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▲1

THE

GUIDE-BOOK TO ALASKA

AND

THE NORTHWEST COAST

INCLUDING

THE SHORES OF WASHINGTON, BRITISH COLUMBIA,

SOUTHEASTERN ALASKA, THE ALF.UTIAN AND

THE SEAL ISLANDS, THE BERING AND THE ARCTIC COASTS

ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE

▲UTBOR OF "ALASKA : ITS SOUTHERN COAST AND 1HK SITKAN ARCHIPELAQO,"
"JINRIKI8HA DAYS IN JAPAN,'' AND "WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST/'

WITH MAPS AND MANY ILLUSTRATIONS

• • •
• •• .

*^ •• •

• • . J
b 9

. , • • • , . t

-• , ,* , • •

• • » • » «

LONDON

WILLIAM IIEINEMANN

1893

[All rlghtt reserved.]

I ■■ I dll^^anp— ■ ,i|l ^^i^mmm ui|l« mill I IIIJ|I I ■ II I «

•^•mm^m^fmm

PiiuWd In Anerim.
Copyright, 1»»8, l»y D. Appleton Jk Co.

, . , » . • • •

' ' • t , m , , ■•

< e t

• • ■• • c «

• . • . •

rmm

CONTENTS.

Introduction

PAOK

THE PUGET SOUND COUNTRY.

The Pacific Forcpt Reserve and Mt. Itainicr 6

The International Boundary Line 12

Vancouver Island 14

Tides 10

The Inland Sea 17

From Victoria to Queen Charlott« Sound 17

The Vicinity of Nanaimo 18

The Upi)er End of the (Julf of Georgia 19

Seymour Narrows or Yaculta Rapids— The Great Malstrom . . 21

The Head of Vaiicouvjr I>*land 22

From Queen Charlotte to Milbank Sound 28

Nakwakto Rapids 24

The Coast of British Columbia 25

From Milbank Sound to Dixon Entrance 27

Gardner Canul or Inlet 28

The Skeena River 29

The Tsimsian Peninsula 31

Nass River, Ol)servatory Inlet, and Portland Canal .... 83

The Queen Charlotte Islands 34

TheHaidas 37

ALASKA.

Climate of Southeastern Alaska 40

The Native Race op Southeastern Alaska— The Tlinoits . . 43

Tlingit Customs 45

The International Boundary Line 48

The Southern Islands 51

Mary Island Customs District 52

New Metiakahtla 53

Metl \ahtla 54

- ne Na-a Country 56

The Pacific Salmon 50

Salmon Canneries 57

35 1 91

CONTENTS.

PAUE

TBK IIETII.LAOIGEDO LaKEB ANT) BeHM CaNAL 58

Prince of Wales Island 60

Fort Wranoell 65

The STiKiNE River 68

Itinerary of the Stiklne River 70

Mining Regions of tlie Htilcine ?2

International Boundary Line on tlie Stilcinc 73

From Sumner Strait to Prince Frederick Sound via VVrang'jll

Narrows 73

Along Prince Frederlclc Sound 74

The Thunder Bay Giacier 75

Glacial Theory of the Natives 75

Kupreanoff and Kuiu Islands, the Land of Kalces .77

From Cape Fanshawe to Taku Inlet, Shucks and Sum Dum Bays . 78

Talcu Inlet and the Taku Glaciers 80

The Harris Mining District— .Juneau and its Vicinity .... 82

The Silver Bow Basin Mines 83

The Largest (Quartz-Mill in the World 85

Admiralty Island 87

Fisheries of the Region 88

Along Chatham Strait and Lynn Canal 90

The Chilkat Country and the Passes to the Yukon ... 92

The Great Tribt of the Tlingit Nation m

To the Yukon River and Mining Camps 96

Glacier Bay 97

Discovery and Exploration of Glacier Bay 97

Indian Traditions 98

Scientists' Camps 99

Itinerary of the Bay and Inlet 100

Muir Inlet and the Great Muir Glacier 100

The Lateral Moraines 103

The Rate of Recession 10*

The Ascent of Mt. Wright to the Hanging Gardens and Mountain-
Goat Pastures 105

On the Mainland Shore of Cross Sound 106

The Chicagoff Island Shores 106

From Chatham Strait to tub Ocean by Peril or Pooibshi Straits, 108

Baranof Island and the Russian Settlements 110

The Puichase of Russian America 112

The Transfer of Russian America to the United States . . . 113

An Abandoned Territory 114

Sitka, the Capital of the Territory of Alaska 115

Russian Orthodox Church of St. Michael 117

The Indian River Park 119

The Indian Village 120

The Sltkans and their Records 120

The Ascent of Verstovoi 128

CONTENTS.

ExcurelonB in (he Bay and Vicinity of Sitka isjji

The Ascent of Mt. Edgecumbe ! 124

Silver Bay and the Sitka Mining DlBtrict ...... ise

The Baranof Shore bODXH of Sitka * 127

The White Sulphur Hot Springs ....... i 128

"To Westward " from Sitka to Unalabka, along the Conti-
nental Shore ton

From Sitka to Yakutat ,on

Mt. St. Ellas ... 132

Continental Alaska 133

Prince William's Sound and its Great Glaciers .... . vn
Cook's Inlet and the Kenai Peninsula . . liw

Tides " " " • '*»

Kadiak and the Great Salmon Canneries ....!! I37

The Greatest Salmon Stream in the World ...... 139

The Shumagln Islands and the Cod Fisheries . . . ! ! 139

The Aliaska Peninsula 140

The Aleutian Islands . . Ul

Excursions from Unalaska 143

The Bering Sea and Shores ! . 144

The Pribylov or Seal Islands ........ U5

The Sea Island Leases .' * ' 146

Callorhinus Ursinus, the Fur Seal ....... 145

The Bering Sea Question .... 147

Other Islands in Bering Sea . 149

Bering Strait ' . 149

In the Arctic Ocean i ! 150

\ I

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

•I

_, FACING PAOB

RoADWAT IN Stanley Park, Vancouvek 14

Indians, near New Westminster I7

The Gorqe or the Homatiico 19

Johnstone Strait 22

A IIaida Totem-Pole ... w

Tlinoit Woman 44

HuTLi, or Thunuer Glacier 75

JUHEAU gg

The Treadwell Mine, Douglass Island 86

Front of Muir Glacier and Mt. Case, from West Moraine . . 101

View from End of Sainovar Hills 110

Salmon-Berry Market, Sitka 118

The Old Fur Warehouse, Greek Church, and Peak of Mt. Vers-

Tovoi, Sitka 121

Custom-house, Castle, and Barracks, Sitka 1^

Mt, Shisualdin 142

MAPS.

Glaciers of Mt. Rainier g

General Map op Alaska 39

The International Boundary Line 61

Chilkat and Chilkoot Bays 92

Glacier Bay 97

The Coast from Sandy Bay to Cape Edward 123

Mt. St. Elias Region 132

Chief Routes op Alaskan Explorers 134

The Route of the Alaska Excursion Steamers . . . In Pocket

TABLE OF DISTANCES.

NAUTICAL I1ILE8.

Snn Francirtco to Victoria, B. C 760

San Francirtco to Taconin 860

San KranciMco to Sitka («>nt8i('t> passage), 1,614 statute miles, or 1,298

San Krantlsco to Kadiuk. . . 1,760

San Francisco to Unaluska direct 2,413 statute miles, or 2,068

Tacoma to Seattle 26

Seattle to Tort Townsend 88^

Port Townscnd to Victoria 31

Victoria to Active Pass 88

Victoria to Xanainio 78

Victoria to Seymour Narrows 160

Victoria to Tongass Narrows (Kichikan) 660

Tongass Narrows to Port Chester 16

Tongass Nairows to Loring 24

Loring to Ycss Bay 22

Loring to Fort Wrangell 88

Fort Wrangell to (Jlenora, on Stikine River 160

F'ort Wrangell to Juneau 146

Fort Wrangell to Sitka 325

Juneau to Douglass Island (Tread well Wharf) 2^

Juneau to Berner's Bay 46

Juneau to Chilkat 89

Juneau to Muir Glacier 160

Juneau to Killisnoo 104

Juneau to Sitka 176

Chilkat to Bartlett's Bay 98

BartLtt's Bay to Muir Glacier 30

Bartlett's Bay to end of Glacier Bay 60

Muir Glacier to Tacoma 1,218

Muir Glacier to Sitka 160

Killisnoo to Sitka 72

Sitka to Silver Bay 12

Sitka to Hot Sulphur Springs 16

Sitka to Mt. Edgecurabe 13

Sitka to Chilkat 180

Sitka to Yakutat 200

Sitka to Kadiak 660

Sitka to Unalaska (1,283 statute miles) 1,100

Sitka to Tacoma 1,378

Unalaska to St. Paul, Pribylov Islands 200

St. Paul to Sitka 1,600

St. Paul to San Francisco 2,300

INTRODUCTION.

The Northwest Const is the general term tipplied by last cen-
tury explorers and diploiimts to all that part of the continent of North
Ameriia lying between the Columbia River and YaKu.at Ha;., or l>etwecn
its landmarks, Mts. Rainier and St. Elian. The S^ate of Washington,
the province of British Columbia, and the 8» itliea>f«?rn or Sitkan dis-
trict of Alaska occupy each a third of this coast. The bulk of the Ter-
ritor-' '1 Alaska lies beyond Mt. St. Elias. Its oast ofifers little of
interest or attraction beyond the Aliaska Peniiibula, and the interior is
sparsely inhabited.

Southeastern Alaska is the only i)ortion of the vast Territory
now accessible to tourists and pleasure travellers, and the Alaska mail
and excursion steamer routes include a tour through the archipelago
fringing the Northwest Coast and sheltering an inside passage over a
thousand miles in length.

The Coast Range presents a bold front to the o ean from the Colum-
bia river northward, and the Columbian and Alexander Archipelagoes are
half-submerged peaks and ranges — the veritable " Sea of Mountains.'*
Glaciers gem all these Cordilleran slopes, and the tide-water glaciers at
the head of Alaskan inlets are paralleled only in the strait of Magellan,
in Iceland, Greenland, and polar regions. The scenery is sublime be-
yond description, and there is almost a monotony of such magniKcence
n the cruise along the Northwest Coast. The mountains are covered
with the densest forests, all undisturbed game preserves, the waters
teem with hundreds of varieties of fish, and the northern moors are the
homes of great flocks of aquatic birds. The native people are the most
interesting study of ethnologists, and totem ism in a living and advanced
stage may be studied on the spot. Settlements are few and far be-
tween, mining and fish-packing the chief indu-sti x>s.

The climate of the Northwest Coast is far milder than that of the
Northeast Coast of the continent. The Karo Siwo, the Japan or
Gulf Stream of the Pacific, flowing northward from the Southern Ocean,
follows the line of the Aleutian Islands, makes a great loop in the

^•^"j-.-

a INTRODUCTION.

Gulf of Alaska, and flows southward along the coast. It greatly modi-
fies the climate, bends the isothermal lines northward, and makes cli-
mate and temperature depend upon distance from the warm Kuro Siwo
rather than on distance from the equator. The high mountain ranges
condense the soft, warm vapours accompanying the Japan Stream, and
the annual precipitation is greater than on any other part of the conti-
nent. The rainfall averages from 80 to 140 in. along the coast, but the
least mountain barrier, as with the Olympics on the Washin ton coast,
reduces the precipitation to one half on the lee side.

Steamship lines conveying United States and Royal mails give fre-
quent communication throughout the year with all the Northwest
Coast and are availed of by pleasure travellers. They offer unknown
delights of ocean travel, and from deck chairs tourists view near at
hand the tide-water glaciers and the highest mountains of the conti-
nent, pursuing the placid channels of water-floored canons for a fort-
night with scarce a ripple encountered. As a yachting region it offers
more than the Hebrides or the Norwegian coast.

Ill

RAIL AND STEAMER ROUTES TO THE NORTHWEST.
( See Route Map, in iMcket, last cover.)

Puget Sound is the usual point of departure for Alaska, and is
reached from the East by five great transcontinental railway lines : l)y
the tkmlhern Fadfic, from Ogden or San Francisco via Sacramento and
Mt. Shasta to Portland, and thence to Tacoma and Seattle ; by the
Union Pacijic, from Omaha and Ogden direct to Portland, Tacoma, and
Seattle ; by the Northern Pacific^ from St. Paul ma the Yellowstone
Park to Tacoma and Seattle; by the Great Northern, from Duluth,
Winnipeg, or St. Paul to Everett on Puget Sound and Seattle ; and by
the Canadian Pacijic, from Montreal via the Great Lakes, Winnipeg,
and the Canadian National Park to Vancouver and thence to Victoria
or Seattle. The excursion companies in Eastern cities usually choose
different routes in going and returning, giving their patrons opportunity
to visit in this way both the Yellowstone and the Canadian National
Parks.

Alaska tourists reach Victoria and Puget Sound ports by sea by
the steamers of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company (Goodall, Per-
kins & Co.), from San Francisco. This same company dispatches
semi-monthly mail steamers from Tacoma to Sitka the year round.
The Alaska mail steamers have accommodations for about 60 passen-

INTRODUCTION.

/V'

gers, take from 14 to 18 days for the voyage of 2,800 to 3,000 miles
from Tacoma to Sitka and return, calling at Victoria, Nanaimo, Mary
Island, Loring, Fort Wrangcll, Juneau, Killisnoo, and at many can-
neries and out-of-the-way places to receive and deliver freight dur-
ing the summer weeks. A day is given to the Muir Glacier in
Glacier Bay in the tourist season. The excursion steamer Queen, of
the P. C. S. S. Co., makes scmi-raonthly trips during June, July, and
August each year. It is scheduled to make the tour from Tacoma and
return in 12 days. It has accommodations for 250 passengers, carries
almost no freight, is not bound by a mall contract, and arranges its
course and movements to reach the places of interest at most con-
venient hours. It visits the Taku as well as the Muir .^lacier. These
steamers of U. S. register make no other stops in British Columbia
after coaling at Nanaimo. Fare, ^100 for the round trip from Ta-
coma.

The Canadian Pacific Navigation Company, of Victoria, dispatches
semi-monthly mail steamers from Victoria to Fort Simpson and way
ports the year round. When inducements are offered they visit the
Queen Charlotte Islands, but do not cross the Alaska line. The C. P.
N. Co. arrange for one or more excursions from Victoria to S.tka and
return each summer, a steam.or accommodatine from 130 to 150 pas-
sengers, visiting the larger Indian villages and settlements of the Brit-
ish Columbia coast, its principal fiords, and the chief points of interest
in Alaska. Passengers cannot land in Alaska from ships of British
register save at ports where U. S. customs officers are stationed. Fare,
$95 for the round trip from either Victoria or Vancouver to Sitka and
return.

The steamer accommodations by either line are first class in every
respect — the excursion steamers, catering to an expensive class of
pleasure travel, offering most luxuries and comforts. As all the voy-
age is in smooth, landlocked wate:s, save the short interval of Queen
Charlotte cound, sea-sickness is not to be anticipated by any one. In
the nightlejs days of the northern summers little is lost by darkness.

Private steamers may be chartered at San Fraucieoo, Tacoma,
Seattle, or Victoria at rates varying from *200 to $500 per day. There
are few pilots, however, able to take steamers the length of the coast,
auJ sailing yachts are helpless in the narrow, draughty channels,
swept by strong tidal currents, or on the open coast with its rocks,
ledges, and inshore currents. Launches with sleeping accommodations

INTRODUCTION.

for 4 or 10 may be chartered for hunting and exploring cruises at
Juneau, at the Treadwcll mine on Douglas Island, and sometimes at
Loring, Chilkat, and Killisnoo, at prices ranging from $20 to $40 per
day, according to size and fuel used. Launches chartered for long
cruises can meet the mail steamers at Mary Island or Fort Wrangel
if desired. Those intending to camp or cruise in launches should
take the greater part of their provisions and outfit from the Sound.
All commodities are naturally dearer in the Alaska settlements. A
few vegetables, with unlimited fish and game, may be had at any set-
tlement ; fresh beef at Juneau only. Indian canoes are rented from
$2 per day upward, each oarsman paid by the day in addition.

Touri.st.s make the usual preparation for an ocean voyage, carrying
their own deck chairs, heavy wraps, and rugs. The warmest wraps
are needed on cloudy and rainy days, and while the steamer^ lie off the
tide-water glaciers. Every provision should be made for the frequent
rains, although on many trips not a single rainy day is recorded. Rub-
ber shoes, boots, and leggings, waterproof coats and cloaks, add much
to the certain comfort and enjoyment of the voyage. Alpenstocks for
the glacier may be rented from the porters. Spiked shoes, ice txes,
and ropes are not needed.

United States money is current everywhere, and the Indians greatly
prefer silver coin to gold or notes in any dealings with whites. All bag-
gage of travellers is subject to a c'ustoms examination on crossing the
boundary between Washington and Britisli Columbia. The frequent
communication with China causes extra vigilance by health officers at
Victoria and Port Townsend for small-pox cases, and the traveller may
be saved untold annoyance and delays if provided with a vaccination
certificate before embarking. While cholera is present in Chinese
ports every summer, its germs have never survived the long ocean voy-
age in the quarter century of steam communication between our Pacific
coast and Asiatic ports.

The plan of this book follows as nearly as possible The Cana-
dian GuiPE Books, Parts I and II. Names of places and objects of
importance are printed in large-faced type or in Italics ; the names
of railway and steamship lines are printed in full once, and abbreviated
by initial letters whenever repeated : Hudson's Bay Co. becomes H. B.
Co., and the points of the compass are indicated by the initials N. for
north, S. for south, etc.

THE GUIDE BOOK TO ALASKA.

THE PUOET SOUND COUNTKY.

The first section of the Northwest Coast, including western Wash-
ington, is so fully described in Appletons' General Guide, that hut few
other references are needed for the Alaska tourist, who begins and ends
his voyagings here.

Tacoma, the county seat of Pierce County, ,)Opulation 36,006 by cen-
sus of 1890, is situated on a bluff 180 ft. high, overlooking Puyallup or
Commencement Bay, as named by Commander Wilkes in 1841, who there
f^ommenced his surveys of the Sound. The first house was built in
1852. The general passenger station of the X. P. R. R. is on the edge
of the bluff at the intersection of Pacific Ave. All baggage checked to
" Tacoma " is left at this station, unless checked to " Tacoma Wharf,"
the branch station a mile below at the water's edge. Sound, Alaska, and
ocean steamers depart from this wharf. Electric cars connect the two
stations, and there is an excellent cab and omnibus system with a mod-
erate tariff posted i; each vehicle. The Twoma^ on the edge of the
bluff and The Tourist, the million dollar hotfil of the Tacoma Land Co.
are the leading hotels — rates $3 per day and upward. Smaller hotels
on the European plan, and lodging houses, are numerous, and restau-
rants are found on Pacific Ave. and on the numbered streets leading
from it. The large hotels take on the character of watering-place re-
sorts in the summer season, and the arrival and anticipated departure
of Alaska steamers fill them to overflowing.

The steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. leave Tacoma every five days for San
Francisco and fortnightly for Alaska. The Puget Sound and Hawaiian
TraflBc Company dispatch a monthly steamer to Honolulu. The North-
em Pacific Company dispatch a steamer monthly for Hong-Kong and
Yokohoma. There is a daily steamer to Victoria, touching at the prin-
cipal cities on the Sound, and almost hourly communication by boat and

THE PUOET SOUND COUNTRY.

train with Seattle 30 miles distant. Many excursions invite the Alaska
tourist who has a few days at command. The great hop ranches around
PuyalUip may be visited by carriage, by trains of the N. P. R., and by
the Lake Park Motor Co.'s trains. Puyallup Valley is one of the garden
spots of the State, and in September the river banks are lined with the
canoes and tents of the Indian hop-pickers, who come from the Colum-
bia plains and even the Alaska islands. It is one of the points of de-
parture for mountain-climbers who essay the ascent of the great peak
of Mt. Rainier, now surrounded by a Government forest reserve.

The Pacific Forest Reserve and Mt. Rainier.

This park of 967,680 acres was created by proclamation of Presi-
dent Harrison, February 20, 1893. Forty-two townships of Pierce,
Lewis, Yakima, and Kittetas Counties were withdrawn from entry to

V Tfc\\ MOUNT RAINIER

From the "Northern
[he, Tooiooak .. TnuiwonUnenUl Burrrj."
Br BAILEY WILLIS,
1883.

1. Liberty ("ap, 14,-282. 2. Dome, 14,3.59. 3. South Peak. 4. Longuiirc Sprs.
.5. Paradise Valley. 6. Gibraltar. 7. Eagle Cliff. * Crater.

protect the head waters of the Puyallup, Carbon, White, Natchez,
Tietan, Nisqually, and Cowlitz Rivers which flow from the glaciers radi-
ating from the summit of Mt. Rainier like the spokes of a wheel. The

THE PUOET SOUND COUNTRY.

park measures 36 miles from E. to \V. and 42 miles from N. to S.
There are trails and waggon roads to the points of interest on the W.
and S. side.

^t. Rainier (14,444 ft.) is the highest peak in the Cascade Range,
chief in a group of volcanoes, and rises abruptly from the low forest
lands covering the 55 miles between its base and Puget Sound. Van-
couver saw it from Murrowstone Point, opposite Port Townsend, May
10, 1792, and named it for his friend Rear-Admiral Rainier, one of the
Lords of the Admiralty. It was smoking splendidly when Fremont left
the Columbia in 1842, the Pathfinder alluding to it as Regnier, and, with
many, believing that it had been named for Lieutenant Regnier, of Mar-
chand's expedition (1791).

The Puyallup Indians tall the peak Toh-ko-buh, the Nisquallys Tah-
ho-7nah, the Duwamish Ta-ko-bd^ all meaning the snowy or snow moun-
tain. For years the local and landsman's name was Tacoma, naviga-
tors using the chart name of Rainier, The rivalry between the cities of
Seattle and Tacoma made the mountain's name a subject of bitter strife,
the N. P. Co. printing it as Tacoma in all maps and publications. In
1890 the U. S. Board of (Jeographic Names decided that Rainier must
stand on all Government charts, maps, and publications, Vancouver's
charts having been accepted and used as authority for a century.

The peak is a symmetrical pyramid, as viewed from Seattle ; a
double peak from Tacoma ; and from Olympia or Yelm Prairie on the
line of the N. P., south of Tacoma, it shows its three peaks in outline
like Mt. Fairweather and Mt. St. Elias.

The first attempt to dim)) the great peak was made by Dr. William
Frazer Tolraie, surgeon of the II. B. Co.'s Fort Xis(|ually, in 1833, and
resulted in his reaching Tolmie Peak by way of Crater Lake on the
1,. ./. slope. Lieutenant A. V. Kautz reached the South Peak in 1857 ;
Messrs. P. U. Van Trump and Hazard Stevens reached the Dome or
Crater P; ak in August, 187*>; and Messrs. A. D. Wilson and S. F.
Emmons, U. S. Geological Survey, in Octol)er, 1870. At the close of
1892, 38 climbers were known to have reached the summit, all ascend-
ing by the Gibraltar Trail on the S. side, save Warner Fobes and two
companions who climbed the ridge on the N. E. side by the White
River Glacier, in 1884, and George Bayley and P. B. Van Trump on the
W. side in 1892. One woman. Miss Fay Fuller, reached the summit
August 10, 1890.

Eight days is the least time in which an experienced climber can
make the round trip from either Seattle or Tacoma to the summit of
Mt. Rainier and return. P. B. Van Trump, the veteran guide, lives at

THE PUOET SOUND COUNTBY.

Yelm Prairie ; George Driver, guide, may be communicated with through
7%e Tacoma^ Tacoma; and Mr. E. C. Ingraham, the Seattle publisher,
will advise any intending climbers who may ai)peal to him there. Eton-
ville (P. O.) is the point of real departure, and may be reached by daily
stages or hacks from Puyallup, Roy, or Yelm Prairie stations on the
N. P. R., either route involving a ride of 26 or 30 miles. The next
stage is 18 miles to Keniahan's Palisade Farm in Succotash (Su-ho-tas,
" black raspberry ") Valley, A third start is made before sunrise, in
order to ford the Rainier Fork of the Nisqually (6 miles beyond) before
the melting ice and snow raise the glacial torrent.

Longmire's hot soda springs hotel is headtiuarters for campers and
climbers, and offers plain shelter and comforts. A horse trail leads
thence 4 miles to the foot of the Nisqually Glacier, the Nisqually
River emerging from an ice cavern in its front. A switchback trail of
2 miles leads 1,200 ft. up the front of the Nisqually Bluff and ends in
Paradise Valley (5,700 ft.), a park at the snow-line carpeted with wild flow-
ers. Good climbers may leave their horses at the foot of the glacier, climb
and cross the ice to Paradise Valley, which is 5 miles irom the summit.
It is one day's hard climb with creepers or lumbermen's " calks," over
ice and snow to the foot of Gibraltar Rock (11,000 ft.), where the night
is spent. An early start is made to cross the dangerous ledges on Gi-
braltar's face and cut steps up a steep ice cliflf before the day's avalanches
begin, and the twin craters with a common central rim upholding the
snowy Dome or Crater Peak (14,444 ft.) may be reached before noon.
Climbers usually aim to spend the night in the ice caves formed by the
sulphur vent-holes in the crater. Food is warmed over steam jets, and
with lights the ice caverns may be explored for hundreds of feet. The
larger crater is three quarters of a mile in diameter, and both but vent-
holes of a vaster cone of preglacial days. The Liberty Cap, Tacoma,
or North Peak (14,000 ft.), the apparent summit seen from Tacoma, is 2
miles distant from South Peak, and the true or Crater Peak lies mid-
way. The height, 14,444 ft., as given in Gannett's Dictionary of Alti-
tudes, is the result of triangulations from a base-line on the Sound
measured by Prof. George C. Davidson. Mr. A. D. Wilson, of the North-
ern Transcontinental Survey, gives 14,900 ft. as the result of over one
hundred trigonometrical determinations from the E. side of the moun-
tain.

A shorter and easier Rainier excursion may be made by the Bailey
Willis trail from Wilkeson station on the N. P. R. to Observation Point

THE PUOKT SOUND COUNTRY.

at the head of the Edmunds Glacier, named for tlie Hon. George F.
Edmunds, of Vermont, acting Vice-President of the United States at
the time of his visit, in 1883. The Point (10,000 ft.) commands as ex-
tensive a view as the summit save to S. E., and the I >lack cliff 4,000
feet liigh rising immediately behind it may be distinguished from Seat-
tle. Ladies have reached the point by horse and sled without walking.
The Meadows, Crater Lake, Eagle Cliff, Lace Falls, Prospect Park, and
the Bailey Willis, the Edmunds, and the Puyallup (ilaciers feeding the
one river, are objects of interest on that route. The view from Eagle
Cliff which overhangs the Puyallup River 2,500 ft. below it, and com-
mands a full outline of the snowy summit, is extolled as the Jinest
mountain vicv.' on the Pacific coast by many Sierra and Alj)ine climbers.
The glaciers of Mt. Rainier were first reported by Messis. Wilson and
Emmons, of the U. S. Geological Survey, in 1870, and mapped by
Bailey Willis, of the Northern Transcontinental Survey, in 1883. The
Cowlitz Glacier, on the S. side, is 12 miles long and from 1 to 3 miles
wide, broken by several magnificent ice falls. No systematic explora-
tions or thorough study of these glaciers have been made. All have an
average motion of 12 inches a day in midsummer.

Original accounts of the earlier ascents of Mt. Rainier and descrip-
tive articles have been published as follows : Emmons, S. F., Bulletin
No. 4 of American Geological Society (N. Y.), session 1876-'77 ; Fobes,
Wanier, The West Shore Magazine, Seattle, September, 1885; Hen-
drickson, C. D., The American Magazine, London, November, 1887;
Kautz, A. v.. Overland Monthly Magazine, San Francisco, June,
1876 ; Muir, John, " Picturesque California," New York and San Fran-
cisco, part xviii. ; Stevens, Hazard, Atlantic Monthly Magazine, Boston,
November, 1876; Willis, Bailey, Columbia College (N. Y.) School of
Mines Quarterly, January, 1887 ; Report of Tenth Census (1880), Wash-
ington.

The Alaska excursion steamers usually leave Tacoma at daylight,
passengers going on board the night before. A few hours' stay are
allowed at Seattle, which is fully described in Appletons' General
Guide.

Seattle, population 42,837 by the census of 18ro, the commercial

rival of Tacoma, was named for the old Duwamish chief, and fronts

on Elliot, originally Duwamish Bay. The stations from which the

Northern Pacific, the Union Pacific, the Great Northern, the Columbia

& Puget Sound, the Seattle & Northern, and the Seattle, Lake Shore &

Eastern Ry. trains depart, are on the water front in close proximity

THE rUOKT SOUND COUNTRY.

to Yesler'rt iiiul Commercial Wliarf, where Sound and oteun steamers
land. Cabs and omnibuses have moderate tarifF of charges. The
Ran'ur and the I)enn;f, rates $:} a day and upward, are the leading
hotels. The ship's delay usually allows time for a ride by cable or
electric cars to the heights around the harbour or to Lake Washington
or to Lake Union, 2 miles distant.

Port Townsend, tlie " Key City of the Sound," population 4,568,*
is the port of entry for the Puget Sound customs district, and point of
departure of U. S. mails for Alaska. San Francisco passengers usually
join the Alaska steamers at this port. Excursion steamers make
short sto|)S, but mail steamers receive and discharge the larger part of
their cargo here, and often lie for 24 hours. The new Custom-House
and Court-llouse on the edge of the bluff command fine views, and
electric railways crossing the peninsula to the Fuca shore afford means
of passing the waiting hours. There is a large modern hotel near the
wharves of the Port Townsend & Southern Ry., which is under con-
struction, and will connect the west shore towns with the other rail-
way systems at Olyinpia. Fort Townsend, a two-company military
post at the end of the bay, may l)e reached by 6-mile carriage-roads, or
by small steamers which ply between the town and t!ie Irondale blast-
furnaces and Port Hadlock mill beyond. Small steamers run l)etween
Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Pysht, and Neah Bay on the Fuca
shore. There is a large village of Makah Indians at Neah Bay, 4 miles
E. of Cape Flattery. The women are the finest basket-weavers on the
coast, and their gayly coloured wares may be bought at Port Townsend
and Victoria.

Everette is the terminal point of the Great Northern Ry. from
St. Paul. Its rail communications permit passengers to join Alaska
steamers a* Anacortes or Seattle. Everette's growth has been since
1890, and among its industries are ship-yards where whaleback freight
and passenger steamers are built.

Auacortesy on Fidalgo Island, population 2,000, is 108 miles
from Seattle, and terminus of the Pacific division (Portland, Seattle &
Anacortes Line) of the N. P. R. There is a fine modem hotel. The
Anacortes, in a pine grove adjoining the wharf. Alaska and San

* Through neglect to enlarge the city limits and include newly
settled additions before the census of 1890, Port Townsend showed
little increase of population in the decade, and Jefferson County was
given credit for the great increase in inhabitants.

TIIK I'lJOET BOUND COUNTRY.

Francisco steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. call rejiularly, and tlio Sound
boats give daily communication with Seattle and Tacoma. Alattka
steamers sometimes visit Fairhaveii) population 4,000, and What-
coni) population lO,000, the two enterprising tow'ns on Heilin^hiim
Ray.

All this upper end of the Sound is dominated hy Mt. Baker ( 10,-
810 ft.), an extinct volcano, whose many native nanic.«i — I'ukhomis,
I'uksan, and Kulshan — all mean "the firc-nioimtain," (ialiano and
Valdes called it Mt. Cartnelo. Vancouver saw it later from the strait
of Fiica or New Duuf^oness, at first vaguely Hoatiuf; above the cl()u<ls,
and then the whole slope of "the lofty mountain discovered in the
afternoon by the third lieutenant, and in compliment to him called
by me Mt. Baker," Monday, April 30, 1792. Baker drew all of Van-
couver's charts.

The mountain has been in eruption many times in this century, by
Indian tradition. There was an eruption in 1852, when a great body
of lava flowed down the side of the mountain, and showed as a black
ma.ss amid the snow all winter. There are no trails on its slopes, and
it is much more difhcult of ascent than Mt. Hauicr. It was first as-
cended from the W. or Lummi side by Edmund T. Coleman, an English
landscape artist and Alpine climber, in August, 1H<)8.* Mr. E. S.
Ingtaham and a party of six left the railroad at Silver I/ake Station,
followed the Nooksack canon, and made the last climb on the W. side.
They found the summit, July 3, 1891, an elliptical plateau, a third of a
mile in length, probably a snow-filled crater. A snuill crater. 1,000 ft.
below, was filled with sulphur crystals and sulphurous gas, and steam
blew in clouds.

The group of Washin§;ton If^lands lying between Bellingham
Bay and the strait of Fuca ccmstitute Mnml CoKtifi/, with Friday
Harbour on 8an Juan Island as the county seat. There are ranches
and fruit farms on all these islands, and this maze of water-ways at the
boundary line offer great inducement in the nay of protection to
smugglers of opium and Chinese. The smugglers own swift schooners
and launches, and easily elude the one slow revenue cutter assigned to
the patrol of the sound.

San Juan Island^ 14 miles long and 6 or 7 miles wide, contains
vast deposits of limestone. A half million barrels of lime are shipped
from the ovens at Roches Harhoxcr each year. It is shipped to all parts

* See Mountaineering on the Pacific, Harper's Monthly, November,
1869.

THE PUGKT SOUND COUNTKY.

of the coast, and several vessels loaded with cargoes of lime have been
fired by a leak or a dashing wave.

THE INTKHNATIONAL BOl'NDAKY LINE.

San Juan Island nearly caused a war between (Jreat Britain and the
United States, both countries claiming ownership, as the Oregon Treaty,
June 15, 1H40, did not specify whether the boiindiiry line should pass
through Canal de Haro or Kosario strait. Sir James Douglass and
Governor Isaac Stevens both claimed jurisdiction. The Sheriff of
Whatcom County sold II. H, Co. sheep for taxes. An American citizen
shot a British pig, for whose loss $100 was no equivalent to its owner ;
and sentiment waxed bitter. General Harney hurried troops off from
Steilacoom, and established a military post on one end of the island in
1859, just as the British and American boundary commissioners had
begun their work of peaceable settlement. A British war ship re-
mained on guard ; the garrison was increased ; General Scott came
from Washington, and ottered joint occupation by both Governments
until the boundary line should be decided. Until 18Y1 a company of
United States soldiers held the southern end of the island, and an
equal number of British blue jackets the northern point. Tiiere was
amicable intercourse, the two garrisons entering into athletic contests
with ardour; and succeeding the Treaty of Washington, 1871, the
Emperor of (iermany, as arbitrator, decided that de Haro was the main
channel and the water boundary. The British withdrew in November,
1872, replanting gardens in order to leave San Juan exactly as they
found it. It commands the straits, and its thousand-feet-high hiil
aft'ords a site for the most effective battery in the world. The dip-
lomats split finest hairs in their arguments. One strait was said to
separate the continent fi-om Vancouver, the other to separate Van-
couver from the continent ; and Lord John Russell said : " San Juan
is a defensive position if in the hands of Great Britain ; it is an ag-
gressive position if in the hands of the United States. The United
States may faiily be called upon to renounce aggression ; but Great
Britain can hardly be expected to abandon defence."

The Strait of Juan de Fuca, leading to the Pacific, is a magnifi-
cent highway, 83 miles in length and 12 miles in width, but broadening
into a considerable sound at the eastern end. It is close walled on the
United States side by the Olympic range, chief among whose snowy
summits is "the Mt. Olympns of Meares," " the most remarkable moun-
tain we had seen off the coast of New Albion, ... a summit v/ith
a very elegant double fork," wrote Vancouver. Long before him Juan
Perez had named it the Sierra de Santa Romlina.

This is the fabled strait of Anian supposed to lead through to the
Atlantic, and for which the greatest navigators of two centuries
sought. Such a strait was first exploited by the Portuguese naviga-

THE PUOET 80UN!) COUNTRY.

tor Cortereal, who i-lainied to linve suiled froni the Labrador coast
through a narrow Htrait to the Indian Ocean in ttie year 15Uo. Kighty-
eight years later Maidonado 8aid that lie too had nailed through these
Htraitd of Anian to the Western Ocean. Then Adniiial del FontehaH-
tened northward from Callao in 1()4<) to intercept some Boston ships
that were to come through this northwest passage to interfere with
Spanish interests in the Pacific. Del Fonte gave iull details, and told
all about the great atchipehigo of San Lazaria and the great river
under the Slid parallel. He (lescribed the natives, gave the names of
their villages, their numbers, and, sailing up a river to a lake, passed
out by another river into the Atlantic, and there found a ship from
" Malteshusetts." In the year 15U2, Apostolos Valerianos, or Juan Je
Fuca, a Greek pilot in the en)ploy of the Viceroy of Xew Spain, took a
caravel into "a broad opening between 47 and 4H ." lie sailed east-
ward for 1(M) miles, and past divers islands for 20 days, where he saw
men clad in the skins of beasts, and emerged into the Atlantic. Con-
sidering his duty done, he sailed lack through his straits and down to
Aeapulco ; was sent to Spain to report the marvel to the king, and
some years later told his tale of discovery and royal neglect to an Eng-
lish consul in Italy, who tried vaiidy to interest Sir Walter Raleigh in
the matter and have the old man taken to England. Then began that
tieries of voyages in search of the straits of Anian, which employed all
the great navigators from Frobisher and Drake to Vancouver, and filled
their day with such true sea-stories as have no n)atch now. Every
adventurer and every navigator out of a job claimed to have gone
through the straits, or to be willitig to go at some one else's expense,
and the wits and romancers made fine play with the theme.

Captain James Cook, on his third and last voyage of discovery,
sought for the strait, but missed it, discovering Nootka, on the W. coast
of Vancouver Island, which the Spaniards liad previo^.-iy found, and
where they later built a fort to ward off Russian advances toward their
California colonies. In 1787 Berkely found the broad strait; in 1788
Meares sailed into and named it for Juan de Fuca; in 1789 Captain
Kendrick, of Boston, sailed around Vancouver Island ; in 179<» Lieu-
tenant Quimper entered Puget Sound and the Gulf of Georgia ; in 1791
Caamano explored and discovered the Eraser River ; and in 1792 Galiano
and Valdes surveyed the Gulf of (Jeorgia and circumnavigated the
great island, overtaken and accompanied by Vancouver. The latter
had been sent in accordance with the provisions of the Nootka Con-
vention, which, in adjudging indemnity for British ships seized and sold
for invading the Spanish colonics, decreed that the Spaniards should
abandon their Nootka fort, and the Northwest Coast become virgin soil
free to trade and settlement by all people. Vancouver was charged to
investigate the alleged discovery of De Fuca's strait, and to explore
the coast for a passage into the Atlantic, Spanish explorers, and Boston
and British fur-traders had preceded him in many instances, but al-
though he met them, saw their charts, and received much aid, his
charts and narrative ignore their work, and, being the first published,
won him a discoverer's honours throughout. His charts were the only

14 VANCOUVER ISLAND.

on«'H in us«' In'twepn PuRct Sniiud ftinl Dixon Entrnnco until the \ViII<(H
Kxploiinj: Kxpcdiiion surveys, in iS-li, turnisli«'<l now clmrts fntin Coni-
nicrii'cinent Hay to the (Julf of (leorjria, and the liichiirds and Pender
sin vevH, lMf»H-'<)H, of tlie entire Hritisli Coinnihia eoast \vei«' made the
basis of a new set of a(hninilty eharts. Vaticoiiver is tlie autitority
for many charts of soutiieastcrn Alaska now in use.

Vancouver Island.

The inland of Qiia(h"a* and Vaneouvcr, as those two agreed to call
it in 17*.»2, is tlie largest island on the Paeitic coast <»f North Anieriea,
Hoo miles long, from 40 to 8<» miles uide, and in area nearly ecjinilling
Ireland, whieli its climate resemldes. It is mountainous throughout,
the main range, a continuation of the Olympiis, showing many peaks
<>,0O(» and S,tM>(» ft. in height. The shores ate deeply indented, many
iidets penetrating to the heait of the island, which is densely wooded
throughout, with occasional small prairies at the southern end. Mineral
deposit.s have been uncovered at many places, and extensive coul fiehls
are worked on the (Jeorgian shore. Settlements have advanced •lowly
on the west coast, which is beset with many dangers to navigation,
Imt which in titne must attract fishing communities. S<<)ttish crofter
families have already been colonized for that purpose.

After the abandonment of Nootka, the first settlement was made by
the H. B. Co. in 1814, when they built a fort at the native Vamoxim,
" the place where camass grows," which became Fort Victoiia. In 1849
her Majesty assigned all of Vancouver Island to the II. 13. Co. forever.
In 1868 it was bought back by the Crown for £r»7,5t><», just as the
Fraser Rivei- gold cxcitemt nt brought ;i(),o(>0 people to the colony at
once, and a canvas city of l.'i,0()(» inhabitants surrounded the stockade
for months. Vancouver was a separate colony, and Sir .lames Douirlass
its <jovernor, until I88t'>, when it l)ecame one province with British
I'Olumbia, under the same distinguished (Jovernor. In 1871 British
Columbia joined the Doudnion of Canada, with un understanding that
the Domiiujn would build a railway to the Pacific. Delay in fulfilling
that promise caused disaffection and a strong sentiment for annexation
with the United States. The completion of the C. P. R. in 1885
brought a revival second only to Fraser River times, and the island
cities have grown as rapidly as their younger rivals on the nniinland
shore. Extensive fortifications protect Esquimault, the British naval
station, which commands the strait of Fuca.

Virtoria, population 20,000, fully described in The Canadian
GiiDE-BooK, Part II, offers much to the tourist who awaits the

* Quadra was Spanish commandant at Nootka in 1792.

Kinnlirin/ in Stdtili'i/ I'dik. rdiirouiuT.

VANCOUVER ISI-AND.

Alaska steamer at that point. The Driard (tjiS.SO per day) and the
Dallas ($3 per day), are the leading hotels, and Miirhocufs, or the
Poodle-Dog Besfanrani, is famous lor its uisine. The P. C. S. S. Co.'s
steamers land passenjrers at the outside wharf, and the C. P. N. Co.'s
steamers land at the wharves at the inside harbour. An electric railway
connects the outside wharf with the business part of the city, and its
branch lines reach Es(iuima\ilt and the suburl)s. Cabs are clieap,
and the drives about Victoria are much famed for tho picturesque
scenes tliey lead to, and their perfect road-b'Mls. There is daily
communication between Victoria, New Westminster, Port Townsend,
Seattle, and Tacoma. The C. P. N, Co.'s mail steamers make semi-
monthly trips to Barclay Sound, on the W. coast of the island, and
to the N. coast. C. P. N. Co.'s excursion steamers dci)art at inter-
vals for Alaska during the summer months, calling at Vancouver,
Alert Bay, Fort Rupert, River's Inlet, China Hat, Gardiner's Inlet, Port
Essington, Metlakahtla and Fort Simpson, in addition to the chief
points of interest in Alaska — Fort Wrangel, Sitka and Juneau, and
skirting past but not landing at the Muir and Taku Glaciers.

The P. C. S. S. Co.'s steamers regularly call at Victoria in going and
returning, and their steamers plying between San Francisco and the
Puget Sound ports make it a regular port of call every five days.

The C. P. R. Royal Mail Steamship Line to China and Japan call at
Victoria in going and returning. The steamers of the N. P. R. Co. to
China and Japan, and the Puget Sound and Hawaii Traftic Co.'s Hono-
lulu steamers, also call at Victoria.

The Island Railway, 8(» miles in length, connects Esfjuimuult and
Victoria with Nanaimo on the Gulf of Georgia. It wr s l)€gun in 1884
and complete'i in 1888, its projectors, Robert Dunsmuir and his sons,
James Bryden, Lelund Stanford, C. P. Huntington, and Charles Crocker,
receiving a Government subsidy of ^750,000, and a grant of land ten
miles in width on either side of the road-l)ed, with all the minerals and
timber included. Passengers may, at their own expense, agreeably
break the steamer trip by taking this short rail route between Victoria
and Nanaimo, and enjoy the island forests and scenery.

In a single day, Oi' during the usual waits of Alasl-a mail and ex-
cursion steamers at Victoria, the tourist can see the war ships an'! dry
dock at Esquimault ; the boiling-tide rapids at the Gorge, the true
Esquiraault, or " rush of waters " ; the Colonial Museum ; tlie Sonj^hies
Camp across the haibour ; the curio shops in Johnson Street ; Chinatown ;

^ i

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

«l

and on certain days hear the Military Band play in Beacon Hill Park.
The Dominion taritf prevents the shops from offering many inducements
to shoppers and amateur smugglers to the United States. Sooke,
Saanich, Cowichan, further inlets and distant lakes, with their tidy
British inns, snug shooting-boxes, or rough camps, offer much to
sportsmen and anglers who may |)rolong their stay.

TIDES.

The tides of the Pacific coast differ greatly from those of the
Atlantic. Lieutenant R. C. Ray, U. S. N., in the U. S. Uydrographic
Office, " Coast of British Columbia," explains these Pacific tides in
this reference to those of the str it of Fuca and (iulf of Georgia :

" The great and perplexing i:dal irregularities may therefore be said
to be embraced between the strait of Fuca, near the Race Islands, and
Cape Mudge, a distance of 150 miles; and a careful investigation of the
observations made at Esquimault, and among the islands of the Ilaro
Archipelago, shows that during the summer months. May, June, and
July, there occurs but one high and one low water during the twenty-
four hours, high water at the full and change of the moon happening
about midnight, and varying but slightly from tbnt hour during any
day of the three months; the springs range from 8 to 10 ft., the neaps
from 4 to 5 ft. The tides are almost stationary for two hours i either
side of high or low water, unless a"''ected by strong winds outh.de.

' During August, September, and October there are two high and low
waters in the twenty-four hours; a superior and an inferior tide, the
high water of the superior varying between Ih. and 8h. a. m., the range
during these months from 3 to 5 ft., the night tide the highest.

" During winter almost a reversal of these rules appears to take
place: thus, in November, Deceml)er, and January the twelve-hour
tides again occur, but the time of high water is at or about noon instead
of midnight.

" In February, March, and April there are two tides, the superior high
water occurring from Ih. to 3h. p. m. Thus it may be said that In sum-
mer months the tides are low during the day, the highest tides occur-
ring in the night, and in winter the tides are low during the night, the»
highest tide occurring in the day.

"The ebb stream has always been found to run southw^ird through
the llaro Arciiipelago, and out of Fuca Strait for two and one-half
hours after it is low water by the shore, the water rising during
that time; the ebb is stronger than the flood, and generally two
hours' longer duration.

" The tides during those months when two high and two low waters
occur in the twenty-four hours are far more irregular than when
there is only one twelve-hour tide ; and another anomaly exists, viz., the
greatest range not infrequently occurs at the first and last quarters,
instead of at the full and change of the moon."

THE INLAND SKA.

^ I

The Inland Sea.
From Victorin to Queen Charlotte Sound,

The P. C. S. S. Co.'s steamers after leaving Victoria skirt the shores
of San Juan Island and enter the (iulf of (Jcorgia )»y the narrow Active
Fasti between Mayne and Galiano Ishmds, discovered hy and lanied for
the U. S. S. survey sliip Jcfiir, in lN5s. Tlie C. P. X. Co.'s steamers
use Phimjier ]\tss, named for II. B. M. S. Phimper. Both are very nar-
row, with steep, picturesfpie hanks. The (iulf of Oeoritia and its
eonn(cting wateis comprise an Inland Sea greater in extent than that
famous one lying between the three great islands of Japan, and it is
more richly endowed by Nature. The 100-mile stretch between Active
Ptss and Cape Mudge is the finest part of this Inland Sea, that is 40
and 60 miles broad off tlie mouth of the Eraser River. The Crown
Mountains on the Vancouver shore are snow-capped all their length,
and Mt. Baker is chief in the white host of Cascade peaks on the main-
land shore.

The fresh water of the Eraser River may be distinguished miles
away on emerging from Active or Plumper Pass, the fresh flood strip-
ing and mottling the surface with a paler green, and with its different
density and temperature floating over the sea-water or cutting through
it in solid bodies that everywhere show sharply defined '.'nes of separa-
tion. Vancouver scouted the idea of there being a great river such as
Caamano claimed to have found a year before and named the Rio
Blanco in honour of the Prime Minister of Spain, although his ships were
then anchored in the midst of these mottled waters which every tourist
notes.

The Fraser Fhrr, whose head-waters were discovered by Sir Alex-
ander Mackenzie in 1798, and whose course was followed from head-
waters to tide-waters by Simon Fraser in 180S, is described in all its
length in Applotons' Canadian (Juide-Book, Part II. Full accounts of
the cities of New Westminster and Vancouver are found there as
well.

Passengers arriving from the East l)y the C. P. R. may join the
Alaska excursion steamers of the C. P. N. Co. at Vauconvcr. The
mail steamers of that line do not always touch at Vancouver, and pas-
sengers must join them at Victoria, save when they may have the
chance to intercept them at Nutumiw. The Alaska mail and excursion
steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. do not touch at Vancouver, and C. P. R.

THE INLAND SEA.

passcujrers join them at Anacortcs or Virtoria as the agent may indi-
cate. Steamers for Victoria and Nanaimo leave Vancouver daily upon
the arrival of the overland trains.

The Vicinity of Nannimo.

Nanaimo, 40 miles across from Vancouver, population 4,000, is a
busy colliery town, where Alaska steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. remain
from six to twenty-four hours while coaling. It is fully descril)ed in
The Canadian (Juidk IJook, Part II. Tl;e town itself offers little
of interest to the tourist save the old II. B. Co. bh)ck-house, dating
from 1883.

Coal was discovered in iSoO through the Indians, who brought a
canoe load of the Idack stones to the II. B. Co. blacksmiths at Vic-
toria. At first the Indians were paid one blanket for 8 barrels of coal
taken out. Four companies now operate the Nanaimo mines ; the har-
bour is busy with waiting and loading ships, and the output is about
50i>,»M)0 tons a year, selling at the wharf for $3 and $3.50 per ton.

The Alaska steamers as often coal at the Wellington wharves in
Departure Bay, which is separated from Nanaimo harbour by New-
castle Island, whose coal-pits and stone quarry are abandoned. A
steam ferry connects Departure Bay wharves with Nanaimo, and a 5-
niile carriage road through the forest gives beautiful outlooks upon ^.he
water. The WvU'imjton mines lie 5 miles from the wharves, connected
by railway and carriage road The mines were discovered by the late
Richard Dunsmuir, Scotch coal expert of the II. B. Co., whoso horse
stumbled and uncovered the outcroppings of the best coal in the neigh-
bourhood. The British admiral, Mr. Dunsmuir, and one other ventured
£1,000 each in developing the property. At the end of two years Mr.
Dunsmuir bought the admiral's share for £50,000, and at the end of five
years the remaining partner's share for £150,000. The 6 Dunsmuir
mines at Wrllincfton and XoHh WcUington clear over $50,000 each
month, and the pits are surrounded by long rows of colliers' tenements.
Native, Chinese, Cornish, and frontier miners have l)een employed, and
after a serious riot, calling for troops to suppress it, the owners closed
one group of mines for two years, and its village was depopulated.
Wellington commands a higher price than Nanaimo coal, and is used
in city gas works on the coast. Dr. George M. Dawson, who recently
examined these bituminous coal measures, foimd that the cretaceous
rocks holding these coal-beds filled a trough 130 miles in length along
the east shore of Vancouver Island. Dr. Harrington's analysis of this

^^^"*^,

' . .■.'.',1 ^-I'S**"'

r/te (ionje of thr Hotiidthco.

THE INLAND SEA.

true Itituininous coal jjave an average of (i-iiO per cent of a.sh and 147
per cent of water.

Besidts the carriage roads already mentioned, one is being cut to
the sun)init of Mt. Benson, hehind Nanaiino.

The Hurrounding forests are of greatO"«t interest to botanists, and
wherever the rocks are uncovered they show the grooved and rounded
carvings of a glacial garden. The carriage road is often a tunnel
through the dense, dark foliage of tl:e huge l)(jug]as firs, and the last
of the rich, red-barked madntna-trees or Menzies arlnitus grow among
the evergreens. There is an especially fine grove of niachofias on the
knoll between the co>l wharves and the block-house in Nanaimo.
Ferns of many varieties and of gigantic si/e thrive — those <> and \) ft. in
length being easily found at the end of summer — and among the many
strange wild flowers there is a blue clover. Azaleas brighten the for-
ests in May ; the sallal, thimble, salmon, and bhickltciries aljound in
August. Avhii/s irijUluui, the Oregon sweet-leaf, or deei-foot, grows
rankly everywhere, and Xanainio children gather bunches of this cn-
duringly fragrant leaf for sale on steamer days. Sportsmen find deer,
b«ar, and elk, or wapiti, in the wilderness, ({rouse and Chinese pheas-
ants, which have spread from the first birds imi)orte(l by an Oregon
club, abound. The smaller streams and lakes contain trout and njalnia ;
salmon will take a spoon at the least, and cod are easily caught in the
harbour. Camping outfits for a stay in the wilderness may Ite sj'cured
at Nanaimo, and it is possible to reach many remote inlets by the
smaller \ :'=sels that often call.

The Lighthouse on the north end of L'nf ranee khnd, at the entrance
of Nanaimo harbour is the last one on the British Columbia coast, and
Nanaimo is the end of telegraph lines.

On the Vancotiver shore the Crown Moitntains rise in a splendid
line of peaks. Mt. Albert Edward HuOi',f^ ft.) is due W. of Texada
Island. Alexandra Peak (♦),;}94 ft.) is next in line northward, followed
by Crown Mountain ((i.lOO ft.) and by Victoria Peak (7,r.tM> ft.), the
latter lying due W. of Discovery Passage.

The Upper End of the C^ulf of Georgia.

T/ie Great fiords and the Salixh VWa<jes.

Sechelt Ami of Jervis Inlet contains a great tidal rapid whose
roar is heard for miles, and which only needs to be exploited to obscure
the fame of the Norwegian Malstrom and Salstrom.

!i ;i

- I

THK INLAND SKA.

Sechelt MiMMion in Trail Buy, across the j^iilf from Xanaiino, is
a tidy villajre witli a large Iloinan Catliolio churcli, where excursion
steamers often toiieli. A first representation of the I'assion Play was
given liere in IHDO, and native eoinniunieaiits from all parts of Britisli
Columbia assembled for the religious ceremonies, which occupied three
days. These scencjs from the life and crucifixion of Christ were re-
peated at the mission opposite Vancouver City in 1H91, and at Mission
Junction on the Fraser in 1H1>2.

Phosidiorescent seas of wondei'ful brilliancy are often witnessed in
the Gulf of (ieorgia, and black whales may always l)e seen spouting
singly or in schools.

Texitda Islaud is 27 miles in length and 4 in l)readth, with Mt. Shep-
herd (2,yO(j ft.) rising above its many ridges. There are large deposits
of coarse magnetic iron-ore, containing oidy •OOJJ per cent of phos-
phorus, valuable for steel-making, and enhanced in value by the neigh-
bouring coal-beds.

Demlatiuii Sound i\m\ Bute Inlet indent the mainland, the latter
the most famous fiord along the gulf. It is 40 miles in length, often
less than a mile in width, and the precipitous njountain walls rise from
4,000 to 8,000 ft. in height. Soundings of 400 fathoms have been
made without bottom, and the clear waters are so darkly green as to be
almost black. Dense forests clothe these walls ; glaciers, snow-banks,
and cascades gleam among the green. Lord Dufferin and the Marcpns
of Lome began the praise of Biite Inlet as the scenic gem of the
coast, and its reputation increases yearly.

The Copv Mi(d(ff' village marks the limit of the Salish tribes which
inhabit the coast between it and the head of Paget Sound. The Salish
are fast dying, and some have become extinct within a decade. They
had a totemic organization, possessed many arts, permanent homes,
seaworthy and gracefid canoes, when the first whites came. Their
black, shovel-nosed dug-out canoes make pictures in the still waters l)e-
tween wooded shores, and the Chinook canoe is said to have given the
lines for the American clipper ships of the China aiul East Indian
trade. They are a superior i)eople, difl'ering thus from the canoe Indi-
ans of South America, and quite as aggressive as the meat-eating tribes
of the interior. Cape kludge potlatches, or feasts, where the host
divides all his property among his guests, are famous, one in 1892 rep-
resenting an expenditure of $6,0U0in the gifts distributed. In 1888 the
neighbouring Cowichans had accumulated personal property estimated
at $40*7,000. The British Columbia Legislature forbade potlatches,
and in one year their wealth decreased to ^80,000 — the prohibition
of potlatches quenching all their desire to accumulate. Before the

THE INLAND SKA.

whites came tlio sinn-Iaiimiiific was used liotwoen tlio tiiht's. Since
tlien the pcncriil iiuMliuiii ol' (-(iiiiiniinicatiuii, with wliitcs as well, has
been the Cliiiiook .lar^roii coiiiiiouixlctl l»y II. H. C'o.'s factors from
Saiish, Freni'li, Knjriisli, Hiis^ian, ami Kanalia sprocli. It lins a vncalm-
hiry but no j^rammar, ami one (|ui(kly li-arns its simple airaiij;t'nionts
from the printed manuals, ami tinds it a useful aceompli^hment on the
coast. Siii'iin/i, the Cliinook name for an Indian, is a conuption of the
French Hunviijii'. /ild/mtri/n/i, the usual salutation, is the mitive e»piivu-
lent for the " Clark, how are you y " as a white trailer was always
greeted by arriving friends.

Seymour Narrows or Yticultn Rapids — The Great

Miilstrom.

Discovery Passape, 'J:{ miles in length, separates Vam-ouver
from Valdex hlnntl, and the geological formations of its banks show
how recently the two islands were one. Mi<lway in the pass are the
Seymour Narrows, named for the Hritish admiral, but known to the
natives as Yucuffa, the home of an evil s|)irit, who lived in its depths
and delighted to snatch canoes and devour thi'ir occupants, and to vex
and toss whah'S about. The Richards and I'ender surveys reduced the
fabled dangers to exactness. 77i>' jVo rroirs aie a ndle and a half long
and less than half a mile wide, and the ebbing tide from the (rxlf of
Georgia races through at a speed varying from to 10 and 12 knots
an hour, liijiple Rock lifts a knife-edged reef for 8<>0 yards down
the centre of the pass, with 18 ft. of watci- over these pinnacles, and
depths of lOii fathoms around them. Ships are timed to reach the
Narrows during the favourable (juarter hour before or after the ten
minutes of slack water, when the whirlpool boils and simmers mildly.
The few who have inadvertently g(me through with the racing tide
have seon the whole gorge white with foam, waves leaving and break-
ing madly, deep holes boring down into the water, fountains boiling up
like geysers, and ships reeling, shivering, and staggering in the demon's
hold. Ships steaming 12 knots an hour have made but a cable's head-
way in two hours, and have often been swept back to await the favour-
able half hour in the many convenient coves near. Many vessels were
wrecked before the pass was fully known.

The U. S. S. Saranac, a second-rate side-wheel steamer of 11 guns,
was lost in Seymour Narrows June 18, 1875. It entered the pass too
late, was caught in the current, and struck broadside on Ripple Kock.
It swung off, was headed for the Vancouver shore, and made fast with
hawsers to trees ; but there was only time to lower a boat with the pa-

THE INf.AND SKA.

|KMfl and a few proviHioiis, wlien the Saravac sank (iO fatlioiiiri deep,
iind the crew euniped on Hhore whih> u Htnall boat went to Nonaiinu
for help. In IHK'i the ('. S. S. \Vnr/iu.sit( venttired within Yaeulta's
realm too late, wuh seized hv the deni(»n, drawn down in a l)ij: eddy and
hurleil against the rock with sueh force that itH fals/ keel was entirely
torn away. \u 1HK:{ the little c(,astinj< .xteainer (>ni/>/)/(r, returninjr
with the park and crew from northern canneries, took (ire a.s it entered
the Nariows. The hemp rudder-ropes hiiitied ; the frantic passenjjers
leaped overboard as the boat lareened and whirled in the ra;>ids ; the
captain was siitked down in an eddy with his lit'e-preserver belted on,
and few escajicd. The rin<i;s of floating kelp that drift in the race-way
are said to be the (|ueues of the 7<> ('hinese lost with the (/nippkr.
The Norwej^ian Malstrom, lyinp between the ntost southerly islands of
the liolfoden K''0"P» iittains a s[)eed of ('» knots an hour, only when a
westerly j; »Ie aids the tide : and the f^reater Salstrom in behind Troniso
has but a little stron{,'er current at the ebb.

The Head of Vancouver Island.

Johmfom Sfniif, 55 miles in lenjjtth, and lirnnifhlon Sinilt, 14 miles
in length, varying from 1 to 2 miles in width, continue the double
panorama of forested slopes and bold mountain walls.

The Alert l»ay cannery, on the S. side of Cormorant Island, has
drawn a village of 150 Kwakiutl Indians from the abandoned village
of Cheslakee, at the mouth of the Nimpkish Hiver. Missionaries have
not been able to do anything with these people. The most southerly
totem-pole, and the only one k..own to have been erected on the coast
within ten years, is to be seen in front of the chief's house at Alert
Bay, The graveyard is most interesting, with painted boxes, carved
poles, many flags and streamers. The eccentric fashions in head-flatten-
ing ceased with the Salish people at the line of Cape Mudge, and the
Kwakiutl cranium was elongated, and drawn u\, into pyramidal shape.
A few very aged people show tl'.c peculiar dapes of skull once in
vogue, and fine specimens have been oi)ialned from graves. The
Alert Bay Indians will give the old peace and festival dances in cos-
tume, if a sufficient purse is made up by their white visitors.

Fort Rupert, an old II. B. Co. post, is in Be<ti'<r II(trhnut\ 9 miles
beyoud Bronrfhton Strait. The fort was built in 1819, and stiongly de-
fended because of the natives near it and the fretpient visits of the
Haidas and northern tribes. There was a heavy earthquake shock in
August, 1866, and in 186Y the ranche was bombarded by H. B. M. S. Clio
until the tribe surrendered some hidden murderers. Since then the Kwa-
kiutls have been peaceable and their annals eventless. The young

3
"^

ly «

QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO MILBANK SOUND. 23

men desert the village every summer, to work at mills and canneries.
The block houses and gateway of the old fort remain, and also the chiefs
house, a famous old lodge 100 ft. long and SO ft. wide, resting on
carved corner posts. The great potlatch dish, in shape of a recumbent
man, holding food for 100 people, is shown. Coal-mines were worked
by the H. B. Co. before the Nanaimo veins were discovered, and the
cleared fields and gardens are still productive.

Beyond the Brouijliton Archipchujo there are several fine fiords,
the narrow Kinff Come 7n/f/ having an 18-mile-long wall of snow-peaks;
and McKcnzie Sound vertical walls that almost shut the sunlight from
the flooded gorge, that is only foreground and approach to the noble
peak Vancouver, named for Sir John Philip Stepiiens, of the Admiralty.

At the W. end of Gcdlano Mand there is a spire of rock" crowning
a promontory 1,200 ft. high, which Admiral Phelps, U.S.N ,and Hon.
J. G. Swan argue to be " the great headland or island with an exceed-
ing high pinnacle or spired rock like a pillar thereon " which Juan de
Fuca saw. They show how easily the ureck may have sailed for
20 days behind Vancouver Island, and, believing the ocean beyond
Queen Charlotte Sound to be the Atlantic, retraced his course from
this pinnacla in good faith.

From dueen Charlotte Sound to Milbank Sound.

At Queen Charlotte Sound there is a 40 mile gap in the island
lelt. Captam Gray first charted the expanse as Pinturd Sound, for
the Boston owner of .iis vessel. Vancouver recharted it as named by
Captain Wedgeborough, o^ tiie Kxpcritttrnf, in 17Srt. Sometimes the
swell of the outer ocean may be felt, but more often it is a stilled ex-
panse, where mists aiul fogs p<jrpetually hover and jday fantastic tricks
among the vagged islands and the near snow-peaks. Piloting, which is
all by sight along this coast, is often l)y echo along this reach, and the
mariner's acute senses tell, as the sound is flung back, how the shores
are trending, and have even detected, by a strange <|uality in the echo,
the presence of another ship's sails. Feeling around its rocky edges,
both of Vancouver's slups struck ; and in Jul;., ]hh".), the U. S. S. Su-
wanec was lost on an unknown rock in Shadi'dl Pasfdr/r.

The Kuro Siwo strikes full against this entrance, on its recurved
course, and its warm air, condensed by Mf. Strphf}iH and the white host,
lies in solid banks upon the water, in and out of which one passes as
through a door ; or the tips of a ship's masts spaikle in the sunlight of

24 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUNF TO MILBANK SOUND.

a high white plain, the Imll invisible. Bands of fog pencil the hillpide
with Japanese conventional cloud effects; a gray canopy truncates the
mountain pyramids ; or filmy, downy tatters of clouds, mere mist trailers
finer than cobweb, drift across green heights, are tangled in the forest,
or gathered ii. still ravines. Every branch and twig sparkles with vivid
greenness in ttus dewy air, washed clean with perpetual mists.

The Kuro Kiwo gives the British Columbia coast the climate of
Ireland, of Devonshire and Cornwall, and fosters a far richer vegetation
on shore, all ferns, bushes, and thirsty plants growing as in a hot-house.
In forests as dense as any that Stanley describes, and choked with an
undergrowth through which an explorer must cut his way, water-
courses, and the paths made to them by bears, are the only possible
footways below the level of a thousand feet. The Menzie and Merton
spruces, and the Douglas fir, stand as closely together as blades of
grass, and the eye sees only leagues and leagues of tree-tops on every
slope and shore, their foliage so intensely green, when near at hand,
blending and toning to the richest bronze, grey and olive in the dis-
tance, and often glow ing in the late afternoon as if the foliage reflected
some concealed coloia", or the slopes were clad in l)looming heather. No
forest fires darken the air beyond Vancouver's shores, and the scar of a
land-slide or wind-break is clothed with green by a ■second season. A
crevice in the rock for safe lodging, a handful of sand or gravel to
cover its I'oots, and a young spruce will prick forth and spread its thin
branches, until in time its own needles form a soil and support thick
layers of moss. A whole forest thus thrives on air and rocks, the ti-ees
crowding one another in their growth, and, with no tap-root to steady
them, they fall by acres before a storm wind. Their own weight
often pulls the thin skin of earth from the rocks, and acres of perpen-
dicular forest go thundering down into the bottomless channels, and
Nature decorates the heights afresh. "Madronos disappear, and the fa-
mous yellow or Alaska cedars {Citprcssh niifk-akrusis) of the Northwest
coast show in the forest from Fort Rupert northward.

Nakwakto Rapids.

The Grea! MaUtrom or Rcvcnihle Tidal Cataract.

Belize lulet is the strangest piece of glacial caning on the coast
as il- zigzags and straggles by many deep cuts to the foot of Mt. Ste-
phens. It holds a mabtrom twice the strength of Seymour Narrows,
in the long, narrow gateway that gives entrance to its wonderland.
There are Indian villages along those canons, but it is only for ten min-
utes at a time that a canoe can pass the Nakwakto Rapids to reach
them. In the first narrows of SUnr/shii/ Channel^ which are but 200
yards wide, there is a maelstrom where the tide makes 9 knots an hour
at the turn. The cafion continues for 5 miles and widens to 400 yjirds
at the Nakwakto Rapids, the Kahtmilla of the ni»,tives, and the uicst

QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO MILTLVNK SOUND. 25

remarkable place of its kind on the coast. The ebb tide races out at a
speed of 15 and 20 knots an hour, the waves running up the face of
Turret Isle, which rises 80 ft. above the water in mid-channel. There
is magnificent scenery in the labyrinth of farther inlets, and at the end
of one arm there is a peak 5,000 ft. high which easily acquired the
name of Pet'peiidlcular Mountain.

The Coast of British Columbia.

The Innide Pasmqe through the Cobnnbian ArchipeJayo.

Fitzhugh Sound, first in *he line of channels separating the Co-
lumbian Archipelago from the mainland of British ColuinV»ia, trends
30 miles due N. a smooth river running between mountain banks.
Just within its entrance, on the shores of Calvert Isfatid, is Oatsoalis
or Safety Cove, a mariner's refuge since Duncan's time (1787). Van-
couver anchored and repaired ships there before returning to Nootka in
1792, and his men explored the neighbouring inlets in small boats. Mail
steamers and canoes rest there when fog, storm, or darkness prevent
their crossing the sound. In August, 18S5, the P. C. S. S Amwi broke
her main cylinder on her way southward and was anchored in the cove
for ten days, while Captain James Carroll made the 221-milo voyage to
Nanaimo in a life-boat in four days and returned with help. The pas-
sengers made it a gala season of adventure and exploration, and re-
grotled leaving. Mt. Buxton, 3,430 ft., is the sharp-pointed peak on
ihe ' alvert shore.

fJ ivers Inlet, the next indentation of tlie mainland coast, peno-
I it.'; .y> miles inland, widening into loch-like expanses so sheltei-ed by
the ..repipitous ridges and ranges that it is clear and sunny within when
the Sound is banked witii fog. There are three canneries at the end,
and the C. P. N. steamers call ngularly durit.g the summer season.
The Bella Bellas' village of Owikino ;s near the larger canner\, but
presents little of interest in the way of poles or graves. Two canoe-
loads of Owikino seal-hunters were killed at Sorrow Island by the Kit-
kahtlas, a Tsimsian tribe, in January, 1892, and a bitter Indian war re-
p.ilted; war canoes carried chanting braves in paint and regalia up
;V!\t ; vlui^'n the channels seeking foes, and the constables required the
tud of gunboats to suppress and settle the difficulty.

Vancouver explored Burke Cannl and its branches, Bentimk
Arm and Dean Canal in 1793, his second season on the Northwest
Coast. There is a large native village at the end of Bentinck Arm,
8

20 QUEEIT CHARLOTTE SOUND TO MILBANK SOUND.

60 miles from the sea, where Sir Alexander Mackenzie completed the
first crossing of the continent of North America in l^OS. The Bilqulas,
or Bella Coolas, inhabiting these fiords, are pn estray branch of the Sa-
li&h people, isolated in the heart of the Kv r.kintls country, and they re-
ceived Mackenzie hosjjitubly, and informed him that " Macubah " (Van-
couver) had just been there. Dr. Dawson says that the Bihjulas' trail
to the interior and the upper Fraser has existed fr(>m time immemo-
rial, and the Tinneh tribes called it the Grease Trai/, because of the
supplies of oulachon and other oil acquired in trade with the Bilqulas.
There was a II. B. Co. post at this important point, and in Cariboo
times many prospectors reached the diggings over the old Indian trail
from Burke Canal.

Cascade Inlet, in Deo: \V?!a'. is the Geiranger of this coast, so
strangely wanting in great . Us. The fiord is 11 miles long and

three (piartcrs of a mile wiu^ , ith innumerable waterfalls leaping
from its tremendous cliffs. \ ancouver wrote that these cascades
" were extremely grand, and by much the largest and most tremendous
we had ever beheld, tlieir impetuosity sending currents of air across
the canal."

One of Vancouver's men. Carter, died, and others were made numb
and ill for days, from eating mussels in Poison Cove. Special provi-
dence, far more than Duncan's or Caamano's charts, helped Vancouver to
successfully navigate in this region, where a maze cf water-ways, and hun-
dreds of ("ul-<h'-sa(H test the pilot's memory. One attractive little open-
ing in Hunter Maud is known as The Trap^ and a vessel getting in can-
not turn around nor make a tour of the blockading islet which is the bait
to the trap, but must be pulled out backward. An English gunboat
was once lost in this labyrinth region for two weeks ; and when Mr.
Seward visited Alaska, in 1869, his pilot also lost the way. The Bella
Bellas have a bad name, and when they took one aboard to steer the
ship through to Fhilaijsott\'i Channel^ a pile of silver dollars was put
before the pilot as the reward for a safe passage, and pistols pointed
at either ear promised otiier reward for any treachery.

Jacobseii's Inlet is named for the Tromso scientist, who has
made large collections and long ethnological reports to the Bergen and
Berlin nmseums, and once took seven IJelhi Coolas to Europe. There
is a splendid waterfall 8(iO ft. high in this inlet.

Lama Passage, named for an old II. B. Co. ship, is a beautifully
wooded way, its northern shore broken at one place by a graveyard
with kennels of tombs painted with totemic designs, and many flags and
streamers flying from tall poles. In an opposite cove, on Campbell
Island, the remnant of the Bella Bellas are gathered in a model village,
with mission, church, school, store, and cabins shining with whitewash,
and so dazzling one with their immaculate array that passers-by dis-
credit the curdling tales of the past. They were long the most treach-
erous, bloodthirsty, and turbulent tribe, and made (he life of the H. B.

FROM MILBANK SOUND TO DIXON ENTRANCE.

Co. agents such a dang«n'()us iinprisoniiient that the post of Fort Me-
Loui/hlin was only maintained for a few years after its establiahnient in
1834. In 1868 the company tried it again, and the new fashions in
Jitlla Bella liave made life profitah^e and wortli living.

-. >;

From Milbank Sound to Dixon Entrance.

7'he Great Scenic Rer/lon.

There are only 8 miles of Milbank Sound to be crossed to re-
gain the shelter of the great islands again, and it is so fiinged with
islets that a ship is often past it before its passengers have suspected
any opening to the ocean. The finest scenery on the steamer's regular
course through the Colunibian Archipelago lies between Mill)ank Sound
and Dixon Bntrauec, a double panorama of unbroken beauty 200 miles
in length. The tourist cannot afford to lose an hour of this scenic
watch. Green slopes are reflected in greener waters, every tree and
twig growing double, and only bands of alga? or tide-washed rock tell
where reflections part. The shores rise almost perpendicularly for
1,000 or 1,500 ft., above which snow-dad ridges rise as high again,
and the channels vary from an eighth of a mile to 2 miles in width.
Tall trees c'iml) and cling to these walls like vines, and cascades slip-
ping out from the snovv-l)anks flash among tlie green and go singing to
the sea. The mountain contours tell where lakes must lie ii; rocky
amphitheatres, and overflow in these roaiing ribbons.

Finlayson Channel is 24 miles in length, from 1 to 2 miles
in width, with depths of 50 and 150 fathoms. Helmet Mountain on the
W., and Stripe Mountain marked with the line of a great landslide, aie
at the entrance of the channel. Bell Peak (1,2H0 ft.), on Cone Island, is
commonly known as China //at, from its outlines. The village of
China Hat and fantastic graveyard are seen from the C. P. N. Co.'s
steamers, which regularly call for mails. Sara/i hhoul divides the
channel's northern end. Its landmarks are two waterfalls that leap
from the snow-banks and descend in full view to the sea. Tolmie
Channel, W. of Sarah Island, is 15 miles in length, and from a half
mile to a mile in width. The scenery increases in charm as the ships
pass tlirough Ilichiuli ^Varrows, a quarter of a mile in width at the head
of Sarah Island, and enters

Graham Reach, 17 miles lor.g and less than a mile in width.
McKay Reach continues the magnificent panorama for the next 8 miles.

FROM MILHANK SOUND TO DIXON ENTRANCE.

ll !

The mountains rise more ul)ruptly, granite clififa tower perpendicularly,
their front glistening with glacier polif^h nnd latticed over with fine
Ci'scades ; more watcil'alls and land-slides are reflected in the glassy
reaches ; great alcoves on the heights betray the hidden lakes, and
side canons, lesser Yosemites, lead away into the wilderness of Princess
Jioyal Mond. In McKay Reach and Wiight Sound there is no bottom
at '225 fathoms.

At Wrijijht 8oniid submerged peaks stand as islands ; six diverg-
ing channels open, and the tourist with an Admiralty Chart is as puzzled
as were Caamano and Vancouver a century ago, to know which way
leads on or out to the ocean.

(•nrduer Canal or Inlet*

Ursula and Dcva.stafiou Channcln, behind (Jribbel Island, lead to
the grand canal which Vancouver named for Vice-Admiral Sir Alan
Gardner, who recommended that Vancouver be given charge of the
expedition to Nootka and the Northwest Coast. Whidbey explored it
in that summer of 1798, and reported that it was "almost an entirely
barren waste, nea.'ly destitute of wood and verdure, and presenting to
the eye one rude mass of almost naked rocks, rising into rugged moun-
tains, more lofty than any he had before seen, whose towering summits
seeming to overhang their bases gave them a tremendous appearance.
The whole was covered with perpetual ice and snow that reached, in
the gullies formed ))etween th.; mountains, close down to the high-
water mark, and luiuiy waterfalls of various dimensions were seen to
descend in every direction " — a description that might as coldly de-
scribe the Sogne Fiord, the Naerodal, the Yosemite, or any otiier rival
canon's walls. But Mr. Whidbey went the 50 miles of its length,
" where it terminated, as usual," and the explorer gave up getting into
Hudson Bay by that route.

Tourists consider the Gardner Canal, or Kitlnp Canon, the
culmination of the scenery of the British Colunibiau coast, as it cleaves
its narrowing way for 50 miles between gloomy walls, to where a great
mountain blocks the end, with glaciers resting on its sides, cascades
foaming down to join the sea, and cannery buildings dwarfed to toys
at its base.

The Old Man, a conspicuous landmark on the canon walls, rises
perpendicularly 2,000 ft. from the water, and soundings at its base-
line give a depth of over 1 ,400 ft. The Islander has been laid along-
side, and passengers have gathered ferns from the seamed and over-
hanging wall. Irvinff Falls, on the opposite wall, descend 2,000 ft. by
successive leaps, and there is a fine frothy fall draining the glacier

FROM MII-BANK SOUND TO DIXON ENTKANCK.

.above the Price cannery. The Kiflups, who inhabit tlif siminicr salm-
on villages on the inlet and the oulichan village on the luimini, River at
its head, have few legends connected with the fiord. Kitliip, in Tsiin.^iaii
speech, is derived from Kit, " the i)eoplc," and hijtn, '* >«ewed garments "
— some vague distinction of earlier days. The cannery was establislud
by Coates, the Scotch thread mannfacturer, In 18S1>. ('. I*. N. excur-
sion steamers first visited the fiord in August, ISDl.

Then' is a village of Christian Indians at llarfhii llnrhour who
were formerly members of Mr. Duncan's comiuunity at Metlakalitla.
and who, without siding with their leader or the liishoj), withdrew to their
old home when the troubles began. They have a neat village with a
church, school-house, and saw-mill, and the men find summer work at
the canneries.

Greiiville Channel, the arrowy reach cutting northwestwardly
from Wright Sound for 45 miles without bend or lireak, was named for
the Right Hon. liord Grenville, Secretary of State, who gave Vancou-
ver his commission for the expedition to the Northwest ("oast. Un-
til (Jardner's Inlet was exploited Grenville Channel was considered
first of Columbian fiords, and the deep, glass-floored, echoing green lane
is still a boasted show place on the Alaska route. Loivc Inlet is the
only break in the wall, and the cannery is niched in a fold in the rocks,
through which a salmon stream cascades from a high lake. Right
Hon. William rUVti Archipelago is W. of Grenville Channel, and, in
(■hathaiii Sound, Cape Ibbetson immortalizes another of Vancouvei's
friends in the Admiralty office.

The 8keena River.

Skeena River, the largest stream in the province above the
Fraser, is navigable by small steamers for HO miles above its mouth,
and for 200 miles by canoes. Its name — iS'Xrc, "terror, calamity, trou-
ble," and Eena, " a stream " — was given it because of poisonous shell-
fish, which killed many canoe-loads of the first people who came around
from Nasfi River.

It is the greatest salmon streain of the Xorthwest Coast, and can-
neries dot its shores for 20 miles. Vancouver was first to enter it, and
named Por< Emmfton for a naval friend; and the II. B. Co.'s post was
built there in 1836, adjoining the native -illage of Spuksut. It is the
most Important settlement on the river, with a hotel, church, sehool,
cannery, mill, and fish-refrigerating works, where salmon are frozen,
hermetically sealed, and shipped to England. It was considered as a

;]ii

FkO>r MILBANK HOUND TO DIXON ENTKANCK.

i J

possible torniimis for the ('. P. R., heinj; 450 mill's iicam' to Asiatic
ports than the towi\s at the month of tlie Frascr, and its distanee from
the United States houndary and immunity in ease of war were also in it8
favour. Land actiuired a great value with the prospect, and is still held
at $1(H» and *;{0() an acre, as the owners Relieve that a branch of the
])rosent trunk line must soon come northward.

The cann(!ries at I'ort Essington, Claxton, Cascade, Aberdeen, In-
verness, Standard, and Mumford Landing produce over H(>,0(»0 cases of
salmon each season. Tiiey are properly restricted by Government regu-
lations, and ofliccrs aie stationed on the river during the season to
enforce them. Each (ishing-boat pays a tax of $20 a soa.<on. The
si/e of the nets is prescribed by law, and a weekly close season from
Saturday to Monday allow a fraction of the salmon to reach the spawn-
ing-grounds. Over loo fishing-boats may be seen at once when the
seines are being set or drawn, and more than .$50,000 was paid in
wages on the Skeena during the salmon season of 1892. The work is
performed by Indians, Chinese, Japanese, (Jreeks, and Scandinavians,
and many rcn\ain during the winter to work in the saw-mills. Lumber
sells at fifty cents per thousand in this section.

The Kwakiutls' empire ceases at the Skeena mouth, and the TIs/wj-
,v/<<».v, the greatest of the coast tribes, occupy the coast to the Alaska
line. The Tsimsians have always held a monopoly of the inland trade,
maintained a grease trail with the interior, and kept the Tinueh in ad-
mirable subjection. The few of these mountaineers occasionally seen
on the river explain why Fort Stager and Fort Ilazelton, on the upper
Skeena, remain the only II. B. Co.'s stockaded posts.

There have been gold fevers and great diggings on the upper Skeena
for 80 years. The Omiucca excitement at the head-waters of Peace
River in ISTl emi)tied Skeena camps, but in 1HS3-'S4 there was a
boom on Lome Ci-eek, and fishermen dropped their nets, and loggers
left for the mines.

C. P. N. mail and excursion steamers do not go beyond Port Essing-
ton ; but while freight is being handled, tourists have often opportunity
to take latmches or canoes to the Hot Springs ',i miles across, or to the
waterfall, 12 miles above. The Western Union Telegraph Co. built its
lines to Telegraph Creek, 60 miles above the mouth of the Skeena River,
in 1805, but the wires through the dense forest country were soon
wrecked.

•^M

FROM MILIJANK SOUNf) TO DIXON KXTRANCK.

The TNimHifin Poiiiiifsula.

JIctlakalitlH — "the open diaunt'I," oi- "tin' dinunt'l open at

either end " — is a half-ruined Tsiuisian viUape, which for 27 years was

the liomc of Mr. Duncan's colony of Christianized Tsimsians — an actual

Arcadia, a living Utopia and model comuiune that proved much that

political economists doul)t.

William Duncan was sent from England in iKf)? as a lay worker for
the Churcii Missi(m Society, in response to Admiral Prcvosi's account of
the terrible condition of native life on this coast. Sir James Douglass
and all the II. B. C'o.'s agents tried to dissuade him from going to Fort
Simpson, where there was the greatest numl)er of the worst savages in
the region. Within three years Mr. Duncan had learned the language, and
so attached 50 of the Tsimsians to him that they went with him to this
site of an abandoned Tsimsian <".tlement. They cleared, drained, and
cultivated the land, built a village of tidy two-story cottages, a church,
school-house, saw-mill, salmon cannei-y, and co-ojjerative store. They
had their own trading schooner, tiicir brass band and tire luigade, anda
village council of elilcrs ordered municipal affairs. They learned to do
carpentering, house-building, cabinet-making, shoemaking, coopering,
tanning, and rope-making. The women were taught to weave shawls,
blankets, and cloth from mountain goat wool, to sew and cook. It was
a model industrial settlement, and there was evolved a community life
more ideal than anything Plato or Bellamy has imagined. Kvery visitor,
from Lord Duffcrin to the roughest seafaring frontiersman, could but
praise this " work that stands absolutely without parallel in the history
of missions." For 20 years the peace and prosperity of the SOO Metla-
kahtliins were unbroken. In 18S1 Bishop Ridley objected to the form
of the simple religious services Mr. Duncan held, and the omission of
the comnninion service ; and the Society was disappointed at the few
converts and baptisms reported. After continued criticism and inter-
ference, Mr. Duncan resigned his mission. The bishop established
himself in residence and failed to win the respect or confidence of the
people. He quarrelled with the head men, he struck them with his
fists, he carried a rifle, and called for a man-of-war to protect him.
The people petitioned him to go away, and begged Mr. Duncan to re-
turn. Church and state upheld the bishop ; the community property
was called church property. Mr. Duncan returned, and suggested emi-
gration to the United States side. When ready to leave, the Canadian
authorities prevented the pilgrims taking anything but their personal
property with them, and their houses, mills, and works were left intact
as church property for the 120 of 800 who remained with the bishop.
The empty dwellings fell to decay, the clearing partly relapsed to un-
derbrush, the large church was partitioned off to hold the handful of
worshippers, and when a few years later the bishop departed, the ruin
was complete. The nearly deserted village remains as a monument of
misdirected religious zeal, of civil injustice and op' ression, the shame
and reproach of church and state,

'\2

FROM MILHANK SOINI) TO OIXON KNTUANCK.

The Jn|>aneHic einployt'd in tlio Skociiii River fisheries liave lniilt
a little villaf?e of their own near Methvliiihtia, and reproduced a corner
of Japan. They have their own schooner an*' cannery, and liavc
begun the mantifacture of fancy woodenware for tlie tourist trade.
They affiliate readily with the l)etter class of natives, and, besides the
reseMd)lunce in features and many customs, their u.se of the same car-
[)enters' and carvers' tools amazes the white residents.

Fort Simpson, the most important II. B. Co. post on the coast,
is K) miles beyond AfefluAahffn. Rocks and ledges oblige ships to
make a great detour to reach the wharf. In IS',]\ the II. B. Co. built
a first Fort Simpson, 40 miles up tlie Xoss River, but as the Tsimsians
firndy held their monopoly of trade with the interior, the prf/fitless
isolation only endured for three years, and the j)ost was moved to this
bit of Tongass ground on the N. shore of the Tsimsian peninsula. It
retained the name given it in Inmour of Lieutenant Simpson, R. N., who
was in charge of the company's ship-building, and who died at the first
fort on the Nass.

The Tsimsians had originally twelve villages on the Skeena for
salmon-fishing, twelve on the Nass for the oulachan-fishing, and twelve
permanent winter villages on the coast near to halibut grounds. The
beaches about Fort Sim|)son had been common camping grounds for
all tribes for more than a century, and the Tsimsians, the greatest
traders and grease merchants of the coast, did a large business at their
spring fair, when the oulachan silvered sound and inlets lor miles, and
the waters were alive with canoes from every quarter. After the fort
was built the May fairs were larger; 14,000 savages were often en-
camped around the stockade ; the beach was black with canoes, and
perpetual revel and bedlam went on. The fort was often attacked ;
attempts were nuide to burn it, and when Sir George Simpson enforced
prohibition in trade in 1842, the savages withheld their furs for the
Boston ships, which continued to give rum. The fur-trade has now
fallen to the meiest fraction, the stockade and block-houses have been
torn down, and the warehouses, where bear, otter, beaver, fox, n)ink,
and marten skins used to dangle by the tens of thousands, are all but
empty. The II. B. Co. fortress is only a general country store. The
day of beads, red calico, and toy looking-glasses has gone by, and
clocks, fancy lamps, sewing-machines, orguinettes, silk goods, chem-
ical fire-engines, and marble tombstones are objects of Tsimsian pride.

The IniHan ViUarfc on the island wholly changed its appearance
within the decade of 188()-'90. The old lodges were replaced by cot-
tages, and the totem-poles nearly all destroyed, only a half dozen
remaining from the forest that used to encircle the beach. The tribe
paid $750 for the granite monument over the grave of their old chief,
on which is chiselled : " In Memory of Abraham Lincoln, Chief of the

■

t i

FROM MII.TIANK SOl'ND TO DIXON 1:NTKAN( K.

'!/

Kilshce TrilK'. Died ut I'ort Simpson, .Inly 21, ISUO, aped 85 voarf.
He said : ' Let nic die in pence. Pence I leave with you.' "

Methodist missioiiaiiert succeedeil Mr. Dtuican at Fort Simp.xoii,
and the Rev. Mr. Crosby and lii.s aids have almost parallelled the Met-
lakahtla miracle, and the church, school, hospital, and museum are the
points of preat inti-rcst. The Salvation Army has a hand among the.se
Tsimsians. The villa}i;e is governed by a muiucipal council of elders.
They have their fire company and brass band, and during the snuill-pox
e|)idemic at Victoria in 1892 all sul)mitted to vaccination, and closed
the bridge to the village whenever a Victoria steamer was in port.

All the Dixon Kntrance region is bathed in perpetual mists and
rains, and the moist greenhouse atmosphere of summer forcfs a rank
vegetation. The finest raspberries in the world are said to grow in the
old II. B. Co. gardens — inch-long globes of crims-on dew that melt at a
touch — rose-red iiubbles that have never felt dry air, a withering sun,
or a dust |)article.

Fort Simpson is confident of becoming the terminus of the next
great transcontintental railroad line, the farthest city of the Canadian
Northwest. Suburban tracts and wild timber lands are held at a pre-
mium, aini sites for round-house and car-shops have been discussed.
The railway will follow the S. shore of Work ('anal, which cuts south-
ward to within a mile of the Skima River. Mt. McXed, on its N. shore,
is a snowy, conical peak 4,;iOO ft. in height. The fiord, but 800 yaids
broad, widens into a lake-like expanse at the end, and the scenery
along its walls is higldy praised.

Nhs.s River, Observatory Inlet and Portland Canal.

Na»ii liivcr heads 100 miles inland, and its shores are historic
ground to all the coast tribes, the scenes of half the myths and legends,
the cradle of the native race. There are several canneries and mills
along its banks, ard an Indian mission. The site of the original Fort
Simpson is almost opposite Echo Cove, the most pictures(|ue cannery
site on the coast. The scenery up to that point is wonderfully fine,
and the canons and gorges beyond otTer every temptation t( 'Mi se con-
templating any canoe trips. The salmon-fisheries of the Mass are
regulated in the same way as those on the Skeena.

The coming of the oulichan in March and April is occasion for the
great fish festival of the year, and the tribes gather from all (juarters
to reap the Nass harvest. The Haidas bring their canoes to exchange
for oulichan-oil; the Tinneh come down from the mountains with
pelts and horns; and every Tsimsian man, woman, and least child
help gather the living silver from the water. The oulichan {Thale-
ivhthyn pacificvsX or candle-fish, is most nearly like the Atlantic eape-
lin, has a delicate flavour when freshly caught, and contains more oil
than any other known fish. It melts like a lump of butter in the

TlIK (iUKKN (JIIAKI-OITE ISLANDS.

frying-pan, and when dried, threaded with a npruce wick, and stuck
in a bottle, burns like a candle. A bunch of tlieiu touched to tlie fire
furnish a suflicient torch. Tliey exist in fireatest numbers, and scliools
of tliein coming in from tlie sea (ill the river and iidets from bank to
l)ank. The natives rake, shovel, dip, and seine them by canoe-loads,
and either dry them and string them throujih the eyes, or press the
oil and store it for winter use, as age euunot impair its qiuilities. A
little oulichan has been smoked and salted for ex|)ort, and ranks as a
rival to herring as a whetter to dull appetites.

Portland Canal separates Alaska frou) Ibitish Columbia for the
(M) miles that it cuts into the heart of the Coast Range. Captain Gray
was first to discover these waters, and after runidng into Portland
Canal and Observatory Inlet was sure he had found Del Fonte'it River.
The Spanish commandant at Nootka gave Captain Gray's charts to
Vancouver, and full reports of his voyage. The Englishman estab-
lished an astronomical observatory here under Puget and himself,
went with a yawl and two small boats on a reconnoissance that in-
cluded the shores of Porihind Caii(d, and the circumnavigation of
ReiUlag'ujedo Inland, lie covered 7<»0 geographical miles in twenty-
three days.

Portland Canal is walled by mountains 8,000 and 4,000 ft. high at
the entrance, while those at the end of the fiord tower to twice that
height. At the time of the Alaska purchase the surveyors named the
heights on one side for distingiiished Americans of that day, and Pea-
body, Rousseau, Ilalleck, Adams, Seward, Johnson (Reverdy), and Lin-
coln's name grace peaks and ranges that, guarding the still channel
below, combine and compose themselves into as noble landscapes as
can be seen in any of the broader fiords. Much careful surveying and
exploration has been done in its reaches since the Alaska and British
Columbia boundary line has become a subject of discussion.

The dueen Charlotte Islands.

The Queen Charlotte Island group lies off the island belt of
the immediate mainland coast, placed much as the Loffoden Islands are
with respect to Norway, and, like them, bordered with extensive cod
banks. The islands are a half-submerged mountain range, the direct
continuation of the Olympics and the Vancouver Island chain. The
compact archipelago measures 180 miles from N. to S., and 60 miles
across at the greatest width of Graham Island. The Kuro Siwo in its
recurved course falls full upon the Queen Charlotte shores and gives

;

TIIK tiUllION CIIAULOTTI': ISF.ANDS.

'to

llif i.<'laii(lH II iiiildoi', luoistcr, niid more oven cliriintc tlian I'ort Simp-

Hon or the Skociui Uiv«>r st'ttlemeiits enjoy. The west eoiistia a region

»)f almost perpetual rain, the peaks rising sheer 2,UU0 and 4,0«i(» ft.

from the ocean's edge, eatehing and iTiiden.«ing all the elouds and va-

pour.s l)orne with the warm ocean current. The eastern shores are Ichs

nigged, and, sheltered l>}' the mountain barrier, enjoy a siuinier aiul

drier climate, ('attle have been successfully raised for fifty years, and

potatoes grown for a hundred years.

All the islands are densely forested, and each a vast dead fall of

timber. Log jams arch and dam every stream, and the wilderness is

altnost untouched.

Although Juan Perez discovered these islaiuls in 1774, Dr. (Jeorge
M. Dawson has shown how very possible it is that this is Del Font(\s
Arrhijuioyo of Sun Ltizorio, wlu're the luen wore the skins of
beasts and travelled in great canoes hewn from a single log; where
there were river-ways vexed by ra|tlds no uu-ater than the tide rips and
currents that race through the inlets to-day ; and Mynhasset and the
name of Del Fonte's other village are as near toMassett and its rivals
as Spanish recorders could come in iri40. After Perez, La P6rouse
sighted the islands ; and then Captain (Jray, of Boston, visited them and
named them for his ship, the WaxhuKjtnu Mamh. Next, in 1787,
Captain Dixon, who was exploring for a London fur company, touched
these shores, obtained a large number of sea otter skins which were
then the conmion dress of the people, and named the group the Queen
Charloftc Mandu, in honour of his ship. Captain Dixon gives a full
description of the shores and tlieir people in his Voyage Around the
World, and sums up the natives as dirty, thievish, impudent, and mur-
derous cannibals. In 1791 Marchand came to the Northwest Coast,
surveyed and explored along the W. coast, and in his Voyages says
that the people were " good husbands, good fathers, . . . hospi-
table, mild, intelligent, and industrious people, endowed with great
good sense, to whom the useful arts are not unknown ; who join to
these even the agreeable ones, and who may be said to have already
made considerable advancement towards civilization." He recognized
Aztec words and terminations in their speech, and resemblances to Az-
tec work in their monuments and i)icture writings. For the next
twenty years the islands were much resoited to by fur-traders, but
when the sea otter became extinct they were passed i»y for a half cen-
tury. The traders had given the people potatoes, and from fur fisher-
men they turned to truck farmers, and took canoe-loads of potatoes
to each Fort Simpson fair. In 1851 the H. B. Co.'s agent at Fort Simp-
son showed the chief Edinso a piece of gold-bearing quartz, and asked
him to look for such stones on his island. An old s(|uaw showed
where a great vein cropped out on the face of a bluff on (iiaham Isl-
and, and in the next year the company established a post at Uttewas
village, on J/a.s.sr// ////('^, and their empl :»yes worked the ledge at Cold

"I
■» 1

THE QL'EKN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

Harbour until 'i dipped down into the sec, Some miner?, who char-
tered a schooner and sailed for tlie new gold region, wore wrecked on
the coast and held as slaves until ranscned.

Ufassett is reached ..y the C. P. N. Co.'s steamers on their irregular
cruises from Victoria, and by small trading steamers from Fort Simp-
sun. Its old lodges are being abandoned, its famous toiem-poles are
tottering to decay, and the spirit of progress is fast eliminating every
element of picturesijueness. Mmiidt Inlet is the Clyde of the coast and
canoe-making is always in progress.

The Haida canoe has a curved bottom, flarir^'j sides a high round-
ed stern, and a long, projecting prow. It is the lightest, most buoyant,
graceful and cranky craft on the coast. The old war canoes were 50
and 60 ft, long, elaborately painted and '^arved, and often carried 100
war 'iors. The Haida family or travelling, janoe, which one sees all up
and down the coast, is a slender, graceful, gondoia-liUe affair 20 or 30
ft. in length and 4 or 6 ft. wide. The hunting or otter canoes are
cockle-snells 6 or 10 ft. in length, in '' hich Haida experts go far to
sea. All these crafts are hewn from the single log of red cedar, and
are given their flare and graceful curvt^-^ by being filled with water and
hot stones until tiie steamed wood cm be braced out to the desired
width. Travelling canoes range in p.ice from ijfVr) to $150 at Port
Simpson, and hunting canoes $30 lo $50 ; but the canoe market has its
fluctuations like any other, and there are often soasont- of groat bar-
gains. The canoe requires constant care while out of the water It
must be protected from the sun s heat and always kept wet, and the
draped canoes along a village beach are the most pictures<[ue adjuncts
of native life.

There are large oil-works at Skidegate, where the livers of the
dog-fish, which swarm in incredible numbers in winter and spring,
yield an oil much valued by tanners. A soft, black slate is found on
the banks of a creek at the head of Skiihgate Inlet., and the Haidas
carve from it miniature totem-poles, boxes, plaques, and pipes, often
inlaying them with haliotis shell. The slate is soft and easily cut
with a knife when first quarried, but q'Mckly hardens, and will crack
if exposed to the sun or heat before it has seasoned.

There is a colony of Norwegian fishermen on the W. coast who
catch and cure halibut and the famous black cod {Anoplopowajiinhria\
a valuable food-fish which h s a differont, name in each section of the
Pacific coast. As Spanish mackerel it is little valued at San Fianoisco.
It attains perfection farther N., and along the strait uf Fuca ranks
first with epicures as " henhow,^^ the popular Makah name adopted by
the Fish Commission. The flaidas call it the /<k/{\ and catch it with
wooden hooks attached to trawl-lines. The hook is steamed to the

'I.

I !

fmm>

%':

h^t

1,:

A Hai(l(t ToiemPiilo

THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

slmpe of the letter U and set with an intauved barb. When not in use
the ends of the hook are I)()und fast with thcngs. Wlien baited t!ie
ends are held apart l)v a little stick, and, as the .v/v7 nibbles the bait,
it pushes out the chip and the hook closes upon him like a trap. The
chip ascending tallies one skil caught ; but as dog-tish and shark wait
upon the trawl, the fishermen often pulls up only the hundred heads.

TUE HA1DA8.

A church mission was established at Massett in 1876. Dr. Har-
rison came to it in 1878, and has studied the langtiage, riade a vocabu-
lary of 1(>,()()0 Haida words, translated hynms and songs, and rescued
much of their folk-lo^p and tradition. The Ilaidas are fast dwindling.
Mr. John Work recorded 6,593 inhabitants to the 31 villages visited
in 1841. In 1878 there were but three permanent winter villages occu-
pied — Massett, SkiJegate, and Gold Harbour — and the Haidas num-
bered less than 2,oOO. Only 7i»0 Haidas were enumerated in 1891.

The Haidas are the tine .lower of the native races of the coast.
They are taller, fairer, with oval faces and more regului- features than
any of the Columbian coast tribes, and are nearer to the Tlingit than
to any other people. They are aliens to the Tlingit s, and differ from all
their neighbours physically and mentally, in speech and cust(»ins, and
many similarities are more often the resul* ' llaida influences. The
Tlingits call them De-Kitiyo,* "people of . , -ea"; and these Pacific
Northmen rivalled the earlier \Mkings in their j .jmivs to distant shores.
The Vancouver and Puget Sound country were their P itain and their
Normandy, and coppery Erics and Harolds swept the coasts, attacking
native villages, Hudson Bay Company posts, and white .-^cttlenlents.
They once seized a schooner in Seattle harbour and murdered all on
board, and Haida was a name of terror.

Their origin is the puzzle of ethnologists. They have the tradition
of a deluge and a sole surviving raven, from whom sprang Qu-<-<da,
" the people," as they call themselves, and fro'^. which came the
Tsimsian word Ha'uht. One tradition makes Forr(stet'\'i Island, farther
out in the ocean, the cradle of their race. Those who incline ti.
Marchand's theory of an Aztec origin identify them as the descendanuH
of those whom Corles drove out of Mexico, and who vanished in l>oats
to the N. Their legend of the thunder-ljird is the same as the Aztecs
ami Zuiiis. They have images and relics similar to silver images and
objects found in Guatemalan riuns. They have modern Apache words
in their speech, many of the same dances, ma<;ks, legends, and picture-
writings as the Zufiis. Their resend)lance to the .apanese is quite as
marked, and as the Kuro Siwo touches so directly on the Queen

* Franz Boas, Report of 1889 to the British Association for the
Advancement of Science.

THE QUKKN CHARLOTTK ISLANDS.

I !

Charlotte shores, more junks may liave l)een stranded here than else-
where, during those centuries when the Japanese built sea-going junks
and travelled afiir. They have Japanese words in their speech, they sit
at all their work, they cut towards them in usitiir tools that are the sanie
as Japanese use to day. Like their a\sthetie cousins over the sea, they
are iniitutive and adaptive rather than originative, "ud they improve,
elaborate, and refine upon all they I)orr()w. In many of their customs,
in their bark weaving and their carved columns, they are akin to New
Zealand and South Sea people. VV^hether they copied the totem-pole
from those before the houses in the mysteiious city sunk in the sea,
from the New Zealand tiki, or from the Kwakiutls' simjjle heraldic
p(de, they have carried it to its linpst development. Forests of these
columns stand in tlieir old villages, their t)idy reccrds and nKuiuments
of any past, brief pictographie chapters in Ilaida history, genealogy, and
folk-lore — a rude and monstrous heraldry, an elaborate symbolism, a
system of colossal hieroglyphs. The pure heraldic colunms, the kcrhcns
or dooi'-posts, formed part of the old houses themselves, and the in-
mates entered l)y an oval iude hewn at tlie base of the column. The
chat, or mortuary column, was a smooth pole surmounted with the great
totem of the dead mau, 'nid as often with a box or a iiollowed space
containing the ashes. There are forty splendid poles at Jfassff/ or
?/7^;M'a.v village, as many more in the villages around the inlet ; fifty-
three poles at Skidegate ; the finest collection of all at Laskeck on Tanoo
Island, and many at CnHiHlicwa and Skxho/s.

In 1878 Dr. (Jeorge M. Dawson made a geological survvv of the
islands, examining the bituminous coal-veins on Graham Isla. d, and
the anthracite deposit near Skidegate. His " Monograph on the (^n,^.*
Charlotte Islands" was enibodieil in the Ann\ial Hei)ort of the Director
of the Canadian Geological Survey for 1879, and is a text-book for the
islands and their peoi)le. An interesting pai)er on "The Ilaidas," by
Dr. Dawson, was published in Harper's ^lonthly, August, 1882. In
1888 Hon. J. (t. Swan, of Port Townsend, spent several months canoe-
ing around the W. coast and visiting the villages to study Haida
tattoo, masks, carvings, and heraldic piiiiting- for the Smithsonian
Institution, which had published his earlier studies in that line as No.
267 of Smithsonian Contril)utions to Knowledge, January, 1874. In
1884 Mr. Newton II. Chittenden made an e\[)lorati()n of the i'dands for
the Govermnent of British Cohunbia, and his pamphlet, " Ilyda Land
and People," contains a most interesting rhnniv of his work.

than flse-
iiig junks
1, tliey sit

tlie same
' sea, they

improve,

customs,
n to New
atempole
1 the sea,

heralJic
of these
uiumonts
logy, and
bolism, a
e kcrheits
d the in-
iin. Tlie
the great
ed space
^^s■.syY/ or
ot; fifty-
)n Tanoo

»<

V of tlie
fi. d, and
e (^ui.^.i
Director
c for the
3as," by
82. In
s canoe-
y Ha id a
thsonian
e as Xo.
74. In
inds for
Ja Land

wmmm

nil

)||

ALASKA.

81)

ALASKA.

C^W (ieneral Map of Alaska.)

Alaska itself is nine times tliesizc of the New En^'land States, twiee
the size of Texas, and three times as large as California. It stretches for
more than 1,<»0(> n)iles from north to south, and the Aleutian Islands
trailing over into the Eastern hemisphere make the half-way point of
the United States a little W. of San Francisco. The island of Attu is
over 2,000 miles W. of Sitka, and the distance from Cape Fox to Point
Barrow is as great as from the north of Maine to the end of Florida.
Alaska contains 580,107 scpiare miles, with a coastline of 18,211 miles,
greater than the coast-line of all the rest of the Tnited States. The 1,100
islands of the Ahxnnder Arrlupclarfo have an estimated area of .'i 1.205
8(iuare miles, and the Ahntlan MamlH comprise 6,301 square miles.
The Cordilleran mountain system is merged in one great range at the
Alaskan line, and a host of lofty peaks surround Mt. St. Elias, ♦-he highest
mountain on the continent, and sentinel of the third highest range in
the world. Curving down to southwestward a line of volcanoes join:!
those of the Kurile Islands and of Japan, and completes the Pacific')*
" ring of fire.'' Low ranges and leagues of tundra stretch to the Arc-
tic. The southeastern Alaska, which tourists know, is but the handle
of a dipper, and residents '' to westward " — i. e., Unalaska and beyond —
hardly consider a visit to the Sitkan region as going to Alaska.

The United States bought this vast country from Russia in 1867
for less than half a cent an acre. Dr. Diill's figures* show that
Alasko was a paying investment, returning a clear net profit of 8 per
cent upon the first cost for the first five years. The tw "ny Seal Isl-
ands paid 4 per cent on the original )Jn7,20o,<»O(>, and in their first
lease returned a sum equal to the purchase money to the Treasury.
The gold-mines have since added an equal sum to the wealth of the
world, and the salmon industry yielded !i57,5oo,(t0o in six years, 1884
to 1890. It is the most sparsely inhabited part of the United States,
averaging one inhabitant to each 19 stjuare miles. Its lands have
never been made subject to entry, save mineral claims ; it has no
representation at Washington ; Congress refuses to provide a suitable
or efficient form of government ; there is no military post within Its

* See Harper's Magazine, January, 1872.

>° Wert Croio iU° Greenwich liQo

40 CLIMATE OF ALASKA.

borders, and no telegraphic communication ; but by the spirit of the

people it gains slowly, and the last frontier is moving northward.

The population of Alaska is classified as follows in the eleventh

census (1890):

WhItcH 4,:}03

Mixed (KiiHHiun and nut ive) 1,819

IndiaiiH S3,5J71

Mongolians a,287

All others 1 12

Total 81,795

The Indians are again divided as follows :

fi'ikiino ia,784

Thilnket 4,739

Athabuskan 8,441

Aleut 5MW

TflimpHean 951

Ilyda 391

Total S3,274

CLIMATE OF SOl'THEASTERN ALASKA.

" Berlin, September 5. — We have seen of Germany enouRh to show that its
climate is neither so genial, nor its soil so fertile, nor its resoiircf s of forests and
mines so rich as those of sonthem Alaska."— William 1L Skward, Travels
Around the World, Part VL, chap, v., page 708.

In climate and all physical features southeastern Alaska is a repeti-
tion of southern Norway, enjoying, however, a far richer forestation.
In latitude, configuration, temperature, rainfall, and ocean currents it is
identical. During the thirty-six years that the Russians kept meteor-
ological records at Sitka the mercury went below 0° F. but four times.
While St. John's, Newfoundland, is beleaguered by icebergs in summer
and its harbour is frozen solid in winter, Sitka, 10° N. of it, has always
an open roadstead, and only the ends of the longer fiords are ever cloFed
by ice. Sitka Castle, lying 17', or 3 miles, N. of Balmoral Castle in
Scotland, has a higher average winter temperature than the Highland
home. Sitka's mean temperature for the year is 43'3 against Ber-
gen's 44*6. The snow rarely lies on the ground for any time at sea-
level, mist and rains soon reducing it to slush, as in Kentucky or tiie
District of Columbia, the isothermal equals of this region. The snow-
line on the mountains is at 2,500 and 3,000 ft. Skating is a rare
pleasure for Sitkans, and the Russian bishop told Mr. Seward how de-
lighted he was to come and live in " such a nice, mild climate."

The winter of 1879-80 was the most severe known in the century ;
3 ft. of snow remained on the level for three months, and the mercury
fell to —70°, as in Dakota or Montana.

CLIMATE OF ALASKA.

The mean temperature of the air and of the surface sea-water and
the precipitation for each month of tlie year at Sitl(a are tlius given by
the Uuitcd States ("oast and Geodetic Survey in its Ahiska " Coast
Pilots "of 18H3 and 1891:

T«in|i«ratur« nf
thv sir.

T«iii|H'r*ture or

Pre('i|iitalion,

January...
Febniary..

March

April

M^y

June

July

AUgUBt

Heptenibor
October . . .
November.
December.

Year . .

81-4
3'JM»

;;6-7

40-8
47

).) !)

5r.-)

44-9
881
83 3

800
390
311 -5
420
40 5
48
4<lO
.'WO
61-5
48-9
44 4
41-7

43-3

450

7-85
fi-45
BS.'9

r.i7

4 13

;JH2

4 19

fiJHJ
90«
11-83
8-U5
8-39

81-69

The old residents insist that the climate is changing ; that the sum-
mers are warmer and drier than formerly ; and that, allowing for the
different hours at which Baron Wrangell and his successors took the
temperature, the records show three degrees increase of average tem-
perature since 1835. The rapid retreat of all the tide-water glaciers
during even 20 years is offered as another proof, and there was only
one of the old-style, perpetually rainy summers in the decade 1880-90.

The greater Gulf Stream of the Paci6c and the loftier mountain
ranges give southeastern Alaska a greater rainfall than southern Nor-
way. Bergen's annual 72-25 inches and the Nordfiord's extreme 78
inches are exceeded by Sitka's annual HI inches, and Fort Tongass's
118*30 inches — all exceeded, however, by Cape Flattery's 140-9 inches in
1886-'86. There have been we* seasons in Alaska of 285 and 340
rainy days. This heavy precipitation gives the mountains their shin-
ing crowns, feeds the glaciers, forces the luxuriant vegetation, brings
every leaf and twig to its fullest perfection, and keeps the foliage so
fresh and dewy that at times the green sparkles and almost dazzles one
with its intensity. With all the down-pour or drizzle of days, there is
nothing liki that soul-piercing, marrow-penetrating dampness, that
awful chill of the ocean that creeps into Atlantic cities far to south-
ward. G'las do not rust ; cigars and tobacco do not mould or mildew.
Clothes dry under a shed on the rainiest days, even under awnings on
shipboard ; and the tourist finds that his gloves and shoes show no re-
luctance in being pulled on on wet mornings.

There is a blessed immunity from thunder-.'^tornis, and the rare dis-
plays of thunder and lightning in the midst of winter hail and snow-
storms frighten the Indians greatly. There are fine auroral displays in
the long winter nights ; but no one remembers seeing any such electric
exhibitions as enlivened the early years of the century, when Langs-
4

(JLIMATK (»K ALASKA.

dorff mentions the uir being ho ehurged witli electricity that bhiish
green Kalis of lire — St. Elmo lights — danced on the bayonet tips (»f
the muskets and the metal heads of the flagstnfTs on the palisade. In
this century one great eartlujuakc at Sitka split off the front of Versto-
voi, another razed tlie citadel, and slight tren)l)lings have been felt
at times, notably during great storms. Two great cyclonic storms
have occurred since the transfer of the country. One occurred ju.st
after that ceremony when Sitka harbour was crowded with ships. All
dragged anchors, two were wrecked, and the man-of-war bearing the
U. S. Commissioners home nearly foundered off Cape Ommaney.

The next great hurricane came October 26, 1880, 13 years to the
day after the transfer cyclone It was accompanied by heavy earth-
quake shocks. Captain lieardslee reported 14 revolving gales which
passed up the coast during his command at Sitka, estray typhoons that
belonged on tlie other side of the ocean.

With Norway, Scotland, and Ireland to prove the contrary, it is
often asserted that grain and vegetables cannot be grown in Alaska.
Baranof cleared 15 kitchen gardens in 1805 and ripened barley and
potatoes, and common vegetables, as has been done every year since.
Fine grasses spring naturally on auy clearing; wild timothy and
coarser grasses grow 3 and 4 ft. high, and clover thrives unheeded.
Vancouver found the natives cultivating potatoes and a kind of tobacco,
and each family had its little plantations in sheltered nooks where they
sowed their tubers like grain, and gathered them the next winter or
spring. There were gardens on either side of the stockades at Sitka
which provided fresh vegetables, and hot-house frames secured the
Russians many delicaoies.

In United States days residents have successfully raised radishes, let-
tuce, carrots, onions, cauliflower, cabbage, peas, turnips, beets, parsnips,
and celery ; and single potatoes have weighed 1 pound 5 ounces. Vege-
tables are raised every year at Yukon missions and trading-posts. Hay
has been cured in southeastern Alaska every summer since 1805, and
by adopting Norwegian methods larger crops could be better cured.

In Norway wheat is cultivated as far N. as 64° ; rye up to the line of
69° ; barley and oats as far N. as 70° ; apples, plums, and cherries to
64° and 66° ; and wild raspberries, strawberries, currants, and goose-
berries up to the North Cape, 71° 10'. The length of the summer
days compensates for the lower temperature, and there is usually a
fortnight or more of really hot weather in the Sitkan region each sum-
mer — a fortnight of hot days 18 hours long, in 1891, with the mer-
cury passing 80° every noon, and reaching 93° on board the U. S. S.
Phita. Norwegians long ago discovered that seeds and plants from
southern Europe had to be acclimated for two or three years before
yielding a good crop. Even maple-trees undergo a change when trans-
plant d from southern to northern Norway, the nightless days forcing
the leaves to an enormous size, while the tree itself is low and stunted,
and all common wild flowers attain unusual size and colour in the
northlands.

ALASKA — NATIV1-: HACKS.

THE NATIVE RACE OF 80UTT'EA8TEHN ALASKA. THE TLIN(iITH.

The 11 tribes of Tlingits inhiibiting the cuust iiiul i^'lund?* of south-
eastern Alaska were roughly estlmatt'd by tlie KusHinns ns iiuinbi'riiig
from 25,000 to 3<»,(KM». (Jenerul Ilullock's i-^'tiimite of IHr.i) guvc
12,000 or 15,000. The ceiiHUs of IHHo enumeiiUed f,,i;;7 Tlinyits ;
that of 1890 but 4,457. Epidemics of smull-pox, black measles, and
grippe, with the vices of civilization, have thus depleted their ranks.

The word Tt'myit U their name foreman," "people." The Rus-
sians called them KolonchiaM, from the Aleut name Kalushhu (little
trough), for the lal)iette worn in the lower lip. There are as many
separate traditions of a supernatural origin, a ddugc, and a sole surviv-
ing couple as there are tribes of Tlingits. There is no legend to point
distinctly to trans-i'acitie origin, but many tell of a ndgiation from the
S. E., the Nass River country.

Their propitiatioi of evil spirits, their shamanism, their belief in
the transmigration oi souls, their worshipful regard for the sjiintH and
ashes of their ancestors, are essentially Asiatic. Some of their myths,
their carvings and constructions, and many words, are Aino ; their
methods, tools, and postures at work are Japanese. Their totcm-|K)les
are kin to the New Zealand tiki and the Easter Island injages ; and
there are many resemblances to Maori and South Sea people. Their
sun-worship, their Nature-worship, with ofl'erinjis to uu)untains, winds,
and glaciers, are nearly Aztec, and the same Thunder IJii'd reigns from
the Isthmus of Panama to the end of Tlingit land. The\ have the same
dances and masks as the Zuiiis, the same totems as the Ilurons, Dela-
wares, and Omahas. They are nearest to the Haidas, but hiive much
in common with Tsimsians and Kwakiutls, and are greatly superior to
the Salish. They are totally different stock from the inti rioi or Tinneh
tribes, of whom all Tlingits speak contemptuously as Sfik Indians.

Tolcmism is the base of their social organiv;ation, tlie totem or tribal
mark distinguishing the dwelling and every belonging of these people.
Only animal totems occur, and they live under the protection of and
are inspired by these guardian animals, who are cften believed to have
been the ancestors of the race. The crow or raven, representing
woman, the creative principle, and the wolf, the aggressive or fighting
creature, are the great totems of the coast, and each are .subdivided
into clans. Men do not marry women of their own totem. The to-
temie is stronger than family or tri))al bonds. Men often elect indi-
vidual totems, usually the animal seen or dreamed of during their lonely
fasts in the woods preceding their majority and their ir»itiation into the
rites and great ceremonies of the clan. These elective totems, added
to the clan and family totems, account for the storied images on the
totem-poles. The totem-pole has no religious significance, and is not
an object of idolatrous worship. Its heraldic designs and quarterings
are displayed in the same way and for the same reason that a Euro-
pean parades his crest and scutcheon. The Tlingits understand the

V I

;l i

r : t

ALASKA — N ATI V K HACHOS.

spread eagle to be the " Hoston m!m\s " totem, and the lion and the
uuicorn tlie two totems of the "King (Jtorge men.'" Their hears,
whales, frogs, and wolves are no more diHieult to recognize 'n their
rigidly eonventionalized carvings than the grifHns, dragons, ..ndy/r?/r-c/c-
Ih of European heraldry.

Frazei'ri small volmne, Totemism, Edinbui xh, 18V7, is a text-book,
and those interested in pu*" uing the subject in its wide range will find
it diseussed in the following woik': E. Clodd, Mytiis and Dreams;
Encyclop.edia IJiitanidca (Frazc , Toteniism and Sacrifice; Sir John
Lul)l)ock, Origin of (vivilizati<M ; Andrew Lang, Custom isnd Myth;
A. P. Niblark, The Coast ludiaiis ol Southern Alaska and \orthern
British Columbia; Sayce's Introducti<m to tiie Study of Early Lan-
guages ; W. l^)be^tson Smith, Kiuslii)) and ^larriage in Early Arabia ;
E. H. Tyl)r. Anthropology, Early Ilisto'.y oi Mankind.

Tlingi- speech has l)een studied and voiabularie;- madt, by Dixon,
Marchand, Lisiansky, Wrangell, V eniaminoff, Fui'uhelm, Emmons, and
Hoas, with many notes of their idiouis and constructions, translations
and notations of their songs. The common speech is much corrupted
by Russian, English, and Chinook. Lieutenant f]mnions has found
evidences ol an older language, a classic to all Tlingits. M'-. Charles
Walcolt noted " the -Japanese idioms, constructions, honorihc, .separa-
tive, and agglutinative particles." Like the Ja[)anese, the Tlingits can-
tiot pronounce / ,' like the Chinese and the ancient Jlexicans, they can-
not pronoiiuce *'. Dr. lioas finds the labials all absent from Tlingit,
which h is no grammatical sex and no forms for plural. Captain Cook
first noticed the uiany terminations like the Aztec /r/, more marked in
liaida ; and Dr. Dawson employs in ihi'da words the (Jrtek x to ox-
press a stronger ])aiatal than English affoi'ds. Tlingit is the harshest of
all coast < /iigucs. Horatio Hale has not,ed that all tliese har her lan-
guages cease at the Colinnbi.' where the ''oast climate changes so mark-
edly. flie Northwest Coast is the rainiest pait of the world with a
clininte of perpttual April or October, and thetc peoi)le spend their
lives in canoes. " Their pronunt iation is that of a people whose vocal
oigans have fo'.' generations been affected ])y tontinuous coiighs and
catarrhs, thickening the mr.cous membrane and obstrncting tiie aii-
iiassages.''* Ir has l)een cemiiared to die Del Kuegion -;p(';\h of which
Dai'win has said : '' The Innguage of «hese people, accoi'ding to our no-
tions, 'Hai'ce'; deserves to be cnlled prticulaif. Captain Cook luis
coir.pai'cd it to a ni;in cUvniug his throat, Init < -rtaiiily no European
ever d aieil his throat with so many hoarse, guttural, and clicking
s(>unds." Any one attenijtting to recor(i Tlingit words by ])honetie
signs is baulked by sounds impossible of imitatiitn, as])irates and gut-
turals past conveyance by our signs. Charles Wairen Stoddard has
called Tlingit "a confusion o^" gutturals with a plenitude of salivr, —
a moist language with a gurgle that appronches a gargle, . . . and the
unaccustomed ear scarcely recovers from the shock of it."

Itc

TUunit Woman.

■■r~

ALASKA — NxVTIVE RACER.

In common witli all Northwest Coast people, the Tlingits have in-
herited a magnificent development of the sliouldera, chest, and arms
from generations of canoe-paddling ancestors, but the rest of the body
is stunted and deformed, and all arc bovv-lcgircd and pigc<m-toed,
shuffling, shambling, and moving as awkwardly as aquatic birds on
land. Their mental superiority to the Tiniieh of the interior and the
plains tribes of the United States may be the result of their exclusive
fish diet. It was never Tlingit fashion to flatten or elongate the skull,
their mutilations comprising tattooing, and the wearing of labrettes,
nose and ear ornaments. The Labrt'ttc was formerly the woman's badge
of age, rank, and condition, but is only seen on older women now.
Young girls are still, as formerly, " brought out " and introduced social-
ly as any (Ubutante among (yQucasians. The <lt'hufitnt<\'i lower lip was
formerly pierced and an inch-long copper or silver pin worn, until re-
placed by a small bone or wooden stud after marriage, which gradually
increased until dowagers wore a huge I)Iock or ])lug — " a wooden bowl
without handles," La Perouse says — that measurcil two or three inches
across. Captain Cook's mcii called him to see the Aleut who, having
removed the labrette, was supjjoscd to have two motiths. Captain
O'Dowd told Langsdorff of a chief's wife in Chiitham Strait who could
conceal her whole face by a ^""xterous turn of the lip holding an enor-
mous labrette.

TLINGIT CUSTOMS.

In earlier days painting and tattooing were universal. They paint
now only for great dances and potlatche.-i, but continue to l)lack their
faces as a summer protection from tan and insects. This coating of
soot and seal oil has been mistakenly vailed a badge of mourning.
Governor Swincford forbade facc-blackcning, and punished offenders,
while Rangeley and Adirondack fishermen were permitted to use tar oil
and fly ointment ; and climbers of Mt. Rainier blacked their faces
upon reaching the snow- line.

There are often fine exceptions to the regulation flat, Iva^y-jawed,
and high-cheeked faces; and women often sl]ow strong, eagle-visages
of more regular mould. These family arbiters and tyi-ants are hardest
of bargainers, antl contemptuous of mai.'s interference. Marriages
are arranged by the elders for the best advantago of the clan and
fauiily. and while woman is supf ine, all wealth und ])ower descending
through her, polygamy is praeti-^ed. Upon a man's death his widows
pass to the next heir in his njothcr's family. Younger l>rothers and
nephews, inheriting such widows, may piu'chasc frcMloin by blankets.

The Tlingits have their political societies, with honours as often l)e-
stowed upon humble worth. All of the totem contribute to the potlatches
of their chief, working and saving for years to ma''*^ ^\\\ extravatrant dis-
play and division of wealth. The potlatch is usually given at the fidl
of the moon, and the host's clan and totem do not accept any gifts.
The seating and serving of the guests are as precisely ordered as at a
court function, and bloodshed follows any oversights. Hospitalities are
returned iu kind, unu the social ledgers of the totems regularly balanced.

ALASKA — NATIVE RACES.

In early times they were incessant dancers ; songs, chants, and
draiiintic representations accompanied all welcomes, partings, feasts,
fights, funerals, and visits. Trading was not a mere mercenary trans-
aciion when a line of canoes advanced, circled, and manoeuvred
around a ship ; painted men in ceremonial dress, powdered with the
eagle-down of peace, chanted in chorus, and the chiefs delivered reci-
tatives and obligatos. Boston traders gave them rum, and a deserter
of a whaler's crew and a discharged United States soldier have credit
for teaching them to distil hoochlnoo, or native drink. They have
many games of chance, the favourite being a crude /an tan played with
52 cylindrical sticks with different marks. The sticks are either
drawn and matched, or players guess the position, number, or odd and
even of the sticks the dealer hides under a mass of cedar shreds.
Pools and individual stakes are made and sticks cashed by the winners
by a regular tariff. The dealer chants, and the players join in ; and
when all a Tlingit's wives, canoes, slaves, blankets, and tows are hang-
ing in the balance, the whole lodge swells the frantic chorus. Playing-
cards are much used, and in summer one may find poker parties play-
ing all day on the beach and utilizing the midnight light. Their first
tokens of wealth were the • w-.s — curved copper shields ornamented
with totcmic cuttings, S!\id to have come originally from the Chilkats,
and said to be imitations of the copper plates nailed to conspicuous
trees by the first Russian discoverers. A tow was worth $800 to $1,000
by the blanket scale — a " two and a half point '' H. B. Co. blanket
counting for $1.50 — and often sold for ten slaves. Hiaqua shells were
retired from circulation when a Yankee had imitations made of porce-
lain; and the Russians for a long time gave a leather money, '^oin
only came to them after the transfer. Silver is highly valued, and
stored in bulk or beaten into ornaments.

The whites have had t(» yield to Tlingit ideas of justice and to-
tcmic laws : an eye for an eve, a tootli for a tooth, or a material equiv-
alent, are strictly demanded. A blanket indemnity will solace any
wound to pride, honour, or aifection, and their logic follows every loss
and injury tr. first causes. The Tlingit who shot at a decoy duck
made the decoy owner pay for the cartridges ; the otter hunter,
rescued from a broken an(i sinking canoe, demanded the value of the
canoe when set ashore ; the relatives even of a burglar made the
owner of the stolen rifle pay for the burglar killed by its accidental
discharge. White doctors pay for any dead patients whom they have
treated ; and when Haronovich accidentally shot his own child, he him-
self had to pay the Whale totem, or his wife's clan, so many hundred
blankets, or be killed himself to balance the account.

In illness the Tlingit sent for his shaman or medicine-man, who,
continuing his fasts alone in the forest throughout life, continued to
receive inspiration from his guardian and familiar animal spirits. In
frantic parades and dances about a village, a shaman bit live dogs and
ate the heads and tongues of frogs, which contiined a potent medicine.
He performed his miraculous cures under the spell of his special
totcmic spirit, and an emetic of dried frogs and sea-water gave him a

111

ALASKA — NATIVE RACES.

vision to perceive the soul leaving a man's body, ability to "atcli
and replace it, and cast out the evil spirits which had possessed the
patient. When the chant, dance, and hocus-pocus failed to cure, the
shaman denounced some one for charming or bewitching his patient,
and demanded his torture or death. Usually the infirm or the aged
poor, slaves or personal enemies, were denounced and subjected to
fiendish tortures. Captain E. C. Merriman, U. S. N., broke tlie power
of shamanism in the archipelago by repeated rescues of those charged
with witchcraft, by fine and punishment of tribe and shamans, and
finally by taking the shamans on board his ship, shaving off and
burning their long sacred hair and sending them out bald-headed, to
be met with roars of Tlingit laughter. There have been few cases of
witchcraft since.

While al! other Tlingits were cremated, so as to make sure of a
warm and comfortable future, they believed that the shaman's body
would not burn, and such were buried in sitting posture in little pavil-
ions in remote and picturesque spots surrounded by the blankets,
tows, masks, wands, rattles, and paraphernalia of his trade. Shamans'
graves have yielded richest treasures for ethnological nmseums. Other
Tlingits were cremated with elaborate ceremonies, the wailing, pyre-
building, etc., always conducted by pooplo of another totem, and the
ashes and bones stowed away in a carved giave-box or canoe, or
niched in mortuary columns. Personal possessions and food for use
in the spirit-land vere buried with the dead, and often a slave was
despatched so as to attend his master beyond. The missionaries have
effectually broke.i up the practice of cremation, on the gr..iinds of
heathenism, and inhumation is now practised. The Tlingits believe
that after death the spirits take possession of the bodies of animals,
revisit their hemes, and teach the mysteries of life to fasting youths
in the forest. Earthr[uakes arc caused by ghosts, and the aurora
borealis is the ghost-dance of dead warriors who live in the plains
of the sky, from which the earth was cut loose and fell to the sea.

They have their lucky and unlucky numbers, their signs and marks
for the propitiation of evil. They saw outlines in the constellations, and
had their names and legends for these otter-skins and bailers in the sky.

Their foik-lore, myths, and traditions reveal a poetry and richness of
imagination not to be expected fiom these stolid people.

The Cro>i\ in whom lives Yehl, the gref t spirit and creator, first
dwelt on Nass River, where, having created himself and the world, he
turned two blades of grass into the paren*^ race. The Tlingits increased
and became a great people, and spread far and wide. Suddenly dark-
ness came, and all life sto{)ped. A Tlingit stole the sun and hid
it in a box on Japonski Island, but the Crow found it, and, flying
off with it, set it so high in the sk^ that none could steal it again.
Again the Tlingits increased and s,)read abroad, but after many gen-
erations there came a great flood, and all perished save two Tlingits
who were long tossed about on a raft, until the crow appeared and car-
ried this pair to Mt. Edgecumbe, where they lived until the waters fell.
It is related in some versions that another raft of peo{)le was borne

THE BOUNDARY LINK.

awayto thesouthwostwiu'd by the flood and tlmt tlioy are the parents of
the other races of the earth. Then again, it is «aid that the two surviv-
ors of the flood were sup, rnati ral creatures, t;iC of whom descended
through the crater of Mt. Edgecunibc and there stays to hold the earth
up out of the water, wliile the otlier lives as the great Thunder Bird
Hahtla, wlio dwells in the crater, the flapi)ing of whose wings is the thun-
der and whose glances are lightning. Halitla is personated by the osprey,
who rides the storms and seizes the salmon from the waters, and his
inverted face glares from ceremonial blankets and carved boxes. The
visit to heaven and the stealing or killing of the sun is common to all
the Northwestern people, and Dr, Fraz IJoas givos several variations of
it curt-ent among the Kwakiutl and other British Columbian tribes.

THE INTEKNATIONAL BOUNDARY LINE.

''Fifty-four Forty:'

Bodegay Quadra named the great strait Perez Inlet in IT'TR, but
Vancouver preferred that it should be Captain Dixon'f^ Entrance, as
named for and by that commander of the Queen Charlotte in 1787. It
has also been known as Grauitza Sound and Kyyane Strait. It very
evenly divides the Northwest Coast, and with its prolongations runs a
natural water boundary far inland.

At this entrance, 600 miles N. of Boundary Bay and the forty-ninth
parallel, one re-enters the United States, the once northern boundary of
the Oregon Territory becoming the southern boundary of Alaska. Suc-
ceeding the Nootka Convention of 1790, the Northwest Coast became
virgin soil open to free settlement and trade by any people, and three
nations claimed it. The Russians asserted ownership down to the
Columbia, and then withdrew to 51°, or to the north end of Vancouver
Island, The British claimed the coast from the Columbia River to
55^, and the United States claimed all W. of the Rockv Mts. between
42" and 54° 40'. In 1818 the United States and Great'Britain agreed
to a joint occupancy of the region, and in 1819 the U-Mted States bought
Florida from Spain, and with it acquired all of Spanish rights and
claims on the coast N. of 42". By the number of its trading posts and
vessels regularly visiting the coast, the United States was virtually in
possession of the region, but British fur-traders were pushing westward
from the interior.

The Emperor of Russia, by his ukase of 1821, forbidding all foreign
vessels from approaching within 1(>(> Italian miles of his possessions in
the North Pacific, purposely brought about the conventions of 1824-'26
to adjust the rival claims to North American territory and to regulate
trade. By the treaty of 1824 with the Unit.d States, and that of 1826
with Great Britain, Russia agreed to 54° 40' as the southern limit of
her possessions, and allowed the vessels of the other two nations to
freely trade for a period of ten years. The useless and \:ninhabited
interior was parcelled out in even thirds — Russia taking the north-

THE BOUNDARY LINE.

)

western or Yukon re<^ion, Enpland tlie Mackenzie region and all be-
tween Hudson Bay and the Rocky Mts., while the Oregon territory,
all \V. of the Rockies and N. of 42", was claimed for the United States.
In 1828 the joint occupation of the Northwest Coast by the United
States and (Jreat Britain was iiulelinitely extended. In 1837-'38 socie-
ties for emigrating to Oregon were formed in the United States, and in
1843 that great waggon train with a thousand people crossed from the
Missouri River to the Columbia, and the country demanded the inune-
diate settlement of the northwestern boundary. President T.\ler, in his
annual message to Congress in 1843, declared that "United States
rights appertain to all between 42" and ')V 40' ". Slave interests were
then negotiating for Texas, and, to gain it without interference, Calhoun
was discussing a settlement with the British minister with the forty-
ninth parallel as the Oregon boundary, which the latter rejected, as his
predecessor had in ]8(»7 when Jefferson had proposed the same line.
The Whigs and Henry Clay counselled moderation and compromise,
but the Democrats raised the war-cry of " Fifty-four Forty, or Fight ! "
and elected Polk as the cham|)ion of that cause. In his inaugural mes-
sage President Polk said, " ()ur title to the country of Oregon is clear
and uncpiestionable," and in his first message he declared for "all of
Oregon or none." Yet through party spite and bickerings, the hatred
of Lewis Cass, who led the " Fifty-four J'orty " party in Congress,
President Polk and the Southern Democrats retreated from their posi-
tion, and on June L'), 184(5, Secretary Buchanan concluded the famous
Oregon Treaty with Minister Pakeuham on the same terms — the line of
the forty-ninth parallel — as ottered by Calhoun two years before and
by Jefferson forty years before.

Thomas H. Benton gives his own views and defence of this retreat
from the first position of his party in regard to the Oregon Question in
his Thirty Years in the United States Senate. The clearest sumndng
up of the situation is given by Mr. Blaine in his Twenty Years in Con-
gress, vol. i., chap. iii. ; and later (chap, xiii.) he says : " Meanwhile, . . .
we lost that vast tract on the north known as British Columbia, the
possession of which after the ac([uisition of Alaska would have given
to the United States the continuous frontage on the Pacific Ocean, from
the southern line of California to Bering Strait."

By the treaties of 1824-'25 the limits of Russian possessions are
thus defined, and the same articles were repeated in the Treaty of Wash-
ington of 18(57 :

"Commencing from the southernmost point of the island calh'd
Prince of W^ales Island, which point lies in the parallel of 54 degrees
40 minutes north latitude, and between the 131st and the 133d degree
of west longtitude (meridian of (Ireenwich), the said line shall ascend
to the north along the channel called Portland Channel, as far as
the point of the continent where it strikes the oGth degree of north
latitude ; from this last-mentioned point the line of demarcation shall
follow the summit of the mountains situated parallel to the coast as far
as the point of intersection of the 141st degree of west longitude (of
the same meridian) ; and finally, from the said point of intersection,

THE BOUNDARY LINE.

I i

the Haiti merulinn line of the 141st do^rree, in its prolonfjafion as far us
the Frozen Ocean,

"IV. With reference to the line of demarcation lai<l down in the
preceding article it ia understood —

"1. That the island called Prince of Wales Island shah belong
wholly to Russia" (now, by this cession, to the United States).

" 2. That whenever the summit of the mountains which extend in
a direction parallel to the coast from the 56th degree of north latitude
to the point of intersection of the 141st degree of west longitude shall
prove to be at the distance of more than ten marine leagues from the
ocean, the limit between the British possessions iind the line of coast
which is to belong to Russia as above mentioned (that is to say, the
limit to the possessions ceded by this convention) shall be formed by a
line parallel to the winding of the coast, and which shall never exceed
the distance of ten marine leagues therefrom."

The boundary line from y\t. St. Elias to Portland Channel has not
been surveyed nor determined. For the last twenty-eight years of Rus-
sian ownership the " Thirty-mile Strip," as it .vas called, was leased to
the Hudson Bay Company, who paid an annual rental for the territory
Canada now claims as partly her own.

The recent growth of Alaska and British Columbia has made the
international boundary a question of moment and interest, and " Fifty-
four Forty " may again become a campaign slogan.

During the Fisheries Conference at Washington in 188T-'88 an in-
formal discussirm of the Alaska and British Columbia boundary was
conducted by Dr. W. H. Dall, of the Smithsonian Institution, and Dr. G.
M. Dawson of the Dominion (ieological Siirvey, both scientists of first
repute, and both personally acquainted with the regions under discussion.
Dr. Dawson presented a new map showing the boundary line claimed by
his Government, as drawn by Major-CJeneral R. D. Cameron, which
narrows the thirty-mile strip to five miles in width in many places, and
absorbs it entirely as part of British Colum 'd in others. This Cameron
line leaps bays and inlets ; gathers in all of Glacier Bay, Lynn Canal,
and Taku Inlet ; takes all of the Stikine River, and, instead of following
" along the channel known as Portl.ind Channel," it strikes to tide-
water at the head of Burroughs's Bay and follows by Behm Canal and
Clarence Strait to Dixon Entiance. By this arrangement, Revillagigedo,
Wales, and Pearce Islands and the great peninsula between Behm Canal
and Portland Canal, are annexed to British Columbia ; also the islands
of the Gravina group, on one of which Mr. Duncan's colony of
Metlakahtlans have found refuge — the island which the United States
used for a military post a d then for a custom-house for twenty years,
and even Mary Island, where the U. S. custom-house now stands.
Claiming all of the Alaska coast up to 56° by this arrangement, the late
Sir John Robson, Premier of British Columbia, suggested that the
United States yield up the small remaining strip of mainland between
56° and St. Elias, for certain concessions in sealing matters. All Cana-
dian maps are now drawn according to the Cameron line ; and the
Canadians, who are keenly alive to the advantages of possessing this

THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS.

territory, have repeatedly called the attention of the United States to a
matter which has seemed to be regarded with inditVerence on our side of
the line.* The U. S. coast and (Jeodetic Survey has made careful sur-
reys of the Portland Canal, Ik'hm ('an:d, and St. Klias re,nionc<, and

marked the crossing of the line of the 141st meridian on the Yukon
River; and late in 1892 Prof. T. C Mendenhall was appointed commis-
sioner on the part of the United States, and Mr. W. F. King on the
part of Canada, to consider and determine the true line.

a-
le

lis

The Southern Islands.

Vancouver divided the island belt above Dixon Entrance into the
Prince of Wales and the George the Third Archipelago. The
two were as often known as the Sitkai/ Archipelago, and in 1867

* See Century Msigazine, July, 1891: "The Disputed Boundary
between Alaska and British Columbia." Also Extra Senate Document,
No. 146, Fiftieth Congress, 2d Session, Report on the Boundary Line
between Alaska and British Columbia.

THK SOUTIIKUN ISLANDS.

iil

Professor Davidson supgostt'd the present nnnie of tite Alrxniitlrr
Archipelago, in comitliinent to the l^iissiun einpt ror.

The military jjost of Fort TuiigiiHN wiis Imilt on nn i-let betwi'en
Wiilrs Islniu/ nn<l the niainhmd, facinj: the Thkhomhi llurhiHir of Rus-
sian traders, as often ealled Clement or Crescent City. Tiie bnihiinps
were on the bhilf on the X. side of tlie ishind, 10 miles distant front
Fort Sinipstm. Tlie ganison was soon withdiawn, and a ciistonis officer
remained until 18H1>, The rainfall of 1 lS-;5() in. a yenr, and the sph'n-
did cedar-trees 8 ft. in diameter, made it famous.

The Tonj^ass, Tumgass, Tanigas, or Tunghash tribe of Tlinj^its
were only the remmmt of a jjreat p('(ti)le numbciiii}^ 500 alto^'ether in
1H<>9, and dindnished to 225 in 1890. A swampy trail leads a half
mile across the island froni the fort to their chief villaj^e, where 24
massive totem-poles fj;uar(l the semicircle of ruined lod{:;es.

A tablet on one house reads :

"to THK MEMORY OF KIIHKTTS,

HEAD CHIEF OF THE TONOASS,

WHO DIKD IN 1880, AUKD 100 YKAUS."

Two fine totem-])oles also record the honours of this Xeakoot, who
assumed the name of John Jacob Astor's Captain Ebbetts, asa compli-
ment to that trader.

There are beautiful views aiound the island, and a canoe can thread
myriad forest-walled lanes, in one of which there is a ledge of slate
glittering with superb garnet crystals.

Vancouver named the small sharp point of the maiidand for the
Right Hon. Charles James Fox, and the bay beyond for Quadra, the
Spanish commandant at Xootka. Salmon canneries were established
at f)oth places during the salmon boom of lSS;5-'84, but the Cape Fox
cannery was moved to Klrh)k<ni, in Tongass Xarrows, and the Boca de
Quadra was deserted after a few seasons.

Mary Island Customs District.

The first flag and liglit seen on the Alaska coast are at the U. S.
custom house on Mary Island, a green dot named for the daughter
of Admiral Winslow, who cruised past it with her father in the U. S. S.
Saranac in 1872. This Government station was built in 1891, and one
may see the white buildings from afar, or hear the siren wailing when
mists or darkness brood upon these reef and rock strewn waters. Ships
may enter and clear at Mary Island, and the deputy and a row-boat are
expected to exert a sufficient moral force to prevent the Juneau whis-
ky fleet from taking on contraband cargo anywhere acioss the British

TIIK 801TIIKUN ISLANDS.

line and scatterinj^to noitliwiinl by myriad flinnncls. A few y«'ar8 ago
there were 21 niossv old totein-polen, many ruined lioiisei^ and pii'lureHt;ue
graves civor on C<i/ Iddinl, wliere a large eommunity used to dwell ; but
ninny of the veiuMal)h' columns have been cut, stolen, burned, and
wantonly defaced.

The Cirnviiia IslaiiciN were first seen and named by ('anmano.
Annette, the largest island of the group, is 1*7 miles in leiigtii and over
4 in width, and was named for Mrs. William H. Dall in 1880. It is
mountainous throughout, and Mt. T<iiii;itiH, ;{,)»81 ft. in height, retains
its snow-eap throughout the year, and is easily distinguished from any
side.

]*oitit Diivlmn was christened by Vancouver in honour of Alexander
Davison, owner of the fleet's storeship, and the Engli-^hmen camped for
a night at that place. Nirholh Pa.su, separating Annette and (Jravina
Islands, was named for Ciiptain II. K. Nicholls, V. S. X., who first sur-
veyed its dangeious ledges. He also named Port Chratcr, where he
found the ruined houses and decaying poh s of a Tongass eomnmnity,
whom the Chilkats had massacred sixty years liefore.

New JVIctlnkahtla.

When Mr. Duncan's j)eople sought a new home on the Alaska side,
the site of this deserted village offered all that the native ndnd deemed
essential — a good beach for canoes, sloping land for cultivation, a good
salmon stream near by, w ater-power for a saw-mill, and luarness to the
mail steamer's route. It is almost the only good canoe beach in the
region; but the wind-swept i)ass, filled with reefs and tidal cur-
rents, is the dread of steamers, and there is but a cramped anchor-
age a half mile off shore. In bad weather, and whenever it is possible,
the mail steamers leave theii consignments at Khhiknn, the distribut-
ing station in Tow/ass Xtirroir.s, 1*2 miles distant, and tourists rarely see
the actual marvel of New Metlakhtla.

Mr. Duncan visited Eastern cities of the United States in ISRe-'S^,
and speedily enlisted friends to aid the Metlukahtlans. Rev. Henry
Ward Beecher and Dr. Phillips Brooks were especial champions of his
cause, but all creeds and peoi)le as.-isted. Mr. Duncan was assure(l at
Washington that his people would be protected in the ownership of
any lands they might .select, whenever, by the extension of the general
land-laws to Alaska, that Territory was open to settlement; and the act
of Congress, Maich 3, 18i»l, provided:

"(Section 15.) That, until otherwise provided by law, tiie body of
lands known as Annette Islands, situated in Alexander Archipelago in

■M

TIIK HOUTIIKKN TSLANlKS.

soullKMstcrn Alaska, uii the N. Hide of I)ixuii\<i Kiitmiur, ho, and tlio
SHiiie irt herehy, Het apart as a reservation for tlie use of tlie iMethiltalitlu
Indians, and those people known as Mctlakahtlans, who have reeently
emigrated from Hritish Coluinhia to Alaska, and such other Alaskan
natives as may join them, to he h«'ld and used hy them in common, un-
der such rules and regulations, and subject to such restrictions, as may
he prescribed from time to time by the Secretary of the Interior."

Four hundred Metlakahtlans crossed to Alaska in the sprinj^ of
1H87. Dedicatory services were held on the arrival of Mr. Duncan,
Aufju^t 7, IHHV ; the United States ttn^ was raised and saluted hy the
tolling; of the new church-bell, and a psahn chanted by the i)eople. The
old totem-poles were destroyed, save two f^iven to tlie Siika Museum,
and, apportioninjj; the town-lots aecordinji to their own rules of indi-
vidual rank and precedenci, the Metlakahtlans bepin building their
present attractive villa{;e. The saw-mill was burned in 1889, but within
six weeks it was rebuilt, and the new machinery was euttin|r 0,(M)() ft.
of lumber a day. A second fire destroyed the mill in March, IHJ)2, biit
it was again rel)uilt; and in January, 1893, the mill and half the settle-
ment were burned.

The salmon cannery ships from C,000 to 8,000 cases each year, and
all the industries of the old Metlakahtlahave been revived. They print
their own news[»aper; and the photographer, the silversmiths, the
carvers, and bark-weavers do a large business on the occasional tour-
ist days. The church and the octagonal school-house, the boys' and
the girls' boarding-home, Mr. Duncan's residence, the cannery, the saw-
mill, and the stoie, are the points of interest, and on steamer days the
band plays on a platform built on the tall cedar stump. The Govern-
ment day-school relie\ es Mr. Duncan of much of his old w ork, and Dr.
Bluett having volunteered his services to the people, they have suit-
able medical attendance.

The original Tsimsians, with the Ilaidas and Tliugits who have
joined them, have all subscribed to and faithfully lived up to this code :

METLAKAHTLA, ALASKA.

DECLARATION OF RKSIDENTS.

We^ the people of Mrthdrihth, Alaska, hi onhr to secure tooiirsrlres and
our posterity the hlessbiffs of a Christian home, do severalli/ sub-
scribe to the follomng rules for the reyulatiou of our conduct and
town affairs :

1. To reverence the Sabbath, and to refrain fron\ all unnecessary
secular work on that day ; to attend divine worship ; to take the
Bible for our rule of faith ; to regard all true Christians as our breth-
ren ; and to be truthful, honest, and industrious.

2. To be faithful and loyal to the Government and laws of the
United States.

THK BOl'TIIEKN ISI.ANDS.

3. To icndor our votes when talliMl upon for tlu' eleiticm of tho
Town Couneil, and to promptly obt'} tlit by laws and orders imposed
by the naid Council.

4. To attend to the education of our cliildren and keep them at
school aa regularly as po.ssihic.

6. To totally abstain from all intoxicants and gamblin<r, and never
attend heathen festivities or countenance heathen custojus in surround-
inf< villaf^'es.

6. To strictly carry out all sanitary rej^ulations necessary for the
health of the town.

7. To identify ourselves with the prof,'rcss of the settlement, and to
utilize the land we hold.

8. Never to alienate, {;ivo away, or sell our land, or buiUMnj?-
lots, or any portion thereof, to any person or per.son.s who have not
subscribed to the.se rules.

The Nn-n Country.

Revillagigedo Inland, first se(>n by (iray and Caainano, was
named by Vancotiver in honour of the Conde de Revillagigedo, Viceroy
of New Spain, who sent out the expeditiims of Quadra, Caamano,
(laliano, and Vulde.**. Its Indian name Xd-n, " The country of the dis-
tant lakes," arose from the chain of |)ools which are linked throughout
its northern half. Measuring 60 miles from N. to S. and 25 miles
across its greatest breadth, it is almost divided by the long inlet named
for Captain James C. Carroll, which, opening from Toiii/ans Narrows,
cuts to within a couple of miles of liehm Canal, which almost encir-
cles the island with its graceful loop. The island is mountainous
throughout, and its deeply indented shores hold some beautiful scenery.
The only settlements have been on the west shores.

The cannery at Kh'hikan, or Fish Creek, in Tongass Narrows, has
not been rebuilt since the fire which destroyed it i: 1885. In August
this small stream is packed with humpbacked salmon, and by follow-
ing the trail from the beach for 201) yards tho tourist may see one
of the oft-described pools crowded from bank to bank with salmon,
and watch the leaping of this saltatory species. The fall is some 16 ft.
above the level of the pool at low tide, and the mass of salmon coming
in with the flood wait until the waters rise their regular 12 ft. and
shorten the jump. Impatient fish are always making the dash at the
face of the fall, reganlless of the tide, during the weeks when the hump-
backs are running. Kichikan is a centre of a rich salmon country, and
all the waters sparkle with leaping fish during their successive " runs."
Point Hiygins was named by Vancouver for the Sefior Vallenar de Hig-

5P)

'll!i; SOirMDIJX iSIwVNDS.

H i'

V
A ■

i; 1 «

;^fl

if'' ' i'

1 ■''

iMi

^ins, tfie PrcHidout of t.'liilc, ainl C/nrrr J^uhh whs tliscovcicf] tin<l Hur-
vc'vimI by l<i(!utonaiit Hicliiiidson Clovci', V,. S. N., wliilo in co iiniiind of
tlio coaHt-survcy stciirrier I'ltiii r.^on.

At Ijor»'?H^, lit tlio ciitiancc of Xnlui I'xni, tli('i<'i> ii laig(! t-alriion
cHtinei-v wliicli has absoilxfd iti the r»iic cstahli-lmicnt scvt'tal snialior
caiiiicrios and <isliori(.'S, and packs ttu! < ate!: of half a do/cn streams of
the iH'if^hhourhood. There is a post-odic" arnl tiiuling-store in conriec-
tion with it, \\\u\ a viihi<i;e o'" Toiij/ass Indians have setthfd l)e.«-ide this
pernjanent sijttlenient. The wreck of tiie /I/»roM remains a (ronspieiious
uhjeel on the rocky shore, wliere it was blown l»y a ivUI'nvi'.in or *' wool-
ly " as it was lettinfr f^o from th'; wharf at hif^h tiileon Au;;ust 25, 18H9.
The jjasscn-rers walked down the gan^'-|)lank as the; shij) settled, and,
with all the ship's fnrnishin;rs removed to the canneiy loft, livinj: there
for five days until the next steamer returned them to Port Townsend.

THK I'ACIMC SALMON.

There are five varieties of the i'acific salmon ( 0//'r;r//,///'7a/.^ the
hook-jawed). TIk; l*a<ific sahiion and tlie I'aciiie tro it diifer so from
the Atlantic species that it is a fine (|ue,«^tion wh<'ther t''ore are any
true salm'ii '-.i- tr()Ut on that coast, and wlietlier any {.'ame laws cjin he
lef^ai'.v cn/orced under sutli nioues.

(htforliipirhuH th<ii(irliii^ or kinj; salmoi , is tlu; ijnbmal «d' tln^ Co-
huuhia, tlie Chinook and Taku faither N., Iiut everywhere recognized
as the ///.'v (clii<'f), Aveia<.dn;.r iroiri CiO to H() |)oumiIs in the Stikine, it
increases to lot) po* .;!,^ in the ^'ukon. Its fh'sh is pale, and crtndn'.^ in
pairs i'iid not in ;^reai, schools, it i.- not the whole paek of any (Hie can-

Onr(,i /ii/nc/in.s ?/>/7ra, tlr; i-d salmon, is the idue-hack of Oregon,
the soeke\ (• of the I<"ra>er, and the canuf'r's favourite because of the
touf^hriess and the decj) tint of its flesh. Jt aveia;.^(!s and 10 [muuds
in weight, and visits the coast in incredible numbers.

Oiiiorhiiiii'!!"" hisntrli^ the silver salmon, is the most beautiful of
its kind and tiu^ mo^-t spiiitecl. It alway> chooses clear watr-r, and leaps
fulls with agility. Its flesh is pule, and i,. unlit for camdng within a
few hours after landing.

()>i<-or/tifiii/iu.s '/orfn'Nf/ia, th" liiimplfack, is most al)unilant »;f the
species, and averages from o to 1<, |>our"!s. TIk^ pale flesh cooks soil iii
cans and is not desired foi' pa. kin;i, although of fine flavour. Tin;
huinpback i-' even more plentiful than ilie re<l salmo!i, and ca. outjump
any other species. Their leaps ha\e not b; en njeordeil, like tint ihani-
nien Hiver ..alnK.n in No; way that jumpe<l lf'» ft. up the face of a fall,
but Lieutenant N'iblack photographed one in the act of springing eight
feet.

The first run of fiurs comes in the early spring. In .lune the red
salnKHi come i'i bv l)i\on Knii.ince, clo.-elv followed bv the silver sulm-

"k^

Tin-; SO! TMKkN ISLANDH.

r "^

oil. Ill Augiij't the liumphfu'ks appe.'ir, and in SpiitcmlxM- there i.s a
last \n'\ ot' ///'r.v t<) the iip-strcaiii iiml inoiitifain hike s|)ii\vniti;r^'^i()iin(lH.
The yoiin<^ sahiioii .seeks the st-u w ith the hi;^li water in spiiii^r, and re-
tinns at the end of two years to its hiithplaee.

The iriJihna or Dolly Vaith'n trout, lollow the sahiion in fr<jni the
sea to d«;vour their f;:^s, and the eriKJest tackh; liaiterl with «ahiion
roe will eatch 1 and 5 poiiml lish of the most heautiful eoloniinfjf.

There is also the tiit-thi-oiit tioiit, with the viviil red mark !)elow
lh(! ;^ills, an<l the liir;z<' stt'<'l head, '■iiirdnc'r or rainbow trout, so often
elassed as a salmon, and paekc*] iis -pcckled suliiion at many canneries.
Trol. David S. .lordaii, iIh; first iiutliority on Pacific eoast lisli, says that
any one who can count can tell the difVerenci! between a salmon ami a
trout. A I'licifie siilmon has from 1;! to ]<» rays in the anal or la^t
lower iin, while a trout has hut '.• oi' lo rays. The ori;,'inal Atlantic
salmon has hut 10 or 1 1 rays in 'Ik; anal fin.

Fine distinctions as to parrs, eliarrs, smolts, and grilses aie not
wei;jrhcd in Alaska. The eanner.s de.sire only an aliundance of tirm, red-
liesln-d fish.

'I'lic rivalry of Alaska canneries jrreatly injured the business on the
Columbia. The y? canneries in Alaska, rc|)rcsentinff an investment of
more than sl,'»00,()(i(), employ between ~>^ui)ii uinl <"(,00(i people; and
loo steam-vess(ds. The pack of IH'.U, nmouiitiii;.' to 7H'.»,oo() cases (d"
48 one-pound tins each, so overstocked tlie market that a combination
was foi'iiied, "i'.t caimiiiies vere cIos(,'il, and the pack of 1 H'j^ reduced
to 400,000 cases. Only 2 of the ITcanmMies in southeastern Alaska
were operated that year, those at Loring and ("hilkat. In \H'X'> the
pack was limited to t).")0,0(iO cases.

;e(i
Itlm-

S.\l,.MON CAXNKItlKS.

At Loiin<r the best opporiunily is afVoided for watching the ean-
niiig of salmon, which is in projiiess from June t(» September by a
large- force of (,'liiiiese contract woikuKTi. The seining and outdoor
work aie done t)y white men, a few Indians l)ei. g so-'iictiiiies employed
under them. While indii-tiious to a degK-e, tin; T'ingit cannot h(t de-
pended upon ; ami the native is too apt to strike, to start ujion a pro-
longed potlatch, or go berrying oi' fishing on his own account, in the
height of the salmon run. In ihe.-kilful manipulation of tin; cans and
machines within doors., neither he nor the wliite rnan can a|>proach the
automatic exactness and dext<M'ity of the Chinese, who, being paid by the
piece, tak<; no acc(junt of a day's working houis, and keep the ma-
chinery moving as long as there aic fi.sli in the cannery. The fish aie
thrown from the arriving scows to a lavticed floor, or loaded directly
into the trucks and rolled into the casineiy. The cleaner seizes a fi.ili
and in two seconds trims and cleans it — beheading, detailing, and rend-
ing it with se many strokes of his long, thin knife. It is washed,
scalped, cut in set-tions the lep-fth of a can, packed, soldeK^I, steamed,
tested, vented, steamed again, resoldered, laetpiered, labelled, an<l
boxed. The tin is taken u[) in sheets, and an ingenious machine

TJIE SOUTH KKN I8LA3JD8.

I i

III

1 J

4^1

ilii

111!

I i

punches, rolln, and fitn the covers to tlie cane, -vl,^;!' roll down an
inclined gutter of melted solder which clof-es tl**- edgfwi The exp "ts
can tell, by a tap of the fin^r, if n^ih can if j)i»»f-ti}j!,ll*«t. If not her-
metically cloned, the contents rapv^'ly change, hurst the -ann - t'-^mit
" helow," o!' explode unpleasantly in distant markets. The Alaska
canners are not held to any lestrictions as in IJritish (.'olumbia, not
taxed or hindeied in any way. They luay take any ])iece of ground
they see lit in tracts of lOO acics, and receive a j)atent after paying
$1.25 an acre and the cost of survey. There is no tax upon cannery
boats, no limit t(j the size of net-meshes, no close season, and the salm-
on inspector, who is suj)posed to prevent the placing of wt irs and
traps in the streams, has no vessel at his command with which to en-
force the laws. The canneries drain the crnintry of their natural
wealth ; make no p»'rmanent sHtlements, nor ;iny improveiii'-nts ; spend
almost nothing of their profits in the Territory ; ^nd are a fruitful
source of troul)le and corrufttion among the native i^eople.

The Revilla^i^cdo Lakes aiid Behm CaMal.

The famed beauty of Naha Bay is not apf/aient ff*/fi. ti«>ring.
There is a fine wateifall a (piarter of a mile abf/je the cannery, r< >»< bed
by a trail through the woods. Two miles above Loring the b'wy nar-
rows and terminates in a ritl-ilc-sa<\ where lu,0(»() salmon have been
drawn ashore from a single cast of the seine. A sharp point of lane
separates this cove from the first in the chain of four lakes, and the
connecting stream is less tlmn lOo fl. in length. This Lake Adorable
is more properly a lagoon, as it is 12 It. below high-tide mark, and the
cascading stream empties and tills the lake by turn, aii'J the seine is
cast at eithei- end of these rapids.

Lake Adorable, as it was named in 1885, is 4 miles long and 2
miles across, with nuignificent mossy forests closely surrounding it. It
glitters with leaping salmon all summer long, as they cross it to run
the gauntlet of the cascading streams that join lake to lake far into the
heart of the island. Laige salmon have several times taken trout-files
from these shores and wrecked light rods. (Jreedy malma follow with
the salmon, and n.iay always be caught. Both black and cinnamon
bears are found on the island. Tlwy are first seen in spring, when
they come out to feed upon the skunk-cal)bage {L>/sirh(on Karnthafkcit-
si.v), which with its huge tropical leaves i» like , banatui-tree half
buried. Four black bears liave been seen at once pawing salmon
ashore from the sedges along Lake Adorable, and in the dense salmon
berry thickets atid along the shores of the farther lakes they are less
often frightened away l»y tnan. The old smok"-house on the stream

THE SOUTIIEKN ISLANDS.

2
It

■un
the
'lies

ith

nion

ben

kcii-

luilf

lion
nion

less
feani

connecting the first, unci second lakes has several times been used as a
sportsman's camp, and touches upon the most complete wilderness,
while near to a ba^e of supplies. There is a small red deer on the
island, but the skin-hunters threaten its early extermination in the
rej^ion, as 25,00(1 skins were shipped from liorinji; in IH'.Ht. Wolves
are niunercHU' , fjcese, swans, mallard, teal, and a so-called canvas-back
duck flock by the fa ,ther lakes; and cajoles iilways tempt shots when
a sportsman has once 3een the ex(iuisitcly line and downy robes made
from their breasts.

Escape Point, at the northern entrance of Naha Hay, celebrates
Vancouver's escape from the Indians who attacked his [tarty in 7V«/-
toi's^ Cove, '} miles beyond. Canoes had followed the white men from
the bend of IJehin ("anal, and " the old vixen," with the laii^e labrette in
her lip, who scecred and' commanded the iarj^est canoe, was bent on
hostilities from the start. While the three bcjats were se|)arated, the
vixen came alongside Vineouver's yawl, snatched the lead-line and
made fast with it. Iler ciew donned wolf masks, jumped aboard and
seized the muskets; five canoes closed in, their crews shouting and
daneing. The commanding virago was plainly exhorting them to an
attack, when Vancouver gave the order to fire with the weapons they
had drawn from the arms-chest. Those in the small canoes rolled out
and swam ashore. Those in the big war canoe cut the line, and all
.sprang to one side, careening the canoe so that its side shielded them
as they paddled away. Two of Vancouver's men were wounded, and
before they could proceed the swimmers climbed the sheer bliiff and
hurled rocks down upon the boats.

Yess Bay, on the moii'.md shore oi)[t()>ite Tiaitors' Cove, is a
mere >liip-way through the forest, navigable by large steamers for 2
miles to a point where the cannery i • situated, and accessible only to
canoes beyond that point. The narrow ])as-agv^ is exceedingly jiictur-
esque, and the brawling stream b\- the cannery leads to a lake of great
beauty, where (io pounds of trout have been lured by the e(»mmonest
Hy in two hours. The Coast Survey nametl [he \>h\v(' Mi/)(mtil(l J{<ti/,
but the local name liaving become vacU established in cummeice liefoic-
hand, it is only alluded to as )V.s,v /ici/.

BurrougJisi's Bui/, at the mouth of the rnuk |{iver, is a deep bowl in
the raountairs where Vancouver fished in August, 17-';', and called his
piizes "hunchbacked salmon." "They had little of the colour and
nothing of the flavour of salmon, and they were very insip'id and indiffer-

(JO

THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS.

ent food," he wrote. The .shores were covered with dead salmon then, as
they are now at the liei^ht of the run, when tho retreating tides strand
acres of fisli on the rivei' bars, A cannery was ostabli.shed at Bur-
roiighs's liny in 1885, and while- it was in operation tlie mail steamers
regularly made the tour of liehm Canal *. There is placer gold in the
bar."< of the C/nd- liii'<)\ n turbid, glacier-fed stream, which heads 100
miles inland. It is navigable for 70 miles by canoe, hut hunters of
the bear, mountain goat, and mountain sheep, which abound in this
region, ".re warned l)y the sui'voyors of dangerous rapids and whirl-
pools.

The mainland .■chores are very abrupt all along Behm Cnual, the
way is narrow, and Commander Newell, V. S. X., who was among the
first to curry a large steamer around Hcvillagigedo, declares the view
northward from J'oint Si/kcs the finest in southern Alaska. The
landmark in that stictch is the New Eddystoiie Rock, which rises
like a ruined vine-clad tower 25o ft. from the water, with a circumfer-
ence of less than 50 yards at the base. There are a few crevices in
its side to maintain the green wreaths and pbimes that permanently
decorate it, and it could lie ca,«ily scaled. Vancouver named it after
breakfasting on its sandy base ; and in 187".* the Coast Survey named
the Ixudyoni Ban ""'' ^^"^ other points neai- it for engineers and oth-
ers connected with the building of the fann)us Eddystone Light on the
coast of England.

*! A

Friuce of Wales Island.

Prince of Wales, the largist island of the Ab'xander Archipel-
ago, i> second in >ize to Vancouver Island, extending 2(iO miles from
N. to S., with a bi'eadth of 20 and (10 miles. It is a miniature conti-
nent, with an island belt on the ocean coast sheltering a continuous
Insi'Je I'dtiNiifff, navigable by canoes and launches. It is mountainous
throughout ; cedar groves dot its shores ; tine salmon streams lead to
scores of mountain lakes, and in climate it has been called the Lan-
cashire of the coast. Hccause of its wealth of cedar and salmon. Con-
gress was once asked to declare the island a go\ eminent reservation of
ship timber for the use of the navy-yards on the Pacific coast, and to

* Named for Major Hehm, comnuuidant at the Russian port in Kam-
chatka, where Cook's ships wintered under Captain King. Ceorge
Vancouver was midshipman on this third and last voyage of the greit
navigator, James Cook.

THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS.

(il

lipel-

:rom

'onti-

mous

inouR

1(1 to

( On-

Kam-

i'or<!;e
greit

leavse the s.ilmon-fishcrio::;. The very mention of Alaska has alwavs
been sufficient to convulse the Congress at Washington ; and although
the proposed reservation was larger than the State of Xew Jersey, and
would have brought in a considerable revenue, the humorous legislators
did nothing.

The yellow cedar (CnpremK ?m//Ay<^y?w/n), which ranges from the
Queen Charlotte Islands to Yakutat, is ihe mt>^t valuable timber on
the Pacific coast. The t'ee reaches a diameter of 5 and S ff. and a
height of 150 ft., growing in patches and small groves, and easily
distinguished from the rigid, symmetrical spruces by its darker foliage,
its ragged and uneven limbs with their plumy, willowy, tassolled tips.
It has a pale-yellow colour and a close fine graiii, exhnling a slig'ii
resinous odour when first cut. The (,'hinese valued 't highly, an 1 the
Russians carried on a large trade in cedar logs. At Canton it nas
made into chests that passed as camphor-wood, and wlien carved and
scented was palmed off as sandal-wocd. It is as much the aversion of
moths as are the other fragrant cedars. It is the one ship tind)er of the
Pacific coast, the only wood which repels the teredo, and ships' tim-
bers have been found to be souiul and good after lying under water for
thirty years. The few vessels built of yellow cedar have the best
standing, since hulls of Oregon pine can only be insured as A. \o. 1
for three years, and the average Puget Sound pile i- eaten througli in
the same time. One luillion dollars a year is said to be spent in driv-
ing and replacing piles in Puget Sound wharves, while the yellow ceilai'
of Alaska is untouched, and the law forbids its exportation. Small
lots of yellow cedar have been sold at Portland for ^1') per thousand
feet; local cabinet-makers havt^ jnade much use of it, and Hon. Wil-
liam Ii. Seward secured enougti cedar during his visit to Alaska to
finish the great hall of his Auburn residence. The natives u.se this
wood for canoe and house building, for totem-poles and all carved
work. The inner bark furnishes them with a tough fibre which re-
places ropes or thongs, and, finely shredded, is \voven into mats, sail>,
blankets, baskets, and hats. They destroy countless trees by this
girdling, and ghosts of dead cedars show all along shore.

All the S. and W. coast of Prince of Wales Island is historic ground.
At Cape Chacon, or the traders' .Musatchie Xose, Juan Perez lan<lcd in
IV'H, and finding a native with a Russian gun in his possession, marked
the line of 54' 4t»' as the limit of Russian rule, and by the same token
the northern l)oundary of Spanish possessions.

The Ilaiicagas originally claimed all the ocean shores, but one hun-
dred and fifty or iwo hundred years ago they were driven n irthward l»y
the Ilaidas from North Island of the Queen Charlotte gioap, a band of
pirates and freebootors who successfully defied the neigliboining ti ilies,
and terrorized the mainland coast. At last the other Ilaidas, comliin^'d
with the Nass and Tsimsian warriors, attackeii North Island, routed the

Till-: SOUTHERN ISLANDS.

1 {15 l

rencRadew, and destroyed their villages. The survivors put to sea,
landed on the opposite shore of the entrance, and in time pushed their
villa;^es up to Tlevak Strait and around to Thorne liay, on the E. side
of the island. They drove the French flag from this coast early in the
century by killing the native otter-hunters whom a French trader had
leased from the liussian chief manager at Sitka. After indemnifying
the Sitkans for their 2;^ dead relatives at *2()0 each, the Frenchman
had G;3 otter-skins worth *£ each to take to Canton. His experience
<leterred his countrymen from competing in the profitable fur-trade of
the Northwest Coast.

These Tleviakans, Kaigahnces, or Prince of Wales Haidas, have
their largest village at IfoAvkan, in Cordova Bay, behind Dall Island.
The Boston fur-traders used to anchor near the village in the harbour
which Captain Etholin surveyed in 183;^, and named Auurkan Bay.
Ilowkan is a Stikiiie word meaning " fallen stone," and the original
howkan lies on the l)each, wliether myth or meteorite none know.

The village is rarely visited by mail steamers, receiving its mail
and consignments by small steamer from ^fary Mand ov Fort Wrangell.
A Presbyterian mission was estal)lishcd at Howkan hi 1881. In 1883,
when the writer first visited the village, it was a place of totemic
delight. Tall totem-poles guarded houses, and skeleton ruins of
houses, crowded to the water's edge, ranged back through the under-
brush, and lined a farther ])each where graves and ruins were en-
tangled in a young jungle. Mosses and lichens half covered the faces
of the crows and eagles, grasses and ferns flourished in every crevice
of the carvings, and bushes and even young spruce-trees, 10 ft. high,
grew on the tops of totem-poles. Skolka, the head chief, had a magnifi-
cent column by his doorway, with two children with storied hats above
his ancestral eagle and the image of a bearded white man beneath the
bird. He i-ead a sad chapter of his family history from this picture rec-
ord. A woman of the eagle clan went to gather salmon-eggs one day,
and while she cut frcth branches to lay in the water, and filled her
baskets, her two cliihlreii played. When "^he was ready to return she
called tlie chihlren, but they ran and hid. She called again and again,
but they answered her fioni the woods with the voices of crows, and
for many moons the crows mocked her ciles. It was believed that the
white traders had stolen them. The lost ones nevev returned, and the
story of the kidnai)ped childien has frightened generations of little
eagles. The same i..ius and trader ornament a pole in Kasa-an Bay,
and exhort those '^mall Kaigahnees of the eagle brand to civil speech
and obedience. Skolka's next-door neighbour in days of yore was an
old chief, whose young and pretty wife found a big frog while search-
ing in her liege's locks o\w day. The nine days' wonder was recorded
in the next tolem-pole erected, and there one may still see the old
chief, the frog, and the moon-faced bride to prove the tale.

The Kaigahnees, like every tribe, have a legend of a great flood and

THE SOUTHERN -IB LANDS.

the
icc-
(lay,
Irt
slie
;ain,
and
tlie
the
little
liay,
)eech
an
irch-
)r(led
old

I and

a sin<:[;le canoe coniinp; to rest with two survivors on the top of a moun-
.,iin. In 188.'} one ancient claimed to have the l>ark rope that held
the anchor of the bij^ canoe when it rested on the high mountain
behind Ilowkan — a talisman of great power. They hare a tale twin
to ours of Lot's wife, but their Sodom and (Jomoirah were on Forrester
Island, and a brother and sister fleeing from a pestilence were l)oth
turned to stone, because the woman looked back while crossing a river.
Their petrified bodies still stand in that river, and their petrified lodge
may be seen on its bank.

When Wiggins's storms were promised to all North America in March,
1882, a white man at Kasa-an liay read and explained the prophecies
to the Kaigahnees. The warning ran ra|)idly from village to village,
and at Howkan all began moving their things to the high ground, and
were carrying u[) water and provisions for one whole afternoon. They
believed that the promised tidal wave was coming, and, at the time set
for the storm, began to say, "Victoria all gone!" There was a heavy
storm outside that March night, and the agent of the trading company,
returning from the Klimjuan fishery in a wlude-boat, was drowned by a
wave upsetting the boat as he let go the tiller to furl the sail.

It was at Port Bazan, across Dall Island, that a Kaigahnee found
the remains of Paymaster Walker, who was lost vith the steamer Ucorgc
S. Wright, in February, 1873. The loss of the Wright was one of the
tragedies of the sea, and is still a current topic in Alaska. The steamer
left Sitka on its return trij) to Portland with several army officers and
their families and residents on board. It was last seen at Cordova
Bay, on the south end of Prince of Wales island, and, in the face of
warnings, the captain put out to sea in a heavy storm, as he was
hurrying to Portland for his wedding. It is supposed that the ship
foundered, or struck a rock on the Queen Charlotte shore. The most
terrible anxiety prevailed as week after week went by with no tidings
of the Wright, and the feeling was intensified when the rumour was
started that it had been wrecked near a village of Kuergefath Indians,
and that the survivors had l)een tortured and put to death. Two years
after the disappearance of ilie Wright the body of Major Walker was
found in Port Bazan, recognizable only by fragments of his uniform
that had been held to him by a life-preserver. Other remains aind bits
of wreckage were found in the island recesses, and the mysterv of the
Wright was cleared.

In the Howkan and the Kaigahnee legion everytiiiing has been named
and charted three and four times. Cape Mnznn itr«lf was naai'ed Cope
Munoz l)y the Spaniards, and Vancouver copied tihc name incorrectly.
Dixon had mimed it Cape Pitt before him, and Tebenkoff ci('le<l it Cape
Kaigahnee afterward. The original village of Kaigahncc was near this
cape, but since its abandoiuuent that name is as often applied to Ilowkan.
Kaigan is the .l.ipanese word for strand or s(!ashore, and its use in this
connection gives great comfort to those wluj contend for the Asiaric
origin of these people. The missionaries named the place Jackson, and
the Post-Oflice Department sent blanks an<i cancelling stamptf; marked
Haidd Mission. Captain Nichols resisted ail appeals to enter Jnchson on

THE BOUTIIERN ISLAM)S.

liBH:

. ,, SI'

the Coast Survey charts, and the Board of Geof^raphio Naiiics made
Ihni'Jcnv the lej^al and oflicial appellation. This is only one of many
similar incidents in the naminji of the region.

The Ilowkan Mission has a saw-mill beyond American Bay, and the
Klawak cannery and mill are niched in the far end of Bucarelli Bay,
that picturesque, cedar-lined reach where Bodega and Maurelle took
possession in the name of Spain in 1775. Mail and excursion steamers
never visit this shore, and the Klawak cannery runs its own schooners to
San Francisco, and steam launches to Ilowkan, or Fort Wranj^el, for
mails. A mission and a (ilovernment school care for the Hanegas, who
inliahit this W. coast, a tribe (piite as untamable foi a century as the
Kaigahnees. There is an inside passage from Dixon Entrance to Sumner
Strait, and a large cannery and saw-mill at Shakaii, or Chican, olF the
N, end of Prince of Wales. That saw-mill was doing a large business
in cedar shingles with San Francisco in 18S9, when the zealous timber
agent desi'cnded, a cargo was confiscated, a large fine levied, and the
mill was silenced.

Vancouver sighted tlie " very remarkable banen, peaked mountain "
on the N. end of Prince of Wales, which he named for his friend
Captain Calder, of the navy ; l)ut other navigators briefly describe Mt.
Calder as a volcano, and tell of its eruption towards the close of the last
century. The northern and eastern shores of the island down to Thome
Bay are claimed by the Stikines, and their first village is in Red Bay^
the Kntsnaia of the Russian traders. The dreaded Eye-opener, or Shoo-
Fly Rock, is off its entrance, and ))y a sharp turn a ship runs into a
small opening that narrows until it can ))arely pass. Beyond this
gateway the bay rounds out into a placid reach, with magnificent trees
crowding to the water's edge. There was a small saltery there in 1884,
and another at Salmon Creek, Y,. of Red Bay.

Kasa-aii Bay, on the E. coast of Prince of Wales Island, pene-
trates some 17 miles in a westerh direction, and several fine salm(m
streams empty into its arms and inlets. Skowl's old village, the original
Kasa-an, is on Skowl Ann, which opens southwardly near the entrance.

At the time of Skowl's death his village held 1 7 great lodges,
and the threescore totem-poles constituted the finest collection of their
kind in Alaska. This chief of the eagle clan was an autocrat of the
old school, ruled his peo])le with a rod of iron, held them to the old
faiths and customs, and gave missionaries no welcome. A totem-pole
in his village showed the image of a priest, an angel, and a book, and
was intended as a derisive reminder of the efforts made to convert him

TIIK SOL'TIJEKN ISLANDH.

There is an inteiosting old jiraveyanl on the N. shore, half-way up Kasa-
an IJay, near the JJaronovieh eopper-inine, which was much exploited
twenty years a<ro.

The Ihirotutvich Flx/irn/ is in a eove of A'urtii lini/, at the extreme
end of the opeiiin<::, and was established at the tiiin' of the transfer hy
a Russian trader who niariied Skowl's daugiiter. It was a headquarters
of sniuj^glinfj; ojierations during the first years of United States (jwner-
ship of Alaska, and Haronovicii was one of the first of pelagic sealers
or rookery raiders, returning with '.»,(!(»(» fur-seal skins from a mysterious
cruise in a small schooner in the summer of IStlS, In hScS;") the customs
oflicers found over !^40,0l)0 worth of j)repared opium at this Hshory,
packed in barrels and ready for shipment below as salt sahuon. Since
that event the fishery has been al)andon('d, and the catch of Kasdiui,
Tohti)}, Thornc^ and Sobnon Bays on the E. coast of Prince of Wales
Island, are towed in scows to the Lorin;/ cannery.

Cholmondeley Sound, which extends inland for lit miles, was
named by Vancouver, and JJoni Bat/, its scenic boast, with Mf. En-
(lorn, 8,500 ft. high at its end, were nanu^l for Mrs. Uichardson Clover.
Moira Sound, another of Vancouver's discoveries, and the northcrii arm
reaching almost to tlie base of Mt. Kudora, is much lauded for its scenic
combination. Niljlack anchoiage was named for Lieutenant A. P. Nib-
lack, U. S. N., who conducted the surveys in this region and gathered
the material for his valuable work on The Coast Indians of Soiithern
Alaska and Northern British Cohuubia, published as part of the Kcport
of the U. S. National Museum, 1887-'8H. It contains the fullest ex-
planation of the arts, customs, and social organization of these interest-
ing people.

This report, and the other U. S. Covernment pul)lications referred
to, cannot be i)urchase(l, but can be obtained for any United States
citizen who makes proper ai)p]ication to a Senator or Representative
in Congress from his State.

Fort Wiaii;?oll.

Vancouver's Duke of* Clarence Strait is loT miles in length,
and at its northern end is sensi})ly discoloured by the fresh water of the
Stik'me Rivt'r. Fort Wrangell, on the islan<l of that name off the
mouth of that river, was the second settlement in southeastern Alaska
after Sitka, and commands a broad mountain-walled harlmur that lies 80
miles in from the open ocean. This gives it warmer and drier sum-
mers and colder winters than places on the outer coast, the mercury
often rising above 90" in July, and renuiining above 80° for a fortnight
at a time. The winter average of 28";j° leaves the harbour open, and

I rOi;

THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS.

!:ir

[1 fill

:!' liii

extreme cold is rarely known. John Mnirlms highly extolled its bland,
Hoothin}^, " poultice-like atmosphere," and {greatly praised the mountain
panoruma unrolled to one who climba the hill behind the old fort.

The first settlement on Wrom/rif hhiud was made by order of the
chief mana^'er, Adnural-UaronWranffcll who sent the captain-lieutenant,
Dionysius Kcodorovich Zarembo, down from Sitka, in ISIJt, to erect a
stockade-post, and with the aid of a corvette prevent the llud.son Hay
(!ompany from re-estal)lishinj; trading-posts on the Stikine liiver. Tliis
Redoubt St. iJloyii/siiis was built on the first point of land below the
wharf, and witli the hostile threats of the natives Zarembo succeeded
in driviu}! off the British ship. This hindrance to the free navigation
of the Stikine was a plain violation of the Treaty of 1S'J4, and after five
years of diplomatic controversy it was settled by itussia |)aying ,£2(>,000
indemnity and leasing all the Thn'tii-inilc Strip from Dixon Entrance to
Yakutat to the 11. IJ. Co., first for a term of ten years, and then by re-
newed leases until the transfer of Russian Ameriia to the United
States. Sir (Jeorge Siiupscm considered all the Hritish possessions in the
interior, adjacent to the Thirty-mile Strip, as worthiest*, imless it were
leased to them. He named the new post Fort Slihiiir, and his men led
an exciting life there, their fierce neighbours attacking and besieging
them, and several times cutting their foot-bridge and the fiume that
carried water to the fort. After the discovery of gold cm the river and
the influx of miners, fiu-trading languished, the river posts were aban-
doned, and there was little loss to the company when its lease ended
with the transfer of Russian Anun-ica to the United States.

A new site was chosen for the United States military post of Fort
Wrangell in 1H07, and the large stockade was first garrisoned by two
companies of the Twenty-first Infantry, that remained until 1870, when
the post v-is abandoned, the ground and binldings sold to W. King
Lear for $600. The discovery of the Cassiar mines, at the head-waters
of the Stikine, and sent a tide of new life into the deserted street, and a
company of the Fourth Artillery occupied the barracks from 1875 to 1877,
when the Government withdrew its troops from all posts in Alaska.
During the second occupation the tenants fixed the rent of the prop-
erty, and paid the protesting landlord a tenth of what he might have
received at that time. In 1884 the Treasury Department took posses-
sion of the buildings, on the ground that the sale of 1870 was illegal,
and Installed the deputy-collector in the fort. Twenty years after Mr.
Lear's purchase of the property, the Sitka court decided that, as the
original sale was illegal and unconstitutional, Mr. Lear was entitled to
hia $t)00 with interest, and the caime celibre was ended. As the old
buildings went to ruin, they lent Fort Wrangell a certain interest and
pieturesqueness, and the weather-beaten stockade and a leaning block-
house were most sketchable ; but all these fine studies in weather tones
and lichen-growths have been destroyed, the restorer has driven pie-
turesqueness out of the quadrangle, and the old (puuters are used by
the civil officers — a deputy-collector, commissioner, marshal, postmas-
ter, and superintendent of education.

»>

H ,! 111!

THE SOUTH KRX ISLANDS.

{ ,

With the Hl)!in(l»)niiiont of the ininiiij.' icj^ions up tho Stikine, Fort
Wranfj«'ir.'J trmlo has falli'ii to ahiiost nothing;, anil the Huw-inill repre-
sents its ihief industry. Tlic Stikincs do a lai<;e tuiio business in the
summer season, and the traders' stores oveiliow witii eoarse earvings,
baskets, and native silver-work. A few furs are brouj^lit from tlie
Stikine eountrv. Specimens of dark-<rray miea slate, sprinkled with
large almandite garnets, are l)roMght from a ledge near I'oint Rothsay
for sale.

There is an old river-hoat on the Iteaeh, so built over and grown
with weeds that only the line of the guards suggi-sts its original estate.
This Hn<hhr (iriUHjc eleaied .^i^l ;'>."), (M)0 each season its stern-wheel
beat the Stikine Hood, and when its machinciy gave out l»eyond all re-
pair, it was floated ashore, and was a prolitable venture as a hotel.
Then it fell to the mission of a bakery, whose Chinese proprietor gather-
ing his kind about him made it headcpiarters for those Celestials who
patiently worked abandoned jdacers, ami carried nuich Stikine gold
away long after the boom had broken.

As late as 1HS;{ a forest of totem-poles rose l)y tho great lodges in
the Stikines' village. In 1S«):{ oidy a half dozen remained, and the
show pair guard a l>ay-windowed cottage which replaces the ancestral
lodge. One of these relates the legends of the builder's family, the
other that of his wife. The wife's pole is surmounted by her clan-
totem, the eagle. The inui<;e of a child, a beavei', a frog, an eagle, a
frog, and a frog, continue to the ground. This frog is tlie crest of a
sub-family, the insignia of a niedicine-num, a i)estilence, a miraculous
cure, big medicine, or as the food (»f the eagle naturally represented
with it — all according to as many interpreters. The l)uilder's pole is
covered with his own image, the two-storied hat indicating two great
potlatches or degrees in greatness. Ueneath is his own mother totem,
the crow, and at the base of the pole the eagle, the totem of his wife,
and hence of his children.

The wolf and the whale, from two famous medicine-men's grave,
ornament the old parade-grouml.

Shnki.HK (fr(ivi\ on the point reached by a foot-bridge, is an object
of interest. Shakes and his rival, Qualkay, were in evidence when Sir
George Simpson visited Fort Stikine in 184 1. Qualkay long ago suc-
cumbed and was set away in charge of his totemic guardian, but Shakes
cumbered the earth for another forty years, causing and spilling much
bad blood, foraging the lower coast to fai' Nisqually, opposing the mission-
aries, i)rv\ving h'xx hiuoo, and quarrelling with the other village chiefs
as \or\i as itie breath was in him. He was a chief of the old school,
like Si kaI, I'nd when he died there wa< a wake and a funeral that
paled all poilatch tales of old. Hi- body was laid out in state trap-
pings. The carved chests were pilrdhigh. There were furs and blank-
ets galore ; loir.-i pa.-t envious counting ; gangs of slaves, and last the
precious heirloom and insignia of his line — a stuffed grizzly with cop-
per claws and eyes, and movable jaws that assisted at great dances and
ceremonies, and, being possessed by the body of a man, took {)art in
theatrical representations that dei)icted the great family legends. In

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

^L' MP

THE 8TIKINE RIVER.

deluge-time Shakes'^ ancestors took the bear into their canoe and saved
him from drowning. When the canoe grounded on n mountain, the
bear brought them food, und from an alliance with this bear were de-
scended all his people. One bear column shows the footprints of the
bear that crawled to the top of the tree whence he was rescued by
Shakes's ancestors ; and when Shakes was laid away in a balconied pa-
vilion on the Point, a bear was put on guard.

Kadashan has inherited the orca-.stafF that rules the tribe and a fine
war canoe. For a sufficient purse he and a rival (i/ce will muster crews
of thirty-two and paddle a spirited race. They paddle to a chant, the
fierce old war-song of the " northern Indians " that spread terror on
the lower coast.

Shn-stacks Point was the home of another chief, who long defied
the mi.<sionaries' effort^, but who was laid away in his ornamented
gnive soon after Cfnh, the Christian Tsimsian, acceded to the Sti-
kines' request and opened a school in their midst. Mr. Seward and
General Howard had vainly appealed to mission boards, but the letter
of a private soldier describing the pathetic efforts of these people to do
for themselves made most irnpiession, and in 1877 the Presbyterian
Board sent Rev. Sheldon Jack.son to investigate. He found the won-
derful Clah teaching in a dance-hall leased from the miners, and,
guarded by the chief Toyatt, opening his school with hymn and prayer.
A teacher was left for that winter, and the next year Mrs. McFarland
opened a girls' boai'ding-sch(K)l, which, after its own building was
burned, was imited with the Sitka school. A Catholic chapel was built
during garrison diiys, and receives periodical visits from the Jesuit
father at Juneau, but as the Tlingits have been given in charge of the
Presbyterian Board, the Roman church does not attempt any evangel-
ical work among them. A Methodist and a Presbyterian cliurch and
(lovernment day school are the forces at work, and are judged suffi-
cient and satisfactory.

The pre-em[)tor of the old company gardens beyond the fort has
proved in these later days that vegetable and [)oultry raising are more
certain and profitable ventures in Alaska than mining. Cabbages and
mangel-wurzel reach prodigious size ; cauliflowers measure 18 inches
around ; and peas, beans, lettuce, celery, rhubarb, and radishes thrive.
This enthusiastic planter believes that he could have ripened wheat
during two dry summers, and perhaps corn. Wild timothy grows 6 ft.
high in old clearings, and clover-heads are twice the size of Eastern
clover, each blossom wide-spread, as red and fragrant as a carnation
pink.

The Stikine River.

There is a salmon cannery at T<abouchere Bay, 2 miles from
Fort Wrangell, on the north point of the i-^land. A trail through the
woods connects the two settlements. This spot is better known as
the Point Highjicld of Vancouver, and commands a view of the mouth
of the Stikine River and the high peaks surrounding its delta.

THE STIKINE RIVER.

Although Vancouver's men, in rcatuhig thin point, were Hurromuled
by the grey-green and turbid Hood of the great i«treain, tliey did not diti-
cover it, the third great river of the coast which they ahnost entered
unawares. Captain Cleveland, of the American sloop Dragon^ and Cap-
tain Rowan, of the Eliza, visited the delta and learned of the great
stream in 1799. Hudson Bay Co. employes knew the head-waters,
soon after their repulse by Zarerabo at Fort Dionysius. Mr. Robert
Campbell tells of his discovery of its .sources in a letter to Senator M.
('. Butler, dated Riding Mountain House, Manitoba, November 30,
1881:

" Being an employd of the Hudson Bay Co., I was for a series of
years employed by it in exploring, trading, and extending the trade in
the till then unknown part of the Rocky Mountains, and especially in
search of rivers, or sources of rivers, flowing from the west of the
mountains.

"In summer, 1838, I a.scended to and established a trading post at
Dease's Lake (since then a gold field), and soon after, in July, I crossed
the mountain and came to the heacl-waters of a river, which with a
party of two Indian boys and a half-breed I followed ifor some time,
and came to a tributary which we crossed on Terror Bridge, a very
shaky structure over a foaming torrent. About 16 miles beyond the
bridge we came on a very large camp of Indians assembled there for
the double purpose of catching salmon, which al>ounded in the river,
and of trading with the then notable chief ' Shakes,' who ascended
there from Fort Highfield, a large trading station of the Russians, es-
tablished at the mouth of the river, on the Pacifi .• coast. From these
Indians I was glad to learn that the name of the river was ' Stikene.'

" I gave notes to some of the Indians, to be delivered ut any Hudson
Bay Co. post, relating the result of my discovery thus far, and as the
object of my trip was now attained I wished to retrace my steps without
delay ; but it was with no little difficulty that we got away from the
camp of the savages. We owed our safety to the Nahany chief, and
the ti ibe we came first in contact with in the morning. This discovery,
which made no small noise at the time, led in a great measm-e to the
Hudson Bay Co. leasing from the Russians a stretch of country along
the coast, for purposes of trade."

The Hudson Bay Co. first established Fort Mumford, 60 miles up
the river fron) Fort Wrangell, at the supposed Russian boundary line,
and Fort O'lenorn, 126 miles up river, at the head of canoe navigatiim.
When the miners came with steamboats, fire-arms, and blasting powder,
game was frightened away, and the Indians found more lucrative pur-
suits than hunting and trapping. In 1878 the company abandoned the
river posts, the mines failed, and the region relapsed into a wildci-ness.

The scenery of Stah-Keena, the Great River, will revive the for-
tunes of the region when increasing tourist travel makes it better
known. Prof. John Muir, who canoed its length in 1879, epitomized its
finest reach as "a Yoseraite 100 miles long." Three hundred living gla-

THE 8TIKINE RIVER.

ciers drain directly into the Rtikine, and Prof. Muir counted 100 from
his canoe. The river is very shallow at the mouth, with a current
run ling 6 miles an hour, Itut in the upper canons the current is ter-
rific. Steamers were withdrawn from the river in 1883, but a relic
continued to navigate until 1891, although canoe travel was and is still
more satisfactory to those who can give a fortnight to the excursion.
In busy times, when all the standing-room was taken on these river-
boats, and they tied to the banks each night to give passengers room
to sleep, it was a 3 days' trip up to Glenora l)y steam, and 10 days in
canoe. Returning, the steamers made the 150 miles in 8 or 12 hours,
the machinery reversed much of the time, to restrain the boat from
going entirely with the mad current.

Itinerary of the Stikine River.

The first object of interest is the Popoff^ or Little Glacier, 10 miles
above Point Rothsay. At the Big Bend, a few miles above, the Iskoot
River opens a valley southward, its course defined by the sharp needle
peaks of the Glacier Kange. The natives, following the Iskoot caiions
for 50 miles, reach a ta)>le-land from wliirh they descend the Nass
River to Fort Simpson, besides scenery of the wildest description,
peaks, precipices, and glaciers that defy Zormatt climbers, the Iskoot
region is a great preserve of big game. Grizzly, cinnamon, and black
bears, mountain goat and mountain sheep, deer and elk, roam undis-
turbed, grouse abound, and mosquitoes surpass in numbers and vo-
racity any others of their kind. The same condition as to game and
insects exists all along the Stikine.

The Great, or Orlebar Glacier, 20 miles above the lAttle Gla-
cier, and 40 miles from Fort Wrangel, is often visited in chartered
steamers, when mail steamers are delayed at the latter port for a
whole day, and offers an interesting excursion. The glacier descends
through a mountain gateway less than a mile in width, and spreads out
in a broad, rounded, fan slope measuring 3 miles around its rim. A
terminal moraine half a mile in width lies between it and the river, a
place of sloughs and quicksands cut by the milk-white Ice Water
River, and scores of streams through which the pilgrim wades to the
foot of ice-cliffs rising abniptly 500 and 700 ft. The glacier slopes
back easily and disappears in fine curves behind mountain spurs. Its
surface is much broken, but it has not been explored nor its motion
recorded. Two young Russian officers once came down from Sitka to

THE 8TIKINE RIVER.

explore this glacier to its source, but they never returned with its
secrets. Old miners and river traders say that it has shrunk and retreated
much since those good old days when " the boys," with their bags of
flour gold, and nuggets, used to congregate at linck^s Bar (Cho<mctte's)
on the opposite bank, and, while boiling themselves in the /lot LSpringa
baths, contemplated the great ice stream over the way. A smaller g!a>
cier faces the (Jrent Glacier on the Hot Springs side, and there is an
Indian tradition to the elTcct that these two glaciers were once united,
and the river ran through in an arched tunnel. To And out whether it
led out to the sea, the Indians determined to send two of their number
through the tunnel, and witli fine Indian logic they chose the oldest
members of their tribe to make the perilou.s voyage into the ice moun-
toin. arguing that they might die very soon anyhow. The venerable
Indians shot the tunnel, and, returning with the great news of a
clear passage-way to the sea, were held in the highest esteem forever
after.

Near a bend in the river known to the miners as the DeviPa Elbov\
the Mud or Dirt Glacier pours through a defile and spreads along
the river bank like a high terrace for 3 miles. Next, the Flood Gla-
cier descends from a hidden ticve. Every summer something gives way
in the glacial fastness and a flood bursts out with a roar, the river
rises several feet and races with a swift current, while the unknown
reservoir empties itself. Caution has kept miners and Indians away,
and no scientist has investigated to see how and where the ice spirits
build their dam. Beyond it is the dreaded Little Canon^ a gorge a
half mile long, narrowing to a width of 100 ft., where ascending
steamboats struggle for nearly an hour before they can emerge from
the frightful defile. Steamers often tie up for days, waiting for the
furious current to slacken. Next is the KloochmarCs or Woman^s
Canon, where the noble Stikine, exhausted by paddling or tracking
his canoe through the precediiii; canon, leaves the cares of 'ts naviga-
tion entirely to his wife. Here he crosses the backbone of the JAim
or Sawback Range, and here are summer camps by that fine salmon
stream the Clearwater. The Biq Ripple, or the Stikine Rapidit, otfer
the last difficulties for canoemeu, and then the country opens out into
more level stretches, and a dry and wholly different climate causes
Sfiaken^a, Carpenter's, and Fiddhv's Bars, where men picked up for-
tunes 30 years ago, to scorch in dry summer heats.

At Glenorn, 540 ft. above the sea, steamers discharge their cargoes

THK 8TIKINE RIVKK.

and start on the wild Hwccp down the river. Canoes can ascend an-
other 12 miles to tlie mouth of Telegraph Crtrk, where the surveyors
decided that the Western Union wires sliould cross, and where tlie
Great ('anon of tlie Stil\ine l)e{^ins, n nu-ky j^orpe 5(1 miles long that
no craft can traverse, but which iu winter offers a level ice highway
and a snow-shoer's shoi-t cut towards Cassiar.

i »

K 4

MINING HKCJIONS OF THE STIKINE.

II. H. Co. apfents disclaim any previous knowledge of the existence
of pold along the Stikine River, and deny any exclianpc of gohi dust
ounce for ounce for lead bullets as with the natives on the Fraser. In
1861, Pierre Chociuettc and Carpenter his partner di-covercd gold on a
barnear (ilenora. Camps (piickly dotted the river's length, and in 1873
richer fiehls were discovered in the Cassiar regions, at the head-waters
of the river, by Thil)ert and McCulloch, two tnippers who had made
their way overland from Minnesota. Ten thousand miners reached
the diggings in 1S74, and the yield was estimated at S1,'"*",<>"0. Tlie
new camps were 30i» miles from Fort Wrangcll and 150 miles from
(ilenora. The centre of trade was at Laketown, on Dease Creek, near
Dease Lake. The Omineca region at the head of Peace and Skcena
Kivers was deseited. Four ocean steamers ran regulaily from Victoria,
transferring to Six IJivci steamers at Fort Wrangcll. Freights
from the latter place to the mines ranged from .s'JO to .>?8() and .*?16(>
per ton, the last half of the transit being by paek-mules or on men's
backs over the roughest mountain trails known. While the mines
were paying, For* Wrangcll was the winter resort of the miners, and
the liveliest as well as the most important town in Alaska. Travel
turned inland in Febniary, miners travelling by snow-shoes and with
hand-sleds on the ice until well into March. Active work began in
May, and the freezing of the sluices in September closed the season.
VVhen the placers were exhausted and machinery was needed to work
the quartz claims, the miners left. Chinese for a long time worked
abandoned river bars and Cassiar placers.

The returns of the Cassiar mining district, as given by the British
Columbian Minister of Mines, show tlie quick decrease in the bullion
vield :

YEAR.

Numlwr of
inineri.

2,000

800

^.-iOO

1,200

" i',866

Oolii product.

YEAR.

Number of ^old product,
iiiiiit rs. "^

1874

$1,000,000
8:W,000
6.'>«,474
499,830
519,?J0
405,200
297,850
198,900

i 1882

i $182,800

1875

j 188:3

1,000 119,000

187«

1884

101,<'.00

1877

18K'?

i 1886

' 1887

50,600

1878

63,(510

1879

60,485

1880

1881

i $4,886,009

SUMNKR STRAIT TO PRINCE FREDERICK SOUND. 73

THE INTERNATIONAL BOUNDARY LINE ON THE STIKINE.

The leasing of the Thirty-mile Strip to the II. B. Co. did away with
the necessity of precisely marking the boundary line on the river, and
the Russians felt no concern in the matter until the gold discoveries of
1802. It was provided in the Kussian American Company's lease that
all mineral lands should belong to the crown ; and the Czar, who had
been brooding much over the mineral possibilities of his American
province, ordered Admiral Popoflf to send a corvette from Japan to see
if the British miners were on Russian soil. Prof. William P. Blake,
the geologist, accompanied Captain Bassarguine on the Ryitda from
Hakodate in 1863, and his report, with the Russian officers' maps, were
the first authentic geographic and geologic information. Since their
survey five different places have been designated as the boundary,
ranging from the Little Glacier to the crossing of the Sawback Range.
The report of the Dawson-McConnell survey of the river is included in
the Annual Report of the Geological Survey of Canada for 1887. The
report of the Special U. S. Treasury Agent, W. G. Morris, in Extra
Senate Document No. 59 — Forty-fifth Congress, third session, gives a
full account of the attempts to determine some limit during Cassiar
days and the necessity for some settlement of the question.

,800
,000

,000
,()10
,48.5

,009

From Sumner Strait to Prince Frederick Sound via

Wrangell Narrows.

Snmner 8trait extends 80 miles from the mouth of the Stikine
River to the open ocean, and on its N. shore, 19 miles from Fort
Wrangell, a narrow river of the sea leads to Prince Frederick
Sound, the next great transverse channel in the archipelago. Wran-
gell Strait, more commonly known as Wrangell Narrows, is 19
miles in length, at times not 100 yards in width, and in the course of
its windings presents features that entitle it to being one of the most
famous landscape channels on the regular tourist route. Vancouver's
men entered its mouth, but, believing it another inlet, turned back. It
was long considered navigable only for light-dratjght vessels at the
highest tide, and Government transports went outside from Fort
Wrangell to Sitka, until the perils of Cape Ommatteif^ the fogs,
storms, and rrents of the ocean induced Captain R. H. Meade to sur-
vey a way for the U. S. S. Saginaw, in 1869. Captain J. B. Coghlan,

U. S. N., voluntarily surveyed and buoyed the channel in 1884, and
6

74 SUMNER STRAIT TO PRINCE FREDERICK fiOUND.

later the Cuast Survey made Bounding^. The tender of the Thirteenth
Lighthouse District, wliich inchidca all of the United States shores be-
tween the Columbia River and Ciipe Spencer, inspects and replaces the
buoyri each summer.

The touriHt should not miss any part of this scenic passage; the
near shores, the forested heights, and the magnificent range of peaks
around the Stikincs delta, composing some of the noblest landscapes he
will see. The stinset eiTects in the broad channels at either end are
renowned, and tlie possessor of a Claude Lorraine glass is the most
fortunate of tourists. He who has seen the sunrise lights in the nar-
rows has seen tlie best of the marvellous atmospheric effects and colour
displays the matchless coast can offer. It is a place of resort for
eagles, whose nests may be seen in many tree-tops, and is a nursery
for young gulls who float like myriad tufts of down in the still reaches.
A hedge of living green rises fr«)m the water's edge, every spruce twig
festooned with paler green mosses. At low tide, broad bands of
russet sea-weed {algce) frame the islets and border the shores, and
fronds, stems, and orange heads of the giant kelp float in the intensely
green waters. The tides rushing in from either end meet off Finger
Pointy whose two red spar buoys are prominent in the exciting naviga-
tion. The tide-fall varies from 14 to 23 ft., and salmon, entering with
the tide, turn aiiide at the red spar buoys, clear an islet, manoeuvre to
the foot of a fall, leap its H ft. at high tide, and swim to a mountain
lake.

Along Priuce Frederick Sound*

Prince Frederick Sound won its name from the meeting of
Whidbey and Johnstone on its shores on the birthday of U. R. H.
Frederick, Duke of York, in 1794. Vancouver lay at anchor at the
time in Port Conclusion, just within Cape Ommaney, while these two
lieutenants made their final search for some opening on the mainland
coast. Landing on the Kupreanoff shore, they took formal possession
of the country, and dealt out double grog to their men. This ended
the actual exploration, the fruitless search for the mythical straits of
Anian, and **■ with no small portion of facetious mirth " they remem-
bered that they had sailed from England on the 1st day of April to
find the Northwest Passage. These lieutenants made plain to their
chief the " uncommonly awful " and ** horribly magnificent " character
of the scenery along the Prince Frederick shore ; and Vancouver began
the lavish use of adjectives which is in vogue in Alaskan narratives to-day.

ft ;

•3

SUMNER STRAIT TO I'RINTE KRKDKRICK SorND. < 5

:>
^

k
3

The Devirn Thumb, a dark apire rising l.rtoo ft. from tlie liiii of
an amphitheatre 7,(HM) ft. above the Hea, was named hy Captniii Meade
beeause of ltd reseniblanee to a HJinihir thumb or monolith on tlie
Greenland ooaj^t. This great landmark shows from the upjier half of
Wnntgdl Narrows, and looms frouj every ((iiarter as the ship boxes the
compass in its varied course. It is a finger-board to the tourist's /fV.*/
Alnnknn (fincicr which is a prominent feature in the long panorama along
the X. wall of Prince Frederick Sound. This glacier, mimed I'uftirmn
for the late Carlisle Patterson, chief of the I'oast Survey, pours over
and down a great slope, showing a beautifully blue and rumpled front.
In Vancouver's time it droppe<l icebergs from the clifTs to the water.
A fine waterfall decorates the front of //or« CIIJ'h at the foot of the
glacier.

The Thunder Bay C; lacier.

The first tide-water glacier on the coast, latitude fi{\° 5o N., is
hidden at the end of Ilutii * {Thunder) Ihiii, and sends out the myriad
bergs that sparkle along the sound. It is pictures(piely set, debouch-
ing grandly from a steep canon cutting at a right angle from the head of
the bay, and the walls are forested close to the glacier's i'il^f^. The llulli
ia a pure white, deeply crevassed ice-stream half a mile in width ; and
the ice-eliflTs, rising 100 and 200 ft. above the waters, are always top.
pling and crashing with the glacier's rapid advance. The ))ay is seldom
navigable, because of the ice-floes, which are either packed solidly or
whirling with the tides. San Francisco ice-sh.ips loaded from this gla-
cier as early as 1853, and halibut schooners often put into the sound
for ice to pack their catch. Lying at f>i\° 50' N. latitude, it shows all
the features of a Greenland glacier, but its wonders were uidieralded
until John Muir visited it in 1879. The Stikines claim to remember a
time when the glacier reached nearly to the mouth of the bay, and Van-
couver's description supports them.

GLACIAL THEOUY OF THE NATIVKH.

The Stikines, hearing the mysterious roars and crashes from within
this bay, believed it the home of the Thunder Bird, and llutli's rough
syllables stand for that mythical creature, the flapping of whose wings
causes the rolling noises heard. All Tlingits believe that in the )>egin-
ning the mountains were living creatures, grindly embodied spirits,
whom they long worshipped. The glaciers are the children of the

* Since named by the Coast Survey Lc Conte Bay and Le Conte
Glucier.

70 8UMNKK HTRAIT TO l'RIN(^K FKKDKUICK HOUND.

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mountaiiiH, and these parciita hold thciii in their arms, dip their feet in
tlie Heu, cover them witli deep snowH in tlie winter, and Hoatter earth
and roikH over them to ward ofT tlic siinimer xun. J^itth in tlieir gen-
eral name for ice, and itn wliiHpered Mildlants HUggest the Tlingits*
horror of col(i, even thnir dull imaginations conceiving a iiell of ice — a
place of everlasting cold as the future state of those buried in the
ground rather than cremated. SiUh tmt Yehk is their ice spirit, an
invisilde power of evil, whose chill breath is death, who mauifesta
himself in the keen, pecidiiir wind blowing over glaciiil reaches ; whoso
voice is hoard in the angry roar of i ailing bergs, and in the hiss, the
crackle, and tinkle of dinging ice-tlo<>?i. He hurls down bergs in his
wrath, he tosses them to and fro, crushes canoes, and washes the land
with great waves. When the ice-wind dies away and the glacier's fnmt
is still, t-'itth too Yfhk sleeps or roams under ice lultyrinths, planning
further destruction. The natives speak in whispers, for fear of rousing
or ofTcMxIing this evil one, and refrain from striking his subjects — the
icebergs — with their canoe-paddles. When they must nnke a journey
across a glacier, they implore the mercy of SHth too Yehk witli much
big medicine and incantations, speak softly, tread lightly, and neither
deKlen or ofTend it with crumb or odour of their food. The hair-seals
are the children of the glacier, an<] proof against all this magic. They
may ride on the ice-cakes with impunity, and in under the IlutWs and
KInmma (inttti's (Taku's) front the man-faced seals live, terrible
creatures whose spell can only be broken by one's pouring some fresh
water into the sea.

All the flats between Hutli and Point Jl'xjhjidd are visited by flocks
of ducks that offer sportsmen unrivalled opportunities.

The Bnh'd Glacier shows its upper slopes just west of the Patterson
Glacier, but the finer view of its full front and long reaches is obtained
from Thomas Bay, which, commanding views of other glaciers, of
waterfalls und sple.did clifTs, has been much extolled as the scenic gem
of the sound.

Cape Faiishawe is the great landmark of the sound, a storm-
king and cloud-compeller that, fronting to southwestward, gathers to it
all the storms that drift and draught in from Cape Ommancy. Canoes
arc storm-bound for weeks, and ships labour heavily to round this
promontory when the great winter winds blow ; but in summer the
waters ripple away to clear emerald and pearly reaches. The sound is a
favourite breeding-ground of whales, and in these safe, deep waters one
may see the leviathans frisking, and infant spoutcrs taking their first
lessons. They were once snapped in the act by Lieutenant Niblack,
whose ready camera had already caught the flying eagle and the leaping
salmon.

«'

SUMNER STRAIT TO I'RINCK FRKOKRICK

SOUND. 77

Kuprcanoff* and Kaiu IfllnndN, The Lniid of Kakrn.

LoHrt is known of KaprcanufTiuKl Kiiiu Islaiidn — the I.nn«l of
Kakes — than of the ottivrx of .he ari'hi|>('tH^o, Iktuusc of the Imtl
name «)f that tribe hihabititi^ them. The Kakes fiij^litenetl Van-
couver'fl n)en by their manners, and arc dreaded l).v other Tlin^its, wlio
say tliat they are outeast Sitkans.

They were the most ireaded of all the " nortliern Indinns'' who
devastated tlie lower eoast. In lHr»5 several eanoo-loads were driven
from plaee to place in I*ii^et Sound, and ordered to /o home hy the
r. S. S. A/(UHachitMet(tf, which served a Hnal iioti<'e to i', 'v cnciniped
on the spit op|H)sitc Port (jamhle's mills, and then opeiu <i fir.'. The
Kake ehief and several of his m<'n were killed, and tic MiiHKitehnitrtt*
took the Kakes as far as Victoria, and once moi, told 'hem to ^o.
Two years later a war party of nearly a thtnij^und univcd ut the soi:!!d,
and, landint; o-,. Whidhey Inland intheni^ht, called out and shotCohmel
Kby, coIIccuji of customs. They moiaited his head nitd tliofc of three
ot!i»*r whites on poles in their canoes, and paddh il away in triumph.
No retaliation was attempted, but some years later Captain Hod, of the
licavcr, visited a Kake villaf^e, and boufjht Colonel Kl)y'> scalp for six
blankets, six handkerchiefs, and two bottles of mm. In iHtWi the
Kakes seized the schooner Royal Chorllr, anchored near a Kuiv vi'.l.ijre,
murdered the crew, and scuttled the ship. The fiiidinj? of a few relics
durin<r the Kake war of 18t)9 cleared the Jnystery of that craft. They
divided honours with the Ilaidas and Stikines in piracy and murder
down the coast, but were looked down upon by both those sup4'rior
people. The famous "Kake War" of lM«»y ar<»se from the Kakes
murdering two Sitka traders in revenge for the shooting of a Kake by
a Sitka sentry. Captain Meade took the U. S. S. Stujiunw and destroyed
three villages by fire and shell.

These three villages were in bays on the northern end of the island,
and it was many years before the Kakes attempted to rebuild them.
They roamed the archipelago as waifs and free-lances, creating trouble
wherever they drew up their eanoes. Their visits were dreaded by
natives and whites. A few of the better-disposed Kakes were toler-
ated at Killisnoo for a time, btit their reputation effectually kept
fishermen and mineral prospectors away from their shores. The mili-
tary census of 1809 estintated the inhabitants of Kuiu and KupreanotT
Islands at 2,<m»0. Petroff's census of IHHO number^ iliem .".tis. The
enumeration of 1890 gives but TM\ Kakes, and notes but the two vil-
lages of Port Ellijt on Kuiu and Port Jinrrie on Kupreanoff Island.
In 1891 a Government school was established at f/atnittoit Buy at the
north entrance of Keku Strait, and in January, 189:;j, the teacher, C.
II. Edwards, was killed by two men who came in a small sloop, as he
believed, to sell liquor to the Kakes.

Keku Strait, connecting Sumner Strait and Prince Frederick Sctund,
was long suspected to afford a safer and more direct ship-channel than
Wrangel Narrows, and more scenic beauty is claimed for it.

CAPE FANSHAWE TO TAKU INLET.

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Kniii Island is the most extraordinary arrangement of forest-
land evei- scattered upon Alaskan waters. Map-makers' favourite but
unpleasant comparison is to a mass of entrails surrounded by flies. The
island is over (»0 miles in length and 30 miles across at its widest point,
but it is such a mass of peninsulas, isthnuises, and inlets fringed with
tiny islets that the ordinary statement of dimensions cannot describe
it. Its shores are least surveyed of any in the archipelago, and mail
steamers have only touched at the cannery at Vancouver's Point Ellin
in the Jioy of Pilldrs. Dense groves of yellow cedar may be seen on
its shores, and in both 1874 and 187t) the Alaska Ltimber and Ship-build-
ing Company prayed Congress to grant it or to sell it 100,000 acres of
timber lands on Kuiti /s/and, binding itself to establish mills and
vards, and build a vessel of l,2oO tons burden within two vears. The
•"lanchise was refused, and Kuiu remains a wilderness.

From Gape Fanshawe to Taku Inlet, Shucks and Sum

Bum Bays.

Aft. Witulfiain, 2,5(10 feet in height at the X. entrance of Windham
Bill/, marks the beginning of StejJicns\s PaH^age, 25 miles above Cape
Fmishavc. The mining-camp of Shucks, the Shuk'hte of the Tlingits,
lies at the end of Windhnni Bai/, 8 miles from the entrance.

Gold was discovered at this place in 18*75, and in the centennial
year 30 miners were at work. In 1871* Professor John Muir visited
the camp, and the miners i)ut him on the trail of more glacial game
than he had anticipated. After the Juneau discoveries Shucks was
al»andoned for ten years, when a con)])any took up the basin and began
hydraulic mining on a large scale. Their i)ipe-iine and flume lead to
the [^nclr Sdrii BknIh, l,ono ft. above the bay, whence it is a short
climb to the crest of the divide between Shucks Bay and the southern
arm of Sum Dttm liaij. The higher meadows, thickly carpeted with
dwarf laurel, violets, daisies, anemones, buttercui)s, lilies of the valley,
and that I'ttyal flower, the black Kamchatka lily {FritiUaria Kamnchat-
kriisis), aie rich Ijotanical ground, and to the sportsman the region pre-
sents the greatest attractions. These are the chosen pastures of the
motuitain-goat ; and the nxmntain-sheep, keeping usually to the second
and interior ranges, comes to the coast between Cope Fanshawe and
Tain.

Shucks is the accepted site of the " Lost Rocker," the standard
romance necessary to each nnning region. In that dim time of mys-
tery and fable " before the transfer," two Stikine miners found pockets
of nuggets in a lone bay near Cape Fanshawe. They were attacked by
Indians, and one miner killed. The other, left for dead beside his
rocker, managed to crawl and paddle away to a settlement, and died

CAPE FANSIIAWE TO TAKU IN LET,

while describing the phioe where the roeker f\ill of nu<:iifls was left.
For a quarter of a century prospectors have searched for the phantom
rocker. Jo Juneau admits of luivin^ thou<rht of it, and the tradition,
dear to the Ahiskan heart, has been dramatized, and every season
"The Lost Rocker" draws crowds to the Juneau Opera-llouse.

Sum Dum, tlic bay whose h)nf;-drawn Tlingit syllaldes express
in sound and n)eaninp tlie noise of falling; ice, was nanie<l Ihtlkham
Biifi by Vancouver. The broad bay is seen from tlie steamer route
with the great Sum Dum (Uacivr shtpinir down from the snov-liehls
beyond Mt. Ifdrrmm. It divides into the Emlicott Arm, extending
25 miles in a southeasterly direction, and the Tr<ii-ii Arm cutting N.
and then E., some 22 miles alt(»gcther. It is a great glacial trough,
soundings giving no bottom at 2(t() fathoms; is set with pinnacle
rocks and reefs, and contains but one anchorage
and floating ice further oppose navigation.

Strong tidal currents

No large steamers enter the bay, and Juneau launches proceed with
extreme caution. There are three small tide-water glaciers in inlets of
Enuicott Arm. One of these caiions is known as F<>r'/\s 'J't rror, in
honour of the draughtsnian of the Ptittcrsou, who rowed in at slack
water to look for ducks. The tide turniMl with a roar, atul the H-mile
caiion, less than 100 yards wide in places, was a stretch of rapids and
whirlpools in which small bergs from the glacier raced and ground to-
gether. The sportsman was a prisoner for six hours, when he was
abie to make his escape with the last of the ebb-tide. There are
many such reversible cataracts within the bay, and gloomy canons
that only need their Hugo, their Verne, and their Dore to inunortalize
them.

The most remarkable glacial exploit on this coast was that of Cap-
tain J. W. White, U. 8. H. M., who took the Wii/rnidn into the bay
while on an exiiloiing cruise in 18<)H. Seeing a gicat arched opening
in the face of one tide-w ater glacier, he steered his gig into a vast blue
grotto, and was rowed loO ft. down a crystallini- eon iilor. The colouring
of roof and walls and water was n)iirvelloi's, the air was pure, palpitant
sap|)hire, and in the shadowy indigo aUove at the end the bcjatmcn
poured out libafions to the ice spirits. They eiiiiTged safely, unsuspect-
ing the perils liuy had braved.

The finest scenery of all is reported in Tiacy Arm, and the camp
in Koariuff Inlet was visited by Prof. John Muir in 1879. He found
two splendid tide-water glaciers in that magniliccnt fiord, on' a mile
and the other a half mile wide, ana common Sw iss or Alpine glaeicrs
fronting on terminal moraines filled every ravine.

Ti. ' Sum Dum mining camp was deserted for a decade after Ju-
neau's discoveries, but recently the claims have been relocated, and a
quartz-mill will do its feeble grinding beside the primeval mills of the
irods.

CAPE FAN8IIAWE TO TAKU INLET.

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Port SneUiKhom gives promise of importance, when its ledges of
gold and silver are worked ; and prospectors report the Sped River
canons at the head of the buy as rivalling any others in point of
scenerv.

In TaJcu Harbour^ or Locality Inlet, as Sir George Simpson named
it, the remains of the old II. I/. Co.'s Fort Dnrhoni may be seen. The
Takus drove the traders away at the end of three years, and the com-
pany secured their furs by annual visits of their steamers. The Takus
several times seized these ships and loott-d them, and were much
dreaded by all the whites. Most mercenary of all Tlin^its and sharp-
est of bargainers, the Takus arc called "the Alaska Jews," and in view
of the financial advantages resulting did not oppose the coming of
miners. They were never a totem-pole people ; their villages are un-
interesting, and they have too quickly assumed the outer hal>it.- ')f the
whites. They were estimated as numbering 50(» in 1800, but in 1880
only 209 Takus were counted; and in 181)0 they had fallen to 214,
with their largest village at Juneau.

Tjiku Mountain, 2,oOO ft. high, a most symmetrical and densely
forested cone, an J (Jrand Island, l,r)0(^ ft, in height, are the two most
conspicuous landmarks. Above them is the Taku Open^ a water cross-
roads, where Stephens's Passage, Taku Inlet, and Gm^lhicuu Chan-
nel come together — a broad and treacherous reach where canoes are
threatened by winds from the four quarters. Taku Inlet is the cradle
of squalls, and Taku Open their playground. In winter, fierce w'dla-
wawa or " woolies " sweep from the heights, beat the wa ers to foam,
and drive the spray in dense, blinding sheets ; but in summer it smiles
and ripples in perfect peace, sparkles with little icebergs, and is a
point of magnificent views.

Taku Inlet nnd the Taku dilacicrs.

Taku Inlet extends 18 miles in a N. E. direction from Stephens's
Passage, widening to a basin where the Taku River, a tide-water, and
an Alpine glacier discharge their floods.

It is one of the show placos on the Alaska coast, and is regularly
visited by excursion steamers. The Taku (i lacier was christened the
Schnhc Glacier in 1883, in honour of Paul Schulzc, of Tacoma, and in
1891 was renamed the Fonter Glacier, in honour of the then Secretary
of the Treasury ; but locally to geologists, tourists, and navigators it
remains the Taku. The native name is iSitth Klunu Gntla^ " the

CAPE FANSIIAWE TO TAKII INLET.

spirits' home." It is Sitth too Yelik's, the lee spirit's, very palace of
delight, and the fahlcd man-faced seals with their human hands live
and frolic in its clear hlue grottoes and crystal dells. The ice-stream,
a mile in width, fills its canons from wal? to wall, and its squarely
broken front rises from 10(» to 200 ft. above the water. It is one of
the purest and cleanest glaciers, without medial or apparent lateral
moraines, and deeply fissured and crevassetl for the 5 miles of its
course which is visible from the water Because of its purity, ships
prefer to fill their ice-boxes in this basin, and the process of lassoing
the icebergs and hoisting them on board is an interesting feature in
ship life.

On the north shore of the inlet there is a large glacier of the Swiss
type, two ice-streams joining and sweeping in a broad fan slope to a
terminal moraine a mile in width. A forest has grown upon the west-
ern edge of the moraine, and the sandy level is cut by many water-
courses and covered with beds of crimson cpilobium. A landing is
sometimes made, and tourists are given opportunity to visit thiij glacier,
which the natives call S'ltth Kitdi-srhlc, the Spaniards' (ilueier. The
Kadischle was christened the Norris Ci lacier in ISSO, for Dr. Basil
Norris, U. S. N., and in 1H'.>1 was named the Wimloin Ghicirt\ in honour
of the late Seeietary of the Treasury. To tourists and scientists it is
most commonly known as the Norris. It is more broken than either
the Mer de Glace or the Aletsch (Jlacier, and is six times the width of
the former and three times the width of the latter at the last gateway,
where it spreads out into the great rounded front.

Whidbey and his men were doubtless the first whites, the supposed
Spaniards, to enter the inlet, August 10, 17'.>4. From Vancouver's ac-
count, the rapid retreat of these glaciers may be estimated. " From
the shores of this basin a compact body of ice extended some distance
nearly all around ; and the adjacent region was composed of a close
connected continuation of the lofty range of frozen mountains, whose
sides, almost perpendicular, were formed entirely of rock, excepting elo.^e
to the water-side, where a few scattered dwarf pine-trees found suilieient
soil to vegetate in ; above these the mountains were wrapped in undis-
solving frost and snow. From the rugged gullies in their sides were
projected immense bodies of ice that reached perpendieidarly to the
surface of the water in the basin, which admitted of no lamling-place
for boats, but exhibited as dreary and inhospitable an aspect as the
imagination can possibly suggest." The Takus claim that their fathers
remembered a time when the Kadisehle (Xorri.s-Windom) (Jlaeier broke
off into the sea, and that the Kadischle came at tluit time.

None of these glaciers have been explored or mapped, nor their mo-

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CAPE FAN8HAWE TO TAKU INLKT.

tioii inoiiHured, although the basin is the most accessible and convenient
place tor a geologist's sunnner cain[). John Muir says that he only
"glanced" at the Takii glaciers in 187'.». In 1H81* Viscrmnt de la
Sabbatiere and his comrades of the French Al[)ine Club canijied here,
but mainly as sportsmen. In ISUO the Coast Survey charted the
waters.

The 7aku 7i^//vr, leading to the interior, was known to the H. li. Co.
and its head-water.^^ were carefully explored by the Western Union
Telegraph Company's parties, 18»»r»-'07. Prospectors have followed the
Taku since, reporting it navigalde for canoes for 00 miles, but plagued
with mos(piitoes. In iH'.tl Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka and Dr. C.
Willard Hayes ascended to the head-waleis and crossed to an affluent of
the Yukon, by which they reacheil Fort Selkiik and jiroved the exist-
ence of an easy route to the northern mines.

The Harris Miiiiiii; District* — Jniicau and its Vicinity.

C«astineau Channel, named for an old II. B. Co. ship, which
was named for the Ciastineau River near Quebec, Canada, separates
Tkmjhiss hliind fiom the mainland above the Takti Open. It narrows
from a mile and a quarter at the entrance o a half m"le abreast the
Treadwell wharf, and the precipitous mountains on the eastern side are
over 2,000 ft. in height, with many cascades slipjjing down those vel-
vety green precipices with continuous roar.

Juneau, the largest town in the Territory and the centre of mining
operations, is situated on the north or mainland shore of Gastineau
Channel, 10 miles above its entrance. It has a population of 1,500,
which in winter is largely increased by the miners who come in from
distant claims and prospecting tours. It has a court-house, several
small hotels and lodging-houses, 3 churches, 3 schools, a ? >spital, an
opera-house, a weekly newspaper, a volunteer fire brigade, a militia com-
pany, a brass band, and, in 1891, 22 saloons. A village of Taku Indians
adjoins it on the E. below the wharf, and an Auk village claims the flats
at the mouth of (Jold Creek. A few interesting graves are on the high
ground back of the Auk village, many ornamented with totemic carv-
ings, and hung with valuable dance-blankets and other offerings to the
departed spirits which no white dares disturb. The town-site covers the
elope of Chicken Rhlgc, separated fi"om Bald Mountain by Gold Creek:
Numbered avenues running parallel with the beach terrace the slope,
and are intersected by Gold, Lincoln, Seward, and Harris Streets.
At Third and Seward Streets is the heart of the town, and the Indians
hold a daily open-air fish, berry, vegetable, and curio market there, in
addition to the curio market on the wharf on steamer davs. There are

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CAPE FANSIIAWE TO TAKU INLET.

several curio shops tUoug Water or Front Street, and on Seward Street,
and the finest display of seal, otter, beaver, boar, fox, wolf, mink, er-
mine, squirrel, and eagle skins will be found at the largest trading
stores. A path leads from the top of Seward Street to the Auk village
and to the cemetery across (Jold Creek.

The eminence between the town and the Auk village is known as
Capitol Ilill, and Juneau citizens are contident that the future Legisla-
ture of Alaska will convene on that hill. Jtmeau miners wrested from
Congress the few political advantages the Tcrritoiy enjoys. They once
sent a delegate to Washington, and even had a clause moving the capi-
tal from Sitka to Juneau considered in Congress. There is bitter ri-
valry between the capital and metropolis.

In 1S7{* Indians brought bits of gold(|uartz from (Jastineau Channel
to Captain L. A. Beardslee, commanding the U. S. S. Jamcstonui at Sitka.
In 1880 Mr. N. A. Fuller, a Sitka merchant, " grul)-8taked " Joseph Ju-
neau and Richard Harris and sent them to search " the largest of three
creeks lying between the Auk Glacier and Taku Inlet." They beached
their cunoe on October 1st, and broke rich specimens from the " Fuller
the First " claim in the Basin at the head of the creek three da} s later.
Returning to the Iteach, they held a n»eeting, with Joseph Juneau in the
chair, organized the " Harris Mining District of Alaska," and made Rich-
ard Harris recorder. When the discovery was nuide known, there was
a stampede for '' the Taku Camp," and hundreds reached Miners' Core
that winter in order to be on the ground in the spring. A guard of
marines from the U. S. S. J(tmentown maintained order during the first
year, but when withdrawn, an era of lawlessness succeeded, which was
slightly quelled by the vigilance committee of 1883-'84. With no land-
laws, and no Government recognition or protection, the miners could not
effect much until the passage of the organic act, in 1884, gave them
title to mineral claims, since which the region has rapidly progressed.

The new camp was named Pilzbury, for the first assayer who came ;
then Fliptown, as a miner's joke ; next Rockwell, for the marine officer
of the U. S. S. Jamtxtown ; fourthly, it was called Ilarrisburg; and
fifthly, Juneau. This last name was formally adopted at a miners'
meeting held in May, 188*2, and at the same time all Chinese were or-
dered to leave the camp. Theie were anti-Chinese riots in 1886;
Chinese cabins were blown up by dynamite, and the Chinese in town
and at the mines on the island were driven on board a schooner and set
adrift without provisions. The town-site was surveved and patented in
1892.

The Silver-Bow Basin Mines.

The mines in the 8ilver-Bow Basin, at the head of Gold Creek,
are reached by a well-built waggon-road, 3^ miles in length. The old
trail may be seen zig-?.ngging across the hillside behind the beach, but

CAPE FANSIIAWE TO TAKU INLKT.

V'-
(■! ■

i' :

i i

?'. i

.:i

Js rto ovci'f^rown on tho Uasin side that iM use is iinpriu'ticahle. There
in a 1011(1 alonp citlier side of tlio creek, that on the sontliem or Juneau
wide afTordinf; the finest views of tlio opposite Voseniite walls.

Snouslidc (iii/fh, on this Juneau side, usually hars the pathway with
deep snow-banks throughout the summer. "Coulters," or the Taku
Union mill, is half-way up the eanon, and on the northern side a wire
tramway brinjis buckets of (tre from a claim hifjh <m Ihild Mountain,
p.monjc^ bryanthus meadows where the mouutain-};(»at browses. (Jranite
Creek, a clear blue moiuitain stream, joins (i(;ld Creek at the entrance
to the Silver-How Uasin, which a party of Montana miners named for
their last camp in that State. This deep bowl in the ujountains has
\on<^ received the (Ubrix ground from the perpendii-ular walls, and was
the rich placer-frround worked in those first years when a half million
in gold dust and nuggets was carried out by the miners each season.
When these i)lacers were worked as low as their water system would
allow, the claims were al)andoned. Over BO old [)lacer claims, all the
level floor of the Basin are owned by the Silver-Bow Basin Mining
Company, of Boston, which has driven a tmmel ii,»)(>o ft. in length in
from Charlotte liiisiu below, and made an upraise of 90 ft. to pits
where two hydraulic giants are washing out the banks by many acres
each seascm. Wiuk is continued night and day from May to October
by the use of electric lights. The same ccmipany have accpiired many
of the quartz claims surrounding the Basin, and their 20-stamp-mill
disposes of many tons of ore daily. The Silver Quiver, a vast
cataract of foam, in outline like an arrow-case, hangs high on the
farther wall, its JJOO ft. fall dwarfed by its gigantic surroundings. The
Eastern Alaska Mill is driven by this waterfall, and the ore ecmies to it
in buckets moving on a wire tramway from the tiumel, 1,000 ft. above.

Sheep C.eek, 2 miles S. of Juneau, holds a waggon-road which
J. ads by steep and pictures(|ue shelves to a small basin where rich sil-
ver veins crop out. A mill was erected and the ore successfully worked
for two seas(ms, 18',)0-'91. The ore averaged .$40 per ton, and beauti-
ful specimens of rul»y-silver, averaging 75 per cent silver, were found.
The same veins crossing the ridge reappeared on Gnndsfotic Creek, on
the Taku Inlet side. The Sheep Creek Basin is the most pictur-
esque of such high mountain valleys, its floor a vast flower-bed, and its
perpendicular walls support gleaming glaciers.

Lemon, Montana, and Salmon Crcckx, on the mainland shore above
Jureau, hold large gravel-beds, which it is proposed to work with hy-

CAPK KANSIIAWK TO TAKT INLKT.

m
ir-

(Iraulic giants. Tlio upper reat'lies of (Ja.xlint'au ('lianncl wore not navi-
fjal)lc in Vancouver's time, Iteeause of the floating iee from the great
Auk Gltirit r* iho Sit/h Khr Chau'ijc (the phiee where beef or meat
is found). The Auks gave it this name l>eeause thcv were always sure
of Hiuling mountain-goat on the pastures arouiul its mve. Tlie glaeial
(16bris has now filled out the channel, until it i.s only navigable tu
canoes at high tide.

These Auks, who claim Douglass Island and the shores fronting
it, are said to he outcasts from the Iloonah tribe, and have always had
a bad name. They numbered H0(» in lK»i9, in IHNO they were counted
for ♦>40, and in 1H90 there were but 277 foimd by census enunjcrators.
When Vancouver's men hurried away from the trumpeting Chilkats
they fell among the Auks. Their ciinoe> trailed alter and surroundi'il
Whidbey's l»oats. With daggers lashed t>> their wrists, the warriors
landed in advance, and danced on the beach, spears in hand. Mr.
Whidbey became nervous, and considering it more "prudent and hu-
mane" not to disturb them, whiled away the night in hid boats, and then
returned to the fleet at Tort Althorp.

The Largest Quartz .>l ill in the World. f

Douglass Inland, "I'y miles long and averaging from Tt to 8 miles
in wi«lth, is as much a treasure-island as the; Priltyloffs. One mine, the
Treadwell, has yielded more gold than was paid for all of Alaska,
and while a few prospectors have crossed the island, they have only
scratched its shore-line in their search for minerals. Vancouver named
the island for his friend the liishop of Salisl)ury. It was an untouched
wilderness until IHHl, when miners, who came too late to stake off
anything on the Juneau side, made a camp opposite the tiny Juneau
Isle. John Treadwell, a San Francisco builder, unwillingly took the
original Bean and Matthews claim on Paris Creek as seeuiity for the
loan of $150. After it had fallen to him, he bought the aii joining
claim of M. Pierre Joseph Krnsara, or " Fremli Pete," for $.'iOO.
Messrs. Frye, Freeborn, and Hill, of San Francisco, and Senator John
P. Jones, of Nevada, became ecjual partners with him. Mr. Treadwell
remained on the ground, and peisonally held and defended his prop-
erty from lawless sijuatters, who washed off the surface of his lode,
and could not be driven ofT until the organic act secured his title.

* The Auk Glacier was named the Mendenhall Glacier by officers
of the Coast Survey in 181)1.

f There are single mining corporations in Hungaiy and South Africa
employing as many stamps, but in separate buildings and plants.

CAVK rANSHAWE TO TAKl' INMCT.

)

r i

OvjT J|»M(»0,()(tO liii-i lii't'ii spent ii|MHi the Tioiulwcll work?* sincf
tlicn; >J;i<M»,(»>(» WHS s|K'nt on a ditcli IN mile,- lon^', un<l S{5;iou,0(K) in
expeiinientiiif; with diffeient pioeesses of elilorination before a satis-
faetorv one was found. Tlu' one mill of ♦HO -tainp^, tlie liiip'st (»f its
kind in the world, has never stopped nijrht or day, .-iiinmer or winter,
save to set new niaehinerv. Six hundred tons of oic is milled each
• lay, avera<rinf: from .*:{ to ^1 per ton in value, and milled at a cost of
$1.25 per tt»n. The (tre is ipiairied in open pits, anil, I'allinu throuj;h
ore-shoots to cars in the tiunitls lielow, is moveil l»y jriavity thi"oii<:li
every process. The heavy phime of smoke fioin the Treadwell's chlo-
rination works has kilh'd ve^'ctation for a mile up and down the islaml's
edge.

The »iiill-owners make no objection to tourists vi-itinji the establish-
ment, but as they caimot undertake to .-us|)(Mid work nor to .-tatiorj
fiuards or guides, visitors are urged to exercise great caution in enter-
ing tunnels, where trains are always moving; pits, where blasts aie be-
ing tired; and the mill, where no voice can be heard to warn thein of
belts and cogs. By folhtwing the path around to the left of the mill,
one may reach the edges of the two great pits, and by following the
|iipe-line up to the reservoir, a (piarter of a mile from the whavf, he
reaches a meadow of dwarf laurel and countless strange wild flowers.
The ditch and Hume furnish a pathway thiough the heart of the fore.»t,
following the convolutions of the hillsides to a point S ndles above the
mill in air-line, but 18 miles distant by the flume.

The M(xir<m mine, adjoining the Treadwell on the east, is owned by
the same stockholders, and further claims assert the extension of the
same mineral vein nearly to the foot of the island.

The Bcar\'i S'rxt mine, adjoining the Treadwell on the west, is
owned by (Jerman and English capitalists, and, owing to disagreements
between mining engineers and stockholders, the big mill was never op-
erated after its completion in 1888. Its promise built up the adjacent
DoHf/las ('If I/, which held but ;{00 inhabitants in 18'.M), with a street
of stores, a saw-null, a church, and a school-house.

The U. S. (jcological Survey has never made examination of this
mineral region. The enormous deposit of low-grade ore on the Tread-
well claim is a fault or freak, a mere pocket or chinuiey of tpiartz
not parallelled elsewhere on the channel. The most ex[)erienced min-
ing superintendents confess themselves puzzled in this country, geo-
logically unlike any other. The coinitry rock, the general formation, is
slate, which, with granite, holds the ((uartz veins, but the veins are
broken, confused, thrown in every way, often without distinct walls,
and a large party contend that there are not any true fissure veins in
the country. Dr. (Jeorge M. Dawson visited the Treadwell for his own
geological satisfaction, and wrote in " The American Geologist,'' Au-
gust, 1889: "It presents none of the characters of an ordinary lode or
vein, being without any parallel or arrangement of its constituents, and
showing no such coarse crystalline structure as a lode of larger dimen-
sions might be expected to exhibit."

Miners' wages range from $2 per day for Indians, and from $3 per

ADMIRALTY ISLAM).

(Iny iipward for white men, with IkhihI mid U»(lj.'inn provije ' Itv tlie em-
plover. The eo>t of provir'ions iiveriifjes more than $1 a day for eueh
man in the larger estalilii^hmentH. Heef eattlc are brought up from tlie
Sound and shiii^litered at .Itineaii, whieh is the only place in Ala.>(ka en-
joying a re^idar supply of fresh iu'ef. With the abundance and cheap-
ncsH of venirton, duck, salmon and other tish, the pn)spector lives bet-
ter with less exertion and cost than in any other known ndniii^ region.
Ten-pound salmon may be bought for tiv«' and ten cents in the summer,
halibut as cheaply in the winter, and a whole deer for !?2 at any seunon,
and the ndner has less to conten<l with than in Arizona, Montana, (u-
other new countries. Every condition of life in those regions is re-
versed, however. All travel is by water, the canoe beconu's his pack-
mule, and water-courses are his oidy trails. He has to cut his way
throuj^h an unbroken forest from the moment he leave.«^ his canoe, sink-
ing knee-deep In the thick moss or sphapium, and i camp-tire built ou
such firound gradually burns a deep wcll-lH»le for itself. A tent and
a Sibley stove are necessary in this rej^ion of freipient rains.

Admiralty Island.

Admiralty iMlnnd, loo miles in length, with an average breadth
of 30 miles, is unsurveyed like the other great islaiuls, save as the
prospectors have followed the shores and the water-courses, h'ootz-
imhoo Inlet cuta it nearly in two, and is an inland sea enibracing a
small archipelago of its own, sheltered in the heart of the little Ad-
miralty continent.

Glass Piulnsuhi, on the eastern side, is a consi«lerable island itself,
and only joined to the parent shore by a spongy isthmus, over which
the Auks drag their canoes. Hawk Inlet almost cuts loose the north-
ern end of the island, which is as large and considered as rich miner-
alogically as the opposite Douglass Maud. A snow-capped mountain
range fills the interior. Marble bluffs front for miles on the western
shore, and coal has beer, found in Kootznnhoo Inlet, and on the souih-
eastcrn shore.

Gold quartz veins were found on the northern shore, and this " Tel-
lurium Group " promises to build a second .Juneau in the picturescpie
bay named for Captain Robert Funter, an early navigator of the North-
west Coast.

Killisnoo, on Kenasnow (' 'ear the fort ") Island, holds Koteosok
Harbour between it and the Ac' jiralty shore, and is the site of large
oil and guano works. There are a post-office, Government school, and
Russian chapel at this place, and a village of Kootznahoo Indians
under command of their great chief Kitchnatti, or Saginaw Jake.

^^^^mmmmmm

ADMIRALTY ISLAM).

X: •;- J

The first post of the Nortliwest Tnulinf^ Conipany was established
here in 1880 as a shore station for whaling. The explosion of a bomb
liarpoon killed a great medieine-inan in 18H2, and the company re-
fused the Kootznahoos' demand of 200 blankets as indemnity. The
natives held a white man as ransom, but discovering him to possess
but one eye they returned him as cnlfus (worthless), and demanded a
whole and sound man as an equivalent for their dead shaman. Their
thi'eats to murder the whites at the station were answered by Cap-
tain Merriman, the naval commander at Sitka, who hurried over in
a revenue cutter, held a council, and bombarded the village of Angoon,
the Bear Fort of the Kootznahoos in the great inlet. Much indigna-
tion was vented by Eastern editors at the occurrence, and sad pictures
were drawn of the natives left shelterless among "the eternal ice and
snows of an arctic winter." The mercury stood 20 higher for the
month than in New York and Boston, and the Kootznahoos, securing
front seats on the oi)posite shore, watched the bombardment and
cheered the neatest shots. The tribe saved their winter provisions
and all their belongings, save what pilferers took during the bimtbard-
mcnt. They paid a tine of 400 blankets, and have since kept the
peace.

FISHERIES OF THE REGION.

The cod which abound in Chatham Strait were for a time packed
at Killisnoo, the natives receiving two cents apiece for the 8,000 and
10,000 fish of 5 pounds' average weight which they brought in daily from
their trawls. The cod were dried artificially, and an excellent quality
of cod-liver oil was made, but tnis factory could not compete with the
Siuunagin fleet which controlled the market at San Francisco. The
herring, " which has decided the destiny of nations," next made the
fortunes of Killisnoo. From September to May all these waters are
visited by great schools of herrings, and once in August the mail
steamer passed through one school for four honivs — tlie water silvered
as far as could be seen, many whales and flocks of gulls attracted
by this run of plenty. The natives rake them from the water w'th a
bit of lath set with nails, and a family can (ill a canoe in an hour.
Spruce branches are laid in shallow water along the shore, and the
herring roe deposited on tliem are stored in cakes for winter use. The
factory's crews net from 300 to 600 barrels of herring at a single
haul. Often 1,000 barrels are seined at once, and 1,50(3 barrels were
recently taken by one east of the seine in Sitka harbour. The same
machinery and processes are used at Killisnoo as at the menhaden
factories in the East. Each barrel of fish when pressed yields .^
quarts of oil, valued at 25 and 35 cents a gallon. The refuse of 50
barrels of fish, dried and powdered, furnishes one ton of guano, worth
$30, and is much in demand for Hawaiian sugar plantations and Cali-
fornia fruit ranches.

One hundred whites and 50 natives are employed, and the factory is
a model of neatness and order, despite the odours. Its gardens are
worthy of a visit.

ADMIRALTY I8LANI).

THE KOOTZNAIIOOS.

Sar/inaw Jake is a chief object of intcrc^'^ to tourists. His people,
the Kootznahoos, whose name has l)een spelled iu fifteen ways, claim to
have come from over the si'as, and deny any common oriirin with the
Tlingits. They first maniifaetured the native spirit, hoochhioo^ wliieh
carries more frenzy in each drop than any other liciuid, and is dis-
tilled in old coal-oil cans from a mash composed of yeast and mohisses
or sugar, mixed with flour. They made hostile demonstrati<Mis to Van-
couver's men, and Whidbcy believed it "more humane and prudent"
to leave before tempted to hurt the Kootziuiiioos. They murdcicd
traders and prospectors as soon as the Hussiaus left, anil in ISOIJ Com-
mander Meade, I'. S. X., went in the Saf/inaw, shelled the village in
the inlet, took Kitchnatti prisoner and conveyed him to Marc Island,
Cal., where he was confined on the Sarfiumi' for a yeai'. The result of
this arrest rendered it unnecessary to tiansfer the garrison fioiii
Sitka and build a post on Admiralty Island, as ha<l })eeu contem-
plated. The tribe, reduced to 47'* souls in IHUO, one half the number
reported in 1869, are peaceable followers of this old chief, who wears
a gaudy uniform, and posts this scutcheon over his log-cabin door :

" KITCHNATTI."

" By the Governor's coniniissinii,
And the coinj)any'H perniiss'ou,
I'm made the (irand Tyhee
Of this entire illubeo.

"Prominent in son<j and story,
I've attained the top i)f jrlory.
A-^ ' Sas.'inaw ' I'm known to fame,
Jake ' is but my common name.' "

A young demagogue, a common Kootznahoo politician, has lately
set up as a rival and successor of Jake, dis{)lays a l)onibastie couplet
on his door-post, and matches every move the great man makes.

There is a large lagoon opposite Killhvoo^ reached by a rocky pass
at high tide and by carries at low water, where herring swarm in their
time, malma swim in the tourists' season, and luck always attends a
fisherman. Kiflisnoo is an admirable hcadiiuarters for sportsmen,
who can here charter launches and find native guides and canoemen.

Kootznahoo Inlet can busy sportsmeu-explorers for more than
a month, and is a maze of islands, itdets, bays, coves, lagoons, creeks,
and lakes. The narrow entrance is '•] nulcs above Killisnoo, and just
within there is a reef-strewn pass, where the tide runs oui with great
overfalls and roars, attaining a speed of 12 knots an hour — the eriuai
of Seymour Narrows. At the Second Rnp'uh^ (.'aptain Meade an-
chored the Sitginuw at slack water in 18n9, but with the ebl of the

tide the whirlpools and overfalls caused the vessel to keel over, to

li?:

ALONG CHATHAM 8TRAIT AND LYNN CANAL.

sheer violently and nearly snap its cables before it could get away.
He named the place JJdPs Acre. The large village facing this watery
acre, although deemed a secure retreat in all attacks, was strongly forti-
fied, and the older lodges and the graveyard are interesting.

Veins of bituminous coal at the head of the inlet were discovered
by Lieutenant Mitchell, U. S. N., in 1868, were visited by Mr. Seward
the following year, and have been regularly rediscovered every season
since. As first tested, it burned quickly, produced great heat, but
rapidly destroyed grate-bars and boiler-iron. Many interesting fossil
plants and shells and lf,rgcr remains have been found in the shales,
clay, and sandstones of tliese formations, and the supposed collar-bone
of a pterodactyl, exhumed here \y Kieh and Willoughby, was long ex-
hibited at Juneau. Bear, deer, wild fowl, salmon, malma, and trout
reward those seeking them, and artists are promised landscape re-
wards.

Along Chatham Strait and Lynn Canal.

Chatham Strait and its northern continuation, Lynn Canal,
afford the nol)lest water-way in the archipelago, a broad highway run-
ning almost due N. and S. for 200 miles, with an average wi 'th of 5
miic-8. Geologists easily recognize it as the bed of a great glacier.
Colnett and the early fur-traders knew it and named it l)efore Van-
couver arrived, and the latter wrote that " the sea-otter were in such
plenty that it was easily in the power of the natives to procure as
many as they chose to be at the trouble of taking." The free fishing
which Russia allowed for the ten years after the conventions of 1824-
'25 exterminated the precious animal.

Chatham Strait is a playground of inferior whales, great totemic
creatures whom the Tlingits believed were once bears, but, going to
sea, wore off their fur on the rocks and had their feet nibbled off
by fishes. A demon, or the all-mischievous raven, often creeps down
the whale's throat, and i-auses such agony that thewhiile rushes to
shore and vomits the intruder on the beach. Paintings and carvings
showing the demon in the whale's body are often assumed as proof
that the Tlingits have a Jonah legend and direct Asiatic descent. The
Chatham Strait whales are credited with the same aggressive disposi-
tion as the cinnamon bear, attacking and destroying canoes. A few
years ago, a duck-hunter, who unintentionally wounded a frolicking
whale, was attacked, and only escaped by reaching shallow water.

Halibut-fishing may be followed with success anywhere in the
strait, and the crudest tackle with a bit of salmon or a herring for
bait will decoy "chicken halibut" of 30 and 6(' pounds while a
steamer waits at Killisnoo wharf.

ALONG CHATHAM STRAIT AND LYNN CANAL.

le a

Lynn Canal, the grandest fiord on the coast, was named for
Vancouver's native town in Norfolk, England, and Poiid Convcrdcn at
its entrance celebrates his own country estate. It extends for 55 miles
to Seduction PobU, where it divides into the CiAlkat In/rf on the W.
and the CIdlkoot Inlet on the E. It has but few indentations, and the
abrupt palisades of the mainland shores jiresent an unrivalled pano-
rama of mountains, glaciers, and forests, with wonderful doud effects.
Depths of 430 fathoms have been sounded in the canal, and tlie conti-
nental range on the E. and the White Mountains on the \V, rise to
average heights of 6,000 ft., with glaciers in every ravine and alcove

The Eagle C* lacier shows first on the mainland shore above the
Auk lilacier. " It is surmounted by a rocky crag, which resembles
our national bird so much more than does the figure on the new dollar,
that we christened it the Eagle Glacier," wrote Captain Beardslee in
August, 1879.

The Cameron Boundary Line * crossing from Point Whidbey to
Point Bridffet would cut the fiord in two and give to Canaila lier-
ner''s Bay, where the Tucknook jdacers and the Seward City mines
give great promise. Captain White, who found rich sulphurets at
Funter Bay in 1808, took the Wayanda into Berner's Bay and found
*' numerous quartz veins containing sulphurets," w hicli he had also
found " occurring in similar formation along the X. Iv shore of Admi-
ralty Island, and on the mainland as far as Taku Harbour, CO miles
S. E. of Berner's Bay."

William Henry Bay, on the opposite shore, is a nook commend-
ed to sportsmen by Captain L. A. Beardslee, whom the struggling salm-
on tripped up as he attempted to w ade the stream ; w ho found many
bear-tracks, and evidences of the best duck-shooting. Fifty spider
crabs were speared by his companion in a few liours, a crab whose
claws measure 5 ft. from tip to tip, and whose 7-inch shell is packod
with a fine, delicious m»'at.

Seduction Point was so named by Vancouver because of " the ex-
ceedingly artful character" of the natives ini.al)iiing it. Several
canoe-loads of Chilkats met Whidbey at this point, seemed most
friendly and hospitable, and led the way up the westein arm, but grew
hostile when the Englishmen refused to cross the bar and ascend the
river to the village where eight chiefs of conseciuence resided. All
were arrayed in ceremonial dress, wearing the fringed uarkhci u, or
Chilkat dance-blanket, with tall head-dresses, and one flourished a

* See map on page 61.

■ !f

92 CIIILKAT COUNTRY AND PASSES TO THE YUKON.

brass speaking-trumpet with great effect. When Whidbey returned
from this cruise, Vancouver abandoned all hope of finding the North-
west Passage •

" From the close connection and continuation of the lofty, snowy
barrier, little probability can remain of there being any navigable
communication, even for canoes, between such waters (Hudson Bay)
and the North I'acitic Ocean, without the interruption of falls, cata-
racts, and vario<is other impediments," and for 90 years explorers
halted at the foot of this great barrier, the " firm and close connected
range of stupendous mountains forever doomed to support a burden
of undissolving' ice •uul snow."

The Davidson (ilacier, which sweeps superbly from a gorge in
the White Mountains and spreads out in a broad, evenly ribl»ed fan
fiont, is the most imposing and symmetrical ice-stream of its type in
the region. It is named for Prof. George Davidson, the astronomer,
who explored its lower slopes during his visits to the Chilkat country
in 1807 and 1869. It has built a terminal moraine far out into ihe
channel, and a half-mile-wide for.est belt encircles the three-mile curve
of the glacier's foot. The moraine is channelled with streams and is
swampy throughout. The base of the glacier presents a chaotic mass
of grimy ice-blocks, and it is a tortuous mile up the ice cliffs and be-
tween crevasses to the line of the mountain gateway where Prof.
Davidson found the ice-level 045 ft. above the cham. ^1. Steam-
launches can be chaitered at the canneries to convey tourists to this
glacier, and a tolerably dry path has been found leading to the ice.
The finest view of the glacier is had from the ship when directly
abreast of it in the morning. From Pyramid Harbour the ice mass
seems to project in air and overhang its base.

The Chilkat Country and the Passes to the Yukon.

There is a small glacier in the canon behind Pyramid Harbour

which lies at the foot of the precipitous mountain named for the H. B.
Co.'s ship L((hoHvhcre. This remarkable mountain rises as straight as
a mason's wall for 2,0<>0 ft. above the beach, "subtending an angle
of more than 30° as seen from the shore of the harbour," and shad-
owing a ship at anchor. It has been climbed in two hours by an
approach from the west side, but its forests contain many bears, whom
the climber must be prepared to meet. The cannery and trading station
at Pyramid Harl)our weve established in 1882, and have been successful,
save in the season oi 1891, when a spring avalanche wrecked the can.

d9"

40-

Unexplored Re^/'om

Scale 1 : tino.rtO).

I'i miles.

Vhilknt iiiitl ('hilkoot linya.

CHILKAT COUNTRY AM) PASSES TO THK Yl'KOX. 03

nery and cabins. There is usually a large camp of Chiikat Indians be-
low the cannery, and addition to baskets, spoons, and curios they often
make a flower market with the wild roses and iris which attain won-
derful size and colour in this Alpine valley. Wild strawberries arc
found on the flats, together with the salmon-berries and thinible-I)er-
rica of the coast.

The little Pyramid Island, off Pyramid Harbour, has been also
known as St<my, Sandy, Farewell, and Observatory Island. The native
name is Shla-hntch. It is the U. S. astronomical station, its posi-
tion 59 11' north and 135° 26' west, and is the tourist's farthest
north, where he exposes photographic plates, and reads fine print, at
midnight in July.

Chilkat, a rival cannery and trading station, was built on the op-
posite side of the inlet in 1884, and as a point of departtirc for Yukon
travellers this has Chilkat become quite a village. The Chilkat can-
nery is one of the largest in southeastern Alaska, and its catch of king
and red salmon busies a large force of whites. and Chinese. The na-
tives were not altogether pleased with the canners' invasion, and there
have been many troubles. The rivalry of the caimeries once raised
the price of a single salmon from two to fifteen cents, and when the
two establishments agreed upon a common price for the next season
the Chilkats rejected their terms. Once fifteen cents, always fifteen
cents, they insisted. Chinese and whites were sent for, and there has
been trouble nearly every summer since. The Chilkats naturally ob-
jected to this invasion of their own-fishing grounds, tlie seining of the
river of every salmon, and the great waste and destruction of other
fish that are their main food supply ; but each time the Governor and
the man-of-war are summoned, and the Chilkats are bidden to let the
white poachers and their nets alone, on pain of punishment.

A trail a mile and a half long leads through the miry woods across
to the site of the mission station of Ilaiiics, on Ch'dkoot Inht^ whence
Yukon miners canoe to the end of Tnh/d Inlet. Dr. and Mrs. \Villard
abane med the mission a few years ago because of the hostile and sus-
picious actions of the Indians after the death of a child to whom they
had given medicines.

THE GREAT TRIBE OF THE TLIXGIT NATION.

The Chilkats and the Chilkoots, really one tribe, are the great
people of the Tlingit nation. Captain Beardslee says, that " their
legend is that originally all the Tlingits lived in the Chilkat country ;

11 h

nil

;li

if i

94 CIIILKAT COUNTKY AND PASSES TO THK YUKON'.

that there came j^reat floods of ice and water, the country grow too
poor to support them, and many emigrated sttuth." No geologist
takes exception to this legend.

They have always been gieat grease-traders and middle-men, and
possessed more wealth than any other tribes. They were opposed to
any white interference with their trade with the Tinnehs, or interior
tribes, and for fifty years successfully resisted the attempts of traders
and miners to cross the p;isscs to the Yukon basin. The Chilkats' fur-
trade was most valuable to the H. H. Co., but its agent« never saw or
traded directly with the Tinnehs, who furnished the pelts brought to
them at A/f. Ldhoxchere. The Chilkats met the Tinnehs at the divide
and bought their furs.

The Timiehs never attempted to pass the line, and the few brought
as guests were overpowered with the sights of the great villages, the
war canoes, and the traders' fire-ship, smoking like a huge pipe, and
moving without paddle or sail. The H. B. Co, sold flint-lock muskets
for as many marten-skins as could be piled between stock and nnizzle,
and the fashion in gun-barrels progressed until the huntsman's weapon
was as tall as himself. The white men made a profit of a few hundred
per cent on these sales, and the Chilkats cleared a few thousand per cent
when trading with the Tiimeh. A Boston brig visited Lynn Canal in
1807, and in an attempt to board and loot her 70 Chilkats were killed.
They were dreaded by the smaller tribes below them, and fought all
the villages between their homes and the Nass River.

The Chilkats "mustered about 2,000 " in 1869, in 1880 there were
988, and in 1890 only 811 of the tribe, the enumerators finding that one
whole village had been wipetl out by la (frippe. Their winter homes
are in three villages up the Chilkat River — Ilhidanchiker, or Tunduatek
(" the village on the cast bank of the river"), or Doniwak's village, is at
the mouth of tiie Chilkat River, where only canoes can go. Kut-
kwnttlu-lu, " the place of gulls '' — and no gull could speak it more
plainly — is next on the river, and then comes the capital, Klukwan,
" old town," where Kloh-Kutz lived and ruled ; where every house was
fortified with bastions and port-holes ; where each totem had a splen-
did feast-house, with massive carved columns inside ; and the grave-
yards are still an ethnologist's paradise. In summer these villages are
depopulated, the people flocking to ('hilkat and Pyiamid Harbour to
sell curios and spend what little they may acquire in debaucheries.
Saloons were openly kei)t in 1892, the Chilkats were able to buy liquor
by the barrel, if they wished, and the end of the great tribe is at hand.

Kloh-Kutz, Chartrich, or llole-in-the-Cheek, their great head-chief,
was a hero worthy of Cooper, and of the best type of Chilkat warriors.
His father was one of the band that went over and destroyed the H. B.
Co.'s Fort Selkirk, on the Yukon, in 1851, because of interference with
their trade ; and Kloh-Kutz drew for Professor Davidson the first map
of the passes leading from the Chilkat country to the Yukon. The
great astronomer first knew him in 1867, and when he returned to
observe the total eclipse of the sun in 1869, Kloh-Kutz made the party
his guests, and established them in the council-house at Klu-Kwan.

CIIILKAT COUNTKY AND I'A'^SES TO THE YUKON. 05

Mr. SowanI spont oclippo-diiy (Aufrust 8, ISCiO), nt Klu-Kwan, oscnrtod
up ami down tlio river by war canoos manned with tlu' Hower of Clulkat
chivalry. These people eotiuiiaiided the admiration of all whites who
knew tiiem hef<)re the canneries and nuners came, and contact witli
civilization wrouj^ht their ruin. I'rofe.^.sor Davidson brought first word
of them, and made a vocabulary of tiieir dialect. Lieutenant ('. E. S.
Wood visited them in 1877, and recorded much of interest in hia
" Amoiif^ the Thlinkits in Alaska " ((Vntury Majrazine, July, 1882), not-
inp: their rope-duel, the counterj)ait of the Scandinavian Mteupdnnare.
Ensi};n Ilanus's report of his peace mission of 1880 is a valuable ethno-
logical contribution, and is reprinted in the census report of 189i>. The
Drs. Krause came from Herlin to study them as finest and least cor-
nipted of Tlinfi;it tribes, and their " J)ie TIdinkrt Indinver " is the most
valuable publication of its kind. Lieutenant Emmons learned nuich of
them before theii- decadence, and as proof of their friendship was per-
mitted to buy Kloh-Kutz's ancestral narkhcen or dance-blanket after
the chiefs death.

The Chilkats lon<: knew the art of forfjin<; copper, and many fine
specimens of jade have been obtained from them. They weie great
hunters as well as traders, and bear and monntida-goat were their espe-
cial game. The latter, the " wool-bearing antelope " is found through-
out their country, and they have the credit of first wearing the elaborate
imrkhcen, or dance-robes, known as Chilkat blankets, but made by Hai-
das and Tsimsians as well. They wore them a century ago, but few are
made to-day, I'educed size, coarse weaving, and traders' dyed yarns ren-
dering the modern ones poor imitations of the originals. The old blan-
kets, over 2 yaids in width, 1 yard deep, with a yard-long fringe border-
ing three sides, were woven of finely spun goat-wool on a warp of fine
cedar threads susi)ended from an upright loom and tautened by weights.
The designs were combinations of totemic figures, rigidly convention-
alized anJ ^'danced, that recorded t';c legends of the wearer's family.
The claws and the inverted eyes found on nearly all blankets are those
of Hutii, or Hah-tla, the thunder-bird ; the full face is the bear and the
whale's profile easily recognized. Each piece and part of the design
is woven separately, as in Japanese tapestry, connected by occasional
brides, and the even satin stitch over and beneath every two threads
gives a smooth, fine surface. Black, white, yellow, and a soft greenish-
blue are the colours employed, and in a particularly fine blanket belong-
ing to a Nass River chief, a rich dull red was employed with fine effect.
The black is made from soot, charcoal, or lignite ; the yellow from sfA:'
hone, a sea-weed found on the rocks ; the greenish-blue from boiling
copper and this sea-weed together ; and the red from spruce-juice, berry-

juice,

and ochre.

To the Yukon River and Mining Camps*

Either the Chilkat or the Chilkooi Inlet leads to passes over the
continental range, by which the head-waters of the Yukon River may
be reached. The Drs. Krause, Dr. Eveiette, U. S. A., and Mr. E. J.

}■ I

96 CHILKAT COUNTRY ANF) I'AHSEH TO THE YUKON.

(ilavc hiivc oxplorc'd the hcatl-watcirt of the Chilkat and Alsekh Uivers.
All', (ihive descended the Alsekh to Dry Bay on the oeean-eoast cue
peason, and hi 1H91 took paek-hornes over the Chilkat, and proved the
feasibility of a paek-trail to the Yukon and the existence of Huitable
pastuies for such aninuils. His " I'ioneer Pack-horses in Alaska," Cen-
tury xMa<<a/ine, September, 1HII2, describes the regions traversed.

The C'hilkoot Trail, used l>y miners since 188(», begins at Haleys,
2(5 miles from Chilkat Cannery; in 12 miles it ascends to the pass, and
in 11 miles more, or T'\ miles in all, drops to Lake Linderman in the bush
country, beyond the range. There is a magnilicent view over the lake
country northward from the summit of the pass. This Shaseki Pass
of the natives, Chilkoot of the miners, Periier of Schwatka, aad Taiya
of Ogilvie, is variously estimated from '.i^'.i'JH to 4,100 ft. above the sea.
The Ltwis Itiver flows from the chain of lakes, and at Fort Selkirk,
;5r»7 miles from Lake Lindernian, unites wUh the 7V////, and forms the
Yukon, which flows thence 2,000 miles to lieringSca, the third river
in size in North America.

At the junction of the Porcujjine River the Yukon touches the Arc-
tic Circle, the true " Land of the Midnight Sun."

The mining camps on J'orti/-)iii/r ('r<ek and the Tcnnnn receive
accessions from Juneau each spring, and over 300 miners remain in
camp each winter. The following is the table of distances from Juneau
to the Yukon mines:

HILEH.

To Head of oafton AJ.'i

" Head of White Houye Itapids. , ax'S

" Taklicena River ^40

" Head of Lake Le Harpc 2.')«

" Foot of Lake Le Barge :i87

" HootoliiKiua 320

" ("assiar Bar 347

" Little HalinouKiver 890

" Five Fiiifrers 4.51

" I'elly River .510

" Stewart River 630

" Fortv-uiile 750

MILES.

To Haines Mission 80

" Head of canoe iiavi<,'atioii 100

" Summit of Cliilkoot Pass 115

" Lake Linderman 1'.i4

" Head of Lake Bennett 129

" Boundary line 139

" Foot of Lake Bennett 1.55

" Foot of Caribou Crossing 1,58

" Foot of Taku Lake 175

" Takish House 179

" Head of Mud Lake \m

" Foot of Lake Marsh 800

Small steamers have ascended to the foot of White Horsr Rapids.
The Alaska Commercial Company, of San Francisco, chiefly controls
the fur-trade within United States lines from its ocean post at St.
MichacVs. The miners have their own river-boat connecting with an
annual supply ship from Seattle to St. Michael's. The country is
almost destitute of game, forest fires started by miners having driven
animals back from the river ; and the herds of moose and reindeer
were rapidly exterminated after 1867, when the natives first obtained
good rifles and fired at everything from pure wantonness. The river
tribes are of Athabascan stock, poor and degraded. There are Roman
Catholic missions at Koxoriffsky and Xulato, and an Episcopal mis-
sion at Anvil King salmon 5 and 6 ft. in length, and weighing as
much as 120 pounds, are reported as crowding the Yukon ; red salmon

|:ib :»)

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!S —

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11--. ' '"

611
1"

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i^-^V/J^ GV " «? -ny,\''' „• X •• \ < . ISLANDS > \ >;. S

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.^rnANOis I.

WILLOUGHB< I.

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-■■■■■■ 1

,*.'»'"4

SKETCH MAP OF

GLACIER BAY AND 3IUI11 GLACIER .)

By HARRY KIKLDING UEID. JT

SCALE OF MILES

" ' ' .V '7~'__ 'l

|.W Ml'

*.,*"''

*"%)

LOW. WOODED LAND

au^

loU

Y'.-

r.'.i

t0\

Yoiiiij;

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"'m)'

GLACIKK BAY.

attain ^rcat size, and wild fowl giithor on the flats in inorodihlo num-
bers.

The hcnd-vvatcrs of the Yukon were first discovered by 11. B. Co.
men in IHlo. The W. V. T. Survey explored the region in IHrtr), an«i
Dr. W. II. Dull and Fredcriek Whynipi'r, who winten-d there, have fully
deserihed it in their works. Captain Hayniond, V. S. A., luiide a nnli-
tary reeonnoissanet' in 18(57, when he oblijred the II. H. Co. to reniovo
to British territory. A pioneer jwospeeting party erossed the Chll-
kootl'ass in IHSO, and miners have gone in increasing numbers each
season sjjK'e. Lieutenant Sehwatka erossed the ('hilkoot and rafted
his way to the sea in 18S:{. In 1K8'.» the V. S. Coast and (Jeodetic

Survt-y despatehed the Turner and McCratli parties to delinitely deter-
mine the line of the 111st meridian, the Inteinational Boundary Line.
Fhey j)laeed their monument a little W. of tht> mouth of Forty-mile
Jreek, and \l\ miles farther E. than the Canadian monument erected by

D LAND

Glacier Bay.

Captain Beardslec's <ilacier Bay, the Sitlh-fjhfi-ee, or *' great cold
lake " of the Iloonahs, indents the northern shore of Icy Stniit, ex-
tending over no miles from X. W. to S. E., and is from 5 to lo miles
wide. There are strong currents in the strait and the line of a termi-
nal moraine forms a bar off the bay's mouth. Steamers often anchor
for the night in Excursion Inlet, a few miles E. of the entrance, or at
BarthtCii lidji, just within Point Cimtavus. The eatmery established at
the latter place in 1S83 was closed for many seasons, but there is a
Iloonah salmon camp on the beach each summer. There is another
summer fishing camp in Berg Jidi/, 10 miles above Point Cdrohis, on
the W. shore. The natives only visit the upper reaches in search of
the hair-seal, which delight to ride around on the ice-cakes. Bears are
abundant in the forested regions, and have exterminated the deer, as
in the Chilkat country, and the big white mountain-goat is found on
all the heights. No salmon are found beyond the islands.

DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF GLACIER BAY.

Vancouver's ships were anchored at Port Althorp, on the N. W.
shore of Chichagoff Lsland, while Whidbcy and Lemesuiieur explored
the region. They camped at Point Carolus, and reported that to the N.
and E. of that point " the shores of the continent form two large open
bays which were terminated [July 12, 1794] by compact, solid moun-
tains of ice rising perpendicularly from the water's edge, and bounded
to the N. by a continuation of the united, lofty, frozen mountains that
extend eastward from Mt. Fairweather. In these Imys also were great

r™

I.II

li::

r )* i ,

^ -i

GLACIER BAY.

quantities of broken ice, which, having been put in motion by the
springing up of a northerly wind, were drifted to the southward."

The " frozen mountains," as he termed ghiciers, were nncompre-
hended then, and his scarcely indented coast-line was retained in Te-
benkoflf's later charts. The Russian traders named Icy Strait, and,
dreading its currents and icebergs, kept close to the S. shore, and
never knew the bay.

In 18H9, Kloh-Kutz told Prof. Davidson of a great bay full of
glaciers lying :-10 miles to westward of the Davidon Glacier, one day's
journey on snow-shoes. In 1877 Lieutenant C. E. S. Wood, while seal
and goat hunting after the forced abandonment of Mr. Charles Tay-
lor's plan to climb Mt. St. Elias, canoed about this " great bay 20
miles S. E. of Mt. Fairweather," and crossed by the Muir (ilacier to
Chilkat * In October, 1879, the glaciers were really discovered and
made known to the world by John Muir, the California geologist, who
had before that discovered the residual glaciers of the Sierras, He ca-
noed its length with the Rev. Hall Young, and spent a few days f near
the Pacific Glacier, and lectured that winter about " the Fairweather
glaciers." In July, 1880, Mr. Muir returned alone and spent several
weeks exploring and enjoying- the glacier afterward named in his
honour. Later in July, Captain L. A. Beardsleo, U. S. N., entered
the bay in the trading steamer Favourite, accompanied by Cozian, the
famous Rtissian pilot, who had never heard of the bay before, and by
Dick Willoughby, who was living in a Hoonah village in Cross Sound.
Captain Beardslee went as far as Willoughby Island, when fog shut
down and the owner of the chartered steamer insisted on returning.
He charted the lower jiart of the bay, an 1 by dint of persistent argu-
ment had the nsme of Glacier Bay accepted by the Coast Survey. He
gave a tracing of his chart to Captain James Carroll, who took the
mail steamer Idaho up the bay in July, 1883, found the glacier John
Muir had described, and named both inlet and ice-stream for him.

Tourists have been taken to Mnir Cwlacier by that same course
evory summer, and the next discoveries in the bay were made by Cap-
tain Carroll in August, 1892, when he took the Qu'^ni to the front of
the Pacific fi lacier, and found the picturesque and unsuspected
Johns Hopkins, Rendu, and CHrroIl Cilaciers as named by Prof.
Reid. The Coast Survey has not yet (189'5) charted the bay.

INDIAN TRADIT'.ONS.

The Iloonahs could not tell anything of the glacier that the scored
hillsides, the windrows of old lerminal moraun s, whether as islands or
shoals, did not more plainly declare. They feared and kept away
from the region fraught with terrors and dangers, and only seal and
goat hunters ventured near. They say that in their " fathers' time" —
an indeterminate period, as often 60 as 250 years before — the ice

* See Century Magazine, July, 1882.

f See N. P. folder Alaska, by John Muir.

GLACIER BAY.

reached to Bartlett's Bay. About 1860 it was in line with Willoughby
Island. " Long, long ago " the glacier advanced and swept away
Kl^mshawshiki, " the city on the sand at the base of the mountains,"
where the Beardslee Islands now rise. " It came down in a day and it
did not go away in ten years," they say, telling how the ice floods de-
scended, plowed up their fields, destroyed their houses, a^ the Corner
glacier once devastated its valley. Again, a great wnve rushed in
from the ocean, swept away the village near Bartlett Hay, mowed down
the forests with icebergs, and left no living thing. They remember,
too, that a glacier once crept down and dammed up their best salmon
stream. Two slaves weio offered up, and Sitth-too-Yehk relented, the
barrier melted, and the ti/cc gaily leaped again.

SCIENTISTS' CAMPS.

In 1886, Prof. G. Frederick Wright, of Oberlin, Ohio, Rev. J. L.
Patton, of Greenville, Mich., and Mr. I'rentiss Baldwin, of Cleveland,
camped for a month on the E. moraine, two miles below the ice front.
By observaticms made on pinnacles of I.o fixed in memory. Prof.
Wright figured an adviince of 7^ ft. a tiay, and included the results of
his studies in the first chapters of The Ice Age in North America (D.
Appleton & Co , New York).

In 1890, John Muir camped for three months on the east moraine,
joined by Prof. Henry Fielding Reiil, of the Case School of Applied
Sciences, Cleveland, Ohio, who had associated with him Messrs, II. P.
Gushing, H. M. McBride, R. L. Casement, C. A. Adams, and J. F.
Morse. They built a substantial cabin a half mile below the ice wall
with a noble chimney of glacier-cut stones cemented with glacier mud,
iind from this home station explored every part and arm of the gla-
cier. They mapped the glacial region by plane table from the higher
stations.*

Prof. Reid niGa.uned hh' baso-lino or the weSt moraine and trian-
gulated the heights of ni.^ staiion.-i; a lii'e of rod a. id Itlack flags was
set across tut I'^in^ strcrn, and daily ol)servations taken from sta-
tion E on the r'd'jo »)f .Vt. Wight, and from K en the opposite spur, 3
miles apart. The residt of this ci^ofnl ^sork rediieed 'he glacier's pace
to 7, 8, and 10 ft. a day in mid-sti'eam.f The little company were a
board of geographic names and aptly baptizo<l the landmarks found on
the map, and their work is accepted as final and exact by all scientists
and specialists.

In 1891 a i)leasure party of seven, including the artist, T. J. Rich-
ardson, Mr. C. S. Johnson, a hunter of big game, two ladies, a maid

* See "Studies of Muir (Jlacier in Alaska," by Henry Fielding Reid,
National Geographic Magazine, Mnreh, 1892. "Notes (m the Muir
Glacier," by H. P. Gushing, American Gcol(»gist, October, 1891, and
March, 1893.

f The Mer de Glace advances 83 inches a day, the Aletsch 19
inches, the Svartesen 12 inches, and the Selkirk Glacier 12 inche.a.

100

GLACIER BAY.

i- 1 ■

and small boy, made the cabin a summer homo. In 1892 Prof. Reid
devoted another reason to mapping, exploring, and studying ice move-
ment.

ItiLernry of the Bay and Inlet.

The shores of Glacier Bay are densely forested for 20 miles
above the entrance. The Bear<hlec hhnuh, crests of so many terminal
moraines are low, green gardens that successively illu.'^trate the
stages of aiforestatioM. WiUou;fhhy Island, a solid limeston? mass .3J
miles long, from a half to three-quarters of a mile wide, and 1,.500
ft. high, named for the old Alaska prospector, marks (he gateway
to the glacial rcgicm. Francis Island, named for the Govern-
ment pilot, and the site of paheozoic fossil remains, lies N. W. of Wil-
loughby Island, close to the same western shore. Geikie Inlet, whii-h
opens from the W. shore just above Francis Island, holds the Gcikic
and the Wood (Lieut. C. E. S.) Glaciers at the end o^ its long rock
cutting.

Jft. La Perome, 11,300 ft., Aft. Crilhn, 15,900, and Mt. Fair-
weather, 15,500 ft., are visilde from the entrance of the bay, and the
snows of the Crillon and Fairwcather summits feed the great glaciers
that slope from their heijihts to the bay. Mt. Fairweather shows
the same summit outline as Mf. Rainier and Mt. St. Elias, and this
triple-crowned peak, the sharply cut Gah/e Mountain and the attend-
ant white host, with every foot of their elevation from sea-level to
summit visible, complete one of the sublimest mpiintain views
i'l ihe world. Of .the great"g1a<''it''S 'j^ouving^ to l^e* upper bay, the
(leikie, the IIu";li Miiher. and 'the Pacific' ♦ypi-^ aanled ;>v their first
visitor, John Mui'r,' am\ tne Wood, the Chai"pei\tie",.thc Jt-hus Hopkins,
the Rendu, antf the 'C'ftiTo^l (yyic'ifv'rsit)y Prof.«R(;i(5l. .Tlils.end of the
bay is Uj;ually «o*bIoe^{^d b"}'. iee that iimoes rai'ely, and only one steam-
er, have navigated it. There is a large bay on the F. shore, below the
mouth of Muir Inlet. 'J7ie last forest may be noted at this point, a
moss-hung, dark, mysterious place, among whose venerable Sjiruces
John Muir found his richest botanical field.

Muir Inlet and the Great Muir Glacier.

Muir Inlet, 5 miles long and If to 3 miles wide, opens on the E.
shore 20 miles above Bartlett Bay. It stretches due N. and S., tlvi
Muir Glacier walling the end with a line of ice-diffs 9,200 ft. :)r
I J mile in length, r'^ing 100 and 250 ft. from the water, and extending.

I <s :

i hi li

li 1

GLACIKR BAY.

101

it is believed, some 900 ft. below the surface of the sea in a lonp", plough-
shaped forefoot. The vast ice plain slopes back at a grade of lOo ft.
to the mile to the mountains, 10 and 13 miles distant from the inlet.
The Muir Glacier, 58° r>0' N., and 136' 5' W., drains an area of
800 square miles. The actual ice surface covers about 3^0 square
miles, the mass of it 35 miles long and 10 to 15 miles wide, lying but
a few hundred feet above sea-level. It is fed by 2(5 tributary streams,
7 of which are over a mile in width. If all their attluents were named
and counted, as in Switzerland, the Muir might boast 200 branches or
glaciers in its system. The mountain gateway, 2| miles wide, through
which it pours to the sea, is formed by spurs of Mi. Case (5,510 ft.)
and Mt. Wright (4,914 ft.) on the E., and a spur of the sharply cut
Pyramid Peak on the W. All the mountains immediately surround-
ing the glacier average from 4,000 to 6,00o ft. in height. The main
stream of the Muir Hows from the N. W., rising in neves 40 miles
distant. The main current of this magnificently crevassed and l)roken
ice pours through the great plain at a rate of 8 to 10 ft. a day. All
efforts to cross it within 10 miles back from the water front have
failed." *

Seven medial moraines stretch away in dark fan-rib lines from the
front, rising in terraces on the ice and indicating the couiso and source
of chief tributaries. Lateral moraines extend in crumbling bluffs and
gravel terraces for 3 miles down either side of the inlet.

Ships do not approach the ice wall nearer than an eighth of a mile,
because of the masses of ice fulling from its face with terrific noise
and agitation of the water, and of submarine bergs detached from the
sunken forefoot and rising to the surface with tremendous force.
Soundings of 80 and 120 fathoms have been made within 100 yards of

* Of the Norwegian glaciers, which may be most fairly used for
comparison with the Muir, the Jostcdalbrac, the largest glacier in Eu-
rope, lies 3 N. of the Muir, at an elevation of 3,00() ft. above the sea,
and covers 470 square miles. It is an ice-cap on the top of a range,
with five arms flowing down and one reaching within 150 ft. of sea-level.
The iSvmii.sen, the show glacier of the Norway coast, H N. of tiie
Muir, and on the line of the Antic Circle, is an ice mantle 44 miles
long and 12 to 25 miles wide, occui)y:ng a plateau 4,0(»o ft. above the
sea. Tiie arm in Melii, visited by North Cape tourists, does not reach
tide-water. The Swiss glaciers, all lyaig from 4,ouO and «»,o(m» ft.
above the sea are like those of Mt. Rainier, and in no way to be com-
pared to the Muir, 20 of whose arms each exceed the Mer de (Jlace in
size.

.;■"

102

GLACIER BAY.

the ice wall. Every break reveals surfaces of intensest clear blue ice,
which quickly weathers to opa(|ue whiteness and coarse granular snow.
The enormous pressure condenses the original snow flakes to this clear,
transparent ice, which is often umber and darkest green with morainal
matter. Bergs 200 ft. in length, 50 and 70 ft. high, only one seventh
of a berg being visible, are often seen near the front, but break apart
and grind together as they sail down tlie bay, and avalanches of loose
particles cover the bay with " mush ice " for miles.*

Steamers usually anchor one fourth of a mile below the E. end of
the ice wall. P. C. S. S. Co.'s ships usually remain six or eight hours,
taking advantage of the tide in entering and leaving the bay when
possible and landing their passengers. Vessels of British register can-
not land passengers, owing to U. S. customs regulations. A well-
built trail and board walk lead over the bluff and the quicksands of
glacial mud in the moraine to the surface of the ice, which is there a
rolling white prairie, over which a regiment of cavalry might deploy,
and where future tourists will travel on sleds, or even horses. There
are no dangers to recjuire the ice-axe, rope, creepers, or extraordinary
costumes, unless the traveller goes out of his way and seeks them in
the crevassed regions of mid-stream. Rubber shoes are a necessity,
but are quickly cut by the sharp ice crystals.

The Dirt Glacier, filling the canon between Mt. Case and Mt.
Wright, is a treacherous place full of sink-holes and quicksands of
glacier mud, where boulders reel and sink beneath one, and the fine
" mineral paste and mountain meal " make a sticky, slippery com-
pound that hardens like cement. It is worth walking far out on the
ice to see the splendid White Glacier, 4 miles long and a half mile
wide, sweeping from the E. side of Mt. Case with a black serpent of a
medial moraine curving down its dazzling slope. The eastern arm has
almost no motion, and melting 10 ft. of its surface each year is fast
uncovering nunataks, or it^lands in the ice.

The granite knobs peeping through the ice abreast of Mt. Case, 3
miles from the beach, are known as the " Dumpllnf/s " ; the red granite
nunatak, a mile beyond, at the edge of the swift-moving crevassed ice,
is the tourist's " Mouse,'' 800 ft. in height. The " TiV//," 4 miles across,
on the opposite bank of the raging ice torrent, is 1,855 ft. Both are
easily climbed by crevices or canons in their sides and command niag-

* Captain C. L. Hooper notes that in the Pacific arctic, ofl" the Si-
berian and Alaska coast, 20 ft. is the average of the highest ice met.

GLACIER BAY.

103

nificent views of the glacier, its branches, the surrounding mountains,
and the inlet. The Mouse is easily reached on steamer days by good
walkers, who, keeping well to the right until past the Dirt Glacier,
may follow an air-line to its base without having to turn aside for a
crevasse. There are lakes, blooming ei)ilobium, and tattered driftwood
in its recessea. The whole surface is brilliantly polished, and ava-
lanches of pebbles are freipient. A cairn on the highest point is
Prof. Reid's ,ig station II, and cards of climbers will be found in
tins and bottles. A field glass will show the ancient spruce-trees grow-
ing on Tree Moment, 2,700 ft., and 9 miles due E., a " Foret," con-espond-
ing to the "Jardin" of the Mer de (ilace. The triple-crowned J//.
Young is 16 miles distant, and on its other side are the feeders of the
Davidson (ilacier in Lynn (.'anal. Emiicott Luke at its base, and Berg
Jbike N. of it, are miniatures of the glacier's inlet front, replicas of the
Margellen Zee in the Aletsch Glacier which moved Prof. Tyndall to
such raptures. These lakes are not seen from the Mouse, but a
glass shows the Girdled Glacier. The extraordinary moraine with
two ends and no present beginning runs from the Mouse to the
brink of the ice-cliffs on Berg Ltike, a glacial phenomenon discovered
by Prof. Reid. Snow Dome, lied Ml., Black Mt., and GaMe Mt., are
easily identified on the N.,and magnificent ice falls, chains of nnnataks
and eddies over uncovering islands, may be studied, while at one's feet
is the broken, tempestuous ice-stream, so evidently in action that one
listens for its roar and to see the great ice waves comb over and scat-
ter their spray. The silence is profound, and the north wind that
blows perpetually with the current of the ice-stream makes no sound.

The Morse, Cushing, McBride, Casement, and Adams
Glaciers were named by Prof. Keid as a deserved recognition of the
excellent work of those members of his staff of 1890 in exploring these
main tributaries of the Muir.

l¥.

• hi

)

The Lateral Moraines.

It is an easy walk up the east beach to the base of the ice-cliffs
whose wings override the gravel-bed of an older moraine, and hold
many spruce and alder twigs. As f silling bergs send great waves
across the inlet, it is a little dangerous to follow the beach at high tide.
Six Hoonah hunters were swept from the narrow footway by a berg
wave a few seasons since, and incautious visitors have many times been
drenched knee deep. There are (juicksands at the water's edge, and

>.. ii<'

104

GLACIER HAY.

: i

the crumbling bluffrt and melting ice-cliffs launch tons of sand, boulders
and ice-blocks without warning. A roaring torrent emerges from an
ice canon at the end of the beach and prevents (1S9 1-92- 9,S) access
to caves at the base of the ice wall as formerly. Many suliglacial
streams boil up at the base of these cliflTs, and these fierce torrents till
the air with a steady undertone like the booui of the Yosemite Fall.
The tide-fall of 15 ft. leaves a dark-blue base-line by which one may esti-
mate the heights above.

A considerable stream, the £!ost River, drains the extreme flank of
the glacier, and reaches the inlet a half mile below the ice. On its
farther bank there is a large flat covered witli driftwood, mainly
spruce, and in hollows in the gravel terraces there are the stumps of
large spruce-trees, whose fringed lil»res tell of an overswecping iee
sheet. Streams are uncovering other buried spruce groves, and one
such is disclosed on the beach below high-tide mark. Shrimps, shells
of spider crabs, and sea-weed are found on this beach. The whole
perpendicular front of Mt. Wright is scored and grooved to a height
of 2,000 ft., which, with the spruce and alder stumps found in the
older moraine beneath the ice-wings, prove that the glacier has ad-
vanced and receded in times past with diflferent climatic conditions.
The whole glacial basin was possibly once a forest, and salmon streams
frolicked in all the tributary cafions. At another time there was one
vast sea of ice over all the region, and the battlemented summit of Mt.
Wright was but a nunatak.

On the Wed Moraine the draining stream is much larger, and a
tributary has uncovered a buried spruce forest whose stumps are 10
and 15 ft. in height. The rounded arch of the tunnel from which the
stream flowed in 188^ has fallen in, and it is a long and wearisome ap-
proach to the surface of the ice on that side.

THE RATE OF RECESSION.

Rain weathers and breaks away the ice most rapidly, and during a
close watch maintained bv the writer in July and August, 1891, it did
not seem that the stages of the tide had any connection with the fall
of ice. On many warm, clear days, when a iiot sun fell upon the ice
front for 16 and 18 hours continuously, there was no sound. After
days of silence came tremendous displays, one quarter and one third of
the long wall falling away at once. Tliese falls often occurred in the
middle of the night and frequently at daybreak, contraction in the
colder hours seeming to free most bergs.

By photographic evidence the glacier receded more than 1,000 yards

Ca.ACIKR BAY.

105

ig a

did

fall

ice

ifter

Hoi

the

lards

between Prof. Wright's visit of 18H0 and Prof. Reid's first oarop in
1890. Photographs taken by the writer in 1891 showed a retreat of
300 yards in the next year. Prof. Muir recognized a retreat of a mile
between his visits of 18H0 and 18'.K>, and the writer was as much be-
wildered by the marked changes occurring between 1883 and 1890.

The \8ccnt of Mt. Wright, to the Hanging (riardeus and
Mountnin-C*oat Pasture!^.

By crossing the East River, following the tributary stream that de-
scends the steep ravine on the right, and climbing by the boulder-filled
crevices on its north wall the tourist may reach the long spur of JWt.
Wright. Professor Reid's cairn and flag Station E, at the brink over-
looking the glacier's front w all, conniu", ;1 a magnificent view. Staticm E
may be reached in two and a half hour- from the landing, when the bridge
near the cabin allows East River to be crossed at that point. An easy
slope through knee-deep lupin-beds, over acres of bryanthus, butter-
cups, forget-me-nots, violets, blue-bells, gentians, geums, asters, and
golden-rod leads from Station E to a 3,000-foot terrace extending
south a couple of miles and commanding views of all the inlet and
lower bay, out to the Chichagoff shore. This region is the favourite pas-
ture of mountain-goats ; hoof-mark^ and tufts of wool are seen all the
way, ptarmigan run beside one, and marmots whistle on every side.
During the weeks the writer spent at Muir Glacier in 1891, the hunters
kept the camp larder well supplied from this lofty game preserve. The
view from this second terrace (3,000 ft.). Flag Station V, is best in the
early morning, when Mts. Crillon, La Perouse, and Fa inveather are clearly
cut on the western sky. The Fairweather group hides any view of Mt.
St. Elias, 100 miles distant. Station E commands the finest view of
Mt. Case's dark, red-purple, limestone mass, its velvety patches of
vegetation and its jewelled glacier gleaming high on its shoulder.

By photographs taken from Station E, in 1890-'91-'92, Professor

Reid has been able to note very closely the rate of recession. Tourists

sufficiently interested in glacial phenomena to climb to that outlook

with cameras may assist this study by forwarding such pictures, with

dates attached, to Professor H. F. Reid, care of Secretary of Xational

Geographic Society, Washington, D. C. Photographs from V, from M, on

the beach close to Muir's cabin, and from A B on the bluff S. of the

mouth of West River on the west side of the Inlet, will also assist in the

record.

Auroras, Mirage, and the Phantom Citi/, — Brilliant auroral displavs
8

106

GLACIER BAY.

arc often witnessed in August, nnd mirages ficciucntly appear. Hy
refraction the ice-floes arc often niafjiiitied int:. iee-cliffs 1,000 ft.
high, apparently barring a ship's retreat southward. The so-ealled
Phantoui or Silent ('ity was a hoax of Dick Willoughhy's in 1889,
Tliousands of prints from a cloudy negative of Bristol, England, were
sold, upon his statement that he had seen and photographed the city
from (ihicier Bay.

Amateur photographers will find it almost impj)ssihle to secure a
sharp negative of a mirage. Tlio lines of glimmering iee-cliflfs leave
no definition or shadow, waver and fade (piickly. The refiected light
fiom these glaciers and snow-fields misleads even ])rofessi()nal photog-
raphers to over-expose their negatives. The smaller stops in a lens
are often sufficient for an instantaneous exposure, and such exposures
may be successfully made with ordinary stops on cloudy days. In
weak sunlight the lens should be stopped down, and in the developiug-
roora the bromide should be in hand.

On the mainland Shore of Cross Sound.

. Dundas Bay and Taylor Bail, W. of Glacier Bay, contain tide-
Avater glaciers and are favourite seaiing-grounds of the natives, who
bitterly resented the incursion of Tsimsian seal-poachers in 1880.
The Tsimsians were driven oif, but threatened to return with 90
canoes and exterminate the Hoonahs. By the intervention of Captain
Beardslee, U. S. N., and Dr. Powell, Indian Commissioner for British
Columbia, an impending war of all the coast tribes was averted, and
the Tsimsians were threatened with severe punishment if any more
poaching should bo reported. The glacier in Taylor Bay was visited
by Mr. Charles Taylor and Lieutenant C. E. S. Wood in 1877, and
explored by John Muir in 1880. Its front and slope are seen at long
range from ships passing through Cross Sound.

The Chichagofl' Island Shores.

Chichagoif Island, named for the Russian navigator who first
attempted to find a Northeast Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific,
is least known of the greater islands of the archipelago. It is about 70
miles long, with an average breadth of 40 miles. Cross Sound, lead-
ing in from the ocean on the N., was named by Captain Cook on Holy
Cross Day, ^lay 3, 1778. Fort Alfhorp, within its entrance, was Van-
couver's anchorage for several weeks in 1793. Idaho Inlet, E. of

f;LA(JIER BAY.

107

first
acific,
ut 70
lead-
Holy
Van-
E. of

Port Althorp, was discovered by Captain Jainos Carroll, July, 1S8;{,
upon Dick Willou<iliby's assurance that it was u brnnd forty-fatliotn
channel leading to the open ocean X. of Salisl)uiy Sound, froi|U('iitly
traversed by himself. The Iihilio ran agrmiud a few miles from the
entrance in waters alive with salmon and tlounders, bctwi-eii shores
where deer wandered in plain si^ht, and many bear-tracks could be
seen. A saltery biult in 1884 was closed after a few years.

The Iloonahs (Noon, "the north wind," and /'///, 'Make"), iidi!il)it-
ing ChiehagotT Island and the shores of Icy Strait, have lu'en loiijrest
preserved from contact with white civilizatioti. They have liad a
bad name from earliest times. In I8t)2 they seized the II. 15. Co.'s
ship hibouchere at Swanson's Harbour, imprisoned the captain and
crew, and looted the vessel completely. It was not the 11. H. (Jo.'s
policy to retaliate and injure the fur-trade, and they passed by Hoonah
anchorages for several seasons. Aml)assadors bes«tu<i;ht the resumjv
tion of trade, and when the "tire canoe" came again the whole tribe
joined in the Aater parade, the songs and dances of peace, filled the
air with the eagle down of peace, and carpeted the deck witli potlatch
otter-skins. In 18(57 the chief in his war-canoes met the V. S. revenue
cutter Lincoln, but was not allowed on board. " You come Icy Strait.
Me give you big fight ! " the chief bawled in Chinook as he left.

The Iloonahs numbered about 1,000 in ISO'.i. In 1880 there were
908 enumerated, and in 1890 only 690. Their chief village of Kom-
tokton in Port Frederick, has been known as Hoonah P. (). since the
mission and Government day school was estal)lished. It nundjen'd
438 inhabitants in 1890. The smaller village of Klookukhoo has but
15 inhabitants. Lieutenant C. E. S. Wood, in the Century Magazine,
July, 1882, and Captaia Heardslee, in his Forest and Stream letters of
1878-'79, have given interesting descriptions of Komtokton, the Iloo-
nahs, and their legends.

The fiWQ&i hdlihut (jrounds in the archipelago arc those o'T i' »int
Adolphus.

As soon as the ice breaks, in March, a hundred canoes are seen
fishing among the floes. Captain Heardslee aiid one other angler
'.•aught 47 halibut averaging 40 pounds each in one hour in July, after
the regular halibut season. One Hoonah managed the canoe, clubbed
and gatted the fish, caught with salmon bait and native tackle. Tlin-
git halibut hooks, lines, and clubs are njost ingeniously antl often
richly decorated. The lines are made of the giant kelp {ncrcocyntis),
which often grows to a length of 300 ft. in tide-swept channels. It
is soaked and bleached in fresh water, and then stretched, dried,
smoked, and worked until it is as firm as leather but i)Hable as silk.
The foot-long hook is cut from the heart of spruce or cedar roots —

i <

108

FROM CHATHAM STRAIT TO THE OCKAN.

for the halibut niii (Ictcci tlu- tiisio of resin — and this hook as well as
the chib are carvnl with the owner's tot«'ni and otiicr si^Miitieant do-
vices bound to ensure the fislieriuan's hick. With sucli taekle, a lono
fisherman can liaul u\> and ((uiet even a 'Jnn.poiuKU'r ; but chicken
l»ulil)ut, weighing liU or 10 pounds, are tlie ciioice, and 70-i)ounderH the
average.

Tiicrc is a canoe portage from Port Frederick to the Tcnakec Pas-
HiKjr, leading into Chatham Strait. There are hot sulphur springs on
the passage, long resorted to by the natives, and a chosen winter camp-
ground of miners. There are also hot sulphur springs on the W,
coast of fhichagofT, l)etween Cape Edward and Lisianski Strait,
strong sulphur water bubbling up in natural rock pools on the beach.

From Chatham Strait to the Ocean by Peril or Fo-

gibshi Straits.

Peril Straits, the Tlingits' Kon-lc-trhika (a dangerous channel),
40 miles in length, be'vl ia a great bow from Chatham Strait to Salis-
bury Sound, separating Chichagott" and liaranof Islands. It is a famous
landscape reach, and at the two narrows there are strong tidal rapids.

The east half of the straits is a bioad, smooth water-way for 18
miles, narrowing beyond the opening of Hoonah Sound on the north
shore. Deatlmuii's Reach is the smooth stretch on the Baranof
side before reaching Povrrotuoi (Turnabout) Islond, a symmetrical
green island that blocks the pass. On one side of it is the true Po-
ffibshi, or Peril Pointy and op|)osite is the PoisoUy or Pernicious Cove,
where one himdred of Baranof's Aleut hunters were killed by eating
poisonous nmssels in 1799. For this reason the Russians as often
called them Pn(/oobnof/, or Pernicious Sti'aits. For the next 3 miles the
half-mile-wide channel is swept by strong tidal currents, the tides from
Chatham Strait and the open ocean meeting at these First or North-
ern Rapids. A half hour of slack water intervenes between the
hours when the tides race at eight and ten knots an hour, and vessels
are timed to pass within that limit of safety.

The straits widen beyond the Rapids, and inlets open magnificent
vistas from the main cafion, whose steep shores are densely forested
from tide-line to the snow-line of the mountains. At the Second
or Southern Rapids, 12 miles beyond, the channel "at its narrowest
part is scarce 100 yards in width, and is rendered very dangerous by
the sunken rocks over which the tide rushes iu its strength with the

FROM CHATHAM STUAIT TO TIIF, nCKAN.

100

Hoiind of II roiii'iii^ ciitaract, the ciirrcnt oftoii riiiinitip inoro tbtin ten
knots an hour. . . . For 8 miles tlio nuvifjiition is the most (liinj^'tToiiH
of any in soutlioastorn Alaska, except Koot/iiaiioo Inlet, owinj; to the
strong tiile and the sunken roeks that ohstiuc this passaj^e."

Baranof tmveiseil these straits in 1801, and lian^'-dorff wrote an
account of his ext'itinji run with the tide in lH(tr>. These sti aits were
Burveyed and hu(»yed by Captain Coghlan in 1H8|, antl since tln'ii thero
have not been any such disasters as hefel the U. S. S. Wai/nniln and
the mail steamer kurchi. Tourists goinf/; through at high-water slack,
when the current Itoils sh>wly, do not see nor hear the lioi'e 4 ft. high
rushing hy, eddi«'s sucking down, waves Itoiling up, spar-lnioys borne
under, and kelp snapping in the current, as at tiie turn of the tides.

Salisbury Sound was named for Tortlock's friend, the noble
Manpiis of Salisbury, in 1787. The Spaniard (Jaliano anchore<l there,
in the Puerto d«' los Hemedlos, in 177n. Captain Cook called it the Bay
of Islands in 177H, and the Russians mimed it K'nkachefT Strait. The
peak of Mt, St. Klias has be<'n seen from its mouth. St. John the Bap-
tist Bay, at its east«'rn end, holds beaches and bliilTs of marble and a
vein of lignite discovered by Profes.sor Blake in I8ti7.

Neva Strait, leading from Sali<l)in-y to Sitka Sound, was little used
in Russian days because of the sunken rocks and ledges in White-
stone Narrows, and vessels went aroimd Kru/oflf Island to avoid
them. Surveys have made the coiu'se |)lain and safe, but as it can only
be run at a certain stage of the tide by large stcanu'rs, a few hours'
anchorage is somi.'times enforced.

Nakwaslna FitHmge surrounds Ilalleck Island, and is a great resort
of winter sportsmen. It was recommended as a site of a new military
post to which the garrison of Sitka should be removed. Qrutisinski/,
" the place where qvass was brewed," is the local name for the level
meadows and the hay ranch nuiintained by the Ru>sian Company, aiul
occupied since 1867 by American settlers. Bcchlvt Isbtnd is an un-
mistakable landmark at the southern entrance of Nakwaslna.

The entrance to Katliana Bay is 2 ndles S., and within it there
is another hay ranch and a cabin resorted to by sportsmen for liear,
deer, duck, geese, grouse, and swan shooting in the winter. This Kat-
liansky camp is 3 miles in from the entrance, and there is a sharply
cut pyramidal peak as landmark at the end of the valley.

The Bay of Starri Gavan, or Old Sitka, 2 miles below Katliana
Bay, is the site of Baranofs first settlement, the Fort Aichangel Gabi-iel
established in 1799 and destroved bv the natives in 1802. It is 3 ndles

■Hi

1 !

Hi;

1 I

110

FROM CHATHAM STRAIT TO THE OCEAN.

N. of the pi-esent fMtka, on the E, shore of SiCka Sound, which is 14
miles lon<; and from to 7 miles broad, an island-studded expanse
sheltered between the Kriv'^ff and Baranot shores.

Bnrtinof Island and the Russian Settlements.

Lisian^ki, who first surveyed them, named Baranof, Chichagoff,
Kruzoff, and Jacobi's Islands, a.id eharled them in 1805 a? the Siika
h;laTids. Baranof, best known of any island in the archipelago, is
over 120 miles long and about ;^() nules wide. All its shore-line has
not been surveyed, the interior is >mkno\vn, and nc one has yet (1898)
crossed it. There is a cannery at Red Bay on the S. Vv'. shore, but
the only other settlements are in the immediate neighbourhood of
Ritka.

The Russians reached the Pacific shores of Siberia in 1689, Vitus
Bering', b;, connnission ol Peter the Great, discovered the strait sepa-
rating Asia and America in 17118, and in '.741, at the behest of the
Empress Anne, started to lind Vasco da Gama's fabled laii'i. Ilis two
ships separated in a storm and fog about lutitude 46 N. Bering s.iiling
N. K. rciiclied Kiiyak Island on St. Fliaf Dav, July 17, 1741, saw and
named tiie p;reat nu)untaiii, louched at ihe Shumagins, and was ship-
wrecked on the ('omandorski Islands, The commander died, but the
scurvy-stricken crew survived, reach' d Kamschatka with the j)elts of the
sea-otters on whose flesh they h.i(i 'ived, and stimulated traders to ec i-
iinued voyages in search of such f ir,->. Tsehirikow, reaching the coast
near Sitka, sent a boat's crew in to '"ceonnoitre the bay; at the end of
six days sent a search party for them, and left after a th".'e weeks' stay
short of fourteen men and all their boats. The defiant behaviour of
canoe-loads of natives that paddled out to the sliip, the din on shore
and columns of smctke, pointed to some savage sacrifice at the base of
his Mt. St. Lazaria.

In 178;{, Gregory ShelikotT, a rich Siberian merchant, established a
post on Kadiak Island, and joined to him Alexander Baranof, a Ru^-
sian meicliant who hail entered the Siberian trade and been ruined by
the loss cf his caravans. Baranof pushed the enterprise in every way,
and in May, 1799, renched Sitka Sound .ind Ijuilt a stockaded post 3
miles N. of the present town. An imperial charter with monopoly of
the American possessions for twenty years had been obtained by
Resanof, the son-in-law of Shelikoff, and a court councillor, and Bar-
anof was inadi- chief manager tf the Russian American Fur Company, in
which nine rival Siberian firms were consolidated and members of the
imperial family were stockholders.

Tlie fort at Sitka was destroyed in 1802, and all save a few Rus-
sians, who found refuge on a British trading-ship, were murdered.
Baranof was abseiit at the time, but returned in August, 1804, with
8(10 Aleut and Chugaeh hunters. The natives f^.cd at sight, and he

3' I <

flV,

1)V

{ar-

I'ieii' frnin ,'Cn'l of Sniimvftr Hills.

FROM CHATHAM STRAIT TO THE OCEAN.

Ill

went back through the archipelago destroying villages everywhere.
The Sitkans entrenched themselves on Katlean's Rock, or the Kckoi^r —
"a hill at the end of a peninsula" — and at the mouth oi Indian River.
Captain Liaiansky had arrived meanwhile with a man-of-war, and in
two days captured the Kekoor, and tbiu' days later the river fort ca-
pitulated, the occupants fleeing in the night, however, killing dogs and
strangling l)al)es lest any st»und betray them. \\\ Baranofs advice Ke-
sanof went to Japan and vaiidy attempted to open trade to secure sup-
plies for the new colony. liaranof c(mtemi)lated building a fort on the
Columbia, but through Resanof opened trade with the Spanish colonies
in California. Resanof, whose wife had died, paid cou'-t to Donna
Concepcion Arguello, daughter of the alcalde at San Francisco Hay ;
they were betrothed, and Resanof died in Siberia while <m his way to
Petersburg to obtain the Czar's consent to the marriage. Raranof
was suspicious of John Jacob Astor's fort on the Columbia and his
many ships, and distrusted the New York trader's offer of a perma-
nent alliance of interest?, which was cut short by the War of I8l'2.

Rcranof established an agricultural colony at litnhya Bit\i in the
reilwood country north of San Francisco, and the mills and lands were
tended until sold to General John A. Sutter for ;^;j<>,0(i0, a few years
before the discovery of gold in Caiifornia. An Hawaiian colony ))ros-
pered for a time, and Baranof planned the annexation of tlujse islands,
but, after eighteen years of service, he was suminarilv deposed, his
son-in-law, a young naval officer, took cliarge, and until isijl the cliirf
managers were naval officers, who filled five-year terms at a salai > of
$5,000 a year, with a residence and many pcrijr' tes furnished by the
company. Baranof, ^nnok^ or the master, as "Mngits called him,
died in Batavia on his way liome to Russia, Apiil, .ftl'.t. Rt-anor in
his journal, Langsdorff, Lisian.sky, and Washington Irvinu have pic-
tured this able tyrant and his surroundings, and the wrelchc \ comli-
tion of the Aleuts he impressed as hunters, and the prowiixrlnniks or
indentured Siberian labourers whom he kept so deeply in debt that
they were never free to leave. None of the chief managers succeed-
ing Baranof were able to make as large returns as he, and after re-
newed leases the company saw the advisability of closing out, and the
Russian Government the disadvantage of holding such r..inote depend-
encies.

The Russian chief managers were :
Gregor Shelikoff, August .':!, 1784, to July 27, 1791.
Alexander Baranof, July '27. 1791, to January 11, 1818.
Lieutenant Yanovsky for Captain llagemeister, January 11, 1818,
to January, 1821.

Captain Mouravieff, Jantiary, 1821, to January, 182»>.
Captain Chistiakoflf, January, 1820, to January, 1831.
Baron Wrangell, January, 1831, to January, 1830.
Captain KupreanofF, 1836-1810.

i I
• 1

i i
il

112 FROM CHATHAM STRAIT TO THE OCEAN.

Lieutenant-Commander Etholin, 1840-1845.
Captain Michael Tebenkoff, 1845-1850,
Lieutenant-Commander Rosenberg, 1851-1853.
Captain Vocvotsky, 1854-1859.
Captain Furuhelm, 1859-1864.

The military governor, Prince Demitrius Maksoutoff, 18G4, to Octo-
ber 18, 1807.

Baron Wrangcll, the arctic explorer, was a diplomatic agent to
Mexico as well as chief munager at Sitka ; and after Captain Moui-a-
vieff, Captain Etholin was the great constructor and most enterprising
manager. Ilis was the golden age of the colony. Captain Tebenkoff
made thorough surveys ; and Kadin, an Aleut from the parish school,
drew the 38 charts, and Terentieff, another Aleut, engraved on copper
the maps of the great atlas of 1848, which is authority where not suc-
ceeded by the U. S. Coast Survey's recent work. Prince .Maksoutoff,
the only " governor," was detailed toward the end of the fur company's
last lease, when their unwillingness to continue the charter undei the
same burdensome conditions made it probable that the Czar would
have to govern this like his other jnovinces, in>«tead of farming it out.
The approaching ex[)iration of that prohtable lease caused him to seek
a purchaser for these remote possessions, so impossible to defend in
case of war, and so directly adjoining British territory.

THE PURCHASE OF RUSSIAN AMERICA.

In 1844-'45 the Emperor Nicholas offered Russian America to the
United States for the mere cost of transfer, if IVesident Polk would
maintain the United States line at 54 4o', and shut England out from
any frontage on the Pacific. In 1854 it was oflered to the United
States, and again in 1S5<I, when .^5,000,000 was refused. From 1H()1 to
18tj(5 survey parties of the W. U. T. traversed Alaska, choosing a route
for a telegraph line to Europe via Bering Strait. The success of the
Atlantic cable in ISOO, after the failure of 185'.i, ended i!ie project, and
the line ccmjpleted to the Skeena River was abandoned. A California
commercial syndieate proposed the leasing and then the purchasing of
the country in 18(14 and 1S(U), aiul the project was informally consid-
ered at St. Petersburg. Secretary Seward deeply aj)pieciated Russia's
tacit alliance in sending its fleets to the harbours of San Francisco and
New York in \HiVS, and keeping them there at that critical time when
France and England were on the jxtint of recognizing the Richmond
government. Upon an intiniatitm that the Czar wished to sell Ru<<ian
America to any nation but Englaiul, Secretary Seward opened negotia-
tions with Baron Stoeckl in February, 18t')7. A treaty of purchase was
sent to the Senate March 30, 18157, reported April Oth, ratified Ma\ 28th
by 30 yeas to 2 nays, and proclaimed by President Johnson .b.ne 20,
1867. Senator Charles Sunmer, who especially championed the pur-
chase, suggested Alaska — the name the natives gave to Captain Cook

FROM CHATHAM STRAIT TO THE OCEAN.

113

ii's
Ind
pen
ind

an
|ia-

ir-
ok

— for the name of tlie mainland. It was intended to make General
Garfield a first ( 'overnor of the Territory, and later divide it into six
Territories.

THE TRANSFER OF RUSSIAN AMERICA TO THE UNITED STATES.

Immediate military occupation was decided upon. General Lovell
H. Rousseau, as commis.»ioner on the ])art of the United States, and
Captains Pestschour(»ff and Koskul on the part of Russia, met at Sitka,
Oct(/l)er 18, 186Y. Three men-of-war, the 0.s.siprc^ Jdmedowu^ and licsaai,
and General Jefferson ('. Davis and '250 rejiular troops were in waitinj:,
and at half past three o'clock that afternoon Prince Maksoutoif and
Vice-Governor (iardsish(yff and the connnissionors met the United States
officers at the foot of the Governor's fia<i;->taff. Double national salutes
were fiicd by the mcn-of war and the land battery as the Rus: 'an flaj;
was lowered and the American fla<^ raised. Captain PestschouroflF ad-
vanced as the Russian flaj; fell, and said : " General Rousseau, by au-
thority of his Majesty the Emperor of all the Russias, I transfer to
you, the agent of the United States, all the territory and dominion now
possessed by his Majesty on the continent of America and in the adja-
cent islands, according to a treaty made between those two powers."
(ieneral Rousseau accepted, with similai- brief phrases, and his young
son raised the new flag slowly. Prince Maksoutoff gave a dinner ^ind
ball that night, the ship])ing was dressed, and fireworks were disjjlayed.

There was an immediate exodus of all Russians able to leave, the
(Jovei'nment offering free transj)ortation to and homes in the Anioor
settlements. The Julian gave way to the Gregorian calendar over-
night, and a day was dropped fron> Sitka's records to right the difference
of twenty-foui" hours between the liussian day coming eastward from
Moscow and our day coming westwaid fi'oni (irecnwich.

During the summer of 1867 Prof. (Jeorge Davidson and eight scien-
tists made a recomioissance of southeastern Alaska, and their report
with Senator Sumner's speech, were the strongest arguments Secretary
Seward offered in his "AV/.s.s/aH yl/nf>7r«" (Fortieth Congress, second
session. House of Representatives, Ex. Doc. 177), submitted at the con-
vening of Congress in December. There was bitter opposition to ap-
propriating the $7,200,000 gold e(|ual to $1(>,000,0(>0 in paper at that
time, to pay for the territory so «<iimmar"!y taken |)ossession of; but (m
July 14, 1808, the House agreed by a vote of '.»8 against 49, and the draft
was handed Daron Stoeckl. Corruption in the i)urchase was alleged, and
a winter of investigation followed the winter of contest and ridicule.
In 1869 ex-Secretary Seward visited Alaska, was first a guest of Mayor
Dodge, and went off to Prof. Davidson's observatory in theChilkat coun-
try. Returning by way of Kootznahoo, Mr. Seward wis the guest of
General Davis on the Kekoot\ and addressed the citizens in the Lutheran
church. He visited the Taku Glacier, the mining camps on the Stikine
and Fort Wrangell, and was more than ever convinced of the great ad-
vantages g lined by the purchase of Alaska. Lady Franklin reached
Sitka by tiie troop-ship Kewbem in 1870, and with her niece Miss

114

FROM CHATHAM STRAIT TO THE ()(n<:AN.

CraciOft was a ^uest of the commandant on the Kcknor. The dis-
covery of gold in 1871 lent an excitement to garrison life, and army
pay-vouchers were sunk in mining experiments at Sitka as protitlessly
as navy pay-vouchers were poured into Juneau prospect-holes ten years
later.

Alaska was at first a separate military department, General J. C.
Davis commanding, with garrison . t Sitka, Fort T<mgass, Fort Wran-
gell, Kodiak, Fort St. Nicholas in Cook's Inlet, and a detail on the Seal
Islands. Eight officers succeeded (Jeneral Davis at Sitka, after Alaska
became a part of the Department of the Columbia, and June 14, 1877,
Sitka, the last garrison, was vacated, and " all control of the military
depai'tment over affairs in Alaska " ceased.

f! : 1 .

■

AX ABANDONED TERRITORY.

Within a few months after the troops left Sitka, the Indians had de-
stroyed all Government property outside the stockade and threatened a
general massacre. Appeals to Washington for jnotection were un-
heeded. The residents were besieged in the old fur warehouse in
Fel)ruary. H. B. M.'s Oxprci/, Captain Holmes A'Court, was at Ksqui-
niault, when a last desperate appeal came to Victoria, and without
orders or instructions hurried north, arriving from the ocean as a great
war party was coming in from Peril Strait for the final attack. The
residents attempted to raise the IJritish flag and implore annexation
and protection l)y England, but were prevented by Michael Travers,
Duke of Japonski, an ex-sailor of the United States navy. Captain
A'Court lemained until a revenue cutter and a man-of-war arrived.

A man-of-war has been continuously detailed to service in south-
eastern Alaska ever since, and until the establishment of civil govern-
ment such commanding ollicers were virtually naval governors and the
ships Jamestown, Wachusctt, Adams, and Phita the seat of government.
Captain Lester A. Beardslee, whose reports (Forty-sixth Congress, second
session, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 145, and Forty-seventh Congress, first ses-
sion, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 71) are the most valuable contributions to
Alaskiana since the transfer, was succeeded by Captains (Jlass, Merri-
man, Coghlan, and Nichols.

Thirty bills providing a form of government for Alaska were intro-
duced between the transfer iuid the passage of Senator Harrison's bill,
May 13, 1884, which gave the nondescript tract the skeleton of civil gov-
ernment ; a governor, district judge, marshal, clerk, and commissioners ;
with right to enter mineral claims, but distinctly withholding the general
land laws. Attempts toward securing representation at Washington
failed, and the invitation to join in the Columlnan Expositioji on a foot-
ing with other Territories was the first civil recognition given the so-
called district, and the admission of delegates to tlie National Conven-
tions at Minneapolis and Chicago in 18*.>2 the first political privilege.
" Alaska for the Alaskans " is vehemently claimed as a fit rule in execu-
tive appointments.

The Territorial Governors have been : John H. Kinhead, of Nevada,

aiTKA AND VICINITY.

115

May, 188-t, to September, 1885 ; A. P. Swineford, of Mic'hi}:;im, Septem-
ber, 1885, to June, 1889; Lyman E. Knapp, of Vermont, June, 1889.

Tlie Russian archives, manuscript journals, records, \of^n, and ac-
count-books were transferred from Sitka to the State Department at
Washington in 186V, and, with Tlkhmenleff's history of the colony, offer
much of interest to those reading Russian text and script.

Sitka, the Capital of the Territory of Alaska.

Sitka, the capital and seat of government of the Territory of Alaska,
is situated on the W. coast of Baranof Island. It is the othcial resi-
dence of the (irovernor. United States District Judge, and othor Territorial
officers, and had a population of 1,188 in l.soo, composed of '298 whites,
869 natives, and 31 Chinese. Sitka is the home port for the U. S. man-
of-war detailed for protective duty in these waters, and its marines are
quartered on sliore.

The town is built on level land at the mouth of Ind'Kin River at the
foot of 3/t. Verstovol (3,216 ft.). Lincoln, the main street, extends
from the (iovernment wharf to the old Russian saw-mill, and the (rov-
ernor's Walk, a l)each road built by the Russians, continues to the I'oint,
a half mile distant. A large parade-ground fronts the harbour. A gran-
ite monument at its centre is the U. S. Astnmomical Station (latitude
57° 02' N., and longitude 185° 19' W.). Mail steamers remain twenty-
four hours, and excursion steamers ma'ic shorter st.iy. Ships' time is
one hour in advance of local time, wriich tourists should rememl)v''r. The
chief objects of interest are the so-called " Ca;-tle," or old residence of
the Russian Fur Company's chief managers, the 'reek cathedral church,
the Indian village, the block-houses and Russian cemetery, the Sitka
Mission and Industrial School, the Sitka Museum, and the Park along
the banks of Indian River. There are several traders' stores with curio
departments, and private dealers in curios offer interesting ami very ex-
pensive souvenirs. The Alaska totem spoon was designed by the late
PVederick Schwatka, and two native silversmiths make luiique silver tro-
l)hie3. The spoon mania has always flourished in Alaska, and the Ilaidas'
carved goat-horn spoons are real works of art. Spoon-polishiug is a
fashion of every tourist season.

The Barracks and Cusiom-IIousc at the right of the wharf were built
by the Russians, and the barracks building is the Territorial jail and
court-house, with apartments above for civil officers. A long flight of
steps leads to the Castle, as Americans have called it since 1867, crown-
ing a rocky eminence 80 ft. in height. Baranof first occupied a leaky

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116

BITKA AND VICINITY.

two- roomed ciUtin at the foot of Kiitleaii'.s Hock, wlicre the hnrrucks or
jail kitchens stand. Later he built a block-house on the height, which
was burned. Governor Kupreanoff built a large mansion, which was
nearly comideted at the time of Sir Edward Belcher's visit, 1837. It
was destroyed by the great earthquake of 1847, and rebuilt on the same
plan. Lisiansky, Lutke, and Whymper have given pictures and descrip-
tions of these three citadels protected by stockades, bastions, and bat-
tery of forty pieces, and with Sir (Jeorgc Simpson have described its
social life, it is a massive structure, measuring 8() x 51 ft., built of cedar
logs, joined with copper l)olts and riveted to the rock. It is three stories
in height, with a glass cupola, which was formerly the light-house of the
harbour, the lamp standing 110 ft. above the sea. It was richly fur-
nished and decorated when transferred to theU. S. military commandant
in 1807, but after the departure of the troops was looted of every be-
longing, wantonly strijjped, and defaced. No rei)airs were made until
1893.

Baranof's daughtei-, Mnie. Yanovski, was the first hostess on the
At'lvw/- (1805- 21), but the Baroness Wrangcll (1831- aO) was first to
leave any social fame. Mme. Kupreanoff (18o()-'4<>) crossed Siberia on
horseback to acc()m|)any her husl)an(l to this distant post. Mme. Etho-
lin (184H-'4r)), a native of Ilelsingfors in Finland, was the Lady Boun-
tiful of blessed memory who did most for the colony. Sheestal)lished a
school for Creole girls, dowered them, and gave them wedding feasts in
this home. Sir (icorge Simpstm has described her refined liospitality,
the bamjucts of 3(> and 50 guests, the costly plate, and appointments.
Mme. Furuhelm (1859-'64), a Petersburg beauty, was long .emembered
for her accomplishments and kindness. The first Princess Maksoutoff
(18G4), an Englishwoman, died soon after her arrival, and was buried
in the Lutheran cemetery on the knoll in line half-way between the two
block-houses. The second Princess Maksoutoff was young and beauti-
ful, with great tact and chariu, and made life e"> the Kikoor one round
of gaiety until the day when with streaming eyes she watched the Rus-
sian fiag ilung down and the United States colours run up on the citadel's
flag-staff. Itwfs the residence of the successive military commandants
from 18t't7 to 1872, and Lady Franklin and Mr. Seward were entertained
there.

Two young officers of the U. S. S. Adunis and the purser of the
Idaho manufactured a ghost stoiy to meet the demands of the first
pleasure travelleis in 1883, who insisted that the deserted and half-
wrecked castle must be hauntinl. A Lucia di Lannnermoor, condenmed
to marry against her will, killed herself, or was killed by a returned
lovei', in the drawing-room, the long apartment on the second floor,
north side, adjoining the ball-room, where she walks at midnight.

General Davis cleared away the old ship-yard, and tilled in and made

SITKA AM) VICINITY.

117

ide

the present panulo-protmd. The oflicors' quarters that fronted on two
sides were nearly all burned Ity the natives between 1H7*J and 1H77, the
one nearest the sea-wall and native villH;.'e being used as residenee by
the territ<»rial governors. The heavy stockade around the settlement
was torn down pieeenieal after the troops left. The Sitka Historical
Society was organized in time to preserve the two block-houses.

The large l(»g building next the Custom-IIouse, occupied by the Sitka
Trading Company, was the old fur warehouse, and often held pelts to
the value of $1,U»)(>,(KM> in Russian days.

Ru»t8itiii Orthodox Church of St. Michael.

Baranof built a small chapel in IS hi, but when I van Veniaminoff
was made bishop of the independent diocese of Russian America he
built this cathedral, occupying a (puulrangle midway in the main street.
It was dedicated in 1844. Venianunoff, then Metropolitan of Moscow,
sent rich vestments, plate, pictures, and altar furnishing to the church,
which was also inider the special protection of the imperial family, who
filled it with gifts. The chime of six bells in the cupola was sent
from Moscow.

The interior is richly decoiated, and is open to visitors on steamer
days for a small admission fee, whieh goes to the poor fund of the
parish. There are no seats, the congregation standing or kiu'cling, and
a male choir chanting throughout all services. The interior is finished
in white and gold, and the imier sanctuary, where no women may enter,
is separated from tlie body of the church l)y elaborate bronze doors.
The picture of the Ascension over these doors was formerly in the
chancel of the Lutheran church. Massive candlesticks stand at either
side (»f the doors, atui the screen holds fidl-length pictures of St. Michael
and St. Nicholas in armour and rol)es of beaten silver, with jewelled
halos and helmets. The chapel and the altar in the riglit transept are
dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The chapel of St. Maiy on the left
is used for winter services, and the altar picture of the Siddonna and
Child, their sweet Byzantine faces shadowed with heavy silver draper-
ies, is much admired.

The church treasury contains many rich vestments, jewelled crowns,
crosses, caskets, and relifiuaries ; a tine baptisnuvl bowl, iiiuminated
breviaries and missals with jew .'lied and enamelled covers. The bish-
op's mitred cap and the crowns used in the wedding ceremony are very
ornate. The bishop's see was transferred to San Francisco in IHUH,
and the great diamond cross, and a Bible whose silver covers weighecl
twenty-seven pounds, were taken there, together with the richest vest-
ments. In the following year discharged U. S. soldiers robbed the
church of the Czar's jewelled Bible and many valuable pieces of plate,
a few of which were recovered in a nuitilated condition.

The Czar of Russia, as temporal head of the (Jreek Orthodox
Church, maintains the 17 churches and 92 chapels in Alaska, and the

ill:
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118

SITKA AM) VICINITY.

cliniM'ls ill Cliinifro and Sun Fnincisfo, at an i'xp«'n«o of .'*H(>,(HiO a year.
lit' tninsfcned the hisliop's see Irom Sitka to San Francisco, and then
to I'nalaska, and l)a('k to Sitka, partially lestorinj; at last some of itrt
f^lory to this ("^atliedial of St. Mielniel. The hishop resides in the lon^,
^reen-roofed d\vellin<; on the (Jovernor's Walk, and there is a tiny
Chapel of the Annuneiation off \m drawing-room whose altar shines
with many fine silver ieons.

The Chapel of the Kesurieetioii, huilt into the stoekade near the
present Marine IJarracks, was used for the native eommimicants until
the transfer. It was onee seized and used as a fortress during an u|)-
rising of the natives. It fell to ruin and was destioyed some years ago,
and all eommunieaiits now w(»rship together at St. .Miehacrs.

The Lutheran ehurch, liuilt hy (Jovernor Fitholin in l^'4o for the
Swedes and Finns eni|)loyed in the foundries and shi|i-yar(ls, was the gar-
rison ehureh after tiie transfer, later was al)andoned, and finally torn
down. Prince Maksoutoff sent all the ])late and furniture hack to the
mother church in Finland in 18(>7. Lieutenant (iilmaii rescued and re-
paired the wrecked organ, that afterward touiid a place in the museum.

The ponderous log building on the S, side of the church, occupied as
a general trading-store, was formeily the head ofHce and counting-
house of the liussian-American Fur Company. The deacon's house and
other dwellings, which are church property, face on the N. side. The
Officers' Cluh-JI<>K,se at the corner of the (piadrangle was a richly ap-
pointed building in Russian days. It was the club-house of the U. S.
military otlicers, but only a tenement-house since the garrison left. A
small spruce-tree growing from the crevice of a boulder, beside the
cngine-hou.se facing the club-house, is one of the regular sights of the
town.

The eminence X. of the church, formerly the tea-i/ardcns and race-
track of the Russians, is reserved as site for a (Tovernoi's mansion. A
path continues to the h'n.sslan ('ciitcteri/ overlooking Swan Lake, which
at one time furnished ice for a large ice-house whose stone foundations
remain on the point of land S. of the church. A railway connected the
lake with the ice-house, and shipments were matle to San Francisco.
The winters ])roving too mild, and the ice too thin aiul porous, operations
were T'onducted at (Jloubokoe Lake, or the Redoubt, then transferred to
Kodiak, and finally suspended upon the perfecting of ice-machines.

Foundries once occupied the land between the church and the saw-
mill. Ploughs and farm implements were exported to Pacific colonies,
and the bells of nearly all the mission churches in California were cast
here. These works and the ship-yards, being the only ones of their
kind on the Pacific shores until after the gold discoveries in California,
made Sitka the reiulezvous of all ships and fleets.

The '■'■ Blar)iei/Sto7ie" a scjuare block on the beach opposite the
Mission, is believed to dower the one kissing it with a magic tongue.

i !

the

rue.

! I

HITKA AM) VUUNITY.

119

Bnranof is said to have spent many fine afternoons sitting on it. There
is a Russian inscription on tlic face, a id cacli V. S. tnan-of-war or rev-
einie euttor used to cut its name on it as itnperislialde record of entry.

The Sltk'u Mission and Imhistrinl Sc/mol was establisliod hy the
Presbyterian Hoard in 1K7H. In IKHl the Indian appropriation l)ill
provided " $ir),<)UU for the support and e<lucation of Indian cliihiren of
l)otlj sexes at industrial schools in Alaska." An allowance of ijiTiO per
capita was made for each pupil enrolled. In 1H8M this educational
fund was transferred to the lioard of Kducation, and the Indian Hureau
ceased to have any connection with the natives of Alaska. There were
l»i4 ptipils in 1K<.H)-'".»1, and the }z;roup of buildings include dormitories,
school- rooms, work-rooms, a hospital, church, nniseum, cooper, car-
penter, blacksmith, and shoemakers' shops. The laundry and industrial
school l)uildin}; were the j^ift of Mr. and Mrs, Elliot F. Shepard, of New
York. There is a model settlement of school graduates la-yond the
Mission. E.\ereises are held in the school-rooms on steamer days. The
Mission baud plays there, and usually as a farewell at the wharf.

Chief Michael's village, destroyed by Lisiansky in 18U4, occupied
tl I'oint Ko/oshcnskoi/ at the mouth of Indian River. Afterward
the Swedes and Finns in the Russian Comi)any's employ built their
group of cottages, and traces of the ruins nuiy be found in the j)ark-
like reach.

The Indian River Park.

Kaloschinskdid IMscha, or Indian River, has been admired by
every visitor of the century. It rises in the valley that opens behind
the town, and is fed by the snow-l)anks of Vcrstovoi and the 7'hn'e
Brothers, or Valleii Mountains. In Sir (Jeorge Simpson's time (1844) it
was so crowded with salmon that a canoe could not be forced through.
Malma trout are the best catch of summer weeks now, and salmon
swim occasionally. By Executive proclamation of June- 21, 18iM), a
strip of laud 500 ft. wide on the righ.t bank and 250 ft. wide on the
left bank of Indian River, between the falls and its mouth, were re-
served for a public park, and lo acres of land beyond the Mission grant
was reserved for a naval and military cemetery. It is a beautiful natu-
ral park, and contains much of interest to the tourist — thickets of
devil's club 20 ft. high, thickets of salmon-berry and thimbk'-berry
bushes, and a wealth of strange ferns and mosses. One path leads from
the Governor's Walk through the model village beyond the Mission to
the river's bank, and two other paths lead from the Governor's Walk

I,
f I-

120

SITKA AND VIOIMTY.

W\"'

Pi I

fi II

II' i

l'^

to the bridge sjiiiniiing the stream above its mouth. Maiiv side paths
diverge from the main putli along the left bank, which extends from
the falls to the beach. At the latter point are the graves of Lision-
sky's men who were kdled by and)uscaded Indians while ob'.uni'ig
water for the ship in 1804. The path continiie;i thence to Jamestown
Bay.

On the right bank near the ,.alls, the prostrate trunk of a cedar 10
ft. in dianieter, with a group of younr .ices growing on its mossy ter-
race, lies beside the path. The m tic seats, bridges, and the cleared
path are part of public improvements made by Lieutenant G ilman, U. S.
M. C, in 1884. Ilis rustic bridge at the falls was destroyed by wood-
cutters, who aPowed untrimmed tiees to floa.t u.)v»n and jam above it ;
and the lower bridge was destroyed by hood. The Davix Rot .' con-
nects the old brewery above the falls and the Governor's Walk, cross-
ing a high swamp covered with blueberry bushes and moroshkies
(Bnbns chcemaiwus), a small ground ))erry. The Cemetery Road joins
it near the beach.

The I'iidiaii Village.

The native village fronting on the harbour N. of the wharf has been
transformed since 1880, and does not contain one of the original lodges
or great communal dwellings of old. C'aptaiu Glass had the village
cleaned in 1881, and the houses numbered, for record and sanitary
inspection. An "inbition to display the highest aiimber has caused
each one to raise the figures on his doorway since such discipline was
relaxed. The silversmiths and basket-weavers often have choice pieces
of their work in reserve, and the tourist readily pays a higher price for
the privilege of purcLasing on the premises. Mrs. Tow, who is not a
princess, but of commonest Yakutat stock and of an inferior tottm, is
possessed of grc it wealth in silver dollars, and is one of the shrewdest
and largest trades in the Territory, owning schooners and branoh stores.
Extv'^nsive advertising has made her famous and raised the prices of her
goods, but few of the romantic histories current have any foundation
in truth.

A troil leads up the beach to the sawmill, and another across to
Swan Lake. Gavan, or Harbour Hill, N. of the village, is 2,200 ft. in
height.

TliE SITKANS ^ND THEIR RECORDS.

General Halleok's census of 1369 estimated the Sitkans at 1,200.
Captain Glass's winter census of 1881 found 84<.>. The official census

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SITKA AND VICINITY.

121

of 1890 recorded 814 villajjers in July, Imt ro>i(lonts siiy that there are
always more than 1,000 livinj; in the ranch in winter.

Thr Sitkans are of mixed and eonimon stock, descended from o»it-
easts, reneji^ades, malcontents, and wanderers of many tiiltes. The
original word " Sheetka " — sh ovshu, a mountain, and fiikirini, a villajic —
is freely translated as " the i)eoi)le living' at tlic base of the mountain "
( Versiovoi), and the tiue SJu'ctko was th«' t'oi titled villap' of soo people
destroyed i)y Baranof and Lisiansky at the I'oint. AH otlier Tlin^its
looke(l down upon them at that time, and a Hoonah or Kootznalioo
child was most insulted when called "as ^-reat a Idockhcad a-; a Sitkan."
An old Kootznalioo told Lisiansky that lonu, l<»nf; a<i:o, in a !>ay (K:it-
liansky) near Old Sitka, two oiphan hrothcis (d' unknown origin lived
alone in a world of i)lenty until Chat, the younj^er, ate a sea vefrctal)Ie
like the prickly cucumber. The elder knew it was the one forhiddi'ii
fruit ; the abundance ceased, and the two nearly starved. Tlie bay
was common Inmting-groimd to all tribes, and some visiting Stikines,
pitying them, left them Stikine wives of th(> Crow clan to teach them
liow to live in the changed world. All Sitkans of the Kaksatti, or
Crow totem, are descended from this pair. The Kaksattis and the
Kokwantons, or Wolf clan, alxnit evenly diviile the tribe now, the latter
a band of mixed Auk and Chilkat stock, who came over from the
Kootznahoo country in IJardiiofs time.

Until IH'21 the Indians were not allowed to settle on the fort shore,
and they kept to the harbour islands. Lutke (IS'J?) first described the
present ranch, the vast lodges with the totem's elligy I)efore the door,
and the feasts and dances tliat went on at these signs of the Crow, the
Wolf, and the Bear. Although the fort was strongly defended, ;{,t>00
warriors once appeared, demanded blankets, and began a dance
that frightened the Kussians into compliance. In 18;jt) an epidemic
of small-pox began, lasted for four yeais, and reduced all the tribes
to one half their number. Long l)efore the Russians came the great
Crow had sent the same fatal disease as punishment for the continual
wars among the Tlingits ; but the medicine-men asciilied this epidemic
to the white priests and doctors, and, like the Salish, viewed baptism
and vaccination as rites of evil effect. In lh.")5 the Sitkans attacked
the fort, but were quickly subdued.

They were displeased at the change of flags, puzzled by the lax rule
of the new owner, and Katlean told Ceneral Davis to put his soldiers
in canoes if he expected to control the Tlingits. When the troops left
they enjoyed a season of lawlessness, but were (juickly brought around
by the man-of-war government. Schools and prosperous trade have
transformed them, and they are but frontier li-heiinen, loggers, or
boatmen, differing (mly in complexion and occasional speech from the
average white backwoodsman. Their canoes are the only i)ietures(|ue
thing left them, and the winter dances are fast taking on tiie iiiiture of
historical plays, representations of ancient times and customs. The
berry feast in midsunnner is often celebrated with sjurit, and a water
procession of decorated canoes carries the whole tribe off on a picnic to
gather salmon-berries on favoured shores.
9

122

SITKA AND VICINITY.

Lisiansky made a vocabulary «>f the Sitkan dialect, and Dixon re-
corded several of their songs. Baron Wrangell wrote much of them, and
Veniaminoff compiled a valuable ethnological work. He recorded their
legends and folk-lore, and described their customs in detail. Since the
transfer the only ethnological work has been that of Lieutenant George
T. Emmons, U. S, N., whose collections in the Museum of Natural His-
tory, Central Park, New York, and for the Alaskan section in the Co-
lumbian Exposition at Chicago in ISOa, embody all of Tlingit art, and
his note-books contain all of Tlingit record and lore resulting f lom nine
years' systematic study.

The Ascent of Verstovoi.

The ascent of Verstovoi is the most profitable day's excursion around
Sitka. The first shoulder, the Mountain of the CVoss (2,597 ft.), com-
mands as fine an outlook as the very tip of the Arrow-Head peak, and
may be reached by either of two trails, in two and a half or three hours
from the wharf. No climber should attempt it alone or unarmed, as the
way puzzles woodsmen, and bears ii"o numerous in the salmon season.

The old Russian 7 mil starts from the ford of Indian River at the
end of the wood-road leading past the cemetery. It was cleared in the
last decade of Russian rule, when an energetic Alpine Club member
scaled and planted crosses on all the heights around the bay. During
this official's stay there was an epidemic of mountain-climbing, and the
Russian women took part in the many picnics and dances on the
heights. The trail is now overgrown and blocked in many places, and
is longer than Koster^s Trail from Jamestown Bay.

The climber may be rowed to the water-trough in Jamestown Bay,
where Koster^s Trail begins, or follow the path leading from the Lisi-
ansky graves on Inc^ian River through to the bay. At low tide short
cuts may be taken across the thick, slimy beds of sea-weed covering the
rocky beaches. The same Executive i)roclamation that reserved the
banks of Indian River, reserved a tract of land 250 ft. wic'e on either
side of the little stream feeding the U. S. S. Jamcstoum'' s water-trough.
The trail is about two and a half miles to the Cross, a steep and steady
ascent, first following the stream to the logger's cabin. The dense
underbrush ceases at about the level of 800 ft., and beyond every-
thing is covered with moss. At the timber-line are beds of yellovv vio-
lets and acres of heathery bryauthus and cassiopea, daisies, buttercups,
anemones, and cyclamen. The view of the Baranof mountains. Silver
Bay, the ocean, sound, and Mt. Edgecumbe, with Siika at one's feet,
well repay the climber who reaches the tall wooden Cross.

y««<»iWrk»i'*iiiKw!f^/'.-:a 8 ttoa.^

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f|: ■

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in* " ■■

^ ns

SITKA AND VICINITY.

1L>3

Veniovoi, named l)ct'aut<t' the fsiiminit was thouplit to be one vei>t
distant from the Castle, has also been known as PoputT Mountain, the
Pouee, the Arrow Head, and Anchor Peak — the latter because a snowy-
anchor is seen from the N. outlined near the summit. The Verstovoi
peak cannot be reached from the Janiest(twn side. The climber must
circle around the snow-fields on the valley side to reach the small plat-
lorm 8,2 U) ft. above the bay. A record was left by the W. U. T. sin--
veyors who reached the top and took observations in ISC),'), and the
Jamcslown^s oflicers erected a flaj^-staff, which each climl)in<i party re-
plants. The peak is said to have been split by an eartli(|uake in the
last century, exposing the smooth, triangular mass shajxMl like an arrow-
liead. By climbing the slipi)ery grass and bryanthus beds on the Cross
side to the hanging hendock grove, one may see the great tent roof of
Mt, Crillon and the triple peak of Mt. Fairweather lying a hundred
miles due N.

Excursions in the Bay and Vicinity of Sitka.

No other settlement in Alaska offers so much in its immediate
neighbourhood as Sitka. The ascent of Verstovoi is the only land
excursion possible from the town. All other trips involve cruises in
canoe or in sail-boat, unless a launch is brought from Juneau or Killis-
noo. Shuniakoff, Clements, Frobese, and other local guides will under-
take all arrangements for sportsmen, naturalists, or pure pleasure-seek-
ers. The usual rates are ,$2 a day for a canoe, and an additional per
diem for each oarsman. Sail-boats with covered cabins cost $5 to ,$10
a day. The regular day's wages for camp hands and others is $2. The
guides expect more.

The Harbour Islands. — It is possible to make a canoe or fish-
ing trip among the harbour islands during the steamer's regular wait.

Jnponski, opposite the Indian village, is the largest of the 130 Har-
bour Islands. It measures a mile in length and is a half mile in
width. Its name, " Japan," was given because of the residence there of
the crew of a Japanese junk wrecked at this point in 1805. It was the
site of a large native village in Haranof's time. In istO Captain Etholin
built a magnetic and meteorological observatory, and records were kept
until the day of transfer. General Davis reserved all the harbour isl-
ands for military use, ai.d Japonski was garrison, stock-yard, and naval
coal station in turn. Michael Travers, " Duke of Japcmski," lived
there and cultivated vegetable gardens and hay-fields, until the recla-
mation of the land for Government use in 18i»0 drove him insane, and a
special agent was sent from Washington, D. C., to convey him to St.
Elizabeth's Asylum near that city, the only refuge of the kind available
to Alaskan patients. The coal-sheds and powder-magazine are the
only buildings besides Travers's cabin. Etholin's observatory was
burned by the Indians when the troops left.

i^l

3t
If

<'ft{>C

ygaiticed Miles

mtical Mile 8
lO

124

HITKA AND VICINITY.

Harbour hbind lies S. of .laponHki, and contains several Indian
rarhes often mirttiikon for whainanw' jjravoH, and Aleutsi-I iHJaiid beyond
is the site of tnick-^anienH of a retired marine. The sliip channel lies
between Alcutski and Kutkan islands, the latter the home of a chief
converted and baptized by Veniaminoff, and who related to the latter
much of the legend and folk-lore he recorded.

Makhnati (Iliipged) hland is the landmark for ships from the
ocean. It was chosen for a light-house site in 18<)7, and Captain Beards-
lee's wooden beacon on the seaward bluff is often taken for a shaman's
grave. Signal hltnul was the place for bonfires to light and lead ships
in Russian days. The firing of a gun caused the l)eacon on the citadel
roof U) Hash out, and men were in waitir'^ to light the signal-fires that
marked the course into the harbour. Departing ships were blessed by
the Russian bishop in full canonicals, and deck, mainmast, Hag, and
crew were sprinkled with the jewelled holy-water brush. All small
boats rowed three times round, singing a farewell, and nine cheers sped
the ship as the sails filled.

Sea bass may be caught at each flood tide off the "^' shore of Ja-
ponski, and on the S. shore between it and the bold blum of Charcoal
Island. Cod, flounders, and sea trout reward the angler, and any na-
tive boatman knows the best fishing-banks and troUing-grounds and
the times and places for salmon " runs." Between Jupomki and iSascdni
Island, next beyond, W. of it, is a sea garden worth floating over to
admire. The growths of sea-weed and submarine plants are of tropical
luxuriance. Fronds as large as a banana or lysichton leaf crowd stems
80 ft. long; kelp lines 100 and 200 ft. long are coiled on the surface,
and their " orange heads " float in groups. Coral and sponges are found
in the bay, the teredo is as destructive as in the tropics, and strange
drift is left by the ocean currents. Sasedni, W. of Japonski, is the most
beautiful of the islands — the " black beach " on the S. W. shore com-
manding the finest view of Mt. Edgecumbe. Beds of large blue-bells and
thickets of salmon-berries are found on all the islands, and they are
nesting-places of the olive-backed thrushes, whose song is a repeated
" Te JDeum ! Te Deum ! Te Deum ! " in ascending notes of entrancing
sweetness. Crows, the red- footed " oyster-catchers," sidle over all
Alaska beaches in search of clams, but find abalones on these islet
shores, pry them off and carry them to the tree-tops to devour. These
scavengers are guardian spirits and the great Crow is tutelary genius
of the region. Deceased shamans and illustrious ones of the Crow
clan are supposed to assume this form, and this reincarnation saves
them from native shot or snare.

The Ascent of Mt. Edgecumbe.

The climbing of this extinct volcano on Kruzoff Island involves an
indefinite time, as one reaches its base by launch or sail-boat after
crossing waters open to the heaviest swells when southeast winds blow.
Fogs are frequent, and the waters are full of sunken rocks, Landing

«■•'?

i I

HITKA AND VICINITY.

125

on the Sitka side, there is a hard tramp for 6 or 7 iniloH thmugh a
swampy forest to the actual slope. la favourable weather a better
landing may be made in a cove on the ocean side, whence it is only 2
or 3 miles to sloping ground. Once out on the open lava and Hcorioo it
is but an easy walk up an incline, and the crater is entered by a gap in
the southeast rim. The snow leaves the slopes and crater entirely in
midsummer. Steam rises from many sulphur-cnisted vent-holes, and
beautiful specimens of sulphur, lava, and volcanic glass are obtained.
Several women have made the ascent in recent years.

After Tschirikow charted this mountain of St. La/aria it was next
seen by Maurelle, the pilot of Heceta and Bodega y Quadra's expedition
sent out by the Spanish Viceroy Bucarelly. He entered " the great
bay among mountains" St. Jacinth's day, August 16, 1776, named the
peak San Jacinto and the bay Guadalupe. La P6rouse next saw
this peak of St. Hyacinth, and then Cook, May 2, 177H, named it Mt.
Edgecumbe, and the bay the Bay of Terrors. Dixon called the bay
Norfolk Sound, and Marchand (1791) took his predecessors to task for
this renaming. "Que gagneroit la Geographic k ce changeiiient de
nom ? qu' y gagneroit Vimmortel Cook " f he exclaimed, when the natives
made him understand that the bay was Tchin-Kitune (a UHcful arm).
He did not record the native name — Tlugh, or sleeping mountain.

Two Kadiak hunters climbed the mountain in 1804 and reported
the crater tilled with water. Lisiansky and Lieutenant Powii Ishin as-
cended in " f^05, and found " a basin 2 miles in circumference and 40
fathoms lioep tilled with snow," July 23d, Lisiansky estimated the
height at 8,000 ft., with forest reaching to within a mile and a half of
the top. Lutke was told (1827) that the mountain was in eruption in
1796 and 1804. In 1867 Professor Davidson estimated its height at
2,866 ft. In 1886 Professor William Libby, Jr., of Princeton College,
climbed to the crater's rim and gave its height as 3,782 ft. The whole
mountain, according to Prof. Libbey, is only a parasitic cone on a
greater volcanic mass of which the CameVs Back, N. of E<lfj;ecumbe, was
the chief vent-hole. The oval crater in the Camel's Back 6 miles long
and 3 miles wide, a basin 1,500 ft. deep, with an internal slope of about
60°. The level floor is covered with forests and open parks, with sev-
eral lakes. The Camel's Back rose from the sea cycles ago, and built
around it the terraced platforms constituting Kruzoff Island. Edge-
cumbe was formed on its inert slopes only a few score centuries ago.

Sportsmen find many attractions within the 18-mile limits of the
Kruzoff shores. There are bear and deer. There is a lake on the
Sitka side where rainbow trout may be caught. There are many clam
beaches, and a bay where Captain Beardslee found as many soft-shell
crabs as in those exceptional seasons when Massett Inlet and Prince of
Wales bays have been edged with broad windrows of cast-off shells.

nan

IPPP

120

rilTKA AND VICINirV.

■J

I ;

tsm «■

Silver flay aird tin; Hitka mining DJiNtrict*

Ki3vf;r Bay, or Serrcbrmnikof liootka^ an riiirned for a Siberian ex-
plorer killed at ("opjx'i Itiver, in Uie Kn lcdli\, nr '"Viki'. l»elonj^ing to
lilack fisli/iieri " of ilic natives. It opens a^, tlie Koutli point of JumeH-
town liay, 2J niileH Iw^low Sitka, and (jxtends for miles with a width
of less than iialf a mile between mountainy lirin'^ proeipitou.-ly 2,rMK)
ft. and tnorc. Lakcrf on the Kouth foot of Ver.stovoi feed Saw-miU Creek.
"i'he remains of the Itussian crib dam urd flume are on the bank a
((iiaitc r of a mile fiom tln> mouth. The mill w:is burned by the In-
dians aft<*r the dei»!"'»nr(; of the troops. Malma or l)olly Vardeii trout
are to (kj caught Im-Iow the dam, and in the farther waters the rarer
beauties with the raitd)ow s[)eekles abide.

Round Afonnioin, at the tuin of the fiord, i?' a symmetrical green
landmark, with a ''»fty cave on its east side int(» which a tianoe may be
rowed at high tide. /i'V/A/m////'.s- /jfindSfulf, on the opposite mountain
Willi, maiks where a Ri'.s.-iiin iiuntcr in chasing a deer enctjuntered a
hour just as the earth trembled and the crust (d' the mountaii* slipped
down into the water. The deer was caught by the branches of a tree
at the watei's edge, 'uid Kahimpy, while hanging on the next tree, saw
the bear drown, //'./r J{"i/, the first in<lentation on the east shore and
home <d' a fa»:iouH gii/.zly, holds a magidfl(;eiit landscape canon, three
nuissive peiks ranging in echelon on one side with ?. massive broad-
armed cross outiin(!d by tiie sm»w on /\njmlin<iia'» sununit — a symbol
seen from the farthest en 1 of Sitka Sound. A waggon-road leads up
the canon to a grou{> of mL :.^.

At th'j extreme end of the bay th"; Silver Creek- Fall slioots down
;U>0 ft. in 'org rapids, the last I'Mip of GO ft, bringing it to tide-waters.
From the wlr.irf ( f the Stewart mine a road leads to the mill and tun-
nels of a valual)le gioup of mines. There is fine fishing in Hnbvjii
Cretk, and trails lead to several minefl, those of the Great Kastern
Group lying oti the divide between Silver Hay and (Jloubokoe Lake i»t
an elevation of 5,500 ft.

The Gold MhuH. — The FItissian Fur Company's officers never wanted
to discover and made but half-hearted search for precious mineraLs,
their chart(!r providing th.it .jiy lands containing minerals should be-
long to the crown. Mining has b'ecii most disastrous to fur-trading
interests, and opposed by such everywhere, liaranof is sai<l to have
knouted a promyshlcjnik who brought a piece of gold (piartz from
Silver Buy, and d(sc(»uraged prospecting for all time. Prof, iilake
reported to Mr. Seward, in 18<>7, that there was little promise of
precious mctaltf " in the hard conglotnerate or gr-t passing into argil-

THE BAUANOK SMOKE HOtlTIf OF HlTKA.

127

lite" 'n thfi iiDiiiediato nci^lihoiirliood of Sitkii. In 187 1 Edward
Doyle found float j^old In the Silver liny HlioreM, uncovered a (juartz
Htrinf^er on Round Mountain, and another on Indian Kiver. The Haley
and RodgerH lode, on Sainion ('hm-U, was the firtst worked hy f^arriHon
ofRe<'rH. The St(!wart Mill, on the neifi;hhouring claim, waw built in
1HT7, and the IJald Mountain elai/uH were worked for a few yearH.
Th(! Juneau discoveries drew ininers away, and the diHtrict was vir-
tually abandoned. (Jovcrnor Swineford's energy caused a revival of
minin({ interests in iHSr); other mills were built and work pushed, l)Ut
a second lull ensued when he left, anu rtr several seasons only pro-
specting and assessment work was done. Ditferences among stockhold-
ers and want of means have prevented any of the mines being thor-
oughly and hystematically worked for any time. The tons of high
grade ore takeri out, and the rich specimens obtained, prove the ex-
istence and (juality of the lodes, and the prosperity of the region is
but a matter of time.

The Baranof Shore south of Sitka.

The tourist can visit The licdoabt, or DrashnikofT settlement, in
the Toyon's, or Ozerski Jiai/, 12 miles S. of Sitka, and return in a day
by canoe ; or one may go through to th<! Hot Springs in one day's
canoe trip, stopping at the Ftedoubt on the way.

From Sitka the course leiids for H miles through a maze of wooded
islets to the mouth of the bay, that extends 4 miles as a narrow <".anon
or rock cutting to the natural dam holding the waters of the Cllou-
bokoe Lak", or the " Deep Sea." I)raHhnikofT Peak rises at *he end
of the bay perpendicularly from the water l,r»()() ft. The Russians
had a fortified settlement and jail here, and cured their winter sup-
plies of snlmon. There were 2 flour-mills, a saw-mill, tannery, church,
and residence buildings, within a sto(;ka(led {»"st, and substantia!
weirs in the rapids between the lake and l)ay. Lutke visited and
described the Redoubt in 1H27. and Sir (ieorge Simpson in 1844. The
buildings were burned by the natives after the troops left Sitka, and
the stockade <lestroyed. The pioneer Alaskan (;ann<'ry established at
old Sitka in 187S was moved to the Redoubt, but closed in 1890 and
for several sea.sons, and woik conducted at J{ed Day, 20 miles below,
where the catch of several salmon sticai: s could be centred.

(«loubokoc Lake, 8 miles long and less than three-quarters of a
mil« wide, has a depth of 50 fathoms, and is chiefly fed by a large
stream at the N. E. end. The stream may bo ascended 3 miles, and
trails lead from the banks tf» the mines on Raid Mouiitain and flown
the range, and over the divide :o Salmon Creek and Silver Bay. There

• ft 'IE

128

THE BAKANOF SHmRK SOUTH OF HI'^KA.

II ;

is a fin<i glo'ier on the mourifain at the E. **nd of the li»ii*» ami the
inoiintiiin vvallH Hhc prfcipilously on either side of th*' ftr>o(lftfJ lafion.
From the S. K. oiid of tli+' hike a portaj^e of a mile crofJH*- «» lov 'li.id<»
to Hot SpriiifTH, or Kltikarlicf iJay, Tht Redoubt is an adiMinral)!^
lK'iid<|uarterB fo<* sportsmen or Hnt^lers, and permission may be had to
use some of tl**^ abandoned eannery l)uilding8 for slielter.

The White Sulphur Hot Springs.

At the highest tide, a chain of intricate passes may be used by
canoes, and several miles saved in the voyage from the llcduubt to
Hot Springs Bay. It is worth several hours' deU> to thread tlx-se
labyiinths through the trees and ro<ks, and it furnislies the i'leal
water trip of the archipelago, bringing more of landscape beauty in
range than any other three hours of canoeing. The Hot Hprings cura-
tive qualities were long known to tlie natives, and the bay waa n^-utral
ground where all tribes met, but none built a permanent vitktf^.

Lisiuusky discovered or explored the bay in IHO!', and s[>ent a
week there. Lutkc mentions his visiting the one hous*' at the springs
in 1S27 and in ]s;57 Captain Ht-lcher 3poke of the saw-mills at
*'Le8 Sources, or warm springs, which serves as a sort of Harrow-
gate to the colony." Sir (Jeorge Simpson enjoyed his stay in the
comfortable (quarters at the hospital. In 185'J the natives attacked
the settlement, burned the l)uildings, and drove the invalids to the
woods. All of them reaclud Sitka, altho\igh compelled to cross the
mountains in the dead of wintei'. The new stockaded i)ost contained a
hospital, chapel, residences for two doctors, and a pharmacist, and
there was daily communication by steam-Iuunch with Sitka. There
were gardens and hay-fields on the great cleared hillside, and the sub-
terranean heat still forces a rich vegetation. The buildings were all
burned by the natives after the departure of the troops from Sitka.

By an oversight, the Hot Springs were omitted from the list of lands
reserved for Government use, and this tract was taken up by a Sitka
merchant, who has built a group of cottages and a rude bath-hou.se.
Ariangeinents for the use of these cottages may be made in Sitka,
where the keys are kept. A charge of 50 cents a night is made for
each person sleeping in the hay-filled bunks of the cottages, using the
cooking-stoves and fire-wood.

The White Sulphur Spring bubbles from a gem like pool and
crevices among the rocks, and has a temperature of 156"Fahr The
other spring has a temperature of 122 , and l>oth are impregnated
with sulphur, iron chlorine, and magnesia. They are sovereign for

»'TO WPJSTWAKD" FROM 8ITKA TO UNALA8KA. 129

ise.

lor
the

ted
f(.r

[

rheumatism and Hkin diseases, and are said to be the most valuable
springs medicinally of any N. of the IlarriHon Hot Springs on the
Fraser River.

The extensive meadows and gardens cleared by the Russians arc
relapsing to wildernesses again, and mos<|uitoc8 arc as many and venom-
ous as in Lisiansky's day There is a Tlingit legend that the mosquito
was originally a giant sjdder, but an evil Hjjirit threw him in the fire,
where he shrivelled to his present size and flew away, with a coal of
fire in his mouth, with which he retaliates upon mankind. Humming-
birds nest in the trees, and thrushes call from island to shore.

The mountains behind the bay are full of game, and the black-tailed
deer may be easily found, or lured l>y the low, wailing sound made by
blowing on a blade of grass held between the thumbs. Sportsmen
have had bear-hunting in the dense berry thickets, and there are sev-
eral trout streams near.

One of the finest views of Mt. Edgecumbe is from the Hot Springs
hillside, the hyacinthine peak seeming to float enchanted beyond the
long, island-dotted water foreground. The ball of the July sun drops
evenly within the crater's edges, with the most supcri) colour pano-
rama that northern skies and sea can summon, and not an hour of the
long-drawn summer sunsets should be missed l)y tho.se who visit the
steaming hillside by the ocean.

"To westward" &om Sitka to TJnalaska, along the

Continental Shore.

A Hteamoi' of the North Ameincaii Commercial Co. leaves Sitka foi-
fnahir^ka upon the arrival of alternate mail steamers from the Sound
during seven months in the year and on or about the llUh day of June,
July, and August, when possible. The P. C. S. S. Co. allow stop-over
privileges to those holding itri excursion tickets, and the opportunity is
given the tourist to see Mt. St. Klias, a dltferent scenic piJuornma, and
the strange life in the farthest and most out-of-the-way region of the
I'niU'd States. The steamer calls at Yakutat, Xuchck, Kadiak, Karluk,
Unga, and Sand Point, givin;; toinists opportunity to see everything
of interest on or near the route, within the 27 or JiO days scheduled for
the round trip of 2,500 miles from Sitka. The fare, $120 for the round
trip, includes meals and berths going and coming, board and lodging
at the N. A. C. Co. s house at Dutch Harbour, Unalaska, and the trip
to Bogoslov beyond Unalaska. The steamer is staunch and well offi-

130 "TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA TO UNALA8KA.

cered, and all the accommodations for the 22 cabin passengers are above
deck. In midsummer smooth passages may be expected. The Kadiak
and \^nalaska regions contain the oldest Russian settlements, but they
had iio regular communication with the rest of the world until the
establishment of this mail route in 1891. Up to that time even criminals
were sent to Sitka for trial by way of San Francisco. The tourist ser-
vice was inaugtirated in 18'.)3. Pa.s8age can be engaged only from the
N. A. C. Co.'s agent at Sitka.

.li

III

From Sitka to Yakntat.

The westward steamer't* course is directly out from the harbour to
the open ocean and around Mt Edgecumbe. Mt. ot. Elias has been
seen from Salisbury Sound, at the N. end of Kruzoff Island, and on any
clear day is visible 160 .niles at sea.

There are but two indentations in the plateau bordering the ocean
from Cross Sound to Yakutat Bay, and these, Lituya Bay and Dry Bay,
have no commercial importance.

The plateau supports four great peaks — Mt. La Perouse (11,800 ft.),
Mt. Crillon (15,900 ft.), Lituya Mt. (10,000 ft.), and Mt. Fairweather
(15,500 ft.). The Crillon and Ln Perouse Glacier join and front on the
ocean for 2 miles ju.st N. of Icy Cape.

Lituya Bay, 40 miles N. of Cape Spencer, cuts in 6 miles to
the base of Lituya Mt. in T-shape, and the cross-piece is 8 miles in
length.

It presents the greatest dangers to navigation. The tide enters in a
bore, and it can only be run at slack water La Perouse lost two boats'
crews in this bore in 1786, and erected a woodei- monument to their
memory on Cenotaph Island within the bay. Dr. Dall surveyed the l>ay
in 1874, described his entering with the tide as "sailing down-hill," and
epitomized its scenery as " a sort of Yosemite Valley, retaining its gla-
ciers, and with its floor submerged 600 or 800 ft." Lieutenant G. T.
Emmons explored it, and crossed overland to Dry Bay. He then learned
the native legend of "the two men(.<f Lituya," who, assuming the shape
of bears, sit at either side of Die entrance holding a sail-cloth just be-
neath the surface, and rudely tossing any incautious cauoeman who
paddles across it. Placer mining has been successfully conducted on
the shores of the bay since 1889.

Dry Bay is a shallow lagoon at the delta of the Alsekh River,
which rises near the Chilkat's source and flows in behind Mt, Fair-

to
in

"TO WESTWARD" FHOM SITKA TO UN ALASKA. 131

weather through the depres^io.i noted by Captain Cook. It was ex-
plored from Fource to mouth by the Frank Leslie Expedition of IS90,
along the old trail used by Klohkutz's Chilkats. This glacial river is
crowded with salmon in their season.

Yakutat Bay, 45 miles above Dry Bay, is only an indentation of
the coast curving inward some 20 miles, and the whole force of the
north Pacific sweeps into it, rendering landing difficult and dangerous
at all times. The bay always c mtains much floating ice from the gla-
ciers at its head, and a heavy surf beats on the St. Elias shore.

There is an Indian villa^^e, trading-store, and Moravian mission at
.^ort Mulgrave, opposite Khontaak Island, where Baranof established a
colony of Siberian convicts. Several ships were built there, but the
natives burned the fort and massacred the settlers. There was great
excitement in 1880 at the discovery of gold in the black-sand beaches,
and in 1888-'86-'88 there were considerable mining camps. By using
the same rotary hand amalgamators as on Californian gold beaches, as
much as $40 a day to the man was realized. The Yakutat chief ex-
acted licenses and royalty from the unprotected miners. A tidal wave
heaped the beach with windrows of ilog-fish, which, deciying in the hot
summer sun. soaked the sands with oil and the mercu y could not act.
Th miners moved to a new b^ach ; a tidal wave washed all the black sands
away, and ;he camp was abandoned. The sea has since been restoring
the black sands. A vein of good cod was found a mile and a half in-
land and 300 ft. above the bay, and, but for the difficulty of loading
ships in that bay, the coal problem woidd be solved for all the Sitkan
region. Yakutat village contains some original Tlingit lodges, and the
Yakutat wonicn are the finest basket-weavers on the coast.

In 1890 Captain C. L. Hooper, U. S. R. M., pushed into the head of
Malaspina's iJucuchantment Bay^ 60 miles beyond the point where the
Spanish explorer represented the water line as ending, and discovered
the Dalton and Hubbard tide water glaciers. In 18'J1 Prof. Ilussell ex-
plored the bay farther in a canoe, and fouiul it bending sharply south-
ward and extending for anotlier Oo miles to a level prairie country at
the foot of Mt. Fairweatlier. Prof, Russell charted the bay and named
Mts. Unana, Ruhamah, and Pinta.

ver,
"air-

132 "TO WESTWARD " FROM SITKA TO UNALASKA.

I ' .

Mt. St. Elias.

Since Bering sighted the Bolshoi Shopka ("great peak") on St.
Elias (lay, 1741, it has been the goal of many navigators and explorers,
and their records of its height, hititude, and longitude are :

Height and Position of Mt. St. Elias.

Date.

Authority.

Height.

atitiide.

Longitude.

1778

Cook*

12,672 ft.

lV,8.Vl ft,

i7,a")0 ft.

16,938 "
16,038 "
16,758 "

14.070 "
19,500±100 "

(estimated)
18,500 ft.

15,3.50 "

18,100±100 "
18,100±100 "

1786

La Pf'rouse

60°

1.5' 00"

140°

10' 00"

17H7

Portlock and Dixon *

Douglass *

1788

::::::::::

1701

Malaspina

60
GO

17 35
22 30

140
140

.52 17

1704

Vancouver

39 00

18:17

Belcher

1847

Russian Hydrographic
Chart, 1378

GO
GO
GO
GO

GO
60

21 00

22 30
21 30
17 30

21 00
20 45

141
140
140
140

141
141

00 00

1847

Tebenkof (Notes)

.54 00

1849

Tebeukof (Chart VII)

Bach. Can. Insein

.54 00
51 00

English Admiralty Chart
2172

00 00

1874

1877

U. S. Coast Survey

Prof. Chas. Taylor, Lieut.
C. E. S. Woodt

00 12

1886

Lieut. F. Schwatka, Prof,
William Libby, Jr., A.
W. Seton-Karr %

W. H. Topham, Edwin
Topham, William Wil-
liams, George Broke

Mark B. Kerr, topogra-
pher II

Prof. I. C. Russell (for
National Geographic So-
cietj')

1888

1800

1891

17 51

140

55 80

1892

Turner, McGrath (U. S.
Coast Survey)

. . ,

* No observations made.

X New York Time." Expedition. Reached Cliaix Hills. No observations made
II National Geograpiiic Society's Expedit
Russell.

+ Indians obliged them to turn back,
laix Hills. No observations mf
ion, conunanded l)y Prof. I. C.

It was reported as emitting smoke and vapour in 1889, and in 1847,
at the time of the great Sitka oarth(iuake, tiame and ashes came from
its summit.

The ascent of Mt, St. jjiias offers the longest snow-dirab in the
world outside of arctic or antarctic regions. The line of perpetual
snow is at 3,000 ft. Fuel and supplies must be carried from the start,
and weeks spent in tents on the ice.

The membeis of the Topham Expedition were all experienced Alpine
Club climbers, and were first to stand on Mt. St. Elias slopes. They

ide.
C.

art,

)inc
hey

SKETCH MAP

MT ST Elias Region

/itHitf' ofA'itt.Oetxf:foc.Ktf>«1itt(in oftVfO

•• '■ ' " •• tK//

\£^fTlf'</r</fif.i Kirumon ot'Cornficus i'7"l'> E

I '

! ,

I I

^ r

1 I

! I

: i

"TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA TO UNALASKA. 133

ascended from Icy Bay to the rim of the crater on the S. E. side, a
point ll,4<iO ft. by aneroid measurement. Mr. Williams, of New Lon-
don, the only American of the party, left a tin box containiiif? a United
States flag as a record at that point. The expedition of the National
(Jeographic Society of 1890, under Prof. I. C. Russell, crossed Yakutat
Bay and reached a height of 9,600 ft. on the E. face of the mountain
on the Newton Glacier, In 1891 Prof. Russell was sent again by the
same society. Six lives were lost in landing in the surf at Icy Bay, and
Prof. Russell reached the elevation of 14,500 ft. on the N. side of the
mountain, when driven back by storms and scarcity of provisions. He
explored the plateau of the Malanpina Glacier from Icy Bay to Disen-
chantment Bay on the return.

The observations of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Society party in
1892 were for the purpose of continuing Messrs. Turner and McGrath's
work on the international boundary line, and establishing the longitude
of Mt. St. Elias. It is now definitely accepted as within the United
States lines, and as a natural corner-stone or monument sufficiently
marking the line of the 141st meridian.

The full accounts of the later expeditions to Mt. St. Elias since 1867
will be found in the following publications :

Kaur, H. W. Seton. " Shores and Alps of Alaska." London :
Proceedings of Royal Geog, Soc, London. Vol. IX. 1887.

Kerr, Mark B. Scribner's Magazine, March, 1891.
• LiBBEY, Prof. William, Jr. Bulletin Am. Geog. Soc, New York,
1886.

Russell, Prof. Lsrael C. Century Magazine, April, 1891, and
June, 1892. Natl. Geog. Soc. Magazine, Washington, D. C, May 29,
1891. Am. Journal of Scierice, March, 1892. Thirteenth Annual Re-
port, Director of U. S. Geol. Survey, 1892.

ToPHAM, H. W. Alpine Journal, London, August, 1889.

Williams, William. Scribner's Magazine, April, 1889.

Wood, C. E. S. Century Magazine, July, 1882.

Continental Alaska.

While the steamer waits at Yakutat, there is in full view the mag-
nificent line of the St. Elias Alps towering in the sky above the low,
green forest lan'l. U]/on leaving, the ship skirts along the front of the
Malaspina Glaci'T. wl ich borders the ocean for more than 60 miles,
with the sea bre kin}, fully on its ice-cliffs in places. Mt, St. Elias,
Mt. Cook, and Mt. Vancouver are easily discinguished by their great
height. There is no break in the mainland mountain panorama from
Edgecumbe to Makushin, 1,250 miles, and in this respect the voyage
is unparallelled.

1^. '^ .>

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

2.5

|3.2

1118

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

1.25 1.4 III

1.6

^ 6"

►

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 872-4503

■<f>-

134 "TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA TO UN ALASKA.

The Copper River region was believed to be an El Dorado by the
RuBAians, but their effoi t» to explore it failed. Rufus Serrebrennikof
and his men were murdered before they had explored the river's mouth.

General Miles's first expedition under Lieutenant Abercrombie,
U. S. A., in 1884, failed to ascend the river and come out by the
Chilkat country. A second expedition, in 18H5, was led by Lieutenant
H. T. Allen, U. S. A., who ascended the Copper, crossed the divide to
the Tenarui, sailed down that stream to the Ynkim, and explored the
Koyukuk River before returning to San Francisco via St. Michaels.
His report (Forty-ninth Congress, second session, Senate Executive
Dociiment, No. 125) gives a detailed account of the trip; of the
magnificent Miles Glacier, which fronts in ice-cliffs for 6 miles on the
banks of Copper River ; of Wood^s Caiion, 40 yards wide, with perpen-
dicular walls ; and of the smoking cone of Mt. Wrangcl, which he re-
duced from fabled height to an actual 17,500 ft. No mc :ntains of
pure copper were found, nor anything to induce others to rim the risk of
starvation in the almost uninhabited country. In IHOl Lieutenant
bchwatka and Dr. Hayes came out to the sea by Copper River, after
their great circuit of the interior fiom Taku Inlet to the Yukon and
White rivers.

65'

I i

Prijce William's Sound and its Great Glaciers.

Nachek, or Port Etches, is at the entrance of Prince William's
Sound, as Captain Cook named the Chugach Gulf when he keeled and
mended his ships at Snug Corner Bay, 1778. Shelikoff came in 1783,
and Haranof built the ships that took his first expedition to Sitka.
The Russian trading-post was known as the Redoubt Constantine, and
the furs of the Copper River country are brought to Nuchek, where
there is a salmon-cannery and trading-post. In 18S>2 the Victoria
sealing fleet rendezvoused off Nuchek to meet their supply steamer
Coquitlam, revictual, and transfer their catch of Pacific sealskins be-
fore venturing into Bei-ing Sea. Captain C. L. Hooper, with the reve-
nue cutter Cortcin, surprised them in the act, and the Coguitlam, with
her valuable cargo, was seized and taken to Sitka for a violation of
U. S. revenue laws in transferring cargo without authority of the cus-
toms district.

The Chugack Alps surrounding Prince William s Sound hold
some of the grandest scenery of the Alaska coast, and the tide-water
glaciers in the recesses of the sound even surpass those of southeastern
Alaska. Vancouver desciibes the gloomily magnificent sound, and Mr.
Whidby felt the ground shake when 6 miles away from the falling ice.
Prof. Davidson had a glimpse of the ice falls in 1867, and Russian oifi-

55'

'■''

.■i

"TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA TO UNALASKA.

135

cers told liira of one glacier that showed a peculiar rose-red tint in u
certain light. Dr. Dall visited the sound in 1874, and declared the gla-
cial landscapes the finest of their kind. Mr. Seton Karr makes reference
to them in his "Shores and Alps of Alaska." The dangers of navigation
deter large vessels from attempting cruises in the unsurveyed waters,
and the floating ice menaces canoes, so tlntt the number, si/.e, movement,
and general features of these Chugach ice streams await exploration.

Cook's Inlet and the Kenai Peninsula.

Cook's Inlet extends inland 160 miles between the Alaska or
Chignik range and the mountainous Kenai Peninsula. Sheltered by the
great barrier on the west, its shores enjoy a different climate froro %nj
of the coast region south of it, and the warm, cloudless summers won
Cook's Inlet the name of the Summer-land from the Russians. The
best agricultural laud lies along the Konai shore of the Inlet, and the
Russian company estH))lished five colonies of their pensioners in this gar-
den spot, where they raised crops and cattle, and still continue to do so.

The Inlet is renowned for its scenery, which Captain Cook was first
to extol. He discovered the great estuary during his search for a pas-
sage to Hudson Hay, passing the south [Kjint of Kenai Peninsula on the
birthday of the Princess Eli/ubcth, May 21, \11H. The mainland point, 40
miles across from this Cape Elizabeth, was named for Dr. Douglass, Canon
of Windsor, Captain Cook took possession in the name of His Majesty,
and buried coins and records in a bottle at Possession Point at the head
of the Inlet, and Vancouver searched for these records in vain. Cook
did not nanr^ the place on his map, referring to it as the (Jreat River
in his text. Lord Sandwich wrote in " Cook's River " after the gi-eat
navigator's death. Cape Elizabeth is 550 miles from Sitka and 1,670
miles from San Francisco.

Coal-Fiehh. — Portlock mentioned the coal-veins in Graham or Eng-
lish Harbour, near Cape Elizabeth, in 17K7, and the Russians afterward
worked them on a considerable scale, and exported much of this lignite
to California previous to the discovery of the Vancouver coal. Tram-
ways, stone piers, and decaying buildings are memorials to the im-
mense sums sunk by the Russian company and some San Francisco
merchants who shared in tlie enterprise at Coal Harbour in Chugachik
or Kachemak Bay. Recently, interest in these coal-mines has been re-
vived, and also in the old works near Fort Kenai, where the equal of
Nanaimo coal was promised.

Fort Kenai, the old Redoubt St. Nicholas, was garrisoned by
U. S. troops for a few years after the transfer. There are two trading
stations and three canneries in the Inlet, and king salmon weighing 100
pounds are often caught. Gold was found in small quantities by a

136 '♦TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA T^ UNALA9KA.

i?:.

RuHHian enpncer in 1855, and prospectors are camped at many places
along shore every Huminer.

The Volcanoes. — Cook's Inlet is the finest Alaskan pleasure-
ground for scientists, sportsmen, anglers, artists, and yachtsmen, and
its climate enhances all attractions. A chain of active volcanoes ex-
tends along the W. shore. Iliamna, the great volcano of tho Inlet
(12,066 ft.), was named Miranda, the Admirable, by the Spanish navi-
gators. It is snow-clad, but steam and smoke issue from two craters
near the sumiuit, and when arrested for any time frequent earthquakes
are felt. Iliamna was ascended by a party sent from the Imperial Acad-
emy of Sciences at St. Petersburg in 1852, and Ity several parties of
U. S. officers while the garrison was maintained at Kort Kenai, 40 miles
distant across the Inlet. There was an eruption in 1854, and in 186t>
climbers found running lava near the lower crater, a vast oval bowl
full of sulphur crystals, and were driven from the upper crater by the
volumes of dense black smoke. Many hot springs occur on the slopes,
and the heat furnishes a luxuriant growth of trees in the valleys and
ravines. The natives have many superstitions concerning it.

Goryalya, or the Redoabt (11,270 ft.), stands N. of Iliamna,
and smokes and steams on a lesser scale. It was in eruption in 1 867,
and ashes fell to a depth of one inch and a half on Kadiak Island, 165
miles away.

Augustin, on an island near the mouth of the Inlet, is a sym-
metrical cone whose fires are extinct.

A trail leads from the native village in Kamishak Bay, S. of Ili-
amna, for 7 miles through a gap in the mountains to a chain of lakes
discharging at the end of 15 miles into Iliamna, the largest lake in
Alaska. Iliamna Lake, 90 miles long and from 30 to 40 miles
wide, is an inland reservoir or hatchery of king salmon, who use the
Kvichak River as their highway to Bering Sea. This chain of water-
courses and the short portage are used by hunters who come over from
Bristol Bay to the sea-otter rookeiies along the Cook Inlet and Sheli-
ko£F shores.

Either shore offers unlimited opportunities to sportsmen. The
only herds of wild reindeer remaining in Alaska are in the regions
along the Alaskan and Kenai ranges. The big brown bear of Cook's
Inlet has world-wide fame, and these monsters are the great prizes of
native hunters. Moose, caribou, mountain-goat, mountain-sheep, and
deer are found. There are many trout streams besides the salmon

"TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA TO UNALARKA. 137

rivers on the E. shore, and wild fowl haunt the marshes in that same
region.

The finest waterfalls in Alaska leap from the cliffs along the Inlet,
and the alternation of snow-peaks, volcanoes, forested slopes, and fer-
tile prairies continually charm the eye. There are glariern in the
mountains on either shore of the Inlet. Those facing tlie Kachemak
Bay coal-mines were explored and named by the Russian scientists in
1862, and their map showing the Orewingk^ the Wotsnefssenskiy the
Doroshin, and the Siid glaciers is included in the Gletscher-Karte,
of Berghaus's Physikal Atlas.

TIDES.

The Inlet is swept by tremendous tides, and there are strong tide
rips at the entrance and at the Fordmuh beyond Fort Kenai. In
Tumagain Arm, or Resurrection Bay, there is u tide fall of 20 and 27
ft., and the tide enters in a huge bore or wave. Expert canoemcn
take advantage of and ride the bore safely, and are swept rapidly on
their way by its aid.

The natives, the Chugachs, like the inhabitants of Prince William
Sound, are Indians of Athabascan stock. They are not a canoe peo-
ple, and differ as much from the Tlingits on one side as from the Es-
quimaux on the other.

Kadiak and the Great Salmon Canneries.

The dense forests of the Northwest Coast finally cease at the line

of the Eenai Peninsula, and there are but scattered groves on the

Kadiak Islands. Beyond that line the shores are covered with grasses,

shrubs, and thick mosses, that, freshened by perpetual fog and rain, are

80 brilliantly and intensely green as to dazzle the eye. The dug-OMt

canoe disappears at this forest edge, and boats of sea-lion or walrus

hide stretched over driftwood frames replace them. The bidarka, a

narrow shell pointed at either end, carries one or two men, who sit

each in a small hatch furnished with an apron that fastens around his

body, and these bladders ride the roughest seas safely. Women and

children are even packed beneath the oarsmen's feet for short voyages.

Lutke called these bidarkans the " Cossacks of the sea," and Billings

wrote, '* If perfect symmetry, smootluiess, and proportion constitute

beauty, they are beautiful beyond anything that lever beheld." They

hav also the oomiak, or large open walrus-hide boat, as a family and

trading.canoe, and these two craft, with slight modifications, are in use

from Kadiak around to the arctic coast.
10

138 "TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA TO UNALAKKA.

In 1850 tliree Russian sailors deserted from Kaditik and rcHched
Shoalwatcr Bay, Waxli., in bidarkan. In 1884 two Danes went from
Kadiak to San Francisco in a l^idarka 19 ft. long, making tlie 1,«UK)
miles to Victoria in 105 days' paddling, with frequent camps at night
along the coast. In 1892, a 12-ton schooner was blown off Karli'k in
a storm, and the one man navigated the 2,000 miles to San Francisco in
20 days, a feat which matches the bidarkans' record.

Lisiansky was told that the Kudiak Islands were once separated by
only the narrowest pass from the peninsula's shore. A huge Kenai
otter attempted to swim through and was caught fast. Its struggles
widened the Shelikoff Strait, and pushed Kadiak otit to its present pos-
session. By tradition, the original inhabitants were <lescended from a
dog. There is one legend of a man and a «log being set adrift on a
stone that finally turned to an island. Another tells that the daugh-
ter of a great chief living north of " the peninsula of Alaxa " was ban-
ished in wrath with her tlog husband and whelps. The dog tried to
swim back btit was urowne(l, and the pups fell upon their grandfather,
tore him to pieces, and ruled in his stead. Lisiansky found the Ka-
diakers in the lowest stages, sitting on the roofs of their sod huts or
on the beach, like herds of animals, gazing at the sea in stupid silence.
The want of oral intercourse proved their estate, but the courteous ex-
plorer said that " their i-implicity of character exceeds that of all other
people." He built ice hills for the ('hristmas of 1804, the Aleuts and
Kadiakers went crazy over toboganning, and the natives came from the
farthest points to watch.

Afognak, the northern island of the group, was declared a Fish
and Timber Culture Reserve, by Executive proclamation of December
24, 1892.

The steamer calls on both E. and W. trips at the headquarters of
the N. A. C. Co. for the Kadiak region on Wood Island near St. Paul.
The furs of Copper River and the Kenai region reach those warehouses.
There are large ice-houses on the island, whence cargoes were shipped
to San Francisco previous to the perfecting of the ice-machine. The
owners of the latter paid the Kadiak company a subsidy to withdraw
from competition, but ice was regularly stored year after year, and the
agent ruled patriarchally over u model village, virtually surrounded by
a park and game preserve.

St. Paul (population, 495), on the N. E. shore of Kadiak Island,
was the first headquarters of ShelikofTs and Baranof's fur-trade, and,
as their early capital and older home, was the boast of the Russians in
Sitka's better days. It is the headquarters of the A. C. Co. in this
region, and furs to the value of ^300,000 are shipped yearly. There
was a garrison of U. S. troops here for a few years after the transfer.

'•TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA TO UN ALASKA. 130

The Greatest Salmon Stream in the World.

Karluk is another important port of lull on hoth trips of tlio nmil
Htennicr. Two-thirds of the entire stilmon piuk of AluHkiiiu-e furnished
by the ten canneries on tl>e Kadiak Islands, which are ahiiost entirely
supplied from the Karluk River. This stream, on the \V. roust of
Kadiak, is 10 miles long, from loo to (>oo ft. wide, and less than «> ft.
deep. These figures give the dimensions of the solid mass of salmon
that used to ascend the Karluk to a mountain lake hcfure caniiers came
with traps and gill-nets in 1H84. The largest tannei y in the world is
at Karluk. There were 1,100 employes altogether at the Karluk ciin-
neries in 181»0, and over 200,0oo cases of 4H one-pound tins contuiiu'd
the 3,000,000 salmon packed. A single haul of the seine has heachcd
1 7,000 salmon, yet each ebb tide then left thousands of stranded fish to
die on the banks and bars. The canners enjoy their monopoly without
tax, Ucense, or any Government interference. The nearest civil official
is the U. S. Commissioner at I'nalaska, 7oo nules away, or the customs
deputy at Sand Point. Stores, employes, and pack are conveyed to and
from San Francisco in the canners' own vessels, and the hundreds of
Chinese, Greek, Italian, Portuguese, and Americans constitute the most
untrammelled communities anywhere under one flag from May to Sep-
tember of each year. There is much agricultural lan<l on these islands
and cattle graze the year round, the thermometer never recording zero,
and snow lying on the ground but for a short time.

The Shamagin Islands and the Cod Fisheries.

Bering landed on this group in 1741 to bury Shumagin, one of his
crew ; and Steller, the naturalist, who accompanied that expedition and
first classified the Pacific fishes, mentions the cod. Captain Cook and
other navigators referred to the cod ; and Senator Sumner laid great
stress on the value of these cod banks in his farewell speech, thercljy
causing several New England cod-fishing communities to protest against
the purchase of Alaska. Prof. Davidson reported the Shumagin cod
banks — since named the Davidson Banks — in 1807, and twenty years
later the Fish Commission steamer ^/6<///*o*» began its woik of sounding
and mapping the banks on either side of the Aleutian I.-lands. Over
10,000 square miles of cod banks were surveyed in three years. Popoff
Island, opposite Unga, is the headquarters of the cod-fishing Re it, and
there are large warehouses at Humboldt I/arb&tir and Piratv Cove for
salting and storing fish. The industry is conducted by San Francisco

140 "TO WESTWARD" FROM SITKA TO UNALA8KA.

fiHh-dcalerK, and the cod are taken there to be cured. The dry California
climate is Haid to be the reason for that process not ret^ulting as satis-
factorily as on the Atlantic coast. A colony of Gloucester fishermen
rounded the Horn after the troubles on the Great Banks in the Atlantic,
and many others have followed, but the immediate profits of sealing over-
shadow cod-tithing for the time being. The extinction of the fur seal
will give the cod-fisheries a greater following and importance; men
will depend upon more certain wages and employment, and cod will in-
crease in numbers, as each seal is said to consume in one summer cod
e<iualling in value the price of a raw sealskin. The pack of Shumagin
cod for 181«0 was valued at $^00,000, and for all the seasons from 186Y
to 1800 at a total of more than $3,000,000.

A coalmine on Unga Island furnishes fuel for local consumption
here and around Kadiak, and the Apollo Oold Mine, on the same
island, has been a paying concern from the start. The outer shores of
the Shiunagins are haunts of the sea-otter.

The Aliaska Peninsula.

From Cook's Inlet to the beginning of the Aleutian chain the E.
shore of the Aliaska Peninsula is a precipitous mountain range rising
abruptly from the sea. These dangerous shores are haunts of the sea-
otter, and in several places salmon streams connect with mountain lakes.
There are canneries and trading stations at Chignik Bay, Wrangell,
Portage, and Pavloff Bays. A railway 13 miles in length connects
Portage Bay with Ilcrcndccn Bay and the Bering Sea shore, and brings
coal from the mines owned by the Alaska Commercial Company to ship-
ping wharves. This is regarded as the most valuable coal deposit in
southern Alaska.

Belkofsky, at the foot of the volcano Mt. PavloflF, is the centre of
the sea-otter trade. The village of 185 people maintains a handsome
Greek church, and there is a Government school.

A century ago sea-otters were plentiful along all the Alaskan coasts,
but persistent hunting has nearly exterminated them, and they now
take refuge on the stormiest and most dangerous shores, and live in beds
of floating kelp. The hunters lie in hiding on the rocks for days in
order to creep upon or surround their game, or they may happen upon
an otter while it sleeps floatirg on the water. Only natives were allowed
to hunt otter, and firearms were thus prohibited on the otter-grounds
until 1878, when the Secretary of the Treasury allowed white men mar-
ried to native women to be considered natives in regard to the privileges
of hunting, which *' put otters at a discount and women at a premium."

THE ALEUTIAN ISI.ANDS.

141

Tlie native nponr and arrow are no lonpor used. Steamers and sohoon-
er8 carry contract hunters to the best otter-prounds, where they camp
until called for by those vessels. All the thle-water shores fi-oin
Prince William's Sound to the Aleutian Islands are otter-p'ounds, and
the peninsula const near Heikofsky, the outer Shumagins, and the
Sannakh Islands are the ri«'hest j^rounds. Otter-skins liave increased
enormously in value, and a single one of the.se purplish-brown pelts
sprinkled with delicate silver-tipped hairs is worth from $150 to $;i'K>.
It is the court fur of Russia and China, and at one time laws prevented
commoners from wearing it.

The Aleutian Islands.

The seventy islands of the Aleutian chain lie like natural stepping-
stones from the p<;!nt of the Aliaska Peniiisula for 1,(MM» miles toward
the Kamchatka shore, and Attou, the last in line, lies beyond the one
hundred and eightieth meri<lian and within the Kastern hemisphere.
They are of volcanic origin, and many craters still smoke along the
chain. Only one island, UtialaHht, contains a white settlement ; and
only one island, Amchitkn^ is seen from any establishetl route of com-
merce. The Canadian Pacific steamships often sight the low, green
shores or see the reflected glow of the volcano on Amchitka on their
course from Vancouver to Yokohama. They ui-e natural stations for
the proposed trans-Pacific cable route from Hritish Columbia to the
terminus of the Siberian Great Northern telegraph lines.

The islands are treeless, but covered with grass and mosses, and in
summer with a wealth of wild flowers. They are capable of cultivation,
and afford excellent pasturage. The temperature varies little from Sit-
ka's averages, and fog and rain are almost constant during the summer.
" The wolfs long howl " is not heard, but several islands are blue fox
ranches, and great care is taken to increase and improve the (piality of
pelts from such preserves. Over two hundred blue fox skins are
shipped from Attou each season. Cod banks border the islands, and
salmon and herring swarm, yet through iniprovideiice the natives of
some remote villages barely manage to exist through the winters.

The Aleuts numbered but ".><>() altogether in 1H1»0. They are now of
mixed Russian descent, but the original Aletits were a gentle, intelligent
people when impressed by the first fur-traders, and in their speech and
customs showed resemblance to the Ainos of northern Japan. Haranof
literally enslaved them, took 1,000 Alout hunters with their bidarkas
to Sitka in 1804, and often leased them under contract to British and
American traders for otter-hunting on the lower coast. Their damp,
half underground houses and the native qvass have been sufficient rea-
son for their rapid decline in numbers. Despite the introduction of
foreign liquors, only one murder was committed by Aleuts in fifty years.

■;

142

TIIK ALETTTIAN ISLANDS.

Tlipy nro (|uifk to improve odiioutional atlvnntn^o^, iind Aleut woiiten
of tin* hettei' cliisH possess many aceoiuplishinentM. The older women
weave exipiisitely fine baskets, rijrar-eases, etc., from the dried p-aHses
and filires, Imt tlie sup|)ly of this work diminishes eaeli year.

Utihniik Inland, the first «)f the Ah'Utians, contains two volcanoes,
Shishaldin {H,\n>'.i ft.), and PoifiomfKiiu, or Destruction (5,525 ft.).
Sliishahlin is the most symmetrical and perfect cone alon^ the whole
*' Pacific Uinp of Fire," 'ape'-inj.' evenly from sea-level to the sharpest
point, from which a sii.uke pennant always Hoats. The sea beats at its
ba.se, and the simwy cone retains its white coverinj? to within 2,0()(»
ft. of the surf the year round. It was in eruption in 1820, and in
1S27 openeil a new crater and rained ashes far and wide. The perpet-
ual mist and va]>our in the atmos|>liere defeat photographers* efTorUs to
secure sharp negatives from a moving ship.

Uiiimak 1\ikx atid Akntuii Puhh arc tiic usual ships' entrances to
Rering Sea. lU-tween the two lies the island Imlding the volcanic peak
of Akiitini, :{,«>KH ft. in height.

Uiialnska, the most impoitant island of the Aleutian chain, is
mountainous throughout, with the volcanic nta.ss of Maknshin, 5,9til
feet, at its northwest cud.

Dutch IlHrbour, on the north shore, frcmting Akiitan Pass, is the

headquarters of the North American Commercial Co., and tourists by

their mail steamer from Sitka wait here while the vessel refits for the

return cruise.

Captain Cook twice repaired his ships at this harbour in 1778, and
here met Ismyloff, commander of the Russian factory on the other side
of the island. He gave the great navigator nnich information as to
local names, which the latter received with caution. Here Cook wrote:
''They (the Aleuts) call it by the same name Mr. Staehlin gives to his
great island, that is Alonchko. Stachtan Nitada, as it is called on the
modern maps, is a name (juite unknown to the.«*e people, natives of the
islands, as well as Russians, but both of them know it by the name of
America." Then later Cook wrote; "I have already observed that the
American continent is here called by the Russians as well as by the
islanders Alnscftko, which mime, though it pi'operly belongs only to the
country adjoining Unimak, is useil by them when speaking of the
Aujciican continent in general, which they know perfectly well to be a
great land."

Ilioliuk, " the curving beach," more commonly known as Una-
laska, population 317, one mile below Dutch Harbour, is port of entry
for all ships passing in or out of Bering Sea and the metropolis of all
the region " to westward." The U. S. commissioner and deputy-col-

THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS.

143

lector reside here. The Greek church is second in pize and importance
to the cathedral at Sitka, and the bishop for a time resided here. Be-
sides the Russian parish school, there are a Government day-school and a
Methodist mission. It is headquarters for the Alaska Commercial Co.,
which occupies the old fort of the Russian Company. The ships of the
Pacific arctic whaling fleet call heie for water, coal, supplies, and mail,
transship cargo, leave and receive news of the ice line, the position, and
catch of each whaler. In 1891, 1892, and l89;i, during the modus vi-
vendi, it was headtpiarters of the United States and Hritish flcpts en-
gaged in the Bering Sea patrol, and lines of capturcl sealers often
waited at anchor.

There is direct communication with Sitka, 1,250 miles, by monthly
mail steamer, from April to October, and fre<iuent communicati«>ii with
San Francisco, 2,100 miles, by traders' supply steamers, which take pas-
sengers under certain conditions.

Excursions from Unalaska.

Mrs. Shepard's "Cruise of the Rush " shows how agreeably timcnuiy
be passed on this northern isle, and suggests minor excursions to the
miniature forest, the waterfall, and the cave near Dutch Ilarbotn-. The
wealth of wild flowers carpeting all the hillsides is the delight of every
visitor, and none weary of the beautiful harlxmr and the landscape
wealth around. Those travelling by the Sitka steamer will find them-
selves the guests of the X. A. C. Co. at their Dutch Harbour establish-
ment, and every arrangement is made for those wishing to hunt, fish,
botanize, or climb.

Bogoslov volcano, with its sea-lion rookeries, is the great point of
attraction, and a day's excursion to this island of St. John the Theo-
logian is included in the tour from Sitka by the N. A. C. Co.'s vessel.
It lies in Bering Sea some 40 miles W. of Unalaska harbour, and rose
from the waters in 1796 after a day of Dmibling, thunder, and violent
explo-?ions, accoiiipanied by uiucli sulphurous gas and dense smoke.
The ocky mass grew after a similar demonstration in 1805. It con-
tinued to grow for a quarter century, often showing a light at night and
daikening the sun with its smoke by day. There weic distuibances in
1883, the year of Krakatoa's gieat eruption, and showers of fine ashes
fell from concealing clouds that finally lifted and disclosed a second
peak joined to the first by a sandy isthmus. Ship ]{ock, 8(» ft. high,
stood on the isthmus. The earthquakes of 1889-'90 left only a thread

«9

144

THE BERING SEA AND SHORES.

of this isthmus, and in 1891 it had sunk beyond soundings, Ship Rock
had wholly disappeared, and a new peak was in action. The upper parts
of these peaks have been too hot for one to climb, and the Latense heat
and steam are rotting away the rocks, that drop continually. Sea-lions
swarm on the rocks and ledges along shore, and myriads of birds have
their nests on the warm rocks. A landing is usually made and oppor-
tunity given for all to gather specimens and souvenirs of the visit, cook
eggs over the steam-jets, and put the volcano to other practical uses.

Opportunity sometimes offers for a circuit of the island by sea, and
is an excursion much enjoyed. Makushiu Harbour, on the W. coast,
where Glottov and his Russians first landed in 1757, is .'some 30 miles
from Unalaska. The great mountain is easily climbed from that side.
Prof. Blake, Lieutenant Hodgson, and Dr. Kellogg, of Prof. Davidson's
expedition, climbed Maknshin, 5,961 ft., September, 1867, and found
•' a crater 2,000 ft. broad by estimate, and filled with snow, in the north-
western portion of which was an orifice giving vent to clouds of smoke
and sulphurous fumes."

The volcano of Vsevidoff, 8,000 ft., on Unimak I^iland, S. W. of Una-
laska, attracts attention. Borka, on the little island of the same mime
at the N. E. end of Unalaska Island, is an Aleut village of as extraordi-
nary neatness and cleanliness as the show villages of Holland.

The Bering Sea and Shores.

The Nushegak and Kuskokvim Rivers.

Bering Sea was described by Prof. Davidson as "a mighty reser-
voir of cod," and a large cod bank extends all along the W. side of the
great peninsula. The Nushegak River reachts the sea at Bristol Bay,
on whose shores are four large salmon canneries, and the king salmon
of the Kvichak and Nushegak average from 40 to 60 pounds' weight.
On this side of the peninsula all the coast people are Innuits or Esqui-
maux {c€H qui mianx), differing entirely from Aleut, Tlingit, and the
Tinneh or Athabascan tribes of the interior. They live in under-
ground huts, wear the loose parka or hooded smock, and skin boots,
and use dogs as draught animals. The Russians made few attempts
and had no success: in civilizing or Christianizing them. There is now
a Moravian mission at Carmel on the Nushegak, and one at Bethel on
the Kuskokvim, with Government contract schools at both places.

Kuskokvim Bay is the Fundy of this coast, the tide rising 60 and
60 ft, and rushing in in a great bore or wave. The Kuskokvim is the
second great river of the Territory, and navigable for 900 miles from

THE BERING SEA AND SHORES.

145

its mouth. Weil-populated Esquimaux Tillages line its banks, and the
natives have an abundant food supply in the salmon, white-Bsh, seals,
and beluga, or white whale. Prospectors have found gold on all these
Western rivers, and the fur-trade is considerable, the Kuskokvim
country furnishing the finest black bear skins in Alaska.

The Pribylov or Seal Islands*

These four volcanic islands lie 220 miles N. W. of Unalaska, veiled
in perpetual mists and fogs of the summer season, and ringed round
with drift ice in the winter. They are treeless, covered with moss and
grass, and brilliant wild flowers in their season. The odours of the
rookeries, where hundreds of thousands of seals gather annually, and
the slaughter-gi ounds, where millions of seals have been killed for a
century, is perceived far at sea, and, with the barking of the animals,
are often the mariner's only guide in those dense and protracted f jgs.
Only Government vessels are allowed to approach or enter thf; har-
bours.

St. Paul, the larger island, is 12 miles long and from 6 to 8 miles
wide, and its village is the headquarters of the N. A. C. Co., leasing the
seal fisheries. St. George, 30 miles N., is a little smaller, and between
them lie the tiny Otter and Walrus Islands. The 400 Aleuts inhabit-
ing the islands are gathered in tidy villages, with Greek churches and
school-houses. The islands are a Government reserve, and are leased
for terms of twenty years by the U. S. Treasury Department. For
over a century they have yielded more wealth than any gold-mine, but
with the settlement of the Northwest Coast their prosperity has dimin-
ished, and the seals will be exterminated as ruthlessly as those of the
antarctic.

For forty years Siberian traders hunted for the fabled island of
Amik, where they believed the " sea bears" lived. In 1786 Gerassim
Pribylov heard the barking through the fog and found the fur-seals'
summer home. Two million seals were killed within a year, and the
reckle. s slaughter so nearly exterminated the herds that Resanof or-
dered killing stopped for five years, when the rookeries regained their
numbers. Baranof used the Piibylovs as a bank. The sealskin, then
valued at $1 Mexican, was the unit of currency, and regularly taken in
payment for any commodity by American traders, who exchanged them
at Canton for silk and tea. In 1836 the islands were ringed with ice
into midsummer, the seals could not land, and the pups born in the
surf died with their mothers. The herd was again nearly extinct, and
Baron Wrangell stopped the killing until the rookeries had regained

146

THE BERING SEA AND RHOREfl.

if !

their numbers. Sir George Simpson (1844) found the company taking
20(i,«»U0 and 300,000 skins annually, and the market so overstocked
that the skins did not pay for carrying. In similar situations before as
many as 700,000 and 1,000,000 skins were thrown into the sea to keep
prices up, ami in Baranofs time improperly cured skins were thrown
away in as great numbers.

THE SEAL ISLAND LEASES.

Tlie value and importance of these islands were not appreciated at
the time of the transfer. No protection was afforded in 1 868, and
seven concerns enjoyed free sealing that season. In 1809 they were
declared a Government reserve and guarded by soldiers, and in 1870
the islands of St. Paul and St. George and the seal-fisheries were leased
for twenty years to the Alaska ( ommenial Co., of San Francisco,
which had previously bought all the buildings and the good-will of
the Russian American Fur Co. throughout Alaska. They were per-
mitted to kill 100,000 seals each year, 8(),00(» on St. Paul and 20,000
on St. George, for an annual rental of Sf>fi,'*00, a tax of ^2.62^ on
each skin, and 55 cents on each gallon of seal-oil. The lessees fur-
nished fuel and certain rations to the Aleuts, provided schools and med-
ical care, and paid them 40 cents for each skin taken. A special Tre:: J-
ury agent resided on the islands each season to protect Government
interests, and guards prevente<1 any killing on Walrus or Otter islets.
At the expiration of their lease the A. C. Co. had paid |5,956,565.67
to the Treasury, or 4 per cent interest on the sum paid for all Alaska.

The A. C. Co. was believed to have divided from ^900,000 to $1,-
000,000 profits each year between 12 original stockholders. Holding
also the lease of the Comandorski Islands from Russia, they controlled
the sealskin supply of the world ; auJ having 36 other trading stations
in Alaska, they monopolized land furs as well. Salmon canneries and
coal-mines added to the profits of this most remarkable commercial
company, whose preserves were not invaded nor monopoly threatened
until towarii the end of the Pribylov lease. By their management
salted sealskins rose in value from ^2.50 to |-V in 1868, to $10 and
$18 in 1884, and to $30 in 1890.

In 1890 a twenty-year lease was aAvarded to the North American
Commercial Co., of San Francisco, for an annual rental of $100,000, a
tax of $9.62 on each 100,000 nkins taken, the islands then to return
over a million a year to the (Jovernment, or 14 per cent on Secre-
tary Seward's investment. Pelagic sealing and rookery raiding by the
Victoria fleet had so dimini.shed the herd that the lessees were only
permitted to take 20,000 skins the first season, and for three seasons
while the seal question was a matter of diplomatic discussion only the
few seals sufficient for a food supply for the natives were killed.

CALLORHINUS URSINl S, THE FUR SEAL.

For half the year the Aleuts and foxes have their islands und's-
turtcid. In May the *' sea bears *' swim through the Aleutian passes
after a six months' circuit of a kite-shaped track whose lower loop is

THE BERING BEA AND 8HORE8.

147

in the latitude of Los Angeles. They are followed as they sweep close
along the Northwest Coast by the increa»*ing fleet of sealing schooners,
whose hunters secure about one seal out of ten shot. At the rooker-
ies, polygamous families herd in little groups on the rocks, and the
patriarch stays at home with the little black pups all summer, while
the mother seals swim even 200 miles in search of their daily 10 and
20 pounds of cod or salmon. They are timid creatures, and at any
strange noise they rush to the water. The keeping of a pet dog lost
one Russian manager .$100,000 in one season by the depopulation of
a rookery. No fire-arms, whistles, or bells are allowed on the island.

The seal's fur is in best condition immediately on arrival, but he
assumes a new coat in August, which is in fine condition when about
to leave at the end of September. Only male seals from two to four
years of age are killed. These bachelors herd alone, and the Aleuts
running between them and the water in the early morning drive them
slowly to the killing-ground, where they are de.-^patched by a blow on
the head, quickly bled, and the skins taken to the salting-house. Ex-
cept as the Aleuts make use of the flesh and blubber, the carcass goes
to waste. T!ie cool, moist climate prevents these killing-grounds from
causing an epidemic, and by the next spring the hollow, bird-like bones
are lost in the grass and earth.

The salted skins are sent to London, the fur-market of the world,
auctioned oif, and prepared for use. These perfect " Alaskas " com-
mand first price, and " Victorias " — the poachers' riddled, torn, and
slashed skins — inferior prices. Seven London firms, employing some
10,000 workmen, finish sealskins at a cost of 7 shillings each. No
machines have been able to supplant the many hand processes requir-
ing the greatest skill and nicety. The skins are worked in sawdust,
cleaned, scraped, washed, shaved, plucked, given from 8 lo 12 coats of
dye with a hand-brush, washed, and freed from any remaining grease
by a bath of hot sawdust or sand. The Chinese began plucking and
dyeing fur-seal over a century ago to furnish an imitation of sea-otter.
French furriers have insisted on the darker dyes, but the strong nut-
gall and acid render the skins less durable than when dyed to the
bright brown of 30 years ago. Finished skins pay a duty of 20
per cent on re-entering the United States.

und'3-
passes
loop is

THE BERING SEA QUESTION.

As sealskins rose in value and the seafaring population increased
on the Northwest Coast, pelagic sealing and poaching had their rise.
A first poacher went from San Francisco in 1872. A revenue cutter
was soon detailed to cruise in Bering Sea and seize such craft. The
sealers then took out British papers and made Victoria their home
port, and by 1879 brought in and reported 12,500 skins to the Cana-
dian officials. In 1886 they brought in 38,9o7 skins; the rookeries
were openly raided ; three Canadian vessels were seized ; the British
minister at Washington protested, and the Beting Sea Question arose.

In 1887 six Canadian vessels were seized, and in the brief and argu-

148

THE BERING SEA AND SHORES.

ment prepared by A. K. Dulaney, U. S. District Attorney at Ritka, the
first formal plea was made that Bering Sea was an inland water, a
mare dansnm — no part of the Pacific Ocean ; and that the United
States and Russian boundary line from Bering Strait to Attn Island
enclosed protected seal waters within which the United States had com-
plete jurisdiction by virtue of rights obtained from Russia.

In 1890 over 100 schooners trailed the Pribylov herd up the coast ;
and while the lessees of the islands could only take 2(>,0()0 skins, 50,-
000 skins were brought into Victoria. Schooners boldly raided the
rookeries, and the Aleuts battled with the crews.

June 15, 1891, after every schooner had cleared from Victoria,
Great Britain agreed to the modus vivemli proposed by the United
States, whereby all sealing in Bering Sea by citizens of either national-
ity should cease. The joint patrol of gunV)oat8 and cutters warned
73 and seized 6 schooners in Bering Sea. Commissioners from the
United States and Great Britain visited the islands and met in confer-
ence at Washington, in February, 1892. The modtm vlvendi was re-
newed for another season, and a treaty of arbitration negotiated. The
seizure of the supply steamer Coquitlum off Nuchek prevented the
Victoria fleet from invading Bering Sea to any extent during 1892.

The tribunal of arbitration met in Paris, March 23, 1893. Its mem-
bers were : Justice John M. Harlan and Senator John T. Morgan, arbi-
trators for the United States ; Lord Hannen and Sir John Thompson,
for Great Britain ; Baron de Courcelles, for France ; Gregers Gram,
for Sweden ; and the Marquis Venosta, for Italy. Hon. John W. Fos-
ter appeared as agent for the United States ; Hon. E. J. Phelps, J. C.
Carter, Frederick Coudert, H. W. Blodgett, and R. Lansing, as counsel.
Hon. C. H. Tupper appeared as agent for Great Britain, and Sir Charles
Russell, Sir Richard Webster, Mr. C. Robinson, and Mr. W. II. Cross
as counsel.

The arbitration covers the following points :

1. What exclusive jurisdiction in the sea known as the Bering Sea,
and what exclusive right in the seal-fisheries therein, did Russia assert
and exercise piior and up to the time of the cession of Alaska to the
United States ?

2. How far were these claims of jurisdiction as to the seal-fish-
eries recognized and conceded by Great Britain ?

8. Was the body of water now known as Bering Sea included in the
phrase "Pacific Ocean " as used m the Treaty of 1825 between Great
Britain and Russia, and what right, if any, in Bering Sea was held and
exclusively exercised by Russia after said treaty ?

4. Did not all the rights of Russia as to jurisdiction and as to the
seal-fisheries in Bering Sea, east of the water boundary, in the treaty
between the United States and Russia of the 30th of March, 1867, pass
unimpaired to the United States under that treaty ?

6. Has the United States any right, and, if so, what right of pro-
tection of property in the fur-seais frequenting the islands of the United
States in Bering Sea, when such seals are found outside the ordinary
three-mile limit ?

THE BERING SEA AND SHORES.

149

other Islands in Bering 8ea.

Le^s than 300 Esquimaux manage to exist on St, ^fatfhew and St.
Lawrenrc, and nearly all the inhabitants of the latter island died of
starvation in 1878-79. Polar bears come down to these islands on the
ice-floes, and their glossy winter-killed skins, averaging from 12 to in
ft. in length, bring from $80 to $50 in trade.

St. Michael's, on an island in Norton Sound, 70 miles N. of the
Yukon's mouth, is commercial headquarters for the Yukon and Arctic
regions, and farthest trading-post of the A. C. Co. Miners and
freight exchange from ships to light-draught river steamers, as with its
many mouths no navigable ship-channel into the Yukon has been
found, and bars extend for 100 miles from shore. There are 1,370
miles of navigation between St. Michaels and Forty-Mile Creek, at the
crossing of the international boundary line on the Yukon. There are a
Swedish mission and school in Norton Sound, and a Congregational
mission and school at the large Esquimaux village just below Cope
Prince of Wales.

The Bureau of Education, in order to provide a future food sup-
ply for the natives, has established a reindeer farm at Port Clarence,
bringing the domesticated animals from the Siberian side and train-
ing Innuit boys to care for them.

leal-fish-

Bering Strait.

Bering Strait, dividing the continents of Asia and North Amer-
ica, is 36 miles wide between East Cape and Cape Prince of Wales,
with the three Diomede Islands standing midway. The shallow water
and upward current prevent any great icebergs floating down through
this strait, and the ice to northward has rarely been seen to exceed
50 ft. in height above the water. There are no glaciers on either the
Bering or Arctic coast, hence no icebergs, but only packs and floes.
The Jeannette passed through this strait in 1879 and sunk off the
Siberian coast ; and Nordenskjold brought the Veya successfully through
from the Atlantic in 1880. Eug6ne Sue's Wandering Jew is described
as standing on the Siberian promontory anu conversing across the
waters with the unknown female on Cape Prince of Wales ; end tele-
graph cables and railway bridges have been planned to connect the
continents at this point.

■H

150

IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN.

In the Arctic Ocean.

The Arctic Circle is drawn across the water just above the capes,
and the true Land of the Midnight Sun is entered. The shores of Kot-
zebue Sound are the same marsh and tundra, covered with summer wild
flowers, as seen along all the coast from the point of the Aliaska Pen-
insula.

The Pacific Arctic is the last whafing-f/round left. The Pacific
whaling fleet, which numbered 600 vessels a century ago, includes but
50 now. There are 10 steam whalers, and they obtain fuel from the
coal-veins at Cape Lisbuine, discovered and used by Captain C. L.
Hooper during his arctic cruises in search of the Jeanncttf. The aver-
age whaler is a dilapidated bark or brig, which with difficulty obtains a
crew and can .<»el(lom be insured. A few of these whalers have wintered
off the mouth of the Mackenzie River, in order to be on the ground in
the spring. The crew go on shares, each man on board taking a per-
centage of the season's catch on his return to San Francisco. Oil is
not the priz< sought now, and the bowhead, or Kadink whale, ranks the
sperm, since whalebone commands !*g6 a pound, and a single bowhead
yields fiom $5,000 to $7,000 in bone. The whalers trade with Sibe-
rian and Alaskan natives, and a revenue cutter patrols the Arctic each
season to see that Ikpiors and fire-arms arc not introduced ; to aid and
rescue whalers when necessary ; to give them communication with the
world below, and to administer justice.

Point Barrowy named by Beechey in 1826, which corresponds in
latitude to the North Cape of Norway, is 600 miles E. of Bering Strait,
and the most northern point of Alaska and of the continent. A U. S.
signal station was maintained there for two years, as one in a chain of
Arctic stations maintained by European governments for magnetic and
meteorological observations. A refuge station was next built, 60 out
of 87 whalers having been wrecked near that point, and the crews of
12 whalers preferring to go down with their ships in 1877, than to
chance the slower death in small boats or on shore. A Government
school and Presbyterian mission was built in 1 890 to care for the Es-
quimaux settled around the station. It is visited and revictualled an-
nually by the revenue cutter.

A first pleasure tourist visited the arctic whaling ground in 1891, a
New York yachtsman paying $25,000 for the three months' cruise in
a Japanese steamer chartered at Yokohama. Its presence created almost

IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN.

151

189l,a

ruise in

almoet

as great an excitement as the Confederate privateer Shenandoah when
it appeared among the New Bedford fleet in 1865, captured and burned
36 whalers, and sent three to San Francisco as cartels. The Shenan-
doah made but one port in the thirteen months after leaving (ilasgow.
It was the only vessel that carried the Confederate flag around the
world, and carried it for six months after Appomattox, It visited every
ocean save the Antarctic, carried its anchors at its bows for eight months,
ran 38,000 statute miles, and never lost a chase. A Melbourne whaler
warned and saved many Yankee ships, and the Shenandoah hunte<I for
the Australian ship in vain, else Shenandoah claims might have aggre-
gated more than $6,000,000.

Demarcation Point, 600 miles E. of Point Barrow, is the inter-
national boundary line, where "the meridian line of the I41st degree in
its prolongation reaches the Frozen Ocean."

Beyond lie the Northeast and the Northwest Pasdagc, in search for
which two generations of explorers saciificed their lives. The country
"beyond the north wind" still hues, and .scientist, mariner, and tiresidc
tourists dream of the place where latitude stops, longitude centers,
time ends and time begins, and where the sun circles around the mm-
mer sky brooding above the pole.

7"^

III

BOOKS OF REFERENCE.

Thk following list contains the more easily accessible books con-
cerning Alaska and the Northwest Coast :

'^AKLY VoYAOES.

Beechet, F. W. Narrative of a Voyage in H. M. S. Blossom in the
Years 1825-'28. London, 1831.

Belcher, Sir Edward. Narrative of a Voyage in 11. M. S. Sulphur
during the Years l83r)-'42. London, 1843.

Cook, James. The Account of his Third and Last Vovagc in the
Years 1776-'80. By James King.

Dixon, George. Voyage around the World in 1786-'88. London,
1789.

Lanosdorff, Georoe H. VON. Voyages. London, 1813.

La Pkrouse, Jean Fran^ols. Voyage around the World. London,
1798.

LisiANSKi, Imri Feodorovicii. Voyage around the World, 1803-'6.
London, 1814.

LcTKE, Feodor Pktrovich. Voyage autour du Monde. Paris, 1835.

Marchand, Etienne. Voyage around the W^orld. Written by C. P.
Fleurien.

Meares, John. Voyages. London, 1790.

Poole. Queen Charlotte Islands London, 1872.

PoRTLOCK, Nathaniel. Voyage around the World. London, 1789.

Simpson, Sir George. Narrative of a Journey around the World.

London, 1847.

(Sir George Simpson wa-" Governor of the Hudson Bay Company, and in
1840- '48 visited all the stations of his company, the Spanish colonies in Cali-
fornia, the Russian settlements in North America, and returned to Europe
by way of Siberia.)

Vancouver, George. A Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific
Ocean and around the World, performed in the Years 1790-'96.
London, 1798.

(Prof. Dall has called attention to the fact that there is no biography of
Vancouver. The date of his birth is not known. He was midshipman with
Captain Cook on his third and last voyage. While sui)erintending the publi-
cation of his vovages in London, Vancouver was challenged by a young officer
whom he bad disciplined during a cruise. Old and feet)le, he was unwilling
and unable to meet him, nor did be think the exercise of naval authority war-
11

154

BOOKS OF REFERENCE.

ranted a duel tm defence. His aHHailant meeting him In Bond Street after the
rt'fuHal to fluht, Htruck Vancouver in the face and pul)lirly in8ulte<i him. The
old ofHcer, humiliated and chagrined, failed rapidly, and died May 10, 179H,

IUHt before hin voyaseH were pu))llMhed. He Ih Iniried in the churchyard at
lam, near Richmond, Hurrey. Dr. Dall haw found reference to the challenge
to tlie duel in a Btory of CharleH Keade. " What hat* U'come of Lord Carael-
ford'H BtMly r'-Hari)er'8 Weeltly, May 0. 187«l).

Von Starhlin, J. Account of the New Northern Archipelago, Lon-
don, 1774.

(ThiB Im the flrHt publiwhed account of Berlnp'B, Tchirlkow's, and other Rub-
HJan dlHcoveriCH on the coawt of North America.)

W1LKE8, CiiARLEH, U. S. N. Narrative of the U. S. Exploring Expe-
dition, 1838-'42.

Badlam, Alkxandkr. The Wonders of Alaska. San Francisco, 1889.

Balloit, Mati'rin M. The New El Dorado. Boston, 1888.

Baxcrokt, Hudekt *iowk. VVorkn. Ili.story of the Northwest Coast,
vols, xxvii and xxviii. History of Washington, Idaho, and Montana,
vol. xxxi. History of British Cohiuihia, vol. xxxii. History of Alaska,
vol. xxxiii.

Beardslrk, Lkstkr a. Letters in Forest and Stream in 1879, signed
" Piseco." Report on Affairs in Alaska, Congressional Document.

Bkm., W. H. The Stickeen River and its lilaciers. Scribner's Monthly,
April, 1879.

Brioos, Horack. Letters from Alaska. Buffalo.

CoLLis, Mrs. Skptima M. A Woman's Trip to Alaska. New York,

1890.

Dall, William H. Alaska and its Resources. Boston, 1870. The
Coast Pilot of Alaska, 1883. Partial List of Books, Ma|)s, and Charts
relating to Alaska and the Adjacent Region. (A (juarto volume of 210
pages, cataloguing the literature of the region down to the year 1882.)

Davidson, Gkorgk. Coast Pilot of Alaska. 1869.

Dawson, Gkoroe M. 3Ionograph on the Queen Charlotte Islands in
Annual Report of Dominion Geological Survey.

Elliott, Henry W. Monograph on the Seal Islands. Census Report,
1880. Our Arctic Province.

FiNCK, Henry T. The Pacific Coast Scenic Tour. New York, 1890.

Glave, E. J. Pioneer Pack-IIorses in Alaska. Century Magazine,
September and October, 1892.

Greenhow, Robert. The Northwest Coast.

(Mr. Greenhow was Librarian of the Department of State at the time the
Oregon question rose to prominence, and his boolc \s almost the argument
of the United States case, containing a resume of all the early history of
the region.)

Hallock, Charles. Our New Alaska. New York, 1886.
Hine, C. C. Alaska Illustrated. Milwaukee, 1889.

B<X)KH OF RKFERKNCK.

155

(Contiiiris a skotdi of life at Sitku
(A brief Hketch of the Krut iniosion

York,

Ihvino, Wakiiinoton. AHtoi-ia.
during Baranof^n time.)

Jackson, Kev. Sheldon. Alaaka.
work.)

Kaur, II. W. Skton. The Shore?* and Alps of Alaska. liOiidon, 1HS7.
ProeeedingH of Kovul (k'ogriiphie Society, V(d ix, IMS".

Maynk, R. C Four Years in British Columbia and Vancouver's In-
land. London, 1802.

Milton, Ciikadlk. The Northwest Passage by liand. London, 1865.

Mint, John. Pieturesiiue California, Oregon, Washington, and Alaska.
J. Dcming. New York and San Francisco.

NiBLACK, Alhkkt P., U. S. N. The Coast Indians of Southern Alaska
and Northern British Columbia. Report of U. S. National Museum

1887-'88.

NiCHOLis, Henry E., U. S. N. U. S. Cob at Pilot of Alaska. 1892.

Petroff, Ivan. Population and Resouires of Alaska. (A volume of
the Eleventh Census Report, 1890.) Internal Commerce of the United
States. (Published by Bureau of Statit cs, U. S. Treasury Depart-
ment.) U. S. Census Report, 1880, and U. S. Census Report, 1890.

(Mr. Petroflf gathered materials for II. II. Bancroft's Ilistnry of the North-
west Coast and Alaska, and wrote a part of the llistury of Alaska in that
series down to the year 1841.)

PiKRPOiNT, Edward. From Fifth Avenue to Alaska. New York, 1883.

Ray, R. C, U. S. N. The Coast of British Columbia. U. S. Hydro-
graphic Office, 1891.

Reclus, I^LiSKE. Geographic Universelle, Boreal America, vol. xv.

Reid, Henry Fielding. Studies of Muir (Jlacier. National Geo-
graphic Magazine, March, 1892-

Rollins, Alice Wellington. Palm to Glacier. New York, 1892.

Russell, Israkl C. An Expedition to Mt. St. Elias. In National
Geographic Magazine, May, 1891, and Thirteenth Report of Director
of U.S. Geological Survey. (See also Century Majazine. April, 1891,
and June, 1892.)

ScHWATKA, F?iEDERicK. Along Alaska's Great River. New York,
1886.

SciDMORE, Eliza Ruhamah. Alaska : Its Southern Coast and the Sit-
kan Archipelago. Boston, 1885. Alaska, in Reports of Director of
the Mint, 1883 and 1884. Monograph. Census Report, 1890.
Harper's Weekly, August 30, 1884, March 2«, 1885, May 14 and
July 23, 1892. Century Magazine, July, 1891. Wide Awake,
March, 1885. No hwest Magazine, June, 1891. New York Times,
October, 1884. St Louis Globe-Democrat, 1883 and 1884.

Sessions, Francis C. From Yellowstone Park to Alaska. New York,
1890.

166

BOOKS OF Rp]FERENCE.

Shepherd, Isabel. The Cruise of the Rush. San Francisco.
Sphoat. Scenes and Studies of Savage Life. London, 1 868.
Swan, James G. The Northwest Coast. New York, 1857.
St. John. The Sea of Mountains. London, 1877.
Victor, Mrs. Frances Fuller.

(Mrs. Victor asBieted in gathering materials for II. H. Bancroft's hlBtories,
and wrote the volumes pertaining to Oregon.)

WaRdman, George. A Trip to Alaiiika. Boston, 1884.

Webb, Sewakd. Yellowstone Park and Alaska. New York, 1890.

Wellcome, Henry. The Story of Metlakahtla. New York, 1887.

Wells, Ensign Roger, U. S. N., and John W. Kelly. English-Eskimo
and Eskimo-English Vocabularies. U. S. Bureau of Education — Cir-
cular of Information No. 2 — 1890.

Whymper, Frederick. Travel and Adventure in the Territory of
Alaska. London, 1868.

Winthrop, Theodore. Canoe and Saddle.

Wood, C. E. S. Among the Tlingits in Alaska. Century Magazine,
July, 1882.

Woodman, Abby M. Picturesque Alaska. Boston, 1889.

Wright, G. Frederick. The Ice Age in North America. New York,
1888.

^1 d

s histories,

, 1890.

1887.

h-Eskiino
;ion — Cir-

ritory of
'lagazine,
;w York,

Sunlocks, London,

*/ Bedford Street, iv.c,

Afav iSgj.

A LIST OF

Mr. WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S

Publications

AND

Forthcoming Works

i H

The Books mentioned in this List can
be obtained to order by .ny Book,
seller i/not in stock, ,r will L- sent

by the Publisher Post free on receipt
of Price. '^

5nOe£ ot Butbora.

PAGE

TAGE

Alexander 13 |

Kipling and Balestier . . . 11

Anstey

» •

Lanza ....

Arbuthnot .

Le Caron .

Atherton .

Lee ....

Baddcley .

Lei^hton .

Balestier

10, 14

Lelaud

Barrett

Lie ... ,

Bchrs .

Lowe ....

7 ^

Bendall

Lowry

Bjornson

4, 12

Lynch ....

Bowen

Maartens .

Brown . .

Maeterlinck

Brown and Grifiit

h> '.

Maude

Buchanan .

11. 14

Mantegaz/a

Butler

Maupassant

Caine . . .

9. »3

Maurice

Caine . . ,

Merrinian .

Cambridge .

Michel

Chester

Mitford

»3

Clarke

Muore

Coloinb

Murray

Compayrd .

N orris

Coppce

Ouida ....

Coupcrus

Palacio-Vald('s .

Crack.iulhor|jc .

Pearce

1 1

Davidson .

Pennell

Dawsun

I'hilips

l)c Quinccy

Phelps

DowNon

I'ineri) . ,

Ecdtn

Kawnslcy . .

Ellwanser .

Kenan

Ely .

Richter

Farrar .

RiddcU

Fitch .

, c

Rives .

Forbes

Roberts (CO.!).)

Foihergill .

Roberts (A vnn)

Franzns .

. 12

Salaman (,M. (,'.)

Frederic

. 8, ij

Salaman (J. S.)

Garner

.Sarcey

Garnclt

•Scudamore . .

Gaulot

Serao . . .

Gilchrist .

Sergeant . .

Gore

Steel .

Gosse .

8,11

Tallentyre .

Grand

Tasma . .

II. 13

Gray . .

Teriy .

Grav (NTaxwcU)

'i'bui-.Nlon .

Griffiths .

Tolstoy

12, 15

Hall .

Tree .

Hanus

Valera

Harland

'■4

Walisze\\.-ki

Hardy

Ward .

Heine .

• 6, 7

Warden

Henderson .

Waugh

Howard

Weilenieycr

Hughes

West .

Hungerfurd

• n. 13

Whistler .

• 4. 8

Ibsen .

White

Irving .

Whitman .

IngerboU

Williams .

J«ger .

Wood

Teaffreson .

Keeling

Zangwill . .

. 8, II

ZoL ....

Kimball .

MR. WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST.

In preparation.

REMBRANDT:

HIS LIFE, HIS WORK. AND HIS TIME.

EMILE MICHEL,

MEMBER OF THE INSTITUTE OF FRANCE
EDITED AND PREFACED BY

FREDERICK WEDMORE.

Nothing need be said in justification of a comprehensive book
upon the life and work of Rembrandt. A classic among classics,
he is also a modern of moderns. His works are to-day more
sought after and better paid for than ever before ; he is now at
the zenith of a fame which can hardly decline.

The author of this work is perhaps, of all living authorities on
Rembrandt, the one who has had the largest experience, the best
opportunity of knowing all that can be known of the master.

The latest inventions in photogravure and process-engraving
have enabled the publisher to reproduce almost everything that is
accessible in the public galleries of Europe, as well as most of the
numerous private collections containing specimens of Rembrandt's
work in England and on the Continent.

This work will be published in two volumes 4to, each containing
over 300 pages. There will be over 30 photogravures, about 40
coloured reproductions of paintings and chalk drawings, and 250
illustrations in the text.

Two Editions will be printed — one on Japanese vellum, limited
to 200 numbered copies (for England and America), with duplicates
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An illustrated prospectus is now ready and may be had on applica-
tion. Ordei's will be received by all booksellers, in town and country.

! I

% \

I'l

!l'?

MR. WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST.

]fortbcoming Morha,

MEMOIRS.

By Charles Goufkey Lelamu (Haus Breitmaun) lu Two Volumes, 8vu.
With Portraits.

THE ROMANCE OF AN EMPRESS.

Catharine II. of Rubsia. By R. Waliszewski. In Two Volumes, Svo. With
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A FRIEND OF THE QUEEN.

Being Correspondence between Marie Antoinette and Monsieur de Fersen.
By Paul Gaulot. In One Volume, fevo.

LIFE OF HEINRICH HEINE.

By Richard Gaknett, LL.D. With Portrait. Crown 8vo (uniform with the
translation of Heine's Works).

LITTLE JOHANNES.

By Frederick van Eeden. Translated from tiie Dutch by Clara Bell.
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STRAY MEMORIES.

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A NEW PLAY.

By BjoRNSTjEKNE BjoRNSON. Translated from the Norwegian.

SONGS ON STONE.

By J. McNeill Whistler. A Series of lithographic drawings in colour
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There v ill also be issued ^o copies on Japanese paper, signed iy the artist^
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MR. WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST.

^be (Brcat £l)ucator0»

A Series of Volumes by Eminent Writers, frescntine^ in their
entirety ^^A Biographical History of Education.'^

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Each subject will form a complete volume, crown 8vo, 5*.

Noiv ready.

ARISTOTLE, and the Ancient Educational Ideals.

Thomas Davidson, M.A., LL.D.
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LOYOLA, and the Educational System of the Jesuits. By
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confer real dignity on those engaged in it, we recommend him to read Mr.
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ALCUIN, and the Rise of the Christian Schools. By

Professor Andrew F. West, Ph.D.

FROEBEL, and Education by Self-Activity. By H. CorR-
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ABELARD, and the Origin and Early History of Uni-
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ROUSSEAU ; and, Education according to Nature. By
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HORACE MANN, and Public Education in the United

States. By Nicholas Murray Butler, Ph.D.

BELL and LANCASTER, and Public Elementary Edu-
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Volumes on Herbart, and Modern German Education ; and Pestalozzi :
or, the Friend and Student of Children, to follow.

h,.

6 M^. W/LUAM IIETNEMANN'S LIST.

THE WORKS OF HEINRICH HEINE.

TRANSLATED BY

CHARLES GODFREY LELAND, M.A., F.R.L.S.

(HANS BREITMANN.)

Issued in two editions : — The Library Edition, in crown 8vo, cloth, at 5*.
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HEINE'S PROSE WORKS,

Are now ready.

I. FLORENTINE NIGHTS, SCHNABELEWOPSKI,
THE RABBI OF BACHARACH, and SHAKE-
SPEARE'S MAIDENS AND WOMEN.

XL, HI. PICTURES OF TRAVEL. 1823 -1828. Ip Two

Volumes.

IV. THE SALON. Letters on Art, Music, Popular Life,

and Politics.
v., VI. GERMANY. In Two Volumes.

VII., VIH. FRENCH AFFAIRS. Letters from Paris 1832,
and Lutetia. In Two Vols,

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THE POETIC V^ORKS OF HEINRICH HEINE.

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THE BOOK OF SONGS.

Folloroed by

NEW POEMS.

ATTA TROLL, GERMANY and ROMANCERO.

LAST POEMS.

*^ Large Paper Edition, limited to 100 Numbered Copies, 15J. each, tut.

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JKAFFKESON', Adtlior of "The Real Lord Byron,"' I've, In Two Volumes
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ALFRED, LORD TENNYSON: a Study of his Life and

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«■■■■

wmmm

I ^

MR. Vf^ILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST.

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MANUAL OF ASSAYING GOLD, SILVER, COPPER,

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LONDON:
WILLIAM H E I N E IvI A N N,

21 BEDFORD STREET, W.C.

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Ck>pyrlght 1891, by Chas. B. Feb.

itt Light Houses.

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