When You Visit Toronto Kents' Palatial Jewelry Store. REPUTED TO BE THE HANDSOMEST ON THIS CONTINENT. c "y^ DIAMONDS WATCHES STERLING SII^VBR AND SOUVENIRS \ Kents, -^ 144 Yonge Street. OUTINGS IN CANADA. 1-1%.* '^i%^lf^ M ci?cnzEs^ »«^] X.-' R. SIMPSON'S MODERN DEPARTMENTAL STORE, S. W. COR. YONGE AND QUEEN STS., IN COURSE OF ERECTION. TH K picnrsL's at present occupied by us are vastly diflfeient to tliose tliat will constitute our home in the course of a lew months. Everyone knows ot the destruction of our manii'ficent Modern Departmental Store by fire in March last. Contractors are busy at work on the new building, which is being erected on the site of the old, and which will far surpass even that grand structure. In the meantime let us invite everyone to visit us at our temporary premises, 84, 86, 88, and 90 Yonge St. There will be fmind no lack of goods on shelves and counters. In fact we are over-crowded and at present we are pursiting the plan of getting down the volume of stock that this congestion may be relieved. Prices will be tound unusually tempting. A special department will be opened in the new store under the patronage of H-r Kxcellency, Lady Aberdeen, where the laces and other manufactures of the Irish Industrial Association of Duljlin, will be kept for sale. R. SIMPSON, 84, 86, 88 and 90 YONGB ST. TORONTO, ONT. OUTINGS IN CANADA. The Largest Bicycle Factory in Canada, ii where the Celebrated Comet' is made. The Tourists' Favorite Mount. COMET CYCLE CO. TORONTO. Pail's Hotel Li Wi Ai HEADQUARTERS. D n D MEAFORD. ONT. D D D Deliglitful Fishing, Cycling, Boating. On Georgian Bay. OUTINGS IN CANADA. A morning showing: arrival of one of many consignments of foreign goods during a season. W. A. MURRAY ^ CO., 17 TO 27 KING STREET EAST, . , . AND . . . 10, 12 AND 14-COLBORNE STREET, Largest Retail Dry Goods Importers in Canada. Samples sent to any part of the Dominion on application. Toronto, ONTARIO. OUTINGS IN CANADA. ■:^r^'!m^^m'^m^^'^:^-i Toronto, Ont. Hotel Hanlan, M. A. THOMAS, Managfcr. ^ m a m a a rt c (A 0) ■M -t-J rt rr E L. u n If. U. L OUTINGS IN CANADA. II Toronto. NA^ \jy> \.\^> \^M Vv^ W A COSY CYCLISTS' HOME. ^LLIOTT COR. SHUTEH AND CHUHCH STS. C. W. A. HEADQUAKTERS. House J. W. HIRST, Prop. ADJOINING THE ATHEN>EUM CLUB. 12 OUTINGS IN CANADA. TRAVEL THE WORLD OVER! 3 AND YOU WILL FIND NOTHING SO GOOD to allay the thirst in hot weather as Adams' Tutti Frutti. The leading Bicyclists and Racers use it. To all who go outing it is of the greatest importance as it keeps the digestive organs right. DR. CYRUS EDSON. President of the Board of Health. New York, highly recommends it as a wonder- ful aid to digestion. See that »' Tutti Frutti " is on each wrapper. REFUSE IMITATIONS. Adams & Sons Co. TORONTO, ONT. OUTINGS IN CANADA. »3 TREBLE'S FOR . . . HEN'S GLOVES, UNDERWEAR, NECKWEAR, CYCLING HOSE, CAPS, UriBRELLAS, WATERPROOF COATS. \ 53 King Street West, TORONTO. ^ Telephone 670. JOHM MITCHELL, ■-^ r 16 and 18 Duke Street, HACKS, COUPES, FOUR-IN-HANDS. SPECIAL ATTENTION TO TOURISTS AND PARTIES DOING THE CITY. TO-RO/NTO WATSON'S ^UGH DROPS Are warranted to give IMMEDIATE RELIEF to those suffering trom COLD, HOAHSENESS, SORE THROAT, etc. • «M* They allay irritation and produce a soothing effect upon the vocal organs, • ♦ 'Public Speakers and Singers find them of great value in clearing and * strengthening their voices. K. & 1. W AIM) IN, SEatoNERS, rs Front Street East, Toronto. None Genuine unless the letters " R. & T. W." are Stamped on each Drop. H OUTINGS IN CANADA. W. & D. DiNEEN, COR. KING AND YONOE 5TS., TORONTO. THE LARGEST HAT AND FUR STORE IN CANADA We keep the finest ma!;e^ ipri Hats in Silk, Felt and Straw, for cither Lac. s or Gentle- men, in the latest shapes and at veiy reasonable prices. We manufacture all our own Fur Garments and carry in stock full lines and all sizes in Seal, Persian, Electric Seal, Gray Lamb and other costly Fur Garments. Fur Capes, stylish shapes, in all the popular Furs. Boas, Neck Scarfs, Wraps, Small Furs, Trim- mings, etc., etc. Prices the lowest always. One Price. COR. KING W. &D. DINEEN, -^ fT. «x, ^. M,M...^M^ ^, YONGE STREETS. WE ARE THE ONLY FIRM IN CANADA CARRYING A FULL LINE OF Bicycles, PP^IGUNS Catalogue ON Application. Athletic Supplies. The John Griffiths Cycle Corp'n, Ltd. 81 YONGE STREET, TORONTO. T WHEEL OUTINGS IN CANADA .... AND C. W. A. HOTEL GUIDE. Published under the auspices of the Tourinor Section of the CANADIAN WHEEloMEN'S ASSOCIATION. EDITED BY P. B. DOOIdITTLE, M.D., President 6.W.A., TORONTO, 1895. Entered according to Act of PaiHanient of Cauadu, in the office of the Minister of Agriculture, by P. E. Doolitlle, M.D., in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and ninety-five. Printed by R. G. McLean, 32 and 34 Lombard Street, Toronto. DEDICATION. To their Excellencies, The Right Honorable John Campbell Hamilton Gordon, Earl of Aberdeen, Governor-General of Canada, and the Countess of Aberdeen. This volume is gratefully dedicated by athletic young Canada as a tribute to the Genuine Scotch and Irish zeal which they have displayed in all things tending to the advancement of the best interests of our country. P, E. DOOLITTLE, M. D. The Canadian Wheelmen's Association. OFFICERS 1895-96 DR. P. E Presipknt, \'ll K-I'RISIOKM, ...... SKIRKTAKV-TKKASI KKK, .... STANDING COMMITTEES. MEMHiMisiiir. U. A. Robertsnn, Hamilton, L'liairiDan. Ri LKS AND RKtiiLATiONS.-T. A. Beaiiieiit, Ott.'iwa, Cliairmaii. Transi'ORTATION.— A. F. Wobster, loi'. Kin^f and Yoiijfi- Slivots, Torniil*), C'liairm.-m. Ruiins AND Privii.ki.ks. K. M. Ryikinaii. 34 Kinx Sttvct Ea»l, Toronto, Lhairnian. Racinc Board.— Geo. H. Orr, Room 7, 88 Cliiircl) Strei't, Toronto, Cliairm.iii. Roads I.mpkovkmkms. — Andrew Patullo, Woodstock, Cli:iirman. DISTRICTS AND DISTRICT OFFICERS. HURON DISTRICT Ho. I. Composeil of till' C'omitii's of Essex, Kent, Elfjin, Lamlitiin, Middlesex, Perth and Huron, in the Province of Ontario. Chief Consil. — W. B. Clark, jr., Sarnia. Local Consii.s — Windsor. A. D. Bowlhy ; Walkerville, T. A. Janisee ; St. Thomas, H. R. McConnell ; Ayhiier, J. M. Cole; London, Jas. MeCormick; London, J. J. Foote ; Waterford, C.A. Cass ; Petrolia, B. P. Corev; Dresden, M. Carscallen; Sarnia, G. M. Gibljs ; Stratft>rd, Dr. W. N. Robertson ; Goderich, W. W. McVicar ; Ailsa Craijj, Frank Rosser ; Union, J. E. Ellman ; Shedden, Geo. Norman ; Tilburv Centre, W. Hill ; Ch.ith.im, Frank Hyde. NIAGARA DISTRICT-no. 2. Composed of Norfolk, Haldimand, Wellaiul, Lincoln, Wentworth, Waterloo, Oxford and Brant, in the Province of Ontario. Chief Consik. — F. H. Skerrett, Hamilton. Local Consils — Hamilton Bicycle Club, Jno. T. Cauley ; Tourists, Hamilton, W. Rooke ; Ramblers, Hamilton, H. Baldwin ; Corinthians, Hamil- ton, T. F. Dick ; Woodstock, Alf. Bicknell ; Ing-ersoll, S. L. Doo'.ittle ; Brantford, W. B. Toniiinson ; Gait, G. L. McKay ; Waterloo, G. A. Bruce ; Dundas, T. A. Bertram, M.D. ; Beamsville, J. E. Morrow; Grimsby, C. E. Mabey ; St. Catharines, Ed. Smith ; Simcoe, H. C. Stewart. TORONTO DISTRICT -No. 3. Composed 4>f the City of Toronto. Chief Consil.— A. Hurst, 10 Wilton Cres- cent, Toronto. Local Consils. — A. F. Webster, N. E. King and Yonge. F. H. Doley, ,^46 Queen E. _ C. H. Good, Globe office. — G. S. Pearcv, B. A. Assnce Co. T. F. Hire, 56 Front W. — H. Bearly, 13 Broadview Ave. DOOLITTI.K, Sherbourne Street, Toronto, Out. DR. J. D. BAI.FOl'R, L..iidon. Out. H. B. DONI.V. Simci.e, Out. CENTRAL DISTRICT No. 4. Composeil ol tlu- Counlii's of Bruce, Gniy, Simcoe, DulVerin. VVellin>{lon, Halton, Peel ;ind Vi>rk, in tin- Province of Onti'irio. Chief Consi l. R. F. D.iy, Guelph, Oni. QUINTE DISTRICT No. 5. TheCi>unli4's of Oiiljirio, Durham, Victoria, Norlhinnberland, Peterhort), Prince lulvvard, H.'isting-s, Lennox, Aililinijtoti ;ind I'"ronten;ic, ill ihe I'rovince of Ontario. Chief C\>Nst l. — R. J. Wilson, King-ston, Oni. Local Consils. — Belleville, F. H. Smith ; Peterboro. Geo. J. Hi>rkins ; Camplu'llford, F. J. Smith ; Napanee, A. R. Boyes ; Bowman ville, C. B. Kent ; Trenton, W." O. Lott ; Uxbridjje, W. H.-imilton ; Tweed, T. T. Bowers ; Prince Kilward County, Pictou, V.. M. Conger. OTTAWA DISTRICT- No. 6. The remainder of the Province of Ontario. Chief Consil.— T. A. Beament, Ottawa, Ont. MONTREAL DISTRICT No. 7. That part of Quebec Province west of the western boundary lines of the counties of St. Maurice, Nicolet, Arthabasca, Richmond, Sherbrooke and Compton. Chief Consi l.— Gordon Kingan, Montreal. MARITIME DISTRICT-No. 8. The Provinces of Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. Chief Consil.— C. J. Shand, Windsor, N.S. MANITOBA DISTRICT-Ro. 9. The Province of Manitoba. Chief Consi l. — J. J. Beckett, Winnipeg. NORTHWEST DISTRICT-No. 10, Comprising the four Territories of Assini- boia, Saskatchewan, Alberta and Athabasci Chief Consil. — P. F. Godenrath, Calgary. Local Consils. — Edmonton, J. E. Graham ; MacLeod, C. E. D. Wood; BanflF, W. H. Scarth ; Leth- bridge, G. A. Galliher ; Medicine Hat, T. K. Perrell ; Calgary, W. Douche ; Dewdney, A, Truanweiser. PACIFIC DISTRICT-No. II. The Province of British Columbia. Chief Consil. — W. S. Keah, New West- minster. QUEBEC DISTRICT-No. 12. That part of Province of Quebec not in- cluded in District No. 7. ', Chief Consil. — Geo. Van Felson, Quebec.""^ NEW BRUNSWICK DISTRICT -No. n. The Province of New Brunswick. Chief Conscl. — J. M. Barnes, Box 19 St. John. Tourists will receive every courtesy from the Officers of the Association, and we would respectfully suKfjest that they coniiininicate with the Consuls through whose district they intend touring. m(D)i[lJ(CTD(S)Wo .\\ l'^ US from our friends," was never truer llian in tiie case of Canada, and "Save us from our countrymen," applies with stronyf force to those entliusiastic but misguided citizens who have erected hufje ice palaces in two or three of the more northerly parts of our Dominion, where such a thinj^ is rendered possible by continual cold in winter. That Canada has cold weather in winter is conceded by all, especially when you realize that we extend up in the neighborhood of, if not entirely round the North Pole ; but the same remark applies with equal force to Europe or to Asia, and the Canada which we herewith illustrate and describe is not the Canada of the North Pole or the Canada of Labrador, but the Canada of the Great Lakes, the Canada of the St. Lawrence, the Canada of the Land of Kvanj^eline, the Canada of our boundless, rollinjj- prairies, and the Canada of the gentle breezes of the balmy Pacific. The Canada that for nearly eight months of the year is devoid of ;; snowflake, that is supplied during that time with ice by the huge companies who reap a rich harvest by storing and retailing out the frigid commodity at so jnuch per pound. The purpose of this volume is to let our country be better known and better understood by our friends, and if we can convince you that after all we are not a land of perpetual ice and snow, but that summer outings can nowhere else be found so enjoyable, we will have accomplished the task we have set ourselves. From a cyclist's standpoint we have one of the finest climates to be found in the world. In Ontario especially, the months from May to November are delightful for all forms of out-door recreation. The rainfall is comparatively light, and the summer twilights are long. We have many good macadamized and gravelled roads, and the Good Roads Association, of Ontario, is making itself a pov/er for still greater improvements along that line. Our Association has taken up the matter of placing reliable guide-boards at all doubtful points on our highways, so that tourists will find no difficulty in following out the main roads of travel. ao OUTINGS IN CANAPA. In no oilier country that I know of will tourists iincl tho hotel rates so cheap and so satisfactory as in Canada, especially in Ontario, where the usual price for hospitality is one dollar per day, a unifi>rm price of twenty-five cents beinj; charged for meals andsleepinjf accommodation. In the larj^fer towns and cities the prices, of course, arc higher, but in all cases they will be found considerably lower than those of the United States or Great Britain. The vast chain of lakes forming for some thousands of miles the international boundary, affords to Ontario a summer climate that is peculiarly dtlightful, preventing the intense heat which our latitude would otherwise experience, and at the same time making us remark- ably free from the sudden changes which are alike so unpleasant to the tourist and so prejudicial to the invalid. Although " Wheel Outings" would suggest to the reader the idea of a purely bicycling publication, yet it is the object and intention of our Association in this volume to so present Canada as a summer outing ground that all who enjoy athletics and a cool summer's holiday will be favorably impressed with our country and will feel a desire to visit us. To the tourist we say, " come and see us," and if we do not use you right you have the privilege of letting the world know it, but if we do make you feel at home we know that you will tell your friends, and we as an Association will be able to prove ourselves of some value to our country as a means of making it better known, better understood, and more appreciated by our fellow men. P. E. DOOLITTLE, M. D. 180 SHERBOURNE ST., J€»E 7, I89S. 22 OUTINGS IN CANADA. y\ p/HE City of Ottawa is situated on tlie hii^h bank of one of our noble Canadian waterways. Roughly J-^ speakiny^, it extends from the Chaudiere Falls, where the mii^-hty stream plunj^-es into a boiling chasm, to where the Rideau River tumbles in noisy disorder into the greater stream. To the general tourist Ottawa pre- sents many and varied attractions ; to the wheelman these attractions are Perhaps no city of its size in America possesses as many fine buildings, -the Parliament ; nd Departmental build- ings, " par excellence," the educational institutions, churches, charitable, public and mercantile buildings are all worthy of attention. One of the institutions of greatest interest to wheelmen is the home of the Amateur Athletic Club, situated on the corner of Elgin and Maria Streets. It Xepean Point, from Parliament Tower, hy Toplev. greatly enhanced by the facilities af- forded in seeing the city by the excel- lently macadamized streets. It is also a certainty that within another year the principal streets will be paved with asphalt. During the past ten years Ottawa has increased greatly, until at present there is a population oi' some 70,000 within hearing of the roar of the Chiuidiere, is provided with the latest and most improved apparatus. Its gymnasium is a model of its kind, and its reading and billiard rooms the most pleasant in Ottawa, The great saw-mills surrounded by their millions of feet of lumber, the machine shops, foundries, paper mills, electrical apparatus and other factories show the source of Ottawa's commer- cial importance. H OUTINGS IN CANADA. The Geological Museum, Fisheries Exhibit, Art Gallery and Patent Model Rooms are all worth a visit. In the Geological Museum may be seen specimens of minerals, birds, fishes, land animals and plants — products ot field, forest and mine in rich profusion indicating the vast resources and illimit- able natural wealth of this Canada of ours. In the Fisheries Exhibit may be seen everything relating to this great Cana- dian industry — weapons, gear, boats, specimens of fishes and queer models showing manner and method of using the same. During a part of the season there is also in operation a fish hatchery on a small scale where one may see enough to gain an insight into what is becoming a gigantic operation — the replenishing of our rivers and lakes by artificially reared fish. The Model Rooms in connection with the Patent Ofiice are to some the most interesting of all. Here may be seen thousands of models of inventions wise aii'l otherwise, useful and useless, successful and failures, all apparently jumbled together with the cruel irony of fate. In here lie the products of the brains, the blood and the toil of thous- ands who sought to benefit themselves and others by the "greatest invention of the age." Not one out of a thous- and has ever amounted to a hill of beans-very poor beans at that. The Model Rooms are a great object lesson to would-be inventors and their teach- ing must not be disregarded. Running from the city in various directions are roads that afford excel- lent wheeling. That to Aylmer, nine miles, is the favorite run of the O.B.C. The Richmond Road has about twenty miles of straight-away wheel- ing, passing through Britannia, Bell's Corners and Richmond. Running nearly parallel to the Richmond Road is that to Merrivale, which passes the Government Experi- mental Farm. Down the Montreal road are several places of interest. At the Victoria Sulphur Springs, hot baths and sulphur water can be had in abundance. There is also a pleasant run to Cumberland, eighteen miles, and return by boat to Ottawa. The road to Chelsea and the Peche, along the bank of the Gatineau River, is very picturesque, and is often ridden by the Ottawa boys. There is a lonely road to Billing's Bridge, which very short, fast and good, is greatly in vogue as a before-breakfast run. There are also the lumber slides down which any one who is willing to take the risk may ride on a crib of timber. The trljt is very exciting, often very wet and not free from danger. Ottawa has three bicycle clubs, the Ottawa Bicycle Club, Capital Cyclists Touring Club and Rideau Bicycle Club. With all these attractions within and around, Ottawa is one of the most in- teresting cities on this continent. Mimi m im mimL By Mark G. McElhinney. VrpOWARD the latter end of July the boys decided to take a trip up Lake Deschene. We generally do take a couple of trips up the afore- said lake each year, for there is no better route for a pleasant outing. Lake Deschene is an expansion of the River Ottawa and affords good cruising from the Deschene Rapids to the Chats Falls, a distance of about twenty-eight miles. This allows a nice accommodation for four persons. It is advantageous to have these persons of assorted lengths. There were four of us in the party, the Saint, Shorty, a chap from New York, and the writer. We built the clam ourselves in the spring of '94. She is very solidly put together and does not leak a drop a week. The bottom is laid on cross-wise and consists of narrow strips two inches wide and one and one-half inches thick. A Timber Rakt, by Topley. lazy week in a sail-boat, a week of com- plete rest except for the labor of eating and sleeping. The craft used on the present occa- sion is what goes by the name of a "clam," and as it is the largest and best of its tvpe on the lake it is known as "The Clam." The clam is neither graceful nor speedy, but for comfort, safety, and steadiness, cannot be beaten. It affords These strips are jointed with red lead and oil and edge-nailed. There are twenty pounds of red lead in the bottom alone. To return to the crew. Shorty is a six footer, the Saint must have a clear conscience for he is a very jolly sort of a saint, the man from New York is a typical Gothamite clever, reckless and jovial. Shorty usually officiates as skipper, and the writer, owing to an unfortunate aptness, which must have 26 OUTINGS IN CANADA. been inborn for he never sought it, presides over the culinary operations. Shorty phiys the banjo, and N. Y. can get some very good results out of the mouth organ. The Saint i-.ings as a saint should, and the Cook possesses a mandolin. We can ail fish, shoot, swim, sail, and say "confound it " when we bump our heads against the top of the cabin door. The Cook thought that he heard the saint say something else one day after a vigorous bump, but, perish the suspicion, it must have been the creak- ing of the boom. The " clam " uniform consists of sweater and white duck trousers. The "Clam" at Constance Bay, hy Mark G. McElhinney. Head-gear and foot-wear are optional. We left the dock at Britannia Bay at six p. m. It is about six miles to Shirley's Bay, which is the first good stopping place. The wind was light to iitart with, and dropped altogether when we were abreast of Beatty's Point, which is about two and a-half miles from Shir- ley's. We were not out for work, but ■did not wish to anchor out in the open so decided to pole and paddle to Shir- ley's. In the course of a couple of hours we reached the island, and drop- ping around into the bay we cast anchor tor the night. It was a beautiful night, bright moon- light, made on purpose for We sat on top of the cabin and smoked and breathed great lung-fulls of the balmy air, while all around were the musical noises of the night. The frogs kept up a chorus in the marsh on the opposite side of the bay, and occasionally a whip-poor-will told his sad tale to the sleeping woods. Now and then one could hear the dabble and low harsh call of the wild duck in the marsh, and now and then the squeal of the muskrat. There are besides many strange hums and croaks and buzzes, muffled squeals ;uid splashes, that make one think that the whole place is teeming with life, and yet there is noth- ing that could be called noisy. Every- thing is subdued and dreamy, like the faint haze which rises off the water. About nine o'clock there occurred some- thing not down on the programme. Across the lake from Shirley's is the Village of Aylmer, P.Q. We had been noting the effect of the moonlight upon the white cottages when suddenly there arose a faint smoke, then more dense, then a burst of flame from the roof of one of the buildings, then we heard the noise of loud talking and running about. Aylmer's fire fighting facilities were very poor, so that the hre raged for several hours. Some eight or ten houses were burned before it was checked. It was a grand sight from the deck of the clam, a sight not easily forgotten. When the excitement was over, we sought our bunks, and were lulled to sleep by the burr-r-rmm of the frogs and the lapity-lap-lap of the wavelets under the broad bow of the boat. OTTAWA. 27 SHORTY GETS ONE AHEAD. Next morning' we were up bright and early, and prepared to do some fisiiing. N.Y. and the Cooi< decided to do some still fishing off the boat while Shorty and the Saint took the canoe up the creek to troll for pike. N. Y. bet Shorty a package of cigar- ettes — N. Y.'s only fault was cigarette smoking that we would make the bigger haul. After a couple of hours we had several do/en perch and shiners, and a few bass of modest dimensions. Then Shorty and the Saint returned. They had sixteen pike and four pickerel, running from one and a half to seven pounds each. We didn't bother exhibit- ing our catch, and N. Y. handed over the cigarettes. After a four course breakfast, mostly fish, we hoisted sail and headed for Berry's Wharf, which IS about four miles further up the On- tario shore. The river narrows somewhat here, and is very deep. The banks are high and •crowned with trees. We had a very pleas- ant trip. The day was hot, but temper- ■ed by a fine breeze. It was the height oi' luxury to lie in the shade of the sail, smoking and doing nothing. It was the skipper's watch. The Saint and the Cook loafed on deck, and N. Y. took a snooze in the cabin, which was comparatively cool for the cabin of 3. sailboat. We snubbed the boat at Berry's wharf and had dinner. Berry's wharf is near Berry's brewery, in fact the brewery is the cause of the wharfs existence. It "is an old brewery, built several genera- tions ago, and the vaults are full of great timbers, immense spider webs, jfigantic spiders, eyrie shadows, and great casks. The casks are full of old age, cool and delicious. Tiiink of it, ye parched citizen treading the dusty streets, dodging innumerable pedes- trians and numberless horses, deafened by noise, blinded by dust, choking, gasping, sweating, rushing, roaring like a veritable furnace. Think of the cool vaults where nothing is heard but the low murmur of the bottling machine operated by a huge Irishman with a big heart. When the genial great grandson of the builder of these vaults shakes you by the hand and takes you down in the cool regions, down out of the hot sun, down where all is quiet and sweet. Rafting Down the River. verily it is like heaven to the weary. Later in the day we proceeded up the river, past the old military settlement of South March, where the rusted guns are still mounted within the mossgrown walls, past several old ruins originally mansions of retired British officers, whose dust reposes in the old grave- yard not far away. An incident took place in the old fort some years ago, that happily was more comical than serious. One of the descendants of one of the original settlers loaded up one of these old guns with a good charge of powder and a stout chunk of wood. On firing it he 28 OUTINGS IN CANADA. was horrified to see that it had been aimed point blank at a steamer out on the lake. Of course no damag^e was done by so innocent a missile. The gunner, who is now a wealthy business man in Ottawa, sometimes laughingly recalls the incident. The next wharf is at Baskin's Point, opposite which is Twelve-Mile Island. The point is a great place for rasp- berries. Beyond this about six miles is Constance Bay, greatly noted for its fishing and shooting. AT CONSTANCE BAY. We sailed into the Constance (pro- nounced constaw) at 9 p.m. and did not lose any time in making snug for the night. It would be difficult to awake in a more agreeable locality than at the mouth of the Constance Creek. We were so pleased that after break- fast we got out our camera and the Cook took a picture. That is N. Y. sitting on the bow- sprit. Shoity is leaning against the mast and the Saint is sitting on the after part of the cabin. After the picture we again set sail and bowled merrily up the lake. Above Constance is Buckam's Bay, which has a boom stretched across its mouth to avoid pocketing the logs for this river is the great waterway for the lumbermen. Above Buckam we met a raft of timber in tow of the " Monitor," a big side-wheeler. A raft consists of hundreds of cribs lashed together. The men have little cabins thereon in which they sleep. There is a big cook house in the centre of the raft. The men live chiefly on pork and beans and bread baked in a pot in the ashes. A " snack " of these beans is worth a hundred miles travel to obtain — the bread is the sweetest in the world. There is no one to beat a French- Canadian cook on a timber-raft. We usually stop for a snack when it is at all convenient, but this time we had to be contented with a loaf of bread. The owners of the various rafts often come down on them for a trip. If one is acquainted with them it is like falling into clover — the writer has been there. Beyond Buckam's Bay is Crown Point, upon which is the ruin of a fine old stone house. Opposite Crown Point, sometimes called Grierson's, is Moore's Sny, where they sort the logs to make up booms. They bring round timber down in booms — that is they stretch a long boom around several acres of logs and tow them down with a steamer. When the steamer gets to Deschene Rapids they swing into the current, let go one end of the boom and the logs go over the rapids. The steamer then tows the boom back to the Sny. A boom towing behind a steamer reaches about half a mile and looks very innocent, but on no account must it be meddled with as it goes much faster than appearances would show and it is very likely to upset any one who tries to catch on. Four miles above Grierson's lies the Village of Quio, or Quyon, on the Quebec side, and six miles up, just at the foot of the Chats Falls, is F'itzroy Harbor on the Ontario side. The Quio is a pretty little village, having a bakery, a newspaper, several churches and r'.ree or four hotels. There is one great feature about these village hotels — the fa-e may be plain, but it is good and there is any amount of it. The milk and butter are exceptionally good. We took in a fresh supply of bread, milk, butter, eggs, ice and other necessaries, as our stock was showing signs of shrinkage under the careful attention of four able-bodied appetites. From the Quio one can get a good view of the Chats Falls (pronounced Shaw), which by the way are among the most picturesque in Canada. There are a great many chutes, cur- tains, side-streams and little green islets. Some rf the streams are only a few inches across, and some several hundred yards. It was the irregular leaping of the smaller streams that suggested the name to the voyageurs — those untaught poets of the wilds. It was compared to the leaping and frolicing of a lot of wild cats. All around here is good fishing OTTAWA. 29 ground. The parish priest, who is our particular and much esteemed friend, presented us with a nineteen pound pike on the afternoon of our arrival, he having hooked it a few hours before. For real good heartedness and good nature commend me to an Irish priest in general, and Father Keirnan of the Quio in particular. Many a good meal and kind word have the poor of his par- ish to thank him for, for he keeps very little for himself. There is another one of nature's gentlemen at the Quio, to whom we are indebted for very many favors, and that is Captain Davis, who has run the ferry up there for — well, I don't know how long. He is at present building an excursion boat which is to make regular trips between Britannia and the Quio. The clam remained a couple of days at Quio, and then was beached down the river again. At Grierson's we stopped for a swim, and then came right on to Baskin's where we stopped for the night. The next day was wet, so we remained at the wharf. About noon there came up a most violent storm, accompanied by thunder and lightning. Right across the river from Baskin's, and here it is about two miles wide, the Laurentian Mountains seem to rise abruptly from the river's bank — but it is not so — it is a good half-day's walk to the foot. The storm seemed to focus on the peak opposite, and we had a most brilliant exhibition of nature's fireworks — cosmic pyrotechnics. The lightning poured from out the leaden clouds into the bald peak. The clouds rolled and whirled, and sent the rain down in great drops, that sounded as if some one was sprinkling the deck with peas. Soon it hailed and the peas changed to buckshot. Some of the stones were very large. The Saint reached out to get one when another struck him on the back of the head. The one that struck him was fully an inch in diame- ter. The Cook imagined that he heard the boom creak again. Perhaps he did. A BIT OF A FISH YARN. After the storm had ceased, Shorty noticed a school of fish near the stern of the clam. He was too lazy to fish, so the Cook took the tackle and started in. For several minutes they bit ravenously, so that the Cook caught fish as fast as N. Y. could take them off and re-bait the hook. He had a dozen in short order, and then had to stop, for here the law steps in to spoil a good fish story. One man is allowed to catch but one dozen per day. The writer believes that this measure is not intended to protect the fish, but is an indirect method of punishing fish liars. As there were four of us we were enabled legally to catch a nice little kettle of fish. They were small mouthed black bass and of regulation size. There was great sport while it lasted. How they tugged and strained until the rods bent nearly double and the reels clicked merrily — there was great joy that day. We stayed there that night, too. The next day, after a good breakfast of bass, potatoes, bread, coffee and trimmings, we set sail for Britannia, calling at Berry's on the way. There was a pretty stiff breeze dead astern. On the lower lake there was a pretty lively sea on, which made the clam pound considerably. The water dashed right over the cabin, but none came in as she is a dry boat inside. Sometimes the waves would give a slap that nearly shook us off our feet, but the more it blew, the more fun. In due time the clam sailed through the gap at Britannia, and dropped anchor at her usual moorings. The crew of the clam have made many trips together, but for solid com- fort never up to date enjoyed themselves more thoroughly than on the July trip of '94. Even as I write, the clam lies lazily swinging at anchor in the bay and in sight of my window. She is being overhauled and painted, and if nothing- prevents we intend to repeat the trip this year. 30 OUTINGS IN CANADA. o o WWWTO k% k MMMl «T New Union Depot, Front Street West. [HE QUEEN CITY of Canada lies on a gentle slope on the banks of one of the clearest and deepest of the great chain of lakes, Lakii Ontario. It seems to have been the natural stopping place of nations from the earliest times, for we find abundant evidence of the Indian camps and villages whose traces are left in the soil which has ages ago swallowed up their existence. Here was situated Fort Rouille, one of the early points of defence of the great inland country, known to the early inhabitants of Montreal and Quebec as tlie Far West. But Toronto is essen- tially a modern city. To the archae- ologist and antiquarian it possesses few points of interest, but to the traveller, who likes good scenery and good meals, and bright stores in which to shop, and who likes, perchance, to drive a good bargain for his or her choice bit of bric-a-brac or souvenir, it offers all the attractions of a modern city, displaying up-to-date goods, whose prices are made in accordance with their values, instead of being inflated to catch the unwary tourist. Of her Banks and Loan Companies and Insurance Companies, and of her Trust Companies we could write you a great deal, but the tourist does not require to establish a huge bank account to enjoy Toronto on his holi- days, neither does he want to make investments when on such a trip, hence those interesting financial subjects will be passed over by simply being men- tioned. Of her Churches she is justly proud, for Sunday in Toronto is, indeed, a dav of rest ; no beer, no 32 OUTINGS IN CANADA. streetcars, no excursions. The tourist is made to be jjfood one day in seven, whether he hiies it or not, and having' only " Hobson's choice," he will be g-lad to know that he can worship in the finest of Anj^lican or Roman Catholic, Presbyterian or Methodist, Baptist or Unitarian, Conyregation- alists or Disciples, Swedenborg-ians or Christian Scientists, Secularists or Af'i'nostics, Salvation Army or Free Thinkers' Churches, or should his relijjion date back to near the foun- clamor of the trolley and the tram car ; and to every tourist who is a cyclist, the whole city becomes a paradise for wheels where one can roam at his own sweet will without fear of any crowded thorouf^hfare. Althouj^h boasting- of our Sunday, we do not boast of our religion, sa\e and except, that we have the tallest spire on the continent of America, and when the chimes of old St. James ring out, the tourist is awakened with the prospect of an enjoy- able Sabbath service among his own Royal Canadian Yacht Club. Toronto Canoe Club. ON THE WATER FRONT. Argonaut Rowing club. dation of the world, he can spend his Saturday in the Synagogue and sleep in over Sunday. It is a dull quiet Sabbath, but we like it, and so will you, too, dear reader, if you come up and sample it once ; for your hotel can abundantly supply your every need, both liqind and solid, and cab fare is cheap, and drives through our shadv streets and over the pleasant highways of our suburbs, are all the more enjoy- able for being robbed of the noise and people, no matter what may be his denomination ; or, if he has left his religion at home with the rest of his business, he can make the day as enjoy- able as his tastes and our strict Sabbath laws will permit. On any fine Sunday afternoon the hostelries at the Humber, a few miles west of the city on the Lake Shore Road, or at the Half-Way, as far again in the other direction, or along any of the thoroughfares leading from the city, will be found to be alive TORONTO AS A SUMMKR RHSORT. 33 with cyclers. There are no club runs, for we told you before that we were especially jfood and did nothinj^ to desecrate the Sabbath, but choice lots of wheelmen in twos and fours and singles, with here and there a tandem and plenty of ladies to ijrace the occa- sion, ai-e quietly enjoying- the fresh air and the sunshine ; and they are well mounted, too, for sucii a thing as an old high wheel is not seen once in a summer, and the patterns of '90, '91 or even '92, are almost like horses in Venice. Many wheel out ten, twenty or thirty miles in the afternoon, enjoying one of the cosy teas which our small country hotels are learning so well how to pre- pare, and then a quiet stroll back to town in the gloaming with a happy contented feeling of good will towards all men, which is a meed of praise befitting the Sabbath day. But all things come to an end, and so does our quiet Sabbath, and Monday morning finds us rested for another week of rush and hurry and keen business push, with just enough time to make our- selves sociable to our friends, the visit- ors. If you are a cyclist, we have the Kingston Road to offer you, stretching away along the north bank of our beautiful lake, in many places dipping down so near that one feels tempted to leave bike by the wayside and take a plunge in the surf; at others, winding farther inland between fields, whose beauty and the fragrance of whose abundant crops and meadows delight both sense of sight and smell, and plentifully sprinkled with small villages and towns, whose hotels are amply able to cater comfortably to your re- quirements. It is 170 miles, and can be scorched in one day, or ridden in two or thoroughly enjoyed in three days, according to the taste or ambition of the rider ; but, perhaps, you are a tourist from an inland town and would like a boat trip, and you ask for infor- mation as to what special trip to take. So much depends on whether a ferry trip to the Island would be long enough to suit you, or a trip to Montreal, that we will not advise you now, but if you will meet me at two o'clock this after- noon, at the foot of Yonge Street, we will hire a row boat, and pulling out a short distance into the bay, w< will show you what we have to offer in that line, and then you can take your choice. What a ringing of bells and sounding of whistles there is to be sure. Surely this must be a centre of some import- ance, you exclaim as you see the docks and slips filled with a fleet of summer pleasure boats, that no where else in the world can be found congregated in St. James' Cathkdkal (KpiscuI'ad. so short a space. Here comes a huge double-ender backing out of the Yonge Street slip and making straight for us ; we quickly row out of its path, to give place to the Mayflower^ one of the twin ferries that ply between Toronto and Hanlan's Point. But we have forgot- ten to tell you that we have a Hanlan's Point and that we have an Island. A long, low stretch of sand at one time continuous with the mainland, at 34 OUTINCIS IN CANADA. the east of the city, lies out at a ciis- taiico of I'roni one to two miles from tlic city's water fronl. Tiiis is a remarlNablc formation for a deep lal Island, lor hero our city fatlicrs have laid out a Inijfe lawn, well shaded by trees, where littlj children may roam about and where older little children may enjoy their playful ways without disturbance and without the accom- paniments of a crowd ; or, wandering; over to the lake side may view with deliicht and interest hundreds of sand castles that are beint,"^ built and demol- ished by the children on the broad shin^'le. Hut scarcely has the A/dV *liis made that peril- ous descent, and swimming' the river so maile their escape. The Niaj,'-ara peninsula, famous for its vineyards and its fruit farms, pre- sents before the eye its most fruitful section in the broad expanse that nestles between this ridj^e and the lake, and no camera can ever bej^in to l\o di/zy staircase to the top will j,'-ive him one of the f,'^randest panoramic views imaj,''inable, for he will have, if the day he clear, f,'-limpses of Lakes Erie and Ontariv\ and of l^uffalo, Hamil- ton and Toronto, and of the Niaj^ara i^ori^e and the l''alls, spread out at his very feet. Hut away we f^fo aj^-ain, and now our car bears us rij;-hl on the very brink oC that enormous gorj^e which stretches SiK John Macdonalo Monumknt, guEKN's Park. justice to the beauty of this and the remaining- parts of this trip, as the ideas of vastness and sublimity become entirely lost in the shortened perspec- tive of the photograph. The tourist, who has the time, will do well to leave the cars here and spend a short while in the park surrounding that finest of all Canadian monuments which crowns the very summit here, and if he has plenty of energy a climb around its from here up to the foot of the falls. In many places one feels as if the very- car would topple over the edg-e, but we know that we are perfectly safe and so- enjoy it the more. At the whirlpool our car takes a circuit fully two-thirds, of the entire distance around it, and at its western extremity we find ourselves- being carried across a spiderv trestle nearly 150 feet above the earth. The view of the whirlpool is magnificent^ TORONTO AS A SUMMKR RKSORT 47 but to manv who expect to see the water loapin^ and foamiiif,'' as in the rapids it is disappointiiif,'^, but wiien you iiavo watched that ^reat circling' cauldron, and have seen huj^-^e lojj;^ ; tossed about as it they were cockle-shells, the sub- limity and the power of it all overcomes vou, and you readily understand why it was that Captain Webb, the hero of the I"]nj^lish Channel, so quickly fell a prey to his foolhardy darint,' in the whirlpool. Away we go, and riffht alonj; the edj^e of the opposite cliff we see the train of the New York Central carrieil on a ledg'e of rDck so narrow th.tt did we not know safety we would stand in momentary expectation of its awful plun^^e to the river below. And away down below, rij^ht near the water, we find busy workmen preparing- for a trolley line that will skirt the water's edge from Lewiston to the Falls. In taking this trip the other day we saw hundreds of men at work who looked like hug^e ants dig^ging away and mak- Landing at Queenston. ing a tiny road which threatened at every point to slip into the river. And as we sped along- in our cool open car, fanned by a pleasant breeze, we pitied those sweltering- creatures in the bottom of the gorge, without a breath of bree/.e House in which Uenekal Brock |)Iki>. to cool them at their work, when sud- denly we saw a puffof smoke, and debris and rock fly heavenward, followed in a few seconds by the loud report of a dynamite explosion. A little further on we saw the same thing repeated, and between the flving smoke and rub- bish and the report, we fancied we heard the foreman of the g-ang expostu- lating, "Get out of ihat now, will ye? Ve won't eh? Well, take the conse- quences ! Are vez readv, McCloskev ? Blast ! Fire ! All over f" " Drill ye tarriers, drill !" But here where the huge g'orge narrows, we see below us the most turbulent of all the rapids, seething- and boiling and tumbling along, as if still in ang-er from its mighty downfall, until we reach the Suspension and the Cantilever bridges displaying side by side in striking contrast two of the g-reatest plans of man to surmount an obstacle. And on to the footbridg^e, with the river grown quiet agaiUj as if too much stunned by the shock of its mighty downfall to make any remon- strance. Now we have entered the Queen Victoria Niagara Falls Park, and what a contrast we find to the old 48 OUTINGS IN CANADA. "faking" days when doinj^' the falls meant systematically beinj; robbed. Our car bears us swiftly alonj^', still skirtinj^ the very brink, past the old museum, now converted into the l)uf- ferin restaurant, where a comfortable table d'hote dinner served by pretty waitresses in white in a cool dininj^ room whose lofty ceilinj^ extends away up to the dome, where stained lights lend soft colors to the tasty decora- tions whose simple modesty corre- sponds pleasinffly with the modest charj^e of fifty cents for dinner, until we come to Table Rock, and as we make the run to Chippewa after passing- Clark's Island and the Burning Springs, we come to the rapids above the falls, so often neglected by tourists and which are one of the g-reatest sights of all, for here as we speed along by the river's brink we have all aspects of the water from the calm mirror-like surface at Chippewa, till a slight agfitation as if a premonition of coming danger was felt, next a haughty toss of the head as the first few wnitecaps laug^h and dance in the now trembling waters, next a wild, mad rush down the jagg^ed and boulder broken incline with the spray tossed high and the foam-flecked crest of each billowy wave sugg^esting" a fear-crazed animal lost to all sense of restraint and dashing on heedlessly to utter destruc- tion. Then smoother again, as if gal hering up all its forces for the mighty leap which is just before it, until with a hoarse cry of despair it rolls and tumbles in an agony that dissolves it into a mass of mist and foam long before it reaches the rocks below. Of the Kails proper so much has been said and written and so many photo- graphs taken that it would seem idle in me to attempt any description, but to sit in any of the shady observation pavilions and gaze on that gigantic waste of Nature's energy until your very being seems to shrink into absolute nothingness, and life, energy, power, God, become supreme and absolute, stamps it all as the culminating point of earth's scenic grandeur. BRIDGES LEADING TO DUFKERIK ISLANDS AND BURNING SPRINGS. MMTiEAL WM TOYAl (CDTY, ROYAL CITY ! truly, and rijfht royally we welcome you to and tender you the freedom of it. Come with the poet and stand on the .spct where pilgrim feet, from those of the last g'lobe-trotting' tourist back throuf^^h the long' line — distin- guished and commonplace, stranger and citizen — to those of the ever- memorable, history-making De Maison- neuve, Champlain, and Jacques Cartier, the discoverer, have pressed the turf book platitudes, or ostentatiously parade before you tabulated statistics and schedules of our wealth in real and personal estate. Of these you will see no lack, solid facts, very materially en evidence, that we cannot conceal if we would, but rather would we direct your glances towards tlie natural beauties, the quiet by-ways, the "Sights and Shrines " ignored by the fin-de- siecle hustler, and remind you of the romantic and historic associations that 1 ^i^PBHBs BWP'flSiWHWHBPfS^^^^^W • i-, . •■ • ■ I.-' .?' " a'" ,,,_•»«(.';_ ■-^w .r *■ ' "'^W^ia .1* , I A ...... ' ■■■■ .f^ ■■ i^ — ^itf«- 1-. »W. .r.^- r^*. -^^^ \..^- Montreal from Mount Royal, by Notman. on old Mount Royal's crest. Look ! Sweep the eye over the magnificent panorama spread in all its wealth of mountain and meadow, stream and sk) , factory and farm, castle and cot, and wonder if you will that we who know it best should love it so, or that our love for our native city should impel us to voice its praises in song. It is not our purpose as cicerones on this occasion to weary you with guide- cluster thickly among the brightest iewels of our city's crown. Glance rapidly over the record. Sail with the Discoverer, in 1535, up the vast, unknown, expanse of mighty waters,, past Gaspe's cliffs, the awful portal of Saguenay's mysterious depths, and Stadacona's beetling crags, on to where the Royal Mount rears its plumes above the foam of the rapids and shadows the town of Hochelaga nest- 50 OUTINGS IN CANADA. ling- at its feet. Read of his reception and the homage, as to a god, paid him In Mount Royal Park, by Notman. by the chief, and see the plans he made of the well-laid-out, circular, walled town, which, in a few short years, was so utterly destroyed by war and pillage of hostile foes that its sight was utterly lost, and its very existence questioned, when workmen digging in the imme- diate vicinity of the M. A. A. A. Club House accidentally discovered traces that settled the matter beyond dispute in the minds of antiquaries, and afforded many of them fine opportunities to acquire some of the long buried relics. Years pass — seventy-six, long, bloody, wasting — till again in i6i i, the white man, pressing everwestward his empire- widening wa}', beaches his venturesome canoe on the shingle of St. Mary's Current, and Champlain plants the " Bourbon's Lilied Blue " at the fitting season of the birth of the year and on the ground where, at that same season, nearly three centuries later, the children of a more favored generation lovingl}- gfather by armfuls the Trilliums— "white lilies," they call them — that gem the maple wreathed slopes of Mount Royal. y\ll around is the awful g-loom of the solemn woods, and not a trace of town remains that Cartier found there. To the keen eye of the explorer, the value of the site as an entrepot of trade and an outpost of supreme im- portance at once appears; and on the spot where the Custom House now stands, and recently re- christened, as he called it, he cleared a space and named it " La Place Royale." Necessarily, in a rapid sketch such as this, in the space at command, much of interest must be omit- ted and effort mainly confined to the attempt to awaken a desire for fuller knowledge. Aside from the great mass of material in MS. and print, unavailable to most of us because of our lamentable lack of knowledge of the which it was written, there matter pertaining to tongue m is much valuable \ \ 'm^:m ikkA 'vm,- Montreal in condensed form of special articles by McLennan, Lighthall, San 1- ham, Weir, Murray, Reid, Martin and other local writers in prose and verse; but the source and inspiration of most of it may be traced to Parkman — ■ prince of historians and raconteurs — than whom no safer, more entertaining^ or instructive guide could be desired ; whose facile pen has done more for us Canadians of English speech than any other in showing us the priceless pos- session we have in Or stain our scutcheon with a Judas blight ? When traitors hiss, do thou, indiu^nant, hurl Thy challenge back : " It is my native land ! " So much for the citv itself, and a wheelman desiring to explore and visit its "Sights and Shrines" would do well to provide himself with the guide book so entitled, and with this in hand he may wander at will among the busy scenes of to-day where are placed the marble tablets that commemorate events Entering Lachine Rapids, by Notman. OUR BIRTHRIGHT. Go ! read the patent of thine heritage. Inscribed in glowing words that flash and burn With pregnant import. Con it well and learn The thrilling tale that lights the storied page. S;e Faith and Va!r,.- hand-to-hand engage Opposing powers, and by their prowess turn The wild into a puissant realm, and earn A deathless fame, bright to the Is test age ! 'Tis thine and mine ! Shall we, then, hold it light,— Despise t)ur birthright as some base- born churl And recreant yield it with a nerveless hand, and incidents of r. ::.tirring past to which he holds the key. Should he desire to take a run into the country about, local wheelmen will be delighted to afford all information and assistance in their power, and should his visit coincide wif'i any of the city club's runs the members will be more than pleased to have him accompany them. These are many and interesting. First, the city itself, as described. Then the Mountain Park, with its serpentine windings, maple shaded 52 OUTINGS IN CANADA. nooks and pine covered knolls. Round the mountain to the athletic club house is a favorite short run. Then there's Lachine — " jz^ate of the Orient long- ago" — with the near-by Indian settle- ment of Caughnawaga across the river ; out by the "upper" and home by the "lower" road, with view of the two celebrated railway bridges and the rapids between. Should he aspire to wider fields and longer runs he may have them in plenty and of all lengths. The lake resorts, extending to St. Anne's 20 miles west ; St. Laurent, Back River and Terrebonne north and east and across the river to Chambly and surrounding districts on the south. Should the visitor enjoy boating- and sailings or a quiet day with rod and reel he may, by proper introduction and proving himself a "good fellow," find plenty of like sort who will gladly do all they can to put him in the way of "enjoying his stay according- as his tastes and preferences may lean. Samuel M. Bavlis. By perintssion, from "Our City and Our Sports." Publisheil by the Xlontreiil IMcycle Club. Victoria Square, by Notman. D)fn\u ®[lJMi §T„ T»M1I\! \n r>/HE railway city of south-western Ontario has a name that is im- mortal, a name that was flashed around the world and that centred the thoughts of all civilized nations upon it, and that so fixed it in the minds of all British subjects that it great deal more. It is the centre of one of the finest wheeling- districts in the whole of Ontario, and the tourist who wants to leisurely do this country can well afford to make Mr. Donley, of the Grand Central, his host for a few days while he revels in good wheeling. St. Thomas— in the Ravine. will be evergreen long after "Trilby" has been forgotten, for this was the scene of poor Jumbo's death. It is a pretty little city, sitting on the brow of a hill whose deep valley gave the rail- way companies the opportunity of Iniilding there the largest bridges in the province. But to the cyclist it is a To the west there is Fingal, Shedden, and so on right up to the Detroit river. To the north there is the London road, seventeen miles of delightful wheeling. To the east there is the Aylmer road, giving a delightful ride of twelve miles, and from the latter point pleasant trips can be taken in every direction, while 54 OUTINGS IN CANADA. to the south there is a boulevard ending at the cosy little summer resort, Port Stanley. St. Thomas is one of the centres of the i^ood roads movement, and they did their practising' first and their preaching- afterwards, for no other city in Canada can show such perfect macadamized streets, nor can any other city g^ive as fine roads as lead from this point in every direction. To Port Stanley is onlv nine miles, and here is one of the finest surf-bathing- beaches on the whole chain of lakes, and with boat connection with Cleveland it is easy of access to our friends across the lake. St. Thomas boasts of the proud distinction of being- the place where the Canadian Wheelmen's Association was organized, and there is no doubt that within a radius of twenty miles of this centre there dwelt at that time more cycling enthusiasts than were con- tained in all the rest of the Dominion. St. Thomas looking down Wellington Street. mmL T occurs to me that every c\clist is, or must be sooner or later, a sports- man in the true sense of the word. J-i How else could it be otherwise. The wheel is an incentive to daily reg-ular exercise, and exercise when taken regularly, and without fatigue, cannot but be beneficial to every portion of the body. The fact of its being necessary to take it in the open air will also have a conducive tendency to out- short a space as possible, to give you a synopsis of the many attractions this district abounds in. If you are fond of fishing or shooting, I can safely say that there is no place in this country where game can be got with as little exertion. I am not an advocate of any sport that will tend to injure the health of the participant. It is absolute folly for any person accustomed to sedentary occupation, to immediately plunge into II 1 . Jl^ ^ i i jv. ..., ^^^HBP^r^ ..tJ^^^^l^taHjHp*^''^^'" .....«.,:. J ^.^.MtfMB - .^mH^H^B^^^^^^^^H^hi ■■i^ 1 1. 1.) 1 1 Lii . ^ i ■ ,:il^^|p^_„_.M^^ 'ii^-j._.:„_,.., --.: .. : ^ ■-._<.? .. . ; \. . ..-■-■ ■ ., . ■■■;■■ ^ - :■ "^ ' .-; ^ * • : ■ . . . -v/ - ;■ . . Along the St. Clair. door sports. With what pleasure then will he look forward to the two or three weeks in the year when he may be for- tunate enough to lay aside business cares and worries, and give himself up to unrestricted enjoyment. In this . "...^j - -■' 1 iv -• ; ■• '•■•-'^^ are many suitable places, for this purpose, but there is one />ar avance of all others, and that is on the banks ot the St. Clair. I will endeavor, in as any sport requiring great bodily exer- tion or exposure. If you decide to come this way, come first of all to Sarnia. P'rom here you can reach by wheel, rail, or boat any of the fishing or shooting grounds in a few hours. " Such a stream Rome's yellow Tiber cannot show, The Iberian Tagus, or Ligurion Po, "_"' j The Maise, the Danube, and the Rhine, Are puddle water all compared with thine." 56 OUTINGS IN CANADA. More tonnage passes Sarnia and the places on this river than on any other on the globe. In 1889 the returns of clearances and entries of the great sea- ports of the world gave New York 11,051,236 tons, all seaports in the United States 26,983,315 tons, London 19,245,417 tons, and Liverpool 14,175,- 200 tons. The tonnage passing Sarnia that year during the 234 days of naviga- tion amounted to 36,203,606 tons, nearly 10,000,000 tons more than the entries and clearances of all the sea- ports in the United States and nearly 3,000,000 tons more than the combined foreign and coastwise shipping of Liver- pool and London. We have six or seven thoroughly first-class hotels, but the Belchamber has secured the coveted honor of being officially dubbed the wheelman's head- quarters. John Buckley is the proprietor and a right good wheelman he is. It would be impossible for me to here enumerate all the points of interest — their name is legion. We would like you to spend your whole vacation here, and eventually live with us, but presum- ing you may possibly want to get out of town, we will try and pilot you down towards the St. Clair flats. Leaving Sarnia we wheel close along- side the bank of tlie river, passing the Indian reservation and many attractive Indian maidens bound for town with their loads of baskets and other Indian wares. The braves generally go to town at night, and I have often wondered at their carrying capacity, for I have frequently seen them stag- gering home with a load that would knock a white man under, and singing cheerfully at that. This predisposition for late work seems to have the effect of depopulating the reservation with alarming rapidity, and at the present rate it will not be long before they become extinct in the vicinity of Sarnia. After a run of seven miles we arrive at Corunna, asmallplace, situated opposite which is one of the prettiest islands on the river. Stag Island. On this island are many cottages, and the tempting coolness of its groves off"er inducements for a loaf almost irresistible. Leaving Corunna we wheel through a charming piece of country bordered on either side by woods, the branches of the trees forming a canopy overhead to break the hot rays of the sun, and the cool breezes off the river seem to fill you with new life. A run of six miles brings you to Mooretown, and another mile to Courtwright, where splendid hotel accommodation is af- forded at the Bedard, superintended by the popular and enthusiastic wheelmen, Messrs. Bedard Bros. From this point you can wheel down the Canadian shore passing Sombra to Port Lambton, or crossing over to St. Clair, wheel down the American side, passing Oaklands and Marine City to Algonac. At either of these places an Indian guide can be gotten, for a small tip, to pilot you to the haunts of the black bass and any other kind of fishing you may want. This section of the country abounds in game, and if you should happen to take your vacation during duck season, if you are not already acquainted with this part of the country you will cer- tainly be surprised at the vast quanti- ties. I still remember vividly my first experience on these flats. I went down with a party of seven to Wallaceburg, a place about five miles from Port Lambton. We left about a couple of iiours before daylight, and paddling down the Sny Carter, a small river running into Lake St. Clair, arrived at our shooting grounds just as dawn was breaking. I thought I saw a small island ahead of me and started to paddle for it. It was rendered indistinct by the gray mist rising off' the marshes, and for a while I did not notice that I was getting no nearer. On observing this fact I rubbed my eyes and paddled harder, but with no better result. Finally I called to my companions to find out what it was, but the sound of my voice had a better effect in solving my difficulty than my hard paddling. For a moment I thought the Nihilists must be blowing up the St. Clair flats, for with a noise like thunder the whole imaginary island rose and was off before I could realize they were ducks. It is no uncommon thing for the sky to be darkened by vast flights of ducks. SARNIA. 57 and the quick flapping of their wings sounds Hke thunder in the distance. Many excellent runs can be taken between the numerous towns and vil- lages. A trip through the oil district is well worth the trouble. By applying to the local consul arrangements may, I think, without difficulty, be made for some of the Sarnia wheelmen to accompany any of the large touring parties. There is in any case little danger of losing your way, as already boards indicating the direction and distance to the diflFerent towns and villages are posted up all through this part of the country, our chief consul, Mr. W. B. Clark, having devoted a great deal of energy to the work. ZiNGARO. Along the St. Clair. By the Honorable John Beverley Robinson. n S editor and publisher of "Wheel ^l=,\ Outings in Canada " you have ^ ^ asked me to give you a short sketch, subject and leng^th of article to be at my discretion. I willingly com- ply, the difficulty however being to write something, rather hurriedly, that will interest your readers. The object you have in view, is, I judge from what vou have said, to make Canada better known as a summer outing ground, particularly to our American friends, by a description of our fishing, hunting, boating and bicycle sketches, and so attract them here in greater numbers. To make Canada better known here and abroad is a worthy and patriotic motive, deserving of every encourage- ment. You are, I am glad to see enthusiastic for Canada, and it would be well if men of your stamp were multiplied among us. A noted French- man has recorded his belef that this world is divided into tv""' classes, " celle qui sont I'enthusiasme, et celle qui le meprise " (those who possess en- thusiasm, and those who despise it). You are of the former class and would like to see the bold scenery and bold pastimes of Canada, in which Canadians rejoice, better known to the world. While some of your friends will add to the interest of your publication by describing the above, putting in a word at the same time, I hope, for the bold colonial race by whom this country is inhabited, it may not be amiss for me to give a short account of this very spot and the surroundings upon which our stately Athletic Club, now such an ornament to our city, has lately been erected. Opposite to us. or nearly so, and immediately to the north, stands our great National University. Now, when in 1849, I cleared away the original forest of great pine and other trees, and planted the cottage on the site of which this club is built, the University in the position it is now, or in fact any other building, near to us, did not exist. True, to the east of the new Parliament Buildings, and previous to my settling here, there was laid the corner stone of King's College with great ceremony and rejoicing. This, however, (after being put to various uses) was pulled down, the present University, under a new organization, taking its place. It was a happy choice that Dr., afterwards Bishop Strachan, and my father made, when, in the interest of Upper Canada, and the cause of education, they select- ed and purchased the adjacent one hun- dred acres or more for the purposes of a Provincial University. No better choice could have been made or the land devoted to a better purpose. More than once have 1 heard my father describe the many tramps he and Dr. Strachan had before deciding upon the locality on which King's College should be built. The ceremony of laying this corner stone was, I have said, one of general rejoicing. No more impressive cere- mony has ever taken place before or since in these University grounds. The roadway on the avenue from Queen Street to the grounds was lined on either side by Imperial troops in single file through which a vast procession, headed by the then Governor-General, Sir Charles Bagot, Chancellor of the University, proceeded on foot, the corner stone being laid by His Ex- cellency in person. This was on St. George's Day, 23rd April, 1842, and wunal a vciy nut anu uusiy uay. cair Charles Bagot, in his rich Lord Lieu- tenant's uniform, had a very distinguish- TORONTO ATHLETIC CLUB. 59 ed personal presence, and on that day, as well as on every other, when I had the honor of seeing him, graced his office well. Naturally so, perhaps, for he was used to and had taken part in great ceremonies, having been ling- land's ambassador to more than one foreign court, where the frank dignity of his bearing, polished manner and address, did full justice to England's choice. Around the foundation stone a large amphitheatre of seats was con- structed, tier rising upon tier, and densely filled with ladies. At this point, on the arrival of the procession, all being in their proper place, addresses were delivered, and the stone being morticed in, the Royal artillery fired a salute of nineteen guns, when the Bishop dismissed the assembly with an appropriate prayer and God Save the Queen, closed a ceremony never to be forgotten by those who, like myself, were fortunate enough to have witness- ed it. In my boyhood I was well acquainted with the University grounds, purchas- ing afterwards the two acres where the club now stands, greatly because I thought it a beautiful spot, adorned with grand trees, with a lively creek running through it ; but chiefly because the two acres adjoined the then cricket ground, as well as the then race course, where athletic games in those days were held. To this glorious English pastime of cricket, which " In Tom Brown's School Days at Rugby " you will see it stated, "is as much the birthright of British boys, old and young, as is trial by jury to British men." I had a strong attachment, following the fortunes of our cricket club for many years in Canada and in the States. I made many a good friend on that old play ground, have seen many crowds surrounding it and many games, amidst great excitement, lost and won, had many a joyous lunch, too, in the grand stand, listening at times with infinite pleasure to patriotic speeches by Chief Justice Draper, Chancellor Spragge, Principal Barron, Barber, and scores of others, all, in my early days, ardent devotees to the shrine of England's national game. How often, too, did many of them, when the game or practice was over, come through the gate to enjoy our cottage cheer, so brightened by their presence. Ah ! those years so quickly passed, would that one could see them again, and the fine fellows with whom I then associated ! Though they will never return, I shall never forget them, or the good fellowship engendered and increased by our mutual love for the manly sport of cricket. The athletic games held on Boulton's race course, adjacent also to this place, do I remember well, and the struggles and incidents connected with them. Speaking particularly of the games held on the south side of the course in June, 1843, attended by thousands, many competitors having entered from two noted regiments, the 43rd and 93rd, I am not apt to forget winning, as I did, four silver medals in competition with famous athletes well known in these regiments. One of them, Sergt. William MacGillivray, of the 93rd, was a splendid specimen of the Highlandman, and who, when his regiment was short- ly afterwards ordered to England, swept the games at the then military camp at Chobham. Many a conversa- tion have I had with my two late esteem- ed friends. Senator John Macdonald and Mr. A. M. Smith, (in their youth aisc in the 93rd) about William Mac- Gillivray, so well known and popular in his regiment and in the city. In figure and face he was the beau ideal, to my mind, of a Highland soldier, the show- man of that famous regiment, no small praise for any man of that day. The last time I conversed with the Senator about MacGillivray, I was glad to hear, that he held a prominent ofiice in, I think, the corporation of Dundee. The other formidable competitor in these sports of 1843 was William Mac- Bean, who then only a private soldier in the 93rd, rose afterwards, step by step, to be colonel of his regiment, and finally major-general, with the Victoria Cross. What a career ! and by what heroic conduct he won all these honors, and his unquestioned fame is told in 6o OUTINGS IN CANADA. many mi anecdote as well as in the records of his regiment. I think I see him new as he contended in these games. He had a very powerful frame with absolute fearlessness written in his face, and yet withal of that quiet man- ner so often the accompaniment and true sign of fearlessness. Let me relate one exploit of his as told in a book recently published, " Reminiscences of the Great Mutiny." Speaking of the siege, capture and relief of Lucknow the narrative says : " We had barely finished our meal when we noticed a stir among the staff officers, and a consulta- tion taking place between General Sir Edward Lugard, Brigadier Sir Adrian Hope and Colonel Napier. Suddenly the order was given to the 93rd to fall in. This was quickly done, the officers taking their places, the men tightening their belts, and pressing their helmets firmly on their heads, loosening the ammunition in their pouches, and seeing that the spring of their bayonets held tight. Thus we stood for a few seconds when Brigadier Hope passed the signal for the assault on the Begumis Kothee (or Court)," and this is what is said of my old antagonist on that eventful day : "Lieutenant and Adjutant William Mac Bean (he had risen then to this rank from his gallant conduct in the Crimea) encountered an Havildar (or native officer), a naik and nine sepoys at one of the gates, and killed the whole eleven one after another. The Havildar was the last, and by the time he got through the narrow gate several of our men came to the assistance of MacBean, but he called on them not to interfere, and the Havildar and he went at it with their swords. At length MacBean made a feint cut, but instead gave the point and put his sword through the chest of his opponent." For this he received the Victoria Cross. Sir Edward Lugard, the general in command of the division, luckily perhaps for MacBean, the nar- rator says, was looking down from the ramparts above and saw the whole affair. Have I not a right to be proud of my medals won against such a hero when we both were young in 1843 ? I might truly add, as history has so recorded it, that throughout that terrible mutiny all our troops then engaged in India, the 93rd, not the least, proved themselves a gallant brotherhood of knights. Another incident which also took place near to where we are, and on the same race course, is worth relating, as it marked the commencement of a career, which has been almost as eminent in peace as he of whom I have been speaking was eminent in war. It is no exaggeration to say that the race held on the Boulton property were, making allowance for the difference in population, as well known, as numer- ously and fashionably attended as is now the Woodbine race course of 1895. Remember, there were two full regi- ments of the line then stationed in Toronto, with complements of Royal Artillery and Engineers, Major Mc- Grath's troop, as well as (for some years) a regiment of our militia. Among them was more than one officer, noted in his country for wealth and sporting tastes, who took a prominent part as steward and regulator of these races. One day, when a race on the pro- gramme was called, all came to the front with the exception of one horse, , being led, his jockey being nowhere. The stewards were preparing for the start when some one said it was a pity that this horse's rider had vanished and that the horse could not run. Up spoke a lad to the stewards in the stand, say- ing: " I'll ride that horse, gentlemen, if no objection." They smiled at the lad's apparent presumption, but as quickly said to him "jump on, lad," which he did, and to the general sur- prise won the race. Now, that lad is to-day a Senator and belted knight, has proved himself successful in business, in politics, in social life, winning every race everywhere, just as he did that day on Boulton's course. One evening, on a semi-public occasion, when he and I were present, he proposed my health. In response, acknowledging what my old friend too kindly said, I told the above anecdote of him, much to the amusement of the company as well as of himself. On driving home with him that evening he enquired how the deuce it was I saw or remembered that occur- TORONTO ATHLETIC CLUB. 6r rence. "Never mind," said I, "on the next occasion when you are present I shall tell another incident ot you that will Interest your friends still more." " D — on you, Governor if you do, I'll," and then he stopped, which I, with equal prudence will also now do, wishinj,^ that your enterprise, for which I j^ive you every credit, may answer all your expectations. mmm mi km e As A Bicyclist's Ideal Rksort. fHY should I attempt a sketch upon a city which has drawn expressions such as I will attempt to quote from some of the most renowned men, both past and present. It is to be observed that tourists as a rule visit Quebec as ihe last link not consecrated by well established fact or tradition to the memory of deeds of heroism, of instances of undying piety and faith. The daring- explorers of half a continent, European heroes' of martial strife and strateg-y, and their dusky chieftain allies, noble matrons, and self-sacrificing missionarie:;, whose W^^ mk i i^4 fc'fl 1 ly .y ' -.■,, m 1 jk'^^^a-i: . ^I. St. Louis Gate. in their tour, remain twenty-four hours, and then return without seeing anything but a cursory view of the city, whereas Quebec and its environs abound in the most romantic and charming views, certainly not equalled in Canada, and to all admirers of the beauties of nature affording a rich treat. There is scarcely a foot here which is doings live for ever in the burningf pages, of Parkman, Lever, Cormazien, Charlevoix, and Casgrain, have left behind them here monuments of their zeal for the cause of religion and father- land, or immortalized the sod which once they trod, the soil for which they fiercely contended, the spot where first they planted the symbol of religion, or 63 OUTINGS IN CANADA. the dust which they reddened with their blood. And tlie tourist will often be satisfied that he lias seen Quebec by casting' a MONTKICAL AND QUEHEC BICYCLE CLUBS AT THE Natural steps, .iloNTMORENcv Falls. hurried glance at the Plains of Abraham, " a study in itself where the destiny of Canada was settled, and immortalized as the spot where the Generals of both armies i;ave up their lives in their deeds of valor." Who has not read in the history of the «ifreat nations of the death upon the battle field of the Plains of Abraham, of the heroic Wolfe and the brave Montcalm. A glance at this historic spot and the ordinary tourist is satisfied. Then a rapid drive in the traditional caliche over streets rendered historic by the blood of heroes and martyrs, the red man's daring deods, and carefully preserved traditions of the historian and novelist, and he has seen Quebec. The city itself and its immediate vicinity have afforded new and varied treats at every turn for several weeks at a time to royal and noble visitors, such as the Prince of Wales, the Duke of Albany and York, the Princess Louise and other members of the Koyal Family, as also such noted novelists and historians as Parkman, Howells, Kerby, Archdeacon Farrar, Dean Stanley, and many others whose names stand high on the roll of fame or of letters. Having now opened to you this channel by which one may educate himself upon a better knowledge of Quebec and its natural and historical attractions, let me tell you that the hospitable and genial Quebecer having awakened to the fact that we possessed one of the most attractive points upon this continent, and knowing that be- sides sight-seeing the ordin.-iry tourist requires comfort, more than ordinary attention has been given of late to its hotel accommodat'on unsurpassed at present in Canada and that without ill the least affecting its historical qiiaintness. Amongst our notable hostelries, let me mention the now famous "Chateau Frontenac," built by the magnates of the C. P. R. upon one of the most beautiful sites in the world, besides being built on the site of the "Chateau St. Louis," the residence of the French governors in the times of the old regime in Canada, overlooking the magnificent promenade Duflferin Ter- race, and although some two hundred feet above the River St. Lawrence, nestling in the shadows of the citadel, the Gibi altar of America. To the guest of the " Frontenac," a glance from any one of its windows reveals a magnificent view which spreads itself around and below, and satisfies him Martello Tower. that he has scenery before him seldom equalled and never excelled, which forms the subject of many a noted canvas and upon which eminent artists QUEBEC. 63 have feasted their eyes day after day for months tofjethcr. The late Henry Ward Beecher re- corded his impressions of Quebec thus : " Queer old Quebec! of all the cities on the Continent of America. Here the quaint old city, a ride to Cape Rou^'e is quite in order, out by St. Louis Road, which overlooks the beautiful St. Law- rence and back by the St. Toye Road overlooking-- the valley of theSt. Charles. Alonj,-- this route some fifteen miles of a was a small piece of medianal Europe ride mav be seen many noted historical perched upon a rock and dried for spots, such as Wolfe's Monument, the keeping,' in this north-east corner of Plainsof Abraham, theMartelloTowers, America, a curiosity that has not its Spencerwood (the residence of the equal in its kind on this side of the Governor). SelleryVilla^-e, Cape Rouj^^e, ocean. We rode around as if we were the spot where Jacques Cartier and his in a picture book, turninj,' over a new little band first wintered at Quebec, the leaf at each street." Villat,-e of St. Tove, and the Ste. Tove Ag'd\n I wonder in my dream of Monuments, the 'scene of the battle Quebec's history, and could cite you the between General Levis and Murray, The Chateau Frontenac-Vilvv of Dufferin Terrace and the Citadel. impressions of many noted men which would fill volumes. So much for our natural attractions, but what about the belated bicyclist lookingf up a new field for his summer tour. To you brother cyclists who come from the west by way of Montreal, south by way of Portland v/a Sherbrooke, Meg-antic and Beauce County, and f»-om the west through New Brunswick and other points, let me advise you to arrange your tours in such a way as to spend at least ten days in and around Quebec. After visiting the points of interest in where the French general after defeat- ing the F^iglish army actually tried to recapture Quebec. Many are the rides around Quebec with historical attractions as great as this one, such as to the Calvaire, " the highway to Montreal;" the Indian Vil- lage and Falls of Lorette, to Charles- burg and Lakes St. Charles and Beau- port, "abounding with trout;" to Chateau Bigot," another historical relic mentioned in "The Golden Dog;" to the shrine of St. Annes, " world re- nowned for its faith cures, and visited by some ten to fifteen thousands of per- sons daily during the summer months," 64 OUTINGS IN CANADA. a route unsurpassed for its great attrac- tions, such as Fort Jacques Cartier, where the discoverer of Quebec was camped during- the winters of 1535 and 36; the ruins of the Beauport Manor House, and headquarters of Montcalm in 1759, where Wolfe first attacked the French army ; the birthplace of the brave Desaliberry, the hero of Chateau- guay ; the Montmorency Falls, so gra- phically described by Bouchette. Over a precipice of 251 feet in height fall the waters of the Montmorency River form- ing a large sheet of water of a white- ness and fleecy appearance which re- thing hut fine, yet local cyclists live through the ordeal and are great hill climbers in consequence, but you speak of country roads, we challenge Canada and the U.S. to produce better macad- amized highways. To the tourist with plenty of ^time and money to spare, there are^ still attractions not to be overlooked, such as our fishing grounds, and when I mention Lake St. John many a cyclist, who is also a follower of Izaak Walton, will feel a longing sensation come over him. Ouananiche, the dwarf salmon, and he rises to the fly. So much sa Monument of the Ukaves, St. Toye Road. sembles snow falling in a chasm amongst the rocks below. The pretty village of Beauport, said to be the longest in Canada, where a distinct class of people retaining all their originality of the French peasant of Britanny are to be found. Chateau Richer and Arys Gardeau are passed at a 2.30 gait, as from the height of the Montmorency Falls one may coast some six miles down a beautiful slope. Our next point of interest was St. Henri, which is so well-known that I need not describe it, but suffice it to say that here is a study worth coming to Quebec alone to see. The city streets in Quebec are anv- good, but what about the thirty Fish and Game Clubs along this route, and now the favorite resort of many wealthy Americans and Canadian members of the Montmorency, Jacques Cartier, Tourelli, Little Saguenay, Laurentide, Stadacona, Mutabrechon'an, Parodice, Springfield, Penn, Treton, and other im- portant F. aiulG. clubs. These are stand- ing proofs of our fishing and hunting grounds being unsurpassed in Canada. Again, the trip around the famed Saguenay by way of Lake St. John, which also has its chateau in the '^ Hotel Roberval," one of the finest in Canada, is another evidence of our fine surroundings. QUEBEC. To the cycling- tourist let me give one word of advice. Before visiting Quebec lead about it ; there are many- works upon Quebec, such as Lemoine's Quebec, Past and Present ; Chambers' Guide to Quebec, "Tiie Golden Dog," Kirby, which will educate one as to its beauties. Then you can begin to appreciate our unrivalled resources, and leave us feeling that you have really " seen Quebec and are prepared to die." Let this be every cyclist's motto, and we will try and give you a good time in the bargain. Very sincerely and fraternally yours, George Van Kelson. The spot whekk (.inikm. W'h 1 1 was sk kiali.v wounded UPON THE Plains ok Ahraham. um %umi ®p (Ei(Q)iffinaM mm " nnOUGH ! Water no good. Make n Indian heap cold," and Joseph, '-''-' with a thirty pound rock in his hands slips over the side of the canoe into twenty feet of clear cold water. A few seconds and his head bobs up alongside. Another "whutf" tents and make thing^s comfortable for a couple of weeks' loaf. Obliging and good natured people of Parry Sound, distant about six miles, had sent our supplies down on a tug. Joseph, our Indian, we had hired as cook, guide, and leader of laziness. We were a TUNNKL AT Jack Fish, Lake Sui'erior, C.P.R. and'^he quickly shoves two quart bottles of beer over the side and swims ashore with the craft in tow. We had been on Snake Island but a few days. Choosing it out of the thous- ands which line the north shore, we had cleared enough of it to pitch our party of five, and were a well balanced assortment. The heat of the day had a deteriorat- ing effect on the temperature of our bottled beer, and with the philosophical reasoning of a scientist, one of the brainy members devised a scheme of GEORGIAN BAY. 67 sinking- a dozen in twenty feet of water with strings attached to a big- anchored log. At the bottom the cold under current kept the beer as cold as if on ice. A passing- tug, however, bunted the log and broke all the strings and the nearest we could get to our beer was to sit in our boat and gaze at the shining foil on the corks twenty feet below. Money would not coax Joseph to dive for them, but the promise of one out of every three he recovered soon moved him, and though an Indian hates water, he performed the stone tricks creditably and with results bene- ficial to all parties. Only those who have passed through, or tarried along this north shore, have any idea of the wild nature of the scenery. Every mile has a hundred different changes. Islands, countless apparently in number, from a mere rock with perhaps but a single tree on it, to a stately island of many acres with shere rocky sides with water enough alongside for a man of war to tie up to. , Everywhere is that grand quiet of nature, save perhaps for a cry- ing loon who floats in and out among the islands. If you are sailing or pad- dling, at any moment you are apt to disturb a pair or flock of black ducks or teal, who splash along the water ahead of you. Often a deer is seen leisurely swimming from island to island, while again a big black head and shoulders, leaving a wash behind it like a propeller, will indicate a black bear makii^g for the mainland after a visit to some neighboring island. Everywhere and anywhere are fish. Sit on any of the islands and within six feet of some part of it you will find deep black water suggestive of bass. And what bass ! Not the kind that gives up the game as soon as hooked, but bass that try to get you into the water just as hard as you try to get them on land. In marshy spots near the main- land, pike and pickerel, and sometimes two pound perch are only waiting to give you a fight if you troll by them. In the deep channel water are salmon trout, which, when brought up from the depths, are as cold as ice and fight only as salmon trout can. Perhaps you have tried frog fishing. Take a small hook baited with a bit of red flannel, a small pole and line. Paddle noiselessly up one of the small creeks, whose reflective mirror-like surface makes you think you are spoil- ing it as your boat parts the water. On a log or lily pad you see the frog. Not a little tree toad, but a big green or brown fellow weighing over a pound. Dangle the flannel hook a foot from Taken kkom Life after Death. THIS IS NO Fish Storv. his nose, a jump, a splash, and as you raise him into the boat you will notice his fore feet or hands have a tight hold of the line to keep the hook pressure off his mouth. What a pair of legs he has, three pair of which make a meal that you would push a roasted spring chicken aside to get at. Perhaps your fancy turns to gunning. Take a trip along the second growth maple and put up a bevy of partridge. There they are in a big tree, six or 68 OUTINGS IN CANADA. eijj'ht of them. Now take careful aim with your 32 and "snip" off the head of the one in the lowest branch. Chances are all in your favor that none will fly away. They bob their heads this way and that, and wait their turn. If you shoot the top one his falling body will disturb those underneath, but if you take the lowest, perhaps, if you are cruel, you can bag the whole bevy. Again, one runs along the path ahead of you, stops twenty yards away and invites you to take a crack. People up there can take their heads off at thirty yards every time. There is other game there, mosquitoes, black flies and snakes. None of these will kill you, and the latter are the most harmless of any. Anyone who want.sto pull good pure air into his lungs, to fish, hunt, and be free for days and weeks can find no better place than on Georgian Bay. You can leave Toronto in the morning and be in camp the same evening. G.H.O., Toronto. Banff Hotel and Pari^, C.P.K. ^ %mn EW BRUNSWICK has a variety Y\ of inducements to offer the > tourist. Among the many at- .i " tractions are her deHghtfully cool cHmate, ever varying- scenery, facilities for fishing, canoeing and camping, and quite good roads for cycling. The thermometer seldom goes above 85 in the inland towns, and only occasionally that high, while along the vince of Quebec, following the old military road down into New Brunswick, thence following the St. John River through to St. John, a distance of 325 miles. The first sixty miles to Notre Dame du Lac is through an unsettled district, composed mostly of French-speaking people, and good food is not always obtainable. The last twenty-five miles Bav Shore. sea coast 75 is the average. Good hotels are to be found mostly every- where. The best months for touring are July, August and September. In the latter month the trees have received their autumnal tints and present a very pretty appearance. A very delightful wheeling trip is to start at Riviere du Loup, in the Pro- of this trip has considerable hill-climb- ing, and is the hardest part of all. The ride from Notre C/ame du Lac to Edmunston is mostly down hill and level, the roads being excellent. The distance is thirty miles. The next important stopping place is Grand Falls, forty miles. Of course the greatest attraction here is the falls and gorge. The water drops about 70 OUTINGS IN CANADA. forty feet and then goes surginj^ and pluny;ing down through a narrow wall of rocks towering seventy-five to one hundred feet high. The roar is deafen- ing, making the carrying on of con- versation rather difficult. Paths lead down into the gorge where one can wander around to suit their own sweet will. The roads from Grand F"alls to Andover, 25 miles, are good, with some fine coasts. The scenery is charming. Perley's hotel is the best stopping place. If one desires to visit electric lights, having a fire depart- ment, etc. The ride from Woodstock to Fred- ericton had better be made in a day, as there are no good stopping places between. The distance is sixty-four miles, and dinner can be had at the Halfway House, thirty-three miles from Woodstock. The road follows the various windings of the river and ever presents new and charming scenes. Twelve miles from Woodstock the village of Eel River, or Canterbury, as it is sometimes called, is passed through. Mouth of the Grand Metis River. Lord Mountstephen's Fishing Lodge in the Distance. American soil, a run of about fourteen miles takes you to Fort Fairfield, Me. From Andover to Florenceville, 25 miles, there is a choice of two routes, one keeping on the same side of the river that Andover is on, the other crossing the river at Andover and riding down the opposite side until Florenceville station is reached, when you re-cross the river, and after a steep climb enter Florenceville. The next stopping-place is Wood- stock, 25 miles. This is a busy little town, quite modern, being lighted with Thirteen miles further along Poquiock is reached. The road here spans a deep ravine by an iron bridge, which is a wild bit of scenery, and is well worth dismounting for. The country all along is thickly pop ulated, while numerous drinking troughs will be found every few miles. Fredericton is a beautifully situated city on the west bank of the River St. John. It contains the Parliament Buildings, Norma! Scliool, University, and the Infantry School. St. John can be reached by two dif- NEW BRUNSWICK. 71 ferent routes, one folIowing^ the river, the otlier leaving the river a short distance below Fredericton and g'oinj,^ inland, meetinj^ the river aj^ain at Westfield, sixteen miles from St. John. Distance by former road is ninety-four miles, by the latter sixty-five miles. If one desires he can take the steamer from Fredericton and have a sail down the St. John, called the Rhine of America. For natural scenery it is said to stand unrivalled on the American continent. St. John is the lar^-est city in the Maritime Provinces. It is situated on according- to the flow or ebb of the tide. This peculiarity is caused as follows : At low tide the river, which is 500 miles long, is forced to empty itself through a narrow rocky gorge into the sea. As the tide comes in, which rises and falls between thirty and forty feet, the force of the water from the Bay of Fundy backs the river up hill as rapidly as it was running down but a short time be- fore. At slack or half tide, the water is perfectly smooth and navigable. Rockwood Park, containing a lake a mile and a half in circumference, is situated on the north side of the city. Nerk'.'is Stream, St. John Rivek. a hill and slopes on all sides to the water. It contains many fine buildings, among which are the Custom Pouse, City Building, Post Office, Bank of Montreal, and Market Building. The churches compare favorably with those of other cities, and Centenary (Method- ist), Trinity (Episcopal), St. Andrew's (Presbyterian), and the Cathedral (Catholic), are worth visiting. Fine views of the city can be had from Fort Howe, Mount Pleasant, and Lancaster Heights. The falls of the St. John are worth going miles to see. They run both ways and is one of the famous spots for the citizens to stroll. On Sunday it is visited by large crowds. Another favorite spot is Bay Shore, situated in the west end, about two miles from the city. It has an elegant beach so that those who wish it can indulge in sea bathing. •<( The space allotted to New Brunswick will not admit of enumerating all the attractions that St. John and vicinity offers for the enjoyment of the tourist, but as the Canadian Wheelmen's Asso- ciation is largely represented, any of the members would be pieased to see visitors and show them around. 7a OUTINGS IN CANADA. Another charming trip is along" the North Shore, which is widely known for its salmon fivhing. Starting from Campbellton, ou the Metapedia Ri\ ?r, and wheeling to Shediac, a distance of about 250 miles, is one of the finest trips for the bicycle in New Brunswick. The road for the first 150 miles follows the coast and has an excellent surface, free from hills, and, being close to the salt water, splendid opportunities are afforded for sea bathing. For those that like fishing there are lots of small streams that abound in trout, informa- tion concerning which can be had from mostly any of the hotel keepers along the route. The roads from Shediac to St. John, about 140 miles, are fair and pass very fertile part of the pro- a through vince. Another Stephen to St. John, a distance of about pleasant trip is from St. 125 miles. The road runs through St. Andrews, a famous watering place and summer resort with a large hotel, the Algonquin, and through St. George, where there are large red granite quar- ries. For Americans to reach St. John lliere are four routes, viz.: 1 . Take the steamer of the Yarmouth Steamship Line to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, thence the Dominion Atlantic Railway to Digby, then via the steamer Ci'/y of Monticello to St. John. 2. By rail direct, starting at either the Boston & Main or Eastern depots. 3. By the boats of the International Steamship Company, sailing from Com- mercial wharf direct for St. John, call- ing at Portland and Eastport, Maine. 4. International steamer to Eastport, Maine, then wheeling to St. Stephen, about 30 miles, over good roads, then following the tripSt. Stephen toSt.John. Grand Metis Falls. raAiiiE K»[« Another Battle of Bru. Rin. HAVE just come in from a forty- mile run over Ontario roads and sit '-' down to tell you of wheelinj^ on the prairie. This mornin'j's ride is the only one I have had the pleasure of enjoying' in this Eastern Province thus far. Of course I have had several before I followed Horace Greeley's advice and went west, but they were principally in baby carriages. We covered typical Ontario roads this morning, and now, after having- a bath, being rubbed down labor up others on the return journey that 1 never remembered going down. However, out of some four thousand odd elevations that figured in the ride, we coasted twice and that was grand. But as I am writing- for eastern people, I need not enlarge on it. A wind figured materially in this morning's enjoyment, but as there was a g-enerous distribution of trees along the road it was on the whole no serious detriment to ease, while it aided materially in making Old Mahogany Island, N. b. and fixing- myself up in other ways, I say most emphatically — g-ive me the prairie. My chief objection to these roads is that the rubbing was about the only "down" thing I had in connec- tion with the trip. All the roads seem- ed to be up, and I cannot imagine where the hills I climbed in going- were when I returned. As I reached the top of each successive one I condoled myself with visions of grand coastings on the way home, but instead of that I had to Sol's fierce attacks less objectionable. But to come to the prairies (as the C. W. A. is going- to do in '98). The chief feature of them, of course, is the almost total absence of hills. For hun- dreds, and in certain directions thous- ands of miles, the cyclist can spin along- the trails without encountering any per- ceptible elevation that will increase his work or retard his speed. In some districts of Manitoba there are plenty of hills that would make an eastern 74 OUTINGS IN CANADA. man homesick, and in cases where these occur the scenery is very beautiful. But if the mountainous districts, for such liierc are, present a too ru,t;}^ed appear- ance for the rider, they can be avoided, still leavinj^ hundreds of thousands of perfectly level square mites upon which to fly around. But of more importance than the hills roads of the country, are in grand shape for wheelin{>f. They are just as wide as a waj^on and the smooth surface is composed of a very thin layer of soft soil that makes one think he is riding" over velvet and causes the wheels to {iflide alonj,*- with no perceptible noise. Under this sprinklinj^ of loam, which in no way impedes the progress of the Below Bridge, Grand Falls, N. B. is the condition of the roads. In this also we shine, that is if they are good, for if they are not — well, I would rather take Ontario's hills again. But for the greater part of a Manitoba summer the trails, the old ones upon which Indians have travelled for untold generations, but which are now thegenerally accepted bicycle, is the regulation clay as hard and smooth as concrete. For miles and miles you pedal along these true wheelmen's roads, around you the prairie stretches in every direction, as level as a billiard table and with nothing except perhaps a stray settler's cabin here and there between you and the PRAIRIE RIDING. 75 horizon; whicliever way you looii the imiumerablo prairie flowers min^'le tlieir fragrance wilii the cool bree/es, coveys of prairie chickens talf him some thirty feet behind, his better (give it the dic- tionary meaning) half, with a huge bundle across her back. A grunt is exchanged for your cheerful salutation, and on you i:;o, to meet, a few miles farther along, another specimen of the noble red man, squatting, with his whole family, in a carl, the make up of which does not include a piece of metal even as large as a pin head ; a small pony, noted for its remarkable powers of endurance, jogs contentedly along with its owner's family and total posses- sions, and pays no attention to you as you turn out on the grass to let them pass. All these Indians are road hogs, but it is so little trouble to turn out that no one ev^er trys to bring them up to nineteenth century civilization. In the evening a spin over a prairie trail is delightful. Away in the west the sun is lingering about the horizon as if it were loath to leave the peace- ful plains ; your shadow grows longer and longer, till at last you cannot see the end of it ; then the sun disappears, but lightness remains, and you can ride on for fully two hours after sunset before it is too dark to read an ordinary newspaper. These long twilights are wonderful, and add very much to a prairie ride. In the evening, too, there is rarely a breath of wind to disturb the soothing quiet of the atmosphere. In my estimation the only drawback to prairie riding is the severity of the winds. They are not always blowing, but when they are they doubly discount any novice after winning his first victory. You can readily see how this is. If a small breeze starts to blow himself some 'steen hundred miles from you, and comes howling across the prairies where there is nothing much bigger than a dandelion to check his progress, he can generally be counted on to be leading a pretty fast life by the time he makes your acquaintance. When you come face to face it's hard work to cut him, so just turn back on him wi'l, the remark, "Well, / 7/ be Mowed !" It's the easiest way out of it. On the whole, however, it is very seldom one has to postpone a cross country ride on account of the wind. Prairie riding is noi all that Winni- peggers have to offer their c\cling guests. There are some splendid routes on the Ontario plan, witii just a little bit of Manitoba scenerv thrown in as a Rothesay Falls, N.B. relish honey as it were, a sauce to sugar. A beautiful ride is along the banks of the historic Red River, " the links of its long red chain " leading through forest land which forms the eastern boundary of the immense prairies stretching from there to the Rocky Mountains. In Southern Mani- toba, too, there is some magnificent scenery. The Lakes of Killarney in that district, rival in their beauty the far-famed lakes of the same name that lie nestled in the mountainous heights of the Emerald Isle. The Turtle 7b OUriNGS IN CANADA. Mouiitaiii rof^ion is not lacking- In landscape beauty. Innunierablo other places mijjflit be mentioned that liave delij^'iitfui attractions to offer a travelHnj^ wheeUnan. AN INCIHENT. But I must not tire Canadian readers with a description of what tiiev will see in '98, or American readers with a de- scription of what they have in their own North-West. I will proceed to fjive, by — ahem! — special request, afew pages from my note book. You will lind there is always a woman in the case. But as we never do things by halves in the West, there are some billions of them in this particular case. Bkidge and Falls, Sr. John, N.H. When, at the most enjoyable C. W. A. banquet in Toronto last Good Friday, I rose to champion the cause of the wliole better half of mankind, I related a little incident which had no connection with the toast, but which helped to fill in the time. Its recitation resulted in a request to put it on paper. I don't know what I've done to deserve such a fate, but here goes. Jack, Bob, — that's all you need know about them— and myself started out last fall to see the wild and wooly west. In Winnipeg, of course we conside. ed our- selves in the East. We went some thousand odd miles toward the setting sun and in course of a most delightful month's outing met with an experience that few wheelmen have had the fortune, or misfortune to enjoy. We started one fine morning to ride from Lethbridge to Fort McLeod, a point forty miles across the country. We were advised not to take the shorter road as the immense herds of wild cattle that infested it made it an extremely dangerous one to navigate. Oi' course we thought the boys were "beeiing" us. We guaranteed them we would keep out of the way of these blood thirsty creatures. This confidence was given us when we were told that the cattle belonged to ranchers, in which case, in our estimation, they could not be very formid- able enemies. But, as we found out afterwards, their free and easy life on the plains was not at all conducive to their civilization. We had proceeded some fifteen miles on our way and had forded a stream, which, by the way, possessed extreme ly high and steep banks. We had gone but a short distance on the other side when we saw the cattle. I never thought that there were as many in the world as covered the prairie for miles on both sides of the trail. We rode slowly towards them, Jack leading. Bob next, and I bring- ing up the rear and the dust. The cattle did not manifest any great curiosity in our approach and we rode on between them until we saw the open prairie ahead of us. It was rather a ticklish ride. There seemed to be about five miles of them and they had a most uncomfortable habit of staring at us as we gradually increased our speed. We were just congratulating ourselves that the "wild" racket was, after all, a joke, when one old bull trotted up the trail behind us, the others closing in about six hundred deep as we progressed. This was ominous. I became a little 'RAIRIK RIDINd. 77 nervous, so asked I he otlu-r fellows if they didn't feel like spurting'- a little, as the road was fine, etc. Tliey aj^rectl with woiKlerfiil alacrity, so olT we went. So did the bull, so did the whole caval- cade. Tiien the bull roared, so did the whole ca\alcade. When they com- menced merely to tune up, and scrape and saw and key up the instruments, ! thou^-ht the whole Rock) Mountain ranj^^e had exploded, but when the baton was raised and the Real concert bej,'-an I thought well, I stopped thinking; I couldn't do it justice. Then we made another spurt. So did the bull. So did the whole cavalcade. Then we fairly flew. So did the bull. So did the whole cavalcade. We thought our last hour had come. So did the bull. So did the whole cavalcade. \'ou talk about bicycle riding! My opinion of Zimmerman, Sanger, Johnson, and the whole outfit of them, dwindled into nothing as we ne- gotiated ihe distance be- tween life and death. Jack led and Bob was glued to his rear wheel while you couldn't drop a spoke between Hob and me. I had my head down and looked under my arm. That old bull was covering the ground at a 1.52I clip. He was pacing the others, and as I looked again I saw about four million tails pointing heavenward, evidently warning us as to what our fate was to be. The bellowing was kept up with ever in- creasing volume. The novelty of our situation was forgotten in the consider- ation of its danger. On we sped, but the bull was always just about fifty yards from me and it seemed that the right and left wings of his army were closing in on us. For some time, about seven hours I should think, I confined all my attention to sticking to Bob's rear wheel. Then I took another look at Mr. Bull, the villain still pursued us. He was after us. We certainly were the inilividuals he required. His c.iudal appendage was still erect, and with it he was transmitting message in the sign language to his followers. The thunderous iu)ise of their hoofs, tlieir blood curdling warwhoops, and the dense clouds oi dust blended into one fearful whole that made us smash records "n a most extravagant manner. We had records to sell, records to give away, records to loan and records to burn. So had the bull. So had the whole cavalcade. They were the swift- est company I ever encountered. Well, we continued to fly. Jack and Bob setting a pace for me that would make a world's champion turn green MisPECK Falls, N.H. with envy. The bull had evidently decided to be in it at the finish as he was sawing wood in a wonderful manner. The trail was a very crooked one. For some unaccountable rejison all prairie trails are crooked. The Indians, when they first made them, were evidentlv not aware of the ireo- metrical fact that a straight line is the shorest distance between two points. This m;\de our flight more diflficult, and if the bull and his cohorts had not been so well up in racing rules and had cut the corners, we wouldn't have known, as Louis Rubenstein says, "which moment would have been our next." 78 OUTINGS IN CANADA. It would have been all up with us. We kept it up mile after mile, and it began to look as if the milk-produciny quadrupeds were going' to t.tay at it until we reached the Rocky Mountains. As we progressed, the gait became more regular and both parties settled down to steady work. Our wheels flew along the splendid path and we pedalled with the earnestness that the thought of impending doom alone could impart. A fall would undoubtedly have meant a horrible death. As a knell, came the thundering cavalcade behind. Thev swung along with extraordinary speed, for the free and easy life on the plains had made them, as all such cattle are, excellent runners. When we became somewhat used to the deafening noise, we could hear each other speaking. We expressed our- selves as able to keep it up a while longer, butwould rather that ourfriends, the enemy, see the error of their ways and call a halt. Jack peered at me from under his arm and evidently seeing my dried-up, dust-covered face, asked, "Are you thirsty?" Horrible thought ! Was I thirsty ? My mouth was parched and had a lining of dust several layers thick. We were all thirsty, and — thank" Heaven — so was the bull. So was the whole cavalcade. That old disgrace of the bovine race was thirsty and thought he had done enough work for one morn- ing. 1 watched with pleasure his tail come down by degrees. The others followed suit, the gallop slowed to a canter, it to a trot, then to a walk. They stopped. So did we. Mr. Bull looked at us for a moment, shook his head, then turned right about face. As he did so the trail was cleared and he trotted between his ranks and as before they closed in behind him. You can imagine with what interest we watched this. In the run after us the weaker cattle had fallen to the rear, so when the whole crowd had filed through the opening and began going the other way these poor specimens were next to us. Then we had our revenge. Jack started out after the herd, and yelling at the top of his voice started a stam- pede in the rear rank. This soon spread, and as we stood and laughed at the spectacle, we had the pleasure of seeing the tired animals running for all that was in them towards the stream. They were soon lost to view in a cloud of dust, but for a long time the drum- ming on the ground taught u' that they were still in a great hurry about something. We found a farm house some ten miles up the trail. We were badly in need ot one. A good shower bath under the pump, and a liberal supply of buttermilk fixed us up. We felt fine. In fact, and it is a fact, it was that afternoon that Jack made the accepted records that now lead at certain dis- tances in Canada, and practically en- titles him to the championship of Canada at these distances. But no wonder he went fast that day. I was very sorry I did not take a crack at the world's record myself. We sat around a crock of buttermilk and discussed the incident. We decided to keep it a dark secret, because nobody would believe cattle could keep up with a wheelman. But, take my word for it, that was the most athletic crowd of animals I ever struck. They were Westerners, and no mistake. Jack proposed the toast of Mr. Bull and his friends. We drank it in buttermilk. We decided that we had had a bully ride. We also thought that if we had been caught b> those frightful looking horns we would have had a high old time. So did the bull. So did the whole cavalcade. Welkord W. Beaton. w yq pVHE "Land ot Evai.g-eline" region stands pre-eminent among the many picturesque localities with -^ which Nova Scotia abounds. Leaving St. John, N.B., on the steamer Montecello we cross the Bay of Fundy, and after a passage of four hours we sight the Nova Scotian shore — and passing through the Gut we arrived at Digby. This is a favorite watering place, situated on Annapolis Basin, and is crowded with American tourists during the summer months. From here a trip westward, sixty miles, to Yarmouth will well repay the tourist. Two "Greyhound" steamers make four weekly trips between Boston and Yar- mouth, bringing thousands of visitors into Nova Scotia during the warm weather. Yarmouth is noted for the beautiful drives in the vicinity. The surrounding country abounds in noted lakes. Its hard gravel roads make cycling a pleasure. Leaving Yarmouth we turn eastward again, and following the coast along St. Mary's Bay we ride over the finest roads in the province. We make ». short slop a Weymouth to view the pretty country, and passing on we are shortly again at Digby, having toured over sixty miles of one of the finest trips in the province and on perfect roads. If the tourist so desires, he may take the D. A. R, "Flying Bluenose" from Yarmouth to Halifax, passing through all the noted places the same as though mounted on a cycle. The main post road and the railway are in sight of each other a good part of the journey from Yarmouth to Halifax. Leaving Digby we skirt the shores of the Annapolis Basin, which eclipses the old world charms of the Bay of Naples, passing through the cherry district of Bear River. The scenery at Bear River is beautiful. It is known as the "Switzerland of Nova Scotia." After a run of twenty miles, from Digby along the Basin's shore, we arrive at Annapolis, once the capital of Nova Scotia, and the second oldest town on the continent. Here will be found the ruins of the famous old French fort. After departing from Annapolis, the tourist follows the charming Annapolis River for miles, passing through pretty villages. At the picturesque town of Bridgetown we leave the Annapolis River and follow the North Mountain for over sixty miles through this noted valley. The Annapolis Valley is "a garden" over a hundred miles long, in which cold north and west winds are shut out by the North Mountain. At Wilmot will be found the popular Spa Springs. Pass- ing on through thriving towns and villages we arrive at Kentville, the headquarters of the Dominion Atlantic Railway. A run of seven miles further on brings you to Wolfville, the seat of Acadia University. The tourist will be well paid by stopping here a day or two and taking in the beautiful surrounding country. A side run of nine miles to Canning, over the meadows, near Minas Basin, will be long remembered. Four miles from Canning is the " Look off" on the North Mountain. A view from this point will greatly repay anyone. Five counties in Central Nova Scotia may be seen on a clear day. A mile or two distant is old Cape Blomi- don, the extremity of the North Moun- tain. Below, at your feet, is Minas Basin, while further away is Minas Channel, which enters the Bay of F'undy. Away to the east is Cobequid Bay, while in the extreme south is the mouth of the Avon. Three miles from Wolfville is the pretty Village of Grand Pre, the home of Evangeline. Here the tourist may linger a day seeing the old well and many other points of interest. Two 8o OUTINGS IN CANADA. miles south of Wolfville is the old valley of the Gaspereau. This should not be missed by the tourist. The Gaspereau River winds throughout the narrow valley. After a run of eighteen miles through a pretty country, we arrive at the old historic town of Windsor— on the banks of the Avon. This town was settled by the Acadians in 1703. Here may be seen the old home of "Sam Slick." It is also the seat of King's College, founded in 1789. None should visit Windsor without seeing the old Block House, Fort Edward —the last in the province. Three miles from Windsor, on the St. Croix River, are the immense Gypsum Quarries, of the Wentworth Gypsum Company. These quarries are the largest on the continent. The Avon River here rises and falls forty feet, and the "bore" can be seen and heard daily at the turn of the tide. LeavingWindsor and passing through several villages the tourist will arrive at Halifax, forty-six miles distant. The approach to Halifax is beautiful, the road winding along for nine or ten miles by tlie side of the charming Bedford Basin. Halifax itsei is worth crossing the continent to see. Its harbor is one of the finest in the world. Among the most noted places to see are the citadel and the surrounding forts, the public gardens, the beautiful park, north-west arm, and other noted points of interest. Leaving Halifax, passingbyGrand LakeandShubenacadie River we arrive at Truro, sixty-four miles distant. Truro is one of the new growing provincial towns; on the out- skirts of the town is Victoria Park, one of the finest picturesque parks in the province. After leaving Truro the tourist passes through New Glasgow, a large manu- facturing town, and.Antigonish, the seat of St. Francois Xavier's College, and further on to Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. Here the steamer is waiting to take you across the Strait and land you at Point Tupper, on the Cape Breton shore. The tourist will find the scenery very fine from Point Tupper to the Bras d'Or Lakes of the beautiful Bras d'Or Lakes we can only say that they are to be seen to be appreciated. The road gracefully benda around and along the shores of th." lake. At Grand Narrows the lake is crossed, and then after a pretty run through some of the most perfect scenery in America, we reach Sydney. Here we find immense steamers loading coal for the leading ports of the Dominion and of the United States ; continuing our journey we make a pleasant ride of some twenty miles and arrive at the old town of Louisburg. Remaining here for a day or two, the tourist will be shown the noted places of interest. If you do not care to wheel back to Truro, you may take the train from Louisburg to Point Tupper, then steamer across Strait of Canso, and train from Port Mulgrave to Truro, passing over the same ground as going by the m;iin post road. "Sam Slick's" Home, W^indsok, N.S. Leaving Truro we turn northerly and climbing the Cobequid Mountains we are soon at Amherst. The I. C. R. follows the post road closely from Truro to Moncton, Cumberland Basin, and arm of the Bay of P'undy is only two miles distant from Amherst. A very interest- ing ride is that from Amherst to Moncton, crossing the famous Tuitra- marre Marsh and the ship railway. Passing through theMcmramcook Valley the "bore" of the river which comes with the turn of the tide is three feet high. We now pass by St. Joseph's College and Dorchester Penitentiary, and a few miles further on we reach Moncton, the headquarters of the I.e. R., and having the past few miles been riding in the province of New Brunswick. OUTINGS IN CANADA. 81 WTa mm The arrangement of hotels in the alpliabetical order of the cities and towns has been made as being most convenient to tourists. Those in display type have taken advertising space elsewhere, to which we would refer the reader more particularly. Rates quoted are wheelmen's rates, and in many instances are a reduction from the regular tariff. They have been selected with special reference to their ability to best cater to the wants of travellers ; and where two or more hotels in the same town appear with different rates, each repre- sents the best of its class. Town or City. Hotel. Amherst, N.S Terrace Hotel Amherstburg, Ont Lake View Hotel Antifjonish N.S Central House Aurora, Ont Royal Hotel Aylmer, Ont Brown House (P. 84) Harrie, Ont Queen's Hotel Helleville, Ont Hotel Quinte Berlin, Ont Walper House Bowman ville, Ont Hennett House Brampton, Ont yueen's Hotel Brantford, Ont Kerby House Brockville, Ont Revere House Canipbellton.N.B Royal Hotel Carleton Place, Ont.. .Mississippi Chatham, Ont Hotel Garner Coboursj, Ont Dunham House Collinifwood, Ont Grand Central Cornwall, Ont Rossmore Dundas, Ont Riley House Essex, Ont The Aberdeen Fredericton, N.B Baker House Oalt, Ont Imperial (Pagey).... Gait, Ont Baker House Gananoque, Ont (iamble's Internat'nl Goderich, Ont Albion Guelph, Ont Royal Hotel Halifax, N.S Albion Hotel Hamilton, Ont Royal ( Page g2) Humber, Nr. Toronto, Nurse's Hotel (P. 83) InffersoU, Cut .\t la 11 tic House Kingston, Ont Frontenac (I'age 45) Lindsay, Ont Benson House London, Ont Tecumseth House... Lunenberg, N.S King's Hotel London, Ont tJrigg House neaford, Ont Maul's Hotel (P. a).. Monet on, N.B Hotel Brunswick Montreal, yue Windsor Mt. Forest Queen's Newcastle, N.B Commerce House . . New (ilasgow, N.S. . . Windsor Hole] Newcastle, Ont Royal Hotel Napanee, Ont Paisley House Napanee, Ont Campbell House Niagara Falls, Ont IJufferin Restaurant, meals so cents. Oakvllle, Ont International (P. 92) Orangeville, Ont Queen's Rate. $2 .00 I 50 2 ■ 00 I .00 I .00 I •50 2 .00 I ■50 1 ■50 I 00 2 00 2 .00 2 (X> I ■50 2 .00 I •50 I .50 2 00 1 .00 [ 00 2 00 I 50 1 00 I 50 1 50 I 50 I SO 2 50 I 00 T 50 2 110 I 50 I 50 2 00 I 50 I 00 2 00 4 CX) 1 50 2 00 2 00 I 00 I. 50 I . 50 I. 00 $'. 5" Town or City. Hotel. Orillia, Ont Orillia House Oshawa, Ont Commercial Odessa, Ont Sproule Hotel Ottawa, Ont Windsor House Owen Sound, Ont Seldon Ho ise Picton, Ont Royal Hotel Paris, Ont Arlington Perth, Ont Hicks' House Peterboro', Ont Oriental Hotel Petrolea, Ont Johnson House Pictou, N.S Revere House Port Hope, Ont Queen's Prescott, Ont Daniel's Hotel Port Dover Doniinioti Hotel Port Stanley, Ont.. .Praser House (P. 6)... Port Stanley, Ont Hotel Loney Port Stanley, Ont Franklin House Quebec, P.Q Chateau Frontenac iP. 63) Quebec, P.Q CUirenden Quebec, P.Q Victoria Hotel Ridgetown, Ont The Arlington •St. Catharines, Ont. ..Grand Central St. John, N.B Royal Hotel St. Johns, P.Q St. John St. Mary's, Ont Windsor St. Stephens, N.B St. Stephens St. Thoma.s, Ont Orand Central ( P. 6). . Sarnia, Ont Belciiamber ( P. 94) Seaforlh, Ont Kennedy's Hotel .Sherbrooke, P.Q Sherbrookc House.. . Simcoe Battersby House Smith's Falls, Ont. ...Wardrobe House Stratford, Ont Albion Hotel Strathroy, Ont Queen's Truro, N.S Stanley House Toronto, Ont Kiliott House (P. 11). Toronto, Ont Rossin House ( P. 88) Toronto, Ont. Hotel Hanlan (P. 4).. Toronto, Ont Walker Ho'se (P gi) Toronto, Ont Queen's Hotel (P 85) Waterloo, Ont Zimmerman ; P. 9) . . Whitby, Ont Royal Hotel Windsor, Ont Crawford House Windsor, N.S Victoria Wingham, Ont Queen's Woodstock, Ont Hotel Oxford (P. 84). Walkerville, Ont Crown Inn Varmoulh, N.S Grand Rate. I 50 t 50 I 00 I 50 I 50 I 00 I 50 I 50 1 50 1.50 2 00 > 50 2 .00 1 CO 2 .(X> I 00 1 .00 2 • 50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 3.00 2 00 1 CW 2 50 1.50 1.50 I 00 2.50 - SO I . ^;q 1 50 1.50 2 50 1.50 2 50 2 00 2 OCI 2 50 1 GO I . 5,0 1 50 2 tXt 1 UO 2 CO 1.50 2. SO S2 OUTINGS IN CANADA. ESTABLISHED 80 YEARS. V-URS OUR QUALITY \ HAVE OUR STYLE . ;- HIGHEST OUR FIT . . . ) REPUTATION OUR PRICES I MODERATE HIGHEST GRADE SEAL GARHENTS, FINEST PERSIAN AND GREY LAHB JACKETS. EVERY LEADING FUR IN CAPES. SPECIAL ATTENTION TO ALTERATIONS. All Tourists Welcome to Inspect our Stock of Furs. ^J/y NO BRANCH STORES. 'i^^— ^^- ONLY ADDRESS J AS. "H. 'Rogers, COR. KING AND CHURCH SIS., tq-rg/nto. The old Gate and Powder House, French Fort, Annapolis, N.H. OLDEST Building in Canada. OUTINGS IN CANADA. 83 The above is an illustration of what is commonly known as N(JRSE'S TEli AT HdnBEiv Mr. Nurse has been an all-round athlete himself, therefore there is no one knows how to provide for the comfort of Cyclists as he does. O?* »**»«i|i»•*•««*»*•*«* *«^»^,^ >p>eciaf sKtter^tior^ IS PAID TO BICYCLISTS AND PARTIES DRIVING FROM THE CITY. Every Accommodation beings afforded. Mr. Nurse spares neither pains nor expense to render his ju^uests comfort- able, and should one travel the ienjrth and breadth of Canada it is safe to sav he would not fuul a more j/enial, jolly and oblijring host than LANDLORD CHARLES NURSE. 84 OUTINGS IN CANADA. I CM AS. A. PYNE, PROPRIETOR. Woodstock, ont. ro . . . The Leadinjr Hotel of Oxford Gounty. Dininor room supplied with latest improved Fans. Every attention given to the comfort of Wheelmen. ''Frontenac" •••B'cvq'-es Finished to Please ! KINGSTON VEHICLE CO., Kingston, ont. AYLMER, Ontario. PROWN nOQSE. C. W. A. HEADQUARTERS. Finest and Largest in the District, Good Roads for Cycling in every direction. J. WALLACE, Proprietor. OUTINGS IN CANADA. 85 .THE QUEENS HOTEL, ioU^9^io^^o^io^ij> ioi'ioi-io^KOi-iO TORONTO. Is one of the largest in Canada and is the head- quarters o^ members of the Royal Family, Governors-General, Prime Ministers and all dis- tinguished English and American visitors when in Toronto. TERMS $3.00 to $5.00 ACCORDING TO kOCATlON. McGAW & WINNETT, PROPRIETORS. 86 OUTINGS IN CANADA. ™ CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY REACHES IN THE EAST OTTAWA, MONTREAL, QUEBEC, ST. JOHN, N.B., HALIFAX and the naritime Provinces. IN THE WEST DETROIT, CHICAGO, ST. PAUL and niNNEAPOLIS, DULUTH, and the Western States. BY ITS OVERLAND ROUTE . . . WINNIPEG, BANFF, VANCOUVER and all the Pacific Coast points. IT HAS STEAMSHIP LINES . . . : Running to ALASKA, JAPAN and CHINA, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, FIJIAN ISLANDS, AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND. SPECIALLY Interesting Route for Tourists throuiih Grandest Scenery on the Continent. ^....^.^^ ) LUXURIOUS HOTELS. FISHING -- SHOOTING. For Tickets, Free Illustrated Books, Time Tables and all Information apply to any agent of the Canadian Pacific Railway. OUTINGS IN CANADA. 87 Gooderham & Worts, Ltd., e TORONTO, CANADA. ESTABLISHED 1832. Distillers CANADIAN RYE WHISKEY. Bottled in bond under Excise Supervision. Everv bottle bears a Government Stamp over capsule Kuaranteein^ age of contents. 88 OUTINGS IN CANADA. The [^ossin House. TAPESTRY PARLOR, ROSSIN HOUSE. HE ROSSIN HOUSE is the larjfest, best furnished, best ventilated, and best nianag-ed Hotel in the Province of Ontario ; also the most central first-class Hotel in Toronto, beinj^' situated on the corner of Kinjf and York Streets, only two blocks from Union Depot. While the Rossin enjoys all the coiiveiiiencies of its near promixity to a railway centre, its patrons find it sufficiently renioved from the noise, smoke, dust, etc., due to the heavy traffic alonx the tracks on the lake front in the vicinity of the Union Depot. Besides its superior location, it is the only Hotel in Ti>ronto com- plete in all its appointments, with maifnificent parlors and bed-rooms, detached or en suite, lofty ceilinjjs and imposing- corridors. Owing to its increased patronajje, the Hotel Company have en- larg-ed the Rossin by an addition of 75 elejjantly furnished rooms en suite, with baths. The Rossin House enjoys the reputation of being- patronized by more distinguished English, American and foreign visitors than any Hotel in the City. We might mention among many others the Prince of Wales, Duke of Edinburgh, Prince Leopold, also two ex-Presidents of the United States. Prince Bonaparte, when in Toronto, returning from the Worlds Fair, in a letter to the manager said that the accommodation at the Rossin for himself and suite was superior to any that he had occupied during his trip. Prices are graduated according to location of rooms. A. A. NELSON. ^ OUTINGS IN CANADA. 89 'Om.u>i*^ riiiiim|^i„.^|^ , ^'''•^jll'.tllP*'** Niagara River Line, (NIAGAKA NAVIGATION CO.) STEEL STEAMERS CHIGORA, CIBOLA, CHIPPEWA. Leave Lewiston, Queenston and Niagara-on-the-Lake, 6 times daily (except Sunday), for TORONTO, the " Queen City" of Canada. /^LOSK connections made with the Now York Central and Michijjfan ^^ Central Railways, and the N'iaj;'ara I-'alls Park and River Electric Railwaj', for the Falls, BiiflFalo, New \ )rk, &c. This is the only line jjiving' views i>t' the Falls, Rapids, Brock's Monument and all the beautiful scenery of the lower Niagara. Tickets at Offices of all Principal Railways, Tourist Agencies, etc. Asic for Tickets by NIAGARA RIVER LINE. JOHN FOY, Manager, TORONTO. 90 OUTINGS IN CANADA. •\ w-N. •■-. • -^ r\ •-- T-,,^ tv^ • -s^ • -- r\ • s. •". »\ ""x ^v "x ""n. Grand Jmm Railway GREAT I^^^^B KUU 1 L. The only "Double Track Tourists Line "Reaching all the Pleasant Spots. Georgian Bay and Muskoka Lakes, the "Canadian Highlands," The Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence, The Only St. Clair Tunnel, The Mighty Niagara Falls, The Bracing Atlantic Coast Resorts, The Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the Famous Saguenay River. I) PARTIES OF WHEELMEN Will be allowed 33', reduction from regular one Nvay rates when travelling together one way. Bicycles carried as ordinary baggage estimating ^veight as 160 pounds. FULL information ON APPLICATION TO GRAND TRUNK AGENTS, OR M. C. DICKSON, D/s/ria Passenger Agent, TORONTO. N. J. POWER, Genl. Passenger Agent. GEO. T. BELL, Asst. Getil. Passenger Agent. L. J. SEARGEANT, General Manager. OUTINGS IN CA.v'ADA. 91 WALKER imMWMW T0R0NTQ. 0NT. HOaSE 100 YARDS EAST OF MAIN ENTRANCE OF NEW UNION STATION. 5 MINUTES FROM THE BOATS. (SyeOosl^s IHi^l^^t^iyl^i^t^iPs |@o^ Too^Qii^t®. Rates to Wheelmen $2.00 per day. By tho week or for parties of eight or more $1.50. BAVID WALKER, PROPRIETOR. 93 OUTINGS IN CANADA. HAMILTON, Canada. Rates $2.50 to $4,00 per day. THOS. Hood, Proprietor. Snttrnnlmnat ^frtW , OAKVILLL. ONTARIO. /* Oakville is situated on Loake Ontario, midway he- 2. tween Toronto and Hamilton, as a summer resort S , Q ■ it is unsurpassed by any place in the Dominion. Buss meets all Trains and Boats. _ TFRHS $i.oo PER DAY. SPECIAL RATES GEO. KENNEDY, TO SUMMER GUESTS. PROPRIETOR. OUTINGS IN CANADA. 93 4.^^^ and Hygeia Waters Carbonated Beverages ARE THE LEADING GOODS OF THEIR KIND IN ONTARIO THE C. W. A. TOUR OF '94 USED THEM EX- CLUSIVELY THAT SPEAKS FOR THE QUALITY SEND FOR PRICE LISTS J. J. Mclaughlin, Toronto. MANUFACTURIMG CHEMIST, 153 and ISS Sherbourne Street, 94 OUTINGS IN CANADA. \ B^HgHBu^ r ■ ^ 1^^ . M WL^()^3 1 ^ 9lfiK>^ t jrfw^ i^^T'^U^ ^ iJi 'i^k M ' ■ V^ i/^~'"^' mmk^ ■l^HlMtl J , V ^iuKSZf ^k^iSJIIJH KwwjrUflE ■ «• . ■ Wt M Wm W ^■Mh^bmUhIH m I^^^^^^H^' '^l^fl^l ^^Sh^R^^^^^^I R. WALKER & SONS, R. Walker & Sons, TORONTO'S POPULAR . DRY GOODS STORE . 0L'T1"ITTERS in the most comprehensive sense of tiie term for Men, Women, House, Sports, or Camp. Ready-to-wear Garments of every description worn in tliis country, for Men, Women and Cliildren. Bicyclists' Suits, Hose, Caps, Shoes, etc., up-lo-iiate in every respect. Souvenir Goods in Silver, China, Crystal, Leather, etc, in jjreat variety. This House, which was established 6o years ago, has steadily developed .uid kept in the lead, and is to-day, as it has always been, one of the largest stores in Toronto. \'i!-:itors are always warmly welcomed and made at home. The Bureau of Information affords ficilities for correspondence, storing of parcels or lug- g.ige, and the establishnuMit gene i ally is Headquarters for Tourists. 33, 35, 37, 39, 41 & 43 King St.. E., 18, 20, 22, 24 Col borne St., TORONTO. ^g^ The Bedchamber -.^i^ r • • ^^.^ C. W. fi. HEfiDQUfiRTERS, SflRNIfl, ONT. '^^^ The Gateway of the Great Lakes. ""O^^^^-V . SEE ARTICLE SARNIfl. ( Reduced Rates to Wiieela\e/\. JNO. BUCKLEY, Proprietor. OUTINGS IN CANADA 95 KINGSTON, ONT. THIS is the best appointed Hotel in the City, being supplied with Electric Lights, Hot Water Heating, and the Rooms are all large and well ventilated The Belt Line Electric Street Railway passes the door every four minutes. This line connects with all trains and boats and enables the tourist to visit every part of the Gity at a minimum expense RATES $::>.50 to $3.50. Special Rates for parties durinif the Summer months. THOS. CRATE, proprietor. 96 OUTINGS IN CANADA. His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales rides Dunlop Tires. Fac-simlle of Carriage in which His Royal Highness rides, fitted with Dunlop Detachable Tires. A Word about !«-M Diamonds! 85 per cent, of the world's Diamonds are cut in Amsterdam. In buying from the cutters the terms are ''strictly nett cash." We carry the Iarg:est stock in Canada, and it is personally selected from the cutters in Amsterdam. Being admitted into Canada duty free, can you conceive of a better opportunity for buying your Diamonds? Ryrie Bros., Jewelers and Silversmiths, Cor. Yonge and Adelaide Sts. lOrOIltO. V. .