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 h^ 
 
 9th Congress, 
 1st Session. 
 
 [SENATE.] 
 
 [475] 
 
 %■ 
 
 
 STATEMENT 
 
 OP 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 CHARLES WILKES, A COMMANDER IN THE U., S. NAVY, 
 
 
 OF THE 
 
 ■•»• 
 
 Survey of the mouth of the Columbia river by the United States exploring 
 
 expedition. 
 
 ■^•; 
 
 &» , 
 
 AoGusT 3, 1846. — Referred to the Committee on Printing. 
 August 5, 1846. — Ordered tc be printed. 
 
 ',r,y:;V' 
 
 '1 
 
 ■' r 
 
 i 
 
 A 
 
 4 
 
 ..- M 
 
 7 Hon. James A. Pearce, 
 
 ^ Senator of the United States, and chairman 
 
 "■ . Joint Library Comm' 'se of Congress : -, 
 
 ^ijj^ a?C?i*. .i^i/f.; ^ JO f 
 
 Sir: As there seems to be a great eiFort making, through the instru- 
 mentality of Passed Midshipmen Knox and Reynolds, and Midshipman 
 Blair, who were engaged in a subordinate capacity in the survey of the 
 Columbia r^yer, and whose erroneous opinions are now being offered to 
 the Senate of the United States as the correct results of the surveys, (for 
 what reason I kuow not,) to produce the impression that the entrance of 
 the Columbia river is one of the most feasible and safest ports in the world, 
 (even a New York pilot, who has never seen or been near Columbia 
 river, has been called upon to give his testimony, in order to add weight 
 to this favorable opinion,) I think it a duty I owe to my countrymen, 
 navigators, and all others interested, to give a succint account of its state 
 and condition at the time I undertook the survey of it with the officers of 
 the exploJng expedition, the manner of conducting the survey, and cor- 
 rect sailing directions. 
 
 I have no desire to exaggerate the dangers of the entrance of the Co- 
 lumbia river ; but as a surveyor and the commander of the expedition, I 
 deem it my duty to give directions agreeably to the truth, and, whv're dan- 
 gers do exist, to point them out, that due caution may be observed by 
 those who may follow after us. To add force to my own opinion, 1 might 
 here appeal to the account of all voyagers who have, from time to time, 
 visited the Columbia since its first discovery. They all, without excep- 
 tion, clothe it with dangers ; and none have had the hardihood to attempt 
 its entrance except under the most favorable circumstances ; and almost 
 every vessel that has attempted a passage, in or out, has met with some 
 disaster more or less serious : even those who have been deemed the most 
 expert navigators, and, we have reason to believe, had the best information 
 respecting it, have not escaped uninjured. Indeed, all the information 
 the officers and myself received from the masters of the H. B. company's 
 Ritchie A Heiss, print. • 
 
[476] 
 
 MnwO, ft tp! \^<V/J 
 
 -4p t- 
 NC7V 3 '60 
 
 vessels, (men of great experience in the navigation of the river, and able 
 navigators and seamen,) was indicative of the dangers and perils they 
 were surrounded with in entering and departing from the^polumbia, at 
 all seasons of the year. One of them used the expression, that it " added 
 to his gray hairs every time he passed in or out of the river, and he should 
 thank his God when he was no longer subjected to it;" but our own ope- 
 rations and experience will be the best to rely upon, which I intend now 
 to give. 
 
 The lower part of the Columbia river, it will be seen by the chart, ex- 
 pands into a llirge and open bay, in the middle of which, and extending 
 from each cape, are extensive sand shoals ; part of the middle sands are 
 bare. These shoals form the great obstruction to the entrance of the river ; 
 and from the strong currents and westerly winds, extensive breakers are 
 formed, and for the most part conceal the passage between the north and 
 south spits. These two sand spits overlap each other ; the south one pro- 
 jecting to seaward of the north one, being in a line almost at right angles 
 with it. These obstructions have been formed by the deposite of the sands 
 brought down the river, or washed by the abrasion of the sea from the 
 neighboring cliffs or capes. The breakers on these spits are usually vio- 
 lent, though there are times when there is little or no break on their outer 
 ends ; yet this is seldom the case, and in lieu of these a heavy swell passes 
 over them, but ill defining the danger. The bar lies outside of these, and 
 is attended with no particular danger unless the sea is very heavy, when 
 breakers form on it also, and a vessel would be subjected to risk from the 
 heavy swell in passing. The depth of water on the bar at low water is 
 28 feet. The bar has been erroneously represented as the position of dan- 
 ger ; this is a mistake. No accident, to my knowledge, has happened on 
 it. The situation of the south end of the north breaker is the point of 
 greatest danger. It is necessary to pass close to it ; and as a vessel be- 
 comes, on nearing it, subject to the influence of the strong cross tides set- 
 ting in or out of the two channels, she is comparatively under little con- 
 trol from her helm, and requires great care in the navigator, as the tides 
 have great effect upon her steering, and of which her compasses give no 
 timely notice whatever. On this account the compasses are of no use, 
 and any directions wherein they form a part cannot be relied upon. On 
 this account I have dispensed with their use, and resorted to ranges, which 
 the most casual observer will instantly recognise. 
 
 The dangers are, in my opinion, great for large vessels, but there are 
 times when almost any class of vessel might pass in with safety ; but 
 they are few and far between, occurring very seldom. 
 
 At the change of tide, or slack water, the breakers are very much dimin- 
 ished or lost, and are less violent on the ebb-tide than on the flood. 
 
 The opinion I have formed is, that both the north and south spits are 
 increasing ; this is corroborated by those with whom I conversed, and 
 whose experience extended some years back. In the memory of many, 
 Cape Disappointment itself has been worn away some hundred feet by 
 the abrasion of the sea and the strong currents that pass by its base. The 
 middle sands are subject to great changes. During the survey a large por- 
 tion of what was dry sand was washed off and carried away, and every 
 spring the usual marks or channels throughout the course of the river are 
 lost or changed. Of late years the«outh channel has become much more 
 
wo 
 
 
 NOV 3 'fiO 
 
 nd able 
 Is they 
 bia, at 
 added 
 should 
 I'^nope- 
 id now 
 
 
 j THV^ 
 
 
 
 t 475 ] 
 
 marked, and is believed to be on the increase, as a large portion of the 
 water appears to set through it by the accumulation of the upper sands. 
 If this should be the case, it will become considerably enlarged and im- 
 proved; at the same time, we may look for a corresponding increase in the 
 length of the south spit. 
 
 As an endeav r has been made to deprive the officers who were en- 
 gaged in the survey of the Columbia river of the credit due them, and to 
 place it where it does not belong, I think it proper now to give a full ac- 
 count of that duty, by whom and how it was performed, lest my silence 
 might be construed as assenting to the erroneous statements that have 
 been put forth by Passed Midshipman Reynolds and Midshipman Blair- 
 
 The survey was originally begun by Captain Hudson and his officers 
 on the 2.id of July, four days after the wreck of his ship, in a most praise 
 worthy manner, while many of them had scarcely clothes to their backs, 
 and was persevered in until the 7ih of August, when I arrived off the 
 mouth of the liver with the Vincennes and Porpoise. Circumstances 
 rendered it necessary for me to take command of the Porpoise, and to 
 send the Vincennes, (after the necessary exchanges of officers had been 
 made,) under Lieutenant Commandant Ringgold, to San Francisco. 
 
 After the departure of the Vincennes, 1 examined the progress that had 
 been made in the survey, and saw the necessity of changing the whole 
 plan of it, in order to expedite the duties we were required to perform. 
 Orders were given accordingly to erect signals at suitable points for the 
 triangulation, which occupied us some six days. 
 
 A part of the middle sands being bare, and occupying nearly the centre 
 of the bay, offered a most excellent poi?it d^appui for a survey of the 
 harbor. This was taken advantage of, and chosen as my principal sta- 
 tion, forming the apex to several triangles that embraced the whole extent 
 of the bay. When all was prepared, on the 16th August, Lieutenants 
 Perry, Maury, North, and De Haven, and acting Masters Baldwin and 
 Sinclair, were ordered to occupy the main points of the triangles, with in- 
 struments and bombs for measuring angles, and obtaining bases by sound. 
 These points had been chosen particularly with reference to the facility for 
 being observed upon by the sounding parties to be employed in the bay, on 
 the bar, and in the north and south channels. In order to effect the most 
 direct communication between the one in Baker's bay and the cape, a 
 long avenue was cut through the trees on Cape Disappointment. 
 
 The whole material, including measurement of angles, sides, astronom- 
 ical observations for latitude, longitude, and azimuths, was obtained in a 
 few hours, and under the most favorable circumstances. The stations 
 chosen by Captain Hudson and Lieutenant Perry were also incorporated 
 into the survey, and the measurements by sound compared, and found to 
 agree with their measured base by a chain, on ground favorable for the 
 purpose. By the following day this work was all calculated and projected. 
 From this, the survey of the Columbia river began. 
 
 Now as respects the duties performed by acting Master Knox, in charge 
 of the Flying Fish, with two boats of the Peacock, they are embraced in 
 the following instructionji ; and two skeleton charts of the river, contain- 
 ing all the points established, were with them handed to him, to fill up 
 the soundings and establish the minor shoals and points. The following 
 is a copy of these instructions : 
 
 226553 
 
 ^- ^- •■,.-•■ 
 
[47«] 
 
 ■T.lrt!»*T^ 
 
 Copy of orders to Passed Midshipman Knox. 
 
 United States Brig Porpoise, 
 
 Off Astoria, August 16, 1846. 
 
 Sir: Accompanying this you will receive two skeleton charts, enabra- 
 cing the mouth of the Columbia river, and as far up as Tongue point. 
 
 Although I have pointed out to you, verbally, the duty that is to be 
 performed, and the manner in which I wish the work you are intrusted 
 with executed, 1 think it proper to give written directions as to your 
 manner of carrying k on><-'- 
 
 1st. You will be very particular to prevent any unnecessary risk to your 
 vessel, her crew, or boats, for you must be well aware that on her and 
 their preservation much of the future duties of the expedition depend. 
 Although the Flying Fish is well adapted to the performance of the duties 
 you are about to undertake, yet it is very necessary to be cautious in not 
 risking too much, even in her. 
 
 2d. The points of the main triangulation have been conveniently located, 
 and can be easily distinguished from the bar, and in the north and south 
 channels, and will be seen whenever the weather will permit you to work 
 there. 
 
 3d. In taking up a position with the Flying Fish, you will always 
 place her, by angles, on three or more points of the main triangulation. 
 When fixed, you will at once mark the stations on the chart ; then you 
 will radiate the lines of soundings with the boats from the schooner, es- 
 tablishing the radiating lines of the boats by observations from the 
 schooner, either by azimuths, or angles, or signals. The officers in the 
 boats will fix the end of the lines sounded by the height of the mast 
 of the Flying Fish, when at a short distance ; and when more remote, by 
 three or more points, the schooner being one of them. 
 
 4th. The soundings must be transferred to the chart as soon as possi- 
 ble after they are taken, in order that you may see the actual progress you 
 are making, and to allow you to verify any points, or fill up any omis- 
 sions. 
 
 6th. When the sounding lines reach the shore or sand banks, they 
 must be fixed by three points of the triangulation. These minor points 
 will enable you to trace the shore line with accuracy, and sketch in from 
 station to station. I need not say to you that it is of importance they 
 should be accurately observed, attended to by yourself, and as numerous 
 as possible. 
 
 6th. I apprehend much difficulty in your work in the north and south 
 channels, as the tides are extremely rapid, and it will be seldom that the 
 boats can be used, except near slack water. Slack-water, though of short 
 duration, will afford you time to effect much in, if properly improved. 
 You must at all times be cautious in usiing the boats when the tide is 
 strong. 
 
 7th. You must not remain at anchor outside the capes, in either chan- 
 nel, over nightfall. You will either anchor in Baker's bay, inside Cape 
 Disappointment, or within point Adams, on the Clatsop shore. 
 
 8th. The bar and channels outside the capes will claim your earliest 
 attention. Every favorable opportunity that the weather presents must 
 be improved to complete those parts of the work. When the weather 
 
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 5 [ 475 ] 
 
 proves unfavorable for that part of the work, you will be able to employ 
 yourself in the river above the middle sands, or about Astoria. 
 
 9th. A tide staff will be kept at Astoria; but you will, while employed 
 in sounding, note particularly the variation of the depth of water along- 
 side, and the time ; your soundings will be reduced accordingly. 
 
 10th. You will apprize me of your proceedings from time to time, and 
 imiiediately if any accident should befall you. 
 
 i»ir. Eld and his party are daily expected from Gray's harbor; you will 
 render him all the aid in your power. Mr. Colvocoresses is ordered to 
 report to you for duty. If you have duty for him, detain him; if not, let 
 him join me at Vancouver. ; ji*i /s. 
 
 Wishing you success in carrying out these instructions, I am, with 
 respect, yours, &c., 
 
 CHARLES WILKES, 
 Commanding Exploring Expedition, 
 
 Acting Master Saml. R. Knox, 
 
 Commanding Flying Fish. ;, .x. 
 
 In obedience to these orders, acting Master Knox proceeded to fill up 
 the soundings. Having found that he has given an erroneous impression 
 (probably from memory) relative to the entrance and harbor, I herewith 
 give copies of his reports lo me ; which, being written at the time and 
 during the progress of his work, give a different impression, and, no 
 doubt, a correct one. 
 
 Mr. Knox to Captain Wilkes. "* 
 
 , . ' . Schooner Flying Fish, 
 
 .*»'^y^...:-^.^^m , ^'•^ George, August 28, 1841. 
 
 Sir : Mr. Eld, with his party, arrived yesterday, and I came up to this 
 place with (hem in the afternoon. He will leave for Vancouver to-day, if 
 possible. 
 
 I have been obliged, while awaiting his party, to work in the vicinity 
 of Cape Disappointment, and have sounded and laid in the shores from 
 the cape as far up the bay as a line between the Sand island and the small 
 river emptying into the bay. The weather, excepting four days, has been 
 rough, so that I could accomplish very little. I anchored once in the pas<- 
 sage outside the cape, but was obliged, by the setting of the sea, to leave 
 it very soon afterwards. Last Tuesday night, while at anchor on the 
 northern side of the Sand ishmd reef, the tide running very strong, the 
 two boats swamped ; and the Polly broke adrift, and probably went to sea. 
 I did not leave to communicate the loss to you, as the weather proved so 
 fine up to yesterday that I thought it best to get on as fast as possible with 
 the remaining boat. I have taken the Pearl, and have required some oars 
 from Mr. Birnie. I shall be able to use her inside. 
 
 Dr. Palmer has advised that I should leave William Penno on shore, 
 (sick,) and he has given me a rr>an in his place. It is calm now, and the 
 tide flood. I shall leave as soon as possible, and sound through the Clat« 
 sop channel, which I hope to finish in a day or two. 
 
 * • ^»* -fc • 
 
t 475 ] • 
 
 I I am at present sick, but can get on with the work. I send Mr. Colvo- 
 coresses up, as I have no duty for him. 
 
 Veiy respectfully, 
 
 SAM'L R. KNOX, -« - 
 Acting' Master, commanding Flying Pish. ■ 
 *- Charles Wilkes, Esq., 
 
 Commanding U. S. Exploring Expedition. > 
 
 V 
 
 
 Mr. Knox to Captain Wilkes. 
 
 muBff 
 
 U. S. Tender Flying Fish, 
 
 At the Bar, September 8, 1841. 
 
 ''' Sir: Your letter of 2d instant has just reached me. Since I wrote by 
 Mr. Eld, I have filled up the Clatsop channel and the passage leading 
 from the cape, out as far as that leading to sea. 
 
 I have done nothing more to the bay than what I mentioned in my last 
 
 I have only been able to sound on slack water, as the tide runs with 
 such force that the boats can do nothing in it. 1 also experienced great 
 difficulty in getting the schooner to the stations necessary for operating, 
 and find it impossible to remain in the outer passage with the flood-tide 
 and sea breeze. 
 
 >' I do not think I shall be able to finish this part of the work in less than 
 ten days, should I have good weather all the time. 
 
 1 shall give my whole attention to this, until it is finished. 
 Respectfiilly, <fcc., 
 
 ' SAM'L R. KNOX, 
 
 Acting Master, commanding Flying Fish. 
 
 Charles Wilkes, Esq., 
 
 Commanding U. S, Exploring Expedition. 
 
 It will tl ^e be seen what the experience of Mr. Knox was, from 
 his own lettL 'n his letter published a short time since in the " Union," 
 he has attempted to give directions for entering the river. These are 
 both incorrect and incomplete; they do not correspond, and cannot be 
 used with the chart, which all acknowledge to be correct. For instance, 
 he speaks of Point EUice as synonymous with Young's Point, when they 
 are in fact on opposite sides of the river ; and takes no notice whatever of 
 the position of the greatest danger, viz : the end of the north spit On 
 this spit the greatest danger exists ; nearly all the accidents have hap- 
 pened on it, or on the middle sands. Thus much for the share he took 
 in these duties. 
 
 '^ The survey up the river was conducted with six boats. They were 
 separated into three division, viz : van, middle, and rear. One of each 
 division was ordered to confine its operations to the same side of the 
 river. 
 
 ^' All the signals on the right hand side of the river were made numer- 
 ical, while those on the left side were alphabetical ; thus the officers had 
 no difficulty in recognising a signal, and naming it at once. The two 
 van boats were employed in putting up the signals, and observing the 
 back angles ; the middle division, both the forward and back angles; and 
 the rear division, the forward angles. The van and middle divisions were 
 also provided with bombs for the measurement of bases by sound, which 
 
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 % [ 475 ] 
 
 they were all to note. I superintended the whole, and took astronomical 
 bearings at the several points that I dfamed most effective to establish 
 the lines of bearing. 
 
 The river was triangulated in this way. As a further check upon the 
 operations, the two brigs anchored alternately in sight of each other. 
 Guns were fired by them, and the distance by sound ascertained ; the as- 
 tronomical bearing being observed at each station, and a round of angles 
 measured on all the signals in sight. Besides this, they were brought 
 into the series of triangles by the boats, and became fully incorporated into 
 the survey. 
 
 Under these regulations the operations were easily governed ; each of* 
 ficer knew what he had to perform ; and if I wished to change the order 
 of duty, or establish any point more carefully, I had only to leave a mem- 
 orandum to that effect at one of the signals, or observe with my theodo- 
 lite. 
 
 Some little difficulty was at first experienced in turning the sharp bends 
 of the river; but this was easily overcome, by creating what I termed Jli/ing 
 stations, either by ordering a boat or one of the brigs to anchor, and con- 
 necting the whole together by two or three small triangles. 
 
 The signals were all left standing, until our return down the river, for 
 filling in the soundings. 
 
 On our arrival at Vancouver three boats were sent with Lieutenants 
 Walker, Maury, and acting Master Sinclair, to carry on the survey in 
 a similar manner forty miles above that place, to the head of navigation of 
 the Columbia ; and also another party, consisting of Lieutenants Perry, 
 De Haven, and acting Master Baldwin, as far up the Willamette as the 
 falls. 
 
 On our return down the river, a diagram from the original projection 
 was pricked off, and the lines drawn on it that each boat was required to 
 sound out. These in the evening were returned, and others substituted 
 the next morning ; so that each day's work was distinct and perfect with- 
 in itself. The sketching in of the shores was generally done by myself; 
 though each officer was required, if he did not happen to strike a station 
 at the end of his line of sounding, to fix his position by angles on three 
 or more points, and to sketch in the shores in the vicinity. 
 
 As we proceeded up the river I occupied three stations, at a distance of 
 about thirty miles apart, and determined their latitude, longitude, and va- 
 riation. 
 
 In order to guard against liability to sickness from the exposure of the 
 officers and men, I gave orders that no boat should leave the vessels be- 
 fore 9 a. m. j and that all should return half an hour before sunset, at which 
 time the awnings must be spread, and curtains drawn close around. This 
 course was adhered to during the whole time we were engaged ; tmm 
 which precaution, and insisting upon their having dry clothes on, and the. 
 great care of Dr. Holmes, (to whom I feel much indebted for his exertions,) 
 1 inipute in a great measure their preservation fix)m sickness during the 
 sickly season. 
 
 These arrangements also afforded ample time for the work to be calcu- 
 lated and projected before the next day, and enabled me to see that noth- 
 ing had been omitted or overlooked. The progress we were enabled to. 
 me^e each day was firom ten to fifteen miles, and proved very satis&ctory. 
 
 Surveying dttty, to be conducted in this manner, requires practice on the 
 
[475] 
 
 8 
 
 part of the officers, and much attention. The emulation among the men 
 serves to obtain their utmost efforts, and the regularity of working hours 
 enables all to have time, avoid hurry, or confusion. The crews every 
 morning were inspected before going to work, and in the evening after 
 their return. 
 
 It affords me great pleasure to acknowledge the spirit and manner in 
 which both officers and men conducted the work ; at the same time 
 carrying on all the duties appertaining to the repairs and outfit of the 
 bngs, &,c. 
 
 Those engaged in the survey were : Captain Hudson ; Lieutenants 
 Walker, Perry, Maury, North, and De Haven ; acting Masters Baldwin, 
 Sinclair, and Knox; Passed Midshipmen Harrison and Reynolds, and 
 Midshipman Blair; Drs. Palmer and Holmes; Pursers Waldron and 
 Speiden ; and Clerks Howison and Stuart. 
 
 The survey of the Columbia to the highest point navigable, one hun- 
 dred and twenty-five miles from its mouth, with its various branches and 
 inlets, together with the Willamette and Cowlitz, occupied from the 16th 
 of August till the 10th October, a period of fifty-five days. 
 
 The following are the sailing directions given by me to Commodore 
 Dallas, in 1843 : 
 
 Sir: Although I cannot offer you the fiill sailing directions for the bar 
 and entrance of the Columbia river, 1 send you the following abstract of 
 my noteSy from which they will be drawn up. 
 
 The entrance to the Columbia river may be considered at all times dan- 
 gerous, owing to the heavy breakers, cross tides, their velocity, and the 
 influence of an under current on a vessel drawing much water, besides 
 the distance of any thing like sailing marks for the channel, which not 
 unfirequenlly become more or less indistinct when the state of the weather 
 will permit of entrance ; and from a want of due attention to them, a ves- 
 sel may be swept ashore without receiving any notice whatever firom the 
 compasses. Compass-bearings are, in short, of but little, if any use, in 
 entering the river. 
 
 It is safest to enter on the ebb-tide, with the nsnal northwest wind, 
 which sets in about ten or eleven o'clock, a. m., during the summer 
 months. The entrance should never be attempted with a flood-tide and 
 northwest wind, unless the Clatsop channel is followed, and the sea is 
 smooth. 
 
 After making Cape Disappointment, which is easily distinguishable by 
 the dark hummocks and tall pines, trimmed up, with the exception of their 
 tops, you may lead in for it on a northeast bearing, if to the southward ; 
 if to the northward, you may run in until you ha^e that bearing on. A 
 hammock, or saddle-hill, to the northward, on with the outer part of the 
 cape-land, will give you notice that you are on the bar, in 4^ or 5 &thoms 
 w&ter: in ordinary weather, the outer line of the north spit is readily per- 
 ceived by the rollers breaking ; the inner line is always perceptible : when 
 Young's Point is open with dead trees on Point Adams, you will be to 
 northward of the end of the north spit, and may run down along it 
 until those two points are on range ; then haul in ror Point Ellice, or the 
 green patch on Chinook hill ; if intending to take the channel by the cape 
 or old channel, watch the opening of Leading-in eUf, with the inner 
 point of the cape, and, as it comes on, haul up directly fat it, (the cape,) 
 
 X 
 
1 
 
!• 
 
-y 
 
 f9 
 
 [475] 
 
 and steer in ; you will then have doubled close tound the north breaker, 
 in 7 fathoms water ; and it is better to keep the north spit close aboard if 
 the wind is not so scant as to oblige you to beat up for Cape Disappoint- 
 ment : on opening Green Point, you must go about ; it is not safe to go 
 nearer the middle sand. On ordinary occasions, there will be scarcely 
 ever a necessity to tack ; the ebb-tide on your lee bow will keep jrou suf- 
 ficiently to windward. 
 
 The cape will be required to be passed close aboard, in order to avoid 
 the sand spit making off from the middle sands towards the cape ; the two 
 outer bluffs of the cape, in range, will strike it : after you have passed this 
 range, you may steer into Baker's bay, and, having passed an opening in 
 the wood on the cape, you may anchor in from 7 to 10 fathoms : in pass- 
 ing the cape, care must be taken not to be becalmed by it ; if this should 
 happen, the only resource is to down anchor at once, and wait a favorable 
 tide ; the current will be found very strong ; it sometimes runs from 6 to 
 6 knots an hour — a perfect mill-race — and no boat can make way against 
 it when at its strength. 
 
 If desirous to proceed up to Astoria, and one of the native pilots is not 
 to be had, the only precaution necessary in proceeding up is to keep the 
 small islet in the cove of the cape open until you have the dead tr6es 
 nearly S. S. E., (compass,) and then steer over for them ; as it will be prob- 
 ably young flood, it is necessary to keep the starboard or sand island side 
 of the channel, and if near high water, this island, in running up, must 
 be kept open on the starboard bow ; otherwise, the approach to it would 
 be too near for safety : on reaching the Clatsop channel, steer up lor 
 Young's Point, keeping in 5 or 6 fathoms water ; the sand-shoals on 
 either side are very bold ; when abreast of Astoria, moor with an ebb and 
 flood anchor, with open hawse, to the northward and westward. 
 
 If the intention be to take the Clatsop channel, the same directions are 
 to be observed in passing the north spit. When the Leading-in cliff is 
 open, instead of hauling up for the cape, steer direct for the Clatsop vil- 
 lage on Point Adams, which will take you into fair channel- way ; the 
 breakers on each side will be visible : keep in the middle and steer up for 
 Young's point, following the directions as before given. 
 
 In coming out, the state of the bar may be distinctly seen firom the top 
 of the cape, but due allowance must be made for the distance : the surf 
 beating on the cape is a good guide ; if there is much of it the swell will 
 be very heavy and sharp between the north and south spits, if it does not 
 actually break : the best time is with a northwest wind and about half 
 ebb ; you will then have tide enough to carry you to sea. 
 
 I look upon it as always dangerous to drop anchor in the channel be- 
 tween the cape and the end of the north spit ; if it is done, it should only 
 be in case of absolute necessity, and not a moment is to be lost when 
 possible to proceed out or in : if the ship gets off with only the loss of an 
 anchor, she may consider herself fortunate. The sea breeze or northwest 
 and westerly winds blow at times very fresh ; a sure indication of them 
 IS a thick hazy bank in the west, to seaward. 
 
 I hop? these directions may be of use to you. After any one has gone 
 into the Columbia river and out again, he will be very lucky if both his 
 patience and anxiety are not worn out ; I know of no place where it is so 
 likely to be tried. 
 
 The end of the south spit is less disUnctly miurked than that of thfr 
 2 
 
[476] 10 1^ 
 
 north, but generally a deep swell will be perceived to form on it without j 
 breaking ; avoid at all times to approach it too close. 
 
 The sea is much heavier on the bar with the flood-tide. The second , 
 sheet of the Columbia river shows the new and direct channel above 
 Tongue point, explored by the expedition ; it is convenient, and avoids 
 all detention as to tide and liability to ground; the pilots are unac- 
 quainted with it. From off Tongue point steer direct for Bare bluff, until 
 up with west end of Termination island, and then for the dead tree on 
 that island. The chart will, however, be your best guide. -^f 
 
 «^uU ■ I am, very respectfully, &c., d&c, 
 
 f- CHARLES WILKES. 
 
 Com. A. J. Dallas, U, S. N., Washington. 
 
 
 Washington, April 20, 1843. 
 
 \ Since these directions were written, I have little to add except some 
 general cautions. 1. The entrance should never be attempted when the 
 passage between the north and south spits is not well defined by the break- 
 ers on them ; it is equally dangerous, whether it be concealed by the sea's 
 'breaking all the way across, or so smooth as not to show any break. 
 
 2. With a moderate breeze, the wind is apt to &il, or fall light, in the 
 ipassage between the north and south spits, and leaves a vessel at the 
 mercy of a strong tide and heavy swell. 
 
 \ 3. The best time to enter and depart is after half ebb and before quarter 
 
 'flood ; the tide then runs direct through the channels, and is confined to 
 
 them : with the prevailing westerly winds, for those intending to take the 
 
 -north channel, the best time to enter is after half ebb, though the wind 
 
 ' may be scant ; yet the ebb tide, acting on the lee bow, will enable the 
 
 V vessel to keep to windward and avoid the spit on the middle sands. The 
 
 south and southeast winds seldom prevail — they blow during the winter 
 
 season ; the anchorage in Baker's bay during the gales from this quarter 
 
 ^,is rough and much exposed. 
 
 I am, repectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 CHARLES WILKES. 
 Washington City, August 2, 1846. 
 
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