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TiiR following Letters wore Imrriedly written dnring an excursion through part of the United States and ]3ritisli North America, in the Summer of IH^'.i. Several of them 1iUiiuik^a4jwi,ppciU'oJ from ^tiiue to tiflftfe in tlio CJlasooic Ai'gm, but the wholo are now printed in their present form at the suggestion of several kind friends in the Canadas, who had not soon them as they formerly appeared. In complying with this request, I have been influenced by the desire of making a sliglit acknowledgment to these transatlantic friends for the great kindness and attention which I invariably received during my brief sojourn amongst them. While doing this, at same time, to demonstrate to my countrymen how much a person having the desire to obtain a knowledge of foreign countries may accomplisli in a few weeks, and to induce^ if possible, my fellow-citizens to take advantage of the facilities now afforded by steam navigation, and visit a continent Avhicli must in a greater oi' less degree bo interesting to every mercantile mind. No country on the face of the globe possesses greater attractions than America, not only from its rapidly increasing commercial and political im- portance, and from its vast natural resources — the development of which is every day becoming more apparent — but a country, much of whose diversified scenery, besides being picturesque and beauti- ful in no small degree, possesses a grandeur and sublimity not to be equalled ; and whose people are generally as intelligent and enterprising as they are hospitable and attentive to strangers. In making my remarks, I have endeavoured to condense, in the form of a diary, as much information as possible, and have never attempted to spin out the ideas as they entered my mind, in that uninteresting and diffuse style often resorted to by those who visit distant countries for the mere purpose of manufacturing a volume. J. L. t-1 LKTTER FIRST :) Oi). Board the IIibernia, J?nvol Mail Stmrn-t^hij), Lilt. 44 '.•'. \-r<-[). 57 ' 40' — MoNDAV, .'/"// 1. tS4:t. My Deai! We arc now within twenty-four liours' sail of Halifax: the weather is very cold and tho wind fair. Yesterday (Sunday) while crossing tho great Newfoundland Bank, it blew a smart gale, and all day long it rained heavily ; in fact, it was tho most miserable dny wc liavo had since we left Liverpool. A copy of tho log, liowever, which I sliall secure before leaving the ship, will give you a better idea of the passage than you could receive from any descrii)tion of mine. Although tlio weather has been pretty rough, the passage, upon the whole, has been a pleasant one. The vessel, I believe, by the time she completes the voyage, will prove herself equal in speed, if not superior, to any steamer on tho line ; the accommodation is excellent, the sleeping berths roomy, and the general arrangements perfect. Although we have upwards of a hundred passengers, every one seems well pleased. The management is unexceptionable, every thing being conducted on tho most liberal scale. Our tables groan three times a-day with every luxury that can be had on shore, and there is more than sufficient to satisfy the appetite of the most voluptuous gourmand. Besides the regular meals— breakfast, dinner, and tea— we have, at noon, a most sumptuous lunch, and in tho evening, before going to bed, Welsh rabbits, porridge, salt fish, and sardans, arc -h-v-d out in great profusion. But I cannot give you a better idea I' the mode of living, than by inclosing, as I shall do, a carte de jour. Tho number of stewards to attend to our comforts is about twenty, besides boots, butchers, bakers, confectioners, scullions, &c., in addition to which wc have an able-bodied crew of thirty seamen, and a like number in tho engineer department. On the whole, we have on board upwards of two hundred souls. Before referring you to the log, which, properly speaking, should commence on leaving tho Irish land, I will give you some idea of I our first iwiKlnvs'oxpcriciico tilinard .-liip. At half-past (.'lovoii, a.m., on WoiliK^sdny, H'tli April. tli(' p.'V'J'iciitrcr.H startcil, in a small rivor steamer, from Mgrenioiit Slip, for tlio ]lil)eniia, wi.irh was miKircil ill view. This small steamer was erowdeil to excess, the numerous relatives anil friends of the ))assc'nu'ers bein^j,- anxious, not only to see their friends otf, hut to have an opportiniity of in.-peetini,' tlio splendid new vessel, which, witli the steam ru^liin;^' at tlu; time with trcmendou.s force, and eseaping with fearful noise, seemed like a snortin^i,' war-stec tons of coal") — a quantify moro than snflii;ifnt to lake iicr out and lionu'. Ilor draught of water at sfarting was niuctt-on foct, but now being light- ened to seventeen, wc arc making, whilst I write, upwards of twelve knots an hour. It is tlu? opinion of every onu on boanl, that the lliliernia will prove a (:lij>i>i:r in steam, and it is cxpceted she will make a very short passage homo; she is certainly a .superior ship in every particular — rides easily, and ships litlh; water; no man, in short, could wisb a better in whicli to cross tho Atlantic. Amonirst tlie company wo have a party of tho royal engineers — (.'ai)taiu lirougliton, (!aptain Uobinson, and Meutenant l?ipon — sent out by the JJritish government to survey and arrange finally, in conjunction with the American engineers, the disputed territory in the state of Maine, liesides these, we have also, in connexion with Her Majesty's service, (Adonel lloUoway of tho royal engineers, with his family, for Montreal, to take tlio com- mand of that service in tho (Janadas ; and Lieutenant-Colonel .slade, going out to his regiment at .St. John's, Xew Brunswick. Tho remainder of the company are chiefly composed of old and young Canadian merchants. Nova tScotians, and others, returning from laying in their supplies, in tho expectation of an improved business this summer; there are also several gentlemen from Quebec, engaged in tlio timber trade, who are grumbling nut a little at IVel's timber faritt"; with two or three highly pleasant com- panions from the sterile soil of Newfoundland. 1 had almost forgot to mention, that amongst our passengers we have a gentleman who at one time stood for tho honour of representing our Fifth Ward as a councillor, and who, although disappointed in the object of his laudable ambition in his native city, is likelv cnoutrli, considerino- his prudent and economical habits, to attain among strangers some exalted civic dignity — perhaps even that of representative in tho Colonial Assembly, lie has a large iiourishing establishment in Montreal, called The Albion IIouse. lie leaves us at IJoston, but not without a kind invitation to all his fellow passengers to call upon liim, and crack a bottle of champagne or burgundy at his domicile in Montreal — his cellar being well stored! The invitation lias been vcrii fjaiend ; and if it be as generally accepted, my friend the Councillor and I may expect lots of fun when wc get to Canada. Among the amusements of the day we have got up a lottery, the ]»rizo ilopcndiiig nii tlio tiiiio tlio ship may arrive at Halifax. Tho tickots wort' five shillings cacli, ami tiioro aro upwards of sixty siibscribors. Great speculation and excitement liav(! been goinj,' on all day with tho buyiiiii; and scdli-ii^ of the favourite iiuin bcrs. I Mr. .lolinstone, of .Mirainiclii, was the fortunate liolder <>i' tho wiuuiu!;^ ticket. | N.IJ Amongst tho itcm.s which help tho dead weight, wc have i:3l.'l',.'W.) in .specie on board. I will keep this open until to- morrow, and finish it asliorc. I find great difHijulty in writing, fmm tho niUing of thosliip, therefore you )nu.st excuse tliis jiurried sketch. Halifax, 7Vw liCJock, TiiCKduif. I write this in Mr. Stair's office, liaving only a few minutes to spare, as tho steam is up and tlio .signal hoisted for Ooston. We have left a great many of our passengers here, I rerognised with nmch pleasure, amongst the immense crowds on the wharf, tho lloti. Mr. Cmmard, the spirited projector of tho Halifax mail steamers, and our young kinsman, W. K , looking with niuuth and oycs for news from homo. We havo been going about visiting numerous friends, many of whom I havo seen before, and 1 rccoivo tho greatest kindness and attention from tlicm. I am not permitted to leave without promising, tliat if all goes well, I shall spend a few days in this colony on my return. I havo made up my mind to como back by tho Jlibcrnia, being (piito delighted with the ship — the captain — tlio crew — tho subordinate otHcjials— general arrange- ments — faro — and management. Yours, etc. AusriiAcT OF Lot; ;.N.E. S. and S.S.E. do. S. and N. N.N.E. ...1.54 ...130 ...145 ...180 ...212 ...221 ...258 ...237 ..247 do. do. do. do. eetntions of its early friends, aiul a d(!eided jirefereiiee seems to Im- ;:iveii to tlie Aidjuru or Silent System; lint even it, I fear, does not merit llie very liigliest commendation. Under this system tlio convicts are not allowed to oxchango a word with ench other, or to connnnni('ato by writing or any sign whatever, and for infringing the regulations thoy are pnnished hy flogging, which is inllieted, I understand, with due discretion, according to the nature and magnitude of tli'" otl'onco: but for greater oifonccs the criminal is afllxod to a chair or stocks, and cold water allowed constantly to kco]) dropping on the crown of his head. This latter is a most barliarous and cruel punishment, and ought not to be tolerated in any civilized country. Tiic numerous public buildings — the Tiieatre, the Now Ivvchango, and, last not least, that now deserted and solitary nionnment of morcantilo speculation, the Linitcd States Haidc, standing with closed doors and empty benches — arc all composed of most beautiful white marble. Many of the houses of the better class of citi/en^ are built of tho same material; and it is rare to meet a house that has not the lower basement, steps, and side parapets, of marblo. Tliis gives tho city, with her miiformly Avhito painted doors and green lattices, a most cheerful and exhilarating ap])earance, os]ie cially under tlio influontic of v.hat, a great part of tho year, may bo called an Italian atmosphere. Among tho public edilice-, 1 had idmost neglected to mention tho United States Mint, one of the most chaste and classical l)uild- ings I have ever seen; and wliilo the exterior is so very attractive, the internnl arrangements jtossess an interest to tlio mochnuical mind beyond any ])ublic institution with which I om accjuainted. Hero is coined all tho metallic currency of tlio Union. It is a wonderful establishment, and conducted -with tho greatest sim- plicity. What an iMiglishman cannot fail to admire, is the facility with which every thing about it is submitted to his examination. No Joseph Hume influence has ever been needed to let a man look at his own — yea, and handle, if he has a wish, the glittering coin which ho sees dropped from tho die. A stranger does not require hero, (as is the case at the Mint in London, and several other national establishments,) before he can be admitted, to diinco attendance for two or three days upon some groat man in power, to secure his influence and introduction. The same principle of freely admitting tho peoplo is ob.servod in tho management of all the ,< 17 national institutions of America. Tlie steam engine tliat supplies moclianical power for tlie wliolo operations of the Mint is of the most ingenious construction, ami it is scaniely possible to conceive any tiling of tlio kind more beautiful. It has what is termed a liori/ontal stroke, and its movements are so nicely adjusted that you cannot hear it working. In point of workmanship, it is really ex^ anxiftty to got away from |)iil)li(! ImsiiicsH, lor no poo lovil could Ito iiioro .'imioyod. Till) oid_y party in tlic Ihiioii who soem pleaded with him aro tlioso ho lias plactMl in power for a timo (no poiisionurs horc), anxious, no doubt, to HU|)port their patron, well knowing,' that if ho lose hiselec-^ tion, the oiio who succeeds will turn tliem all to the ri,i,dit al)out. This is a state fpf <;ov nnneiit whicji the friends of irood onler would (Certainly not wish to ^ec inuvated, but if partially introduced in our country.- some of our nd lutntii nut cidiMia boys wouhl feel a littlo Hipieaniisli, Tlie brief awd uncertain teniiro of public olKco may, as 1 formerly hintod, account tn sonio extent for tho groat number of defaulters corifieoted with tlio eullcotion of tho public revenue. The principle dues not extend, I believe, to tho very lowest grades of publii; servants under the Federal (j(jveriuucnt, but in tho municipal or individual state appoiatmonts, the ("tovcrnor, or tho mayor of a city, may cliango any subordinate servant, oven to tlio v(!ry street scavengers I which 1 think I told you was generally tho case. Witness tho exhibitions at \ew York a few days ago. But 1 must call a halt about politics, and tell you about tho public buildings of Washington. The general plan of the city is most extensive — the streets and sipiares magnificent, but as yet they aro for the most part only on paper; and though tho city should go a head at a very great rate, it will probably take a luui' dred years before it can bo considered worthy of the name of tho capital of a groat nation. At present it «locs not contain more than twenty thousand inhabitants, and tho greater proportion, I should say at least twelve thousand, aro comiected with tho Post-Offico, Treasury, navy yard, and other Oovornment ofHces. Tho Capitol, in which aro held tho meetings of tho American Congress, stands out from tho upper end of the city on an eminonco singularly majestic. It is a handsome edifice. Tho Rotunda, which is nearly one hundred feet high, and paved with marble, contains basso-relievos of historical scenes coiniocted with American history, and Trumbull's celebrated pictures of tho declaration of American Independence, tho Capture of Cornwallis and tho British Army, and Washington resigning his Commission. Tho Post-Offico is an elegant and very commodious marble edifice, and tho Treasury buildings, which aro of freestone, arc very extensive. Immediately behind stands the house of the President, a neat, plain, marble building, but not equal in size or elegance to many of the houses of tho English nobility and gentry. Tho pleasure grounds adjoining aro very prettily laid out, and there the citizens promenade two or 20 1^ ii i;i. i ■ II three times a-week in the evenings, and on these occasions the scene is enlivened by bands of instrumental music. The Patent Office forms one of the chief attractions of Washington, (lOntaining as it does an immense variety of models, displaying not flnly great ingenuity in their invention, but strikingly exhibiting by their construction the great advancement the Americans have made in the mechanical arts. The navy-yard hero is also well worth the notice of strangers — a good many vessels of war — the Union steam frigate, one thousand tons, with horizontal submerged propellers — invented by Lieutenant Hunter, of the United States navy — has been successfully tried — runs smoothly twelve knots, and with a head wind eight knots an hour — cost I believe upwards of half a million of dollars — no paddle-boxes in view — the machinery and wheels com- pletely protected from shot and shells. The CTOvernment were at first sceptical as to the advantages, and I have been told that the inventor was at the sole expense of the machinery for this vessel, the Government merely allowing the use of their navy -yard, and furnishing the timbei". I neglected to mention while at Philadel- phia, tliat in the navy-yard there a largo frigate was fitting up with Erikson's propellers, whicli it was supposed would not answer. From Washington we took an excursion, one hundred and fifty- five miles, per railway, to Cumberland — a mineral district in Mary- land — passing through an interesting country. About half-way is Harper's Ferry, a most romantic and picturesque spot, where the United States Government have a largo arsenal, foundry for cannon, and manufactory for small arms. As this letter is long enough already, I will tell you all about the mineral district when I next write. The weather is very pleasant, and we are as yet not annoyed with musquitoes or any " varmint " of that sort. Yours, &c. LETTER FIFTH. kt e 1, d 1- ,Ii Y- y- ly le n, xt 3(1 New York, June 12th, 1843. My Dear In my last I concluded by informing you of our excursion to Cumberland, situated on the lowest ridge of tlie Alle- ghany mountains. Wo visited the mines of the Boston and New York Company, and there we met an intelligent countryman of the name of Douglas, at the head of a small colony of Scottish miners, who have been for some time surveying, and are ready to commence operations as soon as the canal is tinishcd, of which there is still about ton miles to complete. When this is accomplished, the com- pany will be enabled to ship their coal to Georgetown and Washing- ton on the Chesapeake, and from tliencc it will be borno sea-ward to New York and the eastern cities of the Union. We met at Cumberland Mr. O'Moraun, and a party of gentlemen interested in those mines, who asked us politely to accompany them on their visit to them. Our trip was a pleasant one, and from Captain Pickell I received the following information relative to the mineral products of tliis interesting district; — " The mineral property belonging to Messrs. O'Moraun, Dennison, Ames, and other gentlemen in New York, contains seven separate and distinct seams of bituminous coal, of the finest quality, and varying in thickness from one to fourteen feet. The thickest, or fourteen feet seam, underlays nearly a thousand acres. The next of importance is five feet thick, and underlays more than two thousand acres ; the other seams, of four feet and downwards, run through an immense territory. All the mines can be worked by horizontal drifts of adits, and entirely kept free of water. The only coal yet worked is from the thickest vein, and is brought to the mouth of the open- ings at the small cost of one cent and a quarter per bushel, or about oue shilling and sixpence of our money per ton. This includes all expenses incident to the mining. The coal upon the most careful analysis has been found to contain 78.0 carbon, 19.0 bitumen, 3.0 H \\ 22 V :i| II cartliy matters, and has a specific gravity of 1.321. The coal used at the Dowlais Iron Works in Wales is remarkably similar to this in its I'cspcctivc components. The seam of caunel of one and a half to two and a half inches, whicli crowns the upper part of the first six and a half feet of tlio coal, and then passing for the next three or four inclios into a coal similar to the Scotch splint, is a peculiarity which distinguishes it from any other in this basin." At present, the nearest or northern portion of the Cumberland and Alleghany coal region is nearly two hundred miles by the Chesa- peake and Ohio canal from tide-water; and a great part of the heavy expense of transport is by waggons to the point where the canal terminates. This canal has already cost upwards of two millions of dollars, and I am told it will require another million (probably of English money) to complete it. When this is done, the coal will be laid down in New York at three dollars per ton. Whilst in tlio neighbourhood we also visited Frostburgh, twelve miles from the town of Cumberland, where there are largo iron works in blast, belonging to an English company. We returned to Baltimore, and liaving pushed on to Philadel- phia, we there spent another day, driving about the suburbs, and seeing the surrounding sconery. The valley of the Schuylkill, in particular, is very fine. My companion, the Councillor, having left me here, and proceeded on to New York, I took the opportunity to accompany a friend to Pottsvillc, for the purpose of examining tho most extensive anthracite coal district in Pennsylvania. The Reading railway, wliich leads to the coal region, is one of the best in the country, exhibiting as it does, in its tunnels, bridges, and other great works, the highest engineering talent. The com- pany are deeply interested in the mining prosperity of this district, and the directors are most anxious at all times, when strangers visit Philadelphia, that they should have information on the vast resources this part of the country presents in mineral wealth, as tho most likely way of inducing capitalists from the old country to invest here ; and I may mention, as an instance of their extreme civility, that tho chairman of the board, having heard of my arrival in tho city, politely sent me by his secretary an order to travel freo over tho whole line. Mr. Sanderson of I'hiladelphia, a gentleman well informed upon every thing connected with mining, was my companion to Pottsvillc, and to him I am greatly indebted for many interesting statements connected with the trade and agricul- tural advancement of the district. < »u leaving Philadelphia the scenery presented is uncommonly 2:\ beautiful. Tlio gardens and promenades which lino the banks of the Soluiylkill, with the nobh? arches and viaducts by which it is spanneil, leave on the mind of the departing visitor a higlily agree able impression of this fine city. On the opposite side from the railway, the Wissahicken river enters the Schuylkill, and shortly afterwards wo pas^ on the same side Manayunk, the Lowell oi' Pennsylvania, where there are a great many cotton and woollen manufactories, flour-mills, iron works, paper-mills, and otlior machin ery of vast extent, engaged in various manufactures. 1 am told that previous to 1818 there were here no public works in existence, and now there is a continuous lino for more than a mile of magnifi- cent factories, with a largo and handsome town in the back ground, containing a numerous population. We travelled at the rate of twenty miles an hour, whicli is considered groat speed for an Ameri- can railway, and wo passed in succession many large and powerful waterfalls, all connected with mills of various kinds. Sliortly we entered a tunnel nearly two thousand feet long, cut through solid blue slate rock, and very similar in construction to our B'shopton one on the Greenock railway. Wc next passed several extensive villages, and some large marble and limestone quarries. The pretty and interesting village of Norristown came now in view, where having arrived, a most sumptuous breakfast was laid out, enough to have served at least one hundred people, though not more than about thirty of tlio passengers partook of it. Wc in Scotland are understood by strangers to provide handsomely for the morning repast, but the Americans beat us hollow. Tliink of beaf steaks, mutton chops, ham and eggs, veal cutlets, and pork .sausages; shad, catfish, mackerel, and herrings, cooked various ways. Then the usual routine of tea, coffee, flannel cakes, cheese, honey, stewed peaches, and I don't know what else besides, served up in capital stylo, and all for twenty -five cents, or about ouo shilling sterling each. You must not judge, however, from this specimen of cheap and good living that the Yankees are at all times so moderate in their charges. Travelling is really not much cheaper hero tlian in the old country — if you wish to do so as a gentleman. Norristown has a largo foundry and a great many iron manufac- tories — here the cannon were cast, in the revolutionary war, for Washington's army. Next we readied Pluenixville, situated on the west bank of the Schuylkill. Here there are extensive blast fur- naces, a great manufactory of nails made by machinery, large roll- ing mills, and other mechanical works. In the iron manufactory of Messrs. Reeves & Whitaker, the ore is taken from the ground, ■1 24 il! I k |i !'. !' smelted, puddled, rolled, and cut into nails, in many instances, without it over being once cooled. Wo next entered another tunnel about half-a-mile long, on leaving which we crossed the river on an elegant bridge, and entered on a country in the highest state of cultivation. Winding for several miles round the base of a lofty hill, on the sloping side of which the railroad is cut out of a solid rock, we next came to the town of Reading, the capital of Berks county, containing about ten thousand inhabitants. The principal manufactories and public works here are nearly all connected with the iron trade. They are well situated, as the whole country is rich in minerals of every description, and of superior quality. This town is one of the prettiest on the lino, and is situated in a very rich agricultural district. IJcrks, although considered a small county in the state, contains five hundred thousand acres of land, and eighty thousand inhabitants. From this to Pottsville the country is very beautiful and picturesque. Passing Hamburgh, Port Clin- ton, Schuylkill Haven, Mount Carbon, and many villages of grow- ing importance, wo arrived in Pottsville in time for dinner ; and, on entering the railway depot, one could scarcely imagine the bustle and extent of coal traffic which met our view. A six-wheeled engine, weighing only about eleven tons, was about starting with a train of sixty waggons, each weighing three and a half tons loaded. This railroad works economically, and Morris's eight-wheeled engines can take down to Philadelphia, in eight hours, one hundred to one hundred and twenty loaded waggons. Having got into a comfortable hotel, and enjoying a good dinner, I am not inclined to say more to-day, but will reserve for a future letter an account of the traffic from the great field of anthracite coal that is found in this district. I have not told you one half of the particulars con- nected with the coal trade, but when I got home, our friends, Dixon, Dundyvan, Dunlop, Merry, and Summerlee, sliall have matters in detail, over a beefer and bottle of champagne. Yours, ^^ oceded ill the attempt. Iiidtecl, no laiiLfiiago can ci nscy an an '- «|nato idea of its stupendous grandeur. I shall therefore nut approach the subject in tho sublime and flowery stylo of modern book-making, but shall content myself witli simply stating a few particulars, and enumerating siieli objects in the vicinity as are wortliy of the stranger's notice. In tho evening wo took a stroll by moonlight to the Table Kock, which projects about lifty feet over fho gulpli below, and is a most commanding point, from which tho noble cataract is seen in all its sublimity. Hero tlicro is a circular flight of steps, and at the foot of this stair (commences the passag\) or cave under tho great slicet of water, into whicli visitants, when equipped in wax-cloth dresses, can approach as far as Termination Rock, about one hundred and flfty feet under tho I lorse Shoo Fall. Tho heiglit of the Great Fall is about one hundred and sixty-live feet, wliicli with tho declivity of the rapids above the Falls of sixty feet, makes tho wholo descent about two hundred and twenty feet. The quantity of water that flows over is estimated variously at from fifty to one hundred millions of tons per hour, or may be sup- posed about a thousand times tho quantity that passes down the Clyde at our own city. The museum is ono of the finest I have seen, and in point of variety and extent, inferior to few in America. The album liero contains a record of the names of visitors, and some of these occasionally endeavour to express in it their feelings of admiration in language prompted by the peculiar impression made upon them by the mighty rush of waters — some being striking and appropriate, others silly and ludicrous. One or two of these effusions I hero quote for your amusement. When people visit Xiajjav.i Falls, and suppose tlicy eau say any thiiifi to exalt the inagnificcnoe of tlie scene, it is as if a ni.an would hold a taper to light tlic pathway of the sun. Better possess his nnnd witli the thought — " Be still and know tliat I am God who pours tiiesc mighty waters from the hollow of my hand!" I visited tliis place for the second time seventeen years ago. in com- pany with .1 leanied foreigner, and his language was — "God is herd— God is here!" Whilst tho sublime is, of course, the sentiment usually felt and expressed by our countrymen and foi'eigners on their first view of this mighty cataract, many of tho Americans view the scene witli 32 r I I: ,:: very (.litVcroiil i;inotioiis, and don't partake of siicli ontliiisiastu. Thvy arc of a coMor and mow matter-of-fact temperament. It is no uneonnnon oecurreiifM" at Niagara to licar a Yankee exclaim, " 'Tis a tarnation line water jirivilege!" or, " A splendit .'Mill liiilm' tuoU tlioir wny 'I'm \'k'\v Niii;.'iUM's I''iilN, nii(\ iliiv : 'I'lic |irit'st cxcljiiiiKMl, wliilo l()>t in Wdink'r, And listcnin;; to tin- cataract's tlinndev:— '• Jif)VilI lio>v tliy works amaze oiir eyes, Ami fill iiur luarls with (.dinl Miqiriso!" Tlio tailor nu'rcly made this note, — " l.onll \vhat a iilace to spiuigc a contl" In tho neighbourhood of tho Falls is a euriou3 and interesting phcnoinonon of a burning spring, not a solitary instance in Antcrica. When a light is brought into contact with tho gas emanating from tho spring, combustion instantly takes jdace, and continues fiercely for a length of time. About three miles below tho I'alls is t)io celebrated whirlpool, or ratlicr what might bo termed a ciu'ious combination of great circular currents constantly in motion. Tho river at this point takes a sudden turn in tho channel, and hero tho stream is of great depth, and largo logs getting into these eddies are often scon wliirling about for many days. A story i.s told of a British soldier, who, ■wishing to desert, attempted to swim tlio river immediately under tho great Falls, but was swept down by tho current and drowned. His body, in liis regimental attire, was seen for a month performing wonderfid evolutions in this mysterious pool. In descending the very difficult path, which you must do to have a proper view of tlio whirlpool, I came suddenly upon a largo snake basking across the ruggetl way. I was not tardy in retracing my steps, you may depend upon it. This description of snako is termed by tlio Indians tho Massasugay, and, I believe, is tho female of the rattlesnake. Its length could not be less than tiireo or four feet. This is tho only instance of my having seen any poisonous reptile in this country. The sides of tho river hero are wild and romantic beyond description, and tho rapids for about a mile above the whirlpool, are superior in respect of scenery to those above tho Falls. The Devil's Hole, about a mile below the whirli)ool, is also worthy of notice for its romantic scenery. 83 I nuiy lioro mriition that mi tlm (.'nuailiaii '^ido tlu-ro h anothor good hn I, ilic I'avilioii, from wliirli ym have a fiiu' panoramic viow, ;u I immciliatrlv ailjoiiiiiit,' is what is callcMl tln> i'ity of tho Falls, wliich city, however, in only yet in embryo, being merely a few neat cottagOH. This was another groat bubble of the day, but whethi" duo to American or Ihitisli tMiterprise, I am unable to rui.iu'. Vi.sitod liUndie's Lane, where one of thu battles was fought in 181 1, as also tint battle ground of Chippewa, both of which arc dwelt upon with great exultation and pride by the Americans, and ; ' considered by them to have been lirilliant ju'ti.jiis. Sp(Mit a d;i !• two visiting the; American .side — Goat Island — Terra|)in Hridgo and Tower, vicinitv are u'cucrallv ui exrell"nt order: but that of Mr. Freeland, [•; 38 I r I i I !'1 about three miles from town, is sufficient to oonvuicc any one of tlio fertility of the land in this part of Canada. The excellcnco of the soil, and the mode of cultivation, could not bo surpassed in the luxuriant districts ot the liOthians; and, indeed, tho character of the proprietor as an agriculturist is known all over the country. Next day at half-past twelve o'clock we left Brockville. In passing along, tho many pleasant villas and large farms. ])articularly that of Mr. Froeland, and one possessed by the late Mr. Longley, have a fine appearance from tho water. Prescott, formerly a great forwarding station, is now almost deserted, and a very miserable-looking town, while Ogdensburg, immediately opposite on tho American side, is a clean-looking place, and of considerable trade — another contrast much in favour of the Americans. This is tho only point the St. Lawrence steamers touch at on the American shore betwixt Kingston and Montreal. Wo soon entered tho (jialoup Rapids, and after passing several smaller curi'cnts, and through scenery of the most imposing and interesting kind, arrived at Dickenson's Landing, immediately above the Long Sault Rapids. At this time the canal was under repair, and we had consequently to take a coach for twelve miles, to Cornwall, over the worst road, I believe, in all North America. Arrived at Cornwall in the evening about ten o'clock, distance from Brockville about eighty miles. Cornwall is a shabby-looking town, and not likely soon to improve. It is something like Washington, a place of magnificent distances — an error vci*y often committed in laying out towns in America, tho desire to have building lots large (tlie ground being cheap), preventing regularity in their streets and buildings. The following day visited the country around Cornwall, which is very far behind in agricultural improvement. To appear- ance tlie soil is very poor, while but little of the land is cleared. In our progress we inspected also the beautiful and stupendous masonry of the black marble locks on the St. Lawrence Canal, con- structed for the purpose of avoiding the Long Sault Kaj)ids, below Dickenson's Landing. The canal is about twelve miles long, of great breadtli, and capable of receiving vessels of large tonnage. It is estimated to have cost four hundred thousand pounds. Having left Cornwall at ten o'clock, r. m., per Highlander steamer, and reached Coteau du Lac, a distance of forty-one miles, about four, A. M., we took coach for fifteen miles to the Cascades, near wliich the Ottawa joins the St. Lawrence; and from thence, by steam, fourteen miles, to Lachinc village. Taking coach again, we were carried over a very superior Macadamized roarl for a distance of l'!l 39 iiino miles, and arrived at this place, the commercial capital of tho Canada?, in timo for breakfast. There is at present a line of small high-pressure steamers, called puffers, that descend tho rapids tho whole distance, one hundred and eighty miles, from Kingston to Montreal, but in these I did not choose to venture. These steamers return by tho llidcau canal, as no steam power could stem tho strong currents of tho St. Lawrence, In my next I shall give you an account of Montreal and its vicinity. Tho impression on my mind, considering the little 1 have seen, is very favourable as regards this city; and, as has been my usual experience in Canada, I am receiving much civility from my friends and acquaintances. Yours, &c, 1 il I I.KTTER NINTH. MoNTitEAL, 27th June, 1843. My Di;ar I liave now been upwards of a week in this vcrv bustling capital of British Xorth America. It is a place of great enterprise, and of much importance. It is locally situated in what was the province of Lower Canada; but from the increasing wealth and prosperity of what is now termed Canada West, it depends more on that district than upon any intercourse with tho Eastern settlements for its rapidly rising ])rosperity as a place of trade. Eastern or Lower Canada, generally, is a miserable atid poor dis- trict of country, chiefly inhabited by tho descendants of the original French Catholic settlors. The hahitans, as they are called, are far from being a stirring or improving race, and refuse to adopt tho most obvious improvements in modern liusbandry. In fact, they aro a class totally devoid of that enterprise which so distinguishes tho British colonists of the upper country. The soil is, I believe from bad farming, annually becoming more and more unproductive; so much so, that though formerly wheat was an article of export to a great extent. Lower Canada now scarcely raises sufficient to main- tain its own population. The island of Montreal, on whicli the town is situated, lies three hundred and ninety-three miles north of New York, two hundred and eighty nortli of Boston, from the lower end of Lake Ontario two hundred miles, and five hundred miles from the mouth of tho noble Kivor St. Lawrence. It is about forty miles in length by ten in breadth, exceedingly fertile, and beautifully diversified with delightfid scenery. Indeed, the view from several parts of tho mountain behind the town is scarcely to be eiiualled in any part of tho world. The soil is very productive, and so well suited for tho growth of fruit-trees, that this island has been styled the garden of Canada. [I 41 TIic city strctclics along tho slioro of tlio magnificent St. liawrcnco for aliont two niilos. I'^i-onting ilio town, on the cast f^ido of tho river, stands tlio Island of St. irclt'n.«, belonging' to Government, on wliicli artillery barracks arc orootcd. Tlic opposite shore ia picturesque, abounding in pretty villages and pleasant villas, and tho view up and down the river, including Nun's Island and several others, is most interesting. On approaching the town by tho Lachino road, tho prospect is really beautiful. The principal object, standing conspicuous above the buildin,i,'s by Avliich it is surrounded, is tho stupendous Catholic Cathedral, wliich, with tho spires of the many other churches and chapels, gives tho stranger a very favourable impressiou of tho city ho is about to enter, Montreal now contains about fifty thousand inhabitants, and tho streets in tho old part of tho city, liko all French towns, arc rather narrow; but since the municipal corporation was established, a few years ago, a great many improvements havo taken place, and tho new streets and squares are elegant and spacious. The warehouses and wharves are scarcely to bo excelled cither in structure or in accommodation. There aro no docks. The vessels lie alongside of the quays in the stream, and ride perfectly safe. The principal export trade of tho port is in lumber, flour, ashes, and provisions. Montreal is pretty well supplied with water, and as tlio corporation is about to take the water works under their superintendence anil control, tlio advantages of a still better sui)ply may bo anticii)ated. .CjO,000 is to be paid to the proprietor, Mr. !Moses Hayes, but tho money will be well laid out, considering the great boon it will secure the inhabitants. Indeed, it would be better, in my opinion, if largo corporations could in all cases undertake tho management of such trusts as water, gas, ifcc. I deem it tpiito unnecessary to enter into any statistical detail of the trade or capabilities of these colonics, as that information is within tho reach of every inquirer; yet I believe there are many, participating with advantage in tho commerce of tho country, who have paid very little attention to the subject, and are wofully ignorant of the history, resources, or ]-reseut political position of JJritish North America. It U a pity that so few of our countrymen avail themselves of tho many opportunities they now havo of visiting thesr provinces, and making themselves acipiaintcd with these subjects, i feci coulident, if a greater intercourse could bo fostered between the mother country and tho North American Colonies, much good might result to both. In general, little or nothing is known af m f m tr; ' t 42 home, by tlio great mass of tlic populatioi), of wliat this Wuo i^ountry i.s, or what it might ultimately bo mailo, if a proper system of emigration were commenced and carried on upon an extensive scale. The Canada Company liaviiig faile(l to realise, in tlieir arrangements witli S(!ttlers, any thing like wli;it was expected of them, our Government ought innnediately to examine and carry out tho schemes of amelioration proposed by that great statesman, now deceased, Lord Sydenham. If these be at once and fully put into operation, the better will it bo for the Canadas, and I tliink also for Great I'ritain. In alluding to tlio ignorance which in many cases prevails at liome regarding this province, 1 may men- tion an instance which recently occurred, and was told mo by a most respectable merchant here. A mercantile liouse in London having occasion to forward a power of attorney for tho recovery of claims in Canada, stated to their correspondent that, before the departure of tlie next mail steamer, they would mako interest at tho Foreign-office to procure and forward a recommendation to tho British Consul at Montreal to render every aid in his power to tho attorney in recovering tho claims ! This I thouglit at tho time a happy illustration of the prevailing ignorance at homo of every thing connected with Canadian affairs. The first two or three days tliat I spent in this city, were cm- ployed in calling upon many private friends and business con- nexions, and I assure you I felt gratified by the great attention shown me. It gives mo much pleasure to state that a more hospi- table and friendly set of people is nowhere to bo met with — kind to a fault, and every one more eager than another in tendering their civilities. To our friend ]Mr. S I owe much. His unfailing politeness to mc personally, and his sound advice on mercantile subjects were freely oftcred, and of considerable benefit. To many others I am equally indebted. Indeed, it is characteristic of tho people, not only in this city, but uniformly throughout the Canadas, to show the greatest attention to strangers. A day or two more was devoted to visiting the surrounding country, in company with attentive friends, who introduced me to several of our countrymen. Amongst the many Glasgow friends I expected to meet in Mon- treal was the editor of the Montreal Herald, tho son of my old friend Mr. Weir, but who, I was sorry to learn, had died a few days previous to my arrival. I was happy to find his talents highly appreciated by his townsmen, and that a public subscription was on foot foi- tlio erection of a monument to his memory. I accompanied a friend on his way to Boston, as far as I;ako 4: Cliamplaiii, wliioli I liaurlington, on tho opposite shore or east side, in the state of Vermont. The II' I 1 ir! M. El 14 steam vessel stops lioro for nln>ut an lidiir. wnilini,' llio iirrivul dI tlio Olio from AVhitcliiill, coinniaiulL'd hy ('a]i(aiii l-voii, wlio is in no way (.leficioiit, in those ^'eiUlenianJj acconipli'-lnncMits (or wliicli his colleague is so j'ustly eelobvated, I'assrngor.s not wishing to go farther up the lake eaii return by tliis vessol, and again be in St. .fohn's next nioniiiig at seven o"cloelc. Had luy time jimnitted, I sliould liavc traversed the entire length of the lake to Whitehall, as I am informed tlio scenery at the u]>per end is very fine, thoiigli not equal by any means to what is])assed from St. John's to l?urlington. The situation of IJurlington is most delightful, on a gcntlo acclivity, rising gradually from the lake. Tlic public buildings generally aro good, and tho university of Vermont, on the suininit of tlie high ground, comniaiuls a splendid view of the lake. Tlierc aro f^everal elegant and large hotel;^, and tlie town contains about three thou- sand iidiabitaiits. I went back with Captain Lyon, from wliom I received much attention, and arrived at St. Jolin'.s about seven tlio following morning. I now thought of returning to Montreal by a dilForent route, and having hired a private conveyance, proceeded to Chambly, along tlio banks of the canal, whicli runs nearly i)arallel with tho river liicliclieu, through a tolerably good agricultural country, nearly all iiiliabited by small farmers, p>riiicii)ally French < 'anadians. Ivoaclied Chambly, twelve miles from St. John's, a very pleasant village, at whicli there is daily steam navigation to Montreal, tliough very circuitous. This is an important military station, there being usually here a considerable body of infantry, besides a troop or two of cavalry; it has also the advantage of excellent barracks, and enclosed ground for exercising the troops. The scenery is very fine, and the road through tlie fiats to Longueuil, fifteen miles, is one of the best in all the Canadas. The farming is pretty good, but the population, nearly all French, partakes much of that apathy and indifference to improvements that characterise tho hahitans of the lower province. Arrived at Longueuil, where I took the steam ferry boat, and was landed about a mile below Mon- treal, arriving iu time for dinner, much delighted with my two days' excursion. In two or three days I shall take my farewell of this fine city, leave witli regret my many friends, and make tlie best of my way to catch the good sliip Iliberiiia at Halifax. I will write you from Quebec any remarks 1 may have to make on that city, and Mill there tell you what route 1 purpose taking to Xova Scotia. So, adieu ; expecting to reach lioinc by tho beginning of August. Yours, itc I IKTTKR TKiNTII, QuEliKC, T'h .Inhi, ISi;}. Mv Deai! Arrnii onjo)ing mvsdf upwards of ten dnys in Montreal. 1 left that delightful city with great regret, fur i never spent my time in a more agreeable niainicr— the attention I received from all partit.'s being truly unprecedented. ( hi the evening of the 3d .Inly, .several of my friends accompanied mc on board the splendid f^tcamer Montreal, a large vessel of groat power, commanded by C.iptaia Armstrong, a gentleman of good address. The steamers on tliis lino arc principally owned by a few of the leading mercliants in the city, and nre not to be excidled in point of accommodation and speed by any on the l.akes. Left at six, P.M. The distance from Montreal to (Quebec is ono hundred and eighty miles, and the voyage is usually performed in from ten to twelve hours. As the trip is mostly by night, much of tlio pleasure is lost to strangers, and but little opportunity afforded of witnessing the face of the country along the shores of tlic great St. Fiawrence. The view on leaving Montrc.nl, for many miles on either side ot the river, is beautiful. The strong fortifications and barracks on the Island of St. Helens have a commanding appearance. About ten miles on the south side wo passed the village of Boucherville, where the -reat fire a few days previous had completely destroyed nearly the wbolc town. It is supposed to have originated from the burn- incr flakes of wood from the funnel of a steam boat. This is likely for a time to occupy the gentlemen of the long robe, as tlie insu- rance companies have threatened legal proceedings against the principal owner of the steamer. Tlie scenery here for several miles, and, indeed, all the way to 1 .ake St. Peter, is very fine. About n. no o'clo.d. we stopped at Sorel, at tlie junction of tlie river KicUelieu with the St. I.awrencc, landed a great many passengers, and took I i t , I. ;; • }• ■■ ' T. ■ : ■ ' E ; f , . 40 in wood. Sort'l is n. niiiitary jxi'^t, at \vlii(!li >oino oompaiiit's of tlio ri.st Kegimont are statioiicil. I^Hscd 'I'lncc UivorM, tlio capital vt' tlio district, n small town midway between <,Miel>ee and Montreal. There are valualde iron works, belonuint^ totlie lion. Mr. Hell, ,m)uU! di».tanee from tlio town. TIk; iron i'^ of e.xcellent (|iiality, and the -toves and otlier similar artiides mannfaetnred fi'om it, are snperior and preferred l)j tliu inhabitants to those imported. 'I'lieso works arc held by lease from (Jovernment. Next morning, by break of day, tiie heights of the magnificent fortress of (^uebce were in view for about si.\ miles. The elVrct j»rodiK;e(l on the mind on n|)]troa<'h ing tii(? city cannot be well tloscribed. The river begins to e.xpand to a great width, and the nnmoron.s and very extensive timber e.ovcs in view, gives to the stranger a most favourable idea of tlie great importance of (^)iiebecas a shipping port, and conveys at once to the mind the value of the timber trade to the shipping interests of (jireat IJritain. Landed early in the morning, and proceeded to Payne's liotel, in tlie upper town, wliere I enjoyed a comfortable breakfast. Calleil ou .several of my fellow-pas.scngers on board the llibernia; after- wards, accom])anied by a gentleman to wlioin 1 liad a letter from his brother in Montreal, iirocnred a carriage to visit tlie h'alls of Montmorency, which are very ])icturos(pie, and inspected the .saw mills of Mr. I'aterson, in the neighbourhood, one of tho largest establishments of the kind in tlie rroviuce, and well worth a stranger's notice. The .'^cencryon tho road, both going and return- ing, is very tine. Next day took an excursion on tiie St. Foy road overlooking the St. Charles river. Mucli delighted with the taste so conspicuously apparent in the stylo of the villas, particularly that of Mr. Gibb, where 1 dined and spent a pleasant afternoon. On the forenoon of that day, visited the Indian village — a complete humbug, and not worth the trouble of going to see. The roads to it arc most execrable. The view from the citadel or Capo Diamond is enchanting, and tho environs of (Quebec abound in tlie most romantic and charming scenery, certainly not erpuiUcd in all tho Canada.s. The towns and villages, the surrounding mountains, the St. liawrence, and the St. Charles, with the Island of Orleans between the shores, form the most magnificent view I ever beheld; ind(.'od, the boa.stf-d Bay of Naples will not gain much in the comi)arisou. The w.alk along the ramparts, the view from the top of tho .signal house, tlie river up and down, the cliain of mountains extending to Cape Tour- nent on the one hand, and, on the other, the smaller group of hills 47 fctniiiiiu" til'' pnrfjil tn tlio wilrliTiicsH (jxtoiidiiij,' towiinls lliul^toii's May. lonii-i ii splcinliil panorama. Towards sunset tlio viow is |)avfi('iil;irly plcnsinn'. < JIUtciiiiiLr in tlic ili>tanrt,' is tlic rivor tSt. Cliarlrs, \vlii(;li falls info the St, FJ?his country for several miles lias now been given over by the treaty to the Americans ; and it is a general regret that a district once Jjritish, containing a great proportion of tlie earliest settlers, should now be transferred to American sway. Had our negotiators known the value of this region as a timber country, they would have thought twice before ceding it. In tlio interior and on the banks of the principal streams, the loftiest forests arc abandoned to the Americans entirely, whereas the country wo retain towards the shores of the St. Lawrence, is poor and unpro- ductive, and nearly cleared of all the valuable timber. The Ameri- cans knew what they were contending for. The timber being scarce and little mineral property or internal resources in the State of Maine, it was an object with them to obtain for it this portion of territory, as thereby they would secure a valuable timber trade on the large tributary streams to the St. John, and create wealth and prosperity to a state — ono of the poorest and most unpi'oductivo in the Union. The dissatisfaction of those settlers who formerly were vnider British protection is now so manifest, that many of them have, since the treaty, crossed over and settled on the English side. A great advantage has nevertheless been secured to Great Britain by the Ashburton treaty, for had the Americans fully succeeded in their preposterous claims, the sacriiicc on the part of Britain would not have been confined to the loss of a certain number of square miles, or a million or two of acres, but the direct conmiunication by land between Nova Scotia and tlic Canadas, would have been entirely cut ofi", and, if so, those important Colonics in a very short period might have passed entirely from British to iVmerican pro- tection. Lodged same night at the pitiful Canadian farmer's v,-]io brought me to Green Biver, and who had promised previously to leaving Little Falls to proceed immediately on arriving at his domicile 54 n,' with mc in his own canoe to the dlrand I'all,'?, a distance of about forty-fivo miles ; but on arriving at his liabitation the canoe was not in tho way, being lent to a neighbour for a Sunday's excursion, so that I had no alternative but to remain under his roof, where I spent a miserable night, from the annoyance of bugs and otiicr et cetera. I may remark liere that altliongli I have repeatedly felt inconvenience from cattle of tliis sort, 1 have never as yet been attacked by the blood-sucking musiiuitoos, which so many of our modern tourists avail tliemsclves of describing as one of tho chief annoyances the stranger has to encounter. Started at sunrise on Monday the 10th, and after a pleasant trip arrived at the Grand Falls about twelve o'(,'lock. The canoes cannot come nearer the Falls tlian about a mile, and then are carried over a considerable isthmus or neck of land where they arc again put into the river below tlic Falls. The scenery here is most romantic. In the neighbourhood of the Grand Falls are Sir John (JoldweU's very extensive saw mills. Here I found another detachment of the surveying engineers and commissioners bivou- acking, one encampment consisting of Mr. Leo and the American enaiucers; tho other of Mr. Featherstonhauuh, the British com- missioner; Captains Kobinson and Broughton, «fcc. Tho latter two gentlemen having been fellow-passengers with mc in the Ilibernia, by their kindness I obtained one of the batteaus belonging to tho party, and with two men, one a blustering Irishman who professed great experience in navigating the river, and the other a stupid French Canadian wiio could speak but little English, set off for Woodstock. Tho river, after leaving the Grand Falls, runs for several miles througli a deep gorge, contracting greatly, with liigli precipitous rocks on each side, completely inaccessible. The cur- rent is very strong, and from being so confined, there is an amazing depth of water. "We had not proceeded far till a tremendous thun- der storm came on, accompanied witli such heavy and continued rain that wo were actually necessitated to run asliore several times and bale the water out of the batteau. The lightning was terrifi- cally grand and most vivid, and in darting up from the horizon bad tho appearance of a spiral screw; in fact it seemed like artificial fire-works, and very different from anything ever seen in our coun- try. In about two hours tho storm abated, though it still con- tinued to rain heavily. Went asliore at a small ])ublic liouse about ten miles down, and remained about an liour, when the rain appeared to take off, but it was (^nly for a little; for no sooner wero wc airain in the batteau tlian it re-commenced worse than ever. 5r} Wc carried on tlirouijli a succcssidii of rapidss by ikj means very pleasant, and tlic nitijlit being wet and dark, not altogether I'rec from risk. [ had intended to continue during the night, expecting to arrive at Woodstock, about sixty-five miles from the Grand I'alls, in time for the coach that starts twice a-wcok for Fredericton, but au occurrence, attended with no inconsiderable danger, induced mo to change my mind. The Irishman, who considered himself the com- modore, with all his preteudoa superior knowledge and experi- ence iu navigating the river, run us on the rocks about midnight, in the middle of the stream, and in one of the great ;t and most dangerous rapids, a few miles above River de Shutc. Luckily the boat, whicli touched only at the bow, immediately swung round and got clear oft", but wo run the greatest risk of being swamped and carried down by the current. Travelling by canoe at this sea- son is exceedingly hazardous, there being far too little water iu tho river for the safe navigation of the rapids. In the spring or autumn months, liowever, or after a rainy season, the coming down tho river by canoo or battcau is not generally attended with any un pleasant consequences. After this I thought it imprudent to con- tinue on any account under night, and resolved to bi-ing up at tho River do Shutc, which wo did at a solitary and miserable public house, where there was little accommodation and poor faro, and where I obtained with some difficulty a rizzared herring for supper. Sleepless night, and greatly fatigued. Next morning by break of day the weather being fine, embarked again, and arrived at Woodstock about one o'clock. Tliink of my disai»poiutraent, the coach was off in tho morning, and no other conveyance for two days! After earnest inquiry for the means of prosecuting my journey, 1 learned that the butclicr of the place kept a machine for his own use, and on submitting to his cupidity, ho condescendingly agreed to conduct mo to Frcderictou, a dis- tance of about sixty miles, for which wc started late in the evening. The road from Woodstock is very pretty for a considerable way along the river. Iloulton Fort and barracks, on the American lines, is within twelve miles of Woodstock. a^A vast number of low islands and dry gravel banks — several good-looking comfortable farm houses, and tlie land well cultivated and seemingly productive. Great quantity of timber lying on the shores, and on tho shoals and islands in the river, which, owing to tho very low state of the water, cannot be launched into the stream. There are a vast uumhor of people engaged in the lumber trade in all its various departments, such as " river draining," which is running tho wood 1 H Mi I i! 50 out of tlic various tributaries into tlu; niaui cliannol — " rafting," or picking up — forming into rafts, &c. &c. Tlio smaller rafts arc floated down to the Frcncli village, thirteen miles above Frederic- ton, and to Springliill, live miles lower, wiiere they arc united together into largo ones of from three to four thousand tons, on which each proprietor erects liis own hut, and nnitually assists in navigating these immense rafts down to Indian Town, where they are broken up and the timber run over the I'^alls to 8t. John's, one mile below. On the St. Lawrence oven larger rafts are to be scon than on the St. John. About thirty miles from Woodstock, slept at a poor inn, usually frequented by lumberers, labourers, and such people as are employed on the river. Passed M'liacli- lan's country residence, a very pretty place, about five miles from Frcdericton. Reached Frodericton next day by twelve o'clock. Road for the last twenty miles very romantic though rough and hilly, and in several places great difficulty in getting on from the destruction of bridges, and deep ravines formed in many places by the deluges of the recent spring. Fredericton, the capital of the Province, is pleasantly situated on the river St. John, and a place of considerable trade. Left same evening, by steamer, at six o'clock for the city of St. John's, where I arrived early next morning. The sail down the river, I think, is superior, in point of variety and fine scenery, even to the far-famed Hudson. The declining sun sinking below the horizon, and the moon, at the full, rising magnificently in the east, gave to the rich and varied scene a grandeur really sublime. 1 remained upon deck a great part of the night, contemplating with pleasurable emotions the delightful scenery generally, and the many pretty and prosperous villages on both sides of the river, as well as the several large and fertile islands with which it abounds. Indeed, although I had been inclined to go below, little comfort or rest could be expected, as from the continual letting out and taking in of passengers at the many landing places, the jargon and clatter of tongues was such that no person c luld possibly sleep. About thirty-five miles above St. John's, at the junction of the Grand Lake with the main river, wo encountered a vast quantity of timber in largo rafts, coming from the fine wood districts on the borders of the Lake. In dark nights great care is necessary in navigating the steamers during the timber season, as even on the St. John some small snags arc occasionally met with. Gage Town, a considerable place, nearly opposite to where the Grand Lake falls into the St. John. Tlio distance from Frcdericton to St. John's is about eighty -five miles, 57 and the sconory on tlio whole is magniticcnt. liandcd at Indian Town, one mile above the city, as the tide wonld not admit of going down tlio Falls. Tlie I'alls at St. John's area groat curiosity; form- ing as it were a natural lock hctwixt the uppor and lower navigation. This arises from tlie respective levels of tlie river and the waters of tlie Bay of Fundy, Tlie body of the river is about seven- teen feet above low water mark, and the rise of spring tides is about thirty feet. When the tide lias Howed or ebbed, to the level of the river, the Falls are smooth and passable for a short period, and the navigation can be cftected either up or down without any inconvenience ; but the steamers and other craft which ascend or descend oven wlum the tide so suits, require to be conducted by experienced pilots. Scarcely landed when I learned that the steamer which was to cross the liay of Fundy for Nova Scotia was to leave at ten o'clock, therefore, to my great regret, had no opportunity of visiting the many friends wlio expected me. St. John's is a handsome town, containing about thirty thousand of a bu.sy and active population. The day was splendid, and the sail from St. John's across the IJay of Fundy and through the Gut into Digby Basin most interesting, and from thence to Annapolis, the scenery cannot be surpassed in any district of Nova Scotia. The land .seems well cultivated, and the farm steadings comfortable and in capital order. The earliest emigrants all settled hero. Arrived at Annapolis in the afternoon — beautiful scenery around — handsome houses and villas in the town — English appearance — hawthorn hedges — I am told these are rarely to be mot with in Nova Scotia. As there are no public conveyances but twice a-week to Windsor, left same evening in a waggon, and slept at a very nice clean hotel in the pretty town of Bridgeton, Kfteen miles off. Started at six o'clock, breakfasted at Wilmot, at one Gibbon's, a prosperous and canny Aberdoniaii, from whom 1 procured a very fine black bear cub, which I intend taking homo with me. As I had little time to spare, pu.slied on same night to Windsor, passing Kentville, Cornwallis, llorton, &c. ttc. Windsor is a pretty town — long wooden bridge across the Avon — tide rises a great height at the harbour, say from fifty to sixty feet, and at several places on the shores of tiic Basin of Minas, and the upper end of the Bay of i*'undy, even to a greater height. I'rincipal trade siiipping of gypsum from the <[uarries of Judge Ihdiburton (Sam Slick), which is brought to the .sliore by a short railroad, the only one, I believe, either in Nova Scotia or New Brunswick. 1 I . 1 ' 58 liCft VViiulsoi' at eight in tlio inoniiiig by coach — conductod in good style — capital cattle — haiidsonio harncs.s— ami little inferior to an English turn-out. The roads are excellent from Windsor to Halifax, the wliole line of country seems fertile and pretty well cultivated, and that part of the road along the basin is particularly pictures(pio. Passed the Duke of Kent's villa in ruins. This house was erected by him whilst Governor of the Province. My time in Halifax was so limited that I had not au opportunity of seeing much either of tho city or of the country around. I feel sadly annoyed at having ma-(o up my mind to leave by tlie nibernia; for, had I allowed rayse'f a fortnight more, 1 might have not only seen Pictou, Miramichi, and the whole of Nova Scotia, but also Cape Breton, I'rince Edward's Island, and the lower and southern parts of New Brunswick, having had a kind invitation to visit Mr. Wilson at St. Andrews, a gentleman deeply engaged in tiio timber trade, and proprietor of large saw mills, An:., and wlio was a passenger out in tho Ilibernia. Halifax is an important town, lying on the western side of a fine harbour, three or four miles from the sea. The streets are regular and well paved, and the public buildings produce a pleasant archi- tectural effect. The commerce of tlie place consists chiefly in tlic export of timber and provisions, and the import of manufactured goods, principally from England. It has also a great fisliing trado and considerable intercourse with tho West Indies. The article of Ice, which is a commodity of great export at Boston, freighting annually a number of vessels from that port, is also shipped from Halifax to the West Indies, cxistcil anionjj;.st th(! passcni,'crs, and the same nnitorm attention exjwrienced in tho outward passage has been .sliown by .ludkins and all hifi ofKcers. Tlu) table, nnder the mana^^ement of Mr. Kmans, is amply fur ni>hed, and the stewards and assistants all civil and oldiiiiiiLt in per fornun^' their varied and onerous duties. Tlie character of the vessel in every j)articular lias been maintained, and the result of the voyage eomi)lotely confirms the remarks which were made in tho provincial i)aper.s at homo and in America on her Hrst trip. " That the lliberiiia would turn out a cli|>per in steam." l-'ivc oVlock, p. .M., reached the Hell Ihioy, considered tiio tcr mination of the voyage, wliicli lias been the «[uickest over performed from Halifax to iiiverpool, either by steam or sailing vessel; and I think it must now be fairly admitted that she is tho fastest .steam craft that ever crossed the Atlantic; and as this cntei'prising com pauy will recpiire a new vessel to rephue llie (.'olumbia, 1 would advise tliem to deviate as little as pos.-ilde in her construction fi'om the Hiberuia; for though tho science and inventive jjowcr of our friend Napier are as fresh ankill, it may bo prudent to remember tho adage, " ir/nH irdl keep well." Tho log amiexed will give an idea of the average sj)eed of the vessel sirco we left Halifax: — At noon on Wednesday, tho day after we sailed, had run two hundred and thirty-four miles — Thursday, two hundred and fifty- live — Friday, tuo hundred anil seventy-six — Saturday, two hundred and seventy-seven — Sunday, two hundred and seventy-one — Mon- day, two hundred and eighty-three — Tuesday, two hundred and ninety — Wednesday, two hundred and ninety — and up to Friday at five I'. M., three hundred and fifty miles — entire distance computed at two thousand five hundred and twenty six miles, in nine days and three hours. N. B. — The weather was so thick and foggy in coming uj) channel, that, as no observation could be made, wo went considerably out of our course, which lost several hours. Had this not occurred, F l»elieve the actual distance could have been done in eight days and ten hours. 4 U Hl;l.l. AM) Il.M.N, L'KI.NXIiUS, UI-ASUOW, \ t i't lias, )aii- ig.st tlio crs. fiir- tlio It of .' ill trip, tcr iiumI anil cam !om ould TOlll our L'.SSOl riucr keep ;d ol two ifty. drcd Mou- and ay at >ntod day.s .iinel, ut of Dd, I 3 and