IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I l^|28 |2.5 1.8 1.25 j 1.4 r-6 .a 6" — ► <^ 'W n v: > > 7 ? Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 w£ST M <l. SJofitou: PRINTED ANU rUBLISHED BY J. HOWE, MERCHANTS ROW. SOLD MX LINCOLN & EDMANDS, f»9, WASlllN G TON STREET; A. B. PAaKKB, lU, NORTH MARKET STREEr; AND BV A. BROWN AND THE 1'UBL.ISIIKR, CHARLESTOWN. msttict Of flftasjsacl)tt!9etfs..*.to toCt: DISTRICT clerk's OFFICE. Be it remkmbered, Thnt on the eighth day of February, A. D. 1830, in the fifty-fourth year of the Independence of the United States of America, Jonathan Howe, of the said District, has deposited in this OfRce the Title of a Book, the right v/hereof he claims a.; Proprietor, in the words fol- lowing, to wit : " A Geograpical Sketch of that part of North America called Oregon ; containing an Account of the Indian Title ; — the nature of a Right of SoTe- reignty; — the First Discoveries ; — Climate and Seasons ; — Face of the Coun- try and Mountains — Natural Divisions, Physical Appearances aiid Soil of each; — Fores^ts and "Vegetable Productions; — Bivers, Bays, &c. ; — Islands, &c. ; — Animals ; — the Disposition of the Indians, and the Number and Situation of their Tribes ; — together with an Essay on the Advantages resulting from a Settlement of the Territory. To which is attached a New Map of the Country. By Hall J. Kelley, A. M." In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled, " An Act for the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the Copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such Copies, during the times therein mentioned ;" and also to i' Act entitled " An Act Supplemen- tary to an Act, entitled, An Act fortheLncouragementof Learning, by secur- ing the Copies of Maps, Charts, and Books to the Authors and Proprietors of Buch Copies during the times therein mentioned ; and extending the benefits thereof to the Arts of Designing, Engraving and Etching Historical and other Prints." JNO. W. DAVIS, CUrk of the District of Ma»sachu$eit$. PREFACE. The geographical character of the Oregon Territory was unknown, if we except some small tracts on the coast, till the exploration of Lewis and Clarke. Information derived from their account, from public documents, from personal interviews with intelligent voyagers and travellers, or from their journals, contributes chiefly to the following sketch, as well as, to a more full history, to be published at some fu- ture day. The knowledge of navigators has been circum- scribed within narrow limits on the coast ; their objects in pursuits, precluding the possibility of its being otherwise. That of hunters and travellers has been general and inland. As far, however, as these persons were eye witnesses of the country, they are qualified justly to estimate its character. Some years of zealous and patient, if not indefatigable in- quiry, have, likewise, qualified the writer to aid in its settle- ment and to promote generally a plan, the projectors of which avow as their purpose, to secure to themselves a greater repose and enjoyment of life ; to meliorate the con- dition of the Indians, and lo propagate among them, and the nations contiguous, the peaceful and refined principles of civilization, Christianity and civil polity. The writer, fully conscious of his want of abilities to beautify his compositions with rhetorical embellishments, attempts nothing on this subject, transcendantly important, farther than to impress the public mind with simple and un- adorned facts. This sketch has been prepared for the benefit of the friends to the Oregon Colonization Society, as well as, of those to mankind in general. To their indulgence he offers it, deeply sensible of its many imperfections. Some of its defects, however, are contingent. Not being possessed of that free and imperial command of words, which is the pe- ruliar rolicity of a few ; mid the short time prescribed for the work, precluding an opportunity for its thorough accom- phshment, he has not been able to elucidate its subjects with a clearness and elegance satisfactory to himself; nor has he succeeded in giving that minute and picturesque description of the rural scenes, of which the country is sus- ceptible, lie derives no merit from the execution of this little work. He does, indeed, assume to himself a merit, in having a mind invulnerable to the attacks of calumny, and ardent in the investigation of truth ; in having pursued the subject of these pages, with a degree of enthusiasm, inde- pendence and patience important to its success. The settlement of the Oregon country has been as long contemplated, as its paramount advantages in climate and soil, and its local opportunities for trade and commerce have been known. Some few, in dift'erent parts of the Union have, for years, made it an interesting subject of inquiry and solic- itude ; and have tasked themselves in the work of unfolding its history, and of securing its privileges to the citizens of tlic American Republic. It is believed that the great philosopher and philanthro- pist, Thomas Jefferson, in his career of useful labours to his country, and p-.'^^-H desires to advance its glory and the happiness of man- first suggested the plan of colonizing the territory, which, trirough ifiis patriotic designs, had been purchased and partially explored. In his day, the period had not arrived for the execution of the purpose. Whoever will, at the present time, attentively observe the meliorating improvements and reforms in human affairs, survey the dif- ferent sections of the earth, and notice their natural and comparative adaptation to the peaceful operations of civil- ized life, will be convinced that the time has fully come, in tFie order of Providence, when that uncultivated tract is to be changed into a fruitful field ; that haunt of savages and wild beasts, to be made the happy abode of refined and dig- nified man. In relation to the advantages of the country, we are fully justified in the general remark, that no portion of the globe presents a more fruitful soil, or a milder climate, or equal fa- cilities for carrying into efiect the great purposes of a free and enlightened nation. A country so full of those natural means, which best contribute to the comforts and conven- iences of life, is worthy the occupancy of a people dis- posed to support a free representative government, and to 5 cstuhlish civil, scientific and religious institutions, energized by the mild and vital principles of our Republic. Lite, in that country, inuy be made easy with comparatively little etlbrt ; but it cannot be long sustained, any where, without some suftering and laborious industry. A place, where the full sustenance of man is spontaneously produced, would not be desirable for a settlement; as it would encourage a propensity to idleness, and idleness is the soil, in which vice can best flourish and produce its pestiferous fruit. To the project, which the following sketch is designed to promote, ignorance, envy, and the sordid interests of self have array- ed themselves in opposition. Ignorance and self, whenever a work beneficial to the community or to the public at large is proposed, becomes active and, sometimes, brutal. Then, more than at other times, they constitute the rot, which weakens and wastes the foundations of free institutions. Hence it is needful, that the friends of the Colony should possess a little of the active and vital principle of enthusiasm, that shields against disappointments, and against the presumtive opinions and insults of others. Opposition has constantly attended, and sometimes witli great injustice, every attempt made by the author of this sketch, at public improvements. It oppugned his attempts, some years ago, to benefit the youth of our country, by a better system of moral and physical instruc- tion, in the estiblishment of agricultural and mechanical in- stitutions, in this State. His zealous eflbrts, however, excit- ed in others of abler talents, correspondent intentions and labours, which resulted, in some small benefit, to our literary institutions. He still ventures to think for himself; and to do, what he deems it his duty to do, without fear, palliation, or disguise. And having experienced, during many years of anxiety and labour upon the Oregon Colonization subject, much contume- ly from the ignorant, and from the sordid misanthrope ; and suffered the loss of a fortune fully adequate to the comfort- able support of his family, a loss consequent of a devoted- ness, ardently intense ; he is excited to greater diligence, and to a zeal, in some measure proportionate to the magni- tude of the project. Of the two Maps attached to this sketch, one is old, but answers the purpose of showing the position of Oregon, in relation to other countries on North America; and of mark- ing out the track of a voyage, by which emigrants may reach their dcstlnntion in less than fifty clays from the time of their einbarcation. The vioyage from lir.jton into Cam- peachy bay is, generally, less than twenty-five days. Over the isthmus, by means of carriages, would be less than two days. From Panama gulf to the entrance of the Columbia river is a voyage of about twenty days. The other Map is a representation of Oregon, made from the best authorities. '. II f! I NOTATIONS. The numerical figures are used for references from the description of an object in the book, to the representation of it, on the map ; for example, the figure i, under the head of Lewis' river, refers to Drewyer's river on the map. = Two parallel lines drawn across the river indicate a fall. '^-*' A crooked line across a river indicates a rapid. A Two sides of a triangle indicate an Indian village, and the figure included is the reference. ; < i; A 8KBTCH OF THE NATURAL GEOO'^APHY OF THE OREGON COUJTTRY. H EXTENT AND BOUNDARY. This country belongs to different ami Indepen- dent tribes of Indians, and is that part of North America, which lies between latitudes 4^ and 49 degrees N., and is bounded on the W. by the Pacific ocean, and on the E. by an indefinite line, on the sumniit of the Rocky mountains. On the north, it is about 400 miles, and on the south, 580 miles in extent. It has about 420 miles of sea coast. The American Republic claims a right of sovereignty over this, and likewise over the country extending from this, to 54° 30' N. latitude. The particular territory, of which we propose some account, is call- ed Oregon; because it was included within the Louisiana purchase ; and because, it is watered and beautified by a river, which once bore the name of Oregon, but which is now more generally, and properly, cafled Columbia, after the name of the first American vessel, that ever floated on its waters. - THE INDIAN TITLE. Captain Kendrick, in the service of a company of gentlemen in Boston, in the year 1791, bought of certain tribes of Indians inhabiting the coast of this country, a tract of their lands. With this ex- ception, if this exception is to be made, the title of the whole country, and the exclusive right of occu- 1 ■ I- It «. 8 piition remains invested in the aborigines. These rights to their native domain are paramount, and supported by a grant from the Creator of earth and man, and is in perfect accordance with justice and the best^principles of common law and the human heart. They cannot be acquired by others, but on those common principles, recognized in the transfer of freehold estate among all civilized nations. The right of purchasin^^ any portion of their lands, seems to be a prerogative of that sovereignty just- ly claimed and exercised by some enlightened and free people. To take from them a part, or the whole of their lands, without an adequate remu- neration, on the ground that the improvements in human afliiirs, and the good of mankind require it, is wrong, and utterly unjustifiable. Notwithstanding Indians differ from white men in the tincture of their skins, they, nevertheless, have natural risfhts like other members of tiie human family. They can buy, sell, and hold prop- erty, personal, real or mixed ; and are wont to ex- ercise these rights. As well might strangers rob them of their pelts and skins, as to take from them their forests and prairies. Admitting the self-evident truth, that all men are born free, and with equal rights ; the claims, which have been set up by different nations, to territory occupied from time immemorial, solely by Indians, are deserving of no respect or support. Spain, Russia, France, America and England, have each claimed the Oregon country ; and if all of them have not likewise claimed the right of parcel- ling it out to their respective subjects, they have, that of conveying it to other nations. Spain sold it to France and quitclaimed it to America. France deeded it to America. Russia gave up all preten- sions to the North West Coast south of 54° 40' N. The noisy operations of the peaceful arts, and the busy scenes of refined life, please and delight the civilized man, and seem essential to his exi^t- ) j i 9 tance ; but to the Indians, these things are ungrate- ful, and have no power to charm like the war song or dance, or the sports of the chase. Because of the dis- parity of these two natures, the untaught sons of God, are doomed to suffer wrongs without hope of redress. They have been driven from their freeholds, and obliged to seek a new resting place, in the solitude of a trackless forest. They have retired before the advancing tide of civilization ; their numbers and tribes have decreased, and their fortunes have de- clined. The fiat of power, alone, decreeing it. No convenience or wants of the most improved and enlightened society can justify, upon Indians, aggressions, more unjust than their own retributive acts of cruelties. The rights, which England set up to this coun- try, are predicated on idle and arrogant preten- sions ; nor is the claim made by America, to a right of soil founded on a better tenure. The claim of the latter, however, is made with plausibility, hav- ing some invested privileges involved in a clear right of sovereignty over the country, as will here- after appear. [: I OBSERVATIONS UPON THE RIGHT OF SOVEREIGNTY OVER THE INDIAN TERRITORY. In considering this subject, it is necessary to ascertain, what is meant by sovereignty, by its use and ultimate object. We understand sovereignty to be a supreme independent power, joined with wisdom ind benevolence. It is directed and ani- mated by the two latter, and ordained by the Author of all happiness, for the advantage and welfare of human society. Its principal object is to enforce the observance of the laws of nature. If we well consider the actual state of things, the constitution of man, and the principle of his sociability, we shall find that the laws of nature form a perfect system of humanity ; and that God, in them, imposes certain benevolent and social 3 ft w tA.l 10 duties on individuals, on communities, and on na- tions composed of communities. Man is formed for happiness. He strongly desires it. He is en- dowed with reason and sociability, and furnished with a thousand facilities, whereby he attains it. In consequence of his weakness, ignorance, and wants, he is provided with parents and governors, who are invested with authority and power to pro- tect and cherish him in infancy, and todi'*ect and sus- tain him in riper years. From this view of his being, we more clearly discover the intension of the laws of nature, and draw from them a system of ethicks, whose rules are in perfect harmony with those of divine revelation. To follow them is to obey the voice of reason and religion. These laws pervade the universe. They en- courage and support a commerce of mutual benefits amon^ men, unite them in social covenants, melio- rate their conditions and make life easy. By them, the white man and Indian, have common rights to occupy the earth, to use its productions, and to share mutually in the blessings of society. By them, man is obligated to perfect his social state, and conform it to the excellence and perfection of the works of nature, where order and regularity, justly proportioned and balanced, preserve a gene- ral harmony, and form a complete and beautiful whole ; and evince the sovereignty of Him, that made them. The law of nature is perfect, and virtually the law of nations ; 'ts first maxim is, that individuals and nations shall live in a friendly intercourse, mu- tually benefitting each other. As the perfections of man and society, and conse- quently nations, depend on a conformity to the law of nature, and the intentions of the Creator, so the nations enjoying the highest favours of Providence, such as the benefits of civilization, Christianity and civil freedom, pursuant to the same law, are bound to show kindness to the rude and suflering tribes of V'. I 11 Indians, and to relieve the wants of a people, uncon- scious of their savage character, and ignorant of the conveniences and comforts derived from civiliza- tion, from the polHe arts, and from all, which diver- sify and adorn human life. Hence i" is the duty of enlightened nations, in obedience to the law of nature, to form the tastes, inclinatiors and habits of the untaught nations, for the enjoyment of those things, which result in the prosperity and happi- ness of our species. From the above we infer, that sovereignty over the Indians of Oregon, as well as over all others, necessarily devolves on some peo- ple, more excellent and happy than themselves ; on a people, whose power is associated with wis- dom and benevolence. It is, therefore, most clearly seen, among the functions of this sovereignty, to be a duty to protect the rights and to cherish tne interests of the Indians. It matters not where sovereignty resides, whether, in an individual as in England, or in the whole people, as in America, if it exerts itself for the good of the Indians. As a father should not retain his authority over his children, and leave them to entire independence, and consequently to perish, so neither this country, nor England should retain a sovereignty over the Indians, and not provide for their happiness — not take immediate measures to diffuse tne benefits and blessings of civilization among them. As it respects Oregon, both countries claim, and either is competent to hold a sovereignty over it. In determining, however, to which belongs the preference, regard must be paid to the circum- stances of the first discovery. 4 I: THE FIRST DISCOVERY AND POSSESSION OREGON TERRITORY. OF THE In order, justly to determine the nation invested with the right of sovereignty over the Oregon country, it is necessary to inquire by whom it was first di^ overed, and what disposition lias been made I ^••■ 12 of the benefits of the discovery. After the immor- tal Columbus had found a new world of undiscov- ed countries, and had made plain a highway for adventurers to it, a spirit of discovery seemed to pervade the Spanish and Portuguese nations. The subjugation of the Mexican empire which followed, gave a new spur, and additional facilities to their enterprises. Spain early commenced a series of discoveries on the West Coast of America, most of which were unknown to other nations till after Capt. Cook's voyages. In 1513, Balboa discover- ed t lie western side of the isthmus of Panama. In 152(j, Cortes, the great conqueror of Mexico, dis- covered Calafornia. In 1540, the Viceroy of Mexico sent Vasquez, on discoveries to the north. This person penetrated the interior,, as far as 40° North. Other important discoveries were made of the western shores of North America, in the following order. -' - ^ , . Cabrillo, in 1542 ; Francisco Gualli, in 1582 ; John De Fuca, in 1592 ; Sebastian Viziaino, in 1602; De Fonta, in 1640 ; Capt. Perez, in 1774 ; Heceta, in 1775; these all were in the service of Spain, and all made discoveries on or near the coast of Oregon. Both De Fuca Straits, in latitude 48° 5' N. and the Columbia, in latitude 46° lO' N. were among the places discovered. This river was named, on the Spanish charts, St. Roc. Captain James Cook, in 1778, on a voyage patronized by the English government, and the first voyage ever attempted, by that nation, if we except that of Sir Francis Drake, who, 200 years before, had been in latitude 44° N. made a landing at Nootka, and thence sailed to the north west. Thus, between latitude 44° and 49° N., no English vessel had ever touched. This great navigator made search for the famed De Fuca straits, and not finding them, he noted in his journal, that the account given by De Fuca must be fabulous, that there could be no such straits. 13 Captain Cook made no discoveries south of 57° N. The history of his last voyage having been published in England, and the rich fur trade with the Indians on the North West Coast, being known to the world, English, Spanish, American and Rus- sian navigators thronged the coast. Invited by the great profits in this trade, America, in 1787, com- menced her discoveries, explorations and posses- sions, which gave her, aside of the ^purchase from France, and the deed of Spain, a clear right to the Oregon country. Joseph Barrell, Crowel Hatch, Charles Bulfinch, and others, all of Boston, in 1787, planned a voyage of trade and discovery to the North West Coast. For this purpose, they fitted out two vessels ; one a ship of about 250 tons, call- ed the Columbia Redivina; the other a sloop of 100 tons, called the Washington. Captains John Kendrick and Robert Gray, were appointed to the command of these vessels. They sailed on the first day of October, patronized by Congress '»nd the State of Massachusetts. The Columbia, arrived at Nootka, on the 16th of September 1788. The Washington soon after. In 1789, Captain Gray, entered the long lost straits of De Fuca, which he explored, 60 miles, into the interior. Before leav- ing the coast, these vessels exchanged their masters. Don Esteven Joze Martenez, with two Spanish shiDS of war, arrived ; and finding some British ves- sels under Portuguese colours, demanded the reason of their being in his Most Catholic Majesty's re- gions. They replied for wood and water. Had th 3y not been conscious of trespassing on Spanish rights, they would not have appeared under false colours or dissembled their real objects. The Spanish subjects had maintained a settlement at this place for fifteen years. The Columbia, after extending her voyage to Canton, returned to Boston. Again, she sailed for the North West Coast, and on the 5th of June, 1791, entered Clayoquot, which place in the former ! I 'I II '1 \-' ,\- 14 voyage, was called Hancock's harbour. The Indian Chief, Cleshinah, informed Captain Gray, that a Spanish vessel was then there, and that no British vessel had been seen since those captured. Cap- tain Kendrick, arrived at Clayoquot, on the 29th of August, having bought of the natives, their landed estates laying South 240 miles on the coast, paying them in muskets, iron, copper and clothing. In March, 1,792, Captain Gray left this place, and on the 11th of May, while sailing snug to the coast, in latitude 46° 19' N. he discovered and en- tered one of the largest and most beautiful rivers in North America. He named it after his ship, Columbia. Vancouver, who was at this time at Nootka, receiving from Captain Gray, information of this river, sent his first lieutentant to survey its mouth. In 1803, the United States ordered an expedition under the command of Captains Merre- weather Lewis and William Clark, to explore, from its source to the ocean, this majestic river. They took formal possession of it, and built at its mouth, Fort Clotsop. We ought not to omit mentioning the possession and occupancy of the shores of the Columbia, by John Jacob Astor, a public spirited and enterpris- ing merchant of the city of New York. He con- templated a permanent occupation of the country, and sent out, in 1810, a company of one hundred and twenty men, well supplied with provisions and seeds of every kind. The following account of it, is derived from a state paptT. " This little colony consisted of an hundred and twenty men, when it arrived in the Columbia; and after ascertaining its soundings, they removed, some miles above Fort Clotsop, and built the town of Astoria, where a portion of them cultivated the soil, whilst the others engaged in the fur tVade with the natives. The soil was found to be rich, and well adapted to the culture of all the useful veget- ables found in any part of the United States ; such e . ;h d 15 as turnips, potatoes, onions, rye, wheat, melons of various kinds, cucumbers, and every species of peas. In the course of a year or two, it was be- lieved their interest would be promoted by culti- vating and securing the friendship and confidence of the tribes inhabiting the waters of that great river ; to which end, the town of Astoria was main- tained by about thirty men, whilst the rest estab- lished themselves at five other points, to become fixed stations, to raise their own vegetables, trade with the natives, and receive supplies of merchan- dize from the general depot at Astoria, and to return to it the fruits of their labour. One of these subordinate establishments appear to have been at the mouth of Lewis's river ; one at Lantou ; a third on the Columbia, six hundred miles from the ocean^ at the confluence of the Wantana river, a fourth on the east fork of Lewis's river, and th e fifth on the Multnomah." It is a fact, too notorious to be controverted, that England made no pretensions to rights in this coun- try, till about the commencement of the late American war with her, when she had fully dis- covered its vast resources of wealth, and its advan- tages, so valuable for the possession of an agricul- tural, a manufacturing and a commercial people. In 1739, she made a public recognition of the Spanish rights to it, and treated with that nation for certain privileges on the coast. Mr. Burk, an English historian, in his account of the European settlements in America, written in 1761, acknowledges the right of Spain to all the known territory on the west side of North Ameri- ca. " The Spaniards, as they first discovered the Continent, have the largest and richest share in it All that part of it, which composes the isthmus of Mexico, and what lies beyona that, towards the river Mississippi on the east, the Pacjfic ocean to theWest and North-west ; and they possess all South America excepting Brazil." On a map attached it) ■• 'li fci ■ I i (. s to this work, "drawn from the best modern maps and charts, by Eman Bowen, Geographer to his Majes- ty," the Spanish possessions are laid down; they are made to extend to latitude 44° N. Above this latitude is written "parts undiscovered." It fol- lows of course, that England knew nothing of the ter- ritory laying between 42° and 49° N. latitude, and we have shown that the Spanish nation previous to this bad discovered, by John De Fuca, the great inland seu or straits ; and by another navigator, the grand river of the west. The fact of which discove- ry is clearly established, there being a river, called Saint Koc, corresponding to the Columbia, and in the same latitude, drawn on the Spanish charts of those times. Capt. Mears, in his voyage of 1788, after having been disappointed in his search for this river, re- marks, that " the name of Cape Disappointment was given to the promontory, and the bay obtained the title of Deception bay. By an indifferent meridian observation, it lies in the lat. of 46° 10' N. We can now with safety assert, that no such river as that of Saint Roc exists, as laid down in the Spanish charts ; to those of Maurelle, we made continual reference, but without deriving any information or assistance from them." The Spanish nation, from motives of policy, kept for a long time from a knowledge of the world, their discoveries in the western ocean. No clearer tes- timony need be deduced to the entire ignorance of the English concerning this country, than the cir- cumstance of a river called Oregon, marked in a dotted line as unexplored, being laid down on Capt. Cook's chart, published in 1791, and made to enter into De Fuca straits. Sufficient has been said to convince the candid, that the English nation has no invested rights in this country ; and that the American, by her own public acts in the country itself, has done enough to estab- lish a claim to it, paramount to that of any other IT nation but Spain, who quitclaimed to America, in 1819, all her rights and benefits derived from first discoveries. The Louisiana country, whose western boundary- should be identified with the shore of the Pacific ocean, was first the possession of France, by her ceded, in 1763, to Spain. This nation, by the treaty of St. Ildefonso, retroceded the same country to France ; and France conveys it to America, in 1803, by the treaty of Paris. The United States will, therefore, consummate her title to the territory, when she has purchased it of the Indians, the lords and the rightful proprietors of the forest. FACE OF THE COUNTRY. The country is, generally, uneven. The moun* tains are high and rough, and wholly unfeasible for cultivation. The hills within two hundred miles of the sea-coast are formed by gentle ascents, and are abundantly covered with forests of heavy tim- ber. Those more remote are rugged and rocky, and sometimes sterile. ^ An undulating surface of territory, or a surface chiefly broken into hills and mountains is, in almost every consideration, preferable to one that is level ; because the former abounds with springs and rivers of pure water ; consequently, the air is more salubrious, and the country better furnished with natural facilities for the application of labour. How much more valuable then, for settlement, in this respect, is the Oregon country, than the Floridas, New Orleans, and much of the Texas, tracts of earth, which exibit one unvaried surface of cham- paign ; where the water is only pure, while falling from the clouds ; where the stagnant pools and ponds charge the atmosphere with deathful mias- mata. This putrid affluvia, generated in abundance from the slimy beds and borders of marshes laying under a vertical sun, adds more thay one half to the bill of mortality. , 3 ' . M i f " i: i p.] I 18 Tlie pliiiim ami prairies, which intersperse the whole Oregon territory, are extensive, and are ver- dant with grass and shrubbery of luxuriant growth. The low lands are, for ten months in twelve, dressed in green ; while here and there is seen a mountain, whose snow-clad towering top makes more agrcea})le the contrast, and displays in greater variety, the beauteous landscape. Much of the sea-shore is made of high irregular piles of rocks, which extend along the strand like a wall, rising in some places fifty, and in others one hundred feet, in perpendicular projecting cliffs. It occasionally falls to a sandy beach. In such places, wliicli are most frequent between the en- trances of the Columbia river and De Fuca straits, the land, as it recedes gradually, rises to the sum- mit level of the country. Nearly the whole extent of shore, South of the Columbia, is compact and composed of bluff rocks, back of which, from 40 to 60 miles in width, the country is level, or agreeably diversified with verdant hills, and appears like a continued forest, as far as the eye can reach. The country East of mounts Baker and Ranier, is not sufficiently known, to justify any description of it CLIMATE AND SEASONS. The climate between latitude 40° and 60^^ N. and on the western side of the Rocky Mountains, is remarka])ly mild ; and Providence in this gift, Especially, has made Oregon the most favoured spot of His beneficence. If any part of this coun- try is more salubrious in climate than another, it is the great plains at the foot of the mountains. These plains are less subject to rains ; more remote from the sea, and better sheltered by stupendous mountains. Nevertheless it is warmer on the coast. The many lofty mountains situated in a high lati- tude, reflecting from their southern declivities the t; . . m rays of tlie sun with tlie greatest ell'ect, and protect- ing the country from the cold winds of the North, and from the violence of the storms of the South- east, greatly meliorate the atmosphere, and pro- duce that surprising difference between the cli- mates on the western and eastern sides of the American Continent. The frost seldom appears till January, and then it is so slight, as scarcely to freeze over a pond, or still water, or to impede, on low grounds, the pro- fress of vegetation. The oldest Indians have never nown their bays entirely frozen over. During the winter, which is short, and ends in February, two or three inches of snow occasionally fall ; but the first meridian sun dissipates the white cover- ing, and makes more conspicuous the green. Mer- cury seldom falls to freezing point, and never below. It has been very justly remarked, that the severity of the weather, is better determined by the quantity of water that falls, than by its con- gelation. In the neighbourhood of the mouth of the Columbia, rains are frequent in the winter. They commence with the South-east winds about the first of December, and terminate the last of February, when benign Spring has made some advance " the singing of birds has come," and Na- ture dresses again in her loveliest garb. In April, a mild summer heat obtains, shrubbery is in blos- som, and vegetation proceeds briskly. In June all kinds of mild fruit are ripened, and weather, de- lightfully pleasant, succeeds. • MOUNTAINS. -' • • * The mountains are numerous, and peculiarly con- spicuous and sublime, in the physical appearance of this country. Besides the Rocky mountains and their western spurs, of which we shall take no particular notice, in this short sketch, there are two ranges ; each is broken into detached ridges ; some laying parallel^ ti ■ " ' fr^ !i ,! ; ( .1 |j ■ 90 and others oblique to a line of the coast. They rise to peaks of various heights and forms. The loftiest of which are clad with snow the whole year. The first range consists of low broken moun- tains, laying about 70 miles from the ocean, nearly N. W. and S. E. This range terminates a few miles North of the Columbia river. The other range stretches through the whole ter- ritory ; and is a continuation of the table lands of Mexico. Between 46^ and 50°N. it is nearly par- allel to, and 150 miles distant from the ocean. South of 46^ N. it recedes from the ocean, and, in lat..42°, is more than 300 miles distant from it. The principal summits or peaks, are mounts Baker, Kanier, St. Hellen, Hood, Jefferson and Olympus. These all but the latter, rise from the last mentioned range. Mount Olympus is in lat. 47^ N. about 30 miles from the ocean. It is lofty, and stands on a broad base of elevated hills, which descends to clifis fall- ing perpendicularly on a sandy beach, both on the side of De Fuca straits and the ocean. The sides of this mountain are mostly covered with trees, which have grown up between the rocks to a great size. Mount Baker stands in a higher latitude, and about 20 nailes East of the most eastern point of De Fuca straits. Its sides are formed of rude and huge piles of rocks, which seem to rise, in naked defcrmity, one above another. Its summit is cov- ered with snow. On its southern extremity, rests mount Ranier. This is not so high as Baker. It has more verdure on its sides, and less snow on its top. St. Hellen is the most remarkable of all the mountains in Western America. It is situated amidst a fertile country ,'about 40 miles North of the Columbia river, and rises with a naked and bold front to a stupendous height. Its hoary head is lifted into regions of perpetual frost, above the 91 sports of whirlwinds, or the darts of vengeful light- nings. It stands Nature's erected beacon, and meets the view of the mariner, far remote upon the waters of the great deep. Mount Hood, called by the Indians, Timm, is in latitude 45° N. and about 50 miles South of the great falls of the Columbia. It rises in the form of a sugar loaf to a considerable height. Its top is destitute of trees and covered with snow. Jefferson, is in lat. 44°, and like the mountains, St. Hellen and Hood, is a regular cone. Its sides are thinly wooded, but its summit is apparently destitute of every thing, but rocks and snow. There is a mountain of considerable elevation, bearing S. E. about 50 miles distant from the junc- tion of Clarke's and the Columbia river. This mountain having been first discovered by Lewis and Clarke, may, with just propriety, be called after them. There are other mountains, identified among the most prominent features of the southern section of the country. Of these we shall not attempt a de- scription. Over-awed by the bold and majestic? heights of these mountains, the surrounding hills seem to shrink into littleness, and to become less worthy of notice. However, we shall give some account of them, under the natural divisions, into which the country is divided. NATURAL DIVISIONS. The Oregon territory is naturally divided into four districts, by lines running nearly parallel with the coast. Each district is from 50 to 200 miles in width. Under these divisions, respectively, we shall take a more particular view of the physical appearance of the country. If It i -'I 'r i -I n !; ;*»; 2:2 ; t FACE OF THE COUNTRY, AND SOIL. I. The first district be ders on the ocean, and is from fifty to seventy miles in width, and terminates about 30 miles North of the Columbia river. It is generally uneven, and vrell wooded. That section of it North of the river, is divided into lawns and plains, and high and. steep hills, chiefly covered with trees of the pine and fir species. The bottom lands are almost impenetrable, by reason of under- growth and fallen timber. Along the shores of the Columbia, the hills oc- casionally recede, and leave rich and extensive prairies, or thickly wooded plains. On the north of Baker's bay, and back of a wide spread beach, are a number of ponds usually filled with water-fowl ; farther back is an extensive tract of low, open and marshy land, interspersed with copses of pine, spruce, alder, &c. It is said that on the hills, at the head of Chennook river, in this neighbourhood, pine trees, three or four feet through, are seen grow- ing on the fallen trunks of others, which are in some degree sound. The eastern border of this district consists of a broken range of low mountains, which in some places descend to hills, whose gentle declivities ex- hibit charming prospects of verdure, and spread into beautiful and extensive plains. The river lands are sometimes low and marshy, but generally they are high and thickly covered with a heavy growth of timber. The lands on the coast are formed of hills and ravines, varied with plains and prairies. Clark's Point of View, is more than ten hundred feet high, and deserves to be classed among the mountains. The following is I-.ewis and Clark's account of it. " We proceeded to the top of the mountain, the highest point of which is an open spot facing the •ocean. It is situated about thirty miles South-east «;sf»!a^-: td and is ainates That ) lawns overed bottom under- ills oe- tensive e north ich, are r-fowl ; >en and f pine, hills, at urhood, [i grow- n some sts of a n some ies ex- spread narshy, overed on the d with undred ng the Clark's dn, the ng the th-east of Cape Disappointment, and projects nearly two and a half miles into the sea. Here one of the most delightful views in nature presents itself. Imme- diately in front is the ocean, which breaks with fury on the coast, against the highlands and irregular piles of rocks, which diversify the shore. To this boisterous scene, the Columbia, with its tributary waters, widening into bays as it approaches the ocean, and studded on both sides with the Chin- nook and Clotsop villages, forms a charming con- trast ; while immediately ' eneath our feet, are stretched the rich prairies, enlivened by three beau- tiful streams, which conduct the eye to small lakes at the foot of the hills." There is no part of this district, excepting the mountains and sunken lands, which does not furnish a good soil and many local advantages for cultiva- tion. This country is remarkably uneven. And it is the hills, next in importance to the soil, that render this country the most favourable to the con- venience and comforts of an agricultural people,, and to the increase of their species. The soil on the high hills, both in the East and West sections of this district, is often thin and stony. Tt is likewise thin on most sandy plains ; but a great depth of rich alluvial earth is found in the valleys. From one to two feet of mould may, generally, be found on low or level lands, which, from the great deluge, if not from the beginning of creation, have been thickly covered with heavy wood ; the roots and trunks onl}', of which, when decayed,, must form a considerable depth of vegetaljle earth. II. The second district includes the Multnomah valley, and most of the country between the Colum- bia and De Fuca straits. It is bounded on the West, by the first district and the ocean ; and on the East, by that range of mountains which crosses the Columbia, at the Grand rapids. It varies in breadth from 50 to 150 miles. , . ] ! I 11 24 The mountains on the eastern side are principally composed of rocks, and are, sometimes, barren and naked on their sides. There are, in this district, many rich and exten- sive plains, well timbered, and many prairies stretch- ing out from the banks of the rivers. Vancouvre says of the country South of De Fuca, and bordering on the ocean, that " it presented a most luxuriant landscape. The more interior parts were somewhat elevated, and agreeably diversified with hills, from which they gradually descended to the shore and terminated in a sandy beach. The whole had the appearance of a continued forest ex- tending as fiir as the eye could reach." About the straits, there are some rocky and bar- ren hills, which, however, abundantly atone for their unpleasant appearance by the many fine caves and bays they form ; most of which are safe and commodious basins for sheltering vessels of any burthen. Capt. Gray and Vancouvre, in 1792, made sur- veys of these straits. The latter, particularly, made an excursion into the country. He says, " the shores, on either side, are of a moderate height ; that on the South is composed of low sandy cliffs falling upon beaches of sand and stone. From the top of these cliffy eminences, the land appears to take a further gentle ascent, artd is entirely covered with trees, chiefly of the pine tribe, till the forest reaches a range of high craggy mountains. To the North-west, was an extended meadow, bordered on one side by a coppice of pine trees and shrubs of various sorts, that seemed as if it had been plant 1 for the sole purpose of protecting from the winds of that quarter, this delightful spot, over which were scattered trees, that would have puzzled the most ingenious designer of pleasure grounds to have ar- ranged more agreeably." Beacon Rock stands on the bed of the Columbia, at the foot of the Grand rapids, and rises to the {4 1 :;i / S5 great height of 700 feet above the water, and ter- minates in a peak. B6th banks of the river, for the distance of fif- teen or twenty miles below the rock, are formed by high, steep and rocky hills, frequently present- ing bold and stupendous precipices, covered with fir and white cedar. From these heights fall beau- tiful cascades. " A large creek descends from a perpendicular rock 300 feet, while other smaller streams precipitate themselves from a still greater elevation, and evaporating in a mist, again collect and form a second cascade before they reach the bottom of the rocks." The whole breadth of this district, South of the Columbia, for sixty miles, to a range of mountains, which crosses the Multnomah, exhibits one contin- ued scene of forest and fertility. Beyond these mountains, the country stretches into a vast level plain, destitute of timber. That part of this district, included between this range of mountains, and the Columbia, is called the Multnomah valley ; concerning which, Lewis and Clarke say, that " it is a fertile and delightful coun- try, shaded by thick groves of tall timber. The soil is rich, and capable of any species of culture. The high lands are, generally, of a dark rich loam, not much injured by stones, and though waving, by no means too steep for cultivation." It is the concurrent testimony of the many, who have explored the country, both about De Fuca, and the Columbia, that the top soil is a deep black mould ; that the forests are heavy and extensive ; and the trees are of vast dimensions; and vegeta- tion, generally, is luxuriant to a degree unknown in any other part of Americ^; and we can add, that there are physical causes to render the climate the most heathful in the world. The account, which we have received of this section of the country, is authenticated by a multitude of persons, whose i i'f fj I 1 1 ' ■ I ;, u i i. r. 26 respectability and intelligence entitle them to the fullest confidence. The soil in the valley, appears to be a black vegetable mould, incumbent on a sub-soil of clay and sand, and perhaps, a portion of alumine, of so close a compact, as to form a hard-pan ; this, like a bottom of clay alone, gives the soil above it, a greater degree of fertility, and thereby, better sus- tains the growth and health of vegetation. Indeed, trees are found here, of that astonishing size, to which nothing but a soil of great fecundity could give growth. This valley is particularly designed, through the consent of its sovereign country, for the peaceful residence and possession of the contemplated Ore- gon Colony. In the choice of a tract of earth, for the use of an industrious and agricultural people, it is desirable to find the hills covered with forests, and the plains and valleys fertile, and naturally suited to cultivation. Vegetation on the latter, is sheltered, and more certain. It is there, protected from oblique winds ; nourished by a rich soil, and warmed by a congenial heat, reflected from the sides of hills. Hills themselves, make the best of wood-lands ; trees, on them, grow to a larger size than on low lands, and the proprietor can more easily get from them his supply of fuel. To strip them entirely of their growth, deteriorates the grounds below, and exposes them more to cold winds, and destroying frosts; and withholds that fertilizing wash, which the forest, from its decayed leaves, and other putrescences, abundantly yields. In these respects, this country will be found exact- ly accommodated to the interest of its future culti- vators. III. The third district, succeea the last men- tioned, on the East; and extends easterly about 200 miles, to the junction of Kooskooskee and Lewis rivers, and to the range of mountains, which divide the waters of the Lewis, and the Multnomah. It 27 is terminated on the South, at the point, where these mountains bound the second district on the East. It is extremely mountainous on the western bor- der. Many of the ridges are high, broken and barren ; nevertheless, the scenes from them are, often, delightfully enlivened by beautiful cascades, falling down their heights, and murmuring along rocky channels, through the deep forei^ts that darken their sides. Between the Grand rapids, and the Groat Falls, in the vicinity of the river, the hills are rocky and thinly wooded. Farther remote, both to the North and South, they are shaded with thick groves of tall timber. Beyond the falls, for a great distance, wood entirely disappears, except^ing on the banks of creeks and rivers, and on the bottoms sj)reading from them. These bottom lands are distinguished for being the resort of horses ; ?nd, when found not too low, evince by their spontaneous productions, their great fertility ; and that, they are capable of rewardins: the labour of the husbandman, with more than a comfortable subsistence. The hills from the falls, to Younuilolam rirer, are naked, and close both sides of th?? Columlna ; in some places, rising i'rom the 1 anks, 200 or 300 feet, and presenting a perpendicular surface of black rock. From this, to the great bend in the river, the hills retire to the distance of seven or eight miles, leaving low, level and rich plains. The banks of the small rivers, generally, spread out into fertile meadows and plains, w ith uplands bordering on them, covered with trees, as stately as can be found in any country. From tVie foot of the great falls, to the eastern boundary of this district, and through its whole length, the country is nearly one continued open and undulating plain, on whose vast surface, scarce- ly a single tree grows. Yet the soil is good, and abundantly productive ; and the eye is refreshed with cheering prospects of a verdant covering (;.f 1 i I: 'i . '■' i ! II h i t t.j 28 grass, and herds of animals, not iinfrequently the horse, grazing or sporting upon the gentle sloping hills. Contiguous to the confluence of the Lewis, with the Columbia river, there is a plain about fifteen miles in extent, whose surface is a sandy and sterile soil, producing but little herbage of any kind. If, in this district, the eye, sometimes, glances upon a bed of naked rocks, or barren sand ; it is, on all quarters, attracted to delig4uful landscapes of hills, and dales and verdure. How the trees should have become exterminated, root, branch and seed, from places of great fertility, is not certainly known. There are, however, many strong reasons to believe it, the peculiar and habit- ual practice of the Indians, from time immemorial, in burning over the plains : First, for the purpose of an earlier and more luxuriant crop of grass, that animals sooner, and in greater herds, may be induc- ed to visit these fertile pastures. Second, for the purpose of catching the antelope, buffalo, &c. In the dry season of the year, when the grass and shrubbery will best burn, and the plains are filled with grazing animals, the native hunters construct snares in the defiles of the adjacent mountains. On the windward side, they proceed to kindle fires. The affrighted animals flee to these defiles, and are there, caught. Third, on occasions of jubilees, or of war, when it . is necessary to assemble different tribes, or distant parts of the same tribe ; or of mi- gration to some other part of the country. It is a practice of most all the tribes, West of the Rocky mountains, to seek in the fall, a residence more suit- able for winter quarters. Fourth, in order to bring fair ' eather. The Copunnish tribe set fire to the woo in beha' of Lewis and Clark, to secure for their j jurney, a more propitious sky. It is said by them, that the woods conjsisted chiefly of tall fir trees, with very numerous dried branches; the blaze was almost instantaneous, and as the flame -s^i i 29 mounted to the tops of the highest trees, resembled a splendid display of fire-works." IV. The fourth district extends to the Eastern boundary of the Oregon country. It includes the whole western declivity of the Rocky mountains, and a tract lying at their base, 50 miles in width. This tract is generally uneven, and free from stones. It is extremely fertile, but not abundantly supplied with timber. The lands in the vicinity of Kimoenim river, are composed of a dark rich loam. The hills are high, and the bottoms are narrow, and furnish excellent pastures, and the abundant productions of a good soil. Lewis and Clarke say, of the country along the foot of the mountains, that "for several hundred miles in length, and about fifty in breadth, it is a high level plain, in all its parts, extremely fertile, and in many places covered with a growth of tall pine. This plain is mostly interrupted near the streams of water, where the hills are steep and lofty ; but the soil is good, being unincumbered by much stone, and possessing more timber than the level country. Under the shelter of these hills, the low lands along the margin of the rivers, though narrow and confined, are still fertile, and rarely inundated. Nearly the whole of this wide spread tract, is cov- ered with a profusion of grass and plants." There are three flats, called Quamash. One is situated on a river of the same name, near its en- trance into Clarke's river. One at the head of the Copunnish, and the other at the junction of this river, with the Kooskooskee. They are handsome plains, from one to four miles in extent, richly sup- plied with quamash, and excellent root, which largely contributes to the support of the Indians in in that section of the country. The whole valley of Clarke's river, which is from ten to fifteen miles wide, and stretches nearly to the summit of the mountains, is the best of land for i 1-1 30 cultivation, if wc except a section of it in the North, which is low, wet and cold. It is, for the most part, well watered and wooded, and is in some places, beautifully diversified with open plains, and with streams of water pouring from the bold heights skirting on its West. The Cakalahishkit valley, about fifteen miles in length, is similar, in the char- acter of its soil, to Clarke's valley. It is called the Prairie of the Knobs, from the circumstance of the many knobs scattered over it. Hot Spring valley is a fine plain, laying at the head of the N. Fork of Lewis river, and watered by Fish creek. It extends N. and S. about fifteen miles, and is thirty miles in length, and surrounded on all sides by high mountains. The soil is exceed- ingly fertile, and produces for the natives a great supply of excellent roots and herbs. The summit of the Rocky mountains, is in most parts, a cold, barren waste of uneven surface, profusely scattered over with bluff rocks, or for most of the year, is covered with snow from ten to fifteen feet deep. The Oregon country, wheth- er considered in the whole, or in the parts, into which it has been, here, divided, must be acknowl- edged superior in mildness of climate, to all others ; and to be enriched with every variety of soil, and to yield every species of production, which are necessary to prove it valuable for the purposes of an agricultural people. When, therefore, a civ- ilized and enlightened nation, shall have introduced into this wilderness country, the various business and benefits of science and art, and shall have cul- tivated with patient and faithful industry, the herit- age of God, neglected by the savage, and desolated by his indolence and sottish ignorance ; when the enterprise of man, shall have planted in it, villages and towns ; when his industry shall have caused its fields to wave, for his use, with the golden harvest ; when nsture, thus improved and embellished by (.J 31 art, shall yield to him its own beneficence and de- lights, then will it become the loveliest and most envied country on earth. RIVERS, FALLS AND RAPIDS. The Oregon country is well watered. Its rivers are numerous ; some of them are large and naviga- ble ; nearly all of them, unite their copious tributes to form the grand Columbia, This river is one of the largest in North America, and will become the most valuable on this continent ; valuable, because it is conveniently interspersed with extensive and fertile islands, and abounds with fish of the best kinds ; valuable^ because it is in the centre of the commercial and trading world, — opens into a valua- ble country, connects every part of it, by natural canals, and is navigable for vessels of large burden, all seasons of the year, free of ice, or any other ob- struction. It is six miles wide at its mouth, yet a boy may bestride its princ^ipal source, at a distance less than 600 miles from the ocean. It traverses and waters by its numerous branches, the whole length and breadth of the Oregon territory. It commences in latitudes 41° and 52° N. from rippling rills, which, thus remote from each other, hastens and murmurs, down the declivities of the Rocky mountains ; each forming in its riotous course, as beautiful cascades as ever attracted admiration. At the foot of the mountains, different streams unite, and flow in broader channels ; and arriving at the middle of the country, and breaking through the high lands, by the confluence of their angry floods, they produce one of the most remarkable and sublime water-falls in nature. The Columbia, at the dis- tance of 175 miles from the sea, and near the foot of the Grand rapids, meets the tide-water. It here assumes a new character, and commences a new career. It meanders in slow, silent and majestic grandeur, through hills and forests, and lawns ; and I : 'i, 3:2 having beautified and lertilized 250,000 square miles of territory, it is received into the bosom of its kindred ocean. The moutli of this river, is spacious, and easy of ingress, affording good anchorage, and a number of safe and commodious harbours. Its entrance is by no means so dirticult, as was represented by the early and imperfect surveys of Vancouver. There are flats or sand bars, which extend from Point Adams, on the South, nearly across the en- trance ; but over these flats, there are no less than iiO feet water at low tide. The ship channel, which lies snug to Cape Disappointment, on the North, gives no less than 24 feet at low water. It has been before observed, that the tide sets up 175 miles. It rises, at Cape Disappointment, about 9 feet, and its reflux, at this place is, generally, in tlie spring, five or six knots per hour. The mouth of the river has been particularly surveyed, by Capt. Joshua Nash, who has politely furnished the following directions, for sailing into and crossing the river for fort George, or Astoria, which place is situated on the South side, about fourteen miles from the ocean. Directions for sailing into, arid crossing the Colum- bia River, for Fort George, or Astoria. ' " Bring Chenoke point to bear N.E. by E. at any distance, not less than 4 leagues, and steer for it, until Cape Disappointment bears North, then run for the eastern part of Cape D. and pass it at a J of a mile distance, and when the southern part of it bears W. J S. you may steer nearly East, keeping Chenoke Point, a little open on the larboard bow ; this will clear the Spit bank, and bring the ship into a fine channel, of 6, 9, 12 and 13 fathoms, (should the wind be ahead, you may work up .for Cape Disippointment, standing to the westward, until the ('ape bears N.N.E. J E. and to the east- ward, until it bears N. J W. in a good channel,) 83 when abreast of Chenoke Point, haul in for Point Ellice, and pass it at i cable's length, when you may bring it to bear, S. J S. and steer E. by N. J N. until the Red Cliff bears N.W. J W. ; then steer for the low land, to the southward of Tongue Point, until two trees, which stand above the rest of the high woods, to the South, are directly over the middle of three trees, that stand near the water, between two red patches ; then run for them until you shut a bluff point of sand upon the river, into Tongue Point ; then steer for port George, till an old white stump, or withered tree, bears S. E. by S. J S. ; then haul in shore, till two trees on the high land, to the N.E. shut just on to Tongue Point, and keep them so, and you may anchor at Fort George, in 7 fathoms mud." There are but few places, that can be so easily and completely secured against the hostile attempts of an enemy. Let cape Disappointment be forti- fied, and no enemy's vessel can pass, or having pass- ed, can escape destruction ; because, after passing the bar, to avoid the breakers, it is obliged to bear up, directly to the cape, and come close in to the shore. Thus even a small bfittery erected on this point, in conjunction with the surges on the oppo- site side, would greatly endanger, if not effectually deter the approach of an invader, ever so bold or formidable ; while kindness and fair dealing, better than fortifications or armies, would be a sufficient protection for the interior. About 260 miles up this river, where it breaks through a range of high mountains, is a considera- ble fall. One mile and a half above this place, the river is reduced from a breadth of one mile, to that of one hundred and fifty yards, and the channel is much divided by islands, and choked by large rocks. The first perpendicular pitch is 20 feet ; another soon succeeds, of eight feet. For a quarter of a mile, including these pitches, where the river is only 70 yards wide, and its bed bestowed with ''I'! -I ' ■ 34 tremendous rocks, the waters tumble, and whirl, and roar with the wildest agitation. Below this, the river widens, and at the distance of two and a half miles, it spreads into a wide basin. At the extremity of this basin, a high perpendicular* rock extending from the northern shore, and approaching within forty yards of a hill on the opposite bank, seems almost to stop the passage. Through this narrow, and no doubt, deep channel, the waters of the Columbia force their way, and fall 38 feet. For three miles beyond this, the channel is from 50 to 100 yards wide, worn into a solid rock, and continues to swell and boil with fearful rage. Be- low this place, which is called the Great Falls, about 80 miles, is another considerable fall, called the Grand Rapids. Here the river, by its banks of perpendicular rocks, is compressed within a space of 150 yards; and the current, whichj falls] atjout twenty feet, in the course of 400 yards, is much obstructed by the large rocks laying on its bed. One mile and a half farther is another rapid, nearly of the same character, where the river is as narrow, but has a less descent. No full description, can be given of the Colum- bia, without considering its separate parts, those numerous tributaries, which so much enrich and adorn the fertile tracts they water. N. 1.* The first river deserving notice, is the Chinnook, It runs a circuitous and southerly course, of thirty or forty miles, through a low country, and empties itself into Baker's bay. N . 2. There is a creek, which opens into Baker's bay, and communicates with a number of ponds, usually the resort of numerous water-fowl. It is 300 yards wide, at high water. S. 3. J\retul is about thirty miles long, and runs into Meriwether bay. Lewis and Clarke, three * The figure refers to the River on the Map ; and the capital letter before it, shows the side of the main river, into which it enters. 35 miles up its western bank, built fort Clatsop, situat- ed on a beautiful eminence, shaded by a thick grove of lofty pine. S. 4. Kilhowanakil is the size of Netul, and runs pai'altel with it. It enters into the bay, near Astoria. S. 5. Kekemahke is a small river, that enters the Columbia, a few miles East of Kilhowanakil. , N. 6. Orchards is larger than either of the for- mer, and disembogues opposite Marshy islands. N. 7. Coweliskee is a considerable river. It is 150 yards wide, and navigable thirty or forty miles, for sloops. It rises in Mount Regnier, and dis- charges itself, three miles above a remarkable high, rocky knoll, the southern side of which, it washes in its course. N. 8. ChawahnahiookSy rises in Mount St. Hellen, runs southerly about 70 miles. It discharges a great quantity of water ; but the falls and rapids, a few miles above its mouth, entirely obstruct navigation. S. 9. Multnomah river receives its name, as do many others, from the Indians. Its origin is from the union oif two branches : one springing from a spur of the Rocky mountains, in lat. 41° N. ; the other issuing from Lake Timpanogos. It traverses about 500 miles through a country of extreme fer- tility, and empties itself into the Columbia, oppo- site Wappatoo island. The first part of the country through which it runs, is level and open ; but the last, and much the greater part, is covered with the thickest and loftiest forests on the globe. This river is 500 yards wide, and furnishes five or six fathoms of w ater at its mouth. Excepting a sand bar, immediately at its entrance, it is free of all ob- structions to navigation, 70 miles, to a place, where there are rapids, and considerable falls. This nav- igable section of the river, furnishes a number of delightful islands, and widens into bays, where ship- masters from the ocean might find secure and com- modious harbours. r • I ? '} :': f : It 1 B 36 There are nine branches to the Multnomah. 1. Clackamus. 4. Callahpoewah. 8. Timpanogos. N. 10. Seal river is 80 yards wide; it rises in St. Hellen, and discharges itself opposite White- brant island. It is very much obstructed with falls and rapids. Near its mouth, it overflows its banks, and forms several large ponds. S. 11. Quicksand river is nearly opposite Seal river, and extends to mount Hood, a distance of 40 miles. Although it is 300 yards wide, near its mouth, yet its, channel is not over 50 yards, and six feet deep. The banks of the river are low, and subject to being overflowed. Below the Grand rapids, there are three small streams, which enter the Columbia on the North. N. 15. Crusatte enters a little above the rapids. It has its source in St. Hellen, and is 60 yards wide. ' N. 16. Canoe is a deep, rapid creek, eighteen yards wide. S. 17. Lahieche rises near mount Hood, brings in its current great quantities of quicksand, and enters the Columbia, opposite Canoe creek ; and four miles above a beautiful cascade, formed by a brook, pitch- ing over a precipice rock, one hundred feet high. N. 18. Cataract derives its name from the nu- merous cataracts it produces. It is a considerable river, with a deep and rapid current. S. 19. Quenett is a small stream, and enters, im- mediately below the Great Falls. S. 20. Towarnahiooks disembogues above the falls, opposite a large island. It is two hundred yards wide, and contributes largely to the waters of the Columbia. It rices in the high lands, which give source to some of the branches of Lewis river ; forty miles from its mouth, it is joined by the Kies- howe, from mount Jefferson ; and fifeen miles further down, it receives the Skimhoox, from mount Hood. The country on its eastern bank, is destitute of wood. 37 S. 21. Lepage is a shallow river, 40 yards wide. Ten miles from this, up the Columbia, is a small stream on the South. Eight miles farther, on the same side, is another stream, neither of them is more than twelve vards wide. Four miles above the last, is z, brook, which falls in, on the North. S. 25. Youmalolam is a small river, about for+y yards wide, running through a rocky tract of coun- try, of a thin soil, and destitute of wood. S. 26. Wallawollah is a handsome stream of clear water, fifty yards wide, and six feet deep. It dis- charges itself, twelve miles below Lewis river. The hills, on both sides, are steep and rocky, and cover- ed with timber. Its bottoms are extremely fertile. 27. Lewis river has a vast number of sources issuing, every where, from the western side of the Rocky mountains, between latitudes 43^ and 48° North. The South fork rises from the same section of mountains, with the Multnomah, and with some of the waters of the Rio del Norte, La Platte, and Missouri ; which rivers run into the Atlantic ocean. On this branch, besides a great number of difiicult rapids, there is one fall, of considerable magnitude. The North fork is through a region of huge rocks, and lofty precipices. Twenty miles of its course is through a narrrw channel, worn out of a mountain, where the rocks on either side, rise perpendicularly, in some places, one hundred, in others, three hun- dred feet. This river, though 300 yards wide, and abundantly supplied with water, is for no consider- able distance, navigable for any thing, but small boats, its currents being rapid, and much obstructed by rocks. It discharges its waters into the Colum- bia, about fifteen miles above the Great bend. The country over its western borders, is open, and has the appearance of a rich soil ; that on its eastern, is generally uneven ; the high lands, are covered with timber, and the bottoms, with the productions of an exuberant fertility. This country, which consti- tutes a large part o^ the fourth district, has many '±h \ i"'>' ' II i r ' ':■ r i 'I 1 38 ■ advantages for a settlement, and is next in impor- tance to the Multnomah valley ; it exhibits many delightful landscapes, of hills, and dale, and verdure, variegated with every charm, which beautious na- ture can offer. The principal branches of the Lewis, are : 1. Drewyer's; 2. Kimoaenim; 7. Kooskooskee, remark- able for its rapids; 9. Willewah; 10. Innahar; 11. Colter's; 12. Copunnish ; 13. Collin's creek; 16. Fish creek ; 17. Horse-ater ; 18. Mulpah ; 19. Ta- kinpar ; 20. Portpellah ; 22. Nemo ; 23. Washle- mo ; 24. Shecomshenk ; 25. Shushpellaminemo ; 26. Timmoamen ; 33. Henry's ; 34. W iser's. N. 28. Tapteal is a l£&*ge river, which rises in mount Regnier, receives the Nocktock and Selatar, from the ^ orth, and discharges itself into the Colum- bia, seventeen miles above the mouth of the Lewis. E. 29. Basket-pot is a small river about forty yards wide, at its mouth. W. 30. Wohnahahcha is a considerable river. It has a course N. E. 120 miles, and empties itself, 20 miles above Basket-pot, on the opposite side. E. 31. darkens river rises in lat. 46° North. It takes some of its waters from the summit of the Rocky mountains, and after a rout, nearly in form of a semicircle, of 700 miles, and extending beyond the 49° of latitude, flows into the Columbia, 130 miles above the mouth of Lewis' river. Some of tiie head branches of this river, interlocks with those of the Missouri. It is, from a quarter to a half of a mile wide, the first fifty miles from its confluence with the vJolumbia ; its channel is deep, and but a little obstructed by rapids ; it waters a number of ex- tensive valleys, some of which, are not inferior in points of soil and cLarms of rural nature, to any other tract. West of the Rocky mountains. The principal branches of this river, are : 1. Lautaw is about 75 miles long, und flows from M^ayton lake. Twenty miles from the lake, it makes considerable falls ; ten miles farther down, it re- in 39 ceives a small . - ream, from the South. Ten miles still farther, it receives, on the North, a large river, called Kihianim, which has a course of 200 miles, parallel to, and 30 miles distant from Clarke's river. 3. Great Lake river is about 60 yards wide. It proceeds from a large lake, and flows into Clarke's river on the North. 6. Hohilpo has a course of fifty miles, nearly W. and enter Clarke's. 8. Inshepah, is a small river, from the East. 10. Cokahlahishketf is separated by a range of low hills, about ten miles wide, from Dear- born's river. For the distance of twenty miles, these two rivers run nearly parallel, but in oppo- site courses. The water of the one, finds its way into the Pacific ; that of the other, into the Atlan- tic ocean. 12. Travellers Rest, is a small creek, one branch of which, issues from a hot-spring. The head branches of the Missouri, which interlock with those of the Columbia, are: 35. Wisdom ; 36. Jefferson's ; 37. Madison's ; 39. Salt Fork; 40. Big River; 41. Maria's; 42. Bat- tle ; 43. Tansey ; 44. Medicine ; 45. Dearborn's ; 46. Smith's. 'Y'he principal rivers, which let into the sea. i! Pacooche rises in lat. 54° North; and after a southLi]^* course of 350 miles, enters Birch bay, the eastern extremity of De Fuca straits. This river discharges ;> large body of water, and is navigable for vessels, draAving twelve feet water, thirty miles, to an obstruction by falls. At or near these falls, the Hudson Bay Company have a trading settlement. 20, Caladonia is a small river, which falls into Poi't Gardner, twenty miles South of Tacooche. 14. Qiieenhithe is a sr lali river, which enters a bay of the same name, about thirty miles South of Cape I lattery. It is remarkable, for the massacre, in 1788, of a boat's crew of English sailors, be- longing to the ship. Imperial Eagle. i 40 H. Gray^s river is about fifty yards wide, rises in mount Olympus, and falls into Gray's harbour. The next river on the coast, worthy of notice, be- yond the Columbia, is 9. Clatsop, about twenty miles South of Point Adams. It is a beautiful river, with a bold, rapid current, 85 yards wide, and three feet deep, in its shallowest soundings. Ecola creek is thirty -five miles South of Point Adams. 8. Killamuck creek is twenty miles farther S, and is nearly as long as Clatsop river. 7. Killamuck rive: is a hundred yards wide, has no falls, and no difficui pids. It opens into Kil- lamuck bay, ten miles South of the creek of the same name, and forms a communication, for a considera- ble Indian trade, with the Multnomah valley ; there being a short portage from the head of this river^ to the Multnomah. There are other rivers. South of this point, emp- tying into the ocean ; but not enough is known, to give them a name, or a particular description. BAYS, HARBOURS, &c. 1. Berkley's Bay. 2. Port Discovery. 3. Hostility Bay. 4. Classet Bay. 5. Admiralty Inlet. 6. Puget's Sound. 7. Hood's Canal. 8. Port Orchard. 9. Possession Sound. 10. Port Susan. 11. Port Gardner. 12. Deception Passage. 13. Strawberry Bay. 14. Birch Bay. 15. Shoal-water ^^X- 16. Queenhithe Bay. 17. Gray's Harbour. 18. Baker's Bay. 19. Meriwether Bay. • 20. Killamuck Bay. 21. Gray's Bay. De Fuca straits, is in lat. 48° 34' North ; and re- ceives its name from Joan De Fuca, a Greek, who discovered it, A. D. 1592. This noble entrance is twenty miles wide, and maintains nearly the same width, and a course a little South of East, for the first sixty miles, when it narrows to about ten, at a 41 place called New Dergeness ; where is found good anchorage, as well as a good harbour. It extends about twenty miles farther, and then turns, nearly at right angles, on both sides; runs towards the Colunioia river, fifty miles, and north-westerly, nearly two hundred, till it opens again into the ocean. The soundings are, every where, deep and free from stones. Port Discovery, is situated near the north-wester- ly entrance of Admiralty inlet, in lat. 48° 7' N. Its name was derived from the ship Discovery, commanded by Vancouver, who first explored it. It is a fine and commodious harbour, about eight miles deep, affording, from ten to fifty fathoms sound- ings, and a muddy bottom. The entrance is form- ed by two capes, which are low, and opposite each other, extending in gentle descents, from high wood land cliffs ; leaving an opening of two and a half miles ; directly in front of which, is an island, in the form of a crescent, presenting its concave side to the harbour. It is called Protection, from its convenient location for giving protection to the harbour; from this circumstance, as well as the general appearance of the island, which is open and verdant, variegated with a copice of pinetrees, and richly bordered with shrubs and flowers, all agreeably arranged, it seems to be the finished work of art, rather than of nature. It is the con- viction of all, who have witnessed its natural ad- vantages, that the combined navies of the world, whatever be the tonnage of their ships, might sail through De Fuca straits, enter Port Discovery, and there moor, and find safety and comfort, from the violence of winds and waves. Berkley^s bay, is in lat. 49°, and derives its name from the British captain of the Imperial Eagle. It is extensive, and contains many islands, high and well wooded. Of the harbour, which is in the north-eastern part of the bay, and called Port Ef- fingham, Capt. Meares says, that ** it is sulFiciently 6 % i it ft if ■A' " i li'i 42 ) 1; t capacious to contain an hundred sail of ships, and so fortunately sheltered, as to secure them from any storm. The anchorage is also good, being soft mud." 3. Hostility bay is on the northern, and 4. Classet bay on the southern side of the entrance of De Fuca straits. Both are exposed to the sea. 13. Strawberry, and 14. Birch bays, are both in the eastern part of the straits. The latter, at the entrance of Tacooche river. 15. Shoal-water bay, is on the coast, and is made dilHcult of access, by the breakers, which extend across its mouth. It has from 5 to 15 feet sound- ings, over hard sand. 18. Baker^s bay, is a capacious opening, extend- ing from Cape Disappointment to Chennook Point, a distance of five miles ; and is five miles deep. — The eastern part of the bay, is much exposed to the sea, but between the mouth of Chennook river, and the back part of the cape, is found a sheltered harbour, with six fathoms water, and good bottom. - 19. Meriwether bay, is a deep opening, on the South side of the river, about four miles across its^ mouth. It receives, besides a number of small r» eeks, the two rivers, Netul and Kilhowanakel. The sand spits render it inaccessible to large ves- sels. Much of the shore is a sand}^ beach. The eastern part is beautifully covered with pebbles of every size and colour. 21. Gray's bay, laying on the easterly side of Point Ellice, furnishes deeper soundings, better shelter, and generally greater advantages for a har- bour ; and has a more desirable site for a port, than can be found on either side of the two other bays. 20. Killamuck bay, is on the coast, back of cape Look-out, about 60 miles South of point Adams. It receives at its head, Killamuck river, where it is open, and much exposed to heavy breakers. The lower part, which is ten miles from its entrance, at the sea, offers a spacious, safe and convenient har- bour for vessels of any burden. 43 It cannot be, that the Oregon country, so advan- tageously situated for a commerce with the whole world; so richly provided with hills and moun- tains, giving health to the atmosphere ; with a soil capable of yielding every needed comfort, and of sustaining to any extent, agricultural efforts ; with natural canals running in every direction ; with large rivers, supplying vast quantities of the best of fish and furs ; and at the termination of their navigable currents, accommodated with mill and manufacturing privileges ; with a sea coast, and with inlets, beautifully indented with bays and coves, safe and commodious for sheltering vessels of any burden, was made for no valuable end ! These j>ar- amount advantages are indications, that the Gop of nature has designed it for the great purposes and operations of heaven-born man. MINERALOGY. No part of this country has been, as yet, explor- ed, with the particular view of ascertaining its me- talic substances. And therefore, it is not known what ores the hand of Nature has deposited, either in the plains or mountains. There are reasons, however, for believing the country to possess its full proportion of the useful and precious metals. Pure malleable lumps of copper ore, have been seen in the possession of the Nootka Indians, re- ceived, as they say, in trfi(i(B,J?otti the natives farther northward. \ •* The Indians in all parts of the country, make use of the oxide of lead, a kind of coarse red paint. They likewise use a black pigment, in painting their bodies. Over this paint, they strew a glitter- ing sand, or pulverized rock, which contains parti- cles of gold. The Indians collect it from a bed of rock, of a whitish colour, at the bottom of a small river. Gold is sometimes found in an aggregate opaque mass of this colour, and, until reduced to a powder, makes no ostentation of its ru hes. Too 1:1 f I. i^ .**•-> 44 often have gold mines disappointed the hopes, and ruined the fortunes of those engaged in them, both individuals and nations. It is much to be desired that mines of this precious metal, in Oregon, may only be found in manufacturing buildings, store- houses, and in the cultivation of a rich soil. Tlie Spaniards, in 1789, opened a mine on an island,* in Nootka sound. Tlie miners were kept constantly at work, for some time, and no one suffer- ed to approach the island, but the soldiers ordered to guard it. Fossil coal, of an excellent quality, has been brought down the ('Olumbia, and exhibited at As- toria, by the Indians. It is, probably, found in the neighbourhood of Kooskooskee river. There is an extensive bed of clay between cape Disappointment and the entrance of Chennook river. There is also a vast bed of porcelain earth, near Clarke's Point of View ; the quality is not known ; no analysis or experiment ever having been made of it. Marrow-stone prevails about Port Discover}'. The yellowish white earth, so common at the mouth of the Columbia, is supposed to be clay marie, a fertilizing substance of much more beB?fit to an agricultural people, than a mountain of the precious and shining mineral. Free stone, in large quarries, is found at the head of Clarke's river. Brown flint stone and sand stone are found near the Great falls. Travellers believe that beds of pure lime stone exist, in different places, on the banks of the Columbia. The second and fourth districts furnish strong indications of this valuable material. MINERAL SPRINGS. Springs of this description, are found, in various parts of the country. The hot springs, on the North side of Traveller's Rest creek, issue from the interstices of a gray free-stone rock, constitut- ing the base of a hill. T^ Indians have constructed ^ 45 a dam across the run of one of these springs, so as to form a bath, which, those in the vicinity, are in the constant habit of using. Lewis and Clarke repre- sent the warmth of the hottest, to be equal to that of the hottest spring in Virginia. In a beautiful open plain, on Wisdom river, is another hot spring, " Its bed is fifteen yards in circumference, and composed of loose, hard stone, through which the water boils in great quantities. It is impregnated with sulphur, and so hot that a piece of meat, the size of three fingers, was com- pletely cooked in twenty-five minutes." THE CHIEF ISLANDS IN DE FUCA STRAITS. Vancouver's Island extends from De Fuca straits, nearly two hundred miles northwesterly, and con- stitutes the principal part of the northern Archipe- lago, discovered by De Fonta in 1649. A small part only of this great island is included in the territory called Oregon. It has many fine harbours. Nootka sound is the principal. The land is low and fertile, covered with heavy forests, and plentifully supplied with small streams of water. Strawberry and Whidhey's islands are sit lated at the eastern extremity of the straits. About five miles West of the latter, is Protection island, laying in front of a large bay called Port Discovery. No engineer could have planned a better location of an island, for the purpose of protection. It is be- tween two and three miles in extent, and a conven- ient distance from either shore. Salubrity of situa- tion, and natural advantages for security, tend to make Port Discovery, a desirable place for a harbour and a port of entry. Passage and ^nvil islands lie in Howe's sound, back of Vancouver's island. Orchard island is in Admiralty inlet. South of Whidbey's island. Tatooche's island is situated two miles from the land, forming the southern entrance of De Fuca ; 'I i f i( i im \ m i 46 » straits. It is two miles in circuit, and exhibits a barren, uncultivated surface. It is connected to the main land, by a ledge of rocks, over which the sea breaks with great violence. Duncan's Hock is about one mile N. E. leaving a clear ship channel between. This remarkable rock is in the form of an obelisk, of considerable height. Destruction island, is in lat. 47° 37' N. It is low and flat, about one mile in diameter, and two miles from the main land. It has no wood, and presents a' barren aspect. This, although small, is the largest parcel of detached land on the coast of Oregon. ISLANDS IN THE COLUMBIA RIVER. Seal islands, about eighteen miles from Port Adams, are low and marshy. On one of them the Indians deposit their dead. They are placed in canoes raised on scaffolds above the tides. Fatmy^s island is opposite a fine grove of white oak trees, three miles below the entrance of Cow- elikee river. About ten miles below the entrance of the Chaw- ahnahiooks, is Elalah or Deer island, nine miles long, and four wide. It is bordered on all sides with cotton-wood, ash, &c. while the interior con- sists of prairies interspersed with ponds ; these af- ford refuge to geese, swans, canvass-back ducks, duck-in-mallard, and sand-hill cranes. The Wuppatoo island is situated at the mouth of the Multnomah. It is a large tract of land twenty miles long, and from five to ten wide, rich in soil and of a good elevation. It takes its name, from the wappatoo root, which it produces in great abun- dance, and at all seasons of the year. This excel- lent root grows in all the ponds on this island. The Indian women generally collect it, by going into the water, as high as the breast, if that depth is requir- ed ; and by means of their toes, separate the bulb or part wanted, from the main root. It then rises, and is thrown into the canoe. 47 Image Canoe islands are three in number, nearly connected, and extend along the river nine miles ; the lower end, is near the entrance of the Mult- nomah. Diamond island is a few miles farther up. It is six miles long, three in width, thinly covered with timber, and has a number of ponds scattered over it. Whitehrant island is about a half of a mile above Diamond. It extends three miles, to a point near the entrance of Seal river. It is rocky, at its upper end, and has considerable timber on its shores. There are small ponds in the interior. Strawberry island is immediately above Beacon rock, which is insulated from it, only at high tide. This island is three miles in length, and about one in width. It is high and open ; the land is rich and covered with grass, and a profusion of strawberry vines. It bears the appearance of having once been in a state of cultivation. To this succeeds Brant island, at the distance of a quarter of a mile up the river. It is smaller than the last described, and is similar to it, in appearance. Three miles below Cataract river, and in the mid- dle of the Columbia, are three large rocks ; the middle one is called Sepulchre rock. It is the largest, and has a flat surface of two acres, on which are scattered thirteen square vaults ; in these, the Shackshops tribe of Indians deposit their dead. i CAPES AND POINTS. ir- or ,nd The points, Atkins, Gray and Roberts, are situ- ated in De Fuca straits, northerly from the mouth of Tatooche river. Point Francis is between this river, and Bellingham bay, Point Hanson makes the eastern entrance of Port Discovery. Point Wilson is about five miles S. E. of Hanson. J^ew Dergeness takes its name from the circum- stance of its near resemblance to New Dergeness, in the British channel. It lies 60 miles from, the I i\ ]■ H 48 entrance of the straits, on the southerly side. It forms, on the East a harbour, well sheltered, with good anchorage ground. Cape Beal, in lat. 48° 50' N. forms the headland on the southerly side of Berkley's sound. Cape Classet is made by a rock projecting into the entrance of the straits. Near to this, and Ta- tooche island, on the South, is Cape Flattery^ a headland, in lat. 48° 24' North. Flattery rocks are about fifteen miles South of the cape. They consist of five or six large rocks ele- ' ated above the water. The sea breaks around them with great violence. Point GrenvUle is a considerable extent of bluff land, running into the sea, 10 or 15 miles northerly of Gray's harbour. Capes Brotvn and Hanr.on are the two opposite points of land, which make the entrance of Gray's harbour. The great violence of the breakers, ren- der cape Brown, on the North side, almost inacces- sible. Cape Shoalwater is a headland, high and bluff, forming the southerly entrance of Shoalwater bay. Cape Disappointment lies on the North side of the entrance of the Columbia river. It received its name from Capt. Mears, who, in 1788, >vas dis- appointed, in his search for the river Saint Roc, as laid down on the Spanish charts. The cape is formed by a circular hill of steep ascent, 150 feet high, and covered with a heavy growth of wood, excepting on the side facing the sea, where it is bare of trees, but verdant with grass. There is a sand bank extending from the cape, about two miles, in a W. S. W. direction. Point Adams forms the South side of the river. It is a low projection of land, bearing S. E. about seven miles from the cape, and thinly wooded. From it, sand banks extend within one mile of the cape, and inside of the bank, which runs out from the cape. 40 Chinnook Point is on the easterly side of Baker's bay, about five miles from Cape Disappointment. It IS formed by a remarkable hill, which has an open patch of ground on its southerly side. There is good anchorage, in eight fathoms, above this point. Tongue Point is about 15 miles above Point Ad- ams, on the same side of the river. Point William is abo» ' seven miles above Point Adams ; and is formed by the low termination of a peninsula, about four miles in circuit, and connected to the m^iin land, by an isthmus 30 yards wide. Port Samuel, is farther up on the same side of the river. Cape Lookout, forms the southerly entrance of Killamuck bay. It is bluff and high, and termi- nates abruptly. About two miles (Ustant from the cape, there are three remarkable rocks, conspicu- ously situated in the water. The middle one has a hole, like an archway through its centre. Cape Foulweather, in lat. 44° 49' N. is a conspi- cuous promontory, projecting abruptly into the sea; it is remarkable for a high hill, with a flat summit. Cape Perpetua, in lat. 44° 12', is a high, rocky promontory. A river of considerable magnitude lets into a bay, north of this cape. Cape Gregory, in lat. 43° 23' N. is formed by a round and steep hill. On the northerly side, are high and white cliffs, which, at the distance of four miles, terminate in a white sandy beach. Cape Oiford, in lat. 42° 52', is formed by low land, extending from a high rocky coast, and ter- minating in a low perpendicular cliff. It is cover- ed with wood to the very margin of the water. FORESTS AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. This country appears from the coast, like an im- mense, impenetrable forest. Every where within one hundred and fifty miles of the ocean, both the high and bottom lands are covered with thick :ir m ■ ,1 ■II r'r 50 . woods, and are supplied with great quantities of timber. Concerning it, Capt. Meares observes, " that it abounds with -j'niber for masts and spars, and for ship-building generally, the finest in the world." Of the parts nearest the ctfast, he says ; " the appearance of the land was wild in the ex- treme ; immense forests covered the whole of it, within our sight, down to the very beach." The principal growth, in the two first districts, which terminate on the East at the Grand rapids, are pine, fir, spruce, black alder, white ceder, beach, birch, maple, oak, hemlock, and cottonwood. The woods ire interspersed with many other trees of smaller size, such as the crab-apple, laurel, &c. and very much choked with undergrowth. Among the last, is redwood, which chiefly prevails about the Cowe- leskie river. Beyond the Grand rapids, the growth is found more and more thin ; and the trees smaller till at the Great falls, they disappear from the face of the country. FOREST TREES. Trees most frequent, near the coast, are of the fir species. Of the several species of the pine, there is one which grows to an astonishing size. Lewis and Clarke say, " it is very commonly twen- ty-seven feet in circumferencCj six feet above the earth's surface ; and rises to the height of two hun- dred and thirty feet; one hundred and twenty of that height without a limb. We have often found them thirty-six feet in circumference. One of our party measured one, and found it to be forty-two fett in circumference, at a point beyond the reach of an ordinary man. This trunk, for the distance of two hundred feet, was destitute of limbs. At a moderate calculation, its height may be estimated at three hundred feet. The timber is throughout and rives better than any other species ; the bark scales off in flakes irregularly round, and of a red- ' 61 dish brown colour, particularly the younger growth ; the trunk is simple, branching, and not very pro- liferous." Much of the covering of the highlands along the coast, is the lofty pine. This, above described, is sometimes called, *I. Spruce Pine, and is the larg- est of the species. Capt. J. Sturgis, measured a tree of this species, and found it thirty -six feet in cir- cumference, at a point twenty-five feet from the ground. II. The common White Pine, measures over two hundred feet in height. IV. The Yellow and Pitch Pine differ from those in the United States, only in size. • III, IV. The Long-leaf Pine, is similar in some respects to the yellow pine. It bears a fruit resem- bling in size and shape, the seed of a sunflower ; this fruit, the natives use for food. It is almost the only growth, in some parts of the third district. IV. The Dwarf Pine, resembles, in appearance, the pitch-pine, and is from 10 to 12 feet high. I, IV. Of the Fir, there are several species. The first i^ the most common, and forms nearly one half of the growth, near the coast. It resembles the spruce. The trunk is straight, round and tapering, and from four to six feet in diameter. The wood is white, soft, and difficult to rive. The second is the com- mon balsam fir, and rises to the height of one hun- dred feet. The wood is white and soft, and yields a fine aromatic balsam. The third resembles the first. It differs most in its foliage. It yields no balsam: the wood is porous. I. TLe fourth differs, but in a few points, from the tliird ; the outer wood, for one third of the diameter of the trunk, is white and tough ; the remainder is a brown colour. It is frequent on low lands, where its size is not so great, and itsbranches are more diffusive. II. The Elm is found in the Multnomah valley and about De Fuca straits. * The numeral perfixed to th-; Jiame, refers to the district in whicli the tree prevails. II ll;(l.;i;| ■f't 52 II. Of the Oak, there are three species. Tlie White Oak is found in all parts of the country. Its groves form a considerable- part of the woodlands on both sides of the range of mountains, which crosses the Columbia near the Coweliskee river. This useful timber is likewise found in the neigh- bourhoods of Admiralty inlet and the Multnomah river. It is harder than the white ash of New Eng- land. The Yellow and Red Oak, are frequent in the second and fourth districts. I, II. Of the Spruce, there are twc varieties, which are abundant on bottom lands. Within sixty miles of the coast, they grow to a great height. Lewis and Clarke measured one in the Multnomah valley, which had fallen down, and found it to be three hun- dred and eighteen feet in length. They are ex- tremely hard, and would answer most of the pur- poses of the dock-yard. I, II, IV. Cottonwood is the largest tree on the Western Continent. It resembles the ash, ex- cept in its leaf and size. It is a light, soft and por- ous wood. It often attains the diameter of twelve feet, and is found in most of the timbered parts of the country. It makes a conspicuous appearance, in the wet and stony section of the valley of Clarke's river, where nothing but rose-bushes, honey-suckle, willow and red-wood are found its neighbours. I, II, IV. Beech, Birch, Red and White Ceder and Crab-apple, are common on dry lands. The wood of the latter is excessively hard; the natives make wedges of it, for the purpose of splitting wood and hollowing outtanoes. I, II. Hemlock, White, Brown and Broivn-leaf Jtsh, Black and White Alder, are frequent on moist lands. The black alder, often grows to the aston- ishing height of seventy feet, with a diametre of three or four ; whereas, in the New England States, its diameter rarely exceeds six inches. II, IV. White and Sugar Maple intersperse the woods ; the latter is scarce within thirty miles of the ocean. 53 I. Dogwood abounds on the uplands. Its trunk is frequently eighteen inches through. There are a great number of trees, which we cannot here notice. Every species and variety of trees found in the United States are, likewise, found in Oregon. In the latter country they grow to a greater size, and the wood is harder. There are some trees found in that country, not known else- where. Lewis and Clarke, described a tree com- mon to the Columbia river, below the cataract, that when divested of its foliage resembles the ash. Its leaves resembie those of the palm. The trunk is three feet in diameter. The wood is hard and the seed is winged like that of the maple. There is another tree growing in the some part of the country, resembling the white maple. Itpgrows in clusters, and is seldom more than six inches in diaraetre. John Hoskins, Esq. describes a tree, found about De Fuca straits, which the natives call Wetap ; the leaf resembles that of the hemlock ^ the bark is a deep crimson ; the wood is much like redwood, and nearly of the specific gravity of lifirnumvitae. % Ifl! UNDERGROWTH AND SHRUBBERY. The undergrowth and shrubbery, which lioke the woods, skirt the prairies, and ornament and imbower the banks of rivers, are chielly laurel, fil- berts, redwood, seven-bark, a species of low aldt », whertleberry ; sweet, red and broad-leaf willow ; low ; three varieties of honey suckle ; common, vining and white berry ; two species of moun- tain holly ; elder, fern, green briar of many pecu- liarities, sweet briar, two species of sumuch, red and white roses, damask-red rose, of which there are two species, both quinquepetalous, and with stems alike ; one of them has a large leaf, and an apex, three times the size of a common wild rose. Columbine, red flowering currants, black, purple 54 and yellow-currants, purple haw, crimson haw, large leafed thorn, goosberry, blueberry, blackber- ry, serviceberry, mulberry, mulberry-leafed ras- berry, chokeberry ; a bush called yahma, whose leaves resemble those of the orange, but of a darker shinning green, with a berry, black, of the size of a green pea, and of a delicious flavour : another shrub, whose berry is the size of a thimble-berry ; it has an sgreeable flavour, and is so extremely delicate, that a shower of rain washes it entirely away. Cesinnuah, a bush with a small light green leaf, somewhat similar to that of the. barbary bush; it bears a scarlet berry twice as large as a currant, and of a most delicate and agreeable taste. The same infinitude of plants grow about the Indian villages, as are found in the United States. On the pariries and open plains, there are every kind and variety of grasses. Among the different species of clover, there is one with a small leaf and a pale blossom, much relished by grazing animals. There is another species of grass, with a succulent leaf, nearly as* broad as the flag ; this is a favourite food for horses; it is confined to the mountains where, likewise, grows bear-grass, which preserves its verdure through the coldest winters. The bottom lands and marshes, in the first and fourth districts, furnish redwood, ginseng, snake- root, pashequaw, liquorice, which the natives call sheetlah, shanataque, onions called quanoose, straw- berries, shallun, wappatoo, cinquefoil, ([uamash, lil- ies, &c. Berries and esculent roots grow every where in the greatest profusion. That part of the vegetable kingdom, which fur- nishes roots, as food for the Indians, consists, in part of thistle, fern, rush, liquorice, and small roots cylin- drical in form ; — of two different plants, the on< re- sembling in flavour the sweet-potatoe, the other is bitter, and when boiled, is eaten with train oil, >\ hich is a substitute for butter ; — of wappatoo, a bulbous root of the arrowhead plant, (sagitafolia) and is much 55 cultivated by the Chinese. This is the most valuable of all roots used by Indians, and constitutes a sta- ple article of trade with distant tribes. It grows, exclusively, in the beautiful and fertile valley of the Multnomah ; — of a root resembling the pawpaw, and bearing a berry of a deep purple green ; — of the quamash, a root much esteemed by the Indians. It is found only on the quamash flats, in the fourth district ; — of the cows, which are produced on the same flats with quamash ; — of a small tuberous root which is two inches long, and as thick as a man's fin- ger, when eaten raw it is crisp and milky, and of a pleasant flavour. The potatoe is the only root not indigenous, used by the Indians ; of this, consid- erable crops are raised at the mouth of the Colum- bia river. ' ' Among the most choice berries, used by the natives are shallun, solme, cranberry, the berry of the sacacommis; a deep purple berry like the whertleberry. These are dried and pounded, and generally made into a kind of bread. The reader is favourably and justly impressed with the advantages of Oregon, from a survey of its vegetable productions, which are abundant and excellent of their kind. Their exhuberant growth ; the mildness of the climate, and fertility of soil, very much favour, if not incontrovertibly establish the opinion, that whatever is exotick, whether tree, plant, or vegetable of any kind, that may be intro- duced, will succeed, under the hand of the culti- vator, and richly reward his labour. All who have explored the country, and witness- ed the natural stores of its fertile soil, have been astonished, that a tract so valuable, should have been so long overlook. And when it was first known to a civilized and commercial nation, that it was not immediately occupied. It is believed, however, that the time is not far off, when Oregon will be the happy residence of a great and pros- perous nation ; and will enrich the world with the productions of her soil and labour. 56 Ml. ZOOLOGY. The forests of Oregon, are replete with aborigi- nal animals. They are, in general of the same species, as those in Canada and the United States. No mention, however, will here be made of any, which have not been seen by voyagers or travel- lers, or by them known to exist. or THE QUADRUPEDS. Horse, Ilorneu Cattle, Moose, Caribou, Metaniclth, Moose Deer, Red Deer, Fallow Deer, Black-tailed Deer, Buffalo, Elk, Antelope, Brown Bear, Black Bear, White Bear, Large brown Wolf, Wolf of the plains, Tyger Cat, Wild Cat, Panther, Red Fox, Silver Grey Fox, Yellow Fox, Black Fox, Sheeji, Beaver, Comavon Otter, Sea Otter, Seal, i Marten, Ermine, Braro, Racoon, Dog, Hare-, Rabbit, Skunk, Grey Squirrel, Striped Squirrel, Brown Squirrel, Barking Squirrel, GroundSquirrel, Flying Squirrel, Rat, Mouse, Mink, Musk-rat, Sewellel. The noble and generous Horse, both in a wild and domestic state, is found in the* third and fourth districts of the country. The Shoshonee, Choppu- nish, and Sokulk Indians possess great numbers, and make all their national wealth to consist in them. They appear to be of excellent blood ; lofty, active, of elegant form. Some of them would suffer nothing in comparison with the best English coursers. They are sometimes of a dark brown bay, irregularly spot- ted with white. They are generally of a uniform colour, marked Avith stars and white feet. Cattle are found in the southern part of Oregon, near Mexico, from vv hich they probably emigrated. Horned cattle were not known in America till after the conquest of that country. T^^y wow, in a wild state, graze and browse upon a thousand hills. The Mdamelth, or Mule Deer, are the largest of the deer kind. The Moose Deer are extremely large, v>ith branch- in hoi »'"' ns. I or 67 The Red Deer are similar to those in the United States. They flee their pursuers with great speed, and wind. On oj)en ground they will out run and tire down the best horse the Indians can put on the chase. The Black-tailed Fallow Deer are a distinct spe- cies, and peculiar to the sea coast. They sometimes inhabit the wood lands, but more frequently the prairies. The ears of this animal are longer, ancJ their winter coat darker, than those of the common deer. The tail is of the same length ; the hair on its under side is white ; on the other sides it is a jetty black. ... . . . The Buffalo inhabit only the fourth district. They generally prefer a mountainous country. When Lewis and Clarke were crossing the Rocky mountains, near Medicine river, the buffalo were congregating to emigrate southward ; their number within the circuit of two miles, were imputed to be not less than ten thousand. « , ,• ' ■'*". The Elk prefer the sea coast, and are seldom found as far remote as the Rocky mountains. The Antelope are abundant in the third district. The Indians, mounted on horses, pursue them on the open plains, and shoot them with arrows. Their meat is superior to that of the deer ; their skins are made into robes. Bears are plenty on the Rocky mountains, where they are fierce in their natures ; and have terrible battles with the natives, on whose rights they some- times encroach ; but make ample satisfaction in their skins, which contribute to the Indian war dress. The Broivn Bear seems to be of the same species with the white bear, differing, chiefly, in an acciden- tal variation of colour. Though bears have their dens in mountains, they often roam to distant parts of the country, and are frequently found, on the bor- ders of plains, in copses of undergrowth, and in thickets near water courses. The brown bear is the strongest, most fierce and determined of the family, 8 ' m I ! ii H! ! 58 and is rarely found near the coast. The Indians make but two species of bears. The white and brown constitute the first, which tjiey call hohhost. The black bear is the second species, called yackah. The Black Bear is sometimes seen in the first district ; he is much less formidable in his attacks than the white or brown bear. He differs from the two latter, in being smaller ; having shorter tusks, Shorter, as well as smaller talons, and preying less on other animals. He climbs trees, a thing which the white or brown bear never does, however closely pursued by hunters. The Brown Wolf inhabits woody tracts, near the ocean and on the mountains. They are by no means abundant in this country. The Wolf of the plains is found only in the open country ; he is smaller and less ferocious than the brown wolf. The Ti^er Cat inhabits the first and second dis- tricts, and IS some larger than the wild cat. His back, neck and sides, are of a reddish brown colour, varie- gated with spots of dark brown ; his tail is but two inches long, nearly white, and terminates abruptly, as if amputated ; his belly is white, beautifully spot- ted black ; his back is marked transversely with black stripes ; his hair is long and fine, and the skin is highly valued by the natives. ' The Black Fox or Fisher, as he is sometimes called, is a jetty black, excepting the breast, on which there is a small white spot. He is extreme- ly active in climbing, and can bound from branch to branch, and from tree to tree, in pursuit of the squir- rel or other game, with great ease. This, with the beautiful Silver Gray Fox, inhabits the woody coun- try bordering on the coast. The Yellmo Fox has long, soft and very beauti- ful fur. The natives, far to the north, aware that foxes and bears have a keen scent, decoy them by burning fish, or other oleagenous matter. 50 Sheep are found in all the mountainous parts of the country. They are very abundant in the tim- bered heights and cliffs near the coast ; they differ mostly from the common domestic sheep of the United States, in their ^ ool, which is shorter ; that on their backs coarser, and on their heads it is in- termixed with straight long hair. The Mountain Sheep are found on the summit of the Rocky mountains, seem to be a distinct species. They are the size of a large deer, have winding horns like a ram ; their wool is coarser than the other sheep. They are in great abundance in the northern regions, about Prince William's sound and Cook's river. The Braro is a small animal resembling the badger of New-England ; it is found in the first dis- trict. The Beaver is found about the bays, ponds and rivers of this country. Its fur being more valuable than that of most other animals, it has been sought for with greater avidity till it has become almost ex- tinct. It is hoped, that government will extend a protecting arm, over her rights in this country, and cause to be suspended, if possible, tor a term of years, the further hunting of these animals. Seal are vastly plenty on the coast, and up the Columbia, as far as the Great falls. The Sea Otter is never found out of sea or salt water, and never below the thirtieth degree of N. lat. He frequents the N. W. coast, the coasts of Japan, China and Corea. This animal, when fully grown, is six feet long from the nose to the end of the tail; the tail is ten inches long ; the legs are short, the feet have five toes on each, which are broad and webbed. He is furnished with powerful weapons of offence, and destruction : his fore paws, possess great strength; his mouth contains most formidable rows of teeth, superior to any other marine carniverous animal, except the shark. His ^■.1. 60 fur is of extreme fineness, and unrivalled for soft- ness, richness and beauty. It is perfectly black, at first sight, but when opened, it is lighter. When the coarse shining blaclc hairs are plucked off, the lower fur appears of a beautiful velvet brown. The great abundance of this animal, on the American coast, occasion its being caught in greater plently by the natives, who are supplied not only with what they esteem delicious food, but a comfortable pro- tection against the severity of the winters. The Ermine is of a yellowish colour, and does not possess that clear and beautiful Avhite colour, common to the royal ermine, in more northern regions. The Marten are of two kinds, one similar to that in New England, the other has so coarse a fur, as to be in little or no estimation. The Dog is the size of an ordinary cur ; he is usually parti-coloured ; the head is long, the nose sharp, the ears erect and pointed ; the hair is short and smooth. Among the tribes, about Nootka sound, in 1785, these amimals had become so ex- tremely plenty, and their fleas and filth so offen- sive, even to the Indian, that they were utterly ex- terminated from that quarter. The Barking Squirrel inhabits the plains in the third district ; he weighs about three pounds ; the colour is a bright red and grey, the former pre- dominates ; the legs are short ; the head is more blunt and wider than that of other squirrels ; the ears are short and square on the top. From the end of the nose to the extremity of the tail, he is one foot and five inches in length, of which the tail makes four inches. He is remarkably active, and burrows in the ground with great ease, and to a great depth ; he, sometimes penetrates more than ten feet in solid earth. These animals, generally, rest erect on their rump, and in this position, bark at the intruder, as he approaches, with great confidence, and with a fretful and harmless intrepidity ; tlieir notes are in ([iiick and angry succession. Their subterraneous habitations, occupy in one part of the country, several hundred acres of ground. The ^liewellel, is a small animal, very much resemb- ling the squirrel ; mounts a tree and burrows in the ground like him. The fur is fine, short, thickly set, and of a silky gloss. The skin is highly valued by the Indians. He is found in considerable abun- dance, in the first and second districts. MARINE ANIMALS. Besides those of this class, already named, the sea coast abounds with the whale, both the sperma- ceti and black; the sword fish, the thraslier, the grampus, the black and white porpoise, the sea lion, and sea cow. The FinnerSy (Balaina Physalus) are, sometimes, found about the mouth of the Columbia. The blub- ber of all whales, particularly of these, is highly esteemed by the natives, and if a little tainted it constitutes a most delicious dish, exceeded only by the flesh of the sea cow and sea lion, which furnish one of peculiar zest and delicacy. rhe Indians do not always subject themselves to t]ie inconvenient and troublesome operation of cook- iiAg the flesh of the whale, or of fish generally ; v; hen they do, it is put into a basket, so constructed as to hold water, into which heated stones are put till it boils. It woidd seem, that with this rude peo- ple, the more putrid their fish, the more palata- ble ; the flesh of land animals may be ever so un- savoury with filth, but must not be the least tainted. An Indian, whose appetite is a little sharpened with hunger, and when denied the gratification of it, in a share of the meat of an animal, will, sometimes, seize upon one end of a gut, and gather it into his mouth, while pressing from the other end, its con- tents. '1 1 M ■ 62 FISH. The bays and rivers of Oregon team with fish of the best quality ; the most common are : Salmon, salmon trout, sturgeon, skait, cod, hali- but, rock fish, herring, shrough, sardine, speckled trout, anchovy, red snapper, dog fish, cuttle fish. The Salmon are from 2J to 3 feet long, and weigh from ten to twenty pounds. In the month of June they ascend all the rivers, which open from the ocean, in astonishing numbers. In the season of their return to the sea, which is, generally, the first of October, they float in vast crowds down the streams, drift ashore, where the Indians have only to collect, split and dry them for use. The Salmon Trout seldom exceed two feet in length. There is a species, called the White Sal- mon Trout, They are 2^ feet long, and weigh about ten pounds, seldom found above the Great falls on the Columbia. The Speckled Salmon Trout differ in nothing but size from those in New-England. They are large ; frequent creeks and rivulets, and delight themselves in cool spring water. The Cod are remarkably fine in the spring. Herring and Sardines enter the rivers in vast shoals. The Shrough is a small fish, resembling the her- ring, about four inches long. It is found only, in the ponds, about Be Fuca straits. This fish is remarkably fat, and serves the natives with their best oil, which is extracted by the very simple pro- cess of hanging it up, exposed to the sun ; in a few days, it will have melted entirely away. The oil is received in troughs, then conveyed to fish blad- ders, in which state, it is exported in brge quanti- ties to distant tribes. Shrough, Herring and Sardines, are all taken by the natives in one and the same manner, and in vast 68 quantities. They fp-st drive the shoals into the small coves or shallow waters, when a num])er oi* persons in canoes, keep splashing the water; while others sink branches of pine ; the fish are then easily taken out with scoops, or wicker baskets. The two latter after being cleaned, are st^^ung on rods, and hung in rows, over their fires, to smoke ; when suf- ficiently dried, they are packed up in mats for their winter's provisions. The Cuttle Fish is taken and eat b)^ the Indians, in its raw state, with great relish. Muscles are found in the Columbia river and De Fuca straits, of a large size ; but the pearls they contain are small, and not very transparent. REPTIL.ES. A small brown snake^ the rattle snake, the gar- ter snake, black and horned lizard, and snail, com- pose the principal part of the class of reptiles. There is a snake, nearly four feet long, seen by Lewis and Clarke, on the Rocky mountains, and described by them, as having two hundred and eighteen scuta on the abdomen, and fifty nine squa- ma, or half formed scuta, on the tail. It is not of the poisonous class of snakes. The Broion Snake is one foot and a half long. They are inoffensive, and flee on hearing the least noise. The Rattle Snake is the only poisonous rep- tile known to infest the Oregon country, and this tribe of snakes is confined, chiefly, to the mountain- ous parts of the fourth district. The Garter Snake is much like that in the Uni- ted States. They have one hundred and sixty scuta on the abdomen, and seventy on the tail ; and are found in the prairies of the second district. Sometimes forty or fifty will entwine round each other, in the same bundle. I 1 1 ! i 64 BIRDS> The birds are vast in numbers, various in plu- mage and in note ; many of them are excellent for the table. Lewis and Clarke divided them into two classes, the land, and the aquatic ; of the former are the Eagle, Peasant, Wood-pigeon, Sparrow, Buzzard, Robin, Hen or prairie Cock, Corvus, Hawk, Black-bird, Magpie, Snipe, ' Crow, Turtle-dove, Woodpecker, Thrush, Owl, King-fisher, Lark, Wren, — Bat, Rai^en, M - rten, Plove;, Iluniniing-bird. Of the different kinds of Eagles in this country, the Calamutf though not so large as the bald eagle, is the most beautiful of all the family. They are variegated with black and white coiours. The tail feathers, which are twelve in number, and prized above all other feathers, by the Indians, are white, except within three inches of their extremities, wherr they change to a jetty black ; these feathers decorate the stems of the sacred pipe or calamut ; from whence the calamut eagle derives its name. The wings have each a large circular white spot in the middle. They fly with great rapidity, and soar high in the heavens. They are feared by all their carniverous competitn-s, and are unap])roached in the solitude of inaccessible mountains, n here they make their summer residence, and breed their young, descending with their offspring to the plains, only in the fall and winter. The Buzzard is the largest bird of North Ame- rica ; it measures nine or ten feet between ihe ex- tremities of the wings, and weighs from thirty to forty pounds. They frequent the sea coast and the banks of the Columbia. Peasants of this country, have been divided into three kinds; black and white peasants, small speck- led peasants, small brcwn peasants. 66 The first kind are as large as a hen ; reside almost exclusively, in the fourth district, and feed on saca- comniis berries. The Speckled Peasant is half the size of the black and white peasant, is more of a gregarious bird, and resides also in the fourth district. The Broimi Peasant is the size of the speckled peasant, and like the others, is a silent bird, and feeds on the leaves of pines and firs. Of Hens, there are two kinds ; the Prairie hen, and the cock of the plains. They both inhabit the third district. ^.In the winter season, the Prairie Hen is booted to the first joint of the toes ; the toes are curiously bordered with hard scales, which are placed close to each other, and extend horizontally, about one eighth of an inch on each side of the toes, adding to the width of the feet, a security, which bounteous nature has furnished them for walking on snov* ; it is very remarkable that, in the summer, these scales drop from the feet. This bird is the size of a sma^l turkey. The Cock of the Plains is two thirds the size of an ordinary turkey. It cac- kles and crows, like a dung hill fowl, and feeds on the seed and leaves of shrubs found on the plains. The Marten inid Humming bird are said to be found, only, on the Rocky mountains. AQUATIC BIRDS. The most important of this class of birds are loons, brunts, geese, swans, ducks, sea-parrots, and Cranes. There are three kinds of Brant. The White Brant are very common on the sea-shores, where they continue in vast numbers during the winter, feeding on the grass, roots and seed found on marshes. It is two thirds the size of a wild goose ; its plumage is a clear, uniform white, except the extremities of the large Aving feathers, which are black ; the flesh is exceedingly fine, preferable to that of any other bird, if the common black duck is excepted. tt 06 The Brown Brant is larger than the white, and nearly the same form and colour ; the feathers on the upper part of the body, neck, head and tail are intermixed with those, that are dark brown and black. The Pied Brant, on its sides and back, is the same colour of the common wild goose ; the breast and belly are white, with an irregular mixture of black feathers ; hack of its legs, underneath, the feathers are white ; the extremities of the side tail feathers are white ; the beak is of a light flesh col- our ; the legs are of an orange. It weighs eight or nine pounds. The Swan are of two kinds, the large and small, and are alike in colour, contour and habits. They are found in considerable numbers, on the Colum- bia, as far up as the Grand rapids, and in De Fuca. The Ducks are of many kinds; the duck-in-mal- lard ; the canvass-back duck ; the red-headed fish- ing duck; the black and and white duck; the broAvnduck; the black duck; two species of divers, and blue wini2;ed teal. These are all found in abundance, and excellent in kind, on the ponds and rivers near the ocean. Sand-hill Cranes are numerous on the side of the Rockv mountains. ' _ IXSBCTS.* Most of the insects common to the United States, are seen in this country : such as the butterfly, the comiaoa housefly, the l)lowingfly, the horsefly, ex- cept one s]}(cics of it, the gold-coloured earfly, the place of which is su})})lied by a fly of a brown colour, wl.icli attaches itself to the same ])art of the horse, and is equally troublesome. There are, likewise nearly all the varieties of beetles known in the Atlantic States, except the large cow beetle, and the bl: c'; beetle, commonly called the tumble- * TluM entire! ;u'c()unt of tlu; ins«'c(s, and manyotiicr important fads concern- inji tlio animal kin;;(l<)m, were derived from Lewis and Clarke's journal. 67 buff. Neither the hornet, the wasp, nor the yellow jacket, inhabit this part of the country, but there is an insect resembling the last of these, though much larger, which is very numerous, particularly in the Rocky mountains, and on the waters of the Colum- bia; the body and abdomen are yellow, with trans- verse circles of black, the head, l)lack, and the wings, which are four in number, of a dark brown colour; their nests are built in the ground, and re- semble that of the hornet, with an outer covering to the comb. These insects are fierce, and sting very severely, and are very troublesome to horses. The Silktvorm, is also found here, as well as the humble bee, though the honey is not. INDIAjNS. No account of the character or iiimibers of the aboriginal inhabitants of Oregon, can be consider- ed, in strict correspondcMice with their ])resciit state and condition, unless the data from wliich it is given, have been collected, since the occurrence of any important change with them. Some of the facts, contributing to this sketdi, represent their condition at the present time ; others, equally authentic, represent it at the period of Vancouver and Capt. Gray's voyages. Such is the certain and easy mutability of Indian affairs, that a few years of trading intercourse with a peo- ple boasting superior excellence from civilization and Christianity make a vast difference in the num- bers and fortunes of these unwary sons of the forest. The Indian history opens a wicle field of inquiry and curiosity, into which the writer forbears to enter till he has more leisure and a better op])ortu- nity ; he atteni])ts nothing farther, at present, than a short, and necessarily, rude sketch of the numbers, character, manners and customs of the tribes. There are about fifty subordinate tribes not noticed in the list, which follows. 68 THE PRINCIPAL, INDIAN NATIONS, OR SOVEREIGN TRIBES, IN OREGON. Shoshonee, Ootlashoot, Chopunish, Sokulk, , Chimnahpnm, . . . . Wollawollah, . . . . Pishquitpahs, . . . . Wahowpum, . . . . Eneshure Eskeloot, Chilluckittequaw, . , Shahana, Nechacokee, Multnomah, Quathlahpothle, . , Skilloot, Wahkiacum, Cathlamah Chinnook, Clatsop Killamuck, Clackamus, Callahpoewah 1* 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 No. Pouls. 2,000 400 5,000 2,000 1,500 1,600 2,000 700 1,200 1 ,000 2,000 2,000 600 3,0-ene- rally about the common stature ; fleshy, though not corpulent. They have broad, full visages ; the cheek bone rather prominent ; the face falls in be- tween the temples, quite back to the crown of the head, which is pressed forward, so as nearly to form a line with the forehead, which is low ; the eyes are small and black ; the nose flattens at the base with spreading nostrils; the mouth is large with thick lips ; the teeth are regular, well set, and of an ivory white. Some have considerable beard, with long whiskers. It is a common practice for the young- men to pluck out their beard, together with a part of their eye-brows ; what remains, is, with grease and a black pigment, formed into a narrow and (was it not for the dirt,) graceful arch. Their heads are well covered with hair, long, black and coarse. They have crooked legs, thick and pro- jecting ancles, which appears as though swollen, and large,*flat spreading feet. These defects are entire- ly owing to the practice of continually sitting on the calves of their legs and heals. The Indians, in all parts of the country, are so extremely filthy, that it is almost imposible to ascertain their true colour ; when they have been induced, thoroughly, to wash their bodies, which are kept besmeared with grease, paint and dirt, their skin appears of that sallow white, which distinguishes the popula- tion of some parts of the Southern States. The children are pleasant and full o^ vivacity ; but in manhood they appear reserve, and possess seeming- ly a dull thoughtful disposition. The women have nearly the muscular power of the men, and habit I ! h 70 much like them ; and their iiiitural feminine graces, sufficientl}' evince the sex. They uniformly pos- sess an open, phrasing countenance, that when man- tled by the glow and blush of youth, give them strong pretentions to beauty ; a beauty that is often associated with modesty, which, appearing in the uncultivated Indian, equally surprises and charms the virtuous mind. Although the natives preserve a general resem- blance in person, dress and manners to each other ; yet some, more than others have distorted visages, from the universal custom of flattening the heads of their infant children. This practice of sacrificing a perfect symmetry of natural form, to the most unaccountable notions of beauty, prevailed at one period, among most of the nations on the American continent. In order to give the head a broad forehead, or the shape of a sugar loaf, it is compressed between two pieces of boards, strongly bound with ligatures. This oper- ation is not, apparently, attended with pain, and is continued one year ; when the head is released it is often not more than two inches thick above the natural forehead. The dress of the natives, particularly those near the sea coast, have, in some degree, become assimi- lated to that of white people. Twenty years ago, it consisted of a robe, or man- tle made of skin, with the hair or fur on, extending half Avay d^)\vn the legs, and tied with a string across the breast, with the corners hanging over the arms. They sometimes made use of a blanket manufactur- ed from the bark of a tree, or the wool of the native sheep. The tribes on and near the Rocky mountains wear a long shirt, leggings reaching as high as the hips, and» moccasins. The hair of the women is, generally, done up with a comb in it ; that of the men is formed into ques, hanging over the ears, which gives the face a broader a])pearance. 71 Their caps are made of small skins, or bear grass and cedar bark, interwoven in a conick form, with a knob at the top, and without a brim. The women wear, with or without the mantle, as convenience or fancy may lead, a sort of tissue, which covers the body to the knee in front, and to the thij>'h behind. Some substitute a small skin, drawn under a girdle and hanging down like an apron. Both sexes are fond of decorating their persons, w ith beads and other ornaments, which are tied about the Avrists and ancles, and are pendant from the ears and nose. The external beauty of an Indian female, is truly fantastic. Her appearance, with limbs ill-shaped ; features distorted ; heads swarming with vermin ; hair braided into tresses, and clotted with grease and oil, and hanging like so many tails down the back ; breasts exposed and falling, and the whole skins besmeared with train oil and red ochre, pre- sents a most disgusting contrast with that of a lady in a refined and civilized state, dressed in her full attire for the social circle. Hunting, fishing, collecting and drying roots, con- stitute the chief employments of the lower or com- mon people. The nobler occupations, such as kill- ing the whale, hunting the sea otter, and the larger animals, chastising and destroying other tribes, be- long exclusively to Chiefs and Warriors. They occupy houses with pitched roofs, from 20 to 60 feet long, and from 10 to 20 feet wide. The ridge pole is sometimes two or three feet in diame- ter, resting on posts, the ends of which are let into the ground. The sides of the building are made of boards ; the top is covered with white cedar bark. The entrance is by a small hole, generally 14 by 20 inches, cut through a board or large post. The fire-place is in the centre of the house ; the smoke escapes through a large opening in the roof. I 72 ' SIMOKING THE PIPE OF FRIENDSHIP. The Pipe or Calamiit is generally made of stone, highly polished ; the bowl is about !2J inches long, of an oval shape, or in the same direction with the stem. On the reception of a friend, the chief makes a circle in the sand, lights his pipe, — first directs the stem to the heavens, in regard to the Almighty, in whom the Indians believe ; then to the centre of the circle, in manifestation of love, which should be the moving principle, and in the centre of all human actions ; then to the guest who receives it, after which each person present, takes a number of whiffs. No talk or noise of any kind can commence, till after the business of smoking is concluded. When they pretend a sacred regard to the guest, they pull off their moccasins ; a religious custom, which the tribes of Israel were required to observe when standing " on holy ground." RELIGION. There are many things in the religious faith and observances of this people, which bear a strong ana- logy to the Jewish ritual. Besides the instances above, they observe days of humiliation, fasting and prayer. They have, an- nually, a religious celebration, which continues seven days, on which occasion they make a mock sacrifice of a prince, — return thanks for past favours, and implore the benediction of their god, Qua- hooize. They torture themselves by piercing their sides and arms ; and try in various ways to surpass each other, in their proofs of enduring pain. The Chopunish nation, have huts appropriated specially for women, where they must retreat and observe the rights of purification. No person is suffered to approach these deserted females ; and even their food is thrown to them, at a considerable distance. From these circumstances, and many others, that might be mentioned, of their dress, ornaments and 73 customs ; form the great resemblance in complexion, figure, manners, and even language, which these people, and those on the islands in the Pacific bear to the inhabitants * of the island of Cracatoa, laying in the entrance of the straits of Sunda ; an important inference may be drawn towards account- ing for the origin of the aboriginal inhabitants of the North West coast of America. The fact of the dogs, which are wholly domestic, and the constant and inseparable companions of the Indians, being the same species of dogs in the East Indies, does much in settling this question. Many, if not all the tribes north of De Fuca straits, were once cannibals. It is believed, however, that for many years past, their sanguinary appetites have been not so well set, and that they have abandoned a practice the most horrid, and the most shocking to human nature. They were in the habit of killing and eating a part of those, whom the fortune of war had put into their hands, and whom they held as slaves. One of these unhappy victims was sacrificed every moon, or as often as the occurrence of their festival days, in the following manner. A part or the whole, of the slaves are collected at the sovereign chief's house, where they are compelled to join in the mu- sic and the dance. The inferior chiefs sing the war song, dance round the fire, throwing oil into it, to make larger the flame. In the midst of this hellish mirth, the principal chief, dressed and paint- ed in savage costume ; and in the appearance of a ghastly demon, enters blindfolded ; in this state he pursues the unhappy wretches, whose struggles and shrieks to escape his fearful hold create an aw- ful moment of conjfusion, and thrill with horror the * See Capt. Cook's Voyages. NOTE It is probable that the dispersion of the Jews, effected, in part the settlement of some of the islands in the Indian Ocean, and that the wars between the Chinese and Tartars which were continued, from 200 to about 8<) years before Christ, kept the inhabitants of these two countries as well as those of the contiguous islands in constant distress and jeopardy of their rights. These sons of Jacob, therefore, might have been induced to migrate to islando ia the Pacific further remote from the seat of oppression. 10 74 heart of stone ; the fatal grasp is made ; the knife is plunged to the heart, and the infernal shout announ- ces the silence of the devoted victim ; it is imme- diately cut into pieces ; a reeking parcel is given to each of the guests, who, like dogs, seize the quiv- ering flesh, and while they devour it, the blood runs from the mouth warm as in the current of life. Notwithstanding these, or other habitual cruel- ties ; they furnish no une(|uivocal facts, by which to determine the general character of the Indians. They are, indeed acts, than which none, human or brutal, are more shocking, or more to be deprecated : they would be deprecated, and held in utter abhor- rence by the perpetrators themselves, were they endowed with the mental cultivation of white men. But these things evince a disposition no more de- praved, than that of thousands in the most enlight- ened countries, practising crime in every form, and with every degree of attrocity. For, when u man, of a corrupt education, either from accident or de- sign, becomes familiar with the business of shedding blood, whether of an enemy or a brother, he can pur- sue it with system and with a degree of self appro- bation. It is not going too far, in the vindication of the Indian character, to say, that all, who are just themselves, and have had opportunities of familiar intercourse, have found them an inoffensive people, adhering to their notions of right and wrong ; cour- teous and kind to strangers ; amiable and ol)liging to one another. Let them be dealt with fairly, and a more hospitable and better disposed race of men cannot be found. ADVANTAGES OF SETTLING THE OREGON COUNTRY. The local position of that country ; its physical appearance and productions ; its qualities of soil and climate, suggest, not only the practicability of founding a colony in it ; but the consequent bene- ficial results to our Republic ; and the many valua- ble blessings it might be made to yield to the set- tlers, and to their posterity. The expense of the 75 project could not much exceed that of the present South Sea expedition, though the profits would be, in the proportion of one hundred to one. It is the object of these remarks to notice some of the advan- tages, which would inevitably accrue to the govern- ment of the United States, from a colonization of that country. First, The occupancy of it, by three thousand of the active sons of American freedom, would secure it from the possession of another nation, and from augmenting the power and physical resources of an enemy. It might save that and this country, from the disastrous conse([uences of a foreign and cor- rupt population ; and benefit mankind by a race of people, whose past lives, affording the most honour- able testimony of their characters, would be a pledge for their future conduct, and a full indem- nity for all expenses incurred in their behalf. It is not a doubtful hypothesis, that unless our legitimate rights on the waters and in the territory of Oregon, are protected by planting a colony in it, or by other means no less effectual ; they will in a few years more, become entirely lost to our mer- chants, or to the benefits of our country. England is desirous of possessing the whole coun- try, with all its invaluable privileges. She has evinced this, by that bold and lawless spirit of en- terprise, by which she has acquired so great a mon- opoly in the Indian trade ; by which, in the year 1812, she took from American citizens, the town of Astoria, (now called Fort George,) and still retains it ; by which she built and scattered along the Col- umbia and its tributaries, on the Tatooche, and at other places, her trading towns. In this presumptu- ous way ; in defiance to treaties and obligations, to the paramount claims of this country, and by alliances with the Indians, she hopes to secure a hold upon it, which the physical power of the American Republic, exerted in the plentitudc of its energies, cannot break. She is provident in these things ; and wisely anticipates that awful catastrophe, which will ; . ! I i 70 terminate on thoKfistorn Continent lior long and brilliant ca- reer. Slie,tlieretore, selects this fair traet of earth, where to rcbu Id her empires and a^'aio make it resplendant in wealth and power. Nature i»as provided cwiy matc^rial on the spot, necessary to make it, as permanent and lasting in founda- tion, as stupendous in structure. Second. A free and exclusive trade with tlu; Indians, and with a colony in Oregon, would v. ry considerably increase the resources, and promote the conunercial andmanufactui- ing interests of our coinitry. The fur trade 'as been and still is found, vastly lucrative to those who pursue it. Tiie contemplated colony would find it productive of great pecimiary advantage, and a fruit- ful source of their prosperity. Tlie trAffic carried on with the Indians, will become more r(!eij)rocal, and equal in the diffusion of its comforts, as industry and the peaceful arts are sustained by them ; for a trade witli any people is com- mensurate with their real wants ; these, with Indians, must naturally increase, as they assimilate their customs and hab- its to those of their refmed and civilized neighbours. Trade on the North West Coast was connnenced in A. D. 1787. Private adventurers of four different conmiercial nations, un- known to each other, animated by the same bold and enter- prising spirit, simultaneously commenced voyages, and met together in the Western Ocean. Each claimed, as a part of his object, the fur trade. The English and Americans from that, to the present time, ha ^e pursued it with great success. The furs and other articles, which the latter have shipped from that coast to the East India market, have amount- ed to nearly one million of dollars, per annum. The trade requires a small capital ; and yields to the govern- ment a revenue of five hundred thousand dollars per an- num.. So lucrative has it been on that coast, that some hundreds of American citizens have been induced to cross the Rocky mountains, and engage in it, inland. These en- terprising adventurers for some years found it rich and pro- fitable ; till unsustained by that protecting policy, which' the exigences of their pursuit seemed to require, they were called to compete with rival interests, to meet and to sub- mit to the unjust restrictions, imposts and indignities, which jealousy and self-interest were pleased to impose. English traders, at the present time possess the country. The will of the Hudson Bay Company, is the supreme law of the land. The natives are subservient to it, and American tra- ders dare not resist it. Hence, the inland trade is fast on the wane, and has become disastrous, if not in most cases, ruinous. While it is so constantly exposed to the rapacity 77 of treacherous Indians, and to the avarice of the EngliMh, it must remain utterly valueless. It might, however, he reclaimed, and for ever protected hy a colony occupying the shores of the Columbia. And what better means couUl the American Republic desire, for the protection of the lives and property of her citizens, in that territory, and on the Western Ocean ? What means could be found more com- patible with her interests, and more agreeable to the dic- tates of her sovereign authority, as it regards justice, phi- lanthrophy and her own glory ? English traders, by a proj)er circumspection and