IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
k
A
£/ /a
<^%
A
1.0
I.I
ISA
us
■u
1^ 1^
i& 2.0
1.8
1.25 1.4
1.6
"^
6" -
►
V
^wa8 re-
ferredf Ueport:
That they have examined the subject referred to them by the abftv?,
resolution, with the attention due to its intrinsic importance, as well :s
to the recommendation of the President of the United States, and have,
as they trust, impartiallv estimated the advantages and disadvantages
of the domain of the United States on the Pacific Ocean, particularly
as to its climate, soil, trade, hunting, fishing, ca^jability of defence^
interior resources, &c.
In this examination they did not confine themselves to the region of
the Columbia River, but (as far as they had the means) they extended
it to the territory which is bounded on the North by De Fuca's Strait,
whose waters approach that river within the distance of a few m\l^;
and as the resolution (without defining the limits of the voyage) propo-
ses an exploration of the Northwest Coast, as well as the establish-
ment of a post, they concluded that it would violate no i-ule of propriety
or of cori-ect parliamentary proceeding, to include this country within
the sphere of their examination, particularly as the expediency of a
military establishment must be ascertaine'' rinntvcnliit^, and appavontly well inhabited.'* He speaks also of th«
[ Rep. No. 85, 3
Tery great difference between the Asiatic and American Coasts, a dif-
ference altogether in favor of t!ie latter.
Portlock, speaking of the climate at Cook's River, lat. 61, ^August
9,) says: " During the late stormy weather the air had been mild and
« temperate, and I am inclined to think the climate here is not so sc-
*< vere as has been generally supposed." The hills were clothed with
pines and shrubs, and the landscape beautiful and picturesque. Dixon,
who accompanied Porti^ick, complains of the cold and damp of the cli-
mate, but say): ^* In the early part of August it had become very mo-
" derate."
Of Prince William^s Sound, lat 60, Portlock says: "The country,
^* after the snow leaves it, which is about the middle of June, is plea- '
'* sant enough ; the weather, long before iha\': period, at times, is very
*^ fine and pleasant and at other times exc^^cdingly boisterous, with
" constant rain, which washes the snow away, and soon leaves the lower
" parts clear, and you immediately perceive vegetables coming forth."
Dixon says that, on the 29dth of August, he found the weatiicr mode-
rate.
At Pwt Mulgrave, lat 59, in May, he found the climate « tolerably
<* mild, the mean of the thermometer being 46."
In June, at Norfolk Sound 57° S', the mean of tlic *'-■ mometer was
48; winds light; << shores abounding in wild fruit.*'
At Port Banks he says the appearance of the country in the same
months, was <^ truly pleasing and delightful, and tlie weather very
»• fine;^' mean of the thermometer 50.
At Queen Charlotte's Islands, between 54° 24' and 51° 42', in Au-
gust the weather was generally mild and temperate; mean of the ther-
mometer 54.
Cook, speaking of the climate of Nootka,49° 30', as he experienced
it, from March 29 to April 26, says, "the weathei* nearly corresiwnded
" with that which we had experienced when we were oiT the coast;
** We had fine clear weather if the wind was between North and West;
*< but if more to the Southward, hazy, accompanied with rain. The
** climate appears to be infinitely milder than that on the coaal of Ame •
" rica, under the same parallels of latitude. We perceived no froiit in
" any of the low grounds, but on the contrary, vegetition pi-ocecJed
" briskly, for we saw grass at this time upwai-ds of a foot long."
On the Atlantic coast, in the same parallels of latitude, the incle-
mency of the climate is proverbial: and, although the daring enterprise of
Famft stimulated by the love of science and the hope of renown, has
induced him to explore that country, yet it is a region of icebergs, famine^
and eternal fi-ost a place of horrid sterility and utter desolation.
The Pacific Ocean, through a space of seventy-six degi-ees of Iati«
IwJc, equally extended on both sides of the equator, is seldom disturbed
by storms, and, throughout this wide extent, the summer seenjs pcr-
mtual. The voyage of Captain Bligh, of the Bownty, fi-om the Society
Islands to Timor, in the East ln Oce^u is uninterrupted. -
C Hep. No. 85. ]
8
The committee, after beiisg satisfied of the general character of the
<-Kmatc, dii-ected their attention more particularly to that part of it
which is claimed by the United States.
On the 25th of Februai'y, Capt Cook, in his voyage from tlie Sand
wich Islands to the Northwestern Coast, had reached lat 42° 30' and
long. 219. On the 1st of March (says he) *^ we had acalm day, wluch
" was succeeded by a wind from the North, with which we stood to the
*' East, intending to make land. We ought to have been near it ac-
*' cording to the chai*ts. Such moderate and mild weather appeared
** to us very extraordinary whenwe were so far North, and so near an
** extensive continent, at tliis time of year."
Mr. Prevost, the agent of tlie United States, whose attention waa
particularly directed to this subject by the Grovernment, in a commu-
nication made by him to them, and communicated, by message, from
the President to the House of Representatives, (April 17, 1822,) says:
" It has been observed by those exploring this coast, that the climate
<^ to the Soutliward of 53 assum^ts a mildness unknown in the same
** latitude en the Eastern side of the continent. Without digressing to
« speculate upon the cause, I will merely state that such is particularly
« the fact in 46° 16', the site of Fort George. The mercury, dur-
*< ingthe Winter, seldom descends below the freezing point; when it
" does so, it is rarely stationary for any number of days, and the se-
** verity of the season is more determined by tlie quantity of water than
'< by its congelation. The rains usually commence with November,
** ai :d continue to fall partially until the latter end of March or the be^
'' ginning of April. A benign Spring succeeds, •and when the Summer
" heats obtain, they are so tempered with showers as seldom to^sus-
** pend vegetation. I found it luxuriant on my arrival, (October 1,
*' 1818,) and, during a fortnight's stay, experienced no diange of wea-
** tber to retard its course."
Lewis and Clarke, who remained here from November, 1 805, to the
succeeding Spring, complain, it is true, of the frequent rains, but it
must be recollected, that they experienced no sickness during that
worst period of the year. The humidity of the coast, may be attributed
to physical causes, operating upon a small part of this great Territo-
ry. The vapours of the ocean, falling upon the high and mountainous
lands, which form the coast, are ai-restcd in their progress, and des-
cend in copious rains, but the same causes produce in the interior a
climate of uncommon mildness — the coast being like an immense
wall, protecting the rich valleys witliin, frem the rude blasts of the
ocean. Between this mountainous ridge, along the coast, and the chain
of mountains which cross the Oregon, at the lowest falls, lies the rich
valley of the Columbia. Beyond, and between this chain and the
Rocky Mountains, tlie count! y, for several hundred miles in lengtbt
and about fiuy wide, is described by Lewis and Clarke, as a high level
plain, in all its parts extremely terttlc. « Nearly the whole of this
»< wide spread tract (say they) is covered with u profui^ion of grass and
** plants, which were at this time (May 16) as high as the knee. —
'< Amongst ilicm^ are a vai'idty uf t»iculeut. plants and roots, acqulr^
tRep. No. 35.]
« without much difliculty, and yielding, not only a nutritious, hut a ve-
#4 ry agreeable food. The air is pure and dry, the climate quite a«
«< nnld, if not milder than the same ])arallels of latitude in the Atlantic
<< Sl^t^es, and must be equally healthy. In short, this district aifoitls
*« many advantages to settlers, and if properly cultivated, would yield
« every object necessary for the subsistence and comfort of civilized
« man." It must be remembered that this description is applied to a
high and mountainous plain, elevated several thousand feet above the
level of the ocean, where a very groat degree of cold might have been
expected, even in latitudes near the tropics.
To return to the country between the lowest falls on the Columbia
and the ocean. As the committee have thought it extremely probable,
that the first establishment of the United States, (if made at all) would
be made in this i*egion, they have deemed it expedient to collect some
information (which they have gathered principally from the travels of
Lewis and Clark'j) of the country which extends from the point where
the tide water is terminated, at tlie foot of the first rapids, to the ocean,
a distance of one hundred and seventy-eight miles. Directly below
the falls, is an island of a mile in width, and extending down the river
three miles; "the situation high and open, tlie land rich, and at this
'< time ( N ovember 2) covered with grass, and a great number of straw-
*< berry vines. To this island, succeeded th:'ee small islands, covered
" with wood." At a place where the mountains receded from the ri-
ver, distant twenty-nine miles from the termination of the rapids, tliey
rested. Here tlie river was two and a half miles wide, ♦« the low
<< grounds were, extensive, and well supplied with wood." There they
saw great numbers of water -fowl, such as swans, geese, ducks, of va-
rious species, gulls, plover, and the white, and gray bi-ant. At the
distance of six miles, they reached Quicksand river; here there was
another island, three and a half miles in length, and a mile and a
half in width; immediately below which, there was another island,
which they called Diamond island. " Below Quicksand river, the
^< country is low, rich, and thickly wooded on each side the Columbia."
'the islands have less timber, but are furnished with a number of ponds,
"near which, are vast quantities of water fowls." The river was
wide, and many sea ottera were sporting in its waters. Diamond isl*^
and is six miles long and three broad, directly below which, are two
other islands, thickly covered with wood. At this place tliey were
treated with a root, similar to tlie Irish potato, called Wappatoo:
'* roasted until it becomes soft, it has an agreeable taste, and is a ve-
" ry good substitute for bread." Seven miles further, they came to
another large island. «* On the right shore, is a fine open prairie, for
<< about a mile, back of which, the country rises, and is supplied with
« timber, such as white oak, pine, of different kinds." &c. This isl-
and is nine miles in length, near it, are two smaller islands. Nine
miles further, " the gnnmds along the river continue low and rich;
<' on the right, the low grounds are terminated at the distance of five
<* miles, by a range of high hills, covered witli tall timber." The
game, as usiial, very abundant. Eight miies beiow, mey reaiched aiior
t
*
[Kep. No. 85.]
I
♦
ther island, which was "open, with an abundant grrtwth of grass,
*< with a number of ponds," filled with wild fowl. On this island,
they saw many deer. Near this island, wei-c two or three smaller
ones. Seven miles below, they found the river a mile and a half in
width, and the watei* deep. ♦* Here the ri* and left, it extends to a great distance. It is a fertile and delight-
" ful country, shaded by thick groves of tall timber, watered by small
" ponds, and running on both sides of the ri^er. The soil is rich, an«l
" capable of any species of culture, but in the present condition of the
" Indians, its chief production is the waj)patoo root, which gi*ows spon-
*' taneously, and exclusively, in this region. Sheltered as it is, pn
*< both sides, the tem|)eraturc is much milder than that of the sur-
<< I'ounding country; for, even at this season of the year, (November
*< 5) we observed very little appearance of frost.'*
It is well known, tluit these adventurous travellers continued their
voyage to tlie mouth of the river, discovering ir: their progi-ess many
other islands. The country, as they ad> anced towards the ocean, be-
came more mountainous, but wherever the mountains receded from the
river, the level country was fertile and beautiful.
Ca])tain Clarke explored about thirty miles of coast. South of the
mouth of the river; he gives the following de«eription of a view from
the top of <\ mountain, on the .summit of which was an open spot, facing
the ocean. " projecting nearly two milts and a-half into the sea. Here
" (says he) one of the most delightful views in nature presents itself.
" Immediately in front is the ocean, which breaks with fury on the
*' coast, fi^om the rocks of Cape Disappointment, as far as the eye can
'< discern to the Northwest, and against the highlands and irregular
"piles oflrocks, which diversify the slioi-e to the Southeast To this
" boistei"ou8 scene, the Columbia, with its tributary waters, widening
" into bays as it approaches the ocean, and studde<' on both sides with
"the Chinnook and Clatsop villages, forms a :^ arming contrast:
" while immediately beneath our fe«t, are sti*etched the rich prairies,
"enlivened by thi-ee beautiful sti'cams, which conduct the eysto small
« lakes at the foot of the hills."
Vancouver describes the apijearjince of the coast, lat. 46° 14' with
animation and elegance. " I'he country now before us, (says he) prc-
"sented a most luxuriant landscape, and was probably not a little
« heightened in beauty by the weather that prevailed. (April 27.) Tho
" more intei'ior par*s were somewhat elevated, and agreeably diversi-
" fied with hills, from which it gradually descended to the shore, and
"terminated in a sandy beach. The whole had the appearance of a
" continued forest, extending as far North as the eye could reach, which
" made me very solicitous to find a port, in the vicinity of a country
"presenting so delightful a pi-ospectof fertility;" which, after attempt-
ing in vain, itigretUng his riisuppuiniment, he "itsumed ids route
" along the shores of this pleasant country."
r Rep. No, 35, j
vey of the mouth of S e ^"4" ^.T^"^''^^ ^'^^ ««-ected a partial sur-
countrj., about a nverVhich hi ?•.''* ^^.' ^^^^O «peaking if Sj
Georgp Young, says, ' The If.? f'«^"'S"i«''«'i ^y thr„a„.c?o su'
'• ceasing until da/jiffht the S*:'^^'''»**''>:^ '* rained wi hout
;and g^atly enriched tfeV^^^^^^^^^ ^'»9!.' ,^vas very pleasant,
" ^y- From tlie banks if thoT^, . beautiful suri-oun
mcation from Major Alexander S. Jhwiks, u gallant and intdHigent
officer, now in the artillery service of the United States, who in early
lile made several voyages to this coast Si^aking of the climate at the
mouth of the Columbia, he says, it is ♦•good, m growth, fir and its
" varieties; no hardwood, excep; you so call alder. We found araone
♦* the drift wood, beech, bass, Ace. (very rarely) maidc." Again, *< with
•• regard to soil, I should think it better than generally represented.
* The natives procui-e a root, which they call Wapputoo, about the size
"ol a wallnut, and when baked, a very tolerable substitute for potato.''
>' Ihc shores of the river abound with game, as moose, deer, bear. &c
*• and Its waters with fish—salmon, sturgeon, &c."
Mr. Prevost, in his letter to the Secretary #f State, says, "The soil
'' 18 good; all the cereal gramina and tuberous plants, may be cultiva-
" ted with advantage; and the waters abound in salmon, stureeon and
** other varieties offish." °
"The ocean teems with otter, the seal, and the whale; while the
« mam land a^rds, in innumerable quantities, the common otter, the
*' bear, the buffalo, and the whole varietv of deer."
The Committee have collected some 'facts, respecting the soil and
appearance of this coast north of the Oregon or Columbia river Van
jyuvcr, after passing the mouth of tliis river, as before related,* spoki
Captjun Gray of Boston, then on the Coast, and who, while command!
ing the Washington m 1789, had re-discovered the lost strait of De
tuca, which he explored for fifty miles. After receiving from Gray
intormation of its position, he continued his course Nortlif and entered
It in lat 48» 37, (according to Gray's reckoning, wWch Vancou^
supposes t«o far North, )..nS places in 48° 234'; Imving pS Ta!
tooche's Island, connected with the promontory of Cap^Classet (tL
Cape Flattery of Cook, ) by a ledge o( rocks. ^ ^ ^^^^
This island he describes as «'half a league in circuit, bearine*
vei^ant aiid foilile appearance, without tr?es." He contin^d hit
course up this celebr M strait on its South side. "ThesE (hi
*;says) on each side t^cstrait, ai* of moderate height; and the d^ght*
«• ful serenity ol the weather, permitted our seeing this inlet t» erreK
f hftn^^'i -S^ pcrpendicu m.|y on beaches of sand or stones. From
^ the topol tliesc cliffy eminences, the land app..ared to take afurth™
"gentle moderate ascent, and was entirely covered with trees cSv
"of the pine tribe, until the forest reached a range of high cra^^J
^•mountains, which seemed to rise from the woodland counti^f^J
"very abrupt manner, with a few scattered trees on their steril^sides
"and their summits covered with snow." Latitude at nS^48o ig'I
He anchored at night, j«>ar a sandy point of land, which he called JvX;
"of most
.^" ,- . J r""" "* ***""> w^iicn ne caiiea jvvy/i*
;*i r"iYp ^ 'T^ "Y ^''*^'* ^"^ ^^ ushered^in by a mominff
t ddightful pleasant weather." - ys\ faund the surface o7thf
8 [Rep. No. 85.]
" sea a!mas( coveicd w ith aquatic birds, of various kinds. Tlie tirsi
" opening to the S. K. ap^H-ared to be I'ornii'd by two big-b bluHls; tliP
** elevated land within them, seemingly at a considerable distance. It
« pi-oved, however, to be a close and compact shoir, the a|>paiTnt va-
'' cant space being occupied by a very low sandy bcacli, ott' which ex-
<* tended a Hat, ol" very shallow soundings. P'roni lience, we nuule tin*,
« best ofourway for land, appearing like an island off the other sup|)osed
" opening; from \^ hose summit, m liich apjsearcd easy of access, there
" was little doubt of our ascertaining whether the coast afforded any
" port within i-each of the day's excursion." Here this plain and unso-
phisticated sailor, breaks fortli in a strain of descriptive clo(picnce,
which nothing but tiic transcendant beauty of the pr<»spect could have
inspired. "On landing (says he) on the West end of the suppose'^
«' island, and iLscemling its eminence, which was nearly a pcriMMulici.
<< lar cliff, our attention was inunediately called to a landscape, al-
*< most as enchantingly beautiful as the most elegantly iinishcd pleasure •
*' grounds in Europe. Fmni the height we wore now upon, our con-
" jectures, of this land being an island, situated before the entrance of
« an opening in the main land, were confirmed. The summit of this
'< island presented nearly an horizontal surface, interspersed with
** some inequalities of groimd, which produced a beautiful variety, on an
*< extensive lawn covered with luxuriant gi-ass, and diversified with an
** abundance of llowere. To the Northwestward, was a copicc of pine
" trees, and shrubs of various sorts, that seemed as if it had been plant-
« cd for the sole purjwse of pi"otecting from tlie N, W. winds, this de-
"lightful meadow, over which, were jn'onuscnously scattered a fcw
« clumps of trees, that would have puzzled the most ingenious design-
"crof pleasure grounds, to have arranged more agreeably. Whilst
«erl'ectly satisfied with
''the success of our cxpe D^T-^®'' *^°»<^^"^e8 »»« account of the country in the neighborhood
ot Port Discovery, witii several observations touching its soil and pro.
ductjons. ♦'This country (says he,) may generally be considered of a
♦'moderate height, although bounded on the West side by mountains
"covered with snow, to which the land from the water's edge rises
VHi a pleasing diversity, by hills of gradual ascent The fnow on
"these hills pi-obably dissolves as the Summer advances, for pine trees
M ei e piwluced on tlieir very summits. On the sea-shore, the land
"generally terminated in low sandy cliffs; though in some spaces of
<> considei-able extent, it ran neai-ly level from high water mark. The
«< soil, for the most part, is a light sandy loam, in several placesof verr
cimsiderable depth, and abundantly mixed >.ith decayed vegetables*.
"1 lite vigor and luxuriance of its productions proved it to be a rich fer-
«Wemoul4, whichpossiblymigiit be considerably improved Tiytheaddi-
■ won of caJcai-eous matter contained in the marrow stone, that present-
" editscltm several places. This country, regai-ded in an agricultu-
ral l»oint of view, I should conceive, is capable of high imMovement,
'notwithstanding the soU in general maybe considered to be light
'« and sandy. Its spontaneous productions in the vicinity of the wwSs,
'aie nearly the same, and grow in equal luxuriance with those under
a simUar paraUel in Eu»"ope; favoring the hoiie, that, if nutritious
exotics wei-e introduced, and carefully attended to, they would suc-
"ceed in the highest degree. The mildness of the climate, and the
"lorwardnessof every species of plants, affonled strong grounds in
" support ol this ojpinion.
"The interruptions we experienced in the general serenity of the
"weather, were pi-obably no more than were absolutely requisite in
" tlie spring of the year, to bring forward the annual productions.
?M 1.^^*'^.**^"^®*^ with no violence of wind, and the rain which
« tell, altliough disagreeable to travellers, was not so heavy as to beat
"down and destroy the firm efforts of vcgetatipn."
"What the low country before us, toward the range of snowy moun-
" tains, may pi-oduce, remains for future investigation; but, judging
"Irom what we had seen, it seemed more than probable, that those
"natural canals of the sea, wind in various directions; and that they
" ai-e capable of affording great advantages to commercial pursuits, by
"opening communications with parts of the interior country commo-
« dioiLHly and delightfully situated. The great depth of water may be
ottered as an insuperable objection; yet, on a more minute examina-
- uon, y\ is iiKeiy ihut many eligible and convenient stopping places
<(
[ Rep. No. 85. ]
11
''might be found, fop the security of such vessels as would necessarily
•'be employed in those occupations."
Hitherto, Vancouver's course up the strait had been S. W. On the
19th of May, he entered Admiralty Inlet, one branch of which has
received the name of Possession Sound; his progress was retarded by
the fracture of the foret»psail yard; this accident l«d to the examina-
tion of the other spars, several of which were ascertained to be de-
fective. " It was a very fortunate circumstance, (says he, ) that these
"defects were discovered, in a country abounding with materials to
« which we could resort; having only to make our choice, fh)m amongst
" thousands of the finest spars the world produces."
Speaking of the country about this inlet he says, « to describe the
« beauties of this region will, on some future occasion, be a very
« grateful task to the pen of a skilful panegyrist The serenity of
** the climate, the innumerable pleasing landscapes, and the abundant
'' fertility that unassisted nature puts forth, require only to be enrich-
'* ed by the industry of man witli villages, mansions, cottages, and
•< other buildings, to render it the most lovely country that can be
'* imagincdi whilst the labor of the inhabitants would be amply re-
" warded m the bounties which nature seems ready to bestow on cul-
** tivation." ,
It is impossible for ...e Committee, within the limits which they
L^ve prescribed to themselves, to follow this excellent navigator in his
adventurous course along these waters. It is sufficient to say, that he
ascertained, that, in the climate, soil, productions, and face of the
country which |he afterwards examined to the South, there was a great
similarity to that which he had already examined and described; that
the Southern extremity of these waters called Puget's Sound, was in
lat 47° 3', and approached the waters of the Columbia, 'with; i the
distancej)f 30 or 40 geographical miles, and more nearly to the wa-
ters of Whidbey's bay on the ocean, between the mouth of the Colum-
bia and the entrance of De Fuca's strait, enclosing more than two
thirds of the country, on the ocean between the river and the straits,
forming a great peninsula, the advantage** of which, if occupied by a
eivilwed nation, (if the writer is to be believed,) transcend those of
any other country in the world.
Vancouver proceeded Northward, and entered the Gulf of Georgia,
where he found a desolate and barren country, and a rocky and iron-
bound coast for some distance, beyond which the country improved,
and resembled in some degree that which he had first examined; but
farther North it again resumed its barren aspect. He ascertained the
insularity of the land in which Nootka is situated, (and which now
bears his name,) by sailing round it through the Gulf of Georgia,
Johnson's Strait, and Queen Charlotte's Sound. In situation, thi^ Isl-
and resembles Long Island, in the state of New York, being separa-
ted from the continent like that, by straits and sounds. Before his ar-
rival at Nootka h«i exploredFitzhugli's Sound, furtlter North.
Major Brooks sa^s of Ue Fuca^s strait, « it presents a noble en-
" trance, of more than half a degree in widtl), which it carries about
19
t Rep. No. 85. ]
<* sixty milcsj when it suddenly nari-ows at h place called by Vah-
<« couver, New Dungeness, whei-e is a pi-etty little harbor, and (if 1
*k recollect nght,) a very good site for forUfication. But we must
"return to its entrance. On the right or Southernmost side, is an is!-
f* «nd ncm- tliQ main land, which is the summer residence of a large
'♦ ti-ibe, know;^ ^ me only by the name of its Chief, (Utica;) just with-
^ m 18 good aiHJjorage in a small cove, but the Spaniards seem to have
*«ch(wen the Northernmostshoi-e, where just opposite is another cove,
<« which they liave named Port St Juan, and when I was there a rem.
nant ot a cruf ifix was to be seen, but on this side we saw no natives.
! J i!"l?^ "*** J^*"**^*^^ ^"^^' ^^*^*' o"Iy too deep, shores smooUi
"and bold, no, i-ocks, and the combined navies of the world might
"traverse hei-e in safety, and sea room; but having passed new
** Dungeness, you sail as in a smooth beautiful river, continually pass-
"ing creeks,, and now and then a fresh water brook. The passage
" inclinmg with a large curve t»ward N. W. after passing Georgia
« bound, where the navigation assumes a different character." Major
Brooks, after giving some general account of the navigation rouhd
Vancouver's Island, continues, " but to return to my Egyi)t. Our
'! '"""P®™^»t ^^!' cruising this strait (De Fuca's) was to find hard
1 wood for reimirs; the cour|e of many a floating leaf was followed,
until m Pi^»s cove we found oakwood. Tiie cove a large com-
« modious harbor for a fleet The shores most beautiful, soil, (where
tlie bears had turned it up in search of roots,) ready to melt in its
own nchness. Game m absolut* profusion. Salmon to be 4iad for
« knocking on the head with sticks, in the shallows of the brook where
" th«iy ran up to spawn. Here are several large deserted villages,
V. a^^'^^^ few natives. The climate, (September and part of Octo.
oer,) 18 the mildest of that which prevails in New England."
Th© Committee, after investigating the character of the soil, and
the nature of tlie productions of this country, dii-ected their attention
to Its general geographical character, and paiiicularly to its rivers
^nd waters. Pursuing its natural features, tliis region may be pro-
perly distributed into four divisions. © / f
, First, the peninsula last described, comparatively of small extent
S?"S1"k*''1^'*1:*]' •*/ ^* ^"^"'« «^^t' on t'»e East and partly on
tft© Smith by the Admiralty inlet branching into Possession and Pu-
get 8 Sounds and other waters, and enclosing Whidhcy's Island; and
partlv on thj South by lands watei-cd by the Columbia, and partly by
Whidbey s bay; on the West by the ocean on which it lies, for about
two thirds of the distance between the Columbia and De Fuca's strait
Ihe waters w .ch bound this peninsula on the North and East are of
great depth, generally free of rocks, with a muddy and tenacious bot-
torn, aflbrdmg man^ safe anchoring places and harbors.
Ihe next region is watered by the Columbia and its tributaries, and
compris^ the rich valley which bears the name of the river-bounded
on tje West by tiie mountainous lands which divide it from the ocean:
on the South by the Mej^ican line; on the East by a chain of highlands,
raiiaing ponuici wiiii tfid Rocky Mountaiiis, thi-ough which the river
£fiep. No. 85.]
^
■--■>-!>
breaks; on the N6rthby tlic possessions of Great Britain. Through tlie
whole of this region, being one hundred and seventy-eight miles from
the ocean *Jie foot of Uie rapids, tl»e tide flows, and the greater river
is naviji; for small vessels. To the month of the Multnomah on&
hundred u ^A twenty-five miles fi-om the otean, it is navigable for all
vessels which can enter it from the ocean. It is supposed that th«
larger navigation may be extended to the mojith of Quicksand rivett
thirty -three miles further. The Multnomah, the great Southern tribi^
utary of the Columbia, which is supposed to intersect the Mexican
line, is ascertained to be navigable for the distance of fourteen miles,
ft)*- ships of any size, being nearly thirty feet in depth.
The third region is the elevated plain between the highlands, which
bound the Columbia valley on the East, and is extended to the dividing
line which separates the waters of the Columbia from those of the
Missouri in the Rocky Mountains. This plain is watered in every dU
rection by the branches of the Columbia, and is celebrated in the Tra-
vels df Lewis and Clarke, as a region peculiarly genial to horses.
««The horse (they say) is confined principally to the nations inhabit-
'< mg the Great Plains of Columbia, extending from lat. 40 to 50 N»i
«an»l occupying the tract of territory lying between the Rocky Moun-
« tains, and a range of mountains which pass the Columbia river
*< about the Great Falls. Fi-ee tribes possess them in immense num-
^'beiN. They appear to be of an excellent i-ace, lofty, elegantly formed,
*♦ active, and durable. Many of them appear like fine English cour*
" sers and resemble in flcetness and bottom the best blooded horses of
"Virginia. The natives suftci- tlicm to run at large in the plains, the
" grass of which affoi-ds them tlieir only Winter subsistence; their mas-
•«iv» ^e
" S?uto^W^^J?p'*Tf^^^ "" **•* ^'^^h ««»«» »»«» those on the
u ^y-^ ***™ *^'*'"* '^*^*™»' »^'«»* a sort of bar, op, more nroneriv
speaking, over an extensi^.e flat, on which was found nH^K
" of water than four and a half fathoms. ^^
"u^^S SVi^fn*''" M ^ i*P«"«nce derived by this visit, it ap-
«« ffST^J^ 1 f^ l^ advisable, that no vessel should attempt entering
. L? P®»^h"t when the water is perfectly smooth; a nassace ma^
« wS lf^^»' ^'^^ «*'^^^' »»"* -»«»* -- therto^^5f^:j:
;;^ins several ano Jing placeL^t ITilid^ *d ^4 of Watera^dT
"eniovinTr' T ?»«^"'' "^ i"S^««. as has been Sep^^^sentS? tJcLo
predion untavorable to -ts continuance, growine out of the inrom
plote survey of Lieutenant Broughton made Jnd«. the ordZof
Vancouver, mi 792. It is true that there is a barTxtendinga^ss
« tiie mouth of the river, at either extremity of which a^ J S
"S^ef XSlfTvJentv* '' ^^?^J^ *"'^' ^^* K!;&,\Ttb1fe
unes. a deptfi ot twenty-one feet of water, thpouehout a Das8air« er
« K .K *""? ^"^ ***^ ^"**^"' encouiite,^ a change of windWhUe
*^7JZ17J ^ ^""^ *".^ ***"**' ^" «"*«"• ^""'ach the harbor, yet founj^
«?n|Xbay!S***' and met with no difficulty either then, ^^ on teav^
N«^ ^fXf^'lu^ ^ ^V^ '"***^ ^y C'*P*a'n Hickey, of the British
Navy, "Who, (he says; was kind enough to lend himself to the ex
amination, and to furnish him with the Lult, wWchSt be relied'
onfor ite accuracy. It is the mo«5 inter^tinga* Tt shows That
to^unkthat the natural difficulties at the mouThonheCo^S
might be gi^ater to an enemy, than to those accustomed to them*
«l
[ Hep. No. 85. ] f j
^' Were there any inti-icacies you would be right, but it is a nlain bar
u?vhn it I « P"**"*"' """^ *"y **•»* entrance into the river- and
^vhile Mount OlympMs, (the mark for steering in,) rears hiTm^'err
«r*^I-? ^rT^^'X"" '""«* fin^o^^erimpedimiKsmaKf^
But lortity Cape Disappointment and notMng cZaU or having
" mrutirbt^^^^^ ""'^^ ^ -'^^ -^^^^ «- sr';;«a!
The committee cannot conceive that anv vv»a* Aim^J,i*.
iWf to skilful navigator,, well ^^L^ ^"'S^S^TSI*
ppoacliing tiie bay through a passaM tbptc miles inMo.^^ ? Pj
?:jr;u«!?i.^rtili;i^ir^^™^^^^^^
superior knowledge of their own citizens shoildZe « JSTm^iS!
e;phi;pSnt?;-^rr- ir£i3^9
"hardy, from the Ittemirt."'^'^' '!<*«'■»» enemy, however
The Northern part of this region, on DeFuca'sSJmif .»j •*
toathsomemarksimonthn««„,i,'u.„"™i,^..™. .^'!*^^"^«r^^ had left its
''-" "■ "«•- -^=v«ijcu im iaiauiy. Major Brooks,
16
[Rep. No 85.]
1
who visited this country later, (believed to he between 1801 and 1808,
found many deserted villages, and tew inhabitants. It is therefore
altogether ])robuble, thatb ut little danger is to be apprehended from
their hostility, and in tiie Peninsula, that a very small force would bo
sufficient to overawe the whole.
The tribes further North arc fi'i'ocious, warlike, and treachemus,
exhibiting one of the horrible anomalies in human nature, the desire
to feast u]K)n human ilcsh. I'hc squeaniiMJi moralist may alfect to grieve,
if, by any chance, by contact with the whites, or otherwise, any dan-
ger of their extcrininatitm should arise; yet, he who projwrly appre-
hends the excellcnrc of his own nature, would no more reluct at tiie
destniction of such w I'ctchcs, than he would at that of the beasts who
prowl in the forest for pi*ey. ►
F'oi'tunatcly, however, t!ie natives of Columbia river are harmless,
stupid, imbecile, good temiiei-ed, and unsus|)ecting. In 1 806. their
numbei*s, from the Great Falls, including those about the Falls, and from
there to- the ocean, were estinnited, by Lewis and Clarke, at 13*000.
Indian population rarely increases, generally deci-eases. If, of this
number, 7,000 arc allowed for feniale^j — and this estimate is certainly
not too farge: for polygamy is practiced amongst them, and in Indian
warfare, females are seldom put to death — and if, of the remaining 6.000,
one half be counte^l as wai-riors, which, deducting the infirm, the chil-
dren, and the old men, is surely a large estimate; then 3,000 comprise
the whole number of Indian wan-iora, and these are distributed amongst
twenty distinct tribes. It would belie all ex|)ei'ience, if any conside*
l^ble number of Americans could be destroyed, in any contest which
might happen, if they deported themselves with cummon prudence.
The objects of Indian rivalry ai'e similar, and the tendency to hostili-
ty is greater amongst tJiemselvcs, than with civilized neighboi's, to
whom, if a contest should arise, it is more than probable that one half
of them would he found allied.
Lewis and Clarke estimate the whole Indian population West ojf
IJie Rocky Mountains, at 80,000.
The committee have no hesitation in saying, that a small fortifica-
tion, with a few cannon, at the mouth of the Columbia, well garrison-
ed, would defend the entrance against any enemy, who should attempt
to assail it from sea. That small posts, at theconfluence of the Mult-
nomah, the Great Falls, Lewis's river, and on Clarke's river, some-
where on the elevated plain, boi-dcring on the Rocky Mountains, would
overawe all tlie Indians on the waters of the Columbia, and secure a
monopoly of trade; and that another post, at some suitable poin^ on
the waters connected with DeFuca's Strait, would, at least, scciu'cthe
whole trade of the deligntful peninsula, which it waters.
As to subsistence, the great variety and abundance of game, both
beasts, and birds, and the prodigious quantities of the finest and most
nutritious sjiccics offish, tliat throng the waters of this noble river, can
leave no doubt on that subject, even if supplies fi'oni home were wliolly
'withhold.
[Hep. No. 85 .J
i%
We l«arri from Lewis and Clarke, that "the multitudes of salmon,
** m the Oregon, are inconceivahle, and they ascend to its remotest
" sources, to the very ridge of the dividing mountains. The water 19
" HO clear, that they may be seen at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet
«♦ At certain seasons, they float in such quantities, down the stream,
«' and are drifted ashore, that the Indians hare only to collect, split,
• ' and dry them. So abundant are they, that, in the scarcity of wood,
"dried fish are often used as fuel."
Having satisfied themselves, that this country might be defended
against exterior and internal enemies, at a small expense, and subsisted
fi-om Its mtrmsic resources, the Committee then turned their attention
to the great interests already existing in that quarter, which the es-
tabhshment of a post or posts on the waters of the Columbia might
serve to protect; and the fur trade naturally presented itself as the fir^
object Cook speaks of the abundance and cheapness of the furs at
INootka. Portlock and Dixon found immense profit in their traffic^
on the more Northerly part of this coast
Lewis and Clarke represent this region as abounding in the fufw
bearing animals, as tlie silver fox, beaver in large numbers, commoa
otters, sca-otters, minks, seals in great numbers, and a beautiful ani-
mal with fine fur, resembling the squirrel, called the sewellel; and,
also, in animals whose skins are of less value, aa the white bear, the
black bear, three species of deer, the elk, wolf, tyger cat red fox,
black fox, antelope, raccoon, several species of the squirrel, tlie brara,
an animal like a badger, the panther, hare, rabbit and pole-cat.
Major Brooks says, "the sea otter fur is here rai-e, but very fincj
"Minor furs in abundance, as beaver, land-otter, mink, muskrat &c.
" &c. and bought for a song. The principal object of fur traders
« hei-e, when the Northern Indians are providing their winter stock
"of provisions, and cannot trade, is, to purchase war garments,
" and a certain sliell valued at the North, and only found at the South,
" for traflic in their return Northward."
It is obvious, that at no very distant period, all the valuable fur-
producing animals East of tlie Rocky Mountains will either be driven
West or exterminated. The hunters of the United Northwest and
Hudson's Bay Companies, pursue their game with an avidity arising
fi-om the combined influence of the two strongest passions of the hu-
man heart "the love of pleasure, and the love of gain." The em-
ployment which supplies their means of living, is the delight of theiy
lives. Even now, the beaver is almost extinct. It is well woi-th con-
sideration, whether pi-omjrt measures ought not to be adopted to prevent
foreigners^ from enjoying an almost exclusive monopoly of this inva-
luable trade, within our own limits, and a total monopoly it must be-
came, whenever these animals shall find their only shelter in the vast
forests on the Pacific ocean, unless the protecting arm of tlie Goverii-
inent shall be extended to that region.
In connexion with the fur trade, the trade in the sandal wood of th?
Sandwich Islands, which is used in the religious ceremonies of the
Chinesei and alwavs H^^^irs '•• • .— . ...
.9 *
18
[Rep. No. 85.]
consideration; this, with ginnrng, which grows in pfonision on this
coastv opium, cop|)er, and H|)cric, arc tlie only mliclcs with which
trade can bo transHctod in tl^at city.
< The Connnittee are indehtnl to the North Ainnirftn Review for a
very able article on the subject of our claim to the Noi'thwrst Coast.
and' the value of the fur tiwle. »• In 1801, sixteen ships were engagid
«» in the traffic, fifteen of which were owned in the United States, and
" one in Gi-eat Britain. Eighteen tiunisand sea otter skins, besides
«« other fta-s, wci-e collected for tiie China market, in tliat year, by the
**Aniencan vessels alone."
•*ln 18522. theiv. were fourteen vessels from the United States cn-
here the lading is completed Avith sandal wood; then to
Canton, whei-e this cargo is exchanged iVn* teas, *cc.
The value at Canton, of fin*s, sandal wood, and other articles carri-
ed thither in 1821, by American vessels, fi'om this coast, is estimated
by the writer at 8500,000 in that market; and this was an under es-
timate. The capital employed com|)aratively nothing.
Since that time it is presumed that the trnde has notbe^en less.*
* Much iiifvrtnation may be derived rmmistatements formerly presented to this House
by a gentlenukn once at the head of a Committee appointed " to consider the expedi-
ency of the occupation of the mouth of the Cohimbia Kjver, by the United States,"
and whose industry and p'^raeverance in obtaining information, on every topic illus-
trative of the value of this country and its trade, are deservingf of all praise.
, In the season of 1817-18, there were sold in the Canton market, all presumed to
be tVom this Coast —
Sea Otttet- skins, •
125,310
. Land Otter,
47,000
Beaver,
75,385
Fox skins.
525
Seal,
70,9:55
Mink, .
334
Habbit,
150
Muakrat,
420
all sohl at |563,51d
174,075
in addition, sandal wood,
.
ginseng,
144,000
1 881,585
ISK
J-19.— Sea Otter,
124,000
Land Otter,
49.-125
'^■i
Beaver, •
70,065
Seal skins,
100,300
Rabbit,
750
Fox skins,
7,550
Sea Otter tails.
10,136
sold at $362,296
\
Sandal wood.
•
.
91,.368
Gimengt
•
♦ ■
77,770
J
t531,434
[Rep. No. 35.]
4$
TiiC Coniniittco entertain no doubt that, on tho lowest estimate
founded on any accurate statement, the amount of annua HaloH at tan-
ton, of artlclea from the Northwest Coast anC Sandwich Islands, ar^
equal to half a million of dollar, after deducting the tuiginal outfit ol
rich vessel; for it is well known that the cargoes whuh are taken
from America to this coaiit, are generally the retuse ot the hardwai-c
shops, and of very little value. ^j,. * . .u i ♦ •--
The proceeds of the sales are generally Invested' m teas, the duties
on which, we learn from the he.it authority, are, on an average, equal
to the original cost of the article in the Chinese market; giving to the
revenue the annual sum oifve hundred thousand dollars, and an ad-
vance to the owneis in the American maiket. This trade is to be con-
sidered in another iwint of xkw; much of the tea Is roshipped to Hol-
land, to the Mediterranean, to the West Indies, South America, and
elsewhere, giving activity to other imiwrtant branches ol trade, cm-
ploymont to sailors, Ifcight to ship owners, nrturning to our market
other articlcJs, productive both of profit and of revenue. 1 he his- ,
tory of this trade, when understood, will furnish sL partial solu-
tion of a problem in p«ditical eonomy. Notwithstanding the ap-
parent advance of the nation in wealth and puospenty, a national
bankruptcy was appi-ehehded, because the books of tho CustondiouseH
exhibited an alarming excess of impoits over exiwrts. It was appre-
hended, and appaivntly with some degree of reastm, that the excess
of importatioas would eventually pi-oduce a ruinous balance against
the United Sti^tes. Yet, ujion examination, it will be eas.ly discover-
ed that the return of » 1,000,000 in the pi-oductions of China, as an
offset against a trilling expoi-t, instead of indicating an extravagant
and ruinous excess of importations, demonsti-ates tlie immense profits
of trade and navigation on this coast It will easily be seen, that the
continuance of this tra«le for thirty years, (and it has been pursued lor
a longer period,) has added gl 5,000,000 to the actual capital of the
country, besides paying to the revenue §15,000,000 more, let,
for its protection, not a dollar of the public money has been ex-
pended. No public ship has been stationed in the North Pacific
and, since the appropriation of a trifling sum to cover the expenses ol
Lewis and Clarke's exploring expedition, twenty years ago, not a sin-
gle rifleman has been supported at the public expense, while, for the
protection of th«' EuroFan and West India trade, squadrons have been
innually sent forth; and what is still more extraordinary, to protect
1819-20.— Furs,
Santlal woud,
Ginsenfif,
Sea Otter Uiln,
1830-21.— Furs.
Ginsenp^,
Sandal wood,
1821-21:.— Furs.
Ginsenp,
Sandal wood.
J52i5,101
82,872
38,000
5,789
1340,991
171,275
73,508
f 490,081
209,610
268,220
$ 371,763
$.585,774
$967,911 !
u
[Rep, No< 85.]
«A
i I
■u
oar own citizeitg against the apprehended ruiiious efTects of those
branches of trade, a series of legislative reoDcdies have been proiiosed.
Mid have passed into laws !
Our stars and stripes, it is true, are annually displayed in the South
Pacific; yet the Committee cannot discover the object of our expeditions
there, unless it be, to exhibit the symbols of our sovereignty to the mi.
serable Creoles who inhabit tlie Western coast of South America, to
which, on one occasion, fliey shewed but little resficct, inasmuch as they
•uflfeped the frigate Essex to be captured under the guns of their batte-
ries; and as little on another, when they permitted the marauder wh»
commanded their navy, and who, after having been exijellcd from Eng-
land with disgrace, as a swindler, was suncred by tlicm to play the
part of a pirate here, by plundering our vessels at pleasure, and wlik
impunity.
Of late yeai-s, the snbfwct of the whale fislicry has been so often be-
fore the public, that none can bo insensible to its value.
For a long period this pursuit was confined in tho Pacific, to the wa-
ters South of the equator, but there the success of the whalemen, the
hunters of the deep, has been so destructive, that they are compelled
to traverse seas far^ the North; and the coast of Japan is now the
limit of their adventurous voyages.
Nothing but the apprehended difficulties of tlie entrance of the Co-
lumbia river, and extent of unexploretl coast, has pi-evented these dar-
ing navigators from frequenting a shore, represented by all who have
visited it, to be thronged with whales.
The fur trade and the whale fishery, are the great nurseries of sea-
men. A fur voyage generally continues three years; a whaling \ oy-
age in the North Pacific, never less than two. In these long voyages
the habits of landsmen are accommodated to the ocean, and a ctrtain-
ty ^nd precision in nautical knoM ledge and seamanship, and bardi-
hoi^d and intrepidity and a habit of self reliance are acquired,
which enables them to encounter, successfully, all tlie perils of
the element on which they live, and elevates them to the summit of
professional excellence. They visit every clime — they encompass tlie
world. Not like the humble sti]»endiaries, too often seen in the Euro-
pean and West Indian trade, reckless of the interest of tlieir employ-
ers, and anxious only to secure their monthly wages, the sailors who
visit these remote seas, are the partners of merchants, they share t\m
"profits as well as the losses of the voyage, and they are sure of receiv-
ing, evTntually, an elevation in command juoportionate to their merit
^nd exertions.
The great, but undeveloped capacities of this region on the North
West Coast for ti'ade, must be obvious to every one who inspects its,
map.
A vast river, with its tributaries and branches, waters its whole ex-
tent through seven degrees of latitude, and even penetrates beyond,
into the territories of otlier nations.
It abounds in excellent timber, and in spai's, equal to tlios© of New
Zealand, unsui*passed by any in the world.
[Rep. No. 85.}
21
«
tts waters afrc navigable for \ cssels through half its oXtent, and foe
boats (saving a lew short portag#H,) through half the rt'inuiuder.
The water jKiwcr for ni(»ving uiaiuifacturing machinery is unequall«
od, and roinmenrcs where the navigation terminates.
Ic is boun»'!?!l')th the snyjigps may be conciliated*
the fur trade secured, the whale fishery partially protected, our title
«trengtliemd, and tlu- way p»oi^)4J'cd for t\iturc cnterprizcs, if subse-
2%
[ Rep. No. 35. 3
qiicnt evcnf should prove fuvorahlc, we have concun-ca most fully
in opiwlon uUi i. l'|(.Hi,)ent that •• the river of the West tti-st fully
•♦ Uiscovej ., am navigated by a countryman of our own, claims the
*. |r»»t«:U(i <\i , ir armed national flug at its mouth, or at some other
<*m4ii| on tbatci>.,f^t."
T\m Committee ihink that fi\e humlnd men will bo amply sufli-
t^M, not only to establish and maintain (»<.. post, but several others,
ftinl thai J'or the complete (lofcnce of the entrance of the Columbia, no-
ittiMtg will be necessary, but > few cannon placed in a stoi^kadcd fort,
whltfr can \w erected at small expense.
In toiilufi ;»y wUh this opinicm, the u M which we report provides
that the l»rt'.si(l iit may establish a juist or jwsts, within the limits of
the United States on the Pacific ocean, or on the waters connected
with that ocean, w here, and in such manner as he shall see fit; sub-
mitting the location to his discretion, which discretion, will doubtless
be d(!termined after careful examination, and a comparison of the ad-
vantages and disad\ antagcs of different positions.
EXPLORATION OF THE NORTHWEST COAST.
The subject of a voyage of exploration on the Northwest Coast has
also received the particular attention of the Committee.
Navigators have done but little to ascertain the character of this
coast, from lat. 42 N. to the mouth of the Columbia.
^ .From the Spanish voyages nothing can be learned.
Cook first discovered the coast of New Albion, (March 7, 1778,) in
lat. 44° 33', being then eight leagues off shoi-e, and in seventy -three
fathoms ot water. The weather became unpleasant, and the winds
ndvei;se, and his view was obstk-ucted. On the ninth of March, he
saw It again, farther South, between 44° 6' and 43° 30'. Stormy
weather sucx-ccding, he was compelled to abandon it, and saw no land
again until he was near the entrance of De Fuca's Sti-ait, which he
passed without discovery.
The »p jearance of the coast there, he describes thus: "We were
"now in lorty eight fathoms water, and four leagues fron.> the land, '
" extending from iioi-th to southeast; and a small round hill, v h ,rh .ve
<' supiwsed to be an islajul, bore north thr« r> quartors cast, at M; • *Iis-
*'tance of about six or seven leagues. It seemed to be of r i ; ^'m"
*' height, and could but just be seen from the deck. There apjieared
"to be a small oi)ening between this supposed island, and the noi-thern
"extreme of the land; we therclbi-e entertained somes hopes of finding
"an harbor; ^.Jt these hopes gradually vanished as we grew nearer;
" and at lengti v« were almost convinced, that tlie opening was closed
"by low lam! ■>:. JoDvr odore, for this reason, named the point of
''luiiutotheirHUs "h :»ipe Flattery. Its latitude is 48" 15' north;
"in this very iaiitu::^, ^^eograph • have placed tlie pretended strait
[Rep. No. 85.]
38
** of Juan de Fum. But notlnnR of that kind proflcntcd itself to our
«« view, nor in it probable tbat any such thing ever existed.'*
Vancouver Hailed along this coast in extremely pleasant weather,
but could discover neitlu'f iiarbor, river, or inlet, between 42 N. and
Dc Fuca'9 Strait, although he was in sight of tije mouth of ti»e Colum-
bia, and his ship floated ujwn its \vtitei"s, at the very place where fh*'^
mincled with the ocean. His sagacity induced him to believe, that a
mighty river nnist be there, and he only ;> iehh'd his conviction to tho
evidence of his senses, v h5ch disc** red to liijui, (as he thou;^ it.) n(K
thing but an unbroken i*ct'i of n>cks, against which tlie waves of tho
ocean were beating in terrific conflict
The ill success of two such illus.rious navigators, as Cook and Van-
couver, furnishes striking instances of the vanity of human science and
skill.
Within the three degi-ees of latitude, wh'uh Cook, by had weathetf
wiis prevented from visiting *he greatest rivei* in Western America
«Jis(.-hargcd itself into the ocean, and he lost the chance of a discovery,
wiiich would have been the pnnidest of his IrituTijihs. Deceived by
the appearance of the land, he lost the furtiier triumph, of rediscover-
ing the long lost Strait of De Fuca, after he had actually seen the o])eu-
ing, by which it communicated with the sea.
The mouth of the Columbia eluded the view of Vaif-ouver, in con-
(Sequcnce of the deceptive appearance of a continuous shoie. This
noble river, which had rolled its mighty mass of waters for countless
centuries, through primeval forests, in solemn and silent grandeur to
the ocean, had escaped the researches of the navigators o*' Spain, Rus-
sia, and Great Britain; and this grand discovery wits 1< it, (it would
seem almost providcntally,) to perpetuate for ages, not (h ly the name
of an humble American, but even the name of the ship wi h which he
was quietly navigating this coast, for commercial purpost s ; and he
had also the further tiiumph of rediscovering the long lost, celebrated
£traitof De Fuca, which had baffled the lynx-eyed vigilance of Cook.
Ofthe coast in 45° 32' N., Vancouver says, "tlie more inl ind coun-
« try is considerably elevated, the mountains stretch towarii ; the sea,
«* and, at a distance, appealed to form many inlets and j rqjecting
"points; but the sandy beach that continued along the coas*^ render-
" ed it a compact shore." It is not certain, however, that the o is not
between this sandy beach, and the interior mountainous counti , much
^avigable water, communicating with the ocean by narrow inl ts, like
tlie coast uf North Carolina; at any rate the fact ought to b* ascer-
tained.
The most skilful navigators are deceived by appearances • i land
as well as on the water. Cook asserts that he saw land South o Cape
Gregory, covered with snow, Vancouver says Jthat this appearance
was ])roduced by sand «' extremely white."
If such navigators as Cook and Vancouver should be so far deceived
iJi the appearanreof the land, as to suffer the mouth of the Columbia
and the entrance of De Fuca's Strait to escape discovery, after a lose
examination, mRde, with tjie cxnrcss view of asco.it^inin" the €xi.st *^nce
uaiWlD^i MUilRfJ '
34
[Hep. No- 35. j
6f biiUi, it would not be surprising if many discoveries were yet made
in this quarter. . ,. , x
• If m) rj-vere communicate with the ocean, along the line of coast
from 42 to 4«, yet, it wonld be surprising, indeed, if tliere were not
several undisoBver^l bays, harbors, and inlets; if such do not exist, it
isa reniariiable fact, contrary to all the analogies of nature: a hilly or
inountainous coast being always deeply indented by openings, extend-
ing far inland, which form secure and convenient harbors.
Another fact ought to be ascertained; in some of t!»e latest maps, the
long river Monges, wiiich flows far fi-om the interior, is representetl a»
discharging itself into the ocean North of 42; in others, nearly as re-
cent, and of equal authority, the samfe river is made to conununicate
witli the ocean Soutli of 42.
TIjc mouth and bay of the Columbia river shtHild receive a more par-
ticular examination, as well as the river itself, as fai- as it is navigable.
The Multnomah, its great Southern tributary, should be explored:
fourteen miles fwrn its confluence with the Columbia, its water (ac-
cording tx> Capt. Clarke) was of sufficient depth to float vessels of the
. That pai-t of tlie coast between the mouth of the Columbia and De
Fuca's Stj'ait, and the waters conuntinicating with that strait from the
South, although explored by Vancouver and his ofliccrs, might be re-
examined with advantage. If nothing raoi* was ascertained, than
that their sur\eys wei-e correct, it would be productive of some benefit
to science, and of some service to the nation.
To the North an exploration is more necessary, particularly as we
have but an imperfect kno\\ letlge of the rivers Tacmdche Tessc, and
Cdedonia. . From tlie natives 00f>
25
«
C Bep. No. 85.J
14,000
fore the House of ReprcsentaavM S „i *u v*'^ *^ ■«*» '"W •"=-
inaccessible to a vS^^dJ^l-W «k*" '"'"''"^ *' ^^^"^
The estimate of the annual expense of such vessel is
838,000
16,500
10,000
E64,50*f
ffZi^a:^^^^^^^^ «- Whole expense, of
ferred to this serv icrthnff '^^^"""f ^ c««W be ti-ans-
opinion of the SecSrv^fr^^^ f "^' ^^P^"«^' i» «»«
quire any XratTo^Hn fhp? ."**l?*' "^ S^»* «« *« re-
be reqiSed ^tS .o! ^"""^^ e««mates, all that would
wouw"e . '^'^\'^'*^^^^ the usual apppropriation.
And ifoneofthe United States' srhonn^^c. ii. x ". 5526,500
red fi^m another service to thifZ '^""^'^ be transfer-
expense, in that caserwou?d be'oSt"'"''''^ ^'^^^"^"^^
Jhe estimate of the Quartermaster Lneral may heaV some X-
ciefo?I^;u,!SLrvrcf "e^ ^'T*^ -™-^ that the exigen-
on all the s^atf^rtrfurnlb^^^^^^^ '? '""^'^'^^ ^ to requl,^,
tl.e official statements o he S^afv of '^^ T '" ,?"» "^^^^«"' >^«*
Government in that Department S.ft ^^^^^ the organ of the
they think ihat it is req ,™ either^n ^^.^^''fSarded. Neither do
ti-ue economy, tliat the ainlnf f *"? P"»^»P'e« of «ound policy or
and for a voyage of ex phSor^h "^^^^^^ ^' ' P-*'
required to cover tlie eYoected rvm>mirf ^.*,'* *''^ '^""^ ^^tiially
and there may be a ne-cStv fol f P^'" *"^e5 accidents may happen,
to be hoped, SiatXte^:^^^^^^^^^^ ^ti.^
will be judiciously and frugally cx^^^^^^^^ ^'''* '' appropriated, it
' - - ^^'° ^>^^^^ "«t only snppiy o„r full proportion to rhe'cimmorsVS
26
[Hep. No. 85.]
»i of geographical and astronomical science^" but who will gain in that
field, as many laurels, as they have^heretofore in the field of glory; who,
instead of rearing crosses, burying coins, and engraving names, are
destined, we trust, to plant the standards of a Republican nation idong
the endless !?hores of the vast Pacific, not as the barren emblems of
nominal sovereignty, but as signals both of power and protection, of
!aw, knowledge, civilization^ and liberty.