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THE

ARCTIC DISPATCHES

CONTAINING

AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY

OF THK

NORTH-WEST PASSAGE

By captain ROBERT MACLURE
Commanding H.M.S. Invettigator.

WITH

A NARRATIVE OF PROCEEDINGS OF H.M.8. RESOLUTE,

CAPT. KELLETT, C.B., AND THE DISPATCHES OF

CAPT. SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.B., CAPT.

INOLEFIELD, AND COMMR. PULLEN.

WITH A MAP OF THE DISCOVERIES IN THE ARCTIC RKOIOVH.

Reprinted f mm the Nautical Magazine.

LONDON:

J. D. PO'ITER, Jn, POULTRY, AND 11. KINO STREET,

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LONDON:
WALTER SPIERS, FRINTER^ GREAT PRBSCOT STREET.

CONTENT S.

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THE NORTH WEST PASSAGE

DISPATCHES OF CAPT. E. A. INOLEFIELO

DISPATCH OF LIEUT. CRESSWELL

DISPATCH OF CAPT. m'clure '(<':^,<^^f:^K^

DISPATCH OF CAPT. KELLKTT ^^i^t^i!<<-t^-e'. . . .

DISPATCH OF CAPT, SIR EDWARD BEI^HER . I^i^/S ^^^mk0i^<. . <.

DISPATCH OF CAPT. SIR EDWARD BELCHER . r.

DISPATCHES OF CAPT. PULLEN <^*!T<^. .'.•<^^^.

EXTRACT FROM SIR E. BELCHER's ORDERS

COPY OF NOTICE SENT ADRIFT IN A CASK

STATEMENT OF WILLIAM HARVEY RELATIVE TO THE LOSS OF LIEUT.

BELLOT

STATEMENT OF WILLIAM JOHNSON ON THE SAME

DAVID HOOK CORROBORATES THE STATEMENT OF JOHNSON

PRIVATE LETTER FROM CAPT. KELLETT TO JOHN BARROW ES<i

DISPATCHES OF CA1»T. M'oLURE

ABSTRACT OF METEOROLOOIl!AL JOURNAL

LETTER FROM CAPT. M'cLURE TO HIS SISTER

LETTER FROM CAPT. M'cLURE TO HIS UNCLE

LETTER FROM AN OFFICER OF THE RESOLUTE TO HIS MOTHER

ARCTIC TRAVELLERS

SIB EDW. I'ARRV ON THE FATE OP SIR J. FllANKLIN

THE LATE LIEUT. BELLOT

REWARDS OFFERED FOR THE DISCOVERY OF SIH JOHN FUANKLIN . .

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THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

At length the great geographical question of the North- West Pas-
sage is solved. At length the oft repeated attempt of above three
centuries is crowned with success. Thanks to the daring of her in-
trepid seamen, England has achieved her favourite project, and that a
passage by sea, north of America, between Davis and Behring Straits,
is actually to be made, no longer admits of doubt. It has been per-
formed by Captain M'Clure in command of the Investigator, one of
whose officers. Lieutenant Cresswell, is now in England. How many
of England's brave and hardy seamen have been successively repulsed
in this attempt ; how many have yet penetrated beyond their prede-
cessors and wrested from the barriers of eternal frost another, and yet
another, small portion of geographic lore, — have braved the perils of a
snow-clad ocean and this in spite of all the terrors of the Arctic winter

" That holds with icy grasp the Polar world "

in bonds of perpetual frost ? Let the long list of names in history's
page, from the times of Willoughby and Frobisher down to those of
Parry and Franklin, bear faithful yet painful record. At length, we
repeat, the feat is accomplished, and though all have returned and
might have justly said with Baffin " I have seen what mine eyes fain
would not have seen," when he I'eported the continuity of land at the
head of Baffin Bay, yet it has been left for M'Clure to profit by the
energy of Parry, and to give the final answer to the long agitated
question, " There is a north-west passage."

Such is the general view of the subject at the present moment.
While it is placed vividly before us in the despatches which follow, let
us glance over a few of its most remarkable points, both past and
present.

The theory of a communication by the Arctic Sea between the At-
lantic and Pacific Oceans was a favourite one of old. By England's
earliest navigators it was adopted with a degree of zeal and restless
determination purely their own. BafHcd repeatedly and foiled in their
attempts to achieve by it a passage to Cathay, from the days of Eli-
zabeth during each successive reign down to the present, they still
returned to the work. But, perha})s, at no period since its commence-
ment has it been so determinedly followed up as it has been in the
course of the present peace. No sooner had war ceased in Europe
and the fleets of England wore left to pursue the vocations of peace

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

than the spirit of entcrprize was awakened once more in the field of Arctic
Maritime Discovery. Who is he tliat cannot associate with this subject
the respected name of the late Sir John Barrow. Having himself, in
his youth, been as high as the 80°th parallel his attention was naturally
turned to the subject of the N.W. passage and probability of a polar basin,
theories which, at the time they were promulgated, were much ridiculed.

It is now thirty-five years since Sir John Barrow first recorded his
opinions on this subject in the Quarterli/ Review. We find him there
arguing against Captain Burney (who had railed with Cook) that
Behring Strait was a navigable Strait and tiot a Gulf, as Captain
Burney and many others maintained ; — that there would bo found a set
of the current to the eastward, the waters of the Pacific would bo
found to flow through the head of Baffin Bay, and down through
Davis Strait into the Atlantic, " which bay is no bay at all," said Sir
John, " but a duster of of islands, and should be expunged from the
chart J " — that a large polar basin was to be found to the northward,
in fact, that the very coast line of America formed a part of it, is there
laid d wn by him. When we reflect that all was a blank on the chart
of those days, and, as the Edinburgh Review remai'ks, might have
been occupied like the charts of the olden times with hideous grifiins
and ill shap<Hl fishes, wo think the reader will agree that the prophetic
foresight of Sir John Barrow was not a little remarkable. His energy
in following it up is well known. The failure of the first expedition
and the opinion that no opening was to bo found out of Baffin Bay
did not deter him from his purpose. The ridicule, indeed, which ho
incurred produced no effect on his firm mind ; neither was his convic-
tion, founded on a solid basis of reasoning, to bo shaken by the failuix>.
No opening might have caught tho eye of the voyager, no more than
it did that of Baffin, nevertheless, said Sir John, there must bo one,
and Lord Melville, ralying on his judgment, dispatched Sir Edward
Parry the following year to find it.

How Sir Edward sailed through Lancaster Soimd, and took his ships
into Winter Harbour of Melville Island, all the world knows ; and
this was half way to the Pacific Ocean. It has fallen to M'Clure to
accomplish tho other half; after numeroun struggles in tho wrong
road ho has hit the right one, and claims (he honour for the British
Navy of having discovered tho North- West PasHago.

Although Mercy Bay, on tho northern shore of Bankn Island, (called
Banks Land originally by Parry,) is yet some seventy miles fi(tm the
nearest part of Molvllle Island, tho North- West Passage may virtually
1)0 Haid to Im) completed, aH Banki* Strait, which nopnrates (li(>ni, in
navigable, but for ice. And it is roinarkablo that Parry was about a
fortnight in rtiaching Mclvillo Islan«l from Baffin Bay, whih^ M'C*lure
was about three weeks n^aching Banks Island fioin the wctnt.

The correct view which waH taken of the subject by tliost* who
framed the instructions to Sir «)ohn Franklin, is also remarkable. Ho
wan advised to take tho iirst favourable op(<u!ng aft(>r piMMing Capo
Walker to tho MOuth-west. Had he Imhui able to do mo, (for all in
uncertain in ice navigation,) (he strait found by M'Clure would have

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

led hitn on to Behring Strait. Failing to get to the south-west, which
must have been the [case, it was left to him to take the Wellington
Channel. Opinions appear to preponderate in favour of Sir John
Franklin having taken his course to the west from the head of this chan-
nel ; a course which if he has adopted must be fatal to him, in spite of
the advocates of a Polynia. Were it not that he left no account of such
intention on Boechey Island, and, above all, for certain reports about
the vestiges of gardens being found there, we might subscribe to that
opinion. But wintering, as he did, at the entrance of it, and with our
knowledge of the seadiacovered by Penny, (although Sir Edward Belcher
says he saw more than he should have seen,) wo cannot think that Sir
John Franklin took that course, from his not having loft any notice of his
intention at Beechey Island — a place of all others, where, knowing ho
had passed one winter, we had a right to expect it. Wo say he passed
one winter — who can say he did not do more than that, when vestiges
of gardens an; reported, in the early dispatches, to have been found,
tilings which require a summer's sun, and time to attend to them.
Tliat some sad catastrophe has befallen Franklin's expedition, wo ai*u
justified in concluding by the length of time which has elapsed since it
sailed. Who can say that his ships were not driven on shore, as the
North Star has been, by the ice. Erebus and Terror Bay, formed by
Beechey Island, is not that sheltered place, according to Captain Ingle-
field, that it was supposed to be. If the North Star lay a wholo
winter on shore, as she has done, the same might have hap|)ened to
Franklin's ships. But, alas, never was mystery \\» yet more complete
than that which hangs over them. Wo have, first, a long unaccountablo
absence ; we have then the discovery, five years after their departure,
of whore they assuredly wore, but nothing to tell us whither they
would next go ; wo have then the rumours of distress, and ill-treatment
of people by Esriuimaux ; wo have then deserted ships seen on ice —
no phantom ships wen; these ; and again from the West we have
rumours of a boat and hor crew, and suspicious looking Indians. Were
the ships those of Franklin ? Was the story of tlie distressed party
true? Was the boat ami her crew a ix'soluto party from him, (leter-
mined on iKunetratiiig to the mnilh-wesl ? We could put an endless
string of (lucHlions, but who can answer them ? All that we do know
in, that the ships were iiKSuredly at Beoehey Inland, and that nothing
was I'ound (hert? to direct our further search for them. Mystery and
miHmaiiageinent in thirt most important particular nlill luings over tliu
fato of the unforttuiato Franklin. Will Sir Edward Belcher clear it
away ? We have little hope of that. PosHlbly more may Im leai <
from Home distant EiHipiimaux, or Monie articles known to have belonged
to his party by some fortuitous eircuiuHtance coming to light. Such
may hereafter lead to tlio discovtu'y of their fate.

l^\t us, however, turn fi'om the sa«l pi<'tun; ; but not wlt!n»ut payltig
our tribute^ of h(<artfelt res|HH<t to the nu^mory of the Ki^ll<^»t Hellot.
MIh indeed was a |)orilous tmderlAking, and he, p<M>r fellow, lKH;amn
another nnirtyr in the eause of Areli(! tliHcovery. Our own personal
knowledge of him cui n^aliKe easily all the noble sentiments which

SUE NORTH-WEST PAHSAGE.

Captain Fullen has expressed ; those qualifications of the mind whicli
constituted him the officer and tlu) man, the beloved friend and faithful
companion in ontcrprizo and danger I Alas, poor Bellot ! *

But is there no one else to engage our sympathy ? What has be-
come of CoUinson ? Will Sir Edward Belcher tell us something of
him? From his expressed opinion of the icy sea to the N.W. of his
position in Northumberland Sound, wo have little hope there. And
yet to the West wo must look for him. All wo know of him at pre-
sent is, that he passed the Strait (Behring) in 1851. One summer
sufficed for M'Clure to reach Banks Island. But two summers havo
not sufficed for CoUinson — and hero is a third in which wo are still
looking for tho intelligence of his presence anywhere to reach us.
How long must wo wait for an answer ? — another and another year ?
Has ho taken the ice to tho Northward ? the report of Sir Kdward
Belclier on that subject awakens all our fears for him. But had he
bt'cn ^to the Southward why have wo not heard of him ? Again wo
must submit to susikjuso and look now for further inlelligenco from
the North, when our anxiom) inquiries will not onlv be for vestiges of
Sir John Franklin's party, but alHo is CoUinson sale ?

The reader of our collection of the Arctic dispatches is referred to the
little chart from the hand of our first of geographers Arrownniith. It
will place him in possession of tho relative situations of tho main features
of the question. With the information that Bi'hring Strait is about as far
West of Banks iMliind (Land) as tlie East side of Baffin Bay is East
of it, ho will havo a sufficiently clear conception of tho whole Arctic
Sea in ({uoslion. But there is a very remarkablo coincidence, wo will
call it, in one part of it to wliich we cannot help alluding. On tho
24th of May, 1851, an officer of Captain M'Clure's ship, Mr. Win-
niett, was at his furthest East position, and on the 23d of May, 1851,
Lieut. (Com.) Sherard Osborn, of Capt. Austin's expedition, was at his
furtiic'St West position. Tlius the two expeditions, one from tho West
and tho other from tho East, approached each otiier within about 70
miles, and that, too, only a day apart. A similar oceiincnce t(M)k
place with Pullen and M'Clure, being cIokc to each other, in 1850,
without knowing it; and another in 182(), when Ca)>t, Beeuhey'a
party and Sir John Franklin himself turn(Ml back from each other in
opposit^^ directions about lU) miles apart at the same time. These aii^
how(>ver, among the ciirioHities of the arctic regions,

Wo now pro(^<M'd with the dispatches ; and first that of Captain
Tnglefi«>ld. who brought us the rest of the intoa<sting letters which
accompany them.

* Wu Hiul liy the t'oliowhii;, which a|>|inu'K iit the Daili/ Ncwn, tliut it is
Inteiiilcd to riiiH(> a iiioiinini'nt to his iiieiiiory : —

MONIIMNNT TO THK r.ATK biKIITKNANT HkI.I.OT. liOrtl .lollll HllHHcll Utwl

llio Karl of l''ll»'«iiii'n> Imvc nMincHteil Sir Hodrrick MundiiHon to pluoc tln'ir
iinnu'N on t\w liitt ol' tlio coniiMittt'c, lor tlic |iiir|Hm(< of proiMiring tlio (>r(>rtion
of II mouiimiMit to tiui nuiniory of tli(> liit<* gallimt Kmieli (tllifcr, liintitrnant
Hrllot, mul liiivi' iMitliori/,('<l him toiuniuiMiiT lliiit tlicy uru ruHily to contribute
lilamlly (u tint luuUublu oly«ct.

TIIK N0KTIt-WE8T PASSAGE.

H.M. steam-ship Phanix, off Thurso, Oct. 4.

Sir, — I have the honour to report to you, for the information of my
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, my arrival from the Ai'ctic
regions, bringing with me tho important intelligence of the safety of
the Investigator, and tho discovery of the North- West Passage, though,
unhappily, without finding tho slightest traces of the missing expe-
dition, either by this route, or on the field of search occupied by tho
8((uadron under Sir Edward Belcher's command.

I am tho bearer of dispatches from that officer and Captain Kellett,
and Lieut. CresswoU, of tho Investigator, whom I appointed from the
North Star as supernumerary to this ship, is charged with the letters
and journals of Commander M'Ciurc.

As iiis journal is of considerable length, I will endeavour to acquaint
you with tho substaneo of it, that their lordshi|>s may thus be early
informed of the leading features of tho Investigator^ s discoveries ; but,
ere 1 enter into tlii^ matter, I deem it to be my duty to acquaint tlieir
lordsliips of the result of the exiK^dition I have the honour to conunand,
and thougli I have carried out their lordships' instructions to the letter,
and, 1 trust, to their entire satisfaction, it has not boon without great
diificulty, considerable peril to the safety of this vessel, and tho total
loss of tlic Iheudalhane trans^x^rt, without tho loss of a single life.

Tiiis unfortunat(^ event, which occurred on tho morning of the 21st
of August, olf Beechoy Island, no human power could have averted ;
and my own voshoI, which at that time had the transjmrt actually in
tow, barely esoaped a similar fate, receiving a sevoi'o nip, which rose
th(! stern several feet, and arched the quarter-deck, destroying tho
rudder aiul screw ; one of the beams forward was sprung, and the port
bow partially stove, bricking one of the riders and forcing in the
planking. The latter damage, there is some doubt, may have boon
sustained in a heavy gale on the morning of the 18th of August^ when
tho ship was severely nip))ed off Ca|K) Riley. Tho icemaster is of
opinion it was received in Melville Bay, while forcing a passage under
full steam through some heavy ice ; how(^ver this may be, I have littlo
doubt but that for the solid nature of the stowage of our hold, and tho
strengthenings fitted in England, wo nmst have shared the same fate
as the unfortuiuite Hn'iatatttattc.

By the J)iligtnve tlieir lordships will have l)cen informed of my
prociH'dings up to the time of my arrival at Disco. 1 will, therefore,
now l)ri(>tly st«te what we have sinco done, and then, in obediunco to
the tU'th clause of their lordships' orders, relate what infornuition 1 havo
obtained with reference to the ('X|)edition, and the discoveries which
have been nui<l(\

On leaving Diseo I proceeded, with the lirrai((dhnHv in low, to
Upi^'nuvik, ther(> to obtain <logs, and to eonnnunieate with the In-
s|H>(^t(»r of North Oreenland eoneerning the disposal of tlu< lime of
thill. On the iifternoon of the 1 Uh of »Iuly we reached this pliwie,
and the ships heading otf while I landed, in two hours we proecH'ded
up the coast.

The following diiy, piMHJng C'ape Shaklelon in a calm, I look ad-
vantngif of the tine weiithrr to obtain Home Iooiuk from the llookery for

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

tho use of tho Arctic ships, and in three hours we obtained a sufficient
quantity to give each of our own vessels a day's fresh meat, reserving
enough to supply the North Starts crew with provisions for ten days,
independent of the sheep we brought from Ireland.

On the 16th of July we entered Melville Bay, and found it packed
with ice, in some places very heavy, from recent pressure, and tho land
floe unfortunately broken away, thus depriving us of the advantage of
its edge for docking the vessels, in case of a threatened nip.

On the 1 1th of July, owing to damage sustained in the ice, it became
necessary to shift the screw, and this was done while beset among
heavy fioes, almost out of sight of land. From the mast-head no land
could be seen at mid-day, or, indeed, any water but the pool in which
tho ships were afloat, but at midnight we proceeded along a narrow
lane which opened away to the northward.

Thick fogs and southerly winds, which closed the ice up, prevented
our getting througli Melville Bay till the 25th of July, when wo
stretched away from Capo York for Cape Warrender. Fog prevented
our taking observations while crossing over, and experiencing a strong
southerly set wo found, on the weather clearing, that tho ship was
within two miles of Capo Liverpool, though we had steered for Capo
Warrender with due allowance for currents.

Beaching over to the north shore, (which wo then kept close on
board,) we steered up Lancaster Sound, passing large floes which wore
driving to the westward.

On the morning of tho 29th of July we found a barrier of ice
stretching from shore to shoiv, and which evidently had never broken
away this season. We followed its edge for several miles in tho hope
of finding a lane through, but were eventually obliged to boar up for
Dundas Harbour (in Croker Bay) there to await a change.

In coasting towards this anchorage we were surprised at beholding
several tents pitched on a point six miles to tho westward of Cape
Warrender, but shortly found thorn to bo the habitations of a party of
Ks(|uimaux, who had come over from Pond Bay. Among these people
I found many preserved meat and potato tins, the former bearing Mr.
Oohlner's name, candle-boxes, some spars, and other government
stores, which led mo to fear that they had visited tho depot at Wol-
laston Island.

lit Dundas Harbour wo lay for eight days anxiously awaiting the
breaking up of the ice ; and on the (ith of August, hoping that I might
be able to (>xaniine, and if no<M'Hsary remove, the stoit'S from Wollaston
Island, we got under way and stretched across in that direction ; but
lieavy hunnnoeky ice prevented our v\k\\\ sighting it, and we w«'re
forced to bear up again for ilu^ north slion^ By this lime a light
north-w<-sterly wind had eased oil' tlu) lee, and I det^MininiMJ to pnsh
on IIS far as praetlcaUe under steam. The wind holding I'm' forty-
eight hours, we were fortunate enough to reach Beeelicy Island on tho
Hth of Aiignnt. In many eases the ice opened just as wo reached a
block, which would otherwise Inive sloppecl our progress ; and we wero
told by the ulUeers of the North Star tluit no water was to be wen

THE NORTH-WEST PASBAGE.

from Cape Riley the day before wo arrived. Thus their lordships will
perceive tliat no time was lost in reaching our destination.

Erebus and Terror Bay was full of heavy humraocky ice, of groat
thickness, impervious to the saw or the blasting cartridge, and too
rough and too much inundated with deep fresh-water pools to admit
the possibility of landing the stores on Beechey Island, or putting
them on board the North Star, (a mile and a half distant,) according
to my orders.

I had, therefore, no choice but to place them in what I deemed the
most convenient and practicable position, and, in my capacity as senior
officer at Beechey Island, determined on Gape Riley as the fittest spot,
and even more accessible than the island.

Accordingly on the following morning wo commenced our work,
and having secured the transport in a bight of the land ice, immediately
abreast of the steep cliff, the people were now set to work, watch and
watch, night and day. To expedite the service, I ordered all liands to
be sent from the North Star, with their hammocks, and desiring them
to be victualled from our ship. The time was thus saved which would
have been lost by their going and returning to their vessel, upwards of
two and a half miles distant.

The steamer lay with her fires banked up, and her hawsers in, ready,
at a moment's warning, to take the transport off-shore, in case of the
ice closing; and now, everything being set forward systematically,
and 130 t.ons of coal landed in the first thirty hours, I determined to
proceed myself up Wellington Channel, by boat an<l sledge, in search
of Captain PuUen, who had been absent from the North Star a month ;
and, as his provisions must have l)oen expended, there was soma appre-
hension as to his safety.

I had the double motive of desiring to convey to Sir Kdward
Belclier his dispatehes, as it would only bo by such means he could
possibly learn of my arrival until next season, unless he should return
to Boecliey Island.

I start<>d in my whale-boat, witli a month's provisions, at 9 a.m. on
the loth of August, leaving written orders with the First Lieutenant,
a copy of wiiich I enclose, marked '* M 1," in case of any unforeseen
casualty preventing my return to the ship by the time the trans|M)rt
was cleiinHl, to run no risk of the ships being caught for the winter,
but to |>r(K'ee(l to ICngland without me.

Wellington Chatinol was then full of ice, and so rough with largo
rrackri and pools that it defied sledging, excepting with a strong party.
Landing, therefore, on Cornvvallis Ishind, a little above Harlow Creek,
we made an attempt to carry a small punt over the ice; but this
)U'()V(h1 ineffectual, and I determined at last to proceed with Mr. Alston,
nnite of tlie North Star, and twt) men, by lan«l, to Cape Rescuo.
Kacli carried a blanket bag, with a fortnight's provisions, and reached,
with mueh exertion, tlui CajK<, at /> p.m. of the 13th of August. A
pieeeof epen wilier olf li<'len Haven pn'vonted our proceeding further,
and Iiei'e Wi\ U'urnt by notice of Captain I'ullon's return to Ids ship,
ami his having conununicaled with Sir Kdward Belcher.

THE NOnril-WEST PASSAGE.

Depositing in tlio cairn duplicates of their lordships' dispatches for
that officer, we commenced our return, and reached the tent on the
fifth day of our absence, footsore and much exhausted with this new
mode of journeying in the Arctic regions, having travelled 120 miles ;
sleeping without shelter on the bare beach, at a temperature several
degrees below freezing point, was a trial for all, more especially as we
could not eat the pemmican, and subsisted wholly on biscuit and tea,
with the exception of a few dovekies which I shot.

Up till the 12th of August Wellington Channel was blocked with
ice as far as the eye could reach. The plan marked " O 1 " shows its
position at this date, and the alteration I have made in the coast line
of the western shore.

It is remarkable that we traced and followed, for many miles, thdi
dog-sledge tracks of Mr. Penny, as fresh upon the sandy beach as
though they had been made the day previous, and it must bo remem-
bered that these were originally upon ice.

I returned to the ship on the afternoon of the 15th of August, and
found that wind and changes in the ice had obliged the first lieutenant
to move the transport away from Capo Riley, and that the process of
unlading had been carried on but slowly by means of sledges ; 856
packages had, however, been transported to the North Star by these
means.

On the 1 7th of August a heavy gale from the south-east set the ice
on to the Capo so suddenly and with such violence that both ships
narrowly escaped being lost. The Phoenix was severely nipped, the
ice bearing down upon her with such force that the six hausers and
two cables laid out were snapped like packthread, and the ship forced
against the land ice, lifting her stern five feet, and causing every timber
to groan. The hands were turned up to bo ready in case the ship
should break up, though there would have been small chance, in such
an event, of saving a man, as the wind blew so violently, with snow,
that it was impossible to face it, and the ice in motion around the ship
was boiling up in a manner tliat would have defied getting a sale
footing to the most active of our crew.

The plan marked *' C 2 " will show the manner in which wo were
driven continually away from Ca|>o Rilev by pressure from ice until
the 2()th of August, when the lirendulhane was carried out aoicmg
some fioe pieces and set into the Straits. I pushed out under steam
into the pack, and then only with considerable difficulty.

Ilaving once more got hor alongside the derrick, we commenced to
clear with all hands, as I intended to finiMJi the work without cessation
if we laboured all night.

While thus employed, I received by an official letter from Captain
Pullen, a copy of which 1 enclose, marked "L 1," a report ot the
melancholy int(>lligence of the death of M. Hellot, who had be(<n sent
by Captain l*ullen on his return during my absences, to acq\iaint nje
of tlw? same, and io carry on the original dfspatches to Sir Edward
IJelclior. This unfortunaU^ occurrence took placr on tli<< night of the
gale, when M. IJellot with two men were driveo ott' from the shore

THE N0RTH-WE3T PASSAGE.

tches for
t on the
this new
JO miles ;
several
ly as we
and tea,

ted with
lows its
>ast line

ilcs, thrf
cnch as
remoni-

ust, and
•utonant
ocoss of
'8; 856
>y these

the ice
n ships
m, the
Drs and

forced
timber
^c ship
n such

snow,
10 ship
a safe

' were
I until
tuong
•team

3d to
ation

ptain
■ fho
sent

mo
vard

tlin
lioro

on a floe ; and shortly after, while rcconnoitering from the top of a
hummock, ho was blown off by a violent gust of wind into a deep
crack in the ice, and perished by drowning. The two men were saved
by a comparative miracle, and, after driving about for thirty hours
without food, were enabled to land and rejoin their fellow-travellers,
who gave them provisions, and then all returned to the ship, bringing
back in safety the dispatches, but three of them fit subjects only for
invaliding.

A separate letter will give their lordships further information rela-
tive to the death of this excellent officer, who was sincerely regretted
by us all. His zeal, ability, and quiet unassuming manner, made him,
indeed, beloved.

The ice closing again obliged us to quit Cape Riley before midnight,
and, in endeavouring to push the ship into a bight in the land Hoe,
the Phoenix touched the ground, but came off again immediately with-
out damage. The whole night was spent in struggling to get the ships
into a place of security, but the ice drove both vessels fast to the west-
ward, when at 3.30 a.m, of the 2l8t of August, the ice closing all
round, both vessels were secured to a floe edge, but with steam ready
to push through, the instant the ico should loosen.

Shortly, however, a rapid run of the outer floe to the westward
placed the Phmnix in the most i>erilous position. I ordered the hands
to be turned up, not that aught could bo done, but to bo ready in case
of tbo worst to provide for their safety. The ice, however, easing off,
havin;; severely nipped this vessel, passed astern to the Breadalbane^
which ship either received the pressure less favourably, or was less
ecpial to the emergency, for it passed through her starboard bow, and
in less than fifteen minutes she sunk in thirty fathoms of water, giving
the people barely time to save themselves, and leaving the wreck of a
boat only to mark the spot where the ice had closed over her. Anti-
cipating such a catastruph(>, I got over the stern of the Phirnix, as
soon as the transport was struck, and was beside her when she filU'd,
and can unhesitatingly state that no human power could have saved
her. Fortunately, nearly the whole of tlie government stores had
been landed.

Enclosed, a list marked *' L 2 " sets forth the quantity and kind of
stores that were landed at Cape Riloy and Becchoy Island ; also what
were lost in the transport.

Having taken on board the shipwrecked crow, every precaution was
used with regard to the safety of Her Majesty's steam-vo^^sel ; but it
was not till the morning of tlio 22nd of August that wo succeediMl in
getting her to a safe position in Erebus and Terror Bay, where the
shii) was again secured to the land floe.

I now resolved to lose no time in getting to England; but, that T
might have the advantage of the latest intelligetic(> from tli(« Arctic
H(|uadron, I dcterniined upon taking tlu* opinion of i\u\ i('(>n)aHt«>r as to
the latest tlate ho eonsidored I could safely reiimin at Beechcy Ishuul.
Enclosed, nuirk(>d " L 3." is a <'opy of this report, and now I must
beg to roi'er their lordships to the general onkus from the senior olll-

THE NORTH-WEST t»A88AGE.

cer,* delivered to me by Captain Pullen on his return from Sir Ed-
ward Belcher, and while their lordships will readily understand how
awkward was the position in which I thus became placed, still it was
not without very serious deliberation, the written opinion of Captain
Pullen upon the subject, a copy of which I enclose, marked " L 4,"
and the authority as granted to the senior officer at Beechey Island by
their lordships' memorandum, May 11, 1853, that I replied to Sir E.
Belcher's order by a letter, the copy of which, marked " L 5," I en-
close, and which I acted on ; delaying to the last moment (and two
days after my icemastcr advised our departure) with the hope of Sir
Edward Belcher's arrival.

Their lordships will, I trust, bear me out in the steps I have taken,
and though I feel how serious is the responsibility I have thus incurred,
it has been done with the single motive of the public good, and acting
up to the full spirit of my instructions.

On the 24th of August I sailed from Beechey Island, but was shortly
forced to take shelter in a little harbour we discovered, and were
obliged to run into in a fog. This harbour, eight miles east of Cape
FoUfoot^ a plan of which I enclose, marked "C 3>" I named Port
Graham, and it is a well sheltered position, with good anchorage and
fresh water ; many hares were seen, and nine shot.

Here we lay during a violent gale from the eastward, which was so
furious in the gusts that, though the ship lay under the lee of a lofty
hill, she drove with two anchors ahead, until she brought up in forty
fathoms of water.

The gale sot vast bodies of ice up the Straits, until it came to a
dead stand, doubtless from it having filled up the whole channel to
Beechey Island, and most fortunate was it that wo got away when wo
did. For two days not a spoonful of water could do seen from the
neighbouring hill ; and the temperature falling rapidly, with the pros-
pect of an early winter, I began to fear we had found our winter quar-
ters : indeed, it was a matter dependent entirely on the wind whether
wo should got out this season. A watch was set to report the state of
the ice ; the icemasters and officers frequently visiting tlio look-out-
hill; on the morning of the 31st of August the ice commenced to
move out of the harbour, and, carrying the ship with it, we narrowly
escaped being driven into the pack, which was only prevented by
slipping the cable (with a hawser attached) and forcing the vessel,
under steam, through a crack in the floe. The hawser was cut through
by the ico in endeavouring to recover the anchor, which was thus lost.
I now deemed it advisable for the safety of the vessel t« proceed to
the inner bight of the harbour, which, lying behind a sliallow spot,
perfectly Hcourcd her from ice driving in or out, and, should we bo
utiablo to get away this year, would prove a good position for winter
quarters.

I was ill-proparod for suoli a contingency, as we had not left on
board suffli^ient provisions for our now much increased orew, having

•

. * Miirkcd " M a." > .

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the people of the three other vessels of my squadron with me, besides
supernumeraries and invalids.

In the evening a small crack along the north shore to the eastward
was observed, and we immediately shipped the anchor and steamed up,
but it closed ere we could reach it ; we therefore returned for the
night ; but in the morning I was glad to find it again opened, and wo
proceeded under full steam and sail, with a light northerly wind, to-
wards the eastward. Nothing but a powerful steamer could have ef-
fected her escape at that period ; and now, with one or two slight de-
tentions for a couple of hours, we made out of the Straits, passing
Capo Warronder on the morning of the 2d of September ; and hero I
beg you will call their lordships' attention to this position as one well
applicable for a dispatch rendezvous.

During my stay at Port Dundas, (which is immediately under the
cliffs forming Cape Warrender,) I ordered a large cairn to be built on
a remarkable rocky peninsula at its entrance. This cairn is upwards
of 16 feet in height, 20 feet in circumference, and painted red with a
white cross. Its position is such that a vessel sighting Gape Warren-
der must perceive it, and as nearly all the whalers every year sight
this capo, I conceived it to be an admirable position (should their lord-
sliips desire to send any dispatches to Sir Edward Belcher next year by
tlio whalers) for these dispatches to be deposited.

For sailing marks I have made sketches of the coast in two positions.
Among the drawings are three views, marked " D 1 and 2," duplicates
of which I have loft with Sir E. Belcher ; and I believe it to bo Gapt.
Pullon's intention, unless directed otherwise by his senior, to have f,n
officer and party ready to receive any communication next year, ai i,
in return, to forward his intelligence by the same opportunity. ShouL!
a government vessel be s^nt out from England, she would of course
carry the party on to Beechey Island.

With light winds we succeeded in getting out of Lancaster Sound
on the 3d of September, the ice proving unfavourable for examining
the depot at Wollaslon Island, which I had intended doing.

We arrived at Liovely, Disco, on the 9th of Soptembor, and imme-
diately commonood coaling. Tlie barometer threatening a southerly
gale, induced me to pass through the Waigat to escape it, and in tlio
darkness of night, running under full sail and steani, we were nearly
going stem on to an iceberg 100 feet in height, to avoid which wn
ruutulod to within half pistol-shot of a rock awash at the entraiiue of
the Moligatu, and wliich, though not laid down in ihu charts, wo sup-
posed the ship was well clear of; a strong set through the cliannol to
thu northward must have caused this deception.

While the coaling was being comploted I made arrangements with
the inspector of North Greenland concerning the disposal of the hull
and spars of tho stranded whaler Itose.

For the more convenient disposal of her remains I blow her up, and
liaving lan<h!d, and placed under charge of the governor, the masts and
spars, with a list of their prices, (a copy ol' which, nuu'ked •• L (>," I
enclose,) wo took on board for llrewood sfjcli of the debris of the hull

THE NORTH>W£ST PAS»AOE.

as would otherwise have been appropriated by the Esquimaux, leaving
the remainder convenient firewood for vessels touching there, to be
obtained at Hs. a fathom, the price to be received by the governor,
and remitted by the Danish government to the British Admiralty for
the benefit of the underwriters.

Having completed these arrangements, coaled, watered, and refitted,
wo were detained two days longer, by a strong N.E. gale ; but on the
morning of the 17th of September, proceeded to sea.

At Licveley I obtained information of a coal mine about 26 miles
from the harbour, on the soutlicrn shore of the island, and I am told
that the coal to be obtained here is in such quantities that a ship might
take 1,000 tons. For burning in stoves it is preferred by the Danes
to English coal. I obtained a sufficient quantity of an inferior sort to
make trial in our boilers. A copy of the chief engineer's report 1 en-
close, marked " L 7," and I have retained on board four casks of this
fuel for their lordsliiiw' dis^()osal.

On the 18th of September I put into Holsteinbourg to obtain sights,
to complete our meridian distances, and satisfy me as to the rates of
our clironomoters. In this harbour (a complete survey of which, made
by Mr. Stanton, the master, during our first visit, and which is marked
C 4) we found tho Truelove, Captain Parker, which had put in the
day previously with her bow stove ; she had received this damage
among the ice in the gale of tho previous Wednesday. I rendered
her every assistance, with a carpenter and stores, and towed him to
sea at daylight, on tho moniing of the 20th of September, carrying
him out to an offing of 60 miles. He reports that all the whalers
were caught among the ice in that gale, and he much feared they
had received some damage, but, upon his ac()uainting mo they
were all in such close company that tho crews of any disabled
vessels would surely escape to tho others, I did not deem it ne-
cessary to delay my return to England by going over to the fishing-
ground.

Since rounding Capo Farewell, a succession of Htrong northerly and
westerly winds have favoured our I'eturn, and we sighted land on the
3rd instant.

And now, Sir, I beg to relate, in a summary manner, the intelligence
gleaned from tho searching squadrons ; and first, with reference to Sir
Edward Belcher, I have little else to say but that he wintered in a
spot ho had named Northumberland Sound, in lat. 76° 52' N., and
long. 97° W., near the position now marked in tho charts of Wellington
Channel as Capo Sir John Franklin. From Captain Pullcn I learnt
that not the slightest traces of tho missing expedition had been met
with, either by this or tho western branch of the searching sc^uadron,
and that it was evidently the intention of Sir Edward Belcher to return
to Becchoy Island as soon as possible. For tho rest, Sir Edward's dis-
patches will convey all further information.

Ca()tain Kellett wintered at Dealy Island, Melville Island. lie had
a ntu'row escape of losing his ship on tho night of his depailure from
Beedioy Island ; she grounded off Cape Colbourn, and was only got

THE NOHTU-WEST PASSAGE.

off after the ice had set down upon her, casting her over on her br(!»ad-
side, and with the loss of sixty feet of her false keel.

It was a party from his vessel that discovered the dispatch of Captain
M'Clure at Winter Harbour, and was thus led to the Investigator* a
position, a brief account of the voyage and discoveries of which vessel
I will now relate.

Their lordships will I'emember that it was on the 6th of August,
1850, that the Investigator was last seen running to the north-
eastward with studding sails set. They rounded Point Barrow with
much difficulty.

At the River Colvile, in 150° W., they were detained some days,
and then thick weather, fogs, and contrary winds set in, the latter
proving rather an advantage to us, as it kept the ice open, and the
necessity of working to windward between the polar pack and the
gradually sloping shore gave them the means of avoiding dangers. On
the 26th of August they reached the mouth of the Mackenzie, the pack
at this part being upwards of ninety miles distant. On the 30th they
were off Cape Bathurst.

When at Cape Parry open water to the northward induced Captain
M'Clure to push for Banks Land, and when about sixty miles from
this cape they fell in with an unknown coast, which was named Baring
Island. Passing up a strait between this island and a coast that was
called Prince Albert Land, they reached the latitude of 73°, where ice
impeded their further progress. The season suddenly changing, the
ship was beset and forced to winter in the pack. Drifting to the
southward, they were ultimately frozen up in lat. 72° 40' N., and
long. 117° 30' W.

The travelling parties in the spring found no traces of the missing
expedition, but discovered and laid down much of the adjacent coasts.

On the 14th of July, 1851, the ico broke up, and, freeing the ship,
an endeavour was made to push to the northward towards Melville
Island, but an impenetrable pack in lat. 75° 35' N., long. 115° W.,
precluded their completing what their autumn travelling parties had
proved to be the north-west passage. An attempt was now made to
round the southern shore of Baring Island, and proceed up the west
side : and with great peril to the vessel they succeeded in reaching as
far as lat. 74° 6', and long. 117° 12', where they wore frozen in on the
24th of September, 1851, and have never since been able to move iho
ship. Tlieir record was deposited at Winter Harbour the year fol-
lowing Commander M'CUntock's visit, while employed on Captain
Austen's expedition.

There are two remarkable discoveries mentioned in Capt. M'Clure's
journal, viz., some smoking hillocks and a petriflod forest. Ho also
states that during his intorcouse with the natives he only once met
with any hostile demonstrations. This occurred at Point Warren,
near tlio Mackenzie^ where, on attempting to land, two natives, with
tliroatening gestures, waived them off; it was not without much difH-
culty that they were pacified, and then they related that all their tribo
but the chief and his sick son had fled on seeing the ship, alleging as a

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGEi

reason that they feared the ship had come to revenge the death of a
white man they had murdered some time ago. They (through the
interpreter) related that some white men had come there in a boat,
and that they built themselves a house and lived there ; at last the
natives murdered one, and the others escaped they knew not where,
but the murdered man was buried in a spot they pointed out. A thick
fog coming on prevented Capt. M'Clure from examining this locality,
which is much to be regretted, as here is the probable position in
which a boat party endeavouring to return by the Mackenzie would
have encamped.

I have now only to state further for their lordships' information on
this head, that Commander M'Clure had made arrangements for de-
serting the ship, to have been carried out a few days later than the
opportune arrival of the officer from the Resolute, and that Captain
Kcllett sent his surgeon to report upon the health of the crew. He
also desired that should there not be among them twenty men who
would volunteer to remain another winter. Captain M'Clure was to
desert his vessel. The Intrepid was expected at Beechey Island with
the crew, and Sir Edward Belcher had ordered the North iStar to be
prepared on her arrival to proceed to England, sailing on the 1st of
September, and to leave the Intrepid at Beechey Island in her stead.

I have now, in concluding the intelligence gained concerning the
Arctic searching squadrons, to acquaint their lordships of the dangerous
position in which the North Star passed the winter. Shortly after I
left Beechey Island in my yacht, che Isabel, a violent gale which I
encountered in the straits drove the North Star on shore, where she
remained during the whole winter, and was only got off this spring
with much difficulty.

Herewith I enclose a chart, showing the tracks of the vessels of my
squadron on their outward voyage, and this vessel homeward ; also,
the several alterations and additions made in the coast line of Green-
land. This is marked C 5 ; also, a chart on Mercator's plan, marked
C 6, showing the north-west passage, with all the latest discoveries,
and the coasts explored by each expedition up to this date, in search
for the missing squadron.

From C 1 to C 6 are the surveys and plans made during the voyage,
and alluded to in this dispatch. From L 1 to L 7 are the copies
of letters therein spoken of, and enclosures M 3 to M 10 are copies
of the memorandums and orders issued by me as senior officer at
Beechey Island.

The drawings sketched from D 1 to D 24 are made, exhibiting
several positions of the ships during the voyage, and headlands, coast-
line, and views taken at different times ; also a drawing of the Inves-
tigator, wintering in the pack, made from a sketch, and the description
by Lieut. Crcsswell.

In natural history we arc able to ad ' a large collection of minerals
to our nmsouni, neai'ly a thousand specimens of ores and earthy sub-
stances have been obtained at different parts of the coast of Greenland,
Spccimeus also of the flower, leaf, and root plants, of all the kinds wq

THU NORTH-%VKST PASSAGE.

liave been made acquainted with, are carefully preserved ; and such
crustaceous and other creatures from the animal kingdom as our limited
means have allowed us to collect, are prepared for the naturalists.

A careful meteorological journal has been kept, a tide register at Hol-
steinberg, and a great many observations made on the direction, dip, and
force of the magnet. These have been carried on by Mr. Stanton and
the late lamented M. Bellot, whose industry in this branch of science
is well proved by the mass of valuable matter he has left behind.

I have only now to beg their lordships will accept my assurance of
the perfect satisfaction I have received in the conduct of every officer
and man in the expedition during a period of incessant labour, con-
tinual hardship, and frequently imminent peril ; each has done his duty
with a zeal and alacrity that I find it hard to individualise.

On all occasions I have received the most prompt co-operation from
my first lieutenant, Mr. Elliott, who, as an old officer, I would beg to
recommend to their lordships* notice.

Among our numbers six only of the officers and men had been among
the ice before, yet I invariably found them as active in their employ-
ment, while engaged with that treacherous element, as the most
experienced whalers; and whatever the service, the danger, or the
emergency, I had only to order and it was promptly executed. Without
such hearty co-operation on the part of both officers and men, I must
say I could scarcely have completed all that has been done ; and I have
only further to state for their lordships' information that to the officers
this expedition has been a very serious expense. Obliged to equip
themselves and store their mess for an Arctic winter, they have returned
to England, after an absence of little more than four months from the
time they sailed from Cork, and thus their pay cannot cover the
expenses of such a costly outfit. It is more particularly heavy to
the juniors, whose expenses were the same, while their pay is consi-
derably less.

My remark book contains much information I have gathered during
the voyage upon many subjects, and this accompanies my charts and
drawings.

I bog you will assure their lordships of my anxiety to learn of their
approval of my proceedings, more especially as I found it necessary
upon so many occasions to take upon myself a responsibility which
nothing but the circumstances in which I was placed could otherwise
have justified. I especially refer to the dispatch of the Diligence to
England, and the delicate task of disregarding the orders of my senior
officer.

I omitted to mention that on our return south through Baffin Bay,
wo tried for soundings at a spot marked in the track chart, with 2,870
fathoms, without getting bottom. The line was upwards of three
hours and a half in running out, and the lead employed more than a
half hundred weight.

I have also to state, in conclusion, that I ordered Mr. M'Cormick to
join my ship for a passage to England, learning that he had finished
tlio work that he was appointed to the Norh Star to perform, and his

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

desiring to leave the ship. I also ordered, as per Memorandums 3, 4,
6, 8, 9, and 10, certain exchanges among officers and men belonging
to this ship and the North Star.

Tlie pay-books of this ship are made up, and are enclosed with

the dispatches.

I have the honour to bo, Sir,

Your most obedient, Iminble servant,

E. A. Inolefield, Commander.

Admiralty Office, Oct. 7.
Sir,— 1 have the honour to acquaint you for the informivlion of the
Lords Commissioners of tlie Admiralty, of my arrival in London this
morning, with Captain Tnglefield, of H.M.S. Pluenix, hav-ing been
charged with Captain M'Chiro's dispatches by Captain KoUctt, ol
H.M.S. Itcsotute, which are herewith transmitted, together with a
copy of the orders 1 received from Commander M'Clure and Captain

Kellett. . , , . „

I have the greatest satisfaction in reporting, that dunng tlie pro-
longed service on which we W(!re employed in search of tlu; crcAVrt of
tho^iuissing ship^, we liavo only lost three men,— in the spring of the

pro8(*nt year. , rr i f

1 left, tho Investigator on t)io l.'JMi of April last, in tho Harbour ol
Mercy, lut. 74° 6'*N., long. 117"4.';'W., and, crosning the ic(^ with
sledges, reached the Jtesohtte, at Melville Island, on tlu? 2nd of May.

Assisted by a party I'rom tho It- .olutc, I reached the North Star,
Beechoy Island, on the 2nd of June, with Lieut. Weymouth, .vhoiu
it givt>s me great pleasure to speak of in the highest terms.
1 have tl»o honour to be. Sir, your most obedient servant,

A. G. CiuisswKLL, Lieutenant,

II. M.S. InriKti(/otor.

Hy Robert MK'lui'o, Esq., Conunander of IT.M.
Discovi'ry Ship luvvHtujator and Senior Of-
fleer Ticsent.

Considering it of the utmost imj)()rtanco that the crew should be
divided, as th(i only means of carrying the views which I ent<Mtaiii
into elK'ct — viz, the probability of being MuMvby able to extricate and
carry lioint* tlu< ship, or failing in the a(!eoinplishnu<nt of such design,
to be enabled to meet tlie exigencies of anotlier winter in any part of
these seas, without the risk of sutfering from slarvalion, which nuist
inevilaldy follow with the whol(< <'ompl(>inent on board; I Ihereloro
deem no further preamble re(iuisite, but direct your attention to th(«
following : —

Having most opportunely received intelligence, conveyed under
v(<ry severe and trying circumstances by Lieutenant Pini, from Captain
Kelleit, C.U., of II. M. discovery ship Itvsnlutv, now most pr(»videntially
wintering al Dealy Island, that has allayed the great apprehension,
which I otherwise coidd not have div<'st<'d myself t»l' feeling, for the
safety of thovu engaged in the execution of a service so hazardous,

THE NORTH-WEST PASfiAGE.

you will consequently, upon the J 5th of the present month, or as soon
after as the weather will permit, proceed to the island mentioned in
the preceding paragraph, taking under your conunand such officers
and men as are selected for detachment.

Several will require great care and attention from the debility oc-
casioned by the epidemic that has throughout the late very severe
winter ailiicted them, eonsciiuently you will not allow the laudable
anxiety which might urge you to accomplish the journey by undue
exertion, to overcome a proper consideration for their enleeble<l state,
so as to tax their strength too severely.

You will be provisioned for twenty-four days, which will admit of
your taking easy stages for CJapo Providence and Point Ilearne, where
you can conq)lete your resources if necessary, and also remain to re-
fresh your crew. Thence to the Ihsolutv is only thirty miles.

On arriving at Dcaly Island and r>'portlng yourself to Captain
Kellett, C.B., you will then, of eom'sc, be under his orders, which you
will follow for your future guidance.

Given luider my haml, on board II.M. discovery ship Investufator,
Bay of Mercy, Itaring Island.

KoBEiiT M'Cluue, Conuuander.

To Lieut. CresswoU, of II.M. discovery ship
InvvMigator, in charge travelling-party.

By Ileiny Kellett, Esq., C.B., Captain of
II. M.S. HcmlHtv.

It being of importance that an olfu^'r of ll.M.S. InvrstKjntor sho\iId
reach England by thu (^ulicst op[)ortunity, and it being possible that
those ships may not break out tliis season,

You will take charge <f Commander M'Clure's despatches, delivering
them to the eonunanding oilleer of the North Star, who will cause
copies to be made of them for Sir Edward B(dch(>r's information, an<l
return you the original, seided, for conveyinice to England.

You will accompany Mr. Iloehe, nuite, who has charge (»f the party,
with instructions to victual you ami Mr. Wynniatt, whose health is
such as to reipiin^ an immediate return to England.

Given under my hand, on board of ll.M.S. /icsolutv, at Dealy Is-
land, May 7, 1853.

HicNMiv Kellktt, Cai)tftin.

Liuut. Cresswi'll. II. M.S. Itnustiffaior.

ll.M.S. Assistaiur^ on return to Heeehey Island, westwai'd
of Itaillie Harbour, and alHiiit 10 miles east of Ca|

Hecher, July 2t>, iHoM

Rm, — The very unexpected arrival of ('oimnander Piillen in his
boat olV Dundas Island, just as 1 had recovered my dispnielies, (de|to-
siti^l for him at ('ape Hecher in May lanl,) places me in lli(< position
of addressing to tiieir lordships a very hurried dispatch.

First, l)(M'iiiis(ni mile gained in this dreaded Strait isaeonsiderntion for
riiiking wintering here. Next, (onnnamhr Pullen lias to retinii by tlie

THK NORTH-WEST PASSAOE.

west of Dundas and Hamilton Islands, and I cannot strain his crew
by carrying them much out of their way.

After my dispatch of April last, I proceeded to the N.E. as far as
the connexion with Jones Strait in 90°, where I found the sea open,
and all progress obstructed on the 20th of May. Polar Sea as far as
the eyo could range, from 1,500 feet elevation, "rough sailing ice."

This elevation Ih in lat. 76° 31', and about 90° W. ; but the whole
survey, I trust, will be (on IJ inch scale to 1 mile) ready for trans-
mission before the Ist of September, at which date I purpose sending
one of the vessels home.

Being cut off by sea, I now pursued an ojKJning from Cape Separa-
tion, (nearly nortli 20 miles of Prince Alfred Bay,) and I'eachcd Wel-
lington Channel.

T next, having noticed loom of land from the high land of Britan-
nia Cliff, started from Princess Royal Island, and rcached the western-
most, in 7H° 10' N., calling the group " Victoria Archi|)elago," and the
easternmost, forming the cliannel to Jones Strait, •* North Kent," in
honour of his Royal Highness the late Duke.

Reports of " open water," the reception of the missing dispatches,
and other causes, rendered my return to the ship to look out for the
interests of those still absent imperative. I reached the ship without
casualty on the 22d of ilune, after an absence of 52 days, bringing my
men back in good working condition, and not subjects for the list.

Conunander Richards peri'ormed his work nobly, so did Lieutenant
Osborne, his companion.

In the llrst place, by a curious precoiiception, ho deposited his dis-
patches for Captain Kellett, on the 30tl' of April, at a point i*. 7(>° 32',
105° 4' W., my point agreed on btMUg 77° and 105°. Ai'U r having
advanced 120 mil(>8 he met Lieutenant Hamilton seeking these dis-
patches, lie forthwith put him efi route to obtain tlie dis])atches, to
overtake LiLUtenant Oslmrne, an<l by these means place me in posses-
gion (by the return of the Rolianui! sledge) of tln' important, and, to
their lordships, doubtless pleasing intelligence, of the sai'ety of the
hivenHijator and crew at Banks Land, (as per doc«niieuts din'cted to
be forwarded by (Commander Pullen,) having nearly accomplished the
N.W. — N.E, passage I

Commander Kichards, flmliiig that Commander M'Clintoek had
poached upon Ills ground, instiiiitly eanu^ to Ww determination of visit-
ing the Jirsttluti; and obtnining all the re(|uisil(* particulars relative to
the Itirfstii/iitor.

By Mils cnin-Hi' he laid <lown tlxi short s of the eastern sid(^ of lleela
and ( I riper (itilf, and, on liis return, eiinie up Byam Martin C'hiinnel,
l)roviiig its conD.ietion with oui' Polar basin.

Operations lor v'f.ttiiig out were complete, wlu'ii, having dispatched
a cutter, by ealcidation, to rentier HHsisinnee, sli(< tortiiiiately met Com-
maniler Richards at tli(< critical mmuent, and, after an absene(< of 94
days, I hull the plensiire of taking him by the hand at the mouth of
oiu' eaiuU on the llitli of •luly.

That night, both vessels being attoat and reiuly, everything was em-

THE NORTII-WEBT PASSAGE.

barked, and on the 14th July, 1 1 months from leaving Beechey Island,
the vessels, free from accident of any kind, were again in motion on
their proper clement ; 48 hours found us halfway to Cape Becher, two
more days to the land floe at Cape Acland, near Sir R. Inglis Bay ;
and to-day 10 miles beyond Cape Becher, with still 10 miles of open
water in advance.

Lieutenant Osborne rejoined on the 15th, after an absence of 97
days, having worked for the position said to bo attained by Messrs.
GhxHlsir and Marshall on the south shore, but without meeting any of
tlieir cairns or marks, even until John Barrow Hill boro north (true).

I have directed the North Star to take home, at the earliest safo
moment, the officers and crew of the Investigator, should they arrive ;
which i trust Captain Kellett will dii-ect, as I do not conceive, looking
to their lurdships' intentions, that any further expense should be in-
curred by the detention of that vessel and crow, merely for the pur-
pose of awaiting the movement uf the ice, for 20 seasons. I earnestly
hope, however, that she may fortunately be rc-lcused this season ; and
I have that full confidence in Captain Kellett that such a desirable ter-
mination will not be lost sight of in connexion with the return of his
own vessel this season. The circumstance of the progress of Cora-
ntandor M'Clure, and the probability of Captain Collinson following
up his track, must certainly affect my instructions, and I confidently
look for dispatches to guide me in the altered state of affairs on my
return to Beechey Island. I have said sufficient of my leading officers
to make their lordships aware of their ability and zeal. At the end of
this service I hope to bo abh* t<» report of the general conduct and
abilities of all the others.

Fully trusting that their lordships will feel satisfied not only that all
has been done, but that we are ready and willing to do more.
1 have th(! honour to be your most obedient servant,
KiiWARi) Bkuiiikii, Captain,

Conunanding Arctic Squadron.

To the Secretary of the Admiralty, London.

II. M.S. Atmistntia; Winter Quarters, North umb<>rland
Sound, Sept. 22, IH52, lat. 7()° r)2' N., long, 97° W.

Silt,— Being at this inotnent about to examine the coast (by sh'dge)
easterly to ('tip(< Berlicr and Hamilton Island, I tiik(t this prtM'aution,
ill the event of any party from the North Star visiting our cairns, to
atford the latent iiilorniutioii of our proceedings.

On tlu^ 11th of August, as my <l(<spateh IciV with ('Otniniinder Pul-
leii would inform you, I (piitted lleccltey Island, leaving tluic ('Uptain
Kellett with his inslnictinns, and who would sn^ the North Star safely
doeki<(l lu'lore quit ting. Sicaming on, w(^ passed up Wellington (*han-
nel without observing Haring liny, or tiny of the (1< i>p imlentalions of
tlm new chart, nor tlu> Mount Kraiiklin of l)e Iluveii. On the morn-
ing of the l(y\\\ \\v itoticiMl a very rcinarkalih^ pil(« on a hill, apparently
the work of inaii, and 1 iinmediiiti'ly moved on in the fionrrr, exaniinrd
it, and obtailu^d my llrst well fixed position in these regions. The

THB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

pile was found to be merely the remains of a dike, whicb, being harder
than the Hurrounding matter, had remained until it had acquired n
height of 20 feet, — about 14 in tiie meridian, and 6 feet E. and W.
The ix)sition of our cairn (^about 100 yards south of it) was in lat.
76° 12' 52" N., long. 92° 48' 42" W., evidently t\»o rise from the point
whore one of tlie searching parties observed, in 76° 13' distant about
two miles west from us. But the bays, formed north and south, free
from ice, do not exist in any manner worthy of more than slight in-
dentations. The ice or snow, as the southern land is very low, must
have deceived the previous visitors. I think I may safely say, that
not tlie iTiost distant liope of any communication by sea exists in this
direction witli Jones Sound. Although, from the fogs and vapours
which were particularly noticed from the crow's nest on board, and by
myself from the deck, exhibiting at times the appearance of smoke
from lires, I am inclined to suspect extensive lakes or arms of the sea,
iltc, running parallel to the northern land, and, possibly, connecting
by some very narrow neck, but westerly much, as it would otherwise
materially iuHueuce the tides in this region. I now speak determinedly
in calling tilings by their proper names, — at least, if any tides are ac-
knowledged in the Knglish Channel, — regular rise and fall, ebb and
flood. Leaving this position, and having already made my mind up
not to interfere witli any hind which could liave been seen and named
by Cai)tain IVnny's people, I pushed on to the westward, reaching
Cap(5 IJeclier about midnight, where a deposit of 42 days' provisions
for ten men was w»'ll sieured, and notice of our njovements left. Pass-
ing westerly, we reached, about 4 p.m., the (jxtreme land. Here I
creeled a very eoiiHpieuous cairn, and from tlie summit (about 1,000
feet above the sea) obtaiiu'd a view of tlie distant land, easterly and
soutlicrly, to S.VV., where it ceased at what 1 shall contiiuie to consider
as (!ape Lady Franklin, n^serving iUv name of Sir .lohn for the baso
of my hilt. IJut hen(!o the view l'n»m [? of] Cape Uechcr was entirely
ciit(»irhy an iuterveuing pciint n(»t h'S.s than 12 miles. The coast line,
diniinirthed much in hiigth, will, however, acconunodate Captain Penny's
names, giving to the i.sland next to nu^ Cracroft and Point Sophia,
and liu^ points of others his ditlerent names.

The land on whi(!h I wtood being veritably newly discovered, I ttrnk
possession of it in due I'orni us Mount I'ercy, and the territory, Northum-
iKtrland of North Ihitain, at the same time naming the expanse of
inK't-eovered sea bi'Mealh nie Norlhuuiberland Sound.

The llo(f ieit having closed in here on the outlying islands, con\polled
me to sei'k for security for the vessel, which the Sound happily all'orded.
lint, as it continued to press in, no litu(« wiis to be lost in selecting a
spot where she might, securely winter This, forliniately oll'ered about
three miles wenli-rlv, wIk i(* the vessels are now well frozen in.

On the iKth I uiiide iiu excursion to one of ih(« highest peaks of
tlie oiillviiig ntirth-western Isluiwl, from which I obtained iingles to
Ciijie liiuly Franklin, as well as to liie southern and weslerunioHt lands,
where it scented to trend awiiy S.S.W.. true; thi> next very distant
land bore N.N.K., iiboiil iiO to .'lo miles, being nearly tlu« computed

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAOK.

■ '■

distanco which we were from Gape Lad/ Franklin. I especially ro-
inark these computed distances to show that, under the most favour-
able circumstances in this climate, and with first-rate instruments, I
could barely, at such distances, be sure of the objects presented to my
view ; and even then I asked my assistant to satisfy himself that it
really was land which I took.

As far, therefore, as my observations from this point, and those of
Commander Richards, from a much higher mountain, about five miles
easterly of me on the main, are concerned, there is no visible loom of
land between Capo Lady Franklin and the newly-discovered land,
N.N.E. ; or, by actual observation, 1 43°'2 of the horizon.

From tlie free motion of the tides and floes in this direction, here
parallel to the cliannel, (say N.N.W. and 8.S.E.,) I am satisfied that
wo ai*o now in the Polar Sea, composed, in all probability, of a great
archipelago of islets and sandbanks.

Time was now too precious to lose in waiting for open water for the
ship ; indeed, I judged correctly in estimating the season closed, and
immediately determined on boat and sledge work. It was first intended
to take two boats, but the former Arctic men thought that appearances
indicated firm 'ce or floes. For my own part, I determined to secure
my great objt ..> of settling the position of all we had seen, and of being
properly prepared for further operations. The light ice-boat, built
after a model lent to me by Captain Hamilton, and named after him,
was attached to my sledge. Commander Richards had the second
sledge, and Lieutenant Osborno the third, provisioned for twenty-one
days, and, with a precautionary dep^jt sent overland to a bay likely to
afford shelter, the party started on the 23rd of August. It was soon
found that the pools and cracks between the floes could not be managed
by one boat, and she little better than piuiteboard as to thickness ; a
whale-boat was tlierctbro added. It is immaterial now to mention
particulars, but on the 25th wo landed on a low point, whei'e the coast
sudd(fnly turns to the eastward, and discovoreil tlio remains of several
well built KH(|uiiiiaux houses, not simply circles of sniall stones, but two
lines of well laid wall in excavated ground, filled in between by about
two feet of fine gravel, well paved, and withal presenting the appear-
ance of gi'eat ear<^ — more, indeed, than 1 am willhig to attribute to the
ru(h) inhabitants or migratory E.s(|uimaux. liones of ilcer, walruSi
seals, ^(!., nnnierouM. Coal found.

The addition of the wiiale-boat rendered the moveinentH of the other
]>arty so Hh)W that I was cotnpclicd to move on singly, leaving Com-
mander Uiehiinis lo <ron)plete the coast line s(>ar('ii IVoni his advanced
station as long as his provisions wmdd last (one sk dge having swamped
and spoiled the gn>i«t«M' pivrt).

On the evening of the 27th of August, the anniversary of tim action
at Algiers, 1 took possession of the first large island s{«en iVoni the
t'ornier station, naming it, in eom)>liment to the gallant Connnander-
in-Chief, FiXmoiilh Island. The siunmit ninnetl Milne Peak, — our
second in eonunand. To the eastwanl of mo lay a long tabh' island,
to which CVtnnnander Hichardf* would repair, and eonnect it with our

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

survey. From the summit of this island, 580 feet above the sea, and
in lat. 77° 15' N., I had anticipated the satisfaction of commanding
a most extensive range. I was miserably disappointed; and, after
watching two successive days, for hours, through snowstorms, for
merely some glimpse of the land I had now to seek, I was barely re-
warded by ascertaining that an open sea, of about seventeen miles,
would enable me to reach it, if the wind permitted ; for the boat, when
sledge-laden, with tent, bedding, provisions, &c., was not very safe,
even on the Thames above bridge. Fortune favoured us, and, by aid
of sails (tent-bottom) and paddles, we reached our destination the next
afternoon, after six hours' toil. The ice then moving on to the land
completely entrapped us, but we were safe on terra firma. Thick'
snowy weather continued with light gleams at times, affording us occa-
sionally glimpses of Exmouth and Table Islands. I took possession of
this new addition to Her Majesty's territories under the title of North
Cornwall, in compliment to his Royal Highness the heir apparent.
Waiting to secure this position, which was determined to be in lat.
77° 33' 30" N., long, about 97° W., and having ascended the liighest
point of land (within t;»ree miles N.E.) and satisfied myself that I
commanded the north-west extreme for a radius of five miles at least,
and that no land within the range of Exmouth Island (seventeen miles
distant) existed westerly of me, I returned \io the beach, and, having
hauled the boat overland, to clear the ice which had entrapped us,
launched into the open water, and pulled along the south-western lino
of the island about seventeen miles, where we landed and encamped
for the night.

This position proved to be the southern angle of North Cornwall,
situated in 77° 28' 50" N. The weather still continued thick, with
occasional snowfalls, and hiding most of the objects which I was so
anxious to obtain ; indeed, barely sufficient of Exmouth and Table
Islands to secure my position.

But in the eastern horizon, where the sun at times shone brightly, I
was enabled from a very elevated [K)sition to satisfy myself that no
land was visible in tlie eastern horizon for thirty miles ; and the
eastern low extremity of tliis land, North Cornwall, distant about ten
miles E.N.E.

Throughout this very interesting search not a particle of drift wood
has been noticed 8iu(;e ({uitling V^illage Point, and not a trace of human
beings. Animal life seems to fail after ({uitting Exmouth Island. It
is possible that the snow may have covered many objects, but w(^ noticed
thcnj even when heavier snow had fallen (m Table Island.

If our unfortunate eountrytnen have "taken the ilot^ and drifted with
it," their <'um(» is hopclesH. If we may jinlgc from the aspect of the
floes, wlicm tliey lia<l coiiu^ into collision, or where they piled them-
selves in layers over forty feet on the nortli-west^'rn extremilieM of the
islands, the I'eeliu;^ was (lisheartiMung. We noticed nothing e(|inil to
It in Melville Hay. Oin' only resource ikiw is the <'l(ise senreh of the
coast line west and south-westerly, and north and easterly, for any
triM'ca of vi'ssels or crews. *■

THK M0KTH-WE8T PASSAGE.

The tides in the parallel of 77° 30' are regular east and west, the
flood coming from the east, and that tide to the north appearing to
prevail at a depth below the ordinary thickness of the floo, as we fre-
quently noticed detached heavy masses, drawing some eight or ten
feet, pressing rapidly and forcibly against the weather floe edge, and
a stitF breeze. The boat was on one occasion so forced to windward,
and stove.

Finding little chance of better weather, young ice forming, and our
position being very precarious in such a frail boat against the glassy
ice even now on the surface, we took advantage of the lull, and fortu-
nately effected our escape, under great difliculty, to Table Island, the
day following Exmouth Island, and forward, rejoining Commander
Richards and party before leaving Village Point.

I cannot take leave of the little boat without expressing, in common
with all her crow, our admiration of her most perfect adaptation for the
service contemplated. Siio had, it is true, sundry severe injuries, but
under Providence we escaped and returned safely. 8ho has yet, I trust,
much to earn before she is laid up with her " honours due."

From our examination of this northern sea, I now feel convinced
that the so-termed Smith and Jones Sounds are connected immediately
with this northern sea. If Franklin passed easterly tiirough Lancaster
Sound to try the opening of Jones or Smith outlets, wo may yet fall
upon his traces, as my own spring movements will carry mo in that
direction. Commander Pullen or Mr. M'Cormick may have already,
in part, settled this important question ; they were fully impressed
by me with the importance of that course of search.

Our parties returned to the ship on the 8th of September, having
been absent but sixteen days. It was satisfactory, at all events, to And
that the opinion I had formed of the season had been fully borno out,
the vesselrt being securely frozen in from the period wo quitted.

So rai»idly, indeed, did the ice appear to be uniting in one common
f\oo, that immediato preparations wero made for sending out autunmal
parties with the depots for the southern spring search. The 13th of
September was, indeed, Hxed for starting, but gaps were noticed from
our hill, (one of the highest in this vicinity,) which entirely stopped
our proceedings.

KvcMtiuilly, on tiui 22n(l, I determined on endeavouring to search
closely by the coast line betwotin this and Cape Becher, as our
rapid movement might have caused some little object to pass unnoticed
— not probable.

Tliiw letter was intended to be deposited at the dt>pot there, for
('omnninder Pullen. CircumstaneeH, now to be detaih'd, prevented
our getting more than one thinl of the distanei; ; our return wv had to
be ^niteful for. On tli(^ nu>rnii\g of tlu^ 22nd the Hame HledgcH and
leading oiUeers started on this service, uninrtiniiitely without a boat.
Having reac^hed nnd pitched our tents for tin* third night on an islatjd
iibout twelve nulcs to the stxithward of IVIo\u»t Percy, oreighte<>n iVoni
thr ship, the ice also Im-I raying symptoms of great wcaluicss, bud wenther
set ill, brok(! up the ice, and (Mit us ot!' from conniiiinication with the

THE NORTH-WEST PAS8AOK.

main land for more than a week, reducing us to half allowance, and
materially depressing the spirits of our men. Food we had in a walrus,
which we killed ; also plenty of fuel. But no one knew how long this
imprisonment was to last, and the anxiety too often expressed for very
low temperatures was uncommon in these cold regions. At length qui
wishes were in some measure realized; the comminuted floes froze
once more into ice that bore, and we escaped to tlie main, skirting
its edge, until we gained a safe landing at night, after .sundry un-
pleasant escapes.

Further expeditions this season were cut off, not only by the severity
of the cold, but by the sea maiutaining a temperature which prevoniod
heavy ice from forming.

I now (having retained this letter) proceed to add my observations
on our late cruise. The subject is one which requires but little com-
ment, viz., the visual discoveries of Penny. It is my wish to giv(!
him every credit, for ho is entitled to much for what lie has done. He
has evinced a masterly and vigorous intellect beyond the usual powers
of men not educated for surveying operations. Here, however, I
cease.

It is probable that he saw beyoiid what he had any right to sec, but

our longitudes, &c., will evince not in the right direction. Therefore,

, although I disclaim any mathematical right he has, I willingly give

him up all his possible radius of vision from any point which we can

see, and from which, although never visited by him, we might be seen.

I have, therefore, throwing overboard the true bearing, as well as
the possibility of his seeing our [)oints of (he termination of the
Queen Channel, i-etained the names of Sir John and Lady Franklin
as our turning points (notwithstanding an island intervenes, cutting olf
Cape Bccher at about 12 miles to the southward). The names he has
given may bo scattered over the intermediate points.

On my return the ship was housed in, stores landed, and every pre-
paration made for winter. As it had been intimated to mo that mag-
netic observations on a complete scale during the winter would bo im-
portant, an observatory was constructed on shore, and the declination
magnetometer set up. I am happy to say that volunteers from both
vessels are engaged on this delicate, but tedious, duty, and I trust that
our roconls may be able to tell their own tale.

As my next dispatches will be sent by the spring travelling parties
to meet Captain KciUett to the S.W., and Commander PuUon to the
S.E., I will wait until the period for starting arrives, when I liope in
bo able to statu our prospects and intentions more fully.

I have the honour to be Sir,

Your most obedient servant.,

Edward Belohgu, Ca[)tain,

Commanding Arctic Expedition.

The Secretary of the Admiralty, London.

THE NOUTH-WEST PASSAGE.

H.M.S. North Star, Aug. 12, 1863.

Dear Sir, — You having so gallantly volunteered to lead the party I
propose sending on to Captain Sir E. Belcher, I gladly avail myself of
the offer, and, as time is short and of consequence, I do not enter fully
into detail, merely giving you a few remarks and a light equipment.
You are already acquainted with my views as to the probable spot in
which you will find the Assistance, and Point Hogarth being a prin-
cipal point of rendezvous, make for it as speedily as possible, keeping
as much as you can the eastern shore on board, as I know it is Sir
Edward's intention to travel this way if he cannot get on with tho
ship ; it is, therefore uncertain when he will leave.

There is nothing within a reasonable distance of the shore to pre-
vent a light sledge getting on ; keep a sharp look out, and I hardly
think ho can pass you. You have one of Halkett's large boats ; I
have therefore no fear for your success, for the ice is still heavy in
Wellington Channel, and I hardly think it will break out this month ;
at all events, should you see any signs to suppose such likely to hap-
pen, make for the shore, and use your own discretion as to advance or
retreat. The boat will track well in shore. Captain Inglcfield, it is
possible, may cross you, but it can bo only when well to the north-
ward. However, should such be the case, I advise your going on
together, more especially should he have his largo boat.

Provisions are en cache at Point Bowden and Point Rescue, but I
trust you will reach the Assistance before you are out, and she will bo
apitroaching you. Pray show this to both Sir Edward and Captain
IngleHeld.

Wisthing you God speed and every success,

I remain, yours faithfully,

W. J. 8. PULLEN.

To Lieutenant Bellot.

H.M.S. North Star, Beechey Island, Aug. 20.

Sir, — It is my melancholy duty to inform you that two of my men,
who loft this ship with Lieutenant Bellot, have just returned with tho
sad intelligence of, I fear, his being drowned. Tho particulars of an
examination of tho two men I have entrusted to Lieutenant Crosswell,
who was present at the time. It is in a rough shape ; but being anx-
ious that you shuuld Ix; made acquainted with the nad event, I deemed
it necessary to dispatch him immediately.

The dispatches are saft^ tho nten having brought them back. I
have thorrfore to request your opinion as to whether, from tho state of
the ice in the channel, which Lieutenant Cresswell will inform you of,
it is advisable to dJHpalch another i>arty or not, immediately, to endea-
vour to coininunicate with Sir Edward Belcher.

I have, &c.,

W. J. S. PuLLKN, Commander.

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

H.M.S. North Star, Beechey Island, Aug. 24.

Sir, — Commander Inglefiold having yesterday informed me that it
is his intention to leave as soon as the dispatches can possibly be got
ready, I hasten to close my proceedings in a condensed form up to this
day, forwarding to their Lordships a copy of the same, together with
all dispatches received and every document likely to advance the ser-
vice in which we are engaged.

I forwarded on the 12th inst., by Lieutenant Bellot, the French
officer of the Phoenix^ who had volunteered to conduct a party with
dispatches on to your ship, full accounts of my proceedings since
leaving you ; but, unhappily, and which it is my melancholy duty to
inform you, in the execution of which, by a sudden and unforeseen
disruption of the ice in Wellington Channel, he has lost his life. The
four men who accompanied liim returned to the ship— two on the 20th,
and the remaining two on the 21st, worn out with fatigue and ex-
haustion ; their depositions were immediately taken, a copy of which
I enclose, only remarking that, up to this time, and during their trying
work, they have done their duty well, and speak of Lieutenant Bellot,
although of a different nation, as an officer that they would gladly
follow as their leader. All here feel his loss most acutely ; ho was
well known to us when in the Prince Albert, and I consider it a most
fortunate thing his volunteering to lead the party, for the only officer
I had was away with Captain Ingleficld, myself and Mr. Shellebear
only having returned the previous night. I gave him no orders, merely
a letter of remarks for his guidance (see enclosure), considering his
experience sufficient under nny circumstances. I therefore feel his loss
most painfully, for ho was a good and worthy young man, a credit to
his profession, and, although a foreigner, lias shown such zeal and
energy in the cause wo are engaged in that I should feel myself
honoured in being associated with him in any way.

On the 21st inst., at ten minutes after midnight, the ice in the bay
began to drive out at a rapid rate, taking us with it ; the inshore
piece, however, happily received a check, by which wo held on, and
have since maintained our position off Northumberland-house. The
Phcenix and transport were also observed setting out of the Bay and
off from Cape Riley, where they had been discharging provisions.
The wind at the time was light from the esstward. At 2.15 a.m. of
that morning both vessels got so far to tho westward, and outside
Beechey Island, that we lost sight of them from our deck. At 3.30
the steamer alone was soon again coming to tho eastward, under steam,
but was soon checked by a largo floe-piece. I therefore concluded
sho had left the transport in a safe position, perhaps in Union Bay,
which was clear. At noon she signalized •* Transport is lost," and
we could see from our mast-head that tho steamer herself was completely
surrounded with heavy ice, and their saws at work, as if endeavouring
to cut a dock. In tho evening tho ico cased off, when she reacheil
Capo Kiley, took up a position, and commenced (liHcluu'}j;ing. Tho
next morning, the ice still opening enabled her to roach the fast ico in
this Bay. (Wind northerly at tho time).

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I have discharged all my crew who wished to leave, also those unfit
for Arctic service, together with Mr. M'Cormick, surgeon, and Alston,
mate, who were desirous of returning to England.

An officer and two men were sent on the return of the first two
men to relieve the others, and also examine the state of the jce in
Wellington Channel, and to see if it was practicable, by boat or other-
wise, to communicate with you. Look-outs also from the top of the
Island have been kept, and such is their reports that not only myself,
but Captain Inglefield, consider it imprudent to detach any more par-
ties to endeavour to communicate.

I have acquainted Commander Inglefield with all your orders, wishes,
and intentions, taking from him every available article of provision,
&c., for travelling he could sparc, and necessary for the expedition
under your command.

From the long continuance of east and south-east vnnds, packing
the ice up so much to the westward and on these shores, I fear the
Intrepid will be very late, if able to reach at all. I cannot venture
an opinion on the season at present, merely noting that it is a late one,
and very different from last year. I confidently expect, and am pre-
pared for, being driven out of this the first strong N.W. wind. How-
ever, I hope to be able to return again, even, if so, pnor to your arri-
val ; and, considering all those circumstances, a ship being hero from
England, the lateness of the season, &c., your opinion respecting this
as a winter quarters coinciding with my own from actual experience,
I shall, if you are not here by the 1st of September, if possible, remove
to Gascoine Inlet.

I herewith enclose the copy of a notice set adrift on the 1st of August,
and, in conclusion, regret to say that, having only so lately returned
from travelling, and time being so short, I am unable, at present, to
forward a separate report, as requested by you, relating to the strand-
ing and recovery of the ship.

Three of the men of the late Lieutenant Bellot's party have also
exchanged into the Phcenix, so that we have now almost a new ship's
company. I cannot wonder at so many leaving, for the severe and
heavy work that has fallen to them from the position in which tlie ship
was unfortunately placed, and the actual necessity of being obligcl to
keep them so continuously at it, induce me to think that, if I may so
say it, they are disheartened, and do not like the tliouglits of another
winter. Had it not been tor the good example shown by the executive
ofticers, I hardly think wo should have kept them up to the work. I
cannot refrain from bringing to your favourable notice Mr. Elliott, the
clerk in charge, wliose duties, from every document conncctod with the
expedition passing through this sliip, having to be copied, have not
only been Innvvy. but so continuous that ho has been most unremit-
tingly employed.

1 have the honour to be. Sir, your obedient servant,

W. .1. S. PuLLEN, Commander.
To Captain Sir E. Belcher, C.B., II.M.S. Assistance,
connnanding Arctic expedition. <

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Extract from Sir E. Belcher's Orders.

It is probable that the Assistance will be at or near Cape Bechcr
during the month of August, therefore any dispatches which may ar-
rive are to be forwarded to meet the ship by the east side of the Wel-
lington Channel, calling at Point Hogarth, which will be a principal
rendezvous ; at all events, as the distance on the present position where
the ship may be icebound is not more than four days' easy march, the
officer should be instructed and provisioned to move on and to commu-
nicate with me. Indeed, this duty must be imperative, as the final
determination of my movements must depend on the co-operation of
the external division, should it be found necessary to abandon the ves-
sel next season.

I left the ships well to the eastward of Dundas Isle, and the ice
breaking away fast. Therefore, I think you will meet them well ad-
vanced towards us.

W. J. S. PULLEN.

Copy of Notice set adrift in a Cask.

Set afloat from H.M.S. North Star, lying in Erebus and Terror
Bay, Beechey Island, on the 1st of August, 1853. The ice only
opened out sufficiently tliis day. The North Star was driven on shore
by ice and a heavy south-east gale last September, and only got off
again on the 30th of June, by cutting, blasting, and clearing a space
in the ice to heave her into. No intelligence yet of Sir E. Belcher
in the Wellington Channel. The Resolute and her tender, the In-
trepid, are at Dealy Isle, Melville Island. A party arrived here from
the former on the 30th of May last, with the intelligence of the In-
vestigator being in Mercy Bay, Baring Island, 167 miles from the
Resolule's present winter-quarters. Baring Island is newly discovered
land a continuation of Banks Land. The Investigator has been there
since September, 1851. If not able to get through into Barrow Straits
this season she is to be abandoned, and all hands come on to the Beso-
lute. A party is now away from this ship on another visit to Capo
Becher for intelligence. Any person picking this up, it is requested
it may be forwarded to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London, with
the date when and where found. All well.

W. J. S. PuLLEN, Commander.

Another cask was set adrift with this ; and last September one with
two bottles, each containing a notice. »

Statement of William Harvey, Boatswain's Mate, H.M.S.

''North Star."
Loft the ship on Friday night, tlio 12th of August, 1853, and on-
camp(!d about three miles from Cape Innis.

Second Journey. — Encami)ed about three miles this side of Cape
Bowden, on broken ice.

Third Journey— -After leaving Cape Bowden on Sunday night we
passed u crack about four feet wide, running across the cliunnel ; wc

THE NORTH-WliST PASSAGE.

were then about three miles off shure. After croesing this crack kept
on up channel.

On being asKd as to the state of the ice, replied no doubts were
entertained as to its safety ; and M. Bellot expressed a wish to get up
to a cape, which he said was Grinnell, cheering on the men, saying he
wished to get in-shore to encamp, assisting with his track-belt himself.
On arriving at the open water off Cape Grinnell (?) M. Bellot tried
twice to land in the indiarubber boat, but in consequence of a strong
breeze from S.E., could not succeed. William Harvey, boatswain's
mate, and William Madden, A.B., then both got into the boat, and
reached the shore, taking a line with them for a hauling line each way.
By this means three loads were landed from the sledge ; and the men
on the ice were hauling the boat off a fourth time when Madden, who
was up to his middle in water, with the hauling line in his hand, hailed
M. Bellot, to say the ice was on the move, driving up and off shore.
M. Bellot told him to lot go the line, which he did. Those remaining
on the ice with M. Bellot then ran the boat up to windward on the
sledge, but, the ice being so fast in motion, before they could reach
the wished-for point it had drifted considerably off the shore. I now
went on the high land to watch, and saw them drifting up the channel,
and off the land. I watched in this position for six hours, but lost
sight of them after two hours. When I last saw them the men were
standing by the sledge, and M. Bellot on the top of a hummock. They
appeared to be on good solid ice. Wind at the time from S.E.,
blowing hard, and snowing. After waiting for six hours commenced
our return, (all open water in the channel at this time,) walked round
Griffin Bay with a little provisions, and reached Cape Bowden, where
we remained to take some rest. We had not been there long when
Madden called me, and said two men were coming. I jumped up
inunediately, and liailod them, asking where M. Bellot was ; they
replied that he was gone. On coming up to us Hook said M. Bellot
was drowned. I asked him if he was sure he was ; he said, " He
was almost sure, because he saw his stick in the water, and could not
see him." After this we made the best of our way on board, leaving
them there.

William Madden, A.B., corroborates the above.
" Did you think the ice was dangerous ? — Yes, I certainly did, Sir."
** Why, for fear of breaking through, or breaking off the land ? —
Both, Sir."

" Did you mention your feors to any one ? — No, Sir."
He also states tliat tiicy nmst have been drifted back and got on
shore near the same place where the accident happened.

Statement of WiUium Johnson^ A.B., who was on the ice with

Lieutetuint Bellot.

We got the provisions on shore on Wednesday, the 17th. After
wc had done that there remained on the ice David Hook, A.B., Lieut.
Bellot, and myself, having with us the sledge macintosh awning and

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

little boat. Commenced trying to draw the boat and sledge to tho
southward, but found the ice driving so fast ; left the sledge and took
the boat only, but the wind was so strong at the time that it blew the
boat over and over. We then took tho boat with us under shelter of
a piece of ice, and M. Bellot and ourselves commenced cutting an ice-
house witli our knives for shelter. M. Bellot sat for half an hour in
conversation with us, talking on the danger of our position. I told
him I was not afraid, and that the American expedition were driven
up and down this channel by the ice. Ho roplied, "I know they
were ; and when the Lord protects us, not a hair of our heads shall bo
touched. I then asked M. Bellot what time it was ? He said, " About
a quarter past 8, a.ni. (Thursday, the 18th); and then lashed up his
books, and said he would go and see how the ice was driving. He
had only been gone about four minutes when I went round tho same
hummock under which we were sheltered to look for him, but could
not see him, and on returning to our shelter saw his stick on the
opposite side of a crack, about five fathoms wide, and the ice all
breaking up. I then called out, "Mr. Bellot!" but no answer (at
this time blowing very heavy). After this I again searched round,
but couhl see nothing of him. I believe that when ho got from the
shelter the wind blew him into the crack, and, his south-wester being
tied down, he could not rise. Finding there was no hope of again
seeing Lieutenant Bellot, I said to Hook, " I'm not afraid ; I know
tho Lord will always sustain us." We commenced travelling, to try
to get to Cape do Haven, or Port Phillips ; and, when wo got within
two miles of Cape de Haven, could not get on shore, and returned for
this side, ondv3avouring to get to the southward, as tlie ice was driving
to the northward. We were that night and the following day in coming
acro-fs, and came into the land on the eastt^rn shore, a long way to the
northward of tho place wiiere wo wore driven off. We got into tho
land at what Lieut. Bi^Uot told us was Point Hogarth (?).

"How did you get on shore? — In drifting up the Straits towards
tho Polar Sea saw an iceberg lying close to the sttore, and found it on
the ground. Succeeded in getting on it, and remained tor six hours.
T srtid to David Hook, * Don't be afraid, we must make a boat of a
piece of ice.' Accordingly we got on to a piece passing, and 1 luul a
paddle belonging to the indiarubber boat." On being ttsked what
l)ecame of tlio indiarubber boat, he replied, ** It was left wiierc^ Lieut.
Hellot was loHt." liy tliiH piece of drift ice we managed to reach tho
shore, and then proe(^ed(?(l to whcrc^ tho accident happened. Uea<'lie<l
it on Friday. Could not tlnd our shipnuites, or any provisicms. Wont
on for Cap(^ Bowden, and reached if ()n Friday night. F<Mind Harvey
and Madden (here. Tliey fold us they were going (in to tlie HJiip with
the mail-bag. W(^ rested that night in a nuHerable Nla((>, and in the
morning got Home bread and penuuican out of (he vavhf; and after wo
had refn>Hhed onrH(«lv»<s proceeded to the Hliip.

" What Hort of travelling was it? — Very iiMliHerunt with rcMpeet to
water on llm tloe."

(SlaliH that they were naylng it would be iM'Ifer travelling in tho

tei

Cii

0|)

(>r

ex
an

THE NORTII-WKST l>ASSA<iK.

ftt

middle of tlio channel ; and Lieut. Bcllot, hearing this, said. " It was
Captain Pullcn's orders to keep close to the starboard shore, generally
keeping within two miles").

David Hook, A.B,, corroborates the statement of Johnson.

" What sort of travelling had you on your way up ? — Very bad ; so
mnch deep water on the ice.

"Did yuu feel alarmed on your way up? — No, not in the least
afraid ; I was verj' glad I was going.

" Do you think you could have found a better route ? — No, Sir."

" Do you think there is any hope of Lieut. Bellot being alive ? — No,
Sir, I am sure ho cannot be, for when wo missed him wo could see tho
shore, distant then about four miles."

W. Johnson, A.B., further states, Lieut. Bellot made a remark to
him a short time before ho was lost, saying nothing made him more
happy than to think that he was not on shore, for, knowing ills duty
as an officer, he would see the last danger, adding that he would rather
die hero than be on shore to bo saved.

Commander PuUen's Remarks. — I think I may positively say, that
I can place every confidence in these men's statements, parti(!ularly
Johnson's, who, I am happy to say, not only does liis duty well, but
is a moral and good man. The distances which I have j)laced (pieries
against I consider they are mistaken in, wluch cannot be wondered
at, from their anxiety, fatigue, and working tor their lives ; for tho
distaniH) biMween Point Ilogarth and Cape Bowden is too great for
any nuin to travel in so short a space of time. Their going across the
chanuid to De Haven I do not doubt, for that place they knew well,
having been there before, and close to it they knew was my eachii
of provisions.

W. J. S. Phllkn, Commander,

With Mr. Barrow's permission wo insert the following very in-
terj'resling (hut tjuite a private) letter which he has received from
Ca]>tain Jul let t.

II.M.S. Jtesolutr, Melville Island,
12th A[)ril, (last date 2ml May,) 18/^3.

On the night of tlu^ 14th of August all hands were assembl(>d on
the floe, vvlu'ie we bad prayi'rs. Speechifying and Mcr(>echlng succeeded,
all, I sn|)poHe, in g<Jod order and as it should be. AssistaiitTt in tow of
ISonevr, slipl imiiutliately after, and was soon out of sigh.' up Welling-
ton Chaiinel. (M'CMIntock, who was sent up it tlie night before, found
open water for at least twenty-five miles). Next day, tlie liltli, at
2h. p.m., having taken all I eouhl get from North Star, I left, in tow
of tntrepid, for ('ap(( Ilotliam. We I\)UIhI the ebaniiel, in crosHing it,
exactly af« Parry did; perfectly <'!rar as far as we could see. Amst-
atuT or ISonctr not in sight from our mast-head.

riiri NOUTU-WRST PASHAOE.

■•'I

16th. — At Capo Hotham we were stopped for Hoinc hours. Early
in the morning the ice broke up suddenly, leaving us adrift, and open-
ing a narrow lead close in shore. At this point we had five cairns
in sight at one time. Landed, and found two casks of bread in excel-
lent condition. Left a whale-boat there, complete. In following the
lead along the land, we were frequently in very sluml water. Got
ashore once ; towed off by Intrepid. Wishing to place a depot at
Assistance Harbour, we continued along the land, although there was
water outside. This nearly proved fatal to uh ; for on nearing the
eastern point of the Plarbour, wo got suddenly into shonl water, and
grounded nearly at the top of high water. Flood setting to the west-
ward rapidly. Tide began to fall ; leaving us hard and fost. Got
deck cargo on board Intrepid and landed my dej)ot. I will endeavour
to describe our position, as I think few ships have ever had so severe
a trial, and escaped.

We were resting on our port bilge, on sandy bottom, listing so as to
render it diflicult to walk th(j deck. Head in for the shore, a quarter
of a n\ile off, with seven feet water under our Htern. The only ico
near us was a large floe on western side of Assistance Ihiy, (ai)parently
fast,) and the ico oulsi(h^ us, to which Intn'jnd was made fast. Laid
an anchor out, hove tort on it, and, at 4h. p.m., went below to my
dinner, considering ourselves quite saf(». I had not been down ten
minutes before the officer of the watch came down to tell me that tho
floe in Assistance Bay was adrift and coming down on us fast. Wo
could do nothing but watch its effects. Ttjrned the lmn<ls up, fearing
it might overrun us, not having any escnp(^ under our bottom. Soma
thought it would take us with it off the gi'ound ; others, that we should
bring it iq) : divers opinions. Down it came, took the ship from tho
mainmast aft. She gradually righted, remained upright for a few
seconds, and was then thrown with gn-at violence over on her star-
board I)i1g(>. The masts bent like a r(H>d ; you might have sheep-
shanked the rigging. The ice continued to grind past us, and mounted,
several times, liigher than our gunnel. All hands on tho fl(K>, dragging
the pressed up ice from our side and blasting it with heavy charges.
At length we were a good deal relieved, having been sh'wed more than
JK)° by lh(! heavy pressure. The io(> now took our bow and passed
«|uietly along our m\v. As the water flowed, the ice went off. 7n-
trtpiil CMwv in and took ns in tow. At midnight, after a good deal of
luMiving and tow, we went off by being relioveil of sixty feet of our
false keel, forty of which we picked up.

We now proceeded merrily towards (JrifTlth Island, boring through
loose but heavy ice; the craft getting numy heavy era<!ks. On tho
morning of the 17tli August, sent M'Clintock and Meeham on shore
on 8.W. end of (iriflith Island, to get a vic^w of the ice. Deposited
a reconi tlu're at an old eairn. Keaehed elos(< up to Lowther Island
by midnight; wind strong and H(|ually. Leoked round the south end
of Lowther and made fast, on its western fHci>, to a conqmet and old
(loo, extending in the diret^tion of Yoimgs Island, 'I'liis floe was,
nevertheh'ss, in motion, and at Hi, p.m., on the iHtli, we broke adrift

TItE NOnXII-'W'KST PASSAOI'.

fi'om it. After having drifted easterly with it about three miles, ran
down under the lee of Lowliicr, and worked ahout in a pool of water.
This we continued to do for a couple of days, the men perfectly fagged
out with constant tacking, &c. Fortunately there was a piece of land
floo on the eastern side of the Island ; to this I made fast, sending an
i(!e (luarter-masier, a couple of men, and a tent to keep watch on the
movements of the ice. I went in Intrepid to follow the pack, hoping
it might lead mo in the same direction that Sir E. Parry went ; but
we found it impenetrable and imbroken, after we got within about thive
miles of Youngs Island. Our only hope now was in the direction of
Cornwallis Island. The winds continued strong from north and N.W. ;
carrying or driving to the eastward vast floes. The western side of
Lowthor displayed one of the most awfnlly grand sights that could be
witnessed, and showed what would ho the effect of these immense
bodies of ice in motion. These six feet floes overran one another to a
height of thirty or forty feet. Largo fragments, of many tons, some
on end, others just l)alanccd, were forced up the beach many yards.
A ship would be nothing more than an egg if caught in such a position.
Water to be seen under C/ornwallis Island, but no getting into it; and
I almost made my mind up that Lowther wouhl be our winter quarters,
for easterly I did not intend to go. The 23rd passed, (the very day
Parry left Heechey Island in 1H19,) nn»l no alteration. On the morn-
ing of the 2Hth, accoujpanied by M'Clintock and Meeham, I went to
tii(^ top of tij(^ Island. There was an apparent lead into the water
under Cornwallis Island, with the exception of a short nip. Wo cast
olF and made prcpuralions to assail this gentleman with lire. He, It
was not necessary ; for, aided by a fresh and fair breeze, wo bored
through it at the expense of some heavy blows. I suppose there is
some limit U> what these ships will stand, but we <lo not know it. At
5h. p.m., we got into the open water abv it eight miU's west of Grif-
lith Island. I>i passing Grillith on the 17th, lucre was fast ice between
it aiul Cape Martyn: now there was not a bit to be seen. Hero wo
pi(^ked up a strong north wind, with which we proceeded westerly,
passing between Hrown and Sonuncrville, whore we experienced a
lieavv sw(*ll : a sure indication of open water.

Wo now went merrily along the land, and reached Point Cockburn
At 2h. p.m. on the 'J})th, where I hinded a depot, and just got past the
point before the ice set <»n it. I had an anxious night ofl'this point, wind
luMiding us oir, and V(^ry strong. In th<< int(>rva'.s of eU-ar between tho
snow show(<rrt could see (he huiumncks of the Point, with a strong ice
blink north and south of us. We had three hours night there. Tho
morning cleared up and b(>canie calm. Towing westerly through a
flue op(>u lead of live miles width, passing between humnux'ks I thought
aground on the shoal dcscrilK-d by Parry. At Ih, ii.m., 31st August,
reached the s(»utli point of Hyani Miirlin Islaiul ; where we wern
stopped. Made fast, (^ast olf to keen in open water. Made my
mind up to cut into tlio fust Hue (extending from (iraham Moore Hay
t() Hyaiu Martin) near some humuioeks on east point ol" the I»l«n«l.
Ran down to look at tlii^ posilioii and worked back ii^niii, ns them
weri' inilicalions of a northerly wind. At 7h. n.m. oji the Ist Septom-

THE NORTH-WEST PA6SAOK.

ber the wind shifted to N.W. ; ice cased off Point Gilman. We took
advantage of it and, after a sharp beat up the west side of the Island,
got into a fine open IcaH, due west, sailing our course. And at 3h.
40n). p.m., wo sighted Melville Inland ; M*Clintock making the signal
" I wish you joy." On the 2nd, at 3h. a.m., landed a dep6t at Point
Griffith, and proceeded, working along the land ; wind too strong for
towing. Parry's description of this coast is so faithful, that we could
recognise if not the same hummocks others certainly in their positions.
About 3h. p.m., we were again in tow, as the ice was very close on
Point Ross, and evidently closing as the wind lightened. All glasses
were at work. Soon, a herd of ten musk oxen were seen on west
side of Beverly Inlet. We passed this Inlet, and were stopped about
five miles west of Point Palmer ; where we made fast. Here, again,
I thought we had arrived at the end of our navigation. Went in In-
trepid to examine Beverly Inlet. Got on shore on a spit running off
Point Palmer. Went off' in an hour. Found Skene Bay well pro-
tected and well adapted for winter quarters ; five fathoms within fifty
fathoniH of tlie beach. Here I fully determined to place the ship if
the ice did not open in a day or two. Young ice very strong. Two
musk oxen nhol in the morning, and, after I returned, a herd of eight
were seen. Permission was given to go after them ; they w(!re all
shot, bulls, cows, and calves. All Bridport Inlet appeared to be clear
of 'ce, and ri<;lit up to Capo Bounty ; but no means of getting into it.

We were detained in tliis position until noon of the Gth, when the
ice streamed off', leaving us a passage of half a mile into the water in
Bridport Inlet. PusHcd Cape Bounty at 5h. p.m., and, after a very
unpleasant anxious night, working between pack and land ice, made
fast, at 5h. a.m., 7th September to land Hoe, off* Wint^-r Harbour, four
miles from the sandstone. The wind wan so strong and the floe edgo
breaking away so fast, that we had great difficulty in holding on.
Nevertheless, I managed, in the evening, to land a small ship depAt
and dep<1ts for n)v travelling parties in the spring. Finding that I
could not wintoi there in sai'ety, on the morning of the Sth, I proceeded
easterly, intending to go into Skene Bav. At 9h. p.m. we reached
and made fast in our old position, five miles west of it, having been a
good deal impeded by sludge and young ice ; a calm for a few hours
would have fixed us anywhere.

9th September. — Proceeded in tow for Skene. To my great dis-
appointment, found it i»erieetly blocked with ice. Having no time to
hise, wo again tinned our heads wtoierly and, very fortunately, just
fteraped through into Hi-idport Bay. Hie wlioh* of this bay was clear,
and north of Dealy Island to the mouth of the Inlet. The position
nori!: nf the Island would have been safe, but I feared I might not
break out soon in tli<^ sununer. Finding sufficient water alongside an
old fioo running from Dealy Island easterly to the main, I dt^termined
to cut into it, and make it our resting place for the winter. Both
vesseU cut in l/XOyanls; heads to th(< N.N. W. (true), and separaUnl
about 1(K) yards; our dii^tance from Dealy Island 940 yards. On
the I Ith we were frozen in.

On the loth, M'Clintock started with a curt and three days' provi-

saiil

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

sions to reconnoitre the route across the land, as vre proposed, if prac-
ticable, to search the north west of the island. He returned, and left
again in two days with a depdt ; returned again in fourteen. Started
again and returned in eighteen days, having deposited at Point Nias,
in Hecla and Griper Bay, more than a ton of provisions and stores
with a cart. This was a most arduous piece of work, well and cleverly
performed, without accident; his people looking better than when
they started. Trusting a good deal to Providence, I commenced land-
ing deck cargo, boats, and stripping ship and lashing spars for housing.

Considering wo wore well fast, and that the ice was strong enough
along the coast to bear sledge travelling, I despatched five sledges to
the westward, to place there depots for Spring operations, on the
morning of the 22nd September, under the following officers, and on
the following routes.

Lieutenant Mecham, ten man sledge, Mr. Narcs, Mate, six man sledge,
auxiliary. — South-west Melville ; to cross the land at Winter Harbour.

Lieutenant Pim, seven man sledge. — To place depot at Capo Dundaa
for search of west Banks Land.

Lieutenant Hamilton, seven man sledge. — To place dep6t at Point
Hay, for search of east Banks Land.

M. DeBray, (Ensign do Vaissoau,) seven man sledge, auxiliary. —
To Litmtenants Pirn and Hamilton.

With considerable labour in crossing the land, Lieutenant Mecham
placed his depot at Point Hoppner ; bringing back his party all well
after an absence of twenty-flvo days.

Lieutenant Pim placed his at Capo Providence, not being able to
get farther west, the shore bein^^j clear of ice.

liieutonant Hamilton placed liis at Cape Hay. His slodge broko in,
and was only saved by tlie activity of his crew ; a narrow escape from
a very Horious accident. All his bedding and clothing got wet and
wore, of course, frozen as hard as steel. Yet still his cn^w nobly pre-
ferred proceeding to returning leaving their work unfinished ; all
came back with a few slight nips.

Lieuttmant Mecham, on liia return through Winfci* Harboiu", viHif«(l
the sandstone, and found on it a record left by Captain M'Clure in
May, 1852, w..li a chart of his discoveries. I think you will rea<l
with intttrest his despatches, and will exclaim, as I did, when you como
to this paragraph, •• Any attempt to send succour would only bo to
increase the evil," what a noble fellow! As you may Huppost>, I was
aiuioyed at not finding this record myself when at Winter Harbour.
Not that I (umld have duni^ anything. The strait was too niut^h broken
u[> to attempt to eoniniunieat'<« with stedg<^s ; no boat navigation prac-
ticable at that season, on account of young ice ; and not open <>nougti
for ships. It is beautiful to see how exactly M'Cture has completed
all that was l(>ft by Austin and Ua«s and how exactly their work joins.

Osborne and Mr. Winnyat both commenced their return on tho
same day, and only soparatetl about twenty niilcM.

M'Clure has actually dmove red the NortU-iyest PasHayv Somt-

TH1% NOKl II- WEST TASSAOK.

thing in the annals of our country ; achieved by the industrious perse-
verance of one of her own officers, who I hiope will bo considered worthy,
and receive marks of high distinction. You should write this circuni.
stance in red letter in your record.

To this expedition is still left a fine field. I hope we may be able
to make our efforts too worthy of a red letter record.
This concludes our summer and autumn campaign.

Wg commenced our winter by losing suddenly on the 20th October
Thomas Mobley, a marine, a most excellent man ; his complaint,
disease of the heart.

10th November. In coming from Intrepid, my attention was ar-
rested by a noise like the rushing of strong winds in squalls, which
continued all night and part of next day ; the wind moderate at S.W.,
with thick weather. On clearing up, we were astounded to find that
the noise was occasioned by the crushing of tlie ice a short half mile
astern of us. When the old floe came in contact with the young floe
(not more than a foot thick) it broke it in pieces of three feet square,
and raised them in a wall of fifteen to twenty feet. The nip extended
etist and west about two miles. From the summit of Doaly Island, it
put me in mind of some of the very much enclosed parts of Ireland,*
minus the emerald green.

We now (iOth November) completed our housing in. Put snow
nine inches thick on the decks, and macadamized it with a mixture of
snow, gravel, and water ; which matle a sohd rough coating all over.
With blocks of snow, we built a wall round the ship, four feet from
lier side, which was filled in with snow as high as her decks.

Our school was organized under the Master and Purser.

Our first theatrical performance took place on 23rd November. I
never saw anything better done; dresses magnificent. It was an
affair of a month's pre[)aration, and a nine days wonder after.

On the 12th December, we unfortunately lost, from consumption,
a most excellent man belonging to Intrepid, named George Drover.
In the early part of the winter wo ha<l a few very severe pulmonary
coses; very similar to that described by Middle ton in Hudson Bay,
and cured by the same treatment.

22nd Dec. We liad a soiree fantasti<[ue, with tricks in legerdemain, and
songs, on board Intrepid. All In great glee; not a man on the sick list.

Our aecojid and last i)lay came ofi' on the Ist February. The men
[Mjrforming "Raising the Wind," and the ofllcers •• Kiisg GlumnuH."
as after y\wi\ ; the \\\\\vv took amazingly.

A second affair of Wizard of th() North, with mngie lanthorn, on
board Intnpid, eont'liided otir theatricals. Wo really had not time for
moi-e. Our whole time engrossed with jjreparations for travelling ; a
perfect mania. Nothing spok(<n of bnl redu(^tion of constant weights.
Some reduiH'd their meilieine cheats; M'l'lintock his pickaxe, he even
fouinl out that the preserved meat tins held, instead of fotir jiounds,
at which they are issued, marly four poinids and a half.

* The y-Unw \\\\\U.

THJi NOllTU-WEST PA8SAGK.

In consequence of M'Clurc having done all south of us, my parties
required re-organizing. The following is the programme : —

South-west Melville. — Lieutenant Mecham, auxiliary Nares, 14
men, 156 provisions for 8 men.

North-west Melville. — Commander M'Clintock, auxiliary DeBray,
18 men, 146 provisions for 10 men.

Lieutenant Hamilton and Roche, with their crews of 14 men, to
place a depot for me on north shore, to search N.E. Sabine Island.

Hamilton, when he returns, to take Byam Martin Channel and ren-
dezvous ; and Mr. Roche the Lame Ducks to Beechey Island depot,
with Domville's news from Banks Land, and to remain there.

Lieutenant Pirn and Doctor Domville. — Early party for Banks Land
(Harbour of Mercy), 9 men and 6 dogs.

On the morning of the 10th of March calm and fine, temperature
very low — 50. Lieutenant Pim and Domville, nine men and six dogs,
assisted by Mr. Rocho and ten men, left for Banks Land. Three miles
from the ship Pirn's sledge broke down ; sent him on with another,
which also proving weak, he sent the dogs back for another. Ho
encam|>ed within about eight miles of the ship. A furious northerly
gale came on during the night, which detained them in their tents for
four days. This was the earliest, and with the lowest temperature
that travelling has been attempted in these regions before. I commu-
nicated with them on the fourth day ; all well. No accident of conse-
quence; a nipped finger, face, or ear the greatest. On the 14th they
made another start, assisted as far as Point Hearne by a 10-man sledge.
Dogs doing wonders. One man sent back; another went on in his place.
The weather continuing beautifully fine and mild ; temperature zero.

On Monday, 4th April, we made our grand start, in two divisions.
Mecham, with a fair wind, westerly. Conunander M'Clintock, Ha-
milton, DeBray, Rocho, and myself, northe ^y, with five sledges and
thirty-pine men. Master, purser, boatswain, and carpenter, with five
men who could not travel, were left on board Resolute. Master, assistant
surgeon, two engineers, and four men who could not travel, were left
on board Intrepid. On Sunday I read prayers, and made a short
address to the men, which they appeared to understand. I hoped they
would leave little for any one to do coming aft^r us, and that they
would render the expedition (by their exertions) so remarkable, that
every }H.>rson would feel proud in having belonged to it. We will do
our best, w»w their response, and they will I am convinced. As there
was not niaiiy to cheer us, we cluiered one another and parted. I ac-
companied M'(.'lint(>(:k and my depot sledges out for three days and a
half, to nmnl tiieni thr(aigii their greatest dilHculties. This brought
us to the t«)p of the island, and clear of the heavy dragging ice, and
out of ravines. There I left theuj, as they were (ili'iged to encamp in
a strong North wind. I reached the ship on the seventh day, having
iH'en eonflncd to the tent for two in a heavy gale from North. Tho
number of mon we \\w\ tdgcther greatly faeilitated our journey. In
Home of the passes out of the ravines 1 was obliged to clap all hands
{'.\\i men) on to oiu> sledge. Tliin madt^ tlu^ work light and rapid, but
even with this number we had to 1, 2, 1^ haul frequently.

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I have been a long time at sea, and seen various trying services, but
never have seen (for men) such labour, and such misery after. No
amount of money is an equivalent. The travelling parties ought to
have some honorary and distinctive mark ; the captain of the sledge
something better than the others. Men require much more heart and
stamina to undertake an extended travelling party than to go into
action. The travellers have their enemy chilling them to the very
heart, and paralyzing their limbs ; the others the very contrary. I
should like to see the travelling men get an Arctic medal. I would
gladly give £50 towards it, and I am sure every Arctic officer would
be anxious to subscribe, but to be of value it ought to be presented by
the authority of Her Majesty.*

This concludes my narrative until Domville's return, which I look
for anxiously every hour. In the mean time I shall add any remark I
may think of.

Our provisions are all of the best quality. We by some mistake
sailed rather short of preserved meats. It was supposed North Star
had them, but no, they went back to Deptford.

Game was plentiful in tlio autumn. Musk oxen remain with us all
the winter ; one was shot in March. You cannot fancy a man wishing
for a good tough beefsteak, but after preserved meats there is a great
pleasure in getting between your teeth something to bite. The venison
eaters of England ought to come here for it ; nothing can exceed a
haunch of a good reindeer buck, tender, and highly flavoured. Hares
were shot in winter, and four or five ptarmigan, with full crops and in
good condition, a fine cock weighing two pounds and a half.

Our winter has been comparatively a very cold one, with a great
deal of wind. For several days together we had the thermometer down
to — 50, for some hours — 57, and for a considerable time the mer-
cury frozen.

1 7th April. Lieutenant Hamilton returned, having left M'Clintock
fairly started on the floe to the north-west ; all his party in high spirits.
The forty miles over the land takes more out of the men than five times
that distance on the floe, particularly if they have preserved meats in
lieu of pemmican. With preserved meats they can not do half the
work, and fall away to thread papers, whereas with pemmican they can
work well, and it keeps their stamina up.

19th April, 1853. This is really a rod letter day in my voyage,
and shall be kept as a liolidav by my heirs and successors for ever.
At 9 o'clock of tins day our look-out man made the signal for a party
coming in from the westward. All went out to meet them and assist
them in. A second party was then seen. Doctor Domvillo was the
first person I met. I cannot doscribo to you my feelings when ho told
mo that Captain M'Clure wa,s amom/at the nvnt party. I was not long
in reaching him, and giving him many hearty shakes. No purer were
ever given by two men in the world.

* Tliu promwiil ofiui Arctic mcdiil in no now idoii, having been repeatedly
talkud of, Wu sliuuid Ihi glud tu hcu it utirriud out.

Ill

TIIK NOttTlI-WEST PASSAGE.

M'CIure looks well, but is very hungry. His description of Pirn's
reaching the Harbour of Mercy would have been a fine subject for the
pen of Captain Marryatt, wore he alive.

M'Clure and his First Lieutenant were walking on the floe. Seeing
a person coming very fast towards them, they supposed he was chased
by a bear, or had seen a bear. Walked towards him. On getting
within a hundred yards they could see from his proportions that he
was not one of them. Pirn began to screech and throw up his hands,
his face as black as your hat. This brought the captain and lieutenant
to a stand, as they could not hear sufficiently to make out his language.
He was a considerable way ahead of his sledge — a solitary man, and
that man as black as Old Nick. M'Clure says he would have turned
and run if he had seen a tail, or a cloven foot. At length Pim reached
the party, quite beside himself also. Stammered out, on M*Clure asking
him, who are you, and where are you come from ? " Lieutenant Pim —
Herald — Captain Kellett." This was more inexplicable to M'Clure,
as I was the last person he shook hands with in Behring Strait. He
at length found that the solitary stranger was a true Englishman ; an
angel of light he says. He soon was seen from the ship. They had
only one hatchway open. The crew were fairly jammed there in their
endeavour to get up, to see — they did not know what. The sick jumped
out of their hammocks, and the crew forgot their despondency ; in
fact, all was changed on board Investigator. One man had unfortu-
nately died, by accidentally poisoning himself, the morning of Pirn's
reaching here. On the 15th of April M'CUu'e had thirty men and
three officers fully prepared to leave for the depot at Point S[)encer.
What a disappointment it, would have been to them to find the miser-
able Mary yacht and four or five casks of provisions, instead of a fine
largo depot. Another party of seven were to have gone by M'Kenzie,
with a request to the Admiralty to send out a ship to meet him at Port
Leopold in 1834. The thirty men are on their way over to me now.
I shall, if possible, send them on to Beechey Island, with about ten men
of my own crew. To be taken homo the first opportunity.

The seven remain by the ship. Investigator will now have thirty-
five men, officers, and all. I nmst stay here myself another winter, if
Investigator does not break out this year. But Intrepid will go, please
God, direct to England, with half Investigator* s crew, and the portion
of mine sent to Beechey Island.

She nmst bo sent back to me again in 1854, with a transport fViU of
provisions. Solids, preserved meats, vegetables, pemmican, (a large
qtiantiti/f some tons, ten at leasl,J blankets, mits, wigs, mocassins, 8(c.
Intrepid, with M'Clintock her captain. The Lady Franklin and
Sof. \ia,* filled with grub and fuel. I feel satisfied with a Uttle assist-
ance from a large steamer (Desperate) beyon<l the Orkneys, and
starting on the 10th of June the Lady Franklin and Sophia might bo
in England again by the same date in October, having deposited their

* Thcuo two veuoU wcro sold to Captain Penny, who lias proceeded with
thcin to Ciimborhuul Htrait*.

THE NOnTll-WEST PASSAGE.

provisions at Beechey Island. Failing getting to Bccchey, they wotilil
bo certain to reach Port Dundas, on North side of Straits. North
Star is really no depot, if Port Leopold was not so near her, having
not a single ounce more than three years for herself. Provisions must
be sent to Beechey Island next year, or we shall run short.

2nd May. Investigator* s second party, consisting of Lieutenant
Cresswell, Wyniiiatt, Mr. Piers, and Mr. Miertsching, arrived, bring-
ing two men on their sledge. They made an extraordinary passage
across, for men in their state. The greater part of them are affected
with scurvy, but are rapidly improving.

I have given M'Clure, who lias been with me for fourteen days,
orders to desert his ship, if the medical officers arc of opinion they
cannot stand another winter, or if there are not twenty volunteers to
remain. M'Clure is in capital health. I cannot explain to you my
feelings on shaking hands with him. You will find from his dispatch
his, on Pirn's meeting him on the floe. I thought I had the best officers
the navy could produce in the Herald. My present are certainly their
equals. Nothing can exceed their zeal. My only duty has been to
restrain within proper limits, and to direct it. I hope his Grace will
not have forgotten my request on his leaving the Resolute, the pro-
motion of Lieut. TroUope,* who has himself so well served his country,
and whose relations have done the same. Mr. Richards, my clerk in
charge, I hope may be thought of ; he is an old and worthy officer.
M'Clintock has really been my second, but he will have to come
again for me.

I intended to have written to Colonel Colquhoun, giving an account
of our experiments with powder in blasting the ice. With light ice,
three feet thick, I found small charges of four or five pounds most
effective. The 201bs. charge simply blows out a hole, but with the
heavy polar ice of 72 feet thick, M'Clure used as much as 2501b. in
one charge, and with great success. He recollected, when in great
difficulty, the Colonel telling him, use lOOlbs. This saved his ship.
He called, therefore, the point near him Colquhoun Point.

Notenda. — Gimcracks on board Resolute : Mr. somebody's machine
for driving pure air into the ship ; Mr. galvanic batteries ; bal-
loons ; kites. Wo have too largo a proportion of sails ; not enough
leather for soles. Sleeping bags should bo made up in bales ready
made. A larger proportion of stcarino should be supplied. Mr. Dale s
cooking machines have been very carelessly made.

I must now conclude, as my party is roa<ly for a start : beautiful
weather, temperature +6. "May your shadow never bo less," is the
wish of your faithful friend,

Henry Kbllktt.

• This officer lins boon nroiiiotetl, and npnointod to the commuiid of the
Rattlesnake, now cmployeu in active service in Mcliriiig Straits.

TIIK NOUTFI-WEST PASSAGE.

,, made
a short

[Having completed the dispatches of Sir Edward Belcher and
Captain Inglefield we now proceed v.rith those of Captain M'Clure
whicli, as containing the narrative of the first officer who has made
the N.W. Passage to the N.E., we give without any abridgement
whatever. J

Abstract of the proceedings of iier Britannic Majesty's discovery
sliip Investigator since parting company with the Herald, upon the
31st of July, 1850, off Cape Lisburne: —

At 6.50 a.m., Aug. 2nd, in hit. 72° 1' N., long. 166° 12' W
the ice, which did not appear heavy ; but upon entering it
distance was undeceived and ran out.

5th. — In running along the pack edge, endeavouring to find an
opening, exchanged numbers with the Plover, and at 1 1 a.m. made a
low shingle beach to the eastward of Wainwright Inlet, and at mid-
night rounded Point Barrow in three and one-third fathoms, but, from
the foggy state of the weather, did not see it.

8th. — 1.45 a.m., being off Point Drew, sent Mr. Court, second-
master, and Mr. Miertsching, interpreter, to deposit a notice of our
having passed, who met some Esquimaux that had arrived three days
previous. These trade with the Russians, and were very friendly,
therefore sent a letter with the chance of it reaching the Admiralty.
We also heard from tliem that last year three boats had passed to the
eastward with white men and Indians, which was, most probably,
Lieutenant PuUen. In the evening erected a cairn and buried another
notice at Point Pitt.

9th. — Passed the Colvile, about forty miles from its entrance, in
three fathoms and a half.

11th. — Deposited a notice upon Jones Island, which was thickly
strewed with driftwood. In tlie forenoon two baidars, containing
twenty-four natives, came alongside. The chief possessed a gun, with
" Barnet, 1840," on the lock, obtained from the Russians. Bartered
tobacco for salmon and ducks. In the afternoon communicated with
another party, who were exceedingly intelligent and clean. Sent
dispatches for the Admiralty via Colvile, and, from what the inter-
preter states, believe they will arrive.

12th. — Several baidars came alongside. Received fish and ducks
for presents of beads and tobacco. These are adroit pilferers.

14th. — Ran upon a shoal eight miles north of Yarborough Inlet,
having, during the last two days, narrowly escaj)ed 8ev^ra^)f these
dangerous banks, which an; very little above the waterfalTO hidden
from view by the ice. Hove off with tiio stream anchor, but unfor-
tunately upset a whale-boat and lost eleven casks of beef, having to
carry sail to prevent being set again on shore.

15th. — P\)und it impossible to get two miles in any direction, the
ice having closed from the northward, resting upon the shoals in that

THE NORTH-WEST I'ASSAGE.

direction, and to the southward, the low banks which we grounded
upon yesterday. Anchored to await some favourable change.

16th. — Ice to the northward of the shoals slightly eased leaving
about 150 yards of open water. Weighed and warped through two
cables' length of the ice to get into it, which occupied six hours' of
hai'd labour, so heavy was the pack.

I7th. — At noon the weather, which had been foggy, cleared with
a breeze from N.E. ; made sail through heavy sailing ice, occasionally
striking violently ; navigation along this coast very dangerous, the
sand-banks being low and numerous. Lat. 70° 30' N., long. 1 48° 4' W.

21 St. — Made the Pelly Islands off' the Mackenzie. Since the 17th
have encountered very heavy ice ; ran ninety miles into a bight, which
brought us to the solid pack ; fortunately we were enabled to run out
of it before it closed.

24th. — Observing some huts a little to the westward of Point
Warren, sent dispatches for the Admiralty, with the hopes of their
being forwarded by the Hudson's Bay Company ; this tribe, however,
have no traffic with them, but barter with others further west that
trade with the Colvile, giving as their reason that the Hudson's Bay
Company had givca the Indians water which had killed many of them,
and that they did not wisli to have any : they appear savage and war-
like, and are at enmity witii their neighbours. Brought the dispatches
back.

30th. — Observing a post erected on the beach near Point Maitland,
in Liverpool Bay, sent to examine it, and deposit a notice of our
passing. Found it was an Esquimaux mark, who apparently had
recently (luitted it, there being several caches containing birds and
fish. In the afternoon, while approaching Cape Bathurst, observed
Esquimaux on the shore. Upon communicating with them found that
they belonged to a irilo now at Cape BathursI, who were catching
whales, and the same who had seen Sir J. Richardson last year. In
the evening, being thick, and getting into three and a half fathoms,
anchored between Baillie Islands and the main land.

31 St. — Proceeded to Cape Bathurst. Tribe consisted of 300, very
friendly j would go south in three weeks ; gave them dispatches for
the Admiralty, a gun and ammunition to the chief, and many presents
among tiiemselves, and, judging from their intelligence and cleanly
appearance, have great expectation of their reaching.

Sept. 1st. — Oft' Cape Bathurst; many natives came on board, and
being nearly calm, remained until the evening, when a breeze spring-
ing up, we took our final leave of the Esquimaux upon the American
coast, fully convinced that neither the ships nor any of the crews of
Sir John Franklin's expedition have ever reached their shores. They
appear a quiet inoffensive people (with tiio exception of these at Point
Warren, wliich the Capo Bathurst tribe have no dealings wiUi) and
would assist any white people thrown among them.

The whole of this coast is shallow, but, with the lead, may bo safely
navigated, the soundings being very regular. The shoals terminate

\f: )

CAPE BATHURST.

and

about thirty miles to the eastward of Yarborough Inlet, and water,
varying in breadth from one mile to forty, may be calculated upon
along shore, between the beginning of August and 10th of September,
according to the winds more or less ice encumbered, but the natives
state that every year the ice opens from the shore. We found the
prevailing winds from E.S.E. to N.E.

6th. — At 1 1 .80 a.m., being to the northward of Cape Parry, re-
marked high land from N.b.E. to E.N.E.

7th. — At 9.30 a.m. landed and took possession of the discovery,
and named it Baring Island. The land is bold upon the southern side,
being upwards of 1000 feet in height, its northern being Banks Land.
Erected a signal-pole with black ball, and left a notice in lat. 71° 8' N.,
long. 122° 48' W.

9th. — Observed land N.N.E. Named it Prince Albert Land, which
is continuous with Wollaston and Victoria Land, and extends north
to lat. 73° 21' N., long. 112° 48' W.

11th. — Ship beset, lat. 72° 52', long. 117° 3' W., but ice in motion.

Oct. 8th.— -Since the 11th of last month have been drifting in the
pack — narrowly escaped destruction several times— until, with a heavy
nip, at 3 a.m. this day, which listed the sliip 34 degrees, we were firmly
fixed for Ihe space of nine months in lat. 72° 47', long. 117° 34'.

10th. — -Took possession of Prince Albert Land, distant four miles.

13th. — And to-day of the Princess Royal Isles, lying in the centre
of the Prince of Wales Strait, distant four miles from the ship. There
is erected a large cairn, pole, and ball upon its summit, in lat. 72° 46'
N., long 117° 44' 10" W., and hate deposited three months' provisions
for sixty-six men, besides leaving a boat and some ammunition.

21st. — The Captain, Mr. Court, and party, started to trace the
Strait towards the north-east.

26th,— -Discovered the entrance into Barrow Strait in lat. 73° 30'
N., long. 114° 14' W., which establishes the existence of a north-west
passage.

30th. — Five musk oxen shot upon Prince Albert Land, which ter-
minated our opei'ations in 1850.

April 18th, 1851. — This day dispatched three travelling parties to
search the coast line ; under Lieutenant Haswell, to the south-east,
towards Wollaston Land, Lieutenant Cresswell in the direction of
Banks Land, and Mr. Wynniatt, Mate, to the north-east ; who respec-
tively reached the position as noted below,* and traced the coast as
per accompanying chart.

June 2nd. — Captain and Mr. Miertsching (the interpreter) commu-
nicated with the Esquimaux upon Prince Albert Land, about sixty
miles south of our position, who had previously Ix'on mot by liieiitenant
Ilaswell. They traced the coast lino as marked in ihi chart, and
state that there are many of their tribes inhabiting the Inml towards

* Lieutenant llaswel!, lat. 70° 88', long. 115°; Licutonani Cresswell, lat.
74" Ifl', long. 117^40' W.; Mr. Wynniatt, lat. 7"2"0' N., long. 117° 42' D.R.

THE NORTH-WEST rA8SA<iE.

the south ; but that they know of none to the northward. They arc
a kind, simple people people, and have never before seen the white
man, at whom they were evidently alarmed.

July 1 4th. — Ice opened without any pressure, and the vessel was
again fairly afloat, but so surrounded with it, that we only di'ifted
witli the pack, having been able to use our sails but twice, and then
only for a few hours, up to August the 1 4th, when we attained our
furthest northern position in Prince of Wales Strait, lat. 73° 14' 19",
long. 115° 32' 30'^ W.

Aug. 16tli — Finding our passage into Barrow Strait obstructed by
north-east winds setting largo masses of ice to the southward, whicn
liad drifted the ship fifteen miles in that direction during the last
twelve hours, bon; up to run to the soutliward of Baring Island.

20th.— Lat. 74° 27' N., long. 122° 32' 15" W. Have had clear
water to rencli thus far, running within a mile of the coast the whole
distance, when our progress was impeded by the ice resting upon the
shore. Secured to a large grounded floe-piece in twelve fathoms.
Ice appears to have but recently been detached from this coast.

29tli. — Ship in great danger of being crushed or driven on shore
by the ice coining in with heavy pressure from the Polar Sea, driving
her along within 100 yards of the land for half a mile, liecling her
fifteen degrecK. and I'aisiiig her bodily one foot eight inches, when wo
a^':(ain became stationary and the ice quiet.

Sept. lOlh. — Ice again in motion, and ship driven from the land
into the main pack, with iicavy gale from the S.W.

11th. — S'icceeded in getting clear (►f tlie j)ack, and secured to a
large grounded Hoc. Lat. 74° 2i>' N., long. 122° 20' W.

19th. — Clear water iilong shore to the eastward, cast ol! and worked
in that direction, with occasunial cbstructions and several narrow es-
capes froni the stupendous Polar ice, until the evening of the 23rd,
when we ran upon a mud-bank, hiiviiig six feel water under the bow
and five fathoms astern ; hove oil' without sustaining any damage.

24th. — At daylight, observing Barrow Straits full ot ice, and large
masses s(>tting into this bay, determined upon making this our winter
(piartcrs, and iinding a well sheltered spot upoi: the south side of the
shoal upon which we last night ground(>d, ran in and anchored in four
fathoms, lat. 74° (>' N., long. 117^' 54' VV. This night wen* frozen in,
and have not since moved. The position is most excellent, being well
protei'tt'd from the heavy ice by the projection of the reel', which
throws it clear of the ship (iOO yiirds.

Tlu! etu'i'ents iihtng the coasts ol' the i'olar Sea ap|»ear to be in-
lluenced in their ilirection, more or less, by the winds j but, certainly,
u|)on the west side of Baring Island, th(<ro is a pernuineni set to the
easlward. At one time we I'oinid it as nnieh as two knols during a
porfeel culm ; and lli.it the flooti tide sets iVom the westward we have
asrortiviiMMJ beyond n doubt, as tin* opportunities atl'onh.'d dming our
<letention along the western shore of this island gave ample proot.

The prevailing winds along the American shore, and in the Prinet

rUlNCE OF WALKS STRAIT.

«l

a.*
t

of Wales Strait, we found to be N.E., but upon this coast S.S.W. to
N.W.

A ship stands no chance of getting to the westward by entering
the Polar Sea, the water along shore being very narrow and wind
contrary, and the pack impenetrable, but through Prince of Wales
Strait, and by keeping along the American coast, I conceive it prac-
ticable. Drift wood is in great abundance upon the east coast of
Prince of Wales Strait, and on the American shore ; also, much game.

In this vicinity tlio hills abound in reindeer and hares, which remain
the entire winter : wo have been very fortunate in procuring upwards
of 40001b.

The health of the crow has been and still continues excellent, with-
out any diminution of nuuiber, nor have we felt the slightest trace of
scurvy.

It is my intention, if poHsiblo, to return to England this season,
touching at Melville Island and Port Leopold ; but should we not bo
again Inward of, in all probability we shall have been carried into the Polar
pack, or to the westward of Melville Island, in either of which to at-
tempt to »(?nd succour would only be to increase the evil, as any ship
that enters the Polar pack must be inevitably crushed ; therefore, a
depot of provisi(»iiH, or a ship at winter harbour, is the best and only
certainty for the safety of the surviving crew.

No trace whatever has been met with, or any information obtained
from the natives, whicii could by any possibility lead to the supposition
that Sir J. Franklin's expedition, or any of his crews, have ever yet
reached tlie slutrcs we have vi(*ited or searched ; nor havi^ we been
more for(iinat«* with respect to the ICnterprise, not having seen her
since parting company in the Straits of Magellan on the 2()th April,
1850.

This notice was deposited by a travelling party in April, 18.52, con-
sisting of C!aptain M'Clure, Mr. Court, second master j John Calder,
captain of the forecastle ; Serjeant Woon, Koyal Marines ; George
Gibbs, A.B. ; George liounsall, A.B. } tlohn Davis, A,1J. ; and Peter
Thumpson, captain (»f the foretop.

Whoever finds this it is reipiested it may be forwarded to the Se-
cretary of tiie Admiralty.

Dated on board lI.ll.M. discovery ship InvtutHqatory fntzen In, In
tlie Bay of Meixy, lat. 74° «' N., long. 1 17" 54' W., April 12, IH/J2.

Uoiticitr M'Cli'uk, Connnander.
Unli^MS there is a veMel now at Melville Island, it is not my inten-
tion to reviwit it; but make the best tif my way down tlu> ntraits.

U. M'Ci'VKK,

It will be seen that th<\ for«igoing sununary was (le|i(»slted in April,
lHr)2, on Melville Island, tho K(<aHon of IH/SO having been parsed in
making; tlie voyage from liehring Strait to I'rince of Walew Stniil.

TUB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the wintering place of 1850-1, and that of 1851 having been passed
in the voyage from Prince of Wales Strait to the Bay of Mercy. The
following dispatch gives a description of the intended progress of the
expedition during the present year, when the abandonment of the ship
appeared certain, previous to the arrival of Lieutenant Pim, as re-
lated by Captain Kellott.

II. M. discovery ship Investigator^ Bay of Mercy,
Baring Island, April lU, 1853.

Sir. — In the event of our not getting to England this year, I think
it necessary to acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Com-
missioners of the Admiralty, what our operations will be, to effect that
object, in 1854, that their lordships may bo enabled to take such co-
operative measures for our relief as may appear expedient.

Should the ice break up in this bay sufficiently early to permit of
our getting through the Siraits this season, and finding the water open
to the eastward of Leopold Island, it would be my object to push for-
ward, without stopping to take on board any provisions from Port
Leopold ; but if, contrariwise, the ice should be thick towards Lancas-
ter Sound, I would, if possible, proceed to Port Leopold, and complete
a twelvemonth's provisions, and tlu^i risk wintering in the puck, or
getting through, in preference to remaining at the above port. If,
however, we are detained in this bay until next year, it will then bo
necessary to leave towards the end of April, and make for Port Leo-
pold, where I am aware there is a good boat, a house, and ample sup-
l)li('8 ; and wh(>n the navigation season opens, proceed to Pond Bay,
coasting along the south shore of Barrow Straits. Arriving at Pond
Bay, and if, finding from the Escpiimaux that no whalers have as yet
been there, I should there await their ajjpoarancc as long as my pro-
visions would admit, and th(<t» go down the west sliore of BafHn liay,
keeping close along the land floe, where whalers or their boats are al-
most certain of being met witli. Failing this, I should cross to Dis-
co, wifh the hope of getting a passage in sctme of the Danish vessels
wliich eome there ainnially, and leave about the beginning of Septem-
ber; or, being too late tor them, either chart<>r or purchase one of
their coasting schooners, which T believe trade am<mg the settlements,
if she was cHpiible of standing an Atlantie voyage. Could neitluu' of
these be aecouiplinhed, we must of neeessity remain until the following
season at that settlement. Slioidd any of her Majesty's ships be sent
for our relief, and we hav(« cpiitted Port Leopold, a notice containing
information of our route will be left at the door of the house (m
Whaler's Point, or on some eoiinpieuous point ; if, however, on tho
oontrnry, no intiiiuition should )>(< i'ound of our having been there, it
may be at once suniiise<t that som(> fatal catastrophe liar* happened,
either from being carried into the I'olar Sea or smashed in Harrow
Straits, and no survivors left ; if such should he (he eas«', which, how-
ever, I will not antieij»a(e, it will (hen be (|ui(e unneej'ssary (o pene-
trate furdier weMtwanf for (»ni' relief, n- by the period that any vessel

IIAV oK MKUCY.

could reach that port, we must from want of provisions all have pe-
rished. In such a case I would submit that the officer may be directed
to return, and by no moans incur the danger of losing other lives in
quest of those wlio will then ue no more. As, however, it may occur
(as was the case with Sir John Ross) that the ice may not break up
in Prince Regent Inlet during the whole summer, it is as well to pro-
vide against such a contingency. If such should happen, it would bo
necessary to winter at Port Leopold ; unless apprised of the locality of
any ship that might be sent to our relief; which I think might be ac-
complislied without any very great difficulty ; as, although such vessel
may not be enabled to get far up the straits, yet, as Admiralty Inlet
would be pretty certain of being clear of ice, she might proceed thither,
and in some s(!cure bay freeze in ; and whi'u tne straits are ilrmly
fi'ozon over about the middle of October, a smiiU travelling party could
be di8|)atched with the intelligence. The whole would then proceed
to her, and although rather late in the season, men working for their
lives are not likely to be discouraged by a little cold.

Whatever may be the flnal termination of this long, tedious, but I
hope not unimportant, voyage, I hope, sir, that you will assure their
lordships that in every stage I have been guided entirely by what I
have considered to he my duty, in prosecuting to the utmost the object
for which tiie expt-'ition was Htted out ; and, although we have not
succeeded in obta'i^i. ■ any infcrmation wliich could throw the slightest
clue upon the fate nissing countrymen, I hope that tiie services

performed in tlu' ti A' a very great extent of coast line, the dis-

covery of nuich lamt, (a portion inhabited by a simple and primitive
people not hithertc known,) and, above all, the accurate knowledge of
that passage Ijctwecn tiie Atlantic and Pacific Oceans which for so
many hundred years luis baflled n\aritimo Europe — its very existence
being almost c(tnsidered sceptical — will, I trust, be considered events
sufficiently interesting and important to elicit from their lordsliips a
favourable consideration of our services.

I have the honour to be. Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant,

RouEHT M*Cm;kk, Conunander.

The following letlt^'s contain a narrative of this voyage, in which
the pro('f('tliiijj;H (»f the Imu'stujatnr an> nioi'e fully (h-scribed, and those
interviews between Captain M'CMure and the l^stpiinuiux tribes of tho
coaHli along which he passed. Wo have add* d to them a chart of tho
coa.Hl. nliowing the IniunH(/(itot\s track, referring the reath'r to tho
former for those parts alluded to by Captain M'Cline, of (Baring or)
Banks Island and Priiici^ Alliert Land. We liav(« also added to it
I'ho positions of the llntrrprist; Captain ('ollinson, in Ib^O, and those
of other ships engaged in the western search.

THE NORTH- WKST I'ASSACiK.

H.M. discovery uhip Investigator, off Point Warren,
Polar Sea, Aug. 24th, 1850, in lat. 69° 43' N., long.
131° 57' W.

Sir, — I have the honour to report to you, for the information of the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that wo arrived oft' the Mac-
kenzie on the 2 1st inst. The letters that I forwarded by H.M.S.
Herald, from whom I parted company on the 30th ult., oft' Cape Lis-
burne, will have put you in possession of my proceedings up to that
date.

After parting with the Herald I stood to the N.N.W. with a fresh
breeze from the N.E., AVith the intention of mailing the ice, which was
accomplished on the morning of the 2nd of August, in lat. 72° I' N.,
long. 166° 12' W., and at 11 a.m. stood into the loose ice for the pur-
pose of examining the pack } the wind, howevei", failing before wo got
far in, I was induced to run out to avoid being beset, having astcor-
taind that the pack was very close and heavy, extending from E.N.E.
to W.N.W., and, seeing no hope of getting tliro\igh, worked along its
edge in soundings from 24 to 26 fathoms (nuul), the Imndreds of wal-
ruses that were lying upon the ice, thickly huddled together like sheep
in a fold, were most astonishing.

We continued working along the ice, occasionally getting drifted in,
until tli<^ 5tli, when the weather, which had betm previously tliick and
misty, cleared a little, and, no kv. being in sight, I shaped a course for
Wainwright Inlet, with the intention of getting between the pack and
shore; in running exchanged numbers with II. M.S. Plover, and at
11.30 a.m. observed a low beach, apparently shingle, distant about
two miles.

The weather again having become thick, we went entirely by our
soundings, which varied from 14 to 73 fathoms, in which latter we
rounded Point Barrow at 11.30 p.m., without, liowever, observing the
land, and steered to the eastward, direct for Bunks Land, finding that
the ice was sufticicntly loose and practicable for sailing through. These
hopes weie soon, iiowever, dissipated ; for on the foretuton of \\w 6th
it suddenly cleared, when I found that we had been running directly
into the pack, which was very h(>avy and in)penel ruble, extending from
S.E. to S.W. (by the north), in lat. 71° 35' N., and long. 155° 12'
W., and the sea through which we had come h)oking nearly as white
ns the ice aiu'acl, except that lanes of water were observable. We
instantly hauled to the wiiui, and conniieiued working out.

During the night the breeze freshene<l considerably, bringing showers
of rain with thick weather, while being compelled to carry a press of
eanviiH through very heavy and close sailing ice rendered the naviga-
tion extremely critical. The vessel occasionally struck with some
violence. This continued till the afternoon of the 7th, when clear
water was reported from the crow's-nest. The wind almost imme-
diately failing, th(> boats were all niatni(*d, and towing eonun«<nce<l
amid songs and <'heers, which continued with unabated good humour

POINT DltKW.

Warren,
N., long.

)n of the
;he Mac-
H.M.S.
^ape Lis-
[> to that

h a fresh
hich was
2° 1' N.,
the pur-
•0 wo got
ng ascor-
a E.N.E.
along its
a of wal-
iVe sheep

Iriftcd in,
thick and
iourso for
pack and
r, and at
nt about

y by our

latler wo

rving tlie

ding that

These

the Gth

; directly

ing from

ir)5" 12'

as white

l)le. We

; whowers
i prcHS of
< naviga-
ith Home
len clear
*t imine-
)inen<'e<l
humour

for six hours, wlien their laborioua work was brought to a successful
termination ; being in perfectly clear water in Smith Bay, a light air
springing «ip, we worked to (lie eastward.

At 2 a.m. of the 8th, being off Point Drew, sent Mr. Court (second
n)aster) on shore to erect a cairn, and bury a notice of our having
passed. Upon landing they were met by three natives, who at tirst
were very timid, but, upo:; exchanging signs of friendship, which
consisted of raising the arms three times over the head, they approached
the boat, and, after the pleasant salutation of rubbing noses, became
very conmumicative ; when, by the assistance of our invaluable inter-
preter, Mr. Miertsching — the selection of this gentleman for this im-
portant office docs infinite credit to the discernment of thone who sent
him, — we found the tribe consisted of ten tents (tliis being the only
approach to their numbers he could obtain), that they had arrived
only three days previuurfly, and that they hold communication with a
party inland, wlio trade witli the Russian Fur Company. The even-
ing before they liad observed us, but could nt)t imagine what large
trees they were moving about (our masts), and all tlie tribe had as-
sembled on tiie beach to look at them, wlien they agreed that it was
something very extrHonlinury, and left the three men who met the
boat to watch, 'i'liey also gave the j)U'asliig intelligence that we should
find open water along the coast from about three to live miles' distanco
during the sununer ; that the heavy ice very seldom came in or never
left the liind further than at present; that they did not know if thero
wer(! any islands further north, as ihey Ibiind it impossible to go in
tlu'ir kyacks, when in piu'suit of seals, further than one day's journey
to the main ice, and then the laiu'S of wiiler allowed of their proceed-
ing three-(piartcrs of a day further, which brought them to very largo
and high ice, with not space enough in any part of it to allow their
kyiuks to enter. Tl>n T)robabl(^ distance Mr. Miertsching therefore
estimates, from his knowledge of the Ksciuimaux habits, to be about
forty miles off shore, and, I'rom what 1 have seen of the pac^k, I am
inclined to think this is perfectly eorn.'ct, for a moto unbroken mass L
never witnessed.

They also mentioned seeing the boats with white men going east-
ward last year (which, I suppose, was liieutenant I'ulh'u) but had
not seen any other white persons or anything like this vessel b(>f(»ro ;
they had, tlu'refore, n<» name of sulficient grandeur to giv(! the great
'* oiniav," HO they called her the "fast moving island." Several of
them cnme off to tlu^ vessel, but had litthi to baiter, as all their hunters
were away, but immediately we had been observ<'<l they wero sent for,
and would soon arrive. Then, said liiey, "you will be gone, and how
disiippoiiited they will be." Tliey iippear a simpU', kind people, very
poor, very filthy, and, to us, looking « xnrdiiigly wret( Ik d. TIk^ fimo
of our retmn wtis repi'atedly incpiired for by them. They would have
a (piantily of .skins ; they were anxious tor lis to wnit a little, that they
might send olV ii supply of reindeer ; but, th(« boat returning and the
wind fair, I made tliem a lew presents, and gave them a letter to bo

THB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

forwarded to the Russian Fur Company, and made sail to the east-
ward.

The wind being light as we ran close alongshore, in from four to
six fathoms, wo had a great many visitors ; many of them had been
their whole lives between the Coppermine and Point Barrow. These
could give no information of the missing expedition. I am certain
that had any of them reached these shores we must have heard of it.
The coast is inhabited throughout, and the natives are, to all appear-
ance, a kind and merry race, and when we gave them presents, through
the medium of the interpreter, we told them that we were looking for
our lost brothers, and if they saw any white men in distress they were
to be very kind, to which they assented, by saying they would, and
give them plenty of " deer's flesh."

While running along the land, which is exceedingly low, observed
upon Point Pitt two conical mounds ; thinking they might have some
communication buried beneath, ran in to examine them. While in
stays the vessel took the ground, but was hove off almost immediately
without any damage, the bottom being soft clay. The boat sent to
examine the mounds reported them old Esquimaux caches, where they
deposit their venison. They left a bottle containing a notice of our
passing.

Upon rounding Cape Halbett on the morning of the 9th found the
ice was set close to the shore, which ronderad it a passage of much
anxiety, great labour, and imminent risk, as the wind was strong from
E.S.E., with thick fog, and the ice closing around us fast, so that we
had barely space to work in, tacking frequently in five, and never
beyond ten minutes, standing upon one tack into three and a half
fathoms, and upon the other to four and a half and six fathoms ; this
operation was continued the greater part of the middle and all the
morning watch. At 9 a.m. the weather cleared a little, and open water
was observed in Smith Bay ; our soundings gradually increased ; the
reaches became longer as we rounded the Cape, and all apprehension
of being forced on shore was over.

10th. — In crossing Harrison Bay found the influence of the Colvile
to extend twelve or fourteen miles, the surface of the water Iwing of
a dirty mud colour, and scarcely salt. The weather (thick and foggy)
prevented any land being seen. The soundings were very regular ;
on one tack the ice alloweil of our standing off to eight fathoms, and
on the other the land to tlu'(H) and a half fathoms, black mud.

11 th. — In the niorning the weather cleared a little, and discovered
to us Jones Island. An erect piece of wood on the Hliore attract^nl the
attention of the offlcer of the watch ; a boat was sent to examine it,
when it apix-arcd to be a piece of drift wood, which had been squeezed
up by the ice. The shore was strewed with it, and one upar was as
largo as our mainmast^ and forty-five feet in length. We elected a
cairn and left a notice. In the forenoon about thirty natives came off
in two baidars, from whom we obtained some ti»h and ducks, in ex-
change for a little tobacco. They had l)een about two months on the

DISPATCHES LEFT WITH ESQUIMAUX.

coast, and trade with the Russian Fur Company. Their surprise, of
course, was very great, particularly at the size of our handkerchiefs
(the sails) ; the whale-boats attracted their attention, and they asked
if trees grew in our country sufficiently large to make them. The
head man possessed a gun with " Barnett, 1840" upon the lock ; this
he obtained from the Russians.

As a fair specimen of the observation of these people and their apti-
tude for trade, the following way be taken : — Seeing that we cut the
tobacco into pieces to give in exchange for their fish (salmon trout),
they began to do the same with the fish. This, however, we would
not admit, so they were obliged to come to our terms. During the
afternoon, while standing along a low flat island, ^^ o observed a flag
(a pair of seal skin inexpressibles) upon a lofty le, and a number of
natives around it ; we stood for them, but when the boats wore pulling
in they appeared to regret their temerity, for down came the seal-skin
and away they ran ; shortly, gaining courage, they returned, and, as
wo approached, arranged themselves in line upon the beach, and com-
menced extending their arms above their heads (typical of friendship),
which being answered from the boats, perfectly assured them of our
amicable intentions. Upon landing they evinced a most manly con-
fidence, rubbing noses and embracing most vigorously; these were
very cleanly, so that the operation was not so miplcasant as it other-
wise might have been. Through the interpreter, Mr. Miertsching,
we learnt that these people had never before seen a European, nor had
they the smallest article of European manufacture about them (Lieut.
Pullen's boats they observed last year, but they were some distance
off, and consequently had no communication). They live during the
summer months upon these desolate islands, and in the winter retire a
short distance on the mainland to their warmer residences. Their
women and tents were upon another island. They were a fine active
set of young men, average height about five feet six inches. These
barter their skins, &c., with a tribe furtiier west, who, in tlieir iurn,
do the same with others, until they reach the Russian post ui)on the
Colvilo. To them I intrusted a dispatch for their lordships, which
they promised most faithfully should bo forwarded to the Colvilc. I
made thorn a few prest^nts, giving them also a boat's ensign, in com-
memoration oi" the first man-of-war whoHo flag has ever floated in
thcs(! sterile re|^ions. The inaguiflcenco of the gift they could not for
sonjo time comprehend, and were loth to touch it, but at length the
interpreter made Ihoin undoistiuid it was sent tliem by a great chief,
and in return they were to be very kind to all white men they met,
and show it to thorn. All this they promised. The chief then seized
it in his arms and ran across the island to his canoe, followed by the
nnnaindor of his tribe, and no doubt hurried with tlie joyful tidings
to the women. Wo find a west<irly set, which prevents om* making
but slight prop;re9s, the wind li.. aging so much to the oiistward.

On the morning of tlie 12th four baidars came alongside, oontiiining
the whol(^ (encampment of the trilx^ we nu<t last night, and also some
that we had soon two days proviouxly, from which it appeared they

THE NOKTIl-WEST TASSAGK.

are migratory. Tliey brought off a supply of fish and a quantity of
venison ; but the latter was in such a state of high putrefaction we
could not touch it. We allowed most of the men to come on board,
and, although well aware of their knavish propensities, and, conse-
quently, a sharp look-out was kept upon them, they most adroitly
managed to slip both handles of our winch and a small ice anchor into
their baidar, when the fair sex became the recipients. It was by the
greatest accident that . the theft was discovered, by the end of one
handle protruding from beneath the ample proportions of the lady —
who, when taxed, immediately returned the articles, and informed upon
her husband. For this immorality the whole boat was exempted from
receiving any present.

Working to the eastward observed a few deer upon one of the low
islands, but was prevented sending any boat, as a south-east current
was setting us into shoal water very fast, so that all the boats were
required to tow until 8 p.m., when a light air ran us to the westward
into six fathoms ; the loose ice was in rapid motion, and the larger floe
pieces, as they passed, appeared to create a current which frequently
turned the vessel completely round against helm and sails, the power
of a two-knot breeze being insulRcient to counteract it.

On the morning of the i'6t\\ we were enveloped in a dense fog, among
exceedingly heavy and close sailing ice, through which wo attempted
to work, but found that endeavouring to avoid one piece we ran upon
another, striking occasionally with great force, which determined mo
to secure to a floe until it cleared. In this wo fortunately succeeded,
getting one that was grounded in seven fathoms. It was a heavy
piece, but not so nuich so as many that were about us. I took itu
height above the water in ac^ven places, which gave an average of 1 1
feet 1 1 inches ; a )) ick chicily composed of such would bo too powerful
a foe for any ship long to contend against.

At 8 a.m. of tiie 14tli, it having cleared a little, .slipped from the
floe, and commenced working to the eastward among ma«aes of ice.
At 10.30 a.m. observed a slioal just in time to avoid it; it was com-
pletely hidden from view oil' deck, notl((ing as liigh as the ice, having
a quantity of driftwood upon it, which is in great abinuliiiice along
the whole coast. At 3.30 p.m. our course was impelled by another of
these low Island:^, which iiad tlic ice resting upon its northern extreme,
while the .southern point was flanked by a shoal, whicii connected it
with the island seen in the morning. Wo were thus perfectly hennned
in. The boats were sent to souiul, when Mr. Court represented a
passage jjcacticiible in thr»'e fathiMus. In ruiniing through we unfor-
tunately hit tipon a s|)()t with oidy two and a half I'athoin.s, wliich had
escaped observation. We had, eonseiiucntly, to lighten the vessel con-
siderably before she got oil", wliicli, however, was atjcomplished with-
out any damage (thci bottom being sand) by 11 p.m., having been on
Hhore live hours. 1 regret to add that 11 casks of salt meat, which
wore placed in thti llrat whale-boat, were lost by her u|)settiiig, being
compelled to place the provisions in the whalers, the cutters having
the bower anchors in them, 'i'liin whs a. serious Inss } indeed, an irrc-

THE PELLt ISLANDS.

paiablo calatnity. As soon as we were off it was my wish to return
by the way we came in, but we found that the ice had set upon the
shoal we had first observed, and cut oft' our retreat, under which cir-
cumstances I was obliged to anchor and wait a change of wind.

On the 16th the wind came slightly from the westward, which set
the ice in motion ofi" the north point of the island. At 9 a.m. weighed
and towed to the edge of the ice, which presented a barrier of about
500 yards in width between us and the open water we wished to get
into. We commenced warping at 2 p.m., and so heavy was the ice
that it was not until 8 p.m. that we could get through. It fell calm,
so made fast to the ice for the night.

Next morning, the 17th, a very thick fog, with light north-east
wind, and at 4 a.m. commenced 1 edging to the eastward, but at 7 a.m.
gave it up ; the wind freshened and unable to see for fog. At 2 p.m.
it cleared ; we slipped from the ice and plied to the north-east amid
heavy streams and largo floe pieces, vessel striking violently, but un-
avoidably, against them.

18th. — To-day, from the mast-head, observed the first lane of open
water in the pack, extending, east and west, several miles, but very
narrow. In the evening a fresh breeze from the south-west, and,
almost simultaneously, a slight pitching motion was observed, which is
considered an infallible symptom of open water being near. It was
so foggy that nothing could be seen ; but, notwithstanding, I shaped a
course N.N.W. for Banks Land, thinking that we had rounded the
pack, having coasted it between four and five hundred miles. Wo
continued the greatest part of the night to run without much obstruc-
tion ; but upon the following morning, the 19th, our progress was
checked by finding that we hud run into a deep bight which compelled
us to work back again to the south-cast.

20th. — Ik'forc getting clear of this pack, into which we had pene-
trated a considerable distance, being decoyed by a few lanes of open
water, wo wi-re coni[telled to run seventy miles south, which placed us
in lat. 69 " 50' N., long. 1 36° 50' W. It is seldom that observations
can be obtained, this being otdy the sixth set since the 5th of the
month, the fog and mist being more continuous than I ever remember
to have nu!t elscwlnire.

2l8t. — We have succeeded in getting again into clear water j at 1
p.m. made tlu^ Pelly Islands, oft' the month of the Mackenzie. The
coast is, howtner, so excessively shoal that I find it impossible to reach
the mainland, which 1 was very anxious to aceonjplish, but, at the
distance ol' forty miles from it, was obliged to tack in tlirej? and three
(juarters liUlioniH. We passed the line of its tid(^ most distinctly
marked aluiut icn miles further north, the water being the colour of
the Thames at Woolwich, slightly brackish, and its teniju'raturo 39
degrees, llu' sea, four hours previously, being 28 degrees. From what
I have ohserve<l of the pack, 1 feel convinced that any attempt to
reach Banks Land through it woidd only terminate in failure, and the
conscipient loss of vnlnable time, but by working between its edge and
the shore have conlidence in ntaking a good advance this season ; it ic,

we THE NORTU-WEBT PASSAGE.

therefore, my intention to pursue the latter method, and, in so doing,
deviate from my original purpose of pushing into the ice, as mentioned
in my letter to their lordships, dated the 19th of July.

22nd. — Fog during the whole of the night very dense, but, having
much open water upon the eastern shore from the Maclienzie towards
Cape Bathurst, had no difficulty in working along it, in soundings
from four to eight fathoms ; which latter was the extent that the ice
permitted us off shore. At noon a slight clear discovered to us a cluster
of islands, which a very indifferent observation (lat. 69° 34' N., long.
135° 9' W.) points out as those of Pelly.

23rd. — A fine clear day, the temperature rising to 40 degrees at
noon. Made the northern extreme of Richards Island from the mast-
head, and by a good observation established our position lat. 69° 54' N.,
long. 133° 48' W., the water towards the shore being perfectly clear
of ice ; which agrees with the account given by Sir John Richardson
that the natives observe no ice for two moons, but these never quit the
land any distance, for were they to extend their excursions ten miles
further north than our position, they would find the pack solid and
impenetrable. This, however, gives ample space for navigation, the
soundings being so exceedingly regular that, during the most foggy
weather, we can stand in shore with the most perfect confidence to 3i
fathoms. A whale was seen to day, being only the third since round-
ing Point Barrow, although upon the day we were off that point seven
were counted.

24th. — Observed huts and natives off Point Warren. I hastily
close this communication in the hope of its reaching their lordships
this year through Fort Good Hope, as I imagine these people commu-
nicate with the Mackenzie. I have written to the company's oificer
at tlie above-mentioned post, to request his exertions in sending it
forward.

In conclusion, it gives me great pleasure to state that the whole of
the crew are in excellent health and spirits. The season appears ex-
ceedingly favourable, the temperature being mild and the water per-
fectly free from ice along the shore as far as we can see. It was my
intention to touch at Cape Bathurst, with the chance of being able to
forward this dispatch, which will now not be necessary, but shall make
the most of the remainder of the season by getting to the northward,
in pursuance of their lordships' directions.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant,

Robert M'Clure, Commander.

H.M. discovery ship Investigator^ off CapcBathurst,

Polar Sea; lat. 70° 23' N., long, 127° 57' W.,

August 30, 1850.

Sir, — Having closed my dispatch of tlie 24th with an intimation

that it would be loft near Point Warren with the natives observed

fi*om the ship, in accordance with that intention I proceeded to the

«>"■

POINT WAHRKN.

fchore. Why it was not so left I shall, in continuation of my narra-
tive, relate.

From the contiguity of this tribe to the Mackenzie, I was naturally
led to imagine that their trade was with the Hudson's Bay Company.
Great therefore was my surprise upon approaching the beach to find,
instead of being greeted with the usual friendly signs, that two sav-
ages, with gesticulations the most menacing, having bended bows with
arrows on their strings, and one with a large knife, which he brandished
most significantly, waved us off. Taking no heed of these hostile de-
monstrations, we pulled in ; they retreated, yelling furiously. On our
reaching the fall of the beach we made the same signs of friendship
which we had used with the Esquimaux further west, but without any
effect until joined by the interpreter, who was in full native costume.
This gave them confidence ; and, upon his explaining our friendly in-
tentions, they approached ; but when within about thirty yards, re-
marking some muskets which the boat's crew had, their fury revived ;
to pacify them they were laid on the ground, where they became the
object of a cautious examination. Still unsatisfied, they beckoned to
take them to the boat. Seeing that nothing short of this would allow
of any communication, I sent them away ; when they approached and
permitted us to examine their bows and arrows.

Mr. Mcrtsching informed me that we had been observed at 5 o'clock
in the morning. The whole tribe had immediately taken to their bai-
dars, with their most valuable skins, and left the settlement, with the
exception of the chief and his son, who remained to defend their pro-
perty, as it would have been undignified to retire when danger was
apprehended. A sick son and his mother, seeing our friendly disposi-
tion, soon joined us. Dr. Armstrong examined the poor lad's foot ; it
was in a frightful state of mortification. The chief stated that they
were at war with the neighbouring tribes, and had occasional skirm-
ishes with the Indians ; that they had no communication with any per-
sons belonging to the Groat River (Makenzie), nor had they seen any
white people before ; but, when the sea freezes, (the latter end of next
month,) the whole tribe proceed west, and trade with the Esquimaux
whom wo had met near Jones Island. The interpreter told him that
he had found a brother in the chief of one of those tribes, whose name
was Attauwas ; the old chief clapped his hands and said he knew him
well ; that ho was the great chief he traded with, and their reason for
going such a distance, in preference to the Mackenzie, was that the
white men had given the Indians very bad water, which killed many,
and made others foolish (drunk), and that they would not have nny
such water. From this it evidently appears that the company lose
annually many valuable skins, which find their way to the Col vile,
instead of the Mackenzie.

Observing an old flat brass button suspendotl from the ear of the
chief, he said it was taken from a white man who had been killed by
one of his tribe, who went away in his kyack when the vessel was
seen ; the white man belonged to a party which had landed at Point
Warren, and there built a house ; nobody knew how they came, as

THE NOnTIT-WP:ST PASSAGE.

they had no boat, but that they went inland ; the man killed had
strayed from the party, and that he and his son buried him upon a hill
at a little distance. The only answer we could obtain as to the pro-
bable time when this transaction took place was, " that it might be
last year, or when I was a child." To examine the grave I was very
anxious, but was prevented by the Btf>U of the weather, becoming foggy
with fresh breezes, which compelled our immediate return to the ship;
so, making them a few presents, we parted on very amicable terms.
This intelligence appeared of so important a nature, with respect to
the white men on the point, that I determined to remain until it became
sufficiently clear to land and examine the house, which might possibly
contain some indication of the missing expedition ; this detained me
eighteen hours, but to have left with a doubt would have been a subject
of perpetual regret.

At 2 a.m. on the following morning, the 25th, we reached the point,
the weather being toierably clear. The interpreter. Dr. Armstrong,
and myself, went on shore in eager expectation of discovering some
clue that would lead to a knowledge of the parties, but in this we were
miserably disappointed ; two huts, indeed, Avcrc there to excite hopes,
but upon approacl) them we found the wood work to be perfectly
rotten and of a vcr^ d date, witliout any description of mark to yield
the slightest information. The general appearance of the country
about the point was low and marshy, covered with grass, moss, and
flowers, the breeding-place of the eider duck, and every species of wild
fowl ; wo also remarked the footmarks of the fox and reindeer ; so
fertile a landscape I could not anticipate upon the shores of the Polar
Sea. The interpreter, from his knowledge of the customs of the Es-
quimaux, is of opinion that the story of the white man is traditionary;
probably some of the early discoverers had been engaged in some affray
with the ancestors of the present chief, and one of them had been killed.
The present generation inherit the honour, and so identify themselves
with their forefathers, speaking of the tiansaction in the first person
as if they themselves were the actors ; which is very likely, from the
vague definition of the time — " it might bo last year, or when I was a
child ;" so the history of the white man will still continue a mystery.
We also heard that last year two boats came from the westwai'd, and
landed at Point Warren and then returned. I cannot imagine what
boats these could be, unless they were those of Lieutenant PuUen,
who, in thick weather, might have missed the Mackenzie, and, by
sights obtained at the point, discovered his error. They had not seen
any this year.

Aug. 26. — N.E. winds and snow, occasionally clearing, so that the
land could be discerned, which presented the same low line, with a few
conical hills a short distance inland. We saw a few old tents, but not
a native. Two whales passed us close to the vessel, one very large,
although only in six fathoms of water.

Aug. 27. — Liglit northerly winds and thick fog. It was my inten-
tion to send a boat along-shore, that she miglit examine it thoroughly,
as the water to the eastward of Cape Brown permits us standing within

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

two miles of the coa>*t, and take her on board in the evening; but,
under the circumstance of thick weather, I could not venture to do so,
fearful of being detained by missing her.

Aug. 28. — Light winds from N.E., with a mild, cloudy day. At
noon, Cape Dalhousie S.W. 12 miles, several masses of drift ice, some
of the pieces very heavy, which, however, is not any obstruction to our
progress, as the space of open water is ample for sailing. We have
found, during the last four days, a current varying from 11 to 16
miles daily, setting to the southward. We have had no opportunity
of shooting ; the greatest part of the birds had taken their southern
flight before our ari'ival ; the few flocks that we have seen were very
shy, and unapproachable.

Aug. 29. — Very dense fog, with light wii. J from N.E., which cleared
at noon sufllciently to obtain a meridian altitude, and found tliat we
had been set since yesterday south 12 mile!5, Cape Dalhou&ie aistant
S.W. (true) 3 miles; the fog enveloped us again while stcuiling ot?
shore, when we ran into a narrow channel, having but Hi fathomi* ovi
either side, which compelled us to bear up west. This carried us into
deep water in about fifteen minutes. In the course of the afternoon
we fell in with very heavy drift ice, composed of large floe piecvis, oc-
casionally becoming entangled in consequence of the thick fog, although
there was much open water among it.

Aug. 30. — Wind from the northward, with clear weather. O' ,vervin«5
a mark on the beach upon the island off Maitlund Point, in Llvt^pool
Bay, sent M?. Sainsbury (mate) to examine it, and to leave a notice of
our passing. Upon his return he reported that an Esquimaux encamp-
ment had recently broken up, the traces of their tents and footmarks
being quite distinct. We observed from the ship several reindeer,
which were not seen by the party on shore. In standing along the
coast, observing natives, I ran in to forward this dispatch, trusting it
might reach the Hudson Bay Company this year, which is probaWe,
if they are not as great a set of savages as we met near Point Warren.
I hope to round Cape Bathurst to-morrow. This will therefore be the
last communication which it will, in all probability, be in my power to
make to their lordships. The temperature has hitherto been exceed-
ingly mild, thermometer very seldom being below 32°, and from the
present favourable appearance, both of the weather and state of (ho
ice, I have very strong hopes of getting well to the northward cie, tl.e
navigation ceases, which will bo about the latter end of next month,
according to Esquimaux report.

I have the honour to be. Sir,

Your most obedient humbl servant,

RouiiF.T M*Ci.7jTiii,, Commander.

XIIK NORTH-WEST PA8SAGK.

H.M. discovery ship Investigator^ off Cape Bathurst,
Polar Sea, August 30th, 1850, in lat. 70° 28' N.,
long. 128° 38' W.

Sir, — In accordance with tht intention expressed at the conclusion
of my last lettei*, I proceeded in the first whale-boat, accompanied by
Dr. Armstrong and Mr. Miertsching, followed by Lieutenant Cresswnll
and a party of officers in a cutter, bringing a variety of presents.
We were met upon landing by two women, who greeted us very cor-
dially, and, through the medium of the interpreter, acquainted rae that
the remainder of the tribe were at Cape Bathurst, catching whales,
which V, as at no great distance, and they would be our guides. Gladly
availing ourselves of this apparently fortunate incident, the boats were
directed to pull along shore, while wo ascending the cliff, reached a fine
level plain, extending several miles north and south, rich with verdure
and abounding i!i moss. We preferred walking, hoping to meet Bonne
reindeer, for wliich the pasture was excellent, but mile after mile was
walked without any appearance of the fishing party. Arriving, after
the expiration of three hours, in a small bay, we were, however, grati-
fied at being told this was the s))ot where two boats, the year befoi-e
last, had pitched their tents for the nigiit (Sir J. Richardson), and wo
had to go a very little furtlier. On reaching the next bay we found
tliere two tents, wliich our guides said belonged to them, but the Capo
or any apjK'aranco of the tribe could not be seen. We declined going
luiy further, as, in consequence of the wind falling light, the vessel
was by this time hull down. We were then kindly invited to become
partakers of their tents, and go on the next morning, which hospi-
table offer was not aceept«'(l ; but, bartering several articles in ex-
changt^ for salmon and making them a few presents, w<.' returned on
board, when, at lO.iiO ]).n),, it becoming dark and foggy, and getting
into 2i| fathoms, wt; anchored for the night.

Au'ifUBt Slst, at daylight, found that we wen; between tlio mainland
and Bailey Islands, about a mile from the latter, the weather still
foggy, with a m(Klerat4! N.W. breeze, but (h>termined, if possible, to
discover the fishing party; at 7.30 a.m. I left the ship, with Mr.
Miertsching and Dr. Armstrong, in the cutter, and, af>4>r coasting
about ten miles, discovered, upon the extremity of Cape Bathurst, a
large encampment, consisting of thirty t«nts and nine winter houscg,
numbering a little over 300 people. On landing upon a very low
istlnnus, which connects, within a very few yards, tlw* islands and
mainland, we remarked a connnotion at the village, and a nuniln'r of
men rushed down the cliffs, lannched their kyacks, and crossed to meet
UN, h.iuling these light and elegant skiffs on the beach, they advanced
with knives drawn and bows bent, evidently prepared for hostilities.
Finding by our gestures that our int4<nti(ins were amicable, their bows
wc^re relnrned to their sealskin cases, but the knivt's tiny still retained,
The intfr|iretei' tnjd tlieni that our vinit was I'riendiv, and that they
should ^lut away their knives. " Yes," naid they, •* when you do your

cli

en
eiij
em
Ml.
br(
on

bii
col
on

CAI'E BATHURST.

guns." To be allowed to cai'ry the musket appeared a great favour,
for which they presented you with their knife, as a token of friendship.

We remained upwards of an hour ; during the greater part of the
time, Mr. Miertscliing was in earnest conversation with the chief — a
fine, intelligent, middle aged man — upon the necessity of his forward-
ing our dispatches to tiie Mackenzie, which he promised most faithfully
to perform, for which ho was to receive a musket and ammunition, and,
upon his delivering the packet, a further reward equal in value to a
silver fox skin. He, however, said that their tribe do not trade with
the Mackenzie, but with another further south, who in their turn traffic
with the Indians who are in the service of the Hudson Bay Company ;
so, as they have to [)a3S through three tribes of the heathen before
they come into the hands of civilized man, I think it extremely prob-
able that they may never reach their destination. Mr. Miertscliing,
from his knowledge of the Esquimaux character, tb.inks otherwise,
and imagines that the chief will himself carry tlu>m. The perfect ease
with which this gentleman understands and converses with these in-
teresting people surprises them very nuich ; they were most anxious
for him to remain, promising to be very kind. The chief presented
his daughter, a very pretty girl of about flfteon, who should bo his
wife ; tents and all appurtenances were to be added.

While tlieso negociations wore going forward, upwards of 100 per-
sons had descended from the village. With such a concourse I did
not think it prudent to open the bag etmtaining the presents, well
knowing their cupidity is easily excited by the display of such valnitMes,
when they are not to be relied on. We consefpuMilly returned to the
boat. When the chief was instructed in the use of his gun, he showed
himself iin apt pupil, and when the anununition was given into his
hands, expressed himself very much gratiiii at the gilt, and walked
towards tlu^ village with his chief men. A line was then made cm the
beach, which the recipients of gifts were not to puss (and this they
perl('(!tly understood) ; the interpret<'r then conmieiiced the distribution.
For a little time order was maintained, but the fair sex becoming
clamorous and closing round, t\w line was broken, and, to prevent
being driven into the wiiter, we were compelled to retreat to the boat,
whi(^h was lying aground about twenty yards from th(> bench.

liy this manoMivre, we escaped IVom all thai had not on waler-tighd
boots, but still about forty surrounded the cutter ; and, nllhoiiuli the
crew were stutione«l round her to prevent their g<>tling on lionrd, su
eager and persevering were the wouumi that several were lifted in,
endeavouring t(» sei/.e everything within their reach ; one of them in
iUo most dexterous manner slipped tlu^ compass out of its box into thu
breast oi' her jacket, and with di(!lculty it was recovered. It was
only by great llrmness ami stoppage ol' the supplies lliiit reduct'd them
to order, (»r to tpnl the boat. IMie presents beiii^ at length dlstri-
hutetl. and every out* in good humour, we wished ilietii farewell, and
conunenced launching the boat, in which operation they most vigor-
ously assisted, aitd seventeen, in their fairy kyacks, cKcorletl uif (o thu

TlIK NOKTH-WE8T PAftSAOR.

»liip, arriving about a quarter of an hour before wo did— except one,
who, having got some little distance off the shore, encountered a fresh
breeze and rough sea. Wo shortened sail, and took boat and all in.
The poor fellow being drenched we offered him a little brandy, which
he drank at a mouthful, not being aware of its strength. He suffered
the sensation to subside without evincing (except by his eyes watering)
any symptom of vexation, and then asked for water. Many came on
board the ship, but one only ventured below, who was exceedingly
surprised to find that we had not tents but houses (cabins), and said
he should have many wonderful things to relate when he went home.
This tribe is a flno intelligent race — cleanly, handsome, and well-
grown ; and I deeply regret that so little has been hitherto attempted
in civilising them. I sincerely hope that the day is not far distant
when this interesting people may be redeemed from their deplorable
state of heathen darkness.

At 5.40 }).in. we sailed with a moderate breeze from the S.W., and
reached to the S.E. for the purpose of clearing the Bailey Islands.
At 9 tacked and stood to the N.W., the wind becoming light and va-
riable. During the night we made but little progress ; and at 8 a.m.
on the morning of September Ist 1 ohnerved Cape Bathurst, N.E.b.E.,
six miles. In the cours(3 of the forenoon n)any kyacks came off. The
natives, now assured of our friendly intentions, came oti board without
the slightest reluctance, and, through the medium of the interpreter,
ae(|uainted us that during the night they had been preparing a feast,
roasting wluile and venison, and had salmon, blubber, and other <leli-
eacies, besides plenty ot" skins ready at the tents, and hoped we would
come on shore, which, in<lee«l, I should very much have enjoyed had
the vessel being in a less precarious position ; but, under the present
circumstances, it was impossible, which, it appeared, that those on
shore understood, for iit the afternoon a gr(>at many of both sexes
visited us 5 and, all beini^ "lniMorous to get on board, we were obliged
to take their kyacks on th-ek.

Seeing their lK)ats were in sofety, they made themselves perfecitly
at home, examining every article of furnit«n*e most minutely. The
pictures and looking glass«>s in the olHcerH* cabins wer(> ol)je(;ts of much
admiration. Many were dancing with our men, and so mutually
iuippy were all parties, that it was lu'ar six o'clock before I could get
ihviu to leiive the ship { indeed, had not the interpreti^r tohl them that
we were going towards tiie pa(^k, nnd would not ngain come* near their
tents, I very nuich i|iu>s(ion if we should have got lh(>m away without
eompidsion. \V(^ tniderstood iVoni them that tlie nuiin piurk is pernui-
nent, iHM-er leaving the shore ah(>ve 12 or 14 miles. They designate
it as the " land of the white heiir," as it ahoinids with tlum(> tininials,
wl ich they iippeiired riilher to dn lul, as, when we slttod townrds the
pav:k in the forenoon, they eiilreiited not to Ite left there as they were
iearfiil of the bear. One niotlier mentioned that she had her little
child carried away by oiu<of them a sliort time previous, while playiiig
on the khore a little distance from her. The poor cnalure bhed team

at
it'

In
tl

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

in relating tlie catastrophe. At parting ocveral presents were bestowed
uponi them, which had the cifoct of eliciting promises of friendship
for us or any of our white brethren who might come on their coast.

These people had no article of European manufacture, except a few
iron pots, wliich certainly they gave a very formidable price for — no
less than five of the best silver fox skins for each. The tribe leave
the Cape about the 20tli of September, when the ice is 'ufflciently
stotng to bear their sledges, for the purpose of bartering »'' ih the bor-
dering tribe. They then go to their winter houses some distance in-
land, with the exception of a few families, who live the entire year
upon this bleak and inhospitable shore.

Sept. 2nd. — Fine day, with light northerly wind; ran along the
pack edge, the ice being heavy and impenetrable : not a drop of water
to bo seen from the mast-head among it. The water between it and
the shore is practicable, althougli encumbered with much loose ice.
Experienced a strong current from the S.E., which set us to the west-
ward of the Bailey Islands.

On the morning of the 3rd, the wind gradually veered to the 86uth-
ward, bringing with it a very dense fog, and, being at the time surrounded
witi) heavy floe pieces and close sailing ice, through which it was ne-
cessary to pursue our course, so that every advantage might be taken
of the favourable breeze, the vessel occasionally came into violent col-
lision. At noon it ch^ared a little, when Trail Point bore S.S.W.,
about seven niih^s ; sounded in 65 lathoms (mud). The nights having
a few hours' darkness, blue lights and rockets are fired for the purpose
of attracting the att(>ntion of any parties that might be returning from
WoUaston or Vict^uia Lands bound to tlie Mackenzie.

4th.- -Liglit variable wiiuls, with warm weather, the temperature
rising ti> 41"^; the water along shoie free from ice. About four miles
to the westward of the llorton, sounded in 83 fathoms, and shortly
after passed over a narrow siioal having but 13 fathoms ; a few pieces
of heavy ice wero grounded upon it. The land appears to average
from 8U to I0() feet in heigiit, composed of blue clay intormingh'd with
sand. Many whales have been about the ship : at one time eight, and
from one to four the greater part of the day. A bear, the first that has
been seen, was likewise nunarki-d upon some loost) ice in shore, but.
time would not allow of its Ix'ing pursued.

•)th. — The weather, which had lH>en s(iually, accompanied by a
liiick I'o (hniiig ihi; early part of tiie day, cleared towards noon, when
a vohiiiu' (tfsimike wan observed about twelve mih's S.W., and five ti)
(he eastward of the llorton, in the name spot tiiat it had attracted our
attnilion yester<lay. As divers opinions were in circulation respei^ting
it" probal)lt> cause, and the icemate having positively reported that from
the <'row's ne.st h«> could distingiiiHli wveral persons moving about,
drcMscd in white shirts, iind observed some whit<t tents in a hoUow
of the elill', J c<<r*niidy had every reason to inuigine they w(>re a ptirty
of Kin'opeans in diHiress, convinced that no travellers would remain
I'lir sti long a p(<riiid an we had renuirked the smoke in one Mpot for
tlu>ir plea«ur» } therefore, to sutisfy myself ei|ually as others, 1 deter-

()2

THE NOKTH-WEST PASSACiE.

mined to send a boat on shore, as it was now calm ; the first whale-
boat, under Lieutenant Cresswell, with Dr. Armstrong and Mr.
Miortsching, was dispatched to examine into the cause, who on their
return reported the smoke to emanate from fifteen small mounds, of
volcanic appearance, occupying a space of about fifty yards, the place
strongly impregnated with sulphur, the lower mounds being about 30
feet above the sea level, the highest about 50 feet. The land in its
vicinity was blue clay, much intersected with ravines and deep water-
courses, varying in elevation from 300 to 500 feet. The mark of a
reindeer was traced to a small pond of water immediately above the
mounds. A notice of our having landed was left, which would not
long remain, as the cliff is evidently rapidly crumbling away. Thus
the mystery of the white shirts and tents was most satisfactorily ex-
plained. A breeze shortly springing up from the westward, we made
sail to the N.E. During the night it freshened considerably, with
rain and thick weather ; this, combined with four hours' darkness,
compelled mo to shorten sail, although loth to lose the full benefit of
the fair wind, but wo struck so heavily against large blue fioe pieces,
that were barely above the water, that the greatest vigilance and at-
tention wore insufiUcient to avoid them, so no alternative remained to
prevent disaster.

A great many seals and whales were seen in Franklin Bay ; no less
than fifteen of the latter were playing around us at one time, but very
small, or according to Greenland fishing phraseology, '* iiaving only
three-foot bono," so Mr. Newton, the icemate, informs mo. At 4 a.m.
on the morning of the 6th, we were off the small islands near Cape
Parry, bearing N.E.b.N., ton miles, with a fino westerly bret^ze, and
loose sailing ice, intc^rsperscd with many heavy floe pieces ; the main
pack was about tliroe miles to the N.W. apparently one solid mass.
At 11.30 a.m- high land was observed on the port bow, bearing
N.K.b.N., distant about filV; niiloH. On api)r(>achiiig it the main pack
appeared to bo resting on Uio woHtern shore, which side it was njy in-
tention to have coasted had it been p()Hsil)Ie ; the oantern one being,
however, ctimparatively clear ns far aw could be ascertaine<l from tho
must-hcad, decided mo to follow tho water, supposing it an island
round which a passage would ho found into the Polar Sea.

Wo continued working to windward tho wh()l(< of tho night, an<l by
9.30 a.m. of the 7tli, wor<« off tho South (Ui\)i\ a fiiu? bold headland,
tho clilt's rising perpendicularly upwards of a tliounand foot, which was
named " Lord N«'lson Head," in nuMuory of tho hero whoso early ca-
reer was oonnocted with Arctic adventure. Wo shortly ai't<'rwardM
hove to, and, with tho first, whaloboat an<l <Mittor, landed luxl look pos-
session, in the name of lior most gracious MiijoHty, calling it " Muring
Isliind," in honour of tlio First Lord of tho Admirnlty. A pole was
erected, with a larg«^ painted hall upon it, near n cask, which win h'ft,
containing a iiiiiili<>iitioii imd oilier partieuliirs of our having been
there. The sights obtained by liititicial hori/.on plac<^ the signal-stafi'
in hit. 7P' ()' N., long. 123" VV. ; and the fall of tho tide was ascer-
iaiiio<t III lie six inches diM'ing *>mo hour niid a hull'. We nl<s(>rved nu-

PRINCK AT-HEUT ISLAND.

nocrous recent traces of reindeer, hiire, and wild fowl ; moss and divers
species of wild flowers were also in great abundance ; many specimens
of them equally, as of other aiibjects, of interest to the naturalist, were
selected with much care by Dr. Armstrong. From an elevation ob-
tained of about .'JOO feet, we had a fine view towards the interior,
which was well clothed with moss, giving a verdant apj)earance to the
range of hills that rose gradually to between 2,000 and 3,000 feet, in-
tersected with ravines, which must convey a copious supply of water
to a large lake situated in the centre of a wide plain, about fifteen miles
distant. The sight to seaward was favourable in the extreme, open
water, with a very small quantity of ice, for the distance of full forty
miles towards the east, insured good progress in tiiat direction.

Returning on board at 1 p.m., we made sail to the eastward, having
a beating wind. Continued working along shore, in soundings varying
from nim^ to seventy-six fathoms, dai'k mud mixed with yellow (;lay,
until close to the land, when it changed to fine white sand. Tlie wea-
ther Iwcoming foggy, our lead was the only guide until 10 a.ni. of the
9th ; it then cleared for a short time, when land was observed to tin;
eastward about fifteen miles distant, extending to the northward uh far
as tiie eye could reach. The mountains in the interior are lofty and
snow-eovered, while the low ground is <juite free. Several very re-
markable peaks were discernible, ap|)arently of volcanic origin. This
discovery was named Princ^e Albert Island, in honour of lur Majesty's
consort, in hit. 72" 1' N., hmg. 119" 25' W., continuing our course
slowly to the N.E., in consequence of thick fog, snow, and bafiling
winds.

At H a./n. of the 10th, we we"0 near two rocky islets, named after
H.R.H. the Princess Royal, the largest being about (iOO feet in height,
and a mile and a half in length, the southern and eastern sides being
pre(;ipitous: the other was about a quarter of a mile long and a hun-
dred feet high, gradually sloping to the water's edge, repivsenting very
much the appearance of an inverted whaleboat. The wind becoming
fair, and weather clearing, all the studding sails were set, with the
hope of reaching Burrow Straits, from whi<*h we were now distant
about seventy miU^s, as the water was tolerably clear in that «lirection,
although nnich ice was lying against the western land, and from a
shoal extending towards it from the largest of the Princess Royal Is-
lands, upon which we obtained thirteen fathoms water. Much loose
ice was also in motion, and while endeavouring to run between two
ficM's, at (he ral<' of four knots, they ch)sed so rapidly, one upon either
beiini, that our way was instantly stopped, and the vessel lifti'd consi-
derably : in this posttiim we w«*re detained a (puirter of an hour, when
the pressure eased and we proceeded. Our advance was of short dura-
tion, as at 2 p.m. tlie wind suddenly shifted to the N.K. and began to
freshen. 'I'he water, which a few liours previ«)us had excited sanguine
hopes of a good run, beeaint* soon thickly studdeil with fit es, that by 4
p.m. there was scarcely sufilrient to keep the ship free. This by niiicli
exeition was, liovv(>v«'r, efiected. until 2 n.ni. of the llth, w^ienwe
were be^et. At o a.m. the ice again opened, which adnitted of our

TliK NORTH-WBST PASSAOE.

getting a few miles to the N.E., until 1 1.30 a.m., when our course was
impeded by a very dense pack. At 7 p.m. the wind shifting to the
N.W., set the whole body of the ice upon the eastern shore, which
shoaled our water from 80 to 50 fathoms in one hour. A clear space
of two wiles was, however, the result of this movement, in which we
continued working the whole night, and upon the morning of the 12th
perceived we had lost some miles, as the pack was in motion to the
southward ; also the further mortification of seeing the whole of the
western shore perfectly exempt from ice, while the space of water we
occupied was become rapidly more limited by very large and heavy
floes, through which we were unabled to force, and at 1 1 a.m. were
again beset.

A fresh gale, with snow, which continued until the morning of the 13th,
pressed the ice so heavily upon the Vt^ssel that the rudder was unhung
to prevent its being damaged ; during the night the temperature fell
to 10°, and the land became completely snow-covered. On the 15th,
however, it rose to 30°, with the Avind from the S.W., which set the
ice in motion, compelling us to shift our berth to avoid collision with
an immense floe. At 2.36 a.m. commenced warping, which tedious
and laborious duty continued with but slight intermission until half-
past 12, when we passed into clear water. A run of five miles to the
N.E. brought us to another icy field too dense to penetrate, extending
from shore to shore, which is here about 12 miles asunder. The
weather towards sunset becoming thick with snow, wo ran into six
fathoms, and secured to a piece of grounded ice under the western
land, with the intention of remaining during the night, as they were
then long and dark, therefore navigating among close ice is quite im-
practicable. The wind, which ha<l been fresh from the S.W. during
the day, about 7 p.m. fell liglit, when the ice in the N.E., no longer
restrained, spread with such rapidity that at a little after 8 it was
observed ap])roaching, its white lino clearly defined running like an
unbroken wave along the dark smooth water. To turn the hands up,
make sail, and cast off the warps, was but the work of a few miuutes ;
yet, with such violence was it impelled, that we had scarcely time to
tow clear of the piece wo had been fast to befoi-e it encircled the vessel,
sweeping her away to the S.W. into five fathoms. I expected to have
be(^n driven on the b<>ach ; fortunately, from some unseen cause, its
course was changed to the 8.K., which took us into 20 fathoms ; thuH
fluctuating between hojws and fears until 11.45 p.m., when its progress
was mysteriously arn^sted, and gradually opening allowed of our run-
ning into clear water.

As the navigable seasim was now drawing to a close, which the fall
in the temperatun*, as well as the formation of pancak(« ice upon the sur-
face of the water whenever the wind became light, uiunistakeably pointed
out, it became a subje<rt of anxious consideration what course to adopt
in regard to the safety of tlu* ves-telj whether, by running to the south-
ward, in which dire<'tion the water was still o|)en, U) (endeavour to
obtain a harbour in one of the bays indenting the sotith-eastern side of
Baring Land, the nearest, probably, being (>() miles distant, and then

lat.

ImIi
111
finn
of .»■
nip

Upd

ati(
the
niij-
wit

rniNCE ALBERT LAND.

only the chauce of finding a sate unchorage, which, if our search proved
a failure, would place the vessel in a worse situation than at present,
exposing her to a wide sea range, subject to heavy pressure from the
enormous nmssive floes with which the Polar Sea is encumbered, from
which wo are here protected by the Princess Royal Islands ; or, continue
our advance to the north-east as long as the season permitted, and
then submit to the only alternative, that of hazarding a winter in the
pack. I decided upon the latter, for these reasons — that to relinquish
the ground obtained through so much difficulty, labour, and anxiety,
for only the remote chance of finding safe winter quarters, would bo
injudicious, thoroughly impressed as I am with the absolute importance
of retaining every mile to insure any favourable results while navi-
gating those seas, the loss of which might frustrate the operations of a
whole season. Above all, being in the vicinity of Banks Land, and
in the direction which Sir J. Franklin would in all probability have
endeavoured to penetrate could he have reached Cape Walker, I there-
fore considered that our position was most eligible for carrying into
full effect the instructions of my Lords Connnissioners of the Admiralty
when the season becomes favourable for dispatching parties npon this
important and interesting search. These, sir, were the considerations
which influenced mo in this " choice of difficulties," and they will, I
trust, appear of sufficient validity to meet with the concurrence of their
lordships, hazardous as was the experiment.

At 6 a.m. of the i7th the wind, which had been light from the
N.W., gradually died away, when w(! were almost immediately beset.
There were several heavy floes in the vicinity ; one, full six miles in
length, passed at the rate of two knots, crushing everything impeding
its progress, and grazed our starboard bow. Fortunately there was
but young ice upon the opposite side, which yielded to the pressure ;
had it otherwise occurred, the vessel must inevitably liavo been cut
asunder.

In the afternoon secured to a moderate sized piece, drawing 8
fathoms, which appeared to offer a fair refuge, and from which wo
never afterwards parted ; it (tonveyed us to our furthest N.E. position,
hit. 73" 7' N., long. 117" KV W., back round the Princess Royal
Islands. Passed the largest within 500 yards to hit. 72" 42' N., long.
118° 42' W., returning along the coast of Prince Albert Land, and
finally freezing in at hit. 72" 50' N., long. 117" 55' W., upon the 30th
of September, during which circumnavigation we received many severe
nips, and wcie fre<iuently driven close to the shore, from which our
d(H)p fri(!nd kept us off. Tt» avoid separation we had secured with two
Btreain ciihles, (one chain,) two (> and two 5-inch hawsers.

As our <!Xposed position rendered every precaution necessary, wo got
upon deck a twelvemonth's provisions, with tents, warm clothing, iic,
and issued to (tach pe>'son a pair of carpet boots and blanket bug, that in
the even} of any I'mergency making it imperative to tpiit the vessel w«^
might not L" so dest it ute. The Hlh of October our perpl(>xities terminated
with n nip tliAt lifted the vessel a foot, and heeled her tour degrees to port.

THE N0RTH-WB6T PASSAGE.

in consequence of a large tongue getting beneath her, in ivhich position
we quietly remained. As, however, there was a probability of being
thrown upon the ice, it was requisite that a smooth surface should be
made to receive the vessel, which was accomplished with much facility
by blasting the hummocks along the edge of the floe for about 150
yards, and twenty in breadth. This done, and every indication of the
pack being now thoroughly cemented, with a temperature of 7° minits,
we completed housing over, and other arrangements for our winter
quarters.

As the weather upon the 10th was calm and fine, and the ice quiet,
at 8.30 a.m. left the ship, accompanied by Lieutenant Cresswell, Dr.
Armstrong, and Mr. Miertsching. with a party of seamen, carrying a
pole, &c., to plant upon the shores of Prince Albert Land, which we
proceetled to take possession of in the name of her moat gracious
Majesty. This accomplished, we walked to the highest hill observable
at the distance of tive miles, to an elevation of 1,500 feet, which gave
an extended view in every direction.

The country was very hilly, with deep ravines and large lakes.
This appears the general character of the land on both shores. The
course of the water towards the N.E. we were anxious to trace, hoping
to see an opening into Barrow Strait. In this we were disappointed,
from the many low points intervening, rendering it impossible to ascer-
tain the land from the sea, both being frozen, On our return we had
the mortification to find that the land and sea ice had separated about
100 yards along the whole line of coast. We walked by its margin
for some miles, hoping to meet with a loose piece of ice to ferry us
across ; but night closing rapidly, subjected us to so many falls, owing
to the inequalities of our road not being distinguishable, we were com-
]>elled to halt, and commence firing to attract attention, but our distance
from the ship was too far to render our signals of any utility.

At 8.30 p.m. Mr. Court, with one of the many parlies that were
searching the ice in all directions, fortunately saw our flnnhing and
made for it; but, unsuspecting our dilemma was cteated by open
water, had no boat ; inmiediately returning, he met with a party v/hich
had two of Halkett's. These were soon launched, only getting through
the pancake ice, which was by this time an inch thick, was attended
with great diiliculty. The sea ice also rapidly setting to the northward,
the boats aft.er each transit had to be carried south before being
launched, so as to insure their reaching the only spot from which the
party to be relieved could embark. This o|K>ration conmienced at
10.30 p.m., and by midnight we were all over, and reached the shir at
2.30 a.m., all piirties meeting with heavy falls, but receiving no acci-
dent of consequence.

I cannot refrain from noticing the excellence of Halkett's boats, or
speak in too high terms of the ingenuity of the inventor. These admi-
rable little articles were inflated on board, and with the greatest facility
carried upon a man's shoulders over ice which, from its excessive
roughness, no other boat could by any possibility have been got across

am
the
gni
ill

(1"

(

BANKS LAND.

)•'

without being smaehed. By their means a large party were relieved,
who were without tents, clotliing, fuel, provisions, or in any way pro-
vided to withstand the severities of a polar night, with the thermometer
8° mimes. The consequences to tliein might have been very serious ;
as it was, however, the annexation of Prince Albert Land to the British
crown was considered to have terminated so favourably, that I directed
an extra supper and allowance of grog to be issued to my energetic
crew as a reward for their eight hours' rigorous exertions.

Being dissatisfied with the view obtained from Prince Albert Land
respecting the waters we were now in as to their connection wiih
Barrow Straits, which would settle the question of a north-west pas-
sage, I determined to proceed in that direction with a travelling party,
although rather late in the season, as soon as I felt that the vessel
might be safely quitted, which I judged would occur after the ensuin/;
spring tides, if at that {)eriod there was no commotion among the ice.
Accordingly, upon the 21st, everything being favourable, I starte I
with Mr. Court, second master, and the following men — Robert Caldei ,
captain of the forecastle ; Robert Tiffeny, captain of the maintop ;
Micliael Flinn, quartermaster ; George Brown, A.B. ; Peter Thomson,
captain of the foretop ; and James Saunders, private, Royal Marine 5.
Tlie ice, for two miles from the ship, was so rough that Lieutcnaiit
Ilaswell and the whole of the ship's company, were occupied in
carrying tlio sledge and different articles of lading. At 8 a.m. the
slodgo was finally packed, when, with the fatigue party in charge, of,
Mr. Wynniatt, (mate,) accompanie<l by Dr. Armstrong, as an amateur,
wo set off to the north-east; at noon the fatigue party, having tak m
us eight miles, were directed to return. Soon after quitting us we
got among very difficult ice. The sledge was broken, but quickly
fishing it, we proceeded. Unfortunately, scarcely an hour had elnpsnd,
when in crossing a floe, the inequalities of which were imperceptible,
it came down with such a crash that it broke into pieces. This was
unlucky, but, pitching our tent, Mr. Court and Peter Thomson (capt lin
of the foretop) started An" the ship, wliere they arrived at 7.30 p. o.,
and rejoined the next day at 2 p.m., with a fresh and larger |sle Igo
and a fatigue i)arty, with Mr. VVynniatf to carry tlie damaged one
one back. (This party, upon my return, i found did not get on bo ird
until the following diiy, b(Mng stopped by lieavy snow drift, but h'tying
a tent and provisions did not suffer.)

As soon US the n(>w coiners were refreshed, the sledge was packed,
and by i\ p.m. wore again off, continuing our course without any fur-
tlier disaster, until ;).4o p.m. of l\\o 2()tli, when we had the cxfrenio
gratification of pitcliing our tent upon the shores of Barrow Straits,
in hit. 73" 31' N., h)ng. 1 U'^ 39' W. (chronometer), long. 1 14° 14' VV.
(lunar), nearly on the line, as rej)r(!S(>iite(l in th(» charts, where Sir
E<lward I'arry has very ctirrcctly marked the loom of tlie lan<l.

On the following morning, before sunrise, Mr. (/ourt and myself
ascended a small hill about GOO feet in height, so that we could com-
mand nn extensive view of forty or fifty miles. The extreme point.

TUB NOllTH-WKST I'ASSAOIK.

of Prince Albert Land bore lat. 78° E. (true), about thirty-five miles, the
farthest land north, N.N.E., eight miles. The Melville Island shore
could not be discovered, but in that direction the ice appears to be
very heavy, and the floes exceedingly large. While we were making
these observations, the crew were busily engaged erecting a basin
about fifteen feet above the water (>vhich had been named Prince of
Wales Strait, in honour of H.R.H.), in which a copper cylinder was
deposited. The spot is so conspicuous, that any person passing along
the shore must remark it. All being completed by 10 a.m. of the
27th we turned for the ship, arriving upon the morning of the 31st,
having, in nine days, made in a direct line 156 miles by observations,
with a temperature between 7° and 15°.

From the afternoon of the 30th the weather, which had been over-
east, suddenly brightened, showing the Princess Royal Islands, distant
about twelve miles. At 3 p.m. I left the sledge, with the intention of
getting early on board, to have everything in I'eadiness for the comfort
of the party, anticipating their arrival at 9 p.m. Unfortunately, the
weather became again foggy about 5 p.m., followed soon by darkness,
consequently my way was speedily lost, compelling me to wander about
the floe during the night, with a tempei'ature from 5° to 15" minus,
when at 7 the next morning had the mortification to find that I had
passed the vessel four miles, which I reached by 8.30 a.m., and imme-
diately dispatched a party to assist Mr. Court, who was at five miles
distance, having most judiciously encamped about seven miles from the
ship, when the fog became too dense to travel.

I was agreeably surprised to learn from Lieutenant Haswell that on
the 29lh a party, consisting of Messrs. Sainsbury, Paine, Miertsching,
and Newton, whi'.e sporting upon Prince Albert Land, had encoun-
tered a herd of musk cattle, two bulls, a cow, an heifer, and a calf, and,
most adroitly, shot the whole, which yielded l,296lbs. of excellent
nutritious meat. A supply thus opportune and unexpected may be
regarded as a most favourable termination to our season's operations,
in which we have been nearly enabled to carry out verbatim their
lordships* instructions, in reaching the ice by the Ist of August, and
establishing a position near Banks Land, which services have been
performed under circumstances over which we could exercise but little
control, our only credit consisting in seizing the advantages that an
Invisible Power scattered along our road, through fields of ice, where
all human exertion would have been equally unavailing as the feeble-
ness of a child to advance us one yard.

The winter — that dreary period of the voyage which I had looked
forward to with much apprehension — passed mildly away, there being
very little snow or wind, without our sanitary state being in the slight-
est degree? impaired, for which happiness 1 assign these reasons — viz. :

1. The uiifJr.-igiiig spirits and cheerfulness of the men.

2. The ejcellency of every species of pr«)vi8ion8.
»I The free ventilation of the lower deck.

4. Thrj extreme attention of Dr. Arm.slrong (upon our monthly in-
spections) to the state of the crew.

BANKS LAND.

'f^^

So that the month of March found us in a most healthy and effi-
cient condition. Accordingly, upon the 3rd, we commenced our pre-
liminary duties by taking a 30-foot whale-boat to the larger Princess
Royal Island, where it is my intention to leave three months' provi-
sions for all hands, that, at the breaking up of the ice, should the
vessel unfortunatc4y get crushed, we may have a certainty to fall back
upon, which will enable us to reach the Plover without hazard of
starvation. This duty being completed, as well as the transporting
another whale-boat besides one of Halkett's to the eastern shore,
distant five miles, for the facility of allowing the travelling parties
going along that coast, should the ice break up and carry the vessel
away during their absence. All arrangements being now made for
the start of the searching parties, and the weather becoming very fa-
vourable, upon the 18th of April three were dispatched: under Lieu-
tenant HaswcU, S.E. shore; Lieutenant Cresswell, N.W. shore; and
Mr. Wynniatt, (Mate,) N.E. shore ; with six weeks* provisions each.

May 6th. — At 1 a.m., Mr. Wynniatt, having broken his chrono-
meter, at the distance of 120 miles from the ship, returned; but, all
being in good condition they wei'e completed to thirty days' provisions,
and at 6 p.m. were again en route. At the same time, two hunting
l)artie3 with tents, &c., left the ship — one for each side of the Straits,
as sonic deer had been seen, besides several ptarmigan and four hares
shot. Tins early indication of fresii provisions is a subject of deep
congratulation, independent of the very healthy and exciting occupa-
tion of the crew, who are all eager for the sport.

20th. — Lieutenant Cresswell returned in consequence of the severe
bites of two of the men, having reached lat. 74° 16' N., long. 117°
40' W. ; being absent thirty-one days. During the greater part of
the time he was subject to strong N.W. winds, sweeping from the
Polar Sea through Barrow Strait, which, meeting him in the face,
rendered it exceedingly difficult to walk against, the thermometer being
frequently 15^ below zero. He, however, traced the coast line, which,
for about seventy miles along Banks Land, was very precipitous, aver-
aging from 1,000 to 1,400 feet, from which it gradually sloped to a
point trending to S.W., apparently the extreme of the land in that
direction, as it abruptly turned to southwards. An elevation of a
thousand feet, aided by an exceedingly clear atmosphere, left no doubt
in his mind but that the Polar Sea was before him, and that Banks
Land is a part of Baring Island. He was anxious to have made a
further advance, and encamped during two days with the hope that
the invalids would recover, but, finding them getting nmch worse, he,
very properly, deemed it advisable to return with all imste to the ship.
Before reaching her, however, both had to be borne upon the sledge,
which throw the work upon four men ; when, getting into iieavy snow,
tiio otficer had to fall in at the drag ropes ; nevertheless, the working
party arrived in most excellent health and spirits.

On tiie 21st a large bear was killed. Upon examination of the
stomach an extraordinary medley was discovered, consisting of raisins,

THR NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

tobacco, pork, and adhesive plaster, that I came to the conclusion that
the Enterprise must be near, the animal not having been seen before
near our dirt heap, nor were there any traces of him about the ship.
I therefore determined to send a party to the S.W., the only direction
we had no travellers, to satisfy myself upon the subject. Accordingly,
at 6 p.m., on the 22nd, Lieutenant Cresswell, with his party completed
with two fresh hands, was again dispatched, with provisions until
June 1 0th.

On the 24th the above mystery was satisfactorily solved. Some
men in pursuit of a bear about half a mile from the ship picked up a
preserved meat tin, with articles in it identical with those found in the
stomach of the bear killed on the 21st; the foot prints of the animal
were likewise abundant on the snow. This evidence was perfectly
conclusive as to the locality where bruin had obtained his dainties.
This being the anniversary of the birthday of Her Most Gracious
Majesty, a royal salute was fired, and the colours displayed in cele-
bration of the event.

29th. — Lieutenant Haswell and party returned, all in the most per-
fect health, having traced the coast towards Wollaston Land to lat,
70° 38' N., long. 115° W. ; from which point, the day being remark-
ably clear, he observed the outline of land to the distance of full forty
miles trending to the S.W. ; but, having advanced twenty-five days,
he considered it prudent to proceed no further. Two large inlets and
a deep bay were examined, besides an archipelago of small islands
along the northernmost shore of the southernmost inlet, which is high,
bold, and stratified, each inlet trending to the E.N.E., from eighty to
ninety miles. The whole coast was strewed with driftwood, and many
vestiges of Esquimaux encampments were met with, but of a very old
date. On returning he was most surprised to find a party, consisting
of eighteen natives, encamped upon the ice a few miles from the N. W.
point of the northernmost inlet, in quest of seals ; but, not understand-
ing each other, no information could be obtained. They exchanged a
few presents ; and upon that day week he arrived on board, having
remained out his forty-two days, thereby fulfilling his instructions to
the letter.

In consequence of the above, I immediately decided upon proceed-
ing to these people for the purpose of obtaining information that might
determine the question relating to the Prince Albert, Wollaston, and
Victoria Lands, as to their forming part of the American continent,
or whether each was an island. Therefore, taking Mr. Miertsching
(our invaluable interpreter) and twelve days' provisions, at 6 p.m. wo
started, and early upon Juno 3rd, foil in with them about ten miles to
the nortliward of the point where they were first met with. Tiioy
conversed freely with the interpreter, giving every information we re-
quired, relative to the trending of the coast, as far as they knew,
which was some distance along Victoria Land. This they did by
tracing upon a largo sheet of paper which I brought for that purpose,
continuing a sketch which Mr. Micrtschinur had made iVom tlie ship

CIVILIZED KSQUIMAIX.

to their tents, which they immediately comprehended, and as they
wore very particular in placing the Islands of " Lutton" and " Liston"
with three smaller ones not mentioned in the chart, off Wollaston
Land, I am, therefore, fully persuaded of its correctness, and only re-
gretted tliat they could not go further (a tracing of wliich accom-
panies this narrative). They describe a large land opposite Wollas-
ton, called " Nunavaksaraluk," (this, of course, is Amcnca,) to which
they had never been, as they only trade with the Esquimaux to the
S.E. ; nor had they the slightest article of European manufacture
about them. The use and sight of iron was perfectly new, all their
implements being copper, their spears and arrows barbed with the
same.

The copper ore is remarkably fine ; but, not observing any when at
the tents, the specimen was given mo some time after quitting them ;
unfortunately we lost the opportunity of inquiring where it was pro-
cured, but I am inclined to think that it comes from the south-east
tribes, in their bartering transactions, as the few and simple ornaments
whicii tliey possessed were of that metal and obtained from thence.
They are a kind, simple, and purely pastoral tribe, devoid of the
knavish propensities which so strongly characterize those upon the
Mackenzie and Colvile, where intercourse with civilized man has de-
moralized the savage. Upon displaying the presents brought for them,
the utmost propriety was observed. Although, doubtless, all men
were anxious to participate in those treasures, thei*e was not that
eagerness to seize which rendered our interchanges with the other
Esquimaux so troublesome ; so far was it from these to do so, that it
was with difficulty we could persuade them to accept without our re-
ceiving an equivalent, they inquiring of the interpreter, after each
article was given them, what we wanted for it.

A piece of scarlet cloth, which I tied round a girl's neck, remained
there until we were going away, when she ran up to Mr. Miertsching
to ask what she was to give in exchange, and, when assured it was a
gift from the chief, she gracefully acknowledged it with a smile. No
weapons were remarked among them, except for the chase : their whole
demeanour bespoke peace. Tliey live near their present locality the
whole year, not going any further to the northward, nor do they be-
lieve that there are any others in that direction ; but to the S.E., along
Victoria and Wollaston Land, the coast is thickly populated. It ap-
pears very extraordinary that they do not even possess traditionary
legends of their ancestors having been north, where the numerous
traces which we meet with upon both sides of the Straits, as well as
on the large Princess Royal Island, show that at one period the whole
of this coast must have been densely populated ; their language, Mr.
Miertsching observes, is identical with that spoken upon the Labrador
coast. At 9.30 wo left this interesting people and returned to tho
ship, wliich we reached at 7 p.m. of the 5th, exceedingly gratified by
the result of our pleasant excursion, our only misfortime being Cor-
nelius Uullott, my coxswain, having both feet badly frost-nipped.

THE NORTU-WElST PASSAKi:.

At 5 a.xu. of the 7th, Mr. Wynniatt (Mate) leturneil with his party,
having been fifty days under the tent. From his exploration of a
portion of the soutli-eastern shores of Barrow Strait, m far as lat.
72° 6' N., long. 107° 42' W. (D.ll.), whence the land was observed
for about fifteen miles trending to the N.E., after rounding Point Peel,
lat. 73° 21' N., long. 112° 30' W„ the N.W. point of Prince Albert
Land, he reports it to bo in all respects, as to formation, tlio same as
in this vicinity, for the distance of about forty miles, when, upon
crossing a deep inlet, the land then assumed a N.W. aspect, when it
became high, precipitous, and barren. No driftwood of any descrip-
tion was met with, but the ice lay against its base in heavy and un-
broken masses. Further to the eastward a lesser one was circumam-
bulated, having in it several smaller islands, with its southern shore
formed of stratified cliff, having an elevation of about 800 feet.

On tiie lOtii, at 7.45 am.. Lieutenant Cresswell and party, having
completed their nineteen days, returned from their search towards the
S.W., (to lat. 71° 10' N., long. 123" 4' W.,) making in the aggregate
fifty under the tent ; during which he has coasted three sides of Baring
Island, from the nortli siiore of which he looked upon the Polar Sea,
and upon the south walked twenty-four miles on it, both i)resenting
the same smooth surface, which I consider to be attributable to th(^
1 )ng prevalence of nortli-easterly winds at tlie termination of tiic
navigable season setting the heavy ice which we encountered, and saw
resiing upon the western side of the island, over to the American and
Asiatic siun'es, which may cause the great difiiculty in rounding Point
Barrow late in tl»o senson, ITntijrtunatoly, the weather became over-
cast, which limited his view to the northward, only allowing him to
observe that the coast was high and bold

On this excursion he met with four [lartitions of the ice, varying in
breadth from ten tj twenty feet, apparently running across the Strait ;
but, being pr . 'od with one of 11 alltett's valuable little boats, this
obstacle, which vould otherwise liave caused a detour of many miles,
was easily overcome. It is impossible to reconnnend these boats too
highly upon a service of this description, where every article of weight
is objectionable, 'llw'w whole fitting is but 2511). When not recpiired
they form a platform on the sledge to stov the baggage*, and when in
use they are carrietl Infiated upon tlie top. Thus, on two occasions,
they have been of essential servi<'e, without thesnuillest inconvenience.

Lieutenant Cn^sswcll erected a cairn, and deposited a eylindi-r
within it u(H)n a low beach near (*<ipe Lambion. lie also remarked
the vestiges of Ks(|uimaux enean)pments upon almost every part of
the coast upon which he pitched his tent for the nighi, many of tliem

I lie nil
th(^ he

thickly strewed witli thi^ heads of nuisk oxen, which denotes no paucity
of those animals upon these lands; inde(ul, at the present time, both
shores oi' the Strait are covered with wildfowl of every description,
nuisk ox(*n, deer, hares, ptarmigan, ami golden |)lover. Thiti is cer-
tainly the most fertile part of tlu^ Polar regions, and must Ix^ the
breeding plauu of those KnininU, whiuh find rich pusturoge nmong its

set

S|>(

Mu(

vei

hiiv

nor

IlK

™

l)n

slii|

ami
bill

teiti

oil

(dli

PKINCK OF WALES STRAIT.

alluvial plains and valleys, unmolested by the Esquimaux, the traces
of wrhoso remains being overgrown with moss and rotten, have refer-
ence to a time long anterior. Tliis party, with much spirit and zeal,
performed their return journey of upwards of 160 miles in nine days
and a half, under circumstances reflecting much credit upon them, the
lateness of the season being unfavourable to so rapid an advance.

All being now on board and in excellent health, with the exception
of three of the travellers suffering from foot-nips, our season's opera-
tions may be considered to have terminated fortunately ; and, from the
close examination which has been made over a vast extent of coast,
whoso direct distance, by observation, embraces 800 miles, to which a
tliird may be added for the devious windings of the coast-line, with-
out observing the slightest vestiges of any spar or other indication of
civili/.ed man having reached these shores. I am fully confident that
the minsing expedition under Sir John Franklin has never penetrated
townnls the I'olar Sea in this direction, as some portion of the initnenso
iiuiHs of Htores, spars, or fitments with which those ships were provided
must have been picked up, when driftwood of very inconsiderable
dimensions did not escape observation. (A chart, showing the extent
of discovery and course of each searching-party, accompanies this
letter. )

I am also of opinion that Prince Albert Land in part of the conti-
nent of America, and that Point Peel is its N.W. extremity, and that
the land Ihenee is continuous to C'iip(^ Walker. Tiie peculiar Ibrma-
ti(»n of its shores, from the very deep inlets which run into the int^'Hor,
give the appearance of Straits, which, in reality, do not exist, as was
apnarently ihe case betw(<en Victoria and Wolliiston Lands, and which
is, very probably, tin' same between Cajx' Walker and Ncrtli Somer-
set. My opinion is Htrengtiiened by the KHiptimaux upon this roust
spenking the same langniige as those of Hudson Straits, which Mr.
Miei-tscliiiig, tlie interpreter, thoroughly understands, and <'onversed
MiKuitly with tJMMn, while with those of the Colvileand Cape Hathurst
he found it somelimes ditlicidt to lo so. Conseipu'iitly, 1 think it
very probable I hut the lorelatliers of thes(< havi> crossed from Hudson
Straits, and kept tlu^ euast-lini! of Vietoriii and WoUaston liand, and
have thus retaineil (be |)in'ity of tlicM* language, wliieh thos(> upon the
north coast of America liavc^ lost by constant inti^rcouise with the
Indians. I eertaiiiiy sliould luive considered it my duty to endeavour
to ijecide thi-t point by d(>taciiing a Itoai through the Dolphin and
Union Straits, b\il I feel assured that service has been accomplished
by Dr. Uae last year, as he <wideiitly was not in tliis direction.

During the alts(<nee of the searching-parties the refilling <»!' 'he
ship was carried on, inider the direction of Messrs. Sainsbnry (Mate)
ami t'onrt (second Male), so that upon their return litlle remaiiu'd
but to gel the boats from the eastern shore, and the tenis and appur-
tenances which llie shooting parties liad upon <>ach .Mile of thi^ Strait
on board, the weather being unfavourable and the state of <h(^ Wy\ bo-
coming too precarious to allow of any persons being so far distant from

THE NORTH-WEST J'AStsAWE.

tho ship. This being effected, as also the repairing and painting ol* a
boat which is to be left with the provisions at the large Princess Royal
Island, completed upon the 13th, we had the satisfaction of having
every one on board, with the vessel thoroughly refitted, caulked,
painted, and watered, and in every respect as efficient for the service
we have to perform as the day we quitttnl Plymouth, with a trifling
sick-list, principally froni tho effects of frost-nips and foot-soreness
from tho travelling. We now await, with no little anxiety, the dis-
ruption of these mighty masses of ice by which we are encircled and
the consequences depending iipon that event, which cannot be con-
tcmphiird without deep a|)prch('nsion.

Tlie iirst indication of open water occurred to-day (July 7th, 1851),
extending some distance along the shore of Printie Albert Land, about
a mile m width. Tlio ice in every direction is so rapidly decaying,
being nuicli accelerated by sleet and rain, with the thermometer stand-
ing at -ir)", so that by the 14th that wiiich for the last f(^w days had
been sligiitly in motion, with large S|)aees of water intervening, sud-
denly and noiselessly opened around the vessel, leaving her in a pond of
forty yards; but, seeing no possibility of getting without its limits, we
were compelle<l to secure to the Hoe whicii had for ten months befriended
us, and, with the wiiole of the pack, gradually driftt'd to the southward,
towards the Princess Uoyal Islands, which we passed on the eastern
side, within half a mile.

On the I7lh, at 10 a.m., being among loose ice, wo oast off from
the flo<> and made sail with the hopi; of getting upon the western
shore, where the water appeared to be making, but without shipping
the rudder, in consecpienco of being in the vicinity of several largo
Hoes, and, at 2 p.m., again secured to a iloe, between the Princess
lioyal and Hitiing Islands (we pass<.>d ov(t a shoal having 19 fathoms).

()ii (he liOth, at 1 l.'M) a.m., a light air from the S.W., which slack-
ing the ice, gave hopes of making [irogn'ss to the N.K., in whi< h di-
rection I was anxious to get for tlie purpose of entering harrow Strait,
that, according to ( ircumslances, I might be enabled to carry out my
original intentions of proceeding to the northward of MelvilU^ Island,
as detailed in njy letter to the Se<'retiny of the Admiralty of July
'JOth, IH.'>(): or, should such not be pnicticable, return to Kngland
through iIk^ Strait. The ship was cast off and a mile gained, when
the wind dii'd away, and wt< w»'re again besot,

()i. the niorui- g of the 22nd, o|ien water appearing in the N.E.,
the rudder was sliipped in expectation of a start, which was not, how-
ever, realised until the afternoon of the 2iird, when a light H.W. wind
set th* ice to the N'.K., carrying us over a shoal upon which thert*
WHM nnti'ti ice, ■"id we grounded in l!i fathoms. The corner of tho
tlot' to wtiM li we wen iillueln'd, roniiix/ in contact with some of these
masses, gave way, thruwinj' pieces of twelve and fotnl<'en leet scpiare
conipli ft Iv out of iIt water. It grazed the hard holtuiii with a sound
not uiillKi distant thunder, a^ it eruslied, crumbled, and upheaved,
throwing till tMinrmous mound U|> m its ccntir, ha il under the intluencc

lie

nit

STANDTNrt K<m VARROW STRAIT,

of volcanic agency, and then rent asunder ; the prrt wo were secured
to renmining flruily grounded, while the other and lighter portion,
being forced onwards with accelerated speed, came direct for our un-
protected stern. To let go warps and anchors was but the work of a
minute, and most fortunate were we in accomplishing it ; as, ere they
could b«; got on board, it struck the stern, forcing the ship ahead at
the rate of two knots. A small space of open water, occasioned by
th(i! grounding of the floe, allowed of our advance ; when, by warping
and towing, we speedily got beyond its influence. Had our position
b«'(!n less favourable, nothing could have saved the vessel from mo-
mentary destruction.

At 1 l.JJO p.m., with a breeze from the S.E., made sail through largo
leads of water towards the eastern side of the straits, and by the after-
noon of the 24th, had nearly reached Point Armstrong, on which the
ice was resting, and our course chocked. There was much drift wood
on the beach, mostly American pine;. The cutter was consetpiently
dispatched for a load, and som<? of the piec<!s appeared so fresh, that
Mr. Ford, the carpenter, was <jf opinion that two years is the (sxtremo
of their quitting the forest. The wind veering to the westward during
the night, sist large bodies of ice into the water wo occupied, which
was lilling rapidly. To prevent being forced on shore, wo were obliged
at H a.m. of the 2«'3th, to run into the pack, where wo drifted, accord-
ing to the tide, about a mih; and a half from the beach ; but during
the twenty-four hours made about two miles and a half to the N.E.,
from which I am of opinion, when taken witli the (pnintity of drift
wood that is thickly strewed along the beach, that on this side of the
strait ther(> is a sligiit current to the N.K., while upon tiie opposite ono
it sets to tiie KO'dliward, on which there is scaniely any wood, and our
prngrossj wliil. similiirly situp.t^'d, was in a southern direction.

We coiitimied drifling in the pack, without meeting any obstruction,
until 10 a.m. of the l^t of August, when a sudden aiul most unex«
pected motion of the ice swept us with much velocity (o the N.K., to-
wards a low point ofl' which wim'O several shoals, having many lieavy
piec(<s of grounded ieo upon (liem, towards which we were din'clly
setliiig, <le(!reasing the soundings from 21 to !>) fathoms. Destruction
WHS apparently not I'lir distant, wlx n, most opportunely, thi; ic(> <<nsed
a lillle, and a l'n>sh wind coming from the liind, siiil was iininediiitely
made, whi'li, assisted by wiirps. enableil the ship <o l»e forced ii-h<>ild
al)(iii( 2()<k yiirds, thiit sliot us clear of ii e into Iti) liiliionis, in which
water we roundeti the shottU. 'JMie ice then r.gnin closed, and t\w ship
heciime llxed UPlil the Mill, when (he fog, whieh sinec yesterday had
been \v\'y denxe, niiuin eleiir<'d, nml diseovered open water alMiut half
a mile from the vessel with ihe ice loose alKiut her. At noon com-
nuMieed wiii'ping, ami at '.\ p.m. passed inlo it with a lighl hree/e from
the N.li., that carried us some di-tance along the eastern shore. At
J I p.m. the 1'oj.i was so th < k thai we were eonipelied to make fast to
a ll<M', having, while standing in shore, stirred up (he mud while in
stays, shooting from no Hounding-* ni 2<1 fat horns to n quirier li>s«( <),

THE NOUTH-WE8T PASSAGE.

which convinced me of the impracticability of remaining under way,
as, had we been set on the beach, the ice, whicli came in before a
freshening north-easter out of Barrow Saraits, would most effectually
have detained us there.

Previous to quitting the floe, I was desirous of trying what effect
blasting would have upon such a mass. A jar, containing 36lbs. of
powder, was let down twelve feet into the water near the centre, the
average thickness was eleven feet, and its diameter 400 yards. The
result was most satisfactory, rending it in every direction, so that with
the greatest case wo could effect a passage through any part of it.

15th — At 8 a.m. the fog cleared a little, which showed the base of
the cliffs very close, although we were in 42 fathoms. Having water
to the westward, wo instantly made sail in that quarter ; and at 1 1
a.m., being unable to see in any direction, again made fast, having
carried awny the spankerboom in breaking through a neck of ice,
which forc<'d the vessel from the wind, causing it to Jibi'. Our
soundings increased to 62 fathoms, and the ice was ascertained to be
setting bodily a mile and a half an hour to the W.S.W., so that upon
the weather clearing at 30 minutes a.m. of the 16th, we found the
vessel had been drifted fifteen miles to tlie S.W. As there was, how-
ever, water to the eastward, every exertion was made to reach it by
warping ; and at 3 a.m. auceeeded, working along the eastern shore to
ascertain what i)robability existed of being able to round the pack,
and thus get into Barrow Straits, from which wo were ijjt distant
more than 25 miles.

At 9 a.m. all hopes disappeared, as a clear view from the crow's-
nest discovered the ice to b(^ closely packed, resting upon Point Lady
Koss, extending in one inibroken line to the opposite side of tlie strait.
Tliis determined me to give up all idea of prosecuting our search in
this (lirection. Having been foiled in attempting this passnge the lat-
ti'r end of one season, and at the connnene<>ment of unotiuM', 1 consi-
dered it not praclieabh', except under tli<' favourable eirciunslances of
a continuance of south-westerly winds, which would Cu-hi' the ice into
Barrow Strait, but 1 imagine then would be little ilifrieulty in coming
from the N.F., from wlii(!h cpmrter we found the winds jirevail. Our
greatest advance in that direction was hit. 73" 13' 43" N., long. 115°
32'3()"W.

Arcordingly at 9.30 i>,m. WO boro up with the intention of running
to tli(> HoiiMiwitnl of Nelson Head, and c-jntinue our siarcli along the
we8t<>rn side of Baring Island, with the hope of rea(diing tlu^ entrance
of Barrow Slrait by that route; as, from the report of liieulenant
ClresHwell, I fell convinced (hat by IbniUs Land then* is a passage from
the I'olar Sea. At t p.m. passed the I'rincesH lloyul Islands with a
(in«« l)n>eze ; not a particle of ice to be seen in any direction, whicli
only a month pn'vious lia<l presented enormous Hoes, and heavy
grounded masses lying against lh(>ir base and upon the shoal connect-
ing them, which we considered had been then* for years, and likely tu
n>inain for nuiny more; even the huge pi(M'(<s which had been thrown

IIETLRN TO niE 801JTH-\VR8T.

upon the eastern shore had vanished ; so that every vestige of that
formidable element had i)a.s8ed away, which for nearly eleven months
had held us in its trammels.

On the 17th, while near Nelson Head, with a fine breeze from the
S.E., we experienced a heavy swell from that direction, causing the
vessel to pitch the hawse-holes under, and send the sea as far aft as
the fore hatchway. A circumstance so unusual was hailed as a fa-
vourable omen, being a convincing proof that we were in much open
water; and at 11.30 p.m. rounded the head. The land, for about 25
miles to the westward, is remarkably bold and lofty, where Cape
Lambton, jutting out and rising perpendicularly l,()0() feet, presents a
grand termination to it in that direction, whence it gradually recedes
to the N.W., where it loses this bold character, partaking more of that
remarked in the Prince of Wales Strait, being ranges of hills, gradu-
ally sloping from the interioi to the shores, having fini; valleys and
extensive plains, several small and one consid(!rable river, the water
from the latter discolouring the sea two miles from its mouth, likewise
many small lakes and harbours, which, however, would be only of
utility for boats, as a heavy surf was breaking across their entrances ;
much drift wood strewed the beach, and the land was well covered
with venhir", upon which were large flocks of geese feeding, while
ducks'.werc flying in great numbers, and I have litth; doubt that a walk
a sliort distance inland would have discovered herds of dcu'r and musk
oxen. Nothing that was on the coast could escajK' observation, or
couUl anything l)e more favourable for the object w(^ had in view, as,
with a fair wind and flue clear w<Mither, we ran along it, from one to
two miles distant.

At 4 i).ni. of the iHth, being ofl' a very low spit of land, (Point
Kellett,) which extended to the westward for about twel\ e miles in
the form of a horseshoe, having its sea side thickly studded with
grounded ice, while its interior was exempt from any, I sent Mr.
Court (second master) to (examine, who reported an excellent and com-
modious harbour, well sheltered from N.W. to south, varying five
fathoms within ten yards of the beach, which was shingle, and covered
with (Irii'i wood. A set of sights w(U'e obtained, and a cask, containing
a iK.tice, was left there; its position hit. 11° 56' N., long. 11}.')" 2i)' W.
From this the land turns abruptly N.b.E., and a great change takes
]Am'v in its general as|K'ct, gradually becoming low and flat, so that
near the beach it is scarcely discernibh'. resendtling neparate sand
banks, but, upon closing it, u low spit, bar(>ly above the level of the
water, was remarked eoinieetiiin them. The lead may be eonsitlered
an iiitallil)l(> guide along the whole of this coast, as the soundings are
regulai' from •! to <i() I'athuiMs, at from one to four miles oll'shore.!

On the morning of the h>th we left this low coast, and passed be*
tweeii two smalt is!an<ts lying at tlHwntr.vni;' of what appeareii a deep
inlet, nnniing K.S.E., and then turning sharp to the N.K. It had a
barrier of ice (xUMiling across, which prevented any examination.
Wishing to keep between the northernmost of these island^) and the

TH£ NORTU-WEST PASSAOR.

main land, to avoid the pack, which was very near it, wc narrowly
escaped getting on shore, as a reef extended from the latter to within
half a mile of the island. Fortunately, the wind being light, we
rounded to with all the studding sails set, and let go the anchor in 2^
fathoms, having about four inches to spare under the keel, and warped
into four, while Mr. Court was sent to find a channel, in which he
succeeded, carrying 3 fathoms, through which wc ran for one mile, and
then continued our course in eight, having from three to four miles
between the ice and land.

At 8 p.m. were near two other islands, the ice resting upon the
westernmost, upon which the pressure must have been excessive, as
large masses were forced nearly over its summit, which was upwards
of forty feet. Between these and the main we ran through a channel
in from 9 to 15 fathoms, when an immediate and marked change took
place in the general appearance and formation of the land ; it became
high, precipitous, sterile, and rugged, intersected with deep ravines
and water-courses, having 65 a quarter of a mile, and 15 fathoms one
hundred yards froni the cliiFs, which proved exceedingly fortunate, as
the whole pack, which had apparently only just broken from the shore,
was within half a mile, and in many places so close to it that, to avoid
getting bfic^., we had nearly to touch the land. Indeed, upon several
occasions the boats were compelled to be topped up, and poles used to
keep the vesst' from off the grounded ice, which extends all along the
coast ; nor could we round to, fearful of carrying the jibboom away
against its cliffs, which hero run nearly east and west. The cape
forming its western extreme I have called I'rince Alfred, in honour of
his royal iiighness.

There were two apparently good harbours about twenty miles to the
eastward of the Cape ; the westernmost had a breakwater half a mile
in length, twenty feet high, facing the north, with entrance on its cast
and west sides about sixty yards in breadth ; the other was circular,
about threi'Mjuarters of a mile in diameter, with its rntrance on the
west side. Our critical position would not admit of any detention,
otherwise they would have been sounded, being very anxious to find a
oecure retreat in tlie event of having to winter on this coast.

'llu^ weatluM", which had been line, with a S.K. wind, veered to the
W.S.VV., bringing fog and rain, no tluit on the morning of tiie 2()th
our further j)rogr('SH was impcd«'d by finding the ice n'sting upon a
point, wliicli formed a Hlijihl indentation of the .shore, and was lln' only
place when" water could be .seen. To prevent biMng carried away with
the pack, which was filling up its sjince, we He<Mn'«M| to the in-shoro
side of a small but heavy piece of ice, gnmnded in 12 fathoms, 74
yards iVoni the beach ; the oidy protection against the tremendous
I'ohir ice, (.setting a knot per hour to the eastward before a IVcsh west-
erly wind,) whicli at 9 p.m. placed lis in ii very critical position, by a
large Hoc striking the piee(> we were fast to, and eau.s(Ml it loosciilato
so coiisidcraliiy, that a tongue, whi<-h happent'd to be iind(>r our hotloui,
lifted (he vessel nir feet, but, by great attentioji to the anehors and

PASSING WKST OP UAItlNG ISLAND.

warps, we succeeded in liolding on during the conflict, which was con-
tinued several minutes, terminating by the floe being rent in pieces,
and our being driven nearer the beach. From this until the 29th
wo lay perfectly secure, but at 8 a.m. of that day the ice began sud-
denly to move, when a lai'ge floe, that must have caught the piece to
which we were attached under one of its overhanging ledges, rising it
perpendicular thirty feet, presented to all on board a most frightful
aspect. As it ascended above the foreyard much apprehension was
felt that it might be thrown completely over, when the ship must have
been crushed beneath it. This suspense was but for a few minutes,
as the floe rent, carrying away with it a large piece from the foun-
dation of our asylum, when it gave several fearful rolls and resumed
its formc'i position ; but, no longer capable of resisting the pressure, it
was hurried onward with the drifting mass. Our proximity to the
sliorc compelled, as our only hopes of safety, the absolute necessity of
holding to it ; we consequently secured with a chain stream and hemp
cable, three (J and two 5-inch hawsers, three of which were passed
round it. In this state we were forced along, sinking large pieces be-
neath the bottom, and sustaining a heavy strain against the stern and
rudder ; the latter was nmch damaged, but to unship it at present was
impossible.

At 1 p.m. the pressure eased, from the ice becoming stationary,
when it was unhung and laid upon a large floe piece, where, by 8 a.m.,
owing to the activity of Mr. Ford, the carpenter, who is always ready
to meet any emergency, it was repaired, just as the ice began again to
be in motion, but as the tackles were hooked, it was run up to the
davits without further damage. Wo were now setting fast upon
another largo piece of broken fl(K>, grounded in nine fathoms upon the
debris formed at the mouth of a large river. Feeling confident that
should wo be caught between this and what we were fast to the ship
must inevitably go to pieces, and yet being aware that to cast off would
certainly send us on the; beach, from wliich we were never distant
eighty yards, up(>:i whicli the smaller ice was hurried as it can)0 in
contact with these grounded masses, I sent John Kerr, (gunner's mate,)
under very difllcult circumstances, to endeavour to reach it, and effect
its destruction by blasting. He could not, however, find a suflicicnt space
of water to sink tiie charg(\ but remarking a larjje cnvity upon the sea
face of the fl(H>, he llxed it there, wliich so far 8U(!('>oded that it slightly
fractnr«'d it in three places, which at the moment was scarcely observ-
able from the heavy pn'ssure it was sustaining. By this time the
vessel was within a few feet of it ; every one was on deck in anxioi.s
suspense, awaiting what was apparently the crisis ot our fate ; most
fortuiuiti'ly Ihe stern post took it ho fairly that tlu^ pressure was fore
aFul aft, bringing the whole strength of tlie ship to bear. A heavy
grind which sliook every nuist, An<l eaustMl beams and viecks to complain
as she trrmbled ((■ the violence of the shock, plaiiil} indicateil that the
struggle wouhl be but of short dtn'ation. At this monu>Mt the stream
cable was carried nway, and several anchors drew. Thinking ihut wo

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

had now sufficiently risked the vessel, orders were given to let go all
the warps, and with that order I had made up my mind that in a few
minutes she would be on the beach, but, as it was sloping, conceived
she might still prove an asylum for the winter, and possibly be again
got afloat, while, should she be crushed between these large grounded
pieces, she must inevitably go down in ten fathoms, which would be
certain destruction to all : but befoi'e the orders could be obeyed, a
merciful Providence interposed, causing the ice, which had been pre-
viously weakened, to separate into three pieces, and it floated onward
with the mass, our stern tightly jammed against, but now protected by
it. The vessel, which had been thrown over fifteen degrees, and risen
bodily one foot eight inches, now righted, and settled in the water ; the
only damage sustained was several sheets of copper ripped off and
rolled up like a sheet of paper, but not a fastening had given way, nor
does any leakage indicate the slighest defect.

By midnight the ice was stationary and everything quiet, which
continued until the 10th of September ; indeed, from the temperature
having fallen to 16°, with all appearance of the setting in of the
winter, I considered our further progress was stopped until next year.
Tlie crew were employed collecting ballast (of whicli they obtained
fifty-five tons), and other arrangements making for such an event.
Shooting and other parties made daily excursions inland ; in which
rambles an exceedingly old Esquimaux encampment was met with,
and a most interesting discovery of a range of hills, composed of one
entire mass of wood in every stage froni a petrifaction to a log fit for
firewood. Many large trees were among it, but, in endeavouring to
exhume them, they were found too mucli decayed to stand ren>oval ;
the largest piece that we have been able to bring away being three
feet ten inches in girth, and seven in length ; these were found by
Messrs. Sainsbury and Piers, at an elevation of 300 feet above the
beach, (in lat. 74° 27' N., long. 122° 13' 15" W.,) which is strewed
with chips and small bits of wood, as are the water-courses and ra-
vines as far as any person has walked inland, evidently washed down
by the thaw from those ligneous hills. The country has fine vallies,
well covered witli verdure, and at some period of the year nnist be
frequented by large herds of animals, as the heads of musk oxen and
the well picked carcases of deer are everywhere met with, mnny (juito
fresh. Two large wolves were disturbed in the act of finishing a
fawn which tlu^y liad just killed, but only two musk oxen were seen,
besides a few hares and ptarmigan shot by our parties.

To day the temperature, from a change of wind to the southward,
rose to 2f)°, accompanied by rain, whicli hnd the effect of so loosening
the ice that the nmin pack Hcparatcnl from the ship, opening a lane of
water, about, sixteen miles to the eastward, varying in breadth from
.'SO to 200 yards, whicli, however did not promise any rcleaHc to the
vesHcl, until 11.50 a.m. (while the oiReer of the watch itnd (|uarter-
master were examining the tide pole fixed on tiie beach, through a
hole cut in the m\ about forty yards from the shore, which pu»/led

liLASTiHU THE 1(3 K.

thoni both, to find that they could not keep the guage erect, as it
slipped from their hands while endeavouring to do so) it noiselessly
opened, and drifted towards the pack, which it was impossible to avoid,
and were carried to the N.E. a knot per hour, at the distance of half
a mile from the shore, in soundings from 107 to 134 fathoms. All
methods by warps and saws to extricate the vessel from her perilous
position proving abortive, having masses of ice frozen to her bottom,
recourse was had to gunpowder, which fortunately effected her release
by the expenditure of 1501b., in charges of from 31b. to 201b., accord-
ing to the distance from the vessel. This by any other means could
not have been achieved, and saved us from being set against the thick
grounded ice, which was resting upon Point Colquhoun, (certain de-
struction,) into which we should have been hurried by five minutes'
longer detention, having barely time to make sail and shoot the vessel,
without rudder, clear of the piece we had been so long frozen to, into
the water, cutting the hawsers, which canted us, just as it entered the
solid mass, upon the weather edge of which wo twice grazed as wo
worked into the land ; when, at 7 p.m. of the 11th, wo again secured
to a large grounded floe, seventy yards from it, in 10 fathoms.

At 10 p.m. our position was hazarded by a portion of the main pack,
which had extended itself over the open water, coming in violent col-
lision witli the corner of our floe, turniiig it partially round ; while the
smaller ice pressed with so much strain upon the ship, that the anchors
began to draw, and hawsers carry away. The stream chain luckily
held until the pressure ceased, by the pack giving way, and our being
pushed a few fathoms nearer the shore.

At 2.50 a.m. of the 13th, a lane of water opened about sixty yards
from the vessel ; and towards noon a rise in the temperature of 45^,
with heavy rain, created hopes of liberation, an object of the highest
importance, not only with respect to the views with which the expedi-
tion was fitted out, but for tlio safety of the ship, at present in a most
oypoaed position, being on the eastern side of a largo bay, open to the
whole pressure of the Polar pack, and surrounded by masses of ice
sixteen to eighteen feet thick, while the grounded floes were from thirty
to sixty-seven feet in depth. To remove these impediments, or at all
events endeavour the formation of a dock, blasting was had recourse
to, with charges of from 161b. to 651b.: tlioso made little impression,
except near the explosion ; therefore, a 26 gallon rum cui*k, containing
2 55lbs of gunpowder, was now sunk five fathoms among tiioso largo
masses, at thirty yards from tlui vessel. Its ettect was most conclu-
sive, shivering them to atoms, rending that to which we were attached,
and which was sixty-seven feet thic'k on the outer base, and thirty-flve
on its inshore edge, asunder, without the concussion being very much
felt on board. All hands were employed in floating the loose ice into
the wat(!r, having vainly attempti-d to force the ship through, aided
by a strong wind, and a nine-inch hawser brought to the patent caps-
tan, (such resistance from merely this sludge is incredible,) which work
was continued until the afternoon of the 14th, when all was drifted

THE NOK'IU-WICST PASSAGE.

away, leaving a snug harbour, forty yards in width, flanked by heavy
grounded floes, forming an excellent protection. The rudder was now
hung, in anticipation of a start on the following morning ; but at 11
p.m. the wind freshened from W.N.W., bringing the whole pack down
upon this coast, filling our little harbour with loose and small ice, its
entrance being too narrow to admit the large pieces. An enormous
floe, however, carried away one of our flanks, but without disturbing
the vessel in the slightest.

At daylight on the morning of the I5th tlcse expectations were
sadly blighted, it blowing hard from W.N.W., with sleet and snow ;
nor was a drop of water to be observed in any direction, and the ice
apparently was again unhung, which, with the tlicrmometer at 14°,
scarcely afforded any probability of its being reshipped this season.
In the course of the forenoon Messrs. Court (second master) and
Newton (ice mate) were sent to cxsimine the coast and state of the ice
to the eastward of Point Colquhoun, distant about four miles. Their
report was such as to confinn the opinion previously entertained, with
this consolation, that the position which wo occupied was better than
any they had seen, as the ice to the eastward was much larger and
more massive than that we wore encompassed by. Tlie soil on this
coast is composed of gravel and limestone ; and in the valleys near the
beach the quantity and richness of the moss is quite surprising ; but
on reaching the first range of hills, about a mile distant, a more sterile
landscape never met the eye. The whole country appears nothing but
one mass of limestone, without the slightest vegetation ; the traces of
animals, so numerous flTteen miles further west, are no where in this
barren ground to be met. with.

On tlio 17th the westerly wind ceased, and was succeeded by one
from the eastward, with a rise of temperature from 11° to 21°, which,
by daylight of the 19th, had increased to 32°, with water extending
along the coast three nnlcs in widtli. We inmiediately east ofl^, and
at 7 a.m. rounded the point, whence the land falls back E.S.E. Our
progress was slow from many causes ; the copper being torn and pro-
jecting from four to twelve inches from the bottom, light winds, and
an ice-encumbered sea, so that at 3 p.m. our further advance was ar-
rested by the pack touching the land, and extending with unbroken
line to the northward as far as the eye could reach. Our day's work
did not exceed fifteen miles, when we were compelled to make fasi to
the land ice, which along the whole coast is of the most massive and
terrific dimensions I have ever witnessed. There was little selection
of berth on a coast lino nearly straight ; but a slight indentation, pro-
tected east and west by two largo jjieces of a broken floe thirty feet
above the water, gave hopes of some shelter ; when, at (i p.m., the
water and loose ice, which was b«?foro perfectly still, suddenly rushed
forward at the rate of two knots an hour, and, striking against the
vessel, forced her from her anchors with such violence that she was
driven astern upon a hard point of the floe, which rose her twelve
inches, but, fortunately, held until the rush was over, which swept our

CAPK CROZIER.

eastern bulwarks, but did no other damage. We then warped to the
western side of the floe, where a small space was blasted for the bow,
in which we quietly remained during the night.

At daylight of the 20th, finding the ice loose and drifting, though
a perfect calm, a mile and a half an hour to the eastward, cast oif and,
laying hold of a large floe piece, was dragged along close by the
grounded ice, which, with some difficulty, was avoided by shifting
round the floe as it canted towards us.

At noon, having a light air from the westward, made sail ; but soon
had reason to regret it, as it shortly failed and the ice filling the land
water it gradually forced the vessel into the pack, which hitherto we
have been so anxious and careful to avoid. As the only hope of navi-
gating this sea consists in keeping close to the shore, it now became
evident that every exertion must be made, by warping, to regain the
land, which, under the circumstances of the ice being in motion, with
rvMch that was small and loose filling up the intervals between the
larger pieces, which allowed a secure footing for the men, was difficult,
laborious, and anxious in the extreme, as, with every precaution, they
froquontly fell in. After seven hours* incessant work we succeded, as
the night closed, in reaching a huge and solid floe that had just been
upturned, three of its sides being twenty-five feet perpendicular,
grounded in 29 fathoms on the outer edge and having lOj upon the
inner one, around which was scattered much debris, part of its original
self that had crumbled from the pressure against a cliff", up which it
had been forced full seventy feet, and where a largo mass was still
remaining about a mile to the westward of a Cape (Austen) 400 feet
in I'eiglit, which is stratified, and of the same description as Nelson
Head, whore we secured for the night.

At daylight of the 21st, a thick fog, with hail, permitted a very
circumscribcnl view ; but, as the ice appeared loose in the direction of
the Cape, at 5 a.m. started, and grazing round it within fifteen yards
found ourselves in a large bay, entirely covered with ice, formed by
another cape three miles S.E., compelling us, at 6.30 a.m., to make fast
immediately beneath the cliff', whose summit nearly plumbing the
hatchways roiidered our position very unsafe, many fragments appearing
so loose from the action of frost and water that a slight concussion
woidd httve hrougiit them down. At 11 a.m. the ice eased a littlp
from the land, when w(^ again endeavoured to force towards the S.E.,
aided by a westerly wind and warping ; but in the afternoon the fog
became so dense, with an easterly breeze, that we made fast to the
land floe ; in which a small dock was formed, with the assistance of a
little powder, about a mile from our forenoon's position, remaining
until tlie morning of the 22nd, when a little progress was made towards
the S.E., our operations by warping being brought to a termination.

At I p.m., having reached the Cape (Crozier) upon the soutli-eastern
side of which the iw was resting, therefore, seciu'ing to a ridge twenty
feet in height, lying at its base, I proceeded with Mr. Court to its
summit for the purpose of examining the coast line. Towards tliQ

IMAGE EVALUATION
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33 WIIT MAIN ITMIT

WIIITIR.N.Y, )4SaO

(71«) •71-4S03

TBI NORm-WB8T PAfSAOK.

S.E., a deep bay, extending thirty milen in that direction, filled with
ice, which was commencing to move bodily to the westward and of a
much less formidable character to that we had been subjected to, while
what was lying along the shore was small and widely detached, well
repaid tho toil of ascent ; indeed, since rounded by Cape Austen, it
has lost much of its terrible aspect, which led to the inference that we
were fairly in Barrow Strait, and that the main polar pack takes a
direct line from the last mentioned Cape to the E.N.E., and that that
which fills these Bays and is carried down Barrow Strait is the com-
paratively small ice which drifts from its southern edge, as we have
invariably remarked that there is a decidedly easterly current, which
impels the enormous polar floes on that course, while the lighter, in-
fluenced by wind, is oftentimes setting in an opposite direction.

This Cape (Crozier) is 250 feet perpendicular, presenting among its
debris many interesting geological specimens ; it is composed of lime
and sandstone, having fossilliferous shells imbedded, also pieces of coal
and petrifactions of wood, identical with what has been met with upon
other parts of this large Island and upon the Princess Royal Isles.

At 3.30 a.m. of the 23rd, although not daylight, open water was
ascertained to be at hand from the dark appearance of the horizon to
seaward ; the vessel was cast off and, standing in that direction, found
we had not been deceived. The wind during the forenoon coming
from tho westward enabled our running close along the shore, on
which still rested a line of thin ice rendering the entrance of what
appeared three good harbours inaccessible. The land was much less
rugged, having small hills gradually sloping to the beach, and largo
valleys well calculated for the pasture lands of animals, but no par-
ticle of driftwood could be observed, which article has not been seen,
excepting tho small chips near the ligneous hills, since rounding Point
Kellott, on the western shore.

At 6.30 p.m. our course was nearly obstructed from the ice resting
upon a point about two miles distant : the studding sails wore taken
in but almost immediately resets as it gradually opened, allowing iust
HufHcient space for our passage by tipping up the lower booms. The
shore shortly trending more to the southward increased our water,
but snow and thick weather with night coming on rendered the land
(not 200 yards distant) barely discornible. Most anxious, however,
at the close of the season to embrace every opportunity of getting to
somo place of security our course was continued with easy canvaa
when, under other circumstances, wo should have most assuredly se-
ourcMl for tho night ; and at 7.30 p.m., with the lead going, wont, fVom
\5 fathoms, upon a mud bank, having only six feet under tho bow,
and at tho distance of ton feet from the stern only IH inches, whilo
the stern wan in ii fnthoms. The stream anchor and cable wore laid
out, which aervice was well performed by Messrs. Wynniatt, Sainsbury,
and Court, it requiring tour boats in consequonoe of the fW>shening
N.W. gale and pieces of loose ice with snow, which, caking as it
raached the water, formtd so thick a coating over its surface and ofler-

BAT Of MKROY.

ing tuch reiisianoe that it wm scarcely possible to poll through, which,
wiih clearing the forehold and warrant officer's storerooms, and bring-
ing all the weight abaft the misen*mast, at 10 p.m. we weve enabled
to heave off, and brought up with both bowers in 61 fathoms. The
remainder of the night was oooupied in restowing the holds, weighing
the stream anchor, frc, so that at daylight of the 24th we were in
perfect readiness to move.

On a view of our position we found that we were on the N.W. side
of a large bay, whose eastern limit bore N.E., eight miles, which we
subsequently found formed the western point of Banks Land, and
running to the S.S.W. about seven miles, which was rapidly filling up
with ice flowing in before a fresh gale from the Polar Sea.

Still wishing to see if any possibility remained of getting down
Barrow Strait, we weighed and stood as far as the ice would allow
to the N.E., when, observing from the crow's-nest no water in that
direction, I determined to make this our winter quartera, and having
remarked on the south side of the bank, on which we had grounded, a
well protected bay, Mr. Court was dispatched to sound it j and, shortly
making tlie signal that there was sufficient water, we bore up, and
at 7.45 a.m. we anchored in 4A fathoms, and that night were firmly
frosen in, in what has since proved a most safe and excellent harbour ;
which, in grateful remembrance of the many perils that wo had,
during the passage of that terrible Polar Sea, escaped, in reachiiiff,
we have named the "Bay of Mercy;" thus finally terminating this
short season's operations, being actually only five entire days under way.
Preparations were now made for housing in and everything was com-
pleted, except hauling over the cloth, by October 1st, which was not
done that the daylight should be et\)oycd as long as possible and a
saving in lights effected. On that day, as a precautionary measure,
the crew wore placed upon two-thirds allowance of all species of pro-
visions.

On the 4th Mr. Court was sent with a travelling party to connect
our position with that visited by Lieutenant Cresswell in May lasty
fVom which we were only distant eighteen miles. On the 7th he
returned, which service completed the search round the entire coast
line of this island. He reported open w ater a few miles fVom the shore,
which, gradually extending, reached the cliffs of Banks Land. Upon
the 6th, with two men he was examining a few miles to the south-
eastward of his tent, that dp -ached the heavy groundod land ice fVom
their base, drifting the whoh party off shore to the N.W., fortunately
boinff unencumbered with die slodge, they succeeded, with difficulty
and by much agility, juiaping from piece to piece, in n^gaining thu
shore, and that evening no ice could be remarked in the Strait, the
whole being set into the Polar sea.

On the lOth Mr. Sainsbury (mate), with a travelling party, went to
examine an inlet, which ap{)onrod to run some (listanco to the S.W.
fVom the south side of the bay, but, upon the following clay, returned,
finding it extended only twelve miles, the water shoaling, until it finally

THE WORTH-WK8T PAB8AOB.

( ;

terminated in a large mar(«h, which, from the numerous traces of ani-
mals and wild fowl, may be conridered as a favourite resort during the
summer. As there appeared much game in the vicinity, and the wea-
ther continuing mild, shooting parties, under Lieutenant Cresswell,
Messrs. Wynniatt^ Court, and Piers, and the Marines, under Sergeant
Woon, were established in different directions between the 9th and
28rd, so that, with what was killed from the ship, our supply of fresh
provisions on the commencement of the winter consisted of 9 deer, 63
hares, and 44 ptarmigan, all in fine condition, the former having from
two to three inches fat.

The weather during the winter has been much more boisterous, but
in ''ach month several degrees more mild than was experienced in the
Prince of Wales Strait, nearly a degree and a half further south, last
year, which, in conjunction with the animals remaining in numbers in
this locality the entire winter, must, I suppose, be taken as a proof of
its mildness, although lying exposed to the north-west winds, direct
from the Polar Sea, which, upon our first being frozen in, led to the
anticipation of having to encounter a severe season. In consequence
of our favoured position, the crew ' were enabled to ramble over the
hills almost daily in quest of game, and their exertions happily supplied
a fresh meal of venison three times a fortnight, with the exception of
about three weeks in January, when it was too dark for shooting.
The small game, such as ptarmigan and hares, being scarce, were
allowed to he retained by the sportsmen as private pronerty. This
healthy and exhilirating exercise kept us all well and in excellent
spirits during another tedious winter, so that on the 1st of April we
had upwards of 1,0()0II). of venison hanging at the yard-arms.

All wearing so fair an aspect, and being desirous of visiting Winter
Harbour, Melville Island, with the hope of meeting an ofHcer there
with whom arrangements might be made in the event of any accident
occurring wliich would render it necessary to quit the ship, I proceeded
on the 11th with Mr. Court (second master) and a sledge party for
that port, but in consequence of thick weather coming on a few hours
after leaving the vessel, and continuing unintermittingly for several
days, we did not reach until the 2Hth. On the 10th we observed a
very lofty Cape, bearing N.E.b.K. 80 miles, which I have called Quoon
Victoria, in honour of her most gracious Miyestv, (the same which
had betm remarked last autumn from the high land near the ship) ;
the land to the north-east forms the Imttom of Lyddon Gulf, while tliat
upon its w(>Htern side stnHched to the N.W. in cne unbroken mountain
line as far as (Ikm^o could reach.

At Winti^r Harbour we obtained a sot of sights for the purpose of
testing our chronometers, which were ascertained to Im? going exceed-
ingly well ; and, having deportit^Ml a notice of our visit under the snmo
cairn that Lieutenant M'Clintock lelY <me last year, upon a large frag-
metit of sandstone, bearing this inscription, vix. : " His Hritnnnic Ma-
jesty's ships A/rr/rt and (frippr. Commanders Parry and Lyddon, win-
U'ivA in ilie a(\iacent harbour during the winter of IH19-20, A. Fisher,

SERUKAMT WOON's 8UCCKS8

sculpsit," at 6 p.m. commenced our return, travelling upon flat ice
nearly the entire way, accomplishing in ten days what occupied eighteen
upon the outward trip, and reached the ship upon the 9th of May,
when I had the gratification of i-eceiving the most satisfactory reports
concerning our sanitary condition, and likewise that the supply of
venison continued abundant, having twenty head of deer on board. In
consequence the ration of venison was increased to one pound and a
half thrice a week, as the crew were at hard work, clearing the holds,
collecting and bringing off ballast ; the latter a very laboi'ioua occu-
pation, from the large space they had to search over in picking up a
sufliciency of stone to complete one hundred tons, which was not
accomplished until the 25th, after which we commenced watering,
obtaining it from a lake about a mile from the ship, by boring through
seven feet ten inches of ice, and cutting a reservoir to receive it ; this
forming a species of Artesian well, which gave a bountiful supply, en-
abling the watering to be completed by the 13th of June, previous to
the commencement of the thaw, which was a great advantage to the
crew, as it kept them dry footed.

About this time flocks of wild fowl, consisting of swans, geese, and
all descriptions of ducks, began to arrive, but finding no water, mei'ely
took a flight round the north-west extreme of the land, and returned
to the southward, from which it. would appear that the season is late.
Indeed, the land is as much covered with snow as in the depth of
winter, nor was it until the 25th of tbe month that any alteration took
place, when small streams commenced trickling down the sunny slopes
of the ravines, and little ponds formed upon the ice. On the 30th we
had an entire day of lieavy snow, with one of the most severe northerly
gales I ever witnessed at so advanced a period of the season; and upon
the 1st of July found that the ice had increased its thickness four
inches during the last month, being seven feet two inches, a most un-
usual circumstance, as both at Port Leopold and in the Prince of
Wales Strait we found a very considerable decrease. During the
month of June the temperature likewise was very low, showing an
average of 3U°.

The appearance of the crow at their monthly inspection elicited a
more imfavourable report from the surgeon than I have hitherto re-
ceived. Evident symptoms of debility among the generality of them,
and sixteen having a decided scorbutic tendency, plainly the eflliect of
the late heavy labour in ballastitig and watering ; but as all our work
is now on board, their gradual return to perfect health may be antici-
pated, without encumbering the sick list.

On the 8th of July Sergeant Woon, of the Marines, while in pursuit
of a wounded deiM-, uncx|Htctedlv met a couple of musk bulls, which he
BUcceedtMi in killing, evincing the most soldierlike coolness and intre-
pidity during the entire transaction. Having expended his ammu-
nition, as one of the wounded and infuriated monsters rushed towards
him, he fire<l his worm when at a few yards, but without much efl'ect,
as ho continued his advance, evidently, however, weak from loss of

THE NORTM'WBST PASSAGK^

blood, till he had reached within six feet, when putting hia head to th«
ground previous to his final rush, the Sergeant, as his last resource,
fired his iron ramrod, which entering behind the left shoulder, passed
through the heart and out at the right flank, dropping him dead at his
feet. They are fine animals, whose gross weight are l,3301bs., and
yield, after deducting offal and hunter's perquisites, 6d01bs. of excellent
beef, which providential supply is most opportune, as our reindeer were
expended last week.

Two Esquimaux huts upon a small islet in the centre of the bay,
and the site of an encampment on a peaked hill on the western shore
of the main land, are the only indications we have met with of that
extraordinary and hardy people having at some period long past inha-
bited this coast ; we have now discovered traces of them upon all sides
of this island. But where are they gone, for certainly there is not one
upon it at present, or why should they have quitted an island so
abounding throughout the entire year with game ; except, as the
Esquimaux interpreter observes, there may be a great paucity of seals,
without which luscious food they cannot exidt, and this may be tho
reason, us we have »een very few.

During tho month of July, the little thaw, which a temperature
falling to 31° every night and rising only to 39° and 42° in the
day could effect, has not been much, Jbut the water draining from the
land rotted the ice round tho entire bay and detached it from 100
to 300 yards from the shore, so that it has power to move, and only
requires open water in tlio ofiing to allow of its going out, which joyful
event we entertained hopes of realising, as upon tho lOtli of August
some lanes of water were observed to seaward, and along the cliffs of
Banks Land there was a clear space of six miles in width, extending
along them as far as the eye could reach from tho north-west hills at
an elevation of one thousand feet ; and on the 1 2th, tho wind, which
had been for some time from the northward, veered to the south, which
had tho effect uf separating the sea ice from that of the bay entirely
across the entrance ; but, shortly shifting to the north, it dosed again,
and never after moved.

On the 20th the temperature fell to 27°, when the entire bay was
completely frozen over, and un the 27lh to 19°, so that the whole
aspect was cheerless in the extreme, the young ice being two and
a half inchea thick, so that the whole bay may bo safely perambu-
lated ; indeed, the summer was fairly gone, for the uplands are all
snow-covered, the wild fowl all dopnrted, and the flowers, which gave
cheerful variety to this bleak land, are all withered. The very season
may be considered as one long sunless day, as since the latter part of
May that luminary has been scarcely viMJble, or his influence felt, upon
those ioy masses which block Barrow Strait entirely across ; nor do I
imagine that the Polar Sea has broken up this season, as not a drop of
water has been seen in that diraciion.

During Julv and tho early part of August, the crew were daily em-
ployed gathering sorrel, of which there was a great quantity, upon the

PKBPAHATI0N8 FOR »ECOND WIMTKlt.

hills ill thia vicinity, and eaten as a salad with vin^ar, or boiled,
when it resembled spinach, was found a most desirable anti-scorbutic,
and a great benefit to all, being exceedingly relished ; but that hardy
and miserable herbage could not withstand this rigorous summer be-
yond the 15th of the month.

For several days the ice had been perfectly stationary, and no water
visible in any direction, that along the cliffs of Banks Land being
frozen, so that I felt assured that the winter had fairly set in, and all
hopes of any release this year totally annihilated, the young ice being
five inches thick. Having previously determined what course I should
adopt under circumstances thus unfavourable, on the 8th of September
I announced my intention to the crew of sending half of them to
England next April, with all the officers not in charge of stores, viA
Baffin Bay (taking the beat from Cape Spencer) and the Mackenzie,
detaining the remainder with the hope of extricating the vessel during
the summer of 1853, or, failing that, to proceed with sledges, in 1854,
by Port Leopold, our provisions admitting of no other arrangement {
although we had already been twelve months upon two-thirds allow-
ance, it was necessary to make preparations for meeting eighteen
months more, a very severe deprivation and constitutional test, but one
which the service we are employed upon calls for. The vessel being
as sound as the day she entered the ice, it would therefore be discre-
ditable to desert the ship in 1853, when a favourable season would
run her through the straits, and admit of reaching England in safety,
where the successful achievement of the long-sought for and almost
hopeless discovery of the North West Passage would be received with
a satisfaction that will amply compensate for the sacrifices made and
hardships endured in this moat trying and tedious accomplishment.
This statement was well received, and its execution will, I hojK), be car
ried out without difficulty.

On the 17th the wind shifted to the S.S.E., and blew hard, which
a few days earlier might have been attended with favourable results ;
but now it had no eiroct. The ice being eight inches thick, was too
firm to be moved. The sails were consequently unbent, and prepara-
tions commenced for housing in.

24th. — This is the anniversary of our arrival. The contrast is
very remarkable. We entered the bay with temperature at 33", an«l
not a particle of ice in it : to-day, the thermometer stands at 2% with
ice which had never moved, and every indication of a Hcvero wititer.

On the 25th of October, closed the hatchways and hou8ed tlie vessel
over; it becoming damp and cold between decks, the vnpour funnels,
of which there are five, giving a sufficient ventilation, those over the
hatchways being never closed, carry off all impurities, ho wo enjoy a
clear wholesome atmosphere below. This has very much contributed
to the excellent prenervation of our health : and the 2Gtli being the
secun<l annivorHary of our discovery of this pai^suge, and the last tliat
wo sliould all he togethi^r, the oeuai^ion wax celebrated by a hmi.iII a<ldi-
tional allowance of provisions and an extra ghtss of grog, which had

THK NOBTU-WBST PA8SAOS.

the effect of putting all in high spirits, so that the evening was passed
most jovially in singing and dancing.

On November 8th completed the banking up and other outside work,
finally terminating our winter arrangements on the 18th, by covering
the upper deck with eighteen inches of snow.

The deer for the last few days have been coming from the south-
ward to their winter quarters among those ravines and sand hills ;
ninety have been met with at one time, and forty at another ; but so
very wild that few have been shot. Our two seasons' experience show
that these animals do not migrate to the south as is generally supposed,
but bear the extreme rigour of the climate, and exist upon the scanty
herbage, chiefly the dwarf willow, from off which they break the snow
with their feet, which tapping can be heard at a considerable distance
when the weather is calm, and frequently leads to their discovery.
The hares and ptarmigan have also descended from the high ground
to the sea ridges, so tliat a supply of game has been kept up during
the winter, which has enabled a fresh meal to be issued twice weekly,
and the usual Christmas festivities to pass oif witii the greatest cheer-
fulness. As it was to be our last, the crew were determined to make
it memorable, and their exertions were complett^ly successful. Each
mess was gaily illuniiuated and decorated with original paintings by
our lower-deck artists, exhibiting the ship in her perilous positions
during the transit of the Polar Sea, and divers other subjects : but the
grand feature of the day was the enormous plum-puddings, some
weighing 2Glbs., haunches of venison, hares roasted, and soup made of
the same, witli ptarmigan and sea pies. Sucli dainties, in such pro-
fusion, I should imagine never before graced a sliip's lower deck. Any
Sti'anger to have witnessed this scene could but faintly imagine that he
saw a crew which had passed upwards of two y(?ars in these dreary
i*egion8, and thrown entirely upon their own resources, enjoying such
excellent health, so joyful, so happy ; indeed such a Uiirthtul assem-
blage mider any eiicunistances would bo most gratilying to any oiHcer;
but in this lonely situation I could not but feel deeply impressed, as I
contemplated the gay and plenteous sight, with thu many and great
mercies which a kind and lK>neflcent Providence had extended to-
wards us.

March 1st, 1853. — The most dreary and dark time is now passed ;
and severe and trying it has been. The cold of the last two months
was excessive, January showing a mean of 44", being 17° below the
corresponding period last year ; and one day the temperatuix' fell to
65°, and for twenty-four hours aetuiilly averaged 62". 1 should have
doubted the correctness of the thermometer (as nt) former experience
shows so low a register) had it not been well tested the (wo preceding
winters, when it only fell to 52" ; but, independent of the glass, the
feelings gave unmistakeable evidence of the extreme keenness of the
weather, as for one entire week the temperature never rose above 40°,
the wind being about 8.8. W., from which quarter during both win-
ters we have invai^iably felt the greatest cold. I, therefore, inuigino

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURB.

passed

that in the interior the land must be very lofty, as, when the wind
veers to the north, which is directly off the Polar Sea, the glass rises,
showing the highest temperature when it is easterly. These low tem-
peratures have caused much moisture between decks, and, from not
being able to allow a sufficiency of firing to counteract the effect of this
damp atmosphere, it has been materially felt by the crew. The sick list
at one period consequently increased to nineteen ; five being cases of
scurvy, and the same of dropsy ; but now happily reduced to ten, and
the surgeon's report upon the scurvy of the crew to-day, as to their
general state and condition, is as favourable as I could under all cir-
cumstances have anticipated.

During the last month we have been employed gravelling a distance
of 800 yards towards the sea ice, with the hope of its weakening it, in
the event of our being able to move when the season for navigation
arrives.

On the 3rd told the men off that were to proceed to England next
month, via Mackenzie and Baffin Bay. They appeared extremely
well satisfied with the arrangement, as I explained to them my object
was to send home all who had suffered the most from the severity of
the climate, and to which another year might prove exceedingly trying,
as well as to retain the most effective men in the event of being de-
tained another winter.

On the 15th the travellers went upon full allowance of provisions,
which, T have little doubt, will, before they are required to start, get
them in good condition.

21 St. — The weather has been beautiful during the last week ; the
tempenitiiro, which, until the 16th, contiinied almost daily to fall
to — oG^ on the I7lh rose to — 27°, the following day to — 14°,
and on the 19th to +3°, which sudden and delightful change, after
the excessive cold of the last three months, is most prateful. The
invalids are rapidly improving, the majority tiiking a daily airing of
from two to three hours. The leinpcrature at noon tn-day, exposed
to the sun, rose to +'40", so that the extreme seven , -)f the winter
is over; in fact, to the present litne, April 5th, tlie ten- orafure daily
mounts, in th(> shade, above zero, wiiicih, aecording to past experience,
is exceedingly mild, and may be considered indicative of an early break
up of the ice. God grant such may be the ease,

On the 15th it is my intention to start the parties destinejj to make
their way to England, and from our good sanitary condition I leel but
little doubt all will safely arrive. A fali/jjue party, under the eouunand
of Mr. (Joiu't, s(>eond Master, will aceoinpany Lieutenant Maswell for
a few days, while .)ohu Calder, captain of the forecastle, a trust-
worthy and zealous p(?tty officer, will proceed with Lieutenant
Cresswell as Car as the Princess Royal Islands, and from the depot
there return with as many eases of potatoes and as nmeh elioeolate as
can bo brought on the sledge, which <'xtra sntiply will give an ao'ple
allowaiu'e of tluwe ex<'ellent artit-lcs in tiic event ol' licing detained
here «luri»ig the ensuing winter. To this period wo have n((t lost an

9ft

THB NORTH- WBST PASSAGE.

■

individual of our crew, either by accident or disease ; the officers par-
ticularly have enjoyed an immunity from sickness which is surprising,
with the exception of Mr. Saiqsbury, Mate, who, since the winter of
1850, has suffered with a pulmonary complaint that has entirely pre-
vented his participating in the arduous duties of the travelling parties
or in the more exciting but not less laborious occupation of hunting
over this rugged and severe country ; and Mr. Paine, clerk in charge,
who had been a great invalid from rheumatism until this last winter,
when he has made a most rapid and wonderful recovery, and, at pre-
sent, is in the enjoyment of more robust health than when he quitted
England. I can attribute our excellent salutary state to the causes
already alluded to in this narrative, in conjunction with the bountiful
supply of game which a merciful Providence has aided us with, and
has so materially added to our otherwise scanty ration, as well as the
excellence of all species of our provisions, which are certainly of the
best description I ever met with, more particularly the superior quality
of the lime juice, which, as an antiscorbutic, has proved most inesti-
mable, with the preserved meats supplied by Messrs. Gamble, which,
for weight, exemption from bone, and excellence, rank in the very
highest scale, and that invaluable vegetable the preserved potato
manufactured by Edwards.

Sir, I have nothing more to add to this narrative, except to state
that I forwarded a list of game killed, and a monthly abstract of
the meteorological journal, which has been registered every alternate
hour since leaving England by the respective officers of the watches,
and carefully arranged and tabulated by Mr. Court, second Master,
which complete tables, I hope, with other interesting observations, to
be enabled to carry safely home in the ship.

And, having particularised the officers in the various services they
have been employed upon, I cannot conclude without expressing the
extreme satisfaction that the crew have given me upon all occasions,
when, in the perilous passage of the Polar Sea, activity, energy, and
arduous duty was required, as well as during this long period of in-
activity, they have been characterised by cheerfulness, propriety, and
good conduct, which fully entitle them to the most favourable consi-
deration of their lordships.

Robert M'Glure, Commander.

Bay of Mercy, Baring Island, April 6th, 1858.
Lat. 74^6' 34" N., long. 118° 16' W.

; I

▲BBTRAOT OF METE0ROIX>OICA.L JOURNAL.

■*
4

TABhK shotDirig the mean

height of Barometer toith the
£.S, " Investigator** Jrom A

Temperature of

the Air on board H.I

ugustf 1860, to

March, 1853.

Barometer.

Temperature of Air. |

Mean

Foree of

Wind.

Year and
Month.

Masimumc Min

imum.

Mean.

Maii-
mum.

Mini-
mum.

Mean.

1850.

August . .

060 20

300

20761

+60

+27

+366

September .

•660

470

■800

+46

— 1

+20^ 2

3-6

October .

180

380

•861

+24

-28

+ 02

November .

270

160

•730

+ 7

—32

—10-2

December .

-560

480

•078

— 4

—40

— 234

1851.

January

570

400

•885

—15

—51

—826

February .

680

030

•058

—

—61

— 37-7

March . .

720

338

•046

— 5

—51

—28^8

April . .

610

410

30037

+38

—32

— 4-8

May. . .

600

560

•028

+47

— 5

—180

June . .

150

470

20 837

+68

+27

+361

8-6

July . .

030

450

•750

+52

+32

+37 6

August . .

400

3U0

•865

+52

+21

+37 6

2^8

September .

270

450

•876

+43

+ 1

+24 6

October. .

200

300

•877

+26

-22

+ 3-8

November .

750

630

30 007

+ 10

—40

—16-2

December .

•810

400

•046

+ 11

-44

—200

1852.

January .

•600

280

20 841

+ 8

—61

-27 8

February .

31000

070

•777

— 1

-47

—25 8

8 1

March . .

81000

410

80 082

+ 6

—62

-28-4

AprU . .
fay. . .

80-430

520

•164

+31

—38

— 14

•250

600

20 087

+37

—26

+ 102

2-6

June. . .

•100

480

•758

+fil

+ 11

+31 6

July . .

•000

370

•740

+52

+30

+367

August . .

•170

4U0

•816

+62

+ 10

+38 2

September.

•100

070

•786

+88

— 4

+201

October .

•800

440

■086

+ 16

—88

- 66

November .

•680

■460

•078

—48

—166

December .

•670 28

•070

■044

— 4

-48

-261

1863.

January .

• 120 20

•180

•748

—16

-66

-48 87

406

February .

•680

•400

80 068

—13

-67

-88-60

260

March . .

•720

•640

•048

+17

—68

— 26^ 4

280

THK MORTH-WXST PASSAGE

Vearfy Abstract.

1860.

1862.

Barometer.

Maximum

■ • 1

30-660

Maximum .

• t

31000

Minimum

• •

29- 160

Minimum

• •

28-970

Mean

• • 1

Air.

29-828

Mean

•

Air.

29-906

Maximum

• •

Maximum

t •

+62

Minimum

t •

Minimum

• «

—62

Mean

1861.
Barometer.

4-66

Mean

1868.
Barometer.

+0-05

Maximum

• •

30-760

Maximum

1 •

30-72

Minimum

'• •

29-030

Minimum

■ •

23-180

Mean

Ai^.

29-934

Mean

Air.

29-960

Maximum

• • 1

+62

Maximum

» •

+17

Minimum

• ■

—61-0

Minimum

• •

-66

Mean

• •

. +1-68

Mean

• «

—36-92

Robert M'Clure, Commander.

The foregoing closes the public dispatches of Captain M'Clure. We
now add the following private letters, without which the subject would
not only be incomplete but we are desirous of preserving the senti-
ments expressed in them as doing honour to the head and heart of the
writer.

The following letter from Commander M'Clure to his sister, Mrs.
Thomas E. Wripht, of Dublin, has been communicated to a Dublin
paper by Dr. Wilde :

H.M.S., Investigator, Bay of Mercy,
Polar Sea, April 10, 1853.
Communication by post from this region of the globe is rather un-
precedented, but nevertheless I hope it will arrive at its destination,
and be the means of allaying for the present any apprehension for our
safety. I sent a letter to you, with my dispatches, from Capo Bath-
urst, by the way of the Mackenzie River, in August, 1850. A skin-
clad chief of the tribe fishing at the cape was the emissary, and I hope
that he proved faithful to his trust. vSince that period I may say we
have been the inhabitants of a living tomb, for, with the exception of
a few natives we saw for about an hour upon Prince Albert Land, in
the summer of 1851, and from whom we obtained some interesting in-
formation, not a strange face have we seen. It is unnecessary to en-
ter very largely into our proceedings during this most aiixious, diffi-
cult, and most dangerous voyage, as most probably my dispatches to
the Admiralty will be published, by which you will learn everytliing,
and a most dry production you will find it. I shall therefore briefly
mention that we succeeded in the discovery of the long-sought for

MAY OF MERCY.

North West Passage, wbich has baffled maritime Europe during the
last 400 years, thereby adding another laurel to Old England's name
and glory, and a memorable event to our dear little Queen's reign.
We have circumnavigated a very large island, its northern extreme
being the cliffs of Banks Land, separated from the main land of Ame-
rica, (I think it is, and not an island,) which part I have called Prince
Albert Land, as we have connected it with Victoria and Wollaston
Land by the Prince of Wales Strait, through which, on the 26th of
October, 1850, was the important discovery of the passage established,
by the connecting of the waters of this strait with those of Barrow,
which was accomplished by a travelling party with a sledge, consisting
of six men, an officer, and myself, and bitter cold work it was at that
advanced period of the year, particularly as the ice we had to sleep
on was not sufficiently snow-covered to keep us dry, v/hich, during
the usual time of travclliug in these regions in the spring, is always
the case, of which we had now ample experience, and it is thon warm
and comfortable under the tent. Our expedition was short, and that
certainly was an advantage, only occupying ten days going ovei- 180
miles of ice. I nearly made a bad termination of the otherwise inter-
esting trip. The last day, I left the sledge for the purpose of getting
on board some time previous to the party, that a few comforts might
be prepared on their arrival ; we had about 15 miles to go. Shortly
after quitting them it came on a thick mist, but as long as it continued
daylight, and I could see my compass, I got on pretty well ; but at
five o'clock darkness set in, and I very soon lost my way, got entangled
amidst heavy ice, rough and uneven as a stonemason's yard, having
much snow, through wiiich I was tumbling and floundering at the risk
of breaking my legs, arms, or neck, so of necessity I was obliged to
stop, and being much exhausted, having had nothing since a scanty
seven o'clock breakfast, I made myself a comfortable snow bed under
the lee of a large piece of ice, burying my feet up to the knees to keep
my toes frou» being frostbitten, soon fell into a doze, and about mid-
night was aroused by a bright meteor flashing across the heavens, so
got up and found a flne starlight night with a brilliant aurora, and,
starting in the direction of the ship, was in hopes of getting on board.
However, having expended all my ammunition, I could not attract the
attention of those in the vessel, and so, to make a long story short, I
wandered about until daylight, when I had the extreme satisfaction of
finding I had passed her about four miles. In proceeding to her I
came upon several fresli footsteps of bears, but arrived safe at half-
past eight, none the worse, although the thermometer was 15° below
zero, having been twonty-ftve hours without anything to eat. For
this and many other mercies which have been signally extended to ua
all during this most perilous voyage our heartfelt thanksgivings and
praises are due to that beneficent Providence, whose protecting finger
alone could have directed our path in a sea through whose ice-encum-
bered surface the power and ingenuity of man could not have advanced
the ship one yard. Surely one moment's reflection when contemplating

T1I£ NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

these mighty works of nature, brings conviction to the mind, that the
same arm that sustained the first ark of Gopherwood as it floated
over the waters of an engulphed world, has guided this our ark of
British oak ; and that its Inmates will return in safety to enjoy the
blessings of their native land, which nvill be another miracle of Divine
mercy. I often say with Menochs' wife, " If God had intended to
kill us he would not have shown us so many mercies."

In 1850, not being able .o find a harbour, we wintered in the pack,
a very dangerous thing, as we found in the Terror, but received no
damage. In April, 1851, several travelling parties were dispatched
in different directions, but no tidings whatever of poor Franklin ; and
learning upon the return of one which went towards WoUaston Land,
that a party of natives had been seen, but from only being able to
communicate by signs, no information was obtained, I started with tlio
interpreter, who is a Moravian brother belonging to the Labrador
mission, and, being only seventy miles off, we soon found them, and a
most intelligent and interesting tribe they were ; but they were very
much frightened at us. When at some distance they made signs fur
us not to approach, shouting frequently, " Oh ! wo are very much
afraid." These people never quit this desolate land, and are the far-
thest north. They mentioned that along the coast there are many
Esquimaux, and that those furthest south trade with the people which
inhabit a large land opposite, of course the north shore of America.
Now, is it not shameful that the Hudson Pay Company know nothing
of this people, and that their charter should remain a dead letter, for
their title to it mainly rests upon their exertions to civilize the heathen ;
but it appears very evident that provided they obtain " peltries," littlr
is thought of the rest. Surely such should not be tolerated. Intel-
ligent missionaries from Greenland or Labrador of their own coun-
trymen would very soon bring those kind and simple people — for those
upon this land, being uncontaminated by intercourse with civilized
man, are in their primitive condition — would soon lead them to em-
brace the truths of the Gusi>el, for v/hich they are certainly half pre-
pared. I hope our coming this way may be the means of conipelling
the Hudson Bay Company to pay some attention to the necessity of
Christianizing these simple |)Cople.

The ice broke up in iluly, but finding wo could not get into Barrow
Strait, from strong N.E. winds setting fresh in upon us, I d(^terinined
in August to try the passage through the Polar Sea and cauu^ into
the above Strait to the west of Melville Island, in which transit wo
had to contend with many dangers ; but arrived here safe on the 24th
September, by running upon a nuid bank during a thick snow storm,
whore wo luive since remained — not, however, on top of the hank.

On the west sidc^ of this island, about 5(X) feet above the level of
the sea, and a little inland, we discovered a range of hills, composed
uf trees in all states — from a petrifiielion to a chip that would burn,
and a largo bivalve, as large as an oyster, but of the description of a
cockle, the most itorl'ect fossil. I take this as a further proof, if any

HAY OF MKUCr.

more are required, of the universal deluge ; for surely such timber or
such shell-fish do not belong to those regions, our largest timber at
pi'esent being the dwarf willow, whoso stem is about the size of a
tobacco pipe, upon which the deer feed. These animals are in great
abundance, we having killed nearly 120. This providential supply of
excellent fresh meat has kept us in perfect health, having also many
hares and ptarmigan, with wildfowl, during the summer.

In April, 1852, I went to Melville Island, about 150 miles, in hoi)es
of meeting some ship from Captain Austin's expedition, and was sorely
disappointed, as I had calculated upon it, or else on finding stores. The
only notice met with was a few lines left upon a large block of sand-
stone at Winter Harbour by my friend M'Clintock, of 3, Gardiner's
Place, Dublin. It is curious tliat two Irishmen, one coming round the
world by the east, and the other by tlie west, should leave a notice
upon the same stone.

The summer of 1852, being only a mollified continuance of winter,
the ice has not broken up, so we remain firmly fixe<l. It is therefore
necessary this year (o send !ialf the crew home — some by the whalers
in Baffin Bay and others by the Mackenzie river, to meet the contin-
gency of another yeai''s residence in this land of desolation, as other-
wise our provisions wouhl run out. I hope this measure, which I
have adopted solely upon my own resj)onsibility to endeavour saving
the ship, as well perhaps as a little [>ardonablc vanity in wishing to
bring her as a troj»hy to England, will be approved of by the Admi-
ralty. If wo do not get out this year it will bo then our fate to ([uit
her next April, when I shall go tlirect to Port Leopold, where there
are good supplies and a boat capable of carrying us to tlu* whalers or
the Danish settlements, should a man-of-war be not sent for us. In
the event of the latter, my friend M'Clintock will most probably Ijo
selected to c(mnnand her, by whom you may send out a few lines.

The health of the c.ww has generally Ikhmi most excellent, altliough
this has been a trying winter to all, the thermometer falling to 05"
below zero, a temperature never before known, and very unlike our
two preceding years, when 52° was the lowest. However, we have
had oidy five cases of sciu'vy of any con8e((neiice, and now all are ra-
pidly recovering, so that when the travellers leave I expect to have
only on<* cam upon the sick list. Nor have we hwt a single man either
by <li«eas<« or accident — a degree of health and exemption from acci-
dents 1 shoulil say unequalled by any society consisting of the sanio
numbers in any part of the world. Why these dessings shotild bo
bestowe(l upon one so unw»)rthy and so undeserving iis the writei' of
this, often causes much reflection, and I can only feel tliiit " He will
have nierev upon whom he will iiave nierey;" and, nioreovei", endea-
vour, feebly indeed, to put in practice the words of tlu^ wise king,
'* Trust in liie Lord with all thine heart, and k-an not unto thine own
understiinding. In nil thy wavs acknowledge him, and lie shall direct
thy path." * » ' • ♦ • •

You can observe by the address of this thiit it was written bel'or<' I
ha*l any idea of receiving any connniniieation lro:n Kngland, or, indeed,

THE NORTH-WKST PASSAGE.

if ever I should revisit my native land. Now a wonderful and over-
ruling Providence has directed a party detached from the ship of our
countryman, Captain Kellett, to this Bay (Mercy). The officer, Lieu-
tenant Fim, appeared amongst us as an apparition ; having advanced
some distance before his sledge, he came close to the ship unnoticed,
being taken for one of our own people. When the mistake was dis-
covered I cannot even faintly convey to you the sensation experienced
by my crew — from despondency they were at once raised to the very
height of exultation and delight. We now, God be praised, consider
ourselves saved. The next day, April 7th, I proceeded across the
Straits to visit our preserver, and the reception given me, I need not
tell your warm heart, has amply compensated for our deprivations and
miseries. I still continue on board the Resolute^ and .ihall not return
for another week to Mercy Bay. * * * *

Your ever affectionate brother.

RoBEHT M'Clure.

The following letter from Commander M'Clure, of II. M.S. Investi-
fj/ator, written from Captain Kellett's wintering place at Melville Is-
land, eastward of Winter Harbour, the celebrated place of Parry's
flrst wintering in the Arctic Regions, has been published in a Wex-
ford pnper. Commander M'Clure is a Wexford Man, and the letter
is addressed to his uncle, the Rev. R. W. KIgee :

H.M.S. lieaolulc, Dealy Island, Barrow Straits,
April, 1853.
Mv dear Uncle, — Your kind nnd most unexpected letter renohed
me throufjjh a travelHiig party dispatched by my excellent friend Cap-
tain Kellett at a ixwition on the opposite nide of these Straits, where
we had been frozen in since 185 1. The surprise caused by the np-
jwarance of slrii'geis, where none went imngined to be within a coui)lo
of thousand miles, was more than 1 can describe, and what can only
faintly ho imngined by any wlio have not been similarly Hituat«'tl, par-
tieularly when il was ascertained that two vessels and large Hup|)lies
were so close at hand. The spirits of my crew seemed to revive, and
from deHi)ondency to joy was but tlu- work of a moment — the sick
forgot their maladies, and, jumping from their hammocks, were car-
ried in the stream of human creatures up the solitary hatchway which
the severity of tlie weather allowed of being kept open, rushed on deck
to be assured that tlie strauge a))parition was actually living flesh and
blood, and not di'ui/ens of the nether world — for ecrtaltdy tlieir laces
were black as Krelms, from eo«)king in their tents. When all was
discovered to l»e real, mid not a «lreani, ruy poor fellowH, ('(Hially with
myself, could not find ^vords to express our thoughts; the heart was
too full — il was a call from the grave. Never, 1 trust, may the feel-
ings of gratitudt^ to the Almighty Disposer of events which then
swelled in n>y bosom pass away. Many aud great hav<' been the nier-
eies we hav(« experienced in our long, tedious, and lerribl(> uaNigation
of that fearful I'olar Sea, which has for four himdred y(>ars jiallled

■f

TEIE NORTH-WEST PAS»AUb.

tlio navies of maritirao Europe, and through which the directing Anger
ahjne of Providence has safely guided us. All human agency was
powerless, indeed, to advance us one yard in its accoinplislnncnt amidst
the stupendous barriers of ice which never leave its frozen surface.

You will, I am certain, be very happy to learn that the North
W(»st Passage has been discovered by the Investigator, which event
was decided on the 26th of October, 1850, by a sledge party over the
ice, from the position which the ship was frozen in ; but as in all pro-
bability my dispatch will bo published, I do not think it necessary to
trouble you with further details: sufficient to say, we have been most
highly favoured, both as respects the health of all, having oidy lost
one man, who accidentally poisoned himself about a fortnight since, as
well as in being able to extend our search in (juest of Sir John Frank-
lin over a very largo extent of coast, which was not hitherto known,
and found inhabited by a numerous tribe of Esquimaux, who had
never oiv our arrival seen the face of the white man, and were really
the most simple, interesting people I ever met, living entirely by the
ehiisp, anil imving no weapons except those used for tlmt object. The
fiercer passions of our nature appeared unknown ; they gave mo a
lilcasing idea of man fresh from his Maker's Imnd, and uncontiiminatcd
by intcicoursc with oin* boasted civilization. All those who traded
with the Company we found the greatest reprobates.

On th(^ 7tli (»f this month I left the Investitfittor^ and arrived on
board here on the 19th, and was received by Captain Kellet with such
a welcome as none but a generous Irish heart could give ; imleed, the
kindness wo have received from all amply repays the toil, difficulties,
dangers, and privations which for three years we have endured. If
the country and Admiralty only view our services with but a small
porli(ni of the interest which those avo have met evince, there will bo
litthi left to complain of. » # # #

lOvery exertion is now being made to follow up the traces of poor
Sir ,]. Franklin, and if nothing is met with by the numerous parties
that are now traversing the sliores of this inhospitable and inclement
country, nought will ever be heard to throw a light upon his mysteri-
ous fate, and seartOk will have arrived at its utmost limits. I know
notliing of the Enterprise, and can only regret her leaving us.

The foregoing lelt^M's, which do honoiu' to their author, c<melude,
for the present, <iur digressions on thi^ subjtvM. of Arctic! Proceedings.
We sav for the [Mcsent, as it will natiwally be resumed in the ap-
proac^hnig season, ail hopes having now ceased of any further arrival
this year from Sir Kdward Helcher.

It has Imhmi well observed that we have arrived at an epcK'h In
Arctic Diseovcry, as tintt of the discovery of the exist<«nee of a N.W.
passage to t lie l*ii('ili(^ Ocean most asstu'eiliy forms one. Unt it has
not been made witliout a heavy sacrillee of life, shuidd no further
tra(H<H be found of Franklin's party, lint it is a n inarUablo fea-
tine re^tpccting Franklin's party that not only no other vestiges of

100

THE NORTH- WK8T PASSAGE.

them have been found than those of Beechoy Island, but that, also,
one single bottle paper only has found its way to us of the numbers
which wo may have considered him to have thrown overboard. Cer-
tainly, the ice would form another impediment to the many others
which peril the safety of these brittle messengers. The bottles found
in the Sea of Cara, S.E. of Nova Zembla, which have created so much
curiosity of late, as possibly having been sent adrift by Franklin, turn
out to have no connection with him whatever. They have been re-
cognised by persons competently informed on the subject to be the
same as those made at Hammerfest, near the North Capo, and used by
Norwej ian fishermen for the purpose of floating their nets. This
conclusion terminated all speculation as to their origin, and leaves tho
subject of Franklin's safety as blank as before.

We have also to thank Mr. Barrow for tho following account of a
letter from an officer of tho Resolute to his mother.

I hasten to give you the first account of letter, which ar-
rived this morning, bearing the last date April 3rd. He was to start
next day on an expedition of seventy days, with Lieutenant Mccham,
to the west. lie writes in the highest spirits, and says it is a " glorious
place" and will not believe that Franklin can be dead if he had fallen
on a Melville Island, as he considers the miseries are only for those
who make them so. He had been out for twenty-five days in the
autumn in his sledge, Perseverance, with tho motto, " Dum spiro
spero." Ho had acted in a play, wearing a low dress, with the ther-
mometer at zero ! He says that if any ship remained ho would try
aitd do so, as he liked the station so much. Captain Kellett had given
him the meteorological journal to keep, which gave him plenty to do,
so that he did not find the tuna long.

With reference to the petrifactions on Baring Island, mentioned bv
Cai)tain M'Clure in page 80, the following extract from *' Wrangell s
Siberia," showing that the same was found on the Island of New
Siberia by the Itussian ulHcers, will, no doubt, interest the geologist.

or these llcdenslrom observes, in unollier plucv, " On tlio soulliorn coast of
New Siberia iiro found the rtmnrkubltf Wood Hills. They uo thirty falhoma
high, and eonHist ot'liorizoiiliil strain of sandKtono, Diternat ng with Mratn of
bituminous bcnms or trunks of trees. On ascendink( these hilU, fosNiliicd char-
coal is ovorywhero mot with, covered iip|)arently with iihIium, but on closer
examination, this nsh is nUo found to be it petrifaction, and so hard that it
can scarcely 1)0 . scraped off with u knife, (hi the summit another curiosity is

found, namely, a long row ofJiuamN, re!i(Mn1>ling the former, but fixed perpen-

ularly in tlit"
uru for the ((r«utcr purl broken. 'J'he wltolu has tlie appearance of a ruinous

dioularly in tlie nandslone. The ends, which project from seven to ten inches,

dyke." Lieutenant Anjon, who likewiwo examined these wood hdls, stiys,
" They are merely a stecn (leclivity, twenty I'alhoms high, exteudiiiK about five
wersts alon^ the coast. In thi<« hank, which is exnosud to tho seu, beams or
trunks of tree<< arc found, uvnerally in a horizontal ponition, but with great
irregularity, Aflym' more uf them together, the laii{es( hcioLt about ten inches in
diivmelor. The wuud is not very hard, is hiaMe, has a lilack lulour, and u

iui

\ S*'"!

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

101

slight gloss. When laid on the fire, it does not burn with a flame, but glim-
mers, and emits a resinous odour."

The volcanic appearances on Cape Bathurst were also observed by
Sir John Richardson, in 1848.

Arctic Voyagers.

Lat. N.

Franklin, let land ex- Approximate ° '

pedition 1819-21 Fort Enterprise, N. America 64 20

Parry, Hecla & Onper 1819-20 Winter Harb., Melville Is. . 74 46

■n Tf A XT 1 1 any no < Winter Isle, Lvon Inlet .66 20

Parry, Fury and Hccla 1821-23 \ j , ,j^ j^'^ j^^,^;,,^ p^„ gg g^.

Parry, Hecla and Fury 1824-26 Pt. Bowen., Pr. Regent In. . 73 20

Franklin, 2nd land ex-
pedition 1826-27 Ft. Franklin, Gt. Dear Lake 65 20

John Ross, Victory . . 1829-33 Felix Harb., Gulf of Boothia 70

Back, land expedition . 1833-36 Ft. Reliance, Gt. Slave Lake 62 30

Back, Terror .... 1836-37 Cape Comfort, Fox Channel 65 15

Dease & Simpson, boat
expedition .... 1836-38 Ft. Confidence, Gt. Bear L. 67

John Rae, boat expe-
dition 1846-47 Repulse Bay 66 35

Franklin, Erebus and
Terror 1845-46 Beechey Is., Erebus Bay. .74 50

Ime^tiaalor . . . 1848^9 ( ^I'p:",S,l!^"^h?a'' 74
Richardson, boat expe-
dition 1848-49 Fort Confidence 67

r Port Providence, Tohouski

«««<,. Plover . . 1948.62 J ch^JS«,i;i.id; ! ! i""**

V Port Clarence

Hooper, boat expedition 1849-50 Ft. Franklin, Gt. Bear Lake 65 20
Pullcn, boat expdition 1849-51 Ft. Simpson, M'Kenzie River
Saunders, North Star . 1849-50 Wolstenholme Sound . . . 77 40
Oollinson, Enterprite . 1850-58 Behrin^ Strait?

M-Clure. I«,^i,a,cr . 18««3 \ »*™&» *""' !"■•. ]\ 'S

"^ Queens Chan, and Pr. of
Wales Land discovered,
and, with Lancaster Sd.
to Banks St., Jones Sd.
and part of Baffin B.
searched 74 80

Austin, Resolute, Ah-

mtance, Intrepidf &

Pioneer 1850-51

John Ross, Felix . . 1850-51
Penny, /Wy Franklin

and Sophia .... 1850-51
DoHavcn, Advance and

HeiHJue 1850-51 Lancaster Sd., drifting in the

pack down Baffin Bay . .
Kennedy, (Bellot,) Pr.

Alhtrt 1851-52 Bollot Strait discovered and,

with Peel Sd., scnrchud . 72
McGuire, Plover . . 1852-58 Moore Hiirb., Point Barrow. 71 *iO
Belcher, Amsfance and f

Pionetr 1852-53 J In projjress, Albert Land,

Kellctt, liesolnte and ( N. Cornwall, and Parry

Intrepid 1852-63 Mands

Pullen, A'orM .SVflr. .1852-53 I 74 50

Long. W.

o t

112

110

83 20

82
88 30

123 10
92 45

109
88

119

86 50

90 50

90
119
170 7

128 10

115
118 10

95.30

95
156

90 50

;102

THK NORTH-WSST PASSAGE.

At a public demonstration which has taken place at Lynn to wel-
come the return of Lieutenant Cresswell, Sir Edward Parry expressed
himself thus on the subject of Franklin

In reply to the toast of his health, Sir Edward Parry said — " While
we are rejoicing over the return of our friend, and the probable return
of all his shipmates, we cannot but turn to that which is not a matter
of rejoicing, but rather a matter of sorrow and regret, that there has
not been found a single token of our long-lost friends. Sir John Frank-
lin and his companions. Not only has this been the case with the ex-
pedition in which our young friend has been engaged, but also with
Sir Edward Belcher, who has gone up Wellington Inlet, where I
certainly thought traces of him would be found, because at Beechcy
Island we know he passed the first winter. There we found three
graves of his men. That is, up to the present moment, the only token
we have received of him. I think it is a most mysterious thing. I
have thought about it as much as anybody, and I can form only one
idea as to the probable fate of Sir John Franklin. I don't agree with
Mr. Cresswell about the probability of both ships having gone down,
though nothing has been seen of them. Though it is true that nothing
might be seen of the ships, I don't think that the seamen would have
all gone. I think that there is that stuff and stamina in 120 English-
men that, somehow or other, they would have maintained themselves
as well as the Esquimaux. They would have found the Esquimaux,
and we should have found at least some trace of them. The only
thing which I can suggest is this — Wellington Strait was discovered
by myself. It is a largo opening out of Lancaster Sound. When I
was going up westward, from Melville Island, we saw the Strait free
from ice, and so I marked it in my charts. It was not my business to
go north as long as I could go west, and, therefore, we ran past and
did not examine it, but it was always a favourite idea of those who
thought a North- West Passage was to be easily made by going north.
That, I know, waE ^ favourite idea of Franklin's, and ho did intmd,
if he could not go west, to go up the Wellington Channel. My belief
is, that, after he paHsed the first winter, ho did go up that channel,
and that having steam-power, which I had not in my time, it is possi-
ble he may have gone up in a favourable season. You cannot imagine
anything more dilfbront than a favourable and unfavourable season,
and you cannot imagine the sudden olianges that take place in the ice
there. I have been for two or throe days together beset by ice, and
from the niast-head vou could not see water enougit to float a bottle,
and in twenty-four nours there was not a bit of ice to be seen. No-
body could tell wliy. I cannot toll why. In ii favourable season ho
may have gone up tluit Inlet, and he might, by steam-power and fa-
vourable circumstances, have got so far to the north-west that he could
not get back in any ordinary Hoason. And those wlio knew Franklin
know that he wouhl push forward year after year, bo long as his pro-
visions lasted } for he was not a man to look back if he believed tliAt

TFIE LATK I.tKHTKNANT BRIXOT,

i(W

he couW accomplish his object. He may have got beyond the reach
of our searching parties, for Sir Edward Belcher has not been able to
get far up. Gentlemen, while speaking of Sir John Franklin, every-
body will feel sorrow for his probable fate. My dear friend Franklin
was sixty years old when he left this country, and I shall never for-
get the zeal, the almost youthful enthusiasm, with which that man
entered upon his expedition. Lord Haddington, who was then First
Lord of the Admiralty, sent for me, and said, * I see by the Nary List
that Franklin is sixty years old — do you think we ought to let him
go ?' I said, * He is a fitter man to go than many I know, and if you
don't let him go he will die of disappointment.' He did go, and ho
has been gone for years, and. therefore, I will leave it to yourselves to
consider what is the probability of the life of that valuable man. In
the ^vhole course of my experience I have never known a man like
Franklin. I don't say this of him on the principle de mortuis nil nisi
hotium, for he really was a man of remarkable capacity, \\\i\\ all the
tenderness of heart of a simple child, and the magnanimity of a hero.
It is recorded of him that he would not kill a mosquito, but whether
or not, that is a true typo of the tenderness of that man's heart."

TllK LaTK LlKLTENANT BhLLOT.

The reader will perhn|H consider it not out of place to conclude thcfo
interesting Arctic dispat(!hes with a notice of the j)ro('('cding8 that have
taken place in London to mark the feeling of respect entertained for
the memory of M. Bellot, by preserving some substantial indication of
that liigh esteem which he liad won, not only from his companionH in
the arctic ships, but also I'nim all who had known him in this country,
and IVtiiu whom that feeling had become so general. With this object
a meeting was held on the 4th of November, at which Sir U. Miir-
chison, the I'resideiit of tli(< Geograpliical Society, was ('hairman,
supported by llie First J^oi'd of the Admiralty, Sir »Iames Graham,
Sir I'M ward Parry, and many distinguished persons, by whom the
room was crowiled. Sii' U(»(h*rick Murehison opened the procei «ling»
witli a sketch of the public life t>f M. Bellot, taking a generid view of
the ciicuiiistiinces under which he had joined in tlu; search for Sir
John Franklin and his thorough (h^voti«)n to the cause which he liad
adopted, inid read some gratifying testimonials of (he esteem wliicli
liis noble conduct had gained him from liord Clarendon, Lord tlolin
Hussel, tind the whole Hoard of Admiralty, and stating that, notwith-
standing several places in France, and particularly Calais, liiid desired
to become \\w site ot the testimoniid which our country nu'U proposed
to e.sliiblisli, it had been considered by the C'ommittee that the ru>igh-
bourliood of (ireenwich should be the mopt titling place, ami, a<('(trd-
ingly, it woidd be place<l (here. Sir flames (iruliam, in moving (ho
lirsi res(»hitioii, then snid ; —

104

THE NORTH-WEST PA8SAGK.

Sir Roderick Murchison, ladies, and gentlemen, I gladly obey the
call of the chair, and I rise for the purpose of moving the first resolu-
tion. You have heard in touching, though in a foreign, language, the
sentiments of the French minister with regard to the distinguished
officer to whom we are about to offer a testimonial. I, in our native
language of simplicity and purity, shall endeavour to lay before you
what are, I am convinced, the sentiments of that gallant profession
with which for a short time I am officially connected ; and, if I mis-
take not, the resolution I am about to move, embodies tlie feelings,
not only of this assembly, but also of the nation of which it is so small
a portion. It will not be necessary for me, after the interesting and
elaborate details which the chairman has presented to the meeting, to
go into any long description of the great scientific exploits of the dis-
tinguished Bellot. The chairman has told you, and has told yuu truly,
that this is no ordinary occasion. I agree with Lord Ellesmere in the
opinion which he has expressed, that our meeting to-day is convened
in the spirit of national Ixjnevolcnce and peace, and I have therefore
peculiar pleasure in appearing before }ou. (Cheers.) It was a re-
markable circumstance in the life of Lieutenant Bellot that his ser-
vices in the early part of his career in the navy of his own country
were constantly associated with the gallant services of the British
navy. (Hear, hear.) You have heard how he conducted himself in
Rio do la Plata ; you have heard how in that great and noble service,
the suppression of the slave trade on the eastern coast of Africa, in
the Straits of Madagascar, he greatly distinguished himself. But
there was also a period to wliich my friend in the chair shortly ad-
verted, and which is memorable in the life of Lieutenant Bellot. He
served in the Pacific at a moment when a passing cloud of national
difference somewhat overhung the relations between England and
France, and it is remarkable that at that very moment, when perhaps
something of jealousy or angry feeling might have pervaded the sailors
of those two great maritime powers. Lieutenant Bellot was distin-
guished in the British navy, and by the officers with whom he was
then associated, by the distinctive applanation of " L'Ami des Anglais."
(Cheers.) Now, happily, all such differences are at an end ; that
cloud has passed away ; it is no distinction to a French officer to hn
called " the friend of the English," for France herself is the friend of
England. (Loud cheers.) I may bo pcrmitled to tell you that for the
bust four months, during which, in the interests of peace, and with an
earnest desire to preserve the tranciuillity of the world, the fleets of
France and England have been lying side by side, from the admiral
on tho dock to the lowest cabin boy below, not one single instance has
arisen of any quarrel partaking of a national character. (Cheers.)
Friendship and cordiality have marked both services : ni\d I regard
this as a happy omen of (hat peace which wo sincerely desire, of that
peace whicii is tho perennial source of tho prosperity of nations (\nd
tho great mainspring of the pi'ogressivo improvement and happiness of
mankind. (Cheers.) Now, gentlemen, the next trait in tho life of Lieut.
Bellot has been alluded to by our chairman, his distinguished and disin-

tBt

;::kt

THE LATE LIEUTENANT BELLOT.

105

lly obey the
i first resolu-
anguage, the
listinguishod
1 our native
before j'ou
profession
tl, if I mis-
lie feelings,
it is so small
iesting and
meeting, to
of the dis-
1 you truly,
mere in the
is convened
»'e therefore
i was a rc-
at his ser-
wn country
the British
himself in
ble service,
Africa, in
self. But
shortly ad-
lellot. Ho
:)f national
gland and
en perhaps
the sailors
vas distin-
)m ho was
Anglais."
end; that
leer to l)o
I friend of
uit for the
\ with an
» fleets of
i(« admiral
tanc(f lias
(Cheers.)
I regard
t^, of that
tions nnd
(piness of
of Lieut,
ind diHin-

terested services in aid of the noble efforts of Lady Franklin, made in
the earnest hope that by her own personal endeavours, from her own
humble means, some trace might, of the existence, the prolonged
existence, of her late lamented husband. It was the glory of Lieute-
nant Bellot to assist Lieutenant Kenedy gratuitously in those services
of which his own daring and skill were the mainsprings ; and I am
well informed that at the close of the expedition, when those with
whom he had associated parted from him, among the gallant English
sailors — who had served with him — there was a unanimous feeling
that if Lieutenant Bellot should be appointed the commander of any
such expedition, they would most cheerfully volunteer to serve under
him. Now, I have alluded to the transient circumstance of my official
position, which makes it, perhaps, not inopportune that I should ap-
pear here to-day. But 1 am about to narrate to you a circumstance
which made it peculiarly a duty on my part to conx; and bear testi-
mony to the meritorious conduct of Lieutenant liellot. When last
year it was determined to send a small expedition under the command
of that distinguished ofTicor — no longer Commander, but Captain In-
glcfield — (cheers) — to the Arctic seas, the steamer selected was not a
large one. The volunteers who crowded to serve under Lieutenant
Inglefield were numerous — both officers and men, the complement was
at once filled up, and there was a difficulty with respect to any spara
acconmiodation. Lieutenant Bellot pressed to be admitted as a volun-
teer. On that occasion his application was made to me, in the first in-
stance by himself. I resisted it. I was afraid that considering the
crowded state of the ship and his rank in the French navy, accommo-
dation such as the Admiralty would wish to afford could not be given,
and that inconvenience and discontent would probably be generated in
the ship. Lieutenant Bellot pressed his application notwithstanding
my refusal in the first instance. He even sought to bring to bear upon
mo olficial influence. Others seek favours in the shape of official ap-
pointments, but the favour that he sought was only that he nnght bo
allowed again to enter a British ship, and join his British comrades in
encountering dangers. With no reward in view, nothing but honest
fame being his ob.ject, Ik5 actually persuaded the French ambassador to
re(|uest, almost as a national favour that he might be [)ermitted to go.
(Clieers.) 1 could not resist such an application. (Cheers.) I laid
the case before Captain Inglefield ; and that officer said, " By all
means let iiim come as a comrade ; we shall rejoice in his society."
Lieutenant Bellot said, " Give mo but. a plank to lie upon, a corner
wherein to put my clothes; I ask no more." The Officers sud, "Let
us have him us an associate." And I believe I nuiy say that Captain
Inglefield abridged somewhat liis accommodation, and that the other
Officers all abridged theirs, and that, except Captain Inglefield him-
self, Lieut. Helhit iiad the Iwst acconnnodation in the ship. (Cheers.)
Well, now, what was his conduct under such ciicumstances ? What
are the real characteristics of a distinguished mival officer ? I should
sum them up in assiduity in the discharge of his duties, {rallantry in
the hour of danger, and obedience to conanaml. Now, what does

106

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Captain Inglefield report under each of these heads ? With respect
to assiduity, Lieutenant BcUot was an example to all on board the
Phoenix. Late and early he was employed in scientific pursuits. The
dip of the needle occupied his attention by day, and in that almost
rayless region, where what is night with us would almost be accounted
day, solar observations were pursued by him unremittingly. With
respect to gallantry, thei'e never was an occasior on which danger was
to be braved or difficulty to bo confronted when he was not a volun-
teer. His life was lost in a service of danger for which he was a vo-
lunteer — (hear, hear) — and before I sit down I shall have strictly to
narrate to you the circumstances which closed his honourable career.
Well, now, I will give you a specimen of his obedience to command.
He was under no direct control, because he was a volunteer and a
visitor, but such was the nicety of his feelings that Captain Inglefield
assures me there was no officer more ready to anticipate his wishes
than Lieutenant Bellot. (Hear, hear.) Perhaps what I am about to
mention may appear a irifling circumstance, but trifles illustrate cha-
racter. (Hear, hear.) You are aware tliat in that northern region
the dog of the Esquimaux is the companion of the native in his dan-
ger. It is an animal of peculiar sagacity, and remarkable for the as-
sistance it affords in those dangerous parts. Naturally those on board
with their eyes frequently turned towards home, wish to bring back
some living trophy of these regions, and there is generally a great de-
sire felt to bring Iiome animals of this description. Different officers
had obtained dogs, I believe to the number of eight, for that purpose,
and Captain Inglefield was forced to prohibit any more being brought
on board. It transpired that Lieutenant Bellot, recollecting also his
native land, and wishing to tako home some little trophy of his ser-
vices, was desirous of having a dog of this description. When Capt.
Inglefield heard that such was his desire, ho called Lieutenant Bellot
into his cabin and told him that any prohibition with respect to the
increase of the number would not apply to him, and begged him to
consider himself exempt from its operation. Such, however, was
Lieutenant Bellot's nicety of feeling that, though his wish had been
strong in the matter, he obeyed the order to the letter, and no animal
was brought on board by that officer. (Cheers.) Well, now, it is my
duty, I think, shortly to describe to you the concluding scene of his
life. Captain Inglefield had left the ship himself determined to brave
the greatest danger, endeavouring to open a communication with Sir
E. Belcher by a journey over the ice in fact. He had left the ship to
Captain PuUen. Captain Pullon, in his absence, was anxious to make
a communication to Captain Inglefield. It was a dangerous expedi-
tion ; Captain Inglefield's briglit example was not easy to follow in
that trackless region. Lieutenant liellot volunteered for that service.
His offer was accepted ; and ho left the ship with four British sailors,
a sledge, and a slight India-rubber canoe. Very shortly after his
leaving the ship arose that fearful storm of the IBth of August, which
destroyed the Breadalbatie, which was in company with the PhiBnix.
The ice closing in upon her in a gale of wind, such as had hardly ever been

knoi

mer

that{

whil

one!

fouJ

thai

mec

froi

hir

a la

THE LATE LIEUTENANT BELLOT.

107

li respect
oard the
ts. The
it almost
ccounted
With
figer was
a volun-
tas a vo-
irictly to
3 career,
•mmand.

and a
nglefield
9 wishes
a^bout to
ite cha-

region
lis dan-
the as-
n board
ig back
reat de-
officers
►urpose,
brought
Uso his
lis ser-
n Capt.
) Bellot
to the
him to
r, was
rl been
animal
b is ray
of his
brave
th Sir
hip to
make
tpcdi-
aw in
rvice.
iilors,
)r his
vhich

been

known in those arctic regions, the Breadalh'ane was crushed in a mo-
ment. The Phvenix was in the greatest danger. The strong deck of
that ship bulged under ; her main timbers were strained to an extent
which endangered her very existence. In that fatal storm in which
one ship was lost and another all but lost, Lieutenant Bellot and his
four followers had to encounter the frightful gale. The first efiects of
that gale was to sever the ice from the beach. Lieutenant Bellot im-
mediately when he saw that the Hoe on which he then was, was drifting
from the shore, hastened to send two of the four men who were with
him in the small canoe to the main land. They succeeded in effecting
a landing ; but to return became impossible. The floe drifted rapidly
away, and the danger of these two men and of the gallant French
officer became imminent and apparent. Observe, he was not the first
himself to go in the canoe to dry land. (Hear, hear.) He saw the
full extent of the danger. When the storm which was raging had
almost destroyed himself with the two remaining Englishmen, he ex-
pressed the joy which he felt that the two other men were saved, and
that he was with tlie two sailors who were still exposed to danger.
Snow was descending in large quantities. He taught them how to
shelter themselves on the floe, by accumulating the snow into some-
thing in the shape of a hut. They remained liutted. He twice went
forth to see in which direction the floe was l>eiiig driftctl. A third
time ho went forth, and he returned no more. J should tell you, ladies
and gentlemen, that his exhortations to IIr'sc two men have been nar-
rated to British officers and British seamen. He reminded them of
their duty, that duty conmion to Frenchmen and Englislimen, in the
extremity of distress, not to be disheartened ; and, above all, he ex-
horted them to look to that quarter from Avhieh alone in the last ex-
tremity assistance can be expected. (Hear, hear.) Ho begged them
to remember that overruling Providence which had saved them in the
midst of so many and sucli groat dangers. It was the will of that
Providence that he should not survive ; it was tlie mercy of that Pro-
vidence that the two men who were his companions should, in the
course of eight and foity hours, be drifted back almost to the very
place where they had left tlieir companions, and they have survived to
tell the story. Now, ladies and gentlemen, an appeal indeed has been
made to your generosity on this occasion. But it is not the first ap-
peal. Ca[)taiu InglelieUl, when he paid off the P/uenix the other day,
mentione<l to iiis gallant companions that some such op|)ortunity as
this would be given, and said he thought something was due from the
companions of Lieutenant Bellot. What was the conduct of these
men — who, after a voyage of six months, had some trifling balance due
to them after remittances to their wives and children, atul when it had
been doubtful whether they woiUd live to come home again ? Why,
they rushed forward, and it became the duty of Captain Inglclleld to
restrain their engerncss to contribute out of tlicir humble earnings
more than he thovight proper. (Cheers.) Silver — gold — was tendereil.
He said, " No, it is but a small tribute of respect that I ask of you,
I will not tako much." It is out of your abundance, ladies and gen-

108

THE NORTH- WB8T PASSAGE.

tlemen, that I ask you to contribute. (Cheers.) Well, I said that I
would not long detain you ; but will you permit me to express to you
one feeling more ? I am addressing a Christian assembly ; and I have
told you what was Lieut^^nant Bellot's feeling, what his exhortation, at
the moment of extreme danger. His noble spirit in its aspirations
lifted him up at once from earth to heaven. It is a question now
whether we should erect some frail memorial to his memory. You
may write it in marble, you may inscribe it in brass, but it will pass
away. But there is that wliich survives monuments — honourable
fame, duty faithfully performed, the glorious remembrance of gallant
deeds. (Cheers.) It is a saying of antiquity, and has been truly
said, that the whole earth is the tomb of illustrious men. It matters
not whether their bones whiten the shores of the Equator, or whether
they are entombed under the eternal ice of the Arctic regions. But I
would say to this Christian audience, let us also, while there is time,
follow the advice of Lieutenant Bellot. (Hear, hear.) Let us elevate
our hearts, let us raise our thoughts above this grovelling sphere of
sorrow and disappointment; let us look to those regions where we hope
Lieutenant Bellot is now at rest, and where, as one of our old divines
has said, with impressive truth, " Eternity is the measure, felicity is
the state, angels are the company, and God the portion of the blest."
The resolution which I have to move is as follows : " That this meet-
ing, composed of various classes of Englishmen, being anxious to mark
their deep sense of the noble conduct of Lieutenant Bellot, of the
French Imperial Navy, who was, unhappily, lost in the last Arctic expe-
dition in search of Sir John Franklin, resolve, that their countrymen
be invited to unite with them in promoting a general subscription for
the purpose of erecting a monument to the memory of that gallant
officer, to be placed at an appropriate spot at or near the Royal Hos-
pital at Greenwich." In moving this resolution I beg leave to state
that I entirely approve of the general terms in which it is left to the
discretion of the committee to decide upon the precise locality in which
this monument shall be placed ; but I think at or near to Greenwich
would bo the fittest place, because it was there that when Lieutenant
Bellot embarked on board the P/icenix, his friends, both French and
English, bade him their last adieu.

The Right Honourable Baronet resumed his seat amid loud cheers.

Admiral Sir E. Parry seconded the resolution. He said, if the reso-
lution required any argunuMit to recommend it to a meeting assembled
for such a purpose, it liad been amply furnished by tlie eloquent and
feeling address to which it liad just been their privilege to listen —
(cheers) — and he felt conlident that that address, coming, as it evi-
dently did, warm from the Riglit lion. Baronet's heart — (hear, hear,
and clieers,) — had already met with a cordial response from every
British heart in liat room, and would meet witii a corresponding
response throughout tiie length and breadth of the land. (Cheers.)
Such sontinieiits, proceeding from the First Lord of tiie Admiralty,
had already gone far to acctmiplish the object for which they were as-
sembled. (Hear, hear.) Ho (Sir E. Parry) nuist express his thanks

THK LATE LIEUTENANT BELLOT.

109

that I
IS to you
d I have
ation, at
"rations
ion now
r- You
vill pass
lourable
gallant
n truly
matters
vhether
But I
is time,
elevate

here of

i^e hope

divines
city is
blest."

! raeet-

} mark

of the
cxpe-

lymen

ion for

gallant
Hos-

> state

to the

vhieh

nvieh

enant

1 and

ers.
reso-
iblcd
and
■n — .
evi-
car,
'fry
ling
rs.)
Ity.
as-
iks

to the Committee for suggesting the propriety of his taking part in
the proceedings of that day. There were circumstances in his past
life which gave a peculiar interest to the ocosision. It was now thirty-
four years since he was permitted, in the providence of God, to pene-
trate through the ice fr(»m Lancaster Hound to about 114° of west
longitude, near to what was considered the western extremity of Mel-
ville Island, Cape Dundas ; and although it wan not strictly relevant
to the matter before them, yet he must be permitted to say, that as
one of the oldest of the navigators in that portion of the Tolar Seas,
it was with intense interest that he latx^ly received intelligence that the
last link in the chain of enterprise to which many of the best years of
his life were devoted, had at length been completed by the boldness,
the skill, and the energy of his countrymen. (Cheers.) It was a
very remarkable and interesting circumstance that two ships, the Hecla,
under his command, and the Investi-gator, under the command of that
gallant officer Captain M'Clure, should have reached two points where,
had the periods been the same, they would have been in sight of each
other, having come from opposite directions within sixty miles of each
other. (Hear, hear.) It was also a very interesting fact that the
description which Captain M'Clure gave of the ice by which he was
arrested in Mercy Bay, corresponded precisely with his (Sir E.
Parry's) description of the ice by which he was arrested off Cape
Providence thirty years l)efore. (Hear, hear.) The names " Mercy"
and " Providence" might, he thought, be regarded as a record and
acknowledgement that under such circumstances British seamen should
look upwards for that help in which alone they could put their trust.
(Cheers.) He did not despair of the Investigator being released.
All that was required for her escape was a narrow lane of water, and
it should be recollected that the ice often broke up very suddenly.
The death of Lieutenant Bellot was a loss not only to France, not only
to the French Navy, of which he was a true ornament, not only to his
family and friends ; it was a loss to England, which owed him a deep
debt of gratitude, a loss to the world, whose citizen in the highest and
best sense of the word he assuredly was. (Cheers.) As an illustra-
tion of the kindness of Lieutenant Bellot's disposition, his delicacy of
feeling, he would just mention that he held in his hand a turnscrew
made out of one of the boats of the Furyy which he had the misfor-
tune to lose in the Arctic regions ; this instrument having been brought
home for him by the deceased. (Hear, hear.) In conclusion, he begged
to say that he heartily concurred in the sentiments expressed in the
resolution.

In such sentiments as the foregoing and so well expressed every one
must concur ; — but one more word on the Arctic voyages. —

The time is now gone by when we might (ixpect more accounts
from Sir Edward Belcher this year, and we must patiently await the
approaching sunmicr for his further discoveries. Those, with Captain
KelU'tt's, to the north of Melville Island, may be considered conclu-
sive as far as ariy vestiges of Franklin are concerned. If none aro

110

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAQIS.

discovered there, what probability is there of their being found else-
where; Wg hear of an expedition being proposed (nay, even an-
nounced as decided, a circumstance which we cannot but doubt,) to
proceed to the Pole from Spitsbergen ! We should have thought that
the experience of Parry in 1827 would have been a sufficient warning
against such a project. To make an attempt in direct opposition to a
failure from physical causes always in operation, in fact, a current from
the Polar Sea through the principal channel to the south, if not the
only one, excepting that out of Baffin Bay (for what outlet have the
waters of the Polar Sea except into the Atlantic?), to attempt to
stem this current, and the ice that it brings, in spite of former failures
(and for what?) would, indeed, betray a hardihood beyond belief.
But to reach the Pole perhaps is the object, for it could not bo to seek
for Franklin 1 If this is ever to be done, Spitsbergen should not be
the s'tarting post. Behring Strait might be or any point in its neigh-
bourhood of Arctic America or Asia, for the current then might bo
made favourable. We have heard nothing of Collinson since he passed
Behring Strait in 1851. He, indeed, if not on the shore of Arctic
America might be so far to the northward as to profit by the easterly
set of the waters of the Polar Sea and to be far more likely to reach
the Pole, if he desired it, than any ship from the Atlantic. But we
have no such anticipations as these, either concerning Collinson or
another expedition from this country beyond one to coramunicato with
Sir Edward lielcher next summer. With respect to reaching the
Pole, perhaps DeHaven, who, we believe is gone up Smith Sound,
will tell us more on this subject when we next hear of him.

Captain M'CIure expresses his regrv t in one of his letters (page
99) at the Enterprise (Collinson) having left him. It is indeed to
be regretted that the very object of two ships to keep company and
assist each other in the ice has been defeated. But it is no less a
source of regret that the Investigator did not wait for the Enterprise
from the Sandwich Islands before passing through Behring Strait t

Retoanls offered in the ** London Gazette" relating to the Discovery

of Sir John Franklin.

Admiralty, March 7th.
Twenty Thousand Pounds Reward will be given by her M»y(fHly's
Government to any party or parties, of any country, who shall render
efficient asrtistance (o th(! crews of the discovery sliips under the com-
mand of Sir John Franklin : —

1. To any party or parties who, in the judgment of the Hoard of
AdmirHltv, shall (liscover and ('Hectualiy relievo the crows of her Ma-
jesty's sliipM l\rebns and Terror, (he sum «)f iJ20,(MH); or,

2. To any party or parties who, in the judgment of the Board of
A<hnimlty, shall discover and eflin'tually relieve uny of the crews (tf

EDWARDS* PRESKRVED I'OTATO.

Ill

ind else-
even an-
ubt,) to
ght that
warning
tion to a
eint from
not the
mve the
empt to
failures
beh'ef.
to seek
not be

3 neigh-

ight bo

? passed
A re tic

easterly

o reach

But wo

ison or

to with

ng the

Sound,

(pago
leod to
tiy and

less a
^rprise
it I

her Majesty's ships Erebus and Terror, or shall convey such intelli-
gence as shiill lead to the relief of such crews, or any of them, the
Slim of £10,00() ; or,

3. To any party or parties who, in the judgment of the Board of
Admiralty, shall, by virtue of his or their efforts, first succeed^ in as-
certaining their fate, £10,000.

W. A. B. Hamilton, Secretary of the Admiralty.

over If

th.

'Ntv's
nJcr
Join-

il of
Ma-

1 of
« of

t.ONDON ! WAI/liCU HflEHN, PKINTKIi, OUEAT I'UKMOOT BTRUKl.

Tliel
nex«f
8ho\
Mil]

\4.

tioni

M to>"1

1 ^*^^

imnl

inb

well

EDWARDS* PEESERVED POTATO,

BY ROYAL LETTERS PATENT,

I This Eoonomioal and Pure Vegetable Diet keeps good in all Climates,
and is rm invaluable Anti-scorbutic with Salt Provisions.

Tlie Patonteei of the Preserved Potato solicit particular attention to the an-
nexed Proficssors' Certificates, Oovermmrnt Spectal Rbpohts, &c.,
showing the important advantages of the Potato in a preserved state for Ship or
Military Storet, for general domestic use, or for exportation to climates and situa-
tions wliere thbt most desirable and nutritious Vegetable (the Potato) is not ob-
tainable, or only of an inferior growth or deteriorated state. Edwards' Patent
Presbrvrd Votato pogsesaei the inestimable property of keeping, unimpaired
by time o** climate, ^and its cooking is effected in about ten minutes,) proving an
immense advantage over Potatoes in their natural state; which, on being stowed
in bulk , incipient vegetation almost immediately ensues ; causing a rapid Iohs in
weight, and quickly rendering this valuable root positively unwholesome and
unnt for food.

This Paesbrved Potato is prepared from the finest Potatoes, and contaiuH
all the flavour and wholesome properties of the vegetable when in its best state ;
this is authenticated by the Certificates of Professors Hrande, Danicll, Dr. Paris,
ice. ; more particularly by the following chemical Analysis of Dr. Ure, Professor
of Chemistry, &o.

" / hereby certify that Messrs. Edwards' Patent Preserved Potato contains hy Chemi-
cal Aanlysis the whole nutritious principle of that root in a pure concentrated state,
that it contains

QO parts in the hundred at least of starch ; nearly
80 of a soluble fibrine of demulcent antiscorbutic quality
& of a veyetable albumine of the nature somewhat of the white ofcyy, and
6 of a lubricating gum.
The fibrine and albumine render it more light of digestion, and the gum more demul-
cent to the stomach than wheat fiour, with which, also, it may bo regarded as nearly
squally nutriciois, and more so than peas, beans, sago, or atrow-root,

Amdrkw Vna, M.n., p.r.r.

The valu(- of Edwards' Patent Preserved Potato is proved in its adoption on tho
various scales of Viotimlling in the lloyal Navy, Transport Sc^rvicies, &c. by
li.M. Land and Emigration (Commissioners, at (Greenwich IIoHpituI, the Hon.
East India Company, and the Mercantile Marine generally.

The great economy of Edwurdn* Patent Potato a« a general Hliip'n storo
(as well as comfort ami essential to the health of the men ), is estahlished
hjf the scale of victualliny for Troops, SfC. The et/itiiutlent of \lh, of the
cooked vegetable being supplied three times a week, for 20 weeks, at a cost
of about \is.for each man.

Confining the merits of the Patent Preserved Potato merely to eheapness, no
article of stores is less in price; and when its untiseorhutie and other viilinible
pro))ertieK are consideivd, the advantages attending its uce will be foiind to surpass
every other deseripti.Mi of provisions, I'lnh-r tho eonvietion of an exteii'-ive mi-
neral demand, the Patentees ofi'er the Preserved Pofiitn to the pnhlie ut a itrii .)
(delivered in London I'oii oahii) tha' makes the vegetable, when eodked, uselieiip
OS Potatoes in the ordinary f>tttte.

This Patent Preserved Potato is cooked and ready for use in TEN MI-
NUTES by tho incrn addition of BOILING WATER In n b;uin or other
vessel, produces a dish of oxcullent Mashod Potatoia loady lor tabid, n"

iiiIkimI Willi iIk' 1I(|Uoi' In wlileli tile nu'iit is boiled, It ninkeN uii roi'.lltiit eluMiii aii.l
n<llHliinK Nou]).

I'on MtKiNn * VAUiAiii.i- 1. 10(11' I'l i»itiM» >\iiiiner mil r mi kiik,
T(» \lh. I'rinrvril I'otnlii iiilii 1^ lUiit* a/ HiiiiaNff Watm... IiI It tiniuf for Itl tiilhutft, l*#rt
mill Mh. Ill rinin- ami ii Itrt/i tta-tiioon/iil iif Salt, mUlitu Ihi wlwh iiuhkli/ lugrlhrr, lis In it
riolH, anil boil JOr Ii Itowi.

[N.U. Foil CASH on delivery.] . .

D. Jt 11. KDWAllDH U Co., Sol, Vuiimim,

Professors' Ckrtifioatks.
From Professor Brande, F.R.S., Royal Institution.

I have examined Messrs. Edwards and Company's Patent Preserved Potato,
and am of opinion tliat it is a convenient and unexceptionable article, and consists
only of the pure \ei!titahle, without any foreign ndniixture or colouring matter;
th.it with common precaution it may he kept for any length of time, without
liahility to decay or change; and that its comparative nutritive powers are to those
of the fresh Potato as about four to one ; one pound of I'reserved Potato being the
equivalent of about four pounds of the best fresh Potatoes.

William Thomas Brande.

From Dr. Ure, F.R.S., Professor of Ohemistry.

Messrs. Edwards' process for concentrating the nutritious powers of Potatoes,
and preserving their qualities unimpaired for any length of time, and in any cli-
mate, is, in my opirion, the best hiilierto devised for that purpose, and, chemically
considered, the best possible.

I find that one pound of their Patent Potato, when cooked with about lliree
pounds cf water, affords a dish equal to a mash of fiesh mealy Potatoes.
Edwards' Patent Potato will be found an invaluable preparation, not only in
sea voyages (ind tropical countries, but at home in the after part of the season,
because it continues uniformlywholesome and iigreeiiblo, whereas by this time our
Potatoes have become unsound from frost, growth, Stc. It also possesses all the
antiscorbutic properties of the fresh Polatc

Andrew Uuk, m.u.

From Professor Daniel, F.R.S., King's College.

Gentlemen, — I have carefully examined the several specimens of your Patent
Preserved Potato vNhich ;you left witii me, and have also read and conjiidered the
specification of your Patent, and have not the least hesitation in certifying, that it
is a wholesome and agreeable preparation of the nutritious parts of the root, not
distinguishable in flavour from fresli and well boiled mealy potatoes. I found no
difference between the old and new samples.

If the directions of your specification are carefully followed, I have no doubt
that the preparation will preserve its flavour and nutritious properties, in dry pack>
ages, for any length of time. When cooked as you direct, I find that the grains
swell very much, nnd when of the usual consistence of well mashed Potatoes, that
they have increised in weight from lib. to 4)Ibs.

Messrs. Edwards Sf Co. J. F. Daniell.

From Dr. Paris, F.R.S., President of the Royal College of Physicians,
Author of the celebrated Treatise on Diet, &o.

I have cooked some of the Patent Potato of Messrs. Edwards, and I consider it
a very good substitute for the fresh root.

J. A. 1'auip.

From A. S. Taylor, Esq., Lecturer on Ohemistry, Ouy's Hospital.

1 have exuiniiU'il the Patent Preserved IVitiito sent to nie by M»H<rH. Edwards,
and beg to certify th ,t it contaiiis nil the niilritioiis nroperties of that vegetable,
and that, in my o|)iiiioM, it is well iidapted as an article of fnod.

Alkuki* S. Tavloh.

Kxtrdi

Res|

far as
have tl
cookeiT

Extr^
26th

Ml 110. — The Patent Preservtd Potato hiivinu been tj'sicd and nnalysed iit Sydney,
after the voyage from Kiiul.uid, bv the tolebmlcd Dr. Heiinelt, he eertihus that its
nutritious ami :iiitise>)rbutii; qualities correspond in ev(>ry leipect with the analysis
nnuKi ny Dr. Um;.

Report by Dr. Pereira, author of the celtibratod Treatise on Food, &o.

I bi'iieve Edw.irils' Patent Preserved Potato is .» whok'Honu' and nutritiouH food*
and IS espeeially adapted tor general use and an antiscorbutic at sea.

(Signed) Jno. Pkrriha, M.I>., r.N.g.

Icmhn, ./nil/ iMIh, \n,M. Fellow >'' l/ic HoijiU CoUnji' of I'hi/iihuint, ^<,

ir.B.— By Analysis Bdwards* Vatcnt Fotato Is pr«par«d
only firom th* best quality and seleotsd sound Potatoes.

d Potato,
i consists

matter ;

without
8 to those
being the

EDWARDS* PATENT PRESERVED POTATO,
(from the Riglit Hon. the Lords Conimissioners of the .Admiralty.)
Extract of Special Report on the Patent Preserved Potato from Dr.
Wilson, Inspector of Hospitals, S^c, dated on board H.M. Hospital ship
Minden, at Chusan, 17 th April, 1843, and addressed to Vice- Admiral
Sir W. Parker, Commander- in- Chief in China and the East Indies.

Uesnectin^ their general merits as an article of ration, I express the opinion so
fur as 1 have had tlie means of judging, that they possess valuable qualities, they
have the general characteiistic of containing a large portion of nutriment, are easily
cooked, and which is of as ninch consequence as an article of diet, are palatable.

Extracts from Minutes of Evidence taken before .the Select Committee
House of Commons on Preserved Meats (Navy), 1852.

26<A March. E. A, Smith, Esq., Paymaster and Purser, West India

Station.

(examined by Mr. Fordyce),

You stated that you had Preserved Potatoes on board ; were the condemnations
of them great? — No, I do not recollect any condemnation of them.

Do you tliink that they are a ^leat comfort to the men ? — Certainly.

And ought to hu contiiiutMl .' — Certainly ; I think they are of great importance
to the men when on Salt Meat rations.

./. Sclfc, Esq., (with Messrs. Green) examined by Admiral Stetvart,

Lord of the Admiralty.

Does it answer? — I think it a very good thing.

No complaints made of it? — No.

And it keeps perfectly well ? — I have known some sent out for a third voyage.

Do you know whose patent it is f — Edwards'.

Arctic Expedition.

Her Majesty^ t Ships Resolute and Assistance, Pioneer and Intrepid, Steam

Tenders, in search of Sir John Franklin, ^-c, 1850 and 1851.

We the Commanders and Officers em|)loyed in the Arctic Expedition under
Captain Horatio Thomas Austin, c.ii., feel hound to record our favourable testi-
mony to the excellent properties of Edwards' Patent Preserved Potato. In fact
we can scarcely speak toohighly of it asa venetable; being able to use it in various
ways, It retained all the virtue, and much of the flavour of fresh mashed potato,
during the whole voyage out and home, a period of eighteen months; and that
remaining is as good and serviceable us ever. The men having been perfectly free
from scurvy, we arc induced to entertain a high opinion of its antiscorbutic proper-
ties. The whole of the people appeared to relish the Preserved Potato more with
their salt meat than with anything else, and intinitcly to prefer it to rive, or the
mixed vegetable or carrots, with which these ships were sii|)plied.

Signed by the Odicers and Sumeons of 1 1. M.S.

Hisotuti, AHsislinicc, I'ionecr, Intrepid,

Extract of Report from John Ward, Esq., Paytnaster, R.N.

I heg ti/ obierve, that during the period I wan paymasiler of H.M. ship Axiv,
nnployetl on the west coast of South America, from IH47 to IBAI, I had great
opportunities of testing liie qualities of Edwards' I'n served Potato. ( consider
them to keep well in all tlimatcs, and were of excellent quality, none wore con-
denuu'd or objected to during the above time, alllioui<li tlu! change of climate from
extremo cold lo heat was IrKpient, nor do 1 reco'h-ct of any being condemned in
the '•i|ua(lron.

The officers and shi|)'s company at all liines gladly availed theniselvcN of taking
<ip their full allowiuice, and I had frequent applications for an extra (piantity had
I been allowed to issue it. I am of opinion that my Lordw (Commissioners of the
Atlmirally wtmld be conducing much to the hcilth and comfort of the crows of ||or
Majesty's ships upon foreign stations were they to reduce the oalnieul and peiw,
(of which there is more than is roritiircd.) and i»sue a proportion of the I'rpsetved
Potatoes III li«u on eadi salt beef day.

(Sigiit'dj JtiiiN Wakd, U.N.,

rorhtmiHth, 6Ui Mut/, iQb'i, Littc Voymuiiiir 'il H.M, s/np Am,

m^mimm

Letter from Sir William Burnett, k.c.h., f.r.8., Director General
OF THE Medical Department of the Navy.

Gentlemen, — I have to acknowledge llie receipt of your letter dated the 29th
ult., enclosing a testimonial from Captain Sir James Ross, and other OfBcers of
the late Expedition to the Arctic Regions, as to the beneficini qualities of your
Patent Preserved Potato, and in reply acquaint you, that I am very glad to see^so
satisfactory a testimony in favour of the article in question, as forming part of the
diet of ships of war on long voyages or cruizes ; and as far as I can I shall be happy
to promote its more extensive use in the Royal Naval service. Q

(Signed) W. Burnett, Director General, Ifc.

From John Breaks, Esq., Store Keeper, Her Majesties Victualling

Yard, Deptford.

I beg to state that Edwards' Preserved Potato, with which 1 was furnishefl in
August, 1845, for use during my passage out to the Cape of Good Hope, not
having been required during the voyage, I kept it by me while residing in that
oolony for a period of six years, and on my return to England in a merchant ship,
I had occasion to use it in August, 1851, when it was daily served at tabic in
excellent condition and much approved. I consider it to be a most desirable and
useful article of food, especially on long voyages, and therefore strongly recommend
it as invaluable for such purpose. (Signed) John Bkraks,

Late Agent Victualler Navy at the Cape of Good Hope.

Extract from the Nautical Magazine for Decemberf 1853.

Arctic Regions.

With reference to the provisions supplied for the several expeditions, we are
glad to find Edwards' Patent Preserved Potato maintains its high reputation as an
important vegetable diet for Arctic as well as other services. Captain M'CIure
of II.M.S Investigator, in his dispatches from the Arctic regions, testifies as to
** the excellence ot that invaluable vegetable the preserved potato manufactured
by Edwards," which .is further confirmed by the following letters from Captain
Inttlefield and Dr. Charlton, H.M.S. Phanix, to Me>srs. Edwards and Co.,
patentees of the preserved potato.

II.M.S. Phtenir, Nov. 1868.
" I have much pleasure in bearing my testimony to the excellent flavour and
quality of the preserved potatoes you supplied me for my last Arctic expedition.
'The facility with which these potatoes are cooked and their convenient substance,
are points of great benefit as regards utility in Arctic travelling, and I can strongly
recommend them."

E A. Inglefikm), Captain, R.N., F.R.S.

" It aflbrds mc much pleasure in being able to bear testimony to the excellent
quality of your preserved potato as supplied to the gun-room of II. MS. Phanix,
and wnich gave the most complete satisfaction to all concerned on board that
ship in the Arctic regions.

Jno. F. Chariton, M.D, g iri',voii, R.N."

Edwards' Patent I'lciervcd Potato is packed in 1 cwt. Metal Cases, of con-
venient stowago, rontnining, from its concentrated state, the equivalont of about 5
cwt of that vegetable, (and, there being no waste, is as cbeaj) as ooininon potntoes.)

"This Preserved Potato is prepared by merely adding UoiMiig VVuter, when, in
a fell) minutes, a dish of excellent maslied potatoes is produced ready for table.

Supplied, in cases containing 1121b , Ttfllb., 281b., and t4lb., by nil Piiovikion
MrnciiANTR, Still's' Stoiir DrAi.rns, &c., in the United Kingdom, also, in the
East and West Indies, Colonies, 8ic., &cc.

1). and H. EDWAUDS and Co., Sole Vutmteen.

I, Uishopsgate Streut and Wapping Wall, London.

JrENBRAL

1 the 29tli
OfBcers of
•s of your
I to see^so
part of the
be liappy

rid, !fc.

ailing

rnislipri in
Hope, not
Iff in that
hant ship,
at tabic in
irable and
;cotnmend

iKKAKS,

Uwd Hope.

ns, we are
tion as an
I M'CIure
tiBes as to
lufactured
n Captain
and Co.,

V. 1868.
avoiir and
xpedition.
substance,
,n strongly

F.U.S.

i excullent
, Phanix,
lioard that

I, Il.N."

;s, of con-
nf ttboui ,1
polntdcs.)
, when, in
I for table,

PllOVISION

ilso, in the

London.