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RENFREW & CO., FUR MERCHANTS. 33 & 37 Buade Street, QUEBEC. inte.rf>1 according to act cf fho Parliament of ^ <" • > ' v y^mr I. '04 by G. R. Renfrew at the Department uu IB A DAY IN QUEP.EC. The tourist who has but one day to spare for Ci^ue})ec, is naturally anxious to crowd into it as much as pos- sible, and for him a rather arduous programme may be j)repared. The Citadel is always the first " point of interest," and to save time it is well to drive there, securing a carriai^o whose driver can tjilk f^nirlish. The road up to the Citadel is somewliat like a maze, and you are driven througli a chain gate that is worthy of notice, ])ut at the inner gates a sentry l)ars the way, and to proceed further, you must go on foot. You are given in charge to a soldier who makes it his business to tell the weiglit of the different guns, to call your attention to the one cai)tured at Bunker Hil), to inform you concerning the nature of the different buildings within the enclosure, and finally, to lead you to the King's Bastion, the liighest part of the Citadel, from which a gun is fired at noon and at half past nine 4it uioht. The view from that point is said to be unequalled in America. Where else can one see such a panorama ? the wide stretch of harbor with the mountains beyond, the scattered white villages of the St. Charles valley, and nearer still the tin-roofed houses of Quebec itself, packed tightly together upon tlie steep slope, as if for mutual support. But if you have only one day to stay, you must not lingei- long over that lovely prospect. You must be content with a distant view of the long drawn out village of Beauport leading to the falls of Montmorenci, with but a field-glass inspection of the church at Ste. Anne de Beaupie, and quickly return to the Citadel gates where your driver, or " carter " as he is called »> here, awaits you. DriviiiL,' down Citadel liill ho may sii^j^c'St that you ah"uht anil walk nlong the rampart. s for a slntrt distauce, joitiin^ liiin lower down at St. Louis (late. By so doiujj; you will have another ningnilicent view of river, mountain and ]>lain, which never look <|uite the same when se(Mi fromdilVerent points. You cannot avoid noticiiiLf liow close upon the street all the houses within the walls are huilt, how each has its douhle door, and is clup-lxiarded over the stone or brick u])on the side next the east wind, which is ramjtant heio in winter. Throu<;h St. Louis CJate you drive, past the <,'randly situated new Tarliament Jiuildings on the ri«ht, and (u the left the Skating IJiiik and Drill Ilall. lu front of the latter is the Short-Wallack Alonument, which commemorates the fact of these two gallant soldiers losing' their lives when rendering assistance at one of Quebec's many large tires. So on^ut the Clrande Alice to the toll-gate where your driver will mak(^ a detour to the Plains of Abraham to show you the spot, upon which is erected a monument with the inscription : " HERE DIED WOI-FE VKTOinoUS, SEIT. 18Tir, 1759. " If you are of an imaginative turn of mind you can till in all the details of that biief, brilliant battle that changed the destiny of North America. A mile or so further out the road, if time permits, you can be driven into the grounds of Spencer Wood, the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of Quebec, beautifully situated on the bank of the St. Lawrence, and if you choose to walk over to the edge of the cliff you can see the ravine up which Wolfe brought his men to take Quebec. Time tlies, and you must hasten back to town, crossing from the St. Louis to the Ste. Foye Head by |i 1^ ■s-.r--aa«»-'.;f^.' — a . the winding', trL't-bordt'ied lielvrdeiv. Diivint,' in the Ste. Foye Koiid one jijets to know by sight iit least, th;3 Ini'ge suburhs of St. Ifoch's and St. Sauveur, with their s])uciou.s ehiii'che.s, and tlien; is always the lovely mountain tV.iine npou the horizon. TheR* is an in- terestin«^^ ninninnent upon this road erected to (Jenerals Levis and Murray, in memory of the aLtem[)t by the French to re-take (Jjuebec in 1700. It is time for lunch when you get to townag.iin nnd afterwards you will stroll into th«' venerable l>asilica, or j)er(^hanee into Kenfrew's large fur store opposite, which is known as oiui of the sights of (^ueb^c. This tirm buys its pelts direct from tlw Indians, and the employees can tell many stories of the customs of that primitive peo])le, who have become almost extinct in Eastern America. Take a promenade on the DulVerin Terrace over- looking the river, siud l»ranch off into the CJovernor's Gardens wlieie is the joint monument to Wolfe and Montcalm. The elevator at the end of the Terrace will shoiten your descent to Lower Town and will land you in Little Champlain Street, that narrow, phmked alley with high roofed houses on either side. Still more (jiiaint is Sous le Cap, which can )>e reached by taking the turn into Sault au Matelot Street, from Alountain Hill. You can drive through this street ])rovided there is a guarantee that you meet no other vehicle. There are the same high, French roofs with j.eaked windows in them, and here and there a [U'op reaching across the way, frail enough sujiports, if t\\^ sturdy clitf which protrutles itself at intervals should take it into its head to advance further. The Lower Town is the point of departure either by boat or train, and even if you have seen all that c m be seen in one day, you will go away with a firm belief in the delightfulness of what you have not seen, and with an equally firm determination to come again. TWO DAYS IN QI^KnEC. II If you have two days to span' for Quebec, you will arrange the prograiiiiiie of the first u little diilerently. On your luorniug drive you need not cros? from St. liOuis to Ste. Koye lioad by the llelvedere, l)ut can continue out the former to the crossing which takes you round by the village of Ste. Foye, whose huge church is a striking mnrk on the hillside as seen from many miles to tin* noith jind cast. In this way you will pass the two principal cemeteries of (^)uebec, notable for the beauty of their situation, on the high bank over- looking the St. Lawrence, will drive through the picturesijue handet of liergerville, and have passing glimpses of the many tine residences on the St. Louis Jload, whose extensive, well-kept grounds, remind one of English country seats. U])on the cross road leading through Ste. Foye, there is a considerable rise in the ground which enables one to get an extra jnH'p, to stand on tip-toe, as it were, and thereby to see more of the wide i)anorama of river, mountain and valley, than has been possible all along. Driving in by the Ste. Foye Road, one who is interested in churches, may take time to alight at the imposing structure of St. Jean Baptiste in St. John Street, which is next to the Basilica in importance among the French churches of the city. With a second day in view, the traveller may well leave over his visit to Sous-le-Cap and Little Cham- plain Street, and also his inspection of the furs in G. It. Renfrew & Go's until the afternoon of the second day, and on his first afternoon spend more time in the Basilica, where the pictures are worthy of attention. Some of them were sold for a song in France at the 5 — i tiiiiu of the Pt'volutioii iiinl arc Siii«l t<» 1»l! j^LMiuine works of i^'i'eat inask-rs. He may ulso visit the St- iiiiiiaiy Chapel and have an liour or so for Laval Uni- versity where tliere is a museum and i)ictur(* <;!dlery, the hitter partieuhirly interesting. These iire open to the public free on Tliursday afteruoonj, and on other days by payment of a small charge. If the weather he tine, the morning of the second day cannot be better spent tliin in taking the walk all round the ramparts. Thi«< is e* uugh for a whole fore- noon, because, though not a long distanc', it is a some- what fatiguing ramble, mj nd down ".nil ; and in pIat(!S it becomes a scrandde, ovev ' its of wall and across cannon ditches wliere the \(3ry iiarndess-looking old guns so ])eacefully repose. \ ou want plenty of time too, to allow of a seat here and theie to enjoy the lights and shadows on the distant hills view(;d from different points. The mountains have a kaleidoseopii; habit of sliding behind one another, of jo.stling each other to peer over <'ach other's shoulders and many other little tricks which njuder them fascinating in the extreme. There are none of the original gates of the city left standing, and those on Palace, Hope and Mountain Hills, have never been restored ; but the present three — St. John's, St. Louis and Kent Gates, are pictureseen brought from parishes up or down the river by the market steamers wliich lie lliree or four abreast along the quay. Tlie open ,spacj out- side of the large stone market building is planked over; and upon it tlie "habitiints" sit with their iiieeji stult spread out on the boards aroi-ml them. Tiiere they gesticulate and vociferate to assist their patoisif with an energy indescribable. This part of tlio Lo^-er Town of which you have already had a bird's eye view from the Terrace, has a past as well as a present interest, for it was in this neighborhood that Champlain erected the first building of Quebec in 1008. Not far olf is the oldest church in the city, perhaps also the oldest in Canada — Notre Dame des Victoires. After breakfast you will be ready for a drive, and this time it shall be out to Jeune Lorette in a Cileche, that jaunty, hooded, two-wheeled veliicle peculiar to Quebec, whicli reminds one of a covered buggy on J r'*i» • .-WSiaMMildiii,*,,-. «; l.S stilts. Its lioi*,'ht makes it ratlier hard to descend from, and therefore it were best not to take a caleche except for an uninterrupted drive. On the road to Jeune Lorette the characteristics of Frecch C?inada will be apparent to the least observant. At the villatje itself dwell the last remnants of the Hurons. They have intermarried largely with their French neighbors but the Indian features and habits still predominate. There is a very pretty water fall in the village, and less than a mile farther on is the reservoir, formed by the damming back of the St. Charles iJiver, which provides Quel)ec with water. That is a delightful spot to partake of the lunch which you have doubtless brought with you, and if you be of an adventurous turn of mind you may take a canoe and paddle all the way up to Lake St. Charles, one of those lovely slieets of inland water within easy driving distance of Quebec. Ketmning from Jeune Lorette you may pass through the vilhiue of Charlesbourg and will return to town with enough remainino- enersry for an evenintj stroll on the Terrace, to watch the lights spring out in Lower Town and in Levis over the way. -M- SKVKN DAYS IN QUEBEC. If you spend a week in Quebec, one of your days must of ni.'cessity be a Sunday, and there are many oliurches from wliich to choose. The Enulish Trotestant Cathedral which is situated on a stattdy square near the Terrace, and surrounded by Itcnutiful linden trees is a tine old l)uildin<,' and contains two tattered tings which create a roniantio interest. Thev were left there by the 69th Iieuiment of the British Army when it was presented with new colors in IS 70. One of the spectacles on Sunday mornings is the assembling,' of the Canadian regulars in the (Cathedral Square, after service, and their quick march off to the Citadel headed by the regimental band. St. Matthew's Church out on St. John Street is surrounded on three sides by an interesting, old burying- ground, in which near the street is a tom))-stone erected to the memory of a brother of Sir Walter Scott. Among tlie lioman Catholic Churches the Basilica has of course the best music ; but those wlio want an English speaking preacher must yo to St. Patrick's Church the large edifice upon McMalmn Street. A sermon from nature may be found in a Sunday afternoon walk ujjon the Glacis where one can not be driven. Strnlling along the heights one is elevated physically ami spiritually by the sight of those peace- ful, blue mountains upon the horizon, and the quiet Howing St. Lawrence far below. Even the Martello r ;. / . 15- Towers no longer sufrgest wnrs nor rumors of wars, for in lliese times of ] ence they do but keep watch upon tlie squads of red-coated gcdfers, who during tlje week pursue their httle white balls over the historic Plains of Aljraham. If you can tear ycuirself away from that "happy hunting ground," tak.* a turn down Lachevrotiere Street and hear the nuns sing their vespers at four o'clock, in the chapel of Le Bon Pasteur. ^ There are two Tresliyterian, one Methodist and a Baptist Church at which morning or evening service may be attended ; and some part of the day you will be sure to find your way to the Terrace, for an airing there seems indispensable upon Sunday to every re- sident of Quebec even if he be but of one week's standing. -)(>(- EIGHT DAYS IN QUEBEC. So far the fittention of the tourist hds been confined to the North side of the river, and before tin's time he has probably been tempted to take a run over to Point Levis and to ramble up and down that queer, old town, which for steep streets, fine views, and French speaking population rivals even Quebec itself. A more complete expeHition may be made by takint,' the Island boat as far as Sc. Joseph landing there and walking or driving back to Levis, returning thence by the ferry. In this way a pleasant forenoon may be spent visiting the modern forts on that side of the river, instructive in themselves and altogether delightful from the charming prospects they command. The afternoon's drive should be out the St. Louis or Ste. Foye Eoad to " Sandy Banks," a steep descent to the level of the St. Charles valley, from the top of which the wide stretch of countrv is seen to threat advantage. The drive can be continued around a loop of the Little Biver, as the St. Charles is familiarly called, iind its varied scenery, the frequent glimpses through the trees, of the shallow, stony stream with its high, wooded banks are a complete change from the grandeur of the mighty St. Lawrence. There is an old-f,. <- G. R. REHFREW & GO'S AS A pdU Slock of ihe nc^/y-est styles is on iRspectiea throughoiLl the year. fJXCU SIVE DESIGNS IN .-^■-''e ^adijz^' 0jzal^kin afe^ |_ION, JlGER, |_EOPAI\p, -pOLAR BeAR, ^USK px AND OTHER Skins suitable for p.UGS ALWAYS IN STOCK. ,'S*' ! :.^ritmBmM^mMmLTSHMKNT IS SITUATED IX Til M CKNTRAr. I'AKT OF TlI K I'PPER TOWN, DIKKCrrLV OPl'OSf'I'K TO THE BASILIC A, AND WnTIlN A FEW MINt'TIvS' WALK OF TH E PRINCIPAE HOTELS. WITHOUT SEEING G. R. RENFREW & GO'S Magnificent Display of Furs and . Fur Garments, W HICH WILL B E SHO WN \\Vm PLE ASURE A ND WITHOUT SOLICITATIONS TO PURCHASE. Braneh: o KING STKEET EAST, TORONTO. ^^_ —. _!^ rmmgmimm f^m : ummibi m!f>iv'm >m'>m m QUEBEC'S PALATIAL HOTEL JiiJP ?^: ?iJ1i 3^: H^- :^: ^i ?^: W< ^"^^ ^^■'^-S^^ Pg?; m: m. ^ ?0^., r^: m. m m. ?t^: %^ i*^i?'. ''>">; .'■''>;.'''^^, ."< '>;.'' 'J^;.^'>"' .'''j^' .'''iv',^'?' ."^'S"; •5*i.'''">;.''''>";.'V')^' .''^'>'' .''f" .''i^' ,';.'''^' ^t'T' ''i>"' ViM s>^' ■<<»>}• ■A»>i' ''^>fi 'i^v/j -fii: Jit'w' '?=-'" i'^y"-- -- ir The Chateau Frontenac .\ .M:ii;liilirfnl New llnUl. stjuid.s Ml tlic l'];ist i-fii t'lul of t he faniuu^ DuffVi'iu 'l\ rrai-i'. rniiiiiiaii(lii»'4 dfliLjlitful \ lews of tlir St, liawmicr as far a.s the cyt' can vracli, ilowii pa.-^t the l.slc ir( )rh'aii,s. acros.s to [jcvi.s aiitl lt(\Mii(l. 11)) stream to Sillery, and, to the h'ft, the eoiuiti'v aloui;' the heautifid \aHeyof the St. ('hal'h;s Kivev. The '^randciiv of the st-eiu'i'y is iiule,scril)al>le ; it is matehh'ss in diversity and ehaiiiiitej; in etrect. No trraiider site foi' such ii. struetiire eouhl l)e foutid on t hr cont iiient . Address : FRANK U. STANTON, Manager Chateau Frontenac, Quebec. • ; < » 4 I Ml PA ►<■ ►f ► y\ " ' j a mw»^ ^yy