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I. 11 » r> r' ** T r« 1 LONDON UICII.VRI) liF.NlI.KV X; SON, NIAV !U; K I.I NC1\ i.\ SIKKET Publ'slitrs in olrbinatn lo tur .<1lijfBi!) I Q •* ^» /-s 7 7- 3, V H pri:face M\ poorluisbaiKl i)ublishccl sonu' years a^^o his' Diary ill M(;\ic().' I contributed to his wcTk some leaves of mine, proniisinf,'- to pul^lish more whenever I should lind leisure. Encouraj^^ed by many friends and the kind manner in which the above-mentioned frasj^ment was received, I shall carry out my jjromise now. World-stirrintj^ events have taken place since i86S. History has turned another leaf in her eternal book. The P'rench period has come to a close, and ih(; German era has commenced. The old German lCm[jire has risen, like the phanix from its ashes, in richer glory than ever before, and from its radiant throne a fresh and wholesome current is sweepint,^ over our trjobc. Much antiquated dust has been kicked up ; time-honoured prejudices and generally admitted principles are fluttering in the air ; old people look at them rcgrettingly and bewildered. A^A^^ VI Preface. propIu'S) in_[j the end of all thinj^fs and howling a Miserere, whilst the younL,^ generation rejoice, full I hope, and brcatlu; Avith delight the spring air f rational liberty. The genius of the age looks smilingly from its sunny height upon Hying super- stition, carrying tyranny on its jjack. Though it seems to be a law of nature iliat even the most beneficial political or social changes must be ushered in first with bloodshed and tears, it is also natural tl at the feelings of those who saw flow the hearts' blood of their fathers, husbands, or sons, and who with their tears and ruined lives in reality paid and still pay alone for the national hopes bought by such .sacrifices, are not quite in harmony with the feelings of the great majority. Though well aware that the late cruel war made, alas, too many sufferers like myself, and that our grief is felt like a dissonance in the general con- cert of rejoicing, who is cruel enough to blame a poor woman because she mourns her little flower-garden changed by that storm into a wilderness ? Who is unjust enough to accuse Ler of selfishness, or want of patriotism, or narrowness of mind, if she cannot sup- press a shudder on hearing the marches of triumph Preface. VII ooks super- < or the rejoicings of the crowd ? Alas ! in m)' ear is still resounding the din :ind roar of battles, and in my heart are still linecring the cries of the wounded and the heartrending \ 'hispered words of the dying, sending their last greetings and blessings to their bereaved mothers, wives, or chililren. And above all, b(>fore my menfal eye is still a maddening vision — the gory body of ,i dear, kind husbantl. Yes, yes ; I know he di(jd a most glorious death for his beloved king and the independence and glory of his dear Gerr'.any, and his remains are enshrined in a princely tomb, — but alas, he is dead, dead, gone for ever, — and I have only a poor weak woman's heart. Indulgent readers, I am sure, will forgive me if now and then a melancholy or bitter tone vibrates through the following pages ; but I am less sure of being forgiven by another class of readers, who, )n tlie contrarj-, will be indignant and accuse me of want of feeling, or of levity, because I am not always melancholy. As I am afraid that amongst them might be per- sons who.se opinion is of very great value to me, I shall say a few words in self-defence. Vlll Preface. Those who have never experienced great losses or troubles, and know grief as it were only theoretically, who are living quiet and happy under the protec- tion of a kind and beloved husband, surroundeil by a crowd of healthy children, often imagine that they could not survive the loss of one of their beloved, or at least never smile or feel happy again. That is an error. The Almighty, who temper., tin- wind to the shorn lamb, has ordered time and reason to blunt the edge of grief ; the desire or attempt to perpetuate it is unreasonable and sinful and not worthy of a sound-minded person. I consider it to be a duty towards myself and the world, in which I may have to live still many years, to try my I)est to conquer this morbid inclination, and if I succet-d partially in doing so it would be hard and unjust to accuse me of levity, for that I am not void of feeling may be proved by the fact that my hair has become grey since then, — and I have scarcely passed my thirtieth year. In writing the following pages it is not m\ inten- tion to write my biography. I shall only relate what I have seen and observed since 1862, the year in which I was married to Prince Felix zu Salm-Salm. Preface. IX 'Ihis time often years is one of the most memorable in history, inchiding the great American civil war, the catastrophe in Mexico, and tlie fall of tlie Napoleonic empire. During the American war I was almost al- ways with my husband; I followed him also to Mexico, and was not only a mere spectator in the great and sad tragedy enacted there. During the last French war ! was with the army from the commencement to the i:nd, ami afterwards I visited Rome and Spain. Everywhere my position enabled me to become acquainced with the leading persons, and to be an eyewitness of the most important events. It may therefore; be supposed that I have something to tell. .Sujiported by a very good memory and a carefully arnl regularly kept diary, I shall try my best to make my account as interesting as possible, and if my book may Ik,- insignil" ■ X as a literary production, I hope it will not tire the patience of the reader. Agnes zu Salm-Saim. lioim cjii tlic-Rhinc, 1874. Some St: m.i W mi hii tui Who M m T CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. BOOK I. IN THE UNITED STATES. CHAPTER I. Some Words to the Reader— The W.ir Excitement in the United States— The falling and the rising Military Stars— McClellan Com- mander-in-Chief— Organising the Army— His first Review— Visit to Washington— Visiting the Camps -General Louis Blenksr— Ger- man Refugees— I'rince Felix zu Salm-Salm— What happened to him and to me— The old, old Story— End of the chapter, and turning a new leaf » <^'b'^ 3 CHAPTER n. Who governs the United States ?— How it is done— Trying my wings —Senator Harris— Albany— Governor Morgan, the woman-hater— My lirst battle— \'ictory-Salm, Colonel of the 8th N. Y. Regi- ment-Arrival in Aldy— I'.reaUing up a camp— Ride to ClnntiUy— The country-seat of a Royal Siuart 23 Xll Contents of the First I 'ohime. CHAPTER III. Kctuniint; to Wnsliini^ton — Huinsidc's defeat at I'^cdcricksbiirf;— Kc- tuminjj to the camp — Our birthday — How the soldiers celebrated it- -A curious birthday cake — Aquaia Creek — Our canvas jjalace — General Hooker commanding,' the I'otomac army — Our factotum, old Cirojben — (ieneral Sickles — I lis sumptuous festival — How Uncle Sam cared for his soldiers — Mr. and .Mrs. Lincoln \isitinj; the c.imp — The President's wife — Portrait of President Lincoln — S.dm's re;;inient disbanded — Rcturnint; Home — Reception in \V.ishin,L;lon — In New ^'ork — .V festiv.d in Hamilton Park^ Salm presented with a sword of honotu' — .V soldier's b.ill — I must attem])t a si)eech— Turning another leaf. . . . Page 33 CliAl'TI'.R IV. Our New ^■l)|•k life — In a .Methodist's house — .Salm, Colonel of the 6Sth Rci^imcnt N.^■.V'. — In partibiis-Xs.iir.wMmy^ difticulties — .Salm authorised to laise a brigade — His and Corvin's rccruitinj; plan favoured by Secretary of State W. H. Seward -.In audience with President Liiiciiin —.Secretary of War Stanton djiposinj^ — .•\ visit to ISlenker's farm — The battle of Chanccllorvillc— Defeat of Hooker — Superseded by Cleneral Meade — The glorious battle of (iettvsburg- -General Sickles severely wouniled — The New Vo;!: Riots — Mrs. Bennett - .Mr. James Gordon Hennett — His .Son — Fort Washington -The tirst apijcarance of Master Jimmy — Mrs. James Speier — The Spiritualist l^xcitcmp'U — .Mrs. Anna Sugdon, a pretty knocking, and Mrs. Heath .\dams, a writing, medium — Spiritual St'anci-s at my house— At Mrs. liennett's — The flying mvisic-book — M Mrs. S])eier's - .X t.ible knocked off i* '-^gs — \ dctec teii tip- ping mctlimn — Pad state of affairs — I go out recruiting to Wash- ington . . . . 52 CIIAPTKR V. The Provost-Marslial-Cicneral U.S., C/cncral James Fry — My success — Governor \'ates,of Illinois — Lovers of spirits among high-spirited gentlemen— I become a captain, commanding a company— Life in Washington — ^Lulamevon Corvin— Sanitary arrangements in the United States — The Sanitary and Christi.in Commissions How the Government honoured dead soldiers — National cemeteries — A hospital city— Salm again on the war-path — My journey to Nashville, Tenn. — Returning to Washington . . .Si Contents of the First Volume. Mil sbiir<(-- Kc- ctlubintcd 13 jKilacc — r factotum, i\al — 1 low uln \isitiil;4 ■nt Liiicolii Reception on Park — ill — I must onel of the ifticulties — recruiting; 11 audience iipiKJsin^; — -Defeat of s battle of New Yo.!: Son— fort Mrs. James )n, a pretty — Spiritual luisic-book itecteii tip- ; to Wash- Uy success K'h-spirited ly— Life in jnts in tlic ons How meteries — journey to . Si CIIAPTRR VI. Madame von Corvin and 1 travel from \\'ashington to Bridfje- pnrt, Alabama— .American railroads — Pittsburg — Meetinj; Charles Scliurz — How he was received there— Louisville, Kentucky Nasluille, Tcnn. — The St. Cloud Hotel -'rravellinj.; with a mili- t.'ry train — Why 1 stop the train— Arrival in Bridgeport — The camp on the Tennessee island — The hospital — Traffic with the rebels — Salt serving instead of money — Neighbours— E.xiiecting a rebe, surprise — Bridgeport— Colonel Taylor — Rev. Gilford and family — Dangerous roads — Fort I'rince Salm — Life on the island — Excursion to Chattanooga — Major-Gencral J. Steedman — The Match-bridge at Whiteside — Lookout Mountain — Fighting Joe's rock -The rebels advancing— Salm leaving the island alone — Cut off from Nashville iiy General Hood— How we i)assed our time — \'isits received and paid — Generals LMannon and Granger — Rather dangerous — Pleasure trips to Stevenson — ^'ictories — The 6Sih Regiment leaving the island — The deserted camp — Dan- gerous position^Nightly disturba- -^i— Meeting Salm and Steed- man in Stevenson after the victorious battles — Christmas in Alabama — W'c leave all for Nashville- Colonel and Madame von Corvin return to Washington, and I go with Salm to ISridgeport — He is commander of the post — His raids against the rebels — His staff — Captain Johnson and his wife, my sister, arrive — Di'ficullies in reference to promotion — To remove these I am sent to \Vash- ingtori Page 103 CHAPTER VII. On board the 'General Lyttle'— In Washington— L'p-hill work — Senator Yates — Go with Groeben to New York —Governor I'enton— Governor tiilmorc of New Hampshire — Return to Wash- ington — Victory — Receive the General's commission for Salm — Living at Corvin's in Georgetown — Short sketch of war events — Characteristic of General Grant — The assassination of Lincoln — Attempt against Secretary Seward — Impression made by that catastrophe — The Funeral — -Andrew Johnson, the new President — Mr. Fielil, .Assistant-Secretary of the Treasury — Returning to tlic war — Felix in Dalton, Georgia - Arrival in Chattanooga — No trains — Gel a locomotive -Riding on the cow-catcher — A journey from Dalton to Cleveland A fearful night in the woods — Dangers XIV Contents of the First Volume. of raihvay-travcllinj; — A narrow escape — I get a Ijaby of my sis- tor's — Starting for Atlanta, (jCorgia — State of the country— Our life in Atlanta — Leaving for Savannah — Fort Pulaski — An excur- sion to Augusta — Dangers of the Savannah rivers— Our steamer, the ' Fanny I.ehr,' running on a snag— Sticking in the mud — The alligators — Assistance arriving — Continue our journey — Coming up with the ' Robert Lehr,' which strikes a snag and goes down— Re- turning to Savannah- End of the war— doing via Baltimore to Washington— Living in Georgetown at Corvin's — Forming new plans — Salm resolves to go to Mexico — Groeben is to go with him — I remain in Washington — Take a house in that city together with the Corvias — Our life — Excursions — Colonel Moore — Leaving for Mexico — Good-bye to President Johnson — On board the ' Man- hattan ' — Father Fisher — Arrival in Havannah — Surprise — Meeting Salm — Arrival in Vera Cruz Page 140 BOOK II. M E X ICO. CHAPTER I. \'ora Cruz — Great gra\'cyard — A Mexican diligence — Robbing the diligence— A gentlemanly spon— Paper dresses — Teria Templada --'(iet out if you can '- -Pulque — In an Indian hut — Orizava — i'uebla- The plateau of Mexico — General Zcrnian — Baron Magnus 181 CHAPTER II. Origin of the City of Mexico — The Alameda — The Pasco Nuevo — A Mexican gentleman on horseback— Promenade de la Viga— The floating islands— Theatres — I'lace d'Armes — The Cathedral — The Sangrario — Disput.icion Iturtjide — Aqueducts- The National Mu- seum — The Sancluario de (niadaloupe — Its wonderful origin— The Creole Virgin — Chapultepcc - Ilunniiing-birds — Mexican houses and life — Mexican ladies— The Indians— ^A Ranchcro — Mexican m.irket , . , . . . .... -197 -I Contents of the First Voltinic. XV y of my sis- 3untry— Our — An excur- )iir steamer, c mud — The -Coming up down — Re- [ialtimore to orming new go \\ ith him :ity together re — Leaving d the ' Man- se — Meeting . Page 140 lobbing the a Tcmpladp ut — Orizava in — Baron . i3i 3 Nuevo — A i Viga — The icdral — The alional I\lu- nrigin— The can houses o— McNii an • ">7 CHAPTER III. Marshal Bazaine — Madame la Marcrhale — F'rincess Iturbide — Tacubaya-San Augustin — A projected important mission — Mow it ended — We go on an expedition — Meeting the enemy — Result- Arrival in Tulancingo — Order to evacuate — Jimmy — Carabajal. the robber-general — March to I'ucbla — Meeting tlie Kniperor Maxi- milian — The 'woman in white' — I fall' ill — C.eneral panic — Returning to Mexico — The family Ilube — Departure of the French — The Emperor leaving for (^i-'cretaro — Salm going after him— I am left behind— General Marqucz— C.eneral \'idaurri — Cood news — The battle of San Lorenzo — Marquez a coward — Porlirio Diaz before Mexico Page 233 CHAPTER IV. Fearful dreams — My escape from Tacubaya — Goi,.g to Mexico — Colonel Leon — My propositions to the Corman Colonels — Nego- tiations — Madame I5az-- A sad mistake rewarded by a bulL't — At the head-quarters of Porfirio Diaz— Mr. Hube my interpreter — Return to Mexico — Two volleys fired at me — No harm done — A thunderstorm as a peace-maker — Haron M.agnus retains me in Tlexico— What resulted from it — -Confusion in Tacubaya— A kind invitation to go to Jericho, or elsewhere beyond the sea — Will not go— Female generalship against Mexican strategy — General Baz — Permission to go to Escobedo — Thirty-seven letteis of recom- mendation — My journey to Queretaro — Mexican justice . :6r § CHAPTER V. ; Anivnl l)eforo (Hieretaro — V^isit to Escobedo's head-quarters — One I who had 'known me intimately' — Journey to San Luis I'otosi— Lieut. -Colonel Aspirez — An audience with President Juarez — M. Iglcsia— The fall uf (hieret.iro — The Emperor and mv hus- band prisoners— Journey to Oucretaro — San TeiTsita --My first interview with the Emperor — His prison — ', arrange a meeting between the Flmpcror and General Escobedo — What hajipened in tlic H.icienda do 1 tcicules- General Refugio Gonzales a .Marplot — The convent of the Capucliins — The Emperor forced to remain in a grave vault- Colonel \'illanue\a ..... 2S1 XVI Contents of the First J oliime. CIIAriER VI. Mv plans to save the Kmiicror — Wliat Consul Hahnscn thought of them— \'isit to the ICnipcror at midnight — A letter to Juarez — Politeness of Escobedo — Preparing to go to San Luis — Consul Hahnsen's fear justified — His sleeping partner — Another audience with Juarez — My pleading for delay — Mr. Iglcsia on my side — \'ictory — Return to (Hicretaro — A wide-awake ])artncr of Mr. Hahn?en— .A fearful journey — How I looked — .Scene of my arrival ill Ma.xiinilian's prison describeil by another eye-witness . I'agc 294 CIIAl'TKR VII. My husband's plans for escape — I do not believe in them — I offer to go to .Mexico to fetch ISaron Magnus, lawyers, and money — Delays — How I managed Kscobedo — .\ telegram makes my journey superihious — Consul Hahnsen again in a fright — Judge Hall — Arrival of the Foreign Ministers in Querctaro — Impression made liy it — Baron Magnus— Money no object— The Austrian and Heigian Ministers — Mr. Curtopassi — .My ])lan to save the Kmperor — Money wanted — Raron Magnus gone to St. Luis — Colonel Villa- nueva — Colonel I'alacios — How I tempt him -Two bills for one hundred thousand dollars each, but no cash— ^liaron Lago in deadly fear for his neck— His cowardice 303 tliiiu^'ht of to Juarez — uis— Consul cr audience my side — icr of Mr. f my arrival i . I'agc 294 1— I offer to nd money— s iv.y journey idge Hall— ession made .ustrian and the Emperor ."oloncl Villa- bills for one ago in deadly • 303 BOOK I. IN THE UNITED STATES VOL. I. -S' '4, 4 CHAPTER I. Some Words to the Reader— The War Excitement in the United States— The faUini; and the rising Military Stars— McClellan Com- mander-in-Chief— Orjjanising the Army—His first Review— Visit to Washinj^'ton — Visitini; tlic Campr -Ceneral Louis Blcnker— Ger- man Refugees— I'rincc Felix zu Salm-Salni— What happened to him and to me—The old, old Story— End of the c]iai)ter, and turning a new leaf. I SHALL not follow my diary day for day. Such a proceeding- would only produce tedious repetitions, and extend niy book to an unjustifiable length. I do not pretend to write history ; I shall give only my personal experiences, and though trying my best to judge persons and events impartially, I am doubtful whether I shall succeed, as \ery wise phi- losophers assert diat in women subjective feeling prevails over objective reason — in a word, that their heart is always running away with their brain. As I cannot help being a woman, I beg the reader to excuse, on the ground of this deplorable fact, opinions and views perhaps differing from his own. I am not writing my biography either, and I am therefore dispensed from the necessity of describing my cradle, the emotions I experienced in admiring B2 r^\ir^ .i.^^ i b cen aristo- ;s. Ill amilics, ;h more kcd his ud qua- and a u; knew tratci^y ; .Icrstood |ief — sur- mp of a .;n it in niandii\<4' American id indif- jrmcd a lortmcnt, \\\ Life. never been again in m)- life. My husband was in the position he desired, and perfecd)' contented, and Avc loved each other very much. When the Potomac arm)' arrived at the Rappa- hanoc, there "were no means ready to cross that river, and General Burnside had to wait eight precious days, which were not lost liy the Confede- rates. Corvin wrote to Europe, that if Burnside crossed the Rappahanoc we should experience a second edition of the Berezine batde, no miracle preventing such a disaster. Me was right. Burnside crossed that ri" r ; the bloody battle of Fredericks- burg was fought in Deceniber, 1S62 ; and had P)urnsic not been wise enough to profit b)' a most unusually stormy night, and to recross the river, the whole army would have been lost, as it was standing on a plain surrounded with hills, which were occupied b)- the Confederates. Salm was not in that battle. The 8th New York Regiment, and Stahl's whole division, halted at a place near the Potomac, and Salm sent word for me to come. I went down the ri\'cr on a gunboat, and drove from the landincf to the camp in an ambulanco. .Salm's regiment was encamped in a pine grove, on the slope of a hill not far from a village where Stahl had established his head-quarters. It was a beautiful spot, and the weather was extremely mild and fine on December 25, .Salm's and my birthday. The sun was shining- brightly, and the birds were .smging in the grove. Scarcity of Food. OD In the commencement of the Avar, each regiment liad its band ; liut this ^vas found superfluous, and afterwards only each brigade or division had one. Stahl sent one of these bands to serenade us in the morning, and the soldiers of the regiment had pre- pared a surprise for us. They had laid out a little garden with much taste, in the old Italian style. The Ijeds, into which it was divided, Avere surrounded with stones, of which also figures were formed. Little shrubs and trees were planted, and on one bed was standing what looked like an enormous birthday cake. It was a soldier's joke, for a real cake being- out of tlie question, they had made one of mud, and ornamented it as is done by the confectioners in Germany, with green leaves, coloured sand, and stones representing fruit. We A\ere then very badly off foi food in the cam[), for the enem)' had succeeded in capturing several provision trains. r\)r many days we had, indeed, nodiing l3tit salt pork — and not much of it — anil hard tack. T'v' soldiers soaked the latter in water, and fried it with the salt pork ; the}- prepared a dish whicli was at least eatable. Tlie officers had nothing else, for the roads in \^irglnia were at that time bad beyond all description, and provision vendors were not permitted t(j come to the cam.p at that time, for fear of being intercepted bj- the enem\-, and the regimerit sutlers were long ago exhausted, D2 36 Ten Years of my Life. When the officers came to conp^ratuh^tc us, we wished, of course, to offer them some refreshment ; and witli the utmost difficult}' Sahn procured four bottles of very vile whisky, for which he had to pay eight dollars a bottle. Sugar and some lemons were procured also, and we could treat our guests with a punch which found immense favour with them, though it was a most abominable, abundantly watered stuff We were, however, as merry and happy as could be. After a time, in January, 1863, we received orders ,0 march to Aquaia Creek, where a good number of troops were assembled. The march there was very difficult and disagreeable, for the roads were, as mentioned before, beyond d(,'scrip- tion. The soldiers sunk up to their knees in the mud, and the waggons and guns were often not to be moved by a whole herd of horses or mules. This state of tiie roads made war jiearly im- possible for both parties, and we expected that we should remain a good vhile, perhaps the whole winter, at Aquaia Creek, and arranged ourselves accordingly. Salm procured a large hospiti\l tent, which was decorated very tastefully and even gorgeously ; for amongst the soldicurs of his regi- ment were workmen of all trades : upholsterers, carpenters, &c. The; te-nt was made less transparent by doubling and decorating it with white and red woollen damask, arranged in festoons, between mm Tent Furniture. 37 •which Avcrc fastened flai^^s. The board floor was covered with a carpet, and our salo>. was provided with a splencHd sofa, which the soldiers had very skilfully made. Though the cushions were only straw, they were well made, and covered with damask. The admiration of everybcdy was, how- ever, a larL';e mirror which Salm, with great trouble, had procured from a neighbouring village, imagining that no lady could be happy without a looking-glass. I had, however, little need of it, as my toilet in the field was as simple as possible. I had a black and a grey riding dress — 1 must have a change, as we not rarel)- got drenched in our excursions on horse- back — and tw( uniform-like costumes, which I adopted for tlu; whole war-time in the field, con- sisting of a petticoat ialling to my ankles, and a tight-fitting jacket, both oi cloth. Our bedroom looked also splendid ; for the soldiers had made (jf boards a large bedst' ad, and provided it with a straw mattress, i ver which was spread a buffalo skin, and another, together with blankets, served as a coverlet. 0\or our heads arched a canopy, decorated with whiio and red damask, and the whole looked quite .,ij.nd. We possessed, also, a tin service for six persons, not to forget half a dozen of knives and forks, so that we were enabled to entertain a guest or two. Behind our canvas palace was a smaller tent, whi-^-h served as a kitchen and a dormitory for my negro 38 Ten Years of my Life. servant girl, \vliom I had bron!^d^t with mc from Washuigton, and a shed was used as a stable for our horses. Starvation was at an end now, for victuals of all kinds were abundant. W'e had our owi-i cateicr, who provided us with all the delicacies of the season, and our wine cellar, which was dug in the ground, contained bottles of the most different shajoes and contents. When it became certain that we Avere to stay all the winter Avhere we were, the camj) assumed soon the aspect of an improvised town. General Hooker, who commanded the corps, and of whom I shall speak directly, permitted the families of the officers and soldiers to visit and stay witli them, and the whole camp was teeming with women and cliiklren. In fact there was scarcely- one officer wlio had not his wife, mother, sister, or cousin with him, and beside the tent sprang up like mushrooms one shanty or blockhouse after the otlier. The country around w^as fine, the weather mostly mild and pleasant, and everybody onl)- thinking how to amuse himself and others. I felt as liappy as could be, and remember still with delight that time. Whilst we were there we wr;re jolne'l !>}• a rela- tive of my husband, Mr. v. d. Groeben, a former captain of the Holy Father's ami)', for wliom Sahn procured a captain's commission. Old Groeben, as A Camp Supper. 39 wc called him, though he was not old, became much attached to us, and contributed immensely to our comfort. He installed himself as our major-domo, managed all our affairs, and arranged all pleasure parties and the like. He was a somewhat j^edantlc, queer man, who grumbled alvvaj's and at everything, though he was b)- no means saturnine or of bad temper, but, on the contrary, rather full of a (piiet good-humour. He was everywhere with us, th(nigh it cost him many sighs and groans to follow us across the country, for he was a very indifferent horseman, and, warned by numerous tumbles, he preferred whenever he could a seat in a boat or ambulance to one in the saddle. As w(^ had to do nothing but amuse ourselves, and kill the time agreeabl}-, scared)- a da)- [jassed without some excursion, pleasure party, dinner, or ball ; and for the entertainment of the soldiers care was tal::::i likewise. Some of these festivals were indeed sumptuous, and I especially remember one given b)- General Sickles, in a hall improvised from canvas b)- uniting a dozen or more large hospital tents in a convenient manner. This innnense tent was decorated inside and outside with Hags, garlands, flowers, and Chinese lamps in great profusion, and otteretl a iair)--like aspect. The supper laid under the tent for about two hundred jjersons, ladies and gentlemen, could 40 Ten Years of my Life. not have been better in Paris, for the famous Delmonico from New York had come himself to superintend the repast, and brought with him his kitchen aides and batteries, and immense quantities of the choicest provisions and dehcacies, together with plate and silver, and whatever was required to make one forget that it was a camp supper. The Avines and liquors were in correspondence with the rest, and no less, I suppose, the bill to be paid. It is true it was an unheard-of luxury displayed on this occasion, and had such a festival taken place in a German camp it would have created through- out the country a bad feeling, and the press would have commented on it in no pleasing manner. It was, however, far different in America. Soldiers and people liked and approved such display ; they would have blamed parsimonious generals, whilst they did not control too closely those who freely spent what they perhaps made in consequence of their position. Moreover, many of them were very rich. The soldiers did not grudge the generals their luxurious habits either ; they found an amuse- ment in such festivals, und were sensible enough to understand that they could not all partake in them. It would have been different If the Government had been stingy towards the army, but that was by no means the case. 'Uncle Sam' opened his strong boxes, and > he army was paid and supplied with provisions in a manner quite unheard of in Europe. Uncle Sam's Slronc J] axes. 4» If accidents inseparable from such a war prevented the arrival of provisions for a time, there was always plenty, and not only the main necessities of life, but things were furnished which never appear in the stores of a German arm)', and which would be there considered as preposterous. Though the immense distances and the bad state of the roads made this branch of the service extremely difficult, the prac- tical sense of the Americans surmounted all diffi- culties, and soon after the commencement of war things in the commissariat of the army went like clockwork. The rich American people did not care if some hundreds of millions were perhaps squan- dered ; trade in the North States was as brisk as ever ; nay, on the contrar)', war, instead of hindering,, seemed to increase it. Money was circulating more freely than ever, and instead of suffering, the country, and especially the cities, seemed to improve by the war. The soldiers lived well, for they were paid well. Everything was furnished to them liberally by the Government ; nothing was deducted from their pay, which amounted even for private soldiers to fourteen dollars a month. Everything was doni; for the soldiers of the nation by the National Government, and the utmost care taken to procure for them all possible commodities, and private industry specu- lating in that direction was never hindered except by the requirements of discipline. The connection 42 Till Years of )iiy Life. between the army and home was carefully consi- dered, and the postal arrangements were wonderfully res^ular, notwithstanding" the enormous distances. Virj^inia alone is as large as all Germany, and the distance from the Mississippi to New York as great as the waiolc length of luirope. It was indeed interesting to observe the wonder- ful celerity with which the Americans proceeded. ' Adams's Express Comi)an}' ' and the telegraph were institutions which I might say followed the skir- mishers. At the sam(,' time, with the first tent generall)' grew up a shanty with the firm of 'Adams's Express,' which conveyed parcels of every size to the army and throughout the Union. In America it was thought desirable that the soldiers should know what their comrades were doing hundreds of miles off. One of the first things done was there- fore the arrangement of a very regidar newspaper service. Stations were established between the camp and the next railroad or steamship landing, and newsboys on horseback, nearl}' disappearing between papers, came in full gallop, and brought the welcome sheets to the soldiers, who bought thou- sands of copies, paying with pleasure double prices and more. A department highly important for the comfort of the soldiers is that of the sutlers, and I frequently wondered how miserably this branch was arranged in the German army, Avhich in other respects is so Camp Life at Aqiiaia Creek. 43 far superior to any other. I shall speak of this and many other thin^i^i's in their place, but onl)' mention here that the care for the extra and private comfort of the soldiers \vas in the American army not left to such low and destitute wretches as we have seen disjj^racing the German by their rapacity. The sutlers were regularly appointed and enrolled, and wore uniforms, and many of them were very sub- stantial people, kept well-supplied stores, and had many subordinates and agents. Of abuses and other inconveniences in this respect, I shall have occasion to speak later. Liquors were prohibited in the American army, which would appear (|uitc intole- rable to German soldiers ; but with Americans it was necessar}', especially in regiments where the Irish clement prevailed. Germans are reasonable in the use of liquor ; Americans. I am sorry to say, are in general not ; and besides it must be considered that discipline in an army formed like the American could not be maintained in the same manner as in the German army. Of the sanitar)' arrangements I must speak more at length later ; I shall drop the subject, and return to our delightful camp life near Ac^uaia Creek, which was a string of amusements. In the daytime we went aliout visiting our neighbours, amongst whom were ver)- pleasant people. And every evening we had receptions in our tent. We played a rubber of whist, whilst 44 Ten Years of my Life. Groeben was brewing punch or cggnog for our guests, who retired always at midnight. There were, of course, plenty of newspaper reporters in our camp ; and as they had not much to write about the war, they described our sports and festivals, which descriptions tempted many [)eople to i)ay us a visit ; and even Mr. Lincoln, or perhaps Mrs. Lincoln, could not resist. The an- nouncement of this visit caused, of course, great excitement ; and preparations were made to enter- tain them as well as possible. They were to stay at General Hooker's head-quarters ; but the real inaitre de plaisirs was General Sickles, who had been in Europe, and who knew all about it. He wanted to introduce even some novelties of a monar- chical smack, and proposed to appoint for the time of the visit some ladies of honour to attend on Mrs. Lincoln. This plan was, however, not to the liking of the American ladies, each of whom thought herself quite as sovereign as the wife of the President. President Lincoln's features arc well known. People said that his face was ugly, tic certainly had neither the figure nor features of the Apollo of Belvedere ; but he never appeared ugly to me, for his face, beaming with boundless kindness and bene- volence towards mankind, had the stamp of intellec- tual beauty. I could not look into it without feel- ing kindly towards him, and v/ithout tears starting to PJiotographiii^^ Preside 11/ Lincoln. 45 my eyes, for over the whole face was spread a mehin- choHc tinge, wliich some will have noticed in many persons who are fated to die a violent death. A German author, I think it is L. Tieck, says somewhere that one loves a person only the better on discovering in him or her something funny or ridiculous, and this remark struck me as very correct. We may worship or revere a perfect person ; but real warm human affection we feel towards such as do not overawe us, but stand nearer to us b)' some ini[)erfection or peculiar weakness provoking a smile. President Lincoln's appearance was peculiar. There Avas in his face, besides kindness and melancholy, a sly humour flickering around the corners of his big mouth and his rather small and somewhat tired- looking eyes. He was tall and thin, with enormously longloose arms and big hands, and long legs ending Avith feet such as I never saw before ; one of his shoes might have served Commodore Nutt as a boat. The manner in which he dressed made him appear even taller and thinner than he was, for the clothes he Avore seemed to be transmitted to him by some still taller elder brother. In summer, Avhen he Avore a suit made of some light black stuff, he looked like a German village school niaster. He had very large cars standing off a little, and when he Avas in a good humour I always expected him to flap Avith them like a good-natured elephant. 46 Ten Years of my Life. NotwilhstaiKling- \\\-:. peculiar fiL^uiv, he did not appear ridiculous ; he had of the humourous just as much ahout him as the people like tM see in [>ublic characters the)' love. Lincoln was beloved by the Americans more than any other man ; he was the most popular President the United States ever had, Washington and Jackson not excepted. 1 need not say that everything was done b)' the commanding generals to entertain Mrs. Lincoln and the President, who on reviewing the troops was everywhere received with heartfelt clieers. After having lived now for a number of }'ears in Europe, I can well understand the astonishment of Germans newly arriving in America on seeing the simple and unceremonious mannei in Avhich the President is treated. Though standing at the head of 40,000,000 of people, and having during their reign more power than any European king, neither Lincoln, nor John- son, nor Grant behaved with half the conceit that we notice in a Prussian ' Regierungsrath.' The title of the President is 'your Excellency;' but it is only used by foreigners. x\mericans call him Mr. President, or simply by his name. There were before the White H^^use no sentinels, not even a porter ; everybody could enter the residence of the nation. There were one or two officials in citizens' dress in the house to answer questions ; but no crowd of gorgeously liveried footmen was to be seen, and A Rcccptijii on Ncio Years Day. 47 c\cn at j^rcat public receptions cverytliing went off as simpl}' as [jossible, onl)' such arrangements l^eing matle as were necessar)' for prevcntin_L,^ confusion. There wa.; no particular dress n.'quired, and soldiers coming directly from the camp in their cloaks went sim[)ly in and shook hands with their highest chief. Such a reception, ftjr instance, at New Year's Day was very hard work for the President, especially for Lincoln, whose receptions were always exces- sively crowded, because people loved him. All visitors entered a certain door, and passed — as they came — in a single file to the Presi/.ent, to whom a marshal called out the names. The President shook hands with everyone, saying, at least, ' How dt) you do ? ' if not having occasion for a few words more. The file passed out through a window on a kind of bridge constructed of simple board. This hand-shaking was a most fatiguing exercise, for it had to be repeated several thousand times, and President Lincoln's shoulder was always swollen after it, so that he could scarcely use his arm for a few days. Notwithstanding this absence of ceremony, the President is respected as much as any king. Out- ward pomp is not required with a free people. An Asiatic despot would be nothing without his guards, his throne, and gorgeous dresses, &c. The real power of a prince is based on the love of his nation, and the comparative simplicity with which our august 48 Ten Years of my Life. empress and emperor appear now always in pu1;lic Is ? verv sii^-nificant token. I explained before that the American soldiers were eny^aged only for a certain time, and that the commission of the colonel and other officers expired when the regiment was disbanded ; they became then again simple citizens, receiving neither pay nor pensions, if not disabled in the service. Did they want to serve again, they had to look out for a new commission, and it happened frequendy that they accepted one of a lower degree ; that is, former colonels became perhaps captains or lieutenants. Nay, I know a cr.'^e where a colonel entered as a private soldier In a regirient, which was commanded by a colonel who had served before as a private in his former regiment. When the war commenced it was expected to last onl\- a short time, and the 8th New York Regiment, -which was one of the first formed, was cncratred only for two years. Its term therefore ex- pired in the spring of 1863, and Salm was, of course, to be dismissed with his men. He was there- fore anxious to procure a new colonel's commission, which was not so very difficult for him ; l)ut a colonel was only accepted as such by the War Department of the Union if he brought with him a regiment, or, at least, 700 men of It. Had the men of the 8th Regiment chosen to enlist for another term, everj-thlng might have remained as it was, but ■I Arrival at Potomac Landlnsi. 49 lie is the men wanted mostly to n l)Uggenhagen. lie was VOL. 1. E 50 Ten Years of my Life. severely Avoundcd in the battle of iM'odericksburg-, and died in Washington on the New Year's night. He was buried with all military honours through the care of the Colonels Corvin and Radowitz, and Mr. Gau, Secretarj- of the Prussian Legation, in the senatorial churchyard, where he la\' at the side of Captain Schwenke and Lieutenant-Colonel Gerber, who was niurdered by mistake, a jealous lover taking him for another man. We Avent to New York, where the regiment was disbanded. The returning soldiers were received by their fellow-citizens with great rejoicing, and all contributed to do them honour. On the 2nd of May, Mr. Landmann and Mr. Edinger entertained at their expense the whole regiment in Landmann's ' Hamilton park,' and on this occasion the soldiers presented Salm with a testimony of their love and respect, consisting of a magnincent sword of honour, with a solid golden scabbard and hilt with silver ornaments, bearing the following inscription : ' The Soldiers of the 8th Regiment, N.Y.S.V., to their Coloncl Felix, Pr. Salm.' Salm thanked them in some deeply-felt appropriate words, and the whole festival gave general satisfaction. In the evening we had a ball, where all the sol- diers appeared with their wives or sweethearts, whom the)' presented to me, and I held cjuite a reception. I scarcely recognised the well-known faces of the soldiers, who appeared in their citizen dresses. It Dure End of a pleasant period of my L ifc. 5 1 was a very pleasant party, and I felt quite affected b)- the kind and confident manner in which I was treated by these good Germans. At supper I was of course toasted, and when Salni rose to answer, he was silenced by the clamorous demand for a speech from me. I had to comply, and my efforts to express myself in German were received with thundering applause. Thus ended a very pleasant, rather too short, period of my American life, and one of trouble and anxiety commenced. K2 ■ CHAPTER IV. Our Xcw ^'ol■k life — In :i Mcthoilisl"s house — S.ilni, Colducl of the 6Sth Rc.L^inicnt \.\'.\. fii /i/r/Z/'/Av Recruiting diUn ultics — Snlni ;iutlioriscd to raise a brigade — Mis and Corvin's recruiting plan f.ivoured by Secretary of State, W. H. Seward — An ar.dience Avith President Lincoln — Secretary of War Stanton ojiposing — A visit to Blcnker's farm — The battle of Chanccllorvillc — Defeat of Hooker— Superseded by Clencral Meade — The y;lorious battle of CcttysburL,' — ( Icneral Sickles severely wounded —The Xew York Riots — Mrs. JJennett- Mr. fames Cordon Hennett — His Son — Fort Washington — The first appearance of Master Jimmy Mrs. James Speier — The S]Mrilualist I'".xcitcment — Mrs. Anna Sugdnn. a ]iretty knocking, and Mrs. Heath Adams, a writing, medium — Spiritual sc'ana's at my house— .\t Mrs. IJennctt's — The living nuisic-ljook — At Mrs. Speiers --.A table knocked off its legs -A detcrted tip- ping medium — Bad state of affairs — I go out recruiting to Wash- ington, Wi: took private lodgings in 32, Bonil .Street, New York, in the house of Rcv^ Baldwin, a Metliodist preacher. Every Wednesday and, Saturday night prayer meetings were held in a large room adjoining ours, and we were much astonished by the clamorous devotion of the congregation. The s])irit: moved them vehemently, and those who did not know what they were about would have believed tliat the in- mates of a madhouse had broken loose. Their ecstacies were wonderful, and the longer the thing lasted, the louder and wilder and more piercing be- TJtc Sainls and Police. o:) came llic shrieks of the devoted. Dozens of voices cried out, 'Jesus Christ, come down, come down, that Ave can touch )'our ^^arments!" or 'Glory, glorj-, glory!' Many fainted or fell tlown in fits, kicking and beating the ground. One of these nights, when some particular occur- rence must have moved the saints in an unusual manner, the police knocked at our shutters — we lived on the ground-lloor — and told us to stop that fight- ing and shrieking, wliich alarmed the whole street. They were much astonished on hearing that the Methodists were only fighting with the devil, and having no desire to hinder such holy contests, they disappeared awe-struck. We afterwards always went out on those evenings. Salm succeeded in his endeavours to get a new colonel's commission from the Governor of New York, who appointed him colonel of the 6Sth Regi- nient N.Y.V. That regiment was not yet disbanded, and figured still on the list of regiments in the ser- vice, but it had dwindled away to scarce!)- one company who stood in the field. Salm had to reor- ganise the regiment, and opened a recruiting office in liroadway. No. 619, at Maillard's Hotel. He was very sanguine in his hopes, and, being ambi- tious also, he wanted to raise a whole brigade, for which he procured the authorisation and the promise of several colonels /// piD'tibus, to serve under his command. 1 54 Ten Years of my Life. Things had, however, chang-cd very much since 1861. The immense losses sustained in McClellan's peninsular campaign, on the many batde fields and the swamps of Chickahominy ; the hardships which the soldiers had to undergo, the incompetence of most generals, and the barbarous manner in which the soldiers were still treated in the army, had consi- derably cooled down the military enthusiasm of the nation. When the war commenced most people imagined that it would be soon and gloriously ended, and, excited by the political orators, and attracted by the novelty of military life, of which the dark and appalling features were not known yet, an immense number of volunteers rushed to the recruiting offices. In fact, the whole first army consisted of volunteers. That was at an end now, and the Governments of the different States had to resort to all kinds of in- ducements, which, how-ever, did not induce many, and the advantages and promises granted to soldiers had to bo made more alluring every month. The Government of New York offered a bounty of three hundred dollars to everyone who enlisted for three years; and patriotic societies throughout the United States, and the General Government itself, provided means to increase this bounty, which at the end of the war amounted in several States to nearly one thousand dollars. This bounty was, of course, not to be paid at once and in advance, but it was sure to be paid at the end of the war, or after three years, Rccrititing Sharpers. 55 :e or sooner if tlic soldier should be killed, or die when in service, to his heirs. It was very natural that the attention of sharpers, and all sorts of people who wanted to make money in an easy manner, was soon directed to this recruit- ing' business. Promises, however great and sure, have not much attraction for common men ; they prefer a hundred dollars in cash to a thousand to be paid after three )'ears, and there were plenty of people ready to furnisli such cash, well satisfied with the certainty of getting six or ten times the amount after three years. A colonel raising a regiment, and desirous of reaching as soon as possible the number required for his acceptance by the General Govern- ment, could not succeed without the assistance of agents, who hunted out people willing to enlist on payment of a small sum, and to cede all their claims to them. The agents were, however, not the only persons who had an eye to business ; the men on whom they speculated were just as sharp as themselves, and amongst them were precious rogues who liked the money but not the service. Knowing that most of these recruiting agents were sharpers, and not particular in regard to the honesty of their transac- tions, they did not think it a crime to cheat them. Circumstances favoured their fraudulent intentions, and they had hundreds of means to carry them out. In European States everybody is, as it were, labelled 56 Ten Years of my Life. by the police as soon as he is born, and in the books of this institution is to be found his biography. That is not so in America, where the poHcc onl)- take notice of a person when committing some breach of the law. Many persons enlisted under a false name, and deserted, after having received money, to a neighbouring State, where they repeated the same trick. Cases were known in which persons had done this half a dozen times. Those who practised this business were called ' bounty-jumpers,' and the}- were severely punished — if caught. Poor Salm, though a very brave soldier, was very little fit for this kind of business, and became utterly disgusted with it : necessity compelled him to go on as well as he could, but he made indeed but litde progress. It was natural that he reflected on some more effective manner of raising men for his brigade, and as so many people came from Europe attracted by the war, his eyes were longingly directed towards that country where recruiting under such favourable terms would have been the most easy work in the world. There were thousands of \'ounf men who would have liked to emigrate if they could only find the means to pay their passage, and being obliged to serve in the armies of their native countries for 'a very low pay, and no bounty at all, they would most Avillingly serve in that of the United States for a {itw years, on receiving free passage, a round sum of A General Stajf. 57 money, fourteen dollars a month, and after the expi- ration of their term a grant of a considerable number of acres from the Government. The subject was frequently discussed between him and Colonel Corvin, who was much in favour of emigration. Corvin had arrived in Washington with very good recommendations to President Lincoln, who introduced him to the Secretary of State, Mr. Seward, in whose house he was very kindly received. He passed man)- evenings, sometimes alone, with that eminent statesman, who conceived a very favourable opinion of the military talents of the colonel. He offered him repeatedly the command of a regiment, but the colonel declined, not liking the state of mili- tary affairs in the United States, and preferring his position as a war correspondent to the inlluential papers with which he was connected. Mr. Seward even had the intention of making him a general, and em- ploying him in the organisation of agreat general staff, which was an utterly unknown thing in the United States. He caused him to confer on that subject with Senator Wilson, of Massachusetts, who was at the head of the military commission of the Senate. The affair ended, however, in nothing, as it was impossible to make people understand the utility or necessit)- of a general staff. ' The generals had all their staff, and staffs were nuisances ; they required practical field officers.' When the difficulty of raising men was once 5S Ten Years of my Life. spoken of, Colonel Corvln su^q'LiCstcd ihc aliovc- mcntioned itlca to ]\Ir. .Seward, who was radier pleased with it, and thought it practical. lie [n'o- mised to speak about it to the President, and one da}' Salni and tlie colonel had an audience. Tlie colonel who speaks English quite perfectly, exj laincd to the President his and Salni's plan, re- quiring from him authorit}- to raise twenty thousand men for the army of the United States. President Lincoln, his knees drawn up, his head in both hands, and his elbows resting on his knees, listened attentively for about a quarter of an hour. When the colonel liad finished, Mr. Lincoln remained for a time silent, then at once he threw up his long- arms, calling out in his peculiar manner, ' Well, gen- tlemen, that's a very great affair ! But mind, I do not promise )-ou anything for certain, I must first speak to the Secretary of War ! ' In the ensuing conversation he touched on the difficulties into which his Government might get with the luiropean Powers, on which Colonel Corvin said, that if he gave Salm and him authority' to raise twenty thousand men it did not include the authority to raise them in Europe, and what tlie)- thought ex- pedient to do for the purpose would be done on their own danger and responsibility. 'Bring the men,' said Mr. Lincoln, 'you know they will be welcome, and no questions asked.' ' Yes, Mr. President,' answered Corvin, ' but I BLiikcrs Farm. 59 cannot ,L;ct tlicni witliout monc)-, and cannot <,a:t monc;)' witliout )Oiir signature, under the requested authorisation.' Mr. Chittenden, then ' Rej^nster of the Treasury,' to whom Corvin had communicated the plan, liad said that liis Ixankers would be at the colonel's disposition if Lincoln would L;ive such an authorisation. TIk; negotiations ended, however, in nothin_£,^ for Mr. Stanton, whcj was uttci'l\- dis^aisted with foreigners, and besides averse to anything supported by Mr. Scwrird, would hear nothing of such a propo- .sition, and opposed it decidedl)'. I will onl}- mention in reference to this affair a circumstance which is rather characteristic. The Prince and Corvin signed a paper, promising an influential person twenty thousand dollars, if the President would sign the requested authorisation. While Salm was busy all day with his recruiting- affairs, my lift; in New York was by no means agree- able, especially as it was midsummer and the heat overpowering. I accepted, therefore, with pleasure tlie invitation of General Blenker to pass a few- weeks on ' Blenker's Farm,' near Ro(.kville, in the State of New York. Dear old Blenker's home was a place which I re- snember with great pleasure and affection. I have seen grander country-seats, but nowhere have I been received with such heartfelt kindness and hospitality, and nowhere I felt more at home. 6o Ten Years of my Life. It was a delij^htful time. Poor Blciikcr died, I think, in December of the same year. I am glad that I liave had an opportunit)' of doing justice to his memory, for he lias been reviled much by his enemies, who treated him most unjustl}- and shame- fully. I mentioned that heavy fighting was expected to take place soon when my husband's rt^giment ami himself were disbanded. These expectations were more than fulfilled by ' I'ighting Joe,' as General Hooker was called, who crossed the RcfiJi)ahanoc at Kelley's Lord above Fredricksburg, and took up a position near Chancellorsville. Hooker, whose design was said to be to attack the rebels in flank and rear, was attacked himself on the 2nd May, 1863, by Stonewall Jackson, who appeared on his right Hank. The right wing, con- sisting of the 11th Corps, composed onl)- of German regiments, was rolled up like a sheet of paper. Fighting was continued the following dajs with no better success, and Hooker, profiting by an oppor- tune storm of heav)- rain, recrossed the river on the 8th of I^.Iay at night, having lost in these days above twenty thousand men. Hooker was a great favourite Avith the Americans, and as they did not like to lay the fault of this great disaster on his shoulders, the poor Germans had to serve as a scapegoat. They wen; accused of cowardice, and everybody was wToth Consternation at Ifas/iinc'ton. 6i aL,Minst them except those who understood things hotter. These said that neither Napoleon's Old (luard nor the best Prussian troops would h'\\\i been ai)lc to resist this flank attack of Stonewall Jackson, placed as badly as they were. I am no military critic, and only repeat what I heard from some who were supposed to understand war, and also from German officers who took part in that l)attle. Some of these feeling uneasy at the position of their corps, had reconnoitred on their own account, and discovered in time the approach of Jackson's army on their flanl Seeing the imminent danger, they reported it at once to General Howard, a very devout man and zealous abolitionist, with only one arm and no military head ; but the general treated their news with contempt, and answered — like a Chinese — ' that he expected to be attacked in front.' Lee's victorious army advanced rapidly, again with the decided intention of transferrini'' the war to the territory of the Union ; part of his forces crossed the Potomac on June 14th, and entered Mary- land — just as they had done a jear before ; and towards the end of the month Lee took his head- quarters at Magerstown, only a few miles from the glorious battle-field of Antictam. The consternation at Wnshington beggars de- scription. The Pres'.utint called out a hundred thousand men more, to serve for six months, and to 62 Ten Years of Diy Life. be levied from the next tlireatencd States — Mar}land, Pennsylvania, and New York, which State was to furnish seventy thousand men. Many sighed now for iMcClellan, for they dis- covered that their favourite, ' Fighting Joe,' though a very bra\e man and good commander of a corps, was no strategist. At the eleventh hour he was relieved ]))■ General Meade, who at once attacked the rebels, the nth (German) Corps and the ist being in advance. Howard had to fall back before an overwhelming force, to a position near Gettysburg, of which the "cntre was the cemetery, waiting for reinforcements. A great battle ensued on the 2nd of June, and the Germans fought gloriousl}-, well supported on their left b)- the 3rd Corps, imder General Sickles, wlio here lost one leg by a spent cannon-ball. The battle was renewed on the 3rd ; the rebels were cver)'\\here repulsed, and retii'ed on the morn- ing of the 4th, pursued by tiie victorious troops. Though jMeade did not succeed either in annihilating- I^ee or in preventing him from recrossing the Potomac, and retreating towards the Rapidan, he was not blamed and trc'ated as a traitor as McClellan had been, but praised deservedly as the saviour of Mary- land, Penns)lvania, and Washington, though he had lost not less than twenty-three thousand men in dead, wounded, and missing. The Potomac army took their old position on the Rappahanoc. Free NeQ-yoes. ^l I judg'c it nccessai")' to t;ivc a sliort skctcli of these importa't events, as there resulted from tl"icni others whicli (■cciirn-d in New York, and i.^ Avhich Sahii and niNSclf were involved. The military enthusiasm of the people had, as said before, much abated, and recruits were not to be had, notwithstanding- the enormous bounties which were i)aid. Soldiers the Government, how- ever, must have, and a dra!"t was ordered. This measure was very obnoxious to the people, and became still more so to the poorer classes, in con- .sequence of a most foolish law, which permitted drafted peojile to buy themselves off b}- paying three hundred dollars. The Republican' Government had many enemies in New York, where the democratic party was exceedinL^ly strong'. The above-mentioned measure furnished them a welcome means to work en the lower classes, espcciall)' on the verj- numerous Irish element, favourably inclined towards the deu'ocrats l)ecause they hated the negroes. The cause of this hatred was envy and jealousy. The now free negroes arrived in great numbers in New York, and became rivals to the low Irish, who until then, had furnished most house servants, hotel waiters, &c. They were highly indignant that the negroes ' '."he position of the 'Democrats' in America corrosjiondctl to that of the 'Conservatives' in Germany; their extremest l)cnu)crat3 were cah'd Copperheads, and were ia favour of sccesbion and shivery. 64 Ten Years of my Life. should have the same rltj^hts as themselves, that thej^ should be permitted to ride in the same cars as the white [)eoj:)Ie, and no longer be looked upon as biped cattle. New York was then utterly void of soldiers. All militia reuinicnts had been sent to Pennsyl- vania to resist the in\'asion. The police force was not numerous, and the forts were iL;'arrisoned onl)' by a few hundred men. The opportunity for the Ixnl d('si;^ns of the enemies of the Government was very favourable, and they were not slow in usino' it. I h.ave not seen the Irish at home, and cannot judge about them in general. I have become ac- rpiainted with well ' ducated Irish gentlemen and ladies, and found them most intelligent and highly agrccabi-e people. Init the low Irish rabl:)le of New York are t^ most degraded and brutish set of human beings \ know ; f shudder to think of them, and In my opinion they stand far beneath the negroes. They may, Jftm |>'cts, be more highly gifted and talented than Uiosc, but their behaviour is always meaner and rougher ; and the negroes have besides the great advantage over the Irish, that the)- are solier ; a dnmkcMi negro is a rarity, whilst drunkenness is the prevailing state amongst th<' American de- scendants of lu'in. WJien the draft commenced on Saturda)-, July II, in New York, everything seemed to i)ass off Riois in Nciv Yoi'k. 6=; Avith uncxi)ectcd (juict ; Imt on Sunday mischief was l)rcAvin,i4", and on Monda)-, the istli, a storm broke loose, which only found its j)arallel in the events taking" place during- the- reign of the Commune in Paris. The riot commenced with an attack by the mob on a drafting' office, which was destroyed and burned. The excitement sjjread througliout the great city, ami a suelden fur\'sei;;cd the whole low Irish popula- tion. Its only ol)ject seemc:d murder and plunder, and the attacks v.ere directed especially against all persons c(jnncctL:d \vilh the draft, rcpulilican ofticials ami negroes, but also against wealthy people in g^cncral. The tur)' iricreased next day ; it was indeed as if hell had been let loose on the un- fortunate city. The political hue of the riot dis- appeared ; murdering and plundering became its chief objects. Not only men took part in it, women were to be seen ever)\vhere foremost, and even children ; and the ferocit}' of the Irish surpassed everythinrj^ I c\'er read of. Wherever negroes were discovered, they were hung or otherwise barbarously- murdered, and women stuck their knives into still palpitating bodies, and made cruel iun of them. A coloured orphan asjlum, containing several hundreds of coloured children, was burned, and children thrown into the flames. Horrid looking men ])atrolled the streets in troops, searching" houses and plundering" them. VOL. I. F 66 Ten Years of my Life. For four Xow^a^ days and niL;hts these scoundrels tcrrilied the cit)". No dcccntly-drcsscd persons dared to show themselves in the streets, but locked themselves up in their houses, fearing ever)- moment to be visited by the rioters. Poor negroes hid them- selves in cellars, where the)' remained without food for many da)'s. The courage of the mol) was in- creased !))• the evident inability of the authorities to suppress the riot, and rlso b)' their want of decision. Governor Se)mour seemed not to be well ilisposed towards the General Government, and disap^jroved of tile draft. Not wishing to lose his popularity with the Irish element, he acted with blameable leniency and want oi energ)-. The police and the few troops Avere checked and restricted in the use of their arms. They, b)' order of their superiors, had to use only blank cartridges, which of coiu'sc had the same per- nicious effect as experienced everywhere. Wlien the TnbiDic office was attacked, some guns were placed in position a few shots with canist(jr v,'( 'Id. have been sufficient to drive the cowaros howling away; insteatl of that, the hring with blank o^t'trii' 'es en- couraged tliem. The building w,*' .\\ev>.r, saved b)- the efforts of the police force. i\inongst tile better classes of Irish -ere some who disa[)proved much of these honors, and amongst theni was Colonel O'Brien. When a troop of rioters approached his house, he stepped «Ait and addressed them in a conciliatory uKUiner, The Fury of the Mod. 67 cxhortiii!:^" tluMii lo desist from tli^^ir wickedness, lie was answered b)' cries of 'Down with him! he is a traitor — kill him!' He was horribl)- beaten and stabbed, and sunk down on his threshold. Then he, still alive, was dra^j'^ed through the mud. All entreaties of his wife and children were in vain ; the imfortunate man died after havinf,^ being tormented for twenty-four hours. The fur)- ra!.;ed in all districts of the cit)'. If the mol; had finished with the house of one abolitionist, some persons crietl out, ' Off to the Seventh (or any other) Avenue, to the house of Mr. X.' The re_<;iments called from Pennsylvania in the •j^reatcst hurry, who did not hre with blank car- tridges, succeeded in mastering the ricjt. They killed a great many people, but sustained also heavy losses. Salm placed himself at once at the disposition of the City Government, collected some troops from amongst his recruits and others, and led then against the rioters. Durinsj- his aljsence, and v.liilst such excitement prevailed ever)where, I could i> ,)t stay at home and tremble. I wanted to see and te) do — but what, I did not kno\\\ To go in tlu; street in my usual dress would have been madness, and I resolved therefore to [)ut on a dress of my servant girl, Ellen, who was toaccompau)' me as a kind of salei;uard, for she was an Irish girl, and her brogue was then the best /a isscr-jHJSscr. 68 Ten Years of my Life. The scenes I witn(^ss(>d were horribh; and (lis:_;;ust- ing', at the sanu,' time. All tlie lowest j'-as.-.ions were unfettered, and showed themselves in their vilest nakedness. The danger in the strc:cts was ii^rcat, for the few troojjs and police were scarcely to be no- ticed in the sur^inL;' crowd, and the)' were, moreover, mostly employed in protecting the public buildings and offices. The rioters had it all their own \\:\\\ fmd- ing no resistance from the citiz(;ns, v.-ho locked them- selves up in their houses, happy if they were not noted for abolitionist principles or riches, or were uncon- nected with the draft. The poor negro('s darted about like hunted hares — men, women, and children ; and it was heartrending to hear their frantic cries and look into their horror-struck faces if caught b\- the pursuing foe. To interfere would have been utterly useless and dangerous, as was proved by the sad fate of Colonel O'Brien, though his name was one of note amongst the Irish. Seeing that I could tlo nothing, and not wishing to see an)" more, I was glad when I M-as home again. Though Govt;rnor Se)-mour opposed it, the General Governnn nt reniaineer in the world. At his recent death all papers published his biograph), and I ma)' [>resume that he is generally known. 'The last expedition in search of Dr. Living-'stone, in which the Ilawld \\cA uniformly with even the I'.nglish Government, is only one cf the many .samples v>{ the enterprising spirit in \\hich that great cosmopolitan institution, the Ncio Ycrk Herald, was conducted b\- its creator. 70 Ten Years of my Life. He Avas besides a very o-ooci nian, and (;xtrcmely kind to us. His memory will always remain sacred to mc. Mis son and lu:ir lo the many millions lie left is James Bennett, Avho was then a nice dashini;' youn^c,^ man. "S'ouni,;' I'ennett was, and probably is still, an eminent sportsman, who had tin; fmest horses on ilie turf, and who (^xcelled especially in ^achtin^'. His daring' and wonderful trip in his jacht across the Atlantic will still be remembered. Port Washington was a magnificfMit estate' in the English style, with fine grounds and an extensive park. Being a great lover of dogs, I was much in- terested in the live museum of these animals kept by Mr. James. He had not less than fifty of different kinds, all kept in ver}' fine kennels. I was presented with a [Hip of a particularly fine l.)reed, a black and tan long-legged terrier, with a wonderfid head, large clear eyes, and a skin like velv(;t. As it became a most important member of m\" household, tyrannising^ over everybod)-, and myself most of all, and accom- panying me everywhere like my shadow, I owe it to his dignit)- to say something more of this distin- guished fijur-legged gentleman, 'i'he promising pup was solemnly christened 'Jimmy' o\'er a bowl of punch, and taken home; in my pocket. After having been submitted to a bath in mv washing-basin, to re- move all I'cminiscences of tlv; kennel, the interesting infant was nursed alternatel}' 1))' Salm ami m)-self. 71ic Sp/'rilnalisfic Rpidcinic. 71 W'c tried to appease liis \vcll-dcveloi)cd appetite by means of tlui niilk-holth*, 1)ut he despised milk, and •vv(' were in desjjaii", {ox he whined all niglit. 1 low hap[)\' we were on discovcrinG^ that the little darlinf^ took kindly to fried ojsters and tlie }-oIk of hard- boiled ei^'L^s, which refined taste was a sure proof that ( )n th )le fare he Jie was no common iIol;'. l.'n this simple tare ne was raised until he learnt how to a[)prcciate roast veal, which latter meat is still his favourite food. His medals a!L;reed exceediiii^-ly well with him ; he ^ ^ ^"^ '"'W^^y. ^ ^ 0;^- /^ Photograite Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y 14580 (716) 872-4503 L O \ 74 Ten )'cars of my Life. mcdiuin. a lady \\\\v> made \\\(i spirits tip tal)lcs ami other hcaxy pieces of furniture for purpost-s I could not fathom. The ' writing' ' medium was a Mrs. I leath Adams. .She caused her friends amon_L,fst the spirits to induce others to answer questions in the same handwritinj^ they once wrote when livInL;- in the liod)- on this earth. This Mrs. lleath Adams made herself ([iiit<; notorious. .Slu; afterwards went to the Potomac arm)- and converted the sokliers to her Ix-lief. .She created amontj^st them such an excitement and con- fusion, that the; L,^cnerals could not tolerate it. and expelled her from the camj) as a danj^^erous fanatic, whose place would be better in a lunatic asjlum. One evenino-, Mrs. Speirs, three mediums, and many other ladies assembled for a spiritual enter- tainment in my lodj^inj,^ We were sitting; round a table in a lar^c; room, full of expectation. The gaslijL^hts were turned down, leaving- onl)- a dim lij^ht, which seems to ai^M'ce with s^jirits. The sjjirits were rather slow in cominy;, and the knocks, manifestinyf their presence, wc-re very faint and timitl. Miss .SuL^den explained that the tabk^was ' not yet chari^ed sufficiently,' and requested us to be patient. We were patient, and the excitement and fear of some of the ladies increased more and more every moment. At last the knockinj.^ be :ime louder, and the spirits made such a noise that I reall}' was afraid my table would be knocked to pieces. Now the medium 1 . / ' Kitockiii'j; ' Mcdiuui. 75 proposed to put mental questions to tlie spirits, on which th(;y would nnswe'" by knocks meanini; yes or no, which was done to general satisfaction. I'hou_L,di I could sec the ladies, and observe their movements, I could not help connectintj;- these knocks witli them, and askinj^' whether the powers of the spirits extended onl\- to the table ; the medium answc-red that I mit4ht wish, onlj- in m\' thouiL;hts, to hear lh(' knocking;' anywhere else. I dill so, and scared}' had I wished to hear it in a far- off corner of the room, when at tlie desired jjlace a tremenilous noise commenced. Still remaininLf sus[)icious, I wished to transfer the knocks to the ceiling", aiid had scarcely thought it, when the ceiling resounded with such knocks that I was afraid it ■v\'ould come down. That was too much for some of the; part}' ; they shrieked and became faint, and the gas hatl to be turned up again. When their minds had been calmed sufficiently by persuasion, the gas was turned off altogether, and we were sitting all in the dark. At once li-'hts llilted through the room, shining against the wall or ceiling, as if produced b}- a dark lantern. We felt as if something was blown into our faces, and even some small bodies like fine sand were thrown against them. In the lights, flickering abinit, we saw spectredike hands, and the excitement and fear became so great with some of the party that the gas had to be relit. 76 Ten Years of my Lijc. The mc'diunis tlcclarcd that their strength \vas exhausted, and the spiritual entertainment ended. Not\vithstandin<4- all I had seen, I reniaiiuxl a dis- believer; but dear I'elix, who was alraid of the impression the whole proceeding' woukl make on me, was quite excited and converted himself. Mrs. Speirs exulted, and was rather ani;ry that I was such a disbeliever. She reixretted nothin^• more than that she was no medium, and that the spirits would have nothini;^ to do with her. I seemed to be more Uu'oured ; the medium, at least, declaretl that I was a 'seeing- medium.' But notwithstandinLf their assurances, I could see nothing-, though I tried vcrj hard to please them, ami even invented visions for this purpose, which the)-, however, soon dis- covered accord in_L,d)-, and resented as bein^ only- fun. They said that the sj^irits were offended at disbelief, and unwilling to [jerform in the [jresence c' scoffers. We had several of such private spiritual enter- tainments, which amused me much. ThouLih I did not beli';vc in anything supernatural, I was i)uzzled as to how the things I had witnessed were pro- duced, for what I had seen and heard was indeed surprising and wonderful, and well calculated to turn weak or imaginative brains. .Sometimes things would not go on in the regular wa)-. The questions were answered all wrong, and the whole spiritual world seemed thrown into con- 1! '/■/////''■' Mcdiuiu. 1 1 vas vx\. dis- llu: mc. fusion. 'J'hc mediums nxTc not at a loss to explain this state of things. 'I'hcy ascribed it to the intlu- ence of the evil spirits who counteracted the doings of the fjood ones, and Ave were recpiested to assist t!)(^ latter in their strui^^j^de widi our maj^metic inllu- encc. We succeeded ; the evil spirits wen; dri\-en from the places the)- had usurped, and things went on in the ref^ular spiritual manner. It was most curious to ol)serv(; the writin^;' medium, Mrs. Heath Adams. When communica- tinfj; with the spirits she was almost in a fit; her h.ands moved convulsividy, and before one could fmd out how it was done answers to menial ques- tions were written in strange handwritin;^''s on the paper, often siij^ned with the name of the dead person addressed. As everybody was more or less excited al)out these si)iritual manifestations, Mrs. HcMinett was no exception, and became curious to witness some of them. .She therefore invited a noted professor of spiritualism, whose name I have fori^^otten, to per- form before a compan\' in her house. We were sittiu!^ in her front parlour, the foldinj^ door of the back parlour being closed. The spirits were not slow in obeying th(* summons of the professor. We saw aL'ain the li<'hts and also the mysterious hands. On being requested to form some mental wish to be executed by the spirits — the lights being turned down and shining dimly — Mrs. I3ennctt 78 Ten Years of Diy Life. \\ ishctl U) ]ia\(; a \vx\ lar ''C! imisic-lK)() ^\ hid 1 M-as near the piano in the back paiiour, under a whole pile of otlier books. She had scarcely fornuid that wish when the hea\y Ijook fell with a .i^real noise rii;"ht beforo her on the table around which w(.' were sittinj;-. Mrs. Bennett w'us so frightened that she fainted. .She afterwanls would not havo anjthinL;; to (.lo with spirits, and never assisted at one of our entertainuK-nts. Mrs. .Sjjeirs, however, became more and more believing';, ami more and more anxious to convince me. I'Or this purpose slie proposed a privi.f^ meeting- at her house, at which only herself. Miss Anna .Su<.jden, and myself should be prestMit. I accepted, and we were sittinj;" one e\eniny near a very substantial black walnut table with h('a\}- le^s, the gas nearly turned off. The spirits ohejed Miss Sugden, and awaited her orders. She requested me to wish for something more; diftlcult to perform than usual. I complied, and having noticed the solidity of the table at which we were sitting, I wished that the spirits would break that table, that is l^reak one of its heavy legs. Miss Anna Sugden consulted with her familiar spirit, whose name she said was .Se-th, and on being asked whether lie could do what I wished, he answered that it was difficult, but that he would try. \'er)' soon we heard a sound like one produced by distant rapid sawing, intermixed with the muflled . I ' Tipping' Medium. 79 knocks of a hammer. This strange noise Uisted for nearly half an hour, when suddenly the table lost its balance and ftdl against ni)- 1cl;s. On examinini;- it at tlu; lij^ht I found that one (jf its le_ns had been sawn olf. The cut was cjuite smooth, as if pro- duced by a shar[) knife or an extrcmel)- fine saw ; but all my most careful search for any sawdust was in vain. Mrs. Speirs was triumphant, and r[uite an, I'y with me that I still did not believe. I tell the facts as I saw them. They are indeed stranLje, and I cannot explain them, but these knockini^ and noisy and sawing spirits are too absurd. When I soon afterwards went to Washington, Miss Sugden gave me a letter of in- troduction to a celebratetl ti[)ping medium, and once when .Salm visited me there we invitetl that lad)- to entertain the company with her spiritual l)erformance. The lady sal down to plaj' at a ver}' heav}' i)iano. which, after souk; time, commenced moving, two of its feet being lifted some inches from the grounil. Wc: were astonishetl, but the gentle- men present laughed, and .Salm said that lie was also a tipping medium, and could perform the same feat without the spirits. He sat down, and after ha\ing run o\er the keys the piano movetl in the same nuuiner as l)(>fore. Me had simpl)' pressed his knees under it, and lifted it on one side an inch or two. The detected medium received her five dollars,, and retired somewhat confusetl. So 'J\n )\-(irs of my I.i/t /•. The affairs of Salin did not proL^n^ss meanwhile. The disiiichnatioii of the; people to military service became more and more decided. The drafted men were employed in fillinL,^ up old regiments, liut to form new ones hy voluntary enlistint^ was impossil)l(\ notwilhstandin;^' the liberal Ix/unties which w(;re offeretl. Poor Salm was in despair, for he could not briuL;' tiv^ether the required seven hun- dred men, and had onK- heavy expenses. I felt extremel}- sorry at his troubles, and puzzled my brain to fmd a way out of that inaz(;. Havincf assisted him once, I thouj^dit it possible to do so attain. I consulte>f fine ladies is often more embarrassimj than com- f irting to the wounded soldiers, who mostly belong- to the lower classes of societ)', however mucli they may appreciate the gentle wa)s and the soft liands of female nurses. In an (^laboratel)' and fashionably tlressed lady a wounded soldier will rarel)- have con- 8S Ten Years of my Life. Iklence ; the appearance of such a nurse n-'akes liim always uncomfortable. This feelin_i^r was much les- sened by a rule in force in America. All female nurses in hosi)itals, paid or voluntary, servant girls or ladies, had to Avear the same simple dress, re- sembling very much that of the Sisters of Charity. This was very important. The soldiers saw in them only female nurses, whose duty it was to provide for their wants, and not ladies above them in station who condescended to interest themselves in their behalf. The two great societies which did most in sup- porting the sick and wounded soldiers were the ' Sanitar)' Commission ' and the ' Christian Commis- sion,' whose activit)' extended over the whole vast theatre of war, and whose efficacy can never be praised sufticientl}-. At every station and military port were to be found agents and depots of these two benevolent associations, each of which had many millions of dollars at their disposal. No railway train, no transport steamer was to be found, on which were not to be seen immense piles of boxes, ad- dressed ' rVederick Law^ Olmstedt,' or ' Christian Commission.' Mr. Olmstedt stood for a long timti at the head of the Sanitary Commission, and he had the merit of setting the immense machine going. Me was still a young man, but his exertion in be- half of humanity exhausted his strength, anil when lie retired he had grown old in these few jears. Sanitary and Christian Commissions. 89 He added this frcsli merit to that by wliich he dis- tinj^niished himself in New York, for that cit)- is mostly imlebted to him for its world-renowned Cen- tral Park. These commissions provided the soldiers, espe- ciall}- the sick and wounded, not only with medicines and what was required for their necessities or com- fort, but even with superlluities and luxuries. It is trut: the)' had immense means, and could afford to be liberal. They always t^ave with pleasure and with full hands, and wherever there was want it was not their fault, but that of those persons who were too lazy or indifferent to ask. \'c;r\' t)ften, when the provisions of the (io\-ernment failed by some acci- dent, these commissions ci)ened their stores for the needy hc;althy soldiers, and when we were in Ala- bama, cut off by the eneni)- frc^m all communications, we were literally supported 1)\' them. We had fine potted victuals of (.'\ery kind cominij^ from thousands of miles. I still remember our astonishment on opening in Alabama a tin bo.x containing the most delicious asparagus, preserved in Brunswick, in Ger- many. The agents of these commissions did not wear fine uniforms, nor live in sumptuous quarters, nor drink claret and champagne ; they did not inspect the hospitals with glass in eye, and perfumed hand- kerchief to nose ; though mostly gentlemen used to all the luxuries of life, they had no other thought but 90 Ten Years of my Life. how l)cst to fulfil their voluntary duty, and ()ft(,'n I saw thcni ^vith tlicir own hands, accustomed to the llnost kid-c'Jov(!s, carr^•in''■ boxes and hales like com- mon workmen. The)- did not do so in hope of [)ro- motion or gain, or of a decoration ; their names were scarcel}' known, and if known soon forgotton ; Itut seeing all this, I learnt to love and resp(;ct the Ame- ricans. In mentioning this I will not infc;r that we had no good and self-sacrificing men to assist us in our dut)- in the T'rench war, and I shall do justice to them at thcMr propcn- place, but not forget those gorgeous drones who were sti'matised 1)\' the nickname of Battle Loafers. The American peo[)le w^wi never satisfied of having done enough, and all possible means were employed in collecting mone\'. Great sanitar}' fairs were held in all great cities ; merchants and manu- facturers sent in their gifts, some ladi(,'S their work, and other ladies attend(;d to the sale of these articles, Avhich were paid for extravagantly, and for wc;eks these fairs were crowded to excess by visitors. One fai* in New York, lasting for about five; weeks, brought about five millions of dollars, and com- parativeh' small W^ashington contributed one million and a half. The Government, in justice? to this spirit, showed themselves not less liberal and careful. Though bound 1)\ duty to save as mi'.ch money as Conveyances for the Wounded. 91 ^vas i)os.si1)lc, .it was never done at the cx[)cnsc of tlic soldiers, and es[)ccially not at that of tliosc wlio liad ])econie sick or crip[)led in the scrvMce of the countr}-. There were no students or other youn_!^ ir.en forniinij: vohmtarx' comi)anies to assist on the 1)attle-rield, as we liad tlieni in I'rance, for, as I said before, )ounf^ men were rare ; but notwithstanding this, the v.-ounded on the; battle-fields were more [)romptly attended and far b(;tter cared for than was the case in the I-'rench war. 1-^ach battalion — about equal to a Prussian com[)any — had a number of ])ortable bedsteads or stretchers, and two conve- niently and practicall}' built ambulances ; and when- ever a i)attle was imminent hundreds of these vehicles were brought together ready for use. 1 he wounded were not thrown into rough peasant cars, and jolted to death before the)- reached the next hospitid. Those that were in a state to be trans- ported at all were laid in a coveretl ani])ulance, which resteil on soft springs, was provided with, a good mattre;..;, a cask of water, and one of wine, and everjthing else ^\hich might be rc([uired. 'I'hose that had to be operated on were placed in large hospital tents, each of which IkuI room for twelve or more persons. These tents were built Jipon the battle-field, itself, or, circumstances not permitting, as near as possible. They were airy and most convenient, and their use has l^cen adoi)ted in many Euro[)ean armies. Thej' are preferable^ to 92 Ten Years of my J^ifc. any other arrans^cment which possibly could be made for severely wounded men, and especially to those low, narrow, and most abominable houses to be found in small German or French villages. The luxury of cleanliness seems to be utterly unknown there, and the smell of dozens of years together^ with a stratum of filth, covers the walls and ceilings, for whitewashing ' is never thought of Country people who live much in the air prefer the close atmosphere of a musty room as a holiday recreation, and even in the fmest weather one may see them, on Sunda}' afternoon, sitting close together in some country inn room enveloped in a cloud of bad tobacco-smoke. To sit warm in winter seems to be their only desire. The windows are generally as small as possil)le, and they scarcely think of ever opening them to let in air. The wounded, placed often on mouldy straw on tiie filthy or partly-rotten llooring, are as badly off as possible. In America, where there arc not so many villages as in Europe, necessity compelled the sanitary authorities to provide for them otherwise, and t!iis was done extremely well in si)acious tents, which gave shelter against the rain and permitted the perfect airing so necessary to people wounded or ill with txjjhoid fever. i'hough placed now and then on straw or corn husks on the ground, they generally la)' on the portable bedsteads, called Floating Hospitals. VJ stretchers. In the I'reiich Avar we often ret,^retted tlie absence of such tents. The many naviL;al)le rivers in America were also a i^reat convenience, and of the greatest im- ])ortance in the war. There arc ver)- few rivers in Germany or France which would carr}- such lar^(^ transport steamers as I saw in America, even on streams of which the names are scarcely known in Europe. These rivers were hi_L;hly important for the transportation of troops and provisions, and they were so for sanitary purj)oses. Large steamers, such as run on the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio, Hudson, or on the Northern Lakes, were arranged as lloating hospitals, offering all the conveniences of a great hotel. It is difiicult to give Germans an idea of such ships, for thousands of them have nexer seen the sea, and think a Rhine steamer a most wonderful concern. What would they sa)' to ships ^our or five hundred feet long, on which stand two- storied buildings reaching nearl)- from one end to the other, surrounded with verandahs and balconies, containing hundreds of small bedrooms, and halls in which three or four hundred people can sit verj- comfortably to dinner ? Where the shipi^ing on such rivers is interrupted by rapids or rocks the l)ractical Americans have built canals alongside of them, as is the case for instance with the Upper Potomac and the Susquehannah, and many other rivers. 94 Ten Years of my Life. What revolted nic fre(|uently in the l-'rcnch war was the manner in which the (U.'ad \vcre treatetl on tlie battle-fiekls. To a i)hilosophical niind it may seem ver)' indilTerent what is done with tlie cast-off coat of our soul ; it is, I think, without doubt indifferent to the dead, but the sur- viviny; are not all philosophers, and have a reve- rence for their dead, and not the form of their soul, but that of their body remains in their memorj'. It is true that the nations whose state of civili- sation is still on a very low step make the most of their dead, but civilised as the Germans may be, I do not think that it is indifferent to the mothers amonj^^st them whether the bodies of their beloved children are treated as uncenMiioniously as cattle. Even if it speaks unfavourably for the civilisation of the Americans, I prefer the manner in which they treat their soldiers, who shed their blood for their country. It is true that in the American war it occurred not rarely that the wounded had to be left behind, that they perished miserabl)-, that the dead could, not be buried at all or onl\- in haste, so that the bodies were dug out by pigs, as I have seen happen here and there ; but such cases are not to be avoided, and are exceptions ; wherever there was a pos- sibilit) , the dead were tre;iled with respect and love. After a battle the dead were collected and their Einbalniiui: llslablis/uncnts. 95 names ickMitificcl by their comrades, or from letters, ivc, found upon tliem. They did not wear badges witli a number round their neck Hkc the Prussian soUhers, which is indeed a good means to recognise even miicli mutilated dead, but which was intended onl)' to keep the militar)- lists correct. The American soldiers were not thrown indiscriminately into one '_!,nnnon pit ; they were buried one beside the other, and a stick with a board was fixed at the head end, on which was written the name. State, and regiment of the soldier. These tablets were respected by everybod}-, and I have seen them a jear and longer after a battle. They made it easy for the parents to find the bodies of their beloved, and give them at home a decent grave. Oh, how man}- fathers have I met on such an errand ! Only the love of the Americans for their departed made such institutions possible as were established in the neighbourhood of great camps. Whoever thought in l' ' German ami)- of an embalming establishment ? Thej' were, however, not exceptional in America, and nobody seemed surprisetl on seeing near a iirge tent a signboard with the firm ' Messrs. P)rown and Alexander, Embalmers to the Govern- ment.' The business they did was verj- extensive, the)" embalmed thousands — privates for thirty dollars, and officers for eighty. The embalmed bodies were l)laced in long boxes lined with zinc, on the lid of which was written the full name of the dead, and the 96 l\n Years of my Life. address of his parents. In the box, at the side of the dead, were [)laced tlie [)apers and other thinj^'s found upon him or known to helonj^ to him. Many of these l)i).\es were to be seen on all trains or transport ships. lUit not onl)- private piety was at work. Those who had no rich parents to pa)' for embalmin','', or relatives who cared to hav(j the body home, were not forgotten either. The noble Governnu;nt of that nol)le nation paid the last debt of respect to their dead. I tliink the idea came directly from ^ood President Lincoln, a man than whom none better could be found in the w^orld. The dead were carefully collc'cted from all battle-fiekls. and carried often Ioul^ distances to public gravej-ards, established in different parts of the country. These gra\-cyards are large beautiful gardens, kept up most carefully at the ex- pense of the Government. They are surrounded Avith wvills, provided with gates and good buildings for die sui)erintendent and gardeners, and with a fmely- decorated memorial hall. The graves of the soldiers are placed in rows, and at the head of each stands a gravestone, on which is inscribed each man's name, State, regiment, and company, together with the place where the brave soldier died for his country, and underneath is written always an appropriate sentence or verse of the Bible. Of such graveyards several are to Ije seen near Washington, and on the confiscated estate of the rebel General Lee, Arlington Soldiers Home. 97 llfMt^lit, which has Ijc'jh allotted for this i)urposc, rest nearly one hundred thousand dead soldiers! Thus America knows her citizens who died for the Union. Hospitals were, of course, near all cities, and the most extensive were in the neisj^hbourhood of Wash- in^rton. The public hospitals in Washington were not sufficient, and between that city and the Presi- dent's summer residence, called 'Soldiers' Home,' was to be seen a whole city of neat barracks, which ht be concealed, meditating our destruction. The train stopped frequently without cause, and what we saw from the windows was not calculated to calm our apprehensions. Everywhere \\\) the road-side were half-destroyed cars or locomotives lying on their backs, or burnt-down houses. We became, hovv'ever, soon used to this state of affairs, and I manai^ed to sleep. I was roused by Mrs. Corvin with the distress- ing news that my Jimmy had jumped off the train. That was a calamity worse than the rebels. Our carriage was the last, and from its platform I saw y'unviy a Dcxeytcr. 1 1 r alonc,^ the road and at a great distance a dark point moving ; it was poor Jimni}-, striving in vain to come ii}) Avitli the train. Tiic ring to which the cord is attaclied, running a])ove all the cars to the loco- motive, hung temptingly right over my head, and knowing the use of the cord I pulled at it lustily. The train stopped, and the captain who was in command ran anxiously to ask what accident had liappened. On hearing it he was inclined to be angry, but seeing my distress, and probably being a lover of dogs himself, he relaxed ; the train stopped until my pet arrived panting from such an unusual exertion, and amid the good-natured laughter of the soldiers the dear deserter was restored to me. We arrived at last at Bridgeport station, which was about a mile and a half from vSalm's camp. The soldiers of the port, on hearing my name, procured at once an ambulance, and at the same time a breakfast, which we needed very much. We arrived soon in the cami), and I was happy to be again with my dear husband. The regiment was encamped on an island in the noble Tennessee river. The railroad P'oini^ to Chattanooga crosses this island by means of two bridges. That next to Bridgeport is a remarkable structure. The banks on both sides are hisrli and connected with beams on Avhich run the rails, and about thirty feet below is the rather longjjridgc for horse cars. tI3 Ten Years of my Life. The island was not lar^c, but contained two or three farms, and was mostly covered with beautiful trees, enlivened by a great variety of pretty birds. The ground being rather flat, the island was not rarely overflown by the river, and large tracts of the wood were always under water. In rainy \\eit'er it was by no means pleasant, but when the sun was shining a more delightful place could scarcely be found anywhere. Right opposite the camp, on the southern bank of the river, some distance off, rose a rather high wooded ridge, the slopes of which were always haunted by rebels, who thence could look right into our camp. This camp Avas extended on a meadow not far from the northern bank of the river, and was skirted by the wood. It was not laid out with much regularity, on account of the condition of the ground, and looked (juite romantic. As it was expected that we would remain there a good while, the soldiers had maiU-' themselves as comfortable as possible. There wj.s plenty of wood and a saw-mill in Bridge- port ; boards were therefore not wanting, and many shanties rose amongst the tents, serving either as bureaus or as quarters for officers. At a beautiful place from which the camp could be overlooked, Salm had built quite a stately building. It was about thirty feet long, stood somewhat above the ground on poles, like a sanitary barrack, had in front a verandah, and contained three compartments. ae cl( A Visit to a Hospital I I The larcjcst was our saloon, and to its ri,i;]it and left were two smaller apartments, one servinj^ as a bed- room for me and Salm, and the other for Madame von Corvin. The saloon had in front a glass door and two windows, and contained also a fireplace of rather i)rimitive construction, for when it rained hard the fire was frequently extinguished by it. The building had scarcely been finished when wc arrived, and the weather having been very bad during its construction, it was still extremely damp. Behind our palace was built a kitchen, and near to it was put \\\} a large tent, which served as an officers' mess-room. Farther back amongst the trees were some buildings for the commissariat, and a barrack serving as a hospital. To visit this hospital was one of the first things I did. I found it in a very miserable state, for the doctor whom my husband found on his recent arrival with his regiment, was a rather careless man, and thought more of his own comfort and profit than of that of his patients. The steward and nurses were not better, and it was found that they frequently appropriated the good things furnished for the sick. These were, of course, not wanting in a locality such as described, most of them suffering from ague or malignant fevers. I was indignant at this state of affairs, and at once took care to remedy it. The next thing to be done was to procure warm clothes, blankets, me milk. There lived in the neighbourhood a few farmer- families, who submitted to circumstances, and enter- tained a more friendly intercour':c with our officers. W'e sometimes paid them visits, which were not without danger, and had to be made always in company and under arms. Guerillas were lurking about in the woods, and it happened not rarely that single soldiers were caught or even killed by them. Orders had been given to act with great severitv against such houses as were reputed to serve reb ! . as a shelter, though it was only natural that t, : iruerillas now and then ventured to visit their families. Salm had to burn down several rebel houses, though he did so with great reluctance. The inhabitants of these houses were, however, rarely to be found at home ; they had their spies, and were generally warned i)eforehand. In one of such doomed iiouscs was found only a rather fat i.h -ter, which was taken prisoner and appropriated by i m, who christened him Gcrber, which was the name of his rebel master. Fo7d Prince Salm, 117 Our position -was much exposed and full of dansjci'. The island and the bridc^es were well guarded, but there existed fords which were better known to the rebels than to us, and if there had been an able leader amongst them they might have surprised us without much difficulty, as they from their mountains could observe everything we did on the island. Before assistance could have arrived even from Bridgeport they might have killed us all, and a few tiiousand men might even have taken that place, notwithstanding its fort, before succours could come up from Stevenson, about ten miles off, where a great number of troops were assembled. The pontoon bridt;e laid over the Tennessee for army purposes was guarded by a picket, and protected by two good blockhouses provided with guns ; and on the southern side of the river, on a commanding eminence, was built a fort called Fort Prince Salm. Though it wa^^ considered to be rather strong, it was overtopped by neighbouring hills very favourably situated for rebel batteries. Under these circumstances, it was not to be wondered at that frequently reports about intended attacks were circulated in the camp, and that arrange- ments were made in case of a surprise. We were to fly at once to the blockhouse, commanded by Captain von der Groebcn, which was about a gun- shot from our quarters. These alarming reports ii8 Ten Years of my Life. were sometimes so positive that they somewhat interfered with our sleep. Bridgeport, situated on the high northern bank ''>f the Tennessee, consisted originally of only a few ouses and a saw-mill standing near the river ; but m war time it had become much enlarged by a spa- cious field hospital and many other military wooden buildings, mostly serving as magazines for the pro- visions and as dwellings for the officers connected with the commissariat. In a house on the highest point the commander of the post. Colonel Taylor, commanding a Kentucky regiment, had established his head-quarters. The only family unconnected with the troops living at Bridgeport, was that of a clergyman of the name of Gilford. Their dwelling-house stood on the top of the before-mentioned ridge, but being there right in the midst of the rebels, and not feeling safe amongst them on account of his Union ten- dencies, he had left there and was living now in a wooden house, which he had made rather comfort- able with the furniture carried over from his dwelling on the hill. His wife and grown-up daughters were very agreeal)le persons, and we passed with them many pleasant evenings. They were, however, not the only ladies in Bridgeport, for a Captain Arm- strong, of the commissariat, luid his wife with him, and two other ladies were attached to the Christian Commission, Excursions in the Woods. 119 ;what Though Bridgeport was not far from jur camp, a visit, and especially our return home, Avas not without danger. Roads scarcely existed, for what might have been called so had been changed by the heavy rains into an imfathomable quagmire. We had therefore to drive always over firmer ground ; but notwithstanding its being made dangerous by the many stumps of trees projecting, we had never an accident, though our heads were frequently knocked against each other. The most dangerous part of the road was, however, the descent to the bridge, and I still wonder that we never rolled down into the river. We had frequent visits also, attempted even to give dinners, and in the evening we had generally company. We played a rubber of whist, and Groeben brewed a very acceptable eggnog or punch, for the wine furnished by our sutler, though charged three dollars a bottle and provided with flourishing labels, was a miserable compound. The weather had become extremely fme, and we made many parties on horseback and in carriages. The rebels kept quiet, and none of our apprehensions were fulfilled. Now in fine weather the sojourn on the island Avas highly agreeable. We were nearly all day in the fresh air and walking in the woods, which were made lively by a great variety of birds with brilliant plumage. There were some small scarlet birds, I20 Ten Years of my Life. which looked in the sun hke a ball of fire ; others were beautifully blue and very tame. I noticed also several fine varieties of woodpeckers, one with a brilliant yellow tail tipped with black, and another light grey Avith a crimson head. There were also partridges on the island and wild pigeons, affording good sport and an occasional addition to our bill of fare. The meadow in front of our camp swarmed with a kind of plover, called, from its cry, a killedie, which cost my husband a good deal of shot — rather an object, as he had to pay for it at the rate of a dollar a pound. We received now and then visits from the generals stationed at Stevenson or Chattanooga. On Sunday, October 23, Major-General Steedman dined with us, and invited us to come and see him in Chattanooga. Our party, consisting of Mrs. Corvin, Salm, Groeben, and myself, started on the Thursday following for this excursion. The accommodation in the train was very imperfect. We sat in a transport waggon, the ladies on bottomless chairs and the gentlemen on some boxes. The road to Chatta- nooga is very romantic, leading through a fine but rather wild-looking mountainous country, and over bridges which make me still shudder in thinking of them. The rebels had destroyed th(i good and solid ones, and they had provisionally been re- placed by others, built in the greatest haste by the soldiers. General Sieednian. 121 There was especially one, known under the name of the I\Iatch-brid<^e, wliich surpassed anything I ever saw or heard of. It crossed a deep and wide gorge, and was built of wood — trellis-work — several hundred feet high, in three stories. When the train passed over it the whole Himsy fabric swayed in the most alarming manner. There were to be seen here and there small houses in the midst of a patch of cultivated land. The fields were all fallow for want of hands, many of the poor houses empty, and only in some of tl\em lived some wretched-looking aged men or women, who scarcely sustained life, having been cut off from the rest of the world for many long months. The trains were only used for military purposes, and where passengers were admitted they had to secure passports, Avhich were not easily to be had. We required some hours to reach Chattanooga, where wc arrived at eight o'clock in the evening, and where we were received by General Steedman, with whom we remained together in the hotel until clear. General Steedman had been born in Canada. He was a man of about fifty )ears, tall, with an agreeable, open, bold-looking face. He had become an orphan when still very young, and gone as such through a great deal of hardship, which made him feel very kind whenever he met children in a similar 122 Ten Years of my Life. position. He was in general a kind and soft-hearted man, who liked to hide his weakness under an assumed roughness, in which, however, he was not very successful. When still a youth he had taken part in some revolutionary movement in his country, which made him remove to the United States, wliere he studied law, became an influential politician, and was even elected a senator. When the war com- menced he made up a regiment, and was major- general before we in the East had heard anything of his military exploits. He was, however, a practical man, and had studied war with great advantage, and Avhenever he had an opportunity he behaved not only with great courage and energy, but also very judiciously from a military point of view. On Friday, 26th October, at nine o'clock, our party was ready for an excursion to Lookout Moun- tain. Madame von Corvin and old Groeben were in an ambulance, all the rest on horseback. We were waiting for General Steedman, when he sent a message, excusing himself on the ground of a bad cold and important business. General Sherman having telegraphed him orders to send off troops for the reinforcement of those stationed at Decatur. Colonel Moy, the general's first aide, went however wath us, acting as a guide. The weather was wonderful, and the sky without a cloud. We passed through jiart of the camp. Everywhere we saw destroyed houses, and round ' Fighting yoc! 12 them assembled herds of oxen and mules, which latter did such excellent service in that war. They followed the army in droves of several hundreds, i^uided by men on horseback, whose skill was re- markable. It was a pleasure to look at these mules, with their line deer-like limbs. They endure as much and more than horses, and are far more frugal, keeping in good condition with food which would disable their more pretentious half-brothers. Lookout INIountain is an enormous rock, rising like a citadel from the valley of the Lookout Creek, and from it one has a view over Chattanooga and all the wide surrounding country. It had been used as a signal station, and after the battle of Chica- mauga it was thought necessary to attack this for- midable position, which interfered with the connection of General Grant's advancing army. The honourable but difficult task of storming that rock fell on ' h'ight- ing Joe.' He attacked it on the 24th November, 1863, with ten thousand men, and though the rebels A\ere protected by breastworks, and assisted by a dense fog enveloping the high summit, the)' were driven down the eastern slopes. The fog preventing Hooker from followinti; them into the valle\-, he remained on the top of his stormed citadel, and the thunder of his guns proclaimed his glorious victory 'above the clouds,' as poetical reporters said. I must not speak of the succession of battles around 124 Ten Years of my Life. ChattaiiGui^a, which terminated the canipaii^n in that district in 1S63, lost tlic rebel General Brajj^j^ his place, and relieved General Burnside, who was in a rather awkward position in Knoxville. The slopes of the mountain ridge are covered with ti.nber, which on a fine day shone in all the bril- liancy of the American fall, most a.^reeably contrast- inu' with the soft blue of the far-distant landscape. After a c[uarter of an hour's ride we arrived at the foot of the steep mountain, two thousand six hundred feet hitrh. The soldiers had, with a oreat deal of labour, made a road leading- to the top. Many rocks had to be removed, trees to be felled, and the road to be carried in zigzag to the long-stretched top, ending with Lookout rock, whi^h falls off nearly perpendicularly. The platform on the highest part was wide enough for our small company, and we looked with delight on the beautiful landscape at our feet. During the French war I often regretted the absence of photographers, who generally arrived too late, W'hen the scenes had already much changed. In America they were alwa}'s on the spot, and we owe them many views taken immediately after a battle. Yankee industry is never asleep. There, on Lookout rock, we found of course also a photo- grapher, who photographed groups of visitors and sold views taken from the rock. I still have one Ilcspilah around Chattanooga. 121 representing that rock itself, witli General I looker sitting on it. After having feasted our eyes to our hearts' content, we selected a most beautiful spot, and lay down on the moss to enjoy the exquisite breakfast which General Steedman had sent .. \ to'jfether with a tjood supply of champagne, which made us all very merry. We returned to Chattanooga at seven o'clock r.M., and found a great company assembled in our hotel, but retired early. Though amusing myself as well as I could, I did not forget our sick people in the hospital, and next niorning Mrs. Corvin and myself paid a visit to the Sanitary Commission, from whom we received a great quantity of highh' acceptable things. Though the hospitals around Chattanooga, which were mostly on the healthier hill-side, required a good deal, the provisions of the Commission seemed to be inex- haustible, and they never grew tired of giving with full hands. Having attended to this duty, we paid General Steedman a farewell visit and took lunch wi:' him, after which we said good-bye to him and returned to the hotel, where several of the generals were pre- sented to us. They were all rather bus}', for we saw five thousand men passing our window on their way to the railroad; they were the reinforcements for 125 Ten Years of my Life. Decatur. We left Chattanoo_<(a at four o'clock r.>r., and arrived in Bridgeport without accident. Bad weather set in, and the ground around our house became very soft. We felt rather chilly, for the wet damped our clothes and l)eds, and warm punch in the evening was very acceptable. We had always a few guests, and the commander of the port, Colonel Taylor, came frequently, and we had a rubber. On Sunday we went to church in Bridge- port and heard rather prosy sermons, an n other dajs we had enough to do with our hoh which had already assumed quite a different aspect. Towards the end of November news was received of the injudicious move of the rebel General Hood, who wanted to attack Tennessee, and perhaps Ken- tucky and Ohio, in order to compel General Sherman to give up his dangerous plans. This most able general had, in September, conquered Atalanta (Georgia), and was preparing for his bold march across the heart of the enemy's country towards Savannah, South Carolina. Preparations were made to meet General Hood, and as it was very likely that he would try to take Bridgeport, we expected every moment to be attacked by his army. Believing, however, the position too strong, and fearing delay, he crossed the Tennessee at some other place and advanced against Nashville. General Steedman received therefore orders to join with his troops General Thomas in that city, and to Dc can be 7' Frost. 127 leave only a few troops to protect the princi[xil points between Stevenson and Chattanooga. Sahn was very rag'er to take part in the expected battles, and on his request General Steedman detailed him on his staff. The iL^eneral telegraphed that he would arrive in tlu' afternoon ; Salm made himself ready, and we waited for the arrival of the troops in Colonel Taylor's quarters, where \\v. whiled awaj' the time with eating and drinking Catawba champagne, for the trains kept us waiting until eleven o clock p.m. The general, who had eleven trains Avith him crammed with troops, was sitting with his staff in an empty l)a<:jrafjc wac^iron on trunks and boxes. We had exi)ected that his troops would make the road to Nashville free, and intended to depart for Washing- ton a few days later. We therefore were by no means agreeably surprised on hearing from the general that the train which he brought with him was the last running, and that we would have to wait in Bridgeport until General Hood was beaten. With the beginning of December frost set in,. Avhich impeded somev/hat the military operations, and delayed the decision until the middle of the month. The frost was of unusual severity for these latitudes, and though the weather was fine it was cold, ami we might even have skated on the ponds of the island if we had been able to procure skates. Din'ing this state of suspense, and whilst Hood was besieging General Thomas in the tolerably well- il T28 Till Years of my Life. fortified city of Nashville, we passed cur time as aj::^reeably as possible. We received now and then visits from the generals left in Chattanooga and Stevenson, and, amongst others, from the Generals Brannon and Granger, whom we entertained as well as we could, and whom Corvin and Groeben astonished by the wonderful punch which they brewed from commissariat whisky, with the help of lemon-peel, preserved pine-apples, Vanille essence, and sugar. General Granger in';ited us to interrupt the monotony of our life by visits to Stevenson, which were not without danger, and perhaps for that reason more tempting. Whenever .e wanted to make such an excursion, I telegraphed to my old friend General Meagher, comiuanding then in Chattanooga, to send me a locomotive, which he never failed to do, in spite of the grumbling of the officers in charge of the railroad department. He generally sent only a locomotive with a so-called ' caboose ' attached, and perhaps one transport waggon. Stevenson was only ten miles distant, but the road passed through the woods, which were always haunted by guerillas, who were more lively at that time than ever. We took therefore the precaution of taking with us ten or twelve soldiers, who were placed on the top of the waggon, and who, with their guns ready, watched the woods as we passed them. Such a iri[) was always exciting, for we could never be sure whether Ave would not meet with some wild runninir loc(3motive Glorious Ncius. 129 or get off the rails, for the road was in a fearful con- dition, and our train rattled along like a horse- waggon on a corduroy road. The movement became sometimes so violent that the iron cooking-pots in the caboose were thrown out of their holes in the stove. We had, however, no accident, and amused ourselves much in Stevenson, thanks to General Granger, who treated us with the fme music of his bands and most exquisite dinners, for the General was a bon-vivant. Stevenson itself is an insignificant place, stretching along a most dreary bare hill, but which looked then quite grand, on account of the great number of military wood buildings. From the army we heard only vague reports, but they were so contradictory, that we did not b';lieve in any. At last, on the i8th of December, news or- rivcd of great victories achieved by our army, which was said to have taken forty or fifty guns. Hood's army was reported as being in full retreat, and we expected them every moment to appear before Bridgeport. Two gunboats arri\'ed for the protec- tion of our island, and Colonels Taylor and Corvin were busy with strengthening Bridgeport as much as possible and in disposing of the few troops left in that place. The glorious news was confirmed ; General Thomas had beaten Hood, on the 15th and i6th, in two great battles near Nashville, and captured fifty- guns and about five thousand prisoners. At the vol.. I. . K I30 Ten Years of my Life. same time, the 68th Regnnent received orders to march to Stevenson, and to wait there for their colonel ard General Steedman. This order of course produced great excitement, for the regiment had been on the island about nine months, and everything the soldiers had arranged for their com- fort had to be left behind, but General Steedman promised to remove all necessary things to White- side, where the regiment was to be stationed after- wards. The detachments from Fort Prince Salm, White- side, and Shellmound had to be recalled, and it was rather late in the afternoon before all was ready. We prepared a farewell collation for our officers, and saw them off with regret, and not without api)rehen- s'.on, for in Bridgeport remained onl)- a very small force, and on our island, except the sick, not more than twenty men as a guard for the stores. The gunboats had disappeared also, and we were in- deed at the mercy of any .straggling rebel part)' that might take it into their heads t' pay us a visit. The empty camp offered a very cheerless aspect the day afterwards, and the more so on account of the rain which poured down in torrents. IMasterless clogs and cats prowled about the empty shanties, and we felt extremely miserable in our quarters. The rain extinguished the fire in the chimney, filling with smoke the house, in which wet clothes were hanging. Cordial Reception in Stevenson. 131 for I had cdered a great washing. The night was pitch dark, and tlie rain still streaming down. Her.i- ing some noise close to the house, I went out to listen on the verandah, when I saw the shadow-like figures of some men on horseback right before me. One of them asked with a deep voice whether that was a forsaken camp ? — a rather suspicious question, which did not fail to give us some alarm. Colonel Corvin put on his india-rubber coat, and dived, revolver in hand, into the darkness to reconnoitre. The horse- men were no rebels, as we feared, but belonged to the Union army, and were on the look-out for some shelter for their sick officer. They had esta- blished themselves in a shnnt\- belonging to our lieutenant-colonel. The rains ceased, and widi th( ir disappearance returned our cheerfulness. The weatlu r was indeed deliirhtful. When we received the news that General Steedman with fifteen trains would arrive on the 23rd in .Stevenson, and that he expected to find us all there, I was exceedingly glad and in the besi. of humours, for I was to see again my dear husband after a time full of danger. It was good that I received the news of the battles fought after tiie) were over, and together with that of Salm's safet)'. or I would have felt great anxiety. We were received in Stevenson most cordially. Steedman and .Salm looked more like robbers than like officers, for they had gone through a hard time, K 2 132 Ten Years of my Life. and had no leisure to think of their toilet. Their beards were more than a week old, and their uniforms covered with mud and torn to rags. Salni was beaming with happiness, not alone on account of our meetinfr. but because he at last had had fighting to his heart's content, and an opportu- nity of distinguishing himself. During the battles Steedman had given him a command, and could not find words enough to praise his bravery and good behaviour. He regretted that decorations were not distributed in America, for above all Salm would have deserved being distinguished by such a decora- tion. He said, however, that he would take care to place him in command of a brigade, and cause General Thomas to recommcntl him for promotion. We could not stay in Stevenson, and returned in the afternoon to Bridgeport, feeling extremely proud and happy. The weather remained beautiful for several days, and it was ,is warm as in si)ring. To celebrate Christmas and the victories, we dressed out our house and its verandah with holly, and the tame blue-birds came pecking the red berries. Corvln with some men went in the wood for mistletoe, which was found there in such luxuriance as I have not seen anywhere. The} brought home one bush that was at least four fe^t in diameter, and its berries were as large as white currants. We [massed a very merry Christmas Eve at Gilford's, in Bridgeport, who In Real Economy. no gave us a splendid supper. Corvin brewed several gallons of much appreciated whisky punch, and I am sure the house of the worthy clergyman had never before had a merrier night. There was a piano, and we had a good deal of singing and dancing, and games of every kind. On Christmas Day we arranged a similar festival in our quarters ; in short, we had a nice time, and were as happy as could be. The road being free now, Mrs. Corvin and her husband prepared to leave for Washington, and I resolved to accompany them as far as Nashville, or even to Washington, according to the news from Felix. On the 4th of Januar)-, 1865, General Brannon was to go by special train to Nashville, and offered to take us with him, an offer that was thankfully accepted. We arrived on the 5 th at the St. Cloud Hotel, where I found many old acquain- tances. Receiving a despatch from Groeben, informing me that my husband would arrive on January 7th, in Bridgeport, with his brigade, I decided on returning to that place next morning with a hospital train, and Colonel and IMadame Corvin left for Wash- ington. The Americans are an eminently practical and sensible people ; everything they do is to the pur- pose, and economy only a second-rate consideration. In other countries this is the principal object, and 134 Ten Years of viy Life. most institutions that are imperfect are so on account of stiuLjiness, Avhicli, after all, causes the greatest waste of money. The American hospital trains are perfection. There is everything which can possibly be desired by wounded men and the surgeons who treat them. They are spacious and airy, and pro- vided with all the comforts of a hospital. The wag- gons are of course connected in such a manner as to permit a free communication along the whole train. There are two kitchens, one for the cooking of food, the other for the requirements of nursing. Those who are severely wounded lie in beds standing on the floor of the waggon, and have no other beds above them. In other waggons two beds are placed, one above the other. They are arranged in such a manner that the wounded do not suffer from the movement, by the means of springs and elastic bands c jnnected with the beds. Should another war ever occur in Europe, the sanitary authorities would do well to study and imitate the American pattern, and use such hospital trains more frequently than has been done in the French war. In this latter war it was distressing to see the manner in which poor wounded soldiers were often transported in common railway trains, lying in filthy cattle-waggons, even without straw, on the floor, feeling every shock, and remaining sometimes five or six hours at some sta- tion without even a drink of water. On my arrival in Bridgeport I was much disap- Tennessee River 135 pointed, tor Salin had not arrived yet, an^' w.is still some sixty miles from that place. An order from General Steedman was waiting there, appointing him commander of that post. At last Felix arrived, on the loth of January, and after a great deal of trouble ever}'thing was arranged well. The Prince formed his staff, and made Groeben provost-marshal, and Captain Eckert inspector of the post. I at once visited the hospital, which I found in a very neg- lected state, on account of the frequent changes that had taken place during the last month. I got things right as well as Icould, but had to go to Chattanooga to procure many commodities I thought necessary for the wounded, Salm went with me, and General Steedman very readily granted everything I wanted, especially some hospital tents. Salm had to leave without me, for I had not finished yet ; and when 1 was ready I had so many things that I could not find a place for all of them in the hospital train, with which I returned. Dr. Woodworth was in charge of the train, and had with him his exceedingly pretty wife. We did not return to our shanty on the island, but removed to the quarters of the post-commander, which were situated on the highest place in Bridge- port. rVom this spot we had a beautiful view up and down the great Tennessee river, with its pictu- resque mountains, the lovely island, and the rail- road. Two gunboats were stationed near the 136 Ten Years of my Life. bridge ; they were at the disposition of my hus- band, who had there besides five regiments under his command. The people of Tennessee had hoped much from Hood, and were greatly disappointed by his defeat. They became desperate, and guerilla bands com- mitted many depredations in the country and cruel- ties upon Union people. Salm, therefore, was very anxious to check them. For this purpose he under- took several expeditions, which he always commanded himself, though he often took with him only one compau)'. These raids were usually without result, for the rebels had their spies everywhere, and I failed not to tease Salm ; but on the 29th, at last, an expedition had a grand result : he captured two rebel hats . id frightened nine rebel women out of their wits. He did not mind my teasing, and was indefatigable. Towards the end of January he started for another expedition down the river on the transport ship ' Bridgeport,' and taking with him the gunboat ' Burnside.' He landed his troops about forty-five miles from Bridgeport, and on a very dark night he surprised a rebel camp. In the ensuing fight thirteen rebels were killed, fourteen taken prisoners, and a number of arms and horses fell into the hands of our troops, who lost only one officer of a coloured regiment. Life in Bridgeport. ^Z7 On the 13th of February, Salm returned from another successful raid, which he made wiih about three hundred men. He surpn -d, on the loth, the noted s^uerllla chief Witherspoon in his camp, captured many arms and some fine horses, amongst which was tlie celebrated charfrcr of the rebel chief, whose brother, together with fifteen rebels, were taken prisoners. A good number of the rebels were killed and wounded, whilst our troops had no casualties. This success made a great noise, and General Steed- man was so much satisfied that he once more and very urgently recommended Salm for promotion. Whilst Salm was thus attending to his military duties, always commanding these raids in person, I had much to do with arranging our quarters and improving the hospital. I had to go several times to Chattanooga, for the people there had sent me rotten tents, and I had to exchange them for new ones, and to fetch other commodities for my sick. Life in Bridgeport was then quite pleasant, for our company had had many agreeable additions. Several officers' wives had arrived, and the captains of the gunboats ' Stone River ' and ' Burnside ' were also married, and very nice people. In the middle of February ni)- brother-in-law, Captain Johnson, arrived with my sister and her son rVanky, for the captain had been attached to 138 Ten Years of my Life. my husband's brigade. The proposed promotion of several officers and that of Salm did not pro- gress. There was somewhere a hitch, and some hostile influences supposed to be at work in Wash- ington. After due reflection it was thought best that I, escorted by old Groeben, should go to Washington and look after the interests of Felix and his brirade. To Europeans, especially to Germans, this med- dling of ladies, especially with military affairs, will appear rather strange, but every country has its peculiarities, and it is one of the peculiarities of America that ladies have there a far different position from that they hold in Europe. More things go through their hands than outsiders dream of, and officials in different bureaus are not in the least surprised if ladies attend to the business of their husbands. Though the promotion of Salm depended in the first place on Stanton, as he had to propose him, he had to be confirmed as a general by the Senate, and moreover Stanton, independently as he generally acted, could not disregard the suggestions of inlluential governors or senators, whose assistance he again required for other purposes. As I had friends amongst the governors and senators, I hoped they would exert their influence in my husband's interest, especially as they could do so Avith a good start for WasJiiugton. 139 conscience, liis claims being strongly supported b>- his behaviour and the recommendation from his chiefs. General Steedman approved of my plan, and I therefore started on I'cbruary 24th for Washing- ton, carrying with me the good wishes and hopes of the brigade. / 140 CHAPTER VII. On board the 'Oonenil I.yttlc' -In Washington— Up-hill work^ Senator Vatcs— do with Cirocbcn to New York— (Ion ernor Kenton — (■|()\rrnor Ciihriore of New Hampshire — Kctm^n to Wash- in<^ton — Victory — Receive tlic (General's toniinission for Sahn-^ Living at Cor\in's in (;cor;;etown — Short sketch of war events — Characteristic of (Jeneral (irant — The assassination of I.incohi — Attempt against Secretary Seward — Impression made by that catastr()i)he — The Kuncral — Andrew Johnson, the new I'residcii. - Mr. Field, Assistant-Secretary of the Treasury — Returning to the war — Felix in Dalton, (Jeorgia -Arrival in Chattanooga — No trains — det a locomotive Riding on the cov.-catchcr — A journey from Dalton to Cleveland A fearful night in the Asoods— Dangers of railway travelling — A nairow escape — I get a baby of my sif- ter's — Starting for Atlanta, (".eorgia — State of the country — Our life in Atlanta — Leaving for Savannah — I'brt Pulaski — An excur- sion to Augusta — Dangers of the Savannah rivers -Our steamer, the 'Fanny Lehr,' running on a snag — Sticking in the mud — The alligators — Assistance arriving — Continue our journey— Coming up •with the ' KoJK'rt Lehr,' which strikes a snag and goes down — Rc- turning to Savannah— I-nd of the war — Cioing t'/ij Baltimore to Washington — Living in Ccorgctown at Corvin's — Forming new plans — Salm resolves to go to Mexico — (Irocbcn is to go with him —I remain in Washington — Take a house in that city together with the Corvins — (Dur life — Excursions— Colonel Moore— Leaving for Mexico — Cood-bye to President Johnson — On board the ' Man- hattan ' — Father Fisher — Arrival in Ilavannah— Surprise — Meeting Salm — Arrival in Vera Cruz. Mv husband accompanied me as far as Nash- ville, where we met General Steedman and Colonel von Schrader, with his wife. As I had to attend to some business connected with my hospital, I stayed - Irrival at Cnnbcrland. 141 over Sunday in Nashville, and went widi General . Sleedman to the Sanitary Commission, from whom I j^ot all I wanted. On Tiicsda)', l''ebruary 2Sth, I started for Louisville, where I had to stay two days, feeliuL,^ not well at all. T had the pleasure of seeins^ Colonel Taylor, the former post-commander of Bridi^^eport, whose rci^iment had jji^one home. Still ill, I embarked in the steamer ' General Lyttle ' foi* Cincinnati. She was a very lar<^e, splen- did ship, which some time afterwards was destroyed by fire. The saloon in this ship was exceedingly large. One part of it, separated from the rest by a moveable, heav)- curtain, was allotted to the ladies, and provided with a fmc piano and all the comforts of a drawing-room ; at the other end was a similar room for the iz;entlemen, who sat smokins/ round the stove. The large space between was used as a dining-hall, and several hundred persons could sit at dinner in it. The ship arrived too late for the morning train, and I had to stop in Cincinnati until ten o'clock ^.^^. I was still ill all night and next day, and the journey Avas a great trial. At one station a bridire had been washed awa)', and all passengers had to walk more than two miles in the rain, ankle-deep in the mud, and loaded with all their hand-bant stores, providing the Southern i=;S Ten Years of my Life. army with all requirements, Sherman wanted to finish the war, and calculated that this mi(yht be done b(;st b}- unstringino" or cutting- the sinews of war. After having destroyed all the factories along the Chatta- hooche river and its neighl)ourhood, he decidetl on taking Atlanta, which he therefore besieged. The town was only fortified with field-works, Init to storm them would cost too many men, and Sherman thought it more secure to compel the Richmond of the west to surrender by starvation. He succeeded, and the Confederate army defending it had to leave the town to its fate. This fate was very hartl, for Sherman acted only on mere militar)' principles, which alwa)s are directly opposed to humanity. He wanted the place for military purposes, and insisted that all its in- ha])iiants should leave it, going either South or being- con veyMi^i\ ,iiul ] was several days occupied with this li-ooi.I work. To look on those poor wretched creatures \\a-> a very sad si^ht. They looked all yellow and si:ii-\<'d, and were scarcely covered b\- ras^s. There Avere of cours<' ni.nn- side antl wounded, and tlio hospitals were crowded. We had, how- ever, good doctors, and I su[)i)orted tlicm to my best ability, [)assiniL( v\'-\-\ day a ivw hours in the hospitals, and L;oino" now ;ind then to .\u;;usta, or even to Xasln'ille, to li ii |i proxision-. and cither conmiodities from tlie S;inii,ary ox Christian Com- mission. Our ende.txours to do I'xcrythini; thai possibly could be done lor the jxior Soiitheriu:rs were kindl)' appreciated by the Atlani.i people, who once sur- prised us with a sereiiado; thonM-li wc: laughed much at the jj;reat variety of MUl^il il instiamienl-^, and tl'.' ipicer music produ.C(.'d b\ :Iiem, wc felt hi'Jdy liTatificd at the kind fn Ijul;- cxpressetl by it. I do not know whether in th' inilil,ir\ law al' the different punishmeni-' .u'c allowed which 1 '^aw in the army, but I can scarcely believe it, lor they peo pill( crii hou wa v;lii bus Iron for wli. ob Piiitislniiciit ill the Army. i6- in WW s- \v. -1 ^\•crc c\cc.cdini;"ly liarbarous, and ncjt at all in ac- cordance; ^vith the spirit of tlic iXmcrican law. I am rather inclinetl to believe that they were more sanctioned 1))' army tradition. derivinL;' their ori:L,dn from what once was thouL,dit necessary in the IJritish arm)-. \\'hipj)inL^ has been abolished, I think, by tJK; law, but wliat liad Ixk.'U substituted for it was far worse. Soldiers who had committed a breach of dis- cipline, or hatl been found drunk rtipeatcdly, were tied to a tree with a horse's bit or bayonet fixed in tlu.'ir mouths ; or they were suspended by their thuml^s in such a manner as just to reach the L;"roimd with the tips of their toes. Others were exhibited as drunkards for hours, standing" on tubs in the middle of the camj), and laughed at and teased b)' all passers-b)-, as used to be done when people were put in the stocks or exhibited on the pilhiry. Once when Salm hatl gone to Marietta, I heard cries of pain coming from the garden behind w\\ house. A poor fellow, with a baytnict in his mouth, was lied there against a tree and ex[)oscd to the glaring sun. I s( nt for Captain .Sttaiernagel, w\\- luu>l)and's Assistant Adjutant-( leneral, and h(urd from him that tlii •. man was jjunislied in this manner lor disobedience a,s;.i!nst .Salm. Mc; was a (ierman who had enlisteil recentl)-, and who relusedi obstinately to cut off his long elf locks. Salm M 2 1 64 To I Years of my Life. had sent for him, but the (icrmau insisted nn his ri^lit to wear h.is hair as he liked, making: a loni; s[)ecch about tyranu)- l)einp^ unworthy of a lV<:c^ country. In things concerning disciphne Sahn ihci not understand ;uiy joke, and he condemned tiie man to the aljove-mentioncd punishment. T insisted on his immediate release, luit Cai'iain Steuernagcl refused to comply with ni\- tlcmaiid, as was liis chit}-. .\l this I became ;niL;'r\', and as the captain woukl not take upon liimself the re- sponsibihty, I untied the poor felknv with m)- own liands, poor .Steuernag'cl not darini^' to liind.-jr me, thoui^'h he was much afraid of the eonse- (}uences. I took thi; ratlier crazy German iiUo my kitcivn, and gave liim something to eat and ih-ink, for he was utterly exhausted. In examining him I heard that he was a learned apothecary, and as I Ik ■came interested I resolved to fmd for him a ; lace where he could be of more use than in the ranks. Tlie man was not insensible to kindness, aiid on my advice he cut off his hair, went to Salm .\\'(\ begged his forgiveness. .Salm never heard lii i 1 had liberated him, for the captain of course did not care to tell ; and believing that he had suffered Tiis ]nmishmcnt it was rtot difficult for nie to interest ni}- kind husband in liis fa\'our, who made him doctor in a coloured rcLjjiment. A great but pleasurable excitement was produced Salni goes to SavaniiaJi. 165 in Atlanta by the arrival of the paymaster. In con- seriuence of the insecurity of the; roads, this rare birtl had not appeared in our camp for nearly ei<4ht months, and jjenury was the prevailing epidemic. I think I spoke before about the evil consequences (jf this mannc^r of payine^ soldiers in th(^ American ami)-. It compelled the officers to sell their pay- rolls in athance to ag'ents, who took enormous in- terest. Tile privates were still worse off. for they took tickets, representing a certain sum, from tlu: sutlers, wlio made immense profits. The com- manders tri(;d to regulate this trade as much as possible, but their powers in diis respect were limited, and, inorover, they had only too frequently Li'ood reasons to wink at the doinsjs of the sutlers and their agents. On October 3, Salm received orders to go with his old regiment to Savannah, which had been evacuated by the rebels already, about Christmas. I went with .Salm as far as Augusta, where I in- tended to sta)-, together with Mrs. Stcedman, until further orders. My sister came also to Augusta, for her husband had been aj^pointed assistant provost-marshal of the department. 1 occupied w\\- self as usual in the hospitals and their affairs. T frequently visited Atlanta, Macon, and Xashville, to which latter place I went on Octol)er 16 with Dr. Simon, riding again, as I tind in my diar)-, on the ' cow-catcher.' This manner of travelling i66 l\)i Yca>\< of )>iy Life. is not at all (lisaL;r(H'aI)lc, for one has ircsli air, and is 'ixvx: from the dust and licat of the Inco- motivc. I coukl not k'.av^c Aui^usta before,- Ocloljcr 2S. The j(jurney was very un[)leasanL and fatijj^uin;;', for we liad to travel nearl)- sixty miles in a stai^e- coacli until we reached station • l'\)ur one-half,' where we had to remain until ( )ctol)er 30. We arrived at last in Sawuinah, and stopped at the Pulaski 1 louse, where I was much disa[)pointed in not hndiuL^- k'elix, who had gone to l*"ort Pulaski ; JDUt 1 soon received a letter from him infoi-ming me that he woukl be obliged to sta)' a fe-w da)-s in Fort Pulaski, ])ut would come and fetcli me as soi-o Avithout me, and I followed hun in the afternoon, ^ in a tug, accompanied Ijy C\)ujnel Carlton, the c|uarter- master of the departmtnit. Fort Pulaski, situated on a narrow j)eninsula and washed 1)}' the sea, was then a most horrid i)lace. Halving sustained a siege and being partlj- in laiins, the accommodations for the garrison were very bad, and the placg, not having been cleanctl for a ver\- long" tiiTic, was filthy beyond description. In con- air, jS. II nn-, i-c- altV W'c the In ski ; orL 1 as 111 The ' Fa n>/\ /.. I'/r ' Oil a S>iair 167 scciuciK'c <)t tliis, sicl-ii'-^-- aiiioni^st ilic sold icrs w;is I) rev alcnt. iiul a <'rcai m.un of ilicin suffered from a kind of cliolera «)i- A\ s.-ni- with vomiLinLf. lie sine and iIk' ainii in tne casemates m Aviiich we were lo li\i wa-^ iiorrid, especiall\'on cUiys \vlu:n U ic wealhei Ih ■v\,|-~ CllUl and tl le ram pourin<,r down. whoh' M oreover, llv !•<■ was no lui-niiure, anc ijlarr ■ •\lr< iiiel\- dism; 1 the did not wonder thai Colonel ('arlion was (juitc; distrusted, and returnetl lo Saviinnalt uii ilie siii. We fcjllowed him next ilay, to lelc!i m.ai) ihinL;s in oi'der to make our al)ode more chc( riul. ;iik1 to ]iro\-iile medicines, ))rovisions, and other I'milorls for our |'oor sick soUliers. I'elix |4ot lea\"e \'^'^<> lo .\u!^usta. and we started from Pulaski on \\v i'>di in a small sailinL,r-boat, hut -were loo late in .N;i\anna!i for the steamer ' Ciihhons.' We thereiorf ujok places in the; steamer ' l'"ann\' Lehr,' which l<-fi for Au<'usta at four o'clock r.M. 1 had a ^■er_\■ niei- --i,tl(.'-room on the hcjat, hut she had scarce!)' proiocdtd iorty miles u|) the river when she struck on a sna^. which centered lu;r hulk, makin;;' a hi^' leak throiiL^h which the water came in ver\' fast. The capiain u\ once sent off a messcnj^er *o .S cvannah lo le-tch assi^i.ince, and \\\\ meanwhile siK'i.eeded in L;ettinL; oU iIh- sna;.;', v.wd paddlinL( out of the stream nearer i" \\)>- hank ot the river. The watgr ros(^ \x;r)- alannin^iv, and stj©n C.x'Xin^'uished IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) V / O k M ■m^.r :/. Ua 1.0 !:"^ I.I 1.25 1^ 1^ t ML 1.4 125 2.0 1.6 (^ 'e). c-: //, A >^ i P y Photogiapiiic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY 14580 (716) 872-4503 (v iV ^ N> <*^*i^ ^"^ <^ % ^ ^ -«. [<$> lV i68 Ten Years of my Life. the engine fires. The fore part of the ship sank to the muddy bottom, and the captain was afraid she would break right in the middle. The weather was fortunately very fine, and while waiting for assistance we amused ourselves with watching the alligators crawling in the muddy water around the ship. Salm regretted that he had no gun to give them battle. He becfimc quite excited when he saw a very big fellow crawl on shore, and wanted to get off the ship to pursue and kill him ; but he had to give up such an idea, as the ground was everywhere an unfathomable swamp. The ship did not break, and on the 21st the Fteamer ' Minnie Brand ' came from .Savannah to assist us. She had been a gunboat, plying on the James river, the same as the ' Fanny Lehr.' We Avere glad to be afloat again, and steamed rather fast up the river, where we overtook the * Robert Lehr,' a ship belonging to the compan)', heavily loaded with all kinds of provisions. When we were just alongside of her she ran on the sunken wreck of a ship. It was a tremendous shock. She trembled like a person in great fear, and went down as if she had been lead. It was a pity to see all the boxes with fine wines and baskets of champagne tumble into the water, and sink after a few moments. The crocodiles muSt have had a nice time that day, for there was wine enough on board to make them all drunk. We succeeded in saving not only the raiti •hilc i!;un Dishandincr the 6'Sth I\ \CgU)lC. Hi. 169 captain and crew, but also a Ijox of fine claret and a basket of champaj^re. As the captain of the wrecked ship had no objection, we had certainly none, to make acquaintance with the contents of box and basket. These accidents happenini,^ to the ' l*"anny ' and the ' Robert Lehr ' were entirely (n\ ini,^ to their cap- tains neirlcctini;" to take pilots from Savannah, who were xquainted with every old snai;' and other unsafe places in that treacherous river. We arriv(xl in .Auij^usta on the 25th, in the after- noon, and heard from Cieneral Steedman that the order to disband the 68th Re^^iment had arrived from the War Department alreatl\- two days a_Ljo. The regiment had suffered much by sickness, especially at Fort Pulaski, and was therefore sent home before the end of its time. Salm had to t^o to Wainsbury, where the luggage of the regiment was still being kept, and I remained meanwhile with Mrs. General .Steedman and my sister. My husband returned soon, and on the 29th November we embarked on board the steamer "Gib- bons' for .Savannah. .She was a most uncomfortable old tub, and it was well we went down the river and not up. When we arrived on the 20th in .Savannah we found there man)' officers of the 68th Regiment, all very much excited, aiul glad to return home. Salm was inclined to go with the 68th Regiment 170 'J\ii i'orrs of })!}' Life. to New \'(trk, ^vlK'^e it was t () .)e (lishantled, but as )lh >lc thi it(;cl h I nolliiiiL; hill unpleasant tluni^s a\vait(;cl luiii lliciT persuaded him to accompan\- nu; to r>akiniore and Wasliin'-ton. The re<;'inienl hti ihert^fore without luni m a transport steamer tor New \ oi"k. on tlte ')di I)ecenil)iM', wliile \\v. remained in Saxannah until odi, linish.inL; our prt;parations a nd Sunday the i taking' K.'ave ol our man\" kind triends. ( )n that ()n our tuture. The WcU' was oxer. All the xolunteer i.;encrals and colonels returned to their form( r a\()cations, and in due time Salm was dismissetl also. There were man)- of our frientis in Washini.;ton, ycncrals and senators, and several of them tried to persuade Sahn Saliii and Ihc Mexican .Inny. 171 to enter the retfiilar army. Many senators promised to use th(;ir influence to procure Iiim a commission as colonel, and Prc;si(.lent |ohnson, who was ver)' favourably disposed towards him, approved also of that plan. Salm. ho\vev(M-, did not lik(i to serve- in the rcL^'ular ;u'in\- of the I'nited .States duriuLi' pe-ace. Though he had succeetled xcry well in that country, he could not fulh' l)e r(;conciled to the iilca otlivin:.;" there lor ever, and had always in view his linal return to J'lurope and his family, to which he was very much attached. HaviuL;'. howe\'er, spe-nt his fortune, and losing his pa)' as a general with his beini^' dismissed, neces- sity urt^ed him to decide s(K)n what ccnu'se to take. .\t that time a i^reat many former oftkers were in a [)()sition similar to his, and some of them took ste[)S to enter the Liberal army of Me.xico. The sympathies of Salm were, howc;V(;r, with the Vaw- peTor Ma.vimilian, and thou_L;h man\' friends warned him ;iL;ainst linking" his fate to that of this prince, they ilid not succeed in dissuading' him from his purpose. It was in \'ain that the\' predicted a speedy end to the Me.vican empire, saying' that the (lovcrn- meiit of the; United .States coidtl not and would not permit the establishment of a monarchy so close to their frontiers. .Salm. who had scrv'cd in the Austrian army, had a i)ersonal love for the l'!nii)eror Ma.xi- 172 Ten ) Cixrs of my I, 'fc. milian, antl did not doubt that he, having been a ireneral durinir the war in the United States, would be received by liim favoural)!)'. He communicated liis intentions to the German minister, l^aron von Gerolt, and also to the French ambassador, Marquis de Montholon, and the Austrian minister, Haron von W'ydenbruck, who all approved of his jjlan, and promised him stronjj; recommendations. ICven President Johnson, thouj^h he could not sj^ive him letters of introduction, did not disapprove of it, and on his request j^ave him a very ilatterini;' testimony, in which liis sc^rvices were fully and favourably ackn()\vled<4ed. Captain von Groeben, who had become much attached to my husband, would not part with him, and resolved to accompany him and try his luck also in Mexico. I was to remain with the Corvins until I should hear of Salm's success. In the middle of T^ebruary all his preparations for the voya^je wxM'e made. Baron Gerolt had given him letters of introduction to the German minister in Mexico, Baron von Magnus ; Marquis de Montho- lon gave him a letter to Marshal Bazaine, and the Austrian minister one to the Emperor, to be de- livered by Count Thun. I had gone with Grocben to New York to secure a berth on board the ' Manhattan,' which was to sail for Vera Cruz on .Saturday, the 24th February, 1866. Salm arrived in the morning in l-lverett House, New The (h'autijiil Po/oii/ac. n: Ml a ould (CW York, wlicrc he met nic .iiul (iroebcn and many friends \vho came to iak(' leave; o! him, [;crhai)s for (■v(-r. I went with Sahn ;ind (lri)el)en on li^.-inl the ■ Manhattan,' wliich was to start at lialf-pas.t tlu-ee in the afternoon. I shall imt dwell on our l(a\-e-takin;j,. I felt very sad and lonely when I returned to the hotel, and soon altc'rwards to < "leor,^■eto\\n. The Corvins had to i^^ixe up their h,ou:-(; to its returning proprietors, and we rented ;uioth<'r in Massachusett.s Axcnue, \\'a'-hin:.;ton. Time passetl there very quiet and ple.asanlly. Though we ditl not entertain much comp:ui} , we recei\ed now anel dien visits fn^m some friends, and anK)ii.;st them was C()lonel Moore, who had chari^'e of the mililar\ eenn.'terie.s around Washington and in \ ir^inia. ili- was an atjreeable man, ami we inade man\" excursions, either on horseback or in a c.arriai^c, and still more iVe([uently in a boat on tlie beautiful Totom-ie. The valle\s of this ri\i r aboM- Washington, in th( neii^hbourhood of the chain bridge, are beautilul, and we passed there sometimes a Avliole da\. lakiii,^; with us provisions of ever\- kind, and plent_\ of ice to cool our wine and water, or to [ireserxe our meat, which even when roasted becomes alixc ir. a f''W hours if lluit precaution is ne^lecteil. There, on the hank {)( some clear rivulet, bubbling; o\er rocks, 1} ini; in luxuriant ijrass untler the shade of di-nse bushes, we 174 Ten Years of })iy Life. passctl in:in\' iilcasanl hours. Mr. aiul Mrs. Corviii sketch iuL;', ami I looking;' c)ii. 'I he walks near ihc Potomac, in the cooler even- ings, arc delighlful. W'lioie clouds of iire-llies hann,', now higher, now lower, over the meadows, studded with larL;er and more brilliant glowworms, which were imprisoned sometimes in our hair, so that they fornu;d round our heads a circle of stars. The loud cicadas, which in the tlaytimc scarcely ever interrupt their shrill monotonous song, are aslee[), a:ul relieved by the frogs, whose song is far different from the discordant cries of their European cousins, for they se(;m to come from tiny well-tuned silver bells. Between this pleasant dreamy music is heard at intervals a single souiid. as if produced by the cord of a bass-viol pinched up between the thumb and index. Then again one; is astonished by tlv mewing of a little cat, coming, however, froni some catbirds, awakened by us from their sleep, whilst in the distance is heard occasionally the ' v.'hip-])oor- wili.' On the 4th of Jul)-, the greatest festival in the United States, we escaped the noise in the streets, produced li)- hundreds of tliousands of crackers and other firev.orks, by making a part)' to the great b''alls of the Potomac, about ten (jr twelve miles from Washington, it is astonishing that these most pic- turesque P'alls are not visited more frecpiently by the his 'Jlic Fourth of "jnly. ^11 \Vashii\!^4on people. Were tlie)' siluated nc^ar a j^reat luiropean cit)' thousaiuls of tourists would con- stantly make ihcni tlu; aim of their excursions, for they are inde<;il, most wonderful. It is as if tin- hands of immensely stron;^'' i,nants h;id plajed th(;re with pebbl(;s, as hii,r as four-storied houses, and left th(.'m in wiKl confusion. Amons^fst these; .■ tupendous black, sharp-ed_t;c'fanhattan,' where he, however, had to remain until tl [9 th up from quarantme. We were very happy at this unexpected meetinc vol.. I. N 178 Ten Years of uiy Life. and started once inon; reunited for X'ci'.i C'rii/. On the 22nd wc landed at Susal in Yiikatan, a province bclon,i,nni,r to the Mexican eniiMre, where we passed very aj^^reeable liours in exploring; this interesting^ little place. It is inhabited by a very fine, noble- I'jf^'cing" Indian tribe, differinij; considerably from all Ii!'dians I have seen cither in North America or in Mexico. Their white tlress is very tasteful and picturesque. Over a white petticoat, of which \\\^ edges arc ornamented with embroidery of the most lively colours, representing flowers and arabesques, they wear a loose skirt embroidered in the same manner. We left at five o'clock r.M., and without any incident worth mentioning we arrived at Vera Cruz, on Friday, August 24, and alighted in the Diligencias Hotel. On incc isccl .ble- i all ii" in and the most |ues, any Zruz, ncias BOOK II. M E X I C O i8r CHAPTER I. \'cr;i Cruz — (Ircat j,'r;i\ cyaid — A Mexican diligence — Robbinj; the tliiigcnce— A j,fcntlcmanly sport — Paper dresses — Terra Tcmpl.-ida — '(ictout if you can — rulc|uc — In an Indian hut — Orizava — I'ucbla— The plateau of Mexico — (iencral Zcrman — Baron Ma^^'nus. TiiH entrance to Mexico is not inviting, but rather repulsive, 'rhough gl'^<-l to feel again firm ground under your feet, your sea-tired eyes are longing in vain for some refreshing green, for the sand)-, sim- bakcd coast is as bare of vegetation as the palm of )our hand. On approaching the regularly-built town of Vera Cruz, with its whitewashed tombstone-like houses, you feel a shuddering creep over your whole body, for you are entering an at. losphere reminding you of the catacombs, coming from the surrounding swamps from which a tropical sun distils poison. No Avonder that the yellow fever, called Yellow Jack by the sailors, is master of the place for about nine months in the year. It is the most deadly place to Europeans, of whom thousands are buried around it. On entering the town this uneasy feeling is still increased on seeiiiij almost more vultures than l82 Ten Years of my Life. people. These most disgusting scavcnger-l)ircls^ called there Zapilotes, arc as impudent as sparrows in European cities ; they are protected by the law, because the carelessness and indifference of the inha- bitants to sanitar)' matt(;rs makes them a necessity. There was nothing either in the Diligcncias Hotel or in the town to retain us, and we left for Mexico next day at two o'clock p.m. Though the railroad built by the French was b)- no means good, it was a blessing, for it offered the means of passing (piickl)- through a most dreary countr)-. The heat was overpowering, but the cars were tolerably air}', and the seats were not provided with cushions, which would have been quite intolerable. We had with us an escort of French soldiers, and how much thej- were required was proved b}' the ai)[)earance of some guerillas, who lied, however, after a few shots. The country became more attractive towards the eiid of our journey, and v,-e arrived without further accident in Paso del Macho, where the railroad reached its end. Next morning we continued our journey per dili- gence, and started at five o'clock. The coachman objected to the admittance of my dog Jimmy in the diligence, but the almighty dollar softened his heart, and on paying the fare for a two-legged passenger my inseparable four-legged companion was allowed I 3 A Mexican Diligence. 183 a seat, A French lady was not so fortunate, for her splendid Newfoundland dog was too lar<;e, and she had, with much regret, to leave it behind under the care of an attendant. A Mexican diligence is a most wonderful vehicle, only surpassed by the won- derful roads. It is dragged along by (.'ight mules, first two abreast, then four, and then again two. The skill of the coachman with a confusion of reins in his hand is admirable. His place is indeed no sinecure, for he has to keep on a perpetual conversation with his mules, which he calls b)- their names, animrting them b)' all imaginable kinds of sounds. He would, however, scarcely succeed in persuading them to do their duty alone by means of his eloquence, if not sup]:)orted by an aide-de-camp, a boy as active as a monkey. Now he runsalong the road collecting stones, now climbs up with his load at the side of the coach- man, throwing with unerring aim a stone at some offending mule, uniting his voice to that of his chief. This man is a very important personage, and his pa)- is very high — I believe nearly three hundred ijilders a month — besides free board and lodging. He looks very picturesque with his leather jacket, large gold ornamented sombrero and shaggy zapa- teros, or short trousers made of goat-skin, from which the hair has not been removed. It occurs very frequently that the diligence is attacked and plundered b)- robbers, and many hor- rible adventures of that kind are recorded, furnishing 1 84 Ten Years of viy Life. the passengers no very reassuring matter for conver- sation, and keeping them in a continual excitement. To rob a diliijfence seems not to be disijraceful in Mexico, for though it is committed by common ruffians and thieves, even people of a higher class look upon it as a chevalcrcsque sport. There are many well-to-do rancheros or farmers, living quite re- spectably and otherwise in good repute, of whom it is said that they indulge in this harmless amusement ! The robbers take care to conceal their faces, either by blackening them or in some other manner, and if not resisted, or not in danger of being recognised, they rarely commit murder. They generally ride splendid horses, and are most richly dressed. At some favourable place, and there are plenty on that road, tlie mules are suddenly stopped. The coachman does not even attempt to escape or resist ; it is his policy to remain neutral, for if he acted otherwise it would be not only in vain, but cost him his life — a bullet from behind some bush would end his career at his next journey. He therefore i.. most cases is not molested, remaining a passive spectator of the scene, which is enacted with in- credible celerity. Though the escort now and then furnished by the authorities is mostly absent when needed, it sometimes happens that ihey are at hand, and to escape such danger the robbers are compelled to act without any ceremony. Whilst one of them takes care of th(^ team, two others, cocked pistol in ^ \ nioi mu dift the cv ricd Paper Dresses. i8 = hand, invite the passengers to descend and to undress, as it is well known that they generally try to conceal their valuables in their clothes. The terror and confusion created by such an order may be imagined, especially if there are ladies amongst the passengers. An American lady, the wife of a Southern general, who had to travel to Vera Cruz with her daughter, was very much afraid of being sul^jected to such treatment, which would have destroyed many illusions created by Parisian toilet art. She therefore, being a very practical lad)-, provided against such horrible emergency by having made for herself and daughter paper dresses, which b^^'og without value would not tempt the cupidity of robbers. Siie had, however, no opportunity of making use of her ingenious expedient. On this journey, as on all others I made later in Mexico, I was fortunate enough never to encounter any of these waylaj'ing gentr)'. 1 he road and the landscape seen from it became more and more interesting, but scarcely for the poor mules, which did their utmost to surmount incredible difficulties, and we descended frequently, partly to lessen their load, but still more to escape for awhile the severe shaking and bumping which was too much even for us, though used to bad roads in the Ame- rican war. The weather was, liowever, beautiful and not too i86 Ten Years of my Life, hot, for \YC liad entered the region called Terra Teniplada . The woods which we passed were beoutiful, for all the trees were garlanded up to their tops with a great variety of creepers with splendid flowers of the mosL brilliant colours, vjiiig with those of large butterilies. It was a most charm- ing wilderness, initouched by the hand of man. To our right and our left we saw deep valleys and i/ullies overgrown with a confusion of luxuriant trees and plants, concealing torrents of the foaming waters of which we only now and then had a glimpse. One place on this road is called Salsi Puedcs — 'Get out if you can.' It was cither here or at a similar place that our diligence broke down about noon. In the neighbourhood we saw the hut of an Indian family. Though only built of reeds and covered with aloe-leaves, having no windows but only a door, it appeared to us far more inviting than any Mexican pulqueria or ev(!n hotel, for it was shaded by beautiful trees and overgrown with beau- tiful llowcrs, of which the Indians are very fond. They are always to be found in great profusion around their dwellings. The hut, wl)ich we entered, had moreover the extremely rare advantage of scrujjulous cleanliness, and the Indian couple inhabiting it n-ceived us with great hospitality. They served us tortillas, a kind of llat corn-cake, used everywhere in Mexico instead of bread — several kinds of fruit and pulque, the Ircrra were |iip to with Gd out if yoii can. 18; national drink of the Mexicans. It is made from the mayue)' plant {.'li^avc Americana), in Europe generally called aloe, which with the different species of cacti, growing;' everywhere, give a Mexican landscape its (juitc i)eculiar character, differing from that of any other country. The mague}' seems to he expressly made for a laz)- [jcople as all Mexicans are, either of Indian or lun'ojjean descent, for it rerjuires \-ery little cultr.re, and furnishes a great man\- thint-s for common use. There arc to he seen very large fields of this plant everywhere, protected hy natural fences of cactus plants with most dangerous thoriis, making them (juite impenetrable. The mague)' often reaches the height of eight or nine feet, but grows rather slow, for it rc([uir<..-i about ten years to arrive at maturity. Then springs forth from its centre a \cxy high-stemmed ilowcr, more admired in luiropcan liothouses tlian in Mexico, where it is not i)crniitted to bloom. In tlic period when the jjlant is preparing for it, a milky juice is collecting in its centre, or heart. This is cut out and a cavity made, which is filled se\eral times a day during three months and longer. A healthy, strong plant will yield in all not rarel}- one hundred gallons of pulque. After having given its heart's-blood toman the plant dies, but from its roots spring up a great mail)' baby- plants, which, removed in time and transplanted,, grow up without any care. 1 88 Ten Years of my Lije. The leaves of the niaij^uey or aloe are used for many purposes : tlie huts are roofed with them, and of their tendrils are made the most excellent cords and ropes : they are also beaten to a pulp from which paper is fal)ricatcd. Tlie cactus is rather a nuisance on account of its prickl\- character, but after all, when in bloom, its peculiar shape and the brilliancy of its yellow or burnins^-red beautiful tlowers, makes it a \ery original ornament, which I would not miss in a Mexican landscape. vSome species bear an eatable fruit, similar to a small fig-, and one kind servers for the breeding of a very useful insect, the cochineal. I have not seen such a plantation, nor do I know in what part of Mexico this branch of industry is carried on. The Indian cou[)le who treated us with such hospitality had the submissive manner and melan- cholic look of resignation always to be noticed in nations that have been subjugated and ill-treated by barbarians for centuries. I think I am not far wrong in calling thus the Christian .Spaniards who conquered Mexico. I shall speak of the Indians after- wards more at length, for they are more interesting to me than the descendants of their conquerors, and I am sure that they will recover from their present state of subjection and misery when an enlightened and strong government is established in Mexico. This can never be done by the white or Indian Mexican Indians. 1 8^ \\ for and tords ,'hich 5 Mexicans themselves, and therefore I hope the United States will find it advisable to unite this rich country with their republic. The Indians of Mexico are cliff(;rcnt from the; savat^^cs of California and the more Northern States, and I am sure that with proper encourat^ement it would scarcely require fifty years to revive in them the industrial instincts of their forefathers. Our friendly Indians were quite enraptured when we gave them some broad pieces, for they are not xised to kind treatment from the rulin_(^ race. Our dili<^ence was repaired sooner than we ex- pected, and we continued our journe}'. We entered in the afternoon a very well cultivated beautiful country, studded with countrj- houses and farms, where we saw large fields of Indian corn, sugar-cane, and coffee ar.u cacao plantations, finegardens with dif- ferent strange-looking fruit trees and many palm trees. Towards evening we approached the narrow but beautiful valley in which is situated the town of Orizava, where we were to stop for the night. It is tra- versed by the rivers of Orizava, Puerco, and de los Aguacates, and a rather large place with some fine churches ; but most of the private houses are only one-storied, and the streets are irregular. I did not see much of the town, for I was rather fatigued, and though we were badl}' lodged I was glad to rest my sorely shaken body. Salm heard here that General Negre, to whose IQO Ten Years of my Lljc. staff he was attached, had liccn transferred from Mexico to Puebla, and tliat he in consequence ■would also have to stay there, which he did not like at all. We left Orizava next mornin;^ at five o'clock. Thou<^h the weather in this latitude and at that time of the year is very chan.f^eable, we were for- tunate in diis respect and could enjoy the beauty of the country. Our journey w-as up-hill work, for we ascended the Cordilleras (there called Cumbres), and the road made in olden times by the Spaniards was very much out of rc[)air. At last we reached its highest point, La Canada, and arrived soon at an ugly village. Palmar, situated in a very ugly volcanic country, not much beautified by large maguey fields with cactus inclosurcs. The frame of this dreary picture was, however, surpassingly beau- tiful, for it was formed by snow-covered mountains, amongst which are most prominent the Popocatapetl, the Ixtaccihuatl, &c., compared to which even the Swiss mountains appear dwarfish. It was evening when we reached the plateau of Puebla, nearly seven thousand feet above the sea, and one of the richest parts of Mexico, where not only magueys and cactus and Indian corn are to be seen, but even wheat-fields, I was extremely glad when we arrived in the city of Puebla at nine o'clock I'.M, We alighted in the Hotel de Diligencias, where Pncbla, lyi we: were: lotl_L;'cd comfortably in ii lart^^c room ^vith three beds. Jimmy, whose nii^ht toilet required no preparations, took at once possession of the best of them, and I followed his example as fast as pos- sible, for I was never more tired in all my life. Next morninj^ Salm reported himself to his q^encral, and requested leave of absence for Mexico. He visited General Count Thun, the brother of the Austrian minister, whom he had known in Austria when captain in a re.L,nment of Uhlans. He met here also a former Prussian officer, Count Nostiz, whom we had known in the United States. Puebla once rivalled Mexico, and is still the second city of the empire. It is traversed by the river St. Francisco, and the rivers Atoya and Alzezeca flow near it. 'J'his abundance of water offers the means of keeping the streets cleaner than is usually the case in Mexican cities. In the middle of each street runs a stone-covered canal, .sweeping away all impurities which otherwise would be thrown into the street. The city is regularly built ; the streets are all paved and provided with side-walks. There are more than twenty s(]uares, large and small, and an inmiense number of churches — I believe about seventy, the chapels included. I have never seen a city with so many steeples and towers, which are the more prominent on a'^count of the Hat roofs of 19- Ten Years of my Life. the houses. Then; arc also many other \-ery IIik^ buildinj^s, for instance, monasteries and nunneries, liospitals, and three theatres. The principal place of the city is surrounded with Avide and lofty portales or arcades, where the Indians exhibit their produce for sale in lh(;dajtime, while they sleep there at nic^ht, offering the most curious and strange domestic pictures. The city had then only seventy thousand in- liabitants, for its number had been diminished in former times by epidemics. The eighteenth century was especially fatal in this respect, for the plague appeared three times, and once it came in connection with famine. The civil wars have also diminished its population and done great harm to its i idustry. It had formerly highly-reputed manufactories of line cloth, glass, china, soap, and cutlery, and even now it is in this respect in advance ot Mexico. Everything seems in Puebla more orderly and more civilised than in the capital, antl one does not sec so many poor people either. The view of the city is fine from all sides, and is rendered still more so by the great mountains forr ing the background. Whether the fortifications are very strong I do not know ; the city was, how- ever, taken in 1847 by the Americans, and in 1863 by the French, after a siege of two months. We left Puebla on the 30th of August, at three o'clock A.M., for Mexico. We had to pass a mountain Fir Trees. 193 lyinji^ between the plateau of 1\i(:l)la and tliat still hiL,fher of Anatruac. This road is not only very bad, but also in very bad repute on account of the many robbers frc-'quentin^ the neij^hbourhood of Uio b'rio. In an hour or two we rcaclnxl the region of fir trees, and passed throui^^h s[)lendid woods of cedars and fir species of which I do not know the name, but which look extremely pretty, their very long lisj^ht-L^M'een needle foliai^e han_i;in_<^ down in bundles from the branches. \''ery soon we saw before us the plateau of Mexico, which is eiy^hticn leac^ues in length and twelve and a half leagues in Avidth. It is sur- rounded by the most picturesque range of mountains, among which arc seen towering towards the pure blue sky the stupendous snow-covered volcanoes. The panorama presenting itself to the eye is one of the finest and most pleasing in the world. The vast plain is studded with fine farms and gardens, and here and there with sheets of water. Here and there, abruptly rising from the green plain, are to be seen hills which I was told were extinct volcanoes. It is said that the Spaniards have done much harm by their reckless destruction of woods, which before their arrival covered to a great extent the plateau of Anahuac, and that in consequence of this the fine lakes have diminished very much, the springs which once fed them being dried up by the sun, against which they were formerly protected by the trees. VOL. T. o 194 Ten Years of my Life. The view of the city of Mexico is splendid. That is all I will say, for though I have it vividly before my eye, and could perhaps paint it if I had the mechanical skill, I cannot describe it in words in such a manner as to give the reader a fair idea. I always found even the finest and most skilful de- scriptions of views and landscapes insufficient, and never succeeded in forming a distinct picture from them, if I had not seen the landscapes myself before. We arrived in Mexico at eight o'clock in the evening, and drove directly to my husband's lodging in the Puente de San Francisco. I considered it a lucky omen that we entered Mexico on diat day, which was the fourth anniversary of my wedding, and we celebrated it next day at a dinner given to us by an acquaintance of Felix, General Zerman. This orentleman had been a General in the United States during the war. I do not exactl}- know what business brought him to Mexico, nor do I believe he really had any, though he was always very fussy and busy, and talked much about enormous claims he had against the United States Government. Without being able to state an exact reason for it, one was inclined to suspect him of being somewhat of a humbug. He was a great dandy, and had the peculiar fancy of wearing always a grass-green suit. Next day Baron Magnus, the Prussian minister, General Zerman. t95 paid me a visit. Felix on first arriving in Mexico had a letter of introduction to him from kind Baron Gcrolt, and Baron Magnus had indeed done all he could to assist him. He behaved also in a very friendly manner towards me, and though I might have wished him to act with more energy and decision under circumstances where weak diplomatic tactics were of no avail, a too sharp criticism would grate upon my feelings, for towards my husband and myself he acted to the end with great kindness, and it would be ungrateful not to acknowledsre it witli thankfulness. Moreover, I overrated perhaps his power and influence in Mexico, and my eagerness to assist the Emperor, and to extricate him if possible from his dangerous position, made me perhaps too exacting and eager for a course of action which was not allowed to a Prussian minister. I ani jio diplomatist, and if I follow my impulse, as I generally do, I am not responsible to any king or prime minister if I commit a political blunder; therefore I am perhaps no good judge about the actions of diplomatists. If his Government were satisiicd with his behaviour in Mexico, he may smile at my unreasonable exactions. The Baron frcquentl)' took me out in his carriage to show mc the city, with which I became well acquainted, as I had to stay there several months. Though Mexico has not been described so frequently by tourists as London and Paris, and O 2 196 Ten Years of my Life. a detailed account of its beauties, antiquities, &c., might be interesting to European readers, such a description Avould overstep the limits of this work, even if I were able to give a satisfactory one, which is by no means the case. I therefore shall only touch superficially on one or the other subject, and give my individual impressions, or what I learnt occasionally. 197 &c., Ich a (vork, one, 'shall bjcct, learnt CHAPTER II Ori^'in of the City of ^Icxico — The Alameda — The Paseo Nuevo — A Mexican gentleman on horseback- I'lomcnadc de la \'iga — The floating islands — Theatres — Place d'Armes — The Cathedral — The Sangrario — Disputacion I turbide— Aqueducts — The National Mu- seum—The Sanctuario do (aiadalupc — Its wonderful origin — The Creole Virgin — Chapultepec — Hunnning-birds — Mexican houses and life — Mexican ladies — The Indians— A Ranchcro— Mexican market. TiiKRK exist of course many traditions in re- ference to the early inhabitants of Mexico. We should know more of the history of the country if the fanatic first Spanish Archbishop had not carefully collected throughout the uhole country all written records of the Indians, and burnt them as headienish abominations in the principal square of Mexico. About a thousand )cars ago the country was inhabited by a very industrious, highl)- civili/.ed, and good-natured people, the Toltekes. They disappeared, however, and were replaced b)- the Chichimckes, a barbarous people of hunters, whose descendants are to be found still in several provinces of Mexico. In the twelfth century seven tribes of the 198 Ten Years of my Life. Nahuatlakcs came fror-; the north nnd occupied the countr}'. One of these tribes Avas that of the Aztekes. These wandered for a long period from one place to the other without deciding on a final settlement, on account of an old oracle ordering them to continue their peregrinations until they should find a cactus (nopal) growing from the rock and an eagle sitting on it. Arrived on the plateau of Anahuac and on the banks of a lake, their priests really saw an eagle sitting on a nopal plant growing from a rocky mould. They now decided on remaining here, and called their town Tencchtitlan, which means, ' nopal on a rock.' From this the Mexican arms derive their origm. The town was later called Mexico, which either tomes from an Indian word signifying a fountain, or nore probably from Mexitli, the name of one of their principal idols. As the date of the foundation of Tenochtitlan is given the i8th July. 1327. At the time wlien Cortez arrived in Mexico the city had 300,000 inhabitants. I shall not speak of its past splendour, for it is described in hundreds of books containing the history of the Conquest. But all this .splendour, all the magnificent buildings, have been destroyed, for Cortez, furious at the resistance of the Aztekes, destroyed their city on the 13th of August, 1 52 1, and very soon commenced to rebuild it after a new plan. Thus originated the present city of Mexico, which is now inhabited by 200,000 people. It The Alameda. 199 fttinc: is six leagues in cI umferercc, and has four hundred and eighty-two streets, which are mostly straight, paved, and provided with side-walks. There are sixty large and smaller squares, fifteen monas- teries, twenty-two nunneries, seventy-eight churches and chapels, three great theatres, two arenas for bull- fights, three principal promenades, ten hospitals, &c. The streets of Mexico are extremely long and mostly very wide. The houses have never more than two storeys, and on the outside look extremely plain and monotonous. They have all the appear- ance of huge cubes, on account of their flat roofs. These flat roofs form a kind of yard, and are always surrounded with a breast-high wall. Like all Spanish cities, Mexico has its Alameda. Don Luis Velasco, one of the earliest viceroys, com- menced it in 1593. It enclosed then the Quemadero, the place where the Liquisition burnt more poor Lidians than the priests of the Aztekes slaughtered in honour of X'^itzliputzli. The establishment of a pleasure-ground near this horrid place was at that time not thought improper, for the burning of heretics and wretches who couldnotunderstand the mysteries of the Christian religion was then a very fashionable, and at the same time religious, recreation. At the end of the eighteenth century, religion had become less ferocious, and the Viceroy, Count de Revillagi- gedo, who ornamented and enlarged the Alameda to its present extent, removed this disgraceful abomina- tion. 20O Tcti Years of my Life. Tlie whole Alameda forms art oblong square of five hundred yards by two hundred and sixty, and is enclosed by a wall, along which are stone benches. The whole place is traversed by numerous walks, formed by different shady trees, and embellished with flower-beds and a number of fountains, amongst which are two ornamented with statues, and other- wise in a tasteful manner. Though the grounds looked somewhat neglected, the Alameda is a very agreeable place, of which the Mexicans are rather proud. It is especially in- teresting in the morning, when the ladies returning from church, and the gentlemen from their pro- menades on horseback, meet in the shady avenues, talking and flirting, or sitting on the benches to listen to the music of the French band, which played several days in the week from eight until ten o'clock. Most of the pojjular festivals, for instance. Inde- pendence Day — Sei)tember 13 — are celebrated in the Alameda. Another fashionable promenade for carriages and equestrians, the Rotten Row of Mexico, is the Promenade de Bucarelli, so called because it was inaugurated by the Viceroy, Antonio Maria Bucarelli, in 1778; now it is more frequendy called II Paseo Nuevo. It is a very long avenue, formed by four rows of ugly, crippled trees. The carriage-road in the middle, and those at each side of it for eques- trians, are badl\' kcut. There are some fountains The Plaza ac Tokos. 20I of is ICS. (ks, llth ler- Avitli rather ugly statues, and also a large equestrian bronze statue of Charles IV. of Spain, made by the sculptor, Don Manuel Tolsa. The Mexicans imagine that it is the most perfect statue in the world, and it is indeed a creditable work. It is more than five yards high, and stands on a pedestal of stone, and within an iron railing. It was at first placed on the great scjuare, but lest it might be destroyed by the people it was removed by the Government to a less exposed place, and finally transported, in 1852, to the Paseo Nuevo. Not far from this statue we find the Plaza de Toros, a circular wooden building of seventy yards diameter, with two tierj of boxes and seven rows of benches, where ten thousand persons ma)' find room. The building looks quite elegant with its many columns. The first bull-fight in Mexico was held in the time of Fernando Cortez. The beau-monde of Mexico drive there in the afternoon, at six o'clock. It is indeed a caricature of Hyde Park, for scarcely any decent carriages are to be seen, and many of them look as if they had been built at the time of the Conquest. The animals drawing these vehicles are suited to them, for the horses of that country do not casil)' submit to this service, and mules are almost alwaj's preferred. Though the turn-outs may not bear comparison with those of Hyde Park or the IJois de Boulogne, the ladies sitting in these closed boxes may vie in 2o: Ten Years of my Life. beauty with any in the world, Tliey appear on the Pasco ahvays in evening toilet — that is, low dresses and flowers in the hair. The g-entlemcn are there on their finest horses and in their richest riding costumes. When Avalking in the street they look like European gentlemen, but for riding on horseback they always wear a peculiarly rich and becoming costume. All of them have large brimmed sombreros more or less gorgeously orna- mented with gold tassels and cords. Their short jackets of cloth are set with arabesques in braid, and with a great quantity of small silver buttons. Over their ordinary trousers they wear others, which reach only from the foot to the knee ; they are very wide, cover the whole foot, and are richly embroidered with gold and silver. They look indeed very elegant on horseback, and when dismounting they always reminded me of that peculiar kind of pigeons which have their feet covered with lonof feathers. The silver spurs they use are remarkably large, with wheels like saucers. The Mexican horses are extremely fine, intelligent and strong, but rather small. They are as much covered with finery as their masters, and even more. The saddles are, I might say, the opposite of English saddles, for they are more like a chair with large pommels and high backs, covered with silver orna- ments. Behind the saddle is always fastened the serape of the rider, a kind of long plaid used by both Chapultcpcc. 203 sexes. The silver-studded bridle seems to me the most cruel thini^ imasj^inable, for the curb, a very lari^e iron ring, is so sharp that the jaw of a horse might easily be broken by it. The reins are a many- coloured silk cord. Behind the saddle hang from both sides shaggy goat-skins, which serve as covers for the pistol-cases. A lasso is also attached to the saddle. Mexican gentlemen appear accoutred in this manner as well on the promenade as on a journey ; and I must say that they look extremely picturesque. From the statue of Charles IV., the barrier at the end of the promenade, the distance is nearly twelve hundred yards. The principal fountain is about in the middle. To the rii^ht and left of the avenue are rather wet meadows, serving as a pasture for cattle. It is a pity tliat they are not planted Avith trees and shrubs, and laid out as a park. No finer place in the whole world could be fcnmd, for nowhere is to be had a more charming view wherever the eye may look. Towards the cast, beyond a beautiful plain covered with fine clusters of trees and studded with villas, is seen, on rocks, the old palace of Chapultepec, from whence comes the excellent drinking water, brought there by splendid aqueducts, which unfor- tunately are much out of repair in consequence of the civil wars. Looking towards the south-west, we see on the 204 Ten Years of my Life. bluish backL,n"ound of the mountains several fine villages, as Mixcoai, ' llorido,' Padierno ami Churu- busko, ' ensanj^^rentados,' San An<^el, and Coyoacom ; ■whilst turning to the south-east we admire the mountain giants, Topocateptl and Ixtaccihuatl, whose snowy heads seem to pass through the blue of the sky. Turning towards the west we see the hundred towers of Mexico. The Promenade de la Viga is that of the people, and whoever wants to become acquainted with the habits, tastes, and peculiarities of the middle and lower classes of Mexicans will find here the best opportunity. The Canal de la Viga serves as a means of com- munication between the two lakes of the plain of IVIexico, called Texcoco and Chalco. The ancient Tenochtitlan resembled Venice, for it was crossed by an immense number of canals, which in reality formed its streets. The Canal de la Viga is the only one remaining. The promenade runs along it, ami is most frequented in the months of April and May, especially at the hour between six and seven i'.m. It is much enlivened by the many people who embark here to visit neighbouring villages, for which purposes there are always a great many pirogues ready, conducted by Indians. The two favourite villages are Santa Anita and Ixtacalco, situate on the Canal de la Viga, and about Floating Islands. 205 a Icaq'uc from Mexico. They are inhabited only by Indians, and probably have not chant^rcd since the Conquest. There are still to be seen the old Mexican 'chinampas,' or floatin^^ islands, in which are ,iLj;-ro\vn the most beautiful flowers and ve_Li^(;tables. Similar establishments, I heard from a traveller friend, arc to be found also in the neighbourhood of Canton in China. All the inhabitants of these villa<:^es have such little gardens, from which they earn their living. They make more than twelve thousand piastres a year by selling flowers in Mexico. The construction of these fertile floating islands is very simple. The foundation is a sufficiently thick float made of rushes, and on this is laid good garden soil. In spring especially these floating gardens offer a most charming and original sight, although they are, on account of their humidity, all the year round covered wnth flowers and vegetables. It is quite surprising to see the manner in which they are occasionally transported from one place to another, which is very simply done by attaching them to a pirogue directed by two Indians. From the first Sunday after Ash Wednesday until Whit-Sunday the pirogues at the Promenade do la Viga are always crowded, each containing some- times fifty people sitting on the board, whilst in the centre three or four musicians make a musical noise, not very sweet to the ear, but satisfactory to one or 2o6 Ten Years of viy Life. two couples of female dancers, cxecutin_i,r the jarabe, Palama, or other popular dances. All these people amuse themselves amoni^st the Indians with eatinj^ and drinking'' pulque until sunset, when they »-e«^urn to the city crowned with roses or other flowers, and loaded with bouquets. Mexico has four or five theatres, of which two are excellent. The Theatre Iturbide is a very fine building-, and would bean ornament to any European city. Its interior is not only very elegant and tasteful, but also very convenient and spacious. There arc several tiers of boxes with fine white columns orna- mented with golden garlands of flowers, and behind them everywhere great saloons and other rooms, pro- vided with all comforts required for the toilet, for the ladies appear always in full dress, and the excellent light from a splendid crystal lustre permits them to be seen and admired. Amongst the many squares of the Mexican capital, the Place d'Armes is the largest and finest, for it is surrounded by the most remarkable buildings of the city. It is a large parallelogram Avith a can- delabra in its centre, within a square walk shaded by two rows of trees. It is entirely paved and kept tolerably clean. On its north side stands the Cathedral of ]\Iexico, on the identical place where once stood the ' Teocalli,' or Temple of Vitzliputzli, or, rather, Huitzilopotchli, the god of war of the Aztekes. It was commenced Aztekic Science. 207 [be, ppio I urn tind In 1573 by order of Phili[) II., and finished only in 1657. It is built of larL,^c cubes of porphyry, and stands on an estradc, and is surrounded by a walk formed by columns of two yards in heij^ht, and con- nected by chains. At a distance from these columns are planted pine-trees. At each of two corners of the ' cadenas,' or chain-closed walk, stand on a pedestal of five yards in height four death's-heads, and a cross with a serpent around its foot. I cannot give a minute description of this im- posing building, as I do not understand much of architecture. The style in which the cathedral is built seems to me a mixed one. Doric and Ionic columns are alternately used in the two square towers, which are seventy-three yards high, and have bell-shaped tops w'ith a cross on them. The principal front, looking towards the south, has three entrances, which are ornamented with statues and alto relievos. At the side of one of the towers is a ver)' curious relic of Aztekic science, a gigantic kind of almanac, which is about fourteen yards in circumference. It is made of solid stone, and on it are many symbolic figures. This interesting antic^uity was found, in 1 790, buried in the ground. In the towers arc forty-eight bells, of which the largest is six yards high, and called Santa Maria de Guadalupe. The interior of the cathedral consists of five 208 Ten Years of my Life. naves, of which two are closed and three open. Tlie lofty and boldly-arched vaults rest on large clusters of Ionic columns. There are in the church fourteen closed chapels and six altars, besides the principal, which stands in the centre. It may be approached from all four sides by seven large steps, and is enclosed by a balustrade made of tombac, on which stand sixty-two statues of the same metal, each Holding in his hand^ a candelabra filled with wa.x candles. This balustrade and similar work in this cathedral were made in Macao, in China. This chief altar reaches nearly to the ceiling. It is a pity that the fine proportions of this cathedral are spoilt by so many little chapels and compartments, and also by painted wooden statues of saints, &c., a. id other flimsy ornaments. The ornaments of the principal altar are, how- ever, not flimsy at all ; most of them are made of solid gold, and some set with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, &c. One golden ciborium is embellished by 1,6/6 diamonds. One of the vessels — I really do not know how it is called — which is a yard high, and weighs eighty-eight marks in gold, has on ore of its sides -5,872 diamonds, and another 2,653 emeralds, forty-four rubies, eight sapphires, &c. The value of this altar must be enormous, and I only wonder that the different Revolutionary Governments, which fre- quentl)' were in want of money, did not borrow from the church. One golden statue, weighing 6,984 the is The Dispiitacion. 209 this and icsof golden castellanos (an old coin), and set widi precious stones, has, however, found its way to the crucible. Close to the cathedral, and spoiling somewhat its effect, is the parish church of Mexico, called the Sangrario. On that place stood the oldest church in Mexico, which was burned down, and was rebuilt at the end of the seventeenth century in rococo st)'le — which in Germany is sometimes called pigtail style. The facade is, however, very neatly and elaborately made, but spoilt by some statues of extremely ugly saints. Opposite the cathedral, forming the southern side of the Place d'iVrmcs, is the town-hall, or Uis- putacion. The old building was destroyed in a riot caused by a famine. The Viceroy had bought all the Indian corn to be had cver)\vhere, it is said, to dis- tribute it to the people ; but, the people said, to sell it at high prices for his own benefit. The damage done ui this riot was estimated at three million piastres. The new building is a fine substantial structure of two stories, with arcades on the ground- floor and balconies to each window of the first floor. One of the two other sides of the square is occu- pied by the National Palace, the official dwelling of the X'iccroys, as also of the iMupcror Iturbide. It is no particular ornament to the place. At the opposite side wc: find the most elegant .shops of Mexico, and also coffee-houses and restau- rants. vol.. I. p 210 Ten Years of my Life. One of the finest buildiny^s in Mexico is the Mininide lun- peror of Mexico. The people cau_^ : 1 .\ this cry, and the general had no objection to ascend the old throne of Montezuma. On July 21, he was crowned as Emperor Augustin I. Several European princes, to whom this dangerous crown had been offered, had refused. General Santa Anna, a ver)- amljitious and intri- guing man, who had been a great favourite of Itur- bide, fell off from him, and headed an insurrection, in consequence of which the new Emperor had to (l)-, in 1820, with his family to Europe. Relyi'j; 01 his i)opularit)-, he returned to Mexico in the si. •.■.*- of 1824, was taken prisoner, and shot. His i .ii',e is, however, still [popular, a, 1 many places antl esta blishmcnts in Mexico bear his name. The house in which he lived, and which is built in rococo style, is wow an hoLcl, ami called In' its industrious owner ' Hotel Iturbide.' I have mentioned already the aqueduct'-, which convey good water from two different three'- .ns. For drinking it is alwajs iced, as in tlu: United Su;. ., 1 !id the Mexican mountains, especiall)' ♦^he Popocatoi)etl, furnish plenty of th's absolutely necessary commo- Mexican Baths. 211 dity. Great quantities are also imported from North America. At the end of the aqueduct of Belen, which comes from the inexhaustible basin of Chapultepec, has been built in rococo style a fountain, called Salto del Agua, It is more curious than pretty, and by no means embellished by two ugly sitting female figures. In the centre there is an alto relievo, repre- senting the arms of Mexico as the Spanish kings wanted it. It is a European eagle, with a cross on its breast, holding a sK.eld with arms around it. The Republic has accepted the old Azteke eagle, sitting on a cactus. More interestintif than the structure of this fountain is the life around it, and amongst the people crowding there the aguadores, or water car- riers, occupy the most prominent place. They fill with this water large bullet-shaped earthen vessels with handles, which they carry by means of leather straps fastened over their shoulders, or sometinies their heads. Their cries of 'Agua' are heard all day. They pour the water into the large stone filters, which are everywhere. I shall mention here that bath-rooms are in almost every house, and there are also many public baths. The Mexican ladies general!)- take their baths after returning from their morning promenade in the Alameda, and afterwards they are to be seen walking on tlie terraces of their houses drying their 212 Ten Years of my Life. mostly very rich long hair, hanging around them like a cloak. Some of the convents would perhaps deserve a description ; but I am tired of architecture. Interesting is a visit to the National Museum, on account of the Indian antiquities. I shall not ven- ture on an explanation and description of all the very curious ugly idols collected there. Most of the statues remind me of those of the Egyptians, as seen in the Museum in London and in the Louvre ; whilst other things one remembers having seen amongst the Chinese curiosities. These antiquities make us acquainted with many customs and the do- mestic life of the Aztekes, and I am sure, if some able persons would examine the ground half as care- fully as it has been done in Italy and Greece, many things would be found which might give ample infor- mation in reference to the history of the country, which now, as stated before, is very imperfect, thanks to the imbecile act of the first Archbishop. On seeing the inany things collected in this museum, and admiring the workmanship and the high polish of extremely hard substances, one won- ders in V, hat manner they could have done it, since the Aztekes had neither steel nor iron, though plenty of copi)er, silver, gold, pewter, and lead. The silver and golden jewellery of the Aztekes is in- deed wonderful. They understood also the art of enamelling. Sanctuai'io dc Guadalupe, 13 Amonijst tlic main' interestin.'' tritlcs I noticed a kind of ornament, shaped like a little sombrero, and made of oI)sidian, and was rather astonished on learning' tliat it was a military decoration. It is called tentetl (lip-stone) because it was worn in the under-lip ; I suppose in the same nianner as I have seen it in pictures representing some Indian tribe of South America. This decoration was awarded to warriors, not those who killed cn(;mies but those who made them prisoners, leaving the killing probably for the priests. In some of these tentetls were fastened small bunches of the brilliant feathers of huniming- bii'ds, and I suppose this was a higher class of the order, like the bows, leaves, swords, &c., attached as a distinction to several Prussian orders. AP the servants of the Mexican Emperor had the privilege of wearing such tentetls made of rock crystal. As I have not described any of the convents of the city, I shall make up for this negligence by speaking more at length of the most holy place in the whole empire, only one league from INIexico ; it is the Sanctuario de Guadalupe. Before describing it, I must first state the miracle from which it orim- nated. What effective means the conquistadores em- ployed in convincing the Indian heathens of the truth of Christianity I have mentioned already, and many Indians, though not very well understanding all the mysteries of the religion, found it not hard 214 Ten Years of my Life. to chancre their ugly idols for the Holy Virgin and the saints, whose images looked far more attractive. It was ten years after the Conquest, in th.e year 1 53 1, when there lived in the village oi Tolpetlac a recently converted Indian, who had received in bap- tism the name of Juan Diego. He was a good man, and frequently went to Santiago Tlaltiluclo, where the Franciscans taught the Christian religion. Once, when crossing a mountain ridge, which ended near the lake of Texcoco, in a point called the ' Nose of the hill,' — in Spanish ' Nariz del cerro,' and in Indian ' Tepetlyecaczol,' — he heard some extremely sweet music, of akind that he had never heard either amongst the Spaniards or his own people. Looking wonderingly around he saw a rainbow, far more brilliant than he had ever seen, and, framed b\- it, and in the middle of a white transparent cloud, a very sweet-looking handsome lady, dressed like one of the court ladies of his late heathenish Emperor. The poor ignorant man did not guess who she was, but was not afraid, and approaching her, she told him that she was ' the Mother of God,' and wanted the erection of a temple in her honour f)n that very spot, promising protec- tion to all those who would pray there, and ordering Juan Diego to tell the Bishop what h(; had seen and heard. b>ay Don Juan de Zumdrraga, a Franciscan, and Bishop of Mexico, would not believe in the story, and sent the Indian away. The Holy Virgin, how- ever, was not satisfied widi this, and appeared to yuan Dicj^o. 215 liiin tlircc times again. Troubled in his mind, and not daring to go again to tlie Bishop, he resolved to confide in a confessor, whom he would consult also about his uncle, Juan Bernardino, who was very dan- gerously ill. Afraid of encountering again ' the Mother of God,' he took another road ; Init at a place, which is still to be recognised, which seems rather strange, b)- a smell ot brimstone, and a spring of which the water has the; taste of that suspicious mineral, she a[)peared for the fifth time, told him that his uncle was pcrfectl)- well again, and ordered him to gather roses on the summit of the moun- tain, which he should bring to the Bishop as a token that all he hail told was tru(,'. Now, on that mountain had never before grown anything but thistles and thorns ; but when the Indian went there, he found the most beautiful and most odoriferous flowers, which he put in his tilma, and went to the Bishop. This gentleman, on l)eing informed of the errand of the Indian, came, with some priests running eagerly after him. Juan Diego told his adventure in all his simplicity, and when untying the two ends of liis tilma, to produce the roses, lo ! the Bishop and all the priests fell on their knees as if struck by lightning, for on the a\'ate of the fortunate Indian was impressed the imag*} of the Holy X'irgin, as the face of our .Saviour was impressed on the handker- chief of St. Veronica. Now of course all doubts were removed : the 2l6 Ten Ycais of my Life. miracle was evident. It happened on the 12th of December, 1531. ten years and four months after the Conquest, under the pontificate of Clement VII., and during^ the reign of the Emperor Charles V. What appears to me especially wonderful is, that on the celestial picture the Holy Virgin is not only represented in an Indian dress, but also with an Indian face and complexion ; though I ought not to wonder, knowing that she appeared in Africa like a negress, and having seen in Rome a picture of the Mother of God with a black face. When the Bishop recovered from his stnpefaction he overwhelmed the blessed Indian with compli- ments, and went out to visit the places sanctified by the apparitions. He took the miraculous picture first to his house, and transferred it a few days later to the Cathedral. This picture is j)ainted, probably by some angel, on a cloth woven from the fibres of some Mexican plant, and made by Indians. The Holy Virgin wears a tunic of woollen stuff, descending from the neck to the feet, and her head is covered by a manto ; in a word, the costume of a noble and rich Azteke lady. Her complexion is brown, her hair black, her expres- sion amiable, humble and open. This image is called the Creole Virgin. Obedient to the order of the Mother of God, the Bishop erected first a hermitage of adobes — air-dried unburnt bricks — where flie miraculous pic- Dei Ccn'ito. 217 of Ithe ukI ture was transported in 1533. Juan DicLjo built for himself a little house close by, and died there after seventeen years, at the at^e of seventy-four. His uncle, eii^hty-six years old, di(;d, and was buried in the chapel. This chapel was, in the year 1622, replaced by a more worthy building, which cost 800,000 piastres, and the many worshippers behaved so liberal!)-, that the sanctuary could soon be ornamented with sacred vessels richer than even those in the Cathediil. Many, however, had to go to the crucible during the war. The Cathedral, standing now at the foot of the still sterile and bare hills, is a very extensive building, with six towers. Higher up the hill, at the place where the Virgin appeared for the first time, has been built also a chapel called Del Cerrito, and around the sanctuary has sprung up a place, which, since the declaration of independence, has been created a town. The peoi)le of the higher classes worship there every 12th of each month, but on the 12th of December takes place the great festival, in which partake the Chief of the Government and all the authorities. It is celebrated with a splendour which is scarcely surpassed in Rome. The Indians have still another festival, at which they dance old Indian dances, a'ld much disorder takes place. In 182 1, the Emperor Iturbide instituted here the Mexican order of Guadalupe, which was abolished 2l8 Ten Years of my Life. for a time, but rc-establi.shctl aj^ain in 1853 !))• Santa Anna. It is the highest Mexican order, and Sahn Avas verj- proud when he received it from the lun- peror Maximihan, in Oucretaro. There are connected with Guadahipe several his- torical reminiscences, but I cannot exactly remember then, and will only mention that here the peace with the United States was concluded on February 2, 1848. Having seen from the new [iromenade Chapul- tepec, my curiosity was roused, and the more so as the Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlotta seemed to have a particular liking for tliat place, which was once the residence of the Viceroys. The blood- sucking Viceroys had disappeared from there, but it seems that they left behind a legion of not less blood- thirsty diough small sul)stitutes, which even dared attack the Imperial blood of tlic Mapsburgs in such a ferocious manner that on the first nioht which the Imperial couple passed in Cliapultepec they had to fly before them, and pitch their beds on the open terrace. The palace is a long, narrow, ugly building, standing on a bare hill, which is enclosed by fortifica- tions, through which leads a very low and miserable staircase. The Emperor established himself, how- ever, in a pavilion standing on the utmost edge of the rock, and containing only a few rooms, but whence the view is enrapturing. The whole valley of A I I iic/i u etcs Trees. 19 inta f;ilm Mcxico is before us. aiul nv<'ry house; in the city is to be seen distinctly, for Chapultcipec is only half an hour's drive from it. '\\\v. Cathedral of Guadalupe, leaninp^ at^ainst the ridi^^e of Tepeyayac, is also before us in all its splendour. The bare hill on which the vice-royal palace is built is surroimded by a natural park, such as is not to be found an}'\vhere in Uii.4 wide world. What are the Central Park in New "\^)rk, Regent's Park in London, the Pois de Boulogne in Paris, the Bieberich Park on the Rhine, the Prater in \^ienna — nay, (iven the i)rid(.' of B(M"lin, the Thie-rgarten — what are they all in comparison to this venerable and delightful spot, with its Ahuehuetes trees, which w(.'re there alread)- in the golden age of Mexico, when .still the benevolent Ouatzalcoatl. the god of the air, lived amongst the gentle people of the Toltekes ? Under the shade of these green vaults, even the bloody conqueror Corte/'s heart felt softened at the side of his enchantress, Malitzin. There are still the basins where loathed the many pretty Indian wives of Montezuma. On entering this natura^ temple, a delicious shudder creeps over )our whole body, and you dare scarcely speak aloud. From the emerald green ground rise the gigantic Ahuehuetes trees, a kind of cypress, of which the enormous branches stretch widely out, and hang down like those of European firs. They stand on a pedestal formed by the curiously twisted and inter- 220 Tai Years of my Life. laced roots, from wliicli sprinj^^ forth tlieir cord-like stems, wound around each other as in a cable, hut more irregular, and formirig' thus the strani^'e-lookintj;' trunks which have a circumference of at least twelve or fifteen yards. As if the jj^recn of their foliage was not thoutj^ht becominLi' to their \enerable aj4'(-.', the trees are covered up to tlieir tops with a silk-like silvery-grey parasite plant, hanging (^-nvn in rich, slightly curling locks. The monotony of this uniform ;^iv...ii and grey colour is relieved now and then by trees of a lighter green with yellow drooping (lowers and grape-like pink fruits, and beautiful coloured butter tlies and birds, amongst them the gem of the winged tribe, the sweet humming-bird. It occurs also in North America, and even as far north as New York. I never had, however, a better opportunity of observing" and admiring this graceful little creature than in Washington. There stands in the Capitol garden, close to one of the principal walks, a red-blooming, peculiar kind of chestnut-tree, which has quite a reputation amongst ornithologists, and I heard that a celebrated ICnglish naturalist declared this tree alone to be worth a voyage to America. The juice of the red chestnut flowers must have a peculiar sweetness and attraction, for when the tree is in blossom humming-birds are swarming around it like bees. Sitting on a bench opposite that J [iDinniiio-IUrih. 2 2 1 luit ■Ive I was the like "ich, tree I have observed them for hours. W'lien drink- in^'^ the nectar from a flower with their long tongue, they behave just in the same manner as those butter- Hies or uuiths do whicii are to be seen in summer evenings before sonK- (lower as if fixixl in the air. The movement of the little wings is so quick that they cannot be seen, and one wonders how that little sparkling bod)- is thus susi)ended in the air. Having robbed the flower of its sweetness, they whisk away like li_L;htning to kiss another. I like them best when the) are resting on a branch, smoothing their little feathers. They are so tame antl so little afraid of man that it would be ver)- easy to catch them with a buttern)--net, which I fortunately never saw in all America, for young gentlemen there of ten or twelve years have more serious occupations than catching butterflies ! They commence already to flirt and learn to chew tobacco. The negro boys sometimes entrap tlie pocr humming-birds when they venture into the deep calix of some large flower, by stealing near and closing the entrance with their hands. I shall not describe now all the fine places near Mexico, but do so occasionall)'. The interior of Mexican houses is more agreeable and pleasing than their exterior. A staircase leads to an open gallery surrounding the )ard. It is ornamented with flowers, and the floor is coveretl with mats and provided with benches, Froni this gallery the rooms are entered. The parlours in the houses of 222 Ten Years of my Life. the richer classes are often brilliantly furnished, though not always in good taste. The jNIexicans are very fond of gilding, and they have frequently gilded tables and other furniture. In the bedrooms the bed is the only thing recommendable, for it is very large and mostly made of iron, which is necessary on account of insects ; all the other accommodations are very primitive, and the luxury of cleanliness is not much appreciated. Sheets are almost always made of cotton, and so are tablecloths and napkins, and their miserible state very frequently forms a strange contrast \vith the rir ' furniture and plate. Though the Mexicans are a lazy people, they rise early. The gc ^tlemen have their morning ride and the ladies go to church, and from there to the Alameda. That is the only occasion on which they appear in the street on foot. Returned home, they take a bath and make their toilet. The}' lunch between twelve and one. The Mexicans arc very frugal, and that is one good equality at least to praise, even in the gentlemen. They do not drink mucli, either spirits or wine or beer, though pukjue ap[)ears ever) where on the table. The)- live mostly very regularly and decentl)', but gaml)ling is the besetting sin of many of them. The men are generally rather little wwA delicate- looking, but rery well formed, with extremely small hands and feet. They are very polite and reserved and courteous, as if always on their guard against tht Mexican Ladies. 22 ■ |hcd, are Idcd the Ivery [sary being imposed upon. The)- have good reason for it; for Mexicans are not rehable. They promise readily, and are always at )'our service with words, but are not to be trusted, b'ift)' years of civil war would demoralise better nations than tiie descendants of Cortez's rapacious crew. They love monej-, and have no scruples whatever in reference to the means of getting it, and to rob the Republic as much as possible is considered more a merit than a sin. Whoever gets a high position uses it for this purpose. Though avaricious and grasping in this sense, they are some- times liberal and reckless of expense, as is usual with gamblers. In general they are very hospitable, and at their dinner-table are always laid covers for guests who may drop in. brugal as they usually are, the tal)les are loaded with everything when they give parties. The ladies are very pretty, and generally excel in the richness of their black hair, their large black and melancholy eyes, and small feet and hantls. They are ver)' graceful in their movements, but mostl)- vcr)' delicate. The)' ..larry ver)- eai'l)', some- times at fourteen or fifteen ^ears, and have generally many children. It is no rare case to see a mother with a dozen or more. The children are x'cry delicate, and a great niany die young. They are ver)- (^uiet and well-behaved ; and I never saw them romping or ciuarrelling as healthy children tlo in other countries. The mothers mostly nurse them 224 Tcii Years of my Life. themselves, and arc very fond of them, but bring them up in a very injudicious manner. They treat them like dells, and to dress them nicel)' seems their principal care. The children are very intelligent, and progress very fast, but only up to their tenth or twelfth year. After that they do not advance in their intellectual development. The family life in Me.xico is rather pleasing. Husband and wife are always se(!n together, and they live mostly at home and within the circle of their relations. Parents do not like to |)art with their daughters, and if they marr)-, it is b)- no means rare for their husbands to establish themselves in the houses of their fathers or mothers-in-law, living at their expense. The ladies are extreniely ignorant. They do not read anjthing else but their pra)er-book, and are scarcely able to write their necessary letters. They do not know an)- langi "^e but .Spanish, and of geograph}' or history the)- have no idea. That Paris was the capital of b' ranee : 'ley knew even before the arrival of the b'rench, and alxjut London they had heard also, for from these cities they re- ceived their dresses and furniture and other luxuries. Of Rome they would not knt)w anything if the Pope did not reside there, and that fact is the only thing they know. The)- are, however, fond of music and singing, and have talent for it, and also good voices. There are man)- who play the piano very Avell. Population of Mexico. 22; There is no rcfjular dinner in their houses. If hungry, they eat a simple dish or take a cup of chocolate, which is very good, l)ut much mixed with cinnamon. Coffee is grown in Mexico, and it is excellent, but they do not understand how to pre- pare it. At six o'clock the ladies drive to the promenade, and after it to the opera, where they take their young daughters dressed up to their best. If there is no opera, they pass the evening at home, and amuse themselves with plaj'ing at cards, or with music and sinirinuf. The vouncf folks come also together for a hop, or a tertulla, as such a dancing party is called in Mexico. Though there are ab '-ilf a million of negroes amouLTst the ei7 Mexican beauties, left ti;e native gentlemen very cold, to her great astonishnent and regret. Amongst the officers who commanded the Austrian and Belgian troops which were engaged in f.he cause of the Emperor Maximilian, were many noblemen of high families, and very worthy and amiable men. The position which Salm occupied made it natural that we associated much with them, though they seemed at first somewhat jealous of my husband. Th(;rc lived also in Mexico a daughter of the unfortunate Emperor Iturbide, who was called Princess Iturbide and Imperial High.iess, and I paid her a visit. As I only saw her now and then in society, and she had nothing to do with the events ha];)pening later, I need not say more of her. b'or the benefit of Prussian readers, I ma)-, however, mention that Princess Iturbide was strikingl)- like, both in exterior and manners, to Countess Haake, the ' Pallast Dame ' of her I\Iajesty the Empress of Germany. Th ■ most considerable place near Mexico is the town of Tacubaya. It is extremely old, and existed 1)efore the Chichimecas came to the plateau of Anahuac. under the Indian name of Atlacoloajan, which means, ' place where the brook makes a turn- ing.' It had once 15,000 inhal:)itants, now it lias 5,000, and in summer about 1,500 more. TIk.' huts of the Indians, with their aloe-fields, luue mostly dis- appeared, and rich Mexicans ar^d foreigners have 238 Ten Years of Diy Life. built in this, the finest s})ot of the lovely Mexican valle)-, beautiful villas with splendid i^-ardcns. It is to Mexico what CharlottenburL,'' is to Berlin, and will soon become one of its suburbs. In this place a Mr. Hube, the former Consul- General of HamburL;", had a villa, and we were intro- duced by Baron Magnus to him, his most excellent and kind wife, and her amiable family. As I became more intimate with them later, and lived with them when Salm was in the war, I shall speak of the Hube family more at length afterwards. Another considerable, very charming place, near Mexico, is San Augustin dc los Cunvas. Before the Conquest it was calk;d Tlalpam, and is connected w'ith die capital by splendid roads and canals. It is most picturesquely situated on the slope of the high mountain of Ajusco. Though it has still four thou- sand inhabitants it is not a town, and no kind of suburb like Tacubaya, but has remained a genuine village. There are to be found yet Indian home- steads as they were before the Conquest, though new streets have sprung u[) also, formed of fine villas. In this charming place the green seems fresher and greener that an)'where else. Man}- trees growing everywhere, and rocks appearing between the houses, make the interior of the place picturesque, and the neighbourhood abounds in beautiful spots. Every year, at Whitsuntide, San Augustin is crowdcnl during three or four da)-s witli Mexicans, Sn7i Auonsiin. !39 for there is held then a most celebrated fair. This fair is not renowned on account of its mercantile im- ]:)ortance, but for the q-ambling- carried on there. All Me.xicans seem to be crazy about that time, and everybod)- is seized with tlie ^-amblini;- fever. Gani- bliiiL;' houses are opened invitinj^ly, and man\- leave there considerable sums, lost at ' Monte,' the favourite card rame of the Mexicans. DuriuL,^ the rainy season many people go there for a change of air — what is called ' mudar tempera- mente.' At other times San Augustin is a quiet country place, and a visit there is a iiighly refreshing and agreeable change from the noise of the cit}'. At the end of September we arranged a great l)arty to San Augustin, consisting of seven ladies and about ten or twelve gentlemen. We were all on horseback, and two donkeys, loaded with all kinds of provision, followed us. The distance from Mexico is about three and a half leagues. W^e established ourselves at a most beautiful spot, where we break- fasted with good appetites, and having procured some Indian musicians, we had a dance on the greensward. One da)' Baron Magnus called on me requesting a confidential conversation. Mis manner was excited and mysterious, and the proposition lie made to me was indeed rather exciting and of great im[)ortancc. Me came from an audience with the Emperor Maxi- milian, whose position threatened to become alarming, 240 Ten Years of my Life. for the French were on the point of leaving the countr)'. Though the American Government liad at that time done nothing hostile to Maximilian, they had not recoo'nised him, and it was well know-ii that they were opposed to tl^e establishment of a monarchy so near their frontier. There was, how- ever, a party in the United States who did not look quite unfavourably on such a plan, for the)' thought it better for the interest of their country that order should be restored in Mexico, as its troubled state interfered not only with the security of the many American citizens living there, but also with the general mercantile transactions between the two countries. President Johnson himself Avas rather favouralily inclined in reference to the civilising mis- sion of the )oung Emperor, and it seemed therefore not impossible to turn the scale in Congress in favour of the cause of Maximilian, and to win a majority for his recognition by the United States. This would have been of the highest importance, and in- creased the chance of Maximilian's success more than the ambiguous and humiliating patronage of the French Emperor. If only the United States remained neutral it would have been much Liained, for if they declared theniselves jjositively against the Emperor his downfall would have been htin whole figure, shape, arms, and even her dishevelled l.ajr, are to he seen with wonderful dis- tinctness. On our arrival in Pu''bla f fell ill, and the uncer- tainty in reference to our future made me still more so. Everybody was seized, as it were, by a moral panic. Reports of the most contradictory character, but all distressing, were circulated, and the desire to leave Mexico and go to Europe became general. Nobody knew what the Emperor intended to do, but the French and also the Austrians asserted that he would still abdicate and return to Europe also. An Indian Doctor. ^Di When the Belgians and Colonel van tier Smissen left us for Vera Cruz, Sahn was also taken with the prevailing fever ; and to come to a decision he went to Mexico, and after having spoken to Baron Magnus he called on the i8th on Father Fischer and gave in his resignation, which, however, was refused. Meanwhile I remained ill at Puebla, in a very fine buildinsj- — I believe the Town Hall — which General Bazaine had changed into a private hotel or casino, where higher officers passing the city found better and cheaper accommodation than at the hotels. I owed a good room in that house to the kindness of General Douay, I was indeed very ill with diphtheria, and sent for an Indian doctor who liad been recommended to me. His cure was effective but disagreeable, for he gave me nothing but emetics. Salm returned to Puebla, but still hoping to retain some of the Belgian and Austrian troops for his regiment he went to Vera Cruz, where he found, however, that Van der Smissen and his men had left. When my husband returned I was better, and we rcsoK'ed to go to Mexico, where Ave arrived on the 25th, and alighted at the Hotel Iturbide. We saw of course Baron Magnus, and were frequentl)' in Tacubaj'a, at Hube's, who gave very fine parties. Salm, however, was much dissatisfied, for he had 'othing particular to C^o. and wanted em[)lo)ment. He called everyday on Father P'ischer, who was now 254 Ten \ 'cars of my Life. in the confidence of the l'^in[)er{jr ; the [)riest was ^•ery liberal with promises, but would or could not keep them, or wanted only to gain time until the French should have left Mexico. This happy day at last came ; it was the 5th of February. All Mexico was in a fev^cr of excitement — a kind of sullen, inward excitement ; for tliere were no cries of farewell or otherwise to be heard, except by some Frcmch people who wa'.'ed their handker- chiefs, w^hilst the French soldiers cried, ' A Berlin, a Berlin ! ' Salm and I witnessed this departure from a balcony of the Hotel Iturbide. When th(; hated and despised allies had left the cit}-, it was as if a nii^htmarc were taken from the brt;ast of (;ver)-on(,' ; and if the people did not rejoice too lo'.idl)', it was because they could not realise yet tlieir ha])piness, and still feared Bazaine and his insolent soldiers mi^ht return. Madame IJazaine, who was in a far acK'anced interesting state, made the journey in a splentli " palanquin, built for tile purpose, which was rarricd l)y Indians and under a strong escort to Vera C--' ' We heard for some tliiys absoluteh^ - .thing positi\"e aliout the plans of the l'!!mpcror, uinil on the 12th of I'eljruar}- the report ran through Mexico tl' .t lie v,ould place himself at the head of the ami)- and join Miramon in Ouc;retaro, in order to hinder the enemy from concentrating his troops and marching against Mexico. This report was true, and the Salin steals away >55 Emperor was to march next morniiiLf, leavinj^ all German troops and officers behind, as Marquez and the other Mexicans liad persuaded ]Maximilian to rely entirely and solely on his new subjects. Salm was beside himself when he he ird tlial he should be left behind. It was an idea he could not realise, that there slioiild at last be serious fii'-litincr and he idling- away his time in Mexico. lie ran at oiicc to Baron Magnus, and ])rcvailed upon him to take son:e steps with the F,mperor in order to pro- cure for my husband permission to accompany the army. Magnus's endeavours were, however, in vain, but lie found soiue otlier means to satisfy the pug- nacious longings of my impetuous b'elix. It was arranged Avith General Don Santiago \'idaurri, a highly respectable and most influential man, that he should enter his staff, the Secretar}- of War ]K>rmitting. This permission was granted, and Salm jumi)ed nearly out of his sliaiy in Mixico, ivc.,' by l\lix Salin-Salm, General, iSic. 2 VI '1«. London : Richard Hcniley. iS68. VOL. I. S 25« Ten Years of tuy Life. was all friendly wrinkles, lie had cut off his beard, which L;enerall)' concealed the scar from a shot in his face, and he did not look the better for it. He spoke, however, of the Prince in the highest terms, said that he was one of the bravest officers in Qucretaro.and that he had very recently distin^^uished himself b)- takin*^ six guns from the Liberals at the head of a handful of men. For his brave behaviour on tliis occasion he had decorated him, and he had appointed him General, the very day before he left. We went also to visit General Vidaurri, who came with Marcjuez. He confirmed what Marquez had told us about the state of affairs in the besieged city, that all was going on extremely well there, and that my husband had greatly distinguished himself. The worthy old General spoke of him with great warmth, and '^aid that he loved him like his own son. The g(jod news which Marquez brought to Mexico about the state of affairs in Querctaro gladdened all our hearts, and festivals, balls, fire- works, &c., followed each other in rapid succession in Mexico during the next two days ; whilst at the same time preparations were being made to march against Porfirio Diaz, who was advancing on Puebla. To attack him, and annihilate his army, were, said Marquez, the instructions of the Emporor. Everything was at last ready, and Marquez marched from Mexico with all the foreign troojis, leaving only a very small garrison of Mexicans in Defeat at San Lorenzo. 259 that cit)', which were not even sufficient to prevent the Liberal guerillas from comin(( within the garitas (gates), and fighting was going on all the time around Tacubaj'a. After jNIarquez and the army had left us three days, reports of a great victory reached Mexico. Porfirio I )ia/. was beaten, and his whole army dis- persed. That report, however, did not last long. On the fourth day after his absence, Marqucz, accom- panied only by twelve horsemen, returned a fugitive, twelve hours in advance of his whole army, which had been totally defeated at San Lorenzo on the Sth of April, and lost all its guns. Had Porfirio Diaz been able to follow up his victor)- fast enough to reach Mexico within two days after the return o{ our uLtcrl)- demoralised ami)-, he might have occupied that city without any diffi- culty. Me, however, only reached the neighbourhood of the capital on the third day, when the hnperial troops had recovered a little from their defeat. Marcjucz had long before lost all courage and hope, and as his fate could not be doubtful if he fell into the hands of the Liberals, he had prepared everything to go to \^era Cruz, and leave Mexico and the German troops to do what they could for themselves. I suppose \\v. was prevented from carrying out this plan by the fear of falling from the frying-pan into the fire if he left Mexico, for the road to Vera Cruz was barred by Porfirio Diaz's arm)-. s 2 26o Ten Years of my Life, The advaiicccl guard of the Liberal arm)' passed our liouse in I'acubaj'a, and I admired their line liorscs and uniforms, the greater part -- My csca|)c from 'r:iriih:iya — (Inin;^' to Mexico — Colonel I.eoii My propositions to the ( icrnian CoN^nels — Nc^jo- ti.itions — Madnne lla/ -A sad mistake rewarded by a Indict— At the licail-quartcrs of rorCirio Diaz-Mr. Hutjc my interpreter — Kcturn to Mexico— Two volleys llrcd at me— No harm done — A tlnmderstorm as a peace-maker — ISaron Ma.L,mus retains me in Mexico— What resulted from it — Confusion in Tacubaya — A kind invitation to <^o to Jericho, or elscwjicre beyond llic sea — Will not };o — Female j^eneralship a. // o?i ^. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 iV 262 Ten Years of my Life. It was natural that such a dream, llirec times re- peated, should make ine extremely uneasy, and the more so as I am a believer in dreams. I made up my mind therefore to sj^o to Mexico, and to have an interview with Baron Mai^nus and the commanders of the foreii^n troops, and trj' what 1 could do to save the Emperor and my husband, who, it s(;emed to me, were in the [greatest danger. When I told old Mr. Hube that I intended to go to Mexico, he opposed mj' jiurpose very much, and became quite excited about it. He said he would tlo all in his power to ])revent me from iloing such a rash thing. He was responsible for mc, he said ; I had been placed in his house by mj- husband, and he would notsuffer me to commit any such al)surdity. Now I had been received into his family with the utmost kindness, both Mr. Hube and his wife had treated me as their child, and I therefore felt grieved to be obliged to do anything which dis- pleased them so much. However, there are certain impulses v.hich it is impossible to resist, and against which all reasons are powerless. On this occasion I felt as if urged on by invisible hands to follow the voice of my heart. Althor.gli I feigned to be con- vinced by Mr. Hube, yet I was decided to go under any circumstances. Mr. Hube and his wife did not, however, trust me, and as he was afraid I might abscond during the night, he not only locked the gate, but took the key Dreams. 263 with him into his room. It was necessary tliere- fore to wait until the morniiij^r, wlien the stable servants came at six o'clock, and the house was open. I then stole from my rootii, accomj)aniccl by my chamber-maid, Marj^^arita, and my faithful four-let,^g^ed companion, Jimmy. However, Mr. Hube was on the look-out, and when I was just leaving; the house he came from behind a corner, stood before me with a very dark lony face, and said, ' W'c.-ll, Princess!' I onl)' answered, ' Gootl morning', Mr. llube,' and passed on towards Mexico. lie took, however, another road, and when I came; to the main road I found him there \vaitin<'; for me. ' Where are )ou s^oinn' ? ' he asked. I told him that I was ofoinij to Mexico, but without mention intr anj'thin^^ about my dreams (at which he would only have lau_<^hed), or of ni)- intention. He now com- menced aL';ain a new assault. He said that I nu'^ht be killed, or run other risks amonij^st the soldiers ; and for two mortal hours he exhausted his whole arsenal of common-sense arguments, which of course had not the sli<;^htest effect upMn me, as I had made up ni)' mind, and was finely resolved to have my way. I thanketl him for all his kindness, and all the trouble he took about me, but declared that I must and would )^(>. The d{;ar old L^entleman turned quite pale, an' did not sa)' a word more to detain me. I had to walk with my maid and Jimmy a league and a half to Chapultepcc. The whole road 264 Ten Years of my L:/e. was filled with Liberal officers and soldiers, who knew me, however, as they had seen me at Mr. I lubes, who belontjed to the Liberal party. Tlu^y therefore greeted me, and let nie [)ass unmolested. When I arrived at Chapullepec, I asked for the commandinii' officer, a Colonel Leon, who had been two years in the United States service, and spoke English tolerably wc;ll. When he was brought from a restaurant, where he took his brc^akfast, he received me with extreme jjoliteness. I told him diat I was in great anxiety about my husband and the l-lmperor, and that I longed very much to do something to save them. i'Or this [)urpose I wanted to go to Mexico, to speak to the commanders of the foreign troops, and to ascertain whether they would surrender if General Porfirio Diaz wouUl enLraire himself to secure life and liberty to the Emperor a ul his officers if they should fall into the hanils of tlie Liberals. The Colonel told me that Oueretaro could not hold out much longer. The cit)- was very closely besieged, and the garrison already starving. He would permit me to pass through his out- posts, and I promised to return as .'^oon as I had heard the opinion of the foreign colonels. He gave me his arm, and went with me about three-quarters of a league to th(i outjjosts, Margarita and Jimmy following. In order that our men might not think that I was stealing into the cit}', I went right across the open field towards the garita, which was defended The German Colonels. ^65 by a batter}'. The officers comniandinii^ these re- cojj^nisecl mc, and I had no difficulties. The soldiers very politely laid boards across the ditch, and helped m(; over the rampart of the battery. I went directl)' to the house; of the Prussian minister, Baron von MaL^nus, whom I found at home. He received me with a little for^'ialit)' and coldness, for he had, I do not know for what reasons, a prc- juelice aj^ainst Ilube, ami was not at all pleased that I had taken up ni\' residence with that family. Takin!^^ however, not much notice; of his diplomatic stiffiiess, I told him wli)' I had come to Mexico, and that I wanted to sec; Colonel Kodolitsch and Count Khevenhiiller, of whom Colcjnel Leon had spoken in the hi_<,diest t(;rms, because the\' had fou^rht so bravely at San Lorenzo, and promised, on his word of honour, that if they would come out for a conversation, he would let them return to the city, whatever mi^ht be the result. Haron Mai^fnus chanjj^ed his manner at once when he heard my plan, and how I was proceedint,^ to carry it out. He liked my idea verj- much, but of course wanted to direct my mo\i'ments, and was very sanguine of a satisfactory result if I would be i^uided by him. He ordered his carriat^e, and I drove to the (piarters of Colonel Kodolitsch, who was not at home, but whom I found with Count Khevenhiiller. Colonel Kodolitsch was willing to go out and 266 Ten Years of my Life. talk with Colonel Leon, but only under the condition that Baron IMairnus had nothin!"' to do with the whole affair, 'as the Baron was rath(,'r inclined to act as he pleased, and to appropriate the merit to himself which was due to others.' I told him that I had already made an enj^agement with the minister, and I could not drop him now. Tlie colonels then promised to speak as soon as possible to their officers and men, and let we. know the result. Baron Ma,<^nus then went with me t(j Ma- lame Macholo- witsch, the Mexican wife of an Austrian officer, where I stayed that nio^ht. Next mornini; I saw the two colonels. Count Khevenhiiller was for surrender. It was clear, he said, that General Marqiicz had acted treacherously with regard to the l-lmijeror, and though he was read)^ to give a hundred lives for iiis sovereign, he did not want to sacrifice himself or liis men for Marquez. Kodolitsch, however, was of the opinion that it was not desirable to treat about surrender, without having first heard reliable news from Queretaro, and ascertained the will of the Emperor. Though he was willing to hear what contlitions the enemy might be ready to grant, he could not me(;t Colonel Leon, as Marquez, who must have some suspicion, had issued an order that morning threatening to shoot any officer or soldier who should communicate with the enemy in any manner. V' Madame Jiaz, 267 itum the )act isclf had and hen heir aron lolo- icer, I then requested them to j^ive me a written aiitliorisation to treat in the name of the forei^m officers and solcHers ; Init they tliouij^ht this also too dangerous, and wanted me to go on my own account and to make two projjositions to Porfirio Diaz. The fu'st was, that lie should permit me, or another per- son, to travel to Oueretaro to inform the I'Lmperor of the true state of affairs in ]\I(;xico, and to know his will, for which purjiose an armistice should be made for seven days. If tlu: I.ih(;ral General would ncjt consent to this, I should, under the circumstances, offer him the; surrender of all foreign troops, under the condition that Porfirio Diaz woultl Lfive in writing his word of honour that he would guarantee the life of the ICmperor and the foreign troops, if they should become prisoners. It seemed to nu; absurd to go to Porfirio Diaz without any proof that I was reall)- deinited by the foreign troops. I therefore requested Paron Magnus to give me at least a few lines. This he declined also to do, Init tokl me that he knew another way which would answer the purpose just as well. There lived, Ik; said, in Mexico, a Madame Paz, whose husband was a Liberal General on the staff of Porfirio Diaz, and who, if the city should be taken, would become its governor. This lady was always in communication with the enemy, and acted in fact as their spy. She might be used in this affair, and !68 Tot Years of my Life. inform her husband that I should come as the deputy of the minister and tlie colonels. Baron Magnus and I drove to Madame Baz, and took with us I\Ir. Scholler, the chancellor of the mJnister, who spoke Spanish perfectly well, and could explain everythinL,^ to that lady without creatine^ mis- takes and misunderstandinL,rs. Madame Haz was a very clever woman, and fre- quently used to carr)' on difficult neii^otiations. At the time when the French were still in Mexico, she was frequently in the camp of the enemy in all kinds of dis- own will. They mi^dit shoot me, or put me in irons, but they should not compel me to leave the country. My resolution embarrassed them very much, and they were at a loss v/hat to do ; but I stayed from si.K o'clock r.M. to twelve o'clock at head-cpiarters, waiting to see the General. At last I was lodged in a private house with a Mexican family, who were 78 Ten Years of my Life. very kiml, but a sentinel was placed before my door. On April 2u, in the morning, ni)' carrla<,^e came at>ain, and the officer who was to escort nu: insisted on ni)' leaving. I did not, however, stir, but sent m)- compliments to General Porfirio Diaz, requesting him to suffer me to go to Oueretaro. \o this, how- ever, he sent mc a refusal, and I remained resolutely where I was. In the afternoon came Madame Hubewith some more clothes for me, and also General I]az, who had returned from Oueretaro, and who was a great friend of the Hubes. He was kind enough to go to the Commanding General, to incjuire what made him so severe against nie. Now we heard the reason of all this harsh pro- ceeding against me. Porlirio said that I had broken my word ; that I had tried to I^ribe his officers with money and fair words, which was a great crime ; and that I was too dangerous a person to be pe :••"■• itted to remain in Mexico. General Baz arranged affairs, however, and wrung from Porfirio Diaz permission for me to go to Queretaro to Escobedo, but he would not give me an escort. Escobedo might do with me as he liked, either permit me to enter Oueretaro or send me far- ther on. General Baz was a very agreeable man, who looked and behaved more like a P^'enchman than a Take leave of Madame I lube. 279 Mexican. Though very friendly, his manner was dignified ; and he was equally liked by both parties. He was extremely kind to me, and prepared every- thing to facilitate my journey to Oueretaro. He gave me thirty-sc:ven letters of recommendation to owners of haciendas, post-masters, hotel-keepers, and officers. :\Ir. Smith, a merchant, and director or superintendent of the railroad, gave me four very good mules and his coachman, and I got also a very bright )e1low superannuated fiaere from Tacu- ba)a. The road between Mexico and Oueretaro was much infested by robbers, and ^he journey, which reciuired about four da>s, was rather hazardous. However, my good fortune assisted me. A gentle- man belonging to the Liberal party, Mr. Para, who had travelled three da)s in order to speak with Por- firio Diaz without success, and who was tra\elhng home, volunteered to escort me, and I accepted this offer with the more pleasure as he had with him a mounted armed servant and a coachman. Porfino Diaz had nothing to say against his going with me. With many tears I took leave of Madame Hube, and commenced my journey on April 27. 1 he whole party consisted of m\- escort, his armed ser- vant, two unarmed coachmen, my maid, and Jimmy. I had my little seven-shooter revolver and only three ' ounces ' in my pocket. 280 Ten Years of viy Life. The letters which General Baz had given me proved to be of great value. I was received every- where with the utmost kindness and hospitality, and could not have been treated better had I been a queen. In the morning before sunrise I left San Fran- cisco, and when I had gone a little way, and the sun was just rising, I saw some dark form hanging on a tree. On looking out of the carriage I discovered to my horror that it was a Liberal officer, his head and face covered by a black cap, and blood trickling down his body. With disgust I turned away my head to the other side. There I saw hanging on another tree another officer, presenting a still more ghastly spectacle. These two men were a Liberal lieutenant-colonel and a major, who had committed a crime against a young girl, and when her exas- perated father tried to revenge his child, they killed him and cut out his tongue. According to the Mexican custom, they were shot on the spot where they had committed the crime, and hung to a tree for a time as a warning example. For a long time I could not get rid of the horrible impression which this sight made on me. me 281 CHAPTER V. Arrival before Qucretaro— Visit to llscobedo's head-quarters— One who had 'known me intimately '—J omncy to San Luis Potosi— Lieut.-Coloncl Aspuxv — An audience with President Juarez— M. Iglesia— The fall of Qucretaro — The Emperor and my hus- band prisoners— Journey to (Uieretaro- San Teresita -My first interview with the ICmperor— llis prison — I arrange a meeting between the Emperor and General ICscobedo-What happened in the Hacienda de Hercules— (Jcieral Refugio Cionzales a Marplot— The convent of the Cai)uchins— The Emperor forced to remain in a grave vault — Colonel \'illanueva. WiiKX I arrived on the height of the Cuesta China I could overlook the whole of Oueretaro ; and from that city they had also noticed my bright yellow carriaoe-and-four and escort, and took me for Juarez, as I was afterwards told. Little as I understand about military art, it seemed to me most injudicious to make a place like Queretaro as it were the keystone of the whole war. The town is surrounded by hills, which are most favourable to the establishment of batteries, and whence every street and every house can be seen. It is a regular mousetrap. As I drove down the hill to the Hacienda de Hercules, which belonged to M. Rubio, to whom 28: Ten Years of viy Life, one of General Baz's letters was addressed, I every moment expected that I should be fired at by the guns from the city, for I was everywhere within range. The head-cjuarters of General I'^scobedo were on th<-' other side f)f the Rio P)lanca, on the slope of a hill called La Cantera. As I had a letter for him, and was anxious to see him, I dressed at once to go there on horseback. I procured a horse, but as there was no lady's saddle to be had, I had to ride on a common wooden Mexican satldle, though lady fashion, which was bv no means agreeable. The gentleman who accom[uinied me from Mexico had gone before me to head-quarters, and announced my arrival. He had been made as it were responsible for me, for I was a kind of prisoner. Wh.en I stopped and sent in ni)- name to the Genei'al, a joung fair-haired captain came from among a group of officers standing about, and ad- dressed mc as an old acc^uaintancc from the United States, thousjh I did not remember his face. This was a Captain Enking, who had servetl in the Ger- man division in the United States ami}', and who had once escorted me when I visited General Blenker's camp. This person had, as I was informed afterwards, boasted that ' he knew me intimately,' though, as I said before, I did not even remember his face. He behaved on a later occasion in the most contemptible manner, and seemed to be held in very little esteem by his own comrades and by the General Escobcdo. 283 General himself ; for wIkmi he offered himself as in- terpreter Escobetlo ck'clinetl his services, and sent for a Mexican officer, who sjjoke luiglish very well. This captain had been put under arrest by Escobedo, as at the capture of Queretaro he with his men plun- dered private houses, and a])propriated private pro- perty to himself. When on one occasion I requested Escobedo to give me an officer to escort me to my house, he sent for this captain ; but I refused him with great indigna- tion, and the ca[)tain retired in ct^nfusion. Escobedo had sent for this man on purpose to shame him. General Escobedo received me at onc(; in a very small and most miserable tent, propped up with sticks, furnished merely with a tal)le made of raw boards, and some wooden chests as a seat. The General wore a imiform similar to that of Porfirio Diaz, only with rather more lace and brass buttons. He received me very kindly, and I told him I had heard that my luisband was wounded, and requested his permission to go into the city. The General said he did not believe that my husband was wounded, and that he could not give me the required permission. All he could do was to give me a letter to President Juarez in San Luis Potosi, who perhaps might grant me what I wished. He saiil he knew ijiy husband very well, and complimented me very much about him, observing that he was an extremely brave officer, as he had experienced to his great damage. 284 Ten Years of uiy Life. He promised to treat him kindly if he should ever fall into his hands, and that if he were wounded I should be permitted to nurse him. The General left it to me whether I would remain at M. Rubio's until the next diligence, or whether I would go with that which was to start next morning. After reflecting that my staying before Oueretaro was of no use, I desired to go next morning to San Luis Potosi. The diligence started some leagues from Qucre- taro. When I arrived at its place of starting before three o'clock in the morning, I met there Lieut.- Colonel Aspirez, who told me that he had been ordered by General Escobedo to escort me to San Luis Potosi and to the President. He had already taken tickets for myself and maid, and we started about three o'clock A.M. After a journey of three days we arrived In San Luis Potosi, and I delivered my letter from General Baz to the military governor of that place, by whom I was quartered in beautiful rooms in a house that belonged to one of the Imperialist party. With Lleut.-Colonel Aspirez I then went to see the President. When I came to his palace I was received by one of his aide-de-camps, who led me by the hand, as if he was leading me to a country-dance, to a large reception-room. There the aide-de-camp made a tremendous bow, and left me with Aspirez. After a little while President Juarez entered, ac- Audience xoith Presidoit yuarcz. ^^5 ever led I rnin<>-. companied by I\I. lijlesia, one of his ministers, who spoke I"!ntrlish perfectly well. Juarez was a man a litth; under the middle size, with a very dark-complexioned Indian face, which was not disfigured, but, on the contraty. made more intercstinj^, by a very large scar across it. He hatl very black piercing- eyes, and gave one the imj)res- sion of being a man who reflects much, and delibe- rates long and carefully before acting. He wore high English collars and a black neck-tie, and was dressed in black broadcloth, The President gave me his hand, led me to the sofa, on which Jimmy had already established him- self, and said he would listen to what I had to say. M. Iglesia, who acted as interpreter, looked more like a dark-haired German with spectacles than a Mexican. He was in appearance and manners a thorough gentleman, who showed much sympathy in his benevolent face. I told M. Juarez all that had happened in Mexico, and what I intended to do in order to bring the horrible bloodshed to an end, and requested him to permit me to go to Oueretaro. The President said that he had not received any details from General Porfirio Diaz, but he supposed that I must have done something very dangerous as I had been ordered so suddenly to leave the country. He could not give me an answer until he was better informed. If I would return with Lieut.-Colonel 286 'J\n Years of ))iy Life, Aspircz to ]\T. Rubio, ;\iul wait there for his answer, I was at liberty to do so, or to remain in San Luis. I told him that I would reflect on it, ami q;ive him an answer next morning'. The President yave mc his arm, and accompanied me throucjh all the rooms to the head of tlu; staircase, where he dismissed mc with a low bow. As I coukl not get permission to enter Oueretaro, 1 thouj^ht it better to remain near thc^ President, where I should hear alwaj's the fresliest nc^ws, and be on the spot t(j act accord in_t;ly. When, however, Lieut. -Colonel Aspire/c had left, and the day approached when the dilit^cMice was to start aij^ain, I chani^^ed m)- mind, and resolved to return to I\L Rubio. Accordiny^l)-, I went aii^iin to the Pre- sident and told him so, but he desired mc to remain at San Luis, as Oueretaro must fall in a few days, I remained here therefore as was required, but heard no news until the loth of ALay, when the ring'ing of all the bells and the firing of guns announced some o-reat event. The next morning a gentleman called upon me, who told me that Oueretaro had been sold to the Liberals for three thousand ' ounces,' by a certain Colonel Lopez and a man from San Luis, Jablowski ; that the Emperor was a prisoner, and my husband wounded. Of course this news distressed me very much, and I immediately went to the President to obtain his permission to go to Oueretaro. He was, GoinQ to the Prison. >87 however, at a (linner-|)arty, and I was not able to see him. Under these; circumstances I thoiiL,dit it best to travel without his permission. This I did, and I arrived without any accident at Oueretaro on tlie 19th of May, four days after the fall of that cit\'. I alis^ditc'd at the lloti.'l de Dilit^encias, wh( re m)- husband was well known. It was between six and seven o'clock in tlie evenini;-, and too late to see General Ivscobedo, who had his quarters in the Hacienda de Hercules, which is at some distance from Oueretaro. As T could not £jet a carriaij^e ne.vt morn in:.;. I was obli<,'ed to ^o on horseback. A lady's saddle was not to be had, and as some colonel's horse was just saddled at the door and offered to me, I rode on it to the General's head-quarters, followed by an Indian servant. The General received me very kindl}-, shook hands with me, and said that he was Had to see me. I asked him to give me an order to see my husband and the Emperor. He sent at once for Colonel Villanueva of his staff", and requested him to accompany me to the prison. Before going to the prison, I went to the hotel to change my riding-habit for another dress, and then went with the colonel to the Convent San Teresita. We reached the convent between ten and eleven o'clock A.M., crossed a yard, and went up a very dirty and extremely bad-smelling staircase. This 288 Ten Years of my Life. and the noise everywhere in the house made me quite dizzy. \\Q. now entered a small dirty room, where several officers were l>ing about on ' cocos ' on the floor, all looking- very neglected. On asking for my husband, a polite little gentleman, M. Blasio, in- formed me the Prince was with the Emperor, and would return directly. He had scarcely said so when m)' husband came. He was not shaved, wore a collar several days old, and looked altogether as if he had emerged from a dustbin, though not worse than the rest of his comrades. To see him again under these circumstances affected me very much, and I wept and almost fainted when he held me in his arms. My husband now left me to inform the Emperor of my arrival, who told him that he should be pleased to see me. The Emperor had suffered before the surrender very much from dysentery, and was sick in bed, but in such circumstances all the ceremonies which make social life uncomfortable are at an end. Salm cautioned me not to speak of the death of General Mendez, who had been shot a few hours ago. T shall never forget this first interview with the Emperor, with whom I had never yet spoken. The Empress had left Mexico several months before my arrival, and ladies were not received at Court. How our meeting at Chapultepec was prevented I have said before. Anxiety about the Emperor. 289 I found him in a miserable bare room, in bed, looking very sick and pale. He received me with the utmost kindness, kissed my hand, and pressed it in his, and told me how glad he was that I had come. As he had not heard yet anything reliable of Marquer and Mexico, he was highly interested with everything I told him, and very indignant at the be- haviour of Marquez, who assumed rights and an air of command which could not be allowed to any sub- ject. He distributed decorations and tides as if he had been the Emperor himself. I mentioned my negotiations with Porfirio Diaz and the colonels in Mexico, and my visit in San Luis Potosi, as also my interview with Juarez, which all interested the Emperor very much. Looking around, and considering the bad state of health of the Emperor, I was very anxious that he should soon get out of that disagreeable position, and asked him wliether he had yet done anything in this respect. Escobedo had paid him a visit, but nothing had been said about the intentions of the Liberals. I proposed to speak with iLscobedo in the name of the Emperor, and to try whether I could not bring him to reasonable terms. I would induce him to come and see his Majesty, or, if the latter was well enough to go out, to receive him at some other place. The first thing, however, was to make the Emperor and my husband a little more comfortable, and VOL. I. u 290 Ten Years cf my Life. especially to buy some fresh Hikmi for them, which they greatly wanted and missed very much. On going at once to see Escobedo, I found him in a very good humour, as he expected the arrival ot his sisters, whom he had not seen for several years. He said that he could not go out tliat day, but that the Emperor would be welcome if he would come and see him, accompanied by myself and my husband. Whilst Colonel Villanueva went to procure a carriage I went out to purchase some linen, and when that was done we returned to San Teresita. The Emperor having got out of bed, and giving me his arm, my husband also following with Colonel Villanueva, we went down the staircase into the street, where we found the handsome carriage of M. Rubio and an escort of four men. On our way down the prisoners had come out to see the Emperor, and all greeted him with much love and respect. Had the Emperor had a correct idea of the danger of his position, which then and much later was by no means the case, he would perhaps have thought sooner of escape, and not missed so many very favourable opportunities which were offered him. I am sure, liad we emplo}'ed money, tlie lMni)eror might have escaped wliilst on this drive to the Haci- enda di; Hercules, and the whole escort would have gone with him. He was, however, very far from thinking his life in danger, though the fate of Em- San Tcrcsita. 291 peror Itiirbide might have taught him that a bare title is no protection in Mexico. Arrived at the Hacienda de Hercules we entered a laree and hne garden, with a fountain, near which were assembled a great many Liberal officers and other gendemen, who greeted the Emperor, who had me on his arm, with very low bows. General Escobedo advanced, and offered his hand to the Emperor. We went then to the right, in a w'ide walk, where seats were placed for us. We commenced the conversation about indifferent objects ; but this was rendered difficult by two bands, which made a horrible noise, drowning our voices. The Emperor told General Escobedo that he had in- structed my husband to make some propositions in his name, and he and Colonel Villanueva retired to arrange that business.^ We remained until nearly dark at the head- quarters of Escobedo, who offered me some refresh- ments, which were, however, declined; and we returned to San Teresita as we had come. The Emperor was much de[)ressed, which was owing to his Aveak state of health. I remember that day always with emotion, and that I was the last lady the I'-mpcM-or had on his arm. All niuht lono- there was a most disagr(;eable ''My Diary in Mexico,' vS;c., by Felix S.ilm-Salm. Riclu.rd kntk lev, London. 186S. \'ol. i. ]'. U 2 292 Tai Years of my Life. noise in San Teresita, which prevented him from sleeping, and he was very desirous to have a separate house for himself and his household officers. I was anxious to satisfy the wish of the Emperor, and drove again to Escobedo, who most readily acceded to it, and procured next morning a very handsomely- furnished house for that purpose. One half of it was intended for the Emperor, the other half for the use of the imprisoned Generals. These good intentions of Escobedo were, how- ever, not carried out, for General Refugio Gonzales, formerly a robber, who was charged with the guard over the prisoners, reproached the General for wanting to treat Maximilian as a prince ; that this was against the instructions of the Government, and that he would not be responsible for the security of the prisoners if they were placed in a private house. Escobedo became probably somewhat alarmed, and the more so as he had the most convincing proof that his Government was resolved to use the utmost severity towards his prisoners. He therefore left it to Refugio Gonzales to provide other quarters for the Emperor and the Generals, and they were trans- ferred to the convent of the Capuchins. The Emperor wished me to accompany him on tlie way thither, and Colonel X'illanueva went to M. Rubio to request the loan of his carriage, which lu: got at last, after waiting two hours for it. When the Emperor arrived at the C;q)uchins, Laiv Procccdino'S. 293 and was shown his room, he stopped on the threshold, sayino, ' Certainly that cannot be my room; why, this is a vault for the dead. Indeed, this is a bad omen.' Villanueva excused himself as well as he could, and went to speak to Refugio Gonzales, but that man said, ' Yes, that is his room, and he must sleep here, at least this night, in order to remind him that his time is at hand.' It was indeed the pantheon, or bnrial-place of the convent ; and it is an everlasting shame to the Mexican Government that they could permit this cruelty to their distinguished prisoner. I was indig- :i:xnt, and so was Colonel Villanueva. Escobedo was informed of this proceeding, and the next day another room was provided, from which the Emperor could walk into a litde yard. Three days later the law proceedings against the Emperor commenced, and he was placed in solitary confinement. Colonel Villanueva said to me on the first day, ' The thing is drawing now to a close nothing can save the Emperor but escape.' 294 Ten Years of my Life. CHAPTER VI. Sry plans to save the Emperor— What Consul llahnscn ihous^ht ot them — Visit to the Emperor at midnii^ht— A letter to Juarez — Politeness of Escobedo— Preparin;^' to go to San Luis— Consul 15ahnscn's fear justified— His sleeping partner — Another audience with Juarez— My pleading for delay— Mr. Iglesia on my side- Victory — Return to Oueretaro — A wide-awake partner of Mr. Bahnscn — A fearful journey— How I looked— Scene of my arrival in Maximilian's prison described by another eye-witness. I RETURNED liomc vcry much deprcssetl ; and when I saw Mr. Bahnsen, who had arrived front San Luis and whose face exhibited a vcry higubrious expression, my spirits did not improve. All that night I did not sleep, but revolved in my mind incessantly the question, ' What can be done to save the Hmperor?' I reflected all the follow! nc,'' day, and when Colonel Villanucva and Mr. Bahnsen called towards evening, I had found what I wanted, and asked them, ' Who will go to San Luis to ask fuarez for time ? ' Mr. Bahnsen shrugged his shoulders, and said, 'Nobody Avill go. Ask for time! It is quite useless. You do not know Juarez ; I know him well. That idea is not to be thought of.' Visit the Emperor at Midnig'/it. 295 •Well, Colonel,' I said, 'I cannot ask you;' but I, a woman, will go ! ' 'You!' said Mr. Bahnscn, with a sarcastic laugh, But all his doubts and ridicule did not inlkience me in the least. 1 then asked the Colonel, ' Will }-ou accompany me to Aspirez, and ask him for permission to sec the Emperor this night ? ' The Colonel was willing. Aspirez, my travelling companion on my first journey to San Luis, was now ' fiscal/and had the Emperor under his especial charge. It was past eleven o'clock r.M. when we arrived at Aspirez's lodging, and he was already in bed ; but Colonel Villanueva awoke him. I told the astonished officer that I wished to go again to San Luis, and that I requested his permission to consult first with the Emperor, in the presence of Colonel Villanueva, which was readily and kindly given. It was past midnight when Ave arrived at the Capuchins. My husband was asleep. He imme- diately dressed, but was quite frightened at my sudden appearance in the middle of the night, imagining that some bad news had brought me there. When, however, he heard my plan he declared it to l^e excellent, and went up with me to the room of the Empet- jr, who since his separation from the other prisoners had seen nobody except his doctor. The Emperor thanked me very much, and approved also of my idea. Villanueva advised him to write a letter to Juarez, and request two weeks' time igS Ten Years of viy Life, to prepare his defence, and to consult with lawyers from Mexico, The Emperor consented, and signed a letter which was written by Villanueva at his request. This letter I was instructed to give into the hands of Juarez himself, and if I could not do so not to part with it at all. As I wished to start on my journey immediately, I said good night to the poor Emperor, who had tears in his eyes. I was very much affected, for it appeared to me as if I had now seen his face for the last time. As I had promised to give the letter into Juarez's own hands, and was afraid that difficulties might be laid in the way of my seeing him, I thought it expedient to procure from Escobedo a letter of authorization to the President. It was past one o'clock when I went with Villanueva and my maid to Escobedo's quarters. The General was just returning with Colonel Doria from some place of amusement, and I found him fortunately in very good humour. He gave me not only a letter to Juarez, but also granted my request for an order to take the mules of the dili- gence, with which I returned to my hotel to prepare for the journey, for which Mr. Bahnsen had promised to lend me his light carriasfe. This order of Escobedo was indeed quite an astonishing thing, for by it tl^e communication between Oueretaro and San Luis was stopped for at least twelve hours for the public. Arrived at the hotel I found Mr. Bahnsen, who A Sleepy Companion. 297 retracted his promise. He was afraid his carriage would be broken to pieces ; he called my idea a woman's whim, and said that the whole thing was foolish and useless. I was in des[)air, and tried my best to get the carriage from Mr. Bahnsen, in which I succeeded after a great deal of trouble, and under the condition that one of his partners, a Mexican, should accompany me. It was already five o'clock in the morning when we started with two drivers, as usual, and five mules. These animals were used to drag the heavy diligence, and havinfj such a liy-ht load behind them thev became quite unmanageable, and after we had proceeded only a few leagues they succeeded in runninir against a stone fence and breaking the pole, thus fulfilling the fears of Mr. Bahnsen. My Mexican companion was in despair, and after much ado and useless lamentations, the pole was tied up, and we arrived at San Michael, where I thought it better to leave Mr. Bahnsen's light concern behind and to take the diligence. Thus we travelled as fast as 2)ossible all day, and arrived without any further accident at a hacienda half-waj- to San Luis. It was now midnight. I wanted to go on imme- diately, but the straw man whom Mr. Bahnsen had given me as an escort declared that he was tired, that he required sleep, that the road was infested with robbers ; in short, that he would not go any farther that night. igS Ten Years of viy Life. 1 had at last to t^ivc way, Init only on condition that we should start ai^ain at three o'clock. I was up at that time, and coachmen and mules were ready, but my sleepy escort was not to be seen, and all our thundering; against his door was in vain. I had already made up my mind to leave hini to his slumbers and to travel alone, when he appeared at six o'clock, nicely dressed with kid gloves, and ordering his cup of chocolate. I was exceedingly angry, and expressed my opinion of him pretty freely. Between six and seven o'clock r.M. we arrived at San Luis, and put up at Mr. Bahnsen's house, where his sisters received me with the utmost kind- ness. I had continually before my mind that melan- choly face of the august mart)'r in Oueretaro, which looked up so thankfully to mine from his sick-bed when I departed, and was urged by the fear that every minute's delay might cost him his life ; I therefore did not care for my toilet, but hastened at once to the residence of Juarez. At that moment he had a Cabinet meeting, and could not receive me. He requested, however, that I would send in the letter of the Emperor, which I declined to do, as I had promised to give it into no other hands but his own. I sent him, however, the letter of Escobedo, and he appointed nine o'clock a.m. next day as t)ie hour he could receive me. The brother of Mr. Bahnsen accompanied me Mr. li^lcsia's Assistance. 299 next niornin*^ to the President, whom I found again in compaii)' with Mr. Iglesia. I le took my letter, read it, handed it to his minister, and said, • That the time for the proceecUng against MaximiHan was fixed at three days by the law, and that he, after having considered the case, regretted he could not grant the requested delaj-.' I addressed myself to Mr. Iglosia, and pleaded the Emperor's cause as well as I could. I declared that it was barbarous to shoot a prisoner without having given him even time for his defence, and to treat him as a traitor who had come '.^ the honest belief that he had been elected and called by the Mexican people. A few days more could not be of any importance to the Government, and even pru- dence dictated to the Government not to show such improper haste. They might reflect on the conse- quences, and that not only Europe, but all the civilised world would be indignant at the Mexican Government if it acted in such a hasty, cruel manner. 'Well, Mr. Juarez,' I said, 'pray reserve your decision until at least five o'clock this afternoon. Should you remain of the sanie determination, then I will return to Oueretaro, Hea\'en knows with how sad a heart' Mr. Iglesia saw me to the door, and I spoke to him what my heart prompted me to sa)'. He did not answer, but pressed my hand in a manner which seemed to promise his assistance. 300 Ten Years of my Life, When I returnctl at five o'clock he came to meet me with a happy, smilint^ face, and without sayin- in deaUno- with all Americans. The Emperor said that money was the least trouble in the affair, for Baron IVIagnus and the other ministers had assured him that it would be at his disposal to any amount. Strange ! at the tail of each word of tliese gentlemen hung a gold ounce, but not r miserable dollar at the tips of their fingers ! It is indeed excusable if I get impatient and indig- nant, for this paltry stinginess killed the Emperor. Baron Magnus had unfortunately gone to San Luis Potosi. The lawyers there had telegraphed for liim, and it was lirved that he might codk- lo some arrangement with t^- Government. The Emperor Avas much against his oing, as i told me himself in the presence of Dr. Basch, for he had still more confidence in iMaiii'nus than in an\- ..f the other ministers. I told the Emperor that without money I could do nothing, and he sent for Baron Lago, tlie \ustrian Charge d'Affaires, who liad not ventii \ear him for two daj-s. I behevethe good Baron Ijelonged to that great tribe which the}' call in Germany ' hare- foots ' — llascnfiisse. He had been of the opinion that the Emperor would not be shot, and treated my apprehensions also as the fancies of a frightened woman ; but of late he had become rather nervous, and was afraid these republican rascals would not 320 Ten Year's of my Life. only shoot the Emperor, but even the most sacred representative of his Imperial brother of Austria! The Emperor was indeed very much forsaken, and felt so ; and when I told him that the Imperial imprisoned colonels were all to be sent away, and my husband with them, and that I should have to follow them, he was very much excited, and said, ' You are the only person who has really done any- thing for me. If you go, I am utterly forsaken.' In consequence of this, it was arranged between my husband and myself that he should now show his commission as a General, which he had not done before, as it was said that all the Generals would be shot. Me was of course in no hurry for that. The day appointed for the trial of the Emperor and Miramon and Mejia nov/ arrived. It was to be held in the theatre, which was decorated for that purpose as for a festival. It was an odious idea, as it appeared to me, that the Emperor, weak and sick as he was, should be placed there as an exhibition ! When I saw him therefore the night previous to the trial, I endeavoured to persuade him not to go, but rather to take something in the morning which miglit make him appear even more sick for a -time than he really was. He did not himself like the idea of appearing in the theatre, but was afraid he might be compelled to go. I satisfied him, how- ever, in that respect, as I liad spoken before to Colonel Villanueva, who advised that mode of avoiding it. Fear of Assassination. 321 In my his lIohc cl be When I arrived at tlie Capuchins next morning at nine o'clock the prisoners were just comini^ out, and my heart beat, for I was afraitl ol sceinc^ the l:^mperor also, but he did not come. General Mira- mon looked as bri_L,dit as if he were .^^oinof to a ball, but poor INIejia looked very much depressed. My husband had written a letter to the Kmperor, which I transmitted to him, in which he implored him to lose no time by resigninc]^ himself to delusive Iiopes, but to prepare immediately for escape, for which the plan was also contained in the letter. I now told the lunperor that I had arranged everything with Colonel Villanueva, w'-ho would lead him outside the prison, where a guard of one hundred men would b(; kejJt ready to escort him to the Sierra Gorda, and from thence to the coast. Tlie Emperor insisted on ni)- following him close on horseback with Dr. Basch. He was afraid of being betrayed and assas- sinated, and thought that the presence of a lady might be a kind of protection against such an atrocious act. Villanueva had, however, declared to ine that nothing could ho. done without Palacios, who had always three guards in tlie [irison who walked all niglit before the room of the Emjieror. Ktold him so, and that I hatl mj'self engaged to win him over, but tluit I rt'cfuired money for that purpose. The Emperor now saw at last his position in its true light, and regretted that he had scpiandered so much precious time. Unfortunately he had no money, vol.. 1. Y ^ *> -^ Ten Years of my Life. but he said he would look to that, and have at least five thousand dollars in g-old, which I rc;quired to e^ive either to Palacios to distribute amoni^st the soldiers, or to i^ive it myself into their hands. When I retin-n(;d ai^ain to see the lunperor he was in despair, for lie could not procure the money which was rc(|uired to bribe the two colonels ; but he would s^ive nic; two bills, each for oiie hundred thousand dollars, sii^-ned by himself, and drawn upon the Imperial famil)- in Vienna. The fi\e thousand dollars, however, lie could not send me until nine o'clock P.M. I had not yet made an}' attempt to bril)e Palacios, and it was at^reed between myself and \'illanueva that I should leave the prison at eight o'clock I'.^r., and request Palacios to see me home, where I would detain him until ten o'clock. I did not live then in the hotel, but in a private house belonf^iuL^' to Madame Pepita \'icentis, the widow of a i^entleman of our party who di(xl during the siege. The old lady was extrcmel\- kind to our prisoners, and under- took to provitle for fifteen of them all the time. General b^chcLiarav lived in the same house. In the afternoon I had a very long conversation with the ICmperf'*. He spoke to me about his famil)' and his relations with it, how unfortu- nately he was situated, anJ what he intended to do when he came to ICurope. lie sjjoke also of his mothr-r with great love, and requested me to tell her Colonel Paia.ios. ;a.st to the so. I felt extremely sad, for I hatl a strong presenti- n.ient that I now saw him for the last time. When it was nearly eight o'clock the Emperor gave me his signet ring. If I succeeded with Palacios I was to return it as a token. Then I left with a very heavy heart and filletl witli anxiet)', for I liad before me a task of the highest importance, wliich 1 had to accomplish with very insufficient means — two hits of pai)er, of which the meaning was scarcely known to the person with whom I had to deal. Colonel Palacios was an Indian without an\' edu- cation, who could scarcely read or write- He was a brave soldier, had distinguished himself, and won the confidence of his superiors, who employed him as a kind of j)rovost-marshal, who had to superintend militar)' executions. He had a young wife, who had just given him his first child, in whom the father was entirely wrapped uj) ; and as he was poor, I hoped that his can^ for the future of that child might induce him to entertain my [)roposition. The Colonel saw me home. I invited him to the parlour. He followed, and I began to speak of the Emperor, in order to ascertain how he felt in refer- ence to him, and whether I had any chance of success. He said that he had been a great enemy of the Emperor ; but after having been so long about him, and having witnessed how good and nobly he behaved in his misfortune, and looked in his true, melancholy Y 2 324 l\-n Years of viy Life. blue c)-cs, he felt the (greatest sj-mpathy, if not love and admiration, for him. After tliis introductory conversation, which lasted about t\vent\- minutes, with a tremblintr heart I came to the point. It was a most thrillinj^ moment, on which indeed hung the life or death of a noble and good man, who was my friend and I'^mperor. I said that I had to communicate to him somethino- which was of the utmost importance to both of us ; but, before doing so, I must ask him whether he would "ivc me his word of honour as an officer and a gentleman, and swear by the head of his wife and child not to divulge to anyone what I was about to confide to him, even if he rejected m)- proposition. Pie gave me his w^ord of honour, and most solemnly swore, as I desired, by the life of his wife and his child, whom he loved beyond anydiing in this world. After that I told him I knew for certain that the Emperor would be condemned to be shot, and that he would loe shot if he did not escape. I had arranged this escape through others, and it would take place this very night if he would only consent to turn his back and close his eyes for ten minutes. Without this uodiing could be done ; we were entirely in his hands, and upon liim now depended the life of the Emperor. Urged by the necessity of the situation, I must speak i)lainl)' to him. I knew^ he was a poor man. He had a w^ifc and a child, and their future was uncertain. Now an opportunitj- Avas offered to Toul^latiou. ■^ *> ^ secure them a good conipctcnc)-. I offered liim here a cheque of the Emperor's for one hundred thousand dollars in gold, which would be paid by the Imperial family of Austria, and five thousand dollars I should receive directly for the soldiers. What I proposed to him was nothing against his honour, as in accepting ii he best served his country. The death of the Emperor would bring all the world in arms against it; but if the Emperor escaped he would leave the country, and no European Power would ever meddle with the arrangement of their affairs. I spoke a good deal more, to which he listened attentively, and I saw by the changes in his countenance that he battled hard within himself. At last he spoke. He laid his hand on his heart, and protested that he felt indeed the greatest sympadiy with Maximilian ; that he really believed it to be the best for Mexico to let him escape ; but he could not decide about such an imj)ortant step in five minutes. If he did, he could not accept the cheque. He took it, however, into his hand, and looked at it with curiosity. The Indian probably could not conceive the idea that in such a little rag of paper, with some scrawls on it, should be contained a life of plenty for his wife and child. A bag full of gold would have been more persuasive. He handed me back the cheque, observing that he could not accept it now. He would reflect upon it in the night, and tell me his decision next 3^6 Ten Years of my Life. mornint'-. 1 showctl him llu; si'nict x'wwi of Un; I'^in- pcror, told him what it meant, and requested him to accept it, and to return it to lh(; lunperor at night. He took it and put it on his fmj;er ; but after awhile lie took it off at^^ain, remarkiiii^r that he could not accept it. lie must think it all o\er. He became confused, and went on sj)eakin<^ of his honour, of his wife, and his child. ' Well, Colonel,' said I, ' j ou are not well-disposed. Reflect about it, and remember your word of honour and your oath. You know that without )-ou nothing- can be done, and to betraj- me would serve no pur- pose whatever.' Colonel \'illanueva came to see how matters went on, but without betraying that he was in the secret. Directly after him came Dr. Basch, sent by the Emperor, but without any money ; and Palacios left me about ten o'clock, not knowing whether I might hope or not, but rather inclined to hope. I told Dr. Basch I believed all would be right, but that I should not know it for certain before the morning. In reference to the two cheques which the Kmperor gave me I must mention a circumstance illustrating the character of the Austrian minister, Baron von Lago. The Emperor had desired that the two papers might be signed by the foreign ministers, especially by that of Austria, who were so free with their promises of money. Dr. Basch was entrusted with that commission. When he entered the room Mutilated Cheques, 327 and told his errand, Baron La