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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ▲1 THE GUIDE-BOOK TO ALASKA AND THE NORTHWEST COAST INCLUDING THE SHORES OF WASHINGTON, BRITISH COLUMBIA, SOUTHEASTERN ALASKA, THE ALF.UTIAN AND THE SEAL ISLANDS, THE BERING AND THE ARCTIC COASTS ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE ▲UTBOR OF "ALASKA : ITS SOUTHERN COAST AND 1HK SITKAN ARCHIPELAQO," "JINRIKI8HA DAYS IN JAPAN,'' AND "WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST/' WITH MAPS AND MANY ILLUSTRATIONS • • • • •• . *^ •• • • • . J b 9 . , • • • , . t -• , ,* , • • • • » • » « LONDON WILLIAM IIEINEMANN 1893 [All rlghtt reserved.] I ■■ I dll^^anp— ■ ,i|l ^^i^mmm ui|l« mill I IIIJ|I I ■ II I « •^•mm^m^fmm PiiuWd In Anerim. Copyright, 1»»8, l»y D. Appleton Jk Co. , . , » . • • • ' ' • t , m , , ■• < e t • • ■• • c « • . • . • rmm CONTENTS. Introduction PAOK 1 THE PUGET SOUND COUNTRY. The Pacific Forcpt Reserve and Mt. Itainicr 6 The International Boundary Line 12 Vancouver Island 14 Tides 10 The Inland Sea 17 From Victoria to Queen Charlott« Sound 17 The Vicinity of Nanaimo 18 The Upi)er End of the (Julf of Georgia 19 Seymour Narrows or Yaculta Rapids— The Great Malstrom . . 21 The Head of Vaiicouvjr I>*land 22 From Queen Charlotte to Milbank Sound 28 Nakwakto Rapids 24 The Coast of British Columbia 25 From Milbank Sound to Dixon Entrance 27 Gardner Canul or Inlet 28 The Skeena River 29 The Tsimsian Peninsula 31 Nass River, Ol)servatory Inlet, and Portland Canal .... 83 The Queen Charlotte Islands 34 TheHaidas 37 ALASKA. Climate of Southeastern Alaska 40 The Native Race op Southeastern Alaska— The Tlinoits . . 43 Tlingit Customs 45 The International Boundary Line 48 The Southern Islands 51 Mary Island Customs District 52 New Metiakahtla 53 Metl \ahtla 54 - ne Na-a Country 56 The Pacific Salmon 50 Salmon Canneries 57 35 1 91 IV CONTENTS. PAUE TBK IIETII.LAOIGEDO LaKEB ANT) BeHM CaNAL 58 Prince of Wales Island 60 Fort Wranoell 65 The STiKiNE River 68 Itinerary of the Stiklne River 70 Mining Regions of tlie Htilcine ?2 International Boundary Line on tlie Stilcinc 73 From Sumner Strait to Prince Frederick Sound via VVrang'jll Narrows 73 Along Prince Frederlclc Sound 74 The Thunder Bay Giacier 75 Glacial Theory of the Natives 75 Kupreanoff and Kuiu Islands, the Land of Kalces .77 From Cape Fanshawe to Taku Inlet, Shucks and Sum Dum Bays . 78 Talcu Inlet and the Taku Glaciers 80 The Harris Mining District— .Juneau and its Vicinity .... 82 The Silver Bow Basin Mines 83 The Largest (Quartz-Mill in the World 85 Admiralty Island 87 Fisheries of the Region 88 Along Chatham Strait and Lynn Canal 90 The Chilkat Country and the Passes to the Yukon ... 92 The Great Tribt of the Tlingit Nation m To the Yukon River and Mining Camps 96 Glacier Bay 97 Discovery and Exploration of Glacier Bay 97 Indian Traditions 98 Scientists' Camps 99 Itinerary of the Bay and Inlet 100 Muir Inlet and the Great Muir Glacier 100 The Lateral Moraines 103 The Rate of Recession 10* The Ascent of Mt. Wright to the Hanging Gardens and Mountain- Goat Pastures 105 On the Mainland Shore of Cross Sound 106 The Chicagoff Island Shores 106 From Chatham Strait to tub Ocean by Peril or Pooibshi Straits, 108 Baranof Island and the Russian Settlements 110 The Puichase of Russian America 112 The Transfer of Russian America to the United States . . . 113 An Abandoned Territory 114 Sitka, the Capital of the Territory of Alaska 115 Russian Orthodox Church of St. Michael 117 The Indian River Park 119 The Indian Village 120 The Sltkans and their Records 120 The Ascent of Verstovoi 128 CONTENTS. ExcurelonB in (he Bay and Vicinity of Sitka isjji The Ascent of Mt. Edgecumbe ! 124 Silver Bay and the Sitka Mining DlBtrict ...... ise The Baranof Shore bODXH of Sitka * 127 The White Sulphur Hot Springs ....... i 128 "To Westward " from Sitka to Unalabka, along the Conti- nental Shore ton From Sitka to Yakutat ,on Mt. St. Ellas ... 132 Continental Alaska 133 Prince William's Sound and its Great Glaciers .... . vn Cook's Inlet and the Kenai Peninsula . . liw Tides " " " • '*» Kadiak and the Great Salmon Canneries ....!! I37 The Greatest Salmon Stream in the World ...... 139 The Shumagln Islands and the Cod Fisheries . . . ! ! 139 The Aliaska Peninsula 140 The Aleutian Islands . . Ul Excursions from Unalaska 143 The Bering Sea and Shores ! . 144 The Pribylov or Seal Islands ........ U5 The Sea Island Leases .' * ' 146 Callorhinus Ursinus, the Fur Seal ....... 145 The Bering Sea Question .... 147 Other Islands in Bering Sea . 149 Bering Strait ' . 149 In the Arctic Ocean i ! 150 \ I LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. •I _, FACING PAOB RoADWAT IN Stanley Park, Vancouvek 14 Indians, near New Westminster I7 The Gorqe or the Homatiico 19 Johnstone Strait 22 A IIaida Totem-Pole ... w Tlinoit Woman 44 HuTLi, or Thunuer Glacier 75 JUHEAU gg The Treadwell Mine, Douglass Island 86 Front of Muir Glacier and Mt. Case, from West Moraine . . 101 View from End of Sainovar Hills 110 Salmon-Berry Market, Sitka 118 The Old Fur Warehouse, Greek Church, and Peak of Mt. Vers- Tovoi, Sitka 121 Custom-house, Castle, and Barracks, Sitka 1^ Mt, Shisualdin 142 MAPS. Glaciers of Mt. Rainier g General Map op Alaska 39 The International Boundary Line 61 Chilkat and Chilkoot Bays 92 Glacier Bay 97 The Coast from Sandy Bay to Cape Edward 123 Mt. St. Elias Region 132 Chief Routes op Alaskan Explorers 134 The Route of the Alaska Excursion Steamers . . . In Pocket TABLE OF DISTANCES. NAUTICAL I1ILE8. Snn Francirtco to Victoria, B. C 760 San Francirtco to Taconin 860 San KranciMco to Sitka («>nt8i('t> passage), 1,614 statute miles, or 1,298 San Krantlsco to Kadiuk. . . 1,760 San Francisco to Unaluska direct 2,413 statute miles, or 2,068 Tacoma to Seattle 26 Seattle to Tort Townsend 88^ Port Townscnd to Victoria 31 Victoria to Active Pass 88 Victoria to Xanainio 78 Victoria to Seymour Narrows 160 Victoria to Tongass Narrows (Kichikan) 660 Tongass Narrows to Port Chester 16 Tongass Nairows to Loring 24 Loring to Ycss Bay 22 Loring to Fort Wrangell 88 Fort Wrangell to (Jlenora, on Stikine River 160 F'ort Wrangell to Juneau 146 Fort Wrangell to Sitka 325 Juneau to Douglass Island (Tread well Wharf) 2^ Juneau to Berner's Bay 46 Juneau to Chilkat 89 Juneau to Muir Glacier 160 Juneau to Killisnoo 104 Juneau to Sitka 176 Chilkat to Bartlett's Bay 98 BartLtt's Bay to Muir Glacier 30 Bartlett's Bay to end of Glacier Bay 60 Muir Glacier to Tacoma 1,218 Muir Glacier to Sitka 160 Killisnoo to Sitka 72 Sitka to Silver Bay 12 Sitka to Hot Sulphur Springs 16 Sitka to Mt. Edgecurabe 13 Sitka to Chilkat 180 Sitka to Yakutat 200 Sitka to Kadiak 660 Sitka to Unalaska (1,283 statute miles) 1,100 Sitka to Tacoma 1,378 Unalaska to St. Paul, Pribylov Islands 200 St. Paul to Sitka 1,600 St. Paul to San Francisco 2,300 I n INTRODUCTION. 1/ I The Northwest Const is the general term tipplied by last cen- tury explorers and diploiimts to all that part of the continent of North Ameriia lying between the Columbia River and YaKu.at Ha;., or l>etwecn its landmarks, Mts. Rainier and St. Elian. The S^ate of Washington, the province of British Columbia, and the 8» itliea>f«?rn or Sitkan dis- trict of Alaska occupy each a third of this coast. The bulk of the Ter- ritor-' '1 Alaska lies beyond Mt. St. Elias. Its oast ofifers little of interest or attraction beyond the Aliaska Peniiibula, and the interior is sparsely inhabited. Southeastern Alaska is the only i)ortion of the vast Territory now accessible to tourists and pleasure travellers, and the Alaska mail and excursion steamer routes include a tour through the archipelago fringing the Northwest Coast and sheltering an inside passage over a thousand miles in length. The Coast Range presents a bold front to the o ean from the Colum- bia river northward, and the Columbian and Alexander Archipelagoes are half-submerged peaks and ranges — the veritable " Sea of Mountains.'* Glaciers gem all these Cordilleran slopes, and the tide-water glaciers at the head of Alaskan inlets are paralleled only in the strait of Magellan, in Iceland, Greenland, and polar regions. The scenery is sublime be- yond description, and there is almost a monotony of such magniKcence n the cruise along the Northwest Coast. The mountains are covered with the densest forests, all undisturbed game preserves, the waters teem with hundreds of varieties of fish, and the northern moors are the homes of great flocks of aquatic birds. The native people are the most interesting study of ethnologists, and totem ism in a living and advanced stage may be studied on the spot. Settlements are few and far be- tween, mining and fish-packing the chief indu-sti x>s. The climate of the Northwest Coast is far milder than that of the Northeast Coast of the continent. The Karo Siwo, the Japan or Gulf Stream of the Pacific, flowing northward from the Southern Ocean, follows the line of the Aleutian Islands, makes a great loop in the ^•^"j-.- T a INTRODUCTION. Gulf of Alaska, and flows southward along the coast. It greatly modi- fies the climate, bends the isothermal lines northward, and makes cli- mate and temperature depend upon distance from the warm Kuro Siwo rather than on distance from the equator. The high mountain ranges condense the soft, warm vapours accompanying the Japan Stream, and the annual precipitation is greater than on any other part of the conti- nent. The rainfall averages from 80 to 140 in. along the coast, but the least mountain barrier, as with the Olympics on the Washin ton coast, reduces the precipitation to one half on the lee side. Steamship lines conveying United States and Royal mails give fre- quent communication throughout the year with all the Northwest Coast and are availed of by pleasure travellers. They offer unknown delights of ocean travel, and from deck chairs tourists view near at hand the tide-water glaciers and the highest mountains of the conti- nent, pursuing the placid channels of water-floored canons for a fort- night with scarce a ripple encountered. As a yachting region it offers more than the Hebrides or the Norwegian coast. Ill RAIL AND STEAMER ROUTES TO THE NORTHWEST. ( See Route Map, in iMcket, last cover.) Puget Sound is the usual point of departure for Alaska, and is reached from the East by five great transcontinental railway lines : l)y the tkmlhern Fadfic, from Ogden or San Francisco via Sacramento and Mt. Shasta to Portland, and thence to Tacoma and Seattle ; by the Union Pacijic, from Omaha and Ogden direct to Portland, Tacoma, and Seattle ; by the Northern Pacific^ from St. Paul ma the Yellowstone Park to Tacoma and Seattle; by the Great Northern, from Duluth, Winnipeg, or St. Paul to Everett on Puget Sound and Seattle ; and by the Canadian Pacijic, from Montreal via the Great Lakes, Winnipeg, and the Canadian National Park to Vancouver and thence to Victoria or Seattle. The excursion companies in Eastern cities usually choose different routes in going and returning, giving their patrons opportunity to visit in this way both the Yellowstone and the Canadian National Parks. Alaska tourists reach Victoria and Puget Sound ports by sea by the steamers of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company (Goodall, Per- kins & Co.), from San Francisco. This same company dispatches semi-monthly mail steamers from Tacoma to Sitka the year round. The Alaska mail steamers have accommodations for about 60 passen- \ INTRODUCTION. 3 /V' gers, take from 14 to 18 days for the voyage of 2,800 to 3,000 miles from Tacoma to Sitka and return, calling at Victoria, Nanaimo, Mary Island, Loring, Fort Wrangcll, Juneau, Killisnoo, and at many can- neries and out-of-the-way places to receive and deliver freight dur- ing the summer weeks. A day is given to the Muir Glacier in Glacier Bay in the tourist season. The excursion steamer Queen, of the P. C. S. S. Co., makes scmi-raonthly trips during June, July, and August each year. It is scheduled to make the tour from Tacoma and return in 12 days. It has accommodations for 250 passengers, carries almost no freight, is not bound by a mall contract, and arranges its course and movements to reach the places of interest at most con- venient hours. It visits the Taku as well as the Muir .^lacier. These steamers of U. S. register make no other stops in British Columbia after coaling at Nanaimo. Fare, ^100 for the round trip from Ta- coma. The Canadian Pacific Navigation Company, of Victoria, dispatches semi-monthly mail steamers from Victoria to Fort Simpson and way ports the year round. When inducements are offered they visit the Queen Charlotte Islands, but do not cross the Alaska line. The C. P. N. Co. arrange for one or more excursions from Victoria to S.tka and return each summer, a steam.or accommodatine from 130 to 150 pas- sengers, visiting the larger Indian villages and settlements of the Brit- ish Columbia coast, its principal fiords, and the chief points of interest in Alaska. Passengers cannot land in Alaska from ships of British register save at ports where U. S. customs officers are stationed. Fare, $95 for the round trip from either Victoria or Vancouver to Sitka and return. The steamer accommodations by either line are first class in every respect — the excursion steamers, catering to an expensive class of pleasure travel, offering most luxuries and comforts. As all the voy- age is in smooth, landlocked wate:s, save the short interval of Queen Charlotte cound, sea-sickness is not to be anticipated by any one. In the nightlejs days of the northern summers little is lost by darkness. Private steamers may be chartered at San Fraucieoo, Tacoma, Seattle, or Victoria at rates varying from *200 to $500 per day. There are few pilots, however, able to take steamers the length of the coast, auJ sailing yachts are helpless in the narrow, draughty channels, swept by strong tidal currents, or on the open coast with its rocks, ledges, and inshore currents. Launches with sleeping accommodations INTRODUCTION. for 4 or 10 may be chartered for hunting and exploring cruises at Juneau, at the Treadwcll mine on Douglas Island, and sometimes at Loring, Chilkat, and Killisnoo, at prices ranging from $20 to $40 per day, according to size and fuel used. Launches chartered for long cruises can meet the mail steamers at Mary Island or Fort Wrangel if desired. Those intending to camp or cruise in launches should take the greater part of their provisions and outfit from the Sound. All commodities are naturally dearer in the Alaska settlements. A few vegetables, with unlimited fish and game, may be had at any set- tlement ; fresh beef at Juneau only. Indian canoes are rented from $2 per day upward, each oarsman paid by the day in addition. Touri.st.s make the usual preparation for an ocean voyage, carrying their own deck chairs, heavy wraps, and rugs. The warmest wraps are needed on cloudy and rainy days, and while the steamer^ lie off the tide-water glaciers. Every provision should be made for the frequent rains, although on many trips not a single rainy day is recorded. Rub- ber shoes, boots, and leggings, waterproof coats and cloaks, add much to the certain comfort and enjoyment of the voyage. Alpenstocks for the glacier may be rented from the porters. Spiked shoes, ice txes, and ropes are not needed. United States money is current everywhere, and the Indians greatly prefer silver coin to gold or notes in any dealings with whites. All bag- gage of travellers is subject to a c'ustoms examination on crossing the boundary between Washington and Britisli Columbia. The frequent communication with China causes extra vigilance by health officers at Victoria and Port Townsend for small-pox cases, and the traveller may be saved untold annoyance and delays if provided with a vaccination certificate before embarking. While cholera is present in Chinese ports every summer, its germs have never survived the long ocean voy- age in the quarter century of steam communication between our Pacific coast and Asiatic ports. The plan of this book follows as nearly as possible The Cana- dian GuiPE Books, Parts I and II. Names of places and objects of importance are printed in large-faced type or in Italics ; the names of railway and steamship lines are printed in full once, and abbreviated by initial letters whenever repeated : Hudson's Bay Co. becomes H. B. Co., and the points of the compass are indicated by the initials N. for north, S. for south, etc. THE GUIDE BOOK TO ALASKA. THE PUOET SOUND COUNTKY. The first section of the Northwest Coast, including western Wash- ington, is so fully described in Appletons' General Guide, that hut few other references are needed for the Alaska tourist, who begins and ends his voyagings here. Tacoma, the county seat of Pierce County, ,)Opulation 36,006 by cen- sus of 1890, is situated on a bluff 180 ft. high, overlooking Puyallup or Commencement Bay, as named by Commander Wilkes in 1841, who there f^ommenced his surveys of the Sound. The first house was built in 1852. The general passenger station of the X. P. R. R. is on the edge of the bluff at the intersection of Pacific Ave. All baggage checked to " Tacoma " is left at this station, unless checked to " Tacoma Wharf," the branch station a mile below at the water's edge. Sound, Alaska, and ocean steamers depart from this wharf. Electric cars connect the two stations, and there is an excellent cab and omnibus system with a mod- erate tariff posted i; each vehicle. The Twoma^ on the edge of the bluff and The Tourist, the million dollar hotfil of the Tacoma Land Co. are the leading hotels — rates $3 per day and upward. Smaller hotels on the European plan, and lodging houses, are numerous, and restau- rants are found on Pacific Ave. and on the numbered streets leading from it. The large hotels take on the character of watering-place re- sorts in the summer season, and the arrival and anticipated departure of Alaska steamers fill them to overflowing. The steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. leave Tacoma every five days for San Francisco and fortnightly for Alaska. The Puget Sound and Hawaiian TraflBc Company dispatch a monthly steamer to Honolulu. The North- em Pacific Company dispatch a steamer monthly for Hong-Kong and Yokohoma. There is a daily steamer to Victoria, touching at the prin- cipal cities on the Sound, and almost hourly communication by boat and 6 THE PUOET SOUND COUNTRY. train with Seattle 30 miles distant. Many excursions invite the Alaska tourist who has a few days at command. The great hop ranches around PuyalUip may be visited by carriage, by trains of the N. P. R., and by the Lake Park Motor Co.'s trains. Puyallup Valley is one of the garden spots of the State, and in September the river banks are lined with the canoes and tents of the Indian hop-pickers, who come from the Colum- bia plains and even the Alaska islands. It is one of the points of de- parture for mountain-climbers who essay the ascent of the great peak of Mt. Rainier, now surrounded by a Government forest reserve. The Pacific Forest Reserve and Mt. Rainier. This park of 967,680 acres was created by proclamation of Presi- dent Harrison, February 20, 1893. Forty-two townships of Pierce, Lewis, Yakima, and Kittetas Counties were withdrawn from entry to V Tfc\\ MOUNT RAINIER From the "Northern [he, Tooiooak .. TnuiwonUnenUl Burrrj." Br BAILEY WILLIS, 1883. 1. Liberty ("ap, 14,-282. 2. Dome, 14,3.59. 3. South Peak. 4. Longuiirc Sprs. .5. Paradise Valley. 6. Gibraltar. 7. Eagle Cliff. * Crater. protect the head waters of the Puyallup, Carbon, White, Natchez, Tietan, Nisqually, and Cowlitz Rivers which flow from the glaciers radi- ating from the summit of Mt. Rainier like the spokes of a wheel. The THE PUOET SOUND COUNTRY. park measures 36 miles from E. to \V. and 42 miles from N. to S. There are trails and waggon roads to the points of interest on the W. and S. side. ^t. Rainier (14,444 ft.) is the highest peak in the Cascade Range, chief in a group of volcanoes, and rises abruptly from the low forest lands covering the 55 miles between its base and Puget Sound. Van- couver saw it from Murrowstone Point, opposite Port Townsend, May 10, 1792, and named it for his friend Rear-Admiral Rainier, one of the Lords of the Admiralty. It was smoking splendidly when Fremont left the Columbia in 1842, the Pathfinder alluding to it as Regnier, and, with many, believing that it had been named for Lieutenant Regnier, of Mar- chand's expedition (1791). The Puyallup Indians tall the peak Toh-ko-buh, the Nisquallys Tah- ho-7nah, the Duwamish Ta-ko-bd^ all meaning the snowy or snow moun- tain. For years the local and landsman's name was Tacoma, naviga- tors using the chart name of Rainier, The rivalry between the cities of Seattle and Tacoma made the mountain's name a subject of bitter strife, the N. P. Co. printing it as Tacoma in all maps and publications. In 1890 the U. S. Board of (Jeographic Names decided that Rainier must stand on all Government charts, maps, and publications, Vancouver's charts having been accepted and used as authority for a century. The peak is a symmetrical pyramid, as viewed from Seattle ; a double peak from Tacoma ; and from Olympia or Yelm Prairie on the line of the N. P., south of Tacoma, it shows its three peaks in outline like Mt. Fairweather and Mt. St. Elias. The first attempt to dim)) the great peak was made by Dr. William Frazer Tolraie, surgeon of the II. B. Co.'s Fort Xis(|ually, in 1833, and resulted in his reaching Tolmie Peak by way of Crater Lake on the 1,. ./. slope. Lieutenant A. V. Kautz reached the South Peak in 1857 ; Messrs. P. U. Van Trump and Hazard Stevens reached the Dome or Crater P; ak in August, 187*>; and Messrs. A. D. Wilson and S. F. Emmons, U. S. Geological Survey, in Octol)er, 1870. At the close of 1892, 38 climbers were known to have reached the summit, all ascend- ing by the Gibraltar Trail on the S. side, save Warner Fobes and two companions who climbed the ridge on the N. E. side by the White River Glacier, in 1884, and George Bayley and P. B. Van Trump on the W. side in 1892. One woman. Miss Fay Fuller, reached the summit August 10, 1890. Eight days is the least time in which an experienced climber can make the round trip from either Seattle or Tacoma to the summit of Mt. Rainier and return. P. B. Van Trump, the veteran guide, lives at 8 THE PUOET SOUND COUNTBY. Yelm Prairie ; George Driver, guide, may be communicated with through 7%e Tacoma^ Tacoma; and Mr. E. C. Ingraham, the Seattle publisher, will advise any intending climbers who may ai)peal to him there. Eton- ville (P. O.) is the point of real departure, and may be reached by daily stages or hacks from Puyallup, Roy, or Yelm Prairie stations on the N. P. R., either route involving a ride of 26 or 30 miles. The next stage is 18 miles to Keniahan's Palisade Farm in Succotash (Su-ho-tas, " black raspberry ") Valley, A third start is made before sunrise, in order to ford the Rainier Fork of the Nisqually (6 miles beyond) before the melting ice and snow raise the glacial torrent. Longmire's hot soda springs hotel is headtiuarters for campers and climbers, and offers plain shelter and comforts. A horse trail leads thence 4 miles to the foot of the Nisqually Glacier, the Nisqually River emerging from an ice cavern in its front. A switchback trail of 2 miles leads 1,200 ft. up the front of the Nisqually Bluff and ends in Paradise Valley (5,700 ft.), a park at the snow-line carpeted with wild flow- ers. Good climbers may leave their horses at the foot of the glacier, climb and cross the ice to Paradise Valley, which is 5 miles irom the summit. It is one day's hard climb with creepers or lumbermen's " calks," over ice and snow to the foot of Gibraltar Rock (11,000 ft.), where the night is spent. An early start is made to cross the dangerous ledges on Gi- braltar's face and cut steps up a steep ice cliflf before the day's avalanches begin, and the twin craters with a common central rim upholding the snowy Dome or Crater Peak (14,444 ft.) may be reached before noon. Climbers usually aim to spend the night in the ice caves formed by the sulphur vent-holes in the crater. Food is warmed over steam jets, and with lights the ice caverns may be explored for hundreds of feet. The larger crater is three quarters of a mile in diameter, and both but vent- holes of a vaster cone of preglacial days. The Liberty Cap, Tacoma, or North Peak (14,000 ft.), the apparent summit seen from Tacoma, is 2 miles distant from South Peak, and the true or Crater Peak lies mid- way. The height, 14,444 ft., as given in Gannett's Dictionary of Alti- tudes, is the result of triangulations from a base-line on the Sound measured by Prof. George C. Davidson. Mr. A. D. Wilson, of the North- ern Transcontinental Survey, gives 14,900 ft. as the result of over one hundred trigonometrical determinations from the E. side of the moun- tain. A shorter and easier Rainier excursion may be made by the Bailey Willis trail from Wilkeson station on the N. P. R. to Observation Point THE PUOKT SOUND COUNTRY. 9 at the head of the Edmunds Glacier, named for tlie Hon. George F. Edmunds, of Vermont, acting Vice-President of the United States at the time of his visit, in 1883. The Point (10,000 ft.) commands as ex- tensive a view as the summit save to S. E., and the I >lack cliff 4,000 feet liigh rising immediately behind it may be distinguished from Seat- tle. Ladies have reached the point by horse and sled without walking. The Meadows, Crater Lake, Eagle Cliff, Lace Falls, Prospect Park, and the Bailey Willis, the Edmunds, and the Puyallup (ilaciers feeding the one river, are objects of interest on that route. The view from Eagle Cliff which overhangs the Puyallup River 2,500 ft. below it, and com- mands a full outline of the snowy summit, is extolled as the Jinest mountain vicv.' on the Pacific coast by many Sierra and Alj)ine climbers. The glaciers of Mt. Rainier were first reported by Messis. Wilson and Emmons, of the U. S. Geological Survey, in 1870, and mapped by Bailey Willis, of the Northern Transcontinental Survey, in 1883. The Cowlitz Glacier, on the S. side, is 12 miles long and from 1 to 3 miles wide, broken by several magnificent ice falls. No systematic explora- tions or thorough study of these glaciers have been made. All have an average motion of 12 inches a day in midsummer. Original accounts of the earlier ascents of Mt. Rainier and descrip- tive articles have been published as follows : Emmons, S. F., Bulletin No. 4 of American Geological Society (N. Y.), session 1876-'77 ; Fobes, Wanier, The West Shore Magazine, Seattle, September, 1885; Hen- drickson, C. D., The American Magazine, London, November, 1887; Kautz, A. v.. Overland Monthly Magazine, San Francisco, June, 1876 ; Muir, John, " Picturesque California," New York and San Fran- cisco, part xviii. ; Stevens, Hazard, Atlantic Monthly Magazine, Boston, November, 1876; Willis, Bailey, Columbia College (N. Y.) School of Mines Quarterly, January, 1887 ; Report of Tenth Census (1880), Wash- ington. The Alaska excursion steamers usually leave Tacoma at daylight, passengers going on board the night before. A few hours' stay are allowed at Seattle, which is fully described in Appletons' General Guide. Seattle, population 42,837 by the census of 18ro, the commercial rival of Tacoma, was named for the old Duwamish chief, and fronts on Elliot, originally Duwamish Bay. The stations from which the Northern Pacific, the Union Pacific, the Great Northern, the Columbia & Puget Sound, the Seattle & Northern, and the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Ry. trains depart, are on the water front in close proximity 2 10 THE rUOKT SOUND COUNTRY. to Yesler'rt iiiul Commercial Wliarf, where Sound and oteun steamers land. Cabs and omnibuses have moderate tarifF of charges. The Ran'ur and the I)enn;f, rates $:} a day and upward, are the leading hotels. The ship's delay usually allows time for a ride by cable or electric cars to the heights around the harbour or to Lake Washington or to Lake Union, 2 miles distant. Port Townsend, tlie " Key City of the Sound," population 4,568,* is the port of entry for the Puget Sound customs district, and point of departure of U. S. mails for Alaska. San Francisco passengers usually join the Alaska steamers at this port. Excursion steamers make short sto|)S, but mail steamers receive and discharge the larger part of their cargo here, and often lie for 24 hours. The new Custom-House and Court-llouse on the edge of the bluff command fine views, and electric railways crossing the peninsula to the Fuca shore afford means of passing the waiting hours. There is a large modern hotel near the wharves of the Port Townsend & Southern Ry., which is under con- struction, and will connect the west shore towns with the other rail- way systems at Olyinpia. Fort Townsend, a two-company military post at the end of the bay, may l)e reached by 6-mile carriage-roads, or by small steamers which ply between the town and t!ie Irondale blast- furnaces and Port Hadlock mill beyond. Small steamers run l)etween Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Pysht, and Neah Bay on the Fuca shore. There is a large village of Makah Indians at Neah Bay, 4 miles E. of Cape Flattery. The women are the finest basket-weavers on the coast, and their gayly coloured wares may be bought at Port Townsend and Victoria. Everette is the terminal point of the Great Northern Ry. from St. Paul. Its rail communications permit passengers to join Alaska steamers a* Anacortes or Seattle. Everette's growth has been since 1890, and among its industries are ship-yards where whaleback freight and passenger steamers are built. Auacortesy on Fidalgo Island, population 2,000, is 108 miles from Seattle, and terminus of the Pacific division (Portland, Seattle & Anacortes Line) of the N. P. R. There is a fine modem hotel. The Anacortes, in a pine grove adjoining the wharf. Alaska and San * Through neglect to enlarge the city limits and include newly settled additions before the census of 1890, Port Townsend showed little increase of population in the decade, and Jefferson County was given credit for the great increase in inhabitants. TIIK I'lJOET BOUND COUNTRY. 11 Francisco steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. call rejiularly, and tlio Sound boats give daily communication with Seattle and Tacoma. Alattka steamers sometimes visit Fairhaveii) population 4,000, and What- coni) population lO,000, the two enterprising tow'ns on Heilin^hiim Ray. All this upper end of the Sound is dominated hy Mt. Baker ( 10,- 810 ft.), an extinct volcano, whose many native nanic.«i — I'ukhomis, I'uksan, and Kulshan — all mean "the firc-nioimtain," (ialiano and Valdes called it Mt. Cartnelo. Vancouver saw it later from the strait of Fiica or New Duuf^oness, at first vaguely Hoatiuf; above the cl()u,0O(» and S,tM>(» ft. in height. The shores ate deeply indented, many iidets penetrating to the heait of the island, which is densely wooded throughout, with occasional small prairies at the southern end. Mineral deposit.s have been uncovered at many places, and extensive coul fiehls are worked on the (Jeorgian shore. Settlements have advanced •lowly on the west coast, which is beset with many dangers to navigation, Imt which in titne must attract fishing communities. S<<)ttish crofter families have already been colonized for that purpose. After the abandonment of Nootka, the first settlement was made by the H. B. Co. in 1814, when they built a fort at the native Vamoxim, " the place where camass grows," which became Fort Victoiia. In 1849 her Majesty assigned all of Vancouver Island to the II. 13. Co. forever. In 1868 it was bought back by the Crown for £r»7,5t><», just as the Fraser Rivei- gold cxcitemt nt brought ;i(),o(>0 people to the colony at once, and a canvas city of l.'i,0()(» inhabitants surrounded the stockade for months. Vancouver was a separate colony, and Sir .lames Douirlass its , when it l)ecame one province with British I'Olumbia, under the same distinguished (Jovernor. In 1871 British Columbia joined the Doudnion of Canada, with un understanding that the Domiiujn would build a railway to the Pacific. Delay in fulfilling that promise caused disaffection and a strong sentiment for annexation with the United States. The completion of the C. P. R. in 1885 brought a revival second only to Fraser River times, and the island cities have grown as rapidly as their younger rivals on the nniinland shore. Extensive fortifications protect Esquimault, the British naval station, which commands the strait of Fuca. Virtoria, population 20,000, fully described in The Canadian GiiDE-BooK, Part II, offers much to the tourist who awaits the I * Quadra was Spanish commandant at Nootka in 1792. k 1 I Kinnlirin/ in Stdtili'i/ I'dik. rdiirouiuT. VANCOUVER ISI-AND. 15 Alaska steamer at that point. The Driard (tjiS.SO per day) and the Dallas ($3 per day), are the leading hotels, and Miirhocufs, or the Poodle-Dog Besfanrani, is famous lor its uisine. The P. C. S. S. Co.'s steamers land passenjrers at the outside wharf, and the C. P. N. Co.'s steamers land at the wharves at the inside harbour. An electric railway connects the outside wharf with the business part of the city, and its branch lines reach Es(iuima\ilt and the suburl)s. Cabs are clieap, and the drives about Victoria are much famed for tho picturesque scenes tliey lead to, and their perfect road-b'Mls. There is daily communication between Victoria, New Westminster, Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma. The C. P. N, Co.'s mail steamers make semi- monthly trips to Barclay Sound, on the W. coast of the island, and to the N. coast. C. P. N. Co.'s excursion steamers dci)art at inter- vals for Alaska during the summer months, calling at Vancouver, Alert Bay, Fort Rupert, River's Inlet, China Hat, Gardiner's Inlet, Port Essington, Metlakahtla and Fort Simpson, in addition to the chief points of interest in Alaska — Fort Wrangel, Sitka and Juneau, and skirting past but not landing at the Muir and Taku Glaciers. The P. C. S. S. Co.'s steamers regularly call at Victoria in going and returning, and their steamers plying between San Francisco and the Puget Sound ports make it a regular port of call every five days. The C. P. R. Royal Mail Steamship Line to China and Japan call at Victoria in going and returning. The steamers of the N. P. R. Co. to China and Japan, and the Puget Sound and Hawaii Traftic Co.'s Hono- lulu steamers, also call at Victoria. The Island Railway, 8(» miles in length, connects Esfjuimuult and Victoria with Nanaimo on the Gulf of Georgia. It wr s l)€gun in 1884 and complete'i in 1888, its projectors, Robert Dunsmuir and his sons, James Bryden, Lelund Stanford, C. P. Huntington, and Charles Crocker, receiving a Government subsidy of ^750,000, and a grant of land ten miles in width on either side of the road-l)ed, with all the minerals and timber included. Passengers may, at their own expense, agreeably break the steamer trip by taking this short rail route between Victoria and Nanaimo, and enjoy the island forests and scenery. In a single day, Oi' during the usual waits of Alasl-a mail and ex- cursion steamers at Victoria, the tourist can see the war ships an'! dry dock at Esquimault ; the boiling-tide rapids at the Gorge, the true Esquiraault, or " rush of waters " ; the Colonial Museum ; tlie Sonj^hies Camp across the haibour ; the curio shops in Johnson Street ; Chinatown ; ^ i T IG VANCOUVER ISLAND. «l and on certain days hear the Military Band play in Beacon Hill Park. The Dominion taritf prevents the shops from offering many inducements to shoppers and amateur smugglers to the United States. Sooke, Saanich, Cowichan, further inlets and distant lakes, with their tidy British inns, snug shooting-boxes, or rough camps, offer much to sportsmen and anglers who may |)rolong their stay. TIDES. The tides of the Pacific coast differ greatly from those of the Atlantic. Lieutenant R. C. Ray, U. S. N., in the U. S. Uydrographic Office, " Coast of British Columbia," explains these Pacific tides in this reference to those of the str it of Fuca and (iulf of Georgia : " The great and perplexing i:dal irregularities may therefore be said to be embraced between the strait of Fuca, near the Race Islands, and Cape Mudge, a distance of 150 miles; and a careful investigation of the observations made at Esquimault, and among the islands of the Ilaro Archipelago, shows that during the summer months. May, June, and July, there occurs but one high and one low water during the twenty- four hours, high water at the full and change of the moon happening about midnight, and varying but slightly from tbnt hour during any day of the three months; the springs range from 8 to 10 ft., the neaps from 4 to 5 ft. The tides are almost stationary for two hours i either side of high or low water, unless a"''ected by strong winds outh.de. ' During August, September, and October there are two high and low waters in the twenty-four hours; a superior and an inferior tide, the high water of the superior varying between Ih. and 8h. a. m., the range during these months from 3 to 5 ft., the night tide the highest. " During winter almost a reversal of these rules appears to take place: thus, in November, Deceml)er, and January the twelve-hour tides again occur, but the time of high water is at or about noon instead of midnight. " In February, March, and April there are two tides, the superior high water occurring from Ih. to 3h. p. m. Thus it may be said that In sum- mer months the tides are low during the day, the highest tides occur- ring in the night, and in winter the tides are low during the night, the» highest tide occurring in the day. "The ebb stream has always been found to run southw^ird through the llaro Arciiipelago, and out of Fuca Strait for two and one-half hours after it is low water by the shore, the water rising during that time; the ebb is stronger than the flood, and generally two hours' longer duration. " The tides during those months when two high and two low waters occur in the twenty-four hours are far more irregular than when there is only one twelve-hour tide ; and another anomaly exists, viz., the greatest range not infrequently occurs at the first and last quarters, instead of at the full and change of the moon." / r II a V5 5 THE INLAND SKA. 1 ^ I The Inland Sea. From Victorin to Queen Charlotte Sound, The P. C. S. S. Co.'s steamers after leaving Victoria skirt the shores of San Juan Island and enter the (iulf of (Jcorgia )»y the narrow Active Fasti between Mayne and Galiano Ishmds, discovered hy and lanied for the U. S. S. survey sliip Jcfiir, in lN5s. Tlie C. P. X. Co.'s steamers use Phimjier ]\tss, named for II. B. M. S. Phimper. Both are very nar- row, with steep, picturesfpie hanks. The (iulf of Oeoritia and its eonn(cting wateis comprise an Inland Sea greater in extent than that famous one lying between the three great islands of Japan, and it is more richly endowed by Nature. The 100-mile stretch between Active Ptss and Cape Mudge is the finest part of this Inland Sea, that is 40 and 60 miles broad off tlie mouth of the Eraser River. The Crown Mountains on the Vancouver shore are snow-capped all their length, and Mt. Baker is chief in the white host of Cascade peaks on the main- land shore. The fresh water of the Eraser River may be distinguished miles away on emerging from Active or Plumper Pass, the fresh flood strip- ing and mottling the surface with a paler green, and with its different density and temperature floating over the sea-water or cutting through it in solid bodies that everywhere show sharply defined '.'nes of separa- tion. Vancouver scouted the idea of there being a great river such as Caamano claimed to have found a year before and named the Rio Blanco in honour of the Prime Minister of Spain, although his ships were then anchored in the midst of these mottled waters which every tourist notes. The Fraser Fhrr, whose head-waters were discovered by Sir Alex- ander Mackenzie in 1798, and whose course was followed from head- waters to tide-waters by Simon Fraser in 180S, is described in all its length in Applotons' Canadian (Juide-Book, Part II. Full accounts of the cities of New Westminster and Vancouver are found there as well. Passengers arriving from the East l)y the C. P. R. may join the Alaska excursion steamers of the C. P. N. Co. at Vauconvcr. The mail steamers of that line do not always touch at Vancouver, and pas- sengers must join them at Victoria, save when they may have the chance to intercept them at Nutumiw. The Alaska mail and excursion steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. do not touch at Vancouver, and C. P. R. 18 THE INLAND SEA. passcujrers join them at Anacortcs or Virtoria as the agent may indi- cate. Steamers for Victoria and Nanaimo leave Vancouver daily upon the arrival of the overland trains. The Vicinity of Nannimo. Nanaimo, 40 miles across from Vancouver, population 4,000, is a busy colliery town, where Alaska steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. remain from six to twenty-four hours while coaling. It is fully descril)ed in The Canadian (Juidk IJook, Part II. Tl;e town itself offers little of interest to the tourist save the old II. B. Co. bh)ck-house, dating from 1883. Coal was discovered in iSoO through the Indians, who brought a canoe load of the Idack stones to the II. B. Co. blacksmiths at Vic- toria. At first the Indians were paid one blanket for 8 barrels of coal taken out. Four companies now operate the Nanaimo mines ; the har- bour is busy with waiting and loading ships, and the output is about 50i>,»M)0 tons a year, selling at the wharf for $3 and $3.50 per ton. The Alaska steamers as often coal at the Wellington wharves in Departure Bay, which is separated from Nanaimo harbour by New- castle Island, whose coal-pits and stone quarry are abandoned. A steam ferry connects Departure Bay wharves with Nanaimo, and a 5- niile carriage road through the forest gives beautiful outlooks upon ^.he water. The WvU'imjton mines lie 5 miles from the wharves, connected by railway and carriage road The mines were discovered by the late Richard Dunsmuir, Scotch coal expert of the II. B. Co., whoso horse stumbled and uncovered the outcroppings of the best coal in the neigh- bourhood. The British admiral, Mr. Dunsmuir, and one other ventured £1,000 each in developing the property. At the end of two years Mr. Dunsmuir bought the admiral's share for £50,000, and at the end of five years the remaining partner's share for £150,000. The 6 Dunsmuir mines at Wrllincfton and XoHh WcUington clear over $50,000 each month, and the pits are surrounded by long rows of colliers' tenements. Native, Chinese, Cornish, and frontier miners have l)een employed, and after a serious riot, calling for troops to suppress it, the owners closed one group of mines for two years, and its village was depopulated. Wellington commands a higher price than Nanaimo coal, and is used in city gas works on the coast. Dr. George M. Dawson, who recently examined these bituminous coal measures, foimd that the cretaceous rocks holding these coal-beds filled a trough 130 miles in length along the east shore of Vancouver Island. Dr. Harrington's analysis of this ^f ^^^"*^, ' . .■.'.',1 ^-I'S**"' r/te (ionje of thr Hotiidthco. THE INLAND SEA. 19 true Itituininous coal jjave an average of (i-iiO per cent of a.sh and 147 per cent of water. Besidts the carriage roads already mentioned, one is being cut to the sun)init of Mt. Benson, hehind Nanaiino. The Hurrounding forests are of greatO"«t interest to botanists, and wherever the rocks are uncovered they show the grooved and rounded carvings of a glacial garden. The carriage road is often a tunnel through the dense, dark foliage of tl:e huge l)(jug]as firs, and the last of the rich, red-barked madntna-trees or Menzies arlnitus grow among the evergreens. There is an especially fine grove of niachofias on the knoll between the co>l wharves and the block-house in Nanaimo. Ferns of many varieties and of gigantic si/e thrive — those <> and \) ft. in length being easily found at the end of summer — and among the many strange wild flowers there is a blue clover. Azaleas brighten the for- ests in May ; the sallal, thimble, salmon, and bhickltciries aljound in August. Avhii/s irijUluui, the Oregon sweet-leaf, or deei-foot, grows rankly everywhere, and Xanainio children gather bunches of this cn- duringly fragrant leaf for sale on steamer days. Sportsmen find deer, b«ar, and elk, or wapiti, in the wilderness, ({rouse and Chinese pheas- ants, which have spread from the first birds imi)orte(l by an Oregon club, abound. The smaller streams and lakes contain trout and njalnia ; salmon will take a spoon at the least, and cod are easily caught in the harbour. Camping outfits for a stay in the wilderness may Ite sj'cured at Nanaimo, and it is possible to reach many remote inlets by the smaller \ :'=sels that often call. The Lighthouse on the north end of L'nf ranee khnd, at the entrance of Nanaimo harbour is the last one on the British Columbia coast, and Nanaimo is the end of telegraph lines. On the Vancotiver shore the Crown Moitntains rise in a splendid line of peaks. Mt. Albert Edward HuOi',f^ ft.) is due W. of Texada Island. Alexandra Peak (♦),;}94 ft.) is next in line northward, followed by Crown Mountain ((i.lOO ft.) and by Victoria Peak (7,r.tM> ft.), the latter lying due W. of Discovery Passage. The Upper End of the C^ulf of Georgia. T/ie Great fiords and the Salixh VWa2. Phosidiorescent seas of wondei'ful brilliancy are often witnessed in the Gulf of (ieorgia, and black whales may always l)e seen spouting singly or in schools. Texitda Islaud is 27 miles in length and 4 in l)readth, with Mt. Shep- herd (2,yO(j ft.) rising above its many ridges. There are large deposits of coarse magnetic iron-ore, containing oidy •OOJJ per cent of phos- phorus, valuable for steel-making, and enhanced in value by the neigh- bouring coal-beds. Demlatiuii Sound i\m\ Bute Inlet indent the mainland, the latter the most famous fiord along the gulf. It is 40 miles in length, often less than a mile in width, and the precipitous njountain walls rise from 4,000 to 8,000 ft. in height. Soundings of 400 fathoms have been made without bottom, and the clear waters are so darkly green as to be almost black. Dense forests clothe these walls ; glaciers, snow-banks, and cascades gleam among the green. Lord Dufferin and the Marcpns of Lome began the praise of Biite Inlet as the scenic gem of the coast, and its reputation increases yearly. The Copv Mi(d(ff' village marks the limit of the Salish tribes which inhabit the coast between it and the head of Paget Sound. The Salish are fast dying, and some have become extinct within a decade. They had a totemic organization, possessed many arts, permanent homes, seaworthy and gracefid canoes, when the first whites came. Their black, shovel-nosed dug-out canoes make pictures in the still waters l)e- tween wooded shores, and the Chinook canoe is said to have given the lines for the American clipper ships of the China aiul East Indian trade. They are a superior i)eople, difl'ering thus from the canoe Indi- ans of South America, and quite as aggressive as the meat-eating tribes of the interior. Cape kludge potlatches, or feasts, where the host divides all his property among his guests, are famous, one in 1892 rep- resenting an expenditure of $6,0U0in the gifts distributed. In 1888 the neighbouring Cowichans had accumulated personal property estimated at $40*7,000. The British Columbia Legislature forbade potlatches, and in one year their wealth decreased to ^80,000 — the prohibition of potlatches quenching all their desire to accumulate. Before the THE INLAND SKA. 21 whites came tlio sinn-Iaiimiiific was used liotwoen tlio tiiht's. Since tlien the pcncriil iiuMliuiii ol' (-(iiiiiniinicatiuii, with wliitcs as well, has been the Cliiiiook .lar^roii coiiiiiouixlctl l»y II. H. C'o.'s factors from Saiish, Freni'li, Knjriisli, Hiis^ian, ami Kanalia sprocli. It lins a vncalm- hiry but no j^rammar, ami one (|ui(kly li-arns its simple airaiij;t'nionts from the printed manuals, ami tinds it a useful aceompli^hment on the coast. Siii'iin/i, the Cliinook name for an Indian, is a conuption of the French Hunviijii'. /ild/mtri/n/i, the usual salutation, is the mitive e»piivu- lent for the " Clark, how are you y " as a white trailer was always greeted by arriving friends. Seymour Narrows or Yticultn Rapids — The Great Miilstrom. Discovery Passape, 'J:{ miles in length, separates Vam-ouver from Valdex hlnntl, and the geological formations of its banks show how recently the two islands were one. Mi' jVo rroirs aie a ndle and a half long and less than half a mile wide, and the ebbing tide from the (rxlf of Georgia races through at a speed varying from to 10 and 12 knots an hour, liijiple Rock lifts a knife-edged reef for 8<>0 yards down the centre of the pass, with 18 ft. of watci- over these pinnacles, and depths of lOii fathoms around them. Ships are timed to reach the Narrows during the favourable (juarter hour before or after the ten minutes of slack water, when the whirlpool boils and simmers mildly. The few who have inadvertently g(me through with the racing tide have seon the whole gorge white with foam, waves leaving and break- ing madly, deep holes boring down into the water, fountains boiling up like geysers, and ships reeling, shivering, and staggering in the demon's hold. Ships steaming 12 knots an hour have made but a cable's head- way in two hours, and have often been swept back to await the favour- able half hour in the many convenient coves near. Many vessels were wrecked before the pass was fully known. The U. S. S. Saranac, a second-rate side-wheel steamer of 11 guns, was lost in Seymour Narrows June 18, 1875. It entered the pass too late, was caught in the current, and struck broadside on Ripple Kock. It swung off, was headed for the Vancouver shore, and made fast with hawsers to trees ; but there was only time to lower a boat with the pa- 22 THE INf.AND SKA. |KMfl and a few proviHioiis, wlien the Saravac sank (iO fatlioiiiri deep, iind the crew euniped on Hhore whih> u Htnall boat went to Nonaiinu for help. In IHK'i the ('. S. S. \Vnr/iu.sit( venttired within Yaeulta's realm too late, wuh seized hv the deni(»n, drawn down in a l)ij: eddy and hurleil against the rock with sueh force that itH fals/ keel was entirely torn away. \u 1HK:{ the little c(,astinj< .xteainer (>ni/>/)/(r, returninjr with the park and crew from northern canneries, took (ire a.s it entered the Nariows. The hemp rudder-ropes hiiitied ; the frantic passenjjers leaped overboard as the boat lareened and whirled in the ra;>ids ; the captain was siitked down in an eddy with his lit'e-preserver belted on, and few escajicd. The rin ('hinese lost with the (/nippkr. The Norwej^ian Malstrom, lyinp between the ntost southerly islands of the liolfoden K''0"P» iittains a s[)eed of ('» knots an hour, only when a westerly j; »Ie aids the tide : and the f^reater Salstrom in behind Troniso has but a little stron{,'er current at the ebb. The Head of Vancouver Island. Johmfom Sfniif, 55 miles in lenjjtth, and lirnnifhlon Sinilt, 14 miles in length, varying from 1 to 2 miles in width, continue the double panorama of forested slopes and bold mountain walls. The Alert l»ay cannery, on the S. side of Cormorant Island, has drawn a village of 150 Kwakiutl Indians from the abandoned village of Cheslakee, at the mouth of the Nimpkish Hiver. Missionaries have not been able to do anything with these people. The most southerly totem-pole, and the only one k..own to have been erected on the coast within ten years, is to be seen in front of the chief's house at Alert Bay, The graveyard is most interesting, with painted boxes, carved poles, many flags and streamers. The eccentric fashions in head-flatten- ing ceased with the Salish people at the line of Cape Mudge, and the Kwakiutl cranium was elongated, and drawn u\, into pyramidal shape. A few very aged people show tl'.c peculiar dapes of skull once in vogue, and fine specimens have been oi)ialned from graves. The Alert Bay Indians will give the old peace and festival dances in cos- tume, if a sufficient purse is made up by their white visitors. Fort Rupert, an old II. B. Co. post, is in Be