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Les diagrammes suivarts illustrent la cr<6thode. rata >elure. :: 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 41 t ,vp^ %%^a -4{.i 1 p PUI HUNTEE & CHISHOLM'S PANORAMIC GUIDE FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. Br WM. S. HUNTEK, Je. PUBLISHED BY O. R. OHISHOLM EAILTVAY AND STEAMBOAT NEWS AGENT. ' PKINTED BY JOHN LOVELL. ST. NICHOLAS STREET 1867; T ■n /-Jy^;^ PEEFACE. The following work is intended to supply what has long appeared a desideratum to the tourist who visits Niagara and the St. Lawrence, — a Panoramic or Pic- ture Map of all the most celebrated and picturesque points along this noble river. The Author has, through a variety of difficulties and at great ex- pense, finished the work which he contemplated ; and however great may have been the task, the assur- ance and encouragement of many friends give him every reason to believe, that he will have no cause to regret the attempt of bringing before the public his Tanoramic Guide from Niagara to Quebec. As the country embraced m the range of his illus- trated scenery has been fully explored and noticed by other travellers, the Author has not deemed it necessary to add long descriptions of the different towns and villages to his work. He trusts that his T Ml viir PREFACE. Panorama itself will be found sufficient, mainly, for the object in view: viz., that of condensing much important matter within a very small space. In the selection of materials for description, he has, in addi- tion to his own. observations, availed himself of the various reliable sources of information to which he has had access. He has made free use of an excellent work, published in the form of a Hand-book, by R. W. S. Mackay, Esq.'"'" ^:.^ rr; ,.^,:'-,^: ,. -t vj- ■ ■ -■'-:^- , ^^j:;^ To difference of taste, and a necessary limit to the extent of the work, must be assigned any apparent omissions, which those conversant with the scener) of the St. Lawrence may observe. H t' i'Vf'K' Stanstkad, C. E., Oct. 25, 1856. ■K:iJ, u* ^^ /, . ■ 7 HUNTER'S PANOEAMIC GUIDE. APPROACH TO NIAGARA. The traveller in his first visit to thi^ place is impressed with a sense of inexpressible amazement. His emotions are not unlike those ot the votary of necromancy, who, when once within the magic circle, trembles under the influence of the enchanter, even before he confronts the wizard himself. A low sound, like the pealing of distant thuijder, tells him plainly that he is approaching the wonder of wonders, The Falls of Niagara ! , , tlORSE SHOE FALL. Who can forget his first view of this grand and stupendous spectacle ? The roaring is so tremendous, that it would seem that if all the lions that ever have lived since the days of Daniel, could join their voices in one " Hullah's " chorus, they would pro- duce but a whisper, in comparison to the deep diapason of this most majestic of all nature's horse shoe fall. pipes or organs. The woo Jen bridge which connects the mainland with Goat Island .wfiJ T wm^> 10 IIUNTKR'S I'ANOUAMIC GUIDE FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBLC. 11 iU 12 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE is eagerly passed, and we explore the whole of this curious crag, which is rightly named, for it is found fantastically enough to suggest that goats only coulJ find a comfort- able footing. The sublimity of tiie scene increases at every st'^p; but when we come upon the mighty Cata- ract, we gaze in speechless wonder. But wordff cannot describe the gran- deur of this scene, nor the emotions THE KAPiDs. which it excites •; neither can the pencil, any more than the pen, do it justice. The silent and the still picture wants the motion and the sound of that stupendous rush of waters. It is impossible to paint the ever rising column of spray that spires upward from the foaming gulf below, or the prismatic glory that crowns it; for there indeed has God forever " set his bow " in the cloud, and cold must be the heart that in such a scene remembers not his covenant. As neither descriptive language nor pictorial art can give an ade- quate conception of the magnitude of this wondrous Cataract, some notion may be suggested of the immense volume of water falling over the precipice, when it has been computed to be nearly 20,000,- 000 cubic feet per minute, in the Horse Shoe Fall alone ; to say nothing of the Fall on the Americaii side. The Horse Shoe Fall is 1900 feet across, and 158 feet in height; the American Fall is 908 feet wide, and 164 feet high. It is calculated that those Falls recede at the rate of a foot every year. It is here that the beauti- ful phenomenon of the rainbow iS seen to such advantagf I i / 1 i TABLE I?OCK. ** This is truly a magnificent crag, — the projection at the top being immense, from which large masses are often falhng. Many acci- dents have happened to tourists venturing too near the precipice. A small steamer, called " The Maid of the Mist," plies up and down the i-iver, for two or three mJies, and ventures even close under the Falls. Some travellers are also fond of dressing themselves in tarpaulin clothing, and going behind the projection of the impending FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. X^ )encil, e still 1 rush 1 Qn of 1 >r the 1 )rever 1 I such \JB nade- some 1 ailing ,000,- • say Fall ' all is Falls sauti- ,'■■ ^-i.' >eing acci- pice. lown -the s in ding T^BLE ROCK — NIAGARA lALLS. 2 I »^¥ ■i^. HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE ENTRANCE TO THE CAVE OF THE WINDS. cliff, behind the mighty Fall ; but the danger is, we consider, far too great for the mere sake of saying that we ha^e been under Niagara. The Table Rock, however, exists now but in memory, for it suddenly fell some years ago. Had this accident occurred an hour or two earlier in the day, the Victoria Bridge, the Grand Trunk Railway, and all other Canadian undertakings thereunto pertaining, would be a dream of the future, and not a substan- tiality of the present ; for a very short time previous to the disappearance of the slippery granite, there were standing upon it, view- ing the Falls, the engineer of the Bridge, and several of his colleagues in the enter- prises that have been mentioned. -v , About three miles below the Falls is a frightfully wild spot, called the "Whirlpool. The ravine is termed the Bloody Run, from a sanguinary en- gagement between two hos- tile Indian tribes. No hu- man effort could possibly rescue the unfortunate in- dividual who should happen to become entangled in the eddies of this pool. It is supposed that there is a subterraneous current from this spot, lietween it and the Falls there was a temporary suspension bridge ; but it has been superseded by a stronger one for the Great Western K'lilvvay of Canada. Close to the Falls is a very fine hotel, situated on the Canadian side, from whence the two Falls may be seen to great advantfige ; although the choicest point of view we consider to be above the Falls altogether. Nothing can exceed the gt*andeur of the view here ; and, to repeat a former remark, no art or description cim fully realize the beauty and sublimity of the scene. FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUKBEC. i 15 eat be of ■ion THE DEVIL'S HOLE is a large triangular chasm in the bank of the riverj three ".nd a half miles below the Falls. The Bloody Run, as previously .nen- lioned, falls into this chasm. ,s •..? The following tale will, we think, be read with interest, in connec- *^ gara. , THE HERMIT OF THE FALLS. tion with Niagara. About twenty-five years since, in the glow of early summer, a young stranger of pleasing countenance and person made his appearance at Niagara. It was at first conjectured that he was an artist, a large portfolio, with books and musical instruments, being among his baggage. He was deeply impi'essed with the majesty and sublimity of the Cataract and the surrounding scenery, and ex- pressed an intention to remain a w^eek, that he might survey them at his leisure. But the fascination, which all minds of sensibility feel .in the presence of that glorious work of the Creator, grew strongly upon him, and he was heard to say that six weeks were insuffi- cient to become acquainted with its beauties. At the end of that period he w» v still unable to tear himself away, and desired to " build tliere a tabernacle," that he might indulge in his love of solitary musings, and admire at leisure the sublimity of nature. He applied for a spot on the Three Sisters' Island, on which to erect a cottage after his own model ; one of the peculiarities of which was a draw- bridge, to insure isolation. Circumstances forbidding compliance with this request, he too'' up his residence in an old house on Iris Island, which he rendered as comfortable as the state of the case would admit. Here he remained about eighteen months, when the intrusion of a family interrupted his habits of seclusion 'and medita- tion. He then quietly withdrew, and reared fur himself a less commodious habitation near Prospect Point. When winter came, a cheerful fire of wood blazed upon the hearth, and he beguiled the long hours of evening by reading and music. It was strange to hear, in such a solitude, the iong-drawn, thrilling notes of the viol, ! 10 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE \n\\ or the softest melody of the flute, gushing forth from that low-browed hut, or the guitar breathing out so hghtly amid the rush and thunder of the never slumbering torrent. Though the world of letters was familiar to his mind, and the living world to his observation, for he had travelled widely, both in his native Europe and the East, he sought not association with mankind, to unfold or to increase his stores of knowledge. Those who had occasionally conversed with him, spoke with equal surprise and adwiiration of his colloquial powers, his command of language, and his fervid eloquence ; but he seldom and sparingly admitted this intercourse, studiously avoiding society ; though there seemed in his nature nothing of misanthropy or moroseness. On the contrary, he showed kindness to even the lium.blest animals. Birds instinctively learned this amiable trait in his character, and freely entered his dwelling, to receive from his hands crumbs or seeds. . But the absorbing delight of his solitary residence, was commu- nion with Niagara. Here he might be seen at every hour of the day or night, a fervent worshipper. At the gray dawn lie went to visit it in the vail of mist ; at noon, he banqueted in the full splendor of its glory ; beneath tiie soft tinting of the lunar bow he lingered, looking for the angel whose pencil had painted it ; and, at solemn midnight, he knelt at the same shrine. Neither the storms of autumn, nor the piercing cold of winter, prevented his visits to the temple of his adoration. There Avas, at this time, an extension of the Serappin Bridge, by a single beam of timber, carried out ten feet over the fathomless abyss, where it hung tremulously, guarded only by a rude parapet. Along this beam he often passed and re- passed, in tlie darkness of night. He even took pleasure in grasp- ing it with his hands, and thus suspending himself over the awful gulf; so much had his morbitl enthusiasm taught him to revel amid the terribly sublime. Among his favorite gratifications, was thai of bathing, in which he indulged daily. One bright but rather chilly day in the month of June, 1831, a man, employed about the ferry, saw him go into the water, and for a long lime after observed his clothes to be still lying upon the bank. The poor hennit had taken his last bath. It was supposed that FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 17 cramp might have been induced by the chill of the atmosphere oi* the water. Still the body was not found, the depth and force of the current below being exceedingly great. In the course of their search, they passed on to the Whirlpool. There, amid those boiling eddies, wa& the body, making fearful and rapid gyrations upon the face of the black waters. At some point of suction, it suddenly plunged and disappeared. Again emerging, it was fearful to see it leap half its length above the flood, then float motionless, as if ex- hausted, and, anon, spring upward, and seem to struggle like a maniac battling with a mortal foe. For days and nights this terrible scene was prolonged. It was not until the 21st of June, that, after many efforts, they were able to recover the body, and bear it to his desolate cottage. There they found his faithful dog, guarding the door. Heavily had the long period worn away, while he watched for his only friend, and wondered why he delayed his coming. He scrutinized the approaching gioup suspiciously, and would not wil- lingly have given them admittance. A stifled wail at length showed his intuitive knowledge of the master, whom the work of death had effectually disguised from the eyes of men. On the pillow was hii pet kitten, and in different parts of the room were his guitar, flute, violin, portfolio, and books, scattered, — the books open, as if re- cenfly used. It was a touching sig'nt; the hermit mourned by his humble retainers, the poor animals that loved him, and ready to be laid by strange hands in a foreign grave. . The motives that led this singular and accomplished being, learned in the languages, in the arts and sciences, improved by extensive travel, and gifted with personal beauty and a feeling heart, to seclude himself, in the flower of youth, from human society, are still envel- oped in mystery. All that is known was, that his name was Francis Abbot, that he was a native of England, where his father was a clergyman, and that he had received from thence ample remittances for his comfort. These facts had l)een previously ascertained, l)ut no written papers were found in his cell to throw additional light upon the obscurity in which he had so eflfectually wrapped the history of his pilgrimage. The lovers of romance have, however, identified his history with that of the hero of several modern tales, in which, as a matter of course, it is asserted that » « ♦ 2* i. IB HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE m ! Pi NIAGARA CITY. From the beautiful view here obtained of the Falls, this place was formerly called Bellevue. The village has mostly grown up since the time of the erection of the Suspension Bridge, at this point. The population now numbers about 1200, and is rapidly increasing. A grist mill has been erected near the Bridge, the water-wheel of which is placed beneath, requiring a shaft 280 feet long to commu- nicate with the mill, on the top of the bank. The town contains many line buildings ; prominent among these is a very large Rail- road Depot. Niagara City has grown so rapidly, and is still so much upon the increase, that a general description only can be applied to it for any length of time. 7r :>.vsiv |h '"■"'"'^' "" ^' lewiSton. /;''y"}],. This village is situated at the head of navigation, on the Lower Niagara, and is a place of considerable importance. It lies three miles below the Devil's Hole, and seven miles below the Falls. Lewiston is a pleasant, well built village, but its commercial pros- pects have been very much injured by the construction of the Erie and Welland Canals. ^ , . . ... THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE, at this point, is one of the most stupendous works of the age. The span of'this Bridge is one thousand and forty-five feet. It is carried over large towers of cut stone, and secured by anchors sunk firmly into the solid rock. It is supported by five cables upon each side. Each cable is composed of 250 strands of number ten wire, 1245 feet in length. The extreme capacity of the bridge is estimated at eight hundred and thirty-five tons. This bridge was erected in 1850, under the superintendence of E. W. Serrell, Esq., of Canada East, and is the property of a joint company of Canadians and Americans. dnSPENSION BRIDGE. FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. .- ' ■ 3. QUEENSTON. 19 QUEENSTON SUSPENSION BRIDGE. This is a small village, situated nearly opposite to Lewiston, and contains about 200 inhabitants. It is the Canadian termination of the Bridge, and is associ- ated in history with the gallant defence made by the British, on the ad- jacent heights, in the war of 1812. The village is ph'asantly situated, but it has suffered from the same causes that have retarded the growth of Lewiston. Near this point the river becomes more tranquil, the shores a^.'^'ar less broken and wild, and the change in the scenery affords a pic, - ing transition from the sublime to the beautiful. = BROCK'S MONUMENT. . ■{ This Monument stands on the Heights of Queenston, from whence the village derived its name. The present structure occupies the site of the former one, which was blown up by some T^^.'scrcant, on the 17th of April, 1840. T*>o whole edifice is one hundred and eighty -five feet high. On the sub-base, which is forty feet square and thirty feet high, are placed four lions, facing north, south, east, and west ; the base of the ped- estal is twenty-one and a half feet square, and ten feet high ; the pedestail itself is sixteen feet square, and ten feet high, sur- mounted with a heavy cornice, ornamented with lion heads and wreaths, in alto-relievo. RUIN OF THE OLD BROCK ^ asocndiug from the top of the pedestal MONUMENT. ^^ jhe top of thc basc of the shafl, the form changes from square to round. The shaft is a fluted column of liiJii ■mMi 20 .HUNTER'S PAXORAMIC GUIDE III freestone, seventy-five feet high and ten feet in diameter ; on which stands a Corinthian capital, ten feet high, on which is wrought, in relief, a statue of the Goddess of War. On this capital is the dome, nine feet high, which is reached by 250 spiral steps from the base, on the inside. On the top of the dome is placed a colossal statue of Gen. Brock. FORT NIAGARA. This Fort stands at the mouth of the Niagara River, on the Amer- ican side. There are many interesting associations connected with this spot; as,' during the earlier part of the past century, it was the scene of many severe conflicts between the Whites and the Indians, and subse- quently between the Eng- lish and the French. The names of the heroic La Salle, the courtly De Nou- ville, and the gallant Prideaux, will long retain a place in the his- tory of this country. The village adjacent to the Fort is called Youngstown, in honor of its founder, the late John Young, Esq. FORV NIAGARA. NIAGARA. This is one of the oldest towns in Upper Canada, and was fomicrly the capital of the Province. It is sit- uated where the old town of Newark stood, and is opposite to Youngstown. It faces the river on one side, and Lake Ontario on the other. The trade of this place has been diverted to St. Cath- erine's, since the completion of the Welland Canal; and the other towns upon the Niagara River have suffered in common, from the same cause. FORT MASSASAUGA. FROM XIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. TORONTO, ; n tho £)apltal City in Upper Canada, is situated on an arm of Lake Oni5»rio, thirt;, -six miles from the mouth of Niagara River. This city was formerly called Little York. The first survey was made in 1793. Toronto Bay is a beautiful inlet, separated from the main bod^ of Lake Ontario, except at its entrance, by a long, narrow, sandy beach. The south-western extremity is called Gibraltar* Point. The population, in 1817, was 1 200 ; but, at the present time, it amounts to about 60,000. With a similar progress for a few years to come, the populatic*'> of T is city will be second to none in British America. Among the pririeipal buildings of Toronto, arc a Uni- versity and a Cathedral. One of the ecclesiastical edifices deserves especial notice, — the Church of The Holy Trinity; a handsome . stinieture, erected by a donation of five thousand pounds from some liberal person from England, on condition that the whole of tlic seats should be free. The Elgin Association, for improving the moral and religious condition of the colored population, is among the most useful institutions of the place. That stupendous undertaking, the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, passes through Toronto, and promises a splendid future, not only for this city, but for every other city in the country ; for the benefits to be derived from it are incal- culable. Nature has bestowed fine rivers and vast lakes, which have already been made fully subservient to commerce ; but how wonder^ fully will commerce be advanced by the linking of these lakes and rivers by means of railways. Thus will be constituted one great unbroken medium of speedy communication from the far West of America to the shores of the Atlantic* LAKE ONTARIO. " This wonderful sheet of fresh water is 235 feet above the level of the sea, 100 fathoms deep, 200 miles long, and 60 miles wide ; therefore, in crossing it, one necessarily loses sight of land altogether. Nothing can be more delightful than sailing on its magnificent * For further particulars respec+'.ng this city, see McKay's Stranger's Guide. 1 i,. I HUNTEIfS rANORAMIC GUIDE ;"=, '.r' ■\:.1-::-> km, i, '« FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. S8 bosom, on a beautiful summer night ; but when the storm arises, its placid character is gone, and we are m.tde to feel that it is a sea in power, and may be so in swift destructiveness; for in these land-locked basins shipwrecks often occur, not merely of the frail barks of commerce, but even of the stout-built man of war, should she, when caught in one of the fierce gales which so suddenly sweep th3 lake, be unable to run for her harbor. The harbor of British armed vessels, in the waters of this lake, is Kingston. LAKE ONTABIO FBOM NIAGABA BI> EB. LAKE OKTARIO STEAMER. PORT HOPE is situated sixty-five miles from Toronto. A small stream, which here falls into the Lake, has fomied a valley, in which the town is located. The harbor formed at the mouth of this stream is shallow, but safe and commodious. Port Hope is a very pretty town ; on the western side, the hills rise gradually one above another. The highest summit, which is called " Fort Orton," affords a fine prospect, and overlooks the country for a great distance around. The village is incorporated, and contains about 2200 inhabitants. V COBOURG _ .. lies seven miles below Port Hope, and contains 4000 inhabitants. The town contains seven churches, two banks, three grist mills, two I K IIUNTEK'S TANORAMIC GUIDE ! i! :^ i|ii <,. foundries, and the largest cloth factory in the provmce. It is also the scat of Victoria College and a Theological Institute. Midway between Port Hope and Cobourg is " Duck Island," on whit.i a lighthouse is maintained by the government. KINGSTON. This place was called by the Indians, ^^Cataracqui.'* A st>ttle- ment was begun by the French, under De Courcelles, as early as 1G72. The Fort, which was finished the next year, was called Fort Frontenac, in honor of the French count of that name. This Fort was alternately in the possession of the French and the Indians, until it was destroyed by the expedition under Col. Bradstrtet, in 1758. In 17 02, the place fell into the hands of the English, from whom it received its present name, important military posts in Canada KINGSTON, Kingston is one of the most It is one hundred and ten miles from Cobourg, and contains about 11,000 inhabitants. [Before proceeding down the St. Lawrence, we will retrace our steps, and briefly notice the places on the American side of Lake Ontario.] -^ '""- "^? ^ ^ CHARLOTTESVILLE ^ ■■t\ -r^n is situated at the mouth of the Gennesee River, and is the port of entry for Rochester. It is seventy-five miles from the mouth of the Niagara. The Gennesee is navigable by steamers to Carthage, five miles from its mouth. At Carthage, passengers can take omnibuses to Rochester, two miles distant. iiii . , OSWEGO is the next port, after passing Charlottesville. ^ It is a beautiful and flourishing town, and contains a -population of about 15,000. If It is / FROM MAGARA lALLS TO QUEBEC. 25 1 and It is / •^ 'tmmmmimfttim^ m m i ' !l lili Ml (, J. 1 , , 26 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE the commercial centre of a fertile and wealthy part of the country, and is the terminus of a railroad and a canal, con- necting it with Syracuse and the New York Cen- tral Railway. The his- tory of this place is asso- ciated with many hard battles, fought during the time of the Indian and the French wars. cape st. vincbnt railroad depot. SACKETT'S HARBOR. This place is situated about forty-five miles from Oswego, and twenty miles from the St. Lawrence. It lies upon the north-eastern shore of Lake Ontario, and derives its name from Mr. Sackett, of Jamaica, L. I., who purchased and took possession of it in 1799. It is admirably fitted, from its position, for a naval station, and is now the seat of a military post, called " Madison Barracks." THE THOUSAND ISLANDS are amongst the wonders of the St. Lawrence ; situated about six miles below Kingston. There are, in fact, no less than 1800 ot these " emerald gems in the ring of the wave," of all sizes, from the islet FORT HENRY — JIARTELI-O TOWER CEDAR ISLKHV. LIOHTHOUSE ON ONE OF THE XUOUeAND ISLANDS. a few yards square, to miles in length. It is a famous spot for sporting; myriads of wild fowls of all descriptions may here be i|: FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. «W found; and angling is rather fatiguing than otherwise, from the great quantity and size of the fish. These islands, too, have been the scene of most exciting romance. From their great number, nnd the labyrinth-like channels among them, they afforded an admirable retreat for the insurgents in the last Canadian insurrection, and for the American sympathizers with them ; who, imder the questionable name of " patriots," sought only to embarr'iss the British Govern- ment. Among these was one man, who, from his dai-ing and ability, VIEWS AMONG THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. became an object of anxious pursuit to the Canadian authorities ; and he found a safe asyl::m in these watery intricacies, through the devotedness und courage of his daughter, «hose inimitable manage- ment of her canoe was such, that through hosts of pursuers she baffled their efforts at capture, while she supplied him with provi- sions in these solitary retreats, rowing him from one place of con- cealment to another, under shadow of the night. But, in truth, all the islands, which are' so numerously studded through the whole chain of those magnificent Lakes, abound with materials for romance and poetry. For instance, in the Manitoulin Islands, in Lake Huron, the Indians believe that the Manitou, that is, the Great Spirit (and hence the name of the islands) has forbidden his chil- dren to seek for gold ; and they tell you that a certain point, where it is reported to exist in large quantities, has never been visited by the disobedient Indian without his canoe being overwhelmed in a tempest. CLAYTON. This village is situated on the American side, opposite to the " Thousand Islands," and is of considerable importance as a lumber t t t ■MHMH u Ij 'H' l/ij! 28 HUNTLR'S PANORAMIC GUIDE station. Square timber and staves are here made up into large rafts, and floated down the St. Lawience to Montreal and Quebec. These rafts are often very large ; and as they require a great number of men to navigate them, the huts erected for their shelter give them, as they pass down tie river, the appearance of small villages. Many of the steamers and other craft that navigate Lake Ontario are built here. ALEXANDRIA BAY is the next port, after leaving Clayton. It is built upon a massive pile of rocks, and its sit'iution is romantic and highly picturesque. It is a place of resort for sportsmen. Some two or three miles below the village, is a position from whence one hundred islands can be seen at one view. BROCKVILLE. This village was named in honor of General Brock, who fell on Queenston Heights, in the war of 1812. It is situated on the Cana- dian side of the St. Lawrence, and is one of the pleasantest villages in the province. It is situated at the foot of the Thousand Islands, on an elevation of land which rises from the river in a succession of ridges. The town was laid out in 1802, and is now a place of con- siderable importance. The present population is about 2500. OGDENSBURGH. In the year 1748, the Abbe Francois Piquet, who was afterwards stylt d the " Apostle of the Iroquois," was sent to establish a mis- sion at this place, as many of the Indians of that tribe had mani- fested a desire of embracing Christianity. A settlement was began in connection with this mission, and a fort, called " La Presentation," was built at the mouth of the Oswegatchie, on the west side. The remains of the walls of this Fort are still to be seen. In October, 1749, it was attacked by a band of Indians from the Mohawks, who, although bravely repulsed, succeeded in destroying the pallisades of the fort, and two of the vessels belonging to the colony. The Abbe Piquet retired from the settlement soon after the defeat of Mont- calm, and finally returned to France, where he died in 1781. FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 29 a massive In describing the situation of the ground on the east side of the river, opposite to his fort, the Abbe, with his accustomed discimina- tion, remarked : " A beautiful town could hereafter be built here." This prediction has been fully verified ; and the village of Ogdens- burgh now occupies this site. It is a flourishing town. It has increased rapidly within the few past years, and will doubtless become a large manufacturing place. The Northern Railroad, which runs to Lake Champlain, a distance of one hundred and eighteen miles, and which connects at Rouse's Point with the railroads to Boston and Montreal, has its terminus here. ^ PRESCOTT is situated on the Canada side of tli St. Lawrence, opposite Ogdens- burgh, and contains about 3000 inhabitants. Previous to the open- ing of the Rideau Canal between Kingston and Ottawa City (formerly Bytown), Prescott was a place of importance in the carrying trade between Kingston and Montreal ; but since that event its growth has been checked. Matters have, however, again changed, and for Prescott there are prospects of brighter days to come. Through the influence, and energy, and untiring perseverence of Robert Bell, Esq., of Ottawa City, a railroad has been built, under almost insurmountable obstacles, which extends from Ottawa City to Prescott, and there connects the Ottawa River with the St. Law- rence. The enterprise has, thus far, more than realized the most sanguine hopes of ity projector. About a mile Delo>v the town of Prescott, at a place called " Wind- mill Point," are the ruins of an old stone windmill, in which, in 1837, the "Patriots," under Von Shultz, a Polish exile, established themselves, but from which they were driven with severe loss. About five miles below Prescott is Chimney Island, on which the remains of an old French fortifica- tion are to be seen. The first rapid of the St. Lawrence, is %t this island. 8* WINDMILL POINT. I 'mmmmm 30 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE The next town on the American side is Waddington ; and in the river, over against it, is Ogden Island. On the Canada side is Morrisburg, formerly called West Williamsburg. It is catied the Port of Morristown, and contains about two hundred inhabitants. GALLOPS RAPIDS CHHYSELER 8 FARM. It^ II III A short distance below Morristown, on the Canada side, is Chryse- ler's Farm, where, in 1813, a battle was fought between the En- glish and the Americans. The Americans were commanded by Gen. Wilkinson, ond were at that time descending the river to attack Montreal. The attempt was afterwards abandoned. Thirty miles below Ogdensburgh is Louisville, from wheuce stages run to Massena Springs, distant seven miles. . ,, „,,i, , .... , M '.^•' ¥'f*f/. LONG SAULT. This is a coiitiuuous rapid of nine miles, divided in the centre by an island. The usual passage for steamers is on the south side. The channel on the north side was formerly considered unsafe and dangerous ; but examinations have been made, and it is nov/ de- scended with safety. The passage in the southern channel is very narrow, and such is the velocity of the current that a raft, it is said, will drift the nine miles in forty minutes. f, , 411 ^ DESCENT OF THE RAPIDS. t> This is the most exciting part of the whole passage of the St. Lawrence. The rapids of the " Long Sault " rush along at the rate of something like twenty miles an hour. When the vessel enters within their influence the steam is shut off and she is carried FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 81 t I I I '<'"<*n>MH«M«ll«MH«nMM ^..f^Mum 32 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE *. ../ i;- 'ii m BATISTE, AN INDIAN PILOT, STEERING A STEAMER DOWN THE RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE- FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 88 LONG 8AULT RAPIDS. onwards by the force of the stream alone. The surging waters present all the angry appear- ance of the ocean in a storm ; the noble boat strains and labors : but, unlike the ordi- nary pitching and tossing at sea, this going down hill by water produces a highly nov- el sensation, aiid is, in fact, a service of some danger, the imminence of which is enhanced to tlie imagination by the tremen- dous roar of the headlong, boiling current. Great nerve, and force, and precision are here required in piloting, so as to keep the vessel's head straight with the course of the rapid ; for if she di- verged in the least, presenting her side to the current, or " broached to," as the nautical phrase is, she would be in- stantly capsized and sub- merged. Hence the neces- sity for enormous power over her rudder ; and for this purpose the mode of steering affords great facility, for the wheel that governs the rudder is placed ahead, and by means of chain and pulley sways it. But in descending the rapids a tiller is placed astern to the rudder itself, so that the tiller can be manned as well as the wl^oel. Some idea may be entertained of the peril of descending a rapid, when it requires four men at the wheel and two at the tiller to ensure safe steer- ing. Here is the region of the dar- ing raftsmen, at whose hands are demanded infinite courage and skill ; and, despite of both, loss of hfe frequently occurs. VIEW IN THE LONG SAULT. RAFT DESCENDING rilE RAPIDS. 1^ f' ^■: at: *'■ ■."•'. I J II' I > Si HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE ! *'~-' -» r< "S- \ ! ■;! !l III! FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC ' tt ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. Gallops Canal, ------- Point Iroquois Canal, ------ Rapid Piatt Canal, - - - - - - Farren's Point Canal ------ Cornwall Canal, Long Sault, - - - - Beauharnois Canal, Cotcau, - - - - Cedars, Split Rock, Cascade Rapids, La Chine Canal, La Chine Rapids, Fall on portions of the St. Lawrence be- tween canals from Lake Ontario to Montreal, -------- From Montreal to tide water at Three Rivers, Miles. Locks. 2 2 3 1 4 2 1 1 Hi 7 Hi 9 8i 5 41 27 L. Ft. 8. 6. 11.6 4. 48. 82.6 44.9 17. 12.9 234.4 The St. ijawrence canal was designed for paddle steamers, but from the magnitude of the rapids and their regular inclination the aid of the locks ?s not required in descending the river. Large steamers, drawing seven feet water, with passengers and the mails, leave the foot of Lake Ontario in the morning, and reach the wharves at Montreal by daylight, without passing through a single ENTRANCE TO CORNWALL CANAL. Dickinson's landing. lock. At some of the rapids there are obstacles preventing the descent of deeply laden crail ; but the goAcrnment are about to give the main channel in all the rapids a depth of ten feet water, when the whole descending trade by steam wiU keep the river, leaving the canals to the ascending craft. ! I 1 mmmmm jjjjggjj^^jji^^w^ tittSi 3 IIP t 1 ' 1 . iH »6 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE * • CORNWALL. This is a pleasant town, situated at the foot of the Long Sault, on tlie Canada side. Here vessels are passed up the river by tiie Cornwall canal, and come out into the river about twelve miles above. The boundary line between the United States and Canada passes neaj* this village, and the course of the St. Lawrence is here- after within Her Majesty's dominions. ST. REGIS is an old Indian village, and lies a little below Cornwall, on the opposite side of the river. It contains a Catholic church, which was built about the year 1700. While the building was in progress, the Indians were told by their priest that a bell was indispensable in their house of worship, and they were ordered to collect furs suf- ficient to purchase one. The furs '''ere collected, the money was sent to Ft nee, and the bell was bought and shipped for Canada; but the vessel which contained it jvas captured by an English cruiser, and taken into Sulem, Massachusetts. The bell was afterwards purchased for the church at Deerfield. The priest of St. Regis, having ST. REGIS INDIANS. heard of its destination, excited the Indians to a general crusade for its recovery. They joined the expedition fitted out by the governor against the New England colonists, and proceeded through the then long, trackless wilderness, to Deerfield, which they attacked in the night. The inhabitants, unsuspicious of danger, were aroused from sleep only to meet the tomahawk and scalping-knife of the savages. Forty-seven were killed, and one hundred and twelve taken captive ; among whom were Mr. Wil- liams, the pastor, and his family. Mrs. Williams being at the time feeble, and not able to travel with her husband and family, was killed by the Indians. Mr. Williams and a part of his surviving family afterwards returned to Deerfield, but the others remained with the Indians, and became connected with the tribe. The Rev. Eleazar Williams, one of the supposed descendants from this family, i FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. Si has been mysteriously identified with the Ic Dauphin of France. The Indians, after having completed their work of destruction, fast- ened the bell to a long jK)le, and carried it upon their shoulders a distance of nearly one hundred and fifty miles, to the place where Burlington now stands ; they buried it there, and in the following spring removed it to the church at St. Regis, where it now hangs. LAKE ST. FRANCIS This is the name of that expansion of the St. Lawrence which begins near Cornwall and St. Regis, and extends to Coteau du Lac, a distance of forty miles. Tho surface of this lake is interspersed witli a great number of small islands. The village of Lancaster is situated on the northern side, about midway of this lake. COTEAU DU LAC is a small village, situated at the foot of Lake St. Francis. The name, as well as the style of the buildings, denotes its French origin. Just below the village art. the Coteau Rapids. ir CEDARS. This village presents the same marks of French origin as Coteau du Lac. In the expedition of Gen. Amherst, a detachment of three hundred men, that were sent to attack Montreal, were lost in the rapids near this place. The pas- sage through these rapids is very exciting. There is a peculiar mo- tion of the vessel, which in descend- ing seems like settling down, as she glides from one ledge to another. In passing the rapids of the Split Rock, a person unacquainted with the navigation of these rapids will almost involuntarily hold his breath until this ledge of rocks, which is distinctly seen from the deck of the steamer, is passed- At one time the vessel seems to be running directly upon it, and you feel CED-iR RAriDS. 'I i t J "sMBaH i! \ 3a nUXTEU'S I'ANOUAMIC UU1U£ ^' ■ i'''i: Kv. s^xj' FROM NTAGARA FALLS TC QUEBEC. 89 certain that she will striko ; but a skilful hand is at the helm, and in an instant more it is passed in safety. BEAUIURNOLS is a small village at the foot of the Cascade;^, on the south hank of the river. Here vessels enter the Beauharnois canal, and jmss around the rapids of the Cascades, Cedars, and Coteau, into lake St. Francis, a distance of fourteen miles. On the north bank, a branch of the Ottawa enters into the St. Law- rence. The river again widens into a lake called the St. Louis. From this place a view is had of Montreal Mountain, nearly thirty miles distant. In this lake is Nun's Island, which is beautifully cultivated, and belongs to the Gray Nunnery, at Montreal. There %»^..V,ftri::. mm^--^'^^^ CASCADES FnOM ENTRANCE TO BKAUIIARNOIS CANAL. are many islands in the vicinity of Montreal belonging to the dif- ferent nunneries, and from which they derive large revenues. LA CHINE. - ; This village is nine miles from Montreal, with which it is con- nected by railroad. The La Chine Rapids begin just below the town. The current is here so swift and wild that to avoid it a canal has been cut around these rapids. This canal is a stupendous work, and reflects much credit upon the energy and enterprise of the people of Montreal. i N ■ 'f •^mmimmmmmmmiimKmitii (!■ iJ«i \i 40 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE CAUGHNAWAGA. This is an Indian village lying on the south bank of the river, near the entrance of the La Chine Rapids, it derived 'ts name from the Indians that had been converted by the Jesuits, who were called " Cmiffhnawagas," or " pray- ing Indians." This was prob- ably a misnonl^r, for they were distinguished for their predatory incursions upon their neighbors in the New England provinces. The b ** • )ttawa jastem risle. for a name % city is IS first ■ ^ )thing tatitly had a ) upon ', into "I )f the lower » hew • •';?•.? :,-■>. --. FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 41 fill jt ii HI 'limirini HU!TTER*S PAKORA.\lrc attlDfl also were tlie place of arms, the royal magazines, and the Nunnery Hospital. The principal buildings were in the upper town, such as the palace of the Governor, the houses of the chief officers, the Con- vent of the RecoIIets, the Jesuits' Church and Seminary, the Free School, and the Parish Church. The houses were solidly constructed in that semi-monastic style peculiar to Rouen^ Caen, and other towns in Normandy : some of the buildings of that period are atill standing. It was for a lon<3 time the head quarters of the French forces in Canada. In 1763 it was surrendered to the English, and about that time it was described as a city of an oblong form, surrounded by a wall flanked with eleven redoubts, a ditch about eight feet deep, and of a proportionable width, but dry, and a fort aud citadel. At the beginning of the present century vessels of more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, and its foreign trade was carried on by small brigs and barques. lu 1809 the first steam vessel, called The Accommodation, built by thj fTr> '.hn Molson, made a trip to Quebec ; she had berths for about twenty passengers. Now, behold the contrast that fifty years of industry, intelligence, enterprise and labour have produced — -ocean steamers of 3000 tons ; the magnificent steamers of the Richelieu Company, vying in splen- dour and comfort with the far famed Hudson River boats ; ships, from 700 to 1200 tons, from all parts of the world, lying alongside the wharves of the harbour — which are not equalled on this continent, in point of extent, accommodation, approach and cleanliness. The city, as seen from its approach by steamboat, with Mount Royal for a back ground, covered with beautiful villas, intersw'^od here and there with tall spires, is majestic, and for beaut^ * ;>■ oi?t unrivalled -, , The river frontage is nearly three miles in length, extending fa the Victoria Bridge to the village of Hochclaga. For upwards oi a mile it has an excellent stone retaining wall from the entrance to the Lachine Canal to below the Bonsecours Market, which, with its glittering dome, forms one of the most conspicuous objects in the right foreground, and contrasts with the neighbouring spire of the Bonsecours Church, one of the oldest churches in Montreal. We scarcely think the view can bs paralleled as you pass under t-i'» centre •See page 48. PROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. m tube of the Victoria Bridge, and first view the long array of glitter- ing spires, the lofty towers of the Parish Church of Notre Dame, the well proportioned tower of the Royal Insurance Buildings, and the long unbroken line of cutstone stores flanking the wharf, from the steamrr. LIVEnPOOL AND MOSTREAL SCREW STEAMER. We will now suppose the stranger landed at the base of Jacques Cartier Square : the first thing arresting his eye will be the Bonsc- cours Market and Town Hull ; it is an imposing building of a quasi- Doric character, surrounded with a largo dome ; it is divided into tliree stories, the basement and first floor serving the purpose of a market, which is always supplied with an excellent stock of provisions. The upper part is occupied by the various city offices, and by the city concert hall — a room capable of containing four thousand persons. The building cost abo it £75,000. Proceeding through Jacques Cartier Squaro he neea not pause to examine Nelson's monument, but can turn to the left and view the Court House, an Ionic structure, about a hundred and twenty feet long by about seventy in height ; it contfuns all the judiciary courts, as well as the Prothonotary's office uud Court of Bankruptcy. There is a very valuable law library, containing upwards of GOOO voUimes. At the back of the Court House is the Champ de Mars, a well kept parade ground, upon which the different regiments in garrison, and the Volunteer Militia parade : upon it three thousand troops may be manoeuvred. During the summer some one or other of the regiments of the line, or the Volunteers, are exercised — occasionally the military bands play here. Going from the Court House, on the road to the St. Lawrence or si II! u HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUmE S^. W*..^.*-*'-4^i»^*^vi'«h. pmr- V< *atSS^'' FROM NIAGARA PALLS TO QUEBEC. 45 Ottawa hotels, the visitor enters a square called Place d'Armes. It is not large in dimensions, but few on this continent, if any, can equal it in point of its buildings. On the left is the Cathedral of Notre Dame, said to be the largest in North America, and capable of holding ten thousand people. It is about 2G0 feet long, by 140 feet broad, and the front facing the square is flanked by two massive towers 220 feet in height. In the one on the left there is a peal of bells, one of which goes by the name of " Gros Bourdon." It is said to weigh nearly 30,000 lbs. ; it has a deep bass sound, and is used as a fire alarm. The tower on the right can be ascended upon the payment of a small fee, and from its battlement a most wonderful prospect is obtained — the broad rolling waters of the St. Lawrence, nearly two miles wide, lying almost at the feet of the spectator, covered with shipping; to the right the Victoria Bridge, Nun's Island, the village of Laprairic, with the glittering steeple, the boiling rapids of Lachinc, the blue hills of Vermont in the fiir off distance — to the left, the beautiful island of St. Helens, covered with trec^s clothed in the proud prosperity of leaves, the villages of St. Lambert and Longueuil, and the river studded with islands, until its silver course is lost at the village of Verchcres. On the side of the square facing the Cathedral are the Montreal and City Banks. The former one of the most imposing public buildings in the city ; it is built of cut limestone ; its style, modern Grecian. On the left hand of the square arc the Merchants Bank, Ontario Bank, the London and Liverpool Insurance Company's ofl5cc. The former is built of Ohio sandstone, the style is Italian ; the propor- tions are good. This row is a pretty piece of street architecture. On the right hand side is a fine block called Muir's buildings — a very imposing edifice. The fourth story is occupied by the honorable fraternity of Freemasons, hoiiing under the Canadian Register. The lodge room is 52 feet long by 34 feet wide, and is 16 feet high. There are several anterooms. The interior of the lodge room is well furnished and decorated. Next to this block is the British and American Express ofl&ces, and the Cosmopolitan Hotel, kept by Gianelli. The centre of the square is laid out as a garden, with a fine fountain. •■ : - vt 1 1 '% 1^ 46 . J, hunter's panoramic guide i ' Adjoining the square is Great St. James Street, in which there are pome fine buildings — The Post Office, a well proportioned building, and very con- veniently arranged. Opposite to it is the far famed hostelry, the St. Lawrence Hall, H. Ilogun, proprietor. Passing down this side of the street the first building that arrests the attention is the Methodist Church, a very commodious and well arranged interior; it possesses one of the finest organs in the city. Just below is Nordheimer's Hall — the basement is occupied by Messrs. Gould and Hill, music instrument sellers. On the first floor is a music hall capable of holding a thousand people, it is well adapted for sound. At the end of the street is a large block occupied by the firm of Henry Morgan & Co., dry goods merchants ; it occupies the site of the old American Presbyterian church, built in 1825-G. Nearly opposite this is the Ottawa hotel, kept by W. Browning. Passing on is a novel store front, the premises of Messrs. Prowse ; it is highly ornamental and composed of zinc. Next is Molsons Bank, the most pretentious building in Montreal ; it has two frontages or fti^ades faced with Ohio sandstone. The shafts of the Doric columns of the portico and those of the Corinthian columns on the Great St. James street front are of polished Peterhead granite. Turning down Peter street, past Molsons Bank upon the left, is a very handsome block, " Caverhill's Buildings " — these stores, without exception, are not surpassed by any thing in British North America. They are six stories in height, cut limestone. The front is an ela- borate composition in the Italian Palazzo style, bold and massive in character. At the bottom of Peter street runs right and left St. Paul street, wherein are congregated nearly all the principal dry good and hardware stores. This street is a credit to the modern enterprise of Montreal. It is symbolic of the wealth of the city. The same remark will equally apply to the stores in Lemoine and McGlll streets. In short, the rapid growth of Montreal during the past seven years is scarcely with a parallel in the history of even such cities as Chicago, New York, or Boston. It will now be simply a duty to point out the various places and things in the city or vicinity of Montreal worth seeing. Foremost is the Geological Museum, facing the Champ de Mars, FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 47 ela- the !uch and ars. in Gabriel street ; this is an institution that Canada may well be proud of. It is under the direction of that able geologist. Sir Wm. Logan, than t? >ra this science has never had one whose soul was more in his v^ork, and whoso ability was better able to direct the geological survey of so greac a mineral country as Canada. The University of McGill College, with its museum, and that of tlie Natural History Society, near the English Cathedral, are well worthy inspection. The tourist can gain information relative to the zoology and ornithology of Canada ; and to those who are disciples of Isaac Walton, from the curator of the Natural History Society who can give any information regarding the fishing grounds. It has been remarked, " let me see the resting place of the dead, and I will form an estimate of the living." Granting the premises, we can say, go to the Mount Royal Cemetery. It will compare favourably with the far-famed P6re la Chaise at Paris. The ceme- tery is passed in what is called " the drive round the two mountains" ; this is a favourite pastime with the inhabitants of Montreal, and a very delightful drive it is ; going by St. Lawrence street, there is a fine country from C6te des Neiges across the island to the " Back River" or Ottawa, with its numerous hamlets, convents and churches ; and for a pic-nio commend us to the Priests' Island, close to the old mill by the rapids, Sault au Recollet, a delightful spot, and where, during the season, a good day's fishing is to be had. The drive out to Lachine, by tho upper road, is a great favourite. Crossing over to the Indian village of Caughnawaga, and going off with the pilot, and shooting the rapids, ought not to be missed by the tourist who has not come from the West by steamboat. The piloting is generally confined to the Indians, though why they should have more nerve than others we cannot conjecture ; the task seems a peril- ous one, but it has been done so often without accident that the most timid need not be alarmed, though the steamer is carried away at the rate of nearly thirty miles an hour, apparently not under command, as she plunges madly into the boiling rapid, where the breakers are huge waves, and the spray is dashed sometimes over the funnel of the steamer. There is a keen eye and a steady hand at the wheel. This is an excitement that must be realized ; it fails in description. A day may be spent with pleasure at tl'.e little village of St. Annes, iiiir.iMg?''^ 1 I i! J 1 1 : 48 HUNTER*S PANORAMIC GUIDE the place where Tom Moore composed his celebrated Canadian boat song, " Row, brothers, row, the rapids arc near," &c. The journey can be made either by train to Lachinc, thence per Prince of Wales steamer, and back by Grand Trunk Railway — or vice versa — the time of starting either way being at the choice of the tourist. ' :i< ...^ ,;■''■.-■'■'*- MONTREAL AND VICTORIA BRIDOB. The Victoria Bridge ought to be visited ; on application to the engineer's office of the Grand Trunk Railway at Point St. Charles, a ticket can be procured to pass through it on foot, the only way in which this grand piece of engineering triumph can be seen with advantage. It is a wonderful structure, and reflects as much credit on the successful builders as upon the original designers. The bridge proper rests upon twenty-four piers, and is about a mile and quarter long. The piers are ail at a distance of 242 feet, with the exception of the two centre piers ; these are 330 feet^ upon these rest the centre tube, which is 60 feet above the summer level of the St. Lawrence. The piers, or at least their abutments, present to the down stream, which is about seven miles per hour, a sharp-pointed e ge, to resist the pressure of the ice in the winter, which ofiFera a resistance of many thousands of tons ; the piers are calculated to resist a pressure of seventy thousand tons. At the centre of the bridge is an opening, so that the visitor may ascend to the top of the centre tube ; from this there is a magnificent view of the river. The important part this bridge plajs with the uninterrupted communica- tion of the Western traffic with that of the United States — Boston, Portland, &c. — need not be dilated on. It is more than commen- surate with its cost— nearly 7,000,000 dollars. It gives to Montreal an unbroken railway communication of 1,100 miles, besides con- FROM NIAGARA PALLS TO QUEBEC. 49 nections. Kobert Stevenson was the engineer, and Jas. Hodges the builder. The Engineering Works of the Grand Trunk Railway, at Point St. Charles, near the western end of the Victoria Bridge, are well worthy a visit. Upon application to Richd. Eaton, Esq., the superintendent of the locomotive department, a ticket of admission may be obtained. Another favourite trip is that to Belooil Mountain, near St. Hilaire. The latter is a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, about 18 miles from Montreal, and where several trains stop during the day, 80 that there will be no difficulty in performing the trip without remaining at the village for the night. From St. Hilaire Station the tourist proceeds to the pretty little village of Beloeil, and when conducted to the base of the mountain, it can be aBcendtd with comparative ease — even by ladies — by a circuitous path, passing through a maple grove, which leads to a beautiful lake, formed in the hollow of the mountain. Thic lake abounds with fish. This is the general resting place, before the ascent to the peak, upon the summit of which used to be a small oratory, surmounted with a huge cross covered with bright tin; this cross was visible upwards of thirty miles. From the site of the oratory, about 1,500 feet above the level of the River St. Lawrence, can be obtained a panoramic view, sixty miles in radius. The Eiglish Cathedral (Episcopal), in St. Catherine street, is by far the most perfect specimen of Gothic architecture in America. It is well worthy a visit. The whole neighborhood is studded with churches — Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Wesloyan Methodist — each vying with a lofty spire to make the ecclesiastical architecture of the city worthy of comparison with the many public buildings with which Montreal abounds. The new Church of the Jesuits is a very imposing edifice. The interior is covered with frescoes of some incident in the lives of our Saviour and his Apostles. Erskine Church, and John Knox Church, ^Scotch Presbyterian), are two fair specimens of modern Gothic. The Wesleyan Church, with its graceful lantern and spire, forms a conspicuous object, though its dimensions are overtopped by the large American Presbyterian Church adjoining it. I ■ i! :; :1 '■I T 60 hunter's panoarmio guide 11 ;i m ii (! II A little further westward is a pretty little Gothic Church (Episcopalian), dedicated to St. James the Apostle ; and beyond that agaio, the large Roman Catholic Seminary, at the Priest's farm, there is a beautiful Chapel, well worthy inspection. The grounds and gardens attached to the seminary arc the most beautiful in Canada. Water Works. The water is taken from the St. Lawrence about one and a half miles above the Lachino Rapids, where the elevation of the river surface is about 37 feet above the Harbour of Montreal. The Wheel-house at the termination of the aqueduct is worthy of notice. The water is admitted to and discharged from this building through submerged archways under covered frost proof passages, extending above and below the building. There are two iron wheels, twenty feet diameter, and twenty feet broad. These wheels are upon the suspension principle, " high breast " or " pitch back," with ventilated buckets. These reservoirs are excavated out of the solid rock, and have a water surface of over ninety thousand square feet, 206 feet above the harbour, with a depth of 25 feet. The length is 623 feet, with a breadth of 173 feet, formed into two reservoirs by a division wall. The two contain about fifteen million gallons. Total cost of acqueduct, machinery, pumping-main, and reservoirs about $1,800,000. Tire Alarm Telegraph: was recently erected, and proved a thorough success. The chief office is in the City Hall, from which it has connections with upwards of 64 boxes, the church beMs, several public clocks, the Observatory and Water Works near McGill College. * ' LONGUEUIL " is a small village on the south bank of the river,' three miles below Montreal. It is important only as being the present terminus of the St. Lawrence and Atlantic Railroad. : • : WILLIAM HENRY, or Sorel, is situated at the junction of the Richelieu, the outlet of Lake Champlain with the St. Lawrence. It is forty-five miles below Montreal, and is the first stopping-place for steamers on their way to Quebec. The town is laid out in the form of a quadrangle, and co'itains a number of good buildings, the principal of which FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 51 Ltlet of miles I their rangle, which are the Roman Catholic and the English churches. The population is about 3000. . LAKE ST. PETER'S ,' is an expansion of the St. Lawrence, beginning about five miles below Sorel, anu extending in length twenty-five miles ; its greatest K o ••J H o K CO H W H W 9) breadth is nine miles. It is quite shallow, except in a narrow chan- nel, which is now navigable for vessels of six hundred tous, and is in course of being improved, so as to admit vessels of one thousand 1 1 n 1 it T 52 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE li tons ascending to Montreal. There are several islands at its west- ern extremity. Port St. Francis is a small village, situated on the south shore of Lake St. Peter's, eighty-two miles below Montreal. It is a place of but little importance. ,:. v;-- THREE RIVERS is situated at the confluence of the rivers St. Maurice and St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and the same distance above Quebec. It is one of the oldest settled towns ia Canada, having been founded in 1618. It is well laid out, and contains many good buildings, ROMAN CATHOLIC P.VRI8H CHURCH. KUN8. among which are the court house, the jail, the Roman Catholic churuh, the Ursuline convent, and the English and Wesleyan churches. The population of Three Rivers is about 5500. 'I \T~:-' 'ii BATISCAN is situated on the north shore of the river, one hundred and seven- teen miles below Montreal. It is the last place at which the steam- ers stop before reaching Quebec. It is a place of little importance. In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, the country upon its banks presents a sameness in its general scenery, until we approach the vicinity of Quebec. The villages and hamlets ai-e decidedly French in character, and are generally mado up of small rBOM NUG.UIA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 5S buildings, the better class of which are painted white or whitewashed, with red roofs. Prominent in the distance appear the tile-covered CANADIAN HADITANS. ■pires of the Catholic churches, which are all constructed in that unique style of architecture so peculiar to that church. ■■Jif GAKACIAN FASMUOUSE. The rails of timber afford a highly interesting feature on the :>■'"-" -'i/ CANADIAN PRIEST. CAN^^DIAN PEASANT. river as the traveller pai 3es along. On each a shed is built for tho ' 6* MM** ■■'-' J- II : J ', ' !!i*i ii:'! 54 HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE *-f ■■^"-■i *«'«WMI«Hinfi 4v' i i 'i m ii i i nHii ii^ I 60 .. HUNTER'S PANORAMIC GUIDE % Hill SI tl ii ';i!: Town, and is occupied chiefly by retail stores ; St. Louis Street is a handsome and well built street, extending from the Place d'Armes to the St. Louis Gate, and is occupied principally by lawyers' offices and private dwellings ; D^AtUueil Street fac43s the Esplanade and the ground where the artillery are drilled, and is an elegant street, mostly of private dwellings ; Grand Adlee, or aSIJ. Louis Road, outside St. Louis Gate, and leading to the Plains of Abraham, is a pleasant and beautiful street, on which are many elegant villa residences ; St. JohrHs Street, without, is also a fine street, occupied by shops and private dwellings. The principal street in the Lower Town is St. Peter's, on which, and on the wharves and small streets which branch from it, most of the banks, insurance companies, and merchant's offices ai*e situated. • There are also several fine streets in the St. John's and St. Roch's suburbs. The appearance of these quarters of the city has been much improved since the great fires of 1845 ; the buildings that were then destroyed having been replaced by others of a very superior description. Durham Terrace, in the Upper Town, is a platform commanding a splendid view of the river and the Lower Town. It occupies the site of the old castle of St. Louis, which was burnt in 1834, and was erected by the nobleman whose name it bears. llie Public Garden fronts on Des Currieres street. Upper Town, and contains an elegant monument, which was erected to the memory of Wolf and Montcalm, in 1827. The height of this monument is G5 feet ; its design is chaste and beautiful, and no stranger should leave Quebec without visiting it. The Place d'Armes is an open piece of ground, around which the old chateau of St. Louis, the government offices, the English cathe- dral, and the court house are situated. r ,^ The Mplmiade is a beautiful piece of ground, situated between D'Autueil street and the ramparts. It is used as a drill ground by the Royal Artillery. The Citadel, on Cape Diamond, is one of the most interesting ob- jects to visitors ; and those who are desirous of seeing U should make application to the town mayor, at the main guard-house, from whom tickets of admission can always be obtained by persons of respecta- FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 57 bility. The area embraced within the fortifications of the citadel is more than forty acres. ., , , . The line of fortifications, enclosing the citadel and the tipper Town, is nearly three miles in length, and the guns with which they are mounted are mostly thirty -two and forty-eight pounders. There are five gates to the city, three of which, Prescott, Palace, and Hope gates, communicate with the Lower Town, and two of which, St. Louis' and St. John's gates, communicate with the suburbs of the same name. About three quarters of a mie from the city are four Martello Towers, fronting the Plains of Abraham, and intended to impede the advance of an enemy from that direction. CHURCHES. : . ' The Roman Catholic Cathedral, which fronts upon the Upper Town market-place, is a large and commodious building, but with no great pretensions to architecture. The interior is handsomely fitted up, and has several fine paintings by the old masters, which are well worthy of an inspection. The church will seat 4000 persons. It has a good organ. St. Patrick's Church, on St. Helen street. Upper Town, is a neat and comfortable building, and is capable of seating about 3000 per- sons. ♦SI?. Roch's Church, on St. Joseph and Church streets, in the St. Roch's suburbs, is a large and coiiunodious 1> uiding, and will seat over 4000 persons. There r several good paintings in this church. The Church of Notre Dame -fes Victoir^s, on Notre Dann street, is one of the oldest buildings in the citv It has no pretensions to architectural beauty, but it is comforLabl fitted up and will seat over 2000 persons. ""■» ' • ' PROTESTANT CHURCHES. * The English Cathedral is situated between Garden street, St. Ann street, and the Place d'Armes, Upper Town, and i handsome edifice, 135 by 75 feet, and will seat between 30•'* -^ ■ "^ - • There are also several other excellent houses in the city. The situation of Quebec, and the scenery all around it, are, at every turn, most beautiful and picturesque. The mountains are tolerably high, and present a fine appearance in the distance. There is a very noble view from the citadel, which, as has been before remarked, is the strongest post in America; and, indeed, wext to Gibraltar, Quebec is the strongest fortified place in the world. The view from the citadel is connected with associations of the most in- teresting character. Here may be seen the Plains of Abraham, where, after his bold ascent of the almost impassable heights from the river, Wolfe appeared in arms at morning dawn, and where Mont- calm, with equal courage and gallantry, came out to meet him, though not compelled to do so, and where both heroes fell in the sanguinary struggle of that day, — each a bitter loss to his country, each a living name in the annals of their military glory, and both a brilliant evi- dence of French and British valor. Tlie memorial of mutual valor here erected is at least an instance of generosity in rivals, which it is pleasant to contemplate. If anything could detract from the hor- rors ot war, it would be instances like this. The city of Quebec is one which it is impossible to approach without pleasure, and to leave without regret. Every locality con- nected with the place is fraught with interest to the traveller. As the limits of this work permit only general description, visitors will do well to avail themselves of the small city guides, which they can find at the principal hotels. THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCL In taking our departure from Quebec, and on our way down the river, we pass this celebrated cascade. These falls, which are situ- ated in a beautiful nook of the river, are higher than those of Niag- ara, being more than two hundred and fifty feet ; but they are very narrow, being only some fifty feet wide. This place is a very cele- FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO QUEBEC. 61 f en O Q O W n ». ■■■■■;■' ti ■■'«' •uuiiaa.-■•■ '' '^*' ^■■>::~-}\ iV.;. ,, ■i'f r. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i.O l.i 1.25 m la 2.5 ':: ""^ ||[|| 2j °° 2.0 1.4 18 1.6 ^^ V. CPr» sao rcer. »r/e»rM ABOve rue se^ iiA i-etr. AiteA *.tto souAitr milcs- N *^^^iVus>Tr..ToV.*>°'' /^MP CMMAOA J2> >^ \AKtiT FKANOItt. -J h lAMmtrr/t. ^-'i^l X r X tCOTHIM, \