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 1980 
 
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PRIOE 25 Cw 
 
 PidffUSHCi) BY 
 
h^'ft/'tlHtti«»«iEii^.) 
 
w 
 
 I -if ■ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ANCIENT AND MODERN, 
 
 BKINO A COLLBCTION 
 
 OP" 
 
 NOTES FOR TOURISTS. 
 
 BY 
 
 E. T. D. CHAMBERS. 
 
 -♦-♦-►- 
 
 Published by S. L. Swett. 
 
 Temple Building, Montreal. 
 
 I 
 
FC 2.9 "^^ 
 .1% 
 
 BECAUSE 
 ^„BV OCCUPY THE SO,L H.LLOWF.O .V THE HEROIC DEEnS OF 
 
 The F.HST EUROPEAN INHABITANTS OF CANADA. 
 COLONIAL MASTERS OF HALF A CONTINENT, 
 
 ,.0M WHOM MANV OE THEM MAV CLMM A L^EAE DESCKKT , 
 
 AND , 
 
 BECAUSE THEV HAVE FOUR TIMES HONORED ME 
 WITH UNANIMOUS ELECTlo i 
 
 TO THE 
 
 CITY COUNCIL OF QUEBEC, 
 
 1 DEDICATE THIS BOOKLET 
 
 TO 
 
 THE ELECTORS OF ST. LOUIS WARD, 
 
 «LE PREMIER QU ARTIER" 
 
 OF THE 
 OLD CITY OF CHAMPLAIN. 
 
Quebec. 
 
 'She deams above her trranite throne • 
 Her Kray walls -rird her ample zone • 
 She queens the North, supreme, alone ;" 
 
 O sings the poet of the Sierras. And in introducing his inimitable picture 
 of Quebec, he sounds for us the following melodious passage:— 
 
 "•One enters upon the story and description of this wonderful city with great 
 hesitation and a feeling of unfitness. For Dickens, LeMoine, Bancroft, Howells 
 and mdeed a hundred of others have said great things of these battlements] 
 cemented together by the best blood of centuries. Quebec is the storehouse of 
 American history, and the most glorious of cities,-beautiful, too, as a picture." 
 
 And what Joaquin Miller found wonderful and glorious and beautiful in 
 Quebec, is just what tourists of every class and every land find equally so. She 
 stands at the very threshold of this strong and impatient New World, in 
 this age of progressive activity and enterprise, like a little patch of mediaeval 
 Europe, transplanted, it is true, upon a distant shore, but shutting out by her 
 muiarsurroundings, the influences that the whole of the surrounding continent 
 has failed to exercise upon her. 
 
 ypi«!ai:g-ji».<iMij;»rj;ij^\.»-.'^»iaf. 
 
 iSSSS^ 
 
^SOutm 
 
 
Hard by the nineteenth century Niagara of relentless worry and bustle* 
 yet app.ucntiy beyond the reach of that resistless torrent of commercial compe- 
 titi m anil tur.n )il of contention for fniancial supremacy, she continues upon the 
 calm and even tenor of her peaceful way, unmindful of the disquiet and unrest 
 prevailing without her w.ills. Time works few changes in Quebec. True to 
 the traditions of her pious founders, :jhe remains to this day the city of Champlain 
 and Laval. The battlements behind which she remains secluded were erected 
 by the religious fervor, missionary zeal and enduring fortitude of "the pioneers 
 of France in the New World," strengthened by the language, the customs and 
 religion of the "Old World France" whence they sprung. Cemented further, 
 as the American poet so beautifully expresses it, " by the best blood of centuries,' 
 these battlements have successfully defied alike the ravages of ruthless time and 
 relentless foe. Her gates, thrown wide and hospitably open to peaceful visitors, 
 have been defiantly closed in the face of invading foes, and even under the 
 most adverse circumstances, capitulation was only agreed to on condition that 
 the peculiar fortifications of her people, erected by the devotion of theit early 
 leaders, should be perpetually maintained. It was this maintenance of their 
 ancient ramparts that secured to England the allegiance of her French subjects 
 in the New World, when her English speaking colonists broke into open 
 revolt. It secured to Britain the fortress of Quebec, and caused the repulse of 
 the bn "e Montgomery. It stands to-day an apparently insurmountable barrier 
 to the i..:i.iexation of Canada to the United States, and elicited from a prominent 
 French Canadian statesman, the assurance that the last gun in defence of 
 British sovereignty in Canada would be fired by a French Canadian. No 
 Chinese wall was ever more jealously guarded, or more remarkable in its effects 
 up >n the territory which it enclosed, than these peculiar old battlements of a 
 co.nparatively modern city. " Progress," says Joaquin Miller, " has gone by the 
 other way. No greasy railroad has yet come screeching and screaming up the 
 heights that Wolfe climbed. She sits above the tide of commerce." The number 
 and inlluence of her priests and churches, the wealth and dimensions of her 
 conventual establishments, the piety and virtue of her people, the variety and 
 extent of her educational institutions, the unexcelled beauty of her natural 
 surroundings, the absence of commercial turmoil and competition, and the 
 story of her glorious past, are alike the objects of her pride. 
 
3{qw sjy^mericaRs see Quebec. 
 
 S a rule, American tourists do not sec Quebec at all, not even those that 
 visit the city for the express purpose of cloin^^ so. In a quaint little 
 volinnc printed in 1831, l)y Thos. Gary & Co., and entitled 
 "Quebec and its Knvirons," the author says: 
 
 "It is to be ()l)s('r\ed that our American friends unfortunately visit Quebec 
 as the last lion in their tour, and generally disembark from the steamboat from 
 Montreal, remain 24 hours, and ihen return without seeing anything except 
 a cursory view of the city, whereas Quebec and the environs abound in the 
 most romantic and charming views, certainly not equalled in the Canadas, and 
 to all admirers of the beauties of nature, affording a rich treat." And what was 
 true in 1831, is equally so in 1891. 
 
 There is scarcely a foot here which is not historic ground, which is not 
 consecrated, by well-established fact or tradition, to the memory of deeds of 
 heroism, of instances of undying piety and faith. The daring explorers of half a 
 continent, European heroes of martial strife and strategy, and their dusky 
 chieftain allies, noble matrons and self-sacrificing missionaries, whose doings live 
 for ever in the burning pages of Parkman, Lever, Charlevoix and Casgrain, 
 have left behind them here, monuments of their zeal for the cause of religion 
 and fatherland, or immortalized the ground which once they trod, the soil for 
 which they fiercely contended, the spot where first they planted the symbol of 
 their religion, or the dust which they reddened with their blood. And the tourist 
 who would think nothing of spending weeks in less healthful localities, and 
 less hallowed associations and surroundings, will often be satisfied that he has 
 done Quebec when he has cast a hurried glance at the Plains of Abraham and 
 the Monument to Wolfe, and driven rapidly over streets rendered historic by 
 the blood of heroes and martyrs, the red man's daring deeds and the carefully 
 preserved traditions of the historian and the novelist. Often in laying out the 
 plan for a summer trip extending over several days and perhaps weeks of time 
 will he begrudge a couple of days to the city and environs of Quebec, in his 
 apparent anxiety to get back to the heated sands of New England watering 
 places, or the din and confusion of the large centers of American civilization, 
 with their attendant bustle and heat and seven storey hotels. 
 
 A cursory glance from Dufferin Terrace of the magnificent view which 
 spreads itself around and below, sometimes satisfies him that he has thoroughly 
 familiarized himself with scenery such as is seldom equalled and never excelled, 
 which forms the subject of many a noted and wonderfully painted canvas, 
 and upon which eminent artists have feasted their eyes, day after day for 
 months together. The city itself and its immediate locality have afforded new 
 and varied treats at every turn, for several weeks at a time, to royal and noble 
 visitors, such as the Prince of Wales, the late Duke of Albany, the Princess 
 
TT 
 
 )se that 
 nt little 
 entitled 
 
 Quebec 
 >at from 
 except 
 d in the 
 las, and 
 •hat was 
 
 1 is not 
 dee :1s of 
 of half a 
 ir dusky 
 ings live 
 jasgrain, 
 
 religion 
 ; soil for 
 ymbol of 
 le tourist 
 ties, and 
 It he has 
 
 -lam and 
 storic by 
 
 carefully 
 g out the 
 :s of time 
 ec, in his 
 
 watering 
 v'ilization, 
 
 ;w which 
 
 loroughly 
 
 excelled, 
 
 \ canvas, 
 
 day for 
 rded new 
 md noble 
 
 Princess 
 
 Louise, Prince George of Wales, the Duke of Connaught, the late Dean 
 Stanley, Francis Parkman, Joat|uin Miller, W. I), Howells, Archdeacon Farrer, 
 the late Matthew Arnold, and many oihers whose names stand high on the roll 
 of fame or of letters. 
 
 Nor are Quebec's surroundings of less interest than the attractions of 
 the city itself. Kurope.in travellers have traced the greatest ressemblance 
 between the country, the houses and the members of the French Canadian 
 peasantry, and those of the oid PVenrh Provinces of Normandy and Picardy. 
 New lines of railway and colonization roads, have opened up communication 
 with chains of large lakes, wonderful in their picturesque scenery, and not less 
 remarkable in the marxeilous swarms and superiority of the tinny tribes which 
 inhabit them. Whether the tourist at Quebec be sportsman, naturalist or 
 geologist, a little observation will place temptations in his way, seductive enough 
 to influence him to an indefinite prolongation of his stay. Audubon and 
 Waterton in years gone by, spent several weeks in and around Quebec, making 
 a special study of the Canadian Fauna, and admirable public collections of 
 stuffed specimens may be seen at Laval University, and in the museum of the 
 H gh School, That well known scientist Sir William Dawson of Montreal, first 
 President of the Royal Society of Canada, devotes special attention in some of 
 his books to the peculiar geological formations and volcanic upheavals notice- 
 able in the strata in the immediate vicinity of the city. Quebec makes no boast 
 of modern achievements, and notwithstanding the beauty of design and cons- 
 truction, exemplified in the residences of some of her leading citizens, she 
 professes no architectural superiority. Her claims as a summer resort are, 
 however, unsurpassed upon the continent of America. If these claims are 
 brought more prominently to the notice of the tourist by means of this little 
 book, in so successful a manner as to induce him to remain here for a sufficient 
 length of time to investigate them for himself, the author knows that he may 
 count upon his sincere and lasting gratitude. 
 
 Look on the vision awakened in the poetic mind of the brilliant author of 
 " Roughing it in the bush," — Mrs. Moody (Suzanna Strickland): — 
 
 "Every perception of my mind became absorbed into the one sense of seeing, 
 when, upon rounding Point Levis, we cast anchor before Quebec. What a 
 scene ! Can the world produce another ? Edinburgh had been the " beau ideal " 
 to me of all that was beautiful in nature, a vision of the Northen Highlands had 
 haunted my dreams across the Atlantic; but all these past recollections fade 
 before the present of Quebec. Nature has ransacked all her grandest elemenu 
 to form this astonishing panorama. My spirit fell prostrate before the scene, 
 and I melted involuntarily into tears." 
 
 The late Henry Ward Beecher recorded his impressions of Quebec thus : — 
 " Queer old Quebec ! of all the cities on the continent of America, the 
 quaintest. Here was a small bit of mediaeval Europe perched upon a rock 
 
 
8 
 
 and dried for keeping, in this north-east corner of America, a curiosity that has 
 not its equal in its kind, on this side of the ocean. We rode about as if we 
 were in a picture-b :)ak, turning over a new leaf at each street." 
 
 W. D. Howells, the American novelist, thus records the emotions stirred 
 in him by the contemplation of Quebec : — 
 
 " Montcalm laying down his life to lose Quebec, is not less affecting than 
 Wolfe dying to earn her. The heart opens towards the soldier who recited on 
 the eve of his costly victory, ' the Elegy in a Country Churchyard,'— which he 
 * would rather have written than beat the French to-morrow,' but it aches for the 
 defeated general, who, hurt to death, answered, when told how brief his time 
 was ! ' So much the better; then I shall not live to see the surrender of Quebec ! ' 
 In the city for which they perished, their fame has never been divided." 
 
 ©rioin of tbe name '*iSiuebec/' 
 
 HE very origin of Quebec's name has been associated with legend by the 
 chroniclers of her romantic past. Some of the derivations ventured by 
 etymologists are as ingenious as they are fanciful. The word " Quebec " has 
 been compared with the " Kepek " of the original occupants of the site, said to 
 have been the expression of welcome used by them on the appearance at Stada- 
 cona of Jacques Cartier and his expeditionary force, in view of their hesitation to 
 meet them, and which the Frenchmen considered as equivalent to their own 
 Debarquez 1 Others again have traced the origin of the name to the exclamation 
 *' Quel bee "! (what 'a cape), attributed to a N jrman sailor at his first glance of 
 the rocky promontory. It is now all but universally conceded that the name is 
 of Indian origin. It is first found in the writing of Champlain, who says :— 
 " We came to anchor at Quebec, which is a strait of the river of Canada ; " and 
 Abhf? P'aillon commenting upon this statement adds, " this name, which in the 
 language of the Micmac Indians, signifies 'straits' or ' narrowing of a river,' 
 {rtUrc'cissemenf), and Champlain's manner of speaking, in calling Quebec, not 
 the town yet to be built, but the locality penned up from the river, shows how 
 utterly unfounded are the other interpretations imagined for the name of Quebec. 
 
 Charlevoix in his "Journal " addressed to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres, 
 writes : — 
 
 " Above the Island (of Orleans), the river narrows all at once to such an 
 extent, that in front of Quebec it is not more than a mile wide. It is this which 
 has given to this place the name of Quebeio or Quebec, which in the Algonquin 
 language signifies ' a narrowing.' The Abenaquis, whose language is a dialect 
 of the Algonquin, name it Quelibec, which signifies ' that which is closed,' because 
 from the mouth of the Chaudi^re, by which river these Indians come to Quebec 
 from the vicinity of Acadia, the Point of Levis, which laps over the Isle of 
 Orleans, entirely hides the South Channel. The Isle of Orleans hides the North 
 Channel, so that t'.ie port of Quebec appears (from Chaudi^re) to consist only o^ 
 
'W 
 
 ' that has 
 as if we 
 
 ns stirred 
 
 :ting than 
 recited on 
 which he 
 les for the 
 f his time 
 Quebec ! ' 
 i." 
 
 2nd by the 
 jntured by 
 ebec" has 
 lite, said to 
 :e at Stada- 
 esitation to 
 their own 
 xchimation 
 X glance of 
 le name is 
 lo says :— 
 lada ; " and 
 lich in the 
 of a river, ' 
 luebec, not 
 shows how 
 of Quebec, 
 esdiguieres, 
 
 to such an 
 
 this which 
 
 I Algonquin 
 
 is a dialect 
 
 ed,' because 
 
 ; to Quebec 
 
 the Isle of 
 
 es the North 
 
 msist only o^ 
 
 
 THE ST. LOUIS— THE LEADING HOTEL OF QUEBEC. 
 
HI 
 
 10 
 
 a large bay. According to Rev. J. M. Hellenger, an old missionary to whom 
 the Micmac language was perfectly familiar, " Quebec " comes from the word 
 " Kebeque," which he frequently heard applied by his Indian guides to "a 
 narrowing of the waters formed by two tongues or points of land protruding 
 into them." Lescarbot and the Abbe Malo, agree with Messrs. Charlevoix and 
 Beilenger, and Farkman 0) is of opinion that the origin of the name can no 
 longer be doubted. 
 
 ^be Cbatcau St. Xouie IbotcL * 
 
 Y far the largest, the most important and most comfortable hotel in Quebec 
 is the Chateau St. Louis, which is managed by the Chateau St. 
 Louis Hotel Company, of which Mr. W. E. Russell is the president. Mr. 
 Russell's father and predecessor in the business was the late well-known Mr, 
 Willis Russell, a native of New Hampshire, and who was for over 55 years a 
 resident of Quebec, and succeeded by his liberal management, in establishing 
 the reputation of the Chateau St. Louis as one of the leading hotels in Canada. 
 It is the hotel of Quebec, built upon historic ground, having upon one side 
 General Montcalm's old headquarters, and upon the other, the former town 
 residence of Queen Victoria's father, the late Duke of Kent, when commander 
 of the British forces in Canada. This latter structure is still known by the name 
 of " Kent House." Quebec's most wonderful attractions are grouped about the 
 Chateau St. Louis Hotel. Behind it is the Citadel and in front the Basilica, 
 the English Cathedral, the Ursuline Convent and the site of the old Jesuit 
 Barracks. Dufferin Terrace, with its famous view of the St. Lawrence and 
 surrounding country is only half a minute's walk from the Hotel. The Chateau 
 St. Louis has accommodation for 500 guests, and is the resort of all American 
 tourists. It has recently been completely transformed and modernized through- 
 out, being re-fitted with new system of drainage and ventilation, passenger 
 elevator, electric bells and lights, etc. In fact all that modern ingenuity and 
 practical science can devise to promote the comfort and convenience of guests 
 has been supplied. Eli Perkins is only one of many who has written that the 
 menu of the Chateau St. Louis is the finest in Canada. 
 
 Dufferin terrace. 
 
 NOT more than a stone's throw from the St. Louis Hotel is Dufferin 
 Terrace. It is an incomparable promenade and the pride of Quebec. 
 It is a planked platform jutting out along the very brink of the cliff, where the 
 southerly part of the Upper Town looks over and down towards the St. Law. 
 rence, 182 feet below. It is 1500 feet long. There is not such another in the 
 
 (1). "ThePioneersof France in the New World." Page 301. Edition uf 1888. 
 
.>^..^U*>'^^^ 
 
 liSf^-J^,i>M 
 
 y to whom 
 1 the word 
 ides to *' a 
 protruding 
 rlevoix and 
 me can no 
 
 1 in Quebec 
 I^hateau St. 
 dent. Mr. 
 known Mr. 
 
 55 years a 
 :stablishing 
 
 in Canada, 
 on one side 
 mtier town 
 commander 
 3y the name 
 1 about the 
 le Basilica, 
 old Jesuit 
 wrence and 
 
 le Chateau 
 American 
 
 ed through- 
 passenger 
 
 jenuity and 
 
 e of guests 
 
 en that the 
 
 is Dufferin 
 of Quebec, 
 where the 
 he St. Law. 
 ther in the 
 
 
 11 
 
 whole world. The original Terrace bore the name of Durham, after a former 
 popular Governor-General, and was only 25ofeet in length. It vas Lord Dufierin 
 who suggested the prolongation that was made in 1879, and whose name it has 
 since borne. The city paid the cost of the work, amounting to $13,000 and the 
 plans were designed by Chevalier Bailhiige, City Engineer. L^nfortunately it 
 has become necessary to condemn, as unsafe, and to close against the public, a 
 small portion of this magnificent promenade, at the end that lies ji.st under the 
 Citadel. This is inconsequence of the disastrous landslide that occurred from the 
 face of the rock immediately below the end of the Terrace on the fatal night of 
 the 19th of September 1889. The rocky debris may be seen behnv, that in its 
 fall crushed and buried seven or eight houses to a depth of twenty to thirty 
 feet, hurling between fifty andsixty souls into eternity without amoment's warning. 
 
 What a matchless landscape bursts upon the delighted beholder from this 
 magnificent Terrace I Forest, field and flood, the pale, soft blue of distant hills 
 and the overhanging rock of the frowning granite Cape, sweetly undulating 
 meadow slopes and the wild gran deur of yon rugged steepy cliffs, fertile fields 
 bespangled with the neatly white-washed houses of comfortable Canadian farmers, 
 and the broad bosom of the majestic St. Lawrence, heaving beneath the burden 
 of gigantic greyhounds of the Atlantic, saucy little tugs, thrifty market steamers 
 and white- winged ships of the Canadian timber fleet. 
 
 Nature has here indeed been most lavish in the distribution of her favors^ 
 and this Terrace and the Citadel above are the spots whereon to stand, to view 
 to the very best advantage, one of the most brilliant combinations in the whole 
 round of her kaleidoscopic wonders. Let us stand awhile and feast the eye 
 upon the unrivalled scene. Then we may climb the grassy slope of the (ilacis 
 which slopes down from the edge of the moat that separates it from the King's 
 Bastion. We may reach the same coign o'vantage by ascending the flight of 
 steps at the extremity of the Terrace. From no other standpoint in the old city, 
 may the tourist better view the remarkable panorama of scenic beauty stretching 
 away out from the Gibraltar of America, than from this King's Bastion, in the 
 Citadel of Quebec, whence rises the flagstaff that floats the emblem of Britain's 
 sovereignty in this old French Province. 
 
 We are alongside of it now, with only a deep ditch between. The bold 
 heights of Levis on the other side of the stream, the broad expanse of water 
 looking towards the sea, with the picturesque Isle of Orleans stretching down 
 from opposite the falls of Montmorenci to below the saintly shrine of the miracle- 
 working St. Anne, form a picture whose beauty is but seld' equalled and 
 around which clusters such a stock of legendary lore and his .. emories that 
 
 the very air seems haunted by the spirits of dead saints and heroes. Nor is the 
 setting unworthy of the picture. Those are the Laurentian mountains that 
 form the deep blue background stretching away in the distance towards the 
 north for nearly two hundred miles, and full of the interest excited by all far 
 northern latitudes. Till within the last few years the interior of this mountain 
 
 f.WVfWfffVVriSI-rJKM'i-iV 
 
12 
 
 region had been practically an unknown land. Many of the secrets of these 
 Laurentian m,)untains still re.nain locked within their own bosoms. Recent, 
 surveys have brought to light many interesting facts concerning them hitherto 
 veiled in obscurity, but they cover thousands of square miles of country which 
 the foot of the white man has scarcely yet trodden. 
 
 We cannot cross the m:)at into the citadel here, so will again descend to the 
 Terrace. O.i fine summer evenings, this promenade is the resort of thousands of 
 citizens, always including a !arge representation of the youth and beauty of 
 Quebec. Two or three times a week there is music on the Terrace, and on 
 band nights it is thronged with fashion and gaiety. That is 
 
 Zbc (Bovcruor'0 (Barren,— 
 
 V^, HERE on your left, a pretty little shady retreat, of which the principal 
 attraction is the twin-faced monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, erected in 
 1827 and 1828 in joint honor of the illustrious contending generals, who 
 gained a common fame and met a common death. It was Lord Dalhousie, then 
 Governor-General of Canada, who originated the sentimental and pretty idea of 
 this dual monument, erected by the descendants of those who had met in 
 mortal combat nearly seventy years before. The corner stone was laid with 
 masonic grand honors on the 15th of November 1827, by R. W. Provincial 
 Grandmaster Claude Denechaud, a French-Canadian P>eemas<>n. 
 
 This monument is strictly classical in the proportions of every part. To 
 the top of the surbase is sixteen feet from the ground. On this rests the sarcoph- 
 agus, seven feet eight inches high. The obelisk measures ft)rty-two feet eis^ht 
 inches, and the apex two feet one inch, making altogether sixty-five feet fr jin 
 the ground. The dimensions of the obelisk at the base are six feet by four feet 
 eight inches, tapering conically to the apex, when the sides are diminished to 
 three feet two inches, by two feet five inches. 
 
 The following inscription, composed by Dr. Fisher, is carved on the front 
 of the sarcophagus : 
 
 MORTEM, VIRTUS, COMMUNEM, FAMAM, HISTORIA, 
 MONUMENTUM, POSTERITAS DEDIT. 
 
 Which may be translated as follows : — 
 
 " Valor gave them a common death, hi-tory a common fatn**, and posterity 
 a common monument." 
 
 On the rear is the following, altered from that which was inscribed upon 
 the plate deposited with the foundation stone. 
 
W 
 W 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 w 
 
14 
 
 HUJUSCE 
 
 MONUMENTI IN VIRORUM ILLUSTRIUM MEMORIAL 
 
 WOLFE el MONTCALM, 
 
 FUNUAMENTUM, P.C. 
 
 GEORGIUS COMES DE DALHOUSIE IN SEPTENTIUONALIS AMERIOE 
 PARTI BUS 
 
 AD BRITANNOS PERTINENTEBUS SUMMAM RERUM ADMINISTRANS : 
 
 OPUS PER MULTOS ANNOS PR^TERMISSUM QUID DUCI EOREtHO 
 CONVENIENTIUS ? 
 
 AUCTORITATE PROMOVENS EXEMPLO STIMULANS MUNIFICENTIA 
 FOVENS. 
 
 A. D. M D C C C XXVII 
 
 GEORGIO IV BRITANNIARUM REGE. 
 
 Every foot of the land over which the Terrace is constructed, is historic 
 ground. Deeds of military prowess and daring seem still to hover in the air, 
 behmd and below you on every side. 
 
 On the narrow ledge of land immediately below, and lying between the 
 river and the base of the perpendicular rock, is built a portion of the Lower 
 Town. The rock is so perpendicular and the strip of land at its foot so narrow 
 that you must advance to the very front of the Terrace to get a good view of 
 the antique Lower Town. Narrow as is the ledge upon which it is built, it was 
 at one time much narrower still, for a good portion of it has been reclaimed from 
 the river. 
 
 Zbc ifall of flDontoomer^. 
 
 FOLLOW with the eye the single narrow street that skirts around the foot 
 of Cape Diamond, hemmed in by the river until it is compelled to hug 
 the cliff for safety. That is Champlain Street, and in that narrow pass, imme- 
 diately below the Citadel, the brave Montgomery fell mortally wounded in the 
 snow, at the head of his men, in his rash and daring attack upon Quebec on the 
 night of the 31st of December 1775. He had hoped to surprise the battery 
 that guarded the narrow pass, under cover of the night and of a heavy snow 
 storm. His advance was Seen, however, by the Sergeant in charge of the 
 battery, who reserved his fire until the brave American and his little band were 
 close to the muzzles of the guns. At the critical moment the word of command 
 was given, and the cannon and musketry belched out an unexpected fire. 
 
 ■MMII 
 
15 
 
 the foot 
 d to hug 
 
 imme- 
 d in the 
 c on the 
 battery 
 vy snow 
 
 of the 
 nd were 
 MTitnand 
 
 Montgomery was one of the first to fall, and all who failed to beat a precip- 
 itate retreat fell with him, literally mowed down by the irresistible grape that 
 swept the narrow gorge. His frozen body was found next morning in the snow, 
 and later we shall visit the scene of the house, lately demolished, in which it was 
 ^aid out, and the site of the grave in which for forty-three years it lay buried. 
 
 Cburcb of IHotrc Same bee IDictoirea. 
 
 LMOST directly below the north end of the Terrace where the cliff 
 recedes further from the river, and the streets and houses grow 
 thicker together, is the little church of Notre Dame des Victoires. The building 
 was until lately as plain within as it is without. In commemoration of the defeat 
 of the English invaders under Sir William Phipps in 1690, the fete of Notre 
 Dame de la Victoire was established, to be annually celebrated in this church 
 on the 7th of October ; and after the shipwreck of the second English fleet of 
 invasion in 171 1, which the French colonists regarded as little, if anything less 
 than a miraculous interposition in their favor, the church received the name of 
 Notre Dame des Victoires. During Wolfe's siege of Quebec in 1759, its roof 
 and upper portion were destroyed by the fire of the Levis batteries. It was 
 subsequently rebuilt upon the old walls, and during the year 1888 its interior 
 was neatly frescoed. 
 
 Cbamplain'e ®l& ifort. 
 
 1 
 
 HERE are any number of other historic recollections clustering around and 
 below the Terrace. The large building immediately below old Durham 
 Terrace, and a little to the south of the Church of Notre Dame des Victoires, 
 is the Champlain Market Hall. On market days there may be seen in the 
 neighboring square, the picturesque spectacle of a number of habitant \Vomen — 
 the wives of F^-ench-Canadian farmers, sitting selling the produce of their 
 gardens and dairies, which is piled in the boxes and bags by which they are 
 surrounded. The several small steamers lying five and six abreast in two or 
 three tiers at the market wharf, are the market boats which brouv^ht the habitant 
 women and their butter, eggs, onions and homespun cloth from their riverside 
 homes and farms. Very near the present site of the market building there 
 below, Champlain, the zealous crusader, the bold explorer, the founder of Quebec, 
 erected his first bu.lding in 1608. It included a habitation, a fort and stores. 
 Gradually the land surrounding it was cleared of trees and turned into a garden. 
 One morning, while directing his laborers, Champlain was called inside by 
 one of his men who revealed to him a conspiracy amongst some of his followers 
 to murder their commander and deliver Quebec into the hands of some Basques 
 and Spaniards lately arrived from Tadousac. One Duval, a locksmith, was the 
 author of the plot, and so prompt was the action of the founder of the little 
 
16 
 
 colony, that the conspirators were arrested the self-same night, and soon Duval's 
 body was swinging from a gibbet, and his head, says Parkman, "displayed on a 
 pike, from the highest roof of the buildings, food for birds and a lesson to 
 sedition." 
 
 The next land that was cleared at Quebec after that of which Champlain 
 had made a garden around his habitation, was in rear of where we are just now 
 standing looking down at the Lower Town. Let us turn around and walk a 
 few feet towards the site. It is now covered by 
 
 Zbc place b*armc6,— 
 
 the little Ring of green and trees, and gently playing fountain and by the English 
 Cathedral. On a portion of the land so cleared, Champlain erected ths 
 
 Chateau St. Xoute,— 
 
 destined to be so famous in Canadian history. Its cellar still remains under 
 the wooden platform of the present Durham Terrace. 
 
 We have just walked over it. Behind the Chateau was the area of the 
 fort, now the Place d'Armes or Ring. Let us pause a little here, foi we stand 
 upon the site of the old fortress of Quebec, which was for over two centuries the 
 seat of the Canadian Government, and during the various periods of its 
 existence, the scene of some of the most stirring events in the History of New 
 France. 
 
 Often, in its earlier days, were its terror-stricken inmates appalled at the 
 daring adventures of the ferocious Iroquois, who having passed or overthrown all 
 the P'rench outposts, more than once threatened the Fort itself, and massacred 
 friendly Indians within sight of its walls. At a later era, when the colony had 
 acquired some military strength, the Castle of St. Louis was remarkable as 
 having been the site whence the French Governor exercised an immense sover- 
 eignty, extending from the mouth of the Mississippi river to the great Canadian 
 lakes, and thence along their shores and those of the St. Lawrence to the Gulf 
 , of the same name. 
 
 Those interested in further details of the old fort, will find it fully described 
 in the entertaining pages of Parkman. d) 
 
 In 1690 the large hall of the Castle witnessed an exciting scene. An 
 English fleet under Sir William Phipps had sailed up the river against Quebec. 
 The Admiral sent a messenger ashore under a flag of truce to demand the 
 surrender of the garrison. He was conducted, blindfolded, to the Castle, and 
 when the bandage was removed from his eyes, he found himself in the presence 
 of the Governor, the haughty Count de Frontenac, and his brilliantly uniformed 
 officers. He presented Phipps' written summons to surrender and demanded an 
 
 (1). Old " Regime in Canada " Page 419. 
 

 IN THE CITADEL. 
 
"•«i 
 
 18 
 
 a 
 
 answer within an hour. Frontenac did not avail himself of the proffered delay. 
 He promptly told the messenger to return to his master and inform him that 
 he recognized no King of England but James, and that William of Orange was 
 a usurper. Then, being asked if he would give his answer in writing, " No, " 
 replied P'rontenac, " I will answer your General only by the mouth of my cannon." 
 And he kept his word. Hhipps made an ineffectual attempt to bombard the city, 
 but the guns from the fort poured shot into his vessels with a deadly aim, 
 carried away his ensign, disabled some of his ships and compelled him to beat 
 so precipitate a retreat that his own vessel cut its cable and left its anchor behind 
 
 it. (I) 
 
 After the British victory of 1759 and the consequent cession of Canada by 
 the French in 1760, the English Governors resided in the Chateau St. Louis, 
 and subsequently to 1791, it was occupied also by the Executive Council. In 
 1808, the Castle was considerably enlarged and repaired, and then measured 
 200 feet long by 40 broad. It was destroyed by fire in 1834, and Lord Durham 
 caused the ruins to be removed, and built the first Terrace which was called 
 after him. 
 
 The so-called Chateau now standing on the edge of the Terrace to our left 
 as we leave the promenade, was erected in 1784, by Sir Frederick Haldimand, 
 Governor-General, as a wing of the old castle. It is now occupied by the Laval 
 Normal School. 
 
 Let us walk round the northerly end of this building and the side which 
 faces away from the river. He; e in the wall alongside the gate facing St. Louis 
 street, is the old stone bearing a Maltese Cross and the date 1647. This stone 
 was discovered in 1784, by the workmen engaged in levelling the yard in which 
 Haldimand's Chateau was in course of erection. Mr. J. Edmond Roy who 
 has admirably summed up much that has been writen on the subject, is of the 
 opinion that in olden times, the original Order of Knights of Malta intended to 
 establish a priory in Quebec, and that Governor Montmagny himself a Knight of 
 Malta, laid the foundations of a house for the use of such priory in 1647, and 
 had this stone prepared to insert in the walls.(2) 
 
 The late Mr. Willis Russell of the Chateau St. Louis Hotel, was the 
 promoter of a scheme for erecting on the site of the old Chateau, a modern 
 palace hotel. The site is certainly one of the grandest that could possibly be 
 magined for a hostelry intended for the accommodation of tourists. 
 
 In the early part of the century, there was a Riding School near the present 
 Chateau, which was subsequently transformed into a theatre. It was destroyed 
 by fire in June 1846, during a panoramic performance, and from forty-five to 
 fifty people perished in the flames. 
 
 (I) An interesting account of Frontenac's parley with the messenger from Phipps, and the 
 unsuccessful Siege of Quebec, in 1690, is to be found in Parkman's " Frontenac and New 
 France," Page 264. 
 
 (2). L'Ordre de Malte en Am6rique, by J. Edmond Roy, 1888. 
 
19 
 
 Zbc finoUeb (Eatbe^raL 
 
 ON the site now occupied by the Enj^lish Cathedral, adjoining the Place 
 d'Armes or Ring, which alone separates it from Uufferin Terrace 
 and the site of the old Chateau, formerly stood the ancient church and convent 
 of the RecoUets Fathers, which was destroyed by fire in 1796. Before the 
 erection of a protestant church in Quebec, protestant services were permitted at 
 times bv the Recollets Fathers, in their old church. 
 
 The British Government took possession of the grounds after the suppres- 
 sion of the Recollets Order, and at the suggestion of Bishop Mountain, the first 
 Anglican Bishop of Quebec, whose see extended to the frozen ocean on the 
 north and to the Pacific on the west, it erected the present Cathedral, which 
 was consecrated in 1804. It is a plain though fsubstantial structure in the 
 Roman style of architecture, measuring 135 by 73 feet. It should be visited 
 by tourists, not for its architectural beauty, but for the splendor of its mural monu- 
 ments, chancel window and elaborate solid silvercommunion service. This Litter 
 which is of exquisite workmanship, and cost ^2,000 sterling, attracted numbers 
 of visitors while on exhibition in London, where it was made by Rundell & 
 Bridge. Together with the altar cloth and hangings of the desk and pulpit, 
 which are of crimson velvet and cloth of gold, and the books for divine service, 
 this communion plate was a present from King George III. There is in the 
 tower a very sweet peal of eight bells, of which the tenor bell is about 16 cwt. 
 The chuich has an exellent organ and a dean and chapter, but neither 
 surpliced choir nor ordinary cathedral choral services. The Dean, Rev. Dr. 
 Norman, is also Rector of Quebec and resides in the Rectory situated in the 
 Cathedral grounds. In the chancel is a large marble monument in meiTM)ry of 
 the Right Rev. Jacob Mountain, first Bishop ot Quebec, surmounted by the 
 bust of the first occupant of the see, who procured the erection of the building. 
 The chancel window is a memorial of the third Bishop of the diocese, the late 
 Dr. Jehoshaphat Mountain. In both design and coloring, it is considered one 
 of the richest pieces of stained glass on the continent. The central portion 
 represents the Ascension : the Baptism and Transfiguration being represented 
 in the side windows. On the other side of the chancel from Bishop Jacob 
 Mountain's monument, is that to his successor, Bishop Stewart. Another 
 marble slab commemorates the death of the Duke of Richmond and Lennox, 
 while Governor-General of Canada, which was caused by hydrophobia, arising 
 from the bite of a pet fox in 18 19, and whose body reposes in a vault beneath 
 the church building. Other mural monuments are in memory of Hon. Carleton 
 Thomas Monckton, fifth son of the fourth Viscount (ialway, and great nephew 
 of the Hon. Brigadier General Monkton, who succeeded to the command of 
 the British Army upon the death of Cieneral Wolfe : of the late Lieut.-Genera! 
 Peter Hunter, Lieut.-Governor of Upper Canada and Commander-in-chief of 
 the forces: of Lieut. Baynes of the Royal Artillery, who lost his life in the great 
 
2U 
 
 fire of 1866, which destroyed a large portion of St. Roch's suburbs, and of 
 Major Short, whose body was blown into fragments by a premature explosion 
 of gunpowder while he was gallantly fighting a conflagration in the suburbs of 
 St. Sauveur. Overhanging the chancel are the remnants of two old and tattered 
 flags. These are the old colors of the 69'h British regiment of foot, deposited 
 here in 1870, by Lieut. Col. Hagot, on the occasion of new colors being presented 
 the regiment on the Esplanade here, by H. R. H. Prince Arthur. These war- 
 like standards were deposited in the Cathedral with elaborate ceremonial 
 attended by a striking military pageant. This is believed to be the only Cathe- 
 dral on the n^n^'nent containing British colors. The (fOvernor-Cieneral's pew 
 is seen surrojnded by curtains, in the north gallery, and here have worshipped 
 at various times, a number of members of the Royal P'amily of England. The 
 pulpit has been occupied by numbers of leading divines, including the late 
 Dean Stanley, Archdeacon Farrar, and several American Bishops. Both 
 the Missionary Bishop of North Dakota, and the learned historian of the 
 American Episcopal Church, Right Rev. William Stevens Perry, D.D., Bishop 
 of Iowa, preached here several times in the summer of 1890, a good portion of 
 which they spent in Quebec. In addition to the magnificent linden trees orna- 
 menting the Cathedral enclosure, there was a venerable elm upon the grounds 
 prior to September 1841;. in which month it was blown down, and beneath 
 whose umbrageous branches, legend has it that Jacques Cartier assembled his 
 followers upon their first arrival in Canada. 
 
 Zbc Court 1bou6c anb ITlnion ffiuilMuo, 
 
 OTHER noticeable buildings upon the Place d'Armes, are the new 
 Court House, immediately south of the Cathedral, one of the hand- 
 somest and most substantial of Quebec's modern edifices, and the old Union 
 Building in the north-east corner of the square, now owned and occupied by 
 Mr. D. Morgan, tailor and outfitter, but in 1808, and for some time afterwards, 
 the rendez-vous of the famous Club of Barons. This Place d'Armes Square, 
 which in the time of the French was called the ( irande Place, was the scene of 
 frequent mi' iary parades and a fashionable promenade. In 1650, the Huron 
 Indians who had been driven from lake Simcoe, encamped here. 
 
 Zbc Ip06t ©ffice an& Cbicn t)'®n 
 
 V^, AKING leave for a while of the Place d'Armes and its wealth of historical 
 associations and surroundings, let us turn the corner of the Union Buil- 
 ding, to the north, for the brief space of a short block of buildings, until 
 
 we come to Buade street, so called after Louis de Buade, Count of Frontenac. 
 
 From each quarter of the compass at these cross streets, history and romance, 
 
 the attractions of nature as well as those of art, acts of heroism and deeds of 
 
 
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 THE WOLFE AND MONTCALM MONUMENT in Governor's Garden. 
 
22 
 
 blood, relics of the past anO rare historic treasures, the foot-prints of warriors, 
 and the former surroundings of the early Jesuit missionary-martyrs, stand 
 beckoning us onward. Which way shall we take? We have left behind us 
 Dufferin Terrace and the Place d'Armes: in front is the palace of the Cardinal, and 
 further on the Grand Battery and Laval University. On our left are the site of 
 the old Jesuit Barracks, the Basilica of Quebec and some of the oldest residences 
 in Canada. On the right, and close to us, is the Post Office Building, in the 
 northern facade of which is the figure of a rather tame-looking stone dog, 
 gnawing a bone. And thereby hangs a tale. Not to the dog alone, but to its 
 entire surroundings. This is how it happened. And it came to pass under 
 the French regime, that the proprietor of the old house that formerly stood 
 upon the site of the Post Office, was named Nicholas Jacquin Philibert. Now 
 Philibert had some disagreement, some say with Pierre Legardeur, Sieur de 
 Repentigny, an officer who had been quartered in his house; — according to 
 other writers, with Bigot, the Intendant or Lord- Lieutenant himself To 
 revenge himself he placed this tablet in the front of his house, with the accom- 
 panying lines: 
 
 Je suis un chien qui ronge I'os, 
 En le rongeiint je prcnds mon repos, 
 Un temps viendra qui n'est pm venu, 
 Que je mordrny qui ra'aura mordu. 
 
 which may l)e translated as follows: 
 
 I am a dog gnawing a bone, 
 While I gnaw I take my repose, 
 The time will come, though not yet, 
 When I will bite him who new bites me. 
 
 Wilder versions state that Philibert was assassinated by Legardeur, and 
 that Phil.ben's brother or son, pursued the assassin to Europe, and later to 
 Pondicherry, East Indies, and slew him. Le Moine has an interesting chapter 
 ox\ Le Chicn d Or 0) which took its name from the facts that the sculptured 
 figure of the dog seems always to ha\e been, as now, in gilt. 
 
 F. Kirby of Niagara, has woven around the warp of this tragic story, a 
 marvellous romance of the time of Bigot, and introduced into it many of the 
 leading characters that figured in Quebec, nearly a century and a half ago.(2) 
 
 H. R. H. Princess Louise, when in Canada, assured Mr. Kirby of the 
 pleasure with which Queen Victoria had read his interesting historical novel. 
 Before, and for a long time after the siege of 1759, when Quebec fell into the 
 hands of the British, the old building was used as a coffee house, while from 
 
 (I). See " The history of an Old House," in LcMoine's^Miple Leaves, IQuebec, 1873, page 89. 
 (2). The " Golden Dog." by F.-Kirby. 
 
warriors, 
 yrs, stand 
 )ehind us 
 Jinal, and 
 he site of 
 esidences 
 ig, in the 
 itone dog, 
 
 but to its 
 iss under 
 ;rly stood 
 ;rt. Now 
 , Sieur de 
 ording to 
 iself. To 
 lie accom- 
 
 •deur, and 
 id later to 
 ng chapter 
 sculptured 
 
 tfic story, a 
 any of the 
 .If ago.(2) 
 
 irby of the 
 rical novel, 
 til into the 
 while from 
 
 1873, page 89. 
 
 23 
 
 1775 to 1800, it was known as Freemasons' Hall, and the lodges Quebec in 
 held their meetings there. The proprietor of the house in 1782, was Miles 
 Prentice, himself a Freemason and formerly a sergeant in the 78th regiment 
 tinder Wolfe. He had either a daughter or a niece of remarkable beauty and 
 in the bloom of youth. 
 
 The immortal Nelson, then the youthful commander of the " Albermarle," a 
 frigate of 26 guns, conveyed some merchantsmen to Quebec in 1782, and was 
 one of the habitues of Prentice's Hotel. 
 
 The future admirer of Lady Hamilton was so smitten with the young lady 
 that he offered her marriage. His fiiends, however, succeeded in withdrawing 
 him from the sway of a passion which threatened to destroy his career, and 
 Miss Prentice became, later, the wife of a distinguished ofificer, Major Mathews, 
 Governor of Chelsea Hospital, England. In the pages ot " L' Album du 
 Touriste," (D is a reference to a sound cowhiding, which the Duke of Clarence, 
 afterwards William IV, received in this neighborhood, at the hand of an 
 irritated father, whose daughter, the Duke was in the act of following too closely. 
 
 But turn to the east. What a unique termination I It ends in a staircase ! 
 And yet it is not so unique at all, in Quebec. Three or four other streets do the 
 same. We shall scarcely have time to descend the stairs just now into 
 Mountain Hill, so will satisfy ourselves with the view to be had from their 
 summit. 
 
 Feast the eye for a few minutes upon the magnificent scene of river and 
 island, and shipping and opposite shore that forms the picture here spread out 
 before us ! And yet it is one of a hundred equally beautiful \-iews to be had 
 from various points of the heights of Quebec. That vacant space on the oppo- 
 site side of the street, surrounded by iron railings is 
 
 Zbc 0ttc of the ®lb parliament Ibouae. 
 
 7 
 
 HE building which was here destroyed by fire in April 1883, served as 
 the studio of the artists of Confederation. Within its walls was moulded 
 the f(<im of that constitution which united in one Dominion, the scattered North 
 American colonies comprised between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, while 
 securing to the people of each, their own Provincial autonomy and self-govern- 
 ment in local affairs. This parliament house was constructed in 1859 and i860, 
 at a cost of over $60,000, to replace the former one, also destroyed by fire. On a 
 portion of this site was the first cemetery used by the early French settlers, and 
 in a corner of this cemetery is supposed to have been the tomb of Samuel de 
 Champlain, founder of Quebec. 
 
 Such, at all events, is the very reasonable conclusion to which Dr. Harper, 
 has arrived, after a minute investigation of the theories and writings on the 
 
 (I). 
 
 L'Album du Touriste," by J. M. LeMoine, Quebec, 1872, Page 45. 
 
24 
 
 subject, of Abbes Laverdi^re and Casgrain, of Messrs. Cauchon, Urapeau and 
 Dionne. The citizens of Quebec, under the presidency of Judge Chauveau, are 
 about to erect a monument of Champlain at a cost of $30,000, upon the site of 
 the old Chateau St. Louis, between Dufferin Terrace and Place d'Armes. 
 
 M 
 
 Ibe CarMuare palace. 
 
 E may now retrace our steps to the cross roads, where we stood a few 
 minutes ago, and continuing along Fort street, by which we left the 
 Place d'Armes at the Union Building, and which was so called because it led 
 from the Lower Town landing to the Fort, we reach in about a hundred feet, 
 the entrance gates of the palace of the first Canadian Cardinal, — His Eminence 
 Cardinal Taschereau, a large and handsonie stone building. Quebecers will 
 not soon forget the elaborate fetes and ceremonial which marked in 1886, the 
 conferring of the baretta upon His Eminence. 
 
 The throne room of the palace is a very handsome apartment, all its 
 furniture and hangings being of cardinal red. Protestants as well as Roman 
 Catholics pay their respects to Cardinal Taschereau when he holds his receptions 
 here, for in addition to the personal popularity of the Canadian Prince of the 
 Church, his elevation to the cardinalate is considered by all Quebecers as a 
 signal honor conferred by Rome upon Canada. Continuing on our way past 
 the palace gates, we quickly arrive at 
 
 Zbc (Branb Batter^?. 
 
 HERE on the very edge of the cliff overlooking the river, are mounted a 
 long row of heavy guns. They are now of obsolete pattern however, 
 and would be of little service in action. The road is narrow and winding, and 
 from it may be had a splendid view of the river and surrounding country. At 
 intervals, too, platforms provided with seats have been erected. The grounds 
 of Laval University are separated from the Battery by a high stone wall. The 
 tourist will find much to interest him and delight the eye, by sitting and 
 resting awhile upon one of the Grand Battery benches, if he has the necessary 
 time at his disposal, before returning to the Chateau St. Louis for luncheon. 
 He will be glad of the rest too, if he has taken us for a guide all morning, and 
 must have spent a rather busy half day, in seeing and examining what we have 
 pointed out to him since he left his hotel after breakfast, en route for Dufferin 
 Termce. Breakfast is a good meal at the St. Louis, and the tourist is wise not 
 to take it before he reaches the hotel. Notwithstanding this, there is a some- 
 thing in the air here, call it ozone, if you will, that no matter how late you take 
 your breakfast, will secure you a good appetite for lunch by one o'clock. If 
 you have followed the directions herein so far contained, you may not have 
 
25 
 
 peau and 
 veau, are 
 he site of 
 les. 
 
 ood a few 
 ve left the 
 luse it led 
 dred feet, 
 Eminence 
 ecers will 
 1886, the 
 
 nt, all its 
 IS Roman 
 receptions 
 ice of the 
 ecers as a 
 - way past 
 
 mounted a 
 
 1 however, 
 iding, and 
 luntry. At 
 he grounds 
 wall. The 
 sitting and 
 
 2 necessary 
 r luncheon. 
 )rning, and 
 lat we have 
 "or Dufiferin 
 
 is wise not 
 : is a some- 
 Lte you take 
 o'clock. If 
 ly not have 
 
 walked a mile in all, yet you have made good use of your time, and have the 
 satisfaction of knowing that you have gained a wealth of historic and legendary 
 lore, that noin tellectual traveller of the present day can afford to be without. 
 The afternoon of the first day in Quebec, cannot be better spent anywhere, 
 than in either the Basilica or Laval University, both of which are within five 
 minutes walk of the Chateau St. Louis. 
 
 ^be Basilica. 
 
 c 
 
 , HE construction of the old Cathedral of Quebec was commenced in 1647, 
 
 I and it was consecrated in 1666, by Monseigneur Laval, the first bishop 
 
 of the colony. As early however, as 1645, the French Governor De 
 
 Montmagny, and the inhabitants of the city, had appropriated the proceeds 
 
 of twelve hundred and fifty beaver skins to the building of the church. 
 
 The design of the chancel is in imitation of that of St. Peter's at Rome. 
 This church superseded the chapel of the Jesuits' College, which was for snme 
 time used as the parochial church of Quebec. 1 1 was not till 1 874, that the sacred, 
 edifice was raised to the dignity of a Basilica. It has suffered much from fires 
 occasioned by the storming of the city during the several sieges through which 
 it has passed, but the foundations and parts of the walls are still the same, 
 having now existed for nearly two and a half centuries. In the yard at the 
 back of the presbytery adjoining the chancel, and immediately in rear of the 
 Basilica, are still to be found the relics of the foundation walls of the chapel, 
 built by Cham plain in 1633, in commemoration of the recovery of the country 
 the year before from the English, into whose hands it had fallen in 1629. This 
 chapel was called by Champlain the " Chapelle de la Recouvrance," and was for 
 the time being, the parish church of Quebec. It was destroyed by fire in 1640. 
 The founder of Quebec had erected a still earlier chapel in the Lower Town, 
 in 161 5, near where is now the foot of the Dufferin Terrace elevator, but it was 
 destroyed, together with Champlain's other buildings in the Lower Town, in the 
 siege of 1629. 
 
 The Basilica is 216 feet in length by 108 in breadth, and is capable of 
 accommodating 4,000 worshippers. It cannot boast of much external symmetry, 
 and is distinguished rather for solidity and neatness, than for splendor or regu- 
 larity of architecture. Within it is very lofty, with massive arches of stone 
 dividing the naves from the aisles. Thco is, however, much more than its 
 antique and internal beauty, to attract the attention of tourists. It contains 
 some of the most remarkable and valuable objects of art on the continent. 
 Upon its walls hangs a rich collection of paintings, most of them by noted 
 European masters and invaluable as works of art. These were mostly secured 
 by Canadian priests in France, after the Reign of Terror in 1793, in which the 
 ordinances ot religion were prohibited and the property of churches and mon- 
 asteries, in Paris, confiscated and scattered. One, however, has a most 
 
26 
 
 remarkable history of its own. This is the magnificent canvas that hangs 
 over the high altar and has for its subject the Immaculate Conception, it is 
 supposed to be after Lebrun, if not the actual handiwork of the great Master, 
 
 More than a hundred years ago, it came into the possession of a family 
 named Lemaistre, residing on the island of Guernsey : in what manner is now 
 unknown, though it is supposed to have been captured from some Fiench 
 vessel, during a naval skirmish. At all events, it was considered of no great 
 value, tor it remained for a period rolled up in an attic room, which was used 
 as a receptacle for old furniture, costumes of former days and other curiosities. 
 Captain Lemaistre, the son of the proprietor, was, m 1770, in Quebec. Here he 
 was Deputy Adjutant-General of the forces and secretary of the Lieutenant- 
 Governor. When Lieutenant-Governor Cremahe was recalled to England, and 
 succeeded by Lieutenant-Governor Hamilton, Lemaistre remained in Canada 
 with the new Governor. His heart had crossed the sea however, in the ship 
 that took his old master home, having followed the pretty niece of Mr. Cremahe, 
 Margaret Stuart, with whom he was desperately in love. Margaret was educated 
 at the Ursuline Convent, and while there abjured protestantism and was baptized 
 in the convent chapel. Young Lemaistre had an intimate friend in a young 
 t2cclesiastic, then secretary to the Roman Catholic Bishop, Mgr. Briand, and 
 to him he confided his secret. Mr. Plessis had heard the story of Margaret 
 Stuart and the convent, and when the gallent young captain explained why he 
 was so anxious to obtain leave of absence to visit England, his friend replied, 
 *' But Captain Lemaistre, I cannot wish you success in this matter unless you 
 become a Catholic ? and Lemaistre who was naturally enough ready to prom- 
 ise anything just then, said that he would think about it. And so it happened, 
 for Mgr. Briand was very friendly with (ienerai Haldimand, that Lemaistre 
 obtained leave of absence, and upon reaching England, was married to Miss 
 Stuart. The honeymoon was spent in Guernsey, and one day, when ransacking 
 the contents of the attic chamber, the bride came upon the religious picture. 
 A wave of loving memory of far away Quebec swept over the yoMng girl's heart, 
 and she begged to be allowed to keep the canvas. It was 1793 when the 
 Lemaistres returned to Quebec, and the picture was rolled up and taken with 
 them. The Captain was now the Governor of Gaspe, but the office was a 
 sinecure, and he took a house in Ste. Famille street, in this city. In the mean- 
 time, the young secretary of Mgr. Briand, and future Bishop of Quebec, had 
 been raised to the dignity of the priesthood, and in the spring of 1792, had 
 been appointed Cure of Quebec. Monsieur le Cure was naturally one of the 
 first callers upon Captain and Mrs, Lemaistre, and the latter, producing the roll 
 of canvas, asked his acceptance of the picture. " I will accept it gratefully," 
 said the priest, " but not for myself, for another." It was framed and sent to 
 him, and some days later he asked Captain and Mrs. Lemaistre, to pass with 
 him into the sanctuary of the Cathedral, and there, behind the high altar, he 
 showed them fheir picture, saying, with one of his bright smiles, " It is better 
 to give to Ciod than to man." 
 
hangs 
 it is 
 aster. 
 
 family 
 • is now 
 
 Fiench 
 to great 
 I'as used 
 riosities. 
 Here he 
 utenant- 
 ind, and 
 
 Candda 
 the ship 
 >einahe, 
 gducated 
 baptized 
 
 a young 
 and, and 
 Margaret 
 d why he 
 1 repHed, 
 nless you 
 ' to prom- 
 lappened, 
 Lemaistre 
 :d to Miss 
 ansacking 
 us picture, 
 irl's heart, 
 
 when the 
 
 taken with 
 
 Eice was a 
 
 the mean- 
 
 uebec, had 
 
 1792, had 
 one of the 
 ng the roll 
 s^ratefully," 
 md sent to 
 pass with 
 jh altar, he 
 It is better 
 
 t l«l'FI"l"l >■! ""I !_' iMii ■■ y ii iiiiiii 
 
 Ti 1 -■— r-r-'--V T -I :r ^ n^ , — ■ t v ' 1 — 1 _l 
 
 =V ^ 1i 1 ' ^ I ^^ ^ 1 i i — mm 
 
 HAVING A SPIN IN A CALECHE. 
 
28 
 
 Amongst the other paintings in the Basilica there is a Christ, but very 
 different from the pictures of the Saviour with which the. pubhc ;nay be famihar. 
 This is the famous Van Dyck, and shews the Son of (iod on the Cross. It was 
 painted in 1630, and presents a type of the best Flemish school. The collection 
 in this church belongs to the lot of paintings which Abbe Desjardins secured 
 for a song, from the revolutionists of 1793, when the mob pillaged the churches 
 and monasteries in their madness. Imagine Van Dycks, Fleurets, Blanchards? 
 Leljruns, Marettis, Vignons, Restouts and Halles, dropping into a Canadian 
 Church for a few thousand francs ! Two or three of these pictures to-day would 
 bring the price, if sold at auction, which the whole collection cost. The rarest 
 pictures in the city hang in the Basilica, and one may spend hours looking at 
 them and contemplating the genius of & -*ir authors. Indeed, should one arrive 
 at Quebec on a rainy day, the time could not be more pleasantly and profitably 
 spent than by making the round of the picture galleries, all save the elaborate 
 collection at Laval University, being free to all. It would be better to reserve 
 a fine bright day for Laval, for the pictures in that gallery should be seen by a 
 good light. Catalogues of the pictures in the Basilica are furnished to visitors. 
 The sacred vestments may be seen on application to the verger. They contain 
 several sets presented to Bishop Laval by the great Louis XIV, including one 
 set in beautiful and very valuable gold brocade. His Eminence Cardinal 
 Taschereau frequently officiates in the Basilica in full canonicals. 
 
 ^be Seininan? Cbapel, 
 
 adjoining the Basilica is a handsome new edifice only completed this year, and 
 replaces that destroyed by fire a few years ago with a number of valuable art 
 treasures that it contained, including a Saviour by Lagrence,^and a represen- 
 tation of the Ascension by P. Champagne. 
 
 Both the Basilica and the Seminary Chapel face upon 
 
 Zbc ®l^ m>arf^et Square. 
 
 HERE in bygone days the French-Canadian habitants' wives used to sit in 
 their carts or sleighs, on market days, peddling out their farm produce 
 to frequenters of the market, just as their successors do to-dav on the existing 
 markets outside St. John's gate and in Lower Town and St. Rochs. This old mar- 
 ket dated back to about 1686, and in 1844, covered wooden stalls for the accom- 
 modation of butchers were erected on the portion nearest the Russell House> 
 which was the site of the old Jesuit Church. They were torn down in 1877, 
 when the new stone market building, called after Montcalm, was erected near 
 St. John's gate. What a variety of scenes, tragic, gay, martial and religious, 
 has this old square witnessed ! 
 
 Immediately opposite to the Basilica, fenced off from the Market Place, is 
 the former site of 
 
29 
 
 ut very 
 imiliar. 
 
 It was 
 Uection 
 secured 
 hurches 
 
 chardsj 
 anadian 
 y would 
 e rarest 
 :)king at 
 le arrive 
 rofitably 
 ;laborate 
 ) reserve 
 ;en by a 
 
 visitors. 
 f contain 
 ding one 
 Cardinal 
 
 Zbc ®Ib 3e0utr6 College. 
 
 year, and 
 uable art 
 represen- 
 
 zd to sit in 
 m produce 
 le existing 
 lisoldmar- 
 the accom- 
 iell House> 
 n in 1877, 
 ected near 
 i religious, 
 
 et Place, is 
 
 (Tmj^ 
 
 HIS famous establishment dates back to 1637, the year before John 
 Harvard made his bequest to the university that now bears his name. 
 Twelve arpents of land were here granted to the Jesuit Fathers, who 
 had received as early as 1626, when Quebec contained but fifty souls, a gift of 
 sixteen thousand ecus d'or towards the intended structure, from a young noble- 
 man of Picardy, Rene dc Rohault, son of the Marquis de Gamache, who was 
 about taking the Jesuit vows of poverty, chastity and obedience. The college 
 was destroyed by fire in 1640. The new edifice which replaced it was largely 
 rebuilt in 1720. In 1763 it was taken possession of, by the British Governor 
 Murray for the accommodation of troops, and was subsequently known as the 
 Jesuit Barracks. When, in 1870, the Imperial forces were withdrawn from 
 Canada, the property passed into the possession of the Canadian Government, 
 and a few years later the building was declared unsafe and ordered to be demo- 
 lished. Yet, when the vandals came to destroy it, they had literally to use 
 dynamite to overthrow it. It occupied the four sides of the Square, and revelled 
 in immense corridors and gloomy passages, while impregnable vaults and 
 cells abounded in the ground basement. The frjnt portion of the ground has 
 been purchased by the city corporation of Quebec, for the erection thereon of 
 a new City Hall, while the rear part is to be occupied by a school building to 
 be erected by the Christian Brothers. In 1888, Prime Minister Mercier passed 
 an act through the provincial legislature, to compensate the Jesuits for the loss 
 of this and other of their property in Canada, which had long ago been declared 
 forfeited to the Crown. A good deal of bigotry and fanaticism was aroused 
 throughout the country by this settlement, but though strongly urged to veto the 
 measure, both the government at Ottawa and Lord Stanley of Preston, the 
 Governor-General, declined to do so. 
 
 Bu JnMan Mar Dance, 
 
 INDIAN alarms were frequent at Quebec between 1650 and 1660, and lively 
 scenes more than once occurred as the Iroquois invaders sought to 
 surprise the Fort, and drove into its shelter the Huron refugees that were encamp- 
 ed between it and the Jesuits' College. De Gaspd tells of an exciting scene he 
 witnessed on the old market place on a Sunday afternoon towards the end of 
 the last century. A number of Indians who were then encamped near Indian 
 Cove, on the Levis side of the river, landed in towm and ran so excitedly through 
 the streets as to cause some inquietude to the commandant of the garrison, w-ho 
 immediately doubled the guards at the gates of the city and of the barracks- 
 They wore but shirts and trousers, and hanging from the waists of many of 
 them were human scalps, showing that they had participated in the recent war 
 between the English and Americans. They were armed with tomahawks, their 
 
 i^D^Ltaoi. 
 
30 
 
 bodies were tattoed, their faces were painted in black and red, in which colors 
 they appeared well determined to paint the whole town too. After dancing in 
 small groups before the residences of the principal official personages, they 
 finally assembled, to the number of four or five hundred warriors, no women 
 having accompanied them, and commenced their hideous war dance in from of 
 the Basilica, where the fountain is now situated, just as the faithful were emer- 
 ging from the church after vespers. First there was the representation of a 
 council of war, with harangues from their chief, then they marched around in single 
 file after him imitating with their tomahawks the motion of paddles propelling 
 a canoe. The refrain of their song was, " Sahoutes ! Sahoutes I Sahoutes I 
 oniakerin ouatchi-chicono-ouatche I " then at a signal of their chief, there was 
 absolute silence, until a general sniffing in the air indicated that they felt the 
 approach of the enemy. All at once the chief gave a frightful yell which the 
 others repeated in chorus, and darting amongst the spectators, brandishing 
 awhile his deadly weapon, he seized hold of a young man, whom he slung over his 
 shoulder and ran back into the circle of his warriors. Then placing his supposed 
 victim down with his face to the ground, the Indian knelt ever him, and made 
 as though he was removing his scalp, subsequently appearing to slit open his 
 body, and with his hand as a ladle to drink the blood of his enemy. Some of 
 the more distant spectators feared a tragedy instead of a burlesque, and shouted, 
 '' save yourself my little Peter, they will skin you like an eel." With a dexterous 
 movement and a shout of triumph, the Indian had quickly turned himself about, 
 and drawn from his side a human scalp which he held aloft as a proof of victory, 
 and which had been painted a bright vermillion to give it a more ghastly and 
 natural appearance. Little Peter lost no time, on finding himself released, in 
 dashing out of harm's way, and making his escape through the crowd of spec- 
 tators.d) 
 
 I 
 
 ^ HOSE who have seen Millet'scelebratedpainting, maylike toknow of another 
 w "An^e/us" paintedby DeGaspe,(2) but the scene of which is placed upon this 
 old Market Place, instead of in the green fields of old France. The subject dates 
 back nearly a hundred years. Listen to the word painting of our author : 
 " It is noon : the Angelus sounds from the belfry of the cathedral : all the bells 
 of the town announce the salutation of the Angel to the Mother of Christ, the 
 beloved patronness of the Canadians. The habitants, whose vehicles surround 
 the stalls, uncover their heads and devoutly recite the Angelus. Everybody 
 follows the same worship : nobody ridicules this pious custom. Certain Chris- 
 tians of the nineteenth century seem to be ashamed of practising a religious act 
 
 SO 
 
 > 
 
 o 
 
 33 
 
 GO 
 
 H 
 1 
 
 (1 ). " Les Anciens Canadiens," par Philippe Aubert de Gasp^, Quebec 1877. Page ISi. 
 (2). " Les Anciens Canadiens," page 10. 
 
■»1 
 
 P3 
 
 > 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 I— I 
 
 o 
 
 05 
 H 
 
82 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 before anybody else. It is to say the least a proof of a weak and contracted 
 spirit. The disciples of Mahomet, more courag^eous, pray seven times a day, 
 and that in all localities, and in the very presence of timid Christians." 
 
 In the early part of the century, a small stream ran across the square in 
 front of the barracks, from the direction of St. Louis street and down Fabrique 
 street, eventually emptying itself into the St. Charles. A few old French houses 
 are still found facing the square amongst the modern buildings which DeGaspe 
 quaintly described as, " reaching towards heaven as though they feared another 
 deluge." One of these is the well-known tobacco establishment of Mr. (irondin, 
 which was the scene of the first Quebec restaurant, kept in 1648 by one Jacques 
 IJoisdon, then having the sign "Au Baril d'Or," with the added words, '"''J^en 
 bois ({flm." Jacques Boisdon had the right by deed, signed by M. d'Ailleboust, 
 Pere Lallemand, and the Sieurs Chavigny, Godfroy and (jiffard, to serve his 
 guests, provided it was not during mass, the sermon, catechism, or vespers. To 
 Ihe north of the Square are the stores of Messrs. Fisher & Blouin, saddlers, 
 where, in 1810., resided (General Brock, the hero of Quecnstown Heights. 
 
 Xaval 'Ulniveratt?. 
 
 \ O cultivated visitor can afford to leave Quebec without inspecting the 
 - I famous university of Laval, with its rare art treasures and varied 
 historical associations. It has a main entrance on the Grand Battery, as 
 already described, but may, too, be reached by a long passage from the Semi- 
 nary, whose gates adjoin the front of the Basilica on the Market Square. At 
 least half a day, or better, a whole day, should be devoted to this visit. The 
 university proper is known, sometimes, as the major seminary. The minor 
 seminary, which as already explained, adjoins it, is interesting to Americans, as 
 having been the scene of the confinement of the American officers taken 
 prisoners during the siege of the city by Arnold and Montgomery in 1775. It 
 was founded in 1663, by Mgr. de Montmorency Laval, first Roman Catholic 
 Bishop of Quebec and of Canada, who was allied to the Royal family of France, 
 and who left the greater part of his landed and other property to endow the 
 institution. The original seminary building was destroyed by fire in 1701, and 
 the university received its royal charter in 1852, and thereupon assumed the 
 name of Laval. The university buildings are three in number, the principal 
 having been erected in 1857. The main edifice is 298 feet in length, 60 in width, 
 and 80 in height, and viewed from the river, is, after the Citadel, the most promi- 
 nent building in the city. The buildings alone of the university and seminary 
 are valued at over a million dollars. The university consists of four faculties, — 
 Theology, Law, Medicine and Art, there being thirty-four professors and 
 nearly three hundred students. Seven colleges and seminaries are affiliated 
 with the university. There are several large halls, containing the museums of 
 Geology, Natural History, Arts and Sciences. The Picture Gallery is yearly 
 
 r<l 
 ii 
 a| 
 
 til 
 
 I I ■ ini ■-■■i . iji" aiwgjgggWgWM 
 
 ■MMPM* 
 
33 
 
 receiving large additions, while the library is the largest in Canada next to fha* 
 in thi» House of Parliament .it Ottawa, and contains 100,000 volumes, being 
 also rich in valuable MSS relating to the early history of the country. From 
 the promenade on the roof a magnificent view of the valley of the St. Charles 
 and down the St. Lawrence can be had. 
 
 The museum contains 1,000 instruments in the department of physics, 
 8,000 specimens in mineralogy and geology : the botanical department a 
 large and remarkable collection of Canadian woods, artificial fruit, and 10,000 
 plants : zoology, over one thousand stuffed birds, a large number of quadrupeds 
 and thousands of fishes, insects, etc. Then there are Egyptian mummies, 
 Indian skulls and weapons, and a variety of other curios, coins, medals, etc. 
 Admission to the picture gallery is obtained on payment of a small fee. This 
 gallery merits a protracted visit, both ancient and modern art being well repre- 
 sented, and though the showing of water colors is not strong, a few very good 
 things maybe seen. In oils, we have the work of such artists as Rosa Bonheur, 
 Daniel Mytens, T. Daniel Lcgart?, Salvator Gastiglione, H. Vargason, Monticelli, 
 Monnyer, Karl Vernet, Lucatelli, Salvator Rosa, David Teniers, Van Mullen, 
 John Opie, Peter Van Hloemen, Le Jeune, Vouet, Antoine VanDyck, Pisanello 
 Vitt )re, Tintoretto, F. Boucher and others. Catalogues may be had on appli- 
 cation. 
 
 (J^f 
 
 IRoiwxb about tbc Ibotel. 
 
 ^ ME Chateau St. Louis Hotel, as already related, is built upon historic ground, 
 and you may stand upon the street in front of it, and see clustered around 
 in close proximity a dozen or more localities redolent with memories of a 
 romantic past. 
 
 The small low building immediately opposite the ladies' entrance, now 
 occupied as a shaving saloon, is reported to have been one time the headquarters 
 of Cieneral Montcalm. Just east of the St. Louis, as we have already seen, is 
 Kent House, the town residence of H. R. H. the Duke of Kent, when commander 
 of the British troops in Canada. Next to it is the high peaked, antique Com- 
 missariat building, fitted out with solid iron shutters by the Imperial Government 
 in the early part of the century, for the safe keeping, before the era of banks 
 and police in Quebec, of the specie paid out to the troops and army contractors. 
 
 ^ HE building immediately opposite the main entrance of the hotel, the 
 U ground floor of which is a general American and Canadian railway and 
 steamship office, is the Masonic Hall. It contains in its lodge rooms, some 
 curious old chairs, covered with masonic devices, presented by the Queen's 
 uncle, the Duke of Sussex, in 1807, to Sussex lodge ; for both the royal Duke 
 and his brother, the Duke of Kent were zealous Freemasons. 
 
34 
 
 Zbc aca^cm? of riDuefc. 
 
 JMMEDIATELY adjoining the Chateau St. Louis on the westerly side if 
 the Academy of Music. This is an elegant hall managed in connection 
 with the St. Louis. It is the popular place of amusement here, and 
 since it has always had the reputation of being occupied by first-class companies, 
 performers are usually greeted with large audiences. On those nights during 
 the tourist season, upon which there is no perfomance in the Academy of Music, 
 there is generally music in the hotel for its guests. 
 
 Two doors past the Academy we come to a relic of "Ye olden times" in the 
 shape of a little one storey house with high gables, that denotes the earlies 
 style of French Canadian architecture. This was, according to Le Moine, 
 the house in which the chivalrous Montcalm breathed his last. It will be 
 remembered by those who have carefully studied the events of the memorable 
 13th of September 1759, that Wolfe's intrepid rival, rode in from his last battle- 
 field, on his black charger, mortally wounded, and supported by two grenadiers, 
 through St. Louis Gate, and on this very street told some poor women who 
 were horrified at his appearance and called out that he was killed, not to weep 
 for him as he was not seriously hurt. It is recorded that he expired at an early 
 hour the next morning, and it is believed that his death must have occurred in 
 Dr. Arnoux's into which he was carried, and which was situated in this old 
 building, now the office of P. Campbell's livery stable. 
 
 "In tht early part of this century. Queen Victoria's father, the Duke of 
 Kent, frequently visited this old building, to inspect the work of Mr. F. Baillarg^, 
 a member of the Royal Academy of Paintings and Sculptures of France, and 
 grand uncle of Chevalier Baillarge, City Engineer of Quebec. Franqois 
 Baillarge was a sculptor and made several of the statues in the Basilica." d) 
 
 Immediately opposite, is the short street leading to the Ursuline Convent, 
 kown as Parloir street, on the north-west corner of which lived the Abbe Vignal, 
 previous to his joining the Sulpicians in Montreal. In October i66i, he was 
 captured by the Iroquois at La Prairie de la Madeleine, near Montreal, roasted 
 alive and partly eaten by these fiends incarnate. 
 
 Zbc 'Ulrauline Convent 
 
 1 
 
 HIS convent founded in 1639 by Madame de la Peltrie, is one of the most 
 ancient in Canada. Built at first in 1 641, it was destroyed by fire in 1650: 
 rebuilt, it met with a similar fate in 1686. The foundations of that of 1641, and the 
 walls of that of 1650 being used, a third structure was erected after the fire, and i^ 
 still to be seen in rear of the modern wing, facing Garden and Parloir streets 
 The convent building, a pile of massive edifices of stone, two and three storeys 
 
 (1), Biography of Chas. Baillarg^, by Edgar La Selve, pubhtrtied by " La Revue i.xotique 
 Illustr6o," of Paris.— Page 8. 
 
 •mmmmmm 
 
 JUAwil. 
 
side \? 
 
 nection 
 
 :ie, and 
 
 ipanies, 
 
 during 
 
 Music, 
 
 SL.sne-r7: 
 
 SOUS LE CAP. (A Street of Quebec). 
 
36 
 
 high, are erected on ground covering an area of seven acres, surrounded by 
 St. Louis, St. Ursule, St. Anne and Garden streets. The entrant faces the end 
 of Parloir street. The chapel, which is 95 feet long and 45 broad, is quite-plain 
 outside, but the interior is pleasing though simple. On the right of the principal 
 altar is seen a large grating which separates the church from the choir in which 
 the nuns, who are cloistered, attend divine service. No man, not even the 
 Chaplain, is allowed to enter the cloister, save the governor of the country and 
 members of the Royal family. The sisterhood of the convent numbers nearly 
 a hundred, and its educational system is justly renowned. 
 
 The daughters of leading Canadian and American families are amongst 
 the 250 or so of pupil-boarders in the institution, and there are also a large 
 number of day pupils, l^raser's Highlanders were stationed in this convenj 
 during the winter of 1759, following the capture of Quebec, and the table on 
 which the first sentence of death was signed by the British authorities against 
 a woman, Madame Dodier, for poisoning her husband, is still to be seen in 
 the rear part of the convent. 
 
 But to tourists, the most attractive feature of the institution is the chape', 
 which contains the mortal remains of Montcalm, and wha\ are claimed to be 
 the following relics : — the body of St. Clements from the Catacombs of Rome, 
 brought to the Ursulines in 1687 ; the skull of one of the companions of St. 
 Ursula, 1675 ; ths skull of St. Justus, 1662 ; a piece of the Holy Cross, 1667 ; 
 a portion of the Crown of Thorns, brought from Paris in 1830. 
 
 General Montcalm was buried here on the day following the fatal yet 
 glorious fight of the nth of September 1759 on the Plains of Abraham. His 
 appropriate tomb was an excavation in the rock formed by the explosion of a 
 shell. Le Moine relates that in 1833, it having been found necessary to repair 
 the wall, an aged nun, Sister Dube, who had, as r. child, attended the funeral, 
 pointed out the grave of Montcalm. The skeleton was found intact, and the 
 skull placed in custody of the Chaplain. d) A monument to the memory of the 
 great General, erected September 14th, 1859, rt'ith an epitaph prepared in 1763, 
 by the French Academy, deserves attention. Another was erected to his 
 memory by Lord Aylmer in 1832, bearing an inscription of which the following 
 is the translation : 
 
 Honor 
 
 ^ TO 
 
 MONTCALM ! 
 
 Fate in depriving Him 
 
 OF Victory 
 
 Rewarded Him by 
 
 A Glorious Death ! 
 
 (1). " Quebec Past and Present," by J ' .. Le Moine, F. R. S. C, page 373. 
 
unded by 
 
 s the end 
 
 [uite- plain 
 
 principal 
 r in which 
 
 even the 
 untry and 
 jrs nearly 
 
 amongst 
 
 |(> a large 
 
 ; convent 
 
 table on 
 
 s against 
 
 e seen in 
 
 he chapel, 
 ned to be 
 of Rome, 
 )ns of St. 
 )ss, 1667 » 
 
 : fatal yet 
 lam. His 
 losion of a 
 y^ to repair 
 \e funeral, 
 :, and the 
 lory of the 
 >d in 1763, 
 ed to his 
 ; following 
 
 31 
 
 Of the works of art to be found in this chapel, the following description is 
 from the accomplished pen of Dr. George Stewart, F.R.G.S., who is moreover 
 the author of the paper on Quebec in the Enryclopa:dia Britannica, 
 
 "It has no marbles of special account, but no city in the Dominion can boast 
 of so many gems in oils, while in fine carvings on ivory, it may be questioned, 
 whether in Rome itself or in Florence, two such glorious Crucifixes as may be 
 found in the little Ursuline chapel can be seen. These Christs are wonderful 
 pieces of work. They are probably five hundred years old, and the artist who 
 carved them is unknown, but his splendid work stands out, and attests his 
 genius. Some one in the I'rsuline Convent will show these masterpieces with 
 true French-Canadian politeness, and he will be careful to draw your attention 
 to the life-like character of the Christ's head, the magnificent correctness of the 
 anatomy and the remarkable study of the veins which are disclosed. One never 
 tires of looking at these two beautiful ivories, and it is almost worth a visit to 
 Quebec to see them rlone. But in this same Ursuline Chapel, which Howells 
 has so cleverly limned in his delightful story of the Saguenay and of Quebec, 
 are many paintings in oil, which may be seen for the asking. In the chapel 
 there is that masterpiece of the French School, " Jesus sitting down at meat in 
 Simon's house," by Philippe de Champagne. The coloring is striking, fresh 
 and nobly done. When Prince Napoleon visited Quebec, some years ago, and 
 saw this picture, he offered the holders any price that they might name for it. 
 But the wise churchmen declined all offers. This Champagne belonged to 
 the set which was sent to Quebec a hundred years ago from Paris, among a lot 
 of paintings rescued from the French mob of the old time Communists, and 
 sent here by a good priest who once resided in Quebec, and knew that her 
 people would appreciate treasures of that sort. Indeed, nearly all the really 
 good pictures which this old city boasts, reached it in the way described. All 
 Schools of Art are represented, and as a result we ha\e here the works of the 
 noted Italian, German, Spanish, Flemish, French and English painters of three 
 or four centuries ago, though of course, only a few exhibit them at their best- 
 In 1837, J. Prud'homme painted his Bishop of St. Nonus, admitting to penance 
 Ste. Pelagie. It is a brillianc canvas and is shown here under a good light. "^D 
 
 St Xoui0 Street, 
 
 l*yrURNING by Parloir street from the Ursuline Convent, we are again 
 ■- within a dozen or two of steps of the Chateau St. Louis Hotel. 
 If time will permit, let us, prior to starting for a drive to the Citadel or Parlia- 
 ment House, stroll quietly as far as St. Louis Gate, up St. Louis street, so rich 
 in historic associations and relics of the French regime. In his sketch on 
 " St. Louis street and its storied past," dedicated to the Quebec Garrison Club» 
 
 (1). Geo. Stewart, jr., D.C.L., F.R.8.C., in the Quebec Morning Chronicle, June 19th, 1889. 
 
 BHHkMHktdBu^WiatliUiJ 
 
 riiiiiiriiiMiiiiMimimriwiipMtiT^Miili 
 
38 
 
 (Christmas 1890), Le Moine makes use of a dialogue, in which he places in the 
 nn.uth of his friend William Kirby, F.R.S.C, and author of the " Golden Dog " 
 novel, the following suggestive utterance : — "St. Louis Gate ! (I mean the old 
 gate), Why that takes one back more than two hundred years. One would like 
 to know what King Louis XIII replied to his far-seeing Prime-Minister Cardinal 
 de Richelieu, when he reported to him that a crooked path in wotid-covered 
 Stadacona, leading through the forest primeval, by a narrow clearance called 
 La Grande Allee, all the way to Sillery, was called Louis street : that he, 
 Richelieu, had ordered that his own name should be given to another forest 
 path near the Cote Ste. Genevieve, now Richelieu street, and that it ran parallel 
 to another uneven road, called after a pious French Duchess, d'Aiguillon street, 
 whilst the street laid out due north, parallel to St. Louis street, took the name 
 of the French Queen, the beautiful Anne of Austria. Did the royal master of 
 Versailles realise what a fabulous amount of Canadian history would be 
 transacted on this rude avenue of his nascent capital in New France ? 
 
 Passing by Campbell's livery stable, in the office of which Montcalm expired 
 in 1759, when it was Dr. Arnoux's surgery, we come on the same side of the 
 street to the old fashioned stone edifice, now bearing the street number 59, 
 which was presented nearly 150 years ago by the French Intendant Bigot, to 
 tlie beautiful Angelique de Meloises, Madame Hughes Pean, as a New Year's 
 gift. In consequence of Bigot's passion for the beautiful Madame Pean, her 
 husband became prodigiously wealthy, having been sent away to a distant 
 post, where everyoppc^rtunity was afforded him of making a fortune. The author 
 of " The Golden Dog " thus describes the old house : " It was a tall and rather 
 pretentious edifice, overlooking the fashionable Rue St. Louis, where it still 
 stands old and melancholy, as if mourning over its departed splendor. Few 
 eyes look up nowadays to its broad facade. It was otherwise when the beau- 
 tiful Angelique sat of summer evenings on the balcony, surrounded by a bevy 
 of Quebec's fairest daughters, who loved to haunt her windows, where they could 
 see and be seen to the best advantage, exchanging salutations, smiles and 
 repartees with the gay young officers and gallants who rode or walked along 
 the lively thoroughfare." Angelique's career is vividly related in Kirby's great 
 novel. After telling the story of the part she was supposed to have played in 
 the murder of her hated rival, Caroline, at Bigot's Chateau of Beaumanoir, a few 
 miles out of the city, the author of the "Golden Dog," describes how this 
 beautiful wretch became the recognized mistress of the Intendant — "imitating 
 as far as she was able, the splendor and the guilt of La Pompadour, and 
 making the palace of Bigot as corrupt, if not as brilliant, as that of Versailles. 
 She lived, thenceforth, a life of splendid sin. She clothed herself in purple and 
 fine linen, while the ncblest ladies of the land were reduced by the war to rags 
 and beggary. She fared sumptuously, while men and women died of hunger 
 in the streets of Quebec. She bought houses and lands and filled her coffers 
 with gold, out of the public treasury, while the brave soldiers of Montcalm 
 
s in the 
 
 n Dog " 
 
 the old 
 
 )uld like 
 
 Cardinal 
 
 •covered 
 
 e called 
 
 ihat he, 
 
 ir forest 
 
 parallel 
 
 )n street, 
 
 he name 
 
 laster of 
 
 'ould be 
 
 1 expired 
 le of the 
 mber 59, 
 Bigot, to 
 !w Year's 
 ean, her 
 a distant 
 he author 
 nd rather 
 re it still 
 or. Few 
 :he beau- 
 ty a bevy 
 liey could 
 miles and 
 ed along 
 by's great 
 alayed in 
 loir, a few 
 how this 
 imitating 
 lour, and 
 /ersailles. 
 urple and 
 r to rags 
 of hunger 
 ler coffers 
 Vlontcalm 
 
 HOUSE WHERE MONTGOMERY WAS LAID OUT. 
 
 "'"•"""""^iiMtti^^ 
 
40 
 
 starved for want of pay. She gave fetes and banquets, wiiile the EngHsh 
 were thundering at the gates of the Capital. She foresaw the eventful fall of 
 Bigot and the ruin of the country, and resolved that since she had failed in 
 getting himself, she would make herself possessor of all that he had, and she 
 got it I— She would fain have gone to France to try her fortune when the 
 colony was lost, but La Pompadour forbade her presence there under pain of 
 her severest displeasure. Angelique raved at the inhibition, but was too wise to 
 tempt the wrath of her royal mistress by disobeying her mandate. She had 
 to content herself with railing at La l-'ompadour with the energy of three Furies, 
 but she never ceased to the end of her life to boast of the terror which her charms 
 had exercised over the great favorite of the King. Rolling in wealth and 
 scarcely faded in beauty, Angelique kept herself in the public eye. She hated 
 retirement and boldly claimed her right to a foremost place in the society of 
 Quebec. Her great wealth and unrivalled power of intrigue enabled her to keep 
 that place down to the last decade of the last century. A generation ago, very 
 old men and women still talked of the gorgeous carriages and splendid liveries of 
 the great Dame de Pean, whom they had seen in their childhood, rolling in state 
 along the broad avenue of St. Foye, the admiration, envy and evil example of 
 her sex. Many people shook their heads and vvhispered queer stories of her 
 past life in the days of Intendant Bigot, but none knew the worst of her. The 
 forgotten chamber of Beaumanoir kept its terrible secret till long after she had 
 disappeared from the scene of her extravagant life. The delight of Angelique 
 was in the eyes of men, and the business of her life was to retain their admiration 
 down to the last years of an incorrigible old age."(1) 
 
 In the early part of the present century this building was acquired by the 
 Ordnance department as officerL' barracks, and is still occupied by some of 
 the local staff. 
 
 it 
 
 Mbcrc flDontijotncr^ wa6 laib out an<) burtcb. 
 
 FEW doors further on, but on the opposite side of the street, is the 
 newly erected residence of Chevalier Baillarge, F.R.S.C., City 
 Engineer, being street number 72. This occupies the site of a low wooden 
 building demolished in 1889, in which the body of the American General 
 Richard Montgomery was laid after his unsuccessful and fatal attack upon 
 Quebec, on the night of the 31st December, 1775. At that time, this old hut 
 was the cooper's shop of oneGobert. When demolished it was some 250 years old 
 It was certainly one of the oldest buildings in the city, its rafters being formed of 
 rough poles from which the bark had never been completely remo\ed. A few 
 steps further, on the same side of the street, and we come to the City Hall, — a 
 modern and unpretentious building, and now almost universally conceded to 
 
 (1 ). The " Golden Dog," by W. Kirby, pages 075 and 670. 
 
 iMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiH 
 
41 
 
 be too small for the requirements of the city. Almost opposite to it, on the 
 other side of the street, with projectint,^ modern windows that have been recently 
 added, is the Union Club House, the home of the aristocr;itic club of Quebec, 
 and one of the most select and most complete institutions of the kind in the 
 country. In 1812-13, it served as a place of confinement for the American 
 prisoners taken at Detroit. Later it was the residence of the Hon. W. Smith, 
 author of "Smith's History of Canada." The two houses adjoining, now occu- 
 pied respectively by Judges Routhier and Bosse, formed one mansion, thirty 
 years ago, which was occupie' by Lord Monk, then Ciovernor-General of 
 Canada. We have now arrived at 
 
 ^ HIS is the name giv^en to the expanse of verdure, fringed with graceful 
 *J maples and elms, extending from St. Louis to St. John's gate, and lying 
 at the foot of the green slope crowned by the city fortifications. It was formerly 
 the parade ground uf the Imperial troops, and reviews of Canadian forces 
 sometimes occur here. In the large stone building on St. Louis street, at the 
 head of the Esplanade, formerly resided Chief Justice Jonathan Sewcll. It is 
 now the officers' quarters of the Royal School of Canadian Cavalry. The barracks 
 and stables are in the rear, and the latter arc well worthy of inspection. The 
 Commandant of the School is Col. Turnbull. That long low building between 
 the Cavalry School and St. Louis Gate, is the Garrison Club, which is under 
 the control of the military ofiicers of the district, though civilians are admitted 
 to membership under certain conditions. The road that turns up parallel with 
 the fortifications, past the end of the Cl.b House, leads to the Citadel. 
 
 In the side of the green slope, on the righthand side as one turns up the 
 road, General Richard Montg^omery was buried after his fatal invasion of 
 Quebec, on the 31st December, 1775. His sorrowing widow had the remains 
 exhumed on the i6th June, 1818, and interred in the cemetery of St. Paul's 
 church. New York, where she erected a suitable monument to his memory. 
 Through the gate, at this point, one obtains an excellent view or the Parliament 
 House. This, as well as the Citadel, will be described later. The present 
 affords a good opportunity for a brief study of 
 
 Zbc Cit^ (5atc6 an^ fortifications. 
 
 F all the historic monuments connecting modern Quebec with its 
 eventful and heroic past, none have deservedly held a higher place in 
 the estimation of the antiquarian, the scholar and the curious stranger than the 
 gates of the renowned fortress. These relics of a by-gone age, with their 
 massive proportions and grim, media^va' architecture, no longer exist, howeven 
 to carry the mind back to the days which invest the oldest city in North 
 
 iiiiiiitHiiti 
 
TTS^ 
 
 42 
 
 America, with its peculiar interest and attractions. Indeed, nothing now 
 remains to show where they once raised their formidable barriers to the foe, or 
 opened their hospitable portals to friends, but three handsome substitutes of 
 modern construction and a number of yawning apertures in the line of circum- 
 vallation that represents the later defences of the place erected under Hritish 
 rule. Of the three gates — St. Louis, St. John and Palace — which originally 
 pierced the fortifications of Quebec under French Dominion, the last vestige 
 disappeared many, many years ago, and the structures with which they were 
 replaced, together with the two additional and similarly guarded openings — 
 Hope and Prescott Gates — provided for the public convenience or military 
 requirements by the British Government since the Conquest, have undergone 
 the same fate within the last few decades, to gratify what were known as 
 modern ideas of progress and improvement, though vandalism would, perhaps, 
 have been the better term. No desecrating hand, however, can rob those 
 hallowed links, in the chain of recollection, of the glorious memories which 
 cluster around them so thickly. Time and obliteration itself have wrought no 
 diminution of the world's regard for their cherished associations. To each one 
 of them, an undying history attaches and even their vacant sites appeal with 
 mute, but surpassing eloquence to the sympathy, the interest and the veneration 
 of visitors, to whom Quebec will be ever dear, not for what it is, but for what it 
 has been. To the quick comprehension of Lord Dufiferin, it remained to note 
 the inestimable value of such heirlooms to the world at large ; to his happy 
 tact we owe the revival of even a local concern for their religious preservation ; 
 and to his fertile mind and aesthetic tastes, we are indebted for the conception 
 of the noble scheme of restoration, embellishment and addition in harmony 
 with local requirements and modern notions of progress, which has since been 
 realized to keep their memories intact for succeeding generations and retain for 
 the cradle of New France its unique reputation as the famous walled city of the 
 New World. 
 
 The ram.ble around the old ramparts of Quebec, makes an exceedingly 
 interesting and picturesque stroll, and the various views to be had therefrom, 
 will amply repay the tourist for his trouble, especially if he be armed with a 
 kodak, or has the time and talent necessary for sketching or painting. Com- 
 mencing therefore, with St. Louis gate, we here start out upon the little tour. 
 
 St Xout0 iBate. 
 
 JT has more than once been remarked by tourists that, in theu peculiar 
 fondness for a religious nomenclature, the early French settlers of 
 Quebec must have exhausted the saintly calendar in adapting names to their 
 public highways, places and institutions. To this pardonable trait in their 
 character, we must unquestionably ascribe the names given to two of the three 
 original gates in their primitive lines of defence — St. Louis and St. John's gates — 
 
ST. LOUIS GATE, (Outside in 18()4}. 
 
 ST. LOUIS GATE, 1S91. 
 
44 
 
 names which they were allowed to retain 'when the (Gallic lilies paled before the 
 meteor flag of Hritain. The erection of tlW; original St. Louis gate undoubtedly 
 dates back as far as 1694. Authentic records prove this fact beyond question ; 
 but it is not quite so clear what part this gate played in subsequent history 
 di)wn to the time of the Conquest, though it may l)e fairly presumed that it 
 rendered important services, in connection especially with the many harassing 
 attacks of the ferocious Iroquois in the constant wars which were waged in the 
 early days of the infant colony, with those formidable and savage foes of the 
 French. One thing is certain, however, that it was one of the gates by which 
 a great portion of Montcalm's army, after its defeat on the Plains of Abraham 
 passed into the city on its way back, via Palace gate and the bridge of boats 
 over the St. Charles, to the Beauport camp. In 1791, after Quebec had fallen 
 into British hands, St. Louis uate was rep:)rted to be in a ruinous condition, 
 and it became necessary to pull it down and rebuild it. Between this date and 
 1S23, it appears to have undergone several changes ; but in the latter year, as 
 part of the plan of defence, including the Citadel, adopted by the celebrated 
 Duke of Wellington, and carried out at an enormous cost by England, it was 
 replaced by the structure, retaining the same name, which forms the subject of 
 one of our illustrations. Ab:)ut this time seem to have been also constructed 
 the singularly tortuous outward approaches to this opening in the western wall 
 of the city, which were eventually so inconvenient to traffic in peaceful days, of 
 whatever value they might have been from a military stand-point in troublous 
 hours three quarters of a century ago. These were also renioved with the Ciate 
 itself in 1871. On the vacant site of the latter, in accordance with Lord 
 DufTerin's improved project, the present magnificent archway with Norman 
 spires and castellated turrets, was erected in 1879, by Mr. H. J. Beemer. Lord 
 and Lady Dufferin, before their departure from Canada in 1878, assisted at the 
 laying of the foundation stone of this structure. 
 
 Proceeding in a northerly direction along the summit of the fortification 
 wall, until we come to where the Esplanade narrt)ws into a simple glacis 
 between the wall and the street, we reach 
 
 llvcnt 6atc. 
 
 ^1 HE line of fortification was only cut through here to give a new avenue of 
 communication between the Upper Town and the suburbs, some fifteen 
 years ago. It consequently became necessary, in keeping with the aesthetic spirit 
 of the whole Dufferin scheme, to fill up in someway this unsightly gap without 
 interfering with the traffic. It was finally decided to erect here one of the propos- 
 ed memorial gates, which is altogether theref<)re an addition to the number of the 
 already existing gates or theii*intended substitutes. This structure was designed 
 to do homage to the memory of Edward, Duke of Kent, the father of Her 
 Majesty Queen Victoria, who contributed from her own purse towards the cost 
 
KEN! GATE, 1891. 
 
46 
 
 of its construction, and whose daughter, H.R. H. Princess Louise, laid its 
 foundation stone in 1879. 
 
 A very short distance to the north of Kent gate we come to '' 
 
 St. 3oWe (Bate. ' 
 
 ^- S an interesting link between the present and the past St. John's gate 
 -w' V^ holds an equally prominent rank and claims an equal antiquity with 
 St. Louis gate. Its erection as one of the original gates of the F'rench fortress 
 dates from the same year, and its history is very much the same. Through it» 
 another portion of Montcalm's defeated forces found their way behind the 
 shelter of the defences after the fatal day of the Plains of Abraham. Like St. 
 Louis gate, too, it was pulled down on account of its ruinous condition in 1791, 
 and subsequently rebuilt by the British (iovernment in the shape in which it 
 endured until 1865, when — the first of all the more modern gates — it was demo- 
 lished and replaced, at an expense of some $40,000 to the city, by its present 
 moreornate and convenient substitute to meetthe increased requirements oftraffic 
 over the great artery of the upper levels — St. John Street. It may be well to 
 remark that St. John's gate was one of the objective points included in the 
 American plan of assault upon Quebec on the memorable 31st December, 1775; 
 Col. Livingston, with a regiment of insurgent Canadians, and Major Brown, 
 with part of a regiment from Boston, having been detailed to make a false 
 attack upon the walls to the south of it and to set fire to the gate itself with 
 combustibles prepared for that purpose — a neat little scheme in which the 
 assailants were foiled by the great depth of snow and other obstacles. 
 
 G>' 
 
 palate (3atc. 
 
 'ALACE or the Palais gate, claims attention as the third and last of the 
 ,^ old French portals of the city, and derives its title from the fact that the 
 highway which passed through it, led to the palace or residence of the famous 
 or infamous Intendants of New France, which has also given its name to the 
 present quarter of the city lying beneath the cliff on the northern face of the 
 fortress, where its crumbling ruins are still visible in the immediate neighbor- 
 hood of the passenger terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Erected 
 under French rule, during which it is believed to have been the most fashionable 
 and the most used, it bade a final farewell to the last of its gallant, but unfortu- 
 nate French defenders, and to that imperial power which, for more than one 
 hundred and fifty years, had swayed the colonial destinies of the Canadas, and 
 contested inch by inch with England the supremacy of the New World, when 
 Montcalm's defeated troops passed out beneath its darkening shadows on the 
 evening of the fatal 13th September, 1759. After the capitulation of Quebec, 
 General Murray devoted himself at once to the work of strengthening the 
 defences of the stronghold, and the attention in this respect paid to Palace gate 
 
 "■BPCT" 
 
laid its 
 
 hn's gate 
 uity with 
 h fortress 
 irough it> 
 ihind the 
 Like St. 
 1 in 1791, 
 1 which it 
 :as demo- 
 ts present 
 ts of traffic 
 be well to 
 ed in the 
 ber, 1775; 
 )r Brown, 
 ike a false 
 itself with 
 which the 
 
 ast of the 
 ct that the 
 he famous 
 me to the 
 ace of the 
 
 neighbor- 
 Erected 
 ashionable 
 ut unfortu- 
 e than one 
 nadas, and 
 arid, when 
 ows on the 
 j{ Quebec, 
 icning the 
 
 alace gate 
 
 OLD ST. JOHN'S GATE, (InsiJ-i) in 18()4. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S GATE, LS9L 
 
 J 
 
 'iSk 
 
48 
 
 appeals to have stood him in ^'ood stead during' the following year's campaif,'n, 
 when the British invaders, defeated in the battle of St. F'oye, were compelled 
 to take shelter behind the walls of the town and sustain a short siege at the 
 hands of the victorious f>ench under de Levis. In 1791, the old French 
 structure was razed by the English on account of its ruinous condition ; but in 
 the meanwhile, during 1775, it hacf gallantly withstood the assaults and siege 
 of the American invaders under Montgomery and Benedict Arnold. The 
 somewhat ornate substitute, by which it was replaced is said to have resembled 
 one of the gates of Pompeii, and seems to have been erected as late as the year 
 1830 or 1831, as, in the course of its demolition in 1874, an inscription was laid 
 bare, attesting the fact that at least the timbers and planking had been put up 
 by local workmen in 183 1. It is not intended to rebuild this gate under the 
 Dufferin plan on account of the great volume of traffic, more especially since 
 the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway, to whose terminus the roadway 
 which leads over i'.s site is the most direct route. To mark that memorable 
 site, however, it is intended to flank it on either side with picturesque Norman 
 turrets rising above the line of the fortification wall. 
 
 Ibope (Bate. 
 
 ^Lf, OPE gate, also on the northern face of the ramparts, was the first of the 
 -w' V two purely British gates of Quebec, and was erected in 1786 by Colonel 
 Henry Hope, Commandant of the Forces, and Administrator of the Province, 
 from whom it takes its name. It was demolished in 1874 for no reason, it 
 would seem, but to gratify the vandal taste which raged at the time — this one, 
 least of all the city gates, being an obstacle to the growing requirements of 
 traffic, as will be readily understood from its situation and the style of its cons- 
 struction, which was an open archway. Like Palace gate, too, it is not to be 
 rebuilt— its approaches being easily commanded and its position on the rugged, 
 lofty cliff being naturally very strong. Its site, however, will be marked in the 
 carrying out of the Dufferin Improvements, should they ever be completed, by 
 flanking Norman turrets. 
 
 '';■' 
 
 preecott (Bate. 
 
 ^ HE last of the city gates proper, wholly of British origin, but the first that 
 grimly confronted in by-gone days the visitor approaching the city from 
 the water-side and entering the fortress, is, or rather was Prescott gate which 
 commanded the steep approach known as Mountain Hill. This gate which 
 was more commonly known as the Lower Town gate, because it led to that 
 part — the oldest — of the city known by that name, was erected in 1797, (to 
 replace a rough structure of pickets, which existed at this point from the time 
 of the siege by the Americans in 1775), by General Robert Prescott, who served 
 
jpaij,'n» 
 ipelled 
 at the 
 French 
 
 but in 
 :l siege 
 1. The 
 embled 
 he year 
 vas laid 
 
 put up 
 der the 
 ly since 
 oadway 
 norable 
 "Gorman 
 
 49 
 
 in America durinj^ the revolutionary war, and, after further service in the West 
 Indies, succeeded Lord Dorchester as the British (lovernor-Cieneral in Lower 
 Canada in 1796, dying in 1815 at the age of 89 years, and giving his name to 
 this memento of his administration, as well as to Prescott, Ontario. Old 
 Prescott gate, was unquestionably a great public nuisance in times of peace, 
 •such as Quebec has happily known for many years and as we hope it will 
 continue to enjoy for many mon- ; its demolition in 1871 consequently provoked 
 the least regret of all in connection with the obliteration of those curious relics 
 of Quebec's historic past— its gates. For reasons which are obvious, it would 
 be impossible to replace Prescott j^ate with any structure of a like character 
 without impeding very seriously, the flow of traffic by way of such a leading 
 artery as Mountain Fiill. Indeed, the utility of all such accessories of an obso- 
 lete mode of warfare, and of much of the costly and comparatively modern 
 defences of Quebec has been altogcthfr obviated by the great changes in the 
 military art, which has supplied their shortcomings by means of the still more 
 recent and formidable casemated forts arx! earthworks at Point Levis. 
 
 It is one of the proposals however, of Lord Dufiferin's plans to replace this 
 gate by a light and handsome iron bridge of a single span, over the roadway, 
 with flanking Norman turrets.d) 
 
 ,t of the 
 Colonel 
 rovince, 
 ason, it 
 this one, 
 lents of 
 its cons- 
 lot to be 
 rugged, 
 :d in the 
 eted, by 
 
 irst that 
 ity from 
 ;e which 
 te which 
 to that 
 1797, (to 
 the time 
 10 served 
 
 mi 
 
 Zbc IbotcUDicu. 
 
 ^ /\ BOUT five minutes walk from the Chateau St. Louis Hotel, and an 
 
 ^»P\ .even less distance from, the Upper Town Market Place and Basilica, 
 
 "^^"^ ^^ are the Hotel Dieu Convent and Hospital, founded in 1639, by the 
 
 Duchesse d'Aiguillon, niece of the famous Cardinal Richelieu, who brought out 
 
 the Hospitali^res Nuns and placed them in charge. 
 
 The entrance to the chapel is on Charlevoix street. On his way thither 
 from the hotel, the tourist, especially upon reaching St. John street, will be 
 much interested in the curious angles at which some of the streets run, and 
 notaby Fabrique, Garneau and Couillard streets, forming at their intersection 
 of John street a number of remarkable three-cornered lots having houses of the 
 same irregular shapes constructed thereon. Soi.ie of the earliest European 
 habitations erected in Canada were built upon these streets, which were then 
 mere Indian pathways. Like all the early public buildings in Quebec, the 
 Hotel Dieu was destroyed by fire prior to the siege of 1759. It was subse- 
 quently rebuilt. Amongst the fine paintings that adorn the walls of the chapel, 
 are the following : — 
 
 (1). Much of the above description of the old gates of Quebec, and of Lord DuflFerin's plans 
 of city improvement, is condensed frum the illustrated supplement of the Quebec Morning 
 Chronicle, of June 4tn, 1876, now, unfortunately somewhat rare. 
 
50 
 
 The Nativity Stella. 
 
 The Virgin and Child Noel Coypol. 
 
 Vision of Ste. Thcrcse Geul Munagot. 
 
 St. Bruno in Meditation Eustache LeSueur. 
 
 The Descent from the Cross Copy by Plamondon. 
 
 The Twelve Apostles Copy by Baillarge the elder. 
 
 The Monk in prayer De Zurbaran. 
 
 Of greater interest however, than either of these, admirable though they 
 be as works of art, are the relics of the early Jesuit martyrs — massacred 
 missionaries. Here are deposited the bones of Father Lallement, and the 
 skull of the brave Brcbctuf, the latter relic being contained in a silver bust of 
 the missionary h ro, sent by his kinsmen from France. The story of the 
 martyrdom of the.- .wo heros, is graphically told by Parkman.d) Dragged 
 from their Huron Mission house at St. Ignace, south-east of Georgian Bay, by 
 the savage Iroquois, they were bound to stakes and slowly tortured to death. 
 Breboeuf continued to loudly exhort his Huron converts, and promised them 
 Heaven as a reward. " The Iroquois, incensed, scorched him from head to foot 
 to silence him ; whereupon, in the tone of a master, he threatened them with 
 everlasting flames, for persecuting the worshippers of God. As he contmued 
 to speak with voice and countenance unchanged, they cut away his lower lip 
 and thrust a red hot iron down his throat. They tied strips of bark, smeared 
 with pitch, about Lalement's naked body, and set fire to them. Next they hung 
 around Breboeuf s neck, a collar made of hatchets heated red hot : he, the 
 indomitable priest, stood like a rock. A Huron in the crowd, who had been a 
 convert of the mission, but was an Iroquois by adoption, called out with the 
 malice of a renegade, to pour hot water on their heads, since they had poured 
 so much cold water on those ot others. The kettle was accordingly slung, and 
 the water boiled and poured slowly on the two missionaries. 'We baptize you ! * 
 they cried, ' that you may be happy in heaven : for nobody can be saved without 
 a good baptism.' Breboeuf would not flinch : and in a rage, they cut strips of 
 flesh from his ribs, and devoured them before his eyes. Other renegade Hurons 
 called out to him, 'you told us Hiat the more one suffers on earth, the happier 
 he is in Heaven. We wish to make you happy : we torment you because we 
 love you ; and you ought to thank us for it.' After a succession of other revolting 
 tortures they scalped him : when seeing him nearly dead, they laid open his 
 breast, and came in a crowd to drii k the blood of so valiant an enemy, thinking 
 to imbibe with it some portion of h s courage. A chief then tore out his heart 
 and devoured it." Lalement was t k tared several hours longer, when one of 
 the savages, tired of the entertainment, dispatched him with a hatchet. Such 
 was the martyrdom of those whose relics are to be found in the chapel. 
 
 If we descend Palace Hill, which bounds the Hotel-Dieu on the west 
 
 ! ( 
 
 (1 ). The Jesuits in North Amerioii. Page 3S8. 
 
PALACE GATR (Ontsi'le) in 18<i4. 
 
 le west 
 
 HOPE GATE (Inside) in 1864. 
 
 'sauAUt^/.oi 
 
52 
 
 and continue in the direction of the Canadian Pacific Railway station, until we 
 reach the plateau Jtt its foot,* we find ourselves close to the site of 
 
 Biaora ®l^ palace. 
 
 I HE ruins of a portion of this building have been transformed into ale 
 Jl and porter vaults, and are still to be seen in rear of Boswell's Brewery. 
 When tenanted by the infamous French Intendants, the palace was employed 
 for yet viler purposes. It was at once the abode of luxurj- and the scene of 
 revelry, and debauchery, where Bigot concocted his nefarious plottings, and 
 squandered the thousands which he robbed from the public treasury. Often 
 he must have let himself into this princely palace with his latch key, in the wee 
 sma' hours of the morning, after his disreputable rendez-vous with the fair, or 
 rather dusky occupant of his country house, concealed in the woods of Charles- 
 bourg two or three miles away. • . 
 
 An American gentleman who visited Quebec some time ago, got together 
 the following somewhat hazy information concerning this illicit lover : " The 
 ruffian of the tale had a very bad name, none other than Bigot. He was a 
 French Intendant in the year 1747, and was a scapegrace and boodler of the 
 deepest dye. He had to skip out of France, because of certain deficiencies in 
 the vaults of the bank of which he was manager, but even at that early history 
 of the world he knew enough to come to Canada, where he was lionized by the 
 ladies. He was rather fond of horsemanship, and taking lone diinks out in the 
 country hotels. One evening he got pretty full, and could not find his way 
 home before night overtook him. He did not care about ghost stories, for the 
 ghost was in the habit of walking for him at the end of each month with a 
 great big wallet of dollars ; so he sat down under a tree and slept. Caroline 
 was accustomed to climb a tree in that part of the wood every night for the 
 purpose of making up probs for the morning papers, and, unfortunately for her^ 
 she chose the tree under which the Intendant was sleeping it off. They saw 
 each other, and loved at sight, and they might have been ever so happy if Mrs. 
 Bigot didn't happen to catch on to the racket. Caroline was sleeping one night 
 in her forest bovver dreaming about the very bright world she lived in, when 
 the green eyed Mrs. Bigot crept in with a large snickersnee, and with a howl of 
 rage and vengeance severed the carotid artery of the sleeping Indian beauty. 
 When the Intendant heard of the row, he constituted himself judge and jury on 
 his wife, hanged her first and tried her afterwards. He then scooped up all 
 the cash arid bonds in the Provincial Exchequer, and made his sneak in the 
 dead of night to the States, where he soon got into Congress." 
 
 St. *IRocb0. 
 
 V- H E low-lying portion of the city, stretching away west from the scene of the 
 SJ old palace is St. Rochs suburbs. Upon its main thoroughfare, St. Joseph 
 
we 
 
 or 
 
 53 
 
 street, are situated some of the finest shops in Quebec, and the large and 
 handsome parish church of vSt. Rochs. 
 
 In this quarter, which is also the industrial district of the city, are to be 
 found almost all the extensive tanneries and shoe factories for which Quebec is 
 noted. In years gone by, shipbuilding was a great industry in St. Rochs, 
 twenty to thirty wooden ships having frequently been built in a single winter, 
 along the banks of the St. Charles river. The whole of this suburb was 
 destroyed by fire in 1845, and numbers of human beings perished. It was 
 again burned over in 1866. 
 
 Zhc C itabcl ant) jfortification TOalle. 
 
 l^, HE Citadel, and the old fortifications, rank of course amongst the leading 
 attractions of Quebec. The road ! .ding up to the Citadel has already 
 been pointed out, between the (tarrison Club and St. Louis gate. As 
 there is a steep hill to climb, many prefer to drive to the entrance of the cele- 
 brated fortress. 
 
 Before arriving there, the tourist passes through a labyrinth of trenches, 
 bordered on either side by high walls blocked by earthworks, all of which are 
 pierced with openings through which gleam the mouth of cannon, and loopholed 
 for musketry. Entrance to the Citadel is also barred by a massive chain gate* 
 and also by the Dalhousie gate, erected in 1827, a massive construction of 
 considerable depth. The Citadel covers an area of about forty acres on the 
 highest point of Cape Diamond. The P'rench erected wooden fortifications 
 here, and spent so much money upon them and upon the other deiences of the 
 city, together with what was boodled by Bigot and his assistants, that Louis 
 XIV is reported to have asked whether the fortifications of Quebec were built 
 of gold. 
 
 The first under British rule were c )nstructed by the Royal Engineers, and 
 fell into decay at the end of the century. Their re-construction dates back to 
 1823, and was carried out according to plans submitted to and approved by th« 
 Duke of Wellington, at a cost of about $25,000,000. The guard rooms are 
 located in the Dalhousie gate, the barracks are casemated and many of the 
 other buildings are considered bomb-proof. The details of the alleged private 
 underground passages communicating with certain localities without the fortress* 
 are of course secrets that the militarv auth )ritlcs keep to themselves. M the 
 easterly end of the officers' quarters, a substantial row of stone buildings over- 
 looking the river, are the vice-regal quarters, where the Governor-Cieneral of 
 Canada and his family reside during the latter part of the summer season in 
 each year. In the centre of the square, tourists are shown a small brass cannon, 
 captured by the British at Bunker's Hill. 
 
 I think it was Joaquin Miller, who when shown this formidable piece of 
 ordnance, said to his guide, " well you've got the cannon, but we've got 
 
 ~i 
 
54 
 
 Bunker's Hill." Henry D. Thoreau, who visited Quebec in 1850, says of the 
 Citadel : — " Such strujtures carry us back to the middle ages. . . .The sentinel 
 with his musket, beside a man with his umbrella is spectral. ... I should as soon 
 expect to find the sentinels still relieving one another on the walls of Nineveh. 
 
 What a tr()ubles>);iie thing a wall is ! I thought it was t ) defend me, and 
 not I it."(1) 
 
 The noon-gun on the Citadel still marks the meridian time as it did on the 
 occasion of Th)re.iu's visit. He described it as "answering the purpose of a 
 dinner horn." Tiic fortifications are, as Thoreau, says, omnipresent. No 
 matter from what point you look towards Quebec for eight or ten miles away, 
 they are there still with their geometry against the sky. Nobody should mi=s 
 the famous view of the river and the surrounding country from the King's 
 Bastion, already referred to. Here is erected the flag staff from which waves 
 the emblem of Britain's sovereignty in these parts. It was by means of the 
 halyard of this fi ig staff that the American sympathizers, (ieneral Thaller and 
 Colonel Dodge, in October 1838, made their escape from the Citadel, where 
 they were prisoners. They had previously drugged the sentry, and contrived 
 to get safely out of the city, despite the precaution of the commandant, Sir James 
 McDonald, a Waterloo veteran. 
 
 ILiterar^ anb Ibietorical Society. 
 
 I UEHEC is a storehouse of history, but its sanctum sanctorum is the 
 Literary and Historical Society, whose quarters are in the 
 Morrin College, on the corner of Ste. Anne and St. Stanislas streets. It was 
 established as far back as 1824 by the Earl of Dalhousie, then Governor-General 
 of Canada, and through his influence a Roy"' Charter was obtained for it. The 
 scope of the society's operations is widespread, its collection of manuscripts 
 and rare historical documents, printed and otherwise, is extensive and valuable, 
 and the library and reading room are exceedingly good, and serve their purpose 
 admirably. Such students of history as Francis Parkman, General Rogers, 
 Ben : Perley-Poore, General James (irant Wilson, Mr. Edward Slafter and 
 other men of mark have made frequent use of its collections of paoers, and it 
 stands to-day, as one of the foremost bodies of the kind on the Continent. Its 
 president, Dr. Geo. Stewart, F\R.S.C., F'.R.G.S., is ever ready to show anv 
 attention and courtesy that may be in his power to people of literary tastes 
 visiting Quebec. Morrin College is called after Dr. Morrin, its founder, has two 
 faculties, arts and divinity, and is afiiliated with McGill University, Montreal. 
 The building was used as a jail until June 1867. In April 1827 one Ducharme 
 was hanged here for sheep stealing. The last execution at the old jail dates 
 back more than thirty years, the condemned, who was one Meehan from 
 
 (1). A Yankee in CAnada. Chapter IV. 
 
PKESCOIl' GATE (Outside) iix 1W)4. 
 
 — THE — 
 
 Citadel (5ites. 
 
 'TIS*. .«^ --'-r 
 
56 
 
 Vi 
 
 It 
 
 ! 
 
 ■(';■ 
 
 
 Valcartier, having been convicted of the murder of a neighbor, named Pearl in 
 a street squabble. 
 
 Churcbea. 
 
 JN close proximity to Morrin College, are the Methodist church and St. 
 Andrews (Presbyterian). The Baptist church is a little below and 
 inside of St. Johns gate, and Chalmer's (Presbyterian) is a little above 
 the east of the Esplanade, on the upper part of St. Ursule. St. Patrick's, the 
 parish church of the Irish Roman Catholics of Quebec, situated on McMahon 
 street, close to both Palace and St. John streets, has one of the handsomest 
 interiors in the city, its decorations being exceedingly beautiful. On St. John 
 street, outside the gate, is St. Matthews (Anglican), an exceedingly pretty 
 structure both within and without, and possessing a new peal of bells. It has 
 a surpliced choir and by far the richest, most attractive and most ornate service 
 of any proteslant church in Quebec. There are also on this street a small 
 French Protestant church, and the large new church of St. Jean Haptiste to 
 replace that destroyed by fire a few years ago. The remaining city churches 
 are not of much interest to tourists, if we except the Basilica and English 
 Cathedral, which have already been described at considerable length. 
 
 (The 
 
 Zbc parliament 1bou0c. 
 
 HE Parliament House and Departmental Buildings, situated immediately 
 outside of St. Louis gate on St. Louis street, or as it is here called, — the 
 '^ Grande .-Mlde, are amongst the finest public edifices in Canada. Designed 
 by Mr. E. E. Tache of Quebec, their construction was commenced in 1878 and 
 completed in 1887. The different varieties of stones employed in their erection 
 were all quarried in the Province of Quebec. The buildings form a perfect 
 square, each side of which is 300 feet in length, and are four stories in height 
 with mansards, and towers at each corner. From the main tower facing the 
 city, the view of Quebec and surn^unding country is unrivalled. The interior 
 is well worthy of inspection, especially the handsomely tiled main corridors, and 
 the richly furnished chambers of the Legislative Council and Legislative 
 Assembly. The bronze Indian group in front of the main entrance to Parlia- 
 ment House is by Hebert, the Canadian sculptor now residing in Paris, in 
 which city it was much admired for its boldness of conception and artistic design 
 and execution. Heroic statuary of the principal actors in Canadian history is 
 to find a lodgment in the various recesses in the front facade of the Parliament 
 House, that of Count Frontenac being already in position. This block of 
 provincial buildings has already cost between $1,500,000 and $2,000,000. It 
 contains an excellent library, and in its vaults may be seen in excellent condition, 
 all, or nearly all, the original archixes of New France, before the Conquest by 
 Great Britain in 1760. In these buildings, there was held in September 1890, 
 
57 
 
 the ninth annual meeting of the American Forestery Association, on which 
 occasion two hickory trees sent from The Hermitage, (icneral Am'rew 
 Jackson's old home in Tennessee, were planted where they may now be seen 
 on the Grande Allee, or south side of the buildings. The venerable chief Sioui 
 of the once powerful Hurons, accompanied by his son, both in full Indian dress 
 visited the association, and addressed the members, in French, in the following 
 emotional language : — 
 
 " We are the children of the forest, come to welcome the friends o"" the 
 forest. 1 wish you for my people joy and success in your good work. When 
 I was a child I lived in the forest ; I wish to die there. We are few in number ; 
 we are passing away with our forest homes. Protect us, and you will have the 
 prayers of the Hurons, and the gratitude of their hearts. Farewell I " 
 
 Zbc Brill 1bnll anb the i5ran^cBllcc H)nvc. 
 
 V^j, HAT large and very handsome structure with a decidedly military ap- 
 I pearance, on the opposite side of the road from the Parliament House, 
 and a few hundred feet further away from the city, is the new Drill Hall> 
 erected jointly by the Federal government and city corporation, for the use of 
 local military organizations. The main road here, though really a continuation 
 of St. Louis street, preserves its old French name of drande Allee. It was 
 widened and newly paved in blocks in 1888-89. 
 
 The drive out by this road and in by the .Ste. Foye, is one of the most 
 beautiful and most deservedly popular in the vicinity of Quebec. Upon the 
 Grande Allee, are the prettiest and most modern of Quebec's town residences^ 
 while after passing the toll gate and the Plains of Abraham, the tourist obtains 
 glimpses of the country seats of our leading merchants, and splendid panoramic 
 views of the stately St. Lawrence on the one side, on the other of the fertile 
 valley of the vSt. Charles, with its background of blue Laurentian mountains, on 
 the gentle ascents of which stand out the pretty French Canadian villages of 
 Charlesbourg and Lorette. 
 
 The famous Martello towers are seen before leaving the city, but a lietter 
 view of these and also of the famous battlefield, which decided the fate (;f half 
 a continent and upon which fell Wolfe and Montcalm, b:)th mortally woundedj 
 may be hatl by taking a morning stroll, on foot, along the beautiful Cove lields 
 at the brink of the cliffs overlooking the magnificent St. Lawrence. 
 
 Hut let us for the present continue our drive. Less than two miles from 
 the city we pass Spencer Wood, the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor 
 of the Province of Quebec, and formerly that of the ( '.overnor-General of Canada. 
 Its present occupant, the Hon. A. R. .Angers, is one of the most popular Governors 
 Quebec has ever had. 
 
 He has been both Judge and leader of the provincial government, and is a 
 well-known patron of literature and the arts. The residence is approached by a 
 
58 
 
 
 lengthy drive through a forest avenue, reminding one of the estate of an 
 English nobleman. The beauty of its situation, overlooking the St. Lawrence 
 and the opposite shore, and affijrding a splendid view of Cape Diamond and 
 the Citadel of Quebec, might well be deemed unapproachable, did not the 
 environs of the city present so many scenes of great and surpassing loveliness. 
 Royalty, in the person of the Prince of Wales, the Duke of Edinburgh, the 
 Duke and Duchess of Connauglit, the late Duke of Albany, and the Princess 
 Louise has frequently been entertained at Spencer Wood, of which grateful 
 retreat Lord Elgin used to say that there he not only loved to live, but would 
 like to rest his bone;?. Adjoining the gubernatorial abode is the picturesque 
 and elegant estate o( J. M. Le Moine, F.R.S.C., the historian of Quebec. 
 
 Ulllolfc'^ flDonument anb the JMaina of Hbrabanu 
 
 ^ \ S aheady indicated, a pleasant walk of about a mile may be had from 
 G7^ the Chateau St. Louis Hotel to the IMains of Abraham, over what is 
 *^^ ^^ known as the Cove Field. This is public property and intersected 
 by numerous footways. The tourist takes to the field, on the south side of the 
 road, between St. Louis gate and the first building outside of it, which is the 
 new Skating Rink. Reaching the height of land a few hundred feet from the 
 road, the pedestrian finds himself on the classic ground which intervenes between 
 the Citadel and the Plains, while the view of the St. Lawrence at his feet, and 
 the picturesque scenery of the other shore more than repay him for the visit. 
 That broken ground and those artificial mounds are remnants of the old French 
 earthworks. Continuing along the summit of the cliffs that overlook the river, 
 we reach the Martello towers, which were built as outposts of the Citadel 
 fortifications, some seventy years ago. 
 
 In the vicinity of these towers occured some of the heaviest fighting towards 
 the end of the famous battle of the 13th Septeml^er 1759, when the advance line 
 of the British army followed up the advantage they had gained shortly after 
 the striking down of Wolfe by a French bullet. The Plains of Abraham, 
 properly so called at the present time, stretch away from near the St. Louis toll 
 gate, westward, upon the south side of the road, and extend from the highway 
 to the brink of the steep precipice overhanging the river. 
 
 The battlefield is government property, but is at present rented as a pastu- 
 rage for the cattle of city milkmen. Occasionally there is horseracing here 
 under the management of the Quebec Turf Club. 
 
 At the western extremity of the enclosure is Marchmount, the property 
 of Thos. Beckett, Esq., and just beyond is Wolfe's field, the splendid estate of 
 the Hon. E. J. Price, head of one of the leading firms in the English and 
 Canadian lumber trade. It is not in name alone associated with the hero of 
 Quebec. On the river side of this property, beneath the cliff, is Wolfe's Cove, 
 the landing place of the British hero of 1759, and the steep and narrow path is 
 
of an 
 ,rence 
 id and 
 ot the 
 liness. 
 h, the 
 rincess 
 rateful 
 would 
 ireique 
 
 nn. , 
 
 id from 
 what is 
 irsected 
 ic of the 
 :h is the 
 "rom the 
 between 
 feet, and 
 the visit. 
 
 French 
 \c river, 
 
 Citadel 
 
 towards 
 ance Une 
 rtly after 
 "Abraham, 
 Louis toll 
 
 highway 
 
 s a pastu- 
 cing here 
 
 property 
 1 estate of 
 
 lish and 
 he hero of 
 Ife's Cove, 
 ow path is 
 
 WOLFE'S MONUMENT. 
 
fiO 
 
 !-»%«? 
 
 ,i' 
 
 li 
 
 still pointed out upon the face of the rocky precipice, where ricnera! Wolfe, 
 under cover of the darkness of a September nij^ht, led his devoted army to the 
 scene of his heroic death and victory. 
 
 It is quite impossible, within the compass of so diminutive a work as this, 
 to describe the various incidents of that momentous rtj^ht. Its leading events 
 are fresh in the mind of every school boy, and LeMoine d) has preserved in 
 several of his sketches, a n'-'^ber of interesting details of the great struggle, 
 not found in most of the histories of the period. We have, too, froin the 
 artistic pen of Francis Farkman, an elaborate description and plan of the 
 Battle of the Plains, in his books on "Montcalm and Wolfe," and on "Montcalm 
 and the Fall of New France." 
 
 One of the most interesting features to the tourist, of this historic locality, 
 is undoubtedly the monument to the memory of the victorious (ieneral, erected 
 on the exact spot where " Wolfe died victorious." That massive building a 
 few feet distant, which crowns yonder knoll, Ts the district prison, — "a hideous 
 jail," says Joaquin Miller, "surmounting almost the very spot where the immortal 
 Wolfe fell and died." It was during the British assault upon the French position 
 on this rising ground, that General Wolfe received his death wound. He lived 
 long enough to learn that the French army was put to flight, and then expressed 
 his readiness to die. The Highlanders closely pursued the fleeing enemy and 
 many of them were butchered before they reached the bridge of boats over the 
 St. Charles, towards which they rushed by way of what is now St. Johns 
 suburbs, Ste. (Genevieve hill and St. Rochs. The Plains of Abraham were so 
 called after one Abraham Martin, who was pilot for the King of France in the 
 St. Lawrence, and who acquired this property some two and a half centuries 
 ago. 
 
 Lord Wolseley, who, in his capacity of Ranger of Greenwich Park, is an 
 attendant at the old parish church of St. Alphege, has, it is announced, expressed 
 his surprise that the remains of General James Wolfe, the hero of Quebec, 
 should lie in the vaults of the church, beneath " the Royal pew " officially 
 occupied by the ranger — without a memorial to mark their existence. To the 
 public at large the grandiose monumeat to Wolfe's memory in Westminster 
 Abbey, Wilton's correctly classical nude figure of the hero, with its accom- 
 panying allegorical bas relief representing the chief incidents of the famous St. 
 Lawrence campaign, the Heights of Abraham, the faithful Highland sergeant, 
 the wounded warrior, and the oak decorated with its trophy of tomahawks, has 
 long given the impression that the ashes of Wolfe repose in the Abbey. Doubt- 
 less, had the nation's wishes been consulted, the remains of the hero of Quebec 
 would have been laid to rest in the natiovuil Walhalla. But at his mother's 
 earnest prayer, the body of the warrior, borne back to his native land, was 
 
 (1). See "Fraser's Highlanders before Quebec in 1759," page 141 of "Maple Leaves," 
 • dition of 1873. 
 
 wr 
 se\ 
 wi' 
 St. 
 he; 
 firs 
 
 St. 
 the 
 Da 
 
 Qu< 
 gift 
 Wi 
 aim 
 is d 
 
I Wolfe, 
 y to the 
 
 ; as this, 
 ; events 
 ,erved in 
 struggle, 
 from the 
 n of the 
 IontcahT\ 
 
 : locality, 
 1, erected 
 uilcling a 
 a hideous 
 immortal 
 h position 
 
 He lived 
 expressed 
 nemy and 
 s over the 
 St. Johns 
 were so 
 nee in the 
 
 centuries 
 
 ark, is an 
 expressed 
 )f Quebec, 
 " officially 
 To the 
 estminster 
 its accom- 
 famous St. 
 d sergeant, 
 hawks, has 
 Doubt- 
 of Quebec 
 is mother's 
 e land, was 
 
 y- 
 
 iple Leaves, 
 
 >» 
 
 fil 
 
 nterred in the family vault in thepirish liurch of Greenwich, where little James 
 Wolfe was educated, and where his father occupied the mansion still standing 
 On the Blackheath outskirts of the park in the shady pathway, known as 
 Chesterfield Walk, not far from the Ranger's Lodge, a house in after years 
 tenanted by the late Lord Lyttleton. 
 
 Amongst those who rendered signal service to the forces under Wolfe was 
 the famous navigator James Cook, who conducted the boats to the attack at 
 Montmorency, and managed as well the disembarkation at the heights of 
 Abiaham. 
 
 Cemeteries. 
 
 1 
 
 WO of the prettiest cemeteries that it is possible to see, are within a 
 couple of miles of Quebec. The tourist passes both Woodfield, the 
 Irish Catholic cemetery and Mount Hcrmon, the I'rotcstant burying groundi 
 when driving out the St. Louis road. Hoth of these should be visited. They 
 command picturesque views of the St. Lawrence and surrounding country. In 
 one grave in the Mount Hermon cemetery, are interred the bodies of some 200 
 Scotch immigrants who lost their lives in the burning ot the river steamer 
 " Montreal," on the 26th of June 1857, at Cape Rouge, a few miles above the 
 cemetery, while on their way from Quebec to Montreal. 
 
 Another famous grave in this beautiful home of the dead, is thus described 
 by General Jas. Grant Wilson, of New York, in the " New York Genealogical 
 and Biographical Society Record " : — 
 
 "John Wilson, perhaps the best singer of Scottish songs of his own age, or 
 of any age, and in the Judgment of Dr. Robt. Chambers, of Edinburgh, unsur- 
 passed in the beauty and taste with which he rendered the music of his native 
 Caledonia, visited the United States and Canada in 1849, accompanied by his 
 daughter, who assisted him in the very successful series of entertainments 
 which he gave, consisting of Scottish songs and recitations. He had given 
 several concerts in St. George's Hall, Quebec, and was announced for " A nicht 
 wi' Burns," before his departure. On Saturday, July 7, while fishing in Lake 
 St. Joseph, he was taken ill, it was supposed from exposure to the excessive 
 heat, and died at an early hour on the following Monday morning, one of the 
 first victims to the cholera, which was so fatal in Canada during that summer. 
 
 He was buried in Mount Hermon cemetery, on the banks of the beautiful 
 St. Lawrence, some two miles south of the Plains of Abraham, where Wolfe won 
 the immortal victory which changed the destiny of Canada. A few years ago 
 David Kennedy, another Scottish singer, intrusted to Dr. George Stewart, of 
 Quebec, the sum of ^10 to be devoted to forever caring for the grave of the 
 gifted and amiable John Wilson. His last letter addressed to his poet friend, 
 William Wilson, ^( Fuughkeepsie, whose rending of Jacobite songs and ballads 
 almost equalled the professional singer's, is now in the writer's possession. It 
 is dated July 7, and announces his anticipated meeting with his correspondent 
 
I 
 
 (12 
 
 within a few weeks. Three years after Wilson's gre.itly regretted death, a 
 number of his countrymen of (^)iicbec erected over his grave a noble column 
 surmounted by an urn, with appropriate drapery. The monument bears the 
 following inscription : 
 
 Sacred to the memory of 
 
 John Wilson, 
 
 The Scottish Vocalist, 
 
 Celebrated for the excellent taste, 
 
 Feeling, and execution, 
 
 With which he sang the airs 
 
 Of his native Caledonia. 
 
 He was an amiable and unassuming man. 
 
 Died at Quebec, July, 1849. 
 
 I 
 
 Erected by some of his friends and 
 Admirers in Canada, 1852. 
 
 Shelley, whose ashes lie under Italian skies, nvar those of Keats, said : 
 'That it would almost make one in love with death to be buried in so sweet a 
 spot.' The same could be said of Wilson's Canadian resting place ; and as we 
 gathered from his grave a few scarlet autumn leaves, a feathered songster was 
 singing from the topmost branch of a brilliant maple, with a music sweeter 
 than his own silvery tenor. Although far away from his dearly-loved * North 
 Countrie,' he is surrounded by men of his own race, on whose tomb-stones may 
 be seen Mackenzie and Macdougall, Campbell and Crant, P>aser and Forsyth, 
 Ross, Turnbull, and other ancient Scottish names, many, if not most of them, 
 the sons and grandsons of the six hundred and sixty-two gallant fellows of 
 Eraser's Seventy-eighth Highlanders, who followed Wolfe up the steep and 
 narrow escalade to the field where his untunely fate and that of his chivalric 
 foe Montcalm, one hundred and thirty-one years ago this very day, so well 
 illustrated (iray's familiar line that, 
 
 ' The paths of glory lead but to the grave.' " 
 
 In the old city cemetery on St. John .St., surrounding St. Matthews church, 
 and long since closed against further interments, there is to be seen the neglected 
 grave of Major Thomas Scott, a brother of the great novelist and late paymaster 
 in H.M. 70th regiment, who died in Quebec in 1823. It is marked by a very 
 simple stone. It was to Major Scott, that Edinburgh Society attributed the 
 earlier Waverley novels, an idea which Sir Walter himself was not unwilling 
 to foster. He suggested to his brother that he should write a novel dealing 
 with the incidents of Quebec Society and the vicissitudes of Canadian life ; 
 nothing however came of the suggestion. 
 
:leath, a 
 column^ 
 )cars the 
 
 ;ats, said : 
 so sweet a 
 and as we 
 igster was 
 ic sweeter 
 ed ' North 
 tones may 
 d Forsyth, 
 t of them, 
 fellows of 
 steep and 
 s chivalric 
 uy, so well 
 
 ws church, 
 J iieglected 
 paymaster 
 d by a very 
 ributed the 
 )t unwilling 
 ivel dealing 
 ladian life ; 
 
 M 
 
 w 
 
 H 
 
 CO 
 
 w 
 
 s 
 
64 
 
 
 ill 
 
 Near the head of de Salaberry street, is the old cholera burying ground. 
 "Asiatic cholera visited Quebec in 1832, 1834, 1849, 185 1, 1852 and 1854, causing 
 in these years the deaths of 8368 victims. 
 
 The French Canadians have very beautiful cemeteries, one at Belmont, 
 three miles from the city on the St. P^oye road, and others on the little river 
 road near the banks of the St. Charles. 
 
 Zbc St. fo^c riDouumcnt 
 
 N the way into the city from Belmont, the tourist passes the elegant 
 monument to the memory of the brave English and French soldiers 
 who fell in the battle of the second Plains of Abraham in 1760, in which 
 the advantage was on the side of the French. 
 
 It consists of a column of bronzed metal standing on a stone base, and 
 surmounted by a bronze statue of Bellona, presented by Prince Napoleon. 
 The names of the competing Generals Levis and Murray, are borne upon the 
 face of the base. On and around the very spot upon which it stands, the battle 
 Was fought in which Levis attempted to reconquer the city, and actually 
 succeeded in defeating the troops of General Murray, although he could not force 
 the English General to capitulate, nor yet take possession of the city. 
 
 Zbc Brivc around Siucbec 
 
 ^i/HE environs of Quebec abound in the most delightful scenery, and the 
 ^ roads in the vicinity of the city are amongst the finest upon the continent. 
 The drives are all comparatively short, averaging about nine or ten miles, 
 and over such good roads that one never feels tired. The scenery all along the 
 road is pretty and interesting, and full of graceful variety. Among the principal 
 drives may be mentioned the drive to Montmorenci Falls, and the Natural 
 Steps,-— the latter no one should miss on any account, — the F'alls of Lorette, the 
 Falls of Ste. Anne and the Chaudiere Falls. Few persons ever go to see the 
 Fortifications at Levis, and yet they are well worthy of a visit. Then there is 
 the old ruin of Chateau Bigot, the haunt ofone of the mostnotoriousof scoundrels, 
 as well as the worst of Intendants. Chateau Richer is on the way to Ste. Anne's 
 and though the distance is a trifle, the road goes through such a lovely section 
 of country that one does not mind the length much. Lovers of lake scenery 
 cannot do better than spend a few hours at the beautiful lakes of St. Charles 
 and Beauport. - , 
 
 i 
 
 L 
 
 Ifort 3acquc6 (Earttcr. 
 
 ESS than a mile from the city as the tourist drives in the direction of Lake 
 Beauport, Lake St. Charles or Chateau Bigot, there is passed on 
 
 the left hand side of the Charlesbourg road, the massive stone monument 
 
 n< 
 
65 
 
 ground, 
 causing 
 
 ielmont, 
 tie river 
 
 ; elegant 
 
 soldiers 
 
 in which 
 
 )ase, and 
 Napoleon, 
 upon the 
 the battle 
 [ actually 
 I not force 
 
 and the 
 
 continent. 
 
 ten miles, 
 
 along the 
 
 e principal 
 
 Natural 
 orette, the 
 to see the 
 1 there is 
 coundrels, 
 >te. Anne's 
 ely section 
 ce scenery 
 St. Charles 
 
 erected in 1888, at the confluence of the little river Lairet with the St. Charles, 
 where Jacques Cartier spent the winters of 1535-36, with the crews of his little 
 ships, the Grande Hermine and the Petite Hermine, and erected his first fort, 
 immediately opposite the Indian encampment of Stadacona, of which Uonacona 
 was the chief. On the 3rd of May 1536, three days before his return to France, 
 Cartier erected a large cross, 35 feet high, at this place. The cross bore the 
 arms of the King of France and the inscription : 
 
 " FRANCISCUi PRIMUS DEI GRATIA FRANCORUM REX REGNAT." 
 
 A substantial cross bearing a similar inscription was erected upon the same 
 site in 1888. Ninety years after Cartier spent his first winter here, the scene 
 of the earliest building erected in Canada by Europeans became that of the 
 first Jesuit monastery in New France. 
 
 From this establishment went forth the first heroes of the Jesuit misioners 
 in Canada, — the disco\ erers of the interior of half a continent, many of whom 
 sealed their faith with their blood, after enduring the most frightful sufferings 
 in their endeavor to win over the savage Indian hordes of Canada at once to 
 Heaven and to France. 
 
 Chateau 1&\Q0t anb Cbaiicabourg, 
 
 ^\ HREE miles north of the Fort Jacques Cartier, the picturesque village of 
 «J Charlcsbourg, with its handsome church is seen, perched upon the slope 
 of a hill and commanding a splendid view of the city of Quebec and its imme- 
 diate surroundings. A drive of four miles to the east brings the tourist to the 
 ruins of the Chateau Bigot, Heamanoir, sometimes also called the Hermitage. 
 These ruins give I ut a faint idea of the grandeur, extent and secret passages 
 of the original building, which was erected by the Intendant Bigot, whose 
 profligacy and extravagance were unlimited, and whose rapacity supplied his 
 requirements. Hither with compani«)ns as graceless as himself, he was wont to 
 resort, to indulge in every excess of dissipation, and here was enacted the 
 tragedy already referred to, in connection with the Golden Dog, which resulted 
 in the death of Caroline, the unhappy Algonquin maid, and forms one of the 
 leading features of Kirby's entrancing historical romance — " Le Chien d'Or." 
 
 From the hill in rear of these ruins spreads out a panorama of incompa- 
 rable beauty. 
 
 The main road that passes through Charlcsbourg leads on to 
 
 m of Lake 
 passed on 
 monument 
 
 Xahca ffieauport anb St. Cbaiice. 
 
 >^ HESE charming lakes should he seen by every visitor to Quebec, from 
 cJ which they arc only distant about twelve miles. 
 
 The prettiest is Lake Beauport, but both are bcwitchingly beautiful. They 
 nestle in recesses o'' the Laurentian Mountains, Lake Beaupoit being hemmed 
 
66 
 
 in by them, right to the waters edge. It resembles some of the smaller of the 
 Swiss lakes, and is considered to fully equal them in beauty. The speckled 
 trout with which its water's teem are noted for the brilliant lustre of their 
 variegated hues. They afford excellent sport to the angler. So do those of 
 Lake St. Charles, which is a splendid sheet of water, six miles in length. Lake 
 St. Charles is the source of the river of that name and furnishes the city of 
 Quebec, with its supply of fresh water. In the country which surrounds these 
 lakes and along the road that leads to them, the air is fragrant with the gummy 
 odor of the pine scented woods. 
 
 f 
 
 •■^--^^L- 
 
 li 
 
 cnr E f? 
 
 Zbc 3fall6 of flDontmorcnct* 
 
 'J 
 
 far-famed Falls of Montmorenci, — nearly a hundred feet higher than 
 those of Niagara — are themselves well worth a visit to Quebec to see. 
 Montmorenci is eight miles distant from Quebec. It may be reached either 
 by the Quebec, Montmorenci & Charlevoix railroad, or by a pleasant drive over 
 an excellent macadamised road, from which a splendid view of the river and 
 surrounding country may be had. The cataract is one of the chief natural 
 attractions in the vicinity of Quebec, the water in its perpendicular fall for the 
 whole 250 feet of its leap over the face of the rock being broken up into white 
 and fleecy foam. Its roar is tremendous and can sometimes be heard for miles 
 away. The spray that rises from it, would soon drench to the skin anybody 
 venturing too near it. In the winter, portions of the spray freeze as thev rise, 
 and form an ice cone in the shape of a sugar loaf, which in some seasons 
 exceeds 120 feet in height. Quebecers then form parties for sliding down the 
 cone in toboggans, — an exciting and exhilarating sport. The falls may best be 
 viewed from below, and the tiresome descent to their foot, and yet more tiresome 
 climb back again, up a staircase containing nearly 400 steps, may be avoided 
 by taking the train from Quebec to Montmorenci, the railway passing below 
 and close to the falls. This view may also be had when taking the trip to La 
 Bonne Ste. Anne described below. The drive along the highway from Quebec 
 to Montmorenci should be taken on another day. The tourist will then take in 
 the splendid scenery along the way, including views of the St. Lawrence and 
 Isle of Orleans, of Beauport Lunatic Asylum and its magnificent grounds, and of 
 the ruins of the old Beauport manor house that served as the headquarters of 
 Montcalm's army in 1759; for before effecting a landing above Quebec, C^eneral 
 Wolfe disembarked his troops on the eastern side of the Montmorenci river, and 
 vainly endeavored todisloge the French from their position, being compelled to 
 retire however with several killed and wounded. There is also a splendid view 
 of the river, island and city from the head of the falls, to which the tourist can 
 drive, while near by is seen the manor of the Hall family, which ninety years 
 ago was the country residence in Canada of the late Duke of Kent, father of 
 Queen Victoria. 
 
:r of the 
 ipcckled 
 of their 
 those of 
 1. Lake 
 e city of 
 ids these 
 ; guniniy 
 
 rher than 
 ;c to see. 
 led either 
 irive over 
 liver and 
 ef natural 
 \\\ for the 
 into white 
 I for miles 
 anybody 
 thev rise, 
 e seasons 
 down the 
 ay best be 
 e tiresome 
 je avoided 
 sing below 
 trip to La 
 im Quebec 
 len take in 
 rence and 
 kIs, and v)f 
 luarters of 
 c, General 
 river, and 
 impelled to 
 endid view 
 tourist can 
 nety years 
 It, father of 
 
 
 MONTMORENCY FALLS FROM STEPS. 
 
68 
 
 There was formerly a suspension bridge over the river at the very brink of 
 the falls, but nearly half a centuiy ago, it broke away from its mooring, and 
 was swept over the cataract, carrying with it an unfortunate farmer and his 
 family with their vehicle. The stone piers of this bridge still remain. The 
 bodies of the poor people were never recovered, all objects passing over the falls 
 disappeared in a subterranean cavity worn by the constant dripping of the water 
 for thousands of years. Several suicides have occurred here. 
 
 Nobody should miss seeing the Natural Steps, which are about a mile 
 above the falls. These are considered by some people to be the grandest 
 feature of Montmorenci. Here the wild river is wildly magnificent. It dashes 
 with the velocity of a mill-race through narrow passes hedged in by precipitous 
 walks of adamantine rock, and anon leaps heedlessly over natural barriers^ 
 forming in succession furious cascades and seething pools. The peculiar 
 formation of the rocky banks has given them the title of the Natural Steps. 
 
 They are the wonder and admiration of all who see them. 
 
 OlTi 
 
 X'anfle (Barbien an& Cbateau IRicber. 
 
 ^ HE pretty French Canadian riverside parishes of L'Ange Gardien and 
 Chateau Richer, which are situated in the above order immediately east 
 of Montmorenci, may be reached either by turnpike road or railway. Excellent 
 snipe shooting is to be had upon their be tches 
 
 The village of L'Ange (iardien, was destroyed by Wolfe's soldiery after 
 the battle of Heauport in 1759. Excellent fishing is to be had in ihe streams 
 that flow down to the river through these parishes. Three or f )ur miles l^elow 
 Chateau Richer, are the beautiful falls called Sault k la Puce. 
 
 i 
 
 |..i:,l 
 
 Xa Bonne Stc. Hnne. 
 
 ^ /\ T a distance of twenty miles from Quebec, is the far-famed shrine of 
 ^^*r\ Ste. Anne de Beaupre, the parish of this name adjoining that of 
 "^^"^ ^^ Chateau Richef. Since the year 1650, pious Canadians have 
 resorted to thii place from all parts of the country, and by thousands annually 
 seeking to be cured of the various ills that flesh is heir to. It is claimed that 
 great miracles are wrought here, even as of olden times, and that the sick are 
 healed, the blind are made to see, the deaf tt) hear, the lame to walk with ease, 
 and those nigh to death have strength and vigor come back to them, and that, 
 too, suddenly, and through the intercession of that once good woman and now 
 pure soul, the good Ste. Anne, the Virgin Mary's mother, one of whose finger 
 joint bones is still shown and venerat*'d in the church of the parish in a gla»s 
 case. The sanctity of devotion and the marvels of the miraculous permeate the 
 whole atmosphere of Ste. Anne de Beaupre. 
 
 The handsome new church was some few years ago raised by Pope- Pius IX 
 
 pn 
 th» 
 
 intt 
 
brink of 
 ing, and 
 ■ and his 
 tin. The 
 r the falls 
 the water 
 
 ut a mile 
 
 grandest 
 
 It dashes 
 
 recipitous 
 
 I barriers, 
 
 ; peculiar 
 
 Steps. 
 
 rdien and 
 
 liately east 
 
 Excellent 
 
 Idiery after 
 he streams 
 liles I'clow 
 
 =d shrine of 
 ing that of 
 dians have 
 Is annually 
 aimed that 
 he sick are 
 k with ease, 
 n, and that, 
 an and now 
 hose finger 
 1 in a gla-s 
 lermeate the 
 
 opePii!^ IX 
 
 69 
 
 to the dignity of a basilica, and acting under the authority of Pope Leo XIII, 
 Cardinal Taschereau in 1878 solemnly crowned the statue of the saint in her 
 own sanctuary, amid great rejoicings. The very railroad that carries the 
 pilgrims from Quebec to Ste. Anne, has been solemnly consecrated and blessed 
 by the Cardinal, as well as the cars by which they travel and the locomotives 
 that draw them. The basilica is one of the finest churches in the Province. 
 It is 152 feet in length and 64 wide, and cost $200,000. The decorative paint- 
 ings upon its walls and in its numerous lateral chapels are exceedingly interesting 
 and sometimes quite arti-.tic. Touristsand artists have come from long di*tances 
 to visit them. But the chief interest attaches to the huge tiers of crutches and 
 trusses, and sticks and splints, piled upeleven'stories high, which have been left 
 here by their former owners, whom the miraculous intervention of the Canadian 
 thaumaturge relieved from further necessity for them. The frequency of these 
 m'racles, which are oft-times reported daily during the pilgrimage season, has 
 made the Canadian Loretto as celebrated on the American continent as Notre 
 Dame de Lourdes is in Europe. The shrine is visited by hundreds and thou- 
 sands of pilgrims every sunmier from all parts of the United States, and for 
 their accommodation, the Redemptorist Fathers in charge of the church deliver 
 their sermons in (ierman, Italian, Dutch, Flemish and Spanish, as well as in 
 English and French. 
 
 The wonders wrought here date from the earliest period of the colony's 
 existence. In the first par: of the seventeenth century, some Breton fishermen 
 overtaken by a fearful storm, vowed to Ste. Anne to erect a sanctuary in her 
 honor, if she would deign to save them from the terror of the sea. They landed 
 safely upon the north bank of the St. Lawrence, and redeemed their obligations 
 by building a small wooden chapel, which gave its name to the parish and was 
 the scene of numerous miracles. It was replaced by a larger structure in 1660, 
 which, subsequently rebuilt and ^enlarged, finally gave way to the present 
 magnificent church. The Basilica contains not only the relic of Ste. Anne 
 already referred to, but a portion of the rock from the grotto in which the Virgin 
 Mary was born, a handsome chasuble of gold embroidery, presented by Queen 
 Anne of Austria, mother of Louis XIV and worked largely with her own hands, 
 and a magnificent painting of Ste. Anne and the Virgin Mary, by Lebrun, 
 presented by the Viceroy Tracy in 1666, and which is to be seen hanging over 
 the main altar. 
 
 Mr. W. H. H. Murray thus refers to the miracles attributed here to La 
 Bonne Ste. Anne : 
 
 " I know nothing about these wonders wrought, mercifuly wrought, for 
 wretched men and women at the shrine yonder, under the Laurentian hills, save 
 what I see and know as the results. I know that there, men and women are 
 healed of their ills, and lacking the use of needed members are made whole again > 
 but by whom they are healed, or by what power or powers, immediate or 
 intermediate, I know not at all, and am not, believe me, even curious to know 
 
^SSt^ 
 
 \t 
 
 70 
 
 Enough for me to know that a fragment of old time Palestine is in Canada : 
 that the sea of Galilee empties one of its ancient springs into the St. Lawrence, 
 and that there is one spot on the American continent where theologians are 
 puzzled, scientists are silenced, and a positive medicine is in f)perati()n that 
 some grasping Yankee cannot patent and monopolize. Had this Canadian 
 Loretto been on the Merrimac, we should have ".Ste. Anne Pills" and " Porous 
 Plasters ;\ la Ste. Anne," hawked over the whole world, and the drace of (iod 
 would have been patented and duly labelled. 
 
 Xorcttc. 
 
 1 
 
 HE tourist in Quebec will not have performed his whole duty, if he fails to 
 take the lovely drive to Lorettc Falls, situate about nine miles away from 
 town. The route lies through a most interesting piece of territory, charming 
 to the eye, and rich in historic association. From the carriage window, or from 
 the heights of the fast-speeding caleche, one may view landscapes and water- 
 scapes of surpassing beauty, while the rival villages of French Lorette and 
 Indian Lorettc atTford the thoughtful observer much food for reflection. The 
 best time to take this delightful drive is in the morning. One may leave the 
 St. Louis Hotel immediately after breakfast, and it will not be long before your 
 driver will be pointing out to you the various features of interest along the way. 
 The roads are always good which lead to famed Lorette, the home of the 
 Christian Hurons, lineal descendants of those ancient warriors, who waged such 
 savage wars with the Iroquois in the time of Frontenac, two hundred years 
 ago. One first catches a glimpse of the French village. It is situated on the 
 highlands, and from its top one gets a fine view all around, the city in the 
 distance looking very striking and bold, and the Parliament buildings standing 
 out grandly against the clear sky. But the driver hurries on to the settlement 
 of the Indians. The residence of the Chief is a point of vantage. It is the 
 correct thing to get out of your carriage and pay your respects to this potentate, 
 and look at his house which is a marvel of cleanliness. He will show his 
 medals, and many cusiosities if you ask to see them. The Lorette chapel, which 
 is over one hundred and fifty years old, is well worth a visit. It is of the same 
 model and of the same dimensions as that of the Santa Casa, from whence the 
 image of the Virgin, — a ccpy of that in the famous sanctuary was sent to the 
 Indians. Charlevoix relates that " nothing is more affecting than to hear them 
 sing in two choirs, men on one side, women on the other, prayers and hymns 
 of the church in their own language." The tourist will find interest in looking 
 at the Indian cottages on the plateau of the falls. These have been laid out, 
 apparently, on no particular design, and a walk over the twenty acres of land 
 which contain them will occupy only a few moments of time. But the falls 
 themselves are the principal attraction of this charming drive. They are very 
 well worth a long journey to see. The spot where the foaming waters come 
 
arr 
 
 , Canada : 
 Lawrence, 
 :)gians are 
 ation that 
 Canadian 
 cl " I'orous 
 ice of ("lod 
 
 f he fails to 
 away from 
 
 charming" 
 )\v, or from 
 and water- 
 orette and 
 tion. The 
 
 leave the 
 jefore your 
 ig the way. 
 ome of the 
 vaged such 
 dred years 
 ited on the 
 city in the 
 ;s Standing 
 
 settlement 
 . It is the 
 > potentate, 
 1 show his 
 apel, which 
 :>f the same 
 whence the 
 sent to the 
 ) hear them 
 and hymns 
 t in looking" 
 n laid out, 
 cres of land 
 Jut the falls 
 ley are very 
 aters come 
 
 ^ "^^ ^^Svverr 
 
 BREAKNECK STEPK, leading from C^amphiin Street to Mountain Hill, Quebec. 
 
72 
 
 tumbling down, over ro:ks and stones, and throuj^h picturesciue g^orges, is 
 certainly wild enough. One can see the cascade as he stands on the little hill, 
 a few feet away from the inn. But to see the falls in all their beauty, the tourist 
 must go down the steps which lead to a ravine. Five minutes walk will bring 
 you to a moss-covered rock, and on this sheltered place y.ju may sit for h-mrs 
 listening to the noisy splash, and watching the dashing waters as they hurry 
 along, foaming and plunging over the stones. Lorette falls differ widely from 
 the cataract of Montmorenci, but they are just as striking in their way. Some 
 think them more beautiful. 
 
 Just above the Indian village is the Chateau d'Eau, where, from a minature 
 lake formed by a dam across the river, two lines of iron pipe, one 30 inches 
 and the other 18 inches in diameter, draw off the water supply, with which 
 they serve the city of Quebec. At this point, boats and canoes may be obtained 
 and the river ascended to its sDurce, — Like St. Charles, 
 
 Cape IRou^e, St. Huouatin anb %n\\c Calvairc, 
 
 f AP Rouge is a delightful spot which is passed on the drive out by St. Louis 
 X»i^ and in by St. Foye road, but is well worthy of a special visit and a 
 drive through the parish, over a pretty stream that here flows into the St. 
 Lawrence. 
 
 Continuing the drive towards St. Augustin, the tourist reaches the pretty 
 lake Calvaire or lake St. Augustin, at a distance of twelve miles from Quebec. 
 The drive to it from Cap Rouge is one of the most beautiful of the many 
 entrancing ones in the district of Quebec, and overlooks the St. Lawrence and 
 the opposite shore fr )m the brink of the lofty precipice. The church of St. 
 Augustin is near by and well worth a visit. There is also a deserted church, 
 built in 1648, now in ruins on the beach, in reference to which is a legend that 
 the devil, in the shape of a horse, assisted in the construction. This horse 
 was continually kept bridled and employed in cnrting stones of immense size, 
 beyond the power of any ordinary hirse t> move, till on^ day a workman 
 ca/elessly took off his bridle to give him a drink, — when he immediately disap- 
 peared in a cloud of burning sulphur. History h is fiiled to record how many 
 drinks the horse's driver had taken that dav. 
 
 JLbe South Sbore. 
 
 ANY and varied are the fittr.ictions of the south shore. From Point 
 Levis, immediately opposite Quebec, may be obtained one of 
 the most imposing views of the city and of Cape Ditmond, and the crossing 
 by ferry is a matter of some three minutes only. Right opposite the ferry 
 landing is the joint depot of the Grand Trunk, Intercoloni d and Quebec Central 
 railways. A drive sh )uld be taken to th** new military f-rts upon the heights 
 
•gfS, IS 
 
 tie hill, 
 tourist 
 1 bring 
 »r h'»urs 
 y hurry 
 •\y from 
 Some 
 
 "I i nature 
 ) inches 
 1 which 
 obtained 
 
 ■5t. Louis 
 sit and a 
 . the St. 
 
 le pretty 
 Quebec, 
 he many 
 ence and 
 ch of St. 
 church, 
 end that 
 is horse 
 nse size, 
 workman 
 ly disap- 
 )\v many 
 
 -^^^'-^'^ 
 
 ~) 
 
 m Point 
 ed one of 
 crossing 
 the ferry 
 c Central 
 e heights 
 
 ^^^--•-'-^^^^ 
 
 
 
 £^.L.^t¥er^ 
 
 OLD BUILljixNuS, POINT LEVIS. 
 
 U 
 
74 
 
 above, ct)nstructed by the Imperial government at a cost of over a million nf 
 (lillars, and on no account should the tourist fail to visit the En},Mneei's Camp 
 at St. Jnse|)h de L('vis, whence a magnificent panorama of river, island and 
 tlie falls «)f Monlmorenci, lies s|)read out before the admirers of Nature's charms. 
 Indian Cove, which lies between the Camp and the riverside, derives its name 
 from the fact that an encampment of Indians was formerly located here. 
 
 Just below the church at .St. Joseph de I evis, which is passed on the way 
 from the Camp to the riverside, the Intercolonial railway crosses the roadway 
 over an iron bridge. Here, in December 1890, a whole train was derailed and 
 thrown comjiletely over the embankment resulting in the death often passengers 
 .md the maining of several others. 
 
 Near by is the government graving dock, a massive piece of masonry 
 which is able to accommodate the largest steamships running to the St. 
 Lawrence, being 484 feet long and ico wide. It well repays a visit, especially 
 when a vessel is docked in it, in which case the visitor may descend into it and 
 walk right under the keel of one of the modern leviathans of the deep. 'loge- 
 ther with the new tidal and other docks at the mouth of the St. Charles, this 
 addition to the facilities for the accommodation of shipping in the port of Quebec, 
 — one of the finest ports in the world, d) has already involved an expenditure of 
 over five millions of dollars. 
 
 li 
 
 Zbc Qccnc of a Iraoic lEyccution. 
 
 -A- T a short distance from the Levis church, where four roads cross, there 
 ■^ \,^ was enacted in 1763 a remarkable tragedy. A woman commonly 
 called La Corriveau, who was credited with having been the accomplice of 
 Angelique de Mcloise in the murder of Bigot's amourcuse, Caroline, the Indian 
 maid, at Beaumanoir,(2) was accused of having murdered at St. V ilier, her 
 husband Dodier, some siy by pouring molten lead into his ear while he slept, 
 but according to De Gaspe,(3) by smashing in his skull with a blunt instrument: 
 after which she is said to have dragged his body to the stable and placed him 
 behind a horse, to convey the impression that the animal had kicked him to 
 death. She was tried by court martial in the Ursuline convent, — then the 
 headquarters of General Murray, — for the colony was at this time under military 
 reign. Sentenced to be first hanged, and then to have her body exposed in chains, 
 she was executed, according to Kirby upon the Levis hill, in full view of the 
 city of Quebec, but it De Gaspe and LeMoine are correct, close to the St. Louis 
 
 (1). "Quebec's docks and tidal basins, when completed, will rank among the most perfect 
 works of the kind in the world."— Dr. Geo. Stewart, F.R.G.S., in the EncyclopaBdia Britan- 
 nioa. See also " The Port of Quebec, — its facilities and prospects," by E. T. D. Chambers, 
 Quebec, 1890. 
 
 (2). Kirby's " Golden Dog, chapter XXXV. 
 
 (3). " Leg Anciens Canadiens," edition of 1877. Vol. 11 page 165. 
 
75 
 
 road or Grande All^o in the city itself, at the then usual place of execution, at 
 what is now known as I'crrault's hill, the hij^hest point of the road, from which 
 the descent is made that leads inunediately to the Plains of Abraham proper. 
 No matter which was her place of execution, her body was for a lonj^ time 
 exposed in an iron cage, made to its shape with arms and legs, and affixed to a 
 pole at the cross roadsjust described,- a warning to evil doers .'ind the terror of 
 the neighboring inhabitants, who i:omi)lained of nocturnal apjiaritions and 
 clanging noises produced of course by the wicked spirit of the dead murderess. 
 Finally, the cage, with its ghastly contents, was interred in a neighboring field, 
 only '.() be exhumed and re-interred in 1H3C, again recovered in 1850, and then 
 sold to a collector of relics, and deposited in a public museum in Boston. 
 
 CbauMcrc fnWe. 
 
 JT is well worth the while to drive from Levis to ChaudiC?re, to see the 
 magnificent falls, though the trip may also be made by steamer or by 
 train. These falls are somewhat similar to those of Lorette, though upon a 
 larger scale, their height being about 130 feet. 
 
 Thoreau relates that he saw here the most brilliant rainbow that he ever 
 imagined : — " not a few faint prismatic colors merely, but a full semi-circle, 
 only four or five rods in diameter, though as wide as usual, so intensely bright 
 as to pain the eye, and apparently as substantial as an arc of stone.''(!) 
 
 Etchemin or New Li\erpool, which is passed on the way from Quebec to 
 Chaudi^re, possesses one of the handsomest churches in Canada. Its frescoes 
 are the admiration of visitors from far and near. 
 
 36lc of ®rlcan6. 
 
 (^-A- .SAIL down the river to this beautiful island is one of the summer 
 '•*-' V*,^ attractions of Quebec. Jacques Cartier called it the Isle of Bacchus 
 from the numerous wild grapes found there. Numbers of Quebecers have 
 summer residences here, and thousands of others escape the heat of many a 
 summer's afternoon, by the trip to the island and back again, with its cool 
 river breezes and delightful scenery. 
 
 Tourists cannot more pleasantly spend one of their afternoons in the 
 vicinity of Quebec, than by taking the steamer for the island immediately after 
 luncheon, returning to the .St. Louis in time for dinner. 
 
 Zbc Saouena^ ant) St. lawrence Tffilaterinfl placea* 
 
 J 
 
 F time permits, the tourist at Quebec, after having taken in all the attrac- 
 tions of the city and immediate vicinity, should not fail to take the round 
 
 (t). '- A Yankee in Canada." Pago 66. 
 
■IP 
 
 _5L 
 
 Jn-m 
 
 i 
 I 
 
 7<; 
 
 trip to the Saguenay and back, passing the pretty seaside resorts of Murray 
 Hay, River du Loup, Tadousac and peerless Cacouna, — the queen of Canadian 
 watering places. 
 
 The poet of the Sierras once said that there were three things in the world 
 which proved, on inspection, to be not disappointing. One of these was the 
 beautiful and glimmering Hay of Naples, the other was the Falls of Niagara, 
 and the third was thjt great " river of death" as Bayard Taylor called the 
 deep, cold stream, the wonderful and awe-inspiring Saguenay. There is no 
 need to describe the grandeur of the Saguenay, but the tourist who wishes to 
 see a sight which almost surpasses belief, will do well to spend a couple of days 
 in investigating the waters of the lower St. Lawrence and the "Amber River" 
 of Joaquin Miller. 
 
 An Englishman of means and leisure who was here a year or two ago, 
 wrote of Quebec and the Saguenay as follows — '* 
 
 " A trip up the wonderful Saguenay river from Quebec is itself worth a trip 
 across the Atlantic, to say nothing of the quaint old city of Quebec, and its 
 magnificent approaches. I could pack up my traps and return home feeling 
 well satisfied with what I have already seen of your country, the dreams of my 
 e irly youth having been more than realized. I wish to see nothing finer than 
 the bays on the St. Lawrence and Saguenay river or the grandeur of Cape 
 Eternity and Trinity Rock on the Saguenay. Your country seems to say with 
 the river of grandeur and beauty : — 
 
 Some may come and some may go, 
 But I flow on for ever." 
 
 One will naturally enjoy a few days of quiet repose at the homelike 
 Chnteau St. Louis Hotel with its picturesque, weird and historic surroundings, 
 after a visit to the wild and awe-inspiring Saguenay. 
 
 (1 
 
 Z\)c Xahe St. 3obn doiuitr^. 
 
 F the tourist be a sportsman, he cannot afford to leave Quebec without 
 .-"w/ paying a visit to that sportman's paradise, lying away amongst and 
 beyond the Laurentian hills that bound the horizon as he looks northward 
 from the city, and which is known as the Lake St. John country. No mountain 
 region on the face of the globe, oft'ers more interesting features to the geologist 
 than that of the Laurentides. This range forms the backbone ot the oldest 
 mountain chain upon the crust of the globe. Thousands of y^ars before 
 Noah's Ark grounded upon the summit of Mount Ararat, or the fiat had gone 
 forth which first shed created light upon a world of chaos, the mountains of 
 which these Laurentian hills then formed the framework, lifted aloft their 
 hoary heads, white with the snows of a thousand years. There are a number 
 of indications of this condition of affairs, which forbid any doubt on the subject. 
 On the heights of Lorette, nine or ten miles from the city of Quebec, where the 
 
/^♦""■•/eiieV* Snp^ 
 
 NOTRE DAME DES VICTOIRES, site of original city (f (Quebec. 
 
 U 
 
 
■■■■• 
 "'^-" - 
 
 •78 
 
 Lake St. John Railway is cut through a heavy sand bank, are found pleistocene 
 deposits of saxicava sand, containing astarte, saxicava-rugosa and pecten- 
 Greenlandica shells in great abundance. These are the self-same shells which 
 are to-day found, inhabited by living mollusks, in the cold salt sea which washes 
 the base of Greenland's icy mountains. In the glacial period of our planet's 
 history, there is no doubt that a similar cold salt sea to that of Labrador and 
 Greenland, covered a great part of this Laurentian country, to a height of many 
 hundrea feet above the present level of our own vSt. Lawrence. A wild country, 
 this, to be traversed by a railway. Few who have not travelled the line of the 
 Lake St. John Railway, have any real idea of the difficulties encountered in its 
 construction. It passes, too, through a remarkable country, full of delightful 
 scenery and thickly studded with the most charming lakes, teeming with fish. 
 Beyond Lake .St. Joseph and the many trout lakes on the other side of Rivi^re- 
 il- Pierre, which have been fished by American sportsmen, there are the beautiful 
 Lake Edward, Cedar Lake and Lake Bouchette. Lake Edwaid is fifteen to 
 twenty miles in length, and dotted with charming islands. For about thirty 
 miles the railway follows the course of the Batiscan river, and here is to be seen 
 some of the most magnificent scenery that can be found anywhere. The streara 
 is from 300 to 600 feet in width, — a leaping, roaring, dashing, impetuous river, — 
 a succession of foaming rapids and fleecy cascades. It is sometimes hemmed 
 in on both sides by lofty mount vins, often so cli)sely that there is scarcely room 
 left on either bank for the roadbed of the railway line. 
 
 At a distance of 190 miles from O lebec, the *'^;rist by this railway reaches 
 Lake St. John,— a great inland ^ea, almost circular in form and over thirty 
 miles across, whicli was discovered by the Jesuit missionary De Quen, 250 
 years ago. It is fed by numerous rivers over a mile wide each at their mouth?, 
 and is the source of the far-famed Saguenay. Here are taken the wcjnderful 
 ouan.tnicbc or land-locked salmon, which afford such remarkable spoit to the 
 angler, and attract so many American t'. .'lermen annually to this northern 
 country. 
 
 It would require much more space than is now at our disposal lo describe 
 the innumerable attractions that the city and district of Quebec posses for 
 tourists of every class. When the time has at length arrived that summons 
 him home from his holiday tour, he must be of peculiar temperament, if he does 
 not declare with a well-known American traveller, already quoted in these pages, 
 *' that one leaves Quebec with a feeling of gratitude. Time is not wasted in 
 sight-seeing here as it too frequcnly is in other quarters. It is an incomparable 
 spot for the lover of a quiet holiday who is anxious to learn something of the 
 country and its history. He walks a ground consecrated to history and he 
 views conditions of life, the like of which cannot be found outside the walls 
 thiit separate it from the outer world," 
 
250 
 
 CAPES ETERNITY AND TlilNlTY, Stigueiuiy River. 
 
80 
 
 As Quebec stands unrivalled in the history of her past, so is she unexcelled 
 to-day in the beauty of her present. As Longfellow sang of Nuremburg : 
 
 " Quaint old town of toil and traffic, 
 
 Quaint old town of art and song. 
 Memories haunt thy pointed gables 
 
 Like the rocks that round thee throng." 
 
 r 
 
 I 
 
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81 
 
 TABLISHED 1797. 
 
 D. MORGAN, 
 
 1 1 TAILOR TO i 1 
 
 His [xcelbcy the Governor-General and mani forrner Governors of Canada. 
 
 Under the distinguished patronage of H. R. H. Princess Louise, 
 
 -ALSO- 
 
 Her Excellency Lady Stanley of Preston for Ladies' Garments. 
 
 5B50,00O.O0 ASSORTMENT. 
 PSace d'Armes, - . . QUEBEC. 
 
 ^ .^s^sSOUVENIR SPOONS AND JEWELLERY.^ 
 
 Foreign Fancy Goods, Field, Marine and Opera Glasses, Vienna Brass Ware, 
 
 Pochet Flas/is, Telescopic Drinking Cups, Picnic and Lunch 
 Baskets, English Leather Goods. 
 
 flflNUFflCTURiNQ WflTCH/TflKEK 6r JEWELLER. 
 
 ===First-Class WorKrneri employed oq t\\B r'rerriises.^^ 
 
 G. SEIFERTS EUROPEAN BAZAAR 
 
 §1 
 
82 
 
 X9^ZSZSZ-XZSXXXZXZ2[Z21^^^ 
 
 S 
 
 TO 
 
 •A) 
 
 -^A- 
 ■^^e 
 
 i? 
 
 '4416^''"' 
 
 PETEH RICHARD, 
 
 NEAR ST. LOUIS HOTEL. 
 
 n-j cis tile fionor to announce fo^onristsand ^ngkrs 
 
 an entire new stocli of Canned DKeats, VegetaBfes, 
 
 Pic^fes, DKnslards, and cfwice Srands of 
 
 Micjnors, afso fnlf assortment of the 
 
 best Groceries, at moderate prices. 
 
 "^ 
 
 Any of the above goods will be packed at a few minutes notice 
 and delivered without extra chargc'^^EJ 
 
 A VISIT IS RESPECTFULLY SOL'CITEU. 
 
Q6' 
 
 ngkrs 
 bksy 
 
 is notice 
 
 83 
 
 Jl^e Ro55i9 House, 
 
 
 
 * * =r*_*i* ***** *:::f3£3€JoeeooGGC-eit*-:-*>'v'.i< 
 
 ?^ 
 
 N^5?:^ 
 
 t^Vxc VU\Vvi- ^N[^VU; ^\-Vl\l^T^., 
 
 TOI^ONTO, 
 
 0J4T. 
 
 ^:#- 
 
 ONLY TWO BLOCKS FROM UNION RAILWAY STATION. 
 
 CONVENIENT TO STEAMBOAT LANDINGS. 
 
 The most complete, luxurious and liberally manai^cd Hotel in Ontario. Rooms 
 
 Large. Airy and en Suite, Passenger and Baggage Elevators running 
 
 day and niglit. P'ire Escape Balconies from Every Floor, 
 
 Prices graduated according to location of Room. 
 
 W. A. C BERRIE. 
 
 CHIEF CLERK. 
 
 A. NELSON. 
 
 FROPRIErOR. 
 
84 
 
 JI^DICAL JJALL 
 
 W. B. K0QCR5, 
 
 10 ^abrique ^treet, 
 
 ^— ^-aUEBEC. 
 
 ^m 
 
 I 
 
 Jo 
 
 GENUINE 
 
 PATENT MEDICINES. 
 
 3%.$%. 
 
 ^pongeSf trusses, 
 QardeTLf ^leld, and 
 
 WHOLESALE & RETAIL. 
 
 TELEPHONE No. 126. 
 
MU: 
 
 ILL 
 
 5 EC. 
 
 ji 
 
 0. 126. 
 
p 
 
 250 
 
 WATERS BROS, dt CO., PRINT., 
 
 767 CRAIQ PTREET, MONTREAL. 
 
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