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Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la m6thode. ata slure, 3 2X 1 2 3 4 5 6 64 [part ii] No. U. REPORT OF WM. OGILVIE. MXPLOBATION SUaVET OP THB TUKON BIVKE DISTRICT. "^ ° ' Sir, — I have the honor to Bubmit the following preliminary report of the opra- tions of ray exploration Borvey of the Yukon Biver Distriot. In aocordance with yoar instructions, dated the I6th of April, 188*7, I left Ottawa on April the 20th and arrived in Victoria, B.C., on the 2nd of May. I at once pro- eroded to make arrangements for tavelling to the scene of ray survey, and hired six men to accompany me, three being required for the survey proper and three for transporting supplies. Wo left Victoria on the afternoon of the 12th of May, on the Pacific Steamahip Company's steamer " Ancon," which was so heavily laden that I had considerable difScuity in pursuading the captain to take on board my freight, and party. Our trip was a very slow one, we did not reach Juneau City, Alaska, until tho night of the 19th of May, and next day the steamer, instead of going to Ohilkoot, as we had understood she would do, proceeded to Sitka, where wo remained for a day. Fart of another day was spent at Kilisnoo, so that we did not arrive at Chilkoot until the i!4th of May. At this point £ made preparations for commend ni:; my survey, but owing to wet, stormy weather three days were lost. I then got the survey started from Pyramid Island, in Chilkoot Inlet, a point determined by the United Slates Coast Survey. From this point I carried ihr^ survey across the inlet, and thonce up it, and Taiya Inlet, and the valley of the Taiya River, to the Chilkoot or Taiya Pass through the coast range of mountains. I here detailed one of my party (Captain Moore) to explore a pass a short dis* tanco south of the Chilkoot Pass ; this route loaves Taiya Inlet about two miles from its head and fbllows up the valley of the Skaghway River to its source, and thence down the valley of a stream which empties into Lake Tahko. Captain Mooie reports this pass as being much lower than the Chilkoot Pass, »nd he thinks it is not any highei at the summit than Lake Lindeman. It is timbered throughout, and he estimates the distance from tide water to the summit at eighteen miles, and from the summit to Lake Tahko at about twenty*two to. twenty- four mites. He has had considerable experience in mountain trails, having built the Government trail in Cassiar district, Brtish Columbi:;, and ho thinks a trail oould be built through this pass much more easily than the one constructed in Casdiar district, and a waggon road more easily than the one constructed through the canyon of the Fraser River. I believe that this pass has not been named, and think that the party I sent through wore the first white men who ever travelled throuirh it ; I have tberefora taken the liberty of naming it the " White Pass," afi;er the Uonorable the Minister of the Interior, and I hope the name will be retained. Some seventeen mi!)erB passed into the interior by the .Chilkoot Pass while I was in that vicinity. The Chilkoot Indians claim the exclusive privilege of packing goods over Ohilkoot Pass, and they demanded $20 per hundred pounds to transport my supplies from the head of tide water to the nead of the Lewis River. I made an agreement with them to pack my outfit and supplies to the summit of the Pass for 110 per hundred pounds, and from there I arranged with my own party, assisted by some iuterior [part ii] 6& 7 the opra- \ Ottawa onco pro- hired six ;hroe for teamahip leidorable nntil the ilkoot, as for a day. coot until If; to wet^ Pyramid rvey. ip it, and 3 through short dia- iiles from ad thence coot Pass, timbered ; eighteen twenty- ring built rail oould n Castiiar le canyon rty I sent tboreforo I Miniiiter BS while I rOhilkoot )liea from nent with hundred le interior Canadiflti Indians, to transport our goods to the lakes, at a cost of t3 per hundred poiiiids, making a total cost of $13 per hundred pounds for the same distance for wbi' h the Chilkoot Indians wanted S:^0. To assist in moving supplies, &g., I purchased some sledges on the Taiya Eiver. Fortunately for the success of this expedition the United States steamer "Pintra" was lying at the head of the inlet when I arrived, and her commander, Captain Newell, showed me every kindness and consideration, and did everything in his power to make things smooth with the Indians. He saw "Clenat," the chief of the packers, several times, and told him that though he had not the power to fix his prices for I)acking, he thought he was charging too much, and that it would result in his Obin^ his carrying trade, as he would force white men to seek tome other route into the interior. He also told him that he must not in any way interfere with white man doing their owr packing, as he was reported to have done, or molest any of those whom they might employ to pack for thorn, and assured him that I had a permit from Washington to pass safely through the country, and that he would see that I did bo. Captain Newell promised me that liis vessel would remain at the head of the inlet until he heard that the Indians b?d satisfactorily carried out their agree- moiit, and had returned to the inlet. By the 8th of Juno my supplies and outfit were all carried to the summit of the Chilkoot Pass; the weather then became slotmy and the Indians would not work for some days, aO that it was the 2Tth of June bctore I got everything down to the firbt lake. I tried packing with my own party, and succeeded in getting a quantity of supplies down, but tiie toft vol snow soon i:iskI the men up; at one time only two men and myself were fit to do anything. 1 worked as hard as any of them, but was better provided with foolweiii-. A good deal of difBoul'y was experienced in carrying'the survey across the moin> lairs, but I am glad to fay it was Huoccssfully accomjilishod. I had. however, to use some very long sights, one of which was six miles in length. In thtte cases I used a long base for the micrometer moasuromo'its (in the case cited one of 188 links wtis used), and it is gratifying to uotci that tho li3ni;tb deduced from the long base differed very little from that given by the 2U link bsifc. I find the distances, allitudoH ana doscrip'ions of tho Chilkoot Pa-s, as given by Sthwatkti, considerably in error, and tlio (iantrcr-i desdibod by him rather fanciful ; the most disugreeablo things wo oxpciicrt ed in travoliii g throi f^h tho pass were the rain a» d snow which (oil uimo>l cuiitiiiuoiibly wLm* we were there. Be^'iiining I'lom tho summit of Chilk'Ot Pu8(* w.i de-ccnd about one-third of a mile to Crater Luke, tho tall in thut di^tl;rico being by barometer 367 feet. At four and one-half miles from tho summit Mountain Lake, which is about one and a half miles in lomtth, is reached, the tall in tiiis distamo being about 575 feet, At this point the tiisl trees on tho north east sidj of the summit are seen, but they are of no importance, being small and of stunted growth. About on»! hundred yuris from Mountain Lake, Canyon Lake is roach<'d. This lake is about one milo lon()0 ibiksTiiiya Uivor 8 ..0 Hiirnniit of puss 1.^) lo Liiiuling on Lake Lindeman.,, , 'Zy'ib 11-5** 66 [part IIJ I From the eammit to Lake Lindeman there is a descent, approximately, by my barometer observatioDS, of 1,237 feet. I append the readings of the barometer from salt water up to the summit of Chilkoot PaiiS, and daring three days at the summit. There are no siraaltaneoas readings at the coast, which leaves the correct altitude, as far as it can be determined by my barometer readings, a matter of uncertainty; but while making the survey from the head of canoe navigation on the Taiya Biver, I took the angles of eleva- tion of each station up to the summit, and the angles of depresi^ioD from the station at the summit down to Lake Benuet, so that I can from these determine very closely the altitude of the summit. This I have not yet had time to do, bat will do so wh^n I go into winter quarters. On the 12th of July I had finished all my preparations for the descent of the river, and started the survey proper from the point on Lake Lindeman above men- tioned. This lake is about live miles long, about four of which lie on the line of travel into the interior. At twenty-eight and one-half rabies from salt water we reach the head of Lake Bennet, of Sobwatka. Between it and Lake Lindeman there is a portage of aboat three quarters of a mile in length, the river being rough, narrow and crooked. The upper end of ijake Bonnet is bounded by high mountains, and there is some timber near the head of the lake, then little or none except in the ravines, until the middle of its length is reached, when the lake widens out to about twice the width of the upper end. Here we find flats and valleys ; in the latter numerous large spruce trees were noticed, bu^ they are covered from the ground up with large limM which render them almost unfit toi use. About eighteen miles down Lake Bernet we reach the mouth of a large arm of the lake. It extends in a south- wee>terly diiection, and is said by the Indians to head about fifteen miles away in the glacier, from which the westerly fork of the Tuiya River takes its source. At its junction this arm of the lake is about one mile wide, and as far as could be seen up it (about eight miles) it is bordered by high moun- tains. This arm is named by Schwalka on his map the " Wheaton River." There is little or no timber of any value at tLd lower end of Lake Bennet, where there is an extensive sandy fiat, called by the minern, " Cariboo Crossing." A short distance below Lake Bennet we enter Lake Nares, as named by Schwutka. This lake is shallow, with muddy fiat shores on the west side, covered with nrnall scrubby timber. On the east side, the bank is higher and the timber of better quality ; but there is none of commercial value, even were there a cheap way of getting it out. Passing through Lake Nares and Bow of Schwatka, the latter really a part of Tahko Lake, wo reach the mouth of the " windy " arm of Tahko Lake, which I understood the Indians to call Takone. l:ieventy-four and a-halt miles from salt water, we reach the lower end of Tahko Lake, and reach what may be called the river proper. Here it has the volume and character of a river, being about 200 yards wide and from 6 to 1:^ feet deep. The country bordering the river is low. At IV^ miles we reach Lake Marsh of Schwatka and Lake of the liines. The immediate shore on the we»t side of this lake is flat and swampy, with some small timber, and the water near this shore is shallow. The easterly shore appears to be better, the hilld rise at once from it and slope gently back to the mountains. Oa the west side it is olten many miles back from the lake before a hill of any height is reached. We enter the river again at ')9 miles from saltwater. The country along th« shores is hilly, aomettmos rooky, and covered with small timber, oonsisiinff ohiefly of spruce, poplar, pitch pine and birch, but very little of it U fit for anything bat fuel. The river is from 150 to 200 yards wide, with a oarrent of aboat four miles ua hoar; it is generally very crooked. [PABT II] 67 y, by my ammit of iltaneons termined le aarvey of eleva- te station ■y closely ) BO whba nt of the ovd men- ,he line of of Lake of aboat [ed. re is some , uDtil the the width ■ouB lar^e irge limM ■ge arm of na to head the Tuiya milu witle, gb moun- net, where Schwutka. vith Hrnall r of botlor ip way of ■ a part of :e, which I I of Tahko 'olume and ieep. Tho ines. The some small lears to be tainH. Ob ,ny height ' along the ins ohiefly ytning bat r mileB am At 125 miles from salt water, the oanyon is reached^ At this point the river flows through a fissare in a barrier of basaltic rock, which intersects its coarse. The canyon proper is about five-eights of a mile long and about 100 feet wide, with perpendicular walls from 60 to 80 feet high. The current through it is swift, and the water rough, but with a fairly large boat the only risk in running through it would be from contact with the sides, in which case one would be certain to come to grief. The passage through is made in from three to four minutes. About half way through the canyon there is a basin of about one eighth of a mile in length and the t^ame in width. Below the canyon the river assumes its original character, the banks being low, sandy and gravelly flats. The river is shallow and rapid, with a few scattered boulders, which do not appear above the water, bat are too high to allow of boats passing safely over them. The canyon and its rapids are altogether two and three-otuarter miles long. The last rapid, which is three-eighths of a mile in length, is a bad one, and we had to portage everything round it, and let our boat down with ropes from the shore. This rapid is called by the miners the " vV bite Horso," from the fact that nearly all the water is white with foam. Several parties buve run through the rapid on rafts^ and one or two in boats, but few want to repeat the trip. The total f ill from the head of tho canyon to tho foot of the " White Horse '* rapid, is thirty two feet (deduced from the angles of elevations of each station from the preceding or succeeding one.") At 142^ miles from the head of the inlet, the Tahkheena Eiver flows into the Lewis from the south-west ; at the junction it appears nearly as large a river as the Lewis. The water of the Tahkheena is quite muddy.and it changes the color of the water in the Lewis for some distance below its entrance. Looking up the valley of the Tahkheena f;-om its mouth, many snow-covered mountains are seen ; bat in the immediate vicinity of the main river the surrounding hills and ridges are piincipally gravel and sund, covered with small poplar and spruce. One hundred and fifty-tive and ahalf miles brings us to Lake Lebarge, which is 31f miles long, and ranges from about two to four and a-balf miles in width. The general character of the river valley, from ihc canyon to Lake Lebarge, is hilly; the hills close to the river consisting mostly of sand and gravel bluffs, with rocks and mountains in the distance. Tho easterly shore of Lake Lebarge is generally rooky and steep, in many cases we might s&y mountainous. The hills on the westerly shore are lower and are better timbured, und tho rooks are of a more shaly nature. The junction of Newberry River (Hoot-alinqaa of rivers) which flows from the south east, and the Lewis, is reached at ' Entrance to upper canyon Summit of Pass . ..~ do - do do - do II 09 «» • II o 29-974 72 29 •726 66 29 -948 62 29-863 63 29-782 48 29 -803 60 29-220 56 28-791 49 28-848 60 28-860 57 28-699 61 28-626 49 28-399 64-5 27-678 48 26-330 46-6 26 -277 41 26 -264 40 26-247 46 26-129 38-6 Remarks. Clear and warm. ■^^<>: / Windy. do Windy and rainy. «>MTSTE:.LiAi \ WM. OGILVIB, Dominion Land Surveyor, 'A 4 i IPasB, itemarks. aad warm. y and rainy. Surveyor. I