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THOMAS FAUGHNAN.

LaU Ccltmr-Sergeant 2nd BaUution 6ik JSoyat iZ^nMiii

••IFaiilifta nntd 9»a«l|.'*

32nd nonMuid EDlarred tad Dltulnittd.

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fUBUSHED BY THOMAS FAUOHNAIl

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OM tIkmMWil «<ght hvndnd and Mmt^.nbM^ by Thomas

Favouui^

in tht Office of tte Minbtor of AgrioultttMb

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[AM FaU«WUI|

GOVERNOIMJEKEBAL OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

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TO HIS BXOELLBNCT

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[% BT SPECIAL PERmSSION, RESPECTFULLY DEDIOATBD

Mi HIS HDMBLl AKD OBIDIEKT SnTANT,

THOMAS FAUOHNAN.

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TESTIMONIALS TO THE WRITER.

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Edikobubgh Castls, April iSth, 1868.

I have great plemaara in stating that I have known iSergeant Th<^maa
Paughnan for about nine yearn, aad, daring most of that period, he was
Pky and Colonr-Sergt. of my company. He was also Sergt. -Major of a
Detachment of which 1 had command, and I cannot say too icnoh in hii
favour, either as a soldier or a trustworthy person.

He always gave me the greatest satisfaction, in the position' he was

E laced, both by his high sense of discipline, as well as his entire know-
Klge of drill, and he leaves the regiment with the respect of every one.

(Signed) JOHN B. TEWART,

[TbuxCopy.] Captain gnd BcM. etli Rojfoi BegimeiU,

Sergeant Faughnan was discharged from the 2nd Battalion 6th Fo6^^

I in Edinburgh, May, 1868, after twency-one years' service, with m ft-

I oellent character. I have pleasure in stating that I consider him a mort

I honest, trustworthy, respectable man ; for many years he held positioD«

of much responsibility.

(Signed) JOHN KLKINGTON,
/ Colonel Comtnand'g ind BaU, 6tfi MwkU JStghniiU

ALDtabtfone Camp, July lOth, 1868.
[[1^c& Copy.]

— — — ^ I

I have known Sergeant Thomas Faughnan, late Sergeant in the 2nd
JBabtalion 6th Regiment for about ten years, during which time he served
las Pay and Colour-Sergeant to accompany, with gnat satbfaction to the
UDaptamv , aAso as Sergeant-Major to a Detachment, in which prsition,
»y his Bt«)ady conduct and fair knowledge of drill, he commanded the
speot of his superiors. He has since served as Mess and Wine Seri;ear.
tiie Battalion ; and has been sober and attentive to those duties. I
recommend him as a general useful Non-Commisioned OlScer.

(Signed) HENRY KITCHEN fcJIi,

Lieut, and Adjt. tnd UatuUiuu Glh Foo$
Edinbdroh CA8TI4B, gSt 4* *^'
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4'£SmfONIALS TO THE WRITER.

t have known Sergeant Faaghnan — ^now taking his diioharge fromth^
8th Regiment, with a pension, after twenty-one yearn* service— since the
year I860, and have served with him in Gibraltar, the Ionian Inlands,
and the West Indies. Up to 1865 he was a Colour-Sergeant of the
Regiment, and as such was very mnch respected. About the middle of
the year he became Sergeant of the Officers' mess, in which position he
remained up to the departure of the Kegiment from Edinburgh, on the
22nd May, 1868. He was for about two years caterer of the said Mess,
and in addition had charge of all wines, ale, &c. Thout ands of pounds
mnst have passed througn his hands, for every portion of which he has
had to account, and his remaining up to the last moment in the mes^ is
a proof of his having done no most satisfactorily. I, myself, have a
very high opinion of Sergeant FaUghnan for his straightforwardness,
honesty, sobriety, ability, and steady good-conduct. 1 am sure his loss
will be much felt in the 6th Regiment.

(Signed) L. B. HOLE,

[Tbue Copy.] / Capt. Snd BaU. €th Royal Kegiment.

Horse Guards, War Office, S. W,,J89th August, 1S79.

Sm,— In reply to your letter of the 10th instant, forwarding a book
entitled " Life df a British Soldier," by Thomas Faughnan, late Colour-
Seretant 2od Batt. 6th Foot, I am desired to acquaint you that ths
Field Marshal Commanding-in-Chief considers such a prod ction vei^
creditable to this non-coramissioned officer and has directed that it
should be forwarded to the Director-General of Military Education, in
<ttder that if considered desirable, it may be added to the list of booki
for sdldien* libraries.

I have the honour to be. Sir, .

Yonr obedient servant.

M. P. DILLON. \

JTkpb Co»t.1 AfajoT-OtMrkl

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PREFACE.

,N laying the history of my life and travels before the
public, I deem it right to state that 1 am past the
middle age ; this I feel compelled to mention, because it
is4Qy opinion that no man should write a history of him-
self until he has set foot upon the border land where thjs
past and the future begin to blend. When the past has
receded so far that he can behold it as in a picture, and
his share in it as the history of a soldier who has fought
for his Queen and country, and had many narrow escapes
of death. But, thank God, I have been spared thus far
to confess my faults, and my good deeds look miserably
poor in my own eyes ; indeed, I would no more claim a re-
ward for them than expect a captain's commission.

The countries and incidents described in this work
will be found, I trust, interesting to all classes of persons'.
The history of a soldier's life and travels is always an
entertaining and instructive one. Many books on the
lives of officers have been written by learned men, con-
taining much information, and highly useful to the scholar,
but they do not interest the mass of common readers.

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Odito, 'again, pass so rapidly from place to place, and
are so general in their description, the reader gets but
vexy imperfect ideas from reading them. These extreme^
the writer has endeavoured to avoid. It has been my ob«
ject to select the most important events of my life, and
to describe them in a plain and familiar style. I have
not indulged in learned dissertations, my common, oM
fadiioned Irish school education being too limited to give
that classical finish to the work which a learned writer
would have done. Indeed, it has not been my intentioh
to write a book for the learned or critical, but to give to
th& public a volume written in a homely style by a non-
commissioned officer, to instruct and interest the family
and the common reader as well as my comrades, it,
while dilating on the exploits of my comrades in armi,
I have omitted to pay proper respect to gallant foes, it is
because I know that history will supply the deficiency.
Time will gild with glory a Trojan defence, fitly closed
by a successful retreat across a burning bridge, under a
heavy ^. But come along, dear reader, and try whether
in my first chapter I cannot be a boy again, in such a way
that my reader will gladly linger a little in the meadows
of childhood, ere we pass to riper years and stirring battle-
fields,

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00]S"TENTS.

CHAPTEE I.

ffduofttion — Bfv SchoolmMter— School House — My Father, Mother,
Sisters, — Our House 17

CHAPTER II.

River Shannon — Deny Came — Our Farm — My Sisters get Married
— Cave — Still House — Still and Worm — Prouess — Interior —
Revenue PoUoe — Paudeen's Story .,.,,i 99

CHAPTER IIL

Advanced School — State of the country — Emigration — Cause of
Poverty — Irish Landlords — Potato (>op — Dishonest Agents —
Election — Politics — I enlist — ^The Recruiting Sergeant — My
Native Land 4S

CHAPTER IV.

Swearing in — March to Dublin — Sergeant's Story — ^Arrival in Dnb*
lin — Be^^ar's Bush Barrack — ^fiations — The City — Embark' .
ation — ^e ^ hip— The voyage^Liverpool — ^Traii^to London-~
Billets — Canterbury — Join uie 17th Eegiment 5^

CHAPTER V. , ,

Medical Examination — Receive My Kit — Drill, Manual and Pla<
toon Exercise — Dismissed Drill-' Visit the City — Description
—Route— The March , 79

' CHAPTER VL

Arrival at Dover — First guard — The Dead House — Ohost — ^The
Heights — Shaft — Fortitications — ^Marching out^Chartjst Riots
— ^Train to London — Departure— Osborne House — Main Dock
—Route to Chatham— Siege— Shi^m Fight : 89

CHAPTER VII.

Route to Canterbury— The Sereeant^s Story— The Quaker's Stwy .
—The Maroh—AfTival—Uhftth«m—Dogk-yard— Furlough V»

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Xii ^ ' CONTKNTO.

London— -That Oreat City — Join My Gompuiy-- Shoernen —
The Dockyard— Get married— RoAto to Weedon— 4U>ute to
Inliyid IM

CHAPTER VIIL

liTMrpool — Embark, for Dublin — The Voyage — Arrival— March —
The train — The March to Caitlebar — ^Arrival — ^Election—
Ruute tu Oalway. 1S7

CHAPTER IX.

The March — Galway — Captain Bourchier— Detachment — Jaok'a ^
Story — Regatta — Row with the Police— Rente to Oalway —
Major Bourchier exchansea — Captain Croker— daddagh — At-
tend a Camp. Meeting— l^e City of Galway Theatre— Route to
Dublin 162

CHAPTER X.

The March — ^Rail to Dublin — Arrival— Garrison Duty — Caatle
Guard— The Uld Man's Hospital— Divine Service— Tent Pitch*
ing— Death of the " Iron Duke "— I'he Funeral— The Queen
Visit* Dttblin-^-Buildings and Institutions — The Route 189

CHAPTER XL

Arrival at Tenoplemore — The Route to Cork — Embarkation fer
Gibraltar — Queenstown — The Voyage— Storm at Sea— Gib« >
raltar aOS

CHAPTER XIL

The Landing — Barrack — Garrison Duty — Old North Front — Smug-
sding — Marke1^--Queeu's Birth-Day — The Dinner — Speedies —
The Itoute— The March— Embarkation for the Crimea— The .
Parting— The Voyagj— Arrival at Malta 218

CHAPTER XIIL

Maltese — ^Departure — A Captain Commits Suicide — The Funeral —
Small-Pox — Return — Resume the Voyage— Grecian Arches —
Dardanelles^-Gallipoli — Turkish Sentries— Constantinople — \
Turkish Ladies-r-The Bosphorus — Voyage across the Euxine —
Arrival 231

CHAPTER XIV.

DIsembarkatinn— Firat Bivouac— The March— Arrival— Sebaetamol-
The Trenches— First Man Wounded— Return to Camp— An Alarm
—Battle of Inkerman— Loi-d Raelan - Sortie— Foraginjr— The Old
Bridire— CoL Cole— The Sietre— Hanliug Bipr Guns— The Battle- -
Burving D«ad— FiBticuflEs-Tim Do.»lau'i» Letter— The Will-The
Turkt »,.,„M„.tt...T.t.. ?40

ooirrBNTB. xiii

CHAPTER XV.

lltfbktoB«Iald*ta— Retmii— M«n go Barefootod--Siiow flv« t««|l)iq>
—Long Boots— Hard Froat— GftVAlry Divi«ion— Bnriftl Groand--*
SoUtMy Proo«Mioii— Meat Froaea— I build a hut— Green Coffee-
Wintry Appearance— Dead Horaea— 63rd Regiment— Canying Pro*
Tiiioni— IVenoh aide— Shot and Shell— Tim Doolan— The Answer ,
-Balaldava ^

, CHAPTER XVL

Irenchet— Canal of Mud— RuMian New Tear— Heavy Fire— On Sea-
try— The Sortie— Old Brown Bees— Sortie— Airiyal in i amp-
Mew ityle of Candle— Flint and Steel— Making Coffee— Heavy
Snow— Mo Fire— Wann Clothing— Shot and SheU— The Battle—
DeMrtem Sli

CHAPTER XVIL

A man frozen— Whistling Dick — Reflections— Their own cdn— Fool>
ing them— A Friend— The French Zouave^What hare you in tha
Bag ?— An Alarm— Sortie— The Armistice— White flag— mffUaad*
ers— Guards— NavYiea— Lord Raglan — Deserters— Racaa— The Coa>
Mokn ,,,,,. , .,.♦»• S9B

CHAPTER XVni. '

Rifle-Pits-St. Patrick's Day— Fourth Division— French losa— Gent
Attack— The Battle— Flag of Truie— Burying the Dead~Bnni8>
killener— Hard Tack— Tiffin— The Alarm- fhe Advance— The Co»i
sacks— The Turks — Fair Amaions— The Onslaught— Daughters of
Erin— Russ. Advance— The Highlanders— Heavy Charge— Light
Brigade— The Charge 3S4

CHAPTER XIX.

Explosion— Pounced upon- TheAlarm— The Battle— Killed and wound-
ed— Wooden Huts— Good Times— The Turks— The March— Rule
Britannia— The Staff-^Bombardment— 'Hie Storm— The Siege-
Lieut. Williams— Sailors— I get wounded— Hospital— Sardidans—
Description— Attack on Quarries— Flag of Truce— Armistioe— Bury-
faig the Dead— Killed and wounded .37(1

- CHAPTER XX,

Bombaidment— The Aaaault— Great Redan— The Battle— Bfla-
kUva— Hospital— Miss ^ightingale— Nurses— Discharged from
Hoapital— Death of Lord Raglan. ^ . ........ 3m>

CHAPTER XXL /

dptain Ooiilll»int-r>8iepe—Bombar«lment—A85anIt— Redan— The
Battle— 8th Saptamber— The Evaouation— Russians— Britiah
In ttcbMlopol «K

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liptditii» to Kinlmni— The Vo7ag»--Odais»— Laadlnf— Onttiag

'<? TmolM*— BbmbMdnMnt— TIm White Flag— UMltal»tio»---

.„, . TIm PtiioiMn— ^teoHnaitMutet—TiM Mweh— lollag*— Bir'

^^i ^ OBM JUaroh— A ViUagfr— Figa and Q tmn D epaitw— The

FlMii--B«iiirii---8ir VCCodAigtoii--BiU8ianSp7 418

* CHAPTER XXIIL

AmUifelpe— Cessation of Hoitilitiea— Bzohaiun of Coins— H«ir to '
Frenoh Imperial Throne — Treaty of Peace — Invitations-
Grand Reyiew— Removal of the army— Embarkation— Tha ^
Voyam— Ship on fire— Arrival at Malta— Join the Beserva
Battalion— Proceed to Alexandria— The Voyage — ^Arrival—
(V VintFlaoesof Renown— Visit Cairo— The Nile— Arrival— The

^ City— Basaan 490

, CHAPTER XXIV.

The Fyraqaids— Crossing the NOe— Island of Rhoda— Ark of Bul-
nuhes — ^Visit Cheops — Heliopolis — Palace of Shoobra — Palm
Groves— The Citadel— Joseph's Well— Derviahea— Return.... 44

'- CHAPTER XXV.

Tha Hospital— Mohammedan Sabbath— Departure— The Voyage

V — ^Malt*— Departure — ^Voyage for England —> Portsmouth—

* < Voyage to Dublin- Arrival at Limerick— The 6th Royal Red-

wy:" : ment — Promoted — Aldershot — Route for Oibraltar^^ The

Voyage 458

CHAPTER XXVI. ^

Anival— Spaniah Bull Fights— Lieut. Jackson— Chanm Quartan
fA , —The Rock— Monkeys— Caves— Gardens— War in Tangiera—
Corfu— Voyage — Anrival — Santa Maria — Dteertion— Tha
? 'p Marah-Greeks 47

'^' CHAPTER XXVIL

Sir Henry Storks— Albania— Visit Necropolis— The Brigand Chief

—Turkish Baths— Coffee-Hou8»— Turkish Ladies' Costume—

Sergeants' Ball— The Route— Corfu— Route— West Indies

s. The Voyage— The Burning Mountain— Gibraltar— Madeira—

1^ - TbMrilla— Santa Cnu— Cape Da Verda IsUnds— Trinidad—

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CHAPTER XXVIII.

DiMhArged- Dalkeith— UlMgow—BmlMrk for CMUidft—Th* Voj^ .
MM— Thti Oootor*s Storj— Arrit»l— MontrMd - Klngiloii— Pieloo-*
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Bambi or THM Uakdsnillbs 289

A Tdbkish Ladt 241

Tu SuiJTAN'B Palaoi, Bbbaolio Poimt 242

Thi Sdia>ah , 244

a wondksfol e80api. 264

Chaiok or LiOHT Cavalbt at Balablava 372

FiBLD ATTBB A SOBTU , 897

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A BRITISH SOLDIER.

CHAPTER I.

IDVOATlbN — BCT 80HOOLMASTBK — SOHOOL-HOUSS — MT VATHBE —
MOTHBB — 8ISTBBS— OUB BOUSK.

HAVE for some time been trying to think how far,
back my memory could go ; but, as far as I can '
judge, the earliest definite recollection I have is the
discovery of how I played the truant, in stopping on
the wayside playing pitch-and-toss, instead of going to
school ; and how I cut all the buttons off my jacket and
trousers for the purpose of gambling with other boyk.
After losing all my buttons, I had to pin my jacket to
my^trousers. In Ireland, in those days, boys had to be
content with gambling for buttons, instead of coppers^ as
aow-a-days. I was late for school, and was rather re-
markable, going in with my trousers and jacket fastened
B

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EDUCATION.

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together with pins. I remember well the master calling;
me over to him. Oh ! I shall never forget his spiteAil .
countenance, and how he showed his ivories. My heart
beat fast 1 thought I was very wicked, and fright made
my heart jump to my mouth. I had to atand my trial
Master : ** Well, boy, what kept you late for school ? "
Before I had time to answer : " How came the buttons ofl
your clothes ? Tell me straightforwaixi, at once, who cut
them^off, and what became of them. Hold up your head
and speak out" " I — I — I — cut them off, sir, to play
with the boys, and they won my buttons." " Oh, ho 1 you
have been gambling, have you ? I will teach you to cut
the buttons off your clothes to gamble, Qo, stand in that
comer until I am through with the class. Pat Cannon,
take this knife, go out and cut a strong birch ; this one
I have is nearly worn out. I want a strong one for thit
youth."

While I was standing in the comer, one of the'' boyt»
or, as we used to call them, " gossoons," stole over to mo
and gave me a big shawl-pin, saying : " Stick this in the '
boy's neck who takes you on his back." I took the pin,
as I was told, and nerved myself up for the occasion.

"Dan McLaughlin, take Thomas Faughnan on your
beck." I was brought up in due form. " Take off your
jacket, and get on Dan McLaughlio'a back."

No sooner had I got on his baek, and before the master
had time to administer the first stroke of the birch, than
I sunk the big pin into the boy's neck. He shouted at
the top of his voice, yelled as if he had been stabbed with

•' '.'' ■ > \

■fl->'-

KT BOHOOLMAflm.

ft knife, and fell over the ether hoy, eautlng 4 grtAl
commotion. In the uproar and oonf usion I made my te-
capa out of the school, jacket in hand. The master stood
in a state of amazement It took him quite a while to
restore order among the boys. I waited outside until the
school came out, then went home with my comrades as if
nothing had happened, and did not go to school again for
three days. The master reported my absence. My father
questioned me concerning my absence from school. 1
then told him the whole story, and as I was afraid of
getting another flogging, he accompanied mo to school
next day.

It will be necessary here to describe the master and
the school The master had only one leg, and that was
his right ; he had lost his left while young by some means
which I never heard of; he walkod with a long cmtoh
under his left arm, and a short one in his right hand. Ha
trotted very fast, considering that he went on emtehes.
He was, in truth, a terror to dogs or animals which darod
to cross his path on his way to or from the school, and
could most wonderfully use the right-hand omtch, with
great skill and alacrity, in his own defence.

The school was held in the chapel, which was a most
peculiar edifice of ancient architectural design. Its shapo
was that of a triangle, each side of which formed a long
hall, one for boys, the other for girls. There was a gal-
lery at the extreme end of the girls' liall which tha
choir occupied during divine service. The structure trat
one stoiy in height, and had a very high,slanting, t^iatehed

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roof, with narrow gables. The edge of the gables rose,
apt in tv slope, but in a succession of notches, like stairs.
Altogether it had an extraordinary look about it — a look
of the time when men had to fight in order to have
|)eace ; to kill in order to live ; every man's hand against,
his brother. The altar stood on the acute corner of the
angle, facing the men's hall, with a railing around i^
Under the altar was a small hole, sufficiently largo for a
boy to crawl in. "^

One day I had done something for which the master
started to punish my back with the birch. He was lay-
ing it on pretty stiffly, and he had me in a tight place,
when, in self-defence, I pulled the crutch from under him.
He fell over, and I retreated into the hole under the altar.
However, tracing me out, he started to dislodge me with
his long crutch. For every thurst he ^ve me I gave
him one in return, until I found he was too strong for me,
when I made one diive at him, jumped out of my hiding-
place, and left for home in a hurry that day.

Next iay I expected a flogging, but I got off mach
easier than I had anticipated. Afterwards — how strange!
—he took quite a liking to me; and eventually I became
a great favourite of his. The number of pupils attending
wa^ over two hundred. The hall was s ipplied with fuel
by a contribution of two turf from each scholar every
morning, which he brought under his arm. Should a pupil
neglect this tribute of fuel, by au arbitrary mandate from
the old pedagogue, he was forced to suffer the penalty of
his crime, by being debarred from the pleasure of ap*

pr^).^.

■^rP

SCHOOL nrSPECTOB.

proaching the fire, therefore he was obliged to sib 8l)[iyei^
ing with cold at wheeling distance from ihe domestic
luxury during the school hours. •

The inspector being about to visit the school on his pro-
fessional tour, the master, who was solicitous, to verify
the progress made since the last examination, frequently '
advised the pupils individually on such questions as he
thought most likely would be put by the examining
officer. " Tommy, my boy," said he to me one day,
" should the inspector ask you what shape is the earth, I
will hold this snuff-box in my hand, which will remind
you that the earth is round."

At the examination several questions were asked by the
inspector. The boy next me was asked, " What shape is the
earth." *' Long, sir," was the answer. " How do you know
that it is long," said the officer. " Because I was an hour
commg to school this morning, sir, so I know it must be '
long." " You might be two hours walking to school,** said
he, " but that does not prove that the earth is long." " Next
boy," said the inspector, " what shape is the earth." The
master, through mistake took his square snuff-bo3: which
he always used on Sunday from his pocket, instead of
the round one which he used on week-days, whereupon I -
made answer, " Square on Sunday, and round on week-
days, sir." " Oh !" said the officer, ** that's a curious freak of
nature." " Why do you think so ? " said he, " Because mast-
er's snuff-box is square on Sunday, and round on other
days," said I, with a consciousness of pride at having an-
Bwered the question so cleverly. This answer caused the '

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MT FATHER— MOTHER— SISTEBa

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inspector to smile when he turned round and beheld th«
master's rubicund face crimson. Enough of my school
history — it would spin out my narrative unnecessarily.

I shall only relate such occurrences as may be necessary
to lead to those main events which properly constitute
my eventful history. I remember my father, but not my
mother. She died when I was yet a baby, and the wom^n
I had been taught to call mother was only my stepmother.
My father had married a second time, and now, our family
consisted of my father, stepmother, two sistors and my-
self. Our house was of olden-time stone, grey and brown.
It looked very grey and weather-beaten, yet there was a
homely, comfdrtable appearance about it A visitor's first
step was into what would, in some parts, here be called
" house place " — a room which served all the purposes of
kitehen and dining-room. It rose to a fair height, with
smoke-stained oaken ceiling above, aii/i was floored with
a home-made kind of cement, hard enough, and yet ,ao
worn that it required a good deal of local knowledge to
avoid certain jars of the spine from sudden changes oi
level. My sisters kept the furniture very clean and shining
especially the valued pewter oh the dresser, of which wc
were very proud. The square table, with its spider-like
accumulation of legs, stood under the window until meal
times, when, like an animal aroused from its lair, it
stretehed those legs and assumed expanded, symmetrical
shape in front of the fireplace in winter, and nearer the
door in summer. Its memory recalls the occasion of my
stepmother, with a hand at each end of it, searching f ran-

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fcically for the level, poking for it with the creature'? own
legs before lifting the leaves, and then drawing out the
hitherto supernumerary legs to support them, after which
would come another fresh adjustment, another hustling to
and fro, that the new feet likewise might have some chibnce
to rest. ^

The walls of this room were always whitewashed in
spiing, occasioning ever a sharpened contrast with the
dark brown oak ceiling. If that was ever swept, I nevei
knew. I do not remember ever seeing it done. At all
events, its colour remained unimpaired by hand or white-
wash.

The old-fashioned fire-place, which occupied a ipost
prominent place in the spacious apartment, stood out from
the wall about three or four feet — my father'»old arm-
chair on one side, and my stepmother's spinning-wheel on
the other. The beam which supported the base of thia
enormous sized chinmey projected considerably over the
fire-place towards the centre of the room. On the inside
of this protuberance hung many branches of dried garden
herbs for culinary purposes during the winter months,
together with several dried plants of medicinal properties,
such as feverfew, dandelion, camomile flowers, &c., as
specifics to the many diseases to which the human fi*ame
is susceptible.

The outside of this ponderous, but most essential, ad-
junct of the superstructure, was garnished with articles
foi* domestic purposes. From the ceiling hung a fiitch of
bacon, with a bronze coloured ham or two, . during the

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festive season. During the winter evenings many neigh-
bours were wont to assemble around the hospitable, \well*
swept hearth and comfortable bright turf £re; the old
people on one side talking politics and religion, or to sym-
pathize and coijidole with each other over the harsh treat-
ment perpetrated by some arbitrary land agent on some
hard-working, poor, but honest tenant, who had been
ejected from his home for non-payment of a rack-rent;
while on the other side some antic wag amused the young
folk, by some stories and anecdotes of Irish wit and
humour, which caused much laughter and merriment.
On the walls hung several quaint and curious articles,
which attracted my attention particularly — most of them
high above my head. Arranged between the old book-
shelves were ancient family pictures and heirlooms, em-
blematic of patriotism, and many other articles of antique
and Irish origin. I need not linger over these things.
Their proper place is in the picture, with which I would
save words and help understanding if I could, by present-
ing the gentle reader with one. But, unfortunately artists
were not so numerous, nor yet so accomplished at that
time as they are now-a-days.

MY NATIVE .VILLAGE.

Pel ■

Dear Fiama ! Ioveliev'> village of the green,
Where humble happiness endeared each aoene ;
The never-failing brook at Drumod Mill,
The parish church on John Nutley'a hill.

HT KATIYK YILLAOB.'

There in tiie old thatched du^l, ekflled to rale,
A one-legged master taught the parish school ;
A learned man iras he, but stem to vieir —
His cratch he often used, well the gossoons knew.

Well had the daring nrohins learned to trace
His scowling countenance, his fierce grimace:.
Yet they laughed with much delight and glee
At all his tales, for many a one had he.

In all my travels round this world so fair.
Of trials and marches I have had my share;
I still have hope my latter days to crown,
'Midst old friends at home to lay me down.

I trust and hope to visit home again,
And sell my book to every village swain;
Round the hearth a wondering crowd to draw.
While spinning yarns of what I heard and saw.

Men who a military life pursue,
Look forward to a home whence they flew;
i still have hopes my long eventful past,
Some day return, and stay at home at last

■■^91

\ '

'^'Ji

\ . • -■'■.■ v

CHAPTER IL

RirVR SHANNON — DESRT-CARNA— OUR FARM— MT SISTERS GET MAR-
RIBD — GAVE HTILL-HOUSE — STILL AND WORM — PROCESS — INTERIOl
— PAUDEEN'S story — REVENUE POLICE.

,UR residence was situated on a beautiful bav of the
Ri'v'er Shannon, in the country of Leitrim. The
month was July, and nothing could be more exhilarating
than the gentle breezes which played over the green fields
that were now radiant with the lii;ht which was flooded
down upon them from the cloudless sun. Around them
in every field, were the tokens of that pleasanc laboui
from which the hope of an ample and abundant harvest
always springs.

The bay was bounded on the west by a large wood,
where many stately wide-spreading oaks and elms, inter-
i^persed with beech, spruce, and other coniferous trees,
which had witnessed, perhaps the destructive march of
insurgent bands, during the many rebellions and sedi-
tious movements which had laid waste the lan;i tVp so
~ many generations, and drove trade and commerce from
our ill-fated country; now, threw out their gnai'led
limbs, to shelter and protect from the ^ntry blast i

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BIVKR 8HANN0H.

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herds of wild deer, or other animals, and game of 4V«ry
description, with which these forests abound. In some
places the trees were intermingled with copsewood of
various descriptions, so closely as to partially intercept
the scorching rays of the summer sun ; in others they
receded from each other, forming those long sweeping
'vittas, in the intiicacy of which the eye delights to lose
itself, while imagination fancies them as the path to yet
['wilder prospects of sylvan solitude. This natural pictur-
esque scenery which partly circumscribed this bay, where
numerous small boats glide swiftly through its tranquil
water, which reflected from its crystal bosom the sur-
rounding objects, or, the shimmering rays of a declining
moon that struggled feebly in a western sky, reflecting
a pillar of silvery light as it yields supremacy to the
m3rriads of bright stars that twinkled in a clear blue sky.
While the reverberation of dulcet sounds from the harp,
or bagpipe, might be heard along the banks in the shades
of evening, as small excursion parties in pleasure boats,
enjoy the salubrious and exhilarating air, by a row on
the placid waters. This acquisition afforded ample facil-
ity to the surrounding neis^hbourhood for fishing, boating
and swimming during the summer and autumn seasons.
Gentlemen from the surrounding counties were frequent-
ly invited to these favoured grounds by the owner,
Francis Nesbitt, Esq., during the shooting and fishing
season. Many a long day have I been out with them,
coming home tired, weary and footsore in the evening,
after traversing the woods all day with the sportsmen.

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?»»• •

MT StSTCRS GET MARRIEJ).

■jt

Yet those were the happiest days I have ever enjoytd
during the whole of my eventful life. \

My father and the hired man managed to sow an<]
gather in the produce of the small but productive farm.
My sisters and stepmother attended to the domestic duti^a,
I, b^ing the only son, was kept at school till about sixteen
years old, atler which I had to make myself useful arotind
the house and farm.

About this time my eldest sister was married. T^o
years afterwards my other sister took unto herself a
partner, for better, for worse ; but I fancy it was for the
better ; however, I never heard from them but once since
I left home.*

After those events our family dwindled down to threo^
viz. : my father, stepmother, and myself. In the even-
ings, a few other boys and myself were wont to ramble
from one neighbour's house to another alternately, for the
purpose of hearing the old people tell fairy tales and
' ghost stories. We frequently visited the potheen stilU
house, when it was in operation, to see the men making
and drinking whiskey, singing songs, and telling of won-
derful adventures with gangers, excisemen, and revenue
police. This distillery was situated about two miles in
a north-westerly direction from our residence. This part
of the country was very rugged and wild, but pictur-
esque. Although a portion of the same landscape, noth-
ing could be more strikingly distinct in character and
appearance thlEin the position of those hills. Some com-
posed of steep, barren rocks and deep chasms, while

•^TT^T^'V*

1^1

POTHEOff imLL-HOUSli

)ther8 wore undulating and clothed with verdute. They
kbrmed a splendid pasture-land for sheep. In approaching
^bese hills, you struck into a " Borheen " or lane which
)nducted you to the front of a steep precipice of rocks <
ibout fifty feet high. In the northern cover of this
ivine, there was an entrance to a subterraneous passage
^wenty feet long, which led to a large chamber or deep
ive, having every convenience for a place of private dis-
tillation. Under the rocks which met over it was a
:ind of gothic arch, and a stream of water, just sufficient
^or the requisite purpose, fell in through a fissure from
ibove, forming such a little cascade in the cavern as hu-
lan design itself could scarcely have surpassed in perfect
laptation for the object of an illicit distiller. To this
ive, then, we must take the liberty of transporting our
jentle reader, in order to give him an opportunity of
retting a peep at the inside of a potheen still-house.

In that end which constituted the termination of the
tave, and fixed upon a large turf fire which burned within a
jircle of stones that supported it, was a tolerably sized still
lade of copper. The mouth of this still was enclosed by an
dr-tight cover, also of copper, called the head, from which a
bube of the same metal projected into a large condenser
that was kept always filled with cold water, by an inces-
sant stream from the cascade I have already described,
I'hich always ran into and overflowed it. The arm of this ,
lead was made air-tight, fitting into a spiral tube ot
)pper, called the worm, which rested in the water of thb
)ler ; and as it consisted of several twists like a cork-

y\'i

POTHIEN STXIL-HOUfK

screw, its effect was to condense the hot vapour wKci
was transmitted to it from the glowing still into that de*
scription of alcohol known as potheen whiskey, or ** moun-
tain dew." At the bottom of the cooler the worm termin-
ated in a small cock, from which the spirits passed in a slen-
der stream about the thickness of a pipo-stom into a vessel
placed for its reception. Such was the position of the
still, head, and worm, when in full operation. Fixed
about the cave, upon wooden benches, wore the usual
requisites for the various processes through which it waa
accessary to put the malt before the wort, which is the
first liquid shape, was fermented, cleared and passed into
the still to tie singled; for our readers must know that
distillation is a double process, the first produce being
called singlings, and the second or last doublings — ^wbicb
, is the perfect liquor. Sacks of malt, empty barrels, pilei
of turf, heaps of grain, tubs of wash, kegs of whiskey, wen
lying about in all directions ; together with pots, paps,
wooden-trenchers, and dishes for culinary use. On enter^
ing, your nose was iissailed by such a fume of warm grainst
sour barm, and strong whiskey, as required considerable
fortitude to bear without very unequivocal tokens of
disgust. Seated around the fire were a party of shebeeD
men and three or four publicans, who came on professional
business. Many questions political and social were pro*
ptiunded and debated while the soul-stirring horn goblet
passed round, pledging their fidelity to each other and the
cause of illicit distillation. The ganger, revenue police^
and informer were depicted and denounced as traitors and i

k.St'-'jA''

PAUDEIM'S 8T0RT.

. • ih

enemies to their cause and country. Land-agents and
middle-men were ridiculed and stigmatized with the
appellation of blood-sucking hirelings.

" Comrades/' said Paudeen Rougha, smacking his lips,
bfter drinking healths apiece to his chums and confusion
to their enemies, one evening as they sat around the fire
with the still in full blast on the turf-fire, " did ye hear
the news ? **

** Musha no agra," answered Pete McQuirk, ** another
gauger kili;,* maybe, presarve the hearers."

** No in troth," said Paudeen, " but that upstart, Nick
Hogan of Clunathuskin, has been appointed gauger, vice
Jim Nulty, who wor found dhroundedin Jerry McQool-
dnck's bog-hole, shure the Coroner's jury brought a verdict
of found dhrounded, d'ye persave ? "

"Och ! hone ! then Pat agra, for the sake of poor Jerry,
is it the thruth yer spakin'," queried Pete, " shure I'm
80 anxious regardin' Jerry an' his ould mother, ye think
there's no suspicion av foul play, Pat asthore machree."

" Och ! divil a taste," replied Paudeen, " who can tell
but that he fell in accidently himself, and I'll be yer bail
there*s no informer acquainted wid Jerry's little secret
d'ye persave."

" Well," said Pete, " that makes me aisy in me mind re-
fifardin' Jerry any how, what would his ould mother do if
anything happened him? But," continued Pete, "he
shouldn't have drounded the ould gauger all out, shure a
good duckin' would have been plenty for him. * Shure it
wor better to deal with the divil ye know than the divil

i •:1

«1

■1

paudkin's stort.

7on don't know/ Who knows what sort av Sassenach
this newfang^lcd ganger '11 make any how." ^

" Faith," said Paudeen, " af he follows in his father's
footsteps we can't expect much from him ; for his father
had to fly the counthry through shame and disgrace in
regard av a thrick played an him by Shamus the high-
wayman." ^

'* Arrah musha Paudeen," said Pete, ** tell us about that
same, shure it'll shorten the night.

" Well, aisy awhile, comrades," said Paudeen, "an I'll be
after doin' that same. But, afore I start wid the story
pass round the horn till I wet my whistle."

" All right ihe boy, here's a goUogue, dlirink this dhrop
of the real Innishone, look at the bade that's on it," was
the response. '^

After gulping down the contents oi the goblet, and
wiping his lips with the cuff of his coat, Paudeen moved
his stool away from the fire, with his back to the wall
and commenced.

" Well, ye all knew ould Squire Hogan, who mouM out
aU his property 'cept the homestead which he left to his
hopeful son Nick, and fled the counthry no one knows
where."

" Yes, yes, Paudeen, go on," was the answer.
\ " Well, af ye do, well an' good," said Paudeen. " Ould
Billy O'Leary (whom ye all know was a little gone in the
upper story, wor a poor, but honest man, rest his soul,
he's now dead an' gone)» rented a small houldin' from the
Squire. Well, af he did well an' good. Af ther he had

FAUBinri noBT.

8e«ded down his own small farm, the Squire gave hhn
employment round tlie bi^if house, in ordher to enable
him to pay the rent by an odd day's work, d'ye persave^
His son, young Shamus (now the terror of the hills) had
the run av the big house on account av his father workin'
there. But that wouldn't satisfy the young scapegrace,
but he must steal the ould Squire's silver spoona At
last, afther many valuable articles had been missed,
a trap wor laid to catch the thief. When young Shamus
wur caught in the act av stealin' a silver spoon which
wor found in his pocket as he wor leavin' the house, the
Squire would have the thief transported, only for his poor
father who begged him off, on conditions that he would
bind him to « thrade where he'd be kept under the eye av
his masther.

" ' What thrade'U I send liim to lam, ycr honour,' said
Billy.

"'Oh!' replied the Squire, wid a grin, 'I think a
highwayman would suit him best'

« « Very well, yer honour,' leplied Billy, as innocent .as ye
plase.

" Next morning the ould man, accompanied by his son
started off in search of a masther. They had not gone far
before they met a respectably dressed gentleman.

" * Where are ye goin* with the " gossoon," * queried the
stranger ? , >

" ' Och ! yer honour,' replied Billy, * I'm in search av
a masther that I may bind me rod t.<» a thrade."

"'What thrade d'ye wisl» iiim U) lai-u T'

■>?t*

, il

paudeen's story.

L' /

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"'Faith, to a highwayman, to be sure, cordin* to the
Squire's ordhers.' replied Billy. ^ m

" * Well, I'm your man then,* said the stranger, * I can
bache him that purfession, I'll warrant ye.*

" * All right yer honour,' said Billy, ' Shure it's lucky
that I am to meet sich a gintleman as yerself.* Shamua
wor there an' then bound an* handed over to the stran^r
by the innocent parent, who returned home satisfied that
he had done his duty towards his offspring.

" * Well, Billy,* said the Squire next morning, * Whaj
have you done v/ith your son ? '

** * Oh ! bedad, what ye tould me, yer honour.'

" * What 1 'bind him to a highwayman ? '

" * Yes, in throth yer honour,* said Billy, ' Shure it's
lucky enough I wor in meetin* a dacent gintleman as 1
crassed the mountam, who said he could tache him! that
same thrade.*

*' * It's to be hoped he will, an' stick to him too,* chuck<
led the Squire with a broad grin, as he turned on hia
heels an' walked off well pleased at havin' Shamua
banished (as he thought) for ever. Two years rouled on
an' nothin' wor heard av the young apprentice. Durin'
the interval, how^ever, Shamus waxed strong and be-
came a proficient in his profession, under the able in-
struction of the ould boy himself and his accomplices
One night the robbers went to rob the ould Squire's
house. They lowered Shamus down the chimney in a
Back by a rope, with instructions to collect all silver
plate, money and valuables he could lay his hands on and

ii''

'*;^,V>^.H'"

v/va

PAUDlSkN'S STORT.

pack them in a sack. This Shamus cleverly acedm-
plished, when the robbers drew up the sack, and hearing
a noise among the inmates, fled in great haste with the
booty, leavin' behind the young apprentice, who findin*
that his accomplices had decamped an' left him in the
lurch, turned his past experience to his profit by searchin'
round the kitchen, an* findin' the hide of a young steer
which had been killed the day before, wrapped it around
him with the "horns stickin*^ up, an' a broomstick in his
hand to personify one of the spirits from the lower re-
gions. He then rattled round with the broomstick among
the pots, kettles and crockery, makin' an unearthly up-
roar in the dead of the night, howlin' like a demon the
while, which greatly alarmed the household, who thought
the house was haunted. Jack, the coachman, more valiant
than any of the other domestics, mustered courage enough
to step forward, an' makin' the sign av the cross, questioned
the apparition by askin', ' What is there troublin' ye on
this earth ? ' Shamus, who was a ventriloquist, answered
in a sepulchral tone :

"'I'll destroy this house an' all the people therein, if ye
don't let me out afore the high hour of twelve.' ^This
alarmed the ould Squire, who, accompanied by Jack the
coachman, with fear and tremblin' tottered to the door,
an' managed to unlock it, when the spectre tore out the
door with a horrible noise, tossin' the furniture an' utin-
sils about with the horns, as he made his exit. He then
made his way to the robbers' cave. Bein' well acquainted
with the intricacies of the route, he soon accomplished

,^11

-/•I

PAUDEEN'S STORY.

the toiiuous journey, an' approached cautiously to the
sniall windx>w in the rock, where he peeped in an' beheld
his accomplices sittin' at a table countin' an' dividin' the
spoil, when he wrapped the hide (which he still retained)
around him, an' shoved his head an' horns in through the
window, howlin' demoniac ejaculations, as of some evil
genii who had overtaken the highwaymen in the midst
of their villany. The robbers on seein' the horns pro-
trude through the window, an' hearin' the unearthly bel-
lowin', thought some messenger from the infernal regions
had come to seize them, started for the door in a terrible
fright, an' ran off leavin' all the stolen property behind.
Shamus then entered the cave, packed all the booty in
sacks, which he placed on two of the Horses' backs, mount-
ed the third himself, leadin' the others after him, rodt
home to his father's house, where he stowed away the
stolen treasure, an' put the horses in the stable. He
wasn't many days at home when the Squire heard of hii
ratum, an' sent for the ould man.

** * What brought yer son home, Billy ? ' said he. ' Has
he ran away from his masther — eh ? *

" * No, in troth yer honour ; but he has larned his thrade |
entirely, he tells me.'
* " Oh ! he has, eh ; well, we shall see.* was the rejoinder. I
* Tell him unless he can steal the horses from before the
plough to-morrow, while workin' in the field, I shall not
be convinced that he has not ran away from his mastei
before he became proficient in his callin', and that I1|{
have him transported.'

♦ A "\?

PAUDEEN S STORY.

" Billy returned to his cabin with tears in his eyes, ah*
informed the son of what the Squire had said.

" 'All right, father/ was the answer, ' ye needn't be
afraid ; if I couldn't perform that task I'd be a poor high-
wayman.'

" This answer gave the old man great confidence in his
hopeful son.

" Next morning Shamus, by some means best known to
himself, secured two young rabbits, which he secreted in
a bag. Then he proceeded to some shrubs ad joinin' the
field where the men were ploughin', concealin' himself
among the bushes. As the men approached the end of
the field, he let go one rabbit, which the ploughman at
once detected, an' gave chase. * Come along, Dick,' ex-
claimed one of the men, 'I always thought the place was
alive with rabbits.'

" Shamus then let go another, which confirmed their
apprehension. Away they ran after the rabbits through
the thick of the wood. In the meantime Shamus un*
hitched the team f'-om the plough, jumped on one, an*
rode off in haste towards his father's house, where he
concealed the horses. The ploughmen, not findin' any
more game, returned to their plough, but the horses were
gone. This alarmed them greatly. Their surmises as to
what became of their team were futile. So they fell back
on the farm-yard, at the gate of which they met the old
Squire.

" ' What's the matther, boys ? ' said the latter, seein' the
labourers so excited.

■^

lit;''

PAUDEEN S STOBT.

" ' Bedad, , your honour, there*s enough the matter,\ was
the rejoinder. '* Shure enough, we've lost our team, some
thafe has bin an' gone an' stole them while we gave chase
to this pair av r Abbits, which, ye see, we have captured
intirely.*

" * Oh, ye go rabbit-catchin' instead of attendin* to yer
business ? Ye had better go and find your horses at
once,' said the Squire, walking off in a great rage, mut-
terin' some hard words about that villain Shamus. ' Billy,'
said he to the old man, whom he met in the yard, 'I see
that your hopeful son has stolen the horses clever enough.
But that does pot prove that he is an accomplished thief.
Tell him from me that unless he can steal the Steed of
Bells, over which two men, with loaded revolvers in their
hands, keep guard in the stable durin' the night, I shall
have him tn»,nsported."

" The ould man went home with a sad heart, an' deliv-
ered the Squire's message to his son.*

" * Oh, father,' said he, ' is that all. Don't be the laste
alarmed ; I can asily perform that task.'

" During the day Shamus possessed himself av a couple
av bottles av rale ould potheen, which he carried in his
overcoat pockets, an' repaired to the Squire's yard about
twelve o'clock that night. Takin' up his position on the
heap of manure outside the stable window, where he gave
a lucid demonstration of being blind dhrunk.

" The two men on guard over the steed, hearin' the noise
went out, an' findin' a man apparently dhrunk with two
Ijottles av potheen in his pocket*, naturally enough carried

paudeen's stort.

■ i>-

him into the stable out av the cowM. Strotchin' hull on.
some straw they helped themselves to the whiskey. Be-
fore they had one bottle finished, they were stretched full
length on the floor; where their nasal organs belched
forth such inharmonious sounds as to indicate very per-
ceptibly that their owners were in the land av dhrames.
Shamus then tied their hands an' feet, walked the steed
out quietly, jumped on his back an' rode hastily to his
father's house, where he secured tlie steed undher lock
an' key. Next momin' the Squire demanded from the
two men an account of their vigilance ; an' hearin' that
they had slept on their post while the steed was stolen,
discharged them from his service.

" * Billy,* said he to the ould man, who was employed
clearin' up the yard, I see that your son has stolen the
• Steed of Bells * in a professional manner, but that does
Qot quite satisfy me that he is a thoroughly accomplished
thief. Unless he can steal the sheets from off my bed
to-night, an' I between them, with two loaded revolvers
beside me on the table, an' a lamp burnin' in my room all
Qight, I sh^ll have him transported. But if he accomplishes
this theft I shall forgive him all his villany.' The ould
man,in despair, went home an' informed his son of the trial,
of skill imposed by the Squire before he should be forgiven,
Whereupon Shamus made answer. Well, I'm thinkin
that the ould Squire is determined to put an end to me
himself at long run be hook or be crook. But don't be a bit
Beared, dad.' Durin* the day Shamus had concocted his
plans, an' made preparations for the qomin* event, in which

v:i

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1 '/*■;!

^'*^l>.>i

■' >Vii

■ -".'if

t'lS

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?f^.;'^^

rAUDEEN'S STOBT.

h« was to be the principal actor. Havin' learned thai 4
young man had been buried the previous day, he proceeded
to the cemetery in •rder to exhume the body. On nearin'
the gate be dismounted an' tied his horse in a shady
nook, he then advanced cautiously in search of the newly
made grave. As he approached it, he heard a noiso qn'
saw two men movin' about ; when he took post behind
a tombstone au' watched their movements. He saw
them open the grave an' lift the corpse, which they
dumped into a sack. It then struck him that they were
medical students, who wanted a subject for dissection.
When he set up behind the tombstone a horrible sepul-
chral noise, which struck terror into the body-snatchers,
who dropped the corpse which they wor crrryin' away
an* ran off as if the ould boy himself wor afther them.
Shamus then placed the corpse on his horse, mounted an'
rode home, wheie he dressed the body in a suit av his
own clothes, Then he proceeded to the Squire s house in
the dead of night, with the corpse on his back, mounted
to the top of the house by means of a ladder placed there
as a fire escape ; an' lowered the corpse down thb chimney
by means av a rope with a slip-knot. The Squire hearin'
the noise in the chimney, made sure that Shamus had
selected that stratagem to gain access to his room, for
the purpose of carryin' off the sheets. He jumped up
in the bed an' said to his wife, as he seized an' cocked
the revolver, ' I've got the young villain in my power at
last, an* will put a stop to his thavin', I'll warrant ye.'
There he sat^ with the seven-shooter cocked, waitin' for

-.v^

PAUDEEN B 8T0RT.

Shamus to make his appearance. He had not long to
wait, for Shamus anticipatin' his intentions, let the corpse
down suddenly, when bang went the revolver, an* down
fell the body of the supposed thafe. The Squire beiievin'
that he had sliot Shamus, took the corpse on his back an'
started off to bury it in the comer of a field. Ue was
accompanied by his wife who led the way wid a dark
lanthern in her hand. As they proceeded to inter thf>
body they were observed an' watched by two still-
hunthers, who wor in sarch av an illicit still, of which
they had information was in active operation on that
same night. They saw the ould Squire dump the body
into the grave which it seems he had previously prepared;
while his betther-half threw light on the subject by her
presence, an' the glimmer from the dark lanthern which
she held in her hand ; when the peelers pounced upon
them an' carried the pair off without ceremony to the
lock-up, where they had to snivel in a cold cell until
momin*. This incident brought the Squire an' his wife
into untold disgrace. They wor tried for the mnrdher av
the unknown youn^ man ; but, ye know the ould sayin'*
' what's the use av goin* to law wid the divil, when the

court is held in -* ye know where. But anyhow,

through some lack av evidence an' the influence brought
to bear on the judge an' jury in their behalf by some ol
the Squire's ould pals, the pair got off scot free, but had
to fly the counthry through shame, lavin' the homestead
to their hopeful son, whom I have already tould ye wor
appointed ganger in the place av ould Jitn Nulty, who wor
found dhrounded in a bog hole ; oh, divil a lie in it

: '■■!•

i . ' :

.>■:■,-

:^;

paudeen's itobt.

" Afther the Squire an' his wife started off for to ii^ter
the hody, Shamus entered the house an' made his way to
the ould SquireV bedroom, divested the bed av the sheets,
helped himself to a gallogue or two av the Squire's best
potheen, which he found in a bottle on the table by the
bedside. He then left the house, mounted his horse,
which he had secured in a convenient place, an' rode to his
father's cabin. Next momin' on hearin' that the Squire

an' his betther half wor caught by the peelers, while in
the act av burying the corpse, an' knowin full well that he
would be involved in the traged}', he fled to the mountains
where he took , refuge like a fox from that day to this in
some den or unknown cave where the peelers could never
unearth him. Beward afther reward has bin offered time
an' agin for his capture, or such information as would
lead to his arrest. But no mortal man can ever find out
bis hidin' place. Though a terror to the fat graziers, an'
great nobleman or agents who may cross his path unac-
companied by a posse of peelers, yet Shamus is well loiked
by the destitute of the neighbourhood, for he robs the
rich aj}' helps the poor. Many a distressed widow an'
orphan he has relieved by his liberality, an' many a rich
man he has victimized between here an' Chlunathuskin,
divil a lie in it." Paudeen stood up, buttoned his coat
preparatory to going home as he had finished the story.

" Well now Paudeen," said Pete, as he filled the horn
goblet from a faucet close to his elbow, after the story was
ended and handed it to Paudeen, " that wor a fine story
entoirely, and wel* tould, be me soul I think ye must be

.VvJ

.VV.l

V. -

''f,:X-(. ^'

THE SHEBEEN MEN.

t : 'i|

dhry, just be afther wettin' yer whistle wid this weeney
dhrop afore ye sthart for home, sure it'll keep out the
could an' shorten the journey."

Paudeen took the horn with a "thankee Pete/^ and
tossed of its contents, wiped his mouth with' the cuff of
his coat, pulled his caubeen over his ears, and bid the
company good-night.

" Aisy a while, Paudeen," said Pete, with a knowing
wink handing him a black bottle, " take this home wid
ye, sure a dhrop av the blessed spirits is lucky to have
about ye, such a could dark night as this, take it gra
sure I know in the mornin* ye'll be afther wantin' a haii
from the dog that bit ye, d'ye mind."

" Musha then, now Pete," said Paudeen, with a broad
grin, as he took the proffered bottle and placed it care-
fully in his big frieze coat pocket, which he buttoned up,
" faith kind father an* mother for ye to be good natured,
sure 'tis they who never sent anyone from their house
dhry an* hungry or empty handed, rest their souls."

" Paudeen,** said one of the other shebeen-men, " *udn*t
ye be afther waitin* fur betther company nar yerself , sure
we'll be wid ye as far as the cross-roads anyhow."

" Betther company nar meself, did ye say ? faith I'm
ihinkin* av the peelers meets ye wid them kegs of poth-
een on yer backs ye won't be considered very good com-
pany for any dacent man in the morain*. So fur feer
Fud be reckoned as one av the gang, I'ud prefur goin*
alone be meself, d'ye persave. Good night CQmradeSj**
said Paudeen as he made his e^at,

.1 ='i

i."!

I .

■*•>;

REVEMU£ FOUOK OR ** STILL BUNTERS.

l/~-

Pete then £lled the publicans' kegs with potheen, placed
hem in creels, which were then filled up with dry turf, ai
a blind for the peelers, helf^ed to place the creels on liii
customers' backs and pocketed the price of his whiskey.
The shebeen men then departed with their stock in trad«
on their backs, and proceeded to their respective shebeet
houses, where they vended the soul-stirring element, at a
profitable remuneration, to their numerous thirsty cus*
tomers. The above is a specimen, and one of the many
stories told during the winter evenings by the men who
frequent these places.

la order to e>\'ade the vigilance of the " Revenue Police"
or, as they were called, " Still Hunters," the smoke, which
passed through a hole in the roof, came up in a pasture*
field. On the top of this hole was fitted a wide flag,
made to shift at will. On the top of this flag was kept
a turf fire, in charge of a boy who herded sheep and
goats. When the boy saw the police advancing towards
the fire, he would shift tho flag over the hole. The police
frequently came, lit their pipes, then walked off, and sus-
pected nothing. The boy then shifted back the flag in
order to let the smoke escape. In this way the specula-
tor escaped detection.

Several illicit stills .flourished in this part of the coun-
try, which I frequently visited during the winter even-
ings. I often accompanied parties who went there for
the purpose of purchasmg whiskey during the festive
reasons, or when a dance or a marriage was about to take
\ lace. Whisk(\v was sure to be the most plentiful bever-

OUSTOMS or TBB PEASANTS.

age on these occasions, and the parties interested always
endeavoured to secure a plentiful supply of the needful
to enliven their guests, and keep their spirits up by pour-
ing spirits down. The boys and girls always expected a
big time for fun and frolic. These occasions were there-
fore looked forward to as a kind of pleasurable occurrence^
to the rising generation, than which 1 thought could not
be equalled in any country in the world.

Oh I how silly young people are, and how easily led
away by the allurements of gay pleasures from the paths
of rectitnde, which would eventually guide them on the
straight road to honour, wealth, fame and glory. But it
is needless in thus describing the customs and habits of
the peasants, as it would take up too much space, and
defeat my object in laying the history of my life and
travels before my readers.

I ri

\ vi;

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* \

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<. »

I'N

CHAPTER IIL

ADTAKOVD BOBOOL — STATE OTTHB COUNTRY— EM 10 RATION— QA178B 01
POVERTY — IRIHH LANDLORDS — POTATO CROP — DISHONEST AOENTE—
BLBOTION — POLITICS— I ENLIST — THE BEOROITINO SERGEANT— 'MY
KATTVB LAND,

BOUT tihe time this chapter opens I had been re-
moved from the country school (which has been
already described in the first chapter), and sent to a much
more advanced and better school in the town of Dromod>
County Leitrim. I continued at this school about four
years, during which time I waxed strong in mind, strength
and learning.

\Xi the meantime the state of the country gradually
assumed a worse and more depressing character. Indeed,
at this period of my narrative, the position of Ireland
was very gloomy. Situated as the country was, emigra-
tion went forward on an extensive scale — emigration, too,
of that particular description which every day enfeebles
and empoverishes the country by depriving her of all that
approaches to anything like a comfortable and independ-
ent yeomanry. This, indeed, is a kind of depletion, which
no country can bear long ; and, as it is, at the moment

'^'^-'^•d..

'»TTT" r.^

.-* i»-vi.tL-<

'•*r " ■.'.'P'r

EMIGRATION — CAUSE OF POVBRTT.

I write this, progressing at a rate beyond all precedent,
it will not, I trust, be altogether unintei^«ting to enquire
into some of the causes that have occasioned it. Of
course, the principal cause of emigration is the poverty
and the depressed state of the country, wages often being
as low as eight-pence a day, and it follows naturally that
whatever occasions our poverty will necessarily occasion
emigration. The first cause of our poverty then is
" absenteeism." I mean the landlords, who draw over six
million pounds stg., from their poor but hard-working
and honest tenants ; then spend it in London, or on the
continent of Europe, or other foreign countries, rather
than in their own, thereby depriving our people of employ-
ment and means of life to that amount. The next is the
general inattention of Irish landlords to the state and
condition of their property, and an inexcusable want of
sympathy with their tenantry, which indeed, is only a
corollary from the former, for it can hardly be expected
that those who wilfully neglect themselves will feel a
warm interest in others. Political corruption, in the
shape of the forty shilling franchise, was another cause,
and one of the very worst, which led to the prostration
of the country by poverty and moral degradation, and
for this proprietors of the land were solely responsible.
Nor can the loss of the potato crop, as the staple food of
the labouring classes, in connection with the truck or credit
system, and the consequent absence of money payments
— in addition to the necessary ignorance of domestic and
social comforts that resulted — ^be left out of this wretched

-r\

►y-v.

IRISH LANDLORDS.

catalogue of our grievances. Another cause of emigration
is to be found in the high and exorbitant rents at which
land is held by all classes of farmers — with some except*
ions, such as in the cases of old leases — ^but especially bj
those who hold under middlemen, or on the principle of
subletting generally. By this system a vast deal of
distress and petty but most harassing oppression is
every day in active operation, which the head landlord
can never know, and for which he is in no other way
responsible than by want of knowledge of his estates.

There are still causes, however, which too frequently
drive the independent farmer out of the country. In too
many cases it happens that the rapacity and dishonesty
of the agent, countenanced or stimulated by the necessities
and reckless extravagance of the landlord, fall like some
onWholesome blight upon that enterprise and industry
which would ultimately, if properly encoui-aged, make
the country prosperous, and her landed proprietors in-
dependent men. I allude to the nefarious and monstrous
custom of ejecting tenants who have made improvements,
or, when permitted to remain, make them pay for the
improvements which they themselves have made.
! A vast proportion of this crying and oppressive evil must
be laid directly to the charge of those who fill the respon-
sible situation of landlords and agents to the property in
Ireland, than whom in general there does not exist a
more unscrupulous, oppressive, arrogant, and dishonest
class of men. Exceptions, of course, there are, and many,
^ut speaking of them as a body, I unhappily assort

ELECTION pounca.

'■>^

nothing but what the conditions of property, and of thbse
who live upon it, do at this moment and have for many
years testified.

I have already stated, that there was a partial failure
in the potato crop that season, a circumstance which
ever is the forerunner of famine and sickness. The fail-
ure, however, on that occasion, was not alone caused by
a blight in the stalks, but large portions of the seecl ^
failed to ffrow. In addition, however, to all L have al-
ready detailed as affecting the neighbourhood or, rather,
the parish of Anaduff, I have to inform ihy gentle reader
that the country was soon about to have a contested
election.

Viscount Clement and Samuel White, Esq., were the
opposing candidates. The* former had been a convert to
Liberalism, and the latter a sturdy Conservative, a good
deal bigoted in politics, but possessing that rare and ines-
timable quality which conslitutes an honest man. It
was a hard contested election. The electors throughout
the country were driven to the town on side-cars, escorted
by police. The excitement was fearful. However, the
people's candidate (Mr. White) gained the election. There
was a large aTuount of whiskey drank during this elec- \
j tion, and as a consequence there was plenty of fighting*

About this time there was great excitement among the
I young people, consequent on the encouragement of emi-
gration to America and Canada. Many young men and
maidens embraced the favourable opportunity of emigrat-
ing from the neighbourhood in which I lived. £ut,8ome«

.'■'is

N-

^ i ■

'I'M

«iJi

m^:'.

-A

r».'"- /

;a '

ir'

A BEpBXTITINa PIRTT.

hdw, I could never entertain the idea of emigrating, al*
though I had very frequently heard many most favpura*
ble reports from both countries. I decided, instead, that I
would prefer tO join the army, and fight for the honour
and glory of my Queen aud country.
< I had frequently seen splendid, tall, well proportioned,
brave looking soldiers, gaily dressed, marching past our
house, with their band in front of the regiment, discours-
ing sweet music, which thrilled my soul with a feeling of
enchantment. I invariably accompanied them for several
miles, keeping step with the men, who marched tc the
time of the music I was so infatuated with the music,
the noble bei^ring and martial appearance of the officers
and men, that I could scarcely resist the temptation of
following them all day. I thei) made up my mind to en-
list for a soldier. With this intention I went to the, fair
of Mohill, on the 8th of May, 1847.

On arriving at the principal street o^ the town, my at-
tention was directed to a crowd collected around a recruit-
ing party — a tall sergeant of most prepossessing appear-
ance, gaily-dressed in the scarlet uniform of the Grena-
diers. From his neat, jaunty little forage cap, which sat
on three hairs, a bunch of gay coloured ribbons floated in
the air, and his slung, brass-mounted, polished sword
•dangled against his heels. The corporal and privates also
were tall and well proportioned young fellows and dressed
like the sergeant, only not quite so expensively. Proudly
did they march through the streets, gay and independent
as the Roman warriors of old. The gallant sergeant with

*. .>•>

,'/ "* •

THE BBCBUrriNa SERGSANT.

his penetrating eye and determined countenance, softened
with a cheerful look and pleasant smile, winning admira-
tion as he glanced upwards at the windows filled with
handsome young maidens and children, who looked on
from their elevated position in wonder and amazement at
the noble specimens of the British army.

"Halt!" cried the sei'geant in a commanding tone,
which instinctively brought the party to a stand-still
in the middle of the street, where the sergeant gave a
vivid picture of military life, of its good pay, splendid
uniforms, fii^t class rations, and noble pension on dis-
charge. ^ hr (speaking of campaigns, battle-fields, long
marches, the o. r 'n hope, and the hard vicissitudes 6!
military life, he declaimed like one who know something
of the terrible drama of war and all its horrors, in which
soldiers are the principal actors. " I want able-bodied
men," continued the sergeant, "of fine limb and martial
aspect, from five feet eight upwards, and not over thirty
years of age ; with good characters, and free from any
disease, blemish, or impediment ; fit to work al a fortress,
throw up trenches, haul big guns into position, with
I courage enough to mount the scaling ladders, or charge
through a breach or embrasure when storming a fort or
I citadel, fight single handed with the Indians, capture the
sword of the Czar or, the Great Mogul, himself, when
called on to do so. I want no lubbers, mind, but gallant
fellows with strength, heroic minds and endurance, ready
to volunteer for the greatest danger, or go anywhere,
to freeze to death in Siberia, or to simmer on the bum-

-:-*.H

• -4 .

THE BECBUITINQ SERGEANT.

J i

y '

inff sands of Arabia." Then followed an oration about
glory, blood-money, prize-money and beer-money; mddals
and commissions, which was wound up with an exciting
invitation to all the young fellows around to join him.

*^Now boys who'll enlist for this and a great deal
more. You'll get double pay, double clothing, tools for
nothing, superior bedding of long feathers, and three
square meals a day, two holidays a week, a pair of trou-
sers and ammunitions a year.

" You'll be taught everything in the army, and made
as straight as a tent pole. The humps will be taken of!
your backs by a pair of loaded clubs, which you'll swing
for an hour every morning before breakfast, in order to
sharpen your appetite for the enjoyment of that lux-
urious meal. You'll be taught to turn properly on your
heels and toes, and to stand as stiff as starch. You'll be
taught the march of intellect and several other useful
steps. The goose step, the balance step, the front step,
the back step, the side step, the closing step, the long
step, and the short step, the quick step and the slow
step, the running step, d,nd the jumping-step, to step
before the commanding officer if you misbehave, r.nd from
there to step into the black-hole if you don't act as be-
cometh a soldier and a gentleman. Now boys, I am ready
to enlist as many as like on the conditions specified, and
treat you as gentlemen. There is no compulsion, mind,
you must all be free and willing. Remember that the
corps I am enlisting for are among the bravest and most
honourable in the Service, with the best officers in the

»<<

2 t\lr^Jl

,..,., /.■*

v..

THE MOBLE PROFESSION.

ri-'^

British Army. I have H. M. commission to enliflt for
the 17th Regiment 'Royal JBengal Tigers' commoiily
called ' Lily Whites/ the 6th Enniskillen Dragoons and
the 33rd, the 'Iron Duke's' old regiment, which distin-
guished itself in Holland while commanded by then
Colonel Wellesley and Qeneral Dundas. Now gentlemen,
select your choice corps, Fcmt young fellows who can do
nothing better, it is a noble profession, it creates ambi-
tion, gives occasion for distinction, and leads through duty
and valour to promotion and honour. Heroes are not
found among peasants, but in the army rustics may
achieve fame. For such young men as you, the service
is the proper place, where you can make a fortune in a
few years, and mayhap win your swords and spurs, as
many a noble fellow has done before. A^o knows but
through your own distinguished conduct you may obtain
the exalted title Rajah of India or Pasha in the Turkish
contingent. Hurrah ! hurrah I "

The Queen was cheered and blest, and the sergeant was
besieged by applicants ready to take the Queen's shilling.
After he had performed the solemn ceremony of enlisting
a half dozen country fellows, I myself stepped boldly up
and said, " Sergeant, I wish to enlist in the 17th Regi-
ment."

" Bravo," shouted the sergeant, "you are just the young
lad I want for that gallant regiment. Upon my reputation
there is not a gentleman in the three kingdoms does me
greater honour than yourself by selecting the 'Royal
Bengal Tigers' for your future career. I have not the

I . , ''.

. .''.f\

~l?Ku

:!'f(,o

•3p/"'

I "TAKE THE 'SHILLING."

slightest doubt but you will attain the highest rung iij
the ladder of promotion, or the scaling ladder."

He then told me to hold out my hand and answei J
the following questions, viz: "Are you free, willing j
and able to serve H. M. Queen Victoria, her heirs and suC'
cessors, for a period of twenty-one years, or until you are!
legally discharged." I answered, I am. The ceremony
customary on such occasions was then gone through in a
manner that did credit to the sergeant. The significant]
shilling was placed in my hand in the name of the Queen,
binding me irrevocably to H. M.'s service, and a factor oi
the 17th Rclgiment. The ribbons were affixed to my hat
by the gallant sergeant, who marched myself and sis
others before the doctor, who approved of our personal
appearance. I have had no cause ever since to regret {
. joining H. M.'s service.

MY OWN, MY NATIVE LAND.

I' / I

" Where'er I roam, whatever realms to see,
My heart untravelled fondly turns to thee;
Such is the patriot's boast where'er we roam,
His first, best country, ever is at home.
And trembling, shrinking from tlie spoiler's hand,
Far, far away thy children leave the land.
Ill fares the land, to hastening ills a prey.
Where wealth accumulates, and men decay:
Princes and lords may flourish, or may fade ;
A breath can make them, as a breath has made ;

.V'-^itel

Ai-rr

MT OWN. MT NATITB LANa

/'
But A bold peMan^jy, tht»ir oountry'i pride,

Whenonoe destroyed, can never be supplied.

A time^here wu, ere Ireland's griefs began,

When every rood ox ground maintained I'm min ;

For him light labour spread her wholesome store,

Jnst jgave what life required, but gave no more ;

His best companions, innocence and health;

And his best riches, ignorance of wealth.

i^he broken soldier kindly bade to stay.

Sat by his fire, and talked the night away ;

Wept o'er his wounds, or tales of sorrow done,

flUiouldered his staff and showed how fields were wou."

/■■'«

./a

i?'^

'11

■\

CHAPTER IV.

i&.

iWEARINO IV — MARCH TO DUBLIN— SKROBANX'S 8T0RY — ARRITAL 1*
DHBT-iy — BBOOARS' BUSH BARRACKS — RATIONS — THB CITT---BM-
BARKATION— THE SHIP— THB VOYAOB — LIVERPOOL — ^TRAIN TO
LONDON — BILLETS- CANTERBURY— JOIN THB 17tH REGIMENT.

[HE sergeant conducted me to the rendezvous, where
I was obliged to pass another medical examination,
an<i was returned " fit for Her Majesty's service." He
then ushered me into a room in which were five more
brothers-in-arras. Next morning at ten o'clock, I was
taken before a magistrate and swom-in, after which I
received a half-crown, called " swotiring-in money." My
sister and stepmother hearing I had enlisted came after
me the following day, and tried hard to get me ofif, but
the sergeant would not hear of it, and I was unwilling,
for I had made up my mind to be a soldier. I was there-
fore anxious to get away from relations. My anxiety was
Boon realized, for next morning, after breakfast, we wt^re
on the road to Dublin, in charge of an old staff- sergeant,
the distance being one 'hundred and fifty miles, which we
accomplished in ten days, not including Sunday. During
the route the sergeant had shortened the jdiimoy

^^Mki

MABC^ TO DUBLIN.

considerably by the many thrilling stories which he toTcl
of the battles, sieges, long marches, and .hair-breadth
escapes in that memorable campaign of the Peninsular
war, where the " Black Watch " to which he belonged,
took an important part, and frequently distinguished
themselves by their n|any acts of bravery and dtvotion;
when the artillery of France, levelled with a precision of
the most deadly science, played upon them — when her
legions, incited by the voice, and inspired by the example
of their mighty leader, rushed again and again to the
onset.

Of the many battles which the sergeant described so
well, none had made such an impression on my mind as
his description of the battle of Waterloo, in which he was
an active participator. *

For the edification of my gentle reader I will endea-
vour to tell his story as nearly verbatim as my memory
will suggest. But the gallant sergeant being a Highland
Scotchman, and his dialect being so inspiring, I feel con-
fident that the story will lose much prestige and interest
by my transcribing it, since my orthography and vocabu-
lary fail to give expression to the sergeant's sentiments.
Before commencing the story he took a long pull froih his
canteen, which slung by a leather strap at his side. The
contents of which he did not make known, but from the
bouquet which assailed my olfactory nerves as he un-
corked the utensil, the perceptible smack of his lips, and
the satisfactory approval which his rubicund features
indicated' forcibly impressed me with the belief £hat the

■ ^^

'■ ■■ ■•^i

•■'I'V'l

THE STAFF-SERGfiANT's STORY.

canteen contained something more soul-stirring than
" Adam's Ate." After a pinch of snuff, one or two s: >ezeH,
and a couple of short coughs, to clear the throat, he
wiped the tears from his eyes with a red silk pocket>j
handkerchief and said :—

"On the morning of the 18th of June, 1815, when!
Napoleon had formed his line of battle, his brother
Jerome commanded on the left, Marshals Soult and Ney {
acted as Lieut-Generals to the Emperor.

"The French forces in the field consisted of 75,000 1
men. The British army did not exceed that number.
Each army Was commanded by the chief, under whom
they had offered to defy the world. So far as the chidts
were concerned they were iVBarly equal. The British!
army was formed into two lines. The cavalry was sta-
tioned in the rear, distributed along the line, but chiefly I
posted in rear of the centre. The whole British position
formed a sort of curve, the centre of which was nearest to
the enemy. The plans of the two great leaders were very
simple; the morning broke heavily; the whole day was
stormy. Soon after ten o'clock great agitation was seen
in the French lines ; mounted officers were seen galloping
with orders from Napoleon in various directions. Between
eleven and twelve the battle opened with a cannonade
from the French lines, followed by a fierce attack under
Jerome Buonaparte on the advanced post of Houguemont
A cloud of voltigeurs proceeded the column. The Nassau
soldiers in the wood were driven back by the French.
The assailants surrounded the house (Houguemont) on

-"'•- '1-

''\^^.^;

THS BATTLE OF WATERLOO.

three sides, and made desperate attempts to enter ; but a
detachment of British guards who occupied the villa, de-
fended it, and from the loop-holed walls of the house and
garden poured upon the French so severe a fire, that
bhe ground was covered with their killed and wounded.
" Fresh British troops were now sent to the relief of this
post ; and after great loss the Coldstream Guards drove
out the enemy and remained in possession. But, repeat-
ed attacks >vere from time to time made upon it ; but at
last the French were repulsed by the bayonet. Soon after,
the roof was on fire from the shblls of the French bat-
teries, but the combat was heroically maintained, and
from the chari'ed. walls deadly streams of musketry
poured fortii. Whi|e this carnage was going on the whole
of the French guns kept up an incessant fire upon the
British lines, whose guns powerfully replied, and the ad-
vanced batteries, firing with case shot, caused dreadful
havoc am(mg the French columns. Perceiving that the
assault on Houguemont had failed, Napoleon, under the
fire of big guns, ordered a formidable attack upon the
left centre. All the firmness and bravery of the British
were here required. The British regiments formed
squares. The distance between the battalions afibrddd
room enough to deploy into line, when they should be
ordered to do so. The appearance of the battalions when
thus formed resembled the alternate squares of a chess^
board, so that when a squadron of the enemy's cavalry
charged between these squares they were exposed at once
both to a fire in front from the squares in the rear, and to

" n

^ %

■^'■'i'i '"'''■^' '

i; ^

m^i

OHAROB OF THE CAVALRT.

volleys on both flanks from the side ones ; during th«
day the Franch cavalry often experienced the murderous
eflect of these combined fires. Ah the French column
came up, General Kempt boldly a'ivanced against it with
only three British regiments in line — ^and those weakened
by the loss of three hundred men in Quatre Bras — poured
in a volley and charged it ; while Peck's Brigade, from
the extreme left bore down at the same time upon the
right division of this column with the bayonet ; the
French who~had actually gMned the crest of the position
could not stand this, and after delivering their fire turned
and fled. It ,was here that Picton fell, a mu.sket ball
having passed through his brain. At this moment, too,
t^ie British cavalry made such an effective flank charge
upon the French columns at the tihie when they stag-
gered under the fire of the musketry, that they broke the
column with great slaughter, and took two eagles and
two hundred prisoners who were sent off to Brussels as
the first fruits of the British success. But, our cavalry
pushing their advantage too far, were met by a strong
body of cuirassiers on one flank and lancers on the other
— ^and having charged up to the enemy's guns, which
covered the attacking columns and cut down the gunners
— were involved in an unequal combat ; so that they
were forced to retire taking oflf an eagle as they did so,
which was dearly purchased by the death of their com-
mander. But his brigade avenged him so well that al-
most the whole Polish lancers were cut to pieces before
the day was over. Napoleon still persisted in obstinate

AN IMPETUOUS OKSLAUQBT.

attacks, and his infantry columns advanced supported by
a division of cuirassiers. Against these the British
brigade of heavy cavalry were led. Their meeting was
stem, a combat at sword points worthy of the days of
chivalry was kept up — the most desperate blows and
passes were exchanged, and notwithstanding the weight
and armour of the cuirassiers, the power of their hordes
and the bravery of their riders, they could not stand the
shock, but were ridden down in great numbers, Tt was
one •{ the fiercest and closest cavalry fights, perhaps e^er
seen ; and ended in several hundred of the French being
driven headlong over a deep gravel pit ; a confused mas*,
of men and horses exposed to a close fire which soon puL
a period to their sufiering. This impetuous onslaught
of the British cavalry caused the enemy to pause, but
only to rage with double ferocity by fresh squadrons.
Napoleon exhausted his energies in fierce attacks both of
horse and foot, supported by the whole strength of his
artillery, 200 guns keeping up a constant fire upon the
allied position. This fire was so destructive fchu' Welling-
ton directed his troops to retireibeyond the exposed ridge,
and lie down close on the ground, till on the near ad-
vance of the enemy's horse, they were ordered to stand up
in squares, advance, meet and repel their charge. The
French cavalry undaunted, repeatedly charged to the very
centre of the position — column after column, like the
waves of the sea — wj4ih vain and useless devotion. They
paid well for their bravery. As they came up deter-
mine! to sweep the square before them, their defeat,

: ■. .,j'*l

, '-'.vi

ft.,

THE CUIRASSIERS.

as they recoiled from the deadly vollies, resembled a
heavy sea pouring itself upon a chain of insulated ro^ks,
and then driven back. And amid all the tumult of that
desperate action, the discharge of the artillery, the clash
of arms, the shouts of the infuriated combatants, the
groans and shrieks of the wounded and dying, the British
remained cool and determined, their bravery shone with
the brightest lustre. In vain did desperate heroes among
French cavalry discharge their carbines and pistols at the
squares to induce them to break the ranks; they re-
garded but the actual charge, and waited for the word of
command to repel the squadrons by their musketry. In
vain did the cuirassiers ride round those serried walls of
steel, watching for an opening ; in vain did they cut and
thrust desperately at the men, or stand and gaze till shot
down. In vain did the most formidable artillery deal
destruction on the thinned squares : as the men dropped
down, their comrades closed up their places, and the
fronts remained unbroken. Never did the French make
more desperate efforts ; they prodigally courted destruct-
tion, and more than once did their cavalry seize for a
moment the British batteries on the brow of the position.
The cannons were never withdrawn, the horses only
were taken to the rear ; the gunners fired to the last
moment, and then, with their implements, took refuge in
the nearest squares ; and when the French were beaten
back, again hurried to their guns to discharge their con-
tents at the retiring foe. An incessant fire was kept up
fioii) the artilleiy, though it was little more than half the

>IT

THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON.

strength that Napoleon had; and its fonnidable ^is*
charges were supported well by the continuous rolling fire
kept up by the whole British line. Notwithstanding
this undaunted defence, the situation of our army was
becoming critical. Wellington had placed the best troops
in the front line; these had already suffered severely
and the quality of the foreign troops brought to support
them, proved unequal to the arduous task. The Duke
himself saw a Belgian regiment waver as it crossed the
ridge of the hill, and was advancing from the second to
the first line ; he rode up to them, halted the regiment,
and endeavoured to lead them into the fire himself ; but
all his efforts were in vain, and other troops had to be
brought up in their place. During the scene of tumult
and carnage, Wellington was everywhere, on account of
the position of the armies, and the nature of the ground.
There was scarcely a square which he did not visit, en-
couraging the men by his presence, and stimulating the
officers by directions. During the hostile charges, he
frequently threw himself into the nearest square for pro-
tection, and watched every movement and advance of the
enemy, piercing through the smoke of battle with an
eagle eye, and galloping to every point, however exposed,
if it seemed to require his presence. Many of his short
phrases addressed to his troops had a talismanic effect.
Distinguishable as he was by his suite, and the movements
of his staff, who went and came with orders; the buUeta
repeatedly striking close to him. * That's good practice,'
said he to one of his staff, ' I think the French fire better

'Ho

. K^^m

<;i.

.'.•■ il>-

* HARD POUNDIU } THIS.'

^..

than they did in Spain.' Riding up to the 95 th Regi<
ment, when in front of the line and threatened with a
formidable charge of cavalry, he said * stand fast 95th, we
must not be beaten — what will they say in England.'
On another occasion, when brave men were falling very
fast, he said, with cool confidence, ' Hard pounding this
but never mind boys, we'll win this battle yet, let us see
who will pound longest.* All who heard him issue orders,
received fresh confidence from his readiness, decision and
cool composure. His staff fell, man by man, beside him,
yet seemed in their own agony only to regard his safety
An aide-de-camp was sent with an important message to a
brigadier ; on nis return he was shot through the lungs, but
borne on by the consciousness of duty, he rode up to the
Duke, delivered the answer, and then dropped dead from
his horse. As yet it did not seem certain, whether all
this sacrifice had not been made in vain. The French,
though repulsed on every side, persevered in incessant
attacks, and the British squares, from the constant firing
and assaults, presented a diminished and less formidable
appearance,

" One general officer stated that his brigade had lost
one-third of its number, and that the survivors were so
exhausted with fatigue, that a brief respite, however
short, seemed absolutely necessary. * Tell him,' said tho
Duke, * what he proposes is impossible. He and I, and
every British soldier in the field, must die on the spot
which we now occupy rather than be beaten.'

" * It is enough,' replied the General, * I and every man
under my command are determined to share his fate'

«OLL^ BLUCJHIBB.

** Still the battle raged and was far from being decided.
Along the vt»olo line the frightful contest was maintained
with imabatin^ stabbomneas and ferocity. The in&ntry
advancing in eci:e2on of squares, to meet the French cav-
ahy, while the artilbry raked the enemy between the
squares as they advanced. Tha Biitish cavalry were then
in reserve ; but were ready to charge such of the French
as made their way through the intervals of thtj squai'es.'
All this time not a single British square had been broken,
and the enemy had suffered severely ; though onr ranks
vi^ere sadly thinned by the superior nTi^iabers and formid-
able artillery which had been bearitkg on them for so
many hours. About half -past five t>AO brigades were
Drought from Hill's corps on the right to uhe left centre,
in anticipation of a renewal of the attack on the weaker
part of the position. There was a pause on both sides,
only broken by the roar of big guns, and victory seemed
to hang in the balance. The crisis of the struggle was at
hand. Napoleon was desperate, and resolved to sacrifice
his last chance of retreat before the Prussians came up/
though his cavalry was already wrecked, and he had lost,
besides 15,000 men. There was no time to be lost, for
the Prussian guns were beginning to thunder on his flank
to the great delight of Wellington, who cried out in a
paroxysm of joy, * There goes " Old Blucher" at last,* and
by the JigVit of the setting sun his forces were seen issu-
iDg from the woods. Napoleon had still 1 5,000 men of
bib faithful guard, who, placed during the action in
reserve behind ' La Belle AiliaJice,' h.ul liardly pulled «

'-■■M

vk\'

THE IMPERIAL GUARDS.

trigger. Leaving his more remote point of observation
on the heights in rear of his line, Napoleon led theip for-
ward himself to the foot of the allied position. He then
caused them to defile before him, and telling them thai
the British army was nearly destroyed, and that to cany
the position they had only to brave the fire of the artil-
leiy, he concluded by pointing to the causeway, and
exclaimed, 'There, gentlemen is the road to Brussels !'
He was answered by loud shouts oi'Vive VEm^reurl
vwe VEmpereur !' which induced the British to think
that Napolean would in person lead them forward to
the attack, and every eye was directed to that quarter,
but from t!.eii clouds of smoke nothing could be distinctly
seen. Meantime Wellington changed the position of his
forces, so as to repel the assault, and two battalions of the
Guards were formed into line and marched to the brow
of the hill, where they were ordered tp lie down.

" Led by Marshal Ney, the Imperial Guards advanced
dauntlessly, rallying as they went such of the broken
cavalry and infantry as yet maintained the conflict The
British line, by the successes on the right, had pushed
forward, and now changed from a convex to a concave
position ; so that our artillerj'^ raked the French columns
as they advanced ; and so accurately were the guns di-
rected that the heads of the columns were constantly cut
off. Borne on, however, by the impetuosity of those in
the rear, they at length attained*the summit of the ridge
where the British lay concealed. At this importaijit time
Wellington, who had placed himself in the rear of th«

/ I

'■■■■>'■'" *''W_
J i. '■■ia

' UP GUARDS AND AT THSH t '

■\.r\

Guards, when he thought the French near enough, gave
the order at the top of his voice, ' Up, Guards, and at
them I ' They sprung to their feet as if by magic, poured
in on the French a well directed fire which made them
stagger ; a second volley put them in a sort of panic, and
the Duke, gallopping close to their rear, cried out, ' For-
ward, Guards ! charge I ' They advanced at the charge
with three British cheers, and rushed down the hill upon
the French with their bayonets at the charge, when
the veteran Guards of France, the chosen of Napoleon's
army, turned from the shock and fled. Meanwhile the
British followed them and discharged several vollies at
the retreating masses ; on the flanks the cavalry fell upon
them in fine style, and nearly destroyed them. Ney
fought sword in hand after his horse was shot from under
him ; his uniform was pierced through with bullets, and
he was the last to quit the struggle. Napoleon's only hope
was gone when he saw the flower of his army fly before
the impetuous charge of the British Guards ; but when h^
saw his cavalry fly and mixing with the fugitives and
trampling them down, he cried out, ' All is lost ! ' then
shook his head and turned pale as death. Soon after two
bodies of British cavalry rapidly advanced on either
flank, and the Prussians were closing up his rear. Now
was the time, had his spirit dictated it for Napoleon to
die a brave warrior's death ; but, no ; he said to his aide-
de-camp, who remained at his side, the fatal words, * All
is lost ; it is time to save ourselves ; ' and putting spurs to
his horse, turned and fled, leaving to their fate the gallai)^

• p

' . /■ .71

THE RETREAT OF THE FRENCH.

anny which had that day shed their hlood for him with
such profusion. Meanwhile, the whole British arm^, led
up by the illustrious conqueror himself;, charged the
French, who still maintained the combat. Amidst increas-
ed slaughter, the whole of the enemy fell back, and the
remains of Napoleon's grand army rushed away from the
Indomitable bravery of the British in one tumultuous
aight.

" As the British followed up, the French guns had gra-
dually ceased firing, the gunners abandoned them— the
drivel's cut the traces of their horses, in order that they
might fly the^ quicker — infantry and cavalry, officers and
soldiers mingled in the headlong torrent, strewing the
field with their dead and wounded as they rushed over
waggons, broken arms, and overturned artillery. Flyera
and pursuers drove headlong over the slain, dying, and
wounded. A slight resistance was made by four batta-
lions of the Imperial Guard who threw themselves into
square and stood firm, but even those heroic fellows were
30on swept away by the impetuosity of the British.

" The allies continued the pursuit of the flying foe, and
the grand army of Napoleon was virtually annihilated
The victorious armies now advanced on Paris without
meeting any serious opposition. Shortly afterwards
Napoleon, in attempting to escape from the British, was
captured and sent as a prisoner to the Island of St. Hel-
ena, in the South Atlantic, where he died an exile on the
6th of May, 1821."

After the story was ended the sergeant applied th«
canteen to hiff mouth and took a long pull, smacked hii i

■V ■'.*/ '■

V :;

'^''^\r-i'.

THE STAIT-SEROEANT'S ADVICE.

lips approvingly, then filled his pipe and commenced
smoking. While solacing himself with the soothing con-
diment, he gave us many words of counsel to be observed
while among our comrades in the barrack-room.

I refer to them now because I have stored them up in
my memory, and found them as useful elsewhere as in
the baiTack-room. One was, to observe when a sergeant's
or private soldier's wife, who might be in the same room
with me, was about to go for a pail of water, or was in
want of water, I was to take the pail and say, nay mis-
tress, let me go and fetch it for you, and go at once and
fetch the water. Another rule of conduct was, to be will-
ing to lend a helping hand to a sergeant, corporal, or a
comrade without being asked. By these little acts of civi-
lity and politeness you gain a host of friends, and your
name becomes proverbial among the non-commissioned
officers and men ; your good name will soon reach the ears
of the officers and the commanding officer, when you least
expect it. Hence promotion, then by emulation, good
conduct, and attention to your duties, you soon attain the
ladder of fame and become a boon to your Queen and
country, an ornament to society, and an everlasting monu-
ment of glory to your friends and relatives. Almost all
men who have risen above the social level upon which
they were bom, or who have created new branches of
trade, or have been masters, or have made discoveries,
have been men who were ever ready to put forth their
hands to help a companion in his difficulties or his work,
or to do something more than whftt was fillotted for him

r'\''- '^-/('

MARCH TO PUBUN.

to do by his employers. The apprentice, or joumeymftD,
or other person, who will not do more than is allotted ta
him, because he is not bound to do it, and who is contin<
ually drawing a line to define what he calls his rights,
with h^s fellow workman, or with his employer, or if in
the army, with his comrades, and the non-commissioned
officers immediately over him, is sure to remain where he
is, or sink to a lower level. He is not destined to be a
commander or an ornament to his profession, nor even a
successful master tradesman, nor to be a discoverer in
science, or inventor in mechanics, a propounder of new
philosophy, noi^ a promoter of the world's advancement,
and certainly not of his own.

It being the month of May, the roads were in excellent
order for marching, the weather salubrious and the country
looked green and beautiful in the summer sun. The
hffwthorn hedges along the road, interspei-sed with prim-
roses and wild flowers, perfumed the air with their fra-
grance. Altogether the journey to Dublin was a pleasant
one, thanks to the staff-sergeant who made it so by the
many wonderful stories and hairbreadth escapes which
he related during the march. ^

On our arrival in the evening we were billeted at a
public house, where soon after our arrival we enjoyed a
hot meal, tlie landlord being allowed ten-pence for the
same, this being^ according to " Her Majesty's Regulat-
After we had regaled ourselves with the land-

ions.

loixl's hospitality, the sergeant enjoyed himself with his
pipe and a glass or two of beer ; he also aU9wed the re*

OITT or DX7BLIN.

cruits to have some beer. I had never tasted beer pre-
vious to this, although I had tasted " potheen whiskey."
After the sergeant had finished his pipe and glass of beer
we retired to bed, slept ^ell, and dreamed of long marches.
We were on the march again at eight o'clock next morn-
ing, and so every day until we reached Dublin, which we
accomplished in ten days.

On arrival in that city I was astonished at the appear-
ance of the splendid high buildings, the like of which I
had never seen before ; they formed a striking contrast
with the cabins which I had been used to look upon in
Leitrim. We entered the city from the South, marched
past the Boyal BaiTacks, along the Liffoy to Carlisle
Bridge, where we crossed over; thence past the Bank
and Trinity College to Beggar's Bush Barracks, where
we were to await orders to join the depot of our regiment
in Canterbury.

On arrival in barracks we were told off to different
companies 'pro tem.^ until our embarkation for Liverpool.
This was my first night in barracks. I was shown a bed
or cot with three pegs over it, to hang my clothes on.
We soon got acquainted with other recruits, and old
soldiers, who showed us to the canteen, where there was
a large company of soldiers and recruits carousing and
1 singing.

On the first post-sounding, we all had to answer our
I names in the barrack-room at tattoo roll-call, and be in
[bed at last post-sounding. Fifteen minutes afterwards
r out lights " was sounded, when all the lights were put

% ,

1 '.' ''■%

4 •

,' 1^

▼lEWINO THI OTTT.

out except the orderly sergeantB* who had fifteen minutei
longer for theirs. MeveilU sounded next morning at five
o'clock, when we all got up, made our beds, and were on
parade at six o'clock, when we were drilled till half-past
seven — were practised at the setting up drill and the
goose step. It being my first drill, I was somewhat
iwkward ; but I soon became a proficient. We had three
juch drills daily (Sundays excepted), while we were in
those barracks. On being dismissed, we went to break-
fast, which consisted of a pound of bread and a basin of
cofiee each man ; my appetite being good I made short
work of the ^ound of bread. Our dinner consisted of
soup, beef, and potatoes ; at supper we got a quarter of a
p'tund of bread and a basin of tea.

After paying for our lutions, washing and barrack
Jamages, there were fourpence left, which I received
every day at twelve o'clock, so that I could spend that
much for extra food if I wanted it ; some of the recruits
preferred to spend it on beer.

When the daily afternoon drill was over, I generally
walked into the city to see what I could of the place.
I went past some splendid shops, saw the soldiers on
guard at the castle, went into the Royal, Ship Street,
and Linen Hall Barracks, visited Nelson's monument,
Sackville Street, Four Courts, and Bum's saloon, in the
evening. After we had been a week in barracks, an or-
der came for us to proceed to Canterbury and join our
depot there ; this order was most agreeable, and we hailed
it with pleasure, for we were anxious to get into our uni-

>■'

KMBARK FOB UTERPOOL.

form. Accordingly, two days afterwards, fourteen of lii,
with a Staff sergeant in charge, were paraded on the bar-
rack square. After we h^ signed our accounts, and
were told that our bounty would be paid to us on arrival
at our depot, we were told to number off from the right,
and showed how to "form four deep." The command
•' quick march" being given, we marched off to the North
Wall for embarkation on board a steamer, which was to
sail for Liverpool at four p.m. that day. An officer ac-
companied us to the steamer to see us all safe on board.
Several soldiers came to see us off. I would like to tell
my readers more about Dublin, l^ut as I hope to visit it
again during my soldiering, I will defer them till further
experience has increased my stock of knowledge. Four
o'clock P. M. was the time set for our departure ; we
were all well pleased when we got on board ; the after-
noon was delightful, so, therefore, we anticipated a pleas-
ant voyage. An ocean ship was to me a novel place, and
I had many things to learn.

" What is that little flag at the main -mast? " said I to
one of the sailors who stood near me.

" That they call a Blue Peter ; it indicates that the ship
is to sail immediately."

" And what is that flag at the stem V

" Why that is the Union Jack, the pride and boast of
every British sailor — ^yea, and every British soldier."

This answer caused my memory to revert back to some
historict-1 events which I had previously read ; how Brit-
iah soldiers and sailors had shed their blood in defence of

■fi

■ym

>^'a

A ■'. '' !■

THE YOTAI^

that flag " that braved a thousand years, the batUe, and
the breeze."

My reflections were broken by the loud, sharp cry of
the ship's captain, " All aboaid." The last warning was
given ; friends hastily exchanged the farewell tokens of
affection. I saw many, too, struggling to keep their tears
back. I stood alone ; no one knew me, or cared particu-
larly for me, but I was not an uninterested spectator. I
dropped a few tears when I looked on my native land,
which I was about to leave, and thought of the friends I
had left behind me. AIL was in readiness — ten minutes
past four o'cldbk, p.m., the ponderous machine was put
in motion; the huge paddle-wheels lazily obeyed the
mandate. The Blue Peter came down, and the Union
Jack went up, and we moved slowly out among the ship-
ping of the harbour. It was a clear, beautiful evening,
and the water lay like an immense mirror, in the sun-
light. We passed the light-house, which stood at the end
of the harbour, like a huge sentinel, to guide the passage
to the ocean.

Onward we went ; shore and city faded away and dis-
appeared in the distance. I looked out on the wide ex-
panse of waters, the sea and sky were all that could be
seen now, except a few sea-gulls, which hovered round
the ship in search of an accidental crumb that might be
thrown overboard. We were fairly out at sea.

The flags were taken in, and things put in readiness for
rougher ocean life ; for a time we moved on pleasantly.
Towards sun-down, however, a head wind sprung up,

CITT or LIVERPOOL.

producing that rocking motion of the boat that makes sea
life 80 much of a dread to those unaccustomed to water.
At about ten o'clock our head-wind changed to a side-
wind, and we had what the sailors call " a chopping sea,"
producing a very unpleasant motion of the boat.

Previous to this, recruits were in good spirits, but now
lilence reigned. I could see them getting pale, and one
by one go below. I felt myself approaching a crisis of
some kind, but was determined to put it off as long as
possible. I kept on deck in the open air, and resolutely
frowned down all signs of rebellion in my stomach. From
what I heard going on around me, I was aware that I
was not the worst sufferer ; with some the agony of the
contest was kept up all night long. At three o'clock
A. M., we passed Holy Head ; at five we were steaming
up the Mersey, and were landed at Liverpool Dock at
six o'clock A. M. After a run of twelve and a half hours>
here J was, standing in amazement, looking at the forests
of masts, and the vast amount of shipping in the docks.

Liverpool is noted principally for its shipping accom-
modation and fine docks ; of these it has now over eleven
miles in length, all walled in, and protected by massive
gates like the locks of a canal ; this renders the shipping
very secure. It is a place of great mercantile importance
and trade ; the streets are continually in a perfect jam,
with heavy waggons and vehicles of almost every des-
cription. If I was astonished at the appearance of Dub-
lin, how much more so at this great Babel of commerce.

The sergeant took us to an eating-house, owned by one
of his acquaintances, where he orderiad breakfast, for

, •

■■;^A

TRAIN TO LONDON.

which I believe the landlord did not make much profit]
for what with sea- sickness, and fasting since three p.m.
the day previous, I'll leave it to my readers to determine
whether we were able to do justice to the landlord's hos-
pitality or not. After satisfying the cravings of the in-
ner man, we marched off gaily with a light heart, and a
full stomach to the Great North-western Railway Station,
where we took the ten A.M. train for London. I am now
taking my first view of England and English scenery,
also my first ride in a railway carriage.

As we passed along, numerous towns and villages dot-
ted the country ; multitudes of great black smoke stacks,
amid splendid steeples and church towers, side by side,
rose in majesty towards the heavens. Thus religion and
industry are generally, nay always, found in close prox-
imity ; with the smoke of the furnace goes up the incense
of worship ; with the hum of machinery is mingled the
anthem of praise. The train stopped at several stations,
which were handsomely fitted up ; during the journey
we frequently partook of refreshments at the different
stations. The train travelled very fast.

After a ride of one hundred and eighty miles, in five
and a half hours, we reached London, the great metropo-
lis of England, and the mart of the world. We were sot
down at Euston station. Now ray eyes, indeed, werp
opened wide, gazing on the magnificence of the great
modern Babel of the universe. We were billeted on
three different taverns, in close proximity to each other.
The sergeant Imd to report himself at the " Hoi-se Otiardj),**

ARRIVAL AT LONDON.

■*.i3^

and hand over some recruits which he had for regiments
stationed in London. ^ / '

He left me in charge of the hillets while he was gone.
We remained here five days, during which I visited a
great many places. TheVe are many wonderful things
that can be seen in a brief walk through this great metro-
polis, if a man has his eyes open.

I should like to have had time here to take my reader
to the top of some of the tall monuments, to walk with
him among the wondrous fortifications of the " Old Lon-
don Tow^er," through the rooms where nobles, princes,
kings and queens have been incarcerated ; to stand v ith
him on " Tower Hill," where the scaffold and executioner's
olock tell their dark tales of treachery and blood, and
murder. I should like to go with my reader to West-
minster Abbey, a wonderful pile, a venerable old church,
and the great sepulchral home of England's honoured
dead. It is worth a jouiiiey across the Atlantic to take
a stroll through its cold, damp aisles and chapels; to
stand amid its costly monuments and mouldering dust
where death for many long centuries has been gathering
her glorious trophies, and yet her dark garlands have been
recorded and embodied by human skill, art, and genius.
1 have in a very brief space brought before my readers
facts and stories; but I must defer any further descrip-
tion until my next visit, for I hope to see all these
wonders again.

The sergeant had done his duty to his satisfaction, and
this being our last evening in London he took us to tli^

/!..

V-J

I'l •'■'

**^TH£ ROTAL BENGAL TIGEBS.'

'\t

Haymarket Theatre, where we witnessed the " Colleen
Bawn." This was the first time I ever visited a theatre
in my life, or witnessed a dramatic performance of any
kind, therefore I can assure my reader that my mind was
very much elated and my admiration was spontaneous.

After the play was over, we took the sergeant into a
saloon close by, where we regaled him with a cold supper,
beer and cigars, after which we went to our billets feeling
quite jolly.

Next morning after paying the landlord and bidding
him good-bye, we marched to the Waterloo Railway Sta-
tion, where we took the train at ten o'clock. After a ride
of about eigl^ty miles, in two hours, we were in Canter-
bury, and put down at St. Dunstan Street Station,
marched into barracks, and were handed over to the officer
commanding the depot of the 17th Regiment of foot, the
, " Royal Bengal Tigers." We were told off to companies,
and shown our quarters. More about Canterbury as my
story^ advances. As I am now stationed here, I hope to
have an opportunity of getting acquainted with this
ancient cathedral city.

CHAPTER V.

MEDICAL EXAMINATION— REOEIVE MY KIT — DRILL, MANUAL AND
PLAIOON EXEKCISE — DISMISSED DRILL — VISIT THE CITY — DESO&IF-
TION OF ROUTE — THE MARCH.

I HE following morning reveille sounded at five o'clock,
when I turned out, made my bed up, a process by
the way which requires a considerable amount of ingen-
uity, skill and practice to accomplish in a manner sufficient
to pass the inspection of the non-commissioned officer
who has charge of the room. I will explain the operation
for the edification of my gentle reader.

After getting out of bed, and partially dressing myself
with boots and trousers, before making my toilet, I go to
work in shirt sleeves ; lift the clothes off the mattress,
which I roll up tightly and secure by means of a long
leather strap buckled around its centre, lift it with one
hand off the cot, which I turn up with the other hand ;
placing the mattress square upon the end of the cot, then
fold the rug lengthways in four doubles, and place it
across the mattress, folding the blankets and sheets neatly
according to regulations, showing the edges of the folds
as even and straight as a rule ; wrap the ends of the rug

A soldier's rations

round these folds and fasten tightly with a wire hook ;
turn this compact package over on the mattr^;
straighten the edges of the folds with the blade of a knife;
fasten a card, with my name and regimental number, on
the front of my bedding; then go and dress for parade,
this I did and was dressed and ready for parade when the
drill bugle sounded at half-past five every morning. Some
recruits are much smarter at making up their beds than
others, who are continually found fault with by the non-
commissioned officers, fur the slovenly manner in which
they fold their bedding. Parade being formed at six by
the sergeant-major, the tecruits without uniform were not
required to dtill that morning ; drill being over and the
bugle for breakfast sounding, we all sat down to a pound
c»f bread and a basin of coffee each. Many who are pam-
pered with luxuries and continually complaining of their
appetite, would envy those recruits if they witnessed the
short work they made of their pound c* brown bread and
a basin of coffee after an hour's dr:U before breakfast.
Those who are troubled with indigestion or dyspepsia
would save a large amount of doctors' pills and doctors'
bills if they would put themselves on soldiers* rations,
which would be a sure cure for the worst case of dyspepsia
or indigestion, if they have forbearance enough to restrain
their appetites from the indulgence in any other luxuries.
There are no dyspeptics in the «,rmy. After this frugal
meal, however, we were marched off to the regimental
hospital by the orderly corporal, where we had to pass
another strict medical examination, as to soundness of the

\" '■■*'

- vj*

I RECEIVE MT KIT.

internal system, limbs and eye-sight ; we were ordered td
undi-ess, then walk fast and slow, and made to put our
bodies into different positions of great difficulty, to shut
one eye and look with the other through a tube and
count the number of small atoms that were placed on the
glass for the purpose of testing the eyesight. After which
we were finally retui'ued fit for service ; we were next
marched to the quartermaster's stores and received our
uniform and kit, which consisted of one each of the
following articles, viz. : pair boots, cloth trowsers, summer
trowsers, shako, tunic, stock and clasp, shell jacket, forage
cap, pair mits, tin of blacking, pair braces, clothes brush,
canteen iind cover, knapsack and straps, great coat and
haversack, two shirts, two pair socks, and two towels ; for
the marking of which we were charged a halfpenny each.
We were next taken to the tailor's shop, where we had
our clothing altered and fitted ; this lasted four or five
days, during which time we were exempt from drill ; but
instead had to do the duties of orderly men by turns, that
is, prepare the meals for those at drill, and keep the bar-
rack rooms clean and in proper order. After we got our
clothing made to fit us all right, we then turned out to
drill three times a day, viz. : before breakfast, club drill ;
ten o'clock, commanding officer's parade, with setting up
drill ; afternoon, goose step, extension and balance motions.
At all these parades and drills we were minutely in-
8[)ected by the orderly sergeant, and afterwards by the
sergeant-major, and if the least fault was found, ordered*

to parade again, which was called " a dirty parade." I
F '

* ■ *3

r,*-?-

MANUAL AND PLATOON EXEBCISB. ^

took particular pains to escape the latter. When drill
commenced we were formed into squads of six or eight
men each, in line at arm's length apart, which is termed
'Hi squad with intervals ; " after drilling in single rank
/ or a week, one squad was increased to two ranks at open
. |,)rder, the rear rank covering the intervals. The sergeant*
ruajor frequently came roimd to superintend the drill, and
whoaever he found an attentive deserving recruit invari-
ably sent him up to a more advanced squad ; in thi? way
the ? lore intelligent and deserving recruits were advanced.
I ^as among the lucky ones, who were first sent up, and
I 'ifber wards got sent up step by step until I reached the
advanced squad, where I learned company's drill without
arms, after which we were served with arms, formed into
squads, taught the manual and platoon exercise, company
and battalion movements with arms. We were then put
through a course of ball practice. The distance being
fifty, a hundred, one hundred and fifty, and two hundred
yards ; the " Old Brown Bess " beiag in use then. The
first shot I fi>;ed I got a bull's eye, which was reckoned a
first class ^hot then, but how strange that was the only
one I got during the whole practice, notwithstanding I
tried my level best to get one every time I fired, I then
concluded that the bull's eye must have been a chance shot.
After we had finished the course, we were again inspected,
when we acquitted ourselves to the entire satisfaction of
the officers, and were accordingly dismissed from re-
cruits* drill, and returned fit for duty as soldiers. Two
days afterwards the head-quarteis of the regiment arrivedl

k J'i

TfS^^^rp^^^jy^^-^

'■f r

POSTED TO THE GRENADIER COMPANY.

from Bombay, marched into barracks, band playing,
colours flying, forming up on the barracks square. The
men were tall and soldier-like, but very much tanned
from exposure in the east. Their strength on arrival was
only five hundred. We were all delighted to meet the
head-quarters, which had been long expected. They had
a long, rough voyage of three months, having come in a
sailing vessel. A.fter they had been inspected by the
commanding officer, Lt. Col. Pinnikuck, they were told
off and shown their different barrack rooms. Next day,
regimental orders being issued, I heard my name read
out, " Private Thomas Faughnan posted to Grenadier or
Captain L. C. Bourchier's company." I was well pleased
at hearing this, it being reckoned the crack company of
the regiment. The whole of the recruits were also posted
to the different service companies.

Being dismissed from recruits* drill, I had ample oppor-
tunities of walking out in the afternoons and visiting-
some of the ancient and time-worn placf<# around the city
among which was the cathedral, one of the oldest ecclesi-
astical edifices in England. It was consecrated by Saint
Augustine, A. D. .597. Here too, he baptized Ethelbert,
King of Kent. Saint Martin's Church-under-the-hill, said
to be the oldest in England, is another time-worn struc-
ture, partly built of Roman brick and tiles. There are
fourteen such old churches here, most of them built of
rough flint, and very ancient. Also the ruins of a Norman
castle, one of the largest in England, which stands near a
mound known as the " Dan John ;" connected with this,

i ^■: 1

'■''?:.

»*: ■

PBEPARINO FOB THE IfABC^.

ore beautiful j^rdens, where a military band played al-
ways on Thursday afternoons, when hundreds of the elite
of the city assembled to promenade those favoured grounds
and enjoy the sweet martial music. This is one of the
most delightful stations in England for a soldier, there ia
no garrison duty to perform, the only duties being the
y regimental guards, and they come very seldom, the men
getting sixteen nights in bed between each guard. Regi-
ments arriving from India are generally stationed here for
some time, in order to recruit their strength after foreign
service and the long sea voyage. The citizens are very
much attached tp soldiers, and treat them with the greatest
kindness and respect.- During the harvest, reapers were
very scarce, therefore the soldiers were allowed to go into
the fields and assist the farmers in cutting down their
grain, for which the men were well paid — horse-reapers
were then unknown.

.Our regiment was not fortunate enough to be left here
much longer, for a letter of " readiness" was received by
the commanding officer, directing him to hold the regi-
ment in readiness to proceed to Dover at the shortest
notice, which he made known to us in a regimental order
that evening. After this order was read we were all on
the alert, officers and men preparing for the march, pack-
ing officers' baggage, white-washing and cleaning barracks
— to save barrack damages, that great cui-ao-— ready to
hand over to the barrack master.
Accordingly th^ ;Qi;te p»me, which wa3 reatl a3 follows,

'I,.'??'','''

WB OST THE BOUTS.

" Agreeably to a route received tflis day from Horse
Guards, the regiment will parade in heavy marching order,^
at eight o'clock, A.M., on Tuesday next, the 24th instant,
for the purpose of proceeding to Dover, there to be sta-
tioned till further orders. The men will breakfast at seven
o'clock on that day."

The following morning, inspection of kits, at ten o'clock,
by the commanding officer, ordered, and afterwards medi-
cal inspection. Next day being Sunday, the regiment
paraded at ten o'clock for divine service, when we all
marched to church, with the band playing ; Protestants
and Roman Catholics marching to their different places
(if worship, no other denomination being recognized in
the regiment then ; but now all denominations are allowed
to march to their respective places of worship. The bar-
racks were inspected on the following Monday morning
by the quarter-master and captains of companies. The
afternoon was occupied in loading the regimental baggage
on the waggons supplied for that purposa

Tuesday, September 24th, the regiment was on parade,
ready to fall in, when the officers and non-commissioned
officers* call sounded ; the latter, forming in line, were
minutely inspected by the adjutant and sergeant-major,
at the same time collecting the reports from the orderly
sergeants, after which the companies formed on their
coverers right in front. The rolls being called, the cap-
tains inspected their respective companies ; that being fin-
ished, the colonel gave the commands : eyes front, steady
fix bayonets, shoulder arms, left wheel into line, quick

MARCH TO DOVER.

march, halt, dress! Then the adjutant galloped down the
front, collecting the reports, saluting the Colonr! as he
reported " all correct, colonel 1 " When the latter gave the
command, " form fours, right, quick march ! " when the
whole stepped off, the band at the same time striking up
*' Auld Lang Syne ; " marched out of barracks, down North
Gate, and up High Street, accompanied by an immense
crowd of citizens, who very much regretted our departure
from their midst.

After marching through the principal streets the music
changed to " The Girl I Left Behind Me," of whom a large
number accompanied us outside the town, ostensibly in
great grief at parting with their sweethearts ; when the ,
order was given, " unfix bayonets, march at ease." The I
latter order being quickly obeyed, for we had a heavy i
load on our backs, having the whole of our kit iu our |
knapsacks. We were allowed to sing, chat, talk, and laugh,
to shorten the journey. I had se but little of rural
England previous to this, and though that was but i
glimpse, compared with what I have seen since, it was
fresh, vivid, and impressive. I retain it to this day dis- 1
tinctly, and can at will draw out the whole line of coan-
try before me ; the village wayside inns, half-way house
where we halted to rest, piled arms, and were allowed to |
go into the hotel for refreshments ; swinging sign-boards, j
village green, broad commons, cross-roads, finger-posts,!
the trees with the dead of many generations under their |
roots, bearing upon their branches, one might suppose,
fruit, but instead, they were loaded with a young genera-

*'THE COTTAGE H0MB8 Of ENQLARD."

tion of miniature men in round white hats, smock frocks,
leather leggings, and laced hobnail boots, and their grown^
up relatives in the same sort of dress, standing on the
ground, as if they had dropped from the trees when they
grew large and heavy. Ail were out to look at the sol-
diers, who so seldom march along that road. Women also,
and babes in their arms, were out, and laughing little
maids, the future brides and mothers o^ al England,
climbed on the gates and fences to see ; and hearing the
boys in the trees call out " Soldier, give I that long sword,
wilt thee, I bo big enough to fight." The gentloiuan and
ladies from the mansion that stood within the wooded
parks, walked out and looked upon the unusual sight.
So did grave vicars, and rectors, and their servants look
out at the long line of brave-looking soldiers, wh^n the
trumpets or band played. The village live-stock upon
the common, dogs, hogs, asses, and old war-hornes, which
had once been in military service, now capered when
they heard the trumpets, as if young again ; all were set^
astir by the marching of a regiment among them. The
cows hobbled to the furthest side of the common, having
no sympathy for red coats and big drums ; and the geese
which had survived the killing and the roasting at
Christmas, sheered off, an I faced round at a distance to
hiss, as if they were disloyal geese hissing a regiment of
"Royal Tigers"; as if t!icy knew that soldiers were
ignorant of roast goose.

When we were well rested and refreshed (thanks to the
landlord, who had everything we desired ready), we re-

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(716) •72-4503

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AKRIVAL AT DOVER.

sumed our march again, the people cheering and waving
their handkerchiefs as the band struck up the " British
Grenadiers/' atad we accomplished the journey of sixteen
miles in eight or nine hours, in heavy marching order.
On arrival at Dover, at four o'clock p.m., the left wing
was stationed at the castle, and the right with head-
quarters, at the heights. ^

'' \

if^td'' -■ ■■.-■'^'■■'.ii,

• 1 -'^tJ

'. i Si

>■

•4\

CHAPTER VL

iKRITAL AT DOVER—FIRST GUARD — THE DEAD H0TT8B-— OROST — THB
HEIGHTS — THB SHAFT FORTIFICATIONS— MAROHINO OUT — CHAR-
TISTS* RIOTS— TRAIN TO LONDON — DEPARTURE OSBORNE HOU8B—
MAIN DOCK — ROUTE TO CHATHAM — THE SIEOE— SHAM FIQHT.

N the arrival in barracks, the companies were
!.shown their respective quarters, where we soon di-
vested ourselves of our knapsacks, arms and accoutre-
ments ; orderly men were told oft to draw rations and
prepare supper, others were told otf to unload baggage,
while the lemainder went to fill their beds with straw at
the barrack stores ; after which, cleaning of arms and ac-
coutrements occupied the remainder of the evening. We
were exempt from drill the following day, in order to get
our barracks and appointments thoroughly clean and in
proper order after the march.

It was now drawing near my turn for guard, and it
being my first, 1 was determined to turn out to guard —
mounting parade in a soldier-like manner, with my ap-
pointments clean and shining, so as to escape if possible
that, to a soldier, ignominious ordeal of a " dirty parade "
to which many of the recruits became victims through
the interposition of the adjutant, who was exceedingly

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strict with the recruits, in order to sharpen them up, and
make clean,, smart soldiers of them. Accordingly, as ][ had
anticipated, I was detailed for guard by the orderly
sergeant, after he had called the roll at tattoo, the evening
previous. Next morning, I was up before the reveille
sounded, made up my bed and got everything ready and
shining before the breakfast bugle sounded; thanks to
my comrade, an old soldier who was ever willing to show
me anything I required to learn in the way of keeping
my appointments in order, and also initiated me into the
mystery of shining my pouch with a composition which
none but the old soldiers knew how to prepare. So well
he might for) I spent all my pay on beer for him at the
canteen, and when he got so full that he could not walk
to his barrack-room I invariably carried him on my back
and put him in bed before the orderl}*^ -sergeant came
round to call the roll ab tattoo, thus saving him from the
guard-room. Next morning I generally fetched him a
pint of beer to slake his thirst. Breakfast being over
I dressed and accoutred myself with the assistance of my
thirsty comrade, who gave the coup de grace to my
uniform and appointments. I then walked about on the
parade ground in order to be ready to fall in when the ;
bugle sounded. After which the guards were formed and
minutely inspected by the adjutant, who ordered several
recruits an extra parade, or, as it was called a " dirty
parade "after they came off guard next day. When he
came in front of me he inspected me very closely, then
ordered me to face about and examined my pouch which

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THE DJ^AD HOUSK.

«vas shining like patent leather, then ordered me to front
and passed on seemingly well pleased at my appearance ;,
thus I escaped any fault at my first guard -mounting
parade, which is an unusual thing for a recruit. After
the inspection was over the guards were marched off to
their respective posts. I was detailed for the western
redoubt, which furnishes a sentry over the garrison hos-
pital that stands on the middle of a common on the top
of the western heights above the barracks, and a quartei
of a mile from any house or habitation. After mounting
guard I was in the first relief, and my post was at the
hospital ; on receiving over my orders from the previous
sentry, he directed my attention to the "dead-house,"
where, laid out on a table ready for dissection, was. the
body 'of an old soldier who became debilitated out in
India, and died in the hospital that morning, and I was
to keep the rats from gnawing the corpse. That was
all easy enough until the night came on; when the
corporal posted me at eleven o'clock, he again reminded
me of my orders i.e., to be sure and keep the rats from de-
facing the corpse. I had a great mind to ask the corporal
to change me to another post, as it was my first guard, I
was not used to watching dead men ; but I knew that he
and the men of the guard would only chide me with the
epithet of coward, so I therefore determined to be resolute
and not show any fear or cowardice, which I well knew
was not the characteristic of a British soldier. After
the corporal had marched off the relief, all the ghost
ttories and fairy tales I had heard told by the old men

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and women in Ireland, and at tha potheen still-house io
Leitrim, came up as vividly and as fresh to my memory aa
when they were told. While I was thus thinking of
those frightful stories, I made sure that I heard a noise
proceeding from the corpse, when my heart jumped to
my mouth with fear, I looked round towards the " dead-
house" and a man as I thought, dressed in while gar-
ments, was standing at the door of the house where the
corpse was laid out. I tried to challenge, hut my tongue
was tied, I felt as if paralyzed, my hair though short
stood up like bristles on a pig's back, the cold perspiration
rolled down my face, and I trembled all over with fright.
I tottered to ihe wall of the building and scrambled
along it till I gained the front of the hospital where
I knocked at the door, when the hospital sergeant
came out and said, " What's the matter, sentry ? "

After he spoke, I drew a long breathy and felt some*
what relieved of fear, when I found my tongue and an-
swered, " Oh ! sergeant, there's a man dressed in white,
standing at the door of the dead-house."

"What nonsense you talk," said he, as he went in a.gain.
Soon after, however,he came back again, with a lantern in
his hand, and accompanied by a hospital orderly, muttering
something incoherent,when both went round to the "dead-
house," and there they found everything as they had left
it, except the corpse which the rats had been gnawing.
The sergeant threatened to report me for leaving my pest,
giving a false alarm, and allowing the corpse to be dis-
6gured by the rodents.

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THE COLONEL S ORDERLY.

This ihreat of the sergeant's took possession of my
mind, ai>d expelled therefrom all thoughts of the ghost
stories. I did not like the idea of being reported for any
unsold] erly conduct while performing my first guard. I
walked about briskly the remainder of the two hours,
which appeared to me the longest I ever remember, knock-
ing at the door of the " dead-house " frequently with the
butt end of my musket so as to frighten the vermin
away. I apologized to the sergeant next morning for dis-
turbing him during the previous night, and asked him to
overlook my timidity during my tour of duty as it was
my first guard. This he vouchsafed to do, exhorting me
at the same time, to be more emulous and soldierlike in
my bearing during my future career in the British army;
this I promised to accomplish, and thanked the sergeant.
I said nothing of the occurrence to my comrades on guard,
lest they might hold me up as an object of ridicule.

Our guard being relieved next morning at ten o'clock,
we were marched to barracks, there inspected by the
orderly officer of the day, and dismissed. The next time
I was for guard, I was emulous of attaining the coveted
duty of being orderly to the commanding ofiicer, which
is duly secured by extra cleanliness and neatness of ap-
pointments, combined with a soldierly appearance at
guard-mounting parade. Therefore I brought all my
faculties to bear on the one all absorbing thought which
filled my breast, viz : To get turned out by the adjutant
at guard mounting parade as orderly to the colonel . Ab
ibe inspection proceeded my heart beat within me« as I

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healtl the adjutant finding fault with some of the mei^'it
pouches not being properly shined, and the great coats not
folded according to order.

At last he came round again after making the inspec<
tion of the whole, and tipped myself with his cane, and
said ; " Fall out, Faughnan, and go as orderly to Colonel
Pinnikuck." It's a little thing that turns the scale in the
future of a man's life. My ambition was consummated.
I redoubled my exertions from that day forward to attain
superiority, which was commensurate with my expecta-
tions.

The ganison bonsisted of two batteries of royal artil-
lery, one on the heights, and the other at the castle, a
company of sappers and miners, besides our own regiment.
The troops had many guards to furnish, consequently
the men got only five nights ^in bed between duty ; be-
sides, fatigue parties were many and laborious, on account
of so much uphill work ; the water supplied to the gar-
rison was brought up from a well over three hundred
feet, deep, by means of a wheel which took four men to
work, they being relieved every two houra. The heights
on which the barracks stand ar^ three hundred and eighty
feet above the level of the sea. A deep perpendicular
shaft, containing about four hundred steps of winding
stairs, leads from town to the barracks on the heights,
which tries the men's wind when coming up them at
tattoo, more especially if they are late for the last post,
a8 well as other times, when on fatigue or coming ofi
guard with their knapsacks and accoutrements on their

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THE CHABTIST BIOTS.

backs. The garriboi) is weU fortified, and comprises
" Dover Castle/' which occupies a commanding position
on the Chalk Cliffs, about 300 feet above the level of the
sea, and in the construction of which Saxons and Normans
displayed no small amount of ingenuity. The Western
Heights, Fort Burgoyne, the South Front Bastion, the
Drop Redoubt, the Citadel, the Western Outworks, and
the North Centre Bastion, with Queen Ann's pocket
piece on the Castle Heights. The harbour is well shelter-
ed by the Chalk Cliffs, which end landwards in a charm-
ing valley leading to what is known as the " Garden of
Kent." ■ -

During the winter months our regiment marched into
the country, in heavy marching order, twice a week, when
we generally went ten or twelve miles on each occasion,
and not unfirequently encountering a heavy snow or rain
storm, returning literally covered with mud, the roads
being very sloppy. These marches, with guards, picqvc^t^;
and fatigues, kept us busily employed.

About the end of March, there was great excitement in
London over the " Chartists," who were expected to break
out in open rebellion. The Colonel got private notifica-
tion that most likely the regiment would be ordered to
proceed thither to quell the riot, which was daily expected..
Our expectations were realized, for on the sixth of April,
1848, we got the route to proceed to London by rail on
the 9th instant, there to be stationed till further orders.
When this order was given there was great excitement
I in barracks preparing for the journey ; we had only two

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days to pack and get the baggage to' the station. Ho^w*
ever, many hands made light work, and we had all the
baggage down to the station and everything in readiness
on the evening previous to our departure. On the 9th we
were on parade at seven o'clock, a. m., in heavy marching
order, the companies told off and all reported present,
when the Colonel gave the command — " quarter distance
column on the Grenadiers, quick march," each captain
halting his respective company as it came into its place.
He then addressed the men with a few words of fatherly
advice, urging them to good behaviour while in London,
that great Meti'opolis of the universe where they would
be under the supervision of the commander-in-chief, H^s
Grace the Duke of Wellington, and all his staff as well as
the war office authorities. He enjoined them to always
maintain the honour of their corps by their meritorious
conduct and good discipline, while off, as well as on duty,
and to ever remember with pride the noble profession to
which they had the honour to belong, and never disgrace
the service by their unworthiness or misconduct, &c.
After giving three hearty cheers for the Queen and all
the Royal family, he gave the command " to the right
face," when each captain gave the command to his res-
pective company, " quick march," the companies stepping
oft* in succession, each company wheeling to the left down
the shaft.

On arriving at the bottom, the band struck up " The
British Grenadiers ; " we marched to the station (accom-
panied by a large copppv^rs^ of the pitizens), where a.

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x'-it' .

ARRIVAL IN LONDON.

special train was in readiness to convey us to London.
As we went on board the train, the band played ** Auld
Lang Syne," and "The Girl I Left Behind Me." Afl the
train moved slowly out of the station, handkerchiefs were
waved by the sympathetic crowd, who gave us three
hearty cheers, which were lustily responded to by three
rousing cheers from the redcoats on board the train. One'
hour and a half afterwards we were marching four deep
with fixed bayonets, from the Dover and Chatham station
to Millbank Prison, where we were to be stationed during
our term of duty in London. The streets were so crowd-
ed with an excited populace that we had the greatest
difficulty in reaching our destination.

On arrival we were shown into two large rooms, one
for each wing, with a straw mattress on trestles for each
man. The following morning, April 10th, 1848, an order
had arrived from the Duke of Wellington, who was then
commander-in-chief, to hold the troops in readiness to
march to Kennington Common, where the Chartists had
intended assembling in large numbers to march through
London to the House of Commons, carrying a petition
embodying their demands. This was to be presented by
Fergus O'Connor, who was then one of the members for
Nottingham.

The Londoners, to the number of a quarter of a million
enrolled themselves as special constables ; the Chartists
were not allowed to walk in procession, and the whola
affair passed off quietly, without bloodshed, except one or
two policemen who got their heads badly bruised by the

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98 .

ORDERED TO PGRT81I0UTH.

mob while in the act of performing their duty by capturing
one of the ringleaders, who was inciting the people to
deeds of violence by seditious speeches in Hyde Park,
when he was marched off to the lock-up for safe keeping
by the administrators of the law.

The troops which the Duke had posted ready at differ-
ent points where he expected they would be most needed
when called on (out of sight) were not required. Our
regiment with several others, and a few troops of cavalry,
were under arms the whole day in rear of the prison
ready to advance at the shortest notice.

While statipned in the prison we were not allowed to
go through the city, on account of the unsettled state of
society, but were supplied with beer inside by the orderly
Bergeants of companies, who served it out to us in our
canteens.

Peace and order having been restored by the excellent
management and location of the troops at the most im-
portant and strategetical parts of the city by the Duke of
Wellington, whose skill in military movements was equal
to the emergency, these troops, which had been concen-
trated in London from different parts of England, in an-
ticipation of the foreseen emergency, were now ordered
to return, some to their former stations, others to fresh
ones. Our regiment was ordered to proceed to Ports-
mouth, for the purpose of doing garrison duty there until
further orders. As the troops emerged simultaneously
from their different places of concealment, with theii
colours and pennons flying, swords and bayonets and ap

ARRIVAL IN PORTSMOUTH.

pointments glistening in the sun, the bands playing at
the head of each regiment, and the horses prancing,
together with the martial bearing and noble appearance
of the officers and men, as they marched through the
streets, keeping time to the music, verified the history of
the British Army to the Londoners, who were greatly
astonished at such a magnificent military demonstration
at such short notice, the like of which the majority of
them perhaps had never witnessed before, as the troops
advanced to their respective destinations.

Our march was to the London and South-Western Rail-
way station, where we took the train at ten o'clock A.M.,
for Portsmouth, arriving there at twelve o'clock, a dis-
tance of seventy-five miles in two hours.

We were marched to Colworth and Clarence ban'acks,
where the usual details of duties and preparations for
home comforts were gone through in a soldierly manner.
General orders being issued soon after our arrival, by
Lord Frederick Fitzclarence, commanding the troops in
garrison, the 17th regiment was taken on the strength oi
the garrison, and detailed to furnish the following duties,
viz., main and lower dock-yard.

The guards with the colours of the regiment that fur-
nishe. he main guard are trooped every day at 10 o'clock,
on the Grand Esplanade (Sundays and wet days excepted).
I was detailed for the main guard, which consists of one
captain, one subaltern, one seigeant, two corporals, one
drummer and twenty-four privates ; my post being on the
ramparts, in rear of the guard-house, where I had a fine

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100

BELT^TINO THE MAIN QUIBD.

view of the harbour, the roadstead of Spithead, and
the Isle of Wight, on the coast of which the walls of the
royal residence at Osborne House are seen sparkling
among the trees. I, being a grenadier, was selected for
this most important post. I had been well broken in to
sentry duty by this time, and was not so easily frightened
at my post as when I was on sentry over the corpse at
the hospital on Dover Heights. Hundreds of the fairest
daughters of England, dressed in the height of fashion,
some in elegant equipages, with liveried servants, while
other high-born damsels rode prancing palfreys, accom*
panied by the^r chaperons take up a position as close as
they can get to the saluting point on the esplanade, to
witness the imposing ceremony of parading the guard
and seeing them march past in review order when troop-
ing the colours, and to see the main guard relieved, dur-
ing which the bands discourse sweet music in front of the
guard-room, to the great delight of the citizens who as-
semble in hundreds, yea, in thousands, to witness this
grand military demonstration. Our drum-major who was
the most conspicuous individual on parade, consequent on
his situation m front of the band, though a small man,
was emulous of his position, therefore turned cut on all
occasions in a manner that reflected credit on himself as
well as the corps to which he belonged. His smart,
straight, soldierly appearance when in full dress, with his
grenadier's busby and long tasselled, gold-headed staff,
surmounted with the Royal Tige» of India, attracted the
admbation of the spectators, as he twisted his staff ip

l.,

THE "MAIN DOCK."

101

a most fantastical manner, keeping time to the music aa
he approached the saluting point. But in his efforts to
gain "applause by the agility of his movements, he let the
staff fall to the ground. This unforseen accident, how>
ever, did not disturb his equilibrium, and instead of creat-
ing censure, it drew forth the greatest applause from the
spectators and officers, by the professional manner in
which he drew his sword and saluted as if nothing had
happened, as he passed the general officer who stood at
the flagstaff.

The following day, after being relieved, a general field
day of the whole of the troops in garrison was ordered to
assemble on Southsea Common, under the command ol
General Fitzclarence. Those reviews took place once a
week. My next guard was the ** main dock/' Ihis is also
a captain's guard of great responsibility ; the sentries are
very strict on their posts, being furnished with counter-
sign, "number," and "parole," no person is allowed to pass
a post without being able to give them to the sentry.
I There are a great many mechanics and labourers employed
here; it is at present two hundred and ninety-three
acres in extent — one of the largest in the country. Of
this immense naval establishment, the most noteworthy,
if not the most recent features are, the mast and rope
houses, hemp stores, rigging stores, sail-loft, and dry
docks, spacious enough to admit th^ largest vessels, and
offering every facility for their speedy repair ; of the vari-
loui building-slips, one of them roofed and covered in, is
ISO large that three or four vessels can be in process of
Iconstruction at the same time.

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W^t'---'

102

QUEEN VtCTORlA AND PBINCB ALBERT.

When Queen Victoria and Prince Albert opened a neiv
basin in those docks, in 1848, our grenadier companjr
formed a guard of honour to Her Majesty and the Prince, '|
We also formed a guard of honour on the occasion of Uet
Majesty and Prince Albert landing at Qosport the same
year, when they inspected our company and compli-
mented Captain Bourchier on the clean and soldier-like
appearance of his company. I remember His Royal High*
ness Prince Albert perfectly well ; he was dressed in a
Field Marshal's uniform, with a broad blue silk sash ov«r
his left shoulder. He was one of the finest-looking men I
ever saw, and) must have b6en six feet four inches in
height. The dockyard also contains tho residence of the
superintending officers and a school of naval architectura
Portsmouth being the rendezvous for the British fleet,
and strongly garrisoned by troops, together with the
large number of mechanics and dock-yard labourers is an
exceedingly lively business town, and the hotels and
public-houses there appear to do a thriving business. We
liked this station very much, although the guards came
often. We bathed once a week on the beach of Southsea
Common, which is now a fashionable watering-place. A
band plays here once a week, in the afternoon. After
we had been stationed here about six months we got the
route to proceed to Chatham, where we arrived on the
18th October, and v^ere stationed in Chatham Barracka
But though Portsmouth was a strict garrison, Chatham
was much stricter ; there are so many recruits here be-
longing to regiments in India. They are formed into i

GRAND SHAM FIOBT.

103

provisional battalion. We were, therefore, looked to as^
an example for the recruits. Here the dock-yard duty
is carried on much the same as at Portsmouth, but with
a little more humbugging. We had been employed here
a good deal in preparing for a siege operation at Si.
Mary's Barracks, above Brompton, in building a stockade
and throwing up earthworks and trenches. In the sum-
mer we had a grand sham-fight, the troops being formed
into two armies, one attacking, the other defending. We
had been practising for the siege for over two months be-
fore it came off, carrying scaling ladders and moving
round by Gillingham with them to the ditches of the
fortification. This was verj' onerous and trying work.
as the ladders were -both clumsy . and heavy. Having
been well practised in the art of besieging a fortress, and
everything necessary in readiness, our proficiency was
put to the test on the Queen's birthday, 1849, when the
grand day came off. Over ten thousand people were
present, most of whom came down f lom London to wit-
ness this military demonstration, wliicli came off splen-
didly, when the spectators returned home peaceably and
well pleased. The troops then marched to their respect-
ive quarters, very much begrimed with smoke and mud.

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^^■•, ■ ^

^ CHAPTER VII.

ROUra TO OANTEBBURT — THE SEKOEANX's 8T0RT — THE QITAKSR'il
8T0BT — THE MARCH — ARRIVAL— CHATHAM — DOCKTARD-FDRLOUOH
TO LONDON — THAT GREAT CITY — JOIN IfY OOMPANT-^SHEERNESS—
THE DOCKYARD— GET MARRIED — ROUTE TO WBEDON — ^ROUTB TO
Z&BI.AND.

FEW days afterwards we got the route for Can-
terbury. On June 2nd we marched from Chat-
ham up High street, with a band playing at the head
of the regiment. We were accompanied by a large crowd
of the citizens, outside the town, who gave us three
hearty cheers on parting as usual on such occasions. The
order was then given to " march at ease," and soon after
followed the word, " march easy," when the ranks were
opened out and the men allowed to talk, sing, smoke, and
tell stories, in order, as the old adage has it, to shorten
the journey. Many of the old soldiers, who had lately
arrived from India, had frequently amused the re-1
cruiis, after lights were out every night in the baiTack-
room, before going to sleep, by their wonderful stories
about their experience in India, during the many battles
and campaigns in which they participated. One sergeant,
in particular, named Wright, was famous as a story-teller.

>■ >.;^.<- ■-■'.

M-.'-^

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W-';

THE SEKfiEANT^S STOBT.

109

The other sergeants and old soldiers always called hiin'
"Bob," and sometimes "White-headed Bob," when he
was off duty, consequent on his hair being white. But
when he was on duty none dare address him more famil-
iarly than " Sergeant Wright." He never suffered any of
the recruits to address him at any time by any other ap>
pellation than " Sergeant." As we marched along at our
ease, smoking and chatting, I ventured to ask him to
tell us a story about India, and that I would carry his
fusil while he was telling it, in order to give his lungs
more freedom while he was spinning the yam.

" All right, Tom," said he to* me yery familiarly, " I will
tell a story for the amusement and information of the
boys, as you are so willing to carry my fusil"

After clearing his throat by a few short coughs, he
commenced (for the edification of my gentle reader I
shall try and transcribe the sergeant's story as near as I
can remember it): ,

" No sooner had the Afghan war been terminated than
the treacherous conduct of the Ameers of the Scinde
country brought down upon themselves the British army
ander Sir Charles Napier. A desperate battle Was fought
near Hyderabad, which resulted in the defeat of the
Ameers. On December 14th, 1845, th6 Sikh chiefs, with
an immense army, crossed the Sutledge of Lahore, which
separated us from the Punjab, and attacked our position
at Moodkee. The struggle was most desperate for the
time it lasted ; but though the enemy had more than five
times our numbers, the victory was decided in our favour.

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BOMBARDMENT OF LABOBfi.

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Several battles followed in rapid succession. The Sikhs
incurred great losses in each engagement. In the battles
of Aliwal and Sobraon the most terrific carnage took place,
men were mowed down by hundreds, and hundreds upon
hundreds were drowned in attempting to cross the Sut-
ledge. Our success was complete, but it was not achieved
without an immense sacrifice of officers and men. The
army immediately marched upon Lahore, and commenced
to bombard the capital, and after a prolonged siege of sev-
eral months, we succeeded in carrying the place by storm»
As our troops rushed in on one side the inhabitants made
a precipitate ex|t on the other side, for a great fear had
seized them, lest they should fall victims to the rapacity
of the British soldiers, whom they believed to be infidels,
therefore no mercy could be expected from their hands.
But all the Sepoys that defended the fortress who were
not killed or wounded were made prisoners, and the
wounded cared for, and their wounds dressed by our doc-
torsi The contents of the fortifications and the town had
been declared confiscated and the prize of the victorious
army. Then came the more systematic collecting of the
booty by the commissariat officer, assisted by several other
officers and non-commissioned officers from each of the
regiments, who acted as a prize committee. Leaving aside
the custom of war in like cases, this confiscation was not
held an undue exercise of the right of conquest, even by
the people themselves, for they had looked for sack and
massacre, and the razing of the city to the ground ; not
for resistance to a foreign power, but for cruelty, treach-

■« ■'.

IN SEABOB OF TRBAStJBE.

107

* Hrl

eiy, anarchy and the murdering of intiocent women and
children. Being a fortified town, the collecting together
of the valuables couid be gone on with leisurely, for no-
thing was allowed in or out the gates without a pass or
close scrutiny. A few of the best charactered men, under
the charge of non-commissioned officers, were told off for
the purpose of collecting the treasure and hand it over to
the officer whose duty it was to receive it. Of course, if
a man found a large diamond or a pearl, whether he put it
into his own pocket or took it to the officer, had to be left to
his honour and conscience. But our consciences were very
pliable, and could stretch to a prodigious extent. We had
searched all the principal places where there was likely to
he found any treasure of silver or gold and jewels, or other
valuable property, such as the palace of the king and
houses of the princes and chief noblemen and bankers.
We had scoured and ransacked the most likely places so
closely that the officers thought they had not left any of
the town unsearched. The men were then allowed to go
off wherever they suspected any property was'to be found.

" ' Come along, comrade,' said I to a man named Mickey
Duffey, ' and let us try our luck.*

"'All right, sergeant,' said he.

" So away we started by ourselves in search of treas-
ure to a part of the city which I had my eye on as a rich
quarter where many rich Ameers' elegantly furnished
residences stood on a rising ground, much like a terrace.
As we approached this part of the city the silence be*
came almost oppressive. The dead stillness hung about

'i-'i

'-•liva

^mi

'"^H

'<^H

^^^^Mk'^.

i^^M

^^^H 1;'J

^H^kF

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W'. .

108

A DESERTED CITT.

ti^'

uft, dung round us with a dreary weight. On the popu-
lous city had come the loneliness and desolation of the
desert In the houses was no longer heard the familiar
sound of the human voice, nor the sound of the smith's
hammer. Our feeling of desolation deepened as we got
into the narrow streets, some only ten or twelve feet
wide, with the houses rising to a great height on either
side, and presenting for long distances only a bare wall
to the street. The air was close and oppressive. We
could see from one end of the long narrow streets to the
^ other. The sound of our footsteps made strange echoes
down there. It was a relief to make a detour through a
more open place where there was some sign of the recent
conflict, to take off our thoughts from the brooding
silence. There had been a sharp conflict in the next
street we entered. The sides of the houses had been torn
down in some places by round shot and shell, while other
places showed marks of heavy volleys of musketry on
the whitewashed walls. The cats glared at us from the
tops of walls like young tigers. They had grown to a
monstrous size. They looked equally as fierce, cruel and
bloodthirsty as tigers, for they had been revelling on
human flesh. We came in contact with many loathsome
carcases of beasts of burden, that had fallen in the m^lde,
and which poisoned the air all around them. As we
penetrated further, we seemed to have passed away from
the outer world, though surrounded by the habitations of
men. It was strange to pass through the wicket of a
lofty gateway and find ourselves alone in a silent court-

..'■,-^i^7^/'"p^rf;'. ■■■: ™Tn

*'"V^

SIGNS or HABITATIOV.

109

ywrd surrounded by empty rooms. In one of these ;1^e
beauty of the architectural design, the arcades, with their
high arches resting on solid pillars of hewn stone, the
carved and figured balconies, supported by elaborately
chiselled abutments with figures of the gods, each one of
which was a fine piece of sculpture, and the beautiful
panels of carved stone, showed that it had belonged to
gome rich Mohammedan nobleman or Hindoo banker.

" ' There should be some treasure here,' said I to Mickey,
<the upper rooms on that side, with their lace-like marble
lattices, signs of jealous privacy, I know it must be the
Zenana/ At the same time, the quick eye of Mickey de-
tected signs of habitation in a small room in one comer
of the court-yard.

" ' There is some person in there,' said he pointing in
the direction A flight of steps led up to it ; which we
ascended very cautiously. The door at the top, leading
into the chamber, was partially hidden by a heap of
debris, apparently placed there to block up the passage,
this we soon removed, and found the door tightly closed,
and securely bolted on the inside. We tried to force it
open, but it resisted all our efforts.

" ' I know there is some person inside,' said Mickey, * I
can lioar the breathing.'

" We called to the person loudly through the key-hole,
to open the door, but there was no answer. We then
threatened to break open the door with the butt end oi
our muskets, and forcibly demonstrated our intention by
a united whack with our guns on the centre of the door

i'-^S

;iS

• <'

110

▲ UYUSQ SKELETON.

l;\ V

which gave very perceptible symptoms of giving way.
The door was then slowly opened, when an old man
peered out at us. The wild, frightened, hungry look in hii
eyes, startled us. His long white hair, and beard, showed
that he was a very old man. But the macerated cheeks
and lank stomach, the protruding ribs, the wrinkled skin,
and cadaverous aspect, were not due to old age alone. Hia
long lean fingers, his fleshless arms and legs, were like
those of a skeleton. He was a very tall man, and as he
stood on his long, lean shanks, his hip-bones stood sharply
out. The poor wretch shivered and trembled from
weakness, from hunger, and from fear. He looked as if
he was at the last extremity of starvation. He told us
in trembling accents that he was left behind when the
rest of the people had fled for their lives. He was a feeble
old man, and could not move fast enough, and therefore,
was obliged to stay behind and trust to Allah. They
had left a little flour behind, which he had made into a
kind of cake that kept him from starving. He was now
sick unto death, and a poor, feeble old man. If he did
not get some nourishment soon, he should surely die.
We told him that we would see that he was well fed and
taken care of, if he would show us where the inhabitants
had hidden their treasure ; for I well knew from my past
experience that to bury money and jewels and precious
stones in the ground, has always been a custom in the
east. A hole in the earth is the favourite bank. After
great persuasion, and promises of protection, he at length
very reluctantly consented to show us some hidden treas-

■ri-j^V^ji'J-^ ij-'V J r'j^^.XA

■fi-/i.:-

' t

▲ SECBITPASaAGl.

Ill

are. So he led the way through many intricate 8|i1>
terranean passages, where the foul air alqiost took our
breath away. At last, after traversing these dark pas-
sages for about a quarter of an hour, the old man came to
a door at the end of a dark passage, which he opened by .
means of a spring which he pressed in the wall, and the
door opened, and we found ourselves in a richly cushion-
ed chamber, which was lighted by means of musketry
port-holes in the wall.

" ' Mickey' said I, ' if the old fellow locked us in here,
we would be out of mess to-morrow, for we could nevei
get out.

" * Be-dad, then* tis thrue for ye,* replied Mickey, 'shure
I'll wait outside anyhow, till ye find out from the thafe
where the money-bags are hid.'

" I have often thought since, that only for Mickey's
presence of mind to stand outside, that the old hermit
would have shut us both in if he got the- chance. But
seeing that he was foiled in his plan, he then removed
the grate of the fire-place, and revealed an iron ring
which lay back against the wall. He told me to take
hold of the ring and pull, which I did, when the hearth-
stone, which was on hinges rose up, revealing a dark
winding stairs of stone steps, which he told us to go
down.*

" * No thank you, old cock,* said I, * we would much
sooner not.*

" We were now confirmed in our mind that the old man
was determined if we went down to close the fla^ over us

•. '^'k

rii

lis

THE OLD MAM fOILED.

!•< '

f •'

I • *

and bury us alive. Therefore we declined to descend the
steps, but decided to retrace our steps and inform the
officer of what we had seen, taking the old man with us
partly by force for he did not want to come, seeing that
he was foiled in his device to incarcerate us in his under-
ground prison, where most likely many a European has
been imprisoned till death released him from the horrid
dungeon. The old man prostrated himself on the ground
in the direction of Mecca and called upon Allah to save
him from the infidels, and begged of us and prayed in a
most supplicating manner not to take him away from hb
home. But all his prayers and entreaties were of do
avail.

" ' Come along, ye ould sinner,* cried Mickey,* and lave
off yer whinin' I tell ye, or be the Rock o' Cashel I'll be
afther grindin' yer ould bpnes into powdher to blow up
this infernal pandermouium ! '

" We then forced him along with us, but seeing that he
was so old and feeble, Mickey took him upon his back
and trotted along till we arrived at the officers' bungalow,
where we informed the officer of our adventure. The
officer then ordered the sergeant of the guard to retain
the old man a prisoner and take good care of him. My-
•elf and Mickey then led the way back again to the old
man's house, accompanied by the officer and twelve men,
taking a lantern with us. On reaching the chamber which
gave access to the winding stairs, I cautioned the men to
be careful not to shut the door of the chamber which
closed tightly with a soring on the outside. We then

WE DESCEND THB SHAFT.

118

held a consultation as to wK'^> wouUl drBcend the shafb
first. Our excitement rose to fever point. Only one man
could descend at a time the hole being so small. Here
wa& probably the entrance to long underground galleries,
such as those which AUadin got into in the ' Arabian
Nights' in which stood the trees on whose branches hung
rubies and emeralds, and pearls and diamonds, and great
sapphires. Visions rose before me of great wealth, with
a castle elegantly furnished in the County Carlow, with
carriages and liveried servants, and a large estate with
blood horses, hunters and racers, with a small army of
grooms and outriders. At last, after a long consultation,
Mickey exclaimed aloud :

"'Be jabftrs, boys, I'll go down, iure I often went through
iuch places be meself av an evenln' at home inould Ireland,
where we used to make the potheen whiskey away undher
the rocks, where the peelers could never find us ; God be
wid them ould times, bud no matther, here goes/ so saying
Mickey prepared to descend.

" * Here, Mickey,* said the officer, ' take this double-
barrel horse-pistol in your hand instead of that long
musket, you can do nothing with that in such a narrow
passage.*

" * Faith 'tis thnie for ye sur,* replied Mickey, seizing
the pistol eagerly, ' this will be handier entoirely.'

" He then descended with the lantern in one hand and

the loaded pistol in the other, succeeded by the others, one

after the other. After descending the slmft a long way

we began to get alarmed at its immense depth, a little
H

'.S,|

'■'■Pi

114

WE Ri^TREAT.

(

while longer and we heard a bustle as if men were mov-
ing beneath, our hearts beat with anxiety, not knowing
where we were going, or, what was beneath. The noise
; became more perceptible as we neared the bottom. As
Mickey entered the chamber below he was challenged, in
the country bat language, ' who comes there,' to which
he replied ' a friend ' with that a loud report of a musket
followed, and Mickey fell dead at the bottom of the shaft,
and the lantern went out leaving us in Egyptian darkness.
I called Mickey, whereupon another report followed, the
bullet striking the wall close to where I stood on the
lower step of the shaft.

"'Retire boys,' said the officers, there must be a stroDg
force of the enemy guarding some valuables at the bottom.'

" We then ascended to the top of the shaft again, where
we decided on reporting the circumstance to the officer
commanding, \7hereupon myself and Isaac Hawley (who
is now here in the ranks and can testify to my assertions)
were dispatched for that purpose. After making the re-
port, the alarm was sounded, when the regiment assembled,
then the colonel explained the difficulty that had to be
surmounted, and called for one hundred volunteers to go
down the shaft. When the required number stepped to
the front like one man, and the remainder were dismissed,
but told to keep themselves in readiness when called upon.
The party were then marched off under the command of
Captain Bourchier, preceded by Hawley and myself,
and Ps^ddy Sweeney (who was then pioneer corporal),
with his dark lantern, which was especially constructed

' 1

^^' "■ "-"m'.
'■'J^

AH ENCOUNTER WITH SEPOYS.

115

for the purpose of entering subterranean passages, pits or
any dark or dangerous place.

" On arrival at the chamber, wher* our men guarded
the mouth of the shaft, several of the men volunteered to
go down first.

" * No, boys,' exclaimed Pat. Sweeney, * I being a
pioneer, it is my duty to go in front ; therefore, with the
captain's kind permission, I will go first.'

" ' All right, my brave fellow,* replied the captain, * I
am thankful to have such men in my company. Tou
can proceed at once, but be cautious.'

" ' Oh, faith, niver fear, sur,' replied Paddy, as he de-
scended the hole, with his dark lantern in one hand and
his cutlass in the other, closely followed by the other men
of the party, one after the other, with their swords and
bayonets in their hands.

" On reaching the bottom, Paddy extended his lantern
away from him about three or four feet, by means of a
telescope handle, which deceived the enemy as to his own
whereabouts. As he threw the light on them a loud re-
port followed, the bullet striking on the wall close to the
lantern, when our men rushed on the enemy With their
swords and bayonets, and cut them to pieces before they
could reload or defend themselves, Paddy throwing the
light into the eyes of the enemy during the contest.

" The twelve Sepoys who so ably defended the Sultan's
treasure were all cut down and captured, though they
fought bravely. Several of our men got badly wounded
b the mSl^, and poor Mickey Duffy got killed. This

hsM

116

BIO BONANZA.

chamber was found to be a guard-room, where a guard
of Sepoys mounted once a month to guard and watch the
Sultan's treasures. On examination, we found an iron
door like that of a large safe, but we had no key to open
it, nor could we burst or break it open, it was so massive
and strong — whereupon a half-dozen men were sent for
sledges, crow-irons, and a couple of engineers and the ar-
moury sergeant. When these artizans and tools arrived,
the armourer sergeant tried to pick the lock, but failed in
the attempt. We then set to work with the sledge-ham-
mers, and crow irons, and after an hour's hard pounding,
strength and \ perseverance, it gave way, when a large
chamber presented itself, where untold treasure was
stowed away most carefully on shelves along the interior,
and in iron cases with patent padlocks, which were soon
burst open by the united strength of the armourer sergeant
and the engineers. Here were thick massive bai-s and
rolls of solid gold and silver. Here were rings for the
fingers and rings for the toes, ear-rings and nose-rings,
gold and silver chains for the neck, gold chains to wear
round the waist, necklaces of many kinds and sizes,
studded and set with the richest of diamonds, sapphires,
emeralds and pearls. Boxes filled with all sorts of valua-
able jewellery and precious stones, large bags of gold
mohrs and other gold and silver coin lay on the shelves
all round the chamber. This was a nest worth finding.

" The old man whom we first detected was left behind
as a special guard over the entrance to the treasure, well
knowing that such a feeble old man would be the most

1 '

DIVIDINQ THE SPOILS.

117

likely to escape the vigilance of the captors. The yam he
told us about being left behind was all bosh. But hd
acted his part well, the cunning old hypocrite.

" The treasure was removed by fatigue parties under
the charge of the commissariat officer. It was afterwards
forwarded to England, where it was valued and divided,
one-half being secured to the Government, and the other
half distributed among the whole army of the Punjab
as prize money, which amounted to £20 each man — the
officers and non-commissioned officers, of course, getting a
great deal more, according to their rank."

The sergeant's story was scarcely finished as we neared
a wayside tavern, when the commanding officer gave the
command " March to attention ! " Pipes were put out,
ranks closed up, and all were silent, save the measured
tread of the troops and the jingle of accoutrements. Then
followed the command "Fix bayonets," and the band
struck up, the men keeping step to the music.

As the regiment marched up to the tavern, we were
halted, then piled arms, and allowed to break oft for half
an hour, in order to get refreshments at the tavern, where
the landlord had everything ready that we required, ac-
cordhig to instructions previously received.

Having indulged freely in the good things provided By
the hospitable host, we resumed the march and arrived in
the pretty little village of Greenstreet, about four o'clock,
where we were billeted that night, and were treated with
the greatest kindness and regard by the citizens. On
arriv^, the regiment was told oflT in parties to suit the

, <\

lis

A OOOD DINNER.

accommodation in the billets. My party, which consisted
of one sergeant and four privates, were all well-propor-
tioned and prepossessing young fellows, and thorough
specimens of the British soldier in physical appearance.
We were billeted on a good-natured, jolly, but well to do
farmer, who lived about a mile from the village. Having
been shown to our rooms, which were scrupulously clean,
we hastened to divest ourselves of knapsack, arms, and
accroutrements, which we cleaned, ready for next parade,
ere we dressed for dinner. By the time we had made our
toilet, dinner was announced, when we were ushered into
a good sized dining-room by the hostess. Bright and blue
were the eyes And sleek the tresses of the two fair damsels
who waited on us, and many were the alluring glances and
insinuating compliments which replied to the sergeant's
marvellous flow of speech and volubility of tongue, in
open admiration and profuse flattery which he bestowed
on the hostess and our fair attendants. Perhaps an ignor-
ance of the customs of our entertainers, and a consequent
discreet loar of annoying or ofiending them in the least,
restrained us all except the sergeant, from talking during
the meal, or perhaps we found ample food for occupation
in the plentiful supply of dainties which our hostess had
placed before us. Having done justice to the superabund-
ance of good things supplied by our fair hostess, the
table was cleared and the cloth removed by the fair at-
tendants, who placed two glasses before each of us. By
this time, the fanner, who had been absent when we ar-
rived, now entered the room, bearing in each hand a largo

A GENIAL HOST.

Il9

brown pitcher of old English ale, which he placed at the
head of the table in front of the sergeant, and said, " gen-
tlemen, charge your glasses, and drink heartily. I know
you must be thirsty and weaned after so long a march,
you are all welcome. It's the first time that I have had
the honour of entertaining under my roof such noble spe-
cimens of our most gracious Majesty's army, drink her
health in a flowing bumper, may God bless her." We all
responded gratefully and demonstrated our desire to ac-
cept of his hospitality by charging our glasses and drank
the Queen first, and afterwards that of our host and
hostess, and another to our fair attendants. I can scarcely
tell how many toasts were drunk ; suffice it to say that
every time the pitchers were emptied, the farmer rung the
bell for John, the hii*ed man, to have them replenished
again. The sergeant being a good story-teller, he enter-
tained the company by telling his experience in India,
while others of the party told many amusing anecdotes.
Nor was the host back ward in supplying food for laughter.
Ho told us a very amusing story about a quaker,who sent
his watch to be repaired. I will transcribe it as near as I
possibly can for the edification of my gentle reader, it
runs thus ; —

•..■4.

THE QUAKER S STOET.

" Friend John — I have once more sent my erroneous
watch, which wants thy friendly care and correction;
the last time it was at thy school, he was no ways bene-
fited by thy instructions. I find by the index of his

120

THE QUAKER'S WATCH.

tongue he is a liar, and that his motions are wavering and
unsettled ; which make me believe he is not right in tb«
inward man. T mean the main-spring. I would haye
thee prove and try him with thy adjusting tools of truth,
that if possible thou mayst drive him from the error of
his ways ; imagining his body to be foul, and the whole
mass corrupted, purge him with thy cleansing stick from
all pollution, so that he may vibrate and circulate accor-
ding to truth ; I will board him with thee a few days
and pay thee for his board when thou requirest it. In
thy late bill thou charged me with the one eighth of a
pound sterling, which I will assuredly pay thee when thy
work deserveist it Friend, when thou coiTectest him, do
it without passion, lest by severity thou drivest him to
destruction. 1 would have thee let him visit the sim's
motion, and learn him his true calculation table and
equation ; and when thou findcst him conformable to
that, send him home with a just bill of moderation and it
shali be faithfully remitted to thee by thy true friend,

" Obadiah Prim."

By degrees, as the hour grew later, and the strong
ale seemed perceptibly to get their spirits up by the
quantity poured down, the conversation changed into
one universal clatter. Some told their achievements by
sea, and others told their feats by land. At ^ast the
sergeant, who loved talking as well as the others, and who
for the last half hour had been vainly endeavouring to
obtain attention, seeing that the wind was completely
taken out of his sails, and that he could not get a word

THE SOLDIER S DREAM OF HOME.

I ■

in edgeways, cried out " silence'my boys! it's getting late,
and we shall have the attention of the orderly officer
directed to us, if you don't make less noise." The ser-
geant then tried to make himself agreeable by telling an
amusing story, but failed to draw attention to his yam.
" What, Dickey Melville," said he, "are you still gabbling
down there at the foot of the table, while your betters
are talking ? As sure as my name's sergeant Wright, I'll
clioke you with this here brown pitcher, the contents of
which you have thrice guzzled. But if you will make a
noise, come forward, and sing a good song, I know you
can do it. You see sir," said he, (turning to our host) " that
we are not without our pretentions to the fine arts." At
this order, Dickey, who prided himself on his vocal powera,
and was anxious to display his ability before so refined an
audience, started to his feet and commenced ; —

THE SOLDIER'S DREAM.

Our bugles sang truce, for the night-cloud had lowered
And the sentinel stars set their watch in the sky ;

And thoiisands had sunk on the ground overpower'di
The weary to sleep and the wounded to die.

When reposing that night on my pallet of straw,
By the wolf-scaring fagot that guarded the slain.

At the dead of the night a sweet vision I saw,
And thrice ere the morning I dreamt it again.

Methought from the battle-field's dreadful array.
Far, far, I had roamed on a desolate track ;

rTwas autumn, — and sunshine arose on the way
To the home of my fathers, that welcomed me back*

''II

'•1»^.',

12S A KIQHT'8 OuBOUSB.

•

I fltw through th« pleMUkt fields, traTened so oft
In lifeV morning nuuroh when mj boiom wm yonng ;

I heard my own mountain goats bleating aloft,
And I knew the eweet strain that the oom-reapers sung.

Then pledged we the wine oup, and fondly I swore

From my home and my weeping friends never to part ;
My little ones kiss'd me a thousand times o'er,
j And my wife sobbed aloud in her fulness of heart.

** Stay— stay with us ! — rest I — thou art weary and worn I *
And fain was their war-broken soldier to stay ;

But sorrow returned with the dawning of mom,
And the yoioe in my dreaming ear melted away.

^ The applaiJse which rewarded this effort was highly
prratifying and encouraging to Dickey, who was prevailed
upon to favour the company once more. The sergeant's
turn came next, and they soon found it an economy of
labour to blend their voices together in a duet, which sue*
ceeded in putting our generous entertainer to sleep, for the
unwonted fatigues of the day, together with a little over-
indulgence of the social glass, had produced a soporific
effect, and at length his vicinity was indicated by certain
nasal sounds proceeding from his recumbent position in
the great arm-chair, which he had recently taken possess-
ion of on finding his equilibrium undecided in attempting
to perambulate across the room for some purpose best
known to himself, and testified the profound state of oar
worthy host s repose. The star of the east soon began to
eclipse the fading radiance left by the moon, which had
■unk below the horizon, and the twinkling orb paled in

we resu

ARBIVAL AT CAKTBBBUBT.

its turn before the broad disc of the sun, which pre-
Hently cast its bright, warm rays in through the window
ere the little group retired for a short nap before the
warning bugle had called us to resume the march. At
6:30 the following morning, the assembly sounded, and
we resumed the march at seven, with light hearts, but
many aching heads, consequent on the over-indulgence of
the soul-stirring element so freely imbibed the previous
evening, through the kindness and hospitality of the citi-
zens, who regaled the defenders of their soil as becometh
Her Majesty's loyal subjects. After a march of five hours
along a dusty road, we arrived at Canterbury by noon,
where we were met by several of our old acquaintances,
who were much pleased to see us back again, and accom-
panied us to the barracks. Soldiers on the line of march
are free from stoppages from their pay; they receive
their daily pay entire. They are also allowed ten-pence
per diem for dinner, which is paid to the landlord of the
house by the pay-sergeant, and the landlords are bound to
furnish a hot dinner for that sum. Their usual custom,
however, is to provide a dinner for which that is not suf-
ficient payment. It is characteristic of the innkeepers of
England to give soldiers a good hot dinner, irrespective
of the price at which they are bound by law to furnish it*
But, going into barracks, no marching money for that day
is allowed. Every soldier in the service has at some time
complained of this. Going into a cold, empty barracks*
where no one has preceded them to prepare fire or food,
tbe^; do not receive the extra allowance where of ftU

124

OHATHAM.

places it is most requisite. However, it is an attribuii
of a British soldier to be equal to any emergency, the
cooks were soon at their posts, extemporizing a morsel to
stay the gnawing worm till a more substantial repast
could be prepared.

During our stay here of three months we had pretty
easy times, the men getting sixteen nights in bed be-
tween guards, and hardly any fatigues, but any amount
of drills.

On the 5 til September, ISID, we marched back again
to Chatham, arriving there at 5 p. m. on the 6th, after
two days* haf d marching, with a full kit, weighing fifty
pounds, on our backs. The march tried many of our men,
the weather being so very sultry, and the roads dusty.
Several of the men fell out of the rauks along the road,
to be picked up by the rear-guard and placed on the bag-
gage waggons. Chatham is one of the largest garrison
towns in England, and has a combined force of about five
thousand troops permanently stationed there. In a mil-
itary point of view, the lines of detached forts connect-
ing constitute a fortification of great strength, and the
whole is regarded as a perfect flank defence for London,
in the event of an invader seeking to attack the capital
from the south coast ; the place is also defended by some
strong forts on the Med way.

Near Chatham is Fort Pilt, a military hospital and
strong fort, barracks for infantry, marines, artillery and
engineers, a park of artillery and magazines, store-house
and depot on a large scale. In a naval sense, it is one

' /

ON FUBLOUGH.

125

of the principal royal ship-building establish men tn in
Great Britain, and a visit to it never fails to impress the
stranger with a sense of the naval power of the country.
The dock -yard is nearly two miles in length, containing
several building slips and wet docks sufficiently capacious
for the largest ships, and the whole is traversed in every
direction by tram waysi for locomotives. There are, on
an average, 3,500 shipwrights, caulkers, joiners, sawyers,
mill- Wrights, sail makers, rope-makers, riggers and la-
bourers, with 5,000 soldiers, sailors and marines, mak-
ing it lively for public-houses and saloons in the evening

About the middle of December, I applied to the cap-
tain of my company for a furlough. Having no offence
against me since I joined the regiment, he had no trouble
in getting it granted. J had saved most of my pay since
I joined, and now had sufficient funds, with the amount
allowed me from the captain in advance, to bear my
expenses during my absence from the regiment ; and as
all my near relatives in Leitrim were either dead or had
emigrated to America, I had no particular place to spend
my furlough, and being stationed so near London, I made
up my mind to visit that gi*eat city, and avail myself of
the opportunity of visiting once more, at my leisure,
some of the principal places of note and amusement.
My furlough was dated from 16th December, and expired
16th January.

I left the Sun Pier, at Chatham, by a penny steam-
boat, to Stroud Station, thence by rail to Gravesend, and
boat to Blackwall ; from there by rail to Frenchurch

120

INTERESTING STATISTICS.

street, where I took an omnibus to Camden Hill Villa
Kensington, where I stayed, on invitation, with a friend
during my sojourn in London. During my ride through
the city on the outside of the 'bus, I had a splendid view
of the perfect labyrinth of streets and squares, ware-
houses and stores, churches and palaces, which I strongly
recommend all strangers in London to see. Here I am,
riding through the vast metropolis of England, where
nearly four millions of people of all classes, grades and
conditions, find a home ; a city that covers eighty thous-
and acres of ground; where is consumed fifty five mil-
lion gallons of beer and porter, with three million gallons
of ardent spirits, annually poured out to satisfy unnatu-
ral and voracious appetites. It takes thirty thousand
tailors to make their clothes, forty thousand shoemakers
to take care of their feet, and fifty thousand milliners
and dressmakers to attend to the ladies' dresses. Here an
army of twenty-five thousand servants are daily employed,
and the smoke of the coal fires darkens the country for
more than twenty miles around. The splendour of the
magnificent buildings and shops, carriages, cabs, omnibuses
and vehicles of every description, with crowds of pedes-
trians, impressed me with surprise beyond my powers of
description. I got off at Silver street, after paying the
conductor six-pence for my fare, and walked to my friend's
house, where I was received in a most cordial manner.

During my stay in London, I visited many of the prin-
cipal places in the city, among which were the following,

128^

PUBLIC PARKS, COLUMNS AND STATUES.

viz. : — St James* Palace, an irregular cluster of buildings
used for court purposes, but not as the Queen's London
residence ; Buckingham Palace, the Queen's London
residence, a large quadrangular building; Marlborough
House, now the residence of the Prince of Wales ; Ken-
sington Palace and Gardens ; House of Parliament, a vast
structure, which has cost £3,000,000, perhaps the finest
building in the world, applied to national purposes, the
river front is 900 feet long ; Westminster Hfill, a noble
old structure of which the main hall is 290 feet by 68
and 110 feet high; the Horse Guards, the official resi-
dence of the Oommander-in-chief ,with an arched entrance
to St. James' Park, where, under the arches on each side
are two noble specimens of mounted sentries ; the Nation-
al Gallery, devoted to a portion of the nation's pictures,
in Trafalgar Square ; South Kensington Museum ; the
Guards' Barracks, Chelsea ; the General Post-Office,which
has a hall of 80 feet by 60, and 53 feet high, with a num-
ber of offices all around it. Of public columns and statues,
the chief of which interested me and took my attention
were the following: Nelson's Column, Trafalgar Square ;
and York Column, Waterloo Steps.*

Of the public parks in the Metropolis, the most impor
tant are Hyde Park, St. James' Park, the Green Park,
Regent's Park, Victoria Park, Kensington Park, all be-
longing to the nation, and are,of course, out of the build-
ers' hands. They are most valuable as "lungs" and

*Th« Albert Memorial, Hyde Park, has been erected aince.

THE GIN PALACES.

129

breathing places for great London. The Zoological Gar-
dens, Horticultural Gardens, and Botanic Gardens are
beautiful places, belonging to private societies. Of places
of amusement, there are three opera houses, about thirty
theatres, twelve music halls and concert rooms of large
(limensious (including Albert Hall), a much larger num*
ber of smaller ones, and very numerous exhibition rooms
of various kinds, including Madame Tussaud's exhibition
of wax ligures, in Baker Street, these greatly interested
and amused me.

The Gin Palaces, as they are styled in London, are very
numerous, and very attractive at night by the brilliancy
of the flaming light, emitted through a thick plate glass
window, shedding a bright lustre in front. Also a bright
light from a large gas lamp, which bears the sobriquet of
the establishment in conspicuous gilt letters in front of
this abode of Bacchus.

Allured like many others, by the display of lights in
front, I entered one of these gin palaces, which stands at
the corner of Fleet-street, more for the purpose of making
observations than for anything else. My admiration was
spontaneous when I beheld the interior of this Bacchan>
alian banqueting hall, wh'ch was brilliantly fitted up and
furnished regardless of expense. Behind a large half-
moon shaped counter six neatly dressed, handsome young
ladies were busily employed serving up the needful in a
professional manner to the thirsty tastes of the different
customers. On entering, I stepped up to the bar and
ordered a glass of lemonnde, wliich was quickly «orvod by

'Vj

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ISD

THEIR ENTICEMENTS.

one of the fair attendants. While I stood imbibing the
refreshing beverage, I took particular notice of the
amount of ardent spirits, as well as ale, beer and porter,
which was poured down the greedy throats of the thirsty
frequenters of this grand buffet, in the short time I had
stood there looking on. All classes of persons, both male
and female, from the merchant down to the tattered
squalid inebriate, go in here for their glass of ale, porter,
gin, rum or brandy, whichever their fancy dictates.
Flesh and blood can scarcely resist the allurements
thrown out to the unwary by these places of drunkenness
and debauchery. The tempter saj'^s to men and women
inwardly, as they pass by these glittering establishments,
come in, and walk this path with me, it is thymed and
primrosed, and the air is bewitched with the odours of the
hanging gardens of Heaven ; the rivers are rivers of wine,
and all you have to do is to drink thereof in chalices that
sparkle with diamond and amethyst. See ! It is aU
bloom and roseate hue and heaven. Oh ! if a cessation
to this stream of thirsty humanity could be effected by
moral suasion and example, we should see the orchestra
of the pit with hot breath blowing through a fiery trum-
pet, and the skeleton arms on drums of thunder and
darkness beating the chorus : " The end thereof is death."
I must not forget that my leave is nearly up ; my
furlough expires to-morrow night at tattoo. Alas, T am
sorry I cannot stay longer, time seems so short and flies
■0 fast in this great city, but as a soldier I must never
forget my duty. After bidding my friend good-bye, and

ORDERED TO SHEERNESS.

131

thanking him kindly for his generous hospitality, I started
back to join my regiment at Chatham, by the same route
I had come, arriving in barracks at tattoo, January 16th,
and duly reported myself to the orderly sergeant.

Whilst I had been on leave, my company (the grena-
diers) were under orders for detachment at Sheemess.
Accordingly, we embarked at the Sun Pier, and proceeded
down the Medway by steamer, on the 8th February,
arriving at our destination at 2 p.m., commanded by
Captain L. C. Bourchier, and were stationed in the same
barracks as the 72nd Highlanders, whose pipers kept play-
ing and droning Scotch airs, such as, "The Campbells
are coming," or, " Scots wha ha'e wi Wallace bled,'* or
" Bonnie Dundee," from reveilld till tattoo. This is also
another of England's royal ship-building establishments ;
there are nearly two thousand artizans and labourers
employed daily in the dock-yard. The streets, public-
houses, and concert rooms are continually, unfortunately,
crowded with sailors, soldiers, marines and dock-yard
hands, every evening, and not unfrequently a bar-room
row takes place between the soldiers and sailors or the
civilians ; on one occasion, I myself, saw two of our tallest
and ablest grenadiers peel off their jackets and clean out a
whole tap-room full of sailors and civilians who were
creating a disturbance, and that with their English fists.
The last time I was stationed in Canterbury, what did I
do but, like an Irishman, fall in love. I made the ac-
quaintance of a Kentish damsel, and promised to marry

her, with the understanding that I got the commanding

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132

1 TAKE UNTO MYSELF A WIFE.

officer s sanction. In order to carry out this promise, after
our company had been here about a month, I applied to
the colonel, of course through the captain of my company,
for leave to get married, which was granted, through the
strong recommendation and influence of my captain ; for
my readers must know that it is only a very small pro-
portion of soldiers (six to each company), and those only
of the best character and highly recommended, can get
leave to marry ; or if they marry without leave, they
have no claim to participate in any of the advantages and
privileges attached to the soldier who marries with leave
— such as quarters in barracks, and on foreign stations,
rations.

Having received the commanding officer's permission, I
was mpxried on the 3rd of April, 1850, at Minster, in the
Isle of Sheppy, Kent. My wife was then placed on the
strength of the regiment from that date. Now my hap-
piness was complete. I was struck out of the barrack-
room messing, and my wife and I became truly happy
together. Instead of walking down the town with my
comrades, I walked out with my wife in the evenings on
the ramparts in rear of our quarters, and gazed in wonder
at the massive fortifications and guns which encircle our
barracks. Here we could hear the soft strains of ex-
quisite music from the various military bands of marines,
w the regiments in garrison, or, more frequently, the pib-
roch of the 72nd Highlanders, or the sound of the even-
cng gun re-f echo over the surface of the waters from the
flag-ship which rode so majestically at anchor in the dis*

TOWN OF WEEDON.

133

tant roadstead, with the sun sinking into an ocean of fire,
and the white sails of the fishing smacks glistening in
the setting sun.

We had been for some time fearing to be relieved from
this delightful station ; at length the long expected order
came. The rumours which had been for some time gather-
ing strength as to our destination were discovered to
have had a better foundation than many which in general
floated indefinitely about our barracks, on the subject ci
which no one ever could discover their origin ; for, you
must know, soldiers are great gossipers. Our orders
were for Weedon, a small town in Northamptonshire, on
the river Nene. In three days we were to embark on
board a steamer for London, thence by rail. We were
all rather sorry for leaving the present station, although
soldiers always like fresh scenery, and a'. ways play when
they leave, " The Girl I Left Behind Me."

We embarked on the 18th May, accompanied by the
band, pipers and several men of the 72nd Highlanders to
the wharf, the band playing " Auld Lang Syne " as our
steamer moved from the dock, the men cheered and
waved their handkerchiefs, which we responded to in a
most friendly manner. We were all very happy, though
we were rather closely packed together, a circumstance
generally considered dangerous to good fellowship. The
\*e8sel was a small one and being of rather ancient build,
did not boast of all those conveniences that the new
steamers possess. The voyage was a short one, the river
being very smooth ; the trip was pleasant, although it was

.X.

'■ 't

134

A QUIET TOWN.

somewhat inconvenient for the women and children, who
were huddled up very closely together. We were Iiicky
that the weather was so fine, therefore we had not the
unpleasantness of sea-sickness.

As we neared London, steamers and vessels of nearly
every size became more numerous, and the buzz of in-
dustry from the shore, with the whistling of small steam-
ers, the splashing of wheels, the clouds of smoke, impress-
ed us with the wondrous amount of traffic carried on
through this mighty highway of navigation and commerce.

We reached Blackwall at one o'clock, and marched to
Euston station, the women and children being sent in
cabs, where we' took the train at three p. m., arriving in
Weedon at five p. m., marched into barracks and joined
headquarters, which had been there before us. About
this time Col. Styte got command of the regiment, an old
Waterloo officer of great skill in military details.

The Town of Weedon, which is situated in the centre ol
a wide and rich valley in one of the most beautiful coun-
ties in England, was declared by all our soldiers, without
oncxdissentient voice, to be an exceedingly dull, stupid
place. Not having much duty to perform in this quiet
garrison, we were kept continually at drill ; in the even-
ings the men had nothing to occupy the time except to
assemble in the public-houses or canteen, and on Sundays,
after church, to walk out of town to a certain country
tavern, where they unfortunately used to indulge in drink-
ing and carousing. In the days of which I write, those
who entertained the ideaof educating soldiers were laughed

AN EVENING SOBOOL ESTABLISHED.

186

at, as visionary enthusiasts, whose schemes, if put into,
practice, would entirely ruin and destroy the military
esprU de corps of the army ; and few there were among
the commanding officers of regiments, who possessed moral
courage enough to combat the general opinion, even if
they diflfered from the principle.

Col. Styte, however, the Lieut. Col. of the 17th Regi-
ment, or "Royal Tigers," was happily endowed with moral
courage in an equal degree with his gallantry in the field,
which secured for him his present high position, and an
honesty of mind and purpose he possessed that was not
usual with officers of his time. He had received a wound
at the battle of Waterloo, in his right arm, which entirely
disabled it, and it hung down by his side quite powerless.
Not being able to draw his sword, we had great sympathy
for him, which he appreciated very much. He had estab-
lished an evening school for the drummer boys of the
regiment, and for such of the non-commissioned officers
and privates as chose to avail themselves of its advantages.
The Colonel and a few of his brother officers raised a sub-
scription, in order to provide the necessary books, and a
school was established and well attended, with most ex-
cellent results — ^valued by many of the best disposed non-
commissioned officers and men, it worked exceedingly well.
Regarding the drummer boys, their attendance was com-
pulsory. The teacher was a very gentlemanly, able man,
and imparted his instructions in a very painstaking man- ,
ner, which caused many of the young soldiers to attend
his school willingly, and try to advance themselves by his

136

HOMEWARD BOUND.

instructions. Nothing in the regiment gave me more
pleasure than attending, and the progress I made during
our term served to advance m}^ prospects of promotion m
after years, which I most gratefully remember.

By the co-operation of the officers, non-commissioned
officers and men, a gymnasium was established. The ser-
vices of a professional gymnast were secured to instruct
the men in all the athletic exercises, including spamng
with the gloves. Many were the black eyes, and knock-
downs, given and received under his able instruction in
the pugilistic art. We were stationed in this quiet town
three months,,when we got the route to proceed to Castle-
bar, a town in the west of Ireland, and about one hundred
i^nd sixty miles from Dublin.

» " "'W ••.

■ ,;V^

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CHAPTER VIIL

LIVERPOOL — EMBARK FOR DUBLIN — THE VOTAGB — ABRIVAL — MARCH
— THE TRAIN — THE MARCH TO OAUTLEBAR — ARRIVAL — ELECTION— ->
ROUTE TO GALWAT.

AY 9th, 1850, the regiment was formed on the bar-
rack square, right in front, marched to the rail-
way station, the band playing at the head of the regiment,
accompanied by a large number of the inhabitants, with
whom we were very popular, and who gave us three
hearty cheers as the train moved from the station, at ten
o'clock, a.m. During the journey the train stopped suf-
ficiently long enough at different stations to enable us to'
partake of refreshments.

Arriving in Liverpool at 4.30, formed up at the station
and marched through the main street, down to the docks
with fixed bayonets, the band playing " British Grena-
diers," where we embarked at 5.30 p.m.

At six o'clock the steamer moved off slowly from the
dock, the band playing " Come back to Erin," when we
were cheered by the crowd from the quay. We had a
remarkably fine passage, although the boat rolled and
pitched a good deal with the long swell from the south-
west, and we suffered but little discomfort beyond what

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'"■13

•A 153

138

**MT OWN NATIYE LAND.'

invariably attends 900 men, forty women and children,
who are imprisoned for the time-being, with the fear of
being drowned. Several of the women and children were
sea-sick ; but as for the men, their will conquered their
stomach, and they were not sick, although many of them
looked very pale and squeamish. Hoping to enter port in
the morning, I was early on deck ; we were already in
sight of land ; on tie right the long low line of the Irish
coast was visible, scarcely raised above the level of the sea.
Not far ahead the outline, and prominent feature of the
Hill of Howth stood out before us on the right, with its
light-house ; ^my her iii beat and jumped with joy as my
eyes caught the first glimpse of the land of my birth, "my
own, my native land."

The city, that at first looked like a white line on the
coast began apparently to lift itself upwards, and assume
a definite form and shapn, the houses and spires standing
put more distinctly. On the left we saw Kingstown, with
the grand Wicklo^7 mountains in the background, com-
pleted the picture — ^indeed the bay of Kingstown is said
to be one of the most beautiful in the world. Now we
pass the light-house on the left, which stands at the end of
a long pier at the entrance of the bay, close to the Pigeon
House Fort, where there are strong fortifications. We are
moving up slowly among the shipping, arriving at the
north-wall at six-o'clock a.m. The order was given to
disembark immediately, when huge swarms of red coats
assembled on deck, buzzed and bustled about, actively pre-
paring to disembark in good order, and fall in by compa*

-■'•■'k^

ARRIVAL IN DUBLIN.

139

nies on the quay. On the bugle sounding, the whole fell
in, and were mspected by the Colonel. All being correct,
we marched off by fours, with fixed bayonets, and band
playing, along the Liffy to the Western Railway station,
' Broadstone," accompanied by an immense crowd of spec-
tators. We took the train at eight o'clock for MuUingar,
arriving there at ten — sixty miles in two hours — and were
billeted on the taverns and public-houses. Previous to
being dismissed, we were formed up at quarter distance
column, in front of the principal hotel (Murray's), where
the Colonel stayed, when he charged the men to conduct
themselves in their billets, in a soldier-like manner as be-
cometh British soldiers, and never bring discredit on the
regiment through their misconduct among the inhabit-
ants ; non-commissioned officers were ordered specially to
look after the men's interests, and call the roll at tattoo ;
he at the same time ordered parade with arms and accou-
trements at five o'clock, p. m., after which the men were
marched to their different billets by their respective non-
commissioned officers, where we were received with" ceade-
mille-failtha," by the landlords, who had dinner ready for
us in right Irish fashion, according to instructions re*
ceived from the " billet master." After dinner we were
employed in getting our appointments clean and ready
for parade. At the appointed time the regiment paraded
at the former place, rolls called., and companies inspected
by their respective captains. During the parade the
band " discoursed sweet music " in front of the hotel.
After the reports were collected, and all reported pres»

■i'

iiO

THE MARCH TO CASTLEBAR.

ent by tho adjutant, the colonel gave the comntsnd * fix
bayonetH, shoulder arms, left wheel into line, quick
march, halt, dress," the major giving the word, " steady "
when the line was dressed; after which the colonel open*
ed the ranks and inspected the whole line (the ban«l
playing during the inspection), breaking into open col-
umn right in front and then dismissed.

A large crowd of citizens and country people were
looking on in wonder and amazement : one would have
thought they never saw a regiment on parade before,
their admiration was so great.

After goiaig to our billets, the men dressed for the
evening in their shell-jackets, forage-caps, and waist-belts,
cane in hand, and were soon scattered in all directions,
aujong the civilians, who soon made their acquainance,
and pledged tlieir fellowship with cieature comforts in
the public-houses.

Reveille sounded at five o'clock, when we were on the
alert, got breakfast at six, and were on parade at seven.
After the companies were inspected, the colonel again ad-
dressed them, telling the men the consequence and
penalty of getting drunk on the line of march; after
which he sent ofl* the advance guard, and told off the
rear and baggage guards. The women and children, tliat
could not afford to pay for a side-car were obliged to
ride on the baggage waggon. After these preliminary
arrangements were made we marched ofl^, the band play-
ing *' Patrick's Day ;" the people gave three heaiiy cheei^
on parting. After we got out of town, we were 'tllovred

ARUIVAL AT BALLYMOIlE.

141

to march at ease, talk, smoke, sing and toll Htorie.s. Wi
were all quite fresh on starting, except perhaps a few of
the wet souls who made a little free the previous even-
ing with an overdose of Paddy's eye-water, but after we
had accomplished about five or six miles we began to feel
the weight of a full kit, arms and accoutrements, besides
(iixty rounds of ammunition in our pouches, with a thick,
HtifT leather stock, and a coatee buttoned up tight around
our neck, and to cap the climax, the whole surmounted
by a ])onderous shako as an ornament to the military
superstructure. The weather being warm and the roads
dusty, those who indulged so freely in the soul-stirring
element the previous night especially, now began percep-
tibly to exhibit indefinite symptoms of weariness and
thirst. The commanding officer therefore, seeing this
from his elevated position on horseback, and knowing full
well from past experience perhaps, the weakness to
B^hich the human frame is heir, and the desire of the
flesh for the things of this world, halted the regiment
close to a small village, where we procured an abundance
of butter-milk from the peasants, who gave it to us most
willingly. I went into a house and asked for a drink of
water. " Yes, agra ! " said a rather oldish woman, as she
placed a chair for me, " sit down alanna, while I fetch it,"
80 saying she disappeared, and soon returned with a large
noggin of butter-milk which she placed on a table beside
me, " drink that acushla," said she, " it's better nor could
wather for ye an the road." I offered her some coppers
in payment for the refreshing beverage, but she refused,

M"'

142

" BUTTRRMILK PLENTY.

>i I

saying, " Nd, 1 thank ye sur, d'ye think I'ud be af thei
takin' pay from a poor sojer fur a dhrop o' butther-milk f
the sorra wone av me thin ; I wish that it wor bettber,
it's meself that 'ud give it wid a good will. Shure, alanna,
I don't know bud me own son may be in need av a dhrink*
wherever he may be this blessed minute." As she finish-
ed this sentence her eyes filled with tears, which she
wiped away with the comer of her apron, and gave a deep
sigh. " Perhaps your son is a soldier," suggested I at this
outburst of maternal affection for her absent progeny.
" Ochone, avick machree ! " she exclaimed, " in throth
it's nothin* blit the truth yer spakin,' shure enough my
son is a sojer in the Queen's army, he'll be gone away from
me fourteen years come next Patrick's Day. maybe ye
might have met wid him in yer thravels alanna. His
name is Barney Hanratty, an' av ye had wanced laid yer
eyes an him ye must remember him ever aftherwards, fur
he* had a remarkable big scar acrass the bridge av his
nose an' right cheek bone, bless the mark."

" Well ma'am," says I, " such a person as you have de-
scribed, I have never met with in all my travels, although
I have met many men of the same name. This particular
mark across the face which you have defined, is one of
those freaks of nature which seems inherent in some
families, is it not," suggested I.

" No in throth, asthore machree,'* replied she, it's not a
natural mark at all, at all, but mighty unnatural entirely,
fur he received it in a fight which he had wid the bailiff
an* his pack of thieves who wor dhrivin' off our two cow«

■', ''V

BARNEY HANRATTT.

143

to pound in regard av two pounds arrears of rint which I

owed the landlord since my husband died, rest his sowl.

It wor nearly a dear fight to Barney anyhow, for the blow

he got acrass the face wor nearly biingin' him to his

grave, but anyway my boy was brave enough to rescue

the cows from the bailiff an' his three understrappers

whom he almost killed entirely. Whin I saw me son

retumin' wid the two cows afore him an' he covered all

over wid blood, ye could ha* knocked me down wid a

bhranoen, an' sich a strong weakness came over me that

only the childre threw some could wather in my face I'ud

lia' fainted right off, bless the hearers. ' Barney, agra,'

said I, afther he had returned from the byre where he

had secured the cows, an' I got me strength agin to spake

to him, * in heaven's name, alanna, why did ye dhraw

clown this throuble upon yourself an' yer poor mother,

an' I havin' enough av that same ever since yer father

came to an untimely end in the very same manner, rest

his sowl. Shure it tears me heart to pieces to see ye get

sich treatment, I 'ud n't wish for the best two cows that

I ever milked that ye should ha' met wid such usages at

the hands av them sassenachs. Barney adelish why did

ye intherfare wid the coorse av' law, an' endanger yer life

by rescuin* the cows,* * I don't care for the coorse av law,

mother,' replied he, * whoever comes to take our property

from U8, an' we willin' to work, will suffer for it. Do ye

think I'd see me two brothers an' little sister an' not to

spake av yourself, eatin' dhry praties, an' our cows standin'

in a pound for no rason whatsomdiver I No, high hangin'

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144

THE SASSEN^^ifflS.

to me, but Til split the skull of the tirst man that comes
to take them, an' all I'm sorry for is that it's not the
vagabond landlord himself that's near mo. That's our
thanks fur payin' many a pound in honesty an' dacency
to him an' his, lavin' us to a Sassenach agent, an' not even
to that same, but to his understrappers, that's robbin' us
on both sides atune them. May hard fortune attind him
fur a landlord. His wisest plan anyhow is to keep clear
av this part av the counthry, d'ye mind. Shure it's %
gambler he is, they say, spendin our hard earned money
away in France an' Germany an' other fureign parts, in
all sorts of debauchery, an* we harrished an' racked to
support his Villainy, by his cursed agent an' his under-
strappers, but, wait a bit, maybe there's a good time
comin' whin we'll pay our money to them that won't be
too proud to hear our complaints wid their own ears, an'
who wont turn us over to a divil's limb av an agent who
has no fear av God in his heart. He has need anyhow
to get his coflfin sooner nar he thinks. What signifies
hangin' in a good cause, it's a dacent death an' a happy
death whin it's for the right cause, — defindin' the widow
an* orphans from the ravages of the cruel oppressor.'
' Ochone, Barney, agra machree,' says I * come here asthore
fen* sit down while I wash aff the blood an' dhress that
fearful wound, shure ye'll be afther bleedin to death
while yer blood is up in such a passion, sit down, alanna.'
Afther washin' an dhressin' the big scar acrass his face,
we put him to bed.

** Next momin', the hue-and-cry was all over the coun-

.;•^^.:»■

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■ -\i

"V£i-:

THE widow's wail.

145

thiy about the bailiff an' his three undherstrappera been
nearly kilt entirely by me son, an' the peelers wor out
afther him wid a warrant for his apprehension. So be
the powers I had to hide him away till the gash on his
face wor healed. Then what did he do but go an' 'list
fur a soger in the 18th Royal Irish, to escape bein' trans-
ported across the says where I 'ud never have a chance av
geein' him again, divil a lie I'm tellin' ye. He's been
home on furlough twice since he 'listed. His regiment
wor ordhured out to India, where they wor engaged in
a^reail^al war wid thim hathens, an' many av his regi-
ment j^ . V led an' wpundcd at the sthormin' av Ghuznee,
I beiieve they call it. We saw Barney's name among
the wounded in the newspapers. In throth, alanna I'm
mighty afeered that he has since died from the effects av
the wound, as I've not heard from him since, which is now
ten years come next Patrick's Day. Should you, alanna,
by any chance come acrass him in yer travels, an recog-
nise him by the mark acrass his face, be sure an' tell him
that his poor ould mother is alive an' well an' hopes wid
the blessin* av God to live and see her darlin* boy once
more return home to his native land again."

Just as she had finished, the bugle sounded the "fall in."
I then took the widow's hand, and promised that I would
do as she had desired, if ever I met with her son. As 1
withdrew my hand, the tears ran down her cheeks, and I
could hear her blessing me as I departed from the house.
The bugle had scarcely finished sounding, when every
man was in his place in the ranks, well rested and refresh-

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146

ARRIVAL AT BALLTMORE.

ecL *WI)eh the marck was resumed, we had nine miles
more to march before we got to Ballymore, where we,
were to be billeted for the night. The whitethorn, honey*
suckle, primrose, and other numerous wild-flowers alon^
•' the hedge-rows, by the road-side, were bursting their
petals, and the whole air was redolent of their rich pe^
fume. Therefore, the march was rather a pleasurable one,
consequent on the picturesque scenery along the line of
route. We had frequent halts, for a few moments at a time,
during the remainmg nine miles, when the peasants re-
galed us very hospitably with a generous supply of butter-
milk ; in return for which our band played " Patrick's
Day," and " GaiTy-Owen," as we resumed the march,
which well repaid them for their hospitality, and several
of the rising generation accompanied us for miles along
the road, enchanted by the sweet music, martial and im-
posing appearance of the troops — arriving at Ballymore
by two o'clock, when we were told off to our respective
billets. This is a very wretched, small town, with only
three public houses ; most of the men were billeted in
private houses, the poor people were hard pressed to find
room for us, their houses were so small, most of them only
one story high, but we were tired and not very particu-
lar, as long as we got shelter, and some place to stretch
our wearied limbs during the hours of repose. After
arriving at our billets, dinner, such as they had, was ready
for us ; tea and coffee they had none, but instead, we had
an abundance of bacon, cabbage, and potatoes, which we
washed down with a plentiful supply of new milk, which

.A.

ATHLONE.

147

we enjoyed very much, and made a hearty meal Aftei
satisfying the cravings of the inner man with these sub-
stantials, to cap the climax, several of our party decided
upon indulging in a wee drop of good old Irish whiskey,
in order to give a zest to the ample repast. Accordingly,
we made up a subscription and sent our host out for tha
"crater." After partaking of this luxury, so long un-
known, in which the landlord and his better half joined
us in a sociable manner, we turned out for parade, when
we were inspected by captains of companies and then dis-
missed. We had supper at six, oat-cakes, potato-cakes,
and new milk, and being tired from the previous march-
ing, we were soon after in the arms of Morpheus, tired
nature's sweet restorer.

the

Reveille sounded at five next morning.

arousing

hitherto quiet village, when we were all on the alert, got
breakfast of bacon and eggs, potato-cakes and milk, fall-
ing in for parade at seven, and marching off with the
band playing Irish airs as usual, which caused the citizens
to shout and cheer in a most loyal manner, as Her Ma-
jesty's troops disappeared from their midst. After a long
march of sixteen miles, on a dusty road, we reached Ath-
lone at two o'clock, tired and footsore.

After the usual preliminaYies we were dismissed to our
billets, where a hot dinner was ready, according to instruc-
tions received in advance by the billet sergeant, who pre-
ceded the regiment on the line of march. My wife fared
much better to-day than yestwday. I had procured for
bar a seat on a side-car with the hospital sergeant's wife.

■ '**

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' A

148,

A DAY OF BEST.

by paying half the expense of the ear. Tins luxury of
riding on a side-car or cab is not accorded to private
soldiers' wives, unless they can pay for the conveyance
themselves, and are therefore with their littlo children,
(if they have any) forced to ride on the humiliating bag-
gage waggons, where they are jolted unmercifully on a
rough road in a most excruciating and shameful manner.
This source of grievance, which has been of long standing
in the army, ought to be remedied by the government,
and a better and more respectable n^eans of forwarding
the wives and children of the able defenders of our country
and Her Majesty's possessions, from onu station to the
other.

This is a good sized town, with largje barracks and
strongly fortified, on the Shannon, dividing Leinster from
Connaught. We fared pretty well here and got good, de-
cent bille4s.

To-morrow will be Sunday ; we will halt to rest, and
praise God, who has in His Almighty power so wisely
ordained that the seventli day shall be sanctified and kept
holy. We were allowed to indulge in a good sleep on
Sunday morning, nothing to do before ten o'clock, only to
get breakfast of ham and eggs ; after which church parade
m front of O'Rourk's hotel, where we were inspected and
marched off' to our different places of worship, the band
playing, causing great crowds of the citizens to assemble
and accompany us to church. After dinner most of the
men went out through the town in full dress; but myself,
and one or two uf my comrades, stayed in during the

DAN NULTY S TBEOLOGT.

lid

aftemoon, reading and resting ourselves, in order Uiat we
might be fresh for the next day's march. About foui
o'clock our landlord, a jolly, good-natured sort of a man,
whose name was Dan Nulty, seemed anxious to amuse us.
All at once he bethought that there was a rat caught the
previous night in a wooden trap in his larder. Dan was
also the proud possessor of a very fine rat terrier, which
he called Pincher. The idea struck him that it was a
happy thought to turn the rat loose in the yard and give
Pincher a chance to distinguish himself before strangers.
He informed his wife that his mind needed rousing a
little by excitement, and that the rat ought to be let out
of his miserable prison. He was then reminded by )iis
better half what day it was, but that had no effect whatr-
ever. He said if it was right to get a derrick and lift
your neighbour's ass out of the pit , into which he had
fallen, on the Sabbath day, there cou)d not be much harm
in releasing a miserable rat from the trap into which he
had been deluded. He thought this was a great joke,
better would it have been for him to have heeded the
pious suggestion of his wife, but some men (and Dan
Nulty was one of them,) are very headstrong, and think
they know everything and a great deal more. He brought
the trap with the rat in it out into the back yard and
called the dog. " Come boys," said he to us as he went
into the yard, " don't ye want to see some good fun, this
dog of mine is one of the best rat terriers ye ever laid yer-
eyes upon ; just see how quick he'll put that rat out of
pain." '

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A PJ|ECAlllOL S PliEDICAMElfT.

Out we rushed after Dan to see the fun, and gatherc«i
in a circle around the rat-trap, Pincher, in particular, was
anxious to be introduced to the unfortunate rat, whidi
evidently began to understand that his old master was at
last about to betray him into the jaws of his bitter enemy.
We all stood in silent expectation. The rat took a look
at the open door, but hesitated to leave his prison, to run
the chance of being crushed to death oy the canine tusks
of Pincher, who stood ready at the door to gobble hira up
the first chance he got. At length Dan pushed the trap
with his foot, as a signal to the rat that all were ready.
Still the rat cjemurred in taking any active part in the
proceedings. But Dan kept on pushing the trap with
bis foot to remind the rat that he was wanted outside;
when all of a sudaen, with a tremendous yell as if some
one had stabbed him, Dan jumped about four feet high
then with his legs wide apart, and a wild look of mortal
terror in his eyes, which you could easily have snared
outside of his head, he gave a roar like a wild beast, and
inflicted upon his own person several emphatic slaps with
his open hand. It seems that the rat had run up one of
the legs of his nether garments, where he secreted him-
self in its ample folds, which Dan belaboured with all his
might, in order to dislodge the rat. Then he stretched
out one leg, like some accomplished actor on a stage, and
wriggled all over. Just as he did so, Pincher smelt a rat
and bounced at him, but missed his game, so it was not the
mt's hide that sufiered. Dan made a vicious kick at the
faithful dog that was trying his might to catch the rat.

•■«,'■

A riTCUED BATTLE.

idl

but the rat acting on the suggestion of the terrier, also
took a nip now and then at Dan's hide. At any rate, Dan
set up such a piercing, plaintive wail, that we were all
speechless and convulsed with laughter, it was a remark-
able scene for a painter. There was Dan, jumping around
the yard like a madman, slapping himself whenever he
thought he could reach the rat. The dog close behind
him, nipping the unfortunate desecrator of the Sabbath
from time to time, in his vain efforts to bite the rat. Dan
tried to pray, " now I lay me down to sleep," but he in-
terrupted himself with the most horrid and violent pro-
fanity and vigorous kicks at the faithful Pincher, who
was doing all a poor dog could do, to assist his master in
his search after the exasperated rat, which, as a. correct
map of the seat of war would show, bit him three times
on the broadest part of his anatomy, to the dog's once.
But, then the rat occupied a better position, looking at it
from a military or strategetic standpoint. The doleful
cries of his wife and children who were horrified specta-
tors at the back door, awakened one of the men in the
adjoining yard named Davey O'Hara to a sense of his
duty towards his neighbour. The form of the struggling
rat was visible inside of Dan's raiment. Davey who had
just arrived at the scene of action, had armed himself
with a large club or beetle, which he found in the yard,
now pursued the fugitive, and aimed a fearful blow at
' the annoying little rodent, unfortunately he missed Dan
entirely, but the blow was not lost, for poor Pincher got
the full force of it, and went howling over the fence like

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a shot, and thus the unfortunate man was freed from one
of his torme.ntori» The next hlow at the rat, which Dan
was trying to escape from, was a little too low down. It
sounded like hitting a beaf steak with a batten, but Davey
was gradually getting the range. He called on the
afHicted man to hold still for one moment, and was
about to make another whack at the rat, when Dan
slipped to one side and missed the blow, and striking his
would be deliverer with a club which he seized in desper-
ation, doubling him up like a hedge-hog and hurled him
against the side of the bam with the ferocity of a step-
mother's arm. Fortunately his better-half retained her
presence of mifid, she bawled out, " sit down on him Dan,
sit down on him." He accepted the glad tidings. When
a two hundred pound man sits down it means something,
it sounded like the firing off of a cannon. He sat down
on himself several times hard enough tp shake the pad-
ding out of his waistcoat.

His wife ran to assist her fallen husband, just then the
rat ran out of the leg of his unmentionables. With a
wild shriek she ran back to her old position at the back
door, lest the hunted rat might claim her protection, but
she did not want him, it was not her rat. In the mean-
time amid the uproar and confusion the exasperated rat
had vanished. Then Dan with prespiration rolling oflP
him in drops the size of walnuts, crawls painfully on all
fours into his house, amid roars of laughter from the
spectators. He says the next time he undertakes to des-
ecrate the Sabbath he will not select a rat to amuse him-
self with.

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<•'■ "A

TBREB CHEERS ON PARTING.

•

■ 1

168

Mrs. Nulty's remarks to the bottle of pain-killeif, as
she anoints her husband's wounds : — " Til beyer bail hell
listen to me next time. Some men think thomselvea so
wonderful smart an* clever, oh 1 divil a lie in it"

Dan told us next mominji;, as we parted, that there was
no truth in the rumour afloat, that he got drunk that
Sunday night before going to bed. However there ^ere
crowds of people who thronged the street, and plenty of
whiskey drank during the day and night ; great excite-
ment to see so many soldiers in the hitherto quiet town.
At tattoo that night one corporal and six privates were
confined, the corporal for being drunk, and the privatep
for minor offences. In the morning, the six private?
were reprimanded ; but the corporal was sent back for a
court-martial on arrival at Castlebar.

We were on the march at seven next morning as usual,
the band playing Irish airs, which charmed the citizens ;
who gave us three hearty cheers on parting. As We
marched through the principal streets, the windows and
balconies were crowded with the youthful portion of the
fair sex, who waved their handkerchiefs approvingly, we
imagined, as they surveyed our martial appearance with
bright sparkling glances of admiration and applause. We
were in good spirits, from the quantity of spirits imbibed,
for every fellow had a stiff horn with the landlord before
parting, besides we were getting accustomed to the road.
As we emerged from the town, the morning being bright,
cheery and refreshing, the view of the surrounding
country became most delightful in character, wooded

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ARRIVAL AT Ci STLEBAB.

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mountains in tho distance, with gi'een fields and gransv
plains as far as the eye could reach, through which mcan<
dered the placid waters of the River Shannon glistening
in the morning sun. While its tributary, which leaps
and tumbles in a series of sparkling cascades down a
romantic and deep, rocky glen, frequently presents itsell
to view along the route which gives a tone to the
picturesque landscape. After a march c\f fifteen miles
through a delightlul country, halting occasionally by the
side of a purling stream to refresh and rest ourselves for
a shoit time, and allow the stragglers to come up, we
arrived at Cfistleblakeney at about two o'clock, where we
were billeted for the night. This is a small town and not
unlike Ballymore. During the journey to Castlebar, we
always started at seven every morning, and paraded at
five every evening for inspection. Next day, at two
o'clock, we reached Tuam, a fine town where Archbishop
McHale and Bishop Plunkett reside, where we were
billeted that night, marching as usual in the morning;
next night at Holymount, arriving at Castlebar on Thurs-
day, 18th May, 1850, where we were to be stationed till
further orders, accomplishing a journey of about one
hundred miles in seven days. On arrival, each company
were shown their respective quarters, and then told off
into messes, according to the size of each room. On
entering the barrack-rooms, the sergeant in charge tells
off the men to their respective iron cots. After depositing
their muskets in the arm-racks at the head of each cot
and placing the knapsack on the shelf, and the accoutre*

V ' '

THE CAUSK OF DIlUNKENKtSS.

155

mentA on the po^s above each cot, the firnt object sought
for by most soldiera on entering a cold, comfortless empty
barrack room is the canteen. This uncomfortable circum*
stance, from which soldiers usually suflfer during a re-
moval from one barracks to another, where the idea of
having quarters comfortably arranged for th« soldiers or
even the officers' reception, on their arrival at t new
Htatiun, is never thought of by the authorities to whose
care the comforts of the soldiers are entrusted. This > >
frequently the cause of a great deal of the drunkenk t s^
that commonly prevails upon these occasions. T!\e ap-
pearance of an empty, cold barrack-room afier a. long
march is just the sort of thing to justify or encour-
age this predisposition to drown care and the idea of
the disagreeable and uncomfortable in a bumper.

Notwithstanding the numerous fatigues incidental to
troops on occupying fresh quarters, such as bed-filling at
the barrack stores, unloading and unpacking baggage,
coal carrying, hoif pital fatigue and many other fatigues too
numerous to mention here ; many of :'> men addicted t6
diink find favourable opportunities to visit the canteen,
theio to satisfy their greedy appetiies in the indulgence of
the sDul-stirring clement, in consequence of which many
of thom have to sleep on the soft side of a board in the
guard-room during the night, to awake next morning
with »\n aching head, and be meted out an ample allow-
ance of heavy-morching-order drill by the commanding
oHicer. in punishment for their over indulgence in the
»ocial glass the previous evening. The following day

■ VI

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156

AN ELECTION ROW.

i:'

commanding officer's parade in heavy -marching-order at
ten a.m., wTien we were minutely inspected, by cajitains
of companies, and then dismissed. We had good barrack
accommodation and easy duty while in Castlebar, the
men getting ten nights in bed between guards. After we
had been here a few days, we became aware of the fact
that a contested election for a member of parliament was
to take place in about three weeks, and we found
great excitement among the people ; the committee of
each candidate were holding meetings and canvassing foi
their party ; many rows took place between them, the pub-
lic-houses were continually crowded ; police were brought
from distant stations; and, as the day of polling drew neai
the excitement increased. On the morning of the election,
the grenadiers and light company were drawn up in line
on each side of the square fronting the court-house, with
the two troops of cavalry. The voting commenced at
ten o'clock ; the police were all formed up ready to pass
the voters in and keep the crowd back, the voters were
brought in from the country on side-cars, guarded from the
violence of the mob by a policeman on each side of the
car. The people were very roughly used at first by the
police, which raised their wrath, when they rushed with
immense force on the police and thoroughly defsated
them, forcing them to retreat to the lines of the military
for protection. Having effected this object the crowd
retained their position, but did not attempt to assault
the soldiers, though their shouts of defiance to the police
rose loud and long. The police were ordered to advance

■ ' I "

THBEE CHEEBS FOR THE SOLDIERS.

157

again and seize the ring-leaders; they obeyed, very reluc-
tantly, but being assaulted with sticks and stones, their
individual courage was excited, and they rushed to chas-
tise the mob, who again drove them back in greater dis-
order than before, and a nearer approach to the soldiers
was attained by the crowd in the scuffle which ensued.
The police were again ordered to charge the mob, when a
more serious scrimmage arose, sticks and stones were
used with more serious effect, and the parties being nearer
to each other, the missiles intended only for the police
overshot their mark and struck some of the soldiers, who
bore their painful position with admirable fortitude, al-
though their patience was sorely tried to stand a target
for the mob, but a soldier's duty is to obey orders in
whatever shape they come from his officers, and therefore
they had to put up with rough usage. The mob were
now furious and the magistrate had to read the Riot- Act
before the soldiers could attempt to quell the disturbance;
at last the military were ordered to fire, the captain giv-
ing the command, "with ball cartridge, load, ready,
present, fire," the men were previously cautioned in an
undertone of voice to fire over the people's heads.

This had the desired effect, the crowd dissolved as the
muskets were brought to the present, after which they
gave three rousing cheers for the soldiers, and down with
the police, or peelers as they called them. This act
brought the soldiers into high esteem with the populace.
The business of the interior was now suspended for a
tim^ by the sounds of ^erce tumults, which rose after th«

■m

■-.7

158

AN ELECTION SPEECH

soldiers had discharged the volley ; some rushed from the
court house to the platform, and beheld the mob in a
state of great excitement. A popular candidate now
stood forward on the platform and was greeted with
fresh cheers of enthusiasm.

He waited until the uproarious cheering died away,
SLxHd then addressed them first in a few well chosen, sug-
gestive, feeling words of advic^', touching their nationality
and the honour of their country, which commanded their
earnest attention.

He then commenced with something like the following :

" Fellow 'Citizens : — I come forward once more as a
candidate to represent you in the parliament of our com-
mon country, and however I may be unequal to that most
responsible task, you are at least well aware that I will
never misrepresent you. (Cheers.) My past political
career is ample testimony on that point. I thank viod,
that I am not one of those mongrel Irishmen, backslider
or turncoat who sell their country and their birthright
for a mess of pottage. Nor am I one of those two-faced,
who smile and shake you b} the hand just before an elec-
tion, in order to gain your friendship and secure your vote,
and would have betrayed you with a kiss as did Judas
Iscariot to our Saviour, if his pride would allow him to
stoopsolow. There was a certain heathen god named Janus
with two heads, which the ancient Italians were wont to
worship. He would have been just the fellow to have
amongst us, for when one of his heads was broken he
would have the other to fall back on. He was represeftted

SHAk^f BEPARTEE.

150

with two faces, looking backward and forwai'd, to denote
the past and future. Now, fellow countrymen, you know
that I'm no two-faced Janus, and as for seeing before and
behind, I can look back on the past, and forward on the
future, and both the roads are straight ones. * (Cheers,)
As for my politics you are all well aware that I never
change them. My opponent can't stand up and say as
much."

" Sure how could he," cried a voice from the crowds
" there's a weathercock in the family, which is represented
on the top av his house, and turns with every puff av
wind that blows. Begorra, whin I want to know which
way the wind blows, all I've got to do is look towards
Squire O'Hagan's castle an' there's the weathercock braving
the gale wid his beak to the wind, as much as to say I'm
me masther's motto." A loud cheer followed this repartee
for the opposing candidate's eccentricity was no secret in
the constituency.

" Much has been said," continued the speaker, ** about
}?<>ntlemen chalking out lines for themselves, now, the
plain English of this determined chalking of their own
lines is rubbing out every other man's line. (Bravo.)
Some of those chalking gentlemen have so many lines
chalked up against them that they might find it difficult
to settle the score if they were called on to do so. The
system of rubbing out other men's lines, and their own at
the same time, may be very convenient, but I don't like
the practice.

" Fellow citizens, time will not admit of further explan-

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160

POPULAPITY OF THE MILFTABT.

ation on th^ present occasion, suffice it to say that I have
been brought up amongst you, tberefoi^e you all know me
and can trust me, for I never deceived you and that's
more than my opponent can assert."

His address was received with loud acclamations, when
order and silence were restored, the sherifi demanded a
show of hands, and a fine show of hands it was in favour
of the speaker, and every hand had a kippee^ of a stick
in it. After which the crowd gave him three hearty
cheers, and quiet was restored, when the troops wefQ
marched into barracks, but kept in readiness should
another row (commence, but happily all were peaceable
afterwards, although much excitement with plenty of
whiskey continued for several days after, in 'Which several
of the soldiers, who worshipped at the shrine of Bacchus,
joined, to be punished for their adoration to the false god,
by being incarcerated in the black hole for the night on
entering the barrack gate while under the influence of
the spirits. But notwithstanding all the restrictions and
punishments attached to the adoration of the false god,
there are many who prostrate themselves at his shrine to
be carried insensible to their wretched couch.

After the election, our men were highly respected by
the inhabitants, the old women brought the men bottles el
" potheen whiskey " in their milk cans. The sergeant on
gate duty, not suspecting any smugglings by these old
women, saw nothing but milk in the can, but if he had
searched the can he would have found a black bottle ful}
of the real " mountain dew " aX the ^iipttoii^.

ROUTE FOR QALWAT.

161

After being stationed here about three months we were
ordered to proceed to Gal way, a town situated at the
mouth of Lough Corrib ; it is the west terminus of the
the Midland Great Western Railway, and about 117 miles
west of Dublin.

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I t

CHAPTER IX.

rHE MAKOH—QAL WAT— CAPTAIN BOUBOHIEB — DETAOHMBNT — BEOATTA
— JACK 8T0KY — EOW WITH POLICE — ROUTE TO GALWAY — MAJO^
BOUXOHIEB EXCHANGES — CAPTAIN CBOKEB — CLADDAOH — ATTEND X
OAMP MEETING — THE CITY OF GALWAY— BOUTE TO DUBLIN.

UGUST 26th, 1850, at 7 a.m., we marched out of the
barrack-gate at Oastlebar, accompanied by a large
crowd of citizens, among whom figured very conspicu-
ously many of the fair sex, who gave expression to their
grief at our departure from their midst, by the waving of
their handkerchiefs, and many other perceptible demon-
strations of regret on parting. In return for their infat-
uation with the red-coats, our band struck up " The Girl
I Left Behind Me," whereupon the crowd gave us three
hearty cheers, which we responded to lustily, and the
waving of hats and the flutter of handkerchiefs were soon
lost in the distance.

It was a fine, clear, sunny morning, enlivened by the
strains of sweet marching musici The mowers, hay-
makers, and reapers in the meadows and fields, laid down
their implements, and ran to the roadside to see the able
defenders of their soil march past, and hear the militaiy

BILLETKD At HOLLt MODNt.

161}

band play. As we advanced into the country, the air be-
came more bracing, and the scenery more enchanting.
We noticed along the route, that a large portion of the
land seemed occupied with the pasturage of cattle, and on
many farms, or estates, herds could be seen in the dis-
tance,which added to the picturesque effect of the scenery.
While now and then, amid pasture lands, a murmuring
brook, or purling stream, meandered through a labyrinth
of brushwood and foliage, or sparkling in the rays of an
autumn sun, as it jumped and dashed frantically from
rock to chasm in mad haste, to find its level in old ocean
home. While neat cottages and farm houses peeped oc-
casionally through a clump of trees, on some gentle rising
eminence, round which the undulating fields of ripe grain,
ready for the sickle, waved with the zephyr, which waft-
ed the fragrant odour of wild flowers, and new mown hay,
to charm the weary travellers, who marched along the
sun-scorched and dusty road. After a march of sixteen
miles,^halting occasionally by some crystal brook, or ham-
let by the wayside, to quench our thirst and allow the
stragglers to come up, we arrived at Holly Mount about
three o'clock in the afternoon, and were billeted there for
that night.

Next morning we were on the march again as usual, at
leven o'clock, and after a march of fifteen miles, arrived
atTuam, where we were billeted for the night.

This is an old town, which abounds in many medieval
historic landmarks, monuments and ruins of the ancient
aborigines. I would have liked vexy much to give a

■>^

l64

GALWAT.

- /

more definite outline of this ancient cathedral city, but
space will not admit of further description. Suffice it to
say, that the good-will, kindness and hospitality we re-
ceived from the innkeepers and citizens in general, during
our short stay among them, deserves grateful mention in
this work. The clergy and elite of the city regaled the
officers with the good things at their command, while
those of less pretensions to the beau monde, entertained
the non-commissioned officers and men in a manner
worthy of Irishmen. The following morning, our enter-
tainers showed further evidence of their kindness and
generosity, Iby the ample provision made towards a sub-
stantial breakfast, to which we applied ourselves in a pro-
fessional manner, and did adequate justice to the good
things so liberally provided by our hospitable host. Then
resumed the march as usual, arriving in Galway by two
o'clock p.m., after a long and tiresome march of eighteen
miles. The grenadiers and light company, with four
others, were stationed at the Shamble barracks, and four
companies at the Castle. Most of the officers stayed at
Mackilroy's hotel, in the market square, or green, as it
was called, where they remained until their quarters were
ready for their reception. After our arrival, we were ail
turned out to perform the numerous fatigues incidental on
taking over fresh quarters after marching into barracks,
such as bed-filling with straw, and drawing bedding at
the barrack stores ; coal-carrying, unloading and unpack-
ing officers', company's, and regimental baggage ; hospi-
tal duUes, drawiD|v rations, and many other fatigues and

MATBIMONT.

165

duties, too numerous to mention. As a matter of course
many of the thirsty frequenters of grog shops find fa-
vourable opportunities to visit the canteen at intervals
during the afternoon, where they soon get rid of their
loose change, and become fit and proper subjects for a
cool night's lodging in the black-hole by tattoo. Garri-
son duty here was easy, having only three guards to
furnish, which consisted of two sergeants, three corporals
and twenty-four privates daily ; but in order to keep the
men from frequenting, as much as possible, the numerous
places of low amusement, whiskey-shops and shebeens,
which held out such allurements to the unwary, the regi-
ment was kept continually at drill, either commanding
officer's, adjutant's, or sergeant-major's. The only time
the men had a chance of visiting the city and its amuse-
ments was from supper time till tattoo.

Previous to the route from Castlebar, Ca])tain Bour-
chier had applied for leave of absence for three months.
On arrival at Holly Mount, he received a letter from the
War Office, which contained his leave, when he started
oflf at once for Somersetshire, in England, after bidding
the company good-bye, and h u-nding it over to Lieut. Coul-
thurat, who was senior subaltern.

We all suspected that he was about to enter into the
holy and happy state of matrimony during his absence
fiom the regiment. This happy event, however, as well
as his promotion to Brevet-Major while on leave, was
verified en his return to head-quarters a few days before
the Christmas holidays, when he brought 9 beautiful

' I 1

1«6

WEDDING PBEPARATI0N8.

joung bride baok with him to share his military honours.
He rented a comfortable house in one of the aristocratic
terraces of Salt Hill Road, in the suburbs of the town.

On his arrival, he intimated that he would entertain
his company to a Christmas dinner, and a barrel of ale to
wash it down.

This glad tidings of great joy spread like wild -fire
through the company, which soon after assembled in one
of the largest barrack-rooms to deliberate on the prepara-
tions compatible with the forthcoming happy event. Tlie
meeting was presided over by the colour-sergeant of the
company, supported by the other non-commissioned offi-
cers; when resolutions were passed and committees
formed for the purpose of decorating the company's bar-
rack-rooms with evergreens, mottoes, and numerous de-
vices of swords, bayonets, rainiods and other parapher-
nalia of military trappings and armorial bearings emble-
matic of the festive season, joy, thankfulness and loyalty.
Accordingly we set to work, one party deployed into
foraging order in search of evergreens, others were form-
ing stars and crowns by means of bayonets, swords
and ramrods ; others were employed in cutting out em-
blems and mottoes from fancy paper, while many artists
were employed painting on white calico appropriate epi-
thets, to adorn the spaces between the mottoes and ever-
greens.

At last the decorations were accomplished to the entire
satisfaction of the many critics who volunteered their sug-
gestions as the artists were giving the coup de grace to the

NUPnAL FESTIVITIflB.

167

scenery. The long tables fairly groaned with abundance «
of good things which had been provided for the occasion.
Two large epergnes filled with choice fresh flowers, which
had been kindly supplied by some of our fair friends,
graced each table.

Everything being ready, we all sat down to dinner,
dressed in shell jackets, white waistcoats, and black neck-
ties. Every fellow who did not appear in this style of
wedding-garment had to take a back seat. Just as the
president stood up to say grace, in walked our captain
with his fair young bride on his arm, accompanied by the
subalterns of the company and one or two lady friends.
As they entered the large hall, the first thing that com-
manded their attention was a reciprocal epithaUimium,
fancifully painted in coloured letters in honour and praise
of himself and his young bride. This caused a great amount
of badinage and merriment among the chosen few.
As the distinguished party entered, we all stood up, and
the band, which we had in readiness for the occasion,
struck up " Behold the Conquering Hero Comes," followed

by a wedding march.

After which the president proposed the health of the
captain and his bride, which was cheerfully drank from
flowing goblets of sparkling ale, to the appropriate tune of
" He's a Jolly Good Fellow," the company joining in the
chorus. Then the captain responded in a few well chosen
words, which drew forth three hearty cheers for himself
and his wife. They then vouchsafed to walk through
the barrack rooms, eulogizing and admiring the ability
and skill displayed in the decorations, as well as the

/ 'I

'' I

i t ^Ja

16a

MARCH TO BANAOHEB.

jtaste manifested in ornamenting the tables. They then
retired amidst hearty cheers from the company ; leaving
US in our glory to enjoy the abundance of substantials
placed before us. After dinner, the evening passed off
most agreeably with songs, toasts and sentiments, and was
wound up with a dance. Space will not admit of further
detail of the many amusing incidents which came under
my observation that night before the company broke up.
Suffice it to say, that every invention to create fun and
frolic was resorted to and put into practice. Towards the
small hours of the morning, many of the gay young subal-
terns droppe^ in to witness the fun and see the dancing.
Our company was under orders for detachment at
Banagher, a small fortified garrison town on the River
Shannon, and thirty miles south of Gal way. Accordingly,
on the first of May, 1851, the company was formed upon
the barrack square, inspected by the colonel, and after a
few words of fatherly advice from him we marched up
High Street, accompanied outside the town by the band,
playing Irish airs. We had thirty miles to march, which
we accomplished in two days. We marched through
Oranmore, Athenroy, and were billeted in Ballinasloe one
night, passing through Eyrecourt, and arriving in Ban-
agher next day at 3 p. m. These barracks are sufficient
to accommodate about one hundred and fifty men, situated
within a fortification which commands a bridge that
spans the Shannon, and connects King's County with
the County Gal way This part of the country is famous
for fishing, shooting and boating, on the clear placid Shan*

FOBTUMNA LAKl.

109

non, which wends its serpentine course through mases
of shrubs, long grass and bulrushes, low marshy lands
and meadows which abound in wild ducks, blue and
golden plover, snipe, lapwings and many other water
fowls.

Portumna Lake, about fourteen miles from, here by
the river, is noted for regattas, on account of its large
size and deep water. These regattas were a source oi
great attraction and amusement to our officers, non-com-
missioned officers and men. The officers purchased a
yacht, a four-oared gig, and a duck boat from their
predecessors. They also hired a boatman, named Jack
O'Brien, one of the Mickey Free breed, who amused them
with his originality, Irish wit, humour, anecdotes and
amusing stories ; a regular John Hey wood. But he had
only one natural leg to stand on, for the other was made
of wood. He accompanied the officers on all fishing,
shooting and other excursions, and at other times he took
care of the yacht and boats and kept them clean and in
proper order.

One summer's morning, the Major, Ensign Williams,
Jack and myself started in the gig, to witness a regatta
on Portumna Lake. The air was salubrious, the sun had
just risen, and the earth refreshed by the heavy dew of
the night, was breathing forth all its luxuriant fragrance.
The river was clear as crystal. We could plainly see the
trout and salmon disporting themselves beneath its tran-
quil surface. " Jack," said the major, as he blew a cloud
of smoke from his merschaum pipe, while we rowed gently
with the stream, how did you lose your leg ? "

17P

HOW JACK LOST HIS LEO.

"Well yer honour, it's a purty long story, but asy
awhile, and I'll be afther tellin' ye," replied Jack, as he
pulled out his tin tobacco box ; and after twisting off a
chew with his teeth, closed the box and replaced it in his
pocket, and spat out as dry as a cuckoo, as a hint that
he'd like a drink before he commenced.

Mr. Williams, acting on the suggestion, filled a horn
goblet with the needful from a miniature baiTel close by
him and handed it to Jack saying, " chewing and drink-
ing are closely allied, and always go hand in hand, you
had better wet your whistle. Jack, before you commence,
talking is dry work."

" Bedad yer honour is mighty thoughtful entirely,"

replied Jack as he seized the horn with a " thankee sur,"

and applied it to his mouth, tossing off its content43 and

began — " Wliin I wor a slip av a young man," said he " 1

wor as wild as a march hare, nothin* wor too hot nor too

heavy fur me, an' signs on it there wom't a piece o' mischief

done fur miles round the counthry but wor laid to me

charge — an' to tell nothin' but the truth, I had plenty av

me own to account fur, let alone other people's : but any

how, there wor many things laid on me that I knew nothin'

about, but that's neither here nor there. Anyway, Phil,

O'Keefe, son av ould Davy, who lives at the crass road?

over beyant Squire Grundy's big house, fell in love wid

Owen MacGowan's eldest daughter, Shusy, as purty a girl

as ye'd find in a day's walk ; I fancy I'm lookin' at her

this blessed minit wid her bright ringlets as red as goold

hangin' over her shoulders, as she passed our house on

AN IRISHMAN'S WOOING.

171

her way to the fair or market, that wor afore she Wor my
wife, rest her sowl, she's now dead and gone." He now
paused a few seconds, being too much affected to proceed.
" Well, as I wor sayin', Phil wor breakin' his neck either
her, although her father and mother would sooner see
her undher the turf than joined to any av his breed. As
fur herself, sure she hated the ground he walke'd on, he
wor sich a consaited upstart. At any rate, he tried his
level best at fairs an* markets to soother her wid his soft
talk. But all he could do wor av no use ; except to bid
him the time o'day, she never inthered into discoorse wid
him. But he wouldn't be put off ; so what does he do
but start off to her father's house one night wid a bottle
av potheen in his pocket, in ordher to get the right side
av the ould couple. Whin he went in they wor all sur-
prised to see him, but they suspected what he came fur
an* handed him a chair, av coorse out av civility, an'
waited to hear what he'd say. Afther talkin* awhile
about the crops an the breed av cattle, to show his
knowledge av farming, he purduced the bottle to sweeeten
the discoorse, at the same time drawin' his chair closer to
Shusy an* commenced to blarney an' soother her. She
howsomediver give him a could shoulder an* answered
his questions very short, an' tould him not to make so
free till he wor betther acquainted. ' But ye don't know/
says he, as he pulled the cloth she was sewin', ' that I'm in
the habit of stoppin' the girls from sewin* when I'm talk-
in' wid them.*

"'That's a habit, thin,* says she, 'that'll get yer gob
smashed for ye if ye don't lav© it off. *

17?i

THE BETORT COURTEOUS.

" * Thin/ says he, ' the colleen who does that same will
have to many me/

" ' Troth, thin, a purty prize they'll have to brag av'
says she.

" * Wid that he touched her under the chin playfully.

" * Stop yerself now, Phil O'Keefe/ says she ; * single
yer freedom an' double yer distance, av ye plase ; I'll cut
me cloak off no sich cloth.* Wid that she rose from her
seat an' dashed past him wid vexation at his imperance.

" • All right, Shusy, agra,* says he. * Shure there's as
good fish in the say as ever was caught.*

" * I'm sorry to see that Shusy has turned her back on
me,' said he to her mother, ' for I'd loike to become con-
nected wid yer family. In the mane time, hadn't ye bet-
ther get us a glass, till we dhrink a bottle on the head av
it, anyhow ? ' .

" ' Why, thin, Phil,* says the mother, * I don*t wish ye
any harm, but, as for Shusy, she don't care for ye, an'
don't wish to have anything to say to ye ; and, besides,
we don't wish the connection. Shusy has a purty dacent
fortune ; besides, the two mouUeen cows that her grand-
father left her whin he died five years ago, rest his sowl !
has brought her stock enough for any farm. If slie mar-
ries you, Phil, where's the farm to bring herself an' hsr
cattle to ? Shurely, it's not upon thim ten acres o' bog
an heather that I'd let me daughtei an' her fine stock av
young cattle go to live. So now, Phil, put yer bottle av
whiskey back in yer pocket agin, for there's no use in you
thrying to tcm[>t meself nor me daughter wid it ; an' go

,>,^^"^

AN ABDUCnoK.

173

home an* mind yer business ; an' when ye want a wife
go to your own equals, an' not to a girl like Shusy Mac-
gowan, that could lay down goold guineas where ye
couldn't lay down pennies, d'ye mind.'

" * Oh, very well, Mrs. Macgowan,' s&ya Phil, as he pock-
eted the bottle agin wid a face the lengt h av me arm, * af
yerself an' yer daughter have sich big feelin's sure there's
no harm done. Good-night, ma'am.' "^

" But what has this to do with losing your leg. Jack ?"
asked the major. " We want to hear how j'^ou lost one
of your understandings."

" Well yer honour, wid submission, sure I'm comin' to
that same. But, only for this same Phil O'Keefe, I'd
never have got Shusy Macgowan for a wife.

" Well, as I wor a sayin', things passed oii till afther
Christmas, when one night Phil, accompanied by ten or
twelve av his chums, started off to Mrs. Macgowan's house
to carry off Shusy by mane force. The family were in
bed by the time they reached the house,whin they rapped
at the door with great violence, and threatened to smash
it into smithereens if they were not admitted. The
mother had her ouspicions that they wor after Shusy
80 what does she do but sends her daughter to her own
bed, an' lie down herself in her daughter's. In the mane
time the father got up, lit a candle, an' opened the door.

" * Put out that light, Macgowan,* cried a strange voice,
' except ye want yer own lights extinguished forever.'

" This scared the ould man, an' he blew out the light,
fur fear the ruffians 'ud carry out the threat. The next

174

A SLIGHT MISTAKB.

moment they rushed into the room where they well, knew
that Shusy slept, but ye see they wor decayed for wonst.
But without a word hoisted the ould woman on one
of their bracks, thinkin' it was the daughter, clappin' her
on the top av a horse they had outside an* started off.

" Now, above all nights in the year, who should be
dead but poor, ould Larry Regan the blacksmith, rest his
sowl ! So as meself, Mickey Kinshella, an* Briney, his
brother, wor bringin* home whiskey for the wake, we
met the party av abductors. At first we thought that
they wor goin* to the wake ; but when I saw the ione
woman among the set, perched on horseback behind one
av the thaves, I suspected that all wasn't right. So I
fell back a bit an' walked near enough to hear the dis-
coorse, widout bein* observed by the party, an* discovered
the whole plot.

" In less than no time I wa^ back at the wake-house,
where I collected about twenty strappin' fellows wid
good kippeens in their fists, an* off we started, fully deter-
mined to brin' the ould woman back or die in the attempt
But be me sowl we had a purty dacent fight afore we
bate the blackguards, and rescued the dacenC woman
from their clutches. And 'troth I was the man that
placed her behind me on the same horse that carried
her off.

" From that out I wor the white-headed boy wid the
mother an* Shusy, an' maybe I didn't put the comehither
on the daughter, till she giv' in that she couldn't live
widout me. The father, however, were entoirely against

THE PICNIC.

175

the match, an' swore that he 'udn't sanction it at all at
all, bekase I wor so poor, but the colleen's mother wor for
me. So one day, after drinkin' a bottle or two av whis-
key wid the mother, Susy an' her cousin, Hanna MeShane,
along wid Jerry Gearty, on my part, in their own barn. ""
unknownst to the father, we agreed to make a runaway
match av it."

" What has all this to do with the wooden leg. Jack ? "
queried the major.

" Well, asy yer honour, sure I'm comin* to it.

" The next Sunday we met at a picnic in Squire Eyre's
woods, where we spent the day in divarsion. I batin*
them rll dancin', leapin', an' throwin' the stone, fur I felt
the strength of ten men in me, as she looked on an'
smiled when I'dlea^e them long behind me.

" Toward dusk they all left the ground except Shusy
an* myself, an' one or two other couples who maybe had
the same sort o' business on hand. ' Shusy me darlin,
acu'jhla bawn machree,' says I, * its dark enough now, let
us be off.' She looked into my face wid her bright eyes,
an' trembled like a lafe.

** * If I trust meself wid ye. Jack, avoumeen* says she
an' her sweet voice broke into purty murmurs as she
spoke, * promise me afore the blessed stars an' skies above
us that ye'll never decave yer own Shusy,' an* her eyes
filled wid wather.

" I had only one answer to make. I pulled her to me
breast where she laid her head and cried like a child, wid
her rosv cheek against mine.

■*■

\%4

176

CfiADE MtLLE FAILTHA.

" "WTiin it was quite dark, we set off, an* afther ciassin'
the bog we reached a dacent neighbour's house that stood
in a lonesome place at the brink av the bog, where a few
friei (is wor expectin* us, an' received us with ceade mille
failtha, an' the best av eatin' an' dhrinkin wor laid afore
us. Many a good song an' hearty jug o' punch wor sent
round that night. TLe draggin' home took place next
day, whin the match wor made by the ould pec^ple. She
had a fortune av forty goold guineas, ten head liv cattle,
a feather bed, wid sheets, quilts, an" blankets, a r.hest av
bleached linen, an* a flock av geese she reared herself.
Next day preparations were made for the weddin*. Meself,
Miles Maclusky, an' Ned Maguire wint up the moimtain
to ould Josiah Cluther buck's still-house, where wo spent
a glorious day iastin' his whiskey that had a bade on it
the size of peas. We brought ten gallons av the blessed
stuff, that one crapper av it 'ud brin' the tear to a young
widow's eye that had lost a bad husband, fur the people
knew nothin' about waterin' it thin at all at all I thin
bought a new suit av clothes an' Caroline hat.

" Ned Blake, the schoolmaster, lent me his watch fur

the occasion, au learned me how to tell the time o' dr,y by
it» Well, the weddin* mornirJ came at last, and the bridal

party started lor the preast's house. As we were startin'

ould Nancy Quirk, who tells fortunes an' gives charms

took meself on one side.

"*Jack,* says she, 'there's people in the party that

wishes ye ill — that 'ud like to be in yer shoes this blessed

day.

"'Th<
Macgowl
law, wh(

"'HeJ
ful that I
party, sj
more abj
nothin'
house.'

* Ax me

she don(
riage, ui
wor an'
»''We
what sh<
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not, silv(
self.*

"Ithi
get whi<
round n
«'Ke
she, ' an
to cause
« She
us for ]
lie, for ]

Y -J.,

miBH PISHTROGEa

17?

** * There's Betty Delaney, the wrinkled ould hag, the
Macgowans axed hei fur the sake av her dacent son-in-
law, who ran off with her daughter Mag.

" ' Her breath isn't good, Jack, I can tell ye, so be care-
ful that you don't get into any danger, while she's in the
party, strange things are said av her. Maybe I know
more about her nor I'm going to mintion. It's not fur
nothin' the brown hare hunts the shrubbery, behind hei
house.*

" ' But, what harm could she do me Betty ? * says I,
* Ax me no questions Jack ' said she, ' don't I know what
she done to Tom Cavan, for seven years after his mar-
riage, until I relieved him ; 'twas gone to a skeleton he
wor an' didn't he pay me dacently.'

•* ' Well, what am I to do, Betty ? ' says I, knowin* weU
what she sed war thrue.

" Ye must crass my hand wid goold av ye have it, \i
not, silver will do,' says she, * and thin lave the rest to me*
self.' ,

** I thin took out a crown piece, or a half crown, I for-
get which, an' gave it to her. She thin tied a red tape
round me wrist, while she muttered some bog latin.

" * Keep that round yer wrist for nine days Jack,' says
she, ' an' there's no fear av that ould witch's pishtrogea
to cause ye any harm.'

" She thin pulled off her ould shoe, an' threw it afther
us for luck. Bud ye see the ould hag Lould a barefaced
lie, for I broke me leg that same day afther bein' married,

178

JERRT MACDONALD'a

but faith I b'lieve I lost the red tape afore I got married,
for I never laid me eyes on it from that day to this."

" How did you get your leg broken, Jack ? " asked the
. major.

*' Sure yer honour, I'm comin* to that part av it. It's
always customary in these parts av Ireland/' continuetl
Jack, " afther gettin' the knot tied to go into the first
shebeen we meet on the way home from the priest's house,
to dhrink healths apiece all round, more especially to the
new married couple.

" Accordingly, in ordher to keep up the ould Irish
fashion, we |eint into Jerry Macdonald's, at the crass reads
— where the whiskey wint round in fine ould Irish style,
till at last their heads began to get too heavy for their
heels, whin a fight began, an' in less time than ye could
say Jack Robinson, the blood wor spoutin' from their
bare pates like wather from a fountain. Och, murther
sheery ! sich knocking down, sich cursin*, swearin' an'
roarin' among the min, an' screehin' an clapin' av hands
an' wiping av heads among the women, whin a brother,
or son or a husband, 'ud get his skull cracked.

" In the manetime, meself and Phil O'Keefe, through
some jealousy or other regardin' his love for Shusy, got
clinched outside the house, an' wor pastin' each other ;
finally whin we both tumbled into a blind well in the
garden, an' a purty deep one too. Afther we wor pulled
up out av the well, our spirits were cooled down finely,
for we la^ at the bottom of the well till the fight was
over. In fallin' down the well I got my leg broke above

•'■W

SATAN REPROVIKO SIN.

179

the ande, an' Phil got his nose split in two, so that each
half av it falls over on each cheek from that day to this.

" Meself after lyin' on me back fur six months undher
the thievin* docther's care, wor forced in the long run to
have me leg taken oflTabove the knee, to save me life.

" To make things worse (fur they say misfortunes
never come alone) poor Shusy took the faver while she
wor nursing me, an* died wid a broken heart, rest her
Bowl!"

"Jack," said the major, after the story was ended,
" that was a terrible affliction you had brought on your-
self and wife through drink, which you can never suffi-
ciently atone for. One would have thought that you
would at least abstain from the use of intoxicating li-
quors during the remainder of your life, in order to make
in some way restitution for the great and grievous sin
you had committed."

" Well, yer honour," replied Jack, after a minute's sad
reflection, " shure the spirit within me is willin' ei^ough
to do that same, but the greedy flesh is wake, I can't re-
sist the temptation av a weeney dhrop whin I'm out in
the cowld."

"Well, Jack," said Mr. Williams, filling out another
horn and handing it to Jack, " this weeney drop will do
you no harm anyway after that interesting story.

" Bedad yer honour, I quite agree wid you on that
point, meself," replied Jack, as he took the goblet and
gulped down its contents.

By this time we had reached Portumna, in time for to

180 " PULLINQ HARD AQAINST THE STBEAM."

witness the first race, which was to com«» off at twelve
o'clock. The officc^-j wont on board one of the yachts,
which was to sail in the match, while Jaclc and I betook
ourselves to the gig, and rowed out on the lake, where we
had an excellent view of the regatta. After enjoying the
day's sport, the officers returned about nine o'clock, p.m.
when we started to row back to barracks ; after we rowed
eight miles, we came to a lock which was open as we passed
through going down in the morning, but now it was shut,
and wo had no alternative but to carry our boat to the
other side of the lock. This was no easy job, for the boat
wivB rather hqavy for four men to carry such a long dis-
tan(^e; especially when one of them had a wooden leg.
However, after much lugging and tugging, we accom-
plished the arduous task.

After rcssting and refreshing ourselves. Jack of course
had to get another "lueeney Ihrop " as he called it, "av
spirits to keep out the cowld," we started again with re-
newed, vigour. In going down in the morning we thought
nothing of rowing fourteen miles with the tide, while Jack
related his amusing story ; but now rowing back against
the stream was quite a different affair, the current ran so
very swiftly, we had hard work to make headway against
it. However, with good pluck, a long pull, a strong pull,
and a pull all together we braved the stream and reached
the barracks at two o'clock in the morning. Scarcely
a day passed without a boating, fishing, or shooting ex-
cursion of some kind. These facilities for amusement and
exercise make it a very pleasant station, and moreover

'•;•'

▲BRIVAL 1st BALLINASLOB.

181

the town has ^ clean, neat and tidy appearance, compared
with some towns we ha\e seen in Ireland. It can boost
of one decent inn " Mann's Hotel," besides several other
public-houses, with skittle-alleys attached, which unfor-
tunately many of our men patronized.

On one occasion two of ourcf" Mmny had an altercation
with a couplo of the police, at ; of these places of de-
bauchery, when the latter tried to take the two soldieis
to the station-house ; this the soldiers objected to, where-
upon a rpw ensued ; then several of the police joined and
were forcing the soldiers off, when their comrades in bar-
racks, having been warned of the row by some person,
rushed out of barracks with naked bayonets in their hands,
rescued the two soldiers and beat the police, driving the
whole force out of the town, and chased them through the
country, where they skedaddled and hid in the potatoe
fields. Several of the police got hurt in the mSlde but not
very seriously. Our company and the police never could
agree after that encounter, but they never again attempt-
ed to take any of our men to the station-house. About
a month after the row with the police, however, we got
relieved by No. 6 Company from headquarters.

On the 27th of October, we marched out of barracks at
two o'clock, p. m., as the relieving company marched in.
After a march of sixteen miles we arrived at Ballinasloe
at seven o'clock in the evening, where we were billeted
for thenight. The railway, which was in course of construc-
tion, as we passed here en route to Banaghar, being now
finished, and the trains running on it we took the cars at

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182

MAJOR BOUBCHIEB.

eleven o'clock, a.iB., arriving at Gal way at twelve, wWe
we were met by the band, which marched at the head oi
the company down Main street, playing the ** British
Grenadiers,'' as we marched into the Shamble Barracks.
One month after this, Major Bourchier had exchanged to
the 54th Regiment, which was stationed in the East
Indies. The night previous to his departure, his brother
officers of the regiment entertained him as their guest at
the mess, where they demonstrated many expressions of
deep regret at his leaving, and of the loss to the regiment
of such an old and well-tried officer, who had won so many
laurels in that memorable campaign of Affghanistn.n in
1838, undei^the gallant Sir John Keane. He was present
at the occupation of Candahar, at the storming of
Ghuznee and Khelat, and at the surrender of Cabul. For
which gallant service his breast was decorated with the
indubitable evidence of his bravery and Hdelity to the
British Crown.

After bidding the men of his company good-bye, with
tears in his eyes, he left for India, the scene of his early
triumphs, taking with him the best wishes and prayers
for his future welfare, especially of his own company, the
grenadiers, to whom he had ever been a father during his
command. Many of the men, as well as the officers,
accompanied him to the railway station to see him off and
take th«ir last farewell. Need I say we lost a friend.

He was succeeded, however, by Captain John Croker,
a Limerick man, not only the tallest officer in the regimeoit,
but the senior captain, who formerly commanded number

TOWN OF GALWAT.

183

eight company, and was well known to the greni^tiera for
his genial disposition. /

Galway has a population of ahout' 25,000 ; the whole
town is poorly built and irregular, and some of its old
houses have the Spanish architectural design, easily
accounted for by the great intercourse which at one time
subsisted between Galway and Spain. The new town
consists of well planned and spacious streets, well built on
a rising ground, which slopes gradually towards the
harbour ; many of its suburbs are a very humble collec-
tion of wretched cabins — inhabited by a poor class of
people. One of these suburbs called the Claddagh, is
inhabited by fisherman who exdnde all strangers and
live perfectly among themselves, electing their king, etc,
and ever marrying within their own circle. ^ These
tishermen still speak the grand old Celtic language, and
the old Irish costume is still worn by the women — open
gowns and red petticoats.

They annually elect a mayor, whose functions are to ad-
minister the laws of their fishery, and to superintend all
internal regulations. One of these fishermen's sons took a
great liking to the soldiers, and frequently came into the
barracks to witness the regiment on parade, hear the band
play, and to see us at drill. He was a well proportioned
and powerfully built young man, eighteen years old»
and about six feet four inches in height, of fine limb and
martial aspect. He applied to the sergeant-major to en-
list, when that officer took him before the colonel, who
approved of his personal appearance, and he was enliatad

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AK IRISH

"CAMP*

184

in the 17th regiment, his name was Faddy Belton. A
few days afterwards, his father, a weather-beaten old fish-
erman, of about sixty years of age, came into the barracks
and tried to buy him off, but it was no use, the young
fellow had his raind made up, and wished to be a soldier.
After receiving his kit, and getting into his uniform, he
invited a comrade and myself to a " camp" in his village.
These "camps," as they were called, are very much on the
same principle as " bees" in Canada, or the United States,
with this difference, however, that at " bees" there are no
competitors for the attainment of any social rank, but
merely get the work done as quickly as possible. Whereas
at these " caiaps" in Ireland, there is a keen contest of
skill, or competition for priority — a display of female
powers at the spinning of yam.

It is, indeed, a cheerful and animated gathering of the
bright fair girls of the village. Although strong and
desperate rivalry is the order of the day, it is conducted
in a spirit so light-hearted and friendly, that I scarcely
know a more interesting or delightful amusement in a
country life. When a " camp" is about to be held, the
affair soon becomes known in the neighbourhood ; some-
times young women are asked, but in most instances so
eager are they to attend that invitations are unnecessary*
in winter time, and in mountain districts, it is often as
picturesque as pleasant. The young women usually begin
to assemble at four o'clock in the morning, and as they
always go in groups, accompanied, of course, by their
sweethearts, or sn«>^' jjolIq relative, each of the lattei

^% '

s -.;, -ss

FUN AND FBOLia

185

bearing a large torch of well dried bog-deal to light up,
their (sometimes) intricate path. While their voices, song
and laughter break upon the stillness of the morning with
a holiday feeling, made live times more delightfnl by the
darkness of the hour. The spinning wheels are carried
by the young men, amidst an agreeable volley of repartee.
From the time they arrive the mirth is fast and furious,
nothing is heard but badinage,laughter, songs, conversation
and anecdotes, all in a high key ; among the loud humming
of spinning wheels, and the noise of reels, as they inces-
santly crack the cuts in the hands of the reelers, who are
perpetually turning them from morning till night, in order
to ascertain the quantity which every competitor has spun,
and whoever has spun the most wins the ** camp," and is
queen for the night. At the conclusion of the ** camp "
we all repaired to the supper, which consisted of i^ew
milk and flummery which they thought was most deli-
cious and wholesome food. This agreeable meal being
over ; we all repaired to the dancing room, where Mickey
Gaffey, the piper, was installed in his own peculiar arm-
chair of old Irish bog-oak. A shebeen man named Barney
O'Shea, had brought a large jar of potheen to cheer the
boys' hearts for the occasion, of which they* fireely partook
before and after the dancing commenced.

Space will not admit of a more detailed account of the
dancing, fun and frolic, i)or of the good humour which
pervaded among them that night. It is enough to say
that the old people performed cotillions, and the young
folks jigs, reels, and country dances. Hornpipes were

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OALWAt BAT.

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performed upon doors (the floor being of earth) with the
greatest skill. My comrade and myself enjoyed the dance
which was kept up all night ; the boys taking a drop of
potheen between the dances, to keep their spirits up by
pouring spirits down, and many a jug of hot whiskey-
punch was passed around during the night. Luckily there
was no fighting while we remained, but towards the small
hours of the morning their propensity for the pugnacious
became very perceptible, by the amount of loud talking
and excited arguments brought about by an over-indul-
gence of the soul-stirring element, together with the ex-
cessive attention to the fair sex by some of the supercilious*
However myself and comrades left before any tow took
place. As our leave expired at six o'clock in the moming»
when we had to report ourselves to the sergeant of the
quarter-guard, so therefore we left the party about four
o'clock witih whole skins and got safe to barracks without
a scratch, about six, and gave in our passes to the sergeant
and were just in time for morning parade, when we were
drilled till a quarter to eight, but would much rather lie
down and sleep.

The principal buildings in Qalway are the Queen's
College, which* was just opened a year before our arrival
there ; among the other edifices are three monasteries and
five nunneries, Smith's College, the Court house and bar-
racks, with the grand old Churph of St. Nicholas. It has
numerous flour and other mills, also breweries and distil-
leries. Extensive salmon and sea-fishing are carried on
here.

IV.,.

« v. ■ -•

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MONASTIC REICAIKS.

187

*Pbe Mk/ li a large expanse of water about eighteeii
miles iroa() at its seaward extremity, diminishing to about
eight miles inland, and being about twenty miles long.
It is protected from the swell of the Atlantic by the Ar-
ran Islen ; 8outh->vest from Oalway to the sea is the dis-
trict called Connemara, which contains vast bogs, moors
loughs and marshes which present a bleak and dreary
a*ipect.

Gal way abounds in ancient remains of Celtic as well as
of the Norman period. Cromlechs and monastic remains
are found in several pt^rts of the country. A very fine
specimen of this class is that of Knocknoy, near Tuam,
besides several other round towers. Our officers amused
themselves both in fishing and shooting, when off duty ;
they frequently could be seen with rod and line landing
a lai'ge sized salmon on the banks of the river ; whilfl
others could be seen coming into barracks in the evening
with their dogs and guns and their bags well filled with
game, after their day's sport. Besides these enjoyments,
they oganized an amateur dramatic company, with Lieut.
Lindsay, Lieut. Coulthurst.and Ens. Williams at its head,
with the band and a few smart non-commissioned officers
and privates which was well patronized by the officers and
their ladies, besides many of the Uite of the city and any
of the soldiers who wished to attend.

This created the best of friendship between the regi-
ment and citizens, and produced excellent results.

We had been for some time expecting an order fot
D iblin. Our anticipations were verified on the fifteenth

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188

ROUTE FOB DlTBLUf.

of Maitih, by the colonel receiving a large official en*
velope containing the route for the 17th Regiment to pro«
oeed by rail on the 28th of March, 1852,to Dublin, there to
be sttUbioned and do garrison duty until further orders,
and to be quartered in the Richmond barracks. The or-
der having been read to the regiment, the news soon
spread to the creditors in the town, and soon after the
barracks were besieged by tailors, shoemakers, hatters,
bakers, grocers, Jews and liquor dealers, all rushed into
barracks looking for their debtors, in order, if possible, to
collect the amount of their accounts.

Notwithstanding the credit of the regiment having
been cried down on our arrival in the usual manner,
many of the citizens and tradespeople had given credit to
several parties, but all those who cannot collect the amount
of their account now, the first tap of the big drum will
pay them, when we march out of the city.

" How happy is a soldier who lives on his pay,
And spends half a orown oat of sixpence a day."

We had fifteen days to get ready, which were occupied
in cleaning barracks, filling nail-holes, and white- washing
to obviate as much as possible that curse, barrack dam-
ages which always follows a regiment from one barracki
to another.

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CHAPTER X.

THB MAROR — RATI. TO DUBLIN— ABBIVAL—OABBISOI7 DUTT— OASTLI
OUASD — THB OLD ICAN's HOSPITAL — DIYIITB SBBYIOB— TBNT PITOH-
ING — DBATH OP THB " IBON DUKB "— FUNEBAL — THB QUBBN yism
DqBLUr — BUILDINOg AND INSTITUTIONS — THB BOUTB.

ABCH 28th, 1852, the regiment was formed on the
barrack square, at six a.m., in heavy marching
order, full kits in our packs: the companies minutely
inspected and told off by their captains ; reports col-
lected by the adjutant, when all were reported present
to the colonel, who gave the word of command " fours
right, — quick march," when they stepped off, the com-
panies wheeling to the right, out of the gate, at the same
time the band striking up some national air played up
the main street.

During the inspection the barrack-gate had been be-
sieged by a crowd of citizens, many of whom accompanied
the regiment to the railway station, where we were joined
by the two companies from the castle. While getting the
regimental baggage, women and children on the train,
the band discoursed some sweet music, causing frequent
cheers from the crowd.

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At length all was ready, when a wild metallic scream
from the engine was heard, and the train moved out slowly
from beneath the vaulted roof of the station, amid cheer
after cheer from the crowd, who were assembled in large
numbers to see us off; the band playing during the slow
departure of the train from the station, and the men
waving their handkerchiefs, in response, from the carriage
windows. At last the train quickened the speed, and
soon station and crowd faded from our view. We were
scarcely an hour in our seats — and viewing the country
as the train sped along, and admiring the beautiful green
fields, hills, and valleys, interspersed with running streams
and way-si(ie hamlets, the peasantry gazing in wonder,
while the rising generation shouted and cheered, and the
country girls waved their handkerchiefs as the long train
of soldiers passed them by — when a shrill whistle from
the engine was heard, and then with much noise, and
many a heavy sob, the vast machine swept smoothly into
the station, at Ballinasloe. There were formed into a line
on the platform, the companies from Banagher and Port-
umna, waiting our arrival to join head-quarters. The
train stopped at this station twenty minutes, when the
two companies came on board. All being ready, the train
moved off again, soon reaching A thlone, where we stopped
fifteen minutes. Here we got refreshments — a glass of
beer each man and a biscuit, which was much enjoyed,
having breakfast at five that morning. About an hour
afterwards we were in Mullingar, stopping there also
fifteen minutes, and then resumed the journey. We are

w^-^

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. V

ARRIVAL AT THE CAPITAL.

191

rapidly leaving Mullingar behind. The fields gradually
assume a green and spring-like aspect. This part of thb
country appears to be highly cultivated, occasionally a
small village in the valley, by some running stream, or
upon some hill-side, gives life and charm to the landscape*
The royal canal runs alongside of the railway all the way
from Dublin to Mullingar, and unites the Lifiy with the
Shannon in the west. As I sat at the window of the rail-
way carriage, viewing with pleasure the picturesque land-
scape, and absorbed in deep meditation on the beauties
of nature exemplified in the green undulating fields and
verdant valleys which lay before me, interspersed here and
there by crystal brooAcs which glistened in the sun, I
was roused from my reverie by a loud and long whistle
from the engine, which reminded me that we were dose
to the city. Now we can see Wellington's monument in
Phoenix Park; arriving at the station at one. o'clock,
after a ride of one hundred and thirty miles, we were
met by the band of the 39th Kegiment, who honoured us
by coming to meet us, and played at the head of the-regi-
ment to Bichmond Barracks. On arrival, we were told ofi
to our respective quarters and dismissed.

These are splendid, large airy barracks, sufficient for
two regiments, with excellent officers' and staff quarters,
but bad accommodation for married soldiers, who were
obliged to rent apartments outside of barracks, and live
like many of the civilians in tenement houses. This
is a source of great inconvenience to married soldiers
which the authorities ought to remedy at their earliest
opportunity.

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TROOPS IN DUBLIN.

' The military force in Dublin then consisted of the lUh
Hoisars, Island Bridge Barracks ; 17th Lancers, Royal
Horse Artillery and Foot Artillery, Portobello ; 2nd Dra-
goon Guards, 27th Regiment, Royal Barracks ; 32nd Light
Infantry, Shipstreet and Linen Hall Barracks ; 3Uth and
17th Regiments, Richmond Barracks ; besides depots at
Beggar's Bush — ^the whole under the command of Major-
General Sir Edward Blakeney, whose quarters were at
the Old Man's Hospital, near Phoenix Park. The regi-
ments furnish the garrison duties on their turn. In gar*
rison orders of the 30th, the 17th Regiment were detailed
to furnish the whole of the duties on the following day, viz.,
the castle ^ard, one captain, one subaltern, two ser-
geants, two corporals and twenty-four privates ; Lower
Castle, one sergeant, one corporal and six privates ; Vice-
Regal Lodge, one sergeant, two corporals and eighteen
privates ; Old Man's Hospital, one sergeant, two corporals
and twelve privates ; Kilmainham, one corporal and three
privates ; Arbour Hill Hospital, one sergeant, one cor-
poral and twelve privates ; magazine, one sergeant, one
corporal and six privates ; Mountjoy, one corporal and six
privates ; Island Bridge, one sergeant, one corporal and
twelve privates ; Picture Gallery, one corporal and three
privates ; Bank of Ireland, one subaltern, one sergeant,
one corporal and twelve privates ; Richmond, one sergeant
two corporals and twelve privates.

The guards, with the regimental colours, assemble daily
(Sundays and wet days excepted, on the Esplanade at
ten A.M. when they are trooped, the junior officer of the
Castle guard carrying the colours during the trooping.

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TROOPIKQ THE COLOUBS.

199

The regiment which furnishes the duties of the dav
also furnishes the band, wliich plays during the trooping
of the colours, when crowds of spectators assemble to wit-
ness this military review. After they march past in slow
and quick time, the guards are formed on their comman-
ders, when they are marched of! to their respective guards
by the field officer of the day. Relieving the Castleguurd
is a very imposing sight, and hundreds of people assemble
to witness this military ceremony, as well as to hear the
iweet martial music while the guards are relieving. Be-
fore the old guard marches off the new guard plants its
colours in the centre of the Castle yard, with a sentry
over them. Two sentries are posted at the gate of the
Castle yard, and two on the door of the Castle, under the
portico. All the sentries of the old guard having been
relieved, the guard is marched off by its captain, the sub-
altern carrying the colours, when the new guard salutes
the old by presenting arms, after which the new guard
takes the place of the old ; the relief being told off, they
are dismissed to the guard-room. The guards take their
rations with them, which consist of three-quarters of a
pound of beef or mutton, one pound and a-half of bread,
one pound and a-half of potatoes and onions, one-eighth
ounce of tea, a quarter of an ounce of coffee, two ounces
of sugar, wl.;h pepper and salt to each man. There being
only on» pot and pan to each guard-room, they are kept,
as you may well imagine, in active operation from the
time the men mouni guard in the morning till six o'clock
in the evening, every relief boUinj; their poutoes and

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194

THE OLD FOGIES.

It '

itnaking tea and coffee alternately as they come off sentry.
I was detailed for the Old Man's Hospital, which is a
large establishment, and consists of the Major-General's
quarters, the English Church, where the troops from Rich-
mond attended divine service, as well as the " Old Pen-
sioners," or " Old Fogies," as they are sometimes called.
There are quarters here for about eight hundred men ;
any pensioner can be admitted who applies (married men
excepted). They are required to pay in their pension for
their board and clothes ; the latter consists of cloth trou-
sers, red tunic, which comes down below the knee, and a
Napoleon hat. They have no guard duty to perform, only
to keep themselves and quarters clean and in proper order.
They are all well satisfied, and seem happy ; chatting,
and fighting their battles over again. The grounds, walks,
avenues, shrubbery, kitchen garden, and fiower-beds
around this institution show the taste, cleanliness and
discipline of these old veterans, whose home it now is,
provided by a grateful country.

Being relieved from giiard next day, we had kit inspec-
tion by the commanding officer, accompanied by Major
Cole, who had just joined the regiment. Sunday, church
parade at 10 a. m. Having been inspected, we marched
off, the band playing through Kilmainham to the Old
Man's Hospital, where the Protestants and Roman Catholics
parted for the time being, the latter marching to St.
Mary's Church on Arran Quay. As we marched along
the Liff^y, the sweet strains of music which re-echoed
along the river from the different bands as they marched

'■ 'Mt^'- 's-ii' 'tMi id^AHioj^Ai

DKATH Of TBE '*IBON DUXB.*

195

to chtitcli was truly soul-stirriDg, and caused amost plea-
sant sensation, which raised our thoughts heavenward.
It is deeply to be regretted that military bands do not now
play on marching to church on Sunday owing to Puritan
objections.

Strict military discipline, numerous general field days
and reviews, drilling at tent pitching in the nine acres,
regimental drill and parades, with five nights in bed
between guards, kept our men pretty well employed;
but the beautiful walks in Phoenix Park, and driving to
the strawberry beds on side-cars with our sweethearts
on Sunday afternoons, together with the numerous other
amusements, such as theatres, concerts, museums, picture
galleries, and the scenery of every-day life in the city,
compensated our men well for the hard duty and strict
discipline. We were, therefore, well pleased with Dublin
as a military station.

Now came a sad and mournful event to the army. The
Duke of Wellington — the " Iron Duke " — ^that noble and
illustrious warrior and statesman, whose glorious and
eventful life history relates, and old veterans remember,
terminated his earthly career at the ripe age of eighty-
four years. This event, which took place suddenly and
imexpectedly, occurred on Tuesday, the 14th September,
1852, after a few hours' illness, at Walmer Castle, his
official residence. The intelligence of this mournful event
was received at the time with the deepest regret by the
ofl^cers and men of our regiment, and universal gloom
pervade J throughout the whole garrison. The hero <tf

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196

THE FUNEBAL PROCESSIO](|r.

Salamanca, St. Sebastian, Quatre-Bras, Ligny,and Water-
loo had paid the last debt. n'

On November the 1st a general order was issued direc-
ting one officer, one sergeant, and twelve rank and file
from each regiment in garrison to proceed, on the 8th
instant, to London, to take part in the funeral procession
of the late Field Marshal, His Grace the Duke of Wel-
lington. Lieutenant Earle, Sergeant Plant, and twelve
rank and file (I being one of the latter), to parade on the
Esplanade, with the detachments from the other regi*
liients in garrison, where we were inspected by the gene-
ral, and marched off, with a field officer in charge, going
on board the steamer at the North Wall, at 6 p.m. We
had on board one hundred and fiftv picked men from
the corps stationed in Dublin, I being the smallest man
of the party, and I was five feet eleven. The men vied
with each other in a smart, soldier-like appearance.

All being ready, the capte^in cried out " all aboard," and
shortly afterward the steamer moved out slowly from the
quay, passed clear of the shipping and Pigeon House
Fort on the right, where detachments of our men assem-
bled and gave us three cheers, waving their handker-
chiefs. The steamer rushing onwards, city and shore
faded away, and nothing but heavy clouds and water
could be seen. The evening had an angry appearance ;
darkness closed around, the soldiers thought it looked
like a storm, but they were mistaken, although the
vessel rolled and pitched more than we thought agree-
able. After a great deal of rolling and pitching, with a

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1

KELSON AND WELLINGTON.

197

frequent wave breaking over our bows, we steamed in<jo<
Liverpool docks at six o'dock in the morning, landed, ^t
breakfast, marched to the railway station, took the train
at U a.m. for London.

The morning was bright, invigorating and beautiful;
the swift-winged train going thundering along at the
rate of forty miles an hour. After a ride of one hundred
and eighty miles in five hours, we were set down at Eus-
ton Station. While in London we were quartered in
Regent Park. On the morning of the 13th November,
nothing could be more imposing than the whole line of
this melancholy procession. The day was fine and the
appearance of the troops splendid. The streets were
lined with cavalry and infantry most of the way from
Chelsea Hospital, where the body had lain in state, to
St. Paul's Cathedral. At twelve o'dlock the cortege left
the hospital escorted by a guard of honour.

To detail the order of the procession would occupy too
much space here; suffice it to say, that the bands played
the dead march, and minute guns fired as the funeral
cortege marched to St. Paul's Cathedral, where the body
was lowered into the crypt, close to the last earthly rest-
ing place of the heroic Nelson, waiting for the trumpet to
turn-out. The funeral was one of the mast gorgeous and
solemn spectacles that had ever before been witnessed in
England.

This solemn duty having been performed, we all re-
turned by rail next morning to Liverpool, where we took
the steamer at six p.m., for Publin, arriving there at «ix

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m the morning, after a rough passage, with several caset
of sea-sickness, when we marched to our respective bar-
racks.
The regiments stationed in Dublin are changed from

one barrack to another every ten months, ours having
been in Richmond the prescribed time, were changed with
the 6drd from the Royal Barracks. The first of April
we marched from Richmond, meeting the 63rd, when the
junior saluted the senior, the 17th being the oldest regi-
ment, we had the honour of their salute. On arrival we
were quartered in Palatine Square. The change we
hailed with pleasure, as it brought us closer to the amuse-
ments of the city. Twelve men of each company were
now armed with the Miniu rifle, rather an improvement
on the Old Brown Bess, and proceeded to the Pigeon
House Fort, there to go through a course of rifle instruc-
tion c>n the beach ; this course being finished, the rifles
were handed over to twelve others, who went through a
course in the same manner, and so ion, until the whole
battalion had gone through a course of rifle instruc*
tion. In the summer of the same year, the Queen and
Prince Albert visited Dublin. A message having been
received that Her Majesty and the Prince were to land
at Kingstown, the grenadiers and light company wer»
ordered to proceed by rail from Westland Row Station to
Kingstown, as a (^ard of honour. We were formed in
two lines facing inwards from the terminus to where the
Royal yacht was to come alongside, forming a passage
which was spread with a red carpet, for Her Majesty and

the

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LOTAL BECEFnON.

199

tbe Prince to walk on to the railway carriage. We wpre
standing there an hour when the Royal yacht was des-
cried in the distance, and as she steamed into the harbour
the ships in the port fired a royal salute. The yacht com-
ing alongside the quay, we could plainly see Her Majesty
and the Prince walking the deck close to where we st6bd.
Her Majesty looked splendid, and wore a plain plaid
shawl, and seemed well pleased with the reception. Soon
after arrival the Royal couple landed. As her Majesty
stepped on shore, the guns of the fortress belched forth a
royal salute, at the same time the bands played " God save
the Queen." A special train was in readiness, which
conveyed the floyal couple and guards of honour to Dub-
lin, where they went in an open carriage to the Vice-regal
Lodge, accompanied by several troops of cavalry.

On the occasion of Her Majesty and the Prince land-
ing, many thousands of people were present, and on the
street along the route to the Yice-Regal Lodge, were im-
mense crowds, who cheered and waved their hats, Her
Majesty and the Prince most gracefully acknowledging
their loyalty. Two days afterwards, the troops in garri-
son were ordered to assemble in review order at ten a. m.
in the fifteen acres, to be reviewed before Her Majesty
and Prince Albert.

On the day appointed, the troops were marched into
the park, bands playing at the heads of their respective
corps (accompanied by thousands of citizens) and were
formed in line of contiguous columns facing the east*
with the field batteries on the flanks, aiid the cavalry in
the rear, at ten a. m.

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After waiting a few minntes, Sir Edward Blakeney and
his staff arrived, when be deployed the troops into lina

On the appearance of Her Majesty on the grounds the
artillery fired a royal salute; the infantry presenting arms
and the bands playing " Ood save the Queen." Her Ma-
jesty, in an open carriage, drove down the front of the
line inspecting the whole, including the boys of the Hi-
bernian School After the inspection the troops marched
past Her Majesty in slow, quick, and double time. The
Queen seemed delighted with the marching past ; after-
wards they were put through several field movements.
As the Queen was looking on with admiration, the crowd
made a rush, determined to take off the horses and to
draw Her Majesty in her carriage themselves.

This Prince George took for an attempt to assault
Her Majesty's person, not understanding the warm-
hearted character and good nature of the Irish, when he
called out for the cavalry to form up, but when he found
that he mistook the people's loyalty to the Queen he
apologized. \ .

This little contretemps caused the Queen to smile at
the mistake he made, and after witnessing the review and
many evolutions including pursuing practice by the 11th
Hussars, she drove off (well pleased with the review) to
the Vice-Regal Lodge accompanied by an escort of cav-
aby.

The troops were then marched to their respective bar-
racks, with their bands playing.

Q^ c^rriyfU in ban^acks the grenadiers and light com*

'.•*.

THK GBEAT IRISH EXHIBITION.

201

pany were detailed for a guard of honour to Her Majest^jr
during her visit at the Vice-Regal Lodge, and be en-
camped in front of the lodge in readiness to turn out at
Her Majesty's pleasure. After Her Majesty's departure
the regiment was moved from the Royal to Ship Street
Barracks, with two companies at Linen HalL We also
formed a guard of honour on the occasion of the Lord
Lieutenant opening the great Irish exhibition. The pub-
lic buildings of Dublin are famed for their number and
grandeur. In the first class may be mentioned the Bank
of Ireland, formerly the House of Parliament, Trinity Col-
lege, the Custom House and the Four Courts, which, from
the chasteness of their design, and the massiveness of
their proportions, have a very imposing effect. There ,
are numerous places of worship — Roman Catholic
and Protestant — monasteries, convents, and a Jewish
Synagogue.

The most remarkable among the Protestant churches
are, St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christ's Church, and
among the Roman Catholic St. Mary's, St. Saviour's, St.
Augustine's, and St. Revin's. Here also we find monu-
ments of William the Third, in College Green; of Nelson, in
Sackville Street; of the Duke of Wellington in the Park,
with several others. The squares, which are very num-
erous, spacious and well kept, are Stephen's Green, which
occupies an area of twenty acres, and a mile in circuit ;
Merrion Square, the most aristocratic ; the Trinity Col-
lege Square occupies more than forty acres ; Rutland
Square, with the Rotunda at the end of SackvUle Street.

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DUBIIN AVD TJBU ENYIRONB.

^x-

The environs of Dublin are especially beautiful. Rath-
mines, a southern suburb, is a favourite residence of the
wealthier part of the mercantile community ; Qlasnevin,
on the north, deserves special notice, being the last rest-
ing place of the remains of Dan. O'Connell, Curran, and.
Tom Steele. The Phcenix Park is a magnificent area oi
nearly 2,000 acres, having a large amount of timber, which
shelter immense herds of deer ; it affords scope for military
reviews, and is most extensively used by the inhabitants
for recreation. The Liffy is crossed by nine bridges, two
of which are iron, and throughout the whole extent of the
city, the b^nks of the river are faced with granite walls.
At Christmas, our captain, John Croker, treated the
company to a barrel of Guiness's xx porter. Lieutenants
Coulthurst and Earle looked after the sergeants and
married men, in the way of several substantials to cheer
their hearts on the festive occasion, when the usual
decorations of the company's rooms with evergreens,
mottoes and emblems were tastefully arranged and carried
out under the supervision of the non-commissioned officers,
and a happy convivial evening was spent with songs,
toasts and sentiments, with a hop to wind up with. Win-
ter here is very pleasaht, not much drill, visiting theatres
and concerts in the evening. Our term here is short
though. On the 16th February, 1854, we srot the route
for Templemore, a town ninety miles south-west q(
Publio,

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CHAPTER XL

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4KKiyAL AT TEMPI.BMORE — THE BOUTE TO COBK — SBfBABKATIOir^
FOB OIBBALTAB — QUEENSTOW^ — THE VOYAGE — BTOBM AT SEA—
OIBBALTAB.

T ten a. m., after inspection by Colonel McPherson,
C.B., who took command of the regiment, vice
Styte, who retired, we marched to the Great South-western
Railway Station, the band playing the " British Qrena-
diers," accompanied by crowds of people, who gave us
three cheers as the train moved from the station, the band
playing " Auld Lang Syne," and the men waving their
handkerchiefs. After a run of one hundred miles in
three hours, we arrived in Templemore and marched to
our respective quarters. These barracks are built on the
Mime plan as those at Richmond, and large enough for
two regiments. The town is small and dull, but the
country very pretty. We were here a little over two
months when we got the order to proceed to Cork, by rail,
on the 27th April, there to embark on board two saiHng
transports, the Dunbar and Cornwall, two sister ships ;
the right wing to go in the latter, and the left in the
former.

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War with RuBsia having been declared on Friday, MaroL
28th, we all agreed that, though ordered to Gibraltar, be-
fore many months would elapse, we would have the
honour and glory of taking the field shoulder to shouldei
with those troops who had already embarked for the seat
of war in the East April 27th, 1854 — The regiment
took the train at two p. m., arriving in Cork at five p. m..
distance one hundred miles in three hours. On arrival, we
were quartered in Cork barracks that night, next morning
we were conveyed to the transports, which rode at an-
chor in Queen stown harbour, by two small tug steamers.
This harboyr is unsurpassed for capacity and safety ; it
is distinguished into Upper and Lower, the latter is situ-
ated eleven miles below the city, three miles long by two
broad and completely landlocked. Its entrance is by a
channel two miles long, by one wide, defended on one
side by Forts Camden and Carlisle. The upper. portion
extends for about five miles below the city to Pas&iage ;
within the harbour are several islands, the principal oi
which are. Great Island, on which is situated the fortifi-
cations of Queenstown; Spike Island, on which is a bomb-
proof artillery barrack and convict depot ; Rocky Island,
on which are powder magazines excavated in the rock.
Each side of the harbour is richly planted with ornamen-
tal trees and shrubs, studded with beautiful villas, cottages
and terraces, and Queenstown deserves special notice for
its magnificent suburban residences of the gentry, inter-
spersed with ornamental trees, wojl-kept lawns and pro-
menades, elegantly designed, churches and chapels, red

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« BULB BBltANliU."

205

brick buildingi, splended shops with large plate glass win-
dows, and clean, wide streets, with a fine view of the ship-
ping in the harbour, make it one of the most delightful
places in Ireland. The climate being so salubrious, it is
much frequented by consumptive invalids.

The right wing were all on board (except some married
officers and their families) when each company were
shown their berths and mess-tables, after which, stowing
of knapsacks commenced. The ship's officers were busily
engaged telling off the women and children to their berths
in the after part of the ship. On the upper deck every-
thing was in confusion ; the ship's steward was getting
his fresh supplies of provisions on board for the voyage,
and the sailors stowing away in coops and pens, hens,
ducks and sheep. At last the deck was cleared, and
things put in ship-shape. The Tolls being called, and all
reported present, the watches were then told off. The
captain walking the quarter-deck, the sailors and soldiers
man the capstan, and the band ready to play, with a stiff
breeze off the land. At 3 o'clock p.m., the captain gave
the order to, weigh anchor, when the band struck u^
'* Rule Britannia," the sailors and soldiers keeping time to
the music, manning the capstan. As the anchor was trip-
ped, the sails were unfurled, and we ran out of the har-
bour, amid cheers from the shore and shipping in the har-
bour, and were soon bowling along with a stiff breeze on
the bow (N.W.)

The men were served out with hammocks and one
blanket) one tin plate, one panakin to eaoh man, one meat

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ON BOABD SHIP.

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dish, one soup-can for eaoh mess ; ever^ mess had brought
their own pudding cloths. At five, the tea-bugle sound-
ed, when orderly men repaired to the cook's galley for
the tea, and served it out in the messea After tea the
men went on deck to smoke, chat, and wonder if they
were going to be sea-sick. At 5:30, the ration-bugle
sounded, when the orderly men proceeded to draw rations
for next day, wfiich consisted of salt'pork and beef, on
alternate days, biscuits, flour, raisins, currants, tea, sugar,
cocoa, vinegar, mustard, pepper and salt ; they made the
plum-pudding for dinner, tied it up ready to boil after
breakfast next day. 80 you see Her Majesty cares for
.her gallant soldiers. The ship was skimming along with
a stiff breeze on the starboard bow — all sails set. At six
o'clock, the boatswain piped down hammocks, when they
were all swung, and as the last post sounded at nine
o'clock, they all managed to crawl into them. I was on
watch from eight to twelve ; the wind had been increas-
ing during the evening. I also observed the sky had an
angry appearance ; the sailors were all busily at work
securing every sail and making all taut. «

The wind had changed in the night, and was now blow-
ing hard in our teeth ; it was a case of tacking, and for
the landsman a very trying affair. All night it blew a
gale the wind still from the same quarter; in the night
the sailors had to shorten sail several times ; each time
the ship v^as brought round on the other tack with a tre-
mendous lurch, and mess tins, water kegs, and tin dishes
were dashed to the other side in frightful confusion.

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« TBI BOO^DINQ BILLOWB.'

f07

My watch being relieved, I turned in at twelve, an^,
with the pitching and tossing, I slept soundly until I
was awoke by the orderly sergeant turning out the men
to get their hammo'^k<* stowed on deck. When I went
on deck to put oiy hammock in the place appointed,
the wind was still blowing hard ; I had to hold on to
keep my footing ; the whole sea was alive, wave
chasing wave and bounding over each other crested with
foam. Now and then the ship would pitch her nose into
the waves even to the bulwark, and dash the billows
aside, and buoyantly rise again, bowling along at ten
knots an hour, though under moderate sail. Breakfast at
eight o'clock, of hard sea-biscuits and cocoa ; but many
were on their backs in sea-sickness. After breakfast, all
hands were ordered on deck except the orderly men, who
kept the mess in order and prepared the meals. The wind
was still very high, and the long swells began to tell on
the men : the figure-head plunged, as usual, deeply into
the water, and the heads of some of our men hanging in
agony over the gunwale and portsill in the horrors of
sea-sickness.

At the sound of the grog bugle at twelve, they all
straightened up, and very few were absent from their
half-gill of rum and two waters.

When the dinner of salt-beef and plum-pudding was
served, most of them made their appearance. After din-
ner the sun had shone through the clouds, and the men
gathered in groups on the deck to smoke and chat. The
progress of the ship was a subject of interest ; it was th9

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*• HAUL IN THE 30WLIN."

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first thing in the morning and the last at night ; and all
through the day the direction of the wind, the state of the
sky, the weather, and the rate we were going at, were the
uppermost topics of conversation. The ship was bounding
along very fast, and it was a fine sight to look up at
the clouds of canvas bellied out by the wind like the
wings of a gigantic bird, while the ship rushed through
the water, dashing it in foam from her bows, and always
dipping her figure-head into the waves, sending up a
shower of spray. There was always something exciting
in the ship, and the way in which she was handled aston-
ished us soldiers ; for instance, to see the top-gallant sails
furled when the wind freshened, or a stay-sail set as the
wind went round to the east. The furling of the main-
sail on a stormy night was a thing to be remembered for
a life-time ; twenty-four sailoi-s on the main-yard at a
time, reefing to the music of the wind whistling through
the rigging.

The sailors sing out cheerily at their work, the one who
mounts the highest or stands the foremost on the deck
usually taking the lead, thus — they cheer up —

** Haul in the bowlin',
I love you, Mary Nolan,
Haul in the bowlin*.

Eollin' yo, heave ho.'*

/ \

In comes the rope with a jerk, until the " belay," sung
out by the mate, signifies that the work is right. Then
there is a rush on the deck when the wind changes, and
the yards are to be squared as the wind comes more aft.

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CBOSSINQ THE BAY OF BISCAY.

209

Being relieved at twelve o'clock, I turned in and slepjt
well until four, when I was awoke by the watch holy-
stoning the deck, under the charge of the officer of the
watch. I need scarcely explain that the holystone is a
large, soft stone, used with water for scrubbing the decks.
It rubs down with sand, which is washed off by water
from the hose, the pump being worked by /our men, a
man directing the nozzle of the hose into every crevice ;
the force of the water washing every particle of dirt from
the hen-coops, sheep-pens and decks. The watch always
wash decks in their bare feet, their trousers turned up
above their knees. After the decks are well washed down
they are dried with swabs, and look as white as a table-
cloth ; the boards brighten with the work, not a grease
mark or spot of dirt is to be seen ; all polished off with
hand scrapers; the ropes all neatly coiled, man-of-war
fashion, not a bight out of place, and the brass-work pol-
ished and shining — ^hard work bfefore breakfast. By six
o'dpck the decks are all clean and dry, and everything
looking neat ; at nine o'clock the doctor ordered all the
women and children on deck ; the sun shone through the
clouds and all was pleasant, the ship running along with
close-roefed canvas. At sundown the wind changed round
on her larboard quarter from the north-west, and we were
making good progress across the Bay of Biscay ; we were
getting accustomed to the motion of the ship, and many
of the officers and men assembled on deck until a late
hour watching our course and looking for our port. On
Sunday morning the wind was blowing a gale ; during

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STORM AT SEA.

the twenty-four hours we made 190 miles. At ten o'clock
we were all assembled on the main deck for Dfvino Ser<
vice, which was read by the captain of the ship ; tho day
was fine, with a stiff breeze ; we were running before the
wind at the rate of ten knots an hour ; we bad slept well
all night. Going on deck next morning, I found the wind
strong from the north, and the ship going through the
water at a splendid rate, with as much sail as she could
carry, and she was dashing along leaving a broad track oi
foam in her wake. There was no resting, but a constant
pushing onward ; and as we look over the bulwark, the
waves tipped by the foam which the ship had raised, seem
to fly behind us at a prodigious speed. At ten next morn-
ing we found the ship's run during the twenty-four hours
had been 200 miles — a grand day's, work, nearly equal to
steam. We ran well before the breeze all night, untD
about six in the morning, when the wind changed to our
starboard bow, and heavy dark clouds appeared in the
distance, and the wind dropped almost to a calm, the
sails flapping against the mast all day and night.

Next morning the sailors were busy securing ropes and
getting everything ready ; they said this calm was but
weather breeding, and predicted that we were to have a
change. The glass was falling, and we were to look out foi
squalls. They were not disappointed in their morning's ex
pectations of a gale. Before morning we had it in earnest

We novices in sea life thought we had a severe storm
on Friday night, but the sailors only laughed at us when
we spoke of it. In our hammocks below we knew that

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TEBBORS OF THE DEEP.

211

the wind was blowing a gale, that the ship was pitching
and tossing about fearfully, and could hear the boatswain s
whistle, and the sailors aloft reefing sails, and the waves
breaking clean over the deck above us. At two o'clock
in the morning a heavy sea struck our starboard side.
The concussion seemed like striking against a rock ; some
were thrown clean out of their hammocks ; women and
children thrown from their berths, crockery smashed and
boxes rattled, trunks, water-kegs, tin-dishes, plates, pails
and every movable article was dashed with violence from
one side of the ship to the other.

Women and children screamed with fright, and men
jumped from their hammocks. For a few moments the
ship stood perfectly still, as if stiffened with the stroke,
'then she shivered from stem to stem, and the timbers
groaned and quivered , in a f ew^moments more she was
dashing headlong onwards through the mountain of
waves. I should think if there were any on board who
had never prayed before they must have prayed now.
Both men and women vied with each other in the ex-
change of good offices and kindly words.

Envy was subdued, passionate wrath and revenge were'
forgotten, all acted as men and women who were soon to
stand in the presence of their God. There was the pure
steady and charming light of Christian hope and love
shining beneath the very shadow of death. It was a
solemn and touching thing to hear so many strong men
acknowledge in that hour of peril, their utter helpless-
ness, and praying Him who once lay on a pillow asleep.

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THE STORM CONTINUES.

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' Lord save us, we perish" — praying Him to abide with
us. The hatches were all canvassed and fastened down,
so that none but the sailors and the soldiers on watch
could go on deck ; the sea was washing over the deck,
That was indeed an awful night, dark, chilling, and
drenching; hour after hour passed as we momentarily
expected our doom. The deck was continually washed
over by great seas. As soon as morning light ap-
peared, I managed to get on deck, though with ex-
treme difficulty, both from dizziness and the motion of
the ship. I was determined to enjoy the fresh air and
see how the ocean looked, lashed into a tempest. I had
to cling fast to keep my footing, the ship was pitch-
ing up and down, tossed like a feather in the wind. We
rode on huge mountain billows of dark leaden colour, cap-
ped with molten glass and tipped with silvery caps of
foam. As I hung on to the rope, meditating on the vast-
ness of the ocean, and waves mountains high, my soul was
deeply impressed with the omnipotence and infinity of
the God who scooped out this mighty abyss, and filled it
with those powerful waters. He hath set them their
bounds, and says to them in their wildest commotion
" thus far, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed."

This dreadlul storm raged all day, and the night was
terrible ; there was no more distance nor space ; the sky
was turned into blackness, and shut itself down upon the
ship, nothing was any longer visible on this the racecourse
of the wind ; we felt ourselves delivered over to a mer-
ciful providence. The men, women and ^children had

: *!'

TBE VOTAOE TO GIBBALTAft.

213

their second attack of sea-sickness, even the sailors werie
sick. The storm raged all next day (Sunday) and night ;
no one on board could get anything cooked, as the fires
were all put out from the sea washing over the ship :
even if they could, few could eat, — ^all were so sick.

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THE VOYAGE TO GIBRALTAR

On the wide expanse of the stonny seas,
Our noble ship swept before the breeze,
Oar gallant captain, when twelve days had mn,
Tried wich his sextant to take the sun.

The heavy fog seemed still much worse, ,
Scarcely knowing where to lay his course.
And tried and tried the stormy main,
While heavy fog seemed to kiss the plain.

The clouds they broke and showed the sky,
Placing the instrument to his eye,
The howling wind our course had fixed.
And marked the latitude at forty-six.

An eastward course he then did try.
While billows they rose mountains high ;
The captain's orders were to haul yards back,
And set the sails on the starboard tack.

The storm it rose a furious gale.
Which caused the landsmen's hearts to fail.
With deathly sick, as then the heaving ship
Rode high on billows, then her prow would dip

On the wave-washed deck with deep dismay,
The dizzy soldier feels the deck give way.
And tries in vain, as a last resource.
To catch a rope to stay him in his course.

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REPOSE AFTER THE STORM.

Rushing with nansea to the side, ^

Where the starboard watch at him did chide,
He holds on taut, while feet give way,
And clings like death to portsill stay.

But now the western winds the sails expand,
And soon the " look-out " reports he sees the land.
Where there before us in the vapour rolled,
The African mountains looming out so bold.

T. Fauounan.

Monday morning, at four o'cock, the wind changed on
our larboard quarter, and suddenly dropped. The boat-
swain pi^d all hands to square yards and make sail ;
this order was hailed by the men, and it soon reached the
women, when they all offered up prayers and thanks to
Qod for their deliverance.

The wind dropped considerably, and by twelve o'clock
all was quiet, the ship running steadily before the wind.

The usual grog-bugle sounded at twelve, when every
man made his appearance. At six in the evening the
wind fell away altogether. This repose after that f eaif ul
storm was an unspeakable blessing ; all that had been
fury was now tranquillity. It appeared to us a sign of
peace ; we could let go the rope or stay we were' holding
on by, the women and children could stand upright and
straighten themselves, and walk and move about. We
felt ourselves inexpressibly happy in the depths of this
heavenly change. All night was almost dead calm, and
it was a blessing, we all slept well after the awful pitching
and tossins; we had had the last three days. In the morn-

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*' LAND HO 1 **

215

ing, when I went on deck, the sails were flapping, and not
a breath of wind. After breakfast, the women and chil-
dren were ordered on deck, when the lower decks were
thoroughly scrubbed and cleaned, and when dinner bugle
sounded they were allowed to go below. After dinner
the upper deck was washed and cleaned. Toward even-
ing the wind changed to our starbosrrd and began to
freshen, towards morning we were running before the
wind, at nine knots an hour. At ten o'clock, a.m., I was
agreeably surprised when I heard a sailor from the mast-
head cry out, Land, ho ! I found by our captain's eyea
that the land lay off our weather beam, but though I
strained my eyes looking for the land, I could see no-
thing. It was quite an hour before I could find it, and
then it looked more like a cloud than anything else. At
length, the veil lifted, and I saw the land stretching
away to the eastward, as we neared it and saw it more
distinctly. It looked a glorious object to us soldiers,
though we were then ten or twelve miles off, yet the
' highest peaks which were above the clouds, some hun-
dreds of feet high, were so clear that they looked as if
they had been stolen out of the " Arabian Nights," or
some fairy tale of wonder and beauty. The bluff and
lofty headland of Cape St. Vincent, with its sharp de-
tached rock, white light-house, and adjacent convent
skirting the edge of the precipice, was the first land that
I saw, as the ship bounded upon our glorious waters of
Trafalgar Bay. All on board were quite recovered of
theii- sea-sickness, as the ship glided across wide bays

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216

IMFBEGNABLV OIBRALTAS.

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and along the indented const of Spain. The ship had
soon studding sails set, and she swept onward like some
large bird of prey towards the straits. Tarifa, famous in
martial story, with its low, flat-roofed houses, backed by
barren-looking, sun-scorched hills, was passed and all eyes
were turned on the tremendous scragged outline of the
African coast rising several thousand feet above the sea.
The hazy morning light added to the effect, throwing out
in relief the broad stone face and picturesque form of
Ape's Hill, streaked with shadowy fissures, crevices and
indentations, which the scorching sun failed to touch.
But the Spanish side of the straits, through which the
blue Mediterranean now became visible, engrossed the
larger share of our attention. There stood the bold rock
of Gibraltar, rearing its bald crest to the sky, a fit senti-
nel at the gate of those waters which lave the shores of
fallen but once mighty empires, now the key and glory
of Old England. The ship now hoisted her flags, which
were immediately noticed at the signal station, on the
loftiest part of the range, where a flag-staff is visible
against the sky. Some of our officers who were on the
rock before, with the aid of their telescopes could trace
many an old haunt. They knew every path on those
craggy heights. There was the town behind the old
Moorish walls, looking the same as ever ; there was the
Alameda, the convent, and many other familiar domiciles,
peeping from amongst shrubberies and gardens.

At five p.m. we cast anchor in the harbour of Gibraltar,
when the ship was besieged with bumboats of vendors ef

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PtilTIQUS.'

217

otaiiges, dates, 6gs, and luxuries of almo9t every kiiid.
Soon after a boat with a yellow flag approached the ship.
It was the health-officer, who made enquiries of our doc-
tor as to sickness on board, and was answered "all right ;
no sickness but sea-sickness," when he returned to shore,
a^d afterwards a staff-officer appeared, who informed the
captain that he had got " pratique," when "the order u>
disembark at once was given.

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, CHAPTER XII.

THB LANDINO — BARRA0K8— GARRISON DUTY— OLD NORTH KIONT—
8MDGGLIN0 — MARKET — QUEEN's BIRTHDAY — THE DINNKH —
8PEE0HBS— THE ROUTE — THE MARCH — EMBARKATION FOR THI
URIMEA— THE PARTING — THE VOYAGE— ARRIVAL AT MALTA.

AY 13th, 1854. — At 6 p.m. the right wing formed
in open columns of companies, right in front, on
the New Mole, after a very rough passage from i^ueans-
toWn ; and considering how the men were knocked about
they looked remarkably clean and well. The band and
pipers of the 92Dd Highlanders met us at the New Mole,
and played alternately during the march to the Casemate
Barracks, where we were quartered, followed by a crowd
of Rock Scoi-pions, a motley crowd of English, Irish,
Spaniards, Italians, Moors and Jews. Several soldiers
from the garrison welcomed us, and seemed pleased to see
a fresh regiment arrive to share their military duties.

By two o'clock next d^ the Dunhar arrived with
the left wing. They landed at three o'clock and joined
head quarters at the Casemate Barracks. Number six
company proceded to Catalan Bay on detachment. The
regiment was exempt from garrison duty the next day in

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SPANISH SMUQQLERS.

S19

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order to get its luggage in order and settle down in their
quarters. The following day we found the whole of the
garrison duties. The guards with colours are trooped
every day at 10 a. m/(Sundays excepted), on the Alameda,
under the field officer, assisted by the brigade major. I
was detailed for the old North Front guard, which consists
of one captain, one subaltern, one sergeant, two corporals,
and twenty-four rank and file — the, soldiers take their
rations with them on guard. The officers get their meals
sent from the mess. This guard furnishes a chain of
sentries across the neutral ground which divides the
Spanish from the British Hues.

Gibraltar is a free port, and a resort, in consequence, of
Spanish smugglers, who drive an amazing trade by run*
ning contraband goods into Spain, and vice verm, which
the British authorities endeavour to stop by all means
possible, Notwithstanding all their exertions, this frau^
is still carried on under cover of dark nights.

I being on sentry No. G post along the Spanish lines
from twelve till two, my orders were to make prisoners
of any smugglers who attempted to pass through. As I
walked up and down my post I heard some slight noise in
the long grass. I then stooped down and saw two men
crawling along the grass. I advanced towards them and
challenged "who comes there?" when they stooped down
In the grass and tried to crawl away. I then advanced
nearer and threatened to fire if they did not answer my
challenge, at the same time bringing down my musket to
the charge and full cocked. When they saw I was about

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220

I TAKE TWO PRISONEBa

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to firo they stood Btill, and answered me, saying, " Bono
Johnny, me good man, me gib you plenty bacca, me gib
you plenty gin, him ver good gin, me gib you everyting
you want, if you let me pass mit dem tings to me house
in tem gardens ; you plenty big roan, good man, come
from Inglas eh 7 you von good man, plenty drink gin,
him good for him stomach." They took up some stone
jars of gin and some tobacco and offered them to roe if I
would let them pass through the lines ; but true to my
orders, when T saw the contraband goods they had I
made them prisoners, telling them if they moved an inch
I would shoot them. At the same time I passed the
word to the next sentry to send for the sergeant of the
guard, they then went on their knees and begged off very
hard, and finally offered me all their stuff if I would let
them go; but no. As soon as the sergeant arrived I
handed him over the prisoners, with six large square
blocks of plug tobacco, and six cases of Holland's gin.
This smuggling is ever carried on and the sentries have
all they can do to prevent it. Some sentries, I regret
to say, compromise with the smugglers, tobacco and gin
being too strong a temptation for them. The guard being
relieved, we discharged our muskets into the sea most of
the guards being loaded then. The tobacco and gin were
all confiscated to the British Crown, and the smugglers
handed over to the Spanish gens d'armes to be summarily
dealt with.

The climate is warm and pleasant throughout the year,
and yet we can see the perpetual snow-capped mountains

' MOORS, SPANIARDS, JEWS, AND ITALUN& 221

of Andalusia towering heavenward in the distance. The
troops have bathing parades twice a week, at five o'clock
in Oe morning, and several times during the day, may be
seen soldiers and civilians disporting themselves like
porpoises in the water of the Old Mole. There is a market
every morning which opens after gun-fire. The Spaniards
cross the neutral ground from Spain with their mules,
loaded with all sorts of provisions, vegetables rnd fruit,
and stand outside the drawbridge waiting for the gate
to be opened at gun-fire. The market-place is fenced in
and divided into square stalls, which are rented to the
vendors, who consist of Moors, Spaniards, Jews and Itali-
ans. The Moors squat down behind their stalls with their
fez caps and turbans, big wide breeches, and a long loose
gown open in frout, yellow Morocco slippers, and smoking
long pipes. Oranges, grapes, figs, lemons, dates, olives
and fruits of almost every description are sold here daily
throughout the year, very cheap for cash. On the Queen's
Birthday, the troops in garrison, consisting of two bat-
teries Royal Artillery, two companies Sappers and Miners,
and four regiments of infantry, were drawn up in line on
the North Front, at twelve o'clock noon, each man fur-
nished with twelve rounds of blank cartridge. As the
clock in the tower struck twelve a gun fired from the
Sky Battery was the signal for a Royal salute. Then the
batteries on the rock as well as the men-of-war in the
harbour fired twenty-one guns each, and the line of
soldiers, with the field battery on their fianks, fired a,feu-
de-joie. After the smoke cleared off the men waved their

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222

WE ARE ORDERED TO THE EAST.

shakos in the air, then gave three cheers for Her Q-racious
Majesty. This was a good sight for the spectators, more
especially the Spaniards, who assembled in thousands to
witness this grand military celebration of Her Majesty's
Birthday. The troops then marched past in slow, quick and
double time ; they were then divided into armies and
put through a sham tight, which lasted till four o'clock.
We had these sham fights very frequently, and a general
review once a week during the summer months. In No-
vember we received orders to prepare for actice service in
the East. Then came the usual packing of baggage, and
creditors — Jews, Moors, and Gentiles — flying round the
barracks with pieces of paper in their hands, looking for
what was not easily found then ; but the first tap of the
big drum will pay the debts.

The evening before embarkation, our company was en-
tertained at a supper, by the grenadiers of the 39th
regiment, whom we had often met and done duty with in
the same garrison, and a friendly feeling had sprung up
between the ofiicers and men of both companies, the
captains and officers were present to see the men enjoy
themselves. After the cloth was removed, the president
proposed a toast to the Queen, which was drunk with a
heartj'^ good will, and three cheers for Uer Majesty. The
captain of the 39th stood up to propose the health of their
guests. " Brother officers and soldiers," said he, looking
down the two rows of faces, on each side of the long
table, with a cheerful smile, " in the name of the grenadier
company, which I have the honour to command, allow me

tiX.-

THE NIQHT BEFORE WE PARTED.

223

to extend to you, our brother comrades in arms, the right
hand of fellowship and a hearty welcome. I think as
this garrison, which has been so jolly, and is about to be
broken up by the gallant 17th ' Koyal Bengal Tigers,'
going to join the army in the Ciimea, I must say that we
heartily regret it has not come to our turn to share the
honours of our comrades in a brush with the Moscovites ;
but we hope, ere many days, we will have the gratiftlft-
tion of joining you in the East, and there share the glories
of the British army in fighting for our Queen and country,
and leading such men as I now see before me at this hos-
pitable board, against our common enemy the Rassians.
We tender to you frankly the hand of military comrades,
and instead of firing a feu-de-joie of compliments, it is
the duty of those who remain behind to drink the health
of those who are proceeding on active service in the East,
A bumper then boys and let us say, good health and God
speed the gallant * Tigers'." With three times three the
glasses were drained, whilst the band struck up " The
British Grenadiers."

Captain John Croker was then called on to respond.
" Brother officers and soldiers of the 39th Regiment," re-
plied he, "this cordial reception and courtesy on your part,
demand our warmest acknowledgments, which I, in the
name of my company, have the honour to convey to you
on this auspicious occasion. I therefore propose a health
towards the grenadier company of the 39th Regiment,
with whom we are about to part, — * charge your glasses ; "
and the toast was drunk with all honours, to the appropri-

■; jfc;

224

A SORROWFUL 1 iRTIKQ

Singing,

ate tune of " Auld Lang S3nie/' the company
" They are Jolly Good Fellows."

The morning of our departure, the regiment paraded on
the square of the Casement Barracks for the last time and
having heen called to attention by Col. McPhei-son, C.B.,
he gave the word of command, " quick march," when the
men stepped off, preceded by the bands of the other
regiments, through the main street of the town, playing
' The Girl I Left Behind Me," followed by a motley crowd
of friends, sweet-hearts, and curious spectators, as we
marched to the New Mole, where the steamship Tamar
was lying alongside the warf, waiting to carry the 17th
Regiment, two batteries of royal artillery, and two com-
panies of sappers and miners, to the seat of war in the Cri-
mea. The parting with our wives and children was a very
affecting and trying sight, officers and soldiers taking their
last farewell (some of them, perhaps, forever), of those near-
est and dearest to them, whom they were now leaving be-
hind'on that barren rock; many hundreds of miles away
from friends or relatives, and not sure whether we would
ever return again to our beloved families. I had left a
wife and three children, one of them only sixteen days
old, trusting in God and fearing no danger. But our
Queen and country require us to meet the Russian des-
pot in mortal combat, and defend the honour and glory of
that old flag that " braved a thousand years, the battle
and the breeze," therefore, we must sever all family ties
though hard to give up our feelings, when our Queen and
country call us to the front. Let it not be supposed that

( ■ N ' \

"OFF TO THE WAR AGAIN.*

226

the officers are wanting in sympathy towards the privite
soldier ; very superficial has been the observer, who can
believe that the officer and the private possess little in
common with each other, or who can persuade himselE
that the private soldier is only a machine, moved only by
the command of his superiors. Should such a casuist
exist, let him remember that men are men, whether the
scarlet on their backs is of the purest or coarsest texture ;
and that, if the a ivantage of birth, and the refinement of
superior educatioi \ have done nothing for the officer, the
private soldier wh > makes a good use of such talent as he
may have received occupies a higher position, be his ever
80 humble. There were some private soldiers in the regi-
ment who, at the parting moment, felt as deeply the
separation from wife- and children, as the more aristocratic
members of the same profession ; nor were incidents of a
romantic interest wanting, though the tearful young girl
who saw with anguish her true lover's departure was only
dressed in calico.

Doubtless in theso latter days, when England has sent
forth so many of her sons to fight for the honour of her
flag, there are few who have not seen something of the
display of the varied emotions which such departures call
forth ; it will therefore be unnecessary to say that when
the sad phase of parting had come, it was visible in the
tearful eyes and blanched cheeks of many in the crowd.
The loud and enthusiastic cheers which greeted the 17th
Regiment as it passed down the steps and througli the
gate of the drawbridge leading to the wharf where th«

22G

ON BOARD TUE " TAMAll."

ship lay, showing the chivalrous emotions of the stern
British soldiers who lined the ramparts along the docks,
with crowds of people whose hearts beat with sympathy
as the regiment embarked.

At eleven o'clock, all being ready, the captain gave the
word, and the steamer moved out slowly from the wharf,
the band playing, in slow time, " Auld Lang Syne,*' amid
cheer after cheer, and handkerchiefs waving from the peo-
ple, and returned by the red-coats who assembled on
deck to wave their last farewell and wipe away the tears
which were fast falling down their cheeks as they gazed
on their little ones left behind on the wharf. As th«
Bteamer rounded the new mole her speed increased, and
the music also changed time ; at length Europa Point,
with its barracks and batteries, was turned, and the re-
verse side of the rock, still more bold and barren, with
" O'Hara's Old Tower," rearing its lofty, weather-beaten,
ruined spire, on the highest summit of Windmill Hill.
Favoured by a beautiful sunny day and a westerly breeze,
the Tamar swept rapidly past the gigantic sentinel
whose watch-word is the roar of the signal-gnn on the
eummit of the telegraph station ; and when the evening
sun was gilding the snow-topped mountains of Africa
with a streak of gold, the good ship had proceeded many
miles to the eastward, and though the mountains of Africa
reared their bright summits above the horizon, the " Old
Rock " was no longer to be seen. Then our attention was
directed to the white-capped mountains on the south
9oast of Spain, and when these faded from view, timo

^'-m

A MEBRY TIME.

297

was spent looking out for Africa's capes or sun-burned
islands, After tea the men assembled on deck, indulging
in all sorts of games to pass the time. A comic soldier,
dressed up like a baboon, grinned and jumped around
the decks, up the masts, and went through all the per-
formances of a monkey, causing roars of laughter from
all around. After this dancing was introduced. As sev-
eral of the men being musicians, had brought their fid-
dles, we were at no loss for music. At the other side of
the ship a group were singing comic songs. In this way
the evening was passed until the bugle sounded at nine
o'clock, when we turned in to our hammocks. We had
much better accommodations than we had in the old
Cornwall^ although we have had three times the number
on board.

Next morning decks were washed by the watch at four
o'clock ; at ten a. m. commanding officer's parade, when
the men looked in excellent spirits. Now came in view
something to call their attention — ^a grampus had blown
a shower of water in the air fifty feet high ; the men all
rushed to sec what it was ; several gave their opinions as
to what caused the eruption of the water ; some thought
it was a volcano that broke out, some said it was an in-
fernal machine the Russians had placed there to destroy
our shipping, and many various opinions were brought
forward to explain the cause of the wonderful blow. A
sailor, however, came along and told us that it was a
grampus. Now we see plenty of flying-fish, whole shoals
of the glittering little things glide along in the air, skizp-*

"^1

I -i. '^^

v.;

^28

A MEDITEBRANEAN SUNSET.

ming the top of the waves ; they rise to escape their pur-
suers, the bonitos, which rush after them, showiiig their
noses above the water now and then ; but the poor fly-
ing-fish have their enemies above as well as under th«
water, for they no sooner rise than they risk becoming a
prey to the ocean birds, which are always hovering about
ready to pounce on them — it is a case of " out of the fry-
ing-pan into the fire." They fly farther than I thought
they could. I saw one of them fly at least one hundred
yards; and sometimes they fly on deck, some fifteen feot
from the surface of the water.

The weather was all that could be wished for, and our
splendid snip made rapid progress through the water.
The sea was almost a dead calm, hardly a ripple on the
face of the deep ; an occasional whale was seen blowing
in the distance, and many grampuses came rolling and
blowing about the ship. One thing that struck me most
was the magnificence of the Mediterranean sunset ; the
clouds assume all sorts of fantastic shapes and appeared
more solid and clearly defined than I have ever seen them
before ; toward evening they abound in colours — purple,
pink, red and yellow, alternately — while the sky near
the setting sun seems of a beautiful green, gradually
melting into the blue sky above; the great clouds on
the horizon look like mountains tipped wth gold and
fiery red. One of these stmsets was a" delightful sight ;
the sun went down into the sea between two enormous
clouds, the only ones to be seen, and they blazed with
brilliant colours which were constantly changing, until

'V,

ARRIVAL AT MALTA.

229

the clouds stood out in dark relief against the still, deli-
cately-tinted sky. I got up frequently to see the sun rise,
but it is not near so beautiful as at setting.

After sundown the officers chctee out a few of the best
talent among the men, who assembled on the quarter-deck
and sang &ome excellent glees, comic and sentimental
eoiigs with great applause. At nine o'clock the bugle
sounded the last post, when we all turned in and slept
woll« the ship running as steadily as if she were in a canal.

Next morning after parade the officers amused them-
selves with their revolvers, shooting at porpoises, wh^ch
came in shoals close to the ship. After dinner the band
played on the quarter-deck, to the delight of all onboard,
more especially the ship's officers and sailors. The wea-
ther was beautiful and the sea like a mirror.

At seven next morning, the sailor on the lookout on
the mast-head cried out, " land, ho ! " when all eyes were
strained lookihg for the desired object, but none could
see it for some time afterwards ; at last we saw it in the
distance, like a dark cloud lying on the waters. As we
neared the land it appeared to us a rocky, barren-looking
island — Malta. Yet the cultivated strips here and there
were so green and flourishing they presented a most beau-
tiful and charming appearance.

Those who had not before visited the place were struck
with the imposing appearance of this remarkable city.
Tier upon tier of batteries upon all sides showed bristling
rows of guns, daring intruders to enter the harbour with
hostile intentions. To the right the principal part of tb^

I i

230

TEIUlAnRMA.

city was to be seen, terrace above terrace, domes and
spires towering above the houses, all looming darkly
against the sky. The air was sultry, and the reflection
of buildings, rocks and shipping in the almost still water,
was only agitated by the little boats which were moving
about in all directions. The harbour was cirowded with
shipping, and as we moved into our moorings we were
cheered by the sailors and soldiers on board the men-of-
war in the harbour, as well as from the batteries on either
side. We had a splended passage of nine hundreil and
eighty miles in four days.

• .)

»-'J

CHAPTER XIIL

't.

MALTESE — DRFARTUBB — A CAPTAIN COMMITS SUIOIDB— THB riKMRkl
— 8MALL-P0Z — RETURir — RESUMED THB VOYAOB— OBEUIAN ABOHK!^
— DABDANELLBS— OALLIPOLI —TURKISH SBNTBIBS — OOKSTANTIKO-
PLB — TUBKISH LADIES — THB BU8PH0BUS — VOTAOB AOBOSS THB
lUXINE — ARRIVAL.

fOON after our arrival in the harbour, a coal barge
came along side, and about fifty Maltese commenced
to coal our ship ; they carried the coal on their heads in
round wicker baskets ; passed each other on the gangway,
after depositing their load in the ship's bunker. The
coaling lasted about two hours, during which time the
officers and men were amused by divers who came along
in little boats ; a boy managed the boat, while the diver
was left free to exercise his strange employment. His
dress consisted of a light pair of drawers, short at both
ends, and a loose skirt. Bringing his little craft alongside,
where we were looking over the railing, and divesting
himself of his upper garments, he commenced in a sup-
plicating tone of broken English : " sixpence, me dive for
sixpence, me get him quick ; me get him sure." Some of
the officers tossed a sixpence into the water where it was
very deep, supposin<^ he was going to the bottom for it

.■m

28t

TOWN OP VALETTA.

but experience taught him an easier mode of catching it
Watching it with the eye of a hawk he saw it strike the
water, and, poising himself, he sprung head first in the
sea ; the water was so clear we could follow him with our
eyea. Down he went like an arrow, outstripping the six-
pence in the race for the bottom ; before it had sunk
twelve feet he had his hands under it in the form of a
bowl, the shining piece dropping into his hands ; he then
clapped it between his teeth, rose to the surface, climbed
into his boat and exhibited the prize with the air of a
conqueror. This was repeated several times, and with im-
erring certainty he caught the prize every time. He then
asked for sdme one to throw a sixpence the other side of
the ship, which was done, when he sprang under the ship
and brought it up in his teeth on the other side. The
Maltese had finished coaling at twelve, when our steamer
moved slowly from her buoy ; dense masses of people
lined the batteries, and yet larger crowds of soldiers in the
forts St. Angelo and St. Elmo, cheered as our steamer
moved along, the cheers from the forts being taken up by
the troops on board, as well as the sailors and marines in
the harbour, and joyously responded to by our troops who
assembled on the deck to give our last hurrah for the
East. The town of Valetta with its strong forts, batter-
ies, terraces, domes and houses grew smaller by degrees as
the gallant Tamar ploughed her onward course through
the blue waters of the Mediterranean, the island looking
like a little blue cloud in the distance, gradually fading
fkwav. We have the trackless expanse around "US ; in the

SUICIDE ON BOAIID.

distance Mount Etna looms up in the North-west. The
ship was making rapid progress through the waters — the
captain says, " if this breeze lasts, we will reach Constan-
tinople on the 8th," but our expectations were frustrated ;
•* man proposes, but God disposes," which we found to be
true ; for on Saturday, at eight a.ra., a very melancholy oc-
currence happened which threw a deep gloom over all the
troops on board ; the captain commanding the detachment
Royal Artillery had cut his throat in his cabin ; no person
could ever find out what was the cause which led him to
commit this dreadful act.

How deeply touching is a burial at sea ! replete with
reflection, stiikiag and sublime, as should always be the
spectacle of a funeral, — the tree falling as it must rise
again, with no leaves nor flowers of repentance or prayer,
or oflice to alter its final doom, ever to bloom again on
that cut down stem, — far more deeply does the service
and the sights and the sounds of a funeral on the ocean
always move one. The clouds had cleared, and it was in-
tensely hot ; the funeral took place at two o'clock ; we saw
the body sewed up in a hammock with a round shot at its
feet, and borne by the men of his battery from the cabin
and laid upon the deck. We had no clergyman on board,
therefore the painful duty of reading the service devolved
upon the captain of the ship, which could not have been
performed by a clergyman. As he began to read, not a
sound, not a breath broke the solemn silence ; nothing but
the noise of the rolling swells against the smooth side of
the ship as I stood close to the gangway while the service

• •. .

h/(

234

A BURIAL i ! SEA.

[' ,

was read, in deep thought, and gazing on the bright and
glorious shining sea, now ncariy calm, looking so intensely
sunny and blue ; it seemed to some a mocking at the king
of terrors, whose victim was about to be committed to its
keeping. To me it looked like the gemmed and crystal
gate of that heaven through which the Son of Qod had
promised the faithful Christian who believes and trusts in
Him to wing his happy way, there to learn many a mar-
vel that he had striven on earth to trace and explore.

Earnestly and solemnly he read, and when he uttered
the last words, the sailors raised the body to the edge of
the gangway and let it slide, feet foremost, into the sea,
" and so weicommit his body to the deep." You who think
it a solemn thing to hear the bell of some country church
at home echoing through the rich woods or flowery val-
leys, telling of the death of some one who will never
return home again, cannot form any idea of the awe
which strikes into the heart at sea. I do not think there
were many dry eyes among the officers and men of his
battery, as they saw the body splash into the deep sea,
and sink straight down, with the heavy round shot at his
feet. After this painful event the doctor reported two cases
of small-pox, which had broken out among the troops,
and immediately the captain and officers held a council
to know what course they would pursue. It was decided
to return to Malta, and put the sick men into hospital
there, and prevent taking the infectious disease out to the
Crimea amongst the troops. The ship was headed for Malta,
where we arrived at six p.m., next day; as we entered

WS RITUBN TO MALTA.

235

the harbour unexpectedly, from one of the upper forts, at
the end of the harbour, there came a flash, followed by
a loud report, which was echoed back and forward
against the rocks and buildings, till the roaring sound
at last died away, and the wreath of white smoke clearly
ascended into the sky. It was the evening gun, which
is fired at sundown. After handing over the two patients
to the proper authorities we again steamed out of harbour.
There were crowds of people again assembled along the
batteries to witness the departure of our noble ship,
with the living cargo of red coats on board, of course
wondering what caused our return. As we got out to sea
a breeze sprung tip on our larboard quarter, when all
sails were set, and soon the island faded again away into
the distance, and once more our ship was going through
the water at fifteen knots, under the infiuence of wind and
steam ; next day at six p. m., we had run 240 miles in 24
hours. Sunday, at ten a.m., parade for divine service,
which was read by the captain of the ship ; at sundown
the wind wheeled round right in our teeth, which obliged
us to take in all sail. The men were paraded at ten a. m.,
next day, and between various duties, and the sharp appe-
tites brought on by the sea air, we managed to get over
the time very pleasantly. The band played on the quarter
deck in the afternoons, when the weather permitted ; to-
wards evening the wind veered round on our starboard
bow, and the boatswain piped all hands to make sail, but
we were doomed ere long to experience a change of
weather, for the sun went down in a dear but stormy

I.)

- i
■■J

\'----

: 1

236

CAPES MATAPAN AND ST. ANGELO.

sky, the wind piping, snoring, and howling through the
blocks and rigging, the waves thundering agaiilst our
starboard, the ship had to struggle with a south-easterly
gale of such fury, that it reminded me of a Levanter,
which the Mediterranean is famous for ; at daylight the
land was made, a heavy cloud-like line just perceptible.
It was the Morea, and the men rushed on deck to see the
land. As we ran up, the snow-covered mountain peaks
with cold, rocky, barren edges, and villages of white
houses dotting the declivity towards the sea, became to us
perfectly distinct.

At 8 a. m., we passed Cape Matapan ; although the old
reputation of this cape was not sustained by our destruc-
tion, still the sea showed every inclination to be trouble-
some, the wind kept rising every moment. At ten a. m.
we were passing between the Morea and Cerigo ; we had
a proof that the Greeks were nearly right about the
weather. Even bolder sailors than the ancients fear the
heavy squalls ofi those snowy headlands, which gave us
but a poor idea of sunny Greece.

The ancient Greeks always considered a voyage round
Capes Matapan and St. Angelo fraught with great dan-
ger. As we rounded the angle of the cape the wind
rushed at us with much fury ; we saw the sea rushing with
crests of white foam right on our starboard bow. Its vio-
lence was terrific, the sea was rolling in wondrous waves
towards the ship ; she behaved nobly and went over them
with the greatest ease. The gusts came down furiously
between the little islands, which we could not make out

' t

\ '

PASSING THE GREEK COAST.

237

or did not know the names. The men bore up' weU
against this furious storm, although they were all sea-sick,
but never absent when the grog bugle sounded at twelve
o'clock.

The night came on us and the ship labouring on,
dashing the sea into white spray in the darkness. At
daylight next morning the sight was most discouraging,
the clouds were black and low, the sea white and high,
and between them on the horizon was a mass of a broken
character so that one could not be known from the other.
We passed Milo at 9 p.m., and the gale increased ; after-
wards at ten a.m., when the wind changed one point aft,
and the ship rolled very much, the deck was inclined to
80 sharp an angle that we could only hold on by a tight
grip of the stays and ropes. The sea breaking over the
ship swept several of the horse stalls loose about the
deck, and the poor animals lay helpless against the bul-
warks. About twelve o'clock the wind went down and
the sun burst forth, sending his golden warm rays through
the clouds, when the artillerymen picked up their horses
and put everything in its place again. We passed the,
Greek coast trending away to the left, showing rugged
masses of mountains capped by snowy peaks, and occa-
sionally some good sized towns were visible on the dark
brown hill side, with several windmills along the beach.
With some exceptions, the isles of Greece rather disap-
pointed the lovers of the picturesque ; seen from the sea
they are more or less bold and barren, abounding with
■terile rocks almost entirely devoid of wood, except a

//^^

■'-\ -

.♦-.J

- Si

238

THE DARDANELLES AND THE HELLESPONT.

stunted olive tree here and there, and clothed with a kind
of reddish-brown grass. Candian mountains are perhaps
the most striking features which we encountered in our
progress through what the sailors call the " arches." As
we swept through the " Thermian Passage," accompanied
in our course by several ancient looking craft with little
white sails stretching outwards, resembling the wings of
Icarus, and others of no less ancient model, with low prow
and solitary square rigged mast. On the left lay the
Gulf of Athens, on our right rose the snowy heights of
Mount Ida, 5,400 feet above the level of the sea, to the
north the Ic^fty Lemnos. At three p.m., we passed the
castle of the Dardanelles and the Hellespont ; we were
not stopped nor fired at as in days of yore. As we pass-
ed Gallipoli, about sever p.m., we could see a collection of
red-roofed houses, with tall minarets rising up amongst
them. From the entrance of the Dardanelles to Galli-
poli the straits are very narrow, not more than a quarter
of a mile in some places. We ran along closi. to the bank
on the European side ; its breadth opposite the town of
Gallipoli is about four miles, and it expands tt^wards the
Sea of Marmora. As the ship ran along the banks we
could see large herds of goats and small black sheep
feeding on the high rocks along the edge of th^ river.
Night was closing on us and, as we passed the numerous
forts on the European side, the sentries yelled out strange

challenges and burned blue lights^ and blue lights answer-
ed from our ship in return, so that it looked to us a strange

spectacle. The lights were put out and our eyes were aa

'•SUtff;

\. '

trange
rereas

240 VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

blind as owls in daylight; but our eyes soon recovered, the
stars at last began to twinkle, and we saw a little around
tti. All night we were crossing the sea of Marmora, wi^^h
a strong current against us.

I^ext morning, after breakfast, we came in sight of
Constantinople ; at ten a.m. we passed the Seven Towera
on our left, with Seraglio point just before us ; at 10.30
we cast anchor with hundreds of other vessels at the
mouth of the Golden H6m. Steam ferry-boats of the
English kind were passing to and fro, and caiques flitted
in and out with the dexterity and swiftness of a sea-gull
As we cast anchor, a small brig coming down stream ran
foul of us on the starboard bow, snap and crash went her
bowsprit and yard, causing considerable damage to oui
bulwarks and stays ; this accident detained us two hours.
The stream runs so swiftly down the channel that vessels
frequently run foul, sometimes causing serious damage.
We notice passing backward and forwardfrom Stamboul to
Pera caiques with Turkish women wearing white clothes,
and staring at us out of two black holes in their yashmak.
At twelve o'clo'ck we weighed anchor and continued our
course through the Bosphorus. The scenery is of almost
unrivalled beauty, and the panorama of which Constan-
tinople forms the principal part, is such as is perhaps no-
where else to be seen in the world.

As we proceeded up the stream and looked back, the
view of the Marmora, as we leave it behind, is very line.
On the opposite Asiatic shore Mount Olympus, 8,800 feet
high, with its snow-crowned summit, fades away into the

THE GOLDEN HORN.

241

eet
the

blue of the heavens, while the Imperial Palace of the Se<
raglio, St. Sophia's Mosque, and others of less proportions
stud the banks in unbroken lines from the very foot of
the forts, which command the entrance up to the crown-
ing glory of the scene, where the Imperial City of Con-

▲ TURKISH LADT.

stantine, rising in many coloured terraces from the verge
of the Golden Horn, confuses the.eje with its numerous
gardens, cypresses, mosques and palaces, its masses of
foliage and red roofs surmounted by snow-white mina-
rets with golden tops. The residences of the Pashas, the
imperial palaces of the Sultan, and the retreats of opu-

■', (;

■'ryt!

v»1

:■ i

»4

h4
O

■0
P4
H

H
O

III

n*^

THE BOSPHORU&

248

.'V \

lence line these favoured shores. As the ship can along
we could see the Turks sitting cross-legged like tailors on
their verandahs, smoking away and looking as like each
other as if they were twins. The windows of these houses
were closely latticed and fastened, but here and there could
be seen a white-faced lady, with gay coloured robe, peep-
ing through the jalousies, showing that the harem was
occupied by the fair sex. These dv/ellings succeed each
other the whole length of the Bosphorus, and at placet)
such as Buyukdere they are numerous enough to form
large villages, provided with hotels, shops and lodging-
houses.

The Turks delight in sitting out on the platform over
the water while they smoke their chibouque, and the
greatest object of Turkish ambition is to enjoy the
pleasure of a residence on the banks of the Bosphorus.
These waters abound in fish, and shoals of porpoises and
dolphins disport on its surface, splashing, and playing
about with ease as they swim against its rapid stream.

I noticed the Turks never took the least notice of us
as we arrived ; so we departed in silence, and, as far as
the Turks were concerned, in solitude. The boatmen
scarcely turned their heads to look at the majestic steamer
with her deck covered with British troops, crossing the
broad, rough, and stormy seas to fight for these lazy,
indifferent Orientals, who would scarcely turn their heads
to look at us, much less give us a cheer, as we departed
from the Sultan's Sublime Porte.

As we passed the batteries which mark the opening of
the Bosphorus into the Euxine, we cheered the Turkish

V -til

'•¥

n >

244 ^ BLACK SEA WEATHEB.

sentries as we shot past them into the Black Sea, and/
soon the land was shut out. A fog, a drifting, clammy
mist, cold and rain, fell down on us like a shroud, and
as the night closed in, it damped out the stars and all the
light of heaven, and stole down yard, mast and stay ;
this was genuine Black Sea weather.

TBS 8DLTAV.

In the morning the same haze continued with drifting
cold wind ; after breakfast we commenced to sharpen our
swords and bayonets in order to have them ready to serve
out to the Russians, in a professional manner, and with as

BALAKLAVA HARBOTTR.

S45

NCi

my
md
the

little pain and torture as we possibly could ; the grind-
ing stones were furnished by the sailors ; — this occupied
the whole day. The morning dawned ; the sun, red and
stormy glared from an angry sky, over a rugged outline
of coast not more than twenty-five miles distant, and
lighted up by white-capped waves which plunged ath-
wart the ship's course. As we neared the land the cap-
tain and officers stood forward with their telescopes in
hand. Where was the desired haven? was now the
subject of conversation, not a sign of an opening was dis-
tinguished in that formidable rock, which the telescope
scanned from end to end ; but at last the captain sighted
a ruined tower upon a cliff somewhat lower than the rest
with a union-jack flying.

It was not long before the masts of a man-of-war, just
visible above the high rocks which marked the narrow
entrance into Balaklava harbour, was seen ; up went our
number, but in vain we looked for an answer. We enter-
ed the suiall, deep harbour through a very narrow passage
which was crowded with shipping. We ran up dose
alongside the ledge of a steep rock on the left side of the
harbour, in twenty fathoms of water, and made fast to
iron huuks fixed in the rock for that purpose.

v;
'^M

- ■*':■§

,.; > ■.■•,

CHAPTER XIV.

DISEMBARKATION— FIRST BIVOUAC— THE MARCH — ARRIVAL — nKBAf!«
TOPOL — THB TRENCHES — FIRST MAN WOUNDED — RETURN TO CAM*
—AN ALARM — BATTLE OF INKERMAN— LORD RAOLAN — SORTIE— .
FOBAGINO THB OLD BRIDGE — COLONEL COLE — THE SIEGE — HAU7i-
INO GUNS— THB BATTLE— BURYING THB DEAD- FISTICUFFS — TIM
DOOLAN's letter— THB WILL — THE TURKS.

EXT J day at two o'clock p. m. the regiment
disembarked in heavy - marching order, at
Balaklava, having been served out "with the followi^ig
articles of camp equipage previously, which we carried to
the front, consistrng of one circular tent complete to every
sixteen men, one camp-kettle, frying-pan, axe, hand-saw,
spade, shovel, and two bill -hooks to each mess, one blan-
ket to each man, with three days* ship rations.

The command being given, we marched, distributing the
camp equipage amongst the men of the company. The
rain poured as we waded knee deep through the mud,
making the best of our way through the heaps of forage
and stores, which lay under the rain and exposed to the
weather, without cover of any kind, all around Bala-
klava. We were obliged to halt outside the town, on
account of the heavy rain, and pitch our camp on the side
of Eadikoi Hill for the night. Before we got our tenta
pitched we got saturated with rain to our very skins. We

'i A

HARDSHIPS OF THE CAMPAIGN.

i47

on
ide

Iiatl cold comfort that night, in wet clothes and blankets,
lying on the damp ground ; everything wet except our am-
munition, which we always managed to keep dry ; — we had
not even a light in our tents. At 9 o'clock, after posting
the picket sentries around our camp, we lay down ; — this
was a good receipt for rheumatism, and it required a stron;;
constitution to bear up. At reveill6 next morning, we were
on the alert, eat some biscuits without water, alas, there
was no water near ourc;irap, and marched off. After march-
ing four miles through a slough of Balakava mud, which
it is impossible to describe, we pitched our camp on the
most favourable spot we could find, and close to a stream
of water ; having indulged in the latter beverage very
copiously, with some hard biscuits, we turned into our
tent always placing sentries around our camp. The flashes
from the guns of Sebastopol lighting up our camp, we lay
down as we did the night before, in our wet clothes, over-
coat and blanket. Our slumbers were frequently disturbed
during the night by the thundering of the guns of Sebas-
topol. At 6 a.m. we tried to make a camp-fire, and get
some hot coffee, previous to our departure, but we failed in
the attempt ; several foraging parties scoured the neigh-
bourhood searching for some wood or brambles to make '
a fire with, but could not find any ; so we drank plenty
of water from the stream, and filled our kegs with the
blessed fluid. After eating some hard biscuits, we struck
our tents and resumed our march to the front. As we
proceeded through the " slough of despond," we marched
through the French camp, when the French soldiers turned

248

VIEW OF SEBASTOFOL.

out and cheered us, their bands playing " God save the
Queen " as we passed their camp, which we responded to
in a most friendly manner. We arrived at the 4th Divi-
sion, to which we were posted, at two p.m., after wading
through slush and mud the whole way, sinking knee-deep
at every step, and were shown our camp grounds on Cath
cart's Hill, with the honour of being the front regiment
of the 4th Division.

Before we had our tents pitched, two-thirds of the regi-
ment were detailed for the trenches that night; several men
reported themselves sick, having caught severe colds from
sleeping in their wet clothes on the damp ground the two
previous nights, together with the heavy fatiguing march
from Balaklava, on, I might say, an empty stomach, for
we had nothing to eat or drink from the time we disem-
barked, except hard biscuit and cold water ; we could not
eat raw pork just then, this told on the men's constitutions ;
although their pluck was good they had to give in ; they
were sent to the hospital tent. After we had finished tent-
pitching, I was anxious to see Sebastopol and its surrpund-
ings. I went to the top of Cathcart's hill, where I had a
splendid view along the whole line of trenches from Kami-
. esch Bay to the Tehernaya River enclosing Sebastopol,
which shone white and clear in the sun. I could see a largo
Russian camp defended by earthworks on the north side
of the harbour, and large masses of Russians on parade out-
bide the camp. At sundown the covering party were pa-
raded on the brigade grounds, and, after dark, marched for
the first time to face the Moscovite, a field o£icer in charge^

. I

NIQBT SOBTIES.

240

each party with their officers. Marcliing down the Rus-
sians opened a heavy fire ; at every flash we all laid down
until the round shot passed over, in this way we dodged
them until W3 relieved the party in thd trenches ; during
the time of relieving, the enemy always opened a heavy
fire— they knew the time our relief took place. After
taking charge of the trenches, one hundred iien were told
off to build batteries in the second parallel, and cu^ adr an-
ting trenches. We were formed into gang.t, of t elve
men, each in charge of a non-commissioned officer, with
officers superintending the whole, the work havinrr b'^en
laid out by the Royal Engineers. We worked har(' un J!er
shot, shell, grape and '"canister, until twelve, when the
grog was served, each man getting a half gill of rum
which gladdened our hearts and gave fresh strength to
proceed with our work. While we were working, a man
was placed on the look-out for the flashes of the guns,
and when he saw one gave the word " down," when we
lay down in the trench ; if it was a shell, we got behind
the traverse.

The flashes from our guns and mortars gave us light to
carry on our work when the night "was dark. In the
morning we felt hungry, but had noi:^hing to eat or drink;
except biscuit and cold water, unless we eat raw pork,
which some could not do then ; a man does not know
what he can do until he is driven to it, which was shown
afterwards. The Russians kept up a steady fire during the
night from the Garden and Crow's Nest batteries, which
our batteries responded to with a powerful fire. Dur-

' '

-p

* ''1

*'al

250

THE FIKST MAN KILLED.

ing the day we tried several shots with the " Old
Brown Bess" at some working parties who were throw-
ing up earthworks, about 800 yards distant, but could
not reach them. Oh, how 1 wished to have a good Enfield
rifle then instead of the smooth bore which we were armed
with. A Russian shell burst close to us, a splinter ol
which struck one of our grenadiers, named James O'Maley,
causing a deep wound in his head, this was the first blood
shed in our regiment, his wound was dressed by the
doctor, who was in attendance at the Green Hill trench.
Being relieved by a fresh party at sun-down, we marched
to camp under the darkness of the evening. There we
indulged in bur usual meal of raw pork, biscuits, and cold
water. Several parties had been foraging for wood, or
roots, or anything to make a fire, but could get nothing ;
therefore we had to lie down in our tent, our feet to the
pole, knapsack under our head, and fully accoutred, with
our blankets around us on the wet ground, without a fire
or any warm food. We were never allowed to take off
our accoutrements at night. During the night an alarm
was given that the enemy had advanced on our trenches
in large force, when we turned out and marched down.
As we advanced on the trenches the cracking of musketry
and roaring of cannon was deafening, the flashes lighting
up the w^y as we doubled to the trenches. \Vhen we
reached the Green Hill trench the enemy had been repulsed
with great loss ; several Russians lay dead and wounded
on the field and in the trenches, our loss was compara-
tively light, four men killed and nine wounded. We then

THE BATTLE OF INKERMAN.

251

.. oil

returned to

and laid down

pe8.ce till morning,
wet and tired. At eight a.m. next morning, Lord Raglan
and his staff visited our camp, when the men turned out ;
he inspected the camp and was well pleased with the ap-
pearance of the men. After tiie usual breakfast of salt
pork and biscuit, all available men, after furnishing the
trenches, were employed in carrying round shot and shell
from the divisional dep6t to the trenches.

This was very hard work ; each man carried a round
sliot in a biscuit bag on his back, sinking deep in the
usual mud at every step ; this and dragging big guns into
position occupied the whole day. That evening, as I was
sitting in my tent, resting after the hard day's fatigue, I
was agreeably surprised by my first cousin, Pliilip Mc-
Gurn, entering my tent. He belonged to the 63rd Regi-
ment, and on hearing that I had arrived, he hastened to
see me the first chance he got off" duty. I had not seen
him before since we were stationed together in Dublin,
previous to the Crimean war, and our meeting was mutual.
He showed us a wound he had received at the battle of
Inkerman, and gave us a long and vivid account of that
battle. For my reader's edification I will transcribe,
at least, part of the story, as near the original as my
memory will suggest : " The rattling of musketry ! the
roar of big guns ! and bursting of shells ! Such was the
reveille on the 5th of November, 1854. The British troops
rushed from their tents into the murky air without, where
the men, bewildered by the fog, the darkness and the up-
roar, scarcely knew where to expect the unseen enemy.

t^i

■ '1^

i. a

': '

'f ".:

252

LORD RAOLAN TO THE FRONT.

All was surprise and confusion. Round shot flies past
with angry rush, and shells fall bursting, scattering irre-
parable ruin ; tents are knocked over and torn into frag-
ments; round shot hurling victims to the earth and bound*
ing far down among the cavalry horses, near the windmill
The orderly men in camp had just begun to struggle with
the rain in endeavouring to'light their fires for breakfast
when the outlying picquets were surprised, and forced to
retire before a superior force, contestmg, however, every
inch of ground as they fell back on the main body.
When the alarm was given that the Russians were ad-
vancing, the sad tidings of dismay which they brought
were soon a^ter verified by the unceiemonious whistling
of round shot, and the explosion of shells among the tents.
A strange murmur was heard mingled with the thundei
of guns and crackling of musketry. It swells louder
and louder, and a moving multitude of Russians suddenly
come into view crowding up dark ravines and slopes
covered with brushwood. The first British regiments
that got formed were pushed forward with a battery in
double time to the brow of the hill to check the enemy's
advancing columns from the valley ; and as the alarm
spread through the camp th brigades and divisions were
rapidly formed and marched at the double into position
by their respective commanders. They were at once met
with a tremendous fire of shell and round shot from guns,
which the enemy had previously posted on the heights
during the darkness of the night. Lord Raglan, on arrival,
though tenderly solicitous for the safety of others, was

^^"

FALL OF GjCNERAL STRANQEWAT.

253

-^v

nevertheless careless of his own, and sat erect and immov-
able on his charger, surrounded by his devoted staff, on
the top of a high mound, in the hope of getting a glimpse
through the fog of the fierce battle that was raging be-
neath, while the ground on either side was ploughed up
by round shot, shell, and other missiles of destruction. A
shell came right among the staff officers and close to
where Lord Eaglan was sitting on his charger. It ex-
ploded as it struck a horse, tearing the poor animal into
shreds and throwing the rider several paces from the
spot, fortunately without much injury except tearing his
clothes and setting them on fire ; but a splinter of the
same shell broke General Strangeway's leg, so that it
hung by a shred of skin and a piece of flesh to the bone.
The poor man never moved a muscle of his face. He was
lifted from his horse and laid on the ground while his
life blood ebbed fast, and in less than two hours he had
sunk to rest, leaving behind him a memory which will
ever be held dear to the British army.

" Fast and furious grew one of the bloodiest and fierc-
est struffwles ever witnessed since war cursed the earth.
Not only were desperate hand-to-hand encounters main-
tained on both sides, but the British were obliged to resist
with bayonet to bayonet as the enemy, again and again,
charged with incredible fury and determination. Captain
McGregor, exclaimed Lord Raglain to his aide-de-camp,
after peering through his field glass and pointing in the
direction, ' go down into that ravine where our men are
getting overpowered by reinforcements of the enemy. 1

1 1

Ki:W

254

" HUBBAH, BOYS. FOB OUB QUEEN !

¥■■ ♦

see that Sir George Cathcart has fallen, and the division
is without a leader. Tell Sir George Brown to advance
the light division to support Goldie, and then take com-
mand of the whole himself, and carry the ravine at the
point of the bayonet at all hazards.' The aide-de-camp '
having received the order saluted and dashed dow^ the
hill-side, tearing and bounding through the brushwood
heedless of the bullets that whistled past his ears, or the
•jxplosion of shells, thundering of big guns and other mis-
siles of destruction. At last he arrived at where Sir
George Cathcart had fallen, made his way to Sir George
Brown and delivered his message to that officer, whom he
found alrecidy gallantly leading the remnant of his divi-
sion against a fearful odds. After transmitting the mes-
sage the aide-de-camp was about to retire when a bullet
hit Sir George Brown and he fpill from his horse. It waa
a moment of peril, the men were without a leader, there
was no time to be lost, the Russians, with a bravery sel-
dom surpassed, and forced on by dense masses behind,
were pressing forward at the point of the bayonet and
threatened to surround and annihilate the devoted baud.
Captain McGregor, seeing the danger, galloped forward
with his sword raised above his head, and turning his
glowing face towards his resolute followers, cried out at
the top of his voice, ' Hurrah boys ! for our Queen and
country, forward my brave fellows, charge ! * With many
loud hurrahs the men obeyed him and plunged, with the
bayonet at the charge, into the moving masses of Russians
that rolled backward aud forward like the surging billows

any
the

CROSSING BAYONETS WITH THE MUSCOVITES. 255

of the ocean as they were impelled by heroic <violence<
cold steel and British pluck. A break in the fog again
favoured the commander-in-chief with a view through
his glasses of this fearful contest, the like of which, per-
haps, never took place before. * Captain Shaw,' said his
lordship to another aide-de-camp, *ride over to Sir Richard
English and tell him to send two regiments of the reserve
to the right attack where our gallant fellows are fighting
against five times their number. I see that the enemy
are trying to gain our fiank, be as quick as you can and
tell him to move at the double, but not to blow the mea*
' Yes, my lord,' replied the aide-de-camp, saluting and put-
ting spurs to his horse and bounding off as if it was a fox
that was to break cover in Clare moutains and not hordes
of savage Russians that were before him. The bullets
fell thick and fast past him, but he heeded them not.
One of the 4th Royal Irish Dragoons, named Jim Daly,
who was employed on the Commander-in-chief's staff,
heard the order given, and saw Captain Shaw, his com-
panion in many dangers, despatched, and fearful for his
safety rode up to the Field Marshal, saluting with his
sword, said :

" * Plase me lord, as I'm doin* nothin* her jes now *ud ye
be afther allowin' me to 'company Captain Shaw as we *ve
bin through many little scrimidges together afore to-day.
I'd take it as a great favour, me lord, I'd loike to be near
him should any danger befall him, so that I might carry
him away from them theavin* Roo^hans an' bury him
dacently loike a Christian, or dress his wouads as the case
night be, d'ye pursave, me lord ?

■^

■ v

256

JIM DALT, THE IRISlI DRAGOON.

** * Yes, my brave fellow,* replied his lordship, ' I see
you are ftiore solicitous for Captain Shaw's safety than
your own, you can follow the captain into danger if you
wish, as you are so brave and reckless of your own life.*

" ' Musha thin, thank your lordship,' replied Jim, as he
was about to bound off.*

" * But, stay, my man, said his lordship, ' mind, should
your troop be brought into action, you'll have to be in
your place in the ranks.*

" ' Oh ! faith never mind fur that, me lord.* replied Jim,
I'll be yer bail, bud I'll be to the fore an' in me place
quick enough av I'm required, that's af I'm not kilt in-
toirely, bud I'll keep my eye on the thaves anyhow d'ye
pursave, me lord ? '

" Yes, my brave fellow,' replied his lordship, * away you
go, then.*

"At these words, with a salute and a * thankee, me lord,*
Jim dashed off at tha top of his speed as a guardian angel
after Captain Shaw. After the latter had delivered the
order to Sir Richard English, that officer despatched the
required force, in charge of the senior colonel, who, how-
ever, somewhat confused by the fog, and not altogether
certain of his way, asked the aide-de-camp in which di-
rection they were to move ? * Follow me, colonel,' was
the gallant reply, * I will lead the way.* Off they marched
at the double, preceded by the aide-de-camp, whose cheeks
flushed with the excitement of the battle, together with
his youthful appearance and gallantry, drew forth sym-
pathy and admiration from the bronzed and weather*

.,...^,-:r:V

ALL FOR QUEfiN AKD COUNTBT.

«57

l)eaten, warlike veterans, for the brave officer wliio incit^il
them to daring deeds of valour which never perhapn bad
a parallel. Forward they bounded with the irresistibl*
impetuosity of men determined to conquer, or die in the
attempt. Stimulated by the love for Queen and Country,
and animated by the bravery of the officer who led the
way, through dingle and dell, through brushwood, brakes,
briars and thorny brambles, tearing their scanty and
threadbare nether garments into shreds, irritating the
noble fellows to utter interjections, that would shock some
of our latter-day saints. However, they rushed forward
heedless of the bullets, round shot and splinters of shells
which whizzed past and athwart their path. But as fast as
a man fell the ranks closed in, and thus the brave fellows
rushed proudly and fearlessly on. At last they arrived
at the scene of carnage and slaughter, somewhat dimin-
ished in numbers. Here they found their comrades over-
powered by the enemy ; but their courage never flinched.
Re-animated by Captain McGregor's bravery, though their
numbers were fast decreasing, they still held their ground
against a phalanx of Russians. When the reinforcements
arrived, led by Captain Shaw, then arose a hurrah heard
above the din of battle, followed by an impetuous charge,
and with force irresistible rolled back the living waves
of Russians that roared and howled with bloodthirsty
vengeance. Words in the vernacular fail to describe with
vividness the sanguinary hand-to-hand struggles and
series of the most dreadful daring deeds of valour, devo-
tion and fidelity of the British soldiers on that memorabls

\»^fe

, , ; ri

j^l

268 "JUST AS THEY FELL IN FILES THEY LAY."

occasion. The Russians advanced mass after miass, aa
fast as a column was broken and repulsed another quickly
took its place. No wonder that at times the British were
compelled to fall back ; but they rallied every time, and
came to the charge against thousands who came on where
thousands had come before, to fall by hundreds, and be
piled up in ghastly mounds, victims of the bullet or sharp
deadly steel. While this charge was going on the Guards
on the extreme right (led by their right royal commander,
Prince George), were advancing with a steadiness, strength
of purpose and noble bearing, as becometh Her Majesty's
household troops (though fearfully diminished in num-
bers), now Hashed foi'ward at the paa-de-charge with a
loud British cheer, on a small battery which had been
previously captured by the Russians, and with such ter-
rific force and velocity irresistible did they hurl those
Muscovites through the embrasures and over the escarp-
ment of the battery, accompanied with a loud cheer that
struck terror into the advancing columns of the enemy,
causing them to pause instinctively ere they encountered
such salamanders. The pause, however, was but momen-
tary; with redoubled exertions the Russians once more
advanced (rallied by their oflScers), with deafening vol-
leys, dealing death and destruction among the already
painfully thinned British ranks, and for a short time the
fate of the day trembled in the balance. The prospect
was at once sublime though fearful to behold. The thin
red British line resisting with the bayonet the pressure
of the evei-powering enemy, with oft repeated frantic

THE THIN RED Lnn."

250

thrust The crash of bursting shells, the vindicjtive rush
of round shot, the whiz and whistle of bullets and other
messengers of death, moans, shouts, screams, yells, sobs
and roars of pain filled up the brimming horrors of that
scene of butchery, blood, carnage and slaughter. As a
gallant ship battles with the mighty billows of the ocean,
so the slim British line gallantly resists the overwhelm-
ing masses of the Russians.

" Let the red, thin wall of heroic defenders waver or
break — who shall prophesy the result ? Don't mention
it, dear reader, for it would bo a terrible disaster to the
British army. Fate seemed about to blot a bright page
of British history and chronicle a defeat. But no I with
a superhuman effort a terrific charge and a loud hurrah
from that red line of heroes, the Muscovites waver to and
fro, break and fly in confusion and disorder before the.
indomitable bravery of British pluck and cold steel.
When our old supremacy, so rudely assailed, was triumph-
antly asserted, and the phalanx of that potent despot, the
Czar of all the Russias, gave way before the brave de-
fenders of that proud banner of Great Britain which once
more flaunts in victory's van. At this gallant feat a grand
burst of applause resounded from the spectators, and the
French advance was heralded by the flourish of their
trumpets above the din of battle. When the Zouaves, led
by General Bosquet, rushed to the front with the light of
' battle on their bronzed features, their timely assistance
to the bloodstained and wearied British was indeed hailed
with the greatest enthusiasm. The French artillery oq*

■' i.

.■♦Ji

". .i- ,,-

■^m^if^

i*>

280

A KIQHT ATTACK.

. ;

operated with the British, and seemed to vie with each
other in hurling iron messengers of death after the dis-
oomfited hordes of Russians who were driven pell-mel]
towards the gates of Sebastopol, and history inscribed
that memorable battle on tablets more durable than mar-
ble ; and whenever the flag of Old England unfurls to
the breeze it shall reveal to the world in letters of gold
the terrible word, * Inkerman.' "

" Hurrah, hurrah I ** cried many voices, when the story
was ended, " that's an excellent account of the battle^ and
well told." We all complimented him on his ability as a
story-teller. It being near the last post he took his de-
parture. '

After tattoo roll-call, our task for that time being
.finished, we lay down with our feet towards the tent-pole,
fully accoutred — ^knapsacks under our heads, and were
soon in the arms of Morpheus, tired nature's sweet re-
storer ; our lullaby being the roar of big guns and the
crackling of musketry, as the opposing armies replied to
each other. We had not been lying down more than two
hours, enjoying a sweet sleep, when we were aroused
from our slumbers by an alarm that the Russians were
advancing on our trenches in great force.
: The alarm had scarcely spread through the camp when
our battalion was marching at the double towards the
trenches. We advanced by sections of companies along
the ravine, and afterwards wheeling to the left by files,
taking shelter under the rocks as we advanced close to
the scene of action.

i^ ■;- -^

x^Tr--'^',^'-''" *5^ v'---i,

» . '• ■ 'J

THE "BENGAL TIOEBS " DO THBIB DUTT. 261

The roar of big guns and mortars was deafening, whil«
the long continued crackling of musketr}^ along the whole
line told us plainly that a fierce battle was raging, and
that the enemy was advancing in immense force. The
prospect before us was at once sublime, though awe-inspir-
ing to behold, as the shells of the opposing armies, with
their comet-like tails described a circle in the air appa-
rently up among the stars; together with the flashes of
cannon and bursting of shells in the air and on the ground,
illuminating the scene of action for miles along the line.

We had just arrived on the nick of time, for the Rus-
sians were overpowering our poor fellows in the trenchef),
and would assuredly have captured their position only
for our timely assistance.

It was evident that the Russians, somehow or other,
became aware of the fact that a weak spot lay between
the French and English lines of sentries. This weakne&s
on our part encouraged them to hazard an attack on our
position. In front of the left attack there were some
trenches which ran down the edge of the ravine from the
harbour, which divides the town from the military bar-
racks ; the continuation of thisf ravine divides the third
division from the French attac/C. Therefore, in order to
guard this ravine, the sentries of the French and English
ought to be in communication ; but through some blun-
der of the commanders they were not so. The Russians,
therefore, well knowing this to be the case, followed the
ravine and got past our sentries, who took them to be
French, as their ofiicers answered their challenge io

/ v..

.!■; ■*•':

26S

A HAND-TO-HAND ENCOUNTEB.

French, and commanded their men in French, in order ti
throw our sentries off their guard. In this way they
succeeded in getting past our sentries on the left, then
bayoneted them and got into our trenches before they
were recognised as Russians, killing and wounding a great
many of our men, a major of the AOth among the latter,
besides taking two officers and sixteen men prisoners.
When their treachery was detected ; a hand-to-hand en-
counter ensued, our few brave fellows gallantly resisting
the overpowering masses of RuRsians, who were flocking
into our trenches like so many hounds after a fox, and
trying to unearth him, when our reinforcements arrived.
Then a terrible hand-to-hand and fierce struggle ensued
with the naked bayonet. After a sharp contest for the
mastery, the Russians were driven back from our trenches
with great loss. Several Russians were found dead on
the field, besides those who fell in the trenches where the
^ battle was fought, and many of the wounded had crawled
away among the rocks, where they died of their wounds.
After this terrible battle we returned with our wounded
to camp where we crawled into our cold, dismal, wet
tents, there we were glad to throw ourselves on the cold,
wet ground in our blood-stained clothes and accoutre-
ments to rest our weary limbs, until the orderly sergeant
aroused us from our sweet repose at daybreak to resume
our wonted day's toil of carrying shot, shell and ammu-
nition, and dragging big g ms into position in the trenches
or some other equally haid fatigue.

▲ 0HA8TLT DIBCOYBRT.

S68

I was one of a party of six who were detailed that
lame morning for a foraging reconnoissance to the valley
of the Tchemaya river in search of fire-wood. Taking
our water-keg straps around our waists and our bill-hooks
in our hands, we started off with the firm determination
of procuring some wood or die in the attempt. As we
advanced across the plateau, on reaching Inkerman
Heights, where the soldiers' hard contested battle had
been fought, we were deeply moved with a feeling of
commiseration for our fallen comrades who had fought
BO bravely, when we beheld the number and the size of
the many high mounds of earth where slept the gallant
fellows, side by side, who had perished in that memorable
battle. May the sod rest lightly over their ashes I

But, as we descended into the ravine on the other side
of the heights, what must have been our surprise when
we beheld over twenty dead Russians, stiff and stark, ly-
ing at the bottom of the ravine, in the dried up water-
course, where they had been buried in great haste after
the battle ! The little earth which they had Jjeen covered
with was washed away by the heavy rains, and there
they lay in their tattered old clothing and accoutrements
as they had fallen, presenting a most ghastly spectacle,
which we duly reported at head-quarters 'on our return
to camp. However, then, we continued our journey until
we arrived at an old bridge where we climbed up the side
of a steep hill that was covered with wood and crowned
by a I^ussian battery.

^■r^A

A NABROW ESCAPE.

' .. I

A FOBAGINO RECONNAISSANCE.

205

Here we commenced cutting wood and throjwing it
down to the bottom of the ravine where two of our party
collected it, and tied it into bundles. We were not long
in cutting as much as our straps would bold. We then
shouldered our bundles and escaped stealthily along the
edge of the ravine lest the Russians might detect us ; but
luckily for us we got away safely, although we were close
under their batteries, from which the Russians kept up a
continual fire over our heads at our men on th« opposite
heights. When we returned to our camp, the smile of
gl8<iness which suffused our comrades* features as they
greeted us on our arrival amply rewarded us for any
fatigue or danger that we underwent in securing the
wood. • -

It was soon chopped up by our comrades, while others
lit the fire and filled the camp-kettles with salt beef and
pork, and put them on the fires which were quickly im-
provised for the occasion in gipsy-like style. The smoke
from the fires attracted the attention of our 'Dfficers, who
came over and were agreeably surprised when they be-
held the fires and the well-filled camp-kettles, the lids of
which kept marking time as the steam escaped, to the
delight of the expectant hungry men who stood around.
After we had cooked a sufiicient quantity of salt junk and
pork and prepared coffee, we ^ave the officers the privi-
lege of using the fire which they thankfully accepted.
They then sent their servants to prepare some food,
which they, as well as the men, were sadly in need of.
The cooking being over, and the fat skimmed for further

IV'T'

266

A WELCOME BOT MILiL.

use, we all sat down like Turks on the ground, and en-
joyed the luxury of a hot meal, which was the "Bist since
our disembarkation at Balaklava.

Those pampered dyspeptics, who are living on the fat
of the land, but always complaining of a loss of appetite,
might well have envied those stalwart defenders of Her
Majesty's Crown and country, if they beheld with what
zest and professional skill we demolished the salt junks
of beef and pork, with all their appendages.

If that famous caricaturist, Bengough, had had the
good fortune to have seen us then, formed in square
around the hospitable tent-pole, he might have drawn a
vivid life-like picture without any caricaturing, that
would have immortalized the pages of that satirical jour-
nal, Grip, and live imperishable in the minds of its
readers.

We had scarcely lit our pipes after the enjoyment of
this luxurious meal when the orderly sergeant entered
and read for our edification the general orders which in-
formed us something like the following, viz. :

. " In consequence of the other regiments of our division
being so reduced by sickness and death, the l7th Regiment
would furnish two-thirds of its number for trench duty
every alternate evening until further orders."

In the meantime, owing to the lull in the firing of the Rus-
sian batteries on our attack, together with the favourable
state of the ground, consequent on the hard frost last night,
the whole of the regiment will turn out at once and haul
big guns down to some favourable spot near the GreenhiU

...-«. :• y

HAULING THE BIG GUNS.

267

nd en-
si since

the fat
ppetite,
of Her
bh what
t junks

had the
square
drawn a
ig, that
eal jour-
s of its

ment of
entered
hich in-

di vision
egimeut
[ch duty

the Rus-
rourable
it night,
Ind haul
reenhiU

battery, in order to be able to place them in position during
the darkness of the night.

We were also glad to learn that our brave and faithful
old friend, Colonel MePherson, C.B., who had been like a
father to the regiment since he took command of it many
years ago, had been promoted to Brigadier in our own
division, and Colonel Cole, who had just arrived in charge
of a draft of men from Malta, was to take command of
the regiment. Sir Edmund Lyc^s will also take com-
mand of the fleet, vice Admiral Dundas, who proceeds to
Constantinople for some purpose not made known then.

Accordingly the whole of the regiment off duty were
marched off to man the guns.

Notwithstanding the severity of the frost the previous
night, we had a trying fatigue in tugging and hauling
the big guns with the drag-ropes, from the dep6t to a
favourable locality in close proximity with the Greenhill
trench. But you know the old adage, " many hands
make light work." But this proverb was not verified on
this occasion, for the work was the same no matter how
many hands were employed. You may talk of a hard-
contested tug-of-war at home, in one of your rural gym-
nasium grounds where two aspiring companies contend
for a much coveted prize, and haul their level best to
gain the ascendancy, but I tell you, dear reader, that it's
only child's play compared with hauling big guns into
position through the Crimean quagmire. It was then
your qualities as a British soldier, as well as your strength
as a man, were put to the test ; when the gun-carriaga

268

" WELL DONE, MY LADS, HURRAH I '

got stuck in a deep rut. Then the sergeant in charge
would appeal to your heroic pluck, and your Nationality,
in words and phiases that he \^ell knew would warrant
the men's united strength and almost superhuman effort to
drag the gun from its miry bed, when the following com-
mands and exclamations would be almost sure to follow :
" Four men on the right, man the right wheel ; four on
the left, man the left wheel ; the remainder hang on to
the ropes. There now, boys, are ye all ready, all right
then — altogether, mind — one, two, three, away she goes,
stick to her, — well done, my lads, hurrah ! You shall all
have an extra gill of rum when we return to camp." This
encourages the men and the gun goes steadily but slowly
' along until it gets into another slough, when the same
trial of strength and perseverance is gone through, and
eventually the gun is placed on the platfc m with its
muzzle in the embrazure pointing towards the Russians,
or placed in some convenient spot, reauy for mounting on
the platform during the darkness of the night.

But for every gun which we had put into position, the
Russians were wont to put two, for they had the guns on
the spot in their own arsenal ; and besides they had more
men to spare for that purpose than we had. However,
after performing our trying fatigue, we were marched
back to camp, where we had scarcely time to resuscitate
our exhausted strength and spirits with a biscuit and
cold water (for we had nothing better except the half -gill
of rum which our worthy sergeant had wheedled out o^
the quartermaster for us), before we were rendezvoused

^mm

.>'•.',]
^"♦1

a. charge
bionality,

warrant
1 effort to
ing com-
o follow :
; four on
ng on to

all right
she goes,

shall all
ip." This
it slowly
bhe same
ugh, and

with its

l>ussians,
Inting on

|tion, the

guns on

iad more

[owever.

larched
kuscitate
luit and

lalf-gill
out of

svoused

TO TBE TRENCHES AGAIN.

269

on the grand parade for inspection by our old Brigadier
previous to marching down to the trenches after sunset.
During the inspection our spirits were much saddened by
the fact that ten men of the party were reported sick
with dysentery, brought on by cold and exposure, lying on
the wet ground in damp clothing, and want of proper food;
they were all admitted into hospital where two of them
died inside of a week and others lingered on.

The inspection having been completed, we were marched
off after the sun went down, under the command of a
field officer.

Although we advanced on the trenches very cautiously
under cover of the closing darkness, yet we were very
frequently forced to prostrate ourselves on the ground, in
order to evade the numerous round shot and shell, which
the flashes of the Russian guns warned us of, when the
missiles would pass harmlessly over us, or perchance strike
one or two men. The Russians well-knowing the time
our relief took place, invariably opened a fierce fire on
our advancing and retiring columns. After much dodg-
ing of round shot and shell, we eventually arrived at the
trenches, where we were told off into gangs,, ir charge of
officers and non-commissioned officers to build trenches,
or as covering parties as the emergency required. The
company to which I belonged had been told off for a very
dangerous duty, which was to pick earth from among the
rocks that formed the glacis of the parapet and carry it
in Maltese baskets to thicken the parapet which was
not considered shot-proof The Russians well know-

'OsMw-iSi^

270

A NARROW ESCAPE.

ti'

ing that this battery was in course of construction, pep-
pered at us the whole night without intermission with
shot and shell and musketry unmercifully. One shell
nearly put me out of mess, for it burst so near my head,
as I was filling my basket with earth, that the flash of
lurid flame like lightning scorched my hair and eye-
brows — ^knocking the sight oui. of my eyes, so that I was
,bHad as an owl at noonday, for an hour afterwards.
IiTickily for me that the shell had passed me a little be-
£0;*^ it exploded, so that the pieces of metal flew forward.
Had it burst in advance of me, I would assuredly have
bef n blown into atoms.

Sevei^al of our men were badly wounded that same
night. However, on gaining my sight once more, I again
commenced picking the earth from among the rocks, when
my pick stuck into something softer than usual. " What
is it ?" thought I to myself, as I dislodged it with a great
effort from the hole in which it lay covered up with a
little earth, and putting down my hands to feel and ascer-
tain what it was, when, to my horror, my fingers stuck
into a dea^i man's eyes, at the same time the effluvia that
assailed oiy olfactory ^rgars warned me to step back to
wheeling distance from the noxious object, which turned
out to be a dead Russian, who had been buried there
among the rocks in great haste after a battle some time
previously. This I then reported to the officer in charge
of the works who had the remains of the fallen Russian
warrior removed ai'd interred in a more becoming sepul-
chre. Ever since thikt memorable night, whenever I think

t
■t.

I .',

▲ RUUIAN SORTIE.

271

of the offensive odour which emitted from that decom-
posed carcase, I imagine that my nasal organ is still af-
fected by its exhalation. We were not sorry when the
high hour of twelve had arrived, in order that we might
retire for a short time from labour to refreshment, which
consisted of biscuit, water and a glass of rum. The latter
we thankfully received from the hands of our band ser-
geant, who had been told off, with four bandsmen, for the
purpose of catering out the needful. After somewhat ap-
peasing the gnawing worm with the hard tack and afore-
said condiments, we were alarmed at a simultaneous dis-
charge of musketry as our advanced sentries (seeing a
large column of Russians emerge from their batteries),
fired into them and fell back on our trenches where they
reported the enemy advancing in great force, which was
soon after verified by the appearance of a dark column
moving stealthily up the hill-side towards our trenches*
This news aroused us to hostile exertions and stimulated
us to give them a warm reception. In the meantime our
artillery opened a withering fire on them, while we blazed
away with musketry as they closed upon us. Notwith-
standing this seething fire which we poured on them,
they continued to advance with a persistency and reck-
lessness of life worthy of a better cause, and forced on by
dense masses behind, they rushed into our trenches. But
as they did so, we gave them the bayonet, after discharg-
ing the contents of our rifles into their faces. Then com-
menced one of the bloodiest hand-to-hand struggles ever
witnessed since war cursed the earth. Not only were

:i.

■

\ '

t72

SAWNETS STRATEOT.

desperate hand to hand encounters maintained on both
Bides, but we were obliged to resist with bayonet to bayo-
net as the enemy again and again charged with incredible
fury and determination. As we pulled the bayonet out
of one we knocked the brains out of another with the
but end of our rifles. But at last we got so jammed to-
gether that we could not shorten arms, and many of oui
men got clinched with the Russians like Roman wrestlers
struggling for the mastery.

This fierce contest continued with unabating stubborn-
ness and ferocity without much advantage gained on
either side, on account of the men being so closely jam-
med together, when a Scotch sergeant named Bill Jack-
son cries out at the top of his voice, in a much broader
Scotch dialect than I can transcribe, " Hoy lads ! hoy
lads ! " cried he, " ye maun unfix yer bayganet an' gie it
them wi' yer richt han' i' the baggie, but ye maun be sure
till stick tae yer rifle wi' yer left ban' an' be gleg after
han' till fix yer bayganet an' gie them cauld-kail-het-
again when ye get a gude chance an' a sark-fu'-o'-sair-
banes i'tae the bargain, 3^e ken."

This was a happy thought of the sergeant's. We im*
mediately took the hint — unfixed bayonets — holding
the muzzle of the rifle in the left hand, while with the
bayonet in the right, thrust it into the softest part of our
adversary's anatomy, when, with one dying yell, he re-
laxed his hold and dropped to the ground in the throes
of death, while his life blood poured out like water from
a fountain, bespattering our tattered uniform with crim-
Hon gore.

•our bugles sang truce."

273

This quick movement on our part gave us a decided
advantage over our antagonists, who perceiving their
numbers rapidly decreasing, lost courage and began to
sneak off by odd ones, until at last seeing there was
no salvation for them, they all took to their heels in a
" bee-line " towards their batteries, hotly puraued by our
men, with the bayonet at the charge. But we could not
chase them far, for the instant they gained their batteries,
the latter opened such a terrific fire upon us that we were
forced to fall back again on our trenches.

Oh ! what a heart-rending spectacle did the dawn of
morning reveal to our view, on our return to the scene of
action. There lay side by side the wounded, dead, and
dying of both armies, in all kinds of postures just as they
had fallen, with the blood oozing from their wounds, pre-
senting a sight never to be forgotten. After relieving the
wounded, poor fellows, as well as our exhausted strength
would sustain, and assisting the surgeons* to dress their
wounds they were forwarded on stretchers to the hospital
despite the fire of the enemy's guns. About ten o'clock
flags of truce were hoisted on both sides, when hostilities
were suspended pro tern, and the painful task of burying
the dead took place, which occupied two hours, and when
the last shovelful of earth had been deposited on the
grave of our fallen comrades the flags were lowered and
hostilities commenced once more with renewed vengeance^
Having been relieved as usual at sundown, we were
marched back weary, hungry, and blood-stained to our
comfortless camp under a galling fire from the Russian
batteries.

'Jitaa^\i ' <AHii i m mH' * . \MiiMn.-mm<m

■ >-

'.'•t'.l. -i'

274

OOLD COMFOBT,

As we marched to camp the rain poured down in 'French-
ing sheets, saturating our tattered and blood-dtained uni-
form through and through, so that the water ran down
our backs and legs into our boots.

On reaching our dreary tents there was cold comfort,
not a fire nor anything to cheer us.

After cleaning and oiling our arms we ate a few hard
biscuit with cold water, and were glad to lie down to rest
our weary limbs in our wet clothes on the muddy ground,
shivering with cold, not even divesting ourselves of accou-
trements, for we did not know the instant the alarm
would sound to turn out and repel the attacks of the ^
enemy.' However, he did not disturb us that night, for a
wonder. I guess ho must have been as badly in want of
sleep as ourselves. The chosen few at home who tumble
and toss restively, courting sleep on their luxurious beds
and downy pillows, might well have ^^Aed those home-
less defenders of their soil, if they knew what a sweet re-
freshing sleep we enjoyed that night without intenuption.
Next morning I was detailed for mess orderly, my duty
being to take my messmates' water-bottles down to a
ravine near the Woronzoff road, where a small stream of
water, the thickness of a ramrod, sprang from a fissure
in the rock, and there fill them with the precious fluid.
This little spring supplied the Second, Fourth, and Iiight
divisions, as well as a division of the French and Turks
with water.

As the orderlies arrived they were formed up in rear
of each other, forming a line rank entire to await their

**THE MANLT ART."

276

turn at the spring. Here frequent pugilistic enoountera
took place, especially between the French and British
soldiers, who contended fiercely for the first turn at the
spring. The Turks, not deigning to quarrel about the
water, were wont to sit on a stone at wheeling distance
from the combatants, looking on pa^'-ntly, but sullenly
waiting till the last.

On one of those occasions I was sorry to witness a bout
of fisticuffs between one of our grenadiers and a French
chasseur for the mastery over the spring. But though
the Frenchman might be brave enough with the rifle or
bayonet in his hands, he was no match for the British
soldier with his fists. The first snifter which the grena-
dier gave him the claret flew profusely from his nasal
prominence. The next was a winker that closed his right
eye. Then the Frenchman, seeing with one eye that he
had no chance at open order, closed with his antagonist,
when a tussle ensued. But the grenadier was too many
for him at close quarters as well as at arm's length, and
after a long scuffle he got the Frenchman down, and was
pasting him finely when the bystanders interfered and
rescued the Frenchman from the hands of his powerful
adversary. Though the chasseur got the worst of the
fight he showed no cowardice.

After that contest, however, the Frenchmen generally
shied off whenever they saw British soldiers going for
water, rather than engage with them in such a conflict.

After waiting two hours in the rain, sleet and snow for
my turn at the spring, I then got a chance and filled the

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WnSTM.N.Y. MSSO

(716)«72-4S03

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276

SUFFOCATED IN HIS TENT.

.-^ ?,

M •.

sixteen waterbottles, and prepared to join my comrades,
with the blessed clear water which they needed so much.
I was very sorry to learn from my comrades that a brave
Captain of the Boyal Artilleiy was found dead in his tent
that morning. It appears that he gob Kuffocated by the-
fumes of a charcoal fire which he had lit in his tent, pre-
vious to lying down to sleep thu night before.

This sad occurrence proved a lesson to other officers,
who were in the habit of lighting charcoal fires in their
tents with the door closed. The state of the roads for
the last few days, from the incessant torrents of rain and
continual traffic, presented the greatest obstacles to the
transport^ of shot and shell. All that could possibly have
been effected was to get up scanty supplies of provisions
to our camp. The cold, wet and slush in and around our
camp was truly fearful.

I was one of a covering party ne^t night in the second
parallel. The night was so very dark and cloudy that
the shells of the opposing armies, as they described circles
in the air, presented a panoramic view never to be for-
g(9tten, as they passed each other in opposite directions,
seemingly up among the stars, shedding a lurid light all
around as they exploded ; caiTying death and destruc-
tion to many a brave fellow's heart, and misery to many
a hearth and home in England, Ireland and Scotland, for
our regiment was composed of the three nationalities.

As I crouched closely beneath the traverse while one
of these dread missiles exploded a few paces below where
I took post under cover, I could see plainly, as the shell

■ 'i^ '

iC^i)'^" »,

rf>;^,-ifil*^

TIM DOOLAII'S FHILOBOPHT.

277

exploded, that it had done sore mischief wherej it fell
among the party of our men who were repairing an ei^-
brasure which had been torn to pieces by a round shut
previously. " What's the matter, Tim," said I to a man
named Doolan, who came towards me. ** Faith, Tom,"
said he, " enough is the matter." ** Who has been hurt,
Tim," said I, for I knew that some of the party must
have been wounded, for I saw the shell fall among them.
" Troth, Tom," said he, " there's more nor one- or two
hurt, an' that severely, too. There's poor Mulrooney's
leg broken above the knee. I'm afeard he won't live, and
several others, more or less torr to pieces. Sure Vm. goin
for the thievin doctor, who is always absent whenever
he's wanted. I suppose himself an' ould Jones are to-
gether as usual,under the rocks over beyant, enjoying their
pipe an' their grog as usual. But a small blame to them
for that same, sure it's a stepmother that 'ud blame them
this cowld night. Well, as I was a sayin,' I saw that same
shell comin' an' I cried ' look out,' to ould nosey Eent>
whom you know can never look straight afore him in
regard av his left eye that's always lookin' over his nose
like a fifer goin' to church. By yer lave sergeant, says I,
let that fellow pass, he's in a great hurry ! an' faith I said
to myself, * there's more where you came from — ^your not
the only child, an' I never loiked the family." By the
hokey there's Dr. Gains an' Dr. Dutton goin' down
from Greenhill ; my legs are saved the trouble of runnin,
after ould sawbones. Tare-an-ages, Tom," continued he,
** if that shell fell into ould Mother Mulholland's sheeban-

. . .I'j

»■¥

^.^\

278

CASTLEBAR POTEEN.

"v V ■

shop there'd be plenty of sneezin' on the coal-quay in the
n^ornin*. Divil a many 'ud be sorry for the ohld baggage
any way, although she gave plenty of tick to our fellows,
an* signs an it many a long score she had agin' the boys
when we left Cork. But thanks to Bill Brown, who
wiped out dacently all her scores with the first tap of the
big drum, as we marched offplayin' 'the girl I left behind
me.' But it sarved her right ; sure she never kept a da-
cent drop av spirits in her infernal pandemonium, any
way. If there was any av the measures av life more
try in' than another, it was to drink her villainous liquor
that fired the very blood in your vains, and split your
head o^en in the momin', but beastly declined to elevate
an' rejoice the heart. When I think av the contrast
atween her hypochondriac compound an* the blessed poteen
we used to get at Tim Cassedy's, av Castlebar, free av
duty, thanks to ould Tim who outwitted the gauger an*
Revenue Police, it makes my mouth wather^ God be wid
them ould times. Tom," said he, ** I know you don't
always drink your ration rum, an' maybe ye'd have a
weeney dhrop in yer canteen. My heart is yeamin' for
the taste av it, an' I'm as wake as a traneen for the want
of a dhrop."

" Didn't you get your grog from the sergeant, Tim,"
said I. ** To be sure I did," said he, " I never miss that,
anyhow, but you know that it's only a mouthful, an' only
puts a fellow in the longin' condition."

"Well, Tim," said I, handing him my canteen, *if
you're so much in need of it, take a little." ** That I

,. ■ »■■'•■

. V J'

THE OBEEN HILL TRENCH.

279

mayn't sin but 3'ou're a brick/' said he, eagerly: seizing '
the canteen and applying it to his mouth, but before he
could have satisfied his thirsty appetite with the soul-
stirring element he was cut short by another ' whistling

Dick,* coming towards us. " May the d ^1 fly away

wid them thievin' Russians," said he, handing me the can-
teen, ' they won't give a fellow time to take a dacent
drink.'"

We had scarcely time to take post under cover behind
the traverse when the shell exploded among our men,
sending legs and arms high in the air. " Double off for
the doctor, Tim," said I, " there'll be plenty of work for
the three doctors." " Be gad yer right there, Tom," said
he, starting off at the double. In a few moments he re-
turned accompanied by Dr. Gains.

Soon after four men came along, slowly bearing upon
a stretcher poor Mulrooney, whose leg had been broken
by a shell above the knee ; and three or four others who
were not so severely wounded, retiring to the Green Hill
trench, where the surgeons could perform their operations
with much more safety from the enemy's fire. " Tom,"
said Tim to myself, after this procession had passed by,
" I forgot to tell you that I rasaved a letter from home
yesterday, afore we came an duty. I want you to read
it for me in the mornin', if we can get a chance from
these infernal Rooshans." " All right, Tim," said I, " if
we can get a favourable oppoitunity I will be happy to
read it for you."

,;-j

/■ /

y »>

280

TIM RECEIVES A LBTTEB.

'■•!>-

h I

w ■ ^

Acoordingly next moming, after munching a few bis*
ouits,. and washing them down with a little told water,
which served for breakfast, Tim and I betook ourselves
to a quiet spot, behind the traverse of the parapet, whero
I read the contents of the epistle. As the reader may
wish to know its contents I will transcribe it for his edi-
' fication, as well as my memory will suggest :

" Barry-down-derrt Castle,
" County Clare, Ireland, Nov. 10th, 1854.

"To Timothy Doolan,

" afore Sebastopol.

" Dear Son, — I take up my pin in haste for feai ye*d
be kilt or wounded by thim thievin' Rooshans, afore this
letther reaches ye, the same as Terry Helferty, who wor
invaladed home an' discharged wid a wooden leg* and six
pence hapeny a day, for two years. Lord be praised. Sure
he has us all besides ourselve entoirely wid his thriUin'
stories of how he fought single-handed wid the Rooshans,
an* about stormin' citadels an' forthresses, an' now fightin'
his mighty battles over again wid the quiet neighbours
every night instead av the Booshans. Besides Jim Mc-
Manus (who wor edicated for a schoolmasther, but who,
somehow or another could niver resave a cirtificate from
the school boord for that exalted profession), reads from
the papers finely how that thim thievin' Rooshans wor
muttherin' every mother's son av our brave sogers out
there 'mong them Crim Tharters. Bud should you fall
by their murtherin' hands, afore ye rasave this letter,

V'r' '■

■J^4

L'* «..^2^;^

■"'■'■- ■.•f'"^

HH bOOLAN'S WILL.

281

■i".

ye'll find enclosed a copy a v my last wili an' testament
which purvides for all my affsprings, kith, kin an' rela-
tions, dead an' alive. Seein' that my latther end is drawin'
near, I have secured the aforesaid Jim McManus, the best
pinsman in the parish, though 'tis I that says it mesclf , to
dhraw out my will afore I depart this mortal life. May
the Lord have marcy on my sowl. Amin."
Then follows

TIM DOOLAN'S will.

" I, Timothy Doolan, of Barry-down-derry Castle, Coun-
ty Clare, Ireland, bein' sick an' wake an my legs, but av
a sound head an' a warm heart, glory be to Heaven for that
same, do make this me first an' last will an' testament on
the Ould and New Testament. First, I bequath my sowl
to God, whin it plases Him to take it. Sure no thanks to
me for that same, fur I can't help it then, an' my body to
be buried in Barry-down-derry Castle yard, where all my
kith an' kin that have gone afore me, an' them that come
after me, lie buried, pace to their ashes, an' may the
green tuif rest lightly over their bones.

" To my eldest son, Tim, now fightin' the Booshans,
God reward him, sure he was always the divil to fight,
an' could handle the kippeen at a fair or a pathem wid
any gossoon av his size from here to Balahaderreen. God
be wid the time when he used to take my part at the fairs
an' markets agin' the Hoolahan's, who thought themselves
the strongest faction in the barony. Bud faith when Tim
put his back to mine we made them stand an the grass,
an' didn't fear any ay their breed, d'ye mind. Howsome-

■ }

f*-6

282

KOBUE GEKEROSthr.

Fi.

diver that good ould time is now past an' gone. Well, as
I wor a sayin' I bequath to him the ould hoi^se an' eight
acres av land, rale ould Irish acres, not to spake av the
two acres av bog an' heather, at the death av his mother,
if she lives to survive him.

" My son Teddy, who wor kilt in the America war,
might have had his pick of the poulthry, but as he died
bravely fightin' for liberty, I'll lave them to his wife, who
died afore him.

"My daughter Mary, who married that scap^;race.
Paddy O'Regan, who ill-thrates her whenever he has the
dhrop in, could have the black bonneens, av they had sur-
vived the mashels, but as they all died, sure it can't be
helped. '

" I bequath to all mankind the fresh air from Heaven,
all the fish av the say, an' all the birds av the air, and to
Pether Raflferty, a half -gallon (I b'leive theire's left in the
jug), av rale ould poteen that I can't finish, as I'm dhrawin'
near my last breath ; for that poteen is enough to take
the wind out av Fin Machule, himself, if he dhrinks
enough av it, as I have done. May God be marciful {o
him if he dhrinks it all himself widout dividin' dacently
wid the nabours.

" No more at present from your affectionate father,

"Timothy Doolan, Sb."

P. S. — In the haste av preparin' me for the great events
av this world, as ye'r already aware, my parints must
have overlooked the necessity av tachin' me the useful

to*-.,!,, ,

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fK^'"^*'

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BAKKAB nNKEBTT's DOT.

28d

art av writin*, therefore, as I've tould ye afore,i it's not
myself that's writin' this lether, bud Jim McManus. Av
ye'r kilt by them hathens afore ye rasave this lether ye
needn't answer it at all at all. Maybe I'll be called away
meself by that time, an' then we can talk it over atune
us in pace up there, where we'll have no fightili' to do^
only plenty av the best av aitin' an' dhrinkin*. Qod be
praised.

" N. B. — Hannah Finnerty says, dead or alive, ye'r not
to forget what ye tould her at the crass-roads, about what
ye know, when ye parted. She's a dacent father an'
mother's child, an' a purty colleen to boot, wid her father's
blessin' an' a good fortune — a feather bed an' beddin' be-
sides the two mooleen cows an' the two calves she rared
herself."

During the perusal of the letter Tim paid marked at-
tention and by the time it was finished his eyes were
brimful with tears of affection for his father whor i he
never expected to see again in this world, even should lie
survive the bullets of the enemy. For, as he said himself,
something tould him that his father's end wor fast ap-
proaching. " Tom," said he to me after a few minutes of
sad reflection, *' I wish you would write an answer to that
letter for me, maybe I might do as much for you some
day if God spares me." " Well Tim," said I, " It would
afford me great pleasure to do so if I could get the time ;,
but you know that we don't get a minute to ourselves. I
want to write an answer myself to a letter which I received
from home over two weeks ago, and I can't get a chance

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284 ^ NO TOCE FOB FBATEBa

off duty to do it." " Faith 'tis trae for ye," said he, " Sure
we caii't get time to say our prayers itself, though we ex-
pect to be kilt every minute by them thavin' Rooshans.
" Tim," said I, there's corporal Hanretty (who is conval-
escent, and doing nothing but sitting in his tent or walk-
' ing about the camp for the good of his health,) will write
it for you with pleasure if you ask him." " Bud-an-agere
so he will," said he, " Why didn't I think of him afore, ^
sure he comes from the same place as myself, an' knows
all about my friends an' relations. Bud faith I b'leevo
though he is a corporal i(aelf, he isn't much av a writer
Howsomediver I will ax him any how the minut I get
back id' camp." " That's what I'd do, Tim," said I, " and
you can bring me the letter after he has written it, and I
will read it over for you before you post it." During
this confab we were crouched close under the traverse,
for the Russians had opened a reckless fire upon us of
shot, shell and musketry. Orders were therefore issued,
to keep close under cover during this seething fire, and
not expose ourselves unnecessarily, or return their fire.
Thus economising our amunition, while the enemy ex-
hausted theirs in the vain hopes of annoying our troops
and demolishing our batteries. But though they could
annoy us the whole day with shot and shell, they could
not cause the sun to stand still, as Joshua did while he
overthrew his enemy. True to the Divine mandate, the
night came at last, and threw her cloak of darkness over
this scene of devastation and ruin. When we were re-
lieved from our perilous position by the 21st Fusileers

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nrOLEMENT WSATHKB, AND NO PBOncnON. 28S

who were let in for a hard and perilous night's Work in
repairing the embrasures which suffered severely from the
enemy's fire during the day. We then marched to camp
under cover of the darkness, but drenched to the skin with
rain before we got into our tents. Then just consider to
yourself how we must have felt in our dripping uniform
and accoutrements, and what sort of protection a circular
tent can afford from the inclemency of that terrible cli-
mate, when pitched on wet muddy ground, with the sleet
and rain beating through the canvas, into which sixteen
famished, weather-beaten, weary and smoke-begrimed
men had to creep for shelter and repose, after twenty-
four hours fighting in the trenches up to their knees in
slush ; and then reflect what state we must have been in,
after a night spent in such shelter; lying down without
any change of clothing, and as close as we could stow in,
wet clothes and wet blankets covered with mud, with our
feet towards the tent-pole, and knapsacks under ouf
heads, and fully accoutred ready to jump up and fall into
ranks at the shortest notice, should we be required to re-
pel an attack of the enemy whose treacherous movements
were so uncertain, especially during the darkness of the
night.

The rain came down in torrents all that night and next
day ; and floods of muddy water were flowing through
the floors of our tents, making their way down the hill-
side.

The roads were so bad as to cut off supplies to the camp,
and we were accordingly placed on half -rations ; the

MOBTAUTT IN THE TURKISH CAMP.

r ■'■

hoFses and mules got stuck in the mud bringjng up pro-
visions from Balaklava, and there they lay and died, and
our men were dying from cold, hunger and exposure faster
than the horses, and the Turks, by all accounts received
at our camp, were dying down at Balaklhva by the dozen.
In fact hostilities were at a standstill in the trenches, the
men being too feeble to fight or work the big guns. We
had no fear of the Russians, however, for our spies had
reported them d}ring like rotten sheep, and suffeiing still
more from hunger, hardship, exposure and sickness than
we were ; but then they were more numerous and could
afford to lose twenty to our one.

Christmas and New Year's Day were past, and we had
had the most dreary, sloppy, wet, miserable and hungry
Christmas and New Year that ever came to man's lot to
suffer, or an army to contend against, or a writer to record.
Nothing but death and the enemy staring us in the face.
No rations to resuscitate our exhausted nature, save a
handful of crumbled musty biscuits. No wood, nor fire
to roast the green coffee berries, which the commissariat
served out to us instead of proper ground coffee. No
clothing except our old tattered uniform that was no pro-
tection from the continual rain, sleet and snow that foil
incessantly during the week before and after Christmas
and New Year's day. Many of our brave men were forced
to succumb and go to hospital with illness brought on by
hard work in bad weather, and exposure to wet and cold
wit aout any protection.

Mi^&;^^SMiJLd^^::k^

AL>aAJ-^\'/' 'V Js^kfl^jii^ii

THE CRIMUAK WAB.

287

THE CRIMEAN WAR.

When from Bal&kUva to the front we go,
The Ohersoneie are covered with mud and mow,
Where horse, and mule, with the Turka have ituek.
Transporting proviaiona for our Britiah piuok.

Tenta are blown down with the furious blaal.
And rain pours down immensely faat.
The shivering soldier in the trenches stood,
With hia dripping dothea to chill hia blood.

•

And the noble officer, brought up with care,
In hia wet, dismal tent, without dread or fear ;
Or a covering party, with their rifles in hand.
Marching to the trenches a meltmoholy band.

Or, when in camp, without fire or mill
To roast our coffee or to grind it, atill
The commissariat, to economise expense,
Issued green coffee ! to show their sense.

To roaat and grind aa best We could,

Tho' issuing neither mill nor wood ;

Our lines of soldiers marching rank entire;

Bearing shot and shell, too, at the Bnssiana* fire.

Or the distant Cossack over the hilla doth glow,
As winter wraps the Tchemaya Valley with snow,
Prince Menschikoff in the Great Redan he stood,
G iUg the Muscovites orders to shed our blood.

And Sir Wm. Codrington on Cathcart's hill,
Giving forth orders to his gallant men ;
Yonder the British Navy riding in the gale.
Anxiously waiting orders to apread sail.

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i^ CHAPTER XV. ^

VAKCfH 70 BALAELATA— RIETUBN— MAN OO BABBTOOTBD— SNOW FIYB
ntBT DEEP — LONG BOOTS — BABD FROST — OAYALBY DIVISION —
BUBIAL OBOUNB— KOLITART PBO0E38ION — HEN FBOZBN— I BUILD A
HI7T — OKBEN OOFFBE — WINTRY AFPSARANOB — DEAD H0B8ES — 63ri>
RBOIMENT— OARBYINO SHOT AND SHELL AND PBOYISIONS— FRSNUH
8I0K— TIM DOOLAN.

PANXJARY 6fch. I was one of a fatigue paroy of six
men who were detailed to proceed to Balaklava,
under the command of Captain J. Croker, for the purpose
of conveying to our camp some cooked pork which had
been kindly sent out to us by the people of England.
The captain, " in order to kill two birds with one stone,"
as the old adage says, borrowed a mule from the quarter-
master, for the purpose of carrying back a bag of char-
coal for his own use. On arriving at Balaklava, after
wading through seven miles of quagmire, the captain left
us on shore, shivering with cold and an empty stomach,
while he went foraging after the pork on boaitl the
steamer which lay in the hai'bour ; and after two hours*
red tape ceremony he at last got the pork landed from the
steamer. He then went and procured, at an exorbitant
price, and at his own expense, a bag of charcoal from one
qf the camp sutlers whose conscience contrasted favour-
ably with old Shylock.

■ C. .' ->'

-^;fmi-

CAPTAIN CEOKEE CAPITULATE&

289

After pfacing the charcoal on the mule's Imek we shoul-
dered the bags of pork and started off at once for our
camp. We had advanced only about three miles of the
way when we felt faint with hunger, weary and wet, the
load sinking us into the mire at every step.

As we, thus waded wearily and slowly, knee-deep
through the mud, the arorca which exhaled from the
cooked pork so assailed our olfactory organs with such a
pleasurable sensation, that it instinctively conveyed to
our gustatory palate such a sensitive desire and preter-
natural longing for to satisfy our craving appetites with a
part at least of the tempting substantial v hich we car-
ried on our backs, that we conspired among ourselves to
lay siege to the captain's conscience — his scruples of
honour, and force him to surrender to our logical entreat-
ies, and allow us to open the bags and abstract therefrom
Buch a quantity of the pork as the cravings of the inner
man suggested. Thus assailed by a sharp and decisive
fire from our artillery, the captain, being exhausted with
cold, wet, and hunger, as well as ourselves, after a feeble'
resistance, seeing his fortifications demolished by a supe-
rior force— capitulated and agreed to our terms, and the
customs of war in like cases, when we opened the bags
and took from each a four pound piece, which we divided
equally among the party. The captain not deigning pride
to interfere with the comfort of his stomach, willingly
took his share, and helped himself also. After resusci-
tating our exhausted natures with the luscious fat pork,
which stimulated us with fresh strength and courage to

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290

CS4D MILLE FAILTHA.

1" ^ >

aeoomplisli our arduous task and to help the poor mule out
6f the slough, we once more shouldered our bags and set
out to brave the storm.

Sleet, snow and rain beat in our faces all the way, and
retarded our progress to such an extent that we did not
reach our camp until twelve o'clock that night. '

That was one of the most severe fatigues that I have
ever experienced under such trying circumstances. Ilelp-
ing the mule out of the sloughs cost us much more bother-
ation and annoyance than did the load which we carried
on our backs, for the mule sunk so deep sometimes that
it took all our strength and ingenuity combined to extri-
cate the poor animal from his miry bed. On arrival at
camp the good captain moved with humanity towards
our exhaustednature kindly gave each of us a large glass
of Hennessey's brandy, from a case which he had received
from his relatives in Ireland, as a Christmas-box. This
kindness of the captain had the desired effect upon us, for
I verily believe that it was the means of warding off a
severe cold or some other of the numerous diseases to which
human nature is heir to, under such forlorn and extreme
circumstances, for we had no choice but to lie down on
the damp ground in our wet, muddy clothing. Qn march-
ing off from Balaklava we noticed that the 39th regi-
ment had just debarked, and were forming up in column
of companies preparatory to joining the camp before Se-
bastopol. They were well provided with warm doth*
ing against the severity of the winter, and looked dean
•jtid oomf ortable in their new fur caps and long boota i

M>t;-.

■, r.

BARBFOOTED IN THE TRBNCRB8.

291

while We, who had been out here so long, had not re»-
ceeived a single article of warm clothing, notwithstand-
ing our old clothing was in rags and tatters consequent
on the continual battles, sorties and night attacks
together with hauling big guns into position and car-
rying shot and shell from the dep6t to the trenches ;
even our boots were scarcely any protection, the leather
having shrunk with the continual wet, and our feet hav-
ing swelled with the incessant cold, so that some men
could not get their boots on, if they happened to take
them off during the night to ease their feet, and therefore
were obliged to go on duty barefooted, this is a fact not
to be gainsaid.

Ne^t morning, when we opened the tent door what a
panoramic scene of exquisite whiteness presented itself to
our view ; the whole of the mountains over Balaklava
and along the valley of the Tchemaya Biver, were be-
decked with a mantle of white. The snow having fallen
during the night, several feet deep, and the cold was in-
creased by the high and piercing north wind which blew
into our very marrow-bones. This weather, however,
would be far more welcome and much healthier than the
wet and stormy weather which we have had, if we were
only well clad ; but, alas, we were not properly provided
with outer garments sufficient to protect us from the
severity of a Crimean winter.

One cannot conceive greater hardship than to stand in
the trenches repelling the incessant attacks of the enemy
for twenty-four hours, then return, cramped and nearly

5fi

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292

ROBBING PETER TO PAY PAUL.

. \

fro^n to death, to our damp cheerless tent^ to find thai
there was no wood nor fire to cook any victuals, nor to
make a drink of warm coffee, which we needed so badly.
But even the lack of these necessaries were not felt near
so badly as the want of long bo»ts to protect our feet and
legs. Most of the officers had got long boots, and found them -
invaluable. Our mitts were so completely worn out and ut-
terly unserviceable, that the force of circumstances prompt-
ed me to devise a plan to provide substitutes for mine, for
as the old adage says, " Necessity is the mother of inven-
tion," I therefore, improvised a pair out of a piece of my
blankiet, which I found to answer the purpose so admir-
ably that several of my comrades wisely followed my ex-
ample, of course, it was " robbing Peter to pay Paul," It
certainly shortened my blanket considerably, but that
was of secondary consideration then. For it had been
freezing so intensely severe for several days, that we had
the greatest difficulty in protecting our extremities from
getting frost-bitten, during the hours of repose especially.
But I regret to have to record the fact that one fine fel-
low, and a brave soldier too, named Geo. Murfin, got
frozen to death in my tent during the night. The poor
fellow lay down as we all did, weaned and fatigued in
the tent, with his feet towards the pole, with knapsack
under his head as usual, and went to sleep so Roundly
that he never awoke. When the orderly corporal was
rousing the men next morning for fatigue, he was found
frozen stiff in death. We had several officers and men
^adly frost-bitten, and over one hundred men had been

fS:'

■r

SAOER FOR THE ASSAULT.

203

admitted into hospital from the trenches during the
twenty-four hours, who were seized with cramps in the
stomach and nearly frozen, for the want of warm cloth-
ing. The cavalry division had lost about fifty horses
within a few days, and it was fearful to contemplate on
the number of our brave men who would be forced to
succumb and die with cold, if such weather had continued
much longer. The commissariat horses and mules were
dying off at an alarming mte, and our famished soldiers
seemed most likely to follow, if there was not something
done to protect the army from the inclemency of the
weather, of which we were more afraid than the Russian
bullets. It was the wish of every officer and soldier in
the British camp that Lord Raglan would march the
whole army against Sebastopol, and let us take it by
storm, or die in the attempt, for we would prefer dying
in battle than to dying with cold, starvation and sick-
ness. It was the opinion of many that we would not
lose near so many men in capturing it, as we were losing
daily by sickness brought on for the want of food and
clothing. Death had been fast gathering his glorious
trophies into the sepulchral home of many a gallant fel-
low who had died in hospital from diseases brought on
by exposure to the terrible cold winter without sufficient
outer garments. To the new burial ground which had
been opened on the hill-side might be seen, daily and
hourly, passing our cantonment four soldiers slowly wend-
ing their way towards this necropolis, with the corpse of
some poor fellow sewed up in a blanket, carried on a

'■■'4
.'id"

294

flbBTINO WITHOUT MIUTABT HONOUBS.

Stretcher on their shoulders, no person accompanying the
solitary funeral, nor a relative to shed a tear Qf affection.
On reaching the cemetery they find several graves al-
ready dug by the pioneers, in anticipation of tjiefr vic-
tims. Into one of these the corpse is carefully and re-
spectfully lowered by the fatigue party, and there buried
quietly without even the ordinary military hbnours of
three rounds fired over him, or the consolation of a clergy-
man's voice to commit his body to the dust. The burials
were too numerous to pay the usual honours to our fallen
comrades, besides we had not the men to spare for that
purpose, all available for duty were employed either in
the tranches or on fatigue, carrying shot, shell, or provi-
sions to the front. Our men were perceptibly relinquish-
ing their wonted esprit de corps, consequent on the con-
tinual worry of harassing fatigues and hard work, with-
out the common necessaries of life. Their spirits were
broken down, and they marched along with a load on
their backs in solemn silence and a despairing counten-
ance, regardless of any passing object whatever, not even
looking to the right or left, but resigning themselves to
the will of God, and His messenger ** Death,*' which they
daily expected, who was closely and quickly following
bheir footsteps, not by shot, shell, or bullets from the
enemy, but by a slower and surer torture, starvation and
cold.

When I saw so many noble specimens of the British
army freezing to death in their tents with the intense
trost, I began to meditate seriously on the situation, aod

''J'-'<')i^y<H\:\>£^-' *^\\k *~

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71,'%^

I BUILP A COMFOBTABLE HUT.

295

indulged in conoocting a plan to save i^y life from the
frost at any rate if possible. I tHen connoid over
the following monologue, — ^"Tom Faughnan, are you
going to suocumb to the inclemency of this trying wea-
ther without any exertions to save yourself during the
hours of repose from being frozen to death, as many of
your comrades have been, and are now buried yonder on
the hill-side ? If you get shot by the enemy it is what
you expected when you came out here to meet the Rus-
sians in mortal combat, and is a soldier's death, — to fall
fighting the battles for the honour and glory of your
Queen and country ; but to get frozen to death while
asleep in your tent without any effort or device to save
your life, is ill-becoming the character of an Irishman,
whose propensity for self-preservation, wit and stratagem
under extreme circumstances has ever been proverbial/'
As I marched in double time round the tent-pole, to keep
my blood in circulation (which was necessary in order to
keep it from freezing, the temperature being many de-
grees below zero), I indulged in the above soliloquy.
When my imagination conceived an idea which happily
impressed itself upon my mind so firmly that I deter-
mined to carry it out, which I verily beUeve was the
means of saving myself and comrade from a premature
death, and Her Majesty the Queen from the loss of two
valuable soldiers, who were then above par. I had re-
solved to build a hut in the ground. With this intention
I secured a pick-axe and shovel (after receiving the Cap-
tain's permission), and commenced, to burrow like a fox

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BUSBdrACKIKQ UKDIB DirFICULTm.

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in the earth, in rear of my comrades' tents. I worked at
it eyery spara moment until I had a hole dug nine feet
long by six wide, and four feet deep, cutting the inside
walls straight down, and facing them with stones to the
height of two feet above the ground, which left the inside
six feet high, with a fire-place and chimney, the latter I
built two feet above the roof, that it might have a good
draught to draw off the smoke. I then induced my com-
rade. Dandy Russel (after much persuasion, for he was so
greatly disheartened with fatigue and cold that he cared
little how soon death would come and release him from
the misery which he suffered), to accompany me to an old
bridge at the Tchernaya river, where I climbed up a
steep hill with great difficulty and danger, for I was only
a few paces below a Russian battery that crowned the
heights (where we had got wood on a former occasion),
and there succeeded in cutting enough of wattles and
rafters to rouf our hut. Having filled our straps with the
best we could find, we marched back to our camp, fortu-
nately unperceived by the Russians, whom we could hear
talking above us in their battery. On our return, I
commenced to roof the hut, cutting the rafters the
proper length, and tying them together at the top with
gads made out of willows cut for that purpose. Hav-
ing secured the rafters along the top, I stretched some
smaller sticks along the sides of the roof, securing them
also, and then laid branches and brambles over all. I
then cut some sods of turf in a ravine Jiard by, and car-
ried them up the hill on my back to the hut, laid them on

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the top of the branches, covered them over ^th earth, aa^
smoothed it over with the back of the shovel as I had of-
ten seen done to a potato-pit in Ireland, for the purpose
of throwing off the rain. I finished by cutting a trench
around the hut to carry off the water, and made stone
steps going down to the door, which I fitted with a flat
stone or flag, so closely that it defied Jack Frost's best
tactics to make an entrance. So you see my Irish experi-
ence gave me confidence to erect this humble but invalii-
able den, which preserved us at night, especially when off
duty, from the severity of the weather during the remain-
der of that dreary, long, terrible cold winter. After we got
our hut finished we frequently (when off duty) went forag-
ing for wood to the old bridge, where we usually secured
enough by perseverance to keep a fire in our hut when
we required one, but run the risk of being shot by the
Russians every time, if they detected us. By those exer-
tions we contrived to keep ourselves warm and comfort-
able while our less favoured, but, shiftless comrades were
freezing to death in their thin canvas tents. Besi(}es
Dandy and I managed to get on trench duty alternately,
so as to leave one of us to look after the hut, and prepare
the meals for the other while on duty.

Having been served out with green coffee berries by
the commissariat, and having no means of roasting or
grinding it, we had accumulated a large bagful. So to
crown our previous devices, we procured the half of a
large exploded shell, and with a nine pound shot (which
were plentiful enough around the camp), we ground the

'41

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298

A NOVEL OOrFIE-MILL.

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coffee in the sbell, after roasting it carefully on a frying-
paQ. Most of our comrades threw away their green oof-
fee, with a malediction on the commissariat for. not sup-
plying means of roasting and grinding it Many wore
the visits paid Dandy and I, in our new acquisition by
officers as well as men, seeking the privilege of using our
fire to cook rations and make their coffee. Otie piercing
cold evening, as we squatted in Turkish fashion before tbe
cosey little fire, the door tightly closed, enjoying our hot
coffee and fried biscuits, which we had prepared on our
return from a heavy fatigue, carrying shot and ammuni-
tion down to the Green Hill battery, our attention was
directed to the door where some person was trying to gain
admission by shifting the flag which barred the rude en-
trance to our lowly cot, and before we had time to chal-
lenge " Who comes there," in pops the head and shoulders
of the veritable Tim Doolan, of Barry-down-derry-castle
reminiscence.

" The top o* the momin* to ye comrades," said he, very
politely, as he entered our little domicile. " The tail of
the evening would be nearer the mark Tim," said I.

" Och ! bad cess to me torunomathaun" said he, ''what
bulls I do be making sure I never open me mouth bud
I'm sure to put me foot in it any how."

" Never mind Tim," said I, " They say all great orators
and vocalists are endowe<]l with a wide embrasure.
But that's neither here, nor there, we wouldn't have
known you were an Irishman if you hadn't made a bull,
that's characteristic of our countrymen you know ; biit

^'^L/i

I- i^''?r/v

/•*H. V'!^

TDf DOOLAN ACLUK.

200

,1,,*

don't let that trouble you, idt down and take a drink of
hot eoffoe, chew some biscuits and fried pork, you seem
sadly in need of something hot as well as ourselves, it
your appearance don't belie you, for you look famished
and blood-stained."

" Musha then, me heart's thanks to ye for that same,
comrades," said he, and without noticing the last port of
my sympathetic remark, squatted down quite familiarly
near the fire beside us, and opened such a vigorous attack
on our small stock of commissary rations as to alarm us
for their safety.

"Further discourse with Tim for the time seemed
impossible, for he kept his mouth so surcharged that any
attempt at articulation was> fraught with danger to his life
by strangulation. We therefore sipped our coffee in si-
lence while Tim made a clean sweep of the good things
before him. At last, after he had taken the rough edge
off his keen appetite, and exhausted our magazine of pro-
visions by demolishing everything eatable and drinkable
within wheeling distance of his long arms, he wiped his
mouth and shifted his position away from the fire and ex-
claimed, —

" Bud-an-agers, comrades, I wor mighty hungry, that
wor the best av eatin' an* dhrinkin*, glory be to God for
that same! It's comfortable that I am now entirely,
me heart warms to both av ye fur yer kindness to me
this blessed night, may God reward yez ! Shure the worm
wor gnawin* the very life out o* me inside for somethin*
to ate, an' the cowld wor penetratin* to th^ very marrow

-fi

. Pi

-m

4 ■'.,^.,-

^ t

800

TIM'8 AOOOUNT or the 80BTII.

in me bones for the want av somethin' hot to dhrink, an'
I wor as vrake as a thraneen, bud sure Qod is'' good on land
as well as at say."

" The old adage has it Tim," said I, ' Qod is strong by
sea as well as by land." '

" Thrue for ye," said he, " that's the way I've heerd it
aff 'n sure enough."

"I am glad you look yourself once more," said I, "foi
you looked famished and weather-beaten. Now that
you feel refreshed, tell us about the sortie which you
took part in repelling last night. We have heard that
the Grenadiers and the 97th had to repel a fierce attack
of th4 enemy. We were expecting to be called out every
moment during the night, the continual roll of musketr}
was appalling, it roused the whole camp, but fortune al-
ways favours the brave they say, we were not required,
but ready should our assistance be needed. It was an
agreeable surprise to us next morning to hear that our
comrades had beaten back the enemy to their batteries
without our assistance."

** Faith we did that same, an' a small blame to us ; sure
they desarved all they got for their manners in comin' on
the top av us like thaves in the dark, bud be me sowl
they had to run back faster nar they came all that wor
left av them, for we sent many a won av them to keep
company wid ould nick down below, where they'll be
kept in plenty of hot wathor I'll warrant ye. The sarra
a word I'm spakin' bud the truth, sure enough it wor a
terrible night entoirely, bud any how we bate thv bla-

■.t.-^C-^^'^-'

THE AOOSHAKB RUM UtLM KBDSllAirKS.''

801

gardfi. Divil a purtier fightin ye ever laid yer byes on,
we made them Rooshans nin like redshanks. The
Grenadiers also bate them out av their new masked bat-
tery, which they have been buildin' the last two weeks,
an' the 97th charged afther them up to the very muzzle
of their guns, led by their gallant captain, till he wor
knocked over by a musket ball through the lungs, bless
the hearers. Bud his men avenged him so well afove
day-light that the trench wor piled up wid their dead an'
dyin', an' the field fominst our batteries wor strewed wid
their corpses. The gallant captain breathed his last
about ten o'clock this momin', an' he wor buried this af-
ternoon along-side av Sir George Cathcart, the ould an'
bould, the true an' brave, that scorned the vanities av a
pompious funeral, bud dropped like a hero that he wor>
into the cowld earth, covering his dignified face wid his
unsarviceable great coat, an' kicked coffin an' sarcophagus
to oyld nick, sarra the lie in it."

" How is it you are covered with blood, Tim," said I,
" have you been wounded ? "

" Faith then I have sure enough an' purty badly too,"
said he, divesting himself of tunic and under garments,
exposing a large liayonet wound in his side the length of
his rib.

" That's a bad stab " said I, " Why didn't you go to hos-
pital ? "

" Well," said he, ** the hospital is so crowded wid worse
cases nar mine, the docther dressed it an' convalesent me
till f iniher orthers."

- ^i

i'-y,_- y V-'\^ ' >\

, ^

302

mm's lotalty to his captaik.

" How did you get stabbed ? " said I. ^

" Well, asy, an' I'll be aftber tellin* ye. It's loik«
tbis. When the thavin Roosbans advanced into our
trencbes l&st nigbt agin' our bayonets, we wor wallapin
tbem finely wid our guns, an* slaugbterin* tbem wid our
bayonets, wben I happened to twig a big Boosban makin'
a bould tbrust at Captain O'Connor. Ob ! murtber
■heery, says I to meself , me brave captain ; so wid tbat
to save our captain I tbrew meself afore tbe tbafe an'
warded off bis bayonet, but faitb it rin into me own
side, an' luckily tbe bone af me rib saved me life, bless
the bearers.

" Bud be me sowl I brought the big Booshan down wid
me bayonet at tbe same time, divil a tbrust he'll ever
give agin, I'll be yer bail. Tbe sarra won av me felt tbe
wound much at all while me blood wor up durin' the
bate av battle, but it bled a power. Sbure Captain
O'Connor says he'll have me elevated, the sarra less, for
savin' his life. Bud faith I'm thinkin' there'll be few av
us left for promotion av things goes an as they are at
present. There's a hot time expected on the right attadc
to-night,for we saw three columns o'Booshans manoeuver-
in' opposite Inkerman on tbe north side of the Tchemaya,
an' their movements are mighty mysterious. They have
sent a large body of cavalry to the east o' the valley o'
Balaklava, an' at the same time a double column av in-
fantry moved aff towards the north, as if they wor goin*
to surround our camp an' murtber every mother's son av
us. Qod help us. Lord Baglan an' all his staff wor oq

J.-i:

■'./ ■•■■■■ , ; -';.; vA -

• 1i

•• TB[ANKEE, DANDY, ASTHORE."

303

the top o' Green Hill, atween the rocks, peelin' at; them
through their field glasses. I'll warrant ye we'll be roused
to-night to meet the thaves as usual."

" Well, Tim," said I, " trust in God and fear no danger,
but keep your powder dry, we are fighting in a good cause,
and a noble Queen, and as the Scotchman says, 'we'll
gie them could-kail-het-again and a sarkfu'-o'-sair-banes
In-till the bargain.' "

" Be me sowl we'll do that same,*' said he, " av we're not
kilt entoirely, bud we'll keep an eye an the thaves any-
how, I'll be yer bail."

" Here, Tim," said Dandy, handing him a horn of hot
rum which he had been brewing in a canteen while the
confab was going on, " 'sufficient unto the day is the evil
thereof.' It's time enough to bid the enemy a good mor-
row when we meet him. Let us drink and be merry to-
night, for to-morrow we may be dead. Perhaps you'd
have no hobjection to hoil your tongue with a taste o' this

ere

" Why thin, none in raison, avick vnachree** replied Tim,
thinning his lips with a smile, as he seized the goblet
with a " thankee, Dandy, aathore, sure the smell av it
dhraws the tears to my eyes an' makes me feel yer good-
ness all over me. The sarra the man I'd be every 'our o'
me life to refuse yer good nature. Troth a taste at the
bottom o' the horn just an inch deep 'ud be enough to re-
fresh me so it would, forby this gobletful, but it showa
Uie big heart ye have widin. God reward ye.

■^•■^M

If:;

.1,- . ■ , -, ^ _ ■:■■ . ^.i ; • •

^?«^ .^

t>"

304

TIM DOOLAN S TOAST.

** Comrades, here's to ye/' said he, as he raided the floW-
itig bumper with a cunning leer, and smacking his lips in
anticipation of the coming pleasure, " may ye never want
a dhrop when yer dhry to wet yer throat wid," so saying,
he gulped down the contents of the goblet in one draft.

" Be the lace o' me coat that's a stiff un," said he draw-
ing the sleeve of his coat across his burning lips.

" It's hot enough to frizzle the leg aff a jack-boot.
Like new milk it went down though, in a manner o'
spakin'. Maybe ye can see, comrades, how md intamals
appreciated yer goodness, fur hang the dhrop left to mois-
ten thp bottom o' the horn."

" It's plain to be seen that you have done justice to the
spirits," said I, " they may raise your spirits sufficiently
to amuse the company with a stave of a song. It's a poor
heart that never rejoices," as Dandy says, * we may be all
dead to-morrow night.' "

" Here," said Dandy, handing him another horn of hot
rum, "wet your lips with another drop before you com-
mence, one is scarcely sufficient to touch the right spot."

" Musha, thin, here's long life to both av ye, an* may
the skin av a cowcumber make a nightcap for the thavin'
Rooshan that 'ud injur' a hair av yer head," said he, as
he raised the goblet to his lips and tossed oif the contents.

" Thanks, Tim, for your good wishes towards us."

" And now for the song, we know from past experience
that you can sing well when you feel like it."

** Well, boys," said he, " I'll give ye a song that I lamed
from the recruitin' sergeant who marched us to Dublin

GABBTOWKN. 805

whin recruits, to join our regiment It's cfn^ iie con|posed

himself while an the recruitin' sarvice. He wor a great

man entoirely for poethry an* music"
" All right, that will do," sajd I, « let us have it then."
" I will, in troth," said he, " an no blame to me for that

same, in regard av yer good nature to me this blessed

night."
He then cleared his throat with a short cough, and

commenced :

AiSk — Oarryowen.

Now, young men of every grade.

Of ev'ry rank an' station, '

No longer bicker about bad thrade,

The failure in the nation.
All lamentations are in vain,

To bother yer condition ;
So then take heart an' join the Queen,

Ye'U never rue yer mission.

CHORUS.

Then rouse, my lads, declare no more
Ye'U trust Misfortune's capers,

Bud join at once the brave ould corps-
The Royal Bengal Tigers.

I expenence

Te think it hard to leave yer home,
' Friend, sweetheart, and relation ;
The world wide some years to roam

In search of a situation ;
But that which now I recommend,

Though 'tis but a recreation.

'^^I V,'

^r^<

ii&^^

^^^^

R^ ■'

li'' ,

"A FINK BONO, AND WELL SUNOr

Will ever stand yer futhful friend
In time of tribulation.

Then rouse, <fro.

How many thousands yearly sail

Across the briny ocean ;
An' brave the dangers of the ipiale

In search of vague promotion.
Their native Isle to seo no more,

They land forlorn an' dejected.
On Australia's distant i*Kore,

Homeless an' unprotitcted.
Then rouse, &e.

In the army ye'll be taught to fight,

In case of an invasion ;
And Where's the dastard coward wight.

Would shrink on that occasion ?
A course of drill an' marchin' too

Ye'll daily have to learn,
With this brief maxim then adieu,

Delay not at yer peril.

Then rouse, &o.

" Hip ! hip ! hurra ! loud applause," cried Dandy and 1,
after the song was finished. " That's a fine song, and
well sung, but the air beats anything I ever heard."

" Pass him another horn of that hot whisky — ^rum I
mean, singing is mighty dry work."

" Faith 'tis thrue fur ye Tom," said he, r^eaching hia
long arm for the proffered utensil.

" Tim," said I, after he had drained the goblet, " have
you asked Corporal Hanraty to ^lite the answer to your
father's letter, as you had intended ? "

CORFOBAL HANBATT AS A LETTER WBITEB. 307

" Bud-an-agers, shure I did, an' here it is, I had almost
forgotten it altogether," said he, taking the letter from his
breast pocket, and handing it to me.

" I want ye to read it for me, Tom, avick machree af
ye plase afore I post it."

" All right/' said I, taking the letter and reading it for
him.

" What d'ye think av the writin' ? " said he, after I had
finished reading it.

" The corporal is a mighty poor hand at constructin' a
letther, I bleeve, fur I had to tell him every blessed word
meself."

♦' The \^ritiLg is good enough," said I, " but the lan-
guage is mighty deep, and hard to be understood by the
unlearned. It will take a man of letters to construe it
into the vernacular."

" Och ! fur the mather o' that," said he, ** sure Jim
McManus, who wor educated fiir a school masther, an*
can read Latin, has a nack av his own fur makin' it out
I'll be yer bail."

" I would like to take a copy of that letter for curi-
osity sake, Tim," said I, " if you have no objection. It
certainly places Corporal EEanraty in a strong light as a
letter writer, and may live imperishable after you and I
have shuffled off this mortal coil."

" Musha thin do," said he, " wid me blessin*."

I then copied the letter into my diary. I will transcribe
the contents, with the firm hope that its perusal may
gratify the read^jr's curiosity and create a hearty laugh at
very little ezpeose.

>■'-<,
iA

, f

80S

THE ANSWEB TO TIM DOOLAN'S LETTIB.

hr^ - (

" Camp afobe Seblastbopol,
" Jany 8fch, 1855.

" Deab Dad.— I rasaved yer welcome lether afore Christ-
mas, which informed me av yer wakeness, glory be to
Qod. It's meself that's afeerd ye'U be dead an' buried
long afore ye rasave this lether, fur I can't get time to
post it from fightin' the thievan Ilooshans,bad sess to them.
Bud no mather, dead or alive its' glad ye'U be to hear that
your son Tim an' every mother's son that falls afore Se-
blastropol, after we bate the murtherin' Booshani^, 'ill be
purmoted Keepers o' the Queen's Star Chamber, Qod
bless her, the darlin'. Everything out here is at a stand-
still, wid the cowld weather, while the counthry is over
run wid Rooshans an' red coats tnurfcherin' one another.
Divil a purtier fightin' ever ye saw in yer galla days at
a fair in ould Ireland than we have out here among the
Tarthers an' hathens every day an' night widoufc any feer
or danger av the peelers, bad ses to 'em. Bud its' terrible
cowld out here. Shure I'm frozen to death while I'm
writiin* this lether in me tent on the top o' Cathcart's Hill,
wid a pin in each hand an' a gun in the other, wid Prince
Minchikoff an' the whole Rooshan army fominat me
waitin' a good chance to murther every mother's son av
us, thats af they wor able. Dad — bud ye know av ould
that two can play at that game. Whin we get a chance
to sleep afore the enemy we're always wide awake wid

■ '''j'il

OUR JOVUL FRtENB DEPARTS.

S09

one eye, open d'ye mind. Murty Glen who wor seijLt off on
a maritiam excursion acrass the sayih at the Queen's expense
to Bottany Bay, fur throwin' the sheriff an' his under
strappers down the blind well, and beatin' the three peelers,
an' takin' their guns away from 'em, 'ud be worth a pot o'
money out here. Tell Hanna Finnerty that I'll never forget
what we agreed upon at the crass-roads afther we parted.
It's not meself that's writin' this lether at all at all, bud Cor-
poml Hanraty, who wor left a poor lonely wake orphan on
his father's hands, two years afore his mother died, rest her
sowl. Oh ! murther sheery, the Rooshans are advancin
upon us an' the corporal is seized wid the gripes. So ho
more at present from

Yer affectionate son,
To Timothy Doolan, sr., Timothy Doolan, jr.

Barry-down-derry-Castle,
County Clare,
Ireland.

This closed the evening's entertainment.

All three of us being sadly in need of a night's rest, pre-
pared to retire. Tim, radiant with smiles and good na-
ture, his eyes a little bleared by the absorption of an un-
due quantity of liquid liveliness, shook both our hands
with dislocating violence, and throwing his thanks like a
shower of pearls, vanished from our snug but gloomy
domicile.

After our jovial guest had departed, we barred the door
on further intruders, and lay down side by eide, on some
empty biscuit bags near the little fire, and were soon ill

, \

it- t

K. • - y-;> '.3",,"" '"■■'.•'»

^'/

\ '• i

dio

A CRIMEAN SNOWFALL.

1^-^

the arms of Morpheus, our lullaby being the roaring of
big guns and crackling of musketry, as the Apposing ar-
mies responded to each other. Fortunately our slumbers
were not disturbed during the night by any unusual de-
monstration of the enemy. Next morning, it took our
combined efforts to open the door. The snow having fal-
len heavily during the night, and drifted to an alarming
depth around our camp, and especially around our hut,
the top of the little chimney only being visible. On at-
tempting to emerge from our hospitable little den, into
the piercing cold wind and drifting snow, to join our com-
rades, and assume our wonted duties of cairying shot,
shell dnd provisions from Balaklava to the front, we
found it a very difficult task to extricate ourselves from
the immense snow-drifts which had barricaded our door.
The scenery of our camp ground and the country around
as far as the eye could see had assumed a truly wintry as-
pect. • The lofty peaks and ridges which circumscribe the
valley of Balaklava, were covered with snow, which gave
them the appearance of great height, in the valley and
plateau, the snow was over three feet deep in some places,
and streaked by lines of men, horses, mules and Turks
carrying up munitions of war and provisions to the
camp. The number of dead horses and mules on the way-
side increased daily, every slough across the path was
marked by a dead horse or mule. Av: 'uch a state of
mortality the whole division which could only muster
about 600 hqrses would be almost extinct in less than a
month.

-■■■/--■

:S -'lii..

1'V

SICKNESS BECIHATINO THE BANKS.

dii

Having an afternoon to myself off duty, I took a stroll
through the cantonments of several regiments, in order if
possible to ascertain the condition of the troops, and col-
lect matter for my diary, where I entered every incident
worthy of notice. I first directed my steps towaixls the
camp of the 63rd regiment, to which belonged, a first
cousin of mine, named Philip McGurn, whom I was
anxious to see. Inquiring after my friend, I was informed
by the hospital sergeant that he had been severely
wounded in the thigh by a piece of shell, and was sent
with several others down to Scutari Hospital, where he
died from the effects of the wound. The regiment then,
could only muster twelve men fit for duty, the remainder
were either killed, or died from sickness brought on by
exposure, or wounded, or sick in hospital. The 46th
regiment had only about fifty men fit for duty ; the Scots
Fusileer Guards had lost since they landed in the Crimea
upwards of one thousand men, and could only muster
about three hundred men on parade ; many other regi-
ments had suffered in like proportion.

Ph I war, cruel war ; thou dost pierce the soul with un-
told sorrow, as well as thy bleeding victims with death ;
how many joyous hopes and bright prospects hast thou
blasted, and how many hearths nnd homes hast thou
made desolate ! How many kind fathers, fond mothers,
affectionate sisters and sweethearts hast thou bereaved of
the darling of their heart 1 How many young widows
hast thou left to mourn the loss of a loving husband,
whose return to the bosom of his little ones had been

^ 'I- -v^

<1,

t,^-:^.:^

^,. VM.

yi2

AN APOSTBOPHB TO WAR I

dK>

looked for with a feeling of pleasurable delight I In a
word, how much of the best and bravest blood^of England,
Ireland and Scotland, hast tnou shed in sustaining the
honour and glory of our noble Queen and country, when
it was menaced by the ungovernable will of that potent
despot, the Czar of all the Russias, and his Muscovite "
hordes. Oh 1 when shall war cease to curse the earth,

and devastate the land !

The duty of carrying provisions and ammunition from
Balaklava to the front was no le^s fatiguing and trying
on the men than fighting in the trenches. Every two
men carried a large bag of biscuits or pork, or beef, slung
from a long pole between them. They marched about
six miles in that manner, from Balaklava to the depdt ;
horses and mules could not do such severe work, Tor they
could not keep on their legs, and almost every himdred
paces along the way was marked by the carcass of one
of these animals. The French and Turks suffered equally
as much hardship as our men, and had more sickness
among them than we had. As I passed through the
French camp one day on my way foraging for wood, I
went into several of their tents, and was surprised to see
what a wretched state they were in. There lay the sick
men in their tents, dying with dysentery, diarrhcea,
scurvy and pulmonary diseases, while our sick were cared
for by our doctors in hospital. Therefore, it must not be
inferred that the French soldiers were healthy while we
were sickly. Far from it, their men were allowed to lie
sick in their tents instead of being sent to hospital,
and attended there by their doctors as oUr men had been.

MX-

■fJX;,h»i t^'jiS

: •

GREAT DKABTB OF fUKU

3t3

January thaw having set in, tho roads were resuming
their wonted sloppy state, which had increased the
difficulties of transporting provisions and munitions ol
war considerably. The cavalry divisions were getting up
sheds for their horses, and sheep-skin coats had been dis*
•tributed to some regiments. Many of our officers had
also received warm clothing and sheep-skin jackets, and
nol before they wanted them badly, but the men had
not received any, notwithstanding the large quantities
that had been sent out. Whose fault was this ? The
sick in hospital, on the hill-tops, suffered severely from
the cold weather, and the snow blew into their very
blankets. However, such supplies as we had received
proved of the greatest service and had saved many valu-
able lives. Consider what men suffered, with snow three
feet deep around the tents. The men scarcely knew
what fuel was in many regiments, they grubbed into the
earth for roots and stumps — ^broke up empty pork bar-
rels, or anything they could find that would make a fire
to cook their rations. This was enough to make the
poor worn-out, exhausted soldier despair before he had
sunk down to rest, and sigh that he could not share the
sure triumph and certain honour, and glories of the day
when our fiag should wave from the citadel of Sebastopol.
Although our patience was sorely tried, yet there was no
deep despair shown among the troops; no one for an
instant felt the slightest doubt of ultimate success. If
British courage, daring, bravery and a strong arm in the
fight, contempt of death, and love for our most gracious

> ' m

' •,

^4,

:'ry,.-'^>:..^H^'h

E.\

S14 THE HERO OF QUATRE-BRAS AND ffkVmtOO.

kov^reign lady the Queen, and our country ; if honour,
glofy, and British courage could have caj^ured Sebas-
topol, it had been ours long ago, and might have been
ours at any time ; fdr we were prepared for a mighty
and dreadful sacrifice, and not one of us for one instant
had the slightest misgivings an to the result. But let
our country at least feel that the soldiers who lay on the
muddy wet ground before Sebastopol, famished and in
rags, deserved at her hands the greenest and brightest
laurels and rewards, and we trust that she has requite< I
those gallant noble officers and men who under such a
tryinff position deserved the highest honour she could
confer upon them.

Let our country know them as the descendants of that
glorious army (led by their illustrious chief, the Duke of
Wellington) who thwarted that great and mighty Em-
peror Napoleon Buonaparte in Spain and Portugal, who
fought at Quatre-Bras, Ligny and Waterloo ; and let her
recollect that in fighting those battles against such a
powerful enemy at that time, we had to maintain a
struggle with foes, equally stubborn, barbarous and crafty;
with a terrible climate to contend against, and if they
triumphed through their bravery and British pluck over
the former, she might rest assured, as we did, that
through that herioc blood which we inherit from our
forefathers, we would triumph over the latter.

However, it seemed to us that more decisive steps
should have been taken by the authorities to intercept
Bupplies for the Russians, or to harass them more in their
attempts to convey provisions into their garrison.

^^,>.

■T^i*

SniPHEROPOL AND SEBA8T0P0L.

815

Loaded waggonn could be seen every day slowly .wend-
bg their way down the heights over the Tchemaya river
towards Sebastopol, and large columns of the enemy were
also frequently visible marching along the same route
and disappearing mysteriously into a subterranean pas-
sage leading into the citadel — presumably reinforcements
for the garrison. Therefore, there could have been no
doubt that menns of communication existed between In-
kerman and Scba.*>topol along the south bank of the es-
tuary of the Tchemaya — this should have been cut off by
a coup'de-main.

After we siezed the Woronzoff road it was thought thai
no other means of approach, except by a mountain path,
existed between Simpheropol and Sebastopol on the south
side, but later experience taught us different — sharp eyes
and field glasses detected another means of access soon
afterwards. '

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CHAPTER XVI.

M /

ntENOHBS— CANAL OP MUD — RUSSIAN NEW YBA^— HEAVY PIRE— 0«
SENTRY — THE SORTIE— OLD BROWN BESS— SORTIE — ARRIVAL IN
CAMP — NEW STYLE OP CANDLE— PLINT AND STEEL — ^MAKING OOPPEB
— HEAVY SNOW— NO FIRE — WARM CLOTHING — SHOT AND SHELL—
THE BATTLE-DESERTERS.

kANUARY 16th. It being our turn for duty a stron^j
party of the 17th Regiment were detailed, and
marched down to the trenches at sun down, to relieve
the 68th, and resume our wonted twenty-four hours* vigi-
lance and hard fighting ; but unfortunately for our com-
fort in advancing on our post we got wet through to the
skin ; a heavy thaw with drenching rain having set in,
so that the trenches became a canal of mud and slush.

After relieving our predecessors we noticed that the
Russians were very actively engaged, evidently celebra-
ting their New Year ; for flaming bright lights shone
from the windows of all the private houses and public
buildings.

They also li- watchfires and bonfires on the north side
of the harbour, and illuminated the heights over the
Tchemaya with rows of lighfe, in the form of a cross,
which shone brilliantly through the darkness of the cold

RUSSIAN NEW TEAR.

317

■4fr

damp winter's night. Our cautious sentries who layJpros-
trate pn the wet ground in front of our advanced trench^
with our muskets loaded and capped ready to fire on our
enemy, whenever an opportunity offered, kept a watchful
eye on every embrasure in front of us, and not a move-
ment of the enemy within their fortress escaped our ob-
servation. We fancied that the Russians in Sebastopol
were endeavouring to annoy us by their gay demonstra-
tions. J

However, about the high hour of twelve, all the church
bells in the city ushered in their New Year by pealing
forth simultaneously their joyous harmony. It was then
evident to us that ^h«y were performing a solemn reli-
gious ceremony. Amid the glare of wax torches and the
pomp of gorgeous ritual, and with chant and hymn —
heard only by the demon of war, their Greek priests ex-
cites to frenzy the Russian soldiers, whom they harangued
and inspired with fanatical enthusiasm to sally forth like
semi-savages and attack our unsuspecting famished sol-
diers in their trenches with the blinded hope and super-
stitious zeal of driving us infidels from before the im-
pregnable walls of their christian city. We were, there-
fore, all warned to be pn the alert, and well-prepared to
meet the enemy should he venture an attack on our po-
sition, and all our advanced posts were strengthened ac-
cordingly.

Our anticipations, however, were soon afterwards veri-
fied, for when the Russians emerged from their churches
about one o'clock in the morning, they gave three united.

»->1

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318

FIERCE CANNONADIKO.

lusty patriotic cheers, which was plainly born^ by fche night
breeze to the ears of our artillery and blue jackets,, who
responded by opening a vigorous fire on them, as did also
the French on our right and left, when the Russians in
return opened one of the fiercest cannonades along their
whole position, that we had ever hearc^ before; their
batteries fairly vomited forth floods of flame, which burst
through the smoke as lightning through a thunder-doud.
The flashes of big guns and mortars, and the bursting of
shells, illuminated the whole city with a vivid brightness,
so that we could see distinctly the houses and buildings,
and their batteries crowded with soldiers. The roaring
of round shot, the whistling and bursting of shells, filled
up the intervals between the volleys of musketry. The
round shot passed over our trenches rapidly, ploughing
up the ground into furrows as they passed us by, or, strik-
ing into our parapet with a thud. Our gunners were
forced to seek shelter closely under cover of their
batteries, and could barely reply to the volleys of round
shot, which tore up the parapet, knocking sand-bags,
gabions and fascines about the men's heads, and fre-
quently knocking some of them off*. Nevertheless, we
always laid our guns correctly, sending the destructive
missiles into the enemy's embrasure with such vengeance
that many of their batteries were dismantled and their
guns silenced

While this terrible cannonade was going on, a strong
body of the enemy, under cover of their guns, had been
pushed up the hill -side towards our works in front, on

\Mi->,

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A NIGHT SORTIE.

319

the flank of the left attack. I bein^ on6 of the advanced
sentries, was the first to detect the Russians emerging
from their batteries.

" Look out George," said I, to the sentry on my right,
" Can't you see a dark column of Russians creeping up
the hill?"

" Well," said he, " I thought I saw something dark mov-
ing slowly between me and the light, but, I can now see
a column of Russians plainly enough, they are moving
along under cover of the brow of the hilL"

" You are right, George," said I, " It's a column of Rus-
sians sure enough, pass the word along to the other sen-
tries, but, tell them not to fire, until they come within a
sure range of this useless old Brown Bess, that we can't
be sure of at that distance, let us make every bullet tell
any hbw. I wish we were armed with the Enfield Rifle,
instead of this useless old blunderbuss."

" All right, Tom," said he, and then passed the word,
which ran along the line of sentries like a flash of light-
ning.

We had not long to wait, for the enemy advanced ra-
pidly within range of our muskets. When the whole
chain of sentries simultaneously fired a volley into th«
advancing foe like one man, as they closed upon us, and
then retreated back into our trenches, where we gave the
alarm to the covering party, whereupon the field officer
in charge despatched messengers to the other parallels for
reinforcements, which arrived in good time to assist us in
driving the Russians from our trenches.

^^^*t'■'T?

320

RUSSIANS REPULSED.

tl •

In the mean time, the enemy persistently advanced
I'apidly on our trenches, notwithstanding that we kept
blazing away at them with musketry as hard as evez
we could load and pull a trigger the while, and stand-
ing against them on the escarpment of the parapet, with
our bayonets at the charge.

Nevertheless, they forced into our trenches against oui
bayonets, in large numbers, despite our best efforts to re-
pel them, when a desperate hand-to-hand struggle for the
mastery ensued. We got so completely jammed together
in the trench that we were obliged to resort once more to
Sergeant Jackson's contrivance ^. e., to unfix bayonets
and gie it them in the baggie with right hand, retaining
a hold of the muzzle of our rifle with the left. Our offi-
cers fought bravely, and inspired the men by their ex-
ample, in cutting down the Russians with every stroke
of their sword. One officer (Lieut. Williams), in severing
the thick skull of a hard-headed Muscovite, broke his
Bword at the guard. This accident nearly 4iost him his
life, for a powerfully-built Russ, seeing him disarmed,
made a malicious thrust at him with his bayonet, but
luckily one of our men anticipating him guarded it off,
and by a sharp turn of the wrist, drove his own bayo-
net through the softest part of the ruffian's anatomy
thereby saving the noble officer from being placed hor9
de combat

. This narrow escape from a premature death so stimu-
lated the officer with almost superhuman prowess that he
quickly picked up a musket which he clubbed, s^nd floored

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AN BNCOUNTEB IN THE QRAVETABD.

d2i

every Bussian within wheeling distance of his inighty
wapenschaw. I can assure you, gentle reader, that We
all fought as becometh British soldiers, though the o<lds
against us were ten to one. When the enemy saw what
salamanders they had to contend with, and so many of
their comrades falling, they began to sneak off by odd
ones ; but when they espied our reinforcements advancing
to our assistance, they made a precipitate exit out of our
trench, and ran off as fast as their cowardly legs could
carry them towards their outworks, closely pursued by us
up to their very batteries, and engaging with them again
in the grave-yard where we had a very hard fight amongst
the graves. Here we closed around and dislodged them
from behind the tombstones, where they took refuge, cut-
ting off three of their party whom we marched back
prisoners, besides all the wounded we picked up on the
field and in our trenches. In this affair two of our offi-
cers and eighteen men were wounded and. six i^en killed.
The Russians had over eighty men killed and wounded.
The French had also to resist a strong sortie at the same
time, and succeeded in driving the enemy from their works
with great loss. In the pursuit they got inside the Russian
advanced batteries, where they had a desperate hand-to-
hand fight, and by great valour succeeded in cutting their
way clear of the enemy — ^returning victorious to their
own trenches. " After a storm there comes a calm," as
the old adage says, wh^ch was verified on this occasiom
for next morning all was quiet enough except an odd
shot exchanged as a rsTninder. Havinjj been relieved

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322

" WHILE there's life THERE's HOPS.*

K- -

that evening by the 21st Fusileers, we were niiarched back
to camp completely exhausted with hunger, wet, cold,
and bloodstained with hard fighting. Our tattered cloth-
ing being saturated with mud and slush, became more of
a burden than a comfort to us, it having thawed during
the night, and then turned round to freeze as we retired
from the trenches, stiffening our torn uniform and adorn-
ing us with icicles, the noise of which, as we marched
along, reminded us of the ancient Roman warriors in their
coats of mail. When I had reached my hut Dandy was
there shivering with cold — without ft fire.

" What's the matter, Dandy," said I, in a voice sugges-
tive of no pleasurable delight, when I beheld the empty
fireplace.

" Well, Tom," said he, rousing from his lethargy, and
wiping his eyes, " we were turned out in the night to re-
inforce you fellows in the trenches, and I have been away
all day carrying shot and shell from the depdt, so that
there was no person left to look after our hut, and several
of the men, finding us both away, has been and gone and
used up all our wood to cook their own rations."

" That's a terrible catastrophe, Dandy," said I, " what's
to be done, for I'm sadly in need of something hot ? "

* I don't know, Tom," said he, " for I myself am very
weak and too exhausted with cold, hunger, and fatigue,
to do anything, except to die."

" Tut 1 man alive," said I, " never give up ; while tbere'a
life there's^hopes, we ought to be thankful to have escaped
last night's fighting with a whole skin, while ao many o(
our Qonorades were laid low." *

'^ECESStTT, THE MOTHER OF INTENTION."

323

" Ah I" said he, they are hetter off than we are, 'there's
an end to their sufiering in this wicked world anywise.
For my part I would much sooner have heen killed than
to suffer such persecution, or prolong this miserable exis-
tence." -

" Well, Dandy, you and I differ very much, for I want
to live as long as I can, life is sweet ; can't you think of
no ways, means or contrivance by which we can create a
fire?"

"None, whatever/' said he, "I have been puzzling my
brains on that all-absorbing subject before you cam ; in,
and was forced to let it die a natural death, and give it
up, altogether in despair."

While the above dialogue was carried on, my own
inventive faculty was absorbed in ruminating on some
device for securing a canteen of hot coffee, which we
both needed very much. At last, after much reflection,
a happy thought struck me ; for as the old proverb says,
'* necessity is the mother of invention."

What did I do ? I know you will laugh when I tell
you, but never mind, a good laugh without much expense
is better than doctor's medicine. I tore a strip off the
aether end of my shii't, set it in an empty blacking-tin
with some pork fat« -^hich served as oil, then lit the strip
of calico by means of a flint and steel (which I had always
carried in my pack, our matches being too damp to ignite,
besides they were very scarce), set my canteen over the
blaze, with a little water in it at first) making the ooffe«
when the water boiled, then adding more water. After

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3!24

BANDY &BVIVED.

making a sufficient quantity of coffee to sat^isfy our ex-
hausted nature, we fried some biscuits in pork-fat over
the blaze, after soaking them well first in water. We
, then sat down in Turkish fashion, with sharp hunger for
a relisher, and indulged our keen appetites with a plenti-
ful supply of this coarse, but hospitable fare. This new
device proved very useful afterwards, not only to Dandy
and myself, but to the officers and men, to whom we im-
parted our new contrivance. You can scarcely conceive
how quickly water will boil over a blaze of this kind.

" How do you feel now. Dandy," said I, after we had
stowed away, in a professional manner, all the coffee and
biscuits that we had prepared.

" I feel like a new man, thank God," said he, "and now
I hope to live and fight another day, but, I verily believe
only for your ingenuity and God's help I would have
been a dead man long ago."

"That shows you plainly," said I, "that you should
never despair, but trust in Providence, ' God tempers the
wind to the shorn lamb.' "
/ ** If that be true," said he, " I wish there v/ere a fe^
shorn lambs out here, they might be the means of molli-
fying the piercing cold, frosty wind that blows into our
^ very marrow bones."

" We should patiently and humbly resign ourselves to
God's will," said I, "His ways are unsearchable to us sin-
ful mortals, whom He has created out of nothing. We
know from the inspired records of His divine word that
He frequently tries the faithfulness and patience of His

-" /

^'w^

▲ job's comfobteb.

825

best servants with painful afflictions. Take for example
His faithful servant Job, who bore the sore afflictions
with which God had encompassed him with the patience
and resignation of a martyr."

" Yes," said he, " Job had great patience, 'tis true, but
he never had to fight and wade in human blood to
satisfy the tyranny and ambition of a despotic monarch
like the Czar of all the Russias, or suffer the inclemency
of a Crimean winter in rags, as we have to do."

" True, we have to wade in human blood," said I, ** in
order to repress the dogmatical insolence of that potent
despot, but has not God commanded us to be subject to
the higher powers, especially in defending our country
from the ravages of an avaricious enemy."

" This world is God's footstool, and whatever is done in
it is His dodng. So long as He permits wars to be in the
world so long are soldiers His instruments, and doers of
His will, while they fight their country's battles, and
while they learn the drill and discipline which make
them good and efficient instruments to do this will of
God in the very best way."

" I believe you have mistaken your calling, Tom," said
he with a smile. " You should have been a preacher."

" If I have itself," said I, "it matters not, for life is short,'
and if I do God's will cheerfully, my duty as a soldier,
and have faith in Christ, I am as sure of salvation as any
of His ministers."

" Well, in the name of God let us lie down and have a
good night's sleep, for we are fatigued and in much need
of rest"

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S26

A GENERAL BOMBARDMENT.

" So be it," said I, " the enemy will not disturb us to-
night, I imagine, for it seems too cold for him to ventui*e
an attack on our position."

We then lay down together, fully accoutred, on the
floor, and were soon in the arms of Morpheus, tired
nature's sweet restorer. Our anticipations were verified,
for we enjoyed a refreshing sleep the whole night, without
intermission or disturbance of any kind.

In the morning our door was blockaded with snow,
which had fallen and drifted during the night, to the depth
of three or four feet in some places.

Having been detailed for fatigue the previous night,
we hastened to join our part} who were about to march
off to the commissariat dep6t for provisions. On arrival
there we noticed that the preparations for a general bom-
bardment wei'e progressing rapidly ; for upwards of
seventy siege guns and thirteen inch mortars were all
ready up at the dep6t, and if the frost and snow con-
tinued, would be in position in the batteries in a short
time. But though the frost enabled us to haul heavy
ordnance into position, it had other bad effects, for seve*
ral men had been frozen in their tents during the night,
while others had been sent to hospital from the trenches,
severely frostbitten, and others had suffered intensely
from the bitter cold frosty wind. Yet when a path had
been once broken through the snow, men and horses
got along much more easily than when they had to
wade knee-deep through the mud. But the temperature
was very trying in the tents, particularly when we had

t-"*^
(

«?••)•■' , V

v-»

I:"

HABDSHIFS OF THE ARMT.

827

■^

no wood to make a fire. Many regiments had been served
out with fur coats, long boots, mitts, guernseys, socks,
and flannel waist>bands, but alas, none of these comforts
had reached the 17th Regiment, except the men in hospi^
tal, who had received a few articles of warm clothing.

It was a most melancholy subject for reflection to have
seen our army then. There was scarcely a regiment re-
cognisable except by its well-known camp ground. The
ofiicers could not have been distinguished from the pri-
vates unless they wore their swords.

What a harvest death had reaped, and many more wert
ripe for the sickle. It was sad to have seen the noble
officers, who h -d been brought up in the lap of luxury,
sharing the same fate as the private soldiers, who were
always accustomed to rough treatment.

Being acting orderly corporal one day, I went to warn
Lieutenant Brinkman to take charge of 400 men who
were detailed for carrying shot and shell from the depdt
to the trenchea I was sorry to And him sitting in his
tent, shivering with cold, tr}nng to cut out a pair of leg-
gings off the end of his blanket. At his request I helped
him to cut them out, when the following dialogue en-
sued :

"Faughnan," said he, "this is trying weather on us
unfortunate soldiers. It would be much more comfort^
able to be a sweep in London than an officer out here.
They may talk at home about the noble officers of the
British army, and imagine them sitting comfortably on a
camp stool in a snug tent, with warm clothing and ^oy^

^^5

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828

OUR 8INSE8 ABI BLUNTED.

geouH uniforms, partaking of the good things that the
people of England had generously sent out to her gallant
officers and soldiers ; but which none of them have yet
received, and I believe never will, if this weather lasts
much longer. I myself am nearly famished to death fur
the want of the common necessaries of life, and I fear
many of us will be forced to succumb before any relief
arrives. Our senses, too, are considerably blunted, smell,
from colds ; taste, from want of practice ; sight, from
sleeping with one eye open, and hearing, fi'om the inces-
sant roaring of big guns and mortars ; and though many
of us have escaped the bullets of the enemy, we have all
bled ill our country's cause ; for we are devoured by ver-
min of the most detestable kind, which, in former days,
we associatedwith paupers and other tribes belonging to
the unwashed ; but in this respect the officer has de-
scended from his regal eminence. When we remember
him in all the elegance of gold lace and scarlet cloth, it
would be difficult to recognise him now in the faded and
tattered object, seated like a tailor, in his miserable, cold
tent, tiying his best endeavours to manipulate a pair of
leggings out of his old blanket, and smoking a short pipe
contentedly — dreaming of home and happier days."

" And the girl I left behind me," said I, finishing the
sentence for him.

** Ah ! Faughnan," said he, " you Irishmen are always
light-hearted and happy, no matter what hardship, dan-
ger or difficulty stares you in the f.ice, and never at a loss
for a witty or humorous expression; I wish I WJ^s ^ light*
(leart^d ^nd happy as you are,"

'T «

▲ riTIGtTB PABTT, » TBUTH.

S29

** What is the use of worrying over our misfortunes,
sir/' said I, " ' sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof/
When I joined the service of my own free will and accord,
I then made up my mind to resign myself to any priva-
tions and suffering, even death itself, when called on to
do so, in defence of my Queen and country. Besides, it
ought to alleviate our suffering considerably when we
consider what honours, rewards and decorations that '11 be
conferred upon us by our gracious Queen and grateful
country, when we return triumphantly to our native land,
after surviving all these battles and privations."

Further discourse was interrupted by the Sergt. Major
calling out for the orderly Sergts. to fall in in the fatigue
party, of which I myself was one, therefore I made a
precipitate exit in order to join my comrades as they
fell in.

Plaving been inspected by a field officer, we were
marched off, wading knee deep through the snow, which
had fallen during the night to the depth of three or four
feet in some places. The frosty wind with drifting snow
blew so bitterly cold that the horses and mules refused to
face it ; but the men went plodding along in a dreary
string through the deep snow willing enough.

There was something mournful in the aspect of those
long lines of men moving slowly across the expanse of
glittering snow, each man bearing a round shot on his
back.

On our return to camp, after completing our arduous
task, we had blue noses and pale faces ; as to our uniform

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S30

THE LONO-EXPECTED SUPPUES

what would the people of England have thought if thej
beheld their gallant army ? Most of the officers were as
ragged as the men; many officers were crippled and
obliged to go on sick leave with their feet badly frost-
bitten.

Several men, who couM not get their frozen boots on
their swelled feet, were obliged to go about baifefooted, up
to their knees in snow. I

You can easily imagine how delighted those unfortu-
nate fellows must have been, when the welcome news
had reached their ears, that the quartermaster had re-
ceived among other useful necessaries for the regiment,
a go6dly supply of long boots, sheepskin jackets, warm
inside clothing, fur caps, and Enfield rifles, to supersede
the " Old Brown Bess," whose days were numbered.

Although much in need of these essentials, the convey-
ance of them to our camp from Balaklava entailed on our
men the work of commissariat mulea However, as they
were all for our own special comfort, we marched bravely
and bore the burden with a right good will.

As we advanced towards the front with loads on our backs,
like beasts of burden, we passed on the way a large cav-
alcade of sick and dying soldiers, who were sent down to
Balaklava hospital on mules and bat horses; they formed
one of the most painful looking processions that could
have been imagined. Many of those unhappy mortali
were in the last throes of death, with closed eyes, open
mouth and pale haggard features. They were borne
%lon]^ two on each mule, one on each side, in panniers.

•^

DUB ROAD 8TBEWN WitH DEAD B0B8ES. 381

One of those unfortunate creatures died on th^ way,
his corpse looked ghastly. Strapped upwards to the seat,
the legs hanging down stiff, the eyes distended — wide
open, the head and body nodding with frightful mockery
of life at every stride of the mule. As we passed the
dead man the only remarks our men made were, " there
goes another poor fellow out of pain and suffering at any
rate." The snow having been woU-packed and the road
hard, we made rapid progress* in order to arrive in camp
before nightfall. It would astonish a stranger tQ have
seen the number of dead horses and mules along the way-
side. The attitude of those skeletons— which were torn
by dogs and vultures, was truly fantastic

Some had dropped dead and were frozen stiff, while
others «eemed struggling to rise from their miry bed.
Most of those carcases had been skinned by the Turks
and French, who used the hides to cover their huts^
About five miles of the country were dotted with those
festered carcases in every stage of decay. Were it sum-
mer time, around Balaklava would have been more nox-
ious than a lazarettoi

Next morning we gave in the " Old Brown Bess,** and
received instead a new Enfield rifle. We also received a
goodly supply of warm clothing, long boots, fur caps,
sheepskin coats, and comfortable inside garments, with a
few watchcoats for the sentries. The following evening
our regiment furnished the covering party for the ad-
vanced trenches.

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FIRST TRIAL OF THE ENFIELD RIFLB.

The night was clear and dry, but piercing cold, yet we
kll' felt in excellent spirits and felt comfortable in our
long boots and fur caps. On taking up our position in
the trenches, the enemy opened a terrible storm of mus-
ketry on us, as if they suspected that we were armed
with the Enfield rifle, and were anxious for us to 'try it.
Their surmises were soon verified, for we Opened sudi
a telling fire of musketry upon them that it bewildered
them with astonishment. We could hear their confusion
within their batteries, and hear their supports advancing
to reinforce their batteries, and soon after they replied to
our fire with a vengeance. Their fire was particularly
:}lre6ted against our attack, the whole night. At break
of day, the fire on both sides burst foi-th with renewed
vigour all along our lines. There could not be less than
3,000 men engaged on each side, firing as hard as they
could pull a trigger, the air was illuminated with the
incessant flashes of big guns and musketry, and the lines
were marked by thick curling smoke as it expanded from
the ca'hnon's mouth. The firing slackened on both sides
about ten o'clock. Not a night passed without severe
rifle shooting from behind the parapets, and between the
lines. Our advanced works were pushed within one hun-
dred and fifty yards of the Russian batteries, and on the
left attack almost into the town and its subuibs, the
ruined houses of which were turned into defences for
their sharp-shooters, and the town was one formidable
stronghold, from the glacis to the ridge over the ba}', on
which the south side of the town is situated. In tho

, I -' . . -' v

'■- <?■

DESERTERS FROM THE RUSSIAN CAMP.

3S8

skirmish during the night, one Russian officer wak taken
prisoner, and several deserters came over to us. Theiy
gave a fearful account of how the Russians were suffer-
ing from cold, hunger and exposure, since we knocked
down their barracks about their ears by our heavy shot.
They showed us some uninviting hard black bread they
brought with them in their haversacks. So that it
appeared quite evident that the Russians were suffering
as much, if not more, privations than we were ; although
we had heard that large quantities of provisions and
stores werf) t,* -own into their garrison recently. When
we returnee » camp that evening. Dandy had a good
supply of hot coffee and fried biscuits ready for me.

We found our hut quite comfortable during the cold
frosty nights, besides we were getting two nights at a
time off trench duty, so that we improved the time be-
tween intervals, by endeavouring to forage aa much
wood as kept us in a fire when we required it.

Notwithstanding the clear, frosty weather, the trans-
port of provisions and other munitions of war entailed
considerable hardship on our worn out soldiers ; moreover,
the sick in hospital made little progress toward recovery,
and the number sent down to Balaklava every day is a
proof of the unsatisfactory condition of our army.

Those regiments who had been so frightfully cut up,
and lost so many men by sickness and death, had their
clothing conveyed from Balaklava by mules. •

Fi|>y. 16th. Coffee for the first time had been issued
to us roasted, this we found a great luxury compared

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^- , •* *

'V^W

334

SCARCITT OF WOBKINQ TOOL&

with how we had formerly received it, vegetables, how-
fever, were greatly needed; picks, shovels, spades and
bill-hooks were very scarce, though much required to
dear the camp, dig graves and chop wood, when we got
any, but we got none so £Eur.

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■ ■ ■■■>'.<

CHAPTER XVII.

4 MAM FBOZBN — WHI8TLIK0 DICK — REFLECTIONS — ^THBIK OWST CX>I1V
—TOOLING THEM — A FRIEND — THE FRENCH ZOUAVX — WHAT HAVE
TOU IN THE BAG ? — AN ALARM — SORTIE — THE ARMISTICE— WHITB
FLAG — EI0RLANDER8— GUARDS — ^NAVYIBS — LORD RAOLAM— DXSXRp
TEB8 — RACES — THE COSSACKS.

"tl

^jljo^EBRUART 21st. As we trudged along through the
^^ deep snow, to the trenches yesterday evening
against a very stiff, piercing, cold, frosty wind, the atmos-
phere was so completely surcharged with thick falling
snow, which drifted into immense bonks and beat unmerci-
fully into our faces and eyes with such a cutting force,
that we became as blind as owls at noon-day, and would
never have found our way, save for the flashes of guns,
and explosions of shells, which shone so brightly through
the falling snow, as sheet-lightnjng through a thunder-
storm. Many of our poor fellows who had suffered all
the horrors of a Crimean winter for the last three or four
months were so exhausted that they could not keep up
with their more robust comrades, were forced to drop be-
hind. One weakly young fellow, who had been recently
discharged from hospital, after surviving the severo at*
taoka of dyHontory, whioh reduced him to a akoletoa, m*

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336

PEBtSHED IN A SNOW-DRIFt.

tut^Uy fell do\i^n completely exhausted. The captain, a
very kind man, halted the party in order to ascertain,
what was the matter, when to his surprise he found the
man dying, but as the party were already behind time on
account of the fearful storm, he could not wait, but wrap-
ping his martial cloak around the poor fellow„telling him
to be of good heart until he'd send the guard with a
stretcher, in order to have him conveyed to hospital

Dreary road to weary toil, plodding through snqw !
Gannon's lightning flashes light us where to go,
In the trenches deep and cold, — the storm I cannot brave
To fight for British glory, here I'll make my grave I

Comrades, I am frozen, my limbs refuse to tread !
If the trench I cannot reach, the snow will be my bed.
Those whom you relieve, can call here as they go by.
These were words the soldier uttered, then lay down to die !

After relieving the party in the trenches, our captain
instructed his predecessor where to find the dyiug man,
on their way back to camp. Therefore, when they had
reached the place described, they halted and searched for
the mark, calling out the imf ortunate man's name, but,
got no answer, the snow drifts were so deep they could
not find him. At last they noticed, a little way off, a grow-
ing heap, and there they found him covered up with snow.
Strong arms raised him, and the doctor who accompanied
the party used his best endeavours to resuscitate him;
but the vital spark had fled to God who gave it. One
more brave soldier gone, without a murmur or complaint,

'% X-

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%■'■*!?' V ; yi/^'-'i^^

8EBAST0F0L.

837

where so many go for Britain's sake. They laid him
gently on the stretcher, and bore him to his last resting-
place, where so many of his comrades had been laid be-
fore him. This terrible storm raged in all its fury dur-
ing the night, but towards morning, having exhausted its
violence, calmed down, and eventually the sun burst forth
in all his glory from a clear blue frosty sky.

The day was dry and intensely cold, but our warm
clothing and long boots enabled us to survive its severity,
which would have been fatal to many, had we been as
destitute of clothing as our comrades, on whom winter had
fallen with all its rigour, when they had nothing to wear
but their old worn out uniform. The atmosphere was with-
out a cloud or film of vapour to cast the slightest shadow
onr the bright glittering surface. We, therefore, had a
splendid view of Sebastopol, and iis surroundings, de-
spite the dazzling effect of the snow. The pontoon bridge,
which crossed the harbour, from the government build-
ings, was crowded with sailors and soldiers, who were
busily employed passing supplies to the other side,
showed us plainly that their commissariat dep6t lay in
rear of the Kedan, and opposite the fire of our batteries.
Further to the right, toward Inkerman, the white houses
and barracks loomed up in the distance.

The bells of the numerous churches were ringing out.
clearly on the frosty air.

The high houses which occupied the hill-side, and the
massive public buildings, gave old Sebastopol rather an
imposing appearance. There was not a soul to be seen in

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THB "WHISTLING DlCSa*

the streets, save the long-coated soldiers, running acrosn
t^e open space, from one batteiy to the ^other, relieving
guard, or posting sentries. The town was surrounded hy
formidable earth-works, ten feet high, with embrasures,
from whicli the cannon pointed toward our trenches.

Many of the houses and small white-washed cottagei
in the suburbs had been knocked down by our shot and
shell ; but the ruins they had utilized into cover for sharp-
shooters.

During the day, the enemy tried his best to annoy us
by shelling our position from a mortar battery, toward
the sea, projecting those dread missiles into the air, ever}'
half minute or so, across a hill that intervened, so as to
disturb our working party, who were engaged in throw-
ing up a trench towards the Quarantine fort.

They kept us on the qui-vive looking out for those
whistling Dicks. First the white smoke rushes into the
air, and expands into rings, followed by the heavy, dull
report, then the shrill whistle of the shell travelling
through the air, as it describes a curve, increasing in velo-
city as it descends; sometimes sinking deep into the earth,
tearing it up by the explosion, to the destruction of those
around. To how many families they carried deep sorrow
and mourning ! When the smoke clears away, the men
gather round some poor fellow who moves not, they bear
him away on a stretcher, and a small mound of fresh
earth marks for a little time the last resting-place of the
soldier, whose wife and children, perhaps mother or sis-
ters are leflt destitute of all earthly happiness, save the

/I ■

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rOOUNO THE 8HARP8H1

830

memory and the sympathy of their grateful country.
Who will let the inmates of that desolate cottage in Eng-^
land, Ireland or Scotland know of their bereavement!
However, look out Bill, there goes another "whistling
Dick," which does nothing but knock up a cloud of
earth and stones about our earg. Many were the unplea-
sant reflections, when one of those bombs appeared high
in the air, coming towards us in a bee-line, giving notice
of its propinquity by a shrill whistle, and watching
anxiously in order to evade it by taking post under cover
behind the traverse. After the explosion, we resumed
our wonted position, and our gunners paid them back in
their own coin, by sending a thirteen inch shell or two,
into the very batteiy they sent their last one from, while
we peppered away at them with musketry wi enever they
appeared at an embrasure to load or fire a gun. Not one
of them dare venture his head above the parapet lest he'd
get a bullet through it. For our fellows were as much
on the alert for a chance shot at a Russian, as ever a
sportsman who laid in wait for his game, and many were
the allurements thrown out to draw the rascals from their
cover. For instance, one of us would place his cap on a
ramrod and hold it above the parapet ; the Russians con-
cluding that it was a man's head, invariably sent a few
bullets through it, thereby giving our men, who were on
the look-out, an opportunity of hazarding a shot at them.
This was what we called fooling them, and thus we
passed the day, until relieved at night-fall, when we
marched back to our gloomy camp under a heavy fire, af«

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840

TAE FRENCH ZOUATB.

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ie;r being relieved by the 68^h Begiment. For the enemy
wiill knew the time our .elief took place, and always ^ve
it to us pretty hot, very frequently killing or wounuing
some of our party. When we got back to camp, I found
my hut warm and comfortable. Dandy was there keep-
ing my coffee hot, with a cotton rag as usual dipped in
pork fat, as a substitute for a candle.

" Why Dandy, we're lucky, wonders 'ill never cease,
where did you get the wood ? " said I, as my eye caught
sight of a nice lot of dry wood chopped and piled up
alongside the fire place.

" Your friend, Tim Doolan and Charley Cleghom," re-
plied he, " found four empty ammunition barrels veiy for-
tunately in a magazine, and succeeded in conveying them
to this humble cot for our special benefit, in return for
our kindness on many occasions."

" Well, that's mighty fortunate," said I, " for it's a ter-
rible cold night, how thoughtful of them, and to bring it
all the way from the trenches ; we must not refuse to let
them cook coffee in future. Pile on some wood then, as
God has sent it, and let us have a fire, it's a poor heart
that never rejoices."

We then closed and barred the door tightly for the
night, and sat down before the little fire to enjoy our sup-
per in peace. We had not been long sitting, when a loud
knock on the door proclaimed an intruder.

" Who comes there ? " said I, in a loud voice.

" Von Zouave, bon comrade,", was the answer.

" Some benighted Frenchman, I suppose," said Dandy,
" let us let him in and see what he wants."

I'j*,-:,^^..

l*««

<*Oni, MONBIBUR, VABB MUCH AKaLAIS.** 341

So saying, we unbarred the door, and in popped a
French Zouave, with a haversack slung over his shoulder.

" Bon soir, comrades," said he after entering.

" What do you want ? Farlez-vous, Anglais ? " said I.

" Oui, Monsieur, vare much Anglais," replied he.

" Sit down, then, and sup with us, and state your
troubles," said I, dividing the floor for him between
Dandy and I, handing him some coffee in a canteen at
the same time.

After demonstrating his willingness by polite gesticu-
lations, and many expressions of thankfulness, in language
too complex for my pen to define, which only a French-
man can execute, he accepted the coffee, and took his
place between us cheerfully. After discussing the merits
of the entertainment, and doing justice to the good
things before us, we were very much amused by the
many stories and anecdotes which the Frenchman
favoured us with, for he was quite a story-teller, and
very intelligent, though somewhat at a loss to express
himself properly in the English language, but sufficient
for us to understand, and to cause a good laugh.

What fellows those Frenchmen are, to be sure for
telling a story ! they make a shrug of the shoulder, or a
wink of the eye, have twenty different meanings ; and
their hands are most eloquent. One might say they talk
with their hands and on their fingers — and their broken
English I think helps them. I will transcribe one story he
told, as well as my memory will suggest, for the reader's
special benefit ; but if I could only give you his voice,

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842

THE ZOUAVE AND POLISH LANCER.

gestures and manner it would, I am sure, amuse you, but
I am afraid it will lose much of its prestige by my
relating it. However, I will endeavour to do it justice,
but if I make a bull of it, you know it is the attribute
of an Irishman, which ought to be an ample apology. So
here goes : —

" Veil, von night," commenced the Zouave, *' T vos mit
my picket guart, und it vos raining like de vera devil,
and de vind vos vinding up de valley of Balaklava, so
cold as nothing at all, and de dark vos vot you could not
see — no — not your nose before your face.

" Veil, I hear de tramp of horse, and I look into de dark
— for* we were very much on the qui-vive, because ve expec
de dam Russ to attaque de next day — but T see noting ;
but de tramp of horse came closer and closer, and at last I
challenge ' Que va la,* und de tramp of de horse atop. I
run forward, and den I see von Ruas offisair of Polish
Lancers. I addressed him ' La Francais,' and tell him he
vos in our lines, but I do not vant to mek him prisonair
— for you must know dat he vos prisonair, if I like, ven
he vos vithin our line. He is very polite — he say, " Bien
oblige, bon enfant,* und ve tek off our hat to each ozer.
' I aff lost my roat,* he say ; and I say * Yais ' — bote I
vill put him into his roat, and so I ask for a moment par-
don, and go back to my corporal, and tell him to be on
de qui vive, till I come back. De Russ offisair and me
talked vera plaisant vile ve go togezer down de leetel
roat, and ven ve come to de turn, I say, * Bon soir, Mon-
sieur le Capitaine, dat ish your vay.' He den tank me

< -' . -■

A OLORIOtrS SURPKI8B.

d4d

vera mcohe like yon gentilman, and vish he coot make
some return for my generosite, as he please to say'— and
I say ' Bah I Russ offisair vood do de same to French
gentilman who lose his vay. ' Den come here/ he say,
' Bon enfant, can you leave your post for aff an hour ? ' ,
' Leave my post ? ' I say. ' Yais/ said he, ' I know your
army has not moche provision lately, and mayb- yo^i are
ongrie ? ' Ma f oi, yais,' said I ; ' I aff not slips to my
eyes, nor meat to my stomach, for more dan fife days/
' Veil, bon enfant/ he say, ' Come vis me, and I vill gif
you, goot supper, goot vine, and goot velcome. Coot I
leave my post?' I say. He say, 'Bah, corporal ta.u.i<?
care till you come back.' " By gar, I coot naut resist— he
vos so vare much gentilman, and I vos so ongrie — I go
vis him — ^not fife hundred yarts — ah ! bon Dieu — ^how
nice ! In de« comer of a leetel ruin 'ouse dere vos n'?3
bit of fire, and hang on a string before it de half of a
sheep — oh ciel! de smell of de ros beef vos so nice — ^I
rub my hands to de fire — I sniff de cuisine — I see in an-
ozer comer a couple bottles of vine — sac^ it vos all
watair in my mouts ! Ve sit down to suppui — I nevair
did ate so moche in my life. Ye did finish de bones, and
vosh down mit vor goot wine — excellent ! Ve drink de
toast — ' a la gloirie ' — and ve talk of de campaign. V6
drink ' a la Patrie,' and den I tink of ' la belle France/
and * ma douce amie ' — and he did de same. Ve den
drink ' a I'amitie/ and shek hands over dat fire in goot
frainship — dem two hands dat might cross de swords io
de morning. Yais, sair, dat vos fine — 'twas galliard—

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344

YEBB YAS TOU LAST NIGHT, SAIB ?*'

'twas la vrai chivalrie — ^two sojair ennemie to shate de
same leg of mutton, drink de same vine, a^d talk like
two friends. Veil, I got den so sleepy, dat my eyes
blink, blink, and my goot friend says to me, ' Sleep, old
fellow ; I know you aff got hard fare of late, and you
vos tired ; sleep, all vos quiet for to-night, and I vUl call
you before dawn, Sair, I vos so tired, I forgot my duty,
and fall down fast asleep. Veil, sair, in de night de
pickets of de two armie get so close, and mix up, dat
some shots gets fired, and in one moment all vos in con-
fusion. I am shake by de shoulder — I vake like from
dream — I heard sharp fusillade — my friend cry, ' Fly to
your p^st ; it vos attack ! ' We exchange one shek of de
hand, and I run off to my post. Oh, ciel ! — it voa driven
in — I see dem fly. Oh, mon desespoir a ce moment la 1
I am., ruin — dishonore — I rush to de front — I rally mes
braves — ve stand — ^ve advance — ve regain de post — ^I am
safe — de fusillade cease. It vos only an affair of out-
posts. I tink I am safe — I tink I am ver fine fellow —
but Monsieur la Colonel send for me and speak, * Vere
vos you last night, sair ? * ' I mount guart by de ravine ? '
* Are you sure ? * ' Oui, Monsieur.' * Vere vas you ven
your post vos attacked ? * I saw it vos no use to deny
any longair, so I confess to him everyting. * Sair,* said
h0, ' You rally your men vera goot, or you should be
shot. But in punishment for your vera grave offence you
vill revert to your former rank of von private soldat, and
tink yourself very moche favoured. Go, sair, and do
your duty as rank and file.' Oh! mon Dieu! I yiU

**WHAT HAVE YOO GOT IN THE BAOV

345

never forget his vorts, they vos impress 'pon my: heart
like nothing. I vos dere and den ordered to doff minQ
epaulets and cold lace, and don de private sojair uniform."

"Ah! Francais, that was a great misfortune you got
into through yielding to the allurements of the Polish
Lancer. He must be a generous fellow though to have
treated you so kindly, in sharing his supper and wine
with you, whose sword might be crossed by his in the
very next battle. However you ought to be very thank-
ful that you were not shot. If you were in the British
army you would not ha,ve got off so leniently, I can tell
you, ior leaving your post when before the enemy."

" Eh ! Bien, comrade, it vos von vera bad offense, I vos
vera mache vex mit myself ven I vos deprive of mine
epaulets and cold lace.

" What have you got in the bag, Monseir ? " queried
Dandy, who suspected that the bag contained a drop of
something stronger than Adam's ale.

"Veil ! comarade,! vos mit some Inglas offisair votbuy
Bome coot cognac," said he, taking a bottle out of his bag
and exhibiting it between Dandy and the glimmering
light to convince him of its purity.

" That vos vera fine cognac, comarade."

** How much for the bottle ? " quoth Dandy, whose eyes
opened wide when he beheld the tempting beverage.

"Bon comarade," said he, "von offisair giv* me ten
frank. Bot you von coot comarade, vot gib me coot 'ot
coffee and bisque ; you giv' me fife frank, den tek him."

** All right, here's your money," said Dandy, handing
him four English shillings.

'.■-■'5

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34(5

EXIT, ZOUAVE.

" Vera coot, comarade, dat vill do/* said he, stowing
t^waiy the cash. ^

" You must have indulged pretty freely that night you
left your post," said I, " or else you would never have
slept so soundly away from your guard. Are you fond of
liquor?"

" Me no like cognac, comarade, boot me like plenty ex-
cellent vine, it vos vera coot for my stomach."

Our discourse was interrupted by the frequent salvos
of cannon, explosion of shells and incessant rattling of
musketry, which warned us of an attack on our position.
When the Zouave made a precipitate exit, and ran to-
ward'his camp as fast as ever his legs could carry him,
lest he might again be reported absent from his post,
should their works be attacked by the treacherous
enemy.

He had scarcely left a half an hour when the alarm
was given to turn out the whole. The division was,
therefore, fell in and marched off at once to reinforce
the covering party in the trenches. On arrival we found
that the covering party, though much overpowered, had
succeeded, after a hard contested batile and hand-to-hand
struggle, in driving llie enemy from our trenches and
taking several of them prisoners.

We then returned to camp and laid down for two or
three hours to dream of cold and frost-bites. The French
were also surprised by a sudden attack at the same time,
but, as usual, gallantly repulsed the enemy with a heavy
loss.

t . ■ ^^<. _-.

l *T

AS Afi.MT3/[CB GEA17TED.

847

At the request of Genl. Ostensacken, atT armistice waa
granted by Lord Raglan from twelve till one o'clock ne^t
day, to enable the Russians to bury their dead.

Accordingly, at twelve o'clock,' white flags were run up
on the batteries at both sides, and immediately after-
wards a body of Russians issued from the Redan, Flag-
staff, and Malakoff batteries, and proceeded to carry off
their dead. Our men, simultaneously with the French,
emerged from their batteries also on a similar errand.

A few Russian officers advanced about half way toward
our batteries, where they were met by several British and
French officers, when extreme courtesy, the interchange
of profound bowings and salutations, marked the inter-
view. The officers walked up and down, shakos were
raised and caps doffed politely as they approached each
other.

In the meantime the soldiers were busily engaged bear-
ing off the field the dead and wounded. About one o'clock
the Russians, having accomplished their painful task, re-
tired behind their batteries, and immediately after the
white flags were hauled down.

The instant the flags dropped, the flash and report of a
big gun from the Malakoff announced that the war had
begun once more, our batteries simultaneously opened
fire, and the popping of rifles commenced with renewed
vengeance on both sides.

The preparations for a general bombardment of Sebas-
topol were progressing rapidly, and arrangements were
made to send up two thousand pounds of ammunition

V ..\ 'J

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348

THE LULL BEFORE THE STORM.

per day to the front from the harbour. About two hun-
dred mules were pressed into the service, in 'addition to
the railway, which, by the way, was making rapid strides
toward completion. The Highland brigade, besides all
the artillery horses, were employed daily in transporting
shot and shell to the front. This was rather heavy duty
for the Highlanders after all their hard fighting, which
distressed and disabled them very much. The Guards
were also down at Balaklava employed at the same work,
though many of them seemed in very delicate health, but
a few old campaigners had attained that happy state in
which no hardships or privations could have any effect
on thein.

The silence and calm of the ?ast few days seemed but
the omen of the struggle which was speedily expected
for the possession of Sebastopol. The Russsians were
silent also, because we did not impede their works.

Our whole forces being employed in the transport of
the enormous amount of projectiles and mountains of
ammunition, which would be required for the service of
our batteries when we opened a general bombardment
In addition^ the railway had begun to render us some
good service in the transport of shot and shell, and en-
abled us to form a small depdb about four miles from
Balaklava, which, however, was not large enough for the
demands made upon it, and was emptied as soon as formed,
by parties from the regiment in front, who carried the
ammunition to the camp dep6t four miles further on.
Every means were put forward to advance the completion

'-■,'a,*v«'

V -^.^-'in

ANOTHEU VICTOBT IN THE TRENCHES.

349

of the railway. The navvies worked at it hard and hon-
estly, with a few exceptions, but the dread of the provost-
marshal had produced a wholesome influence on the dis-
position of the refractory. A part of the Naval brigade
were also employed in its construction, in order to hasten
the work as much as possible.

March 4th. We furnished a covering party in the ad-
vanced trench ; it was a bright moonlight night, with cold,
frosty wind. The enemy availed themselves of the
brightness of the night by keeping up a constant fusil-
lade of musketry on our trenches. At about day-break
the rattling and volleys of musketry, mingled with the
roar of round shot, whistling and bursting of shells was
something terrible, one would have thought that the
world was coming to an end. Under cover of the scath-
ing fire the Russians made a determined sortie on our
trenches, but fortunately, we anticipating their move-
ments, and suspecting their point of attack, had doubled
our forces and placed obstacles in their path, which threw
them into confusion before they reached our trenches,
from which we peppered them with musketry as they
advanced, and gave them the bayonet as they jumped our
trenches, when a terrible hand-to-hand struggle ensued.
But at last the indomitable bravery, British pluck and
cold steel prevailed, when our old supremacy, so rudely
assailed, was triumphantly asserted, and the phalanx of
the Czar, as usual, were forced to succumb and take to
their heels by a precipitate exit from our trenches, and
run for shelter behind their own parapets from the

■ >f, ■

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350

HORSE-RACING IS CAMP.

■Mi

L-i

showers of musketry which we rattled after them, knock*
inj^'many of them over in their flight, which^ was veritieti
next morning by the number of dead they left on thf
field.

March 7th. Yesterday being a fine sunny day, oui
first spring meeting took place, and was numerously at-
tended. The races came off on a level piece of ground
near the Tuhernaya river, and were regarded with much
interest by the Cossacks, on Canrobert's Hill. They evi-
dently thought that the assemblage was connected with
some military demonstration, and galloped about in a
great state of excitement to and fro. In the midst of the
races, a party of twelve Russians were seen approaching
the sentry on the old redoubt beyond Inkerman ; the sen-
try fired, and ten of them fled, but two of them ran to-
wards the sentry, and gave themselves up as deserters
from the Russians. One of them was an oflicer, but had
suffered degradation. They were both Poles, spoke
French fluently, and expressed great satisfaction at their
escape from Russian bondage, and said, " Send us
wherever you please, provided we never see Russia again."
They stated that they had deceived the men who accom-
panied them into the belief that the sentry was one of
their own outposts, and they, being recruits, believed them,
and advanced boldly until the sentry fired at them, when
they discovered their mistake, and fied. As they were
well mounted they dashed towards our lines; the Cossacks
tried to cut them off; but failed in the attempt. They re-
quested that their horses might be sent back to the Rus-

i^rtV f

,-^^

THE BALAKLAVA RAILWAY.

S5i

sian lines/Kas they did not belong to them, they did not
wish to be accused of theft. The horses therefore, we^e
taken to the brow of the hill and set free, when they
threw up their heels like young colts in a pasture-field,
and capered as if they had been fed on buck-wheat, and
then dashed off as hard as ever they could run towards
the Cdssacks. This little incident, however, did not stop
the races, which proceeded as all other races do, with all
the excitement of winning and losing small sums of
money, and subsequently towards six o'clock the crowd
dispersed.

That same evening after coming home from the races,
myself and comrade, with several others of the company,
were detailed to proceed to Balaklava at six o'clock next
morning, for the pui-pose of carrying up to camp a supply
of provisions, which had been landed off board ship for
our regiment. '

As we marched down, we were agreeably surprised at
seeing the progress made in building the railway. There
was about two miles of it quite finished. It winds its
way from the post-o£Sce in Balaklava, towards Kadikoi,
passing by old Mother Seacoles* well-known half-way
house, and was graded up as far as the 4th division. The
sleepers were on the ground along the line. A station-
ery engine had been placed on the hill side above Eadi-
koi, which pulled the trucks up from Balaklava. The
Turbs at first were greatly scared and astonished by the
puffs of steam from its iron lungs, and the shrieks and
screams as it was put in motion. We had a good yi«w of

«^.v../

852

YIQILANCE OF THE 008SACK8.

the Cossacks beyond the valley of Balaklava,*busily en-
gageid throwing out their picquets and sentries all along
the top of Canrobert's Hill. These sentries could 8e««
everything that went on in the plain, from the entrance
to Balaklava to the edge of the hill on which our right
rested. Not a horse, cart, or man, could go in or out o1
the town, without being seen by those videttes. The
works of the railway must have caused them very serious
apprehensions. Besides, they could see villages of white
wooden huts gradually rise up on the hill-side, nnd in the
valleys, and from the cavalry camp to the heights of Ba-
laklava, they could see line after line of those stiuctures.
and discover the tumult and bustle around Kadikoi.
That might all be very puzzling ; but it could have been
nothing compared to their excitement when they beheld
the railway trucks rushing round the hiU, and down the
incline at the rate of twenty miles an hour. They gal-
loped up to the top of the hill to look at this phenome-
non, and then capered about shaking their lances when
the trucks disappeared.

As we advanced a little further we came up to Lord
B^glan, accompanied by his staff, inspecting the railway
on his way down to Balaklava, where he afterwards in-
spected the progress and condition of various military and
naval de|)artments, and subsequently went on board a
man-of-war in the harbour, to visit some sick soldiers who
had embarked for conveyance to Scutari Hospital We
regretted to see so much evidence of sickness down at
Balaklava among the troops, dysentery and diarrhcea, in-
stead of abating, seemed on the increase, and scurvy had

(

DEPLORABLE LACK O^ WATEB.

853

(begun to show itself among the troops. It was no' won-
der that the men got scurvy, living on salt rations and
hard biscuits, without vegetables of any kind, and sleep-
ing in their clothes, without a chance to wash themselves
or change their inside clothing ; water being so scarce we
could not wash our linen.

Lest I might shock my gentle reader's refined ideas of
comfort and cleanliness, I will refrain from describing
the filthy state of the whole British army, yes, and the
French too, for the want of clean linen, or water to wash
themselves with. Suffice it to say that several new flan-
nel waist-bands which had been served out to the men
for comfort during the winter were thrown away conse-
quent on the swarms of the most vulgar species of the
parasitical genus, which we formerly associated with beg-
gars and other nomadic tribes of the unclean. Those
waist-bands could have been frequently seen, if one looked
sharp enough, on the ground proximate with the camp
occupied by large armies, which were moving slowly in
skirmishing order. Just to give you an idea of the scar-
city of water, I took my canteen, water bottle, and soap
down to the spring one day to wash my linen. I waited
there two hours for my turn, after which I filled my can-
teen and little bottle with the blessed fluid. I then
washed my clothes on a flag. I then had to wait two
hours more for another turn at the spring to get water
to rins& them, making in all four hours I had to wait.
This demonstrates clearly the difficulty we had experi«
enced in procuring a sufficient supply of water for ablu-
tion purposes.

■^

* M

■ fp-

M-. '.'

I'-'

CHAPTER XVIII.

BiHK-PiTS— ST. Patrick's day — foueth division — French lOfMi—

OBNBaAL attack — TEE BATTLE — FLAG OF TRUCE— BUUYINO THI
DEAD — BNNISKILLBNER— HARD TACK— TIFFIN— THE ALARM— THB
ADVANCE— THE COSSACKS — THE TURKS — FAIR AMAZONS— THE ON-
SLAUGHT — DAUGHTERS OF EKIN — RUSSIAN ADVANCJE— THE HIGH-
LANDERS — heavies' charge — LIGHT BRIGADE— THE CHARGE.

ARCH 18th. There had been a fierce struggle be-
tween the French and Russians last night for the
possession of the rifle-pits. Those pits were situated in
front of the Mamelon, and the Russian sharpshooters oc-
cupy them every night, and keep up a most galling and
destructive fire against the exposed parts of the advanced
trenches of our right attack, as well as that of the French.
The shot from our batteries made the rifle-pits too hot a
place for the Russians during the day, but at night they
crawled back and occupied them, supported by large
bodies of infantry ; in those encounters the enemy had
many men killed and wounded.

These rifle-pits cost both armies lar;::^e quantities of am-
munition, as well as the sacrifice of many valuable lives ;
but the French were determined to wrest them from the
Russians at any cost, for they were a source of the great*

[*-r:-i-

FBENCH VS. BT7SSIAN&

855

est anno3'aace to them. They Rent a strong force of about
six thousand men down close t.o our second and light div-
isions, before dusk yesterday evening, and shortly after-
wards they were sent to the advanced trenches on our
right ; the covering party and riflemen were ordered out
to occupy the rifle-pits ; they advanced but found that
the Russians had anticipated them, and that the enemy
were already in possession of the pits. A fierce battle
then ensued, but it was found that the enemy were there
in much larger force than was expected ; therefore, the
French could not then drive them from their position,
notwithstanding their repeated attempts to do so. The
contest was carried on by musketry, and the volleys
which rang out incessantly for five hours roused the
whole camp.

From the constant roll of musketry, and the incessant
flashes like lightning in front, one would have thought
that a general engagement between large armies was
going on. The character of the battle had something un-
usual about it, owing to the absence of round shot or
sheE About 7.30 p.m.. the 4th division was turned out
and took up a position near the Green Hill battery, under
the command of Sir John Campbell, and the light divi-
sion under Sir George Brown, at the same time, marched
towards the 21 gun battery ; the second and third divi-
sions were also turned out and marched to the trenches
in their front, after the French had desisted and retired
from the assault on the rifle-pits ; those divisions, after
remaining under arms for five hours, were marched to

1 ■.

^oflRw

356

THE RIFLE-PIT8.

camp again witliout being engaged. Had the French re-
quired our assistance we were ready and willing to give
it, but tl ey were determined on taking those pits them-
selves, without any aid from us. The Zouaves bore the
heaviest part of this battle ; we could distinctly hear their
officers between the volleys of musketry, cheering on their
men and encouraging them, and the rush of men gene-
rally followed, then a volley of musketry was heard, fol-
lowed by rapid file firing, then a Russian cheer and more
musketry. Between the volleys we could hear the officers
again giving the commands in French. Then a loud
cheer, aijid crash and flash of musketry in rapid succession.
The Russians, stimulated by reinforcements, dashed head-
long with renewed vengeance, rallied by their officers,
who, by the way, are very brave. The French never
flinched though, but met their overpowering antagonists
gallantly with a bold cheer of defiance. This work went
on for about five hours, when the French at length re-
tired rather than lose their men unnecessarily. The
French loss, as it was at that affair, came pretty heavy,
twenty officers and two hundred men killed, besides the
wounded and prisoners. But the Russian loss was over
•six hundred killed and wounded. The French were so
greatly exasperated at being foiled in their attempt to
capture the rifle-pits, by the bravery of the Russians,
that General Canrobert, incensed at the repulse, hastened
to the scene of strife, at a very early hour next morning,
accompanied by his staff, to reconnoitre the position of
the rifle-pits, Malakoff and Mamelon. That same evet^

f'l I

%■•:

"-?' i.*/.V*

ST. Patrick's dat ik camp. *

857

ing, after dark, a stronger force of the French thap before,
with a battery of field pieces were moved down cautiously
towards their advanced works, and when they had all
their forces marshalled ready under cover, the signal
being given, they made another impetuous attempt and a
bold dash to capture the rifle-pits ; this time they were
more successful, the Russians having been taken some-
what unawares, notwithstanding they fought bravely and
contended fiercely to hold their own ; but at last, after a
hard fought battle, which lasted all night, the French
valour prevailed in dislodging them, amid a blaze of fire
from the batteries and forts at daybreak. The French,
after gaining possession of the pits, reversed the sand-bags
and loop-holes, and directed a heavy fire against the
Mamelon and Malakoff. This acquisition of the French
galled the Russians fearfully, but they had to repress
their pride and drink the bitter cup of humiliation.

Yesterday being St. Patrick's day, many officers and
soldiers might be seen early in the morning on the hill-
side in search of something green to wear in their caps as
a substitute for a real shamrock, the symbol of Old Erin ;
but like the dove sent forth from the ark at first, ** not
finding where her foot might rest," returned to the ark,
so with the soldiers, not finding anything green, returned
to the camp, and improvised pieces of green ribbon into
mock substitutes for the real emblem. In the afternoon
we had horse races to perpetuate the day, and show that
Irishmen, though far from their native land, had not for-
gotten the rites and ceremonies by which this celebrated
day had been formerly commemorated by them.

/ •

' ,*i

yT'n'vvT^^^^r^r^

,',. ;^^^^

' X ■-

358

UNWELCOME VISITORS.

The crowd of sportsmen who participated in the
racinj^, though very much bronzed and weatlier-beaten,
seemed in excellent spirits, if one might judge from the
amount of the hilarity and ludicrous incidents which
took place, and evoked much laughter ; but the thunder
of the big guns before Sebastopol and the explosion of
shells frequently rose high above the shouts and cheers
of the applauding crowd, and somewhat damped out the
excitement whenever one of those dread engines of war
came close enough to warn them of danger. However,
when those messengers exploded or passed harmlessly by,
the excitement rose again to fever heat, whenever an in-
fantry Dob-tail nag took the pole from a cavalry charger
on the home stretch, and came in first by a head and
neck. But the softer effects of military influence were
not wanting, for between the intervals of excitement the
bands of the Irish regiments throughout the camp en-
livened the day by the crash of martial music and popular
airs, which sounded very sweetly in the distance. Next
evening our regiment furnished a working party of one
hundred men for the third parallel.

On arrival, at the trenches, we were told off into gangs
often men each, to cut a new advance trench. Every
file of men got a pick-axe and shovel and were placed at
six paces apart, on the open ground, without any cover
or shelter whatever from the Russian giape and canis-
ter, which they fired incessantly at our working parties
in order to keep them from throwing up trenches or bat-
tericA. We placed a man on the look-out for the flashes

:-:■?;

RUSSIANS AGAIN BEPULSED.

359

of the guns, while we worked hard to dig a hple and
throw up cover for ouiselves. About twelve o'clock the
sentries in advance of us seeing a column of Russians
emerge from their batteries, gave the alarm by firing on
them, but they came so suddenly upon us that we had
scarcely time to snatch up our rifles before they were
upon us, bayoneting our men before we were prepared to
meet them. When our sentries first discovered them
they were close upon us.

Taken at a great disadvantage, and overpowered by
superior numbers, we were properly cornered, but when a
man is cornered he generally does his best to extricate
himself, so it was with us,/or we met them hand-to-hand
with the bayonet, and fought like British lions, meeting
their assault with undaunted courage, and pursued by
shot they ran at the top of their speed towards their own
batteiies, where they took refuge under cover. The attack
was general along the whole line.

At ten p.m., our batteries, in conjunction with the
French, finding out their treachery, began to shell the
town, in return for their perfidy, pouring our rockets and
shells in successive streams of lightning into the very
heart of their city, setting many of their best buildings
on fire. When first the Russians advanced on our trenches
the sentries in advance of Chapman's battery gave the
alarm also, that the enemy were advancing in force
on the trenches; therefore our covering party, as well
as the French, were pretty well prepared to receive them
with a vengeance. But the French were so very much

rr r^:P

:v.iv»

/• !

; V

S60

COL. &ELLY TA1L1SN PtllSOVtSLs

overpowered by them that out. troops extended along a
portion of their trenches overlapping then^, and then
backed them up. On the left attack the enemy also ad-
vanced in great force at the same time, through a weak
part of our trenches, turning the third parallel; they
killed and wounded many of our men, and actually had
advanced to the second parallel, when our covering party
charged down upon them with the bayonet, and drove
them back after a fierce conflict. On the right the 34th
Regiment had a strong force to contend with, and as
Col. Kelly, their commanding officer, was leading them
on against the enemy gallantly, he got wounded severely,
so tha^ he was captured and taken prisoner, and carried
off to Sebastopol. After an hour's hard fighting and great
bravery, the enemy was driven back to their own bat-
teries, leaving many dead and wounded behind. During
this affair we had ten officers and one hundred men
placed^ hors de combat ; the French had fifteen officers
and two hundred men killed, wounded and taken pris-
oners. Oji the other hand the enemy lost between seven
and eight hundred men. The number of dead Bussians
lying around our trenches and on the fitli in front, proved
that they got a severe chastisement, which they deserved
and experienced a fearful loss of men and officers.

The bodies of one officer and sixteen men remained in
our trench until next day, and in front of our trenches
the ground was literally covered with their dead. About
one o'clock next day, flag?' of truce were run up from the
Redan and Malakoff, and shortly afterwards white flags

'•^.: !•■!"■ -'i?

COURT£ST 01 THE BELLIGEBBNTS.

SGI

were seen waving from the French and En^ish batiteriesi
The instant the flags were hoisted, friend and foe emerged
from their batteries in swarms, and commenced to pick
out their comrades, and bear them off the field. The
sight was a strange one, the French, English and Russian
officers saluting each other most courteously as they
passed to and fro, and a constant interchange of civilities
took place between them. But while all this politeness
was going on, the soldiers of both sides were carrying off
their fallen comrades from the blood-stained ground
which was covered with strong proofs of the recent battle.
There British, French and Russian soldiers lay as they
had fallen, in their gore and glory, with broken muskets,
bayonets, pouches, belts, fragments of clothing, pools of
blood, broken gabions, fascines, and torn sand-bags, visi-
ble on every side ; and the solemn procession of soldiers,
bearing their comrades to their last resting-place looked
a most ghastly spectacle. In the midst of all this evi-
dence of war, a certain amount of lively conversation took
place between the Russians and our men, such as " Bono
Inglais, Francais no bono, Rooso bono," they led us to
believe that they liked the British soldiers much better
than the French, although we always made it hot for
them whenever we met them in mortal combat, for which
they gave us the name of " red devils." It took two
hours to bury the dead, which were laid down gently side
by side, in one big deep wide pit, when something like
the following casual observations and ejaculations would
instinctively escape from a comrade, when he beheld the

362

THE sailor's battery.

,if'i

gory, stiff, stark, inanimate form of a messmate brougli I
on a stretcher to the grave. ^

" That's poor Peter Abbott, he was my right hand
man." " There's Dan Sullivan, he'll never quiz ould
Blake again about his bald pate." Next, " Sergeant Kent,
devil a man he'll ever put in the guard-room again ; but
no matter, he was a good duty sergeant, but rather
strict. ' What's the good of all his strictness to him now ?"
" Oh ! Poor Andy Hynes, I know him by his red hair.
Lord have mercy on his soul, and may the sod rest lightly
over his ashes ! he was a good kind-hearted creature."

"JVhen the two hours were expired, the armistice was
over, and scarcely had the white flags disappeared behind
the parapet of the Redan, before a round shot from the
sailors' battery knocked through one of their embrasures,
raising a pillar of dust; the Russians &\ once replied,
and the roar of big guns and mortars drowned all other
noise.

We were not sorry when our relief arrived that evening,
for we were sick at heart from burying so many of our
brave comrades, who had fought so gallantly during the
night. But all things in this world of sorrow come to
an end some time, and so that long wearisome day came
to an end, when we were marched to our camp under
cover of the darkness.

Next day, my comrade and I were sitting cross-legged
in Turkish fashion, in our little hut at dinner (if dinner
I may be pardoned for calling it; but I think " tiffin "as
the swells say, would be a more appropriate term, for wfl

ONE OF THE "NOBLE SIX HUNDRED.*

363

liad nothing before us that would justify me in dig^fy-
ing it with that appellation, save our usual quantum of
hard tack, salt junk, and coffee), when in walked one of
the Bnniskillens, who was employed on despatch duty
on General Pennefather's staff, whose tent stood in con-
venient proximity to our hut.

After joining us (at our request), in a little of the good
things, which we were actively discussing, he lit his pipe
sociably, and then amused us very much by a thrilling
account of the battle of Balaklava, in which he had been
engaged, the veracity of the incidents so ably delineated,
he verified by exposing to our view two sabre cuts, one
of which left him minus the right ear.

For the information of my gentle reader, I will en-
deavour to transcribe the story as near verbatim as my
memory will suggest :

"If I live for a hundred years," !?aid he, "I shall
never forget that memorable morning, the 25th October.
Before we had iiine to water our horses, or break our
own fast, which we had not done since the day before,
we were alarmed by the sound to boot and saddle, and
had scarcely time to surmise what was the matter, when
we found ourselves drawn up in squadrons on the slope
behind the redoubt in front of our camp. On lookipg
to the left, we beheld eight or ten compact columns of
Etissian infantry, which had just debouched from the
narrow mountain passes near the Tchemaya river> and
were advancing in solemn grandeur up the plains towards
Balaklava, covered by regular line« of field batteries of at

364

THE TURKS ABANDON THEIR GUNS.

least twenty-four pieces strong. Two battalions of horse
artillery were already a mile in adrance of the whole, and
firing with energy on the redoubts which were manned
by the timorous Turks, and from which puffs of smok«
came at long intervals. Behind those guns, and in front
of the infantry, were enormous bodies of Russian cavalry.
Tliey were in compact columns, four on each flank of the
miantry, and advancing en echelon towurds the i3riti«h.
The valley was lit up with the blaae of their sabres,
lances and gay trappings, in green and gold, in blue and
silver with furred pelises, and jackets richly embroidered
en the breast and sleeves, and all the glitter of a gorgeous
eq\iipment. In their front, and extended along the in-
tervals between each battery of guns, were lines of Cos-
sack skirmishers. The first result of the enemy's
movement was a commotion amongst the turbans and fez
caps in the redoubt, as the shells of the enemy burst over
them. The Russian cavalry advanced rapidly upon the
Turks, who got scared at the o^ erwhelming force of the
enemy; f/ced a few shots and fled at their approach.
They ran in scattered groups across the plain towards
Balaklava ; some running down the deep slope, and some
pitched headlong from the escarpment of the parapet.
But the swift hors*^ of the Cossack was too quick for
them, and sword and lance were busily plied among
the retreating herd, who were knocked over in their
flight like nine pins. As a remnant of them were strag-
gling in from the front with their goods and chattels on
their backs, and occasionally prostrating Uiemselvei^ in

t{ !i

■in^'i^''^r ^

THE THREE AMAZONa

365

the direction of Mecca praying to Allah to save them from
the fury of the Muscovites, they were intercepted in their
flight by three fair Amazons, who were employed at a
amall stream, washing linen tor the Oonnaught Eangers.

" * Go back an' tight for yer counthry this minute, ye
dirty, cowardly hathens !' cried the most masculine look-
ing of the trio, as she administered a clout on the ear
with the cloth she was wringing on the foremost runaway.
* Start back I tell ye with that in yer lug ! Hi 1 Mrs.
Duffy, Mrs. O'Neil, come here an help me, we must stop
these flying thieves av the world ! It's most loikely they
have eaten cur brave min's dinners, as they come by, for
ye pursave that they have their gobs full. Give yon
sheepish looking loon a whack wid yer fist Mrs. O'Neil.'

" ' Ay ! Ay ! ' replied the latter as she cuffed the gentle-
man attired in dark-blue, baggy nether garments and red
fez cap. Meantime the third damsel made brisk and
liberal application of the wash-board which she had been

USlQg.

" ' Mashalla ! Mashalla ! Mashalla ! * . screamed the
wretched delinquents ; whack, whack went the clout,
' Sich a disgrace ! Give it them the cowardly thieves,
shouted the leader of the party, whilst the other two
emitted screams of revengeful triumph, and continued
the onslaught with increased vigour. * Shure the devils
can't be satisfied wid one dacent woman fur a wife, bud
must have two or three hundred. Oh ! divil a lie in it,
Mrs. O'Neil,' said the leader, * Shure they are no betther
nar the Mormons,'

366

THE MORALITY OF THE TUBKS.

" ' Arrah, Mrs. McQra, d'ye tell me so/ said Mrs. Duffy,
after the Moslems had made their escape from the
clutches of their fair assailants.

" * Divil a lie, I'm tellin* ye/ said Mrs. McGra. * Sure it
wor no later nar last week that Tim tould me as how
these thievin infidels can have as many wives as they
loike.'

" * Oh ! Presarve the hearers/ said Mrs. O'Neil, as she
turned the whites of her eyes upwards, * In troth its me-
self that's sorry entoirely that our brave min have to
fight fur sich hathens.'

" As the three fair daughters of Erin were dilating: on
the morality of the Turks, a dull, heavy, continuous sound
announced the approach of cavalry, and almost before
they were aware, a numerous body of Russian cavalry
swept past in the direction of Balaklava. One glance at
the cut of their long gray coats and deep saddles, and the
broad caps, was sufficient to show who and what they
were.

" ' Begorra ! we'll be taken prisoners if we stay here
much longer,' exclaimed Mrs. McGra, 'look at all the
Rooshan cavalry crassin' the plain ! '

"'Faith then, asthore machree, its thrue for ye,' said Mrs.
O'Niel, ' let's be off" at once, there's the 93rd Regiment
formin' a line over beyant forninst us, let's get behind
thim.'

" So saying they collected their clothes and washing
utensils, and retreated in rear of the Highlanders, who
had already formed line to defend the heights.

THE LINE OF QAEUC BOCK.

367

' 'J

" In the meantime the great body of the JElussian tovalry
had moved forward at a pace which, though rapid at first,
was momentarily subsiding into a walk. On the front
lines came crowding against a vastly inferior force.

" The full peril of the moment was seen and felt by our-
selves as well as by the spectators, who looked on from
their elevated position on the heights, and who now saw
plainly that tipon our two short lines of dragoons de-
pended, perhaps, the safety of the British base of opera-
tions. We watched them anxiously, waiting in suspense
for the order to dash at them.

" Tho silence was oppressive, between the sound of big
guns we could hear the champing of their horses' bits and
the chink of thoir sabres in the valley just below us.

" The Russian cavalry walked along very slowly for a
little while in order to allow their horses to breathe, und
iheu in one grand liae they charged in towards Balak-

2ava.

" The ground seemeJ to fly before them, gathering
t?peed at every stride, they dash towards the Highlanders.
With breathless suspense the spectators on the heights
above us await the crash and bursting of the wave upon
the line of Gaelic rock ; but ere they come within two
hundred yards, down goes that Hue of steel in front, and
out rings a deadly volley, which carries terror and de8«
truction into the Russians ; after a second volley the Rus-
siahs wheel about, open files right and left, by threes
about, and then fly back much faster than they came.

t' ;

' >. V

368

SIR COLIN CAMPBELL.

" ' Well done, Highlanders I ' etclaimed Sir Colm Camp-
bell, and a loud cheer from our lusty lungs, as well as
from the crowds of spectators above us on the hill, repaid
the Highlanders for their gallantry.

" When we saw them retiring, we began to think that
we wouldn't be called into action, and we so anxious
for it. But we were not kept long in suspense, for a sec-
ond line was advancing on their left at an easy gallop
towards the brow of the hill ; a forest of lances glistened
in their rear, and several squadrons of gray-coated dra-
goons moved up quickly to support them, as they reached
the summit of the little hill. The instant they came in
sight, our trumpets and the Grays' rang out loud and
shrill through the valley, and then, with our gallant col-
onels at our head, we dashed right at the centre of the
Russian cavalry, Oli ! when I think of it, and look back
at how we rushed at them with our I- vy swords, I feel
more nervous than I did then, for we had no time to
think of anything only rush headlong to the front.

" The Russian line brought forward each wing as we
advanced, and threatened to surround and annihilate us
as we passed on. But they met their match for once, for
as lightning flashes through a thunder cloud, so we pierced
through the Russian cavalry. The shock was terrible.
There was a clash of steel and a light play of swords in
the air, and we cut them to pieces all around us. Yells
and shouts burst from the Russians, and their pistols
were discharged at us ; points and cuts exchanged, and
then we cut right through their squadrons which shook

CHARGE OF THE HEAVY BRIGADE.

30d

f«J

and quivered before us as we rode over them. In a few
moments more we were seen by the spectators emerging
and daehing on with diminished numbers, against the se-
cond line which was advancing against us to retrieve the
fortune of the day. With unabating strength and courage
we cut our way, and dashed through the enemy's squad-
rons.

"Tlie first line of Russians which ^c iiad hacked, cut,
and utterly smashed to pieces, had fled off in confusion
and disorder, when a third line advanced to their rescud
It was a fight jf heroes ; demi-gods could not have done
what we did. By sheer pluck and courage we and the
Grays were winning our way right through the enemy's
squadrons, when out darted to our relief the 1st Royals,
4th and 5 th Dragoon Guards in a flank attack, and ofi^
flies the hostile swarms of Muscovite hordes in wild re-
treat, while high in the air flashed our heavy avenging
swords, which came down with a vengeance, and sharp
blows fell quick and heavy upon Eussian heads. We
paralyzed and disorganized the whole of the Russian cav-
alry into such a chaos and confusion, that they were
obliged to retreat in rear of their artillery and infantry
columns, in order to rally their squadrons into anything
like order again. We expected that this affair would have
capped the climax of the day's proceedings, and so it
would — for the Russians were in full retreat — only that
some person made a great mistake, but who that
person was could not be found out, for dead men tell no
tales. And now occurred tlie melancholy disaster, which

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'* SOMEBODY BLUNDERED.

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filled us all, as well as the spectators with sorrow. The
general, it appears, being ambitions to recover the guDs
whicjji had been captured from the Turks ; gaVe an order
in writing to Captain Nolan, 15th Hussars, to take to
Lord Lucan, directing him to advance the Light Cavalry^
and recover the guns from the enemy, if possible. Shortly
afterwards the order was given by Nolan, who was shot
soon after he gave it, and the Light Cavalry Brigade,
under the command of Lord Cardigan, began to move
down the valley of death (as we called it after that
event).

"As they marched towards the front, the Russians
opened fire on them from their field pieces, as well as
from the guns in the redoubt, and with fearful volleys of
musketry,

" We saw them plainly as we were drawn up in line
just in rear of their position, and could scarcely believe
our eyes, it seemed to us such an absurdity for such a
handful of cavalry to charge a whole army in position.
However, such was the fact. They swept proudly and
bravely on, glittering in the morning sun, in all the pride
and splendour of war — their desperate valour knew no
bounds. Onward dashed the proud cavaliers with an un-
dulating motion which tells of accelerated pace. Their
comrades in arms gaze in sad amazement from the heights
behind us. Oh ! for a trumpet sound to call them back
again I But, no, the thought is vain and hopeless. Fate
beckons them on to a dreadful doom, which obedience de-
crees and coiu*age will not evade ; and for the honour of

^■

.'.-^i::^'' .. i

■■■ 1

WHEN SBALL THEIB OLOST FADE I

871

' Um flag that braved a thousand yearn the battle and the
breeze/ ihey made the desperate charge. A wlore fearfkl
spectacle was never -witnessed by those who, without the
power to aid, beheld their heroic countiymen rushing
into the arms of death ! As they crossed the plain the
whole line of the enemy belched forth flame through which
hissed the deadly missiles.

** Their flight was marked by dead men and horses, by
steeds flying wounded or riderless across the plain. They
never halt or check their speed an instant ; with dimin-
ished ranks, thinned by round shot and musketry ; with
flashing blades above their heads, and with a cheer which
was many a brave and nob)e fellow's death-cry, they flew
into the batteries, leaving the plain strewed with the
bodies of their comrades. Through the clouds of smoke
could be seen their sabrss flashing, as they rushed up to
the guns and dashed between them, cutting down the
gunners who crouched beneath gun and limber, behind
wheels and under the gun horses, where they deft the
Russians to the chin at every stroke. But there is no
time to pause or ferret them out, and they still fly for-
ward pell-mell, for now it is wild excitement, and death
showers of bullets and round shot are forgotten. The
Russians, appalled by this terrific onslaught, waver before
their desperate adversaries ; but they cannot pursue be-
yond a certain distance. Already the foe is circling
round to hem in the scattered remains of that noble
and chivalrous brigade.

** The Russian gunners, when the storm of cavalry ha^
passed, returned to their guns.

■■^;U

1 'd

■/.•sa

^r. ^....,,:._^:

** NOBUE, zrOBLB SIX HXTNDRED."

373

" They saw their own cavaby minglecl with ijhe British,
who had just ridden over them, and to their shame and
everlasting disgrace be it told, they poured a morderoos
volley of grape and canister on the struggling men and
horses, mingling friend and foe in one common ruin.

"The decimated heroes returned, few altogether un-
touched. The wild charge had passed over like a tornado,
leaving but the traces of devastation and ruin behind —
a dreary plain strewed with the bodies of wounded, dying
and dead : The maimed and mutilated charger, with his
military trappings presented a horrible spectacle, while
others, riderless and untouched in the me2ee, gallop to and
fro, or stand beside the motionless form of their late
owner."

Let us turn away from the sad scene and cry all honour
to the heroes of Balaklava ! Their desperate chivalry
saved the British army, struck terror into the enemy's
heart, and crowned the Light Brigade with a wreath of
unfading laurels.

OHARQE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE.

Blow the bugle ! sound the trumpet ! let the olarion'i thrilling ory,
Borae upon the passing breezes, speak defiance far and nigh ;
Let the ringing eohoes wake the stillness of the autumn day.
Where the little band of horsemen wait the signal for the fray.

Few they are : but every breast is swelling with a purpose ^igh«
And a stem resolve is flashing in the light of every eye ;
One the thought in every bosom, one the dearest wish of all.
If it may not be to conquer, yet for Britain's sake to faU.

< "

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374 *BLOW THE BUGLE I SOUND THE TRUMPET !^

Blow the bugle ! sound the trumpet ! let the glorioui pennone wave
Ouly floating in the sunlight o'er the helmets of the ^rave 1
Fer 1^ last the word is given, and to battle for the right,
See the little band of horsemen riding onward to the fight.

Not to snatch an easy triumph ; not to chase a flying foe ;
Not to meet in equal conflict, man to man, and blow for blow ;
'Not with any hope of bringing proudly back the victory,^
But, when duty bids them onward, they are riding forth to die.

For the path of honour lies across a long and rugged plain,
Where eadi onward stride is measured by the fall of comrade slain.
See the dark and serried masses of the foemen far away.
And ou either side the cannon grimly waiting for their prey.

Blow the (bugle ! sound the trumpet ! sound it with a solemn strain.
As the noble-hearted horsemen ride across the dreary plain.
Twice tluree hundred light dragoons in their pageantry and pride,
Tell me, who of all that number shall return at eventide !

Nonepf all will play the craven ; none will rein his charger back,
As they press together onwards all along the deadly track.
Fewer still, but still advancing, till they gain the fatal goal ;
Fitting resting-place for heroes, where the martial thunders roll.

Oh ! how sad, and yet how glorious ! stretched beneath an East*
I em sky ;

Parted not in Jirest peril, side by side the heroes lie I
Far away from lordly castle, far away from cottage home.
Severed each from many a loved one by the leagues of ocean foam.

Weep, oh, weep not for the fallen ! weep not for the young and

brave.
Doomed in all their grace and beauty, thus to find a soldier's grave ;

For they died the death of heroes ; died at duty's stem command ;

Pied for those they loved in Britain, fighting in a foreign land.

)■'

.<M,*y.; M«^

..^ Jfti

*THET HAVE NOBLY DONE TREIB PABT.*

875

8aj not 'twM ift vain their proweu ! lay nptit wm all in vain ;
All the predom life-blood shed ao freely on that gory ^lain ;
Come what may — to fail or conquer — ^they have nobly done th^

part,
And their deed of dauntleu daring strengthens every failing heart.

\ ..til)

9peak it not with stem rebuking to the sordid love of self ;
Shames it not their lofty bearing, schemes of pleasure or of peU ;
Reads it not a lesson to the lagging soldiers of the cross ;
Bidding them to bear unshrinking, pain, and suffering, and loss.

Yes ! their lofty, proud devotion lives enshrined in many a heart.
Nerving many a wavering spirit to embrace the nobler part.
And to fight life's battle bravely, till the sounds of discord cease,
And the strife of earthly passions fades before the reign of peace.

T. F.

'i-^^^'

■ "-'y^^

» *•

*•

•■«r

CHAPTER XIX.

■ZPLOSION — POUNCED UPON — THE ALABM — THS BATTLE — K7TXIB
AND WOUNDED — WOODEN HUTS — GOOD TIMES — THE TURKS — THE
MABCH — KULE BRITANNIA— TUB STAFF — BOMBARDMENT — THE
STORM — THE SIEGE — LIEUT. WILLIAMS— SAILORS— I GET WOXTNDKD
— HOSPITAL — SARDINIANS— DESCRIPTION— ATTACK ON QUARRIES—
FLAG OF TRUCE — ARMISTICE — BURTINO THE DEAD — KILLED AND
WOUNDED.

PRIL 6th. This morning, one of our thirteen inch
mortar batteries fired several of their mighty big
shells into the Redan ; and after they exploded we could
see beams of timber, men's bodies, legs and arms, thrown
high into the air.

One of those shells sunk so deep into the earth, that it
exploded a mine, and tore their works to pieces, we could
see the blaze of fire like lightning tjil. along a portion of
their works.

The working party in the advanced trench last night,
were pounced upon in the middle of the night by the
Russians, and a regular hand-to-hand fight ensued. Our
men who were armed with the new Enfield Rifle, could
not draw their ramrods, the wood of the rifle being new,
had swelled with the rain and continued dampness, caus-
ing the rifle to got wood-bound, this had occurred move

^» >■. J:

A MOKE CHEERFUL APPEARANCE.

377

than once to my own knowledge ; therefore after the first
volley, they had no resource, but, to use their bayonets
and butt end of their rifles, or bill-hooks, pick-axes, and
spades, which they had been using at their work. After
the sentries gave the alarm, the covering party from the
third parallel came to their assistance, and after a fierce
contest, the Russians were repulsed with great loss. Our
loss on that occasion was 60 men killed and wounded.
Next evening on reaching camp we were agreeably sur-
prised at beholding two neat wooden huts which had
been erected for our regiment during our absence, one for
the Grenadiers, and the other for the light company.
When the men took possession of those comfortable huts,
they were delighted at the change. Besides, to perfect
our happiness, we were receiving a small supply of tire-
wood, and things were beginning to assume a more cheer-
ful appearance. The weather too was getting fine, and
the camp ground dry. We also got a divisional cantiion
established, where we could purchase several artidet^ ai
luxury, though at an exorbitant price, such as, butter,
cheese, bread, bottled ale and porter, besides several other
useful articles, which we required to nourish and
strengthen us, after the hardship we suffered during
the severe winter. But as the old adage says truly, " It
never rains but it pours," for we were getting winter
clothing now, such as comforters, guernseys, woollen
shirts, and jackets when they were not needed much.

It was a pity our men did not get these things during
the severity of the winter, but even now, they were

j^^
**

J<i A«

|H»M

878

OUB FRIENDS kT BOMB.

thankful for getting them ; they came in useful during the
night time. Their thankfulness, however, was tinged
*'ith bitter regret, that our brave departed comrades could
ij.7er share those comforts. As our neat wooden huts
rose up in rows, one after another, the eye rested sadly
on the rows of humble mounds of earth, which marked
the last resting-place of those noble souls, who perished
in their wet and muddy blankets, under a dismal tent.
I am glad to state, however, that there was not a regi-
•lent in the Crimea, but had some generous friends in the
mother country, whose care and bounty had provided
them with luxuries beyond all price, to the sick and bro<
ken voldiers ; some sent tobacco, cheese, arrowroot, and
warm clothing. In fact, the bountiful kindness and love
of the people at home, had most liberally contributed to
the wants of the army, which never shall be forgot^.
In anticipation of the coming contest for the possession
of Sebastopol, a small acquisition of 12,000 Turks had
been landed at Kamiesch bay, on the 8th of April They
had a long and difficult march to their camp-ground above
Balaklava. It was astonishing that so few menjell out
of the ranks or straggled behind, notwithstanding thi
heavy road and long march. They were the proud pos«
sessors of a brass band, if such it might be called, which
astonished the British soldiers by playing, -"Bule Britaiw-
nia," as they marched past our camp, most of the regi-
ments were preceded by drums and fifes. The colonel
of each regiment and their two majors rode at the head
of their respective corps, caparisoned on small, but. spifi*

'' »

BEINFORCBMENT OF TUBK8.

S79

bed horses, covered with rich saddle-cloths, and followed
by their pipe-bearers.

The mules, with the tents, marched on the right and
the artillery on the left, each gun was drawn by six
horses ; the baggage animals marched in the rear. The
regiments marched in columns of companies at quarter
distance, and were armed with the very old fashioned
flint-lock musket, which by the way looked clean and
bright They all displayed rich standards, blazing with
cloth of gold, and coloured flags with crescent and star
embroidered on them!^ All the men canied a small pack
with a blanket on the top, a small piece of carpet to sit
on, and cooking utensils. As they marched along they
presented a very warlike appearance, the reality of which
was enhanced by the thunder of big guns at Sebastopol,
and the bursting of shells in the air.

During the afternoon, the whole of our division were
employed in building a fence around the burial ground,
and placing a rustic gate at the entrance. We noticed
that generals of divisions and their staff were very active
through the camp, and aides-de-camp galloping to and
fro with orders, seemed to us a sure indication that a
desperate struggle for the capture of Sebastopol was
impending. The French staff, too, were actively em-
ployed, — General Canrobert and staff passed us by on
their way from Lord Raglan's headquarters, where a
council of war had been held by the commanders, but
nothing definite was made known. But from the bustle
and excitement among the staff we anticipated something

880

8EBAST0P0L AGAIN BOMBARDED.

of gpreat importance to take place in th^ neat future
We were not kept long in suspense, for our expectations
were verified on Easter Monday morning, at day-break«
when the whole line of batteries, from left to right, both
French and English, opened fire simultaneously on Sebas*
topol. The instant the firing commenced, the overhang-
ing clouds seemed to have burst with the terrific thunder
of the big guns and mortars, and the rain poured down
in torrents, accompanied by a stifi* breeze of wind. So
thick was the atmosphere that even the flashes of the
guns were scarcely visible, and the gunners must have
fired at guess work part of the time, as it was impossible
to se^ more than a few yards in advance.

A driving sheet of rain, and a Black Sea fog shrouded
the whole camp, which had resumed the miserable aspect
80 well known to us already, tents were blown down, the
mud had already become very deep, and the ground cov-
ered with slush and pools of dirty water. Our batteries
were thundering away continuously in regular salvos, at
the rate of forty shots a minute, but with the down-
pouring rain and fog, it was so very hard work that it
was necessary for the gunners to slacken the fire con-
sidembly.

The Russians were taken completely by surprise, when
our batteries opened such a terrible fire ; and some time
elapsed before their batteries responded.

Lord Baglan. Sir John Campbell and General Jones, aa
wet and drenching as the day was, posted themselves in
their favourite spot at the Green Hill trench, whence

'/ f

QUNS SILENCED BY TBE ALLIES.

881

ihey could get a good view along the whole of the bat-
teries. At five o'clock the sun descended in a dark pall,
which covered the sky, and cast a pale light upon the
masses of curling vapour across the line of batteries
The outlines of the town were faintly visible through
the smoke and rain. It seemed quivering inside the
lines of fire around it. The ground beneath was lit up
by incessant flashes from the guns and mortars, and long
trails of smoke streamed across it, spurting up in thick
volumes tinged with fire. That same evening at sun-
down our regiment furnished 450 men for the trenches.
As we were relieving the 21st and 57th Regiments, the
Russians opened fire with tremendous salvos from their
batteries. Our gunners made excellent practice thpugh,
and soon silenced several of their most troublesome guns,
and at every shot the earth was knocked up out of the
enemy's parapets and embrasures, and guns dismounted.
The French had silenced ten guns on the Flagstaff bat-
tery, and had inflicted heavy damage on their works. On
our side we had silenced half the guns on the Redan and
Malakoff ; but the Barrack and Garden batteries were
not much injured, and kept up a brisk fire against us of
round shot. >

Dm' g the night the firing was very heavy on both
sides ; there was a continual roar of big guns and mor-
tars. We also discharged large quantities of rockets into
the town, and our mortars kept up a steady fire on the
Redan and Garden batteries. During the night, we were
greatly exposed to the enemy's fire, for we were employed

^^.*...;.'^i.A:':y^ -''--■

■i^A

3S2

I AM WOUNDED.

as hard as ever we could work, in patching up embra'
sures, platforms, and mounting big guns ; we had mounted
two guns in the second parallel, broken platforms wera
renewed, and damaged guns replaced by others.

April 13th. At dawn this morning the batteries ou
both sides commenced their terrible duel as usual, and it
was evident that the Russians had wonderfully exerted
themselves to repair damages during the night, for they
had replaced four or five damaged guns, repaired broken
embrasures and injured parapets, and were as ready to
meet our fire as we were to meet theirs. The firing did
not slacken the whole day.

About three o'clock, we were repairing a battery
on the left of the second parallel, when the Russians
opened a fierce fire of shell and round shot ; one of the
latter knocked the head clean off the shoulders of one
man, dashing his brains into Captain O'Connor s face,
and ail over the breast of his tunic. As he was getting
the man's brains washed off his face and clothing, a piece
of shell struck Lieut. Williams, and cut the left eye clean
out of his head.

As I was gazing with horror at the officer's eye hanging
by a shred of flesh down on his cheek, a piece of shell
struck myself on the head, cutting through my forage
cap, and sinking into my skull. This all happened in
less time than I can tell it ; the shelling was fearful. I saw
six shells burst in our trench at one time.

Lieut. Williams and myself, with many others, were, of
course, placed hors de combat for some time after. Thi

■ ■ r '."■

SENT 10 HOSPITAL.

385

doctor dressed our wounds behind the Green ^ill, and
then we were conducted to hospital by a couple of bands-
men. The sailors sujSered severely, although they only
worked about forty guns in the different batteries ; yet
they lost more men in proportion to their number than
any of the other siege trains ; at the time I got wounded
Ihey had then seventy men killed and four wounded.

The sailors in Chapman's battery silenced five of the
best guns in the Redan yesterday ; but the Russians re-
placed them during the night, and opened fire from them
in the morning with a vengeance. The Redan was very
much damaged on the right and front face, four of the
embrasures were knocked level with the inp^e, but the
Russians worked hard repairing their batteries during the
night ; they were so numerous they could spare the men ;
besides they had no shot and shell to carry from a distance
as we had. ' ■

Wherf I arrived at the hospital, the doctor examined
my wound, dressed it, put me to bed, the first I lay on
since I left Gibraltar last year, and the first time I was
ever sick in hospital. The change seemed to me a strange
one — the doctors were so attentive and unremitting in
the care of the sick and wounded men, and so many hos-
pital orderlies waiting on the sick. i

I did not think at the time that I deserved such atten-
tion and kindness as they were bestowing on me ; for I
often had seen a man getting an uglier wound from the
crack of a shillalah at a fair in Ireland, but the doctor
made me believe that the wound was much more severe

■ /

-ji-

384

VIEWING THE SHATTERED FORTRESS.

than I had thought it at first I was surprised to see so
many men in hospital with diarrhoea, dysentery, and a
few with scurvy ; sick and wounded men kept coming in
from the camp and trenches day and night. The worst
cases were to be sent down to Balaklava. I was glad not
to be one of them, for I did not want to go so far from
my old regiment.

After three long weeks of careful medical treatment,
my wound was nearly healed, and soon after I waa dis-
charged from hospital and returned fit for duty once more,
thanks be to God, and recommended for light camp duty
for a few days.

The Weather was clear and beautiful, a gentle breeze
fanned the outspreading streets of canvas tents, for we
had only received two wooden huts for the regiment.
When I joined my company I was anxious to have a good
view of Old Sebastopol once more, and see how it ap-
peared after the storm of shot and shell which I had
heard roaring and bursting during the three weeks which
I had been in hospital. I therefore betook myself to the
top of Cathcart's Hill, on the side of which our camp
rested. On reaching its summit I found the air clear and
bracing, the reports of the big guns and crackling of rifles
were clear and distinct. The white buildings, domes, and
cupolas of the city stood out with menacing distinctness
against the sky, and the suburbs and massive batteries
seemed just the same, and looked equally as strong and
impregnable as when I last saw them three weeks ago.

■;-i,-' .-VM-
S'

r.-.

ARRIVAL OF THE SARDINIANS.

885

The Sardinians wefe visible massing on the hills around
Karanyi. Three steamers had arrived a few days ago
laden with those troops. They landed all ready for the
field, with their transport horses, mules, carts and other
vehicles, they had a very showy but martial appearance,
and every one admired the air and carriage of those
troops.

We could not help noticing the large, gay, plume of
green feathers on the top of their dandy shako. The oflS-
cers wore a plume of green ostrich feathers. When on the
march they carry very small square tents which are up-
held by their lances stuck in the ground, one at each end
of the little tent, the infantry use a stick, and their en-
campment with its flags floating in the air, has a very
military appearance.

June 6th. At three p.m. the whole of our batteries en-
circling Sebastopol, once more, for the third time, opened
a terrible fire on the enemy's works.

The English and French were well prepared in strength
and power — equal to any achievement, and in the best of
spirits, and anxious for a good charge at the Russians
with the bayonet.

Every one felt that the intention of going beyond a vain
bombardment was tolerably plain, and with some strong
defiance of the risk. Before the fire opened Lord Raglan
and GenL Pellisier, with their staff", rode through the
camp, amidst the cheers and acclamations of both armies.
There could have been no doubt as to the zeal of those
brave troops whom they commanded.

■■ > i

386

CAPTURE OF THE MAMELON.

f<; '

Our fire was kept up for four hours with the greatest
rapidity. The superiority of our fire over the enemy
became apparent at various points before night-fall, espe-
cially on the Redan, which was under the special attention
of the sailors* batteries. After dark the fire slackened some-
wliat on both sides, but the same relative advantage was
maintained by our artillery. The fire of our batterieSj
which continued steadily until daybreak, when it assumed
a sudden fury that was kept up until the critical moment
with great activity. The affair itself came off about seven
o'clock p.m., when the head of the French attacking
columns climbed its arduous road to the Mamelon. A
rocket wks thrown up as a signal to our division, and
instantly the small force of our men made a rush at the
Quarries. After a hard hand-to-hand fight we drove out
the Russians, and turned round the gabions and com-
menced to fortify ourselves in our newly acquired posi-
tion. At the same time the French went up the side of
the Mamelon in most beautiful style, like a pack of
hounds trying to rout a fox from his old cover; the
32ouaves were upon the parapet firing down upon the
Russians ; the next moment a fiag was run up as a rally-
ing point, and was seen to sway to and fro, now up, now
down, as the tide of battle raged around it ; and then
like a swarm of bees they -vvont into the Mamelon, when
a fierce hand-to-hand encounter with the bayonet and
musket ensued ; and after a very hard contested battle,
the French succeeded in driving the enemy from the
ACamelon. In the meantime our men fought at the Quar-

, . 1» ■■• •?••■ »,).". ^ 't

DBSPEHATE ClQHTIKG AT THE QriBBIBS. 887

ries, and repelled six successive attacks of the Russians,
who displayed the most singular daring, bravei^/ and
recklessness of life, to obtain possession of the Quarries.
They made repeated attacks during the night on our
men, who defended their new acquisition with the utmost
courage, and at a great sacrifice of life, against superior
numbers continually reinforced. Yet our men maintained
their ground against many fierce attempts to wrest it
from them, and oft repeated hand-to-hand encounters in
the position itself. But the most murderous sortie of the
enemy took place about three o'clock in the morning;
then the whole of the batteries were lit up with a blaze
of fire, and storms of shot and shell were thrown from
the Bedan and other batteries within range. When morn-
ing dawned the position held by both French and Eng-
lish was of the greatest importance. The morning brought
out on every side, along with the perception of advantage
^ned, and a prey lying at our feet, all the haste ai^d
circumstances of the scene, with its painful consequences
of death and suffering. On our side about 400 men and
40 officers were killed and wounded. The French had
1,200 killed and wounded.

Next day flags of truce were hoisted from the Malakoff
and Redan and Flagstaff batteries, which announced that
the Russians requested an armistice to buiy their dead ;~
it was a grave request to make in the midst of a fierce
bombardment, evidently a ruse to gain time, events hang-
ing in the balance, success, perhaps, depending upop the
passing moment ; but it was granted by Lord Raglan, — ^1

■m

388

MALAKOFF AIYD R£Dj^( STRENOTBEKKO.

'^ t

dare not criticise his lordship,— from one o'clock until
six in £he evening, during which lAme no shot %as fired
on either side, while the dead bodies which strewed the
hill in front of the Quarries were moved from the neld ol
slaughter. The corpses which encumbered the earth, and
v^ere in process of removal, gave out faint tokens of com-
ing putrefaction ; fragments of bodies and marks of car-
nage were intersperaed with, as usual, gabions and broken
firelocks. During the five hours' armistice the enemy,
with their wonted perseverance, had been making good
use of their time, which we knew they would ; and when
the firing commenced, which it did instantly the flags
were lowered. A few minutes before six o'clock it was
plain that the Malakoff and Redan had both received re-
inforcements of guns — so much for politeness — ^for the
Russians were most artful in hiding their working parties
during the armistice. We had many men killed and
wounded during the night in our new position, into which
the Russians kept firing grape and canister from their
batteries which flanked the rear of the Redan.

mm.

■..t:

t-':-.

CHAPTER XX.

B03£BARDHBirr — THB ASSAULT — ORBAT RBDAIT — THB BATTLB — BAT.A*
7CLAVA — HOSPITAL — MISS NIOHTINOALB — NURStCS— PROMOTBO —
DISOHAROBD FROM HOSPITAL — DUATH OF LORD RAOLAN.

FTER the contest for the rifle pits and Mameloh, on
the 8th and 9th, a temporaiy lull took place in the
siege operations, which was necessary, in order to make
preparations for a yet more formidable assault on the
Malakoff and Redan, of which the Mamelon and Quarries
were mere advanced works. Therefore, on the morning
of the I7th June, 1855, the batteries of the allied armies
before Sebastopol opened fire from the whole line of
trenches, from left to right. The tremendous roar of big
guns and mortars was terrible. What a pity that this
bombardment had not been kept up until the general as-
sault took place next morning, which Lord Raglan had
intended ; but in order to suit the wishes of General
Pellisier, it was most unfortunate that liis Lordship was
induced to abandon his intention, instea<l of which the
Russians were allowed to strengthen their batteries and
reinforce them with troops owing to the lull in the firing.
By the time the assault was made, they were well pre-
pared to meet us.
June 18th. At 2 o'clock in the raornin?. the 4th division

. /

..' .-

1/ '

^^');-

)

4-"

t.-f

I**

890

THE ASSAULT ON THE RBDAN.

under General Wyndham and Sir John Campbell, consist-
ing of the 17th, 20th, 21st, 57th and 68rd Regimehts, were
marched down to the twenty-one gun battery ; thence by
files through zigzags to the Quarries, ui^er a galling fire of
shot and shell front the Redan, the 17th Regiment leading.
As we reached the Quarries, the men got packed closely
together in such a small space ; and the Russians, having
the exact range, threw the shell right amongst our men,
tearing them to pieces, throwing their legs and arms high
in the air, as we stood there a target for the Russians,
waiting for the two rockets which was the signal firom
the French, when they got into the Malakoff. A shell
struck Sergeant Connel of the Grenadier company, tearing
hira to shreds and throwing one of his legs fifty yards oft*,
which was found afterwards and known by the regimen-
tal number on the sock. That \^g was all of him that could
ever be seen afterwards. Paddy Belton, the th ird manfrom
me, got struck with a shell and torn to pieces, and several
others. We had much better have tried to get into the
Redan, than to stand there in suspense, a target for shell
and shot. The sailors and 20th Regiment were told off to
carry scaling ladders and wool packs ; the latter were
placed on the field as cover for the riflemen, who were
told off to cover the advance of the storming party, firing
at the Russian gunners through the embrasures. As the
ladder party advanced toward the ditch of the Redan,
a storm of grape, canister, rifle bullets and pieces of
old nails and iron, were discharged from the big guns of
f he Redan, besides a cross-fire from the curtains of the

vs '

J* r«

THE ASSAULT ON THE BEDAN.

891

LitUe Redan and Malakoff, causing great alaugliter to the
email parties of sailors and 20th Regiment I saw one of
the ladder carriers knocked down from one end by a shot,
when the weight of the ladder devolved on the other man
who dragged it along the best way he could, till he was
also knocked over. After hard tugging, several had got as
fa): as the abatis, where they had another delay ; for during
the night the Russians had repaired and strengthened
it. This obstructed the advance of the ladder party,
who used the greatest exertions to remove that barrier .
all who were not shot worked through and deposited
their ladders in the ditch of the Redan. Of those who fell
their ladders lay on the ground between the Quarries and
Redan. The. ladders were barely deposited in the ditch
when Lord Raglan gave the order for the advance of the
storming parties, which consisted of the 17th, 21st, 57th
and 63rd Regiments. This small party, led by Sir John
Campbell, were to attack the left side of that immense
and formidable stronghold, the Great Redan.

The light division, led by the gallant Colonel Yea, con-
sisted of the 7th, 23rd, 33rd, 34th, 77th and 88th Regi-
ments, the right side, and the 2nd division the centre or
apex. On the signal being given. Captain John Croker
sang out at the top of his voice, " Grenadiers of the 17th,
advance," when the company bounded over the parapet,
like one man led by theii* captain, followed by the other
companies. When th^ Russians saw us advancing, they
opened such a terrific fire of grape, canister and musketry,
that it was almost impossible for any man to escape being

,•■■';t■^^■

.;,:*■■

'.I > ~

t ■■p

892

DEATH OF SIB JOHN CAMFBEUL

hit. As we advanced up to the abatis, Sir John Campbell
was shot, also my noble captain, John Croker/who was
itruck with a grape shot in the head and fell

LINES ON THE DEATH OF SIR JOHN OAMPBBLL.
' AND CAPTAIN JOHN OROKER.

JVho fell leading the assault on Via (heat Redan^ Jv,ne ISthf 1865,,

Ye Grenadiers ! who fear no foe, and sooff at death,
Full well I know, that to.your dying breath
You'll fight like warriors, or like heroes fall,
So now obey your Queen and country's call.

To cqush those Russians with relentless hand,
And scale their ramparts like a gallant band,
Let John Campbell's orders be our guide,
We'll fight fjknd conquer by that hero's side.

Nor will we humble to the Russian bear ;
While God is with us we need never fear ;
Grasp your swords for victory's glorious crown,
And share with none those deeds of high renown.

The warriors brave around John Croker stood,
Within the Quarries ready to shed their blood ;
^ While our noble Captain on the signal given,

Cries, Grenadiers, advance ! trust your fate to heaveo.

Stung with desire we raised the battle-cry,
And rushed well forward to win the fight or die,
Our Captain waved high his sword, and then
Onward he dashed, followed by all his gallant men.

Who with one loud hurrah, the silence broke.

And charged like Britons through fire and smoko j ^

A moment more, the bloody struggle came.

With roar of cannon and with flash and flame.

.-''.- \ >*.

''.f! (* f

:, / '■ *

DIATH OF CAPTAIN CfROKIH.

893

While piled in ghaetly heftpi brave loldiers U7,
Filling the trenohee with their dead that day, '^

Oroker'a voice was heard above the battle din, *

Leading his company through deadly slaughter then.

Until at last the fatal bullet riven,
Laid our hero low, and sent his soul to heaven ; ^^

Deep was the grief and sorrow at his loss we bore.
As the noble chieftain lay weltering in his gore.

While round his ghastly corpse we bravely tried
To quell the sweeping torrent, the rushing tide
That rushed upon us with a resistless fire,
And levelled our heroes in heaps, there to expire.

But few escaped of the forlorn band.
Of that ohivalrio company Orooker did command :
But those who did stuck by their leader still.
And laid his corpse to rest on Oathcart's Hill.

T. Fauohnav.

It this time, if the commander had supported us, we
wc old have taken the Redan ; but the few men who were
sent out were shot down. Scarcely a man advanced
as far as the Redan but got either killed or wounded. I
got shot through the right arm, fracturing the bone. As I
was coming back, covered with blood, for the wound was
severe, I saw a man named John Dwyer, who got struck
with a grape-shot in the thigh. He said to me, " Oh, Faugh-
nan, I am kilt intirely." He, had scarcely spoken when a
round shot struck him again and put an end to his suf-
ferings. I was conducted to the ravine, at the Woron-
zoff road by a drummer, where the doctors and hospital
orderlies were in their shirt-sleeves^ hard at work, ampu-

r'.r?

804

BOTAL IBI8B Rl SIMEKT.

'Ji

• ' I

tatiug legs uid anns, and binding up woundi ; it was
fearfal to see all the legs and arms lying aroiind. After
the doctor stopped the blood with a patent bandage, he
dressed my wound, and sent me tc hospital on an ambu-
lance waggon with twelve other wounded men. During the
assault on the Redan and Malakoff, the third division, un-
der General Eyre, consisting of the 9th, 18th, 28th, 38th
and 44th Regiments, with a company of picked marksmen,
under Major Fielden, of the 44th regiment, wero pushed
forward to feel the way, and cover the advance. At the
signal for the general assault, the 18th Royal Irish, being
the storming party, rushed at the cemetery, and got poss-
ession, 'dislodging the Russians with a small loss ; but the
moment the Russians retired, the batteries opened a heavy
fire on them, from the barrack and Garden batteries.

The 18th at once rushed out of the cemetery towards
the town, and succeed in getting into some houses ; Cap-
tain Hay man was gallantly leading his company when
he was shot. Once in the houses, they prepared to defend
themselves. Meantime the enemy did their utmost to blow
down the houses with shot, shell, grape and canister ; but
the men kept close though they lost many men. They
entered the houses about six oclock in the morning,
and could not leave them until eight o'clock in the even-
ing. The enemy at last blew up many of the houses, and
set fire to others. When our men rushed out of them the
fire was now spreading all over. The 9th also effected a
lodgment in some houses, and held their possession as well
as the 18th. Why were these men not supported by lar^e

•mk

AH ARMISTICI aiAHTKD.

896

, »

bodies of troops, so as to take the enemy on the flank, and
move round behind the Redan ? Whose fault was it ? Not
the men's ! Whose fault was it that the Redan was not
breached by round shot, and the abatis swept away before
the assault was made ? Not the men's I Whose faulb was it
that large supports were not pushed forward to the Redan,
en the assault being made ? Not the men's 1 Nothing
can be compared to the bravery, daring and courage of the
officers and soldiers of the British army, when they are
brought properly into action ; but when a handful of men
are sent to take a stronghold like the Redan, armed as it
was with all sorts of destructive missiles, and manned by
an immense force, it could not be expected that men
could do impossibilities. An armistice to bury the dead
was granted by the Russians and at 4 o'clock in the after-
noon of the 19th, white flags were hoisted on the Redan
and Mnlakoff, and in an instant afterwards burying par-
ties of the French and English emerged from the trenches
and commenced to carry off their dead and bury them in
rear of the trenches, all in one grave, and in their clothes
as they lay, except the officers, who were taken to camp,
and buried at Cathcart's Hill. Many wounded men were
found close to the abatis, who were Ijdng there thirty-six
hours in their blood-stained clothes, in the scorching sun,
without a drop of water to quench their thirst Several
had crawled away during the night, and hundreds had
died of their wounds as they lay. ^ter the burial was
over, the white flags were lowered and firing commenced
againr once more. As the ambulance waggons moved along

, tr

;,>«i
<...«

r'; i/.iS

"<'?!

•■V^ ..

896

HOSPITAL AT BALAKLAVA.

the Woi'oiijsoff road towards the hospitals, I could not
help regrettinjj our loss in officers and men, more especi-
ally Captain John Croker. He was a very strict officer, but
a very kind t;entleman ; that is, he expected every man to
do his duty faithfully and zealously, and beyond that, he
was indulgent, generous, and always anxious for the com-
fort, happiness and amusement of his company. A better,
braver, or more dignified and gentlemanly officer, a khider
friend than Captain John Croker was not in the service,
nor one more precise, more exacting, more awake to the
slightest professional neglect of duty ; and his loss to the
grenadier company, I am sure, will be deeply and sorely
felt ; lie was a native of the County Limerick. On arrival
at the hospital the doctor examined my wound, and found
that the bone was fractured. He then set it after taking
out three splinters, dressed it, put it in a splint, gave mo
a glass of brandy, and put me to bed. The hospital was
getting so crowded I was one of a party of wounded men
who were sent down to Balaklava hospital on mules, next
day at ten o'clock. The number sent down from the divi-
sions was two hundred : each mule carried two patients ;
we sat back to back. On arrival at Balaklava hospital
we were told off to comfortable huts, each containing
beds or cots. The wounded men were separated from the
others ; those very severely wounded were put to bed,
and at dinner time one of Miss Nightingale's ladies
came round, and spoke kindly to us, and examined our
wounds, which we appreciated very much ; and at tea
time the same lady brought us arrowroot and port

could not
lore especi-
officer, but
^ery man to
tnd that, he
or the com-
T, A better,
er, a kinder
the service,
rake to the
\ loss to the
and sorely
On arrival
1, and found
ifter taking
it, gave mc
ospital was
unded men
mules, next
►m the divi-
o patients ;
a hospital
contain! Dg
d from the
ut to bed,
le's ladies
mined our
,nd at tea
and port

.'fc.J.-

.■>;•.

■K:,

398

UNBEMITTINO EXERTIONS OV THE NUBSES.

wine. Next morning the doctor dressed our wounds,
and the lady brought us all sorts of delicacies. How
different to the camp rations of salt junk and hard
tack ; and now we had a real lady to nurse us and attend
to our wants. I thought that it was worth getting
wounded to have such attendance. Nothing could sur-
pass the kindness and attention which those ladies showed
the wounded men ; each of them had a certain number of
patients under her care ; and truly their kindness and
unremitting exertions did more good to alleviate the pain
and suffering of the wounded men than all the doctors'
medicine. The weather was so very hot that my arm
began to swell, so that the doctor got alarmed and con-^
suited another doctor, when they decided to amputate my
arm. I did not like the idea of losing my arm, but the
doctors thought the swelling would get into my body ;
so when the nurse came round with the arrowroot in the
evening, after she had washed and dressed my wound, she
advised me not to have my arm taken off, but to go down
to a spring that gushed from a rock at the foot of the hill,
and there hold the wound under the stream as long as I
could bear it, every day. I did as she told me. I then
told the doctor that I would not have my arm taken off.
I sat at the spring all day, except at meal times, and held
my arm under the cold water that rushed out of the rock,
and at the end of a week the swelling reduced. Frofii
that time it began to get better ; I was in good health and
was allowed to walk round the hills during the day. The
head surgeon, Dr. Jephson, allowed us every privilege,

^'SV

W^-'

I <

I AM AGAIN CX)NYALESCENT.

S99

ftnd our nurse brought us note paper, envelopes and post-
age stamps so that we could write home to our Mends.
The invalids were allowed to roam around the rocks all
day between meal times. The hospital, which had been
recently established, afforded great comfort to our sick
and wounded men, who were saved the evils of a sea voy«
age to Scutari. It already presents the appearance of a
little village with small patches of gardens in front of the
huts ; and its position on those heights, among the rocks,
overhanging the sea and deep crags, which wind up past
the old Genoese tower that stands at the entrance of the
Balaklava harbour, to the height of our camp over the
sea, is strikingly picturesque. The judicious surgical
treatment of my arm, and the careful manner in which
the doctor's directions were carried out by our nurse, to-
i^ether with holding it under the stream of cold spring
water, soon restored it to use again ; several other men
whose wounds were very severe were fast improving un-
der this lady's care. Her assiduity and skill as a nurse,
as well as the gentle kindness of her manner, fully war'
ranted the greatest respect from her patients, who almost
idolized her, whose presence in the hut stilled the pain of
the wounded men. We often wondered whether she ever
blept as she seemed to be always attending one or another
of her charge. Miss Nightingale had returned to Balaklava
from Scutari a few days ago, so I had the gratification of
seeing that heroic lady, whose honoured name is often
mentioned among the soldiers of the British Army with
the most profound respect — that high, bom lady, Floreno*

. -^i

. (

400

HISS FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE.

I ^

Nightingale, the sick and wounded soldier's friend, whose
name will be handed down to future generations, as the
greatest heroine of her sex, who left her happy home
with all the genial associations, comforts and social at-
tractions which her birth, education and accomplishments
so well enable her to appreciate ; going out to a country
wherein every turn spoke of war and slaughter ; taking
up her abode in an hospital containing none of her own
sex save those noble ladies who accompanied her as
nurses ; watching and tending the sick from morning till
night, among hundreds of wounded, sick, emaciated and
hungry soldiers. All these things considered, there has
indeed rarely, if ever, been such an example of heroic
daring combined with feminine gentleness. Although
there is a heroism in charging an enemy on the heights of
Inkerman, in defiance of deatli and all mortal opposition,
worthy of all praise and honour, yet the quiet sympathy,
thl^ largeness of her religious heart, and her wondrous
powers of cor^solation, will ever be remembered with the
love, thankfulness and affection of the soldiers of the
British army, and by no one more than T. Faughnan.

LINES TO MISS FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE.

M-

At the Crimean war thy life was new ;
Ton left your home, and country too,
To tend the wounded with hands so fair,
To Balaklava hospital you did repair.

I AM PBOMOTED.

Miss Florence Nightingale, for yon is given
The soldier's prayer to God in Heaven,
That you may soar to Him above,
For your noble valour and Christian love.

If angels are here on earth below,
You must be one of them we know ;
For flesh and blood can not compare,
Such genuine valour and angelic care

As you displayed, without one thought
Of the sleepless nights on you it brought ;
May God His blessings on you descend.
Is a soldier's prayer whom you did befriend.

When you this earthly race have run,
May Angels lead you to the Son,
There to sing with Christ for evermore,
Whom here, on earth, you ever did adore.

401

I •

T. Fauqhnam,

After it was ascertained at the regiment that I was not
killed, as was reported, but only wounded, and in hospi-
tal at Balaklava, the commanding officer had me promo-
ted to full corporal, and my promotion dated back from
the first of April previous, which left me three months'
back pay to draw. This news reached me a few days
before I was discharged from hospital. On the 20th of
August, I was discharged from hospital, and once more
proceeded to join my regiment in camp. After thanking
the Sisters for all their kindness and attention to me
while under their charge, I bade them all good-bye, and
started to the front with six others.

'j^J

";il»^-.

402

DEATH OF LORD RAGLAK.

*•■

1 1.

On arrival at camp, the first I met was Major Gordon,
who was very glad to see me. He said to n;ie, • Faugh-
nan, we all thought you were killed that morning. I am
sorry I did not know that you were only wounded before
I sent off the returns ; I would have recoui mended you
for the Victoria Cross — but it cannot be helped now, as I
have recommended Corporal John Smith for it.*' I
thanked him very kindly, and joined my company, who
were all well pleased to see me.

There is a sad feeling among the officers and soldiers
in camp, and deep regret evinced at the loss of Lord
Raglan, who departed this life at nine o'clock p.m., the
28th * June, 1855. His death appears to have at once
stilled every feeling but that of respect for his memory ;
and the remembrance of the many long years he faith-
fully and untiringly served his country ; and his frequent
cheering visits among the men in camp, had endeared him
to the army now before Sebastopol. A military proces-
sion was formed at four o'clock in the afternoon of the
3rd of July, to escort the body to Kazatch Bay. As
many as could be spared from duty in the trenches and,
with safety to the camp, from every infantry regiment,
foimed an avenue from the British to the French head-
quarters, and from thence to Kazatch Bay, where the
Caradoc was ready to receive her melancholy freight
The French troops formed a similar avenue. The cav^aii;'
and batteries of artillery were formed up behind the lines
of infantry, and bands were stationed at intervals, and
played the Dead March as the procession moved slowly

V%"

■■■m

THE FUNERAL PROCESSIOIT.

408

along the route marked out by the line of infantry, The
coffin was carried on a gun carriage — the soldier's hearse.
At each side rode the four commanders of the allied
armies ; then followed all the generals and officers who
could be spared from trench duty. As the solemn proces-
sion moved along, minute guns were fired by the ^eld
artillery of the French. At Kazatch Bay, marines and
sailors were formed upon the wharf ; the naval officers
were in attendance ; and the body of Lord Raglan was
placed on board of Her Majesty's Ship Caradoc, and
removed from that battle-field where both his body and
mind had sufi'ered fur the lust nine months, and where
many hundreds of gallant officers lie in their gore and
glory, waiting for the sound of the last trumpet to come
forth.

t-,.:f^,%»gK.

CHAPTER XXI.

OAPTiilN OOVLTHURST— SIEGE — BOMBAKDMENT — ASSAULT— REDAW—
THE BATTLE — 8XH SBPTEMBEB— THE BVAOUATION — BUS6IAK8—
BRITISH IN SEBA8T0P0L.

UGUST 25th. Captain Coulthurst arrived at camp
with a draft of three hundred men, who were
posted to the different companies, to fill up the va-
cancies left by those who fell in battle, or died in hos-
pital, or camp, during the winter. During the month of
July and August our loss in the trenches was very heavy
although the achievements were not such as brought great
fame and honour to the hard-working army. The outworks
had approached so near the Russan batteries that our
trenches afforded very insufficient shelter from shot, shell,
and rifle bullets, which killed and wounded so many of our
working parties, swelling the list of dead and wounded
very much every twenty-four hours. Every thing was
now reported ready by the engineers and artillery offi-
cers for one last and desperate assault on the fortifications.
The labour bestowed by the Kuss" iii:; to strengthen the
Redan and MalakofFwas almost inconceivable — a formid-
able abatis of sharpened stakes in front, a parapet thirty
feet high, ditch twenty feet deep by twenty-four feet wide,
with three tiers of heavy guns and mortars rising on<^

; ;

ASSAULT ON THE MALA^OFF.

405

— EUSBIANS—

red at camp
who were
up the va-
ied in hos-
le month of
very heavy
•ought great
he outworks
3s that our
n shot, shell,
many of our
id wounded
thing waa
rtillery offi-
ortificatioiis.
enffthen the
1 — a formid-
Tapet thirty
ur feet wide,
rising onv

above another. Such was the Malakoff and Redan. The
plan of assault was, a vigorous fire to open on the enemy's
batteries, by the Allies, on the 5th, 6th, and 7th : followed
on the 8th of September, 1855, by a storming of the
Malakoff by the French, and of the Redan by the British.
Generals Pellisier and Simpson arranged that at dawn, on
the 8th. the French storming columns were to leave the
trenches, the British to storm the Redan ; the tricoUr flag
planted on the Malakoff was to be the signal that the
French had triumphed and the British were then to storm
the Redan, for unless the Malakoff was captured first, the
Redan could not be held, as the former was the key of the
position, therefore the Malakofi" should be attacked first
and with a very strong force.

Appalling in its severity was the final bombardment of
Sebastopol. It began at day-break as previously arranged
by the commanders, the shot and shell shaking the very
ground with the tremendous reverberations, raising clouds
of earth and overturning batteries along the Russian
lines, filling the air with vivid gleams and sparks, and
trains of fire, burying the horizon in dense clouds of smoke
and vapour, and carrying death and destruction into the
lieart of, and all over the city. After three hours of this
tremendous fire, the gunners ceased for a while to cool
their guns and rest themselves ; then resumed with such
effect that the Russian earth-works became awfully cut
up, without, however, exhibiting any actual gaps or
breaches, which would have befallen stone batteries, under
such a storm of shot and shell, proving the defensive
power of earth-works. Darkness did not stay this devas-

iP^^ti.^»^'*:.

■VtA^dJi:. ^'fmi rt>v<»t. »».„ ««■•<

'■ \

40G

THE MIGHT BEFORE THE BATTLE.

* s

fcation ; shell and shot continued to whistle through the air,
tnarking o!it a line of light to show their flight, and crash-
ing Hnd bursting against the defences and buildings. The
Malakofl' and Redan, when no longer visible in daylight,
were brought out into vivid relief by the bursting of shells
and the flashes of guns. One of the ships in the harbour
caught fire from a shell, and was burnt to the water's edge.
All through the night fire continued, which prevented
the Russians from repairing their parapets and embrasures,
and with dawn on the 6th, the ro&r of cannon was only
interrupted by a few intervals to cool thfi guns. The en-
emy seeing that the hour of peril had arrive 1, used almost
superhuman exertions to work their batteries ; increased
agitation was visible among them, and seven's I movements
seemed to indicate the removal from the south to the
north side of the harbour of all such persons and valuables
as would not be required to render assistance in the de-
fence. Again did a night of intermittent fire ensue. On
the 7th another ship was burnt in the harbour by our
shells ; flames broke out in the town, and a loud explosion
like that of a magazine took place in the evening.

THE NIGHT BEFORE THE BATTLE 8th SEPT., 1855.

To-morrow, comrade, we

At the Great Redan must be,
There to conquer or both lie low *

The morning star is up,

But there's wine still in the cup
And we'll take another tot, ere we go, boys, go.
And we'll take another tot, ere we go.

«^.

THE FBENCH STORMIKQ PARTY, 407

Tit tnie, in warrion* eyei
Sometimes a tear will riie,

When we think of our friends left; a» home.
But what can wailing do,
Sure our goblet's weeping too,

With its tears we'll chase away our own, boys, our owil|
With its tears we'll chase away our own.

The morning may be bright ; *'

But this may be the last night

That we shall ever pass together ;
The next night where shall we
And our gallant comrades be 7

But— no matter — grasp thy sword, and away, boys, away.

No matter — grasp thy sword, and away.

Let those who brook the lot
Of the Russian great despot,

Like cowards at home they may stay ;
Cheers for our Queen be given.
While our souls we trust to heaven,

Then, for Britain and our Queen, boys, hurra ! hurra ! hurra !

Then, for Britain and our Queen, buys, hurra !

Thos. Fauohnan.

On the morning of the 8th, a destructive and pitiless
storm of shot and shell continued until noon, when the
BVench issued forth, preceded by riflemen and sappers
and miners. The French had bridges as substitutes for
ladders ; the ditch was crossed by the bridges, and the
parapet scaled with surprising celerity. Then commenced
the struggle, with guns, rifles, pistols, swords, bayonets,
and gun-rammers ; but in a quarter of an hour the tri-

408

CAPTURE OF THE MALAKOFF.

: -»

color flag floated on the Malakofl*, announcing that the
formidable position was taken.

Although the French had captured it, the Russians so
weU knew its value, it being the key to the whole position,
that they made furious attempts at recapture. Bui the
French General judiciously sent powerful reserves to the
' support of McMahon, and those reserves maintained a
series of desperate battles against the Russians within
the Malakoff, bayonet against bayonet, musket againnt
musket, man against man. The contest continued foi
several hours ; but the French triumphed, and drove the
Russians from their stronghold,

Anything more wildly disorderly than the interior ol
the Malakoff can hardly be imagined. The earth had
been torn up by the explosion of shells, and every foot of
the ground became a frightful scene of bloody struggles ;
thousands of dead and wounded men being heaped up
within this one fort alone. As soon as the tricolor was
seen floating on the Malakofl; two rockets gave the signal
for the British columns to storm the Redan. Out rushed
the storming party, preceded by the ladder and covering
party, a mere handful altogether ; indeed it appears as-
* tonishing that so few should have been told off for so
great a work ; every soldier had a perilous duty assigned
him. The riflemen were to cover the advance of the lad-
der party, by shooting down the gunners at the embra-
sures of the Redan ; the ladder party to place the ladders
in the ditch. As soon as the storming party rushed from
the Quarries, the guns of the Redan opened a fiorcp

\ "

ASSAULT ON THE RKDAN.

409

issians 80

tire on them, nw coping them down as they advanced.
Col. Unett, of the 19tli Regiment, was one of the first
ofHcers that fell, and Brigadiers Von Straubenzie and
Shirley were both wounded, and scarcely an officer, who
advanced with the storming party, but got either killed
or wounded. The distance from the Redan to the
Quarries was too great, being over two hundred yards,
which gave the enemy a good opportunity to mow the .
storming party down with a tremendous fire of grape,
canister and musketry. The survivors advanced and
reached the abatis, the pointed stakes of which, standing
outward, presented a formidable obstacle to further pro-
gress ; however, the men made gaps through which they
crawled. Then came another rush to the ditch, when
the ladders were found to be too short. However, our
men scrambled down, and climbed up, many falling all
the time under the shot of the enemy. Officers and men
were emulous for the honour of being among the first to
enter this formidable battery ; but alas, too weak in the
numbers necessary for such an enterprise. Mounting to
the parapet, the besiegers saw the interior of the Redan
before them filled with masses of soldiers, and powerful
ranges of guns and mortars ; wild and bloody was the
scene within the assailed 'fort. Colonel Wyndham (after-
wards Sir Charles) was the first officer to enter ; and when
fairly within the parapet, he and the other officers and
men did all they could to dislodge the Russians from be-
hind the traverse and breast-works ; but the Russians
overpowered our handful of men that were sent to take

• V

THE TROOPS RETIRE TO THE TRENCHES.

411

that stronghold, for we had no support to back up those
that got a foothold in the Redan. The Russians continued
bringing up reinforcements, and soon overpowered the
few British, who saw they must either retire or remain to
be shot down. New supporting parties kept arriving in
such driblets, and in such confusion as to render impossible
any well-directed charge against the place. If, for a time,
a few men were collected in a body, volleys of musketry,
grape, canister, and old pieces of iron of every description,
fired from their big guns, levelled our men to the dust.
The officers and men at last, seeing no siipports coming
to their aid, lost heart and retreated to their trenches.

The embrasures of the parapets, the ditch, and all
round the abatis became a harrowing scene of death and
wounds ; heaps of dead and wounded lay all round the
Redan, and piles of them lay at the bottom of the ditch,
where they fell by the Russian shot, as they climbed up
the scaling ladders. At two o'clock the attack was over,
and in these two hours the British loss was very severe.
No other day throughout the war recorded so many killed
and wounded, which amounted to the large number of
2450 in all. The French loss was three times more severe,
it comprised no less than 7550 killed and wounded.

Next day another attack was to be made on the Redan.
Sir Colin Campbell sent down a party cautiously in the
night to see how the Redan was occupied ; it was found
to bo vacated, telling plainly of the abandonment, by the
Russians of the south side of the town. It appears that
Qortchakotf, when the impossibility of maintainini^ hi

f..^-'-f.Sill-St»^ ■■■ ■--'-■^'*-

412

BUSSIANS EVACUATR SEBASTOPOL.

f/^r

position became evident, commenced blowing up the
public buildings of the town ; the gunners, during the
early hours of the night, kept up a sufficient fire to mask
their proceedings in the stillness of the night when the
allied camps were filled with men, either sleeping or
thinking anxiously of the scenes which day-light might
bring forth. Lurid flames began to rise in Sebastopol ;
explosions of great violence shook the earth, and intense
commotion was visible to the men in the trenches. The
fires began in various parts of the town, and tremendous
explosions behind the Redan tore up the ground for a
great distance ; and other explosions succeeded so rapidly
that a thick, murky mass of smoke and flames from
burning buildings imparted an awful grandeur to the
scene. Now came a resistless outburst which blew up
the Flagstaff" battery ; then another blew up the Garden
battery. As day-light approached. Fort Paul, Fort Nicho-
las Central, and Quarantine Bastion, were seen surrounded
by flames. We could not withhold our admiration of the
manner in which Gortchakoff" carried out his desperate
plan, the last available means of saving the rest of the
garrison.

On the morning of the 9th September, when the troops
in camp heard the announcement that the mighty city
had fallen, the city which, during twelve months, had,
day by day, been looked at and studied by our g<)nera]s
and engineers, and in front of which 10,000 of our troops
had been killed or wounded on the preceding day, — ^with
difliculty was the announcement credited, so accustomed

■Iv

PRECAUTION ABT MEASURES OF THE COMMANDERS. 413

had all been to the daghing of their hopes and the non-
fulfilment of their predictions. I was one among many
who hastened into the town, and was astonished at the
enormous extent of the batteries, and tiie manner in
which our shot and shell had knocked down and torn up
the massive buildings. The French soldiers rushed into
the town, peered about the burning houses, and plundered
them of chairs, tables, looking-glasses, and countless
articles, and carried them off to their camp. The French
soldiers always kept a bright look-out for plunder. I must •
say that our men did not touch a single article, that I
ever heard of, except one man, who found a lot of money
in a bank. He emptied it into his haversack, and left
at once. The bank clerks, in their excitement and hurry,
must have forgotten to take the money in their haste to
get out of the city. We had a chain of cavalry all round
the town, to keep back stragglers, and stop any person
from taking anything out of the town. Thus ended the
wondrous Siege of Sebastopol. On the 8th of September,
when the allied commanders found that the Russian gar-
rison, together with inhabitants, had crossed to the north
side of the harbour, it became their duty to ascertain
whether any traps or explosive mines had been laid by
the enemy, before our troops could be allowed to occupy
the town, to ward off camp-followers, and to divide the
spoils of the garrison between the two invading armies ;
and to take measures for the destruction of the forts and
docks.
The appearance of the town, at the time that we en<

'■ I

■S \

A*.,' ■

,'; V.'^"!V:'iil6(»;ii;i.'M' 'k:i.*.:i.ti«A» 'i*'iii'

•>Uvi..j^»i,afmj-!-Mi.tfKM^ '

414

BEBASTOPOL IN BUINS.

tared it, was fearful indeed. Destructive forces had been
ragiilg with a violence never before equalled in the history
3f bieges ; and the whole internal area was one vast heap
ot crumbled earth-work, shattered masonry, shot-pierced
buildings, torn-up streets, scorched timbers, broken guns
and muskets, and shattered vehicles. The buildings were
shattered into forms truly fantastic ; some of the lower
stories almost shot away, and barely able to support the
superstructure ; some with enormous gaps in the walls.
Proofs were manifold that the Russians intended to de-
fend the town street by street, had we forced an entrance,
for across every street were constructed barricades de-
fended by field pieces. In some of the best houses col-
umns were broken by shot, ceilings falling, which these
columns had once supported ; elegant furniture crushed
beneath broken cornices, beams, and fragments of broken
looking-glasses, mingledwith the dust on the marble fioors.
The effect of our 13-inch shells had been extraordinary.
These dread missiles, of which so many thousand had been
thrown into the town, weigh 200 pounds each and falling
from a great height, have the weight of over sixty tons,
descending deep below the foundation of the houses, and
when they explode, scattering everything around far and
wide. Our army still continued to encamp outside the
town, sending only as many troops as would suffice to
guard it, and take up the principal buildings among the
ruins for guard-houses. Now we have plenty of wood, each
company sending a fatigue party daily from the camp to
Scbastopol for it. These parties could be seen by tbf

>K.' ■■*

INACrriVITY OP THE ABMT.

416

.1 1-

Russians from the north side pulling down houses for the
wood and carrying it to camp. While doing so the Rus-
sians invariably fired upon us, from the north side of the
harbour, where they had thrown up very strong forts,
armed with the heaviest guns. They had placed some of
those guns with the breech sunk into the ground, in order
to get elevation, and throw shot right into our camp
amongst our tents, not iinf requently killing and wounding
our men.

We had regular guards and sentries all over Sebastopol.
After posting a sentry one day, I happened to go down
some steps which led to the basement of a large building,
and there I found, to my horror, fifteen dead Russians.
My sense of smell first detected them in the dark vault ;
they were in the worst state of putrefaction. It was
found, on removing them, that they all had been wounded,
and had crawled in there and died from their wounds.
We buried them where thousands of their comrades were
buried, in rear of the Redan. The army was then quiet
— no firing except an odd shot from the Russians at our
fatigue parties in Sebastopol. We had no trench duty to
perform— nothing but the regular camp guards ; we had
plenty of fuel and good rations ; any amount of canteens
on the ground, so we were making up in mmfort for the
hard times we had last winter. The army was now at a
standstill, havihg nothing to occupy their time.

But the commanders began to look forward to a second
wintering in the Crimea as a probability. Invaluable as

,-.'i,.*^.H.jeHf»:t ••io.it.v.

416

BOAD-MAKINO THE ORDER OF THE DAT.

fcf,,

the railway had become, it was inadequate to the eon-
yeyahce of the immense bulk and weight of supplies re-
quired day by day in the army, and hen je it was necessary
to do that which, if done in the early pact of last winter,
would have saved so many valuable lives — to oonstruct
a new road from Balaklava to the camp. Therefore the
road was laid out and large numbers of our men worked
on it daily ; but making roads is but child's play com-
pared with making trenches under shot, shell, grape and
canister. The whole of the divisions were kept continu>
ally at road-making ; the road promised to be a splendid
one, and we were all anxious to make ik We had no less
than 10,000 men working on this road, between Balaklava
and the front. By the end of October a most excellent
road was constructed, including branch roads to the seve-
ral divisions. The French at the same time constructed

' a road across the valley which connects their camp with
the main road to Kamiesch ; and besides tliey have im*
proved the old Tartar roads.

Our army suffered much last winter from a want of
roads. This excellent road which the British army has
constructed, will ever remain as a memento of British

' occupation. During the three weeks in September which
followed the evacuation of the south side of Sebastopol«
the Russians were quietly but actively strengthening
their fortifications on the north side, ihaking all the
heights bristle with guns, and firing a shot whenever an
opportunity ofiered to work mischief upon 'om* guards,
sentries and fatigue-parties in the town. We had planted

^'''^!^^,

DISTRIBUTION OF THE MEDALS.

417

[le con-
)lie8 re-
jcesaary
winter,
onstruct
if ore the
worked
lay corn-
rape and
continu-
splendid
^ no less
3alaklava
excellent
the seve-
nstructed
amp with
lave im*

a few gtins in position so as to bear on the northern
heights ; but no disposition was shown to open a regular
fire on them, except an odd shot to remind them that we
were ready for them at any time.

Gamp rumours arose concerning some supposed expe-
dition into the interior of the Crimea, but the securing of
the captured city was regarded as the first duty.

On the 20th September, 1855, the anniversary of the
battle of the Alma, a distribution of the medals for the
Crimea, and clasps for Alma, Balaklava and Inkerman,
took place among the troops, those decorations were very
much appreciated by the officers and men. The dt.y was
comroomorated with much festivity and amusement in
both camps.

'■*a

% want of
army has
of British
ber which
ebastopolt
ngthening
ig all tihe
lenever an
r guards,
bd planted

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I ^ \^'^fv -■ ^^-rt^-^

r\ "f^' ■ •

^Tr~ •■ f

CHAPTER XXII.

eXPEDITIOX TO KINBURN— THE VOYAOK— ODESSA— LANDTNa—CITT-
TINO TUBNOHES — BOMBARDMENT— THE WHITE FLAG— (CAPITULATION
— THE PRISONERS— RECONNAISSANCE— THE MARCH — VILLAGE- -
BIVOUAC — MARCH— A VILLAGE — PIGS AND GEESE — DEPARTURE—
THE FLEET — RETURN — SIR W. CODRINOTON — RUSSIAN SPY.

N expedition to Kinburn having been decided unon
by the allies, on the 6th of October a squadron ol
H. M. fleet were in readiness at Kamiesch Bay to convRv
the 17th, 20th, 21st, 57th, and 63rd Regiments, togethei
with marines, artillery, and engineers, under the command
of General Spencer. As we marched to Kamiesch Bay
the morning was close and sultry. When we got a third
of the way private Henratty fell out of the ranks and re-
ported himself sick, when Captain Smith calls out, " Cor-
poral Faughnan, take Henratty back to hospital." '* Yes,
sir," said I, we were then niarching down a very steep
hill. I marched back to the hospital, although I was
b^dly able, for I was bad with dysentery myself at the
time, and for upwards of two weeks previously, and was
80 weak that I could scarcely march ; but I did not wish
to give in and be left behind. After I gave over the sick
man, I saw the regiment a long way off in the valley. I
inarched as fast as I was able with a f^ kit. In the

;i ^r

■ N*a

WE CAST AKCHOR OFF ODESSA.

419

(JAPITULi^TION
H — VILLAGE- -
.DBPARTUftB—
N SPY.

iecided unon
, squadron ol
i,y to convB7
bts, togethei
he command
imiesch Bay
e got a third
anks and re-
Is out, " Cor-
)ital." "Yes,
a very steep
.hough I was
nyself at the
asly, and was
did not wish
over the sick
he valley. I
kit. In th«

afternoon rain commenced to drizzle, and the regiment
halted to cloak. I then gained on them and soon overtook
them. When we halted at the beach I could have fallen
down from weakness and exhaustion, but I kept up my
pluck and never gave in. The troops were embarked on
board the fleet by small steam-tenders ; the 17th Regi-
ment had the honour of being convened to Kinburn by
the flag-ship Royjal Albert.

On the 7th October, the troops having been on board,
and everything ready, we set sail accompanied by several
line-of-battle ships, small steamers, gun-boats, mortar-
vessels, and three French floating batteries, constituting
an armament of great magnitude. The English squadron
comprised six steam line-of-battle ships, seventeen steam
frigates, ten gun-boats, six mortar-vessels, three steam
tenders and ten transports. The Russians north of Sebas-
topol were in wild excitement when this large squadron
appeared ; but the ships soon disappeared from the Crimea^

The admiral signaled to the several captains to rendez-
vous off Odessa. As we got out to sea the bands discoursed
music while the officers were at dinner ; before dinner
they played as usual " The Roast Beef of Old England,"
which we had not heard for many months before.

We had no hammocks, so we were obliged to lay all
round the decks in groups during the night. At eight
o'clock next morning we cast anchor off Odessa, three
miles from the town. It was then the turn for the dti-
Eens to be alarmed by this display of force.

The Russians on the heights, in barrack square and all

' . ' :!l

.*. ' j

.1«.^

. '.1 ■%£%. Mfcm » v.. < I** <*.«*,«.>«. ^ «

420

ARKIVE OFF KIKBURM.

[/ '

round the city became incessantly active in making ob-
sen^'ations. We could see tlie old-fashioned telegraph on
the towers along the coast working, and clouds of Cos-
sacks, infantry and artillery, formed up along the cliffo,
ready to defend the place if attacked. All day on the
8th, the fleet remained at anchor, about 80 French and
English vessels forming a line six miles in length, eagerly
watched from the cliffa by large masses of troops. The
rocket-boats, gun-boats, inortar-vessels, and floating bat-
teries might have gone nearer and crumbled the city to
ruins ; but such was not our orders, and not a shot was
fire^ and thus was Odessa spared for the third time
during the war.

The object of the admirals in making this feint on
Odessa was to draw the Russian troops away from Kin*
burn, thereby reducing the number of troops in that
garrison.

The 10th and 11th we were still at anchor, dense fogs
giving the seamen a foretaste of the dangers of that coast;
and as the 12th aud 13th were very stormy, the admirals
would not risk leaving until the weather moderated ;
thus it happened that ihe citizens had the threatening
fleet in view for six days. The squadrons weighed anchor
on the morning of the 14th, and cast anchor off Kinbum
that afternoon ; in the evening some of the French and
English gun-boats entered the estuary of the Dnieper,
passing the Fort of Kinbum under a heavy fire from the
enemy.

On the morning of the 15th the troops were landed

,i 1

MODE OF LANDING THE TROOPS.

421

along the beach out of range of the fort, by the launchef
of the ships, each being filled with soldiers, and made
fast to each ether by means of the painter After the
troops were all got into the launches, they formed several
long lines of red coats in little boats — each boat was
steered by a naval officer.

The front boat of the line being made fast to a small
steamer, the whole were then towed in front of the beach
where we were to land. As the steamer ran in towards
the shore, she cast off the line of boats, and while they
were under weigh each let go the painter and headed
towards the beach, running in close on a sandy bottom,
when the troops jumped ashore and deployed from where
we landed to the River Dnieper, while the gun-boats went
up the river. By this double manoeuvre the Russians
were prevented from receiving reinforcements by sea,
while the garrison was cut off by land. In the evening
the mortar vessels began to try their range on the forts.

The troops brought no tents, and only three days' ra-
tions. After posting outlying pickets, we were set to
work cutting a trench from the sea, where we landed, to
the River Dnieper, a distance of five miles. While we were
digging the trench during the day, the outlying pickets
had a skirmish with a small force of Cossacks ; but the
chief labour was the landing of stores and artillery, tedious
and dangerous work over the rough surf, occasioning the
swamping of some of the boats. A camp was formed,
but without tents. At two o'clock in the morning we
had the trench cut and manned ready to receive th«

■M

,;%

IV ft .

422

BOMBARDMENT OF KINBURN.

Russian roinforcoments for the garrisoD, which were ex-
pected from Odessa, but which did not come. However, a
large force of Cossacks came along at three o'clock in the
morning, when we opened a heavy lire upon them from
our new trench, forcing them to retire quicker than they
came, we then kept a good look out till morning. Generals
Spencer and fiazaino made a cavalry reconnaissance at
day-break, when the Cossacks retired altogether.

About four companies of the French and English
marksmen were placed under cover at a distance of four
hundred yards in rear of the fort, and kept up a fusilade
on the Russian gunners ; while at the same time the
aHillery opened a strong fire on the fort ; at nine o'clock
the ships opened fire on the garrison.

The Royal Albert, Algiers, Agamemnon, and Princess
Royal, and four ships of the line approached abreast of the
principal fort; the Tribune &ndSpkinx attacked the earth-
work battery. The Hannibal, Dauntless and Terrible took
position opposite the battery near the end of the fort, while
the smaller vessels directed their attack on the oa\>t and
centre of the fort. Thus the Russians from the shape and
position of the fort, were attacked on all sides at once.
Each ship poured its broadside upon the fort and the strand
batteries as it passed, and received the enemy's fire in re-
turn. From nine o'clock until noon these powerful vessels
maintained their terrible fire against the forts, crashing the
parapets and disabling the guns, while the mortar vessels
mi fir^j to the buildings within the for^ The Arrow and

r*i

'vCv fA'.

CAPITULATION OP THE TOWN

489

ZjfnaJ with others, were exposed to much' danger. Hav-
ing taki 11 up a position cIoro to the batteries to discharge
their 8h< II npr>n the fort, thoy received in return an iron
torrent which tried the rtsohiLion of the crew.

At twelve o'clock 'the Russians hoisted a white flag,
when an English and a French officer met the Governor
at the entrance of the fort, when he tendered his suiTender
in military form by giving up his sword, but not without
bitter tears and a passionate exclamation expressive of
wounded national and professional honour. The officers
bore the scene with dignity, but with deep mortification,
and many of them were on the verge of mutiny against
the Governor, so strong did they resist any proposals of
surrender. The garrison laid down their arms, and were
marched outside the town and placed close to our camp,
with a chain of our sentries and the French around them.
The number of prisoners taken was 1,560 besides 500
killed and wounded ; several of our doctors were sent to
attend their wounded in the fort.

The prisoners were divided, the English half were taken
on board the Vulcan, while the other half were taken on
board the French ships. The prisoners having been
sent off to Constantinople, the captors proceeded to gar-
rison Kinburn, repairing and increasing the defences,
clearing away the ruins, repairing the walls and embra-
sures, replacing the damaged cannon by large ship guns,
deepening the ditch, reforming the palisades, strengthen'
ing the p§,rapets, restoring the casemates, completing
efficient barracks and magazines in the interior of the

'/i

424

ACZAKOFF ABAKDONED.

fort and depositing a large amount of military storei of
all kinds.

When the small garrison, the other side of the estuary,
opposite Kinburn, Aczakoff, found that their guns could
effect little against the invaders, and that Kinburn was
forced to j'ield, they blew up the St Nicholas batterj", on
the morning of the 18th, and retired a few hours after-
wards. On the 20th Generals Spencer and Bazaine set
out on a reconnaissance with several regiments of both
forces about five thousand strong. After marching on a
sandy plain, like a desert, ten miles, we halted close to a
village, piled arms, and were allowed to go foraging into
the village, which we found deserted by the inhabitants ;
but they left abundance of pigs, geese, fowls, and provi-
sions, bread baking in the ovens, pails of milk and seve-
ral other most useful articles, besides in the gardens we
found abundance of potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes, pumpkins
and almost all sorts of vegetables. We divided the town
with the French : after tearing down several houses for
' fuel and making camp-fires, we commenced cooking fowls,
V turkeys, geese, potatoes, cabbages and vegetables; while
others were off through the village killing pigs, geese,
turkeys, and chickens, others cutting down branches of
trees from a wood hard by, for the purpose of making
huts to protect us for the niajht, as We had no tents and
covering them with hay from the hay-yards, and shaking
plenty of hay inside to lie on ; every mess erected one of
those huts. After indulging in the good things, which I
can assure you we enjoyed, we laid down very comfort-

GOOD THINGS GALOBK

426

bores of

estuary,
OS could
iirn was
btery, on
irs af ter-
zaine set
i of both
ling on a
close to a
ging into
abitants ;
,nd provi-
and seve-
irdens we
)umpkin8
the town
ouses for
ing fowls,
es; while
38, geese,
anches of
►f making
tents and
i shaking
,ed one of
I, which I
comfort-

ably for the night in the hay,' and slept most soundly.
Next day at two o'clock General Spencer reviewed the
troops under his command, with the French General and
his soldiers looking on. We were to have the pleasure of
another night in this camp. After enjoying boiled fowls,
roast turkeys and plenty of fresh vegetables, we lay down
among the hay and slept well, thanks be to God. Next
morning, after breakfast, we marched to another village
named Rooskey, ten miles off. We halted outside the vil-
lage, and sent in foraging parties from each regiment,
dividing the town with the French, and placing a line of
sentries in the centre. As we approached the village the
people fled, leaving everything behind, pigs, geese, ducks,
fowls, bread, milk and butter. As we killed the live stock,
we placed them on the commissariat waggons and brought
the spoils to the camp. It was a most amusing scene,
the French and English officers and soldiers shooting
geese, ducks and hens, with their revolvers, and the men
chasing the pigs and stabbing them with their bayonets.
A soldier catches a pig by the hind leg, the animal drags
him into the French lines, when a French soldier claims
the animal, and a kind of a good natured quarrel ensues
about the ownership of the pig. The geese rose in flocks,
and the officers had the greatest sport shooting them.
Those were jolly times. After ransacking the town we
set fire to it, and marched back to our old bivouac, ten
miles distant. /

After arriving at our old camp ground, lo and behold !
our huts wero all demolished, ftnd not » thing left on the

K^i^ "'M"=

^; i ■

426

WE BETUBy TO THE CBIHEA.

ground. The Cossacks had been there during our absence,
and burned and destroyed everything. We could sae
them away in the distance, about 400 strong watcbix^j^
our movements ; however, we bivouacked there as best
we could that night. As we marched back, we pajse4
several wind-mills, which we set fire to. Next momiii,^^
we marched to Einbum with the commissariat wsiggons
loaded with pigs, geese, fowls, turkeys, potatoes, and cab-
bage, which were served out as rations in the usur)
manner.

On tbe 20th of October, Generals Speucer and Bazain^
begap their arrangements for our departure, first shipping
all the stores, guns and horses, and selecting a sufBcient
number of troops to garrison and guard Kinbum during'
the winter ; but to bring away all the other forces. Sir
Edmund Lyons and the French Admiral selected the
vessels which were to be left to protect the place fron
any Russian attack across the estuary. On the morning
of the 29th, the troops embarked on boar4 the fleet from
the wharf at Kinburn.

The 17th Regiment was conveyed to the Crimea, by
the Terrible. It was a most imposing spectacle, this mag-
nificent fleet sailing in line with the two flag ships lead-
ing and signalling their orders to the captains of the other
ships ; the line extended over ten miles. What must the
Russians along the coast think of this immense arma-
ment ? The fleet cast anchor in Kamiesch Bay, on the 1st
of November ; and the troops disembarked at once, and
marched to our old camp on Cathcart's Hill.

'\...f!^

SOL W. J. CODRINOTON.

'4*7

This expedition did the troops more good than all the
medicine in the hospital could have done. I was a new
man when I got back. If Henratty had braved it out as
I did, and had come on with the expedition, he might

have been well, instead of which he was still in hos-
pital. The change of air and fresh vegetables worked
wonders in restoring and invigorating the men's health.
On our return to camp, we found that a quantity of rum
which was left behind, with other regimental stores, in
charge of a sergeant and twelve men, was all gone ; foi
which the sergeant was tried and reduced, and the pri-
vates sev^c' ly punished.

During ? « lonth of November we had another change
in the command of the army, the appointment of General
i^r W. J. Codrington, vice General Simpson. The appoint-
ment of Sir William was very popular with the army, and
brought increased activity among the troops.

Among other improvements, which were made to meet
the wants of the army, was a large reservoir in the ravine
between the second light and.the 4th divisions, in the
construction of which the French took a prominent part.
This reservoir was capable of supplying three divisions
of the British and three of the French with abundance of
good spring water during winter and summer. Every-
thing seems to have been done to protect and meet the
vrants of the army during the coming winter. Almost
eveiy kind of supplies was in abundance, and the army
in the best of health and spirits.

I was in command of a divisional guard, near ToLer-

( .

■'■•-I'A ,■>?-.

ni'.".

<;»>f*

428-

A SUCCESSFUL PEDESTRIAN FEAT.

Vf. .

naya valley, when a Russian spy was given in my charge
by a cavalry reconriaiaaance party. I immediately post-
ed a sentry to take charge of this prisoner ; but he watched
his opportunity and slipped out under the fly of the tent.
The sentry gave the alarm, when I rushed out after him,
calling a file of the guard to follow me. As I gave him
chase, I threw off my accoutrements, in order to give me
more freedom ; he had then about one hundred and fifty
yards start of me, and was barefooted, while I had heavy
boots on ; however, I gave him chase. We had run about
two miles when I saw that I was gaining on him, and I
kept gaining little by little, for about five miles, when I
came Hip behind him. I was then nearly out of breath ;
I kept close behind him a good while till I got my wind,
then I threw my foot before him with the Connaught
touch, and pitched him on his face ; then I jumped on
him and held him, keeping him down lest he might over-
power me if he got up, as he was a most powerful man,
and the file of the guard had not come up to us yet. While
I gave him an odd kick, he begged for mercy, which I
granted, and marched the Tartar back, meeting the file
of the guard as I was returning. If I had let that spy
escape, I would have been tried by a court-martial ; but
my Irish experience in running, before I joined the ser-
vice, stood to me then ; I would have run after him into
the Russian camp before I would have lost him. When
I got back to the tent, I tied him to the pole with a guy
rope, at the same time tying his hands behind his back.
I was determined that he should not get away again.

BlSLLIOfiltENTS TARE A REST.

429

The camp followers and speculators lufA got so num-
erous that they had a large bazaar formed in the rear of
the 4th division. Large shops of almost every descriptioh,
saloons, billiard tables, restaurants, hotels, groceries, tobac-
conists, wholesale and retail liquor stores, and, in fact, al-
most everything that could be got in any town, could be
had there for cash. There was another large bazaar in
the French camp. As we assembled in Smith & Go's liquor
store of an evening, diinking " Guiness's bottled stout,"
smoking our pipe or cigar with the greatest of comfort,
wo could but contrast our position with that of this time
last year when the inclement weather commenced. The
want of food, forage, huts, clothing, fuel, medicine, roads,
vehicles, and horses, proved its tragic results. Men lay
down in the mire to die of despair, and no commanding
officer could tell how many of his poor soldiers i^ould be
available for duty next day. But now, towards the close
of 1855, we had every kind of supply in abundance,
thanks to the people of England ! The army was well fed
and well clothed, and we were looking out for some
active operations against the enemy. The Russians con-
tinued to fortify the northern heights without firing a
shot, and we occupied the south quietly, without dis-
turbing them. How long this will last will be seen in
the next chapter.

c :h

" x

\::

,. ;%ii

'■**1

•>>.^v^i

CHAPTER XXni.

kftMISTICB — CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES — ^SXOHANOE Or COINS — HKfB
TO FEENOH IMPERIAL THRONE — TREATY OF PEACE — INVITATIONS —
GRAND RRVIEW — REMOVAL OF THE ARMY — EMBARKATION — THE
VOYAGE — SHIP ON FIRE — ^ARRIVAL AT MALTA — JOIN. THE RESERVE
BATTALION — PROCEED TO ALEXANDRIA— THE VOYAGE — ARRIVAL-
VISIT PLACES OF RENOWN — VISIT CAIRO — THE NILE — ARETVAl—
TH^ CITY — BAZAARS.

T the end of February, 1856, the diplomatists at
Paris agreed upon an armistice during the discus-
sion of a treaty of peace. The immediate effect was ob-
servable in the Crimea, as soon as the several com-
manders had received information. On the morning of
the 1st March, a white flag was hoisted on the Tchernaya
bridge, and near it assembled the Russian commander, a
staff of officers, and a troop of Cossacks. The English
commander with his staff, accompanied by others from
the French and Sardinians, descended across the valley to
the bridge where they met the Russians with whom they
discussed the details of an armistice. The cessation of
hostilities was to last one month, during the consideration
of the treaty. Through the aid of their interpreters they
decided that the Tchernaya river was to be the boundary

;..-i'-i!

r^^.^v,

':tv.

filRTH OiF THE PRIKCE IMPERIAL,

between the opposing armies. The quietei^t month spent
by the allied armies in the Crimea, was the mouth of
March, 1856. Hostilities were entirely stopped, and yet
none could say whether they might not commence again
with all their horrors. The diplomatists at Paris had one
month to decide the question of peace or war.

The commandei-s, while maintaining their boundary
arrangement, did not prohibit friendly meetings of the
opposing armies on their respective banks of the boundary
line, where the officers and soldiers frequently assembled
to look at each other in peace and try to converse in a
friendly manner across the stream, when the exchange
of coins and other small articles or mementos took place
and an interchange of civilities such as " bono Johnny,"'
" bono Francais," " bono Roos," beside other compliment-
ary • expressions. The intercourse was kept up during;
the month of the armistice. For the rest, the operations*
of the month differed little from those of the camp at'
Aldershot, all the divisions being exercised and reviewed!
in the open spots all round the camp. Sometimes the
Russians held their reviews on the same day that we did,
with the glittering bayonets of each in full view of the
other, and both alike safe in the conviction that no un-
friendly shot would disturb the pageant.

On the 23rd of this month, festivities in the Fi'ench
camp celebrated the birth of an heir to the French im-
perial throne ; bonfiref were kindled, guns fired, reviews
held, horse-racing on the banks of the Tchemaya, healths
drunk by the French and their allies, even the Kussiaot

y s

^2 FRIENDLY INTERCOURSE BETWEEN THE ARMIE&

participated in the rejoicings, for they lighted fires all
aloi\g their lines. \

April brought with it the treaty of peace. Before the
hour had arrived when the armistice would have expired,
news was received that the treaty had been signed at
Paris. When peace was proclaimed, an interchange of
invitations took place between the Russian army and the
allies. The Russian soldiers came over to our camp, in
small parties at a time, and we did the same to their
camp, each party in charge of a non-commissioned officer.
I and twelve privates visited the Russian camp and their
bazaar, which we found much the same as our own. All
sorts of English goods were sold there, even "Bass's
bottled ale," and " Guiness's porter," at a dollar a bottle.
Their bread was as black as your boot; the coffee-houses
were crowded with English, French and Russian soldiers,
drinking, singing and dancing ; and the interchange of
any amount of " bono Johnny," " bono Roos," and " bono
Francais," trying to make each other believe that they
were great friends. .

On the 17th April, the British and French troops had
a grand review on the heights near St. George's Monas-
tery (at which General Luders, the Russian commander,
with his brilliant staff, was present). They were formed up
in line of continuous quarter distancecolumnsof battalions,
when the commanders of the different armies with their
gorgeous retinue of staff and cavalry officers rode along
the line, with the bands of each regiment playing in suc-
oession ; after which they marched past the grand assem-

LIAYIKG THE CRIMEA.

43S

blag« of commanders and staff, in quick time, each regi'
ment marching past in grand division style, with \\jk band
playing in front. General Luders returned deeply im-
pressed with the appearance of the allied armies, and ex-
pressed himself much gratified at the attention shown him
by the allied forces. Duties of a more serious character,
however, now demanded the attention of the Generals.
Large armies were to be removed from the Crimea, and
vast stores of provisions and ammunition besides all the
round shot the Russians had fired at us during the siege,
which we had gathered and carried on our back to the rail-
way depSt for shipment to England, with all the commissa-
riat stores brought down from each divisional dep6t at the
front where they had been collected in such immense quan-
tities. Day after day, during the summer months, did the
various regiments leave the Crimea, some for Malta, others
for the Ionian Islands, the West Indies, or Canada, but the
greater part for England. All the camp equipage and storei
for each regiment had to be brought into transport order,
and everything brought to Balaklava for shipment!

About the 10th of May, the 17th Regiment marched
from their old camp on Cathcart's Hill, and embarked at
Balaklava at two o'clock in the afternoon, on board the
steam transport Sir Robert Low. At 3 ;; m. we moved
slowly between the rocks which overhang the narrow
entrance to the harbour. We were all on deck with tears
in our eyes, taking a last sad look towards " Cathcart's
Hill " where we had left so many noble comrades behind
in that cold, desolate plateau, so far away from friends and

'■'-:<!

J 'U

■i-i\

-*\l.

/•'^

484

ratE ON BOARD SHIP.

relatives ; those thoughts filled us with sadnen, Ai out
ship glided through the heautif ul calm, blue waters of the
Euxine, the land laded from our view. We then ' 'imed
our thoughts homewards, after giving thanks to Qod for
■' the great mercy he had shewn in bringing us safely
through all the death struggles and hardships which our
brave troops had suffered ; and now that we were return-
ing alive we had every reason to be thankful.

The weather being tine we made the passage across the
Black Sea in 4S hours. The second day, at 2 p. m. we
passed the old fortress of Riva, which commands the
3n trance to the Bosphorus, passing Constantinople at
3 o'clock, taking a last look at that strange old city, with
its picturesque sights, the tall minarets and the blue
waters of the Bospliorus catching the golden light as the
sun dipped behind the distant hills. We rounded Ser-
aglio point and steamed down. the Marmora, passing the
Seven Towers on our right, and slowly the beautiful city
Taded from our view forever. We had a smooth passage
stcross the Sea of Marmora. Next morning at ten o'clock,
we passed Gallipoli. On the 14th May, at 9 o'clock in
the evening as our sliip was running at the rate of ten
knots an hour, an alarm of fire came from the cook's
galley. Tho ^roops were immediately formed up along the
decks, and the pumps manned. After a quarter of an
hour's hard work we mastered the fire and put it out,
but not before it had burned a large hole in the ship's
deck and destroyed the galley. We had in truth a narrow
>>scape, the fire nearly getting the better of us. On the

.'■•il

•ll'

A PERFECT MILITIBT UOT-HOUB&

48S

Al OUT

)TB of the
in 'irned
J God for
us safely
^hich our
re return-
across the
I p. m. we
aands the
tinople at
city, with
the blue
ight as the
nded Ser-
)assing the
,utiful city
th passage
,en o'clock,
o'clock in
rate of ten
the cook's
) along the
mrter of an
,ut it out,
the ships
a narrow
Is. On tb«

morning of the 17th May we arrived at Malta, when we
received orders to proceed to Quebec. The regimeuc
being over the strength of non-commissioned officers
those who had families at home got the preference of re-
maining behind, and joining the reserve battalion at
Malta. I was. one of the latter ; after bidding good-bye
to the old re^^iment, with tears in my eyes, I disembarked
with twelve others and joined the reserve battalion. The
regiment proceeding: to Canada next morning at 8 o'clock,
and we, after landing, were quartered in Strada Reale
Barracks.

The garrison was at this time filled with the soldiers of
more than one nation, and ihe medley of tongues was
rather bewildering to the ears, as was the diversity of
costume to the eyes. There was the Italian and German
Legions promenading the street in their gay uniforms,
Malta fencibles, English artillery and infantry. The
large number of soldiers in such a small place made it a
perfectly military hot-house.

The Strada Reale, with its lazy moving crowds and
singular architecture, was soon entered. Lights were
beginning to brighten the shop-widows and streets ; oc-
casionally sparkling from the numerous bay-windows
above ; but though the night was appiroaching, the air,
deeply impregnated with the fumes of tobacco and odour
of garlic, was close and suffocating, more especially from
the intense heat exhaled from the arid rock, which had all
day blazed. under a fierce sun. The barracks were so
crowded, and the weather so hot, that the doctor ordered
the 17th under ottnvas at St. Francis* Gamp. An order

■%l

'•""■"-■W'J

fW'y:

'mm^M^

BOUND FOR ALBXAinmiA.

1 •

detailed yxmr humble servant, Corporal Fan^hnan, Id
pi'uceed on June 6th, by one of the Peiynaular and
Oriental Company's steamers, to Alexandria, there to take
over some marine invalids according to written instrucr
tions, and take charge of them to Malta.

Jun» 6th. At nine o'clock a.m., I embarked on board the
steamer for Alexandria. As we passed out of the harbour
at 0.30, the sky was blue and pleasant, the air balmy and
clear. The island, like a blue cloud in the distance, faded
away, and again the trackless waste of waters stretched
like a boundless expanse around us.

June 9th. It is now three days since we left Malta.
We should have been in harbour to-day, but have been re-
tarded somewhat by head winds.

June 10th. Expecting to enter port this morning, I
was early on deck. We were already in sight of land.
As we neared the coast, one of the first things that
caught my attention was the number of windmills stand-
ing upon an eminence along the shore; at first they remind-
ed me of a line of soldiers in skirmishing order, but as we
neared them they lifted their tall, circular forms, and
stretched out their sheeted arms, like huge sentinels keep-
ing watch along the coast. The entrance to the harbour
is a tortuous and difficult one ; vessels cannot get in by
night or by day without a very experienced pilot. Wo
were straining our ej^es to catch the first glimpse of the
strange land, and there, just upon that projecting pohit
of land, we are now passinij, where you see an insignificant
light-house, stood a faiiiuus and costly tower, bearing, up •

'. t r-

cm Of ILKXANDRIA.

43?

IT and
to take

DStrUCr

»ard the
barbour
my and
;e, faded
bretcbed

b Malta,
been re-

oo ita top, as it lifted its colossal fonn aboye tha waves,
a beacon-liffht to guide the mariner to his haven. It
in said to have been so lofty it could be seen one hundred
miles at sea — which, of course, is a mistake. The gigantic
tower of white marble wan erected by the old Egyptian
kings three hundred years before the birth of Christ. It
was one of the ** Seven wonders of the world.' But heri
we are safe at our, moorings. How strange ever/thirg
looks. There are the hulks of a nnmber of great old sh:^js,
rotting away and falling to pieces into the water. . They
were once the Viceroy's fleet. The flags of many nat^on^
float from the masts arovnd us. There is a boat ap
proaching with a Union Jack flying and manned with
blue- jackets.

After landing the passengers, we had to pass through
the Custom House. A liveried servant, in Turkish cos-
tume, guarding the door, politely bowed us through, and
we stood before the receiver of customs. He wore a rich
Turkish costume, a magnificent turban on his head, a gold-
hilted sword by his side ; he addressed us n> Tnglish and
called all our names from a list ; as we answered we passed
on. No other questions were asked ; personal baggage is
seldom examined at this port. We had ijcarcely passed the
door before we were surrounded by a crowd of donkey-
boys in blue shirts and red fe;^ caps. They began pulling
and snatching at our baggage for the privilege of taking
it to a hotel. Luckily, an omnibus — a European innova
tion — ^from the very hotel we had selected, stood at the
tntrance, and we made a sudden dash into it A cr%ck

''■:k,

,-7,

4S8

CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE.

of the driver's whip, and we were whirling through the
dirty narrow streets of the Turkish quarter of the city ;
we soon emerged into the English part of the town, and
9. magical change came over the scene ; a fine open square,
}mamented with fountains and surrounded with beauti-
ful stone houses presented a most inviting appearance.
A. runner from the hotel conducted me to the marine
Hospital, when I presented the order for the invalids to
return with me to Malta when the surgeon informed me
that two of the men had had a relapse, and could not be
removed for some time. This gave me a good opportunity
to visit several of the renowned localities, places of an-
tiqui'ty, and monumental records, that the ravages of war
and the wreck of time have failed to obliterate. During
the voyage I had made the acquaintance of two French-
men, and after I got back to the hotel they were pleased
when I tola them that I would have to stop at Alexandria
for some time, and did not know how long ; they could
speak [English pretty well, and we got quite familiar.
The hotel was kept by a Frenchman, and the business
of the hotel was conducted on the European plan. The
floors and walls were constantly crumbling, scattering
sand and lime upon clothes and furniture, and aflfording
plenty of hiding places for bugs and fleas. Of the presence
of the latter we had a too strong demonstration, but fleas
in Egypt are as common as sand on the sea shore, and we
made up our minds to pay the tribute of blood demanded
by those pests, with the resignation of martyrs.

We next visited Cleopatra's needle, since removed to
London. Of these remarkable obelisks there aro two

'" \'-,

t tISit tut CAtACOMBS.

43d

)earance.

just within the walls and near the sea shore at the north-
east angle of the city — one is standing, the other has fallen
down and is now nearly buried in the ground. They are
of the same material as Pompey's Pillar, red granite from
the quarries of upper Egypt. These two obelisks stood
about seventy paces apart ; the fallen one lies close to
the pedestal ; its length, in its mutilated state, is sixty-
six feet, and was given, many years ago, by Mahommed
Ali to the British Government, who have lately brought
it home. The standing one is about seventy feet high,
seven feet seven inches in diameter at the base, and taper-
ing towards the top about five feet. ^

Next day we visited the Catacombs, which are about
three miles outside the city ; the Frenchmen hired a guide
and we all rode on donkeys. The grounds near the en-
trance were once covered with costly habitations, and
beautiful gardens. The vast extent of these underground
tenements, their architecture, symmetry, and beauty ; the
more wonderful from the fact that they are all chiselled
out of the solid rock, must excite the greatest wonder and
admiration. In these tombs, generation after generation
have laid their dead ; Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans
and Saracens, have, no doubt, in turn used them, and differ-
ent nations have here blended in the common dust, at least
such is the common opinion. Ancient Alexandria, with all
her magnificence and splendour, is now nothing but heaps
of ruins. The modern city stands upon the ruins of the
past — well may we .say the ^eat, immortal past. An Egyp-
tian city at ni;;ht is a gioo^uy place, business suspended.

440

▼isrr TO CAiiiO.

tthops all closed, no amusements, no meetings, no win*
dov(^ next the street to shed even a little light upon the
gloomy alleys ; all is involved in Egyptian darkness, but
silence is not there, for dogs are among the wondrous
speakers of this land. They howl about in packs like
wolves, owning no master, making night hideous with
their row and lights ; in addition to this, the watchman's
yell ran through the city every quarter of an hour ; it
woke me more than the guns before Sebastopol ; a calm of
fifteen minutes succeeds, and again the lengthened shout
assures the citizens " all is well." Being disturbed by the
watchman's cfeU, howling of dogs, bugs and fleas, we could
not sleep, so we were up early and had breakfast at seven
o'clock, after which we all agreed to visit Cairo, and at
once proceeded to the railway station, which, by the way,
has only been lately constructed. The present facilities
for reaching Cairo can only be appreciated by those who
have been familiar with the former slow locomotion of ca-
nal and river. Then it was by the toilsome process of wind
and oars. Now a first-class railroad of about one hun-
dred miles connects the cities. At ten a.m. the signal
was given, and we struck out into the great delta of the
Nile; away to the 1 ft is the harbour of Aboukir, where
tiie immortal Nelson with his fleet met the French in
1798. His victory was complete; all the French ships,
except two were captured, and the victor was rewarded
with the title, " Baron Nelson of the Nile."

The immense green plain stretcbcd out each side of us at
far as the eye could reach. Crops of some kind are raibed s'l

>-,«^

cAiuo IS rria

441

win*
pon the
ess, but
jndrous
ks like
LIS with
chman's
lour; it

1 calm of
}d shout
3 by the
we could
at seven
, and at
the way,
facilities
lOse who
on of ca-

of wind

fne hun-

e signal

of the

where

'rench m

;h shipS)

ewarded

tb« y«ar round, except when th» soil is covered with water
from the inundation of the Nile. There is no cold weather
to prevent the growth of vegetables. Look out of the
carriage window ; do you see that long line of water just
by the side of us ? It is the Nile. The Nile ! The fam-
ous Nile, that has a place in history with the Euphrates
and the Jordan ; for thousands of years sending out a liv-
ing flood from its mysterious and hidden sources, rolling
onward through this great valley, and emptying itself, by
its seven mouths, into the blue sea ; a river which the
Egyptians worshipped, and whose waters, by the rod oi
Moses were turned into blood.

About 5 p.m. our train came to a halt in the station of
Grand Cairo. We landed on the platform amid the
strangest crowd of human beings I had ever seen congre-
gated. There was the Turkish official, with his gi*eat
loose sleeves and flowing robes, gold-hilted sword, and
turbaned head, loathsome looking beggars, wretched
women, and squalid children. As we emerged from the
station, a hotel porter, in English costume, addressed ufl
in English, " Shepherd's hotel, sir ? Omnibus just here, all
right I ** and in fifteen minutes we were in a good Euro-
pean hotel built in the oriental style, with a large open
court and pleasure-grounds; terms only two dollars a day.
After tea, which was ready on our arrival at the hotel, we
took a walk through the city. The streets are numerous,
narrow and crooked, there being but one in the business
part of the town wide enough for a carriage ;' this public
thoroughfare being only about 85 feet wide, many of the

M ,'

K v!

■\

'••V,

..rv.

44S

A TUBKISn GBANDEE.

othen are not more than ten feet. The upper storieB of
the houses projecting over the lower ones, ^d the large
prominent windows projecting still beyond the houses; the
windows of the upper stories are brought so near together
you could easily step from one to the other. The bazaai-s
are very busy places, and are thronged by a mixed and
motley multitude of people, camels, horses, donkeys, men,
women and children, mingled together in strange con-
fusion, while the noise and bustle present a wild and
striking scene that can be nowhere witnessed but in an
Arabic city. Amid this wild confusion may be seen a
great variety of oriental costumes. But the turbaned
heads ^predominate, the black of the Copt, the blue-black
of the Jew, the green and white of the Moslem are min-
gled in strange variety. There moves a lordly Turk, with
loose sleeves and flowing robes, with all the solemn dig-
nity of his nation ; the grandee, with his rich flowing
robes of silk and lace, loose breeches, white stockings and
yellow slippers ; the swarthy-skinned, half-naked fellah,
the bare-faced, half-dressed, toil-worn country woman
with tattoed lips and eye-brows, and by her side the dig-
nified lady with long, close veil, red trousers, long yellew
boots, and dress of richly-embroidered cloth. These ladies
ride astride of donkeys ; the ample folds of their long
veils and loose robes almost hide the little animal from
view.

X-

?,!^-S^^:3i

(

>-'P

'^'"\
•■■•'''t

":i

CHAPTER XXIV.

niE FntAMIDS— CROSSING THE MLB — ISLAND OV BODA— IRK Of
BULRUSHES— VI8IT CHEOPS— HELIOPOUS — PALACE OF SHOOBRA—
PALM GROVES— THE CITADEL— JOSEPH'S WELL — DERVISHES — RB<
TURK.

FTER hirtng three donkeys to take us to the pyra-
^jlj: mids, next morning at eight o'clock, we retired to
rest and slept much better than we did the night before *
the live stock were not quite so numerous as they were in
the last hotel. We were up bright and early, had break-
fast at seven o'clock, after which we mounted our donkeys
and were soon in sight of Old Cairo, a town on the banks
of the Nile,foundod upon the site of the old Egyptian Baby-
lon ; it is much older than Grand Cairo. Here are the
ruins of the old Roman fortress, besieged and taken by
the Turks. The solid walls and high towers are yet
standing, on the front of which may still be seen the
Roman eagle. This fortress has now become a Christiaji
town, and is dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of
the Copts. There are also three convents here, one is
occupied by the Roman, Armenian amd Syrian Maronites,
another by the Copts, a third by the Greeks. In this
Greek Ccoivent it is said that the Virgin and the Blesiiied

>^^--'-

rv ■

444

IBLAyB Of BODA.

Child JesnB had their abode during their sojourn in
Egypt; here, too, are ancient structures md to have
been built by Joseph, and used for treasure houses, in
which com was stored for the days of famine. In aix
upper chamber over one of the towers is an ancient Christ-
ian record sculptured on wood in the time of Diocletian.
It is well preserved and of curious device ; belOw is a re-
presentation of the Deity sitting on a globe supported by
two angels, on either side of which is a procession of six
figures representing the twelve apostles. Just on the
opposite bank lies Gizeh, from which the pyramids are
named, with a ferry at the upper end of the town. As
we aJ)proached the ferry, we were surprised at the num-
ber of people who thronged the landing-place ; numerous
boats of all sizes were waiting for freight ; donkeys and
their riders, camels with their huge burdens; ragged men
and women, were mingled together — antique-looking
boats in strange confusion. After securing a ferry-boit
we gave the boatman an extra sixpenco each to land us
for a short time upon the beautiful little island of Roda,
whose grassy banks and shady groves have long been the
resort of pleasure parties from Cairo. On this island stands
the celebrated Nilometer ; this is a square chamber built
of. stone, in the centre of which is a graduated stone pil-
lar: By a scale on this pillar the daily rise of the Nile is
ascertained ; this is proclaimed every day during the in-
undation in the streets of Cairo. By this island, also,
tradition fixes the place where a daughter of Levi, under
the pressure of that cruel decree, took an ark of bulrushes

I'Simirmi

THI FTRAMID6 OF EOTFT.

445

davbing^ it with slime and pitch, and put the child therein
and laid it in the flags by the river's brink. At this island,
the faithful sister, Miriam, half concealed among the
banks, watched with anxious solicitude the fate of hex
Infant brother, kre these the waters that went rippling
by the ark of tht- infant Moses, and over which he after-
wards stretched his miraculous rod, transforming them
into a torrent of blood ? Oh Scripture, how wonderful
thou art in thy story. Landing from the boat, we were
in Gizeh, an old town, the miserable wreck of what it
once was in the days of the Mamelukes. Passing along
these streets, large quantities of oranges, dates and other
fruits with bread and vegetables were exposed for sale.
We bought some of these things and had some lunch ;
after a half hours rest we started again, we had now
about four miles to make across the open plain, the huge
pyramids all the time in sight ; we passed three Arab
villages on our way. The appearance of indolence and
poverty is everywhere apparent. A dozen ferocious dogs,
with bristling hair and savage howl, were sure to herald
our approach. As we emerged from the last village the
gray forms of those great sepulchral monuments lay just
before us ; their huge proportions seemed rapidly to in-
crease as we neared them. They stand upon a rocky
eminence, their base elevated one hundred and fifty feet
above the plain just at the foot of the range of hills, be-
hind which lies the vast ocean ot sands constituting the
great Lybian desert
The ride was over, and we stood in amazement at the

.-->-<!

IV* r

A /-

440

WE EXAMINE TBE ANCIENT WONDEB.

base of Cheops. There are five groups of these pyramids,
Qumbering in all about 40. They ^tend u;^ and down
the valley for ten or twelve miles ; most of them have
such gigantic proportions as to justly entitle them to a
place among the wonders of the world. They all stand
upon the brow of the hills opening back into the great
Lybian desert. As we stood in deep contemplation,
gazing in wonder on thismighty structure we had come
to examine, what huge proportions ; what an immense
labour ; what years of human toil I But they were built
for all that, and here they stand, and have stood for
thousands of years, defying the storms of the desert, and
the liglitnings of the firmaments ; how wonderful are the
works of men I About a dozen Arabs, with loose trou-
sers, short jackets, and red fez caps, came up and spoke
to us. " Want to go up de top, sah ? " said the leader of
the gang, " me take you up, take you inside, all round."
•* How much you ask ? " said one of the Frenchmen. " He's
the sheik," pointing to the best looking, who stood erect,
holding the folds of his striped gown about him with all
the dignity of a Turk;, " he's the sheik, he make de bar-
gains." We agreed with the sheik, for a guide to show
xiii up and down, inside and all round, for a dollar. We
started with our guide — we soon got up half way, and
there we stopped to draw breath ; the steps are from two
to three feet high, corresponding to the thickness of the
layers of stone ; of. these layers or tiers of stone, there
are two hundred and sixty-five; the ascent is quite
fatiguing, especially if one attempts to hurry ; it took us

EW.

>3rramidi,
,nd down
lem have
,hem to a
all stand
the great
itnplation,
had come ,

immense
were built

stood for
lesert, and
ful are the
loose trou-
and spoke
e leader of
ill round."
nen. "He's
tood erect,
n with all

:e de bar-

iC to show

loUar. We

way, and

from two

ess of the
me, thert

t is quite
it took ufl

QBAVDC^ma

447

tw«iitj minutes to reach the top. A ftw moments' rest,
and I began to look about ms, pondering on the litagni-
tude of the stones, and the numerous names in many
languages carved upon them. Forty feet of its top have
been torn away, and what from the ground looked like a
point too small to stand on, is a broad platform, -thirty
feet wide. I was surprised at the magnitude of the stones
even at this height, two to three feet thick, and severe
feet long ; what wondrous labour it must have been U
elevate such masses of stone to such a height from th*
ground, and yet men now say such nations were ignoran'
and uncivilized I

I looked upon the broad plain that stretched awa}
before me ; there was much to charm in the air at such a
height. I took a survey of the great panorama, which
lay in its variety and beauty at our feet. There was the
green valley of the Nile, stretching away as far as the
eye could reach, welcoming the golden sunlight that
came down from the cloudless sky ; with the majestic
and wonderful river, ns it rolled in dignity onward to its
ocean home. Tonder in the distance were the Arabian
hills skirting the vast expanse of the Lybian desert, that
lay in bleak sterility beyond ; near-^r by, a spot upon the
landscape, was the great city " Grand Cairo," its great,
grey, towering citidel. its mosques and minarets. Then
I turned and looked down upon the battle-field, where
Bonaparte, with thirty thousand men, met Murat Bey ;
where the memorable battle of the Pyramids was fought,
and Abercrombie fell ; where Bonaparte tried to inspire

\ -'-r.

■t.-'

■4

I '■'■

*:W

448

nrmioK of the ptramidb.

his men with ralour by pointing to these moiranitBli
exclaiming : forty centuries are looking down upon you
from those mighty structures.

The thunder of the battle ceased, the smoke cleared
away, thousands were left dead upon the field, and the
triumphant Bonaparte camped within the walls of Grand
Cairo. Cheops is a travellers' register, and many a visitor
has inscribed his name upon the summit. After adding
our names (an English barbarism I believe it to be ; but
it began in our school-days) to the many already there, we
descended in safety. As we approached the base, our guide
led the way to the opening that conducts to the interior.
This entrance is on the north side, and about fifty feet from
the base. It has a low doorway for so magnificent a struc-
ture ; but who expects anything but a dark and dreary
passage to the tomb ? for such is the place to where this
opening leads, a tomb hidden in the most stupendous pile
of stones the skill and labour of man ever erected. The
entrance is a low one, and we had to stoop nearly double;
we had entered but a few feet when we found ourselves
involved in darkness. Luckily we had brought a couple
of wax candles with us from Cairo j having lighted the
candles we continued to descend the narrow dismal pas-
sage. Our guide conducted us to the King's chamber :
this is the great sepulchre chamber of this astonishing
structure. Its length is thirty-four feet four inches ;
breadth, seventeen feet seven inches, and height nineteen
feet two inches. The only piece of furniture this cham-
ber contains is a chest of red granite, chiselled from a

,f'

THE SPHINX.

II \

4t9

n you

cleared
nd the
Qrand
visitor
adding
)e; but
lere, we
ir guide
interior,
jet from
a struc-
i dreary
lere this
ous pile
d. The
double;
urselves
a couple
Lted the
DQal pas-
amber :
nishing
inches ;
ineteen
s cham-
from a

solid block ; its size is larger than the passa^ leading to
the chamber, so that it must have been placed there when
tbe room was built. Was it for this sarcophagus this
stupendous pile of stones was erected ? What has become
of the lordly occupant ? When, and by whom, was it
tilled, and when did it give up its treasure ? There it
Htands in mute and mock defiance of every effort to ascer-
tain the history of its owner. Like the tomb of Jesus
after the morning of tihe resurrection, it wan empty ; the
scone had been rolled away from the door, but no angel
sat upon it to give the anxious visitor any tidings of its
occupant. We now turned our attention to a few other
interesting objects in close proximity. I had often heard
and read of the Sphinx, but now I had the gratification
of looking at this great monster. We are first struck
with its peculiar formation, and its immense proportion:).
It is one hundred and twenty-eight feet long ; from the
rock on which it rests its lion-like breast to the top of
the head is fifty five feet nine inches. It is in a crouch-
ing posture, and it stretches out its enormous paws fifty
feet in front of its capacious breast. This unwieldy mon-
ster is a monolith cut from the native rock of the lime-
stone of which it forms a part. This imposing head was
ailovned with a covering much resembling a wig, the
tlowiiig hair of which can still be seen projecting from
each side. Time, the driviog sands of the desert, and the
hand of violence, have left their wasting influences on this
noble piece of Art. The horns tliat adorned the head

IV ^

450

EOTPTIAN SARCOPHAGI.

have been broken off, but there it stands without them,
Htili grand, noble, and majestic. ^

The whole western bank in this vicinity of the green
valley of the Nile, for miles and miles, has been conse-
luted to the repose of the dead. Here are the sepulchres
•f kingR, mummy-pits, ibis tombs and rock-hewn cham-
Iters, for the magnificent sarcophagi of Apis bulls,
i (ere countless thousands have been gathered unto their
•athers, and the sands of the desert are every year cover-
ing them deeper and deeper. In the centre of one of
these pits was a large gianite chest, cut from the solid
block, very much like tiio one I have deacril^ed in the
king's chamber in the pyrauiltl. This was cDvored by a
lid of the same material. This lid had been carefully
lifted off and set on one side. Within the chest lay the
sarcophagus. It was covered with hieroglyphical figures
and inscriptions, and looked as fresh and perfect as when
first deposited. It had not yet been opened. Within
that sculptured chest was sleeping the mummied remains
of some distinguished personage. For thousands of years
he had enjoyed here the quiet sleep of the tomb, among
his fathers and kindred, but now his long repose must
be disturbed, and in some far off museum, inquisitive
strangers would gaze upon the blackened and withered
features, and wonder who he was 1 After seeing those
wondrous ancient monuments of Egyptian greatness and
idolatry, and paying the sheik, and backsheesh to our
guide, we mounted our lively little donkeys and returned
toCairOi

»*t

THE BtJINB or BEUOPOU&

461

Lhetn,

green

:onse-

Ichres

cham-
buUs.

) their

cover-
one of

e solid

in the

id by a

trefuUy

lay the
figures

bS when
Within
•emains
(f years
among
le must
luisitive
ithered
ig those
Less and
to our
[etumed

The sun was just dipping his golden disk beneath the
western horizon, far over the distant deserts, as we entered
the gates and wound our way through the narrow
crowded streets of Grand Cairo. We crossed the suburbs,
gained the hotel, and enjoyed agood bath. A hard day's toil
climbing the pyramids gave additional relish to the smok-
ing viands, and refreshed, we retired to bed, to dream of
stone-coffins, mummy-pits and the sphinx. We awoke
next morning from a refreshing sleep. The sun was shin-
ing in at our windows, the songs of the birds were awaking
inspiring echoes among the tangled foliage of the Ezbe-
kieh, and the air was fragrant with the perfume of the
sweet flowers of the East. The day was to be devoted to
an excursion to some place of interest a few miles from
the city. Breakfast over, we stood on the steps of the
hotel, and our three donkey-boys whom we had engaged
were in readiness ; we mounted our donkeys and started
off to visit the ruins of Heliopolis, the ancient On, or city
of the Sun. These ruins are about six miles from Cairo,
and the ride a most delightful one, through green fields
of corn and various productions of the luxuriant soil.
Now an orange grove opens upon our sight, then an ex-
tensive vineyard, while all the time our pathway was
shaded by avenues of tamarack, fig and acacia, that wove
their branches in tangled arches above our heads. As we
approached nearer, a beautiful obelisk lifts its slender
form high into the heavens, standing in solitary grandeur,
the only monument left to mark the site of the ancient^
opulent city. It is a single shaft of red granite, sixty-
eight fi^et two inches high, and six feet three inches broad

>.0l

452

THE SACHED SYCAMORE TREE.

at the base. This is the oldest obelisk in existence, and
here it stands in its original position. Its firm base and
towering head have withstood all the assaults of time,
the convulsions of the elements and the devastations of
war. The wreck and ruin of four thousand years have
not prevailed against it. The grounds around and in the
vicinity of this obelisk have been cultivated, here the
fellaheen sow their seed and gather their harvest, yet
here stood one of the oldest and finest cities in the w(jrld,
and here are buried the remains of some of the earliest
temples. The ancient Egyptian name of the city, as in-
terpreted, is the " City of the Sun." The Greeks called it
Heliopolis, and the Hebrews, Bethshemesh (House ot the
Sun). This place was one of the most celebrated seats of
ancient learning ; it was famed for astronomy, as well as
the worship of the sun. The sacred bull, Mervis, shared
also with the sun the divine honours of the city, and was
one of the most noted among the sacred animals of Egypt.
Not far from the obelisk is the beautifml fountain of the
sun ; the water springing directly from the earth. The
people say this is the only living spring in the valley of
the Nile. A few yards from this spring a very old syca-
more tree spreads broad and thick its massive branches,
forming an inviting shade. When Joseph and Maiy,
with the child Jesus, fied from the jealous and cruel
Herod, and took refuge in Egypt, tradition says they re-
posed under the shadows of these overhanging boughs and
drank water from the renowned fountain. Here, too, was
the school of Moses. Erom the waters of the Nile that
tiowed but a little distance from here, the daughter of

THE PALACE OF THE SHOOBRA.

453

e, and

se and

f time,

ons of

3 have
in the

ere the

ist, yet

J Wi^rld,

earliest

, as in-
called it

jeot the
seats of

I well as
shared

and was
f Egypt.

in of the
;h. The
alley of
lid syca-
»raiiches,
|d Maiy,
|nd cruel
they re-
[ughs and
,, too, was
lie that
ighter of

Pharaoh rescued the weeping infant ; and she called him
Moses, for she " drew him oiit of the water." In the
court of Pharaoh, he found a home. Here he became
learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians. How all
those recollections forced themselves on me. We next
visited the palace of the Shoobra ; it is about four miles
from the city and near the banks of the Nile. A beauti -
ful avenue, shaded by acacia trees, leads from the city to
it ; when these trees are in bloom they fill the air with
fragrance. The grounds are beautifully laid out, and are
frequently open to the public, and large numbers of visi-
tors resort to them. They are beautifully diversified
with terraces, walks, towers, flowers and faded avenues.
Many of the walks are tastefully paved with small black
and white pebbles, wrought into various designs of Mosaic
work. The great attraction of the garden is a noble
reservoir of water, gushing from marble fountains in the
form of crocodiles. From this beautiful place where the
senses are regaled by nature and art, we returned to
the city and made a special detour, in order to pass
through an Egyptian date palm grove. These groves
are planted in rows like our orchards. It is surpris-
ing what a variety of purposes the tree serves, and how
useful it is made. These trees sometimes grow from fifty
to seventy-five feet and are of uniform size from top
to bottom. The summit is surmounted bv a beautiful
crown of leaves. Every part of the tree seems to be of
some use ; a charming beverage is made from the fruit,
used among the natives ; wine is made from the sap. The

■ ' -'J

454

THE ANCIENT MONUMENTS.

bark and part of the wood are manufactured into mats,
baskets, and various other useful articles, the leaves are
manufactured into a great variety of fancy articles. But
the large crop of fruit is what renders it most valuable,
and the failure of the date crop is one of the greatest cal-
amities that can befall the land ; the tree is also ornamen-
tal as well as useful. They are the most beautiful and
striking objects of Egyptian landscape scenery. This
grove is very extensive and spreads over several miles of
the country. But while we have visited these places of
interest the day has rapidly passed, and the evening sun
is throw; ing his parting rays upon the beautiful landscape,
Hnd we must hasten to our hotel. Once more we are
threading our way through the narrow streets of the city,
and our ears are saluted with strange sounds from the
vendors of different articles, as they hawk them about.
The streets are passed, the din of criers dies away in the
distance ; we are back to the hotel ; a long ride and the
delightful air has given us a good appetite for the
evening meal which was ready on our arrival. . After we
had done justice to the delicious oriental viands, pre-
pared for us by our hospitable host we retired for the
night and slept well. Alter breakfast next morning, we
walked out to visit some of the ancient monuments of this
wonderful city. The citadel was the first object of our
admiration. It is the fortress of the city and tower of
its defence, the depository of its munitions of war. It
stands upon a hill, its massive frowning walls overlooking
the city on one side, and on the other the great barren

PALACE AND HABEM OF THE PASHA.

458

dftaert that stretches away towards the Red Sea. From
^his tower is one of the finest views that can be obtained.
First cast your eye towards the great Lybian desert, and
see the time-defying pyramids, from the top of which we
have before contemplated this land of the Pharoahs. On
the other side, the beautiful Nile, slowly weaving his
serpentine folds through groves of palm, and long green
and flowery banks, and a city of three hundred thousand
inhabitants at our feet, with the massive circuitous walla
that enclose it ; the great mosques and multitude of mina-
rets that crown them all, forming one of the most remark-
able and striking peculiarities of a Mahomedan country.
Within this fortress stands a splendid palace of the Pasha,
and by its side the harem, with beautiful fountains and
pleasure grounds.

But what astonished us most, is the wonderful contriv-
ance to supply the citadel with water; it is certainly worthy
of the presiding genius ^the land. This well is cut into the
solid rock to the enormous depth of two hundred and sixty
feet, and at the mouth fifty feet wide. Around the wall is
a winding stairway cut also into the rock, with a partition
wall of the rock left, about three feet thick, between it
and the well, with occasional holes for windows to look
through into the main shaft. Any one who has seen
Dover shaft leading from Snargate street to the heights
will at once understand how this well is constructed ; the
open passage through the centre of that structure corre-
sponding to the well ; the circular stairway winding round
it, to the descent here, cut in the rock, by which the bot-
tom is reached One of the most striking things connected

X :.

456

THE TOMB OF MOHAMMED ALL

with the well, is the manner of elevating the water. A
large ox is taken down this winding stairwi|.y near to
the bottom of the well where a cogwheel machine for
raising water is situated. The food is taken down to him,
and he is kept here as long as he is able to work.

This well was found covered up under a wall, by Sultan
Yoosef (Joseph) while clearing away the debris when build-
ing the fortress in A.D. 1711, hence " Joseph's well." Turn-
ing from the well, we next pay a visit to the mosque of
Mohammed Ali. It is a gorgeous structure, the finest
and most renowned in modem Egypt, standing upon the
hiU of the citadel and enclosed by its ramparts ; it lifts
its proud form high above its companions. The whole
interior, pillars, walls, and arches, is of beautiful alabaster
brought from the quarries of Upper Egypt.

The mosque is also a burying place. It is the tomb of
Mohammed Ali. He built it during his life, chiefly with
the design of making it a mausoleum for his ashes when
his eventful career was at an end. A conspicuous part
of the building has been set apart for his tomb ; a rail-
ing surrounds it, gorgeous decorations have been lavished
upon it, and noar it lights are kept continually burning.
Here, in pompous state he reposes, and dreams no more
of rivals, of conquests or of power. Such is life ! This
being our last day in Grand Cairo, after tea we walked
round the city to see all we could of this ancient place,
and learn the habits of the people.

Here may be seen exhibitions and illustrations of all
the passions and affections of the human heart. As we
\yexQ returning to our hotel, we b?iw, under the sh^de of i^

THE DAt^CINQ DEByiSHE&

467

er. A

tear to
ine for
bo him,

Sultan
nbuild-
' Tum-
sque of
3 finest
pon the
; it lifts
e whole
tlabaster

tomb of
ifly with
les when
fus part
I; a rail-
lavished
jbuming.
no more
! This
walked
|nt plax^e,

of all

As we

i^ideof^

tree a company of Dervishes. These are a singular re-
ligious sect ; they are anxious to obtain a reputation for
superior sanctity, and mary of them make pretensions to
the performance of miracles. They are frightfully super-
stitious. Their devotional exercises are often of the wild-
est and most extravagant kind. Taking hold of hands
in a large circle around a tree, they commence swinging
their bodies backward and forward, jeiking the head and
shaking the hands, keeping time to a sort of murmuring
exclamation, sometimes pronouncing the name of " Allah,"
As the excitement increases, they toss their hair, foam at
the mouth, scream and seem to give themselves up to the
wildest excesses of religious enthusiasm. They let go
hands and thon commence spinning around like a top,
stretching out their arms, and by the velocity of their motion
spreading out their loose dress like a large umbrella, for
twenty minutes or more, without pause or rest, and con-
tinually increasing velocity, these reiigious devotees will
twirl with a rapidity truly astonishing, making fifty revo-
lutions a mini? ';e. We are indeed sorry to see their exam-
ple followed in England by the Jumpers, &c. But we
have seen enough of this foolish, useless, so-called religious
enthusiasm. It would be well if such energy and devotion
could be turned into a more useful channel. This, how-
ever, can only be done by God and His Church. Here
is our hotel, and our day's excursion is ended.

We were up early next morning, and had breakfast* at
seven o'clock, settled our bill with the landlord, and rode
to the railway station in an omnibus, and took our depar-
tqre by train at ten o'clock tor Alexandria.

CHAPTER XXV.

"H£ HOSPITAL — MOHAMMEDAN SABBATH — DBPARTFiiJB— THE VOTAOB
— MALTA — DBPARTUBK — VOTAOB TO ENGLAND — PORTSMOUTH—
VOTAOB TO DUBLIN — ARRIVAL AT LIMERICK — THE 6tH LOTAi
.iBaiMBNT— PROMOTED — ALDERSHOT — ROUTB FOE GIBR.UiTAK—
TUB VOYAGE.

N my arrival at Alexaiidria, I went to the hospital,
where I was informed that I would have to wait
a few days longer. The men were fast improving, but
were not sufficiently recovered to warrant the doctor's
confidence of their strength, or to survive the trials of a
long voyage.

When I returned to the hotel, the two Frenchmen were
waiting my return to dinner. Next morning they were
to leave Alexandria by steamer to Jaffa, en route for the
Holy I-and. After breakfast I accompanied them to the
steamer, and there we parted, perhaps for ever. They
were jovial, decent fellows, and we enjoyed each other's
company very much during our short acquaintance.
Their names were respectively Napoleon Pomponnet and
Joseph Belair.

It being Friday, the Mahommedan Sabbath, I visited
one of the mosques, which in always open, and made

A VISIT TO THE MOSQUES.

450

a place of public prayer. Here the devout come at ali
times of the day to perforin their devotions ; but the child
of the Prophet does not abstain from his ordinary work
on the Sabbath, except at the hour of prayer about mid-
day, and then the mosques are crowded. The mosque is
built round a central square ; around this square a portico
is built, and in the centre of it is a fountain of water for
abluti,on. A good supply of water seems to be considered
indispensable among Mohammedans, to purify for worship.
The side of the building facing Mecca is the most impor-
tant one. The portico on this side is more spacious, and
has one or two extra rows of columns. This side of the
mosque is the place of prayer. A niche in the wall marks
the direction of Mecca, and in that direction the faces of
the worshippers are always turned — Christians always
turn to the east. To the right of this niche stands the
pulpit, and on the opposite side is a raised platform sup-
ported by small columns, on which is a desk, upon which
is kept a volume of the Koran, and from it a chapter is
read to the congregation. The floors have no seats, and
are covered with matting to accommodate the worship-
pers ; the rich and the poor pray side by side. Females
scarcely ever go to pray to the mosque ; if they go at all
they go at different hours to the men, and by themselves
—but they are taught that it is better to pray in private-
Indeed, it is said, women seldom, if ever, pray at all \
One little ceremony however, must not be forgotten. Do
not attempt to enter a mosque with your boots on.
Recollect that Oh, Englishmen! The devout attend-

400

MOHAMMEDAN SABBATH-DAT.

ants would lift up their hands in holy horror, and send
yon back as a dog. Stockings are not genemlly worn,
except by the best classes, who wear cotton socks in very
cold weather ; the only covering for their leet ever wora
is a low kind of a slipper, made of yellow morocco leather,
shai'ply pointed and turned up at the toes. As these are
always slipped off when one enters a mosque they are
turned down at the heel. The Mohammedan Sabbath
comeson Friday, the Jews* on Saturday.and the Christians*
on Sunday — the Lord's Day. Here I am, where the Sun-
days come in succession, so that extremes meet, for we
have no Sunday at all, although five periods are set apart
in each day as special seasons of prayer. These, every
l4ood Mohammedan is expected to observe, but they are
lieglected, and many persons, it is said, do not pray at all.
But this neglect does not arise from the wa,nt of an ad*
monition. F|om the minarets of their mosques the call
is regularlj' made. One of these calls is just after mid-
night, another about the break of day. At the appointed
hour, the muezzin ascends to the gallery of the minaret,
pitches his voice to a monotonous chant, and commences,
*' God is great ! God is gieat ! Prayer is better than
sleep ! I testify that there is no deity but God ! I testify
that Mohammed is God's prophet ! Come to prayer,
come to prayer!'* Sometimes quite long exhortations
are given. The Mohammedan Sabbath is but little re-
garded. The bazaai-s are all open, and labour of every
description is carried on. The mosques are' opened an
hour at noon, s^nd yet but f<?w take any notice of tlje call

DJCPAttTUftfi FROX EGYPT.

461

to prayer. Here are several Christian places of worship
— both Roman Catholic and Protestant — besides several
Greek chapels.

Monday morning, at ten o'clock, I went to the hospital,
when the doctor informed lue that the men would pro-
ceed by the steamer which arrived from the east yester-
day afternoon on her way to Malta. I then returned to
the hotel, settled with the land]ord,came and received the
invalids from the hospital, and marched them on board
one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers.
At two p.m. we moved out from the harbour, the sky
was of a deep blue, not a cloud or film of vapour as big
as a man's hand to cast a flitting shadow on the calm,
blue waters as they glistened in the summer sun. I
stood upon the promenade deck, my eyes intently fixed
upon the receding shore, and as it faded from my view
I bade farewell to Egypt. " Adieu, thou strange and
wondrous land ! Land of the old wonders, the phoenix,
the pyramids, and sphinx, I shall never see thee more !
Egypt, what a treasure-book of history and of study
thou hast been ! Once thou wcrt the pride and glory of
tlie earth, but now how changed and fallen ! Thy tem-
ples and gods have crumbled into dust! Plundered even
of the lenmants of thy fonuer greatness ! The occupants
of thy tombs have been borne away, thy obelisks ro-
inoved, and what reniaino<l of thy statues, altars and
iiiiitges, stolen to adorn the parks and enrich the museums
uf modern cities. But though thou sittest in silence,
^litude and degradation, the traveller will still come and

(

462

TH£ ISLAND OF MALTA.

muse among thy ruins, and thou wilt ever continue ta
be a teacher amoni' the nations ! " Such wero the re-
flections that passed through my mind as the dark line
of shore grew fainter and fainter, blending with the roll-
ing billows of the deep blue sea, till all was out of view.
I looked about me — there was the ship on which I stood,
the deep blue vault of the heavens over my head, the
vast expanse of waters that encircled me, and all the rest
had disappeared. We have about four days' sail from
Alexandria to Malta. The attention, civility, and polite-
ness with which the passengers were treated during this
voyage by the captain and crew deserve our warmest
gratitude. After a delightful voyage of nearly four Jays,
we entered the harbour of Valetta, about eight o'clock on
the morning of tlie 25th June, 1856. After landing I re-
ported myself at the brigade office, and handed over the
invalids at the general hospital, marched out to St.
Frances' camp, and joined my I balion there. While
stationed in Malta, we were exercised by the general
commanding the garrison, with a battalion of the German
and Italian legion, twice a week on Flori-Anne Square.
Except these general reviews, we did very little drill,
duty was very easy, and the rations, to us, after the
hard-tack we were used to in the Crimea, seemed ex-
cellent. We got a generous supply of smokingi warm
goat's milk in our coffee every morning, and also for our
tea in th' evening. The milkman brought his floek of
goats r»jund to our tents, crying out, " Milk 1 Johnny mo
change milk with mungey for the goat." We traded
pieces of bread for goat's milk.

•'"l

THE OLD CUJRCU OV ST. JOHN.

46n

ntinue to
J the re-
iark line

I the roll-
t of view,
h I stood,
head, the

II the rest
sail from
ad polite-
Luring this
r warmest
four Jays,
, o'clock on
nding I ra-
id over the
out to St.
■e. While
he general
he German
ne Square,
little drill,

after the
seemed ex-
kin^ warm
ilso for our
lis floek of
Johnny me
We tra<leil

The houses are huilt of gray stone ; the streets are steep
and narrow ; many of them have stone stairways cut in the
solid rock, and some of them are arched over head. One
of the most venerable and interesting structures in this
ancient city is the old church of St. John, which was
built in honour of the patron saint of the knights ; it is
240 feet long by GO feet wide. The mos^ irious part of
this church is the floor ; beneath it many v_ ne old knights
are entombed, and above them the armorial bearings of
all the Grand Masters of the order are inlaid in Mosaic
of various and beautifully coloured marbles. The hand
of titiiC has faded the fine fresco paintings of the dome
of this venerable structure, but the elaborate Mosaic work
of the floor is still the wonder and admiration of every
visitor. The climate is warm and exhilarating, the aiz
salubrious and invigorating, and many invalids come here
from colder latitudes to restore their health during the
winter months. But our time at this delightful station
is short ; we embark for England on the 18th July.

At last the long wished for day (by some) has arrived
and we embarked on board H.M.S. Simoon, in Valetta
harbour, at ten o'clock a.m., the 18th of July, 1856. All
being ready at two p.m., we steamed slowly out of the
harbour, amid cheer after cheer from the citizens and
soldiers who crowded the batteries along the harbour to
fijive us a last cheer and wave of their handkerchiefs; we
all stood on the deck, returning the cheers, and waving
our handkerchiefs also, until the island, like alittledoud
vanislied from view in the distance.

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464

OUT OK THE MEOITERBANEAN.

The sky was blue, the air clear ^nd invigorating, and
sdurce a ripple on the face of the deep. As our noble
ship glided smoothly through the dear blue waters of
the Mediterranean, our hearts were glad and our joy was
great to think that we were returning to our homes, our
families, and our friends, who were anxiously waiting
our return. The afternoon was occupied in swinging
hammocks, and drawing blankets and provisions from
the ship's stewaixl ; the men were in the best of spirits,
and amused themselves during the voyage in singing,
dancing, and all sorts of amusing games. We had excel-
lent rations during the voyage, plum-pudding and pea-soup
on alternate days. On the morning of the fourth day we
sighted the old rock of Gibraltar, rearing its lofty crest
to the sky. As we rounded Europa Point, our transport
hoisted her number (every ship that passes the rock must
show her colours), which was answered from the signal
station, which stands on the loftiest point of the rock.
At twelve o'clock we cast anchor in the quarantine har^
hour, where we had a delay of two hours, during which
time we were surrounded by bumboats, selling all sorts
of delicious fruits, oranges, lemons, cigars, tobacco, and
pipes to the men. At two p.m., we weighed anchor, and
steamed down through the straits, soon leaving the rock
of Gibraltar far behind. As our ship glided swiftly be*
fore a beautiful breeze, with studding-sails set, sweeping
onward like some huge bird of prey through " The Gut,"
we could not help noticing the contrast of scenery be-
tween the Spanish and African sides of the straits : the

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Ing, and
ax noble
raters of
: joy WM
>mes, our
f waiting
swinging
ons from
3f spirits,
1 singing,
had excel-
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rth day we
lofty crest
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the signal

the rock,
ntine har-
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Lchor, and
the rock

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sweeping

The Gut,"
»aery be-

Itraits; the

^ ■' ' ■•■■ ■• , ■. ,. ' ', ; , *'

HO ! rOR UEBRT ENGLAND. 4^5

former beautifully clothed in a mantle of green, with
herds of sheep pasturing along its undulating banks down
to the water* 8 edge; while the latter, with its barren-
looking and sun-scorched hills, and tremendous precipices
rising several thousand feet above the sea, looked more
wild and picturesque. The evening was so delightful, wd
all sat on deck till a late hour enjoying the sublimity and
grandeur of the scene ; the moon shone so clear and bril-
liantly from her celestial throne, and the stars twinkling
bright and shining in the clear blue firmament, throwing
a pale light over the face of the deep, watching at the
same time our noble ship, as she glided swiftly through
the smooth clear waters, dashing the sparkling spray and
foam from her bows. On the morning of the fifth day
from Gibraltar, we sailed round the green shores of the^
Isle of Wight, on the one side, while the low sandy coast
of Hampshire, indented by the roadstead of Portsmouth
that showed a perfect forest of masts towering above its
sea defences, made the beautiful island look most lovely,
recollecting it was the place where Her Majesty lived, and
which she loved. We passed through the stately ships of
war, as they rode majestically at anchor ; an interchange
of signals took place between the flag ship and ours
directing our captain where to anchor we supposed, and
soon we cast anchor off Portsmouth harbour, and shortly
after the troops disembarked, and marched to Anglesea
Barracks, where we were quartered pro tern. Soon after
our arrival, my wife and two children joined me; we
rested here a week, when we embarked on board a small

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466 I TOLUNTBEB TO THE 6TH ROTAL REGIMBNT^

Bteamer for Dublin, landing at the north wall, on the 6th
Aqgust, after a rather rough passage ; all the women and
children were sea sick ; marched to Kingsbridge Station
where we took the train for Limerick, arriving there at
four p.m. we joined the depot in the New Barracks. I
was here about three monthM when my oldest child, a boy,
six years old, took sick with the scarlet fever, and on the
23rd November, 18')G, he died. I was very happy pre-
vious to this, but the death of this my only boy made
me very sorrowful.

On the first of March, 1857, 1 was appointed assistant
school teacher at the garrison school, where I continued
until, the 22nd November, 1857 when I volunteered with
several other non-commissioned officers to the 2ud Bat-
talion Cth Royal Regiment, which was then being raised
at Preston, by Lieutenant-Colonel Fraser. Our depot being
over the strength of non-commissioned officers, we were
allowed to volunteer to this new battalion. At ten o'clock
a.m., on the 22nd November after signing our accounts, and
receiving our pay up to that time, we took the train for
Dublin, thence by steamer to Liverpool, where we landed
at 7 o'clock on the morning of the 23rd, had breakfast at
a hotel, and proceeded by the ten o'clock train to Preston ;
arriving there at two p.m.. marched to barracks, and re-
ported ourselves at the orderly room of the 2nd Battalion
6th Royal Regiment. Next morning at ten o'clock, Lieu-
tenant-Colonel Fraser, with Adjutant Kitchener, inspected
«s at the orderly room, and posted us to our respective

'\i.

•<' ';

"-1 -^

BOUTE FOB ALDEB8H0T.

467

oompanies. That eyening my name appeipod in re^^en-
tal orders thus : — ''

"1085, Corporal Thomas Faughnan to be Colonr-Sergeamt
from the 22nd instant, and posted to No. 5 Company."

Next day, Lieutenent Kelson, who commanded Na 5
Company, appointed me the pay-sergeant. The company
were 150 strong, and not one of them had yet received
their uniform and kits. Between the drills and parades,
which were long and frequent, I drew the recruits! uni-
forms, knapsacks and kits from the quartermaster's
store, marked them myself, and had their clothing altered
and properly fitted at the master tailor's shop. I must
say the Crimea was nothing to what I went through in
Preston. After the battalion had got organized, clothed
and fairly drilled, we got the route for Aldershot.

On the 25th February, 1858, at ten o'clock in the morn-
ing, we proceeded by rail to Aldershot, arriving at Fam-
borough station at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and marched
to South Camp, where we were quartered in the huts of
L lines. During our term at Aldershot, the battalion
was put through a strict course of drill. On the Ifith of
April, H. M. the Queen, and H. R H. Prince Albert, re-
viewed the trpops in camp, when we marched in grand
divisions. They were much pleased at the manner in
which the movements were performed by the young bat-
talion, and H. B. H. Prince Albert expressed himself in a
highly complimentary manner to the general, who con-
veyed it to the troops in orders. After the review was over
Her Majesty and Prince Albert drove round the camp in

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4C8

DEATH OF "ALBEBT THE GOOD."

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Ml open carriage as the men were at dinner, when the
hand of each regiment played " Qod Save the Queen " as
they passed each respective regiment. That was the last
time I ever saw H. R. H. Prince Albert, for he died, deeply
lamented by the British Army, on the 14th Decemben
* 3861. On the second day of May we received a letter of
readiness for Gibraltar. On the 12th, the colonel receiv-
iKi the route to proceed by rail on the 18th inst. to Ports-
mouth, there to embark on board of H. M. Ship City of
Maiicheater for Gibraltar. On the morning of the 18th
May, 1858, the second Battalion 6th Royal Regiment
marched from South Camp to Fainborough Station, where
we took the train for Portsmouth. The signal being
given, the train moved out of the station with its living
f eight of red-coats, rattling steadily on over the beau-
tiful green landscapes. Trees seem to go rushing past ;
still on and on, panting in its rapid course, flies the long
t^^in, clattering past walls and bridges with a crash
w listling t^hrill to warn the unwary of its approach, and
h( wling like a demon pursued, as with hiss and roar it
planges into the tunnel. To describb all the incidents
which came under my notice at the station might be
tliought tedious. Suffice it to say that we arrived at
Portsmouth at 2 p.m., and embarked on board H. M. Ship
City of Manchester, in the main dockyard. At 4 p.m,
all being reported present and correct, the Captain gave
the signal and we moved out from the wharf amid loud
cheers from the spectators, which were heartily returned
by (he rod-coats on board, and we passed down the bright

feh^.;

:;.iM:&,M«i^

THE VOTAOB.

469

sparkling Solent, glistening in the sunshine of a beautiful
May day.

The spectacle was not lost on many of us, as our ship
passed through the crowds of magnificent men-of-war.
and transports, with their sails glittering like silver in the
summer sun. After we passed through the Needles, late
in the afternoon, the wind being favourable, we spread our
wide canvas to the eveninfr breeze, and now the sun went
down leaving a pale glare over the dark horizon ; the wind
began to freshen and the sea to rise. The beacon on the
Eddystone lighthouse faintly faded like a little spark and
disappeared ; on went the good ship bounding beneath a
starry firmament, the dim tractless ocean stretching be-
fore us like the undiscovered realms of the future, and
I once more bade farewell to England. At nine o'clock
the last post sounded, when those who were not already
in their hammocks now turned in. I stopped on dec^
watching the sailors reefing sails and handling the ship,
and when tired of listening to the piping of the wind
through the rigging, and the shrill sound of the boat-
swain's whistle, I followed the example of my comrades
and turned into my hammock. I was awakened in the
middle of the night by a tremendous noise on deck. Foot-
steps rattled, shuffled, and stamped above my head, and
every now and then, amidst hoarse shouting, whistling,
and yells of " Aye, aye, sir," there was a sound of banging
down upon the deck of heavy coils of rope^ The ship was
tilted over very much on one side, and at times shivering
from bow to stem as a heavy s^a struck her on the beam.;

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470

OOMMOnON ON BOARD

f-'^- ^

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Several of the recruits, on hearing this uproar, jumper
from their hammocks with fright; some thought the mast
had gone overboard, or that the ship was on fire, or had
sprung a leak and was fast going to the bottom ; but I
divined the cause at once, and told them that the wind
had changed, and the sailors were reefing topsail, when
they all turned into their hammocks again. <

The motion of the ship, now heading against a heavy
sea, became very unpleasant ; she heaved, jolted and
pitched BO that I found it in vain to sink again, into sleep,
but after a couple of hours I again sank into the arms of
Morpl^eus, where from a heavy and dreamless slumber I
was once more aroused between five and six o'clock in
the morning by the orderly sergeant rousing the men to
stow away hammocks and wash decks, and a hard job he
had of it, for most of them were very sick. Just hear
the orders and the replies : " Peter Riley, come, get out
of that hammock,** said the sergeant, " Tommy Devanny,"
said a voice, " d'ye hear the sergeant ? Are you going to
lay there all day like a lazy land-lubber ? " " Och, ser-
geant, I'm that sick, I'm as wake as wather, and not able
to stand on my feet, I'm so sick I *' " You get a piece of
fat pork and bob it up and down your throat, then swallow
it and see if that doesn't get you all right." " Och, ser-
geant, for the love of Qod, lave me alone, I'm dyen',
send for the docther, and the Lord have marcy on yer
mother's sowl" The latter supplication was addressed
to Sergeant Bramall, who, unable any longer to restrain
his indignation, had seized the blanl^ets, and was tugging

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jumpet
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, or had
; but I
he wind
il, when

a heavy
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arms of
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9 men to
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ust hear
I, get out
evanny,"
going to
Och, ser-
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piece of
swallow
Och, ser-
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y on yer
iddressed
> restrain
tugging

DI8T11E88 OF LANDSMEN DUBINQ THX OILB. 471

and tearing them out of Priyate Tommy Deranny's ham-
mock. A thud on the deck, and a loud roar of laughter,
announced that the sergeant had succeeeded in dragging
the offender from his hammock.

The men were soon up and busily engaged, the pump
and hose were set going, and the inundation and swab-
bing went on briskly ; all hands were at work with
swabs, scrubbers and scrapers. The ship was still heav-
ihg, although the warm sun had burst through the heavy
clouds. When the breakfast bugle sounded at eight
o'clock, many of the recruits were absent through sea-
sickness. Time will not permit me further to detail the
distresses of landsmen who encountered at starting a gale
of wind which lasted nearly two days ; I only wish, good
reader, you may never experience it I shall simply re-
cord the satisfaction experienced by many of the red-
coats on board the City of Manchester, when the wind
changed and sent us flying at the rate of ten or twelve
knots an hour, as we shaped our course acr : ^5. a well-
known bay of tempestuous character, which, hov^ ever, on
the present occasion was found quiet enough. It was,
however, a joyful moment when the rocky and precipi-
tous coast of Cape St. Vincent, loomed up distinctly
through the hot mist of the early morning ; and before
many hours had elapsed our transport was bounding be-
fore the breeze through the straits of Gibraltar. The
men were now perfectly recovered from sea-sickness, and
they assembled on deck looking out for the long wished-
for haven, and gazed on the much- talked of ** old rock of

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472

THl "OLD BOGK^' ONOB KOBE.

Qibraltar/' which was to be our present home. At three
o'clock p.m., 25th May, 1858, we moved into our moor-
ings at the new mole, and, in half an hour, disembarked
and marched to the Town Range Barracks, and part to
the Wellington Front and King's Bastion.

fci.

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■an

CHAPTER XXVL

iltlUTAL— SPAMIIH BULL-FIGHTS— LIUBT. JACKSON— CHANOB QVAB*
TXBS— THB ROOK— MONKEYS — OAVBS — OABDKN S — WAR IN ALOIBRf
—OOBrU—VOTAaB— ARRIVAL— SANTA MABIA— I»E8BRTI0N-- THI
MAROH— -OBBBKB.

JHE 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was sta-
tioned in Gibraltar four years, during which time
we were changed from one barracks to another, about
every twelve months. In the summer of 1859, H. R. H.
the Prince of Wales visited Gibraltar, when the troops
gave him a right royal reception. St. Michael's Cave^
all the caverns and subterranean passages, as well as the
city, were illuminated on the occasion, with a grand mili-
tary ball at the convent, and a public one at the theatre.
The inhabitants turned out en masse, and gave him a
hearty welcome as he drove through the streets in an
open carriage, with military bands playing and guards of
honour as he entered and got out of his carriage, at the
entrance to the convent On the 31st July, Captain J.
E. Tewart joined the regiment, and took charge of No. 5
company at the King's Bastion. On the loth of August,
myself and several other sergeants of the garrison, with
their wives, rode into Spain, some on horseback, more on
tide-cars, to witness a bull-fight at San Roque. On ar-

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474

S^AKlSIt fiULL^IOfit.

rival we put up our liorses at an hotel, and paid a dollar
each to go in. V

Where the bull-fight was held is a large structure, cap-
able of containing ten thousand people. It is built of
stone, with seats like a circus, and enclosed with a high
wall of ancient architectural design, gaily ornamented,
with flags waving all round on its summit.

One half of this enclosure is allotted and carefully
decorated, with an elaborately fitted box and a canopy
surmounted with the Royal Arms of Spain, for the Royal
family, and a splendid military band on a platform over
the entrance. When drawing near the opening scene, the
seats were all filled with a gaily dressed audience, the
Spanish ladies in their gorgeous fineries, with their fans
waving continually. In the ring were six mounted cava-
liers, armed with lances and coats of mail, and six more
on foot, with silk mantles lined with crimson across their
arms, and swords drawn.

Then the gate flies open, and the bull rushes into the
ring ; the people cheer and shout ; the bull roars and
paws the ground, runs at a horseman, when the ridei
sticks him with his lance. Madly he rushes at a red
cloak held out by a footman, and falls headlong on his
face. In this way they tease him until he foams with rage.
The footmen throw gaily dressed, loaded darts, and stick
them in his neck, when the dart explodes with a loud re-
port This maddens him ; he shakes his head and rushes
at a hoi-se, tearing out his entrails and raising him on his
horns ; the footmen fool him with the red cloaks and

,^fc^i•4t4iiffe

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'»'i

OlATH Of COLOUft-SinOBAHT MABSHALL.

475

loaded darts, when the bull coraen a man, he slips into
a side7place made for that purpose. After he is well ex-
hausted, and having over two dozen darts dangling from
his neck, the professor undertakes to kill him. He plays
with him a long time, fooling him with the red cloak and
sword ; at last, when he gets a good chance, he sinks the
sword to the hilt just in the back of the head. When
the bull gives the last roar and drops, throwing his life
blood out of his mouth, the professor salutes the audience,
who cheer him vociferously.

Three gay teams of smart ponies, with rich trappings,
enter the ring, and draw off the dead bull and horses ;
when the band plays while the ring is being cleared for
another fight. As we returned from the bull fight, we
passed some Spaniards who were driving mules; the
road being narrow, one of the sergeants shoved a mule
out of the road, when the Spaniard threw m stone, strik-
ing one of the ladies who were on the side-car ; then
colour-sergeant Marshall jumped down to chastise the
Spaniard ; they closed on each other, the sergeant throw-
ing him down in the scuffle ; the Spaniard drew his stiletto
and stabbed the sergeant, who cried out, " I am stabbed,"
when the Spaniard ran away. Some British sailors who
were passing at the time gave chase and caught him ; one
u. the sailors took out his jack-knife, and cut the sign of
the cross deep on the Spaniard's back, saying, ** If I have
to swear against you, I will have a mark so as I may
know you again ;" giving the Spaniards a good thrash-
bg, they left them. The wound which the sergeant

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/• I

476

LIEUTENANT JACKSON.

'f\h>-

received did not seem much at first, but he was taken to
tlfe hospital, whefe he lay for eight days, and died from
the wound, deeply regretted by the battalion. The
Spaniard was caught, tried, convicted, and transported for
two years, on the sailor's evidence, who marked him on
, , the back with the jack-knife.

After putting in four months in camp at the Old North
Front, where we went through a course of rifle instruction
and ball practice, under our instructors. Captain Kerr,
Lieutenant Nugent, and Sergeant Parkinson, we were
changed to the South Barracks. Here the colonel and
oflicers encouraged ail sorts of amusements amongst the
men^ Each captain purchased a boat for his company,
and the sergeants got out a splendid outrigger, forty feet
long, from Clasper, the famous boat-builder on the Tyne.
.Tn addition to the boating. Lieutenant Jackson, of the
Royal Artillery, organized garrison reading-rooms, where
all the latest periodicals and newspapers, with excellent
libraries, were at the service of the troops, and even
schools where the men could learn English, French and
Spanish, and all sorts of amusing games, such as billiards,
bagatelle, backgammon, dominoes, and chess. This is
what ought to be in every barracks, it keeps the men
from the low dram-shops and saloons, and makes men
and soldiers of us, giving us esprit de corps. Lieutenant
J ackson was a barrack-room word with the garrison. He
made himself very popular amongst the troops by the
unremitting exertions he used in order to improve the
condition, habits, education, comfort, 'and amusement of
the non-commissioned officers and privates of the garrison

-.^f:

^.I'-iirt

^t^^y^^ , ^lif^^W^f '^'^; ";^;-

DEPREDATIONS BT THE MONEETS.

477

At those barracks the Roman Catholics and Protestants
occupied the same church, the former at ten o'clock, and
the latter at eleven. The English church chaplain, Rev.
Mr. Gardiner, was a most eloquent preacher, and a very
popular clergyman, so much so, that the sergeants of tha
6th Regiment subscribed and sent to London for a beau-
tiful Bible, which we presented to him, with an address,
couched in the warmest expressions of admiration and
gratification for his ability as an eloquent preacher, as well
as his sincerity, enthusiasm, passionate ardour, and unre-
mitting attention to the spiritual and temporal welfare
of the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment, who will long
remember Mr. Gardiner as being a father to both Roman
Catholics and Protestants of the battalion while stationed
at Gibraltar. The Lord bless him and keep him, prays
the author.

The rock is about three miles long, by three quarters of
a mile broad. Its inhabitants are called " Rock Scorpions."
They are composed of English, Italians, Spaniards, Moors
and Jews. The population, exclusive of the garrison, is
about 16,500. The strip of peninsula connecting Gibral-
tar with Spain is called the " Neutral Ground."

The approaches both from the Neutral Ground and
from th*^ sea are guarded by a great number of very
powerful batteries, so that the rock may be regarded as
impregnable. Monkeys are very numerous, and can be
seen from the Alameda, looking down from the rock on
the soldiers at drill, and running up and down the old
Moorish Wall leading to the signal station; some of them

' V-,

' u

•^>my%-^

r<'V'

r '

f%:'

478

ST. MICHAEL'S CAtS.

are very large. In visiting the company's baiTack-room,
when orderly-sergeant, one day, the men b^ing all out at
drill, I found a large baboon stealing the men's bread o£f
the shelf in the barrack-room. As soon as he saw me he
sprung out of the window, on to a wall which divided the
steep rock from the barracks, and then stood and looked
at me. They watch the bairack-rooms from this wall and
when they see the men going out to drill they enter the
room and steal the bread. The rock at its highest point
attains an elevation of 1,440 feet above the sea. It is
perforated by numerous caverns, the largest of which is
called Saint Michael's Cave, which has an entrance about
1,000 feet above the sea Thence there is a descent through
a succcesion of caves, some ample chambers, others mere
passages through which it is barely possible to creep, to
a depth of 500 feet below the entrance ; at this point the
foul air has barred further ingress, but the roaring of the
sea has been distinctly heard, which leads to the inference
that these gloomy hollows have communication with the
waves beneath. Large stalactites are found in most of
the caverns, and congealed stone, of which many useful,
and ornamental articles are made by the soldiers and
others, such as shirt-buttons, brooches, studs and rings,
with several other useful articles. There are no springs
of fresh water on the rock, and the inhabitants are there-
fore compelled to depend on the heavy rainfall, and every
precaution is adopted to preserve as much of the water
as possible : large tanks are placed so as to catch the rain-
water off the roofs of the houses, and conduits are made

■. ^

.fr;

^■'■jV^^-

GENERAL ELIOTT'S m6NUMENT.

479

to guide the water from the rock surface into great public
reservoirs. Among the latter, the Navy Tank, for the
supply of ships coming to the port is conspicuous, its
capacity being 11,000 tons of water.

At present England guards this formidable rock with
jealous care ; every available point of defence bristles with
guns ; the steep rock is honeycombed with galleries and
bombproof barracks ; deep ditches with drawbridges, stftep
escarps bar all approach, and batteries are hewn in the solid
rock, frowning alike on friend or foe. The drawbridges
are closed when the evening gun fires at sun-down, and
are opened at sunrise, by a sergeant detailed for that duty,
who is called the " key sergeant," his post when not open-
ing or closing the gates, is at the Convent guard, where
he keeps the keys of the fortress. There are several
pleasant walks about the rock, but perhaps the best is in
the Alameda, and the gardens situated at the south end.
They are prettily laid out ; a bronze bust on a column has
been erected in these gardens to the memory of Oeneral
Eliott, its heroic defender. Plants and different sorts of
tropical flowers, dwarf-palm, Spanish-broom, the yellow
blossoms of which are mixed with the varied colours of
fuchsia, — orange and oleanders interspersed along the
beautiful walks and round the shaded rustic seats. With
the profusion and aroma of the flowers, rendered it a
most charming promenade, and during the fine evenings
military band performances take place, when it is usually
thronged with visitors.

The adjacent Spanish towns of Campamiento« San

' <,.';

I,'.*,..

¥'.'

480

FINAL DEPASTURE TB M OIBBALTAB.

Boque and Algeciras are much resorted to by excursion*
ists from the rock, and during the summer months are
selected by numerous families for a prolonged stay. How-
ever little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and
sandy plain affords, when once arrived at Campo, the rider
enjoys a most charming prospect, as there is probably no
other point from which the isolated rock appears so grand
or picturesque than from this neat little village.

During the summer of 1860, a war raged between the
Queen of Spain and the Dey of Tangiers, when about five
hundred women and children of the Moorish Jews from
Tangiers fled to Gibraltar for protection ; they were sentto
the North Front where they were supplied by our au-
thorities with tents and rations duringthe war, which lasted
for six months ; their husbands were kept behind to fight,
and only a few old men accompanied the women to Gib-
raltar. After putting in a little over four years on the
rock of Gibraltar, we embarked on the afternoon of the
25th June, 1862, on board H. M. S. Himalaya which
lay at the New Mole for the Island of Corfu. As we lay
at the wharf expecting to go to sea early in the morning,
Rev. Mr. Gardiner came on board about eight o'clock, to bid
the battalion a last farewell ; the moon was clear and
shone down with a silver brightness on the mass of red-
coats who assembled on deck to hear Mr. Gardiner address
the battalion. He stood on the quarter deck and de-
livered a most eloquent and sympathetic address, which
touched the men's hearts, and drew tears from most of
those strong soldiers who were present.

Vfe-

lAKTA MAURA^

481

At five (/dock next morning we steamed out from tbe
New Mole and proceeded Mund Europa point, passing the
pillars of Hercules, and as we steamed out we gradually
lost sight of the coast, which was beautifully illuminated
by the rising sun, affording us a last £^limpse of the old
rock of Qibraltar. This magnificent transport, one of the
bestin her Majesty's service,is kept up to man-of-war fash-
ion in discipline and cleanliness. Af rer a splendid voyage
of fiye days we reached Corfu at two o'clock in the after-
uoon of the 1st July, 1862. No. 5 company, consisting
of Captain Tewart, Lieutenant Hall, and Ensign Orseme,
myself and four sergeants, and one hundred and sixty rauk
and file,were ordered to proceed on detachment to Santa
Maura,and No. 3 company to Ithica. During tbe afternoon
the headquarters and the companies for Corfu disembarked,
the companies for detachment stopped on board, and at
four o'clock next morning the steamer proceeded with
these detachments to their respective stations, arriving at
Santa Maura, about three o'clock in the afternoon of the
following day, when we disembarked, the Himalaya, ^to-
ceeding on to Ithica with .No. 3 company. ^ The garrison
of Santa Maura, consisted of Captain Tewart (comman-
dant), one garrison sergeant-major, four sergeants, and two
hundred rank and file, including the artillery ; that day I
was appointed garrison sergeant-major and orderly room
clerk besides. We were stationed at Santa Maura about
twelve montha One of the Austrian steamers came in
every Sunday morning with the mails from Corfu, which
I had to answer by seven p m. the same day, before the

- \:'KI

V, ;■

'vi' lY '

''■ r

482

DESERTION.

steamer returned in the evening. This was the only mail
during the week. The Island of Santa Maura i^ separated
from Greece by a broad lagoon which abounds with wild
ducks ; they came in immense flocks in the evening to
feed during the night, and flew away at daylight. Many
ift night the officers of the garrison put in after those
ducks. After drills and parades the men amused them-
selves with diflerent games, such as cricket, ball-playing,
skittles, and pitching quoits. There was only one thing
that marred our pleasure, and that was desertion ; an
idea had got into the heads of some of the worst characters
to desert — Greece being close, and only the shallow lagoon
betweeb them and freedom ; a few of them, whom we
were much better without, deserted into Greece.

We had a iance-coiporal named John Smith (a Yankee),
who was in charge of a fatigue party outside the barrack
gate, when he induced the six men to desert. The alarm
being given by the sentry on the battery, that the fatigue
party were escaping across the lagoon, I seized a rifle, ran
' out the back gate, loading as I went along, sighting it for
six hundred yards. I flred at Smith as he was crossing
the water, striking him in the heel, knocking the boot ofl
his left foot, leaving it behind in the water where we
found it with the bullet hole through it. After they got
into Greece they were free, and we could not touch them ;
they carried the wounded man ofi" with them.

A man named John Nobles, who was servant to Lieuten-
ant Hall, robbed his master of thirty-six sovereigns, and
deserted into Greece. The sentry on the battery saw him

.,.uv-'>T

CHASING A DESERTER.

488

mail

■ated

wild

ngto

Many

those

bhem-

lying,

thing

n ; an

•acters

lagoon

om we

mkee),

»arrack

i alarm

'atigue

fle, ran

it for
Irossing

toot ofi
ire "we

ey got

them;

Lieuten-
Ens, and
hw him

wHh his dog early in the morning walking on the spit
towards Greece, hut did not suspect that he was going to
desert, as he told the sentry he was going to give his
master's dog a run on the spit, when he let him pass, as he
was an officer's servant. About ten o'clock in the morning
the officer missed his servant ; his suspicions being aroused
he opened his cash box, and found the money gone ; he
reported it to Captain Tewart, who ordered myself and
a corporal to start after Noble, the chief of police sending
a policeman as an interpreter. We scoured the country
as far as Missalonghi, where we arrived about six o'clock
in the evening, and were shown great attention, aind
treated well by the Tetrarch, who sent an escort of cav-
alry with us next morning, besides furnishing us with
horses. We divided into three parties, each taking a diff-
erent road ; towards evening we halted at a village. I put
up at a respectable private house, there being no public-
houses in the place ; my escort were billeted on the people
of the village. It being their dinner-hour, the hostess
spread a clean white cloth on the carpet in the middle of
the floor, on this were placed a pepper-box, salt-cellar, and
a roll of bread for each person, little mats were placed
round on 7?7hich the dishes were placed in succession;
all sat down cross-legged round the cloth ; a long, narrow
strip of white linen was spread round on our knees ; there
were eight persons sitting round this spread. A large
Boup-tureen containing a kind of thick soup and meat
Btood in the centre, when we were all politely invited to
oommence. They all dipped their spoons in the tureen^

/ '

m'^^'

■vv"''^"

srvt

484 MAKNBBS AND CUSTOMS OF THE GBEEBJL

and asked me to join them, but I declined by saying thai
" I did not like soup just then." After soup other dishes,
consisting of stewed mutton, fish, rice, milk, vegetables
and fruit were handed round ; they all helped themselvea
The left hand is used to convey the food to the mouth.
Tlie thumb and two first fingers doing the duty of forks.
There is a neatness in the Grecian way of manipulating the
food that can only be acquired by care and long practice ;
the thumb and two fingers alone must touch the meat the
rest of the hand remaining perfectly clean and free from
contact with it. An amusing incident occurred, tending
to increase our merriment. Mustard, an unusual condi-
ment on a Greek's table, was handed round, perhaps in
honour of my presence. An old lady, not knowing what it
was took a spoonful, and before any one had time to inter-
fere, had swallowed it. Her face became crimson, tears ran
down her cheeks, she sneezed and appeared choking ; but
at last, with a supreme effort, she regained her composure,
and tried to look as pleasant as circumstances would al-
low. It is considered a mark of great attention on the
part of the hostess, to pick the daintiest bit of food^ and
place it in the mouth of any of her guests. Native wine
was handed round in small tumblers. I maua^^ed to make
an excellent dinner, being used to squatting down to my
meals in camp before SebaslK)pol ; therefore I was not at
all awkward on this occasion. Dinner being over, the
cloth was removed, when cofiee and cigarettes were
handed round. Next morning we had a cup of coffee
«nd started off scouring the country ; at last we passed

't.' '•!%-■

■f

lY-"

»i?^

MURDER OF ▲ DESERTER.

485

through a wood where we saw Noble's dog and dose to
him was the body of Noble covered up with a little earth.
We immediately acquainted the authorities, who held a
post-mortem examination on the body. We then searched
and found the guide that accompanied him, and had him
searched, when the money was found on him, except two
dollars which Noble had paid for horse-hire for himself
and his guide. When travelling along through the wood,
this Greek guide, whom he hired to show him the way,
murdered him for the money, and buried him in the
woods. Only for the faithful dog we might never have
found either the murdered man or the murderer. The
money was retained by the Greek authorities until after
the trial , ,

We then returned to Missalonghi when I returned the
Petrarch many thanks for the assistance he rendered us
in securing the murderer and the money. He then gave
me a letter of congratulation to the Commandant, when
we returned to Santa Maura.

The guide was tried by the Greek authorities, when, by
a force of circumstantial evidence, he was found guilty
and sentenced to penal servitude. ,

V'«1

/ ' y

1 ■^*' *-„•

''■:^>jM

A'- ■

CHAPTER XXVIL

M» HENRY RTORKS — ALBANIA — VISIT NECROPOLIS — THE BRIGAND
OHIEF — TURKISH BATHS — COFFEE HOUSES— TURKISH LADIES* 008-
TXTMB' — sergeants' BALL— the ROUTE — CORFU — ROUTE — WEST
INDIES— THE VOYAGE — THE BURNING MOUNTAIN — GIBRALTAR — MA-
DEIRA— TENERIFFB— SANTA CUUZ— CAPE DB VEBDB ISLANDS—
THINIDAD— JAMAICA.

vei

fN the month of October, Sir Henry Storks, Lord
..^ High Commlsioner of the Ionian Islands, with his
aide-de-camp, visited Santa Maura, when he inspected
the troops, barrack and fortifications, and expressed him-
self highly pleased at the appearance and discipline of
the troops, the cleanliness of the barrack and the good
order and thorough repair in which the guns, shot, shell
tnd fortifications were kept. Several of the naval officers
of H. M. S. Icarus in which he came from Corfu, ac-
compp,nied him on shore and invited the commandant to
lunch with them on board. In November, myself, two
other sergeants and three Greeks, went on an excursion
to Previsa, a town in Albania, seven miles across the bay.
We rowed across in a large four-oared boat The entrance
to the harbour was indeed a pretty sight ; nothing could
l.e more romantic than the little bay stretched out before
us, the variety and beauty of the numerous groves of olive

»,.;*i*f.- ,-

TOWN OF PBEYISA IN ALBANIA.

' I

487

and fruit trees along the banks, the number of little boats
gliding about on the smooth, clear blue waters, and small
vessels cruising from one island to another, with the tal)
minarets towering high above the numerous white houses
making up as charming a picture as could be imagined.
On kndinor we were pui prised to see the appearance of
the town. A few of the houjcs are good, substantial build-
ings and comparatively clean and comfortable, but the
rest of the town had a dirty and slovenly appearance.
The streets are narrow and crooked, the shops are little
recesses from six to eight feot deep, without windows ;
they close with folding doors, which are thrown open
during business hours. Here the occupant sits, sells, works
and carries on almost every conceivable kind of business.
In one of these places you can see a dry-goods merchant
with his stock stored in a little space not more than eight
teet square. The floor is elevated two steps above the
street and the tradesman sits behind a little counter.
The customers stand at the open front and all the busi-
ness is done in the street ; every one sits down, the mer-
chant at his shop, the mechanic at his work.

Jt is amusing to see what ingenuity they exercise in
getting everything within their reach, that they may not
change their position. After we had walked through
several streets we visited the barrack, where the guard
turned out, and the sentries presented arms as we passed
their posts ; we supposed that they did not know our
rank or else they never would have presented arms, but
WQ were neatly dressed in our uniform and swgrds^ and w^

-■ M

t.^-\

.'■*^i

f, 1,177'

fp.

488

ANCIENT omr or NicnoroLis.

supposed they took us for commissioned officers. One of
the Turkish officers accompanied us round the barracks
and showed us through the hospital. Ob 1 what a con-
trast between British soldiers' barracks and hospitals and
the Turkish, the latter are dirty and the men dirty, squat-
ing round the rooms and lounging on their little dirty
looking beds, and the hospital was even worse ; the smell
was intolerable, the boards black and greasy, in fact every-
thing was filthy and smelled strongly of oil and garlic.

We thanked the officer and left the barracks.

One of the Greeks who accompanied us took us to a
friend's house where we had luncheon, which consisted of
rolls of brown bread, cheese, salad, cakes and coffee ;
after which we hired six Turkish ponies and started of!
to visit the ruins of the ancient city of Nicropolis. A ride
of fifteen miles in an easterly direction from Frevisa. was
soon passed in pleasant and cheerful company ; the beauiy
of the groves, the luxuriant vegetation, the mild and
balmy air, all conspired to add to the pleasure of the ride ;
and now we are approaching the ancient city. What do
we see ? Before us immense ruins for miles around, old
walls towering high in the air, wide enough to drive a
coach and four on their top, with high arched doorways.
A large amphitheatre with massive stone seats, encircled
by a colossal wall, surmounted with ancient-looking
figures in marble, half man, half beast.

After visiting a great many of these wonderful old
ruins and learning all we could of their ancient history
from our guide, who was well intbrmed and could make

TBI BOBBffBS' OAYl.

489

himself understood in English, — at his suggestion we
took a detour to visit souie robbers' oaves, which he said
were worth seeing.

One of the wild, deep passes through which he led us
is celebrated as the scene of the exploits of a robber chief-
tain, named Abdallah Niebhr. No one could go through
this narrow pass without his sanction. The solitary pe-
destrian as well as the grand carriage were alike the
objects of his plunder. The whole country stood in fear
of him ; travellers trembled at his name ; a pasha on one
occasion, attempting to pass hero with his retinue, was
shot dead by this daring bandit. For over forty years he
contrived to elude capture and prosecuted his career of
bloodshed, plunder, and crime. At last he and his accom-
plices fell into the hands of the Turkish authorities and
were sent to Constantinople. The passage is now safe
and has been for many years, but the remembrance of
these bloody atrocities often sends a thrill of terror
through the heart of the timid traveller. Continuing our
journey through olive groves, we arrived at our friend's
house at seven o'clock, and had just time for a bath be-
fore dinner. This refreshed us after our journey in the hot
sun and also increased our appetites to relish the dish
of lamb, roast whole, and stutifed with rice and pistachios,
besides other trimmings, consisting of rolls of brown
bread, eggs fried in butter, cheese, garlic and oil, fruit and
vegetables. Dinner being over, coffee was handed round,
and at ten o'clock we retired to rest. After a good night's
resi we were up early and had a Turkish bath. This is

Y^W^.^^

V-.

4|90

THE TURKISH BATHS.

by far tlie best fitted and most useful part of tbe whole
establishment. It comprises a suite of three rooms, the
first is a square apartment, chiefly constructed of marble,
and terminating in a cupola studded with little panes of
glass, through which the light enters ; a deep reservoii
attached to the outer wall, with an opening which is
heated by a furnace built under it, a number of pipes
attached to the furnace circulate through the walls of the
bath and throw great heat into it. A graceful fountain
conducts the water from the reservoir, and on each side
of the fountain is a low wooden platform which serves aa
a seat for bathers, who sit cross-legged, and undergo a
long and complicated process of washing and scrubbing.
The second room is called the Touklouk, is construced
very much in the same style, but is smaller and has no
furnace but a marble platform upon which mattresses
and cushions are placed for the use of those who wish to
repose between intervals of bathing, or do not wish to
face the cooler temperature of the Hammam (the first
room). This room is furnished with sofas, on which the
bathers rest and dress after quitting the bath. Turkish
women are very fond of this bath, and capable of remain-
ing for hours together in that hot and depressing atmos-
phere. They smoke cigarettes, eat fruit and sweets, and
drink sherbet ; and finally, after all the blood has rushed
to their heads and their faces are crimson, they wrap
themselves in soft garments and pass into a third or
outer chamber, where they repose on a luxurious couch
imtil their systems shake ofi* part of the heat and languor

}{-fr'^J-W^

,>'^:'',-.v ">-:

THE COFFEE-HOUSES

491

that these baths produce. A bath being an indispensabla
appendage to every house, one is to be found in every
Turkish dwelling.

The outer bath room is a large stone building, lighted
by a cupola, with wooden platforms running all round,
upon which small mattresses and couches are spread for
the men. A fountain of cold water stands in the outer
hall of the public baths. Coffee houses are to be met
with everywhere, and are very numerous in the towns.
The Albanians resort to them when they leave their home
early in the morning to take a cup of coffee and smoke a
nargile before going to business. In the evening they
step in to have a chat with their neighbours and hear the
news of the day. Turkish newspapers are becoming com-
mon of late in these coffee-houses, and are to be found in
all of them. Few of the^e establishments possess an in-
viting exterior or can boast any arrangements with regard
to comfort or accommodation ; a few mats are placed round
on a raised seat, and some low stools for strangers ; small
gardens are attached to some, where the Turk may be seen
sitting cross-legged and smoking his tchibouk, while others
atone for the deficiencies of their interior by the lovely
situation they occupy in this picturesque and luxurious
land. What a Turk heartily enjoys is his tchibouk and
coffee, sitting by the side of a running stream, or in some
spot commanding a fine view. This quiescent pleasure
he calls " taking kaif " (comfort) ; on the whole his
capacity for enjoyment is rather of a passive than an
wtivt kind. The costume worn by ladies consists of a

! . <

rr7

492

TUBKISU LADIES' COSTUME.

gown of cloth or damask silk, with a border of similu
workmanship; opening upon the breast. It displays «
handsome white silk gauze frill around the neck ; the
sleeves hang loosely at the wrists, covered by a velvet
jacket, richly worked with gold thread ; indoors they
wear a red cap covered with pearls and precious stones;
the slippers are equally adorned with embroidery and I
jewels according to the rank of the lady. The yaskmakj
(veil) and feridji (cloak) are universally worn by the Turk-
ish women of all classes out of doors. The former varies!
according to the rank aud place of residence of the wear-l
ers, from ordinary calico to the finest tarlatan, while the!
letter may be of almost any colour or material, but greenl
is the prevailing colour ; the trousers of red silk hangingl
loosely over a high-heeled and neat fitting yellow morocoo|
boot, with wrinkles over the ankle. As we were stanc
in the consul's office getting our passports vized, Sergeantl
Parkinson's rifle was accidentally discharged, the bulletl
passing through the ceiling over the office. The consul'sj
lady had a narrow escape, for the bullet passed through|
her dress. After paying the consul fifty cents each for
having our passports vized, ami thanking our friend for
the attention shown us while at his house, we departed,!
rowing back to Santa Maura, where we arrived at nine
o'clock in the evening, after enjoying three days' pleasur
which will be long rcmeniborcd by us.

At Christmas, the sergeants gave a ball, and issue
invitations to several friends and a few civilians. Dancingj
comiuoncud at eight o'clock and kept up with "esprit'

■^^i ^ ' .!"'5*/^^

^ .^;^s

lOKIAN ISLANDS CEDED TO THE ORj;:E£S.

403

till twdve, when supper was announced, after which the
president proposed the health of the Queen, which Was
drunk with a right royal good will, the band playing the
National Anthem, and afterwards toasts, songs and
speeches were indulged in by many round the board ;
when dancing was again resumed, and kept up till the
small hours in the morning.

On the 9th of May, 1863, we were relieved at Santa

Maura by a detachment of the 9th Regiment, the " Holy

Boy8,"who arrived from Corfu in the morning, by steamer,

I and we embarked on the same steamer in the afternoon

I for Corfu, arriving there by five o'clock next morning,

! when we were ordered on detachment at Vedo, a small

island close to Corfu, but a strong fortification, com-

^manded by Colonel Sankey, of the 9th Regiment, where

{ garrison duty and field days are frequent.

On the Cth November, the British government agreed
I to give up the Ionian Islands to the Greeks. On the 1st
of January, 1864, Colonel Hobbs took command of the 2nd
Battalion 6th Royal Regiment, vice Colonel Fraser, and
on the same day we commenced to blow up the forts be-
fore giving up the island to the Greeks. In Vedo, the
lunette and keep were blown up by the end of January,
and Fortneuf and the citadel were all demolished by the
jlstof March, 18C4. ^.

On the 4th of March, 18(14, the 2nd Battalion 6th
I Royal Regiment embarked on board of H. M.S. Orontes,
for Jamaica, in the West Indies, At two o'dock in the
ifternoou we steamod out ''*' the harbour and bid farewell

t-i.'-:

■'^>''

4^4

LEAVE EUROPE FOR THE WEST INDIES.

.>^-''

to the Ionian Islands. The weather was fine and clear,
the water blue and smooth ; our ship glidtd onwards at
the rate of ten knots an hour, soon leaving the land far
behind. In the evening the moon shone forth in all her
glory and brightness on the face of the smooth, blue waters
of the Mediterranean.

On the evening of the third day we sighted Mount
Etna, raising its fiery summit towards the sky, and send-
ing up volumes of fire and smoke as it were among the
stars, illuminating the country for miles round. Many of
us stopped on deck till a late hour watching this grand
phenomenon.

On the morning of the 10th of March, we arrived at
Gibraltar, and moored alongside the Neyr Mole. Here
the regiment disembarked and encamped on the New
Mole for a week, with a view to the health of the troops,
during which time the ship coaled, cleaned, and was fumi-
gated. At the same time the troops got their linen washed,
and everything clean and ready for the long voyage to
the West Indies. • • '

On the 17th of March we again embarked, and in the
afternoon moved out from our moorings and proceeded
round the New Mole, and passed Bona-visfca Barrack,^
when we bid a last farewell to the old rock of Gibraltar,
and, as the day was well advanced, hastened on so as to
pass through the straits before dark. Early next morn-
ing we passed the southerly point of Europe, and as we
steamed on we gradually lost sight of the land, which was
beautifully illuminated by the rising sun, affording us a

'/■-''

THS PEAK OF TENERIFFE.

495^

faint view of the sun-scorched peaks of the African coast.
The weather was delightful, with scarce a ripple on the«
water.

On the morning of the 21st of March, we passed close*
to the beautiful island of Madeira. The first impressions'
of this island are delightful and striking, with its luxuri*'
ous gardens smiling with gorgeous flowers, and its moun-
tam sides cultivated almost to their summits with beauti"
ful plants. Nature exhibits herself here with such varied!
charms that imagination can scarcely picture a lovelier
seene.

The product which has made the name of Madeira fa<
I mous and familiar is its wine, now produced in great
[quantities; this and the cultivation of the sugar-cane
form its principal trade. At twelve o'clock we passed
the Desertas, a group of barren rocks. These rocks appear
to be only frequented by fishermen. One of these isles
is a high pyramidal rock which, at a distance, very much
I resembles a sail.

March 23rd. At daylight the brilliant light on Cape
ITeneritfe was descried ahead. We ran in for the land,
jind the high precipitous rocks, all bleak and bare, here
[ind there broken by deep and rugged clefts, rose in bold
[outline before us. Somewhat later, as the clouds cleared
iaway, the celebrated Peak was in sight, a grand and soli-
Itary object towering to the clouds in seeming desolation ;
[for, though there is a certain amount of fertility on its
liides, it was not apparent as we approached it. By eight
lo'clock we ran into the wharf at Santa Cruz, and nfter b-^

486

8AKTA CRUZ.

visit ftam the health officer, all were tree for a run on shore
while the ship was coaling. There is little at Santa Cruz
itself to interest the stranger. The houses are poor struc-
tures, the streets narrow, hut they are kept very clean ;
there are no public buildings with any pretensions to
taste or elegance. Nevertheless, one is repaid for a
stroll in the country, where the scenery is remarkably
wild and impressive — deep ravines, from which bold rocks
rise abruptly, void of every trace of vegetation except a
few cacti and other hardy plants.

There is a sort of wondrous grandeur in this volcanic
scenery — in the scorched craters of these enormous rocks,
ribbed at the sides, no traces of life, no appearance of
vegetation — all is arid, dry and parched, while away to
the southward can just be discerned a fine picture of
woodland scenery, arresting the eye at once by its great
contrast, and as it were, compelling one to admire the
extreme beauty afforded by the charming landscape.
Here and there were noticed enclosures of cacti, used in
rearing the cochineal, which, with the castor-oil plant,
appears to be largely cultivated fpi exportation. I and two
sergeants with our wives, entered a saloon to take refresh-
ments, as well as to learn the custom and habits of the
people. During the time we were enjoying the lunch, we
heard the landlady say to her husband in Spanish, " charge
them English well, they have plenty of m«"?ey," fortu-
nately one of the sergeant's wives, being a Spaniard, un-
derstood what was said, when they had a most amusing
row in the Spanish language, the landlady coming off se-

» f

w f

ADUIBAL NELSON Al lENER^TFB.

497

Lta Cruz
jr struc-
y clean ;
Lsions to
id for a
aarkably
old rocks
except a

volcanic
3U8 rocks,
larance oi
i away to

Eicture of
its great
draire the
landscape.
I, used in
■oil plant,
ll and two
e refresh-
fits of the
lunch, we
, " charge
.y," fortu-
^niard, un-
amusing
fng offse-

.•«j

eond best ; she did not get as much out of us as she had
anticipated. Santa Cruz boasts of a very ancient and
time-worn cathedral, which we visited. It was here that
Nelson (1797) undertook an expedition against Teneriffe,
wh^ch, although unsuccessful and disasterous, displayed
great heroism and bravery. The two flags captured on
this occasion are retained in this old cathedral, and the
inhabitants still bear in mind the attack and repulse.
Here the immortal Nelson lost his arm, and it was the
only affair in which he was unsuccessful.

Towards evening we left the harbour of Santa CriUB,
the bright moonlight affording us a capital view of the
Peak, which frowned upon us in all its grandeur, its head
hoary with many a winter's snow. A fine favouring
breeze was with us all night ; at the dawn of the follow-
ing morning the island of Teneriffe was looming far behind
us on the distant horizon. From the present may be
said to commence our dreary, monotonous, long voyage
from the pillars of Heicules in the east across the broad
Atlantic to the West Indies. Life on board ship and
the varied incidents at sea, all tend to rouse feelings and
sensations which are reserved alone for those whose busi-
ness is on the great waters. To the officers and soldiers —
as well as the ladies, the routine on board ship especially
of this splendid transport, was entirely different from
thai, we had hither !'.« enjoyed on shore. Fortunately
*he varied scenes were ut ler most favourable circum-
stances as regards the weather. At first the usages of
aaval overy-day life seemed particularly vexatious, and

■*'^h'ij.

,;• ^ey •

• ■> 'i.^'

r <

p-(.

498

Un ON BOABD SHIP.

vtL

annoying when so many human beings were packed so
cldsely into such a small place ; but after a few days,
when sea-sickness had been got over, one and all per-
ceived, to a certain extent, the necessity of order, cleanli-
ness, and good discipline. Scrubbing, washing, and holy-
stoning the decks, cleaning brass and wood work, the
troops parading, watches assembling, sailors mustering at
quarters and divisions, are all measures which tend to
enforce the discipline so essential to good government
Existence in the limited space of a ship, with so many
troops on board, for weeks completely isolated from the
outer world, is so peculiar and interesting to those unac-
quainted with tha sea, that 1 may be permitted to make
a few remarks as to our daily routine. From the hour
of four o'clock in the morning, as soon as the watch has
, been mustered, bustle and activty begin, lasting through
out the day, and even to the hour when the night re-
minds one of sleep ; pumps are manned, water is splashed
over the decks in all direction, yet it is absolutely essen-
tial to the preservation of the health and comfort of the
troops and those on board. By six o'clock the washing
is nearly finished, when all the hammocks are piped up
and stowed. It is now time for breakfast, consisting of
cocoa and biscuit. The men then prepare and dress for
parade at ten o'clock, which lasts for about an hour. At
noon the dinner bugle soi u^\ and although consisting as
it invariable does, of either salt junk, and plum duff, or j
salt pork and pea soup, there are few men healthier than
ttoldiers while on board ship. Grog time comes next

«'^^;.:W^-

■*'' •' ' >' "«

LIFE ON boa:u> gmp.

491

(when half a gill of rum, lime juice, with two pints of
water are supplied to each man), and with the hour of
smoking, constitutes a pleasant break in the day. Dar-
ing the afternoon, the band plays on the quarter-deck,
and the men sit around in groups, singing dancing, and
all sorts of amusing games until four o'clock, when the
sailors assembled at their stations with rifle, cutlass, and
pistol for inspection by their divisional ofiicers. The
inspection over, the sailors resume their work to make or
furl sail, according to the wind. Supper is now prepared,
consisting of tea and biscuit, after which, at eight o'clock,
smoking is permitted, but not between decks, hammocks
having been piped down at 7:30.

The orderly officers always go the rounds of the decks
to ascertain that all is correct, when those off watch are
expected to turn into their hammocks, and so ends the
day and its duties. This was the routine every day dur-
ing the whole voyage.

At six o'clock the officers, both naval and military,
usually dine together, when the incidents of the day, and
the progress of the ship, and other matters which are sure
to turn up, form a lively conversational hour, during
which time the band plays. After dinner, the assembly
of smokers usually muster on deck, where all sorts of
yarns and topics engross the attention until bed-time.
Sunday alone seems to break the monotony and routine
of every day life at sea ; when, after divine service at ten
o'clock, the remainder of the day is usually spent in read-
ing or sleeping.

500

CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS.

On tho morning of March Slst, we sighted Cape de
Verde Islands, and by two in the afternoon wo took in
coal at Port Grand, St. Vincent ; here we had a good
view of African negroes, who coaled our ship with baskets
which they carried on their heads. They were vety tall
and powerfully built men, with no clothing except a
little round their loins. What a contrast in the scenery
between this place and Madeira I Here are barren rocks,
and not the faintest indication of vegetation f(> be seen
in any direction, although its formation is ^mewhat
similar.

The town, if it can be so named, consists of a few
straggling houses, and the stores of the coal contractors,
situated along the shore, while stretching away behind
are several high, rough and jagged ^i iks and mountains,
affording a fine background for the bairen and uninter-
esting coast scenery.

Next day, at eight o'clock, we reached Santiago, another
island of the same group ; here we stayed for two or
three hours. The houses, with a few exceptions, were
poor specimens of habitations, nearly all built of stone,
and or d story high. The interiors present only a few
articles of absolute necessity; of home comfort or cleanli-
ness, in our sense of the word, they seem to have no idea.

The population appear to be made up of an intermix-
ture of Portuguese settlers and negroes, who cultivate
little patches of land in the valleys where are produced
a few tropical fruits.

During the voyage our drum-major and a private fell

A- :

,' ', ( <■' ;•'■■. r .<

▲BRIVAL AT JAMJLIOA.

501

down the hatch-way ; the soldier was killed, and the
drum-major severely injured, so much so that it laid him
up for ever afterwards.

After parade next morning, the bell tolled, and the
regiment were present to pay their last tribute to their
comrade. The ship's captain read the beautiful and ap-
propriate service for a burial at sea, and on reaching that
portion, " we commit his body to the deep," it was slid
out of the port, wrapped in a hammock, with a round
shot at its feet, into the bright blue deep sea, to be seen
no more until that day when the sea shall give up its
dead.

On the 12th we cast anchor in the harbour of Trinidad,
where two companies were landed on detachment. The
I town has no pretensions to size or elegance, it is,'however,
I most picturesquely situated along the shore of the island,
I backed up by a curiously shaped hill with a large pitch
lake on its summit. .This is a very important port of the
West Indies, particularly for the mail service, some eight
I or ten different lines reaching here monthly.

At four o'clock in the evening we left the anchorage

I under sail and steam, with a fresh evening breeze, running

at twelve knots an hour. On the 18th April, 1864,

at seven a.m., the island of Jamaica was in sight. At
[nine o'clock we took a pilot on board to navigate the ves-
through the intricate and dangerous narrows between
lllie reefs, as the ship approached and rounded Port
IRoyaL We cast anchor in Kingston harbonr,at eleven am.
[As we lay at anchor, the night was indeed beautiful,

' ■ ii

502

orrr of kinguston.

the city ^ith its whito houBes peeping out from amongii
the dark green foKage; with Newcastle looming up in
the diHtance with its white wooden barracks, on the side
of St. Catharine's peak, with its lofty summit towering
towards the heavens, the mountains covered with forests
of mahogany, cedar, yellow sander and coffee plantations,
and the valley covered with large green plantations of
iiugar-cane. Nature was indeed looking charming ; the
view in every direction, was exquisite, — look whtre we
would there was nature's beauties before us. The entrance
to the harbour at the end of Port Royal, broken into little
islands, where tradition says a town was submerged by
an earthquake, the sparkling sea running here and there
iilto creeks, bays and inlets, together with the evergreen
foliage of *tropical trees and flowers, made up a very at-
tractive landscape, which gave us a most favourable im-
pression of Jamaica. Directly in front of us are the land-
ing place and jetties, where several vessels are flying the
flag of Old England.

At four o'clock in the afternoon we disembarked and
formed on the quay, where we were surrounded by a con-
glomeration of the inhabitants of all shades of colour.
After detailing two companies for detachment, one at Port
Eloyal and the other at Uppark Camp, we marched off to
Newcastle, a distance of 18 miles, seven of which were up
a steep mountain zigzag foot-path. The weather being
so hot we did not attempt to march during the heat of
ilay. The word being given, we marched off with the
band playing, followed through the streets by a motley

Nioirr MABCH m Jamaica.

508

erowd of oegroes, mulattoes, and Creoles, raising a cloud
of sand and dnst as we advanced. After a very fatiguing
march of ten miles we halted at a place called the gardens,
where we piled arms and rested for two hours, resuming
our journey at one o'clock in the morning, up a mountain
road which tried many of our best marchers, arriving at
Newcastle barrack at sun-rise, very much fatigued after
the march during the close, warm night. But as wo
marched up the mountain the wild scenery surpassed
anything that I have yet seen, and compensated somewhat
for the fatiguing march ; — the mountain side clothed with
the loveliest tropical fruits, hanging over our heads as we
stooped under them by the way, bananas, mangoes tam-
arinds, pine-apples, pomegranates, bread-fruits, oranges,
lemons, coffee ai^d sugar-cane ; while the air was per-
fumed with the aroma of the sweet-smelling rose-trees,
oleanders, fuschias, myrtles, ferns and odoriferous mag-
nolias, with the deep gullies at our feet where the spark-
ling waters jump and foam as they rush in torrents down
the steep rocks, towards their ocean home.

One must travel a long way indeed before he meets
with prettier sceneiy or a place that will surpass in fra-
grance and loveliness the floral beauty and picturesque
landscapes of this island.

. I

CHAPTER XXVIII.

lAMAlOA — ^THB EXHIBITION— MARKET — KECEPTION— THE COMHISSIOS
— COL. HOBBS — THE VOYAGE — ROUTE — VOYAGE — QUEEN'S BIRTH-
DAY — EDINBURGH — CALTON HILL — TOLBOOTH — QUEEN MARY's

BOOM— DUNOON DISCHARGED^-DALKEITH GLASGOW — EMBARK

FOR CANADA — THE VOYAGE — ARRIVAL — MONTREAL — KINGSTON —
PICTON — THE DUNKIN BILL — THE MARQUIS OF LORNB.

[HE' barracks or camp were situated on a high ridge
of St Catharine's mountain, called Newcastle,
famous for its exhilarating, pure air, with immensely deep
gullies on each side ; each wooden hut, built on terraces,
one above the other, consists of one room. The officers*
quarters were neat little isolated cottages, surrounded
with lovely flowers, trees and shrubs. The parade ground
was a large terrace which hn d been excavated and levelled
with a nice mound round its lower edge, forming a pro-
tnenade as well as a drill ground. We had one large
wooden building where divine service was held by ail de-
nominations in their turn ; it also served as a school-
house and lecture hall. The married sergeants' quarters
were distributed on each side of the ridge, in separate
little cottages, with flower gardens to each. The means
by which the troops were supplied with water was a novel
and most clever proof of our engineer's skill. From the

A FANCX BAZAAR.

505

upper etwl or somrce of the gully stream, which was many
feet above the barracks, the water was conducted along
the brow of the ridge by means of a large trough of bam*
boos resting on trestles, passing into a large reservoir
situated a little above the barracks, from which pipes
conducted the water to the respective quarters and rooms.
Before this improvement, the water had to be carried
from the bottom of the gully in large leather bags by
donkeys and was doled out to the troops daily. Above
the barracks on a flat side of the mountain, Col. Hobbs
apportioned a garden for each company, which we re-
claimed and cultivated, raising almost all sorts of vege-
tables, viz : yams, cocoas, sweet potatoes, cauliflowers, cab-
bages, potatoes, celery, lettuces, &c., besides pine apples
and strawberries, with a variety of beautiful flowers.

Many of the officers and most of the colour-sergeants
kept horses. Being the wine and mess sergeant to the
officers, I had the privilege of keeping four horses, which
I frequently hired out to the officers. These horses enabled
us to travel through the mountainous country for many
miles.

On Christmas eve of 1864, one of our much respected
comrades, Qr-M. Sergeant Thomas Bellinton, died of heart
disease, much regretted by the battalion, leaving a wife
and three small children to mourn his untimely end.

In the beginning of 1865, Colonel Elkington was ap-
pointed Deputy Adjutant-General at Kingston. During
the summer we had an exhibition in the hall of fancy, use-
ful and ornamental articles, manufactured by the soldiers

M''

506 I ^^ APPOINTED OFFICElld'-M£SS SERGEANT.

of the battalion ; and the number of articles, as well aa
the skill manifested in their manufacture, was very much
admired by the visitors from the city of Kingstoti and
the surrounding country. Among some of the distin-
guished visitors present, whose names the author entered
in his note book, were Governor Eyre and lady, General
O'Connor and lady, Deputy Adjutant-General Lieutenant-
Colonel Elkington and lady, and others. Some of the
articles on exhibition were wonderfully good, ami sold at
a high price* A Lancashire weaver made a miniature loom
out of the bones which he saved from time to time, and
wove a miniature web of fine texture on it to the amuse-
ment of those present. This was bought for fifteen pounds.
William Sugden, a carpenter, made a model of the canton-
ment of Newcastle, which was sold to Rev.' Mr. Fife for
fifteen pounds. Henry Foreman made a model battery
from bone— sold for ten pounds ; Corporal Gilchrist, a bed
quilt, sold for nine pounds. Other articles such as fancy
work-boxes, shirt-buttons, and several articles of furni-
ture and wearing apparel, too numerous to mention, were
exhibited and sold. In June, 1865, Sergeant James
Ranee, Officers* Mess Sergeant, died of heart disease, leav-
ing a wife and four children to mourn his loss. I, being
the senior Colour-Sergeant in the battalion, was chosen '
and appointed to the vacancy caused by his death. Ser-
geant-Major Robert Hyde was promoted to Quarter-
Master, and Colour-Sergeant Neale appointed Sergeant-
Major in his place.

We had a market every Wednesday and Saturday

JAMAICA NEOBO ftlOTS.

607

■oimd the canteen, when the negroes from the country
brought in all sorts of produce, some on donkeys, but
most on their heads. A line of black women might be
seen on those days, very early in the morning, coming to
market along the narrow mountain path, with baskets of
yams, cocoas, plantains, bananas, pine-apples, mangoes,
oranges, lemons, bread-fruit and pomegranates, besides
provisions in abundance. The people come miles with
their loads, and barefooted, their clothes tucked up to
their knees by a handkerchief tied round a little below
the hips, securing them in graceful folds, with a light, gay
handkerchief on their heads. They wear light, showy
garments, and are very fond of any common jewellery,
which they wear in their ears and on their fingers.

We were enjoying every comfort in this delightful sta-
tion, when we were aroused by a report that the negroes
had broken out in open rebellion at Morant Bay. It ap-
pears, from what we could learn afterwards, that a loc^l
preacher, named George W. Gordon, had been for some time
urging the black population of Saint-Thomas-in-the-east
to rise in rebellion against the Government, telling them
there were back lands which they could get, and urging
them to pay him money for the purpose of agitation.
This, it is said, was the doctrine he preached in his
chapel. And a few compatriots of his named Paul Bogle,
William Bogle, William Burie, James Burie and others,
were engaged in swearing in, drilling, and organizing
forces in order to attack the white population, when at
dinner on Christmas night, kill them, and take their

508

ATTACK ON MORANT BaY COURT-HOUSB. ^

wives. But an accident occurred which fortunately, nay,
pi-ovid'entially, brought this base conspiracy to light.

On the 7th October, 1865, which was Saturday, and
market day at Morant Bay, a Court of Petty Sessiona
was lield in that town. A man who had been convicted
by the court for some crime, afterwards interrupted the
proceedings of the court, and when the police endea-
voured to arrest him, he was rescued from their hands by
the mob. For this act warrants were issued against two
ringleaders named Bogle, and several others.

On Tuesday, the 10th, six or eight policemen and some
constables proceeded to Stony Gut to execute the war-
rants ; they found Paul Bogle, who, after the warrant for
his apprehension had been read to him, told them that he
would not go with them. When they proceeded to arrest
him, he cried " Help here ! " and immediately a body of
men, from four to six hundred in number, rushed out from
Bogle's chapel and attacked the police ; these men were
armed with muskets, pistols, cutlasses, pikes, sticks and
stones. Th e police were overpowered and severely wonnded
by the mob. In the meantime information of this rising
was at once sent to the custos, Baron Von Ketelfeldt,
who applied to the governor for military aid.

On the 11th a meeting was held at Morant Bay, at
twelve o'clock, and proceeded with its business till about
four, when it was disturbed by the noise of a large crowd
approaching, a few volunteers were drawn up outside the
Court House; the crowd advanced; the Riot Act was
read by a magistrate, when stones were thrown at the

< ♦»^, c ' ■ t

THI 6th ROTAL REODi ENT CALLED 0X7T.

609,

Volunteers, who fired at the mob and retired into tht
Court House, when the infuriated rebels surrounded the
Court House and set fire to it. The inmates were then
compelled to leave the building, and endeavoured to con-
ceal themselves ; some fled with their families into the
woods, but others were dragged from their houses and
hiding places and beaten to death ; some left for dead on
the ground. Women and children fled for their lives into
the woods, and there remained for days and nighls with-
out food or shelter, while their husbands were left mur-
dered. The mob gained strength daily, murdering every
white man they came across. They attacked houses and
villages, and numbers of white inhabitants were killed
and brutally treated. A.t Farrington they halted and or-
ganized in military order, prepared to resist the aiithori-.
ties, and any force that might be brought against them.
On the 21st October, the Maroons marched out to meet
them, when a smart skirmish ensued ; eventually the
Maroons got the best of it when the rebels fled. The let-
ter of Baron Von Ketelfeldt, written on the 10th October,
requesting military aid was taken by the authorities into
immediate consideration, anu within twenty-four hours
of its receipt the 2nd Battalion 6 th Regiment was on
the march to Morant Bay, where troops were also landed
from Spanish town, and martial law was proclaimed in
the affected district. After the troops had arrived, they
took manv of the rebels and had them tried and executed
or flogged, according to the nature and degree of the
offence. George Wm. Gordon was arrested on the I7,th

.■,.,. V

f 510

PROMPT MEASURES OF OOYERNOB ET&S.

and placed on board H. M. S. Wolverine, and conveyeu
to M(>rant Bay, where he was tried by a court martial on
the 20th, and on the 21st found guilty and executed on
the charge of high treason against Her Majesty Queen
Victoria. Paul Bogle was apprehended on the 23rd, and
on the 24th was conveyed a prisoner to Morant Bay,
where he was tried and executed with other leaders.
Had it not been for the prompt and stringent measures
resorted to by Governor Eyre in crushing this rebellion,
before it hud assumed its intended magnitude, no one can
tell how much more innocent blood of Her Majesty's sub-
jects would have been spilled by the semi-savage rebels,
urged on by the preacher. As it was, they murdered
Baron Von Ketelfeldt and other jur^tices of the peace,
altogether they killed and wounded fifty-six white people.
These details disclose the worst features of the negro
character, but when white men urge them on, they are
guilty of the greater sin. The merciless beating to death,
the mutilation of the living and the dead, the delight in
blood and murder, tell how the spirit of the savage still
lurks in the hearts of many of the black population of
Jamaica. The promptness and decision with which
Governor Eyre quelled the rebellion, deserved the appro-
bation and consideration of the Government. Instead of
which, however, he was censured by partisans. The
social circle in England were divided, and controversy
began to rage on the question. In order to satisfy the
public and settle the question, the Crown issued a com-
mission of inquiry.

THE COMMISSION OF INQUIRY.

On the 80th December, the Commission issued to Sir
Henry Storks, "William R. Gumey, Q.C., and Mr. J. R
Maul, requiring them to make full inquiry into the " ori-
gin, nature, and circumstances of the disturbances, and re-
specting the means adopted in the course of the suppres-
sion of the same, and respecting the conduct of those
concerned in such disturbances or suppression." The
gentlemen selected were a sufficient guarantee to the
public that the inquiry would be what it was wished it
should be, — full, searching, and impartial.

The Commission was opened at Kingston, Jamaica, on
January 23rd, 1866, and closed its prolonged sitting on
March 25th. The Commissioners having discharged their
duties with extraordinary industry, and with the ability
and impartiality which were to bo expected of them
They arrived at the conclusion that there was on the
part of the leaders of the rioters a preconcerted plan, and
that murder was " distinctly contemplated." They never-
theless find that there was no general conspiracy against
the Government, and the inference is, that the riot, though
of considerable magnitude and danger, was not the result
of any very long standing organization, and that it was
foolish, barbarous, and wicked in its origin, although of
a local character.

Those who wish to know more about the question can
find it by a search, with moderate diligence, in the blue
books, or the pigeon-holes of the war office. What I as-
sert here is from my own knowledge and experience, being
present during the afiair.

512 THE MARQUIS OF LORKE VISITS JAMAICA.

Sir Henry StorkH was the guest of the officers of the
6th Royal Regiment, for several days after the inquiry
was finished. After the Insurrection, the Maroons were
entertained in the city hall, as a mark of approbation
and gratitude for the manner in which they assisted in
quelling the rebellion. ,

At the end of January, Colonel Hobbs took ill and got
deranged in his mind, when he was placed in the sani-
tarium under surveillance. In February he was sent to
England, accompanied by his wife and family, with two
hospital orderlies, to guard and tend him. During the
voyage, watching an opportunity when walking the deck
he jumped head first down the ashshoot. The ship hove
to at once, boats were lowered to try and rescue him, but
he could not be found ; he sank to rise no more till that
day when the sea shall give up its dead. The regiment
was deeply afiected at this sad intelligence. He was very
much respected by all classes, and his loss to the regiment
was much deplored.

In the summer of 1866, the Marquis of Lome (now Gov-
ernor-General of Canada) visited Jamaica, when he and
his tutor were guests of the officers of the 6th Regiment
at Newcastle. He was tall and slight, and very intelli-
gent, with fair hair, and about eighteen years old. During
the three years we were in Jamaica, we had one officer
(Ensign Newman) and three privates die with yellow
fever.

On the 24th March, Her Majesty's Ship Tamar ar-
rived at Kingston harbour with the 84th Regiment, to

"COMK BACK TO VBSS.

51$

r^evB the 2nd Battalion, 6th Regiment. On the 26th
we marched from Newcastle to Uppark Camp, and there
remained until the 1st April, 1867, when we embarked'
on board the Tamar for Cork. At 2 p. m. we weighed
anchor and steamed out of harbour, rounding Port-Royal,
homeward bound ; when well clear from the land we
picked up the trade winds and ran on merrily through
the Tropics towards the Azores, at the rate of twelve
knots an hour, full of the hope of speedily seeing the
coast of Ireland.

In the afternoons the band played on the quarter-deck,
and every facility was given to the men to enjoy them-
selves by the gentlemanly commander, Captain Sullivan.

The evening of the 6th May, a bright light at Queens-
town harbour was seen, and the next morning we entered
the port and cast anchor off Queenstown, where we hoped
to land. But we were too sanguine ; for after the mails
were brought on board, a large official document was re-
ceived directing the regiment to proceed to Edinburgh,
there to be stationed. After a short stay, we weighed
anchor and steamed out of the harbour, but not before
we got a supply of good fresh bread and beautiful Irish
butter, which appeared to us most delicious, after the hard
tack and salt pork we were so tired of during the voyage.
Next morning, amidst haze and fog, we had our first sight
of the English coast, as we passed up channel amidst a
very maze of shipping, outward and homeward bound.
Onward we go, sighting the old familiar headlands and
land-marks, the Eddystone light, the Start, the wBi'p

£14

ARRIVAL AT EDlNBUnGH.

cliffs of Portland and St. Alban's Head, until, at the lasi,
the Needles were in sight. After a few hours' steaming
through the Solent, we reached Portsmouth harbour and
moored alongside the famous old Camperdown, where we
took in coal, and afterwards steamed out of the harbour,
and steered our course for Scotland.

On the 9th of May, 1867, we cast anchor in the Frith
of Forth, after a dslightful voyage of 40 days. During
the passage many tvents took place, which, although
trivial in themselves, contributed to render the voyage
less tedious and monotonous ; occasionally we spoke or
sighted a vessel, but what seemed to impart an extra in-
terest to our every day lite when clear of tlie Tropics,
was the vast number of seabiil'^ constantly accompanying
us, probably attracted by the numerous fragments of pro-
visions thrown overboard ; cape pigeons, those prettily
marked birds about the size of doves ; the majestic albat-
ross, stormy petrels of all sizes, followed on in motley
groups, never seeming to weary in their search for food.
These birds appear to possess remarkable capacity for re-
membering the exact time when they are likely to get a
feed, for, day after day, soon after noon, the vicinity of
the vessel was usually animated with their shrill shrieking,
and fighting with each other for the dainty morsels j
thrown overboard.

At ten o'clock, a. m., we disembarked at Leith Pier and
marched to Edinburgh Castle, " Modern Athens," amid a
crowd of citizens, the band playing " Blue Bonnets over
the border," and other popular Scottish airs, during the

tm*

^m^

"MODERN ATHENS."

815

last,
ming
r and
re we
ibour,

Frith

Juring

bhougb

voyage

loke or

xtra in-

Tropics,

panying

^ of pro-

prettily

ic albat-
motley
or food,
for re-
to get a
inity of
rieking,
morsels '

|pier and
amid a I
lets over!

Iring M

march through the city to the castle, where we were to
be quartered ; then the usual bustle of taking over bar-
racks, bed-filling, &c., was gone through. Edinburgh ia
a very small garrison, there being only guards to furnish,
viz : The Castle, Holyrood Palace, and Jock's Lodge. The
forces consisted of the 2nd Battalion Cth Regiment and
the 14th Light Dragoons. On arrival the men had a
good sum of ship's clearance to draw, and being flush with
money, made it lively for the police about the Canon-
gate and Lawn market, so much so that the police under-
took to take some of them to the station-house. This
the soldiers strongly objected to, when a fight ensued;
the police got the worst of it, and the soldiers were res-
cued. Afterwards they never attempted to take any of
our men prisoners, instead of which they reported them
at the elderly room, when the offenders were punished
by the commanding ofiicer. During the twelve months
which the 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Regiment was sta-
tioned in Edinburgh, the ofiicers were delighted with the
society, which is regarded as unusually polished, from
the predominance of the professional and literary ele
ments in its composition. This aiises partly from its being
a University town, and partly from the presence of the
Supreme Law Courts of Scotland, all the important legal
business being attracted thither on that account ; the law-
yers have charge of most estates throughout the country,
60 that there are an unusual number of lawyers and ac-
countants ; its medical practitioners, surgeons and physi-
cians have a high reputation. It is much r^orted to for
the sake of education, for its universities and medioal

Kie

SPLENDID YIBW FROM THE CASTLE.

schools, its high schools, and its numerous private schoola
For the poorer classes, part of the enormous funds of
" Heriot's Charity "have been diverted tor cheaper schools
throughout the city. It is largely resorted to by visitors
to the Highlands of Scotland, and h&s an unusual number
of well appointed hotels.

There are four theatres, and abundance of amusements,
including an open-air gymasium, open to the public daily,
admission sixpence. In the southern environs are fine,
open fields, wheire the game " Golf " has been played from
time immemorial. Excellent street-cabs are to be found,
and street cars run on all the principal streets, and to the
suburbs. From the Castle, which crowns the highest point
in the city, a splendid view of Edinburgh and the sur-
rounding country can be obtained. The old town, cluster-
ing along the heights extends gradually along the top and
sides of the ridge which slopes downwards to the east. For
some centuries the city was confined entirely to this ridge,
and was flanked on the north by a marsh called the
Nor' Loch. The Calton Hill offers to the view a wide-
spreading panorama, with the Leaning Tower away in
the distance towards Granton Pier. At our feet are the
jmoking chimneys of "Auld Reekie," from which we
gladly turn our eyes to the blue waters and the shores of
Fife coast, or seek out rest in the shadow of Salisbur}'^
L!rags or Arthur's Seat, the tottering arch and ciiimbling
walls of Holyrood Abbey. The country round is finely
varied on the south, and the richly wooded Corstorphine
Efills,onthe east, all within a mile or two of the city ; while

^ -"^

CANONGATE TOLBOOTH.

517

farther off rise the Pentland hills, four miles to'the South-
west, and to the north the Frith of Forth. In former tiroes,
Edinburgh, with its Castle, was selected as the only place
of safety for the Royal household, the Parliament, the
mint, and various important offices. By this means rising
in importance, it became densely peopled, and the houses
were built to an unsual height, that the inhabitants
might keep within the walls, for the sake of protection.

The stranger who enters what is apparently the ground
floor of one of these houses on the north side of High
Street, is often surprised to find himself, without having
gone upstairs, looking from a fourth story window in the
rear. This is due to the steep slope on which the houses
stand and gives them the command of a beautiful view,
including New Town, and extending across the Frith of
Forth to the varied shores of Fife. The town then con-
sisted of the original High Street, reaching to the Lawn
Market and Canongate, where a heart-shaped figure, on
High Street pavement, marks the spot where the Heart
of Mid-Lothian once stood ; and on the south a narrow
way, called the Cowgate, connected with each other
by several narrow closes and wynds, between dense clus-
ters of houses. Most of these houses consist of a succes-
sion of flats, each being a separate dwelling, and of such
flats there are seldom fewer than six, and sometimes ten
or twelve, towering to an immense height, and rendered
still more imposing from the manner and positioQ in
which they are built.

A striking object in the vicinity is the Canongate Tol-

« I

•f .

I- <-

518 EDINBURGH CASTLB.

booih. with turrets and clock projecting from the front,
on iron bmckets, which have taken the place of the ori-
ginal carved oaken beams. Executions sometimes took
, place in front of this building ; but a more frequent place
of execution was the Girth Cross, near the foot of the
:'Canongate. The citizens remained content with these
-confined limits until the North Bridge was erected, con-
necting the Old Town with the fields in the north, on
which the New Town was beginning to be built. Shortly
afterwards the line of this bridge was extended south-
wards, and thus a level was opened to the southern sub-
urbs, which have since rivalled the New Town in rapid
growth. Thfe Nor Loch was drained, and partially bridg-
ed over by the mound formed from the earth dug from
the foundations of the New Town, and its situation is
occupied by fine public and private gardens, which now
lie in the centre of the city, and separate the New Town
from the Old, where a military band plays every Thurs-
day afternoon, to the delight of the citizens who prome-
nade these gardens. The New Town being built with
much regularity, in straight streets, and in squares and in
cret^cents, with numerous gardens,contrasts with the crowd-
ed though picturesque masses of the Old Town. In recent
years, however, great changes have been made, and several
new streets have been opened through the most crowded
and ruinous localities. Among the most interesting fea-
tures of the city is the Castle, in which are shown the
nncient regalia of Scotland, and Queen Mary's room,
where King James was let down from the window in a

( •■

■/>

PBINOES STUE9I AND CALTON BItIs,

519

^.■.■.'

basket, and Qaeon Margaret's little chapel, whiob stands;,
on the ramparts, close to which is " Mons Meg," said to be^'
the oldest cannon in Great Britain. It is constructed oi
thick staves of wrought iron, with bands of the same
material Hundreds of visitors enter the Castle daily to
see Queen Mary's room, the ancient regalia, and other sub-
jects of great antiquity. Holyrood Palace, which contains
Queen Mary's apartments, in which her bed-room is fur-
nished just as it was when she occupied it ; and the blood-
stained boards in the hall, where Rizzio was murdered,
is plainly yet to be seen. The Bank of Scotland, recently >
rebuilt ; the Scott Monument in Princes Street gardens,
Heriot and DonahJson's Hospital, the Post-Office, the
National Gallery, the University and Museum of Science
and Art, and hotels of Princes Street and George's Street.

These are places of great resort, and well worthy of a
visit from the tourist or stranger. ,

But the New Town has two great features about which
all are agreed. We need hardly say that these are Princes
Street and the CaJton Hill Princes Street extends along
the gardens, from Calton EQll to the West End, and is the^
principal and most beautiful street in the city; Near Calton
Hill stands Burns' Monument, which is a circular building,
with jcolumns and cupola ; it has all the outward appear-
ance of a tomb, so one is rather startled to find it tenant-
ed by a "canny Scot," — ^a live one, — who presides, with
becoming sepulchral gravity, over a two-penny show of
miscellaneous trumpery connected with Robert Bums.

Int)ctober, I went to Dunoon, on a visit to an old

I«\

»i

1 '^^in^mmsmf..r

1 LXAVS HEB MAJESTT'S SEBYICI.

521

friend of mine, who was discharged soon after our arriyaJ
from Jamaica. I went by the Giledonian Railway tio
Glfisgow, thence to Greenock, and by boat to Dunoon,
where I enjoyed myself in one of the most frequented
sea-bathing places and summer resorts in the West of
Scotland. It is situated in the south-west of Argyle-
shire, on the west side of the Firth of Clyde, nine miles
west of Greenock. A village existed here from a very
early date, but a new, well-built town, with fine villas
around, has of late years sprung up. Dunoon Castle, of
which only a small portion now remains, stood on a con-
ical hill. « "tar the pier, and was once a Royal Palace and
strong ) V e 9. The Argyll family once lived here, but
&he buildmg became a ruin over a century ago. After a
week's pleasure, fishing, bathing, and boating, I bade my
friend farewell ; after thanking him much for his attention
and kindness to me during my visit, I left for Edin-
burgh Castle, where I arrived at 6 p.m.

The 2nd Battalion 6th Royal Reji^iment was stationed
in Edinburgh Castle over twelve months, when they got
the route for Aldershot camp, on the SOth May, 1^68.
Previous to the regiment leaving, I got my discharge on
the 26th May, 1868, after twenty one years' service of
Her Majesty.

I Away with my firelodk !

Here, take my red ooat t
On military glories,
Nc Ipnger 111 dote.

\ , •

0f9 DALKEITH PAIAC&

No daring adventures
Shall rise in my breast ;

The old soldier subsides,
And ambition's at rest.

Nor will ever the sound
Of the trumpet or drum

Warn the broken soldier
Of fierce battles to come. •

So hie for the land

Where the green maples grow,
Where the beaver and muskrat

Find a home in the snow.

I parted (with the 6tli Regiment and my red coat with
the deepest sorrow, and lost my regimental home and
friends. I afterwards went to Dalkeith, a pensioner and
civilian, and was employed as mess-man to the Duke
of Buccleuch's regiment of militia, the "Duke's Canaries,"
during their training. This town is about seven miles
from Edinburgh, stands near the junction of theNorth and
South Esk, and is a station of the North British Bailway.
It chiefly consists of one main street. It is one of the
largest grain markets in Scotland, with a large and com-
modious market hall. Dalkeith Palace, the chief seat of the
Duke of Buccleuch, is a large, square structure overhang-
ing the North Esk, amid fine grounds, in which the Esks
flow and unite. The Duke's chapel stands within the
palace grounds. While in Dalkeith, I received two en-
couraging letters from Canada, one from my sister and the
other from my nephew, advising me to come to Canada.

-Vb'

/;"

I TAKE PASSAQE FOB CANAIU.

523

After the training was over, I sold out my fnmiturebj
auction, and proceeded by the North British Railway to
Glasgow, where I took an intermediate passage for Canada
for my wife, daughter and myself, on board the steam-
ship iSi^. Andrew, Captain Scott, one of the Allan line,
which was to sail on Tuesday, 14th July, 1868, for Quebec,
This left us five days to wait in Glasgow, during which
time I took the opportunity of visiting many interesting
places in this industrial metropolis of Scotland, and one
of its largest and most important cities. It is situated on
the Clyde, in Lanarkshire. This river divides the north
from the south side of the city, and is crossed by^ve
bridges^ much admired for their light and graceful archi*
tecture, and suspension bridges besides. Below the bridges
ferry-boats ply at all hours. The city has somewhat a
smoky aspect, while many of the streets are continually
thronged with passengers, and noisy carts, cabs, and om-
nibuses. In other respects it has many attractions.

The houses facing the river stand well back, leaving
spacious thoroughfares on each side, and affording full
and noble views of the bridges, and of the harbour with
its steam-funnels and forests of masts ; most of the lead-
ing streets run from east to west, parallel to the river,
and almost all the streets are laid off in straight lines.
The houses are generally lofty, and built of freestone ;
the floors of each tenement, being occupied by separate
families, are entered by a common stairs.

Many of the public buildings deserve notice. The
Cathedral is one of the finest churches in Scotland. The

^\^,M

524

THE CITY OF GLASGOW.

Royal Exchange, on Queen street, several of the hanksi
and many of the churches, likewise present fine specimeni
of architecture in a variety of styles.

The several equestrian statues include those of William
III., at the Cross, the Duke of Wellington, in front of the
Boyal Exchange, and Queen Victoria, in George's Square.
In the Green, there is an obeliskl44 feet high, to Nelson,
forming a conspicuous object in the landscape. In
George's Square there is a statue of Sir Walter Scott, a
fine statue of Sir John Moore, a statue of James Watt,
and a statue of Sir Robert Peel. Charitable institutions
and benevolent societies abound. There are several
theatres knd museums, and numerous halls in which
soirees and concerts are held nightly during the winter.

The wealthier inhabitants migrate to the coast in
shoals during the summer, and cheap Saturday excursions
by river and rail, are extensively taken advantage of by
the working classes. To the north-west of the city is a
botanic garden, which is thrown open every summer dur-
ing the fair holidays, at a mere nominal charge. With the
additional attractions of the conservatory, large numbers
visit these gardens! There are several cemeteries in the
vicinity, of which Sighthill is the most picturesque.

There are besides, four public parks, one in each quarter
of the city, namely, the Green, occupying the level next
the Clyde at the east end ; Queen's Park, finely situated
on a rising ground in the south; Kelvin Grove, rounding
the face of the hill, crowned with noble terraces, au^
•loping down to the Kelvin, at the west end of the city.

>•■' 1

TH£ CLYDB.

525

Otur time here was short ; the ship sails at six o'clock
this evening.

After paying the landlord at the George Hotel, we (Vove
to the Broomielaw, where the ship lay alongside the wharf,
when we went on board, and at 6.15 p.m. we sailed with
the tide. As we steamed out slowly among the shipping
in the harbour, the town of machinery and tall chittmeys
out of which interminable serpents of smoke tittiled
themselves for ever and ever, and never got uncoiled ;
the Clyde, as the tide receded, looked like a river that
ran purple with ill-smelling dye, and vast piles of build-
ings full of windows, where there was a rattling and
trembling all day long; and where the piston of the steam
engine worked monotonously up and down in a state of
madness. It was a lovely evening in July. The sun
was throwing a hazy light across the landscape on either
side of the Clyde as we proceeded ; where rich golden
harvest fields waved, and the perfume of a thousand
flowers was wafted by the zephyrs, which sighed among
the young leaves, and a thousand songsters sent forth
their melody in joyous chorus. As we passed Greenock
we could not help admiring the large rectangular build-
ings, containing an endless uumber of windows garnished
with machinery, pipes pufling steam, and long chimneys
vomiting smoke. As we »teamed down, so narrow and
crooked was the liver in places that we ran aground at
7.15 p.m., when we had a delay until two tug steamers
came and pulled us off, when we continued our couiM,
f nd cast anchor off the tail of the bank at 8.15 p.m. Here

:'-s,

626

"MT KATIVE LAND, GOOD KlOHTl*

we were delayed until 2 p.m. next day, when we weighed
anchor and steamed down the Firth of Clyde, with one
hundred and seventy passengers on boaid, westerly, and
a head wind, making eight knots an hour. The night
was lovely, the clear, bright moon threw a silvery light
athwart the face of the deep, glistening waters, as our ship
dashed onwards, reaching Kingston at 10 a.m next day,
where we cast anchor, and witnessed a regatta. The har-
bour was so crowded with yachts that we had to anchor
at its mouth.

At 11 a.m. we weighed anchor again and were piloted
outside of Howth. Passing the Isle of Man and calling
at Moville in Lough Foyle, where we took the mails and
more passengers on board. After some other prelimi-
naries with the authorities on shore, we finally went to
sea against a stiff head-wind that dashed the long swells
of the broad Atlantic over our decks, and laid most of
the passengers on their backs in the agony of sea-sick-
ness.

Oh ! what a miserable thing is a voyage at sea in
rough weather. The ocean and sky are beautiful things
when seen from green woods and waving meadows, or
some solitary tower by some pebbly beach. But their
picturesque effect loses its charms for want of contrast.
After the first two or three days, however, the weather
became more favourable and the sea calmer. Many of
the passengers had got over their sea-sickness, but the
eternal sameness of everything around grows every day
less supportable. The monotony of the voyage, however.

TBI DOCTOR'S 8T0RT.

527

was greatly diversified by the ship's doctor, whose amush
ing stories, funny anecdotes and puzzles (the lattmr were
his own invention) had not only alleviated the agony. of
sea sickness to an amazing extent, but had the passengers
in roars of laughter during the most of the voyage. He
possessed the real faculty of a genuine story-teller. There
was a wondrous aptitude in the way in which he would
vary a tale or anecdote to suit the tastes of the audience,
while his moralising invariably took the tone of a hum-
oristic quiz on the company. When I think of his
amusing stories, anecdotes, rich Scotch accent and ges-
ture, without a smile upon his countenance when every
bodyelse was in roars of laughter, I can scarcely restrain
myself from again giving vent to immoderate laughter.

I will endeavour, for the edification of my gentle reader
to recount, as near as I possibly can, one of the many
thrilling stories which he related.

*' Jus' afore the Crimean war broke out," commenced
the doctor, " I've had the honour o' being an assistant sur-
geon on board H. M. ship Terrible, commonly ca'd Black
Sea Cat. Weel dee I remember that same time, ma'sel'
had na' o'er much o' the warl's-gear then, we were, up the
Caspian Sea. Sune after castin' anchor i' a cosie nook a
pairty whilk consisted o' ma'sel', twa officei's, an' twelve
sailors an' marines were sent ashore by the skipper tae
survey alang the valley o* the Volga. We took twa tents,
rifles an' ammunition wi' three days' cooked rations. We
advanced about three miles an' pitched our tents dose by
a clear stream whilk wimplined thro' a charmin' valley,

i z

■•1

528

THE DOCTOB IK A TIGHT FLAGS.

>f,

;■ J '

f ■•(,

■»;

the picturesque appearance o' whilk was heightened hj
the surroundin' craigs an' chasms. After supperJ lit ma
pipe an' started off for a lang walk by the braes ' the
riyer.

" ' Sandy/ said Donald Beggbie tae ma'sel*, ' if you're
gOin' frae a lang walk ye'd meikle need tae tak' yer rifle
i' yer hand, frae ye dinna ken the number o' wild beasts
that infect thae regions.'

" I hesitated for a moment deliberatin' on the proposi'
tion, but I concluded not tae encumber ma'sel' wi' it, sae
aff I dawnerd quietly alang the river, till I fin' ma'sel' on
the tap o' the highest peak enjoyin' ma smeek an' feastin'
my een on the magnificent scenery aroun' as far as the
ee could see. Some hundreds o' feet below I could hear
the rushin' waters boundin' an' foamin^ alang its rugged
channel. While e'er an' anon the howls an' cries o' vari-
ous wild beasts assailed my ears wi' a wierd f eelin' o'
solitude an' desolation ; a' taegether the picture was grand
out awe-inspirin'. While speculatin' on the picturesque
scenery aroun' I was unconscious o' the flight o' time.
Seein' that the sun was fast descendin' below the horizon
I retraced my steps slowly towards ma camp, ruminatin'
o'er ma past follies, when I was roused frae ma reverie by
a low growl an' crashin' o' braken' branches amang the
whins an' haggs. This startled me vera much, an' I
quickened my pace. I hadna proceeded far afore anither
growl much louder than the first warned me o' my danger.
I therefore hurried on at a rapid pace, hopin' tae outstrip
any wild animal that might be lurkin' i' the shrubs. In*

'-^V

PUBSUSD BT A ORIZZLT BEAR.

529

itmct tald me tliat I was pursued, when on lookln*^ ahint
1 discovered tae my horror a meikle grizzly bear f ollowin'
i' my fitsteps at a rampageous pace. The cauld perspira--
fcion poured aff me as I realized the extent o' my danger.
Sairly did I regret my disregeerd for Donald's wamin'/
by no armin' ma'sel' wi' my rifle previous tae leavin' ma
tent. But I hadna time for reflection for the bear was fast
olosiix' on me. Weol mon I dinna ken fat tae dae, wild
wi* terror I rin at the tap o' my speed roun* a stey brae
whilk I wanted tae put atween ma'sel' an' bruin. For a
short time I lost sight o' my pursuer an' began ta breathe
mair freely. I rin alang the shelter o' thae craigs for some
distance an' thocht that I had eluded my dreadf,u' enemy.
But bruin anticipatin' me, took a short cut an' cam' out
on the paith afore me. Bewildered to deeth wi' fright I
turned tae the left an' rin up a stey cliff at ma vera at-
most speed, thinking tae evade the brute. By the time
I reached the tap o' the craig the brute was clase ahint me,
Mad wi' deep despair I seized a mickle stane about five
pun's weight whilk lay at ma fit, the only ane I cauld
fin' an' wap at him wi' a' my micht, straikin', the boast on
the side w* a thud. A loud, angry growl was a* the effect

the wap had on him. I hadna e'en a kebbie nar stane by
ma tae defin masel' wi' but the fme I hurdled at him.\
I noo gav' up a' hope o' escape, thar I stood wi' the
yawnin' precipice on ane side an' the grizzly bear on the
ither. If a riever ha' pointed a loaded seven shooter
at ma head, I wouldna ha'e felt half the terror that
[eaiu!) o'er me. I could neither advance na' retreat, sae

\ '"

580

▲ STBUaOLE FOB LTFS.

thar I ttood tremblin' an* glarin' at the beast waitin' foi
ma fate. I wasna kept lang i' suspense, for the beat
giv* sio a loud growl whilk went thro' my brain as if
pierced wi' a riflo bullet, gav' ane jump on his hin legs, wi'
his moutb»open, and seized ma'sei with his tusks at the
same time sinkin' his lang tusks i' my shudher. I' the
tussle that ensued we baith fell o'er the edge o' the cli£F
an' rolled doon hirdie girdieane o'er the ither, about sixty
feet Luckily for me w^ landed on the fedge o' a rock
whilk o'er-hung the deep chasm, I might ha'e bin mair se-
riously injhred i' the descent only bruin hugged me vara
closely in his embrace. While he was squeezin' me tae
death i' his strong arms, wi' his tusks sank i' my shoudher,
I betho' o' my skenedhu an' wi' tlie greatest difficulty
I worked baith my hands doon atween me an' the
brute, an' tiikin' out my skene by a superhuman effort,
I opened it wi' my left hand. I then felt for a safe
spot o' his baggie. Bad luok till the tailor that mad'
yer breeks, fat a ticht fit he gav' ye, said I tae ma'sei
as I plunged my sharp skenedhu intil his stamach an'
ripped him open, whan wi' a deein bellow he relaxed
his grip an' fell dead beside me. At the same time I
fainted awa, I dinna ken hoo lang I lay there inscii-
sible. On survivin' a wee bit, I ken'i the birr o' my
pairty wha cam' after me aboon me on the tap o' the clitf.

** ' Thar's bin a fichthere/ said one.

* ' Some wild beast has attacked him.'

**See here's whar they baith fell o'er.' said anither
The next moment I heard my name ca'ed by Donald, 1
answered him as loud as I was able.

I V

'■w

THE DOOTOB VIOJOBIOUa

« * What's the matter, Sandy, whar are thee laddie^' '
■aid he.

"'Ah 1 mon come doon afore I dee/ said I as loud as I
eould hollow. They clambered doon alang the side
o' the steep brae an' foun' ma'sel' awf u' bad wi' pain, lyin'
alang side the dead bear. They then houk9t some mg->
aag steps wi' a pick an' shovel one o' the pairty hid
fetched frae the tent on first discoverin' my ][>ositioa
Then wi' their assistance I herpled up the stops, I was
taken tae the tent, awfu' bad wi' a sarkfu'-o'-sair-bones,
thence on boord o' ship whar I lay on ma baok for many
a lang day ere I recovered. Fever ha'in' set in !soui>
quent o' the scaur an' the fearful scaith i' my shoulder,
tagither wi' many ithar scoups an' the squeezin' the beast
gav' me. When I recovered ye wouldna hae known mt
I looked sae scranky. Ne'er sin' ha'e I disregeerded a
comrade's wamin' whilk i' this case would ha'e saved ma
frae a fearf u' adventure," .

The doctor's stoiy drew forth immense applause from
the audience.

^ On Sunday, the 26th, we sighted St. Peter's light, New-
foundland, the coast of which looked bare and bar-
ren with heaps of snow on the hills. Next day we passed
a small village called Port Basque, which is the telegraph
station of the Atlantic' Cabla from Ireland via Heart's
Content, thence to Cape Breton and to Nova-Scotia. As
we sailed up the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the sea becauM
ealm, all hand^ got well of their sea-sickness, and were in
good spirits, with excellent appetites.

6dS

▲BBIVAL IN CANADA.

Wedn^4ay 29ih steamed along the coast of Lowei
Canada, but a thick fog came on which caused much de-
lay. However, now and then the fog cleared away for a
short time as it were to let us have a bird's-eye view of
the country on either side of us. The houses were all
white and built of wood. The land for the most part ap-
peared covered with thick forests; but near the villages were
some spots cleared and under cultivation which weregreen
with either grass or crops After a pleasant voyage of fif-
teen days, we arrived at Quebec, on the 30th July,
where we took the express train to Montreal, and put up
at the Albion Hotel. The soeneiy along the line of the
railway seemed to me so strange; the country was
covered with wood; wherever I looked there was wood.
Next morning we took the train for the ancient city of
Kingston, where we stayed till next day, when we took
the steamer Bay of Quints^ for Picton. The prospect
along the banks of the beautiful Bay of Quinte was
delightful ; the evening being salubrious and pleasant I
stayed on deck during the voyage ; I was so enchanted
with the wild landscape and picturesque scenery, which
produced the most enjoyable panoramic view imaginable.

On arrival at Picton, I had a delightful holiday visit-
ing my relatives, who drove me all over the county of
Prince Edward, and introduced me to their acquaintances,
who manifested the greatest friendship and consideration
towards me. Picton, being most charmingly situated on
a gently rising ground at the head of the Bay of Quinte,
afforded myself as well as many other strangers and lovers

PIOTON.

of the picturesque, who visit this favoured locality during
the summer months, much pleasurable delight during our
walks and drives, consequent on the excellent roads,
nhady avenues and long sweeping vistas, which abound
throughout the country, especially those leading towards
the famous Sand Banks, where thousands of excursionists
and pic-nic parties regale themselves on the green turf,
beneath the wide spreading branches of pine groves, and
other coniferous trees, which abound in close proximity
to this famous locality. The Sand Banks themselves are
deserving of mention in this category. Like the pyramids
of Egypt, as you approach them the eye becomes bewil-
dered as you gaze on their vast proportions. For miles
along the shores of Lake Ontario, where the storms of
medieval ages have been rearing these Sand Banks to an
immense height, their appearance, however, are greatly
enhanced as you approach them, in consequence of their
whiteness glistening in the summer sun, somewhat re-
sembling snow-capped mountains, when seen in the dis-
tance. A xisit to them never fails to impress the tourist
or excursionist with a feeling of pleasurable delight. Like
the Toboggan slides in winter, these Banks afford a simi-
lar amusement in summer, for the lovers of exhilarating
exercise and wholsome amusement, especially the young
people of both sexes, who climb to the summit, and roll
down to their base. The sand is so clean and white that
instead of soiling one's clothes, it cleans them beautifully.
In close propinquity to these Sand Banks, are excellent-
ffhcilities for boating, fishing, and bathing ; and beside^ the

184

THE MARQUIS OF LOBNS.

hotel accommodation cannot be surpassed at anj fresh-*
water summer resort in Canada^

There are many other natural curiosities proximate to
Picton, amongst the foremost of these is the far-famed
Lake on the mountain, where the bay steamers call twice
(faily during the summer months, and land their precious
freight of pleasure seekers.

Space will not admit of a more definite description of
Picton and its environs ; suffice it to say that I became so
captivated with this charming locality, that I settied
down in Picton, and adopted it as my future home.

About four p.m., the 29th May, 1879, His Excellency the
Right Honourable the Marquis of Lome, and His Royal
consort, Princess Louise, arrived at Kingston, for the pur-
pose of laying the corner-stone of the Queen's Colleger
having been invited for that purpose by Dr. Grant, the
Principal of the Queen's University. On arrival, the
Royal guests were received by the corporation and other
civic dignitaries, professors, and officers of the Royal Mili-
tary College. A Royal salute was fired from J^ort Henry.

After the singing of " God save the Queen " by over one
thousand little children, the Mayor read the address of
welcome to the Koyal guests, which was graciously re-
sponded to by his Excellency in a loud, clear, and distinct
voice. After which a procession was formed, sand the
Vice-Regal party entered their carriage, which was drawn
by four horses with postilions, and escorted by a troop
of cavalry. The procession moved off amid loud cheer-
ing ^m the citizens, who lined the streets, which were

>..<|«»^:'^-X* ^■4Hliyiit.«»>i«Ml£>tl J.;

i-.^^^fam

B. ft. B. PBIMCESS LOUISE.

533

beautifully decorated with splendid arches^ appropriat«
mottoes, and evergreens. The Princess looked very much
pleased, and bowed most graciously to the delighted
crowd. His Excellency and the Princess alighted from
their carriage at Mr. Qeo. A. Kirkpatrick's house, where
they were guests.

In the evening His Excellency and the Princess held a
drawing-room in the City Hall, which was beautifully
iUuminated, and fitted up with swords and bayonets,
forming most exquisite designs and mottoes tastefully
arranged.

Next day His Excellency and H. R. H Princess Louise
laid the comer-stones, one on each side of the front
entrance of the Queen's College, and planted two trees^
one of maple and the other of birch, in front of the
entrance to the college, after which the degree of L'. L.IX
was conferred on the Marquis by the Chancellor, who
delivered to him the diploma, which was a beautiful work
of art, being embossed on parchment in India ink and
gold, with Boyal Arms, and the crest of the noble House
of Argyll, within a chaste and elaborate border of the
scenery, views, and buildings of the city. Tuesday m6rn-
ing, the Vice-Regal party left Kingston, by the steamer
Spartarif en route for Quebec. As the steamer moved
out from the wharf, a royal salute was fired from Fort
Henry, and the citizens cheered heartily. His Excellency
and the Princess Louise most graciously bowed their
acknowledgments, and seemed delighted with theijr re-
ception at Kingston.

>C,

'7 . ,.i

■;-■

536 THE MARQUB AND FllINCESS.

'■ : ' ■■,,**

LtUIJ^S ON THE OCCASION OF THE MARQUIS OP LOE.NB

AND THS PRINCESS LOUISI TISITINO KINQBTOIT. ^ :

Of a Royal Princess we now can boast,

And drink a health and loyal toast

To QuEBN Victoria, whom Ood may spare, '

Who honoured Canada with her daughter fair.

From deceitful enemies or their foes,
May Qod the Royal couple keep in sweet repose ;
And let other nations see that this fair land
Can uphold Royalty with heart and hand.

Kingston, fair city of the thousand isles,
Where the noble St. Lawrence so gently smiles ;
With \U Royal Military College of much renown.
And the grand old buildings of this ancient town.

Though this city much of limestone smelU
There are British hearts that ever swell
To respond to Royalty, and one so fair,
As the Princess Louise who visited there.

Was e'er such honour paid Kingston before.
As a Princess and Marquis inside their door t
The honour paid her was much deserved.
For she stood true and loyal when others swerved.

With the noble Marquis, and fair Louise,
The loyal Kingstonians were much pleased ;
At their reception the Mayor did preside,
With the city aldermen on either side.

To welcome loyally those we love so dear.

And show our loyalty in old Kingston here.

For we Kingstonians are all sworn,

To stand together — aye, for Lome.

T. Fauobkait.

A- ■.'.',

., ...'^.r^xM^'it^.i^- -mmMmmM &mmm tm'JM^

THE CONOLUSION.

137

So now here, in the quiet, but picturesque town, of
Picton, Ont, I must giye my gentle reader the parting
hand of fellowship. We had a long, and I hope, interesting
journey, from my enlistment to my discharge ; I trust not
aii unprofitable one. We have travelled over the ground of
battle scenes, of blood, carnage and slaughter during that
memorable campaign of the Crimean war ; stood on the
hoary ruins of palaces, mosques, and temples. We have
seen Eg3rpt and that great and terrible Lybian desert ;
we have been around, inside and on the summit of the
mighty pyramids, and gazed in wonder and awe at their
vast proportions. We have s^n the ruins of fallen em-
pires and broken altars, and the paraphernalia of idola-
trous worship preserved in tombs and sarcophagi of the
ancient kings, and felt the vanity of human greatness.
Our time together has passed pleasantly ; we part, I trust,
mutual friends, and so ends the story of an old soldier,
who only asks your pardon for the many defects and
weaknesses in this simple narrative, and who also hopes it
may amuse the young and old, and show them that a
steady, sober, and well-conducted man will ever get on
well and be happy in the service of Her Most Qracious
Majesty, whom Qod may long preserve, is the prayer of
her humble and dutiful pensioner.

THOMAS FAUGHNAN.

PloToir, 18M.

II W i i St I li I flmrmmmlm^llM

.,M«.aiw?ttA«hVlMtflMI>l-««&'*'i V-.

THE YOUNG HUSSAR;

LADY IRIS'S ADVENTURE.

A THRILUNG MILITARY NARRATIVE OF LOVE

AND ADVENTURE,

•'I

i'-i

-f -.1

':• -'11

THOMAS FAUQHNAN, Or. Sergt 6th Boyal Segt.,

AUTHOR or " Stirring Incidents in thb Life or a Brit-
ish Soldier.**

The faetB of the abore stoiy having oome under my ohaerrfttion who*
on active service in the Army, and feeling, like meet Iriahmen, an inex*
haoBtible store of fun and buoyancy of ipitit within me, led me to believe
that I could further contribute to the Public a truthful itoiy not only
abounding in f aoetioua efifudona but which will, I am aure^ cauie a hearty
laugh at very little expenMk

4ddreM^

PBIOB ONB POLLAR

THOMAS FAUGH NAN,

Aothob Axat PcBUBmni,

PIOTON, ONT.

S^'-i

»- , ,r ,-,;