^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7, %" 1.0 I.I ■SIM 125 18 1.25 |l.4 ,..6 .4 6" ► V] <^ w 4 7 /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716) 872-4503 f/j f/. ,'^ \ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiquss Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibiiographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checiced below. D D D D n Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagte Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^ et/ou peiiiculAe Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes gAographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReiiA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouttes iors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsqua cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6tA filmAes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl6mentairas: L'Institut a microfilm^ le meiileur exemplaire qu'il lui a At* possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reprodulte, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la methods normaie de fiimage sont indiqute ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagtes □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restauries et/ou peiliculies Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dicoiories, tacheties ou piqu6es , I Pages detached/ ^ Pages d6tach6es I I ShGwthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality inigale de i'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel supplAmentaire Only edition available/ Seuie Edition disponible V~7( Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ I I Only edition available/ Tl to n Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refiimed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totaiement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc.. ont M filmAes A nouveau de fapon h obtenir la meilieure image possible. Tl P< o1 fll Oi b4 th sk ot fir sU or Th sh Til wl M< dll en be rig rei mi This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiqu* ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 90X ^ 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X n 32X Th« copy fllmad h«r« has b—n raproducad thanka to tha ganaroalty of: ' Library Division ProvineisJ Archivti of British Columbia L'axamplaira f ilmA f ut raprodult firAca i la gAntroaltA da: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia Tha Imagaa appaaring hara ara tha baat quality poaalbia eonaldaring tha condition and laglblllty of tha original copy and In kaaping with tha filming contract apacif Icatlona. Las imagaa tulvantaa ont AtA raproduitaa avac la plua grand soin, compta tanu da !a condition at da la nattatA da I'axampialra filmA. at an conformitA avac laa conditiona du contrat da filmaga. Original copiaa In printad pa^ar covars ara filmad baglnning with tha front covar and anding on tha laat paga with a printad or llluatratad impraa- ■Ion, or tha back covar whan appropriata. All othar original copiaa ara filmad baglnning on tha firat paga with a printad or llluatratad impraa- aion. and anding on tha laat paga with a printad or llluatratad impraaaion. Tha laat racordad f rama on aach microficha ahali contain tha aymbol — ^> Imaaning "CON- TINUED"), or tha aymbol ▼ (moaning "END"), whichavar appliaa. Laa axamplairaa origlnaux dont la couvartura an napiar aat ImprimAa aont fllmAa an commanqant par la pramlar plat at •n tarminant aoit par la darnlAra paga qui comporta una ampralnta d'impraaaion ou d'llluatration, aoit par la aacond plat, aalon la caa. Toua laa autraa axamplairaa origlnaux sont fllmAa an commandant par la pramlAra paga qui comporta una ampralnta d'impraaaion ou d'illuatration at mn tarminant par la darnlAra paga qui comporta una talla ampralnta. Un daa symboiaa auivanta apparattra aur la darnlAra imaga da chaqua microficha, aalon la caa: la aymboia — »> aignifia "A SUIVRE". la aymbola ▼ aignifia "FIN". Mapa. plataa. charta, ate. may ba filmad at diffarant raduction ratioa. Thoaa too larga to ba antiraly includad in ona axpoaura ara filmad baglnning in tha uppar laft hand cornar, iaft to right and top to bottom, aa many framaa aa raquirad. Tha following diagrama illuatrata tha mathod: Laa cartas, planchas, tablaaux. ate, pauvant Atra filmAa A das taux da rAduction diffAranta. Lorsqua la documant aat trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saul clichA, il aat filmA A partir da I'angia supAriaur gaucha, da gaucha A droita, at da haut an baa, an pranant la nombra d'imagas nAcaaaaira. Las diagrammas suivants illustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 'rW C^: s ^' ■•/ I ^■^ r ^ f. H \i H I I. <> H ;. METHODISM IN AMERICA: WITH THK PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE AUTHOR, OURINU A TO I'll THROUOII A TAUT (IK THE UiNITED STATES AND CANADA. ^m HY JAMES I)lXOx\, D.J). LONDON: I'UINTI]I> FOIJ THK AUTIIOU : SOLD IJY JOHN MASON. tUi, rATERNOSTElMlOW ; AND UV JAMES PEAKT. BIRMINGHAM. MDCCCXLIX. ^" * s ^ IM D Moutri*:iI Toronto^;^^. NKW niflNSWIfK ' V6- r.^-^ !»« M<«lt|lcluT'/ -■ '^ / SiilnlilsUi- "" /"^ f'J H 1 lAUUH ,_^ (0I1III1I.IJS o Nanliui]plc| *?> ) u . . ■** ,.«^ \lliUTis(.iir»- V V'^-^w'^ A' .1 •4 I iin.u TiSm^i*', "' rnnilxrlainl ^^hihiili-l|ilii;i^ til / ... Wasliiuii iiitnii y ' y ^-J^ -^ ;< •'^ Kichiiioi ai s^ '^X^ ^ /r' ^ s O B T ft C A ,f ,^ o ■ ^' / // C^ sr<)>nfnhia V ., \ Uil|o(l^<-vill<- / /-/ / U N IT£D STATES, METMOiMSM m AMEMllt'A . Ill ih 40 i(«) MO ton S C ^ I. £ DT M I 1. e s HKKKHEXCK to thf CON KICK lA'CKS I / M.iint 2 A'fif llii)u/is/ni< .'7 ,1/ /r ^^ r/: Pn'Vli/iiiri- 7 Xikv ■/ii: /Wk A'mr 2/ dfUfSff Z2 .Vt.-rt.'i inthaiio ^■S Alirhitfaii 2-f Chio 2,i tclU.lil '/■• 2G KetUuf.ky. 27 ffelston 2/i /Hl/M*lfl 29 7'rnni/xi. 311 hmti .?/ ///in,;\- .■i2 lUifh' tr: ■Ti s/. /,) ,//.,■ M Aril tn.vri.t • W jWi niphis .% A 'i/i'//h/i/>i ■'i7 £oiiixii/>iti I '^ Alii/>ritmt I .W Jr.r,i.. j -aV' hiih/iii A/i/xii ti 'A Ml P7 L.« 35 i*f 33 32 V l.W 21 1 It - LOiNDON : PRINTED BY JAMES NICHOLS, lIOXTON-SyCARE. ADVERTISEMErsT. 1 \ Tims voluino lias been prcjcirod for [lultlit-ation under tlie iuHiioiu't' of Olio only soiitiiiicMit ; iiaiiicly, iv dt'siro to make tlu; Methodist Ixidy in Iji^dand aeiiuainted with the stat(! and progr^ ss of their system of religion in tlie United States. The author is not conscious to himself of any peculiar bias in Iiis opinions ; his aim heing sini])ly to state facts as they presented tJiemselves to his attention, and leave his readers to draw their own inferences. Not being a ])olitical agent, he has not felt himself called upon to enter — except incidentally — into <[uestions of civil government. His general impression is, however, that the Americans possess a larger amount of social pros- perity than any other people upon earth. But the vexed question of republicanism lies beyond his purpose ; and he begs to inform his reader beforehand, that whatever he may meet with is not to be construed into an expression of opinion, for or against this or any other form of government, but simply as historical. One thing, liowever, bearing on this subject may not be deemed out of place : it is, that the author's impressions of the true greatness of his own country were never so strong as during his visit to the States. America is the offspring of England. England has been reproduced in America. The character of the parent is .seen in the ath- letic growth of the son. The blood, the religion, the ideas, the opinions, and, in imbsta?ict\ the institutions, of England exist in the United States. On this soil the Anglo-Saxon race is asserting its supremacy on a gigantic scale, and with a rare energy and vigour. It is a singular '615'^^ IV AnVKllTISEMENT. phenomenon, whicli every visitor must perceive at once, that his own country's type of humanity ia predominant. Peo- ple from all nations in Kurope are seen in lar^jfe numbers ou the western contiiient ; hut they all become anglicised. Just as tlu; "■ father of waters," the Mississippi, receivf's the innumerable tributary streams which How in every direction to swell and deepen its flood, and then in turn are blended with and become one with the parent cur- rent ; so, in like manner, all the races which Hock to America feel the force, do homage to the superiority, and fall into the current, of Anglo-Saxon life. In two or three generations nothing of the German, the Dutchman, the Frenchman, the Celt remains, but his name, lie has lost his foreign distinctness, much of his physiognomy, and all the peculiar characteristics of his origin ; so that the true identity existing between England and America is an identity of race. ( )ther things are but the external adornings of the same soul and body, the same mental and material organization. Imgland's sons, language, S(>ntimcnts, freedom, enterprise, courage, religion, — all live in America ; and are uniting to fonn the greatest empire of race on which the sun ever shone. England consequently re-appears on American ground ; and it is impossible historiadl 1/ to separate the destinies of the s.ame people ; the annals of the Anglo-Saxon race must ever include the American branch. The mrvey now presented to the public can lay claim to nothing more than an outline. It would require much niore leisure and information than are in the possession of the author, to give a full, a complete, narrative of — as he conscientiously believes — the most gigantic and extraordi- nary developement of religious truth which has taken place in modern times. The work, even its present state, appears under some disadvantage, from the fact that, when in the States, the author had not the most remote idea of writing a book ; his notes were consequently not taken with any view to such a purpose. From this circumstance his materiel was necessjirily scanty ; but the scenes through which he passed, ^a, AnVRRTlsHMIiNT. Y .inJ the facts and incidents wliicli canw hoforr his attention, wen* very vividly iniprcsst'd upon liis memory, lie has liad consequently to draw largely on this resouree. With what success, those on the spot alone can jud^e; hut In' is persuaded that, though many things may not he so full r»nd circumstantial as if he had entertained the inten- tion of puhlication, yet he is certain that no fiiet is falsi- fied ; and no scenery, whether of nature, society, or reli- gion, has received an uiifrif colouring. In addition to the desire, as hefore stated, to give information respecting the state of the Alethodist church, as the predominating motive, the author feels himself under an imperative ohligation, as a mere matter of justice, to communicate his impressions respecting his reception l»y the American hody. If they received the messenger of the British Conference with affectionate respect (^s -swr//, is it not fitting that their good-will, their fraternal ri'gard, their unabated affection towards the parent hotly, their continued unity and oneness with us in spirit and faith, should be made known ? And, moreover, as it has pleased God to bless, to ])rosper,to enhirge,and to render triumphant that church which, in its ecclesiastical form, was i)lanted by John Wesley, and nurtured by some of his most distin- guished sons in the gospel ; does it not seem proper that such an occasion as a visit to this church should, in some way, be connected with a report of its actual state ? With these impressions, though with great reluctance, the author is impelled to publish this volume, not doubting but that the liearty good-will of the American-^[ethodist church will be as heartily reciprocated by the JMethodist body in this country. Birmingham^ March 26 C'am|»h«'ll — Nk-s- IIKTisIll i'J Chap. VI. — Cincinnati — Mr. Smith — Aul)urn — A Storm in tlic Country — ni>ho|i M'llvain's Country Ucsidcnco — ,\ Fire — The Sahhalii — The City— Start for Sanchisky — Tlic Forest — DithcuUios of ch-aring Land — Tlic Kailroa'l througli the Forest — A Stage Journey — .Vrrival at L'rhana — Arrival at Sandusk v 7.'i age. Chai". VII. — Tlic Lakes — Krie — Pass down — Hutfalo— V;„Qra- ra Kivcr — Scenery on its IJanks — The Falls of Niagaiti - Canada — The People — Visit tlie Battle-Field of Lun ly- Laiie — The Suspension-Hridge — St. Catherine's — "amiltt.n VJ Chaj'. VIII. -Ontario— Toronto— Dr. Rycrson— Sir F. n. Head — iiishop Stiachan — The Cily — Departure for King- ston — Mr. Koltinson — Mr. Holton — Cohurg ('olle\;e — Kingston — Pass up the Hay of (Juinti — Melleville — The (.'anada Conference — The Union — Return to Kingston ... ye, 21) CiiAi'. IX. — The St. Lawrence — The Thousand Islands — The Rapids—Montreal— The City— The Cathedral— The Me- thodist Chapel — Storm — The Earl of Elgin — The Roman- ists — Passage to Quebec — The City — The Plains of Abra- ham — (leneral \Volfe — Fortifications — A rural Repast — Falls of Montmorenei — The French Ilabitaus- -Reflections on Canada 1 0.'i Chap. X. — Return — Pass the St. Lawrence — Lake Champlain — Plattsburgh — Whitehall — Journey by Stage — Troy — Albany — The Hudson — Arrival at New-York — 111 — Doubt- ful respecting being able to return Home — Resolve to do so — Depart for Boston — Embark on board the " America" Passage — Arrival at Home 120 Chap. XI. — Reflections on America — I'nfairly dealt with by Travellers — A religious Peojde — This necessaiy to explain their State — The real Americans not hostile to this Coun- try — Their peaceful and prosperous Condition — Education, the Principles on which it is conducted — Tlu Force of Christianity in its simply Divine Authority — The Ameri- cans trust in this — Public Worship and the Duties of Religion — Slavery partly removed by the Influence of Christian Principle 126 . w-^afitr-' r>*.«?aic7. VUl CONTEMS. PART II. HISTORICAL NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. Page. Chap. I. — Introductory Remarks — Mr. Wesley's great Talent for Government — The Contidcnce reposed in him — His disinterested Encouragement to all who were capable of rendering Service to ReUgion — IJccame the 13ond of Union to the first Methodists in America 152 Chap. II. — The Introduction of Methodism into New-York — Philip Emhurj' — Begins to preach — Ca])tain Webh — The first Society — I'reaching-I louses — Robert Strawbridge com- mences preaching in Maryland — Freeborn Garrettson — Captain Webb's Labours in Long Island and Philadelphia — Attempts to get Mr. Benson ajjpoiuted to America — Reflections on these Agents — The Class-Meeting ir)8 Chap. III. — Application to Mr. Wesley for Missionaries — Messrs. Boardman and Pilmoor ajipoiutcd — Account of the State of Things — Messrs. Ashury and Wriglit — Account of the former — The Spirit of the Clergy — Mr. Javratt — Thomas Rankin and George Shadford arrive — First Con- ference 1G9 Chap. IV. — The revolutionary Period — Messrs. Rankin, Shad- ford, and Rodda depart for England — Adventures of Shad- ford — Ashury determines to remain — His Exercises of Mind — Finds Refuge in the House of Judge White — Per- secutions of Messrs, Hartley and Garrettson — Mr. Jarratt's Account of a Revival of Religion in Virginia — Reflections on the Revolution — John Calvin's Dogma — Originates the Revolution — Its Success 177 Chap. V. — Measures preparatory to the Organization of the Methodist Ei>iscopal Church — Application of the People to Mr. Wesley — His Advice — Dr. Bangs's Account — The Church formed — Success 195 Chap. VI. — The new Order of Things — Mr. Ashury becomes the real Bishop of the Ciiurch — His Character and Qualifica- tions for the Otlice — Dr. Coke exceeds his Powers — Certi- ficate — The E])iscopacy defined and guarded — Mr. Wesley's Ott'ence at the use of the Term "Bishop" — Letter to Ashury — Dr. Coke in Difliculties respecting the Address to Washington — And on Slavery — The Church takes its Standing amongst the Institutions of the United States. ... 206 CONTENTS. IX 'age. 152 1J8 1 09 95 PART III. THE INSTITUTIONS OF THE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH. Pags. Chap. I. — The doctrinal Basis of the Church — The Articles of Religion — TIul; places the Church on a System of dogma- tical Truth — The Difference hetween this and the English System 215 Chap. II.— The federal Nature of the Church— The Idea of Unity — How secured — Doctrinal — Visible governing Power — Episcopacy 218 Chap. III. — The Methodist Church in its Subdivisions — The Circuit and Station — The Station an Innovation — Tlie Quarterly-Meeting Conference — Its Powers 222 Chap. IV. — Subdivisions continued — The District — How con- stituted — The presiding Elder — Rules and Laws — The several Orders of Ministers 225 Chap. V. — Subdivisions continued — The Episcopacy — l}isho]is, how appointed — Laws and Regulations — Reflections — The Division of Labour amongst the Bishojis — Names of tliose who have received this Office — Purity of Election — I'opu- larity ' 228 Chap. VI. — Subdivisions continued — The Annual Conference — How constituted — Its Functions — Elects Delegates to the General Conference 234 Chap. VII. — Subdivisions continued — The General Co* '-^rence — Dr. liangs's Account of its Formation — Its IN)Vvers — Fundamental Princ'ples — Reflections 235 Chap. VIII. — Subdivisions continue(' — The Author's Presence at the Pittsburgh v'eueral Conference — Impressions — The IJi- sliops — Tlie Ministers — Mode of Debate — Decorum and Order — (iucsfions at issue — Mode of conducting Appeal Cases — Reflections 239 16 rs^^2SSBS^SSii£t rONTENTS. PART IV. TERRITORIAL PROGRESS OF THE AMERICAN MLTHODIST El'ISCOl'AL CHURCH. I.' — THK ATI-ANTIC CONFERKNCES. Page. Maine 251 New-Hani[)shiic 252 New-England 25:i Providence 202 New- York 203 New- Jersey 207 IMiiladelphia 20H lialtimore 270 Virginia 273 North Carolina 275 South Carolina 270 Georgia 278 Florida 284 II. THK HUDSON AND LAKK LINE. Troy 295 Vermont 297 Black-River 300 Oneida 304 Genesee 304 Erie 306 North Ohio 307 Michigan 308 North Indiana 310 Rock-River 311 in. THE OHIO LINE. Pittshurgh 320 Ohio 325 Louisville 334 Kentucky 334 Holston 339 I ndiana 342 Tennessee 342 IV. THE MISSISSIPPI LINE. Iowa 358 Illinois 358 Missouri 359 St. Louis 360 ^ i-i CONTENTS. XI Page. Arkansas 30 1 Memphis 301 Mississippi 302 Louisiana 304 Alabama 305 Texas 365 East Texas 300 Oregon 306 Indian Missions 367 FART V. MEASURES ADOPTED BY THE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH ON THE SUBJECT OF SLAVERY. Chap. L — Laws on the Subject — Preachers from the Beginning held anti-slavery Views — Opposition of the Planters — The Power of the separate States — Dilficuliies arising from this . 392 Chap. IL — The Wesleyan-Methodist Connexion — Agitations — The Address of the British Conference — Orange Scott — Debates at the General Conference — The Spirit of Compro- mis** prevails — Fails to heal the Breach — Agitations pro- ceed — Separation — The New Community established 400 Chap. IIL — The Methodist Episcopal Church, South — Progress of the Movement after the former Division — Change of Opinion in the Baltimore Conference — Condemnation of Harding — Confirmed by the General Conference — Bishop Andrew's Case — Debates — Resolutions against him — Pro- test of the South 420 Chap. IV. — Organization of the Church, South — Preliminary Proceedings — Convention — Measures taken — Settlement — Real Position — Reflections 402 ^^3iiR^2ss^tr3gi5aaB-?fe~ -^—-asK:-: f METHODISM IN AMERICA. PART I. PERSONAL NARRATIVE. -*' \ Chap. I. — The Voyage — Company on Board — Sunday — Reflections — Atlantic — Agitation — Steam Power — Miracles — Banks of New- foundland — A Snoiv-storm — Halifax — Nova-Scotia — Passengers — Morality. We went on board the "Acadia," Captain Stone, at Liverpool, bound for Boston, on Saturday, April 8th, 1848 ; a beautiful vessel, well fitted up with a fine and spacious saloon above deck. I found my friend, Mr. Kaye, had engaged for me one of the best berths, which I went at once to possess. I had not been there long, before a Quebec gentleman entered to share it with me, — a good- looking, open-faced man; and, as I supposed I must necessarily have a cabin-mate, I thought myself well suited in my companion. This, however, was evidently not the impression of my friend. Whether he was alarmed at the sight of a parsonic name on my trunks, or uncomfortable on other grounds, I know not ; but he instantly became fidget"^ exhorted me to go to the Purser, and get a berth to myself; saying, that I should have more influence than himself. I concluded this was perfectly unnecessary on my part, feeling quite sure he would accomplish the change for himself, if I left him alone. In a few minutes he came for his luggage, having obtained a berth "for- ward;" and, on seeing the Purser, he told me they had agreed to leave me "alone in my glory." This, to me, was joyful news, and seemed a good beginning. It is customary for passengers to choose their seats at the table, and they who are first on board have the best chance. Being in good time, I had the opportunity of selecting my own place. My friend, Mr, Willey, who B 2nr> m* TTiir-^Tiiiai 2 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. went on board with me, and knew much more of such matters than myself, fixed upon a comer-scat, saying it would be out of draughts. For my part, I did not much like it, inasmuch as I thought it would place me at the lower end of the table. I had no objection to a midway place, but felt unwilling to be at the very bottom, and out of the way of everybody. However, for the rea- son above mentioned, I submitted, rather reluctantly, to my fate. This seat, however, turned out to be on the right-hand of the chair of the second table. The company one falls in A>ith on board ship, is very important. The manners, temper, conversation, disposition to accommo- date, are vital points in such contiguity; and, in the many squalls which must take place in a voyage at sea, it is pos- sible for people, closely packed, to make themselves and others very unhappy, if so disposed. When dinner was announced, I took my place in my new locality, somewhat curious as to what the issue would be. The chair was taken by an elderly ofl&cer of the royal navy, dressed in his uniform and the insignia of his rank. We looked upon him with interest. He proved to be, as is generally the case with men in his situation, a complete gentleman, courteous, urbane, and communi- cative. A more beautifully placid and benevolent counte- nance cannot be imagined. He had been in the service forty years ; had travelled in most parts of the world ; had passed through many interesting scenes; and willingly communicated his stores of anecdote and information. On my right hand sat an elderly person, a perfect pattern of an English country gentleman of the old school. It turned out that his home was Baltimore ; and, if he might be taken as a sample of the citizens of that place, they are certainly a fine race of people. Before our meeting, I had seen a gentleman on deck, whose face and bearing arrested my attention. I said to myself, " There is something in you." I did not much like him, however, at first sight, because he seemed to resemble a famous statesman of our country, once very popular, now very low. This gentleman sat exactly opposite me. We looked rather askance at each other. He opened out very slowly, but did so by degrees ; and I suppose it was the same with myself. This gentleman I found to be one of the most intelligent and vv^ell-informed men I ever met. I afterwards imderstood he was an American of the old Bostonian school ; that he lived near Plymouth, the PART I. CHAPTER I. 3 Iwas lone jver I the the landing-place of the " Pilgrim Fathers ; " had seen all America ; thoroughly understood the character of its insti- tutions, civil and religious ; had travelled through Europe, and in some parts more than once ; was conver- sant with literary subjects ; knew all the leading poli- ticians of liis own country, and many in European nations ; and, like all such men, was extremely courteous, free from dogmatism, and, though a decided American, per- fectly open to conversation respecting their institutions, and equally willing to admit the excellency of other countries, especially that of England. I found this gen- tleman a most interesting companion. Thus ensconced in the outset of the voyage, other things being favourable, we had the promise of an agreeable passage. On the following morning, Sunday, whilst at breakfast, an ofl&cer came with Captain Stone's compliments to desire me to conduct divine service. To this I cheerfully and thankfully assented. Going to the Captain, I asked him if it would comport with their usages, and be agreeable, for me to preach. He consented, on the condition that the discourse was short ; stating, that it would be inconve- nient for the men to be engaged for a long time. On going to the desk, I found the crew and passengers in their places, — the former neat, clean, and well-behaved, and the latter perfectly orderly, and some of them appa- rently devout. There sat beneath the desk as clerk a fine young ofl&cer, dressed in his ofl&cial habiliments. He responded most nobly, and like a person accustomed to the employment. When the service was concluded, this young oflRcer came to me, (he proved to be the Sur- geon of the ship,) and said, " Perhaps you may have some knoAvledge of the name of my grandfather. My name is Paley. I am the grandson of Archdeacon Paley." I assured him I was perfectly acquainted wdth the >mting3 of his great and honoured relative, and, like everybody else, greatly esteemed them. This young gentleman bears a striking resemblance to the pictures of the Archdeacon ; and appeared perfectly frank, open-hearted, and honour- able. Sunday on board ship is a melancholy day ; at least so it proved to me. The thought of the assemblies of the saints ; the order and religion of the study, the closet, the family; all now broken in upon, by the strife and agitation around: — this, together with great p.nxiety for those left behind, pressed painfully upon my mind. "Wes- b2 ■\A n--rJBTr-T!K 4 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. ley's Hymns were a great solace. Nothing is broad, deep, and elevated enough for the soul in her solitude, her sorrows, and her joys, hut sacred poetry, connecting one with the Saviour, with the mysterious, with the eternal. The sea is calculated to heighten this feeling ; for what is the ocean, but a mirror of God's infinity ? and what is the roar of its mighty waters, but the voice, the poetry, the music of that infinity ? On leaving Cape Clear, and entering the Atlantic, we were met by its surges as if in regal wrath ! The majestic ocean seemed perfectly infuriated by the invasion of his domain. I could compare this seeming anger to nothing but to that of a mighty animal taking up a diminutive one in his teeth, and furiously shaking him in his rage. Our noble vessel was no more in the jaws of the Atlantic than a lap-dog in those of a lion. The wind blew right a-head, and met us in the teeth, dashing the waves and spray furiously against our bow. We had not to encoun- ter a storm, in the usual sense of the expression ; but our old sea-officer, of forty years' standing, declared he had never seen the sea so rough. We were, probably, encoun- tering the effects of distant hurricanes. The agitation and swell were indescribable. The " fountains of the great deep " seemed as if " broken up ;" and from beneath, as well as from every point of the compass, the waters pre- sented the appearance of imiversal anarchy, confusion, and agitation. This state of things continued for -four or five days, the effects on the passengers being such as are usual in these cases. The ladies were entirely absent, cooped up in their cabin, or rolling in their berths, as the case might be ; no doubt amiably bearing ivith good temper such feelings as a bilious stomach is calculated to excite ; and, being fellows in misfortune, expending upon each other those delicate sympathies which companionship in misery always produces. The gentlemen were seen, some groaning in their beds, some lying in mummy fashion, as if deprived of the characteristics of animated, talking, and thinking beings ; and others, more resolute, or a little less mise- rable, than their fellows, were seen staggering about deck, eagerly hastening, every now and then, to the sides of the ship for a purpose not to be named. One woe-begone French Canadian fixed himself in a camp-chair near the c;himney to keep himself warm, and, with a rare heroism of the passive sort, continued to occupy his post nearly to PART I. CIIAPTEU I. to the end of tlic voyage. By tliis means lie prosorvcd some sort of equilibrium, and licld up in the midst of the general discomfiture. For myself, I was as goo«l a sailor as any of them; and much better than the majority. Reso- lution does great things in these matters. If a vot/fu/atr wishes to have a feat of sea-sicknes;?, as an adventure, to put into his hook, he mcay easily obtain one ; the power of sympathy will soon do its work ; and, in case he possess and indulge a certain fastidiousness in the sight of things not very delicate, he may pay the penalty of his sensitive- ness by becoming just as loathsome as any of those wliich excited the disgust of his olfactory or other nerves. For my ovm part, I entertained no ambition or desire to de- scribe the sensations peculiar to these sea-adventures in my own person, resolutely braved every temptation to yield, which were sometimes forcible enough, and ntavly altogether escaped. But the effects of these agitations of the sea, in other respects, were very singular. I was obliged to stuff somt; solid material on both sides when in my berth ; in the one case, to keep me from rolling agiiinst the hard side ol the ship ; and, in the other, to prevent the more serious catastrophe of tumbling out upon the floor. Some of the passengers had the precaution to employ the carpenter to fasten a board to prevent the last disaster ; but I con- tented myself in the use of trunks and other appliances, and by these means preserved my bidance. But this motion was not by fmy means the only one. The giant ocean not only shook the ship, making every timber creak as if some of her bolts and screws must every moment give way, but a similar trial of the tim- bers of the human frame was equally produced by the conflicting agitation. This to me was a matter of curio- sity and observation. The motion seemed to pull, jerk, toss, twist one in every possible manner. Now the action would be rolling, then longitudinal, pulling a-head and then astern, backwards and forwards, as if an irresistible power had resolved to make sport with one. During several days we made but slow progress. But that we made any progress at all, was a remarkable proof of the genius and the mechanical skill of man. Nothing gives so striking an illustration of the wonderful effects of steam-power as progress made in such circumstances. The waves were constantly rolling against us ; driven by a mighty swell which, no doubt, was increased in strength by ma PERSONAL NARRATIVE. the accumulated impetus of storms, currents, tides, all flowing in the same direction, and meeting us in all their power. -And yet we made waj against this combination of adverse elements. We appeared in some sort to beat nature in a battle with her mightiest forces. How amaz- ing this power ! There must be something providential and divine in this. God seems to have bestowed upon man the means of surmounting the difficulties of his position, and of overcoming even the ordinary, current and course of his own laws, as they are developed in tides and winds. We decry miracles ; what is a steamboat crossing the Atlantic, in the midst of opposing powers, but a mira- cle ? Have we not here a force above nature ? What is this but a miracle, in the sense in which miracles are generally described ? Is not a miracle the mastery of natural elements by mind, whether immediately by God, or mediately by his commission to man ? Do we not in this, and in similar things, perceive the God of provi- dence intrusting to man a physical and a social power, perfectly distinct and isolated above the laws of nature, so far as this is concerned ? Do we not see the mighty machine, instinct with artificial life, — imparted, it is true, directly by the skill of man, but given to him by the teaching and providence of God, — majestically riding above the storm and the waves, in despite of all opposi- tion ? If in this — may we call it humanized ? — miracle we behold nature beaten in some of her forces and forms of power ; why may not miracles, on a higher scale, and for more sacred purposes, wrought by the immediate interposition of God, be true and real ? We are sur- rounded by mysteries and miracles, if we had eyes to see them ; and, certainly, one of the most remarkable which are made visible is, that man's skill and science should be able to achieve so great an exploit as to impel a ship of fifteen himdred tons across the ocean, in despite of the united forces of wind and waves. Nothing more occurred in our outward voyage of any consequence, till we arrived on the banks of Newfound- land, when whales appeared, snorting and blowing above the surface of the mighty deep, and a remarkable snow- storm. The whales I w^as not permitted to see, being confined to my cabin ; but the snow-storm was such as I had never witnessed before. It continued for the space of fifteen hours : during this time it descended inces- santly, in quantities which, had they fallen on the land, PART I. CHAPTER I. t \ must have covered the surface to a great depth. This storm gave us a notion of the miserahle condition of Newfoundland and Nova-Scotia, from which direction it came. No iceberg, however, appeared, and we continued our course in the midst of the dismal scene around us. We made Halifax in the middle of the night, and many of the young and active spirits on board landed, and, by moonlight, perambulated the place, being much delighted to set foot again on terra-Jii^ia. I was denied this pleasure, being still confined to my berth, and not daring to stir to encounter the climate which, a day or two before, had sent us the present of the snow-storm. On inquiring of a lady, who was about to land at Halifax, if she knew Mr. liennett, our long-tried and excellent Missionary there, she told me she was well acquainted with him, and lived nearly opposite to his dwelling. One of my anticipated pleasures, on reaching Halifax, was to see and converse with this venerable and eminently useful man, and the other Missionaries; but, being deprived of this gratification, all I could do was to send my Christian salutations. The next day we steamed along the coast of Nova- Scotia, which was clearly in sight for many leagues. It had the appearance of sand-hills, and seemed most dreary and barren. No doubt a nearer approach would have given a dififerent view ; and a sojourn in the country itself, I was told, would, in a short penod, as the season advanced, have banished the illusion altogether. We lost sight of land again in crossing the Bay of Fundy ; but were cheered by the expectation of seeing the shores of the United States. This expectation of soon landing pro- duces mighty changes in the appearance of everybody. Countenances which before had been bilious and gloomy, brightened up; parties whose lips, which had been closed by taciturn propensities, were now opened, and their tongues unloosed ; those who had confined themselves very much in their cabins, spending the time as best they could, were seen stretching their necks on deck, to gain a first glimpse of land ; and many who seemed, up to this time, to take little interest in those about them, became very friendly. Before parting, a sort of con-fraternity was established. Family interests and affections appeared to have grown up ; and a number of strangers, who never saw each other before, parted as if bidmng adieu to near relatives. These were certainly my own feelings, and I have rea- mtm 8 PERSONAL NARRATITE. son to boliovc that tlioy wore shared by otlicrs ; and, more- over, tlie sight of one of these feUovv-passengers now, or at any time, would ghiddeu my heart in a manner very unusual with the casual knowledge of men met with on land. While mentioning passengers, justice requires me to record the fact, that through the whole of the voyage not the least unpleasantness, in word or deed, arose in any quarter. The Captain was a most courteous and kind- hearted man. But to myself favours were shown from other quarters. l*erceiving that I was suffering great pain, several young gentlemen, some of whom I had reason to believe were officers in the army going to Canada, manifested a degree of sympathy and attention not only very agreeable, l)ut surprising, in young men full of life and spirits. But they had just left a home endeared to them, no doubt, by the attachments of parents, sisters, brothers ; and it seemed to be no constraint, either upon their nature or their education, to manifest sympathy and regard to a stranger in suffering. I saw, in some of these young gentlemen, signs of strong emotion when conversa- tion recalled their thoughts and feelings to their parents and homes. Let us do justice to man in all conditions of his existence. It is a pleasure to meet with exhibitions of filial piety anywhere, but especially so in such circum- stances. And, so far as my observation went, the morality of our little community on board the " Acadia " was unsullied by any external vice. Chap. II. — Boston — The Sahhath — C/iangett of Doctrine — Methodist Preachers^ Meeting at the Book Depot — Bunker's Hill — The Common — The State-House — Churches — The City — Daniel Web- ster — Set out for Neir-York — Railroad Cars — The Country — Neio-Haven — The Sound — Scene on boarr.. the Steamer — New- York Harbour. On Sunday, April 23d, after a passage of fifteen days, we made Boston. To an inexperienced eye, the approach to the harbour is extremely intricate ; and several points are well fortified. One channel is so narrow, and the works so completely command the entrance, that it seems impossible for hostile ships to enter. The view of the city from the sea is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful. The greater part, standing on rising ground, presents to the observer the aspect of a place finely laid out, and r PART I. CHAPTER II. 9 r adorned by numerous churclies and public buildings. The water was sufficiently deep to allow us to [)lacc our noble vessel alongside the wharf, and step from the ship to the sliore. We reached the landing-place about five o'clock in the afternoon, and were glad to set our feet again on solid land. The business of opening our trunks for the inspection of the Custom-house officers immedi- ately commenced. Standing quietly on the outside of the crowd, I was warned by my good friend, Dr. Paley, that if I did not bestir myself and do something to get the officers to inspect my portmanteaus, I should be the last of the batch, and should be driven far into the dark ; saying, at the same time, he would help me to open them, and speak to one of the officers. Both these kind offices he per- formed ; and after the man had glanced at the contents, he went away, and Dr. Paley told me I must pay tliree shillings for the trouble of inspection. This business being finished, I wended my way to tlu- Rivier Hotel, recommended by Mr. AVeston, the American gentleman before mentioned, and found most comfbrtabh! accommodation. Having been advised by the Doctor to have my face examined by a dentist as soon as I got on sliore, the preliminaries of eating and drinking being over, I sent for one of these gentlemen. He was at church, and could not be obtained for some time. Tt may be proper to mention that the Idesscd Siibbath appeared, in our passage up the city, to be strictly observed by the descendants of the pilgrim fathers. They liavo very much changed their creed from stem Calvinism to the liberal system of Channing ; but seem to retain their church- going habits in the midst of the change. The streets were perfectly quiet, few persons were seen in motion, whilst every place of worship was filled with orderly worshippers. It is, however, a painful reflection that the churches of such men as Cotton iMather should now be occupied by a race who preach a diluted kind of Soci- nianism. The glory has, in this case, surely departed ; for though the rugged doctrines of the first settlers were not, in our views, exactly according to the truth, yet the bold, broad, deep faith of the pilgrims in the verities of grace, the work of the Saviour, and the sovereign provi- dence of God, were certainly infinitely preferable to the meagre and flimsy philosophy now announced in their pulpits. Is not this an instance of re-action ? The bow, as in many other cases, was pulled too far ; and the conse- B 5 ifiiWiii ]0 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. i! quence has been, tliat the perception of the error has led to a rebound on the other side. After divine service, Dr. Hitchcock made liis appear- ance. As soon as he entered he exclaimed, " Why, I am sure I have seen you before. Did not you preach Mis- sionary sermons at Jewin-street, London, on such an occasion, and at such a time ?" " Yes, I certainly did," was the reply. " Ah, then, I heard you ; I was stopping at Mr. Cave's ; and you gave out the words, ' Those dark Americans conv(Mt : ' now that was too bad." I had, of course, to explain that the hymn, which was composed more than a hundred years ago, could not relate to the European population of America, but to the aboriginal inhabitants, the Indians. The effect of seeing a man who knew me was like magic. The pain left me, and I willingly took his advice to put off all idea of opera- tions until the following morning. After performing two the next day, this gentleman generously refused the proffered fee, saying, he never took a fee from a minister. On Monday morning Dr. Hitchcock undertook to inform the Methodist ministers of the place that I had arrived. In a short time the Rev. A. Stevens, editor of "Zion's Herald," made his appearance, with a profusion of apologies that none of them had met me on landing, and conducted me to the house of one of the friends, who had kindly engaged to find me lodgings in case I landed at Boston. I found this first Methodist minister whom I had the happiness to meet in America, a very intelligent and superior man, full of kind feeling, and prepared to make my short stay as agreeable and instructive as possible. He first took me to the Book-Concern, where the preachers of the city were holding their weekly meet- ing. They had finished their business ; but I found a dozen or more of these good men, and had much very friendly conversation with them. They put many ques- tions respecting English Methodism, and seemed greatly interested in our affairs. In turn, I proposed some queries to them, and obtained information, of which I was before ignorant, respecting the nature of their work, and their modes of proceeding. Whilst this conversation was going on, my good friend Stevens had hired a vehicle to take me through and round the city. We set off in grand style, after the American fashion, dashing away through the crowded streets, and were not PART I. CHAPTER II. 11 )m as ^hcre kieet- id a Ivory lues- jatly jries kfore their )ing me lion, not long before we were neatly jammed in the narrow space betwixt the body of a cart and its wheel. The collision broke no bones, and did no damage to our vehicle, though pretty severe and sufficiently alarming to any one but a Yankee. My companion drove me to Bunker's Hill, the scene of the famous battle of that name, and one of the first fought in the war of independence. The battle- ground is now surmounted by a pillar commemorative of the event. The site on which it stands has not much the appearance of a hill, being only sixty-two feet above the level of the sea. The foundation-stone was laid by La Fayette, on June 17th, 1825, being the jubilee, or fiftieth anniversary, of the battle. Its form is that of an obelisk, thirty feet square at the base, and sixteen feet four and a half inches at the top. The height from the base is two hundred and twenty-one feet. At the summit of this pillar is an elliptical chamber, seventeen feet high and eleven feet in diameter, with four windows, commanding a view in the direction of the four points of the compass. Ascending the steps of this monument, we obtained a most magnificent view of the city, the sea, and the sur- rounding country. The town, or rather three or four towns, as seen from this point, are curious enough. Boston Proper is built on a peninsula, three miles long and one broad ; chosen probably as ftimishing the means of defence against the attacks of the Indians ; so, at least, it struck me ai the time. But the modems have managed to add to it what is called South Boston, formerly a part of Dorchester, and East Boston, anciently Noddle's Island. The peninsula had originally an uneven surface, and the place received the name of " Trimountain," so called from its three hills. The new portions are connected with the old and principal city by various bridges and ferry-boats, all of which are seen from the monument. The place may not resemble Venice in its chief features, but it is Venetian in the fact of its apparently standing, if not in, yet very much sun'ounded by, water. My friend seemed to doubt whether I should have the magnanimity to ascend this monument of American prowess and independence, and was evidently surprised when he found that it Wfis my purpose to do so. In such circumstances, however, I thought the wiser way was to forget past quarrels, and make the best of present oppor- tunities of observation and pleasure. It is of little use to cherish old grudges; and, certainly, it can indicate nothing i1lllllliSS!?5Sas!*-:-'r-3!WKa^ 12 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. l!!^ but folly for Englishmen and Americans to entertain ill feelingj on account of national differences. After descending from the monument, my kind con- ductor hastened to the Common ; a fine piece of ground, ornamented with trees, which is, in point of fact, what we should call " a park." This Common is the public prome- nade of the good citizens of Boston, who resort to it for fresh air and recreation. This place possesses, also, some Methodistic traditionary lame. Let my friend Stevens give the history. " In the centre of the Boston Common still stands a gigantic elm, the crowning ornament of the beautiful scenery. On a fine summer afternoon in July, 1790, a man of middle age, of a serene, but shrewd, coun- tenance, and dressed in a style of simplicity which might have been taken for tb' guise of a Quaker, took his stand upon a table beneath the branches of the venerable tree. Four persons approached, and gazed upon him with sur- prise while he sang a hymn. It was sung by his solitary voice ; at its conclusion he knelt down upon the table, and, stretching forth his hands, prayed with a fervour and unction so unwonted in the cool and minute petitions of the Puritan pulpits, that it attracted the groups of proraenaders who had come to spend an evening hour in the shady walks, and by the time he rose from hL knees they were streaming in processions from the different points of the Common towards him. While he opened his small Bible, and preached to them without notes, but in the demonstration of the Spirit and of power, the multitude grew into a dense mass, three thousand strong, eagerly catching every utterance of the singular stranger, and some of them receiving his message into ' honest and good hearts.' That bold evangelist was Jesse Lee, — the founder, under God, of Methodism in New-Eng- land."* After exploring the Common, we visited the State- House, that is, the Parliament-house of the State of Massachusetts, standing on elevated ground at the upper end of +he Common. The House was in session, and, at the time, engaged in their legislative functions. We met, on entering, in one of the lobbies, a tall athletic gentle- man, about sixty, his face and brow being marked with intelligence and deep thought. He belonged to the ♦ Stevens's " Memorials of the Introduction of Methodism into the Eastern States," pp. 1, 2. I PART I. CHAPTER II, 13 Ipper at net, itle- dth tlie into k Senate, or Upper House ; and, after shaking hands with Mr. Stevens, was introduced to me as one of our bre- thren, — a noble Methodist. On leaving the Senate, we entered the House, as it is called, meaning the House of Representatives. We were conducted into the body of the chamber, and took our seats amongst the members. This being the first time I had seen an Ameri - can legislative assembly, I, of course, felt curious to see and hear all I could. The hall is circular, or semi-circu- lar, the seats of the members rising gradually above each other in amphitheatrical style, each being understood to belong to the gentlemen returned for certain constitu- encies, and furnished with a desk for the convenience of writing. The debate going on was not very interesting, having relation to a fisheiy. We heard tliree or four speakers. There was nothing that could be designated eloquence ; for who could be eloquent about catching fish ? But we had good sense, and no more imperfections of English and of style than may be heard any day in our ovm House of Commons. The chamber was nearly full of members ; every man seemed to be attending to his duties, and intent upon the business that was before him. We saw here portraits of all tJie old Puritans of former times ; such as Winthrop, Elliot, and others ; a fine group of noble heads and glorious characters. But the chief attraction was a statue of Washington, by Chantrey. Without pretending to any great skill in the fine arts, this statue arrested me certainly more than any work of sculpture I ever beheld. The form, the drapery, the attitude, the features, the expression, are exquisitely given. The great patriot met, in Chantrey, an artist worthy of himself. By the by, it struck me that some of the features of Washington and John Wesley are much alike. Washington's features, indeed, seem to be larger and broader than Wesley's, and may not present to view so prominent and beautiful a profile ; but the lower part of the face appears very much to resemble that of Wesley, and the expression is very similar. From this central point of interest we made our way through the entire city, and beheld its churches, public buildings, shops, and private dwellings. Some parts of Boston have an air of antiquity, somewhat unusual in an American town. Fenouel Hall, erected in 1742, is much celebrated, and is, in reality, a fine building. The old State-House, at the head of State-street, is also a vene- "-Jt^^^ iMiif ■ wm '" £^:::rs3Bsri»^. «: 14 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. I! I ill I ji ,1 -I rable pile. It was originally built in 1658 ; and, after suffering from fire, was rebuilt in ] 747. It is said there are seventy-three churches in the city, of various dimen- sions and architectural beauty. I was most attracted, through the power of association, with those which were occupied by the Puritan fathers. The old churches bear the stamp of the plain, simple, spiritual faith of their founders ; the curious will meet little to gratify taste, but the serious Christian much to elicit reflection. The shops are handsome, and apparently well furnished ; and in the suburbs there are fine private houses. The city of Boston is thought to be more like an English town than any other in the Union, and this opinion is well founded ; but the resemblance is not exact in all respects. Many of the shops are stores ; the private houses are not laid out in our style, but often much better, being more spacious and airy ; the windows and ventilation are difier- ent, being framed to suit the state of the climate ; and the hotels, the accommodation, the attention paid, so far as I was concerned, far exceeded any thing ordinarily to be met with in England. The Bostonians are considered the most intellectual and cultivated community in the United States. But of this my opportunities furnished no means of judging. They seemed, indeed, difi^erent to the New- York people ; the latter exhibiting a much more commercial character. But do they excel the people of Baltimore ? Not, it struck me, in gentility of bearing, though they may outvie them in intellectual strength and cultivation. At any rate, they have taken the lead in all social and political movements of any consequence. They form the true Yankee stock, amongst whom the name originated, and their sentiments and opinions have given law to the whole Union. I just saw the shadow of their great citizen, Daniel Webster, passing in the street ; who had returned from his sena- torial duties to attend the obsequies of a beloved son, who had fallen in the Mexican war ; and, to complete the afiliction, it was thought by the time the remains of the son had arrived in Boston, a daughter would have ceased to exist, and be prepared to share the same grave with her brother. Such are the events of every quartet of the world ! Neither talent nor station can ward off the misfortunes and sorrows of life. The people were not wanting in sympathy ; but what sympathy can reach such woes as these ? PART I. CHAPTER II. 15 lents just |)ster, lena- hvho the the sed nth the the not kuch The day after visiting Boston I set out in company with Mr. Stevens, who, with his wife and other parties, was going to New- York, on their way to the Conference. We travelled by railroad to New-Haven. This was the first time I saw an American "railroad-car," as it is called. My reading had furnished me with a good stock of preju- dice, and I expected any thing rather than an agreeable journey. Bad rails, jolting carriages, disagreeable and odious accommodation, with the likelihood of getting oft' the line, and being maimed or knocked on the head, were the several ideas which filled my mind. First appear- ances did not tend to remove these impressions. The carriages looked like great monstrous machines; the wheels much larger, and the bodies prodigiously higher, than in our own country. These feelings were soon dissi- pated. I found myself in a spacious saloon, with an aisle, or path-way, down the middle, and high enough for the tall- est man to stand or walk upright. The seats appeared more promising still. They were placed across from the aisle to the window, and intended to hold two passen- gers each, beautifully lined and cushioned with velvet. These seats were so constructed as to turn up, and form a sort of family pew, in which the inmates might sit face to face. These compartments, so formed, accommodate four persons ; who might, if they chose, hold a friendly tete-a- tete as they journeyed on. The saloon is windowed from end to end ; and these windows draw up and down to admit the fresh air, at the discretion of the passengers. Each of these saloons is also furnished with an excellent stove, heated as the weather may require. I know not exactly how many persons one of these rooms will accom- modate, but certainly not less than sixty or eighty, and they are generally full. The speed is not so rapid as our first-class trains, but equal to some of those which move at a moderate rate. Travelling on, I began to think the thing was not so very bad. Apprehension of an overthrow soon gave way to confidence, and, so far as safety wjis a question, the matter was settled. But then the great room, and the juxta-position with all these Americans ! What of this ? I soon found occasion to be satisfied with this matter also. By the spaciousness of the saloons, and the means of moderating the atmosphere as occasion required, we obtained good air ; much more so than in the draughts or heated carriages in our own country. Then, again, the ^1! ,".'".'■' Atiufi'- 16 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. windows being continued from end to end on each side, we were spared the mortifying disappointment always felt when a fine view is within range by one of our lines ; we could gaze for a considerable length of time, and to a great extent, upon every object worth notice in the country. The landscapes obtained in this way were often very fine and picturesque. The state of the country, the progress of cultivation, the buildings find towns, and, in fine, every thing going on within sight of our route, might thus be pretty accurately seen. And then to be brought into contact with the people, — what can be so interesting to a traveller as this ? He is in search of living men ; he desires to witness their habits, to judge of their character, to hear their conversation, and to jom in it. A " railroad car " in America furnishes fine oppor- tunities for all this. These considerations soon put an end to my disquiet of mind, and I began to think that, in this affair, the Yankee had improved on the English- man ; and that his mode of constructing carriages, and managing railroad business, did no discredit to his sagacity and business-talent. The country through which we journeyed did not pre- sent many points of interest. The cultivation was on the whole good ; but the soil rocky and poor. The season, I found, was not so far advanced as in our own country when I left it ; and now, towards the end of April, but little vegetation appeared. The Americans declaim against our beautiful hedge-rows ; I suppose, on the principle of peo- ple who, not possessing an advantage themselves, are jealous in the case of others enjoying it. Be this as it may, there are few, scarcely any, quick-set hedges in America ; and I was told that the English thorn would not grow in their climate. Nothing can be more odious than the fences of the country; the landscape is per- fectly deformed by their appearance. The farmers employ long pieces of wood, no doubt cut up for the purpose. These are laid lengthways, crossing each other at the end, and piled up one upon another a sufficient height to keep their cattle from going astray. This mode of fence causes the whole country to look like one prodigious wood-yard ; and, in the absence of this wood, stone is employed. The enclosures are of greater or lesser extent, in which cattle and sheep are seen grazing, or com growing, as the case may be. The villages and towns on our route appeared very pretty; the houses being chiefly built of wood, S PART I. CHAPTER II. 17 peo- are as it in k^ould dious per- iploy pose, end, keep luses ard ; The lattle case red bod. painted white, and the window-sashes and blinds green. By these means an air of great cleanliness was secured, and many of these wooden buildings rose to magnificence, having a mansion-like appearance. I found afterwards that houses thus built of wood are capable of excluding wind and weather, and securing as great an amount of comfort and warmth as the more substantial erections of brick or stone. Springfield, the location of a Methodist collegiate estab- lishment, .ind once the residence of Dr. Fisk, is a very beautiful place ; the whole country having a most pictu- resque appearance, well cultivated, and the soil much bet- ter than any Ave had passed over. Our line, for many miles, lay by the side of the Connecticut ; and, as this was the first of the great American rivers which I had seen, I felt greatly excited by its appearance. It is a magnificent stream, though vastly inferior to many which I afterwards visited. The banks are very beautiful, and rich in meadow-land, studded with farm-houses and peaceful vil- lages. My reading ftimished me vnih some reminiscences respecting the first occupancy of this country by European settlers. How difi*erent now to the time when Indian tribes paddled their canoes in these waters, and disputed with the white man, by war, by stratagem, by fire and blood, the possession of the soil ! These sanguinary con- tests had taken place on every foot of ground we were traversing. Women and children had been cut off, and taken into a cruel captivity, in the absence of the men ; and it was not till a vast amount of human life had been sacrificed, that peace and abundance were made to take the place of a ruthless contest, which ended in the extirpa- tion or banishment of the original lords of the soil. Peacefiil flocks were now grazing, watched over by the children of the villages, where the war-whoop and the scalping-knife used to hold dominion. "We finished our railroad journey at New-Haven, and embarked on board a steamer. Our course lay up the Sound, skirted on one side by the Connecticut shore, and on the other by Long-Island. The Sound is a most mag- nificent inlet to New- York from the great Atlantic. Being now on board an American steamer for the first time, I was intent upon seeing whether the people in- dulged in those tobacco habits which travellers have almost uniformly attributed to them. We had been pretty free from any thing oflfensive in the railroad car ; and I began ■■V, ^>>^iiiyi'Higm|. >yga'g.,-,.-'*"^aW5'aH- 18 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. i It 1^ ill to doubt whether the reports were true, or to think they were exaggerations. I was soon undeceived. The prac- tice in question was almost general ; and nearly the whole deck soon became coloured and almost impassable. Amongst the rest of the passengers were two young peo- ple, male and female, who were evidently not man and wife, but in the probable Avay of becoming so. They were very respectable in their appearance and attire, — the young man having the bearing of a farmer of the first class ; and the lady, it is to be presumed, a farmer's daughter, of prepossessing appearance, dressed very gen- teelly, and withal wearing, what seemed to be pretty generally the fashion in America, a green veil. Our young couple, of course, avoided the public, kept them- selves in close quarters in one corner of the deck, and were in ardent conversation. In pacing backwards and forwards, my attention was attracted to this scene ; and I observed that the young gentleman, about every five minutes or less, poured forth a stream of tobacco saliva at the lady's feet. This, it is to be presumed, was by way of libation to his goddess ; it was an oficring of love. The thing seemed a perfect matter of course ; and neither the lady, nor anybody else, appeared in the least annoyed. It may be as well to dismiss this whole aflair at once ; and I am sorry to say, that, though I saw occa- sion to differ in opinion with American travellers on many points, in this I was obliged to agree with them. The deck of steamers seems to be the favourite arena for this kind of exploit. I declare, I saw men, again and again, sitting under the awnings of their beautiful vessels, when it would have been quite as convenient, and often more so, to pour the contents of their mouths into the water as upon the deck ; but they invariably preferred the latter, and rendered it next to impossible to move without treading in this liquid nuisance. Heaven is always propitious. In the midst of what was so offensive in man, nature presented great beauties and glorious scenery on every side. The entrance into New- York harbour on the side we took is very intri- cate, requiring great skill on the part of the pilot. "We had to pass a place which English jack-tars, when New- York was a British province, designated " Hell-hole," not a very religious, but certainly a very appropriate, name. It is a sort of whirlpool, and the waters are much agitated ; whilst the rocks in the river are of such a fe>.. PART I. CHAPTER II. 19 Iwhat luties into Intri- We few- lole," ]iate, are Ich a \ ! M. nature as to narrow up the channel and render destruc- tion certain if the exact course is not hit by the pilot's skill. In a bend of this intricate channel we were within an ace of running down a vessel, which, turning the point unseen, and getting into the curreut, was rendered perfectly helpless in herself, and was exposed to the instant rush of our steamer. With great promptitude and skill our Captain turned his vessel nearly round, so as completely to avoid the ill-fated ship, and she passed safely down the channel. The sight for some minutes was horrific. I felt perfectly certain that nothing could save us from being brought into collision ; and, had this taken place, one or both vessels must have gone to the bottom very near the place so ominously named " Hell- hole." We were spared this fate by a gracious interposition of Providence. As we ascended, we obtained a good view of the build- ings on the banks of the channel. Some of these are on Long-Island, and others in Brooklyn. The villas of the citizens of New- York are seen on each side ; and many of them are splendid and superb. The wealthy mer- chants and others seek repose from business, and invi- gorated health, in these princely retreats. Ship-building establishments, of great magnitude, are found in these quarters; and there is a goodly number of hospitals, asylums, prisons, and places of a similar description in view. New- York harbour itself breaks upon the view of the voyager on turning a promontory, all at once. The sight is dazzling. Nothing can be more imposing than the harbour, the shipping, and the city, thus bursting upon the astonished beholder. It is difficult, without drawings, to convey a true idea of this magnificent port, — one of the finest in the world. It is necessary to remark, that the city stands upon the fork of two great rivers ; one to the east, called East River, the other to the north, called North, or Hudson's-River. Oppo- site this tongue of land, at a considerable distance, is the upper end of Long-Island, which has the efiect of land- locking the harbour, guarding it from storms, and break- ing the swell of the Atlantic. By reason of this contiguity of Long-Island, the harbour possesses all the qualities of a prodigious bason, with the tongue, on which New- York stands, projecting into its centre. This fine piece of water is entered by two channels; the one from the Sound, which we passed, and the other immediately from the - — -^^ 'SW«"."-' '1 '"' 20 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. J Atlantic. This latter entrance is so narrow, that it is capahle of perfect defence ; and it seems impossible for any vessels to pass without being exposed to certain de- struction from the raking fire of the batteries. The other inlet to the harbour possesses natural defences, as no ship of war can ascend the rocky and shallow channel we passed. The ships are moored around the tongue on which the city stands, which forms a sort of crescent with the out- ward circle projecting into the water. Many hundred vessels of all sizes, some of the largest class, lay at anchor around this point of land, — if it can be called at anchor,— for there is depth of water sufficient to permit them to touch the wharf's without the use of the anclior. Here, in crescent form, these vessels lay, apparcnJly all round the lower point of the city ; and many of them ascending the two rivers, find a resting-place on the banks of these beautifiil streams. From this it will appear, that in case Long-Island was removed, New- York would be any thing' but a harbour ; and it would be altogether indebted to its rivers for a place of shelter for its ships. Long-Island is the patron saint of New- York, the guardian of its interests, — indeed, the cause of its greatness. Chap. III. — Netv-York — Harper's printing and publishing Estab' lishment — The Methodist Book-Concern — The Exchange and Ciistom-House — Esccitement respecting an anticipated Revolution in England — Charitable Institutions — The City — Leave for Balti- more — David Cramer, Esq, — The Journey — New-Jersey — Nen>- ark — Princeton — Trenton — The Delaware — Philadelphia — The Chesapeake Bay. On making the landing-place, we were met by Dr. Bangs, the historian of Methodism in America, Dr. Carson, author of " Loiterings in various Countries in Europe," and two of the Harpers, who all welcomed our arrival with hearty greetings. I was appointed to take up my residence in the family of Mr. Fletcher Harper, who at once conducted me to his hospitable home. Besides Mrs. Harper, sen., I here found a young lady recently married to one of Mr. Harper's sons, a countrywoman, from Lon- don, the daughter of Mr. Jeremiah Smith. Of course, I was at home at once ; had it not been so, I must have possessed a most morose and misanthropic nature ; for every thing was done for my comfort which friendship and aflfection could suggest. This was the first private family J I PART I. CHAPTER III. 81 it IS Dr. krson, ope," rrival I. I had been domiciled with in America ; and certainly the reception I met with, and the habits of the family, tended to give me a most favourable impression of the virtues of private life in the United iStates. But besides tiie order, decorum, and happiness so appa- rent in this Christian family, the house itself struck me as one of the most perfect I had ever seen. Every thing in America is executed on the most improved scale of com- mon-sense. Not that there is any want of taste, of ele- gance, of decoration ; but the basis of every arrangement seems to be that of utility and comfort. This house, so excellent of its kind, is but a sample of the rest. It stood in one of the streets, was one of a row of houses of the same size and form, and Avas neither greater nor bettor in appearance than those by which it was sur- rounded. This gives some insight into the style in which tlie higher class of merchants imd tradesmen in New- York live. I had only two days to spare for visiting the lions in New- York, and therefore set about the business in good earnest. It is surprising how much may be done in a short time, when resolution and industry are brought into requisition. On the first day, my good friend Mr. Harper conducted me through the city, showing me first his own establishment, the Methodist Book-Concern, the Custom- house, the Exchange, Trinity church. Broad- Way, the land-side of the harbour, visiting several magnificent ships, warehouses, and the rest. Mr. Harper's printing and publishing establishment is as remarkable as any thing in the way of business can well be imagined. Every thing is done on the same premises. A great number of presses are at work ; and one, called the " Adams press," from the name of the inventor, is remarkable. It was partly self-acting, an instrument of the nature of pincers, or rather a hand, taking hold of the paper as a roller revolved, and placing it so as to receive the designed impression; which, on coming from imder the cylinder, was received by a child, and placed in order. I understood that this machine could print, if necessary, letter-press to an indefinite length, — if the paper would admit it, of miles in extent. I saw the workmen forming stereotype plate-models, — a curious process. Vast piles of these plates, having done their duty in time past, were lying in store for further orders. In these extensive premises a great number of females were employed in stitching, '"^il'V^ 22 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. i!i 1 and matters of that nature. These females were under the inspection of a Roman (.'atholic forewoman, of {^eat intel- ligence and energy. She was from England, had lived in London ; and, though a Romanist, had strayed into City- Road chapel, and, having heard me preach at that place, at once recognised me, and seemed well pleased to see any one from home. We had, on entering the work-room of these females, .in example of American character and manners. IIoav did Mr. JIarper, one of the principals of the firm, and master of these people, accost them ? Did lie rudely vociferate his orders in dictatorial and impera- tivo language, after the English fashion ? No ! On enter- ing their apartment, he took off his hat, paid them the compliments of the morning, inquired after their he.ilth, and addressed them by the terra "young ladies." Was this affectation ? Not in the least. It had all the ap- pearance of habit ; and certainly in their bearing, dress, the absence of all sluttishness, these females de- served respectful treatment. This will be sneered at by many of our countrymen, as a specimen of Yankeyism. Well, be it so ; but, let us ask, Which is the man of breeding, the gentleman ? — the boisterous, imperious, swear- ing John Bull, giving his orders to his servants as if they were his slaves ? — or this American, thus addressing the people who supply the hands, the sinews, the labour, (though he may furnish the genius,) which are creating his fortime ? Besides the extensive business transacted at this establishment, these gentlemen have branch-estab- lishments in various parts of the country, on a large v'ale. This firm reprints many Ejiglish books ; and, having nothing to pay for copyright rad authorship, they are enabled to get out and publish our most approved works at a very che.ap rate. By reason of these cheap editions of our literature, the fact is that English authors are more extensively known in America than in our own country. The light reading of the day, the leading periodicals, novels, and productions of this class, have a prodigious circulation. But standard works by our best writers, whether in history, philosophy, theology, or the sciences and arts, are in universal circulation. This importation of knowledge is, no doubt, a preseni advantage ; but it sadly militates against creative talent in the States. It is, indeed, considering their youth as a nation, and the hard and material work they have to do, a matter of astonish- PART I. CnAPTER III. more ntry. |icals, ious iters, jnces )n of idly is, Ihard lisli- ] "s i nieiit tlmt the competition is so successful, and that America has furnished so many able writers. I was extremely sorry to perceive that the Americans exceed us as a novel-reading people. At every public place, the termini of the rail-road, landing-places of the steamboat, and often on board as well, numbers of lads are found vending this trash. The people in general, the ladies esp«'cially, are continually seen amusing or exciting themselves by revelling in this world of fancy, often extremely vulgar and foolish. To give an instance : On one of my journeys by railroad, then; sat before me a family, consisting of a husband, wife, and child, perhaps two years old. This mother and wife, a very genteel and lady-like person, got hold of one of these novels, and scarcely lifted her eyes from her book the whole of the distance they travelled, which occupied the greater part of the day. The husband, in the mean time, had the entire care of the little boy. It cried, and he patted it into good humour ; it slept on his lap, and he fanned it ; it required food, he ransacked the reticule to find cakes and sweetmeats, and, in fact, was a perfect nurse. All this time the mother was completely absorbed in her tale, and took not the least notice of either husband or boy ; and, in fact, seemed unconscious that they were present, or that she had any duties to perform towards one or the other. This pernicious habit is eating into the American mind, and will produce sad and deleterious effects on a great scale. "We went next to the Methodist Book-Concern, a large and well-conducted establishment. The premises are very extensive, being designed to facilitate both the printing and publishing departments. This institution is the cen- tre of Methodist literature in the United States. As in this country, this literature is of a somewhat distinctive character ; the Methodist press being chiefly, though not exclusively, engaged in the publication of works ema- nating from the body, and designed for its use. The Christian Advocate and Journal, and the Methodist Quarterly Review, constitute the periodical literature of this establishment. But though the former of these works makes its appearance in the newspaper form, it partakes much more of the character of a magazine than a news- Saper ; the latter is what its name designates, and it is con- ucted with considerable ability. The standard theology of the Methodist church being the same as our own, it 24 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. follows, that the works of Mr. Wesley, and the most distinguished of our English writers, constitute the staple of their trade. Vast piles of these books are seen in their warehouses, prepared for circulation through the country ; and it is pleasing to know that the instruction, comfort, and encouragement which these writings are so well calculated to afford will alike find their way into the log- hut of the backwoodsman, to the Negro in his bondage, to the Indian in his expatriation, and to the abodes of the more wealthy citizen. But though the fathers of the Methodist body on this side of the water are in general circulation, yet the Ame- ricans are not destitute of sterling and valuable writings of their own. Theology, sacred criticism, specimens of pulpit eloquence, biography, narrative, abound amongst them. But, as in the case of the community at large, the Methodist body is too busy ; is too extensively engaged in the vocation of the evangelist pioneer ; has too much rough work to accomplish in clearing away rubbish and la3dng the foundations of their church ; is obliged to carry on operations on too extended a scale, and in the midst of populations demanding incessant pastoral and miiiis- terial care ; to make it possible to devote themselves, in any numbers, and to any extent, to recondite studies. The Methodist press, notwithstanding these disadvantages, is effecting good service for religion, and the progress of general knowledge. As their colleges become more effi- cient, as residence and leisure are accorded to the pro- fessors, as facilities for study and learning are furnished, no doabt the religious literature of the church will become progressively much more rich and elevated. But at present this Book-Concern must be chiefly con- sidered as a centre of religious light and influence, in aid of the living ministry. In this view of the subject it will be seen as possessing immense value and importance. Its immediate and great purpose is now to promote the work of God, to incite io pious and zealous activity, to confer instruction on the privileges and duties of the reli- gious life, and to point out the way to heaven. It deals but little in speculation. The condition of the church will not allow of this. It is not sufficiently advanced to find lei- sure for either the higher or the more polished subjects of religious literature. The philosophy, the poetry, the refined abstractions of theology, must, in every case, rest on the foundations of general knowledge. To lay these founda- 1 PART I. CHAPTER III. 25 aid [will Ince. the reli- leal's IwiU llei- of led Ithe Ida- li tions is, at present, the business of the Methodist church. In this department they are making admirable progress ; and, this being the vocation of the institution, its utmost energy is devoted to this object. Its radiations of light reach through thousands of miles, to the remotest extremi- ties of the Union ; its voice of exhortation, of admonition, of reproof, of warning, is heard in the wilderress, the village, the city, of every part of the continent ; its life, like electrical fire, is fusing itself into the masses of the population ; and its lessons of divine truth are, as we trust, laying the basis of a pure, holy, practical Christi- anity, as extensively as the habitations of this numerous people. In connexion with these premises is the Committee- Room, for the management of Missionary affairs ; a plain and humble place, with an elevated seat for the chairman, and wooden benches for the members. Suspended upon the walls of this room were the portraits of the Bish''ps of the church, living and dead, — plain, but intelligent and sedate, men ; Bishop Asbury standing out from the rest by his robust character and fine features. On the premises was a vile picture of Dr. Newton. I remember, at the time of the Doctor s visit to the States, reading a news- paper description of his person and preaching, in which the moral painter said, amongst other things, " with a little of the d — 1 in his eye." The author of this sketch might have been the real painter of our beloved country- man ; for he has most certainly put a sufficient quantity of the evil one in his eye. This is unreal ; there is no demon there ; nature, or grace, has done just the revt-se, and given to that eye, with its intelligence and genivi, the bold, direct, simple expression of truth and honesty. We visited the Exchange and Custom-House ; splendid buildings, finely laid out for business, and constructed of massive blocks of granite. To obtain a new view of the city and harbour, we mounted to the top of one of these edifices, and were well repaid for the trouble. The city was seen to a great extent, with its churches, public buildings, and busy streets; and the harbour, the sea, Long Island, and the adjacem' country, appeared in all their beauty and glory. Mr. Harper, who was known to the heads of these establishments, introduced me as an Englishman just arrived. They were very solicitous for news, and desirous to elicit my opinions respecting our state, and the proba- c _!k^ 26 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. ll I f ))ilities of a revolution. W e had sailed from Liverpool on the Saturday previously to the great Chartist meeting held on Kennington Common on the following Monday ; so that our packet carried out the announcement of the intended demouHtration, without its solution. This produced great excitement and apprehension as to the result. These gentlemen pressed me as to the rctal facts of the case, and the prohabilities of revolutionary success. This they did, not in a spirit of glorying, or desire of conquest on the side of the Chartists, but, on the contrary, of a real S}Tn- pathy with our country, and of anxiety for the preserva- tion of the public peace ; but they evident'y entertained strong apprehensions. I endeavoured to dissipate these alarms, and told them I was certain we should have no revolution ; that the Chartists had no hold in the country, they were mere chaff, a bubble on the surface of the waters, and that the Government Avould gain a very easy victory. " Well," said they, " the Queen is gone to the Isle of Wight ; the ministers must have some reason for dread, or they would not have advised her removal to that place." It was replied, that she was partial to that resi- dence, and her circumstances made it necessary for her to seek the quiet and bracing air of that retreat ; that there was nothing at all in that fact. " Well, but then there is Ireland," it was said ; " the Irish are threatening a rebel- lion ; and will not they and the Chartists coalesce, and bring about a revolution ?" The ansv/er was, If any other parties had employed the language which the Irish agitators had made use of, there Avould be reason to fear ; but the bombastic bellowing of these people, which had been heard so loud and so long, would come to very little ; and, moreover, it was questionable whether they would really make any movement at all, inasmuch as the assassin never made his purpose knowTi ; and it was very unlikely that these men would proclaim their rebellious purposes, in case they really intended to revolt. In the course of these conversations the Chartists were called " the people." It was repliec*, ihat they were not " the people ; " that the real people of England were a very different class ; were well satisfied with their institutions, and would certainly defend them, and have the ability to do so successfully. From these interviews and conversations I felt con- vinced, that the class of mou with whon I thus asur 'Iv held intercourse had no sympathy with the malcontents of I * other Irish fear ; ih had very they IS the very fllious the :'alled I "the very tions, fty to con- lur'ly 113 of PART I. CHAPTER III. 27 either England or Ireland ; and that it was their anxious desire that we might escape the dangers which threatened us. Whether my notion he true or not, or to what extent, I know not; hut I certainly fancied, at the time of these conversations, Cfor in substance they were con- stantly occurring,) that some of the parties seemed some- what relieved of their fears and anxieties. Bo this as it may, it Avas a pleasure to deal fairly hy one's country ; and a greater pleasure still, to find that the true, the genuine, the home-born Americans were not so inimical as to desire her overthrow. At dinner with a party of ministers, and other friends, the conversation turned on our institutions, compared with the American ; and some reflections being in pleasantry made on our queenly office nnd the aristocracy, this called ur Mrs. Harper, jun., our countrywoman, who most hero'oally defended the queen and nobility, naturalized, as I suppose she was, as an American. Her kind-hearted father-in-law, I perceived, delighted to put her on the defensive, which always called forth a fine burst of English feeling. How long does it take to extinguish the love of home, of country ? In fine natures, this can never be effected ; it is an undying, an immortal passion. The next day our good friend Mr. Francis Hall, and other friends, took me to see the charitable institutions belonging to the city. We visited an hospital, presided over by Dr. Reece, a Metl>odist physician ; a man of rem. ikoNje energy, and of greai celebrity in his profession. Vfr Lrif'M (nade our way to an establishment, a Refuge, hui: l':\il^i. and half school, for the reformation of young deluii^u $ of both sexes. This institution we found also under th^ .lanagement of Methodists. The matron, a strong-minded and sensible woman, took as to view the female department ; and from her, as well as from the master on the other side, we were informed that their success was very considerable, that many of the boys and girls, through the influence of this institution, turned out good and virtuous citizens. The Dumb and Deaf Asylum h: . been so often described by such WTitcrs as IJasil IloJ/, Charles Dickens, and others, that it cannot be necr^f^ar^ to enter into details. The inmates, however, are the most interesting class of human beings which can well be met with. Nature seems, in some measure, to have compensated the loss of one sense, by giving peculiar delicacy and vividness to others. As every thing is done c 2 28 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. by the eye, this organ seemed to possess extraordinary flexibility and power. The whole soul appeared to throw herself into this bright and beaming orb. Such expression I never saw. Let us mention one incident. I desired the principal to convey to them, by the usual means, our sincere thanks for their kindness in allowing us to put them to the trouble of going through their various exer- cises for our gratification. The expression on their coun- tenances, and in their gestures, but especially in the eye, when this was conveyed to them, was indescribable. At how small a cost is it often in our power to excite emo- tions of pleasure ! "Who woald not do this in the case of those who are si 1 out, by che inscrutable providence of God, from so many es of enjoyment ? But that which mc; nterested me, in this day's excur- sion, was the African Asylum for the orphan children of people of colour. Here, again, we found Methodists engaged in the entire management of the institution. The master, mistress, and teachers were all of our own persuasion. The design of the establishment is to pro- vide a maintenance and education for the orphan children of the poor afflicted African race. The name, the wrongs, the colour of these children, I must confess, awakened all my sympathies. The building is spacious, and wears ^he appearance of perfect order and cleanliness ; and the domestic portion of the business is evidently well con- ducted, the children h.iving the look of health and happi- ness. We were taken into the school-room to see the little orphans ; and what a sight ! They were of all imaginable colours, and nearly of all sizes ; some almost infants, and others nearly grown up. What seemed most astonishing to the ignorant in such matters, was the fact that some of them were, to our unpractised eye, perfectly white ; not exactly the white of the European, but pale, delicate, and very beautiful. The countenance had alto- gether lost the Negro cast, — thick lips, prominent cheek- bones, woolly hair, and all the other characteristics ; and, in their place, the aquiline nose, black, straight hair, in most cases a beautiful mouth, gave them a Circassian cast, without the florid complexion and vivacity of the race. Why these fine and beautiful specimens of human nature are treated as Africans in the United States, and on this flimsy plea cast out of society, who can tell? Others of these children, however, had retained the per- fect African physiognomy, and were as black as jet. '! . PART I. CHAPTER 111. 29 11? er- et. Indeed, this interesting group varied from white, through every shade of colour, to perfect ebony. There sat one little creature at her desk, scarcely high enough to reach its edge, perfectly black, and an inimitable picture of docility and happiness. The image of this child can never be forgotten ! Poor African, it had no consciousness of misfortune or trouble, of degradation and injury ! To know that that innocent little creature must grow up in the midst of a system of proscription, and be punished as long as life shall remain, for no other imaginable crime than the colour of its skin, is painful to think of, but abso- lutely certain. These forlorn children were put through their school- exercises, and evinced no deficiency of intellect, but, on the other hand, great acuteness and aptitude to learn. They sang us some of their sweet and pathetic ditties, having relation to their circumstances ; which, with the thought of their fate, went to the bottom of one's soul, and stirred every emotion. Being presented with some little gratuity to procure them sweetmeats, their hap- piness seemed complete ; and we took our leave in the niidst of their child-like farewells ; but on our own part with something more than even powerful emotions. On our return we called to see the Croton water-works, connected with a remarkable aqueduct of that name, thirty-three miles in length, thrown over gullies, rivers, valleys, ravines, and all sorts of impediments, to the point which we visited; from whence it pours its life-giving streams by innumerable pipes through the entire city. The city of New- York, the commercial metropolis of America, bears all the marks of increasing wealth, and of a great destiny. Its mercantile establishments, its banks, its shops, its hotels, are on the most magnificent scale. Wall-street, Broadway, and other streets, are equal to any thing which can be imagined, as thoroughfares and places of business. The public buildings, except those which are connected with trade, are not first-rate. Ro- manism never established itself in this place ; and Roman- ism alone, of all religious systems, has left great ecclesi- astical monuments behind it : where it has not prevailed, we look in vain for any splendid specimens of antiquarian grandeur. Here are pretty churches ; as Trinity, a very beautiful specimen of architecture ; but it is like an infant in a costly dress, compared with the old remains of Europe. Aristocracy, another element of greatness, iin 1 Im 30 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. which has left hehind noble remains of feudal grandeur, never obtained here ; and is now more out of vogue than ever. We have no venerable castles, manor-houses, man- sions, from this quarter. Riches will produce their accus- tomed results at a future day ; but not yet. At present the laAvs of property dissipate large fortunes, by dividing them equally amongst children ; and, even the demi-aristo- cracy, such as it was at the period of the Revoluticm, is now very much brought down to the American level. It seemed strange, in such a city, to see no gentlemen's car- riages with footmen in livery. They may, for aught I know, exist to some extent ; but, as far as I recollect, I never saw one. This may be considered a good or an evil, according to the taste and notions of men ; but to people who witness these pageants so constantly, and in such numbers in this country, the contrast is striking. The streets of New- York are very spacious ; and what adds much to their beauty and comfort, is found in their being planted with fine chestnuts and poplars, which throw their agreeable shade over the foot-passengers. I had no opportunity of attending any religious service, so that I cannot speak on such questions as pulpit elo- quence, the manner of conducting worship, the numbers and spirit of the auditors, and the fervour or decorum observable in these assemblies. But the people and ministers whom I had, the pleasure of meeting, appeared to me to be very intelligent, thoughtful, and eminent Christians. Our people, indeed, were going to regard the day I left as a day of fasting and prayer, for God's bless- ing on the Conference ; — a most laudable arrangement. They urged me to stay to preach, which I desired to do ; but had I done so, I must have sacrificed Washington ; and this could not be thought of. Hence, after spending two of the most interesting days of my existence, I pre- pared to start for Baltimore on the Friday morning. Our party consisted of the Rev. James Porter, a presid- ing elder in one of the New-England Conferences, and author of a good and heart-stirring little volume, called " The true Evangelist," — and David Cramer, Esq., a mer- chant living at Baltimore, with others. This gentleman left an employment dear to his heart, at New- York, for the purpose of accompanying me to his native city. He had been employed for several years in studying the hymns and poetry of the Wesleys; and was, at the time, employed in bringing out a work, partly historical I PART I. CHAPTER III. 31 ftnd partly critical, through the press, on this interesting subject. He had spared neither trouble nor expense in the pursuit of his object, employing all sorts of agents in Europe to collect every edition in existence of Charles AVesley's poetic effusions ; and, besides, had personally Tisited Europe, and catered for himself by a diligent can- vass of the gentlemen of the " Row," and all other places in the metropolis. I am not able to give an opinion of this work, as it was not published at the time I left ; but from a portion of " copy " 8ho^^^l me on our route, I judged it would prove an acceptable and useful addition to the literature of the American Methodist church. It had been submitted to the inspection of a Committee of the Baltimore Conference, who reported favourably, and the Conference recommended the work to the public. This gentleman, like all fine enthusiasts, seemed to live in Wesleyan poetry. It was his ideal of every thing beautiful and glorious ; his mind was fascinated and absorbed in his theme ; he discoursed not of politics, or merchandise, or material things, but of Charles Wesley, of sacred songs, of metres, sublimities, and devotional praise to God. It was really refreshing to see a young man, a merchant, in active life, enabled to turn his thoughts so completely from " buying and selling and getting gain," as to devote his time and energies to a subject so delicate and sacred. But these Americans are an amazingly energetic race ; and, besides, every body has scope, room, encouragement. To develope every thing having life, soul, intellect, seems to be the American principle, whether found in poetry or prose. The public, and the churches as well, glory in any man, no matter whether lay or cleric, belonging either to the category of talent or piety. Their rule evi- dently is, to give every body a chance, to foster, to prompt, to lead on, and make the best of every one's faculties and power. Talent is sure to meet with a market ; it is admired, applauded, honoured, and, when connected a\ ith piety and goodness of character, cannot fail to elevate its subject to an honourable position in the church. Our route lay through a portion of New- Jersey, embrac- ing Jersey city, Newark, New-Brunswick, Princeton, Tren- ton, — famous in the history of the American war, as the scene of one of Washington's victories, and the capital of New-Jersey. Here we crossed the Delaware into Pennsyl- vania, and travelled by its western bank to Bristol, and thence to Taconey. This to^vn is six miles above Phila- 32 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. delphia, where we embarked on board a steamer, and reached the city hy water. The scenery was most magnifi- cent ; made so by the breadth and sweep of the river ; the banks being rich, fertile, varied, and well cultivated; and, moreover, studded with excellent houses, and beauti- ful mansions and villas. There stood the Quaker city, peering towards skies as bright as those of Italy, rest- ing on the bosom of a country as fertile as imagina- tion can conceive ; touching one of the finest rivers and bays in the world ; receiving and giving a rich and va- ried commerce ; and presenting to view the general aspect of industiy, virtue, peace, and happiness. It seems im- possible that William Penn, the great Quaker, could have selected a finer site for his city. If any thing can be perfect in this world, one would say Philadelphia pre- sents a perfect ground-plan and locale for the abode of man. This is considered by the Americans themselves as their most beautiful city. Taken as a whole, it may be so. The assemblage of favourable circumstances seems com- plete. Earth and sky, land and water, all combine to produce this effect. Nature has certainly selected this spot as for the purpose of shovring, in the beauties of even a ruined world, some faint outline, some faded image, of what Paradise must have been. But yet I did not like Philadelphia as a city. It is too uniform ; a beautiful landscape cannot be imagined without variety. Is not this principle of variety equally necessary in every thing else having extent, space, mag- nitude ? A city is not like a cottage, a lodge, a little box. There may be uniformity, and yet taste may not be offended ; but place these neat boxes in a row, in a straight line, of, say a mile or two long, without any thing to relieve the eye, and then it wdll be found that the straight line without a curve, the imiformity of buildings, unbroken by any variation in height and elevation, streets crossing each other at right angles, and at equally-mea- sured distances, produce impressions which are not in agreement with our notions of the beautiful. Tlie houses, indeed, are not exactly uniform ; but the streets are per- fectly so, securing ventilation and a good circulation of air, but giving the notion of a town in livery, dressed in the prim costume of the people who founded the city. The Quaker mind has left its impress on the material form of their city ; though it is to be feared the Quaker spirit has long since evaporated. I saw very few p sons ! air, in ity. rial ker ons PART 1. CHAPTER IV. 33 i ^1 in the garb of Friends ; though some few were observed passing along in grave and sober dignity. The population is now perfectly miscellaneous, as much so as any other ?lace, and its peculiarities are only seen in the town itself, 'he following statistics will show this : — " Of churches there are Episcopalian, English, 27 ; Methodist, (Episco- pal,) 22 ; Methodist, (Protestant,) 6 ; Presbyterian, New School, 13 ; Old School, 12 ; Reformed Presbyterian, 4 ; Associate, 4 ; Associate Reformed, 2 ; Roman Catholic, 12; Friends, 7 ; German Reformed, 3 ; Independent, 2 ; Lutheran, German, 3 ; English, 2 ; Universalist, 2 ; Dutch Reformed, 2 ; Mariners, 2 ; Unitarian, 1 ; New Jerusa- lem, 1 ; Moravian, 1 ; Disciples of Christ, 1 ; Jewish synagogues, 3 ; churches of different denominations for coloured people, 12." Thus the Friends, in their own home, have been far outstripped by other religious deno- minations. Time would not allow us to remain long. I had only an opportunity of running into one or two public build- ings ; of passing do>vn a few streets, so as to obtain a general idea of the place ; of getting a hasty dinner, and then starting off towards Baltimore. I promised myself the pleasure of a second visit, which could not be accom- plished ; so that my adieu to Philadelphia proved to be final. "We travelled partly by railroad and partly by steam, which, by reason of the diversity both as to mode and scenery, is very pleasant. In this excursion we crossed or sailed upon the Delaware, Elk river, the Patapsco, and Chesapeake-Bay. The latter, on the portion we traversed, had widened into a sea, and had a most magnificent appearance. Chap. IV. — Baltimore and Washington — The City and Capitol — The Senate — General Cass — Captain Fremont — Mr. Calhoun, Ofc. — The House of Representatives — Debate — Visit to the Presi- dent — To the Vice-President — The National Institution — Balti- more — The Sabbath — The aristocratic Air of the Place — Leave for Cumberland — Slavery — Harper^ s-Ferry — Cumberland — The Alleghany Mountains — A Mirage on the Mountain — Brownville — The Mononyahela — Scenery of the Banks. We reached the city after dark, having travelled one himdred and eighty-four miles. We were met by the Rev. Thomas H. Sargeant, who conducted me at once to my appointed place of abode, the residence of a widow c 5 5' 34 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. liidy of the name of "Wilkins, with three or four daugh- ters, and a great number of bhick servants. This hidy, I found, had entertained tlie Kev. Ricliard Reece, Dr. Hannah, Dr. Newton ; and, in fact, all our brethren who had visited the States as a deputation from England. She (evidently retained a very pleasant recollection of these visits. Iler eulogies of the venerable and Rev. Rich.ard Recce were perfectly enthusiastic. His fine person, ur- banity, piety, and labours, had left a deep impression on her mind. Nor had the excellent qualities of the other brethren been less cherished. Indeed, they were recol- lected with great admiration by all. The eloquent labours of Dr. Newton will not lose their impression at Baltimore, nor indeed at any other place he visited, durinjr the existence of the present generation. They are engrave n indelibly on the hearts of many hundreds and thousands of grateful and admiring people. Dr. Hannah was a young man at the time of his visit ; but many of the preachers espe- cially speak of his sermons as amongst the best and most finished specimens of pulpit eloquence they ever heard. I found, indeed, that the ministrations of all my predecessors had left a most happy fragrance behind. Their memory is cherished, their services affectionately appreciated, their mission honoured, the bonds of brotherhood strengthened, and the character of England, as well as English Method- ism, is judged of by these specimens of the manners and spirit of the fatherland. It became evident to me, that the religious public, our own people at least, are not dis- posed to take their cue of England from newspapers, political sources, or the disputes of diplomacy; but from the men of their own community who may be sent over, and from the general body of Methodists. I had known Mr. Sargeant in both England and Ire- land, on his visit to this country, as the companion of Bishop Soule. His fine spirit had lost none of its elas- ticity, or depth of affection. His recollections of our country, of the men he had met with, of the Confer- ence, of any, the least, attention which had been shown him, and the pleasures which fell in his way, all lived, most vividly, in his warm and ardent mind. It is delight- ful to meet with such specimens of Christianized human nature. I blush to think of the affection and kindness he manifested to me. It embraced every thing. It seemed to be the entire business of his life, for the time being, to make my visit as agreeable, as instructive, as profitable, as PART I. CHAPTER IV, ari ur- as possible. Tlie charm such a spirit throws over every thiii^ enhances its loveliness ten-fold. It puts life, vivacity, delight, and joy, as well as piety, into the most ordinary transactions; and seems to add grace and beauty to evory subject of conversation, to every object seen. It is a kind of music in the midst of the solitudes of nature ; a joyous fiagrance intermingled with her productions ; sunshine thrown upon all things on earth. To meet with, such a man, is worth crossing the Atlantic ; and to have made his friendship, gives a new zest to life, and increases one's hope of augmented happiness in immortality. This dear friend soon fell in with my desires to see Washington the next day, and made instant arrangements to accompany me there. My travelling companions, the Rev. J. Porter, and Mr. Cranen, agreed also to be of the party ; and we set out by the first train for the capital. The distance is forty miles, which we soon reached. We had six or eight hours to remain, feeling obliged to return the next day, which was Sunday, when I had engaged to preach in Baltimore. " What can be done in seeing the metropolis of a great republic in six or eight hours?" some one will say. Let us see. But before we proceed, it may be as well to remark, that this capital is very unlike London, or any metro- politan city of any of the nations of Europe, indeed, of many of the older cities of the New World itself. It is a great unfinished village, laid out on a magnificent scale, but remaining for completion. The points of attrac- tion are, consequently, few, and easily reached. The folloAving account of Washington is, in the main, so accurate, that we cannot do better than insert it : — " The city is laid out on a plan of great magnitude, jmd will, if the design of the founders be carried out, and their anticipations realized, be a magnificent memorial of th. great man from whom it is named, tmd a city, the gigam^v proportions of which shall harmonize with the poAver and extent of the mighty republic of which it is the capital. The ground on which the city is built has an elevation, for the most part, of about forty feet above the level of the river. The streets cross each other at right angles, those running north and south being intersected by otliers run- ning east and west. The different parts of the city are connected by broad avenues. When the intersection of these avenues with each other and with the streets would form many acute angles, rectangular or circular spaces ar^ 3(J PERSONAL NARRATIVE. I ! ,! left. The avenues and principal streets radiate from ini- ])ortant public points, and are from one hundred and thirty to one hundred and sixty f«;et wide. The former are named after the states of the Union ; the latter, begin- ning at the capitol, are ranged in the order of the letters of the alphabet ; as A North and A South, B North and B South, & J. ; and east and west, they are designated by numbers, as 1st East, 1st West, &c. Pennsylvania avenue, from the capitol to the President's house, is the most compactly built, and much the handsomest, thorough- fare in the city. Of the avenues, five radiate from the capitol, and five others from the mansion of the President ; thus affording these prominent places the readiest commu- nication with all parts of the city. " Of the public buildings of Washington, the capitol, situated near the centre of the city-plot, on Capitol Hill, is the most splendid. This edifice, in its ample propor- tions, in the style and execution of its architecture, and in its embellishments, both exterior and interior, is believed not to be inferior to any Senate-House in the world. Elevated seventy-two feet above tide- water, it affords a commanding view of the city and the surrounding country. From its immense size, and its elevated position, it is the first object that fixes our attention on approaching the city. The building, which is of freestone, occupies an area of more than an acre and a half. Including the wings, the front is three hundred and fifty-two feet in length, and the depth of the wings is one hundred and twenty-one feet. The projection on the east or main front, including the steps, is eighty-five feet wide ; and that on the west, with the steps, is eighty-three feet. The projection on the east front is ornamented with a splendid portico of twenty -two lofty Corinthian columns; and a portico of ten columns in the same style, adorns the west projection. In grandeur of design, and beauty of execution, the portico in the eastern front has no superior. To the top of the dome, the height of the building is one hundred and twenty feet ; the rotunda in the middle of the building, under the dome, is ninety-five feet in diameter, and the same in height. From the cupola which crowns this apartment, there is a fine view of the city and surrounding country. The walls of the rotunda are adorned with magnificent paintings by Trumbull, the figures being as large as life. These fine national pictures represent inter- esting incidents in American history, — the Presentation to \ the this ding with g as \ PART I. CHAPTER IV. 37 Congress of the Declaration of Independence ; the sur- render of Burgayne ; surrender of Coniwallis ; and Wash- ington resigning his Commission. Congress has recently farther enriched the rotunda by the addition of two fine paintings, — the Baptism of Pocahontas, by Chapman, and the Embarcation of the Pilgrims, by Weir. This room is also adorned with sculptures, in alto relievo^ representing the rescue of Smith by the interposition of Pocahontas; the landing of the IMlgrims ; Daniel Boone's conflict with Indians ; and Penn treating with the Indians at Coaquenac. To other attractions of the rotunda has lately been added, Greenough's splendid statue of Washington, a colossal figure, in a sitting posture, twice as large as life. The library-room of the west of the rotunda is ninety-two feet by thirty-four, and thirty-six feet high, and contains up- wards of twenty-eight thousand volumes. Tliere is here also a valuable collection of historical medals, designed by Denon, the Egyptian traveller; and pair ings, statuary, raedalUons, &c., are distributed about the room. The Senate-Chamber, in the northern wing, is seventy-eight feet long, and forty-five high, and of a semicircular form. The Vice-President's chair has a canopy of rich crimson dra- pery, held by the talons of an eagle. In front of the Vice- President's chair is a light bronze gallery, chiefly appro- priated to ladies. Above and behind the chair is a gallery, supported by fine Ionic columns of variegated marble, from the Potomac. The walls richly ornamented mth stucco, the magnificent chandelier, the gorgeous lamps and furniture, &c,, give the room an imposing appearance. Adjoining the Senate-Chamber, is the office of the Secre- tary of the Senate. Under this room is the apartment in which the Supreme Court holds its sittings. It is nearly as large as the Senate -Chamber, but is much less elegant. The hall of the House of Representatives, in the south wing, is semicircular, like the Senate-Chamber, but larger, being ninety-six feet long, and sixty feet high. The dome of the hall is supported by twenty-four beautiful columns of the Potomac marble, with capitals of Italian marble, of the Corinthian order. The seats are so arranged that the members face the Speaker, whose chair is considerably elevated above the floor, and approached by avenues that radiate from the chair as a centre. A gallery for men surrounds the circular wall opposite the Speaker ; and that appropriated to ladies is in the chord of the arc at the back of the Speaker's chair. The room is ornamented. 38 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. like the Senate-Chamber, with fine statuary and paintings, and its whole appearance is imposing and elegant." Such is the capitol. Some persons look upon objects of art as connoisseurs, having some knowledge of its produc- tions ; otliers judge of every thing merely by such sense and feeling as nature alone supplies. There are advantages and disadvantages in both cases. The connoisseur will be able to detect flaws, blemishes, and beauties, which the other will not be able to see ; but the latter will be capable of a tme impression, as a v/hole, which the critical taste of the former may prevent. Without any pretensions to be a connoisseur, we may be allowed to refer to such impres- sions as these various objects made at the time. Some of the pictures were found to be very impressive, from the grandeur of the ideal. I was struck with what seemed to me to be a very delicate design in the picture representing the surrender of Comwallis. Washington is placed in the back -ground, on horseback, at a considerable distance, looking on with intense interest, whilst an infe- rior officer approaches the British commander, for the purpose of receiving his sword. But, when near, instead of demanding the sword, ho is seen stretching out his hand, and oftering it in friendship and peace to the van- quished General : the effect is irresistible. ComAvallis is subdued ; serenity and benignity beam in his countenance, a li the two enemies meet as brothers. The surrender of his sword, by General Burgoyne, is perfectly different. The American officer is seen approaching in an imperious and commanding attitude ; and Burgoyne is represented ns giving up his sword under the influence of tumultuous passions, resentment, pride, and contempt, though con- quered. Such is the fate of war ! Here are two high- minded soldiers ; the pride and glory of th«^ British army and nation, surrendering themselves and their glories to men, no doubt, whom, when they took the field, they CDnsiderci a despicable foe; probably, not as soldiers at all. Greit issues turned on these two events, — the inde- peT»dence of America, and the humiliation of England. The pictures of the embarcation and landing of the Pil- grims are exquisitely impressive. In the first, the minister of the church in Holland, the Rev. John Robinson, who could not sail with the first expedition, on account of the duty of taking care of the flock left behind, is seen in the atti- tude of prayer, bare-headed, with outstretched hands, and oyes lifted up to heaven. At a short distance there sits a PART I. CHAPTER IV. 39 con- ligh- army ies to they lYS at linde- Itl. Fil- ter of [ould tyof latti- and lits a venerable figure, the personification of calm, contempla- tive, abstract, and believing piety, — his hand resting on the pages of an open Bible, through whose sacred teaching he appears to be looking into the invisible, the future, the divine, with unruffled composure and hope. A little in the back-ground the form of a matronly female (a real character wlio distinguished herself greatly by her piety and fortitude) is exhibited in the costume of the times, attending, with profound and reverent looks and feel- ings, upon these devotions. Groups of children and young people hang around, with a mixture of awe, sur- prise, \iope, and j^outhful joy, depicted in their counte- nances. I never saw religion materialized so perfectly as in *^^his picture : it cost an effort to get away. All the graces may be said to have their type in this canvass. Wisdom, devotion, faith, meekness, love, courage, hope, all beam in those heaven-illumined countenances. They appear as if they had some forethought, some prescience, of their great destiny. Any looker-on would think that they were either dressed in their bridal robes for the " wedding- supper of the Lamb," or that they were under the influ- ence of some extraordinary inspiration, preparing them for great and glorious work. The artist seems most fully to have caught and comprehended the morale of that greatest event in American history. The picture of the Baptism of Pocahontas, an Indian princess, is very striking; and, coupled with her mar- riage to an English gentleman, is an interesting historical fact. She is represented in a knjcling posture, whilst the venerable clergyman is performing the rite. Her figure is beautiful, her face interesting, and the whole effect is exquisitely impressive. Poor Indians ! Had tliis laudable beginning of the admixture of the races i en continued, how different would have been their fate ' Some of the cdto relievos are very fine. One, which represents Daniel Boone's conflict with an Indian, dis- puting, in fact, for the dominion of Ohio, is fearful. The passions of the savage warrior are exhibited to the life, in dreadful rer<>city. The two men are wrestling in personal combat ; and eacli Is employing the weapons of their re- spective modes of attack and defence. The catastrophe is not given; but, of couise, the child of nature, the lord of the forest, was obliged to yield to the white man, — a distressing emblem of an historical fact. The passions, the ferocity, the undying resolution, the tenacious grasp, \ 40 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. !i V the courage of that Indian chief, and his fall, were only representative of the dispositions and of the doom of their race. They struggled, as he struggled, through the long years of their eventful story ; and as he fell beneath the blows of his antagonist, so their nations and tribes fell before the aggressions of a superior foe. Whilst we were examining these works of art, it was announced that the Senate had broken up. This was occasioned by information just brought from the city, that one of their number, a Mr. Ashley, was dying. We hastened to the Senate-House; and to me it seemed a great disaster, as I desired to hear some of the members in this first assembly in the United States. In some respects it was an advantage, however, inasmuch as it gave us an opportunity of entering the body of the hall, and holding personal intercourse with many of the members. Our friend Mr. Slicer,* who seemed perfectly at home with the senators, knew them all, and appeared to be much respected, introduced me to many; telling them who I was, and informing them of the nature of my mission to the States. They all shook me cordially by the hand, welcomed me into their country, and expressed the hope that I should be pleased and gratified. Amongst the gentle- men to whom I was thus introduced, were General Cass, Colonel Benton, General Foote, Colonel Davies, Captain Fremont, Mr. Calhoun, ^-^ \ many others. Of course, I looked with some attenti. n upon General Cass, many of whose violent and belligerent speeches against this coun- try, in connexion with the boundary and Oregon questions, I had read ; and, moreover, who was then understood to be a candidate for the office of President. He is a stout, athletic man, about the middle size, but, for an American, rather corpulent and sanguiferous in his appearance ; and, if his physiognomy did not greatly deceive me, he is a man of strong passions, capable, one would say, of being exalted into the furioso. His keen eye turned upon me, as I imagined, with a somewhat sinister glance; and, after a few remarks of no importance, he seemed glad to get away. Colonel Davies had been wounded in the Mexican war ; was just recovering, but limped very much. This ofiicer had greatly distinguished himself, but seemed, by his modesty, to be unconscious of his own fame. We had considerable conversation with this gentleman about Mexico and the war ; and he showed himself to be a most * One of the chaplains of Congress. ' PART I. CHAPTER IV. 41 amiable and well-informed man. Captain Fremont, who, I believe, is the son-in-law of General Cass, is a first- rate man. He conducted two or three scientific expedi- tions, for the purpose of exploring various portions of Oregon, California, and the Rocky Mountains, and making observations on altitudes, levels, rivers, soils, mountains, &c. His reports of these journeys, now in my possession, are most interesting and able productions. But he showed, in one of these missions, that the man of science can also become the man of war. Believing that a certain course would be favourable to the political interests of his coun- try, he laid aside the sextant for the sword ; and it was very much owing to his exertions that California became American. But we had most conversation with Mr. Calhoun. This distinguished senator is now in the autumn of life, the leaf is yellow. He is tall and thin, with an upright and erect bearing. His face is full of intelligence, of the sharp and acute kind ; he looks as if it would be perfectly natural and easy in him to catch a boor while bungling in his logic, and quite as easy to trip up his heels. With a visage somewhat elongated, pale, after the American fashion, there beams a keen eye, not devoid, however, of benignity, surmounted by a good, square, but very lofty, brow, with snow-white hair, turned back lifter the clerical fashion. We spent considerable time in the body of the hall in conversation with this gentleman. He seemed anxious respecting our country, and European affairs in general ; and urged the usual questions respect- ing the Chartist riots, the state of Ireland, the prospects of a revolution, and all the rest. The customary answers were given. I came from the presence of Mr. Calhoim with the impression that I had seen and conversed with a really great man ; one of the first, if not the very first, I had met with in the United States. I was grieved not to hear him speak. He had just been delivering an interesting speech on a message that morning received from the President on a very important subject. How- ever, as we were not permitted to hear, we were much pleased to see, so distinguished a citizen and statesman. The House of Representatives were in session, and we hastened from this conversation to listen to the debates. The President had that morning sent a message to the two Houses, recommending a military intervention in the affair of the Yucatan civil war, then raging between the m i i 42 PERSONAL NARRATITE. Indians and the people of Spanish descent. This pro- mised to he an interesting topic. We heard some five or six gentlemen deliver their sentiments. Their mode of dehate seemed peculiar. Very little was said on the merits of the question ; almost all the speakers arguing on constitutional points, as to how the matter could he rightly disposed of, how it could he made to agree with this and the other rule of the House, and the provisions of the law. This, of course, prevented all eftusions of eloquence, all fine bursts of feeling, all argument on the real question. A dry detail of opinion on the subjects mooted was nearly all we heard. One gentleman, indeed, Mr. Joseph Ingersoll, was impassioned and eloquent, and indicated that he was in possession of considerable powers of debate. There sat in the chair one of the Winthrops. Honoured name ! Descended from a good stock ; the first, one of the fathers of Ame- rica, and his descendants amongst the most virtuous and patriotic of the citizens. It is delightful to see talent and virtue hereditary ; and the expectation and belief was expressed, that the present worthy Speaker of the House of Representatives would some day be the President of the United States. From thus examining the capitol, conversing with the senators, and listening to the members of the House of Representatives, we hastened to the President's house, to see if we could gain access, and be favoured with an interview with the first magistrate of the republic. On our arrival we met v\dth a black man, the only ser- vant of the President we saw ; and, on asking whether it would be possible to obtain an interview, he said he saw no difficulty in the case, Itut would inquire. He went, with Mr. Slicer's compliments, and soon returned with a message that the President would be very happy to see us. We were ushered, not into a drawing-room, or state-apartment, but into a business office, with desks, tables, pens and ink, bundles of state-papers, and books on business. And there stood to receive us, to shake us by the hand, to bid us welcome, the chief of the greatest republic, if not the greatest state, in the worl I. He accosted us very kindly, and bade us be seated, at the same time resuming his own chair. My embarrassment left me in a moment. T had felt some little trepidation at the idea of being brought into contact vnth. a man so high in station. His demeanour, fir lappy room, desks, )ks on us by eatest He ^t the felt into incur. PART 1. CHAPTER IV. 43 howeyer, soon dissipated this feeling. There was no state etiquette observed, no ceremonies but such as common courtesy demanded, and might be performed by the plainest person ; no court dress, no cocked hat, no sword and sash, no bowing the knee, no kissing of hands, and, moreover, no peer of the realm, or ofl&cer of the court, necessary to gain an introduction : a black boy, to obtain his master's assent, and to show us the way, seemed all that was expected. With our European notions, this did not really look like an intro- duction to tlie head of a mighty nation. Truly this Ame- rican republicanism must either be considered as a great retrogression into the ages of social simplicity, when shep- herds and fanners left their flocks and ploughs to com- mand armies and govern states, and then returned to their avocations ; or else it mT.st be considered as a vast stretch into the future, the anticipation of something to come, the model of a perfectly new order of things. It is most assuredly not identical with what has been, and continues to be, in the Old World. Is this simplicity agreeable to nature, to common sense, to the truth of things ? I con- fess, these questions puzzled me at the time, and continue still to puzzle me. There is a fascination, a charm, about royalty, greatness, courts, presentations, and all the embroidery connected with these things, which make it difficult for one to think that there is no reality in them, that they can be done without. So much of power, of influence, of government, have stood connected Avith the old names, and insignia of thrones and courts, that many of us cannot dispossess our minds of the idea that there is great use, though we may riot know how, in these exter- nal accompaniments of states. Here, then, we were, four Methodist preachers, and one merchant, snugly ensconced in a government office, a sort of counting-house, with President Polk, one of the greatest men, by position, in the world ! Who could for- get some of the documents Avhich had issued from this centre of power, this heart of American diplomacy? Decrees had been framed here which had thrilled through the body politic in every part of the Avorld, producing mighty palpitations of heart, and convulsive throes ! Who could forget some of President Polk's own " messages," directed irom this very desk, and carried probably by the black boy to their destinations ? The policy and messages of this very President have produced strange emotions. W' 44 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. 't ( . They once filled Great Britain, if not with consternation, yet, at any rate, with indignation ; they put the Parlia- ment of England into a ferment, and called forth the impassioned eloquence of men of all parties ; they made it expedient to employ the diplomatic skill of Lord Ashburton, esteemed, at the time, one of the most saga- cious peers of the realm ; they led to treaties but little relish \ and much condemned by some of the best sons of the British empire ; and they resulted in the political exaltation, strength, and aggrandisement of America. Some of these messages, moreover, moved the military forces of the republic, by land and sea, to the invasion of Mexico ; to the victories of Taylor and Scott ; to the spoiling of a feeble people ; and led to the annexa- tion to the States of a territory, but little, if at all, infe- rior to the whole of Europe. These are some of the effects produced by the decrees sent forth from this place, with the signature of this plain little man. Things are not then to be estimated by the appearance. The room is common, but it is the centre of mighty forces ; the President appears destitute of the forms of majesty, but possesses its reality ; the missiles lying about are not artillery, swords, and helmets, but they move, they shake the world. And what of President Polk himself? He is small of stature, and the opposite of corpulent. There is some- what of a cadaverous and American look about him ; but he is grave, thoughtful, meditative, and slow and mea- sured m his speech. A thin face is surmounted by a fine brow, and his features indicate great decision and uncon- querable firmness. President Polk's demeanour is per- fectly simple, his conversation natural and easy, his dress plain, after the American fashion, and his whole contour irresistibly reminds one of the venerable Puritans. In the course of a lengthened conversation, besides the mat- ters relating to the Chartists, the Irish, and other general questions, two or three points of great consideration were introduced. Some one having mentioned the necessity of American intervention in the affairs of Yucatan, in agree- ment with the President's message of the morning, it was added, " If we do not interfere, some one of the European powers will;" referring to England. The President promptly remarked, " But we will not let them ;" and then added, " We do not meddle in European affairs, and we will not allow them to intermeddle in American." ' PART I. CHAPTER IV. 45 aall of some- but raea- a fine incon- per- dress mtour In mat- neral were ty of yree- ; was )pean ident and and ican." Here is a political axiom for Lord John Russell and his successors in office to meditate upon, a difficulty to solve ! James Munroe's principle of " America for the Ameri- cans," has been fully adopted by President Polk. It was, indeed, no mystery before ; it had been proclaimed in many of his state- documents, and was here unequivocally asserted. Well, but Canada, and the British provinces ! These are in America, they constitute a portion of its territory, they are in the possession of an independent power; and this presupposes political rights and duties on the part of Great Britain. Does the fact that these possessions are colonies, and not independent states, deprive the parent state of the right to interfere in gene- ral questions ? This seems to be the notion, the dogma, assumed. Time must solve this point. It was also said by some one respecting the Mexican war, that the Ame- rican armies might as well have finished the work of conquest, and taken the entire country, as they would certainly possess it some day. To this the President replied, " Ah, but the apple is not yet ripe." " Not yet ripe ! " Wl -) does not see the meaning of this ? When it is " ripe," it will fall. The black boy came to announce his master's dinner ; we made our bows, shook hands, and parted. Our indefatigable friend, Mr. Slicer, had not yet satis- fied his own kind intentions ; and took us at once to the Vice-President's room. We gained an easy access. Here we found one of the most handsome men it was ever my pleasure to see. Vice-President Dallas is some- what beyond middle life. He possesses a fine and engaging person ; a countenance perfectly ruddy and blooming, an unusual thing in an American ; dark eyes bright as the morning and evening stars; his brow is good and spacious, with hair white as snow. We re- mained here about half an hour, talking on the usual European and American topics. 'This gentleman had the kindness to present me with a copy of Hickey's " Consti- tution of the United States," writing his namt in the title-page, together with a large bundle of state-papers, prepared by order of Congress on the subject of Mexico and California. From the rooms of the Vice-President we went to visit the Patent-Office. The large upper room is two hundred and seventy-five feet in length, and sixty-five feet wide, which is appropriated to the collections of the National .4' t 46 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. Institution. Here was a most superb collection of plants, minerals, and specimens of the American animal kingdom. The enormous birds, serpents, and animals of South America exhibited in this room, are most remarkable. But the two things which attracted most of my attention were, a collection of bugs, and General Washington's camp-equipage. Being somewhat personally interested in the first, on the ground of old acquaintance' sake, they could not be regarded but with some emotion. The prodigious size of some of these creatures is frightful. They are more like reptiles than any thing else. The idea of having these monstrous vermin in bed, crawling about, and sucking one's blood, is perfectly horrifying. Their " local habitation " is in the hot and sunny south : had they found a home in the north, I should have had ample experience of their nocturnal visits ; — bad enough as it was, but the warfare of the night must have been ten times worse, if these southern gentry could have lived in the regions I visited. The camp-equipage of Washington is entire. His military costume, his tea-kettle, his gridiron, and all the rest of the utensils employed in the camp-life of the General, are sacredly preserved. And here hang the very coat, vest, smallclothes, boots, spurs, sword and belt, of the great patriot ! The identical clothes he wore when commanding the forces of his country, gaining the vic- tories of independence, establishing the nationality of the colonies, and paving the way for a new order of things in the world, are kept as relics, with as much care as a saint's coat in a popish church. Who could look upon these things without deep feeling ? The country is studded with his statues ; but I confess I could not view these effigies of Washington with the same feelings as possessed me when standing before the mute, but in some sort speaking, costume and habiliments of war which he had actually worn. It seemed as if his own spirit were present, though unseen. Is this feeling super- stition ? Does hero-worship originate in this class of sensations ? The Americans next-to-adore, with reason, the founder and father of his country. So pure, so dis- interested, so exalted a patriot never adorned the annals of time. Moreover, he is believed to have been a true Christian. His whole career is said to have been mixed with much prayer. He was knoAvn to have retired to the woods, away from the bustle of the camp, on all emer- I eason, dis- nnals true nixed o the PART I. CHAPTER IV. 47 goncies, to acknowledge and seek direction from God. His great l)attles were always so prefaced ; and the more pressing the emergency and desperate the state of affairs, the more he was ohserved to frequent the solitudes of nature for purposes of devotion. Bishop Asbury says, on occasion of his death, " At all times he acknowledged the providence of Gotl, and never was ashamed of his Redeemer : we believe he died not fearing death. In his will he ordered tlic manumission of his slaves, — a true son of liberty in all points." How different a character is Washington to such charlatans as Bonaparte, and men of his class ! and how equally different the issue of their work ! Had he lived in the times when greatness in men was thought to be divine, and they, in consequence, were deified ; had shrines erected to their honour, and became objects of popular adoration, — had Washington lived in these times, he would have been the god of America. As it is, he is their model-man. If they cultivate his spirit, adhere to his maxims, imitate his moderation, and pre- serve and work out his wise and judicious theories of government, they must prosper. We turned our backs on the city bearing the name of this wonderful man, and which was projected by his genius, with deep feeling. We had collected ample mate- rial for reflection. The things and the men there seen, were not likely to be lost sight of: they could not, they never can, be forgotten. Our good friend the chaplain pressed me very urgently to remain over the sabbath, and take his place hy preaching to the Congress. This I should gladly have done, but had engaged to officiate in Baltimore. We arrived in that city late in the evening, well repaid for our day's excursion. The sabbath came ; as bright and glorious a day as ever dawned on earth. It was the first I had fully spent in America, and brought with it the rest and spiritual ex( r- cises I had long sighed to enjoy. I preached twice, to large and apparently very serious and devout congrega- tions. Here I felt quite at home, amongst our own people, just the same as in England. This was very diflferent to the promiscuous and mixed groups I had to address on board ship. The worship was solemn, spiritual, and holy ; God was, as we trust, present, and the people " shouted aloud for joy." In the course of the day we visited two or three Roman Catholic places of worship, and amongst the rest the cathe- ^h 48 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. 6 1; dral, a splendid building, full of fine paintings. Here I saw, for the first and only time of my life, tlie railroad principle applied to the purposes of worship. There was provided a tram-road to wheel round the pulpit, from some conve- nient nook, which was its common resting-place, to the centre of the building, where the officiating minister might stand and obtain a commanding position for addressing the people. Nothing comes amiss to papists ; they have the adroitness to press every thing into the service of the church. It can be no matter of surprise, if, at some time, they employ steam-power to work their machinery, to ring their bells, to shift and move the scenery of their dra- matic exhibitions ; and to Avork the innumerable springs, pullies, and wires of their scenic worship. And, for aught we can see, the mummeries of the system might as well be worked by steam as by living men : as no soul is required, the element of liquid smoke might serve per- fectly, and save money. Whether from the power of association, or the reality of things, I know not, but I liked Baltimore as much, or more, than any city I saw in America. It is, indeed, a beautiful place. The houses are fine, spacious, and ele- gant. There is, moreover, an air of aristocracy which is seldom to be met with. It is clear enough that aristocrats reside in this place; and although the Americans decry this class of men constantly, yet there is certainly some- thing about a people, and institutions, of the aristocratic cast, which gives the impression of superior dignity. We were now, indeed, in one of the slave-holding states ; and from the specimen given in this and other places visited, it is pretty apparent, that the system of slavery tends to produce this spirit. Indeed, the slave-holder, in despite of the prejudices against the name, exhibits all the charac- teristics of a perfect feudal aristocracy. As I understood, his house is, generally, in the case of the wealthy classes, a complete palace ; princely in its dimensions, its furniture, its ornaments, and its luxuries. How can it be otherwise, with a man who is the lord of a great number, not of vassals, but of slaves ? These poor creatures are the abso- lute property of the master, obedient to his behests, the panderers to his passions and appetites, and in all things the servants of his caprices. The young gentlemen and ladies, brought up in the midst of slavery, learn, as early as they are capable of authority, imperiously to command the service of the menials of their father. They stir not PART I. CIIArXER IV. 40 )t of kbso- the ^ings and karly jiand not without their attendance ; they are waited upon in the most trivial matters ; tliey arc fanned when the weather is hot, and guarded in the most assiduous manner from the approach of the l)uzzing insect ; whilst all their wants are, if possible, more than {mticipated hy the black slaves. What is all this, if not feudal aristocracy, in its most re- volting features ? The lords of the European nations, Avhen the institution existed in its most perfect glory, were never in so transcendental a state of power as these gen- tlemen. Their vassals, though low enough in the scale of humanity, were not so degraded as these Africans. The right of the seigneurs of Europe to exact the services of their serfs, never amounted to the absolute dominion of the slave-holder Prol)ably the rule of the Roman Catholic church, which at first, and for many subsequent years, was paramount in this place, had something to do with this aristocratic character. The first colonists, as is well known, were of the Roman Catholic persuasion ; and hence the cathedral, and other splendid churches, are now amongst the chief ornaments of the city. Sir John Cal- vert, afterwards Lord Baltimore, from whom the city takes its name, was in early life a Protestant ; but afterwards embracing the Romish faitli, became the means of estab- lishing that system of religion extensively in the colony. The present prelate is an American, the first ever ap- pointed to the see ; it having long l)een the policy of the Popes to select foreigners, generally Irishmen. Baltimore is soiuetimes called " the Monumental Cit}^" by reason of the number of statues it contains. " The Washington Monument, at the intersection of Charles and Monument streets, is a noble specimen of architecture, both in design and execution. Built on an eminence one hun- dred feet above tide-water, it rises majestically above the city, at once forming its noble embellishment, and a con- spicuous landmark to travellers and voyagers. The monu- ment consists of a Doric column, rising from a base of fifty feet square, and twenty high. Its height is one hundred and eighty feet, including the statue of Washington, which is sixteen feet. The base is ascended by a flight of twenty-eight steps ; the ascent to the summit is by a wind- ing staircase, or flight of two hundred steps. The cost of the monument, including the statue, was 200,000 dollars." This is, indeed, a noble pillar. The above description, though, no doubt, accurate in detail, gives but an inadequate notion of the majestic appearance of this splendid work of art. 50 PRRSONAL NARRATIVK. \i V,: t > } t Heroes arc not likely to be forgotten in America, any more than elsewhere. Wc have another called liattle Monument, enacted to the memory of those who fell defending the city in Sf'pten>ber, \H\4, at the comer of Calvert and Fayette Streets. ''The scjuare suh-haso on which the pedestal, or column, rests, rises twenty feet from the ground, with an Egyptian door on each front, on which are appropriate inscriptions, in hasxo j'eftevo, of some of the incidents of the battle. The column rises eighteen feet above the base. This, which is of marble, in the form of Roman fasces, is enriched by bands, on which are inscribed, in letters of gold, the names of those whose memory and patriotic valour the monument is designed to commemorate. The column is surmoimted by a female figure, in marble, emblematic of the city of Baltimore. The whole height is fifty-two feet." Such are some of the architectural ornaments of this city. Hut none of them equal the Popish cathedral. This, in point of fact, is the true monument of the place ; and as *'^>r as such things are concerned, its distinction and glory. It reminds one of home, of Europe, more than any thing I saw in the United States ; and tends to give this city a peculiarly European appearance. Such are the types of time. America is pre- eminently, in its whole appearance, the emblem, the type, of modern ideas ; but there is just one memorial of the past, of a defunct age. In the midst of the simple forms of republicanism, the activity of commercial life, the humble and unostentatious churches of Protestantism ; — the cathedral of Baltimore seems to stand as the catacomb, the mausoleum of departed ages ; and as a mighty fragment, a rock, separated by some great convulsion from surround- ing things. Nothing appears in unison ; it stands in solitude, in the midst of a vast population, having no sym- pathy to bestow, and receiving none from the young gene- ration around. On Monday morning, May 1st, we took an affectionate adieu of our dear friend Sargcant, and the Baltimore peo- ple, and set out by the railroad for Cumberland. Our party had now increased. Besides Mr. Porter, we here met with Dr. Pierce, the representative from the South Methodist church to the Pittsburgh Conference, Dr. Bond, the editor of the Christian Advocate in New York, and a gentleman and his son, planters and slave-holders, from the Mississippi State, Methodists and very agree- able persons. The assembling of these parties in the same i;— the lb, the lent, a round- ids in Itionate re peo- Our le here South Dr. York, lolders, lagree- same PART I. CHAPTER IV. 51 vehicle was rather ominous ; no])ody couhl tell to what it might le.'ul, whether the peace would he kept, or the tedium of our journey he relioo 1 by a polemic war. The two doctors were amongst the heads and chiefs of the great controversy, which had been going on for the past four years, and wliich had ended in dividing the church ; the one by his pen, and the otlier by his viva voce elo- quence. They had i)een old friends ; and it was pleasing to see, that tlie undying instincts of Christian love soon gained the ascendant. The knotty questions in dispute were forgotten, or only referred to in general terms; and the North and South, at imy rate, in this journey, met without colHsion. Our route lay along a very interesting country, partly in the State of Maryland, and partly in Virginia. We beheld a great number of slaves at work in the fields ; the first I had seen at theii degrading labours. Tliey exhibited no life, no activity, in tlieir occupation ; but seemed to drag themselves along, as if existence were a weariness ; they plied their implements of industry, careless as to the amount of work done, or studious to do as little as possi- ble. My companion, Mr. Porter, a staunch anti-slavery man, descanted on the deleterious effects of slavery on the soil itself; endeavouring to prove that Marylimd and Vir- ginia were Avom out by this kind of cultivation. Whether it is so or not, I cannot pretend to determine ; but the whole country where these slaves were at work, has an extremely barren appearance. Such is the decree of God, that this enor- mous evil may wear itself out, and the planters be obliged to turn to the cultivation of such productions as may make it profitable to employ free labour. God appears to curse with sterility the land cultivated by slaves. The planters, I was informed, were getting very poor ; and it was, appa- rently, becoming their interest to turn their attention to something else in the place of tobacco and the other pro- ductions on which slave labour is chiefly employed. We passed on, and soon lost sight of the haggard, dispirited, broken-hearted, oppressed slave. Those fields had wit- nessed the labour, the tears, the blood, of their race, for generations ; and, for aught a\ Inch appears, must continue to witness the same miseries in their children, unless Hea- ven shall, in mercy, increase the intensity of his maledic- tion, and render the country completely sterile. But would this be any relief ? No ; these poor vnretches would be sold, and sent further south ; and if even the D 2 KVfVMi V 52 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. f same fate should follow them into the Carolinas and Geor- gia, still there are the Texas, Mexico, and California, to be peopled and cultivated by tliiS uT?fortunate race. The evil seems to be indefinite, eternal. Provision has been made, designedly or otherwise, by the conquests of the States, for the progress of this scourge, for all time to come. Hai'per's Ferry, a curious phenomenon of nature, lay in our line, and as it was our dining-place, and the Ameri- cans not being so exact, as to time, as the railroad autho- rities in this country, I obtained an interval, which, though brief, enabled me to take a look at the scenery, in itself pre-eminently grand. " Harper's Ferry is situated in Jefferson county, Virginia, at the confluence of the Shen- andoah and Potomac rivers, at t!ie passage of these streams through the Blue Ridge, upwards of one thousand two hun- dred feet in height. At this point, the two streams, in search of an outlet to the sea, and each, as it were, conscious of the insufficiency of its separate exertions to overcome the barrier tliat opposes its progress, united their waters, and, rushing in ore impetuous current against the mountain, rent it asuader. Such, it is thought, was the origin of a scene which Mr. Jefferson has characterized as 'one of the most stupendous in nature.' " Thf> scenery is of the wildest and most majestic cha- racter. Jeft'crson's Rock, named after Mr. Jefferson, and the spot where he ^vrote a description of the place, in his ' Notes on Virginia,' is a place of huge detached rocks, leaning over the steep cliffs of the Shenandoah, and looking into the mountain-gorge of the Potomac. Its top, almost level, is twelve feet square ; its base, not exceeding five feet in Avidth, rests upon the top of a large mass of rock jetting out from the hill. It is a wild ' eagle's nest,* which, as Jefferson truly declares, is worth a trip across the ocean to behold. It is not, however, equal to the enchant- ing scene presented to the view from the opposite moun- tain, about a mile and a half up, on the Maryland side. From this the beholder surveys with admiration a large extent of country, fields, woodlands, and plantations; whilst the beautiful Shenandoah, as it breaks upon the magic picture, appep^s like a series of beautiful lakes." Such IS Harper's-Ferry. It is very tantalizing to be within sight of a great object of o"riosity, and not be able to rench it. This was our case. We were at the foot ox tills " rock," it stood towering above us ; and yet our time cha- n, and ce, in ached 1, and s top, eding ass of nest,' ss the bhant- loun- side. large tions ; the to be able )ot ox time PART I. CHAPTER IV. 53 would not allow us to ascend. But so far as the slight glimpses which we could obtain, by running here and there to catch a bird's-eye view, the above appeared u tolerably correct description. And yet, after all, descrip- tive ^vriting must always depend upon the vision, the brain, the nervous system, and the grouping powers of the observer. Had we obtained our desired point of observa- tion, no doubt, the prospect would have varied itself, in some degree, from the account given by other minds. In this journey our line lay, for many miles, along the meanderings of the beautiful Potomac. Nature, as if in bounty to man, had just left room enough for a road be- tween the banks of the river and very lofty and precipitous rocks. This made the route perfectly romantic, and the scenery beautifully picturesque and agreeable. The Ame- ricans have been charged with travelling slowly by their trains. The mystery, however, was, that they could got on at all in the midst of the elbows, curves, and bends of this serpentine course ; and yet, with the difficulties of this zig-zag kind of movement, we reached Cumberland from Baltimore, a distance of one hundred and seventy-eight miles, in about nine hours. Cumberland lies at the foot of the Alleghany mountains, which we had now to cross in "stages" in the night. I had determined to remain here till morning, being desirous of gaining as complete a view as possible of these lofty regions. But I was informed that the proprietors of the *' stages " never insured a passage, unless they could obtain the full complement of nine, this being the number Avhich one of the coaches would accommodate ; and, likewise, that it was perfectly uncertain as to whether there would be any such number to cross the following day. Hence, no choice was left. I Avas unANalling to run the hazard of losing a day, and therefore preferred to mount the " stage," and cross the mighty barrier betwixt the east and the west. " The Alleghany Mountains, otherwise called the Appa- laches, from a tribe of Indians, who lived on the banks of the Appalachikola, (or Alleghany,) a river which proceeds from these mountains, are a part of that extensive range which is situated between the Atlantic, the Mississippi, and the lakes of North America ; and which runs in a direction from south-west to north-east, passing through the country of the United States, and giving origin to many rivers, that flow either into the Gulf of JMexico, or into the Western Ocean. As the Alleghany mountains ■■QP' mmt m Hi If 54 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. form a principal part of the chain just alluded to, they often give their name to the whole group. This range com- mences in Georgia, stretches northwards and eastwards through the territory of Virginia, passes on in the same direction through Pennsylvania and the northern coun- tries, and terminates in the division of New-Brunswick. Its whole extent, according to Pinkerton, is not less than nine hundred geographical miles. As it approaches its termination, the mass rises in height ; the chief summits are in New-Hampshire, and are reported to be nearly eight thousand feet above the level of the ocean. Besides the main ridge, there are several others which are col- lateral to it, as the Iron or Bald Mountains, the White- Oak Mountains, and the Blue Mountains, — the Cumber- land Mountains forming the exterior skirt towards the north-west. Tlie breadth of the whole is often equal to seventy miles." This was about the breadth of the mountain where we passed. Our cavalcade consisted of six or eight stages, all well horsed and manned. On leaving Cumberland we instantly plunged into the midst of rocks and precipices, the road meandering its course amongst gullies and cataracts, and then again by the side of the rising moimtain. The scene was unmixed forest; for thougli the moun- tain, of course, consists of rock, yet, as is the case every where else, it was covered from the bottom to its most elevated summit with noble trees. Having two or three hours before nigh> closed the prospect from our view, I had consequently that space to look upon the scene as we passed along. The impression was a very melancholy one, in exact agreement with the sombre aspect of all things around : — the stillness, the indefinite and mystic character of the forest, as if forming a sort of infinite labyrinth ; the stupendous rocks and precipices ; the moaning of the waters, as they rolled down the gullies, or dashed amongst the stones ; the wilderness itself, which seemed vocal with no note of bird or voice of man ; and then the gradual approach of night, till the curtain dropped. This general gloom, I confess, produced in me the most melancholy sensations. This state of mind, how- ever, is not unfavourable to reflection. The forest taught its moral ! The trees appeared not in uniform life, verdure, and beauty. Great numbers lay prostrate on the ground in total decay, even their form nearly gone ; and mother earth seemed about again to receive to her embrace those PART I. CHAPTER IV. 55 case to its two from on the n me how- ught dure, ound other those .H noble forms of life which had been nursed at her bosom, and had been the ornaments of the forest in other years and centuries. Others had more recently fallen, and retained their perfect shape, though beginning to decompose and lose something of their texture as wood, and change into that of earth. Again, others, and that in greater numbers, had been riven, by time or the storm, from their grasp of the soil, and leaned upon their neighbours, younger and stronger than themselves, for support. The space, however, was filled up ; no room was lost ; the generation now in their prime stood towering over the prostrate and decaying ; and innumerable young ones, of every age and size, filled every atom of soil left betAvixt the living and the dead. Who could help thinking of human nature ? of the gene- rations of the past, of the active spirits now occupying their place, soon to follow them ; of the young plants of humanity, so blooming, so beautiful, so sanguine, so full of hope and joy ; waiting for their turn, and impatient for the removal of the generation standing in the way of their enterprise and ambition ? That forest was to me a lesson. It served to furnish matter for reflection in the darkness ; and as the sun retired, and hung around us the sable cur- tain of night, the moral seemed complete. Our long train of " stages," with their brilliant lamps, reflected by the foliage, presented a singular appearance, and not devoid of interest and beauty. It became very cold as we ascended the mountain, and we were glad to halt for supper. This was served, considering the cha- racter of the place, in very good style ; and, no doubt, we did it justice. After a good warming, we again renewed our journey. The road is designated " national," being prepared at the public expense ; but unpleasantly rough. The shaking and jolting, the up-and-down kind of exercise we had to endure, made sleep in my case quite out of the question. Hearing a remarkable noise as we pro- ceeded, I inquired of my companions what it meant; and was informed that it arose from the merry-making of frogs. The sound was not a croak^ but a chirp^ very much like that of crickets by our fire-sides, only much louder. For many miles the mountain was perfectly vocal with the music of these happy creatures. How good is God ! All things serve him in their season. This concert of frogs broke the tedium of the journey and the gloom of night ; and it 1)ecame my business to listen to this singular melody for several hours. mm i\ . I, Ef"' m M U'i: 56 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. All my companions, being accustomed to this kind c^ travelling, slept soundly ; but I " watched for the morn- ing" with great desire. At length it came. We had reached the summit of the mountain, and were now beginning to descend. The sun rose ; and it was never my fortime to behold such a sunrise. As he ascend- ed the skies, they appeared tinged by the most beau- tiful and variegated colours imaginable. They were clothed in the most gorgeous dress ; the deep blue being relieved and diversified by banks of clouds, their edges being tinged with all the colours of the rainbow. But on looking out on my left hand, I saw something which I took to be a prodigious lake ; and, being surprised at so singular a phenomenon appearing on the top of a mountain, roused one of my fellow-travellers, and asked, "What lake is that on the left ? " He rubbed his eyes, and grum- bled out, " I reckon there is no lake here." He closed them again, and I could obtain no information. I conti- nued to gaze ; and felt certain that the object seen was the waters of a lake or sea, stretching to an indefinite extent, and losing itself ia the distance. After ruminating in this uncertainty for some considerable time, it occurred to me that possibly it might be the mirage, so often referred to by eastern travellers. So it turned out. We were at a great distance from either lake or sea ; but the sun had given the rising mist this peculiar appearance. No wonder that the pilgrims of the desert, in imagi- nation, quenched their burning thirst, and plunged their w^eary limbs, in one of these illusive seas. Attracted by the promise of water, they rushed towards a blessing which retired as they approached, and left them still a prey to thirst and misery. Had it been my lot to command a steamer, or vessel of any kind, I should not have doubted for a moment that the sea I fancied I saw, would fur- nish depth and space enough for her navigation. Such are the illusions of life ! A few moments sufficed to dissi- pate these vapoury deceptions ; it may, perchance, take a longer period to disenchant the soul of the haze around her being, arising from the unreal objects of desire and hope ; but the time is certain to come when the mirage will be dis- sipated, and the mountain scenery of life, rough and rugged, will appear in its true character. But a more gorgeous deception awaited us. Turning my eyes to the other side of the mountain, I beheld ano- ther most magnificent spectacle. This arose from the i| ipi ,f PART I. CHAPTER IV. 57 agency of the same causes ; the mist lying on the side of the mountain, and the beams of the rismg sun shining upon it. But in this instance his rays were not absorbed, but reflected, and the appearance was not that of water, but of fire. How shall a description of this wonderful scene be attempted ? We have no analogies. It was unlike any thing ever beheld by me. Nothing either in the heavens or on the earth can furnish any terms of compari- son or modes of illustration. The point of observation in surveying the beauties of the heavens is from below. We see all their glories over our heads. But in this case we were elevated above the phenomenon ; we did not look up, but do^vn; the magnificent spectacle lay at our feet, — like the mirage on the other side the mountain, — stretch- ing to an indefinite distance. Again, this spectacle had not the appearance of mountains of clouds, heaped one upon another, variegated by tints and hues of many co- lours, their edges dipped in gold, and reflecting every possible form of beauty ; it was uniform, presenting the same aspect and colour ; the intensity of its brightness seemed not to admit of variation, the one element swal- lowed up all inferior forms, and absorbed them in its own indivisible purity and lustre. The arch of heaven, the rainbow, the rising and setting sun, the brilliant noon-day, — none of these can give a notion of this splendid illusion. Its position was longitudinal ; its surface, its bosom, like that of the ocean, seen from a lofty elevation, presented itself to view as at a great distance below ; — reflecting the sun's beams back again to their fountain, and giving their dazzii:ng brightness as if in emulation of the parent orb. To A>')iat shall we compare it ? It looked like a sea of glory ! I gazed and gazed on this lovely object, till dragged by the rumbling motion of our vehicle beyond the sight of the deceptive vision. We were soon lowered to the common level ; and, leaving these regions of splen- dour and magic grandeur, were called to move along the common road, in the midst of clouds and shadows. Notwithstanding all that we had seen on the moun- tain, we were thankiul enough to get to Uniontown, wai-m our almost frozen limbs, and regale ourselves Avith breakfast. Those necessary duties being soon despatched, we hastened to Brownville, where a steamer awaited our arrival to conduct us to Pittsburg. The Monongahela, on which we embarked, descends from the mountain in this direction, and forms a fine D 5 1 l! 1 '! \i • f 5« PERSONAL NARRATIVE. navigation, meandering its course through a picturesque country to its destination. We now found ourselves in the great Valley of the Mississippi; which, com- mencing at this point, stretches to the Rocky Mountains. These two ranges of mountains, in the geography of the continent, are held to he the harriers, on the east and west, of this prodigious tract of country. The immense space lying hetween us at the moment of our emharcation at Brownville, at the foot of the Allcghanies, to the great barriers raised by the Rocky Mountains, and separating the Western States from Oregon, is considered a part of this valley. The Mississippi itself may be taken as the centre line of this great tract of country, stretching from north to south, prepared by nature herself as a drain for the waters descending from the east and west. We were now on one of these streams ; flowing, in the main, from the east, in a westerly course, to join the rivers descending in the opposite direction ; and, as it were, to meet in fraternal union in the arms of the "father of waters." Every thing now appeared different. The climate became genial and balmy, and the soil much richer; vegetation appeared luxuriant ; the trees were giving out their foliage, and the shrubs and plants their colours and fragrance, more richly ; the skies were clear and lofty, the sun warm and cheering, whilst every breeze seemed to bear life and vivacity on its wings. The river was enchanting. From the edge of the waters the banks gradually sloped up so as to form a hilly embankment on each side, covered with various trees, now enriched with variegated hues. The channel of the river appeared to have been scooped out of the solid earth by some giant power, its level being below the adjoining country, so as completely to embosom its waters in overhanging woods. This beautiful, umbrageous, woody, sylvan scene was, it is true, broken in upon, now and then, by human habita- tions, little villages, and places of incipient commerce; but, generally speaking, we passed through silent and unbroken solitudes. Taking a chair, and placing it under the awning of the steamer, I gazed in a sort of intoxi- cation, wonder, and ecstasy, in perfect silence, or, at any rate, unwilling to be disturbed for any purpose. I can never forget the effect this scenery had upon my feelings, in this first sight of its peculiar loveliness. I looked till my eyes grew dim with the dazzling luxuriance of the I . PART 1. CHAPTER V. 59 eyer-varying prospect, and my brain fairly ached with the attempt to form some notion of its imique grandeur. On our descent the banks of the river became more precipitous and rocky ; and, for several miles above Pitts- burg, the causes of its manufacturing greatness and wealth began to appear. For many miles beds of coal projected their crust and edge upon the banks of the river ; and, here and there, the collier had employed his mattock and spade in digging out of the side of the hill this valuable article of manufacture. The trouble and cost of the ope- ration consisted in getting it out of the rock and trans- porting it to its destination. A slide of planks, fixed at the mouth of the level, was placed, from whence the coak were rolled down into a boat below prepared to receive them. This was all the expense and labour attendant upon procuring this valuable article. The same is the case with iron ore. This is as abundant as coal, and is procured and removed in the same manner. How differ- ent is the operation in our country ! It occurred to me, that one of our friends had a pit in this locality, (Birming- ham,) on which he had just expended twelve or fifteen hun- dred pounds, to ascertain whether there was a bed of coal on his property. The Americans are saved this uncertainty and expense altogether. They know before they use a tool that their exertions will not be in vain ; for they see the coal and iron challenging their labour, and inviting them to enterprise. The advantage of the rivalry of the two countries, in this respect, is greatly on the side of the Americans. Chap. V. — Pittsburgh — Lodge at the St. Charles — The Covference — The Bishops — The Preachers — Bishop Sotile — The Southern Ministers — Public Services — The Company at the St. Charles — The Town — Manufactures — The African Church — Preach to the Blacks — Curious Scene — Leave Pittsburgh — Take leave of Bishop Soule — His Character — The Ohio — Wheeling-— Bishop Campbell — Mesmerism. "We made Pittsburgh about five o'clock. On calling with the other ministers at the Book-Concern, I found I was appointed to take up my abode at the St. Charles Hotel. This excellent house was kept by Mr. Miller, who with his mfe was very friendly. We met with several preachers domiciled with us ; all very agreeable and excel- Icnt men. I was at once installed as the entire master of a commodious sleeping-room ; and our party had the privilege i I li n i GO PERSONAL NARRATIVE. of meeting together in the evenings in the family parlour. This arrangement proved to be very agreeable to all parties, as it afforded the means of private intercourse apart from the general company. We took our meals at the public table. A large and spacious room was occupied for break- fast, dinner, and tea ; if any one chose supper, he ordered it specifically, and took it in his own apartment. This was our daily routine as to the common-place matter of eating and drinking. Our fare was excellent ; made up of many sorts of the more substantial dishes and dessert every day, and all prepared in the best possible manner. We often found an aggregate of not less than two hun- dred, scarcely ever fewer than one hundred and fifty. These parties consisted of travellers, men of business, inhabitants of the town, and, for the time being, of Me- thodist preachers. I soon found my position very plea- sant ; and the thing I most coveted was now put into my hands, — an opportunity of observing American character and manners on a large and diversified scale. Being now fixed in my comfortable domicile, the next thing was to open my commission. It began with a diplomatic blunder. My friend Stevens, from Boston, an inmate at our house, told me he would arrange with one of the senior brethren to introduce me to the Conference ; and, in due time, call for me. Accordingly in a while he made his appearance, and informed me be had spoken to one of the elder ministers, who had agreed to perform the duty of introducing me. V7e vvcat together to the church where the assembly was sitting, and I made my way into the midst of the preachers. Happening to take a seat near my old friend Dr. Durbin, I accosted him, and at first he did not know me ; but, soon recovering from this absence of mind, he said, I had done wrong in com- ing in, that they were about to send a deputation to intro- duce me in form, and that I should have waited. I ofi^ered to retire ; but he proposed to speak to the bishops ; and, on his doing so, they desired me to remain. In a short time they called me up ; and when I had delivered my creden- tials. Bishop Hedding introduced me to the Conference, making such observations as occurred to him. In the few remarks I made, the official short-hand writer entirely misreported me in one particular. He represented me as saying that we, the English Methodists, were " all on one side ;" whilst the fact is, I spid, " We were all on the side of liberty, of emancipation." By this interpretation of my v PART I. CHAPTER V. 61 I one nee; e he jn to 1 the the my take and rom om- tro- red nd, ime en- ce, few ely as lone of my remarks, I was made to assume the position of a partisan in the great dispute between the North and the South ; whereas nothing could by possibility be farther from my thoughts or meaning. Were it not that I considered myself, not as a private person, but as the representative of the British Conference, and that they have an interest in the spirit and manner in which the person representing them was received, propriety would dictate that I should be silent on many things which occurred at this first meet- ing, and on many subsequent occasions. But seeing that the Methodist body in England in some sort stood in my person, in the presence of the Methodist Episcopal Church in America, in fraternal relations, undoubtedly those who sent me have a right to know how their greetings were received. They may, then, be assured that they were hailed in the most cordial, affectionate, and Christian spi- rit and manner. When the British Conference (for so the matter is to be understood) was introduced to the Ame- rican body, as a mark of respect and good- will, every minister present spontaneously, not by order of the chair, stood up, and paid the parent body the most profound and hearty respect. This was done in a manner not to be mistaken. Nothing trifling, formal, diplomatic, marked the movement. It was not the expression of mere cour- tesy to a stranger ; it was the manly burst of affectionate regard for a body to whom, I am perfectly sure, they feel the most devout attachment. After these introductory greetings were finished, one of the brethren offered a reso- lution, to the effect, that the British representative should be incorporated amongst themselves as a member of Conference, and should be invited to take part in their proceedings and debates, as he might find it convenient, and be so disposed. This resolution was unanimously carried. Not content with a public recognition, the five bishops came that evening to my lodgings to pay their respects ; not to me, let it always be kept in mind, but to the Me- thodist church in this country. This they did in the most handsome and hearty manner. The conversation turned, as might be expected, on the affairs of Methodism in both countries. I found the bishops, on this and all subse- quent occasions, deeply interested in our affairs. Looking up to us as the elder branch of the great Methodistic family, from whence they received their own birth and blessings, they evidently entertain a most ardent attachment I\ M ,1 i I < 62 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. to US ; and, whether well or ill deserved, certainly a high opinion of our religious state. Whatever may be the fact respecting the sentiments and feelings of the political body towards the mother country, — ^and on this question mv opinions differ from those who consider the great body of the American people as hostile to Great Britain, — most assuredly, there is nothing of ill-will in the Methodist bishops, ministers, and people towards their brt3thren in England. All our old and distinguishing characteristics, such as the itinerancy, class-meetmgs, and other advan- tages ; the state of piety and experimental religion, the progress we were making, as well as our doctrinal fidelity ; were all matters of inquiry on the part of the bishops. After an interesting and lengthy conversation on these and kindred subjects, we parted ; certainly with a deep impression left on my mind, that the American church was greatly favoured in its chief officers. Having given a narrative of Conference proceedings elsewhere, the account need not be ento' '1 upon here. The few remarks which remain to be made, must refer to men and things. I happened to be placed in a most favourable position to see and hold intercourse with every body. All had free access to my room, and it was hardly ever empty. The whole body of preachers, at one time or another, called upon me ; and I hud much very pleasant and profit- able intercourse with them. I found them, in private, a most pious, intelligent, and well-informed race of men. Their knowledge of their own system, economy, and con- stitution, I perceived, was exact and enlightened ; their ex- perience of the working of the system of Methodism com- plete ; for many of them had been in the service of the church many years, and had seen much of their country, together with its habits and manners. They were well- informed on all American affairs, and took a lively interest in their country's weal ; and, moreover, some of them were extremely respectable in literature and general knowledge. No man amongst them was a neuter ; he had opinions on all points, and held them with tenacity ; but was perfectly free to hear those of other people, and removed as far as possible from a dogmatical spirit. Reasoning is their Jbrte : they are fond of argument. I found them loyal to their country and to Methodism. They seem to entertain no scruples or doubts as to their government being the best in the world. This being the feeling of sober and religious men, must be considered as f I PART I. CHAPTER V. 63 rell- lerest them leral had but and )irit. I [ism. kheir the id as worth notIc(% much more than that of political zealots of any grade. I found most of the Methodist ministers what is called, in America, " Whigs," which means, in our country, " Conservatives." They had an utter dislike to the war-spirit growing up in America, disapproved very much of the Moxican war, and denounced the policy of President Polk's administration. There were, of course, exceptions ; but this seemed to be the general opinion amongst them. The northern men were all decided and zealous abolitionists. They abhor slavery as much as it is possible to be abhorred in this country ; and many of them are sanguine as to the possibility of making this a state question, and in a short time electing an anti- slavery President. Their Methodism is a belief, a truth, a principle. They as much believe in the soundness of Methodistic doc- trines, the excellency of their ecclesiastical polity, and the religion of their system, as in the truth of the word of God itself. Republicans though they may be, they are not revolutionists. And the same is the case regarding their religious convictions. In a free and easy intercourse with these men for a fortnight, I did not hear one word which savoured of disaffection to their ecclesiastical institutions. This was the case respecting their bishops ; not a murmur was heard. They were perfectly loyal to the church. This, as will be seen, must give the church great power and force. Every man is prepared to take his place, and do his best. None of his strength is frittered away in wrangling disputes, in projects of reform, in tinkering and mending the system. On the other hand, he occupies his sphere of labour with the undoubted persuasion that he is serving the cause of God ; that he is connected with a form of religion which must prevail, because divine ; and that his business is not to mend the rules, but to keep them. We cannot be surprised at the amazing success of a system of religion so supported, and so worked. Every man is possessed of an idea, a truth, which he feels him- self bound to propagate. He does this without hesitation, puts his whole soul into his mission, and it is done unto him according to his faith. In a few days after my arrival. Bishop Soule made his appearance, and took up his abode, at our hotel. This to me was a most pleasant incident. We had much inter- course and conversation. He had not lost his English impressions. His sojoura in our country, his reception i 64 PEllSONAL NARRATIVE. ^V and treatment by the Conference and people, had left a very grateful recollection on his mind. He entered fully into the subject of his connexion with the South ; saying, he supposed we should be surprised at the event. He avowed that he acted from the dictates of his con- science, believing that he should be best enabled, in the section of tbc church he had chosen, to advance the interests of his Master's kingdom. Every body who knows Bishop Soule must receive this testimony. He is incapable of equivocation, or of any thing dishonourable. He avowed that his convictions of the evils of slavery had undergone no change ; it was as much the object of his abhorrence as ever. His explanations of his conduct amounted to this : that, in his opinion, the only possible way of ever reaching a measure of emancipation lay in bringing the population of the South, masters and slaves, under the influence of the Gospel ; and that the only means of accomplishing this was in not agitating the question, but in quietly preaching the truth to both, leaving it in the providence of God to work its own results : moreover, that for ministers to agitate the ques- tion of emancipation, would infallibl}' cause the planters of the Soutii to shut the door against all attempts at evan- gelization, and have the eflFect of leaving masters and ser- vants in their sins. Impressed by these considerations, he thought it best to remain in the South, his family residing in that part of the country, and he himself having, for many years, chiefly laboured in these States. He desired that his affectionate remembrances might be given to the Bri- tish Conference ; saying, he knew that, with our opinions and relations to the American Episcopal Church, we could hold no official communion with them ; but if the Con- ference chose to send or allow any of their messen- gers, on visiting America, to call upon them, or inspect their work, they would be most gladly and heartily received. As long as Bishop Soule lives, there can be no doubt that this would be the case. The nobility of his nature is above all petty jealousies ; and there are many men in the South of a like spirit with himself. Several other southern men made their appearance, — as Mr. Early, the book-agent or steward at Richmond, Dr. Lee, and Dr. Bascom. With all these gentlemen I held inter- course. Mr. Early presented me with a newly-revised Hymn-Book, beautifully got up and well-arranged, toge- PART I. CHAPTER V. 90 ther with several otlier works connected with the southern question. These gentlemen manifested the greatest kind- ness and urbanity ; and did all in their power to leave an impression on my mind, that the position which they now hold has not caused them to be less ]Methodisti( al than before. In spirit, piety, honesty of purpose., — in frank- ness of character, in warm affections, — they certainly arc not. Dr. Lee presented me with his INlemoirs of his illustrious grandfather, Jesse Lee. A worthy scion this of a noble stock. There are found here and there great roots of humanity, as well as of forest troes, which send forth, for some generations, noble offshoots. This is one. A fine young man, full of feeling, learning, intelligence, and good principle ; destined, it is to be hoped, for many years to adorn the sacred calling to which he is devoted. Dr. Bascom, the president of Pennsylvania University at Lexington, came late, and I had only the opportunity of seeing him once. But this one interview was sufficient to convince me that he possessed a powerful intellect, of masculine form, richly furnished, highly polished, and conversant with various learning and knowledge. He had been making a long preaching tour in the South dur- ing the vacation, and we heard that his ministry had made a deep impression. This gentleman is considered a master of eloquence ; and if he drew up the state-papers which appear in the dispute betwixt the South and the North in 1844, — which I believe, — his pen is as eloquent as his tongue ; his eloquence, however, not being that of decla- mation, but of reason, and clothed in the flowing dress of lucid and beautiful diction. I deem it but fair thus to mention the ministers of the South to whom I was intro- duced, fearing lest their connexion with that church should lead to the conclusion that, in their personal cha- racter, they are something different from other Methodist ministers. It was my happiness to preach twice each Lord's day, on the two Sundays I remained at Pittsburg, and once before the Conference. The worship was devout and spiritual, the congregations were large, and every thing proceeded much in our English manner. After the morning service on the first Sabbath, the Lord's supper was administered, exactly after the order of the Prayer- Book. An incident occurred at this service of a pleasing nature. Bishop Soule and Dr. Pierce being present, they were invited to take part in the service, which they did ; thus showing I 1^' -t/- |k ,\' 66 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. to ^he world that the ecclesiastical differences existing between the two parties, were not deemed sufficient to sever the bods of religious brotherhood, to destroy the more sacred ties of soiritual affection, or to indicate that one party considered the other as heretics. This was very cheering t j behold. Whilst mentioning these matters, I must state one or two things in passing, not of much consequence in them- selves, and yet tending to illustrate the state of feeling amongst our frends in the States. As a loyal subiect of Queen Victoria, ms.ugj o al! suspicions to the contiary, I deemed it m^ du':y., in every public service, to pray first for our Queen a^'d Government, and then, secondly, for the President vf the States, and Government of the coun- try ; pu ung in petitions, tl^n nui union might never be iaterru^>ted b} fisr "♦ro ■ \SS -.v.. How was this received? Did it pro6t:.-c? disanp', ition ? Just the reverse. It called forth iic;: y r'^?:':c>ses. .id many expressions of approval. 0'.3 more ijioie) i We had been holding a scliool-meeitinff ot o r venl* < i, tl e Conference-chapel, when, after tic service v,ai c^v-udec', fhe choir struck up "God save th^ ^ueen." I ccifess I f.,!? tLis a most delicate and g'"::itefu' r.ompHm nt j>:.i.* io m/ country; and, moreover, f,jjT,t a people \^ilO Cv>aid do ^'?i^, were in possession, at once, o'. govl feeling anrl tne ',u-.te. I n?,.' -^r*j^'f this was too much for my sober-minded companion, Ryerson, who soon retired ; but I was determined to see it out, and remained. It was an odd r.ffair, most certainly. Having put them into a mesmeric state, the operator professed to touch and move the phre- nological bumps of his patients; and, whether real or feigned, I know not, but they played off some most singu- lar antics. All parties were perfectly civil, no one dis- puting or contradicting in <^««y way. The ladies were full of amazement; sorn<' in raptur«>«? <'xclaiming, "How asto- nishing!" " Wonderf.i"" " Beautiful !" "Is it not fine?" t|ie men, in the mean time, shrugging-up their shoulders, skulking ba<;k, knitting their brows, and frowning doubt, without saying any thing. PART I. CHAPTEU VI. 73 an 2ric ^re- or i;u- iis- Ml to- ;?" brs, Ibt, Chap. VI. — Cincinnati — Mi: Smith — Jufjuru — // Storm in the Country — Binhop M'llvain's Country Rpsidonce — A Fire — The Sabbath — The City — Start fur Sandusky — The Forest — Diffi- culties of cleariny Lani — The Railroad throuyh the Forest — -/ Staye Journey — Arrival at I'rbana — Arrival at Sandusky. We arrived at Cincinnati early on Saturday morning. The friends being informed, by telegraph, that we might be expected, we found a carriage waiting our arrival to conduct us to our lodgings. I had been appointed to stay at the house of Christopher Smith, Esq., whom I found to be a countryman, from Stockton, in tlie north of Eng- land, and Mrs. Smith, a county-woman of my own, from Leicestershire. Mr. Smith had left home when young; but, before his removal, had obtained the knowledge and enjoyment of religion. lie remembered several of the old preachers, having waited upon them in his boyhood, and mentioned Mr. Kershaw with great affection. He received me with genuine cordiality, and set himself to do all in his power to make my sojourn as agreeable as possible. After the necessary ablutions and breakfast, I set out by myself to obtain a notion of the character of the city. Rambling into one of the suburbs, I saw five or six large cotton-mills by the river-side, together with other manu- factories. The day being hot, and feeling some weariness from the voyage, 1 sat down on some steps — not of stone, but of wood — in the outskirts of the town, on the entrance into a garden, in front of a genteel-looking house. I had not been seated many minutes before the lady of the house came, and asked me to walk in and take a seat. On my declining this polite offer, she very soon returned with a bouquet of most fragrant roses ; and then, in a little while after, she came a third time, with newspapers, saying, " You would, perhaps, wish to sec the morning papers." I know not what JMrs. TroUope would make of this instance of American manners ; but I felt that any polite- ness could hardly exceed this. Bishop Morris had, in his great kindness, written to friends living four or five miles from the city, to take me to see a sulurb, in the direction of their residence, called Auburn : \t seems considered by the citizens as the " West End " of Cincinnati. I was accordingly escorted in the afternoon to this place ; and certainly it is, and pro- mises to be much more so, a beautiful locality. The house of our friends is quite in the country ; and, amongst B 74 PIRSONAL NARRATIVE. other prospects, commands a view of the residence, "which woukl, in this country, be called the palace, of one of the first men in America, — good Bishop M'llvain. His peo- ple have huilt him a fine little church, near his residence ; and the spire of this church, rising in the midst of the sylvan scene, causes it to have a perfectly lihiglish appear- ance. The good bishop uas from home, in his diocess ; otherwise I might have enjoyed the benefit of hearing liim, as the church in which he usually officiates is close to the house of Mr. Smith, and the family are in the habit of hearing him often. The bishop enjoys a high reputa- tion as a faithful and able minister of our Lord Jesus Christ. Whilst in the country, at our friends' house, we were visited by a tremendous storm. This storm was exceed- ingly grand ; the thunder was loud and terrific ; the rain descended in torrents ; and the lightning, unlike ours of theforky description, appeared like sheets of fire, whilst the heavens seemed enveloped in one universal blaze. This storm did considerable damage. One of our own Me- thodist friends, being thrown from his horse, suffered some mischief; but, providentially, his life was spared. In the night, another of our people had his house set on fire, near our lodgings. The noise from the sounding of bells, the yells of the population, and the exertions of firemen, was awful. The fire in due time was happily subdued, though much damage was done ; the stock in trade being paper. The Sunday dawned ; and it was a blessed day. I preached twice ; the congregations being large, lively, and devout. To show the difference of feeling between the Americans and most Christians in our country, we may just mention, that Dr. Ajlott, an eminent Episcopalian miinister, sat in the pulpit with the Methodist ministers present, on both occasion;. Having found, for the first time, in the possession of Mr. Smith, a copy of Asbury's Journal, I spent the intervals of worship very profitably in perusing this interesting narrative. Mr. Smith had the goodness, afterwards, to present me with this work ; an invaluable treasure, full of important information and incident connected with the early history of Methodism in the United States. Cincinnati is called " the queen city of the west," and deserves the designation. It is beautifully situated on the banks of the Ohio, on rising ground, somewhat in the PART I. CIIAPTKR VI. 75 Ism in i" and pd on in the form of a half-circle. The houses and shops are spacious, and well furnished; the streets cut each other at right angles, giving the place perfect uniformity of appearance ; and the allotments of houses and buildings thus formed ;irc called " squares." This nameat firstdeceived me ; m hen hear- ing them speak of First, Second, and Third Square, and so on, I thought a square in our sense of the term was meant, but soon found out ray mistake. When perambulating this place, and recollecting the brevity of the period of its existence, I was much puzzled to know where the funds came from which built and furnished all their costly houses and shops. My friend, Mr. Smith, had resided in Cincinnati about forty-five years, lie informed me, that, when he took up his abode first, there were only between nine and ten hundred inhabitants: " And now there are," he said, " near one hundred thousand:" at that time he made the twenty-second member in the Methodist soci- ety ; but at the present time there are many thousands : and when he went first to the place, he informed me, he used to sweep out his joiner's shop for preaching, there being no other place in the city in which they could hold divine service ; but they have raised in the course of this time about twenty large churches. This good man justly and gratefully appreciates the dealiiigs of Providence ^vitli liim- self. With eyes brilliant with joyous emotions, he added, "And I feel it a great mercy and privilege to have had some little hand in it all." Well might he feel grateful and happy at the consciousness of helping forward the work of God for so many years, and living to witness such results. Time pressed, and we were obliged to leave on Monday morning. Our course lay by rails across the country to the Lakes, a distance of two hundred and nineteen miles. I had been told that this route would afford nic the opportunity of seeing, on an extended scale, the agricul- tural character and resources of the western country ; and I was not disappointed. The entire territory was either perfectly new, or only very recently cultivated. Tliis will appear from the fact, that many of the rising towns bear the name even of living men ; as Polktown, called after the President, and Claysville, after the eminent statesman of that name. The whole scene was very curious; the only uniform and finished thing being the railroad on which we travelled ; the greater part of the country still remaining unbroken forest. Through this forest-scene our railroad had been cut, at a vast cost of money and labour ; E 2 I V i' 76 PERSONAL NARnATIVE. the trees liaving, of course, to be felled by the woodman's axe, as >vell as the road itself levelled and prepared. To the inhabitants of these solitudes, — now limited to wild animals, the Indians beinj^ all gone^^ — the blaze of our fire, the liz/ing of our steam, the sound of our whistle, the noise of our motion, and the rapidity of our speed, must appear a singular solecism in the. midst of the sylvan scents of their joyous freedom. What music for the forest is a railroad train ! How fine and perfect the har- mony between the singing of birds, the leap of squirrels, the bounding of the hind, the stag, the deer, and all the other forms of life and motion peculiar to the wilder- ness ; — and the smoke, ashes, dirt, creaking, bellowing, of u huge train, laden with human and all other kinds of lumber ! We dashed along through these forest scenes, indifferent as to the sentiment of concord, the "eternal laws and fitness of things," and matters of that sort, notwithstanding ; intent only upon our mission of progress, though it should oblige us to cut down all the trees in the universe, disturb the repose of nature in her lair, and quench the lights of heaven by the smoke of our civilizing chimneys. But to return. The country through which we passed appeared to be extremely rich, and capable of bearing most abundant crops of wheat, and every other kind of grain. A great part of the land, which is considered as cleared, and occupied for agricultural purposes, is only so to a very imperfect degree. The trees of the forest are cut off about two feet above their root, and the stumps left standing in the fields. These stumps are seen every where, and hav ? not an agreeable appearance ; the farmer ploughs and sows around them ; so that the harvest has to be reaped and collected in the midst of these annoy- ing hinderances to the sweep of the scythe. They are left in this state to rot ; and when the process of decay has proceeded to a certain point, a machine is employed to draw, that is, to twist, them up ; just on the principle of the dentist's operations in drawing a tooth. On beholdingthislineof road, I was very deeply impressed with the idea, that the matter of "clearing" forest -land is a most herculean affair. Let any one just imagine even an acre to be cleared by a new comer, with only his own hands and those of his children, either not hav- ing the means of obtaining help, or that help not to be obtained : How great the difficulty ! When the trees are TART I. CHAPTER VI. 77 foiled, tlie roots and stumps still remain ; the soil turned up, the crop must liavc time to grow, and the returns of labour be waited for till harvest ; the lopj-hut, built in the spare hours saved from sleep and pressing calls of duty elsewhere, is no defence against the wintry storm ; if domestic animals are possessed, they are wanted for food ; if clothing is enjoyed in the beginning of the opera- tion, it wears out ; and as to money to purchase new, when even the necessaries of life have not yet been ob- tained from the soil, — that is out of the question. The pri- vations, sutt'erings, and sacrifices of life, which even the matter of clearing must have cost the human family, in the amount of forest now occupied by the hal)itations of man in America, must be infinite. How vital, indeed, how pro- found and dominant a passion must the love of possession and independence be, to impel such hosts of men to quit a quiet and mediocre mode of life, but dependent, to seek in the forest, in the midst of such toil as this, the happi- ness of calling their land and their house their own ! The first occupants can never, certainly, enjoy much of the fruit of their own labour, except in very particular cases : but then here another mighty passion comes in to help the soul in her heroic perseverance ; there is the love of posterity, the hope of laying a foundation for the happi- ness of children. The clearance of the forest is no other than the development of these instincts of nature. The line along which we passed was evidently doing its work. Numerous villages and towns were rising ; stores, warehouses, mills, and buildings of every kind were being put up ; new farm-houses were appearing at intervals all aloiig the road ; and, passing large portions of forest still undisturbed, every now and then the effects of the wood- man's axe were apparent in chasms made by the recent fall of trees, and the partial cultivation of portions of the ground. Every thing was life, bustle, and activity. Great numbers of Irish were seen at work on the line, and at other employments ; a useful and laborious class. One could not help seeing the contrast betwixt these poor people and all around them, even in America. The Celt beai's the unnnstakable physiognomy of his race in all countries, for af lea; t one generation. Before reaching uur destination, we had to r^^uit the rail- road, and mount stages fourteen miles, the line being unfi- nished. I took a seat on the box to see the country, but had difficulty enough to keep my equilibrium ; the jolting was ■,%. ^>. ,v^, •»•'^• ^'•V IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 l^|2£ 12.5 •a 1^ II 2.2 m m II I.I l*^ lii lUI ill III 1.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STftt^^^ WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 iV ^^ •1>^ :\ \ ^v Q.^ «. <^'^ ^^^ .r^. ,.v i/.x \ r wmam HH wmm. HP Ki^l V 78 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. horrible. Our course could not be called a road, in any sense, except from the mere fact, that it had been tra- versed before, and we also were now passing over it. We made our way across gullies, rivulets, rising hillocks, and then again sunk up to our axletrees in bogs. We were * roughly handled by great stones lying in our course, roots of trees projecting their fibres ; and then again by pieces of timber put into soft places, by way of making a pavement for passengers to cross. Really this journeying of the American stages, in the midst of a country such as we passed through this day, is a curiosity. It would be, indeed, extremely difficult, a priori^ to imagine how the carriage was to escape being capsized many times told; how the horses were to keep their feet, and perform their task ; and how the driver could possibly preserve his seat, and pilot his vehicle through so many shoals to a safe anchorage. Jiuch, however, is use and experience, that calamities rartly occur; and though sufficiently shaken, and not free from fear, yet we arrived safely at our destined place of rest for the night. The country through which we passed is of the nature of an avenue cut through the forest, sometimes a mile or two broad, and at other places less. This space is occu- pied by splendid farms, rich and productive in the high- est degree. The farm-houses are nearly all good sub- stantial brick or stone buildings ; and many of them much like the fine residences of our country gentry. There must be great comfort in this region, and, when the railroad is finished, easy of access ; it affi)rding the means of transport for the produce of the soil, either to Cincin- nati on the Ohio on the one hand, or to the lakes on the other. And one cannot help asking, If without this road and its advantages industry and enterprise could do so much, what are we to expect now that all these facilities of progress are opened ? It must certainly become, shortly, one of the richest tracts of country in America. This is a fine part of the States for settlers in the fanning line, if necessity or inclination should cause them to leave their fatherland. In case any such parties should cast their eyes on this book, I should certainly recommend them to examine this region, before they think of locating elsewhere. Our resting-place for the night was a new and rising town in the wilderness, called Urbana. We found a good inn, and spoke for beds. While we were doing this, some PART I. CF AFTER VII. 79 Methodist friends, who had been apprized of our coming by telegraph, were in search of us. We called to pay a friendly visit, and found them very agreeable ; but, hav- ing engaged our lodging, declined a kind and hearty invitation to take up our abode with them. On retiring to bed, I was soon expelled by some old friends, who own me wherever I go ; and was obliged to go down stairs, and get such rest as lying across some chairs would allow. While in this posture, a number of young fellows, black and white, assembled at the door of the house ; and I suppose we had in them a specimen of back-wood lan- guage of the worst sort I had not, up to this time, heard an oath of profane language of any kind since I left my native land, either on board ship or in America ; but these young sinners made up for the lack. I cannot repeat their oaths : it is a shame to speak of such deeds of darkness; but I never heard since I existed such shocking profanity. This sort of life no doubt prevailed — we have all kinds of testimony to the fact — universally, till the forests and woods were visited by the messengers of salvation ; and a better state of things was superinduced by their labours. We set out the next morning for Sandusky, and, reaching that place towards night, beheld Lake Erie for the first time. Tfce town itself has no great beauty for the present. It is, however, a bustling, stirring place; and, from its situation, must soon rise to magnitude and importance. Chap. "VII. — T7te Lakes — Erie — Pass down — Buffalo — Niagara River — Scenery on its Banks — The Falls of Niagara — Canada — The People — Visit tlie Battle-Field of Lundy-Lane — The Suspension- Bridge — St. Catherine's — Hamilton. It was impossible to see this wonderful inland sea without deep emotion. The evening was bright and calm, the bosom of the Lake unruiEHed by a breeze, the sun retired in majesty and beauty behind the waters ; it was a lovely sunset. '^ Lake Erie is three hundred miles in length, forty-six at its utmost breadtli, seven hundred and sixteen in cir- cumference, and about fifty-six fathoms at its greatest depth. At its northern extremity, it is much exposed to violent gales, and its navigation is both tedious and dan- gerous. It contains, towards the west, a number of beau- tiful islands, in which are many remarkable caverns. WOBM 80 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. abounding in curious stalactites. These islands are also full of reptiles, especially rattlesnakes ; and the margin of the lake is in many places completely covered, for many acres, with the large leaves of the pond-lily, upon which, in the summer season, myriads of water-snakes are seen basking in the sun. The bottom is a bluish limestone rock, and its banks are clothed with wood, abounding in game and wild animals." Some of these characteristics are rapidly disappearing. On the American side, especially, large and flourishing towns are rising up ; the country, to the edge of the Lake, is being cultivated, and a busy and thriving population is taking the place of the wild animals formerly inhabiting the jungle. The Canada side has not made the same progress ; but still the country is gradually being cleared and occupied. We departed from Sandusky, nearly at the top of the lake, the morning after our arrival. Our destination was Buffalo, at the other extremity of the Lake, so that the distance was something like three hundred miles. The day was fine, and the view beautiful. We called at many places to take in wood and passengers ; and amongst the rest at Cleveland, a large and flourishing city, the termi- nation of the Erie canal, and consequently the link con- necting the Lakes with New- York and the Atlantic States. Keeping near the American shore, a pretty good view was often obtained of the country, which every where indi- cated activity and progress. We arrived at Buffalo the next morning. This is a large and populous city, full of business, bustle, and enterprise. Its importance consists in the excellency of its harbour, and its contiguity to Canada. A flourishing commerce is apparent, which must constantly grow with the inciease of population. But other thoughts now occupied our minds ; we cared little for trade and busi- ness in the immediate vicinity of one of the miracles of nature, — one of the wonders of the world. Our breakfast was late in coming, at least so we thought in our feverish anxiety ; when it came, it was soon despatched, and we at once mounted the " car" for the Falls of Niagara. The distance is only twenty-two miles, and we soon reached this celebrated spot. Our line lay in bight of the Niagara River, connecting Lakes Erie and Ontario. This is a most magnificent stream, studded with beautiful islands ; one of which, called ^' Grand Island," is of great extent. PART I. CHAPTER VII. 81 I listened with great eagerness long before we approached the spot ; then listened again, as we advanced, with augmented intensity of interest, to catch the sound of the cataract, but heard no note of the rush of "mighty waters." Arriving at the terminus, and alighting, every thing wore the same quiet aspect. No unusual sound of any kind was perceptible, and the people seemed unconscious of any thing remarkable in their neighbourhood. " How is this ? " was the thought. ' Is the giant asleep ? Or have we been deceived by exaggerated reports respecting the extent of sound arising from this waterfall?" Nothing then arose to solve the mystery, and nothing since has been suggested. And if it is true that the sound is heard for fifteen miles, as is often asserted, it can only be in some peculiar state of the atmosphere. Some preliminary account seems to be necessary to any thing like an accurate description of the Falls themselves. We begin by observing, that the river divides, about a mile above the cataract, into two streams. This division of the water is not equal ; and the principal river suffers no perceptible diminution, keeping on in a straight line. But at the distance above mentioned a comparatively small channel is formed to the right, and through this branch a portion of the original river pours forth its torrent. The first effect of this division is to form an island, denominated Goat Island. This si \aller stream continues its course for about a mile, and then returns to the main channel, re-entering by its side some short dis- tance below the Great, or Horseshoe, Fall ; and the pre- cipitous leap of this branch stream into the bed of the main river constitutes the American, or Little, Fall. The Rapids, extending for a mile above the Falls, con- stitute another peculiarity. The descent in the course of this distance is about fifty-two feet, so that the velocity \jf the waters from this cause necessarily becomes pro- digiously great. But this movement is not merely occa- sioned by the alrove incline ; the channel is, in the same space, narrowed from something like three miles across to less than one as it approaches the cataract : the effect of this double process of descent and compression is to pro- duce a vastly augmented force and velocity. Whether from the wear and rapidity of the stream, or from other causes, no one can tell, but the channel through the whole of this space is evidently shelved and broken, forming partial precipices, over which the waves are constantly E 5 mBRHP «2 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. tlasliing, sending up their foam and spray. The agita- tions, eddies, whirlpools, eccentric encounters of wave with wave, and current against current, unite to produce one of the most curious tumults of water which can well be imagined ; and were it not for the proximity of something more grand and noble, the Rapids would be considered a singular exception to the uniformity of nature, and would be visited as a relief to the ennui left upon the mind by only seeing seas, lakes, rivers, bnd all the other elaborations of the universe producing their results in the ordinary manner. The smaller stream above described is altogether on the American side, and Goat Island is reached by a wooden bridge spanning the channel. We hastened to cross this bridge, and enter upon the magic ground of Goat Island ; resolved, at the same time, to leave every avenue of the soul open to the inspirations of the moment, whether of surprise, of rapture, or of awe. But this was found to be difficult. Prepossessions in visiting scenes of this nature are unfavourable to first impressionp, to a full admission of fine feelings, of lofty sentiments, or even of real and adequate conceptions. These prepossessions, in my case, I found to be all untrue; they had all to be removed from my mind before even the grandeurs which I beheld, which stood arrayed before me in all their majesty and glory, could produce any accurate ideal, or excite any corresponding emotion. These mental errors reached to every thing ; just as the mind under the influence of one false impression is itself placed in a wrong position, and consequently becomes incapable of seeing any thing aright. The whole scene, from these causes, though not less extraordinary than I had imagined, yet was so in a perfectly different manner to any thing anticipated. From all I had read, as well as from the testimony of eye-witnesses, I had always supposed that the scenery around, the country itself, was bold, lofty, sublime, — whereas it is perfectly level. Through the same decep- tion I had imagined that the waters of the river must have rushed through some mighty chasm, some prodigious rent and fissure of mountain, broken through to form the channel, whilst overhanging rocks, hideous precipices, and lofty peaks, frowned in awful majesty upon the current as it passed ; but instead of this being the case, the banks are quite even, and covered with verdure, plants, flowers, and PART T. CHAPTER VII. 83 beautiful trees. Under the influence of the same miscon- ception, I had next fancied that the visitor Tvas always E laced at the bottom of the Falls, that the torrent fell at is feet, that he had to lift up his astonished eyes to gaze on the descending flood ; whilst, in reality, he finds Himself at the top, on a level with the edge of the precipice, having to look down into a frightful gulf below. Our path across Goat Island brought us close to the American Fall. I sat down on the roots of a tree on a level with the crest of the cataract, and almost near enough to touch the waters with my foot. My com- panion, who had often seen these wonders of nature pre- viously, left me alone, and amused himself by walking about the island. I sat silent and motionless a long time, looking with a sort of vacant astonishment on the whole scene. The thoughts, " It is grand ! it is sublime ! it is awful ! " crossed my mind, but nothing definite had fixed itself there ; all remained in the same confusion, chaos, stupefaction. At length, as if awaking from a dream, I exclaimed, " How beautiful ! " And then, in a moment, a thrill ran through my soul like an electrical shock, which at once scattered the mists ; and I exclaimed, loud enough to have been heard, " Ah, yes, that is it, that is it, — it belongs to the beautiful ! " This was a new idea, a revelation, and transformed the whole scene in an instant into perfect unity and glory. With this general notion, this new instrument, I began to examine the several objects around ; endeavoured to analyse, to separate, the elements, to watch the extraordi- nary movements of the liquid machine which was moving so majestically around me ; and yet, at the same time, to combine, to grasp the whole. Is beauty compatible with sublimity ? Can the two attributes exist in one and the same object ? Must the sublime be necessarily devoid of the beautiful ? must the beautiful be destitute, per « In foray \v\\d and rude ; But Cora's time-rock'd castle sleeps In peaceful soUtude. " Wliat wouldst thou think, sweet Cora Lyini, Couldst thou Niagara spy. The mighty monarch of the West, With terror in his eye ? Thou 'dst fear him on liis ocean throne, Like lion in his lair ; Meek snooded maiden, dower'd with all That father Clyde can spare. " For thou might'st perch, like hooded bird, Upon his giant hand ; Nor midst his world of waters wake A ripple on his strand. He 'd drink thee up, sweet Cora Lynn ; And thou, to crown the sip, Wouldst scarce a wheen of bubbles make Upon his monstrous lip. " Thy voice, that bids the foliage quake, Around thy crystal brim, Would quiver like the cricket's chirp, Midst his hoarse thunder "hymn. 90 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. For like a thing that scorns the earth, He rears his awful crest, And takes the rainbow from the skies, And folds it round his breast. " Thou 'rt passing fair, sweet Cora Lynn ; And he who sees thee leap Into the bosom of the flood, Might o'er thy beauty weep. But lone Niagara still doth speak Of God both night and day ; And force, from each terrestrial thought. The gazer's soul away." Every book I had read, and every person with whom I had conversed, after visiting America and Canada, united in their testimony as to the great difference instantly felt on passing the boundary line; and this change seemed always to be represented in favour of Canada ; whilst any attempt at pointing out the nature of this contrast, its causes and its characteristics, has never, so far as I know, been attempted. The fact is indisputable. It is not a matter of reasoning, of inference, of opinion ; it is in- stantly felt, as much as in going out of a warm room into a cold atmosphere. What is it which produces the change ? The preference is, of course, a matter of taste. The American temperament is by some generally prefer- red, and by others the Canadian. Let us look at the case. On the American side, the people are all life, elasticity, buoyancy, activity ; on the Canadian side, we have a people who appear subdued, tame, spiritless, as if living much more under the influ- ence of fear than hope. Again : on the American terri- tory, we behold men moving as if they had the idea that their calling was to act, to choose, to govern, — at any rate to govern themselves ; on the Canada soil, we see a race, perhaps more polite than the other, but who seem to live under the impression that their vocation is to receive orders, and obey. Then, on the American side, you are placed in the midst of incessant bustle, agitation; the hotels are filled, coaches are in constant movement, railroad trains passing and repassing with their pas- sengers, whilst men of business are seen pushing their concerns with impassioned ardour. On the Canada shore, we have comparatively still life ; delicate, genteel, formal. Moreover, on the American territory, all along the shores PART I. CF/APTER VII. 91 of the lakes, the country is being cleared, houses and vil- lages built, >Torkis put up, incipient ports opened, and trade begun. On the Canada shore, unbroken forest appears for miles, whilst the small openings which have been made present themselves to view in a very infantine and feeble state of progress. All this was exhibited at once at our hotel itself. We had been put down in the town of Niagara on the Ame- rican side, in the midst of an active population, and has- tened at once to one of several large hotels. Besides being splendidly fitted up, it was full of people. In my ignorance I had imagined that we were to take up our residence at this place, and hastened to engage a room ; in this attempt I found it difBcult to obtain accommoda- tion at all, and failed altogether in securing a chamber which commanded a view of the Falls. We crossed over to the Canadian village, and found an equally commodious inn ; but the contrast was most striking. The saloon to which we were directed was equal to one of the Ame- rican dining-rooms, capable of accommodating from one hundred and fifty to two hundred persons. What was the company ? When dinner was announced, about ten persons sat at one end of a prodigious table, receiving the good things of Providence in perfect silence, except as broken by some common-place phrases of politeness. There sat at our table, on this and on all other occa- sions, an old lady, the perfect personification of the state of things around us. This lady had a dowager-like appearance and air, the quintessence of politeness, with studied movements and manners, as if she had been in the observance of punctilios for fifty years. Her dress, head- gear, and ornaments had been adjusted as if for a ball- room. Our friend might have been taken ''••om Niagara to any saloon in St. James's, and would have surprised no one by the transfer. Now these are the things which, no doubt, please many of our voyageurs from this country, and cause them to consider Canadian society as tran- scendently above that of the United States. The sight of that old lady would settle the question at once on the score of gentility ; and especially when it is added, that at the Canada hotel the gentlem'^n and ladies take wine at dinner, and at the other side of the border this is not the fashion. There is another striking difference between the Ame- ricans and the Canadians. In the first-mentioned coun- ^i 1^ mt I 92 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. f try, ideas, sentiments, opinions, — in fine, knowledge, seems to be considered a common stock. The people sit with their legs across a chair-back, or place them in some other ele- vated position, and talk at their ease. On the other hand, the Canadian people seem to say, " Do you not know that I am a gentleman ? Keep your distance, sir." Then, again, the American oflftcer never forgets that he is a citizen, and the citizen does not forget that he is a man; their intercourse is perfectly easy, free, unembarrassed ; the one class never assumes an air of superiority ; the other never lowers his status^ or yields up his consciousness of equality, or his self- respect. On the other hand, the Canadian ofl&cer never removes from his standing of assumed dignity, or conde- scends to become the citizen ; he rarely amalgamates with the people ; and they, on their part, as seldom think of step- ping beyond their line, and claiming equality. These artifi- cial distinctions have a powerful and obvious effect. The manners of the Canadian population, being thus regulated, appear much more in accordance with European notions than their neighbours'. This circumstance no doubt causes the one class to be decried as vulgar, and the other to be praised as polite. The opinion, as we have said, is a mat- ter of taste. They who desire to see nature in its genu- ine tendencies, will prefer the one ; they who admire it most under the restraints of distinctions and fashion, the other. But it would be unjust in me to say, that the more unrestrained population are not polite ; for, in truth, I met with nothing but the most perfect politeness from them all. My companion, Mr. Ryerson, had desired that his horse and gig might meet us at Niagara. And being thus favoured, on the second morning we set out, and, by the help of this vehicle, visited several interesting places in the neighbourhood. Amongst the rest Drummondville, so named after General Drummond, called some years ago Lundy-Lane. At this place a dreadful battle was fought in the late war, between the British and American forces. The people have erected three or four " stands" of consider- able elevation, ascended by a flight of steps in the inside, for the purpose of showing the battle-field. We reached the top of one of these stands, kept by an old soldier, who described the course of the battle in all its details. Gene- ral Scott, the distinguished commander of the American armies in the late Mexican war, was second in com- mand at this sanguinary conflict. The old man pointed PART I. CHAPTER VII. 93 out a grave-yard, belonging to a little Presbyterian chapel, where the British artillery was planted. The Americans attacked this artillery, and took it ; the English command- er ordered a body of infantry to advance, for the purpose of re-capturing the lost guns ; and this proved successful. The Americans, not willing to lose their prize, were brought into deadly conflict with the British troops, in a charge of bayonets. The old soldier descanted on the fact, that this honu-Jidc crossing of bayonets constituted the third instance on recoi'd of such a struggle ; in all other cases, when a charge had been made, one of the parties inva- riably gave way before they came into actual collision. On this occasion the numbers were about equal ; they closed upon each other ; the steel flashed fire as the weapons of death struck ; the struggle was that of man to man, of the same blood, speaking the same language, possibly descend- ants of the same parents ; resolution, heroism, the strength of muscle, the qualities of the soul, were all brought into requisition; blood flowed in torrents, hun- dreds fell on either side ; the balance quivered, sometimes turning on one side, and sometimes on the other; the decisive moment at length came, the Americans slowly retired, and the British were left in possession of their guns, and of the ensanguined battle-field. And there they lay, — victors and vanquished, — side by side, in the little burying-ground, quietly sleeping now as brothers. We turned aside from this field of blood, to see the peace- ful fruits of industry and union, " The Niagara Suspension- bridge." There has been a mighty amount of nonsense published in the newspapers respecting this work of art. How often have the British public been gulled and amused, by articles respecting a bridge being " built over the Falls of Niagara !" The bridge in question has no more to do with the Falls of Niagara, than London-bridge, except in the fact of its closer proximity. The simple matter of fact is, that the bridge, ^'o^- \i. progress, is about a mile below; and instead o{' ^ciug " over the Falls," is designed neither more nor less than just to span the river. The following is an American account : " The Niagara suspension- bridge will span the narrow gorge of the Niagara river, between the cataract and the whirlpool, in view of both, by an arch eight hundred feet long," (how can this be called an arch ?) " forty feet wide, and two hundred and thirty feet above the water. It will be supported by sixteen wire cables, one thousand one hundred feet long, and upwards ^1 -i i 94 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. Ml'' i I of twelve inches in circumference. Its strength is to he equal to six thousand five hundred tons' tension strain ; and it is to be subjected to the most severe and conclusive tests, so as to render it safe beyond any possible contin- gency. A railroad-track will extend through the centre, uniting the roads terminating at the Falls ; there will also be carriage-ways, and a foot-path. It is to be completed by the Ist of May, 1849, at a cost of 190,000 dollars. The engineer is Charles EUet, Esq., of Philadelphia. ' The work was in progress at the time we visited the site, not, however, very far advanced. But the frightful chasm embracing the river was then crossed by — I know not what it is called — a cable suspension, moved by a windlass power, like the one at Clifton, near Bristol. In the afternoon we took a last look of the Falls ; feel- ing reluctant to leave so soon. But my companion having arranged for me to preach at St. Catherine's, a town some miles across the country, I felt obliged to obey the call of duty. This journey afforded me good opportunity of judging of the progress of agriculture in Western Cimada ; and I am compelled to srjy, that I saw no farming in the United States equal to that of this part of the country. The land is exceedingly rich and good ; and cultivation, so far as it has extended, has evidently been conducted on an excellent principle. The crops appeared promising and abundant. We arrived at our destination in time for public service, and had a good attendance. Here I beheld an unusual spectacle ; when I gave out the hymn, the whole congre- gation swung round, with the regularity of a regiment of soldiers wheeling to the right-about, — turning their backs upon me. I was startled, not knowing but the sight of an Englishman had either put them into a fright, or pro- duced some other unpleasant sensation, till told that it was the Presbyterian custom, and our people had learned it from them. We aro certainly a very learning people; but the sooner these St. Catherine folks, and all others, unlearn this vile practice, the better. On our route to Hamilton the next day, we called to dine at Mr. Edwards's, the brother-in-law of my travelling friend. Here I had an opportunity of seeing a farm-house and family of the better class of Canadian farmers. Every thing wore an air of great comfort, abundance, and happiness. The house itself, a wooden one, was very commodious, well-furnished, and, in some PART I. CHAPTER VII. 95 sort, elegant. The land around appeared exceedingly rich and fertile, bearing abundant crops. "We were hos- pitably and kindly entertained, having for dinner the accustomed tip-top fare when friends of the first consi- deration are entertained, — a sucking pig. After a pleasant journey, (for the roads are much better in Canada than in the States,) we arrived in Hamilton, and I found myself happily lodged in the family of my kind companion, Mr. Ryerson. The Sunday brought with it much peace and enjoyment. I preached in the morning at Dundas, a large town, four miles from Hamilton, to a plain, country congregation ; and in the evening at Hamilton. It is pleasant to find the sweet rest of the sabbath in these journeyings, excitements, and converse Avith men : it brings one to God, and reminds of heaven. Hamilton, named after the first settler on the spot, is a fine and improving place; one of the finest towns, in some respects, if not the finest, in Canada. It is beautifully situ- ated at the head of Lake Ontario ; is a place of much trade, being placed in a position to enjoy the navigatioa of the lakes, and to obtain an easy access to the United States. A railroad, now in progress, will connect it with the west, so that its prospects of progress are great. A rising hill, called "the Mountain," forms a beautiful back-ground to the city, the slope of which is even now partly occupied by splendid residences, commanding a magnificent view of the lake. This hill has little pretensions to the name "mountain ;" but being the only elevation of any consider- ation in Western Canada, the definite article is employed. This whole ridge is capable of being used for building pur- poses ; and, no doubt, in time, both its ascent and level plain above will be covered with the habitations of men. "We ascended this mountain, and obtained a most beautiful prodpcct of the lake and country around. The locality is ornamented by a tiny castle, the residence of Sir Alan M'Nab, the only native titled gentleman in the provinces. The place is ill situated, in the vicinity of a swamp, and the inmates are said to be exposed to that constant conse- quence of such malaria, the ague. !l ( .' <^s 90 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. I* I Chap. VIII. — Ontario — Toronto — nr. Ryerson — Sir F. B. Head — Bishop Slrachan — The City — Departure for Kingston — Mr. Robinson — Mr. Bolton — Cot}urg College — Kingston — Pass up the Bay of Quint i — Belleville — The Canada Cotiference — The Union — Return to Kingston. After spending IMonday in this agreeable town, we stfirted on Tuesday morning for Toronto, in a fine steamer, down the lake. The passage was enchanting ; every thing conspired to make it agreeable. The day was splendid, the lake unruffled, the company pleasant, the shore fine, and blooming with a luxuriant vegetation. The next morning we arrived at Toronto, and I was met at the landing-place by my dear friend Dr. Ryerson, who conducted me to his own house, where I lodged during my sojourn in this city. I was now at home with one whom I had long known, and greatly esteemed. We talked of old times, old friends, old troubles and misun- derstandings ; and could now well aiford to rejoice in the altered state of things, the union of the two bodies having been effected ; and, especially, in the settled peace of the Methodist church in Canada. I found my friend in possession of the office of chief superintendent of the Government-school system, now in vigorous progress ; an office somewhat analogous to that occupied in this country by Dr. Kaye Shuttleworth. He was fully engaged by the duties of this post, was much and zealously devoted to the cause, and, I have no doubt, conducted its business with great ability. He had pre- vailed upon the authorities to allow the old government- house to be occupied as a training school. This government- house had been celebrated by Sir Francis Head, as the place of his quiet slumbers, when the rebel Mackenzie and his American sympathizers were approaching the city in battle array; and where he developed the wonderful resources of his civil and military genius, and, as if by magic, drove the rebel forces reeling, if not into the lake, yet back again to the opposite shore. This was a rare man, this Sir Francis ! However, one would like to know, whether there hap- pened to be some thoughtful military officer awake, when Sir Francis was so snugly asleep ? whether the science and strategy of war had any thing to do with the mira- culous magic which drov the rebels back ? whether Sir Francis, not being a military man, shared the toils and dangers of the non-military inhabitants of the city, as a PART I. CHAPTER VIII. 97 lence aira- Sir and as a volunteer? Be these things as they may, the house in ^vhich all the wonderful feats of this gentleman were con cocted and performed, we now found to be occupied for very different purposes. It is no longer a place for the manufacture of bulletins and missiles of war, but a school for training messengers of peace ; it no longer witnesses such heroics as were played oflP by Sir Francis, but fur- nishes a quiet home for the development of such faculties as the youth of Canada may happen to possess, to enable them to benefit their fellow-countrymen. These schools are truly national, not denominational. The system is very much like the British, or Borough- road, scheme : the Bible, in the authorized version, is employed daily, and the more specific teaching left in the hands of Ministers and parents. Schools are planted through the whole country, so that the children of the poor have now the means of obtaining a good education. The moral and religious advantages of this must be immense ; and, in due time, will tell most beneficially on the state of the people. An educated population is growing up ; their improved intelligence and morals will blend with general society, and the e£Fects be seen in all their ramifi- cations and interests. The District-Meeting was sitting in Toronto ; so that I had the opportunity of judging of the state of things in the Canadian body, so far as they were developed by the proceed- ings of this assembly. Poverty pressed upon the brethren ; their deficiencies in many of the Circuits were considerable, which they had not the means of meeting; and the preachers were obliged to bear the loss themselves, which they did without murmuring. Their religious state was found to be good ; they had increased in numbers almost every where, and progress was apparent in every depart- ment. On Sunday I had the happiness to preach twice, in Ade- laide and Richmond-street chapels, to spiritual and lively congregations. Whilst at this city. Dr. Ryerson took me, amongst other visits, to pay our respects to the lord bishop of Toronto, Dr. Strachan, — a Lowland Scotchman, one would say, by his stature ; possessing all the shrewd- ness and tact of his countrymen ; a clever man of busi- ness, having long had much influence in public afimrs. We found he had lost none of the brogue of the north ; and to listen to the sounds of his voice one would have supposed the place of interview to have been Glasgow p pr^ 98 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. i f i 'J instead of Toronto. We were very politely received, and, after half an hour's conversation on general questions, took our leave. Toronto is beautifully situated on Lake Ontario ; the country is level, but free from swamp, and perfectly dry; the city is new, but there are many excellent buildings ; and King-street is about the finest in Ame- rica : the shops of this street are not stores, but finished and decorated in English style ; and, in appearance, would be no disgrace to Itegent- street, if placed by its side. After spending four or five days at Toronto, we took our departure for Kingston on Monday morning. On board the steamer we met Chief-Justice Robinson, and Mr. Bolton, late Chief-Justice of Newfoundland, now a resident in Toronto, and one of the members of the House of Assembly. These gentlemen belonged to diifer- ent grades in politics ; Mr. Robinson being at the head of the Conservatives, and the leading member of the late Government ; whilst ]\[r. Bolton belongs to the Libe- rals, and supports the present party in power. They were going on circuit, the one as a judge and the other as counsel. We found them very agreeable men, Chief- Justice Robinson being evidently a man of first-rate intel- lect and mental power. Mr. Bolton, whom I met again on board the " America," on my return to this country, complained much of the treatment he had met with in connexion with his office of chief justice in Newfound- land. He had quarrelled with the popish power on that island ; and in the dispute, the home-government, in Lord Melbourne's time, had, as usual, taken part, as he said, with the Papists. He was obstructed in the dis- charge of his duties by open violence ; the popish bishop oflPered to help him out of his difficulties if he would allow his official influence and commands to pass through his hands to the peoi)le ; by this, proposing to put the judge's office into commission, the bishop being the chief commissioner. Tiiis he indignantly spurned, and deter- mined that the law should be enforced by the civil, the constitutional power. This brought the judge into imme- diate collision with the popish party ; and disputes, agita- tions, and riots ensued. He was in danger of personal violence ; and his wife, a Romanist herself, took sides with her husband, and heroically sheltered him from his enemies. The issue was dismissal from office. The civil power, the constitution, the flag of Queen Yictoria, was PART I. CHAPTER VIII. 99 was made, as was always the case in those times, to succumb to popish violence. Mr. Bolton could never extort from the home Government, either by personal application, or by getting a friend to push the matter in the Commons, any explanation of the cause of his dismissal, though he knew perfectly, that it was done to gratify, to conciliate, the Papists. His notions of the Romanists on the one hand, and of their friends and patrons, the then British Government, on the other, were any thing but favourable to either. Towards evening we reached Coburg, where these gen- tlemen left us. The captain had the politeness to remain longer than his usual time, to allow us to run up and take a hasty glance at Victoria College. Nature could not furnish a finer site. The building stands on an eminence behind the town, commanding a most glorious view of the lake and surrounding country. It was vacation-time : we did not, consequently, see the young men. It is a fine institution, and promises to be of great benefit to the Methodist church in Canada. After regaling our sight with this lovely scene, we hastened on board, and were soon again in motion : such is life. We arrived at Kingston the next morning, and hoped to go on immediately to Belleville, our destination, and the town where the Canadian Conference was appointed to be held. Our expectations, however, were doomed to be disappointed. A steamer had been engaged to take us ; but, behold, on our arrival we found, to our conster- nation, that a telegraphic communication had been sent, countermanding the order; and the vessel having been despatched to Montreal, no other could be obtained. I had risen in great pain and misery, and was obliged to go to a friend's house, and lie on the sofa all day. In conse- quence of this disaster, I had little opportunity of seeing Kingston. At night, an hour or two before dark, we began our voyage up the Bay of Quinti, one of the loveliest pieces of water in Canada, and surrounded by fine and beauti- fully wooded banks. Our steamer was a miserably poor afiair ; our accommodations indifferent ; the night wet and cold ; and, to complete the discomfort, a number of our brethren placed themselves just against the door of my cabin, supposing I was asleep, and indulged themselves in conversation till about one o'clock. Altogether, it was a most miserable night. We arrived at Belleville F 2 ](J0 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. 1 i '1! m V hi.. towards nine o'clock; and, as soon as -we had finished breakfast, proceeded to open the Conference, and begin business. Most of the brethren had arrived, and we mustered more than a hundred men. The business was chiefly routine, and not of much public interest. The union had been effected the year before, by the good-will and co- operation of nearly all parties, but chiefly by the pru- dence and indefatigable exertions of Dr. Alder. He laboured at this laudable task with great ability and per- severance, and happily succeeded in his exertions. In all such conditions of the church as obtained in Canada, there must, of course, be hostile elements, — passions and prejudices called forth by former antagonistic operations ; things in themselves of little consideration are elevated, in the opinion of disputants, to the importance and dignity of principles ; imaginary interests, honour, and consistency are considered as at stake ; and, moreover, the separate mo-, cments of the parties will be thought by themselves to embody the cause of God. These difficulties stood in the way of the union so happily effected. When the good men — for they are good men — of both parties came to con- sider the question dispassionately, their judgment was con- vinced, and their prejudices so far gave way, as to lead them to assent to the proposition of union. But it may easily be seen t . '^ it would require a skilful hand to manage these clashii rests, and bring all parties into a state of har- mony. Jiy the good providence of God, this experienced pilot was found in Dr. Alder : his knowledge of the men, his acquaintance with the work, his influence in the country, — all came in to aid his excellent judgment ; and a work was accomplished on which he and all parties will have cause to reflect with great satisfaction. To heal divisions, to remove stumbling-blocks, to bring bre- thren estranged from each other by misunderstandings into a state of unity, — must surely be considered a good work, and in agreement with the entire spirit of th<^ gospel. We heard little on the subject at Conference, except exultations that the measure had been effected. The few preachers who had expressed opposing sentiments the year before, were now not only satisfied, but became zeal- ous eulogists of the measure. We heard not a word of dissatisfaction from any portion of the people ; though I have understood that since, on the removal of their pastor, I* 1 PART I. CHAPTER VIII. 101 an Englishman in connexion with the British Conference, the people in one place have taken occasion to revolt, and some have left the hody. On the whole, the union may be considered as complete, and to work well. It is to be hoped, that the issue will be seen in the extension of true religion, and the revival of the work of God. I found that many, probably one-half, of the preachers are Englishmen. They are laborious and diligent in their work, are men of good sense and sound piety, much attached to all the distinctive characteristics of Method- ism, alive to the progress and prosperity of the work in which they .ire engaged, and prepared to endure much privation for the accomplishment of the object of their desires and prayers. They have already done much iu the cultivation of Western Canada ; their chapels, schools, and religious institutions are numerous, and on a respect- able scale ; their Circuits pervade the entire country, embracing the back settlements and outposts, as well as the cities and larger towns : the character and moral influence of the church is such as to command the respect of the entire community; and as population progresses, and the resources of the country are developed, this people must, in the ordinary course of events, become an increas- ingly great and influential body. We closed our business on Thursday, June loth, at noon ; thus accomplishing our work in a week and one day. It required close attention, much evening labour, no superfluity of talk, good order, and brotherly kindness, to bring this about : all of which were happily observed. Many of the good brethren seemed surprised at them- selves when they had done; they imagined the thing impossible. We broke up, as we had continued together, in great harmony and concord. For myself, I left them with unfeigned regret and entire afl«ction ; and they will never be forgotten, they will never cease to be objects of my most cordial esteem and regard. It had been my happiness to be entertained at the house of Mr. Flint, a member of the Assembly, and a most kind-hearted man. Our pleasure was, however, in some measure abated by the circumstance of his being afilicted with ague, which came upon him at regular periods of the day, and produced the most depressing t)rostration. Mrs. Flint is a most caarming and excellent ady, and did her utmost to make our abode in the family agreeable and happy. From these kind friends we parted 102 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. ri; with sincere regret, and prayers for their continued hap- piness. Nothing is so pleasant as to recount kindnesses ; but ■when all are kind, it is difficult to select instances without appearing invidious. But I must confess, in parting with my Canadian brethren, that I should be most ungrateful were I not to say, that from Mr. John Ryerson, in a long journey through the States as well as Canada, by resi- dence and fellowship at Pittsburgh, at Hamilton, at Belle- ville, down the St. Lawrence, to the very end of our inter- course, — I received nothing but the most cordial acts of kindness ; not, I am sure, so much on my own account, as to betoken his respect for tho Methodist Conference in this country. Our friend, the Rev. Enoch Wood, Super- intendent of Missions, residing at Toronto, I found to be a very able man ; and universally respected for his excellent character, ability, and devotedness to the service of his divine Master. It was, moreover, refreshing to meet once more with our old brethren and acquaintance, Peter Jones and John Sunday. They hold on their way, retain all the freshness of religion, devote themselves to the work of God amongst their countrymen, and do much good. John Sunday made us a Missionary speech with as much spirit as ever, heightened by the interest he felt,— and caused us to feel, — from the fact that he was brought to God at Belleville, in the chapel in which he was then speaking for his heavenly Master. Another noble evangelist, whose name is perfectly familiar to our people in this country, also attended the Conference, — the Rev. William Case ; a man of beautiful simplicity, fine sense, great moderation and charity, fervent piety, and most abundant and useful labours. There are men in Canada destined, as I hope, to perpetuate and carry out tr a blessed consummation the good work already existing on a wide and noble basis. We embarked on board the steamer about four o'clock on the day we finished our Conference business, and made our way rapidly down the Bay of Quinti. The daylight remained for many hours, so that I obtained a pro- longed view both of land and water. The whole scenery was most enchanting : the banks were covered with unbroken forests, with rich blue foliage, bending to the water's edge ; and were studded, here and there, with flourishing villages and fertile farms. At the close of day we landed, and found a fine little town, situated in a singular hap- PART 1. CIlAPTEll IX. 103 nook formed by an inlet of the bay, and apparently lost in the midst of the forest. The night was passed in tran- quillity ; and early in tlie morning we found ourselves at Kingston. I now saw a little more of this city : it is situ- ated in a most lovely locality, and it may be fairly doubted, whether any inland town in the world can vie with it, in either its astonishing confluence of waters, or, in some respects, beautiful scenery. IMaced at the ex- tremity of Lake Ontario, and at the head of the St. Lawrence, Kingston commands the navigation of both. By the river, it is connected with the Atlantic, and conse- quently with Europe ; and by the lakes, with the interior of Canada and the United States. Its n)ilitary strength, moreover, gives it the complete command of the channel, and of the country ; and in any war with America, it must be considered as the key of the St. Lawrence, and will cost Jonathan a severe struggle to master. We hope this tug of war may never arise ; if it should, the fate of Kingston must have much influence in settling the ques- tion, as to who shall be masters of Canada. Chap. IX. — The St. Lawrence — The Thousand Islands — TJte Jtapids — Montreal — The City — The Cathedral — Tfie Metliodist Chapel — Storm — The Earl of Elgin — The Romanists — Passage to Quebec — The City — The Plains of Abraham — General ]Volfe — FortiJicQ' tions — A rural Rejjast — Falls of Montmorenci — The French /la- bitans— Reflections on Canada. Our steamer for ]\Iontreal was awaiting our arrival ; and after some time we got on board, and were soon off again, for fresh scenes and a new destination. AVe at once got into the current of the St. Lawrence, and found ourselves in the midst of, I should think, the most perfect fairy-scene in the world, — the Thousand Islands. These islands are so called, not because they have been counted, — a definite being put for an indefinite number. They extend, from the singular union of waters by the termination of the Lake Ontario, the Bay of Quinti, and the head of the St. Lawrence, for a space of thirty miles. They are of every size and form, though never attaining any great eleva- tion ; and are all covered with trees and shrubs. Our pas- bige lay in the midst of this wonderful group, through which we threaded our course safely, though it needed the most skilful pilotage. Some of the islands appeared to occupy a considerable space on the bosom of the flood ; but one iso- lated little thing, just standing in our course, and requiring 104 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. I ! 1 ■'ii ,1 il some tact to avoid, looked exactly like a flower-pot, with one plant growing in its centre, of diminutive size, reaching only the elevation which its scanty soil could nourish. So true is nature to her laws ! Had this tiny shrub risen higher, the winds would soon have levelled and sent it floating in the water. The day was clear, the sun bright, the winds soft and genial : could any thing more perfectly remind one of Paradise than this scene ? No ruined castles, it is true, graced these islands ; no rising turrets, covered with ivy, mantled these spots of primitive beauty ; no baronial tra- ditions, no deserted halls, no banqueting-rooms, once the scenes of revelry, of love, and of revenge, were here open to inspection. All was simple, primeval ; — nature clothed in her own attire of leafy loveliness. Not a building, not a cottage, was seen. No ascending smoke, no signs of Imman life, no bleating animals, no ploughman's note, no stroke of the woodman's axe, no labours of the spade or hoe, were any where visible ; silence and repose reigned in these islands, — which, in ancient times, would have been peopled, in the imagination of poets, with nymphs and goddesses, —without one interrupting sound, except the whispers of the wind. Nature lay undisturbed in her own soft bed ; cradled in the waters ; rocked by the elements ; and soothed by the rippling stream as it passed along. This simple, primitive state of things has always been, from the time when God first spoke creation into existence; or, cer- tainly, from the period when, some convulsion breaking off these fragments from the main land, he stretched out his hand to place them in their present position, to show his love of beauty, and teach mankind lessons of grateful admiration. One only inhabitant has been known to dwell on these islands, a sort of freebooter, who made them the head- quarters of his piracy for some time. He shifted his abode as occasion dictated, in order to avoid detection ; and, sallying forth upon passers-by, feeble enough to tempt his cupidity, plundered them of their effects, and then hastened to his lurking places in the islands, to enjoy the spoil. He was at last detected, and is now expiating his offences in some distant prison, or living at large with the brand of infamy upon his forehead, as the violator of the sanctities of a spot, hallowed to innocence, peace, and beauty. In the couise of the day we passed down the Rapids, rendered classical by Tom Moore's celebrated " Canadian PART I. CHAPTER IX. 105 k Boat Song." They are perfectly frightfiil. The descent is considerable, the river narrow, the current impetuous, the rocks turning the stream into foaming and dashing fury, like the waters of the sea on a shelving shore. A perfect knowledge of the channel is necessary in the pilot, a keen eye, a strict and vigilant watchfulness : if any of these should be wanting, or an accident in any way happen ; if the ship, from any cause, should refuse to obey the helm, in the smallest degree; destruction would be inevitable. In one place the bend of the river is so abrupt, and the angle so acute, that one would suppose the vessel must go headlong against the shore. Such, however, was the skill of our pilot, that at this point we suddenly wheeled round with the current, and passed safely the whole course of the Rapids. We lay to for the night a few miles above Montreal, having other Rapids to pass, and the daylight not serving. Early on Saturday morning we were again in motion, and passed the frightful flood of agitated waters. No vessel can pass up these Rapids ; and to facilitate the navigation, the Welland Canal has been constructed. A noble work this! Vessels of gteat tonnage can ascend this canal, and by these artificial means an easy communication is secured up the river to the Lakes. About nine miles from Mon- treal, we were met by several friends, who conducted us by railroad to the city. One of these friends, the Honour- able Jap;8S Ferrier, took me to his own house, Avhere I was domiciled during my stay in the place. I found with this fine family a very happy home. It was never my pleasure to meet with a more perfect Christian household than this. Parents and children seemed to be actuated Vy the same spirit ; the one by the most tender but judicious paternal affection, and the young people with devout and deferential filial regard. I was immediately conducted to see the curiosities of the place. Montreal wears the appearance of the olden times; the stately and majestic cathedral being its chief ornament. We went first of all to inspect this building ; and found that its interior, ornaments, and pictures, in the usual style of the popish church, did no discredit to its external magnificence. Various superstitions and follies were then, and had long been, going on. Amongst the rest, a bell, said to be heavier, and every way larger, than " Great Tom " of Lincoln, was suspended by machinery, employed for the purpose, waiting to be baptized the day F 5 1()6 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. 'I'y ;y I Mr. Ferrier took me *or a scenery was most lovely !l following; which ceremony was performed with great pomp, attended by immense crowds of people. Nothing is done without pay in popery ; and all who witness this baptism of the bell were obliged to pay for their devo- tions or amusement. A beautiful hill is seen in the background of the city, as usual, covered with fine shrubs and trees. The ascent is filled with houses, — some, very large and splendid gentlemen's villas. Around this hill ~" ~" " " ride in the evening, and the We passed the country resi- dence of the Governor-General ; no very splendid place, but finely situated, in perfect seclusion. On Sunday I preached twice, — in the evening in the large chapel. This is by far the most spacious, beautiful, and splendid cliape^ I have seen in JMethodism, at home or abroad ; and the congregation corresponds. It is quite as great as any of the Yorkshire chapels, and much more elegant, and well furnished. The day was, as I think, the hottest I ever lived through, the thermometer being about a hundred and forty in the sun. During the evening service a thunuer-storm came on, with over- whelming torients of rain. The thunder was so loud, that I could scarcely hear my own voice ; and this lasted a good Pi rt of the sermon. The lightning was 'f the same terrific nature ; and home of the lower windows abutting against high ground, about level with themselves, the rain rushed through in torrents ; so much so, as greatly to wet and discompose the dress of many of the females sitting in that part of the building. Altogether, it was a most distressing season. The following day we waited upon the Governor- General, at Government-house, in the city. In the ante- room we found a fine old popish priest, waiting for an audience. This was a most intelligent man, frank, open, afi^able ; the very opposite of the Jesuit class. We con- versed freely with this priest, on various matters, and were pleased to find, that a bad system had not succeeded in defacing the characteristics of a noble nature. On being called into the presence of his Excellency, we were very courteously received. Lord Elgin is, in appearance, bearing, and demeanour^ a fine specimen of the British peer. We had, however, in him, a clear evidence of the nature of the responsible Government principle, as under- stood in Canada; and as it is being carried out by the British authorities. He could not be prevailed upon to In PART 1. CHAPTER IX. 107 give any answer to our inquiries on the business we had come upon, nor even so much as give an opinion. He told us he would lay the matter before his council ; and we could get no further than this. My companions were astonished, and not much pleased at this; not under- standing how a Governor-General should not himself settle a question of the nature proposed, and at once decide the whole case. For myself, I confess, that I was neither surprised nor displeased, well understanding, that if the principles of the British constitution are to be carried out literally in Canada, the representative of the sovereign cannot act as if he were the representative of an absolute monarch; he must take counsel with his ministers, council, or whatever else his advisers may be called. This principle, in one form or other, no doubt, had much to do in paving the way for the severance of the colonies, now constituting the United States, from the mother country. Its adoption may have the same effect in Canada ; but how it is to be got rid of, in the present state of things, or whether desirable, if it could, are diffi- cult questions to solve. In the present state of the world, absolute or irresponsible power is out of the question, at any rate, in regions which have been blessed with British rule. With a view to ascertain the fact, I examined the names over the shops and places of business, both in Montreal and afterwards in Quebec, and found that they were nearly all English and Scotch. The bulk of the population being French, it is clear from this, that our countrymen have pushed the French inhabitants into the obscure parts of these cities, and obtained for themselves the command of the chief trade and commerce of the country. This, indeed, is notoriously the case. The original founders of these cities are now seen inhabiting small dwellings in the obscure and meaner streets, keeping little fruit and huck- sters' shops, and other trades of a similar description. They are reported as very inert, improvident, and careless ; they even alienate their lands without much concern, though naturally addicted to a rural life ; and, like the Irish, seem to claim kindred with the soil on which they have been bred. They appear, in themselves, a very harmless race, are altogether under the influence of their political chiefs and priests, and, consequently, easily excited one way or other, and never think of acting for themselves. Education, and, indeed, information of every kind, is at a very low ! ■! I -it II ill 108 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. ebb amongst them ; and I was toW by the highest autho- rity in the country, on this subject, that it was extremely difficult to get them to employ the Government- grant for educational purposes ; the treasurer always having a large sum of unappropriated money belonging to them in hand. It will be in the recollection of many, that Lord Mel- bourne's Government restored the island of Montreal to the order or society of St. Sulpice, to whom it was originally granted by the French king ; but in the midst of the con- fusions of the world, arising out of the French revolution, the society becoming extinct, or from some other cause, it had been alienated to the crown. The society having been revived in the general resuscitation of popery, the right had been restored, in the desire to conciliate popery, so that the fee-simple of the whole island now belongs to this ])ody. I was told, on good authority, that, on every transfer of property, by fine, or the renewal of lease, the priesthood obtain a sum equal to eight shillings in the pound, as their share in the transaction. The island being large ; the city now being made the seat of government ; the commercial transactions of the place being extensive ; and, altogether, this being the most flourishing port in Canada; it results that the revenue derived from these Sources is enormous. Certainly, popery presents here the aspect of great wealth, and evidently occupies a command- ing position. Their fetes far transcend, in splendour and cost, those of any other country, in the present day ; and while the church of Rome seems in a state of decay every where else, it is in great life and prosperity under the British dominion in Canada, But little impression has ever been made upon it by Protestantism ; and it is evidently as undisturbed and secure in its supremacy, as if the country had remained under the sway of the Bourbons. The industry of the British people, in the mean time, by its restored title to the proprietorship of the island, tends to enrich the church and build up its power ; every shilling which is expended in improvements, as the fruit of British enterprise and industry, puts, as we see, more than one third into the pockets of the priests. 1 found also that the Jesuits were earnestly urging their claim to their forfeited possessions. When the society became extinct, they, of course, lost their rights of property in the country. They were in possession of numerous houses, large tracts of land, and privileges of various sorts, when in their days of power and glory. ••MBic?" ^ PART I. CHAPTER IX. 109 I "When in Quebec, I lodged exactly opposite a large build- ing, once a college of Jesuits, now employed as barracks. The nature of their influence, the extent of their posses- sions, (for they must have enjoyed pay and food, as well as lodging,) and their numbers, may be pretty accurately judgea of by this building. It is, I should believe, large enough to hold a regiment of soldiers ; and, supposing Jesuits would require accommodation superior to the army, it would certainly accommodate, even in that case, not less than five or six hundred. Whether, in the pro- gress of conciliation, — for so many years followed by the British Government,— this Jesuits' college and their other possessions will ever be restored, it is impossible to say. The local government is, at present, resisting the claim ; and I read, when in the country, very able articles from the pen of one of the chief functionaries against conceding these claims. This is probably the security of the coun- try. Society at large, having an interest in preserving the present settlement of property, and in keeping themselves free from the dominion and yoke of the Society of Jesus, may possibly be able to resist the encroachments sought to be made ; whereas if the matter were entirely in the hands of the home- government, nothing would be more likely than Jesuitical success, and for the world to see them again installed in the college at Quebec, as well as enjoy- ing all other kinds of property and power, — now enhanced a thousand-fold by Protestant enterprise and labour. The steamers only pass between Montreal and Quebec by night ; and on Monday evening I embarked with Mr. Ferrier, Dr. Richey, the Rev. John Jenkins, and other friends, for the latter place. We had a pleasant night- trip, sitting up late to see Mr. Ferrier off, who had to land at Three Rivers, for the purpose of attending to business in connexion with some iron-founding operations; the only works of the sort, as I understood, in the coun- try. Mr. Feri'ier, and a fine old gentleman, one of the owners of the steamer in which we were passing down the river, had a long debate respecting steam navigation. This latter gentleman I found, in connexion with his father, was the first to employ steam power on the St. Lawrence, and had been very successful in his vocation. I learned from this conversation many things respecting American steamers of which I had before been ignorant. I had seen that these vessels possessed amazing space, especially on deck, giving them the means of provid- !;i iSi ii ]10 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. ing a splendid saloon and beautiful state-rooms by their sides for passengers, and an equally fine prome- nade on the outside, where I had often sat or walked, enjoying the fresh air, and looking at the surrounding country. I found now that this space was gained by projections from the sid,:s of the vessel in the form of beams or spars, and on these projections a platform con- siderably wider than the vessel itself was obtained. But was there no danger of the steamer, in case of a squall arising, turning over on her beam-ends ? To obvitite this, it seems, an instrument, on the principle of the cork- jacket employed by amateurs in swimming, is placed on each side ; so that, in case the vessel reels, she is righted again by this instrument. It was told me that by the use of these appliances, it is impossible for any vessel in any weather to be capsized. The argument of these two clever and experienced disputants turned on the possibility of crossing the Atlantic in one of these flat-bottomed steamers so guarded; Mr. Ferrier taking the affirmative side, and our other friend the negative. All manner of science was brought to bear on the points in dispute; and whether it might be more profitable to employ this species of ship, I know not ; but think, from what I heard, that it is possible to cross the ocean in one of these flat-bottomed American river-vessels, sufficiently guarded by the cork-jacket. Our countrymen need not be surprised if they see, some day, in the Mersey, a grand, flat-bottomed steamer, with a saloon as magnificent as the drawing-room of a palace, and state-rooms as conve- nient and beautiful as the sleeping apartments of a first- rate hotel. We reached our destination in good time in the morn- ing. Quebec is unique in its appearance within and with- out ; there is nothing equal to it in America. Like New- York and Pittsburgh, it stands on the point formed by two rivers ; though not, like them, meeting in terminis. The majestic St. Lawrence is one of these rivers, and still rolls along its course ; and the other is the St. Charles, emptying itself" into the greater stream from the north-west, and thus forming the triangular point on which the city stands. It wears, in its general aspect, an appearance of great antiquity, quite unlike any other place on the conti- nent. The streets are narrow, irregular, and steep ; like many of the old seaports on our coast, or those of France, on the opposite side of the Channel. The ecclesiastical .■ d by PAllT I. CHAPTER IX. Ill (< buildings of all sorts — cathedrals, (for there are two, Popish and Protestant,) churches, convents, hospitals, Hotels de Dieu, and all the rest — are seen to predominate over every thing secular, — like some old cathedral town Popish country. This feature, together with the in a military air of the place, causes Quebec to wejir an aris- tocratic and feudal appearance, perfectly dissimilar to the trading and commercial aspect of all other places in Ame- rica, whether belonging to the States, or to Great Britain. As soon as possible after our arrival, the friends had two or three carriages ready to convey us round the city, under the projecting rocks overhanging the road, to Wolfe's Cove, — up the heights leading to the fortifications, — to the Plains of Abraham, — and to Cape Diamond. It must be understood that the angle referred to before, formed by the two rivers, terminates, not in a slope lead- ing down to the waters, but abruptly, in a prodigious rock three hundred and fifty feet above the level of the river ; and seeming at a distance to overhang it, but in reality leaving space for roads and buildings. This culminating point is called Cape Diamond ; and, whilst standing on this elevation, on the right flows the St. Lawrence, and on the left the St. Charles, whilst the space immediately in the rear forms the Plains of Abraham. From this elevated region, there is no descent at all, the rock is next to per- pendicular ; but farther on, both towards the St. Law- rence and the St. Charles, the ground, in some places gra- dually, but often abruptly, descends ; this descent, how- ever, admits of roads, winding round the mountain, by which the summit is reached. I am thus particular, for a reason which must now be explained. When this city was taken by the immortal Wolfe, he, by some miraculous means, in the night, pushed his fleet, with his army and artillery on board, from below, past this Cape Diamond, with its terrible fortifications, unobserved by the enemy, and reached a part of the hill where an ascent was possible, now called Wolfe's Cove. His troops immediately climbed up the sides of the eleva- tion ; and by prodigious exertions dragged up several pieces of ordnance. When the next day dawned, the French generalfound, to his astonishment, the British army, with artillery, formed, in line of battle, on the Heights of Abraham. I was conducted by my friends through the whole of this scene. We traced the course of the fleet up the river, its anchorage, the place where the troops dis- * 112 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. embarked, the track of the artillery, of the soldiers up the mountain ; and I, for myself, determined to climb up in the path which tradition has marked as the iden- tical line which was trodden by the immortal hero, who added, by his genius and bravery on this occasion, an em- pire to his country's possessions. When at the top we, in our i/wmilitary and wwprofessional way, endeavoured to trace the course of events, and believe we obtained a pretty accurate notion of the battle. The issue is known. The spot where AYolfe received the tidings, " They flee," and then expired, is marked by a mean and paltry monu- mental stone. I clung with intense feeling to this spot ; looking again and again to the place where the destinies of a mighty country were fixed, by the decrees of God, in the death-throes of the successful instrument. There are events in history which turn the tide of national interests ; form the epochs of time ; raise the monuments of great destinies ; pillars written upon by the finger of God, in .he annals of the world, as the data of nationalities : and that little monumental stone on the summit of the Plains of Abraham is one of these mementoes. We went from this scene to examine the fortifications. These are denominated the Gibraltar of America, and are certainly the strongest on the continent. But they are not much like Gibraltar. The celebrated batteries of the latter fortress are pretty familiar to my recollection, and greatly surpass their supposed type at Quebec. One would say, however, that these are perfectly impregnable, having been much strengthened since they came into the hands of the English. We went to the Cape Diamond rock ; and, standing on its elevation, obtained a most mag- nificent view of the country around. The glorious St. Lawrence rolls majestically at the foot of the mountain, and the ships in the harbour looked most diminutive, their masts reaching but a very short way towards the point where we stood. The country is seen to a prodigious distance by reason of the clearness of the atmosphere ; the mountains and plains alternately stretching in fine pla- teaux, or rearing their heads to the clouds. The scene also presents to view, what is scarcely ever seen in America, a finished picture. The land is well cultivated, and herds of cattle were grazing quietly in the meadows; while the whole country was dotted with the whitewashed cot- tages of the French habitans ; and here and there through the landscape a country church reared its beauti- B^ »«5*saikn PAllT X. CHAPTER tX. 113 ful spire in the midst of the rural scene. The river was seen to an immense distance meandering its course to- wards the sea. Altogether, the view from Cape Diamond is one of the most splendid imaginable, and far surpassed any thing I had seen in America. "Western Canada is, with ihe exception of what tliey call " the Mountain," per- fectly level ; but this part of the country is full of lofty ridges, often rising to the elevation and ruggedness of real mountain scenery, with bold and abrupt peaks, lost in the clouds. We were taken to dine in the country, a distance of four or five miles, with a fine old Methodist friend, origin- ally from Guernsey. The table was spread under the umbrageous branches of a lovely tree, on a lawn near the house; and on this spot, protected from the rays of the sun, we partook of our social repast in great harmony and joy. This was a bright oasis in the desert of life, an innocent and happy meeting of Christian friends, favoured to see each other once, never to meet again. This house possesses some traditional importance, as it was chosen by the famous American general, Arnold, for his head- quarters, and where he himself lodged, in his mad expedi- tion against Quebec. This man afterwards turned traitor against his country; and it was in connexion with his perfidy, in delivering up Sandy Point to the English, that the brave and accomplished Colonel Andre, employed by the British general to negociate the surrender of that place, fell into the hands of the Americans, and lost his life. Strange things happen in the course of one's existence. I had been reading, on my voyage out, a very minute account of these transactions ; and now it was my lot to dine, not in the house of Arnold's head-quarters, but under a tree by its side, which he had often looked upon, and, if he had not dined under its shady branches, had pro- bably been protected from the storm. Having to preach at night, our sojourn could not be long. We hastened back in time for the service, and had a fine congregation. Here I met with quite a phenomenon in Canada, a Presby- terian minister, who, in the midst of the general disrup- tion, had adhered to the old kirk. I found him a good, moderate, and truly sensible man. One day only remained for Quebec. In good time, my kind friends and myself set out to visit the Falls of Montmorenci, a distance of nine miles. By this journey I had an opportunity of seeing a little of the state of thq \ 4 114 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. French people in the country, We called .it a small inn for refreshment, and found it very comfortable ; but as different from the same sort of habitation in our own coun- try as possible. The farms seemed small, the cottages cor- responding; but the people were clean, tidy, and apparently very contented and happy. They are a primitive race, remaining in much the same state as they were in the time of their ancestors' coming to the country. British rule causes no innovation in their manners and habits; they retain the use of their own language exclusively ; and are perfectly docile to the priesthood, and obedient to the church. The difference betwixt the Anglo-Saxon race and these people of French descent, is most glaring. The one is a restless, grumbling, thrifty, and ambitious set, Avherever found ; the other almost as stationary as the nomadic tribes of the East. Even Popery fails to amalgamate the Irish and French races. They cannot agree to say mass together. The antipathy of the French to the Irish, is equal to the antipathy of poor Pat to the English. The rude, vociferous, agitating spirit of the sons of the Green Isle, cannot be endured by the quiet Canadians; and the priests are compelled to part them. There is a sort of dual Popery in Quebec ; the Irish being obliged to keep to themselves, and perform their religious duties in their own peculiar way of roaring riot ; whilst the gentle hahitans are left to walk in the footsteps of their quiet predecessors. The Falls of Mont- morenci are very fine, and the descent of the waters is greater than at Niagara ; but after beholding that wonder of nature, they appear very insignificant as a whole. In this country they would be a prodigy, and attract universal attention ; but in the midst of the stupendous waters of America, they look like a little rill, a mountain torrent, falling from a lofty eminence. We hastened back to town in time for a hasty dinner and a cordial farewell ; and then an embarcation again. Truth obliges me to say, that I never, in my existence, met with a finer people than our friends in Quebec; generous, open-hearted, frank, intelligent, pious, and perfectly united amongst themselves. They occupy a very important reli- gious position ; and, it is hoped, will be the means of much good. I found they had begun a new chapel, the exact size, and intended in all things to be the counter- part, of the magnificent one at Montreal ; so that Lower Canada will, ere long, contain the most magnificent places ^ PART r. CHAPTER IX. 115 of worship in the Methodist world. It is intended to get Dr. Bangs, on his visit to the Canada Conference next summer, to open this new place of worship. This will, to all parties, he interesting ; as I believe this emi- nent Minister of Christ was the first to preach our doc- trines in this city. A man is often permitted, in his own life-time, to see great results from small beginnings in America. Taking a most afl'ectionate leave of this kind people, many of whom had assembled for the purpose, we got on board the steamer in the evening ; and, ascend- ing the St. Lawrence during the night, found ourselves again in Montreal for breakfast the next morning, at the house of Mr. Kay, a countryman, and belonging to one of the numerous families of that name in Lancashire. Before quitting Can.ada, a remark or two may be proper on general subjects. No one can see this country without being convinced of its great importance. Its area is that of a mighty empire ; for, though thousands of square miles are barren, and must always remain so, by reason of their northern position, yet still there will be left, for pro- fitable cultivation, probably as large a portion as the whole of central Europe. The soil of this vast space is most prolific, capable of bearing abundant crops of wheat, and every other kind of grain and fruit, suited to a wheat- growing country. Moreover, this territory being inter- sected by noble rivers, navigable in most places, and capable of being made so by canal-adjuncts almost uni- versally, is, of itself, an infinite advantage, and presents vast facilities of intercourse and cheap transmission of both people and produce from place to placf*. My duties called me to pass along tbe shores of Queen Victoria's posses- sions, for just about a thousand miles. This was effected, partly by the course of the Lakes, and partly by the Bay of Quinti and the river St. Lawrence ; whilst at the same time I did not see the termination of the latter by be- twixt three and four hundred miles. This magnificent river, which, with the Lakes, through which it is always considered as passing, is of greater length than even the Mississippi; — and is, in itself, of the value of an empire. Those who command the navigation of the St. Lawrence must be the masters of a highway of water-communication of prodigious importance. Every year will increase this value, as the return of every season must develope the resources and riches of the country. In speaking of the command of the river, I M 4 ^ ]1G PERSONAL NARRATIVE. am reminded, that, in passing between Kingston and Montreal, there was seen a branch from the n.ain channel, which, after running some miles, returned to the parent stream. The shore on the right bank belongs to America, and that on the left to Canada. To my utter surprise, and equal indignation, by some sort of diplomatic conces- sion to Jonathan, I found our statesmen had given up both banks ; so that America is the owner of the entire stream, and the branch river constitutes the boundary- line. This is just as if it were agreed upon in general terms by the authorities, that the Grand Junction Railroad between Birmingham and London should be the boundary of territorial rights ; but, on some subsequent occasion, one f tarty should say the meaning of the treaty was, that the ine should go througli Oxford, leaving them in possession of the main trunk, and compelling the opposite party, in going to town, to turn off and proceed by the University city; — with this exception, indeed, that the branch river is unnavigable ; so that, in case of dispute, the British would be altogether shut out. These boundary- treaties are most humiliating to this country ; they always result in favour of the claims of America. Indeed, it seems a settled conviction in the American mind, an axiom of policy, and one would think a standing rule in the offices of the government, that, on all occasions of diplomacy, John Bull is destined, made, to be diddled, to be gulled, to be beaten. Oui- dandy, blundering diplo- matists are a poor match for the long-headed, practical, scheming statesmen of the United States. Canada is full of just complaints on this point, not even excepting the famous Ashburton and Oregon treaties. My good friend, Mr. Ferrier, told me a most laughable instance of this kind of thing. The subject-matter was a railroad from Montreal to — I think the name of the place is — Rochester, on the Atlantic seaboard, or, at any rate, somewhere in the east. There lived at this Rochester a Judge , whose interest it was, as will be seen, to promote the business of Rochester, and get the trains to run to that place. But the new line had to connect itself with the line to Boston, and the Boston line was on the broad guage. What did our worthy Yankee judge do ? He went to Montreal to persuade the boobies that the broad guage is a very bad guage, and that it would be much for their interest to adopt the narrow guage ; thus preventing the new line from connecting with the Boston, PART I. CHAPTER TX. 117 and making it necessary for every bale of goods to be unshipped from one train to the other, at a considerable amount of trouble and expense, or else to run on to Rochester. By this contrivance the probabilities were, that the goods would be sent on to Rochester, and increase its traffic. The judge prevailed upon the com- 1)any to believe that the narrow guagc was much the )est, and they forthwith adopted it. The bill came before the provincial Parliament ; and JNIr. Ferrier was so con- vinced of the folly of the thing, that when it came before the Senate, he offered it liis most strenuous opposition, and for the time defeated the scheme of the judge. But he was not at all discomfited : he went again to Montreal, and now, getting amongst the Senators, prevailed upon them to believe that the broad guage is a very bad guage ; and the railroad is either already coubtructed, or is in course of construction, on the principle of the narrow guage. And this very judge. Diddle or Biddle, (his name is one or the other,) is the very person whose dicta ruled in the treaty betwixt Lord Ashburton and the States ; a measure pompously put forth, at the time, as a most masterly piece of statesmanship, but which every tyro in politics in Canada knows to be a surrender of the main points in dispute, and a most humiliating affair to Great Britain. I found the country full of complaints and dissatis- faction from one end to the other. The people every where, and of all shades of politics, spoke the same lan- guage. Their fortunes were wrecked, their commerce de- stroyed ; their agriculture, the sinews of the colony, enfee- bled, ruined. Of course, all blamed the home-government. They refused to do any thing, they said, to support their credit, or to further their exertions to obtain any loan, to assist in the public works ; — the execution of these were required, to expand their strength, and to develope the re- sources of the country, but they could obtain no help. Nay, it was asserted, by men of first-rate intelligence, and who had been engaged in the attempt, that they even could not get a hearing; nobody amongst the bureau- cracy in London could be found to acquaint themselves with their affairs, or pay any attention to them. Hence the only railroad in Canada is the insignificant line, of about a dozen miles, from Montreal to the place where the steamers land their passengers for that place. This one fact shows clearly enough the stagnant state of the 118 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. country. When railroads are, of all the gifts of Provi- dence now known, best calculated to call forth the hidden resources of such a country as Canada, their absence is sufl&ciently indicative of the want of patronage on the part of Government, or of indolence in the people; and, as the latter cannot be truly affirmed, the cause must be attributable to the former. There is a pretty general belief, indeed, that England has virtually given them up ; and, because of this, it would not be in the power of Ministers to get the sanction of Parliament for any great scheme of colonization and credit. The capitalists of England, they believe, will not embark their money without Govern- ment security, entertaining the notion that the colony is vibrating in the balance ; and this not being accorded, probably for the same reason, there they are, floundering in a mighty ocean of greatness and wealth, for the want of the means of picking it up. How long this state of things will last, nobody can tell. The connexion between the mother-country and this her most athletic offspring, is now merely political ; or as nearly so as possible. All England now does for Canada, they said, again and again, is to appoint them a Governor, and make them pay him five times more than they should in case they appointed him themselves ; and to maintain an army at a prodigious exj-vjnse to keep them in order. This talk was not the con- versation of radicals, of demagogues, of French republi- cans ; but of many of the best subjects of the British crown in America ; men of intelligence, of integrity, of honour, of loyalty, of religion ; and these men are begin- ning openly to propose the question, " What are the ad- vantages of English connexion ? " aud to weigh and dis- cuss those of annexation. It does not become me to enter into such a subject in detail ; but the fact is, that the recent policy of this coun- try — the free-trade policy — has had the effect of throwing all the advantages possessed by Canada, as a part of the British empire, (and which, as such, the people con- sidered that they had a right to possess,) into the hands of the United States. Montreal used to be the great market for English produce, the centre whence it flowed to the whole of the provinces ; but now almost all this trade has found its way to New -York. On the enactment of Lord Stanley's bill respecting the adm'ssion of Canada flour into this country, a vast outlay in build- ing mills took place, which mills had just begun to work \ I i PART I. CHAPTER IX. 119 profitably ; but the new policy effeetually crushed this trade. I myself saw one of these mills, belonging to one of our friends, — a new building of great size, and which must hare cost many thousand pounds in its erection, — standing still. This I understood was generally the case. Before the new measures, the people of Canada could afford to purchase com in the United States, and, turning it into flour at these mills, obtain a market for it in Europe ; vhus deriv- ing a benefit to themselves from the soil of the States. The tables are now com{)letely turned. The Americans are now the millers ; and corn-dealers from the States come over to buy up the grain of the country, turn it into "bread-stuffs," and sell Canadian-grown wheat in our markets as American flour. This is rather too much for flesh and blood to bear. Canada and the United States are now placed, as nearly as possible, on an equal footing with regard to commercial transactions with this country ; the one being a colony of the British empire, and the other the greatest rival this nation has to conten i with in the world. How long this state of things can last, is for statesmen to consider. Canada now only belongs to Great Britain by a figment, a tradition, a loyalty, a recollection of heroic deeds ; and not by any material interest or bene- fit. Nay, in the present state of things, cast off by the mother country, and left to their own resources, with the United States just by their side, posstSf,Ing vast political power and influence ; a growing credit, and monetary resources; a prodigious mercantile and commercial navy; an active, industrious, and virtuous people ; a government capable, in all respects, and equally disposed, to foster, protect, and strengthen all its possessions; — we say, yith all these things staring them in the face, the pohcy of this country has made it the plain, palpable, interest of the Canadians to seek for annexation. This is as clear as any problem in Euclid. How long the tiadition and the loyalty will weigh against the interests now put iu ihe balance against them, nobody need be at a loss to deter- mine. Perhaps the non-election of General Cass will settle the question for the next four years ; but, had that gentleman obtained the presidency of the States, — why, the world would have presented itself in different phases at the end of the above period. Whether these fears and auguries take place or not, Canada must have a great and noble destiny. A country so magnificent, a soil so prolific, water communication so ^l 120 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. iif abundant, and a people, moreover, in whose veins British blood flows, and who are in possession of the incipient principles, freedom, and laws of England, safely planted in the soil ; such a country must rise to greatness and power. The French leaven is constantly losing its relative strength, and the British is as constantly increasing. The one population is rapidly getting a-head of the other, and assuming the lead. This must, in the nature of things, fix the destiny of the colony. Our language, our institu- tions, and our religion, will prevail. A mighty empire will rise up, enriched with knowledge, with public and private virtue^, and possessed of all the cippliances of poli- tical power and wealth. We wish them well ; they are at present our children ; and, in all future time and con- tingencies, they will be our brethren. They will carry out and perpetuate all that is valuable in our system, and, planting old England on a new soil, will reproduce ^ur nation on a gigantic scale. Chap. X. — Return — Pass the St. Lawrence — Lake Champlain — Plattsburgh — Whitehall — Journey by Stage — Troy — Albany — The Hudson — Arrival at New-York — /// — Doubtful respecting being able to return Home — Resolve to do so — Depart for Boston — Embark on board the " America " — Passage — Arrival at Home. On Thursday, June 22d, the day on which we came up from Quebec, we bade farewell to our dear friends at Montreal, and took a last look at Canada. Last things are painful, and full of interest. We parted from those who had endeared themselves by every kind of attention and aflfectionate regard, with the desire, never to be eflfaced, for their highest happiness. AVe crossed the St. Lawrence, and soon entered Lake Champlain. A por*^ion of the waters of this Lake belong to the British ; as usual, just the fag-end, whilst the great body of the Lake is owned by the States. The lines of demarcation are marked by a fort, of small dimensions or strength, which might easily be dismantled. This is, unquestionably, the finest Lake I had seen. The scenery on its banks is per- fectly enchanting ; and, urlike Lakes Erie and Ontario, it commands a view of mountain scenery of the most majestic description. This Lake is one hundred and thirty-two miles in length, and varies in breadth from the narrow channel above mentioned to nine or ten miles. Many beautiful islands stud the waters, auvl hr"e '*■ li?}* effect. At the close of the day we approached a plac s It m PART I. CIIAriER X. 121 called Plattsburg. The scene was the most heautifully romantic which nature can possibly present : A blue sUy, deep, lofty, stretching its heavenly arch to span the land- scape, the sun setting in all his gorgeous glory, the Lake smooth as glass, except as disturbed by our motion, wild fowl fluttering "bout and enjoying the cool evening, the majestic mountains of Vermont looming in the dis- tance, and all the intermediate space filled with cultivated fields and towering forests, — and then the lonely little town of Plattsburg, touching the fringe of the lake, and pre- senting the most perfect aspect of rural peace and quiet on which the eye ever gazed. My manliness was here for the first time overcome ; I longed and longed to get on shore, to fix my tent, and remain for ever. This senti- ment was new ; I had never before felt any remarkable desire to locate in any place i had seen ; but here, for a moment, I was perfectly cv^ercome. Other affections, of course, soon sprang up, and wafted my soul across the Atlantic, where treasures dearer than even these beauties had their dwelling. During this little paroxysm, delirium, or whatever it may be called, my kind companion, Dr. Kichey, had retired to his cabin, so that one of my r/ants could not be relieved, — a vent for exclamdtions of dciight ! This was just one of those moments Avhich can never be forgotten, an Eden, a paradisiacal scene, into Avhich none can enter with one, and which leaves its picture vividly pencilled on the soul. But how soon things ' harge, and in their reality fade away ! We left tias spot, pas3( d on, the night closed in, the curtain dropped. " So even now this hour hart sped In rapturous thought o'er me ; FeeUng myself with nature wed, A holy myster)' ! A part of earth, a part of heaven, A part, great Gt)d, of Thee." In the morning, in good time, >.'e found ourselves at "Whitehall, a port at the head of the Lake ; a place of con- siderable traffic and growing importance. After breakfast we had to mount the stage for Troy and Albany, a dis- m~ 1 load, if it can be called road, of between seventy and eighty miles. The jolting was prodigious, and at the end of the journey I was completely knocked up. My physical man had not failed till now ; but this tumbling about perfectly disordered me, and I was glad to arrive at Q 122 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. iW r i the end of the journey. We stayed to dine at Troy, a large and well-built city, and there again took tlie stage for Albany, being too late for the rails. It was night when we arrived ; and being too unwell to move out, except to see one or two of the main streets, I had not much opportunity of inspecting the place. But I saw it was a large, fine, and most respectable-looking city ; many of the houses being spacious, the streets broad, and the public buildings very commanding. This is the capi- tal of the State of New- York, the seat of Government, and of the State Parliament. We embarked on tlie ILidson the next morning, and descended t i ■ classical stream, the pride and glory of the American. ig esteemed by them as presenting the most beautiful s nery in the States. It well deserves its fame. The banks are studded with towns and villages, rich fields in a state of fine cultivation, stupendous and rugged rocks, together with mountain scenery of the most interesting and majestic nature, some near, and some in the distance ; abrupt and precipitous shores, yawning and frowning upon the passers by; and splendid landscapes, and picturesque views, enriched with umbrageous woods and forests. I could only now and then take a peep at this magic combination of land and water, being oliiged the greater part of the voyage to keep in my cabin. We were on board one of the most complete of the American river-boats. No1)ody in this country can form an idea of the nature of one of these vessels ; our ships furnish no analogies, except in the fact that both are propelled by steam, and glide on the water. For, by reason of the peculiar structure of the class of steamers already referred to, this vessel presented the aspect of prodigious size, both below and above. The dining-room was below, and occupied the space between the sides of the ship, reaching from stem to stern, and was filled with five or six tiers of berths, one above another ; the saloon was equally large, with state-rooms on each side. This enormous floating palace could accommodate a thousand persons on board. The term " palace " is used, of course, improperly, as a ship cannot be like a palace. But in fittings-up, in decoration, in ornament, it was a perfect palace : and altogether presented a scene of magnificence of a very extraordinary description. We arrived at New- York in the evening; and being too unwell to trouble any private friend, we took up our PART I. CUAPTER X. 123 and rcsidenco for the night at tlie City Hotel. The necessity of applying to Mr. Harper for Dr. Belcher's address, hrought him acquainted with my situation, and in the afternoon he kindly took me to his own house. In pass- ing through the streets of New- York, it was very pleasing to see the crowds returning from their places of worship. Blacks, coloured people, and whites, were all mingled together in a long flowing tide, quietly and gravely pass- ing along to their homes. By Tuesday morning I had begun to amend, and, feel- ing better, the thought suddenly rushed into my mind, *' I can go home, and I will." But the Doctor must be consulted. He came ; and, on telling him my thoughts and feelings, he said, the probability was that I should do very well ; but there was just a chance that I might liave a relapse. The reply was, " Then the probability shall have it, and we will throw the chances to the winds." We took our leave of our affectionate friends, the Harpers, about four in the afternoon. The steamer made her way down the Sound, and we soon lost sight of New- York, and its splendid harbour. I found, on trial, that my cabin was just over some kind of machinery which produced a jarring and upheaving motion, which pre- cluded the possibility of rest ; and when night came on, I was obliged to drag my mattress into the saloon, but failed to get one wink of sleep. AVe left the vessel about daylight, and passed on by railroad to Boston. After spending a few hours at the Riviere, and in visiting the city, we went on board the " America," lying in the offing, four or five miles distant. This noble ship had made the voyage from England in eleven days and a half, the shortest trip ever known ; and is, of her class, the finest steamer in the world. AYe got under weigh about four in the afternoon, and soon lost sight of the shores of America. Nothing of any consequence took place on the voyage. We made Halifax again in the night, so that I could not see any thing either of the harbour or the city. Here I lost my dear friend, Dr. lliche}, and bect«me truly desolate. He had been my companion at Pittsburgh, at the Canada Conference at Belleville, and travelled with me through Canada, and forward to this place. Truth and justice demand that I should say, that Dr. Richey is one of the most perfect Christian gentlemen I ever came in a 2 f} t. 124 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. J. ?- i ! » i I ^ "i, I contact with. Politeness, founded on gentle, warm, and genuine affections, is the very element of liis nature. I never heard from him a rash, rude, or unkind word, much less ever saw him perpetrate an unchristian or unbecoming action. I looked after my dear friend as far as the dim lamps would allow me to see him, and in my heart bade him a sad, a long, a last adieu. There sat opposite to me at our table a gentleman, with a lady and little girl, and on my right a thin, pale, inter- esting-looking young man, both completely Americanized in their appearance ; their beards were sticking out on their chins in Yankee fashion, and their dress and bearing altogether seemed to bespeak them citizens of the States. We had taken several meals in company, when the gen- tleman who sat opposite said to me, " Pray, Sir, is your name Dixon ? " On replying, " Yes," he said, " And my name is Cocker : I am the son of Henry Cocker, of llathersage : " and then the pale young man, who was standing by, said, " And my name is Ibbotson : I am the son of Mr. Ibbotson, of Sheffield." The meeting was mutually pleasant. Mr. Cocker left us at Halifax; but Mr. Ibbotson was my very agreeable companion to the end of the voyage. Suuday was unlike our sabbath on board the "Acadia." Dr. Richey hafl spoken to the captain, whom he knew, and had told him who I was, and mentioned my taking the service ; and, moreover, he understood that the cap- tain had assented to the proposition. But it did not so turn out. He read prayers himself, and finished the ser- vice with one of Henry Blunt's sermons. The service was well read ; and the sermon, as may be imngined from the name of the author, was excellent. How singular is human character! This captain would certainly not lay claim to Methodism, and yet he seemed to take great delight in acting the parson, and really did it well. He is, however, somewhat celebrated for his exclusive churchism. About a dozen American divines sailed with him from the great Alliance Meeting in London, not one of whom would he allow to officiate ; but on that as on the present occasion, he performed the service himself. One other trait of character, but quite of another descrip- tion, arose out of this affair. When the time came to propose the captain's health, which means returning him thanks for his conduct, a good Free-churchman, a genuine Scot, rose up and went out. He afterwards told me, that, PART I. CHAPTER X, 125 of perceiving what was going to be done, he departed, because he could not in his conscience be a party to a vote of thanks to a man who had, as he expressed himself, " insulted you, by taking the service himself when there was a regular minister on board." The mat- ter had little effect on my own mind, except in so far as it prevented me having the pleasure of preaching the cross of Christ to the promiscuous group around. But how truly characteristic of the real Scotchman was the conduct of my friend ! And, moreover, how honourable to his principles, his integrity, and his religious convictions ! On Saturday, the 8tli of July, we hove in sight of old Erin early in the morning and passed up Channel, all day seeing many spots interesting in Irish history, successively presenting themselves to view. Sunday morning we saw Holyhead. We were met, on returning home, with the truly English welcome of a dense fog and a drenching rain. Our pilot brought newspapers, containing an account of the massacres of Paris. We had a great num- ber of French on board ; they had been very gay up to this period ; but now an entire change came over them. Thoughtfulness, sadness, melancholy were expressed for the moment : how long would it last ? Some of the countenances seemed to indicate the fear, that possibly some endeared relative might have fallen in the conflict. Had it not been for the serious events connected with the cause of this change, it would have been perfectly ludicrous : it was like the overshadowing of a sunny scene by the sudden rush of passing clouds. We landed at Liverpool, at half-past two. I went to Stanhope-street chapel at night, and heard my present colleague, Mr. Brice. How sweet, how soothing, how heavenly is the service of God's house, after the tossinga of a sea-voyage ! And how full of rest and quiet to the soul is the society of religious friends, after dwelling for a long time in the midst of promiscuous company ! I has- tened down to the Custom-House by five o'clock the next morning ; but could not get released till near nine. Paid eight shillings duty for the American books which had been given me by friends. Set out for my beloved home, arrived about noon, found all well. To God be all the glory ! Amen. rp ZZjT^Z iB^mss^fm^. pssnniB tms^mmm 126 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. fee s> I? ; Chap. XI. — Reflections on America — Unfairly dealt nith hj Travel- lorn — A reliyious People — This necessary to ejplain their State — The real Americans not hostile to this Country — Their peaceful and prosjjerous Condition — Education, the Principles on which it is conducted — The Force of Christianity in its simply Divine Authority — The Americans trust in this — Public Jl'orship and the Duties of Religion — Slavery jtartly removed by the Influence of Christian Principle. A LENGTHENED inveFligation of objects of curiosity, or of men, manners, and institutions, is not necessary or intended, as our literature abounds with books of travel, graphic descriptions of scenery, and analysis of the insti- tutions and social state of America. These productions, of course, take their colouring, in some degree, from the opinions, tastes, prejudices, and passions of their authors. They abound with information, but contain little instruc- tion. And it cannot be denied, by candid persons, that most of them are grievously deformed by partial and exaggerated description — caricatures — of the manners and habits of our transatlantic brethren. The causes of this are undoubtedly many; and, proba- bly, if traced to their motive, would be found much diversified. One of these causes, however, is obvious enough. The Americans are a religious people ; and this element can neither be avoided nor lightly touched. But, instead of treating this question with either the hand of the Christian or of the philosopher, these parties, in some instances, disregard the subject altogether, and, in others, treat it with levity or hostility. The religious notions and peculiarities of the people are turned into ridicule and scorn ; their associations for benevolent and Christian purposes are lampooned as fanatical; their modes of expression and devotional exercises are held up to contempt ; and their abstinence from the amusements of the world are treated as indicative of ill-breeding, or signs of hypocrisy. It is obvious that writers of this class are ill-Suited to understand or to delineate the character of a grave and religious community. Taking their gauge and measure- ment from the beau monde of London or of Parisian soci- ety, they naturally find all sober sense, industrious habits, and religious sentiments an eccentricity or a bore. The point with this race of votjageurs is, to see if the manners of the plain republican are in agreement w^vh those of the PART I. CHAPTER XI. 127 aristocracy of old nations ; ^vhcthcr they come up to tlie coteries of the West End, of tlie clubs of St. James's, of the fashionable routs of our great parties; and, moro- over, if they speak, and dance, and play in the first style of fashion. Can any thing be more ridiculous than this ? AV^hat right can the flippant dames, the military beaux, the panderers to frivolity, have to expect a people ready made to their several ]mrposes ? Of what consequence can it be to the morality, the honour, the greatness of a people, that they should fashion their course by adopting the manners of the most frivolous, useless, and unreal portions of our oun people ? Neither the wisdom nor the strength of even European society will be found in these quarters. The jieople who make sport of the Puritanism of the Americans, are themselves the objects of as much contempt, in their own country, as pity will allow to be just. Like other buzzing creatures, they have just the power to sting ; and, with a malicious pleasure, they evi- dently delight in the gratification of their feeble natures. Were the disposition felt, the laugh might be turned upon these triflcrs, with as much cfiect as they choose to indulge in at the expense of the ^^evangelicals" of the States. The irritation produced in America by the liberties which have been taken with their innocent and unim- portant peculiarities, is not the worst eifect of the ephe- meral productions of the English gossips, who have chosen to make themselves merry at the expense of good manners. Deception on the public mind of this country, to a fearful and mischievous extent, has been another of the consequences. Gathering their opinions of American character from the representations of persons only intent on making a book, and rendering it spicy, is it any matter of surprise, that in this nation most false and injurious notions are entertained ? The evident intention merely to provide mental food for our circulating libraries ; to get up the tinsel sentimentality necessary to pamper the appe- tite for amusement and pleasure; — the sardonic purpose to gratify the malevolence which takes delight in scandal ; to train and excite the worse than human infirmity which revels on the foibles and weak points of our fellow-men — supposing them to exist—merely for the sake of rendering them ridiculous; — in fine, the disposition to meet the morbid prejudices of their readers, instead of being intent on truth, and doing justice to the character of the people they pro- m -«*> 5^^SmwSmm;<>~!mBE m^ \ *H •I ! %>■''' if n 128 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. fess to exliibit ; — utterly disqualify these authors for their task, and render their productions devoid of credit. It is humiliating thus to write ; but much more so to know, that gross deception has been practised in getting up even tliese productions. While the stranger has been admitted to the frank confidence of respect- able and honourable men, he has sometimes employed this privilege in making them the subject of a mental pic- ture, drawn in the mind, and anon to be transferred to his journal ; turning into ridicule all the real or imaginary singularities of their manners, and making them the butt of his wit. Their actual character is not deline- ated. They may be good men, pure patriots, worthy citizens, successful merchants ; possessed of strong and well-cultivated faculties, of good principles, of courteous manners, and generous dispositions ; — and yet all this is thrown into the back-ground, or never appears at all. At the same time, every trifling and unimportant deviation from the beau ideal of dandyism is magni- fied into prominency, and, by the ingenious combina- tions of the artist, a distorted picture is drawn, as un- true to life as if the noble frame of the American citi- zen hud been screwed into the shape of the exquisite, who has, in his kindness, been taking his likeness. In the same spirit the privacies of domestic life, generous hospitality, and well-meant and courteous attentions, have all been distressingly outraged. Not even the ladies have escaped. Whilst they have been doing their utmost to make their home agreeable, provide the luxuries of the table, and administer to the pleasures of their guest, — he has had the meanness to select them as the victims of his satire ; and, whilst indulging in plaudits, compliments, and smiles, he at the same time has been treasuring up mat- ter for a mean and cowardly exhibition of whatever his skill could afterwards turn to the account of his craft, in rendering ridiculous the women of America. This sort of conduct on the part of our countrymen — not to say, countrywomen — has had the effect of keeping up irritation amongst the Americans, and of producing false notions in this country. Nothing can be more unfair to a people than to make their peculiarities the ground-work of any kind of description, physical, social, or religious. The staple of their qualities must be fixed upon, not the exceptions ; otherwise the details will be untrue, and the picture distorted. i PART I. CnAPTER XI. 129 On reading the productions to which reference is made, one cannot help asking, Is there any thing else in these people ? If so, what is it ? That there must be something m them besides the trifles dwelt upon by these authors — even supposing them to be real — must be apparent to every one who allows himself to reflect but for a moment. The eff'ervescences of society are not society itself; the holiday foibles of men cannot be taken as illustrative of their every-day habits ; the loose and slip-slop gait of a nation, when the day's work is over, cannot be consi- dered as descriptive of their state when braced to the labours of life; the free and familiar conversation of a people in their moments of relaxation, cannot be consi- dered as the expression of those truths and principles by which they are guided in their serious moments ; and it could only lead to deception to suppose for a moment that the surface of a great comnmnity, made up as it must be of innumerable irregularities and follies, can justly indicate the forces which are constantly at work below. The aggregate, the totality of moral elements must be grappled, or otherwise any description of the character and conditions of a nation must be perfectly fallacious. Judged by this rule, and examined as a whole, it is the author's opinion, that the American people would suffer nothing from a comparison with any other. But it is, in point of fact, extremely difiicult to obtain a true notion of the character and opinions of the genuine American, and especially from the public prints. The old, the home-born, the real man of the country is very different from the alien races which are constantly transferring them- selves to the soil of the United States. These races are not always the most creditable in character, in morals, in inte- grity, — amongst the populations of Europe, which they kindly relieve of their presence, by transplanting *^icmselves, and their very questionable virtues, to the 1 . ' World. Some millions of these classes are now found located in the States ; and whatever may be the amount of their loy- alty to the nation of their adoption, it is certain — indeed, demonstrated in no equivocal manner — that they all retain the virus of that disaffection to their own country Avhich, in many cases, first stimulated their departure. This is pre-eminently the case with the Irish. Steeped in religious, political, and social disaffection at home, whatever may be the causes, — just or unjust, — these people do not fail to nurse, with the passion and intensity of G 5 ■HW'OHW mamm ^^ It ' 130 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. W i ll % i r • their inflammaMe nature, an active and indomitaLle liatred against England. But now living on the Ameri- can soil, these turbulent agitators are considered in this country r»3 Americans. Tliey are no more Americans thai? if, percliance, they were transplanted to China ; and, taking their place in the midst of that quiet and peaceful race, they should, hy reason of this accidental residence, he considered Chinese. It is certain, that a large amount of the vituperation which is heaped upon this country hy the public press of the States is from this quarter. Partly by their own means, and partly by the influence they exert by their priests, their numbers, and their organization, they are enabled to perpetuate in their exile the same antipathies, and to keep up the same rancorous bullying against the Saxon, as they did in their own beloved Erin. Their ardent and fierce passions, the author was often told, whether of sympathy with their own island, or of animosity to ours, always last through the first generation. The Irishman never alters in his own person, Avhe<^her found in St. Giles's or New- York. The sunsh* of civilization, the softening influence of free instit ', the example of quiet and good men, and, above all, the hlessings of true religion, are all in vain. He continues the same fierce, intractable, restless being as when he left the wilds, or merged from the bogs, of his native land. To hate the English and eat potatoes Avere the two lessons of his Irish life ; and if he obtains better food in the New Worltl, and thus unlearns the physical lesson, he never changes in his antipathies, or unlearns the moral, nay, the religious, duty of eternal hostility. The leaders of these peo- ple, some priestly and some laic, possess their newspapers every where in the United States, and, as in Ireland itself, are not very nice in the employment of epithets of abuse against this nation. These, generally speaking, are the parties who are so constantly attempting to keep up an irritation amongst the citizens of America against this country, by their venomous hatred, their abusive language, their speculations on revolts and revolutions ; and are, by these means, stimulating, as much as is in their power, the disloyalty of their own sweet "gem of the sea," and the Chartism of England. It is from this quarter, chiefly, that the fiery stream descends upon us, and not from the genuine American press or people. Then is it fair, is it honest, to attribute to the Ameri- cans those hostile passions which, in fact, belong to our wr- TAUT I. CriAPTKR XT. 131 own people ? The real Yankee and the liot-lieatlod Irislinmn are very different personages. It may be consi- dered by cvory body as a settled point, that the real American will never stir without an object. His love and his hatred both will have some rationale, lie will never be found to disturb his own (juict for the sake of agitating a distant nation for no rational purpose. His political belief, his theories of human rights, his percep- tions of what he considers essential to social happiness, his ideas of the grandeur of his own country, and of her high and glorious destiny, — arc, no do^bt, deeply and vividly felt in his own soul. In fact, these thoughts and maxims live in the American as innate powers, as inde- structible laws. But he is too proud a being, is too con- scious of his own dignity and strength, to be found inter- meddling in the squabbles of other nations. He may, and no doubt does, desire that his own republican regime should be taken as a model system. All Europe and the ■world are welcome to the benefit of his experiments in legislation and government. In no other sense than this can the true American be considered a propagandist. It is the impression of the author, that a nation more proudly conscious of its own dignified position does not exist on earth. It is not this class who are found em- ployed in the mean and despicable drudgery of vitupera- tion against this country, or seeking occasions of irritation and disturbance. This vocation is taken up and per- formed by our own recreant children ; with how much success, we all unhappily experience. Thus, by the agency of the two classes referred to, the British travellers on the one part, and the Irish residents on the other, the two countries are, in some degree, kept in a state of feverish excitement. This is painful to the real friends of both. Essentially one people, the bonds of union ought, by the removal of offences and jealousies, to be as much as possible tightened. The relationship is too natural, too dear and valuable, and connected too much with the happiness and advantage of both, to be allowed either to be severed or shaken by such agitators as these. It is easy to see, that the maintenance of peaceful and friendly relations between the only two great communities in which any real reciprocity of feeling, founded on reli- gion and liberty, can possibly exist, must conduce, in every way, to the well-being and prosperity of both. The past jealousies of the two countries have not been tWBI" I r- 132 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. unnatural, but now ought to end. The war of independ- ence, originating, as it did, in great questions of right on the one hand, and of indeitendence on the other, was calculated to awaken every passion of the soul. Time alone could, of course, quench the fire thus kindled. Surely the cool breezes of seventy winters may be sup- posed sufficient to put out tht flames then lit up. The two nations may, possibly, have separate interests to serve ; this must be the case ; but it is certain, that those which are common are much more numerous and durable. The political independence, the national freedom, the good government, the social happiness, the intellectual advance- ment, the moral and religious order and prosperity^ of each concurrently progressing, must necessarily act and re-act upon communities so identical in character. These higher considerations may be strengthened by lesser ones. The trade and commerce of Great Britain and the States will, in all likelihood, ebb and flow together. At any rate, it must be an infinite advantage to each to have the other for a customer. Without these political and mate- rial ties, it is too much, perhaps, to expect nations to regard each otlier with much concern. The idea of a nation is, indeed, an abstraction ; as a reality, it is only an aggregation of individuals ; and men, all over the world, ai*e certain to seek their own interests. It follows, that the reciprocity and friendship of nations must rest on the very vulgar fact of mutual benefits. It does not belong to the mere traveller to discuss these questions; but he may easily see, that the good of one community is the good of both ; and, moreover, be pardoned if he modestly venture upon the tasic of advising, that the leading and active spirits, who, in both countries, have, and must con- tinue to have, the n ain responsibility of fashioning the destinies of tlu*^ two nations, may steer clear of all colli- s.ons, in the recollection, that on the peace, harmony, religion, industry, freedom, smd moderation, of the Anglo- Saxon people, in the two hemispheres, hang the destinies of the human race. A real, confiding, well-understood, and permanent union of Great Britain and America must not only secure their own greatness and prosperity, but indefinitely pro- mote the freedom and civilization of the world. The geographical position of the two nations, their addiction to trade, their instinctive maritime propensities, their adven- turous s;nrit, their love of enterprise, must fit them to act n PART I. CHAPTER XI. 133 was sup- The together. But, more than this, the real identity of their opinions, though in some points seeming to differ, must pre- pare them to live in unity and love. This identity of senti- ment and feeling may be seen in one single fact, — the love of freedom. It would puzzle the finest optician to invent an instrument exactly to see the difference in this affec- tion, as existing in the two countries. They may, and, indeed, do, differ in their opinions as to the best means of securing this inestimable prize ; but none as to its nature, its value, its necessity, its eternal oneness with the laws of nature and the will of God. On all these points the two peoples are fully agreed. Freedom, in each country, is a truth — a principle — a right. Existence without liberty, in either hemisphere, would be deemed a curse, and not a blessing ; the despot would be abhorred, antagonized, and destroyed. AVhilst these sentiments prevail, is it worth while for the two nations to quarrel respecting the means employed by either, to secure the end they have in vie^v ? The moral grounds for harmony and concord are, or ought to be, much more potent than even the political ones ^'or disunion and discord. The one class of motives rests on the eternal laws of truth, religion, honour, and brotherhood; the other, on the accidents and interests of the hour. It is to be earnestly desired, that these considerations may have the effect of drawing the two countries together in uninterruptedly amicable relations. We are, in truth, the same people. In mind, in character, in habits, in modes of thought, there Is infinitely more resemblance betwixt the British and the American populations, than can be found between either and any other nation. It cannot be otherwise, without a perpetual miracle. Sprung from a common parentage, the same tide of ! fe flowing in the veins of each, the wonderful and mystorious type of soul which is so evidently possessed by ri. jes dwelling in both, each speaking the same language, and instructed and trained by the same master mind which lives and speaks in their common mother tongue ; — the political in- stitutions of the older people the models of the younger community ; — the laws of the one country transplanted to the soil, and constituting the code, of the other; — and, above all, the camo religious sentiments which were em- braced by the British people at the Reformation, and adopted before the pilgrim fathers took their departure to the New World, and still retained ps the popular faith of both "i^'i'WHiM I 'aa 134 PERSONAL NARUATIVE. ( SmM branches of the family : — All these things considered, how can it he otherwise than that next to a perfect identity should exist ? Nature is never untrue to herself, never ohliterates her own impress, never does violence to her undying emotions. Is it in human nature for the American republic to reflect upon the birtli-place and cradle of her existence, the father- land of her sires, to trace their own pedigrees and repeat their own names, without a thrill of interest and feeling, which cannot be experienced in the case of any other coun- try than our own ? This is impossible. No man, however far he may wander, ever forgets his homestead, the scenes of his boyhood, the companions of his days of happy frolic and joy ; and, especially, he never forgets the endearments of maternal love. Tradition keeps alive what nature gives birth to ; and it is just as credible, that the Ame- ricans are an abortion of nature, as that they can ever cease to venerate and love the land of their sires. We have had proof that this monstrous perversion has not in reality taken \)\ace. It is the author's undoubted belief, that a profound aflfoction towards this country lives in the real American mind. Beneath political agitations, jealousies, and momentary ebullitions of spleen and oppo- sition, there remains, in the depths of the human soul itself, the sure ple'^^o, the indubitable guarantee, of reci- procal love. We say "reciprocal love." It is not to be expected, that the American people should continue to cherish good feeling towards us, if their fraternal regard is rudely or contemp- tuously met. From several causes, it is to be feared, that our disposition towards them is less kindly than theirs towards us. They can better afford to indulge in generous feelings than we can. Not to dwell on the fact that they were the victors in the painful strife which separated them from the mother-country; — their prodigious growth and expansion ; the vast augmentation of political power and influence acquired in a few years ; the immense im- provement in their trade and commercial navy ; the suc- cessful trial of their principles of government, and their development on a constantly enlarging sphere of territory and population ; in fine, the entire success of the " great experiment," so emphatically referred to by Washington, when laying the foundations of the republic, may well lead to generous emotions, not to say complacency. But there are other causes of the trial of our feelings in regard PART I. CHAPTER XI. 135 to America. It is to be feared, that the British population, in general, know infinitely less of the Americans than they know of as. Silly traditions, old prejudices, and the very natural pride and egotism of our nation, lead us often to take a perfectly false estimate of our kinsmen in the New World. Family quarrels and feuds, by general consent, are allowed to be more difficult to appease than any other. And, in the case of the American people, if nature is ex- pected to predominate over political antipathies and jea- lousies, by the recollection of home, of descent, of their fatherland, ought not this to be mutual ? Can we forget, or fail to be influenced by the consideration, that the New AVorld has become, and is likely to become more and more, the home of vast numbers of our own children ? The young life of England is pouring into the States like a deep and rapid torrent. Families and individuals from the old country are c' "y Avhcre found, and in every pos- sible variety of po ji\ and employment. The writer of these pages can .y ver forget the intense eagerness and depth of feeling manifested by great numbers of these classes, and the joy connected with the mere opportunity of giving expression to their attachment to th( ir country. If it was discovered that I had been at the place of their nativity, knew any of their relations or f uds, and espe- cially if any of them had ever seen mc beloic, their ecstasy seemed complete. Are Ave to forget, then, our children in the midst of our political hatreds? England lives in America, and is likely to do so to a greater extent tlian ever. The soil which feeds and nourishes myriads of our own flesh and blood, who otherwise must perish ; a system which admits them to its privileges, and adopts them as brethren ; institutions which encourage their industry, foster their talents, and reward their public and private virtues; a nation which lays open all its avenues of profit, employment, honour, and distinction, of every sort, to our needy or adventurous sons ; — such a land is not to be thought of by us otherwise than with profound interest and regard. The motives that lead the parent to follow his children with anxiety into the world, when they first leave his house, may well cause us, in the same spirit, to send our thoughts after our children, so numerously seek- ing their destiny in the United States. It has been already said, that the " Americans are a religious people." Their character, habits, and institu- tions, cannot possibly be understood, without taking this 136 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. element Into consideration. Persons who only look at the forms, the skeleton and frame-work, of society, and con- sider its strength and perfection to lie in these, will neces- sarily conclude, that xVmerica is a heterogeneous mass of human beings, devoid of shape and symmetry. To parties whose lives have been spent in old nations, whose govern- ing power, from time immemorial, has been external, and their means coercion, this is a very natural conclusion. The public order, morality, peaceful demeanour, and industrious habits of a people in these old societies, are all supposed, by their theories of government, to be enforced, — to be worked into the mind of the body politic by appli- ances from without. Government, in these cases, is like the dexterous avocation of the herdsman or the hunter ; who, in the one case, pens-in his animals, and only allows them to graze at his pleasure, and, in the other, circum- vents them by his cunning and art. How far the state of these old countries has made this essential, it is not for us to discuss ; but, at any rate, if the necessity exists, it does not speak much for the intelligence and morality of the people. The pageantries of state, the trappings of royalty, the draperies and ornaments of decorated officials, — together with the infinite and endless, soul-less ceremonies to be observed, — are all, no doubt, brought in to heighten the impression, and strike the senses of the vulgar. Those who place the power of good order and national security in these external things, will, as a corollary, think of the United States as a most lawless community. Not having the insignia of order, as found in their own country, they may, perchance, imagine that the substance is absent. It was the fortune, good or ill, of the present writer, to pass from Boston to Pittsburgh, and, of consequence, through all the intermediate space, embracing most of the cities, towns, and country of the older States, without set- ting his eyes on a single soldier, liveried policeman, or any other human being wearing the dress of authority. At the last-mentioned place he saw an assembly of volunteers, horse and foot ; and, on inquiry, found that they had turned out to do honour to the remains of one of thoir neighbours, an officer, who had lost his life in the Mexican war, and had been brought home for sepulture. But though there was not the slightest appearanceof any thing in the form of exter- nal coercion through all the space mentioned, society lay as unruffled, as peaceful and quiet, as one of their own beau- tiful lakes on a summer's evening. Let it not be ima- r jii •, to nee, the set- any At PART I. CHAPTER XI. 137 gined, that this repose is the stillness of death. Probably no equal number of men on earth are so active, so fully engaged, or have more various and complex business transactions than this population. Industrious, eager for wealth, proud of distinctions, and sensible of the benefits of a good standing in society, these people are working their way up the hill ; and yet there is no visible, certainly no military, force to keep them in order. Here, then, are phenomena to be solved. How is this ? AVhat is the power leading to this state of things ? The answer to these questions will vary with the creed of the parties putting them. The political philosopher will look to his theories for a solution, and attribute the power and advancement of society to civil institutions, to the republicanism of the country. He will say that the principles and pi jvisions of this system, lying at the basis of the body politic, and extending their ramifications through the whole, are the motive power of the existing life, contentment, and happiness of the people. The econo- mists, the merchants, the men of trade, the dealers in money, and the jobbers in all sorts of speculations, will, in their turn, call in to aid the investigation ideas and notions taken from the wide-spread territories of the States, the fertility of the soil, the extent and usefulness of their rivers, the spaciousness of their harbours — mines, forests, manufactures, farms, and all the other agencies of indus- try and wealth. Without in the least depreciating the importance and value of all these things ; and, moreover, allowing them their just share in producing the existing prosperity of the country ; we must avow our scepticism as to the power of these means to create the greatness and the hap- piness of the American nation. It is, indeed, an un- speakable advantage to be saved from the pressure of a crowded, and, as a consequence, a pauper, population. This is fully enjoyed. Every man has scope for his enterprise without treading upon the heels of his neigh- bour, or injuring his prospects by competition. Every family has room for development ; the young can be pro- fitably employed, and the certainty of success presents itself to stimulate their industry and activity. There is a sufficiency of soil for the scions of every house to take root and spread their branches ; and, in case of suitable culture, the sunshine of heaven, its dews, and its rains, they are certain to rise to maturity. No kind of genius, of I 138 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. skill in the arts, of inventive powers, of mechanical capa- city, of eminence in the professions, of governing talent, of senatorial eloquence, or intellect of any other kind, can possibly go unrequited. There may he rivalries, conten- tions, and fierce gymnastic-like trials of strength, for the higher prizes of the world ; but there is an area of sufficient space to occupy the population in the ordinary courses of life ; whilst great numbers have been trained in these normal schools, to aspire to the more honourable posts. Then, allowing for all the advantages referred to, we ask. Are they of themselves sufficient to account for the peaceful and progressive state of society, as it is seen in the United States ? I confess, I am not persuaded of their sufficiency. There must be something else ; more profound, more permanent, more influential over men's souls, — something more deeply embedded in the moral sentiments of the people, more divine, than any thing we have mentioned. If, in the absence of external co- ercion, society is found to be moral and quiet, then these virtues cannot arise from this cause. If not guided by the skill and the poAver of a master, men must be the masters of their own movements ; and in case these movements are in the paths of wisdom, good order, peace, and morality, to what does this lead us ? It leads to the inevitable conclusion, that moral sentiment is the guiding light and the sustaining power of such a commu- nity. But then is it possible for morality to have any vitality "without religion ? We think not. A morality which is not based on the doctrines of Christianity is a baseless fabric, a sapless tree, a lifeless mummy; in fine, a con- tradiction, a falsehood. But we are not left to specula- tion on these points. Inferences in many cases may be pretty truly drawn ; but we prefer facts. It is, then, an undoubted fact, that the American peo- ple do pay great regard to religion ; and as this, like every thing else, is with them a personal and not a conventiouvil concern, it is all the more energetically promoted. It seems a principle of Americanism, that the obligations of our nature are untransferable. An American never dreams of putting his social or religious obligations into com- mission. He never considers himself as having denuded himself of his responsibilities, when he has given his vote for a president, and taken his share in constructing a government. Even his political duties are not, in his T PART I. CHAPTER XI. 139 own estimation, put in abe3'ance by these transactions, much less his moral and religious. He does not expect the government to serve God for him, or to take into its hands the task of publicly providing for that conservation of morality and religion which he knows can only be secured by personal exertions. According to American ideas, the state does not con- sist of public functionaries, whether civil or ecclesiastical, but of the people. The souls and bodies of the popula- tion, unitedly, constitute the state : not a function, not an oflfice. In the state making provision for this or the other, the American would include himself. He has no notion of public men taking his place, and relieving him of the burden of his own intelligence, conscience, humanity. This is a living power. It is refreshing even to look upon a true and real American, with his swinging gait, in the full consciousness of his manhood. There is some- thing even in his appearance different from other people. It i& lot recklessness, not rudeness, not isolation, not misan- thropy. Nothing of this sort is seen. And yet there is an air of perfect independence and freedom, conscious- ness of strength and power, repose in the midst of acti- vity, calmness and dignity with profound emotions. An American, more than any character it was ever my happiness to study, looks like a man who is sensible that he carries his own destinies about him; that he is complete in himself; that he is a self-acting, self- moving intelligence ; that he has to shape his own course, and become the architect of his own fortune. He does not seem to be looking without to catch the chances of some stray events by whicii to fashion his life : his thoughts are steadily fixed upon strengthening his own resources, and he is always laying in a stock for the voyage he is upon. The effect of this is to produce (I hardly know what to call it) a rotundity, — a fulness,— a completeness of manhood, — not seer 'n other societies ; and to those who do not comprehend him, or who have only been accustomed to the fawning flatteries — and as false as they are fawning — of other nations, all tliis is extremely offensive. Enter an American store, and, instead of being baited, wheedled, and deceived, the language, as expressed by action, is, " You may buy, if you please. It is your own concern ; do as you like." It came to the author's know- I I f! I w. 140 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. 1'^^ •,^- 1! ledge, — and the fact will illustrate our point, — that a very popular traveller and writer, who was receiving the incense of the fashionable world in the States next to adoration, in the midst of this excitement, sent for a grave tradesman to wait upon him at his rooms ; no doubt with the intention of entering into some busi- ness arrangements. What was the reply ? In spirit, *' My compliments to Mr. , and inform him it is not the custom of our house for one of its princi- pals to seek or receive orders in such circumstances. If Mr. wishes to do business with us, or has any thing to propose, he must come to us ; we shall be glad to see him." " How rude !" says one of the gentlemen of "the trade," in " the Row," or at the West End. Well, the question of rudeness must be settled betwixt the two parties. It is just possible that the American might think it as rude to be summoned to attend the English traveller, as the latter considered it in him. We only select this instance of independence as illustrative of cha- racter. It is a general trait. Instead of moving and acting like the members of the body at the bidding of some other head or will than his own, instead of being dragged along, like the helpless travellers of a railroad train, by forces independent of himself, — the American chooses to consult his own counsels, to examine his own course, and to move the machine intrusted to him by his Creator by his own free volitions. All this may either be good or bad. In case the forces which are thus put in motion are fitted to move aright, it is easy to see that the results must be vastly im- portant. Man, free, unfettered, acting on his own convic- tions, supposing them to be wise and good, must possess a power which men in chains, or working in gangs like slaves in a plantation, cannot enjoy. This individualism is, in point of fact, the leading feature of American cha- racter. The true son of the soil never parts with it. The combinations, confederations, unions, and committees into which politics or commercial enterprises drive him, never despoil him of his identity. How then, seeing that every American is expected to act for himself, is he prepared to take his post ? Let us examine this point. Its solution is what we want to get at. Is he let loose on the world a mere animal to prey upon its vitals, or is he religiously prepared ? This leads us to the ques- tion of education. Great attention is paid by the Ame" « PART I. CHAPTER XT. 141 ricans to this vital sul)jpct. What wouhl he called in this country national education, universally prevails. Schools are provided at the puhlic expense; and though this peo- fde have a proverhial antipathy to taxation, yet they wil- ingly tax themselves for this purpose. The system so often attempted here, on the model of some of the continental nations, is not the system of America. They have not estahlished a central power, or educational department, under a minister of state, or any thing analogous to our Committee of Privy Council. The people manage their own affairs in this as in other things. The municipal bodies and the parochial authorities have the power to assess themselves for educational purposes. This is done on a broad scale ; in the elder States the provision is uni- versal, so that every child may, if his parents choose, obtain the advantages of a good common education. And inasmuch as every inhabitant is obliged to pay his share of the expense, whether he avails himself of the school or not, this is found to operate against parental neglect. But the advantages are so obvious ; the popular voice against ignorance, and in favour of knowledge, is so influ- ential ; the duties of citizenship, in which all share, are so pressing, and its honours so tempting ; that every parent is induced to place his children in one of these schools. Zealous partisans would probably say, that these are not religious schools, because particular creeds are not enforced. This would be impossible in a country where no creed possesses a pre-eminence, or is sanctioned by the state. But if the holy scriptures constitute the basis of Christianity, then these are Christian schools, notwith- standing the absence of creeds. The Bible is read daily, it is the standard book, the foundation of every thing ; and its divine authority is thus universally taught, and its sacred lessons constantly inculcated. True to their principles, the Romanists at New- York, some time ago, at- tempted to get the Bible banished from the public schools. In this they failed ; for though by their union and compact- ness they possess much strength, and on merely political questions, by throwing their weight into one scale, they nave it in their power to turn the balance, — on this point, which was deemed a religious one, and on which all the Protestants were agreed, they utterly failed in their un- holy attempt. This educational provision, being purely popular, may be taken as an indication of the public mind on a great t ; !<1 ! 142 PERSONAL NARRATIVK. V i 1 religious quostioTi. Instead of leaving their chlUIren to go astray from their birth, we sec that Christian instruc- tion is provided for them, as an essential and national blessing. This does not seem as if the people were indif- ferent to Christianity ; and, moreover, it proves that they desire to seize the most fitting time in the life of man to inculcate its sacred lessons. This, no doubt, is one of the healing ingredients thrown into the troubled Avaters, one of the moral forces which ever after works in determin- ing the character of the individual, the state of domestic life, and the conditions of society. And instead of indif- ference in this one arrangement, Ave see religion, in its most catholic form, employed as an instrument of na- tional order, virtue, and peace; and, that a useful and vir- tuous citizenship is not expected without the employment of suitable means. We are considering the question of religion. Do the Americans trust to the processes of secular knowledge, or the power of merely human means, for the maintenance of public order, and social prosperity ? The answer to this question stands out in bold relief. In every city, small and great, are seen largo and spacious public build- ings ; and, on inquiry, the stranger is told that these are the common day-schools of the place. On entering, he finds that, besides the routine of a very good educational system, embracing the usual matters of secular instruc- tion, the scriptures are taught to the whole population ; God speaking to them in the impressive lessons of his own word. Here the Avork of Christianity begins. Can any one calculate the amount of influence produced on the public mind, and on the moral state of a great ])eople, by this one living, active, pervading agency ? Religion is here brought to operate upon the youthful heart in its blandest and most Avinning, attractive form ; namely, that of the words of scripture. It is not so very evident as some persons seem to imagine, that the best Avay to impress the mind of children is to drill them to get by heart some meta- physical, crabbed dogmas of theology which neither them- selves nor their teachers can in the least degree comprehend. Yet, in the jargon of our sectarianism, this is called teach- ing religion, Avhilst the reading of the Bible itself is considered as not teaching religion at all ; and schools ow/y using the word of God, Avith prayer, are said to be secular. Certainly, Americans do not think so. The holy scriptures are a reality Avith them ; and by their conduct, ■wn 1 PART I. CHAPTER XI. 143 he wc have reason to think that they phico more coiifidonco in tho divine teaching of these "lively oracles" of God, than they do in the stcp-by-step process of Catechisms, all of which hc<^in at the wrong end ; commence at the top and huild downwards ; start with the highest abstractions on the divine essence and attributes, and then from this elevation lead the poor little inquirer down into the de- tails and facts of revelation. Is not a population, formed on the inculcation of the scripture, as likely to become real Christians and good citizens, as a population drilled in the abstractions of any existing Catechism ? There is a breadth, a fulness, a simplicity, and especially a divi- nity, in the word of God, which cannot be found any where else ; and, least of all, in the bare-bone^ skeleton- like lessons propounded to the poor children of this nation. On the whole, then, it must be seen that the entire American people are trained in religion from their childhood, if the Bible teaches it. At any rate, an im- pression is made as to the divine authority of this holy book, that it is the word of God, the charter of salvation, the guide to heaven, and the only rule of faith and prac- tice binding on the human conscience. One would think this is doing something towards forming society, and building the morals, hapniness, and progress of the nation on our glorious Christianity. But besides the care taken of the young, we find that Christianity pervades the United States in vigorous action. This is seen in the numl)ers attending public worship, in the extent of church-communion, in the observance of the sacraments of the church, in the respect paid to the sabbath, in the number and variety of religious and charitable institutions, in the placing of their collegiate and higher educational departments under the care generally of religious men, in the diffusion and influence of a Chris- tian literature ; and, in fine, by the depth and extent of religious feeling and principle. By these means, Chris- tianity, it is evident, touches and influences the entire social and political state. It is not meant by this that every individual is a pious Christian, but that the spirit of the evangelical system is in sufficient power to give to religious opinion and senti- ment the complete ascendant in society. A man is not reflected upon, or deemed less fit for the higher duties of the state, hy belonging to a Christian church ; he is rather considered the better quftlified for even civil posts of trust H S i ■i w^ 144 PERSONAL NAimATIVR. i and responsibility. It liappennd tliat the writer fell in with [>ersoiis,a!i(l heanlt'roiu them thedt'claration, that they could not ^ivo th(»ir sufVraf^cs to a very favourite candidate for the presidential cliair, on the ground that he was thought to he too lax in his habits. And, moreover, it was said again and again, that this gentleman had damaged his position and blighted his ])rospects by this very circumstance. Afterwards, indeed, he had reformed; and it was stated, on good authority, that this gentleman had joined a Christian church, so that this objection must have fallen to the ground. This will appear foolish and bigoted to many of the wise men of this world, and may be thought to have been the feeling only of hot-headed enthu- siasts. Not so. And it illustrates the point for which it is adduced, namely, that Christianity is a very powerful element in American society. A very sensible and amiable gentleman, living in the States, remarked, on the voyage out, " One of the things which will surprise you is the number of sects existing in the country." By the by, there is not much difference in this respect between the mother and the daughter. But the fact here stated is a great stumbling-block to many, who can entertain no idea favourable to religion itself unless 't exist as a unity, .^nd is placed under the leadership oi' their favourite ecclesiastical functionaries. Certainly such parties will not find their "ideal church" in America. But if they will look deep enough, they will discover what is ])etter than an external organization of stupidity and death ; they will find very much of the vitality of Christianity, a settled and active faith, together with a profound conviction of the obligations to energetic piety, and the exercise of a divine charity. This division of the Christian body in America into sects, and the fact that a union with any one or these sects is no bar against employments of the most honour- able kind, is, to us, an anomaly. A Methodist lord- chancellor, a Baptist attorney -general, a Presbyterian commander of the forces, an Independent secretary of the state, and an Episcopal, or Popish, gentleman doomed to take rank with one of these sectarians, or under him, as the case may be, looks strange in this country. This is no fictitious picture, but a matter of fact. Men are united in the common service of their country indiscriminately, irrespective of their creed or religious connexions. The sects may hate each other, as is their wont elsewhere ; but I PART I. cnAPTER XI. 145 who the state knows no distinction betwixt one class of reli- gionists and another. At the present moment, though I was told that the President does not hold communion with any church ; yet he usually listens to a Methodist sermon in the morn- ing, from one of the chaplains of Congress, who is of that persuasion, and to a Presbyterian minister in the evening, his lady belonging to that ohurch. One of the judges of the Supreme Court, answering as nearly as possible to our Court of Chancery, is at this moment a member of the Methodist Episcopal body, not nominally, but really ; observing the rules, and attending upon nil the services, of bis church in all his movements. JNloreover, the talents, character, and standing of this gentleman are such, that in the present contest for the office of president he has been mentioned, indeed brought forward by a numerous and most respectable class of his fellow-citizens, as a candidate for th^ high distinction. These are only mentioned as instances of the working of the system ; and no doubt every other appointment is in agreement with these cases of perfect impartiality. But the matter of fact is, that in the United States the several churches to which reference is made are not, in our sense of the expression, sects at all. There are no sects in America, no Dissenters, no seceders; — or, whatever other term may be employed to designate the position and standing of a Christian society. They are all alike consi- dered as Christians ; and adopting, according to the judg- ment of charity, with equal honesty the common charter of salvation, the word of God, they are treated as equal, and as possessing similar and indefeasible rights. This is certainly a new aspect of living and visible Christianity ; and our business with it at present is, to test its operations on society. Can perfect liberty and equality in religion work well when favoured by circum- stances as in the United States ? Is Christianity itself, in its own revelations, its own glorious platform and basis, its own provisions and divinity, when made plain, and put into the hands of a people, sufficient, without being formed and modified by the political society, to produce its legitimate fruits ? This question, like many others, is in course of solution in the States. Go into a popish country, and speak of Christianity, and the native of one of these nations, however elevated in rank, or polished by education, instantly thinks of Popery. He u mm 146 PERSONAL NARRATirE. t' ! I ■r. It fh 't l\- knows of no religious system }:ut the hierarchy of Rome; and it is impossible to get into his head an idea of an abstract, a divine, and an u:? alterable Christianity, reposing on the truth of God, and connected with his throne. It is yery much the same amongst ourselves, and especially amongst the higher ranks. These gentlemen cannot conceive of any Christianity otherwise than that which is embodied in their own church. In almost all the speculations of men amongst us, church organizations, official distinctions, ecclesiastical canons, and the dress and tinsel which n' m put upon their own fond creations, are confounded with Christianity itself, and so called. If looked at only in this light, the evangelical economy must be pronounced an utter failure. Of all the wretched things whose history sttii.d^ out in the annals of time, the history of churches is the most humiliating, and the most calculated to make human nature blush. What has ecclesiastical, hierarchical Christianity done for the world in ancient times ? It has put its trammels upon the simple, primitive, and personal piety and usefulness, which had bgen produced from time to time by the pure gospel, and rf duced the so-called church to the condition of one mighty conglomerated mass of slupid ignorance and vice ; then, seizing the reins of ev^n political power, has entwined itself parasitically around the institutions of society, reducing the world to the dominion of a politico- religious despotism. Much debate has arisen in the world respecting states adopting the church, then corrupting, then enslaving, her. In passing, it may be permitted one to ask the zealous partisans of church purity and state corruption, of ch irch love of freedom and state love of tyranny, just to rever jO their inquiries, and ask, in all possible candour, as to the real delinquents in this matter. My belief is, that, as a general rule, the state has not corrupted the church, except as a participant, just as co^npanions in vice vitiate each other; but the church has, in most instances, cor- rupted the state. Neither has the state enslaved the church, as a general rule, though sometimes this may have been the case ; but the church has, whenever it wos allowed, invariably enslaved the state. Nothing is so detrimental to the liberties and the virtues of mankind as a corrupt, a fetid religion, at the parne time organized and guided by the subtle and crafty genius of a profligate priest- hood. PART I. CHAPTER XI. 147 It can be no matter of surprise that the American peo- ple, being favoured with the opportunity, the soil being clear, and no old institutions standing in the way, should be disposed to adopt a new principle, and, discarding all authoritative church-organization, try the effect of Chris- tianity itself, in its own native grandeur and divine simplicity. This they have done. We have seen that the people is the state ; and the state, in this sense, namely, through the people, has, with the exception of the infidels amongst them, adopted Christianity ; only, instead of being an hierarchical government, it is that of the holy Scriptures, — the Bible itself being the govern- ing light, the decisive authority, the court of final appeal. All the interests of society converge to this point ; religion is its life, its power, its beauty. It is like the substrata Oi the world, on which all the soils whence the vegetable productions spring repose in security. Is this common Christianity, taught and developed in Scripture, sufiicient for a ration ? May the people of a state be safely left, other things being favourable, to this simple process ? The answer to this question is in course of solution in the United States. So far as it has been tested, it is believed to have answered. Notwithstanding the number of churches, bearing different names, and adopting diversified forms of service, there is probably as much or more unity in these States than elsewhere. Looking at their spirit and visible position ; that is, in the general absence of polemic strife, of bitter contentions between church and church, of acrimonious declamation against each other in their religious periodicals ; — and then their intercommunion and good neighbourhood, joint exer- tions for common objects, and, on the whole, harmonious agreement : — these all unite to show that these professors of the name of Christ can meet each other on the ground of their common Christianity, though differing in non- essential points. So far as he had the opportunity of intercourse with ministers and Christians of various denominations, the author is bound to say, that he met with the most frank and affectionate courtesy, and saw the same spirit manifested one to another; and, moreover, that there appeared infinitely less of what is distinctive and sectp.rian than in this country. Whilst at the Conference at I'ittsburgh, all the Protestant pulpits of every sort were filled each Sunday by IVFethodist ministers, ex(;ept some one or two of the Episcopal Q 2 'W.. I-T"-*^^ r< ' 148 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. k churches, whose ministers were believed to be tinctured with Puseyism. It is no marvel that this unity of spirit prevails. The bitterness of sectarianism is prevented by the nature of their position. No one church thinks of calling another church, resting on the Scriptures as its basis, and only diflFering in external organization, " heretics," " schis- matics," and " Dissenters." No class of ministers, except popish priests and a few hair-brained Puseyites, ever dream of saying of other ministers that they are "un- authorized," have no "vocation," are "intruders" into other men's folds, and "usurpers" of the priestly office. These things can have no existence where common-law Christianity prevails ; they are the assumptions of sects, of exclusive pretensions, of caste claims. The only unity that ever can be found in this world, — unless God miracu- lously cut down all souls to one common level, — is this. No power on earth can screw mankind into one shape and form on matters of faith and religious opinion. Unity can never exist in the sense of sameness, like bricks in a wall, or metal from a die. What is to throw souls into the same type ? The idea is absurd ; but this kind of unity has ever been the cant of bigots, or oftener still the instrument of tyrants to obtain the object of their ambition, — domi- nion over their fellow-men. The unity of the gospel lies deeper ; it is unity in the truth, not as seen by another, but as apprehended ^ y the individual mind. But this truth is large, broad, open. The divine revelations are not given in set and limited propositions, like the syllo- gisms of man. It seems to be the purpose of God to leave the manner of apprehending and believing the gospel undefined and free. How should it be otherwise ? Give any dogma to the first dozen men who may be met with, and it is certain that every one will conceive of it diiferently. How, then, can unity be found in the manner of holding the truth ? But though the gospel may be apprehended variously, yet, if it is really embraced, and simply believed, as the mind is assisted by the helps within its reach, and especially as taught by the Spirit, ivho shall say that this vitiates the truth itself? Hence, though in the United States the churches may be called by different names, and there may be diversities of opinion, even in matters of faith ; yet it does not fol- low from this, that they are not every one of them true churches. But it is more on points of discipline and I; u 'iJ! k mmm PART I. CHAPTER XI. 149 un- t ■■ church order, than on questions of truth and faith, that diiferences spring up, and become the prolific parents of separations. Can any one prove from holy scripture, that the Author of Christianity has not left this an open ques- tion ? Or, can any one show that He has given his fol- lowers a model church, a platform, a skeleton temple? He has done no such thing. In his mercy and goodness to mankind. He has — following the analogies of nature- prepared a world, a universe of truth and grace, appear- ing confused, but not so in reality, stretching infinitely beyond the line and definitions of man. And just as men are left to build their social state and polity, in the midst of the agencies and provisions of nature; to culti- vate their fields, erect their cities, appropriate to them- selves the bounties of Providence, and create the forms of civilization for themselves ; — so, in like manner, Chris- tians are permitted to erect their tents, found their churches, and enjoy the blessings of religion freely, on the broad field of scriptural truth ; and, for any thing which can be shown to the contrary, one organization is as law- ful as another ; the only difference being in the fitness of such organization to edify the people themselves, and evangelize the world without. The American system looks for unity on this broad basis. As far as can be seen, it is as much secured as can be well expected in the midst of the infirmities of human nature. At any rate, society is not convulsed, nor the state put into jeopardy, by religious contentions, claims, and projects. If religion does not bless, neither does it curse, the country ; if it does not produce health, neither does it extend any social pestilence ; if, in fine, it does not allay human passions, neither does it exasperate them. But the matter is placed too low by being thus hypothetically put. It is my deep conviction, that reli- gion is the conservative power of American society. It is the salt of the community : it is the life and the soul of public and private virtue : it is the cement, the power of coherence, which holds the States together; and, by puri- fying the public morals, elevating the soul with noble sentiments, creating the sense of responsibility, and sti- mulating to industry, it is creative of their greatness and power. But by the English reader it will be instantly asked,— which, in fact, has often been the case, — If religion be so powerful an element in American society, why does it not BW ■^ mmm 150 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. n m m il! 'Mi I i abolish slavery ? Let us look at this question impartially. If this is done, it will be found that either Christianity, or some other great moral force, has done something in this direction already. The whole continent, including all the existing territory of the republic, was inherited, at first, from this country, with this great curse. Has any thing been achieved to get rid of it ? The answer is, that many of the States bave freed themselves from the evil. The States of Maine, New-Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, lihode Island, Connecticut, New- York, New-Jersey, Pennsylva- nia, Delaware, Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsan, Iowa, — have all renounced slavery. Let us learn to do justice where right principles have prevailed. Christian truth must have had something to do in free- ing the people of colour from their chains. This, no doubt, has been the motive power in bringing about this issue. There remains another triumph, even in these States, for the same influences to effect ; namely, the enfranchisement of the liberated African race in the rights of citizenship. They still remain aliens, though free. The constitutions of the several States, without exception, continue to proscribe them for the sin of the colour of their skin, however religious, virtuous, and orderly they may be.* These people give their allegiance, their labour, their support to the state ; and yet they are denied any place within its pale. This is unjust, and it is as impolitic as it is oppressive. But we must trust to time, to the growth of better principles, to the improve- ment of the African race itself; and no doubt, where so much has already been accomplished, in the end right views and feelings will prevail. Nothing can be said respecting those States which are not only slave-holding, but manifest a fixed resolution to foster and perpetuate the evil. It is true, the difficulties in the way of getting rid of the institution are prodigious ; much more so than the people of this country can appre- * The constitutions of the several States merely pretermit them, by enacting that " every white male" shall possess the franchise. This is sufficiently eflfective. The State of New-York, indeed, men- tions them expressly ; but, (strange to say !) in the case of the African race, they establish a property-qualification. The words are : " No man of colour shall vote, unless he shall have been three years a resident of the State, and, for one year next preceding the election, shall have owned a freehold worth two hundred and fifty dollars above all incumbrances, and shall have paid tax thereou." ^ do > PART I. CHAPTER XI. ]51 SO hend. But this is no reason why the injustice should be cherished, and the aggregation of the mischief and misery increased, which is undoubtedly the case. We see amongst these southern States no disposition to take even a first step in the direction of liberty. What the reli- gious element will ultimately do, no one can at present tell. If its lessons and influences are not neutralized by the antagonism of slavery itself, in time no doubt it will produce the same results as in other places. If this is not the case, then the evil, as in other instances, must take its own course, and work its own cure. It is impos- sible that so monstrous an injustice should continue sta- tionary. God has made in his decrees, in his immutable laws, the accumulations of evil to work their own destruc- tion. Men may endure oppression up to a certain point ; but beyond that point it cannot be carried. The recoil comes, in the destruction of either the oppressors or the oppressed. One of these two results must, in the nature of things, take place in this case ; — religion will illumi- nate, exult, and set the African race free ; or, being opposed, the ignorance, vice, discontent, and turbulence of slavery will, at some time, rise in revolt, and seek its revenge. The alternative is before the southern people ; they cannot evade it, any more than they can stop the sun in his course. The question at present, though difli- cult, admits of a peaceful solution ; in a while this period of probation will pass away, and some fearful hurricane, some dreadful catastrophe, will come in to settle that which religion and justice failed to accomplish. ih ,u IKi PART II. HISTORICAL NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. Chap. I. — Introductory Remarks — Mr. Wesley's great Talent for Government — The Confidence reposed in him — His disinterested Encouraycment to all who were capable of rendering Service to Religion — Became the Bond of Union to the first Methodists in America. The history of Methodism in its commencement is one of those singular facts which come in to illustrate the force of that hidden and divine agency to which the glorious triumphs of Christianity are, in holy scripture, always attributed. The insignificance of the instruments often employed in the accomplishment of the work of God, is intended to demonstrate its spiritual, its divine origin. When parties, destitute of every human distinc- tion, are seen to commence and carry to a successful issue the most difficult enterprises of religion : it seems certain, from this, that they are employed by a higher power ; that they have received a commission from God. It is true, that, in all its branches, Methodism pos- sessed, from the beginning, the advantage of the counsels and consummate guidance of its great leader. No man was ever better fitted for the task assigned him, in this respect, than John AVesley. His religious opinions and his policy were in perfect agreement ; — scriptural, simple, catholic, practical. Every thing with him resolved itself into one great purpose, — the promotion of the salvation and happi- ness of man, in connexion with the highest glory of God. Happily for mankind, the best blessings of religion lie within the compass of this simple area. Policy often per- plexes, but never ultimately serves, the cause of true Christianity. The idea will look like a paradox to men who can see no wisdom in government but what is circuitous, mystical, and subtle, — to say that true policy is found on the surface, —-that it consists in a clear, lucid, and perspicacious adher- ence to simple truth. And yet this is unquestionably the case. God, the supreme Ruler, has impressed certainty on i: ;. Bk ~-^-^»— 11 nffKarr^iM"^ t ■■■^■jir' i i: 1»ART II. CHAPtER I. 153 all his laws. His government is not a labyrinth, a contra- diction, a confused and clashing contrivance, a subtle sys- tem of expedients, intended to allure and to decoy his creatures into certain courses. The sunbeams of heaven are not clearer and brighter than the moral laws of the universe ; and the throne of the great Parent of all is no other than the throne of truth, which truth is being evolved in his entire administration and government. Confidence in this truth was never carried further, pro- bably, by any uninspired man than by the Founder of Methodism. His position made him necessarily the patriarch and the governor of his people every where. On what did he depend to accomplish his work ? Nothing, certainly, but the force of truth through his long life ; and though often placed in very anomalous and perplexing cir- cumstances, yet we never see him resorting to any kind of finesse. He trusted his work where he trusted his soul, in the hands of God. But his maintenance of prin- ciple was free from passion, and equally free from narrow and isolated notions. We never perceive any angry or coercive enforcement even of the truth itself. Truth in his mind was not, indeed, a cold syllogism ; it had all the power of a command, an obligation : and yet it was only enjoined in the language of forcible argument, ten- der and affectionate persuasion, and, as occasion required, an awful lifting up of a warning voice as to the eternal consequences of its rejection. His own keen intellect, illuminated by the Spirit, and sanctified by the grace of God, qualified him to apprehend the appropriate course in matters of administration, as well as in other things, most fully and accurately : and then the purity of his affec- tions, and his tender regard for his fellow-men, enabled him to bear with their infirmities, obtuseness, and even factious conduct, when manifested, with entire confidence as to the result. But Mr. Wesley was no partial adherent to a system, any more than a dictatorial administrator of its laws. He clearly saw that truth, like nature, is an aggregation ; that one principle is linked with another, in harmonious concert, through the universe, and all to the throne of God ; that isolation is weakness, whilst a genuine, a catholic belief in religion gives expansion to the mind, and calmness to confidence ; that government, like Chris- tianity itself, must embrace the happiness as well as the obedience of its subjects, or it must fail ; that moD, in all H 5 a'itiui:^.. mm T 154 NOTICES OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. .} n^i F? isr grades of society, in all conditions of life, in all obliga- tions and duties, in all offices and places of trust, ought to be treated with frankness, honour, and respect ; and, more- over, that in all religious relations the holy scriptures alone must be the rule, the final appeal. A ruler who fixes his thoughts and founds his entire policy on some favourite theory, some logical or mathematical line, some human dogma, some narrow party or sectarian base, — is sure, in the long run, to see his policy fail ; and the loss of his chimera will bring discomfiture and despair. His cause being frustrated, he imagines religion itself is lost ; whereas, in point of fact, nothing but an embarrassment is gone. Not so with John Wesley. He had no scheme, no theory, no pet notions, in seeking to bring about the results of religion. He threw himself on the resources and power of God's economy. The spiritual life, the moral- ity, the practical ends of government, secured, — he was perfectly indifferent regarding the external means. With him the experience of piety, the divine affections, the purity and holiness of soul and body; the entire devotedness of talents, influence, property, to God ; the operations of a saving and practical faith in t'ne Son of God ; the obli- gations to a consecrated and useful life ; the spread of the gospel on the widest possible scale ; and all kinds of good oflices rendered to each other by Christians; — these were the essentink of relijrMn with him ; and whatever best promoted ihise ends, he considered as all that was important in matters of government. Hence his administration — if we may so call his care and authority— became easy. He did not fix his regards or bend his efforts to the formation of an eccle- siastical system ; but his one object was to help souls to get to heaven ; and he taught them that in their journey it was their duty to illustrate their Saviour's glory, and endeavour to persuade others to go with them to the same abodes of the blessed. In a word, it is clearly seen, in all the movements of this great man, that he kept but one thing constantly before his attention; namely, the promotion of experimental and practical religion. And, what is more, the means agreed with the end. There was no ravelled scheme of policy in his government ; every one saw the end he proposed, and most persons acquiesced in the agencies employed to secure it. Nothing is more remarkable in the history of John wm wmmm^ PART II. CHAPTER 1. 155 no Wesley than the confidence his character inspired. All sought his counsel and advice, and deferred, in general, to his opinions. By reason of his disinterested regard to all who " loved our Lord Jesus Christ in sincerity," the sin- gleness of his purpose, the simplicity of his course, and the urbanity of his manners, — he won the entire, the unbounded reliance of his followers. Unlike the vul- ture amongst birds, devouring some and frightening the rest, he attracted all by the music of his love, and never betrayed the confidence reposed in him. His object was, never to crush, to subdue, to repress the rising energies of any, even the poorest. Christian. On the contrary, his whole management turned on the principle of calling out the latent powers of the followers of his Lord, and turn- ing them to the best account. No man ever did so much to exalt the lowly, to elevate the obscure, and to put all who were capable of any kind of service on the right track. Myriads have been rescued from a low and degrading position in life, and ultimately constituted the strength and ornaments of both the religious and the social state, who, but for him, would have passed through the world in some of its meanest and most vicious phases. His rule of action was, in the best sense, that of development. From his whole proceeding it is evident, that he had great confidence in man, as man, irrespective of the accidents of birth and education. His object was to make every one better and happier than he found him. A priest himself, — but entirely free from the priestly spirit, — he sought to en- list, for religion and the progress of the gospel, all the gifts and talents created by experimental piety. By the adop- tion of this course, he appears, in all the different circum- stances in which he is seen, much more of the father than the governor of his people ; though, in point of fact, no man more completely directed the affairs of a church than he did ; no man ever more really governed any body than he governed the whole Methodist community. We are often surprised, that instruments apparently so very unsuited achieved so much in the early history of this work. The matter of fact, however, is, that all were directed by one mind. The agencies were various, the instruments often of the humblest kind, the talents, ab- stracted from the love and zeal of their possessors, were frequently of the meanest order, and the lines of operation adopted were sometimes extremely difficult; but, all being moulded by the plastic power of this great master mmmm IVb i i\ ''• 156 NOTICES OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. of circumstances, the chaos was reduced to order, and the elements which, in their separate state, were weak as water, became compact, massive, and strong ; like grains of sand compressed by the laws of nature into mighty mountains. It has been by the union of these in&ignificant fragments of piety and goodness, that the Meihodist church has risen to its present state. But, it is perfectly easy to see, that the power of cohesion could not exist in themselves. A centre of attraction, a uniting force, became essential. Without this, the creations of religion itself must have spent their fire, and evaporated into thin air. In the first movements of any remarkable revival of the work of God, if this take place in the " field of the world," and not within the enclosures of an existing eccle- siastical system ; — men must, of necessity, become these centres of attraction, and exercise this power of concentra- tion. Institutions, of cours' cannot, at this stage, do this, inasmuch as they have no existence ; they may become rallying points afterwards, as they take their position, and develope their excellencies ; but in the commence- ment, individuals constitute the centres around which those who have not the power of self-support naturally collect. This was the exact position of John Wesley. His labours had put many agencies in motion which could not, of themselves, continue in any useful course ; but guided by his wisdom, and held up by his encouraging counsels and support, these simple and good men could accomplish much in the furtherance of the gospel. Hence the first scattered sparks of piety, which flickered in Ame- rica, at once sought to connect themselves with him. The poor emigrants from this country and Ireland, who, belong- ing to the Methodist body, were made the instruments of introducing the system, — carried with them the traditions of his excellencies. They considered themselves his chil- dren, and connected with the united societies ; they had received their religious enjoyments in union with his fol- lowers ; they had been trained under the discipline he had established; and hence, in their new circumstances, they could not look upon their expatriation as an excision from the parent tree. This, in some measure, accounts for the facts alluded to ; namely, that of a great result growing out of very insignificant means. And yet, by reason of its connexion with Mr. Wesley, nothing seems fortuitous. The r^ » PART II. CIIAriER I. 157 rise and progress of lyiethodism in the States does not look like a liapj»y accident ; though, in some of its fea- tures, it is sufficiently curious. The modes of the divine operation are often mysterious ; but there seems to he one unalterable rule in the economy of Christianity, that is, to bless man by man. The pervading will of God, as well as the influences of his grace, is, indeed, actively and constantly at work in connexion with the progress of his gospel, but not so as to exclude human labour. This will of God is eclectic as to the choice of agents ; electing some to be the depositaries of power, of trust, and of government ; giving these i)arties, truly and really, a divine mission, authenticated by gifts, influence, and bless- ing, though not by visible miracles ; and, as their work is amongst souls, and refers especially to religion, be- stowing upon them a remarkable degree of spiritual power, in the form of confidence, exercised in their functions and call. On this principle our Founder was an elect man ; chosen for his position ; endowed with divine gifts ; made the centre of a great spiritual power ; and became the instrument and messenger of a new development of the Christian religion ; and, inasmuch as hr was " ordain- ed a vessel unto honour," God gave him the hearts and affections of men. By reason of this it will be seen, that when the little rills began here and there to bubble up in America, they connected themselves directl',; with Mr. Wesley ; and they thus brought them- selves into close and intimate contact with the Fountain of all grace, through the instrumentality of one who had been thus chosen, as the chief channel of its communica- tion in the line in question. The evidences that this is the work of God, are complete. Indeed, the social progress of the United States is not more in proof of the contem- porary existence and operation of the moral elements of civilization, — than the origin and progress of Methodism is in proof of the presence, influence, and various gifts and blessings, of the Spirit of God, in connexion with its triumphs. — *• ^^\l^ 158 NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. Chap. II. — The Introduction of Methodism into New-York — Philip luttltnr;/ — Her/ins to preach — Captain IVelib — The Jirst Societj/ — Prenchinf/-f/ouse.s — Rohert Strairfiridf/e commences preacfiiny in Man/land — Freeborn Garret tson — Captain JJ'etib's Labours in Lomj Island and Philadelphia— Attempts to yet Mr. Benson appointed to America — Jie/lcctiom on these Agents — The Class-Meeting, We now hasten to give some notice of the introduction of JMethodisra into America. Twenty-seven yca;s had passed from the time of the establishment of the " United Societies" in England, and thirty-seven from the period of the meeting of the rudiraental society, or " Godly Club," in Oxford, before it made its way into New- York, in I7GG. It is impossible to suppose, that this time had elapsed without emigrant Methodists having arrived from the mother-country. They had, consequently, lost their religion, or passed into other connexions ; in the former case, they had been absorbed in the world, as the persons who, at the above date, were instrumental iu beginning the work, were in danger of being. " Philij) Embury, and a batch of emigrant Methodists from Ire- land, had so far given up their profession, as to l)ecomc card-players, when another family arrived from Ireland, amongst whom was ' a mother in Isrsvel,' to whose zeal in the cause of Cod they were all indebted for the revival of the spirit of piety amongst them. Soon after their arrival, this good woman ascertained, that those who had preceded her had so far departed from their ' first love,' as to be min- ghng in the frivolities and sinful anmsements of life. The knowledge of this painful fact aroused her indignation, and, with a zeal which deserves commemoration, she suddenly entered the room where they were assembled, seized the pack of cards with which they were playing, and threw them into the fire." How great the pity, that the name and future circum- stances of this noble-minded woman are not preserved ! She may be justly considered as the real instrument of the work which followed ; inasmuch as she roused the slumbering men from their lethargic dreams, and put them in motion. " Addressing Embury, she said, * You must preach to us, or we shall all go to hell together, and God will require our l)lood at your hands,' He tremblingly repUed, * I cannot preach, for I have neither a house nor a congregation.' * Preach in your own house first, and to our own company,' was the reply. Feeling the responsibility of his situation, and not being able any longer to resist the importu- mmmmm^^ PART II. CHAPTER II. 1")9 nities of his reprover, he consented to coniply with lier reqncst ; and, accordingly, i)roachcd his first sermon in his own hired house, to tivc persons only, Tliis, it is lieUeved, was the first Metiiodist sermon ever preaclicd in America." * Thus began JMethodism in America. The circumstances are not very auspicious, and the chief agent, as we see, not a very pronjising person. Had not the fiiitli and zeal of our female heroine come in to the help of pusillanimous men, the feeble spark would, at this time, no doubt, have gone out ; and the origin of this great cause would have commenced at some other point, and, possibly, have assumed another character. " From this time they gra- dually gathered strength, till they were able to rent a room in the neighbourhood, of larger dimensions. Here they assembled for mutual edification, Mr. Embury con- tinuing to lead their devotions, and to expound to them the word of God." t Captain Webb made his appearance on the scene soon after their first feeble efforts, greatly strengthening the confidence of the " little flock," and, instrumentally, aug- menting their numbers. He had been brought to the knowledge of salvation by the remission of sins, at Bristol, about the year 17^)5 ; and, it seems, immediately began to call sinners to repentance. The character of his preaching may be pretty well ascertained, by an entry or two in Mr. Wesley's Journal. He says, — " Captain Webh preached at the Founderj-. I admire the wisdom of God in thus raising up various preachers, according to the various tastes of men. The captain is all life and fire ; therefore, although he is not deep, or regular, yet many who would not hear a better preacher, flock to hear him. And many are convinced under his preaching, some justified, a few huilt up in love." % " Captain Webb lately kindled a flame here, (Devizes,) and it is not yet gone out. Several persons were still rejoicing in God ; and the people, in general, were much quickened. I found his preaching in the street at Winchester had been blessed greatly. Many were, more or less, convinced of sin ; and several had found peace with God. I never saw the preaching-house so crowded before, with serious and attentive hearers." § At the period under review, the captain was stationed at Albany, the capital of the province of New -York ; and his appearance on the theatre must have created great * Baxgs's " History of Methodism in America," vol. i. pp. 47,48. f Idem, p. 46. § Idem, vol. iv. p. 261. Works," vol. m. p. 2H7. I :r: ? 'i "- .JH T .„. .i ! .i" ii tij — —,j|w P« V t .' ii 160 NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. interr<3t in the public mind. His rank in life, his military costume, — in which it seems he preached, — his dauntless resolution, his fervid spirit, would, in a thoughtless and dissipa'.ed population, succeed much more in rousing attention than regular ministrations, however plain or elo- quent. Accord'ngly, his preaching " drew many to the place of worship ; and the room where they assembled soon became too small to accommodate all who wished to hear. Sinners were awakened and convertc I to God, and added to the society. These, continuing to walk in the ' fellowship of the Holy Ghost,' were much strengthened and comforted ; while others, who beheld their godly con- versation, were convinced of the power and excellence of their religion." * The society of vlethodists was now fairly established, the instruments being, as we see, a timid local preacher, a faithful and heroic woman, and a brave, believing, and zealous military officer. The hired room now became too small for the congregation, and the next step in advance was to rent a riggiug-loft, in William-street. This place, like the other, soon becoming too strait, the people began to entertain the notion of building a preaching- house. *• While all were deliberating on the most suitable means to be adopted to accomplish an object so desirable, and even necessary for their con inued prosperity, an elderly lady, one of the Irish emi- grants before aieutioned, while fer/ently engaged in prayer for direction in this imi)ortani enterprise, received, with inexpressible sw^eetness and power, this answer, ' I the Lord will do it.' At the same time, a plan was presented to her mind, which, on being sub- mitted to the society, vas generally approved of, and finally adopted. They proceeded to issue a subscription-paper, waited on the mayor of the city, and other opulent citizens, to whom th ;y tvpuined their object, and from them received such liberal donations, as ^reatly encouraged them to proceed in their undertaking." This led to the erection of John-street chapel, sixty feet in length, and forty-two in breadth ; the people calling it, from respect for the venerable founder of Methodism, " Wes- ley Chapel." This was, most likely, the first chapel ever called by this name ; as, most assuredly, John Wesley would never allow either chapel, society, or any thing else, to be called after him, in England, so long as he lived, and possessed the power to present it. * Bangs's " History of Methodism in America," vol. i. pp. 49, 50. r mi WBomsm PART II. CHAPTER II. 161 The name of the above female has been happily rescued from oblivion. " The name of this pious woman was Hick, the mother of the late Paul Hick, who became a member of the Methodist Episcopal church in his youth ; and was subsetpiently a class-leader and trustee, in which offices he continued till near the close of life ; and finally died, in tfie triumph of laitli, in the seventy-fourth year of his age. He has children and graud-cliildren, now members of the church in the city of New- York. He has often conversed with the writer respecting the circumstances and incidents of those early days of Methodism, witn much api)arent delight and yratitude. When (juite a lad, his mother used to lead him l)y the hand to the meetings ; and, said he, ' the first sixpence [ could ever call my own, I put into the plate, which was carried around to receive the contributions of the people ; and I felt, i;i so doing, an inexjjressible pleasure.' God abundantly rewarded Mm in after-life with both temjjoral and spirit- ual blessings ; and he lived to see ' this seed of the kingdom spring up, and bear fruit, even a hundred-fold.'" * In the meantime Captain Webb continued his zealous labours vith great success. He preached in various places in Long Island, produced great awakenings amongst the people, and prei>ared tlie way for the forma- tion of societies. His love to the Saviour and the souls of men carried him to Phihdelphia, and he became the means oi' laying the foundation of a great Avork of God in the famous Quaker city. When, in l'](i9, the first missionaries, Messrs. lioardman and Pilmoor, landed at Ph''adelphia, they found the heroic c.iptain in the city zealously pursuing his course, and a society collected by his labours of upwards of one bunded members. Much about the time these things were taking place, another agent from Ireland, Robert Strawbridge, began to preach in Maryland with equal success. He settled, it seems, in Frederick County iu that State, and at first commenced preaching in his own house. These labours were soon enlarged, and, like his contemporaries in the work, he extendeo his) evangelical exertions to various parts of the country around, 'i'he success attendant on these efforts obliged our evangelist to turn his attention to the erection of a plac€ of worship, which he accom- plished at Pipe Creek, and Avhich passed under the name of the "•' log meeting-house." Tins fiist Methodist place of worshipiii Maryland became famous in itshistory, and several of the early Conferences were held within its " log" walls. * n.\'';tis'9 " ll'stoiy Ci Methodism in America," vol. i. pp. 50, 51. f 1 Hi vim t<'i m \m 162 NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. It was in the midst of these first and desultory laboursf of Mr. Strawbridge, that one of the earliest and most eminent of the native American ministers became ac- quainted with the way of salvation. Freeborn Gar- RETTSON met with Mr. Strawbridge at a friend's house in his own neighbourhood ; and this incident seems to be the first link in a chain of events, which led that excellent man to become one of the most honoured and successful pioneers in this great work. AVho does not feel a pleasure in searching out among elevated ridges the springs and rills which, in their course, constitute great rivers? It ni£y be in imagina- tion only ; but there is delight in sipping the water at the fountain-head, in spanning the tiny stream as it gurgles out of the rock, and then examining how it makes for itself a channel. There will in this be little to please the economist and the practical man. He only cares for results, for organizations, for a working power : the elements of things are nothing to him ; these he willingly gives up to prying curiosity. But it is clear enough that his favourite aggregations could have no existence A/ithout these elementary proc( sses ; the great has its origin in the little, as the river in the fountain ; the woodman's axe, the ploughman's art, the housewife's spinning-wheel, the hand-loom of the humble weaver, the rude log-hut, constitute the foundations of vhe most ad- vanced civilization. To despise, or even fo disregard, first efforts, indicates folly as well as pride. And iu despite of the generalizings of philosophy, it will be found, in fact, that the characters, the opinions, the modes of operation, the tools, so to speak, which are employed, the lines of labour marked out, and the genius, spirit, and soul of these first essays, will give their colour- ing, and even Ibrms, to all succeeding creations. This is evidently true in the case under consideration. Captain Webb seems to have been a perfect embodiment of the true genius and spirit of primitive Methodism. What the grave New-England religionists, and all men of their class, would consider its irregularity, enthusiasm, zeal, activity, and faith, — seems to have had a j)lace in the soul and life of this noble soldier of the Lord Jesus Christ. By reason of his leisure, property, and position, he possessed the means of more extensive labours than Philip Embury or llobert Strawbridge, These good men occupied a sort of pastoral function on a limited scale, PART II. CHAPTER II. 163 while the good captain acted as an evangelist, pressing into every open door, and boldly proclaiming the glad tidings of sjilvation. The writer of a letter to Mr. AVes- ley, signing himself T. T., dated New- York, April 11th, 1768, gives us some insight into the Captain's character and proceedings. " For some time few thought it worth their while to liear ; hut God so ordered it by his providence, that, about fourteen months ago. Captain Wel)b, barrack-master at Alljany, (who Avas converted three years ago in Bristol,) found them out, and })reached in his regimentals. The novelty of a man preaching in a scarlet coat soon brought greater numbers to hear than the room could contain. But his doctrines were quite new to the hearers ; for he told them point- blank, that all their knowledge and religion were not worth a rush, uidess their sins were forgiven, and they had the witness of God's Spirit with theirs that they were his children. This strange doc- trine, with some ))eculiarities in his person, made him soon taken notice of, and obliged the little society to look out for a larger house to preach in. Al)Out this period Mr. Webb, whose wife's I'elations lived at Jamaica, I ')ng Island, took a house in that neigh- bourhood, and began to ] I'each !'. his own house, and several oilier places on Long Island. Within six months, about twenty-four per- sons received justifying grace; nearly half of them whites, the rest Negroes. While Air. Webb was (to borrow bis own phrase) ' fell- ing trees on Long Island, brother Embury was exhorting all who attended on Thursday evenings, and Sundays, morning and evening, at the rigging-house, to tlee from the wrath to come.' It was the 2Gth day of October last when I arrived, recommended to a per- son for lodging. I inquired of my host, whu was a very religious man, if any Methodists were in New- York ; he answered that there was one Captain Webt), a strange sort of man, who lived on Long Island, and who somethnes preached at one Embury's at the rigging- house." It seeras that our good Captain not only laboured him- self, but exerted his influence to procure others to enter the field. He had an "impression" that Mr. Benson ought to go to America. The matter, as in all similar cases, was referred to Mr. "Wesley, who, in a letter dated March 2d, 1773, says, — " Certainly, you cannot stir, unless you are clearly satisfied of your call from God. An impression on the mind of another man is no ride of action to you. The reasons you give on the other side are weighty, and will not easily be answered." This call upon Mr. Benson by the captain, roused Charles Wesley, who, ii his usual style of frankness and energy, gives his notions of the captain's character. ^■ m 164 NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA " I have barely time to say, your own reasons for not yet going to America, and Christoplier lIoi)])er's, are unanswerable. Mr. F." (Mr. Fletcher, no doubt) "is only the captain's echo. The captain's im])ressions are no more, or very Uttle more, to be depended on than George Bell's. He is an inexperienced, honest, zealous, loving enthusiast. God only knows wliether you may not be called to America by and by. At present, your call is not clear ; therefore, stand still, and send our friends a loving, explicit refusal." It is singular enough, that whilst the several parties thus dealt with the captain's " impression," they all refer to the same principle. John Wesley thinks the " call," when divine, must be addressed to the person concerned, and not to another ; he is the party to be convinced, and to be persuaded. Charles is not sure but the " call" may come some time, and Mr. Benson may be sent to Ame- rica ; whilst he himself evidently refers to the same thing, only he argues, and that so conclusively as to convince the brothers, that to himself the " call" is not sufficiently clear and exjilicit. It would be difficult to prove that Captain Webb's " impression " in this case was a reverie, nn ill-founded piece of enthusiasm. Had his election fallen on some incompetent person, Charles Wesley's biting caus- tic might have been justly applied. But the "impression" referred to a man whose age, piety, learning, great preach- ing talents, practical wisdom, entire attachment to Me- thodist theology, and eminent controversial and lite- rary attainments ; — seemed in reason to point him out as the most suitable man in England for the work. Besides, there seems to have been a balance of judgment, two against two, — John and Charles Wesley against, and Cap- tain AVebb and Mr. Fl'^tcher in favour. IIow prescient is Providence ! Had Mr Benson gone to America, and taken the superintendence of the work, as he must have done, it is probable that his influence would have altered the whole aspect of things. Dr. Coke, in that casp, could have had no place In the organization of Methodism ; Francis Asbury mtst have been a secondary man ; and, with Mr. Benson's views ind opinions, it is extremely likely, not to say absolutely certain, that the Slethodist Kpiscopal Church would never, in its present shape, have existed. On what wonderful contingencies hang the great- est results ! These, then, are the agents, and this the beginning, of Methodism in America ; now grown to be by far the most numerous church in the United States. How diflfereut PART II. CHAPTER IT. 165 this commenoomont to any other religious formations in the country ! When the pilgrim fathers sailed in the "Mayflower" with her companion, they constituted a church, an ecclesiastical state. Some of the most eminent Christians, prohably, of the age accompanied the expedi- tion ; they were men of real greatness of mind and heart ; they held a doctrinal system, arranged, digested, j>ut into syllogistic order, and defended at ail points ; they had left their country for the sake of what they considered a prin- ciple, a truth, which they carried with them as a sacred deposit, '>s the ark of God ; the formalities of devotion and of religious rites attended every step ; and they seemed to act upon the conviction that they were going, in the name of their Divine IMaster, to take possession of a new " land of promise." We do not say they were mis- taken in their convictions, or that they failed in their anti- cipations ; all that is meant to he noticed is, that this was formal, and that the religion of the transaction possessed a shape, a plan. When W^illiam Penn took possession of Pennsylvania in the name of Quakerism, this was the case also. The Quaker king was himself a great man in every sense. In family connexions, in social rank, in all the qualities of the statesman, in knowledge and literary attainments, and actual standing in society, William Perm was a man to take rank with peers and princes, philosophers and statesmen. Religion, under the auspices of such a leader, has the appearance of a great interest, and likely to pros- per. It demands respect, and claims the approval of parties who look more at " the outward appearance," than abstract truth. And, moreover, though the forms of Quakerism were very different, as was its spirit also, from the Puritanism of the settlers of New- England, yet still it had its own peculiar garb, and presented itself to view as a visible embodiment of Christianity. Methodism began in America in a perfectly diff'erent manner. Its first disciples, we see, had no name, no rank, no means, no scholarship, no power, no human cre- dentials. It was introduced by a few poor, unknown, and unnoticed emigrants, who took their place amongst the common people, and occupied themselves in the menial affairs of life. The general population knew not that any parties lived amongst them of any remarkable stamp of character. Neither themselves nor the people for a mo- ment dreamt that they were the chosen apostles of God ( t" 166 NOTICES OP 3IETII0DISM IN x.?IERICA. to introduce a doctrine, a system, which, in the course of time, was destined to become a great churcli. There was certainly no design, and no kind of forethought of any results beyond present religious edification. Wiiat, then, gave Methodism its force, its momentum ? Un- questionably the truth and the Spirit of God in the first degree ; but then, it was truth unembarrassed, unsyste- matized ; truth in its simplicity. JMoreover, it Avas not the gospel in any gorgeous array of symbols or of orna- ment, it was one capital and experimental verity ; namely, the offer of the pardon of sin, with its attendant blessings. This was just about all that 'hese disci})le& of jMethodism knew, or could preach to otliers. But it is exactly such a doctrine as is calculated to arrest attention, to excite the soul to a profound thoughtfulness, to prepare the way for other enunciations ; and, by reason of its exact adaptation to man in his guilt and miseries, is likely, in the issue, to win numerous converts. Besides, thi'j single truth is in its nature gen.Jnant. Though but one in itself, it leads to every thing else. But how great the difference between the JNIethodist doctrine of the pardon of sin, and the Puritan doctrine of the decrees, and the Quaker doc- trine of the inward light ! Tlie founders of New England and its religion sought, by all possible means, to establish their repulsive system of election and reprobation ; and, as if to give practical eflPect to their doctrines, refused residence and neighbour- hood to every one, unless he believed their creed and belonged to their church. The Quaker-prophet taught the people to look within, and to unravel the right from the wrong, the good from the evil, the light from the darkness, the divine from the human ; and insisted that religion was of the nature of an internal oracle, which, if rightly con- sulted, wouid I'^ad to truth, virtue, and God. The Me- thodist, from the earliest period of his appearance in America, on the contrary, went about proclaiming pardon, justification, m freely procured by the death of Christ, and of^'ored to a»ll mon in the gospel. This was his mis- iion, ti. blessing he preached, the acceptance of which lie enfr»rced upon his audience ; teaching, at the same time, the mode of its attainment by faith, and pointing out its evidences and fruits. There is not so much in this to engage philosophy and excite admiration as in the other systems referred to ; but there is much more to meet the wants of mankind, to satisfy the cravings of the soul, PART II. CHAPTER II. 167 to ease the anguish of the conscience, and to lead to peace and holiness. Mr. Bancroft could not Avrite so splendid and philosophical a dissertation on the Methodist doctrine of pardon, as he has produced on the "inward light" of the Quaker system ; and yet this doctrine of pardon has done a thousand times more to evangelize his country, and gained a hundred-fold more disciples, than the system he so elo- quently eulogizes. But this doctrine is powerful, not simply because it is so well adapted to man's state : it is effective, because divine ; the very blessing of the gospel, to which the Holy Spirit gives his testimony and influence. No one can possibly account for the success of the early propagators of Methodistic doctrine, on any other principle than this. It owed next to nothing to its agents, but every thing to its own intrinsic truth ; — stripped of all efflorescent ver- biage, and rendered powerful by the blessing of God. The only external appliance which Methodism pos- sessed, at this first stage of its existence, was the class- meeting. Many parties will be unable to see any thing in this ; and some will smile or sneer, as the case may be. Be this as it may, there can be no doubt that these meetings collected the scattered rays of light into a focus, gave solidity to the work, and fostered the courage and confidence of the disciples ; strengthened, animated, and inflamed their piety and love; drew out their respective talents, whether for prayer, exhortation, or any other service ; and consolidated their means for exertion and usefulness. The social principle in religion is power, as well as in other things ; and it is especially neces- sary in the feeble commencement of any new undertaking. We have seen that Philip Embury and his companions had given Avay, when roused from their slumbers by the importunities of a more faithful female. The result was, the establishment of what is called '' a society;" and we hear no more of any vacillations. The members of the "little flock" looked after each other; became, in some sort, answerable for each other's character and piety ; assisted each other in their daily trials, and prompted each other "to love and to good works;" and, by these several means, gave solidity and strength to the whole v/ork. But this is not all ; these class-meetings became centres of life. Their several gifts were brought into exercise, and, consequently, improved ; and many of the members, as the result, became eminently useful, who would, probably, have remained in listless obscurity. i 168 NOTICES OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. ; *:i. These classes thus proved to be " schools of the prophets ; " and, like the fountain in the arid de- sert, sent forth their fertilizing waters to the regions around, giving religious verdure to places which must otherwise have remained in a state of barrenness and death. It results from all that we have seen, in connexion with the early stages of this great revival of religion on the continent of America, that, so far as human and ex- ternal means are concerned, it owes its origin and pro- gress to two very simple powers, — the doctrine of par- don, and the class-meeting. These, it may be thought by some, are inadequate means to produce such effects ; that, in point of fact, there must have been something more profound, more recondite. On examination, however, it will be perceived, that, in every thing divine, the declara- tion of the apostle is found true, " God hath chosen the weak things of this world to confound the mighty." The men first called by Christ to the apostolic office, were selected from amongst the common people ; the speech they employed was plain, pointed, and expressed in the idioms of the times ; the doctrines they taught were cer- tainly such as we have indicated, and were stated in a popular, and not a scholastic, style ; the societies estab- lished were evidently spiritual, practical meetings for merely religious purposes ; and the church-officers were men of plain sense, good character, and eminent sanctity; whilst their office itself only contemplated the promo- tion of piety, or relief to the poor. In this manner the Methodist societies were first formed, both in America and elsewhere. Their simplicity was their beauty, their glory, and their strength. This ill accords with the com- plexity of most ecclesiastical organizations; in which complexity many, though in great mistake, place their strength. In this work, then, there can be no ground for glorying in man. "Not by might, nor by" human "power," were the foundations of Methodism laid in the American colonies. This church can boast of no princely power, no noble patronage, no legislative provision, no chartered immunities, no domestic or foreign support. No apostolic man, linked in the chain of any kind of succession, laid the foundations of this gigantic fabric. The Methodist church cannot count back to a Peter or a Paul, like the pretence of Rome ; nor can they reckon on great traditional or historic characters, as coming from afar to plant the PART II. CnAPTl-.R III. 1()0 } gospel on their shores. The period will allow of no mystery ; no strange niissionfiry, as Patrick in Ireland, can ever be palmed on pul)lic crodulity, as the agent of this work; it is not, it cannot bo, lost in the dim distance of a remote antiquity. The curious can never dispute about the origin of the inovoment. IMiilip Embury, Robert Strawbridge, Captain Webb, and the " mother in Israel," mentioned before, instrumentally, laid the founda- tions of one of the most numerous, well-governed, ])ious, and useful Protestant churches in the Avorld ; and the powerlessness of the instruments must lead all to acknow- ledge, that this is indeed the " finger of God." Chap. III. — JjjjAicatinn to Mr. Wesley for Missioriarien — ^f('ssrn. Boardman and Pibnoor appointed — Jccotait of t/ie State of Things — Messrs. Asfjury and Wriglit — Jcconiit of ttie foriiier — The Spirit of the Clergy — Mr. Jarratt — Thomas Rankin and George Sliadford arrive — First Conference, "VVe now enter upon a new period in the progress of Methodism in America, — the period of more regular ministrations. In \'^ii% the society at New- York ad- dressed Mr. Wesky on the subject of sending them a minister. Tha writer above referred to, signing himself T. T., was their organ. " There is another point far more material, and in which I must importune your assistance, not only in my own name, l)ut also in the name of the whole society. Wa want an ahle and evpcrienced preacher ; one who has lioth gifts and grace necessary for the work. God has not, indeed, despised the day of small things. There is a real work of grace hegun in many hearts, hy the preach- ing of Mr. Wcbh and Mr. Embury ; but, altliough they arc both use- ful, and their hearts in the work, they want niany qualilications for such an undertaking; and the progress of the gospel here depends much upon the qualitications of preachers. " In regard to a preacher, if possible, we must have a man of wisdom, of sound faith, and a good disciplinarian ; one whose heart and soul are iii the work; and I doubt not b\it, by the goodness of God, such a flame will be soon kindled, as would never stop till it reached the great South Sea. We may make many shifts to evade temporal inconveniences ; but we cannot ])urchase such a i)reacher as I have described. Dear Sir, I entreat you, for the good of thou- sands, to use your utmost endeavours to send one over. With respect to money for the payment of the preacher's passage over, if they could not procure it, we would sell our coats and shirts to pro- cure it for them." 'M 170 NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. This letter led to the appointment of the first mission- aries from Engluncl. Mr. Wesley, referring to this in his Journal, says, — " Tuesday, August 1st, 1 "09. — Our Conference began in Leeds. On Thursday, I mentioned the case of oiu' brethren in New- York. For some years i)ast, several of our brethren from England and Ireland (and some of them preachers) had settled in North America, and had, in various places, fornuMl societies, jjarticularly in Philadelphia and New- York. The society at New-York liad lately built a com- modious i)reaching-house, and now desired help, being in great want of money, but nuich nu)re of ])reaehers. Two of our preachers, Richard Hoarchnan and Joseph Pilmoor, willingly ottered themselves for the service, by whom we determined to send over JL'50, as a token of our brotherly love." The two missionaries landed at Gloucester-Point, six miles below Thiladelphia, October 24th, 1769. This ought to be regarded as a red-letter day in the history of Methodism in America. It is the date of an era ; it marks the beginning of a direct connexion between the societies, and the father of the entire family ; and it also indicates the period of the admission of a new, a regula- ting power. Henceforward, the American societies be- came a part of the pastoral charge of Mr. Wesley and the British Conference ; and their history stands intimately connected with that of the entire body. On entering upon their duties, our missionaries di- vided ; Mr. Boardman taking New-York as the centre of his movements, and Mr. Pilmoor Philadelphia. But, adopt- ing the accustomed rule of itinerancy, they exchanged with each other at certain intervals ; thus giving vitality and interest to their work, by the effects of varied minis- trations. Mr. Pilmoor gave an account of the state of things in Philadelphia, in a letter, dated October 31st, 1769, only seven days after his arrival. He says, — '• By the blessing of God, we are safely arrived here, after a tedious \)assage of nine weeks. We were not a little surprised to find Cap- tain Webb in town, and a society of about one hundred members, who desire to be in close connexion with you. ' This is the Lord's doing, and it is marvellous in our eyes.' " I have preached several times, and the people flock to hear in nniltitudes. Sunday evening I went out upon the common. I had the stage appointed for the horse-race for my pulpit, and I think between four and tive thousand hearers, who heard with attention, still as night. Blessed be God for tield-prcaching ! When I began to talk of preaching at five o'clock in the morning, the people PAUT II. CHAPTER III. 171 tliouf^lit it would not answer in America; however, 1 resolved to try, and I liiid a very good congregation. " Tlicre seems to l)e a great and etroetual door opening in tliis country, and 1 lutpe many souls will he gathered in. Tiie people, in general, like to hear the word, and seciu to liave ideas of salvation hy grace." Mr. BcardmiiTi docs not write so soon; but on the 24tli of April, 1770, ho siiys, — •' Our liouse contains ahout seventeen huiulrod i)eople. Ahout a third part of those who attend get in ; the rest are glad to hear without. There a]»])ears such a willingness in the Americans to hear the word, as I never saw hefore. They have no preaching in some jjarts of tlie l)ack settlements. I doui)t not hut an effectual door will he ojjened among them. O may the Most High now give his Sou the heathen for his iidieritancc ! The numher of the blacks that attend tlie preaching ati'ects me much." It is seen by this, that Pliih'p Embury and Captain "Webb liad done good service. A third preaching-place, holding seventeen hundred persons, was no mean triumph, for the circumstances in which they were placed. In the following year another, the most important actor who ever appeared from England in America, took his place on the continent, — Francis Asbuuy, accompanied by Richard Wright. As IMr. Asbury became so conspi- cuous a leader in the affairs of Methodism, it may be as well to give his own .account of his early life. Mr. Asbury tells us, he was born near the foot of Ilampstead-Bridge, in the parish of Ilandsworth, four miles from Birmingham, on the 2()th or 21st of August, 1745. His father and mother, Joseph and Elizabeth Asbury, " were in common life, but remarkable for honesty and industry." On the death of an only daughter in childhood, his mother " sunk into deep distress, from which she was not relieved for many years." Under this dispensation, " God was pleased to open the eyes of her mind, and she now began to read almost incessantly, strongly urging her husband to adopt family reading and pravf'^," This affected young Francis; and he tells us, th it iiom childhood he neither " Dared an oath, nor hazarded a lie." Beinp: rent to school early, he learned to read the Bible, and took " great delight in the historical parts." His master, proving a great " churK" and using him "cruelly," filled him with such " horrible dread," that it seems he made his escape from this tyranny. This was the amount I 2 'l IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h A :/. 1.0 I.I 25 "^1^ I |5o ""^" lina^ 2.0 IL25 II 1.4 14 1.6 HioiDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST tlAHN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14 .C (716) 873-4503 # A^ q N> V "<^V ^•^' >J!«^ 4^ ■^ % ^ % Ci^ 172 NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. i (i ('■^ ■ of Lis education ; we hear no more of school. He then " lived some time in one of tlie wealthiest and most ungodly families in the parish ;" and became "vain, hut not openly wicked." When betwixt thirteen and fourteen, he was *' put to learn a branch of business, at which he wrought six years and a half," enjoying great liberty in the family, and was "treated more like a son than an apprentice." AVhen fourteen years of age, he was awakened by the instrumentality of a " pious man, not a Methodist," who was invited by his mother to visit the family for reli- gious purposes. He began to attend West-Bromwich church, hearing several evangelical ministers, and read all the good books he met with. He now inquired of his mother, "who, where, and what were the Methodists?" and she dijecting him to " a person who could conduct him to Wednesbury to hear them," we find him for the first time at this place. " The people were devout, men and women kneeling down, saying. Amen" They sung hymns, " sweet sound ;" the preacher had " no Prayer- Book, and yet he prayed wonderfully;" and, more extra- ordinary, " he took his text, and preached, and yet had no sermon-book." " He talked about confidence, assurance, of which," he sa^s, "all my flights and hopes fell short." He adds, " I had no deep convictions, nor had I committed any deep known sins. At one sermon, some time after, my companion was powerfully wrought on : I was exceedingly grieved that I could not weep like him ; yet I knew my- self to be in a state of unbelief. On a certain time, when we were praying in my father's barn, I believe the Lord pardoned my sins, and justified my soul." He was now " free from guilt and fear, and had power over sin, and felt great inward joy." He now began to " hold meet- ings" with his companions, who were " much persecuted ;" the people opening their houses were obliged to close them again. Being driven from these places, he " held meetings " at his father's house, and went also to Sutton- Colefield for the same purpose, " several souls professing to find peace." He had preached some months before he publicly appeared in the "Methodist meeting-houses;* and when his labours became more public and extensive, " some were amazed ; not knowing how he had exer- cised elsewhere." He now became a local preacher, " the humble and willing servant of any and of every preacher that called on him by night or by day ; being ready, with hasty steps, to go far and wide to do good." Thus called, PART II. CHAPTER III. 173 he " visited Derbyshire, Staffordshire, "Warwickshire, Wor- cestershire," " preaching, generally, three, A)ur, and five times a week, and, at the same time, pursuing his calling."* The account of his entrance on his American Mission must be given in his ovvn words. "On the 7th of August, 1771, the Conference began at Bristol, in England. Before this, I had felt for half a year strong intima- tions in my mind, that I shouhl visit America ; which I laid before the Lord, l)eing unwilling to do my own will, or to run before I was sent. During this time my trials were very great, which the Lord, I believe, permitted to prove and try me, in order to prepare me for future usefulness. At the Conference it was proposed, that some preachers should go over 1 1 the American continent. I spoke my mind, and made an otfer of myself. It was accei)tcd l)y Mr. Wesley and others, who judged I had a call. From 13ristol, I went home to acquaint my parents with my great undertaking, which I opened in as gentle a manner as possible. Though it was grievous to flesh and blood, they consented to let me go. My mother is one of the tenderest parents in the worhl ; but I believe she was blessed in the present instance with divine assistance to part with me. I visited most of my friends in Statfordshire, Warwickshire, and Gloucester- shire, and felt much hfe and power among them. Several of our meetings were held, indeed, in the spirit and life of God. Many of my friends were struck with wonder, vhen they heard of my going ; hut none opened their mouths against it, hoping it was of God. Some wished that their situation would allow them to go with me. " I returned to Bristol in the latter end of August, where Richanl Wright was waiting for me, to sail in a few days for Philadelphia. Wlien I came to Bristol, I had not one penny of money ; but the Lord soon opened the hearts of friends, who supi)lipd me with clothes, and £10 : thus I found, by experience, that the Lord will provide for those who trust in him. " On WednescLiy, Scptem])er 2d, we set sail from a port near Bris- tol ; and, havii\g a good wind, soon passed the Channel. For three days I was very ill with the sea-sickness ; and no sickness I over knew was equal to it. The captain behaved well to us. On the Lord's day, September 8th, brother W. preached a sermon on deck, and all the crew gave attention. "Thursday, 12th. 1 will set down a few tilings that lie on my mind. Whither am I going ? To the New World. What to do ? To gain honour ? No ; if I know my own heart. To get money } No ; I am going to live to God, and to bring others to do so. In America there has been a work of God : some moving first amongst the Friends, but in time it declined ; likewise by the Presbyterians, but amongst them also it declined. The people God owns in Eng- land are the Methodists. The doctrines they preach, and the dis- cipline they enforce, are, I believe, the purest of any people in the ♦ Asdury's Journal, vol. ii. pp. 133 — 130. mmmm mi mm mm^mm 174 NOTICES OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. :lr 1 ■world. The Lord has greatly blessed these doctrines and this dis- cipline in the three kingdoms : they must therefore be pleasing to him. If God does not acknowledge me in America, I will soon return to England. I know my views are upright now : may they never be otherwise !" * This is the spirit in which this apostle of Methodism in America began his work, and which only terminated with his life, — an eventful period of forty-four years. There were now four missionaries from England in America ; and their number was increased by the addition of Robert Williams and John King, emigrants from the mother- country. The band of brothers evidently laboured together, in general, harmoniously, and with equal success. The only difference amongst them seems to have been, on the subject of country work. Mr. Asbury thought his bre- thren were too fond of remaining in the large towns, whilst he felt, in ihe spirit of a true evangelist, that, in order to secure the objects of their mission, it was neces- sary that the villages and country places should share their attention, and enjoy the benefit of their ministra- tions. Witji these convictions, he determined to sally forth; and from this time we find him prosecuting his itinerant labours with indefatigable zeal,— ^rushing into every open door, and, where an entrance could not be found, endeavouring to make one. On this subject his remarks are pertinent. On November 20th, he writes : — " I am in York, though unsatisfied with our being both in town together. I have not yet the thing I seek, — a circulation of l)reachers to avoid partiality and popularity. However, I am fixed to the Methodist plan, and do what I do faithfully as to God At present I am dissatisfied. I judge we are to be shut up in the cities this winter. My brethren seem unwilling to leave the cities ; but I think I shall show them the way. I am in trouble, and more trouble is at hand ; for I am determined to make a stand against all partiality. I have nothing to seek but the glory of God, nothing to fear but his disj)leasure. I am come over with an upright intention, and, through the grace of God, I will make it appear ; and I am determined that no man shall bias me with soft words and fair speeches : nor will I ever fear (the Lord helping me) the face of man, or know any man after the flesh, if I beg my bread from door to door ; but, whomsoever I please or displease, I will be faithliil to God, to the people, and to my own soul." Here we have the moral elementa forming the charac- ter of Francis Asbury. Firmness, fearlessness, integrity, * Journal, vol. i. pp. 1, 2. PART 11. CHAPTER III. i:r> singlenesb of eye for the glory of God, an intense love to the souls of men, faithfulness to the leading idea of Methodism, happiness in lahour; — from which he never deviated to the end of life. Such was the man called of Providence to take the lead in this enterprise, in great measure to guide its counsels, and to become its chief apostle. At this period the Methodist preachers in America, as well as in England, considered themselves connected with the church. Two incidents may be mentioned to show how they fared with diflFerent classes of the clergy. In Kent county, Mr. Asbury relates, that he was encoun- tered by Mr. R., a church minister. " He charged me with making a schism. I told him that I did not draw the people from the church, and asked him if his church was then open. He tben said, that I hindered the people from their work. I asked him if fairs and horse-races did not hinder them ; and farther told him, that I came to help him. He said, he had not hired me for an assistant, and did not want my help. I told him, if there were no swearers or other sinners, he was sufficient. ' But,' said he, * what do you come for ? ' I replied, * To turn sinners to God.' He said, 'Cannot I do that as well as you.'' I told him that I had authority from God. He then laughed at me, and said, * You are a fine fellow, indeed ! ' I told him I did not do this to invalidate his authority ; and also gave him to understand, that I did not wish to dispute with him ; but he said, he had business with me, and came into the house in a great rage. I began to preach, and to exhort the people to repent, and turn from aP their tranpr^ressions, so iniquity should not prove their ruin. After preaching, the parson went out, and told the people they did wrong in coming to hear me ; and said, I spoke against learning; wlicreas, I only spoke to this purpose : When a man turned from all sin, he would adorn every character iu life, both in church and state." This sort of clergy generally predominated in the southern provinces ; but Mr. Jarratt, of Virginia, was an exception. " Ur.der his preaching there was a considerable revival at a place called White Oak. In imitation of Mr. Wesley and his preachers, Mr. Jarratt formed those who were awakened to a sense of their danger into a society, that they might assist each other in working out their salvation. The good effects of these meetings were so apparent, in producing the fruits of ' good living,' that they were encouraged, and the revival went on gradually, chiefly under the labours of Mr. Jarratt, from 1771 to 1773, spreading from fifty to sixty miles in the region round about."* This good man identified himself with Methodism, ♦ Bangs's " History of Methodism in America," vol. i. p. 76. RK 176 NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. afforded his countenance and encouragement to the preachers, himself took part in their labo irs, attended some of tlieir early meetings in Conference threw open his door for their entertainment ; and, in fact, became to the infant cause in America exactly what Mr. Fletcher of Madeley, or Grimshaw of Haworth, were to the Method- ists of England in their day. In June, 1773, two other raission.iries, Thomas Rankin and George Shadford, landed in Philadelphia ; and as Mr. Rankin had travelled several years longer in England than Mr. Asbury, Mr. Wesley appointed him the general assistant (superintendent) of the societies in America. Mr. Runkin seems to have received, with the superin- tendency, full powers from Mr. Wesley to hold a Confer- ence. Accordingly, we find, the first Conference ever held in America was convened to meet at Philadelphia, in July, 1773. Up to this time the business of the church had been transacted at the Quarterly-Meetings. At this Conference we find the following questions and answers : — " 1. Oii;rht not the authority of Mr. Wesley and that of [theEng^- lish] Conference to extend to the preachers and people in America, as well as Great Britain and Ireland ? " Ans. — Yes. " 2. Ought not the doctrine and discipline of the Methodists, as contained in the Minutes, to be the sole rule of our conduct, who lal)our in the Connexion with Mr. Wesley in America ? <( Ans. — Yes. " 3. If so, does it not follow, that if any preachers deviate from the Minutes, we can have no fellowship with them till they change their conduct ? " Ans.— Yes." The following rules were agreed to by the preachers present : — " 1. Every preacher who acts in connexion with Mr, Wesley, and the brethren who labour in America, is strictly to avoid administer- ing the ordinances of baptism and the Lord's supper. " 2. All the people among whom we labour to be earnestly exhorted to attend the church, and to receive the ordinances there ; Imt in a particidar manner to press the people in Maryland and Vir- ginia to the observance of this minute." Thus the Methodist system was fairly established, and its discipline agreed upon, by the consent of the brethren. Mr. Rankin is reported to have been a stern disciplina- rian of the Presbyterian cla^s; a Scotchman by birth I I>ART 11. CHAPTER IV. 177 and education, and somewhat inflexible in his character, after the manner of his countrymen. The above resolutions were ot passed without debate, or carried into effect without opposition. There seems to have been no demur in regard to the authority of Mr. Wesley and the British Conference ; but on the question of the sacraments, the feeling was not equally unanimous. Some of the brethren, as Mr. Strawbridge, had been in the habit of administering these sacred rites to the satis- faction of the people, so that the rule on the subject came into collision with the practice of some of the societies. On other points there was some dift^erence of opinion, and the New- York people threatened to shut the doors of their chapel against Mr. Rankin. These differences gra- dually subsided, and by the careful enforcement of disci- pline, together with the faithful ministerial labours of the preachers, order became predominant, and pros])erity attended the work. By the merciful ordination of Divine Providence, this work of union took effect at the right time. Events of a distressing character were ap- proaching ; and if this consolidation had not been then attained, the probability is, that it would not have been secured for many years, if at all. Peace being established, the brethren had time to extend their evangelical labours through various portions of the provinces of New- York, Virginia, Maryland, Long Island, Delaware, the Jerseys, Pennsylvania, as well as in the cities. From what fol- lowed, it almost seemed as if Mr. Rankin had received an especial commission to grapple with the incipient disorders which had unhappily crept in, and establish on a firm foundation the whole Methodist system, before the revolutionary hurricane broke out. Chap. IV. — The revolutionary Period — Mesftrs. Rankin, Shadfurd, and Rodda depart for England — Jdventures of Shailford — .■Ih- bury determines to remain — //« Exercises of Mind — Finds Refuge in the House of Judge White — Persecutions of Messrs. f fart ley and Garrettson — Mr. JarratVs Account of a Revival of Religion in Virginia — Reflections on the Revolution — John Calvin's Dogma — Originates the Revolution Its Success. We now approach the revolutionary period, which, to the infant Methodist church, was a sore trial. With the English preachers a point of conscience of a very per- plexing nature at once arose. The Americans began their work by resolving themselves into an independent confe- I 5 / !l 1 i 178 NOTICBg OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. deration, in these words, "Resolved, that these united colonies are, and of right ought to be, free and independ- ent states ; that they are absolved from all allegiance to the British crowr ; and that all political connexion be- tween them and the state of Great Britain is, and ought to be, totally dissolved." This instrument bears date July 2d, 177^.* This, of course, left British subjects no choice ; they were either obliged to renounce their allegiance to their own sovereign, leave the country, or evade the laws by concealment. All the preachers, except Mr. Asbury, chose at once to retum home. But this wjis evidently a great exercise of their feelings. They delighted in their work, saw much good going on, and had the prospect of witnessing the spread of religion on a magnificent scale. The agitations of mind and positive dangers to which these good men were exposed, are truly aifecting. On Tuesday, May 16th, 1775, Mr. Rankin remarks : — " The preachers came together from their different circuits, and next day we l)cgan our httle Conference. We conversed together, and conchidcd our husiness in love. Mr. Strenger spent some time with us. We all came unanimously to the conclusion to follow the advice that Mr. Wesley and his brethren had given us, and leave the event to God. We had abundant reason to bless God for the increase of his work last year. We had above a thousand added to the different societies, and they had increased to ten circuits. Our joy in God would have been abundantly more, had it not been for the preparations of war that now rang throughout this city. (Phila- delphia) I endeavoured to open up and enforce the cause of our misery. I told them that the sins of Great Britain and her colonies had long called aloud for vengeance, and in a particular manner the (b-eadful sin of buying and selling the souls and bodies of the poor Africans, the sons and daughters of Ilam." How singular that we should find, in the midst of these notes of civil war, the following entry ! — " I called at Mr. Fairfax's, (a relation of old Lord Fairfax,) a gen- tleman of large estate, and who of late years had been savingly brought to the knowledge of the Lord Jesus Christ. He was over at Baltimore at our little Conference ; and at the lovefeast that fol- lowed, he spoke of what God had done for his soul with such sim- plicity and unction from on high, as greatly affected every one who heard him. May he live to be an ornament to the gospel of the Lord Jesus ! " f * " The Constitution of the United States of America." By W. IIlCKEY. t Rankin's Journal, in Jackson's " Lives of Early Methodist Preachers," vol. ii. pp. 189—191. I PART II, CHAPTER IV. 170 Mr. Rankin seems to have made his escape on pretty easy terms ; but George Shadford was called to encounter more formidable difficulties. He says, — " The next summer and winter I spent in Marjland ; the winter on the eastern shore, where I could labour and be at peace : but as the test-oath must take place there also, I was brought to a strait. I had sworn allegiance to the king twice, and could not swear to renounce him for ever. I dare not play with fast-and-loose oaths, and swallow them in such a manner. We could not travel safe without a pass, nor have a pass without taking the oaths. At our Quarterly Meeting, I said to brother Asbury, ' Let us have a day of fasting and prayer, that the Lord may direct us ; for we never were in such circumstances as now, since we were Methodist preachers.' We did so ; and in the evening I asked him how he had found his mind. He said he did not see his way clear to go to England. I told him I could not stay, as I believed I had done my work here at present ; and that it was as much impressed upon my mind to go home now, as it had been to come over to America. He replied, ' Then one of us must be under a delusion.' I said, ' Not so ; I may have a call to go, and you to stay ; ' and I believe we both obeyed the call of Providence. We saw we must part, though we loved as David and Jonathan. And indeed these times made us love one another in a peculiar manner. how glad were we to meet, and pour our grief into each other's bosom ! " Myself and another set oif, having procured a pass from a colonel, to travel to the general ; and, arriving at the head-quarters, we inquired for General Smallwood's apartments ; and, being admitted to his pre- sence, and asked our business, we told his Excellency that we were Eng- lishmen, and both Methodist preachers ; and, as we considered ourselves subjects of Great Britain, we could not take the test-oath ; therefore should be very glad to return home to our native land. ' We cast our- selves,' we added, ' wholly upon your Excellency's generosity, and hope, as you profess to be fighting for your liberties, you will grant us to have a pass to have liberty to return to our own land in peace.' He answered roughly, ' Now you have done us all the hurt you can, you want to go home.' I told him our motive had been to do good ; for this end we left our own country', and had been travelling through the woods for several years, to seek and to save that whirh was lost. It was true, we could not beat the political drum in the pulpit, preaching bloody sermons, because we considered ourselves messengers of peace, and called to preach the gospel of peace. At last he told us he would give us a pass to the English, if we would swear we would go directly to Philadelphia, and from thence embark to Great Britain. He then swore us, and generously gave us our liberty without any further trouble."* ^ The danger, however, was riot at an end. The same night, Mr. Shadford tells us, that " a man leaped from * Jackson's " Lives of Early Methodist Preachers." , ,11 I ! 180 NOTICES OF METHODISM IN AMERICA. behind a bush with his gun loaded and cocked," and, pre- senting it " at his breast, swore, like a fiend," that if he did not stop he should be a dead man. This man finally " dropped his gun," and allowed the Methodist preacher to take his dq)arture. The next day he got to Chester "with his saddle-l)ag8 upon his back;" and, at night, " crept on his liands and knees on a narrow plank to that part of the bridge that remained standing, and got his horse over the next morning." He arrived at Phila- delphia the next day, and met three or four preachers who, like himself, " were refugees." They remained six weeks in Philadelphia, then took ship for Cork, thence to Wales, and finally for Bristol ; and Mr. Shadford " felt a very thankful heart when he set foot on English ground, in a land of peace and liberty, where was no alarm of war or bloodshed." The stout-hearted Francis Asbury was a man of ano- ther mould ; he would neither take the " test oath," nor return to his native land. He resolved to brave all diffi- culties, remain at his post, and serve his brethren and the cause of his Divine Master as best he could. There is something remarkable in the incidents connected with the final settlement of this apostle of Methodism in America. Before the war broke out, there was evidently some mis- understanding between Mr. Rankin* and Mr. Asbury; and Mr. Wesley again and again recalled the latter, but he firmly, though no doubt respectfully, refused to obey.t Let us listen to the noble sentiments of this true man on the subject of deserting the work in America. " I received a letter from Mr. T. R., (no doulrt Rankin,) in which he informed me, that himself, Mr. R., (Rodda,) and Mr. D., (Demp- ster,) had consulted, and deliberately concluded it would he best to return to Englan(L But I can by no means agree to leave such a field for gathering souls to Christ as we have in America. It would he an eternal dishonour to the Methodists, that we should all leave three thousand souls who desire to commit themselves to our care ; neither is it the part of a good shepherd to leave his flock in time of danger ; therefore I am determined, by the grace of God, not to leave them, let the consequence be what it may. Our friends here * See Letters to Rankin, Wesley's Works, vol. xii. pp. SO** -310. t The first time I ever saw David M'NicoU, when very young, I have a distinct recollection that he said of his countryman, Rankin, that he was Mr. Wesley's cat's-paw. Great men generally have this kind of animal attached to them, often without any design of their own. PART II. CHAPTER IV. 101 api)eare(l to be distressed above measure, at tbc thougbts of being forsalteii bv tbe i)reacbers. So I wrote my sentiments both to Mr. R. and Mr. G. S."* Being soon after this left to himself, as far as regards the English preachers, it seems from his journal that ho suffered great perplexity and agitation of mind. But he continued through the >vhole period to breathe a noble spirit of piety and devotedness to God. His apprehen- sions of God, the strength and stability of his faith, the tenderness of his spirit, the regularity and fervour of his prayers, (determining to spend ten minutes in every hour in this exercise,) fed his piety, and strengthened his resolution. And then the remarkable caution, forbear- ance, and prudence he manifested ; the ardent, untiring, steady zeal which moved in him with the regularity of the pulse of life ; the heroism of his soul in all possible sufferings and perplexing difficulties ; the decision he con- tinued to manifest, in the midst of great temptations to deviate, in support of the doctrines and discipline of Methodism ; and then his indefatigable labours in tra- velling and preaching, — are all points of excellency, which are finely and fully brought out by these trying events. Mr. Asbury was, moreover, evidently a man of much sorrow. The depth of his feelings corresponded with the eminence of his piety, and the delicacy of his spirit- ual affections. Instead of manifesting any thing like exultation or bravado in his differences with Rankin, and the part he was obliged to take during the troubles of the war, we find his spirit is prostrate in the dust, his soul lacerated with feelings of anguish, and he is con- stantly heard to sigh after the rest and peace of heaven ; very often uttering his wishes in the pathetic language of Charles Wesley's poetry. The outward incidents of his life, in these eventful years, are as nothing compared with the spiritual, the sublime, exercises of his mind. In the case of those who are in the hands of God, every thing turns to good account. Baxter conceived the idea of his Saints' Rest at 3Ielboume-Hall in a state of great debi- lity, and when unable to perform more active service; and John Bunyan wrought out his wonderful dream, the "Pilgrim's Progress," in Bedford jail. Though Francis Asbury did not write a book in the seclusion into which, for a part of the time, he was driven ; yet he diligently I * Journal, vol. i. pp. 118, 119. 182 NOTICES OP METHODISM IN AMERICA. I 1 !, I, 'i i i i improved his time in reading and study, so as to attain a fitness for his subsequent work, which probably he wouM not have so fully possessed without these trials. In nothing does this eminent servant of the Lord Jesus appear so great as in his spiritual character and walk with God ; and perhaps these excellencies sliine forth in more lustre and strength at this period than at any other of his life. Refusing to take the oath required in the provinces in which he had spent most of his time, Mr. Asbury retired to Delaware, and was most hospitably entertained and pro- tected in the house of Judgo AV^hite, for about twelve months. He gives the following account of his reasons for this step : — "From March, 1778, on conscicntioMS principles, I was a non- juror, and could not preach in tlic State of Maryland, and, there- fore, withdrew to the Delaware State, where the clergy were not required to take the atate-oath ; though, with a clear conscience, I coidd liavc taken the oath of the Delaware State, had it heen required; and would have done it, had I not been prevented by a tender fear of hurting the scrupulous consciences of others. St. Paul saith, ' When ye sin so against the brethren, and wound their weak consciences, ye sin against Christ.'"* It seems that from this retreat he occasionallv sallied forth, and ventured to preach and visit the people. We give a specimen or two, abridged from his Journal, of his spiritual exercises, and occasional public duties. Some of these exercises are truly affecting. He says,— " I was under some heaviness of mind ; hut it was no wonder, — three thousand miles from home, — my friends have left me. I am considered by some as an enemy of the country, every day liable to be seized by violence, and abused. However, all this is but a trifle to suffer for Christ and the salvation of souls. Lord, stand by me. . . I applied myself to the Greek and Latin Testaments ; but this is not to me like preaching the gospel. However, when we caiuiot do what we would, we must do what we can To make the best of my time in this partial confinement, I have attended closely to my studies, spent some time in instructing the children, and intend to lecture frequently in the family Blessed be God ! his provi- dence ha*h cast my lot in a quiet, agreeable family, where I can make the best improvement of my time in study and devotion. This was a day of much divine power and love to my soul. I was left alone, and spent part of every hour in prayer ; and Christ was very near and precious I then rode on through a lone- some, devious road, like Abraham, not knowing whither I went ; but, * Journal, vol. i. p. 208. PART II. CnAPTER IV. IBS ays,— uler, — I am able to a trifle 1 me. . . ) is not what of my to my end to provi- I can votion. ^ soul. Christ a lone- but, weary and unwell, I found a shelter late at night ; and there I intended to rest, till Providence should direct my way At night a rejmrt was spread, which inclined me to tliiiik it would he most pnident for me to move tin; next day. Accordingly, I set out after dinner, and lay in a swamp till about siiiiset ; hut was then kindly taken in by a friend I jiromiscd (Jod, that if he would lift me tip, 1 woidd be wholly his, and spend as nuich time in returning thanks, as I have spent in seeking his ])rotcclion, which has been some part of every hour. 1 felt strong confidence in (iod, that he would deliver me, being conscious that I sought neither riches nor honour ; and what I suffered was for the sake of his sj)iritual church, and the salvation of my fellow-men My heart was kept j)ure, and panting after (Jod, though F was, in some sense, a prisoner, rather than sacrifice the peace of my conscience, and offend my God. (), my Jiord, guide thy jioor jtilgrim thvoii^' lie rugged ways of this ungodly and dangerous world ! And if I s IV'r with Christ here, may I finally reign with him in glory ! The Lord makes groat discoveries of my defects and short-cr">iiiigs in many points, lie melts my heart with humility and ter^.t ness, lie graci- ously draws me nearer and nearer to himself, tills me with ihe spirit of holy ice God was my portion, and my s