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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 12 3 4 5 6 -i^-i^' '•"■^l, I \ .%■ y y ■/ '«.' ..'% AN ACCOUNT OF A GEOGRAPHICAL AND ASTRONOMICAL EXPEDITION TO THE NORTHERN PARTS pF RUSSIA, m FOR ASCERTAINING THE DEGREES OF LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE OF THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER KOVIMA ; OF THE WHOLE COAST OF THE TSHUTSKI, TO EAST CAPE ; AND OF THE ISLANDS IN THE EASTERN OCEAN» STRETCHING TO THE AMERICAN COAST. rmronMEo, By Command of Her Imperial Majefty CATHERINE THE SECOND, EMPRESS or ALL THE RUSSIAS, BY COMMODORE JOSEPH BILLINGS, In the Tears 1785, ^c. to 1794. THE WHOLE NARRATED FROM THE ORIGINAL PAPERSf BY MARTIN SAUER, SECRETARY TO Till IZFIUITION. ■■•«. LONDON: Printed by A. Strahan, Printers Street ; FOR T. CADELL) JUN. AND W. DAVIES, IN THE STRAND. 1802. ••^«*»;" - Mm #» -■ \^ TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR JOSEPH BANKS, BARONET, A KNIGHT COMPANION OF THE MOST HONOURABLE ORDER OF THE BATH'. A MEMBER OF THE KING's MOST HONOURABLE PRIVY COUNCIL; PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY, &C. &C. &C. i THIS WORK IS, WITH GREAT DEFERENCE AND RESPECT, INSCRIBED, By HIS MUCH OBLIGED, MOST GRATEFUL, AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, MARTIN SAUER. >' » \ PREFACE. 1 HE extraordinary difcoveries of the ever-memorable circum- navigator Cook infpired all Europe with an enthufiaftic defire of being acquainted with the parts of the globe ftiU remaining un- known. Ruflia, though more interefted in thefe events than any other Power, being engaged in different purfuits, did not confidcr the diflant and barren regions belonging to her own Empire as of fufficient importance to juftify the expence and trouble of ex- ploring them ; until the genius of the country was completely rouzed by the animating intelligence communicated in the " Ac* count of the Ruffian Difcoveries between Ada and America, by the Reverend William Coxe," which the late Catherm j the Second commanded to be tranflated for her own perufal, al- though the original Papers were in the Archives of the Admiralty at St. Peterlburg *. ,^ * I am happy to find, that the authoi has collefted very confldeiable materials for an Enlarged edition of this worli ; which it is hoped he will not long withhold from the public, as the book is out of print, and cannot be procured. 13 The VIU PREFACE. The Court of Riiflla was afloniflied at the difcovcrica already made, by its own roving fubjeds, of iflands, and of a continent, of which latter it had indeed an idea, but not the fmalleft notion of its extent or proximity to its own territories, and only fuppofcd that it might be America. However, thefe voyagers did not afcertain the geographical fituations of places, nor explain the advantages that they offered to the country to which they belonged j nor, in ihort, any thing more than their mere jexiftence. The amazing extent of dominion acknowledging the fove« reignty of RufTia, independent of he!" late acquifitions by con- queft, became now the fafhionable topic of converfation at Court. Mr. Coxe, being at St. Peterfljurg, took advantage of the favourable moment to fuggeft an Expedition, to complete the geographical knowledge of the moft diftant poffeffions of that Empire, and of fuch northern parts of the oppofite conti- nent as Captain Cook could not pofTibly afcertain. The learned Dr. Pallas, then in great favour, undertook to make the ne- ceffary reprefentations to Her Imperial Majefty, who, well pleafed with the hint, immediately approved of the plan drawn out by thefe two Gentlemen ; and Count Befborodko was, in confe- ■quence, ordered to prepare a Mandate for the Admiralty : this was in the autumn of the year 1784. Mr. Billings, who J\ad juft received a Lieutenancy, faid, that he had been the Aftro- PREFACE. fjt Aftronomer's Afliftant In Captain Cook's laft voyage ; and he was therefore thought a proper perfon to conduit the en- tcrprife. Matters remained thus till the French Papers announced the departure of Count dc la Peroufe, in July 1785, on a voyage of difcovery. Upon this, the undertaking was refumed with energy ;• and on the 8th Auguft following, an Ukaze, or Mandate, figned by the Emprefs, was fent to the Admiralty; on which were founded the Instructions to Captain Billings, given in the Appendix to this Volume, No. V. Every thing was procured that appeared likely to contribute to the fuccefs of the enterprife ; every imaginable encouragement was awarded to all the officers and men ; and orders were fent to the Governors, Commanders, &c. throughout the vaft ex- tent of Siberia, to give all poffible affiftance. Captain Billings had perrnllion to fclejH: his own officers, and to take fuch hands as he judged neceflary. ho he •o- I was perfgrtally acquainted with Doctor Pallas and Mr. Bil- lings, both of whom requeftcd that I would accompany the Ex- pedition as Private Secretary and Tranflator; and, on receiving the a ' promife X PR El ACE. promlfe of pcrmliTion to publilU my remarka upon my return, I agreed. On the loth March 1794 I returned to St. Pcterfburg, in ^ very critical ftate of health, which continued impaired during the whole of the following fummer, and induced Doctor Rogers (now in London), the Dodor (Merck) and Surgeon Major (Ro- beck) of our Expedition, to form an opinion, tliat the feverity of ii Ruffian winter might prove of bad confcqucnces ; and they recommended my vifiting a milder climate for a (hort time. In confequence of this profefTional opinion, I petitioned Captain Billings, conformably to the eflabliflied rules of the fervice ; re- queuing him to reprefent my fituation to the Admiralty, and to procure me leave of abfence for about four months. This was on the 2d of September 1794; and on the 5th of the fame month, TOWARD MIDNIGHT, /received a very tinexpe&ed and unfavourable ANSWER. It is not my intention, however, to enumerate hard- fliips, or make a merit of fufFerlngs ; but to give the bed ac- count I can of fuch occurrences as immediately concern the Expedition, and as appear to me moft likely to intereft my Readers. In the mean time I embrace this opportunity of acknowledging my great obligations to the undermentioned Gentlemen, then inhabi- PREIACfi. j^j inhabitants of St. Pctcrn,urg, for the particular marks of friend- fliip which I received at their hands* William Porter, TSq. Mr. William Jones. Mr. Alexander Grant, Mr. Laurence Brown. Thomas Warre, Elq. William Wilfon, Efq. Alexander Shairp, Efq, John Booker, Efq. Boaor Simpfon. Doaor Guthrie. Mr. John Samuel Barnes. — John Venning-, — William Glen Johnaon. — John Glen Johnfton. — Edward James Smith,. Upon my arrival In London, however, I experienced no lefs generous treatment. M. Garthfl.ore, M. D. F. R. S. and A. S. has ■ my nncere thanks for his protedion ; as alfo the Reverend: William Cox^, and the Reverend London Kino Pitt. A 2 Tliom as XU. PREFACE. Thomas Harvey, Efq. who particularly aflifteJ me In Ruflia, has ftill heaped obligations upon me here ; as have alfo Charles Grant, Efq. and Dodor Rogers. My warmed acknowledgments are likewife due to James Gibfon, Samuel Stratton, and John Rowlatt, Efqrs. for their friendfhip and recommendation. The many kindnefles received from Mr. William Lotherington, and Mr. Edmund Rodd, my fellow-traveller from Ruflia, will remain indelible in my remembrance. ?;ll During my travels, I was frequently neceflitated to make notes on fmall pieces of paper ; thofe I have faithfully tranfcribed j but in fome inftances I have been obliged to refer to memory ; which circumftance, added to the obliterated ftate of feveral outlines traced with a black lead pencil, would have prevented my giving A chart of the two continents, had not Mr. Arrowfmith requefted to fee my remarks, which he compared with former difcoveries in thefe parts ; and, obferving that the correfponding diftanccs (particularly Shalauroff's chart) agreed witli Captain Billings s aftronomlcal obfervations in the Icy Sea, as did alfo the {ketches of the natives, it plainly appeared to him, that he could venture to lay down the Shalatfkoi promontory, and the whole coafl: be- tween the eaftern promontory of Afia and the Kovima with S tolerable .■11 PREFACE. Xni tolerable exadnefs j which proves the general fault In the RufTiaa charts, where the coaft is carried confiderably too dw nortli. The fituation of the iflands between the two continents, as laid down in the chart, may be pronounced juft ; but I feel myfclf infinitely obliged to Mr. Arrowfmith for the pains he has taken. I am equally fenfible of Mr. Alexander's merit in the judicious arrangement of the drawings and coftumcs, which has enabled me to prefent the Engravings, exadl in their refemblances, and exe- cuted in a manner highly pleafing to myfelf. While indulging my own fenfations in paying th"* tribute of refped and gratitude to thofe who have befriended me, I ought not to overlook the kindnefs and liberality which I have experienced from my Pub- lilhers; but, as I am perfuaded that iheir behaviour to me is merely the ordinary courfe of their profeflional practice, I fliall reftrain my feelings, and avoid the rilk of offending them by being more particular. ts s les ire )Q~ Ith )Ie Upon mature deliberation on the extent and tendency of this Work, I think it neceffary to call publicly on the Commander of the Expedition, and my brother officers, to correal any miftakes In my narrative *, or to elucidate fuch intricacies as may have * My narrative of the voyages Is taken from the journal written for Captain BiHIngs, which I copied from tlie flu'p's journal kept by the Mailer BatakofF and his mates. 1 am appvehenfive, that fome of tlie bearings arc not perfedlly correft 5 and I acknowledge tliat in many places I am not capable of faying whether the computed diflances are geographical or German uules ; both meafures having been ufed by the original journaliRs. arifen I ii; m -'^l^' PREFACE. arlfen from my want of knowledge In the different branches within the limits of their profeffional ftudies. My objea has been to travel witli 'my eyes open, and to relate ^vhat I have feen in the funplc langunge of truth. KXPLANA- 63 las ve EXPLANATIONS OF Rujfian and other Foreign Words made ufe of in the following Work. |\- Baidar ; a term ufed at Ochotfk, Kamtfhatka, &c. for boats, whether large or fmaJl. Tliey arc pohiteJ at both ends, and conflrufted as follows : A keel and three frames, the lower to form a flat-bottom, the fecond to fupport tlic thwarts, and the third to fcrve for the gunnel ; light knees and ground timbers are lalhed to the keel and the frames with whales' fins : The raw hides of fea- animals are drawn over, to fcrve inflead of fheathing. They draw only a few inches water, carry a confiderable burthen, are excellent furf-boats, and very ufeful in coafting excurfions } as four men can carry one of them which admits of twelve rowers ; at night they are turned keel upwards, and fcrve inftead of tents. The fmaller are quite covered, leaving only one, two, or three openings for the rower. Cazar, or Renok ; a market for vegetables, hard and wooden ware, Sec. Any perfon is permitted in thefe places to hawk about old clothes, or whatever they may have for fale. Camley, or Kamley ; a garment in fliape like a carter's frock, made of the inteftines of marine animals, of linen, nankeen, or leather. GoRODNiTSHiK \ thc mayor of a town. Guba } a bay. Kamen ; a barren mountain ; alfo a rock at fca. Krepost j in RufTia, means a regular fort ; but in Siberia, Kamtfliatka, and th; iflands, it is ufed for any place walled in j and is a name frequently given to a place which was intended to have had a fortrcfs ; as Pctro Pavloiiky Kiepofl, or the fort of St. Peter and S'. Paul. Laid, or Laidenoi Bereg -, a rocky fhore covered at high water. Mammonts' Tusks are found about the Siberian rivers and the fliorcs of thc Icy Sea, and fcattered all over the arftic flats. They arc full as large as thofe of the elephant, much more curved, and perhaps equal in quality. It appears that tlie animal is extincl. Ml-YS, ^' m 1 IM . !' I ;■ ,,«f n i 'cv'. ) Mcvi, or My3 ; a cape. Noss ; a promontory. OiTROG ; a fquarc inclofurc of paliiadoes, about elglit feet high ; replete witl» holts to point mulkets through ; it generally has four entrances, -with a tower upon each. OsTROv ; an ifland. OzER, or OsER -, a lake. Park ; a garment made like the camley, but only of the fkins of animals with the hair on, or witli thofe of birds with the feathers. PEREnoFsiiiK ; a leader. PoLOG 1 a low tent ufed in a larger to fleep and fit in ; alfo a thin covering over a bed to keep away flies and mofquitoes. Pood ; a Ruffian weight of forty poitnds, equal to thirty-fix pounds Engllfh. Pristan ; a landing-place for goods. PuoMYSHLENiK ; a hunter. CHiAss } ;i fermented liquor of plants, berries, roots, or meal, ufed as a drinks Reka ; a river. Retshka ; a rivulet. Sazshcn ; a fathom of fix feet, Sheetjki, or Shitiki ; a large boat fheathed with plank, which is faftened to the timbers with twilled oziers ; the interftices are ItuiFed with mofs, inftead of caulking ; and the feams a»e covered with laths of about two inches wide, to prevent the walhing out of the mofs i thefe are inclofed in the ozlere. The name im plies /cw/z, as they are made without naiis or pegs. Sloeoda , a large village with a church. Sci'KAj a peaked mountain. rotoN, or ToYON ; the Yakut name for chief, applied to the chiefs of all the heathen nations. UsT, or OosT ; the dtfcharge of a river. T'rsnuNiK ; a learner. VkRST i a Ruffian mile, 1043: to a degree. CON- CONTENTS. XKEFACE, KXPL^ NATIONS Of Ruffian and other Foreign Wo'rds made ufe of in the Work, List of Engravings, CHAP. r. Departure from St. PeterJburg.^Occnrremes on the the City oflrkuljk. way to vii XV XXV CHAP. 11. Ajucclna Account of our Tranfaaions at the City oflrkutjk - State of our Command,-Additional Hands taken there[ CHAP. III. Departure from Mutf,-^Ju Accident. ^Remarkable Cave - The River Lena and its Tributaries.— Arrival at Takut/k, CHAP. IV. Arrival at Ochotfk.^Prcfnt State of that City, II 20 35 CHAP. V. Departure from Ochotfk,^The Tungoofe defcribed.-Ani. con,^Tann Urack-ZafoiverJk.^Virchm Kovima, 43 ^ CHAP, XVlll CONTENTS. "S? ifi' CHAP. VI. Meeting of the Command^ under c'lrcumjlances of d'ljficidty. — RefeB'ions. — Vfit the Tiikngiri. — Occtipat'ious on our re- turn. — Virchni Kov'iwfkoi and its Inbabitiints dcfcrtbcd. — CoJfacSy . - - CHAP. VII. Departure from Virchni Kovinia, — Seredni Kovima. — Inhabi- tants of the River Omolon, — Nciz/Jjni Kovinia. — Shalan- roff''s Wintering-place. — iMpticffs Mayak. — The Pallas confecrated^ and Captain Billings advanced in rank. — Pajfage much annoyed by Ice. — Spiral Bay. — Wolves^ Bay. — Barranoi Kamen. — Captain Billings refolves on de- clining any farther attempt to proceed^ and the Command returns to Neiz/Jjni Kovima^ I'.i),^e 54 6/ CHAP. VIII. Departure from Neizjloni Kovima Ofrog. — Y^ermolova Tona. — Toxving by Dogs. — 7 he Mountain of Komz/heboi. — Seredni 0/lrog. — Natural Hiftory of the Kovinia. — Sketch of the Inhabitants on its Coaf. — Information derived from an old Co/fac^ and others^ rcf peeling the fate of Shalaurof. — Arrival at Takutjk^ CHAP. IX. Meet ivith Mr. Ledyard^ ivho travels with the Command to Irkiitfi. — He is arrefed by an order from the Emprefs., and fent under a guard to Mofco. — The Govcrnor-Gcneral^ S2 yakobi.^ CONTENTS. Jalioh'i^ called to St. Peterjburg. — The Command arrives at Takutjk. — Some particulars refpedling Lachoff^s Travels to the Icy Sea ^ 1770-3. — Chvoinoff''s yourney thither in 1775. — The Command arrives at Ochotjky but returns immediately to winter at Takntfk^ CHAP. X. Account of tlj€ Yakut I ^ collcHed from perfonal inquiry and re- fearch^ - - - - CHAP. XL Leave Yakutfk. — Arrive at the Village Amginfkoi. — Ufl Mayo Prijlan. — Arrive at Ochotf. — Two new Vejfels launched^ and named The Glory of Rujfta^ and the Good Intent.—^ The latter Ship wrecked : a Circumjlance which had been predicted by the fupc.rflilious Inhabitants from an ominous fight of Crows. — A Courier from Petcrfburg arrives, — An Ifland difcovered^ and named fonass I/land. — Arrive at the Harbour of St. Peier and St. Paul in Kamffhatluiy where we winter., making only occafional Excurftons^ XIX Page 99 109 ^2>7 CHAP. xri. Receive information from Petcrfurg of on Enemy s Ship (Swedi/Jj) having been fent into thcfe Seas to annoy the Ruffian Fur-Trade. — Depart from Avatfka Bay. — Cap' tain Billings cauj'es his InfriiBions to be read to the Officers .^ and declares his intention of feering to the North -wef Coajl of America. — Ifland of Amtftntka. — Amli. — OonalafJoka ; b 2 Drefs^, XX CONTENTS. P.1 Age Df'ifsy Manners^ ^c. of the Natives, — Tyranny enter cifed over them by the Rujfmn Hunters^ - .. - 1 48 * ' CHAP. XIII. Depart from Ootialafjka, — See the Iflaud of Sannach. — The Shiiniag'ins. — Alculcs oppirfcd by the Ri/JJian Hunters, — Jfjnds of Evdokecff\ — Come to anchor in the Harbour of Kadiak. — Particulars rc/pccling that IJland and its Inha- tantSf " - m iC^ CHAP. XIV. Leave Kadiak. — IJland of Afognak. — Shuyuch^ or Point Banks. — Icy River. — Fall in with a groupe of I/lands^ and are vifited byfome of the Natives. — Anchor in Prince Willianis Sound. — Vifited by the Natives ^ ivhofe propenfty to thieving is checked by the fagacity of two Dogs. — Cap' tain Billings ajfumes an additional rank. — Captain Saret- fheff^s Account of his Survey of the Coajl . — Cape St. Elias ofcertained by an ExtraSl from Mr. Stcllers yournal. — Mr. Delarcjfs Account of a former Vifit to the Sound. — Some RefleBions of the Author^ - - 184 CHAP. XV. Leave Prince William s Sound. — It is rcfolved to return to Kamtfjatka. — Kays I/land. — One of the Aleut es taken on board from Oonalafhka makes an attempt on his life. — Ex- traordinary difference in Longitude between the Time-keeper and the Ship's reckoning. — Short Allowance enforced. — Arrive in the Harbour of St, Peter and St. Paul^ - 200 CHAP. CONTENTS. XXI CHAP. xvr. Air. Pr'ibitlff appmnlcd to the Slnnnaus place ^ vacant by the Death of Mr. Bronnikoff ; he goes hi fcarch of an I/JaniL-^ Df covers one which he names St. George's if and ^ and o not her y to which he gives the name of St, PanPs. — Arrival and generous Behaviour of an Enemy s Ship,, the Mercury^ Captain Coxe; and the ylfonijlitncnt cftheRiifian Settlers. — Leave St. Peter and St. Paul. — Reach Bering'' s If and ^ and narrowly cfcape a Rocky Point. — Copper If and. — The I/lands ofAttoo and Agatto. — Semitfj. — Biddy r. — Kyfka. — A Clufer of I/lands. — Drefs and Amufements of the Inha- bitants. — Iwo Natives of thefe Ifands^ who had been Attendants on Captain Billings ^ put on Shore. — Leave Tanaga,^ and,, after pajjing ftveral Clufer s of Mountainous T/lands,, arrive at Oonalafhka^ - • CHAP. XVII. Captain Billings abandons all thought of re-vifting the Ameri- can Coaf to the fouth of Cook's River^ and prepares to fail for the Bay of St. Laurence. — Refections of the Author. — Sail for the Bay of St. Laurence. — The I/lands of St. George and St. Paul. — Gore's Ifand,^ ^c. — Captain Bil- lings ^ ^c. land on the Continent of America ; of which Vifit fome Particulars are given from the Memoranda of a Gentleman in the Party. — Come to anchor in the Bay of St. LaurencCf - - . CHAP. XVIII. Reception by the Natives. — An Adventure of the Author. — Singular kind of Encampment,'— Barter with the Male^ Page 210 229 and X.Ml CONTKNTS. ¥^- (iiiil in'\i\il iicc'jjiifnothition iv'tlh tic VcwnL fn!.Kibihifits, — T)'!ViJlon of th<' Ijhutjk'i Kut'ion inltj hvo Tnhrs ; ivhuh era fcparatcly difcrllu-.K - Captain IVtlUng.';^ ivith u Party^ IciiVi s the Ship for the purpwfc of o Land Excnrfion arrofs the Cjji'itry to the Kiv'mia.— Tfutfi Pafinus, ?sfo. — Captain Saiclfcff^ purfnant to cnhr^ fails for Oonalafka^ and anchors in the Harbour of III// Ink. — Captain Hall arrivi's. — Preparations made for a IVinlirs Rfidcncc, — Tribute colUttcd. — Mijponfrom Shclikrff's Kjlablifmcnt at Kadiak. — Sketch of the Natural Hifory of the If and of QonaLiJhka, — A Ilnrricanc^ CHAP. XIX. Deplorable fate of the Party under the EffcEls of the Scurvy. — Attention and Services of the Natives. — Sketch of the Religious Notions ^ Government^ Arts^ Manners^ ^c. r,f the Natives of the A leu tan Jfands. — Mode in which ihc Ruffian Hunters carry on their Concerns. — ^lit the I/land^ and arrive at St. Peter and St, Paul. — Find there the Alryon, Captain P:r-k/ey, from Bengal^ vcho^ though having on board Articles of the firf Necefity^ ivhich he cfered at a very low Pricc^ was forced to return zvithout having difpofed of any. — Refections of the yluthor on Ven- tures of this kind. — Better Succef of a former Adven- turer^ Captain William Peters^ in 1786, Page" 250 2.69 . i!. C H A P. XX. Part of the Company fail., under Captains Hall and Sa- retl].Hf\ for Oeholfi. — Intelligence received f rem Captain Billings and his Party. — Letter from Mr. Alain to the Author, giving a brief Sketch of their Sirfcrings. — A?i % alarmi.fo- CONTENTS. iiliirnihig Ear/hqUiiLc. — La I'lav'u}^ a Frc}:ch S/jif)^ or' rives ivlthfpiritnons Li'^uois and otbci' ArtldcSy CHAR XXI. The Pctniifula of KunitJlMilLi (Lfcr'shccf^ CHAP. XXII. The La Fliivia departs fur Canton. — A Galii'J arrives^ and conveys the l^aily to Otbotjk^ after fnic danger J'roin a Leak. — The Author ^ with tbefirf Party ^ fcts forward for Takiilfk ; at ivhich^ bmvcvcr^ be arrives alone^ after en^ countering much LJi/lrfs^ and leaving bis Companions and bis Baggage behind on the Road. — Actively afifed by the Commandant and Captain of the Di/iritl, — The Amoor River deferibed. — Arrive at Irkutjk. — Sketch of Captain IVdLuigs^s Expedition acrofs the Land of the Ijhntfki. — • Arrival at St. Feter/burg, Appendix. No. I. — Vocabulary of the Y'ukagir^ Yakut ^ and Tun^oofe (or LAimut) Languages^ No. II. — Vocabulary of the Languages of Kamtfjatka^ the Aleutan Ijlands^ and Kadiak^ No. III. — A Ly} of the different Stages from Si. Fetcrfburg^ No. IV. — Account of the full Pay of the different Ranks ^ with other Dependencies^ No. V. — InJlruCl. jUS of LLer Ltnp rial Maje/Iy^from the Ad- miralty Cullege^ to Mr. Jofeph Billings^ No. VI. — Inf ructions Jur the Naluralijly Mr. Fatrin^ No. VII. — Extracts and Supplementary Obfervations^ xxm Page 383 289 3>4 27 29 SS LIST nt- LIST OF LNGRavINGS. Plate I. View of the Port of Ochotfk, and the Bay of Kuchtui, • II, View of the Peak and Rivulet Sliilcap, with Tungoofc Tents, • III. View of the Town of Zaflilvcrfk, . • IV. View of Captain Gierke's Tomb at St. Peter and St. Paul's, - • V. A Man and Woman of Oonalaflika, • VI. A Man of Kadiak, - • VII. View of Shelikoff's Eftablifhment on the Iflaiid of Kadiak, the Iflands of Tanaga and Ateka, VIII. The Iflands Attoo, Agatto, Buldyr, and Kyfka, IX. Gore's Iflands, and the Ifland Semi-Sopoflmoi, X. MifccUaneous. Fig. I. Pick-axe formed of the Tuflt of the Morzfh. 2. Stone Hatchet of America. 2* A" Inftrumcnt ufed by the Tihutiki in the chafe of the Morzfli *. To face P»|^ 40 44 146 176 lii 219 246 Fig. 4. * The original from wliich this rcprtfeiUation was taken did not come vviiliin my own obfervation ; it is, therefKr«., not explaiticd in my narrative. It is a piece of wood to whicli the claws of the Morzfli arc faRened ; the hiin- ters, covering tlKii.klves with the (kin of the head of the Morzdi, make a fcratching nolfe on the ice with this inftrument ; the Morzfh approaches it, when the hunter takes liis lance, and, throwing off the malk, fprings fuddenly upon the Morzlh, and ftabs it. v The nil' I ( SXVi ) Platl X. Tig. 4. Scpuk-lirc of the Oonalaihkans. 5. 6. and 7. B;iiclar, Drcis, and Bow, nfed by tlie Natives on both Conti- nents at Lcring's Straits. XI. Maflcs ul'cd by the OonalaHikans in their Dances ; with Darts, and both fides of tlie board from which they are thrown, XII. View of Ozernoi Ilot-fpringsin Kamtlhatka, XIII. A Tfliutlki Woman, • XIV. A Tfhutflci Man in Armour *, To face P;ig« 272 320 321 * The armour is made eitlier of latluvood, with tliin bone, or if they can obtain them, iron hoops in preference ; they are failencd together with the iliicws of feals, fo that they will bend both ways, and are covered over with leather, which h bound on with thin flips of whalebone, which gives it the appearance of fo many hoops. They are replete with Ifaops and buttons, upon which they hang their bow, arrows, &c. ; the upper part occafion- ally lets down. Page 13 21 26 42 45 47 54 57 59 63 67 82 99 '43 144 182 227 line -- 137 — 24J ]inc 2. 22 16 1 1 -4 25 23 I 26 25 3 I I I 19 9 7 17 ERRATA. /Jr fo;il — 19th — Rhe 276 — I _such 29^ — 5 >_Ra], — PyatfDefetniks — ripling — 800 — lydomo — Ingigirka — irba's — their cakes — Chnp. V. — nodules — f.iitcned — 29 ~ Cliap. VI. — ciiiip. vir. — Chap. vir. — Anith-wefl: — iiorth-cafl — Ticch Alchu read fole — 9th — Rheum — Piat-Dcfatniks f -- rippling — 300 ■ — Yudoma — Indigirka — ifba's — thin cakes -- CJiap. VI. — needles — hung ■ 19th - Ch.ip • Chap - Chap, Ibuth-eafl: north-well Trccli Atcl Vir. VII [. IX. inni ivinoi — LucJ — Rakov la laniii inoi i- 1 "'»^i»r' IMTHIM " m ii;::iii li'II^Wfl| 2ll() lOMlMK:::-: /<■) Ir ■//■• 'M / 1 C7/JA 7Vy//// STRAIT he two en \SIA<^AMEMICi with the CoiKst of tlie TS rnrTSKI, A ASTROyOMICAL OHSER VA TIONS. \ i/)iir//i /jj/./ • r //> ///•// /./. /- v'/y //.'////// \ v"^' () K 'I IliiKliil llivn ,\ M K K I C A "K ^r- ...-•^-'•'— ..,. ' V ^-4«' ''■'"'""'•4' J« ,Sir^ ilS'll.ri,,,.,;,., /^l m^^'^' ^^\ ^ / M'.lilli'lon.s I '• • ■^'aiiiltii , ///,/,/, / ^ .-/% >J»^ .f ^* ''<.^ . ,•>''' , btNiliiniii. '"-ii <«• - m a ii iBM ii H 0 i(i,) 170 -g-lflCTI^T- |. 'i|l>IIIMII1ir' lli|li!imiTI¥'^- l«l'!l8IM »Wril l:i"«lllllllM 17.) iftl- iiiwiiias! 3K J32B llrkW"!!"' l«.'l •,'»<' I'ul'/i.'lid/ ./lUi . /(•'.'' trie:' h\ ('iiilill )\' Dai iis Striiiii/ . ■i£ I'liailt'iiji Niis.'i A X I s !• I't'l/ii lUi^'uml^' "vy^ ■■ > '■■ / ;^' atwi «v tiiiii'S I 1 ,.'/,y>i./t^.?^-;**- rj'ivmli.iit Oitiinlatthltu t -A. 33aar: USE !«,". tJi: '■,':.",;i .i,.,.t..aw«l ji.! U).'> 211 iili/i // A- Del] ii.r Strilllil . )! ^iBiBat -,¥#: ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION, ^c, ^c, ^c. CHAP. 1. : departure from St, Peter/Bur^. — Occurrences on the way to the City oflrkutjk. In confequence of a mandate figned by the late Emprefs of Ruflia, Catharine II. directed to the College of Admiralty, and dated 8th Auguft 1785, appointing Captain-Lieutenant Jofeph Billings to the command of " A Secret Aftronomical and Geo- " graphical Expedition for navigating the Frozen Sea, defcribing " its Coafts, and afcertaining the Situation of the Iflands in the " Seas between the two Continents of Afia and America, &c. * '* the Admiralty confirmed the officers chofen by the commander, and fupplied aftronomical and nautical inftruments, the charts and journals of all former navigators from the year 1724, and every other article confideied as neceflary. % * Sec the Introduftion. B Early J ft ACCOUNl' or' AN LXrF.DITION P!urly 111 the month of Scpteml)cr, Lieutenant Sarctflieff was dlfpatchcd tllicCt to Ochotflc, with our fhip-builclcr and his afllll- ant, to feledt and fell proper trees for conftrudinp; two fliips, ac- cording to a plan ot Mr. Lamb Yeames, fliip-builder, in which he had conlidered tiic beft means of accommodating the officers and crew. Tlie injunctions laid on Captain Billings to explore the rivers ami the inland country of Siberia, prevented our going by fea from St, Peterfburg ; befides, the fliips were to remain as tranfport veiTcls, or arn\cd eruifers, in ihofc feas. Lieutenant Saretflieft' had orders to the Governor-General of Ir- kutfk and Kolivan, apprifing him of the purport of the expedition, and requiring his pofitivc commands to the Governor of Ochotfk to fupply men and neceflaries to forward the bufinefs. The whole party was fent off in fmall detachments by the middle of October; on the 23th day of the fame month, 1785, I departed from St. Pettrfburg, with Captain Billings and our fur- geon, Mr. Robeck, at eight o'clock in the evening, in very rainy and windy weather; which made the roads fo indifferent, that we did not reach Mofco till the 5th of November at eight o'clock in the morning. I forbear to make any remarks refpeding the road, the villages, &c. as every clrcumftance is well defcribed by Mr. Coxe ; my intention is, to be more particular when I arrive at places lefs known. In this city Lieutenant Hall, the fecond in command, was or- dered to wait the arrival of Captain Billings ; the other parties proceeded by Kazan to Irkutfk. We I TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 3 We purchafcd a great number of articles nccelTary for our tra- vels ; received medicines for the ufe of the expedition, from the Government General Repofitory of Drugs; and forwarded our bag- gage to Kazan by Lieutenant Hall, who kft Mofco the i oth of De- cember; and on the 15th, at four o'clock in the afternoon, Captain Billings proceeded with our head furgeon, (Mr. Robcck,) Sturman BatakofF, and myfelf, attended by foldiers in carriages and on fledges. i «re 4 The road was barely covered with fnow ; and on the 1 8th we arrived at Paulova, containing about 250c houfes, fome few very elegantly built of brick, and five churches. This may be con- fidered as the Birmingham of Rufiia, and is, with all its inhabi- tants, the private property of Count Shercmetoff. The people are all manufacturers of hardware and traders, have an immenfe number of well built veflels, and carry on a very extenfive trade in the Cafpian Sea. This (Sloboda) large village is fituated on the river Oka, near its difcharge into the Volga. We here pur- chafed knives, fcifl'ars, buttons, &c. as prefents to the natives of fuch places as we might touch at in our voyage. At the diftance of 625 verfts from Mofco we entered an oak wood, chiefly of middle-fized trees, near the Tflieremefe village of Scartog, travelled yj verfts through it, and arrived on MoncLiy the 22d of December, about eight in the evening, ar Kazan, where we found our whole party in good health and fpirits. Kazan Is a regular and well-built city on the river of the fame name, three verfts from its difcharge into the Volga, and fituated in latitude 55° 43', and longitude 49° 15' E. from Greenwich.' The inhabitants, veho are chiefly merchants, confift of Ruflians, B 2 Tartars, I r 4 ACCOT/NT OF AN FXPRDITION Tartars, anil Armenians, and curry on a very confiderablc trade, Ninuhcrs of noblemen rcfule here in the vicinity of their cfl.ites ; and others, who lind motives for retiring from the capital, alio choofc thiii city for their place of rcfidencc. \Vc obferved th-M the grcattll harmony reigned among them, with unbounded hofpitality, efpeclally to us as travellers. It becomes us parti- cularly to acknowledge the great kindnefs that we experienced from the Prefulent of the Admiralty and Direrlfed at feeing the country cleaR'd of every tree, and lying v\alle ; not even a bu(h being to lie feen ; whicli was pretty much the cafe with the wood near Scartog ou the other fiUc uf Kazan. 13 habita&ts 6 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION habitants are Ruffians, Tartars, and Votiaki. The Tartars are Mahometans, and very clean in their perfons and habitations. The women are, in general, very handfome, and drefs extremely neat. They are induftrious, honeft, and peaceable ; and, under their management, a piece of ground of a given extent will pro- duce nearly twice as much as the Ruffians obtain from an equal quantity. All the villages are built in vallies on the borders of rivers, furrounded with gardens and cultivated fields. On Monday the 15th we reached Kungur, a city containing 1800 wooden houfes on the eaft fide of the river Tulva, latitude 57^ 20', longitude §6° 50' E. 2160 verfts from St. Peterfburg: and here the Virchoturien mountains commence. { Atchinfky Krepofl, on the confines of Siberia, is 88 verfts be- yond Kungur; and in this neighbourhood are the iron works of the different rich proprietors living in St. Peterfburg, &c. The inhabitants appear particularly ftrong and healthy ; their houfes are very clean ; and I faw feveral men who were not very infirm at between 80 and 90 years of age. The woods that we had hitherto pafl'ed confifted of fir, common pine, poplar, afp, and birch : here we obferved alfo the larch pine. On the 17th January we arrived at the famous city of Ekate- rineburg, on the Uralian chain, through which the river Ifet flows, and works the gun, anchor, and iron foundries, faw and coining mills, and lapidary, &c. belonging to Government. This •city (lands in latitude 56^ 50', longitude 60° 17' 10", and con- tains about 2000 houfes, fome very elegantly built of ftone, five churches, fchools, &c. Provifions are here extremely cheap ; fifh, JlurgeoD, beluga, and large quabs (nalime) 20 copeaksthe pood, beef 50 cop. %; TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 7 50 cop. rye flour 32 cop. * The laft article, they fa'id, was very dear, having had but a fcanty growth for the laft three years. The poorer forts, and convids, of which only a few work at the mines, find a plenteous and cheap fupply of the falted omul, which appears to me to be a fpecies of herring, but twice as large as the ordinary fort. The circumjacent mountains afford much interefting entertainment to a naturaliil, whofe refearches are fre- quently rewarded with new difcoveries of variations in the works of nature. Exclufive of minerals and malachites (the largeft ever heard of was found here, weighing 107 poods, or 3852 pound* weight, — Pallas), here may be feen an aftonifhing variety of white rock cryftal, with capillary fhbrl of different colours; that with the red was called by Pallas the hair of Venus ; the green was named by Guthrie Thetis's ; the flaxen, Cupid's ; the black, Proferpioe's ; and a dark topaz, containing white (hbrl, Saturn's hair ; ame- thyft, topaz, the Siberian diamond, jafper ftriped and plain, por- phyrys, &c. We now found the face of the country more level, and the woods very much on the decreafe, and pretty well inhabited by Tartars and Ruffians ; the former of whom, befides cultivating the earth, make and fell very neat worfted carpets. On Thurfday the aad we arrived at Tobolflc f , containing 2300 houfes and 23 churches, chiefly of wood, latitude 58° 12' 20", longitude 67° 19' 10", oppofite the difcharge of the Tobol t * A copeak may be reckoned about 3 farthing ; a pood is 36 pounds. ■f This city was reduced to alhes in the year 1787 ; but on my return (in 1794) '^ ^^ rebuilt on a regular plan ; the (Ireets wide, with churches, and a great number of houfes, of brick. Its fituatlon is low, backed by a riftng ground which project over the Irti(h ^ and the iortrcfs is built on its point. into -^ I % 9 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION into tlic Irtifli. It is a place of very coiirulerablc trade, frequent- ed by Samoycds, Tartars, Rufllans, and Siberians j and provifions here arc rather cheaper than at Ekaterineburg. I obfcrvcd that wc had now croflcd the whole of the Uralian chaiii of mountains. Bad weather detained \is here three days, during which fliort ftay we experienced the holpitality of the Governor General Kalhkccn. On Sunday the 25th we left Tobolflc, and found the country low, niarlhy, aiul woody, but well inhabited as far as the Defert of liaraba (Harabinfky Step), fituatcd 3512 vcrlls from St. Petcrf- hurg, and 570 vcrlU in extent. Th'S was not inhabited, but the Kmprcfs about ten years ago built villages all over it at the dif- tancc of 20 to 25 vcrfts. The whole extent almofl: is low and boggy ; i'ome elevated fpots, lunvever, produce ftunted birch, hruihwood, and a little grafs. Tlie weftcra half is well watered by tlic lake Kamyihova, the rivers Omj^Tartas, and Kain. The latter is about the midway ; and here the town of Kainflc is built for ibc protedion of travellers. It contains 125 houfes and a church, all of wood. The inhabitants of all the villages are convids. The caflern half of the defert is almoft dcllitute of wood ; nor is there any water, except in ponds, fetid even at this feafon. Wells arc Auc:;^ but thefe prove fait and bitter. The people, therefore, melt liiow in winter, and colled rain in fum- mcr. The moft extreme poverty, dirt, and mifery prevail over the whole defert, which is terminated by a rifing ground, where Nature fuuilonly aflumes the moft luxuriant change, prcfenting 9. woody country, replete with meadows, corn fields, and well built TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. ^ built vlIl;igC8, inhabited by clean, healthy, and afllucnt Sibc- r'.ins. ^,..,» I On the 4th of February vvc reached Tomfk, a city containing.; about 1500 houfes (latitude 56" 29', longitude 85'' 3'), on the river Toni. Here we law Mr. Patrin, the gentleman appointed by her Imperial Majelly, on the reconiniendution of the very learned l")r. I'.illas, to accompany our travels as naturalifl and botaiiill. lie was on his return to St. I'eterlburg, with a view of roihing to France on account of his health, the flatc of which rendered his longer refidcncc in thefe parts dangerous, and be- reaved us of an invaluable companion. Tbr inb.abitants of thefe parts arc farmers, graziers, and carriers ; and h. . iimous breed of horned cattle, with which, as well as ■with buiter, they fupply all the northern and eadern dlftrl£lsof the empire. They are wealthy, hofpltablc, healthy, and clean, and live under no controul of individuals, only paying a trifling fum to the Captain of the dlftrid:, for Government. The Siberians through- out are more indullrious and independent than any Ruffian pea- fants, live more comfortably, and drink home-brewed beer in addi- tion to (|uafs. The women are remarkably clean ; and I never en- tered any houfc in travelling, night or day, but I found them fpln- nlng flax. I have frecpicntly afktd them why they worked all night; and always received one general anfwcr, " that the days wcrefhort." Inftead of candles, they burn laths of birch wood, which they call lutrtiinka ; a portable Hick, about five feet high, with a foot to it, ferves as their candlcflick ; three nails are driven into the top, forming a triangle ; the lath is ftuck between the nails obliquely, and burns about iour or five minutes : but when they have guefts they burn a candle, the nails fervlng as a iocket. C Their \ i r I *-*»*' i i Ht 10 ACCOUNT OF AN KXPEDITION Their neighbours, to the fouth-eafl:, are feme tribes of Mongals extending to China; and a private trade is carried on, through this channel, by a few of the more intelligent Siberians. On the 14th febniary we arrived at Irkutfk, In a frofl: of 18" of Reaumur, and found all the Command fafe. The Governor General Jacobi being abfent, a courier was difpatchcd to him at Barnaul, to inform him of our arrival. On the 15th, in the morning, the thermometer indicated 28^ below o of Reaumur for about two hours, when it rofe to 20° and 18^: jo'' h the grcateft extremity of cold ever remembered here. \4 ¥M CHAP. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. IX C II A P. 11. j//i fucchidt Account of our TraufaSlions at the City of IrkutJk-^State of our Command — Additional Hands taken there. We were now arrived in the capital of Siberia, and entering on the firfl Icene of real bufinefs, of a nature more extenfivc than this city ever before experienced. Every necefTary article for conftruding two fliips of 85 feet keel was to be received here, except timber : iron, cordage, ammunition, provifion, liquor, ftorcs ; clothing from head to foot, on a moderate computation, for five years ; candles, foap, and every the mofl: trifling commo- dity necefTary for each individual officer, over and above the or- dinary alluwancc for a Command of three hundred men, to be tranfportcd by water and land upwards of four thoufand verfts. It was likcwifc ncccffary to ftow every article in the mofl fecure method in packages, weighing only 2I. poods each, or 90 pounds Englilh weight, to facilitate their tranfport on pack-hcrfcs from the city of Yakutfk, both to Ochotfk and to the river Kovima, where we had to build a vcfTcl of 50 feet keel, with uoats and baidars, for navigating the Icy Sea. No time was lofl in ordering the inflrumchts in very great abundance, with an extra number to fcrve as prefents to favages. Some hands were fcnt, under the command of an officer, to build vefTels at Katfhuga Pril^an, on the river Lena, to tranfport the command 10 Yakutik, &c. HAP. Ca, On -.4 n ACCOUNT OI' AN I'.XIM' HI IION 1 I I I' ft r On tl\c 26th of I'chrunrv we bci^aii to roccivr liatclicts, Iiam- mcrs, i\iul cvcy other inllriimcut ukil l»y ;uliru.(rs in a ilock- \ai\l. • , At h.xW pad three loci; 1m tho nu)rnlii;i; oi" llm ?(1 of March, tl\c city cxpcriiMU'ciI nv.;t fliock of an (.artlHpiakv', wli'uh ladcil ahoiit thtcc Iccoiuls, Imt was not atl*Mulc(l with any hail t:on(c- qncnccs. I''art!mnakc8 here arc lrc([uont, hiil not violent. On the 5th tho emnlor rctmiicil frotn the Oovcrnor General, with orilcrs icv the (Governor to comply with all the dcmatuls of the cxpcilltion. 'I'o forward the hnfmclH, (lajitain nilliii}!;s in- crcafcci his CainiPiat.J, ai^tecalilc to his inllrncliony. I'roni »St, Tctcrfljurg it coiifillcil oi\ Captain jofoph Billings, Cointnandcr ; Rohcrt Hall; Gabriel Santlhell'; ChriiVian Herinp ; Skipper AHanairy Bakofl", to rig llic vcfl'els, and take charge of all (lores ; Stcerman Anton BataholV, i Anton BataholV, 7 . , n c II 1 o-C^Iiidcrs; ocrgev l>ronmKoH,j Surgeon Mich. Roheck. : IVter Allegretli ; Drawing-^h\ile^ Luke Varonin ; A mechanic ; Two under Ihipbuildcrs ; Two furgcons' mates ; One mafter's mate ; One boatfwain ; Three M ■J(^ rilK F.A.STFUN Ori'.AN. ^c. Tlirrc C'ouit Y;if';ciH, lor lliilliii}; hiids iihd hciids ; I'lj-;!!! j>ctty oHlccrs ; S( vcn foldiiTs, Strcltii ; AtuI iMylcIl", as |>iiv,itc f'crrct.iry, ;i:ul jonriialifl ; It) all ilitrfy-fix. »J Tlic ioIlovviniLi; hiiiids wc: cnj;;i(^cil licrc V.ifr.Ky I)i;.k()ii()li; I'ccloi K-upoll", for kc'cpioji; .'icconnfs, and traiirarilitii>ii as MiUiialill anJ Itotanill : ("i[>l,iin mHin.',?;, Iiowi'vu", ili*l not .u cciii tlu' cMVi ; ami .'t wan iiiilv ill' il.iv luliin his tUpartnio ili.il lie Ic-nt iiu- (o Dr. MoiiK (lu'K)n;\r.i}', to tht' linlpil il Iumc) to a(k il l\c wiuilil |;o w'llli us in that i'.i|i,\i it V, wliit h h»- iiniiu'diatt I) ai^rocil to, luit coiilcUrd that ]\c was not a pt »>hiii'ni. Mr. John Main, .\\\ I'ajj^lilhiuan (.iho a niidii al i\ci\tkMnan), vohmtccrnl to j;o as his allillant. 'Iluis \\\ii' niatti'is lltih'il; and all (he ncicllary ailiclcs and books {'/ivcn hv I'rol^iior ralla'. lor Mr. I'atriii, were now oivlcrcd to tlu' dilpolal r Dr. Mii\k, who Kll likutik wiili tis llic vory i\o\l day. n licforc I (juit this place, which, according to the inforniatloii ot" n\\ aciinaintauco, is the lall otany coiilcijucncc that 1 am likely to hchoM till niv return, I Ihall attempt a iummary ikctch oril;> inhabitants, ami their mode ol living. Lieutenant Cencral Ivan VarloloniitUi Jacohi, CJovcrnor Ge- neral, poiVeiring the powers of N'iceroy ; M.\]or General Lamh, his Allillant Governor ; and Mr. Meilvedel}', a very rich individual, keep open houlc, and give a dinner and hall cacli once a week. The remaining days .ue palled in vifiting other opulent Inh;^bltants, either in conle- (juence of invitations, or in the way of iVlemlly call. The let is never broken, thmigh lomctimes dlvldeil into leveral branches ; but thev are always united at every invitation. At dinner a band of mnlic induces an harnionlous circulation of the glals. The loclcty ellabllllied, and tlie liberal hofpltality of tlic nrft order of inhabitants, is I'uperior to that in any part of Rulfiii, and really ■# •|'0 Till'. I'ASrrUN ocr.AN, ^r. »7 really Ucins to infiifc a Ipirlt (if c()nlf(]in'n(<' into tlir rn'mdn of the lower fort of pco|>ic. I think thai tlitir (cIiooIh and theatre coiitrihutc much to tliin ; l)Ut moll ol" nil the tniois to the cliil- ihvn of tin; niori' opnhnt. 'riK:rc |Miiciiilly conCill of ToIch, Swedes, I'lcnch, .u\d (miu: of the Jdiiilir, order, who have heeii tnider the nee'.:(lily of iravellinj;. Nuinhers of nu-ihaniea, arllfls, and artilicorH of jircat al)llillcs, wliofc txerlit)ns were h llilh in Kwllia, here exert llu;infi:lvcK for the henelit of l!:'" toinniunity ; and, an tneril is the chief intro- iIu(^lioM to iMiUitinihMt lociety, lo all who pojkls it meet with liberal encoura^";enuiit ; and, utdcis their chaiadlers arc fiillied hy adils of crin^indity, they are countenanced and lup|)orted. The unfortunate :irc gcneroiilly diilinj'/iilhed from the vill.iinouH. Gc^ Ic, and g dayfi confe- c fct h iiches ; baud he fu-ft [;v, and really T he o/Ticers here, both military and civil, are very mnncrouR ; the former, in cf-nle(|ucncc of this hcin^ the (eat of p;ovcrnment in tlie vicinity of the Chineic and IVIonj!;al territories ; the latter, on account ol the numerous courts of jiiflice, and the nccelfiry dillributions to be maile for the va(l extent of its jurildldlion. I {hall rate thele in two ( laU'es ; ior rank is only a lecondary rccoin- meiulation here : the ^tutleman, who behaves himlelf with pro- priety, tl'ouj^h poor, is completely independent, and every houle is open to hiin ; while the woiihlers are only attended to in tli execution cl their ihit\', and then with great rclervc. In this town there arc neitlicr iiuis nor conee-Iioufcs ; but no flranger, who behaves liiMifeif with common civility, will ever be at a lofs lor a home. I had very good (piarters allotted me by Government, in wliich I had only rcfidcd a few days, when Bri- gadier General 'I'roe'^oJlky invited mc to accept of apartments and D attendants I ¥ i6 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPFDI TION attendants in his houfc : his huly repeated the invitation, wliich I begged iliey would allow nic to refufc. They then fcnt me every noceirary to my h)il^ing, which really compelled mc to accept their lirll off'cr, to lave them greater trouhle. Their manlion was ever after my home ; and their IVlcndlhip will always remain in- delibly imprclli'd on my miiul. All kinds of food arc cheap, as are fpirituous rupiors and liomc-brevvcd beer. Wines arc dear. Many hiMiries are imported from China ; and filks, cottons, linens, furs, nay Englilh cloths, arc moderate. Throughout the whole of Siberia, hofpitality prevails in tiie ex- treme. A traveller is pcrfc^^Iy fecurc on the road, and certain of a hearty welcome wherever he puts up, let the cot be ever fo homely. But whether this hofpitality will continue when they arrive at a certain ftatc of refinement, to which they feem advan- cing with incredible hafle, remains for future times to difcovcr; as alfo whether the expanlion of ideas may not lead to the extcn- lion of territory, and other formal elhfbliduneats. In the morning of the loth of May we had a heavy fall of fnow, which lay on the ground two liours. By noon it cleared up ; and in the afternoon, at fix o'clock, Captain Billings, Dr. Merck, and inyl'cif, left Irkutfk, accompanied by Count Manteuf- fel, Mr. Haak, dec. The Governor Cencral had prepared a fare- wcl fupper for us at his villa, i8 verfts from the city, where we palfcd the night. The next morning, at fix o'clock, we took leave of our friends, witii a moll grateful fenfe of the multi- plicity of favours that we had received during a ftay of tliree months. Our road lay acrofs the Buratfkoi Step, fo called from the immenfe herds of cattle and horfes that the Burati graze here. Thefe are of the Balagan tribe, and, with the Chorintfi, feem TO TFIR EASTERN OCEAN, &c. '9 fccm outoafls from the race of Mongals ; for they liavc no himas, nor letters, hut arc complete deinonolatrlaiis, and confiilt their fore ere rs : all other trihcs of Hiiratl arc intelligent people, have himas, or priefts, ami arc flrid ohfervers of their religious rites and ceremonic? ; their worflilp hcing performed in the Tungut- fki language, in which all their laws are written. They have t'i- fercnt places for particular rites. The ceremony of an oath, or rather a curfc, to prove their innocence, if fufpedled of a crime, ia performed on fomc ieledled mountain : forme y, a very rcmarlc- ahlc one lituatcd near Kiachta, and called Durgutta, was their fa- vourite place ; hut hy a late treaty this mountain fell to the lot of the Chinefe, which cauled great diflatisfaClion to the Burati, and was followed by dcfcrtions. Wc arrived on the I2lh, at two in the afternoon, ii Kutfluiga Priftan, a village containing only 15 houfes, fituated on the river Lena, in latitude ^;^^ 2(3', longitude 107'' 2', 230 verfts from Irkutfk. Here we found nine barks of from 10 to 15 tons bur- then, ready to convey us and our baggage to Yakutfk. The number of packages amounted to 2600, exclufive of fail cloth, cordage, &c. not yet fent from Irkutfk ; to forward which we left behind us Sturman Bronnikoff. Our guns, anchors, &c. were not yet arrived, nor did wc cxpeil th. ^'^ till the next year. On the 14th May, in the evening, wc had loaded all our goods, and got every thing ready for our depaLlure down the river. f three [d from graze lorin tfi, feem D2 CHAP. 90 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION CHAP. III. Departure from Irkutjk, — An Accident. — Remarkable Cave, — The River Lena and its Tributaries. — Arrival at Takutjk. \¥ On Friday the 15th of May, at eight in the morning, Captain Lieutenant Hall fet fail with three barks. At five in the after- noon, Captain Billings followed with the reft, giving the charge of them to Captain Lieutenant Bering. He then embarked in a' dosdiennik * with Dr. Merck and myfelf. Count ManteufFel ftill accompanying us. The night was very dark, with thunder, light- ning, and heavy rain. At midnight we arrived at Vircholenfk, (an oftrog containing 100 houfes, and two wooden churches, fa- mous in thefe parts for its manufaQory of coarfe worfted ftock- ings and night-caps) "^^ verfts from the place of our embarkment, and made faft to the fliore. Captain Bering, a-head of us, ran foul of a merchant's bark, and funk in nine foot water clofe to iliore. We employed all hands in unloading the cargo, and found that, notwithftanding every precaution ufed, the boxes were not water proof. The moment the accident happened, the pilot leaped overboard, and fwara to fhore. At fevcn in the morning of the i6th. Count Manteuffel went, with Dr. Merck, to fee a remarkable cave, 15 vcrfls from hence. 't * A vtfTcl calculated for ;iCC()mmodatiiig a family, with ba^^gagc, down the Lena. It contains lliree cabins: one at the forccaltle, with a feparate entrance ; one in the iridfhips, and tiie otlitr aflern. It is built of boards without a keel, flat bottoincd, about 35 to 40 feet l(Hi(T ; rows and Ih'cvs with long fwceps, two men to each ; is furniflied with a mall, and one fquare fail, aii J named from ilojijl, a board. They TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 21 They returned at two in the afternoon, and gave the following account of their expedition. i' The mountain is called Khacharchai by the Burati, and the cave is fituated about the middle of the afcent, furrounded by large trees of pines and birch. It is about one yard high,, and half a yard wide ; and the outward borders, as alfo the infide,, as far as the eye can reach, are covered with a thick coat of ice. A thermometer in the Ihade was 14° above the freezing point ; while another, placed about a fathom within the cave, flood 4° below it. A pretty frefh wind ifTues from the cave, which, according to the account of the guide, freezes all the fummer, but thaws in winter, when a warm vapour fupplants the chilling breeze. Among a great variety of plants near the place, the Rhe Rhaponticum is the mod prevalent. About half-paft three this afternoon we took leave of Count Manteuffel, who returned to Irkutlk. Mr. Bering*s bark being repaired, and reloaded from two other barks, which were left under the care of Mr. Main to wait the drying of the damaged articles. Captain Billings immediately pro- ceeded with the other four. It !d(hip5, to 40 ift, and I fliall not weary the reader's patience with a clrcumftantial account of every day's progrefs; as I mean to ftate, in an Appen- dix, every ftage that wc pafled from Mofco, noting the number of houfcs, and of verfts, as alfo the time of our arrival and de- parture. Continuing the plan that I at firft adopted, T fliall give a very brief account of this river, to avoid fatiguing my readers, and to encourage 21 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION encourage tlicm to follow me through all the mazes of my progrcfs. , 1 1' The Lena takes its rife from an inconfidcrable lake fituatcd between the mountains near the Baikal, about lOO miles weft fouth-weft of Katfhuga Prilkn (wharf). It flows in a gentle and uninterrupted ftream, though here and tlicrc impeded by (hallows at a late feafon, to about the diftance of 300 miles from its fource, when it deepens confiderably, The diredlion is very winding, but pretty uniformly eafl: north-eaft to Yakutflc, and nearly north from thence to its difcharge into the Icy Sea, about the latitude 71" 30 , and longitude 127^ eaft of Greenwich, after a courfe of 3450 geographical miles. The appearance that it alfumes is continually varying ; in fome places mountains bound the channel on both fides, clothed to the fummit with (lately pines ; in others, they are barren, projetfting into the river, and turning its courfe ; tak- ing fantaftic fhnpes, refembling ruins of large buildings, towers, and churches ; the chafms overgrown with hawthorn, currant- bufhes, dog-rofes, &c. In fome places the mountains retreat in- land for miles, forming a back ground to extcnfive plains, and expofmg a miferably built town, furrounded with cornfields, gar- dens, and parture grounds, with a few herds of cattle grazing j thele openings are frequent at unequal diftances of 5 to 40 verlts from each other, an:' -re always occupied by villages as far as Oli'kiua, iSoo verflb from Katlhuga : all beyond is defolate, ex- cept a few huts inhabited bv convlds, who have the charge of horfes for tlie poll, and the towns of Pokrofiky, Yakutflc, and CJiganfk. The beft of them is only a collection of huts inhabited by prlelh and their attendants, officers and Coflacks, who teach obedience, and enforce the payment of tribute from the wander- I ing TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 23 Ing tribes of Tartars that infeft the neighbourhood, and of whom I ihall have occafion to fpcak hereafter. The rivers that flow into the Lena are, X as ex- :;e uf and )ited leach ider- ing The Ilga, Koot, 1 70 verfts from Kacfliuga. 469 Very near the cftuary of this river is a fait lake, which is very (hallow ; and works, the property of the pre- fent Ifpravink of the difl:ri£l, at which one boiling produces 1080 pounds weight of fait. Marakofka, Makarova, Kiringa, Vitima, 601. 690. 778. 1178.- —This river flows from a lake eaft of the Baikal, It is nearly equal to the Lena, in width, depth, and ex- tent J and is famous for fables, lynx, fox, ermine, fquirrel, and deer. The fables of this river, and of the Momo, which falls into it 300 verfls from the difcharge, are very valuable, and of a fuperior quality. Numbers of Tungoofe travel about here on the chace. Three verfts up this river are the mountains that pro- duce talk. I have feen fpecimens formerly found, 28 inches fquare, and tranfparent as glafs : what is now found :> •4 Pcllldui, ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION found is very fmall, but perfcftly pel- lucid. All the windows of thcfc parts arc glazed with it. 1202— —AiiO famous for the above men- tio.-icd animals, and the lad place tha produces corn. — N. B. Sparrows and magpies were not Ceen further north. They only came here about live years ago, after the ground had be^un to be cultivated. Nuve, Verba, Here we faw the firfl: Yakut or Sochalar. He was our pilot ; very communicative, and good-natured. In this neighbourhood the river is replete with illunds, having on them temporary Tungoofe habitations for iilhing. I fliall refer to thcfc rivers, and dcf- cribc them on a future occafion, in an account of the i\inur. al rivers farther north, i>f no UKitcruiI confe(iucncc. Our navigation only cxtenutd to the tow.i of YakiitHs, 2 390 verfts from Katlliuga. We airlvcd in this town the 29th May, at feven P. M., and immediately ordered the loaded vellcls to erofs the river to the plains j whence the goods are to be forwarded on pack- Patama, 157.^- Oonaghtak, - ^S^S- Olckma, 1822. Aldan, 2600. Viluyc, !3cfidcs fevei al rivers farth TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. jj pack-horfcs. The next clay tlic other barks ardved fafe at the above-mentioned pl.iec. Totranfjiort tlic articles that wc had with us, and the partii's.acrofs the uniid\ahitcd country lo ()ch()t(k,and to the river Koviina, two thnuCand horfes were demanded of the commandant, or military go- vernor, whofc hnCnu Is it ir, to enforce the fime by a paper figned by himfelftothe eonrt of the interior, or land dillridl. The Go- ■/crnor General of Irkntfl;, Jakf)])i, had clofcd a contracft with the merchant iSiheiukolF for proviliom, coniifl.np; of fjonr, peafe, grits, oatmeal, meat, bnttcr, fah', vinegar, l)randy, &c. an 18 months fupply lor 100 men ; and the cnntraiflor bound hiinfelfto deliver the f.imc at Virchnoi Kovima, by the fnii day of Auguft next. Sail-cloth and raw-hides, fcyr making baidars *, were alfo to be delivered by him, loads for more than 2000 horfes. The fame gentleman clofed the contraiTt for the delivery of pro- vifions, ike. at Oei'Otflc, a three years fujiply for 250 men ; tallow for candles, greafc, pitch, tar, &c. &c. Befules the immenfe nnmber of liorfes wanted to tranfport the articles mentioned our gnns, anchors, cables, cordage, fail-cloth, rioih, and flojvs, with amnumitioa of all kinds, Hill remained to be forwarded from Irkutfk. M Thefe horfes were to be obtained from the Yakuti Inluiblting the didrld of Yakutfk, and the Viluye. 1 think it neceffary to re- mark, that to every three loaded horfes, a fparc one is allowed • and a gnide has charge of only fix under loads, two fparc ones • r:ii;!ars arc boats vct7 flit boftomcl, the framei made of twijrs, and covcrc;! vi'th lcat!;ir : tlity arc I'o light, that fuur iik-ii tan carry llam v.iih cafe, ai;(i aic rowtd with i"u or liglit oars, ^ and 26 ACCOUN^T OF AN EXPEDITION and one upon which he rides ; fo that where iooo horfcs are demanded, 30CO are eniploycd. Tiic lefler niimher is paid for at the rate of one copeak a veril J)er horfe : tlie average rate cf travelling is 20 verfts each day. J was furprifed at the aftonifliing activity that appcsved in every oflicer civil and military, from the Inn. to the ic>(l, in voh;nteering to go to feme tribe or other of the Y.iiaiti to procure horfes ; b'.it the grand point could not long remain a fecret : fc thcii- excefs of zeal (at, is the c.ife in mult zealojs meafurcs) led to an open breach between the military and civil government, which laltcd juft long enough fc" each to explain the interefted views of the other. Afier they had done thi<; in the mofl forcible manner, and completely vented their r.ige, they began to deliberate j when it appeared, that both parties agreed upon the whole, and that the extent of the commiifion would admit of a general divifion . fo they foon made up their minds to fend fome of each party with official authority. Univerfal harmony was immediately reftored ; and each commifiioner went with a full refolution to ferve his em- ployer in the bcft manner he could, with propriety to himfeif. This was the firft town in which T obferved the officers from the highefl: to the lowefl: ranks form the poorer fet of inhabitants • tvhile the Coffiick Sotniks *, and Pyat f Defetniks (petty offi- cers), were the mod affluent. They are chiefly Sinboyarfki J, well acquainted with the languages of the Yakut!, Tungoofe, &c. and are always employed in offices of truft. We found the beft entertainment among them ; at the fame time they appeared the * Commanders of 100. i" Commanders of 50. t The lowed clafs of gentility, conferred upon the Siberians for fome particular achieve* Mcnt or dlfcovery. more ■i I fcs are Lid for rate cf 1 every itcering :s ; bnt c exccfs m open h laib:cl s of the ncr, and when it that the ; fo they 1 official ed ; and his em- mfeif. ^rom the ^bitants ; lily offi- -^arfki J, lofe, &CC. the befl: tared the lilar acliicvc« more VJiS TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, Sec. %y more welcome guefts at the habitations of their fupcrior officers, where they pay their refpeds in the mofl; flattering manner, and never experience a refufal in a proper appUcation for an advanta- geous miffion. I had my quarters at the houfc of the com- mandant, with Captain BilHngs. In the evening of tlie jih June, the firfl: party was difpatched, under the command of Mr. Bakoff, with 136 loaded horfes. Captain Lieutenant Hall had tlic charge of the parties to Ochotfk, and Captain Lieutenant Bering of thofe to the Kovima. Yakutfl^ contains 362 wooden houfcs, five churches, and a ca- thedral. A monaftery is now building, latitude 62"^ I'jo" north, longitude iicf'^ 34' eaft, on a fhallow branch of the river Lena, three verfts weft from the main channel [which is four vcrjls acrofs)^ fituated on a low fandy plain, fixty verfts long, in a diredion north- weft, and eleven broad, producing chiefly wormwood, thiftles, a few flowers, and wild onions ; here and there clufters of hawthorn bufties and oziers, with currants, dog-rofes, and rafp- berrics. It is bounded to the weft by a ridge of iaconfiderable but woody mountains, from which the inhabitants obtain fire- v,'Ood. Never was there a town In a worfe fituation than this. The branch of the river on which it is built is dry by the middle of July, and continues fo all winter, the inhabitants having to go the diftance of tlu'ee verfts for water. Although the river abounds with fi{h, they receive their fupplies of that article, as r-lfo of meat, from about the Viluye, 400 verfts down the river. Vege- tables are brought them from the neighbourhood of Kiringa, i6jo verfts up the livcr. E In 1 ■ «8 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION fc i^ ; n I In the month of June every ncceflary of life is brought hither down the Lena ; and tlils is called the Yarmank. During this time every trader has permiiTion to hire a public fliop, and fell his ware ; and this is the time at which the opulent lay in a twelve months' rtock ; for at the expiration of the month, the privilege of trading is only vefled in the hands of the burghers, who nuike their own prices : thefe confid of five or fix. SiberakofF, the contrador, has a houfe here, and at prefcnt occupies it himfclf, to fuperintend in perfon the dilpatch of the articles for the expedi- tion. During our Hay, lie may be fuid to have kept open houfe for the entertainment of the chief inhabitants and our gentlemen. On Tuefday the 9th June we took leave of our friends in this city, after a ftay of 10 days, and croffed the Lena, which is four verfts over, to the plains, called the Yarmank, from being the general rendezvous for all travellers, traders, and tranfport goods, to the eaftern and north-eafl: parts of the empire. Mere arc ex- tenfive meadows, producing grafs in abundance. The moll; pre- vailing plant that 1 oblerved was wild (lax, fome with white, and fome with blue flowers ; and a remarkable plant which ihe RuIIians rail Zcmlennoi Laudon, or frankincciile of tlie eartli : this is not a gum, but an aromatic root, given to children and to adults lor j)ains in the bowels ; its fmell is very like tluit of fnakeront, though in appearance it is not fo fibrous. Maiden-hair grows in abundance, and is collecllcd, dried, and ufed by the Coffacks in- ilead of hops. The Yakuti alfo make ufe of it occafu^Mally, with: juice of berries and water, to drink. Some fandy places are over- grown with hcrfe-radifh and wild onions. On Wcdnefday the loth June, at nine o'clock In the morning, all our baggage and food for the road were loaded on pack-horfes, II itbout root, ,-s ill in- wlth )VLr- TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 29 about five pooda on each, and we commenced an equeftrlan route. Our party confiRcd of Captain Billings, Dr. Merck, Mr. Robcck, Mr. Main, and mylclf, two petty oflicers, and nine privates, with an adequate number of Yakiiti to * ]^c care of the horfes and ferve as guides. We travelled tliis day 28 verlls, to the folilary habitation of a Yakut, where wc halted and pitched our tents for the night. The next day we made 49 verfts. On Thurfday the i6th of June we arrived, about eight P. M. at the river Amga, or Anga, which falls into the Aldan, and were ferried over to the habitation of a Yakut (who has charge of the ferry, in company with a Colfack), 237 verfts from Yakutlk. The face of the country hitherto was undulated, confifiing of wood, meadows grown with fine grafs, and an immcnfe diverfity of flowers, romantic lakes,fome of them very extenfive and replete with iflands ; and here and there a folitary hut, the habitation of fome herdfman. We faw and Ihot a great number of wild fowl, ducks, curlews, &c. From the Anga to the river Aldan, we found the country rather mountainous, more woody, and bearing lefs grafs. Here we arrived on Thurfday the i8th. The weather had been extremely hot and fultry all the way from Yakutflc j but we had here a thunder ftorm, which cooled the atmofphere. The habitations on the north fide of the Aldan confifl of foui- huts, one belonging to Coflacks who guard the ferry, the reft to Yaknti with horfes. 331 verfts from Yakutfk the river is 500 fathom wide, flowing to the v/eft, and well ftocked with fiih, as are aUb the neighbouring lakes. The woods abound in w'!d beafts and game ; and the plains are inhabit^?d by very opulent Tartars, who poflefs immenfe numbers of horl'cs and licrds of catde. The fouth of the river is bounded by perpendicular iuoun- ": J i $9 ACCOUNT OF AN rxpFDirroN mountains 70 fathom lii|Li;li, compollnl .it the hafc ot.i hanl Tandy Aonc replete with petrilictl trees, very Inrj^e, all lyin^; one way, the roots north-well, and the tops in the mountains lonth-t all, Ahovc there is a llratum of looll land-floncs and Imall talcarcous ihells, with loft f!;rciiulh earth that ha« a talle like copperas and a ftrong lintU, atul halls of lulpluir. A llratum follows of a much harder Hone, very eompacl, and impregnated with oyller, fcollop, ami other larger Hulls. Another llr itutn of petrified lea weeds, and wood ; and then a llratum of fmall mulele (hells in a very hard and eompai::! grcyllone, fome of which, when hrolcen, arc found to he full of line eryllals, »l\;c. I'his mountain is fix verlls in length, and ahout ^00 I'rom the ncareft lea. Here we found and left the lull detachment, to divide into fmaller parlies. (\iplain IVdlings rcfolved on profeeutlng his journey to Ochotlk vith all pollihle fpeed ; to aceomplilh which, he left all his hag- gage with tlie party here, and oidy took necellaries for the road ; and in the evening of the i()th we leli the Aldan Avith twenty- one horfes. Our party conlllled of Mr. Rohcck, Dr. Merck, antl mylelf ; a petty oiliccr, two guiiles, and an interpreter. We now left the fertile and inhabited plains, and get intangled in woody mountains and moralles ; rivers and torrents rulhing down the mountains^, and all the produdions of nature changing, except the larcii and Ins, which were now Hunted ami ill grown. Wc found large fpots covered with wild rhubarb ami rofemary ; Rhc Rhaponticum and Ledum Talullre; jiuiiper, brufli-wood, pinks, thyme, &c. 1"he climate equally altered, the air becoming cold and raw. I ! ^ i We anlvcd at the ford of the IkTia Rcka (White River) on .Sun- day the 2 ill of June, at two P. M. j but found too much water to ju 111 fy TO TIIK EASTFRN OCEAN, kc. 31 juflify an attempt to crofs it. \Vc llicrcforc placed :i mark in tlic river, ami, ohl'erviDg that it was fullinp; (lowly, pitched our tents, and the next morniiij^ perceived but very little alter.itiou in the river. b road ; cnty- ;, and c now woody n the xecpt Wc ; Rhc pinks, cold r\ Sini- ater to juRify Captain nillln^';s, impatient to proceed, tried In many places to crofs ; at lafl his horle got into deep water, and he was forced to fvvim over, "i'he ri\er it; ahout 200 fathom wide, and the ilreain was about i'evcn knots, at the coMiMiencemcnt of a rapid, over Iaip;e Hones ; but the deep part was not above 15 fathom over. 1 lent him a V'akut guide and an interpreter, with fome dried bread, brandy, tea and fugar, and my fmall tent. Dr. Merck at- tcmjited to crois ; but the rapidity of the ftreain made irnn fo j;iddy, that he fell oH' his horle where the water wan only knee deep, and returned. A boatl'wain's mate, Kopman, volunteered, whom I permitted to j;o with a lecond guide, fome fpare horfes, and bed elf)lhes ; and lucky it was that I lent a guide with him, or he and his horfe would have gone down with the current. As I was very well mounted, I alfo fwam acrofs fafely, and made a good lire, at which we dried and refrcHied ourfelves, and pro- ceeded. Our party was now reduced to five horfemen in all, and nine horfes ''"', two grey hounds, and a pointer. Our ftoek of piovifions confifted of twenty pounds of dried bread, two bottles of brandy, with a little tea and fugar, for a journey of 6co verfls through an nninhablted country. We experienced grca*: advan- tage from travelling with few horfes, as we had It; "; diniculty in getting forward ; and a very fmall plat of grafs at once af- forded us a lialting place for the niglit, and furniflicd food for tliem. * Captain Billings kft one of llic guides with diie;, !'>ul lo Imall c,\- nor;;, with I.inmiti, ^',lkllli, ;iinl .1 ll'w Rulll.ins, went otil to Ir.i, aiul ii'Uirncil with (ho tiilr at noon, thivlni; hcl(.)ii' them an ini- MMMilr nunilior ol' ilu' lv\;i!nck, caili'il Tuipan. \\ hrn tlu-y were }!;ot into the hav ol Kiu htni, ahout a mile Irom its ililchaige into the iea, thev were Iniioumleil h\- more llian ^00 eanoes, drawn up in a reindar hni", lormin;'; a erelei-nt. I Ini-i inrleli vl, the tide lek iheni in ahont h\ iiiihis water, anvl all llie eanois were ngrnnnd. .\ lii\nal t>;iicei" (the poliev niaiUi) appoinied hy the. eoini. andaiu j;ave the word lor a [general atl ikk, when a kene ot" tlie .noil whinilieil eonlnlion enined. Men, women, and ehiU dien, i">lun.%\l in an inllant into the water; Ionic armed wllli flunt hUulireonr., and (Others wit!-, llrimrs and nets. While one knoekcd on the iiead all that eame in his ov her wav, others ot the fame party Itinn;,;- or netted them, all Innly hinly, hnddling over eaeh other. No iield of battle is rnhicd to Ineh a variety of ineidents ami iranli'ions. An ili-ilire^led Mow fometimes lighti; 0!\ the hand of a friend, ii'lKid ol' the head ot" t!ie foe. Snd- dee.ly the dirieks, ieoldin.v, ,;;k1 l\ve.;rini:; of the women, and wranglin;.; amon;; .dl, e!ia;i;'y to pe.il^ of lan_i;l!ter anil merriment ; and the fnpplie.itiiMi i^t the dnrks,and the noile ol'nixiiails or^ulls hovering ahont, l(Mni tlie llranjvll !ned!e^■ of lonnds, perhaps, that were ever heard. Tiie wiMn^n eaughr !)v far the groa!er (pian- tity ; .in<] the whole lunnl^er dellroyed amonnled to moie than Uk thoinaiid five hiuuhed. Tk.e TurjMn is .is large as a don\elVie ilnek. T'he neek ihort ; the hill hkuk, diort, and narnnv, with a eallous knob on tiie neftrils. Tlic leatiiers !)!aek, with dark g;rey fpotv They moult all the cinill fcatliers at oiiLe, and eonfequcntly cannot lly ; heini; driven, TO Tllli I'.ASri-'.im OCI'AN, fifc. 3; driven, tlicMcforc, into (1i;ill{ America,, laden with Inrs. lie left Oehotik in the month of Jidy 1781 ; arrived o\\ the 10th Augull at Bering's illand, where he pafTed the winter; the leiond winter he (pent at Of)nalafhka ; the winter of lyh)'] at I'lince William's Sound, and the years 1784 and 1785 at Unga, an illand (^irAlaklh. Captain Billings's InflriKnions recommended his travelling from Ochotlk in the tranfport vellel to Izlhiga j to croCs the country of the Tfliutfl<.l, and defeend the river Omolon to the Kovima ; but it appeared not pra(l>ical)Ic for more than twr; or tlircc in company to go this road, which was rendered fH!l in'v uncertain, owing to the natives being on a doubtful footing of irienddiip v.illi the Ruffians. This intelligenee was confirmed iiy reports to Govern- ment broiight by the trani'port velh.l that arrived on the 8tfi inflanr. Major ShmalefT, now in this tov/n, was the commanding ofTi- cer at I/Jliiga, or I/higinfk, where he was cdeeined to a degree of adoration by the favage neiglibours, when a Lieutenant Polo- fofl' was fent thither to fupcrintend the difeipllnc of the few fol- diers in the garrilbn. This man preferred feveral fccret charges rvgainf^ the major, wlio was in confcqucncc ordered to the go- vcrnn^cn': 3S ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION vcrnmcnt city of Trkutflv to anfvvcr tlicm ; but illncfs has pre- vented his going tartlicr. The Tihutfkl and Koriukl, arriving at l/Hugn after his do-^ parturc, made inquiries after their okl jricml. Receiving no latisfatTlory account?, however, and not nuefing with the treat- ment that they were accuftomcd to, tlicy refufed the payment oi tlieir tribute to tlic new oilicer, who iniuhetl and threatened them. Tiiev therefore left the place in the niglu in great dilguft, vowing revci.je againft: the dellroycr of tlicir piotedor, as they called Shmaleir. ''^f ? I The very heavy complaints on all fides againd Polofoft' induced the chancery of the Port of Ochotlk, under whole jurifdidion I/,- ihiga rtandSjto order him away with the tranfport veilel fent there lart ipring, and to leave the command of the place to a ferjeant ; vvhofe reports foon arrived, reprefenting the neceflity of Major Shmaleff's return to fet matters to rights, and appeafe the wrath of the favages, who would not permit a RufTuui to go among ihem. Polofofi'wcnt immediately to Irkutflc, and, having fpent all liis money, infinuated himfelf into the acquaintance of Captain Bil- lings, who, on a fuggellion of the governor's, that he migiit be of fcrvice, engaged him in the expedition, and brought him back to this place. An old man now refiding In this town, a native of the Kovima, Lobaflieft*, vs-ho has accompanied feveral expeditions to the Icy Sta, reprefented an eafy way to the Kovima by tht Amicon, and cifered to guide Captain Billings ; affuring him, that die rovinj.^ Tvingoole / TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &r. S9 Tungoofe on the road would put him to rights (liould he err. The Lamuti or Tutigoofe here confirming this intelligence, the refolution was taken ; nnd on the 2 2d July Captain Billings de- manded 93 horfcs for his conveyance, with baggage, &c. On the 25th, a courier was difpatched to the Amicon to procure a change of horfes. On the 27th, the laft of our parties arrived from Yakutflc, with, the baggage in pretty good condition. Gn Thurfday the 30th of July, the commandant of this port (Lieutenant-Colonel KozlofF Ugreinin) prefented an official pa- per to Captain Billings, reprefenting the variance between the Ruffians and the natives near the fort of Izffiiginfk, and recom- mending Major ShmalefF (now here on account of the falfe repre- fenlations made by Lieutenant Polofoff), to be fenl to Izihiga, on the par^ of the expedition, to regain the friendfhip of the Tihut- fki and Koric.ki. Major Shnialcff, ori application, immediately offered to go, with great affability, and in full confidence of fuccefs. He is near 60 years of ago ; rather above fiK foot high, and very ftout ; but has been fome time ill, and is ftill rather infirm. His difpofition is mildnefs and good nature itfelf ; and no man in the world ever bore a better charader. He offered to fail with the tranfport veffel now ready for Izfhiga ; and was direded to fecure two in- terpreters and two Coffacks of the Izfhiga command, and, after pacifyii.g the natives, to proceed to Virchni Kovima, and join us as foon as poffible ; which, he faid, he fuppofed would be about next March. He was fupplied with money for his expences, and trinkets for prefents. Captain- 40 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION I i- i • Capta'm-Lteuteriant Hall now received directions to fuperlh- tend the building of fliips here, inftoad of Caplain-Licutonant Saretflicff, who was ordered to accompany us. Hj departed with Mr. BakofF and the party for the Kovim? on the irt Augud ; Captain Billings, with Dr. Merck, Mr. Robcck, myfelf, and a few attendants, meaning to follow in t\vo or three days ; hut be- fore I leave this place, I beg Icav^e to lay before the reader the followir.-j- p.ccount of its fituation. The c\\\ of Ochotlk is in latitude 59'^ 19' 45", longitude 145'' j() : huilr on a neck of land five verfts long, and from 15 to 150 fatL' •. wide, and its dircdion due eafi:. It is chiefly compofcd of fancl, i 'glcvS, and drift wood, the whole thrown up by the furf. The fea bounds it to the fouth, the river Ocliot to the north, and its eftuary terminates the neck of land. The town occupies the fpace of about one verft in length, contains 132 mi- ferable wooden houfes ; a church and belfry ; fevcral rotten llorehoufcR ; and a double row of fliops, badly flocked with handkerchiefs, filks, cloth, leather, and very bad trinkets j hams, butter, flour, rice, &c. The air is unwholefome in the extreme, a<; fogs, mifl;s, and chilling winds, conftantly prevail, which fo much afl'ed the pro- du(fls of the earth, that nothing grows within five verfls of tlie fea. Here flunted and withered larch-trees commence fcantily j they thicken at 10 verfts ; at 15 verfts a ridge c inconfulerable mountains are crofltd, which {can to flop the effects of the fta air ; for trees become more lizcable, meadows not unfrequent ; and a few indigent Yakuti live hereabouts, with a very fmall number of horfes and cows, chiefly belonging to the inhabitants of ;.^'hotflc ; who, except two prieds, and the DfTicers of the 3 courts 'mi m 'mm ''kdi II \ >: ^ V \ ^ ■ v^^ •> N X" ^ V TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 4« courts of juflicc, confill of failors, Coflacks, and their families, the mofl; dninken fct I ever faw ; but, even in their excefTcs, obe- dient, and never infulting to their fupcriors. The fcurvy rages here with great violence, owing, perhaps, as much to want of attention and clcanlinefs in the inhabitants, as to the climate. riHi is the chief food ; but the finny tribe appear Lte, the firll glut of Oilinon afcendlngthe rivers at the latter end of June. Both men and women are employed in the fifliery, which they pradife with a net about 20 feet long, and tliree or four broad ; one part funk with ftones, while the other is kept afloat by pieces of the bark of poplar. The net is puflaed into the river, by means of a )f)ng pole, while the fi flier ftands on the beach. One perfon fome- times has three nets, and catches during a tide from eight to twelve liundrcd. When filhing is over, they fit down on the beach, fplit the fifli, and hang them up to dry for a winter's flock for thcmfelves and their dogs, which are ufed for draft, and each houfeholder on an average keeps twenty. Every fpring is a time of fcarcity of provlfions ; the dogs then be- come fo ravenous, that it is not uncommon for them to deflrov one another ; and l!ie fiifl: horfes that arrive are generally torn to pieces. On our arrival, we dined with Mr. Saretchefl" on cold road beef, which tailed fo fiihy, that we thought it had be^a baftcd witlt train oil. In the afternoon we drank tea at the Command- ant's : this alfo tafted of iiflj ; and when I mentioned it to our hoft, he recommended tlic next cup without cream, w'licli was very good. He told me, that the cattle had been 'ic'\ for th.c lad i^w weeks entirely upon the offals of fitli, and that ihc eows pre- ferred dried falmon to hay. G The !'i*l? > J' 42 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEPI TION' The liarbour is formcil by ihe river Ochor, flowing from thcs wefl and north-wed into the ipacious Bay of Iviichtui, 14 ^'J■i\^^ long, and about four wide ; Ihallow, and more than three- fourths dry at low water. A river that gives name to the hay falls Into its north-caflern extremity under the Mariakan mountains. Thefe two rapid torrents, at their jundion, are eontinually fporting with the banks, removing fome, enlarging otb.ers, and throwing up new ones: the beds of the rivers are eompofed of loofc pebbles, from about the fize of a pigeon's egg to that of a fwan's. The main channel of the Ochot is only navigable for fmall empty vefl^els one mile upwards ; for in manv places the depth is only one-half to two and a half feet, or fix to eight feet at higii water. 1 I i The communication with the fea has the appearance of an ar- tificial cut 250 fathom wide, about 150 long, in a diredion due fouth, and from fix to feven fathom deep : the current three to five knots ripling. The hidden check that the ftream receives from the fea is the caufo of-; Irok in the form 01 a crefcent, fouth fouth- weft, and weft, the diibn,.:e i-f a mile and half out : a bar continues to extend wcftward, leaving a channel live feet deep at low water only, 30 fathom wide, but frequently fliifting ; and this is the only navigable paflage. A very violent furf conftantly breaks over the bar, and all along the ftiorc. At the time of the ecpiinodial gales, the fpray wets t!ie houfes of the town, and feems to threaten the deftrudion of the whole place. Shoal water continues out to fea ; and at the diftance of eight miles, the depth is only 10 fa- thom, with a bottom of loofe ftones, not compad enough to hold an anchor againft even a moderate breeze of wind. Such is the pidure of a place where we purpofe building two fhips of 260 to 800 tons burthen ! CIIA1\ TO 11 IK EASTr.RN OCEAN, tec. 43 CHAP. V. Di'Piirtiirc from Ochotjl. — The T Tc- Jifcribcci.—^Aniicon.—^ Thrill Urih'h. — Zajljic I Kovima. In the evening ol' the 3d of Auguit wc left Ochotflc, and tra- velled about eight verfts, when we halted. Kopman, ihc boat- fwain's mate, who I'wam over the.Belaia Reka to Captain Billings, in crofllng a fmall branch of the Ochot, which led to our halting place, fell from his horfc, and was drowned ; nor could we then by any means find his bod/. It was, however, difcovered a few days afterwards by a Yakut ; the head much bruifed, and a fowl- ing piece, which was flung over his flioulder, bent : probably in his fall he had got entangled with the horfe's legs. The next day we came to the fpot where our people were cutting timber, near Mundukan, a branch of the Ochot, in a grove of fizeable larch. On the 7th, at noon, wc forded the Ochot, and arrived at the dlfcharge of the river Ark, among the fummer habitations of the Tungoofe, who treated us with berries, and the women enter- tained us with a dance. On the 9th we crofTed the Agliklt, on the borders of which, at the foot of a mountain ctsUed the Ooycga, are ten fummer huts in- habited by Tungoofe. Captain Billings, defirous of getting for- ward with all pofTible fpced, obtained from them 22 rein-deer, and halted the next day to rcfrefh our horfes ; the neighbourhood O 2 producing 'iu IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // z 1.0 I.I I^IM 2.5 2.2 1^ 1^ I!! m - lis lllllio 1.8 1.25 1.4 1 1.6 ■• 6" ► V] <^ /2 /: // '/ /A Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 'o C/. / 44 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION t producing plenty of good grafs : we are here 200 vcrfts north north-weft of Ochotflc. On the I ith I received difpatches for Captain Lieutenant Be- ring, at Virchni Kovinia, defiring him to proceed from thence to Seredni, and colledl timber to build three floops for navigating the Icy Sea ; if, upon enquiry, there appeared a probability of procuring wood ; if not, to ftay at Vircimi. Having with nit- the fhip-builder and my fervant, at three P. M. I left the party, mounted on a beautiful young rein-deer ; the faddle placed on its fhoulders, without ftirrups ; no bridle, but a leather thong about five fathom long tied round the head of the deer ; this is kept in the ridcr*s left hand, that he may prevent its efcape if he falls, and, when refrefhing, have a little fcope to fe- \t€t its food. A flrong ftick about five feet long afhfts the rider to mount ; though the Tungoofc, for this purpofe, ufe their bow ; (landing on the right fide of the deer, they put the left leg upon the faddle, lean on the flick with the right hand, and fpring up with aftonidiing apparent cafe ; we, however, could not effcd it by any means without afliftance ; and, during about three hours travelling, 1 dare fay that we fell near twenty times. The top of the faddle is fquare and flat, projeifling a few inches over the fides of the ceer; the feat is fecured by drawing up the calves of the legs toward the thighs, and clinging faft to the projeding parts of the faddle, which at firfl: caufes aftonifhing pain to the thighs : by the third day, however, I became a very expert rider ; the fhipbuikler could not manage it at all, and went for the molt part on foot ; of courfe my travelling was not very expe- dit'rous, 0a ours :Of clcs the Its of chs : the liio (t wpe- a X- / • ^ J St m: ' .'■'■■''iV!l''lf«"W TO TFIE EASTERN OCEAN, Scllal to fubmit. We profccutcd our journey the next morninjc;, anil arrived at Zafl^iverlk on the 3d of Septeinl)er at noon. 1 made immediate applieation to the mayor (Mr. Samfonoff) for his ailillance, not only regarding my travelling the bed way, but with refped tj provilions, mine of every kind being completely eshauned in tluj morning, and I hoped here to procure a fmall lupply. Mrs. Samfonofl' gave me lomc tea, fugar, and bread, out of a very fmall ftock of their own. They were very happy to fee a European, the fn-fl: (except a general in exile) that they had be- held for four years ; and their behaviour was extremely polite and kind. . i t This town contains one churcli, five ifba*s, or Ruflian houfes, and 21 huts, on a boggy point of land running into the Indigiika. The oppofite Ihores arc barren pcrj'tonclicular mountains, pro- ducing in ravines liere and there a iluntcd larch-tree, as defcribed in the annexed Engraving. Its fituation I compute in latitude 66^30 north, longitude 142'' 10' eaft. The inhabitants confift of the mayor and his wife ; the captain of the diftritl and his wife, now rcliding (for the lake of filhing) 40 vcrfts down the Indigiika; two priclls, brothers, and their attendants ; two writers j and all the rell are Collacs. The mountains embay the town call:, fouth, and weft } fo that the fun is only vifible three hours and 30 minutes at this feafon ; from the 12th November till the 6th January O. S. it is hid, and the place is enveloped in night. On :'i:il|||lli^ :he N ^ >. > -^~ N M TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 5i On the 4th, at five P. M., we left Zafliiverfk upon the fame horfes that brought us, but with two guides. The next day we crofled the Indigirka at the ferry called Samondran, 40 verfts from the town. A little to the north of this place we obferved the branch of the Virchoyanflci chain terminate by low and de- tached mountains ; the Ardic flats fucceeded, which are very boggy, except here and there an elevated fpot producing a duller of Hunted larch-trees, oziers, and alders ; the other parts are oc- cupied by an immenfe chain of lakes, all joining by narrow runs. On the 1 3th we arrived at thrc inhabited RufTian ilba's on the river Uyandina, near its difcharge into the Indigirka, about the latitude 67 ' 45', and longitude 148° ^s'' Thefe people carry on a trifling trade with the wandering Tungoofe, and the Yakuti, that go in queft of mammont's tufks, giving in return dried fifli,, and flour, with fome articles of drefs and ornament. Near this place we recrofled the Indigirka, and travelled nearly eaft to the Alafey mountain, which I eftimate in latitude 67^ 8', longitude 153° 10' ; from hence our road led nearly fouth ; the country became more uneven, and better wooded, to Virchni Kovima, where I arrived on the 28th September, after fuflfering innumerable hardfl^.ips in this roundabout road, and being the laft 16 days without either bread or fait, living merely on dried fifh of bad quality. Captain Billings had arrived on the 8th, and all his party a few days after him. Captain Bering was here only four days before him ; but part of his convoy were not yet arrived, though they left Yakutfl;: on the i6th of June, The glafs was now 18'' below the freezing point of Reaumur, and all the rivers were frozen over fufHcientIv to fupport horfes. CHAP. '(-'■:! i4 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION M CHAP. V. Meeting of the Command^ under c'lrcumjlances of difficulty, — Re- fe&ions. — Vifit the Tukagirl. — Occupations on our return,—^ Virchni Kovimfkoi and its Inhabitants defcribcd. — Cojfacs. llowEVER happy I confidered myfelf on rejoining my compa- nions, the profpedt that it opened to my view was truly melan- choly. No provifions had arrived, although the contradlor's time for the delivery was ftipulated at furtheft for the ift of Auguft. The ftock that we had was infufficlent for the road ; and the in- habitants, confiding of eight males, were in a miferable fituatioa themfelves ; for, not expeding fuch a number of vifitors, they had not made any preparation for them, and had only fecured a fcanty winter's fupply of fifh for their own ufe. To add to the general calamity, the rivers and lakes were now deftitute of fifh. The habitations were five half decayed ifba's, and one extenfive hut, befides a chafovnoi (houfe of prayer), which neceffity compelled us to convsrt into barracks. Two earthen huts were immediately conflructed, one for our Izlhiga CoHacs, who wifhed to live together ; the other I took, with Meffrs. Main and Varonin. Two {heds alio were eroded ; one for our inftruments, &c. the other to fcrv . as a work-fliop for our fliipbuilders ; thefc were covered with fail-cloth. We alfo built a fmithy. Captain Billings fent all the liorfes that he could colled to fetch in fuch provifion as might be found fcattered about the roads and woods, by the falling of Slberakoff's horfcs, and at no great diftance. On TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 55 On the 2ad of 0<5tober, the laft of the party, under Captain Bering's charge, with baggage, &c. arrived, which increafed our number of working hands to 78, exclufive of Yakuti. Every ar- ticle was more or lefs damaged, and many things were loft and left behind at different places, where the pack-horfes had died of fatigue and want of food. Soon, however, we were relieved by frequent arrivals of flour and butter. On the 26th the finithy was finiflied, and a travelling forge ereded, which we had brought with us. Timbers were prepar- ing for building a vcflel of 50 feet keely and every thing going on with the greateft alacrity, although numberlefs difHculties were to be furmounted, and all hands reduced to a forry pittance of bread and fait. Notwithftanding all this, a fpirited and de- termined refolution exifted every where. The Yakuti within 150 verfts fupplied horles to drag the felled timber three verfts up the river Yafaflinoi to the fheds. Wiers were made and placed in the river to enfnare the finny fry ; but none made their appearance until the 29th, when 45 large nalime were caught, and the next day Co, which afforded great refrefhment. With the month of November the weather came in almofl in- fufferably cold ; the thermometer indicated from 32° to 37*^ and 41° below o of Reaumur; .mercury proved of no ufe in meafur- ing the degrees of cold beyond 321° ; but our fpirit thermometer never froze. I (hall take the liberty to infert here our thermo- metrical remarks for eight days, with one of Mr, Morgan's, filled with fpirits. Kov. 22. "S3**^ 55 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION Nov. 2J. 4 A. M. 6 8 12 M. 4 P.M. 6 8 Strong N. lights 12 83. 4 A.M. 6 8 12 M. 4 P.M. 6 8 Strong N. lights 12 24. 4 A. M. Light 6 Airs 8 A. M. 12 M. 6 P.M. Strong N. lights 12 25. 4 A.M. 12 M. 4 P.M. 6 8 12 20. 4 A.M. 8 12 M. 8 P.M. 12 27. 4 A. M. 6 8 12 M. 4 P. M. 8 12 38i 39i 39' 38^ 39 39i 39 »^ 40 37i 36 32 32 32J 32 i 30.^ 33 34 35 36 35k 35 36 34^ 341 35 36 37 38 39I 4of 40 1 4oi 41 1- 4oi 4ot 40 38 39 40 40^ S.W. Light airs. 9 ounces 9 frozen in 2 hourS) the earth, ice of the river, timber of the houfes, &c. cracking, with re- S. S. E. ports equal to that of a mulket. 10 ounces of Mercury in a ftopped phial froze in 2 i hours. About 10 o'clock the g in a ftopped S. E. phial thawed. Little wind. Mercury frozen. N. B. About half an hour only ; during which time Mercury was not com- N. pletely thawed, and was foon quite frozen again. S.W. N.W. S.E. N.E. Little wind. Ditto. Thick fog ; the earth and river crack- ing violently. Very light airs. Quite calm. At 9 A. M. a bottle fealed with Aftracan brandy (called here French brandy) cxpofed to the froft, thick- ened very much, but was not frozen. 23. \ TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. $7 WW. 28. 4 A.M. 37! E.N.E. 8 33 S. E. 12 M. 3 2 J Mercury thawed. 4 P.M. 31 6 30* 8 , 3»i 9 jai At io<'3o'obferved 5J frozen. 12 M. 36\ At 33^ 29. 6 A.M. 38.; to 39»allday. 30. 6 A.M. 35 i S.S. W. Little wind. 8 33 12 M. 3 if- Mercury thawed. 4 P.M. 3'i 8 32 12 N. 3* At 37^ it was almoft impoflible to fell timber, which was as hard as the hatchet, except it was perfedly dry; and in the greateft fever ity the hatchets, on ftriking the wood, broke like glafs. Indeed it was impoffible to work in the open air, which compelled us to make many holidays much againft our incli- nation. The effeds of the cold are wonderful. Upon coming out of a warm room, it is abfolutely neceflary to breath through a hand- kerchief; and you find yourfelf immediately furrounded by an atmofphere, arlfing from breath, and the heat of the body, which inclofes you in a mift, and confifts of fmall nodules of hoar ice. Breathing caufes a noife like the tearing of coarfe paper, or the breaking of thin twigs, and the expired breath is immediately condenfed in the fine fubftance mentioned above. The northern lights are conftant and very brilliant ; they feem clofe to you, and you may fometimes hear them ihoot along ; they aflume an amazing diverfity of fhapcs ; and the Tungoofe fay, that they are fpirits at variance fighting in the air. I Our 5* ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITIOX Our fiililng cont'miiccl, but gradually dccreafed after tlic firfl: four days ; and with the mouth of Noveui'j^^r the fifh nearly left us, reducing us again to bread and water. At times, indeed, a few were caught till the middle of December, We had now and then fupplies of flour arriving, and by the end of the year the quantity received amounted to 20^2 poods j but, not having ovens enough to bake bread for all hands, the ge- nerality of them ufed to boll the flour, and eat it with fifl\-oil. U ! II Toward the end of the year the feurvy made its appearance, though not in a dangerous degree, and affeding but a very fmall number. The cold increafed to 43", which froze our Aftracan brandy. IJy Chriflimas, we liad the keel laid of a veflel of 50 feet, and refolved upon building another of 36 feet, with boats. The leather bags whic!\ contained our flour were appropriated to the purpofe of making a baidar ; there now exilling no probabi- lity cf Siberakoff's delivering hides for that purpofe. Our working hands were increafed by 16 CofTacs from Neizflini Kovlma, fent by the commander of that place, making the num- ber 94, exclufive of oflTicers. The poor horfes employed in drag- ging timber from the woods exhibited fuch a pidture of mifery as perhaps never before exlfted ; they were fed with brufli-wood and the tops of willows, having neither grafs nor hay. They feldom worked longer than a fortnight, then tired and died. Our only happinefs was derived from general harmony among curfelves, and a refolution to overcome every diflSeulty, to fecure the means of leaving this worft of all places in the world, as foon as the ice of the rivers fliould break up, and afford us a paffage. Animated TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, 6^c. 59 Animated by this fpirit, notwithftanding the feverity of the wea- ther, every thing went on with amazing fuccefs. Ourjoy wa« increafed, by obtaining for the Chriftmas holidays a fupply of meat from fome Yakut chiefs who vilited us ; and it was doubled toward the clofc of the year by a profpeil of better times. A man who rolls in affluence, and knows neither cares nor forrows, can hardly feel for thofe of others, and is of all people in the world the leafl qualified for pious deeds. Let him but vifit thefe regions of want and mifery ; his riches will prove an eyc^ fore, and he will be taught the pleafure and advantage of prayer. Let the advocates for the rights of man come here to enjoy them ; for this is the land of liberty and equality ! Nor will the Directory of the Great Nation, with all their great generals, ever poflefs it in perfedlon until they have reduced their country to the inde- pendent ft.ite of this part of the globe ; where a man fees and feels that he is a man merely, and that he can no longer exift than while he can himfelf procure the means of fupport. IS )d Our diftrefs, and hopes of relief from the mercy of heaven, led us one and all to devotion on the firft day of January 1787 : and never was a faft-day in England more devoutly pafled in prayer for plenty ; for there never exifted there, nor ever will, I hope, fuch a fcarcity. The Yakut chief who had fiipplied us with horfes was this day rewarded for his attention and lofles, by the prefent of a filver medal, which was fattened about his neck with proper ceremony. We had the fun at this time three hours above the horizon, yet the cold by no means decrcafed ; now and then, however, we 1 2. made ^^ ■:] I i 60 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION made a trifling excurfion, and were charmed with the appearance of partridges and hares, which induced us to fend out our jagers for the benefit of the community j but they were not very fuc- ccfsful. On the 14th of January Captain Billings propofed a vlfit to the Yukagiri (wlio refide about 50 verfts from hence), to fee their manners and cuUoms, and procure a vocabulary of their language. He was accompanied by Dr. Merck, Mr. Robcck, our drawing- mafter, and myfclf j and we were conveyed on narti * drawn by dogs. k This method of travelling did not anfwer my expedation. We had 13 half-ftarved dogs to each fledge, which contained very little baggage ; and I kept pace with them, walking the greateft part of the way on fnow-fhoes. We were nine hours on the road ; but about midway we made a halt to eat fome raw frozen falmon, which I thought excellent, although it was the firft time that I had ever taken my fifh drcflied by a 3c>^ frofl: ; nor had I any other fauce than fait and hunger. We arrived pretty late in the evening, and put up at the hut of the chief; a man fo remarkably ftupid, that he could not tell us how many children he had till he called their names over, bending a finger to each ; and, after all, they were only five daughters and two fons. The whole number of inhabitants was 27 males and 23 females, including children. After having taken a refrefliment of tea, with bread and butter, eight of the young women of the village came to entertain us • Thefe are a kind of long fltdges, very narrow and low. with TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &e. €i with fongs and dances to a ftrange inharmonious monotony of found ; and their adlion was an unintercfting difjilay of their manner of hunting, fkinning, and dreffing the fkins of animals. The next mnrninp; we began to make our obfervations ; but found that all their old cudoms were abollfhed, and that the race was almoft extin£t. They call themfelvcs Andon Domni, and are ignorant who gave them the name of Yukagir. They are in tribes, and, befides this place of refidcncc, have villages near the eftuaries of the rivers Indigerka, Yana, and Alafey. Their cuf- toms were like thofe of the Tungoofe, with whom they live in great friendfhip, and fome of the tribes intermarry. The whole nation comprifes only about 300 males, as wars with the Tfliut- fki and Koriaks have fwept off great numbers, the fmall-pox ftill more ; and the venereal difeafe now feems engr.ifted among them, as if finally to eradicate the race. They refide at thefe habitations from the middle of December till the middle of February, while the weather is too fevere for the chafe ; alfo in June and July, being the fifhing feafon. They frequent the fources of the Ko- Tima and Yafafhnoi in quefl; of deer and wild hearts, which they float in rafts to their dwellings, or bring in narti with dogs. They fpeak Ruflian very well, which enabled me to take a good voca- bulary of their language. Their drefs is now the fame as the Ruffians of thefe parts : it was formerly like that of the Tungoofe, whofe tailors they ftill remain, embroidering the ornamental parts of their cloathing, for which they receive in return articles of drefs, flcins, or furs. The Yukagiri call the Tungoofe Erpeghi. On the 18th January we returned to our dwellings, and found every thing going on with alacrity. We fet our coopers to ftave- raaking, and began building boats and one baidar. 13 At 62 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPr.DITION I I .'■•I At the commencement of tlie month of l''cbruary, the weather during the clay hc^!;an to be more moderate. On the 4th, we fent a foldier to Soredni, or the Middle Kovima, to bake bread for the cnfiiing lummcr ; and a cooper to N(ji/ihni,to make eafl^s : we alfo fent Lobalhkoff, a Clollac Sotnik well aC(]'iiinted with thefe parts, to purchafe the meat of rein-deer of the inhabitants or wandering tribes about the Onujlon ; he was furnilhcd with fait to preferve it, and with money, tobacco, and trinkets, for ths purpofe of barter. Not having any agent at Irkutfk for the purpofe of difpatching the articles that ftiil remained to be forwarded to ( )chotik for the r'-pedition, it was thought nectifary to fend Captain-Lieutenant Bering to fuperiutcnd this bufinefs. He Kit this miferablc place on the 1 2th February, and took conimillions from every officer for private fuppiies of necelfaries, both of food and raiment. The fcurvy gained ground upon our people, affeding their joints, and eontrading them, particularly the legs. A decodlioa of the Pinus Cembra was ul'ed, and alfo fweetwart and quafs, and with fuccefs. In the month of March we had our veflcls in a great ftate of forwardnefs, and were warping planks for flieathing. The days were pleafant, but the night-froRs continued from 20'' to 32°. On the 1 2th day of the month the fnow-larks made their appearance, to my great joy, for they afforded me many a good dinner. On the ifl of April, Captain Billings pitched his aflronomlcal tent. On the 8th, a Yakut arrived, with 14 fmall cafks of but- ter, which had wintered on the road j but brought no news of any < ,'l TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, ice, 63 any more of SihcrakofT'vS contraiflcil articles. Wc were now nuking lulls ; and a rope-walk was at work by the 20th, Oil the 29th, fvvans were obfcrvcd flying to the nortli ; on the C-^d, gccll' ; oil the 2()th, ducks; and toward the end ot* the month wc obtained abundant fuppiics ; among which, we now and then obfcrvcd a linall-li/cd goolo quite white. The fcurvy entirely left us as loon as wc returned to the ule ot' folid food. The I ft of May, at four A. M. wc had 22" of froft ; and at eight A. M. 2y of heat in the fun. Our people were now employed in caulking and preparing rigging for both vedcLs, and mak- ing oars and fwceps for the boats. Some hands were fent to fl\oot birds, hares, (Sec. which were in great plenty, and not very fliy. All appearances w^ere now as favourable as they had lately been dil'couraging ; and pcrfc^^: health, good fpirlts, and fatlsfac- tion, appeared in every countenance ; when an accident, for the moment, threatened the worll of confequences. On the 14th, a little paft midnight, we were alarmed by a fire breaking out at the dwelling of our mechanic, only a few yards from the fpot where our veftcls lay on the ftocks, quite ready for launching ; and thefe were with the greateft difliculty fuved. All the brandy that had hitherto arrived for the ufe of the expedition, which confifted of 5 i ankers, and was depofited in a ftore-room adjoin- ing to the houfe, was confumcd. This accident was caufed by the careleflTnefs of the inhabitant, who had made a fire-place in the entry clofe to the wooden wall, where he drclfed his fupper, and left the fire burning. j On 64 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPF.DITION On the 15th, ihc ice of the river Yafafhnoi began to movc» and the following day it floated with the ftrcam. ■, ,-?i On the 17th, we launched the larger vcfliel, and called her The Piilbs, as a mark of the refped we bore to the very learned Dodor of that name, who was the chief taule of the expedition taking place; though the original fuggeflcr of it was the Reve- rend William Coxe, A. M V. R. S. author of " An Account of the Ruilian Difcovcries between Alia and America," and of many other valuable works, too well known to require mention in this place. The water of the river had rifen 1 2 feet perpendicular, and re- mained fo all the 1 8th, On the 19th, we launched the fecond veflel, which we named the Yafaflanoi, and the command of her was given to Captain-Lieutenant SaretfliefF. The perpendicular rife of the water on the 21ft was 22 feet, even with the borders of the river ; and the next day it overflowo(i the Oftrog, and compelled us to retreat to the tops of cur houfes, where we pitcheu our tents. The baidar and two boats were now finifhed, and, carrying all the materials in them from the ftore-houfes, we loaded our veflels. The Pallas was cutter-rigged, and the Yafafh- noi had three lugs and a fore-fail. The perpendicular rife of the water on the 24th was 27 feer. The face of the counry refembled an immenfe lake, and fome of the tree tops appeared j'.ift above the water. In the afternoon a.l hands went on ! oard. Mr. Main received the charge of fuch as were not required with 's, a*, i dlredions to return to Ochotlk with all convenient haflf, to alfift im conftructing the vefl'els there. Virchni TO THE EASTERN OCFAN, &c. 6$ Virchni Kovimflcoi Oftrog is (it ited on a bop:e;y fpot, Oftr- grown with willows and aider bufhes, botJ'^ri'ip on the riv«» Yafaflinoi, three vcrfts from its diHiargc into the Kuviina. Its latitude is 6^^ 28' 25" ; and longitude, by feveral fcts of lunar obfervations, 153" 24' 30" eaft ; variation of two compares 7' ^3' (• ;ft. The number of buildings Miat it contains I have al- roadir mentioned. The inhabitants are Coflacs, their wires, and attendants. m A Cofiac at Irkutflc is employed, by the governor \nd chief officers, in the mod contemptible drudgery, fuch as cle,i"'mg the ftable, fcowering the kitchen, making fires, &c. At Yu plcii'y in all the Itony nvuleti. Ycilli i ) Karas ; chiefly in lake*. ' Krafnaia ril>a ; fcarcc. k. Ntfiiakl ; a wlillc lilh fliaped like a trout ; vtry fcarcc. ZOieluznoi nopa. Ncrpiiki J flioiler and broader than the ftld. Mondiillika. Shlflnilc ; fomc of a nioft extraordinary fi/.c, I faw one caiif^ht in tiic lake Kyfla, near Zaflii- vcrflc, about 6 feet long, and weighing 108 lb. or 3 poods. The back, towards the head, was covered with a kind of niofs. 1 ate loinc of it, and found very little difference between the flnvour of it and the fmaller foit. Iruiigka, - - refembling in fi/.e and appearance a fprat or anchovy ; perhaps the fame kind of fifl» as is caught at Revel, and called Stromlingi. The mukfoon, omul, and feld, come in very great flioals in September, are very numerous for about lo or 15 days, and de- part fliortly after the river clofes. They do not afcend fo high as Virchni. Nelm, tfliir, or chir, and fieg, arc caught all the year as high up as Virchni ; and the greater part of fuch as are caught in the fpring and fumrner are fplit and dried, and the bcnes taken out, from which the inhabitants extract a great quan- tity of oil, as alfo from the fat about tlic guts. The fcld yields a great deal. What I have called the fturgeon is, in my own opinion, the ftirled. I do not know the dlfierence (nor did any one in our Expedition), but judge from the lize ; for 1 never faw one that weighed more than 40 lb., and the ordinary weight was from 5 to 10 lb. ; yet, owing to their extreme fatnefb and lirmnefs, I am inclined to think that the rivers of thcfe parts are favourable to them ; and the fturgeon that I have fccn in other parts 88 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION parts are three times as large, without being fo fat, firm, or well flavoured : all, exeept this one Ibrt, are caught as well in lakes as rivers, where they pal's in the iloods and thrive very well, par- ticularly the tfliir and ficg. The inhabitants filh with the feine in fummer ; and in winter they plant ofiers nearly acrofs the river, fo clofe as to preclude the fifli from paffing ; but leaving openings for wiers and nets. The Beads that infeft the neighbourhood are : Englilh Namei. Elk. Dtcr. RulTian Names. {Sochata. Lofs. Olcn. I. ■ ' Yakut Niinitfs. Time of the Chafe. > September, OAober, and November. Mi'niak. J Spring bows are fet, with a (Iring lending to the path which they take. In April, and the beginning of May, they are chafed on fnow-ftioes. At tliis fcafon, the fun in the day-time thaws the fnow, which the night froft hatders enough to fupport a man and dogs, though the animals always break through, and cannot extricate themfelves. Immeufc numbers of deer are flain in Augufl, on fwimming acrofs rivers in returning to the woods from the borders of the Icy Sea, whither they retreat in fpring to (helter themfelves from the flics and in- fers thut infell the forefts. Their mi- gration is very curious. They herd all together ; and I am told, that the males fcm the van and rear, while the females are inclofed in the :';;ntre: Bears and wolves follow them, deftroying fuch as draggle from the main body ; foxes lag behind and clear the remains. Thus do I account for the appearance of bears, wolves. I I ! TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, he. 89 wclvc3, and foxes, fp far beyond the fortlU. Eagles and otlicr birds of prey hover over ihe deer at tlie time of ilicir migralion, and give llic carliell intima- tion to the hunters of their near ap- proach. On tlieirtak-ug the rivers, the hnnters man their cunocs ; two men with fpcar3 in fume, whik others aie occupied by boys and women, furniflicd with long corda, which they throw over theliornj of tlie dabbed deer, and tic one end to (lakes or trees on fliore. I have not, however, been fortunate enough to fee them at this time— Price, elk ikin 2, doe Ikin, i ruble. Englllh Names. Ruffian Name*. Bear. Medved. White Bear. Bcloi Medved. Ghitton. Ryfomag. Wolf. Volk. Fox. Leefits. Stone Fox. PtfTcts. Ermine. Gornaflul Lynx. Rvs, Otter. Vuidra. Sable. Sobol. Sheep. ) Brnan. Argali. Hare. Marmot. Ditto. r/,aits. ■) iuihkan.j 'rarbagau. Stiilik. Yakut Names. t Ehea ; from May till late in September— Middling \ Eflc } Ikin, I ruble. - - - ; about the Icy Sea. Wc did not fee any — i ruble. f Siigan 1 ; all the winter ; not numerous— 2 to 10 I and Bego J rubles. Beich ; never fought after in thcfc parts— 2 to 8 rubles. Saiil J numerous, and much looked for in Oclober and November — According to quality, i to 5 rub. Kiu'a ; Oftober and all the winter— 50 copeaks. Belilak ; all the winter In woods near habitations, and frequently about the flour magazines— 5 copeaks. E-us ; autumn and all winter — 3 to 10 rubles, according to the length of hair. Itie ; funimer — 8 and 10 rubles. Kies ; ver^- feldom caught about the Kovima — 10 rub. Tfliubek ; about the mountains at the fource of tlic Kovima, and all over the Virchoyanfld chain to KamlHiatka — i ruble. Kobach ; all the winter ; but cliitfly wlien the firft, fnow fallj — 3 to J copeaks. Tarbagan, ") mueh elleeined by the Yakut for food and Kutier ; J dref*;. Tliey pafs the winter under N ground. h '. 1 Cngliih NuiiR'Si Riiiri.in N^lmc^. Squiii'cl. Di.lka. Fl lIlfT Sti I'pcil Jo. LtiniiiJuk. ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION ground, liave fcvcral diambers in tlifir holes, mill hiy in a lonliilirable Hock of grnfii niid fwect roots; ull'o tlic nut of tlic ctilar— 5 to \o copcakr.. Y.iUut N.imf«. 'rcc-iiig } Tpring anil aiitiinm — 3 to 5 copi'aks ; rfleem" t'J jfood c;iliii{; by llic dll'.iicnt tribes. Tirlk-amiat ; <;«« Sharp nofed. 7 j j-j Com, moufe. J Kyla. 1 'illh. Kutny !» neve never fought after— VTorth nothing. Xnglllli Karnes. Swan. Goofe. Duck, Eagle. Ditto. all blickl cad. Guh. V Owl. Gull. Small blick hca Crane. Slovk. Partridge. Raven. Crows. The Birds confift of the followhig khitls : Riiirian Names, Vakut Names. Lebed. K.ubah ; appear about the 20th April, and depart In September. Goofc. Kaas ; appears and goes a few days later. Utka. Kus ; are in great variety, and numerous. Orel. Baruldo; black. Ditto. Toyon ; white head and tail. S'kopa» Umfan ; of the eagle or hawk kind : darts In the wa- ter for fifli. YaRrip. Kirt. Kretchet. Ditto. Korflioon. Togolak.. Sokol. rilcn. Mokfoghol and Karali Chaika., Kopta. Marted-.ka. Tlraghl. Zilmrav. Stcrcli. Kuropatka. Voron. Varonna. Tnrnja. Kiitelik.^ Kabdnii. Sor. Tarak. /ivcrs. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 5» 151.ick G:- u'. Tclcie ]^i;u'k\v'>oil|)i.'c'kcrI)l!u)liiUi WooJjicckcri Datil. f^,:ill,.w. L.ilh.d.ka Tlinini. Dmfd, iSiiow-liiaitiiig. SiK'pIr. Siiij)C. Kulik. Cuckuo. Kii'.iillika Yakut Namcii IJl.RT. Kiij;il. 'I'oiiojjlian. Kniaiii^acliiik. Tatniigcr. Tulak. Siilliuraga. Knga. The eagle and Iiawk kind, I ;im informed by the Yakiiti, as alfo by the JifftrciU in- liabitants here, aie dormant in lioUjw trees during the winter, Lifl: of Trees, Buflics, and Bcnlcs. Larcli— Tliis is thecliitf treein lift, lor Inr'lding, fniiig, &.c, and the niod plentiful. It is inetty fi/.oablo as far as Virehiii, and the country is niuderately wooded about 200 verlh l.w -, hut the treis very Hunted : l)eyond that, they are in chillers on elevated fpots of ijioiind to ahout 30 veills from the ley Sea, wiieie tliey ceafe growing, in about ti>e latitude of (}>''' 30'. IMixh ; extends to a little below Sercdni ; but very (hinted and fmall tries. Poplar and Afp ; grow to a moderate fi/.e on the iflands flielttred by mountains, about the fourcc of the Kovima ; but do not extend fo low down as Virchni. Mountain A 111 i plenty as fur as Virclmoi, but very fearce lower down. Alder and Willow ; have a trunk about 18 inches in cireuinftrence, ar,d grow to the height of 2 fathom aliout Virchni. They gradually diminilli in li/.c, and ceafe grow- ing with the larch. Creeping cedar, brufluvoud, black and red currant, rofe and juniper, arc met with as low as Nei/lhni. Brufiiwood ai.d creeping willows extend to the Icy Sea, but never ex- ceed from 6 to 8 inches. The creeping cedar, or pinus cembra, produces a confider- able quantity of feeds or nutn in cones, like tlie common pine; but they ripen only the fecond year. Immenfe numbers are colleded by the inhabitants; fometime? a confidevable ([uantily are found in the hjulrrels' nells in hollow trees ; in fact, tliey are the iln'if food of fipu'rrels and mice. A very pellucid and fweet oil is extrafted from thele fetds. Berries. Mountain afli bevrien ; are gathered, and ufed to give a pleafant flavour to ihcir dunk. Black and red currants ; collided in alnuulanec, and prefcrved in caflo among ice ; fome N 3 are «).' ACCOUNT or AN Fxprni rioN ^' till' Imiliil .iiul |iirl> i\>l III .ittiiiit Sdciliii I lull lli( ntt cotl* lllMli' );ioU III)', III r.ll .1' N'li'llllil. Ci.iutii 1 1 < ' rill I.- ,11 1' li .III > , itiiil k \U till III I l.iilliri Mill ill ill. Ill .'it It'll III ; tilt V ill I' iilway^ I'll It I Mil \.\\\ , I^iiliiiKi 1 Villi iiiiiiMi Mil:. 1,1,1,1 J WIuhiIiIhh) 'I'luti .m- mi j jiKiiiy ,i, l.n ,im Nii.'lliin, illl I .III (Ml li I M il I.IW , ( Ii'IiiImii',1 ; .III- \ii\ iiiiMu iiiii'i 'I'll 'r l.iiii til tMij'Jii 11 lilt li tloiiv pLiii'i .I'l :iii' I'tCI lltiw . .1 III lilt' l|>iiii)',. Till \ .III \tiv |ilt'.il.ltll-l.iiltii ; III .1 il.llk lillli inliiiii, mill |>,i.<\\ tMi .1 liu\ Inilll i\. It'll) itKiiiliJiiij; il iii)itlc. Tlic) .lU' pit lt.i vitl I'. liuiU iiig. M.iitHlilv.l ; K iiImI'i I li.im.i iiiDMi : - I'lult' ,iii' tlii- {'.ivfiiillr In 1 1 \ nl' tin iiili.iliil.iiiln, ;iiul );io\v ill il. 1111)1 niiiH'v |i|.it'i'!«, |iitilii-iil.irlv iii'iiv liiLc:.. 'I'lin .lu' iu'ImiikiI ii i'fil.iiii tint: fill lilt' It'iliw I .Illl! ,111 .il»v;iV!i lH'i'li'ivi'tl (luv. Sick'li.i ; )',i''*» ill)', I'll til \ llinix |il.ii'i'H iiliiMil lilt' nil Ml III. I ill , till .1 t It t piiiji; rpirii i nf lu-nlli, w illl lliiMl 111 I illr It'.ivt s ; lliiN .ut'xi'iv liii.ill, M.uk, .kiitllKnu, .lu tiilli t'U il in i>i\'ilk .llniiul.llii'i', illlil pulVi'Vttl |i\ litiiliiij;, Kiu'. lliiiilli ; Rul)li:i Aiiiit'lis ; iiu- li .ii\'f, j;it)\vm;i; iilniut tlif rtii)t!i iil llu .iKlii' .iikI t'ui - laiit Imilii'.':. ' i Tlu' inli.il»ii.»nt!! of iliclo p.ii't;; prcp.irc tlieli- rtK)il in the follow- Itii; iiKiniur : Hcfulos l>oiHniv aiiil tVyiiip; fiili, ;\.s Is iKmk- In every conntrv, i"oii|\s .lie \\\.\i\c i>l iju.ili.^:, k.ir.i.^, .iiitl iHMi.Ii. The iijipcr part i)f (lie lie. Ill CM- }\riil!e ol" the nehii, lu'i',, .nul tlliir, .ire hoilecl, aiul (eiveil up eviKI as a whet, \\'a\\ l.iheii cnicMis, .iiit! ilio juiee c>f eranhLiiiv^ in'.U'.iil i^f \ lnei;av. 1 liey biMie luiilcJ liih, then beat thciu in a mortar io the eonlilleiiec ot palle, ni.ike il into tlic lenn (Ma p'.e, pu'.tin.; into if either ilic leFnI, the heads of fahuon, oi, wliieli is leekiMicd ht.ll, the Uver of t!jc (juah, and bake it, with or wlilunu o;\ions. The ri\;'xvn o[ fr.li beat up In a moitar, foinetnnes nilxcil with Hour, .r.iJ hit.\l with onlojis, is cille*.! baraban ; if fried like a cake TO '11 IF, r.A'^/n'UN OCF.AN, &c, 93 cake •aiiluiul onions, ;iiul palcivcd berries put on ihc top, ii is rallovl lluuu',ve. rile are II.'imikJ, aiul beat up - iw, with onions, vvilil tliynu', ;nul l^'i pii, in. nil. iii!o iDiee-ineat 'tils, and in'iiteil in (onp;. inid full pies ; ami ronicliiuei; made ini > e;i!ves, and liitd. Tliey arc ealled teliu-e. The ihiil; inif of lilh, particularly the cpial), is hoilcd, and lerveil n|) eold, with dillei'-nt berries, by way of del'ert alter dinner. Their ilrink is the fenncnteil juiee of l)crries mixed with water. They make vinegar, tn* rather a good ruhllitute ior it, by tcrin<.i\l- Ing (Miions with Hour, or the pounded inner bark of tlic larch ; .u\d 1 thought it very good. An infulion of wild thyme, of dog-rofo leaves and flall.y, and of the plant ealled tlhernoi guluvnik, is tiled iullead of Lea. M'ufks ol* tlie nil n:! mu afe lound very numcroully about t!ic r.nuly high ihores of tUe river, at a conrulorahk" ileptii ; and the Ipring Hoods wathing away the land difec^'cr them. I am ncjt at all furprifed at their being burieil lb ilce]> ; i\)r every I'pring the Hood leaves immenfe ([uantitics of fmd and eartit on the du;re'i of ihc rivers ; perhaps \n the depth of tv,'^ to t' iv e inche^, and among buihcs much more. They a:e eijual to ehphaut,' teeth in whitenefs and beauty, but very iHircrent in tluir dia})e, being all bent Ipirally, forming about (me round anil a half. T'hc lavtvcfl that we found, which was on tlie ihores of the Icy vSea, mealurcJ as f<'llows, French mcafurement : Len"-f.!i, 94 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION Lcno'tli, with the bend, Dillance from one end to the other, ftraight, Ch-cuinfcrencc near the root The thickell part 22 inches from the root OF the middle - - - Of the point - - - Weight 137^ lb. Ruifian weight, equal to 115 lb. weight avoir- dupois. l\xt. h xlicj. Li'iiei. 8 7 4 4 I n 14 :> 17 8 15 « 9 5 The outfule was very brown from its having been expofed to the weather ; and it was cracked through the coat, or upper ftratum, about an inch. The infide was quite fnm, and very- white. I I /» ■ ! I The horns of another animal are frequently found, adhering to a part of the fliull, and refemble very much thofc of the buffalo. The claftic part of thefe are much efteemcd by the Tungoofe, &c. for ftrengthening their bows. I am forry that ni) want of knowledge in natural hiftory, mi- neralogy, and botany, prevents my giving a better account of thefe almoft unknown parts. Had we been accompanied by any fkilful perfon, I fliould have made this fcicnce a chief part of my ftudy. Situated as I was, I obferved every circumftance as well as I could, and communicate my remarks in the beft manner I am able. I fliall now lay before my readers the rcfult of my inquiries among the inhabitants. Daniel I ! TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 95 Daniel Trctiakoff, a Coflac in the 90th year of his age, gave me the following intelligence : — " I came here in 1739 with a " comminary, who was fent to colled tribute ; and I was de- " taincd here as interpreter by Laptieff, who made an attempt to " crofs the Icy Sea, and returned late in the fame autumn. Virch- " ni was then inhabited by exiles, who were trading pedlars. " Yukagers were very nutnerous then ; and I believe they de- " rived the name from one of their warriors : tiiofe of the Omo- " Ion, were called Tfheitiere ; thofe of the Alafey, Onioki ; and " thofe of the Anadyr and Annui, Tfliuvantfi and Kudinfi. Wars " with the Tlhutflci and Koriaks, and fatal difeafes, have almoft " extirpated the race, I have heard of a numerous nation inha- " biting the Kovima, called Konghini, and think it was from " them that the river obtained the name of Kovima. Remains *' of many villages were feen on the borders of the river, and " numbers of flone hatchets, and (lone pointed arrows, have been ** found about their ruins» Hi I " There were but very few Yakuti when I firfl: came j and I " believe that none of them were here 70 years back. The pro- " vifions for fupplies to Kamtfhatka and Anadirfk ufed to be lint " from the Kovima, up the river Annui, and down the Anadir. " At that time traders frequently viHted us, and very fme fables " were caught in abundance, particularly about the Omolon. " On Pavlutfki's return from his firfl: attempt to fubdue the " Tfliutfki, the oftrog at Neizflini was full of women prlfoners. " Numbers were returned ; foine he attempted to fend to Ruilia, *' but every one of them died on the road." lie gave me the following account of ShalaurofF's expedition in 1762 ; " la. it: ! ; ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION *' la tlic beginning of the year, Ivan Bachof}', hU aUbciatc, an exiled naval ofliccr, died at Nei/Oinijand left Sludauroll' to exe- cute tlic cntcrprifc alone. About St. Elias's day he weighed anchor from his winter buildings at the eftuary of the Kovinia. His followers were exiles and runaway foldiers, not hired to receive pay, but volunteers, to receive a proportionate Iharc of tlie produce of the voyage, intended in quell of ivory and furs. Of fuch as could write and read he made ollkcrs, and the fubordinatcs were mutually agreed upon. " He had failed but a very little way before he encountered contrary winds, which detained h'un till llij loth of Augulh Much ice was in fight, but none near the vcllel. He now kept well in with the fliore, palled Barannoi Kamcn, and reached a point of land to the eaft, which may be feen in clear weather. Here the Ice inclofed them three days, and damaged the rudder, which, however, was foon repaired. This point of land is the fouthern cape of a deep bay, at the entrance of which is an illand of moderate fize. " The weather was very cold, and the crew wanted to feek for a wintering place. ShalaurofT, finding the fea moderately clear of Ice, endeavoured to perfuade them to go farther ; to which, however, tliey would not agree ; and on the 25th Auguft he llecred into the bay, round the northern extremity of the ifland, to feek a place wherein they might pafs the winter ; but as there was neither wood nor filh to be obtained, and his crew v/ould not lillen to liis perfuafions to continue their voyage, he v/as compelled, againll his inclination, to return to Nei/llini. Horc his companions dilpcrfed, but he hiinlelf went to Mofco. In 1 764 he undertook another voyage under the fandion of govcrn- n^ent ; but he never returned, nor was afterwards heard of." Dauerkin, TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. n Dauerkln, our Tfliutfki interpreter, aflured us, that Shalauroff'^ veflel was found drifting, near the mouth of the Kovima, in the autumn of the fame year that he put to fea ; and that his people were found frozen to death about 20 or 30 verfts eaft of Barannoi Kamen in a tent, with provifion, ammunition, and arms. I note this piece of information, although I think it very inconfiftent, and do not believe it. 1 c d In Affanafly KaflimofF, an inhabitant of Neizfhni, who formerly refided at Anadirfk, aflured me, that in the year 1766, or 67, the Tihutfki brought him feveral paintings of Ruffian faints ; that feme of them had cloth jackets, and that they were defirous to get gunpowder. They faid, that they had found thefe things on il.C' This was in the fpring of the year ; and he fuppofed that i: v^» the property of ShalaurofF and his people, of which they had been pillaged, and afterwards probably murdered, by the Tfliutfki. They faid that the articles were found to the north of the bay of Anadyr. I am inclined to think that Sha- laurofF doubled the capes, and was cut off in attempting to paf» the winter among the Tfhutfki. On the 23d September we obtained a few horfes, and on the 25th difpatched the firft party to Yakutfk with Mr. Bakofl". On the 28th, Mr. Saretfheff departed with the chief hands. Captain Billings and I followed on the Sth of Od:ober. We croflTed the Alafey mountains at the fource of the river of that name, and came into the fame road that I had taken from Zafhiverfk, at which place we arrived the 2 2d Odober, and remained there three days : we then proceeded, crofTed thf Virchoyanfki chaia at the fource of the Yana, and arrived at Yakutfk on the 13th November, after fuffering inconceivable harcifhips from the feve- O ritv it. 98 ACCOUNT OF AN E'^PEDITTON rlty of the cold, and travelling on horfeback. I computed the diftancc at 1300 vcrfts in the fummer feafon ; but have every reafon to believe, that it muft be 2000 or 2300 verfts, when tra- vellers are compelled to go v^und the bogs and lakes, and to feck fordubic places in the rivers : the Yakuti and Ruffians call it 2500 verfts. On the fouth lide of the Virchoyanlki mountains, the face of the country is lefs barren ; and, in addition to the trees before mentioned, ^re the tir and common pine inr abundance, and of large fize. CHAP. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 9f CHAP. vir. m Mcef with Mr. LecJyard^ who travels iv'itb the Command to Irkutjk, — He is arrcjlcd by an order from the Eniprefs^ andfcnt under a guard to Mofco. — 7 he Governor-General^ Jakobi^ called to St. Petetjhurg, "—The Co7nmand arrives at Takutjk. — Some particulars refpe£iing Lachoff^s Travels to the Icy Sea^ ijyo-;^, — Chvoinoff''s Journey thither in 1775. — The Command arrives at Ochot/k^ hut returnjt immediately to winter at Takutjk. J\r Yakutfk we found, to our great furprife, Mr. Ledyard, an old companion of Captain Billings, in Cook's voyage round the world ; lie then fcrvcd in the capacity of a corporal, but now called himfelf an American colonel, and wiflied to crofs over to the American Continent with our Expedition, for the purpofe of exploring it on foot. Captain-Lieutenant Bering, who had been fcnt the i:'th of February lad from the Kovima, to fuperintend the fo. .varding the ncceflarics for the Expedition to Ochc. \, was alfo here. He had forwarded many articles during the fummer, and fent fome of the anchors and heavy baggage to the river Mayo, to be tranf- portcd to Yudomfki Kreft by the water c^^mmunication. The guns, medicines, failors' clothing, &c. weighing upwards of 100 tons, ftill remained at Irkutfk, where they had lain ever fmce lad winter. ■ Captain Billings refolved to go himfelf to Irkutfk to fee thefe articles forwarded down the Ltna fo loon as the river fliould open in O 2 the k 100 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION the fprlng. Accordingly, ot\ the 291)1 December, he fct out with carriages on fledges, nvhich we hail made on pin pofe. Mr. Led- yard, Robcck, Lcman, his I'nii mate» and I, aoconipanicd him j the RiifTian focrctary and fe^ -il nccciFary hands were ordered to follow with all pofUblc (\)ccd We arrived the i6th January 1788, and I took up my abode xvith my I'ricnd Urigadier TroepoKki. The Captain began making preparation for tranfpOrtlng tljc guns, Sec. and fent to build vcllbla 011 the Lena at Katfhuga, where they were dcpolited. in the evening of the 24th Fei)ruary, vvliile I was playing at cards with the Brigadier and fome company of his, a feeretary belonging to one of the courts of juftiee came in, and told us, with great concern, that tlie Governor- General had received po- fitive orders from the Eraprefs, ianmediatcly to fend one of the Expedition, an Englinunan, under guard to the private inquiliticn at Mofco ; but that he did not know the name of the pcrfon, and that Captxin Billings was with a private party at the Governor- General's. Now, as Ledyard aiid I were the only Engliflhmea here, 1 could not help fmiling at the news, wIumi two hufllirscame into the room, and told me that the Commandant wilhcd to fee me immediately. The conllcvnation into which the vifitors were thrown is not to be defcriicd. I afl'urcd them that it mull be a mi (take, and went with the guards to the Commandant, Here I for .d Mr. Ledyard under arreil. He told me, that he had font for Captain Billings, but he would not come to him. He then began to explain his fituation, and fiid that he was takea up as a French fpy, whereas Captain Billings could prove the con- trary; TO THE F.ASTFRN OCKAN, Sec, r.iil 101 trary; hut he fiippofcd tli;»r he knew nothinj^ of tl»c matter, and rcqiicHcd tliat I would iiiforiu him. I did lo ; but the Captain afl'iired inc that it was an ahlolutc order iVoin liic I'lmjircfs, and he could not help him. lie, hi)wcvcr, fent him a few rubles, and gave him a peliflc ; and I proeurcd him hio linen (piitc wet from the wafli-tui). TiCdy nd took a friendly leave of me, delired his rcmcmhrancc to his friends, and with allonilhlng compolure kajicd into the kibitka, and drove off, with two guards, one on each fide. I wiflicd to travel with him a little way, but was not pei- mittcd. 1 therefore returned to my cou^pany, and explainer the matter to them ; hut, thou^!;h this eafed their minds with regard to my fate, it did not rellcrc their harmony, f.edyard's be- haviour, however, had been haughty, and not at all coudefccnd- ing, which certainly made him cri. es. I found a confiderablc alteration in this city ; it, indeed, flill continued the fame hofpitahlo and agreeable place for a vifj- tor, but the harmony of the inhabitants was not fo complete. Not to tire my readers with particulars, I fliall only aecpiaint them, that there now cxifled a difrercnce of opinion in the town, which led to the formation of two parties. However, at the lat- ter end of March, the Governor-General, Jakobi, a good and worthy man, who had been particularly kind to our Expedition, •was called to St. Peterfburg. The heads of one party accompanied him, and liarmony was again reftorcd. We remained here, enjoying excellent company and good liv- ing, with every rational entertainment, till the loth of May, when we took our departure for Katihuga, Thirteen tC2 ACCOUNT Ol.' AN rXIMDITION Thirtccii volllls wcm\* ticnrly ready lor trimlport'mp; our j^iins, jnciHcinos, i^lils, iailors' cldthiiiL!;, ami our own llincs ; and on the i.^tli, nine vellels hein^ co'^iplitcly loaded, 1 reeeived the i:harp;o ol ilieir conveyance to Yaknilk. J lie crews conli!U-d ol 50 exiles of J he word clals, and Ik loldiers. On the very lull d.iy, I was under the neeeilily of inllitlinj;; punifhinent on one «)l tluMU lor a tlu'lt, and iorhadc all perlbus l"i on» leaving tluir vcl- lel, appointing; at the lame time a loKlier to i',(' "" H''^''^' 1"' tlKiii every mornlni'; to make punhales of provilions lor ilie «lay, and «llovved each man a daily portion olhiaudy out ol my own pii- \ate Hock. ^Vhether this hail any elVeill upon them as an indul- j.\eni.c' or that my determined manner of proceediuji;, and ihc I'everity of the puuiihmeul tiiat I iullidled, more i)revailed, 1 can- uo{ tell ; hut 1 never law people more adive, attentive, aud obc- .dient, than they were all the rell ol" the way. ' t I arrived lately on the 4th of June at Yakutll;, and immediate- ly eroded over wiih all the vellcis to the oppolitc plains. Ou the (>th, 1 dil'iiaiched 150 horl'es, pri'tperly loaden, for Ochotllc, under the charge of lome loldiers. Moiles were kept in readincls hy Claptain Sarctllull "and Mr. ]!.ik(^n". The former gentleman took chaige oi tlie p,nns and all heavy materials, and conveyed them acrofs the co.iniiy alumt t^co vcrlls to the river iMavo, where he hail pwpaied velUs lor their conveyance aj^ainit the Uream of that river and liic Yudonia. On the uili, (Captain Billings arrived with the remainder of the articles, liie greater pait of which were Aill unpacked, particularly cloth, yarns, cs:c. By the i5thof July, every article was forwarded, and all our hands, except a few attendants, and our naturalill, Dr. Merck, who went 7 early TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 10 I Crttly ill the fpilnp; to the iiclghbourliooil of the Vihiye, or Vllui, to oM'crve aiul colledl the jirodudioiis of tliofc partr., from wliicli cxcurfion he did not rcliini till tlic hcj;im)iiiy ol Ati^iill. During!; my flay in Yakutlk, I tn;\dc it my particular bufmcfs to pet accpiaiiUnl with Laehoft" and liis companions, wiili a view of obtaining"; fome information concerning', Ills travels to the Icy Sea. Lacholl'was olu and inhrm, and recomn>eniL'd me, for any inteli'gcnce tliat I re(iuired, to one ol" his companions, /ailai I'ro- todiakonoir, now a burgher and Hiopkeepcr in this town. l^-otodiakonofl' accompanied liachofl' in 1770 fioin hii wintci* bniliiinj-^s at the elhiary of ilie Yana, in tiic monlli of March, to Svvatoi Nofs, the nortlicrn promontory of a bay which receives this river. They faw an immcnfc herd of deer going to the foutli, and obferved that their iiaces were from the noriii acrofs the Icy Sea. Laihcifl" •efolvcd, it po(Iti)le, to fmd out whence they "amc, and in the bej^irniing of April fet out very early in tlic morning, •with his nart drawn by dogs. Towards evening he arrived at an ifland, 70 vtrl . iVom the promontory, in a due north diredion, where he palled the night, and the next day proceeded farther, the traces ot the deer fcrving as a guide. About noon he arrived at a fec(>nd illand, 20 verlls dillant, and in the fame diredlion. The traces coming IliM farther fron\ the north, he continued his r(j''to. At a fmall didance from the fecond ifland, he found tlic ice i'o rugged and mount.iinous, as to prevent liis proceeding with dogs. lie obferved no land ; and tlicrefore, after palling tiie night on the ice, he returned, and with great dilHculty, for want of pro- •vilions for his dogs, regained Svvatoi Nofs. ITc rcpref'entcd his difcovcry 104 ACCOUNT OK AN F.XPF.DITION ililcovcry to the Chancery of Yakutik, and the intelligence \va» forwauloil to St. I'clerlbnrg. The iMnprds Catherine II. callcj the illanilH by the name of the dilcoverer, and K»tc hini the cx- clulive right of cclleding ivory and hnnting amnulH in thin place, and in any other that lie might tliereaftcr dilcovcr. In 177.^, he went with five workmen in a boat to the Ifland;;, and coniinncd acrols Ihaits, where he found the fea very fait, nnd a current fcttinr to the well. He foon faw land to the north, the weather being prc^'y clear, and arrived on what he called the third illand. The Ihore was covered with drift wood. The land was very mountainous, and feemingly of great extent; but no wood wavS fccn growing, nor did he oblcrvc the traces of any Innnan being. He found fome tuiks of the mammont, faw the tracks of animals, anil returiuil (withoui making any other dif- covcry) to the full Uland, where Lachoir built a hut of the drift wood, and pail'cd the winter. One of his companions left a kettle and a palma on the third lll.uid. 'I his was reckoned a ditcovcry of fome importance, and the laiui-furvcyor Chvoinofl' received orders from the Chancery of Yakutfl; to accompany LachoiV to this farihell l.vnil, and take an cxa*lt furvcy of the fame. In 1775, on the (jth February, he left Yakiulk, arrived on the 26th March at Ull Yanik Zcmovia, or winter huts, at the ellutiry of the Yaua. He immediately pro- ceeded acrofs the bay to Swatoi Nofs, which is 400 vcrils from the difcharge of the river, in a dircdioa north north-eaft. On the 6th Mav he arrived at the full ifland, which is 150 vcrfts long, and 80 vcrfls broad, on the widcll part, and 20 vcrils on the narrowcrt. In the middle is a lake of confiderable extent, but very ihallow, and the borders of which arc ftcep. The whole ifland, except TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. !05 except tlirec or four inconficlcrahlc rocky mountains, is compofcd of ice and fund ; and, as the fliorcs fall, from the heat of the fun's thawlnj; thcin, tlie tufks and hones of the niammont arc found in c;reat al)undaiicc. To ule (IhvoinolV's own cxpreflion, the ifland is fornied of the hones f)f tliis extraordinary animal, mixed with the horns and heads of the huflaio, or fomething like it, and fomc horns of the rhinoceros ; now and then, hut very rarely, they hnd a thin hone, very ftraight, of confiderablc length, and formed like a ferew. The fecond ifland is 20 vcrfts didant from this ; low, and witli- out drift wood ; 50 verfls in length, and from 20 to 30 verfts broad. Here alfo the tufks and other hones are found ; and great numbers of the ardic foxes are (o be met with on both. The furfacc is a bed of mofs of confiderablc thicknefs, producing a few low phmts and flowers, fuch as grow about the borders of the Icy Sea. This mols may be dripped ofl'as you would take a carpet from a floor, and the earth underneath appears like clear ice, and never thaws : thcfe fpots are called KaltufiE. The (Iraights to the third ifland arc 100 verrts acrofs. He travelled along the fliore ; and on the 2ifl: May difcovered a very confiderable river, near which he found the kettle, palma, and fomc cut wood, in the fame place and fituation as they had been left by Lachoft''s companions three years before Chvoinoft''s ar- rival. This river he called Tzarevaia Reka, in confequcncc of having difcovered it on the 2ifl of May. The Ihores were co- vered with drift wood, all of it extremely fliattercd. Afcending to the top of a very lofty mountain, he faw a mountainous land as far as his eye could trace in clear weather, extending eafl, wcfl:, and north. Continuing his route along the coaft 100 verfts, he P obfcrvcd PI. 'h I (I ACC(nr\ r of an rxiM'piTioN ril>' iTwncil, ;uul aliotimlr*! in Mil ; and licrc the ncik, a (pci ic« I'l l.iIimMi rut|iu iiiiii!' Oi'lmifl; .iiul K.imflli \tl>;.\, was in alxitul- aiiio, tlu'iii'li lUM I'liiul ill llir Kmima or liuli[\iika. On this l.lMiI lit' palVnl the luitiiiui-, ami iiitiincd in llw aiitnnin to Swa- ti'i N»'l% 1 alkfil, wlu'dicr 111- oMiivkI aiiv rcj-.ular iM) or How of the lido? He laiil, that *' lie tiiil not oMnvc any remarkable altera- tion." Wlutlur lie I eolkcled how the em rent let? " I Ic be- lieved to the well." Whether the water was I'alt ? '* Yes, and very bitter." I le lurlher oblirved, that there were whale« and l)elln^;a, white bear;;, wolves, and rcin-ileer. No ejowiii}!; wood was to be leen, and the inonntaitvs were bare Hone. None ot thclc travellers took any notice of tlie depth of the water, nor were they ac(iuaiiUed with the nature of tides. This was the total fnin of inteHlgenec that 1 was able to obtain eoneerning this laml ; and 1 am toKl; thai linee Cllivoinolf no traveller has paiil a vilil to it. Perhaps the three rivers oblerved arc only io many diiehargcs running iron\ one that is very ccMdi- tlei •abli On the iitli of Augull wc ar!;ait\ fet out from Yakut Ik for Oehotlk, aceompanied by the Captain of the dilhid, to examine into the (late ct' numerous artieles that had been featlered on the road, owing to the lofs o{ horfes. On the 23d wc crolleil the AVhlte River, without the leall dilfieulty, and arrived on the ,^, lit at Yudomiky Krell ; where wc found our guns and heavy bag- gage all fafcly arrived, and were informed that Mr. Saret(heft* had fet out for Ochollk four days before. I believe this to be the TO THE EASTFUN OCFAN, «ec. 107 the fnfl inOancc of I)ag^';.iRc of any kind having been tranfportci! ironx likutlk. to iliis i)lacc in one feafun by the water con- vcyanec. \Vc arrived at Ocliolfk the CtiU of Scpteinbcr, and found cv .ry thing goin^ on in the bell order with fpiiit and alacrity. Ob- ferving, however, th.it our (hips eould not be ready for foa before next July, (laptain H'iHin;vs refolvetl upon rctuiningto Y;ikut(k to pvfs the winter. Claptain SaretdiclVpropofed furveying tiic coafl of the fea of Ochotlk, as far as the Chinel'e fr( uicrs, ' ' an op' i)oat ; and daptain Hillings promiled to meet hinx in the cnfui .;,^ month of June at the difcharge of the Aldima, to whicli plat ; lie jnnpoled going by land and water, with Tungoofe \jU' les from Y.ikutfk. ^hltte^s being thus fettled, on the 12th September C.iptain IViHings, Mr. Uobcck, and I, again cxpofed ourfclves to the dangers and dillieultics of a journey on horfeback of 1200 verlls at To late a feafon of the year. We got into fevcre winter at Yudonifky Krell on Wednefday the 2olh September. The next morning we had 20^ below the freezing point of Reaumur, and the river was full of tl lifting ice ; notvvithflanding which, (laptain liiirrngs attempted to go by water to Ull Mayo ; but the fecond day wo were frozen nji, and oblige i '..' return on foot to the Krell. We obtained horfes, and proceeded on the 2)th Sep- tember ; but the fevcrity of the weather .md bad roads prevented our reaching Yakutik till the beginning of November 178b'. I now obferveil, that the oflicers of govcnunent at Yakutfk were fiuldenly became wealthy ; that Come, who with dillleulty pro- cured the common necellaries of liie on cnir ilill arrival in this town two years ago, were now- enahl' d to keep a carriage, with every thing fuitable to that llyle of living j and, upon the ftriileft 1' 2 inquiry. 168 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION inquiiy, I found, that thefe gentlemen were the volunteers who were fo adlive in procuring horfes for the ufe of the Expedition. During the winter, I employed myfeif in procuring the beft in- telligence that I could obtain, in addition to what I already knew, concerning the Yakuti j and the refult I (hall communicate in the following Chapter. i ' CHAP. i !■ • \ TO THE EASTERN OCEAN* &c. J09 CHAP. X. Account of the Tahiti^ colledied from perfonal inquiry and refcarch. 1 HE nation known among the Ruffians by the name of Yakuti call themfelvcs Socha, and fay that they came originally from the fouth. A nation of Mongals inhabit the diftri£t of Krafnoyarik, extending to China, who alfo call themfelves Socha, and fpeak the fame language as the Yakuti. Thefe relate the following ftory of their migration. .1 The Toyon (i. e. Chief) Omogai Bey, with all his tribe and cattle, . left the fertile plains fituated to the weft of the lake Bai- cal, or Baighal, to make way for a more powerful horde ; re- treating to the grafly meadows between Irkutfk and the river Lena, now known by the name of the Buratfki Step. Here he refided fome years, probably at continual ftrife with the Burati ; for he was compelled to fly from their fury, availing himfelf of the decreafmg moon, at which time the Burati never attack their enemies. Omogai crofTed the Lena, at a fpot between where Katfliuga and Vercholenflc now ftands. He kept clofe to the river, making refting-places where he found pafture for his cattle, until he arrived at the eftuary of the Olekma. In this neigh- bourVnod are meadows affording plenty of grafs, the rivers are abundantly ftored with fifli, and the woods replete with wild beafts. He might, indeed, have found places equally eligible be- fore he came lb far to the north j but thefe were the refort of the Tungoole, and he would have expoled himfelf to their depreda- I tions ; '!^ iro ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION tions ; for the Afuitic tribes, as well as thofe of America, were inveterate enemies to each other, and Ikirmifhes were the fiirc conleqiicnccs of meeting in their hunting parties : even now thefe frecjiiently happen. Wliile Omogai was in this fituation, two of his hunters fell in with a man of their own race, who was called Aley, or Kley, and had made his efcape from the Burati. They took liim to Omogai's who employed him as his labourer. His remarkable ftrength, flciil, and aQivity, foon recommended him to Omogais' particular notice, and he was entrufled with the ma- nagement of fome excurfions. The aftonifliing fuccefs that at- tended all his enterprifes, induced Omogai to make him overfeer of all his tribe and efledls, which latter wereconfiderably incrcafed by the prudence of Aley's management; and, in confequence of this increafe, the chief was obliged to extend his pofTcflions to the vicinity of the prefent town of Yakutfk and the oppolite plains. Omogai, who had a daughter by his wife then living, and a young woman whom he had adopted, was old, jealous, and drcadt-d the efteds of Aley's power. He oblcrvcd, that all his tribe efteemcd Aley to adoration ; for they I'uiipofed him to poHcfs fupcrnatural powers, and attributed his coutinifal gooil fortune and fuccefs to the immediate influence of fpirits. This made him uncafy ; and, with a view of fecuring his polfefTions and his name, he ofilred Aley his daughter in marriage. Aley now avowed himCelt a Sliaman, and aflimicd the powers of divi- nation. He told Omogni, that his daughter would never have clvildren, ; nd therefore he would not take her ; but demanded the young wrman that the chief had adopted, with v.'hom he fliould have a numerous family. The mother vidlently oppofed this union, but Oinogai at length confentcd. Aley's life was foon rendered very unpleafant by the perfecution of the mother and daughter j TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. Ill daughter ; but, having received very liberal prefents from Omogai at the time of obtaining the elderfliip of the tribe, and as rewards jor liis careful management not only of cattle and horfes, but alfo of men and women labourers, he was in pofllfTion of independent wealth ; and therefore retired, with Omogai's confent, two days' journey from his habitation, and cftablithed himfelf on the plains 18 verfls north-weft of the prefent town of Yakutlk, by the fiJe of a branch of the river Lena, now dry. Here he remained till the death of his benef'aui, when the greateft part of the tribe came over to him. ALy, who was now become extremely powerful, is reported to have hid 12 foiis and feveral daughters (Ghanghalas, or Chanhallas), tlie eldeft of whom was the founder of the Ghanghalafki tribe. The remaining hiftory of Omogai's wife and daughter I have not been able to learn ; but the tribe is nov^r known by the name of Batulinfk. It is faid to be about 300 years finco Omogai migrated hither. The Batulinflii tribe was afterwards increafed by a number of the Chorintfi Burats ; but the time of their union is unknown. I am inclined to think that their language was different; for if a Yakut be not immediately underftoodby his brethren, he exprefles his diflike to repeat the fenlence, by faying, " I fpoke not with the tongue of a Chorintfi." They know not whence they ob- taincvl the name of Yakut, but call themfelves Socha in the plural, and Sochalar in the lingular j I attribute the name to the founder of the town of Yakutfk, or to the name of the difcoverer of thefe people ; for Yakutoff is no uncommon name among the Cod'acs in the government of Irkutfk. ir; The firft intelligence that Ruflla obtained of thefe people was in 1620, when they were difcovcred by the Coffacs that inha- bited Its ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION bited the Mangazey. At that time they were divided into many tribes ; and the diflenfions that exifted among them contributed to their being fubdued. .*! I Millach is the firft chief reported to have gone over to the Ruf- fians. He had a fmall tribe, which fjparated from the Ghangha- lafki, under the charge of the chief Tygin. Millach inhabited a hill on the eaftern fhores of the Lena, 60 verfts below \akutfk, called Tlliebedal. He Aipplied the Ruffians with ibod, and gave them 40 archers to fubdue Tygin and his tribe, which was ac- compliflied on Tygin's falling in the field. Tribute was colledled in 1630, and in 1632 the firft oftrog was built among them on the mountain Tfhebedal, but afterwards removed to the place where the town now ftands. Millach's tribe is now known by the name of Namfki UIus, or Our Tribe, a name given to it by the Ruffians. Their number Is computed at Yakutfk to be 50,000 males ; but I am inclined to think that they are not fo numerous ; and my reafons are thefe : They fay themfelves, that in 1780 they were more numerous than they are now, much better circumflanced, and in an increafing ftate. At that time they had only one Commander and his Affiftant *'. Upon the Socha chiefs bring- ing their annual tribute, they always obferved the cuftom of fhew- ing their particular attachment, by making thefe gentlemen a • T am here induced to lemaik, that before the Emprefs Catherine IF. eflahlifhed go- vernments and courts of juilice throughout the empire (17S2), all thefe diftant towns and diftrid\s were governed by a voj-avod and his fccretarj-, and Coflacs were fent among the tributary tribes to enforce the imperial mandates. On the eflablifhment of the government, every town had its mayor and different courts of juftice allowed ; fo that there now exill many towns in thefe remote parts, where tlic inhabitaata confill of govtrnment people «nly. trifling TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. ".', trifling prefent of furs, horfes, and cattle, and fnpplylng their table with flefli, fifh, milk, and butter, and alfo with wild fowl. Confidering their inimenle podeflions, and the cheapnefs of all the articles, thefc prelcnts were never felt as of any confcquence by the individuals who made them. At prefent, hov>?ever, their (lock is confiderahly diminiflicd, not amounting to one tenth part of what it was. Inftcad of having only the voyavod and his fecrc- tary to deal with, they now know not hotv many commanders they hive to pay tlieir rclpcfHiS to. A commandant, a captain of the diftriiSt, r. dircdor of economy, judges of the different courts of juftice, with their fecrctarics and dependants, and other officers, are occafional travellers among them ; bcfide which, they com- plain of numherlefs cxadVions according to the arbitrary will of their fuperiors, only authorifed by their own prcfumption. ; "il go- land I tiie lent, exilt lople ng Thefe circumftances undoubtedly difcourage the a^tivi / of the Yakut, who no longer endeavours to procure wealth, bccaufe it is ilie IJkelieft means of making him the objedt of perfecution. Thus property, tranquillity, ana population decreafe. The princes or thi( ts dwelling ne.^r towns acquire their luxuries, and opprefs Ineir dependant tribes to procure wine and brandy in addition to their koumis : this was never known among them till the year 1785. I will farther add, that in 1784 the diftrid of Giganfk produced 4S34 tributary natives; but in 1789 their number amounted only to 1038. IMr. Bonnar, the captain of the diftrid of Zafliiverfk, told me, that the tributary nations In his circle amounted to only half the number that they were five years ago and that thefe were very poor indeed. To my certain knowledge, upwards of 1500 Yakuti are hired as labourers by the inhabitants of the town of Yakutfk ; their wives dwell with the tribes, and do not fee their h';fbands for years. However, I have fome other Q^ reafons, 114 ACCOUNT OF AN EXITOITION rcafons, which will he mentioned hci carter, to account for tlie tlccrcafc in the population ol'tL.'s nation. Of the Cni\ liuts about tlic river Newya, near Olekma, and all alontr tlie river Lena to itvS eftuary, tlie inlud)itants iire in indurcnt clrcumdauccs ; as are alfo thofe of the Ochot, Amioon, Momo, Indigirka, Alaley, Kovima, aiid Jana, who illed fucli plains as afiord food lor th'ir cattle; while the mountains are the places of refort of th«- Tungoofe. Tlie Yalmti that : diabit the Vilui, Aldan, Ud, aud ^.U the intervening plains, arc immenfely rich iu cattle. There is perhaps no nation \i tlic world that can exhibit a [greater variety rvlth rc;rard to llze. The ailluent, whofe dwell- ings arc fituated about the jucadows on the fouth fide of the Virclicvaniki chain, are from five feet ten inches to fix feet four inches hlvl[h the courfe of the fun. The ([uantity that they drink is incredible. Tournaments now bc'^in, wreiUing, running, leajniig, (Sec. ; and If any one carry olf the prize in all the achievements, he is ellccmed as par- ticularly favoured by the deities, and receives more relpccl; .nJ credit TO rriF. lASTF.RN OCEAN, &c. ng crcilit 111 Ills tt llimony than falls to the lot of a common man. When tl.c cfivmony is fmilhcd, they mount their horfcs, fdr'nitipj Ji:ill' (Irilcs, tlrink a palling (h'anght, and, wliccl'np round v/ith the fun's courfc, ride home. Women attend, and form parties among themfelves at fonie dUlanec fron\ the men, where they diink, dance, (kc. MAGICIANS, OR SHAMANS. Men and women are hoth admitted to this order ; hut very few of tlic hitter, as particular circumrtanccs attcncUng their hirth or infancy can ah)nc authorife their inauguration. Young men are indrudcd i)y an old profefTor, who accompanies them by day and night to the moll folitary parts of the woods ; flicws thcin the fa- vourite fj)Ots of the fpirits of the air, and of the pit ; and teaches them to cite their appearance, and claim their influence. I have heard moft wonderful relations of their power, even from the Ruffians ; but, notvvithllanding I have feen their enchantments or incanta- tions many times, I never could difcovcr any of their feats equal to that of a common conjurer in England. The following is an account of their performance : When a fick Socha fends for a fliaman to appcaff. the wrath of the evil fpirits 'ihat torment him, the forccrcr takcK a lw.,tch, ties a few hairs from the mane of a horfc to tlie end cS li, walks and jumps about the fick pcrfon, waves his fwitch, and conjures tiic demons to appear and relate the caufc of their tormenting him, and how they are to be appeafed. After fome time has paded in this invocation, he ftarts, pre- tends to fee the fpirits, and, liflcning to their admonition fur fome time, 120 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION li r time, turns to the p.uicnt, and tells Iiiin whence tlie fpiilts came ; that it was with a view of deftroyiiig him, but that ihcy might be induced to accept as a facrifice, inflead of liim, a fat marc or a cow, mentioning the particular colour. This is immediately procured ; for whoever has one anfvvering the defcription readily gives it. The offering being procured, the (haman droHcs hiinfeirin fidl form, walks with his fwitch to the pollened, embraces him, and commands the demons to leave him ; then, riling in great agita- tion, he fuddenly fprings upon the offering, raving and (liouting as much as he poUlbly can : the heart now ftarting, and being reftlefs, is a proof of the pain that it endures from the demon. The following morning the facrifice is led to the place ap- pointed, which is always on a riling ground at the entrance into a wood. Four poles arc driven into the ground, on which they erecl a ftage covered with twigs, whereon the offering is flain and fkinned. The flelh is drelFcd and eaten on the fpot ; the bones colledod, wrapped up in the twigs that were on the fcaffold, put infide the fkin of the animal, and ftuck at the top of fome tree on the fpot : if the facrifice was to the aiirial fpirits, the head is direded upwards ; if to the fpirits of the pit, tlie hrad is look- ing downwards. The forccrer then, arrayed in his magic robes, takes his tambour, and begins his formal fpells ; beating' his tam- bour, raving, jumping, and ufing an unintelligible jari;on in the moft extravagant manner ; his long hair hanging over iiis face, he conjures the fpirit of the facrifice to its demons, and the de- mons to their proper place of retirement ; fecms, fevera! times dur- ing his incantations, to faint, during which paroxyfms he receives the infpired power of prognofticating the fate of the difeafed, and the day either of his reftoration to health, or of liis death. If he TO THF LASTl RN OCEAN, &o. 121 he prove miftakcn, it Is not rcgarJcil as arilinf!; tVoiii want of Ikill, but the unacccptablcncfs of the facrilicc, which is occalionally lo- ncwcd till he dies or recovers. If a lliaman acquaints any family that Ibine demon is Intent on infllding a punilJuncnt, ofTtrini^s arc made to avcit the evil ; not of live hearts, hut the rich fkins of animals, which arc hun^ Jip in a confpieuous part of the hut, and hurled with the owner when he dies. The magician's drcfs is a leather jacket, with fleeves from the fl-ioulder to the elhow ; alonj^ the outer Team, long ilips of leather arc fewn, as alfo round the bottom, hanging to the ground. The jacket ii. covered with iron plates, and pieces of iron and hraf't hanging, which makes a difmal noifc while he is leaping about and beating his tambour. He has alio a piece of Icathd , like a long apron, reaching from his chin to his knees, tied before, and ornamented in the fame manner. His tambour is very large, and alfo ornamented in tlic edges and crol's bars with iron and brafs ; and his (tick is covered with the fkin of fome fliorthaired animal. He alfo wears, at the commencement of his incantations, a fur cap; but this he throws olTalmoft as foon as he begins his magic fpclls. If METHOD OF DIVIDING TIME. • The year they call gil, and divide it into four feafons, faas (ipring), foyin (fummer), kuifan (autumn), and kifun (winter). A month they call ooi ; of thefe they have 1 2 in the year, of 30 days, adding a fupplemental moon for the deficiency every fixth year. Their months are named as follow : R Befia 122 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION ■ ! Bella Budding moot" May Otti Hay ditto- June Ottcrfliachia Hay forks (lacking J-'iy Tierdinnai Fourth Au'^ufl: Belfinnai Fifth September Altldnai Sixth Oaober Settinnai Seventh November Olefin nai Eighth December Tochlinnai Ninth January Olhinnai Tenth February Koluntutor Stalhoii March Buffuftur Thawing April. They have no fpecific name for the fupplemental month every fixth year. They know the time of night by the fituation of the great bear and the polar ftar : the former they call araghas folus. Of the approaching feafons they judge by the following phe- nomenon. If the pleiades, which they call oorgel, appear before the moon when feven days old in the month of January, they expevH: fpriug to commence in the beginning of April ; if when nine days old, at the end of April j but if this happens on the tenth day, they exped a late fpring, and begin to be very laving of their fodder. They reckon diftance by time j and 30 or 40 vcrfts, according to the goodnefs of the roads, make a day's journey. PUNISHMENTS, CUSTOMS, SUPERSTITION, &CC. I have not traced any atrocious vices among the Yakuti or Suclia. Robberies are feldora committed ; fometimes, indeed, they TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. »&3 they lofe cattle ; but this I believe to be more the effe£t of their ftraying than th^ir being ftolen, as detection is almofi; certain j for they have an aftonifliing memory, and relate all their lofles at every public meeting, as weddings, &c. ; and if any one has in his travels leen fuch a beaft as is defcribed,lie relates where and when : thus they are traced, and the punifliment is, not only rcftoratlon to the party injured, but the thief is compelled to make good all the lolTes of the other Yakuti during the year, whether he has flolen the property or not. If an accufation be laid againU any by his companion, of having ftolen and eaten or lulled cattle, he muft either pay for the fame, receive a flogging (which is very dil- graceful), or take an oath of his innocence ; and, fliould an Innocent man be accufed, he will, in general, rather pay for them than take the ftipulated oath, which is adminiftered with the following ceremony : I 4 A magician places his tambour and drefs before the fire, the embers of which are burning. The accufed ftands before it, facing the fun, and fays : " May I lofe during my life all that " man holds dear and defirable, father, mother, wives, children, ** relations ; all my pofleffions and cattle ; the light of the fun, " and then my own life ; and may my fpirit fink to eternal mi- " fery (mung taar), if I be guilty of the charge laid againft me !" The magician throws butter on the hot embers ; the man ac- cufed muft then ftep over the tambour and drefs, advance to the fire, and fwallow fonie of the exhaling fmoke from the butter ; then, looking to the fun, fay, " If I have fvvorn falfc, deprive me " of thy light and heat." Some of the tribes clofe the ceremony by making the accufed bite the head of a bear ; becaufe they allow this beaft to have more than human wifdom, and fuppofe that fome bear will kill the aggreifor. R 2 They 124 ACCOUNT OF AN FXPEDITION Tiioy are very revengeful of infiilts ; nny, even entail revenge on tluir progeny : nor do they ever forget a benefit received ; for they not only mak:e reRituiion, but recommend to their offspring the ties of fricndlliip and gratitutle to tlicir bi-nefaifkors. They are very obedient to their chiefs and oghoniovs, and fhew their attachment by frequent vifits and prefcnts. They are extremely hofpitable and attentive to travellers, efpeeially to fuch as behave with a degree of good nature, and very inquilitive and intelli- gent ; for they afk queflions freely, and anfwer any vviiiioufcm- barralTment or hefitation. They are anxious to fecure friendlhip and a good name, and feem to ftudy the difpofitions of fuch as may be of fervice to them, to whom they are liberal in prefents, and even in flattery. They deliberate ii» council on all matters ot public concern, as the courfe to be taken by each in the chafe, &c. The oglioniors are furrounded by the refl:, and their advice is always taken. I have never fecn an old man contradidled or rppofed, but always as implicitly obeyed as a father of a family. A young man ever gives his opinion witli the gseateft refped and caution ; and even when aiked, he fubmits his ideas to the judgment of the old. The Yakut! arc a healthy and hardy race, bear the extremes of heat and cold to an aftonilhing degree, and travel in the feverefl: frofts on horfeback, frequently fuffering much from hui\gcr; tb?y are, however, fubjcd to rheumatic pains, boils, the itch, and fore cyts ; and great numbers were carried off in 1758 and 1774 by the finall-pox and meafles : the fliamans are their dodors. They are extremely fuperllitious, and almofl: every tribe has its objcd of veneration, but not of worfhip, as the eagle, the fwan, the ftallion, &c. Ravens, crows, and cuckoos, are ominous birds ; if thefe perch m r their huts, they dread forae misfortune, which is II TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. '^5 is only to be averted by fliooting the bird. Eagles and large birds of prey are, on the contrary, the foreboders of gootl. They always take care that the doors of their huts (hall face the eaft. The hrc-place is nearly in the middle ; tiie back of the chimney towards the door, and a free paflage quite round it. The fides of the hut are furniflicd with benches and fmall cabins, which ferve for deeping places. The bench extends about four feet into the hut, where the inhabitants fit. The men keep the fouth fide, and the women the north. Except the hoftefs, no woman may- give any thing to eat or drink to a male ftranger before the fire- place, but muft walk round the chimney to prcfent it. They never wafli any of their eating or drinking utenfils ; but, as foon as a difli is emptied, they clean it with the fore and middle finger ; for they think it a great fin to wafh away any part of their food, and apprehend that the confequence will be a fcarcitv. Their earthen velfels ihey keep extremely clean, becaufe they can make them fo by burning, in which cafe the fire accepts the remains that adhered to the fides. Before thc^ legin to eat any thing, they throw a fmall fpoonful into the fire as an offering of tlianks. The rich are efteemed to be under the protedion of the gods ; but the poor are rcjed.ed as forfi'kv^n, and only protefted by their relations, or obliged to hire themfelves out to work. Every Yakut bears two names, and is never called by the right, except in cafes of necelFity ; thus they think they evade the fearch of the evil fpirits bent on tormenting them. They never mention the dead, except allegorically, and leave the liut to ruins wherein any one has expired, thinking it the habitation of demons. Travelling m 126 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION i Travelling with Captain Billiugs to the river Mayo, I obfcrved the following offering in the hut of Surtuyea Birdugin, an un- ■chriftened prince or chief, to Sheffugai Toyon and his wife Akfyt, for the blefling of children, called Ogo Oyetto, the child's neft. It was a horfe-hair cord tied round the chimney, leading to the fleeping place of the hoft and hoflefs, ornamented with bunches of horfe '.:uir. Two round pieces of the bark of birch, to rcpre- fent fun aiv' moon, fufpended ; alfo the reprefentation of a ftal- lion and a 'unre I'ormed out of the bark, and a few wooden dolls dreffed. The cord was faftened to the poft at the head of their bed, where was placed a v/icker bafket with mofs and fur at the bottom ; and on a little table in the bafket was fet a very fmall wooden bowl, containing boiled flour ; all of which was placed by a fhaman with great magic ceremony. The prince has three wives, and was married 15 years without having had any chil- dren before this offering was made ; but afterwards each of his wives bore their fhare of children, and he has now fix fons and daughters. This account was related to Captain Billings and me in the pretence of Mr. Hornoffky, the captain of the diftricft oi Yakutflc, by the prince himfelf : each wife has her feparate dwelling fomc miles dillant from either of the others i and a fimi- lar offering is placed in each of their huts. At the time of parturition, the hufband is called, and two fkilful women in his prefence affift the delivery. If a fon be born, a fat mare is killed on the third day ; all the neighbours are invited to fupper ; the child is rubbed all over with far, and a name given to it, — the more infignificant the better, for an elegant name would entice the demons to be continually abow^ fit No ceremony is obferved if the child be a daughter. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &:c. 127 MARRIAGE CEREiMONY, ^^ -i The ceremony of buying a wife is extremely rormal and te- dious. A young man wlio wifhes lo marry fends his friend to alk the confcnt of the bride's fatlier, and what kalym fpurchafe) he demands ; that is, how many horfcs and caiile, as aha the quantity of raw meat, horfe flefh, and beef, that he requires for treats and feafts : this they call kurim ; half of the quantity is always given in prefents to the bridegroom by the bride's father, and is called yrdy. The daughter's inclinations are always con- fulted ; and, if (he does not objed, the kalym and kurim are fti- pulated. The bridegroom kills two fat mares, drefTes the heads whole, and the llelh in pieces, and goes with three or four friends to the father of the bride. On his arrival at the hut, one of his friends enurs and places one of the drefled horfes' heads before the fire, and reiurns to his companions without fpeaking a word. They then all enter the hut, and, a forcerer being placed oppofite the lire, the bridegroom i:aeels on one knee with his face towards it, into which butter is thrown ; he then lifts up his cap a little, and nods his head three times without bowing his body. The ibrcerer pronounces him die happy man, and prophefies a fucceflion of happy years, &c. Then the bridegroom rifes, bows to the father and mother, and takes his feat oppofite the bride's place, but keeps fileat. The meat is then brought in, and the father of the bride diftribntes it a-.nong his own friends, but kills a fat n.are to treat his new guefts. Supper being over, the bridegroom goes to bed ; the bride, who has not been prefcnt, is conduded into the hut and to his bed by fome old woman, and they fleep togctlier ; Ibmctimcs, however, the bride docs not appear at the fn-il vifir. In tlie mornin;^, the friends return home ; but ;4k: 128 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION but the bridegroom remains three or four days. A ihnc U lunv fixed for tlie payment of the kalym, either at the new or full moon. The kalym and kurirn are then carried, -without any ce- remony, and delivered in tlie prefencc of many friends, wlio ar<- foailcd, and the bridegroom remains again three or four days, and fixes a time to receive the bride at his own dwelling, which muft be new built on purpofe, and this alfo at the new or full moon. A'l Urr relations, male and female, with friends and neigh- bours, fometimes more than a hundred, accompany the bride with hrr fr'ther and mother, taking with them eight or ten fymirs full o:' -neltcd butter, and the drefled meat of three fiit mares. The. , o to the new hut prepared for them ; three men are lent to the bridt jom in his old hut, and the greateft drinkers are chofen for this purpofe. On entering, tlie firft fays, *' We are " come to fee your dwelling, and to fix polls before your door." They then kneel on one knee before the fire. An ayach * is filled ■with koumis, and handed by two men to the three kneeling, each of whom empties an ayach at three draughts. They then rife and go out, all the company filming them with one cheer. Three others enter ; the firft with nine fables, the fecond with nine foxes, and the third with 27 ermine ikins : thefe they hang on a peg in the chief corner of the hut, and retire. Then a number of wo- men condu(ft the bride, her fitce being covered with ermine fkins, to the hut ; the entrance has a wooden bar placed acrofs it, but of no ft:ength, which the bride br\iks with her breaft, and enters the hut. She is placed before the fire, holding h - hands open before her, into which feven pieces of fticks are put ; as alfo feveral pieces of butter, which Ihe throws into the fire. The fhaman pronounces a bleifing ; Ihe then rlfes, and is again con- An uriufhaped wooden vtflel with three leg', which contains irom two to four gallons. X duded, TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 129 eluded, with her face concealed all the while, to the new hut, where the cover is taken from her face. The bridegroom enters, and feafls his guefts two days ; then prefents all his relations with cattle, over and above the kalim ; which is, however, returned, on paying their formal vilits, perhaps a year or more afterwards. Polygamy is allowed, and fome have fix wives ; but the firft is refpeded by all the rcfl: ; they dwell in fcparate huts ; and in cafe of bad condu£l they arc returned home, and the grcatefl part of the kalim is given back. This, however, very feldom hap- pens : I have not been able to hear of a fuiglc inftancc. BURIALS. |o The corpfc is hrfl drcfled In the befl. apparel of the deceafed, and ftretched out ; the arms tied tight round the waill: ; then inclofed in a flrong box, with the knife, flint, fteel, and tinder ; alfo fome meat and butter, " that the dead may not hunger on the road to the dweUing of fouls." A fliaman prefides ; the wives and rela- tions accompany the proccihon to a certain diftance ; the favourite ridlng-horfe of the deceafed is faddleJ and accoutred, with hatchet, palma, kettle, ike. and led to the place of interraent, an is alfo a fat mare. Two holes are dug under fome tree ; then the liorfe is killed, and burled in one, while the corpfe is laid in the other. The mare is killed, dreflcd, and eaten by the guefts ; the fkin fufpcndcd on the tree, under which the body lies with the head to the weft. The fliaman takes his tambour, and invokes tlu' demons to let the fpirits of the departed reft in peace, and finifties the ceremony by filling up the grave. A fhaman is burled with the fame ceremony, and his tambour with him. If n\ elder brother die, his wives become the property of the vounq-er r ' 9 9 13© ACCOUNT OF AN EXPFDITION younger ; but If a younger brother die, his wives arc free ; yet they feltlom marry again, except they be very poor, Tlicir ilrcfs is much more complete than that of the Tiuigoofe ; and the more wealthy among them wear a cloth coat lined and trimmed with fur, with tight and well made pantaloons ; but their boots are ill (liapcn. The women drefs very like tl e Tungoofe, but are in general not fo clean or fprighlly. : I EMPLOYMENT. About the 2jth of June, at the conclufion of their holidays, they commence their fummer occupation by collcclli;^ a great fupply of the inner bark of the pine and birch, which they dry on racks in their huts : hay-making and filhing then occupy the time till berries are ripe, when they colled an immenfe quantity, and boll to preferve them. In the beginning of Odober they kill their winter ftock of cattle for food, and let it freeze, which pre- ferves it frefli and good ; of courfe they fave fo much hay. In Odober and November they catch filh under the ice. Toward the end of the latter month, they go out on the chafe : for wolves and foxes they place in their tracks poifoned baits of corrofive fublimate, which they call fullima, and alfo of nux vo- mica (Tihillebucha) ; befides having traps fet, fprlng bows, &c. They are very expert archers, and have a plentiful fupply of ar- rows in their quivers. The women make all their cloathlng, look after the cattle, milk the cows and mares, chop wc od, drcii) food, (Sec. 10 They TO TFll' EASTERN OCE.\N, ice. I3» They have no amufcments beyond fcalVmg, eating, and drink- ing. Sometimes, indeed, the women dance, which, however, is only forming a ring, and walking round with the fun's courfe. Their fongs are inharmonious, and ahnofl: all extempore on any object that ilrikcs the imagination. They drefs leather for ufe in the foUowiii;^ manner : For fymiks, they take a frelh fkinncd cow's or horfc'j hide, and fteep it ill water a few days, when the hair eafily rubs off. It is then hutig up till nearly dry, when they lay it in blood until foaked through, and then hang it in a fmoky place for a confiderable time : of this they make their buckets and foals of boots, &c. as the latter are completely water-proof, and the buckets, or fymirs, even retain oil. The legs of boots they make of colt's or calf's ikins, fcraped and rubbed till they be foft, then fewn, fteeped in blood, and dried in fmoke ; afterwards blackened ■with wood-coals and fat feveral times, and fmoked again ; they then are water-proof. Elk and deer (kins are drefled with and without the hair on, by being covered with a parte made of clay, and the undigerted food from the maw ; or with cow-dung hung up till nearly dry, then rubbed and fcraped till foft. They are then either kept of their natural colour, or dyed of a red colour with the bark of alder and alhes boiled together, or elfe of a yel- low colour with the roots of forrel. The thread with which they few their clothes is made of the iinews from the legs of the horfe, deer, or elk. ;it,. Notwithftanding the ftrideft enquiries, I could not obtain any intelligence of remarkable places, or fprings, of any kind, except the mountain where Commodore Bering obtained coals in his ex- pedition of 1725, and forged his anchors near the famous mount S 2 Tlliebedal, p li: .PI '3J ACCOUNT OF AN EXI'EDITION Tfliebcdal, from ^vllcncc they were t. mfported by water to Yiulonw fl'.y Krefl:, carried by lantl to Urak I'lotbilha, and down the Oorak, or Urak river, to the fea and port of Ochotfl;, The mountain is fituated on the Yakutflc plains 60 vcifts north of the town, on the confines of the Lena ; it is called by the Rul- fians Siirgut(koi Kamen. I paid a vifit to it in the beginning ol March 1789 ; and found it the extremity of the ridge that bounds the plains toward the river; it is perpendicular; about ^o fathom high ; formed chiefly of iron-ftonc, free-ftf .le, and ftrata of coals, lying horizontally, from one to about three and a half feet thick, and of inconfiderable length ; they then break olf, and the fame ftrata feem? continued fomctimes five or fix feet higher or lower. They referable petrified trees, the end towards the north being thicker tlian towards the fouth ; fome have Ihort branches Hiooting from them of about five or fix feet in length. About halfway up the mountain, there feems in one place to be a warm fpring ; for I obferved a vapour or faint ii/,.okc afcend from it, and the ground near it was wet. ii On my way thither, I pafled the night in one of the huts of a Yakut about 10 verrts from the mountain, and obferved there a fmall furnace with a pair of hand-bellows fixed, which were double, and gave a eonftant blaft when worked with both hands. I faw fome fpecimens of iron ore obtained in the ncii;hbourhood,exadt- ly refembling that of the Vilui in curious forms and Ihapes. This iron my holl worked into knives, palmas, hatchets, &c. without fufion, bringing it into a very foft ftate by heat, and beating it out. He ufed charcoal for this purpofc, nor did he know, till I fhowed him, that the coals, which he called black ftones, would burn ; and he was inclined to think me a forcerer for making them TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. ^33 them inflammable. This mountain, however, afTorded him grind- ftones. R turning homeward, I arrived late at a hut about 18 verfts from town, and retolvcd on pallliv; the night in it. The land- lord, an old Sochalar, entertained mc '• h an account of his own pedigree ; tracing himl'elf, in a di " from Aley ; and af- fured me that this was the neiglu >rl » .. which he retreated from Omogai j of vvliich retreat he gu c ^ac le foilowii^g account : Aley received numberlefs prefcnts from Omogai and his de- pendents during his clderfliip ; but was obliged to leave all thefe behind him, and was driven from Omogai with only two old mares, on which he and his wife rode ; all his poirefhons at the time were, the clothes on their backs, a bow and arrows, a hatchet, pal ma, and two knives, with lire materials. Aley thought this a convenient fpot ; and, halting the fccond day, built a temporary hut, colleded carefully the dung of his marcs, and, when the wind blow towards Omogai's habitations, mule fires of the dung, the fmcll of which allured the ftrayed cattle to his dwelling : he tb.en carefully fed and watered them, and drove them back. Aley now built himfelf a very large hut and ftorehoufes. Be- fore his hut be lluck up ports, with carved tops, for travellers to tie their horfes to, and made a number of hurdle coops and pens clofe to his dv^'cUing. The cattle eonfiantly returning, with frefli numbers of milch cows and mares, Aley collected immenfe quan- tities of butter, milk, and koumis ; and, having been very fuccefs- ful in the chai'c, he had a great fupply of the meat of the elk and deer, with game 01 all kinds. He now purpofely wandered to the IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A 4f, {./ :/, f/j fA 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■- Ilia t 1^ 12.5 2.0 U 11.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation # \ ^9) .V '^ o - ^ *'. \ S^N <> %^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4^y V MP, y4i

who refides about ten verfts up the Aldan. This is the chief or head of all the Tungoofe, who has anumber ofTakuti under his diredion. He has feveral wives of the Yakut and Tungoofe, i^ by both thofe nations much refpeded, and adts as an agent to the Mongal Tartars on the Chinefe frontiers, to the Yakuti, and the Tungoofe. He came to tis early in the morning of the id June, and told us, that the road which Captain Billings purpofed travelling would be attended with fome difficulty ; that the deputies, or elders, of the wan- dering tribes were not yet arrived ; that he would fend a letter to Captain Saretfheff, and anfwer for its being delivered in 20 days,, if he came near the coaft about the eftuaries of the Ulkan or Al- dama rivers. In confequence of this. Captain Billings difpatched a letter to Mr. Saretftieff, defiring that he would return immedi- ately to Ochotfk, and meet him there, as he hoped the (hips would be ready for fea. Boats were procured, and on the 4th June we fell down the ftream of the Aldan, 150 verfts to the Old Aldan ftage, where we arrived I: TO THE EASTERN OCEAN. &c. «39 arrived on the 7th, at fix o'clock in the evening, having for the lafl eight days had rainy and ftormy weajher. The ordered horfes were not yet arrived, nor v^ras the Coffac who was fent for them ; but we obtained twelve ftage horfes, with which we proceeded to Ochotfk on the 8th at noon, and arrived at the port oh the 21ft. Here we found the largeft fhip ready for launching, and the other nearly fo. All the articles arrived fafe, and all hands in good health and fpirits ; and toward the end of the month Mr. SaretfliefF returned, having received the letter fent him from Uft Mayo Priftan. Dr. Merck, our naturalift, was making a colle£lion of the cu- riofities about the Mariakan mountains ; but orders were dif> patched for his return, as we expected to get to fea about the middle of Augufl. Toward the middle of July, our largeft fhip was launched ; (he went oflf the ftocks extremely well ; but, owing to the flioals in the river, it was almoft three weeks before we could get her into deep water near the difcharge of the bay, where fhe took in a part of her cargo. She was then taken out to fea about five miles, over the fand banks, and brought to anchor in fix fathom water, with a bottom of fand and ftones. We employed the tranfport galliots to carry guns, ftores, &c. on board while in this fituation j for flie could not have pafled the fhallows even in proper ballaft. She was named, by order of the Emprefs, the Slava Roffie, Glory of Ruffia. On the 8th Auguft, the fecond fhip was launched, and called the Dobroia Namerenia, Good Intent. She was rigged, and ready T 2 tQ ll', i J 40 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION to go out caHy in September j it was, however, neceflary to wait for the Tpring tides to q^irry her over the grounds ; a galliot was loaden vvitlx her rtores and ammunition, and got ready to accom- pany her out. t; In tlie evening of the 7th of September, Captain Billings rc- folved on carrying the fiiip out the next morning ; Mr. Loftfoff, the pilot of tlie port, was ordered to take the charge, and get all the boats belonging to the port manned, and in readincfs, that, in cafe the wind fhould fail, they might tow her out j the boats of both fhips were alfo ordered to attend. Captain Hall, who had the command of this {hip, flept on board. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 8th, I went on board to get a book out of the cabin. Before I got up the fide of the fliip, the Captain aiked me whether I brought any orders to go out. I told him that I did not, and afked him if he thought it was poflible. The wind was favourable, but very fcant ; a heavy fwell from the fouth- weft right on fliore, and the fea breaking amazingly over the banks, and on the beach : this I thought indicated a fouth-weft breeze, befide which, it was very foggy. Captain Hall faid, he thought it impolfible, and certainly fliould not go out, unlefs the commander came on board himfelf, and infifted upon it. Mr. Koch, the acting commandant, who was on board the tranfport veflel clofe aftern, aflced Captain Hall, if he fhould follow him ? The anfwer was, " No, unlefs you mean to be caft afliore; but I fliall not go myfelf if I can help it." At half paft feven Cap- tain Billings came on board, and, after fome converfation with Mr. Hall, faid, " The pilot Ihall determine." The pilot arrived ; Mr. Hall reprefented his fears ; and added, that Mr. Loftfoft' was, perhaps, not aware of the difference between the fhip that he was then taking charge of, and a galliot of fixty tons. Captain Bil- lings .1 i I TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 141 ll- lings faid, he did not think the danger fo great as Captain Hall reprefented ; and urged the neccfiity of getting out this fpring- tide if poinble, owing to the late feufon, and his delire of puffing the winter on the north-weft coaft of America. The pilot affirmed that there was not any danger. C'lptaln Hull then told the crew to obey every order of Mr. LoftfufF, and refufcd 10 have any charge in carrying the fliip out, but profTcrcd every afiifl:ance in his power. At eight o'clock, l.igh water, juft as the tide was turning, tow- lines being given to fix barges and boats, fhe caft off; it was a perfect calm ; the fwcU very heavy ; and the fea breaking over the banks with great violence. The boats towed her through the paflage, keeping her head againft the fwell ; but when the firft boat (the largeft, which had, I believe, fixteen oars), got into the breakers, fhe Ihipped a heavy fea, and caft off her tow-line *. The fliip pitched exceedingly, and the IkifF along fide had her head cariied under water, being entangled with the fore-chains, and two men were wafhed out of her. Every boat now caft off her tow-line to fave the men, one of whom only they picked up. The fliip, driven at the mercy of the fwell, ftruck on the beach, and ftuck faft. At a quarter paft nine, a light breeze fprung up from the foutli-weft. Her marts were cut away, but to no purpofe ; for the ide was on the ebb, and flie was foon left dry. There was no time to be loft j the wreck was cleared away, and as much of the rigging and ftores carried on fhore as polfible. The refo- lution was immediately taken to fail in one fliip to Kamtfhatka, and there build a fmall veflfel, during the winter, of the materials of the loft fliip. Not having time to break her up, it was alfo refolved to burn her, as the qulckeft meth^^d of getting at her iron-work. This was put in execution on the 9th September. * This boat rowed on board the other ftiip over the bar at anchor, and returned vvit!i the flood tide : flie could not turn in the breakers. I The 'H, ; ■' r [L' I4t ACCOUNl' OF AN EXPEDITION The wind was this morning moderate from the fouth-weft ; but the furf beat with fuch violence againft the beach, that the fpiay nearly reached the church. It frclhencd in the afternoon, and d ed away about midnight. The lofs of tliis fliip had been foretold by \\\t fuperjlitious in- habitants of the town, from the following remarkable circum- Aance : In the fpring of the year, a flight of crows were fighting in the air, and making a dreadful noife. One of them was killed by the reft, and fell upon the deck of this Ibip. The whole fwarm immediately defcended, and entirely devoured the vanquirtied bird, leaving no other veftiges than the feathers behind. This very remarkable occurrence, which was related by all our oflScers, workmen, and inhabitants, happened while I was at Yakutfk. I have judged it necefliary to be particular in my account of this very unfortunate circumftance ; and fhall only add, that it appeared to me very fortunate that the fhip did not get into the breakers in the narrow channel ; in which cafe (he muft inevitably have been driven on the hank, and in all probability not a foul on board would have been faved. Captain Saretfheff was on board the Slava Roffie, at anchor five miles out at fea, without a boat. The morning of the loth would have been very favourable, ^ith a leading wind from the north till ii o'clock, when it veered to the fouth-weft. I was fent on board the Slava Roflle with ftores, an anchor and cable, in the long boat. Captain Saretflieff lamented his not having been on (hore, to have oppofed the i i TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, ice. Hi the carrying out the (hip under fuch iiiaufpiclous profpedls. He alfo exprefled great regret at the (hip's having been burnt ; but was happy to hear that no lives had been loft, except that of one man, who had neither wife, nor family, nor friends. The body of this man had been fcen floating at no great diftance from the fliip, which filled every one on board with melancholy fentl- ments. I returned in the evening with the tide. The next day Captain-Lieutenant Beting went on board, and in the evening Captain-Lieutenant Saretftieff returned^ September 14th. A courier arrived from St. Peterfburg, bring- ing intelligence of the war with Sweden, recommending the greateft economy in our proceedings, (as money was extremely fcarce in RuiTia) and ordering the expedition to return to St. Pe- terfburg if we had not failed from the port of Ochotfk, or if things were not in complete readinefs for fea ; for they experi- enced a great want of naval officers and men. Towards evening k blew frefh from the fouth-weft, and precluded all communica- tion between the parties on board and on. fhore^ .h. On the 15th, it blew a hard gale from the fouth-weft. We fe- veral times obferved from fiiore, that the fhip drove, and towaidft night that her top-mafts were ftruck. The gale continuing, we made fires along the beach, and obferved a lanthorn on one of the maft-heads. The 1 6th, the gale continued with unabated violence, and we faw with our glaffes that the fhip had three anchors a-head ; not- withftanding which, fhe frequently drove, and we expeded her every moment on fhore. She had very few hands on board and; n(r I' 144 ACCOUNT OF A\ F.XrEDITION no boat. The night was terrific, with very heavy rain. Wc again made fires all along the beach. On tiic 17th our an.- '•*y increafcd with the gale. We did not obferve her drive ; but frequently the thick weather hid her from our fight: towards evening, however, to our great joy, the gale abated. Very early in the morning of the i8th, we fent on board all neceflary hands, (lores, materials, &c. employing all the boats. We obferved that the Ihip had driven above a mile to the north-eaft into three and a lialf fathom water ; and had flie gone about forty fathom further, (he would have got on a ilioal. i' ' *l i On the morning of the 19th we had four inches of fnow on the ground. Captain Billings and all abfolutely neceflary hands embarked "^ ; and about noon we weighed anchor, with a mo- derate fouth-weft: breeze, (haping our courfe to the caft of the fouth. On the 2 2d we faw an iflanj bearing fouth-weft diftant about forty miles, with detached rocks round about it. We hove the lead, and found bottom with twelve fathom line only. This fmall ifland is not noted in any of the charts, and we gave it the name of Jonas's Ifland. On the 28th wc paflcd the remarkable mountain called Alaid, rifing out of the fea, and terminating in a cone. Some on board declared, that in clear weather they had fccn it at 350 verfls dirtance : its fitiiation, however, is about twenty miles from the fouth point of Kamtfliatka. The fame (lay wc pafled the Kurillan flraits between the fecond and third illand, and arrived at St. Peter and St. Paul the ift day of Odober. * Wl' wiTC compelled to leave fcvenil behind ir., with {lores, Sec. who were to follow us to Kamtfliatka, with tlie iranfpori vefTcl, in tlic fpriiig. Nothing TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, Sec. 145 Nothing intercfting, or worthy of notice, happened in this trip. We had very boillcrous weather, and a difagrecable Ihort fca un- til we came into the Northern Pacific Ocean, where we expe- rienced an amazing diflcrcnce in the climate, which was mild and plcalant. In Kanufhatka tlie weather was very agreeable. The kitchen gardens belonging to the ColFacs were full of cabbages and other vegetables, and the views around were more beautiful than any thing of the kind that I ever remember to have feen. The looks of all the inhabitants feemed to evince health, plenty, and content : and, in fliort, every thing was completely the con- trary of what we had ieen and telt on the river Kovima. We unloaded and unrigged our fhip, built barracks for our men, and ourfelves occupied the houfes of the inhabitants, three or four officers being rtowed in a fmall room ; but before the winter fet in we made additions to the buildings, lived very com- fortably without diftrefling the inhabitants, and in perfedl har- mony with them. Filh and wild fowl were in great abundance. Potatoes, carrots, turnips, and cabbages, plenty ; as well as feveral pleafant roots and greens which grew fpontaneous. Great variety of berries were found, and in fufficient quantities to yield fupplies of good drink. Ikfides which, we brewed fpruce-becr, and had a very plentiful (lock of tolerably good French brandy. I We were vifited by Verofliagin, the pried of Paratounka, and his family ; and 1 was very happy to meet with a number of the acquaintances of my countrymen in Captain Cook's Expeditior. Nothing in nature could be rnore pleafant than the glow of friendlhip which animated their countenances with the liveliefl: expreffion of fincere regard, when they mentioned the names of King, Bligh, Philips, Webber, and others j names that will be U handed il H^ ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION handed down to poftciity by tradition in a Kamtfliatka fong to their memory, with a chorus to the tune of God fave the King ; which is frequently fung in perfeiic liarmony, particularly by the family of Verofhagin at Paratounka, by the different branches of which it was made. They deeply lamented the fate of Captain Gierke, whofe tomb is now g'-aced with an engraving on a fheet of copper, containing a copy of the fuperfcription painted on the board, and fufpended on the tree under which he lies buried ; with this addition only, " Eredled by Peroufe 1787, commander of the Expedition from France." Near this place is a half-decayed wooden crofs, denoting the place of interment of the naturalift De Lifle de la Croyere, v^^ho died in Commodore Bering's Expe- dition. — [See the annexed Engraving.] We made frequent excurfions and vifits, and were well enter- tained with fongs, dances, &c. of which I purpofe giving an ac- count hereafter, with a defcription of the country, and the cuf- toms and manners of the people. ?r J m ,m ii|ii I' i,:-;'ii ^1 Fine weather continued till the i6th November, when we had fnow, and the appearance of winter fetting in ; the thermometer being 2, 3, and 4 degrees below the freezing point of Reaumur. It was now neceffary to difcover the moft eligible place for building a veflel to accompany the Slava Ruflie. The only wood produced about the bay of Avatfha is birch ; but In the river Kamtfhatka are confiderable woods of larch, fir, and common pine. Captain Billings refolved upon vifitlng the Kamtfliatka, in company with Captain Hall, and building in the Lower Town a cutter, as a confort to the fhip ;«( They \ \ > '^ X ' 'a5i,,,i,.iS«.,vvS.ii!iiKiHffiiili;S 'Hlliitate Ufii ( «» ■■ ':>0!>'*. \im : I TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. «47 They quitted the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, with Mr. Bakoff and Surgeon Robeck, on the 24th November ; leaving Captain SaretftiefF to fuperintend. Do6lor Merck, Mr. Vaconin (the draftfman), a bird ftuffer, and neceflary affiftance, fet out the 4th December on an excurfion, to defcribe the hot fprings, and colledl natural curiofities. About Chriftmas, Mr. ShmalefF, the commander of this diftridl, arrived, and increafed the harmony and good humour of our focie^vjj. Parties were fent to Bolfhoiretfk and Virchnoi, or the Upper Town, to prevent their quarters being heavy on the inhabitants ; and materials were forwarded by fmall quantities to the Lower Town for building the veflel j for which purpofe trees were felled. We pafled a pleafant and agreeable winter in different excur fions to Bolftioiretflc, &c. enjoying all the good things in Kamt- fhatka, and perfedt health. The froft was generally 5° to 8°. The fevered cold that we had did not exceed 1 8°, and lafted only a few hours. Snow was very deep. m U2 CHAP. 148 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION ft IN t flJ r, I '" CHAP. XII. Receive information from Peter/hurgh of an Enemy* s Ship {Swedijh) having beenfent into thefe Seas to annoy the Rufjian Fur-Trade.—^ Depart from Avatfka Bay, — Captain Billings caufes his Inflruc- tions to be read to the Officers^ and declares his intention ofjleering to the North-wejl Coafl of America, — Ifland of Amtfhitka. — Amli. — Oonalajloka ; Drcfs^ Manners, ^c. of the Natives, — Ty- ranny exercijcd over them by the Ruffian Hunters, JlLarly In the month of March 1790, we were all collected to- gether in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, on the receipt of difpatches from St. Peterfburg, confirming the Swedifh war, and informing us of a (hip called the Mercury, mounting 16 guns, under the command of a Mr. Coxe, having been fent into thefe feas by the Court of Sweden to annoy the Ruffian fur-trade j which it was to be our bufmefs to prevent. Towards the end of April the harbour was clear of ice ; hut the mountains were ftill covered with fnow, except fuch parts as were oppofed to the influence of the fun, where vegetation began. On the firft of May all hands embarked, and the fhip was hauled into the bay of Avatfha. The weather was clear and calm ; we obtained fome wild garlic (Tiheromtfha), and obferved the hawthorn and birch beginning to bud. We I TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 149 We had i6 brafs three-pounders mounted, and on the morn- ing of the 2d took our powder on board. We obferved high water at the head of the inner harbour at full and change of the moon, at four hours and forty-three minutes : the greateft rife fix feet. Calms and contrary winds detained us till the 9th May, at four A. M. ; when, a moderate breeze fpringing up from the north north- we ft, we ftowed away our boats, weighed anchor, and ftood out of the bay, fleering fouth fouth-eaft, and keeping ". middle courfe. At eight A.M. the light-houfe bore north-weft 15°, diftani two leagues; our latitude 52° 49' north, longitude ijS'^ 47' eaft from Greenwich. From hence we took our departure ; and at noon our latitude was 52° 46' 4", longitude 158° 54'. -At half-paft feven in the evening, Avatflia Volcano bore north- wett 33^, the light-houfe north-weft yS''; and we (hortly after loft fight of land. The weather was raw and cold; our ther- mometer indicated at midnight one degree above the freezing point ; «nd we had a moderate foutherly breeze, the fea running very high from the fouth-weft. On the icth we had a moderate breeze from the fouth- weft, with a rough fea and hazy weather ; our courfe fouth-eaft, which continued on the lith. At noon our obferved latitude was 51° 18' 6', longitude 161^ 58'. During the day we favv feveral fliglits of ducks, numberlefs gulls, auks, and fea-parrots ; a few gram- pufcs and feals ; and a plank very like the fticathing of a fliip. The afternoon was very hazy and cold. On the iztl wc 'lad * U3 light ^50 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION light airs from the fouth, and hazy weather. \Vc faw during the day wliales, feals, gulls, auks, &c. Our latitude, by account, 51^ 5', longitude 163^ 50'. In the morning of the 13th, Captain Billings had his inftruc- tions read to the officers ; and told ihcm, that his intention was to fteer for the iflands fouth of Alakfa, and to the north-weft coaft of America ; confidering the furveying of the chain of Aleutan iflands, fo inaccurately laid down on the charts, as too dangerous to be attempted with a fingle veflcl during the foggy feafon. \Vc had a frefli breeze from the fouth, and our courfe was eaft tiorth-eaft. We reckoned our latitude at noon 51** j', longitude 166° 30'. Towards evening, we had variable light airs, and foggy weather. Light winds from the eaft, and calms, continued during the 14th and 15th. The i6th, variable winds, and thick mifty weather. At noon faw ducks and fmall birds flying to the eaftward, and rock weeds floating ; latitude, by account, 50° 40', longitude 169° 5'. In the afternoon a gentle breeze fprung up from the fouth and fouth-weft ; our courfe eaft by north : wc faw feveral flights of land birds. i^-' The 17th, variable winds and rain. At noon, obferved the latitude 51° 11' 7", longitude, by account, 170° 25'. At four P. M. a frefh breeze fprung up from the north north- weft with flying clouds at 4^ 16' 15" apparent time; longi- tude, by time-keeper, 171° 18' eaft from Greenwich, latitude 51° 12' 4". The 18th, obferved the latitude at noon 50° 49' 23" ; faw great quantities of rock-weed floating, and num- bers of porpoifes and birds. At four 50° SS' P* M* apparent 5 time, TO THE EASTERN OCEAN. &c. time, 1( ide latitude of o 49 20 ; variation compafs 13° 10' eaft. The 19th, we had a freHi breeze north by weft ; our courfc north-eaft by eaft ; cloudy weather, with a hazy horizon. At noon, obl'trved the latituile 50"^ 44' : the afternoon fqually, with rain. According to Captain liillinrjs's cuilom, wc went under an eafy fail every night, or laid-to. The 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 50'' 27' 52 ', lon[;itud<;, by account, 175"-' 40'. This day and the 21ft we had variable light winds between the north and the eaft, with raw niilly v.-eathcr, 3"" above the freezing point, and a moderate fwell from the north-eaft. The 2 2d blew frefli from the eaft north-eaft ; kept a northern courfe all day ; mlfty and hazy weather ; night fqually, at timea fnow : and on the 23d the wind veered to north north-weft, blowing frefli ; the fea running very high ; fteered north-eaft. At noon, faw great quantities of rock-weed floating, and land- birds flying to the north. Got a fight of the fun, which gave the latitude 51° 6' 43', at 3^ 41' 15" apparent time, longitude, by time-keeper, 177^ 57' 45", latitude 51" 18'. At eight P.M. faw land north and north-eaft, on account of which, and ap- proaching night, clofe-reefed top-falls, and handed all fmall fails ; the wind veered to weft by fouth, we kept our fhlp's head fouth by weft till day-light on the 24th, when we again ftood to the north- eaft. At 3"^ 30' A. M. faw high land ; and, when we got well in with it, ranged along the fouth-fide. It was the ifland Amt- fhltka, the eaftern extremity of which bore at noon north 20^ eaft, diftant about 12 miles. It commences to the weft with a low point of land, gradually rifing into moderate mountains, trending fouth 49'^ eaft 25 miles j where it forms a head-land, from whence its diredion is north 64°, eaft 14 miles : to the eaft and weft are detached rocky ifles. The mountains were covered with fnow, and no wood to be feen : our latitude, by account, 4 was \-,i 'li M \ »52 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION HI I was 51^ 18, longitude 179" 25'. Scjually wcatlier, with a hard V!;ale from tl^c (buth-wcll ; the lea running very higli, and the liirf breaking violently on a reef of hidden rocks near the land ; our courfe eafl:. The 25th, wind more model ate ; thick hazy weather; frclh gales, varying from fouth-wcll to J'outh fouth-eafl; kept our courfe eall and call north-caft ; latitude, by account, at noon ^o^ 46 ; towards night flackened fail. The 26th, frefli taflorly wind, which veered to call, north-eaft, north, and north-well !)y welV, blowing hard with rain ; the fea running very high. At eight P. M. the gale, with fqualls, brought us under our courfv;, and we faw land in the haze; the weftern cape north, 14'' wefl:, dif- tance about four leagues : the eafl: extremity bore north. We fuppofed this to be the ifland of Adak ; but, fearful of entangling the riiip among iflands fo badly placed in our charts, it was thought proper to lay-to under mizen, main, and fore- fail, with the fliip's head to the weft ward, to wait day-light. The 27th, at four A. M., wore il\ip, and flood to the north-eaft by eaft under the above fails, wind continuing north-weft by weft. At noon, our latitude obfervcd was 51° 12' 57", correded longitude 184° ^5'; at three P. M. faw land, two mountains covered with fnow, north 44'' weft, diftant about ^6 miles. At 3^' 59' 50" P. M. apparent time, longitude, by time- keeper, 184" ^s' 3o"> latitude 91" 18' j2" ; at the fame time faw land, a high mountain north- weft 38"', diftant about 30 miles ; foon hid by the haze; and, on account of approaching night, flackened fail. The 28th, had a frefli gile at weft foutli-wcft ; our courfe north-eaft, the fea run- ning very high, and cloudy weather. At ten A. M. fiuv land, vv^hich we fuppofed to be the ifland of Amli ; and, to get a better fight of it, fliaped our courfe north. At noon, the weft cape of a bight bore north-weft 21°; eaft cape north-weft 15^ diftant eight miles ; latitude obfcrved 51° ^s' 23", longitude, by account, 187^ o 1 a in- TO THE FASTtRN OCEAN, &:c. 153 iiSy'' 36'. Tlic iflaiid of Ainli, from the weft point, trends 44 miles foulli, 88^ caft. At 4^ 10' 25" P. M. apparent lime, longi- tude, by liine-kccpei*. iSj^ 12', latitude ^i"* 55' y ', tlie variation ()f two compalles gave the mean 17' 7' eaft. The 29th, at noon, the latitude obferved was 52*^ 23' s^^y" ; corredcd longitude igo' 14'; frelh breezes from the fouth-wefl ; our courfe north-eaft. Till noon of tlie 30th, variable light airs; latitude obferved 5^^^ 34' 5", corre£led longitude 191° 2'. In the afternoon, little wind from the north-well, fteering north-eaft at 5 ' 24' 25 ' P. M, ap- parent time; longitude by time-keeper 191" 2', latitude ^z^ 37' 7". We faw land to the north all night, and ftooJ to the weft fouth-weft. At day-light of the 31ft relumed our courfe north-cart. At 8^ 23' 20" P. M. njiparcnt time, our longitude was 191'''' 40', latitude 52*^ 40' 5 '. Towards noon rainy weather. In the morning of the ift June, at 4"^ 30' we rofe the llland of Oonaladika in the north-eaft. At 8' 5' 45" A. M. our longitude was 192'' 41' 15", latitude 52"^ 51' 17", little wind at north north-weft, which died away to a calm. At four P. M. had a gentle breeze from the north north-weft again ; and at 6'^ 26' 25" A. M. the time-keeper gave the longitude 193"' 2' 15", latitude 52"" 59'. Ou the id variable light airs and calms. At noon our latitude obferved was 5;^'^ 3' 29", corrcded longitude 193° 47'. We were now well in with tlic land of Oonalalhka, which ap- peared every where high, formed of projecting promontories and inland high mountains. In the forenoon of the 3d June, num- bers of the natives came alongfide. We threw our main-rnp-fail to the maft, and took them on board. At noon v,c ©jf^rved the latitude S3^ 45' 4"' At four P. M. a Ruinan huul^r of Tiliire- panofi''s company came alongfide in a baidar rowed by eight Al- cutcs. He had been along Ihorc in fearch of drift wood for firing, X with ' il »54 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION !li with a. number of Alciitcs, fonic of whom brought U3 a good fup- ply of IlaUbut. They concUidlcd us into a bay which the Ruf- fians call Bobrovoi Ciuba, or tlic Bay of Otters, where we came to anchor at eight P. M. oppofite the habitations of the natives. We fent an officer to found, and hauled into the bay about 40 fathom from fhorc. Captain Billings landed with his aftronomical tent; Dr. Merck went out on an excurfion for curiofities ; and Captain Saretfheff, with afTiftants, was fent to furvey ; while I employed myfelf in getting the beft information that I could obtain of the inhabitants, who with the people of Oomnak, call themfelves Cowghalingen. This habitation they call Sidankin. It is on the fmall ifland Sithanak, feven miles from north-eaft to fouth-weft, which is feparated from Oonalafhka by ftraits of only a few fathora wide, and appears to be the fouth-weft extremity of the ifland. It confifts of barren mountains of a moderate height, compofed of hard ftone of a glafly nature, and generally of a greenifh hue : fome, however, is black. Behind the huts is a lake of fome extent (evidently fupplied by the melting fnow from the mountains), with a fmall outlet or run into the fea. Here we took a fupply of frefh water, which was not very good. About five families rcfide here. The natives of Alakfa and all the adjacent .iflands they call Kagataiakung*n, or eaftern people : the iflanders of Oone-agun (Tihettiere Sopofhnoi) they call Akohgun. The people are of middle fize ; of very dark brown and healthy complexion ; round face in general, fmall nofe, black eyes and hair, the latter very ftrong and wiry. They have fcanty beards, I but II \t\ ^ »! .l/,.ni/,, . ./,/. \r,i.,l. y.;lr / . If ON n Nil /I ''('//I mi ('/ / r//fioi.t//Ait . I'liNixlhil Miiiili ;•.'' //•>'?, /'(• t'liilill A- /),ii li.r, Xrni/i,/ , I'htr y TO THE EASTEKN OCEAN, &«. »55 but very thick hali" on tW uper Up. The uiulcr Up is, in general, perforated, au*l finall ornaments of bone or beads inl'crtcd ; as is alio the leptum ^f the uofe. Wonicii have the chui punQured in fine liiicfi rayed from the centre of the lip, and covering the whole of the chin. The arms iW chocks of fome arc alfo pvnie- tuvcd. TSey are very clc»u in ilieir pvikms , and the men very adlive iu their fmall haidai*. '^Thi: uurca arc chubby, rather pretty, and very kind. They forrncrly wore r« drcfsj 'i Tea- )tter ikins, but not fince the Ru'iVianb have bad any inteicuun with them. At prefent they wear what they can get ; tip ^ :n, a park of kotik, or urfine fcal, with the hair outward i Ins is made like a carter's frock, but without a flit on the bic " ani with a round upright collar, abt ut three inches high, road ery ftiiT, and ornamented with fmall beads fewn on in a very | stty manner. Slips of lea« ther are fewn to the fcams of this dri << i, u .d hang down about 20 inches long, ornamented wi h the bill " the fea-parrot, and beads. A flip of leather three or four inches oad hangs down before from the top of the collar, covered ta^ ifuUy with different co- loured glafs-beads, and taflels at the enu a fmiilar flip hangs clown the back Bracelets of black fcal-flcia are worn round their wrifts about \\ \i an inch broad, and fimilar ones round their ankles, for they go barefooted ; and this is all their drefs. Their ornaments are rings on the fingers, ear-rings, beads and bones fufpended from .he feptum of tlie nofe, and bones in the per- forated holes in the under lip. Their cheeks, chin, and arms, are punftured in a very neat manner. When they go a-\valking on the rocky beach, they wear an aukward kind of boot, made of the throat of the Ica-Ilon, foled with thick fcal-flcin, which they line witli dry grafs. The men wear a park of birds' flcin, fome- X 2 times Ji II.. 15^ ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITIOl^ times the feathers outward, and fometlmes inward. The fkin fide is dyed red, and ornamented with flips of leather hanging down a confiderable length ; the feanis covered with thin flips of flcin, very elegantly embroidered with white deer's hair, goat's hair, and the finews of fea animals, dyed of different colours. They alfo wear tight pantaloons of white leather, and boots as dcfcribed to be worn by the women at times : the men wear the in when they go on foot ; but in their baidars or their huts they are without eiiher pantaloons or boots. The men have their hair cut fhort ; the women wear theirs fliort before, combed over the forehead, and tied in a club on the top of the back part of the head. Ire wet weather, or when out at fea, they wear a camley j which is a drefs made in the fliape of the other, but formed of the inteftinea of fea animals ; the bladder of the halibut, or the Ikin off the tongue of a whale. It has a hood to cover the head, and ties clofe round the neek and wrifls ; fo that no water can penetrate : it is nearly tranfparent, and looks pretty. The men wear a- wooden bonnet, ornamented with the whifkers of the fea-lion, and with beads, which make very pretty nodding plumes ; and this ferves to faften the hood of their camley to the head. The women's park is called tfhoktakuk, the men's iafh j the boots-, ooleegich. Both men and women are very fond of amber for ornaments, as alfo of a thin flielly fubflance formed by worms in wood, about two inches long, thin, tapering, and hollow. a-- ' 11 Their inflruments and utenfils arc all made with amazing- beauty, and the exadeft fymmetry j the needles with which they few their clothes and embroider are made of the wing-bone of the gull, with a very nice cut round the thicker end, inflead of an eye, to which they tie the thread fo fkilfully, that it follows the needle without any obftrudtion. Thread they make of the finews TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. U7 fin«ws of the feal, and of all fizes, from the finenefs of a hair to the ftrength of a moderate cord, both tvvifted and plaited ; the plaited cords of their darts, to which they tie the gut of the feal blown out to ferve as a float, are very beautifully ornamented with red downy feathers, and goat's hair ; as are alfo the different firings with which they faften the wrifts and other parts of their cloath- ing, 8<.c, Their darts are adapted with the greateft judgment to the dif- ferent obje£ls of the chafe ; for animals, a fingle barbed point; for birds, they are with three points of light bone, fpread and barbed ; for feals, &c. they ufe a falfe point, inferted in a focket at the end of the dart, which parts on the leaft effort of the ani- mal to dive, remaining in its body. A firing of confiderable length is faflened to this barbed point, and twifted round the- wooden part of the dart ; this ferves as a float to dircdl them to- the feal, which, having the flick to drag after it, foon tires, and becomes an eafy prey. It, however, requires fkill to humour it, perhaps equal to our angling. The boards ufed in throwing thefe darts are equally judicious, and enable the natives to cafl themi. with great exa([tnefs to a confiderable diftance.. The baidars, or boats, of Obnalaflika, are infinitely fuperlor to* thofe of any other ifland. If perfea fymmetry, fmoothnefs, and proportion, conflitute beauty, they are beautiful ; to me they ap- peared fo beyond any thing that I ever beheld. I have feen fome of them as tranfparent as oiled paper, through which you could trace every formation of the infule, and the manner of the natives* fitting in it ; whofe light dreis, painted and plumed bonnet, toge- ther with his perfed eaic and adivity, added infinitely to its ele- gance. Their firft appearance flruck me with amazement beyond exprcfiion,. H ') I X58 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION expreflion. We were in the offings, eight miles £rotn fhore, when they came about us. There was little wind, but a great fwell of the fea : fomc we took on board with their boats ; others conti- nued rowing about the fhip. Nearer in with the land we had a ftrong rippling current in our favour, at the rate of three miles and a half, the fea breaking violently over the fhoal'i, and on the rocks. The natives, obferving our aftonifliment at their agility and fkill, paddled in among the breakers, which reached to their breads, jind carried the baidars quite under water j fporting about more like amphibious animals than human beings. It immediately brought to my recoUedion, in a very forcible light, Shakefpeare's cxpreffion — «« He tioJ the water, " Wliofe enmity he fUing afidc, and breaded *• The furge moil fwohi that met him." Thefe baidars are built in the following manner : A keel eighteen feet long, four inches thick on the top, not three inches deep, and two inches, or fomewhat lefs, at the bottom. Two upper frames, one on each fide, about an inch and a half fquare, and fixteen feet long, join to a fharp flat board at the head, a«id are about fixteen inches fhorter than the ftern, joined by a thwart which keeps them about twelve inches afunder. Two fimilaf frames near the bottom of the boat, fix inches below the upper ones, about one inch fquare. Round fticks, thin, and about fix inches diftant from each other, are tied to thefe frames, and form the fides; for the top thwarts, very ftrong fticks, and nearly as thick as the upper frames, curved fo as to raife the middle of the boat about two inches higher than the fides. There are thirteen of thefe tliwarts or beams : feven feet from the ftern is one of them ; twenty inches nearer the head is another j a hoop about two TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 159 two inches high is faftened between them, for the rower to fit in. This is made ftrong, and grooved to faften an open fkin to, which they tie round their body, and it prevents any water getting into the boat, ahhough it were funk. This frame is covered with the fkin of the fea lion, drawn and fewn over it like a cafe. The whole is fo extremely light, even when fodden with water, that it may be carried with eafe in one hand. The head of the boat is double the lower part, iharp, and the upper part flat, refem- bling the open mouth of a fifli, but contrived thus to keep the head from finking too deep in the water j and they tie a ftick from one to the other to prevent its entangling with the fea weeds. They row with eafe, in a fea moderately fmooth, about ten miles in the hour, and they keep the fea in a frefh gale of wind. The paddles that they ufe are double, feven or eight feet long, and made equally neat with the other articles. The women plait very neat ftraw mats and balkets ; the for- mer ferve for curtains, feats, beds, &c. ; the latter to contain their work and other implements. Their trinkets and coftly orna- ments are kept in fmall wooden boxes with draw lids. " I obferved in all the huts a bafket containing two large pieces of quartz, a large piece of native fulphur, and fome dry grafs or mofs. This ferves them in kindling fires ; for which purpofc they rub the native fulphur on the ftones over the dry graft, ftrewed lightly with a few feathers in the top where the fulphur falls ; then they ftrike the two ftones one againft the other ; the fine particles of fulphur immediately blaze like a flafh of light- ning, and, communicating with the ftraw, fets the whole in a i^ame. i . ■>■ \ - 1 'hi h Their iCo ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION Their only mufic is the tambour, to the beat of which the women dance. Their holidays, which are kept in the fpring and autumn, are fpent in dancing and eating. In the fpring holidays, they wear mafks, neatly carved and fancifully ornamented. I believe that this conftitutes fome religious rite, which, however, I could not perfuade them to explain : I attribute this to the ex- traordinary and fuperftitious zeal of our illiterate and more lavage .pricfl *, who, upon hearing that fome of our gentlemen had ken. a cuve in their walks, where many carved mafks were depofited, went and burnt them all. Not fatisfied with this, he threatened the natives lor worfliiping idols, and I believe I may {di^ forced .many to be chrillcned by him, without being able to alTign to them any other reafon than that they might now worfliip the Trinity, pray to St. Nicholas and a crofs which was hung about their necks, and that they would obtain whatever they alked for j adding, that they muft renounce the devil and all his works, to icGure them eternal happincfs. It appeared to me that they. re- garded this as an infult ; be that as it may, however, they were not pleafed, but had not power to rcfent. • . . . , They have no marriage ceremony among them, but purchafc of father and mother as many girls as they can keep ; and, if they repent of their bargain, the girl is returned, and a part of the purchafe given back. They formerly uled to keep objeds of unnatural afiedion, and drefs thcfc boys like women. * I have called the piiefl more than favp.ge, and fliall relate a cncumflancc that hap. pened in proof. While he wa.i travellinp; from Yakiitfk to Ochotflc, he loft fome provifion on the road. On a mere fiippofition that his two Tartar guides had taken it, he tied each of them up by an arm to a trie, and had t!iem flogged to fuch a degree, that one of them di'';'., and the otlier never recovered the nfc of his arm : it was afterwards known, that fome nmaway exiles hid in tiie woods were the thieves. The prielt fald, iJKrc luas no harm clout s thry were not Chryiiaus. At TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. i5i At births alfo, no ceremony is ufed, except walhing the in- fant, . . They pay refpe£t, however, to the memory of the dead j for they embalm the bodies of the men with dried mofa and grafs ; bury them in their heft attire, in a fitting poflure, in a (Irongbox, with their darts and inftruments ; and decorate the tomb with various coloured mats, embroidery, and paintings. With women, indeed, they ufe lefs ceremony. A mother will keep a dead child thus embahiied in their hut for fome months, conftantly wiping it dry ; and they bury it when it begins to fmell, or when they get reconciled to parting with it. i1 c Lts lap. fion ach hem omi! out ; At They dry falmon, cod, and halibut, for a winter's fupply, and colledl edible roots : this, however, is not for themfelves, but for fuch Ruffian hunters as may chance to vifit them. At this time there are twelve Ruffians and one Kamtfhadal, of TfliirepanofF's company of hunters on the ifland. They have lived here eight years, but are going this year back to Ochotlk. Thefe people lord it over the inhabitants with more defpotifm than generally tails to the lot of princes ; keeping the iflanders in a ftate of ab- jedt flavery ; fending parties of them out on the chafe, and to their veflel, which now lies in the Straits of Alakfa ; feleding fuch women as they like beft, and as many as they choofe. They feem to me to have no defire to leave this place, where they en- joy that indolence fo pleafing to their minds ; for, by changing of places, they change lituations, and become themfelves as much the Haves of power, us the poor natives are to them. I obferved, in croffing the mountains, piles of ftones. Thefc are not burying-places, as has been fuppofcci, hut ferve as beacons Y tc 4 l62 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION to guide them in foggy and fnowy weather from one dwelling to the other ; and every perfon paffing adds one to each heap. The only obfervations that we made on fhore proved our time-keeper ftill going as when we left Kamtfhatka ; our latitude 53° S^'> longitude 194" 20' j variation of the compafs 19" 3 j' eaft. , 1 , . li .Ui i <■} .i ■■■r': /': '. J .j:' ,.i i CHAP, TO THE EASTERN OCEAN. &c. • r^i. 1.- .}b ,.r:i: 'a^- i«3 >».s CHAP. XIII. Depart from OonahiJIoka. — Sec the I/laad of Sannach. — The Shii^ niagins. — Alcntes oppreffcd by the Ruffian Hunters. — Iflands if Evdoketff. — Come to anchor in the Harbour of Kadiak. — Tar" ticulars refpeSling that I/land and its Inhabitants, \\. On the 13th June, at eight A. M , having taicen in a fupply of frefh water, and ballaft, we weighed anchor, with a gentle breeze north-weft ; but, finding that we could not weather the rocks off the eaftern cape, again came to anchor near our old ftation, where we remained till the evening of the 17th, when, the wind fliift- ing more to the north, we weighed, and got out. Our foundings in the bay were 17, 16, 15 fathoms ; fuddeuly deepening fo, that we got no bottom clofe in with land with 1 00 fathoms line. At midnight hoifted in our boats, and proceeded with light airs and foggy weather. The 18th, at 10 A. M., the volcano on the ifland of Akutan bore north- weft 81*. Three conical mountains on the ifland of Oonimak bore, the ^rft, north-weft 18°; the fecond, north- weft 2"; the third, north-eaft 12°. At noon, our diftance made was 41 miles fouth-eaft 86"; latitude obferved 53° ^2' 6", longitude 194° 43'. At one P. M. the volcano in Oonalallika fouth-v^eft 77° ; weft cape of Akutan fouth-u'cft 86'' ; the firft mountain in Oonimak, called by the natives Koogidan Kaigut- fliin, north- weft 12° ; the volcano called Agaiedan, north- caft 8"; the third mountain, Khaiginak, uonh-caft 15". At Y2 4° 30' 55" '^'^i r!v 164 4» 30' keeper, .).■) ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION apparent time, the longitude proved, by tlme- 195 15' 6" 35 Latitude - 5;^° 58' Variation of the compafs o'' 1 9' 40 The evening was very foggy, with rain, light airs from the weft- ward, and calms. At midnight we got foundings with 60 fa- thom line ; a muddy and black fandy bottom. I ii The morning of the 19th was very foggy, with variable light airs from fouth fouth-weft to fouth fouth-eaft. We faw a num- ber of the kotic, or urfine feals, fporting about the veflel j alfo one fea-otter. At eight o'clock we had a gentle breeze from the fouth-eaft, hazy, and rain ; foundings 30 fathoms. We were well In with the ifland of Gonimak, upon which the fog refted ; it trends from the weftern extremity fouth eaft 6f, 18 miles ; to the northern cape 19 miles in a direction north-eaft 62°. The land is high, broken, and rugged, and there are three very confpicu- ous mountains upon it. The fummit of the firft is very irregu- lar ; the fecond is a perfect cone towering to an immenfe height, and difcharging a confiderable body of fmoke from its fummit ; the third (Khaginak) has its fummit apparently rent and broken, covered with fnow, and towering above the fog which covered the middle of the land. On the lower parts of them, and in the vallies, no fhrub nor bufh was to be feen : our latitude at noon was, by reckoning, 54* 25', longitude 196° 6'. In the afternoon we had a frefli breeze from the fouth-eaft by eaft ; our courfc north-eaft by eaft ; keeping the lead going ; foundings pretty re- gular for 30 to 45 fathom. At eight P. M. we tacked and ftood fouth by weft and fouth away from the land. The TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. i«r The 20th, at three A. M. we again tacked for the iflancia, and fhaped our coiirfe to the eaftward ; our foundings varying from 46 to 33 fathom, fmall ftoncs, (hells, and find. It blew frefli, and was hazy with rain. At half paft four in the morning, the weather cleared up a little, and difcovered the ifland of Sannach, with rocks and breakers over a reef, about a mile right ahead of the fliip, fo that we had but juR time to get clear of them. This ifland is inhabited by a few Aleutan families; and in the middle of it are three confiderable mountains, joining toge- ther. The eaft and weftern extremities are low land, and ap- pear verdant, but without wood. It is furrounded by a reef of rocks, fome above water^ and the furf breaking violently over others. At noon our latitude was 54° 22', longitude 1970 37', and our diftance from land 12 miles. The eaft cape bore foutli 55' weft ; the weftern cape fouth-weft sT 3°' ^ compute the length of the ifland at 15 miles. Cape Alakfa lies nearly north of the mountains on this ifland ; the diftance about 38 miles. pi: Shortly after feeing this place (Cook's Halibuts Ifland) we rofe a number of fmaller, forming the group called Shumagins, from their firft difcoverer, — a failor in Bering's expedition. They ex- tended from north-weft to north-eaft, as far as the eye could reach. At one in the morning we were pretty clofe in with the moft remarkable of them, called by the natives Animok, and by the Ruflians Olenoi. This is very high and bluflf; the others are lefs elevated. This is in latitude 54" 44', longitude 198°, and about ten leagues from Alakfa. All thefe iflands are furrounded by rocks, fome above water, and others only difcernible by the breakers. We could not get a good view of the main land, on account of the thick weather ; but now and then faw the tops of tremendous mountains covered with fnow. We i6fi ACCOUNT OF AN KXPI'DITION We had a frcHi hrce/c from tlic weft, fiil'mg under clofc-rccfcd topfails at about fix miles, nortli-caft and north uorih-caft ; ha/y, with a rouj^h Tea. Towards ni^ht the wind fell fcant. On ac- count of the IinmcnCc number of iflands, we flood to tlic weft foutli-wcrt and fouth-wcft, with the intent of ftandiny in again at duy-Hght to view theip. Karly in the morning of the sift, wc l»ad a genllc brcc/c from north north-weft, with pretty clear weather. At 4" wc obfervcd cape Aiakfa north-weft 6^^, at 8" 31' 45" ; our time-keeper gave the loni^itudc 199° 32' 49", latitude 55" V 54". The illands Nagai and Kagai being right a-head, we wilhed to go between them ; but the breakers iiuiiiced us to give up this idea, and vary our courfc from eaft northeaft to eaft by fouth, with a wefterly breeze, going at four knots. At 5° 17' 20" P. M. longitude by time-keeper 200' 35', latitude 54' 54' 24'. At half paft feven in the evening, wc obferved a thrcc-feated baidar, and five fmaller ones, near the Ihip. When they came alongfide we hoifted the rowers and their baidar on board, and learned that they were out on the chafe for fea lions and feals ; that their company confifted of more than one hundred Aleutes, under the diredion of the Ruffian in the three-feated baidar ; and that th^y were hunting for I'anofsky's vcflel, now lying off Aiakfa. We laid-to about three hours with our main topfail to the maft ; and at day-break of the 2 2d fent them off. The Aleutes left us with reludlance, and complained bitterly of the treatment tliat they met with, and 3f being compelled to ferve for years without receiving any re- compence. We, however, had interpreters on board, and could not keep them. At noon our obferved latitude was ^^^ 9' 27", variable light airs. At 5° 7' 45" P. M. our time-keeper gave the longitude 201° 59', latitude ^^^ ii' 20". All TO T/IF 4STFR' OCEAN, &c. i0jr All the 23d we had vanuuie li^lit airs and calms, with foggy and hazy weather. The group of Shumagin iflands arc very clofc togcllicr, alinoll innumerable, and extend from Alakfa foiith 15 or 16 leagues, and from call to weft about 60 leagues ; all of them high and barren, exhibiting a great fimilarity in their appearance, though of various forms and li/cs. Neither tree nor fhrub is to be feen upon them. The low places appear green ; but a brownifh hue diftiiigniliics all the higher mountains, except fuch as are covered with fnow. Some projed into the fea in rugged cliffs ; fome are (harp capes, and often terminate in bluff heads. There appear fome convenient coves ; but it would be hazardous to enter them, on account of the detached and funken rocks that are fcattered about : nor are there any navigable ftraits between them j but they muft be palled either to the fouth, or clofe in with Alakfa. TheCc iflands are generally frequented by fome company of hunters for feals, fea lions, and birds. Sea otters are very feldom found hereabout ; but whales are very numerous, as are feals of different kinds, &c. We fent our jagcrs out in the boats during the calm to fhoot birds, fome of which we found very good- eating. Variable winds and h y weather continued till the 24th at noon, when we got a figiic of the fun, and our latitude proved SS" 41' 7', longitude 201 43'. About half paft twelve a gentle breeze fprung up from the fouth; and, failing north by cafl about two knots, at one we law land ahead. At Icven in the afternoon we rofe more land, bearing north-caft and Ibiuli-eall ; foundings 37 fathoms, fine land. At midnight bore away to the fouth-wcll about two hours, when we again flood in for land, which is called il.' i68 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION called by the RufTians the iflands of Evdokecff (the largeft, Simc- daii), which bore, the ajlh at noon, fouth-eaft, diftaiit about lo miles; our latitude obfcrved, 56° 10' 40', longitude corrt clcd, «02° 55.' We fcnt out a jager, with two Alcutc8,'«to flioot birds. At two wc had \ liable light winds and cloudy weather. Tlirec baidars came along-iide, with a Ruflian hunter from Shclilcoff's EftabliOiment at Kadiak, having about 200 natives in company, in chafe of fca-lions, kotic, and other feals, birds, &c. At three P. M. being about three miles from the iflands, Captain Billings went on Ihore with the naturalift. It was ahnoft calm ; and at five P. M. he returned, defcribing the iflands as complete rocks of coarfe granite, with a few ftuntcd vegetables growing on the low parts. Our three hunters (who went out in a threefeated baidar purchafcd at Oonalaihka), not returning, we fired fignal guns. At fix P. M. the natives, &c. left us, and the Ruffians promifed to feek our men and fend them off. We lay-to all night, with our main-top-fail to the mad, and kept a lanthorn at the mizcn peak. At four o'clock in the morning of the 26th, a gentle brefeze fprung up from the fouth-eaft, and we kept plying off the iflands, with very hazy weather. At fix the men came on board, telling us, that they had loft fight of the fhip in the haze, and only faw her this morning at day-light, when they put off. At 7° 50' 10" we got a fight of the fun ; longitude, by time-keeper, 203" 20', lati- tude 56° 15' 39". At noon, our obferved latitude was ^G" 20' 24" ; the afternoon cloudy, with a moderate breeze from fouth- eaft, fleering north-eaft by eafl. At two P. M. we faw the ifland Okamok in the hazy horizon, bearing fouth-eaft 56°, diftant about fix leagues ; and at eight P. M. it fell little wind and rain. June 27th, at five A. M., we faw the lofty mountains on the ifland of Kadiak j and at eight P. M. faw the low iflands Tooge- 2 dach TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, ice. 169 dach and Slcbtimacli, diftinguiflicd in Captain Cook's chart by the name of Trinity ifland. • The 28th, at break of day, we got in pretty well with tlie ifland of Kadiak, keeping an eaftcrly courfe with variable Hght winds between tlie north and weft, and a clear flcy. At five A. M. numbers of the natives came off in their canoes, of whom the greater part were taken on board and fervcd as pilots, de- fcribing with great accuracy the de'^''*' ' "ve^y opening. Ihe re- [ch The fouth extremity of this iila.ia »^iins a low point of land called by Captain Cook Trinity Cape. It runs out narrowing from mountains of a moderate height. Off this cape, at the dif- tance of one mile, is the ifland Anayachtalak, which Shelikoff names Egichtalik, about three miles and a half north of Trinity Ifland. The ftraits have foundings from 36 to 16 fathom, over a bottom of coral and fhells. Toogidach is low and barren ; Sichtunach lies to the eaft of it three miles. This is low in the middle, with a fmall bay, but both the extremities are high land. The weftern part of Kadiak, though mountainous, is interfperfed with vallies, which produce only a few low flirubs, and appear at a fmall diftance like inlets ; but a barrier of furrounding rocks forbids the approach of any vcflel. In the afternoon we had gentle gales from the fouth-weft and wcfl: ; our courfe was north- eaft, and north-eaft by north. At 4"^ 45' 50" apparent time, our longitude proved, by the time-piece, 205° 50' 30", latitude 56' 49' 8'; variation 27° eaft. When the north-eaft bluff cape of Sichtunach bore fouth-weft 49", diftant two miles and a half, the eaftern point of Anayachtalak was north-weft 79°, by compafs, diftunt about two miles. Having paffcd thefe ftraits at 10 o'clock in the evening, with a wefterly breeze and ftjualls, we got clofe Z ii\ 170 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION m «! ti] h [I in with a fmall Ifland called by the natives Nafikan, 200 fathoms from Kadiak. We paffed thefe llraits v.-ith 24 and 25 fathoms water over a rocky bottom, and foon after fliaped our courfe north north-weft for the bay. Nafikan is a remarkable ifland, two miles long, and one wide; confiding of two round-topt moun- tains, which caufed Captain Cook to name it Two-headed Point. Another projeding promontory, three miles from Two-headed Point, in a diredion eaft by north, he called Cape Barnabas. This is the fouthern cape of the ifland Kunakan, or Kukan, and bears fouth-eaft of the bay, Treck Svatiteley, in which Shelikoff has his EftabUfliment : between thefe two iflands are the ftraits that lead to the bay, which is about a mile wide at the mouth, where foundings increafe to 50, 70, and 75 fathoms. On entering the bay the 29th at day-break, with a moderate breeze from the weft and weft by fouth, we could not get foundings with 100 and 150 fathom line. The fliores are fteep and rocky; fome detached rocks run out a great way, and are nearly hidden at high water. We found great difficulty in getting into the harbour, owing to contrary winds ; and the great depth prevented our fending out a kedge. W^e therefore plyed to windward till half-paft three in the afternoon, when we got above the harbour clofe in with the weftern fliore, where we fent a tow-line with all the hands that we could fpare, who, afllfted by the natives, hauled the ihip into the fmall harbour, and we came to anchor in a muddy boitom, eight fathom, at fix P. M. Here we made the following obfer- vations : This and the nearer iflands are inhabited by about 1300 grown males, and 1200 youths, with about the fame number of females, accoiding to the regifter kept by Shelikoff's Eftablifliment, now under the diredion of Yefftrat Ivanitih Delareff, a Greek ; who informed TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &ic. 171 m iw informed me, that he had now out on the chafe, for the benefit of the Company, upwards of 600 double baidars of the natives, con- taining each two or three men. Thefc are divided into about Cix parties, each under the diredion of a fingle Peredoffhik, or Ruffian leader. Befide thefe, fmall parties are fent out daily to fifli for halibut, cod, &c. Females are employed in curing and drying fi(h ; in digging, wafhing, and drying edible roots ; in colleding ufeful plants, berries, &c. ; and in making the drefles of the na- tives, as alfo for the Ruffians. About two hundred of the daughters of the chiefs are kept at the Ruffian habitations near our anchoring place, as hoftages for the obedience of the natives ; and, as far as I could learn, they are perfedly well fatisfied with the treatment they meet with. The males are lefs fatisfied j and, at the firfl arrival of the Ruffians, feemed inclined to oppofe their refiding on the ifland ; but Shelikoff, furprifing their women col- Icding of berries, carried them prifoners to his habitation, and kept them as hoftages for the peaceable behaviour of the men, only returning wives for daughters, and the younger children of the chiefs. Every confiderable habitation of the natives had large baidars capable of containing forty or fifty men. Thefe were all purchafed by Shelikoft'; and the natives are now in poffi^ffion only of fmall canoes, none of which carry more than three. They feem reconciled to the rules introduced by the prefent chief of the company, DelarefF, who governs with the ftricteft juftice, as well natives as Ruffians, and has eftabliflied a fchool, where the young natives are taught the Ruffian language, read- ing, and writing. He allows a certain number of the hoftages to vifit their relations for a ftipulated time ; thefe returning, others are allowed to go ; and, upon application of any one for his child's abfence, it is not refufed. The whole number of hoftages is about three hundred. Z 2 The n \ 4^ i/a ACCOUN'T OF AN EXPEDITJON The males are employed in the chafe in rotation, as are alfo the females : I mean, for the henefit of the community ; for ihoy lay in an amazing flock of proviliont;, roots, berries, &c. to he fuflicient for a winter's fupply for the whole ifland, natives as well as Ru/Iians ; a circumrtance which fcems, more than any thing elfe, to convince the favages that the Rulilans are not their abfolute enemies ; for DelarefT fays, that they never laid in a fup- ply of food for the winter till the Rulilans taught them ; hut, in bad weather, were obliged to coUedl cockles, mufcles, and other fliell-fifli, or refufe of the lea. Luxuries, fuch as tobacco, beads, linen, fliirts, and nankeen drefles, they pay for in particular. I obferved, that fuch of the parties as were fuccefsful In procuring rich fklns, received a fti- pulated payment ; for each fea-otter, a firing of beads about four feet long ; for other furs in proportion ; and that only food and the fkins of feals w^ere the property of the community, of which the natives certainly enjoy the greater (hare, being by far the more numerous ; and the fkins of feals are chiefly ufed by the natives to mend their baidars, and make new ones ; in the latter cafe, they are purchafed for furs, foxes, marmot, otters, &c. or by fervice. This Eftabllfhment confifts of about fifty Ruffians, Includ- ing oflficers of the company, and Sturman Ifmailof}', who is here, on the part of government, to colled tribute : this Is the fame Ruffian officer that was feen, by Captain Cook's Expedition, at Oonalailika, in the year 1778. He was one of the afTociates of Benyowfky's confpiracy (by his own account forced away) j but Benyowfky only carried him to one of the Kuril iflands, wh-^re he TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, «:c. ''n he flogp.cd liim and put hi in on fliore, with feveral others that were Jilaireclcd. The buildin2;s cnnlifl: of five lioufcs after the Ruffian fafhion. Barracks laid out in different apartments, fomewhat like the boxes at a coffcehoul'e, on either iidc, with different offices : An office of appeal to fettle difputes, levy fines, and punifh offenders by a regular trial ; here Delareff prefides ; and I believe that few courts of juftice pais a fentcnce with more impartiality : An office of receival and delivery, both for the company and for tribute : The commiifaries' department, for the diftribution of the regulated portions of provifion : Counting-houfe, &c. : all in this building, at one end of which is Delareff's habitation. Another building contains the hoftages. Befide which, there are ftorehoufes, ware- houfes, &c. rope-walk, finithy, carpenters' fliop, and cooperage. Two veffels (galliots) of about 80 tons each are now here, quite unrigged, and hauled on a low fcaffold near the water's edge. Thefe are armed and well guarded, and ferve for the protedion of the place. Several of the Ruffians have their wives with them, and keep gardens of cabbages and potatoes, four cows and twelve goats, Delareff is of opinion, that corn will grow near the eftablifliment which they are about forming in Cook's river. One of the Ruffian officers, who has coliabited with a female native fome years, and has had feveral children by her, applied to our prieft to chriften her in form, and then join them toge- ther in the holy bands of matrimony ; which was done. She is a handfome woman, but pundured on the chin, and her under lip is perforated. Her houfe was exfemely clean, as were alfo her children, and the latter apparently very healthy. She was dreffed ia 14 the U '^% »74 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION the Siberian failiinn, and feemcd perfeiSil mlftrefs of Riiflian eco» noniy. I dined with them, and was very well fatisfied with the treatment tiiat I met with. It was matter of amazement to me, while In Irkutfk, Yakutfk, and Ochotflc, to hear the very high wages given by Shelikoft'to his common failors ; being from 600 to 1000 fdver rubles yearly : their engagement, however, obliges them to purchafe all their neceflaries and luxuries of the Company at the market price. Here is only one market, which is the Company's ftock ; and the prices of articles are as follow : Brandy, one ruble per glafs ; tobacco, ^o rubles per lb. and fometimes more ; a fhirt, made of Ruffian coarfe check, fomething refcmbling buntine in the loofe- nefs of the thread, 10 rubles; boot legs, without foles, 15 rubles and upward'5 ; and every thing in proportion : fo that their ex- penccs (they not being allowed to trade) exceed their falaries. Some of the men bitterly complained of this ; but they laid no- thing to the charge of Dclareft": on the contrary, every one, na- tive and Ruffian, fpoke highly in his favour, and acknowledged fcveral indulgencies received at his hands. ShellkofF has called this ifland Kichtak, as the original name of it ; in which, however, he is miftaken ; for Kichtak, or Kightak, is merely an ifland ; they call the Trinity Ifiand Kightak Sichtu- nak ; this, Kightak Kadiak ; and, to my allonifliment, one of them called Alakfa a Kightak, or ifland j and affirmed, that there were ftraits three days' row to the north of Kadiak. I made it Iny bufmefs to afcertaln this, if poffible ; but had not an oppor- tunity of learning any more, than that a river from a lake fell into the fea wefl: of Kadiak, and that they carried their boats over a low mountain to an inlet, wiiich communicated with Briftol Bay. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. »75 Bay. Tills was known to the Ruffi.xn hunters and fcveral natives, who, in coiifinnation, laid, that they obtained the talks of the Walriils, or Morzfli, from the oppofite (liore of Alakfa : their befl; fpears were pointed with tiiem. The natives call tliemfclves Soo-oo-it, and their magicians Kan- ghcmcut. I could not obtain any name from them for the Al- mighty ; although they fay, that there is a fuperior being who has the command of all the Ipirits ; and that the wrath of thelti fpirits is only K; be appcafed by offerings, and in fome cafes their flaves are facrlficed, but very feldom ; for all the prifoners that they take in their wars (which are aimed perpetual, one tribe againft another) become flaves, anfl are fubicd: to ill treatment, particu- larly from the women. The female prifoners are all flave;^, and fold from one tribe to another for trinkets, inflruments, &c. Not only their prifoners, however, are their labourers or flaves, but orphans become the property of thofe who bring them up, and are frequently redeemed by the relations of the parents j efpecially fuch as were inhabitants of other iflands. U The dv llings of the natives differ from thofe of Oonalalhka* They are but very little funk in the ground, and have a door fronting the eaft, made of a framed feal flcin ; a tire-place in the middle ; a hole over it, through the roof of the houfe, which ferves at once for the difcliarge of fmoke, and the admiffion of light. The fides, partitioned off for fleeping and fitting places, are covered with grafs mats, much coarfer made than thofe of Oonalafhka. Each hut, or dwelling, has a fmall apartment at- tached to it, which ferves for a vapour bath ; ftones are heated in the open air, and carried into ihefe places, where the heat is increafed iy6 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION 5 I increafed to any degree by the fleam from water which Is poured upon them. The cuAoms of thefe favages are nearly allied to thofe of the Oonalaflikans. They have the fame kind of inllruments, darts, and boats, or baidars ; but much worfe made ; nor are they fa active upon the water. Their dances are proper tournaments, with a knife or lance in the right hand, and a rattle in the left ; the rattle is made of a number of thin hoops, one in the other, covered with white feathers, and having the red bills of the fca- parrot fufpended on very fliort thread? ; which, being fliaken^ ftrikc together, and make a very confiderable noife : their mufic is the tambourine, and their fongs are warlike. They frequent- ly are much hurt, but never lofe their temper in confequence of it. In thefe dances they ufe mafks, or paint their faces very fantafti- cally. The dances of the women are only jumping to and fro upon their toes, with a blown bladder in their hand, which they throw at any one whom they wifh to relieve, and who always accepts the challenge. The firfl: character, is the athletic and fkilful warrior j the fe- cond, the fleet and expert hunter ; the former enjoys hi? prifon- ers and the booty of his enemy ; the latter has his wives, la- bourers, and flaves by purchafe, and the ability that he pofleffes to maintain them. The moft favoured of women is (he who has the greateft number of children. TJie women feem very fond of their offspring; dreading the effedts of war, and the dangers of the chafe ; fome of them bring up their males in a very effeminate manner, and are happy to fee them taken by the chiefs, to gratify their unnatural defires. Such youths are drcfTed like women, and taught all their domeflic duties. Tliere Pni/f ijil. Platr yi. ,ifi\m/nfrr t/r/. / ' //<-/// f>/ P ^^/^/V^^/C / . Rjr. rrrmek X.-ii//'; ■^..\ SI 1'iihli.iliril Miirrli ii iKos.bv Cmlill K\Dinie«, Xinwd. M 1 f TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 177 Tliere is no ceremony in marriage : the ability to fuppovt women gives authority to take them, with their confcnt ; in which cafe, the couple are condudled by the relatives of the girl to the vapour bath, which is heated, and they are left together 5 but fomc prefent is generally made to the girl's father and mother. I inquired whether they lent their wives to one another ? They told me, No; unlefs they were barren, and dcfired it; if they then had a child, they became the property of hs father. No other ceremony is obferved at births, than wafliing the child, and giving it a name. The dead body of a chief is embalmed with mofs, and buried. The moft confidential of his labourers are facrificed and buried with him ; alfo his inftruments of war or the chafe, and fome food. Numbers of the natives are baptized ; but Dela- refF, the dire£lor of the Company, would not allow our prieft to compel any to become Chriftians j he, however, allifted him in perfuading as many as he could. Such as were at the fchool eftablifhed, willingly embraced the Greek religion, as did alfo numbers of the women. The drefles of the natives are the fame as at Oonalaflika, but worfe made ; they are open about the neck, and have but very few ornaments. They are extremely fond of blue beads and amber, and carry on a trade with the natives of the neighbour- hood of Cook's River, where they purchafe their baidars and canoes for trinkets, provifions, and oili of whales and feals. They life darts and lances headed w^h flate, with which they kill the fea animals. They alfo ufc poifon to their arrows, and the Aconite is the drug adopted for this u-pofe. Seleding the roots of fuch A a plants .78 ACCOUNT OF AN FATF.DITION plants 113 grow alone, tlicl'c roots arc dricJ .md pounded, or grated ;• water is then poured upon them, and they arc kept in a warm place till iermentcd : when in this (hue, the men anoint the points of their arrows, or lances, which makes the wound that may he inflik^ed mortal. ( < I *i They treat their vifitors, upon firft entering:; their dwellings, with a cup of cold clean water. When they have relied a while from tlic fatigue of rowing or walking, they put before ihcm whale's flcdi, the meat of fca lion, filli, berries mixed with oil, and boiled farana, alfo mixed with filh oil ; and it is exped:ed that the gueft fliall eat all that is fet before him. In the mean- time their bath is heated, and the gueft is conducted into it, where he receives a bowl of the melted fat of feals or bears, to drink. The more the gueft eats and drinks, the greater honour is done fo the hoft ; but if he cannot eat all that is put before him, ho muft take the remains away with him. They begin their chace in February on the fouth fide of Kadiak ; for the kotic it continues all March j in April they de- part from Kadlak to the neighbouring iflands for fea otters, which are in the greateft perfection in April and May j alfo for feals, fea lions, birds eggs, &e. The ift of June whales and other filla arc caught, Air ana gathered, &c. The firft fi(h that appears is the halibut ; then falmon, the fame fpecies as in Kamtfhatka. They continue this chace till the end of OCVober, when they retire to their win- ter dwellings. November they fpend in vifiting each other, feafting in the manner of the Oonalaflikans, and dancing with mafks and painted faces. A Toca* TO TIIK FASTKRN OCEAN, &c. 179 A Vocabulary of their Langu.igc, as well as of the languages of the other nations that I have vifitcd, is given at the end of the Volume. The birds that I obfervcd licreabout were fuch as I faw at Onnalafhka, and about Shuniagin's iflands : wild gccft; ''^j different kinds of ^n\h ; the crefted and tufted auk ; blue pcttrcl, of a rufty dark brown, very like the fwallow ; tie foolifli and black guille- mot ; divers, and a great variety of ducks : the flelh of which are eaten by the natives, the Ikins uled tor drcffes, and the billo, particularly of the fca-parrot, employed for ornament. Bears now and then appear upon the ifland of Kadiak, fwim- ming acrofs the ftraits that divide it from Alakfa five miles. The whiftling marmots arc numerous, as are alfo mice. Foxes, and ftone-foxes, are fcarce fince the eftablifliment of the Ruffians ; In fadt, thefe and the marmot are the only animals that the Ruffians can kill ; for they are not capable of chafing the fea animals, which requires particular agility in governing the fmall leather canoes, in which the natives purfue the fea-lion, the urfiae-feal, fea-otter, porpoifes, and common fealst The fea-lion, called by the Ruffians fivootlha, is the ftrongeft and largeft of the feal kind ; covered with dark coloured coarfe hair, which is very thick and long about the neck and Ihouldcrs ; the hind part is tapering, with fmooth (hort hair. The largeft is about eight feet long. They copulate and pafs every night on * Goof^> with a black bill ; the upper mandible has a callous elevation, A triangiihf white fpot runs from tlic throat along the cheeks on boili fides, to the hind part of the head. The bottom of the under part of the neck, vent featherj, belly, and coverts of the tail, white; breall, back, and wings dulky brown ; legs a dull dark colour. A a 2 feme i8o ACCOUNT OF AN EXPF.DITIO>T ibino lOck by thcinlclvcs, one male and a niunl)cr of fcmalofl, driving away, or klllin|^, every other Tpccios of animal that may approacli tlu m. The males have frciiuently very dcfpM'ate engage- ments, and ihc conqueror is immediately joined by all the females. They arc extremely bold, and will attack men if difturbed on t!ic rockp. They have a fmall white fpot on the tem[)les, nearly as large as a half-crown piece; and this is the only place about them vulner- able by arrows, which hardly pierce the ikin in other parts; but, if poifoned, they penetrate deep enough to Infiife the baneful quality. The meat of ihefc animals is cut in tliin llireds, and dried by the hunters, who efteem it good eating. I thought it bad and iilhy; but the head, which is equal in fize to that of a large ox, I thought very good, If well dewed, and eaten with farana and other edible roots. The fccond fpecles is the kotio, or urline-fcal : the largeil are about fix feet long, covered with beautiful filvery grey hairs, of the colour of the Siberian fquirrcl, having a foft downy under fur, refembling brown fdk. The young kotie are extremely playful in the water ; the head very nearly refembles that of a lamb with long ears ; and they live upon rock-weeds. The flefli of the young ones is well tafted, but the colour is blue, and un- pleafant to the eye. Thefe fwarm together in great herds on the low Iflands, and arc killed by being ftruck jull above the nofe with a fliort bludgeon. When tliey fmd themfelves in danger, they attempt to bite. When very young, the fur is of a beauti- ful fliort glofly black, which changes to filvery when they grow* up; and when they become very old, they are almort white. %' Tl;e moil valuable fur is that of the fea otter, called by the hunters, and in RufTia, Moiikoi I56bre. The fur of the young ones is rough and long, of a light brown colour (fomcthin?,- like the young cub of a bear), and is called Medvedka, the diminutive of TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. i8i of bear: this is of no value: the micltlliiig fi/cd arc darivcr ami vn!ual)Ie ; thefe are diftingui(hed by the name of KolhK)k : hut the moll valuable arc wiiat is called the M.itka, or mother ; the largell arc about five feet long, with a ricii fur nearly black, in- terfperfed with longer hairs of u glolVy white. The fur is up- right, not inclining any particular way, from an inch to an inch and a hall' long. I had a young fea otter drclfed, and it tafted exadly like a fucking pig. There are no more on the coaft of Kamtlhatka ; they are very fcldom feen on the Alcutan iflands ; of late, they have forfakcu the Shumagins ; and I am inclined to think, from the value of the ficin having caufcd fuch devaflation among them, and the purfuit after tliem being fo keen, added to their local fituation between the latitudes of 45° and 60", that fifteen years hence there will liardly exitl any more of this fpecies. Sea cows were very numerous about the coaft of Kamtfliatka, and the Aleutan illands, at the time when they were fnR dif- covered ; but the lad of this fpecies was killed in 1768 on 13ciiiv/,'s illand, and none have been ever feen iince. Whales are in amazing numbers about the flralts of tlie iflands, and in the vicinity of Kadiak ; the natives purfue thcin In ihur fmall boats, and kill numbers with a poiioned llatc-pointed laijcc. Their melted fat is an article of great trade to the contincrl, being carried thither in bladders by the iilandcrs ; for wliieh '.hey ob- tain the land animals, boats, darts, Haves, &:c. I obferved the fame fpecies of falmon here r.s at Ooliotlk, and faw crabs; fome flitlls of lobllers in the beach ; cockles weigh- ing a pound each, and a variety of other ihell-iilh. 1 hcle arc the food of the fea-ottcr. Tlic *^i k .S2 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPr.DITION The ILillbuts in thefe feas arc extremely large, fome weighing fcventeen poods, or fix hundred and twelve pounds avoirdupois. Tiie fins and tail arc good eating ; but the body of the liili is very coarfc and dry. The liver of this liOij as alio of cod, the natives eftecni unhealthy, and never eat, but extract the oil from them. The harbour in wliich the Rufllans have their Eftablifliinent is called Treeh Svatiteley. It is on the fouth-wefl fide of the Bay formed by a lovs' fpot of land running out from the fide of one of the lofticft mountains ; and, taking a circular fweep north and weft, forms a harbour of about two miles in circumference, with foundings from eight to three fathom, over a bottom of mud. Near the dwellings, is a frefli water brook ifTuing out of the mountain ; and at the bottom of it are their cook-houfes, and two infignificant fait water lakes. This ifland is fubjed to frequent earthquakes, which are fome- times very violent. We obferved high water at the new moon at 1 1° 45', the rife about eight feet. The variation of the com- pafs 26" eaft; by the meridian line: the longitude of the harbour 205^ 30', latitude ^y'^ 5'. The natural produdions of the ifland that fell under my view were, the elder in abundance ; the low willow ; fome brufh- wood, ginfeng, wild onions j the edible roots of Kamtfliatka ; feveral fpecics of berries, with currants and rafphcrries in abund- ance, the latter white, but extremely large, being bigger than any mulberry that I have ever feen, but watery in tafte. Several of the natives had fraall bunches of fnake-root, which they obtained from Alakfa. In !^ ^'■^ li,. I: TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 183 In the interior, they have good timber of common pine ; and on the eaRern point of the ifland, which Captain Cook called Cape Grcvllle, they have a very confiderable foreft of pines, whence they bring the trees to build their huts here, and repair their vefTels. ! - tain Billings being at the obfervatory) not to go on fhore, nor venture to any great diftance. I left the fhip at one o'clock, and paddled with the tid-; at the rate of about eight miles in the hour, without paying any attention to the difl:ance. On attempting to return, I found the tide too fl:rong againft me. I did not fee a finglc native any where, nor any traces ot them, and refolved to enter a fmall cove to wait the return of tide, and to get a draught of frelh water from a brook that I obferved. After entering a fmall inlet, I difcovered that my retreat was cut off by fome of the nativ 's. My drcfs was a nankeen jacket and trowfers ; and I had a few clafp knives and beads in my pocket, which I gave the natives; particularly a woman whom I obferved amongft them in a nankeen camley, and who addrefled me, to my aftonilh- ment, in the Ruffian language ; which rather Increafed the uneafy fituation that I found myfelf in, on account of the complaints that they had made, on board, of Polutoff's company. I found, however, no great difficulty in perfuading her that I was not a Ruffian. She gave me a bowl of water, and treated me with berries upon which the oil of feals had been poured. She told me, that PolutofF had taken her away by force, and kept her above a year, till £he had learned the Ruffian language. After that, i'M t( i 1-90 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION that, (he allbclatcd with ZaikofT, and returned to the Sound, making herftlf then* interpreter. She laid, that ^^aikolF, who was a very good man, and behaved well to every body, had favoured her elcape, and that they had been well revenged upon Polutoff and his crew ; for that a boat from each of the vclTels had been on ihorc to cut wood, and had pitclied two tents (one for each com- pany) at a fmall dirtancc from each other. It was in the autumn ; the night was dark ; and only one man watched at a fire fide, fitting on the beach. The natives crawled, unheard, clofe to the watch at I'olutofF's tent, killed him, and, rulhing into the tent, murdered every foul there, without molcfting Zaikoff's tent, or any of his people. t! She invited me to their dwelling, and aflured me that I Ihould be fafe. I afked her how far it was. She faid, that if I left the ihip at fun-rife I fliould arrive at her dwelling before fun-fet ; that the habitation was acrofs the ftraits at the end of the Sound (pointing to the eaftward of the north), near the difcharge of a large river. This induced me to afk her, if the land about us conftituted any part of the continent. After fome converfation between her and the chief, ftie told me, that the openings were all ftraits. I promifed that I would go with her if they would come on board in the morning for me, and that I would give them beads and other trinkets. At half part three it was high water, and I put off, very well pleafed to get away ; for they all admired my baidar fo much, that I was much afraid of lofin-- it and my fenfations, when I fnft difcovered myfelf in their power, were very unpleafant. I arrived on board at half part four, and relieved Captain Hall of his anxiety on my account, but forbore relating my adventure, left ic iliould prevent my future excur- fi ons, TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, ice. i$.i fions, which I promlfed inyfelf fliould not lead me into fuch dan- ger a fccond time. Early in the morning of the 23d the woman came alongfide, with about ten double canoes, and brought a fea-otter (kin, which I took for a few beads. They afkcd me to accompany them, and the chief would remain in the fhip till I came back; but Captain Billings would not agree to it. Neither Captain Hall nor Saret- fheff faw any reaibn for objeding to this trip, efpecially as the chief offered to ftay on board as hoftage for my return. Captain Billings at this time had the woman and chief in his cabin, out of which they returned in gieat halle, and in feeming rage left the Ihip. I was extremely forry, as it deprived me of the hopes of getting fuch information as I wifhed to obtain concerning the ftraits, and particularly the large river that (he fpoke of. They rowed to the obfervatory, and took a cafque from the head of one of our grenadiers, with which they attempt ^H to run away,, but returned it on being overtaken. They, indeed, (hewed an a(lonifliing propenfity to thieving, even of fuch things as could not have been of any fervice to them ; and, upon being deteded, returned the articles with amaz- ing compofure. Their language and manners differ but very little from thofe of the iflanders at Kadiak. Towards evening of the 24th July, Captain Saretflieff went with the long-boat armed, to furvey the Sound, to examine the dwellings of the natives, and to difcover whether the land was any part of the continent, or merely iflancls. lie returned in the afternoon of the 27th, and gave the following account of his excurfion. " I went ^1' ■n, lOi ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION " I went north about eleven miles and a half, where the coaft " trends eaftward. Here fix Americans, in four baidars, over- " took us, and faid that they wanted to condud or accompany *' us. In the evening, when we halted for tlie night in a fmall " bight (not fo hr as they wiflied us to go), they left us. Here " we faw a crofs affixed *. The next day we proceeded ; and " at the diftance of fixteen miles and a half the land trended " away to the fouth-eaft, into what appeared to us a very cxten- " five bay. On account of foggy weather, we could not well " difcern the oppofite fliore, which, however, appeared at times, " and feemed rather low land. At eighteen miles the fliores led " to the north-eaft. Here we again Hiw the natives in eight *• baidars. They faid that they had been on the chafe out at fea, " and that we were in the ftraits ; but advifed us not to continue ** our courfe much farther, as it was very {hallow, and the " breakers were fo violent that they found great difficulty in paffing in their fmall canoes ; adding, that the place was quite dry at low water. They faid, that the oppofite fliore was like- wife a large ifland, and that the ftraits were alfo fliallow and nearly dry at low water. The oppofite fliore was not to be " feen on account of the fog. We proceeded, in all, twenty- " three miles. The fog clearing up a little, difcovered both " fliores and the fea. The cape on the right hand was about " two miles diftant. The left fliore trended to the north-eaft. " At a little diftancc from fliore were two fmall iflands, and a de- " tached high rock. We crofTed the ftraits backwards and for- " wards in returning, with foundings from one and a half to two " and a half fathoms, fand. It was high water j and, that the ♦ I am inclined to think that it was crcc^od by ZaikofT, or Polutoff, in conftqucnce of iheir people being buried here. , ** boat TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 195 *' boat llioulj not be loft dry, \vc proceeded back at feven o'clock " in the evening, and palled the niglit of tlic 26th in a fmall *' bight about l\\ miles from the fliip. Here we found a few na- *' tivcs in their fuinmer habitations for the fake of the chafe^ " who received us in a very friendly manner, aUuring us that *' they had nv 1 ul intentions, bccaufe wc behaved well to them, " and not like lome villtors who had been before us. I told " them, that thofe who treated them ill were not government " Ihips ; ana that whenever they favv a Ihip with fuch a flag as " ours, they might go on board with great lafety." (*' Signed G. Sarf^tihcff, and da»:ed 27th July 1790.) He did noc like the appearance of fome of the natives, and kept r. 'ory good loo'.: out, to prevent his being furprifed. On the 28th, I made a little excurfion in the long-boat well armed, with the naturalift and drawing-maftcr, and returned the next day without feeing any of the natives, or meeting with any circumftance worth relating. An old man came aboard on the 2gth, who fecmed very good natured and intelligent. Mr. Sarct- flieflfand I entered into converfation with him through our Ame- rican interpreter, and afked him, how long it was lince the firft fliips made their appearance among them ; and whether he re- membered any boats having been loll ? He anfwered, that feveral boats had been loft, which, by his account, we thought to have been Spaniards. He faid, that they frequented (on th: :hafe in • I think it neceffar)' to notice, that upon Mr. SaretfhefT's arrival in Kamtfliatka he diC- covtrcd tliat his Interpreter knew that the natives wanted him to go up the bay, tliat Iu';i boat might be left dry, when they meant to attack him and nuudcr all his people. Upou Mr. Saretlhcff's afl;autiful forefts that approached to the water's edge. The (liore was even, and appeared fandy. We kept the continent on llie right hand, failing a north-wellerly courfe to get behind an illand conlifting of a high inouutain covered with wood, which was only to be done by plying to windward. " Tiie 19th we were two German miles off the north-wefl extremity of the ifland. We hail oblervod, the day before, ftraits between it and the continent ; and I thought that fome confulerable river emptied itftlf in the vicinity. My reafons were, — the current two miles out at fea ; and the difference in the colour of the water, which was alfo fredier. •' T mentioned my conji.f>ures, but they were laughed at. The whole of this day we t niploytd ill plyii'g to wiiul^vard, to get clofe lo the illand in'.o the inlet that we had obferved the TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. »95 and Is undoubtedly the very fpot where Steller landed, and where the things above mentioned were left in the cellar. Thus it is very plain, that Cape Saint Elias is not the fouthern point of Montague ifland, but Kay's ifland. This native farther told us, that at the north extremity of Kay's iHand, there was a bay fhel- tered from the wind ; that the entrance at low water was as deep as his double paddle (which is about feven foot) ; and that there are runs of frefh water into it, but no great rivers. A very confi- derable river, however, falls into the fea a day's journey north of our anchorage, up which the natives travel 14 days to the refi- dence of a different nation, the people of which fupply them with knives, copper kettles, and inftruments, and make their canoes. the day before. The 20t1i we came to anchor between iflands ; and, in compliment to the day, named the extremity of the large ifland Cape Saint Elias," &c. ChytrofF, the mailer, was fcnt on fhore to furvey, and Mr. Steller accompanied him to make his obfervations on fliore on the " three kingdoms of nature." He faw the traces of inhabitants, and difcovered one of their cellars, into which he en- tered. It contained, 1. Lukoflikan. • Thcfe are a kind of box of the bark of trees, about two yards high, containing fmokc-dricd Ailinon. 2. A quantity of the fvveet plant of Kamtfliatka, but cleaned and prepared in a better manner. 3. Several fpecies of grafs, cleaned like liemp ; I took them for nettles, which grow here in abundance ; perhaps ufed, as in Kamtfliatka, for iilhing-nets. 4. Tiie dritd inner bark of larch and fir in rolls, fuch as I have fecn in Kamtfliatka, tlirougli all Siberia, and even in fc.ie parts of RulTia ; and which is eattn in cafe of need. 5. Large packs of thongs of fca- weeds, of great ilrength. Pniidcri a few arrows made like thufe of the Tartars and Tungoofe ; blacked, and wrouglit f() fniootli, that I apprehend they have iron iiiiuMments. He carried wiili him on board two bundles of fiOi; an arrow; a wooden inftrument for making tire, r^fembliiig that ufed formerly by the Kamtfliadals, willi tinder made of dried leaves ; a bundle of the wood ; foine bark, and fome of the grafs. Sailors were afterwards font to leave an iron kettle; a pound of tobacco ; a Chincfe to bacco pipi', and a piece of Chlnefe iilk ; in return, tiuy nearly plundered tiie cellar. C c 2 ' That ^f)6 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPrniTION That thefc people trade with otiicrs farther inland, and obtain from them knives and other articles ; hut that his nation never go farther than 14 days* journey. That the articles of their trade are, the fkins of fca-lions, for boats; oil of fea animaKs ; finall Ihells ; and mufclc-fhells for points to arrows ; and that thefc were a very powerful and warlike paople. Another obfervation of his, I think it very ncceflary to men- tion : it was a pofitive adcrtlon, that there were (Iraits and illands as far as we could ice ; aiul that to the fouth-eaft there was " A GREAT SAi/r WATER," with many entrances to it. I repeatedly alked the quellion, and could not be millaken in the anfwcr ; :au\ I would moil willingly have flayed on the coafl alone, to explore thcfe unknown parts from tribe to tribe, until I had loll myf'lf, or found my way to Europe through fonic of thefc cranny paf- fitges. I am aware, that I was thought a madman for it ; but this madnefs, this cnthuiiallic confidence, would, I am certain, have aflifted my fuccefs ; nor would I have left unexplored a river of which we had Inch confirmed accounts, without good reafon for it ; for I never met with any men that would refufc afliilance to one individual, who, without the means of being their enemv, was at all times in their power. Over and above all this, I declare, that I have complete confidence in a Supreme Being, who governs every thought, and infpires means of ex- prelTion to fcourc the devotee in exploring his wifdom. I hope thai my rliapfodics will not olfcnd my readers : they are notes penned at the iuftant when my feelings were mod acute, and with a view of making them known to the public on a future day. Captain TO TUK EASTERN OCEAN, &c. »97 Captain BillingR had received intelligence of tins river from Mr. Dclarcfl', the dircdor of Shclilc()il"s companies at Kadiuk, Afognak, and Cook\s River ; wlio gave the natives tlie character of good people ; and faid, that tlic.y ale, drank, and flept to- gether in the moll friendly manner; and 1 lirmly believe what he laid '^ Wc took in a number of line fpars, with a Aipply of water, and caught with our net in-lhore fomc falmon, belidc taking fome flat fifli by angling over the Ihip's fide. Having hauled up a large fixate while the nativea were about the fliip In their boats, as many • I lliiiik it ncccfr.iiy to communicate tlic following iiitclliyc-icc i>f lliia Geullcmaii vcr- iiiilhn. '* I fallal from Ocliutflc iiptiic month of July 17^1 ; nnlvcd tljc ictli Augufl. at Com- niniidorflu' (I'liin;;'!)) Ifl.iiul, wlicrc I \vliitcrc"ed three times round the velfel, one man Handing in the middle, fnig- ii)g, and waving his hand^i. I '11011 being invited they eame alioaid, and I obtained four, teen fca-otter (kins lor glafs I)c.ids, chieflj' blue. 1 offered tljcm fliirts and clothes, which they ay be allowed to hazard a conjedure of my own con- cerning the land that wc faw, it is, ihat I do not think any one place, except Mount Saint Elias, conftitutes any part of the conti- nent ; not even Cape Elizabeth ; and I have my doubts of Alakfa itfelf. I think that the whole is formed of a clofe conneded chain of iflands, feparated by ftraits from the main land. I ob- I fervcd TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. ao3 ferved no change in the colour of the water, however clofe in with fhore ; which muft have been the cafe had any confiderable rivers fallen into it ; but we faw none, and our enquiries do not juflify the fuppofuion that rivers exift, except beyond the ftraits ; for the rivers were fpoken of by the natives as lying be- hind the iflands. I could not perceive any alteration in the tafte of the water, not even where we were at anchor, and it was ex- ceedingly pellucid. i .\ However, I fhall take leave of this coaft, and proceed to give An account of our return. No fooner was this refolvcd upon, than the wind (hifted from north-eaft to weft and fouth-weft. We kept a courfe as much to the weft of the fouth as poffible ; and on the 4th, at eight P. M. our time-keeper gave the longi- tude 215", latitude 56° $;^'f variation 27° 50'. On the 6th, we faw feveral land birds and floating wood, our latitude ^^'^ 15', longitude 214° 15', variation 26^ 10' eaft. We had abrilk gale at fouth-weft, fteering fouth fouth-weft, one half weft, the fea running very high, fucceeded by calms and variable light airs : all the 9th we had a favourable breeze from the fouth fouth-eaft, with rainy and mifty weather. We made a good run weft fouth- weft. On the loth, calms and baffling winds. At 4° 10' 25" P. M. apparent time, our longitude by time-keeper was 210° 9' 15", latitude 54° 29' 17". The (hip's reckoning made us one degree more weft ; but the latitude was within two miles. The difference of longitude increaling every obfervation induced Cap- tain Billings to doubt the rate of going of the time-piece. On our paftage out, the ftiip's reckoning and our obfervatlons agreed fo well, that he could not by any other means account for the difference. On the 14th, the amplitude of the fetting fun gave the variation 23° 12' eaft. The 15th, at nine A. M. longitude Dd 2 by I I Si.' to4 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION by time-keeper 201^ 49' 30", latitude 54° 15' 6", by fliip's reckoning longitude 200° 47', latitude 54"^ 11'. Mifty weather prevented our obferving again till the 26th Auguft, at 9** 10' 45" A. M. wlien the time-keeper gave the longitude 194"' 2i' 15", fliip's reckoning 190° 20' eall. At noon, our obferved latitude was 52" 22' 16", by fhip's reckoning 52** 14'. In the evening of the 26th, we encountered a hard gale of wind from weft fouth- weft, and laid-to under fore, main, and mizen fails. The gale continued till the 28th, at five P. M. when, it abating a little, we fet our clofc-reefcd top-fails. At noon we got an imperfedt view of the fun, which gave the latitude 52' 13' 2 ', variable light airs, cloudy: at times rain. Suppofing ourfelves about the meridian of Oonalafhka, having but a fcanty fupply of water on board, and the natives wilhing to be at home, we flood to the north for this ifland, with rainy and foggy weather, which grew fo thick that we could not fee half a mile a-head ; and reaching the latitude of 52'^ 59' by account, without feeing land, at the fame time a brifk gale fpringing up from the fouth by eaft, it was refolved upon to profecute our voyage to Kamtfhatka, and keep the natives till the next fpring. The ufe of frelh water was now prohibited, except where abfolutely neceflary : foggy, mifty, and rainy weather con- tinued. The 30th, at fix P. M. we thought we faw land weft north-weft, but the fog hid it before we could poflibly afcertain whether it was fo or not : however, we ftood away to fouth all night. Our latitude was by account ^;^'^t longitude 191° 25'. On Sunday, the ift of September, we had a brifk gale from the weft north-weft, fleering fouth-weft. During the night, and par- ticularly this morning at eight o'clock, the fea running very high, and the fhip in great motion, we experienced a violent fliak- ing an ^ trembling of the veflfeJ, as if her keel were rubbing againft TO THK EASTERN OCEAN, Sic. 205 agatnfl an uneven bottom ; it laftcd fevcral fcconds, and we fup- pofcd it to have been cauled by an earthquake. At noon the altitude 41" 2' 30", proved our huitude 52"^ 59' 46", which, by our (hip's reckoning, was only 52'^ 23'. The 3d, at 8' ;^^' 25" A. M. our time-keeper gave the longitude 195'' 10', latitude 51^ Jo' 33' » our reckoning, longitude 189' 50', latitude 51*^ 29'. At noon, our obferved latitude was 5i*»9' 33", Notwithftanding Captain Billings doubted very much the regu- larity of his time-keeper, he never miffed an opportunity of afcertaining the longitude with it ; yet he placed the greater confidence in the ihip's reckoning. I was quite of a contrary opinion, confirmed by the difference exifting in the reckoning of Commodore Bering in 1741, which was near 12 degrees ahead of Bering's ifland at the time when the Ihip was wrecked upon it. The 4th September, at noon, a fudden fquall carried away our fore-maft a little below the cap ; the top-maft, in falling, alfo broke. The wind was fo heavy, as to bring our fhip's lee-gun- wale under water j but on the mart's breaking fhe righted ; a hard gale from the weft immediately followed, and we brought-to under mizen and main-fail till feven o'clock the next morning. At 8° 44' 15", our longitude by time-keeper was 192° 44', lati- tude 50° 36' 7", variation' 1 7° 35' eaft^ making a difference of the fhip's reckoned longitude of five degrees. She being fo much vhead, which, of courfe, induced us to keep a fharp look-out, and uff ti,e greateft caution, contrary winds continuing, we could viidke but little way by plying to windward. The loth Septem- ber, in latitude 49° 9', and longitude by time-keeper 186'^ 40', we faw great flocks of birds flying to the fouth. The tji 2o6 ACCOUNT OK AN F.XPKDITION I The 14th and 15th wc liad hard gales of wind weft and weft north-weft, and rainy weather ; the iCth in the morning we got a fight of the fun ; our timc-kccpcr gave the longitude 181° 24' 30", latitude 49^" i' 48", making a difference in our ftiip's reckon- ing of fcven degrees in longitude, and ten miles in latitude. Dur- ing the 24 hours we faw feveral indications of land being near ; as weeds, birds, &cc. The 17th, calms and baflling winds, with mifty weather : a frefli eaftcrly breeze fuccceded for about 20 houis ; our longitude in the morning of the 18th was, by time- keeper, 179^ 22', latitude 48^ 30' ; the IJay of Avatftia bearing north 6^° ^s' weft, diftance 6^^ miles. We were now without bread, and had but very little water ; fo that we (horiencd the ration of the latter, and gave a fuflleient allowance of peafe and butter, all hands voluntarily rcjeding lalt meat. A hard gale from the weft brought us to under mizcn and main-fail for 24 hours. The 2ift September, at nine A. M , we obtained fome diftances of the fun and moon, which gave the longitude 178^ 46' 45'. At noon our latitude obferved was 49° 12' 25"* which differed nearly eight degrees from our fliip's reckoning : however, both were kept in the Captain's journal, and our fituation was very uncertain. The 23d, one of the Aleutes taken on board at Oonalaflika cut his throat ; but not fo effl'dually as to caufe his immediate death : his companions faid, it was owing to his extreme grief on hearing that he muft go to Kamtftiatka. Hard gales of wind continued from the weft, with hazy and mifty weather, till the 24th in the morning, when we had calms and variable light airs. At iix this morning we faw land bearing north and weft, and a conical mountain to the north- weft, diftant about 15 leagues, which i fuppoled to be tlie eaftern point TO THE EASTP.RN OCEAN, &c. 207 point of Amtfliiika. At eight A. M. our longitude was, by tiine- kecpcr, 180^ 44' 45, latitude 50' 50' 10". The 25th we law an ifland, and the lame illand the 26th ; for fcaut winds prevented our making much licad-wny. The land that we law on the 24th May, on our outward pallagc, was lb ftrongly iinprclled on my mind, that I had no doubt of its being the very fame that we now faw ; namely, the illand of Amtdiitka above mentioned. At that time our longitude, by dead reckoning, was 179" 00', and our latitude 51° 18'. Our obfervcd longitude, by time-keeper, was, the 25th September, lyQ'' 1 1' 45", latitude 50'^ 49' ; but the haze made the land appear much nearer than it was ; and the fog, hiding it, prevented our afccrtaining its diftance by correfpondent bearings. The fliip's reckoning fllll dlfTerlng fo materially from that of the time-keeper, induced Captain Billings to rcjetfl this method of afccrtaining the longitude ; but he continued occafionally to take the fu a o altitude, without making any minutes in the journal j doubting every obfervation, except the meridian altitude for the latitude. His uncertainty naturally increafcd that of others. To elucidate this obfervation, I fliall take the liberty of tranflat- ing, from the journal of one of our officers, his remark on the land feen the 25th. " Saw land, which fuppofe either Copper or Bering's ifland." I fliall leave my readers to form their own conjectures. We were now at very fliort allowance of water; and the opinion of all hands on board was taken, whether we fliould feek anchorage, and take in a frcfh fupply. The misfor- tunes of Captain Bering in 1741 were fo ftrong in the minds of all the failors, that tliey declared they would rather riik (larving on board than attempt to land on this ifland. \Vk 20H ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION We continued a north-weft courfe till the 3d Odobcr at noon, when our obferved latitude was 52° 16' 14". By our reckoning, wc had palTcd Sheeponfkoi Nofs 50 miles, and were only 40 miles from the Bay of Avatflia from our bearings by Captain Cook's chart. The 5th October we got an obfervation of the fun and moon's diftance, at 3^ 32' 21" apparent time ; which made the longitude 167^ 12' 22", latitude ji'^ 57' ; by our reckoning, we were in longitude 157^, nearly acrofs the land of Kamtfliatka. Odlobcr the 10th, at noon, the haze clearing a little, difcovered over our ftarboard-quartcr Sheponfkoi Nofs, north-eaft 2 2^^, dif- tance 20 miles; latitude obferved, 52"* 5:,' 3.'/' ; and fliortly al- ter we faw the mouth of the Bay of AvatHia ; but contrary winds and calms prevented our getting into the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul till the niorning of the 14th, at which time numbers of our crew were infeded with the fcurvy ; but ail perfectly re- covered after they had been a few days on fliorc. Our Dodor's journal contained the following remarks : " It was only towards *• the end of the voyage, when our bread was out, and we were " reduced to a fliort allowance of water, that the fcurvy made its " appearance. At this time pcafc and grits boiled to a tliick con- *• fiftcncy in a fmall quantity of water, and buttered, were fub- " llituted for faltcd provifions. The lymptoms were, coftive- *' nefs, a breakinc; out, with itc 't>'> and nofe, pains in the legs, and Ibnie were fwollen. Upon our arrival, numbers had pains in their joints, with extreme laffitude, flufliing heat, dry cough, and an opprellion of the " breaft : bleeding I'paringly, thin drink, and frcfli liih, reftored " all hands in a very fliort time. (( {( t( The TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, kc. 20<) *' The men employed in filling the water caflcs at Oonalafl\ka " got cramps in their feet and legs, flulhing heat and violent: " head-ache, which was cured by adminiftering fiidorifics." I think this arofe folely from the carelefTnefs of the men, in going with wet feet. The water was a colleQion of melted fnow, very- cold. The weather hazy and damp. At nights, 2, 3, and 4* above the freezing point, and at noon only 6, 7, and S''. We joined here the reft of our company, who arrived during the fummer from Ochotfk all in good health. I fear that my account of our return from the coaft of America will have feemed tirefome to fome of my readers ; although I have been as concife as poffible. One remark, at ieaft, I think it ne- ceflary to make; namely, that I am neither failor nor aftronomer; nor knew aught of either of the fcienccs until I embarked on the expedition. ed he £e CHAP. 210 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION CHAP. XVI. Mr. Pribiihff appointed to the Sturmans place ^ vacant by the Death of Mr. Bronnikoff ; he goes in fearch of an JJland. — Difcovers one which he names St. George'' s I/land^ and another ^ to which he gives the name of St. Pan/'s. — Arrival and generous Behaviour of an Enemy's Ship^ the Mercury^ Captain Coxe ; and the AJloU' ifloment of the Ruffian Settlers. — The Rujfan Secretary put in Irons and fen t to Irkutjky onfufpicion of improper Correfpondence. — Leave St. Peter and St. Paul. — Reach Bering's Ifland^ and nar- rowly efcape a Rocky Point. — Copper IJland. — The I/lands of Attoo and Agatto. — Semitfb. — Buldyr. — Kyjha. — A Clufer of J/lands. — Drefs and Amufements of the Inhabitants. — Two Na- tives of thefe Iflands^ who had been Attendants on Captain Bil- lingSy put on Jhore. — Leave Tanaga^ and after paffing feveral Cluflers of Mountainous Iflands^ arrive at Oonalafoka, UuR firfl bufinefs was, to unload and lay up our fhip for the winter ; then to dlfpatch our fhip-builder with neceiTary hands to Neizflini, Kamtfnatka, to build a confort for the Slava Ruffie, to accompany our next year's adventures. The materials for this purpofe arrived with the tranfport vefTel from Ochotfk. The vacant fturman's place, occafioned by the death of Mr. Bronnikoff at Ochotfk, was fupplied by Mr. Pribu- lofF, who accompanied a trader's vefTel three years back on the part of Government to colled tribute. At the fame time he took charge TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, Sec. 211 charge of the vcfTel as commander, on the part of the trading company ; for which he received a fhare in the profits of the voyage. He made Oonalaflika, and from his former obfervations that numbers of Tea animals, particularly young kotic, came from the north in the autumn, at the commencement of fevere weatlier, he had formed a conjedure, that fome unknov/n ifland lay at no great diftance in that dircdion ; and therefore rcfolved, vvitiiout lofing time, to take on bo .rd as rnrny iflandcrs as he could obtain, with their fmall cano:s an ' arms, and be convinced of the cer- tainty or uncertainty of hi? luppolition. Twenty-four hours after his departure from the ifland of Oona- laflika, lie difcovered land. The fouthern and weflcrn parts are furrounded by rocks ; but the north is eafy of approach, and af- fords good anchorage in a commodious bay for fmall veflels, not drawing above eight or nine feet water. The whole ifland is volcanic, defliitute of inhabitants, and only produces the bulbs, plants, and berries, which are to be met with on all the Aleutan iflands. They found the low lands and the furrounding rocks covered with fea animals, particularly the urfine feal (kotic), and fea-lion (fivutflia) ; and with the fkins of thefe animals they nearly loaded their veflel. PribulofF called this St. George's Ifland ; and obferving another ifland to the north, at the diftance of 44 miles, he went '■hither in a large baidar, accou panicd bv a number of Aleutes. This ifland is much fmaller than that of St. George, and he named i. St. Paul's: this, as well as the former, was the retreat of immenle herds of Teals. On the ifland of St. George they pafled the winter, and found the inland parts over- run with foxes, which aflbrdcd them a profitable chafe. It alfo abounded with the tufks of the walrofs, which tliey [)!':kcd up on the ftiores. 21 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION La(l autamn lie returned to Oonalaflika, v/licrc he paillcl tlie \v Inter. A European vcill'l put into the bay of Udagha, which rjr. Piibuloff vilited : it was tiie Mercury, Captain Co>:c, cupper- l)Ottomed, and mounting fixtecn guns. From this veflel, wiilch lie laid had only two mafts, he received intelhgc;i:c of the war between Rullia and Sweden. The Captain was incjuifitive about tiic Rufiian eftabliflimeiits, their force, and fliipping: to explain wliich, PribulofF took the Captain and his officers to their habita- tions, but could not tioat them with any thing except farantia, berries, the dried meat of the fea-lion, and fiih, without bread. They cxpreffed aflonifliment at every thing they faw, bat inoft at their manner of living, »Scc. C n their return to their own ihip, they fent Pribuloff a fiipply of bread, brandy, and other ne- ccllaries, foinc articles of drcfs, and a quadrant, as prelents ; and a few days after left the ifland. Nothing in the world can ailonilli a Ruffian more than difui- tereftcd liberality, or any kindnefs without fomc profped: of fu- ture benefit. Greatnefs of foul h applied to every ini'n who is jufr, and grants his fervants fomc few indulgences; every thing beyond this is called folly, and is fiire to be impofed upon : nor have they any fentiment of feeling, except it be excited by blows. Taking this for the ruling character of the Rulfian hunters, it will be ca'V to concLive the aflonilhnient of PrilnilolT and his com- panions at the liberality of Mr. Coxc : but how niUL.h was their a maze men:: increafed, when, on tiicir retur.iin;,^ to Ochotik, they v.'.rc irifornicd, diai this very Captain commanded an enemy's il'ip, a:.'! aiSiualiy had a Swcdilh commiuion to deilroy the Rui- iian er*,r,>ii.fhmtnt3 ' They could 'loi i;na;;ine v^•''.at inducement i.c ^.rSid ;;ave to flicw tlicm any mercy, inueli lels to heap kmcl- ncfles TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, .^c. ""'3 nefTcs upon them. PrilnilolF hhnfLlf laul, " Thev had every tlihu^ " and faw that we liad nothln^, worth their taking; tlierefore " tliey made us prcfcnts ; for ihcy were alhamcd to be enemies *' to Inch poor wretches *." I am inclined to tliiiik tliat \\vi conjccl.urcs were juft ; and I feel myfelf interelled in relating this anecdote, which, in my opinion, docs fo mucli credit to an European failor, of whatever nation he may he. Nothing material liapnened this winter, the greatefl: part of which we paflcd at i')o'ihnIretnc, receiving frequent inVelligcncc of the progrefs at Neizihni under the dlrcdlon of Captain Hall, who acqnaintcd w that his veiVcl Vv'onld he ready to put to fea as foon as t!ie river Kaintfiiatka fiiould be free of ice. One circum- ftance, however, I think it neceilary to mention. Tiie Ruilian fecrctary, VafTilcy Diakonoff, having given diffatisfaQIon to Cap- tain Billings, and being thought to have entered Into a private cor- rcfpondencc with INIr. SlichkofT, and difclofcd fome fecrets of the expedition, was nut In irons and fent to Irkutik, to anfwer for his condu;: a very naiuval conclii- llon of I'rihcuifT. Ci;i\K,'i -vas t!io ci nin-iandti of tl'.c liutuing part'-'s on iliori; ; ai.d lie nlfo received fcvcral rncftr.lj i"to:n tin. Mercury. Wc 2t4 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION We paffed the winter in excnrfions of plcafure, and in dancing and card patties, chiefly at Bolflioiretflc, where the luxuries of life are more plentiful than in the harhour of St. Peter and St. Paul. The froft was fometimes very fevere, and we had for a few hours 21^ helow the freezing point of Reaumur. Two or three earthquakes happened about the neighbourhood of Neizfhni ; but, except a flight fhock on the 21ft November at noon, none of thcin reached the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. Tn the beginning of the month of April 1791, all hands repaired to the harbour, Inftrudtions were fent to Captain Hall (to whom the command of the fecond vcffel was allotted as fenior officer), to be at Bering's ifland by the 25th May ; and if he did not ilnd us, to wait till the 30th : we alfo were to wait till the 30th for his veflTel, if we arrived earlier. In cafe we ihould not meet there at all, ihe fecond place of rendezvous was appointed at Oonalalhka. We took in a good fupply of water, rolling the cafks over the ice of the harbour to the fhip. We alfo took a greater quantity of provifions than in the preceding voyage ; though the falted meat was lefs nourifhing, having lain fo much longer in the cafks. The different meflfes took a good flock of dried and pickled falmon, berries, wild onions, &c. By the ift of May the bay of Avatfka was clear of Ice, and not before, owing to the feverity of the winter : but the inner har- bour of St. Peter and St. Paul remained frozen up. On 11 TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 215 On the 8th, we broke the ice of the harbour to make a paflagc for the fhip, and hauled her into the bay. The thermometer ftood at 2° to 4° of heat, the wind blowing right againft us till the 13th, when it fell calm. We now took the fmithy and all hands on board, and hauled off the battery point. Baffling light airs detained us till Friday the i6th, at four o'clock in the morn- ing, when we weighed anchor with a gentle breeze from the north, and faluted the battery with feven guns, which was re- turned with an equal number. The wind falling fcant, and fhift- ing to fouth-weft, with a contrary current, we made but little headway, and caft anchor at four P. M. in the mouth of the bay, the lighthoufe bearing north-eaft 86°, diftant about one mile. The next morning a moderate breeze fprung up from the eaft, which brought with it a very thick fog. The tide fetting againft us to the weft, at three knots and a half, our fliip drove unob- ferved, and we difcovered that we had a flat ftone bottom at twelve fathom. We drove very near the fouth-weft rocky Ihore, fent a kedge to the north-eaft into good anchorage, weighed an- chor, and hauled a-head.. At ten A. M. a gentle breeze fpringing up from fouth, we took in our kedge, and ftooc! about two knotr north noith-weft, when, coming to a good bottom, we brought up with our beft bower. At noon we obferved the latitude 52° SS' i^"- All the 1 8th we had variable light airs, with cloudy and hazy weather. The Kamtfliadals that were out among the rocky iflands, feeking eggs, brought us a very confiderable fupply, as iJfo q£ fea-fowl. Monday, the iQth May, we weighed anchor at four A. M. with a gentle weft fouth-weft breeze, ftood out of the bay of Avatiha, 2\6 ACCOTTNT or' A>; F.ZPKDITION Avatllia, and lioilled our boats on i)Oiiri], pjoing cafl: by north at three knots. At noon, our boiiriu;;:'^ were Povorotuoi Muis (Cook's Cape Gaveria), foutli-vveil 23" V">' ; ViHuitflicnvoi Peak (Pani- tounka Sopka) fouth-vvcll 7- ' ; 11 'ihtl^oufe, by true conipafs, nortli-wefl 58 '23', diflant Icveii miles and a baH"; latltu le of fhip's })lace oblerved 52^ 49', lon^'fitude 158' §6^ variation one hali point call;, from whence we took our departure, and con- tinued our eourlb all day. Ou tlie 2otb we law hnmenfe numbers of grampuOes, por- nolfes, and many whales. We had a frefli gale from the north, hauled the wind, and kept a courfe call north-eafl., under cloie- reefed top-fails. In the afternoon, moderate wind. The 21(1, .".r noon, latitude ^}'^ 9', longitude 16 1° 39'. Sheponfkoi Cape bore due weft, dift.ant about fifteen leagues. I make this cape ia latitude i^^"^ 9', longitude 160° 3', variation three-fourths of a point eaft. Variable light winds, and calms, prevented our making much head-way till Saturday the 24th ; when, early in tlae morn- ing, a breeze fprung up from the fouth-weft, and we failed north at the rate of fix knots. At noon our obferved latitude was 54° 14', correded longitude 162" 30'. The eaftern extremity of KronotjHcoi Cape bore north 2° 30' weft. In the evening the breeze died away, and calms and light airs followed till the morn- ing of the 27th, when we had a gentle breeze from the weft fouth-weft. At noon our latitude obferved was 54*^ 45' 22", lon- gitude 165° 36'. At three P. M. faw Bering's ifland, the fouth- weft point of which bore north-eaft, the fouth-eaft extremity north-eaft 73°. At eight P. M. the wind freftiened, with hazy weather, and fqually ; the land was about four miles to leeward, and a detached rock off the north-weft extremity a-head of us. Mr. BikofT, who had the watch, firft difcovercd the dangerous 6 fituation ; TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 21?. fituatlon ; and it was owing to his prcfcncc of mind, in immedi- ately crouding all the fail the lliip could carry, that wc weathered this rock, at not the fliip's length from it, carrying her gunwale nearly under water. Having cleared this point at eleven P, M. wc flood away more large, with very hazy weather. This ifland's fouth extremity bears by true compafs from the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul north-call 67^, its dillance 192 niilcs, trending north-wefl: 35°, forty miles. The weft fide of the iHund Is mountainous, and covered with fnovv; the fummits were hid in the haze and fog. The north point is low land, free of fiiow. Here are two bays where merchants' galliots whiter ; but they are Ihoal, dangerous of approach, and expofed to the north winds. A finall rivulet runs into each of them, in which tran- fparent white pebbles are found ; and fometlmes, after a hard gale of wind from the north, fmall pieces of native copper are caft on the Azores. The north point is in latitude 55'' 25', long!-, tude i6G° 15'. The 2Sth, at noon, our latitude was ^5" 14' 23", corredetj longitude 166" 50'. At two P. M. the fun and moon's diftance gave the longitude 166° 52' 45", which perfedly agreed with our fliip's reckoning : variation one point eafl;. The wind blowing frelli from tlie fouth-wcil, wc could not attempt to enter the bay to feck for tlie fecond veflel j and it was refolved to profecute our voyage to Oonalafhka. rhe 29th, at three o'clock in the morninc^, being very foggy, we faw Copper ifland aftcrn of us ; fo that wc mufl nave pafTed it very clofe Indeed. Our courfe was call: fouth-eaO:, the wind J. Ff blowing 2id ACCOUNT OF \M EXPEDITION blowing frefli from the fouth-vvcfl. Owing to thick weather, wc could only oblbrvc lluit Copper iflancl h mountainous, hearing from Bering':- Ularid'?, fouth point north-cad 6s°y dirtant 27 miles, trending (buih-cin: Ci°, twenty-live miles: rocks between the Iflands, and cff their northern extremities. At iivc P. M. the flui and moon's diltance proved our longitude 169" o' 15", lati- tude 54" 14'. In the evening the wind d^jd away. The jOth, our latitude at noon was 53° 43', longitude 170' 12'. At feven P. M. we faw land, a lofty mv intain covered with fnow, fouth-eaft 30", which was foon hid by the haze and dark- nefs of the night. Light airs all night and the next day, with a coafiderable fwcU from the fouth. Hazy weather prevented our feeing the land again till Wednefday the 4th June at three A. M. when the weft extremity of Attoo bore north, diftant 13 miles, and the eaftern point north- eaft 72°. Going eaft north-eaft at two knots, with little wind from the weft-north -weft, at noon latitude by account 52" 32', longitude 172" 15', variation one and one-fourth point eaft. At four P. M. the weft of Attoo bore north-weft 31° 30', Agattoo's north-weft point, north-eaft 60°. We threw the fliip in the wind, and got foundings with 75 fathoms, ftony bottom. The Ifland of Attoo is mountainous and covered with fnow. Its weftern end bears by true compafs from the fouth of Bering's ifland fouth 61" eaft, 215 miles diftant: its diredion eaft and weft about 60 miles. Detached rocks are oiF the weft point j and its fouth fide has feveral opening, appearing like coves, but expofed to the fouth. From the eaft of Attoo to the weft of Agattoo the diftance is 20 miles fouth-eaft one-fourth eaft, trend- ing a ir I. St at n d re >'. 75 w. nd t; »ut of id- ng U.' K; IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. 1.0 I.I 1.25 1.4 12.5 22 2.0 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation S V ■^ % v <^* i.<^ -%^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 %^ ^ "^i \ ii H ■^ t; I n1 TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &:c. 219 ing eaft about 16 miles. Here alfo appear fome openings, but the entrances are barred by a reef of rocks. The weft extremity- is low land gradually afcending. Eight miles from the point is a very lofty mountain, the top of which was hid in the clouds, as was alfo the higher land towards the eaft. Ten miles north is the little ifland of Semitfli, and off the eaftern point is a ftill fmaller ifland. 'il We kept an eafterly courfe ; and at noon of the 5th our ob- ferved latitude was 52^ 10' 2,5", correded longitude 174° 17', with a very hazy horizon. At two P. M. we faw Buldyr, north- caft by north one-half eaft : fliortly after we had rainy and thick weather. Buldyr bears by true compafs from the ifland of Agat- too north-eaft 88°, diftant 70 miles. This is an oval rock, very lofty, fix miles from north to fouth, and four miles acrofs. Off the eaft and weft points are detached rocks, to the weft they extend to a confiderable diftance. ■ Vi The 6th, at three o'clock in the morning, we faw the ifland of Kyfka to the fouth-eaft, a detached rock fouth-eaft 64°, and fhaped our courfe through the ftraits, to get to the north of the iflands. Thefe ftraits are 64 m-les wide. The north point of Kyflca bears eaft from the fouth point of Buldyr ; its direction foiith by eaft, and extent 26 miles, terminating in a point of moderate height, and 20 miles acrofs in the wideft part : there is fome low land about the eaft extremity, and it contains many rocks. At noon our latitude by account was 52° 23' 20", longitude 177% when we rofe aclufter of iflands; the moft weftern of which F f 2 ia ' I 120 ACCOUNr OF AN EXPEDITION is called SIgoola, 14 miles eafl: of Kyfka. This is ncar'y round, and nine iralcs in circumference. Krifley ifland is about an equal diilaiue from Kyfka to the fouth-eafl:, fmall and rocky. The illand oi' Aintlhllka lies about eif:^ht miles caft north- eaft of Kriffey, and trends caft neariy 60 miles in extent. It has an expofcd bay to the fouth ; the north fiJe is acccfllble for boats ; but the clufter of illands on this fide render its approach by vefTels Impoffihie. Off its eaftcrn extremity, due north, at the diftance of 28 miles, is the ifland Semi Sopeflmoi, or Seven Peaks, trend- ing eaft and weft 22 miles. The fog, however, foon hid thefc iflands from our fight. Thick weather prevented our feeing land till the 9th, when, at noon, the fun broke through the haze, and we fuddenly favv the land over the ilarboard fore-yard arm, appearing clofe to the fhip : a tremendous barren mountain ftreaked with fnow imme- diately difcovered its bafe, bearing from north-eafl 62° to fouth- eaft 46 ', diflant in the nearefl place about half a mile (but no foundings with 100 fathom line); a perpendicular rock. The fun's altitude in the haze was 61° 10', which gave the latitude 52* 5' 21"; by fhip's reckoning 52° 6' J ' itude 180° 22'; varia- tion one point and a half eaft. The v, :.u blew pretty frefh from the north ;, and, as it was impoflible to weather its point, we Ihaped our courfe fouth-eafl ^y fouth. At firft we took the rock for the Volcano Gorelloi ; but foon difcovered it to be the north- wefl extremity of Tanaga, which is formed by an uneven-topped volcano, appearing like a clufter of mountains. One terminates in a conical point, of extreme height, emitting fometiraes a co- lumn of fmoke. They are all covered with fnow, which def- cends in ridges to below the middle of the mountain, but much darkened TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 221 darlcened by the quantity of aflies upon k. This mountain oc- cupies a fpace of eight miles fouth, and fix miles eaft by north. South fouth-weft eight mile? from the north weft extremity of the ifland, the high land terminates by a projecting rocky cape, (har- pened by feveral detached needle rocks, behind which we thought there might be good anchorage. Captain SaretfhefF volunteered to explore, and went in the evening in the long-boat with this intent. We ftood off and on to wait his return ; a thick fog, however, fell upon us, which continued till the next day at noon. During this time we very frequently experienced ftrong rippling tides in various diredions, but chiefly fouth and fouth-eaft. Our diftrance was about one mile from (hore, and we faw the long- boat pulling on board, which foon arrived. Mr. Saretlheff found pretty good anchorage fix miles fouth fouth-weft behind the Beedle rocks ; our obferved latitude at noon was 5 1" ^6' 3", one mile eaft of the neareft land. It falling calm, we towed into the bay, and came to anchor at fix P. M. ; Gorelloi Volcano bore weft north-weft, diftant 22 miles. In the fog yefterday we muft have pafled this mountain very clofe indeed. We did not fee the top of this volcano on account of the clouds refting upon it j but the fh ores are very fteep, and there is no accefs, except in very calm weather, on the fouth-weft part for boats ; its bearing from Kriffey ifland fouth 81° eaft, diftant 107 miles, fix miles from north to fouth, and three miles from eaft to weft. I have defcribcd the north-weft part of Tanaga to the fpiral rocks trending fouth fouth-weft eight miles ; thefe rocks form the north bbunds of a ftnall bafin, in which we came to anchor in latitude 51° 52 , and longitude 180' 25'. It is about two miles and a half in circumfe- rence, with a fandy bottom feven fathom ; and, at the head of the inlet, is a very convenient watering-place j it is, however, expofed to the north-weft winds. From i 1 I 1 ' » h i tl, 3:2 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDiriON fe I From this place tlie land trends weft by fouth eight miles, \ovf and very verdant j tennlnaling in a fandy cape, from whence the ifland ftretchcs away fouth by weft 15 miles ; all, except the north, is low land, with frefh water lakes ; but intcrfperfed with fome rifing grounds, near which are the defolated dwellings of the former inhabitants. We found the earthen habitations in one place contain about 20 women, and only a few men, either old or very infirm, which conftitutes the prefent population of the ifland, exckifivc of a few children. The male inhabitants had been taken by Luchanin's company of hunters to affift them in the chafe ; and what induced the remainder to fuppofe that it ■was not the intention of Luchanin that they fliould ever return, but form an eftablifliment perhaps on the coaft of America (which they call Kanaifki Land), was, that he had alfo taken as many women with him as he could poffibly ftow away in his galliot. We learnt, however, from thefe remaining inhabitants, that their companions did not go voluntarily. This ifland was formerly very well inhabited ; but the Ruflians have almoft depopulated it, which is completely the cafe with thofe to the weft. The inhabitants drefs exadlly like thofe at Oonalaflika ; but the women have not fo many ornaments. They fpeak different dia- ledts of the fame language as at the above-mentioned ifland. Their dances and diverfions, however, feem different. They are more graceful in their motion, extremely modeft in all their ac- tions ; and quite unlike all other favages that I have fQen, by being free from lafcivicufnefs. Young men amufe themfelves with jumping on the fkin of a large fea-lion, held in the air by four or fix men. They leap and lighten upon their feet, and by degrees are thrown up to an immenfe height : when they are tired they leap off upon the ground. I attempted to leap in this manner, I "but vl TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 223 but could not fucceed ; for the fuddcn jerk either caufc! my knees to bend, or elfe threw me out of the centre; and they explained the caufe by telling me, that I looked upon the fkin, whereas I ought to keep my body eres between Ooninak ami Oonal alhk.i, ai\«.l opened 'I'lhcrneflki bay foulli-eall i()\ Upon leein)'; land ahead, hauled the wind and itood away north. At ten P. M. being about three mile* from the Ihore of C)onala(hka, we fent the b lir to examine the toall, whieh was hiil from our light in the lia/.c, and Hood ofl- and-on all night. The next morning, Wednefday, the ajih June, at four A. M. with a gentle bree/.e from the well, being well in with the land, feveral natives eame on board, under whofe pilot- age wc (looil into the bay of Anuiknak ; and at three I'. M. eainc to anchor in the balin of llluluk, about 20 fathom from the dwell- ings that bear this name, and Ihortly after fcnt the obfervatory ou fliore. Captain Hall was not yet arrived : a circumAancc rather imac- countable to us, except on the fuppofition that he eould not get fo foon ready to leave Kamtlhatka as be expeiled. CHAP. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. itg CHAP. XVII. Qiptaln n'ltlhi^s ahiwJ;cntle fouth- wcft breeze ; but ihorlly after a calm coinjKlled us a Iccond time to come to anchor in 18 fathoms in the Bay of Ainoknalc, over a fine fandy bottom. At two V. M. a gentle brcc/.c I'prang up from the fouth fonth-cad ; which frelhcning, at three wc got under weigh, and flood out of the Bay of Amoknak, at the mouth of which the Ihip's latitude, by bearings from the obfcrvations on Cliore, was 54" 8', longitude 193° 17' call from Greenwich ; va- riation of the compafs two points call ; the volcano on Acutan bearing north-cad G2", Oonalgi fouth-cad 73". We foon after law Akoona to the north-cad. One of the natives here overtook us, and, winding to accompany us, was taken on board w^llh his fmall baidar. At eight P. M. dood away north-well, with a I'lcfli fouth-cad breeze and foggy weather. At midnight the wind veered to north-well, and loon after increal'cd to a gale, with Hy- ing clouds. At noon, our oM'crvcd latitude was 54'^ 59' 38", corrcdcd longitude 193' 1'. In the afternoon the wind became more moderate. By noon of the lotli we had run 29 miles only, north-weft 3^ 57'. In the fure-pait of the day, I, begged Mr. Sarctllicd* to heave TO nil': i;:AsrL;KN oci-an, ice. 211 ,'Cll to avc heave tlic lead, upon ii I'lippolitioii that lie would get foundings, which he dill at 80 fi\(lu)in8, nuid aiul land, and in the evening at 75 fathoniH. It had been very ha/y all day, and contiiuied fo all the next day, with litllc wind at north north-well, and wcfl: by norih. At luionof the nth we law fevcral herds of fea-lion^ fporiing,fea-l)irds, and weeds floalinj.;. Om* 24hoin's rtni wan north- well 49^ 20', 75 miles. i''of.^p;y and milly weather continiied all the afternoon. At night, having a frclh brce/c fouth by well, wc clofc-ix (.-fed our top-failo, and, in li()|)cs of feeing in the morning the illanils difcovered by I'rebuiiofI', laid-to with the niain-top- faii to the malt. Saturday the 12th, early in the morning, wc ri,:;hteil laila, Rood to well north-well, and law land in the fog, l)caring north north-well. At noon our latitude, by account, was 56" 5q', longi'Jide iSy^ 45', when the lijiith extremity of St. George's Illaiid bore fouth-eall 57", dillant 16 miles; and foon after we faw the illand of St. Paul. Thefe illands appear hilly, though not monutainou8 j many vallics arc difccmiblc, covered wiih green plants, Inch as are to be met with on all the Alcutan ilLands ; but there is not a tree or a flirub upon tljc ifland, except fome low berry-bearing buflies from 12 to 16 inches high. A reef of rocks off the fouth and fouth-wefl fides of tlie illands ex- tends about three miles j fome of them arc difcovered by the breakers, while others are confidcrably above water. They arc not furnillied with any harbour ; but to the north-eafl arc bays Ihallow and expofed, which, however, bad as they are, afford a landing place to the himters, whole firll bulinefs is, to fecure their veflels by hauling them on Ihore. The well extremity of the ifland of St- George bears, by true compafs, from the north point of Oonalaflika north 39' well, dillant 190 miles, trending cafl by north, onc-l.rvlf call 19 miles, and is about eight miles Vv^ide. Luchanin's company are now here ; but by the accounts of the H h native i34 ACCOUMt OF AN EXPEDITION native on board, and of others with whom we fpoke at Oona- lalhka, they get but few animals. Drift wood is alfo fcarce, which was plenty at the time when PribuilofF firft difcovered thcfe iPands. This company of hunters have alfo a few hands with them from Oonalaflika. ' .li ■•' <' i» •t!. 1 ) t ; J • ■1 'U At eight P. M. the fog hid the land : we had a moderate breeze from the ealt fouth-eaft, and om courfe was north-weft one-half weft, allowing two points ; variation eaft. •ill J.'' ' jl!ii Sunday the 1 3th July, in the fore-part of the day, we had frefli wind eaft fouth-eaft, and were going under an eafy fail north- weft at fix knots. At noon very hazy ; latitude by account 58* 38', longitude 188° 28'. The afternoon was hazy and mifty ; and at four P. M. we had a moderate fouth wind, which veered at feven P. M. to fouth-weft. Wc were fteering north-weft and bv north, but, on account of night approaching, flackened fail. 'i. •' Ji On the 14th we had a moderate fouth fouth-weft breeze, with haz'y and foggy weather, and kept our north-weft courfe. At feven A. M. we faw in the haze land to the north-eaft, which we foon after difcovered to be Cook's Pinnacle Ifland, and ftood in fo;- it north by eaft. At eight, the wind veering to fouth fouth- eaft, we faw a rock in the fog right a-head, fo wore fhip, and fteered two knots fouth-weft one-half weft, when we again re- fumed our former courfe. At ten A. M. faw Gore's ifland a-head, and foon after obfervcd that it extended confiderably weft of the north. At noon, the meridian altitude in the haze gave the lati- tude 60° 30' 50", longitude correded 187° 15'. Our diftance was now about two miles from the fouth-eaft extremity of the 1 md, trending north-weft 61'^, We ranged along the whole of I the a- e, ds alf th- y; red md nth. At we i in ith- and re- ead, ■ the lati- ance the leof the '■'A ^1 i I \ ^n: 5 r,, -f I k\ M «* .8 A«* 1. > m- .. m.. iif \, I'if'j^* ^ 't'V ' if ^ -^^ TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. ^ tlie foutli-weft fide of the ifland at the diftance above mentioned ; and obferved, that the land was moderately high, and that fnow lay upon many of the higher monntalns, the fummits of which were hid in the fog. There were many bays, backed by low land, and fome of them may, probably, afford good anchorage. The capes confifted of projecting promontories, with detached rocks extend- ing out from 50 to 1 00 fathom. The vallies appeared very ver- dant ; but the high land was barren and rocky. The extent of the ifland is 26 miles. Pinnacle Ifland lies due fouth at the dif- tance of eight miles, and is a remarkably barren fock, replete with lofty pinnacles, like Hacks of chimneys, with detached rocks off It in every direction. '^ ^ ' ' • -. ; : 1 • i ■ At the diflance of four miles from the fouth-wefl: extremity of Gore's ifland, in a direction weft by north, is another rocky ifland trending fix miles north north-weft. At four P. M. wc entered thefe ftraits, with foundings at 12 fathom, over a fine fandy bottom. With a view of feeing whether the iflands were Inhabited or not, we came to anchor in the mid-channel, lowered our jolly-boat and baidar, and went afliore on the weftern ifland. We found a good landing-place in a fmall bight behind a detached rock, which bore due weft from the veflel ; the beach extending about 10 fathom from the perpendicular rocky fliore, covered with drift-wood, the bones and tuflcs of the walrofs or morzfli, the bones of whales, the back-bone, with ribs adhering to it, of fome large animal (I fuppofe the white bear), and fragments of rocks ; agates, and other pebbles, &:c. The compofition of the ifland feemed to be mountainsf of jafper, fome green and red, but in general yellow, veined with tranfparent ftone like calcedoni. I afcended one of the narrow chafins in the rock to the top, which I found level, covered with mofs, and fome fuch low plants as I Hh2 had i I «3^ ACCOUNT OF AN EXPmiTION had feen on the borders of the Icy Sea ; foxes were numerous, ©f the hlack, red, and hhie (or ardic) Ipccies. There appeared to me to be no earth upon die ifland, except the dang of animals, and of myriads of fca-birds, whofe Ihrill notes almoft prevented our hearing each other fpeak : thefe confifted of every fpecica that we had feen on the coaft of Kamtftiaika, and all the Aleu- tan iflands. I am inclined to think, that the birds, their eggs, and the fea animals cad on (hore, conftitute the chief food oi the foxes in the fummer ; and that early in the winter the ftraits freeze over, when they pafs to the oppofite ifland, which, from the vertlant appearance of the low lands, fecms likely to afford them edible roots for their fupport during a long winter. I did not obferve any fragments of fliells of any kind on the beach, nor the lead traces of any inhabitants. This ifland is about fix miles from north to fouth ; and, to judge from appearances, it is nearly fquare in its form. The oppofite ifland is about 14 miles from north to fouth ; the (hores everywhere broken and uneven, forming bays, bound- ed by projecting lugged cliffs, and detached pinnacle rocks* Several white bears fwam round the fhip while we were at anchor, and three of them made many attempts to get up the fliip's fide ; but at length they all fwam to the large ifland. Cap- tain Cook did not obferve thefe flraits> but thought the whole was one ifland. At midnight got under weigh, and on the 15th, with a gentle fouth fouth-weft breeze, kept a northern courfe. Our foundings were now never more than 40 fathoms, having gradually decreafed to that from 100 miles north of Oonalafhka, where we had 80 fathoms. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. ^27 fathoms. At noon we had hazy and foggy weather j latitude, by account, 6i° 6, longitude 187" 9'. On tlie 16th, wind and weather continuing, we faw no land, and our foundings had gradually decrcafed by noon to 26 fa- thom, fine fand. The laft 24 hours run was 106 miles north- caft 27*^ 7, making our latitude 62 39, longitude 188' 54. In the afternoon fteered noiih one-half weft. The evening being dark and mifty, we l>aulod the wind, the Ihip's head being weft fouth-wcft with a gentle fouth breeze, to keep clear of Gierke's Ifland. Our foundings at midnight were 24 fathom, fand and fmall ftoneSr July 17. Wind fouth-eaft by fouth, very foggy and mifty weather. At two A. M. we rtood to the north. Our foundings decreafed to 15 fathom*; Ihingles; and many birds were flying about the (hip. At fix A. M. foundings 12, 1.1, 10 fathoms, when we fuddenly got the bottom with fix fathom line. We immedi-!- ately hauled the wind, which freftienedupon us, and ftood fouth by eaft. In this diredlion we foon deepened our water to eight, nine, and ten, when it again fhoaled to fix fathom. We now confidered ourfelves as embayed in Gierke's Ifland, and kept work-p ing to windward j the foundings regularly dtcreafing on both tacks. At noon, our latitude was, by account, 63 23 , longitude 189" 29'. Continued making fliort boards till two P. M., when we brought up in fix fathom, fand and ftones ; but, the anchor not holding, we dropped a fecond, and immediately after faw low land from eaft north-eaft one-half eaft, to weft north-weft, diftant in the neareft place abiut three miles, which was immediately af- ter hid again in the fog. The wind increafed to a brilk gale, and th€ weather was mifty and rainy all night. ^38 ACCOUNT OK AN EXPEDITION July 1 8. Being very fqually, with fliowcrs and heavy fogs, wc got a fpare anchor ready. At ten A. M. a hard gale coming on from eaft fouth-caft, we kept occafionally paying out cahle. About noon, the cable of the beft bovver parted, and we dropped our fpare anchor in four fathoms, and payed out 15 fathoms cable, having only three fathoms at the fhip's ftcrn. As the gale con- tinued, and no land was to be feen on account of the thick wea- ther, wc got a large fpare anchor out of the hold, and belayed a cable to it in cafe of need. The night was very dark, with a rough fea, and breakers juft aftcrn. ^!| i j; The 19th, at four A.M., the wind became more moderate, but the fog ftill continued. The fca being Icfs agitated, we lowered our boats, and filhed up our bell bovver. At noon, in a moderate wind, we fent a mafter's mate towards fliorc to found, and weighed the two fpare anchors. We obfervcd a current to the weft at three quarters of a knot. The mailer's mate reported, that he found three fathoms pretty clofe in with the Ihore, but that the furf was violent. At fix P. M. the fog clearing up, wc dif- covered feveral mountains covered with I'now from weft fouth- weft to north one-half eaft, and low land to eaft north«eaft one- half eaft. Sunday the 20th, fcnith-eaft by eaft, a moderate breeze, hazy and mifty. At noon the weather cleared up a little, and v^'e faw lofty mountains covered with fnow fouth-wcft by Ibuth one-half weft, and a peaked mountain, fcemingly at a great diftance be- yond the high land north-weft by north ; our obferved latitude being 63° 26' 34". At two P. M. we iliw two men walking along the low beach, who made a ftaud oppofitc the lliip, and, having fomething hoifted on a pole, waved ii backwards and for- wards. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. *39 wards. We Immediately hoifted our flag. Mr. Bakoff was fent with the baidar on Ihore ; but the breakers were fo violent, that he could neither land nor pet within hale ; he therefore re- turned at fix P. M. We oblervcd the variation of the compafs 24** lO' 30" eaft. For the better trim of the fliip, we filled fix caiks with foa water. »..'.■ ^ I On the 21ft wc had little wind from the fouth-eaft, with rain at intervals. At noon Captain Billings and feveral gentlemen went on fli(jrc on the low beach. At eight P. M. a gentle breeze fprung up from the north-weft, and the weather cleared amazmg- ly, I went to the main-top-maft head, whence 1 could plainly fee the fpit (jf land, where the Captain went aihore, join to a moun« tain bearing weft by north, diftant io miles, trending due eaft about 1 7 miles, where it terminated, leaving a paflage into the lake which appeared behind it, and upon which 1 perceived a large boat rowing toward the mountains. The extremity of this fpit of land I computed at eight miles from the ftiip, in a direction cuft noith-caft one-half eaft ; and in the fame direction three miles fariher is a projeding mountain, which conftitutes a part of the ifland, from which the land takes a circular fweep north-weft, to the top of the lake, continuing the circle to fouth by weft. "We now took the following bearings : the fouth extremity of land, as far as we could trace a communication of mountains by low land, fouth-wcft 30"^', diftant about 12 miles. The body of a mountain, which appeared a detached ifland, fouth-weft 32° 30', about 20 miles. Another mountain, feemingly detached from fouth-weft 8° to fouth 23^ weft, about 16 miles. The pro- montory neareft the extremity of the fpit of land north-caft 78% from whence it took another circular fweep to fouth-eaft 75^, ' ; where ;|. *\9 ACCOUNT 01' AN rxprniTiON where xre j|)eicclvcd high l.iiul at about lo leagues; l)ut could not difcern whether it was connedcd, or foiined a feparate illaiid ; and I'cveral intervening mountains v.ere in the far ^ l\atc of un- certainty. At nine P. M. Captain Billings returned on board, and wc immediately got under weigh. He laid, the Tea broke To violently on the beach, that it was witli great difliculty they efte(f\cd a landing ; and the Oonalaflikan, who had accompanied them in his fmall baidar, bad had it daOicd to pieces. Obicrviug a foot-path on the fpit of land which was only ao yards wid -, he walked along it, in hope of meeting wiili fonic of the ruirivct> at habitations which appeared at no very confulerable dlll,i,icc. The fhore was almoft covered with the bonos of fca animals. He paflfcd feveral dogs that were very tame ; and, ar tbc dillancii of about three miles from the landing pi ice, he law feveral fcallbUIs fix feet high, evidently for the pi:rpofe of preforving, ami keep- ing out of the reach of dogs, ike. filh and ica animals ; but no habitations were near. The failors near the boats obfcrvcd a very large baidar croflvn^ the lake from the vallies on the oppo- fite iide, containing, as they fuppofed, about 30 men. Upon feeing this boat, one of the men walked along the path which Captain Billings had taken ; but, not feeing him, and the boat advancing very faft, he fired his mulkct, as a fignal for the Cap- tain ; upon which the boat immediately Hood back with all pof- fible fpeed. In confequence, they had no intercourfc with the natives. Thurfday the 22d, by five A.M. hiv'iHv r^c red fou juth- caft, eaft, and eaft by nortli, we maci», -,j miles fouth-eaft 79^, when we rofe more land a-hcad, and were fully convinced that all the mountains between whicli there fcemed to be Ibaits, were j.-«aed by low land., The appearance, however, greatly julllfjes I Lieuten- TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, vkc. 141 Meutcn-mt Syml in placing fo many illands in thefc parts. Our glaiks dilicoverccl all the VJillics occupied by the buildiuf'.s of rlvc natives, .hJ Tc AfFolds for preparing proachcd the land, to iivc *id four fathoms at one mile and a halt. Having cleared this ifland, wc flood north and north-eaH ibom 20 miles, when the north-eaft extremity of the land bore wi i, having a mountainous appearance, and terminating in a uflp. headed cape. [We did not fee Ai derfon's Ifland.] The wind fl/ifted to weft fouth-weft, and wc flaaped our coUPJ^ north-weft by weft, with foggy we.-ther. At noon our latitude, by account, was Cj," 43', longitude 192" 7'. The afternoon was hazy, with rain, and a gentle foutherly breeze. At eight P. M. the wind veered to north-caft, and foon blew hard. The 24th we had a briflc gale from north north-weft, on ac- count of which we laid-to under main and mizen about three hours, when we ftood away eaft north-caft to get well clear of the eaft of Gierke's liland, which would otberwifc prove a lee- I i flxore. '!*• 242* ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION I V : {hore, if the gale fhould continue ; and the very narrow ercape- that we had already experienced made us rather fearful of ufing too much freedom with this ifland. At noon we got the fun's altitude in the haze, latitude 64° 4' 2.6". Afternoon cloudy : kept our courfc till midnight, ^y^th foundings at 19, 18, and 17 fathoniy. The 25th wc had a hard gale north nc. th-wefl: with a rough ihort fea, and laid-to under main and mizen till noon, when wc got the fun's altitude ; latitude 63° 26' 23", longitude, by account, 193" 20'. We now (leered north, north-eaft under clofe-reefed top-fails, the wind north-weft, making two points and a half lee- way, with 17 fathoms fandy bottom. At 3^ 47' 25", apparent time, the fun and moon's diftante made our longitude 192" 24' 45", latitude 63" 28' 30." At eight P.M. we wore ihip^ fteer- ing weft by fouth till the 2Cth, at feven A.M. when we faw Gierke's Ifland right a-hcad. The wind blowing from the weft: a gentle breeze, we let out all reefs, and fet top-gallant fails. At noon, our latitude,, by account, was 63° 10' 41", hazy. In the afternoon, with light airs, we kept a northern courfe. On Sun- day the 27th, in the morning, we had foggy weather, with little wind from the north-weft. At eight A.M. it cleared up a little, and at noon we obierved the latitude 6^^ 31' 8", longitude 192° ^5'. The afternoon being clear, with little wind, we kept a courfe north-eaft by eaft all day. The 2Sth, a gentle breeze weft by north, fleering north by weft. At ten A. M. we faw high land north-eaft 7'^, and low land north-weft 10^. At noon the lati- tude obferved was 64^ 12' 19", Sledge Ifland bearing north-weft 6°, diftant 12 miles. At one P.M. the continent of America bore from north-weft s^° to north-eaft 35'. At four P. M. being about eight railes fouth of the neareft land, wc caft anchor in 12 8 fathoms j TO THE EASTERN OCEAN; cS;c. 343 fathcTms ; our latitude being 64° 20', longitude, correded from our laft lunar obfervation, 164"^ eaft, Sledge Ifland fouth 78° weft, diftant nine miles, Cape Rodney north-vvefl 75*^, alfo nine mile's. Captain Billings ordered the boats out, and went on fliore with the naturalift, draftfman, Mr. BakofF, and Enfiga Bakulin, with a few foldiers armed, befides failors in the long-boat and (kiff. We obferved a current fetting to the eaft, at half a knot. In the morning of the 29th we had very light airs from the weft, with cloudy weather. At fix A. M. a baidar containing nine of the natives rowed alongfide, and came on board upon the firft invitation, leaving their arms in the boat, confifting of bows, and arrows pointed with green jade, calcedoni, and ivory ; the bow ftrengthened, and rendered more elaftic, by the finews of the rein-deer, which were artfully bound round it. They had alfo lances about feven or eight feet long, fome pointed with iron, but very few ; the generality being pointed with the tufks of the morzfh or walrofs very neatly cut. Upon one of them they hoifted a bladder, which fignal we anfvvered with a flag, and they immediately came on board. They were well limbed, ra- ther tall, had fine open and agreeable countenances, and were handfome and healthy. Their drefs was very neat and clean ; being half-boots, neatly embroidered about the inftep with dif- ferent coloured hair and finews, made of beautiful white leather, and tied round above the ancle with narrow flips of red leather, the foles made of bears' hide fmoked ; tight, well made panta- loons, alfo of leather dyed yellow or red; a very neat park, re- fembling a carter's frock, reaching down to the knees, round- ed before and behind, fo as to form two flaps, and open at "the fides up to the hips. They wore no coverin'^ on the head ; J i ?. an4 ;;i ■^41 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPIvDITION ami the hair was cut ahiioll as lliort as if nuivcn. They regarded' every thing on board with athniratlon, but did not ajipcar to be of a pilfering difpofilion. I gave each of them a giafs bead, and' tliey immediately exprcfled great anxiety to obtain more, but had no articles cf barter with them. They exchanged a few very t»eatly-niade ad/cs of green jafper, or jade, cxtrcniciy fliarp ; nor did they Icruplc to part with their arms, and even ilrippcd tliem- felves, giving their clothes for beads, knives, &zc. One of them by accident broke a fmall pane of glafs, which threw them all Into a ftate of difmay. He immediately offered ills lance by way of indemnification ; but we made liim underftand that it was no lofs, by putthig in another, and laughing at his concern, which pleafed them all very much. They left us, making figns that they would foon return with fome articles of trade for beads, &cc- and paddled away towards Cape Rodney. At ten P. M. the fkiff returned with the Captain and Enfign,. The long-boat, with the other gentlemen, did not get on board till the 30th towards midnight. The following account of their excurfion I tranllated from the original remarks of one of the gentlemen in. the party. :! il " We landed on a fandy beach near the difcharge of a fmall *' river ; hauled botli boats on Ihore ; and made a lire with drift- " wood, which was in great plenty. The Captain, Mr. BakofFi " the Dodlor, and Draftfman, walked along a narrow path on " (hore, quite unarmed ; and at a fmall diftance from the boatsi, *' we faw two natives coming toward us. When advanced withf " in a few fathoms, they made a ihuul ; upon which beads were " fliewn them, and a few thrown on the ground. They were " armed with lances, and advanced with the points toward us ; " but TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, 8cc, 245 hut upon fcL-ing the heads, ami ohfcrving our figns of fiicnd- fliip, they turned the points of tlich' K-inces hehind them, and approaclied without hefitation. lljion the lirll fight of the *' natives, our interpreters were fcnt for, viz. tlie Oonalaflikan, *' the American taken from Kadiak, and an Anadyrfky C^oli'ac, " vvhofc mother was a Tfhutfki woman. This hitter they ua- derflood perfectly well, and, embracing him upon his fpcaking tlic language of the I'iliutfki, wc concluded that they were cvf that nation, and not Americans. We returned all together to the boats, and Captain Billings gave each of them a copper me- dal and a few beads. Shortly after we were joined by two other *' Americans, and obtained of them, for beads and a few uniform buttons, their bows, arrows, and lances. Upon their invita- tion we accompanied them to their dwelling, leaving only four men armed to guard the boats. The habitat' on was lituated " four vcrfts from our landing-place ; and upon our arrival flcins " of rcln-deer and other animals were fpread for our feats before " the fire. When we were placed, the hoftefs prefented each with a thin flip of the fkin of a marten, and immediately after with fifli, and the meat of the deer boiled ; but the intolerable ften^h of the hut took away all appetite on our part. It was dark when wc arrived at the habitation ; fo that wc knew not " its extent, nor the number of its inhabitants ; notvvithftanding " the friendly behaviour of the natives, therefore, and though wc " were well guarded by our foldiers and failors, armed, and keep- " ing a regular watch, we pafTed a fleeplefs night. " In the morning of the 29th we difcovered that we were not " in a village, but in the temporary tent of a fingle family, pitch- *' cd for the fake of fifliing, and hunting wild- deer. The tent ?!:«' K was fl4^ ACCOTINT OF AN EXPEDITION " was covered with leather, except on one fide, which conlillcd " of the intcftincs of fca animals for the admiifiou of light. cc '(( At noon we returned to our hoats, where, we were inform- ed, fcvcral natives had hcen, and traded with the men, [giving " them martens' fl^ins, the river-otter, and foxes, for heads ; and " that they invited them to their hahltation, pointing out the di- " rcdlon, which we followed, along a fmall path of about five " verlls. When we arrived there, wc were alfo treated with the *' grcatcR friendfliip, and received in return for our prefents, the " fkins of martens, foxes black and red, lynxes, and gluttons. " Blue glafs beads, iron, and metal-buttons, were their favourite " articles of barter. ^. " The Captain returned to the boats at (<:\cn P. M. where he ** found the Knfign ; and, immediately embarking in his Ikifi", *' with him and four failors, rowed on board. Dr. Merck was " coUcdling plants and other natural curiofities; and the different *' hands were fcattered, fome trading with the natives ; fo that *' it was near dark before we were all colledled. " IMr. Bakoff bought a baldar of the natives. In which he " placed four failors ; and, after taking fome refreshment, we " put off together. There was but little wind, and that was right *' in our teeth. The fca was rough, and the current againft us. " We rowed about two hours, when the wind frefliened, and it " rained hard. Having a fmall kedge on board, we brought up " to wait day-light, very wet and much fatigued, and had loll *' fight of the baidar. «« At /lf/< jfi: rhtr I ti(iii I'Y the Njtivfs. — /i I yUvcntiirc of the. Author. — Singular k'niil of EnCiWipwcut. — Ihirlir ivitb ihc Mii/c, anri into two Trihcs ; which tire f/fjnitclv (hfcrihcd. — (Hi/Ujin Jiilliii^^s^ with ii PiUtw Icijvcs the Ship for the /'ur/uf ,f a Land Excnr/iun acrofs the Country to the Kovima. — 'ijhut/ki Pajlimes^ life. — Ca/>tain SaretpM:ff\ Jmrfuant to order ^ fails for Oonalajhkuy and anehors in the Harbour of llluluk. — Captain Hall arrives. — Preparations wade for a IVintcrs Refdcnec. — Tribute eolleNcd, — Mi f on from Shclihff's FfabUf.meut at KadiaL — Sketeh of the Natural Hifory of the l/land of Ovnalajbka. — yl Hurricane. VV E IkkI no fooncr dropped our aiicljor than a baidar full of Tlhutiki came along-fulc, and fhcwcd us a paper from KobclcH', wlu") (they faid) vvavS now at tlie eallern p-romontory ; and Dauer- kin was with his relations toward Anadyrlk ; but they added, that we mail come on lliore and give them fomc tobacco bei'ore thev would let us have the paper, ('aplain Billings went on Ihore in his full uniform, and was received with everv token of friend- fliip and refped. Dauerkin was inunediately feut for, and oi-r intcrcourfe with the natives was perfedly free and unguarded. On tlie 6ih, at noon, Lauerkin arrived, with 1 1 large baidars full ol'Tlhvitlki, whofe numbers increafed hourly- They had plenty of fkins of foxes, inartii\s, hares, ami the inulk-rat of America, whence, indeed, thoy obtain the greateit number of their furs, boats, TO r/ii', F.Anri'.iiN ocean, Ve. «5« boats, and armr., in r\c]r.it)}^c for iVicli aiticlcu ii?» they ('ft from l/.llii}!;in(l;, ami iVoiii llii; wamU'iin^]; peddling liadciH about llic cftuary ol the Kovltna, ike. On tlic 7tli, I vvcnr en lliorc in nniforui, hiit wai not very well |)lca(l(l with llic rcc'-piion that 1 nu;t vviili. I liiid lliollcd ainon;; the 'I'lhutiki to Ionic dilianix from (luv tents and jHople, where one of the natives he,L';an to ent the hnttons oil iny eoat. I llrntic him on the lloniach with my lill, and he fell over fonic loofc Hones behind him. One of our inon (Valfdey TolHiehen, a native ot Anadyrfk), olilervinj^ the tranl'adion, ran towards ine ; the man got up and lauj'Jieil, not fecming to be the lead oll'endcd at the blow. 'roIIUelu-n t(jld me, that they alvvayfi infnited little men, and fueli as were lels a(flive than they. Upon liearing this, I challenged any oi\e of them to run or leap. One ofllieni ofl'ercd lo run with me to a point of land at lead a mile dillant, and back again ; ibis, however, I rejeded, and propofed running toward the boats, a little more than 200 yards. Arriving firft at the goal, 1 received the pleafing compliment of their acknowledging that I was, indeed, a man, thougii but a very little one. Not being inclined, however, to perform for their entertainment, I returned on board, fully rcfolvcd not to quit the fliip again fo long as flic remained here. The beach was now covered with the baidi . of the natives, liauled on fliore and turned keel upwards, one gunnel rcfting on the ground, the other fupported on their paddles: thus they ferved the purpofe of tents ; and old drcfled deer-fkins fewed to- gether were ufed inftead of curtains for the open fide. Here the natives, men and women, flept indifcriminately. The former traded with their drefl'cs, furs, tufks of the walrofs, whales' fins, K. k 2 and il tjl ACCOUNT OF AK KXPFDITIOM I ntui pli'ccs of the i\ut of rcin-iloor (hi'lid with chopped meat, maiiow, ami f.tt. The latter were extrcnv.ly happy to j;rani any favours for heails, huttons, tohaoco, «Sco. and that evi-n in the pre- fencc of the men, who a«flually hitrochucd (mu* pef trade. Thele, how- ever, were not their wives, hut piiloners taken iVom their Ameri- can i\ei}:;hhours, with whom they are frecpimtly at war. The eaule of the lall afl'iir between them was this : Inith parties meet- ing, on the ehaee of fea animals, (piarrcllcd ; an engagement eom- menecd, in whieh the Amerleans took one baidar aiul made the crew piiloners ; the other, returning, procured a reinforcement, maile a defcent on the American coall, carried olfa few women, and then peace was rellorcd. The Tihutiki nation is diviiled iui;? two very dillind tribes: the one is cilled Stationary, or fixed inhubilants of the eoall ; the oilier, Reindeer, or wanderers. The filmier occupy fuch places as are convenient for filhing and the cliace oi' Tea animals, irom the river Anadyr to a fniall dlllatice tunth of the eaftern promontory. The extent of their population, according to the bell intelligence that I could obtain, amounts to about 30CO males. Their chief liabitations arc about the bay o( Anadirfli, particularly in the vicinity of Serdfi Ka- xiien % and in the gulph of Metehickma, whieh is between the ■h * F.i\M\ KiinuMi is a vciy vcniarknblc iiKnintaiii, liliiatcd in ilic nonli-fall pan of the lav of AiuuliilK, aiul jnoiieliiig .'iito it. Tlic liack nr inlaiul part is rcpli'tc with cavities, whithcv ilic 'I'lhir. iKi tliil wlun att;\fkfil hy I'avhiKki. Heir, ficrctiii}; thcinfilvcs in llie caviii.s of the loek, they Ihot great muiiiIhis of tlie Riifiians on their paHinj; l)y. Tavlntlki luul at \\\\> time Ivit a few of his foMoweis witli him, and relurneil to Anadiilk for n leia- fv^reimcnt ; where Ik relateil, tliat tlie Tlhntiki (hot hi:; peoi)li fion) tlie hiavt of tlic roek ; vh;nce it acqniad ilic iianK of iJeidfi Kanicn, or tiic Iieait-llojc. bays TO Tim FASTF.im OCFA^, ^c. 251 bays of Anadirfk aiul St. I.aiiivncc. North of iljc cafliirn pro- iiiontniy ihc tlwcllinj^s arc hut few, hci.uiCc the fca Ir not (b pro- lific of lilh, nor arc tlicrc any forcH. ; hiit ihc tnarino .itiiinalH arc more nuincrous, wh,,li is the cuufe of its hclnji; frccpiented on the ch»cc ; which fonicunu's induces thcin to pafs the Shalatlkoi promontory into the 'I'lhaoon hay ; which, they fay, is ahout i ,- ilnyn' journey from tliecalUrn cape, flccping on lliore every ni}!;hr. They were la tliis hay two leafons waiting ff)r our expedition fioni the river Kovima, — I luppofe In 1787 and tjHH, They appear very induftriv^us, and are neat workmen, • is evinced hy their l)aidars, lanccR, arrows, hows, apparel, utcnrds., •ike. witli which they fupply the waiuLrers. They alfo trade witli their female prifoners, receiving in return rein-deer, copper and iron kettles, knives, heads, and fuch articles as the rovers ob- tain from the Kudian traders. They dig cellars, in which they kctip their fuppiics of food and oils. The provifion confil\s of dried meat of fca animals and deer, roots, and herries. They regard the lips and I'nout of the morzlh, or walrofs, as a great delicacy when hoiled almofl to a jelly. The oil of the fea animals they keep in feal-fkins, and of this they obtain immenfe tain Hail, to be j^iven him upon his arrival. Ill the cvc«\lng the whole party took leave of the (hip's com- pany and went on Ihore, intending to let out on their journey carlv the next morning. 'I'he immcnfc quantity of articles that Captain liillings took with him for preients, to leeure the frieml- fliip ol' the Tlhutlki, ai\d enfure his own lafcty, appeared to mo more likely to have a contrary cU'ed. However, he fcemcil con- vinced that there was no danger to be leared from the natives. On Wednefday the i ;^th Aiiguft, early in the morning, w^e fiivv \\\c baidars of the Tlhutlki launched, and loading with the bag- gage i^fonr friends ; and at nine o'clock they departed in fifteen baidars, taking with them our moll lincere wilhes for their prof- pcvity and I'uccels. The profped, indeed, was but a mehuicholy one. There were now only two families o{ the Tlhutlki left in their tent, and Captain SaretlhcIV and I went cm lliore. We law Ic- veral boys Ikipping with a rojie, and learnt that this was a fa- vomite cxercife, aiul very cullomary among the young women, of whom two held a rope, one at each end, and while they fwung it round, a third Hood in the middle to lea^) over it. We alio obferved boys and girls jumping on a ikin in the fame manner as wc had feen them on tb.e illand ot Tanaga ; but the Ikin in this in- y fretpienting the rocks at low water, which were overilowed at flood ; ami thefe I caught by the fol- lowing ftiatagem : I baited a iilh-hook with a raw mufcle, ami ihrull it into the holes, or rather cavities, in the rocks: the filh lurking under thefe flones took my bait, and I by thefe means fometimes in the courfe of hall" aii hour caught half a do/en fidi : the forts were — the wrafle, the father lalher, a large fpecies of the Menny, and the turpug. [For a particidar dcfcriplion of foinc of thcfo fifli, I refer my reader to the Appendix.] The other iilh are halibut, cod, two or three fpeeics of falmon, and fometimes, but very rarely, the tlhavitlha, a fpecies of falmon very commot\ in Kamtlhatka, about Neizlhni, between four and five feet long ; alfo thornbacks and floundervS. The Ihell-filh are — diflercnt fpe- cies of cral)s, the fmall pearl oyllcr, mufcles, cockles of an im- menfe fize, wilkes, periwinkles, a great variety of edible limpets, and the cuttle fiih. Tiie !)iri]s that I obferved were — two fjiecies of gecfe ; one termed by the Ruilian liuntcrs laidenoi. Thcfc appeared on the 31ft Augull, two days after our arrival, and wintered here. The head, neck, and breall, are wliite ; it has a large black fpot on the throat ; back, wings, and tail, aih colour ; the extremity of the feathers barred with a black flreak edged with white ; bill 14 ntid TO TIIK T'A^'I'FUN OCFAN, Jcc. fl^S aiiil logs yellow ; tiaws hlacli. 'I'lii-y rcm.uncil licro iintU tlir iSih April, and on tlu: ii^th tin; oiIkt IjhtIcm arrival, which 1 h.ivc ili li lilii'il al Kinliak, whcro wc ohtaiufil ("oinc : \\\dc. licpart about tin.' {oih of Ati^ull. 'I'ovvaril the latter ciul of Si'|itcinhcv » few of the fnow-huutinjvs c.uui', hut only llaycd a few ilayii. lone the I'hc on of bill land The lai ka, a Llnd of (fink very frejjueiit in KainHlmlka, in.ulo its appeai.nuc at the bej^innin)"; of OOlober, and wintered. The i.'.th November wc faw the Inrpan of dchotlk ; hut ihefe Hayed dv a l< d.i t)nly a lew tVays, ami were ni very poor eondiUon. T\ lere i;t alfo ;i fpeeica of hunting with a red head and bread ; but of thefe F law only two or three ; they are intich foui:;ht after by the natives, who ornament the llrinj!;H to their ilarts and drefll-H with the red fi*athci:< : alio a bird as ftnall as a wren, whieh emits n (feli|',htfnl note: theic anil the fafka, inderd, are the only n\elodiotis bird'j on the illand. Here arc alfo a foivv i>artriil^';e;t, teals (tlhir(;k), cormorants (urili), awks (ari), lea j>arrots (toporki), and p;»dh: (tduiiki). A very larp;e fpecies ot" the i\\\\\ kimi was killed by a jiarty eolleilinp; ilrift-wood in the InLMnnlnj^ of April. They had retired to a cave to reiVelh themfelvc^, when this bird, purfucd by an eagle, took refuge among thcnu The win;-; hail three jointvS, one more than I ever law in any other bird. The Kuf- lians call them Semi Sa/fhenoi (feven I'athom), i'rom tlie extreme length of their expanded wing.s. They art freipiently fecn, l)ut the natives have never foin)d their nelis or ci;;gs. When picked, it ajijieared very like a large turkey, and, to our depraved tades, was not iid'erior in ne village on this iiland contained more than the above num- ber. At that time they liad one chief prefiding over the whole iiland, whom tliey called Kikagadogok, being chofen by the nu- iives froni among the Tokok * or Dogok, chiefs of villages (for it is pronounced both ways at different iflands). The reft arc vallals, dillinguilhed by the name of Talha. They fay, that ♦■ i }.;iv( iilifiivid, tlut the chief;; of villages nrc cnlleJ by fome of tlie Riiffiaus Tookoo; i,v .iilitis 'i'uviiii. Wlieiue tliey obtained tlie uumc of Tuokou 1 know not; but Toyon, 01 Tuiijii!!} it tin- [iroper Yakut name fw Chief, mankind ^m ':B fy II. '//.: ./•V // ■/;;./, '(il./A%i ff.if// fl/ //n 7' r ,A,.,U.> //. r//.i/ /r ///'//• ' /I //rr.i //'f, '///// II //.I //,u //y//i, I'lfz/r //III// /if/ I /III ii'//i /i'i/-/i TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. V3 mankind were the offspring of dogs b/ the command of Agliu- guk ; and that all of them came from the weft, where they fup- pofe there exifts an immenfe and very populous country. Although they formerly had places wherein to depofit the pro- duce of the chafe, they never were accuftomed to lay in a ftock for the; winter ; for they only preferved iheir food until it came to their turn to feaft. As, however, at that time, the iflands were populous, and their villages extenfive, this method was nearly the fame thing ; for the different villages vifited each other in re- gular rotation, and were guefts until the whole quantity that they had collected was exhaufted, which was not till their fifhing fea- fon re-commenced, when their magicians and the kikaga-dogok were cou.uited, and commenced their incantations for new fuc- cefs In the enfuing feafon, affuring their ^agahs that nothing had been wafted of their former bounty. They fifh with bone hooks. The lines are either a remarkable fpecies of fea-weed * feventy fathom long, or the fins of whales cut very thin and even f . Their darts for animals are coloured, forac red and others black ; for they have different coloured paints, or earths, which they mix with oils of fi(h ; as white, blue, red, and black. Thefe they obtain from a mountain near the village Ama- da ; but where that is fituated I know not. The capacity of the natives of thefe Iflands infinitely furpaffes every idea that I had formed of the abilities of favages. The or- * A fpecinien of which Is now ia the pofiefilon of Dodtor Rogers, with feveral other Aleutan curiofuies. f The natives, when fiihing for liahbut in 70 or 80 fathom water, frequently haul up with the line beautiful white Hicks and their roots. Tiiefe are from fix to eight feet long, very thin, and without bark or branch. .When firfl taken out of the water they are as elailic as wlialebone ; but, when kept a confiderable length of time, they refembie white coral, and arc brittle. N n der 274 ACCOUNT OF AN KXPEDITION (Icr cftabUniecl among llicm, and their fubordination to liich chiefs as they h:ivc felc^cd for their rulers, certainly originate from principles of adoration which tlicy poflefs for an exilling invifible Superiority, and govern their conduiSV Tvltli that propriety which ftems moll likely to attain fecurity and protciSlion, both in this world and in the next ; for they firmly believe in another world, and imagine that fuch as live in conformity to the will of Aghu- guk will there obtain all rieceflaries with little trouble, and not be under the control of the kugah. Their behaviour, therefore, is not rude and barbarous, but mild, polite, and hofpitable. At the fame time, the beauty, proportion, and art with which they make their boats, inftruments, and apparel, evince that they by no means deferve to be termed ftupid ; an epithet fo liberally be- ftowed upon thofe whom Europeans call favages. It is much to be lamented, that they are under the fway of the roving hunt- ers, who arc infinitely more favage than any tribes that I have hitherto met with ; nor do I fee any means of checking their outrages ; for the authority of government can never reach thefe diftant regions : the only profpedl of relief appears to me to con- fift in the total extirpation of the animals of the chafe ; and I think I may venture to fay, from the daily havock made among them, that a very few years will ferve to complete this bufinefs. As I have fo frequently mentioned the hunters, a fuccindl ac- count of their proceedings may perhaps not prove uninterefting to my readers. Their galliots are conftrufted at Ochotfk, or at Neizfhni Kamt- fliatka; and government, with a view of encouraging trade, have ordered the commandants of thofe places to afford as much affift- ance as they can to the adventurers ; befide which, the materials of I -^ TO THF. EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 275 of the very frequently wrecked tranfiiort venfcls, though lofl: to government, are found the chief means of fitting out fuch an cn- tcrpiife, and greatly lelTcn the expcnce. The failors agree to the (liftrihution of fo many pais ((hares) among tliem, in lieu of wages : tluis their veffcls are procured and manned. Tlie cargo coniifts of about five hundred weight of tobacco ; one hundred weight of gliifs beads ; perhaps a dozen fpare hatchets, and a few fuperfluous knives of very bad quality ; fin immenfe number of kleptfi (traps for foxes), and a fmall ftock of provifion, confifting of a few hams, a little rancid butter, a few bags of rye and wheat flour for holidays (for they do not make a pradtice of eating bread every day), and a confiderable quantity of dried and failed falmon. They are alfo fupplied with a few rifle-barreled guns, and a quantity of ammunition, for their defence againft the na- tives. Being thus eqi;ipped, with (" Bozflie Pomotfli **) God's help they go to fea. Upon their arrival at any of the 'nhabited Aleu- tan iflands, they formerly ufed to take a number of women and a few men as hoftages ; but now they take poflefllon of the vil- lage, and, after hauling t:.eir veflTel on fhore, diftribute their kleptfi to the natives to catch foxes, and fend out parties to col- led firing, to fifli, and to chafe fea animals. Some of the hunters go to the contiguous iflands, and exa£t the lame obedience from all, while they themfelves live in indolence and eafe. The articles of trade, as they call them, are given in fmall quantities to the women, to fecure their attachment ; and the men are fometimcs rewarded for a hard J'y's work with a leaf of tobacco. ials of Ever fmce Shelikoff formed his eftablifliment at Kadiak, no other companies have dared venture to t' ? eafl: of Shumagin*$ N n 2 ifiand. I 276 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION ifland. I am inclined to think that Suchanin's vcflcl will he tliii lall that will attempt to vifit thefc iHands tor l'ur8 j and prohahly he will obtnhi hardly any other than foxes', which arc ilill hero In confjderah'o numbers, and even refort to the villages. in col^ nights in queft of prey. Shelikoff has formed a projctT: to obtain the fole privilege of carrying on this trade without a rival ; and he will probably, one day or other, fucceed ; but not before the fcarcity of furs ieilens the value of this trade, and renders a frefli capital neceirary for making new excurfions to difcovcr other fourees of commerce, or rather of wealth ; then the dire«5tors of the prefent concern will explore the regions of America; and, if nothing advantageous occurs, they will, doubtlefs, retire from the concern, fecure in their pofTeflions, and leave the new members to purfue the under- taking. During the month of March the fcurvy feemed perfectly at a (land, neither increafing nor diminifhing materially upon the af- flided ; but early in April, when the new plants produced a fup- ply of vegetables, thofe fick who had ufcd crutches were enabled to relinquIQi them, and willingly gave them up to fuch as began to creep out of their hammocks. The weather, though it con- tinued hazy, "v^^as drier than it had been ever fmce our arrival. We now began making preparations to leave this fatal ifland ; when we difcovered that our Huls, cordage, and rigging of every kind, had fuffered from the climate as much as our ihip's com- pany J every thing was quite rotten, and our velTels very foul. Captain Hall, who had now the command, took charge of the Slava Roflie, and Captain Saretiheff went to the Black Eagle. . 10 Notwith- TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &:c. 277 Notwuhflanding every individual exerted himlclf to the utmoft of W.> .i';ilUies, however, we were not ready to depart before the miUille ol Muv. « We had received, as tribute from about five luindred of the natives of the Aleutau illands, a dozen fea otters' fkins, and of fox fkins, I believe, near fix hundred of dilFerent forts ; in return for which, we had diftributcd all our trinkets and tobacco. The extreme poverty of this place prevented our obtaining any articles of value for ourfclvcs : we procured, indeed, a few curiofities, but nothing elfe. On the 1 6th of May our veflels were hauled into the outer bay. We were now elated at the profpedt of once more revifit- ing Kamtfhatka, after the melancholy fenfations that we had en- dured for eight months and fixteen days, palTed in one continual ftate of anxiety upon this ifland, the grave of feventeen of our flouteft hands ; where, during the whole of our (lay, we had only been cheered eighteen times with the fight of the fun, and never experienced one clear day. On the 17th we failed out of the Bay of Amoknak, and the fame day faw the very remarkable fo- litary rock, refenibling a pillar, fituatcd about 30 miles north of the eaftcrn point of Oomnak. ; .. ;• ^ Nothing remarkable happened during our paiTage to Kamtfliat- ka. We loft fight of the Black Eagle the 7th of June ; and on the fame day faw an ifland, which we took for Semi Sopofhni, burning in fcveral places, particularly toward the fouthern ex- tremity. On the 1 6th, after encountering a few contrary gales and baffling calms, we arrived in the bay of Avatfha, in a very thick fog (which fell upon us at the mouth of the bay), and came to bl « fl78 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDIlION to anchor near the entrance into the inner harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, without being able to lee any land *. Notwithftanding wc were as filent as pofTible on board, with a view of furprifing the inhabitants when the weather became a little clear, wc had not lain long before wc heard a boat rowing towards the vefTel ; and were fliortly after amazed at feeing an Englifli pinnace coming along-fide, with Captain Charles William Barklcy in it, whofe vefl'el, the Alcyon, from Bengal, was at an- chor in the inner harbour on a trading voyage. His cargo con- fifted of articles that were invaluable in this part of the world; particularly in a port fo eligibly fituated for encouraging com- mercial undertakings ; namely, iron in bars, anchors, cables, and cordage, with various kinds of ironmongery wares, and a confi- derable ftock of rum. Notwithftanding this, the commander of the port having neither authority nor refolution to fecure a pur- chafe for account of government ; and the traders of this pcnin- fula (who ftile themfelves merchants) being merely a fet of rov- ing pedlars, without either capital or credit (and, what is ftil! worfe, without principles to fecure either) ; Captain Barkley was neceffitated to take thefe articles back again, although they were offered at lefs than one third of the charges of tranfporting fucli commodities from the manufadories in Siberia. h A man who has refolution to ftrike out a new line of commerce, or rather to feek a new fource of trade, in parts of the world fo little known as are thefe regions, at the fame time unacquaint- ed with the language and with the wants of the inhabitants, is rather threatened with lofs, than flattered with profpefts of profit. • Captain Saretftieff, in the Black Eagle, arrived on the rgtli. in TO THE KASTILRN OCEAN, &c. 379 in the firfl attempt ; and nothinjj; fliort of cnthufiuftic hope of fu- ture advantages can compenfate for tlie degree of anxiety that h& muft fuft'er. Such a nun, moll certainly, merits all the encou- ragement that the government can give him, which is furc to he eventually henclitcd hy his fucccfs. r-nfidcring thcfc circum- ftances, and that the two vefllls employ^ 'i in our expedition were in the greatell need of entire new rig;;ing, anchors, &ic. the pre- fent favourable opport nity of fervin}^ Captain Barklcy by clear- ing his Ihip was a fccondary conHderation, compared to the ad- vantages which government woul ! have derived from fo valuable an acquifiiion of the moil neceiiary artules that the port could pofTefs. This I rcprcfentcd to the g' ••» i nor of the port, and to the commanding oflicers of rur expedition ; hut both equally feared to ad without pofitivc crde s. In other refpeds, however, we gave him all the afliftance in our power. Captain Barkley was accompanied by his lady, and a fon of about feven years old. Their behaviour was very polite, and particularly pleafmg to us. 1 lament that we were not abk' to make them equal returns, but flatter myfelf that they were fatisfied with our endeavours. The extreme poverty of the place, and the luiferable fituation that we were in, muft have been fuflicient in their eyes to prove an excufe for us. They left this place the ift July O. S, Captain William Peters, who arrived here on the 9th Auguft 1786, was more fortunate in the difpofal of his cargo, owing to a mere aecid.mt that befel the only man in this part of the world who had a capital and an cftabliilied credit in Mofcow, which ca- pacitated him to become a purchafer : I mean Gregory ShelikofF, who failed the 2 2d May of the fame year from his eftabliQiment in Kadlak for the port of Ochotlk, with a cargo of furs. Contrary winds prevented his arrival at the Kuril iflands till the 30th July, ■which 4^0. ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION which alfo detained him here eight days. Still continuing wefl- erly, he refolved to fteer for the bay of Tlhekaf koi, at the cftuary of the Bolfhoia Reka, on the weft fide of Kamtfliatka, to purch^.fe a fupply of frefli fifli. When he arrived off tliis place he caft anchor, and went on fhore with the fliip's boat, whicli he imme- diately fent back again. Having purchafcd fifli, his intention was, to return to the veflel ; but a fudden fquall diove her out to fea; and, as the crew were all ill of the fcurvy, ShclikofF conclud- ed that they would make the beft of their way to Ochotflc. He himfelf went to Bolfhoiretflc, where he arrived on the 15th Au- guft, and bought three horfes to travel by land to Ochotflc. While he was there, intelligence was received of the arrival of an Englifli fhip at the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, for which place he immediately fet out. He arrived on the 23d of the fame month, and was well received by the Englifli ; for his own account is as follows : ** When the Englifli obferved my arrival, fome of them imme- diately came on fliore in their boat. The captain and two offi- cers met us in a very friendly manner, and invited us to go on board their vefl'el, where they fliewed me famples of their goods, and faid that they had letters from the Eaft India Com- pany to the commander of Kamtfliatka, in which the company " expreffed a defire of opening a trade with Rufllia, and requefl:ed " permiflion. I endeavoured to difcover whence they came, and " the courfe that they had fleered ; for they did not conceal their " charts from me. I heard that they were from Bengal, which " place they left, according to our ftile, on the 20th March ; " failed the i6th April from Malacca; arrived the 29th May at " Canton j left it the 28th July, and arrived here the 9th Auguft. " They were three officers and a Portuguefe. The crew confift- " ed (( {( « <( C( TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 281 " ed of EnglKhmen, Indians, Arabs, and Chlnefe : in all, 70. " The vcflel was built entirely of mahogany, had two marts and " twenty-eight fails ; was fheathed with copper to the gunnel, " and mounted twelve guns. " After fupper, Captain Peters with his officers conducted me on fliore ; but we deferred trading till the arrival of the com- mander of Kamtfhatka, Baron Von Steinheil, who came on the 25th, and adled as interpreter, fpeaking the French lan- guage. They bound themfelves to pay duty, according to the claims of government ; I gave them a lift of articles wanted here, for their future government ; purcludcd goods to the amount of 66 11 rubles; paid in part 1000 rubles, and gave bills upon Mofco at two months' fight, bearing intereft till paid, " at the rate of {\-s. per cent. On the 3d September I took leave of the Englilhmen, who intended to fail the next day. On the 8th I arrived with my goods at Bolfheiretfk, where I im- mediately fold the whole for upwards of iq,ooo rubles in ready money." Captain Peters was afterwards wrecked upon Bering's ifland, and only two of the crew fiwed (a Portuguefe and a Lafcar). Thefe travelled with me in the Autumn of 17S8 from Ochotfk to Yakutflc, in their way to St. Peterlhurg. The Portuguefe told me, that Captain Peters wanted to load his fliip with copper, which he had a notion that he mi^;,ht colle of their Sufferings. — An alarming Karthqiiakc. — La Lht^ via^ a French Shi/jy arrives with fpirituous Li({Uors and other Articles. 1 HE Impoflibillty of entering the port of Ochotfk with our hirgc vetVcl compelled us to take the rcColution of laying her up in Kamtlhatka, and waiting (for our deliverance) the arrival of tlic tranfport-vcflbl with the annual liipply of provifion for the pcninfula. As, however, our company was too numerous to em- bark, iu one of thelc galliots, Captains Hall and Saretilieff deter- mined to fail wiili as many as tliey could take on board the Tihcrnoi Orel. I'hey were ready early in the month of July ; but caflerly winds prevented their departure until towards the latter end of the month, when they iet fail with an intention of exploring the Kuril illands and the coad of China to Ochotlic *. Shortly after their departure, wc received intelligence from Captain Billings, of his fafe arrival at the river Angarka, after en- countering the grcateft dilHcultics, and fiiffering innumerable * They were prcvciitcii executing tin's unc^rtaking liy conlriii y wiiuls, wlidli clctiiliicd tliem at the Kinil iflands till late in Auj,mi11, when liiey thouijlil it move ailvil'aijle ti) fail tliiedt for Oehoiik., hardlhips TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, kc. 283 hardfliips from the Tihutfki. I received a letter from Mr. Main, of which the following is a copy : )m Ible l> lail lips " Dear Saueu, ** I flioukl think it a fpccics of inf^ratitudc to let flip nn oppor- tunity of wrltinj^ to you, to inform you of our fife arrival at the river Angarka * on the 15th itiRant, after un(lcr<.^oin<:^ every thing lliat is Ini'i during the fpace of (ik months and two days ; fuiTcring hy tlic moll violent froHs, without flicltcr froin thu bleak nortli winds; o\ving to thi;; barren country not producing the lead bit of wood, except when we fell in with rivers that afTorded en tlieir borders foine creeping willows. We were therefore obliged to put up with the frozen meat of deer, and whales and fea-horfe llefh, raw; and even with thefe the Tfliutfki fed us very fcantily, not oidy ahnofl flurving us, but at the fame time robbing us daily before our faces. They alio formed two plots, at dilfcrent places, to murder the Captain and our whole party ; but God Almighty prevented their laying violent hands upon us; and we have great reafon to tlian'c our Maker that we arc now quite out of their power, and getting ready to let out for the Lower Kovima, for which pi ce we depart to-morrow morning, accompanied by Mr. Bander j", whom we tound here wailing the arrival of the Tlhutiki. * "^I'lu n'viT Aiij^aikn h of no j;ri';it extent. It commences ne;ir l!ic iDiirc:: (.fllic nvtr Tdiaoon, or Tlhaiiii ; and, taklu;>- a contrary (lircolion, flows Into liie Sucliol Anniii, iIk latter diTcliarj^ing itlclf ir.!o tlic Koviina, oppolile the village of Wizihiii. I Ml. l^ander !'. the Ifpnivnlk, or Cajitain of t he dillricl of Zalliiverlk. 1 1 i, !)urineli i(ti tlu- .Angaika wm; to tolleit tribute from the Tduitfl:!. 'J'his geiitknian';; name lias oc- umred fieijuently in the hjrmer ])art ot t!\is work ; 1 lit, liaviiig aKvavs mentioned it from memory, 1 have been led into a mill. ike, in fpelliuir it Bointar, inllead eif Bai'.der. O o 2 "I alfurv: ? I 5 h s84 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION " I ofTiire you, that I very often curfed the hour wherein I left the Slava Rollle, having been obliged ever fince that tim: to bear with patienc.^ the abufes of the wildcft of favagc?, und ex- petting death daily. " I liave a great deal to commnnicatc, but muH: delay it till a iutuie day, being too much confuled •.■t prcfent with the bufinel's of packing up, and joy at feeing our old acquaintance Mr. Ban- der, vvlio travels at all times with a great flock of good things; and, as we liave had no fpirits now for thcfe fix months, a little drop makes us very merry. Let me, therefore, conclude with nflurlng you, that I remain ever, " Dear Sauer, *' Your fmcere friend, " John Main. " Tiic River Angaria, iill February lycjz." Several other letters mentioned that the Tfliutfl;;i had deftroyed their meai'nring lines, and their writing materials, and abfolutely prohibited the taking of any notes, or making remarks; which, however, without thefe violent reftridlions, was rendered impof- fible by the fevere froft and driven fnow, which completely pre- vented their ohferving the lakes from !"he land ; and as they did not approach the fea-fliore any where, except the Bays of Mel- fliikma and Rlutlhenie * (the laltcr was frozen at the time, and from hence their courfe was well to tlic Angaika), they had not obtained any knowledge from their ov;n obfervations of the fitu- ation of Shalatikoi Promontory, tiie Tihaun Bay, or tlie dircdion of the coaft of the Icy Sea between the eaftern promontory «nd * Tlie moulh of tlu'a bay is at. Captain Cook's Cr.pe North. the id ll- ad the TO THE EASTERN OCEAX, ^c. 285 the fartheft place ohlervcd In 1787, in onr cxcurlion to the Icy- Sea; namely, 30 miles eafl: of Barannoi Kamcn, the cape called by ShalaurofF Pefofhnoi Muys. The letters mentioned, that Captain Billings's intentions were to gc immediately to Yakutdc. He alio dclircd, in his pa- pers to the Command, that I -vvould make all poifiblc haftc to join him at the above-mentioned place. We were in daily expcdlation of the arrival of the tranfport veflcl J and our Company confillcd of Capt. Berin:;, -j Mr. BakoO; j Bakulin, [> of the Expedition ; Rohcck, And myfclf, befides the commander of the harbour. Major Schmaleff, and his Afhftant Enfign Roftergueff. All the reft of our neighbours were petiy officers, failors, and CofTacs. As my bufinefs did not confme me to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, I rcfided chiefly at Paratounka, and made frequent excurfions on the chale \vith the Kamtfliadals, fometimes for eight or ten days together, in the woods, and roving about the moun- tains at no great diftance fouth of the Bay of Avatlha. I faw bears in great numbers, wolves, foxes, and a few deer ; but could only kill the former, as we had no dogs with us to run the other animals down. Hares alio were in great plenty, but extremely fliy. On the nth Auguft, in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, T obfcrved a number of fwallows flving about, ai-jparently much 3 frightened. 236 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION frightened. They were red breaftcd, a fpecies nevo' remembered to have been u\.li here; and the inhabitants imintdiote)*' pre- dicted i'omc rem:* rkable event ; they wert, lur>v:'vcr, only v^en. during the raornin^'];. The next mo:ning, .rout five c'...Iocl;, v.-e were alarmed by a violent iiu"!: of rn carth;;uake, preceded by a rumbling noife, little Hiort of '.Ir.inder. '^iie motion of the earth was imdulatory for nc.irly the jpace of a minutn. I was drc/Ting myfelf, and was thrown down, whiv !i induced me to get out of the liouih as ruickly as pofllble. The ^-riur iu the ' iy wrs agi- tated Ukc a boiling cauMron. The ilioc'-: cam-:: from the iiorth- eaftj and nj-'peared to ine to eontinue r.pwards of two minutes ; but otli.r r:cntlenien were of opinion that it did not lafl more than one. A iailor,, one of the watchmen on board the Ihip, was thrown out of his hammock. At Paratounca it was more vio- lent ; the earth opened In many pkures, and water and fand were thrown up to a confiderable height; all the buildings in the village were more or lefs damaged ; one i)alagan was thrown down ; fomc of the ovens (the only brick-work about the build- ings) were alfc fluiken in ; and all the paintings, &c. in the church, except Captain Gierke's cfcutcheon, were thrown from tlieir fallenings. At Ncizflmi Kamtlliatka the inhabitants were extremely terri- fied ; nor corld they explain whether the noiie or the fliock preceded. The lituatlon of the town Is on a neck of land formed by the dlkhargc of the Raduga, a coniidcrable river, into the Kamtlhatka ; the bed of the former was dry, and the inhabitants ran acrois it to .vard the mountains. Thcy, as well as the cattle, were tlirowu clown; and the continuance of the trembling was, according to their account, near an hour ; the earth opened in many places, and funk confiderably in fome. The volcano Klut- fliefskoi TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, Sec. 287 fliefskoi emitted a vafl. column of black fmoke ; a no'ife like thun- der feemed to iflue from the bowels of the earth ; the bells of the two churches rang violently ; and the howling of the dogs, and fcreams of the people, furpafled all defcription, for the latter ex- petted every moment to fee the complete dcftrndion of the town. But when the fliock was over, the loft \vatcr of the river re- fumed its former channel, and the inhabitants relurned to their dwellings. Not a fmgle brick chimney or oven was left ftaiul- ing. The altar of one of the churches * was feparatcd from it about a foot, inclining a contrary way j and the greater part of the balagans were thrown down. It is remarkable, that the inhabitants of the village at tlie fool of the burning mountain only heard the noife, and did not feel the fhock ; nor did it crofs the mountains to the weftern fliores of the peninfula. )C;-!. hod he luts |tle, I'as, in lut- Ikoi Difpatches from St. Peterfburgh to the commander of the port announced the departure from France of a Ruflian fubjedl of the name of Torckler on board his own vefiel, with a view of fupply- ing thefe diftant parts of the world with provifion and every other neceflary, and recommended the governor's afliftance to the faid Torckler. Towards the latter end of the month of Sep- tember the veflel arrived, a fine new flup of about fix hundred tons, copper-bottomed, and called La I'lavia. Her crew confifted * Cluirches and houfcs throughout Ri '.iin, in :\Vk fiv.all toxins nnd v;!lin;('i, are built of tim- licr ; the Ipars laid on one anotiitr ; ilic cuds r. ;i<';it:J to adr.iil of ilicji" lying clofe tci;;-o- tlicr, and the intcriliccs tilled with inofs. The ultars arc deiacind l]);n-3 at. tl;.- cai'a'rn i-x- trtniitv of the church, Iniik as clofc to its body as poflibL. Tiic tuj) or t'le hL-UVy ;it Ncizlhni inclines in one direction more than thnc K'tt over the fouiiouiicn of tlic buildii't;'. h is about 40 feet high; and 1 think that tlic jaills at tlie end of tlu fpars are the only means of preventing its fall. of, tl ■ 288 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION cf, I believe, fixty men, befide officers. She carried the new French flag, and the officers wore the tri-coloured cockade. Mr. Torcklcr was the fupcrcargo only ; the greater part of the cargo confinied of fpirituous liquors ; and the captain and officers were in every rcfpcd gentlemen and men of fcicnce. About the time when this fliip arrived, we were informed that the tranfport vefTel from Ochotfk was driven on fhore near the river Itfha, between Bolfhoiretfk and Tigil. Captain Bering and Mr. Ba- kofF, therefore, went to that vefTel to fee if they could afTord her any affiflance ; and I received the charge of the failors, &c. here. CHAP. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 289 CHAP. XXI. The Pcnhifnla of KamtJImtka defer tied, On the return of Captain Bering and Mr. Bakoff toward Chfift- mas, I made an excurfion to Neizftini Kamtfhatka town, and re- turned to the harbour in the month of April ; which trip, in ad- dition to others whlcli I had before made, has enabled me to give the following account of the pcninfula. I fliall commence my defcription at the fouthern extremity, which the Ruflians call the Lopatka, latitude 51°, longitude 156° 40', eaft from Greenwich ; a low point of land, widening and rifmg gradually into mountains, barren and rocky, only pro- ducing here and there the creeping cedar and willow, to the ex- tent of 40 miles. Birch trees then appear in the inconfiderable vallies, which arc replete with lakes and runs of water rnfliing Into tlie fea both caft and weft. A v'lufter of mountains occupy the whole fpace frcnn the Lopatka to latitude 33" 5', where, in tlic neighbourhood of the village Malka, they divide into two branches, one trending north north-wcfl. ; tlic other, which may be called the principal chain, leads nortli north-caft. The place where the mountains feparate is the higheft land on the peninfula, and forms a barren (lony defcrt of 65 ''-''.o m length, In a di- redion north and fouth, and from 3 to 15 in width, pro- ducing in dctaclied fpots brulh-wc^od, willows, and a very few fcattered and ftunted birch-trees. It is replete with fjn-ings and P p brooks ; 290 ACCOUNT OF AK EXPFDITIOM brooks ; Ibnic of which uniting, and flowing foutli and foutli- weft, tbrm the Biftrea ; while others, at only a few iathoms dif- tance, take an oppolite courfe, and arc the Iburccs of tlie river Kamtfliatka. At tlic end of t!iis dcfert, the mountains ciofe with- in a mile or two, and a fored of birch-trees follows to the village Apoulhinfk, where the river Kaaitfliatka is navigal;le for fmall boats to its difcharge. From tliis j)lacc tlie face of the country afTumcs the appear- ance of extreme fertility. The valley widens, and the fpacc be- tween tlie mountains eafl and well is at Virchni Kamtfliatka 40 miles., The foil is deep and rich, compofed of black earth, mixed wiih fine black afiies from the burning mountains, and fine iron fand, which adheres to a magnet, and forges well with bar-iron, but ufed alone is very brittle. The producftions of nature are, a fmall kind of wild black cherry (tflieromka), in great abundance ; the wood of which, being particularly hard, is ufed by the Kamtfliadals for their guiding Hicks to the fledges : the thickcft trees that I have fcen arc nine or ten inches in circumference. Firs, common pine and larch trees of extraordinary I'lze, with birch, poplar, afp, and moun- tain-afli, clothe the mountains to their fummit. The underwoods are, currant, dog-rofc, hawthorn, alder, and buflies producing berries. The climate is very different from that of the fouthern and northern parts of the \ cninfula, the valley being completely fliel- tered from the fea-breezes that chill the air in other parts, and prove a great check to vegetation, which commences here in the month of March. The fcenery i^ beautiful beyond defeription, the TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, he. 291 the liver meandering through tlic tnidft of the valley, from 50 to 250 yards wide, and from eight to if feet d^cp, and being replete with trout .ind every fpecies of fahnon in the feafon. This valley is 180 miles in length, frequently opening profpeds of the Tolbatlhin{k, a lofty double-headed mountain, conllantly emitting an immenie column of black fmoke ; while tlie fecond volcano, Klutfiiefskoi, towering to an incredible height, illuminates the clouds with its blaze, and affords a view awfully grand. md hel- md I the bn, the Twelve verfts below Virchnoi Kanitfliatflcoi Ofirog, is the vil- hige called Milkovol, inhabited by farmers fcnt fro-.n Siberia at government expencc, and polTelling particular emoluments, for the purpofe of growing corn and pulfe to fupply the country. 'I'hey live uncontrolled, however, and find it eaficr to accumulate wealth, by a(fting as retailers for the merchants of Kamtfliatka, and going themfelves on the chafe for fables, &c. than in pur- fuing the more toiUbme labour of cultivating the earth, which they negledl. Yet they keep gardens that produce very fint cabbages, potatoes, turnips, carrots, cucumbers, &c. j they alfo grow buck-wheat and rye for their own ufe, which yield abun- dantly ; and I am inclined to think that, had they a proper in- fpe(flor to fuperintcnd their bufinefs, they might with eafe grow corn enough of every kind to fupply not only the peninfula, hut all the neighbouring countr-, Ochotfk, &c. Hemp grows re- markably well, which, honc^er, I think there is no need of cul- tivating ; for the nettle fccms equally to anfwer every purpofe. The Kamtfliadals and Ruilians make fcwing thread of it, and fa- bricate from it their fiflung nets, which fcrve them, if ufcd with caution, and properly dried, four or five years. The procefs of preparing it is nearly the fame as that for hemp, but I ihink lefs troublefomc j the nettle grows to the height of tix and feven P p 2 feet ; 2< <)i ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION f'cct ; the fibres are much finer ; and tlireacl of equal thlckncfs is (Uongcr thau that made of the imported hemp. At 'IVlhairhlufic the mountains arc broken and barren ; they encroach ujum ilie valley, and eonfiderabiy leiren its widtli. Storms are frecjuent betvvi n this volcano and tliat of Khit- fl^.efskoi, but never reach the neighbourhood of Milhovoi, and ihc trees are conliderably Lfs in fize ; but the country continues fertile as far as 30 vcrfls north of the village Klutlliefykoi, which is alfo a colony of Siberian peafants for the fame purpofe as thofe at Mllkovoi, and who adl in the fame manner. 'J'heir proceedings are in fomc ref[ieds jufliliable ; for the magillraey at Nei/.nini exadl the fame payment from them as from the refidentiary merchants. The court of juftice confiUs of a burgo-malter, four members, or rathmen, a fecrctary, writers, and watchmen ; re- ceiving a falary for the time they are in fervice : and frequently an expenfive deputation is fent to Tigil, Bolflioiretfk, Virchni, and fuch places as arc reforted to by thefe pedlars ; fo that it is a matter of doubt with me, whether the culture of the earth would render any harveft fuflicicnt to anfwer the payment of their claims. In fo:ne years they amount to 18 or 20 rubles, and in others half as much more. As you approach the north, the feverlty of the climate increafes ; the foil becomes fandy and ftoney ; and the vegetable produdions are ftunted and weak. The ifthmus is fituated in latitude 59^^ 20', and the diliance from fea to fea is here about 40 miles. The widell part is from Kronotikoi Nofs to the river Itfha, about 220 miles. I have TO THE EASTERN OCFAN. Sec. 293 f9- lie I have alrcaily mcnlionccl the fiturulcn of the town Nclzflinoi KaintdKilka, which contains Hj iibi'b, or houfcs, with two churches ; and iis iiiiinhcr of hihubitants, includhig chikhcii, 5.).8 Ibula ; luiitudc 56 ' 3 ]'. The wertcrn coall of Kamtfliaika Is uiiiformlv low and Lndv. to the dillancc of about 25 to 30 rr.llcs inl.Mul, wlicrc tlic moun- tains commence. It produces only wiliow, alder, and mountain- alb, \vi>b foinc fcattercd jxitchcs of Itimted hirch-trees. The runs of water into the fca from the mountains, do not defcrvn tbe name of rivers (except the Holiboia Kcka), though they arc all well flocked with fifh from the fea in feafon, as trout and dif- ferent fpecies of falmon. They are generally at the didanre cf 15 to 20 miles from each other. 'I he Ilflui and 'I'igil are the moll confiderable ; and neither of ihefc have a couife, with all tho windings, of more than 100 miles. The fca is fliallow to a confiderable dillance ; and the coui- mandets of the tranfport veflels, who never lofe fight of the ex- pofed coaft if they can help it, judge of their diflance from land, in foggy weather, by the foundings, allowing a fathom for a mile ; nor is there at the entrance into any of the rivers more than fix feet at low water, with a confiderable furf breaking on the fandy beach. The villages on this coaft are, Tigilfk, Itfliinfk, and Bolfliol- retfk (fituated on the Tigil, Itlha, and BoUboia rivers). Of thefe the former is the moll confiderable, containing 45 wooden houfcs, and one church. The Ruffian charts place it in lati- tude 57° SS'' '^^^is, which they call a fortified town, is fur- rounded by wooden palifiides, and was built in 1752. The num- ber. '. ♦ 194 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION ber of inhabit. I '.3 arc 338, including women and children. It- Ihinflc alfo contains a church, and about 10 houfes, with 50 in- habitants. Bolflioiretflc contains 37 houfcs, and the total number of inhabitants are 235. Befide thcfe, there are eight inconfider- able villages, containing each three or four houfes, on the wefl: coaft. The caRern coaft is compofed of mountains, rocks, rugged cliffs, and bold promontories, replete with inlets, and the appear- ance of fuch. Their entrance, however, is blocked up by reefs of rocks, the openings of which are only to be entered by the boats of the natives. Immcnfe mafles of ftonc are fcattered out at fea to the diftancc of one, two, and three miles ; fome of them being only dilcernible by the breakers, while others tower to a confiderable height. The depth of the fea varies much, and fuddenly, from 30 to 90 fathoms, and more. Earthquakes are frequent, and fometimes very violent. The only harbour for fliips on the whole peninfula is the Bay of Avatlha *, which is probably the fafelt and moll extcnfivc in the world. I fhall exert my utmoft ability to defcribe this place ; but fear that I fliall fcarcely be able to do it juftice. :H I will fuppofe myfelf approaching the coafl from the fouth- eaft. When firfi; fccn, it appears llrait and uniform, without bays or inlets ; the land rifuig into moderate mountains, backed by fuch as arc more lofty. I'hrce of them, apparently united, * " The term Ea)-, properly fpcaking, is ratlur inapplfciihlj to a place fo completely iTieltcrcd r.s Avalili.i ; hut when it is coulidered iiow loofe and va^iie fome navigators Iiave been in their dcnoirinat-cm; of ctrtai.i Jitiiationi; of ka ruid land, as liaihonrs, bays, roacls, fonndb, &c. we are not fnfixuntiy w.irranted to e/.t]ian!j;e a jiopular name, for one that may peiiiap feern more eonfiiltru witli propriety.'- Co'jL's Injl Fvj.i^^f. f are TO THE EASTERN OCEAX, ^c. 2'J5 are very conrpicuous to the north of the B.iy ; the fariheil, or tlie moft weflern, is the higheft, ai)d is conical ; the next is a volcano, diitinguiiliable by a column of fiuoke ifTuing from its fummit, which is broken ; the third prcfents feveral flat top«, lowering, and trending eaft, from which a n.urow and lofty broken and irregular point of land extends cibont 15 leagues, terminating in a promontory called Shccponflcoi Nofs. South of the bay aic two remarkably lofty mountains; that ncared: the entrance (Vi- luitfliefiioi Sopka) is formed like a fugar loaf ; the other, Apal- ikci, is fu" inland, not fo lofty, and is flat on the top. On get- ting well in with the land, it is high, craggy, and broken, preicnt- ing the appearance of inlets. When about the latitude of 52' 45 , and longitude 159^ 15', the entrance into the Bay of Avatiha difcovers itfelf, bearing north- v»e(l by weft ; fouth of which, at- the diftance of about four miles, is a fmall round illand, compofed of high pouited rocks, called Staritllikovoi Oftrov. The north cape is ablufFhead, with alight-houfe on the top of it, refembling a centiners box. From this cape eaftward, to the dillance of three miles, breakers are difcernible over hidden rocks, which extend t» the fouth about half a mile. Within the channel, are three detached needle rocks near the north fide : on the oppofite fliore a fmgle one remarkably bulky, the top of which is nearly flat. Soundings leffon from 40 to 12 fathom, over a ftoney bottom; and 10 fathom in the channel, fand and mud. Ts ely live i'Q The entrance ps in latitude 52° 51', longitude 158^ 48 , whence Sheeponfkoi Nofs bears eaft north-eaft, diftant about 17 leagues. It forms a channel in a diredion north north-weft four miles deep ; the breadth is three miles in the wideft, and two in the narroweft part ; both fliores rocky ; the fummits covered with birch treoe, mountain-alJb, and hawthorn. Having paiTcd this chunnch u . :.;5 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION channel, you enter a inoft magnificent bafin about 25 miles m circumference, completely land-locked, and every where (except tlie north-weft extremity) high, and covered with trees. As we advance in the balin, commodious harbours open : to the eaft, Rakiviaoi, about three miles deep, and three quarters of a mile V'.ide. The fouth cape is a lofty perpendicular mafs of ftone. Shoal water over rocks extend from the lliore into the bay, about 50 fathoms from fouth to north, which makes the entrance difli- cuit. The north cape is a high rocky iliore, with fome rocks that arc detaclied ; but thefc are vifible, and not of any extent .; the depth within is from 13 to 3 fathoms. The little harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul is tothe north: its fouth blufl' cape is extremely confpicuous ; and the buildings upon the Ipit of land before it are clearly difcernible. This har- bour is in every refpcd; convenient for giving fliips all kinds of repair, as alfo for obtaining fire-wood and frelli water. If all its good qualities are confidercd, I think it may be pronounced the moft convenient in the world. Six or eiglit lliips of war might be conveniently moored in it head and Hern : the only i;lcon^^- iiience (if it may be fo called) lies in the atnazip.g toughnefs of the ground ; for if the anchor be heavy, and out a-ry time, it v.'ill probably be found neceflary to heave a ftrain ow the fliip to weigh it. I'he fouth of the harbour Ls hounded by a nnvrow neck of low land running out from the c:.;l:ra lliore in a wrdcrn diredlion, covered with wooden houfcs ■•nd Lndagans ; at the ex- tremity of which is the entrance, 38 fat:;on-;s wide, and fn: and a half deep : fliips may pals fo clofc to this point of hiiivl that a man may leap on fborc. The wcil fiJc is a projefling narrow -mountain of moderate lieight trendii;r\- to tlic loutli, tcTininating in a bluff head, upon which is a baitcrv of rlu'cc ^uus, a;d a flai'-. Iroiu TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 297 rrom this extremity a fhoal extends fouth about 100 fatlioins. The north, which is the head of the harbour, is' bounded by a valley, in which are the government magazines, barracks, and the dwelling houfes of the commander and chief inhabitants. To the eaft, it is bounded by lofty mountains covered with wood to the very fummit ; namely, birch, mountain-alh, hawthorn, dwarf- cedar, rofc-buflies, Sec. On this fide are feveral fprings of very pellucid water rulhing down the mountains into the ! ..rlour, and thefe are very convenient watering places. The bay is bounded to the north-weft by the extenfive plains of Avatfha, where two rivers difcharge themfelves into it ; namely, the Avatfha and Paratounca. At the eftuary of the former, the Kamtfliadals, who formerly refided in the harbour, have their prefent habitations ; while the troops of the garriion poflefs their late dwellings. The harbour of Tarelnlk opens to the weft : the entrance is about one mile in length, when it fuddenly turns to the fouth- caft, extending twelv J miles in length, and three in width : the depth is from fix to eight fathoms, mud and fand. A narrow neck of high land at the bottom, like an artificial partition, fe- parates it frorr, ihe fea. This harbour, although extremely con- venient in its conttruQion, is not fo in its fituation ; js an eafterly wind is abfolutcly nccelfary to bring outward bound velTels into the bay of Avatilia where it is quite contrary ; befides, it is ex- pofcd to the north and north -weft winds, which blow over tlie plains of Avatflia right into it^ and keep it blocked up by ice till late in the feafon. Qji Near 298 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION Near the mouth of this harbour, on its north-weft: borders, is a valley forming a plain of about one mile and a half fquare, well wooded with good fizcd birch trees : a fituatlon which Major Behm thought the moft eligible of any hereabouts for a town. North and fouth are lofty mountains of eafy afcent, covered with tiees to their fummit. The valley is bounded to the weft by a frefli water lake of about 15 miles in circumference, well ftocked with fifli all the year through ; while its borders abound in dif- ferent kinds of berries, farana, tflieromtfha (a kind of wild garlick), and a variety of pot herbs. This lake is the chief fource of the river generally known by the name of the Paratounca, of which I ftiall Ihortly give an account, as alfo of the other rivers. The remains of numerous villages in the vicinity of this lake ftrongly indicate the former populoufnefs of thefe parts j but they are at prefent overrun with bears, wolves, and hares. The fifh of the bay of Avatflia are, cod all the year througli ; thornbacks, flounders, and halibuts, as foon as the ice begins to break ; whitings are caught all the winter by the boys and girls, who make a hole in the ice, lie flat upon it, and look into the water, holding in it a horle-hair noofe on the end of a ftick, which they get round the fifli, and by thefe means haul them up very faft. Herrings and fmelts are the firft paflage filh that appear (the former in iinmenfe flioals towards the latter end of April), and they remain till the beginning of June : their num- bers, indeed, are incredible. In Cook's laft voyage Captain Km"- fays, " The people of the Difcovery furroundcd fuch an ama/ino- " quantity (of herrings) in their feine at one time, that they were " obliged to tlirow out a very t^nifKlerablc number, left the net *' iliould be broken • and the cargo tl^ey landed was ftill fo abun- " danr, TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, Sec: 299 " dant, that, befidcs having a fafficlent flock for Immediate ufe, *' they filled as many calks as tlicy could conveniently fpare for " fakhig ; and, after lending on board tlic Refolution a tolerable *' quantity for the fame purpofe, they left behind feveral bufliels " upon the beach." I i' >S ;te \ct u- ntj On the 7tl June, In the inner harbour of St. V'eter and St. Paul, I obfervcd, at the flood tide, a confidcrable number of her- rings fvvlmming round in circles of about a fathom hi diameter. Seeing them continue in this particular manner, I approached very near them, and remarked, in each of the circles, one fifti very clofe to the ground, upon the weeds, and apparently with- out motion. I could not account for this peculiarity in their fvvimming, but thought that the weeds about the lierring in the middle became of a very lively yellow colour. When the tide ebbed, and left thefe places dry, all the weeds, flone=, (licks, &c. were covered with fpawn about half an inch thick, which the dogs, gulls, crows, and magpies, were devouring with great avidity. Thefe flaoals of herrings, which are purfued by feals, cod, &c. come in fpring and in the autumn j there is, however, a confidcrable difference in their fize j and I believe the fpring glut are the largeft fifli. The natives and other inhabitants cnfnare a great quantity in autumn for their dogs., The oil extracted from herrings is very pellucid and fweet ; 't prefer ves birds' eggs all the year quite frelh and good, as docs alfo the oil of feals, whales, &c. Herrings no fooner difappear, than immenfe flioals of llilmon pufli into the bay and up the rivers; the firft is the fmallcr fort, called the. gorbufhka (or hunch-back), from a remarkable protu- Qj\ 2 tuber ance 300 ACCOUNT OF AN EXrEDITION berance which cUainguiflics this fpecics. They are in great per- fedion about four or five weeks ; and arc no fooner in a ftate of decay, than another and hirger fpecies follows. Thefe are fuc- ceeded by other forts, all of the falmon kind, until the end of September. I. could not diftinguifh fome forts till they were boiled, when the palencfs or rednefs of the flefli indicated a dif- ference. The names of the different fpecies are, fiomga, tfhavitflia (both very large), gorbuflika, kaiko, krafnaia (red), and belaia (white). They pufh up the rivers, and get into the lakes, where the two latter continue all the winter, but get extremely deformed, crooked-backed, thin, and covered with red blotches ; the upper jaw extends bevond the under jaw, and bends over it j tlie mouth is full of very large teeth, and the flefli is flabby. Here are alfo o-reat varieties of crabs, lea eggs, prawns, mufcles, cockles, and the fmall pearl oyfler. The plains of Avatflia, which bound the bay to ihe north-wefl, extend i8 miles from eaft to wefl, and ^^ miles from north lo fouth, producing at their northern extremity only a few patches of birch, poplar, and alders j all the refl are marfhy grounds, Gvero-rown with ruflies and coarfe high grafs, with fome fpots of oziers and alders j the refort of myriads of water fowl, fvvans, geefe, an amazing variety of the duck kind, and I believe every fpecies of fnipe. The river Avatflia runs in feveral branches throufi^h this plain. Towards its northern extremity are an iui- inenfe number of cold fpring'-., that form feveral bafins of water, with fmall runs, uniting in a rivulet, which has a courfe towards the fouth of two miles, and empties itfelf into the river generally known by the name of the Paratounca, but which is called by the natives Umitfh ; and the original Paratounca is the run from the fprings above mentioned, cppofite to the difchargc of which the village of that name is lituated, Thefe fprings do not freeze TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 301 freeze in winter, during which rec'>.ron they are frequented by fwans, gecfe, and feveral fpccics of duck, particularly the fafka, or duck with a melodious note, which has induced me to fl;ile it mufical. Here they find an abundance of food, and the pulpy root of an aquatic plant which, in its appearance, exaflly re- fembles the olive, but is like the chcfnut in flavour : I ufed it as a vegetable, and thought it better than any produdlion of the gardens : the natives call it the farana of the geefe. With regard to rivers, the Kamtfliatka is the only one of any confcquence. Its fource I have already defcribed : it flows nearly north to Ncizdini Kamtfliatka, wliere it turns to the eafl: fouth- cafl; about 25 miles, and empties itfelf into a large but fliallovv bay formed by the Kronotflcoi and Kamtfl\atflcoi promontories ; its difcliprge is extremely ihallow, not exceeding eight feet at high water, and the breakers are very violent with an eaflierly breeze. This, however, is the only navigable river on the peninfula. The Bolflioia Rcka has only a courfe of 20 miles. It is formed by the union of the Byftrea with the Natfheke, a little below Bol- flioiretflc : the former has its rife from the fprings near the fource of the Kamtfliatka, and takes a fwecp from fouth to weft ; the latter commences a little fouth of the village Natfheke, and flows nearly weft about 100 verfts : neither are navigable, though, during the fpring flood, the natives fometimes venture down them in their canoes, but with great difficulty, owing to ra- pids, &c. 'H ;zc T^ie Avatflia has alfo an Interrupted and unnavigable courfe of 70 verfts in a di,re<^ion eaft fouth-eaft. The inhabitants of the village 302 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION village Korlatflc, 20 miles up this river from its dlfchargc, pafa up and down it in their canoes, hauling them over the flats. The Ilmltfli, commonly called the Paratounca, has its rife from near the Vihiitihifkoi Sopka (called in Cook's lafl: voyage the Paratounca) ; and from a lake already dcfcribcd near the Tarein- fkoi harbour, it makes a circuit of 85 verfts, and difchargcs itfelf into the bay of Avatfha, only three miles in a dircdt line from its fourcc : it is navigable for boats all the way ; but I was fourteen hours in traverfing the whole of this river, from the lake, in a canoe. The villagers of Parafounca go on the chafe of deer, ar- gali, bears, &c. about the lourcc of this river, by palfing down the dream into Tareinfki harbccir, and hauling their canoes over the plain already mentioned into the lake. An immenfc number of rivulets from *he mour.'ains flow to the call: into the ocean, but none of them are cither remarkable, or have their banks in- habited. Here are no lakes of any extent : the names of the principal ones are, Ofernoi, about 40 miles from Cape Lopatka ; Kronot- iltoi, 20 miles fouth-eaft of Tolbatfliinfki volcano ; and another of lefs extent, fituated about 40 miles north of 'NeizQini Kamt- fliatka, called Nerpitfhl : the natives fay that they are replete with full ; and tradition relates, that the fifh of thefe lakes had two heads, or that they pofleflcd legs ; and, being facred to fome deity or demon, thofe who preiumed to enfnare them were pu- nifhed with m.sfortunes ; fome of the natives, however, feem to doubt the truth of this, while others ftill firmly believe it. Hot . ' ' ' \fa / '' • m\ he iii- elf its •en I a • ar- I ;, 1 vcr ber an, in- ipal lOt- her mt- lete had )me pu- 1 to Hot i|; 4' ^ K >v .N ^ k TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, Sec. |e3 ' Hot fprlngs are very numerous, and feem fcattered all over Kamtfhatka ; but thofc in the following places are the moft re- • t c r markable : . '" • • * ': ^ ■s. ;^ V I Opalfki, or Ofernol, fituated nearly midway between the Lo- patka and Bolll'oiretfk, about 15 miles fouth of the K?,rijr.il« M-ial village of "V '^', furrounded by mountains, and 1 <^^;n at diftance fr. no of Opalfk, They occupy a va ky of confiderablc ad are fcattered to the diftance of fix miles, fome parts of which produce detached birch trees, the fwect plant, &c. ; but in general the foil is barren, compofed of different co- loured marl, and large ftones which appear to have been fcattered by eruptions of fome volcano. The largeft hot fpring is at the foot of one of the mountains ; and we heard the noife that it made at the diftance of near a mile before wc came to it. It is about fix fathom in circumference, boiling up to a confiderable height ; the middle appears like a cauldron ; and a piece of beef placed in it was very well boiled in a fhort time : all around, it bubbles up between large ftones j it then divides into two ftreams, which defcend over tones, and unite at the bottom with a fmall rivulet formed by the other fprlngs to the north : they flow a little way to the fouth, then turn weftward into the lake Ofernoi. About the border of thefe fprings, and the rivulet which they form, we obferved petrified, or rather calcarifed, foliage of the fweet plant, birch leaves, Ricks, &c. of a beautiful whitenefs ; but fo extremely delicate in their texture, that we could not preferve any, even in cotton ; for they mouldered to duft. The Kamt- . fliadals fuppofe this to be the habitation of fome demon, and make a trifling offering to appeafe his wrath ; without which, they fay, he fends very dangerous ftorms. Our naturalift and Mr. Varonin, who afcended to thefe fprings in 1790, experienced 14 a whirl- II . IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ J^^€^. 1.0 I.I ■^IIIM ■ JO '""^^ til Uk IIIIIM 2.2 ^ 1^ liiio 1.8 1-25 1.4 lil.6 lllll:^ ^ 6" ► V] <^ /2 v: ■^. //a '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ 3^4 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION a whirlwind, which tore their tent, and fcattered Its contents about, many of which were never found again. Arties were fcattered upon the fnow about four inches deep, refei-nbling coarfe gunpowder, probably from the volcano Alaid (a folitary moun- tain in the fea,fituated about 20 miles fouth-weft of the Lopatka), which burns violently at this time (February 1793). It has at various intervals emitted fmoke ever fmce 1790. The oldeft in- habitant does not remember its having done fo before, althougu tradition informs them of its violent eruptions. Toward the fource of the Byftria, near the village Malka, arc hot fprings, a little way up the afcent of one of the mountains, which boil out of the earth in two or three places about a foot wide. Similar fprings are feen near the village Natfhcke, but more extenfive, and forming in their run feveral convenient bathing-places, Thefe have a fulphureous fmell ; and the ftones taken from the bottom of the openings, where the fprings appear, are covered with a fhining thin coat, which refembles filver at firft, but gets dull and of a dark colour after it has been fome- time expofed to the air : the furrounding earth, to the diftance of 20 fathoms in every diredion, is warm, replete with empty fhells like thofe of fnails, and a tranfparent glutinous fubftance ; as alfo with fpots of loam, whereon any thing heavy being thrown fmks immediately. South of thefe fprings, about the diftance of 30 verfts, at the fource of the river Natfheke, is a fandy level fpot, with feveral hot fprings, the water of which is faid to be brackifti. - At the diftance of 1 2 verfts from the village of Paratounca, In a direftion north-weft, is the difcharge of a deep rivulet of warm water, called Klutftievoia, navigable for canoes three verfts up- wards. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, 5cc. 305 wards. It fprlngs from feveral hot water lakes iti an extenfive plain J one of which lakes is about 100 fathoms long, and 7 fathoms wide ; very convenient for bathing near the fhore, but the middle very deep, and extremely hot. About 20 fathoms from this is another, about 5 fathoms by 7, but excefllvely hot : a body of boiling water ifllies through a fquare hole in a ftone at the eaftern extremity ; and it has a run into a cold water fpring, fo narrow, that you may ft and with one foot in each. Ulcers, old and frefh wounds, are reputed to heal from bathing in this water. I ufed it for tea, but the flavour was not very agreeable, being fomething like that of alum. The hot fprings of Shumat- fliik are fituated 90 verfts north of the bay of Avatlha, and flow into Kronotfkoi Bay. There are feveral others, but of no note. Ik g ft I |a, m ^irm |s up- ,'ards. The following are the principal volcanoes : Opalflc : I have defcribed this mountain as feen from the fea. Its fituation is near the hot fprings ; but its emlfllon of columns of fmoke is of very recent date, and they are not confl:ant; nor has it ever been obferved to blaze. — ViluitftijOr Viluitftiifkoi Sopka : this feems now completely extinguiftied : — Avatfha, 25 miles north of the bay, conftantly fends forth a body of fmoke from its fum- mit ; as does alfo Tylbatfti, and Klutftiefflvoi, or Kam ;(hat(koi Sopka, both fituated near the river. Tylbatfli (frequently written Tolbalflainfk) is one of the mountains that conftitute the eaftern chain ; but projeds confiUerably towards the river. It is more lofty than the reft, and has a pointed top. A little way down it, a (harp ridge ftretches away to the north ; from this ridge, and the fide of the mountain where it joins, the fmoke ilfues. I have obferved, in a clear night, a reflexion over it, refenibling the Aurora Borealis. Klutflicffkol volcano may be reckoned among R r the S0(5 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION the higheft peaks, I believe, In the world. It is fituatcd 175 miles weft of Bering's ifland, from which, however, it is diftinftly feen in clear weather at the time of the fun's fetting : at leaft, I am allured of this by feveral Kamtfhadals who have been on the ifland. This volcano is frequently fubjedl to eruptions : in 1789, on the 2otli November, a great noife preceded an earthquake ; flames burft forth, with difcharges of fmall Hones and aflies : the trembling of the earth and the noife continued, more or lefs, til^ the 23d, when it abated confiderably ; but on the 15th February 1790, it again refumed its former violence until the 21ft: all this time earthquakes were felt two or three times in the courfe of every 24 hours. — Shevelutlh is 80 verfts north of Klutfhefflcoi : this burnt formerly ; but now it feldom happens that fmoke iifues from it : this volcano is the fource of two rivulets, the Ilt- fliutfli and Bakus, both of which flow into the Kamtfliatka. ; I- It S' 111 l\ I' . '! I ■' ' The number of inhabitants may be ftated as follows, men, women, and children : At the town (Neizflinoi) Oftrog Tigil Virchnoi Bolfhoiretflc And at the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul Colonifts Ruflians - « - Kamtfliiadals - 548 338 226 85 1687 Total - - 2740 Of the natives ^s 1 males only pay tribute, or, rather, are living on the lift of thofe who are tributary, according to the revifion made TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c 307 made during the government of Mr. Rcinikin, vvlio fuccccded Major Bchm. The revifor (in 1784), by ibmc unaccountable mirtake, has frequently noted the name of one and the fame per- fon as the inhabitant of two or three villages ; and from each village the tribute is exaded for this man. Tlicy have made re- peated remonftranccs, but in vain : this impofition, however, is the leaft of their fufterings. They are compelled to pafs the greater part of their time in procuring neceflaries for their vifi- tors. The governor makes his annual circuit round the penin- fula, and receives a prefent from every individual ; the captain of the diftridl goes his rounds twice ; different deputations from the courts of jufllce, foldiers on furlough, couriers, &c. all travel at the expence of the poor native, who is compelled to keep an ex- traordinary number of dogs for their conveyance. Government horfcs are quartered at each village, and the inhabitants muft provide a (lock of hay for them. Tims the Kamtfliadal fcarcely finds time to colled a fupply of food in the fifliing feafon for his own family. In 1768 the fniall-pox carried off 53C8 of the inhabitants ; and fmce the departure of Major Bchm, the court of the interior (Zemflcoi Sud) has difcovered, that the Kamtfhadals are indebted to government the whole tribute for the unfortunate fufferers by that diforder, and lay claims at prefent for the debt. The na- tives produce receipts ; but are told, that an ukafe from Irkutfk claims the payment. They appointed a delegate to lay their grievances at the feet of their fovereign ; he, however, only reached Irkutfk, when he was promifed redrefs, and fent back again : he returned laft year, and is the chief of Shapinlki village, a very intelligent man, and, I thought, very likely to help me to R r 2 feme ' « '\oii ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION fomc Information as to their former cilfloms and religion, which are now quite aboliflacd ; nor is their language pure. He told me, that tlie Kamtfliidals called themfelves Itolmatfli (he fays they are the Aborigines of the place), and the dcfcend- ants of Newlleach or Newchtfliatfh, and that their God was New- fteachtfliitfh. Koutka is his intelligent fpirir, the nieflcnger of vengeance to their tormenting demons, and of rewards to the fpirits of benevolence : he travels about in an invifible carriage drawn by flying animals rcfembling mice, but fmallcr than the human mind can conceive, and fwlft as a flafli of lightning. ** Our Sorcerers (faid he) were obfervers of omens, and warned us of approaching dangers, to avert which facrlfices were made to the demons : wc were then wealthy, contented, and free.'* He continued his difcourfe thus as nearly as I could tranflate : I think our former religion was a fort of dream, of which wc now fee the reality. The Emprefs is God on earth, and her " ofiiccrs are our tormentors : we facrificc all that wc have to appeafe their wrath, or wants, but in vain. They have fpread diforders among us, which have dertroyed our fathers and mo- thers ; and robbed us of our wealth and our happinefs. They have left us no hopes of redrefs ; for all die wealth that we could colled for years would not be fufficient to fecure one advocate in our intereft, who dares reprefent our diftrefs to our fovereign." i( (I ii (( it (( i( h ■\ They are an honeft and hofpitable race of men, extremely fond of mufic and of brandy. One of them, who conftantly ac- companied me in my aquatic excurfions, and expended every farthing of his money in brandy, I one day faw coming to my habitation ; and, to tempt him, I hid myfelf in an adjoining room. TO THE EASTERN OCEAN, &c. 300 room, leaving a glafs of brandy upon the tabic, and a bottle half full clofe to it, with fome fea-bifcuit. He came in, faw nobody, and called me, but obtained no anfwer. Upon which he advan- ced to the table, and fmelt to the glafs : " It is brandy," laid he, *' but I will not drink ; and the bottle half full ; well, I won't " tarte you ; but I'll go and fcek mafler, and fcold him for " leaving you in this manner. I'll jufl: fnicU agaui, and go." — 1 ftepped out of window into the garden, and went to meet him ; when he accortcd me in the following manner : " I have been into your room and faw a glafs full of brandy ; perhaps you won't believe me, but indeed I did not tafte it." — " I dare fay you did." — " No, by G — , I did not : I knew you would not believe me ; but a Kamtfhadal will never take any thing without permiflion." — " Well, I muft believe you ; will you " come and drink it ?" — " Yes, that I will j but I wanted to fcold " you for leaving it fo." <( (C C( l( {( They have long fincc adopted the manners of the RufTians, and profefs the Greek religion. Of their former cufloms there only exift their lafcivious dances, and their impure language, with part of the drefs. They entertain the greateft veneration for the memory of Major Behm, under whofe command they enjoyed, the protedion of a father. At that time Kamtfhatka was go- verned merely by the major and his afliftant. Captain ShmalefF, without any other court of juftice. The revenue of this penin- fula was then 40,000 rubles annually, arifing from the tribute of the natives, the profits on brandy, and the duty on furs j which fum was remitted to the chancery of Ochotfk : a trading expedi- tion in two or more open boats was yearly undertaken by the natives, accompanied by the prieft of the peninfula, to the Kuril iflands ; from whence they obtained fea-otter fldns of a fuperior quality, \\9 ACCOVKV ov A\ rxpininoN «|u\litv, (vvoi,\l ).\|vuK-(i' .niu Ion, .uul wnMi)\ht lilks. '\'\w hum ».li,\nt» who villi. (I I Ik- inninlula bn»\»}\h( o\\wv nciTllaiioM, aiKl lv\r«l in.M\t V \y\\ U\o iiiulos ol tlio tmtivoR. Uraiuly tu»l luiii|i, »otituKtv*l .(s i\i\ ;\U\vU' «>l n.\«K', 1m\i i\ }!,ovcmmtM\l cimuimh, tin* iaU- \v.(s pto1\\l>iU\l ; M\^, tin' roinmnmlor (>i Ivi^ ;\llilli\nl inlpoCl • liij; thr n.nil.»ClivM\s «>1 llic incuhiwitH, |M0VOiUi'»l lr.uhl\iUM\t y\o^ ivcilinj\s on both liilos. AI^mU tlu' l;\tlri ciul ol llio vo.n i;;i)» or the bc|\\\\ninj\ of 1780, Mmjoi lUlnu ivuinuni \o Si. lVtnll>iii|',. M.\ioi Koinikin l\uvooilo«I him in ihp ion\inaihl, jnul ui(hi«I to imvoihuo .uiuMij; ihv n.uivos ihr « vihviio ol thr carlh, hui vonl.l not <\uvocil ; ho hrt>\i;\i\t |MMi»too looils with hiiu ; inll );icw \]\y\\\ in his own o.\uU n ; anil Itom ihoiioo thov woio ahiiiuliUillv *l)lhih\iiOil .ill moi iho poninlul.i, \viih ovoi y Ipooios ol' }»;mlon vo}tci.\hlos. vvhioh aio oullivaioil wilh [\voat I'uoccis Iiy ihc Riillian inhahiiaiUs. In iho vo.u' I 7S ; a ni,u\»lalo iVoin hoi Iiupoiial M.ijollv f>r,i /.y.;,rW Noi/thni Kaintlhalka a oitv ; ovvlainoil it (he loal »)l" i»o- vcrm^cni oliho oonmvy \iiuloi iho ohanocry of Oohotik ; oH'orcil piivilo}\os to luoh nuMohanis as oholc to hcoonic hnrj\hcr» ; and intlitiUcil oouvts <>!" jullioo, ollaMilhn\cnts hctlcr oaKnilatcil to p,o- vcrn ;oo,ooo mon than is 00, whioh is ahoiit the nutnhcr <'l ina!o inhabitants. "^I'ho }\ovomot was Jonominatcd CJonnhiit- ihik (n\avoi) ; a\\k\ his cllahlilhinont oi>nlilh ol' a loorotary ami ^viitofs; a Ka;natfhol\va (cxohctpjoi) lor tho rooript of the fc- vcnno, anvl paviuont ol' t^Ukcrs ; a /icnilkoi 8ud (oonrt ol' the interior), of which tho lipiavnik, or oaptain of tho ilillrid, is pro- fulont, aiul in this oomt ono of tho natives is a nioinhcr to rcprc- I'cnt the whole hoily ; with a luai^illiaoy to regulate mcrcaiuilc concerns, as already incnlioncd. The TO TIIK r.A'JIT.UNocr./VN, ^^^ ,,, Tl.r (i,hu!cR ..llovvod l.y ,v»vu.n,nci.l u, ,|,o Mhcul oHiccis rt.o 'I'lu- (Jprndiiillliik N lli'j Sriiitrtiy • , ^ 'I'lio Kii/imtlliM,' , ^ ll|»riiviiiki nlhc- ollircH ld« in luopmilon j lu.nc ul" ti.e writer l.«vi..K cu.ly .'4 niMi'q pi'i iniiiiinu ^•"" mblci. .1'"' 400 t'id'r III Aillil.i I'/yj, l.incn (or llihtM per aillircii ♦ lioolH juM pair 'riirciul Il(»ikiii|f8 do. tSonp per 11). ('(iiullrH «!(». . , Tea tin. I,Oiil f«)I»a<:cu pri liN. Uyc (ItMii, |)ci- pood ♦ Wlicat do. Rice per III). • Kktiii. • H (Op. ♦ 3 «•>•'>. I J! 5 cop. n cop. H top. V, ml). 50 cop. 5 cop. fto 10 KniMilliNiliii, I in cop, ti to iH rill). 4 »<» 5 ml). r»o to 1 00 cop* Wo to 100 cup. ti ml). 3 nib. .'{ ml). 500 cop, Hofj top. loo cop. l-min tl.if. (latcinci.t of prI. en, the impo/Fil.ilify of an ofntci ilvin,; upon I.iHlalary will plainly appear; he \h ll.crriorc corn- pellet! to lind out (oine meiliod ofincrearinK |u« income, at tl.c expence of the poor iiativeti. ()iic of tlic captainn t.f the didria, who c/imc here with his ^vifc aiul family, frndiii}; l.imCcIf extremely di/lreJlal. appropriated • A [uMMl i. 40 Ik Kuril, o. ,r, 11,. K„,;li(F.. ,00 c;',|.r«ki tn.kr n ri.l.Ir ; « col,#,fc "iny be rcikoneJ luilr inoic (l.au « Jarll.ing Ilrrling. y »r/li«f»i make 7 y»f'J#. the v« ACCOUNT OK AN l-.XIM'.DI TION ihe tiil)Ufc of one year to his own iifo, nml wrote a letter to the I'lUjMcls ; rtalinj':, that the ilvcrlly of the climate, the prices of every article ot lilc, ami the wantfi ol ]\U latnily, hail coinpclled him to make ul'e of the trihutc, conlilUiig of inch a nuinhcr ui' fables ami fox Ikins lor their I)ack;j ami hellicH, which he rather chole to ilo tlum roh the poor nalivea ((he only alternative). lie reipiclleil her pardon, and an appointment ^licre he could live upon his falary ; and the indnllry of his family (of no benciit in Kamt(hatka) might help to repay the amount of the articles that he had appropriated to his own ule. The Kmprcfs ordered the governor to give him fueh an appointment, and pardoned him on account of the good rcafons that he alligncd ; hut this pardon was not to be regarded as a precedent ; for fuch mercy was not to be extended to any future perfoii who Ihould dare to ad in the fame manner. The maglftracy receives its Income from the burghers and mc- riianln. The latter arc privileged pcdlcrs (and tlic coloniils arc of the number) ; the former are divided into three elalles, ac- cording to the extent of the capital that tliey give in, upon which they pay one per cent. French brandy is now regarded as an article of trade ; and a fpurlous fort is carried about the vilLigcs of the natives, who are very fond of it, and pay for it at the rate of one ruble per glafs. The Kamtfliadals and refulentiary RufTians employ theml'clves during the funimcr in catching lilh ; drying fomc, and faking others for a winter fupply for themfelvcs and their dogs : in the auluiun, In making hay for their cattle, colleiling berries, the 6 fwcct TO THE EASTERN OCEAN. &c. 3,3 fwect plant, a.ul kiprcy ; the former is pi.rchafcd by Kovern- mcnt for the climil.ry of hra.uly, at three and four roubles the pood .vhcn prepared and dried. In the fpriuR they eolledt birds CKRH al>ont the marO^es. and particularly amonR the roeka at the mouth of the bay of Avatfl.a : thofe they prcfervc all the year with oil, as already mentioned. Sf C II A P. 3'4 ACCOUNT OF AN EXPFniTION CHAP. xxir. h The /. and kindnefs of ih.c inhjhi- tanls. Ihopc, hoxvcver^ that I fhill Jl'tll he able to give a belter oc- count ofthcfe unknown regions hereafter ^ from perfonal obfcrvalion. I remained in Yakutfk with Captain Billings till the 2d of January 1794, when we departed in Hedges for the city of Ir> kutfk, where we arrived ahout the middle of the fame month, and met with all the officers of the Expedition. \Vc were here informed, that Lord Macartney was in China on an embaHy from Great Britain, which led to various con- jedures ; but had I received any intimation of his being expcdcd there while I was in Kamtfliatka, or at Ochotfk, I ihould mofl certainly have paid my perfonal refpeds to His Excellency in Pekin. The The following is all the intelligence that I could procure of Captain Billings's expedition acrofs the land of the Tfliutfki j and for it lam indebted to the journal of one of the party. Auguft 13.—" At nine o'clock this morning we departed from the bay of St. Laurence, and firll croffed to tlie fouth-lide, when the baidars were hauled fometimes by tlie Tihutlki, and fome- times by harneifed dogs running along the beach. We pafTcd three villages belonging to the natives, and halted at a fourth for the night. The huts were dug under ground, and covered with earth. They were of a fquare form, with a fire-place in the middle, and four large ftones made the hearth. They have no wood, but burn the bones of whales, pouring the oil of fca ani- mals if ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION mals upon them. Each fide of the hut contains a polog, or low tent, made of leather, to fit and fleep in. " Our firft arrival among them did not promife much happI-> ncfs in their company; ibr, not knowing their language, we were obliged to treat with them by .figns *, for fuel, water, &c. to boll our food, and pay for it immediately. Obferving our good nature, and want of power, however, they at length took a liking to the butt>>; s on our coats, which they cut off without ceremony ; they alfo ftole our fnuff-boxes j and without any hefitation paid a vifit to our portmanteaus, in hopes of finding tobacco and iron. " The men were tall and flout, drefled in a neat park (refem- bling a carter's frock), made of the ikins of different animals bordered, tight pantaloons of doe-lkin, and boots of feal-fkin ; the head uncovered, and the hair cut ihort. The warrior has his legs and arms pundtured, fo as to denote the number of the enemy that he has flain, and the prifoners he has taken. " The women were alfo well made, above the middle fize, healthy in their appearance, and by no means difagreeable in their perfons. Their drefs was of doe-lkin, with the hair on j and one garment covered their limbs and their body :. this is a park, with roomy pantaloons fewn to it, and fleeves down to the wrift». They put the legs into the opening at the neck, where it ties, as alfo below the knee. Long boots of rein-deer's legs, with the hair on, are drawn up, and tie over the above drefs at the knee. They wear their hair parted, and in two plats, one hanging over I cannot conceive where Dauerkin, thefr interpreter, was at tin's time. each J'atff 320. riatt xnr. .Ilf.iflilt/rr ihf. ' ^*'"X^*' •^^tiifS ( '• '.i///f/.iA'f ''i>///tfH, . I'lihlishcl Mmrh V :' i(%>! . /] APPENDIX. No. I. Engi;m. Vuk.irii. V.ikut. Tungooft. South Pondzfliirka putcl (mid-day) Sogrec S'immcr Puga Sacin, foyin Anganal W'iiit.-i- Zfhendflia Kifun Autumn Nada Kuiflin, kuifan Spring Pora Saas Year Nejunmolgul ■Si! Angan Timi; Indada Tlhitfliimtfliec F.rtli Levje Sirr Tor Water Ond/flii X)o Moo Sea Tdiobul Baighal Nam r,al;e J'lgyi Koel River Onnong Yiris, yrrach Okat Rivulet Onnongi, nalit(ha Okatfliaii Waves Moincliaija Duogun Biaiga inaiul Ommiil Aire Saiul Nongha Kumach Ooneang Clay Dull Glina Boar Telba Pogintflii Boar kotta Ch-cngelreii Dirt Kunduii Barri (Hill) mountain Pea Seer Shore Ighil Kittx Ch-oolin Depth Height Tlhaginmou Dirring Choonta Pudenmai Irduk Oikiafookun Breadth Kanbrnuiai Ketit Demzflia Length Td.itnai Uftata Ghonamin Hole Kondzflia Cliaiagas Ciiangar Grave, or ditch Inghij Een Chooneram Rock Pea, alfo (lone, mountain Taas Dzfliool Iron Lundal Timir Salt I^ogodmuniinu, and Nimedzlhindiha Tus Tak Weeds Oolega, alfo grafs Keoch Orat Tree Tilvall M.ifs A wood Jungul Tya Kenita Root Larkul Turd?e Kobkaii Stump Koikel THiongatfliok Bark Tfliangar Clialterik Oorta Branch Tfhilga Bufuk Car Leaf PaldlhitOia Seberdak Lbdcrnia Flower APPENDIX. No. I. [7] Enpliih. Vuk«s!r. VHkyf. Tungeorf, Flower Pociri Dzfhufiu iJcrryr Lcvicndi Otton I'idd (plain) Pondlli.irkoni Cliodu fafir licit Talau Kocil Boyun Fifli AuMil Dalyk Oira Worms KjInindOia lyenc Ogil Frog Aliiiidala Baga Fly Nilcndonia Zachfirga Ant Joj.ikonilzdia Kmirdagas Spider Mana^adaibi Oguigos Argali, (hccp (wild) Moiiogli'i Ooyamkan Dog Tabaha n Nin Moufe TlhalbGc Kutuyak. Tflialooktflian Goofc Landzflia Erbatfh Duck Ondzfliinonda, wa- ter-bird • Neki Feathers Pugelbi, or hairs of beads Charungatfli» Detle Eggs Nontondaul Simmit Oomta Neft Awoot Oyo and Oyetto Shepherd ItHiel Man i fit Hut Numa Balagan Dzflio Door Anbandangel Dzflicl Oorka Hearth Evier Kolumtan Nerka Floor (earth) Liebe Sir Hatchet Noomundzfhi Sugai Tabor Knife Tfliagoia Bufak and Buhak Boat AktflicI Bat Carrying Ellt-yik Tcyachpit Building Ank Ongroch Cloaths Maajil Tangas Food Lagul Aas Raw Onje Sikai Drefled Panduk Bufar Thief Olonunga Orfach Dzfliioormiii War Ncretihangate, and Chimdzfliingi Serri Chooniat Quarrel Uledangi Jegu Yegu • Dzfliargamat Fighting Chimdzfliingi Ellerfy Koofikatfliiii Spear Tfliovina Innie Guard Itfliell Kettebil Goodatfli ^l''^- Diftrefs [8] APPENDIX. No. I. ■v :. I rnglirti. Yukaplr. Yakut. Tiingoofe. iriarcfi Oo-ilgaitfli Aldzfliarkoi Urgadoo Vidoiy Aldzfliitfli Samnardabit Dabdaran Triend Aghema 15oghor r.ncmy Irritfliundzniitoroma evil difpofed man Eftiagun S?rvniit Poa Kolutang and • Aluindfiu Toyon ■\Vritiiig Tfliorillatnio Surrui Numbers Tfhungum Aclifi One Irken Bir Oomun Two Antach!on Ikke DzlllUT '1 lircc l.ilon Em's Elan Four lelahlon lirt Digon rive Enganlon Bes Tongon Six Malgliialon Alta Kilkok !icven Purchion Setti Etgatanok Eiglit Malgialachlon Ogos Tfliokotenok Nine Chuniirki-ellendz- fliien Tagos Tfliakatanok Ten Kuni-clla On Tfliomkotak Tweuty Attachongonicila Surbey Katfliat-kotako l')L-gii;ning Kudal.iraga Manna gitta (■-u'.ing ItOiagi Kotdiu gitta Ves T,;t Ak, ahj ch Ya No Oil-y Socli Atcha No-vV Indiiflii Billigir. Dz(])oo!e B.f.vc Ang-iunia Oonut Efllmek After Indada Chodzflilt S-fi Here 'Jia INI.uma Ilicre Ta'ay Oniio Tala Yclkra.iy Ntn^.'n(lf!iff B.-gliall'e To-chy roudyiliirkon'.a 13;-|;un To-nicrrow ()r.j;r'-ij S.irlia I.ook lU'AV Tir.,lii Boo Er Kondarni-.l Chaitak - On V/hcre Kf)]io Kanna Ill?y Wiiai Ciiantiin Kan.m Ok Wh-.it Liomlcirtak Tugui Ek \V!io Chinetta Kiminen Ni Witli v/liat laimun Tugonon Etfh Uuclcr 'ratigmuinal Allara Ergudalin Upon Pudcndago EufHe Widalin. VOCABU No. ir. VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGES OF KAMTSHATKA, THE ALEUTAN If OF KADIAK. ISLANDS, AND GEiigiid.. OD Father IVIothcr Son Daughter Brother Sifter Ili'fband Wife Maiden Boy Child Man People Head Face Nofe Noitrils Eye Bro\\s Jjsihes Ear Forehead Hair Cheeks Kiiiitni.KkM. Nevvfteachtfliitfli If-ch Naz-ch Pa-atfli Sooguiiig K-tfiiidznii Kof-choo Skoeh Squa-aw Ch-tfliitnioo Pahatfh Pahatfliitfli Ulkaams C)uafkoo, Ulkaam T-choofu Qua-agh Kaankang Kaang'a Nanit Titian I'duianit E-ew, E-ewt I'fliilgiia Koobit i'-phaad Al.urani Aghuguch Athan Anaan Llaan Afhkin Choyotha Angeen Oogeen Ai-yagar Oogeghilikin Anekthok Oolkulik Toioch fit Kamgha Soghimagin Anghoiln Guakik TJiack Kanitic Kochlaki Tottulak Tanneek Emley Ook'g,i K;ic!l,ik. Ataga _ Anaga Avagatoga Panigog.i Ooyitaga Alkag.1 Ooingii Nooliga Aghanok Tanoghak Tfliagaloi Sewk Amalachtel-fcwt Angloon China Kuak Padzflieeguak Ingelak Kubloot CJiamagatc Tfliewdek Tflioo-uga Nevveyet Ooluak Moutli r 1 ,^1; r- [10] APPENDIX. No. II. Engli(h. KamtOiatka. Aleutan. Kadiak.. Mouth Kuz-ha Aghllga Kannak Throat Quiqua Stfhoka Yoamun. Lips K'kovan Kotflioon Keh-look Teetli Kuppet Aghalun Choodit Tongue Nutfhel Aghnak Ooloo Beard K'ko-ookat Inglaak Oongai ^ Engli(h. KamtOiatka. Aleutan. Kadiak.. Mouth Kuz-ha Aghllga Kannak Throat Quiqua Stfhoka Yoamun Lips K'kovan Kotflioon Keh-look Teetli Kuppet Aghalun Choodit Tongue Nutfhel Aghnak Ooloo Beard K'ko-ookat Inglaak Oongai Neck Hitle Oo-iyo Ooyagut Shoulder Tanutar Kanglee Tooik Hand, arm Scttoo Tflia Ai-igit Fingers P-koida Atchon Shovgalt Nails Ko-uda Chageigm Stoot Brcafl: Ingatah Simzfliin Tfliekiaiat Belly K-foch Kilnia Akf-yek Back Altflioo Tfliundra Koak Foot Tili-quatflioo Kita Itiat Heart Nokguek Kaiiogh Kanok Blood Meflbn Aaniyek Kaiook Milk Nokkol Makthamtanga Mook Skin Koo-r^h Katfhka Amek Meat, or flefli T'haltal Oolow Kamok Bone T'hamtfiioo Kaghna Nenoat Heaving Toltakoning Nitaa Seeing Kwatfhquikotfli Okokthakoa Tangha Tafte Sa-oofen Katha Smell Skefich Igutflia Tfinago Feeling Sitchatfliada Talking Kahalkan Toonootha Neogtok Name Hagaach Aflla Atcha Noife Ki-ichkich Imatflia Tulchoo Crying Kooga-atfch Kaighalik Keagook Laughing Kaflbogaatfh Aloktalik Ingliachtoak Singing K-tfheemgutfh Anogatha Attoa Groaning Attafich Knaook Lie down Kanhilkitfch Thirkaigada Inaghna Stand Kafichtfliitni Ankakthalik Nanaghna Go Kowifitlh Itftia Achook Come Koquafitfli Agatha Tai.;cchook Running Kafchiatfli Ait^aiakatha Kcmaktoak Dancing K-hogdafit(h Achatha Ch^^lagtoak Love Kmgochthaka Kiinogata Joy Kalafik Iglai Grief APPENDIX. No. II. Englirti, Grief Pain Labour Lazv I TJiou Eat Drink Take Strike Throw Strength Marriage Widow Life High Low Body Death Big Little Cold Heat Hot Good Bad Wife Stupid Light, not heavy Hard Tiiick Thin Broad Quick White Black Red Green Blue Sun Moon Kamtdiaika, Quadafis Khafus Komma Kiz Kommogata Takfu Tf-chluk Takafua Ktriiiza Soofoo Kaitafitfli ["] Ivoo- If-U ung "S Kikak Adkang KIttanua Ilomono Kutenoo Attagho Tfhaang Nochfoune Qua-atfli Alaitan. Alchologothik Nanaiik Aguafutha Sochtalik Keen Ingaan Kaangen Taangatha Sulagna Toogalik Ignekua Matalookan Afikfagathan Ofchalik Anghogikoa Kaiakok Kaielakon Ooluk Afchalik Taangoellik Aangonolokn Kinganalik Tfhinglefelik Akivaclifelik TfliizfheJik Matchizflielikan Siniktulik Anghagelikin Igthaghatok Tungachfich Anatulik Anatalokon Kaghcoolik Angaiak Komakuk KaktfliikluII Aluthak Tlhidthgaiak 1 Kaktfliugthuk J Akathak Toogitlr.ik [B 2] Kndiak. Anchagooh Kfatachtook Chooi ChJput Pittooaga Taanagok Teooka Tfliuzfhutekew Ch-Kakoo Oonachkikto k Kunachtook Chkidok Kaluga Tokook Angoch Meyoch Potfnatok Nogtoak Azigtoak Kabigwafkak Oofewitok Naloo-oomok Ogichtoak T-choak Leegoafc Amedoak Kangatoak Tfliukaladn Katehtoak Toonongoak Cowigtoak Tfhunagtoak IMadzfliak Eghaloak Star [12] APPENDIX. No. II. , I tnglim. Ki ntll'..iik.i. Altul.in. Krii.ik. Rtnr Stliak Aghia Heaven, fky Kochan Inknk Killak ISlid, cloiuls INliliahan Inkamaguk iVmaigalok AVind Mathuk Kaiyaik Rain Till akutfl 100 'J"lliioiakik Kidak 'riuindcr Shulu'.iluk .Snow Kancck Anncg Ice K'tliak Tlliigoo Fire Pangitfli Kignak Knol>. Liiilit Angliaik Tangeechflok Dark Dochfac Tamleftok IMorning Kilak Oonamin Evening Angallkingan Akaatoch Night Kolkwa Aingik Day Anghalik Eall Kavatliak Oonulak Well Tliiedulik Tchiaiiik North Kighaithok O.iiliak South Namatha Ooagtok Spring Kanikinga Ognakak Summer Scahkothok Kccgtok Winter Kaiiagli Ookfogtok Autumn Seahkothoking Ookfaghtok Year T-chafioo * Kanaghinalik Eartii Symt Tllickak Noona Water Ee-ee, c i-i Taangak Taangak Sea Ningl Alaghok Imak Waves Kiaha 'llmk • inand Samatfli 'i'aangik Kightak Sand Tllioogiik Kaguyoe Clay Tfliiktluik Kogoo Ivlountain Aal Ghaiok Ingat Sliore Hite-flioo AtOrula 'J'iliaak Hole • Tlhanok Piaganok Ditcli Tlhagak Lagut^ Copper Kanuy.ik Kaunooyat Iron Quatdioo Komlcgu Ttliauik Salt Pcpum Attagook Tagaiook Animal Oongooalihat Fifli Etflioo Ekachlevvt * winter's approach. Wornt APPENDIX. No. n. • I'.i.g'iiii, Worm • Fly Plants Tree Dog J\.x (•oole Duck Ncfl Hut Door Hatchet Knife K.jttle Raw I'o boll War Tliicf (^)uarrcl Spear Friend Faieniv ^V'arrior IMalter Servant i C3 No Now ikfove After Nigh I'ar oil Here Tliere YeRcrday Thij (lav To-n'.ovrow Wlicre 1 low [-3] Kamuliakn. CLubbut C)iiamo(lfli Sc/.da Kafa Koisi TUMfJhal Jvfo.iis Ahhiiigufli N--ach I-i-itlh Jvifut Nutflioo Kvaftjua W.itliioo Kukua Soiiann; Kotjualocii Situngfli Q^aquanutfli Kalljil Annanum Tflir-Miatfh Fa Ilk! Daaiigoo Koomat Namfako Do-ok Nifeh Noot On^M Aati Daangoo J5okiia:i Natllia Noch kills /*.eut,in. Kn'lik. Fokaiak Kobellewt Oolinik Kwi'.'lewt Ohovit Kobi) ' ik Tanguak 'i'a,i;(H,k,;t XTiiv'uk rcvv.,t;t Okotlliing KaH'iik LHk N.ichklaiit Tfliakutdiadok 'itkoligak iSliamlok INLiniiik 'Fllmiigangen Oongohit Ooladuk Tilieklewit Aiiiik Anigafltip A;'.i^';iii Oiiiga/IJiizflilk Tlhangielk Afliok Afok Kaiigakok Ai-ce-p.itnok ()on;;tha Kannegtok Sjigik 'Flhkalkaii 'regUinaLhtocli Aniagliilik Aicevoak Ka(lina^;uni,,k I'annah Ki'.ioglitaki 'i'iliuaga Jiinoghtatkakan 'J'tluiugunitaga Kallochalik Tlhckcluiyak Tokok Auayakak Talha Aaiig Aang Malelikaii Pedok Angaiak Chvenigpak Angaiaktafatha Itfi-o-ak Amoomotaflikan Fttakoo Wagagnagliikok Aniat'aalik • Walligiiakuk Amatkulikuk Kellagon Kongli Vonangalik (iaunegpck Ilkellagou Oonagoo Channa Nai-ee-ma Alk6lli When Cm] Inglilh. When What Raven Eagle Bow Arro\v Darts One Two Three Four Five Six Seven Eight Nine Ten Eleven Twenty Thirty APPENDIX. No. II. Kamtftiatkj. Alcutan. Kadiak. Itta lyem Ivakoo Nokai Alkofigtatima Knlkagiak Kalnak Tinglnk Koomogik Saidcgich Kitfiak Agidak Chook Agalgch Pannah Kemmis Attakon Alchcluk Nittanoo Alluk Malogh Tfliufquat Kankoon Pingaien Tfliafcha Shitfliin Stamen Koomdas Tfliang Taliman Kilkoas Attoon Agovinligin Ittaclitenu Olung Malcliongun Tflioktcnu Kamtfliing Inglulgin Tlhaktanak Sitching Kollemgaien Komtook Uafuk Kollen Difukfm Attakathamatkicli Alchtoch Kafkumtuker Algitliematick Suenak Tflmkumtuker Kankuthematik Pingaienkollen. The Vocabulary of the Ttwgzofe or Lamut Language I at awed from Mr. Koch the Commafidatit of Ochotjh, ivho fucceeded LuuieminuColonel Koyloff Ugrchiin ; the r'ejl •were all taken by myfelf on the fpot with great care and attention ; and having had f re- quent opportunities to prove them with different natives, I can pronounce them correH There arc many words in the Language of Kamtfliatka that I was not able to pro- nounce, and could not of courfe attempt to convey any idea of their found, which is the caufe of fo many blanks. Kq. III. No. III. LIST OP THE DIFFERENT STAGES FROM ST. PETERSBURGH, Specifying ,he number of v.,fts according ,o which I naid f„, I, r . -me of arriving and departing from each fttfh, ' "" noon, and reckoning .wen.y-Lr ho " .o^r'da;""'"' ='=" "r « From St. Peterfburg To Tzarfco Zelo Izftiora Tofni Lubaai Tfliudova Spaftoi Polifti Berezovoi Novogorod Bronitfa Zaitfova Kreftf, Ezfticlbitfi Zimnagorka Verfls. From Zimnagorka 22 To Yadrova »3 Zotiloffki 23 Vifhne Volotfkoi 26 Vydrapulk 32 Torzfhok 24 Mednoi 24 Tweer 22 Gorodki 35 Davidova 27 , Pefki 31 1 fliornoi 38 Mofco 23 Verftj. SO 36 36 33 38 33 30 28 26 31 23 28 Places, ■n m [.6] APPENDIX. No. Ilf. 'rime cf Places. Vcrfh. Vmc, 1785. Aiiiv .)!, Dip.iiturc. From Mufco Dec. 15. 4- Novaj.i 24 7- 8. Uuiikova 34 10. 50 I 2. Kcrihatdii 34 H). •7- IV'tulliki 26 20. 21. Uiulal 27 16. 24- I. Valad'micr 28 6. 30 7- 3^ Tlluulogda 39 '3- 50 '4- 3*^ I^K.Ilu^k 3-3 19. '5 20. Davllievo 27 23- 23- 3'' !Miivonia 3 'J I/- 2. 3- 3<' Monakuva -5 7- 3^ 8. 30 Popoll 29 '5- 18. Pavlova - i8. 21. 7. I/aflikova 33 19. 21.. 30 Nci/fhiK'i Novogovoil 34 19. 4- 9- 30 Ijotvoiliioi 29 i.v 19. 30 Tatniti. 27 1 T 45 23. 40 Oftalluck 32 20. 2. 4- Ofinka 32 8. 9. 10 Ycmangadi 32 1 1 . 30 13. 40 Scartog 22 16. '^- 35 Atclikarcno 30 21. 10 23- Tdicbaklar 26 21. 3- 9- Kolhki 30 16. 16. 40 Canafli 31 21. 25 24. 10 Vcfovigli 24 22. 4- 4- 30 Kazan 30 8. 30 APPENDIX. No. m. C17] 30 J'' 33 3^ 40 10 35 40 10 30 Pfac From K;izan '-I'o lieruli, village Arik, city Karadvan, viJlage .(angulov tJunbar Tercn'efo Vaxfliintech-Kakfe oumfae IJbarie Kulmetfat '/y.\itri Jgra 15olflioi-Purpa •l^cbefla, village Sofiiova . Dubrof/ky ■ Ochanoi, city Poldenoi, village Kultaiva Koianova Krilufova Kungur, city •Stretenlkoi, village Zplotuouftoflky Bukovi Atchinfky Krepoft Bifirfki do. Klenofiky do. Time of A'Wval. j Departure. t I 16 60 20 loo 1 1 30 100 . - , _ t I 22 70 10. 6. 30 15 10. 45 18. 45 20. 22. 40 24. .s- 7- 5^ 16. 45 '7- 20. 30 21. 10 2.-!- «5 24. 2. 2. '5 5- 30 6. 30 lo. 25 II. '/•• '7- 20 21, 22. I. 2. ] 1 1 Li8] Arrr, N'nix. No. iir. Hourrs inrt Time of I'l.lCCS. Verrts. Cliuttlifj f . n«tf, 1786. All! V.1I. l>c|>.ittiirf. January, 'Vo KirgiilianlT.-y Krt-poill 28 60 'T- 12. 45 14. Diogroboflky do. 23 100 t I »7- 40 21. IJcliniboicftky Savoil 23 300 t ' IS. 23- 1. Refliotti, vlll.igc 26 10 6. 6. .5 Ekateiinebiujr, city 21 ly. 11. 8. Kofulinn, village 24 24 12. 12. 4; llelojarlk 24 3a >7- 30 18. t « JicHlki, village 25 30 21. 30 22. 30 Chornoi Korova 24 30 20. 2. >s 3- "5 Ivamiihlov, city 27 200 7- 30 8. 30 t > Bufliniinfka, town 32 50 '3- 5° M- 30 t ' Kujarfflcy, village 14 15 17- 17. 30 Belol Jalamfky >4 40 19. 30 20. 15 Bela Kaffka, tovi^n 2» 5° 21. I. 15 2. t I Tu, :ulunfka 32 22 60 6. 12. 30 45 7- 30 Ufpianlk t ' 80 '5- t » Tumcn, city 30 22. 20. I. Kalkara, village 24 20 3- 4. 20 Sofonov 22 45 9- 9. 25 t I Kofmakof » 21 30 14. 15 14. 30 Prokof/ky 10 •50 «5- 45 16. t « Ufolka 12 80 18. 1 8. 15 Jarkova 15 40 19. 3° 19. 45 Artamenof 9 20 20. 3® 21. Jevleff 10 i3 22. •/ 22. 30 A 1' 1' 1. N D I X. No. III. f'y] 6. 15 22. 30 3- '5 8. 30 7- 30 IS- I. 4« 20 9- 25 14. 3° 16. 18. 15 19. 45 21. 22. 30 I'laccs, To Aiitcpciin, village lApadky , Haiknlof}' TurLnyoflky, tartar huts Ufchkonka, village Tabollk, city Bakfhevn, village Stara Pogod Kapotilova J")rervanka Ktiliki Jurti Kuforadlka, village Colopopova Vikolov, town Otfliimova, village Ziuliloffty, for poll Kibiua, village Chaooiiiiia licfika, town Hutakova, village 'Tira, city Uitara, village RelhetnikoiT, village Artiii Reliiia MaraOii Nazarcva Ghoclilova Vozntlcnika, town Vera, 18 '7 18 23 25 25 29 20 30 3' 3'3 4' 5^ 3« 46 5« 36 40 30 38 29 32 36 14 5^ 24 12 ^9 20 Hoiifcs tnt\ l-'liiiiclici f. 30 30 t I 70 40 7 10 30 8 6 '4 30 30 75 t I 30 30 20 20 70 t 1 40 _5o_ t I 30 30 80 20 80 t 1 70 100 TV Ditc, ijfC. January. 2,i. 24. 25- 26. 28. 29. 2"^- 'I line i.f Arriv.il. I IJfj.niiiite, I. i. 30 4- 20 «. '3- 2 'J. 24. 3- K. 16, 21. 5- 30 n- 22. 30 5. 20 '7- 25 22. 4- I 2. iS. 21. I. 15 2- 45 5- lo. 16. 19. I. 4- 40 9- 16. 4^ 2'. 45 6. 18. 23- 30 6. 20 18. 12. 30 10. T I. 15 12 14. :v^ l-; 21. 30 23' 2. 30 3' 4- 4- 6. 30 10. 3°! I I. •:::m fc 2] Lio] Arm N 1 \. N3. in. IV I ■ « » Hiiiiiv. »!>'' 'I'linc lit rUcri. V«ift. V'IiukIii^ -( Djtc, i;S6 Atrinl lli| Daif t I.imi.iiy. 'I'o T.Ml.wIki, villaj;o j>i .K 1,}. V' I"; 1 'rmnm«)v.i ;!i « ) IH. .«'-' i<> rokioI'lV,), (n« It 1 ** 70 21. 21 4; AtUofkiii, vill.igc i.\ t « CO i-U •!| < V Hul.ilov.i irt Vi 3'- 4- 4 3" K.iiiilk, lity M '^? 7- / 20 OHitiov.i Kulki, vill.ige J') f « 70 i.?- 4'; ^\ '? Ki>lin,ikov • 3''» SO Rl>. I. .<• 4 >s 1'Miilky .5 ' 50 H. <; K.iif:;.>M i« 50 1 2. 1 2 •S- K.uliotiki, I'ov |M)ll :f) 70 >S- 45 I ft Kivp.itiki Dulimvi 2i ,W 2.|. •! 1 3>J Itkul.i, town 1 JO 2. 2 Si'ktitilljv, vill.i^c 47 f<6 .<;• 5 20 DrtiliitiilolV «7 50 7- 45 « .Slioli^iiio i6 70 1 1. 1 1 15 'r.iiwihiiilk.t 20 30 '4- '4 ii; Ttli.iiillilk.i, town ^; Ho 1 « ' /'• 15 «7 40 Pubroviti,!, village 40 8 2t. .3<^ li Aj.idiiiilk :^5 40 2* ^ 47 K.ir.ifiii.i, village 25 10 5. .^'^ -, JO Choriici K.'.(l.init:5 .^^ 20 to. ^^ 1 1 \? \',nuc'hiii,i .<4 00 Iv 20 K- V3 K.lltai 23 -i 1 -. '7- 3'5 Tom Ik, city i4 19. 45 I- i.l- Semcmiflini, town 28 5- 2. 3° 3- 35 CIi.iKKiiki, \ ill. ICC »4 40 4- '5 ^ 25 runuu.iiva 22 40 8. 30 1 v>. Clcon 40 30 •7- 30 U). Votl]ut,'.iiti 22 20 2 2. 1 22. 20 Berikul 21 ^4 6. 2. 1 2. 30 Kiikova, town 5i 1 1 1 60 1 2. 30 '3- A r p r NT n I X. Ko. ut. r^j I'l.ii. io •5 '5- .W •17 5 3^ I'oSiiflov.i, vill.i^c 'IV/diiii It.U KriifiK.ivLi, vill,i,.r Arcliiii, lily C'lioriioi-rr.Iik.i, vill.im- noKIioi KrmKl.iilv Miloi Kcimlliiik /.ivcdcv.j Knifiiojiirlk, city lJi)l()i, vill.i^Fc Kiilkiin, vill.iirc r.il.ii ' . Hil>iiia Kliitth Kuinfkoi Odrm' 11.111, villiigc I'oim Till! Klutd.i Uc-rufii, town Hayrono/T, village Ko/gciiia, Init Al/am;ti, village J^amfoi Ook Uiiiiifk, cily •>i"gui, village yiiabalaii '11, ■l)riiary. H. 10. iH ■I f>. 1 1. re, ?• H. I :. '7- 21. I. M- '7- 21. V' I' 'it "''I'lKlln, •V- I.J. ■I- 2) I,' .\<^ 45 / • 12. '7- i.j. '7. 22. r. •»i .1" 20 24. 5- «. '4. 22. 2. 6. 10. •5- 20, 4J r |. 18. 21. y J2. ! i2. 20 2. 6. 22. 7. (t. i I. '.3 980 981 I004 1041 1070 iiio 1 157 1178 1205 1232 1259 1293 Ma Y 20. 21. 22. 23- Houfes. 2 3 4 »5 70 '5 80 4 9 8 19 20 12 4 2 3 20 20 25 10 12 20 20 30 20 10 7 10 II 7 7 3 2 I 4 3 7 30 30 3 4 4 Cl'uiclies .111(1 Moiijlkiics f , t « Ct>] [sd] APPENDIX. No. III. Places. Vc I)jf.', 17S6. Hoi'fts. (luircl.es and Moii.irti.iies f. May 23. Ghamra 1309 3 t Konki ■336 2 Tfiiioofka I3H0 24. 3 Muria 1405 3 Silguil I44S 5 Newye 1475 5 Yerba 1505 3 Oofhakan 1540 2 Yedai 1565 4 Mackai . > - '595 25- 2 Berofova 1645 4 Dolgoi 1678 3 Nelena 1711 3 Cheringa "TS'^ 4 Birt 1775 6 Anyiiiflc 1798 9 Alofinfk 1799 13 Olekma 1807 26. 50 2 Solenka 1832 4 Namania 1872 3 Katabalyk 1912 3 Chatin TCumul 1954 27. 2 Murta 1976 I Sanayagtak 2018 2 1 Malikan - - " 205 s 2 B Ifaki 2090 2 1 Nevarchie iI25 2 • Umarie 2150 2 Sinae 2180 2 Batamai 22IO 3 Kitarie 2232 2 Toiona . - - 2274 2 Biftach 2301 14 t 1 Takwtflt 2390 No. p;. ACCOUNT OF The full Pay of the dfent Ranks, «!,(, other Depandencie, • and , =« E.p.ana„o„ of .,. uf., Deduaion, accord^ .oTRe!:!-: t I Ro. Co, Ro. Co. . ^ Captain of I ft rank . ^». 1 Allowed 6 Dcnfticks; their pay each _ ^ ^ 6 Which pay is underftood for all Denfhicks of others Captain of ad rank 4 Denfhicks 420 1 1 Captain-Lieutenants, Majors' rank i 3 Denfhicks 300 Lieutenants, Captains' rank - 200 2 Denfhicks Midfhipmen 120 I Dcnfhick ' 1 Upper Auditors 1 240 1 2 Denfliicks Auditors 100 I DeniTiick Clerk, or Secretary , . ^^ Skippers Oftheiftrank . i,. 1 I Denfliick " Of the 2d rank I ■? 2 ( I Denfliick 1 CommifTary 100 i I Denfhick ' 1 ■- Priefls 120 f 1 \ [02] 128] APPENDIX. No. IV. i! Surgeons r,;ich allcwcil i Dl'uUui.^ SI lip.,' Clcrlv;^ Stuvincn I'oi! Suirmcii VoA Lck.irs Foil iSkij^ivr.-; Timmcrm.ui (Ship lUiilJcrs) BiMtrw.iins Boatl'wi'.ins' Mates Stiirmciis' Learners Surgeons' Learners Quarter-Matlcrs oailors -{ , 1 2d - Cii'jin Boy Defatnick of Plotnicks Plotnikcu Caulkers Sail-Makers' Mates Smiths Coopers and under Coopers lioteleirs Itmler lioteleivs Trumpeter, ifl and 2d Clafs Kettle J')iamnu'rs Cooks ift and ad Clafs Profort In th_- Sea Hofpital Dodors 3 Deniliicks Stab Lckars 2 Deiifliicks The Upper Priell ^'' the T above Chunli Charadlcrs IShirlr.es M.iji'r Prx'.nicr cct i Lo. 1 Uo. i I'o. 1 * Aceording to thci; meviis and abilities, 300 their pay to be ..uj:;- 2,10 mented or dnnnnlheil. 180 f Aeeortliiii; to their J>o ntlention, abihties, ami 36 i ilelVrt, to ;uld or df- .33 * 40 iluCt i but never lefs 60 than ro. 60, nor more 84 than iluiv full pay. 60 .|. Aeeording io me- 90 rit, their pay to be in- 60 creaied or Kilcned ; but 36 never to be lei's than ro. 3' 5° 24, nor to exeeed their 18 full pay in addition. 24 II 7 6 14 64 9 5 S 4 36 36 16 / Their uniforms to be C given in nutura. 24 15 From 12 ro. to 18 >5 ro. according to their 'S ► merit; but not to ex- 15 ceed this Itlpulatcd 'S J fum. 24 1 1 14 5 36 Their uniforms to be 40 given /'// nntitnu 60 § Aeeording to their 9 14 S 36 knowledge of mufic and 6 14 5 36 good behaviour their fa- lary may be augmented 800 1 or diniiniflied. II Their uniforms In 600 natitra. 240 300 N. B. DaiflTiLk ir. a Servant allowed outof tlie Ship's Company, not only whilfi. at fea, but a! To at cjuarters. This man ma^ be let out to work, and the Offi- cer receive tlic money tliat he gets by labour, as alfo his allowance of provifion. ■f No. V. INSTRUCTIONS or HER IMPERUL MAJESTT, FHOM TEIE ADMlRALTi- COLLEGE, To M,-. J„s„„ „„,,,„., C.p,„i„.Lic,„a,.„u „f ,„o F,c«. c„™,„,n,„ ,he moft cncn, conib .„J fca, of tUr eIi ' L:r li "i ''''"""' '» "'" lo.gi.u.ic and l:m.u,lc of ,he n,o„. of Z v'.r K„ ta" ."T™''"'"'"" "' "" «.o,,, f.. ."insin,Mop„f.^^::Vh" .; :; r: ;;;,ir::rr°^""'"''"' '- n^e, ,„.l ,l,c „„e,„ft of 1I„ En-pirc, wil] „dtc ,o„ ,'„ ful , 1^1^/™'^''' tions tiitcrtainca of your abilities. ^ cxp^aa- Ilcr C3<=] APPENDIX. No. V. Her Imperial Majcdy, agreeably to her vvontcil gracious and generous diljiofi- tion in all her ufeful iiiiil maternal commanils, is plealVil, over and above lueh weighty ineitemenl^, lor yonr grentcr cncour.i:;iment to atlivity and zeal in tlio ferviee, to give you the rank of Captain-Lieutenant of tlie fleet ; for whieh rank you have taken the oath, and received your patent ; and, to favour you dill more, the officers and petty offieers which you have demanded are named according to your own choice, as you will obferve by the lift annexed hereto. At the fanie time Her Imperial Majefty hai graeioully ordereii, that from the day of figning this Indruclion, until your return to St. Pcterlburg, you and all under your command are to be allowed double pay, according to thcif ranks ; to you according to the rank here granted, and to your fubaltenis according to the rank that they fliall obtain at Irkutik ; whieh pay is to be given here, one year in advance ; above which, to you and all your fubaltenis, a bounty of one year's pay for procuring iieeellaries for travelling. Our Moft Gracious iSoverclgn has alfo generoufly ordered, that at your arrival at Irkutik, before you begin the execution of what is prefcribed in the following ar- ticles, you fhall declare in Iler Majelty's name, to all officers and petty oiricers under your command, an advanced rank above what they bear, and have them fworn accordingly ; except thofe only who are to receive gratifications in money, according to the annexed lift. Her Imperial Majefty graeioully orders ycu to declare yourfelf, in Her Imperial name, Captain of the Fleet of the fecond rank, after having fulfilled the bufinefs prefcribed in tlie following articles on the river Kovima ; in wliicli rank you are then to take the oath. When vou have finifli'.'d your prefcribed bufinefs on the river Kovima, and along the coaft of the Tflmtiki, at your return to Ochotflv, where every thing will be ready for your voyage to the coaft of America, at t;ie inftant of going on board you are to declare, in Her Imperial Majefty's name, an advanced rank to all under your command ; to caufe the oath to be adminiftered to yourfelf, and to the reft according to the abovf-mentioned lift. liaftly, at your arrival at Cape St. Ellas you may declare yourfelf Captain of the firft rank. Thofe of your fubalterns who, according to their rank, fueceed to the places of fuch as rnay die, either a natural death or by accident, and who will be onlered to fuch rank either by vou or by the officer that may have the command after you, provided they produce a certibcate of their good behaviour and zeal in the ferviee from the Commander in Chief, will on their return to Peterfburg be confirmed at tlie Admiralty College, in the name of Her Imperial Majefty, in the rank con- ferred on them ; and will be accounted in that rank from the ('-y of their appoint- 3 rneiit. APPENDIX. No. V. [30 d'li'tjori' jvo luch il in tlK" Icli rank ill more, )uliiig to 'rem the u ami all anks ', to iig to the le year In ,rcar's pay arrival at owing ar- ty oILccrs Kavc them in money, r Imperial bufinefs Ilk you are and along hg will be on board all under the red St. Elias 1 places of Irdered to kfter you> lie fervice I firmed at l-ank con- appoint- ment. mcnt. This is to be underftood of thofe who bear petty officers' ranks ; thofe who get into the denomination of upper oflicers, according to the above-mentioned order of advancement, will have equal advance with officers that go from hence> In cafe any one of thofe that go from hence fliould die, be maimed, or lofe the ufe of his limbs, during the Expedition on the Tlliutflci coaft, or the navigation from Ochotflc to the American coaft ; if fuch perfon fliould have a wife and chil- dren, the widows of the deceafed fhall receive until they marry again, or until their death, and tlie children till they come to their lawful term of years, half pay of what the deceafed received during the Expedition ; the maimed fliall alfo receive fuch half pay during their lives. After having completed the bufinefs cntrufled to you, on your happy return to St. Peterfhurp;, you, and all unuer your Command, \vill receive the defeat of the double pay for the different ranks obtained during the Expedition } and, as a gra- tuity, a year's double pay according to the rank they return in ; over and above which you and all your fubalterns, reciirning fafe, will receive for life the fingle pay received during the Expedition, without accounting for what he may get for future fervices. Such gracious grants and further promifes of protection, but mofl of all the im- portance of the trull laid upon you, muft excite in you a noble e-nulation to render yourfelf worthy of it, by endeavouring to do all in your power to fulfil the articles of this inflrudtion, confirmed by Her Imperial Majefly, and fetting, by your un- remitted endeavours, an example of zeal to all your fubalterns. A R T I C L E I. For your information are hereunto annexed fourteen charts of former navigator* on the Northern and Eafl:ern Ocean, and along the coaRs ; as alfo of travels by land ; to which are annexed fliort extrafts of the journals of the travellers, from 1724 to 1799. fhe plan of t'lie veflel prefented by you for infpeftion is herewith returned ; and you may, upon that plan, conftruft veflels at Ochotlk, if there be not one found there fit for your navigation. Annexed is likewife a lift of Ruffian towns, with the determination of the latitude and longitude of fome ; as alfo a model, according to which vocabularies of the different nations are to be collefted. You receive alfo medals exprefsly made for you, to be employed witlx luch nations, the proper appropriation of which will be hereafter defcribed. You will receive herewith five thoufand rubles, to be employed in buying beads, knives, and other inftruments, fmall copper-kettles, and other fuch trifles, to be em- ployed as prcfent;s to the favages who are fond of them. Yoa. lilj APPENDIX. No. V. liir fr-^f You w ill alio receive hcvc mathematical and aflrotiomical iuRrunient."!, befule* other,! ; and double pay, for you and all your Command, fo one yoar advance ; and likcwlfc the abovc-niontioncd bounty granted by Her Imperial M.ijclty for you and .dl your Command, wbicii you are to deliver aj^ainll their receipts in tiie olheial leeeipt-book, of wliich I' enty are given to you from the Admiralty for this pur- pofe i as alfo for entering for the future all receipts and exp^nces. After you have provided yourfelf witii all neciflaiies for the journey, you are to proe(rcd with ,dl your Command, the Ihortcit and mod advantageous road to Irkuilk. You are to take care not to break your oath of keeping fecret the bufinefii LdtvufleJ to you ; and not to exceed, on affairs of fecrecy, the ukaze of 17;.-;, of whicli a copy is ainiLXcil for your informatian. You are not to open youifelf on any account to any body about the meafure;! or pn .eedings of your Expedition, unkfs ordered fo to do; and much lefs fo, to any body, tliis or any othi.r inihudion tliat may be given to you for the lame purpofe *, you are alfo to give the mod Uriel orders to all your Coninund to this effecl. During your travels, if any very important accident fliould happen to you, you are to give notice to the Admiralty College by exprefs ; but in affairs of lefs import- ance, for example of the flate and place in vvliich you are, fend your reports by port. From the day of your fctting out from Petcrfburg till the very couclufion of your Expedition, you are to keep a journal very accurately yourfelf, and order your officers to do the fame. ARTICLE II. When you arrive with your Command at Irkutilc, you are to deliver to the Go- vernor-General of Irkutik and Ivolivan, Jacobi, or in his abfcnte tlie Vice Governor, the original ukazc of Her Majcfty diretled to him j to which is added a copy of this your InftruiSlion ; and in which order is given, that all poffible affiitance be rendered at your requell for the fervice of Her Majcfty. Tlic Governor is to give you fuffieient dire(Stions for your journey to Yakutlk, Ochotik, Izlhiginfk, and to the river Kcvima. He is to provide you with an open ukaze, by which it is enjoined to all the commanders and chanceries of the places tlirough or by which you, or any fent by you (to whom you are always to give at their fetting off" your inllruc- tions for their journey), may travel, that they, upon your requeft, give you all poffible affiflancc, as well of hands as ftores and provilions ; befules, the fame Governor- Cieneral is empowered by Her Majelly's ukaze to give you another open ukaze, for the receipt of ten thoufand rubles for unexpetSled and extraordinary expenccs, which may happen during your travels ; as alfo for travelling expences, and for the payment of fuch men as you may, according to the prefeription of this inftruftion, employ in any part of Irkutik. Of this funi you may receive as much as is necef- fary, APPENDIX. No. V. [331 laiicc be to give and to ;njoined you, or inilruc- poffible )venior- ukaze, Lpenccs, for the Iruftion, Is necef- fary, lary, atij when nnJ where you think fit -, but for the money received, you, and the eldcft officer next you, arc to p.ds youv r^-cciptfi, that you niay l.now how much money is received and can be received on the uk»2e. You are to require in each place where you take money, tliat he from whom you receive it fhould endorfe upon the ukaze, how much, wliere, and when, the p.iyment has been made ;• anj the cxprnces, with an account for wliat the expenditure^j have K-en r-nade, aro to he notal in the official book j-iivcn by the Admiralty., with receipts wherever tlu-y can he procured. Stores and provifions you are to receive, with conlcnt of your fubalterns, mentioning, in the receipt whieli you give, the quality and quantity of goods received. You are not on any account to make any fupcrfluous or puzzling demands, only what is prcfcribcd, or fuch as contribute in reality to the fervice of Her Majcily •, nor expend any fum upon what ii not necellary, as you will be refponfible for it. At IrkutiV you are to endeavour, with the help of the Governor-Gen. ral, to pro- vide yourfelf, without the lealt lofs of time, with all ncceflarics, and to get them tranfported to their refpe£live places. You may, for forwarding bufinefs, detacli from your Command upper and under oflieers for infpeding, preparing, and tranf- porting the llores colleCled to their places of delUnation. If you fee, by the lift in the poflllTion of the Governor-General, that in the ma- gazines at Ochotflc there is not a fufficient quantity of provifions and other ftores neecflary for duly arming and viftualling the fliips which are proper to be employed for your navigation, as alfo for your march to the river Kovima, and along the coaft of the Tihutiki ; in fuch cafe you ire to requcft the Governor-General to endeavour by all means to furnilh the magazines in due time with what is re- quifite, and that the faid Governor- General may fend an cxprefs to the Com- mander of Ochotlk, with orders as well to fupply fuch wants, if there fhould be any, as alfo to ilop the vcficl that annually fails with provifions for Izfliiginflci Krepoft in June or July, that you may be able to take the opportunity of faid vef- fel for going to IzOilginlk ; and laiUy, that the faid Commander fliould fend orders to Pctro Pavlofiky, or what^^ ver other harbour of Kamtfliatka is thought more proper, for preparing there, againR your intended voyage towards the coaft of America, fullicient quantities of dried fifli and wild roots, and other eatable wild vegetables, for the fupply of your people ; enjoining, that at fuch harbour (liould be ftationed in due time about twenty Kamtfliadais, uled to a feafaring life, and well (killed in fifliing and hunting, who are to accompany you in your voyage for the ulual pay. At Irkutft;, you may examine and take your clioice of five or fix of the beft ftholars of the Navi,;:;atioii School, and take them under your command to emplny tlicm durin' vcur travels in lurveying and drawing charts: thefe are to remain [li] with ' 1 1 r34] APPKNDIX. No. v. u witli you till the conclufion of tlic Expedition, upon tlic f.ime looting as the otiicr pi try olHc rs thnt go \vitl» you from Ptterlburg. Thofo IJchcnicka that were for- merly lent with C.iptaiii Krcnitzcn rcccivcil fifty-four rubles annually j you may ^\\'C. tlicm fuch p lymcnt for one year for tliiir etiuipnunt. You arc alfo to take witli you from Frkiulk the naturalill Mr. Patrln, wlio \vill remain with you till your nrurn with your Connnaml to .St. Peterlhur^, in order to ilufcribe fiu'h natural iuviolitie;> as ni.iv be met with iluring tlie courfc of the I'^xpoililioii : he will veceivc partieular indruclions for hij bulinefs, and what he ii to do ill fueh places where he will go with you, or where you (hall think fit to fend him, for deferiliing objeOs wo.th obferviirg j you arc to aflilt him, upon his requeft, with hand.j, inlhuments, and u: aey for exeeuting his orders-, giving him leave to Hop for cbfjrvations in fueh placeo fo long as ( ireunillanccs will permit, takin|^ liim along witli you wherever you go to diflant plaees. You may, if you (hall think it neceflary, receive from tlie Governor-CJcncral nt Irkutik, according to the imperial ukaze, another y-ar's double pay lor all your Command in advance. Having received from the Governor-General all that is required for the Expe- dition, and all that may ferve for your future and more circumftantial information ; having alfo executed all tliat is to be done at Irkutfk, and reflefted on cireumltances that may happen during your further journey, you will then, witliout lofs of time, eitlier by land or along the river Lena, as you fljall think bcfl;, with fueh of your Command as remains with you after making tlie necclTary detachments, proceed to Yakutlk, or where you fliall think it molt c nvenient for tlie fervicc, or the intent of the Expedition. As you arc (Irlctly to follow the directions of the Governor- General, fo you have alfo to make your reports to him of your proceedings, of un- foreften untoward circumftances and hindrances in your journey to Oehotfk, and from thence to Izfhigii'.fit and to the Kovima ; in order that you may, in cafe ot' r.ccefiity, receive direiflions from him how to proceed. I.aftly, You arc to reprefcnt to the Governor-General, that }ie is to give the mod abfolutc orders through his wliole governinent, that nobody ihould be curi- ous in opening letters fent by mcflengcrs with private repor;;, as ii liappened durini^ the Expedition under tlie command of Captain Krenitzin the loth of April, in the year 1768, at tlie port of Oehotlk, by the Commau.ler ColonekFcodor Plenifner. Particularly at this time, and in this part of the lluflian Empire, moft of all in parts lying beyond the river Lena, as far as you niall travel either by fi:.\ or land, you are to determine as nearly as pofTible the longitude and haitude of remarkable placer., the variation of the compafs ; to form ftiiveys and charts ; drav/ remarkable views of c'lads, with the fituation of bayy, inletrs, and roads ; and mark their ad- vantages for trade, fiflieries, &c.; likcwife to cbftrve and dclcribc the time, flrength, rifing, APPENDIX. No. V. t35J live the curU il ihiring !, in tlif lliflKT. of all in or land, 11 ark lib k' riarkablc llieir ad- Lrcngth, •ilinrr, lifnig, and Irregulirity of tides and currents j .ilfo of rocks under water, flioali, and other dangerous pl.tci's •, the ruliiij.', vari.ibii', and trade winds j tho clungcs ok" weather; nietiors, particularly Aurora IJorcalisv the llatc of the ilodricity of t!ic air durint^ thcfe meteors, and tiu.ir inilucncc ou the conipafi ; lallly, the changes of the barohietcr and tliLTmomcter. Moreover, Mr. I'atrin will hav*' ftauicular inllruftlons rcfp^'Cling his obfcrvations in natural hiiloiy : however, you arj ni\>.r to ncj;kcl, efpciiaily .'lun lie is not prefent, to obferve the nature of the foil accnr.ilcly, and of the produd'Uons of ihi country where you lind yourRlf; you are diligently to colledl feeds, ripe fruits, anil dried plants, bi'.uiehes and pieces of the wood of remarkable tree", their barks, relins, and gums j alfo fea-weeds, zoophytes, niell:;, filh.'s, aniphibioas creatuics } infedls, birds, and other animals; taking olT and llulhng the Ikins of fome, and drying ami preferving in fpirlts others. You are likcwife to collect fpecimens of ores, foilils, llones, falts, earths, and fulphurs ; noting the place where each ' "re found or caught, and at what time. To prevent fucli colleiflions being fpoiled by accidents, you may leave them in fuch places as you think proper, where you in ly take them up at your return to St. Pcterfburg. If in fneh pLues there Ihould be a commander, you are to deliver tlieni to him, taking a receipt. If the places are not inhabited, put them in re- markable fituations, where they will be fecured from weather and dellrudion •, or, flill better, fend them along with your reports and their dcfcription, under your feal, to the Clovernor-General of Irkutlk. You are likewife to make, if poHible, circumftantial deferlptlons of the quality and ufe, and even drawings of the mod curious produtlions of "ature ; you are to enquire accurately about the number, ftrength, natural difpof'j*- , manners, and occupations of the inhabitants of unknown places; likewife order to be made vo- cabularies of their language, after the model given you ; endeavouring to exprefs as nearly ns pofTible tlie pronunciatio:i of their words in J, •■in antl Rulhan eliarac- ters. Ladly, you are to procure, (or, if that be not pofliblc, to get painted, or tlefcribe) tlie furs, drefles, arms, and mamifadurcs, of fuch nations. ARTICLE III. Upon your arrival at YakutlTc, you are to apply vomTclf ■"mniedlatcly, to execute wJKit the Goveiiior-General may think necellary lo prepare for your furtlier jour- ney to Oehotik ; and during your iiay there, by virtue of your open ukaze, which nriiers all Commanders and Corodnltflii of the towns through which you pafs, to "ive vou all necellary afliftance, you are to require ahftraifls of accounts to be [n 2] found 41 rj'-] APPENDIX. No. V. i'ounu in tlie arcluvca of late navigators, and of all th.it cnn give information about your main bufincfs upon the Kuvimn, and round the coafl of the Tfliutfki ; and if you find by fuch lilh or abfir.itli that there is any thing furpaffing the extracts cummuiiic.itcd to you at St. i'cLcrfburg, and you think them neceilary, you may de- mand topics of them ; and if there be any eharts get them alio copied, Wliercvcr you produce the open ukaze of the Governor-General of Irkutfk, you may permit to fuch pcrfons as it regards to take copies of it, in cafe it Ihould be iieccflary. You may, if you and the Governor-General fliould think it convenient to be done at Yakutfic, and not by preference at Oehotfk, Izfliiginlk, or even tlie Ollrogs upon the river Kovima, pick out the neceilary number of CofTacks, fol- diers, interpreters, and guides, choofing preferably hunters, and fuch as are recom- mended for their fkill and good behaviour, and who have been upon the Kovima; and of foldiers fuch as were formerly in garrifon at Anadirik, liave converfed with the Tfhutfki, frequented their habitations and the environs of the Kovima, and the coaft of the Frozen Ocean (fome even were born among the Tfhutfki) ; with thefe people you may, in prefence of the Commander of the town, either make an agree- ment, or pay them without agreement, double the fum that is ufual there for people who are hired for a term to ferve at fea ; which they are to receive from the time you take them under your command, till you difmifs them at the clofe of the Ex- pedition, or till their deatli, infcribing this pay in a particular official book ; and you may promife in the name of Her Majefly, to fuch as offer themfelves volunteers, that at the happy return from the Expedition they fhall receive a gratuity of one year's pay, as received during the Expedition, for their fervice. Following the example of your predccefibr Captain Krenitzin, who was fent In 1764 to thefe feas, you may, if you think it conducive to the fervice, and for more expedition, which in all your proceedings is hereby much recominended to you, order at Yakutfic (as he did in 1765) rope work to be tarred, and provlfions packed in bags and cafes, each containing no more than two poods and a half weight ; and when you have got the necefiary quantity of provifions in readinefs, fend part of them off, under command of an officer inftrudcd by you, and furnifl\ed with all neceflaries, loading on each horfe no more than five poods, on account of the many bogs, rivers, and mountains, which are to be pafled. Yourfelf may follow in the fame manner with the reft of the provifions, ftores, and men. To prevent hin- drances on the road to Ochotlk, you may defire the Commandant of Yakutflc to fend off an exprefs, preparing neceflaries for your journey. ARTICLE APPENDIX. No. V. [37] ARTICLE IV. When you have furninicd yourfdf with all ncccfl'.irics at Yakutfl:, you muft make your ilirpofitlons to complete tlic tr.infpovt which is already orilercd before, of provifions neceflary to maintain your party during your (lay upon the Kovim.i, and the coafls of the Frozen Ocean. If you fliall think it neeeflliry to have fome Ccflacks to form this party, and if you can find fueh as have been before upon this river, or upon thefe coafts, you may make choice of fuch either at Ochotd^'j or at Inzihiginlki Krepofl. ent m more you, packed and jart of thall of the ow in It hin- tflc to ICLE ARTICLE V. Laflly, In order that you may bed employ your time, endeavour to arrive at Ochotflc at the fan:-; time nearly vi^ith your fubalterns, to choofe there the failors and Coflacks who are to follow your Expedition by land and by fea. You muft clfo choofe, from among the pilots of that port, two or three who liave fuflicient knowledge of thofe feas, and whofe fervice you fhall think moft conducive to the fuccefs of your navigation. On your recommendation, they will enjoy the fame advantages as the reft of your Command. Each of them is to fele£l for his affiftant one of the Utflienicks of the Navigation School of Ochotflc. At Ochotflc you are to make all neeeflliry preparations for the fca vayage prc- fcribed hereafter in the loth Article. In cafe not one of the velTels in a6l:ual fer- vice there fliould be fafe enough for fuch a diftant navigation, you muft then take your meafures for conftrufting two veflels of fufBcient ftrengtli and conve- nience, to anfwer the purpofe and preferve the healths of the crew. Of one of thefe veflels, at the time of navigation on tlie coaft of America, you will have tlie command, and the command of the other will be given to the fecond in rank ; for the fafety of the crew, and the fuccefs of the navigation, depend on the vcfl'els of the Commander in Chief being accompanied by another. In order to enforce their conftrudion, orders will be given immediately to the Governor of Irkutflc, that the bell fb'-i timber to be found about Ochotik lliould be prepared, and all ftores got in readinefs for fitting out one fhip of eighty feet in keel, and another of fmaller dimenfions, by virtue of the open ukaze which the Governor- General of Irkutflc and Kolivan is to give. You arc to demand from the Com- mandant of Ochotflc the neceflTary number of carpenters, and all requifite aflift- ance towards conilruding and fitting up your veflels. You are empowered to give the fuperintendance of the docks to one or more of your fubalterns, and to your fliipbuilder, in order that the building may be cariied on with all poihble fpeed, and [3«] APPENDIX. No. V. and entirely according to your plan. You mufl llkewifc order nt Ocliotflc a cer- tain numluT of polls of durable wood to be prepared, which are to be cretfled on fucli lands as may be newly difcovercd by you ; thefe polls you will (low in your fliip when you fail for Ameriea. ARTICLE VI. When you have made thefe preparations, and collecled from the Archives at Ochotik what information and journals relative to your Expedition may be found there, you may then without lofs of time, with part of your Command, which you have chofen at Ochotik, and with Alleflbr Patrin, proceed on the readieil way to the Kovima. It will be proper to go as lightly equipt as poflible on board the vefl'el which fails in June or July with provillons for the garrifon of Izfliiginlk ; at that place you will find the bell CoHacks and foldiers for forming your party, as fomc of tliem heretofore compnfed the garrifon of Anadirik, and have had con- •.ic\ion<; with the Tfluit.Tvi, and others were even born anil travelled amongfl; them. AVith thefe you may march over to the river Omolon, down which you may float on rafts to the Kovima. Arrived at the Kovima, you are to make geographical a:ul agronomical obfervations of the latitude and longitude of Virehnoi and Neizfli- noi Kovimlki Ollrog, and the mouth of the river •, and to take an accurate furvev of it, obferving the foil and inhabitants of the adjacent country. h: A R T I C L K VII. Having determined with all poflible accuracy tlic fituation of tlie Kovima, and deferibed its courfe and the foil over which it flows, you are to endeavour, if cir- cumllanccs permit, to make ufe of boats called Shitiki, conflrucled as Ihongly as polTible, to coalt along the promontory of Tihutfki from the mouth of the Kovima to the Eaft Cape. In cafe, however, the coaiting by lea fhould be found abfoluteiy imprafticable, and the information received on the fpot give you hopes of reael-.ing it by land, you may then proceed thus to defcrilie thefe coails, going in winter over the ice. It may happen, that by thcie means \ ;i will difeover illands or lands that may lie to the north of thefe coails, and of Bering's Straits. You may con- tinue your travels and erquiries, employing different means as far as circuniflances, fafety, and the good of the fcrvlce, require. You are to make an accurate chart ; lay down the remarkable places that appear ; take views of the coall and remarkable objccls; endeavour alfo to get as much information as pollible of the country of tlie Tflmtiki, their flrength and manners ; and, wherever opportunity olTers, to contribute by your behaviour to tlie fubjei^ion of tliis nation to Rulh i, and to the good opinion of the mild government to which they fubniit. ARIICr.F, APPENDIX. No. V. l39l ARTICLE VIII. irozui Sc, may have, after having done all that it is poHible to expect from preparations for your nav gat on in the Eaftern n,-an . . i pcc.|e, ana of L .ipAuiit or .:^t:]^;-:^:::^^,-z:^^!i dl'^c 'rl "^'"rn ^•"'""-^-"' rrovifion, and other necefT.ies for ferv.c. Ih. officer . to follow .::.aiy your orders, fignals, and inftruaions. ARTICLE IX. If on any unforfecn account Oic fliips fhould not be in readln^f- .1 awaiting their l.ing huilt, c.ploy \he Ipare tin^ :r^rt^: C^^ul th (^ 1 a ' ^•"'^'^"^^■^^•°"r to bring to perfedion the charts of thefe ahnoft unknown parts of the flas ; for this purpofe. you mav emp ov nnv one of the packet-boats or galliots bc-longing to the govirnn.en ' at 017 winch you fl.ll think fittcil for the fervicc, and part of 'your dctnncnfrM' fccondary pou.t, however, mult not make you lofe f.rht of .,'''.""'"'; .^^^"^ of the Expedition, which you muft endeavour exadl; totlfij. '"""^'^ "'''"^ Wi ARTICLE X. When your (Inps are perfeftly loaded, armed, and provifioned at Ochotllc v.u arc, m company with your feeond veflll (alfo taUng under vour convovT' ^ chantsMhips that choo.), to .d. in the Inolt ..vo^rab,: ti!;: fo 'dl .'r extremity of kamtfliatka ; you are to call at the port of Petro Pavlofi'-v . Kamtihatka at whichever of the two the provinoiLnention mJ ^'7\ .; are collected. Thefe, as alfo the Kamtfliadais ordered there for the nur ofe will diilribnte to both (Inps ; you -e then to conti.u.e vou :. I^^'^r the whole chain ct ^flands extending to America, or lor th/dS:o"r ? "^ ones. ' """^ You are to make it a principal pohit of your duty to diaw up an aeanate chart of thcle .flands, detcrmming their fuuation by fr. cpicnt obfervations ; .uu^ en lo vuunng to get a knowledge of tlie bell harbou,., roads, &c. tc be f^'uud ot thcui. .40j APPENDIX. No. V. m llicm, you will extend thefe enquiries even to the coafl; of Amcricit; anel cliicfly ilireft your attention to the iflands hitherto little frequented, and not well known, which lie along and fouth of the coafl; to the eaftward of the ifland of Oonlma!:, a:id the great promontory of Alakfa, which is part of the c? .tincnt. .Such iflands, for example, as Sanajak, Kadiak, and Lefnoi, the ifland;-: of Shumagin and Too- manoi, feen by Bering and others. During your "avigalion in thefe fcas, if you fliould meet with other fliips, undci Englifli, French, or other European colours, you are. to bt-'^ave in a friendly man- ner, and not give occafion for difpute. ARTICLE XL ILning ufefuliy employed the fummcr in thefe enquiries, you may, at the fettiiig- in of the (lormy feafon in autumn, look out for a proper harbour, either in Ame- rica, or on the iflands lying in thefe feas, or in Kamtfliatka, there to wint;;r and vefrefli your men ; and you may again continue your endeavours and enquiries when the favourable feafon returns. ARTICLE XIL As fome indications obfervcd by Captain Bering on his failing towards America, and which were confirmed by the Englifli Captains Clerke and Gore at their return from the Sandwich iflands to Kamtfliatka, give reafon to conjefture that there arc iflands fituated to the fouthward of the known chain of iflands, and to the eafl:- ward of the meridian of Kamtfliatka, between forty and fifty degrees of latitude, you may try, on your going, or in your return, to difcover thefe unknown iflands, and get information refpeftiiig them, for the good of the trade of Kamtfliatka ; not, however, lofing too much time on thefe uncertain trials. ARTICLE XIII. You are aiuhorifed to make enquiries about fuch parts of tlie continent of Ame- rica as former navigators could not well furvey on account of bail weather; chiefly endeavouring to difcover their bell: harbours, wliich may fevve In time for opening a fur trade with the inhabitants of the Continent ; and in all cafes prlnciprdiy cn- r^- till he recovers, or, if neceflary, till your rett'rn. ^ '^ ''"'''^'°'^ ARTICLE XV. On fl,ch coals and iflands as you Hull fi.(l diiVover, whether inhabited or no^ that cannot be d.fputed, and are not yet fubjeQ to any European nou-er ou are, wuh coni^nt o^ the inhabitant, (if any), to take po/iciiion i„ th' n;i^ lier ..penal Majefty the Sovereign of all the Ruflias; of the place,,, lu.f andall acUantages wheh you think ufeful, in the manner prcferib.l in the fo' lowing Article. ^ '"'" ARTICLE XVL When you bnng under Rufli.n fubjeaion ncwiy-difcovered and indcpend.v nations, or people, yo| are to oW^rve the f^.!lo.•i„g directions. As fueh n^ont iKive moft proba !y nM been infuhed by any Europeans, vour fiWl cnv i^uO^^ D chieflvto „ve them a good opinion of tlv: Rulhans. On hndin-^ iVeh n e , ' uomoiucry, you are to lend o:,c .,r two baidars, with anned meiK^n! nd of an experienced (un-n.an, with i.terprc^.rs, and Annil pvelVnts Letthem look out lor a harhom- or b.u- to Im.re vour veflM. !■, • hav chiefly to give them illand, or pn der comman with them when fuch are found, take the ^.andings and go i„ ; but if lueh harbour cannot be found, you may then lend h.ddars, or boats, whli part c.f your C- [I] mniand, on (hore. [42] A P P E N D r X. No. V. fliore, to cxAmlne if tliere be inhabitants, forcfcs, animals, &c. They aic not to land all together, hut lc;ivc a gnard over the boat^ ; and the lundcil party arc not to fcatter, but keep together. It" tliere arc inhablvants, tliey uv to fpeak to them by interpreter.i, who arc never to he fent alone, but accompanied by fome men fe- crctly or openly armed ; for it has happened, that favages hive killed or carried off interpreters, to the no fmall difappointment of the iVfcoverers. The interpreter is to fpeak to them, as from himfclf, of your friendly intention . ; to fliew ^vhich, lie is to give them clu-iee of prefents, entreat them in a friendly manner to aixept of them, and invitt the chiefs on board the fliips ; to flatter then), ,;^.Ive the.'n n'.jduls to hang about their necks ''vhich are delivered to you for the r>ur;,ofe) ; tcli iliem, that thefe medals are a tok:n of the lafting friendllMp of ihe RufTians ; aflc niul take from them what they choofe to give as the like token j perfuni. .; them tu icll all their countrymen th,r. the RmTians wKli to be their Iriends ; enquire their name, and the origin or meaning ol it j whether tluir population is numerous, particularly in males; aflc concerning their religion j ihrir idols (refpe<5ling which you nnift carefully obferve that none of your Commniui go near oi ^raBjlon, then order, upon one of the pofts prepared at Ochotik, marked with the arms of RufTia, to be cut out letters indicating the time of difcovery, a fhort account of the people, their vo- luntary fubmifllon to the Ruflian fovereignty, and that this was done by your en- deavours under the glorious reign ol the Great Cathariue the Second. Yqh APPENDIX. No. V. liil ; upon be cut lieir vo- 3ur en- Yon You are empowcveu to nnmc the illamls and countries tliat you ilillovcr as you pleafe, if they have no proper name. When tho poll is prcp.neJ, kt the inhabi- tants know that you will come on fliore to fix your injrk, wliicii you .n\,' to ilo witii proper ceremony and precaution; after whitli niilce tiie inhabitants prek-rit" 2] vomc» ^l ii [•14] APPENDIX. No. V comcn to you ag.tiii ; keep Iiiin prifoncr as fliort a time as p.'fTiblc ; aiu!, when you vlIlmIc Iiim, giv,: liim nci:v.iljric3, ami perfiiaile liim to tell hui couiitryiiicii of your lKii;ui!.ui- to liini, aiul that he may letiini to tliL: llilp with wlioni lie pleafes, without fear ; promifuig him, tl'en, prcfents of inlliuiuents lor eatching animals, or whatever he likes ; ami that he will be reeeivcd in a friemliy maimer by all your people, if lie only Ihews the meilal about his neck. When fueli pcrfon conies to your fliip with otliers, tell him, tlirougli interpreters, tluU tlie fame arms which were before to alarming to them, will, \i they chool'e it, be turned into harmlefs ihumlcr, and ferve as u mark of joy for the return of tlieir friend;;. You may then prefent tliem with fueh things as are agreeable to them ; treat them with brandv, fugar, or tobacco, which moll of tliem are iond of; give them likcwife traps and gins, fmall copper kettles, knives, needles, and nets, telling them tlie ufe of wliat they know not ; and defire them to bring you fur^, oil of animals, filli, or what tiiey Iiave ; mentioning alfo, that when others come with fuch things, they will receive what they like. Having made them, by thefe means, dcfirous of viliting you, you lay a foundation for future coUeclion of tribute ; make them incline to trade, to be Indullrlous in hunting, and more ibeiable ; and thus you will fulfil a principal point of your commiHioii, to the glory of Her Ma- jelly, and your own honour. ARTICLE XVUI. Sailing along the above-mentioned iilands, coafts, and promontories, whieli you are to defcribe, when you come to Cape tit. I'.lias, you may there, in Her Imperial Majefly's name, declare youralf Captain of the Firll Rank j and having made on tin.-. Cape fucli obfervations as are enjoined for other places, if on your return, about the illand Oonennk, or the point of Alakfa, fueh weatlicr fliould fet in as to render it unadvifab'.e to keep tlie lea on account of an approaching winter, you may fearch for wintering on the iflands of Oonalafhka, the bay named by Captain-Lieutenant LevafliL 'f tVic harbour of St. Paul's, or lie in the illand Oonemak, in the found op- pofite Akikf.!, at one vcrll and a half diflant from Alakfa •, and if not this, then go into any of t!ie bays c!i the coall of Alakfa, to the ealL or welt, where, upon Captain Krenitzin's aflaranee, mai5y fine bays may be found v/ithin 150 vevOs. Jli^re, choofmg a fafe and proper wintering place, begin immediately to build one or more huts on fliore ; ufe all manner of precaution againll the feurvy, that you may not fuller as Captain Krcrntzin did in winterini: on this coalt, who loll .ibout (i\tv men in this difordtr, and v.'as reduced fo low, that, had not Captain-Lieutenant Leva- fliefFcome with his people to Iiis afllilaiiee, he would !iot liuvc hiul people ''now to -..-.nagc APPENDIX. No. V. [45] manatee his fliip. For your Icrvicc on (horc, you m.iy take feme guns, cartridges, aiui finall fliot ; for tlie dreadful example of attacks of illaiulerr. upon t!ic Ruinan adventurers, which tliey tried alfo upon Captain Krcnitzin wlicn lie wintered at Ooneniak, niufl make you as cautious as C.iptain Krcnitzin was, but cliiefly againll their ni;^ht-attacks ; he had four polls for ni ' ; watches; had guns and fmall arms fired at Itipulated times every few minutes, to frighten the favages, wh.o tried more than once to overcome llic guard, and kill Iiiin, with all his people. You muft alfo endeavour, for your fecurity, hy fair mears and prtfents, to get tlie Ami lican cliijf; to give you fome of their children as Iioilag-s ; to whom you will behave in a friendly nvannur; hut do not take too many of them, that they may not iiicumb-r you, pn-tieulavly if provilions Ihould run flinrt. It is true, their parents ufed to briu;; them vicluals ; but it may happen tJiat they will delay ibinetimes, and then you nui(l feed them on your own (lock. You muft order your Command, that fuch as liave been lately v.oiuuLd, or L.ivc fome internal difordcr, or fuch as have even long ago liad the venereal dif.aG , ihould not eat whale's flclh ; for the wounds will open again, and tlie v-'urcal dif- ordcr will be renewed within three days, as may be fccn in Captain Kunitzin's journal. When you are on ilie idand Oonalaflika, endeavour to defcvibe the Inhabitants of it more accurately, and enquire of their migrations or origin ; why they call themfelvcs Cogolach, as thofc of the ifland of Oomnak call themfelves Kigigoos, and thofe of Alal::a Cartagaeguk ; for the name of Aleutes given to ihefe iflanders by the Pilot NevotniikoiT, was taken by him from tlie name of the iilands lying near Kamtfli.itka. Alfo, when on the ifland Oonemak, lock (for curiolity's f.ike) to fee whether tl'.c wooden crofs with a copper crucifix fixed in it, crciTted by Captain Krcnitzin near his winter maniion, be Hill exilling. In a cur in tliis crofs, look for a paper left by him ; it will ferve you in your intercourfe with the i (landers. ARTICLE XIX If, (luring your navigation, it (liouhl be neceflavy to repair your own (liip, or it' anv accident flionld render it unferviceabie, then you nuift go on board the (hip commanded by tlie fecond. Taking yourfclf the command, purfue in it yoiu- voyage and obf:rvations ; in like manner, if the fame fljould happen to the fliip of your fecond, take him and his co.npleincnt of men on board your own fhip ; for this reafon, tlie olheer commanding the faid fliip fliall be enjoi.ied in his particular inflruclions never to llparate, or ftay behind you, excepting at I'm.ill diftance, or by your exprefs order; and tlrat, ihould this liappen in a ftorm, he (hall endeavour as Icon .ffl W i >\ j 1,4 ^ n r4'5] APPENDIX. No. V. foon as polTible fo rojoln. For greater fecurity, you mull fix t'nqiKiit rciule/vuu*, that, in cafe of icpiir.itinn, you may more convtnii iitly join > .iiul you ituiII fix iilght and day fignals tor diflcrcnt acildents duviiig your voyage. .Should ^llih U or other caufes prevent your doing your duty, your fecond is to take the euminauil, and fulfil the tenor of your InftrucUons, of which he (liall have on board lii^ Willi a copy figned by you, wliich you are to give him at y(jur f.iiling fioni Ochotlk. A 11 T I C L E XX. As it frequently 'appens in thofc feas, tlut in tlie uuMirli of Odobcv heavy tog', appear, wliich make it almoll impollible to fail without danger of lofing your- felf, as it happened in 1767 in Capt.-.ln Krenit/in's Expedition with all the Ihips, and particularly to the fliip commanded by tl:e Sturman Duding, which wa:. wrecked on the 7th Kuril ifland, called iSiaiiikuta, where not oidy the lliip, but almoit all the crew were loll ; you, therefovi', and the Commander of the I'ceond veilei, mud keep a pood look out, particuLirly i imknown places, th.it no mif- fortune may happen to the fliip or to yourlelf ; wliich will be a lofs to the 'i'rea- (ury, and a hindrance to Hct M.ijeily's intention. ARTICLE XXI. In .ill that relates to the fervice of Her Imperial M.ijedy, you are to condutl yourfelf as a good and experienced oflicer -, and, as well as your fubalterns, en- deavour to deferve the graces received, and future proniiles ; for thir. reafon you are to give your fubalterns, whenever you employ them on feparate fervices, clear and determined initruftions, agreeing with the general inllruclions given to you-, and oblige them thereby, as you yourfelf are obliged, to be refponfible for faults and omiflions, made purpofely or through negle£l. . ARTICLE XXII. Having finiflied your enquiries about the iflands, ccc. in a good time of the year, or if the ftate of your crew, vtfl'els, and provifions, make it ailvifeablc to hold out another year in tliofe feas, then you may take your courfe direct to Be- ring's Straits, to pcrfeft the knowledge that you will have of tl,, Tfliutlki coalt, and try if you can get by fea to the bay Tlhaoon, or the river Kovima, if by your iirft expedition to the Kovima you fliall not have acquired I'uch perfeft knowledge, 3 that APPENDIX. No. V. C47] that all further trials mny be ufclcfs. But flioultl you fiiul the paffage to t!ic Ko- vima ill large velllls iiiipraiflicabie. then yoii may, wl.cn all that is prefcribed to be done in the Kallcrn Ocean, and about America, is accompliOied, reach a harbour on the Tlhutfki coall j and, if it promife fuccefs, land tlu.e with a ncceffary nuinl)er of men ..nd iiinrumcnts, giving orders to the commanding otficer that remain, in the (hips how long they are to wait for you (if you tliink it advifeable to keep them there), and that afterwards they fliall return to Kanufliatka, or Ochotlk, where tlicy are to cxpeft your finther orders. If the fca Ihould be free from ice along (hore, you may take fome row-boats from the veiTeis, giving, however, fome to tlie (hips ; or build there baid.u\i from materials prepared before ; by the lielp of which, fomctimes by land and fometimcs by water, you will try to get round to the river Kovima, I. tying down your route upon the chart, and making ncceffary ob- fervations, chiefly for determining what is not yet fettled on the charts. But if, after thefe trials to the north, you return yourfelf in your frigates to- wards Kamtfliatka or Ochotlk, you may endeavour to make your return as ufeful to geograpliy as pofTible, coaiting round the bay of Anadir, or touching at fuch jflands as you could not fetch in your lirll voyage. ARTICLE XXIII. At your arrival at the port of Kamtfhatka, ami afterwards at Ochotfk, you have to return the Sturmen, Cofliicks, Interpreters, and Kamtfliadals, to their refpcdive commands and places^ of abode in the government of Irkutfk, with written certificates of their behaviour, and recommendations for what each dcferves. You will alfo deliver your veffels, flores, ammunition, and provifions remaining, by fpceification, ugainfl receipt, to the Commander of Ochotfk ; and if you cm fpare fome inllruments, without hindrance to the obfervations you tn.y make on your return, you. may alfo deliver fucli againfl: receipt for the future navi[;iUi,in of Ochotlk. |c of the leablc to to Be- Ikl eoalt, by your )wledgc, that ...... ARTICLE XXIV. f HavlntT thus finiflied your Chief Expedition, and colle£led your Command that IS to return to St. Peterfburg, you are to make preparations without delay for your return, which mul;c as ufeful as poffible to the geography of the dif- ferent parts of Siberia. With this view, you may fend fome of your fubalterns with f»8] APPENDIX. No. V. With proper inflrumciUs on a tlilllroiit route; tiny might f;o \v\i]\ Mr. P.itriii lip tlic river Viliiio, and from tlicncc over tlic river Nei/lhnoi or Po. UK amino! Tongnlkn, to tlie river Jcncfei, to ("iirvey the n.itur.il euriofitie* unexplored in thofe p.irt.i. 'I'luy would do fcrviec to geoj^r.ipliy it' tiiey cou! I oht.un I'oini: knowledge of tlic advanced point which llrctcliLs f.irther tlun any other put of .Siheii.i towards the Pole, between the rivers Olonek and Jenel'-ii more efpjcially between the Katanga and Taimura ; it may be, bcfides, that you may have opp.">r- ti.nitii's of determining' or nxliiying the longitude and l.itituile of rL'm.n''x ilik* placci not fpeeified in the lill annexed } yc.i will likewifk; furvey rcinar!..ible rivers, v.hitli ii not to be negledled. A R T I C L E XXV. lo conclude this Inflruiflion, approved by Her Majefty, that nothing may be wanting to encourage your ze.d, Her Imperial Majeily has been pleafed to order the important truR to be laid on you, of making alter.itions in wliat is pre- feribed in the Articles, according to your judgment and circumfl.ances, witli the common confent of your olFicers ; chiefly, however, when undoubted advantages may arife therefrom to the Expedition, for the good of the fervice and the Em- pire. This gr.at trud will, doubtiefs, raife in your heart and thoughts a noble emulation of fueh great men as luive to their honour been employed in like fer- vices as you arc cliarged with ; and will excite you to think only how you fliall begin with zeaU purfue with good fenfe, and end with lionour, this important charge. A D D rr I O N A L A R T I C E E To the Ifijlniclioiis of Caplaiii-Lituteiiatit Billings. On the chart oppofite the river Kovimn, to the north from Bear Iflands, is ni.irked the coaft, wliich ftretehes as a continuation of the Continent of America. This has been adopted from a chart fent by Governor 'rfhetehirin in the year 1 764. A fergeant Andreeif faw from the laft of the Bear Iflands, at a very great dillance, wliat they thought a large illand, tow.ird which they went with dog (ledges on the ice, but did not arrive at it by twenty vcrlts ; they found frefh foot- (leps of a great immbcr of people who liad been that way in rein-deer (ledges ; but they, being few in number, returned to tlie Kovima. No later account of the large iflaiul, or continent, has been received ; it is therefore thouglit ncceflary to make you obferve this; as you will be on the river Kovima, and not far from thence, APPENDIX. No. V. C493 «I.n>cc. it wouKI be ufcful if you couM pofT.bly furvcy and dcfcribc. or ,t lenft .et n a .r accounts of tl,c circumdunc. of this land -, wither it be a . idl or p' oi the continent of America i if tU^r^ u^ i \ \- . " "^ ""'"•""» or P-'" rc:j No.Vi. J % ' ■■ ■ • . ■-'■ * No. vr. ^- INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE NATURALIST, MR. PJTRliX, Who is ordered to accompany the Expedition deftined for the Kovim:i and the Frozen Ocean. [?/'(■ Oii^'uial in French.^ 1*1 ER Imperiiil Majefty having been gracioufly pleafed to appoint you In quality of Natuvalift, on a voyage of difcovcry about to be undertaken under tlie Com- mand of Captain-Lieutenant Billings toward the Kovima, the Eaftern and Frozen Ocean ; very exertion is expected from you, which your honour, and your zeal for the faiences wliich you profcfs, and for the fervicc you are engaged in, can prompt : the more fo, as Her Majefty, for your encouragement, has been pleafed to give you one rank more than you now hold in the fervice of the mines, 1 ake place from the day on which you join the Expedition ; likewife a fum of i jbles to defray the expences of your equipment ; and double pay during the term of the Expedition i in which you will certainly have opportunities of making difcovcrics, and rendering fervices, which will entitle you to the further protection of Her Im- perial Majefty. In order to give you a full infight into what is expefted from you, Her Imperial ^lajefty has been gracioufly pleafed to approve the following articles, to ferve' for your inilrudtion. ARTICLE L Upon the arrival of Captain-Lieutenant Billings at Irkutfk, you will pafs from the fervice that you are now employed in, to the E-xpedition under his command, with / APPENDIX. No. VI. C50 with wliicli you arc to continue fo long as it lafts, and with which you will return to St. Pcterfburg ; where you will give up your journals, obfervations, and col- leftions, together with fuch fpccimens of natural hiflory as you may have col- kfledj to the department which Her Imperial Majefty will name for their re- ception. ARTICLE n. .«? A You are to follow the Commander of the Expedition in all his journies by lanti, and voyages by fea, beyond the river Lena ; and you will afliduoufly obfcrve all that is prefcribed in thefe inftruftions ; particularly in thofe parts of Siberia, as well as coafts and iflands, which have never been vifited by naturalifts ; fuch as the banks of the Kovima, the coafts of the Frozen Ocean of the Pacific, and Kamtfliatka, and the iflands you will there touch at. You will keep an exaft journal of the voyage, together with a topographical defcription of the countries that you are to pafs through, their rivers, lakes, and mountains ; the produdlious in the three kingdoms of nature, and the inhabitants. You will alfo make me- teorological obfervations, and remarks upon the feveral properties of the countries that you may vifit, from the beft intelligence you can colled. ifs from nimand, with ARTICLE III. You will defcribe in a very particular manner the extent, connexion, and direc- tion, of the chain of mountains ; their (hapes, fuperfices, declivities, and heights ; the rocks or foils of which they are compofcd ; the flrata thiit they contain, and their diredlion •, craters, remains of extinguiflied volcanoes, and fuch as are aftually burning. You are to colleft fpecimens of all forts of rocks, earths, petrifaftions, lava, foflil, remains of animals, minerals, falts, and fulphurs ; carefully numbering them, and noting tlie fpot where found; alfo collect all remarkable (tones and. pebbles brought down by rivers, or thrown up by the fea, as well as fuch as may be iu ufe by the inhabitants. You will dcfrvibe the furface of the country, its Irregularities, and the layers of foil found at difteront depths j the fituaiion of the country, whether low or ele- vated •, woods and underwoods, animals, birds, marlhcs, lakes, rivers great and fmall, the nature of the waters, efpecially if they appear to have any particular tiualities, the fiih found in them, and every other remarkable produdlion. [GZ] ARTICLE *™.i [52] APPENDIX. No. VI. I «£ ARTICLE IV. With regard to the people that you may vifit, you will obferve tiicir dlfpofitions and different corporeal qualifications j their government, manners, induilry, cere- monies, and fuperftitions religious or profane 5 their traditions, education, and manner of treating their women; ufeful plants, medicines, and dyes; food, and manner of preparing it •, habitations, utenfils, carriages, and veffels ; manner of life and economy ; their modes of hunting, fifhing, making war, and treatment of domeftic animals ; likcwife languages, of which you will collccl vocabularies, ac- cording to the plan fcnt with the Expedition, marking the pronunciation according to the liatin orthography. You will alfo try to procure tlu" drelll'S, ornaments, jnflrunients, and arms of thefe people, or caufe them to be drawn. You will like- wife make defcriptions of tombs and other monuments of anticjuity. ARTICLE V. Y'ou will particularly attcm! to trees, (lirubs, land and water plants ; prcferving as many fpecimens as pollible, particularly of any that are extraordinary or new ; and you will employ your Icifure time in making complete defcriptions of fuch fpecimens ; noting the feafon of their growth, flowering, and maturity. You will lofe no opportunity of remarking moll minutely fuch as may be of benefit to fociety, and which you may dlfcover to be of ufe as food for man or bcciit, or ap- plied as a remedy for any diforder ; the manner of preparing dyes, fluffs, or fkins. You will colledl fpecimens of woods, barks, gums, refins, remarkable fruits, bulbs, and roots ; as alfo every thing that may be cultivated in the gardens of Europe, noting the provincial and natural names. ARTICLE VL h You will collc(fl:, and caufe to be fluffed or otherwlfe prcferved, all extraordi- nary quadrupeds, birds, fifli, amphibious animals, infefts, fhell-fifli, or ^oopjiytes ; nbfcrving as clofely as poffible their habits, food, propagation, founds, migrations, and habitations, as well as the mode of catching them, witli the inltrumcnts and llratagems made ufe of for that purpofe. You will alfo collect as many fpecies of birds' eggs as poffible. Quadrupeds and birds of different genders and ages arc to be fluffed -, lilh, ampliibious animals, and zoophyte^, to be prcfcvvcd in Ipnlrs of wine; infecls, fliells, and dried pioduclions, fixed or packed up in cafes made for that- purpofe. ARrJCl.E \ APPENDIX. N«. VI. [53I ARTICLE VII. Meteorological obfervations, particularly thofe with the thermometer and ba- rometer, demand your firlileft attention ; but mod fo in the places where you may winter or (lay any time. You will form tables of thefe obfervations in the ufual manner, noticing all remarkable phenomena, fuch as rarhelli, Aurora Boreales, and their concomitant circumftances ; obfcrvc tlie congelation of mercury in dif- ferent manners by natural and artificial cold ; and determine by the fpirit thermo- meter the true point of congelation. The altitude of different mountains may be determined by correfponding barometrical heights. Although the predominant or variable winds, tides with their changes and di- rections, currents, and other nautical occurrences, are the more particular bufinefs of the Commander, you will not negled to make fuch obfervations as you can, and note them in your journal. ARTICLE VIIL You will inform yourfelf of all national lllnefles, efpecially endemic or epi- demic, which exift in particular latitudes, or among particular nations ; the dif- tempers of domeftic animals and horned cattle ; and the remedies moft in ufe to prevent or eafe them. ARTICLE IX. You will be careful In prcferving the natural curiofitles that you may colleft, Bumbering them, and keeping a catalogue containing the p' '.,°s where found, with defcrlptlons and other obfervations ; or all this may be exprefled on each label. The Huffed birds or animals muft be carefully dried, and fmoked with fulphur, before they are packed up ■, the boxes or packages dried and fmoked in like man- ner, and the cafes covered with pitch and with leather. To every article likely to be fpoiled by infefts or damp, particular attention muft be paid. When the Commander makes his reports, you will alfo fend your obfervations, and fuch colle£lions as are convenient •, the others are to remain in your cuftody till your return to St. Pcterfburg. rici.E ARTICLE [M] APPENDIX. No. VI. ARTICLE X. You may require from the Commander of the Expedition fuch afliftancc of men, horfts, inllrumcnts, and money, as may be neeeflary for your phyfical ope- rations j and when your prtfence is not neceflary with the Expedition, you may make cxcurfions, n-ith tlit Commander's confent, into the neighbouring country, where you may expert to meet with objerts worthy of your remarks, either phy- fical or hiftorical. Viu will receive every affiftancc for this purpofe from the Commander of the Expedition; and the draft I'man may accompany you if he be not employed on mor^ . ipovtaut buOuefs. (Signed) P. S. PALLAS. Ko. rii. No. VII. F. X T R A C ^r S AMI SVPPLEMEhlTARr OBSERVATIONS. The following Remark was made in Captain Billings's Journal, by his order, while at Oonalafhka in 1790, on ihe Ifland Sithanak. . - * ' "In confequence of complaints made to me in form, upon my firfl arrival at " Ocliotik, by feveral people wlio were fent by Government to colledt tribute of *• the Alcutan iflandcrs, a-r^inft the hunters, for cruelties to the natives, I reprc- *« fented tl:c fame, and received a private Mandate from Her Imperial Majefty, *' ordering me to infped the behaviour of the merchants and hunters in thefe parts. *' 1 have, in confequenc;, made it my bufinefs at Sithanak and Oonalaflika to make '* enquiries into the treatment which the natives receive from thefe people ; and «« have been, as well as every gentleman on board, an eye-witnefs of the abject « ftate of fl.ivery in which thefe unfortunate iflanders live under the Promyfh- «' lenicks (hunters). The company aow at Oonalaflika confifts of twelve RufTians *' and one Kamtfliadal (their vefTel is in the ftraits of Alakfa or thereabouts). Thefe «* people employ all the men of Oonalafhka and Sithanak in the chafe, taking the ** fruits of their labour to themfelves, and not even allowing the natives neceflary *' clothing. There is, therefore, no name fo dreadful to them as that of Peredof- «• fliick (the leader of a gang of hunters). Upon the arrival of their velTel at any *< place where they purpofe making a (lay, they haul her on fnore ; immediately « fend the natives out on the chafe, even to the fartheft of Sliumagin's iflands ; «« and then take by force tiie youngeft and moft handfomc of the women for their *' companions. « If another vcflel arrives, they unite their companies, or elfe the flironger <' party takes the natives from the weaker. They inflicfl on the natives what *' punilhnaents they plcaie, and are never at a lofs to invent a caufe." TRANSLA- ^$6: APPENDIX. No. Vir. TRANSLATION Of a Jiart of the Journal of cue of our Ruffian Officers ivhile ai Oonalafhka in 179O. " The company of hunters now here make their boaft tliat they clothe and feed " the iflanders ; which they do in the following manner : The natives, being under «' their controul, arc fent out in parties to chafe fea animals and catch fifh. The '•• produce of the chafe is delivered into the Company's flock, out of which the "• natives receive an allowance. Such of the inhabitants as are too infirm or too «« young to be fent o. 1 ,' nquatic excurfions, are employed in domeftic drudgery, ** and digging edible rocts } while the women are occupied in making and mending «• clothing from the inferior fkins of animals and of birds." ** The hUii*- •" were accuftomed to a£l as follows: Upon the arrival of any *' veflel atanir 'ted ifland, the Peredofftiik fent an armed boat to the habitations, *' to take from Jie r-T-ives all the furs and valuable articles that they poflefied; «« and, if the lead o*^p -:in was made, they were filenced by the muflcets of the *' hunters. Wives were taken from their hufbands, and daughters from their «« mothers ; indeed the barbarity of their fubduers to the crown of Ruflia is not " to be defcribed. They ufcd not unfrequently to place the men clofe together, " and try through how many the ball of their rifle-barrelled mufket would pafs *, «« Nor were the hunters more kind to their nwn brethren ; for if two parties in <• difFcrent interefts met, they fought together for the poirefllon of the natives, or «' formed thcmfelves into one company." A Bird of the Auk hind caught at Oonalaflika. Bill orange colour, very little curved ; both mandibles tipped and edged with black i the noftrils long and narrow, running parallel with the mouth ; an eleva- tion upon the noftrils of a light green colour, edgeu >n^ black. The feathers commenie at the bafe of the bill, and are of a d?rk alh, which is the colour of the head and neck. From the upper pa^t of the eye, along the head, to the back of the neck, is a row of fine white fatin feathers ; and another row, broader and lliortsr, leads from the corners of the mouth. The eye of a pale yellow, the pupil being fmall and of a very dark blue. The back, fcapulars, coverts of the wing, and tail, • Gregory Shelikoff has been charged with this aft of iruelty 5 and I have reafon to helieve it, from the teltiinony of fevcidl RuUianb at Ochuiflc, coiroborated by fome of the natives of this ifland. 8 are APPENDIX. No. VII. Is 7] arc dark, with a paler edging; primaries fomething lightcv j throat a ]i;;ht colour; breult and belly a dirty white ; the fore part of the legs of a livid colour ; the liiiul part, weS, ami claws, black, with tliree toes. It refides about the rocks aiul coail of Kamtfliatka, and upon all the Aleutaii iflands, and is about the fizc of a black- bird. Fiji} caught at OoiialaJ}}ka, March 23, 1792. Angling among the rocks, the hook baited with the common edible muiVlc, I cau;j;!H a fifli called by the Ruffian hunters tcrpug [mfp). It is fixteen inches long, and Ibnpcd like a mackerel. The head of a dark olive, with fcarlet fpots. Beliinil each eye, on the top of the head, is a palmated flefliy creft half an inch long, and one-eighth broad. It has five branchioftigous rays, prominent and flrong ; thefe and the lower part of tho head are of a lively fcarlet. The colour of the body of the fifli is dark olive, with blotches of fcarlet, and a dull red ; two dorfal fins fpotted in tlie iimc manner, and united at the extremities ; both rounded ; the firft confifts of twenty r ays, the fecond of twenty-two. The pedlorals large lul rounded, eighteen rays, fpotted at the dorfal, but edged with fcarlet, as is alfo the anal fin, confilting of twenty-two rays ; ventral five rays ; tail rounded ; bread and throat a lively fcarlet. On each fide of the breaft is a line of fmall dots, reaching between the ventral and pectorals, turning up to the latter, and extending In a ftrait line to the tail, very high on the back ; a fimilar line encircles the dorfal fin, there is another half an inch below it, and one near the ventrals. The flefli, gills, and infide of the mouth, are of a lively light blue, incilning to green ; when boiled it turns white, but the bone re- tains fomewhat of this colour. The fcales are fmall and rough, whence it derives its name. The fame day I caught another fi(h, about fcven inches long ; head large, but (hort ; the fides of the bony plates and head replete with fmall pits ; large mouth, with fliarp clofc-fet flonder teeth. The dorfal fin reaches from the hind part of the head to near the J|[^ which is rounded. The fifli is very fmooth ; its colour a dark olive marbled^lWh dufky green, edged with a dull red, forming broad bars that crofs the lateral line, which is llraight. A very black fifli refcmbliug a carp I frequently caught lurking under ftones ; as alfo the fathei-laflier. The armed bull-head alfo was caught in our net, and the I'potted blenny. [H] I took J sS ■ tjS] V A P P E N D I X. No. Vn. I took one fifh which adhered very fafl to a rock by means of a fucker on its belly. It is very (hort and thick, and the ficfh flabby } but it boiled Hrm. I alfo found a fifli lying dead on the beach, about five feet long, round, and fhaped like an eel, with a large mouth, and very (harp teeth. The other kinds of fifli are, halibut, cod, thornback, and feveral fpccies of falmon. THE END* :i*-' • *' , .>-■"»• « ./ Printefl by A. Strahan, t'rtnurj-StKiC. s^ M.i izt on ita ind, and jecies of ■f'..