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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. by errata ned to ent une pelure, fafon A □ 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 4 % /d^jg. >« TM^MVmE,^ IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. m ^mATisiLa IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, AND part oC Wip^tv Cftnatra, BY WM. DALTON. Here yon may range at large,- ** No bear to dread, no rav*noiu wolf to fright, *' No flies to stiag, no rattle-snakes to bite, ** No floods to ford, no hurricanes to fear, ** No savage war*whoop to alarm the ear : ** Theae perils all, and horrors yoa may shun, " Rest when yoa plea«e, and when you please go on." APPLEBY s S*?v' PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOE, BT R. BATEMAN. 1821. ■WBianfanpeaw tfnttrtV «t ^Rtietier*' Haiti, tf I TO WILLIAM CRACKENTHOnPEy Esq, thmS volume f5 RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERF J NT, THE AUTHOR. ^.«M^^ sajj^g^^asagi^,--^ ^ Il Jbr deal have misli publi ctdat that A gr lishec eithei descr in Ah persu either upon A spotj t)uta\ rema ADVERTISEMENT. JlN preparing the following Observation^ Jbr the Press, the Author has anxiously en'* deavoured to exclude every thing which could have the most remote tendency to deceive or mislead. It was from a conviction that no publication which he had then seen, was cal^ culated to give a correct idea of America^ that he undertook to examine for himseif, A great majority of the books already pub^ lished upon this subject, have been writteH either by men who have never seen the places described by them, or by Emigrants resident in America who are obviously interested iti persuading others to follow their steps ; — ttt either case, little dependance can be placed upon their report. As these Remarks were taken upon the spot for his own use, they are set down with* out arrangement; and he chooses to let them remain so, from a conviction that a statement ^f facts and local circumstances as here laid Ill VII. down from peTBofial obs^rtation, is better calculated to give a proper idea of the court' try under consideration, than any methodi- cgI arrangement tan do. . He would consider himself guilty of ad act of great injustice, ttere he td omit td mention the obligation he is under to hisfd-' low- traveller i Mr. Wm.Laferick, of Mot* land. That Gentleman %ibas his ins^partMe companion, and to his observations the AU*' thm* is much indebted, , ' He has not the t unity to suppose that eviry sentdment c&ntained in his book, wiU T^siOe the approbation of every reader;**^ iQ aueh who may fed offendad he tbcndd cmiy Sflff BlTMAliVlf itSSl ERBAAB. Cretekenthdfpe, TMt^yjEEiBi ly TBS UNITED STATES OF AMERICA* CHAPTER I. New York — Jersey — Philadelphia, ^c, June 8, 181 9* After a tedious and dangerous passage, we are once more gratified by the sigh^^ land. Those only who have experienced what it is to be confined for several weeks to the bounds of a vessel^ tossed about at the mercy of a tempestuous ocean^ can form any idea of the joy and exultation felt in every breast at such a prospect. In the evening a pilot came on board. It is scarcely necessary to observe^ that af- ter tne arrival of this personage^ the Cap- tain or Master of the vessel is only consider^ ed a passenger. f # 3 T!ie face of the country after passing Sandy Hook, and more particularly on the eastern shore, is deli<^]itrul in its appearance. The soil not rich, but the verdure remark- ably so. The "Narrows," so called because the width of the river is here considerably dimi- nished, are situated at the foot of ihe bay, about three leagues distant from the city of New York. Here, on the Jersey shore, stands a semicircular fort of one tier of guns. This is supported by another, which is built upon (lie summit of a hill which rises almost perpendicularly from the rear of the former. At this place, the breadth of the river is considerably short of a mile. About a fur- long from the opposite shore, the State is preparing a very strong fprdfication, upon a large scale, with three tier of guns. About the middle of the bay there is another fort erected; and immediately facing the city, upon Governor's Island, a powerful circular battery with three tier of guns, the lowest being thirty-two pounders, threatens s destruction to on invading foe. At the junction of the Hudson and East i .vers they l!ave erected another, which hy way of dis- ti nction is called " the hattery.*' Besides all these, there are o;ie or two more in the North river behind the city. The magni- tude of the i^av and of these rive "s, which ahnost surround the city, must ad ! greatly to the salubrity wf the air and the healthi- ness of the phice. There is a sufficiency of water for the largest vessels to float in, close to the crty. The wharfs jut out into the river, and are well adapted for the accom- modation of vessels, which being run into the litlle docks called " slips," can lay close alongside them, secure from winds and storms. A tax of one dollar was demanded by pur captain from every passenger, for what is called the hospital duty. This money, we understand, is added to a fund for the rehef of foreigners oppressed by poverty or sick- ness. The government of this Stat.e hsts made a provision of ten thousand dollai^ per annum " for the relief of the foreign poor." June 9. — This day we made good our landing. We were allowed by the officers of the customs to step ashore without a question being asked or any hindrance ofr* fered. Hundreds of spectators crowded the wharfs. In general they seemed to be well clothed. I saw no marks of poverty — not one beggar, ' In such a situation, every thing appeared to be new and interesting; and I felt the necessity of the greatest caution in making conclusions. In walking through the streets in search of lodgings, the most striking fea- ture 1 noticed was the dress of the inhabi- tants. This was uniformly good. Their complexion appears to be generally sallow. I observed few females in the streets. A party of militiamen were undergoing a drill in the streets. Thev were not dressed in regimentals. Every adult male, I am in- formed, between the ages of eighteen and forty-five, with the exception of public 5 functionaries, clergymen, &c. are obliged to undergo a training, in order that they may be ready to act, if called upon, in case of invasion. It is said that there are eight hundred tliousand men of this description, properly trained, in the Union. Flogging fs not allowed in the ranks of ihe America^ii militia. The great number of hogs running about the streets indicates something wrong. It is said they are useful in clearing the streets of bones, &c. Could no other plan be de- vised to effect this? June 9. — In the evening we crossed the East river to Brooklyn, upon Long Island, in a steam-boat, several of which are kept running constantly here. This is a pleasant place, its site being elevated, and some parts of it commanding a fine view of the city. The air being esteemed more salubrious than that of New York, many merchants and others doing business in the latter place, prefer boarding here. 6 ' We called upon an Eiiglisliman^a watch- maker. With him, as well as with every emigrant we have yet seen, the cry is ** I liad formed too high an opinion respecting; the privileges to he met with here,'* or, in other words, they had been disappointed in their expectations. The business of a watch- maker is perhaps, generally speaking, not a very good one, especially for an emigrant, from the difficulty of getting employment; hut the workman is very well paid for what jobs he gets. There is a large man of war on the stocks in the navy yard, a little above t!us place. AH the branches of the Union are using gredt exertions to complete their navy. In 1816Congress voted eight millionsof dollars for building nine vessels in eight years, to carry not less than 74 guns each. They are now engaged in building several of these ships called 74's, but which in reality will carry 96 guns (having long 32's upon both decks, and 24-pound carronades upon the quarter-deck and forecastle). The Coluiu- l)ia, lately launched at Washington, in the presence of the members of Congress, for 96, will, I am informed, carry 110 guns. A particular friend of mine, who was an officer on board the Franklin, assured me that slie carried 20 ginis more than her rated num- ber, and, what was to me matter of greater surprise, she had 400 English sailors on board as part of her crew ! When we see all these preparations, and bear in mind that the American seamen are all select men, many of them Britons, who would probably prefer falling in battle to capture by the English, the conclusion deduced is ominous to their opponents, whenever they are call- ed into action. The celebrated steam frigate Fulton lie* in the river a little above this place. The Americans say she is proof against all ex- ternal attacks, her sides being six feet in thickness. The length of this vessel is 145 feet, breadth 55 feet, and she is said to have 120 horse power. Upon any who might attempt to board her she is prepared to dis- 8 cli8|,rge 9 ^reat quantity of hoiliiijs^ water Trom the boilers which supply the steam ; and is in many other respects so peculiarly constructed botli for annoyance and defence as to be very troublesome to an aggressor. She would certainly have a great advantage in a calm, but although fitted up with masts and sails^ she would, in a rough sea^ labour under some disadvantages. . We returned li> a team boat. In passing over the river one day, a passenger iet off a rocket. This frightened the horses to such a degree that they became unmanageable, and actually ran away with the boat down the river to Governor's Island. One of the animals having unfortunately stumbled, was dragged almost to death. These horses are not, as some may imagine, stationed on the sides of the river, but in the middle of the vessel which they carry across. We greatly admire the beauty and acti- vity of the horses employed in the streets. They are of a light breed. Laden or un- 9 )y.!cn the carman mi ist ride, and when the I'citler is the ctise he goes at a brisk trot. !^cef, mutton, and lamb, are not at pre- sent much lower than the samearticlrs v/ould l> ' in Westmorland : With respect to the quality, the first is now very good, the se- cond very bad, and tlie last mentioned arti- cle excellent. A sucking pig, weighing about 14ll)s. sells for about a dollar. The markets are abundantly supplied v:\t\\ fish of almost ev^Ty denomination, ma- ny of which are kept alive in water provided ill the market-houses for that purpose. As may be expected, the prices are very low. House rents are very high. "^Fhat in which we lodged during our stay here, though not particularly well situated, and containing only two rooms on each floor, is rented at 400 dollars or about 90/. a- year. A friend of mine in Wall Street, informed me that he paid for his house, which is about as large again as the one above-mentioned, a yearly rent of 2,500 dollars or about b6^L 10s. sterling. € ■<^ 10 The article of fuel is also very expensive. Those who are not provident enough, or who are prevented by want of money or convenience from laying in a stock for their winter consumption before its commence- ment, have frequently, from the severity of the season, to pay an extravagant price for it. A cord of oak wood, i. e, a heap 8 feet long, 4 feet broad, and 4 deep, may, in sum- mer, be bought for 5 dollars, if hickory, 8 dollars — in the winter the former will cost 7 or 8, and the latter 10 or II dollars. It has been known as high as 30. Coal, which is not much used, except in manufactories where it is indispensably necessary, is sold at this time for from 12 to 13 dollars per chaldron, or about 9d. English per peck Boarding, the price of provisions consi- dered, is excessively high. What is called genteel boarding, is from twenty-seven to forty-iSve shillings per week. At inferior houses, for half the pri«e. It may be neces- sary to remark here, that the American dol- lar is equal in value to four and sixpence IP II uterlinj; — in New York currency eight j^hillings. Consequently, the shilling cur*^ rent is only worth sixpence three-farthings fiterliui^. The American coins are as follow :— OOLD. r.agle .... value .... 10 T)ollari« Half Eagle 5 Do Quarter Eagle 2 1-2 Do. SILVER, Dollar 100 Cents, Half Dollar.... 50 Do. guaner Dollar 25 Do. COPPER ^ Cent 1 Do. Half Cent Half Ooc Besides these^ there are in circulation se- veral Spanish coins. The gold coins have, like those of England, almost entirely dis-*- appeared. Dollars and half dollars are not very plentiful. All the banks circulate doN lar notes. This city may not improperly be called the metropolis of America. It is the first city in the Union, whether we consider its wealthy its commerce^ or its population. It 13 is said that it has for several year.< contri- buted one-fourth of the pnbli' 311110, by the collections of duties on innmrtaaiul ton- nage. Its population is supposed to amount to about 135,0(]0. There are several fine streets in this city, The Rroadway, wiiich is nearly thirty yards in width and about two miles and a half in length, running through the city in a direct Jine, is the, finest. The houses are built of red brick, in the most elegant style, and the shops are not exceeded in splendour by any in London. On the eastern side of the Broadway the streets are not regular. It is in this part of the city that most of the bu- siness is carried on. That side nearest to the Hudson, is built upon a regular uni- form plan and contains many elegant streets. At the foot of Broadway and Greenwich street there is a small park of a few acres (bounded by the Bay, the North and East rivers^ which is beautifully laid out into >Yalks^ &c. From this place there is a de- 13 ' lij^litful view of the Bay, Lon?; Island, Go* veruor's Islaiul, Statcn Island, &c. There is also another park in the centre of the city between Broadway and Chatham street, enclosed with wooden palings. Ex- tended across the north end of this enclosure stands the City Hall. This is a noble strnc- iure, hiiilt in a most elegant style of archi- tecture, surmounted by a beautiful dome. The whole exterior of the front is of white warble. The merchants, particularly the import- ers of dry goods, complain mucli. The market for every description of foreign produce, is completely overstocked. In short, the value of every commodity, except money, seems on the decrease — that, consi- dered as an article of merchandise to be bar- tered for other goods, is of more value than ever, and will increase in proportion to the deterioration in the price of every other ar- ticle in trade. In this stage of our travefs,'further obser- vations upon the st^te of trade^ &c, might 14 justly be considered premature?. A traveller, * at his first entrance into a new country, njust find his mind in some degree distract- ed l>y the muUipiicity of objects presented to his view. He is desirous to have a more extended and general view of the landscape, before he can decide upon the relative beau- ty of any of the oljccts pourtrayed thereon. If be wishes not to deceive others by a false estimate, he will be careful not to be de- ceived hiro.self. It behoves him, therefore, to proceed with caution, — to divest himself, if possible, of preconceived opinions, — to exrimine impartially, — to search out the trulii,— and, if called upon to pronounce his opinion to the world, to declare * the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth.' June 12. — Left New York for PhiladeN phia, by way of Paulos Hook, &e. At the distance of a few miles from the former ci- ty, oar road led us through a laro^e marshy tractof land, called the Cedar Swamp, con- taining several thousands of acres, most of >vhich has at no distant period been covered 15 wilh timber. A considerable portion iscVnr of stumps, and, being- partially drained, now bears tolerable good crops of wheat and rye, which, even in this situation, will be ripe six weeks sooner than the same p;vi\\n would be in the North of En Hand. A credit part, however, is yet covered witli stump** and brushwood. Its vicinity to New York would make the timber valuable, as also the ground, but this swamp must be extromtlv unhealthy for settlers, from its very low si- tuation. I obseived some iiuts in the midst of this tract, but had not an opportunity of gratifying my wish to see the inhabitants. At this season of the year, tbe country through which we travelled is very pleasant. The soil is generally light and apparently poor, but bearing a strong argument in fa- vour of its fertility, viz. good crops. In- deed the fineness of the climate seems in some measure to supply the lack of good management. I ought, in justice, to ob- serve, that there are some farms in this tract which should be excepted from the general • stigma of bei!i*»' poorly conducted, as Well as from that of poverty of soil, being cnlli- vated ill a good style, i^id, in many respects, in (lie English mode. The crops of red clover are abundant. The sides of the roiids are covered with white, which springs, spontaneously. During the night ttie air "was filled witli lightning-bugs or fire-flies. These are small insects, which emit a strong brilliant light from their bodies. Thev ap- peared to be most numerous in low situations. In our track from New York to Phila- delphia we passed through several hand-^ 8ome towns, which I shall briefly notice, Newark, distant about nine miles from New York— a handsome town, finely situated^ and containing, I am informed, about 2000 inhabitants. The adjacent country appears to be tolerably fertile. Eliza l)efh Town, situate about six miles *S. VV. of Newark, is a neat place, and is surrounded by land of superior quality. New Biunswick, Princeton, and Tren- ton^ which last is the capital of New Jerseys 17 tire all places of considerable impor.taiice. Princeton is noted for its college, which J8 well endowed and has a good library. Trenton is celebrated for a happy stroke of generalship displayed here by Washington. The affairs of the Americans had, at that time, a very unpromising appearance. They had been compelled id retreat from Long Island. New York was in the hands of the British. Several forts had been lately lost, and the period for the service in the Ameri- can army had expired. But though the eagle was impeded in her progress, she *< Still soarM with eyes fixM on Victory's sun*'* The star of Liberty had at length risen in the West, and though it might for a moment be shrouded by clouds, or darkened by storms, it was destined to overcome, by the brilliancy of its light, the obscurity that surrounded it; and to shine forth with meridian splendour until the planets them- selves should be 'Most in its blaze," The army of the brave Washington was recruited by volunteers. On the night of o 18 ♦ the 25th December, 1796, they crossed thd Delaware over the ice, surprised a ])rigadc of their invaders at this phice, and before the British forces could reach them, made good their retreat to Princeton, then in the enemy's hands, which post they stormed, and then^renewed their former position ! The behaviour of tavern-keepers has of- ten been noticed by travellers ; — indeed the difference between the haaghty indepen- dent carriage of these, and the officious and respectful behaviour of those in England, is too striking to escape the observation of the most careless observer. At one of these taverns, where we had called for the sake of obtaining a little refreshment, Ihappened rather rashly to order a glass of rum. To notice this order would have been degrading to the feelings of this son of Liberty. A renewal of the application produced noother effect- — it was treated with silent contempt. I saw the error into which I had fallen, and reqtiested him to make me one. With a smile of contempt, which had almost driven 19 me from his honse/he asked me ''what kind of rum?" ''Jamaica, to be sure/' was my reply. I then obtained my request. To ^ive the reader to understand the meaning of the last question, I ought to remark, that l^reat quantities of this fiery liquid are made in this country. This is called rufh. That which is imported goes by the name of spi- rits, and is retailed at double the price of the former. At the place above-mentioned I >vas charged an eleven-penny-bit (sixpence three-farthings). N. B. In New Jersey two five-penny's make an eleven-penny-bit! — ^ This eleven-penny is the York shilling, eight of which make a dollar.* We crossed the Delawafe at Trenton, over the celebrated bridge at that phice. * With travellers the temptation to egotistic prollxi. ty is very great. The reader vcill naturally feel his in- terest in their "••='lfare increase as they go along, but there IS a minuteness of detail that he wishes not to hear, 'i'here are some facts which are of no value. I conceive the above to be characteristic, aud therefore not altog ents. Fruit trees, of almost every description, are planted in front and around the build- ing. We observed sonae orange trees, hea- vily laden with fruit which was r.early ripe.. The streets of this city are kept remark- ably cleftn, particularly the side walks. From the abundance of water at the dispo- sal of the citizens, it is no uncc mmon thing to see streams rutining down the streets in all directions. Men are constantly employ. 28 ed in examining the pumps and other places for the conveyance of water, and public scayengers are kept in full empbyment in the streets. Upon the whole, I could not but admire the plan of this city. It might perhaps be considered by some, a proof of finer taste to condemn this regularity ; but until I can satisfy myself, that crooked streets are more conducive to health and convenience than straight ones, I will not fear to declare my conviction, that the plan of this city, as laid out by its great founder William Penn, is the best that could have been made. Had the original plan never been deviated from, the city would have presented a still more handsome appearance. Water street and its dirty alleys, would not have been in ex- istence. The subjoined report of one night's pro- ceedings of the Philadelphia police, may be amusing. It is published briefly; as foN lows;-—' • 29 • 1. A black boy> 12 years old, fount! strol- ling^ in the streets at midniglit, having no home ; — committed to be bound out as an apprentice. 2. A black girl, 10 years old, found in the streets at midnight; — committed as a runaway. 3. Two women found drunk at 11 o'clock at nighty were each sentenced to one month's imprisonment. 4. A man was bound over to court for leading a mob to resist the dog-killers.* 5. Many boys were bound over to court, for habitually disturbing the peace at the corners of streets during evenings. When the watchmen meet Avith any drunken person^ or find any laying asleep * From the prevalency of cases of hydrophobia in the summer months, it is judged advisable to discourage the keeping of dogs. In order to do this effectually, a number of men are employed by the police to dispatch, 9nd take away in a cart (which they have with them for that purpose) all dogs found in the streetSj hence arises their name of Dogyed as manager of an es- tate in the subnrbs He informed us that liis salary is 80 guineas per annum^ exclu- sive of a dvvelUng-house rent free, and other privileges. The soil here is light, and the subsoil a pale yellow sand ; nevertheless, ihe crops are very good. Mr. T. is endea- vouring to raise a live fence, which appears to thrive very well, and will be a great im- provement. They seldom sell their wheat, we are informed, from this farm, under two dollars or 9s. sterling per Win. bushel. Their ploughs and harrows are the most ri- diculous looking things imaginable. About a mile distant from the last men- tioned place, we found another Westmorland farmer, Mr. C, who shares a small farm of tolerably good land, upon which he keeps a- bout 15 railch cows, with the produce of which he supplies the citizens at the rate of eight 34 t centi^ or about fourpencc per quart. Tlirsc men appear to have made an lulvanta^eons change of countries — nre comfortably situ- ated, and doing very well. A good inilch cow may cost here about two-thirds of the Westmorland price.—- Horses a little higher. A very good double waggon may be had for 100 dollars. During my stay in Philadelphia, I had an offer of a quarter section or 160 acres of land, in the Illinois, at the distance of seven miles from the Mississipi, for 300 dollars, or 13/. 10s. sterling. The title was indisputable. , The peninsula, between the Mississipi and Illinois rivers, where the property is situ- ated, has been surveyed as soldiers' bounty lands. The Act of Congress, granting those lands as bounty to the soldiers enlisted into the army of the United States, expressly provides that the several portions to be granted under that act, shall be fit for cul- tivation. The title of all the lands sold by the ge- tiBXijX Goyernmeut, is so good that litigation^ tl 35 iirisino- from disputed titles, must be very rare. The mode of surveying the public latuls has also a tendency to simplify the dcmarkatioii between individual proprie- tors, and renders certain, what, in many other Countries, and even in parts of the United States, is the fruitful source of ani- mosity and legal disquisition. To know and appreciate the full value of g'o^ernment lilies in America, it is only necessary to con- trast (he history of land-titles in Pennsylvania and Kentucky with thatof the western coun- tries. French brandy is sold here for 6s. sterling per gallon, gin 4s. 6d, whisky Is. 6d., &c., so that, as Cobbett expresses it, "a person may drink himself blind for the price of six- j)ence.'* An immense quantity of rum, which is distilled in almost every quarter of the Union, but more particularly, I am in- formed, in New England, is consumed by the lower orders of the people. The low price at which this fiery liquid is retailed in the grog shops, (about threepence the half- 36 pint) is here productive of bad consequences. Notwithstanding this, it is observed timttbc Americans deserve belter the appellation oi' tiplers than that of drunkards. 13. Having seen much in some modern publications respecting the behaviour of the people of colour at their places of worship, I embraced an opportunity of attending a Methodist church in the evening. I'he building was tolerably large, and might contain about two thousand persons. The preacher who, as well as the whole congre- gation, (with the exception of a relation of mine, my fellow-traveller, and myself,) was a descendant of Ham, displayed con- siderable ability in his discourse, and hand- led a very difficult r-ubject (Romans, 8, 19,) with a skill and eloquence rarely surpassed by preachers of the first education. The congregation, with the exception of two or tliree individuals, was orderly and attentive ; and, 1 confess, I was agreeably disappointed to find, that, although they generally dis- played a considerable degree of fervour/---^ assa 31 yrarticularly in sin<^iii(j, yet all that seream- in^ and jumping', which, from tlie accounts I had seen, I might reasonably have expect- ed to meet with here, dwindled into a few- hearty Amens, The Methodists are very numerous, and are increasing rapidly. The number of members under the care of the several con- ferences in the United States of America, as stated in their minutes for 1818, was 229,627, exclusive of 789 itinerant preach- ers.* * At the Conference held in 1819, it was found there had been an increase of 1 1,297, since the last Conference in 1818 ; and it has been ascertained at the Conference held this year ( 1820), that the number of members in the United Societies of the Methodist Episcopal Church was about 258,000, being an increase of 18,000 during the last twelve months Of this number about one-fifth • are coloured and blacks. During the last ten years this body has gained an addition in the United States of about 100,000 members ! Ministers of this persuasion are very frequently appointed to preach before the Congress ( assembled at Washington, sometimes to the exclusion ' of every other, during the sitting. 38 CHAPTER II. Bramfi/iSuhie — Lancaster — Borden- Town-"^ Amhoy, 8gc. June 17. Left Philadelphia for Lancaster, on the Pittsburg road. On our egress from the city wc passed the Scuylkill over the wooden bridge, wliich is 1300 feet long and 42 broad. This was built about six year^ ago, and cost 275,000 dolhu-s. A Hide higher up we ob- served another bridire thrown over this no- b!e river, which had only one arcli. The face of the country for some niiles presents an unpleasant sameness. Tlie soil is generally light, and the subsoil apparent- ly a mixture of bright yellow sand and clay. About Downing Town, and through the Piraudywine valley the country assumes a diflerent and far more pleasing aspect., — » 39 '8 111 le a (lip soil stronj^ and the crops heavy. At the former phice, which is a very pleasant little town, about thirty-three miles west of Phi- ladelphia, we me* with an intelligent and friendly gentleman, who, in answer to onr enquiries concerning some beautiful farms in the vicinity, assured us that these lands, vyhich, two years ago, might probably have been sold for 45/. an acre, would not, now, sell for half that price. Towards Lancaster the landscape grows more beautiful, and here I must say, that much as I had heard and read of the beauty of this country, my expectations fell far short of the reality. Much of the ground adjacent to the road is cleared, and divided into fine large farms. True, the stumps of the trees wbich have been recently cut down, are re- maining ; but their duration in this soil must be short. In the course of a very few years, not one of these stumps will remain to of- fend the sight, or retard the labours, of the agriculturist. 40 To com|)lote the. scene, neat funn houses, painted and pitizzacd, appear scattered in every direction. Their barns are very Jarge ai:d comuiodions, often built of stone, and in many instances, wlien this is the case, have stabling*, &c., underneath, with a cat- tle-yard in front. Every tliini*- looks com- fortable, and if ease and prosperity could confer happinejss, tlie farmer might here en- joy it. The landscape is at this season beautiful in the extreme, — the fields are full of plenty, and all nature is dressed in her best, if not lier gayest, attire. The woods have a different appearance from any we have yet seen. The trees are lofty, and there is seldom any brushy underwood, so that the grass grows freely amongst them, and the cattle find an agreeable shelter from the heat of the sun. It is perhaps worthy of remark, that the grass and white clover which grow under the trees^ are not rejected by them here, as they would be in a colder climate. 41 . There is, however, one drawhack, — viz* the awkward worm fences. Ahhough the white thorn is a nntive of America, yet the fences are still formed of rough rails, laid in a zigzag direction, without posts, except in the vicinity 4»f the cities, or, in some in- stances, adjoining the road. The high price of wood, which increases in inverse propor- tion to the quantity left standing in the country, will tend to discourage Jhe folIovV- ers of the crooked plan, and to bring into more general use the adoption of the neat, as well as more durable, post and rail. The thorn hedge may, very probably, by the operation of the same cause, receive encou- ragement. We observed one field on the hanks of the Conestoga, surrounded by a flourishing quickset fence; it is perhaps needless to add, that the comparison is very much in favour of the live fence, whether it is made with respect to the neatness, useful- ness, or the economy of the plan, Lancaster. — This place, the capital of the county of the same name, has long been G I 42 counted th<^ ♦greatest Inljirnl town in tlic UnitNi States. I am, however, inclined to think that U mtrsl very soon sfwe np its claim to this distinction. This, like almost all the Am«ritran towns, is formed upon a rc<:i^nlar plan, th^ streets inlerscdling each other at right itngl«s. An -elegant Owirt House has hecki erected in tfie centre of the fonr prin- cipal sti^ects. The republican sons of Free- dom^ in their rage again ^ monnrdij and lirififtotracy, have abolislied the names of ftmny of their streets, and substitiited others more consonant to iheir democratic; notions, tkS Liberty, Washington, Fratiklin streets, Ac., instead of Kiwg, Qacen, Duke street, •Ac. At Lanea^r, however, t)\e whole Royal family have^urvived the wreck. This is perhaps, in some degree acconn ted for, by the drcumslfcan'ce of the peop>e here, and in the neighbourhood, being Dutch or An- glo-Diitrch. These Du'tc^h-Amerrcans have the character of sober, industriows, and ho- nest people ; and, what in my opinion is a proof of their wisdom, are slow in forming a fea. ' M i a 43 athif'bments, but faithful to them when they arc fiU'ined. Ail public business ia traniacU ed in the English language, throughout the Union. 18 — 2'i. — We have hud some very plea- sant ram jles into the neighbouring country, in which we were generally accompanied by a clergyman of our acquaintance^ and a farmer. We found the land^ generally 8peakin£>;, to be of a good strong quality^ but iiidifierently cultivated. The process of cultivation, or mode of agriculture^ may, with little deviation, be stated as follows. Having ploughed up their lea or green swanl, and harrowed it well, the ground is generally planted with Indian corn, about the middle of May. The produce varies (according to the nature of the soil and cli- mate) from ten, to upwards of one hundred bushels per acre. Perhaps at Lancaster, fifty or sixty maybe called an average quan** tity; and half a dollar not more than an average price. When the ground is stitch- ed up and marked out^ the planter puts in n 44 I from four to seven grains of corn, and a pumpkin seed (generally) into eacli hill, of ^\hich there may be two thousand in an aerf?. In two or three 'eeks, (he plants make their appearance, when a piough is vun between each row, in order to raise the soil round the phmt. Previously to this, some farmers scatter a little manure or plas- ter of Paris about the roo^, as the condition of the ground may require. The next pro- cess is hand-hoeing. Then the top (having sprung to the height of from seven to ten feet) is cut off at about two-thirds of its height, and furnishes a large supply of ex- cellent fodder. From each stalk, which grows like a cane, and is usually about an inch in diameter, there springs out, one, two, or three ears or cobs, eacli near a foot long. These stalks are not cut down in reaping — the cobs only beirig taken off with proper instruments, and deposited in corn cribs, which are houses built on piupose for their reception. The general time for reap- ing this, is in October, iiii .nri- l iiiiiiihw BM 45 Indian corn, or corn, as tlie Americans call it, by way of eminence (wheat, barley, rye, and oats being* confounded under the title oi' grain) is made use of in a variety of ways. It is preferable to oats in many res- pects, particularly in feediiii^ bogs. It is ground into meal, and distilled into whisky. The Indians are said to have thirty-Seven different method^ of cooking it. The next season, the stalks being gather- ed off, the same ground is sometimes, but very rarely, sown with oats. This crop is not considered valuable, the husk being sel- dom well filled. The superior value of In- dian corn, for almost every purpose to which oats are applicable, renders the cultivation of this grain of minor importance. With proper attention and care in the choice of seed, it might be brought to succeed better. If oats are not sown, some lit'ae manure h laid upon the ground, and it is sown with wheat — then with rye, when it is laid down wii'h timothy and clover. When the wheat succeeds to the corn^ it is sown in the fall, 46 the land having* been ploughed ovei* once or twice, between the time of reaping and that of sowing, in the following year. From twenty-five to tliirty bushels per acre \Vwi. is counted an average crop of wheat. The price of this article varies from three, to six shillings per bushel. Generally Sjieak- ing, a dollar may be callea the average price. Potatoes. — These appear to be only in partial use. They are planted, in most in- stances, as the first crop after grass. Here, the soil seems too stitf for this root. It must not be imagined, that, in order to procure tlicsc crops, the farmer here bestows that labour and attention, which an agricul* turist in the old country would deem it ne- cessary to use. l^liey allow (for it would be folly to deny it) that the soil might produce more; but argue, that the expence of the iiddilional labour, would counterbalance the vahieof the additional increase ; and, there- lore, they contend, they can see no good veason for departing from the track which 47 their forefathers marked out. This Ciondn- sion may be a prudent one, but I have my sospicions, tliat the origin of these cautions rernarks may be traced to that hafeitnal want of enterprize, for which the Dutch settlers are remarkable. Many farms are held in shares, i. e, the produce is shared or divided in certain pro- portions, between the owner and the occu- pier. The crop is generally equtiiy divi- ded, the landlord rcceivin*^ a moiety ^ans rent, the farmer the other half, as a reramneration for labour and skill. In some instances, tlie owner finds the wliole, or a certain propor- tion rt9 — I say respective, because here, there h fio Constitutional Established Cliarch,^^ti^ bo- dy of men who assume to th^mseflv^s th^ ejt- elusive privilegeof framing creeds f6r others and it vvonW be hazarding soni^hing to as- sert that the interests of religion are injures! by tlie want of them. In the first article of ihc amendments to the ConstitutioTi, it k enacted, that " Congress shall make iio law respecting an estabhshmcnt of reh'gioli, or prohibiting the free ex-ereise thereof." > As a striking proof of liberality of seMti-^ orient, I notice the condttct of "the Friertdi,'* in this place, towards the Rev. John ElKo^^ of the Methodist persuasion. That getitJe- ma« ndt being permitted, for reasons n^ 52 discreditable to himself, to officiato in the Methodisis* church ; and the place wliicli he had en^a«ed being* too confined, was of- fered the use of a considerahle portion of their meeting-house. It is ahnost needless to say, the offer was accepted. The place was fitted up; and, on the sabbath evening", we had the satisfaction of seeing it' filled by a congregation of the first respectability. Nothing has hitherto struck us more forcibly, than a certain apparent independ- ence, which every American carries about with him. It docs not seem to be derived so much from mere assurance, as from the idea, that every citizen is upon terms (»f equality with his fellows, and equally eli- gible to any office of trust or emolument. There are here no hereditary tillos to dis- tinction, nor ever can be whilst the present constitution is acted upon. It is a part of the constitution of many of the States, that ''if any citizen shall accept, claim, receive, or retain any title of nobility or honour^ or shall, without the consent of Conffifss, ac- [ ' 53 cept and retain any present, pension, office, or einoluiTient of any kinii wliatever, from any Emperor^ King, Prince, or foreign power, such person shall cease to be a citi- zen of the United States, and shall he incu- ])able of holding- any office of trust or profit under them, or either of them/' Whatever place of trust, or honour, a man may hold ; or however easy his circumstan- ces in life mtiy be ; he can only secure re- spect by acting honourably, and by sliowing that respect to others, which he wishes otliers to show to him. Should 1 find cause to can- cel these observations on ihe American character, in any subsequent intercourse with them, 1 shall do it. In the mean time, by way of proof, that merit, not wealth and patrician greatness, is the surest recommend- ation to places of trust, 1 shall just remark, that nearly all, if not the whole of the ma- gistrates of this city, have, at some period of their lives, been mechanics; and they are not the less respected because they owe their present elevation and prosperity to the 54 Messing- of God upon liveir own personal ex- ertions. The colonel of their militia is now a blacksmith, and the captain a nuilsmith. The father of the prothonotury, which is a place of great ti'ust under the State Govern- lucntj was once a schoolmaster in Philadel- phia. In the revolutionary war he rose to the rank of general and finally was appoint- ed surveyor-general to the State. His son, Mr. Porter, above allu led to, and to whom 1 am indebted (ov much information, has- 100,OCO acres of land, in various parts of VVest Pennsylvania and New York, in tracts of ditferent dimensions, generally rich, «nd heavily timbered, butsituated in acoun^ try not well settled. Anew State road, which is now pro<;ressing through this tract 4)f country, will aicHn promoting tlie increase ♦>f settlers, and, consequently, the value of lands hi its vicinity. Another instance of successful indust4'y in a Mr. Hnlmes. This^ old "entleman, who was an Irish emigrant, and a chair-maker by trade, has, by the uni- on of industry and ability, not only secured* 55 to himself an easy competency, but lias i»iv- en to every one of bis sons an independent fortune in liis own life time. They, never- theless, are all engaged in business. I hnd the pleasnreof being introduced to two of them; — the one, the most eminent physician in the place; the other, who vras high she- riff three years, (being as long as the law would permit,) has a manufactory upon the banks of the Conestoga, near this place. The last-mentioned gentleman owns 20,000 acres, situated between Pittsburg and Erie, not one of which he has seen. Had we wished to have purchased woodland, wc might have laid out a capital, perhaps to advantage here, for a lot of 5,000 acres, forming part of the above-mentioned pro- perty, in Venango county, Richland town- ship, at the distance of six or seven miles from the navigable river Allegany. The land is heavily timbered, which is a proof of goodness of soil, and has some mill-seats upon it. A thousand guineas would have done much towards purchasing ibis tract. y> 56 They have a strangle mclliod of sellliij:^ horses at this place. The auctioneer, who can speak hoth tlie Dutch and Enghsh lan- C:naffes, as circumstances may render neces- sarv, inonnted upon the animal, rides into every quarter of the town, proclaiming- as he goes along, the price he has had offered. It may frequently happen, that he has to ride many nnles during* the selling; of each ani- mal. I ohserved some Tunkers occasionally at the market at this place. These are a religi- ous sect, founded hy a German, who, goin<^ a degree further than Rapp, has enjoined that the women should never associate with the m4?n except for public purposes. They deny the doctrine of original sin and eternal punishment, but allow of purgatory and a state of reward and punishment. Their beards, which they wear uncut, and which, in some instances, reach down to the waist, give them a venerable appear- ance They are represented as being ab- «« . 5T *«lcmious in their diet, and exemplary tii (lieir private conduct. The Mcnnouists, a sort founded likewise hy a German, are niunerous in this neigli- hourhood. IMjey also wear their beards long. During; our stay here, we did not observe the least vestige of poverty, except in the invalids at the poor-house. At this place, which is a large and convenient building*, situated about a mile from the city, upon an estate, to cultivate which gives employment to the inmates, we saw none but real ob- jects of charity, unless it be thought that two unfortunate females are exceptions to this general remark. With the exception of tliese, the inmates are blind, very old, de- crepid or subject to fits. There are also two or three little children. I looked in vain for some of those objects which argue the disorganized state of things in my na^' live country. I saw no men and women sis able to work, as many of those who are ob- liged to contribute to their maintenance. '■■^ #■ ! i 58 The poor-rates here are, therefore, trifling ; and taxes of all kinds are in much the same proportion, the heaviest being for the im- provement of their country, in roavls, public buildings, court-houses, &c. &c. There are in the vicinity of tiiis place, as well as at a distance from it, towards Colum- bia, Harrisburg, Reading, &c., many good farms offered for sale. From the operation of various causes, there are great quantities of land in the market ; and the terms are lower than they have been for some time. Very fine farms may be had in the neighbourhood of these places, for about £9 sterling per acre, buildings included. Lancaster is noted for the peculiar excel- lency of the rifles manufactured in it. As a proof of this, and of the murderous skill of the riflemen in this country, one man lately fired a ball through a dollar ^t the distaijice of one hundred yards. This I had from a countryman, who was an eye wit- ness of the transaction. MMnmMIMM 59 We had intended to push forward down the Ohio to the Illinois^ hut two reasons operated sufficiently powerful upon our minds to induce us to alter our plans. Pirjit, it is almost impracticable^ and extreme)y dangerous to the health of the adventurers, to descend in the warm season. Secondly, reports run very high against the eligibility of pushing into the desert wilds. Lahour is much higher than in the Eastern States, and the value of produce considerably less. Some men, who have visited the western country from this neighbourhood, have re- turned and settled here, preferring a regular^ market and good society, to all the reputed enjoyments and privileges of the western farmer. Acting under these impressions, we have determined to explore West New York, common liy called the Genessee coek- try; part of Upper Canada^ and North Pennsylvania. And then, as circumstances may lall out, push southward and westward, or return to the east. 60 Juried. — Returned to Plnlailel|)l»ia. — This day we went on board a vessel in the river, te welcome the arrival of about one hundred and sixty emigrants from Holland. They are bound towards the Illinois^ and carry a considerable property along with them. Great confusion in th« banking system prevails throughout the Union. Institutions have been suffered to multiply, until almost every village has its bank. They are, with few exceptions, incorporated, and have, therefore, a fixed capital. The difference between the cliartered and non-chartered banks is simply this,— the capital of the former, which is a fixed sura, is divided into shares. Each stockholder may have as ma- ny as he thinks proper; only, he is respon- sible to the community for the debts of the bank, in the proportion that the aggregate of his stock bears to the amount of the ca- pital registered. Consequently, in case of failure, having advanced the amount of his pbare, his private property is secure, — 61 none of the creditors of the bank can touch it. In the latter class, viz. unchaftered, the amount of the capital is not known ; but, as is the case, with some few exceptions, in Great Britain, the credit of the institution rests upon that of the proprietor, or upon the responsibility of the individuals com- posing the partnership; — their joint pro- perty, personal and real, being in fact the bank stock. The directors of the chartered banks are re-appointed or changed every year; and a dividend of profits made every six mouths. At Philadelphia, the bank note exchange on the 14th of June was as follows : — United States Bank notes discount 1 per cent* Boston notes - - - 1 to 2 New York State notes, generally :J 1-2 PENNSYLVANIA, Lancaster Bank notes, Little York, Gettysberg, Chambers- berg, Carlisle, Svvatara, and North - berland, .... Reading, • • • ; 62 Silver Lake, - - ^ Agricultural and Manufac>i turing bank, Carlisle, ^ C'reencastle, -. - - itSiarietta, Junietta, Union Bank and Heaver, All other incorporated banks) ia Pennsylvania - • y 7 P^** cent. 8 to 10 30 40 50 15 to 30 Commercial Bank of Delaware, t Bank at Milford, - • 8 to ^ "Wilmington and Brandywine 10 Laurel bank - • • - - 25 MARYLAND. Baltimore, - - - - ^ Havre de Grace, Annapolis & branches 5 Baltimore City bank, - - 20 Snow Hill, Somerset, and Worcester 4-0 Elkton & Cumberland bank, Allegany 50 Princessan, , - not taken District of Columbia, generally, 2 1-2 Mechanics* bank of Alexandria, . 10 Franklin do. . - 50 Virginia, Farmers bank and branch 5 to 7 Virginia unchariercd bank notes, 10 to 12 It will be observed, tliat the above is on- ly the general state of the currency at Phi- ladelphia. At all the other places mcntioin- 63 ed in the list, the respective vaUies will vary. Such being the state of things, foreignei*s, or men unacquainted with these matters, are liable to great inconveniencies and heavy losses. Surely the legislature of the several Slates will take the matter into con. sideration ; and put a stop to a speculation^ alike disgraceful in its nature, and r linous in its effects. That of Pennsylvania has set an example, by passing a law, that every bank in that State, which shall not on the 1st of August have resumed cash payments, shall be considered as having forfeited its charter. It is supposed that very few, if any, of the forty-two banks last chartered will survive the dog-days ! June 23. — Left Philadelphia for New York, by way of Borden Town and South Amboy, in New Jersey. We had a pleasant passage up the Dela- ware in the steam packet. The face of the country on the Pennsylvanian shore is tole- rably pleasing, being diversified and orna- mented with neat country seats, but the soil M^*- 64 ij^ generally of inferior quality. On \he Jersey shore the prospect is worse, in every respect. The soil seems light and poor, but we observed some wheat and rye nearly ripe. We put in at Burlington, which is a towi^ of considerable size and note, about twenty miles above Philadelphia. From the con- venience of the port and the situation of the town, it might be expected to rise to consi- derable importance, but it vs too near Phila- delphia to admitof any considerable increase. The breadth of the river is not more than a mile here. The predilection for the Lom- bardy poplar is seen at almost every step ;— it is an appendage to every gentleman's seat, and adorns the streets of almost every town. Bristol, on the opposite shore, is a pretty large thriving town. Borden-Tqtvn, Nejv Jersey. — Here we landed. This place is famous, as being the residence of Joseph Bonaparte, the ex- king of Spain. His mansion, which is situ- 65 oted a little above the town, and commands a noble view of the river and adjacent coun- try, has a princely appearance; but it ia surrounded by land of very inferior quality. 1 lis property is said to be immense. Here nine of us got into a vehicle, which, byway of compliment, is called a stage coach, and in which we were dragged by two horses to South Amboy, a distance of more than thirty miles. With some tr r.Ing exceptions, the land in our tract across this part of Jersey is of a very poor quality, — so poor, that it has been compared with the sandy deserts of Arabia. And yet I know a man, who emigrated to America, who took this land, which happen- ed to lie in the steam boat route to Philadel- phia, for a specimen of the country in gene- ral, and returned to England immediately with a report that there was none good in all America ; and, what is perhaps still more strange, the man's judgment was by great numbers, never called in question. r CyQ An acquaiiilance of mijie, who lives near the sea covist in this State, and who is now about to return to Kngiand for his wife and &mily, reports very favonrably of his pros- pects. He arrived here abort a year ago, and following his biisine s . joiner, made (to use his own expression; '•' pJo^ty of mo- ney." He is now in treaty for the purchase of an estate, thinking that a farmer's life is preferable to all others in this country. In the evening we were visited by a tre- mendous thunder storm, which rattled with awful peals over our heads, accompanied by a deluging rain. We crossed the South river in a ferry- boat. It is here about eighty yards wide, and about fifteen feet deep. Without Icav- in.^* his box, or suffering one of us to leave oar seats, our coachman drove his horses, into the boat. As soon as we were all fairly embarked, the ferryman pushed his vehicle and her cargo from the shore, and guiding it by a long pole, which reached the bottom of the river, conducted us safely across. ^ 67 l^he roads were rendered almost impas- sable by the rains, which fell in torrents du- ring- the storm. The wheels of the vehicle i^unk almost to the axletree in the sand^ and^ to add to our mortification, the stage broke down. We were, in consequence, benight- ed in the woods, and two-thirds of us, from the heaviness and unevenness of the road, obliged to travel a considerable part of the way on foot. The tedium of our journey, was, however, considerably alleviated by the plaintive tones of the "Whip-poor-will,** which 1 heard, for the first time, in these forests. At Icngih, the appearance of a light an- nounced to us that we were approaching some place of shelter ; and^ emerging from the woods, we arrived at South Amboy. From the celebrity of this place, I expect- ed to find a town of no inconsiderable magni- tude. There is only one house; and that house a tavern. The situation of this house, on the banks of the Raritan, upon which vessels are constantly running, in all direc- h I ■ 68 tions, is delightful. We here learned an- other lesson of independence of spirit on the part of these American landlords, heing* sent to bed supperless, because no more than three of our party were huugry. Our host would not allow his servants to be at the trouble of cooking, for such a trifle as three half-dollars. On the opposite side of the river (Raritan) on a neck of land between the Sound and the river, stands Perth Am boy. This place, though pleasantly situated, and laying open to Sandy Hook, from which vessels may come in one tide in any weather, and pos- sessing one of the best harbours in all North America, is not, nor does it seem likely to become, a place of any considerable trade. In addition to its natural advantages, several extraordinary privileges have been offered by the legislature to merchants settling here and at Burlington. But the people having, long been accustomed to send their produce to the markets of Philadelphia and New York, and, of course, having their corres- 69 pondencies cstablislied, it is a diificult mat- ter to turn their trade out of the old chan- nel. June 24. — Had a d-j'^'glitful passage up the Sound, which divides Jersey from Stateu Island. The situation of its banks is in many places too low for the purposes of cultivation, being; sometimes, in high tides, covered with water to a considerable depth, — hence called Salt Meadows. In such places the stacks of hay are erected upon wooden piles, which are made of sufficient length to preserve them from the influence of the tides. 70 CHAPTER 111. Albanif — Schoharie — Carlisle — Cherry Val^ ley — Bridgewater — Madison — Morris* Flatts — Carenovia — Manlius — Auburn • — Scipio, June 26. HAVJNG accomplished the business which brought us to New York, we set oft* for Al- bany. The seenery up the Hudson is pe- culiarly hold and striking — the rocky banks of (he river generally rising almost perpen- dicular to the height of from 100 to 300 feet. These are, nevertheless, generally covered with trees to within a few yards of the summit, which is mostly 'M'ude, barren, and bare." Even the Catskill mountains, said to be upwards of 3000 feet elevated above the level of the sea, are covered with timber. From the numerous windin/irs of 71 tJiis noble river, the scenes are continually varying*. At otie time the eye is raised witli astonishment towards the tremendous cliflTs where the eagle soars with majestic flight, — in a moment the scene changes; and a beau- tiful landscape appears in view— ** Lver charming, ever new. When will the landscape tire the view ? The fountains fall, the rivers flow The woody vallies warm and low ; The windy summit* wild and high» Roughly rushing on the sky ; The town and village, dome and farm^ Each gives each a double charm." The bed of this river is deep and smooth to a great distance, through a hilly, rocky country, and even tlirough ridges of some of the highest mountains in the United Slates. It has been remarked that the Hud- son is the only rive?' in the United States, through which the ocean tides are carried over the pnmitiveand transition formatioiis, to the border of the western secondary. The tide flows above Albany, which is 154 ri^ 72 i miles from New York. It is nnvi^j;able for large vessels to Hudson, and for sloops to Albany. The produce of the remotest farms is easily and speedily conveyed (;0\vu this river to a certain market, at a smalf expcnce. In this respect. New York has ;^he advan- tage over Philadelphia^ A considerable pro])ortion of the prodiice, which is brought lo the market at the latter place, being con- veyed by land, which must be attended with great inconvenience and expence. A great number of steam vessels are con- tinually upon the river. Many of them are of a very large size, and cut their way through the water with great facility. Ac- commodations are provided for passengers on board, as well for sleeping as eating. In a vessel of this description we sailed from New York to Albany in twenty-six hours. The fare, including bed and board, was seven dollars each. There is a tax laid upon every passenger in these steam boats, which is appropriated to the canal fund. The aiTiTi'^iiate sum re- Q 73 91^^ ceived during the last year was about iwine- teen thousand dollars. The amount re- quired of each passenger, from New York to Albany, is one dollar. The sum of one hundred and sixty thou- sand dollars, taken from the income arising from sales at auction, was, last year, applied by the State Government, towards the fur- therance of the grand design of opening au inland uavigatic^ from Lake Erie to Albany. Albany. — Thk town, which is the seat of legislature for the State, is situated on the west side of the Hudson. Being a very old settlement, it will be readily imagined that the plan of the town is far from being uni- form. The old town is composed of streets narrow and irregular ; but those streets which have a more modern date, are laid out and built with more taste. Many of f 'lese buildings are covered with tin, which has some advantages over slate, tile, or shingles. I did not observe any appearance of rust. The houses are, for the most part, built of brick, and look well. The House L r mtfmm ; i 74 of Assembly is a noble structure^ standing upon an elevated situation at the bead of State street. Albany ale is almost as much famed in this country as London porter is throughout England. It is sold by the brewers for eiglit dollars^ or thirty-six shillings per barrel; and retailed by the tavern and hotel keepers at the rate of sixteen dollars, or twice the cost price. I was sorry to learn, that, al- though from the low price of malt and other ingredients in brewing, the brewers must receive a considerable profit, yet, some of them have been in the habit of infusing nox- ious drugs into the liquor. What monstrous wickedness, thus to undermine the constitu- tion and destroy the health of their fellow - creatures, by the use of these deleterious in- gredients, for the sake of a paltry gain ! This town is well watered from springs at the distance of two or three miles from the city — the water being conveyed to every part of the city by means of cast iron pipes. This being the great mart where the trade 75 of an extensive back country centres, houses and stores let very high. The great West- ern Canal from Lake Krie, as also the North- ern one from Lake Champlain, will join the river near this place. I have been favoured with a sight of the surveyor's estimate, for both these undertakings, from which it ap- pears that the aggregate length of the for- mer is about 350 miles, and the estimated expence upwards of one million pounds sterling. As this is an undertaking of great magnitude and importance to the State, and particularly to West New York, a brief ex- tract from the report of the commissioners, em{)loyed by the legislature of 'the State of New York to superintend the survey of the intended route, may no', be uninteresting to the speculative reader. The intended route of the Western Canal traverses two slopes and one valley. The first slope is from Albany to Rome. The distance from Albany to Rome is one hundred thirteen and a quarter miles, fol- lowing the canal, rising by an acclivity of i 76 fear hu j'ed uineteen one-thiid feet, fiora tick water in Hudson to the summit \c\e\ near Rome. A short distance west of the latter village a valley commences which reaches lo Bata- via, near the so-irces of the Tonnawania, This valley contains the Oneida, Seneca, and Genessee rivers. Near Batavia, commences the western or Erie slope. From Lake Erie to Seneca ri- ver, there is a fell of 194 (eet, which will re- quire twenty-five locks. From Seneca river to Rome a rise of 48^ feet and six locks. From Rome to Schoharie creek, a fall of 133 feet and sixteen locks. Schoharie creek to Albany, a fall of 286 fpet and ibu ty locks. Lake Erie is 564-J feet higher than tide water at Albany. The expence of the Northern Canal, from Lake Champlain to the Hudson at Ford Edward creek or Moses' kill, is calculated to be ab.yjt ^300,000 sterling. Acts have been passed by the State legis- lature of New York, appropriating funds 77 f<>r opening these navigable communica- tions. This magnificent undertaking is now in a state of forwardness. Jwie 28. — Left Albany for the Genessee country, by the Cherry Valley road, so call- ed to disfinguish it from the Utica road, which also leads from Albany. They form a junction near Auburn. For thefii*st twenty miles towards Duanes- burg, the face of the country has little of the interesting in its appearance. Our course lay throngh a tract of land of inferior quality, abounding with swamps and mo- rasses The road di rough these plaaes is none of the easiest for travellers, being com- p€)sed of round logs laid side by side. To- wards the Schoharie creek (about twenty- six miles west of Albany,) the soil is fertile and strong; but the settlements being of a recent date, the surface is generally covered with stumps, cut off at the height of about three feet from the gr?>und. These, in a few years, decay and became rotten, so that they are easily turned ocd by axen. The wtmmmm I 78 iilump of the pine is an exception. Partly from the nature of the soil which produces it, and partly from the quality of the wood itself, this son of the forest mocks alike the wishes and the efforts of the farmer, for a ]on*>- series of years. The idea of snugness, which has been said to be almost the ultimatum of an En- glishman's wishes, has no ri*^ht to intrude here. Transplant a fanntn- from his clear- ed, well fenced, and well cultivated farm in the old country; and place him upon a Jot of land liere, whert ho cannot possibly take more than two or three steps in one direc- tion widiout connn<^ in contp.ct with a stump ; — where he corld not possibly use aa Eu«^lish ploug'li ; — where his place of reiulenee is a log- ca!)in, perhaps in the nrKulle of an almost iai|)ervious foiest ; and where, in additi«>n to ell Ihese things appa- rently so disagrecdole t ad disadvantageous, in the comparison, he has to encounter, and U> struggle with, many privations of another nature, to wh/ di all new settlers in new 79 countries are unavoidably exposed, — what would be his sensations? Would not the cherished remembrance of the society he had left, the friends he had deserted, and the privileges he had bartered for a habitation in the desert; — would not these things, con- jured up by memory's retrospective power, rush upon his nnind, and, by making *^^the savage wilderness more wild,** bow down his soul with anguish and despair? The soul of man is a strange connpound of desires and affections. When these de- sires are placed upon a wrong object, or upon something out of our reach, we are necessarily disappointed in our search after it ; and the weight of the disappointment will be in proportion to the strength of our desire, and the warmth of our affection or esteem. In the case of emigration, the minds of too many are raised up to such a pitch of expectation, by the perhaps extra- vagant and exaggerated account of the blessings to be received in the " Land of Freedom,'* that, although the advantage of I RO the change may be coiisiderahle, ]ifi tmtfit be disappointed. The consequence is, ihwt from thinking too highly in anticipation, lie jiult^es too low in the possession of the real comforts to be enjoyed. Without a pat'-ent examination of both sides of this question, our natural prejudices in favour of old ha- bits, would be apt to produce what might possibly be a partial and an unjust conclu- sion. The land in Schoharie township seems to be of a good quality, and produces excel- lent wheat. When the Grand Canal, the line of which runs near this place, is com- pleted, its sitiiJition, with respect to markets, will be considerably improved, and, of course, the value of this land enhanced. From Schoharie to Cherry Valley, by way of Carlisle and Sharon, a distance of about twenty miles, the soil is strong and good, and seems particularly favourable for grass, if the pastures, which are very luxu- riant, may be taken as a criterion. In this raute we saw a picture of America in minia- i 81 1(1 jpfid ? is, tlint lion, lie the real patient [iicstioiJ, old ha- at» might ■, conclu- seems to es excel- inal, the is corn- markets, and, of iced. alley, by stance of ong and ;rable for ery luxu- In this in minia- fnre. In some places, nature still reigns with undisturbed swa;, and the gloomy fo- rest rears its majestic head to a wondrous height. Not a sound is heard^ save the screams of the birds of prey, or sometimes the crash of falling trees, which, being de- cayed through age, and unable longer to retain their post, fall down, and, crumhiing into dust, enrich the soil whence they sprung. Accidents have happened to travellers from trees falling across the road. Not long since, a young woman was returning from a visit to her relations, preparatory to her marriage. Her intended consort accom-' panied her on the journey. Alarmed at the prospoct of a storm, and anxious to gain a shelter, they pressed forward, but were over-* taken. A decayed oak, which, impelled by the blast, began to fall as they approached, struck the neck of his horse ; the young man escaped, bat his intended bride wa« crudied to death. I . l1l I 82 In other places, the process of girdling", chopping, burning, &c., is going forward, and the forest burns in all directions. ** Loud sounds the axe, redoubling strokes on strokes ; On all sides round, the forest hurls her oaks Headlong. Deep echoing groan the thickets brown ; Then rustling, crackling, crashing, thunder down." In many places improved farms are to be seen. N. B. Farms are called improved, when the settler, having chopped a few acres, has piled up into the form of a dwelling- house, a number of logs, which he has per- haps covered in with bark, fastened down with branches of trees ; or, as is sometimes the case, with boards or shingles. Lastly. — On some estates, which have been occupied, and under improvement for a considerable length of lime, (say twenty • years,) scarcely a vestige of their primitive state remains. Here the sight becomes cheering. The neatly painted framed build- ing proclaims the independence of its owner, while, at the same time, such buildings and 83 sMcli tanns serve to stimulale and encourage the industrious ne\v settlers to perseverance under every difficulty, by sllowing them that happv !?tate of mediocrity to which they are .sure to arrive by economy and patient in- diistrv. Such is the present state of the country, in our track to Brid^ewater, eighty miles west of Albany. It js merely a temporary outline. In a few years the face of this coun- try will have a more prepossessing appear- ance, and instead of being covered with timber, with the exception of a few scatter- ed hamlets and rude farms, will, I doubt not, present to the eye the observance of a well cultivated and thickly settled district. Cherry Valley — is a small town of considerable importance, in the centre of a delightful vale,^-the land being of the first- rate quality, and the farms in the neigh- bourhood considerably improved. A good farm might be purchased here for about six or seven pounds an acre, buildings included. There is at this place, as a matter of course. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V ^>%'. 1.0 I.I lii|21 12.5 ■50 ^^ B^H us u UO m L25|||,.4,j^ M 6" > / o Hiotographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRUT WiBSTEt.N.Y. MSSO (716)«73-4S03 n"- '^^ '6 84 fS!' a* banking establishment. The leading quesiioti which we were asked here; as well as at almost every place where we stopped, (and we called at every village,) was con- cerning the banks. After satisfying such enquirers^ it beoame our duty to ask, how doei land sell with you ? are there any farms now offered for sale? how does your pro- duce sell now, and what is the average price through the year? &c. &c. In answer to our enquiries here, we learn that great quan- tities are offered for sale, of every descrip- tions—that the prices vary in proportion to the eligibility of the situation and quality of the soil, from a dolla r per acre for the forest lands, to thirty for good farms with proper buildings. S ime proprietors offer a credit of ten yeai's, upon condition of the purcha- ser's paying a small percentage, by way of deposit or security, for the fulfilment of the contract. , We hear of six banks having shut up du- ring the last seven days. Various are the causes assigned for this disordered state of 85 iJve American currency. One cause secm«? to be the vast excess of paper — ai least three times the amount of metaUic money. In consequence of the disturbances in South America, the supplies of bullion have been very limited, while the demand for it, by the operation of other causes, has been encreas- ed. The metallic money is also consider- ably diminished, by vast exportations to China and the E^st Indies,— the balance of trade, which is in favour of these and olher places in the East, being paid in specie. The conduct of the American Govern- ment in encouraging: the erection of new banking institutions, has, it appears, tended to encrease the disorder, by promoting the increase of the issue of bank paper, by a forced circulation of notes. To remedy this great and growing evil, the Congress will, doubtless, make use of energetic mea- sures. MoHRiS'TbfTN — the metropolis of Madi- son county, is a beautiful little town, situated upon a tract of land called Morris' Flatts, 86 Tcry rich arid perfectly level. Although this place is only two or three years old, there are a number of very elegant build- inijs in the main street. It must be a mat- ter of astonishment to every Englishman^ to see these new towns. They are so regu- larly laid out ; — so neatly built ; — they soon assume the appearance of brisk trading* places, encreasing" in wealth and growing* in prosperity ; — that we ard sometimes al- most ready to conclude that the whole is a delusion of fancy, — the offspring of the ima- gination, divested of the guardianship of reason ; — did not the evidence of our senses come to the aid of truth, and fully establish the fact of their reality. From Bridgewater to this place we had a very pleasant ride of about twenty-one miles. The country is rather mountainous, and is only new, i. e. has not been long broken in- to, for the purpose of being cleared and cultivated. The settlements are all of a re- cent date, but the soil is almost invariably good, and the climate healthy. Timothy, 87 grain of all kinds, and potatoes, are grow- in*;^ amongst the stumps. I ought not to omit mentioning the hop-yards. These are an appendage to almost every estate in this Ills farm and stock ; in direct taxes and rates, parochial and parliamentary. But it must be observed tliat a considerable portion of this, in the form of a county*rate, is laid out for his immediate and direct benefit, in the improvement of roads, bridges, &c. n^ The general government of the United States is chiefly supported by indirect taxes^ or duties on tonnage, wares and merchaU' disc, at the time and place of importation, and by the sale of public lands. The an- nual expenditure for the support of the civil government and the army and navy, has been estimated at two millions six hundred and fifty-five thousand pounds sterling, in- dependent of the sinking fund, which is near- ly as much. James Monroe, the President of the United States, receives as a compen- sation for his services in the government of thfs extensive country, a yearly salary of £5,625. Daniel D. Tomkins,of New York, the Vice-President, 1125. The salaries of all the servants of the pui)- lie, in every department of the Federal Go- no vernment, are in the same ratio. The two Secretaries of State have each a salary of £1,350 a-year. The Chief Justice £1,125. (a-year. The Attorney-General £787 10^, Their Ambassadors to England, France, l^ussia, the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, and Sweden, each £2,025 per annum, &c. Thus it appears evident, that although their laws and their system of gpvernraent may be modelled after ours, yet in the article of expence they dissent very widely. This day we attended at a meeting of the magistracy, which was held in this town^ S»hip. There being no court-house erected as yet, the place of meeting was a tavern. It so happened that this was the day ap- pointed for " opening the cellar ;" we were, accordingly, called upon to partake of the festivities of the occasion. Decanters, con- taining spirituous liquors of almost every description, being placed upon a table in the centre of the room, every man was in- vited to take what he pleased. At such a meeting in England, nine-tenths of th^ Ill Company would have been >.s silent as stn-« tues; — here, independence of spirit, and* freedom of discussion, prevailed, and every ' man seemed to consider himself entitled to a' hearing. The magistrate, the farmer, and the mechanic, viere so far on a level. A superiority of intellect seemed to be the' only claim to distinction. We were introduced as English traveller, who, feeling a partiality for their country, had crossed the Atlantic, in order to satisfy our minds, by personal enquiry. A gene- ral desire of being useful to us seemed to pervade the company. Almost every man/ it must he observed, has travelled more or' less, and an American will discourse about places several hundred miles distant from' his home, with a knowledge so circumstan- tial as to he truly admirable. Some of the most enlightened, manifested a strong de- sire to be acquainted with the state of the country we had left. Happening, in the' course of conversation, to allude to the tith- ing system, one of the company requested 112 roc to explain my meaning more fully. 1 told him that '' by tithes I meant a tenth of every man's hay and corn, turnips and po- tatoes, his geese and his pigs, his eggs, his wool, &c. &c. — which he is obliged to pay to the parson (whether he goes to church or not) for his spiritual assistance." My assertion was received by several with an incredulous smile. But when the querist understood from some of the company that "the thing was really so," and that it was customary for the clergy to send their carts into the fields of their parishioners in order to take away the corn and hay, he conld not conceal his astonishment, — but declared, with great emphasis, "that were he subject- ed to such treatment, he would shoot the first man that entered his fields with that desijrn." The chairman of the magistrates, who had lately filled the seat of the representa- tive of this district in the House of Assem- bly, invited us to his house, and pressed us to make it a place of call should we ever, in. U3 1 the course of our travels, come that way fetgam* From the above account it may be seen, that whatever may be said by ^'slippery'* travellers and others, to prove that a deep- rooted animosity exists in the minds of the native Americans against English and oihet emigrants^ ought at least to be received with suspicion. If these travellers have treated them as inferiors, such conduct has brouglit down upon their own heads the contempt such conduct deserved. This contempt may have been miscalled animo- sity. So far as I have yet seen, I have cer- taii^y had no reason to complain. The very reverse. It has, I believe, been already noticed, that there are a great number of farms in the market at present. They may be pur- chased of every dimension, from the garden lot, to 640 acres. Buildings, for the most part, are neat and good. This township being, comparatively speaking, an old set- lU ■ r- tiement, log huts have given way to the* more elegant branches of architecture. A good framed dwelling-house, with stone^ cellars, maybe raised for 500 dollars. This will be '*^ very comfortable and convenient/* and better calculated to resist the wintry blast, than may be imagined. The cellar is dug out, and built with stone, upon which, as a foundation, the frames are raised. These are cased over with boards on the outside, and laths and plaster on the inside. In some instances the outer coat is made double. These boards are about six inches broad, are made smooth, and, when fastened, are generally painted white or green, and will last a century. In laying these on, they begin at the bottom of the building, the edge of the next board lays upon (not joints in with,) the lower, and so on. It will be seen from the price of the chief material, (wood,) that the labour is the principal cause of expence in building. Glass sells here a^ 10c?. sterling per footr 115 A corn crib, with ia barn of framed tim- ber, and covered with rough sawn boards^ containing an area of two hundred square yards, and finished with stabling, will cost about eighty guineas. A log cabin four or five. The price of farms in Scipio, with proper put-buil lings, varies from 20 to 25 and SO dollars peracre^ according to circumstances. Some very choice situations with extraordi- nary buildings, would, of course, command more. I have been surprized to find so ma- ny fine farms offered for sale. I see no ap- pearances indicative of poverty, and yet al- most every estate in this township might be pu rchased. Grain of all kinds scviuis to sell higher here than in most of the new coun- tries. Land, I believe, may be bought here twenty per cent, lower than on the banks of the Ohio, while at the same time it is de- monstrable that grain is worth commonly from thirty to a hundred per cent, more here, than in the above-mentioned district, I see no way of solving this difficulty but by 116 admitting that the price of land is less de- pendant on the quality of the soil and the commercial advantages^ than on the number of purchasers. The spirit of emigration seems nearly sufficient to counterbalance any eflect which might be produced by the numerous sales in this county. Great numbers of silk worms are ralsccl and fed in this township. One gentleman of my acquaintance, who, till lately, kept a great number of these valuable reptiles, says that he could manufacture silk for nearly the same expence as tow cloth. How far this assertion may be correct, I cannot take upon me to say, but I am certain, from the great quantity of mulberry trees growing in the neighbourhood, they may be kept at a small expence. 1 saw several thousands of these industrious creatures in one room. - Some farmers are accustomed to have their shoes made in their own houses, by men who travel, as tailors do in the country parts of Old England. The rate of charge is from 2s. 3d. to 3s. 6eZ. (English) per pair. IIT the employer findin<^ leather and victuals, A pair of Suwarrow boots are made for 18s, and when bought ready made^ will cost about a guinea and a half. The estimated cost of clearing wood land, 's the same wherever we have travelled—^ about 14 dollars per acre. How this is done it may not be amiss to explain. I have al- ready noticed, that the stumps of trees are invariably (except in the roads) left staud^ ing. The upper part, when cut oiF, is im- mediately ^'chopped** into about twelve feet lengths. As many rails as may be wanted are then split off. One man can make 200 of these in a day. They are piled up to a considerable height, so as to form a good fence, but (hese have an awk- ward appearance. The remainder of the wood is rolled into heaps, and burnt to ashes, which are sometimes sold to the soap- maker. As soon as the trees are cut down, and the groinid cleared from every thing but stumps, the surface, unless the season is far advanced, which is seldom the case whUo 118 the ''chopping " lasts, is soon covered >vith vhite clover, which springs upspontaneous» ]y ill great abundance. We assisted in turning out some stumps, which had stood about eight years. They were quite decayed. Until these are got out of the way, the plough is seldom see a amongst them. The harrow alone pre- pares the ground for a crop or two of Indi^ an corn and wheat; the field is then proba- bly laid down, or perhaps, more properly in many instances, suffered to lay, it not being absolutely necessary to sow it with grass seeds. We were shown some fields covered with heavy crops of grass and clover, which had sprung spontaneously, this being the first year after a crop of grain. In this state is a field belonging to Mr. Kellett's estate, which, having produced ten fine crops of grain without the aid of manure, was suffered to rest. It now bears a crop of grass little inf(3rior to what might have been expected had grass seeds been ' y\-» Jc^I'lv sown. 119 The fertility of the soli atmost exceedj^ belief. Mr. K.'s horse-pasture of five acreSj in which he has grazed four as good horses as I have yet seen, all this season, and also some cows and working oxen occasionally, is nevertheless covered with such a super- fluity of grass and clover, as to appear at a distance more like a meadow field than a horse-pasture. This is not an exaggerated statement. This last- mentioned^ as well as several others of this gentleman's fields^ are freed from stumps. It does not require much logic to prove, that such land as this is worth £6 an acre> or £7 with buildings included. 120 CHAPTER IV. Cayuga — Geneva — Canandagua — Avon—^ Genesse — Caledonia — Batavia — Buffalo, July 2. Left Sclplo for Buffalo, Lake Erie. On our road to Auburn we met with an eques-* trian traveller, an En£rlishman. He had re- cently seen Mr. Birkbeck, in the Illinois, and Mr, Ross, in the so much talked of Bristol settlement, in the Susqueliannah county. He did not much approve of the former situation, chiefly on account of it» ♦unhealthiness— it being surrounded with wet prairies, which independent of their baneful influence upon the atmosphere,^ make the neighbourhood very disagreea- ble. Bilious fevers, which in some in- stances have proved fatal, are breaking out 121 In the settlement^ and emigrants are ad^ vaucin*]: forwards to the Missouri. Our route lay over the Cayuga lake, which we crossed over a bridge two thou- sand yards in length! The first bridge, which was built here in 1800, was broken clown by the ice. It was again repaired in 1818, and was only saved from destruction, by the intrepidity of one of the proprietors, who descended singly upon the ice, which had just reached the bridge, and with an axe equalized the pressure till the whole jnass ceased to move. The bridge is per- fectly level, and is supported by an immense quantity of wooden props, driven in to a great depth. Prom the bridge we have a fine prospect of the lake. The irregularity of its shores adds much to its beautv. Prom this spot it extends south-south-ea$t abou| thirty-five miles, but the south half of that distance, is hidden by hills. There are two little villa£:es called East and West Cayuga; so named from thaif re^ spective situations at each end of thebrid^ %lk 123 The Grand Canal interlocks wHIj the Sc-* ncca riveij (the ontlet of Seneca lake,) a- bout two miles and a half west of Caynga bridge. There are some falls upon this ri- yer within view of the road, not indeed of any considerable height, bnt sufficiently so to make locks necessary. There are some good and yalaable mill seats upon this stream. The influence of these in gathering villages, has often been remarked. Both at thii^ place, and at Waterloo, three miles further west, the erection of mills has been as it were the signal for the commencement of im- provement. The latter place, which ha* lately become the capital of Seneca county, 18 a flonrishing town, built mostly of brick, on the banks of the Grand Canal, but sur- rounded by a country rather too tow and wet. The arable hnds are not considered 80 productive as those further to the south. The father of a young officer in the Ame- rican army, with whom I have the honour to be well acquainted, was the first settler in this neighbourhood, about twenty yeara 123 ago. d o n A tribe of Indians were in the vicini- ty^ One of the Indians^ being incensed at some injury which he had received, or ima- gined be had received, from some of the whites, wbo by this time were gathering round Mr. Birdsall, committed some depre- dation which could not be overlooked. He was accordingly ordered to be arrested. Several men in making the attempt were wounded or killed by the savage. At length he was secured by the following stratagem. A plan was concerted that some person should get upon the roof of his cabin in the dead of the night. At day-light, some others at a distance were to make a noise, in order *o rouse the savage, and bring him to the door : the man above was then to throw himself upon him, and disarm or seize him. This was accordingly done, and when he rushed to the door with his rifle in his hand, the man upon the roof sprung upon him, seized and secured him. He was tried and executed in the midst of his tribe, not one 124 of whom (such was their detestation of bisi deeds) offered to lift a hand for his rescue. Geneva — distant about twenty miles from Auburn. This is one of the principal towns in the western district^ and is finely situated at the north-east corner of Seneca lake, over which it commands a delightful prospect. This lake is about forty miles in length, and from four to six in width. It was observed by a fellow-traveller, that this town derived its name from the similarity of the lake near which it stands, to that of Ge- neva, in Switzerland. In our route to this place from Waterloo, and particularly to- wards the lake, we found the surface of the ground to consist chiefly of swamps and sand-banks. The soil, however, in the im- mediate vicinity, improves considerably in in quality, and the situation of the town is by no means marshy or low. From Geneva to Canairdaigua, the coun- try is very beautiful. The surface is roll- ing, and so disposed by the hand of nature 125 as readily to discliar<^e the superfluous wa- ter in rainy seasons. The acer saccharinum (sugar maple) abounds. Cjnandaigua — has been called the finest village in the United States. It is only about thirty years old, and contains, it is computed, about 2,000 inhabitants. In the main street, which is about two miles in length and very wide, the houses are parti- cularly elegant. These being for the most part shaded by trees, the place has a neat- ness and elegance which cannot well be described. The situation of this place is, like Geneva, on the banks of a fine lake. The land is of good quality, and many of the farms are well cleared. The price of land may be stated at from seven to nine pounds an acre, with proper buildings. It is a place of considerable business, and is the seat of justice for Ontario county. There are two banks, viz. the Ontario, and the Utica branch bank, established here. The country to the west of CanandaiguA to East Bloomfield is pleasunt^ and has uu^ 19« (Icrgono consideruble improvement. The soil appears^ in many places, to be of a niarly nature, which is accounted for by its vicinity to a large bed of limestone, called the limestone ledge. Perhaps this tract may be considered inferior to that between Ge- r.evaand Canandaigiia. West Bloomfield — thirteen milest W. of the last-mentioned place, is a village of considerable importance. In this tract, and more particularly in the county of Lima, we observed some excellent crops of wheat. The genera of trees, will be to every tra-. veMer an object of great interest. By an attentive observance of these, he may in some measuse distinguish the nature of the respective soils upon which they grow. Here the Pinus, the larch excepted, the Taxus, and the Juniper tree, with some others, constitute a natural assemblage of j)lants, which seldom intrude upon soils well adapted to the labours of the Agriculturist, but, retiring to the swamp, the sandy waste, the precipice, the hill and the mountain^ roj Ci Til an( 127 give verdure to the wintry landscape. Ont road was often bordered by patches of the Clcuta maculata, or poisonous hemlock. Thiis is considered an unwelcome intruder, and cannot easily be exterminated. Considerable quantities of plaster are used here. How this operates as a manure upon land, philosophers are not well agreed. Many ingredients of the plaster stone might be enumerated, upon the proportion of which the value of the stone must depend. Orte thing appears to be generally admit- ted, that the soil may receive with it impe- rishable and fertilizing additions. Most, if not all the formers, who are in the habit of nsing plaster, of whom we made enquiry concerning its properties, entertained the opinion that it either attracted moisture, or that land sown with it retained the moisture longer than that without it. '' For instance,*' say they, '' dew will lay an hour longer upon plastered than upon unplastered land,"— This observation is corroborated by the fact, that it 18 a propijrty of sulphuric acid, which 128 IS one ingredient in the plaster stone, to at- tract water from the atmosphere. Some writers, from an observation of the benefit of common salt and other minerals in the animal economy, have considered the operation of salt upon vegetables as analo^ gous; and, accordingly, have classed it as a stimulant. Bui the following objections, started by Mr. David Thomas, of Aurora, to whom 1 am indebted for much informa- tion on this, as well as many other subjects, demand some attention. 1st. On some soils, where the vegetable matter has been reduced and the laud mel- lowed by frequent ploughings, not the small- est benefit from this manure has been per- ceived ; but on restoring the vegetable mat^ ter, the effect of gypsum is striking. 2nd. On the same soil, from which gyp- sum produces a luxuriant vegetation, sim- ple culture has an eflfect similar and not le^iS remarkable. 3rd. The same result is also produced by rain water in small and frequent applications. 129 4llu Animal substances. It would be desirable to know, why in all these cases, that mineral is not equally ne- cessary. Or, if it be, whence and in what manner is the supply obtained. Avon. — This village, situated about twenty-three miles west of Canandaigua, is neither remarkable for its size nor in^./r* tance. But its site, upon an elevated pl^in> skirted by the Genessee river, is peculiarly j)lcasant. We were here first gratified with the sight of some Indian squahs (women). Their appearance w^as well calculated to ex- cite disgust in the minds of any; but moi^e particularly in those who had not been ac-^ customed to the sight of such objects. Their upper garments Were dirty blankets; un- derneath these were short petticoats, and something like stockings and shoes or san* dais below. Each of them had a load upon her back suspended to a belt which came over the brow. s 130 It wns almost niarlit when we reacTTed tlie lavern where we intended to lods^e. There were several hunters, or backwoodsmen^ sitting in the house, with their rifles betweert their knees. This sight, so frequent in new countries, of fierce-looking semi- barbarous: hunters, is not calculated to inspire the mind of the British traveller with any very pleas- ing emotions, or strong desires of sctthngin such a neighbourhood. But I saw not the least symptom of rudeness or indecency; on the contrary, the behaviour of . these men,^ though in appearance no better than a sa- vage banditti,^ was respectful and proper. These hunters are, for the most part, pro- prietors of soil. I conjecture, that poverty has been, in some degree, the cause of this apparent indolence. At their first settle- ment here, the lands were in a state of na-^ ture, consequently the returns of agriculture were slow and limited. The forest oflTered* a supply of food, and the gun was resorted to as the means of procuring a subsistence,. 131 At first, the settle r miglit only use his gun oc- casionally, to satisfy the imperious calls of ne- cessity ; but these pursuits have a tendency to grow upon the mind. Thus the labours of the field are neglected, and habits unfa- vourable to Industry acquired. These men seldom grow rich. It might be imagined, from the seemingly lawless habits of these backwoodsmen, that crimes would abound. The almost imper- vious forest and the swampy marsh offer so many secure retreats to the offender, that the greatest offences might be committed with impunity. But facts plainly prove, tliat notwithstanding so many circumstances concur to banish the idea of responsibility, crimes are very rare. Suppers and breakfasts are much in the same style here as in the more eastern parts through which we have travelled. At these meals the mistress of the house generally presides. Except at these times, she is sel- dom seen. We have, generally, several $orts of bread, coffee, fish, eggs, stewed fruit. 132 butter, cheese, cutlets, &c. &c. TItcsfc tilings require some preparation, and if the traveller, anxious to be forward, should be 80 imprudent as to seem impatient or angry at the delay, it is much if he is not punished for it, by having longer to wait. We were, for the most part, charged half a dollar for each meal, in travelling. At the inferior taverns, accommodation might be had at a lower rate. We passed through an Indian settlement about three or four miles westward of Avon, Their huts are very li)w ; chiefly, if not without exception, made of logs, " chunked " with clay and covered with bark. As we passed this place at day-break, we did not observe any of the inmates stirring. The Genessee river is crossed here by a bridge, which is of the same construction as that at Trenton. Thouoh this river is in general very deep, yet it is said to be fordable in the summer season. Sdme of the famous Genessee flats lie on the western margin of this river, at this place. The 133 soil upon lliese fliiis is alluvial, extremely deep, and very fertile, but they seldom ex- tend further than from a mile to a mile and a half from the banks of the stream. This is an I»idian reservation. The river is here about 70 yards wide. It rises in Potter county, Pennsylvania, near the sources of the Alleghany, yfhh wliich it in- terlocks, and, after running* about 120 miles, falls into the Lake Ontario, below Roches- ter. Crossing this flat, we entered upon a large plain. The soil here is liglit atid gravelly, but bearing good crops. What is matter of some surprize, the Quercus Alba, or white oak, which almost exclusively prevails here, is small and stunted. Perhaps this may be partly accounted for, from the vicinity of the limestone rocks, which are here very near the surface. There are some exten- sive fields of wheat in this district, althongh jt appears to be scarcely inhabited. This description of soil extends about four or five wiles in a westerly direction, towards Cale^ 134 (loTiia^ a small village of about 20 houses. There is a remarkably lar^^e spring at this place, which, issuing from a bed of lime- stone, carries a grist mill, a saw mill, and ssome carding mills, within a few yards of the spring. Limestone abounds here in every field. The soil is black and fertile; a mixture of decomposing rock and vegeta- ble matter, — and would form excellent sheep-pastyres. We observed several stone walls here. Allen's creek, six or seven miles west of Caledonia, is a very valuable stream: there bein"- a number of mills wpon it. From what I have hitherto seen of this country, these small streams are rare- ly to be met with in the summer season. Leroy — is a new, pleasant village. We saw many fine farms in our route this day, bearing abundant crops. It is said that the land in the State of Ohio, is better calculat- ed for producing heavy crops of Indian corn, than that in the Genessee country ; but that this produces more and finer wheat. This appears probable, when we consider 135 tliat tliongli the former is found every where oil all soils and climates from Canada to the Mexican gulf, yet the ground most conge- nial to its growth does not differ much from that suitable to cotton^ which must have a warm sun. The timber, after leaving the oak lands before-mentioned, is mostly beech and ma- plCj which is indicative of a soil of superior quality. Wherever the sugar maple flou- rishes, the soil iis favourable for the produc- tion of timothy. This thrives well on a strong marly soil. The eastern boundary of the Holland Company's purchase is crossed six miles east of Batavia. This boundary is an open- ing of considerable width, and through a large extent of woody country, in a direct line. This ''purchase" is part of the tract ceded to Massachusets, on a compromise of the claims of that State, whose charter covered all the lands directly westward to the Pacific Ocean. Thiis cession extended only to the private right of soil. The quau- 136 tlty sold to the Holland Company was (if I mistake not) three millions and a half of acres, which was valued at less than three- pence an acre. Such property, at that time, it would seem, was considered a burden to the State ; and to dispose of it, on any terms, an act of patriotism. A prodigious quan- tity of this land is now under cultivation^ having been sold by the co'^nany, who have pocketed immense sums by their spe- culation, many of the lands having been sold at an advance of from eight to twenty- four thousand per cent, upon the original purchase. They have a land office at Ba- tavia, kept by a Mr. Ellicott. This gen- tleman's situation \s very lucrative, his re- muneration being seven percent, upon the amount of the purchase- money, for all the land sold by him. He has realized an im- mense property. Batafij — ^the capital of Genessee coun- ty, may contain about four or five hundred inhabitants. At th% west end of this town, the arsenal, built of stone, twos iories high. 137 ttppetirson an eminence to great advfliitagc. Tliis building we arc informed, is guarded by a detachment of soldiers. The town it- self has a picastint and lively appearance; tlift houses arc neat, some of them elegant. A fine court-house, built of brick, and a beautiful church, adorn the centre of the town. But its situation, and indeed that of all the adjacent country, is too low and marshy to be healthy, and there are many ponds and marshes in the immediate vicini- ty. We noticed some cedar swamps and *;roves of hemlock in Uiis neighbourhood. Intermittents are prevalent. The Grand Canal passes this place at no great distance from Cataviay which, of course, enh?anccs I'fie value, and will pnomote the sale, of the Company's land's. To enc?oiirage the pro- jectors, the Company has, I am informed, presented totlie Canal fund 100,000 acres. Tof^nawanta creek, a considerable stream^ watei^ this pkce, and furrtisheSj by its falld Gear the eeutre of th^ town, some situations T 138 for mills. It is a heavy dull stream, more resembliDg a canal than a river. luour-i-oute towards Buffalo we passed over another Indian reservation. The soil is generally li^ht, butappareiitly very fruit- ful. Here it lays upon a bed of limestone^ which may be the reason, as hinted before, why the timber looks stunted and poor. Some of the Indians in this settlement are reputed good farmers ; but I saw little proof of their skill in this science. Their atten- tion is mostly turned to raising cattle. Their predilection for this is readily accounted for. We were here indafeed \vith asig-ht of some female Indians. Jt was impossible to pefrain from laughter at the sight of the lit- tle papooses (children). These are carried by their mothers upon their backs, being fastened to a board from their infancy, A cloth covers the child up to its chin, so that only the head is visible. It will be readily imagined, that the child and the uioth<^)r 139 must look opposite ways. Their colour is a deep copper. Altogether, their appear- ance was novel and grotesque. WiLLiAMSFJLLE — a Small village, re- inarkable for its water- falls and mill-seats. The limestone rock abounds here : so much so, that in many places it is too rocky to be nrable. We have some tim€ since taken leave of the beech and hemlock,, and the shrubby white oak becomes the principal timber. The season is evidently not so for- ward as at Scipio. All the Indians weh'ad hitherto met with were females, dressed in much the same style as those first described. At the dis- tance of about two houi-s ride from Buffalo, we met one of th§ir warriors upon his pranc- ing charger. He was magnificently dress- ed, and ornamented with several shells and pieces of silver, which he had hung round iiim. He was a good looking man, but had a dark lowering countenance. The road for many miles here is extreme- i^ bad, being formed of wood laid cross* 140 livayg. I have already described the man^ ner of foriKiing these roads. Woe to the man who attempts to ride over them in a fuqr- wheeled vehicle ! ! Approaching' Buffalo, many fine farms pr^euted themselves to onr view. The laud is of the first-rate quality, and the cropa^ particularly r.fter passing Murder creek, abundant. It is computed that ve- getation is two weeks later here than in Ca- yuga county, which is accounted for by the vicinity of the great lake. The town itself was bid from our view, by the intervening ridge, until we were just upon it. It is a beautifully built place, not equalled in this respect by any inland town which I have yet seen, except Cunandaigua, ovex which it has many other advantages. The houses being mostly built of brick, and the streets laid out upon a regular plan, it has. ^ neatness in its appearance which is peculiar to American towns. The centre street is of a great length and width, and is ftUnost filled up with feuiWings. AU th« 141 other streets are merely skeletons. iPer- hnps the number of inhabitants may fall short of 1,500. During the late war in 1813, every house in Buffalo, with the exeeptioii of a black - smith's shop, was burnt down by the Brit- ish and their Indian allies. In caf^es where the public good demands the sacriBce of private property, (e. g. the burning of Mos^ co'.v, which saved tlie Russian empire,) it may perhaps be done without blame; but when, as in the case before us, i( is offered up as a sacrifice upon the altar of Revenge, it can answer no end whatever but to pro* voke a spirit of retaliation. It can be do excuse to plead that such things are agree- able to the laws of war; — for if it is, these laws, nursed by the worst passions in the human heart, are as detestable as the mind that first broached them was wirked and diabolical. If war must be, — if nations must oo to war with each other — let the ex^ pences and the losses be national. Let pub^ Ik? property suffer, but let that of privato 142 'i individuals be held sacred. Tt has been truly said^ " that the laurels of the warrior are often stained with the tears of the widow and the orphan. The market for produce is exceller*. along the margin of the great lakes. This, and the Genessee, has one great advantage over many other places in the Union, viz. a choice of markets. Flour is now selling at nine dollars per barrel of 196 lbs., or 2^. iO^d. per stone. I am informed, that it seldom sells for less than 28. 3d, Corn at about 6s. 9d., and potatoes at from is, 6d, to 6s. 9d. per bushel. Other things in pro- portion. In fact, there does not appear to be here any obstacle to the acquisition of wealth by the industrious farmer. True, (he climate is not so pleasant as it is in many parts of the Union; but it is healthy, an J the soil under its influence produces excel- lent crops. • Buffalo creek enters Lake Erie just be- low the town. Within the mouth of this creek there is sufficient depth and eonveni-* 143 ence for a considerable navy, but there is no wharf but what nature has formed. A bar of sand across the month of the creek, is an impediment to the entrance ; but it has been for some time in contemphition to erect a pier, and make some other improve- ments. In illustration of this snbjecf, I shall, without apology, insert the following letter from a gemleman at Detroit. '' In conformity to my promise, enclosed is an official statement from the Collector's office in this place, iu relation to your que- ries. " At Buffalo I was fortunate in finding Captain Butler, on his way to open Grand River, where a company :s formed for that purpose. Capt. Butler has made himself celebrated by opening eight bars from Middleton to Hartford on Connecticut river, so as to admit the free passage of nine feet, instead of five feet, water. His plan is no- vel, simple, cheap, and effectual. It is merely to drive in piles over a sand bar, from the opposite sides ; to leave a suffici- 144 ifiii openingj and then fill in hrush. The first freshet settles the sand amongst it, so as to form a complete beach, and by the pressure of the water through the passages, a permanent channel is forced open. "At Buffalo the obstacles are easily re* moved, and a good harbour and basin may be formed for about twenty-five or thirty thousand dollars About six hundred feet from the shore we fonnd sand and ten and a half feet water; at 1463 feet, eighteen and a half feet water; the last nine hundred feet clay, and good anchorage. Within the creek, abnn dance of water, and room euongh for the British navy. " At Dunkirk, forty-five miles west of B«ffulo> we found a spacious bay, with two^ channels kadipg into it, the one on the west, 13 feet water ; on the east, 10 feet. In front of the bay, nature has farmed a barrier of ftat rocks about fifty feet wide, but, unfortunately, it is about four feet be- low the surface of the lake. It is in the liands of wealthy men in Albany, wlws) have 145 erected an expensive pier within the bay, and have laid ont a town. They contem- plate piHng stones on the rock in front. Should this be successful, an excellent har- bour will be formed. "From Buffalo to Dunkirk is 45 miles Dunkirk to Erie 45 Erie to Grand River 75 Grand River to Cleveland 30-195 " At Grand River, State of Ohio, the bar will be effectually removed, and a good har- bour (the first on Lake Erie) formed during this month, as Butler is there with a large foice, and pressing it with vigour. . •' At Cleveland, thirty miles above Grand River, a bar across the entrance i§ the only obstacle to a good harbour; as there are from 18 to 25 feet water five miles up, we sliirted them to go on immediately. "A light-house is now erecting at Buffa- lo, and another at Erie. In conclusion, as the steam-boat is on the point of starting on 4his lake — the light-houses erecting — ^har- bours forming — and the lake more free from u 146 shoals aind rocks than atiy other navfgatioiY of a given extent ;— a great change is oit the point of taking place." The above will serve to give some idea of the exertions the Americans are capable of making* View these improvements in con- nexion with that of the Grand Ganal fromr Bufialo to Albany, and the inference will be, that a most extensive trade will be car- ried on between the eastern ports and the nortli-western territory as soon as these improvements can be completed ; and as a ns^tural consequence^ all the towns form ing^ links in this chain of trade must rise rapid*- ly in importance. Speculations npon such subjects are endless. Canals have been projected to unite the hcnd waters of the lUinpis with the Lake Michigan, and it is stated as a fact, '^that a boat may sail from St. Mary% proceed past Detroit, and through lakes St. Clair and Huron by Mi- ehilimacinac (pronounced Mackinaw), up Lake Michigan, and out through the Chi- cago river into the river Pleiij, and down <»'! 1- U7 tlie Illinois into the Mississipi, without ever beinir unloaded — a distance of inland navi- gation not known in the world elsewhere." Sliould this source of communication be opened, either by the route above-mention- ed, or, which is of infinitely greater import- ance^ by uniting Lake Erie \*^ith the Wa- bash, a sloop navigation would be opened between these lakes and New Orleans.' This would be a death stroke to Mr. Cob- bett's argument, in his second ]fetter to Mr. 15irkbeck, when speaking of a market for his produce. He says, '' In case of a tvar with England, what would become of your market down the Mississipi ? That is your sole market. That way your produce must go, or you must dress yourselves in skins and tear your food to bits with your hands. Yet that way your produce could not go, unless this nation were to keep up a navy equal to that of England. On this side the mountains, there are twelve hundred miles of coast to blockade ; but you, gentlemen prairie owners^ are like a rat that has but H8 one hole to go out and come in lu ' &c. &c. Whether another *Mi(»]e*' may be opened or not, is a secret hidden in the womb of futurity. The Americans have spirit attd enterprize for any undertaking ; and when we consider, that the canal now forming will tend to lower the value of all grain shij^ped down the Ohio, I have little doubt but, if funds can be raised, those who are injured by the present undertaking, will at least attempt to repair the injury, by continuing the water communication by way of the lakes, in the route before pointed out. After examining the light-house, which is constructed upon a new plan, the light being reflected from a number of circular plates, we descended to the banks of the lake, which was extremely agitated. There had been a considerable storm the day be- fore, which had done some damage. The storms upon these lakes are sometimes very dangerous — the waves not running as high, but breaking more quickly than those iii 149 tlie ocean. The more I examine the posi- tion of these lakes, the more I am surprized that thieir importance has not attracted more attention. The tonnai»e already employed on them is very j^reat. Tlie general deplli of the water of Lake Erie is sufficient for ships of any tonnage, and it is so situated as to form an extensive chain of connexion between very distant members of the Uni- ted States, and, as an American has observ- ed, "Marine warfare has already on its surface exhibited all the bold and prominent features of a naval combat,*' and (he does not forget to add) " One of the most ver- dant of American laurels was gained on the face of Lake Erie.** It has been said, " Give the commerce of these lakes an outlet to the ocean, and these shores will rival in prosperity the shores of the Mediterranean.*' Mr. Gonrlay, who has been for some time imprisoned by the orders of the Assembly of Upper Canada, has published, in an address to the parlia- mentary representatives of Upper Canada, 150 "u prospectus of timplaii of a canal froril Lake Erie, and for improving the naviga- tion of the St. Lawrence and the Lake On- liirio, so that vessels might proceed without iiiterruption from England to the extremi- ties of lakes Michigan and Superior, and ieturn home the same season, instead of first unshipping (he goods designed for Upper Canada, at Quehec; then unboating and warehousing ihem at Montreal ; coasting them to the ditch canal, and then parcel- ling them out anriong petty craft, for for* warding to Kingston,*' &c. &c. The plail is certainly a noble one, but from the pecu- liar situation of tlie Canadas, as colonies of Great Britain, and other local circumstances, it will, 1 think, be sometime before it is adopted. Tiiere are immense quantities of first-rate land in the vicinity of these lakes. A fine steam vessel, called " Walk-in-the-wa- facture. Their hair is generally black and very strong, and their colour nearly allied to that of copper. I had some conversation with the chief of a tribe. But he is virtually degraded by his conduct from all authority. His name is Fish-hook. It was easy to see that the Indians were averse to the acceptance of the proposal for surrendering their right. They displayed considerable ability in. the treaty. Red Jacket, the chief of the warriors, spoke aboTC an hour with great ability. When the question was put, the proposal was de- cisively negatived. Ill oi 155 This morning was ushered in by the firing of great guns, in token of the arrival of the anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. At many of the principal tov/ns and cities, preparations have been making for some time for this great carnival. It is kept up as a holiday throughout the Union. Whilst we were standing in the park, on the north side of the town, a bullet whizzed close past us. We had observed a person a little below us in a small marsh with a gun in his hand. Before taking my leave of this interesting place, t will just observe, that in all proba- bility the carriage of goods from New York to the Western States will, in a short time, be chiefly by way of Buffalo, or Hamilton. The following extract of a petition, circu- lated for signatures in Chatauque county, is calculated to throw some light upon this subject. After proving that the shortest and best communication from Lake Erie to the Ohio is by way of Fredonia, the head of at. 156 M) C^sdasgua lake, and down the Comiewan- ta into the Allegany, &c., they say;'^ it is a well known fact, that a principal part of the goods carried to the Western States bordering on the Ohio, is brought from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, at a sum not less than 160 dollars per ton, whereas they might be carried from New York by way of Hndson, Mohawk, Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Casdasgua, down the Alleghany to Pittsburg, for a sum less than 100 dollars ; and when the Grand Canal is complet^(|, for 30 dollars, saving to the owner 130 dol- lars per ton, and from Pittsburg tc St. Louis (the capital of the Missouri) for an ad- ditional sum of 20 dollars,'* &c. &c. At present the route by way of Hamilton is more frequented by emigrants. 157 CHAPTER V. Fort Erie — Birtie — Chippeway — Falls of Niagara — Waynes Township — Lundys- lane—Queenstonj ^c, July 6. Having satisfied our curiosity, we en- gaged a small boat, in which we sailed across the lake, and once irore planted our feet in the British dominions. On our entrance into an inn on the shore of the lake, we were surprized at the sigiit of several men brandishing cutlasses, Indi^ an knives, Ac. All was uproar. Upon our entrance the confusion ceased, and du* ring our stay with them, which was several hours, nothing but harmony and unanimity prevailed. From some captains of vessels belonging to Long Point, (a flourishingset- tlement about 100 miles up the lake on the 158 Canadian shore,) we received a pleasing and interesting account of the state of trade, Talue of lands, &c. Such reports should in any place, but more particularly in America^ be received with great caution ; but being corroborated by what we had learned froai other quarters, we had no reason to discre- dit thein. The land at Long Point has been invariably called good and fertile; as a proof of this, we are informed that not less than 18,000 bushels of rye were, last year, distilled upon Long Point in the compass of seven miles square. The Legislature have endeavoured to put a stop to the ma- nufactury of so many pernicious liquors at tills place, hut hitherto without much suc- cess. Land improved is valued considera- bly high. A farm of one hundred and fifty acres of land, with an orchard containing three hundred fruit trees, a dwelling-house, &c. npon it, might sell for about one thou- sand guineas. Produce sells high. Fort Erie, — The ruins of this place lie at the foot of the lake. Many brave men lost 159 lost their lives here at the termination of a dreadful conflict, in which the Americans were dislodged from this fort^ of which they had some little time before gained posses- sion. It was impossible to walk over this place without feeling those gloomy sensa- tions, which every one who looks upon man as his brother, must feel at such sights. How few of those men engaged in this com- bat knew what they were fighting about ! From Fort Erie we hired a light one- horse waggon to Forsyths, near the Falls of Niagara, which place, after a most de- lightful ride down the banks of that noble river, for about twenty miles, we reached the same evening. A few miles north of the ruins of the fort, we took a hasty survey of an estate which was offered for sale, the property of Mr. Powel, of Bertie. It consists of two hun- dred and seventy- three acres of good land, nearly one-half of which is cleared and under cultivation. There is a good dwell- ing-house and other appurtenances upon. •t...'^-.- liSvM'^ 160 tlie estate. The situation is peculiarly beautiful, being on the batiks of the Nia- gara river, from which it is only divided by a good turnpijve road. A thousand guinea^ would have purchased this tine estate. In our route we passed over the plains of Chippeway, reic' iki>Ic for a very bloody engagement fought Uioti them about the close of the lust war. Both sides had Indi- ans for allies. These men are by no means good auxiliaries in open fight, unless they are hemmed in so that they cannot run away ; but, being excellent marksmen; they excel in btish-fighting. When Kentucky was first settling, it is well known the Indi- ans murdered or shot at the intruders when- ever an opportunity offered. It once hap- pened that one of these settlers met an In- dian in the woods. Each had his rifle, arid ihey were both excellent marksmen^ Ac- tuated by rd and is something more than sixty rods in width. Proceeding towards the place of destina- tion, we passed the falls at a short distance. B'lt though the rapids and the awful sweep of the waters, with all the surrounding sce- nery, lay before our astonished eyes, the noblest spectacle, the fall itself, lay hid from mil < llT! i m 164 us. After stopping a few minutes, to snr- vey the scene before us, we pushed forwa rd and reached the end of our journey in safe* JiUy 7. — Early in the morning we set out from Forsyths, (a gctiteel inn, built upon the estate adjoining to the falls,) accompa- nied by a guide, to take a closer view of the cataract. The noise of the fails at the inn, was almost deafening. At a considerable distance from the ob* ject of our curiosity^ the spray, raised by the splashing of the waters, falls like a soft drizzling rain, which, forming itself into small rivulets, almost immediately returns down the precipice to the bed of the river. Urged onwards by the tremendous roar- ing of the falls, we advanced towards the brink of the table-rock. The scene appears all at once, and the sight is awful in the ex- treme. Although the mind is in some mea- sure prepared by the noise, for the prospect of something great and awful, and although J had previously endeavoured to raise my 165 imagination to correspond to the greatness of the scene now before me, — when from the brink of the trembling rock I cast my eye over the falling mass, the shock was electrifying. «* Rapid as the light The flatthiiig mass foams shaking the abyss ; And mounts in spray the skies, and thence again Returns in an unceasing shower, which round With its uuemptied cloud of gentle rain, Is an eternal April to the ground. How profound The gulf ! and how the giant element, From rock to rocki leaps with delirious bound ! Look back ! Lo ! where it comes like an eternity> As if to sweep all things in its track, Charming the eye with dread — a matchless cataract, Horridly beautiful I but on the verge From side to side, beneath a glittering morn. An Iri& sits, amidst the iiifernal surge, Like Hope upon a death-bed, and, unworn Its steady dyes, while all around is torn By the distracted waters, bears serene Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn ; Resembling, mid the torture of the scene, Love walchii'g Mudncss with unalterable meia. n i^ls ^ i' I ■ -i - ''f 166 We walked on the brink of ihe pre<:?ipice uiilil we arrived at the ladder, whifh is situ- ated about half a mile from the great fall. This we descended. I saw nothing in the descent so frightful as I hud been led by the exaggerated accounts of ;?ome travellers, to imagine I should find, 'i'his famous ladder does not reach down further than from twelve to fou/teen yardj?,— the remaining part of the way to the e'ge of the river is very steep and extremely rugged, being covered with fragments of the rock and matty underhrudi. This ladder is opposite the highest of the falls, called Fort Schloper fall, which is computed to be about 1050 feet in width, and about 160 feet in height. The friction of the waters has carried down from time to time considerable fragments of the rocks, which, formingaheap at the bottom «hove the surface of the water, accounts for the circumstance of more spray rising from I his place than from any other part of the fall. The next full, which is only about fifteen feet broad, is divided from the last' ri{'' ; 167 mentioned fall by a rock about thirty yards iti breadth. These are on the United States* side of Goat Island, between which places there is a communication, by means of a bridge, about 400 yards in length, across that brpnch of the river which forms the two last- mentioned falls. At the end of this bridge there is a pleasant little village call- ed Manchester. Goat Island, before described, adds greats ly to the gra jc-eur of this scene, it divides the falls before-nientioned from th€ Great Horse-shoe fall, on the Canadian side of the river. This fall has been reckoned from six to eight hundred yards in circuit. It will be readily snpposed from its name, that the rock does not run in a straight direciiou. But the appellation of Horse-shoe fall is no longer strictly applicable. At present it forms an acute angle, pointing up the> stream. The height of the fall has been variously reported, some calling it 140' others 150, and some 196 feet. « iiS 168 r; iilli if:' a li i 1 ^'4 « V' It is demonstrable, from the brca(lttt> depth, and velocity of tlie stream of this river, taken at the Black Rock, that npvvards of forty millions of tons of water are preci- pitated over the precipice every hour. Such is the force with which this immense sheet of water is driven over the rock, that a considerable space is left at the bottom, into which the resolute adventurer may pe- netrate a few steps with safety. As maybe imagined, the water for a con- siderable distance below the falls, appears to be considerably agitated ; notwithstand- this, we intended to have attempted to cross the stream towards the bottom of Fort Schloper fall, in a strong ferry-boat which is kept a little below, had not the timidity or the idleness of a pilot, whom we had en- gaged to meet us there for that purpose, prevented us. "^I'lie British side is by far the more favour- able for a view of this cataract Walking along (lie margin of the river, we had a 169 trottiplete view of each fall in rotation. Three-fourths of tlie fall ranges in a line parallel with the beach on which we were. Having spent a considerable time in ad- miring the majestic scenery of this great natural curiosity^ we clambered up the rocks to the top, without the help of a ladder. The experiment, whether this was practica- ble or not J was dangerous, and perhaps fool- ish. These cliffs exactly correspond to those on the opposite side, and have doubt- less at some period been united. It is sup- ])osed that the rock recedes up the stream about seven inches every year, or about eighteen feet every thirty years. This place abounds with noxious reptiles, which makes it dangerous to travellers in the warm season. We, however, saw none of any description. Although we had a journey of twenty- six miles to perform this day, on foot, un- der a July sun, in the latitude of 43, we con- tinued lingering on the brink of the cliff, anxiously seeking for other places for ob- 4 |i)a' If i . i llkl 1 170 «i*rvHtloBj both above and below the falU; and act till the eye was quite jaded, did we turn our steps and proceed towards Waynes Township. Such is the cataract of Niaga- ra. " These are thy glorious works, Parent of Good, i\lmighty, thine this universal frame, " Thus wondious ; — thyself bow wondrous then ! Unspeakable, who sitt'st above these heavens, To us invisible, or dimly seen In these thy lowest works.*' The Chippeway is a dull sluggish creek, very deep, and apparently stagnant. Its borders are marshy. We left Chippeway, and proceeded through the woods, which ab n d with wild animals, on foot, scarcely knowing what way to direct our steps ; the road being on- ly marked out in some places by notches in the trees. The various kinds of serpents that we met with served to amuse us. We b id as yet seen few of tlie serpent tribe in America, h\t here we were abundantly gra- tified ill this respect, in jumping over a 171 pool of water, I liad nearly set my foot upon the first we saw. We met with few settlements in our way, and those lints we did find were mostly of the lowest order of architecture. We in- variably, except in one instance, called at these places, in order to make observations upon the manners and appearance of the inhabitants. The day being- most excessively hot, and the road intricate and dangerous, we en- gaged a guide, who, with two horses, under- took to convey us to the ^^ forks of Chippe- way," a distance of about sixteen miles. A waggon was soon made, and our guide, who was a very interesting young man, conduct- ed us through a country which had nothing very pleasing in its appearance ; the soil being in general not deep, the crops light, and the climate unhealthy. There is a large marsh which lays a few miles west of this tract, which must have some effect upon the climate. Besides this, the banks of the creek are inarsbv and low, and, what is if M 172 ';■ m it perhaps worse, the water wiiich is used by the settlers on its bank?, is not good. Hence the frequency of agues, &c. Our road was frequently so bad, that in England it would have been considered im- passable. But we were drawn by American horses gaided by an American driver. Our charioteer conducted us over all these places in safety, and even wlien trees, blown down by the wind or by the ravages of time, lay aci'ossour road, we wentdirectly over them. Marvellous shocks did we often receive wlien going over these, or ovr^r the stumps of others which had been carelessly felled. AVe were often obliged to stop to mend our vehicle, which was frequently disjointed by the roughness of tiiis road. The docility and activity of these horses is very remark- able. Upoh one occasioi^, the road seemed comple*^:ly blocked up by several trees, which lay entMe;y across the road, from side to side. Tiicre was no alternative, and we drove over them. And it was worth en- during all the shocks, to see these animak 1 stop over trees nearly breast high without any hesitation or even making a plunge or a false step. We had an engageinent with a large snake of a beautifully variegated co- Jonr, called the milk-snake. This reptile is frequently found an unwelcome intruder in- to the houses and dairies of the lonely sett- lers, hence its name is derived. Its tail, which is extremely hard and sharp, is its chief instrument of defence. A wound from this is troublesome, but not mortal. A little before sun-set we were set down at the entrance of a wood, it being impossi- ble for our vehicle to penetrate any further. With but a feeble hope of reaching any place of shelter that night, we entered the gloomy forest, and, guided by the notches only, proceeded on a very circuitous path for some miles. There are many bears and wolves in this forest, with abundance of deer; but we proceeded unmt)lested, save by the mosquetoes, which swarmed in count- less myriads. A* length, by accident, or rather by the providence of Almighty God, B •1- ■ -I '.I !.■ ir 174 when the shades of evenino* were closins: fVist around us and we could scarcely see our track, we met with the sou of the man we were in search of Our friend, Thomas Priestman, formerly of Westmorland^ is the owner of ahout four hundred acres in these woods. Of -this quantity he has cleared a few fields. The quality of the soil is tole- rably good, and the crops heavy. This es- tate was a grant from Government, and might eost in the shape of fees of office, about £20 sterling. Upon Mr. Priestman's farm we ol)served growing, hemp, pepper, tobacco, &c. His neif:;'hbour, Mr. George Robinson, owns two hundred acres, which cost him forty-five dollars, or about one shilling per acre. Since these a:rants were made to the above-menlioned and other settlers, land has risen in value, and now sells in this neighbourhood, in its wild state, at from 4 to 20s, per acre. 175 Government is still holding oiit'consitler-' able advanlagv^ to settlers in the Upper Pro- vince. A tract of a hundred acres is <»iven to the bead of each family of emigrants, and half that quantity to each of his progeny, upon certain conditions; the principal one being an obligation to cultivate a certain, though a very small proportion of the grant, in a limited period. The design of this re- gulation is too obvious to need explanation. Upon application to Gilbert Robinson, Esq., acting Vice-Consul at Philadelphia, and to James Buchanan, Esq., Consul for the State anil City of New York, we learned that the present grants were chiefly upon the Credit river, near the head of lake Ontario. The latter gentleman, who is the chief agent in this place, has made arrange- ments with the masters of vessels, &c., so that the poor emigrant may be transported from New York to Upper Canada for a tri- fling expence. Many privileges are offer- ed, which, to those who have expended their capital iu the voyage, are of great impor- I 11/ ' I i7r> ii. tance, and arc often eagerly acccpfod. A «;'reat proportion of the settlers in Upper Canada are Scotch and Irisli. The indus- trious emigrant may, without extraordinary exertions, realize a sulTiciency for the pay- ment of tlie fees for the conveyance of the property from the Crown to liim, in one season. I'he land is then his own. He is a freeman in every sense of the word A reservation is made for the clergy, for every grant made* as above. IMius, if a settler receives one hundred acres from the Governor, fourteen and two-sevenths acres, or one-seventh of the quantity, is set out for the maintenance of the ministry. It is con- trived that all these clerical grants in cer- tain districts, shall be laid together, and not scattered all through the country, like the monastic gifts of former days in Great Bri- tain. Wlien the lands thus set apart for any township are considerable, a clergyman is procured ; if it is not of sufficient value, the settlers must remain vy^ithout one. in \w average crop of wlieat is estimated at twenty bushels Winchester per acre — • the average price a dollar. So that a crop of wlieat is worth £4: lOs. per acre, being j^>boutthe snnii which, including the expcuce of the labour of felling the timber, fencing, sowing, &c., every acre would cost him. Thus the first crop will pay for the p\ir- chase, and every other expence incurred in bringing the land into aproper state of cul- tivation. The next year his crop will cost the settler the interest of the purchase-mo- ney, or something less than one penny per •acre, — a tax of a |K^nny per acre upon all cleared land, and some other small tax^S, together with the value of the seed and la- hour, wear and tear^ &c. One active nmn may cut down thetirtb^r from, and plant or sow ten acres in one sea- son. This, to a man unaccustomed to it, would be no easy und^rtakini^, as the tim- ber stands very thick upon good soils. The aX€fe used for this purpose are heavy, and being tnade irt the form of a wedge^ rieter IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /y ^ >. ^ i;5 M^ 1.0 1.1 Ui|21 121 ■SO ^^ III^H lit 1^ u Hi :s u° 12.0 IZ2 IJJ. 1 L25 llju 1.6 < 6" - ► V] / Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. I4SS0 (716) •72-4503 ■^^^' '^ ^<^% 178 stick fast in the wood. With these instrir- meuts it is surprizing to see how soon a man^ or even a boy accustomed to chopping, will fell a large tree. Our friend G. R. cut down before us a beech tree, which would girt about four feet, in about three minutes, and another, somewhat less, in two minutes. The white oak, which often rises with a clear trunk fifteen feet in circumference to a prodigious height, and the sugar maple, which always flourishes in a bracing climate, abound here. The Fa gus Silvestris (heech), and the stately hickory, are very plentiful. Cattle, in this new country, generally support themselves by browsing in the woods. In the winter season trees are fell- ed daily, unless the snow is very deep, upon 1i:e tops of which the animals feed. They have bells upon their necks, which ringing incessantly, give notice to the respective owners in what part of the wood their cattle are in. Every settler knows the sound of his own bells. Some small flocks of sheep are kept here, but from the number of wild eve I for hea for in fere 179 tes. beasts in the forest they are not numerous. They are invariably inclosed in folds or pens during the night. Their taxes are light. Here, as in almost every part of America, the labour required for mending and making the roads, is the heaviest tax. A certain yearly sum is paid for a milch cow, an ox, a steer, a horse, &c. in proportion to their usefulness. By re- ference to an assessment roll, I find that a farmer who possesses 237 acres, and has of this quantity thirty-eight under cultivaticn, pays in taxes about 10s. 8|(Z. per annum : s. For his 199 acres of uncultivated land ... 3 38. acres of cultivated do. 3 Sundries * - 4 3 10 8| The first sum is a yearly tax of twenty- pence per hundred acres of wild land. — 180 ^b,e secoifvd sum is the diUy of one penny j^r acre upoii cleared dQ. — TUe third fop cattle, &c. &c. The dwelliags are mostly lag huts. — When, the emigrant tukes possession of his lot, be selects a pUce iojc his dwelling, aiHl ^er^ be ^vst puts hi:^ a\e iuto exercise. The falling of tUe tirst tree (LcteFmines the po«.i- tio,n of the liAoise. This forms s^ fourvdation, and thesuiperstructnre is soon raised. Per- )^p» he is. obliged to substitute oiled papef in the room of glass. His doors E^ioye upon wooden hinges. Locks be has none. In building his barn, he is often assisted by his neighbours (if he has any near at hand). These are made of round K)<»:s of a uniform tMckness (generally about afoot), reaching the whole length of the building. They are notched at the corners and where par- titions are made across the building. When the sides are completed, holes are cut for the doors. The roof iscove'ed with boards or oUier materials, and thus tha building is coiwgl^te^, la this dislrigt, ihi^ opetatign. of tbraj ihi ox thati by the COUilj dipv )8I tbrasbing h performed by oxen. Tiie Uirasbin^ floor is generally \i\ f he open fields "^riiOBe iivho understand tlie mea^iing of that humane precept '' ihoti shaH not muzzle the ox that treatleth ont ll>e corn/' will know that the grain istrampletl o»t of the sheaves by these animals going round and round the fioof. This i:^ easily d^ixie in these coautrie%, where the weather is so fiine and drv i-n the sninmep season. In- traversing the woods we found some Indiian. wigwams, made of the bark of trees. In their kunting excursions thelndians some- ti^nes call upon thesettI€rs^ Theyhavetl*e charau^wr of being iii'Variably civil.* In these excursions, the eye was occa-* si^inally retieved by the sight of some lone- i * One of these In<3ian8.caIIed one day upon our friend G. R., req^iiesting the loan of his dog to assist him in catching a deer which he had wounded. Although a perfect stran^r, he was entrusted with the animaL He found and caught the object of hia search — returned with the dog-^-and rewarded the owner with a part of the prize. i 1 i 182 ly cottage, wiih a few acres of cleared land surrounding it. As these are all of a recent date, we had little opportunity of making many observations on the health of the inmates. In new countries it often hap- pens that the richer the soil, if woodland, the more unhealthy the situation. Amongst these lonely settlers we found, what we scarcely expected to meet with here, a considerable share of general know- ledge. Even in this very remote part of the civilized world, however low his relative situation in life may be, the peasant speaks as correctly and as free from em harassment, as the citizen in the midst of polished soci- ety. There is somethins: m the interior, as well as in the outside appearance of a log cabin, which is any thing but pleasant ; but when tlie whole situation of the inmates is consi- dered, it may, in many respects, appear en- viable. An intruder is often found in state- ly domes, which is almost entirely unknown here, viz. fear of want. How many plea- J' 183 sures are embittered in the enjoyment by the ghastly appearance of this demon ! There is here almost a total want of schools and places of public worship ; the time is probably fast approaching when these will become more plentiful. To (hose who value these privileges properly, this consideration would be a powerful antidote against settling in this, as well as in any other new colony; — for they all partake more o. less of the general character which has been drawn here. As particular statements tend to produce more correct ideas, I will just observe, in addition to what has been said concerning the price of land, that we had the choice of three farms offered in the most populous part of this township, on the banks of the Chippeway, about seventeen miles above its junction with the Niagara. The first con- sisting of one hundred acres, partially clear- ed, with a log hut upon it, for £112 sterling. Another, consisting of 120 acres, for the same rate, namely five dollars per acre. 184 A thlnl, which ia an old scfllcment, ami occupied by the owner, consisiing of 150 acres, (two- thirds of which has lortg been cleared,) a good larg^e framed dwelling- house, an orchard, containing 300 fruit trees and thirteen bee-hives, for t!»ree thou- sand dollars, or £675 sterling. The high road rutis throns^h the middle of the last- mentioned estate. Though the crops upon these lands are of an average quality, yet the soil is by no means good. Much of the soil in this tract appears to have been formed from decayed vegetables, the leaves of trees, &e. July 12. — Escorted by the owner of the estates above-mentioned. Captain Shubettl ]Parke, wc proceeded to Queenston, ovei* some of tlie woi^t knd I have yet seen. In our route we crossed the fields of Landis- lane, remarkable for a very bloody engage- ment with the Americans. The place where the pile was raised into wl\ich tlm bodies of the dead were thrown, is the mwst verdant j^pot in the wliole pkiitt. mmmm 183 Q(ft:SffSToif.'^Th6wg\i a place of c5n« siderttble riote, thi^ k by no ftiefltid a WgS town. Probably the number of inbabitirttrf does not exceed three hundred. Pi^oiihiii H^ situation it must be a plate df tdm^AetiihU note. The brave GeiTerjtl Br^^k feft iirt af bloody eirgagenient fouglit here. C?#)ptain Pjii*ke obHgi.igly pointed out to us thi^ whole plan' of the fight. Every attadk in* jfetr6at was detailed tons, while st^hdy^; fetV libe very spot of action. The AiWefifcartiJj' Werfe defeated and driven over the fiver to' Lewi^toit, oii the opposite' slior^, whi^h i^'jt^' burnt by their pursuers. War iVat b^st a disAial picture — a disgraice to Ohristiatiity^;^^ a promoter of famine, slaughter, rapine afnS fiis^ry. When a soldier fells, hk fenfiiiy have lost a parent, a husband, a brothei*, oif A sbfi. The river Niagara is not abov6 haitf a H*Me wide here, but runs extremely rapid; It h*s cut ic*^ way through the rock's, y^YtiSSt rise (oil great height ofi each side. Pro*iiif ^ appeam^c^ of the^e cliffs, tli^ dtippb^*- 2 A )86 tiofi that the great falls have at some period feeen as low as Qiiecnsslon, is warranted. Fort St. George and Fort Niagara are silu- f^ted a few miles below the ferry at the head pf the Lake Ontario, of which we had a fine view from the heights of Qneenstoii. , Perhaps it may be thought worthy of re- mark, that this day I observed at hay the only female which I have seen at work in the fields since I landed in America. This- old woman was a Scotch emigrant, who had brought her habits of industry along with l>eir. But that her intellectual, were not quite so vigorous as her bodily powers, I concluded from the circumsta^vce of her gravely telling me that she ** feared Ameri- ca and England were going to war, because she had secaa coinet the ni«»ht before "!! There are various colonies or settlements in that division of Upper Canada, compre- hended between the Lakes Ontario, Erie, f^nd Huron, particularly upon the Thames river and the territory of the six nations. We met with an English settler from the la»l-ni to Va\ coura) «eem< my kl the i\idiM carta theo here. as ca brou loss < meui V is of and Stat ful. veri Mr fav ful m m |tf(L |i(u- iue kist-inenlioned country, who was on his way to En which stands upoQ a level plftin^ elevated a consiclerable height above 4fe bed of the river^ is a very neat lookipgy and tolerably large town. Although burnt in 1814 by the British^ it has been rebuilt, %Q,d is perhaps^ as large and as populous as it was before the conflagration. Like all th^ towns on the borders, this is a place of gr^at resort for smugglers. Flour is now selling at eight dollars pei^ bftirrel, oi: 3^. Td per stone. At Qu^enston it is two-pence per stone lower. Land, as Iflity nftturally be. expected in such a situa* ^ioq, 9^1U abt a g«od p? iee^^from £h to Jg 10 190 B\i acre. The hay harvest is now at its height. July 13. — Having engaged a beautiful light waggon to Canandaigua^ we set off this morning. These are beautiful vehicles, and although wonderfully light, they are, from the toughness and strength of the >vood and, the superior nature of the work- manship, calculated to endure great hard- ships. Tiie word waggon will serve to give but a very imperfect idea of the lightness, beauty and symmetry, of s^me of these car- riages. We had two excellent horses, (one before the other). We paid £2 10s. each for our fare. At a short distance east of Lewiston, we passed a fine Indian settlement. The land here is peculiarly rich, and the face of the country rolling. The proprietors are so- ciable and industrious. They have a church built by the road side, and a regular minis- ter. Our present route lay along the southern bbore of Lake Ontario^ at a short distance^ 191 seldom more than sixoreii»lit miles, from it This is, gener 'ly speakin«j, a new counfrv, and ordy occupied near the great roads^ Fruit, particularly apples and peaches, a- bound here, — almost every estate having a large orchard. From their proximity to die lake and the Grand Canal, ihe carriage of their goods to market is attended with no great incon\enience. Settlers are pouring in on every quarter, — towns and villages are rising and flourishing, and every thing, save the wan countenance of the labouring peasant, indicates ease and prosperity. New settlers, as before observed, on rich soils, are subject to the attack of various diseases. Agues and bilious fevers most generally prevail. It must be allowed that the liabi- lity to these fittacks is increased or lessened by local situation, habits of living, &c. Change of climate, where this consists only in a change of temperature, has seldom a very powerful influence on a healthy con- stitution. But when to this change we add excessive fatigup, uncomfortable houses, (iu- m sUffieieilt perhaps t<> ghfe^t^i* tlietil fioHn tfitf chilly datripi of the night,) inferiof di^t, Ac. i^ v^bicli irtconveniendes rtew Settlers 6f th6f poorer sort are often exposed, it Mrill not rtf>pear strange that tttany h^tcsuflTeret! ; on the Gontrairy, takiwg into account the quah- tify of sfyihtoous Hqiiors which too ihtlily imprudently cortiamcy our ^tfrprize is rather eftclted thait «oi f^# tf re di^nsed. 1 wonid not here wi^h to iritittiate that' this eonrttfy te peCidterly nnhealthy. Few dfseases cirt be' lard W thd account of the cha*)ge of climate, unless in particular instances where the change has been very grea*. Toi local siluaftion they a^e mostly attrtbtitable, WltSt Ms that man a ri«»ihi tb expect, who, in a low flirt c'6uritry, pei>6-' t rates hi to; the mid^t of a wobd, and thet^' settlings is n(it alyfe' td cl^lElr more tlian tv^o- hundred sqniire yard* fil twb yeafs ? Tho^e wh^e settlements ar6 adjbiniiig the road, Iwftefinany advantageisOft^ei* tlife isolated IM-^' ing ahote descTrb^d; wl*<^€ Visible hOrJiiJ^i^ extend'!* ftot beyOJft# tto bOifiiite <^f biij 6Sm 19^ the rot' loii' 1/ instate. These advantages seem to be duly appreciated here, most of them being, as before observed, contiguous to the public road. We passed through the eleven mile woods. Although our horses were very tractable, and pur driver remarkably clever, we were frequently in danger of being overturned. The lightness of our vehicle was here of essential service to us, as by the motion of our bodies we were enabled, I may venture to say hundreds of times, to restore it to its proper position, when without this, it must in- evitably have been overturned by some of the numberless stumps which it was impossible altogether to avoid. An English top-laden heavy coach would have cut a very poor fi- gure here. The wood here is indicative of the supe- rior quality of the soil. Oak, hickory, ma- ple, and the cucumber- tree, are most abun- dant. The government has refused thirty- five dollars per acre for this tract in its natural state. 3 b 194 Oak Orchard — about forty miles east of Lewiston, is a thriving village, but nei- ther remarkable for tlie healthiiiess of its situation, nor the goodness of the soil in its» vicinity. From this place to Sandy Creek, Murray's Township, the distance is fifteen miles, through a very fine country ; — rye ripe, — wheat nearly so, — Indian corn, the best we have seen, just beginning to flower. All the land in the vicinity of the road is settled and occupied, though it is evident it has been very recently taken possession of. In addition to the log houses which the settler has patched up for temporary use, neat, though seldom elegant-looking, frame- buildings, are rising in all directions. Sandy Creek. — We reached tliis place, fifty-six n^iles east of Lewiston, early in the evening of the first day. This village, which contains two or three good taverns and several frame-houses, is only three years old, but being situated in the midst of a very rich tract of land, it is enlarging rapidly. It is only two miles 195 distant from the great Canal^ and eight from Lake Ontario. It has also another excellency — it stands near a mill stream. As a proof of the value of this last-mention- ed privilege, I need only observe, that we crossed but one running stream this day. These are sufficiently plentiful in the winter season, but are dried up by the parching and long continued droughts of the Ameri- can summers* Although Sandy Creek is considered t6 be peculiarly exposed to agues and bilious fevers, yet the flux of emigrants towards it is very rapid. Land, in its natural state, sells in the neighbourhood for from twenty to thirty shillings per acre ; where the trees are cut down, fences made, and framed- buildings erected, the price is from ten to twelve pounds^. From the quantity of neW comers, it will be readily coneludod, that the price of grain will not be very low. The average price of wheat exceeds a dol- lar per Winchester bushel. Corn from 70 ta 100 cents^ &c. &c. 196 ] ■•I !1 Rye harvest commencing^. Jidy 14. — At 4^ A. W. we again mount- ed our vehicle^ and pursued our eastern course. Seven miles east of Sandy Creek we found another flourishing colony, called (for want of a better name) Murray's Pour Cor- ners, situated at the junction of four roads, in Murray's Township. These new settle- ments generally take their name from some local circumstance, as in this instance ; which title they generally retain, until their rising importance makes it necessary for them to claim the privilege of villages, when they assume different names. Here all the front lots adjoining each of the roads, are occupied. The canal is only one mile distant, and the Lake Ontario nine. Farms partly improved, with buildings, may be bought for about £6 per acre. The land is of the first-rate quality, and bears abundant crops. The orchards, more particularly the peach orchards, are very large^ and in a few years great quantitie« 197 of cydef and perry will be made for ex- portation. Rochester. — This is a large thriving town, consisting of several well-built streets. It is situated seven miles from the lake, up- on the Genessee river, and is the depot of the merchandise of all the circumjacent back country. The navigation of the stream is interrupted by the celebrated falls, which area little below the town. There are se- Teral water mills in the town, of different descriptions, upon one of which, a grist mill, I observed (what indeed is no uncom- mon sight here) the words '^cash for wheat or corn," in letters nearly a yard long. The land in the neighbourhood is of inferior qua- lity, and poorly cultivated. Prom the num- ber of store -houses, warehouses, &c., I con- clude that Rochester is no inconsiderable place. At about two miles distance from Roches- ter, we enjoyed a vie v/ of one of the most beau- tiful scenes in nature. The Genessee river» after rolling through a wide extent of fertile 198 counti^, ^s it approaches the lake becomes turbid Hnd rapid ; its banks deepen « and suddenly it plunges down a precipice of ninety-six feet. From this cataract it has ploug'lied its channel to an enormous depth, through at least four difTerent strata of solid rock. About two miles onward, it takes a sort of preparatory leap of about twenty feet, and immediately after dashes down seventy feet into a frightful chasm. Hei'e, on the eastern bank, stands the beautiful village Carthage. This place, in Ontario county, is connected to Genessee county by a bridge, which crosses the gulf just men- tioned a Uttle below the fall ; and which is in itself, perhaps, one of the greatest artifi- cial curiosities in the world. As the pas- senger stands upon it, and casts his eye a- Tound him, he is forcibly reminded of Mil- ton's celebrated causeway, athwart the re^ gions of nig'ht and chaos. He beholds an «reh three hundred and fifty feet chord, jkjpanning the everlasting chasm, and resting it$ extremities on abutments of solid rock^ 19^ whidi rise with a front nearly perpendicu- lar to ar» awful lieiglit. The height of the arch is 210 feet. Total length of the bridge 718 do. Span of the arch - - - 352 do. The bridge is perfectly level. From the centre we had a delightful view of the falls above. From Rochester eastwardly, the soil for about twenty nriiles on our route, is of a sandy nature. The crops are very poor. Oats are now selling for 9s. currency per bushel, Winchester, equal to 40s. 6d. ster- ling per quarter. Rye harvest general. A considerable part of our way from Lewiston to Canandaigualay on 'Mhe ridge road.'' This ridge is a great curiosity, to account for the formation of which has puz- zled many philosophers. It is about 150 miles in length, and is elevated from four to sixteen feet above the adjoining lands. Its average width is about thirty yards ; at some places being only five or six, in others a Jiundred yards in width. ) K 200 • From the materials of Which this tldg^ U composed^ i .;:monstrable that it is not of primitive formation. Although it runs nearly parallel to the shores of the lake^ it may not have been formed^ as has been ima- gined, by the waves thereof, — because fine earth mixed with sand and gravel, which in some places are found to compose this ridge^ is seldom seen in banks formed by conflict- ing waves. In some places it is formed of fine sand ; in others of fine loam inter- mixed with gravel. Many conjectures have been formed as to the origin of this and si- milar ridges, to each of which a variety of objections might be brought. One thing is evident, — that they owe their origin to some great natural commotion. . The ascent at the north side is generally steep ; and the greatest height of the ridge is near that extremity ; while the descent towards the south is long and gradual. We reached Cansmdaigua about 7 P. M. having travelled, with ease and pleasure^ from Lewiston, on the banks of the Niagara ^* 201 river, a distance of 110 miles, in thirty-six hours, with the same two horses. July 15. — This morning, in a ramble in- to the country, we were entertained with the sight of four Americans mowing grass. The blades of their scythes are very shorty as also the shaft, which is twisted almost in- to the form of an S. The mowers follow each other roundihe field, and each man has his own stroke. They appear to be poor workmen. They generally, both in mow- itig and ploughing, begin at the outside, and in going round and round, end in the middle of the field. The soil appears to be of a strong marly nature. Although the agriculture is in the poorest style, the crops are above medio* crity. Whilst waiting for dinner at Geneva, we reviewed a company of militia, who had assembled for training in the square. The riflemen were clothed in green ; — the rest of the men were dressed as fancy or ability dictated. » 3 c -V. ao2 • Union Springs. — This village, ^itdafe^ upon the banks of the Cayuga lake, six miles east of the great bridge, has derived its name from two fountains, about 300 yards apart, with streams sufficient for mills.' It contains from twenty to thirty houses. The importance of these springs, attd their usefulness to the surrounding cotmtry, may be estimated from the fact, that there is erected on the smaller spring, a fulling miil^ which dresses in one season about 15,000 yards of cloth ; — carding machines, which wrought into rolls, last summer, 18,000 lbs. of wool; — and a saw mill, (assisted in its operation by a small brook turned into the basin of the spring,) which in the same season sawed 60,000 feet of boards and scantling. Upon the larger spring is erected a grist mill, 30 by 34 feet, — three and a half sto- ries, with two run of stones, &c. It is stated to be capable of grinding 200 bush- els of grain per twenty- four hours. These streams never suffer any injury from drowths or frosts. 203 frTo give some idea of the commerce of this lake, I subjoin a statement furnished by Mr. Williams, of this place. " In the last six years there have been launched on Cayuga lake seven schooners, carrying from fifty to eighty-five tons each. Five of the largest have descended Seneca river to Lake Ontario. There are now on the lake about thirty vessels and boats^ carrying from eighteen to fifty tons. '^ Boats are generally employed in trans- porting flour, pork, pot-ashes, &c., to She- nectady and Osv^^ega falls. Their return loads are merchandise from the former place, or salt from Onondaga. " Schooners are employed in freighting plaster from the quarries to the head of the lake ; from w^hence they bring large quan- tities of pine lumber (timber). In one sea- 6on there has been received at Ithica, and at Port L' Orient at the head of the lake, 9,000 tons of plaster, and 4,500 barrels of «alt ; the greater part of which was trans- ported by land to Owego (about twenty- !i i 204 nine miles south-east of Ithica), and fVom thence in arks down the Susqiiehannah. " The extensive quarries of plaster along the shores of this lake in Aurelius, the salt springs along its outlet, the fbrests of valu-: able pine about its inlets, the fertility of the soil in its vicinity, the salubrity of its situa- tion, and, ahove all, its proximity to the Susquehannah river, have already made its v^raters the medium of a profitable trade ; and the encreased facility of communication with the North river, when the Grand Ca- nal shall be completed, will uudoubtedly make it a still more important link in the chain of trade/* I have been the more particular in my enquiries and remarks with respect to the situation of favourite places, in a commer- cial point of view, from a consciousness that in America, perhaps above all other coun- tries, the eligibility of any situation depends in a great measure upon the facilities which it may be found to possess, for the convey- ^nqe of goods and merchandise, — whea. com- 205 bined with other advantages, as fertility of soil, &c. When the permanency of local advantages can be secured by a free inter-* course with distant places, by means of na-* vigation, the situation has an infinite advan< tage over those settlements where the con* trary is the case. The land between East Caywga and Uni- on Springs is of superior quality, and the crops (particularly of wheat and timothy) extremely heavy. We could hear of no farms for sale, but the general price may be estimated at about £7 sterling per acre, buildings included. July 16.^- We pursued ourjourney through a beautiful country, by way of Levana, a small village, pleasantly situated on the banks of the lake, but retarded in its im^ provement by the growth of its neighbour, Aurora. At the last-nfientioned place we made a luscious breakfast upon milk — a be- verage which we could never purchase when travelling as gentlemen, but which, as hnm-* 1 ; ii i i III I I I 206 He pedestrians, we could easily procure to the extent of our wishes. We found that since the 2nd inst, (when we left this township) a considerable change had taken place in the progress of vegeta- tion. Pumpkins, which then had scarcely begun to shoot, now extended several yards. Some of the fields of corn were in full flower. This corn, which is planted from the lOlh to the 25th of May, is reaped in October. Our friend Mr. K/s crop, this year, is estimated to average sixty bushek |>er acre, independent of twenty or thirty cart-loads of pumpkins from every acre. This day we had an offer of a beautiful estate of one hundred acres, with a good 'dwelling-house, orchard, &c., for about £700 sterling, The only farm which we have as yet heard of as being let for a yearly rent, was let here lately for about 16s. per acre. When this is compared with the price of •iaud, the rent may appear extravagantly 20T high ; but when we take the real value of money in this country into consideration, our surprize will cease. So scarce is this useful article at present, that fourteen per cent, is a common rate of interest ; and \ am assured by an acquaintance, that he has occasionally received even fifty per cent, per annum. Although the rate of usury is fixed by the government, the law is so slack that means of evading it are found without: difficulty. The banks, I believe, generally allow six per cent. Those who contem- plate an emigration to this country, will do well to take this into their accounts of pro. and con., as their circumstartces in this re- spect may happen to be. ' Turnips (Ruta Baga) are getting into partial use in this neighbourhood, — chiefly through the exertions of Mr. Cobbett. Timothy, as has been before observed, flourishes greatly in the Western coimtry. It grows here in amazing thickness to the height of four feet. The pastures look 208 1 1 I i m Well, and this grass is celebrated for its rlti-*" tricious quality. Mr. Kellet owns a pasture of ninety-eight acres, which has never had a plough put into it. Whilst we were surveying this fine tract of land, a person appeared with a bag of salt, which it is the practice of graziers to give to their cattle about once a week^ Immediately the whole drove was in an up* roar, scampering and bellowing as if they were all run mad. As the man approached us, I really apprehended some danger, from what appeared to be their rage, but which ji ill reality, was only a demonstration of their joy. The salt being laid down in haudfuls, was^most voraciously devoured by the osieri. Such was their greediness for it, that they licked up the soil to the very roots of the grass, as long as a taste of salt could be found* The farmers find it necessary to throw" «ali upon the hay when it is put up in mowsy fitacks, &c , strewing a quantity between every layer. 2G9F nn^ \ishi This hay, which is iiitendeil for the win- terage of their cattle, is for the most part set up in solitary stacks in different fields. Around these, rails are put so close that the cattle can only harely pull the hay through them. By this means they are also prevent- ed from wasting- the fodder. Though the winters are severe, yet the cattle (milch cows excepted) are seldom housed. They have access to the farm yard, sheds, &c. hut are suffered to run at liberty. In f> v swer to our objections to this plan, that much manure would be lost, we were de- sired to consider that we were not in Enff- land, where a great quantity was indis- pensably nee 3ssary to the landholder. Here a smali quantity suffices. Cattle which are bought in the Genes- see at a comparatively low rate, are fed here, and driven to the Eastern markets. In driving to New York via Newburg, a distance of 250 miles, the expence is three dollars per head in the winter, and half that price in the summer season. 2 D 2ity Ml! Some orchards here are of a considerable' size — from six to twelve acres. It is not unfreqiient for farmers to have 300 bushel» of apples in one season^ from which greats quantities of cyder are made. ini IS 211 CHAPTER VII. Indian Fields-Ithica — Oswega—Binghamp* ton or Chenango Point — English Settle^ ment — Mount Pleasant — Bethel — Monti' cello — Mamakaling — Bloomingburg"^ Montgomery — Newhurg, S^c, July 26. W^E took oar departure, from this highly interesting place (Scipio)— our course south, towards Ithica, in the township of Ulysses, nt the head of Lake Cayuga. This tract is tolerably well settled, and (much of the timber being cleared away) is considered very healthy. The face of the country is extremely uneven ; — so much so, as to render, in many places, the opera- tions of the agriculturist extremely labo- I'ious. The soil in Genoa, Salmon creek, ^nd Indian fields, is good and fertile. To- 212 51 wards Ludlow-ville the quality is not above raediocrity, — often dry^ light and sandy. LuDLoW'ViLLE — stauds in a low valley, down which the Saiinon creek, a small but rapid stream, pursues its devious way. The gloomy pine hills, rising to a great height oh every side, and the falls of the creek at the entrance of the town, give it a roman- tic appearance. This being the depot of a wellTsettlfid country, there is an appearuhce of much trade. Near this place we were shown a farm lately bought for five dollars per acre, which now bears upon it grain worth thirty dollars per acre. A tremendous thunder storm commenced whilst we rested here, accompanied by a ^eluge of rain, which rendered the roads to Ithica rather unpleasant for travelling. The roads here are bad. The soil of Ithica is generally poor, and covered with shrubby oak and pine. Towards the head of the lake, the road parses close under a water- fall about sixty feet in height. This river 213 above 'y- valley, H but The Jbeight ?ek at >inan- »t of a rur^ce farm acre, (hiHy Hiced by a ids (o ling, thica lb by Ihe iter- iver bas been diverted out of its course, and made to run down a steep gravelly hill, drivin> timbered land, the original purchase- money' is a small item in the expence or cost of tbel «9itttle. Stock, it i$ true, will cost materiallyi k^iibsm in En^and^ butlaboiir is hi£ph> and) 3 226 a reserve ought always, if possible, to ber ready for any exigency. In prairies, the expence of breaking up will be considera- bly less. But here, it may be observed^ though there may be little or no expence for felling timber, yet the expence of build- ing and the price of every kind of labour^ is greater than in the former case. It will not be denied that the Americans are the most enterprising people in the world. Possessing an ardent thirst for re- nown, and a restless desire of acquiring great attainments by new and untried means,— they are perpetually making new efforts and new experiments. Hence they are conti- nually making fresh treaties with the Abori- gines; — pushing forwards into countries hitherto unsettled or unoccupied, except by the Indians ; — planning and making canals, &c. &c. Acting undei* the influence of this enterprizing spirit, they have been from time to time making such improve- ments in the art of ship-building, and par-* ticularly of steam-vessels^ that for symmetry^ 227 and beauty, tliey are equalled by few ; and for swiftness of sailini^, by no vessels what- ever.* Near the line of boundary between the States of New York and Pennsylvania, we crossed the Susquehannah, over a wooden bi'id<^e of eight arches, or rather a bridge supported by as many pillars. This bridge stands at least twenty feet higher than the surface of the water at this time, and yet it is no uncommon thing in the freshets of the river for the whole to be completety inun- dated. <* Innumerable streams Tumultuous roar ; and far above its banks The river lift.*' * It will scarcely" be credited, tliat there are now employed and running upon the Mississipi and the Ohio, steam-boats, which in the aggregate will carry near fif- teen thousand tons burden, Wlien we take into this account those which run upon the great Northern lakes, the Long Island Sound, the Hudson, New York Bay, the Delaware, the Chesapeake, and southward and west- ward to New Orleans, it must excite our astonishment at the amazing powers of enterprize and talent maui- fested by these people* - . ' »*■ ns The Siisquehannah county is, generally speaking,* very uueyen, hilly, stony, rongli, beechy tract of land, and but partinlly sett* li^d. Its chief reconimendation is iti!> being well adapted by the nature of the soil, which ^ems favourable for the growth of grasss, for breeding cattle for the New York and PhiladelphSan nnarkets :-^but the face of the country is terrifying to an Englishman. A company of Englishmen at New York have purchased a considerable tract of land from a Mr. Rose, situated near the Silver Lake, Montrose. This thev offer to re-sell to their countrymen upon very moderate terms. They have bought it (say they) not from any speculation for gain, but solely through a desire of doing something beneficial for their brother emigrants, who are too apt, in straying over the country in search of some eiysium, to squander away that which might be of essential ser* vice when applied to a better purpose, la order to do this effectually, some men were appointed to search through the country fav 329 a situation suitable to tlioir views. Thh was at len^h selected and secured, and the hud is now offered to [M.rcliaserMat five and six dollars per acre, according- to its loral situation. In order to per<^njide emigrants to settle here, a book has been pnblii^hed by a Mr. Johnson, under the patronai^e of the **So* ciety,*' whi^h paints in glowing' colours the advantages to be derived from such a plan ; deprecating in equally strong terms the idea of wandering so many hundred miles in search of Birkbeck's British settlement. In proof of his assertion that the Susqne- hannah is preferable lo the Illinois settle- ment^ he maintains, that when wheat is worth three-quiirters of a dollar per bushel at the latter place, it is worth one and a half at the former ; — and that Indian corn, which will only sell for 21 cents (about l\d.) at the Bolton prairie, will fetch a dollar (4s. 6d,) at Montrose. Oats are worth two-fiftlis more; — butter, four-iifteeuths ; — cheese, thr^e-fiflhs ;— and fowls one-fifth more, in 230 the Eastern settlement. Labour, of course, can be had lower, from the proximity of the great landing- places. New York and Phi- ladelphia. He asserts further, that the rent, taxes, tithes, manure, and stock of a farm of 100 acres in England will purchase double the quantity of land in this country with 100 of it cleared, and put the stock upon it. His calculations are as follow : Rent, Taxes, Stock, S^c, for 100 acres in England, £. S. Dollars. Rent 200 or 889 Taxes & Poor Rates 50 or 222 Tithes 20 or 88 Manure ^ - 20 or 88 12 Cows 156 or 693 60 Sheep •67 10 or 300 4 Horses 100 or 444 6 Young Cattle 40 or 176 Waggon and Cart 50 or 222 Ploui^rhs & Harrows 10 or 44 Geeringj &c. 18 or 80 4 Hogs 9 or or 40 740 10 3286 231 The reader will observe that Mr. J. has' made a mistake in some of the items of the above statement. Let the question simply be, — is he riglit or nearly so, iii ihe sum total required for capital in the pro- per management of such farm plus the a- mount of the yearly rent? American Account, Dollars. £. 200 acres of land, ^clear- • ed, in the Siisquehannah county, with a farm-house and buildings upon it would cost - - - 2000 or 450 J2Cows 240 or 54 60 Sheep 120 or 27 4 Horses at 70 dollars 280 or 63 6 Young Cattle 80 or 18 Waggon and Cart - 222 or 50 Ploughs and Harrows 44 or 10 Geering 80 or 18 4 Hogs 40 or 9 ■ 3106 or 699 In the first item of the latter calculation, the author has made a capital blunder.- I! l>Si I'i 23« According to a statement in another part of his elaborate work, (and which statement will no doubt be the l-owe»t that could be max'**,) it is calculated that dearing and fencinw cost!? per acre 12 dollars. Taking this for our price, the clearing and fencing of 100 acres will cost l,200ddlaus or £W0 ; the purchase of 200 acres at the lowest rale 5 dollars per acre, 1000 dollars, or i:225. So that here is a cost of 220 dol- lars, independent of the expentce of build- ing the fann-house anil offices, which would' Cost 800 more; — to say nothing of the in- t« rest of the money laid out in the pur- chase before the farmer can reap a crop. Who would sell such a farm to a British emigrant, at oMe-third less than the cost,- — and in country too, which, it would appear fromthe reports of ihis" Emigrant Society;,*' is rising so fast in wealth and importance? In ordc3r to show how well calculated such ^detailed accounts are to deceive the unwa- ry, t need only rcjfer the reiuler to Mr. iiii'fcbeck's slatemeiit ia. his tenth lettei!* froiT) the Illinois, and the reply to it by Mr^ Cohbett. ' In vol. iii. of the Memoirs of the Phila- delphia Society for promoting agriculture, is the following calculation. It is intended to encourage the breaking up new land, by showing that " the average produce of ai> acre'of ground will pay for the whole cost of clearing, &c. and even the original price of the land, in the first year.*' D. C. "It is calculated that with us clearing and fencing cost per acre 13 One bushel of wheat sowed on do. - - - r - 1 50 Harrowing do. • ^ SO, tJavesting do. - - 2 3 75 Thrashing do. The whole cost of clearing, sowing, &c. of an acre - 23 25 or about £b sterling. *'If the crop be estimated at 20 bushels per acre, this at 1^ dollar, (the price it com- monly sells for between spring and harvest,) amounts to 30 dollars, or£615s«; leaving 2 G 234 a profit per acre of 7 dollars and 75 cents, or £1 15s." This is a delusive kind of reasoning". But to set this in a proper point of view, we must assume new data. The settler does not purchase this solitary acre. It is, we will suppose, part of a lot of 200 acres. This land in the new British Settlement, will, at the lowest calculation, cost 10(30 dvollars, or £225 sterling-. It will perhaps be granted to me, that the interest of the capital employed in the purchase, must be considered as the yearly rent of the land. In this case, as a credit is allowed for part of the purchase-money, we will deduct 100 dollars, or £25, for prompt payment. The interest then of the sum of £200, at the rate of six per cent, is £12 per annum, which must be considered as the rent of the estate. He can reap no wheat the first year, consequently (taking the estimate of the expence of clearing, putting in the crop, &c. as before,) the account ought to stand as follows: — mts. 235 Two years' rent at £12 £24 no* Expences as above for 10 acres. e\v. at £b per acre - - - 50 the Total £74 The value of ten acres of wheat, at the highest vahiation, viz. £6 15s. would be only £67 10s. In the above statement, the remaiiiing lot of 190 acres is considered worth nothing. There is no grass upon it, and if a cow is kept alive, &c. by browsing, her milk is not worth more than the labour of fellinij the trees for her use, 1 have only calculated the expences and the net produce of ten acres for the first crop as above, in order to expose the falla- ** cy of those numerous statements, which, be- ing built upon the same grounds as those taken by Mr. J., are suffered to go forth to the world uncontradicted. They operate with great force upon the minds of those emiiirrants who are unable to make their own calculations, and detect the imposture. The consequence is, that they make their 236 purchases rashly, and, calculating upon a quick return, too often sink too great a pro- portion of their capital at their first en- trance upon their farm. Thus they involve themselves in difficulties, from which a life of indefdtigahle industry vvili fecarcely relieve them. Mr. Birkbeck, in his estimation of the capital necessary for sitting down com- fortably upon a section of prairie land, takes only one-seventh of the sum for tlie purchase of the ground. How much smaller then ought that proportion to be when the settlement is wood-land ! Let it not be imagined, that because it appears by my calculation that the farmer will be out of pocket by the culture of his first ten acres, he will continue to lose by such a method of proceeding. It must be remembered that the next crop upon the same lot will cost comparatively little, while he continues to encroach upon the forest every year. According to the principle acted upon in my calct elation, viz. laying the estimated rent upon that land which 237 alone is of any advantage" to the settler, the more land he gets under cultivation, the less will every sncceeding acre cost him in clear^ irig. In process of time, if he is industri- ous, his estate will become valuable, and WJH abundantly-repay all his labours. / If the emigrant who has been accustomed to English husbandry, is unable or unwill- inig to parchase an improved estate, in the itlidst of civilized society and not far from a market for his produce, let Inm push forward to the prairie countries — Indiana, Illinois, or the Missouri. He will there find land of the finest quality, divested of its timber, and ready for the operations of agriculture. In this county (Susquchannah) I had of-» fered an estate of 240 acres, of which fifty are cleared, with two framed dwellings, one of which is kept as a tavern, five burns, and a blacksmith's shop upon the same, for about one thousand guineas. The State j*oad divides the estate. Near the same place, I had another estate offered for sale of about 146 acres, one half 238 of which is in an improved condition, with a framed dwelling. The price asked was five hundred o:iiineas. The soil on holh of the above places is strong and fertile, laying upon a stiff clay. Window glass costs here about l^d. per foot. A good barn J made of sawn timber, and covered with rough boards, 50 feet by 40, and finished with stabling at one end, can, we are told, be raised for £60, cost of materials included. Grist mills cost from £225 to £450. Saw mills, which are in- dispensably necessary in new settlements, may cost from 60 to £130. A single saw cuts from one to two thousand feet of tim- ber in a day. Pine boards sell at the rpill at about a halfpenny per foot, less or more, according to quality. Cherry boards, near- ly equal to mahogany, for less than a pen- ny. Shingles of white pine, at 9s. per 1000, &c &c. For above a hundred miles this country is very mountainous, and generally covered with timber. The soil varies much in qu4- 239 lity, but the greater part is good. There are few settlements. Here and there, we found a lonely habitation. These we ob- served had a disgraceful appendage to them, in the huts of negroes. How strange it is, that Americans, than whom no men are more loud in their praises of Liberty, still continue to hold their fellow- creatures in Ihe bonds of slavery, and that merely be- cause they find them '"guilty of a skin not coloured like their own " ! ' ** The natural bond Of brotherhood is severed, as the flax That falls asunder at the touch of fire. Thus man devotes his brother, and destroys, And worse than all, and most to be deplor'd. As human nature's broadest, foulest blot. Chains him, and tasks him, and exacts his sweat With stripes, that Mercy, with a bleeding heart, Weeps, when she sees inflicted on a beast.*' May the time soon come, when this dis- graceful and inhuman practice of trading in human flesh, shall be entirely abolished ! Mount Pleasant — is a new settlement. The situation lofty and healthy, and the land excellent. 240 During our stay here, understanding that a numerous meetin*^ of the "^Baptists was to he held on the Sabbath, on the banks of a brook which runs between tvvo of these mountains in the neighbourhood, we walked to the place. We entered the valley, and proceeding' up the banks of the stream, soon arrived at the place of destination. The heavenly strains of the women-sina^ers float- inid fifteen slaves in ten years! In Georgia, Virginia, Kentucky, and Ma- ryland, the slaves form about one-third of the population. Whether the liberation of all these slaves at one time would be a mat- ter of policy, is doubtful ; but it is grating to the feelings of every son of humanity to see, that tiioiigh the importation pffliese creatures is prohibited, the ir p^iiifrWfTs en- creasing in nearly the saiiac ratio as that of the free part of the j^flrjrulation. ** I would not ta^e a slave to till my ground* To carry ipe^ to far^ me while I sleep, , 'And trouble when I wake, for all the wealth / , That sinews bought and sold have ever earn'd. No : dear as freedom is, and in my heart's Just estimation priz'd above all price, I had much rather be myself the slave, And wear the bonds, than fasten ihem on him,** 253 Farms of every description are offered for »ale. Near the banks of the Hudson, the Delaware and the Scuylkill, good farms may be bought for about ten or eleven "ui- neas per acre. Much of the land in these situations, is very productive. The vicini- ty of the cities, and the easy carriage of goods, render the produce v^ry valuable. The taxes and poor-rates an trying. The absence of tithes is also a great privileo-e. The owner can with truth say, " this ground is my own." He holds it upon no slavish condition. The birds of the air which he feeds, — the fishes which swim in his streams, —as well as all the metals and minerals con- tained within the bounds of his farm, to the very centre of the earth, nay be claimed by him by a title which no one will dare to dis- pute. He has a share in the government of his country, having a free vote in the election of representatives and senators, 'His political rights are secured to him; and with respect to his religious privileges, he can worship God under his own vine 256 and his own fiij^-trce, none daring to mal\e him afraid. There are no dissenters, for there is no establish ment fo dissent f.'ojn ; — hence, no one has to pay for what he can'« not conscientiously receive Nevertheless, stranij^e as it may seem to those who think that the ark of ihe Lord cannot be kept from fallinii: unless the head of a State be upraised to support it, the cause of religion seems to prosper. May it continue to da so, until the earth shall be filled wjtb tji^" excellency of the knowledge of Christ Jesus* // ray Lord! ^g^'^ >^l C #V' •.'*' THE END. I I »i »i H. bat email, Printer , Appleby, % clot ■ '.•.i^- ;<:W '"^■9fc" '■ .