlement of the North-West, and the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway, but through all no enemies were made ; nearly all being Free Traders, the most I could do was to beg that Canada be excused by her rich parents if she appeared to act in any unfriendly manner as to her tariff regulations, on the ground that it was not from antagonism to 3 34 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. the Mother Country, but as protection against a hostile nei<>hbor, they had been framed. Notwithstanding this precaution, it was impossible to exclude the tariff question from the discus* sion of emigration, interwoven as the Free Trade principle is with the whole fibre of Lancashire and Yorkshire interests, and the attempts of the " Fair Trade " party, with Mr. C. H. Hibbert, Mayor of Chorley, as the moving spirit in the Man- chester Chamber of Commerce, and with whom I have still a pleasant correspondence, the Free Trade feeling predomin- ates to such an extent that both parties, Conservative and Liberal, are united on the question. Mr. Philips, editor of the Manchester Examiner and Times, whom I reminded of the change in the politics of his paper, said: "Ye.s, we are Liberal-Unionists now, but as much in favor of Free Trade as ever," and as my correspondence will show our discussion on the subject I need not further refer to it here. The Secretary of the Chamber of Commerce, Mr. Elijah Helm, said to me : " The plunder and robbery of the feudal barons of England were not to be compared for infamy with the robbery of the people by the United States Government in taking customs revenue of sixty per cent, out of the pockets of the people." My object was to give such information as might lead to turn the tide of capital from the United States, which to the great bulk of the people " America " means, almost ignoring the exis- tence of Canada as a field for the investment of capital, and to .show Toronto as the great centre for investors in which to decide as to their destination amongst our great mineral and agricultural districts where to choose, and that Toronto was the greatest commercial centre in the greatest province of this great Dominion, and whether as tourists, travellers, capitalists or manufacturers seeking investments, or retired military, profes- sional, sporting or business men seeking a future home, Toronto possessed every attraction that could be desired for the present and the brightest prospects for the futujre. / And with these views, I .selected the centre of the most populous, as the :ii)st wealthy, district of England, or for that MANCHESTER. 35 matter, in the world. The district within a radius of forty miles around Manchester, contains a population of over seven millions ; and one newspaper alone, which reported all I had to say, has a circulation in 250 towns and villages. Travelling from Liverpool by the old familiar route through Wigan, and in sight of my old place of residence, indicated by the black cloud perpetually hovering over St. Helen's, with its great plate glass works, its smelting furnaces, chemical works, and the immense manufactory of Beecham's Pills, I soon found myself at the beautiful residence of friends at Heaton Grove, near Bury, and just nine miles from Manchester, with trains by four different routes every few minutes. I was in the very heart of the manufacturing district of Lancashire, and here I made the centre of my future excursions amongst towns already familiar from previous residence. Being fully alive to the touchiness of all Lancashire people on the question of Free Trade, and their natural objection to our policy of Protection, I knew I should have to guide my ways with discretion ; and if I expressed my opinions freely, I would be literally " bearding the lion in his den." I leave to my readers to judge as to my actions and words. To meet the leading men of every branch of trade, one of the first places to visit is the Manchester Exchange. Manchester. The Manchester Royal Exchange is undoubtedly the greatest emporium of commerce in the world, and the hall is the largest ever constructed and used for purely commercial purposes. The capital invested in the building is £800,000 (Si, 500,000). It is a vast and noble building, constructed in the Italian style of architecture. The main entrance is approached by steps to the height of fifteen feet above the street level, thence leading through a magnificent portico containing four hundred and sixty square feet, which is inclosed within twelve massive stone pillars, about sixty feet in height. At the north-east end of the building there is a stately tower one hundred and eighty feet high, and containing a fine clock. Above us the roof is 36 TOUONTO "CALLKD BACK" AND EMIGRATION. crowned by three great domes, panelled with stained glass, the central one reaching to the unusual altitude of one hundred and twenty-live feet from the floor level, those on either side to forty-five and sixty feet respectively. Aroiind is an unob- structed area of forty thousand square feet, consisting of. a vast nave, flanked on either side with Corinthian colunms of Irish red marble and three spacious aisles, or arcades. At the further end of the building, about thirty-five feet above the floor level, there is an ornamental semicircular balcony, into which the Master of the Exchange escorts distinguished visitors, in order that they may witness the extraordinary sight pre- sented at the time of " High 'Change." Extending down the whole of the left wing, and some fifteen feet above the floor level, there is a commodious reading gallery, framed and enclosed from floor to roof with glass panels, which looks into and commands a view of the hall below ; and it is from this gallery that the best observations can be made, and where the babel of noise is so hushed that you might almost suppose you were in a separate building. This reading-room is supplied with newspapers from all parts of the world, and one hundred and six magazines of monthly issue are always on »/!i». tables. Ranging ulong both sides of the building are h series of " drums," containing latest telegrams, latest commercial, political and general information from all parts of the world, latest quotations in general produce, iron, corn, and copper imports anil exports, and reports from all foreign exchanges. There are twenty telephones and a telegraph office, while high above the main entrance doors are to be seen, in large letters, the opening price of " consols," the " bank rate" of the day, and the opening and closing " estimate " of the total sales of cotton at Liverpool during the day. For the purpose of general observation, let us enter the Exchange at about half-past one to two o'clock in the afternoon, along with the hurried and impetuous multitude, who are now rapidly flowing into the building, and by two o'clock we may find ourselves in an assemblage of between six and seven thousand persons, all moving about and transacting MANCHESTER. 37 business, without any visible medium beyond the ceaseless hum and roar of human voices. There is not the gesticulation and facial contortion of the Paris Bourse, or the frenzied excitement witnessed in Wall Street, New York, but there is a suppressed intensity and earnestness of purpose visible in every face. Here are buyers from Greece, Turkey, India, and Australia, the transactions being on an enormous scale. Hundreds of thousands of pieces of shirting for Calcutta have been ordered in the morning, the goods sold there, and the order repeated five times by telegraph in one day. Here are the agents for the sale of raw cotton, representing Liverpool or American firms, with the buyers from all the spinning towns in the district, the town of Oldham alone using one-sixth of all the cotton produced in the world, while the town of Blackburn is the largest cotton manufacturing town in the world. These spinners and weavers of cotton are all represented. Next in order are the spinners and manufacturers of linen, silk, jute, worsted, and multitudinous mixed fabrics. These are supple- mented by the dyers, printers, finishers, and bleachers. These are again augmented by dealers in coal, iron, timber, copper, steel, and their resultants in the fofm of machinery, etc. Besides all these, there is quite a small array of agents for life, fire, and marine insurance, stock and financial brokers, dealers in agricultural and other produce, such as indigo, fiax, chemicals, drysaltery, etc., ad inJinituTn. The extent of the business transacted is something enormous, and cannot be estimated in detail. In the article of cloth, the total sales have reached to twelve million yards in one day ; and of yarn, which if reduced to singl threads, would be long enough to girdle the globe sixteen hundred times successively, or be equal to five thousand times its equatorial or polar diameter, or reach from this planet to the moon one hundred and eighty times in succession, or be equal to nearly twenty thousand times that luminary's linear diameter ; or, to continue the cqm- parison, it would be sufficient in length to reach almost half way to the sun, or be equal to over fifty times its diameter. Taking the sales of raw cotton in Liverpool at the moderate /' 88 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. total of ten thousand bales for the day (all paid for in cash), and adopting the assumption that this quantity is sold in the shape of yarn and cloth on the same day, and averaging these bales at 300 pounds each, we gHt 3,000,000 pounds of cotton; at the usual production of yarn from this quantity it amounts to 75,600,000,000 j-ards, which divided by 1,760 gives nearly 43,000,000 miles of yarn. In this great rendezvous I met gentlemen with whom I wished to converse on Canada, and as an illustration of the views generally entertained as to emigration, just give one instance of the opinion of a large manufacturer from Haalingden. He said, "We can invest one hundred million in Canada if the benefits can be shown, but we do not want to let our people go. They all have employment and good wages." On my remarking that I knew a large amount of Lancashire trade had been lost by the Protective policy of the United States, he replied, "It does not matter to us, as long as we can find a market for what we produce, and as to Protection, we defy the world. Trade has never been so good in England an it is to-day." He then invited me to visit his mills, and informed me that he had families in his employment whose aggregate wages amounted to £200 a year. The fathers got a guinea a week, and sons and daughters averaged sixteen shillings, which soon ran up to $1,000 a year, while a comfortable brick house could be got for ten pounds a year. The ordinary rent for small houses, of which there are miles of streets in these manufacturing towns, is only from six to eight pounds a year. He said, ' When you have seen my mill on Saturday, if you will come to my Sunday-school on Sunday, you shall find it difficult to tell tbo teachers from the scholars, who, although working girls, are as well dre.ssed as their teachers." And added, " At our Methodist Chapel some of these foremen opera- tives will put their sovereign on the collection plate." ■S'^ MANCHESTER SHIP CANAL. 39 Manchester Ship Canal. Sir George Head, describing a journey from Manchester to Liverpool in 1834, says, "The packet-boat in which we travelled made the journey in fourteen hours, and breakfast and dinner were provided on board at one shillino- each meal. At dinner we had a salted .sirloin of beef with a profusion of fried onions, radishes and lettuces, together with a good mild cheese. Not- withstanding the delights of the table, the voyage seemed desperately long." Just fifty-six years ago ! and the journey now is done by rail, thirty-five miles in about as many minutes, and passengers will grumble if trains are one minute late. The author, in 1835, describing the works at Runcorn, above Liverpool, says, "The canal basin, the boats on which were drawn by horses, the quays and the St. Helen's railroad, all these objects may be considered, even at the present day, as speci- mens of splendid workmanship." The boat was towed at the rate of about five miles an hour by a couple of clumsy cart horses, half the strength of one horse being continually exerted to prevent itself from being dragged into the canal by the other. The two small boys who rode one on each of these unfortunate horses exhibited an utter insensibility to that lively state of muscle which is the result of a well-tutored mouth. They whipped and kicked as if sitting across u tree, while the horses tugged and reeled, one pulling one way and the other another. In the meantime the riders, in worsted stock- ings, with thick country-made shoes, were healthy and active, jumping on and off according to their fancy, without stopping the boats or creating any delay. Sometimes they ran for a quarter of an hour together, and then they mounted in a way of their own, merely placing a foot on the chain trace and a hand on the belly girth. Each boy was about twelve years old, yet these little fellows rode every day the whole distance, one day up the other down, thirty-two miles, hot or cold, wet or dry, winter or summer. From Runcorn to Manchester, by the Duke ol Bridgewater's 40 TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION. I 1: canal, took six hours. A more circuitous route, by Leeds and Liverpool Navigation Company, took fourteen hours. Eastham, where the great ship canal starts, is on the opposite or Cheshire side of the river from Liverpool, and the end of navigation for vessels, a sand-bar across the river preventing further progress. Eastham has long been famous as a pleasure resort, and is the longest ferry trip. From New Brighton upwards there are several, including Birkenhead. The change from my last visit is indeed marvellous. The new canal is not intended for passenger traffic, hut - a means of taking ocean-going vessels with unbroken cargoes to the very heart of the great manufacturing district of Lancashire, and is an undertaking worthy of the enterprise and wealth of the great capitalists and merchant princes of England. My first view of the works was at Eastham, just where the canal will join the Mersey, and here the last completing con- nection will be made, no doubt, with all the eclat and magnifi- cent demonstrations corresponding with the consummation of so stupendous a work, and while there may be some jealousy on the part uf Liverpool people, there is too much magnanimity on the part of those great " dock owners " to mar the general enthusiasm. The first great lock was in course of construction at Eastham, anu the scene presented was one calculated to inspire wonder at the skill which designed, and the energy which is at work in the carrying out of the enterprise. The lock here will enable vessels to enter the canal whether the tide is high or low, when at full the water being level with the canal. It may be asked, what have Canadians to do with a ship canal from Liverpool to Manchester? Every day's experience shows the intimate connection which is growing stronger between all the parts of the British Empire and the tendency to closer commercial relations, and this grbat undertaking will form'' another link in th;i chain. As great Britain is destined to be the great market for the MANCHESTER SHIP CANAL. 41 .. I cereal productions of Canada, it cannot fail to interest Canadians. The opening of the Manchester ship canal will materially reduce the cost of transportation from Montreal and Quebec, and it is to be hoped even direct from Toronto without breaking bulk, to the very heart of the manufacturing districts of Lanca- shire and Yorkshire. A few figures will show the extent of this trade in " breadstuffs." In July last a party of seventy corn trierchants visited the canal, and having inspected the whole plans, signed a statement to the effect that an import of at least one half the quantity of cereals now landed at Liverpool will be carried over the .ship canal. The import of cereals into the United Kingdom in 1883 was 7,942,369 tons ; assuming that there will be a similar per- centage of increment for the ten years ending in 1893, the import will amount to 12,747,497 tons. The proportion of this calculated to arrive in Liverpool will be 1,898,200 tons, one half of which is expected to be carried by the ship canal to Manchester. Manchester will then be the nearest port to a population of over seven millions of people. The import of wheat and flour averages about 2 cwts per head, or about 700,000 tons per year for the population of the canal district. If the canal gets all this they will have a cargo of grain every day, and all the land carriage between Liverpool and Manchester entirely saved. Another advantage will accrue to the manufacturers. In a document signed by 400 cotton-spinning firms, representing 20,000,000 spindles, they say the advantages that would accrue to the cotton trade by the direct import of cotton into Man- chester, and the .saving on charges, would be so great that they think nearly all the cotton they consume would come by the canal. The annual irapoitation of cotton to Liverpool exceeds 765,000 tons. Half a million of this is consumed in the Manchester district, besides the saving in carriage to other districts in Yorkshire. , It is said that the saving to the cotton trade by the use of the canal will be £450,000 yearly. Blackburn alone saving £13,000 42 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIOUATION. on hor exports. There are Xla.OOO.OOO sterlinj]f invcvsted in the cotton trade in the town of Ohlhani, where are 10,000,000 spinrUes, consumin;^ 170 000 tons of cotton cvtiry year. B}' use of the canal, a HMhiction of (is. Mil. per ton carriage will be effeetoil, or about Xoo 000 j)er antiuui. When is adlcd to all this the retiuetion in fn>ijjfht on jifoods shipped to Oanatla, and land carria< o(»ene(i in 1S!)2, Manchester has in hand another great enterprise, which will be completed about the same time. The corporation is bringing water from the lake district to the city, a ilistance of about 100 miles. The foundation stone of the embankment at Thirhnere Lake was laid a few days ago, by Sir John Harwood, Alderman, in the presence of the meml)ers of the City Council. When cojupleted it will bo possible, by means of the aqueduct, to supply the city with .'>0,000,000 gallons of water per day. But for the present only one line of pipes will be laid, which will give 10,000,000 gallons daily. The works will cost for this iirst instalment of 10,000,000 gallons, :$8.700,000, and for the ultimate full supply $20,000,000. The drainage area to be appropriated is 11,000 acres. The following statistics will doubtless be found interesting? Total length of canal, 35| miles ; minimum width of canal at bottom, 120 feet ; averagf width at water level, 172 feet ; size of largest locks, 600 x 80 ft.; size of intermediate locks, .'150 x 50 ft; area of water space for Manchester and Salford docks, 114 acres ; area of quay space, 152 acres ; length of quays, 5^ miles ; number of steam navigators, including 3 German and French, and 58 Rustin and Proctor, 96 ; large floating dredger, 1 ; locomotives, 169 ; steam cranes, 166 ; portable and other engines, 128 ; steam pumps, 187 ; waggons. 5,900 ; pile engines, 40 ; length in miles of temporary railway, 213 ; number of men and boys, 11,489; horses, 182. Visitors to^Eastham will be struck with the magnitude of the EAHTHAM. 48 locks there, wliich are now nearing completion. These locks I have been hnilt to accoininodate the lar^(!st stearnship afloat. The nU,/ of Parin (S.S.), 5M0 fe«!t in l(;nf,'th, tlie hirgest vessel now afloat, couhi ^o cornfortal)ly through. While inspecting tliene great works, I took the opportunity of speaking to several of the "navvies." On inrpjiring as to the wages they rec«jivt the commu- nity, in the opinion of one so well qualified to judge as Mr. Taylor, we have pleasure in retailing them to our readers. There is no doubt at all, said he, in reply to oUr inquiry as to his opiniqn of the value of the work advocated by the National A CANADIAN IN HOLTON. 47 Association for Promoting State Colonization, there is ample room in Canada for fifty millions of people. We want all the settlers we can get, especially those who have u little capital. Such people will get grants ol land, which will hecome a splen- did heritage for their children. The soil is most prolific, need- ing only energy, industry and sobriety. Liquor is not admitted at all into some of the settlements. In Manitoba, amongst the Indians and in the Temperance Colonization Society's district, as well as in the North-West Territories, drink is entirely prohibited, and the .settlers are prospt-riiig and getting rich. Every alternate block of one hundred and sixty acres is re.served by the Government, so as to give the adjacent settler a chance, if he desires at a future time, of adding that much by purchase to his land. Lots of these men have bought up these adjoining plots. The present popu- lation of Canada is nearly five millions, and, as I have said, there is room for ten times that number. The Canadian Pacific Railroad is three thousand miles long, and extends from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Th 3 Dominion, as well as all our Pro- vincial governments, are exceedingly careful not to encourage anything like pauper emigration. We do not, like our United States friends, take all the riff-raff we can get hold of. Govern- ment has stopped assisting emigrants, and allow emigration to take its natural course. I have seen Mr. Byrne, the Ontario Emigration Agent at Liverpool, and he rather favors taking more active measures for promoting emigration. We hear emi- gration discouraged, Mr. Taylor ? Yes, our visitor replied, there is a class of men who try to stop emigration, saying there is no more room for emigrants of the artizan and laboring classes, especially in the town^ and cities. They think more people will lead to increased competition und the bringing down of wages. Sir Charles Tupper, Bart., the ( Canadian (.Commissioner in London, advocates the emigration of a respectable class of working men. Mr. Taylor is a fair trader, but lie sees that exclusive deal- ing won't do in regard to opening out and developing the re- sources of his adopted country.and in his "Toronto 'Called Back' " says : " Never in the last forty years was there a better pros- pect for skilled or unskilled labor than presents itself at the present moment, and no better proof of this could be given than in the success of the very men who would now stay the tide of emigration by a kind of dog-in-the-manger policy. During these forty years there never was a time when such statements were not made as might have deterred these 48 TORONTO " (^ALLED RACK AND EMIGRATION. very mon or thoir forcfathors from hinding on our shores. . Are our towns and cities to C(;ase ^rowin^ ? Is our popula- tion goinj; to decrease ? Who will dare to predict such a thin^if in the face of such unparalleled progress, while the prospects of the future are even more encouraij;in;j; ?" The trades organiza- tion, however, says Mr. Taylor, iloes not attempt to influe.ice anybody against settling on land in the North-West. Poverty in Canada ? 1 have seen more poverty, Mr. Taylor assured us, in the streets of a few English towns in the last few weeks than I observed in Canada in the whol«; fifteen years since I was here before. Beggars in Canada are arrested. In Toronto we have provision made for every class of need by a charitable organization. There is no such thing as want known in the country. The only paupers are those whom wo call tramps. Families in need are visited by committees of ladies and gentlemen. Districts are mapped out, and every house is visited, and cases of need are reported on to the Board of the House of Industry. That is the only poor-house we have. Invalids and cripples are permanently lodged in the House of Industry. There are not more than eighty people of this character on an average out of 180,000 people. Casuals who say they are out of employment are taken in for one night. First of all they are bathed, and for their food and lodging they are expected to split some timber, and in ninety cases out of a hundred they do not come again. SOBER TORONTO. We had your Bishop (4' Rochester at Toronto two years ago. He stated that if j'ou in England had accomplished what we have done, closed the liquor places from seven o'clock on Saturday till six o'clock on Monday morning, he could hardly estimate the good results that would follow. At Bury, on Sunday night, as I walked from the parish church, there were crowds going into the taverns. In the church 1 could count seven women for one man. Our Toronto men go to church as well as the women. A man seen going into a tavern in Toronto on Sunday, even had he a chance, would be considered a lawless character. We have a sober city. The sending out of children to Canada, Mr. Taylor says, has been attended with the greatest success. Your street arabs could all be comfortably placed in Canada. I have the testi- mony of Mr. Owen, Dr. Barnardo's agent, who has been for his third batch this season, that they turn out tvell. Dr. Stephen- son, Miss Rye and Dr. Barnardo are exceedingly careful in i A CANADIAN IN BOLTON. 4» Dr. Burnavdo has nine ajjents making thoir selection.s. travelling among the hoys' horruss, and his testimony is that they can only find five; per cent, who are reported oh having turned out ill or have run away, and only one and a-half per cent, prove criminal.s. CANADIAN LOYAI/rV. Mr. Taylor believes the ('anadians far more loyal to the Crown than we are in the Old Oountry. They honor the Queen's Birthday as a great event, hut in Kngland he finds the people don't even know when it i.s. There is no disposition to join the United States. The feeling against annexation is growing every day. Mr. Taylor holds that the Canadians will never consent to let in American goods without tarifi". (Cana- dians having their own communication from the Atlantic to the Pacific, were the Americans to adopt retaliatory tariffs, they would only be cutting their own throats. At present a large portion of the goods go through New York THE CANADIAN TARIFF. Well, you ask about Free Trade. We have to protect our- selves against United States competition. You say England has prospered under Free Trade. Yes, but it is through the opening up of new markets. I (!HEAI' lUlEAD. What do you say about cheap bread, Mr. Taylor ? Oh, give U8 a chance of sending you breadstuffs. Give us a differential duty as against the United States. We can send all you want. They shut out your goods We wouhi be content with as low a tariff as we could possibly live upon. I think you ought to have reciprocal tarifis. If people won't havn your goods, I woulil not have theirs of a similar kind. Mr. Taylor referred us to his book for evidence of the growth of Toronto trades and manufactures, and truly the record is a wonderful one. In reference to my statement about Dr. Barnardo''^ children, I knew nothing at the time of what has been stated lately as to inlierited diseases. My visits to Bolton reminded me of having once driven from Bury nine miles to hear the late Rev. Dr. Punshon preach, when before an immense congregation he gave a sermon, " word 50 TORONTO "CALLEO HACK" AND EMIQUATION. I for word," which I had hoard a few weoks hefoie. On relating the circuinstancu to the Doctor afterwards in Toronto, he was much amused. Blackburn. The town of Hhickl)urn is the hirgest cotton manufacturing town in the world, as distinguished froni Oldham, which con- flumcH one-sixth of all the cotton produced in the world, but is noted for spinning yarn, while Blackhurn produces the cloth. The population is 120,000, about three-fourths of which is ongagoil in the cotton trade. It is said, the cause of the groat business is, that from the situa- tion of the town being chieHy in a valley, the air is favorable for weaving cotton, which is a.ssisted by a damp or m t atmos- phere. While this is true of the town itself, the *bs are on high ground and the residential streets are .so far up these hills as to be impassable for carriages, the grade is so steep. Blackburn has a park, which, for beauty of arrangement and both natural and artificial attractions, cannot be surpassed. During the cotton famine immense .sums of money were expended, for the purpose of giving employment to the people, and since that time it has steadily improved. Entering by splendid iron gates and passing the gate keeper's beautiful stcme residence, you may wander for miles, surrounded by beds of Mowers and over the softest and most verdant turf. Ascending by serpentine roadways, you pass terrace after terrace, amidst artificial lakes with swans ^^ailing majestically on the placid surface, .streams crossed by rustic bridges, and approaching the highest ground by steps cut out of the solid rock, amidst foliage of the richest, evergreens and flowering slirubs, you stand on a height from which the town is seen lying at your feet, with surrounding villages nestling in the richest pasture land ; while towards the west you get a view of the river Ribble at Lytham, the celebrated sea-side resort, close to the English Channel, and away to the great town of Preston. My first visit in Blackburn was to the' library and museum, whdre I was cordially received by Mr. Qeddes, the librarian, BLACK lUJUN. 51 since (lucuaAcd, who kindly refurred to Uk; interest taken in " Toronto ' Called Buck,' " and having seen some of the leading men of the town, and havin){ asked Mr. Councillor Oregson, a pronounced Free Trader and advanced liihijral, to act as chairman at a meeting, who having kindly consotited, I ventured to atldress a public audience for the first time in my life. Before doing 80 an interview took place which is here noticed. Fnrm the Blackburn Exprena and Slam lard ( Fair Trade), Augmt Ixt, IHS'.t. Our readers who take an interest in fiscal matters will be well repaid f( . any time expended upon it V^y a perusal of a short account of an interview with Mr. Taylor, of the Toronto Customs, which we give in another column, in which Mr. Taylor unreservedly expresses his opinion upon vexed fiscal questions. As an outsider he may be reckoned to be posted up in the game, and he unhesitatingly gives the opinion that Great Britain would be a gainer if she put an end to the present system of keeping an open market at home whilst all the markets of the world are closed against her. In any event, however, the Fair Trade policy has been the salvation of the Dominion, and that the working people have benefited by it is illustrated by one luminous fact. In 187H the number of deposi- tors in the Post Office Savings Bar\J*, but this point was reached when the United States and other countries, in order to build up their own manufactures, imposed a prohibitory tariff excluding English goods, and at tha same time took advantage of England's liberality to send their goods to England entirely free. Up to 1878 the Canadian tariff* was used for revenue purposes oidy, but when an ad valorem duty of 20 per cent, was imposed for the protection of incipient manufactures, the improvement was soon perceptible in the impulse given to manufactures, and the falling-oft* of imports from the United States, against which the protective principle was mainly directey their absence missed a great deal that was both interesting and instructive. A sur- prising amount of ignorance prevails in this country, even among educated people, as to the capabilities and resources of our own colonies, and it is, therefore, refreshing to have the opportunity of meeting with a gentleman so well qualified as Mr. Taylor is to enlighten us as to the position and prospects of our greatest colony — the Dominion of Canada. Mr. Taylor is connected with the Canadian Customs at Toronto, and speaks from a forty years' knowledge and personal experience of the country. He is at present over here on a holiday visit, and from purely disinterested motives, for he represents neither a 5 1 11 66 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Government party nor an emigration agency, is seizing the occasion to interest the people of the Old Country in the Province of Ontario and the city of Toronto as a field of emi- gration for manufacturers and capitalists. As to the aspect of the country agriculturally, he does not trouble himself beyond a passing allusion, as ample information on that part of the sub- ject has been spread far and wide by the ('olonial authorities. His claim to speak upon the matter is undoubted. As the author of "Toronto 'Called Back ' from 1888 to 1S47, and the Queen's Jubilee," a work which has run through several editions, and which has been distributed pretty freely in this country by the Toronto City Council he has vindicated his right to speak authoritatively. At any rate, that work has won for Mr. Tay- lor, in his adopted countrj', a high reputation as a pleasing writer and a keen and intelligent observer of passing events. Graphically does he narrate the marvellous progress and pros- perity of Toronto during the past forty years. In that period the population has grown from 20,000 to upwards of 180,000, having, in fact, doubled itself in the last eight years, while ihe trade and commerce of the city has advanced by leaps and bounds. Buildings of architectural pretensions have sprung up in all directions, and institutions of public utility, embracing every social and educational want, have been founded- by the public spirit, enterprise, and liberality of its inhabitants. There is unquestionably a grand future before Toronto. It is already a great railway centre, and also possesses an exceptionally ad\ antageous position as a centre of inland water communica- tion. To thob? who have never actually travelled on the Canadian lakes it is, Mr. Taylor tells us, difficult to convey a correct idea of the vastness of these inland seas. Even the figures are not so illustrative of the immense extent as simply to state, what has often been done before, that Lake Superior would contain the whole of England. This being the upper in the great chain of lakes, and Ontario the lowest, whether for business or pleasuie, the traveller can take passage on a splendid steamer and make a trip v>estward tor a thousand miles on fresh water, while he can go as far east as the Atlantic Ocean. As a central point for manufacturers, trade, literature, and tine arts, Toronto may be said to have few, if any, equals in the Dominion ; and just as the prairies of the west, and the older agricultural districts, increase in wealth and population, .so will Toronto and the other towns and cities of Canada flourish in a corresponding degree. Though the greater portion of Mr. Taylor's book deals principally with the city of Toronto, the WIGAN. 67 author never misses an opportunity to impress his reader with the grandeur of Canada as a whole. Commencing at the Atlantic sea-board, Prince Edward Island is said to be the garden of Paradise; there is Newfoundland, as large as Den- mark and Hanover; Nova Scotia, as Lirge as Switzerland ; New Brunswick, as large as Holland and Belgium; Quebec is as large as France, Ontario as large as Prussia; while in the West, British Columbia forms a splendid province on the Pacific Coast; while between Cid Canada and the Rocky Mountains, there is room for eight provinces as large as Manitoba. Lake Superior has an area of 20,000 square miles, being the largest fresh- water lake in the world. Lake Huron contains 16,000 square miles with .SO.OOO islands, Lake Ontario, the lowest of the range, on whose shore stands the metropolis of that great province, the premier province of the Dominion, is 180 miles long and 40 miles wide. Lake Erie has a circumference of 700 miles, and discharges the waters of the Upper Lakes into the Niagara river over the Falls, it is calculated at the rate of 700,000 tons every minute. The total area of the lake^i is said to be 100,000 square miles. " The Dominion," he says, "sits astride the civilized world. Its territories lie in the very track of one of the great lines of commerce of the future. On one side it commands the Pacific, on the other the Atlantic. It holds out one hand to the civilized West, and the other to the swarming and non-awakened East. The short way from China to Europe lies through Canadian territory, and thanks to Cana- dian enterprise, it is now possible to travel from England to Australia without once leaving the shelter of the British flag. In 1867 the provinces were isolated states, now they are a nation with enormous resources, a vast commerce, a well- organized military establishment, a splendid system of railway and water communication, and every quality, except population, which is required for a great and powerful state. Canadian enterprise and ambition have risen by leaps and bounds since the opening up of the magnificent territories of the North- West. For many years to come Canada need not fear to receive the influx from the Old World, or even from the more thickly settled portions of the New ; she still retains her supremacy in the fisheries and forests. The Canadian Pacific Railway has opened up a wheat field millions of acres in extent, and at a bound the Dominion' has become one of the granaries of Europe. The ranching regions will soon come to rival Texas or Queensland in cattle. Nor are the resources of the West limited to agricul- ture and pasture. Gold and almost every other metal are found 68 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. in abundance, and an inexhaustible supply of coal. With all these advantages, it will be impossible to stay the progress of this great and glorious country." Much of the industrial prosperity of the country Mr. Taylor attributes to the protective policy which was inaugurated in 1878, under which the trt^de and manufactures of the Dominion have flourished as they never did before. Mr. Taylor, however, is no bigoted Protec- tionist. He does not go the length of sa^'ing that the same fiscal policy would produce equally satisfactory results for Eng- land; but what he does say is, that as regards Canada, Protection ha.s been the making of the country. Mr. Taylor's book is to be found on the shelves of the Reference Department of the Free Library, and will repay perusal. The stereotypt^d method of book -making has not been followed in this case. The author has mapped out a path for himself, and displays a good deal of originality in his treatment of the various matters he touches upon. The style is gossipy, and as he handles many subjects that more ambitious authors would think beneath their notice, he presents to our view a picture of the country which, for vividness, could scarcely be surpassed. One thing that strikes the reader in running through its pages is the intense loyalty existing throughout the Dominion towards Her Majesty the Queen and the people of the Old Country, a fact which ought to make us proud that we have so worthy a stock to represent us and to maintain the honor and dignity of the British flag in that part of the world. LECTURE AT WIG AN. On Monday night Mr. C. C. Taylor, of Her Majesty's Customs, Toronto, Canada, delivered a lecture in the Public Hall, Wigan, on " Toronto ' Called Back,' from 1888 to 1847." Mr. Alderman Ackerley, Deputy Mayor, presided, and there were present on the platform Councillors Hilton and Percy. The Chairman, in opening the meeting, said the question of Canada and our colonies was a most important one, and he understood they would hear from a gentleman who had had a large experience of colonial life what that life was like. He understood he was desirous of bringing before them the great advantages they would have in going out to Canada, but he (the chairman) must tell him frankly he_ thought the present time was not one in which he was likely to get many recruits, because he believed that probably for the next two or three years we, in Lancashire, would have plenty of work to employ those who were willing to work. That could not always con- WIGAN. 69 tinue, and he could not disguise from himself that in this old country we were getting thick on the ground. If that was the case, it was only wise and prudent to look a little further ahead, and they would do well to consider what would happen in a few years when their children were grown up. He was afraid many of them would have considerable difficulty in placing their sons and daughters in such positions as they would wish them to have in this country, and therefore they must look abroad. In looking abroad, lie was ([uite satisfied they could not look at any place that was likely to offer as good a home to Englishmen as Canada. They could hanily realize the millions of acres in Canada only waiting to be fertilized. They heard a great deal of land hunger, and no doubt land was diffi- cult to get here, but they had only to cross the sea to Canada and thf^y could get a free grant, and be heartily received and welcomed by honest and kind Englishmen, who would only be too proud to help them to make homes for themselves. That was a very fine thing to think of, and when they had families growing up they should bear that in mind. Above all things, let him say that too much importance was placed upon mere book learning. In days gone by book learning was something out of the common, but it was no longer so. Any of them who had a sharp active lad were proud of the education he received, but now there were n)any sharp active lads of education, and they should not think there was anything wrong or derogatory in a ma i getting his living by the sweat of his brow. He thought, supposing the two men were equal, more of the man who could get his living by the labor of his hands, and as a skilled artizan, than he did of a man who was brought up to get his living as a clerk. If they had a sharp active lad, encourage him to go abroad and make a home for himself across the sea. The lecturer, in his preliminary remarks, .said the Wigan Free Library was a credit to the town. He was gratifiied to learn from their gentlemanly and courteous Librarian, that ^he Reference Library alone contained about 25,000 volumes, which included a large number of very rare and valuable books. The new catalogue was a model of neatness and arrangement and ready reference, and as he had had the pleasure of sending them a variety of reports from their Geologi- cal Survey in Ottawa, through the direction of Professor Selwyn and also from the Ontario Government, he might say it would always give him great pleasure to add further contributions which might be useful to readers th this mining and manufac- )] j 70 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. turing district. Speaking on the politics of the home country, and comparing them with those of Canada, he thought a modified form of Home Rule could safely be granted, always guarding against any attempts at separation. Home local affairs should be legislated upon as the Provincial Government and Legislature did in Canada. As he was in an atmosphere saturated with Free Trade principles and ideas, he might find himself imperceptibly impregnated with the same if he remained in Lancashire, and yet he did not see why, in the land where British fair-play is proverbial, there should exist any feeling of opposition for anything " fair," even if it should be " Fair Trade," and he certainly thought it ought at least to be an open question, as it was with his countrymen. In his frequent visits to England, he had found very few persons who had not some interest or connection with Canada, either socially, com- mercially, or personally. He had found that there existed a strong bond of sympathy between England and her most loyal colony. He might mention, before describing the Dominion of Canada and his adopted city, Toronto, that he did not represent any government party, or emigration agency, but was alone responsible for any statement he might make. His object was chiefly to inform those who had not yet taken any interest in the progress and prosperity of Canada, and especially in the premier province of Ontario, and the city of Toronto, as a field for manufacturers and capitalists, leaving the question of agri- culture to those who were so extensively circulating information as to the wonderful capabilities of the Dominion to supply Great Britain with all the productions necessary for her millions of inhabitants. He would like to correct a very erroneous impression that prevailed amongst many in this conntry, that the United States mean America, and America the United States. A short time ago, a gentleman who visited Toronto, representing the Railway Mission, on his return to England kindly sent him a copy of the paper called the Railivay Sigval, and also a calendar for 1889, giving railway statistics, in which the miles of railvay in "America" were given, and also the number of miles in "Canada," as if Canada was not in America at all, and their Yankee friends owned and monopolized the title of Americans. They, as British Americans, owning the largest share of the continent, beggfd to enter a protest against these assumptions, and hoped their English friend^ would bear the fact in mind. A simple statement of facts and figures was all he should give, leaving them to judge as to whether the prosperity of Canada and Toronto was I WIOAN. 71 attributable to their commercial policy or not. It was no small matter of encouragement that Canada was at present enjoying the presence of a Lancashire nobleman, who in a dignified and popular m%nner represents Her Majesty the Queen. The Right Hon. Lord Stanley of Preston proved already to be a tit suc- cessor to the list of illustrious men whom, since IS*?, he had seen preside over the country's destiny, from Lord Elgin, followed bv Lords Monk, Lisgar, Dufferin, Lome, and Lansdowne. His first impression of Toronto corresponded with the idea formed from a view given in the London Illustrated News. The wonder appeared to be that a small dull place should be dignified with the title of a city. To a person leaving Dublin and Liverpool, as he did in 1847, it seemed as if all the life and bustle of a business city had died out, and a dull, monotonous backwoods sort of life had taken its place. The population was then a little over 20,000, a small wholesale busines.s was done, and a little retail trade, chiefly on the credit system. There were no manufactures worth speaking of. The markets were supplied by farmers, who brought all their produce in their own waggons, and in the spring and fall everything was dreadfully flat, the state of the roads preventing travelling. The time of sleighin: was the mo> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 2.0 H* 140 1.8 Photographic Sciences Corporation ^""J^..^ 1.25 1.4 III 1.6 — — — III — ^ — 6" ► 23 WKT MAIN STRUT WnSTIR.N.Y. 145M (71*)»72-4503 i:^ # s^ 86 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. memorial, been through Temple Bar, but removed since my last visit. Here on state occasions, when the Queen entered the city, the keys were presented by the Lord Mayor, to whom they were returned at the conclusion of the formalities. Northumberland Avenue. Amongst the great improvements in the West End of London in late years the opening up of Northumberland Avenue, from Trafalgar Square to the Thames Embankment, is one of the most conspicuous. For its length, no street in the world contains so many splendid hotels. The "Grand," the "Victoria," the " Metropole," and the " Savoy " are all on a grand scale ; and the style and finish, especially of the two latter, are entirely new and beautifully elegant. The introduction of mosaics and marqueterie in floors and walls gives a richness of effect, combined with the general decorations and furnishings, altogether different from those of older hotels, either English, French, or American. The " Savoy," styled the " Hotel de Luxe " of the world, has certainly many claims to that designation. The situation nearest the river, and looking into the gardens of the Thames Embankment, makes it a veritable paradise, while the white marble and gilding of the exterior give it a mo^t palatial appearance. All these hotels are furnished with copies of "Toronto ' Called Back,' " and placed in the printed catalogues of their libraries. On presenting a copy to Mr. Hardwicke, the manager of the " Savoy," he was much interested, informing rae that he knew Toronto, having lived years ago in the house of McMaster & Company. The Colonial Institute, in which are discussed by leading statesmen from every portion of the British Empire all questions affecting the interest of the colonies, has its offices in this street. my Jity, ihey idon nue, the ains the dsh, ally and eral le of has tion .mes hite Eitial 9nto heir the Dew )r & Jing ions this ' «■ !< WESTMINSTER ABBEY. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 87 Having presented the Librarian, Mr. Boose, with a copy of " Toronto ' Called Back,' " I received an official acknowledgment with thanks, also a letter informing me that my name had been placed on the books as a visiting member of the Institute. Westminster Abbey. " That antique pile behold ! Where royal heads received the aacred gold, It gives them crowns and does their ashes keep ; There made like gods, like mortals there they sleep, Making the circle of their reign complete, These suns of empire, where they rise they set." Although having paid frequent visits to Westminster Abbey, I never had the privilege of any descriptive lecture on the tombs of the kings till this time. Takinat a king of so nmch worth." Catherine of Valois, whcnse remains had been placed in a rude tomb, in the Lady Chappl, in 1437, were 440 years afterwards, by order of Queen Victoria, deposited in the Chantry of Henry V. under the ancient altar slab of the chapel. Henry VII., who had built the magnificent cliapel called by his name, and containing the stalls of the Knights of the Bath, Edward VI., Mary, Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, Anne of Denmark, James I., Mary of Orange, mother of William III. ; Charles IF., William HI., of whom the poet Watts ha.s written for his epitaph : " Preserve, O venerable pile Inviolate thy sacred trust, To thy cold arms the British Isle, Weeping, commits her richest dust." Then followed Mary II., followed by Queen Anne, George II. and Queen Caroline. In the Poet's tlorner, so often described, .several additions have been made since my last visit, especially the beautiful white marble medallion cenotaph to John and Charles Wesley, and the splendid bust of LongfpUow, which, as a graceful tribute to American poetry, was given a conspicuous place. The Wesley monument occupies a place connecting the endless group of poets with the grand piles of monumental structures r i ■i I THE (OROXATION ( IIAIH. l I > WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 91 and effigies which surround the vast aisle, and comprise the greatest names in the world's history, of statesmen, warriors, musicians and historians, of eight centuries. Besides the kings and queens interred in the Abbey, are numbers of princes and illustrious nobility. The close of George the Third's reign witnessed the final separ- ation of royal internment from Westminster Abbey, and by a rebound of feeling, the honor of royal sepulture was restored to the Wolsey Chapel at Windsor, and another mausoleum has arisen within the bounds of the royal domain of Windsor. The renewed splendor of the chapel which contains che last remains of the House of Hanover, well continues the transition to " the father of our kings to be," the coming dynasty of Saxe-Coburg. One illustrious exile, the Duke of Montpensier, is buried in the Abbey, and close by his tomb is that of Lady Augusta Stanley, buried March 9th, 1876, followed to her grave by the tears of all ranks, from her royal mistress down to her humblest and poorest neighbors, whom .she had alike faithfully served; by the representatives of the various churclies, and of the science and literature, both of England and America, whom she delighted to gather round her, enshrined in the Abbey which she had so dearly loved and of which, for twelve bright years, she had been the glory and the charm. And beside her, in 1881, her husband. Dean Stanley, Dean of Westminster, was laid to rest. A white wreath, with an autograph letter of the Queen, is placed on Lady Stanley's grave. With Elizabeth began the tombs of Poets' Corner; with Cromwell a new impetus w^as given to the tombs of warriors and statesmen, and with William III. began the tombs of the leaders of Parliament. The first of the poets buried in the Poets' Corner was Chaucer, in the year 1400, followed by a long line of men whose effusions are as immortal as their names, including Dry- den, Shadwell, Pope, Addison, Milton, Shakespeare, Goldsmith, Gay, Prior, Cowley, Thomson, Spenser, Watts, Charles Wesley, Herbert, Campbell, Swift, Ramsey, Young, Cowper, Rogers, i I 92 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Wordsworth, Coleridge, Shelley, Keats, Thackeray, Dickens, Livingstone, etc. Here, on the occa>ion of her marriage, Mrs. Henry M. Stanley stepped aside from the bridal procession and placed on the tablet to Livingstone a wreath of white flowers, in the centre of which was a scarlet letter " L" In the Abbey every day may be seen artists sketching th3 statues and sculpture of the monuments, which are subjects of never-ending interest. The Houses of Parliament. Immediately opposite Westminster Abbey is New Palace Yard, backed by Westminster Hall and the new Houses of Parliament. They occupy the site of the palace inhabited by the ancient sovereigns of England, from early Anglo-Saxon times till Henry VIII. went to reside at Whitehall. Here they lived in security under the shadow of the great neighboring sanctuary, and one after another saw arise within the walls of their palace, those Houses of Parliament which have now swallowed up the whole. The palace was frequently enlarged and beautified, especially by William Rufus, who built the hall, by Stephen, who built the chapel, and by Henry VIII., who built the Star Cham- ber. The Star Chamber took its name from the j;ilt stars upon the ceiling. It was the terrible court in which the functions of prosecutor and judge were confounded, and where every punish- ment, except death, could be inflicted — imprisonment, pillory, branding, whipping, etc. The new Palace of Westminster, containing the Houses of Parliament, was built 1840 to 1859, trom designs by Sir Charles Barry, in the Tudor style of Henry VIII. It is twice the size of the old palace, and one of the largest Gothic buildings in the world. , The exterior is of Yorkshire limestone, and the interior of Caen stone. It has three towers, the central tower over <^ -^ WESTMINSTER PALACE. 1 THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 93 the same site as the ancient clock tower of Edward I., where the ancient " Great Tom " of Westminster for 400 years sounded the hours to the judges of England, and the Victoria tower, 75 feet square and 336 feet high, being the gateway by which the Queen approaches the House of Lords. Over the arch of the gate is the statue of the Queen supported by figures of " Justice " and " Mercy." On the south side of New Palace Yard is Westminster Hall, with its great door and window, between two square towers, and above the high gable of the roof upon which the heads of Oliver Cromwell, Ireton and Bradshaw were set up on the Restoration. It is related that Cromwell's head being embalmed, remained exposed to the atmosphere for twenty -five years, and then one stormy night it was blown down, and picked up by the sentry, who took it home and secreted it in the chimney corner, and only on his death-bed revealed where he had hidden it. His family sold the head to a person of the name of Russell, and in the same box in which it now is. It was sold to James Cox, who owned a museum, where he exhibited it, and was then sold for £230 to three men who continued the exhibition, at half-a-crown a head ; when the last of these three men died the head came into possession of three nieces. These young ladies, being nervous about keeping it in the house, asked Mr. Wilkinson, their medical man, to take care of it, and subsequently sold it to him. For the next fifteen or twenty years, Mr. Wilkinson was in the habit of showing it to all the distinguished men of the day. It is further said that the head of Cromwell still exists in the possession of Mr. H. Wilkinson, Seven Oaks, Kent. It is rather remarkable with this history existing to find a magnificent statue of the Protector, placed on a solid rock pedestal, in the greatest public thoroughfare in Manchester, just in front of the magnificent Victoria Hotel. Westminster Hall has been the scene of memorable events for the past six centuries. Here Perkin Warbeck was set & whole day in the stocks. Thomas Lovelace was pilloried and i' ! 94 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. had one of his ears cut off. Here Alexander Leighton, father of the archbishop, was not only pilloried but publicly whipped. Here Wm. Prynne (1636), for writing the " Histrio Mastrix," which was supposed to reflect on Henrietta Maria, was put in the pillory, branded on both cheeks with the letters S L (seditious libeller), and lost one of his ears. And here the Duke of Hamilton, Lord Capel, and the Earl of Holland were beheaded for the cause of Charles I, Westminster Hall, first built by William Rufus, was almost rebuilt by Richard II,, who added the noble roof of cobweble.ss beams of Irish oak, " on which spiders cannot live." The hall, which is two hundred and seventy feet long, forms a glorious vestibule to the modern Houses of Parliament. In its long existence the hall has witnessed more tragic scenes than any building in England except the Tower of London. Sir William Wallace was condemned to death here in 1305, and Sir John Oldcastle, the Wickliffite, in 1417. in 1517, three queens — Katharine of Aragon, J-!argaret of Scotland, and Mary of France — long upon their knees, " here begged panlon of Henry VIII, for four hundred and eighty men and women, and obtained their forgiveness," The Duke of Buckingham was tried here and condemned, in 1522, and on hearing his sentence, pronouncetl the touching speech which is familiar in the words of Shakespeare Here Sir Thomas More ; Fisher, Bishop of Rochester ; the Pj-otector Somerset, Sir Thomas Wyatt, Howard Duke of Norfolk, Philip Earl of Arundel, Eaii of Essex, and Earl of Southampton, were all con- demned to the block. Here sentence was passed upon the conspirators of the Gunpowder Plot, in 1606, and (m the Duke and Duchess of Somerset, for the murder of Sir Thomas Over- bury, in 1616, In the same place Charles himself appeared as a prisoner, in 1649, Then followed some most remarkable trials, including that of Lord Byron, for tiie murder of Mr, Chaworth, in 1765. The last great trial in tViu hall was'that of Warren Hastings, in 1788, Here I saw the Tichborne claimant when on his trial. The court held here has been transferred to the new Law Courts. INTERIOR OF THE IMI'KRIAL HOU.SE OF COMMONS. HJ |ii i.y sitting in a pany<;r (a l)ak«;r's Waskct), inscrilit!'! " WIm!|i yo Iwivii KiMi^lil TUi- lily louml, Yut Hiill UliH JH Tilt! Iiif;!li('ht kioiiikI." AnKiml, till! 27 U», WiHH. As tlu! Iinif^ht of tim ItiilMin;^ to thci top of tlio ciohh is four }iun^ in London. Alt)iou;,di a man can stand up witliin tin; ttall l><:nouih thu crusH, it has Immjii said of it, "A Kcilduii ({lohu ]>Iacu<1 lii({)i, with artful Hkill, SueiiiH to t}iu (linUiiit Hi({ht a ^il(lcd jiill." The original foundation of St. Paul's almoHt corre- sponds with WoHtininstor Ahboy. Ono claiuiH to be built on thu uite of the Temple of Diana and the other of Apollo, and on account of certain advantages said to bo given to one over the other, the proverb of "Robbing Peter to pay Paul " in said to have originated. Old St. Paul'H has been burnt five times. It attained its tinal magnificence when, in the thirteenth century, it was a vista of Oothic arches, seven hundred feet in length, and was crowded with monuments of illustrious men. In the north aisle, behind the tomb of John of (Jaunt, Vandyke was buried in 1041. It was in old St. Paul's that King John, in 1213, acknowledged the Hupreinacy of the Pope. In 1401, the first English martyr, William Sawtre, was stripped of all his priestly vestments in St. Paul's before being sent to the stake at Smithtield. In 1627, the Protestant Bible was publicly burnt in St. Paul's by Cardinal Wolsey. 7 •8 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. The present building was erected between the years 1675 and 1710, having taken thirty-five years to build. The first statue erected in St. Paul's was that of John Howard, then followed Dr. Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir William Jones ; these were followed by the heroes of Nelson's naval victories, and of Indian warriors and statesmen, and others too numerous to mention, amongst which we see the names of Sir Isaac Brock, Sir Ralph Abercombie, Sir John Moore, Sir Astley Cooper, Lord Nelson, and magnificent groups of the Marquis of Cornwallis, Earl Howe, Sir Henry Lawrence, Napier, Ponsonby, Duncan, Dundas, Hay, St. Vincent, Picton, and Curran. The sarcophagus of Nelson was designed and executed for Cardinal Wolsey by the famous Torregiazo, and was intended to contain the body of Henry VIII, in the tomb-house at Windsor. It encloses the coffin made from the mast of the ship L'Orient. A second huge sarcophagus of porphyry, resting on lions, is the tomb of Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington, and was laid in 1852, in the presence of fifteen thousand spectators. Dean Milman, who had been present at Nelson's funeral, read the service. Beyond the tomb of Nelson, in a chamber hung with velvet, where we see emblazoned the many orders presented to him by foreign sovereigns, is the funeral car of Wellington, modelled and constructed in six weeks, at an expense of $65,000, from the guns taken in his ditiferent campaigns. Tablet to Sir Ohristopher Wren in St. Paul's Cathedral. INSCRIPTION. SUBTUS CONDITOR HUJUS ECCLE8IA ET URBIS CONDIXOR CHRISTOPHORUS WREN )UI VIXIT ANNOS ULTRA NONAOENTA NGN 3IBI SED BOKO PUBLICO LBOTOR. " SI MONUMENTUM BfQUIRIs" CIRCUaCSFICE OBIT, 25 FEBY, ETATIS XCI. ANNO 1728. ^Sfr ^*^. ^"^-^ r^'"^^ -*^ WELLINOTON S MOXIMENT, ST. PAUL S CATHKDl! AI.. I THE GUILDHALL. 99 Having had occasion to quote the above epitaph, in " Toronto ' Called Back,' " and as there was a difference of opinion as to the word "requiris," I took the opportunity of copying the inscription in full from the tablet, over the north door. Of late years immense sums have been expended in beauti- fying St. Paul's. The chapel has had much additional orna- mentation. The celebrated paintings in the dome, representing scenes in the life of St. Paul, have been retouched ; a beautiful marble pulpit, in memory of the heroes of the Crimea, has been placed under the dome, and here the leading divines of England, on Sunday evenings, nreach to congregations of from 6,000 to 10,000 people. The yard itself has been much beautified, the removal of the railing from the west front — a portion of which has found its way to Howard Park, Toronto, and surrounds the Howard vault — and the opening of the eastern gates, where a beautiful park with flower-beds has taken the place of dreary solitude, are a great boon to citizens living amongst vast buildings of brick and stone. Here are flocks of tame pigeons fed by friendly hands of those who step aside to rest among.st the flower-beds, while the tide of traffic unceasingly flows past the south side to Ludgate Hill and Fleet Street. The Guildhall Was originally built in the time of Henry IV., 1411, and its history since that time has been the history of the city of London. Here the freedom of the city has been conferred on the greatest men the world has seen, whether as foreign potentates, distinguished men of letters, in arts, sciences and literature, statesmen, foreign ambassadors and philanthropists, travellers and philosophers ; while the statues of Pitt and Chatham, Nelson and Beckford, amongst others stand side by side with Gog and Magog, which used to bear a conspicuous part in the pageant of Lord Mayor's day, and which still keep guar'' ' l'*lr" onnrmous playthings for the children of giants," while through the vast stained glass windows streams of rm 100 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. colored \\^,\\t fall in prismatic rays upon the pavement of this hall, which is 152 feet long by 50 broad, the scene of the ujost magnificent bancjuets, with their services of solid gold, perhaps the world has ever seen. The last being on the occasion of the reception of Henry M. Stanley. Amongst the rooms adjoining the Guildhall is the Alder- men's Court, a beautiful old chamber ricldy adorned with carvings and allegorical paintings by Sir James Thornhill. The Common Council Chamber contains a tine statue of George III., by Chantry. At the east end of the chamber is an enormous picture of the siege of Gibraltar, 1782, with Lord Heathlield on horseback in the foreground, by Copley. Amongst other pictures are Alderman Boydell and Lord Nelson, by Beechy ; " The Murder of Rizzio," by Opie ; " The Death of Watt Tyler," by Northcote; 'Queen Caroline of Brunswick," by Lonsdale ; " Queen Victoria," by Hayter ; " Princess Char- lotte," by Lonsdale. From the east end of the Guildhall a staircase leads to the library. On the landing at the top are statues of Charles II. and Sir John Cutler. The handsome modern Gothic library contains a very valuable collection of books, which are free to the public, on application, to be returned when used, with the printed slip. There is no circulating department. Here I had the pleasure of presenting a copy of " Toronto 'Called Back'" to the gentlemanly librarian, who took great pains to point out to me all objects of interest, including full-length portraits of William III. and Mary II., by Vandor Vaart, and also in a room on the right, where is a valuable collection of drawings of Old London, and of New London Bridge. He then escorted nie through the interesting museum, contained in a vaulted chamber underneath, contain- ing relics of Old London dug up from time to time, chiefly Roman antiquities, in the shape of vases, urns, bottles, coins, inscriptions, etc. % On occasions of great banquets and receptions, the library is utilized as a reception and cloak-room, and at Stanley's recep- tion, was used for dancing. Since my visit the beautiful ait gallery has been opened. iJ>:.i: THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. LLOYDS. 101 Since my return I have received a handsomely engraved acknowledgment from the Library Committee of the Corpor- ation of the City of London, with thanks for the gift of " Toronto ' Called Back.' " "Lloyds." The board of underwriters known as " Lloyds," which name originated in the early transactions of the business at Lloyd's Coffee House, corner of Abchurch Lane, occupy the eastern part of the Royal Exchange. The present Exchange, built on the site of two others —the first opened by Queen Elizabeth, in 1571 — was opened bj' Prince Albert, in 1844. It is a splendid building, enclosing a large cloistered court, with a statue of Queen Victoria in the centre, while in the south-east angle is preserved the statue of Charles II., by Gibbons. The inscription on the pedestal of the figure of " Commerce," in the front of the building, is : " The earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof." " Lloyds " is the great rendezvous of ship-owners, and all who seek shipping intelligence, and through the underwriters is effected insurance on all British ships and cargoes afloat in the world. The system is so perfect of " underwriting " — that is, each broker writes the amount of risk he wishes to take under the others, and so by data gained by experience as correct as life insurance — the individual losses are reduced to a minimum, and a failure seldom or never takes place. Through the kindness of the librarian, to whom I presented a copy of " Toronto ' Called Back,' " I was shown the whole system of registration and records of ships and ship-masters, the indicators of the weather, and the record of latest intelli- gence by telegraph from every part of the world. The first book in which the greatest interest is taken every morning is the " report book," containing the latest news of shipwrecks, collisions and all incidents affecting insurance. This book is anxiously read every morning. The whole arrangements for reading, refreshments and every accommodation for captains and ship-owners are of the most 102 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. complete description. Immense books are open, each contain- ing one letter of the alphabet, in which the history of each ship is recorded up to the latest date ; and in another similar, ranging from A to Z, is the history of every captain from his appointment till his death. Here I was shown the first marine insurance policy ever issued, dated in 1631. Lloyd's universal register of British and foreign shipping contains, as far as possible, particulars of every sea-going vessel, including yachts, in the world, of one hundred tons and upwards, and alphabetical list of all ship-owners and particulars of the war vessels belonging to all nations. Thid ancient and wonderful institution will well repay a visit, and the name of Toronto or Canada given to the portly and polite janitor, who is always in attendance, clothed in scarlet and gold from head to foot, will, by announcing the name, secure the best attention of all other officials. Dock Laborers' Strike. To one who has seen able-bodied men singing through the back streets of London, " We have no work, we have no bread," it must be regarded as a sign of improvement in the condition of working-men, that they can afford to strike without fear of starvation, and so last September John Burns, the " dockers" leader," could be seen on Tower Hill, addressing great masses of dock laborers, and encouraging them in their efforts to get better wages. This man by his pluck, fortitude and moral courage undertook to lead, victual and control an army of one hundred thousand men. A herculean task, by a herculean man, with great breadth of shoulder, strength of arm and muscle, bold and deep set, yet frank open face, and magnificent voice, he gives you at once the sense of leadership. Burns' oratory is rough, colloquial, but also plain and clear, and with touches of pathos and eloquence, and keen, dry, homely humor, he is an ideal speaker to working-men. Mr. Blirns is a life-long teeto- taler and non-smoker, and passionately attached to his pretty dark-eyed young wife, who shares all his work and troubles. Notwithstanding the great sympathy evoked on behalf of the THE ARMY AND NAVY CO-OPERATIVE STORES. 103 dockmen and the attainment of their demands, it is a question whether the advantage gained will compensate for the immense loss of time and money expended, besides the great incon- venience to the whole shipping trade of London. The Army and Navy Oo- operative Stores. I had the pleasure of going through these stores on Victoria Street, Westminster. The report of this enormous establish- ment for last year shows the sales to have amounted to £2,651,059 3s. 4d., or about thirteen millions of dollars. The gross profits were £285,825 17s. 6d., or nearly one and a half millions of dollars, and the net profits nearly half a million dollars, or £98,607 10s. The departments comprise groceries, provisions, French and Italian goods, fancy fruits, toys, tobacco, cigars, fancy pipes, wines, spirits, ironmongery, gas fittings, lamps, turnery, brushes, ccmbs, baskets, cooperage, leathers, sponges, garden implements, stationery, printing, artists' colors, mathematical instruments, books, music, drugs, perfumery (prescriptions dispensed), fancy goods, plate, jewellery, clocks, watches, bronzes, fitted dressing bags, optical instrument-^, guns, revolvers, ammunition, natural history appliances, bird stuffing, tools, drapery, hosiery, mantles, perambulators, ladies' and children's outfitting, baby linen, dress materials, tailoring, naval and military accoutrements, barrack furniture, horse appointments, waterproofing, hats, musical instruments, china and glass, games, portmanteaus, fishing tackle, pictures, picture framing, tricycles, bicycles, refreshments, etc. Having seen the various menu cards an standing out boldly before them is Castell Dinas Bran, and the line skirts the base of Brynian or Bai'ber's Hill. The beauties of Llangollen cannot be learnt by a short stay. For variety of form and color of hill and valley and stream, thf Vale of Llangollen leaves indelible impressions of unsurpasseu loveliness. The banks of the rivei' are lined with magnificent trees, whose branches dip in the water and are reflected as in a mirror, and the numberless boats all along may be seen with their merry parties moving leisurely in the shade of the trees, suggesting scones of love and pleasure and genuine enjoyment, fit subject of romance. On the right of the railway viaduct, the vale is spanned by one of Telford's famous aqueducts ; on the left, you look down into green meadows Hanked by hill-sides clothed with trees, and on the other hill-!?ide, to the no-th, is one of the innumerable castles, which Mr. Gladstone said, a few days before, " constitute the most striking and splendid castellated remains that are to be found in the whole of the island." The district is rich in historical associations of the deepest interest. Chirk Castle was besieged more than once in the Cromwellian wars; and going back to an earlier period, in the Ceinog Valley, in the reign of Henry II., was fought one of the many battles in which the Welsh struggled so bravely for independence before they finally resigned themselves to the English rule. On the train an incident occurred which struck me as indicative of the simplicity and good-nature of the Welsh people. The train being crowded, a handsomely-dressed lady entered our compartment, and finding i>) seat, when the train started, rather innocently and unceremoniously sat down on the knee \ L .S 1^ t i <• CARNARVON CASTLE. m &WA«*tii*Aai(p(>i| LLANGOLLEN. 113 of tho gentloinan next to mo. Thinkinj? the lady (aH Huch hHo undoubtedly was) was a near relative, or, porhapH, his wife, who joined him on the way, I was rather surpriHed when at thti next station she got out, bidding " Good day," as if it was »k usual custom. Llangollen. As the royal train from Llandderfel ha our train reached there, 1 had a j^ood opportunity of securing a standing-place on the road to Hryntisylio, where Her Majesty was to visit Sir Theodore Martin, who wrote tho life of Prince Albert. The road was lined with Venetian masts, from which Hags and festoons of flowers were suspendiul, the whole distance of three miles, and with the Welsh Fusileers keeping back the crowds which lined the road, formed a scene of great beauty. The royal carriage was drawn by four splendid grays, with postillions as outriders. When the procession passed, the crowd rushed back to tho town, where immen^^o mas.sos of people were kept back from the front of the Town Hall, where Her Majesty was presented with an address, by strong liarricades. After the address and reply, the royal party returned by tho road on the other side of the river, amidst the cheers of the multitude. Americans, always to the front to catch a glimpse of royalty, were there in numbers. At the left-luggage room in the station, where hundreds of satchels had been left, there was, of course, considerable delay and crowding, every one hurrying oft' after the proce.ssion had passed. One gentleman, whom I had noticed as an American, became very impatient, and on addressing him, as a brother American, he said, " I have been in England frequently, and never heard a word of incivility from a railroad official, V»ut to-day I cannot understand this want of attention." The only wonder was that the officials could keep .so cool with such a rush as compelled the police to close the doors of the station, and allow only a few to enter at a time. 8 114 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Llangollen is a beautiful town, and has a very interesting history. The number of temperance hotels is quite striking. The two principal public hotels are the well-known " Hand " and the "King's Head," changed to " The Royal" after the. Queen- when Princess Victoria — made a tour of Wales with the Duchess of Kent, in 1832. In the old days of coach travelling, the Holyhead mail changed horses at the "King's Head," and on one occasion whilst waiting, Daniel O'Connell penned the following in the visitors' book : '• I remember this village with very bad cheer, Ere the ladies, God bless them, set this inn here ; But now the traveller is sure of good fare — Let him stay at this inn, or go to that there. But all who can read will sure understand How vastly superior the head's to the hand." The " ladies " of Llangollen referred to, were two queer old souls, who, when they were young, vowed on celibacy and a cottage, and fulfilled their vows. They were Irish, and fled from matrimony as from a pestilence, and found in Llangollen a haven of rest, where for more than half a century they lived. Their names were Lady Eleanor Butler, and Miss Ponsonby. They were thus described by Matthews the elder, as they first burst on his astonished vision in the Oswestry theatre: "Oh, such curiosities ! I was nearly convulsed, I could scarcely get on for the first ten minutes after my eye caught them. As they were seated, there is not one point to distinguish them from men — the dressing and powdering of the hair, their well-starched neck-cloths ; the upper part of their habits, which they always wear when at a dinner-party, made precisely like men's coats, and regular beaver hats. They looked exactly like two respectable superannuated clergymen. Plas Newydd, where they lived, is a place of great attraction for visitors, and contains furniture, paintings and curiosities, accumulated all through their lifetime. The oak carvings are especially fine, as each visitor paying a second visit was expected to bring a piece of carved oak. CHESTER. 116 Amongst the visitors was Lord Edward Fitzgerald, who was concealed there after his escape from being arrested in Dublin, in 1798, on his complicity in the Irish rebellion and the land- ing of the French in Bantry Bay. " The ladies " were uncon- scious of the fact that £1,000 was offered for his arrest. The Duke of Wellington was here in 1819, and Wordsworth, the poet, gave them great annoyance by composing a poem, in which he called the house a " low-roofed cot." Amongst other visitors were Madame De Genlis with the young Mademoiselle D'Orleans, in 1771, and Sir Walter Scott, ia 1825. Chester. There is no city of its size in the world whose history is so full of historical interest as Chester. It is the oiily city in the kingdom which has the proud distinction of preserving its ancient walls intact. Nowhere else in Great Britain can the visitor make the circuit of the ramparts. These walls date from the very dawn of English civilization. Chester was a port when Liverpool was only a fishing village, and it was here that our kings used to embark their troops to scourge and devastate Ireland. For four hundred years the Romans were in Chester, and it is supposed that they were the builders of the celebrated " Row.s." In Chester Castle James II. partook of the mass during his stay. The Cathedral was founded in 660, and the present splendid structure was erected in 1100 to 1135. Among the first objects that meet the eye in entering and passing in front of the great west window, with its magnificent coloring, are the fiags of the 22nd Regiment, once carried to victory at the storming of Quebec. The carved tracery work of the choir is an exquisite example of artistic wood work. The whole building is full of interest and beauty. i 116 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Having made the circuit of the city, on the wall and over the gates, before breakfast, I had a splendid view of the country and city itself, including the celebrated race-course, where the "Chester Cup" is run for, and away to Eaton Hall, the seat of the , Marcjuis of Westminster, and to Hawarden Castle, the seat of the Honorable W. E. Gladstone. On the wall is a tower, from which I copied the following inscription, carved in stone : " King Charles stood on this tower, September 24th, 1645, and saw his army defeated on Rowton Moor," also " Walls flagged and repaired under Queen Anne, 1702." The old houses, or "rows," with projecting gables, supported by pillars resting on the ground floor, and leaving a space either for promenade or for business purposes, are objects of great interest. On standing to look at one of these, which was a large dry goods establishment, the proprietor, observing my curiosity, approached me in a very courteous manner, and invited me to examine the premises. On inquiring why he did not carry the windows for- ward to a line with the street, he informed me that the space in front was used for unpacking the goods, and being completely protected from the weather, it certainly was most convenient for that purpose. In answer to my next inquiry, as to the probable age of the building, I was told that it must be somewhere about 1,000 years old. I was then escorted by the proprietor, who provided himself with a long wax taper, into the subterranean apartments, surrounded by massive stone walls with iron gratings, to admit light from the outside, while the inside apartments were completely dark. Here was plenty of room for the imagination to picture scenes of carousal, of secret plot, of terrible fear, as siege and war, with famine and pestilence, succeeded each other, for many centuries. The quaint old fire- places, the nooks md corners, with sitting-rooms and dining- rooms, now converted into storage for dry goods, all speak of advanced civilization and prosperity, of peace and happiness, never before enjoyed even in happy England. Having kindly furnished me with a list of places of interest for the next day. I took leave of Mr. T. F. Denson and his OLI> LAMB ROW, CHESTER. CHESTER. 117 gentlemanly and obliging son, having been informed by the father that he had acquired the property and the business by his own energy and industry. I P •s PLACES OF INTEREST IN CHESTER. " God's Providence House," built in the twelfth century, now occupied as shops. Robert's Crypt, with stone ceilings, used as a place of worship in 1180, now used for wine vaults. Stanley House, occupied by the Earl of Derby in 1591, shown to visitors by present occupant. The Earl was executed in 1655. Bishop Lloyd's Palace, built in the twelfth century, has on a sign-board over the basement, "Best mild and bitter ales, London stout and porters." At the Grosvenor Hotel I was shown the visitors' register, in which, up to the middle of August, 1,900 Americans had signed as guests, the manager having kept a special list of those from the American side of the Atlantic. The scenery of the River Dee, Hawarden Castle, Eaton Hall, the fine old Cathedral, and the historic walls of the city, are the great attractions for visitors. In the reign of the boy-king Edgar, Dunstan, Abbot of Glastonbury Abbey, being the real king, made himself Arch- bishop of Canterbury, and exercised such power over the neighboring British princes and so collected them about the king, that once, when the king held his court at Chester, and went on the River Dee to visit the Monastery of St. John, the eight oars of his boat were pulled by eight crowned kings and steered by the King of England. Many eight-oared boats are to be seen at present on the River Dee between Chester and Eaton Hall, the palace of the Marquis of Westminster. ^ 118 TOUONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Eaton Hall. The seat of the Marquis of Westminster is the resort of all visitors to Chester. Taking the river route, I found a small but commodious steamer, with a neat cabin, having officers in uniform. We passed several miles of private residences and " tea gardens," each having a boat landing, and the river alive with boats of all shapes and sizes, from the canoe to the eight-oared pleasure boat. From the steamboat landing the walk to the Hall is very delightful, whole herds of deer are met roaming * >ugh the grounds, and the celebrated stud farm and stale s large as a village, are objects of great interest. The Hall is generally entered through the coachyard, and for a charge of one shilling, which goes to support the Chester Infirmary, the visitor is admitted to the Hall, and another shilling is charged for seeing the gardens and conserva- tories. The first apartment shown is the Duke's private chapel, the magnificent stained-glass windows of which, with the gilded alabaster recumbent statue of the late Duchess, and the general richness of the interior, are beyond description. Passing the private apartments, you are next shown the dining-room, containing superb furniture, and magnificent paintings by Millais, Snyder, and Rubens, also the stufied head of a rhinoceros. In the ante-dining-room are some of the works of the old English masters, in the shape of family portraits. The furniture includes the most lovely inlaid cabinets of ivory and ebony. The saloon, with its grand vaulted dome, spangled with golden stars upon an azure ground, and surrounded by a great wall painting of the Canterbury Pilgrims, is next passed through. The ante-drawing-rooiji comes next, and is splendidly decorated, the principal feature being bird panels. The roof is groined and gilded, and the chimney-piece is of carved alabaster. The drawing-room is a perfect blaze of ■ HAWARDEN CASTLE. 119 H El H M brilliant but refined color and gilding. The roof is groined, traced by bands of color, on which sea-wort and coral are worked. Foliage with golden fruit fills the intervening spaces. The chimney-piece is of Carrara marble, and on passing from the room, a beautiful marble statue, "Hush-a-Bye, Baby," will be noticed. The library is a fine apartment, the finish being quiet but elegant. The mouldings of the book-shelves are all of silver and pearl. In the panels are some fine historical paintings by Benjamin West; a grand organ and 10,000 volumes are included in the contents of this splendid chamber. In the corridor, leaving the library, we see a staircase lined with armor and great paintings by Rubens. The grand entrance hall is now reached. It is an apartment of spotless purity, pnved throughout with Parian marble. Some of the marbles employed are costly antiques, brought from Rome and Pompeii. The walls are panelled with slabs of Derbyshire alabaster surrounded by green Genoese marble. The great statue in the centre of the court-yard in front of the hall, is the bronze equestrian statue of Hugh Lupus, the first of the Normaii Earls of Chester, the Duke's progenitor, in the act of casting off a falcon for a flight. The exterior of the Hall is very grand, the most conspicuous object being the clock-tower, which contains a splendid chime of bells. 'i-/ Hawarden Oastle. A visit to the seat of the Right Honorable W. E. Gladstone, M.P., concluded my visit to Chester. The Castle itself is invisible from any point, on account of the thickness of the trees with which it is surrounded, until you come upon it. By taking a train for the Sandycroft Station, you are brought to within about two miles of the Castle ; the road not being provided with a sidewalk, is not the best in England for pedes- trianism, but the scenery around the Castle is worth the journey. 120 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. For the information of those wishing to interview Mr. Glad- stone, I can state, on the best authority, the proper course is to arrange preliminaries through Mrs. Gladstone, as every letter and card passes through her hands before Mr. Gladstone sees them, and if she does not consider the circumstances of suffi- cient importance, he does not see them at all. The evening before I went there Mr. Gladstone addressed about 1,000 persons on the lawn, including his own tenantry. I received a polite acknowledgment of the receipt of " Toronto ' Called Back ' " from Mr. Herbert Gladstone, who is <:onstantly in attendance on his father. Belfast. The new Express line of steamers from Liverpool to Belfast is in every respect comfortable and convenient, furnished with electric lights and bells, and all modern improvements. Passengers are furnished with an excellent supper, and the sleeping berths are all that can be desired. The passage by the Optic was a very pleasant one, occupying •about twelve hours. The splendid stone quays at Belfast afford the greatest facilities for landing freight and passengers, while the long range of fire-proof freight sheds, which line the whole frontage, and on which outward and inward freight for each steamship company is stored, show a spirit of enterprise and design commensurate with the great trade of this city, which is worthy of imitation. I believe these were built and are owned by the city, and let to the diftierent steamship companies. ' During my stay with kind friends, I had the happiness of enjoying a situation of extreme loveliness and suburban beauty. From Ulswater Terrace, Cave Hill Road, an uninterrupted viow of Cave Hill is obtained. Along the north shore of the lough the land slopes up from the water, reaching in the Cave Hill, which forms a very prominent object of the landscape, an elevation of over 1,100 feet In Ihis direction are many of the splendid houses of the rich Belfast merchants. The Reservoir Park lies between Cave Hill Road and Cave Hill. i I ■sss • m: ■ y BELFAST. 121 ■ In some respects, at least, Belfast approaches nearest to Toronto of any city with which I am acquainted. The popula- tion is about the same, and it will be interesting to witness the comparative progress of both in the future. In the number of colleges and churches there is also some similarity. While the wholesale trade of Toronto is much more extensive, yet in the great manufacturing interests of the linen trade, and also of ship-building, Belfast is away ahead of all competitors, the Clyde ship-building alone excepted. In this trade in Belfast about 13,000 men are employed. In linen manufactures, Belfast has an advantage over any of the English branches, especially in her trade with the United States, where her goods are a necessity, and practically control the market, as there is no competition with domestic goods. My frequent visits to the immense linen manufactories having made them familiar in both spinning and weaving, I availed myself of only one offer to inspect the Broadway Spinning Company's works, which, although not the most extensive, are on a magnificent scale. The whole system is perfect and was fully explained by my young friend, Mr. Joseph Hall, of Montreal, who is studying the whole system scientifically and practically. The leading line in this establishment is Damasks, and the elaboration of the patterns in design and workmanship is most complicated and most beautiful. Here any design for army or navy, for steamships or rail- ways, for royal households, as well as peasant cottages, is produced to order, or for general sale and shipment to every part of the world. In one room are six hundred looms engaged in this branch alone, while in other apartments may be seen the yarn in every stage preparing for the looms. Belfast is clean and free from smoke, the streets are well laid out and contain handsome municipal buildings, churches, colleges, shops and private houses. Since my last visit Royal Avenue has been built, which forms a continuation of Donegal Place, and adds greatly to the impos- ing appearance of that part of the town. I 122 TOBONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Such buildings as the Custom House, the Town Hall, the new Post Office, the Banks and the Albert Memorial, are an orna- ment to any city. Handsome bridges cross the Lagan. I had the pleasure of supplying the Library at the Linen Hall, the Chamber of Commerce, the Royal Avenue and Terry's Hotels, with copies of " Toronto ' Called Back/ " and have received kind acknowledgments. As an incident, I may mention that I was on my way to present a copy to the Queen's Hotel, but noticing the Stars and Stripes floating aloft, I inquired what that flag meant, and was informed that it was in honor of some Americans who were staying there. I did not leave a copy of my book. I am indebted to Mr. Henderson, of the Belfast News Letter, for the following kindly notice : — Toronto has found a highly appreciative historian in Mr. C. C. Taylor. In the handsome volume before us, the appear- ance of which indicates in an emphatic way the enterprise and attainments of the Canadian publistiers, the marvellous progress made by the Queen City of the Dominion is recorded in that plain, matter-of-fact style which should be inseparable from every work of the same character. It is in his account of the advance of the city, where he has lived for over forty years, that Mr. Taylor can claim the consideration of the reader. He has watched in the most appreciative spirit the various events that have made Toronto what it is to-day, and it is worthy of remark, that he is strongly of the belief that the introduction of a protective tariff has contributed largely to the position which the city occupies. Not only were local industries stimulated to a great extent, but the imports from Great Britain increased at the sacrifice of those of the United States. The opinion of Mr. Taylor on this matter is undoubtedly valuable. His testimony is not that of a casual observer, but of an expert. There are, indeed, few cities in the colonies that have become so transformed as Tdronto, in the coiirye of less than half a century. Contrasted with its present appearance, the account of the place forty-two years ago, given in this volume, appears almost incredible. It is a city of which Mr. Taylor, as well as any inhabitant of the Dominion, may justly feel proud. CLANDEBOTE. 123 Olandeboye. I felt that it would be losing a good opportunity if, on the return of Lord Dufferin from India, under his new title of the Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, and before his departure for Rome, I did not pay the respects of a Torontonian to one whose memory is still fresh amongst us. Having selected a beautiful morning, I therefore set out on this pleasant excursion, an account of which has already appeared in the Evening Telegram, the Christian Guardian and Sentinel of this city, as follows : — Passing over Queen Street bridge, Belfast, and taking the train for Helen's Bay, from the County Down station, you are placed on the direct road to Olandeboye, the seat of the Marquis of Dufferin. On the way you pass the building yards and docks of Messrs. Harland &; Wolff, the celebrated ship-builders, who are now finishing the two hundred and tenth steamer turned out by the firm. The great steamer Majestic, twin ship of the Teutonic, lies at, the quay receiving her finishing touches. Those knowing Belfast will have an idea of her size from the fact that she is the length of Donegal Place. Messrs. Harland & Wolff employ from 6,000 to 7,000 hands. The four picturesque stations passed on the way to Helen's Bay are Deautifully kept, the name of each being formed in flowers and surrounded with ivy and other evergreens, and in the vicinity of each are splendid mansions, occupied by the wealthy manu- facturers of this splendid and prosperous city. The view across the " lough " on the opposite side is most charming. The beautiful verdure of the fields and woods, the whole landscape dotted with white houses, and here and there a splendid resi- dence in park-like grounds, form a picture of beauty and prosperity seldom surpassed. Arriving at Helen's Bay, you are directed to take the public road for Olandeboye. This road leads through the charming village of Orawfordburne, called after Mr. Orawford, ex-M.P., whose seat is close by and well worthy of a visit. The avenue is entered from the public road through gates, which are kept by a keeper who is also post- master, no doubt the post-office being for the accommodation of Lord Dufferin. The entrance to Olandeboye House is flanked on every side by high walls entirely covered with ivy, while 1 124 TORONTO "CALLED BACK AND EMIGRATION. of every description, being the principal the grounds abound with evergreens magnificent laurels, hollies and yews varieties. Feeling confident that a Canadian would be well received by his Lordship, my first object was to ascertain whether he was at home, and this I found by inquiring of a young gentleman who was superintending the hauling in of a ponderous bell, which completely blocked the entrance, and which a number of workmen were placing with another in the grand entrance hall. The young gentleman referred to, as he afterwards himself told me, was Lord Terence Blackwood, the second son of the Marquis. The bells had just arrived from India along with an immense number of curiosities, which are to find a place in the already large museum, collected in various parts of the world. A person who was assisting in the " hauling " I found to be the house steward and valet, who has travelled with the Marquis all over the world. He, on finding I was from Toronto, spoke in the highest terms of the pleasures he enjoyed in our city. On handing my card to a footman he said it was very improbable that his Lordship would be able to see me on account of the pressure of private business, but was sure the secretary would come down. However, having delivered the card, the footman brought word that his Lordship would come down to receive me, and immediately I was greeted with a welcome of which any Canadian or Torontonian might feel proud, showing, as it did, the place Canada holds in his memory. Proceeding up the grand staircase, surrounded on every side by objects of interest and beauty, I was shown into the magnifi- cent reception room, where in the most cordial manner, before a pleasant fire, we conversed on Canada and Toronto, his Lord- ship speaking in the highest terms of Lord Lansdowne, while I' related the events of the days when a certain Irish member of Parliament spoke in the Queen's Park in no complimentary terms of the Marquis as a landlord. His Lordship spoke of the great progress of Toronto, hut when I mentioned the fact that while the great and growing city of Belfast had added 87,000 to her population in twenty years, Toronto had added to hers 90,000 in eight years, he was completely surprised, no doubt his absence in India havinor caused hini to lose track of our actual progress. Having shown me his magnificent the terrace library to show and the drawing-room, he took me out on beautiful grounds and splendid view. Walking through the grounds and returning to the main CLANDEBOTK 126 entrance, the curios and relics from all countries were pointed out — sculptures and hieroglyphics from Egypt, brass guns iconx Burmah and India, bears from Russia, Pagan deities from British Columbia, forming a most interesting collection, impos- sible to enumerate. His Lordship then pointed particularly to the Canadian specimens, two rows of our curling stones flank- ing the outer stairway. Apologizing for having to leave me and with a hearty shake of the hand, he requested Lord Terence to order a car and servant to drive me through the demesne to Helen's Tower, which he informed lue he had built in memory of his mother. While waiting for the conveyance, Lord Terence, seated on one side of a great fireplace, entertained me with some accounts of the history of the house. It was built in the time of James II., and in it eight generations of the family have been born. A car and splendid horse, driven by a servant in elegant livery, appearing, and taking leave of Lord Terence, whose manly and unaffected politeness and intelligence for a youth of nineteen cannot be exaggerated, I was driven through a most beautiful and romantic avenue to the foot of the tower, which stands on the highest ground in the demesne. The tower is built on a solid rock, and is approached on one side by steps cut out of the rock. It is castellated, with embrasures as windows, from which a fine view is obtained as you ascend the colored tiles of the winding stair. On the first landing is a room handsomely furnished, and on the table is the visitors' book, containing the names of visitors from every land. On another floor is the bed in which the late Lady Dufferin slept, having the family escutcheon at the head, and on the valance at the foot the lines beautifully embroidered in the old English characters : " And nightly pitch my moTinff A day's march nearer home. tent From the top of the tower are seen the towns of Bangor, Newtonards, Donaghadee, and across the lough is Carrickfergus, with Strangford lough on the east, while out to sea you behold vessels of all sizes and from every port, and across is the Scottish coast. Returning by the private avenue of six miles to the station, the road lined with magnificent beech and other trees the whole distance, you enter the station under a viaduct, on which the Dufferin arms are sculptured, and by a stairway through a tower built by himself, and at once perceive that the i ^ ; 126 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Marquis is the lord of the place, the railway station itself having been built after his own design, and having over it the coronet and monoeram, " D. & A." His Lordship was entertained at a banquet the next week, and left Clandeboye for Rome early in October, to assume his duties as ambassador to the Court of Italy. In framed tablets, in gilt letters, on the wall of one of the rooms in the tower are the following poems. The first written by his mother. Lady Dufferin, on his twenty-first birthday. The others, by Browning and Tennyson, are original for the place, and not to be found in their published works. To my dear boy on his 21st birthday, with a silver lamp : — "FIAT LUX." How shall I bless thee ? Human love Is all too poor, in passionate words, The heart aches with a sense above All language that the lip affords ; Therefore a symbol shall express My love, a thing nor rare nor strange, But yet eternal, measureless, Knowing no shadow, and no change. Light ! which of all the lovely shows To our poor world of shadows given, The fervent Prophet-voices chose Alone as attribute of heaven ! At a most solemn pause we stand ; From this day forth for evermore, The weak but loving human hand Must cease to guard thee as of yore ; Then, as through life thy footsteps stray, And earthly beiicons dimly shine, Let there be light upon thy way, And holier guidance far than mine. Let there be light in thy clear soul, When passion tempts or doubts assail, When grief's dark tempests o'er thee roll Let there be light that shall not fail. So, angel-guarded, must thou tread The narrow path which few may find. And at the end, look back, nor dread To count the vanished years behind. CLANDEBOYE. And pray that she whose hand doth trace This heart- warm prayer, when life is past May see and know the blessed face, In God's own glorious light at last. 21st of June, 1847. 127 Lady Dufferin's name being Helen, explains the allusions in the poems, and also the name of the tower. The first I copied on the spot, and expected to find the others in the authors' works, but being disappointed in this, I wrote to Lord Terence Blackwood, who kindly sent me copies of the words. Browning. Who hears of Helen's Tower perchance may dream How the Greek beauty, from the Scalar gate, Looked on old friends unanimous in hate, Death doomed, because of her fair countenance. Hearts would leap otherwise at thy advance, Lady ! to whom the tower is consecrate ; Like hers, thy face once made all hearts elate ; But, unlike hers, are blest by every glance. The Tower of Hate is outworn far and strange, A transitory shame of long ago. It sank into the earth from which it sprang ; But thine. Love's rock-built tower, shall know no change ; God's self laid stable earth's foundations so. When all the morning stara together sang. Tennyson. Helen's Tower, here I stand Dominant over sea and land, Since love built me, and I hold Mother's love engraved in gold ; Love is in and out of time, I am mortal, stone and lime ; 128 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. Would my granite girth were strong As either love to last as long, I should wear my crown entire, To and through the Doomsday fire. And be seen by angel eyes In earth's receiving Paradise. Having a copy of " Toronto ' Called Back ' and Queen's Jubilee" with me, elegantly bound in crimson morocco, I took the opportunity of presenting it to His Lordship, with the follow- ing inscription on a blank leaf : — TO THE MOST NOBLE THE MARQUIS OF DUFFERIN AND AVA, K.T., ETC., ETC. In remembrance of your Lordship's residence in Canada &s Governor- General, and of the distinguished services you rendered the Dominion, and of your frequent visits to Toronto, where your dignified and yet courteous demeanor and eloquent addresses are still fresh in the minds of our citizens, this unpretentious volume of reminiscences of the marvellous growth and progress of our loyal Queen City of the West, is presented by the author. Belfast, September 13th, 1889. On my return to Portadown, I received the following letter from His Lordshp : — Clandeboye, Co. Down, September 16th, 1889. My dear Mr. Taylor, — I have looked through your interest- ing book, and am more than ever obliged to you for your kind- ness in having given me a copy of it. Any one who takes the trouble to note the succession of events in the rise and progress of a great community like that of Toronto exercises a very use- ful function, and with the lapse of time the materials he has collected and the facts he has preserved from oblivion become more and more valuable. Wishing you a prosperous retura to the Dominion, Believe me, yours very truly, (Signed) Dufperin and Ava. of BELFAST. 129 While the absence of volunteers in uniform is a noticeable feature in Irish towns, the presence of two Highland regiments, the 78th and 42nd, and the parade of the Scot's Qreys, gave a bright and animated appearance to the streets of Belfast. Constabulary barracks are to be found everywhere, and the men remind one of the Rifles in their green uniforms. The question of Home Rule is seldom heard in Belfast. The hum of machinery and bustle of prosperity seemed to drown any noise on the subject, and there appeared to be a good deal of truth in what a gentleman in England remarked, that he liked travelling in Ireland better than any other country, as it was " the only one in which he heard nothing of Home Rule.' The explanation, I think, is, that it is a question of so delicate a nature that the sensitiveness of the people prevents its discussion. The physique of the men of Belfast I con.sider much superior to that of the men of the large English cities, and feel bound to say I think the difference is to be accounted for by the fact of the excessive use of beer and tobacco by the latter, which has produced a visible deterioration in the last thirty years. From Belfast as a centre, visits to the numerous towns com- prising the seat of the great linen manufactures are specially interesting. The appearance of the growing flax, with its pretty blue flower, is a marked feature in the scenery. There is an appearance of thrift and prosperity everywhere. The absence of wheat growing is quite noticeable, and the super- abundance of hay and oats strikes a Canadian &s rather remarkable. I was told it pays better to buy imported wheat and use the land for other purposes, especially for grazing. My impression was that they grew and produced more food for the " beast " than for the " man." A row in a boat for nine miles from Portadown to Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the United Kingdom, discovered such a succession of hay-stacks all along the banks of the River Bann as seemed truly astonishing, while large scows or barges, laden with turf or peat for fuel, met us at every turn of this serpentine river. 9 iSVf-''' 8.1 -ti"' ■•'-■: 130 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGRATION. No less than five counties border on Lough Neagh — London- derry, Tyrone, Antrim, Armagh, and Down. The water has long been celebrated for its power of petrification. What are sold in fairs and markets as " hones," for sharpening knives, are said to have been originally wood, thrown into the water, and these itinerant hawkers call them out as " Lough Neagh hones, they went in wood and came out stones." Portadown, with its fine railway station, being the junction of the Belfast and Londonderry lines, is an important business and manufacturing town, and from here, while visiting with friends, some delightful excursions were made. Tandragee, a few miles distant, with its castle, the seat of the Duke of Manchester, afibrded a delightful outing on the occa- sion of a monster picnic of the Church of " Ireland " Sunday- schools. The novelty of the change of name from Church of England, to which I had been accustomed, led to several reminders on the part of my friends. Here I had the pleasure of meeting the rector. Rev. Mr. Richardson, who showed an intimate acquaintance with Canada and many of her clergymen. The grounds around the castle are most charming, an especial feature being the wonderful variety of the evergreens. Scarcely two trees are exactly alike, the rarest specimens of fir and lai?h, mixed with copper beeches, hollies and laurels, being extremely beautiful in their effect. Armagh. A visit to Armagh, on the occasion of the restoration or renova- tion of the ancient cathedral, with a full choral service, well repaid the time. Armagh is one of the oldest towns in Ireland, and the seat of the most ancient archbishopric. The town occupies the slope of a hill, which is finely crowned by the handsome pile of the cathedral. The Roman Catholic cathedral is also magnificently placed on Banbrook Hill. The narrow streets with their ancient appearance harmonize with the great antiquity of the place. They are clean and neat, and the whole town wears an air of prosperity and extreme respectability. ARMAGH. 131 Dr. Reeves, a great authority on ecclesiastical affairs, writes : " No city is so rich in historical associations, and yet has so little to show, and so little to tell, in the present day, as Armagh. St. Patrick's first church is now represented by the Bank of Ireland. The Provincial Bank comes close on St. Columba's. St. Bride's shares its honors with a paddock. St. Peter and St. Paul afford stabling to a modern ru8 in urbe, and St. Mary's is lost in a dwelling house." No city in Western Europe has been burnt or plundered more frequently. In very ancient days it was noted for Emenia, the seat of Ulster sovereignty, and of the Knights of the Red Branch, and later on for the Damhliag Mor, or Great Church, built by St. Patrick, the great school or university, and the royal cemetery ; but except the first none of these have left any traces. The present cathedral in all probability stands on the site of the stone building which St. Patrick founded, and was begun about 1268. It is well worth careful study, and stands upon a site that for fourteen centuries has been consecrated to Christian worship. The Archbishop of Armagh is Primate of all Ireland ; and such men as Usher, Hoadley and Robinson have held the office. The effigies in marble of these celebrated prelates are the chief features that retain the antique appearance of the interior, the late improvements having tended to modernize the whole building. The music was something superb. The choir is composed of first-class vocalists, the original endowment for its support dating back to the time of Charles II. ARMAGH LIBRARY. This priceless library contains some of the mof>t ancient, vare and costly works of any library in the world. So great is the antiquity of some, that the leaves are melting way beyond the power of preservation. Having presented Chancellor Wade with a copy of " Toronto wmmm 182 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EmORATION. ' Called Back/ " he left a number of clergymen who attended, the opening services, and in the kindest manner showed me many of the most rare and valuable works, both printed and manuscript. The early Irish style of manuscript adornment, so elaborately executed, is the wonder of every observer. In the Book of Armagh, now in the library of Trinity College, Dublin, in a space scarcely measuring three-quarters of an inch by less than half an inch in width, can be seen not fewer than one hundred and tifty-eight interlacements of a slender ribbon pattern, formed of white lines edged by black ones, on a black ground. The introduction of natural foliage in this manuscript is another of its great peculiarities, whilst the intricate inter- twinings of the branches is eminently characteristic of the Celtic spirit. The Book of Armagh contains notes in Latin and Irish on St. Patrick's acts, a collection, styled Liber Angueli, relating to the rights and prerogatives of the See of Armagh and the Confession of St. Patrick. An introduction to a number of friends, chiefly clergymen, has made my visit to Armagh memorable. Return to Canada. Having secured a passage by the Polynesian, sailing from Liverpool the 19th September, I awaited her arrival at London- derry. As I had frequently seen the sights of that interesting and historical city, with its walls and gates and venerable cathedral, I prolonged my stay at Portadown as long as pos- sible. The agent of the Allan Line informed me that I would be safe to go by the mail train, but perfectly sure to be on time by going to Londonderry the night before. As I was satisfied with being " safe " I waited, and finding on arrival at the station, in the train from Dublin a " van" on which was painted in large letters, " Canadian Mail Van for Londonderry," I knew I was in time. On getting on board the tender at Londonderry, one is struck with the magnitude of the mails by this route ; immense sacks mtffm RETURN TO CANADA. 133 and locked baskets seemed to be poured in till you are tired watching the operation. The increase in the last few years appears to be enormous. In a shower of sleet, and with imperfect shelter, we got over the sixteen miles to Moville, with no variety except the trading in Irish blackthorn sticks, which were offered for sale, without many buyers. The splendid steamship Ethiopia, of the Anchor Line, steamed out to sea just a little ahead of the Polynesian. On " turning the corner," we soon found we were " on the rolling deep," and the good old steamer on which I had travelled twenty years before with Captain Dutton, R.N., behaved so badly as to send a good many passengers speedily to the retire- ment of their cabins. Any other vessel might have treated us in a similar manner in such a sea, but as perhaps suggested by her name, she soon was christened " Roly-poly." Contrary to my expectations, there was not a single passenger on board who had gone over in the Sardinian. • Nevertheless, the company proved a very agreeable one, quite a number being from Toronto, and others coming there for the first time. Wm. O'Connor w&s on board' returning from Australia. Major-General Pierce, of the East India Company's service, with his wife, were coning from London to see a son, who was learning farming at Orillia. Several young men were on their way to tl Agricultural College at Guelph. Professor Smyth, from Belfa b, was coming to assume the duties of musical pro- fessor in a c liege at Ottawa; and Mrs. Crawford, with her two daughters, to enter upon charge of a Ladies' College, also at Ottawa, as principal. The usual amusements on deck in fine weather, with music in the saloon, caused the time to pass very agreeably, and the sight of land at Belle Isle, after the shortest possible ocean passage, gave satisfaction to all on board, not even the presence of immense icebergs producing any alarm or discomfort. The magnificent scenery of the St. Lawrence, where it narrows above the Qulf and the Island of Anticosti, excited as usual the admiration of all the passengers, especially those who had never seen a great river before. 134 TORONTO "CALLED BACK" AND EMIGBATION. The sail from Quebec by daylight, only lately allowed, and never enjoyed by the travellers on the river boats, is indeed a great treat. The whole distance to Montreal opening up fresh scenes of beauty and interest at every turn, was greatly enjoyed by all on board. The usual dispersion at Montreal soon separates most for life, while a few have formed friendships that will last as long as circumstances favor correspondence. It is sincerely to be hoped that, with new and faster vessels from Canada to Great Britain, much of the passenger traffic now going to New York will be turned back to our own route, which is by far the shortest, and in every way more pleasant. With a railroad to Labrador or Cape Breton, the sea passage could be accomplishe(^. by fast steamers, easily, in four days, and the whole journey from Chicago to Liverpool in six days. ■ t. m i>^ '-' ,* H "l'lll,">l»iil|B.w«p ^Hl(i»i|(iii_j|ii«^'ii "ITTTTir- R- l^v ./'- > ,-; r. ^' ,\ '?% ^:3