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TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 LETTERS TO THE "CITY PRESS/' 
 
 BY 
 
 JAMES PERKINS, C.C. 
 
 LONDON : 
 W. H. AND L. COLLINGRIDGE, CITY PRESS. 
 
 1891. 
 
^ ., r... ,,. ., 
 
 V, . 
 
 ",« ! -* 
 
 LONDOK : 
 
 PKIMTKD BT W. H. AND L. COLLINGRIDOE, 
 
 ALDEKSGATE STREET, E.C. 
 
•n 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 QINCE my return to England, I have been requested by 
 numerous friends to publish the letters contributed 
 to 'he City Press during my tour round the world, in a 
 pamphlet form. I am rejoiced to find that the time I 
 devoted to writing them was not misapplied. It was & 
 source of great pleasure to myself, as it seemed like sitting 
 down and holdinj^ converse with friends whom I lov9 and 
 esteem, but who were yet far off; giving them an account 
 of my wanderings in a plain, homely style, and I am 
 gratified to find that my efforts have been appreciated. 
 
 JAMES PERKINS. 
 
 il 
 
 90, Lower Thames Street, 
 October, 1891. 
 
:l 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Letteb I. 
 
 ft 
 
 n. 
 
 »» 
 
 III. 
 
 i* 
 
 IV. 
 
 f* 
 
 V. 
 
 
 VI. 
 
 
 VII. 
 
 
 VIII. 
 
 
 IX. 
 
 
 X. 
 
 
 XI. 
 
 
 XII. 
 
 
 XIII. 
 
 
 XIV. 
 
 
 XV. 
 
 
 XVI. 
 
 Addenda 
 
 Port Angeles 
 
 PAOK 
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 40 
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 62 
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 73 
 
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 ■;.f0J0 :: 
 
 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE, 
 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 B.M.S. Empess of Indian 
 
 February 2%thj 1891, lied Sea. 
 
 The water of the Red Sea is a dark blue. The day is dull, 
 temperature 80 deg. Fahr., and we are going thirteen knots. 
 We muster nearly 170 passengers, of whom about forty are 
 ladies. The sea is smooth, and only a slight roll, which causes 
 no inconvenience, is the result. We have a numerous company 
 of Americans, Canadians, English, and a very few Germans. 
 We have a splendid ship of 5,700 tons gross, well-officered, 
 destined hereafter to carry the mails between China, Japan, 
 and Vancouver, thence by the Canadian Pacific Railway to the 
 Atlantic border, and thence to Europe. As the railway is 
 about 5,000 miles long, a considerable saving of time will be 
 efiiected. 
 
 It was by the advice of my medical attendant, who told me a 
 long sea voyage in warm latitudes would restore my health, 
 and probably add ten years to my life, that I took this trip. 
 The advertisements called it *' a trip round the world," the course 
 being from Liverpool to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, Port 
 Said, Suez Canal (with a trip to Cairo for those who cared to 
 visit the Pyramids), Colombo, Penang, Singapore, Hong Kong, 
 Woo Sung, Japan (three ports), Vancouver, across the railway 
 and back to Liverpool by any line of steamers one pleases. 
 
 We sailed from Liverpool on February 8th, and had a 
 wonderful passage right to Gibraltar, the sea across the 
 
 B 
 
 i! 
 
s 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 dreaded Bay of Biscay being as smooth as a mill-pond. We 
 stayed about eight hours in Gibraltar, just long enough to 
 inspect the fortifications, with about 700 guns in position, from 
 lOO'ton guns down to 64-pounders ; to visit the South Town and 
 Europa point, the English part, the Almeida Gardens, where 
 the troops parade and the bands play, and the more picturesque 
 old town occupied chiefly by Moors and Spaniards. It was our 
 first glimpse of Oriental life. We left in the evening for 
 Marseilles, getting into a galo and cross sea on the Saturday — a 
 gale which convinced us that the ship was not free from those 
 ridiculous antics which vessels indulge in under such circum- 
 stances. The table that day was nearly deserted, and groans and 
 lamentations were heard in the state rooms. The next morning, 
 Sunday, the 15th inst., found us moored in the harbour of 
 Marseilles, where we stayed the whole of Monday, going ashore 
 each day. It is a verj' thriving port, and having visited it 
 several times before I was able to judge of the great advance 
 it has made from a commercial point of view. Drives round the 
 town, to the Prado Chateau d'lf, fortifications, &c., fairly took 
 up our time the two days, sailing again at six p.m. for 
 
 Naples. Th . . xt day was fine, and the weather continued so 
 until we reached Naples, on Wednesday, at eight a.m. Most of 
 the passengers landed, some to ascend Vesuvius, others to visit 
 Pompeii and Herculaneum ; yet others preferred the quaint 
 old lanes and streets of the old town and the Museum. I spent 
 a considerable time in the room where the Pompeiian relics are 
 kept, and, under the guidance of the curator, had a close inspec- 
 tion of the principal objects. I was struck with a case of passes 
 for a theatre, and felt how true it is that there is nothing new 
 under the sun, for the free passes were represented by skeleton 
 heads carved in bone — and our free visitors to theatres, I need 
 not remind your readers, are known as " deadheads." I have 
 been several times in Naples, but have never seen a flame 
 issuing from Vesuvius — only a column of smoke by day and 
 nothing by night ; and so it was this time. In the evening we 
 sailed for Port Said, and early next morning entered the Sferaits 
 of Messina. Here the sea was smooth, and we had a good 
 view of Messina. Towards noon we cleared the island of Sicily 
 and came into another gale which lasted the remainder of that 
 day and until the next night. How we rolled and pitched ! It 
 was very cold. Again the tables were deserted and the stewards 
 had a pretty good time of it in the various cabins. 
 On Sunday last we entered Port Said at eight a.m., and left 
 
 
LSTTKR I. 
 
 bj Messrs. Oook's excursion steamer for Ismailia, arriving there 
 at three p.m. Dined — Oh, what a misnomer ! I had the worst 
 meal I ever sat down to, and the charge was 5s. 6d., including a 
 small bottle of Bass. At five p.m, we left by rail for Oairo, 
 arriving there in a little under five hours. A fairly good supper 
 at the Hotel Orient made matters right for the night. 
 
 The next morning breakfast was served at seven, and at eight 
 we were to leave for the Pyramids. What a curious scene the 
 square in front of the hotel presented, filled as it was with 
 vehicles, the drivers shouting to bo hired as only the Cairo 
 drivers can ! At last we settled down, and then commenced a 
 race for the Pyramids. It took nearly an hour to reach them. 
 I was not overcome or disappointed, for they presented the 
 features so many travellers have described, including the great 
 solemn Sphinx, which is getting somewhat dilapidated, pro- 
 bably from visitors wishing to possess a relic. Probably there 
 was never a day when so many visitors were there together, 
 for nearly all our passengers went, and the scene was most 
 interesting. The fine, athletic Arabs, in their white flowing 
 garments, assisting those who climbed to the top of the Pyra- 
 mids, or visited the Sphinx or the Temple ; the camels and don- 
 keys,with their curiously-attired costumes, produced a picture 
 that will long remain in my memory. We returned as we had 
 gone, but when we reached the Nile Bridge it was open for ship 
 trafiic— kept open from a quarter to twelve till a quarter to two 
 each day. Oh, what a strange medley of people, vehicles, 
 camels, donkeys, had accumulated ! And I could not help think- 
 ing of our new Tower Bridge, and what will be the result, when 
 it is finished, of its being kept open for two hours before until 
 two hours after high water daily, or one third of the twenty- 
 four hours. At last the bridge was closed for water traffic, and 
 land traffic was resumed. The opposing crowds met, and it 
 requiied great skill to regulate the vast number of vehicles 
 going each way ; but it was a sight I would not have missed 
 for anything. 
 
 In the afternoon rie strolled about the bn'^aars and business 
 streets ; wondered at the variety of the shops and of the goods 
 offered for sale ; contemplated with interest the general pic- 
 turesque nature of this Oriental scene, and the various nation- 
 alities represented ; and considered how different it all was to 
 what we see when in the neighbourhood of our one square mile, 
 and the immense difference to European customs. The next 
 morning a visit to the Citadel, whence a splendid bird's-eye view 
 
 B 2 
 
 fl 
 
4 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 of Cairo is obtained ; a visit to the Mosque of Meheraet Ali 
 built ontiroly of alabaster; the site of the massacre of the 
 ^ranielukos in 1840, and one last drive through the bazaars 
 ended our too short stay in Caii'o. At two p.m. we were in the 
 train for Suez, and by half-past teu safe on board our ship once 
 more. Since then we have been and are now traversing the 
 Red Sea. 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 Hoifo Kong, April 6<A, 1891. 
 
 In a previous letter, written after leaving Cairo, I omitted to 
 refer to the very primitive method of repairing and watering 
 the roads. Men are stationed at intervals for that purpose, and 
 if the road wants mending they go to the nearest field or hedge, 
 fill a basket with gravel, fill np the indentation, and then tread 
 it level with their feet ; and the watering is done by filling a 
 sheepskin with water slung over the shoulder, and, with a 
 regular movement of the hand the water is thrown on the road. 
 Water is conveyed to houses, where it is not laid on, in a like 
 manner. One noticeable feature in Cairo is the great number of 
 camels employed to bring in fodder and garden produce for the 
 use of the city. 
 
 The heat in the Red Sea was not nearly so great as I was led 
 to expect, but after passing Aden it increased daily until we 
 reached Colombo, where the heat was excessive, and many pas- 
 sengers passed the night on deck, the cabins being too oppres- 
 sive to enable one to enjoy sleep. The whole surroundings of 
 this place were as different to those of Cairo as possible. The 
 lower class of people here go almost naked. They find em- 
 plojnnent in carrying goods, slung on bamboo canes, or in 
 drawing small carriages on two wheels, known as janrickshas, 
 and holding one person, at a sharp trot for miles, the perspira- 
 tion streaming down their backs with the exertion. The tropi- 
 cal vegetation is very grand, e&pecially in the gardens of houses 
 kept by Europeans. A Cingalese gentleman, to whom I was 
 introduced, drove me to a Buddhist temple, the oldest in th 3 
 
LETTBR n. 
 
 island — so he told me. There are some bones of Biiddha 
 bulled in a solid mass of masonry, without means of entrance, 
 in the form of a dome, with a radius of about 100 foet and in 
 height about 80 feet, built over two thousand years ago, and 
 as yet never disturbed. My friend tried to explain the faith to 
 me and promised to send me a catechism when it is reprinted, as 
 he thinks J should make a good convert. 
 
 A trip to Kandy well repaid the nine hours ride in a hot 
 railway compartment to get there and back ; but the hills were 
 so covered with verdure right to the top that it looked (^uite 
 refreshing. Kandy is built on an eminence, and the view all 
 round is lovely in the extreme ; and, in the botanical gardens, 
 orchids that would excite the envy ev^n of Mr. J. Chamberlain 
 flourish. 
 
 One noticeable feature of Colombo is the large number of 
 dealers in so-called precious stones. They board the steamers 
 on their arrival, follow the passengers to the hotel, haunt you 
 everywhere, pestering you to buy a bargain. Rubies, sapphires, 
 pearls, etc., are offered first — say for three rings — ten pounds, 
 then it is, "What will you give?" A passenger makes a 
 sportive offer, and says, " Thirty shillings the lot " ; and, when 
 the offer is not increased, it generally happens that the merchant 
 says that he must do some trade, if only for luck — so he 
 takes it. 
 
 Our next place of call was Penang, where we had but eight 
 hours in which to scamper over the place, visit the waterfall 
 and park, inspect a few temples, drive roimd the principal 
 streets, and get tiffin. It is very similar to Colombo, with the 
 exception that the population consists of Malays and Chinese. 
 The same means of locomotion is common to both — janrickshas 
 and garrys — a sort of dogcart for four persons, drawn by either 
 a pony or small ox. The heat was intense here, and all along the 
 Straits of Malacca, until we reached Singapore, where it culmi- 
 nated. It is a large place, with a spacious and splendid harbour, 
 doing an extensive trade, and having a well-kept promenade 
 along the banks, where the rank and fashion take their evening 
 drive, or "eat the air," as the Malays graphically express it. 
 I dined in the evening with a Masonic friend whom I had 
 known in England, and who is settled here as an avocat. A 
 drive of three miles brought me to a charming bungalow, not a 
 pane of glass in it, only curtains and Venetian jalousies to keep 
 out heat and intruders. Charming grounds surrounded the 
 house, and in a clump of trees a fanuly of wild monkeys had for 
 
 n 
 
 
 I 
 
A TOXTR B0X7ND THE GLOBE. 
 
 many years made a home, which my friend said he would not 
 disturb for anything. The monkeys were no nuisance to him 
 as they never came near the house. By the way, the guide 
 books say that monkeys are to be seen wild all over the place, 
 their antics being very amusing. All I can say is, that only in a 
 shop and for sale did I see a single monkey — in fact they are 
 conspicuous by their absence. 
 
 From Singapore our course was to this place, a direct line 
 northward, and it was very surprising how soon we felt the 
 influence of a north-east wind. Three days out folks began to 
 say how chilly it was, and that they must put on warmer flannels 
 and bring out overcoats, and when we reached Hong Kong on 
 the filth day it was really cold. The entrance to Hong Kong 
 abounds in fine scenery and a large number of islands. It 
 reminded me very much of the scenery between Stomoway to 
 Oban, in Scotland, and the town itself is something like Oban, 
 having a shore line of buildings and villas built, terrace after 
 terrace, up the hill-side. The Peak is about 2,000 feet high, 
 and a rope railway has been constructed for three parts of the 
 distance. Locomotion is carried on by janrickshas, and chairs 
 with two bearers, the latter alone being able to ascend the hiU. 
 You are carried along at a great pace, and with a regular 
 swing, and it is not at all unpleasant. The merchants keep 
 their own private chairs and coolies in private liveries. In that 
 case they have four bearers to a chair, but the chairs that stand 
 about for hire have only two bearers. I was struck with 
 the absence of horses ; I have not seen more than ten since I 
 have been here, and I am told that seventy is the outside 
 number in the island. Our steamer was moored to a wharf at 
 Kow Loon, on the mainland of China, opposite Hong Kong, 
 but under the control of thv3 British. We were landing cargo 
 for six days, and then had to go into dry dock, the passage to 
 and fro to Hong Kong being by steam launch. 
 
 I took the opportunity while our vessel was in dry dock to 
 visit Canton, about ninety miles from here. It is one of the 
 oldest cities in China, very quaint, and to me imique. The 
 streets are not more than seven feet wide, many less than that, 
 built as closely as possible, with one storey over the shop. The 
 streets are crowded, and it is surprising how the chair-bearers 
 keep clear of the mob, for it is only in chairs that Europeans 
 can travel about. Even your Chinese guide insists upon having 
 his chair. We visited pagodas, temples, markets, the execution 
 ground — not, as one would suppose, a reserved space kept for 
 
 . 
 
 / 
 
LETTER TLiViCil 
 
 -I 
 
 the purpose, but in the middle of a public pottery yard kept by 
 the executioner, through which the public pass all day long. 
 There was a puddle of blood from a recent execution that had 
 not dried up. The great Examination Hall, with its 12,000 
 cells or chambers for the use of students while undergoing 
 annual examination, was curious ; so was the City of the Dead, 
 a large enclosed space, with about 2,000 rooms for the reception 
 of the dead in coffins until such time as the survivors can find 
 a suitable, that is a lucky spot for burial. The Chinese are 
 very particular in this respect, and the captain of the steamer 
 in which I went to Canton told me that one man had brought 
 him over twenty samples of earth for his opinion as to which 
 would be the most lucky to bury his poor father in. In one of 
 the chambers a lady was mourning over her dead child, and 
 outside were eight hired musicians singing and playing a service 
 for the dead. Such a dreadful monotonous noise I never heard 
 before. Within a circle with a diameter of ten miles, we were 
 told by the American Consul, was a population of three and a 
 half millions ; the Chinese can stow themselves closer than any 
 other people, and don't object to it ; of these, the half million 
 live from birth to death in sampans, or boats with an awning 
 to carry passengers ; there are over 50,000 registered in Canton, 
 and the average number of men, women, and children in each 
 may safely be taken as ten. The women do the rowing and 
 steering and look after the children ; the men idle their time 
 away. We passed the once famous city of Whampoa, where our 
 sailing ships at one time used to be moored in large numbers to 
 load tea ; that trade in a great measure has now ceased, and 
 has been transferred to Hankow, Amoy, and other northern 
 cities. Now, whatever tea is s^ \ ped at Canton is sent down by 
 local steamer to Hong Kong, and there transhipped. 
 
 To show how small the world is, the captain of the steamer I 
 trevelled by to Canton used to sail, twenty years ago, from the 
 Thames ; and, when he heard my name, asked if I had barges 
 on the Thames, and said he had loaded or unloaded them many 
 a time. I said I was the same person ; and then there was a 
 string of inquiries as to people we both knew, how they were 
 getting on, or what had become of them. His name is 
 Geoghan, and he was formerly in the Irish trade. 
 
 In Hong Kong all labour is human labour — no horse-power 
 being used. Every house bmlt in the island, whether on the 
 street level or up the mountain side, has the materials carried to 
 it by m^n and women, slung over the shoulder from a bamboo. 
 
 t 
 
 \i 
 
8 
 
 A TOUR ROUIfD THE GLOBE. 
 
 Heavy etones, bricks, sand, water for building, are thus oon- 
 veyed ; and so, too, is the fumiture. The Queen's Boad, the 
 principal thoroughfare, is being repaired, and a large stone 
 roller is used to level it; it is puUed by twenty-four men. 
 Heavy bales and cases are in like manner taken from the vessels 
 to the warehouses ; if two men cannot lift the loads, they try 
 four, six, and even eight. I'here is not a cart in the place, and 
 only a very few trollies. 
 
 During our stay in Hong Kong, the Eussian Fleet, with the 
 Czarewitch on board, arrived in the harbour, and moored there 
 for coaling purposes. Such a continuoud firing of salutes from 
 morning to night made a frightful din, which was re-echoed 
 from the mountain's side. The young Prince landed at the 
 central pier, and was received by the Governor in great state. 
 There was a huge crowd, both of Europeans and Chinese, to see 
 him; and at night the city was illuminated, of course with 
 Chinese lamps. The visit lasted three days, when the Prince 
 left to visit Canton, where, we heard, he had a good reception 
 by the Viceroy. I was made a member of the Hong Kong Club 
 during my stay there, and found it very pleasant to meet 
 with the principal merchants of the city. These courtesies, 
 extended to a passing visitor, are most a^T.'eeable. 
 
 "We have had a marvellous trip all the waj^ from Suez to here, 
 not a single rough day ; it is like river steaming. "We are now 
 just about to start for Shanghai, and whether we shall find it 
 rougher or not remains to be seen. 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Pacific Ocean, April 21st. 
 
 "When I was at Hong Kong I had the opportunity of witnessing 
 a Chinese funeral, that of a rich old gentleman who had died of 
 old age. The body was to be buried in Chinese soil, and was to 
 be taken to Canton for interment. It is one of their supersti- 
 tions that it is unlucky to carry the body out by the door, 80 a 
 staging of bamboo cane was erected to the third floor, where he 
 
mmssm^si 
 
 ■ip 
 
 LETTER m. 
 
 ^•J9 
 
 \ i 
 
 ► > 
 
 died, with a sloping staging to the street. The coffin was on 
 the top stage, and I saw the old gentleman carried ont in a 
 sheet, placed in the coffin, together with sundry things for him 
 to eat, and the necessary implements for that purpose. The 
 coffin was then fastened down, and covered with a gaudy* 
 coloured paU ready to be slid down into the street. In the 
 meantime the band, consisting of gongs, cymbals, pipes, and a 
 few voices, gathered at the foot and made a most discordant 
 noise. There were also several tinsel temples carried on a bier 
 by four men ; several other attendants bore food, including two 
 roast pigs nicely browned. All these men paraded the neigh- 
 bouring streets while the coffin was being prepared. At last it 
 was slid down by twelve men, and when it reached the street 
 was placed at the head of the procession. Following the coffin 
 twelve hired mourners, dressed in white cloaks and hoods, came 
 down, making the most hideous lamentationo. The procession 
 then marched all through the Chinese town. The body was 
 taken to the steamer for Canton, but the other part (>i the pro- 
 cession continued to parade the streets for hours after. Finally, 
 I was informed, the two roast pigs would be divided amongst 
 them, and so the ceremony woidd end. 
 
 Upon leaving Hong Kong we proceeded to Woosung, sixteen 
 miles from Shanghai, whither we were taken in a steam launch. 
 So far as the European part of the city is concerned, it is well 
 laid out with wide streets, fine hotels, banks, clubs, private houses, 
 and good shops, and a splendid promenade facing the river. 
 The river is wide, and affords good moorings for the largest 
 steamers. It seems to be a flourishing place. It is under the 
 control of English and French police, the European portion 
 being allotted to the two nations ; but the real old Chinese city 
 is a counterpart of Canton — narrow, dirty streets, stinking and 
 repulsive. 
 
 We left in the evening for Japan, making straight for 
 Nagasaki, which we reached on Sunday, April 12th, finding it 
 en fete. It was a festival for girls, and they were all dressed in 
 their gayest clothing, with artificial flowers of the brightest hues 
 in their black hair, and carrying the well-known Japanese 
 umbrella. This town is beautifully situated in a land-locked 
 harbour of great extent, and surrounded by hills with verdure 
 to the very tops. 
 
 Sailing again in the evening, we had to pass through the 
 Inland Sea, celebrated for the beauty of its scenery, but which, 
 alas WBis hidden from our view by a dense fog. However, we 
 
 
10 
 
 A T0T7B B0T7in> THE GLOBE. 
 
 reached Kobe in safety the next morning. This is in an open 
 roadstead, and the place is destined to be the chief port in 
 Japan. The European part is very fine, and the native town is 
 far superior to those of China, the streets being wider, better 
 cared for, and the shops giving a better display. There is a 
 celebrated waterfall, to which we all went in the everlasting 
 nckshas, to which we are now well accustomed. You can hire 
 one for the whole day for one dollar, and the man keeps up a 
 brisk trot as you go from place to place. Of course he gets a 
 rest whilst you are inspecting the shops and buying your curios, 
 or getting lunch at the hotels ; stiU, it must be very hard work. 
 Sailing again in the evening, we made for Yokohama, and 
 all the next day were in a fog, with the horn going at short 
 intervals. Still, we reached the town at the appointed time, 
 the sixteenth morning, and stopped until the next day, leaving 
 at four p.m. Most of our passengers made straight for Tokio, 
 the capital of Japan, and the official residence of the Mikado. 
 It is a large city, but certainly not beautiful. Most of the 
 houses are built of wood, and the streets are wide and admit of 
 the use of horses, but the principal mode of conveyance is the 
 'ricksha. There is a fine park, and the gardens in it are well 
 laid out. Several temples of great antiquity can be seen, but 
 to me they were uninteresting, being devoid of architectural 
 beauty. It is about eighteen miles from Yokohama, and the 
 train takes one hour to do the journey. The Japanese have 
 copied us in every respect, issuing return tickets, printed both 
 in Japanese and English, that are nipped by the inspectors ; 
 the carriages are similar to ours, and all the arrangement of 
 barriers, platforms, booking offices, retiring rooms for ladies 
 and gentlemen, are the same. Here the Japanese are far ahead 
 of the Chinese. The former encourage railways, of which there 
 are several connecting the various cities, whilst in China there 
 is not a single line, a short one that was laid down a few years 
 ago between Shanghai and Woosung having been destroyed by 
 the superstition of the people, who hate the barbarians, as they 
 call us, and all their works. The wonder is that the Chinese 
 Government has invested in gun-boats and war steamers of 
 European construction, driven by steam, for the protection of 
 their coasts. Contrasting the two nations, I must give the 
 preference to the Japanese. They are polite to a degree to 
 Europeans, and very clean, the baths being well patronized. 
 Whether sea, fresh, or natural springs, aU bathe in the same 
 tank — ^men, women, and children. If a European pays for 
 
 r 
 
 I 
 
^?^ ^^^^^^^^ 
 
 ii'. 
 
 LBTTIB in. 
 
 11 
 
 # 
 
 i 
 
 entrance he is shown to the same tank, and, like the natives, 
 can leave his clothes on the seat aud pop in. If, however, he 
 objects, and asks for a private bath, he is shown into a small 
 room, in which is a large tub — a woman fills it, arranges the 
 heat to your liking, and waits to wash you. If you say you do 
 not require her services, she is at a loss to know the reason 
 why, and stops in the room to render assistance in case it may 
 be required all the while you are taking your bath, and this 
 without the slightest feeling of impropriety or lack of modesty. 
 ** Me washee your back" said the woman to me when I tried 
 the experiment, and many other passengers gave me a similar 
 account. In fact, they have no idea of modesty in our sense of 
 it, and the two sexes meet at the baths in a state of nudity 
 without the least hesitation. 
 
 A visit to Osaki and Kioto was interesting, as we were ad- 
 mitted to the various manufactories and saw the patient labours 
 of the workers. One man was engaged upon a small Satsuma 
 vase, inlaying the pottery with silver and gold wire ; he was 
 making a circle, and six times he was dissatisfied with the 
 result ; the seventh time he succeeded in doing the work to his 
 satisfaction. It frequently takes months to complete a small 
 article, and one piece that we saw had occupied two years of 
 one man's labour, the result being a work ex art valued at one 
 hundred pounds. In some workshops we saw the women em- 
 broidering silk with gold and silver thread, to be used for 
 screens or to make up as dresses. Machinery has not as yet 
 entered into the manufacture of these goods — all are produced 
 by hand. The Japanese are copying European fashions in 
 dress, in politics, in newspapers, in most things. There were 
 Houses of Parliament in Tokio a few months ago, but they were 
 destroyed by fire, either from accident or design, the latter sus- 
 pected by the officials; they are, however, being replaced 
 by buildmgs of stone instead of wood. As we visited the 
 various places, both in China and Japan, we could not help 
 thinking what ravages a large fire would make, as the natives' 
 shops and houses are nearly all of wood. 
 
 Speaking of the Japanese copying European customs, there is 
 one custom that ought at once to be discarded, that of selling 
 their daughters into houses of an improper character. I was 
 assured that the creditors of a father or widowed mother can 
 compel them to sell their daughters, when arrived at a certain 
 age, to the keepers of such houses in order to pay their debts. 
 As the girl has no choice in the matter she submits, and it is 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 W 
 
i2 
 
 A TOUB BOUm) THE GLOBE. 
 
 not deemed any degradation to have lived thus for a period, 
 and in fact they are generally married from such houses. A 
 man pays the debt remaining on her head, marries her, and she 
 is at once rehabilitated into society without a slur upon her 
 character. Many men of high position have chosen their wives 
 from such places. The Japanese women are not vicious by 
 natui'G, on the contrary, they are most affectionate, but they are 
 powerless to break down this dreadful custom of the country. 
 Sooner or later it must be given up if the Japanese wish to 
 rank with European nations. 
 
 Vancouver, ^^ri^ 29/^. 
 
 We reached our destination, so far as the Empress of India is 
 concerned, yesterday, at 4 p.m., after twelve days' passage from 
 Yokohama. The first three days were rough, with strong winds ; 
 then we had f oui* days when the ship only rolled ; after that we 
 fell in with a cyclone, and our ship showed us what she could do 
 in pitching and tossing, to the discomfort of many of our pas- 
 sengers who were confined to their berths. There is no necessity 
 to describe the difficulty of eating and drinking, washing and 
 dressing, when the ship roUs to twenty degrees each side and 
 pitches at the same time. During the worst of it, fiddles were 
 put on the tables at meal times to prevent the plates, dishes, etc., 
 rolling off, but despite that the food, and especially the drinks, 
 were capsized. In all, we have travelled 16,396 nautical miles 
 in one steamer, with very little discomfort indeed from rough 
 weather. All the way from Suez to Yokohama the sea was 
 smooth, and it was while crossing the Pacific (?) Ocean that we 
 suffered most. The Empress of India is certainly a magnificent 
 ship, with a fine promenade deck, twelve feet wide, under the 
 hurricane deck, and much credit is due to Captain Marshall and 
 his officers in their endeavour to promote the happiness and 
 enjoyment of us all. It is her first trip, and henceforth she will 
 trade between Vancouver, Japan and China, and is not likely 
 to take another voyage round the world. 
 
mm 
 
 ■^ 
 
 kiJi^AJ 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 I) 
 
 The Baldwin Hotel, San Francisco, Oal., 
 
 May 7th, 1891. 
 
 The town of Vancouver is a place of marvellous growth. Seven 
 years ago it was all forest land, and without a single habitation ; 
 but no sooner had the Canadian Pacific Bailroad Company (the 
 word " railway " is unknown in America) settled upon that spot 
 as their terminus on the Pacific, than land surveyors, agents, 
 and builders, hurried to the spot, mapped it out in avenues and 
 streets at right angles, ran up frame buildings, and conmienced 
 business. Four years ago, it was completely destroyed by fii'e ; 
 the inhabitants were houseless, and had to be maintained by the 
 contributions of the neighbouring settlements. In three weeks, 
 the builders were again at work, and this time using granite 
 and brick for the principal stores. The town is lighted by 
 electricity ; electric cars run along its streets, and nearly all the 
 stores use this illuminant instead (f gas. Gas, however, is 
 used to supplement the electric light, should the latter fail in 
 working. Coal of an excellent quality is found within fifty 
 miles, and there is a splendid land-locked harbour with deep 
 water alongside the wharves, so that the largest ships can be 
 accommodated. Many fine hotels have sprung up, and the town 
 in the future will doubtless be one of great importance. The 
 very fact that the Canadian Pacific Bailroad Company intend to 
 send their steamers to Japan and China from Vancouver neces- 
 sarily establishes its prosperity. Still there is much to be done 
 in the way of improvement. At present the side walks are of 
 wood only, and the roadways uneven, and, in wet weather, soft 
 and miry. Rome, however, was not built in a day, and the 
 Corporation, by its Improvement Committee, is steadily urging 
 on flie work of putting the roads in order ; and, before another 
 decade, the town will have a very different appearance. 
 
 BaUs, concerts, canoe races, torchlight processions round the 
 harbour, and other festivities, were arranged to welcome the 
 arrival of the Empress of India and her passengers, and a grand 
 banquet was given by the local Board of Trade, to which many 
 of us were invited. Perhaps the speeches were too long, and 
 
 i 
 
14 
 
 A TOUB R0X7ND THE GLOBE. 
 
 possibly too prosy, but the event passed off splendidly, but for 
 one unfortunate incident, viz. : — that when the toast of the 
 health of our gracious Queen was given, the United States 
 Yice-Consul refused to rise, and something like a row appeared 
 to be imminent. However, it cooled down when it was explained 
 that he had never exhibited good manners, and was generally 
 disliked, and so he was let off with only expressions of contempt. 
 
 Paving well explored the neighbourhood, I took steamer 
 for Victoria, in the island of Vancouver, about sixty miles oft'. 
 Being a smaller vessel by far than the Empress of India^ she 
 took a different channel to the one we came by, and, as a 
 consequence, we were afforded glimpses of surpassing beauty 
 for about five hours, the length of the journey. Victoria boasts 
 a greater antiquity than Vancouver, it being now nearly forty 
 years old. Originally it was a trading port of the Hudson Bay 
 Company, where the Indians brought skins for sale, but it 
 possessed so many advantages that many settlers went there and 
 founded what has now grown into a large place. The streets 
 are well laid out ; there are many handsome stores, with plate 
 glass windows that would not disgrace Regent Street ; of course 
 there are electric lights and electric cars. I was introduced to 
 the Mayor, and when he found I was a member of the Corpora- 
 tion of the City of London, nothing was too good for me. Wo 
 •chatted about municipal subjects, he being desirous of 
 obtaining all the information I could give him ; on the other 
 hand, he was quite as ready to instruct me regarding their 
 ways. He has been Mayor three years in succession, and 
 appears to be so popular that he will probably be Mayor for 
 many years to come. Besides the Town Council, there are a 
 Provincial Legislature and a House of Deputies, working 
 together in the best possible harmony. The climate is much 
 the same as that of England — never very cold nor very warm. 
 The scenery all round is very beautiful ; in the far distance are 
 the snow-clad hills of the Olympus range, and a grand view of 
 Mount Baker, eighty miles off, rearing its head just as Mont Blanc 
 does in France. I was driven all round for some four hours to 
 all the finest nooks, bays, inlets, woods, &c., that my friend 
 could think of, and I could only say that, if I had to seek some 
 other home than London, I could not choose a better than 
 Victoria. 
 
 Just to show how small the world is after aU, I may mention 
 that I had a letter from a London friend to a firm in Victoria, 
 HeBfiTfl. Beeton, Turner, & Co. This I presented, and was 
 
 «' 
 
 i 
 
LETTER IT. 
 
 15 
 
 r 
 r 
 1 
 r 
 a, 
 
 ^k 
 
 e 
 n 
 
 i 
 
 warmly welcomed, and taken to Mr. Beaton's private honse to 
 luncheon. During luncheon, a gentleman called to take him 
 for a drive, and I went also. During the drive, I said I was 
 going to San Diego, and he asked me whom I was going to 
 see. I said an old colleague of mine, Mr. Joseph Surr. '' What, 
 do you know him ? Why, when I was in London our families 
 were very intimate, and only last autumn he called here to see 
 me." And Mrs. Beeton added, ** When you see him, ask if he 
 remembers a dog rushing out from the adjoining house and 
 tearing his trousers from instep to knee, and that I sewed it up 
 for him." So here was a fresh bond of union between us, and 
 after the drive I remained to tea and a musical party to follov. . 
 So also in the hotel, a gentleman was introduced to me, and 
 when he heard I was a member of the Corporation, he said, 
 "Then you know Deputy Harvey and the other Common 
 Councilmen for Cripplegate. I was in business there for several 
 years and knew them all " ; and another gentleman, entering 
 into the conversation, told me he knew both my partner and 
 myself, having been in the firm of Smith, Sundius, and Co., ship- 
 brokers, and had come over, hearing there was a " boom " in 
 steam shipping ; but whether he had found it or not he did 
 not say; his occupation, however, at the present time is 
 manager of a newspaper, the Seattle Intelligencer. 
 
 Close by Victoria is the harbour of Esquimault, now the head- 
 quarters, with dry dock, dockyard, etc., of our navy. A gun- 
 boat, the Ni/mphy was in dry dock under repairs. 
 
 I could have lingered here for a much longer time, but I had 
 to say farewell, and take my passage on board the Umatilla 
 for San Francisco, a trip of 750 mUes on the Pacific Ocean. And 
 once again let me say that it is not quite the proper name, for 
 the sea was not pacific, but rough in the extreme. It was 
 pitiable to see how the poor women and children, aye, and men 
 too, suffered for two days, many not taking any food. It 
 appeared that the ship was somewhat given to rolling, and this 
 trip she had only a light cargo, so she had it all her own way, 
 and right merrily did she play at pitch and roll. On the evening 
 of the third day, a thick fog came on, the sea went down, and the 
 remainder of the journey was less troublesome. We reach&d 
 the port during the night, and at six a.m. the doctor and Custom 
 House officials came on board, the former to see that our health 
 was good — for if anyone had shown a sign of infectious disease 
 we should have been put in quarantine — and the second to see 
 that we did not smuggle anything into the United States 
 
16 
 
 A TOUR ROnn) THE GLOBE. 
 
 without paying the frightful duties that now prevail under the 
 MoKinley Act. Fortunately I passed both ordeals, as I was in 
 excellent health, and had with me no goods upon which duty 
 had to be paid. So here I am in what was the El Dorado, so 
 far as gold-finding was concerned, not so many years ago, but 
 was then a lawless, fearful place to live in. It has now become 
 a vast, beautiful city, renowned all the world over; but my 
 impressions concerning it must be left for another letter. 
 
 \ 
 
 in: . 
 
 IJ» 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 The Baldwin Hotel, San Francisco, 
 
 May Ibth, 1891. 
 
 I HAVE been eight days in California, and from what I have 
 seen I do not wonder at its being known as " Golden," whether 
 it applies to cornfields, orchards, vineyards, olives, orange 
 groves, or to the amount of push, and energy, and life, exhibited 
 in all its cities, and especially in this. To think that fifty 
 years ago it was waste and barren land, except such missionary 
 stations as were founded by the Spanish Franciscans to teach 
 the Indians ; that the finding of gold in large quantities caused 
 the country to be inundated by the scum of all nations ; that for 
 years life was held of little account, and that men shot each 
 other for mere whims of temper ; that after a long lapse of time 
 given up to lawlessness and riot, a better state of things 
 opened up ; the tilling of the ground succeeded to the search 
 for gold, and now the wealth of California obtained from the 
 cultivation of land far surpasses that produced by the precious 
 metal. The growth of such cities as San Francisco and 
 Sacramento attest this truth. 
 
 I was favoured with a long interview by the Mayor, Mr. 
 Sanderson, and he was as pleased to learn something of the 
 constitution, manners, and customs of our grand old Corporation 
 as I was to be informed of how matters were conducted here. 
 The city and its suburbs for miles around form one county over 
 which is the worshipful Mayor, who is appointed for two years, 
 
LETTEB v. 
 
 11 
 
 and a body of twelve Buperyisors, who fill the position of 
 Aldermen and Oouncilmen. These meet in a splendid large city 
 hall that has been in course of constmction for many years, 
 and is not yet finished. It has accommodation for all the various 
 officers of the municipality, and also for the law courts, 
 whether police, county, first instance, or superior courts. The 
 Mayor was delighted to see a member of the Corporation of the 
 Oity of London, and showed me marked attention, and placed 
 his services at my disposition. Wherever I go I find that the 
 mere announcement of my connection with the dear old City of 
 London is an " Open Sesame," and one can learn more about a 
 city by having a pleasant chat with its Mayor than in any other 
 way. This city is full of bustle and activity ; tramcars, either 
 horse, steam, electric, or cable — for they have them of each sort 
 — traverse the streets incessantly from early morning to the 
 early hours of the next morning. Large and lofty buildings 
 show off the wide streets to great advantage, the ground floors 
 being devoted to shops or stores, and the upper floors in many 
 cases occupied as hotels, or lodging houses and restaurants 
 From the immense number of these feeding establishments, I 
 should think that nobody takes food at home, but makes use of 
 the facilities offered by them of both variety of food and its 
 cheapness. 
 
 I came to this place for the express purpose of visiting our 
 late colleague, who represented the Ward of Cheap in the 
 Council, Mr. Joseph Surr, who, with his family, is now settled 
 in San Diego, some five hundred miles south of this. When I 
 landed from the steamer which brought me from Victoria, I 
 found letters from him, intimating that he was on his way from 
 San Diego to meet me here, which he did a few hours after- 
 wards. He thought that the six days it would take me to 
 travel to and fro would be so much lost in the way of inter- 
 course, and as my time in these parts was naturally very limited, 
 he very kindly came here, so as to spend all the time I had to 
 spare together. Thus we visited the Golden Gate Park, a large 
 reservation, partly laid out as ornamental gardens, conserva- 
 tories, and all that sort of thing, and the remainder left in a 
 state of nature except for the cutting of good roads, many miles 
 in length, where the cream of society take their airing. Not far 
 off are the Seal Bocks, a cluster of rocks, some fifty yards from 
 the shore, where hundreds of seals disport themselves in the open 
 sea and not in any way endosed. These animals have made 
 these rocks their homes for many years ; they are of a kind 
 
 
 
 I 
 
18 
 
 A TOVB BOXTZn) THE QLOBS. 
 
 whose BkinB are not ased for commerce, and bo they are left 
 alone ; and, besides, they are protected by an order from the 
 authorities, which makes it punishable to kill or molest them. 
 Another favourite opot to visit is the Presidio, or grounds re- 
 served for barracks for the military ; it is on rising ground, 
 from whence a good view of the city and harbour is obtained. 
 "We had a glance in at the Masonic Temple, the Odd Fellows' 
 Hall, the Mechanics' Institute and Library, and the Free Public 
 Library established by the Oorporation. All these places were 
 well built, and seemed to be appreciated, judging from the 
 number of persons using them. Nor is there any dearth of 
 amusements : theatres, concert halls, and variety entertainments, 
 abound in every part of the city, and many large halls are de- 
 voted to fancy fairs, bazaars, and political meetings. To one of 
 the latter I went last night ; it was called by the Democratic 
 party^ and attention was durected to the place of meeting by a 
 huge bonfire at each end of the street, which certainly would 
 not have been permitted by the London Police. The hall was 
 crammed, and a member of Congress, I forget his name, was 
 haranguing the people on the effects of the McKinlay Act upon 
 the working classes, and pointing out the necessity of the party 
 selecting good and true men to represent them in Oongres3, 
 instead of miserable creatures of the McKinlay type. From his 
 description, one would think that the United States was the 
 most down-trodden country in the world, instead of being, as 
 the Americans are so fond of boasting, *^ the freest nation on 
 earth." 
 
 Two events of late have' caused great excitement here: one 
 being the visit of the President, which took place just before I 
 arrived ; but the Mayor told me it waE a grand function. The 
 second was the burial of General Swift, last Sunday, who died 
 whilst United States Minister to the Oourt of Japan, and whose 
 body was brought here by the steamer Bdgic from Yokohama. 
 About 20,000 military, the Mayor and Corporation, the Masonic, 
 Odd Fellows, and various other bodies, took pari; in the pro- 
 cession, which was one of the finest displays I have ever seen, 
 and testified to the regard in which the deceased gentleman 
 was held. By the courtesy of the Mayor, I was admitted to 
 the privileges of the Bohemian Club during my stay in the city. 
 
 In the immediate neighbourhood of San Francisco, many 
 large towns are rising. Just across the Bay — a distance of 
 five miles, traversed by large ferry steamers that can take a 
 train, vehicles, animals, and any number of passengers, some- 
 
 V 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
■a* 
 
 LETTER y. 
 
 19 
 
 thing like those of the Woodside Ferries, at Liveipool — is Oak- 
 land, a town of 30,000 people, with Alameda close by, with 
 10,000, and Berkeley, where there is a large and well-known 
 uniyersity, with something like 8,000 more. All these are con- 
 nected by railways, and steam, electric and horse cars. They 
 are laid out in villa residences, and many of the traders have 
 country houses here, so as to avoid the noise and bustle of the 
 larger city. Further out still is Menlo Park, the residence of 
 Mr. Leland Stanford, who, from a position of almost poverty, 
 has risen to be one of the railroad magnates, and was one of the 
 promoters of the Union Pacific Bailway, by which New York 
 and San Francisco joined hands. He thus became enormously 
 wealthy — how much, I am afraid to say, in case I did not say 
 enough — and has become the owner of Menlo Park, containing 
 18,000 acres. Some few years ago he lost his only son, a 
 promising young lad, and this has induced him to build and 
 endow a university for boys and girls, for higher education than 
 the primary schools afford. It is to be opened next October. 
 I inspected the buildings with great interest ; they are most 
 complete, and the dormitories are better than I have ever seen 
 in any school before. Two students are to occupy one large 
 room, in which are two beds ; a curtain hanging from the 
 ceiling leaves the other half of the room for a nice sitting room. 
 The amount of space allotted to each student is unprecedented. 
 Besides this gift to his fellow-countrymen, Mr. Stanford owns a 
 large stud for the breeding of trotting horses. Over 800 horaes 
 were in the stables, and we were shown the most valuable ; 
 several for which he had refused 50,000 dollars (i.e. £10,000), 
 and many of less value. We saw him drive from the stables to 
 the university buildings, accompanied by the gentleman who is 
 to be the principal master, and they both are constantly super- 
 vising the construction, so that everything may be perfection. 
 
 But the place that is most talked about is the Hotel Del 
 Monte, close to Monterey, which is about one hundred and thirty 
 nules from this city. The hotel is of itself a palace, and the 
 grounds, of surprising extent, contain a profuision of flowers 
 and trees, a lake of great extent, with all the accessories of a 
 sea-side resort, sea bathing (both in the open sea and in baths), 
 bowling saloons, while the temperature is so mUd — in winter 
 scarcely ever below 51 degrees Fahr. — that bathing goes on all 
 the year round. The place is so attractive, that it is nothing 
 unusual to have 1,500 guests at one time ; in fact, it is a small 
 town in itselL Then, there is a magnificent ride of eighteen 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
20 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 miles, right througli the hotel park, through Monterey, an old 
 Spanish town, with its old mission church still in use for 
 service ; along the shores of Monterey Bay, past seal rocks 
 again, just like those at San Francisco, and protected in the 
 same way ; through the primeval forest of oak, cedar, redwood, 
 pine, and Cyprus trees, every fresh turn giving a glimpse of great 
 beauty, and the freshness of the air, in which is mingled the 
 ozone of the sea, with the balmy breezes of the forest, produces 
 a feeling of admiration for the beauties that Nature so bounti- 
 fully provides for this lovely spot. It is almost worth while to 
 cross the Atlantic, if only to visit Del Monte. 
 
 Another delightful place is Santa Cruz, about half way 
 between Frisco and Monterey, and is much patronized by those 
 who cannot find time to visit the Yosemite valley, for here are 
 some of the big trees for which California is so celebrated. 
 Some of the tree^ are twenty-two feet in diameter, and one has 
 been hoUowed out and made into a room, where twenty people 
 can dine with comfort. San Jos6 and Santa Clara, adjacent 
 places, are well worth seeing, on account of the profusion of 
 flowers to be found on every hand. 
 
 But time is inexorable, and most reluctantly I have this day 
 seen my dear friend Surr off to his home, and in a few hours I 
 am on my way north, to Portland, in Oregon. By-the-bye, I 
 ought not to omit that last Friday there was a slight shock of 
 earthquake that lasted, perhaps, twenty seconds, but not much 
 notice was taken of it. 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 Victoria, B.C., May 22ndf 1891. 
 
 Back again at Victoria. In my last letter I find I have not 
 spoken much of my friend, Mr. Joseph Surr. He still retains all 
 the genial qualities that he had when a member of our Corpor- 
 ation. He has a youthful heart, and a sprightly, impulsive 
 style, with great vigour for a man of his years. He is in appear 
 ance the type of a well-to-do country gentleman, without care of 
 any kind, as well he may, seeing that he has made a large 
 
 1 
 
LETTER TI. 
 
 21 
 
 
 fortune, and retired from business, devoting his time to the 
 benefit of his fellow-citizens by serving on the Board of Educa- 
 tion. The week I spent with him was one of mutual enjoyment ; 
 and the last evening I was with him we spent the time in 
 looking over my pocket-book, and asking questions about the 
 various Aldermen and Common Councilmen whom he knew ; 
 and he begged me to give to each and all of them his warmest 
 regards. 
 
 After seeing him off to his distant home, I took my passage 
 
 by railroad for Portland, in Oregon, in order to see the wondrous 
 
 range of mountains that commences at Sacramento with Mount 
 
 Shasta, and continues on either hand all the way to Portland. 
 
 The first part of the journey up to Sacramento City is performed 
 
 during the night, that portion passing through an agricultural 
 
 district void of particular interest. It was in Sacramento valley 
 
 that the enormous finds of gold took place forty to fifty years 
 
 ago ; and when that industry fell off, it was found that the soil 
 
 was so rich that it became a farming and fruit-growing region 
 
 that has produced almost as much wealth as the yield of gold 
 
 did, and with this advantage, that whereas the miners were a 
 
 lawless and violent body of men, it has now become peaceful 
 
 and law-abiding. The railroad runs alongside the Sacramento 
 
 Biver tu its source, crossing it eighteen times so as to cut off 
 
 angles. The road must have been most expensive to make ; it 
 
 rises in parts to 4,300 feet above the sea level, with very few 
 
 tunnels. In one place it makes a double S, traversing twenty 
 
 miles to get only five miles onwards. Down on the banks, at 
 
 six stations, miners were still at work, with all the contrivances 
 
 for cradling and washing the sand used in the search for gold, 
 
 such as we have all read about, their rude huts close by ; and a 
 
 hard dreary life it must be, with little chance of getting much 
 
 more than a livelihood, let alone a big fortune. A new industry 
 
 has opened up in the shape of lumber mills, which are frequent 
 
 all along tho river, down which the logs are floated where it is 
 
 Qavigable, or cut up for building purposes where it is not, and 
 
 sent forward by rail. 
 
 The whole mountainous district is of volcanic formation. 
 Mount Shasta, with its snow-clad peaks, continues in sight for 
 hours ; on the opposite side are the Castle, or, as sometimes 
 called. Cathedral rocks, because of their fancied resemblance to 
 such buildings. They are inaccessible, barren, and appear like 
 masses of pumice-stone, with the peaks towering high in the 
 air. Then the Three Sisters come into sight ; and so the won- 
 
 fi^ 
 
 II 
 
 : ; 
 
m 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 drous scenery continnes the whole day till nightfall, when the 
 train descends as rapidly as it ascended, and passes through a 
 le' ^1 country until Portland is reached. 
 
 At one point during the afternoon, we came to a spur of 
 Mount Shasta, close to the railroad, and from this spur come 
 rushing out of the side several natural soda-water springs. The 
 train stops for five minutes, and a general exodus takes place to 
 take a drink, the knowing-ones being provided with flasks of 
 brandy, or whiskey, in case the water should be too strong ! 
 
 Portland is a large and populous city of some thirty years' 
 standing. It is on the Willamette Eiver, a branch of the great 
 Columbia Eiver, and its chief industry is flouring mills, as it is 
 the centre of a rich agricultural district. The streets are laid 
 out at right angles, and down each, one, whether going north to 
 south, or east to west, runs a tramcar, driven either by horses, 
 cables, or electricity. The side-walks are mostly of wood, and 
 80 are many of its houses, but there are many most substantial 
 buildings, either of granite or brick, used as banks, stores, and 
 merchants' offices. The City Park is on an eminence, and, with 
 its gymnasium, affords excellent recreation for the people, as the 
 river does for boating purposes. I called upon the Mayor, who 
 was delighted at meeting a member of our ancient Corporation. 
 He compared notes with me, and showed me every civility, and 
 gave me a drive of twenty miles round the city. I learned that 
 the English people residing there were going to have " high 
 jinks " on May 23rd, on the occasion of Her Majesty's birthday, 
 and I was urged to stay for it, but could not spare the time. 
 
 My route northward was by rail to Tacoma, and thence by 
 steamer down Puget Sound to Vancouver, so as to take up my 
 tourist ticket for the Atlantic border ; but meeting a friend in 
 Portland who was interested in extending a new township 
 located opposite Victoria, and learning also that Her Majesty s 
 birthday was to be celebrated in a way so grand that I ought 
 not to miss, I varied my plan, and went with him to Tacoma, 
 thence by steamer to Seattle and Port Townsend. 
 
 These three towns are marked instances of the vitality of the 
 American character. Five years ago, the land that they now 
 occupy was forest land, and, three years back, Seattle was 
 destroyed by fire ; but at the present day they are in the most 
 vigorous condition, each lighted by electricity, with electric cars 
 running through the streets, two or three newspapers, Mayors, 
 Town Councils, and all the usual conditions of places of much 
 older growth. One can scarcely recognize the fact, when looking 
 
 ft 
 
LETTBB VI. 
 
 9d 
 
 at the stately seven or ei^ht-storeyed buildings^ that it has all 
 been accomplished within five years. 
 
 Paget Sound is a magnificent sheet of water, running for oyer 
 100 miles into the heart of Washington Territory — one of the 
 recent States added to the American Union. This State, which 
 is larger than the whole of the United Kingdom, is on the 
 western side of the Bocky Mountains — that great ridge that 
 seems like a backbone to North America. It is a fertile region, 
 and as yet but sparsely inhabited; it offers, therefore, great 
 opportunities for development : hence the rapidity with which 
 new townships are founded. Someone discovers a small creek 
 with water-power coming down from the mountains, and forth- 
 with starts a miU for cutting lumber ; he sends for assistance to 
 far-off states, where labour is abundant, and, as the timber is 
 cleared off the land, houses are rapidly built of the wood ; and, 
 behold, a new town is added to the States ! 
 
 Knowing all this, it was with some curiosity that I visited 
 Port Angeles, situated exactly opposite Victoria, from which it 
 is only sixteen miles distant ; and, of course, they are both the 
 same distance from the Pacific Ocean — say fifty miles. I found 
 Port Angeles to be a natural grand harbour for either refuge or 
 commerce ; and the wonder to me is that it has been neglected 
 80 long. It appears that its usefulness was first discovered in 
 1860, by Mr George Smith, who drew the attention of Presiden*; 
 Lincoln's Government to its grand position for a naval station. 
 But the Civil War broke out ; Mr. Smith was drowned by the 
 loss of a steamer outside San Francisco, and the scheme was 
 lost sight of, until his son, Mr. Norman Smith, set to work to 
 vindicate his father's views as to the value of the place, and, 
 having bought the land very cheaply, induced some 400 people, 
 three years ago, to assist him in founding a town on co-operative 
 principles. This association has, at the present time, in land, 
 workshops, houses, wharves, etc., a capital of 500,000 dollars; 
 and the energy with which they have worked and opened up 
 the place has brought about them at the present moment a 
 population of over 4000. It has a Mayor, Town Council, three 
 weekly newspapers, and, within the last few months, electric 
 lights have been instituted for lighting the streets and shops ; 
 the side walks have been planked, and water-pipes, conveying 
 the purest waters from mountain streams, have been laid down 
 aU over the town. 
 
 The harbour, of which I have spoken, is formed by a natural 
 spur of land, doubtless the result of some volcanic agency in 
 
 m- 
 
 ^ 
 
'-'^?n'»T 
 
 24 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THB GLOBE. 
 
 remote ages, which runs out from the rooks to a distance of two 
 miles from the shore, takes a course eastward for some four 
 miles parallel with the shore, and terminates with a slight turn 
 towards the land. This spur of land is about 1,000 feet wide, 
 and has a lighthouse at its extremity. Very recently twenly 
 large ressels ran into it for safety during a storm. I have 
 taken a great liking to the place, for which I believe there is a 
 grand future ; and although an alien — it is on the American 
 side — I have taken up a block of forty acres, having every con- 
 fidence that before very long it will treble in value at the 
 least. A large amount of English capital is embarked in specu- 
 lations of this kind, and there is ample room for more. Should 
 any of my friends like to follow my example, I shall be pleased 
 to afford them aU the advice and assistance in my power. 
 
 Victoria is to-day preparing for the fHe of to-morrow — the 
 Queen's birthday. People from all the neighbouring towns are 
 expected in shoals ; indeed, it is expected that a great difficulty 
 will be experienced in housing them all. Last year many folks 
 slept under canvas, roughly put up for shelter, but the climate 
 is so dry that no harm comes of it. Mayor Grant has welcomed 
 me back with great heartiness, and I expect to have a right 
 merry time of it. The hotel in which I am lodging is filled 
 with Mayors, Town Councillors, and other principal personages 
 of the neighbouring towns, and among others is a Mr. Goim- 
 cillor Ferkms of Fort Townsend. 
 
 I 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 Victoria, B.C., May 25<A, 1891. 
 
 In British Columbia May 24th is a statute holiday, in honour 
 of the Queen's birthday, and when that day falls on a Sunday, 
 the 25th is substituted. But as Saturday here is always a half- 
 holiday, it was decided by common consent that both Saturday 
 and Monday should be given up to festivities. Crowds from the 
 neighbouring towns are swarming in to take part in the games 
 of cricket, lacrosse, baseball, regattas, rowing matches, fire- 
 works, etc., and the city is en fiU, Splendid cards of invitation, 
 
LETTER Vn. 
 
 25 
 
 together with the programme printed on satin, have been 
 distributed by the Mayor, who, in his desire to do honour to the 
 " old country," personally brought them to me. The whole 
 affair has gooe off to his entire satisfaction, and that of his 
 yisitors, myself included. The loyalty displayed in speeches, 
 designs, flags, and other tokens, rather surprised me, as I have 
 read so much about the strained conditions of things between 
 Canada and the mother country ; but here, in British Columbia, 
 loyalty is triumphant, and no discordant remarks mar the 
 pleasures of the day. But I must tear myself away from this 
 gay and festive scene to prosecute my homeward journey, so I 
 have taken passage for Vancouver, there to resume my baggage, 
 and my " trip round the world." 
 
 
 ToRoiTTO, Jwm \sL 
 
 Four days and nights have I lived in a railroad train, my seat 
 by day being converted into a bed by night, with my opposite 
 neighbour sleeping overhead, just like berths in a ship. Soon 
 after dark, the " nigger gentleman " proceeds to convert the day 
 saloon into a sleeping-room, by drawing down an over-head 
 shelf, connecting the day seats by adding a centre cushion, 
 putting sideboards, mattresses, sheets, pillows, etc, to each, 
 hanging up curtains, which hang from top to bottom, and, lo ! 
 the change is complete. The difficulty is to hide behind the 
 curtains whilst you are undressing and getting into bed, and 
 more difficult still to do the opposite when getting up. Then a 
 rush for the lavatory to get a hasty wash, for perhaps five or 
 six persons may be waiting their turn. While performing your 
 ablutions, the aforesaid nigger is putting back everything in its 
 place ; the windows are opened, and the day car resumes its 
 normal aspect. A dining car accompanies the train, and three 
 excellent meals are served daily. 
 
 The first two days were occupied by watching the wondrous 
 scenery through which the train passes, by the banks of the 
 Fraser and Columbia, and later on by the Eagle and Beaver 
 rivers; by ravines in the sides of the mountains; by terrific 
 passes — the train stops at one pass for five minutes to let you 
 get out and look down off a parapet a sheer fall of 300 ft., 
 with a torrent rushing from a hole in the rocks, finding its 
 way to the river amidst huge boulders, making a fearful din — 
 across the Selkirk range of mountains, and then over and 
 between the Bocky Mountains ; altogether such a route that you 
 
 ;il!i 
 
26 
 
 A T0T7B B0T7ND THB GLOBE. 
 
 are absorbed in wonder at the marvels of Nature. The train 
 reaches an altitude of 5,000 ft., yet above you towers the snow- 
 clad giant, threatening to pour down an avalanche of snow and 
 ice that would send the train to destruction. Nor is this a mere 
 supposition. Avalanches frequently occur ; so for many miles 
 of the tract snow-sheds of massive timbers are erected, under 
 which the trriin proceeds, and, should the snow fall, it rolls 
 off into the valley below. At the steepest part of the road 
 three powerful engines were required to take us to the summit, 
 which is reached at Mount Stephen. From this point to Ban£^ 
 the road gradually descends to 2,500 ft. For a long distance 
 before reaching Ban£^ we had noticed a large number of trees 
 burning, and when about a mile from the station, it looked as 
 if both sides of the railway were on fire, and the very tract 
 destroyed. A man was sent on in front with a lamp to see 
 exactly how matters stood, and he reported that the fire was all 
 on the right-hand side, and the rails not damaged ; so we pro- 
 ceeded to the station, the fire almost scorching our faces as we 
 passed. 
 
 The drought all through Canada and the States has now lasted 
 some weeks, and everything is as dry as tinder. Some of the 
 fires are known to have been caused by the cinders from the 
 engines, and, in one case, by carelessly throwing the end of a 
 cigar alight upon the grass. 
 
 Banff is a place where many persons get out for a few days* 
 rest. A national park has been reserved by the Goveriment, 
 twenty miles long by ten miles wide, comprising some of the 
 finest scenery of mountains, waterfalls, lakes, sulphur springs, 
 «tc., and the neighbourhood is one calculated to invite sportsmen 
 to linger. Travelling from the Pacific coast, Banff is always 
 reached about eleven o'clock at night, so the remainder of the 
 mountain scenery is lost in sleep. 
 
 The next two days were the dullest imaginable ; level ground, 
 devoid of trees, houses, and almost of grass, excepting at the 
 different stations ; and this continues imtil Winnipeg is reached. 
 This is a large and important town, from whence intending 
 settlers in Manitoba take their departure. I took the street car 
 to the further end of the main street, a distance of nearly two 
 miles, and walked leisurely back, so as to get a good view. There 
 is a magnificent town-hall, many good churches and chapels, 
 hotels, stores, shops, and plenty of people, apparently, to fill 
 ihem. It was Wednesday, May 27th, and I bought the evening 
 paper, and, to my surprise, the first thing I read was^" To-day 
 
LETTER Vn. 
 
 27 
 
 d 
 
 the great Derby race at Epsom, London, was mn " ; and then we 
 had the names of the winners, their pedigree, the names of the 
 riders, and some other particulars. The time when I was 
 reading this was half -past fonr p.m. : the race was run at three 
 p.m, and I am 6,000 miles away ! 
 
 Ad. interesting ride of twenty hours from "Winnipeg brought 
 us to Fort William, where I transferred to the ate&meT Athabasca f 
 preferring the route by the lakes to a longer train journey of 
 1,000 miles. She was a fine steamer, capable of carrying a 
 thousand passengers, and frequently has that number during 
 the summer season. The scenery is very fine, both on Lake 
 Superior and Lake Huron, but, unfortunately, it was obscured 
 by the dense smoke arising from the forest fires now devastating 
 the State of Michigan, and which also had the effect of retarding 
 our voyage, the steamer continually stopping to cast the lead ; 
 and a most anxious time it proved for the captain, officers, and 
 passengers, some of whom were slightly alarmed. These lakes 
 are connected by rapids, over which nothing but the Indian 
 bark canoes can venture. The fall is about eighteen feet, so a 
 lock — it is said to be the largest in the world— has been made 
 by which this difference in height is overcome, and the traffic 
 through this lock is greater than that which passes through the 
 Suez Canal. It is curious to watch the passage of tl]^ee or 
 four huge, cumbrous freight steamers in the lock at the same 
 time, carrying, it may be, wheat, iron, stone, or timber, to various 
 ^ ports on the lakes, many such steamers having a capacity of 
 10,000 tons burden. 
 
 We got into Toronto at ten p.m., having been delayed many 
 hours by the smoke. Toronto is a really handsome city, with 
 large, wide streets, running parallel with each other, and others 
 crossing at right angles. It soon becomes easy to find one's 
 way about by this arrangement. The place is severely governed 
 by the civic authorities, on strict moral principles. The by- 
 laws ordain that no swearing is permitted ; drunkenness is a 
 crime that is punished by heavy fines ; adultery and seduction 
 are met by long terms of imprisonment ; tramcars, cabs, and 
 hacks, are totally forbidden on Sundays ; so is the sale of any 
 article except drugs ; and you cannot get a drink of any sort, 
 or a cigar or tobacco, from seven p.m. on Saturday evenings 
 until seven a.m. Monday. Churches abound, and attendance at 
 them is the only break in the Sabbath ; and, I must say that 
 the churches are beautiful, and largely attended. It was a 
 great sight last night to see the thousands turning out of the 
 
 1. 1 
 
 
 i\ 
 
28 
 
 A TOXm ROXTND THE OLOBE. 
 
 various sacred edifices and taking their evening promenade. 
 They are all called " Churches " here, because, as there is no 
 established religion, there can be no Dissenters, and all are on 
 the same voluntary footing. To-day, however, all is changed ; 
 from the strictly devout, the city is all life and bustle : — crowds 
 jostle in the streets, tramcars and cabs ply for hire (by-the- 
 way, the tramcars here, having lasted out their original franchise, 
 have, within the last fortnight, been given up to the Civic 
 authorities, upon payment by the city of a sum for horses and 
 cars, as adjudged by arbitration); the stores are busy with 
 their various trades; drinking and smoking is going on 
 vigorously, as if to make up for yesterday's abstinence ; and so 
 it will go on until Sunday comes again. 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 The Toronto Club, June 8/A. 
 
 Toronto claims to be the most English city in Canada, and 
 to a great extent it is true, and yet one feels that there is a sort 
 of feverish state of existence which seems to attack everybody 
 who lands on the American shores, whether United States or 
 Canada. It has fine, wide streets, but at present is only 
 indifferently paved, wood planking covering the side walks, and 
 buts of cedar-trees or pines forming the roadways. As these 
 logs are not all of the same size or height, they give a jerky 
 motion to vehicles that is far from pleasant ; the tramcars, how- 
 ever, are so numerous, that few persons other than tradesmen 
 or the upper classes notice the inconvenience. 
 
 The Temperance question is carried out to an extent that 
 might almost be called a mania. There are over 200 churches, 
 and only 130 saloons, or places where intoxicants can be pur- 
 chased, including hotels, a proportion that few, if any, other 
 city can parallel. I paid my respects to the Mayor, Mr. E. F. 
 Clarke, who was most anxious to give me all the information 
 in his power as to municipal work. Accordingly, I was handed 
 over to Mr. B. Ardagh, the head of the Fire Department, and 
 was driven by him to various stations, so that I could judge of 
 
LETTER Vni. 
 
 29 
 
 their efficiency. On giving the alarm, electric bells rang over the 
 place, the stable doors opened antomatically, and the horses, of 
 their own accord, ran to the shafts, the men assembled, and all 
 were ready to start in less than one minute. The nse of engines 
 bas almost ceased, and reliance is placed upon the hydrants, 
 which are placed not less than 100 yards apart, and the pressure 
 of water is so great that it can be thrown eighty feet high from 
 a one-inch nozzle. There aie several lofty towers where fire- 
 bells are hung ; every part of the city is connected with the head 
 office, and the whole machinery for coping with fire seems 
 complete. The men are fine samples of firemen; satisfied with 
 their work and wages, and seldom wishing to leave the service. 
 I was shown the drill and performances, exactly the same as was 
 exhibited to the Duke of Connaught when here. Next I was 
 handed over to Colonel Gbesett, Chief of Police, who explained 
 the working of their system, founded somewhat on that of 
 London. 
 
 In every quarter of the city, I had noticed ugly-looking boxes, 
 which, he informed me, were temporary detention boxes, where 
 a prisoner could be placed for a short time whilst the policeman 
 telegraphed for the patrol-van, which started off at once, and 
 brought the prisoner to the gaol, thus preventing the officer 
 leaving his beat, and the sometimes difficult task of dragging 
 his " capture " through the streets. Colonel Qresett had in his 
 . office a glass-case, filled with implements used for burglaries, 
 and murderous implements of offence or defence that had been 
 taken from prisoners. In connection with the police is an 
 ambulance van, and the men are taught the system, and affiliated 
 to the Society of St. John. 
 
 The following day I was placed under the care of Alderman 
 W. D. McFherson, chairman of the Educational Department, 
 and of Mr. James L. Hughes, Chief-Inspector of Schools, who 
 drove me to several schools, both primary and of the higher 
 grade. The primary schools have large class-rooms, ranging £rom 
 eight to sixteen rooms, according to the needs of the neighbour- 
 hood, and the children, boys and girls, are mostly instructed by 
 young ladies. When sufficiently advanced, the children are 
 transferred to the high schools, and in these latter the education 
 is of the widest range. I saw a class of young ladies ^being 
 taught botany, and each one had a plant or flower on her desk, 
 provided by the gardener, and of that plant or flower she was 
 expected to give a full description in writing, according to the 
 dennition of botanical science. Examining a class of boys, I 
 
 'I? 
 
 
80 
 
 A TOTTR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 was inyited to pass through and inspect each boy's work for the 
 day. There were about eighty, and all had been engaged on 
 the same subject, and committed it to writing from oral dicta- 
 tion, the result being remarkably good. Some objection haa 
 been made to the employment of lady teachers for boy classes, 
 but in Toronto it has been found to have an ameliorating 
 influence. All the children seem to take an intelligent interest 
 in their studies, and to be under the complete control of their 
 teachers. For the younger children, each school has a Bander- 
 
 garten class, and it was delightful to witness the pleasure of the 
 ttle things at their lessons. The schools are well built and 
 furnished, but extravagance does not seem tojhave crept in, and 
 the temperature and ventilation, from basement t) roof, is simply 
 perfect, by the use of Smead's system, which has recently been 
 introduced into London. Fire drill is practised every week, and 
 when the alarm is sounded the teacher has complete control 
 over the movements of the children, who are not allowed to 
 leave their seat, only at the word of command, and thus crowd- 
 ing and crushing is avoided. Only a fortnight before I visited 
 the schools a read fire broke out, and a lady teacher, of youthful 
 age, was in command, and so well did she keep the scholars in 
 hand that all were safe in the playground in less than two 
 minutes, and before the firemen reached the spot. She waa 
 highly complimented, both by the Oonmiittee and public press. 
 I think that some of our school authorities might learn a useful 
 lesson by taking a leaf out of Toronto's book. A pleasant 
 little luncheon wound up a most interesting day, and I shall 
 ever think of the Mayor's kindness with much pleasure. If ho 
 and his Council would take up the matter of road-making, and 
 lay all the roads with asphalte, or wood, on our London system, 
 lus city would be one of the best in Canada. 
 
 Of course I paid a visit to the market, which occupies a large 
 area in the centre of a spacious square lying immediately be- 
 hind the principal street, one side of the square being the site 
 of the City Hall. It is a general market, the property of the 
 Corporation, and the shops are let on rental, subject to police 
 supervision, and under by-laws as to the regulation of the traffic^ 
 otherwise the business does not seem to be interfered with by any 
 Corporation Committee. The market is adequate to the present 
 needs of the population, now about 200,000, but is scarcely 
 likely to be so when it has increased to one million, which they 
 are sanguine of reaching in time; and space has been left 
 within &e city boundary to afford sufficient accommodation for 
 
 * 
 
LETTEB VZU. 
 
 31 
 
 the population reacliing the latter growth. The large number 
 of stately edifices used for banks, newspaper offices and life 
 assurance companies — many of them being from seyen to ten 
 storeys high, with elevators to the top floors, from whence a 
 splendid view of the city is obtained — is evidence that a great 
 future is expected ; and one office, the Corporation Life Asso- 
 ciation, not content with their present handsome location, is 
 building in the neighbourhood of the post-office an enormous 
 block, from which two lofty towers wiU lift their proud heads, 
 that is to eclipse everything in the city. There must be enor- 
 mous profits arising jbrom such institutions, for I have noticed 
 throughout my wanderings that they are located in the finest 
 positions, and are the most beautiful architectural edifices. 
 
 From Toronto, I went to Niagara Falls, partly by steamer, 
 partly by rail (in all a four hours trip), and put up at the village 
 of Niagara, on the American side. At one time a visit to the 
 Falls was a matter of great expense ; squatters had monopolized 
 aU the best views, and charged extortionately for admittance. 
 This was such a reproach, that the Canadian Government on 
 the one side, and the United States on the other, bought up all 
 rights, and formed parks nearly ten miles long, which are open 
 to the public free from aU expense. Nice seats are erected at aU 
 the best points of view ; one can linger as long as one pleases, can 
 ramble from Bath Island to Goat Island, the Sister Islands, the 
 Luna Island, and watch the rapids and cascades at one's own 
 sweet will on the American side, or, by going over the sus- 
 pension bridge— for which a charge of one shilling is made to 
 go and return — a splendid view of the American Falls and of 
 tiiie Horseshoe Fall is obtained ; and following the Victoria Park 
 to see the rapids of the Niagara Biver, you can stroll over the 
 Dufferin Islands, so tastefully bridged together and many miles 
 in extent, with the waters dashing and roaring as they speed 
 on to the final leap. In common with many other persons, I 
 was not so overpowered with the first view ; but on lingering 
 there for three days, they fascinated me with their grandeur 
 and immensity, and I am compelled to say that no combination 
 of words that the most gifted author could use at all approaches 
 the true description. It never tires : the longer you stay the 
 longer you wish to stop, and it requires the stronger force of cir- 
 cumstances to tear one's self away. 
 
 The source of the falls is the overflow of the immense Lakes 
 Superior, Huron, Michigan, and Erie. At lake Erie, the 
 Niagara Biver begins its course to lake Ontario, which is nearly 
 
32 
 
 A TOVR ROTTHD TBS OLOBE. 
 
 two hnndred feet lower in level than the other lakes, and as 
 the river gets narrower, having been navigable for thirty miles, 
 the waters leap over the rocks in one everlasting awful current 
 that nothing can oppose. Having taken this wonderful leap, 
 with a surprising and deafening roar, the river for a mile or so 
 looks calm, but again narrowing, fresh rapids are formed, which 
 end in a whirlpool, in which it may be remembered Captain Webb 
 lost his life in his foolhardy attempt to swim through it. After 
 the whirlpool, the river widens, and empties into Lake Ontario, 
 and is navigable by large steamers. This latter lake runs for 
 about 180 miles from Toronto, and enters the river St. Law- 
 rence, and so finds its way to the ocean. I went behind the 
 Horseshoe Falls, in a gallery cut in the solid rock, to see the 
 effect of the water falling like a huge crystal curtain before you. 
 You have to wear a suit of tarpaulins that envelop you ^om 
 head to foot, or you would be drenched to the skin ; and so it 
 is in taking a trip in the " Maid of the Mist," a small steamer 
 that takes you close to the falling spray, and right into the foam, 
 and looks as if she were seeking destruction, but after twenty 
 minutes you find yourself on terra firmay once more filled with 
 strange emotions from the unusual kind of voyage. 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 Buffalo, N.Y., June 13/A, 1891. 
 
 Buffalo, being in the vicinity of Niagara, and a place of 
 great importance in the grain and lumber trade, I made a 
 slight ditour to see it. It is situated on Lake Erie, just where 
 the lake enters the Niagara Eiver on its way to the Falls, 
 from which it is thirty miles distant, all but the last seven miles 
 being navigable. It is a remarkably handsome city, the streets 
 being vdde, and for the most part paved with asphalte. They 
 boast of having over a hundred miles thus paved, the sole 
 exception being Main Street, the chief business sti'eet, and 
 that, with its immense traffic, is indeed a hard road to travel, 
 made up of large blocks of stone or wood, with deep spaceB 
 between, the rails for street cars rather above the surface, 
 
 |w^ 
 
T 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 33 
 
 Le 
 
 together making a most tmoomfortable road for vehicles. 
 Most of the streets have the old trees lining each side of the 
 way, which gives a very refreshing appearance ; the houses, of 
 good size, mostly of brown brick or stone, and many large and 
 stately buildings, give evidence of its being a wealthy place. 
 An enormous park and cemetery, both handsomely planned as 
 to paths, but retaining as far as possible the natural state of 
 things, give beauty and recreation to the inhabitants. I waited 
 upon the Mayor, Mr. C. F. Bishop, who received me with the 
 greatest courtesy ; informed me as to their municipal arrange- 
 ments ; asked me to ascend the tower of the City Hall, over two 
 hundred feet high, by a winding staircase, to obtain a view of 
 the city ; but, as he candidly avowed that he had never had the 
 courage to go up, I also declined, preferring to attend a sitting 
 of the Council then in session. The municipal buildings con- 
 tain, besides the Mayor's parlour, offices for all the Council 
 officers, and the Council Chamber. I was shown into many of 
 the offices, and introduced to the heads of departments, and, to 
 my surprise, found nearly everybody smoking. Think of our 
 Town Clerk and the Chamberlain solacing themselves with a 
 cigar in the midst of daily work I When I entered the Council, 
 I saw the President standing to put the question "Aye," or 
 *' No," with a bell in one hand and a cigar in the other ; most 
 of the Aldermen and Councillors smoking, and even the public 
 doing the same. I was promptly oflFered a " smoke." To me it 
 was the funniest thing I had met with, combijiing business 
 and pleasure. It is the custom in the States to elect a Pre- 
 sident of the Council, as the Mayor's time is fully occupied on 
 other matters. The mayors are elected for two years, and are 
 eligible for re-election. I obtained a splendid view of the city 
 from the roof of the Iroquois Hotel, an eleven-storey erection, 
 ascended by an elevator, which I find to be a most pleasant way 
 of obtaining good views. 
 
 Betoming to Toronto, getting one long, last, lingering look 
 at the Falls, as we passed in the train, my next point was 
 Montreal, which can be reached either by railway or by steamer 
 down the lake of Ontario, threading the celebrated Thci^and 
 Islands and the rapids, which is by far the most interesting 
 route, but occupying thirty hours in transit as against twelve by 
 railway. 
 
 Local guide books give such ample description of this locality 
 that I will not weary my readers with detailed information ; 
 fluffice it to say that many of the islands are large enough to be 
 
 . 
 
 
34 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 inhabited by considerable numbers of people, whilst others are 
 BO small as to have but a single tree growing upon them. As the 
 steamer winds its way along, it sometimes seems that there is 
 " no thoroughfare," but at last a turn of the helm gives a vista 
 of renewed beauty. The great charm of the passage is, however, 
 the " shooting of the rapidj." There are five sets of rapids in 
 all, caused by the rush of water between the islands and the 
 nwmerous rocks that beset the channel, the principal ones being 
 Long Sault and Lachine. It looks as if the steamer must be 
 dashed to pieces — as if being deliberately steered to destruction 
 — for amidst the boiling foam stands out a huge rock. You 
 notice that four seamen have gone to assist the man at the 
 wheel, that you are rapidly approaching the rock, when the 
 mighty current dashes the steamer's head to one side, and she 
 would be inevitably driven against a lower and opposing rock 
 but for the efforts of the men at the wheel, under the direction 
 of the Indian pilot, who stands calm and unmoved, and the 
 vessel glides into smooth water. 
 
 All this is particularly noticeable at the Lachine Rapids, 
 perhaps the most dangerous of all, where the rocks look very 
 ugly, and the stoutest heart cannot help feeling just a little 
 alarmed. In loss than ten minutes after, the steamer is safely 
 moored alongside the quay in Montreal. 
 
 Montreal is the largest city in Canada, and although it is not 
 the seat of the goverment — which is at Ottawa — it is really the 
 commercial capital and the centre of trade. It is well graded, 
 the streets being at right angles, most of them paved with 
 asphalte, lighted by electricity, street cars in nearly every one 
 of them, most substantial and elegant buildings for banks, 
 offices, and stores, churches in abundance, and the public build- 
 ings, such as the Post-office and City Hall, being splendid speci- 
 mens of architecture. The majority of the people are Eomanists, 
 and their principal church " Notre Dame," is a splendid instance 
 of Gothic taste — very large, and to some extent incongruous, 
 having two galleries round three sides of it. I saw it well filled 
 on a Sunday morning, and the volume of sound when the whole 
 congregation sang was immense. The principal place of resort 
 is the Boyal Mountain Park, perhaps 600 feet high, ascended 
 by an elevator railway drawn up by ropes ; from the top of 
 which is a fine view of the city and the river St. Lawrence. This 
 is the head-quarters of the .AJlan line of steamers to England, 
 and the limit of ocean-going vessels, the channel above being im- 
 passable. Indeed, the steamers that shoot the rapids have to 
 
 .L.-__ 
 
LETTER IX. 
 
 35 
 
 1 
 
 Tetum by means of a canal to a point in the islands above where 
 the rapids commence. 
 
 According to my custom, I waited upon the Mayor, the Hon. 
 James MoShane, a gentleman of great popularity in the city, 
 and who received 5,000 more votes than had ever been given to 
 a mayor. He has risen from the ranks to the highest 
 office in the province of Ontario, and resigned that position to 
 become Mayor, in order to serve and protect the working classes, 
 whose idol he is, in fact he is known as " the people's Jimmy." 
 I found him at a sort of levde, sitting in his parlour, receiving 
 any and all persons wishing to speak to him, even without in- 
 troduction. This he does twice a week ; and there was a host 
 of people — some wanting work, others seeking charity, wives 
 pleading for husbands, or sons "taken up "and charged with 
 breaches of the law, travelling musicians asking permits to play 
 in the city, young and friendless ladies wishing to be put in 
 the way of earning an honest living. It was, indeed, curious 
 to note the many wants brought before him. Those that re- 
 quired more consideration than he could give were handed over 
 to one of the Aldermen, until the whole were disposed of. In 
 the meantime I was taken charge of by the ex-Mayor, and with 
 him exchanged notes as to where we resembled and where we 
 differed in municipal work. When my stay was coming to a 
 conclusion, champagne and apollinaris were ordered, which 
 closed the meeting very appropriately. It is surprising how 
 the visit of so humble a personage as myself, but coming from 
 the old country, and being a member of its oldest Corporation, 
 is appreciated. I would advise any of my colleagues not to 
 *'hide their light under a bushel," when travelling, but make a 
 point of calling upon civic dignitaries. One learns many things 
 which seem strange at first but after a time are found to be 
 improvements. This part of Canada having formerly been a 
 French possession, the French language is in general use, but 
 most educated people speak both English and French. The 
 Mayor had to change from one to the other frequently, when 
 listening to the wants of the people ; and it is the same aU over 
 the province. The Canadians' pronunciation of French is more 
 like that in use in Brittany than the Continent ; in fact, the first 
 colonists came from that part of France. 
 
 A trip to the historical city of Quebec, which is about 180 
 miles down the St. Lawrence, could not be excluded from my 
 list of visits. Very fine steamers run every evening, excepting 
 Sundays, from Montreal, reaching Quebec about six o'clock in 
 
 D 2 
 
 ivMiith^l-,-'- 
 
i 1 
 I ; 
 
 ■HH 
 
 36 
 
 A TOXm B0X7ND THE GLOBE. 
 
 II! 
 
 the morning, and a beautiful trip it is. The best thing to do, 
 if you have but one day at your disposal, is to charter a car- 
 riage directly after breakfaut — served on board at seven a.m., — 
 and drive to the chief points of interest in the suburbs and on 
 the heights, leaving strolling about the town until the after- 
 noon, just before the steamer sails again for Montreal. Thus 
 you dnve out to the Falls of Montmorency. "Oh ! you must 
 do the Falls," says everybody to you ; and when you see them, 
 having come almost straight from Niagara, you think them 
 " very smaU potatoes." Still, for all that, it is a mighty fall, 
 exceeding Niagara by nearly eighty feet, but there is not the 
 body of water rushing over ; it is a comparatively small, un- 
 navigable river, rising in the mountains, about ten miles off, and 
 falls into the St. Lawrence at this spot. If one had not seen 
 Niagara first, this of Montmorency would have been considered 
 very sublime, with its veil of spray, and the wonderful rainbow 
 arising from the rays of the sun shining on the spray. 
 
 A long drive brings you to the upper part of the city, known 
 as the "Plains of Abraham." Here the celebrated battle took 
 place between the English and French, commanded respectively 
 by General Wolfe and General Montcalm, in which the former 
 gained the victory, and lost his life. There is a monument 
 erected to the memory of Wolfe on the spot where he fell mor- 
 tally wounded, and another to the joint memory of them, having 
 "Montcalm" engraved on one side of the pedestal, and 
 " Wolfe " on the other. Strong fortifications are on the 
 heights, which, even in these days of heavy guns, would be 
 hard to take. Many parts of the old town are still standing ; 
 (the head-quarters of Montcalm are unaltered), but the new is 
 predominating. Parliament House, City Hall, post-offices, md 
 many new hotels are notable buildings ; a fashionable prom- 
 enade, k ..own as Dufferin, affords a capital view of the city and 
 river, and there is still a large business done ; but, unfortu- 
 nately, there are signs of decay arising. I heard that within a 
 month three sugar refineries had been closed, many stores were 
 unoccupied, and in conversation with people whom I should 
 think were in a position to judge, I was i;old that businees 
 was gradually falling off and making for Montreal. Priest- 
 craft seems to be at the bottom of aU this change of circum- 
 stances ; the priests do not wish the people to be educated, c: 
 only to receive such education as they choose to give; servant .'* 
 in private houses are urged to give more of their wages ; and 
 if they say they cannot afford more, they are told to ask for 
 
 I 
 
 \\ 
 
LETTER X. 
 
 37 
 
 higher wages, and threaten to leave if not raised, and so the 
 coffers of the Church are maintained. Quebec is far more 
 under the Romish yoke than Montreal ; at all events, the people 
 have submitted to it more readily, and the result is stagnation. 
 My return trip to Montreal was as pleasant as the outward one, 
 and I shall long remember with pleasure the hours I spent in 
 the two citias. 
 
 LETTEE X. 
 
 j 
 
 I 
 
 Boston, July llthf 1891. 
 
 Boston reminds me more of an English city than any I have 
 seen in the States. It is old-fashioned and tortuous in the 
 older parts, and that comp- *.ses the major part of the business 
 streets, and there the comparison ceases. The newer part is 
 laid out on the American plan of avenues and streets at right 
 angles. These avenues stretch away far into the suburbs, and 
 contain many fine residences. There is an indication of wealth 
 aU around ; and I was told that business was on the increase, and 
 there was nothing to complain of on that score. Having had a 
 good look around, I waited upon the Mayor as usual. 
 Unfortunately he was out ; but his private secretary made me 
 acquainted with their management of municipal matters. They 
 have Aldermen and Common Councillors. The Mayor need not 
 be a member of either of those bodies, as the Council is presided 
 over by a President elected from the Aldermen. I made inquiry 
 ap to their management of the markets, and found that they 
 were built and controlled by the Council ; that only rents were 
 charged for the shops and stalls, toll being unknown ; and 
 farmers were allowed to sell produce from the waggon without 
 any charge. He placed a carriage at my disposal, and sent a 
 clerk with me, not only to inspect the markets, but to view the 
 eights of the city generally. I had a long interview with the 
 superintendent of the market, and found in the main that he 
 had much the same duties to perform as our Mr. Stephens and 
 Mr. Philcox have to do, to whor^ he sent his compliments and 
 respects. The markets are substantial buildings, well placed in 
 the centre of the city, with wide streets all round, giving ample 
 
38 
 
 A TOUB ROTJITD THE GLOBE. 
 
 'ii 
 
 ill! 
 
 space for tlie vehicles that attend the market. I was pleased 
 with the general arrangement, the cleanliness, and the passage- 
 room for the pnblic. "We then proceeded to the harbour, and 
 found it to consist of a spacious bay, dotted with hundreds of 
 islands that give it a very picturesque appearance ; ships once 
 inside find good moorings, and are practically land-locked. 
 Docks, in the sense of those we have in London, there are none^ 
 but ships are moored alongside the wharves of such merchants 
 to whom they are consigned. One of the wharves had this 
 notice upon it : ** This is the wharf where the tea was thrown 
 overboard," referring to an incident in the history of Boston, 
 that precipitated the "WV' '^f Independence. 
 
 Boston was one of i. jarly settlements of the Pilgrim 
 Fathers, and there are mauy relics of their time still retained. 
 The old City Hall is now the home of the Massachusetts' 
 Historical Society, and they have collected old letters, old books,^ 
 old pictures and engravings — in fact all that they have been able 
 to lay hands upon — and a visit is very interesting. Some few 
 years ago a fire made great havoc of the old tenements ; but 
 fortunately it stopped before destroying the oldest meeting-house, 
 where, in the seventeenth century, the Davenports, the Emer- 
 sons, the Mathews, held forth, and proved to their own and their 
 hearers' satisfaction that they were the saints of the Lord, and 
 that the fulness of the earth was fairly theirs. Li the places of 
 the old buildings have arisen a wonderful set of palatial offices, 
 many of them twelve storeys high ; but that is no disadvantage 
 in these days, the use of elevators in America being universal. 
 In fact, the upper rooms are now most sought after, being cooler, 
 and getting more fresh air, and less noise. From one of these I 
 got a splendid view of the city. The new City Hall is a very 
 fine building, and exceeds ours in size. The State offices, or the 
 official residence of the Governor, with its great gilded dome, is 
 a noble structure, standing on an eminence, and in all " views 
 of Boston " it is the dominant figure. 
 
 But the glory of the Bostonians is the monument on Bunker 
 Hill, erected to commemorate an incident in the early part of 
 the War of Independence, when 3,000 sharp-shooters on the 
 American side threw up a sort of fortification on this mound to 
 stop the advance of the British army of 4,500. The firing of 
 these men was so effective that soon 1,500 British troops were 
 killed; the failing of ammunition, however, caused the 
 Americans to " bolt " after losing about 500 of their men, and 
 the English remained masters of the field. The monument is 
 
 
LETTER X. 
 
 39 
 
 > 
 
 a square obelisk of granite, 220 feet liigh, and, of course, a 
 splendid view can be obtained from the top ; but the absence of 
 an elevator was enough to make me decline the ascent, with 
 the thermometer at 90 deg. in the shade, so we drove to the 
 neighbouring town of Cambridge, which appears but a suburb, 
 being continuous with Boston, and only divided by a creek that 
 runs up from the sea. Although a small place, it has a great 
 reputation, being the seat of Harvard University, one of the 
 most celebrated of the educational establishments in America. 
 It was vacation time when I visited it, but I was able to inspect 
 all the main buildings, the statues, the library, and recitation- 
 rooms, to wander in the well-kept gardens, and mentally to 
 compare this university with those of Oxford and Cambridge in 
 my OWE country ; and I could not help feeling that the halo and 
 glory of antiquity were wanting. Close by these classic groves 
 is the home in which Longfellow lived and died ; Elmwood 
 House, the home of James Eussell Lowell, recently ambassador 
 to England ; and, further on, Mount Auburn Cemetery, where 
 rest the remains of Longfellow. The tomb is in the form of a 
 sarcoplaguB of granite, very simple in design, and bears only the 
 word, " Longfellow," and the date. The cemetery is a wonder- 
 ful spot for landscape gardening, being a series of hills and 
 dales, the designer having taken every advantage of the 
 situation. It covers a large surface, and the diversity of vaUey, 
 hill, lake, and trees, is very charming, a fitting resting-place 
 for a great poet. The following stanza from his writings would 
 have been appropriate : — 
 
 "Dust thou ai*t, to dust retmning, 
 Was not spoken of the soul.* 
 
 y» 
 
 The whole city is redolent of recollections both of the War of 
 Iniependence and the Civil War, so there is no fear of the 
 ridng generation remaining in ignorance of the deeds of their 
 ancestors. On every hand are to be found monuments to the 
 fallen heroes, successful generals, and eminent statesmen. 
 Washington, of course, is the most frequent ; Franklin, Everett, 
 Jefferson, Adams, and many others illustrate the first war ; and 
 Grant, Sherman, Sheridan, Jackson, Meade, and many others, 
 Tepresent the Civil War ; and in every park, garden, or open 
 space, these memorials meet your view j in fact you cannot get 
 away from them. 
 
 There is a large traffic between Boston and New York, and 
 the favourite method is to take the large steamers that sail 
 
40 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 from each place every evening and do the journey during the 
 night. These are very large vessels, like those that frequently 
 illustrate American views. They.are four-deckers, the lowest deck 
 being the dining saloon, the next the deck for embarking and 
 landing ; above is the grand saloon, and above this is a gallery. 
 State rooms are on all the decks, with an outside promenade 
 from fore to aft. A band of music accompanies each steamer, 
 and from five p.m. to seven p.m., and again from eight p.m. to 
 half-past ten p.m. discourse sweet music, both in the popular and 
 classic styles. Sometimes dancing is introduced, and altogether 
 the trip is made very agreeable. Some of your readers may 
 remember a comedy that was on our stage a few years ago, 
 called " Fun on the Bristol^''* that being the name of a celebrated 
 steamer of that date, now superseded by still finer vessels, the 
 Filgrim and Puritan^ fitting names for ships sailing from New 
 England waters. In ordinary times, the steamers carry from 
 500 to 800 passengers, and in the height of the summei season 
 more than double that number. They are huge, floating hotels, 
 handsomely decorated in white and gold, well carpeted, and 
 having aU the accommodation the most fastidious could desire. 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 Delaware Water Gap, Pennsylvania, July 20thf 189L 
 
 On my way to Philadelphia, I went off the line to visi; a 
 fellow-passenger who had gone round the world with me, and 
 keeps a farm at Bordentown, one of the old historic cities 
 of New Jersey. Here I spent four quiet days, recuperating 
 from the fatigues of travel — enjoying the calm serenity of farm 
 life, and the pleasure of partaking of fresh milk and buttei, 
 fresh vegetables, and fruit plucked daily for the table. The 
 country around was diversified by hill, valley, and stream ; the 
 soil was rich, and abundantly repaid the farmer's toil. It really 
 seemed as if I was in the Land of Promise. It was dusk when I 
 arrived, and I was struck with the enormous number of glow- 
 worms and fire-bugs in the hedges and trees, the last-named 
 
LETTER XI. 
 
 41 
 
 S 
 
 'being a fly that gives off flashes of electric light every second or 
 so, which has a most peculiar and pleasing effect. In my friend's 
 " huggy" I explored the neighbourhood, visiting other farmers, 
 and being received with that unbounded hospitality accorded 
 by Americans to visitors from the old country. They revel in 
 giving a hearty welcome to such, and they show a great venera- 
 tion for the land from whence their ancestors came. They are 
 eager to learn if any of their old connections are known by their 
 visitor, and listen with interest to the description one can give 
 of particular localities. Many of these farmers are very wealthy 
 men, and you frequently find that they have business engage- 
 ments in the large cities, and carry on the farm more for amuse- 
 ment than profit, although as I have previously hinted, farming 
 in this part of the country pays. 
 
 Bordentown was selected at a very early date for a settlement ; 
 it is situated on the Delaware river, which is navigable to the 
 ocean, and this perhaps influenced the choice. During the 
 War of Independence, it was the scene of many a hard fought 
 skirmish, and evidence of this is seen in the church of Prospect, 
 which was riddled by cannon shot, two of the holes remaining 
 to this day. It was also chosen as the retreat of the Bonaparte 
 family, when exiled from France after the collapse of its chief 
 member. Joseph Bonaparte, erewhile King of Italy and King 
 of Spain, here bought an estate, built a mansion, kept a yacht 
 on the Delaware, and made a subterraneous tunnel from the 
 mansion to the river side, so as to enable him to escape if danger 
 threatened ; kept up considerable state, and came to be greatly 
 beloved by the inhabitants. Prince Murat, one of Napoleon's 
 dashing cavalry officers, took up his residence near by, and 
 quite a French colony was formed, which is shown by the 
 names of families to this time, although the language has 
 vanished. Joseph Bonaparte lived to see his nephew. Napoleon 
 III., on the throne of France, and returned thither to die. The 
 fact that he was once King of Spain has led the people of New 
 Jersey to be nicknamed by other states, " Spaniards," but that 
 is the only reason, for there is no Spanish element in the place. 
 The estate he occupied has passed into the possession of the 
 Boman Catholics, who maintain it as a retreat for their priests 
 during vacations. 
 
 Another noted personage still lives here, at Ironsides, the 
 family home of old Commodore Stewart, one of America's heroes, 
 in the person of his daughter, Mrs. Pamell, the aged mother of 
 Charles Stewart PameU, Home Buler, would-be ruler of the 
 
42 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Irish Party, the husband of divorced Mrs. O'Shea, and the 
 owner of other eccentric qualifications. It is a pleasant and 
 rural retreat on the river's bank, and it is a marvel how the late 
 Miss Fanny Pamell could have imbibed such ultra strong views — 
 such dynamite views, as she was used to uphold — in so peaceful 
 an atmosphere. But human nature is often erratic, and as, 
 according to Carlyle, there are lots of us to be included amongst 
 fools, so it is only charitable to suppose that she was one of the 
 latter, and not really vicious. 
 
 Near by, in the State of Pennsylvania, is the place where I am 
 writing this, the Delaware Water Gap. It is a little village, much 
 resorted to by New Yorkers, situated in the mountains, 
 celebrated for its scenery, for the purity of the atmosphere, and 
 other life-giving qualities. Here in the summer months they 
 crowd to revel in rustic scenery, mountainous drives, or listen 
 to the cataract — not so magnificent as Niagara, but a respectable 
 one, especially after a few days rain, such as we have had to 
 put up with. Fishing, sailing, or rowing on the Delaware, is 
 within the reach of all, and tends to calm the feverish rush of 
 business life in the States. Asa gentleman remarked just now, 
 of New York : there are two streams of people going in opposite 
 directions, and unless you run with one or the other, you will 
 be simply pushed down and lost sight of. " Hurry up " is 
 the universal motto, and hence the necessity for such retreats 
 as this. 
 
 Philadelphia, the Quaker City, or the City of Brotherly Love 
 (for it is called by aU these names), is the capital of the State of 
 Pennsylvania, after the name of its founder, William Penn, who 
 left England with a band of followers to escape persecution. 
 It was, and perhaps is, the second city of the States, but 
 Chicago runs it close in the matter of population, and the result 
 of the present census may possibly place it as third. It is a 
 very handsome city, has many stately buildings, a splendid City 
 Hall not yet finished, built in the form of a square, with an 
 immense inner quadrangle, with a public passage through it 
 from north to south and east to west, a dome over the west 
 entrance, and a lofty tower over the east, but not yet completed. 
 The Mayor, Mr. Stewart, was unfortunately absent, but a friend, 
 Mr. Conrad, whom I previously knew, piloted me to the chief 
 places of interest, and refreshed me at his club, the Union 
 League. The old City Hall, known as Independence Hall, for 
 it was within its walls the original Declaration of Independence 
 was drawn up and signed, was our first point, and it was full of 
 
LETTER XI. 
 
 48 
 
 records of that time, with portraits of the men who brought it 
 mainly about. Next, to llie Mint, where now only silver is 
 coined, and the whole operation was shown to us. Then to one 
 of the principal stores, an immense block, where everything is 
 sold from a toothpick to a gold watch ; it is run by Wanna- 
 maker, the present Postmaster-General, and a millionaire. To 
 Girard's CoUege, Carpenter's Hall, the Custom House, the Post 
 Office, a grand marble edifice, the Mercantile Library, the Bidge- 
 way Library, the Academy of Arts, made up a long round of 
 visits, all of a most interesting character ; but the building I 
 most wished to inspect was closed, viz., the Masonic Temple, pro- 
 bably the largest existing home that body possesses in any place 
 in the world. Externally, it is very handsome, and, like most 
 of the buildings I have named, constructed of white marble, with 
 a square tower rising some 200 feet. My friend not being able 
 to spare any more time, I waited upon another gentleman whose 
 acquaintance I made at Del Monte, California, Mi*. Staake, an 
 attorney, who had extracted a promise from me that if ever I 
 visited Philadelphia, I would call upon him. Luckily he was 
 in, and at once ordered his carriage and drove me round the 
 city to take a general view of it, and then wound up with a 
 visit to the celebrated Fairmount Park, said to be the largest 
 city park in the world, embracing a total area of 2,700 acres, being, 
 in one direction nearly fourteen miles long. The Schuylkill river 
 runs a long distance through it, and also the Wissahickon creek, 
 and the combination of these waters with hills and valleys, make 
 up a series of most charming landscapes. Moreover, it has a 
 large number of statues adorning every turn of the paths, a 
 colossal bronze one of Abraham Lincoln being the most notice- 
 able. It was in this park that the great Centenary Exhibition 
 of 1876 was held, and some of the buildings then used still 
 remain, one being the Memorial Hall, now devoted to a 
 permanent art and industrial exhibition, similar to that we have 
 at South Kensington. Another building was presented to the 
 city by the English exhibitors as a token of friendship between 
 the two nations, and is used as the horticultural building. I 
 found the time at my disposal all too short for a visit to such a 
 famous place, but it may tempt me to go there again. 
 
44 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Washington, D.C, July 21nd, 1891. 
 
 Washington, the capital of the United States, the seat of the 
 Federal Government, and the home of the President, is the 
 most handsome city I have met with in the States, and the reason 
 is that it was mapped out and planned before a single house 
 was built or the streets graded. When the site was determined 
 it was in the centre of the then occupied States ; now, of course, 
 by the march of events, which has added the Far West right to 
 the Pacific Ocean within its jurisdiction, it is an eastern city. 
 It is built on a projecting point of land formerly in the State 
 of Maryland, and divided fiom "Virginia by the Potomac River, 
 which bounds it ol two sides. Tie city is a distinct province ; is 
 not included in any uue of the States ; is not subject to the State 
 laws, and foverned solely by tho President andjhis Cabinet; con- 
 sequently ti-9re is neither Mayor nor Corporation, the inhabi- 
 tants have no voting qualification, and it is unique in every 
 respect. Here was a wonderful opportunity for architect and 
 engineer, and they laid out the ground by wide avenr^es and 
 streets crossing them at right angles ; nothing crooked in the 
 arrangement, and aU on the square. They took occasion to re- 
 serve immc "^e spaces for parks and gardens, and probably no 
 other city possesses so many breathing spaces where children 
 can play and older folks can sit and rest in the shade of 
 trees. The principal avenue, named Pennsylvania, is 160 ft. 
 wide, with the Capitol at the eastern end, and the WTiite House 
 at the south-west end; whilst another avenue goes more directly 
 to the west, where, at the extreme point and close to the river, 
 stands George Washington's monument. The Capitol is a huge, 
 elegant building, very similar in appearance to St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, supposing that to have a large extension towards Lud- 
 gate-hill, and another towards the east, where the school used to 
 stand. It is built on an eminence that requires over one 
 hundred steps to reach the ground floor. The centre part is of 
 stone, painted white, but the extensions or wings are of white 
 marble ; it stands in a large open space, and on the eastern 
 front looks on to a large park, whilst the western front looks 
 down towards the White House, seen about a mile and a-half 
 
m 
 
 LETTER Xn. 
 
 46 
 
 oflf. The avenue between is made up of the principal hotels, 
 stores, various institutions, etc., with horse-cars, omnibuses, 
 buggies, cabs, and all kinds of vehicles passing, and presents 
 a very brilliant picture. The north wing is devoted to the Senate, 
 the south to the House of Bepresentatives, both very fine 
 chambers, with an allotted seat for each member. The Eotunda, 
 under the dome, is adorned by eight large oil paintings repre- 
 senting scenes in the War of Independence, of course, in each 
 instance, with the Americans beating the English, any reverses 
 being kept out of view. A large number of statues adorn the 
 building, representing the most eminent statesmen, generals, and 
 scholars. The length of the whole building is 750 feet, width 
 of Eotunda 96 feet, and the heigli ' of the dome is 307 feet 
 above the base line, and is surmounted by a lantern 52 feet high^ 
 again by a ball, and in turn by a bronze statue of Liberty 19^ 
 feet high. 
 
 But stop, I am not writing a guide book, simply my impres- 
 sions, but I know these dimensions made a most decided im- 
 pression upon me during a stay of several hours, surveying all the 
 details. 
 
 The White House, on the other hand, is a mean affair, and 
 no potentate in Europe is so badly housed from a palatial point 
 of view. Very likely it is a pleasant home inside, but it has no 
 garden outside ; unfortunately I could not get a glimpse of the 
 inside, for it was in the hands of contractors — whitewashings 
 painting, papering, and aU that sort of thing — whilst the Presi- 
 dent with his family were taking holiday at his favourite sea- 
 side resort. Cape May. 
 
 The Washington monument is an obelisk of granite, built up 
 555 feet high ; an elevator inside hoists the spectator to a height 
 of 500 feet, and there are large windows on each of its east, 
 west, north, and south sides, from which a s^'-^ndid view is ob- 
 tained, the course of the Potomac being traced for many miles. 
 No charge is made for the ascent, for, like all Government 
 buildings in America, it is for the people, belongs to the people, 
 and therefore free to visit. That is one benefit of Bepublican 
 institutions : springing from the people, they belong to the nation, 
 and there is less red-tape than in England. All you want to 
 know is — " Is it a public building ? " And if it is, open the door, 
 march in, walk about, ask for what information you require^ 
 and it is freely accorded. 
 
 The other public buildings of importance is the United States 
 Treasury, where the gold coinage is stored to meet demands of 
 
46 
 
 A TOUR ROUiro THE GLOBE. 
 
 paper-money ; but, it is a cnrions thing in America, nobody 
 carries gold, they don't like it ; even in the stores they look 
 suspiciously at it-but give them a dirty bit of nasty looking paper, 
 which states that it is good for five dollars, and they receive it 
 without hesitation. In this building is printed all the paper- 
 money and bonds issued by the Government, and when they 
 at last are returned past further use, they are converted into 
 pulp and made up into souvenirs of the place, each piece, which 
 you can buy for a few cents, having formerly represented 
 several thousand dollars. Close by the Treasury is the office 
 of the State, War, and Navy Departments, where models of 
 ships, guns, fortresses, uniforms, and other interesting objects 
 can be inspected ; so also at the Patent Office, where all models 
 of inventions are exhibited. The Post-oflice is a very imposing 
 and vast edifice of white marble, weU suited to the postal 
 necessities of America, and then near by is a new building 
 called the Pension Building, having a vast interior court filled 
 with cupboards to hold the applications and qualifications of 
 those asking for or enjoying a pension by reason of having 
 taken part in the Civil War, or being related to somebody that 
 fell in it. Excepting such persons as are enjoying a pension, 
 I have met very few thoughtful Americans that approve the 
 scheme, describing it as a political machine, leading to extra- 
 vagance and jobbery. The building, however, is very hand- 
 some, built in the Eenaissance style, and is notable for the 
 great use made of terra-cotta for cornices, medallions, and a 
 band of sculpture 1,200 ft. in length, representing an army in 
 campaign assisted by sailors and boats in the navy, the effect 
 being very beautiful. The figures are 3 ft. high, and are on 
 the level of the second floor. Once a year a ball is given 
 here by the President, and the vast floor, 400 ft. by 200 ft., is 
 devoted to dancing. The Department of Agriculture contains 
 a museum, library, herbarium (25,000 kinds of plants), green- 
 houses, with beautifully laid out flower gardens. Close by is 
 the Fish Culture Department, with large aquariums ; and ad- 
 joining is the Smithsonian Institution — a gift to the city by 
 James Smithson, an Englishman, for " increase and diffusion 
 of knowledge among men," which was built in 1847. It con- 
 tains metallurgical, ethnological, and mineralogical collections 
 and curiosities, whilst an annexe contains many objects of art 
 and social interest that were exhibited at the Centennial Exhi- 
 bition, 1876, and the donations of Foreign Governments to the 
 United States. Another gift to the nation is the Corcoran Art 
 
BETTER Xn, 
 
 47 
 
 Oallery, which was given to the people by W. W. Corcoran, 
 banker, who also endowed it with 900,000 dollars. It contains 
 about 200 pictures, many of them of great value, and a large 
 quantity of statuary, foremost of which is Power's Greek Slave. 
 The Navy Yard is a place well worthy of a visit, and much 
 first-rate work is turned out ; some gunboats and torpedo boats 
 were in construction, and a good deal of vigour was manifested 
 in the management. 
 
 I could easily go on giving descriptions of places that I in- 
 spected, but let the general impression suffice. Washington is 
 avast city for its present population, under 200,000, but is laid 
 out with a view to its becoming much larger ; it wiU always be 
 a " show *' city, not an industrial one ; it has an air of quietude 
 about it vastly different to the rush and turmoil of New York ; 
 to it will flow the art treasures that wealthy Americans are 
 l)rone to bequeath to the nation, and the hero worship of 
 America's idol, George Washington will preserve it for ever as 
 the centre of the Government and of the influence of the States 
 upon the older nations of Europe. 
 
 No foreigner thinks of coming to this city without paying a 
 visit to Mount Vernon, where are deposited the remains of 
 George Washington. It is about fifteen mUes below the city, on 
 the Virginia side of the Potomac, and is reached by steamers 
 that ply daily. The sail down the river is delightful, and aflbrds 
 excellent views of the country around. The estate was the 
 property of the Washington family for many years, and was 
 inherited by the hero in 1752, and he resided there as much as 
 his warlike career permitted. It is a wood-built mansion, and 
 contains many interesting historical relics, among which is the 
 key of the Bastille presented by General Lafayette, also portions 
 of the military and personal furniture of Washington, with 
 paintings and portraits. The tomb stands in a retired situation 
 near the mansion. It is a plain solid brick structure with an 
 iron gate, through the bars of which can be seen the marble 
 sarcophagi containing the remains of George and Martha 
 Washington, the latter being his wife. The estate was pur- 
 chased from his descendants in 1856, by a ladies' subscription, for 
 200,000 dollars, and by them presented to the nation as a sacred 
 trust. 
 
48 
 
 A TOUB ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 LETTEE XIII. 
 
 New York, July 29^^, 1891. 
 
 There are many seaside resorts in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood of New York some account of which may prove interesting. 
 Of these Long Branch is the most aristocratic, if that word may 
 be applied to a country that poses as a Eepublic. It is 
 . situated on the Atlantic coast of New Jersey, about a two hours* 
 railway journey from this place. Here many of the leaders of 
 fashion have built handsome residences, stretching over a length 
 of foui" miles of coast. This was President Garfield's summer 
 home, and here he died after the assassin's fatal shot that cut 
 him off in the full vigour of life and in the midst of his Presi- 
 dential career. Here, too, the Rothschilds ; the Vanderbilts j G. 
 W. Child, the proprietor of the Public Ledger ; Munro, who has 
 made an immense fortune by publishing ten cent, novels ; 
 Otis, manager of Adams's Express Company ; and many other 
 millionaires have palatial residences in park-like grounds. About 
 sixh'ige hotels, with accommodation for from 500 to 1,000 
 guests each, several clubs, assembly rooms, and splendid drives, 
 make up a most attractive place. Near by are the great 
 Methodist camp-meeting grounds of Ocean Grove and Ashbury 
 Park, which were in full swing when I was there, nearly all the 
 famous names of members of that sect, both male and female, 
 being advertised as speakers. 
 
 Spring Lake, so called from a spring of fresh water forming a 
 large lake, situated within one hun«ired yards of the sea, is 
 another seaside resort, much patronized by Philadelphians, who 
 find, when the sea is too rough, plenty of boating on the lake ; 
 it is within easy reach — some twenty miles — of Long Branch. 
 Elberon, Seabright, Deal, and Highlands, are similar villages, 
 and all connected by one long beautiful beach drive, many miles 
 in length. 
 
 Long Island, which runs for 125 miles parallel more or less 
 to the mainland, is full of similar resorts. The indide towards 
 the land forms the Sound, and it is through that channel that 
 the large passenger steamers for Boston pass so as to avoid the 
 open ocean, and many yachting clubs make it their home. On 
 the outer side, and facing the open sea, the first place one comes 
 
 ( 
 
I 
 
 tBTTEft Xm. 
 
 4d 
 
 1 
 
 to from New Toik is Coney Island, the favourite ^^ace for the 
 lower order of excursionisis. During the seasoit ^i is crowded 
 with visitors, principally in the evening, but more especially on 
 Sundays. Then is the time to see it in all it > gi< >ry ; thousands 
 of people go in for Lathing, others for merry go-rounds, shows 
 of fat women, strong men, three-legged horses, performing dogs, 
 dancing saloons, pistol and rifle galleries, cheap refreshments, 
 and all the " fun of the fair." On a Sunday, when I was induced 
 by a friend to visit this strange sight, I found that in deference 
 to the day, the organs of the merry-go-rounds were grinding 
 out Moody and Sankey tunes, and were "Holding the Fort " 
 with great determination. To those who can remember old 
 Greenwich Fair, this was very like it, only this is held on the 
 sea-shore. 
 
 About a mile along the coast, you come to Brighton Beach, 
 with a very large and comfortable hotel. This hotel has been 
 Removed back from its former position some 500 feet, on account 
 of the inroad of the sea. The removal was an ingenious piece 
 ei work. The building is of wood, and it was underpinned, and 
 twenty railway bogies put und6r on rails prepared for it ; then 
 by using twenty locomotives the hotel was drawn backward 
 until it stood over the foundation prepared for it, the trucks 
 were gradually withdrawn, and at last it rested on a solid base, 
 and all this without business being stopped. Brighton Boach 
 is far more genteel than Coney Island, and has nothing of a 
 " fair " about it. 
 
 Another short ride brings you to Manhattan beach, which is 
 awfully proper, with a large hotel, large concert-room, large 
 accommodation for bathing, and a large amphitheatre for those 
 who do not bathe, but like to look on. Adjoining is the Oriental 
 Hotel, and here the crime de la erime congregate and occupy 
 apartments for weeks together. Eow diflferent the behaviour 
 of the people between the Wept-end, where they are of the 
 'Arry and 'Arriet order, fully enjoying the most boisterous fun, 
 until eleven o'clock drives them to the railway station, on their 
 return home, and at the extreme East where conversatiou is 
 carried on aJmost in a whisper, and to laugh outright would b* 
 considered a deadly sin ! This select body had to be catered for, 
 as to music, with some thought of the sacredness of the day, 
 ^ the programme consisted of a mixture of dance music, 
 Selections from William Tell, selections from the Stabat Mater, 
 and to crown all, Handel's Hallelujal Jhorus. As encores, the 
 band played the various popular airs current in New York. 
 
50 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBB. 
 
 
 Another forty miles alou^ the coast is Roctaway, which is 
 another Coney Island. 
 
 Up the Sound is another resort that is very attractive and 
 successful. It is called Glen Island. It has been purchased 
 by Mr. Starin, who has made a lot of money by his steamers, 
 which trade to all these places, and has been converted by him 
 into a veritable garden of pleasure. Fine refreshment rooms, 
 large concert and dancing saloons, a first-class zoological garden, 
 with a tiger who is a great attraction, having torn off the arm 
 of its keeper, beautiful flower lawns, picnic grounds, imitations 
 of native villages, waterfalls, rustic bridges, two first-rate bands, 
 and seventeen policemen to keep all in order. It is really 
 wonderful what the energy of one man can do, and in this case 
 it is for the benefit of the public. The run to the island and 
 back is only Is. 8d., and the amusements on the island are put 
 down at a very moderate price. The consequence is that his 
 boats and his island are well patronised, and on Sundays 
 crowded. 
 
 Another favourite excursion is that of a run by steamer up 
 the Hudson Eiver. The Americans delight to compare it with 
 the Bhine, and perhaps in natural and physical beauty it is 
 equal. There are the same sort of outlines — hiUs on each side — 
 the river itseK winding very much, so that at times it seems bm 
 if there was no further progress to be made, but a sudden turn 
 and you get a fresh vista, novir beauties, new comparisons. But 
 it lacks the ancient and ruined castles, and the legends that cling 
 to them, and so whilst you can and do admit the charming 
 beauty of the river, a reservation is made in favour of the Khine. 
 It has, howev »•, superior breadth, being at one part four miles 
 wide. The romantic character of the river is maintained, up to 
 Newburg, but the navigation continues as far as Albany, where 
 the trip terminates, and the railroad carries you on to Saratoga, 
 and places beyond. The great prison for New York State — 
 Sing-Sing — is about forty miles up, and presents quite a fine 
 appearance from the steamer's deck, and near by is Irvington, 
 the home of that delightful writer, Washington Irving, whose 
 neat little cottage, Sunnyside, is close to the river's bank, 
 embowered with ivy given to Irving by Sir Walter Scott at 
 Abbotsford, and planted by Irvkig himself . 
 
 About fifty miles from New Y'ork is West Point, where is 
 located the great National Military Academy for the instruction 
 of studeits in the four branches of the service, viz., Engineers, 
 Artillery, Cavalry, and Infantry. It occupies a broad plateaw 
 
LETTER XIII. 
 
 51 
 
 about 175 feet above the river, and is oimilar to our cadet schools 
 at Woolwich or Sandhurst. Each Senator and each Congress- 
 man has a nomination every year to be given to likely young 
 men from the schools in his district, and thus the whole of the 
 United States get a fair share of its advantages. The course of 
 study is for three years, when the students undergo a strict ex- 
 amination as to efficiency in knowledge and health. About 
 two-thirds pass, and are appointed to the army for another 
 period of three years, when they have the option of remaining 
 in the army or of retiring into private life, whilst those who 
 cannot pass go back to their friends, who must find some other 
 employment for them. 
 
 Tbo steamers that perform this service are very large, usually 
 three-deckers, and very similar to those I have described on the 
 Boston route. They can, and do, carry a large number of per- 
 sons, have a band on board each, and contain a handsome 
 dining saloon. The usual thing with passengers is to land at 
 West Point, have three hours ashore, and then return to New 
 York by the down steamer that left Albany at eight in the 
 morning. At various points along the river, ferry steamers cross 
 to opposite villages. Excursion steamers also run to various 
 points on the banks or islands, and thus the scene is 
 ever new and pleasing. Then ^^ain, there is a railroad on 
 each bank, with a succession of trains rapidly passing and re- 
 passing. 
 
 A few mUes above West Point, the Catskill !Kfountains 
 rise grandly, and terrace after terrace of hotels, private resi- 
 dences, a d boarding-houses meet the view. Theso moui. tains 
 are largely resorted to in the summer weather, and afford health 
 £^nd exer< ise to the wearied business man. The \ lews around 
 are of he most enchanting character, consisting of winding 
 paths, waterfalls, deep glens, foaming torrents, and ih< ariouH 
 changes in the atmosphere that go to make th aarm of 
 moun1 ain residence. At Sunset Eock, on the summit of South 
 Mountain, at 3,000 feet above the sea, there is a magnificent 
 view. The principal waterfall takes three leaps in its descent, 
 the first of 180 feet, the second 80, and the third 40 feet, and 
 then by a succession of ledges several feet more. There are 
 many other falls almost as fine, and I can heartily recommend 
 any of my colleagues who think of visiting the States not to 
 omit the Catskills. 
 
 Albany, where the journey by steamer terminates, is a fine 
 city, and is the capital of the State of New York. The new 
 
 £ 2 
 
52 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Capitol when completed, which is not likely to be the case lor 
 several years to come, will be the most expensive, and extensive, 
 of all the seats of the State assemblies. What on earth a com- 
 paratively small town, as compared to New York, can want 
 with so grand a house for its legislators, passes my imagina- 
 tion ; one thing is certain, the population is groaning under a 
 heavy taxation to pay for it, and not a few hints are thrown 
 out that perhaps "jobbery" has something to do with it. The 
 town has a history dating two centuries back, and now has a 
 population of something over 100,000 souls. 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 *i 
 
 i 
 
 
 New York, July SOth^ 1891. 
 
 I TRUST I shall not weary your readers if I attempt to give 
 them my impressions of this great city. As everyone knows, 
 it is built on the island of Manhattan, which is an irregular tri- 
 angle in form, with its apex dipping into the sea. Standing at 
 this point — known as the Battery, but now converted into a 
 park, and a most useful conversion too — with your back to the 
 sea, you see before you the termini of the elevated railroad and 
 of the horsecars, for they all concentrate at this spot. From 
 here starts that world-famed thoroughfare, the Broadway, 
 which runs parallel with the Hudson Eiver the whole length of 
 the island, or nearly ten miles long. On the right-hand side is 
 the East river which divides New York from Long Island, and 
 is about a mile wide. Following this side you reach Harlem, 
 about six miles from the Battery, where the elevated railway 
 and horsecars stop. Taking the left-hand side, the boundary is 
 the Hudson River, and the avenue on that side ^uns for nearly 
 sixteen mUes, and ends at the village of Neperan where Spuyten 
 Duyvel creek joins with the Harlem river, and thus makes the 
 Island of Manhattan. For nearly two miles from the Battery, 
 the streets are poor in character and very intricite, and have 
 special names, thus : Canal-street, Houston-street, Franklin- 
 street, etc., and that part represents the old town ; vhen the new 
 
 1 
 
LETTER XIY, 
 
 53 
 
 begins and you find straight avenues before you, numbered 
 from 1 to 1 1 , with Madison-avenue and Lexington-avenue thrown 
 in. Then the cross streets are numbered, beginning with First- 
 street running from river to river, until they reach 125th- 
 street at Harlem, and 159th-street at Fort Washington. Here, 
 where the new town begins, is located the City HaU, built of 
 white marble, and opposite, but with a small garden between, 
 is the Post OflRce, both buildings being of immense size. To 
 the right of these is Printing House Square, where all the great 
 papers have their offices, lofty structures of from eleven to fifteen 
 storeys high ; the New York IVorld has the latter number, and with 
 its gilded dome is quite a landmark wherever you go. The Sun^ 
 Morning Journal^ Tribune^ Herald^ Globe^ Press, and others are to 
 be found here, and day and night this part is always full of 
 traffic. The first, second, and third avenues on the East river 
 side pass through a poor district, and so do the ninth, tenth, 
 and eleventh on the Hudson river side. This state of things 
 seems to apply to all cities alike that have a water-side. It is 
 here that the poorer classes congregate. After passing the City 
 Hall, Broadway puts on its best style, and right up to Madison- 
 square the immense stores add beauty to the road and great 
 vigour to business life. In the vicinity of Union-square and 
 Madison-square, the most celebrated hotels, restaurants, and 
 theatres are to be found. The Hoffinan House, and the Fifth 
 Avenue Hotel form one side of Madison-square, and near by is 
 that luxurious restaurant, Delmonico's, that no one visiting New 
 York should miss, for, although he has four other establish- 
 ments carried on upon the same system, yet this one is the one. 
 New York is well supplied with tho opportunities of refresh- 
 ing the inner man, and of hotels their name is legion. And any 
 attempt to describe, aye, even to name the stores, where every- 
 thing can be bought, would be as futile as tedious, and though 
 I visited several, I was a good deal mystified with the arrange- 
 ments. It seems to me that they are simply crushing out the 
 poor tradesman, who is being driven further and further into 
 the background. Proceeding northwards, soon after passing 
 Madison-square the best residential part of New York is 
 reached, the Fifth-avenue being pre-eminent for the wealth of 
 the inhabitants. The house formerly the residence of Mr. 
 Stewart, the millionaire, whose body was stolen from the grave, 
 is now the Manhattan Club ; the Vanderbilts have three grand 
 houses, and other rich folk here display their wealth. 
 One of the best features of New York id the large Central Park, 
 
54 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 ft: 
 
 containing 843 acres, which lies between the Fifth and Eighth 
 Avenues. There are ten miles of carriage roads, and thirty miles 
 of footpaths ; it contains five lakes, several museums, and by 
 engineering skill has been transformed into a beautiful recrea- 
 tion ground. There are many splendid churches in New York ; 
 Gracechurch, and Holy Trinity on Broadway, and the cathedral 
 of St. Patrick on Fifth Avenue being the most remarkable. 
 
 I am giving but a mere outline of what there is to be seen in 
 the city, and do not profess to be writing a guide book ; but I 
 must not omit o le grand feature, the splendid drive along the 
 north river bank, from about Fifty-seventh-street right up to the 
 Spuyten Duyvel creek (or iSpitting Devil), following the undula- 
 tions of the bank right to Riverside Park, the temporary grave 
 of General Grant, which is on a high bluflf, in a grove of trees. 
 Close by his tomb the ground is marked out for the permanent 
 mausoleum, but not a single stone is laid at present, although 
 there was a grand function nearly a year ago when the first 
 sod was turned. Close at hand is the fashionable Claremont 
 Hotel, where we put up to refresh both man and beast, and en- 
 joy a smoke after at the edge of th<i bluff. Looking up the 
 Hudson Eiver, and admiring the scenery, it seemed a fitting 
 resting-place for the departed hero who had been twice elected to 
 the Presidential chair. 
 
 We have been taking a ^ort of bird's-eye view of New York 
 from the Battery. Now let ;is turn and face the sea, so as to 
 embrace the harbour. Right before us, a little to the right, is 
 Bedloe's Island, about two miles oflp. It is a fort with many 
 heavy guns, but better knowr as the site of the colossal statue 
 of Liberty which was presented by the French nation to New 
 York, four or five years ago. The granite foundation is about 
 eighty feet high, and the statue itself about as much more, audit 
 also serves as a lighthouse, the uplifted torch in the right hand 
 being lighted at night by electricity with a row of similar lights 
 around the feet. Steamers go off every hour, and the passengers 
 are permitted to ascend the statue as far as the head ; so one can 
 get a trip on the briny, ascend the statue, and get aches and 
 pains in every limb by the exertion, and all for the small sum of 
 one shilling. Looking a little more to the right, is Ellis's Island, 
 another strong fort, and turning to the left is Governor Island, 
 with the largest battery in the harbour. Still more to the 
 left, and at Long Island Point, is Fort Hamilton, very heavily 
 armed, and a mUe from the shore is Fort Lafayette. AU these 
 lorts are so arranged as to maintain a cross fire, and doubtless 
 
LETTER XIV. 
 
 55 
 
 f 
 
 would be very formidable to a hostile fleet. Straight before us 
 is Stateu Island, devoted to pleasure and private residences. 
 Now, looking to the extreme right, is the coast of New Jersey, 
 the boundary of the North or Hudson River — for it is known 
 by both names — and we can trace the outline of Hoboken and 
 Jersey City, the former the place of departure for several of the 
 foreign lines of steamers to Europe, and vlift latter the depot of 
 the Pennsylvania railroad for PhUadelphia and the south. This 
 coast line continues on to the eastward until far on our left-hand, 
 where it terminates at the point known as Sandy Hook, which 
 is the entrance to New York Harbour, the opposite side being 
 Long Island on the extreme left, with the lighthouse on Fire 
 Island to denote the channel. This huge bay or harbour is as fine 
 as oan be seen anywhere that I know of, and certainly it could 
 contain all the navies of the world, "as the saying is." As the 
 difference between high water and low water is but four feet, 
 there is no necessity for constructing deep water docks such as 
 we are obliged to use in our country, so ships anchor in the bay 
 until their turn comes to proceed to the wharf. At the foot of 
 nearly every street on both sides of New York, wharves are 
 run out, and vessels are moored alongside with their heads 
 pointing to the street. Thus at the foot of Forty- sixth- 
 streat. North River, is the White Star Line ; Forty-second-street, 
 CuEard Line, and so on. The inhabitants are well provided with 
 means of crossing either to New Jersey on the one side, or 
 Brooklyn on the other, by means of ferries, great paddle-wheel 
 steamers carrying passengers, vehicles, anything that offers, at 
 intervals of five minutes from each side, the traffic being 
 enormous, and I am told very remunerative. Five cents (2id.) 
 d^wn to two cents is the price for a passenger, and the Fulton 
 Ferry, mindful of the needs of the working classes, charge only 
 cne cent, between the hours of 8 and 10 in the morning, and 5 
 and 7 in the afternoon, but then see how they are crowded ! 
 
 Talking of fares reminds me that the horse-cars and elevated 
 railroads have but one price, five cents, and for that sum you 
 travel as much or as little as you please — half a mile or eleven 
 miles. These elevated railroads, while a great boon to the 
 travelling public, must be a great nuisance to the occupiers of 
 the houses along the route. Fancy any of our leading thorough- 
 fares being invaded by one, the construction being as follows : 
 At a distance of thirty feet apart, a mass of girders rise from the 
 edge of the pavement ; these support on the top cross girders, 
 which are laced together by longitudinal bars ; these carry other 
 
56 
 
 A TOUR EOUIO) THE GLOBE. 
 
 crosB girders, and these in torn the rails on which the trains 
 pass, generally about the height of the seconid floor. The whole 
 structure looks like a skeleton railway, yet along it rush at in- 
 terrals of three minutes a small locomotive and three carriages, 
 stopping at very frequent intervals. Access to the stations is 
 gained by a staircase from the pavement. There is no beauty 
 in the construction ; it spoils the look of the streets where they 
 Tun ; it arouses the bile of the shopkeepers, to say nothing of 
 those nervous people who dread noise and din ; and it is only 
 useful to those who wish to get from one part of the city to 
 another in quick time. And so it comes to pass that, though 
 generally execrated, they are very much patronised. And now 
 they are established, the New Yorkers say they don't know how 
 they managed without them, and certainly it has relieved the 
 streets to a large extent. But, please, sir, don't bring them to 
 London ! 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 Brooklyn N.Y., July Z\st. 1891. ^ 
 
 Brooklyn was my head-quarters for six weeks, where I was 
 entertained at the charming home of my friends the Hon "W. 
 B. Davenport and his wife. He holds the important position of 
 Administrator of King's County, which includes all Brooklyn 
 and the outlying towns on Long Island, and the duty of hi» 
 office is to take charge of the estates of all intestate persons, and 
 to see that the same are properly distributed to the right parties. 
 A curious case came under my notice whilst I was there. A 
 man died somewhat suddenly at an hotel in Brooklyn, being 
 possessed of over three millions of dollars invested in various 
 businesses, unmarried, and having no nearer relations than 
 three old aunts who scarcely knew him, and three others still 
 more distant as to kin, who were scarcely aware of his existence. 
 Here was a chance for a speculator ! A poor but dishonest 
 attorney conceived the idea that if he could find a widow for the 
 deceased these old folks would readily compromise rather than 
 
 
LETTER zr. 
 
 » 
 
 r 
 
 / 
 
 fight the casd in court. So a woman was found, rigged out as 
 a widow, had good jewellery given her, was coached uj* in all 
 the matters that a widow would know : his habits, whore he 
 lived, the history of his life, and all that sort of thing. When 
 she was sufficiently educated, application was made on her 
 behalf to be admitted to a share of the property, or, at least, to 
 a widow's dowry; but, lack-a-day, somebody recognized the 
 trembling widow as a " soiled dove " of New York ; detectives 
 were put on to watch all the movements of the pair, and when 
 the proofs were perfect they were both locked up. Eesult : the 
 attorney got bail, 7,500 doh. : bolted, bail estreated, and the 
 woman was placed in the Penitentiary. A less shrewd man 
 than my friend Davenport might have been taken in. My 
 friendship with him began by my meeting him on the steamer 
 SiriuSf going to the North Cape, Norway ; we found that we had 
 a mutual friend in Brooklyn, and so a bond of union existed 
 that has ripened into the strongest friendship. 
 
 Brooklyn extends along the East Eiver nearly all the length 
 of New York to Harlem, and there begins a fresh municipality 
 called Long Island City. Brooklyn is by far the largest, and it 
 has what New York has not — room to expand. Americans 
 have a desire to be first in everything, and they do not like the 
 idea that such a small country as England has so large a city as 
 London ; and the notion is being broached, is gaining ground, 
 aye, even among politicians, that if New York, Brooklyn, 
 Coney Island district, Long Island City, and a few more town- 
 ships thrown in were imder the control of one Corporation, one 
 mayor, one set of officials, and all to be called New York, they 
 would almost rival London in size at once, and by the next 
 census would out-top us. What a shriek of cock-a-doodle-do 
 would ensue ! It is argued that their pursuits are alike, that 
 the traffic across the river is immense, and that the means of 
 oommunication would be greatly improved if the whole were 
 under one government. The present means of crossing the 
 river is by ferries, and, as I said in a previous letter, I never 
 saw such a place for ferries. From the foot of every second or 
 third street, a ferry runs to the opposite side every five minutes, 
 but the principal mode of crossing is by the high level Brooklyn 
 Bridge, one of the wonders of the world. It is a suspension 
 bridge, and the footpath is 135 feet above high water level, and 
 the whole length about 5,990 feet. The towers rise to 278 feet, 
 the centre span between the two towers 1,600 feet, and the 
 i^ore spans about 800 feet each. The bridge is wide enougk 
 
« 
 
 A TOUE ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 for two lines of vehicles-— a fast and a slow — on the outside of 
 each side ; then a lino of cable cars on either side, and a broad 
 pathway for foot-passengers in the middle, the total width being 
 85 feet. Persons on foot pass free ; those who use the cable 
 cars pay three cents, IJd. ; and there is a fee of five cents for 
 each horse drawing a vehicle. The whole is lighted with 
 electricity, and the traffic across it is enormous. The cable 
 being endless there can be no possibility of a collision with the 
 cars, as they must move with th( cable in the shape of a long 0. 
 I was permitted to inspect all the machinery for keeping the 
 thing going night and day for winding the cable and lighting. 
 There is a duplicate set of machinery for each, so that if one 
 failed the system could be at once transferred to the other, and 
 that without much loss of time. So successful and useful has 
 this bridge proved, that there is talk of building another, two 
 miles up the Sound. The plans of a similar one to cross the 
 Hudson just above where the ocean steamers moor have been 
 approved, and the money has been voted, and next October will 
 see the commencement of the work. It will combine an ordinary 
 railway bridge to connect the system of railways on both sides 
 of the river. 
 
 In every respect Brooklyn seems to be a slice of New York ; 
 the rush and hurry of business is peculiar to both ; you must 
 run with the stream either coming or going, or if you loiter you 
 will be run down, crushed, walked over, and forgotten. It was 
 the scene of the life and labours of the Eev. Ward Beecher, 
 and it was my good fortune to be present at the unveiling of 
 his statue, situated in front of the City Hall. It represents 
 him standing bare-headed, with face uplifted, the left hand 
 holding his soft felt hat, the right hand hidden in the folds of 
 an Inverness cape thrown back off the chest, the shackles of a 
 slave at his feet, a slave woman kneeling against the pedestal on 
 the right hand, clutching his feet, and on the opposite side two 
 slave children raising their hands in gratitude for his efforts to 
 abolish slavery. He was the apostle of freedom for the 
 slave, and to his speeches much of the success of the movement 
 is due. Ministers of all denominations assembled to do him 
 honour in conjuction with the civic authorities, and the Chief 
 Rabbi of New York pronounced the benediction. Nearly 2,000 
 school children sang some of his favourite hymns and tunes, 
 aided by the band of the 13th Regiment. An enormous crowd 
 assembled; every window, and even the housetops, were 
 crowded. It was estimated that more than 10,000 persons 
 
 ': 
 
LETTER XV. 
 
 1^ 
 
 ' 
 
 braved the sun — it was bo hot — for two hours to show reverence 
 for one so greatly beloved. 
 
 I was rather surprised to hear that our tune of " God save 
 the Queen " has been coolly appropriated by our brethren, who 
 have renamed it "America," and it is now considered tht 
 National Anthem of the United States. The words run thus : — 
 
 "My countiy! 'tis of thee, 
 Sweet land of liberty, 
 
 Of thee I sing: 
 Land where mj fathers died! 
 Land of the pdgiims* pride I 
 From every mountain side 
 
 Let freedom ring ! • f 
 
 Our fathers* God! to Thee, 
 Author of liberty, 
 
 To Thee we sing: * 
 
 Long may our land be bright, 
 With Freedom's holy light; 
 Protect us by Thy might, 
 
 Great God, our King." 
 
 I remarked to a gentleman who was singing this at the top of 
 his voice, that the tune, at all events, was stolen from us. At 
 first he declined to believe me, but an American lady put her 
 spoke in, and said I was right, and she had often heard it in 
 the " Old Country," and she wondered why her people made use 
 of it. So he was snuffed out. 
 
 On the Sunday after, I attended Plymouth Chui-ch, where 
 Beecher so long ministered. I was surprised at its comparative 
 smallness and the more than plain exterior. I saw and spoke 
 to the aged widow, who seemed pleased that an Englishman 
 took notice of her. It appeared to me that the Church has 
 selected a most capable successor in the person of Dr. Lyman 
 Abbott, whose sermon was full of devout thought, and, whilst 
 excellent from a literary point of view, went straight home. In 
 the evening I went to Dr. Talmage's huge new tabernacle, 
 capable of holding over 6,000 people, and it was crowded to 
 excess. But how different the tone of worship ! Here every- 
 thing was done to increase dramatic effect ; in fact, the building 
 is much like a playhouse. It is an immense semi-circle, with a 
 large gaUery round the circular part ; the flat side between the 
 ends of the gallery is occupied by a very large organ, and below 
 that a long platform, provided with a small table and chair and 
 several stands of flowers. On this platform whilst the Doctor 
 
•• 
 
 A TOUR BOUND THZ GLOBE. 
 
 " 
 
 is preaching he stalks from end to end, attitudinising according 
 as his subject suggests to him. On this occasion his text was, 
 ** Hath the rain a father ? '' from Job. Upon these words he 
 built up a kind of scolding sermon because people had wickedly 
 found fault with the weather of the past week — there had been 
 « spell of extreme heat, a violent storm of lightning, thunder, 
 and hail, followed by rather cold and damp days and chilly 
 nights, as if the Almighty was not able to care for, or do the 
 best for the universe ! An allusion he made as to promoting a 
 Joint Stock Company to take charge of the weather, with one 
 million capital, president, secretary, directors, etc., produced a 
 regular titter through the audience, as did many other of his 
 comic remarks. To me it seemed verily like Punch in the 
 pulpit, but it appeared to suit the taste of his following. At 
 the close of the service, he announced that the church would be 
 closed for two months, as most of his hearers would be dispersed 
 for their annual holidays. This is a great feature in America : 
 churches, theatres, museums, and the like, close their doors for 
 two months, as though there were no souls to be saved, or 
 bodies to be instructed or amused. 
 
 Brooklyn has a noble park to boast of — Prospect Park, 550 
 acres in extent ; it is situated on an elevated ridge, and com- 
 mands fine views of the two cities, the inner and outer harbour, 
 Long Island, and the opposite coast of New Jersey. Its 
 combination of broad meadows, grassy slopes, and wooded hills, 
 have been skilfully improved by the landscape gardening ; it 
 has eight miles of drives, and eleven miles of walks. Near by 
 is Greenwood Cemetery, also situated on heights replete with 
 natural beauties, and made more so by the skill of those who 
 laid it out. It is 500 acres in extent, and contains a surprising 
 number of beautiful monuments. On the top of a hill, near the 
 entrance, is the tomb of Mr. Beecher. Many travellers assert 
 that it is the most beautiful cemetery in the world, and 
 Americans say it is the finest in the States. I will only add 
 that it is highly favoured by nature and art. The favourite 
 drive is by way of Prospect Park, the cemetery, the Ocean 
 Parkway — a splendid boulevard 200 feet wide — extending to 
 Coney Island, and home by way of Bay Bidge and Fort 
 Hamilton, giving a variety of grand views in every direction. 
 Washington Park, in the heart of the city, contains 30 acres, 
 and is of historic interest as being the site of the last stand 
 made by Washington against the British army when he wa» 
 driyen put of JiOiig Island. It was then known as Fort Qxeen.e^ 
 
 ^< 
 
LBTTBB XT. 
 
 ai' 
 
 The principal naval station of the States is situated here, and 
 is a very large establishment, something like Portsmouth. 
 Foundries, workshops, end storehouses, dry docks, building 
 slips, stores of guns and ammunition are ull here. By the 
 kindness of the officer in command. Captain Kane, I was 
 permitted to go over it; in fact, he himself was my guide, 
 confidant, and friend. I went on board the ironclad cruiser 
 Maine^ which had only a few weeks before been launched, 
 and is far from being finished, but is a powerful addition to the 
 United States navy. I saw the wonderful use made of 
 electricity on board a monitor in course of construction. It 
 was conveyed a long distance from the shed where it was 
 generated by means of an insulated wire to a small drilling 
 machine, and there it was drilling holes in armour plates, four 
 inches thick, with a rapidity that was marvellous. The visit 
 gave me the greatest pleasure, and I learned more in a few 
 hours from Captain Kane than I should by myself in as many 
 days. 
 
 It was my good fortune to see the White Squadron, consist- 
 ing of six vessels lying in the North Eiver, where they had 
 arrived from Boston during the night, get up steam and pass 
 round by the Battery to the East River on the way to the 
 3ound. They presented a very pretty sight and kept rank very 
 nicely ; but, while they could do a deal of fighting, they seemed 
 small to me when compared to the monsters of our fleet that 
 assembled recently at Osborne. Let us hope that the two nations 
 may pursue such a brotherly career as not to have to try the 
 strength of one against the other. 
 
r^ 
 
 mim 
 
 ! 
 
 6^ 
 
 A TOUB EOTJND THB GLOBE. 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 Atlantic Ocean, on Board the Teutmic. 
 
 August Srd, 1891. 
 
 This is Bank Holiday, and we are more than half-way across 
 the Atlantic, so I am out of the fun and frolic of the time ; but 
 I sincerely hope, for the sake of the thoufjands of excursionists 
 who have been looking forward to this day for many weeks 
 past, that the weather in England is as fine as we are enjoying 
 at the present moment. 
 
 I am engaged looking over my note-book to see if anything 
 has escaped me in my previous letters, and there are some few 
 points of interest that I think worth recording. Having served 
 fourteen years on the Markets Committee, it was but natural 
 that in my visits to the civic authorities I made markets the 
 subject of conversation. Thus, when I visited the City HaU, 
 New York, although the Mayor was absent on a holiday, I w'S 
 warmly received by Mr. Alderman Morgan, and shown over the 
 building, where are kept several relics of Washingt(»n — his 
 dining table, writing table, and other articles of furnit ire. I 
 broached the matter of markets, and learned that the buildings 
 of the markets are the property of tho Corporation, who let the 
 shops on rental. Order is preserved by the ordinary police, 
 and officers are appointed to prevent unwholesome food being 
 sold ; but tolls, as we understand them, are unknown in the 
 States. The rents are high enough to realize all the profit 
 needed. The markets are a mixture of wholesale and retail, 
 and all are ''general," all sorts of commodities being sold in 
 every one of them. 
 
 While 1 was talking with the Alderman, a ckrk whispered 
 something about performing the service, and all Doing ready, 
 when he turned to me and said : ** Do you want to be married ? 
 If 80 come along, and I can do the job for you." I was ready 
 to see the ceremony, so accompanie'^ him into a large room, 
 three sides of which w ere occupied t^'^ men and women, whil« 
 the other side was railed off with several desks, at which we 
 gat. Then a man and woman were called to the desk, th« 
 
LETTER XVI. 
 
 63 
 
 Alderman put the question as to their desire to be married, 
 warned all present that now was the time to declare any 
 impediment to the marriage or ever after hold their peace, and 
 made the man and woman repeat after him the promise to be true 
 and faithful to each other. The ring was put on, and the Alder- 
 man pronouQced them man and wife, and shook hands with each. 
 It was a short and simple ceremony, containing the essence of 
 our prayer-book service, without any allusion to the Almighty, 
 or religious ideas. Three couples were thus united, the 
 witnesses being the clerk and the police officer. It was in that 
 eame room that the Duke of Marlborough was married, with the 
 same simplicity, not very long ago. Mr. Alderman Morgan did 
 it to perfection, going through it all without hesitation and with 
 great dignity ; he is said to be the best of all the bench, and 
 the people like him to marry them. After the ceremony, wo 
 retired for refreshment, going to Stewart's Saloon in Warren 
 Street. I mention this because a singular custom attached to 
 the house. Mr. Stewart decided, when he commenced business 
 in 1878, to set aside all the takings on December 24th, and 
 divide it as a bonus between his employes, according to their 
 rank, length of service, an*' kind of work. In the year named, 
 tho sum taken was £237, and it has steadily increased, year by 
 year, until in 1890 it rose to £2,606! Mr. Stewart died three 
 years since, and left the management to three of his chief men, 
 to carry on the business in the same style, and especiallj'^ to 
 allot the takings of December 24th to the bonus. I am told on 
 that day the house is crowded from morn till night, the puolic 
 doing their best to swell the bonus. 
 
 In a conversation with the Mayor of Brooklyn, I found the 
 market arrangements there very much the same as in New 
 York. The fabric, being the property of the Corporation, was 
 let as shops on rr utal, and after that it seemed that they had no 
 committee to superintend matters ; it was merely a collecting of 
 the rents. The abattoirs are mostly in the hands of private firms, 
 notably Eastman's, on the north river, foot of sixty-first Street. 
 It is a huge establ shment, where many hundreds of cattle are 
 slaughtered every day, partly for use in New York, and a large 
 portion for shipment in a frozen state to England. I went over 
 the premises, and found them perfect in every respect. The 
 refrigeration was produced by means of De la Vergne's 
 ammonia process, which is simple, cheap, effective, and, in the 
 States, driving the cold-air system out of existence. Mr. 
 Eastman told me that, having used both systems largely, h« 
 
m 
 
 ¥y'''**rte*M?™H55 
 
 64 
 
 A TOTTR HOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 nl 
 
 i; 
 
 felt bound to declare that the superiority of ammonia was un- 
 questionable. 
 
 I could not but admire the style and dress of the police force. 
 They wear a light blue coat with brass buttons, white collars 
 and waistbands, white gloves, and really seem to be picked 
 men, and very gentlemanly. They are obliging to a degree and 
 well-informed, able to answer an inquiry with intelligence, and 
 at crowded thoroughfares stop the traffic for ladies to pass. 
 The system seems to be for one officer to have a short beat, so 
 he is generally handy. If he takes anybody into custody he 
 has a lock-up box, into which he puts his prisoner, telegraphs 
 for the patrol waggon, which drives up, takes charge of the 
 prisoner, and the policeman is not taken off his beat. He 
 usually carries his staff in his hand, or suspended from the 
 wrist, to denote that he is on duty. A neat hat of grey felt, 
 something between a helmet and ordinary bowler, a breast 
 pocket with a white handkerchief peeping out, give him a 
 distinguished appearance. 
 
 I found the Americans to possess a most hospitable character, 
 and a friendliness for Englishmen that I scarcely expected to 
 find. With anything like an introduction, I was at once put at 
 my ease — open house, perfect freedom, and a desire to increase 
 my happiness, in every sense of the word, was what I met on 
 every hand. Thus I became, for the time being, a member 
 of the Coney Island Jockey Club, the Larchmont Yacht Club, 
 the Manhattan Club in New York (the foremost of the Demo- 
 cratic Clubs), and of the Hamilton and Brooklyn Clubs of 
 Brooklyn. Into any of these I could stroll, and meet the lead- 
 ing men of both cities, sometimes having a chat with a railroad 
 magnate, a senator, principal judges and attorneys, or hob- 
 nobbing with the mayors and aldermen. And if a certain 
 brusquenoss is observable, it is so tempered with good nature 
 and a comical grace, that one begins, after a time, to like and 
 fall into it. 
 
 I was often surprised to see large numbers of newspapers 
 piled up on the top of a letter box ; either the box was full, or 
 the slit too small to admit the paper, and so they were left 
 exposed on the top. A notice was on every post-box that the 
 authorities could not be responsible for the loss of such papers ; 
 but I was told that such a thing as one being stolen was un- 
 h(Bard of. I scarcely think it would be so safe in this country. 
 
 The Americans are far ahead of us in the use of means to 
 save time and labour. Thus, nearly every house of any preten- 
 
> 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 6.5 
 
 < 
 
 sions lias the telephone, by means of which the housewife can do 
 a good deal of shopping, can order a carriage from livery stables, 
 and make sure that it will be at the door at the hour named. 
 And it is a common thing in America to hire, for a stated sum 
 per month, any class of vehicle you may want from the livery 
 stables, rather than keep a horse, and man to take charge of it, 
 and then often find, w^hen it is most needed, that something has 
 happened to horse or man, and you cannot use it. It very much 
 lightens the work for the mistress of the house thus to be able 
 to communicate with friends or tradesmen. Then comes into 
 play another Company, which coml)ines four things in connexion 
 with electricity : An instrument is placed in your house, and 
 you press the first button. In less than ten minutes a boy in 
 uniform comes to your house to do anything you wish, either 
 carry a letter or parcel, or simply deliver a message. Press 
 Button No. 2, and it is an intimation that the police are wanted, 
 either to eject a disagreeable visitor, or arrest a burglar. Button 
 No. 3 informs your doctor that he is wanted at once at your 
 house, his address having been registered with the Company ; 
 and No 4 button calls the firemen to your assistance. And 
 all this security for one dollar per month subscription, and 
 the payment of the messenger at a trifling sum by the hour. 
 Then, at the time of the summer vacation, it is the practice to 
 give servants a holiday, too, and leave the house empty ; storm 
 boards enclose the street door, electric wires are attached to 
 every window and door in the house, so that at the least attempt 
 to open either, the electric wires at once inform the nearest 
 police station that something is wrong, and a constable hastens 
 off to see what the trouble is. This plan is found to be safer 
 than to leave a servant in charge, who may be tempted to leave 
 the house unguarded, or even to let in dishonest persons. 
 
 August Gth. — My vovage in the s.s. 'TeiUoni c^xiis not werj event- 
 ful. We made a fair average x^assage, leaving New York at 
 half-past twelve p.m., July 29th, and were abreast the landing 
 stage at Liverpool at half -past twelve p.m., August 5th, exactly 
 seven days from shore to shore. There was the usual rolling, 
 with occasional showers, some line weather, and a few st ff gales. 
 On Tuesday, August 4th, we encountered a white s juall in the 
 afternoon, and our two jibsails were torn into ribbons, with a 
 noise like the report of a cannon, and it was with difficulty that 
 the torn sails were secured. Perhaps the most beautiful sight 
 was on the Sunday night, when the planet Jupiter shone out, 
 and made a trail of light over the waves with 'almost as much 
 
! I 
 
 66 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 brightness as the moon. All were agreed that they had never 
 seen a single star shine with such brilliancy. 
 
 Permit me, in conclusion, to thank my constituents of the 
 Tower Ward, and my colleagues of the Common Council, for 
 their forbearance in permitting me to remain so long from my 
 post. I left in poor health ; I have returned in renewed strength 
 and vigoui' ; and, in my judgment, there is nothing so recupera- 
 tive as a long sea voyage. 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 : i 
 
 !i 
 
 ■f: 
 
 London, October j 1891. 
 
 In looking over my note book, and referring to letters I have 
 sent to private friends, some items of interest occur which I 
 had not inserted in those I sent to the City Press. Thus, in the 
 Gulf of Suez, a canard was started that we should see, soon 
 after entering into Ihe Red Sea, the place marked : — " This is 
 the spot where the Israelites passed on dry land through the 
 Eed Sea, which the pursuing army of Egyptians trying to do 
 was overwhelmed in the flood." Of course many eyes were 
 strained to see this remarkable notice ; telescopes were brought 
 out, but nought could be seen, till at last it was found to be a 
 mean attempt at hoaxing. 
 
 When at Cairo, the news arrived of a serious skirmish 
 between the Egyptian troops and the rebellious Arabs in the 
 Soudan, when two British officers were killed. We, therefore, 
 took some interest in looking out for Assouan and the fleet lying 
 there ; but we passed it during the night, and so we did not 
 see anything connected with the War in the Soudan. There 
 was one place that we hoped to have a view of, and is often 
 seen when sailing in the Red Sea — Mount Sinai — from whence 
 the Mosaic Law was delivered. It is a long distance inland, 
 but on this occasion a dense mist, or fog, hung over the place, 
 and prevented our having even a glimpse of it ; and yet we 
 could see a long distance of barren sand on the Arabian coast. 
 We passed the island of Perim in daylight, and saluted the 
 
 !► 
 
u 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 67 
 
 English flag. It was formerly a desert island, and it was 
 frequently spoken of in Parliament as a fit and proper place to 
 occupy by our troops, so as to have a naval station to dominate 
 the Suez Canal. It must be a dreary spot for officers and men 
 to live in ; the weather, as a rule being fearfully hot, and the 
 island very small, lying about two days' steaming fi'om Suez, 
 and a day from Aden. 
 
 Two tales anent this spot may be amusing, and I will tell 
 them as they were told by military officers in our smoke room : 
 I do not vouch for their absolute truth. The first had to 
 do with its occupation, it being then a desert. A German man- 
 of-war put into Aden, and of course saluted and entered into 
 friendly relations with our Admiral. In the course of a dinner 
 given by the German, our Admiral casually asked what object 
 he had in going to the Red Sea ? In strict secrecy, the German 
 said he was sent out to occupy Perim, and hoist the German 
 flag there. "Oh," says our Admiral, " is that so ? Well, you will 
 permit me to return the compliment, and come and dine with 
 me to morrow ; plenty of time, you know." " With pleasure " ; 
 and so a nice little party was arranged for the morrow. In 
 the meantime, the Admiral started off his steam launch, with a 
 lot of blue jackets and marines, to hasten to Perim, erect a 
 small shanty, and run up the English flag, and remain in occu- 
 pation until he relieved them. This was done. The festivities 
 came off, and the German sailed for Perim. " Holloa ! there is 
 some mistake here ! Is this Perim ? Must be ; but the British 
 flag flying ! The deuce ! " And that was how the occupation 
 of Perim was forced upon us. 
 
 Tale No. 2. — As I said before, it is a fearful place to live in, 
 and so it comes about that it is difficult to get officers to stay 
 there very long. One day an officer actually begged for the 
 appointment, and he was looked upon as a curious specimen of 
 a contented mind. It was given him, and year after year he 
 never grumbled, but stuck to it manfully. It was suggested 
 that he might have leave of absence. No, he did not want it. 
 At last, a visit was ordered to inspect matters, when it was 
 found that he had scarcely ever lived there ; had explained to 
 his men that he was going on furlough ; signed sufficient 
 documents to keep the reports going when filled up by his 
 orderly ; and so that bubble burst. I simply tell it as it was 
 told to us, and do not vouch for the truth. 
 
 Cricket was often played on our deck, as well as it can be 
 carried out on board ship. Our promenade deck was netted all 
 
i\ 
 
 n 
 
 u > 
 
 ^*-i-! 
 
 68 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 along ; a roll of cocoa-mit matting laid down ; tlie stumps 
 inserted in a frame, so that if struck all came down together. 
 It was good exercise, but poor cricket. Several of our 
 IDassengers put M.C.C. after their names ; and, after practising 
 a little they arranged to give a challenge to the Colombo C.C., 
 which was readily accepted. It came off, but the Empress' 
 X^eople were beaten. This did not dismay them, so they 
 telegraphed to Singapore to play there. Now, that happens to 
 be a very strong club, and they selected their eleven best men. 
 The ground was in excellent order, the day exceedingly hot, 
 and it seemed almost the height of folly to think of playing ; 
 but they did, and again we were beaten, but not discreditably, 
 seeing ours was a scratch crew. Our people tried it again in 
 Hong Kong, this time a two days' match. I saw one very 
 funny thing when our people were fielding. The best player on 
 the other side, when he had scored about thirty-seven, gave a 
 lovely catch, so easy ! Our captain ran for it, so did 
 another ; both thought the other had made sure of it, so both 
 dropped their hands and the ball fell between them. That 
 batsman took out his bat, after scoring one hundred and fifty- 
 eight, and again our side lost ; but they showed plenty of 
 j)luck. The papers were full of the game at each port, and we 
 got a full share of compliments and festivities. 
 
 In Hong Kong I saw a very funny incident. A large portion 
 of the police are Sikh soldiers, and they are much disliked by 
 the Chinese coolies, as they are much more severe than English 
 police. These coolies are chair-bearers, or 'ricksha men, and 
 they rush upon you unawares, as soon as you make your 
 appearance, and thus break the police regulations. One 'ricksha 
 man was over daring, when a Sikh soldier seized him by his 
 long pigtail, got into the 'ricksha, and made the poor rascal 
 drag him to the police-station, and there gave him in charge. 
 
 The following incident took place : — One of our passengers 
 went to Canton, and on his return to Hong Kong found he had 
 left his pocket-book under the pillow in his state-room he had 
 occupied the night before. He rushed back to the steamer, and 
 found all the berths made up, and the bedding taken away. 
 He asked for his purse. John Chinaman said he had not seen 
 it, and knew nothing of it, so he appealed to the captain, who 
 advised him to see the police. This he did, and the inspector, a 
 Scotchman, said he would get it somehow or other ; and it was 
 generally understood on board that the steward who made 
 up the bed was in prison. The gentleman who had lost 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 69 
 
 it had made arrangements to go to Japan by an earlier 
 steamer than ours, and left under the idea that he had lost 
 £100 in bank-notes. After he had left for Japan, his room- 
 companion found the pocket-book in the Empress of India, every- 
 thing right ; it had never been taken to Canton, and it was 
 given in charge to the purser. The evening it '^, as found we 
 were having a grand concert, and while that was going on, a 
 passenger I was very friendly with heard of it, and felt so acutely 
 for the poor Chinese languishing in jail, that he begged our 
 captain and the purser to send ashore to release him. " Oh," 
 said they, " it's only a John Chiuaman ; the morning will do ; 
 it won't hurt him, and they are used to it." But friend Hodge 
 could not rest ; he called a boat, went ashore to the police- 
 office at midnight, and got the poor fellow released. He told 
 me he could not have it upon his conscience to allow him to be 
 in prison after he knew of his innocence. Good old Hodge ! 
 The present heavy rains remind me how much we depend upon 
 it for our drinking wants. "When in Hong Kong, they had not 
 had rain for a long time, and the authorities were very anxious 
 about the supply. There was only three weeks' supply left, and 
 the water was cut off after a very short time, and the inhabitants 
 urged not to waste any; and when a wet day came, it was 
 welcomed with every sign of delight. 
 
 Travellers have often noticed that they lose flesh at sea. One 
 day we rigged up the butcher's steel yard, and I cannot say 
 " scaled," but tried our weights. All who tried had lost weight, 
 myself 13 lbs,, and others from 9 lbs. to 15 lbs. I scaled at 
 Liverpool the day I started, and did the same when I returned 
 there, and I had lost 18 lbs. No one seems to know why. 
 With such a lazy life, so far as exercise goes, for eleven weeks, 
 one would think there would be a gain, but such is not 
 the case. 
 
 Going through the Straits of Malacca, forest fires were of 
 frequent occurrence. Dense volumes of smoke hung over the 
 land, and lurid flames shot up at intervals. We learned that it 
 had been a very dry season, with intense heat, so that everything 
 was ripe for a blaze. We passed well within sight of the town 
 of Malacca, and it looked like a place of considerable im- 
 portance. 
 
 I have given in a previous letter some account of Nagasaki ; 
 but I omitted to state that it has a number of streams running 
 through it ; and these are crossed by bridges of the same kind 
 as depicted on the willow-pattern Chinese plates : up three or 
 
'0 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 -I 
 
 four steps, then a straight platform, then down by another lot 
 of steps. 
 
 The railway from Yokohama to Tokio passes through a well- 
 cultivated country : rice fields kept slightly under water, 
 rape-seed plantations, tea plantations, and orchards. The 
 apple trees were treated in a manner I have not seen elsewhere. 
 Each tree was surrounded by bamboo canes laced together on 
 the top, and the branches trained to lie over the top so that the 
 fruit might get the full benefit of the sun. In Tokio there are 
 several handsome hotels, substantially built, kept by foreigners, 
 at which refreshments in true Parisian style can be obtained. 
 Most of the native houses and shops are of wood ; the roads 
 are wide, and differ from the Chinese in being less crowded. 
 It is estimated that the population numbers nearly two 
 millions. 
 
 In British Columbia and the Western States of America, the 
 use of copper money is unknown. The smallest coin is the 
 nickel five cent piece (2^d.), which is the general price of a 
 tram-car ride, for cleaning boots, a newspaper, or a glass of 
 lager-beer. If two friends go to the bar of a refreshment 
 house, the charge for a drink of spirits is 25 cents (Is.) The 
 plan is to place the bottle of spirits and a glass before you, and 
 a bottle of water ; you take as much spirit, or as little, as you 
 please, the price is the same. If you go in alone, and put 
 down the ten cents, nothing is said ; but if you offer a 25 cent 
 piece, you only get a 10 cent piece change. Everybody 
 seems to approve of it, rather than have copper money 
 introduced. 
 
 All through the United States and Canada the term 
 "Quarter-day" is unknown; all accounts and payments for 
 rent, &c., are made monthly ; hence a remark we often use in 
 England that nothing is certain but death and quarter-day, has 
 no point with them. 
 
 Just a word of advice to gentlemen thinking of visiting the 
 States. There are certain phrases that we use which have a 
 different meaning with Americans. For instance, if you see a 
 lady looking very fatigued, you must not say that she looks 
 " knocked-up." In America that term is applied solely to a 
 lady in an interesting condition. I inadvertently said so to two 
 ladies who had been out shopping, and were very tired ; and 
 the husband of one of them called me aside, and explained 
 their use of the phrase, and cautioned me not to use it, as it 
 was deemed indelicate ; and if it was so in the case of married 
 
 /! 
 
 i. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 71 
 
 ladies, how heinous the offence would be if they were single ! 
 If serving poultry, you must not ask a lady if she prefers the 
 breast, or leg, or wing ; you must say white meat, or limb, or 
 flipper. And the male bird must not be called as we call it, 
 but must be spoken of as " a rooster." These little delicacies 
 of expression one i^arns in time after making a few blunders. 
 Some of my readers may feel interested in knowing the 
 " runs " that the Empress of India made. We left Birkenhead 
 dock on Sunday, the 8th February, at 10 a.m. The run is 
 calculated from noon to noon eauh day. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 11 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 19 
 20 
 21 
 
 25 
 
 26 
 27 
 „ 28 
 March 1 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 7 
 
 »5 
 35 
 
 I 
 
 5> 
 )J 
 )) 
 J) 
 J) 
 )5 
 
 55 
 » 
 )) 
 J) 
 
 )} 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 
 16 
 
 Lat. 49.50 
 
 Long. 6.23 ... miles run 
 
 344 
 
 „ 43.41 
 
 9.6 
 
 >> 
 
 388 
 
 „ 38.7 
 
 ,, 9.33 ... 
 
 )j 
 
 343 
 
 To GlBEALTAR ... 
 
 5J 
 
 264 
 
 Lat. 37.15 
 
 Long. 7.10 c Gib. 
 
 )» 
 
 220 
 
 „ 40.37 
 
 „ 2.38 
 
 n 
 
 269 
 
 To Marseilles 
 
 )) 
 
 206 
 
 From Marseilles 
 
 )) 
 
 221 
 
 To Naples 
 
 ••* ••• *■• 
 
 »» 
 
 233 
 
 Lat. 37.43 From Naples Long. 16.21 
 
 3) 
 
 230 
 
 Lat. 35.36 
 
 Long. 21.31 
 
 » 
 
 278J 
 
 „ 33.18 
 
 „ 27.48 
 
 )) 
 
 334 
 
 To Port Said 
 
 33 
 
 27H 
 
 Lat. 29.3 From SrEZ Long. 32.46 
 
 33 
 
 57 
 
 „ 24.28 
 
 Long. 36.10 
 
 >> 
 
 331 
 
 „ 20.3^ 
 
 „ 38.52 
 
 » 
 
 304 
 
 „ 15.2^ 
 
 „ 41.54 
 
 >» 
 
 348 
 
 „ 12.44 
 
 „ 45.41^ ... 
 
 >» 
 
 310 
 
 „ 12.54 
 
 „ 50.48 
 
 53 
 
 299 
 
 „ 12.25i 
 
 „ 56.12 
 
 >» 
 
 320 
 
 „ 11.17 
 
 „ 61.18 
 
 55 
 
 307 
 
 „ 10.12 
 
 „ 66.28 
 
 53 
 
 309 
 
 ,, 8.56 
 
 „ 71.29J ... 
 
 5) 
 
 309 
 
 „ 8.0 
 
 „ 76.28 
 
 >» 
 
 301 
 
 To Colombo 
 
 ... > t • • • t 
 
 53 
 
 214 
 
 Lat. 5.42 
 
 Long. 81.58 
 
 53 
 
 187 
 
 „ 5.52 
 
 „ 86.47 
 
 55 
 
 288 
 
 „ 6.0 
 
 „ 92.9 
 
 35 
 
 322 
 
 „ 5.49 
 
 „ 96.24 
 
 35 
 
 254 
 
 To Penang 
 
 • • • • • • • • • 
 
 55 
 
 241 
 
 Lat. 2 39 
 
 Long. 96.2 
 
 >J 
 
 215 
 
 To SiXGAPORE 
 
 J> 
 
 182 
 
72 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Mar. 19 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 
 >> 
 
 >> 
 
 
 >« 
 
 April 
 
 )) 
 
 >» 
 
 » 
 
 »> 
 
 8 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 Lat. 4.11 Long. 106.0 
 
 8.38 „ 108.52 
 
 13.20 „ 111.44 
 
 „ 17.35 „ 114.0 
 To HoNO KoNO 
 
 Lai 25.5 Long. 119.42 
 
 „ 30.48 „ 122.15 
 
 To "WOOSUNG 
 
 Lai 31.42 Long. 124.59 
 
 To Nagasaki 
 
 Lai 33.45 Long. 131.54 
 To KoBi ... 
 
 Lai 33.36 Long. 136.18 
 To YoKOnAMA ... 
 
 „ 18 
 
 • • * 
 
 Lai 37.34 
 
 Long. 
 
 144.39 
 
 „ 19 
 
 . . t 
 
 „ 40.32 
 
 
 151.32 
 
 „ 20 
 
 • * ■ 
 
 „ 43.24 
 
 
 158.53 
 
 ., 21 
 
 • • • 
 
 „ 46.26 
 
 
 166.38 
 
 „ 22 
 
 • • • 
 
 „ 48.23 
 
 
 175.34 
 
 A itipodes 
 
 Day 
 
 „ 49.37 
 
 
 175.0 
 
 „ 23 
 
 ■ * * 
 
 „ 49.53 
 
 
 165.26 
 
 „ 24 
 
 . • < 
 
 „ 49.51 
 
 
 155.38 
 
 „ 25 
 
 • • * 
 
 „ 49.26 
 
 
 146.46 
 
 „ 26 
 
 • * k 
 
 „ 49.7 
 
 
 139.15 
 
 „ 27 
 
 ... 
 
 „ 49.9 
 
 
 130.22 
 
 
 
 To Vancouver ... 
 
 ■ * • 
 
 miles run 
 
 225 
 
 n 
 
 317 
 
 )) 
 
 329 
 
 >) 
 
 289 
 
 )) 
 
 288 
 
 >» 
 
 367 
 
 >> 
 
 394 
 
 *» 
 
 58 
 
 » 
 
 191 
 
 » 
 
 256 
 
 )) 
 
 199 
 
 »» 
 
 186 
 
 » 
 
 131 
 
 )} 
 
 218 
 
 >> 
 
 320 
 
 11 
 
 366 
 
 a 
 
 371 
 
 »> 
 
 376 
 
 >> 
 
 381 
 
 )) 
 
 378 
 
 )) 
 
 372 
 
 11 
 
 379 
 
 11 
 
 346 
 
 11 
 
 295 
 
 11 
 
 349 
 
 'lk« 
 
 366 
 
 Just before entering Vancouver, we saw the wreck of the 
 Beaver, a paddle-wheel tug-steamer, the first steamer to ply 
 upon the Pacific Ocean. She came out from England about the 
 year 1850, and has had a very successful career ; but she was 
 worn out at last, and whether wrecked by accident or design 
 nobody knows. She is high and dry upon the rocks, and the 
 barnacles growing over her. It was said at Vancouver that 
 the managers of the World's Fair, at Chicago, were thinking of 
 removing her exactly as she now lies, and exhibiting her as a 
 curiosity; but I cannot think the game would be worth the 
 candle. 
 
 i 
 
rORT ANGELES. 
 
 75 
 
 PORT ANGELES. 
 
 State op Washington, U.S.A. 
 
 Tins new and rapidly-growing city is situated in the Strait of 
 San Juan do Fuca, which divides the United States of America 
 from British Columbia. It lies exactly opposite Victoria, the 
 capital of Vancouver's Island, the distance between them being 
 seventeen and a-half miles. The climate is most salubrious, 
 neither too hot in summer nor too cold in winter. It commenced 
 existence about five years ago, and is now a city of the third 
 grade, having over 5,000 inhabitants. It is incorporated, has a 
 mayor, town council, three weekly newspapers, is lighted by 
 electricity, and will shortly have electric cars running. It 
 possesses a splendid harbour, with a natural break^^ater, 
 enclosing a space four and a-half miles long by two and a-half 
 broad, or nearly twelve square miles of anchorage in deep 
 water. Six jetties have been constructed, and at each of them 
 there is 86 ft. depth of water at low tides. The breakwater is 
 due to some convulsion of nature at a remote period, by which 
 a slice of the shore has been forced off, thus leaving the harbour 
 in the shape of a horseshoe, the inlet being at the eastern end. 
 A lighthouse has been erected at the extremity of the break- 
 water, which can be plainly seen from Victoria. During a gale 
 in January last; twenty-two large vessels took shelter in the 
 harbour, which is easy of entrance, not having any sandbanks 
 or impediments to free access. 
 
 The history of the place has something of romance about it. 
 In the year 1860, President Lincoln wished to found a naval 
 station in the Pacific, something similar to the British station 
 in Esquimault Bay, close to Victoria ; and, perhaps, with a 
 view to keep that place in check. He sent out an expedition, 
 under Mr. George Smith, to survey the coast between the 
 Colombia river right to Puget Sound, and they hit upon this 
 natural harbour. Eeturning to Washington, they reported as 
 to the exact fitness of the place ; and the President sent them 
 back, with men and money, to form a settlement ; but the ship 
 they sailed in was wrecked in the Caribbean sea, the treasure, 
 
74 
 
 A TOUE ROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 N 
 
 iHi 
 
 M 
 
 and, worse atill, many lives lost. Mr. Smith returned to 
 Washington, and reported the disaster, but the Civil War had 
 broken out, and the President could no longer attend to it. 
 Mr. Smith thereupon bought the foreshore from the State 
 authorities, and determined to form a settlement by his own 
 efforts. He reached San Francisco, and took ship for Victoria ; 
 but the ship was lost, and he was drowned. Ilis son, a mere 
 lad at that time, followed his father's profession — land surveyor 
 and civil engineer. Arriving at man's estate, he went to 
 Chicago, after the fire, and found employment in the rebuilding 
 of that city ; and having made a small fortune, determined to 
 see what sort of a place Port Angeles was, and to vindicate his 
 father's judgment if he approved the site. To see was to be 
 convinced of the wonderful advantages it possessed, so he 
 hastened back to Chicago, called together his band of men, 
 numbering nearly 400, told them he was going to found a city 
 on the Pacific coast, and asked them to give him their labour in 
 return for his land, finding food until they were able to earn it. 
 A joint stock association was formed on these terms, and five 
 years ago they commenced operations. Provisions were 
 obtained from Victoria, plenty of timber was on the land, they 
 were soon housed, plenty of people followed to increase the 
 settlement, and the result is that the association thus formed is 
 now worth half a million of dollars. Mr. Norman Smith has 
 built himself a fine residence overlooking the sea, and is the life 
 and soul of the place. 
 
 To a great extent the back part of what will be within 
 city limits is still forest land, the trees being redwood, cedar, 
 pine, etc., all fit for building purposes. The land slopes back 
 on a gentle ascent, some fifteen miles to the foot of the 
 Olympian mountains, from whence three streams of pure water 
 flow into the harbour. Many English gentlemen in Victoria 
 who were impressed with the future of the city, and not at all 
 jealous of it as a rival, formed a syndicate, and purchased a 
 large estate outside of Mr. Smith's property, but within what 
 has been laid down as the limits of the city. This they have 
 planned out into forty acre lots, reserving 160 acres in the 
 centre to form a Park for the use of future inhabitants as a 
 recreation ground and breathing spot. 
 
 This estate is known as the Chandler and Coolican Estate, 
 those being the names of the President and Vice-president. 
 The Mayor of Victoria is one of the trustees of the funds, and 
 I have every belief that it is and wiU be honourably managed. 
 
PORT ANGELES. 
 
 75 
 
 ■ 
 
 ate, 
 ent. 
 and 
 ged. 
 
 I have fully inspected the whole district, and my conviction is 
 that it will ere long far out-rival (Seattle, Port Townsend, or 
 Taconia, all lying well up Puget Sound, whilst Port Angeles 
 is on the open ocean, and ships can enter without, being towed. 
 An expert who has been exploring the Olympian range says 
 that coal and minerals abound there, only awaiting the opening 
 up of a road to bring it to the seaside. A railroad is being 
 constructed, which wiU make this place its terminus and 
 connect it with the existing lines of Washington and Oregon. 
 Being thus impressed with the growing importance of the 
 port, I took up the option of 40 acres, at 125 dollars the acre, 
 for myself and friends, and became the agent for England for 
 the sale of other portions. Since I was out, a sale by auction 
 has been held, when house lots fetched such good prices that 
 the reser? 9 price for forty-acre plots has gone up 25 per cent. 
 I shall ba very pleased to give further information, exhibit 
 maps, plans, &c., to intending purchasers, and I firmly believe — 
 but of course I do not guarantee — that buyers will reap a rich 
 harvest. The following extract from the North American Review 
 gives a fair account of what public opinion is as to the future 
 of the place : — 
 
 "The city of Port Angeles, situated on the Strait of Juan 
 de Fuca, midway between the ocean and the already well- 
 known ports of Puget Sound, occupies one of the most 
 commanding positions in the entire coast line of the Union. 
 The Strait of Fuca is the great north-west artery through 
 which is now beginning to flow one of the richest streams of 
 commerce which this country has seen, or will ever see. To 
 and from the populous countries of the Orient, four transconti- 
 nental railways are reaching out to this matchless highway of 
 trade, and from it are being projected and put under way some 
 of the most gigantic steamship lines of the age, under the 
 fostering patronage of the two greatest commercial nations of 
 the world — the United States and England. Towards the 
 inner end of this strait, which is a hundred miles long, and from 
 ten to twenty miles wide, standing iis-l)b-ii% are the two cities 
 that during the coming decade are sure to attract the attention 
 of the entire country — Victoria, B. C, and Port Angeles, Wash, 
 
 Port Angeles is an old infant, her political and commercial 
 importance being recognised by the general government as far 
 back as 1862, when it laid out the present Fort Angeles town- 
 site. The city of Washington D. 0., is the only other in the 
 country which enjoys the distinction of having been laid out 
 
I 
 
 k >-^^ 
 
 v;*;. A 
 
 ■^ 
 
 
 •-•v :^ 
 
 ^Ti 
 
 • ^ 
 
 fi,- 
 
 ■-«..■ 
 
 Wl 
 
 -r»- 
 
 <6 A TOUR ROUND TII?3 GLOBE. 
 
 by the Government. Her harbour is the only safe and 
 important one on the American side of the strait, and is one of 
 the finest, as well as the most picturesque, in the world, being 
 commonly called the " Cherbourg of America." 
 
 In connection with this the following 'luthority is quoted : — 
 *' A remarkable and beautiful harbour, in which no winds blow 
 jiome," says Capt. E-ichards, Eoj^al Navj', in his reports of 
 Surveys on N. W. Coast Harbours. ''On the south shore of the 
 .strait it is the occasional northwesters which are dreaded, and 
 against them there is only a single harbour of value — Port 
 Ai-'^cles. A curving spit reaching out from the shore, encloses 
 ai? oval harbour three miles long, which is sufficiently deep for 
 the use of any vessel, and thoroughly protected. The shores 
 are admirably adapted for wharfage purposes, and the country 
 ])ehind the port abounds in splendid timber and in soils 
 Viduable for agriculture. Many persons regard it as certain 
 that one of the chief seaports of this region will eventually 
 grow here." — North Padfic Pilot ^ pages 485, 486. 
 
 Within six months after incorporation, the town advanced 
 uiiiler the State laws to a city of the third class, and is now 
 rapidly striding on to the second class. In the first year of 
 her existence she has built streets, sidewalks, business blocks, 
 ocean docks, hotels, schoolhouses, chui'ches, and hundreds of 
 residences ; put in a magnificent system of water works and 
 electric lights ; secured a daily mail, daily line of boats 
 connecting with all Puget Sound points ; become a poii; of 
 entry at which more shipping is now being entered and 
 cleared than at any other j)oint in the district ; established 
 ferry communications with Victoria, which will be the fore- 
 runner of the great railway ferry to come ; and accomplished 
 many other things that would do credit to a much older town. 
 
 ",:>-■ ■ 
 
 ll 
 
 City Press : W. H, & L. Collingridge, 148 and 149, Aldersgate Street, London. E.C. 
 
 \i 
 

 1 
 
 ■ ; 
 
 • 
 
 ■ 
 
 - , ■ # 
 
 
 *, 
 
 
 D.E.C.