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T Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by JOHN E. POTTER, In the Clerk's OflBce of the District Court of the United States, in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. PREFACE. lar 1859, by nited States, in inia. California is my theme. She is now an integral portion of this great Kepublic. A mighty popula- tion from all parts of the world has congregated on her shores, and with giant strides she marches on to power and greatness. Her mineral wealth seems inexhaustible, vast sums of gold being annually exported to the Atlantic States and elsewhere. But a few short years and her condition was widely different. With but a sparse white popula- tion; with a government hardly existing other than in name, deeds of wrong, of violence, and of blood were of constant occurrence. Of this interesting portion of her history comparatively little is known ; and it is of this period that I propose to write. To what I saw and heard while in the country has (iii) It PREFACE. been added authentic information from every known source. We may learn much from tlie pulseless soli- tudes — from the desert untrodden by the foot of living thing — from the frozen world of mountains, whose chasms and cliffs never echoed to aught but the thunder-tempests girding their frozen peaks — ■ from old Nature, piled, rocky, bladeless, toneless — if we will allow its lessons of awe to reach the mind, and impress it with the fresh and holy images which they were made to inspire. And now, dear reader, my task is done. Should you laugh and weep, suffer and rejoice, with the actors in the wayfarings before you, and send your fancy in after-times over those rose-clad realms where they will lead you, and feel the dews of a pleasant remembrance falling on your life, I shall receive a Ml reward for my toil. Adieu. THE AUTHOR. every known Lilselcss soli- the foot of F mountains, to aught but zen peaks — ■ IS, toneless — o reach the . holy images >ne. Should ce, with the id send your -clad realms e dews of a life, I shall lUTHOR. CONTENTS. I CHAPTER I. The frrnat Pacific— A Storm at Sea— Our Crew and Com- pany — Various Yarns — Old Ocean in a Rage — How we turned in, S CHAPTER II. Pictures of Woe — The Sack of Bones — Hia Experiences in California — The Black Cook and Scotch Mate — Land, ho! — Various Emotions produced — Honolulu and the Professor of Psalmody, 22 CHAPTER III. The First Visitors to the Hawaiian Islands — What Civiliza- tion and Christianity has done— On the Sea again— Our Crew and Passengers— A Squall — Land ahead — California forever ! 37 CHAPTER IV. Brief Whispers of a Revolution — California Officials — Famish- ing in Prison — Isaac Uraham and Viis Men — Alvarado in Power — Base Treachery, 62 CI'APTER V. What the Prisoners Said— John Warner's Story— The Spec- tral Fleet — The Hardy American Trappers — The Mock Trial — The brave Tennesscean in Despair — A California Festa 70 CHAPTER VI. Vale of San Carmelo— A California Lawyer — Long Tom Sas- safras—The Coast — El Mission Do Santa Barbara— The Prisoners again — A Friend in Need, 98 CHAPTER VIL California as it was — The Search for Gold — Wreck and Hor- rible Sufferings of Cortes' People — The Excitement at its Height— The Star of Cortes wanes 117 (V) (M) N T E N T8. ClIAPTKR VIII. Hpimiab Adventurers again — 'I'hcir Fortnneg and Misfor- tunes — Indian (Jourtesv — A Tcrril)!c Diaeusc- -OfBcers all Sick— A Sovereign IJalm and au Aflectiug Mcene 121 CHAPTER IX. Brilliant Hopes and Small Results— An Intended Massacre— A Holy Voyage (Jommenced — Trouble with the Indians — The Padres Triumphaut— Last Days of S'ather Kino, 149 CHAPTER X, The Holy Voyagers ot their Work— A Famine— The First Execution in California — "What one Musket did — Poison and Death 168 CHAPTER XI. The Padres and the Indians — Hope on, Hope ever — The Good Father Salva Tierra — His Sufferings and Death — Great Mourning — Thirty Thousand People m Prayer 189 CHAPTER XII. The Wealth of Exhaustless Energy— Triumph of the Cross — Zeal of the Padres — Frightful Tempests and a Water Spout 201 CHAPTER XIII. How Father Napoli Discomfited the Indians — A Band of Depredators — A Terrible Storm — An Indian Force and a Victory — A Voyage of Discovery — Another Jonah and an Enormous Shark 221 CHAPTER XIV. Troubles Thicken— The Indians in Revolt— Brutal Murder of Father Carranco — Infernal Orgies- Another Murder — The Indians to the Rescue — A Victory of Love — California Shrouded in Gloom, 237 CHAPTER XV. • Life and Light again for California — Thieves and a Fight — Death of Father Junipero — What California was — Masterly Inactivity of Alvarado — Captain Jose Castro, his Intrepid Ally, 261 CHAPTER XVL War with the United States — Heroism of the Americans — Various Battles — Conquest — Discovery of Gold — On the Pacific again — Long Tom finishes his Yarn — Poor Graham and the last of the Prisoners — Home again, 299 nd Misfor- OfTicers all e 121 Massacre — ! Indians — £ino, 149 -The First lid — Poison 168 -The Good ath — Great 189 ;he Cross— 1 a Water 201 \. Band of orce and a lab and an 221 Murder of irder — The -Calit'ornia 237 a Fight— — Masterly is Intrepid 261 mericans — d— On the or Graham 299 CHAP! f. R I. A Reminiscence — A Spectacle — Oreg( r.— _»vidward and Seaward— Th* Oreat South Sea — Mafjic Palace — 'r«ki-«j in Studding-sails — Ciivem»— Storm in Full Blast — Professor of Ps;..jn(Kly— Fur Hunter — A British Tar— An Author— A Sealx^it — A Cor-iscrew — A FlJ'Ron — A Conversa- tion about Life in the Northwest — Its Dors — Lo-js — I-VukI— Surface- - Lords of the Noith— Fro/en Mountains — Moss — Flowers — Potatoes, Oats and Barley — Indian Wives and Sheep — The AnUic Shore — Suicide of a Brave Man — A Solo— Kel Pond — Ghost in the Shrouds — Tumn ' in Upper and Lower Ocean— Minor Key — War-cry — Special Pleading — The Sea— Wine and Song — To Bed. In a work entitled "Travels in the Great Western Prairies," &c., to which the following pages are a seiiuel, I left my readers off ihe ujoiith of Columbia river, in sight of the green coast of Oregon. Lower Oregon ! A verdant belt of wild loveliness ! — A great park of flowering shrubs, of forest pines, and clear streams ! The old unchanged home of the Indian ; where he has hunted the moose and deer ; drawn ihe trout from the lake, and danced, sung, loved, and war- r«>d away a thousand generations. I cannot desire for my- self any reinembiances of the Past which shall bring me more genuine wealth of pleasurable emotions than those which ;ame to me from that fourth sunset of December, 1840, when I was leaning over the bulwarks of the sliip Vancruver, looking back on Oregon, and seaward over the great Pacific! A spectacle of true grandeur ! The cones of eternal snow which dot the green heights of the President's range of mountains, rose on the dark outline of the disiant land, and 6 SOENKS IN THE PACIFIC. hung glittering on the sky, like isIandH of preoious stonoii ; BO brightly did thoy shine in the Hotting sun, and mo coniph'tcly did the soft clouds around their basos Boom to separate them from the world below I Tlie shores of Lower Oregon ! They rise so boldly from tlio Bca ! Themselves mountains sparsely clad with lofty pines, spruce and cedar trees, nodding over the deep ! And then the ground nndcr water ! No flats, no mud hank* there. Tho cliffs are piled up from the bottom of tlie occui The old Pacific, witli his dark depths, lies witliin one iiundrcd yards of them ! And the surg(!3 that run in from tho fury of the tempests, roll with unbroken force to tho towering rocks, and breaking with all their momentum at once, making the hind tremble, and send far seaward a migiity chorus to tho siiout- ing storm I The Pacific ! the Great South Sea I It was heaving at our bows I steadily, wave on wave came and went and following each other in ceaseless march pressed onward ; like the world's hosts in marshaled files, they hastened past us, as if intent to reach the solid shores, wiierc some resistance would broach tlieir hid- den strength and pour their fury out ! Behold the sea I Its troubled wastes are bending and top- pling with a wild, plashing, friendly sound ; a deep, blue, un- certain vastnoss ; itself cold and passive ; but under the lash of the tempest, full of terrific life ! Our ship stood stauncli upon the palpitating mass, and seemed to love it. Mizcu and inizen-top, main and main-top, fore and fore-top- Bails, and the lower weather studding-sails were out. The breeze from the land which had carried us over the bar still held, every thread of canvass drew, every cord was tight, and as wo looked op through the rigging to the sky, tho sails, cordage and masts swayed under the clouds like the roofing of some magic palace of olden tales. All hands were on deck ; both watches sat about the windlass ; while the second officer and mate looked at tho horizon over the weather-bow, and pointed out a line of clouds crowding ominously up the southwestern sky. The captain stood I •cfious stonofl ; 1 HO coinitlctcly Hepariitu tlicut (oldly from tlio th lofty pines, no ninil bank* of tlu) OCCill I QUO hundred II tlio fury of owcring rocks, aking tlui land to tho tiliuut- leaving at our following cacli I world's hosts [itcnt to re.'inh •ach tiieir hid- ding and top- ?ep, blue, uu- Icr tho lash of stauuuh upoa and fore-top- t. The breozo till held, every as wo looki'd ge and musta B magic paliu-o tches sat about looked at tho line of clouds i captain stood 1 TRAVELS IN THK CAI. ITORNIAS. npon the companion-way, looking at the barometer. In a little time ofiBcers and passengers gathered in a knot on the larboard quarter. " I ken there's a storm comin' up frae the soo'est," said the Scotch mate. " The clouds loom fast, sir, in that quaiter," said Mr. New- ell, the American second-mate. " I reckon it will be upon ua soon." Captain Duncan needed no information in regard to the weather on these shores. He was everywhere an accomplished seaman. On the quarter deck — with his quadrant — on the spars — and at the halyards ; but especially in that prophetic knowledge of the weather, which gives the sons of Neptune their control over the elemnnts, he had no superiors " Take in the studding-sails and make 3II fast on deck," is the order, issued with quietness and obeyed with alacrity. Water casks, long-boat, and caboose are lashed, ropes coiled up and hung on the pins in the bulwarks, and the hatches put down in storm rig. The wind before which we were running abated, and the horizon along the line of departing light began to lift a rough undulating edge. " Take in the mainsail !" " Go aloft and take a reef in the maintop !" " In with the fore-main, and let. the trysail run !" followed each other in haste, as the sailors moved to the cheer- ing music of their songs in the work of preparing the ship to wrestle with a southwester. Everything being made snug, wo waited its coming. The rough water which appeared a mere speck when the wind came upon the circle of vision, had widened till its extreme points lay over the bows. On it came, widening and elevating itself more and more ! The billows had previously been smooth, or at least ruffled sufficient only to give their gentle heaving sides a furzy aspect, while the tops occasionally rose in trans- parent combs, which immediately crumbled by their own weight, into foam down their leeward acclivities. But now a stronger spirit had laid his arm on these ocean coursers. The wind came 8 SCENES' IN THE PACIFIC. on, steadily increasing its might from moment to moment I At first it tore the tops of the waves into ragged linv ., then rent the whole surface into fragments of every conceivable form, which rose, appeared and vanished, with the rapidity of thought, dancing like sprites among the lurid moving caverns of the sea ! A struggling vastness ! constantly broken by the flail of tlio tempest, and as often reunited, to be cleft still farther by a re- doubled blast. The darkness thickened as the storm increased; and when the lanthorn was ligiited in the binnacle, and tiie night-watch set, the captain and passengers went below to tlieir wine and anecdotes. Our company consisted of four persons. One was a singing-master, from Connecticut, Texas, New Orleans, and St. Louis. He was such an animal as one would wish to find if he were making up a human menagerie ; so positive was he of step, so lofty in the neck, and dignified in the absurd blunders wherewith he perpetually corrected the opinions and a.isertions of others. Anotiier was a Mr. Simpson, a young Scotchman, of re- spectable family, a clerk in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company. Tiiis was a fine fellow, twenty-five years of age, full of energy and good feeling, well-informed on goiwral topics, and 'ike most otiicr JJritish subjects abroad, troubled with an irre- pressible anxiety at tlie growing power of the States, and an overwhelming loyalty toward the mother country and its Sove- reign skirts. The other personages were the commander, Dun- can, and the author. The Captain was an old British tar, with % heart full of generosity for his friends, and a fist full of bones for his ene- mies. A glass of cheer with a messmate, and a rope's end for a disobedient sailor, were with him impromptu productions, for which he had capacity and judgment ; a hearty five foot nine inch, burly, stout-chested Englishman, whom it was always pleasant to see and hear. This little company gathered around the cabin table, and all as one listened a moment to the beatings of the tempest. TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 3nt to momen*; I Tged liriv., then oiiceivablc form, idity of thougbt, ems of the sea ! the flail of tlie farther by a re- used; and when tlie night-watch tlieir wine and •sous. One was w Orleans, and lid wish to find positive was he in the absurd be opinions and itohman, of re- i Hudson's B.iy ears of age, full wral topics, and id with an irre- States, and an y and its Sove- miiuander, Dun- rn, heart full of )nes for his ene- d a rope's end jtu productions, iiearty five foot m it was always abin table, and of the tempest. A surge— another— and a third still heavier, beat upon llie no- ble ship, and sent a thrill through every timber. On they roll- ed, and dashed, and groaned. But her iron heart only seemed to gather strength from the conflict, and inspire us with a feeling of perfect safety. " A fine sea-boat is the Vancouver, gentlemen," said Captain Duncan, " she rides the storm like a petrel :" and with this com- fortable assurance we seated ourselves at the table. I had nearly forgotten Tom, the cabin-boy ; a mere mouse of a lad ; who knew the rock of a ship and the turn of a corkscrew as well as any one; and as he was spry, had a short name, a quick ear, and bore the keys to the sideboard and some things elsewhere, all well-bred stomachs would not fail to blast my quill, if I omitted to write his name and draw his por- trait. Well, Tom was one of those sons of old England, who aro born to the inheritance of poverty, and a brave heart for the Bcas. Like many thousand children of the Fatherland, when the soil refused him bread, he was apprenticed for the term of seven years to seamanship. And there he was, an English sailor-boy, submitting to the most rigorous discii)line, serving the first part of his time in learning to keep his cabin in order, and wait at the table, that when, as he was taught to expect, he should have a ship of his own, he might know how to be served like a gentleman. This part of his apprenticeship he performed admirably. And when he shall leave the cork-screw and the locker for the quarter-deck, I doubt not he will scream at a Btorm, and utter his commands with sufficient itnperiousness to entitle him to have a Tom of his own. " Tom," said Captain Duncan, " bring out a flagon of Jar niaica, and set on the glasses, lad. This storm, gentlemen, calla for cheers. When Neptune labors at this pace, he loves his dram. Fill, gentlemen, to absent wives." This compliment to the sacred ascendency of the domestic affections was timely given. The storm howled hideously, for our lives, our families 10 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. were far distant over seas and mountains, the hear' was pressed with sadness : we drank in silence and with swimming eyes. A pleasant conversation followed this toast, in which each one of our little band exhibited himself in his own way. The Cap- tain was a hearty old Saxon, who had inherited from a thousand generations, a love for home, its hearth and blazing evening fire, its old oaken table, its family arm-chair, and the wife who presided over that temple of holy affections. In him, therefore, we had the genuine spirit of those good old times when man used his physical and mental powers, to build about his heart the structures of positive happiness, instead of the artificial sem- blances of these, which fashion and affectation draw around the modern home. Our professor of psalmody was the opposite of this. He had, when the red blood of youth warmed his heart in the ways of honest nature, spoken sweet things to a lovely girl, won her affections, promised marriage, and as his beard grew became a gentleman ; that is, jilted her. He, therefore, was fond of free- dom, could not be confined to so plain and quiet a business as the love of one woman, and the care of a family of children. " It was quite horrid, indeed it was, for a man who had any mufaic in his soul ; the mere idea was concentrated j^icra to his moral stomach ; the thought, bah ! that a gentleman could ever think of being a daddy, and trotting on his paternal knee a semi- yearling baby." Mr. Simpson was from the braes of Scotland. For many years he had lived an isolated and roving life, among the nows, morasses, and lakes of the wilderness, whicji lies west and north- west of Hudson's Bay. He had been taught his catechism at kirk, and also a proper respect for the ties of the domestic senti- ments. But the peculiar idea of manliness^ which grows up in those winter realms of danger, privation, and loneliness, had gradually habituated him to speak of these relations as desirable mainly when the body had expended its energy in striding mountains, in descending rocky torrents with boats laden ai I ti t1 a \ ii o C g f. r t P II r t I c a V t 1 1 c 1 I TRAVELS IN THE CALirORNIAS. 11 ar^ was presHod iming eyes, which each one ray. The Cap- Tom a thousand ing eveuiug fire, the wife who I him, therefore, imes when maa about his heart le artificial sein- Iraw around the ' this. Ho had, in the ways of y girl, won her grew became a ras fond of free- st a business as lily of children, .n who had any ted picra to his iman could ever nal knee a semi- nd. For many imong the nows, west and north- lis catechism at I domestic senti- lich grows up in loneliness, had ons as desirable rgy in striding th boats laden with furs, and in the other bold enterprises of these daring traders. From him we obtained a description of some portions of that vast country occupied by the Hudson's Bay Company; and some information on other topics connected with it. Life in the Company's service was briefly described. Their traveling is performed in various ways at different seasons of the year and in different latitudes. In Oregon their journeys are chiefly made in Mackinaw boats and Indian canoes. With these they ascend and descend the various streams, bear- ing their cargoes, and often their boats, from the hei^d-waters of one to those of aiiotlier. In this manner they pass up the Cowelitz and descend the Chiliilis with their furs and other goods ; thus do they roach the heiid-waters of the northern fork of the Columbia, pass over the Rocky Mountains, and run down the rivers and lakes to Canada. Farther north on the east side of the Rocky Mountain range, they travel much on foot in summer, and in winter (wliich is there the greatest part of the year) on sledges drawn by dogs. Ten or twelve of these animals are attached to a liglit sledge, in which the man sits wrapped in furs and surrounded by meat for his cai*- nivorous steeds and provisions for himself. Thus rigged, the train starts on the hard snow crust, and make eighty or one hundred miles before the dogs tire. When the time for rest comes, they are unharnessed, fed, tied to the bushes or shrubs, and the traveler enveloped in furs, addresses himself to sleep under the lea of a snow-bank or precipitous rock. When na- ture is recruited, the train is again harnessed and put on route. The Aurora Borealis, which flames over the skies of those latitudes, illuminates the country so well, that the absence of the sun during the winter months offers no obstacles to these journeyings. Drawn by dogs over mountain and plain, under heavens filled with electric crackling liglit, the traveler feels that his situation harmonizes well with the sublime desolatioQ of that wintry zone. In this manner these ad- 12 BCENESIWTHEPACI IC. vpiiturous men travel from the mouth of Mackenzio's river to York on Hudson's Bay and to Canada. Their dwellings are usually constructed of logs in the form of our frontier cabins. They are generally surrounded bv pickets, and in other respects arranged so as to resist any attack which the neighboring savages may make upon them. They are usually manned by an officer of the Company and a few Canadian Frenchmen. In these rude castles, rismg m the midst of the frozen north, live the active and fearless gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company. The frosts of the poles caV neither freeze the blood nor the nergy of men who spring from the little Island of Britain. The torrid, the temperate, and the frozen zones alike hear the language and acknowledge the power of thai wonderful race. The food of these traders is as rude as their mode of life. At most of the Forts they live almost exclusively on the white and other kinds of fish ; no vegetables of any description are obtainable ; an occasional deer orwoods buffalo or musk ox is procured ; but seldom is their fare changed from the produce of the lakes and streams. At a few of their stations not even these can be had ; and the company is obliged to supply them with pemican. This is buffalo meat dried, finely pulverized, mixed with fat and service berries, and secured in leathern sacks. They transport this from latitudes forty-eight and nine to different places on Mackenzie's river, and other parts of the extreme north. Wild fowls, geese and ducks afford another means of subsistence. At York and other posts m the neighborhood of lakes, large numbers of these fowl are taken in the summer season, and salted for winter use. But with all their painstaking, these gentlemen live but poorly ; on a diet of flesh alone, and that of an indifferent quality. Hardy men are these lords of the snow. Their realm em braces one-ninth of the earth. This immense territory Mr. Simpson informed us has a great variety of surface. On the north-eastern portion lie extensive tracts of per petually frozen mountains, cut by narrow valleys filled with f o o ii 1 t 8 C 1 TRAVELS IN THE CALIFOBNIAB. 13 I I c. f Mackenzie's river da. cted of logs in the [onerally surrounded red so as to resist any lay make upon them, of the Company and ; rude castles, rising le active and fearless y. The frosts of the • the nergy of men Britain. The torrid, ike hear the language onderful race, their mode of life. At lusively on the white of any description are 3 buffalo or musk ox is iged from the produce heir stations not even )bliged to supply them ied, finely pulverized, id secured in leathern tudes forty-eight and s river, and other parts ;eese and ducks afford ork and other posts in ibers of these fowl are d for winter use. But lemen live but poorly ; an indifferent quality. )W. Their realm em ! immense territory Mr. iety of surface, xtensivo tracfs of per irrow valleys fiUod witJi fallen cliffs, among which dash and roar numerojs riveti on their way to the frozen sea. Scarcely any timber or other vegetation grows in these wastes. A lonely evergreen or a stunted white birch takes root here and there, and dur- ing the few weeks of summer, mosses and linchens pre- sent a few verdant spots in the damp recesses of the rocks. But cold winds, laden with hail and sleet, howl over the budding of every green thing ! The flowers can scarcely show their petals and set their seeds, before winter with itd cracking ices and falling snow embraces them ! The section of country which lies about Mackensie'g river, differs from that described, in having dense forests •kirtmg portions of the valleys, and large plains ot moss ind linchen, on which feed the deer, buffalo, musk-ox and moose. The river itself is, in summer months, navigable 'or batteaux several hundred miles. It is well stored with trout, salmon, white and other fish. But the winters there also scarcely end. before they begin again their work of freezing land, strt am, and sea. The extensive country lying on the head waters of the streams which run northward into the Frozen Ocean, east- ward into Hudson's Bay, and southward into the Canadian waters, is composed of swamps, broken at intervals with piles of boulders and minor mountains, and dotted with clumps of bushes, plots of hassocks, and fields of wild rice. The waters of these taM- lands form many lakes and lofty cascades on the way to their several destinations. The roar of these on the dreadful frozen barrenness around, Mr. Simpson represented to be awful in the extreme ; so wild, hoarse, and ringing are their echoes. We are informed that there are considerable tracts of arable land on the western side of Hudson's Bay, occupied by several settlements of Scotch : that these people culti- vate nothing but potatoes, oats, barley, and some few garden vegetables ; and are altogether in a very undesirable con- dition. He also informed us of a tra^t of tillable landi 14 BOENES IN THE PACIFIC. 1 i lying some hundreds of miles north-east of Lake Superior, on which Lord Selkirk had founded a colony ; tliat thJH scttlciiient contains about three thousand peopJo composed chiefly nf gentle- men and servants, who have retired from the Company's ser- vice with their Indian wives and half-breed children. They cultivate considerable tracts of land, have cattle and horses, schools and churches, a Catholic IJisiiop and a Protestant preacher of the English Church. Some years since, a Mr. McLeod, from this Kettlemcnt, went to Indiana and purchased ^■ very large drove of sheep fof ts use. IJut in driving tiiem a thousand miles over the prairies, their fleeces became so matted with poisonous bum, that most of them died before reaching their place of destination. Mr. Simpson related a few incidents of an exploring expedi- tion, which the Company had despatched to the northern coast of America. The unsatisfactory results of those fitted out by the homo government, under Parry, Franklin, Iloss, and Back, whioh had been partially furnished with men and means by the Company, led it at length to undertake one alone. To this end it despatched, in 1838, one of its oflficers, aceom{)anied by our friend Simpson's brother, well furnished with men, instruments, and provisions, on this hazardous enterprise. I have since be.m informed, that this Mr. Simpson was a man of groat energy and talent — the one indeed on whom the Company relied fo. the success of the undertaking. From his brother I learned only that the unexplored part of the coast was surveyed, that the waters of Davis' Strait were found to flow with a strong current westward, and enter the Pacific through Behring's Strait ; and that Greenland consequently is an island or con- tinent by itself I The Mr. Simpson of this expedition is now known to the civilized world to have trodden the ices and snows, and breathed the frozen air of that horrid shore ; and by BO doing to have added these great facts to the catalogue of human knowledge ; and having become deranged in consequence of his inoredible sufEerings, to have blown out his own brains ft w d a C( ri fa S V w fi Be BC h ei ti P fi, a1 ui h ta ai I ti 01 St as ti J d [ 0. TRAVELS IN THE CAMFORNtAB, IS Lake Superior, on liat thirt sottlfinent 1 chiefly (rf gentle- ,e Company's ser- cliildron. They lattle aud horses, kiid a Protestaut ars since, a Mr. a aud purchased ^ in driving tiieiu a became so matted id before reaching exploring expedi- :he northern coast losc fitted out by Koss, and Back, xnd means by the jne. To this end om{)anied by our nan, instruments, I have since a man of groat B Company relied brother I learned ras surveyed, that ow with a strong trough Behring'a an island or con- ixpedition is now ien the ices aud id shore ; and by the catalogue of id in consequenoe i his own brains on the field of his glorious deeds. Our companion, poor fellow, was happily ignorant of tiiat sad event, and spoko of the expedition only as one of groat liardsliip, yet such as he would have gladly shared. II is brave kinsman was then dead I When Mr. Simpson paused in those interesting narrations, our proft«sor of psalmody, who had been beating the table with a tuning-fork, opeued a solo upon Texts. He had been in that country, and was, in his own estimation, as familiar with its rivers, plains, forests and destiny, as with the paths across his fatljer's slieep pasture. Galveston was a London in embryo : Sam Houston had inherited the knee-buckles and shoe-knots of Washington's patriotism : the whole country was an Eden in which he had obtained the best sight for a grist-mill and the finest pond for eels ! In short, we were informed in a tone of self-consequence, at least an octave above mi, on any known scale of conceit, thai himself and a brace of fellow blades, on hearing that the government had offered a bounty of land to emigrants, went thitlier, remained long enough to perfect their title to a share of the public domain, and were then obliged by pressing business to return to the States and leave others to fight and die for freedom. He had a belief that the Californias would make a respectable abode for man, if it were conquered by a bold arm, a little music, and made into a Republic by a man, he did not mention hie own name, whose character for bravery, intelligence and taste for the fine arts, ho did not say psalmody, would draw around him the unemployed intellect aud courage of the States. In conclusion he modestly remarked, that he himself was des- tined to the Californias, but did not say that he intended to open there a revolutionary singing-school. While this conversation was going on, the good old ship waa struggling with the tempest. She headed north-westerly, and as the storm and swells came from the south-west, she at one time lay in the trough of the sea, and then, as the wave bore down upon her, swayed to the leeward a moment, rocked udou 18 BCCNKB IN THE PAOlFIO. its Mimmit, and as tho snrfre pnsscd on, reeled to the windw.iM and slid into tho trougli iiKiiiii. This \» the bitterest motion of a siiip at sea, whetiior lie wiiom it stiirrjrcrs be a " land lub- bcr" or " salt." Tlie latter finds it difficult to take his watch- walk from tho windlass to tho fore-stays, and swears that such a lullaby is as unworthy of tho ocean god as it is unseemly for a decent sailor, to stand, at ono instant with one leg clewed up and the other out, and the next clewed tho other way, and bo compelled, at each change, to brace himself back in the attitude of being frightened to death by a ghost in the shrouds. Tho landsman, may perhaps feel too much awe to swear at the great deep, employed in its sublime labors ; or if he dare profane thus the majesty of his Maker's movements, his noble self is usually the objert nf so much solicitude as to deny him any adeciuato opportunity of doing so. His stomach will de- mand much of the attention which he would fain bestow upon other objects ; and it will ."carccly be n'fiised what it requires. We sat at tiic table till eight bells. A deliglitful chit-chat we had ; such a variety of wisdom, such splendor of reminiscence, such bolts of reason rending and laying bare all the mines of thought W..re there! But this and all that we had in expectancy that night ended not in smoke ; that would have been land-like ; but in a stealthy withdrawal of our company, one at a time, to pay their tribute to Padre Neptune. The singiiig master struck min/yr key first ; the fur hunter followed with his war-cry ; the Green Mountain lawyer came to the encounter with a throat full of special plead- ing ; and after a hot melee each surrendered, on such terms aa he could procure, all claim to the inborn rights of a quiet stomach and clean nose ; and turned in. The night was passed by us in the cabin in clinging to our berths. The seamen on deck struck the bells, changed the watch, and stood out like iron men on the tide of that terrible tempest! Their thrilling " he oe" occasionally cut sharply and cheeriugly m ot bi «l tl tl cii «I tc t^ tl I P' t( h n SI tl Ci 1; (i 8 i i( n 1 ] 1 I 0. TRAVELS IN T»!E CALIFOIINIAS. 17 1 to tlie windw.«rd bittercHt motion be a " lai>d lub- take his watch* wearH that such a 18 unseemly for a ne leg clewed up other way, and be self back in the a ghost in the h awe to swear at i)rs ; or if he dnro vements, his noblo Ic as to deny him s stomaeh will de- fiiin bestow upon J what it requires. 1 chit-chat we had ; reminiscence, such le mines of thought y that night ended ; but in a stealthy pay their tribute ck min/rr key first ; e Green Mountain ill of special plead- 1, on such terms as rights of a quiet le night was passed ths. The seamen tch, and stood out tempest! Their )ly and cheeriugly into the Imarso cadences of tiio storm ! Kvery otlier sound of living thing was buried in tlie clangor of the elements. The next morning opened with gloomy grandeur. The clouds brightened by the first rays of the sun in delaclied spots only, appearing and disappearing in rapid succession, intimated tluit the whole mass of ajrial fluid was fleeing at a fearful pace before the unabated tempest. As the light increased into full day, the canooy liung so dark and densely down the heavens, that night appeared to have retained the half of its dominion. It need not touch the water as fogs do ; but the massive heavy fold left be- tween itself and the surface of the ocean, a spaco apparently three hundred yards in depth. That was a siglit to wonder at. I could conceive of nothing in nature so far beyond the power of words to portray. Does the simile of a boundlcsi tomb, vaulted with mourning crape, shaken by fierce winds, half lighted, filled with death-screams, represent it ? I can- not tell : but such an idea rose as I looked out upon the scene. Old Ocean, too, was in a glorious mood. I have often seen the Atlantic lay with his mighty bosom heaving to the sky, calm and peaceful like a benevolent giant slumbering on a world of lesser things ; or, to use no figure, I had seen it slight- ly agitated, every particle tremulous under a soft breeze, every drop sending back the sunshine, or multiplying iudefinitoly the stars of a clear June night. I had seen it when the swells were torn by a " dry squall," or an hour's " blow," and hoard itn icebergs crack and plunge ; and seen its fearful waterspouts marching so near me that I could hear their awful roar! But I had not seen it raised and rent, in the height of its tu- mult and power. All this was now before me in the great Pacific. At ten o'clock the storm had gained its utmost strength. The ship was laid to. The waves were dashing over her bulwarks. The Captain was standing braced upon the weatlier quarter, dressed in a long pea-jacket, stout sea-pants and boots, an oil-cloth cap covering head and shoulders. The 18 SCENES IN T II i: r A C I F I c . wntch on duty were hud.ilrd under the weather how imd lanhed to tlie staj'H to prevent heiiig washed overhoaid. The second mate stood midHliip, hohling funt to the ripffing. All wero looking Bt the storm. The ship herself lay like a lost water hird, rising, falling, buried and mounting again, among the over- whelming waves. The appearaneo of the sea!— Who can describe it? Liko the land, it had its valleys, and mountains, and streams. But its vales, instead of flowers and praswes, wero cover- ed with wisps of torn water; the mountains instead of snowy peaks, wero billows, crested with combs of light blue water, tipped with foam, perpetually tumbling down and forming again, as the floods rushed on, lashing one another. And the Btreams were not such as flow through meadows and woodlands anwng creeping flower vines; but swift eddies, whirling through the heaving caverns of the sea. Its voice! Its loud bass notes !— What is liko it? Not the voice of the storms which assemble with lightning, thunder and wind, and pour devastating hail and fire on the up- per heights »nd vales of the Rocky Mountains. Nor is it like the deep monitory groan that booms down the Great Prairie Wilderness at midnight, growing louder as it draws near, uutil the accumulated electricity ignites in one awful explosion, rending the clouds and tearing up the shaken ground 1 Nor is it liko the voice of Niagara. That great cataract of the earth has a majestic stave, a bold sound, as it leaps from the poised brink to the whirling depths below! And when the ancient woods, with all their, leafy canopies and ringing crags, stood up around it, and neither the ham- mer of the smith, nor other din of cultivated life, cast its vexing discords among the echoes, the sounds of Niagara must have resembled this sublime duett of the sea and storm ; but never equalled it! It was a single note of nature's lofty hymns. To the ear of the Indian who stood upon the shelving rocks and heard it; who siw the floods come coursing down the rapids, bend upon the brink, and plunge til ati II Bt an ai )i()W mill lanhud (1. Tlie scoond ;ing. All were iko a lost water among the over- icribo it? Liko H, and HtrciiinB. les, wero covcr- uitis iuHteud uf bB of light blue )ling down and ing one another. Iirough meadows ines; but swift of tho Hoa. 8 liko it? Not iglituing, thunder fire on tho \ip- ins. Nor is it down the Great r as it draws near, ) awful explosion, ground ! Nor is iract of the earth leaps from the ow ! And when r canopies and neither the ham- tivatcd life, cast )unds of Niagara e sea and storm ; note of nature's who stood upon r the floods come >rink, and plunge r TRAVEI-f« IN THE CALirutNIAf. 19 plunge with ciuickencd Mpcrd into the vexed caldron, soiidiiii; tlieir peiils to tho rainliowed heaven, they must have borne aii antiiem as grand as his wild mind could compaHH — greater even. His bow must have dropped, and himself nnil the unharmed deer stood together, in mute wonder at Niagara ehanting to tho shudei and silenee of the old American WilderncKS ! Hut tho song of tho sea! Is it not more thon this ? Miles in deptii ; h\indreds of leagues in breadth ; nn immensity drop on drop and mass on muss in motion ! Tiie tempest piles up the surface into lofty ridges, every inch of which emits a peeuliar li(|uid sound, which, mingling sweetly with each other far and wide, pulsates through tho surrounding air and water ! Sweet and boundless melodies of the seas ! We know that the incum- bent air takes up a part of them, while another part goes down into the still and motionless depths below ; the sublime un- broken darkness of the sea ! It was unpleasant to feel that tho screaming cordage of our ships and the ((uarreling of the hull and tho waves, should deprive us of hearing the tones of the Pacific waters, during the strength of a hurricane, unmarrod by any other sound. Can it ever bo given nmn to hear it ? It is the Creator's great choir I Ocean tuned by II is own hand, and swept by the fingers of his tempest I Our good ship, carrying barely sail enough to make her obey the helm, beat from tho southeast to the northwest. On the outward tack we generally made a few miles on our course, a part of which we lost on tho other. It was vexatious to bo buffetted thus to no purpose ; to have our stomachs in a tumult ; our jaws grinding down our teeth instead of eating; but withal it was very amusing. I had always thought men in a tolerable state of misery, possessed increased capacities to render thera^ selves ridiculous. A number of common-place things proved this idea to be true. Turning-in was one of these. This is a process of going to bed ; extraordinary in nothing else than the novel manner in which it is performed at sea in a gale. The reader will pardon me. Please step into the cabin of tho Vancouver, and be seated by the nice little grate, filled with ''' 1 so SCENESINTMEFAOIFie. Llazing coals from the mines of Paget's Sound. You will T,er« hnps amuse one eye with Tam O'Shanter, while with the other you explore. The six foot lawyer is gathering toward his berth. It is the lower one ol the larboard side of the cabin. His countenance, you will observe, is a miniature tempest. The ship rolls suddenly, his feet slip from under him, and he slides under the table, accompanied by a bag of apples, a scuttle of coal, Tom, the cabin-boy, and a hot poker ! Goal, apples, and the law, strown in indiscriminate oonfusiou 1 As one might expect, the lawyer extricates himself from his difficulty, enters a " nolle prosequi" against further proceedings in that direction, ■..ud stretches himself in his berth, without attempting to per- suade his wardrobe to take separate lodgings. The fur-trader seems determined to undress. Accordingly, when the ship, in her rollings, is nearly right side up, he attempts to take off his coat ; unfortunately, however, when he has thrown it so far back as to confine his arms, the ship lurches heavily, and piles him up in a corner of the cabin I Odds-blood ! how bis Scotch under-jaw smites the upper ! It appears that wrath usually fights its battles in that part of mortality to a greater or Jfiss extent. On this occasion, our friend's teeth seem to have been ignited and his eyes set blazing by the concussion ! As, however, there is nothing in particular to fight but the sea, and Xerxes has used up the glory of that warfare, the fur-dealer takes to his berth, without further demonstration of himself than to say that he thinks " the devil's tail is whisking in the storm," and that " his oxfoot majesty and the fin-tailed god must be quarreling stoutly about the naiads." But the professor of psalmody is not to be prevented by these failures from unrobing himself for the embraces of Somnus ; not he. " And if the planks of the ship will float me long enough it shall be done." He does not say that he is on his way to the ocnquest of the Californias ; and tbr^t he will strip himself of his blue roundabout, as he will that beautiful country of its ill- fitting tyranny. His berth is on the starboard side. The ship is pitching and dodging like a spent top. How his bravery will w tr oi d( le pi d' le b P B' b TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 21 i. You will T,er. ie with the other [toward his berth. [ the cabin. His re tempest. The tim, and he slides iplcs, a scuttle of Goal, apples, and As oue might I difficulty, enters 1 in that direction, ttempting to per- ss. Accordingly, deup,he attempts hen he has thrown ip lurches heavily, Odds-blood ! how ippears that wrath ity to a greater or seth seem to have concussion ! As, it but the sea, and ire, the fur-dealer on of himself than ting in the storm," ilea god must be end under such circumstances is a question of no little interest But that something will soon be done, you perceive becomes evident ; for now us the starboard side lowers on the retreating wave, he seizes his outer garment with both hands, and with a whistle and jump that would do credit to a steam-car off the track, wrenches himself out of it just in time to seize the edge of his berth as the next surge strikes the ship and throws it sud- denly on the other side. His vest comes off with more ease and less danger. Boots, too, are drawn without accident. But the pants ! they are tight I He loosens the buttons ; slides them down ; with one hand he holds fast to the berth ; pulls off the left leg with the other, and is about extricating the right foot, but, alas ! that sudden jerk of the ship scatters his half-clad person, bravery, pants and all, among the trembling trunks, Btools, table-legs, &c., to the manifest detriment of the outer bark of his limbs ! At this moment Mr. Simpson is in the midst of his favorite passage — " Ah Tam, ah Tam, thou '11 get thy fairin', In hcl! they '11 roast ihec like a heriu' ' The professor of psalmody, after some search, finds himaeU again, and with courage unimpeached, lies down in silence. )revented by these 3s of Somnus ; not at me long enough on his way to the 1 strip himself of country of its ill- •d side. The ship iw his bravery will ;;i ! H CHAPTER II. The next Morning — Eating— Mermaids — Cupid — A Sack of Boneii on Iti Legs — Love— A Qrandsiie — Slie was a Woman — Chicl;o;is— A Blaclt Son o' the De'il — A Cracli o' tlie Claymore — Sublimity — Tropical Sight — Paternal Star— Cook — A Sense — Edge of the Trades — A Night — " On Deck" — A Guess — A Look and Doubt— To be Dumh/ouni/rml — A Bird Note— Mouna-Kea— Christmas Eve— Watch-Flros of Angels- Birds — Fish — Homestead — Hawaiians — The Land — Moratai — Mooring —Landing at Honolulu— A Slice of Bull— Poi— The Death Wail- Hospitality — The Lover and his Destination — The Fur Hunter on the Back Track— The Professor of Psalmody. The next morning the storm was unabated. The furieo seem- ed abroad. It was a cold sleety day. Both the atmosphere and the ocean looked like maniacs. Not a shred of the visible world seemed at ease with itself ! Commotion, perpetual growls, screams and groans, came up from the tempestuous deep ! Above were clouds, hurrying as from a falling world 1 Below was the ocean shaking ! Eating on tliis day was attended to in a very slight degree. When the diuner bell rang we were all on deck, standing in utter abandonment, to whatever the Fates might have in re- serve for us. Not one would have broken a Christmas wish- bone with the prettiest girl living, to decide whether we should go below or be tumbled overboard. Captain Duncan was a skillful uiagnostician in all such cases. He urged us below. But the thought of bringing our nasal organs into the full odor of bilge water, the steam of smoking meat, po- tatoes, and bean soup, arrested our steps. The good Cap tain, however, pressed us with renewed kindness, and we dragged ourselves down to the table. Ye Mermaids, liow could ye ever learn to eat at sea 1 How could ye, rocked to , t in, wc an an im or W( wi th P' in qi P' e^ C( hi b. ol a b t( d d I t Jack of BoneR on Iti Chickc-.is— A Black Sublimity — Tropical he Trades — A Night be Diimhfouni/ired — ;h-Firos of Aiifjels — — Moratai — Mooring -The Death Wail- Fur Hunter on the The furieo seem- ;h the atmosphere ired of the visible , perpetual growls, snipestuous deep ! ig world 1 Below rery slight degree, deck, standing in night have in re- i Christmas wish- side whether we Captain Duncan 3. He urged us lasal organs into smoking meat, po- The good Cap iindness, and we ) Mermaids, how ould ye, rocked to TRA'-ELS IN THE CALIPOENIA8. 23 sleep in infancy by the billows, educated in the Bchool of the tempest, learn to hold your heads still enough to comb your glistening tresses ! and much more get food within your pearly- grinders ! Pictures of woe were we, starving, yet loathing food ; thirst- ing, yet unable to drink ; wishing for a mote of the stable world to look upon, yet having nothing but the unstable water and air ; imprisoned on the rolling deck, with no foothold, or any odor of flower or earth around. I am reminded here how interesting to the antiquarian would be the inciuiry, whether or not Cupid was ever at sea in a storm. If he were, he would have crowned Hogarth's immortality with its richest wreath, if transferred to canvass, in the act of running from the dinner-table, throwing his quiver behind him, and tip- ping his roguish face, bloated with the cflFort of a retch- ing stomach, over the taffrail. Poor fellow, it makes one quiver to think if there ever were a Cupid, and he ever took passage from the Columbia river to the Hawaiian islands, and ever did attempt to eat, and while doing so were obliged to conform to the etiquette of sea sickness, how sadly he must have suff'ered, and how unlovely the arrow-god must have become ! This sea-sickness, however, is a farce of some consequence. Like the tooth-ache, fever ami ague, and other kindred follies of the body it has its origin in the faculty will please an- swer what. But seriously. It is an effort of our nature to assimilate its physical condition to the desires of the mind. Man's natural home as an animal is on land. As an intellectual being he seeks to pass this bound, and resorting to his capacity to press the powers of external nature into the service of his desires, he spikes planks to timbers, commits himself to the waves, rocks on their crests, habituates head and foot to new duties, and, girded with the armor of his immortal part, tha* wealth of Heaven, goes forth, the image and representative of his Maker, to sec, to know, and to enjoy all things. But a truce to philosophy. We are on the sea. The elements have 24 SCENES IN THE rAClFtC. v. I i I f' i M 1 1 1 S ''■.! raved twelve days and arc at rest ngain. Quiet and variable breeies from the north push us pleasantly along; appetites re- turn ; we shave our chins, comb our hair, and begin once more to wear the general aspect of men. On the nineteenth of December our group of characters was honored by the appearance of a fine honest fellow from the Btoerage. H.' had suffered so much from sea-sickness, that he appeared a mere sack of bones. Ho was a native of one of the Southern States ; but the Yankee spirit must have been born ia him : for he had been to the Californias with a chest of carpenter's tools, in search of wealth ! Unfortunate man ! He had built the Commandante-Gcucral a house, and never was paid for it ; he had built other houses with like consequences to his purse ; had made many thousands of red cedar shingles for large prices and no pay ; and last and worst of all, had made love, for two years, to a Spanish brunette, obtained her plighted faith for marriage, and did not marry her. It was no fault of his. During the last year of his wooing, a Californian Cavaliero, that is, a pair of mustachios on horseback, had been in the habit of eating a social dish of fried beans occasionally with the father of the girl, and by the way of reciprocating his hospitality, he advanced the old gentleman to the dignity of a grafldsire. This want of fidelity in his betrothed wrought sad havoc ia our countryman's affections. He had looked with confiding tenderness on her person, returned her smilo, and given her one by one his soul's best emotions. Such affections, when they go forth and not lost, leave a void to which they never return. He was alone again without trust, with nothing on earth, or rather, on the sea, to love but his carpenter's tools. The object of his regard had disgraced herself and him. To avoid the Bcene of his misery, he had invested in horses the little money he had accumulated ; accompanied the Hudson's Bay Trading Company to Oregon, and having cultivated land a year or two in the valley of the Willamette, had Bold his stock and property, and f again Ca peopl pherc it. : mour gamt fleas whicl bliu V ■he ' hear love: a w(i T on dani The hoai sear uou the ref>j ate "A mei he moi tho nee liet and variable g; appetites re- begiu oncu mora f characters was fellow from tlie sickness, that he ve of one of the avc been born ia ;st of carpenter's He had built was paid for it ; cea to his purse ; lingles for large had made love, ed her plighted It was no fault y, a Californian jeback, had been sans occasionally reciprocating his ( the dignity of a ght sad havoc ia id with confiding ind given her one tions, when they hey never return, ling on earth, or Dols. The object 1. To avoid the the little money n's Bay Trading and a year or two ock and property, TRAVELS IN THE OALIFORNIAS, 211 r and shipped for home, with every tooth strung with curset against the Californian Spaniards. California itself, not including the bodies or souls of the people, he thoujrht to be a desirable country. The very atmos- phere was so delicious that the people went half-naked to enjoy it Hard to abandon was that air, and the great plains and mountains covered with horses, black Spanish cattle, and wild game. Tlie fried beans, too, the mussels of the shores, and the fleas even, were all objects of pleasure, utility or industry, of which he entertained a vivid recollection. Bni that loved one ! Hhe was beautiful, she was kind, alas ! too kind. Hu loved her, ahe was wavward ; but was still the unworthy keeper of his heart; stilfa golden remeu:branc-.e on the wastes of the past- lovely, but corroded and defiled. His opinion was that she was a woman : , The weather became sensibly milder each day as wo moved on our course; the water warmer, the fish and fowl more abun- dant. The latter presented themselves in considerable variety. The white and grey albatross, with their long narrow wings, and hoarse unmusical cry, cut through the air like uneasy spirits, Bearching the surrounding void for a place of rest, and finding none ! Our cook contracted a paternal regard for these birds ; the basis of which was, that whenever he threw overboard the refuse of the table, they alighted in the wake of the ship, and ate the potatoe peelings, bits of meat, &c., with a keen appetite. " Ah," said he of the spit, " it is a pleasure to cook for gentle- men in feathers even, when they eat as if they loved it." But he was still more partial to Mother Carey's chickens. In a fair morning these beautiful birds sat on the quiet sea in flocks of thousands, billing and froUicking in great apparent happi- ness. " There's your poultry, gentlemen," cried his curly pate, peering from the galley. "Handsome flocks these about the stacks of water; plumper and fatter, I'll warrant ye, *han any that ever squawked from the back of a Yorkshire Donkey. No need of cramming there to keep life agom'. r 26 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. 11 ' ;t .y throughout th« Christian world, and a „>erry one it was to us. Not so in the ordinary sense o the trencher and cup, the .nv«ic, dance, and the embracen/ kindred ; nor rendered such by the pealing anthem or the solemn rayer, swelling up through the otty arches hung with boughs of ever-green and the prophelio star o Beth- lehem! But nature herself seemed worshipping! Ihe heavens were unmarred by a single breath of mist, excep what rested upon the heights of Hawaii ; and on all its vault the stars shonl, not as brightly as in the frosty skies of the temperate zones, but with a quiet subdue, lustre, as . th y were the watch-fires of angels assembled to celebrate the earth's great jubilee. . The Pacific, too,h3nt the scene its most charming condi- tion. Wide ani UI1 be lin no be cl( th( br. CO' ou tin br( So on All brf go ro\ oai sui ri ihortened sail and of flo much social iliaii world, and a ; ordinary sense of and the embrace of lini; anthem or the lofty arches hung ihetic star of Beth- orshipping! The ith of mist, except ( and on all its vault ! frosty skies of the led lustre, as if they lied to celebrate the ost charming condi- rolled down from the 2Q they dashed upon he dolphin coursing irescent light ! The rry Christmas. The )m billow to billow, sword-shaped wings, The gulls and other f direction, sinking, ja 1 And schools o( ira by the side of the rather with cheri.-h- ^stcad on this blessed inds lay six mile dis- lear ; the sea smooth ; lit whale was spouting ians, looking from the leir beautiful language TRAVELS IN THE OAI. It'URNIAS. SK of vowels witb great volubility. Poi (the name of their Dational dish), wyhini (woman), and iri (chieQ, were the only words I then understood ; and those occurred very often in their animated dialogues. Poor fellows ! they had been five years absent from tlieir poi ; five years separated from the brown beauties of their native isles ; five years away from tlieir venerattnl sovereijfa. No wonder, the re- fore, they were charmed with the dim outline of their native land ! A mass of vapor hung along its heights and con- cealed them from view, save here and there a volcanic spire which stood out on the sky, overlooking cloud, mountain, and sea. As the light increased to full day, this cloudy mass was fringe d on the edge nearest us with delicate golden hues ; but underneath it and inward toward the cliirs, the undisturbed darkness reached far eastward, a line of night belting the mountains mid-heaven. Downward from this line to the sea, sloped red mountains of old lava, on which no vegetable life appeared. On a few little plains near the beach the cocoa-tree sent up its bare shaft ; and as the clouds broke away we disf:erned clumps of rich foliage on the heights. But generally the aspect was that of a dreary broken desert. We sailed past the western cape of Moratai, and laid our course for the southeastern part of Oahu. At two o'clock our good old ship lay becalmed under the lofty piles of ex tinct craters, six miles northeast of Honolulu. At four the breeze freshened, and bore us down abreast of the town. Soon after a boat came rapidly from the shore with a pilot on board by the name of Reynolds ; a generous, jolly old American gentleman, of long residence in the islands. He greeted his countrymen with great kindness, and having brought the ship to anchor outside the reef, invited us to go ashore in his boat. It w:is manned with islanders. They rowed to the entrance of the channel, rested on their oars while the angry swells lifted us at one instant on the summit ol tke waters and at another dropped us into the »4 SCENES !N THE FACiriC. chasm between them, till the third and largest came, when; by a quick and energetic movement, they threw the boat upon the land side of it, and shot us into the harbor with the rapidity of the wind ! We passed the American whalers which crowded the anchorage ; ran under the guns of the fort ; struck the landing at the pier ; leapeu ashore among crowds of natives, besprinkled with an occasional Eu- ropean face : followed an overgrown son of John Bull to another man's house, took a glass of wine, and scattered ourselves in various quarters for the night. Thus terminated our voyage from the Columbia river to the Kingdom of Hawaii. The distance between Oregon and these islands is about three thousand miles. We had sailed it in twenty-one days. The next morning the Vancouver entered the harbor with the land-breeze, and anchored near the pier. The " steer- age" and the Hawaiians now came on shore. The former settifcd his hat over his eyes and sought a barber's shop ; the latter repaired to t4ie town with their friends. I fol- lowed them. Whenever they met an old acquaintance they immediately embraced him, and pressed noses together at the sides. After many salutations of this kind they ar- rived at the market-place ; made a purchase o( poi ( a fer- mented paste of boiled taro) , and seated themselves with their friends around it. The poi was contained in large calabashes or gourdshells. With these in the midst they began to eat and recall the incidents of pleasure which had sweetened their early years. Their mode of conveying the poi to their mouths was quite primitive. The fore and middle fingers served in- stead of a spoon. These they inserted to the depth of the knuckles, and having raised as much as would lie upon them, and by a very dexterous whirl brought it into a globu- lar shape upon the tips, they thrust it into their mouths, and licked their fingers clean for another essay. They had been seated but a short time when others joined them, who of inc. largest came, whe*; they threw the boat nto the harbor with le American whalers der the guns of the eapeu ashore among an occasional Eu- 3on of John Bull to wine, and scattered ght. he Columbia river to ice between Oregon and miles. We had itered the harbor with e pier. The " steer- 1 shore. The former light a barber's shop ; their friends. I fol- an old acquaintance iressed noses together I of this kind they ar- urchase of poi ( a fer- ated themselves with as contained in large ess in the midst they nts of pleasure which to their mouths was (lie fingers served in- ed to the depth of the ch as would lie upon brought it into a globu- ;t it into their mouths, )ther essay. They had thers joined them, who T K A V £ L 6 IN THE CALIFORNIA » brought sad news. One of their former friends had recen died 1 On hearing this their hands dropped, and the dread- ful wail ewai burst from every mouth, as they rose and went towards the hut in which the dead body lay. It was situ- ated a short distance from the hotel ; and during the night I heard that wail ring through the silent town ! A more painful expression of sorrow I hope never to hear. The next morning I went to the burial. The wail was sus- pended during the ceremonies ; but for several succeeding nights it continued to break my slumbers. A few days after- ward I saw them gathered again near the market-place era- ployed with their poi. The wages of five years' service was nearly exhausted. They had given a large portion to the chief of their district, and spent the rest in feasting and cloth- ing their poor relatives. They were poor when I lost sight of them. But those whom they had fed were sharing their pittance with them. The most affectionate and hospitable people on earth are these Hawaiians. Our Carolinian remained a few days at Honolulu, and took passage in one of P. J. Farnham & Co.'s ships for New York. He insisted to the very last of my intercourse with him, that his Californian brunette was a woman ! Mr. Simpson took lodgings with that distinguished slice of a John Bull to which I have already referred. He em- ployed himself with much industry upon his duties of set- tling accounts with his host, who, as the agent of the Com- pany, had sold the lumber, fish, &c., exported from Oregon to these islands. After tarrying a month at Honolulu, he returned in the Vancouver to Columbia River. He was a fine fellow, full of anecdote and social feeling, talented and modest ; and I doubt not will eventually rise to the highest rank in the Compnny's service. The professor of psalmody stopped at the hotel and pre- pared to exhibit himself. His first essay was to deliver to the American Missionaries and others, certain letters which he had obtained in Oregon. His next was to awaken the 3« 8CEW1 ii» T». i p aci no. genius of music. Foi fliis puriiose he attended a number of singing parties, at \*hich he attempted to make himself useful to three young Americans, who sang with masterly taste. In the opinion of the professor they " needed a little burnishing," which he volunteered to give them. Unfortu nately for the art, however, they were vam enough to sup- pose they had V jned music before his arrival ; and did not therefore value his suggestions so highly as he himself did. But the professor persevered. His forbearance knew no limit towards the deluded tyros. On all public occasions he never failed to throw out many invaluable hints as to movement, ascent, and style generally. He even encou- raged them to hope that, with all their imperfections, they might attain a respectable degree of excellence if they would attend to his instructions. Whether or not his exer- tions were ever properly appreciated by these gentlemen is a question whch remains unsettled to this day. But the most interesting event which occurred to the professor in Hono- lulu was his interview with the sister of the young lady whom he had forsaken. She was the wife of a Missionary, a zealous servant of her Master. He called on her and was invited to remain to tea. I was present. Everything was sad as the grave ! The mercies of Heaven were im- plored upon his blighted conscience ! He left, little hap- pier for the reminisceices awakened by the visit, and soon after sailed for California. I heard of him as an ingenious man in mending a watch on shipWjd, but never as one of moral integnty or as the Napolefn of the Califormas I ! rto. attended a mimber ;d to make himself sang with masterly ey " needed a little ve them. Unfortu i?ain enough to sup- arrival ; and did nof y as he himself did. rbearance knew no dl public occasions 'aluable hints as to , He even encou- imperfections, they excellence if they theror not his exer- these gentlemen is a day. But the most } professor in Hono- of the young lady wife of a Missionary, called on her and resent. Everything )f Heaven were ira- He left, little hap- y the visit, and soon him as an ingenious , but never as one of Lhe Califoraias ! Ba du Ai trE as! cr( in so an of sti «e lo re w di CHAPTER III. Hawaiian bland*— Spaniards first visited them— Hoot ill Wjhini— Ac- count of Coolr'i Fisit— A god— A Robber and his Death- Vancouver'a Visit— Kamenameha I.- -A Treaty— Cattle— Origin of the Islands- Poetry, and another Book— Legends— Ta^i* — Philosophy of Civilization — A Way to th* End— What is Taught — Gratitude — Departure flrom the Islands — Lava and Cauldrons — Goats and Men — Passengers — Cap- tain, Mates and Crew — A Human Managerie — Northing— Variables- Ten days Out— Too nauseous for Music— Uncombed Hair — Exhila- rated — Lovely — Growing Fat — Ten Knots — Ten more days out— An Ocean Don- American and English Tars— A Squall — A new mode ot taking Eela — Land ho — Mission — Wrath — Monterey. This group of islands was first visited by a Spanish ship, during the early explorations of the northwest coast of America, by Admiral Otondo, Viscaiyno, and others. The traditions of the natives say, that a small vessel was driven ashore on the southern coast of Hawaii, that two of the crew only escaped death among the breakers, and that these intermarried with the natives and left children. I saw some descendants of these men. Their European features and the use of a few corrupted Spanish words, satisfied me of the truth of the legend and the ship's nationality. Captain Cook next visited them in 1779. The circum- stances of his visit and massacre, as given me by a very aged chieftainess, Hoopili Wyhini, will interest the reader. " Captain Cook's men were allowed to steal a canoe be- longing to our people. Our chiefs asked that it might be returned ; but Captain Cook had made us believe that he was a god, and thought to take what he pleased. Our tra- ditions asserted that gods would not rob, and we told him 38 SCENES Ilf THE PACIPIO- SO. But the canoe was not restored. Our people thought, tlierefore, that if Cook wouKl steal from ihem, it would be right to steal from him; so in the night time, they swam under water a long distance to the ships, loosened the boat from one of them, and having brought it asiiore, broke it in pieces for the nails. Cook was very mucli enraged at the loss of his boat, and threatened us with destruction if it were not returned. But it could not be ; it wiis destroyed. " A number of days passed in very angry intercourse be- tween our people and the foreigners, during which a chief suggested that so unjust a being could not be a god. But all others said he was the great Kono. This was in our days of darkness. Why do you press me to remember such unpleasant things ?" I explained that I was anxious to know the truth of the matter, and she continued : " At length Cook came on shore with an armed force, and went to the king's house to persuade him to go on b'^ard his ship. The chiefs interfered and prevented him. Cook was angry, and the people were in a great rage. He went down to the shore where his boat lay. The people gathered around hira. The chief who did not believe him a god, tried to kill Cook, but Cook killed him , and then the people who belonged to that chief, killed Cook. It thus became clear that Cook was no god ; for we thought our old gods could not die. These were our years of sin, before the Pono (Gospel) came among us ; and it is not pleasant to speak of them." This venerable chieftainess was advanced in womanhood at the time of Vancouver's visit, in 1779. She gave the following account of it : " When Vancouver arrived at Hawaii, Kamehameha was the chief of three districts on that island. These were Kona, Kohala, and Hamakua. That year he fought against the reigning king, and conquered the whole island. Kameha- meha did not see '^'ancouver at Kona, where he first ac S O a HO I 03 oo no. iir people thotight, ihem, it would be e,lheysvvain under ned the boat from ;, broke it in pieces aged at tlie loss of :tion if it were not lestroyed. gry intercourse be- ring which a chief lot be a god. But This was in our e to remember such )w the truth of the 1 an armed force, liide him to go on nd prevented him. 1 a great rage. He t lay. The people lid not believe him led him , and then , killed Cook. It d ; for we thought re our years of sin, us ; and it is not iced in womanhood 79. She gave the , Kamehameha was These were Kona, fought against the : island. Kameha- wherc he first ac too bin shi] ban Att oth( (( En[ mac Isai ■wh< *E laei To whi mis Ici( wrii But us, cou En{ TRAVELS llf THE eALirORNIAS <*«red. But a little after the time of our national holidays, which occurred in the latter part of the Christians' Decern- ber, he came to Kealukekua Bay. There I first saw him. Kamehameha also visited him at that place. The flag- sliip, brig and store-ship, appeared to be under the general command of a man whom we called Puk£ki j the captain of the store-ship we called Ilapilinu. " While this squadron remained in the bay, myself and thirteen others went aboard. They were Kamehameha, his three brothers and one sister, myself, my aunt, and two other women. The remainder were chief men. After being at sea four days, we anchored in Kealukekua Bay in which Cook was killed. "Kamehameha was very friendly to Vancouver — according to our old ruics of hospitality, he furnished him with a concu- bine. He gave me to him. I passed nine days on board his ship. Kamehameha presented to him a great many hogs and bananas, and received trifling presents of old iron in return. At the end of nine days I left the ship, in company with some other chiefs, to visit my sick brother, and did not return. " On another occasion, Kamehameha, his chiefs, and two Englishmen who had been adopted by some old chiefs and made a part of the king's counsel, named John Young and Isaac Davis, were passing the day on board the flag-ship, when Kamehameha addressed to Vancouver these words t * E nana mai ea u, eia ka aina,' which being interpreted, means, 'Look after us, and if we are injured, protect us.' To this Vancouver assented. An instrument in writing, which he said would bind his sovereign to keep the pro- mise he had made, was framed and presented to the king. I do not know whether Kamehameha understood what was written ; nor do I know whether or not the king signed it. But until the French captain. La Place, came, and abused us, we thought the English would protect us ; because Van- couver promised to do so. Kamehameha always said the English were our friends — that the islands were his, and CKNES IN THE PACIFIC. these friends would keep off all danger from abroad. It is not clear to me that they have been faithful to the words of Vancouver. " Vancouver built a lent and high tower on shore. In the former he sometimes slept. In the latter his learned men pointed bright instruments at the moon and stars. A doctor, whom we called Makaua, visited the volcano. He had sore lips when he returned. He brought down some sulohur, saltpetre, and lava. "Vancouver gave me two fathoms of red broadcloth. To th? king and chiefs he also gave some of the same. He said the king of England sent it to us. I had two husbands at this tJme. The one was Kalanimamahu, the son of Keona, and the of her Hoopili, the late governor of Maui. The first was the father of Queen Auhea ; the latter is buried among the people near the church. Those were days of darkness. " Vancouver gave to Kamehomeha four cattle, three cow3 and one bull. He said to Kamehameha,'feed them five years, and then begin to kill and eat.' They were shut up in a field several years, but broke out one after another, and went to the mountains. Very few were killed for thirty years. During the last ten, many have been slaughtered for their hides and tallow. Vancouver killed one of the calves be- fore he left us. They were brought from California. " Vancouver had an interpreter whom our people called Lehua ; and another who was a native chief in the island of Taui. This latter had nwde* a voyage in an English whale-ship, during which he had learned the language of that nation. By means of these men, he asked questions, and received answers in regard to our old ways. Once he asked ' whence came these iislands V and our chit'fs re- plied—' Hawaii is the child of the gods Papa and Wakea, and the other islands are the children of Hawaii.' " The chief priests then said Hawaii was in a very soft state immediately after birth, but a god desc jnded from the skies and called—' E Hawaii Ea, O Hawaii Oh,' and the god Haw man F I C. nger from abroa<). en faithful to the wer on shore. In latter his learned oon and stars. A the volcano. He ought down some id broadcloth. To he same. He said vo husbands at this son of Keona, and mi. The first was 1 buried among the lys of darkness, r cattle, three cow3 eed them five years, re shut up in a field other, and went to 1 for thirty years, sughfered for their e of the calvef be- n California. I our people called chief in the islanil age in an English ;d the language of le asked questions, Id ways. Once he and our chiefs re- Papa and Wakea, f Hawaii.' is in a very soft state ided from the skies Oh,' and the god TRA'EI.H IN THE CALiFORNIAg. Hawaii came forth, communicated to the pulpy land a gym- tory motion, made it come around him, and assume a per- manent form. Vancouver rei)lied, < right,' "I am sixty-five years old and must die soon." I was exceedingly interested in these conversations with this remarkable woman. She had been one of the wivos of Kamehameha the First ; had commanded his navy of war canoes, during his conquests, and was at the time of my in- terview with her the acting executive of Maui, and a scholar in the Missionary Sabbath school ! I remained three months in these beautiful islands, en- joying the revelations of these chronicler of old and curious times. The king, chiefs, foreign residents and Missionaries, perceivmg my avidity in gathering information respecting the country and its people, rendered me every aid in their power to facilitate my inquiries. Nor do I ever expect again to find a richer field of the strange, the beautiful, ths wonderful and the sublime, than was there presented to ms. The legends of a thousand generations of men, living apart from the rest of mankind, among the girding depths of the Pacific seas ; the stories of their gods and goddesses ; the tales of their wars ; the fate of bad princes whom their deities reprimanded from the skies ; th. beatification of the good on whom their divinities scattered blessings; thei. forms of government ; their religious ceremonies ; the" genealogies ; their poetry, more of it than Greece ever had and still sung by bards travelling from village to village ,' their dances; their rejoicings at a birth; their wailings over the dead, and, the solemn ceremonies of their burials ; *re a few of the interesting subjects investigated. The intense interest, as well as the amount of writino-re. quired to exhibit these matters, will furnish my best apofo-ry for passing them in this place. They may hereafter app^r m a separate volume. But I cannot allow mv readera to pass from tne Hawaiian kingdom, without presenting to their ce the interesting fact, that a hundred and seven thou- 49 ■ CENEB IN THE PAC'IFIC sjind savngps have been brought wirtiin the pale of civilira- tion and Chrislianily tlirough the inslrumenlulity of ths America lis. Twenty-five years ago a nation occupied the kingdom of Hawaii which sought its happiness from a ■ystematic viola, tion of the fundamental laws of Creation. Their food was under the tnbu, or ban ; so that the powerful in civil and religious aHairs appointed the best edibles for their own use, and made death the penalty to their wives, daughters and inferiors, if they tasted them. The fire kindled to cook the food of the men was tabued; it was death for woman to kindle hers from it, or cook or light a pipe at it. The p'lr- son of the king was tabued. It was death to touch him, or any article which he had used, or to step on his shudow, or the shadow of his house. And at the hour of midnight hu- man victims were slaughtered, and piled on scalTolHs with dogs and hogs, around the temples wliich they woaid con- secrate to their deities ! ! Here human nature had been forced from its true appe- tencies to the material and spiritual Universe. Its misery followed as an inevitable consequent. But the Hawauans were thinkers. The violated ordinances of the world recoil- ing on them at every tread of life, forced on them the thought of obedience and its blessings. And they rose in their power ; ate from the full hand of Heaven ; prostrated their ancient temples ; burned their hideous gods ; made the civil power subservient to the common good.; and restored themselves, af\er immemorial ages of degradation, to the quiet reign ot the natural laws. It is most remarkable that the American missionaries were on their voyage to the islands while these things were being done ! The law of relationship between these people and their Maker had been lost among the crude follies of idol-worship and civil tyranny. These they had broken down by a mighty blow. The fragments oftheir temples, altars and gods, were strewn over the land. An entire nation looked on the flowers^ the stars, the rivulet, the ocean, the birds and themselveSj r I r I e ihe pale of civiliza- rumcnlulity of ths Hvl the kingdom of I a ■jstematic viola. n. Their food wiis iwcrful in civil and !S for tiieir own use, ives, daughters and kindled to cook the leath for woman to ipe at it. The p'^r- aih to touch him, or 'p on his shadow, or lour of midnight hu- Bd on sculTolHs with ich they woaid cou- i from its true appe- nivorse. Its misery But the Hawaiians s of the world recoil- on them the thought ' rose in their power ; )strated their ancient made the civil power restored themselves, to the quiet reign ot lie that the American le islands while these f?se people and their bllies of idol-worship :en down by a mighty altars and gods, were looked on the flowers^ )irds and tbemselreSj Cocoa Tree of Hawaii. — P. 4& an th w] gri H( ter Its pal fac hu in . 1 reli mai the stii: mg mai aliu por exis per] diti( I hull wit! seat bles mon bboi of I leali 1 lirou ■the\ cond TRAVELS IN THE CAL F0RNIA8. 43 and believed in no God ! ! The vessel which brought to them the Christian faith anchored at Honolulu ! The event, which shook the hill, darkened the sun and opened the graves of Judea, was proclaimed, and gave its hopes of Heaven to a hundred thousand people ! A nation thus en- tered the world as its loved homestead became obedient to Its organization ; called back the wandering religious sym- pathies to the worship of the true God ; opened to every faculty the sphere of its legitimate enjoyments ; and made human nature again a component part of creation, existing in haimony with it and its Author. Man must incorporate himself into that great chain of relationship and sympathy which runs from inorganized matter to the first feeble manifestation of vegetable life, and thence upward through bud, leaf and blossom, and upward still along the grrrat range of animal existence to the think- ing and feeling principle, and thence to God. It is in this manner alone, that he can feed his faculties with their own aliment. And it is his ignorance of the dependence of each portion of his body and mind, on each and every external existence, which makes thorns for his feet and keeps up a perpetual warfare between himself and the immutable con- ditions of his true happiness. I am sincerely persuaded that the regulating principle of human culture, is to sympathize with every form of creation within our knowledge ; to enter the world as our home ; to seat ourselves at its hearth ; to eat its viands and drink its blessings; to slumber in its arms; to hear the floods of har- monious sounds which come up to us from the matter and life about us ; and to yield our being to the great dependent chain of relationship which binds God's material empire. His lealms of mind and Himself, in one sympathizing whole ! The universal requirement is, that man's nature shall be brought into harmony with creation and its Author. This is .the whole law of our being. Obedience to it is the unalterable condition of happiness ; the only true test of civilization ; the 44 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. only state in which our powers, physical and inentaV will operate harmoniously ; the only position of our existence which looks forward on the path of our destiny, wiih any cer- tainty that thought, feeling, and act, will lead to results pleasureable to ourselves and in harmony with the rest of the world. It is a want of proper reflection on this matter which has rendered abortive so many eirorts to civilize ditferent por- tions of the race. In India, in the forests of the west, in every other place, except the Hawaiian Islands, where the societies of Protestantism have made efforts to ameliorate the condi- tion of the barbarian, nearly the whole acting force has been brought to bear on the cultivation of the religious sentiments. The theory has been, make them Christians, and everything else will follow as a promised favor of Heaven. No error has cost the church more money and life than this. The savage has been taught the doctrines of salvation, and his direct relations t j the Deity. Thus far, well. But there was no corresponding teaching to the rest of his na- ture. His physical wants and the mode of supplying them, remained unchanged. All his relations to the external world continued the same. And the largest number of the strong- est desires of the mind being thus left, to contend with those which the missionaries attempted to excite and purify, it is no wonder that so little has been accomplished. In the Hawaiian Islands the missionaries found a people livino' in villages, having a property in the soil, and depend ing chiefly upon its culture for their subsistence. They also found them destitute of every kind of religion, and de- sirous of receiving one : they were a talented people and anxious for new ideas. This was a remarkable state of things. Their physical adaptation to the natural world was so far in advance of the mental, that the latter only required to be placed on an equal footing with the former, to produce the civilization and moral rectitude which they now possess. The result of missionary efforts in these islands, if well unde of 0{ ^Uysi ChAs Wi of the arem and V telli^( citize more know Thi island Strang on wl get th my mi gratefi I may whom Toi bound under canic 1 ward B rose fn vating piled a dense tuteof mass, i ted wit taro, a along I I r. and inentaV will 1 of our existence iny, wiihany cer- ill lead to results y with the rest of 5 matter which has ize ditferent por- ' the west, in every where the societies eliorate the condi- ting force has been ligious sentiments, ns, and everything leaven. >ney and life than ;trinesof salvation, hus far, well. But the rest of his na- of supplying them, ) the external world mber of the strong- contend with those ;ite and purify, it is plished. iries found a people ;he soil, and depend subsistence. They of religion, and de- alented people and emarkable state of le natural world was latter only required e former, to produce jh they now possess, hese islands, if well TRAVKI, S IN THE CALIFJRNIA8. 45 understood, may lead to some valuable changes in the modfl of operating elsewhere. It will" be learned that while the physical wants and the mode of supplying them, are op- fMed to the ordained condition, it is vain to expect the ChJstianized state. We may, meanwhile, rejoice at this single restilt. It is one of the great events of the age. Twenty thousand Hawaiiaas are members of Christian chwches. Seventy thousand read and write. The whole people are better taught, more in- telliq^ent, and farther advanced in civilization than are the citizens of the Mexican Republic. Their Government is more paternal, and administ-ered more kindly than any other known to civilized man. But I must hasten Iwmeward. The hospitality of couritrymen during my tarry in these islands, the kindness of countrymen, bestowed on me, a stranger, fleeing from my grave, and sad — away from those on whose hearts I had a right to lean — how can I ever for- get them ! While those beautiful islands have a place in my memory, they will be associated with some of the most grateful recollections of my life. It is painful to think that I may never again grasp the hands of some noble spirits, •whom I saw and loved in the kingdom of Hawaii ! To the sea ! on board the bark Don Quixote, Paty, master, bound for Upper California! We left the harbor of Honolulu, under a sweet land breeze from the forests crowning the vol- canic hills in the rear of the city, and bore away to the west- ward along the coast. The mountains of decomposing lara rose from the water side in sharp curving ridges, which, ele- vating themselves as they swept inland, lay in the interior piled above the clouds. Some of them were covered with the dense green foliage of the tropics ; and others were as desti- tute of vegetation as when they were poured, a liquid burning mass, from the cauldron of the volcanoes. Many valleys dot- ted with the hay-thatched huts of the natives, their fields of taro, and orchards of bread-fruit, cocoa and plantain, lay along the shore. 1 ne lower hills were covered with frolick- 46 80BNB8 IN THK PACIFIC. ing goats, and here and there on the projecting cliffs, stood a group of stalwart figures, brown as the rocks, shouting their pleasure at seeing our ship, with all sails steadily drawing, push through the waves. Having rounded the southwestern cape, we laid our course through the channel between Oahu and Taui, with the intention of availing ourselves of the north- ern " variables" to carry us to the American coast. In the cabin we had seven passengers ; Mr. Chamberlain, the fiscal agent of the American Missions at the islands — a man of a fine mind and unpretending goodness, who had un- dertaken the voyage for the benefit of his health — Mr. Cobb, the mate of a whaler, a plain honest man, going home to die of an injury from the falling of a spar on shipboard ; a spend- thrift of Philadelphia, returning from a two or three years' spree in the Pacific ; and a brace of Char^estown boys, who were on their way homeward for goods anc' weethearts. One of these was an excellent little fellow, wu.. «. soul full of music and justice ; the other a singer of bass and an acting agent general, in the same depu/tment. The only representa- tive of the fair sex we could boast of was a half-breed Ha- waiian lass, going to visit the '* Major," her father, an old mountaineer from New England, who was keeping a small shop at Santa Barbara, in Upper California. Captain Paty was a little man, with a quiet spirit, and a generous heart ; a New England man who always kept his eye to the windward, and gave his sails to the stoutest breeze without fear of clew lines or stays. The mate, a lusty English tar of the Greenwich school, was a jolly old boy, whose face was always charged with a smile, ready to be let off on the least occasion of conferring happiness. Our second mate was an Italian, who had left his cruntry for doubtful reasons, married an American girl in the city of New York, buried her, and was now roaming the seas in the double capacity of second mate and sliip's carpenter, for the means of educating his only child. ^ Our crew was a collection of odd-fellows. The first in r oeigh a pail when the ei all, tl and a soup extrei ency, Ind thoug respec friend and ol the gr tal an( was s. comj)I Wh tant v: moder peared logy u huntin ship st sight Whi riety o conipa push u tude b{ took ui exceed ed witl ditions mav be no. ecting cliffs, stood a Dcks, shouting their s steadily drnwing, id the southwestern nnel between Oahu rselves of the uorti.- n coast. ; Mr. Chamberlain, ns at the islands — a odness, who had un- a health — Mr. Cobb, I, going home to die hipboard ; a spend- two or three years' r^estown boys, who s am' weethearts. )w, wiu. o soul full f bass and an acting 'he only representa- is a half-breed Ha- " her father, an old '^as keeping a small nia. I quiet spirit, and a ho always kept his ^ils to the stoutest lys. The mate, a •ol, was a jolly old th a sraile, ready to iiferring happiness, ad left his crimtry an girl in the city V roaming the seas nd sliip's carpenter, Id. lows. The first in TRAVBLS IN THE CALIF ORNIAS. 47 neight and importance was « Yankee Tom ;" the second a pair of English renegadoes, from the royal navy or else- where; next came a number of old tars, who hailed from tlie earth generally; then several Hawaiians, and last of all, the cook ; as dark a piece of flesh as ever wore wool, and as independent a gentleman as ever wrestled with a soup pol. Thus we were all manned fore and aft. The extremes of cursing and prayer, of authority and subservi- ency, law, divinity, and merchandize, were there. Indeed, we had a piece of everything in the way of thought, feeling, taste and form, requisite to furnish a very respectable hur/ian menagerie. And if the shade of our friend Cuvier had leisure on his hamis to look in upon us, and observe the paws of our lions, the teeth of our tigers, the grins of our apes, the wool of our lambs, and the men- tal and physical qualities of each species, I doubt not he was satisfied with the diversity of' their powers and the comi)Ieteness of the collection. When leaving the latitude of the islands, we had a dis- tant view of the Taui. It was studded with mountains of moderate elevation, clothed with evergreen forests. It ap- peared beautiful enough to be the island of Indian Mytho- logy under the seUing sun, where the good will find eternal hunting, fishing, and women of unfading beauty. But our ship stood away under a strong breeze, and we soon lost sight of the island in the mist and shades of night. While making our northing we experienced a great va- riety of weather. On the first two or three degrees it was comparatively mild, and the generous breezes appeared to push us on with a right good will. But on reaching the lati- tude beyond the Trades, the winds from the northwest over- took us. These currents of air in the winter and spring are exceedingly rough, gusty and cold; and being often alternat- ed with the w^rra breezes from the torrid zone, produce coi>- ditions of the atmosphere, which, in more senses than one, may be termed " variables." The balmy breath of one day 48 SCENES IN THfi PACIFIC contrasts strongly with the frozen blasts of another ; the soft bright clouds from the south, with the harsh dark shadows from tlie north, and the rippling sea when the former fan» it, with the ragged waves which roll under the latter. Ten days out ; latitude thirty-eight ; wind fresh from tht northwest ; Mr. Chamberlain quite ill, but able to be on deck with his thermometer ; the Charlestown boys too sick to make music ; the Philadelphia blade's hair uncombed ; Mr. Cobb very much exhilarated with the bold movement of the ship ; the half-breed Hawaiian lass as lovely as cir- cumstances permitted ; the crew growing fat on salt beef ; the ship, making her ten knots, headed towards Cape Men- docino, and everything else in some sort of condition ; thus stood the affairs of our floating home. Ten days more passed on, and little change in these things occurred, for better or worse ; save that, when we arrived within a hundred miles of the coast, the northerly winds be- came less violent, and their temperature higher. Our old bark was as brave a Don among the waters as one would wish to see. He was of American origin, a fine model of an ocean cavalier, and did battle with the floods as fearlessly as any ship that ever doubled the Cape. Our time on board, there- fore, went off" rather agreeably; for the speed of a landsman's passage at sea is the absorbing element of its pleasures. The officers and crew had employment enough to occupy them, and were usually in that s^reeable mood of body and mind which produces a good appetite, hearty joking and sound sleeping. When the winds were stiff", they busied themselves in keeping sails, ropes, spars and masts at their appropriate duties; and when a warm sun and steady breeze came, the sailors overhauled the wormy biscuits, re- paired old sails, picked oakum, put the spun-yarn wheel in motion, while the Italian carpenter drove jack-plain, and the English mate gave us a specimen of rope-splicing and bending sails according to the rules at Greenwich. I noticed on board the Don Quixote, and elsewhere during r my wr seame Briton and ar rope b and cc hull ol devote keepin The A reads i warks, fair-da will d( such s his vei Jonath of prii he mu Ati selves coast, ingly I Att the sh: withe I ing arr below, upon t shortei ing tht per oci lies be the w! crowd( madly F I TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORN.AS. 40 of another ; the soft larsh dark shadows len the former fans der the latter, vind fresh from tht , but able to be on stown boys too sick ;'s hair uncombed ; the bold movement iss as lovely as cir- [ig fat on salt beef ; towards Cape Men- :t of condition ; thus ange in these things it, when we arrived northerly winds be- higher. Our old bark s one would wish to e model of an ocean as fearlessly as any lime on board, there- peed of a landsman's t of its pleasures. !nt enough to occupy lie mood of body and ?, hearty joking and ;re stiff, they busied rs and masts at their rm sun and steady le wormy biscuits, re- the spun-yarn wheel er drove jack-plain, imen of rope-splicing es at Greenwich, and elsewhere during my wanderings, a difference between British and Ameiicaa seamen, which I believe to be quite general. It is this. The Briton is better acquainted with the things to be done on deck and among the rigging than the American is. He splices a rope better ; he knows better how to make a ship look trim and comely. But he knows comparatively nothing about the hull of his craft. His seven years apprenticeship has been devoted to learning the best mode of sailing a vessel and keeping her in good condition. He learns nothing more. The American, on the other hand, begins at the keel, and reads up through every timber, plank and spike, to the bul- warks. And although he does all the minor labor of the fair-day deck work with less neatness and durability, yet he will do it so well, and throw his canvass on the winds with such skill and daring, as to outsail, as well as outmanage his very clever rival. The Fatherland should be proud of Jonathan. He is a rough, hard-featured lad ; and in right of primogeniture, as well as other indisputable relations, he must succeed to the paternal power over the seas. At meridian, on the 16th of April, we ascertained our- selves to be about seventy-five miles from the American coast. All were weary of the voyage. It had been exceed- ingly monotonous ; not even a storm to break its tedium. At two o'clock of this day, however, we had an incident in the shape of a squall, from the northwest. It was attended with chilling winds which fell upon us like a shower of freez- ing arrows, and drove everybody, except officers and seamen, below. The blowing, the raining, the clatter of quick feet upon deck, the cry of the sailors, " heave-a-hoy !" as they shorten sail and brace up the yards ; the heavy swells, beat- ing the ship like ponderous battering-rams ; the air, that up- per ocean, running its flood most furiously upon that which lies beneath ; our vessel riding the one as if escaping from the wrath of the other ; the upper surface of the airy seas, crowded with fleets of thunder-clouds chasing each other madly, and sending out the fire and noise of terrible conflict . 1 60 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. These are the features of that squall. Our good ship reeled and trembled under the shock of the waters and winds, as if her planks and timbers were separating. Below at such a time was doubtless our safest berth, but that was far from being peculiarly comfortable ! About h^li of the passengers were on each side of the cabin, holding at the berths ; and when the ship rose on a billow and careen- ed, it straightened those on the larboad side like lamprey- eels hanging to rocks ; while, as the surge passed on, the ship careened the othey way, making eels of those on the starboad side ! The furniture tumbled, the steward giving chase fell in the midst of it ; the Hawaiian lass attemp'ed to gain her berth and fell ; and tumult, danger, sublimity, and the ridiculous, united to provoke alternatively our laughter, fear and admiration. It cleared up in an hour, however, and we went on agviin pleasantly, under a three-knot breeze. On the evening of the 17th, we heard right gladly the cry of " Land ho !" Where away ?" " A little on tho starboard bow !" I was in the cabin at the time. Any other word spoken with a greater volume of voice would have passed unheard. But land ! land ! the solid land ! with its odor of earth and flower, is a word which, if utter- ed in a whisper, has deep music for one who has for twenty odd days been stunned by contentious waves ; a sweetness and vigor of meaning to the weary wayfarer on the seas, which must be heard, — " Land ahead." Its winged messengers already twittered in the rigging ! The shores loomed on the edge of the horizon ! The white cliffs on the north side of Monterey Bay, in Upper California, were in sight ! We kept our course towards them till daylight-down, and then beat off and on till the dawn of the following morning. A[n-il iStL The land, the glorious old land, is near us on our left — five miles away ! The cattle of the Mission Santa Cruz are grazing on the hill ! The matin bells are ringing firom its tower, and the arrowy light is routing the darknesg T r r I c. Our good ship of tlie waters unci re separating, ur safest berth, but artable ! About hull le cabin, holding at I billow and careen- side like laraprey- rge passed on, the !els of those on the the steward giving in lass attempted to nger, sublimity, and atively our laughter, an hour, however, a three-knot breeze, rd right gladly the " A little on the at the. time. Any ime of voice would d ! the solid land ! vord which, if utter- 3 who has for twenty waves ; a sweetness yfarer on the seas, jred in the rigging ! the horizon ! The ?rey Bay, in Upper course towards them i>d on till the dawn Id land, is near us on )f the Mission Santa tin bells are ringing -outing the darkness r I:"'*"' ililiiv iiliili I ill! ''''''' liiUiiijiiii;iji::ili:iiiiii"" I from tl spring A suni very p Ab near t northe flows 1 snug 1 chapel on wh Beyon into lo of pini Fro by lov grow I greeni the al pastui grisly Ab( terey. senge Thes hundr tom-h a par Califc can ei Iv\ fresh dininj ades] heart of S] TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIA 8. 51 from the Californian mountains ! A morning of the blooming spring poured down from Heaven on this Italy of America ! A sunrise on the land ; and the conquered night where it very properly may be, running wild over the seas ! A breeze from the west drove us slowly down the bay, so near the shore that we had a clear view of it. At the northeast corner of the bay is a green gorge, down which flows a small stream of pure water. Near its mouth, on a snug little plain, stands the mission of Santa Cruz, with its chapel and adobie Indian huts. Around it are some fields, on which the Indians raise grains, vegetables anid grapes. Beyond this, to the northward, the country swells away into lofty hills, covered with grass and sprinkled with copses of pine and oak. From Santa Cruz down to Monterey, the land is broken by low hills, too rough for general cultivation, upon which grow a few trees of a soft and worthless character. But the greenness of the whole surface in the spring of the year, and the absence of any abode of man, make it very appropriate pasture-ground for the wild horses, cattle, mules, and the grisly bears, lions and elk, that herd upon it. About five o'clock we round to, under the Castle of Mon- terey. The boat is lowered, the captain and part of the pas- sengers get aboard of her, and shove off for the landing. The ship meanwhile lies off and on within hail. When a hundred fathoms from the shore we are hailed by the cus- tom-house barge, and ordered back to the ship! Whereupon a parley takes place, during which we are informed that California is in a state of revolution, and that no foreigners can enter the country. I was emaciated with sea-sickness, enfeebled for want o* fresh food, and altogether so miserable at the idea of not dining that day upon Californian beans and beef, that I made a desperate effort to express in Spanish the honest rage of my heart at such treatment. But having uttered French instead of Spanish wrath, I was about correcting myself, when a 63 •CBNER IN THE PAPirrC 'enn villainoun pliysiognnmy, supported a lank, long-armed and long-shinned carcass, in lieutenant's epaulettps, replied in French, 'VM, mon frdre Franpais^^* and immediately gave orders for us to land. The boat therefore ran through the surf, grazed upon the rocks, and lay dry on the beach. T CHAPTER IV. Miither Earth— Rcvol, it ion — Aiiiorican« nml P'-ilisli in Prison— A Gauan Islands were ten leagues from Monterey ! ! ! the Californi. ans were very brave men; and that the Don Quixote had not come to anchor ! ! To each of these announcements 1 gave an unqualified assent. Having ascertained by these means that I was well- mstructed in beasts, beans, men and geography, he imme- A neci it w the and hou in doo V mat: of A Brit fain suit! drea cam oftl few midi hf.&t II soon ric. o, El (roubernador seel that he saw no J I should ever have pleasures dependei '.' was bound to do, an icter as well as an in- Excellentissimo had •e, 1 bowed assent to ily civilized opinions. 1 do otherwise 1 But f the don. He looked neasure;atmy ward- mpany's frockcoat of Its of English extrac- I ; and, shrugging his rt to be a gentleman, I with most sovereign ;e! in his adobie den ; for dance of it in all the ita^ or midday nap, on nent. The dog, which Lwakened him ; so that rolling his burly form ;ated, and having with )ear upon us, he was IS fine, and that various e ; as that his dog was romise ; the Hu A'aiian jrey ! ! '. the Californi- the Don Quixote had hese announcements I ans that I was well- 1 geography, he imme- TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORM-vS. 57 I diivtely tool: me into favor, expressed great surprise thai my friend should have thought that he could refuse my request, and assured me that it gave him infinite pleasure to write me a permission of residence. Here it is. When the reader is informed that it was an impromptu production, he will be able to estimate, in a faint degree indeed, the in- telligence and genius of the Californians. Only one hour and a quarter were consumed in bringing it forth ! Mr. Thomas J. Farnham pasagero en la barca Americana Don Qnixoti habiendama manifesta do el pasporte de su consul y queriendo quidar en tierra a (vertarblesse) en su salud le doy el presente bolito de des en barco en el puerta de Monterey 1 1 A 18 de Abril de 1840. AwTONio Ma. Ohio. A permission this to remain on shore as long as might be necessary for the restoration of my health ! Having received it with many demonstrations of regard, we took our leave of the illustrious dignitary under a running salute from his dog, and repaired to el casa del goubernador (the governor's house) . The dog accompanied us. He appeared to rejoice in our presence. After he saw us pass into the governor's door he howled piteously, and trotted off toward the prisons. We obtained from Sa Excellentissimo a written confir- mationof the alcalde's document, and returned to the house of Mr. Larkin. There we met a number of Americans and Britons, from whom we learned that their countrymen were famishing unto death in the prisons of the town ! A con- sultation, held in an upper room, in whispeis, under the dreadful ceitainty that death would be the penalty if it be- came known to the demon government, ended the labors of that day and night ! The house of my friend was but a few rods from some of the prisons, and when all was still at midnight, I could hear, between the breaking surges on the iK.ach, the prisoners cry — " Breathe fast, for God's sake ! I must come to the grate soon or \ shall suffocate !" BCENE8 IN THE PACIFIC. '« Give me water, you merciless devils ! give me water !" "You infernal sons of the Inquisition, give me drink or fire on me !" And then another voice at the grate exclaimed, " Give us something to eat ! O God, we shall die here ! We can't breathe! Half of us can't speak !" ^ ^^ And then another voice, husky and weak, said " "".Vhy !' in a tone of despairing agony, which became so low and inarticulate that I could not hear what followed. I had not seen the prisoners, but their cries banished sleep and all desire to rest. I therefore went out upon the balcony and seating myself in a dark nook watched, as well as I was able, the movements in the town. A portion of (he troops were on duty as an armed patrol. The tap of the drum and the challenge, " Quin vive V whh the reply, " Californias ;" " Quin jente ?" and the response, " Mexicanos," broke in upon their heavy, sounding tramp! About four o'clock the men in the castello, or fort, became alarmed by the cracking of dry brush in the neighboring wood, and the patrol rushed to their rescue. It proved to be the echo of their fears. The patrol soon returned to their posts, and silence p^min reigned. It was a horrid night ! Nature was laughing and bright on earth and in the sky. But fiends had gone forth to mar her beauty. The same spirit which had devastated the virtues and freedom of half the earth was abroad in the wilds of California, as of old in Chili, torturing those whose courage their bravado could not subdue, or their pretension intimidate ! The sun came up next morning most brightly in that clear blue sky of California : but it shone on sadder hearts than I had ever before seen. The flowers were creeping up along llie streets ; and the grasses, invigorated by the winter rains and the warm days of spring, were growing on the hills ; the cattle and wild animals roamed about enjoying the rich liberty which nature gave them. They possessed no qualities which could excite the wakefulness of Spanish malignity ! They were and I] blade Mr day t cells grour sever; slept eight( once, were to sus whicl them exce[ darin: some one £ theg( ed th treatf bathe Sir on. harbc that I passe himsc he w such, impre circui its hi high! duct [ TIC. give me water !" vc me drink or fire exclaimed, " Give e here ! We can't Mk,said«r/hy!'' jcarae so low and llowed. I had not lied sleep and all )n the balcony and I, as well as I was IS an armed patrol. ' Qiiin vive "?" with " and the response, y, sounding tramp! Ilo, or fort, became in the neighboring iciie. It proved to 1 soon returned to I. It was a horrid ; on earth and in the her beauty. The irtues and freedom Js of California, as mrage their bravado itimidate ! jrightly in that clear sadder hearts than I re creeping up along 1 by the winter rains ing on the hills ; the )^'ing the rich liberty ;d no qualities which h malignity ! They T n A V i; 1. 1 N r It i: c 4 1. K o li y 1 A 9. f>9 were .ouinsj; and frolicUitig out their freedom on the kind and beautiful earth. But man was raising the murderous blade against his fellow ! Mr. Larkin made arrangements with the government to- day to furnish the prisoners willi food and drink. Their cells were examined and found destitute of floors! The ground within was so wet tliat the poor fellows sunk into it several inches at every slop. On this they stood, sat and slept ! From fifty to sixty were crowded into a room eighteen or twenty feet square! They could not all sit at once, even in that vile pool, still less lie down ! The cells were so low and tight that the only way of getting air enough to sustain life, was to divide themselves into platoons, each of which in turn stood at the grate awhile to breathe ! Most of them had been in prison seven or eight days, with no food except a trifling quantity, clandestinely introduced by a few daring countrymen outside. When I arrived at the prisf)n3 some of them were frantic ; others in a stupor of exhaustion ; one appeared to be dying ! An American citizen went to the governor with a statement of their condition, and demand- ed that both Americans and Britons should be handsomely treated ; that they should have air, food, drink, permission to bathe, anddry hides wherewith to cover the mud in their cells. Since our arrival the Don Quixote had been lying ofl'and on. She usually ran out one morning and swept into the harbor the next. This circumstance, together with the fact that ihis American was always on the shore when the vessel passed the anchorage, makingsignals to her, which neither himself nor those on board understood, created the idea that he was an official of the American Government, and as such, had rights which i' would bo well to respect. This impression was much strengthened, both by the accidental circumstance of his wearing a cutlass with an eagle upon its hilt, and his holding restraints imposed on his acts as highly insulting and disrespectful ! This course of con- duct had the effect designed. Those cowardly apologies of 60 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC men became thoroughly impressed that he bore in hlJi own person the combined powers of the American Republic and the British Empire. Clothed, therefore, with authority so potent, he took measures for the relief of the prisoners. But, before entering upon the narration of these measures it will be proper to give a history of the events which led to theimprisonmentofthesemen,andtheirintended immolation. In 1836, a Mexican General by the name of Echuandra was the Commandant General of Upper California. Some years previous, as will be particularly shown in another place, he had come up from Mexico, with a band of fellow- myrmidons, and having received the submission of the coun- try to the authorities of that Republic, commenced robbing the Government for which he acted, and the several inte- rests which he had been sent to protect. Nothing escaped his mercenary clutches. The people, the missions, and the revenue were robbed indiscriminately, as opportunity offered. A few of the white population of the country par- ticipated in these acts. But generally the CaliTornians were the sufferers ; and, as is always the case with unhonored rogues, raised a perpetual storm of indignation about the dishonest deeds of those whom they desired to supplant, for the purpose of enacting the same things. An occurrence of this kind was the immediate cause of the Revolution in 1836. A vessel had cast anchor in the harbor of Monterey. Gen- eral Echuandra, not having that honorable confidence in the immaculate integrity of the custom-house officers, which thieves are accustomed to have in one another, placed a guard on board the craft, to prevent them from receiving bribes for their own exclusive benefit. To this the officers demurred ; and in order to free their territory from the creatures of one whose conscience would compel him to receive bribes for hi! own pocket instead of theirs, they sent their own clerk, a young rascal of the country, by the name of Juan Baptiste Alvaradojto inform the general that it was improper to sug- gest, by putting a gtiard on board, that the officers of the shi p which to eva Th( inaliei ner; i atlein] dream ever, ^ who SI than i San J I Nea Grahai exists < the bio with h< but kin striking been fo to the u and pre threw i he coul He beci that nol ing wil( and foo the moi keen ey ham, wl sessing gency. furnitun a vivid 1 uncultiv water n n c le bore in hif oim ican Republic and , with authority so f the prisoners, of these measures vents which led to ended inimoIaMon. tme of EchuPrndra California. Some shown in another 1 a band of fellow- lissionofthe coun- )mmenced robbing 1 the several inte- Nothing escaped the missions, and ly, as opportunity jf the country par- Cali'fornians were e with unhonored gnation about the ed to supplant, for An occurrence of evolution in 1836. f Monterey. Gen- e confidence in the se officers, which ler, placed a guard eceiving bribes for officers demurred ; 3 creatures of one ceive bribes for his their own clerk, a 3 of Juan Baptiste 8 improper to sug- officersoftheship TRAVELS IN THE CAt-IPORPJIAS. ni which lay under the fort, either intended or dared attempt to evade the payment of duties ! ! The General, however, was too well acquainted with his malienabie rights, to be wheedled out of them in this man- ner; and manifested his indignation toward the clerk, for atfempting to abtrude his plebeian presence on his golden dream, by ordering him to be put in irons. Alvarado, how- ever, escaped. He fled into the country, rallied the farmers, who still loved the descendants of Philip the Second more thnn El Prcsidentc, and formed a camp at the Mission of San Juan, thirty miles eastward from Monterey. Near this mission lived an old Tennessean by the name of Graham; a stout, sturdy backwoodsman, of a stamp which existsonlyon the frontiersof the American Stntes-men with the blood of the ancientNormans and Savons in their vein^_ with hearts as large as their bodies can hold, beating nnthin. but kindness till injustice shows its fangs, and then, lion-like striking for vengeance. This trait of natural character had been fostered in Graham by the life he had led. Early trained to the use of the rifle, he had learned to regard it as his friend and protector ; and when the season of manhood arrived, he threw It upon his shoulder and sought the wilderness, where he could enjoj' its protection and be fed by its faithful aim. He became a beaver hunter-a cavalier of the wilderness- that noble specimen of brave men who have muscles for rid- ing wild horses and warring with wild beasts, a steady brain and foot for climbing the icy precipice, a strong breast for the mountain torrent, an unrelenting trap for the beaver, a keen eye and a deadly shot for a foe. A man was this Gra- ham, who stood up boldly before his kind, conscious of pos- sessing physical and mental powers adequate to any emer- gency. He had a strong aversion to the elegant edifices, the furniture, wardrobe, and food of polished life, coupled with a vivid love of mountain sublimity, the beautiful herbage on uncultivated districts, the wild animals and the streams of water roaring down the frozen heights. Even the grey 92 SC K N K 3 IN THE P A C I F I P. deserts with the hunger and thirst incident to Xta feWme; over them, had wild and exciting charms for him. On tliese lu3 giant fruMje hud obstacles to contend with worliiy of its powers; suffering and even old Death himself to take by the throat and vanquish. These and the open air by a pro- jecting rock, with the dry sand or the green sward for a hearth and couch, a crackling pine knot fire blazing against the cliffs, and rousting a buffalo hump or the sirloin of an elk, after the day's hunt had ended, constituted the life he was fitted to enjoy. He had forced his way over the Rocky Mountams and located himself in Upper California. This country was suited to his tastes. Its climate allowed him to sleep mthe open air most of the year; an abundance of native animals covered the hills, and nature was spread out luxuriantly everywhere, in wild and untrodden freshness. As I have said, this brave man resided near the mission of San Juan. He had erected there a rude dwelling, and a dis- tillery. On the neighboring plans he herded large bands of horses, mules and cattle. To this fine old fellow Alvarado made known his peril and designs ; whereupon the foreign- ers assembled at Graham's summons, elected him their cap- tain, an Englishman by the name of Coppinger, lieutenant, and repaired to San Juan. A council was held between the clerk and the foreigners. The former promised, that if by the aid of the latter he should successfully defend himself against the acting governor, and obtain possession of the country, it should be declared independent of Mexico ; and that the law, which incapacitated foreigners from holding real estate, should be abrogated. The foreigners agreed, on these conditions, to aid Alvarado to the utmost of their power. The next morning the united forces, fifty foreigners and twenty-five Californians, marched against Monterey. They entered the town in the afternoon of the same day, and took up their position in the woods, one hundred rods in the rear of the castello or fort. No event of importance mouth surf, a tliey V fir the Gra enemi sessioi It is to cat CO crazy twent; the re; ing o\ scare mornii their 1 Ab of thei fornia deep, som o: commi crushe Thus Old of the the SI broad- his lai heldh amon^ Dinuni I p. totrtt/elliuiTover im. On tliese liia ilh worthy of its mself to take by open air by a pro- reen sward for a re blazing against ■ the sirloin of an itiluted the life he :y Mountains and This country was lim to sleep in the ; of native animals id out luxuriantly mess. near the mission of welling, and a dis- rded large bands of Id fellow Alvarado eupon the foreigii- cted him their cap- ipinger, lieutenant, is held between the )romised, that if by uUy defend himself n possession of the 2nt of Mexico; and gners from holding jreigners agreed, on he utmost of their irces, fifty foreigners igainst Monterey, on of the same day, one hundred rods in event of importance TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORtflAS. 63 occurred till the night came on, when the awe with which darkness sonieliines inspires evm the bruvt-st minds, fell with such overwiielming power on the valorous giurisou, that notwiihslanding they were supported by the ojien mouths of the guns, the barking of their dog, the roar of the Burf, and the liootmg of an owl on n neighboring tree -top, they were absolutely compelled to forsake the ramparts, for the more certain protection of unmolested flight! Graham and his men perceiving the discomforture of their enemies, availed themselves of their absence by taking pos- session of the evacuated fort. Alvarado, meantime, actuated, It is to be presumed, by a desire to save life and a philosophi- cal conviction of the dangers incident to bullets rendered crazy by burning powder, restrained the fiery ardor of his twenty-five Californians, and held his own person beyond the reach of harm, in case some lui kless horse or cow stray- ing over hostile ground on that memorable night, should scare the fleeing garrison into an act of defence. The next morning he and his brave men were found peering from their hiding-places in a state of great anxiety and alarm ! A battle had almost been begun in Monterey ! The blood of their enemies had almost begun to fatten the soil of Csd- fornia ! They themselves had nearly stepped in blood knee deep, among the carcasses of the hated Mexicans ; the be- som of destruction had shaken itself, and had barely missed commencing the havoc of bone and flesh, which would have crushed every mote of Mexican life within their borders ! Thus they gloried among the bushes ! ! Old Graham stood at sunrise on the earth embankments of the Castello. A hunting shirt of buckskin, and pants of the same material, covered his giant frame ; a slouched broad-brimmed hat hung aroand his head, and half covered his large, quiet, determined face ! In his right hand he held his rifle, the tried companion of many fearful strifes among the savages ! Four or five of his men sat on a dis- mounted thirty-two pounder, querying whether tbey conld 64 BCKNEB IN THE PACIFIC, icpair its woodwork so as td bring it to bear on the P.esi.lo or government house. Others stood by a bucket ot water, swabbing out their ritle barrels, and cleaning and drying the locks. Others of them were cooking beef; others whittling, swearing, and chewing tobacco. About nine o'clock flags of truce began their onerous duties. Alvarado came from the woods and took part in the councils. The insurgents demanded the surrender of the Gov- ernment ; whereat the cavaliers of the Presido considered themselves immeasurably insulted. Two days were passed in this parleying without advancing ihcintercstsof eitherparty. They were days big with the fate of the future ; and who could weary under their dreadful burthens 1 Not such men as Alvarado. He bore himself like the man he was, through all the trying period. He uniformly preferred delay to fight- ing ! He was sustained in this preference by his right hand villain. Captain Jose Castro. Indeed, it was the unanimous choice of the whole Californian division of the insurgent forces, to wit, the twenty-five before mentioned, to massacre time instead of men. For not a single one of them manifested the slightest impatience orinsubordination under the delay- a fact which perhaps demonstrates the perfection of military discipline in California ! The foreigners differed from their illustrious allies. Graham thought " two days and two nights a waitin' on them baors* was enough." Accordingly, taking the responsibility on himself, after the manner of his distin- guished fellow-statesman, he sent a flag to the Presido with notice that two hours only would be given the Governor and his officers to surrender themselves prisoners of war. The demand of the old Tennessean, however, was disre- garded. The appointed time passed without the surrender. Forbearance was at an end. The lieutenant of Graham's rifle corps was ordered to level a four pound brass piece at the Presido. A ball was sent through its tiled roof, imme- diately over the heads of the Mexican magnates ! ♦ Bears. It is with hi Nosooi valiant would I against govern I pect foi rus Jim shattert rendere of gove The en clerk ! dra wai good se you, wt monstn and his their fi\ longer, the dist days ! fornian The NewB ped to proclai himself It sufliic varado the stai tion. rey wit fnr mo uncle I F I C. lear on the P.esiilo a bucket ot water, eaning and drying king beef; otliers :o. egan their onerous and took part in the urrender of the Gov- Presido considered days were passed in irestsofeitherparty. le future ; and who ns 1 Not such men nan he was, through 'erred delay to fight- ce by his right hand t was the unanimous on of the insurgent ntioned, to massacre ; of thera manifested 3n under the delay— lerfection of military irs differed from their ) days and two nights Accordingly, taking manner of his distin- ig to the Preside with given the Governor es prisoners of war. however, was disre- /•ithout the surrender, iitenant of Graham's pound brass piece at I its tiled roof, imme- 1 magnates I TRAVELS IN THE CALirORNIAS. 66 It is wonderful how small a portion of necessity miagled with human alfairswill quicken men's perceptions of duly. Nosoonerdid the broken tiles rattle around the heads of these valiant warriors, than they became suddenly convinced that it would be exceedingly iiazardous to continue their resistance against such au overwiielming force ; and that the cen'rai government at Mexico would not be so unreasonable as to ex* pect four or tive hundred troops to hold out against Los Rifle- ros Americanos. This view of the case, taken through the shattered roof of the Presidio, was conclusive. They sur- rendered at discretion ! Alvarado marched into the citadel of government ! The Mexican troops laid down their arms ! The emblems of office were transferred to the custom-house clerk ! When these things had transpired, General Echuan- dra was pleased to say to Alvarado with the most exalted good sense, " had we known that we were thrice as many as you, we should not have surrendered so soon ;" thereby de- monstrating to the future historian del Alta California that he and his friends would either have fought the seventy-five with their five hundred or protracted the siege of bravado much longer, had they been able to count the said seventy-five at the distance or five hundred yards, during the lapse of two days I Difficulties in the use of optics often occur in Cali- fornian warfare which are not treated of in the books. The end of this revolution came ! The schooner Clarion of New Bedford was purchased, and the Mexican officers ship- ped to San Bias. Juan Baptiste Alvarado customs' clerk proclaimed El Alta California an independent republic, and himself its govenor. But more of this on a subsequent page. It suffices my present purpose to have shown how far this Al- varado was indebted to the foreigners dying in his prisons for the station and power which he was using for their desruc- tion. He could never have obtained possession of Monte- rey without them. And had they not slept on their rides fnr months after that event^ a party in the south under his uncle Don Carlos Carrillo, or another in the north under his 66 • CENEt IK THE PACIftC. uncle Oimdalovipe Viojo, vtou\d have torn him from his ill- goltfn elevation. Thus upper California became nn independent state, and Alvarado its governor. The central povornmentut Mexico was of course much shocked nt such unpolished, ungloved impudence ; threatened much, and at last in September, 1837, induced Alvarado to buy a ship, send despatches to Mexico, and beconu! El Gonbcrnador Const it iiHonel del Mia California^ associated with his uncle Viejo, as Commandnnte General. After this adhesion to the Mexican fJovernment, Alvarado Ix'came suspicious of the foreigners who had aided him in the " Revolution," and sought every means of an- noying them. Tliey might depose him as they had done Echuandra. And if vengeance were always a certain conse- quent of injustice, he reasoned well. The vagabond had promised, in the day of his need, to bestow lands on those who had saved his neck and raised him to power. This ho found convenient to forget. Like Spaniards of all ages and countries, after having been well served by his friends, he rewarded them with the most heartlsss ingratitude. Graham in particular was closely watched. A bold open- handed man, never concealing for an instant either his love or hatred, biit with the frankness and generosity of those great souls, rough-hewn but majestically honest, who be- long to the valley States, he told the Governor his sins from time to time, and demanded in the authorative tone of an elder and affectionate brother, that he should redeem his pledges. The good old man did not remember that a Span- iard would have lost his nationality had he done so. A Spaniard tell the truth ! A Spaniard ever grateful for ser- vices rendered him ! He should have knocked at the tombs of Columbus and Cortes, and every other man who ever served that contemptil)le race. He would have learned the truth, and gathered wisdom from it. He asked for justice ind received what we shall presently see. Graham loved a horse, lie had taken a fine gelding with liim wh tlie tiu-l tu the c bis nob dark fa uneasy to rcqui them, a est debt A not cansaru the deal for fore Castro ■ Americf boine b; not woe sailor, a Such ripen th of baflle the fear the livei bitterest breath o the litth VNorthies 'J'heir pi cocted ii Since had bee vastly tl the begi to get 01 must be challeng r tc . rn him from his ill- ppnclont state, and ornmciit at Mexico )olished, ungloved last in Si'ptembcr, send desjmtchcs to nstUntionel del ^^lla o, as Commandnnte xicanfinvcrnmont, ners who luul iiidod very means of an- i as they had done 'ays a certain conse- riie vagabond liad tow lands on those to power. This ho iards of all ages and 1 by his friends, he ingratitude, hed. A bold opcn- istant either his love generosity of those ly honest, who be- )vernor his sins from lorative tone of an should redeem his Tiemher that a Span- ad he done so. A ver grateful for ser- nocked at the tombs her man who ever uld have learned the le asked for justice ;ee. n a fine gelding with TRAVELH IN THE CALIFORNIA 8. 67 him when he emigrated to (ho country, and trained him for llie tiuf. Kvery year lie had cliallenged the whole country to tlie course, and as often won ev«'rylhiiig wagered against his noide steed. Jose Cusiro, a villain with a lean i)ody, dark face, black iiiustachios, pointed nose, flabby cheeks, uneasy eyes, and hands and heart so foul as instinclively to recpiire a Spanish cloak, in all sorts of weaiher, to cover theiu, and his Kxcellentissimo w(!re among (Jralmin's heavi- est debtors, lieliold the reasons of their enmity. Another cause of the general fieelings against the Ameri- cans and Ihitons in ('alifornia was the fact that the Scnoritas, the dear ladies, in the plenitude of their lasK^ and sympathy for foreigners, preferred them as husbands. Hence Jose Ciistro was heard to declare a little before the arrest of the Americans and Britons, thiit such indignities could not be borne by Castilian l)lood ; " for a Calilornian Cavaliero can- not woo a Scnorita if opposed in his suit by an American sailor, and these heretics must be cleared from the land." Such were the causes operating to arouse the wrath and ripen the patriotism of the Californians. The vengeance of baflled gallantry bit at the ear of Captain Jose Castro ; the fear of being brought to justice by Graham, tugged at the liver of Alvarado ; and love the keenest, and hate the bitterest, in a soul the smallest that was ever entitled to the breath of life, burnished the little black eyes and inflamed the little thin nose of one Corporal Pinto. These were the \sorthies who projected the onslaught on the foreigners. 'I'heir plan of operation was the shrewdest one ever con- cocted in California. Since the '< Revolution" of '36 the Californian Spaniards had been convinced that the Americans and Britons were vastly their superiors in courage and skill in war. From the beginning, therefore, it was apparent that if they were to get one or two hundred of these uien into their power, it must be done by stratagem. Accordingly, Graham's annual challenge for the spring races in 18-10, was conveniently con- %9 SCENES IN THE P A t; I F I n Btfued into a disguised attempt to gather his friends for the purpose of overthrowing Alvarado's Government. This sag gestion was made to the minor leading interests, civil and military, and a Junto was formed for the safety of the State ; :g-- itjs, Joiiatlian Mirayno, William W^ceks, Jonathan Coppm- gt.r, William Hants, Charles Brown, Thomas Toiplison, Richard Westlake, James Peace, Robert McCallister, Tho- mas Bowen, Elisha Perry, Natiian Daily, Robert Livermore, William Gulenack, Jonathan Marsh, Peter Storm, Job Dye, William Smith, Jonathan VVarner, and two Frenchmen. Those from Santa Cru/, were, William Thompson, James Burnes, F. Eagle, Henry Knight, Jonathan Lucas, George Chapel, Henry Cooper, Jonathan Herven, James Lowyado, Francisco, LuGrace, Michael Lodge, Josiah Whitehouse, Robert King. From Nativada, Graham's neighborhood, were, Isaac Graham, Daniel GofT, William Burton, Jonathan Smith, and Henry Niel. Those residents at Selenias, were, W^illiam Chard, James O'Brien, William Bronda, William Malthas, Thomas Cole, Thomas Lewis, William Ware, and James Majniis. In Monterey, were, Leonard Carmichael, Edward Wat- son, Andrew Watson, Henry McVicker, H. Hathaway, Henry Bee, William Trevavan, Jonathan May nard, William Henderson, James Meadows, Jonathan Higgins, Mark West, George Kenlock, Jcremiali Jones, Jonathan Chamberlainj Daniel , Joseph Bowles, James Kelley, James Fair- well, W^alter Adams, Mr. Horton, Jnmes Atterville, Mr. 70 SCENES IN THE PACIPtC Jones, Jonathan Christian, William Chay, William Dickey, Charles Williams, Alvan Willson. CHAPTER V. THE PRIS0NRE8. Forty-one of the prisoners whose names appear on the concluding pages of the last Chapter, furnished me with written accounts of their arrest, and subsequent treatment. Believing that the reader will be more interested in these, than in any abstract that could be made of them, I will trans- cribe a few which best illustrate this barbarous persecution. " I, Isaac Graham, a citizen of the United States of Ame- rica, came across the continent to California, with a pass- port from the Mexican authorities of Chihuahua, and ob- tained from the General commanding in Upper California, a license to run a distillery in that country, for the term of eight years ; this business I have followed since that time. " On the sixth of April last (1840) there appeared to be mischief brewing. But what it would prove to be, none of us could tell. The Californian Spaniards travelled ijsually much about the country ; and conversed with the foreigners rather shyly. Thoy had threatened to drive us out of Califor- nia several times ; and we tried to guess whether they were at last preparing to accomplish it. But from what we saw it was impossible to form a satisfactory conclusion. " v^n the same day, however, Jose Castro, Bicenta Con- trine, Ankel Castro, and a runaway Botany Bay English con- vict, by the name of Garner, a vile fellow, and an enemy ol mine, because the foreigners would not elect him their cap- tain, passed and repassed my house several times, andcon< versed tro^ an was g( Viego, of the f I knev Castro partly ( "Al called c came ra of sonu ceived c Californ ed that the busi or in wl same thr it resulte words |)i the truti partner, ton, as t "We mg, wht my heac about m direction pistols, s Fortunat ards pre\ shots too " Af((" reloading tols that with, and I c TRAVELS IN THE CALITORNIAS. 71 William Dick*;, les appear on the urnished me with equent treatment, nterested in these, them, I will trans- »arous persecution, ted States of Ame- jrnia, with a pass- hihuahua, and ob- Upper California, ry, for the term of ed since that time, ere appeared to be •ove to be, none of Is travelled usually with the foreigners veusout of Califor- whether they were from what we saw conclusion, istro, Bicenta Con- ly Bay English con- w, and an enemy ol elect him their cap- sral times, and con- versed together in low tones of voice. I stopped Jose Cas- tro, and asked him what was the matter. He replied that he was going to march against the Commandante General Viego, at San Francisco, to depose him from the command of the forces. His two companions made tiie same assertion. 1 knew that Alvarado was afraid of Viego, and that Jose Castro was ambitious for his place ; and for these reasons, I partly concluded that they spoke the truth. " A little later in the day, however, the vagabond Garner called at my house, and having drunk freely of whisky be- came rather boisterous, and said significantly, that the time of some people would be short; that Jose Castro had re- ceived orders from the governor to drive the foreigners out of California, ortodispose of them in some other way. He boast- ed that he himself should have a pleasant participation in the business. I could not persuade him to inform me when or in what manner this was to take place. I had heard the same threat made a number of times within the past year, but it resulted in nothing. Believing, therefore, that Garner's words proceeded from the whisky he had dmnk, rather than the truth, I left him in the yard, and in c-mpany with my partner, Mr. Niel, went to bed. Messrs. Morris and Bar- ton, as usual, took to their couches in the still-houM'. " We slept quietly, until about three o'clock in tjie morn- ing, when I was awakened by the discharge of a pistol near my head, the ball of which passed through the handkerchief about my neck. I sprang to my feet, and jumped in the direction of the villains, when they discharged six other pistols, so near me that my shirt took fire in several places. Fortunately, the diukness and the trepidation of the cow- ards prevented their taking good aim ; for only one of their shots took effect, and that in my left arm. '^ After firing they fell back a few paces and commenced reloading ttieir pieces, I perceive by the light of their pis- tols that they were too numerous for a single man to contend with, and deteunined to escape. But I had scarcely got six 72 BCENKS IN THK PACIFIC, paces from the door wlien I was overtaken and assailed with heavy blows from their swords. These I succeeded in parry- ing oir to such un extent that I was not nmch injured by thein. Being incensed at last by my successful resistance, they grappled with me, and threw me down, when an ensign by the name of Joaquin Torres drew his (hrk, and saying with an oath that he would let out my life, made a thrust at my heart. God saved me again. The weapon passing be- tween my body and left arm, sunk deep in the ground ! and before he had an opportunity of repeating his blow they dragged me up the hill in the rear of my house, where Jose Castro was standing. They called to h^m, ' Here he is! here he is !' whereupon Castro rode up and struck me with the back of his sword over the head so severely as to bring me to the ground ; and then ordered four balls to be put through me. But this was prevented by a faithful Indian in my service, who threw himself on me, declaring that he would receive the balls in his own heart I "Unwilling to be thwarted, however, in their design to de- stroy me, they next fastened a rope to one of my arms, and passed it to a man on horseback, who wound it firmly around the horn of his saddle. Then the rest of them, taking hold of the other arm, endeavored to haul myshovdders out of joint ! But the rope broke. Thinking the scoundrels bent on killing me in some way, I beg^red for liberty to commend my soul to God. To this they replied, ' You shall never pray till you kneel over your grave.' They then conducted me to my house and permitted me to put on my pantaloons. While there they asked where Mr. Morris was. I told them I did not know. They then put their lances to my breast and told me to call him or die. I answered that he had made his es- cape. While I was saying this, Mr. Niel came to the house, pale from loss of blood and vomiting terribly. He had had a lance thrust through his thigh, and a deep wound in his leg, which nearly separated the cord of the heel. "They next put Mr. Niel and myself in double irons, car- F I C, 1 and assailed with ucceeded in i)iiny- L imicli injured by xesslul resistance, m, when an ensign i dirk, and sajing fe,niade a thrust at .veapon passing be- in the ground ! and ting his blow they house, where Jose h-m, ' Here he is ! ind struck me with severely as to bring 3ur balls to be put )y a faithful Indian e, declaring that he t! in their design to de- me of my arms, and lund it firmly around them, taking hold of Didders out of joint ! idrelsbenton killing :ommend my soul to I never pray till you ;onducted me to my pantaloons. While . I told them I did to my breast and told it he had made his es- iel came to the house, rrihly. He had had a I deep wound in his if the heel, f in double irons, car- TRAVELS IN THE C A I, t K O i; N A 9. 73 ried us half a mile into the plain, left us under guard, and returned to plunder the house. After having been absent & short time, they came and conducted us back to our rifled home. As soon as we arrived there, a man by the name of Manuel Larias approached me with a drawn sword, ind commanded me to inform him where my money was buried. I told him I had none. He cursed me and turn- ed away. I had some deposited in the ground, but I de- termined they should never enjoy it. After having robbed me of my books and papers, which were all the evidence I liad that these very scoundrels and others were largely in- debted to me, and having taken whatever was valuable on my premises, and distributed it among themselves, they proceeded to take an inventory of what was left, as if it were the whole of my property ; and then put me on horseback and sent me to this prison. You know the rest. I am chained like a dog, and suffer like one." Mr. Albert F. Morris, whose name appears in Graham's account of his arrest, gives me some farther particulars. It may be well here to say, that this Morris was a British subject, a descendant of the former Surveyor-General of Nova Scotia or New Brunswick. Having strayed from friends and home, he found himself in California destitute of tlu,' means of liveli- hood. In this state of want he hired himself to Graham as a laborer in his distillery ; and was living on his pr(vmises in that capacity at the time of the events just related. *' On the night of the sixth of April, 1840, when we were about going to bed, two persons arrived who asked for lodgings. Mr. Graham told them they might find quarters with us in the distillery. They dismounted and took bed with me and Mr. Barton ; and Messrs. Graham and his partner Neil took their bed in the house, about thirty yards distant from us. " Nothing occurred to disturb us until about three o'clock in the morning, when, being awakened by aloud knocking at the distillery door, I sprang out of my bed, and asked who 74 flCBNEB IN "HE PACIPIC. was there ? No answer being returned, I repeated the ques- tion in a stern voice, when a man outside replied, ' Nicholas Alviso.' He being a near neighbor I answered, * very well,' and told one of those present to light a candle, fiut while this was being done, a number of people outside called out, ' Where is Graham ? Tear the devil in pieces !' and imme- diately afterward rushed with great violence against the door. I told them to wait a moment, but they cried out with still greater clamor for Graham, and seemed to rush toward the house where he slept. Quite a number, however, remained at the distillery, beating at the door in a savage manner and threatening death to the inmates. I drew my pistols, and at that instant Nicholas Alviso called aloud for all hands to beat down the door. On they came against it; I fired; and they returned the fire and wounded me in the left side. I then seized my rifle and snapped it at them ; they retreated, and I escaped into the swamp in the rear of Graham's hcusc. After concealing myself among the bushes, I saw fifteen or twenty men with drawn swords making most deadly blows at Messrs. Graham and Neil. I heard Ankel Castro give orders to hew them down ; Garner urged them to do the same. '* I remained in the swamp till late the next night, when I walked eight miles to the farm of Mr. Littlejohn, where I remained two days. Then, with an Indian to guide me, I rode to the mission of Santa Cruz on the north side of Monterey Bay. Here I called at the houses of Messrs. Dye and Young ; told them what had hoppened, and went up among the hills for safety. " On the sixteenth, Francisco Young came to me and said, that Captain Burlinen had come after me with a company of riflemen. He assured me that I should not be put to death or manacled if I surrendered myself without resistance. I con- cluded after some hesitation to do so, and followed him down to Mr. Dye's distillery. There I found Captain Burlinen, with eleven Californians, armed with the rifles which they bad taken from the Britons and Americans. After obtaining a IC. ppeated the qnei- eplied, ' Nicholas ered, * very well,' ndle. But while utside called out, eces !' and irame- against the door. ried out with still [> rush toward the owever, remained ivage manner and my pistols, and at jrall hands to beat I fired ; and they left side. I then ;hey retreated, and Graham's hcusc. shes, I saw fifteen most deadly blows Ankel Castro give hem to do the same. e next night, when . Littlejohn, where ndian to guide me, 1 the north side of ises of Messrs. Dye 3ned, and went up ame to me and said, ! with a company of 3t be put to death or resistance. I con- followed him down ptain BuTlinen, with les which they had After obtaining a TRATELB IN THE C A L ( V R N 1 A » . 79 promise from the captain that my life should not be taken and that I should not be pat in irons or otherwise bound, I delivered my rifle to him and became his prisoner. I was then marched down to the Mission of Santa Cruz between the soldiers, and put under guard until the next morning. " Soon after sunrise on the seventeenth they began pre- parations for taking me to Monterey. I had, when escap- ing from Graham's premises, left most of my clothing, and not knowing in what this affair might end, I desired the captain to take me by that route. To this he consented. But it was of no service to me ; for I found both my port- manteaus broken open and all my clothing stolen. Mr. Niel was in the house. He hud been badly wounded in the af- fray of the sixth. A lance li. d been thrust through his thigh, and a deep sabre cut inflicted upon the leg. He told me that the Botany Bay Garner did it. I saw several balls sticking in the walls of the bedroom in which Mr. Niel lay. The lloor was much stained with blood. The pre- mises had been plundered. We stayed at Graham's house an hour, and proceeded towards Monterey. "I arrived in town the next day. It was occupied by sol- diers, and the prisons filled with foreigners. They immedi- ately put me in double-irons, and carried me before a body of men who pretended to act as a court of justice. I desired that Mr. Spence, the alcalde, might be sent for as an inter- preter. But they would not allow it. They said I must be content with the one they had provided. His name was Nariago. He was by no means capable of the task. But I was compelled to take him or none, and go into the exami- nation. I was sworn ; and then the interpreter said it was well known that I had been writing letters against the gov- ernment. I asked him to produce the letters, that I might see them. He replied, ' that it is not necessary.' He then said that Mr. Graham was at the head of an attempted revo- lutionary movement against the government, and that I knew something about it. I replied that I had never heard 76 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC Mr. Graham suggest anything of the kind. I said that he had expressed a determination to represent to the governor the shameful treatment of Mr. Hifrgins; and the outrage upon the foreigners while they were hiirj ing their duntry- nien at Santa Barbara ; and particularly the monstrous deed of digging him up after burial, and leaving his corpse naked above ground. I confessed I had offered to go with him to the governor for that purpose. "The interpreter then asked why I fired on the people at Graham's distillery. I answered that I did it in self defence. He inquired how that couhl be. I told him, as it was impos- sible for me in the night time to see those who made the as- sault on the distillery, I could not know whether they were the authorized agents of the government, or robbers whom it was my duty to resist. My life was at stake, and I fought for it, as they would have done under like circumstunces. It was next asked why I did not seek redress from the govern- ment, if I supposed them robbers. I said that I had no time to do so between their attempts to kill me and my own neces- sary acts to prevent them ; and that if I had hud opportunity I had no assurance, under the circumstances, that govern- ment would protect me. This last answer was translated with some embellishments; and the interpreterinformed me it was considered highly insulting to the governor. I answered that no insult was intended, but that I was under oath, and could not vary from the truth. I was then asked why I fled to Santa Cruz. My reply was that I had lost all confidence in the justice of the government, and flew to the wilderness for protection. At this the alcalde was greatly incensed, or- dered my answers to be reduced to writing, and commanded me to affix my name to them, together with the additions which their desire for an excuse to destroy me induced (hem to append. I stated that I did not suppose myself obliged to place my signature to an instrument written in a lan- guage which I could not read. I signed it with swords over my head. Wha^ the paper contained I never knew. I said that he ) the governor ul the outrage their cuntry- nonstrous deed s corpse naked go with him to n the people at in self- defence. IS it was inipos- lio made the as- lither they were robbers whom it ;e, and I fought cumstuiices. It rom the govern- at I had no time i my own neces- had opportunity es, that govern- s translated with formed me it was I answered that r oath, and could ;cl why I fled to all confidence in ,0 the wilderness itly incensed, or- , and commanded ,'ith the additions me induced thera se myself obliged written in a lan- d it with swords d I never knew. m ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 !f "^ IM ==: 15^ 112 m^^ 1^ I 2.2 I.I 1.8 1.25 C/j 1.4 1.6 6" - ► V] <^ /# / :^ % Photographic Sciences Corporation f\ #v V •NJ \\ % V >A O^ '^ "% 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 W.. . CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques V TRAVELS IN THE CALIF0RN1A8 77 They would not allow me to attempt to read it. The ex- amination being ended, they took me to the fort and placed me under a strong guard for the night. The next day, the nineteenth of April, they manhed me under escort of a company of infantry into the public green, before the gov- ernment house, to hear prayers. After which, I have no doubt, they intended to shoot me, but were prevented from doing it through the fear of Mr. ." I have other interesting narratives showing the most in- human conduct in the Governor of Upper California, while urresting these Americans and Britons, which I must pass for want of space. There is one, however, that refers more especially to the causes which brought many of them into a country where they were subject to such merciless usage, tliat I cannot prevail on myself to omit. It is a saying among seamen that when a ship doubles Cape Horn " the rope's end and shackles are the Old Man's argument." Sailors in those seas are often glad even to escape from a bloody deck to the chances of dungeons and rapiers in the Californias. « I left the American ship Hope, of Philadelphia, in Ma- nilla, and there being no chance of getting a passage to the United States from that place, I went passenger to Macao, in the ship Rasselas, of Boston, commanded by Captain •*••••. O 1 my arrival there, all his crew having left him, Captain «*«»«* ^sked me to ship on board his vessel for a voyage. I and some others agreed to do so on these conditions : that if after serving one month, while the ship lay in that port, we did not like it, we were to be at liberty to leave her. When the month was up we all requested to go on shore. But he said all might go except William W^arren, Robert MtAlister, and myself. We were accordingly detained on board. No boat from the shore was allowed to come alongsiiJefor fear we should escape. After a short time the ship proceeded on her voyage to Kamschatka. And in this way were wc forced to go without signing- articles, and contrary to our agreeraenU 7R SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. One day when my watch was at work on deck the captain came along and said I was not sewii>g the sail right ; ard I said I thougiit I was; wlien lie kicked me over the eye with a large heavy shoe he had on at the time. And when the pain made me start to n»y feet, with the blood running down my face, he said that I wanted to kill iiim with a knife, and im- mediately had me put (hands and feet) in irons, I remained so for half an hour; when the captain, ordering me to be tied lip to the main-rigging, and taking his knife from his pocket, cut the shirt off my back, and gave mc two dozen lashes with his own hand. Afier this 1 was taktMi down and thrown in the longboat among the hogs, and fed on bread and water for a fortnight. In this situation I sulfered very much. Fori was ironed hand and foot, the weather was extremely cold, and I was without shirt, shoes and stockings. At the end ol the two weeks the ship arrived in port, and I was taken out of the longboat. My feet, too, were stripped of their fetters ; they were swelled so much that it was with difficulty I could walk. I was kept manacled at the wrists till the ship had got underway out of the harbor. After she had passed the fort the captain ordered a boat lowered and sent me ashore on a barren piiice, where it was impossible for me to go to the settlement without a boat, and left me with the irons on my h;inds. In this situation I spent two days and nights on the beach without food or water, when I was picked up by a man who gave me a passage in a canoe to the settlement. Here 1 held to work hard for my victuals. After nine months the schooner Clementine, of New York, arrived, and I asked Captain to take me out of the country, but he refused. I then went to Oholsk, thinking to go overland to St. Peters- burg ; finding a vessel there from the States, however, I wanted to ship in her, but was detained by the Russian government, and forced to work for the Russian American Fur Company the two following years. After having been forced to bear the rigors of two Siberian winters, without much ciothing, and to serve as a slave for two and a half years. T c. deck tlie captain sail right ; ard I ver the eye with a ind \vl>en the pain running down my ha knife, and im- irons. I remained (jring me to be tied fe from his pocket, ) dozen lashes with )\vn and thrown in bread and water for very much. For I ,'as extremely cold, :ings. At the end oi find I was taken out iped of their fetters; ith diificulty I could ists till the ship had r she had passed the nd sent me ashore on e for me to go to the with the irons on my iys and nights on the ts picked up by a man e settlement. Here 1 fter nine months the arrived, and I asked lunivy, but he refused. )verland to St. Peters- le States, however, 1 ained by the Russian the Russian American rs. After having been erian winters, without or two and a half years, TRAVELS IN THE C A I- I F O R W I A S I got a passage to Sitka, Northwest America, where, afttif five months' working for the Russians, I was permitted to go away in the brig Baicalund was disciiarged in San Francisco. " John Warneu, of Scotland." The next event in this poor fellow's life was his impri- sonment in California. His sufferings there were scarcely less than those he had endured elsewhere. The names of his companions at Macao appear in the list of prisoners which was given in the previous chapter. The 19th was an exciting day. More of my countrymen and others, allied by the blood of a common ancestry, were arriving from the interior in irons. As soon as they came in town they were taken in front of the prisons, pulled vio- 1 ntly from their horses by Indians, and frequently much bruised by the fall. Their tormentors then searched them, took forcible possession of their money, knives, flints, steels, and every other little v;duable about their persons, and thrust them into prison. About eleven o'clock, A. M., '.!ie American called on the governor to learn the cause of this treatment, and was informed that there had been considera- ble conversation among the prisoners for months past, about " being abused by the government," and that threats had been made about " going to the governor for justice," and other things of that kind, which rendered ti necessary for the peace of the country to get them out of it, or into their graves. The American replied, that the treaty stipulations between the governmrnts of the United States and Mexico required the authorities of each country to treat the citizens of the other with kindness and justice. His Excellentissimo replied, that the government of the Californias would not be restrained in its action by treaties which the central government might make ; and that if the department of the Californias should violate such compact with the United States, that government would seek redress from Mexico ; that the Californian government was the mire J- f^Q BCENESINTHEPACiriC. vifrent of the Ceptral government, and therefore not resp« sible to other nations for its administration. The Mexican government alone had a right to complain of its acts. The American replied, that the department of the Califor - nias being an integral part of the Mexican nation, any mju- ry whichits authorities shouldinflict on the persons and rights of other nations might well be redressed on the persons and property of the Californias. The Governor answered, that he thought not. He was then asked, what he ^»V?°f^^ American or British fleet would do, if one should at that timeanchor at Monterey f This question startled the miserable tyrant. That spectral fleet outside, its reputed commander in his very presence, and the constant plying of the Don Quixote between him and his armament, seemed for a moment to come before him, like a fearful reality. Perceiving the impression made upon him, theAmericantook advantage of the occasion 'o remark, that it would be necessary for the Californian government to brine the persons then in confinement to a speedy tria. tor any alleged misdemeanor, or set them at liberty without trial, at a very early dav , for the American government and its citizens required him, and would, if necessary, compel him, in this instance at least, to do an act of strict justice. The qmet and firm tone of this address threw his Exce - lentissimo into a most sublime rage. He ordered the guards to fire on the American, and strode through his apartment, bellowing fearfully, and raising a very dense cloud of dust The American, meanwhile, knowing that Cahfornian noise boded little danger, stood quietly awaiting the termination of the tumult. It ceased after a while, and mildly saying to the governor, that he had only to repeat, that the pris- onersmustbe tried and lawfully condemned or set at liberty, and that soon, he walked through the guards and returned to his lodgings. He had not been at hone more than an hour when a mescage arrived from Don Jose Cas ro, Alva- cado^s captain advising him not to appear in the stre-t. 1 TRAVELS I II THE CALIFORNIA S. 81 :fore not resp« , The Mexican of its acts, ntof theCalifor- nation, any inju- lersons and rights n the persons and or answered, that at he supposed an ,e should at that int. That spectral ?ery presence, and tween him and his before him, like a n made upon him, ion '0 remark, that iin government to ) a speedy tria. for berty without trial, rovernment and its jssary, compel him, strict justice. ss threw his Excel- ordered the guards ugh his apartment, ense cloud of dust ! lat Californian noise ing the termination !, and mildly saying jpeat, that the pris- ined or set at liberty, guards and returned hone more than an in Jose Castro, Alva- ippear in the street* neain, for he feared that his life would be taken by the sub etterns of the insulted government ! ! I'his message was intended to prevent him from appear- ing before the grates, and encouraging tlie prisoners to bear their sufferings like men worthy their high extraction ; and also to deter him from interfering with the unholy purposes of the Government against their lives. It failed of its object. His reply was, that he did not at that time comprehend the necessity ot Captain Castro's anxieties in regard to him, and taut as he should have business in the streets about sunset, those who felt disposed would have an opportunity at that time to make any demonstrations congenial with their feel- ings. At sunset he walked down to the prisons, heard again through the grates the cries of their tenants for air and water, and returned to Mr. Larkin's, to pass a miserable night— a night of unavailing compassion. The next day he went into two of the cells, took the names and residence of a portion of the prisoners, and learn- ed their general condition. They had nothing on which to sleep or sit except the wet ground ; were emaciated, pale and sickly ; some of them could scarcely walk to the grate to get fresh air ; one could not stand, and his fellows from time to time held him up to breathe ! They said in their despair, that they could keep hope alive as long as he dared to walk frequently before the prison, for his presence obtained them better treatment from their enemies, and encouraged the more desponding to expect through him deliverance from their sufferings ! Graham's cell was under a double guard. It could not be approached. People were even forbidden to pass it. I oc- casionally approached near enough to hear the lion-hearted old man roar out his indignation. A great and brave sou? had that man. Its best energies had been bestowed on the mgrate Alvarado. He had made the rascal into a gover- nor ; and this was the beginning of his reward. The afternoor was spent in much perplexity by the officers 82 SCENES IN THE PAC FIC. of Jhe government. Theybelievod the American to te sotne« tiling more than a Commuilorc. His precise rank they couid not determine. It was evident to tliem that he had a fleet outside under his command ! J3nt he spoke and acted as if he not only had authority on the seus, but the hind also, even in Los Californias ! He was everywhere j)resent, forbidding one thing and ordering another ; rushing into the gover- nor's apartments, upbraiding him for his acts, and threaten- ing to bring destruction upon the town, unless all his capri- cious wishes in regard to the rebels were gratified. His cha- racter was an enigma. If he assumed it, death was too light a punishment. If he were really a high agent of the Rejtub- lic of North America, his bearing and acts comported with his character, and indicated that great circumspection would be necessary in the course adopted toward the prisoners. Mr. Larkin was called upon to express his opinion in this vexed matter ; but he very properly said that he knew noth- ing about it, except that this man appeared to be one who understood his duties, whatever they were ; and suggested that it might not be well to disregard his opinions, or other- wise treat him with disrespect. The subaltern dignitaries thereupon lUiide tiieir complimentary acknowledgments to the American, and passed a part of the day with him and Mr. Larkin. It pleased them to say many handsome things of the bravery and intelligence of the citizens of the States. They were told in reply that the United States expected the prisoners to be released from unjust and tyrannical impri- sonment. The Sefiors Imwed assent ; but mentioned as a (iilficulty in the way of this proceeding, that to release them would be an act of great disrespect to the governor, Juan Bap- tiste Alvarado. To this it was replied that such disrespect would not be very alarming — not quite so serious as the Paixhan guns of an American or British man-of-war. Another night of suffering in the prisons. " Heat, heat ! Air! for God's sa'ce pive iis air! air! You brown devils, a a A q ti i| ri c. ricanto tesome- ; rank they could at he had a fleet uid acted as if he land also, even in esent, forbidding ; into the gover- cts, and threaten- nless all his capri- ratified. Hischa- Icath was too light rent of the Repub- s comported with nmspection would d the prisoners, his opinion in this hat he knew noth- •ed to be one wlio re ; and suggested I opinions, or other- ibaltcrn dignitaries •knowledgments to day with him and ly handsome things tizens of the States, States expt;cted the ;d tyrannical impri- but mentioned as a that to release them governor, Juan Bap- that such disrespect te so serious as the sh man-of-war. sons. "Heat, heat! You brown devils, T TRAVEI-H IN THE TAI, IF0RNIA9. 83 1 give us air !" were heard at intervals, till the noise pf open- ing day drowned these agonizing entreaties. On tlic morning of the twenty-first, the American was retuscd any intercourse with the prisoners. During the fore- noon, therefore, he walked many times past tlie grates ot the several buildings ; stopped often and encouraged the in- mates by bis mien to hope on still. Mr. Larkin had fed them liberally in the morning, and furnished every cell with an abundant supply of water. Yet they suflered greatly ! They looked on damp prison walls, and dragge time been subjected to losses and the most degrading personal treatment from theCalifbrnian and New Mexican authontie:*. Whites and Indians having been injured in this manner, with- out personal resistance, until all hope of retribution from the federal government, and every prospect ol better morals on the part of the robbers, had forsaken thern, have taken the club into their own hands : and the ruined Indian and white man put on the red paint of battle, band together, make incursions among the covyards of Santa F6, and even cross the mountains, and lay tribute upon the mules and horses of the Californians. Such were the Indians whose presence created the alarm at Monterey. They number- ed about fifty. And the vagabond government well knew that those fifty rides if brought upon the town at that time would send every poltroon of them to their last rest. No wonder, then, that there was quaking at Monterey. Old scores and la- ter ones would have been balanced, if those men had dream- ed that Americans and Britons were in the prisons of Monterey. It was suggested by several persons that the prisoners would be shot during the week without trial. Acting upon this hint the American intimated to some of the more pru- dent and intelligent among them, his willingness to aid them in breaking- prison, taking the town, and disposing of the authorities at rope's end, if they did not give them a fair trial within three days thereafter. These propositions in- spired them with such new life, or rather so kindled into action the little that was left in them, that those who had strength enough to make themselves heard, struck up " Hail Columbia," and " Rule Britannia," with a fervor that at intervals choked their utterance ! I never before felt the force of thes national son nrs. The night was still! Scarcely a sound was heard save the heavy surf beating on the rocks of Puentos Pinos. I walked around the prisons till eleven o'clock, to the peril of life, in- deed, but in the enjoyinentof feelings dearer than life itself. I TRAVELS IN THE CAMFORNIAS. 87 jve from time to grading personal xicanauthonties. his manner, with- ribution from the better morals on I, have taken tlie med Indian and e, band together, if Santa F6, and e upon the mules were the Indians ey, Theynumber- ent well knew that it that time would rest. No wonder, . Old scores and 1a- se men had dreani- msons of Monterey, that the prisoners trial. Acting upon e of the more pru- lino"ness to aid them id disposing of the ot give them a fair lese propositions in- ther so kindled into that those who had ard, struck up " Hail ith a fervor that at national songs. The heard save the heavy s Pinos. I walked to the peril of life, in- I dearer than life itself. « Hail Columbia !" I wish my readers could conceive Bomething of the stirring might of those words sung by parched lips within the prisons of California ! Dying Amer- icans sang them ! The unconquerable sons of the Repub- lic sang them, though strength was sinking and the blood flowed feebly through her children's veins ! <« Rule Britannia!" The battle anthem of the fatherland ! Sturdy Britons were there to sing. Their voices seemed weak when they began it ; but as their feelings seized more per- fectly the inspiration of poetry and music, the floating walls of the Island Empire seemed to heave in view. " Rule Bri- tannia !" It came ringing through the grates during the lat- ter part of the evening with a broken, wild shout, as if the breath of those who uttered it came fresh from Trafalgar I Pinto, the captain of the guard, inquired the purport of their songs, and was told by a Scotchman at the grates that they were " the war-cries of Britain and America, and that the Californians, Mexicans, and the rest of the Spanish creation, had better vote themselves asses and devils before those nations forced the idea into them from the muzzles of their rifles !" This Pinto was a small pattern even of a coward, but what there was of him one could not doubt was the genuine article. He had a srcall narrow head, very black stiff hair, a long thin nose with a sharp pendant point ; small snakish eyes, very near neighbors, and always peering out at the corners of the sockets ; a very slender sharp chin, with a villanous tuft of bristles on the under lip ; a dark swarthy complexion burnish- ed with the grin of an idiotic hyena. Who would not expect such an animal to be frightened at the carnage songs of the piirent of nations and her firstborn child ! He did fear, the miniiif ure scoundrel ! He had been one of the principle in- stigators of this barbarity, and if he believed in the recupe rative energies of prostrated justice he had reason to tremble. In his trepidation he sougU the quarters of Jose Castro. This man was his monster superior. With the geneial out- , L 88 SCENES lie THE PACIFIC. lines of the human frame, he united every lineament of a thoroughbred ourang-outang : as, very long arms, very large brawny hands, a very heavy body, and a very contemptible face, vrinkled and drawn into a broad concentrated scowl of unsatisfied selfishness. This dignitary iiuide the rounds of the guard and retired to his couch, satisfied that he was really what he modestly called himself — the Napoleon of Western America ! Pinto took up his position with great resolution in the shade of an adobie wall, ai a safe distance from the prisons ; and when I ieit the ground he was employing his knees in knocking each other into a stiff stand against unmanly fear. Nothing else worthy of note occurred during the night. On the morning of the 22d the governor sent again for the American. He would not see the messenger. About nine o'clock, however, he walked down before the prisons and spoke a word of cheer to their inmates. They were wretched, but hope was awakened in them by his presence and fearlessness. There was evident consternation among the dons. That American signalling the Don Quixote every morning as she swept into the harbor, and the idea of a fleet outside, its commander ashore, communicating with it by a fast-sailing brig, and that commander defying the governor, breaking through the guards, conversing with the prisoners, and those martial songs by night, were ominous circumstances in the eyes of those contemptible tyrants-! About noon it was reported that the prisoners would have a trial ! A little advance this ! The government had begun to yield to its fears, what it would not to its sense of justice. The next morning, the 23d, the entire standing army, con- sisting of sixteen filthy half-breeds, and a corps of .about sixtj volunteers, mustered at the beat of the drum before the pri- sons. Twenty-one of the prisoners were brought out between the lines,marched to the governor's house, and seated on the grass in front of it. They were emaciated and pallid, but re- c. lineament of a arms, very lar^e ;ry contemptible centrated scowl uard and retired ?hat he modestly \merica ! Pinto 1 ihe shade of an isons ; and when lecs in knocking ly fear. Nothing ight. lOr sent again for essenger. About before the prisons ates. They were m by his presence g the dons. That ery morning as she fi fleet outside, its it by a fast-sailing rovernor, breaking )risoners, and those Tcumstances in the •isoners would have 'ernment had begun its sense of justice. standing army, con- I corps of about sixty drum before the pri- brought out between se, and seated on the 2d and pallid, but re- TRAVEL8 IN THE CALIPORNIAB. 89 folute. The American pushed his way through the crowd of officers and citizens, seated himself within twelve feet of the prisoners, and manifested to them by the sincerest com- passion and most resolute acts, that if they ilied he died with them. He had agreed with them to appear before the prison al the middle hour of night, on the twenty-fourth, and go with them to t>ecdom or a lirave death, if they were not fairly tried and on evidence condemned, or released before the fol- lowing midnight. Tliis promise they felt would be kept. The trial, as it was called, soon commenced. Each man was summoned singly from his seat to a lower room in the governor's house, and called upon to produce his passport. Most of them replied, that they were arrested in their fields or workshops, aixd were not permitted to go to their resi- dences for papers or anything else. To this the Alcalde who sat in judgment said, " I have no evidence before me of your lawful right to remain in California." The next question was, " What do you know of a revo- lutionary movement under Graham V The reply was, " I know nothing of any such movement or intention." " What meant that advertisement for a horse-race, put forth by Graham ?" " It meant what such advertisements have meant for the last five years : a wish on the part of Graham to run his American horse in California." " Notliing more ] Nothing more ?" This was the form of trial in each case. The only favor they craved was, that they might have an interpreter who understood both languages. This was denied them. A miserable tool of the government, who spoke the English so badly that he could never make himself understood, succeeded, by his manner of translating their answers, in making them confess themselves guilty of high treason, aud other misdcn:eanors worthy of the bullet. SCENES IN THE PACIFIC Aftci all had passed this ordeal, a Botany Bay Convict, hy the name of Garner, was called in evidence on bchnlf of tne (jfovernment. His testimony r«moved all lingering doubts. He established the unqualified guilt of all. Graham, in par- ticular, who had been preferred over him as commander of the foreign riflemen in Alvarado's revolution, and whom he had previously attempted to kill, he declared to have formed a scheme of ambition, which, had it not been discovered, would have dug the grave of every Spaniard in California ! ! This man's testimony was written out and signed by his murderous hand. It may be in due time a blister on his perjured soul. The reported confessions of each prisoner were reduced to writing in the Spanish language. They contained, as I after- ward learned in Mexico, things never said, accounts of acts never performed, and bequests of property to their persecu- tors, their jailers, and to those, who, on several occasions, thrust sabres at their hearts when nearly helpless in the dun- geons of Monterey, which I need not say were never made. Few of them could read Spanish, and none were permitted to peruse these documents. They were compelled to sign them, af? poor Morris was, by threats of instant death if they refused. Thus ended the trial of one hundred andsixty-odd Americans and Britons, before a court of Californian Arabs ! What its judgment would be was the painful question in every mind ! A few of them had been sent to their places of residence with- out arms, or any intimation whether it would be the sublime pleasure of the villains that they should live or die : the greater part were remanded to the prisons. And again, while they sat, stood, and laid onthemud floors of their cells, and clanked their fetters and handcuffs, they sang " Hail Columbia," and " Rule Britannia," as another night of wo passed aw^y ! That spectre fleet and its commander were the only hope between them and death. On this they leaned ! On the morning of the twenty-third the drums beat at early dawn, and the whole military force paraded before the dungeons. An imposing display was that. The clanking of T TRAVELS IN THE C A I, I K O K N I A 9 . 91 Bay Convict, by on bchnlf of tne ingering doubts. Graham, in par- as commander of )n, and whom he 1 to have formed a liscovered, would iliforflia!! This by his murderous his perjured soul. ;r were reduced to ntained, as I after- l, accounts of acts ^ to their persecu- several occasions, elpless in the dun- ' were never made. e were permitted to jelled to sign them, ^ath if they refused, xty-odd Americans , Arabs ! What its tion in every mind ! es of residence with- ould be the sublime ve or die -.the greater [id again, while they eir cells, and clanked " Hail Columbia," night of wo passed nander were the only lis they leaned ! d the drums beat at ce paraded before the tiat. The clanking of rusty swords and scabbards, the jingling of loose gun-locks, and the right-about-face-forward-march operations of these bandy-lcrired, pale-livered, disconsolate sons of iMars, pray- in- to the'saints that they might not be annihilated by such ter- rible events, told a story of valor, -vhich future ages ought to hear with appalled oars ! The times which try lien's souls have always been remarkable in some way ; and this day was chietly conspicuous for bec-f and beans. The quantity of these articles which they devoured at breakfast, was in- credible; and the grease and dirt which they consumed, the glare and quick twinkling of the eyes for more, and the panlin.r obesity of their persons when the meal was ended, indicatl'd great perseverance, if not indomitable bravery. As in other countries talent is measured by impudence, tnoral worth by long faces and ster.^oty ped solemnity of coun- tenance, and rank by the elevation of the nose and the suc- cessful villainy of ancestors, so in California, with the same unquestionable good sense, do the cavalieros measure their manliness of character, their bravery in arms, their civil and .ocial elevation, 1)V the capacity of their stomachs and their eloquence in boasting. Never were men happier or niore thorou-rhly self-content than the troops of Monterey at their beef and beans. The events of The Revolution we.e dis- cussed with full mouthsand laboring throats. Los Espamoles del Alta California, to wit, every Indian with a drop of Span- ish blood under his filthy skin, were muy bravos, extremely brave, and their conduct in the late troubles was second to nothing recorded since the siege of Mexico under Cortes. It is said bv some one who pretends to know, that the world generally estimates us by the value we set upon our- selves Whether this opinion be founded in truth or not, I am unable to determine. But certain it is, the Genius of Glory in these days seems to be in her dotage. Homer, Socrates, Luther and Washington, wear her laurels with so much grace, that the old jade appears to think it a mere amusement to make immortal men. Accordingly she 93 BCENES IN THE PACIFIC. throws the poet's wreath upon moon-struck rhymsters, tlie philosopher's crown upon heads with long hair and dirty beards, that of the Reformer upon apes and brass-mounted women, and even tries to make men out of male Callforni- ans. Sad mistakes are all these ; and particularly the last. About ten o'clock the troops were reviewed by Don Jose Castro. A little after eleven, all the prisoners except forty- six were pardoned. These the government would not libe- rate. They had acted a conspicuous part in Alvarados* revolution, and were feared as likely to demand for them- selves and their companions the fulfilment of the promises which he had made them. The American had suggested that they should be sent to the Consuls of their respective governments at Tepic. A ship which had been chartered for that purpose (the Roger Williams, of Boston), was float- ing in the harbor. Thedoorsof the prisons were opened; the emaciated tenants came out, chained two and two, hand and foot, some of them with no clothing except a pair of ragged pan- taloons. The Spaniards had robbed them not only of their catth;, horses, mules, and freedom, but also of their wardrobe. They were marched towards the shore, clanking their chains. Poor Graham and Morris were so heavily loaded with irons that it required four stout Indians to carry them. The American mingled among them, and dissuaded them from a contemplated insurrection on ship-board. Three Cal- ifornian women followed the prisoners. They were wi ves, and had children. They clung to their husbands and wept aloud. Castro ordered them to be driven away with blows. They were beaten with swords, tut would not go. They led their children, and helped bear the chains that were galling the bleeding limbs of those whom they loved. They said, " the soldiers have taken all our horses, cat- tle and property, and now they take you away from us for ever 1 May God take our lives ! Oh, Mary, mother of God, pray for us !" As they were going down to the boat, poor old Grahpm n c. uck rhymsters, tlie ong hair and dirty and brass-mounted L of male Callforni- articularly the hist. iewed by Don Jose soners except forty- ent would not libe- part in Alv.irados* ) demand for them- nt of the promises ican had suggested of their respective lad been chartered ' Boston), was float- is were opened; the and two, hand and a pair of ragged pan- m not only of their so of their wardrobe, anking their chains, ly loaded with irons rry them. and dissuaded them -board. Three Cal- They were wives, husbands and wept ;n away with blows, ould not go. They le chains that were im they loved. all our horses, cat- ou away from us for , Mary, mother of it, poor old Grah?m TnAVEI.8 IN THE CALIF0RNIA8. §s seemed entirely broken-hearted. The American said (o him, "Be brave, Graiiain, be brave! Lei no Tennessean ever think of yielding in (his way. Raise your head and keep it erect. Once landed at San Bias, you are safe. I will see you when you land." "Ah," said Graham," I never can be a man again after having these feet bound with ironsby a Californinn; never again ! I could bear to be a prisoner to a brave and decent people, buttobecaughtandcooped up, chained and exported like a tub of lard, by these here scabs of mankind, is mighty bad ! No, I never shall be a man again, Mr . Here, take my hand. We should have been riddled with bullets if you had not been here, could the rascals have drawn a bead close enough to hit us! I never shall be a man again! Irons on the legs of a man who fought for them, who made the cowards what they are ! With my fifty rifles about me, I could drive the devils from the whole coast or lay them away to rot. But I won't think on't. I never can be a man again !" They put him and some others into a boat and pushed off for the ship. " Farewell, Mr. , farewell : but stop, hold on !— have you got money enough to get home with ? I will let you have some in San Bias. But I never shall be Graham again !" The boats continued to ply between the ship and the shore until all were carried on board. The multitude then retired to the town. Deepfeelings struggled in every breast at the termi- nation of this affair. Alvarado was mad that he had not shot Graham, to whom he owed $2,235 and other obligations ; those cavalieros whohad been rejected by ladies to make way for foreign suitors, were enraged beyond measure that most of them had been left in the country. The ladies generally rejoiced that no blood had been shed ; the wives of those who had been sent on board the prison-ship, sat on shore beneath the tree where the cross was erected by Padre Junipero, and wept upon the necks of their children, until the ship was out of sight. The American suggested that the (own might be ^ iCE^ ER IH THE PACIFIC. laken, aad the perpetrators of such outrages be dUposto of al rope's end ; but the proposition was discountenanced by the residents. The church w.s opened, and a Te Deum .unff for the deliverance of the country ! After this, each class true to their leading emotions, gathered in knots about town and talked of these strange things till supper separated them for the night. During the evening some of the offi- cers of government called at Mr. Larkm's, and infornicd the American that the governor had sent the prisoners to the American and British Consuls at Tepic, v.a San Bias, and that the vessel would put into Santa Barbara for pro- visions and other prisoners. The twenty.fourth morning of Apnl was clear ; the sun came up the eastern hills on a landscape of sweet thmgs. No one born anddwellingin the rugged, changing seasons of the Northcan know, without experiencing, the delights of a ch- mate like that of California. From spring to spring agam all is friendly ; from morning till morning comes again al is pleasant to breathe and to see; from hour to hour the body feels in the air a balmy blessing; from moment to moment the blood leaps vigorously through the frame Near eleven o'clock the troops were in motion, and Mr. Larkii. and,myself went down to tne public green, to see what might transpire. We fouudthegreen covered with the people kneeling and cross-ng . fcmsehes, and the priest in full robes performing high-mas. near the door of the governor's dwelling. His FxcellentiMim. -as kneeling with his officers before the al art devoutl, as if he had been obedient to the com- mandments fror^ his youth till that time. It .^s shoacing to hear him respond to the prayers for '^P«"*«r: ^t'^^ any observer might see the malignity w ^ which he hac lughtthelives of his friends, struggling among the muscles of his face and burning in his eyes ! X he services being ended, the governor retired into h.- ^ouse. Tlnnks had been given to God forsavingthe countr. L ■I c. s be disposta of at jntenanced by the a Te Deum aung CT this, each class knots about town, supper separated r some of the ofii- n's, and informed lit the prisoners to !pic, via San Bias, a Barbara for pro- xas clear ; the sun )f sweet things. No iging seasons of the he delights of a cli- :ing to spring again ig comes again all is 1 hour to hour the r ; from moment to jugh the frit me. in motion, and Mr. public green, to see ; people kneeling and "uU robes performing lor's dwelling. His s officers before the )bedient to the com- (le. It was shocking for repentance, while V w iV which he had ng among the muscles ernor retired into ha Iforsavingthecountr* I 'RAVELS IN THi. CAU IFORNIAS 95 I ^m danger which never existed, and for protectii.g the vilhilns thiit pretended its existence as an excuse for shed- ding blood. No other event occurred that day worthy of being no- ticed, except the wives of those poor fellows who were floating down the coast in the prison-ship went weeping through the streets, best^eching all they met to go down to Santa Barbara and bring back their husbands. I spent my time among the foreigners, who had been let out of prison, in gathering information relative to the coun- try, which will be given in another part of the volume. The evening was passed at Mr. Larkin's. We were hap- py, not because we felt no danger around us, for there was much of it. But we were glad that no more groans came up from the damp dungeons ! That none of our countrymen were calling for air, and water, and food, from those infernal dens ! Alas, for those who were on their way to Mexico We thought of them sadly ; they might be dying ; but wf called hojx; to otir aid, and believed that better hours would soon dawn on their misery. More than one hundred of onr countrymen were released from impending death ! Bolts grated no more ! chains clanked no more on the silen' night! And we felt in our own persons something of that returning security to life which sends through the sol' of the most reckless and inexpressible sense of pleasure. The next morning th<> green before the governor's ho«se was graced with a portly effigy of Senor Judas Iscariot ! One ankle out of joint, and other parts disarranged, for the especial gratification of his inferiors in moral qualities. The senor was assumed to be dead. His optics glared rather sorrowfully upon the multitude around him, as if loth to look the last time on congenial hearts ! He held in his hand a scroll, containing a last will and testament, in which his several virtues and possesions were bequeathed to vari- ous persons residing in the country. In the afternoon the American and some other gentlemen a9 ■ CENRi IN THK PACfFrC. were invited by an English resident to a frsta on the shores of the bay. And beiriff in a mood to seize upon anythinf^to divert thought from the unpleasant reminiscences of the past week, we gladly accepted the invitation, without knowing indeed what a Californian festa might be. Dr. Bale was one of the guests, and kindly conducted us to the place selected fbr the ceremonies. It was among the trees, a short distance southwest of the anchorage ; a wild, rude spot. The old trees, which had thrown theirbranches over the savage before H white man had touched the shores, were rotting on the ground, and formed the fuel of our fire ! The ancient rocks stood around, covered with the moss of ages! The winds sang in the trees ! The ringing cadences of the towering pine, the deep bass of the strong spreading oak, the mellow alto of the flowering shrubs, the low, soft voice of the grasses, nature's great iEolian lyre, breathed sweet music ! The old wilderness was there, unshorn, and holy, respond- ing to the songs of birds in the morn of the opening year. When we arrrived, half a dozen brunettes were spread- ing cloihs upon the grass, and displaying upon them boiled ham, dried beef, tongue, bread, pies, cigars, and various kinds of wines, from the vineyards of the country ; so that a festa proved to be an invitation for us to eat and drinK among a group of joyous children and smiling lasses. Yes smiling, hearty Californian lasses. Who is not glad to see me repeat words that speak of the smiles of women 1 I do not mean those heart-rending efforts at grinning, which one 80 often meets in mechanical society ; but those pulsations of genuine joy and truth, which come up impulsively from woman's real nature, shedding on the dwelling-places of the race the sweetest elements of the social state. It u that sunshine of our moral being ^hich beams on our cradles, on the paths of our childhood, on the stormy skies of mis- fortune in the years of manhood, which warms the chilled heart of age into renewed life, and shines on till sight and sense are lost in the dark gateway to the after state ! TRAVEI, 9 llf THI CAMFORNIAfl. 97 f I C. ^rsta on the shores ! upon anything to 5cences of the past without knowini» Dr. Bale was ono the place selected es, a short distance Ic spot. The old er the savage before ere rotting on the The ancient rocks ages! The winds cs of the towering ng oak, the mellow ■, soft voice of the ithed sweet music! , and holy, respond- the opening year, nettes were spread- ng upon them boiled cigars, and various ihe country ; so that us to eat and drinw smiling lasses. Yes rho is not glad to sec les of women ? I do t grinning, which one but those pulsations up impulsively from iwelling-places of the cial state. It u that cams on our cradles, I stormy skies of mis- ich warms the chillod lines on till sight and I the after state ! We ate and drank freely. Who could do otherwise 7 The mellow laugh of childhood, the holy kimlncss of maternal care, the pride of the paternal heart, the love of woman, the sky and fragrant breezes of a Californian lawn, the open sea, the giant woodlands, the piping insects, the carolling of a thou- sand birds, the voices of a boundless hospitality, invited us to do so. The fuiest dish of all the goodly array of fat things, the brunette lips excepted, was the roasted mussels. The In- dians in attendance gathered a number of bushels, piled them upon a large log fire, and in a few minutes presented them to us, thoroughly cooked and delicious to the taste. Indeed I hope for no better fish. They are tender as an oyster, with as fine flavor ; and the abundance of them is really remarka- ble ! The coast is lined with them. Our festa ended near sunset. It had been as agreeable as our hosts' best attentions could render it. The ladies also had vied with each other to make the occasion happy. But their gladness was forced. A deep gloom like that which the thun- der-cloud throws over the flowering meadow-land, saddened their smiles, arrested the laugh half-uttered, bent the figure, and shaded the warm glow of joy in the eye, with the cold watchfulness of alarm! Such was the influence of that prison ship, the last speck of which had been watched, as it sunk, hull, spars, and streamer, over the bending sea, freight- ed with chains and the misery of fellow-countrymen, that tha heart could not be persuaded into happinMB ! CHAPTER V!. An Indian Lawy.T and h.s W.fe-A SP^^--' i-„r_Ton>'s New En.l.arka.ion-WeiKhing A'"'"-^-^" ^'";";1t„„Vs opinion of iht Axo-Goneral Trainm« Uny'-B.c.n.u-. ^^^ ' ^^„^, .....^Mand-s- Lana ana its lnhabi,an.s_A ';"-'';^"-'7^'; ° i,.rb.ra-Thc Prison A calm-A ni.ht on aeck-Lamlm,' a S.n a H ^^^^^^^ Pictures ana Ceinuu ry *in- c„, and an EnRli* phy-cian ro,le on °" V^'^'' f^^.,„, ,n«sio„ of Sa„ Crmelo, one leaRUC an a h ™^ / from Mo„.«ey. The road Icadmg to «'»;;'" j"^ „f, rLr;;lt 1= t.t. *e ...va of .be «ad. The niiis, nowc*c , • „ „f eft low oak, pme and TV,o trpps were a species ot si>u, low uan, , coarser. The trees were i i „ ^^Upr snecies of grasses , . I. A h\riA nf clover and some other species ui g teeming fields of spring on tne ^^^ ^^^^^^ "'xLtalirof the mission U a *--?- "r" dornVomThe north-eastern highland,, accomp«..ed b, •r R A V F. I, « IN Ml ►. A I. I ► .( N I A « 99 ,d-The Surf-Bay ot ,_l1fstrleil nnd Sad— -Remrn lo MonHTey— cun Tnr-To.n's New i_Toin's opinion of ihi 3C«mooiM-i()n-Miin>l»— , H„rbiira-Thc Prlr I \ r ri E c i l i r o r n i a s 101 U ftirrow, whenever the bells called the Indian to his dutitn But prayers are no longer heard in San Carraelo ; the tower DO lunger commands obedience to God ; the buildings are crumbling to dust ; the rank grass is crowding its courts ; the low moss is creeping over its gaping walls ; and the ox and mule are running wild on its hills. The walls of the church are of stone masonry ; the roof of brick tiles. The whole structure is somewhat lofty, and looks down upon the surrounding scenery, like an old baronial castle, from which the chase, the tournament, and the reign of beauty have departed. An oaken arm-chair, Drown and marred with age, stood on the piazza, proclaiming o our lady of Guadaloupe and a group of saints rudely sketched upon the walls, that Carmelo was deserted by living men. My respect for the profession of " glorious uncertainties," will not permit me to leave this valley without introducing to ..he kind regards of the reader a brother lawyer. He lived on the banks of the Carmelo in a little mud hut, surroundea by some beautiful fields under good cultivation. His stock consisted of a number of tame cows, a few goats, uncounted flocks of domestic fowls, and a dozen dogs. When about a quarter of a mile distant, the dogs opened their artillery in a running fire upon us ; the cocks flew upon the fences and crow- ed terribly ; the pullets cackled ; and altogether, the commotion surprised our horses into a general snort, and ourselves into a laugh, prolonged and loud as our lungs could sustain, at such a welcome to the residence of the only professional lawyer in the Californias ! We rode up briskly in the midst of this cackling, crowing and barking, and dismounted before the door of a tolerably comfortable hut, in the standing presence of the brown, flat- nosed, broad-cheeked, ragged Indian Esquire. His head was bare, his leathern pants full of holes and glazed with grease, his blanket hung in tatters. His wife hobbled out ps blind as a fire-dog, and decrepid with years arnl hard labor. One or 102 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. two other Indians stood about among the hens and duckSj grinning and squinting at us in much wonder and humility ! Such was the group on the hen-dog-Indian side of the scene. Ourselves occupied the other. We stood at our horses' necks, one hand on the rein, ami awaited something, we knew not what. The Esquire rolled his little black eyes in delight to see us ; put one hand on the hip, and stood on one leg, and then changed into an opposite position ; shaking and giggling with joy meanwhile, and ap- parently not knowing where to begin to entertain either him- self or us. At length, Dr. Bale came to his relief, by referring to the fact that he owned more land before thf. mission was founded, than he now seemed to enjoy. At this he took fire, and went into a dissertation on the titles of the Padres and Indians; the substance of which, I learned from the Doctor, "was, that the Padres had taken possession of the valley about forty years before, had taught the Indians to work and pray, had given a portion of his lands to other Indians, and when civil troubles came, had killed most of the cattle and sold the hides and tallow to ships, for hard dollars, and with bags of these dollars left the country and the Indians who had earned them. " There," said he, pointing to his blind wife, " is all they have left me of my wife ; she worked hard and is blind ; and these little fields are all they have left me of my broad lands." His violent gesticulation and tone of voice led me to the belief that he was tinctured with, mania. The poor fellow and his wife excited our commiseration deeply, and I cannot remember them, even now, without reviving the pity I felt for the " Indian lawyer" i»nd his poor blind wife, tottering about her lowly hut. From these premises we turned rein for Monterey. Our Californian steeds laid hoof to the rough road in a manner wor- thy their Arabian sires. Speed, speed ! Backward the gravel flew from their willing feet, as we mounted the heights. Gully and rock were leaped with a joyful neigh ! We reached TRAVELS IN THE CA,.FOR>. lA 103 r ic. hens and duckSj Aer and humility ! Jian side of the on the rein, and rhe Esquire rolled it one hand on the d into an opposite leanwhile, and ap- tertain either him- I relief, by vefernng re thr. mission was \t this he took fire, of the Padres and i from the Doctor, of the valley about to work and pray, Indians, and when 3 cattle and sold the s, and with bags of lans who had earned , blind wife, " is all ;d hard and is blind ; eft me of my broad voice led me to the a. The poor fellow deeply, and I cannot nng the pity I felt for wife, tottering about for Monterey. Our road in a manner wor- ! Backward the gravel mounted the heights, J neigh ! We reached the highland when the sun was a hand's breadth above the ocean. His burning farewell lay on the verdant hill-tops. Onward ! speed onward ! The Bay is before us ; its crested billows are gilded, like frettetl gold, with rays from the uppe. rim of the sinking sun ! On the twenty-eighth of April the Don Quixote had com- pleted her business with P. I. Farnham & Co.'s ship Alciope, and was ready for sea. Captain Paty had laid in a generous supply of fresh beef, vegitHhles, and other comforts for his passengers ; the foreign residents had presented the American with many little tokens of regard, in the form of fruits, wines, &,c., to make the voyage comfortable. Eleven o'clock, A. M., we took leave of our countrymen, and others of the Saxon blood, on the rock where the prison- ers' chains had lately clanked, and shoved off' for the ship. One of the unpleasant circumstances attending journeys m wild and dangerous countries, is, the parting from persons of kindred feelings with whom we have wept or rejoiced. Many who had suffered in Monterey were still there. They had es- caped an apparently certain doom, and 1 had felt keenly every slmde which progressive events cast on their fate, or lifted from their hopes of being saved from the death of felons. They were saved ! They were glad ! But the fear of returning tyranny still hung over them. The same malignity held the reins of power ; and the dungeon and bullet were under the control of the same demons. It was hard parting with those brave and abused men. The throats of villains could be made to bleed ! The walls of justice and mercy could be reared around the social state in California. The acting government could have raised no force to prevent it. Britons and Ameri- cans could have done it; and the halter been made to claim its own. But that prison-ship and my hearth called me. " On board !" " On board !" Our boat lies under the le« of the good barque Don Quixote ; the ropes of the gangway arje seized ; and we stand on deck. " Man the windlass;* « heave the anchor, cheerily, boys," is ordered and done. «r 104 SCENES IN ■1' H E P A r 1 ' I C . This is always a Cheering time oa shii.-board. Henve ahoy ;» and the old salt's eye brightens, h.s step qvuckens and his V ice rings gladly, as link after link of the P-J^-s caWe tumbles aboard: till the flukes of the anchor lie h.ga on the bows, and the ship is given to her helm and the breeze The wind, the sea, and good planks between bm and the bottom, and the stars and st.ipes at the n^-"' "^^^^^^ substantial comforts of an American tar Supphe w.t th s and a clear sweep from the headlands, he >.nll lea^e the hore without a fe'eling that it will ever be his w.hto re ur. Indeed, the real sailor, he who has -und every yarn^ hs happy hours around the windlass, desp.es the land. We had in the Don Quixote an example of this kmd. Hewasatall, Itk-d YaJ^kee. from the State of Maine ; w.th a hand hke a grappling-iron, hung to a mass of shoulder and chest tha Juld hav! been formidable among buffalo. H.s deck name was Tom; to which the adjeative /o«g, was --^-^ P^^ fixed, as he explained it, « in order to add a fathom to its "men sixteen years of age, he had heard that Maine was noted far abroad for its long mortals and heavy fists ; and d amed that he was not so deficient in these quaht.es a^ to tercludedfromthedistinctionw^nughta^^^^^^^^ He therefore determined to avail himself of the hrst lavora hllccin for reapingthe ^-est of that notor.e^ to wh^ he seemed to be W Nor did ^-f ^ ^^^^^^^^ of time for such an opportun-.ty. .His f^^*^^"^ 3" ^ one evening with a new axe, purchased for Toms especial use, in the lumber forest. It was the mght previous o the General Training-day," at Portland; and he propo-d, the morrow would be a leisure day, that Tom should test the Te 7his axe, in cutting away a dry hemlock tree which halfallenacrossthepublicroad. A mere suggestion from the father was the law of his household. Tom, therefore, ate h.s ttkfast, next morning, with becoming f^-^:"^^^:' about seven o'clock struck his new axe into the dry hemlock IC. board. " Henve step quickens, and e pondero'is cable )r lie higli on the [ the breeze, ween him and the e mizen, are the lupplied with these :\c will leave the his wish to return. every yarn of his the land. We had id. He was a tall, ;; with a hand like ler and chest that 0. His deck name vas sometimes pre- [d a fathom to its ird that Maine was nd heavy fists ; and these qualities as to ight arise from them, f of the first favora- at notoriety to which an unpleasant length ather returned home [1 for Tom's especial ght previous to " the id he proposed, as the Tom should test the y hemlock tree which re suggestion from the rom, therefore, ate his [T submissiveness, and ! into the dry hemlock Long Tom Sassafras.—?- 105. TRAVELS IN THR CALIFORNTAS. 105 It rose, fell, and clinketl in tlu> hard knots ; and occasionally sinkinjr into the wood a doptli Knfliciont to hold without hia aid, lol't him at libei ty to chew his tobacco, and think of his cou- ditiun. The neighboring lads came riding past. They jeered him for his want of spirit, once, again, a third time, and onward, until Tom began to think that his situation was not quite so agret-alde as it would be, if he, also, with a pistareen in his pocket, were qn his way to the gingerbread carts of the pa- rade ground. To be kept at work on General Training-day, was at war with all precedent; that was a holy day for young people throughout all the land of johnny-cakes. A little reflection, therefore, convinced him that his father's re- quirement was somewhat unkind ; a little more thought and considerable love of gingerbread, demonstrated that chopping wochI on that day was not to be done by Long Tom Sassa- fras ; and depositing his axe in the corn-house, he went to the General Training, received a flogging from his father in the presence of an auctioneer of Yankee Notions, shipped on board a lumber sloop bound for Boston, and from that time became a Salt. Tom considered the land well nigh a ntiisance. It had a few points of value It was useful as a hiding-place from a storm ; useful as a hospital for " a fresh" to cure the scurvy ; as a convenient substitute for a " log" to show when the voyage is ended ; as a lumber yard for the wherewithal to ouild keels ; and as a place in which small fish may rendez- rous. But the sea was a greater part of the Globe; the home of freemen ; where they have a plenty of sound air to breathe, and nothing but the will of Heaven to curtail their movements. " On the land it is otherwise. One's tarpaulin is knocked off at every second step on their brick-decked gangways ; every lubber in straps and tights who sees fit to pass before you can up helm, runs into you, carries away your bowsprit, and d ns your eyes because you could not luff" into the walls of a building to give him lee-way. And then the 106 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC r land is all mud and reefs ; everything upon it is dirty ; the Ladies, God knows I love ti»e Ladies and pity them, can't keep themselves tidy. I've seen many a brace of them that required a fortnight's holy-stoning to get down to their natu- ral color. They are obliged to paint themselves to cover up the dirt and keep from looking weather-beaten. 1 never knew a sensible sailor that wasn't glad to leave the land for the glorious old sea. Their ideas, those land lubbers, ab.)ut what is comfortable and beautiful, are not worth a ball of spunyarn. They talk to you about the dangers of the sea, ,ust as if there was no lee coast to run one's head and toes against on the land ; about the shady groves on a May-day, just as if there were no May-day shade under the brave old oanvassof Neptune; and about the purling brooks and the music of birds, just as if there were neither water at sea, nor any albatross to sail and scream in the sun, nor happy petrels to sing in the storm. And about being buried in the sea! This they think is a dreadful thing ! They thrust their eyes half out of their heads when you tell them it is better to be eaten clean up by a decent shark, than to be stuffed away a few feet under ground among toads and worms and other varmints! And if you tell them that when a fellow dies at sea, they sew him up in a strong bit of canvas, and hang a weight to his feet, read prayers over him and drop hin. solemnly into the ocean, and he goes down into the clear cleaP water, two or three miles perhaps, and there sleeps higt above the bottom, high above dirt and worms, the lubber* think he is out of the latitude of the resurrection and Heaven and aU. I am for the sea. I would not mind shippmg on the quarter-deck a voyage or two, to see how it would seem to whistle the boys into the top-gallant stays in a dead north- easter. But I shoidd want to be before the mast. That's the home for me, boys." « Haul taut the weather main brace there" ! « Aye, aye, sir ;" and away skipped our Maine boy to hw duty. r ic. ^ it is dirty; the pity them, can't race ot" them that own to their natu- iselves to cover up r-beaten. 1 never leave the land for and lubbers, about t worth a ball of angers of the sea, )ne's head and toes )ves on a May-day, under the brave old inf brooks and the er water at sea, nor 1, nor happy petrels buried in the sea! ey thrust their eyes em it is better to be to be stuffed away a d worms and other len a fellow dies at canvas, and hang a him and drop hicB ■n into the clear clear id there sleeps higk worms, the lubber? irrection and Heaven jt mind shipping on ! how it would seem itays in a dead north- re the mast. That's here" ! our Maine boy to lus TRAVELB IN TUB CALIFORNIaB lOT We bai a fine uieeze from the time we weighed, till twelve o'clock on tttc twenty-ninth, when the wind died gradually away to a calm. Durint;; the night we lay oil" Punto Con- fepcion ; a rough ragged point of land forty miles north-west of Santa Barbara. On the thirtieth, a light breeze bore as early m the morning past San Miguel. This is an island, about fifteen miles from the coast. It is ten miles in circuin- ferente, with a rocky, barren and dry surface, marked here and there with a few fruitful spots and streams of water. At nine o'clock we were off Santa Rosa ; an island about the same distance from the land, twenty miles in circumference, piled with lofty barren hills, interspersed with a few forests and fertile districts. Next came Santa Cruz ; an oblong island forty miles in circumference, with some woodlands and fruitful vales. Farther off shore and southward, are the islands of Santa Barbara, San Nicholas and San Clemente. They lie in a line running south-east and north-west, and form the outer wall of the roadstead, called the Canal de Senta Barbara. These islanrw have much high land, com- posed of dark shining rocks, apparently of volcanic origin. They are partially covered with trees, but a greater portion of their surface is barren sands and rocks. They are densely populated with goats. Near night a calm came on, and our sails, after flapping awhile, hung lifeless upon the spars. This was a very annoy- ing circumstance. All on board felt extremely anxious to be m Santa Barbara that night lest the prison-ship should leave before we arrived. About twelve o'clock, however, a slight breeze sprang up, which bore us along two knots the hour. The air was so bland on deck that I chose a berth among some loose sails in the long boat, in preference to the heated cabin. It was a pure night. No vapor? obscured the sky. No harsh win;!s disturbed the waters. Every livinj( thing seemed reposing and smiling in its dreams of joy. Thu birds on the land and water should be excepted. They were 108 BCENES IN THE FACIFir twittering softly one to another, coursing through the air and marshalling and gabbling among the waves, as if keeping ▼igil over the slumbers of Nature ! The coast from Monterey to the Canal de Santa Barbara u broken into elevated hills, fringed with forests of pine and oak, and covered with the wild grasses From these flow many valuable little streams, which gurgle and plash down deep and verdant ravines to the sea. It is a beautiful wilderness ; a country for the wild horse, the mighty grisly bear, the un- domesticated cattle of a thousand hills ; a blithe domain for the human race, when true and valiant men shall govern it. The first sound that fell upon any ear on the first day of May, was the rippling of the water at the ship's side. She was moving slowly down the Canal de Santa Barbara. At nine o'clock we cast anchor before the town, lowered the boat and shot away to the beach. The prison-ship was lying at anchor in the roadstead ! Our countrymen were incarce- rated at the mission ! We might be of some service to them ; and that expectation gave us all infinite pleasure, in being again in their neighborhood. Santa Barbara is situated on an inclined plane, which rises (gradually from the sea i^ide to a range of picturesque high- lands, three and a half miles from the sea. The town itself is three quarters of a mile from the landing. The houses are chiefly built in the Spanish mode, adobie walls, and roofs of tile. These tiles are made of clay, fashioned into half cylinders, and burned like brick. In using them, the first layer i^ placed hollow side up ; the second invereely, so as to lock over the first Their ends overlap each other as common shingles do. This roofing serves very well in dry weather. But when the driving southwesters of the winter season come on, it afibrds a poor shelter. Very few of the houses have glass windows. Open spaces in the walls, protected with bars of wood, and olank shutters, serve instead. Mr. A. B. Thompson, a wealthy and hospitable American merchant, has erected a residencs I r. TllAVKI. S IN T II K r A I. » R N I .\ 9 , 109 rough the air and M, as if keeping Santa Barbara u ta of pine and oak, n these flow many plash down deep autilul wilderness ; [risly bear, the un- bliihe domain for n shall govern it. on the first day of le ship's side. She anta Barbara. At town, lowered the •ison-ship was lying ^men were incarce- rae service to Ihem ; e pleasure, in being sd plane, which rises )f picturesque high- The town itself is tig. The houses are valls,and roofs of tile. into half cylinders, he first layer if placed o as to lock over the common shingles do. ather. But when the on come on, it affords ;s have glass windows, ith bars of wood, and (.Thompson, a wealthy las erected a residenc* in the centre of the town, which bears very striking testin;o- ny to his being a civilizeil man. There is an old Catholic mission, one mile and \huf. quarters above the town, called Kl Mission de Sanfa Barbar.'. The church itself is a stone edifice, with two towers on the end towards the town, and a high gable between them. The friars complimented Father Time, by painting on the latter something in the shape of a clock dial. In the towers are hung a number of rich toned bells, brought from old Spain nearly a hundred years ago. The roof is covered with burnt clay tiles, laid in cement. The residence of the Padres, also built of stone, forms a wing with the church towards the sea. The prisons form another, towards the highlands. Hard by are clusters of Indian huts, constructed of adobiea and tile, standing in rows, with streets between. The old Padres seem to have united with their missionary zeal a strong sense of comfort and taste. They laid off a beautiful garden, a few rods from the church, surrounded it with a high substantial fence of stone laid in Roman cement, and planted it with limes, almonds, apricots, peaches, apples, pears, quinces, &c., which are now annually yielding their several fruits in abumlance. Before the church they erected a series of concentric urn fountains, ten feet in height, from the top of which the pure liquid bursts, and falls from one to another till it reaches a large pool at the base ; from this it is led off a short distance to the statue of a grisly bear, from whose mouth it is ejected into a reservoir of solid masonry, six feet wide and seventy long. From the pool at the base of the urn fountains water is taken for drinking and household use. The long reservoir is the theatre of the battling, plashing, laughing and scolding of the washing-day Around these fountains are solid, cemented stone pavements, and ducts to carry off the surplus water. Nothing of the kind can be in better taste, more substantial, or useful. Above the church and its cloisters, they brought the wa» no »r r.N r.n iw xnr r a r i r i r around the brow of a green hill, in an open stone nqueduct, a rapid, noisy rivulet, to a scjuare reservoir of beautiful ma- sonry. Below, and adjoining this, are the ruins of the Pa- dres' grist-mill. Nothing is left of its interior strurt ire, but the large oaken ridgepole. Near the atiueduct wl ch car. ries the water into the reservoir of the mills, stand:> a small stone edifice ten feet in length by six in width. This is the bath. Over the door, outside, is the representation of a lion's head, from which pours a beautiful jet of water. This little structure is in a good state of preservation. A cross sur- mounts it, as, indec e country ; and it's a mighty pity it should be held by a set ..f vagabonds who don't regard the honor of God or the rights of men. I have been here now seven ycurs ; have always been a peaceable man, except when I took part with the Californians against the tyranny of Govern- ment officers sent up from Mexico. And now I am lassooed like a bear for slaughter or bondage, by these very men whose lives and property myself and friends saved. Well, Graham may live to prime a rifle again ! If he does, it will be in CaUfornia ! Farewell to you. I hope we shall meet in Mexico." The old man brushed a tear from his weather- beaten generous face, and we left him. The American repeated his visit to the sick Englishman. He had neither ate, drank, nor spoken. His limbs were en- tirely cold and motionless ; fast sinking. The ladies in at- tendance were very compassionate, and bestowed on him every kindness he was capabie/of receiving. Yet how inhu- man the power which, calling itself a Government, authorises such murders ! The halter which swings at the bidding of a civil tribunal, the axe which flashes along the grooves of the guillotine, have their horrors ; and the head picked up by the mob and shown while life yet speaks from the eyes, and the dying love of Freedom still clothes the countenance, 116 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. shocks human forbearance ! But to be killed by inches, to be sent to the arms of death by tlie long agonies of thir.it and famine, for no crime save that of being an American or Briton, is a sacrifice at which malice itself in its soberer mo- ments shudders and turns pale. So was this man dying. He breathed heavily. One of Castro's ofhcers came in, and re- marking that he was undoubtedly a leeble man, kissed his hand gallantly to the ladies and retired. The evening was spent with Mrs. J. A. Jones, the Califor- nian spouse of the former American Consul at the Hawaian Islands, and her sisters. A stroll, a i 'c-u-lctc, anil the sweet guitar ! The air was balmy ; the smiles ^'ere deeply sympathiz- in I A ^ 121 L liirf;e liidies. But in 15°2H his fame fulls into the hands of Spaniards who treat it with the same lesped as they already have that of Columiiiis ; that is, begin to dig its grave. To avoid the vexations whiih the Vieeroy ol Mexico, and a few other envious men, lire throwing around hiiii to cripple his etl'orLs, lie sails to Spain and presents iiimsetf to his King. He is received at court with market! kindness, is made Mar- quis dt'l V^illi; de (iiiaxaia, ('aplain (icneral of New Spain and the provinces and coasts ol the South Sea, discoverir iind peopler of those coasts and of the island of pearls, gold iitid Amazons, with a grant of the twelfth part, fur himself and heirs, of all the territory that he shall discover and cimipier. These powers, privileges and honors lire anew the voleanic .spirit of this five feil seven inch slfiulei student of Salaman- ca. In 1530, theretbrt!, after having agreed with his sove- reign to prosecute his discoveries in the South Seas at his own expense, he returns to Mexico ; and finding the Audien- cia, the Council of Goverinnent, still inimical to him, deter- mines at once to undertake the manifold duties of his oirice. Accordingly in May, 1532, he appoints Diego llortadc Mendo/.a, a relative of his, commander of two ships which he has built at Acapulco, and sends him on a cruise into the Pacific. The crew of one of these vessels mutinies and brings her back to Xalisco. The other, under the personal command of Mendoza, is never heard of after she leaves port. Misfortune never weakens Cortez' resolution. On advice of his kinsman's loss and the ill fate of his expedition, he proceeds to Tehuantepec, and superintends the buildings of two other ships. These sail in 1534 for the fabled island of Amazons, under command of Hernando Grijalva and a cousin of Cortez, Diego Becera Mendoza. Grijalva pro- ceeds three hundred leagues to a desert island which he calls San Tomas, and returns. Ximenes, the pilot of the other, kills the commander, and having assumed the command, sails up the Gulf-coast of California as far as the bay of Santa Cruz. Here himself and twenty of his crew are destroyed by 122 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. the Inflians. After this event the sailors take the vessel down the coast of Mexico to a port called Chiaraetla. Xiiuenes' people, in the true spirit of the race to which they belong, represent the countij in which the.r pilot has been killed, as fruitful and thickly peopled, and the sea around it, stored with great quantities of pearl beds. So that the mis- fortunes of former voyages only serve to arouse the uncon querable spirit of this magistrate of San Diego de Cuba, to further effort in search of the rich islands and countries in the 'iorth Pacific. He accordingly gives public notice, that Her- nando Cortez, the conqueror of Mexico, Marquis del Valle, His Majesty's discoverer, &c. &c., designs to take command of a fleet for this purpose. Spaniards from all parts of the c-antry enter his camp at Tehuantepec; three new ships are launched, well supplied with stores for a long cruise, and sent northward to Chiametla; thither Cortez goes, with a large body of priests, officers and soldiers, and several families, de- signing to settle in the territories he may discover; the ship of Ximenes, lying at Chiametla, empty and plundered, is fitted up as the fourth vessel of this little squadron ; and Cortez and a part of his followers sail into the unknown north; enter the bay where Ximines was killed ; and call it Santa Cruz, Bahia de la Paz. Having landed his people and stores at this place, he sends his ships back to Chiametla for a part of the stores and peo- ple which have been left. Buftempests fall upon them, and contrary winds so thwart them, that only one ever returns to La Paz. Their stores and provisions consequently wane fast ; the country around is desolate and barren ; death gnashes his teeth upon them, and starvation walks a ghastly image through their pallid ranks ; but Cortez sees a difficulty only to conquer it. He immediately puts to sea in his only remaining ship ; crosses the gulf ; coasts along its eastern shore for the space of fifty leagues, amid infinite dangers from rocks, currents and tempests; finds his lost ships stranded on the coast ot tCIFlC. ors take the vessel ;d Chiametla. ; the race to which 'hich their pilot has ■d, and the sea around jds. So that the mis- ;o arouse the uncon I Diego de Cuba, to s and countries in the iblic notice, that Her- ;o, Marquis del Valle, Dfns to take command from all parts of the ; three new ships are i long cruise, and sent tez goes, with a large d several families, de- lay discover ; the ship and plundered, is fitted ladron ; and Cortez and mknown north; enter nd call it Santa Cruz, s at this place, he sends t of the stores and peo- !sts fall upon them, and t only one ever returns ions consequently wane d barren ; death gnashes walks a ghastly image ! sees a difficulty only to ;ea in his only remaining its eastern shore for the igers from rocks, currents itranded on the coast of L i TRAVEL? IN T H K C A I, I K O R N I A S . 123 Senora, and the bodies of liis companions rotting and boating among the breakers ! A sad end to those men was that ! A dolorous termination to Cortez' hopes of discovery ! and dread- ful to the people of La Paz, on a heated and desolate shore, starving and thirsting, the living eating the dead and chinking their blood ! On his return ho fnuls the few wretched ones who yet live, mad with hunger ! They shout with wild ma- niac joy, and rush into the surf! They try to swim to the ship for food and are cfist back upon the shore by the surges ! Many perish in the angry waters ! Cortez lands and gives them food in sparing quantities. But the tides of life have been ebbing too long ! Their dying energies are overtaxed ! They die by twenties and are buried among the brambles with the holy water sprinkled on them for a coffin and winding sheet ! The rude cross of wood stands over each one's grave, the symbol of faith and life to come ! And now the deep de- sert, red and toneless, hears their requiem, in the clankinf cable of Cortez's ship, as the wailing crew heave the anchor, and depart from the eastern shore of Lower California ! Meantime report at Mexico says that the murderer of Gua- timozin and Montezuma has perished in the western seas. Cortez is the name of a corse bloated and sunken in their depths. The caciques of the fallen dynasty shout for glad- ness among the mountains of Mexico. Tlteir enslaver no longer breathes. The great relentless heait of Cortez is rotting. His fiery eye has ceased to burn. His unconquera- ble soul no longer hovers over their native vales, and the sound of his terrible voice is for ever hushed. This belief rouses their lost courage. They gather around t^^eir ancient altars. The holy Sun is besought to blight their oppressors with his fervent fires, and send life, love, and true hearts among his fallen children. They worship in their ancient lemoles, and vow that they will be free. The Marchioness Donna Juanna de Zunniga, daughter of the Count de Aguilar and cousin to the Duke de Bejan, has loved the student of Salamanca, and become his second wife 124 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. Ami the love of this woman still burns ardently, and alonei for her absent husband. The Audiencia at Mexico arc Span- lards, and as such can lay aside their jealousy of Cortez when his prowess is required to save their necks. A virtue this which never fails to grow where Castilian blood fertilizes the human frame. The Caciques now line the mountain sides with their followers ; the war-cry bounds across the vale of the city. " Cortez is dead, and we can be free !" is sung on all the heights from the Gulf to the Pacific. That Audiencia now loves Cortez. They condole with his wife on her pro- bable loss, and allow her to send a ship with letters from her- self urging his return. The Caciques press towards their holy city, and its sacred lakes. The avenging passions of enslaved millions growl through the land, and the clash of savage arms, their dancings and songs, mingle in one direful din on the ear of the Viceroy. He sends entreaties that Cortez will return and save the country. These messages from the Vice- roy and his wife reach him on the coast of Senora ; he sails back to La Paz ; leaves Francisco de Ulloa in charge of a part of his people ; returns to Acapulco ; goes to Quahuna- huac to meet his anxious wife ; and thence proceeds to Mexi- co. The poor Indians learn that the murderer of their Emperor lives ! They lay down their arms, and every hope of freedom. Ulloa has followed his master, and awaits his orders at Acapulco. In May, 1537, he -is again ordered to sea with three ships, the Santa Agueda, La Trinidad, and Santo Tor- res. He touches at Santiago de Buetia Esperanza ; at Guay- abal ; crosses over to California, and follows the :;oast to the head of the Gulf. Along this f "-ast he sees many volcanoes, bare mountains, and barren valleys. Whales abound in the sea ; and on the land he finds large, heavy, and very crooked sheep's horns; also naked Indians taking fish with hooks made of wood, bone, and tortoise-shell, who wear bright shells about the neck, and use the maws of sea-wolves for n c . irclently, and alone, it Mexico arc Span- jealousy of Cortez ;ir necks. A virtue ilian blood fertilizes the mountain sides across the vale of be free I" is sung on fie. That Audiencia his wife on her pro- jvith letters from her- ess towards their holy r passions of enslaved the clash of savage in one direfxd din on ;aties that Cortez will essages from the Vice- 5t of Senora ; he sails UUoa in charge of a CO ; goes to Quahvma- ;nce proceeds to Mexi- the murderer of their arms, and every hope d awaits his orders at lin ordered to sea with rinidad, and Santo Tor- a Esperanza ; at Guay- foUows the coast to the he sees many volcanoes, Whales abound in the lieavy, and very crooked taking fish with hooks •shell, who wear bright maws of sea-wolves for T U A V E 1. S I N T UK c: A I, I K O R N 1 A 8 . Ub drinking vessels ! After a year's cruising in the Gulf, or Ma de Cortoz, UUoa returns to Acapulco. About this time Alvar Nunnez Cabeza de Vaca and his three companions, Castello, Dorontes, and a negro called Es- tevanico, arrive at Mexico. They are the only survivors of three hundred Spaniards who landed in Florida with Pamfilo de Narvaez, ten years before, with the intention of conquering that country. They have been defeated and «lriven from Flo- rida, and having wandered on foot tlfiough Louisiana, Texas, and other parts inhabited by savages, they appear among their countrymen naked, and so changed in their personal ap- pearance, that their language is ahnost the only evidence of their origin. This Alvar Nunnez Cabeza de Vaca relates such surprising tales of his adventures, and the gold, pearls, &c., seen in the north, as to kindle anew the avarice of the Spaniards. The excitement, however, does not reach its height until the return of a monk who has travelled over those countries with the design of Christianizing the natives. This man has seen rich countries covered with grains, fruits, countless herds of black cattle, and mountains shining with the precious metals. The Viceroy and Cortez are enemies. They both conceive the design of penetrating these countries. But the former induces the creditors of the latter to vex him with le- gal proceedings while he himself dispatches an expedition by sea and another by land, to discover and conquer these won- der-born regions. The land force is led by Francisco Vas- quez Coronado. He marches at the head of one thousand chosen men; and after many hardships reaches his destination, m 52^ N. Lat., three hundred leagues north of Culiacan, Cinaloa, and Valle de Senora. He finds a province here composed of seven towns in which are about four hundred men and a pro- portionate number of women and children. The largest has two hundred houses of earth and rough wood. Some are four and five stories high. The entrance to each door is from the I'M 8CENE8 IN THE PACIFIC outside by means of stairs, which, for security, are removed at night. The country not being strewn with gold and gems, how- ever, as the soldiers anticipated, they propose to return. But Coronado sends a body of them three hundred leagues farther ^ north, in search of two cities, called Quivira and Axa. They find only a rich country abounding in fruit, cattle and wild beasts. Meeting with nothing, therefore, in all these regions to gratify their cupidity during a search of three years, they return to Mexico and report to that effect. This expedition has traversed the interior of Upper California. The arma- ment, meantime, has sailed to the place of rendezvous on the Pacific coast of Oregon, and awaited in idleness the arrival of the land expedition. But as Grijalva was spending his time in searching for a land of gold, and the fabled cities of Quivira and Axa, instead of seeking his countrymen at the appointed place, the commander of the fleet found it conve- nient to return to Mexico. He is soon after disgraced and dies of chagrin. Thus terminate the Viceroy's expeditions ! The friends of Cortez bruit this failure of his enemy to de- fraud their chief of bis rights. But the star of that great man is sinking ; and they cannot stay its fall. Thwarted and overreached by his enemies, and finding the mind of his sove- reign poisoned by their machinations, he resolves to present himself again at Court and demand his rights. Accordin'.Tly, in 1540, he embarks with his two sons for Spain ; attends the King in his unfortunate expedition to Algiers; and after spending seven years in vain efforts to regain the favor of his monarch, expires of grief and disappointment at Castillya de la Cuesta, while on his way to meet his daughter at Cadiz. Thus dies the conqueror of Mexico and discoverer of California ! ^^^pn^M ;; I r 1 c \irity, are removed at rold and gems, how- opose to return. But mdred leagues farther vira and Axa. They fruit, cattle and wild e, in all these regions ■,h of three years, they ect. This expedition ilifornia. The arma- of rendezvous on the in idleness the arrival was spending his time the fabled cities of his countrymen at the fleet found it conve- after disgraced and dies oy's expeditions ! ire of his enemy tc de- the star of that great Its fall. Thwarted and ig the mind of his sove- he resolves to present s rights. AccordinvTly, 5 for Spain ; attends the to Algiers ; and after regain the favor of his lintment at Castillya de his daughter at Cadiz, ico and discoverer of T 1 CHAPTER VII!. Three liandred y.'ars ago— The Capiiana, Almirania, Fri?iite and Bars* Lon;,'o — A nirt' Bint— Mazailnn— A Fo^ aiui a R(,'el'— San Ban.abe — Layiii;; down Anns— Rich Shores— Game— Xaiure's Salt Works— Depuriiire— A NorihwcMer — A Separation— Sijjnal Fires— A Desert— Fi^h— A Saline Lalie— Tracts and a Meeting'— An Island— A Precious Mountain- Amber— Cerros—Circiininavif,'ating— San Hypolilo — Up the Coast— A Gale— Out of sii,'lit— Comes to Anchor— Bahia San Francisco of the South— Native Cattle— Indian Courtesy — A Meeting— Another Bay— A Battle— Weijjhs— San Diego— Savages — Graves — SaiHa C.iiarina— Its Inhahitants ami Customs — Its Productions— A Temple— A line of Islands — His Majesty and Hos|)itality — A Blow — Four Canoes- Rio San Carmclo— Monterey in 1000 — Death— The Al- mirania tlispaichcd to Mexico — A Horrid Disease — The Country — Its People and Animals — Bahia San Francisco of the North — Cape Men- docino— Death ! Death !— Return to Mazatlan— Death— To Acapuleo -Lamentations ! ! In 1542 the Viceroy of Mexico sends Juan Rodriguez Ca- brillo from the Port of Navidad with two ships, on a voyage of discovery up the coast of California. He touches at Santa Cruz, la Magdalena, Cape del Enganno in lat. 32", La Cruz in 33", de la Galera in 36^", the Bay of San Fran- cisco in about 37" 40', and sees a large Cape, in lat. 40", which he calls Mendocino, in honor of the Viceroy. In March, 1543, he reaches 44" without making any additional discover- ies of importance. At this time, the cold being very intense, he turns his ship homeward and enters the harbor of Navidad on the 14th of April, 1545. No other expeditions are under- taken to California, until 1596 ; when Count Monterey, the reigning Viceroy, receives an order from Philip II. for mak- inor discoveries and settlements in California. In obedience to this order, Sebastian Viscayno is appointed Captain-general I2R ^ (• E \ F. S IN THE P A C .K I C . of the Expedition, and Capt. Toribio Gomez admiral. Botk are persons of great worth, enterprise and skill. Two ships, the Capitana and Ahniranta, are purchased, and a frigate built expressly for this service. There is besides a barco longo for surveying creeks and bays, and such other services as cannot be performed with deeper keels. Three barefooted Carmel- ites, Padre Andrez de la Assumpcion, Padre Antonio de la Ascencion, and Padre Tomas de Aquino, accompany the ex- pedition in the capacity of spiritual advisers; and Capt. Alon- Eo Estevan Peguero and Ensign Caspar de Alarcon, as coun- sellors in relation to the proceedings of the expedition. Capt. Geronimo Martin is likewise attached to it as draughtsman of the coasts, islands, and harbors which shall be discovered. This body of officers are men of enterprise and skill ; and sup- ported by the best seamen in Spanish America, great results are anticipated from the voyage ! On the 5th of May, 1602, the fleet sails from Acapulco. Strong head winds and currents buffet them for many days ; but on the 19th of May, they reach Puerta La Navidad, and put in to obtain ballast and repair the Capitana. All which being dispatched with the utmost speed, they proceed on their voyage and reach Cape Corrientes on the 26th of May. Having surveyed this coast, and the adjacent country, they sail northward to the Islands of Mazatlan. These they reach on the 22d of June. They are two in number, lying near each other, and making a fine rpadstead between them and the main shore. In this the Capitana and Almiranta come to anchor. The frigate having been separated from them soon after leaving Navidad, they fear she is lost ; but they are glad to find her lying in a river which empties into this roadstead. The officers and priests visit one of the islands. Great num- bers of sea birds, about the size of a goose, having a bill nearly half a yard in length, legs resembling those of the stork, and a large crop in which they carry small fish to their young, cover the beach ; deer and wild goats abound inland* These islands lie at the entrance of the Gulf of California. T nez admiral. Botk skill. Two ships, , and a frigate built es a barco longo for services as cannot barefooted Carmel- 'adre Antonio de la I, accompany the ex- iers ; and Capt. Alon- (le Alarcon, as coun- le expedition. Capt. it as draughtsman of I shall be discovered. se and skill ; and sup- America, great results sails from Acapulco. them for many days ; ierta La Navidad, and Capitana. All which 1, they proceed on their on the 26th of May. idjacent country, they an. These they reach n number, lying near ad between them and and Almiranta come to arated from them soon . lost ; but they are glad lies into this roadstead, e islands. Great num- a goose, having a bill isembling those of the carry small fish to their Id goats abound inland. e Gulf of California. T 1KAVKI, f* I W 1 II E C A L I PO R N I AS. 129 Having passed a part of the day among them, they steer ■cross the mouth of the Gulf, and on the 9th of July make Cape San Lucas. As they stand in, a heavy fog falls upon them, and completely conceals the shore. For a day and a half they lie thus enveloped, out of sight of each other, and in great (hinger. At length it clears up a little, and the Al- miranta discovers that she is within twenty-five fathoms of a reef of locks, on which she barely escapes being dashed in pieces. Having borne away from so fearful a doom, they en- ter a bay wliere thi-y rejoice to find the frigate already an- chored. This is the day of San Barnabe, and accordingly the harbor is nameil in honor of that saint. Their attention is soon attracted to the natives, who, armed with bows, arrows, and spears, line the shore, shouting fiercely, and throwing sand in the air. General VLscayno lands with twelve soldiers, the priests and oflScers. But the natives are so intimidated by the lightt I matches and arque- buses that they are near losing all communication with them, when Padre Antonio de la Ascencion, advancing alone, mak- ing signs of peace and friendship, induces them to stop, em- braces them all kindly, and gives assurance that no harm is intended them. They now lay down their arms, and intimate that the soldiers must do the same before they will advance. The Padre conveys this wish to his friends, and calls a little negro boy to bring a basket of biscuit to distribute among them. At sight of the negro they are greatly pleased, and tell him, by signs, that there is a village of people like him- self not far thence, with whom they are on friendly terms. Having received beads and other presents, they retire to their rancherias, or settlements, much pleased, though apparently not entirely free from apprehension. After this, the general and others walk about to examine the shore. Not far distant they observe a pond of clear water, on the borders of which lie great quantities of sardine and pilchard, which have been thrown up by the breakers. The next day they visit another SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. Bpot, where they find the shore for some distance strewn with pearl oysters of the most brilliant and various hues. The little fleet lies in this bay several days to repair, and take in wood and water. The boats, meantime, are kept constantly abroad taking fish. Soles, lobsters, pearl oysters, &c., are procured. The quail, wood-pigeon, rabbits, hares, deer, lions, tigers, are seen on the hills; various kinds of trees, as the pitahaya, fig, lentisk, and a great variety of plum shrubs, which, instead of gum, emit a very fragrant odor, grow in the valleys. In the vicinity of the anchorage is a low tract of ground subject to be inundated by the sea, dur- mg the prevalence of the southwesterly winds. Its shape is such that when the waves retire a large quantity of water is left, which evp^^orates and leaves a deposit of fine white salt. The Indiana of this region go entirely naked. They are, however, extremely fond of ornamenting their hair, and of painting their bodies in black and white stripes. Having finished the repairs about the time the moon changes, and having by the distribution of goods produced a^ avoi'able state of feeling among the soldiers, the Captam-" General, about the first of July, orders the squadron to put to sea. But they run only three leagues, when a northwest- erly wind springs up, which soon increases to such a gale that they are compelled to put back into the bay of San Barnabe. Three times they stand out, and as often are com- pelled to return. At last they determine to leave the barco lonly of this miserable search of their corn- high barren moun- iriety of color, on a a sailor from Peru, re very desirous to I wind will not per- irhich they name San Cnsign Alarcon and inly thing they find gum, which being t think worth taking r, and report enouj:ft it is to be found on * search for the lost ) anchor at the island r sails, Padre Tomas roaching them. The board both ships at at she has been lying lat she has just wcigh- the island in search .food, water, salt, &c., id. Accordingly, the id harbor. Here the : for the Padres, and ul so remote, that the id Sergeant Miguel de TRATKL8 IN THE CALirORNIAS. 133 1 Legnr with twelve soldiers, over the island, to sec if there be oot some sprmg or stream more acccssihif. After a long seanJi tlii'y report the discovery of a rivulet about two leagues distant. Everything is now ordered on board and the fleet proceeds at once to the mouth of the ■tream. While they are taking in water, the General orders the frigate to make the circuit o( the island. On their return, the cosmographer reports it to be about thirty leagues in cir- cumference, to have high mountains covered with cedar and pine, and to be inhabited by savages, who answered all their signs of peace with the most threatening gestures. On the main coast a large bay was observed, which seemed to run far inland. All the ships of the fleet being supplied with water, they set sail on the ninth of September. Their course is northerly, towards the main shore. They make it on the eleventh, and discover a fine bay, which they call San Ilypo- lito. Anchois are dropped and preparations made for sur- veys. For this purpose the General orders some soldiers ashore under Capt. Peguero and Ensign Alarcon. The coun- try is found very beautiful. A broad and well-beaten road leads inland from the coast to a large hut covered with palra- •eaves, capable of containing fifty persons. While returning to the ship they take a great quantity of the best fish, on which all hands feast sumptuously. Thus fed, and joyful that they have fcnind so desirable a country, they raise anchors and stand up tl e coast. As they sail along they see many large fires, which they deem an indication that Indian villages are numerous. But they have proceeded a few leagues only, when a violent gale springs up from the northwest, which compels them to run in under some lofty hills bordering the sea. To the southeast of this anchorage is seen a line of white cliffs on which there appear to be a great number of Indians. The General, there- fore, orders the frigate in shore with the cosmngrapher to take ; chart of the coast and ascertain the condition of the natives. On coming in close 'inder the heights she is becalmed at such 134 SCENES FN THE H A (' I F I C a distance from the shore that they cannot hind. The sea, meanwhile, running very high outside, obliges the ships to lie to for twenty-four hours, during which time the frigate drifts out of sight and the Alniiranta is near fountlering. In the morn- ing they endeavor to continue their voyage. But the wind increases till evening, when a thick fog envelopes earth, sea, and ships. The Aliniranta being in much jeopardy from the in- juries received the previous night, the General determines to look for some harbor where they may be secure against the heavy storm presaged by the fog. He finds none; but much to their surprise, the following day opens clear, and with a gentle breeze, which carries them ofTthe Mesas, near which the frigate left them. TI.c promises of fair weather, however, prove very deceitful ; for beibie night a gale, more violent than any they have experienced, and accompanied by a thick fog, overtakes them. The ships lie to all night under reefed mainsails ; but before morning they lose sight of each other. The General now makes every effort lo fall in wi(h the Alniiranta ; and keeping close in shore for (his purjwse, very unexpectedly meets the frigate. But as he gets no tidings of the ship, his fears for her safety are not lessened. He there- fore puts into a fine harbor which they have discovered north- west of Cape Enganno, and there awaits her. He believes that, if still in a sailing condition, she must, by pursuing her instructions in regard to her course, necessarily pass near the mouth of this bay. They call this harbor Bahia de San Fran- cisco. In a rancheria near the anchorage they find a species of onions. Goats' horns, also, are strewn over the ground. The surrounding country is level, fertile, and very beautiful. The plains are fed by large herds of cattle and deer. The crew of the frigate point out an island a little north of the anchorage which they call San Geronimo ; and the Captain- General orders some of the seamen ashore to examine it. It proves to be heavily wooded, and frequented by immense flocks of birds. Its shoals abound in the finest cod and other fish Of these they take a supply for all the ships. Beyond the T TRAVEi-S IN THE CAUIFORN A8 135 M F IC lot hmd. The sea, ges the ships to lie to the frigite drifts out ;ring. In the morn- age. But the wind ?nvelopes earth, sea, jeopardy from the in- Jeneral determines to be secure against the ds none; but much to ar, and with a gentle near which the frigate , however, prove very violent than any they a thick fog, overtakes reefed mainsails ; but other. fort to fall in with the for this purjiose, very s he gets no tidings of t lessened. He there- have discovered north- tits her. He believes must, by pursuing her cessarily pass near the bor Bahia de San Fran- age they find a species rewn over the ground, ile, and very beautiful, cattle and deer. The ad a little north of the limo ; and the Captain- ;hore to examine it. It jented by immense flocks lest cod and other fish the ships. Beyond the island they discover a large bay into which a considerable creek empties itself with a strong current. The frigate goes in to survey it. They observe great numbers of naked Indi- ans fiihing in the creek, who approach the Spaniards with the liveliest marks of joy, offer them the best of their fish, and show them several wells of pure fresh water. When these things are reported to Captain Viscayno, he orders a tent to be pitched for the celebration of mass, and preparations made to lie here till the Almiranta comes up, or all hope of her is lost. They take in wood and water. Every morning the Indi- ans bring them' a supply of fish for the day, and pay such deference to the Spaniards, that they never visit the rancherias in the neighborhood, without first soliciting the permission of the General and the Padres. The Spaniards return their courtesy with trifling presents, which enlist their wonder and admiration so deeply, that immense numbers of Indian men, and women with two infants each, flock from the neighboring rancherias ; pronounce Spanish words after the soldiers ; eat with them ; and in other ways show a disposition to culti- vate the most friendly and intimate acquaintance. The fe- males are clad in skins, and show much propriety of conduct. These Indians carry on a considerable trade with their inland neighbors by furnishing them with fish, and receiving in re- turn net purses, curiously wrought, and a root called mexcalli or maguey, boiled and prepared as a conserve. Of both these articles they give great quantities to the Spaniards in return for the beads and other trifles. They in- form their visitors that up in the country there are a great many people who wear clothes and beads, and have fire-arras. They are supposed to refer to Onate's land expedition from Mexico. Having now abandoned all hope of the Almiranta, it being twenty-eight days since she parted from them, the General, on the twenty-fourth of October, stands out to sea. Just as he leaves the bay, to his great astonishment and joy, the long absent ship is seen approaching. 136 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC Being now all united again, the General gives orders ♦ continue the voyage, and run into the first harbor discovered. They soon see a large bay, which the tender is ordered to ex ■ plore. It is well sheltered from the northwest winds ; but as its shores are lined with great numbers of warlike Indians instead of landing they proceed up the coast. A north wester, however, soon obliges them to put back, and come to anchor. This being the anniversary of St. Simon and St Jude, they give the name of both saints to the bay. The next morning Captain Peguero and Ensign Alarcon are sent ashore with some soldiers to look for wood and fresh water. Fmd- ing none of the latter, they dig some wells in a moist spot overgrown with sedge and flags. While doing this, the Indians seem very brisk and bold; but do not molest the Spaniards till some presents are offered them. Construing this act into a sign of fear on the part of their visitors, they at once become impudent, attempt to steal, and even go so far as to try to take one of the boats from the boys who are left in charge of it. To deter them from further violence, one of the soldiers, as they are going off to the ship, fires his piece in the air. But the Indians finding no one hurt, grow more insolent than ever ; and the next day when a small party goes on shore to obtain water, they become so very trouble- some that two soldiers who have their matches lighted order Ihem to stand back. But this only increases their audacity. One of them throws his bow over the head rf a soldier. The ,,ilGt draws his sabre, and severs it. They now draw up m form, and place their arrows on their bow-strin(j. The soldiers, who have lighted matches, are ordered to fire upon them! In a moment six Indians lie bleeding upon the sand! Their companions snatch them up and bear thein ""^The news of this occurrence spreads like the wind among the neighboring rancherios, and in a short time two hundred Indians painted fiercely, wearing pl-- upon their heads and armed v^ith bows and arrows, rush down to attack the I Fl C . eral gives orders* 5t harbor discovered, der is ordered to ex • rthwest winds; but i of warlike Indians lie coast. A north lit back, and come to f St. Simon and St ) the bay. The next larcon are sent ashore fresh water. Find- ells in a moist spot 'hile doing this, the it do not molest the iA them. Construing of their visitors, they teal, and even go so rom the boys who are a further violence, one to the ship, fires his ig no one hurt, grow ay when a small party ;come so very tro\ible- raatches lighted, order creases their audacity, lead rf a soldier. The They now draw up in ,cir bow-strings. The •e ordered to fire upon lie bleeding upon the ;m up and bear them As like the wind among short time two hundred umes upon their heads, ush down to attack the TRAVELS fN THE CALIFORNIAS. 137 Spaniards. The Ensign, on seeing them, orders his men to make ready The Indians, however, do not relish the ap- pearance of the arquebuses, and remain at a distance, talk- ing and gesticulating in the most earnest manner. At length tlicy send one of their number witli a little tlog, in token cf their desire to make peace. The man, while making the treaty, eyes the arquebuses very keenly, and signifies that four of his people are already deceased, and others dying of their wounds ; and in token of their sincere wish not to hear from these gods of fire again, he makes a number of presents to the soldiers who bear them, and retires. The squadron leaves the bay on Wednesday the first of November. Continuing along the coast, they come to the mouth of a very large bay, sheltered on all sides, except the sea-ward one, by lofty mountains. It is protected at the entrance by two islands, which they call Todos Santos. The frigate and the Alrairanta run in to make surveys. But the Capitana standing olT, and night approaching, they dread another separation so much that they put out and rejoin the General. The next morning preparations are made to enter it again, for a more deliberate examination. But a favorable breeze springing up, they conclude to leave it for their re- turn, and continue the voyage. On the fifth of November they fall in with four islands, which they call Coronadas. On the tenth they enter the fa- mous harbor of San Diego. The day after their arrival, En- sign Alarcon, Captain Peguero and eight soldiers are sent out to explore. They first direct their stops to a heavy forest which lies on the northwest side of the bay. This is ascer- tained to be about three leagues in width and half a one in breadth. The trees are chiefly oaks, with an undergrowth of fragrant shrubs. Obtaining a fine view of the bay from the heights, they ascertain it to be spacious, land-locked, and every way desirable; and returning to the ships, report such to be its character. This result being deemed satisfactory by the jreneral, he orders a tent pitched on shore for the celebra- 138 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC tion of mass, and preparation to be made for repairing the ships. One part of the crews therefore is assigned to clean and tallow the hulls, another to fill the water casks, and another to procure wood and keep guard. One day when each department is employed at its appoint^ cd task, a sentinel posted in the forest sees a large "body of Indians coming along the shore, naked, painted with red and white colors, and armed with bows and arrows. In order if possible, to avoid bloodshed, the General desires Padre Anto- nio to go and offer them peace. He is accompanied by En- sign Juan Francisco and six soldiers. Signs of peace being made with a bit of white linen, the Indians immediately de- liver their arms. The Padre embraces them all affectionate- ly ; and thus the best understanding is at once established. But observing so large a number of persons on board the ships, they retire in much apprehension ; and after consulting some time together, send two of their women alone to the tent. They approach with a timid air ; but being kindly re- ceived and presented with beads, biscuit, &c., they return and make such a report to their people as soon brings the whole troop down to the water side. They are generally naked ; the"i' bodies striped with white and black paint; and their heads loaded with feathers. Their light paint seems to the voyagers, to be compounded of silver and other materials ; and on being asked what it is, they give the Spaniards a piece of metallic ore, saying, "it is made from this." They add that far up in the country there are many people, wearing beads and clothes like theiis, who make of this metal such ornaiiicnts as the Gt-neia! has un his purple velvet doublet. All desirable preparations being made, they sail from this beautiful bay of San Diego. While they have tarried in it, many of the crew who had been sick of the scurvy, have re- covered, and many others have died. It is a sorrowful occa- sion for those who still live, to part from the graves of their companions. 1 hey are interred on the borders of the magni- ficent forest northwest of the bay ; and the well known trees T FIC TKAVELS IN THE CAIIFORNIAS. 1S9 e for repairing the IS assigned to clean e water casks, and loyed at its appoint- lees alarge'body of tainted with red and rrows. In order if desires Padre Anto- accompanied by En- igns of peace being ians immediately de- ihem all affectionate- , at once established, persons on board the ; and after consulting women alone to the ( but being kindly re- ;, &c., they return and soon brings the whole are generally naked ; lack paint; and their ht paint seems to the and other materials; e the Spaniards a piece from this." They add many people, wearing ,ke of this metal such )Uipie velvet doublet, ide, they sail from this they have tarried in it, of the scurvy, have re- It is a sorrowful occa- :rom the graves of their tie borders of the magni- nd the well known treea vhich spread their branches over them, are discernible aa they leave the laud ! They scarcely clear the headlands of the harbor when a terrible northwester comes down upon them and changes their grief to fear. They see another voy- age begun which may terminate their own lives. But they keep their course and soon make another large bay. It is surrounded by a level, beautiful country, the inbnbitants of which make fires on the heights along the coast, a. id by every sign in their power, invite the fleet to anchor. On approach- ing the land, however, they find no shelter from the northwest wind and stand out again to sea. A few leagues brings them to the large island of Santa Catarina. On the twenty-eighth they anchor in the bay. The in- habitants of Santa Catarina make the most noisy and earnest invitations for them to land. The General therefore orders Admiral Gomez, Capt. Peguero, and Ensign Alarcon, with twenty-four soldiers, to land on the island, and learn what the natives so earnestly desire. As soon as they reach the shore, they are surrounded by Indian men and women, who treat them with much kindness and propriety, and intimate that they have seen other Spaniards. When asked for water they give it to the whites in a sort of bottle, made of rushes. They explore the island. It appears to be overgrown with savin and a species of briar. A tent is pitched for religious service, and Pache Tomas being ill. Padres Antonio and An- drez celebrate mass in presence of all the people. These In- dians spend much of their time in taking the many varieties of fish which abound In the bay. They have boats made of plank, capable of containing twenty persons. In these they carry long slender poles, to which harpoons of fish-bone are attached by long ropes. They strike wLh the harpoon and pay out rope till the fish is unable to run longer, and then if it be small, take it into the boat, or if large tow it ashore. They prize the sea-wolf most highly, as well on account of its flesh, which th«Y eat, as its skin, of which they make most ot their clothing. 140 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. I I T 1 The women of this tribe are beautiful, modest, and ex- tremely well conducted. The chiltlren have fine complexioni and are very amiable. They live in large huts, dispersed m ran.herias, and have many convenient utensils made of rushes Their island abounds in a small root resembling the common potato, which is much prized as an article of food. On this island is a very large level em-losure, with an altar in the centre surrounded by a circular wall or partition of various colored feathers. Within this circle is a figure painted with a -, they tiiitl )UHtains, white at the se. This range they lies heyond it a river he sea. Its hanks are rillow, birch, and pine. harbor, between which eavy pine wood, I'oim- 5. In this harbor the ;rews are very much and mate of the Al- • births; the Captain- 1 to appear on deck ; a s are very sick ; and lia de San Francisco, ed that tne Aimiranta id of Admiral Gomez, hazar, and all the sick ; r of sound men to man TRAVELS IM THE C A L I f R N C A S . 143 her ; and that the rest shall go on board of the Capitana and frigate. The General will send advices and a chart of all his discoveries, with a request that a reinforcement and supplies may be sent on early in the spring, to enable him to complete the survey of the coast and Gulf. In accordance with this arrangement the sick are put on board with great care; Padre Thomes de Aquino is assigned to accompany them, and on the twenty-ninth of January the Aimiranta sets sail for Acapulco. Th. disease which preys so distressingly and fatally on the ships' crews is one of a very singular character. It is supposed to arise from the action of the cold winds of this region upon the relaxed constitutions of persons who come into it from warmer climates. The pa- tient is seized with violent pains throughout the system, which are soon followed by such extreme sensibility as forbids the slightest touch. This latter symptom is often so excruciating as to draw tears and groans from the stoutest men. Soon after this the surface becomes spotted with an eruption of a purple color, fine and sharp, feeling as if shot were inserted under the skin. These are followed by wales or lines of the same color, similar to those raised by the infliction of severe blows. They are about the width of two fingers ; appear first on the upper posterior portion of the thigh ; but soon spread themselves to the flexure of the knee. V.'herever they appear the parts become rigid, and remain in the position in which they were first seized. The whole system now swells prodigiously, and the patient cannot be moved in any manner without suffering extreme torture. The disease finally ex- tends itself to all parts of the body, affecting particularly the shoulders, head and loins, and causing the most distressing pains in the Kidneys. No relief can be obtained by change of position ; for the slightest motion is agony. In time the entire body is covered with ulcers so exceedingly sensitive that the pressure of the lightest bed covering is intolerable. At length the gums and jaws swell so that the mouth cannot be closed, and in manj cases the teeth droo out ! The vio- I; V 144 8CKNK8 IN THK PACIFIC lence of the disease and the debility arising from it arc such, that the patients frequently r Cape San Lucas. He •uary, and standing directly TRAVKI. • IN r II E C A I. I roll N I A «. 147 .oross the mouth of the Gulf, enters a harlnir near the island of Rta/utiaii oil the stveiiti-tiilh of the same month, An account of his condition being sent to tlie Viceroy, he determines to go in person to San Sebastian, a village about eight leagues from the harbor, for more immediate aid. He starts on the nine- teenth with five of his soldiers. Hut being utterly ignorant of the country, tliey tulve the wrong path, aiiti wander two days in the wooti without food or water. At length they fall into a broad beaten road, ami while resting themselves by the way- side, a drove of mules, laih n with provisions, comes along. These are going from Castile to Cu!iacan. The General learns from the muleteers that an old friend of his has be(;ome the Alcalde of the latter place, and immtdiately accepts their •iFer to convey himself and soldiers thither. At this town they are furnished with every comfort for thimselves and those on board the ship. The poor seamen and Padres ! They are now reduced to the most lamentable condition ! Helpless, covered wilh ulcers, and unable to speak or eat ! Among other things that are sent them, is a kind of fruit which is considered a specific for this disease. It bears among the natives the cognomen, Xocohuiltzes. It resembles an apple. The leaves of the plant are exactly like those of the pineapple. The fruit grows in clusters. The rind or shell is yellow, and contains a pulp full of seeds. Its tlavor is slightly tart. Its medical properties are such that it cleanses the mouth reduces the gums, fastens the teeth, heals the ulcers, purifies the blood, &c. Its virtues were acci- dentally discovered by an officer who was attending the burial of a victim to this frightful disease, from his own ship. He was himself somewhat infected, and passing under a tree, plucked and ate some of the fruit. In a few minutes he voided from the mouth a large quantity of purulent matter, mingled with blood. The soreness was at the same time much relieved, and the gums contracted upon the teeth so that they no longer rattled in his mouth. The poor seamen and soldiers have suiiered most deplorably from this malady. By the use «CENE8 IN THE PACIFIC. of this fruit tL cy begin to recover. Nor have the Padres been less afflicted. Such is the condition of their hands and mouths, that the crucifixes which they have held and often caressed, while the disease has been devouring their frames, are covered with a filthy gore ! Their couches, as well as those of the crew, are masses of putrid matter ! But now all are creep- bg on deck ; the ship and its appurtenances are cleansed ; their rotting frames begin to heal! On the 21st of March they are so far restored that the Capitana puts to sea, and after a pleasant sail of eight days, moors in the bay of Aca- pulc). When her anchor runs, and the pallid forms of th« few survivors are seen at the bulwarks, the horrid spectacle chills every tongue! The people gather on the shore in silence. But soon mothers call the names of those who, many months before, have been buried in the sea ! Fathers seek their sons whose graves the wolves have opened in the forest of San Diego ! >*, lothers, in the excess of maternal sorrow, demand of the Captain-General their offspring, who have fall- en, muscle and bone, morsel by morsel, before the terrific pestilence ! A few recognize among the living, the disfigured countenances of their friends, and rushing on board embrace them with loud lamentations ! The Aimiranta rides hard by The frigate arrives in as deplorable a state as the Capitana. Her crew is reduced to a number scarcely sufficient to remem- ber the sufferings and the names of those who have died. Thus terminates the voyage of Viscayno. He has explored tk« whole Pacific coast of Upper and Lower California. C I PI c . ir have the Padres been their hands and mouths, !ld and often caressed, heir frames, are covered s well as those of the But now all are creep- rtenances are cleansed ; On the 21st of March ipitana puts to sea, and oors in the bay of Aca- ;he pallid forms of th« ks, the horrid spectacle ;ather on the shore in iraes of those who, many the sea ! Fathers seek ave opened in the forest ess of maternal sorrow, offspring, who have fall- orsel, before the terrific the living, the disfigured shing on board embrace Aimiranta rides hard by I state as the Capitana. cely suflScient to remem- )f those who have died, lyno. He has explored Lower California. CHAPTER IX. A.D. 1615— A.D. 1C33-4— Don Pedro Portel de Cassanate— A.D. 1G47— AD. lGGG-7— A.D. 1G83— Indians— A Baitle— All busy— Orders from Mexico — Ships (ii-:]in(c)ied — A Garrison and Church — An Elx- pedition into the Interior— Despatches arrive— A Determination- Padre Kino— Padre Juan Maeua Salva Tiehra— The Jesuits— Powers granted— Sai.va Tiehka goes to Calil'ornia— The Ilesurrcciion— Inso- lence— An Attack— A Repulse— A General Onset— A Route— Peace- Arrival of Padre Piccolo— An Exploration— Condition of the Conquest Salva Tiehra goes to Senora for Food— An Expedition to the Gila and Colorado of the West by Padres Kino and Salva Tiebra— Return to Senora — Padre Salva Tierra leaves for California— Another Expedi- tion to the Gila and Colorado by Padres Kino and Gonzales— Indians and Rivers— Death— Last Days of Padre Kino— A lost Grave. No other expedition of any moment is undertaken to Cali- fornia until 1615, when Captain Juan Iturbi obtains a license for making a voyage at his own expense. One of his two ships is captured by a Dutch pirate. With the other he reaches the coast of Cinaloa, and procures supplies from a Je- suit Missionary, Padre Ribas, preparatory to crossing the Gulf. But before leaving port he is ordered out to convoy the Philippine ship to Acapulco. This done, he returns to Mexico, and by exhibiting the pearls he has taken fires anew the wonder and cupidity of the whole country. The Califor- nian pearl fisheries are soon thronged. A few find what they desire, but an infinitely greater number are disappointed. The results, however, lead to the granting of a license to Francisco de Ortega to make a voyage up the Gulf. He sails in March, 1632. Accompanying him is Padre Diego de la Nava, the newly appointed Vicar-general of California. On the second of May they land at San Barnabe bay ; and having made a special survey of the coast from this point to SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. La Paz and purchased some pearls of the Indians, they touch at Cinaioa, and in June go thence to report their proceedings to the Viceroy. In 1633 end '34, Capt. Ortega makes two other voyages for the purpose of forming a settlement in Cali- fornia ; but finds the country so barren that he is obliged to abandon his design. He now proposes to have a garrison es- tablished at some proper point for colonization, and a sum of money granted from the royal treasury to maintain settlers for a definite period. But while he is agitating these measures, he has the mortification to learn that his pilot, Carboneli, has not only obtained a license for making a voyage, but asserts the practicability of settling the country farther north, with- out depending on the government for supplies. This pilot sails in 1636 ; but to his chagrin nowhere finds such a coun- try as he has promised ; and, after obtaining a few pearls, re- turns to confess his failure. After this, an expedition is undertaken at His Majesty's ex- pense. The governor of Cinaioa receives orders to pass over to California and survey the islands, bays, coast and face of the country, preparatory to making a chart for the use of na- vigators. He does so. Padre Jacinto Cortez, a missionary of Cinaioa, accompanies him in order to ascertain if it be practicable to Christianize the Indians. They complete the 8i"rv»iy in July, 1642, and soon after send their charts, pearls, and other things procured, to the Viceroy. A change is now taking place at Mexico. The Viceroy, Don Diego Lopez Pacheco, Marquis de Villena and Duke of Esclona, returns to Spain under suspicion, and is succeeded by Don Juan de Palafox. The Marquis successfully vindi- cates himself against the malicious charges of his enemies, and procures an expedition to California to be ordered under Admiral Don Pedro Portel de Cassanate. This man is em- powered to build and equip fleets, and make settlements in California, and do such other acts as he may deem best calcu- lated to bring the natives of that country into the church. The M CI FIC . e Indians, they touch art their proceedings ;. Ortega makes two a settlement in Cali- that he is obliged to to have a garrison es- ization, and a sum of .0 maintain settlers lor iting these measures, s pilot, Carboneli, has ■ a voyage, but asserts ry farther north, with- supplies. This pilot ere finds such a coun- ining a few pearls, re- en at His Majesty's ex- ,ves orders to pass over )ays, coast and face of chart for the use of na- ;o Cortez, a missionary >r to ascertain if it be s. They complete the end their charts, pearls, ;roy. Mexico. The Viceroy, le Villena and Duke of icion, and is succeeded rquis successfully vindi- charges of his enemies, rnia to be ordered under sanate. This man is em- and make settlements in he may deem best calcu- itry into the church. The TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS, 151 spiritual welfare of this expedition is committed to Padres Jacinto Cortez and Aiidrez Baes, Mi.ssionaiios of Ciualoa. Having arrived at Ciiialoa,Cas>sanate receives instructions to go out and meet the Pliilippine ship which it is feared will fall into the hands of English or Dutch jiirates. He brings her safely in ; and while he is making preparations to sail again to California, two ol' his ships are burned. Discourag- ing as this circumstance is, he resolves not to be defeated by it. Two others are built at Ciaaloa in 1647-8, in which he sails to the place of destination. But he finds the country, as far as he explores it, barren and dry. Before he completes his survey, however, he receives orders /.o go a second time and conduct a Philippine ship into Acapulco. This done, he proceeds to lay the resultii of his expedition before the Viceroy. This excellent man is soon after promoted to the Govern- ment of Chili ; and California is neglected till lb65, when Philip IV. again orders its reduction. The execution of this eflibrt is entrusted to Don Bernado Bernal de Pinadero. But the Spanish treasury is now exhausted ; the nation and its colonies are impoverished. Two small vessels only, therefore, are built in the Valle de Venderas. In 1666 they sail to the coast, rob the poor natives of some pearls, and make their way back to report that expedition also, a failure. The Queen mother, acting as Regent, orders Pinadero to make another attempt. In this he is accompanied by the eel' brated Padke Kino. This likewis. results in nothing valuable. L» the fol- lowing year Francisco Luzenilla obtains a license for a voy- age at his own expense. This proves, like all others, fruit- less of results worthy of note. In 1667, the importance of making a settlement in California for a rendezvous of ships trading to the Philippine Islands, is again brought before the Council of the Indies ; and it is finally determined to instmct the Viceroy and the Archbishop of Mexico to send out Admi ral Pinadero again, if he will give security for the perform- ance of that duty according to the decrees of Council; and if he decline, to make the offer to any person who will undex- 153 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. take it, at his own expense ; and if none so offer, it ir ordered to be accomplished at the expense of the crown. Admiral Pinadero having refused, Admiral Otondo accepts the proposi- tion. The spiritual Government is conferred on the Jesuits. Padre Kino as superior, and Padres Copart and Goni accom- pany the expedition. They put to sea from Chacala on the eighteenth of May 1683, and in fourteen days reach La Paz. They think it singular, on landing, not to see any Indians; but as soon as they begin to erect a garrison, considerable numbers appear, armed and hideously painted, who intimate by signs that the Spaniards must leave their country. After some effort, how- ever, on the part of the Padres, and uniform kindness from the officers, soldiers and seamen, their intercourse becomes apparently unconstrained and friendly. Soon, however, cir- cumstances occur which arouse suspicion. The reported murder of a mulatto boy, added to some indignities towards the garrison, indicate the need of great watchfulness on the part of the voyagers. Danger lurks near them. The Guaya- curos among whom they sojourn, offer to unite with their enemies, the Coras, for the extirpation of the Spaniards. The Coras appear to entertain the proposition, but report it to the Admiral on their earliest opportunity. The soldiers are thrown into such a panic by the discovery of this plot, that the Admi- ral and Padres are obliged to exert all fheir authority and persuasion to induce them to 'meet the event with fortitude. The day of the intended massacre arrives. The Indians ap- pear, to the number of thirteen or fourteen hundred. A pa- derero, or cannon, is fired among them, by which ten or twelve are killed and several wounded. The remainder retire in confusion to their rancherias. The garrison is safe; no one even wounded. But this victory does not discourage their fear of the Indians. The dry crags, the treeless sands and thirsty torrent-chasms are, to the anxious minds of the timid men, peopled with forms of death ; and every howl of the lean wolf upon the heights, grates like ACIFIC. le SO offer, it if ordered the crown. Admiral do accepts the proposi- inferred on the Jesuits. )part and Goni accom- le eighteenth of May 1 Paz. They thinlc it idians ; but as soon a* rable numbers appear, imate by signs that the After some effort, how- liform kindness from the r intercourse becomes f. Soon, however, cir- spicion. The reported )me indignities towards eat watchfulness on the lear them. The Guaya- fferto unite with their n of the Spaniards. The lion, but report it to the The soldiers are thrown ■ this plot, that the Admi- ; all their authority and the event with fortitude, rrives. The Indians ap- ourteen hundred. A fa- thera, by which ten or junded. The remainder icherias. The garrison But this victory does Indians. The dry crags, rrent-chasms are, to the opled with forms of death ; )on the heights, grates like TRAVELS IN T il K C A I. I F O U N I A S 153 a coffin screw on their ears. Otondo is, therefore, obliged to Weigh anchor lor ili.i.|m on thu SiMima slioic. Here he sells all his pearls, aiui pledges his plate tor stores. Like a brave man bent on his end, he seeks again the Californian shore, and on the sixth of October anchors at San Bruno Bay, in Lat. 1Q° 30'. On the same day, Otondo, the three Padres, and some sol- diers, explore for fresh water, and find it in a narrow vale one mile and a half from shore. Near this tliej establish a gar- rison, build a rude church, and some huts. And now Otondo sends two ships to Mexico with an account of his proceed- ings, and a re<[iiest for more money ; takes possession of the country in the name of the king ; goes fifty leagues westward in the month of December among mountains and desert vales; ascends an elevation, where he finds several leasjues of table land, with a temperate climate and a fresh-water lake of small size ; advances Ix'yoiid, on a toilsome journey over steeps and depths, in seaich of a peak from which to see the Pacific Ocean ; fails to do so, and returns to San Bruno. The Indians whom they meet are much deliirhted with the paternal kindness of the Padres. Otondo enijiloys himself a year in like ex- plorations at different points along the coast. The Padres are busy meantime in learning the language of the Indians and instructing them in the Catholic religion. They trans- late the Catechism, teach it to the children, and these in turn teach it to their parents. The voice of heathenism utters prayers to Jehovah on the Californian mountains ! The Padres find no word in their language to represent the resurrection of the dead. That idea has not existed in their minds, and consequently has no expression in their language. Resort is had to a very ingenious method of finding one which will present it. Some flies are immersed in water un- til animation seems extinct. They are then placed among ashes in the heat of the sun till restored to life. The In- dians who witness the operation cry out, Ibirnuhueite ! Ibi- muhueite ! This word or expression is afterward used to 154 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC, represent the resurrection of the Saviour, and conveys to the Indian a clear conception of that holy event. The Padres instruct during the year iour hundred adults and many child- ren, but baptize none except those who are at the door of death. Some of these sick indeed, reco\ er, and prove useful teachers. Most of them, however, die, holding fast their new faith. In these several ways do the priests and Otondo consume the year. At its close, dispatches arrive from the Viceroy requiring an account of proceedings, and forbidding any farther attempts to be made for the conquest and settle- ment of California which should involve the Government in expense. On the reception of these dispatches a council of the Pa- dres and military officers is held, the determination of which is, that a small ship shall be sent with dispatches to Mexico, that the Padres shall continue to teach the Indians, and Oton- do to explore the country and pearl beds. In September, 1685, however, a peremptory order comes prohibiting farther elforts at settling the country, and ordering, if possible, to keep possession of what is already conquered. But it has now become apparent that San Bruno must be abandoned. No rain has fallen for nearly two years ; dearth, thirst, and hunger, stand near them ; and to escape is the settled desire of all, except the priests. These men of iron souls would stay to teach the savage. But Otondo weighs anchor, and with priests, soldiers, seamen, and three native converts, squares his yards for the harbor of Matanchel, on the Mexi- can shore. This is the last expedition of the civil power of Spain to conquer and settle California. Padre Kino has begun to conquer it with the Cross ; and we shall follow him in his triumphs and trials while he achiev(>.« it. The professor of Ingoldstadt, Padrk Kino, the devotee of San Xavior, traverses Mexico preaching to his brother Jesuits the glories of mar- tyrdom, and the rich reward of those who save from wo the doomed and lost In order to forward his zeal, he is ap* — ^Jl^iL_«L_ I F I C . and conveys to the event. The Padres ilts and many child- ) are at the door of * cr, and prove useful ., holding fast their ;e priests and Otondo ches arrive from the dings, and forbidding e conquest and settle- ^e the Government ia a council of the Pa- itermination of which dispatches to Mexico, the Indians, and Oton- beds. In September, mes prohibiting farther irdering, if possible, to onquered. But it has must be abandoned, ars ; dearth, thirst, and ipe is the settled desire en of iron souls would ido weighs anchor, and three native converts, latanchel, on the Mexi- civil power of Spain to DRE KiNO has begun to shall follow him in his rpf! it. The professor of ; of San Xavinr, traverses ?suits the glories of mar- )se who save from wo the ward his zeal, he is ap- r TRAVELS IN THE C A I, I F O K N I A 8 lf)5 pointed to the charge of the Missions on the Senora coast, whence it will be easy to send supplies across the Gulf to the more barren regions of the peninsula. Padre Juan Maria Salva Tierra is designated to lead the way on the California side. He solicits contributions ; obtains Padre Juan Ugarte, a professor in the college at Mexico, as a fellow-laborer ; fif- teen thousand dollars to be pledged the Society of Jesuits for the enterprise ; ten thousand more to be given it as a fund for one mission ; prevails upon the Commissary of the Inqui- sition at (iueretaro, Don Juan Cavalero Y. Ozio, to subscribe funds for two other missions, and obligate himself to pay what- ever bills shall be drawn on him by Padre Salva Tierra. The license for the Jesuits to enter California is granted on the fifth of February, 1627. The special warrants empower- ino Padres Kino and Salva Tierra to enter California are subject to these conditions : that they waste nothing belong- ing to the king, nor draw upon the government treasury with- out express orders from his majesty ; that they take posses- sion of the country, and hold it in the name of the King of Spain. The powers granted them in these warrants are, to enlist soldiers at their own expense ; appoint a commander, whose immunities shall be accounted the same as in time of war ; to commission magistrates for the administration of justice in California ; aad discharge all these from their service at will. With full powers both civil and ecclesiastical, therefore, and the treasury both of the Inquisition and of many private indivi- duals to draw upon. Padre Salva Tierra goes from Mexico to Guadalaxara ; thence to Hiaqui, in Senora ; and thence on the tenth of October, 1697, with five soldiers, Estevan Rodriguez Lorenzo, Bartoleme de Robles Figueroa, Juan Caravana, Nicolas Marques, and Juan, with their commander, D6n Luis de Torres Tortolero, embarks for the scene of his future trials. A great moral hero, with his little band, kneeling in prayer on fne deck of a galliot, bound for the conquest of California ! The sails are loosened to the winds j they leave the harbor ; 1 !56 BCENF. 8 IN THE PACIFIC but they have proceeded haidly a league, when a squall uoinci on, which strands them on the beach. All now appear to be lost. But they save themselves in the long-boat ; and when the tide rises, the galliot floats again, and proceeds on her voyage. A holy voyage is begun ; its consequences are full of hope to man ! On the thirteenth they touch at San Bruno, in California, and at San Dionysio, ten leagues south of San Bruno. Al the latter place, fifty Indians receive them with joy. A fine watering-place, discovered in a deep and fruitful glen, indi- cates the place for an encampment. The provisions, bag- gage, and animals, therefore, are landed, and the barracks of the little garrison built; a line of circumvallation is thrown up, in the centre of which a temporary chapel is raised ; be- fore it a crucifix, adorned with a garland of flowers, is erect- ed ; and " the image of our Lady of Loretto, as patroness of the conquest, is brought in procession from the galliot, and placed with proper solemnity." On the twenty-fifth of Oc- tober, formal possession is taken of the country in the name of the King of Spain. Thus commences the religious conquest of California by Padre Salva Tieuua ; a voluntary exile from the highest cir- cles of European life ; a great man, with a strong and kind heart; abandoning kindred, ease, and intellectual society, for the well-being of the stupid and filthy natives of the Cali- fornian deserts. The Padre now sends the galliot to Hiaqui for Padre Piccolo, some soldiers and provisions. Meantime he applies himself with unceasing assiduity to learning the Indian lan- guage and teaching religion. He pursues the same course as he would with stupid children ; induces them to learn the prayers and catechisms, by rewarding attention and industry with something to eat. By thus addressing their strongest propensity as a stimulant for the acquisition of knowledge, he hopes to awaken and instruct their higher faculties of thought and sense of right. In the latter he, for a time, failii FI C . hen a squall jomci now appear to be ig-boat ; and when 1(1 proceeds on her jiisequences are full Bruno, in California, of San Bruno. Al 'HI with joy. A fine d fruitful glen, indi- The provisions, bag- , and the barracks of imvallation is thrown chapel is raised ; he- ld of flowers, is erect- sretto, as patroness of from the galliot, and lie twenty-filth of Oc- je country in the name [juest of California by le from the highest cir- vith a strong and kind intellectual society, for by natives of the Cali- t to Hiaqui for Padre . Meantime he applies arning the Indian lan- rsuos the same course aa ices them to learn the ; attention and industry dressing their strongest quisition of knowledge, hnir higher faculties of itter he, for a time, fail* TRAVELS r II 1:: C A 1, I K O R N 1 A S 157 For the savages, dissatisfied with the amount of food which the Padre gives them, fall upon the animals of the posi, destroy them, and steal corn from the sacks. Nor are tiiey satisfied with this. They meditate a general attack on the garrison, in order to destroy or drive the people from the country. The good Padre knows their designs, but continues I his kindness. Their insolence increases. On the thirteenth of November, the tribes meet to strike a decisive blow. Four savages come to the camp about noon, while the garri- son are eating. The sentinel tries to prevent their entering the trenches, and one of the boldest of them deprives him of the staff used as a halberd. The soldier cries out, and Tor- tolero running up, wrests it from the Indian with such force and boldness, that the invaders are frightened and retire. At this moment the Indian Alonzo cle Tepahui, who keeps the swine and sheep in a valley overgrown with rushes and flags, is assaulted by another party. But aid being immediately rendered, himself and animals are saved. And now falls a shower of arrows and stones from five hundred Indians, ad- vancing to attack the camp. Ten men and one Californian Indian compose the garrison. And how shall they be so detailed as to meet this numerous force ? Tortolero, the acting commander, stations himself and Bartolerae de Robles on the entrenchment facing the lower part of the valley, the post of greatest danger ; on the oppo- site side are Juan de Peru and the Indian Alonzo de Tepahui ; on the ^-ide looking towards the river, stands the bold and active Indian Marcos Guazavas ; on the remaining side is Estevan Rodrigues ; the Maltese Juan Caravana has the care of the padcrero, or cannon, placed at the gate of the camp ; and near to him is Nicolas Marques, the Sicilian, as assistant gunner; Salva Tierra and Sebastien, his Indian, occupy the centre, in order to give aid where there should be the most need. The forces have barely time to make this disposition of themselves, when the savages begin to advance on all sides, with dreadful shouting and outcries. They are repulsed with as 168 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC, little destruction of life as possible. Padre Salva Tiehra de- sires that course to be pursued. The Indians return to the at- tack repeatedly for two hours, throwing stones, arrows, and wooden javelins into the trenches, when suddenly the whole body retreats and the action ceases. Half an hour elapses, and they return reinforced, and press upon the trenches with rage so fierce and deadly, that the hope of successful resistance with- out the paderero grows faint. The Padre, therefore, consents to have it fired. The match is applied. But instead of de- stroying the Indians, it bursts in pieces and flies about the camp, knocking Juan Caravana senseless to the ground. The Indians against whom it has been levelled, perceive this misfortune, and send notice of it to others with the remark, that since the paderero does not kill, they need not fear the smaller pieces. Of this they, are the more persuaded, because the Padre has ordered the soldiers to shoot over them. And the kind old priest, now that the Captain thinks it necessary to fire into the Indian ranks, rushes between the guns and the savages, beseeching them not to press on sure destruction ! Three arrows shot at him are the reward of his kindness. Happily, the Padre is not injured. But he withdraws and leaves them to their fate. And now they fall before the muskets of the soldiers ! The wounded and dying groan on every side ! A route succeeds ! They fly in confusion to their villages ! Soon after, messengers of peace arrive. The first is a Chief. He weeps ; he talks in broken grief; he acknow- ledges himself the cause of these disturbances ; he first formed the plot, inspirited and drew in the other tribes ; he and they have sought vengeance ; but are now sincerely repentant. Next comes a band of women leading children. They seat themselves at the gate of the camp, and weeping bitterly, and promising good conduct for themselves and their husbands, ofTer the children as hostages. The good Padre is greatly rejoiced to see these signs of sorrow j explains to them inc. RE Salva TiF.^iRA de- ians return to the at- T stones, arrows, and I svuldeniy the whole f an hour elapses, and trenches with rage so essful resistance with- re, therefore, consents But instead of de- :s and flies about the seless to the ground, levelled, perceive this lers with the remark, ley need not fear the ore persuaded, because hoot over them. And n thinks it necessary to een the guns and the i on sure destruction! sward of his kindness. Jut he withdraws and V they fall before the ;d and dying groan on fly in confusion to their arrive. The first is a ken grief; he acknow- irbances ; he first formed ther tribes ; he and they 3W sincerely repentant. ig children. They seat md weeping bitterly, and /es and their husbands, ! good Padre is greatly :ow; explains to them r TRAVELS IN TIIK CALIF0KNIA8. lf>9 i the wickedness of their acts; and promises them peace, friendship, and other good tilings, if their husbands prove true to their league. And receiving one of the children in order to remove all suspicion from their minds, sends them to their friends and homes with shouts and other demonstrations of great joy. And now night comes on in this vast waste of burned mountains ! The little chapel is opened for worship. Special " thanks are returned to God, His most holy mother, and Saint Stanislaus for his manifold favors." On examining the camp nixt morning, it is found " that most of the arrows stick in the pedestal of the cross; whilst the cross itself, and tent which serves for a chapel to ' our lady of Loretto,' are untouched." None of the garrison are kille A C I H C ,e path of this good man. ;raiidsire for a blessing, the village of the Quin- X These Indians show even towards the beastfl inzales is affected to tears s off a part of his own vho follows hini. They :s entrance into the Gulf, vestern shore and entreat auntry. They learn from rney from this place. The int where the river and the rrh and swashes near their n the cracks ; Padre Gon- 1 These Padres have de- nlace, and travel over the But Padre Kino sees the k brother. He succeeds in ributama, where he dies, k^ho goes into its depths to :. The desires of the mind jjects are things of thought laid on the skies! The eye •rtal faith ; is absorbed and everything material. The of the living principle from ich one passes to fields ol pebbly streams, and odorous comes in truth the pass-way 3 proper objects of the moral So this missionary dies, and idian Christians at Tibutama. 1705, Padre Kfno spends in leria, and in resisting the per- icause he will not permit the TRAVKLS IN THE CALIFORNFAS. 107 owners of the mines and plantiitions to enslave his converts. Ilavinjr MO one to assist him in so wiilt; a iirovince, he is al- most constantly tiavollini^" from one mission to another, ex- hoiting, encouraging, disciplining, and protecting his spiritual children. These duties task severely the tottering strength of the good old man. Jiiit he labors without intermission or discouragement, as he ripens for his reward. Nor docs his ardent interest in the Californian missions abate. Every few months he forwards to Loretto iiis largesses of provisions and animals. But as the expense of supporting shipping for that pmpose becomes more and more apparent and perplexing, he determines once more to attempt an exploration of a land route, by which supplies can be sent from the mission on the Gila down the coast to Loretto. Accordingly, in 170G, he tuins his footsteps again towards the Colorado, in company with the chief military officers of Senora, and the Franciscan monk, Manuel de Ojuela. This last expedition of Padke Kino results in confirming his previous discoveries. But be- ing unable to penetrate to Loretto, he returns to his missions, and defends them with the same dauntless courage against the avarice and cruelty of the miners, and the civil and military powers, till 1710, when he passes from the scenes of his be- nevolence and trials to his grave. There are few good men in the world. Consequently, when one of this class dies, there is a jewel lost from the crown of earthly virtue. ALL feel the loss of its light, and grope nearer to the ground in their way onward to their destiny. Padre Kino has given his best energies to the Pimerian and Californian missions. The poor Indians on both sides of the Gulf have been accustomed to eat his bread and receive his blessing. The bells now toll through all Pimeria and Senora, at Loretto and San Xavier. The Indians kneel in their rude chapels, and pray for his soul, and invoke for him the good fellowship of departed saints Padre Kino is buried among the heights of Pimeria, the scene of his trials and hopes. His grave is lost among the driving sands of those desolate re- gions ; but his good deeds will live for ever CHAPTER X. Meeting of PAnnr.s Sai.va TiKun* and Uffarie- A Plot-Bu.Tiinfrof Xavier-Ugurtu at San Xavicr-Faminc-A Runaway-A Mi.rikT- A Campai«n-RojoicinKs-A Tcmpost-An Arrival of Foo.l an,l Sol- diers-Mea>^urcs for thu Advancoinenl of tho ConquRst-Exploration of the Intcvior-Sackin-,' of San Xavier-Massacres-A ConrlMariial- An Execuiion-Peacc-RM't''""^'" '" ^''« Norih-DiMres,s-A Council, and ils Ucsults-En.lurancc-lloaining and Starving-An Altack- SA1.VA TiEanA kaves California-IIis Rctnrn-Ext.-n^ion of the Con- nuest-Ligni, and a great Examplc-A CImstisement-A mnrderotis Attempt-Mulege-Cada Kaaman-The Triumph of the Good-Poi- son — Death. During the absence of Padre Salva Tierha in Pimeria, Padre Ugarte has arrived at Loretto with a few supphes. The meeting of these two men in that distant land is warm and hearty. They have labored long in the same cause- have hoped ardently for the same result— the growth of the tree of life on the shores of California. The one has used his utmost energies at Mexico and Guadalaxara to procure the means to support the other, while breaking up the ground and casting in the seed. And yvhen all his efforts are closing in disappointment, and the dark night of malice is casting gloom over them, and his expectations are giving place to despair, he flies to his fellow-laborer in the wilderness, to die with him, if need be, in a last struggle to bring the Californian Indians within the fold of the Catholic faith. After thanks are rendered to God for the favor of meeting again, the Pa- dres earnestly resolve to sustain the sinking missions. It is agreed, therefore, that Padre Piccolo shall go to Mexico and make farther trial to obtain funds for that purpose. He ac- cordingly puts to sea, but is driven back by a tempest; and again he leaves the harbor, but is again compelled to return. T r TRAVELS IN THE CAI. tFORNIAS. 169 - A Plot— Bu.TJinpof Baa A Runaway— A MiinliT— 1 Arrival of Fnoil and Sol- ; ConquRst— Exploration of nacres— A Court Martial — jrih— Distres.s— A Council, ul Starving— An Attack— irn— Extension of the Con- liastisement— A miirilerous 'riuinph of the Good— Poi- VA TiERSA in Piraeria, 3 with a few supplies, t distant land is warm g in the same cause — jult — the growth of the ia. The one has used luadalaxara to procure breakini; up the ground ill his efforts are closing ;ht of malice is casting 3ns are giving place to in the wilderness, to die e to bring the Californian jlic faith. After thanks meeting again, the Pa- sinking missions. It is shall go to Mexico and )r that purpose. He ac- back by a tempest ; and Tain compelled to return. These unfavorable trials induce him to j)ostpone his voyage to a more favoral)lo si-asoii. He rt-turns, therefore, to his misnion at San Xavier, and Padre Ugarte remains at Loretto with Padke Sai,va Tiekka, to karn tlie Indian language, and assist wherever his services may be needed. Another class of events now transpire which change some- what the aspect of affairs among them, and give hope of better things. The military commandant, who has, by his misrepresentations, rendered abortive the efforts of Padre Ugarte, at Mexico, finds that the authorities will not relieve him from subordination to tlie Padres, and resigns. Captain Don Antonio Garcia de Mendoza is therefore succeeded by one Isadore de Figu»;roa. This man, however, proves unworthy of his trust in a difficulty with the savages of San Xavier. The Indians of that mission plan the murder of Padre Piccolo. And led on by the conjurors, or priests of their old religion, they come down upon the few converts who remain faithful, with such violence as to get possession of the premises j and enraged at the Padre's escape to Loretto, burn the mission buildings and furniture. A number of the converts have been killed in this outbreak ; the fields of San Xavier, the only grounds within the limits of the missions on which grain can be grown, are laid waste ; the success of the savages in this instance will embolden them to attack Loretto. All these, as reasons, determine the Padres to send Captain Figueroa with his soldiers to chastise them and recover the mission. Accordingly he marches his troops to San Xavier. The In- dians flee before him. The soldiers desire to pursue them. But the commander forbids it ; and otherwise shows such a want of courage and manliness, that the soldiers depose him, and elect in his stead, Don Estevan Rodriguez Lorenzo, who leads them in pursuit among the breaks of the moun- tains ; but without success. At the end of this year, 1700, Padre Fgarte having learn- ed the Indian language, and the Indians of San Xavier having become satisfied and peaceable, it is resolved to rebuild the ■ CENE8 IN TIIF. PACIFIC. .nission and put it under his charge. Arconlingly he leavei Lnrctto for thiit purpose. But on arrivimj; there, the Inchans, through fear of the .sohhfs that aci'omj)any him, run into the iiKtuntains. The I'adre, nowise discouraged by this circura> stance, takes up liis quarters on the site of the burned mission, and awaits their rcluni. Meanwhile the soldiers, not having Indians to servo them, prove tro'iblesome. They abuse the Pa(he anil one another in such manner that he determines to trust himself with the Indians, rather than any longer sulItT tlitir insok'iit behavior; and accordingly sends them back to Loretto. After the departure of the soldiers, Padre Ugarte remains alone all day about the ashes of the mission and the graves of those who were killed at the time it was destroyed ! He does not know how Roon they will fall upon him likewise, and take his lil'e. Night comes on and passes away ; and he is yet alone. At daylight a httle Indian lad comes shyly, about the Padre's couch ; is treated kindly by him; examines the fields, and hastily returns to his tribe: and shortly afterward the good Padre is surrounded by hun- dreds of Indians rejoicing at his arrival, and protesting that soldiers are disagreeable members of their community. The Padre and the Indians now unite their energies to rebuild the mission. The first lal)or of Ugarte is, to secure their regular attendance on the catechising, the prayers and mass; and by kind and allable treatment, lo alienate them from their sorcer- ers ; the second is, to accustom fhein to till the land and take care of the cattle. To accomplish these objects he induces them early in the morning to attend mass ; after which he feeds those who will engage in erecting the church or clear- ing the land for cultivation, or making trenches for irrigation, or digging holes for planting trees, or preparing the ground for sowing seed. In the progress of these labors the good Padre works more than any of them. He is overseer, brick- layer and farmer. He is first in bringing stones, first in treading clay for mortar, in mixing sand, cutting, carrying, bringing timber, removing earth and fixing materials ; some- r F I c . conrmirly he leavei itr (hcrf, the Indians, ifiy liiin, run into the aged by this circum- t the burned mission, 3 soldiers, not having le. They abuse the r that he determines her than any longer :ordingly sends them if tlie sohliers, Pa(he aslies of the mission :d at the time it was on they will tall upon t comes on and passes ht a little Indian lad ; is treated kindly by returns to his tribe: s surrounded by hun- 1, and protesting that heir community. The energies to rebuild the to secure their regular ers and mass ; and by (hem from their sorcer- o till the land and take lese objects he induces mass; after which he ig the church or clear- trenches for irrigation, preparing the ground these labors the good He is overseer, brick- iriiiging stones, first in sand, cutting, carrying, fixing materials j some- TRA"EI, « tN TIIK i: A I, I K o l( N r A fl . 171 tl'U'S spa(!in.f up the i:;n)iirid, Sdinctiiins splilting tu<\i. ..ilh II I'KiwIiar, .soiMftinifs turniiiix watrr into the trenches, and Hi others leadini; the beasts ami cattle, which he has procured for his mission, to pasture and to wMvr. By his own ex- aiiiph; he teaches tluiii to throw olF their natinal sloth, to fet.nl themselves and live like rational l)tini;s. Hut this great ex- ample does not sulfiie to wean them from a love of the woods, and a listless and starving inaction. A thousand times they try his patience, by coming late to mass and to work, anil by running away and jeering liiin, and sometimes threatening and l{)rming combinations to take his life. All this the old man bears with unwearied patience, kindness, and holy fortitude. In the evening the Padre leads them again to tlieir devotions. At this time the rosary is prayed over, and the catechism ex- plained ; and this service is ibllowed by the distribution of some provisions. At first these Indians jest and jeer at the service, and mock at what he says. This the Padre bears patiently, till he finds forbearance increases the evil, and then makes a very dan- gerous attempt to suppress it. An Indian in high repute among his fellows for physical strength, stands near him duiing service, and mocks at all that he does. The other In- dians, regarding bodily strength as the only quality of great- ness, are vastly pleased that their champion seems the superior of the Padre. Ugarte perceives by their bearing, that he is losing their confidence. He therefore seizes the savage, in the midst of his profanity, by the hair of his head, and swings him to and fro, with determined violence, till he begs for quar- ter. This so frightens the tribe that they afterwards behave with strict decormn when engaged in religious duties. The work of building the mission edifices, however, goes on slowly. The Padre, carefid not to weary his Indians with labor, at fre- quent intervals instructs their stupid minds in the best methods of performing their tasks, and most especially, in the know- ledge of their Maker. In succeeding years he enjoys the pleasure of seeing his neophytes well instructed in the doc- 172 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC, tiint'S of the Catholic Church, inured to patient labor, and residing in comfortable houses. He has turned the mountain streams along the crags, ami changed the barrf.n dust of the mountains into cultivated fields, burdened with harvests ot wheat, maize, and other grains. He even makes generous wines, sufficient to supply the missions in California, and an overplus to exchange in Mexico for other goods. He like- wise breeds horses and sheep, cattle and mules. Indeed, such is the success of Padre Ugarte's fortitude and industay, that in 1707 he becomes the Purveyor-tJcncral of the missions, and relieves them by the produce of his converts' labor, from some of the fears of starvation on that desolate coast. Thus has this excellent man, in the course of seven years, opened, by his individual influence on the Californian Indians, a large plantation, the products of which, in favorable seasons, feed thousands of savages and seven hundred whites. His efforts now take another direction. His sheep, brought origi- nally from the opposite coast, have increased to such an ex- tent, as to yield large quantities of wool. This the Padre determines shall be made to clothe his naked Indians. He, therefore, with his own hanc^s, makes spinning-wheels, looms, and other weaving apparatus, and teaches his Indians to use them. In order to perfect them in these manufactures, he obtains a master weaver, one Antonio Moran, from Tiepic, under a salary of five hundred dollars per annum, to instruct them in weaving, and various other handicrafts. By these new manufactures, the missions are saved vast expenses for sail-cloth and baize. The Indians are clad ; the grains and vegetables, although not a full supply, are ordinarily suf- ficient to prevent famine. The cattle and the other animals being ar'ded to these, suffice to meet the necessities of the Califor...an missions. A deed of true benevolence performed, where human praise can never speak of it, is a jewel in the crown of our nature, which can never be dimmed. How it beams on the robes of the good man as he steps into his grave ! How 't glistens in the tear of silent gratitude that u CI F! C . patient labor, and tiuneil the mountain he barrfii dust of the ned with harvests ol ven makes generous in California, and an her goods. He like- 1 mules. Indeed, such ude and indusUy, that leral of the missions, i converts' labor, from desolate coast. course of seven years, he Californian Indians, h, in favorable seasons, hundred whites. His is sheep, brought origi- creasod to such an ex- wool. This the Padre is naked Indians. He, spinning-wheels, looms, saches his Indians to use these manufactures, he lie Moran, from Tepic, •s per annum, to instruct • handicrafts. By these saved vast expenses for re clad ; the grains and ,ply, are ordinarily suf- le and the other animals et the necessities of the benevolence performed, k of it, is a jewel in the iver be dimmed. How it nan as he steps into his of silent gratitude that ii TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS, 173 shed over the tomb of the dead, as ages crumble it into dust ! IIow rich a halo does it throw back on all after time, a rem- nant light of Bethlehem's holy star, to lead the living to the same happy use of their capacities ! These Indians' remote descendants will forget this good man. But his deeds will live in their virtues. We will now look into the movements of Padres Salva I TiERBA and Piccolo. Near the end of the year 1701, the pro- i visions which Padre Kimo has sent to Lorctto, are exhausted, and Padre Piccolo's departure to Mexico for a supply is has- tened. He sails on the second of December, leaving the Pa- dres, the garrison and Indians in absolute want. For sixty days they subsist o.i roots, wild fruits, and a few fish which they find washeil up on the shore. On the twenty-ninth of January, 1702, however, their distress is changed to gladness by the arrival of a boat from Pailre Piccolo, laden with meat, maize, and other provisions. This supply, in the bountiful hands of Padre Salva Tierra, lasts but a short time ; and want returns upon them with all its horrors. At length the last filthy piece of meat is consumed, and they betake themselves, Indians and Padres and garrison, to the shores for fish, and to the moun- tains for Pitahayas and other fruits and roots. Amidst these sufi'erings occurs a difficulty with the Indians. A soldier by the name of Poblano has married one of the Indian converts. In the month of June her mother visits her and invites her home to the joyful ingathering of the Pitahayas. They go away in the night unperceived, and run to the mountains. The next morning the soldier pursues them a limited distance, but returns unsuccessful. A day or two afterwards, he goes with a Californian Indian near a village, where they hear a great deal of shouting and merriment. An old Indian, whom they meet, advises tl.em to return, because their lives will be en- dangered by proceeding. The soldier insults the old man and shoots him. The noise of the discharged musket rouses the village, and the soldier dies, pierced with arrows. His Indian 174 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. companion is wounded, but brings to I^retto information of this misfortune. , The Padres of San Xavier return to Loretto, and prepare to march in pursuit of the murderers. The Indians, learning this movement, gather all their forces and destroy the corn ' fields of San Xavier, and a few goats, on whose milk the Pa- dres are subsisting, during this calamitous famine. The sol- diers arrive in time to prevent the destruction of the buildings. At length the parties begin to skirmish, and four of the Indians are killed. But their numbers and violence increase daily. The troops suffer incredible hardship among the preci- pices, and breaks of the mountains. Distress and consterna- tion are beginning to seize them. Death is looked for as inevitable. But they rejoice again; they breathe freely again ; a bark comes over the tranquil and heated sea, with provisions and a recruit of soldiers ; and runners are sent from Loretto to San Xavier, to give all a speedy share of the joy- ful news ; they eat and drink again in the Californian missions ! The Indians are intimidated by the arrival of fresh troops, and submit ; and the grateful Padres give thanks to God in a solemn Te Deum for this unexpected deliverance. Great anxiety is felt in California for the fate of Padrs Piccolo. No tidings of him have been received since he left the port of Loretto. He has, however, arrived safely at Cinaloa, about the first of February, 1702, and sent them supplies ; has hastened thenoe to Guadalaxara and Mexico j by indefatigable exertions has obtained six thousand dollars from the Government for the payment of soldiers; and having collected charities from a few individuals, has pur- chased goods for the relief of the most urgent necessities of the missions ; has obtained a guarantee of Don Josef de La Puente Marquis de Villa Puente, for the support of three new missions ; and from Nicolas de Arteaga, an offer to support another ; and from the Government, six hundred dollars per annum thereafter ; has secured the appointment of two Padres, Juan Manuel de Bassaldua and Geronimo Minutili, as mis- > Aciric. Ijoretto information of Loretto, and prepare to The Indians, learning and destroy the corn on whose milk the Pa- tous famine. The sol- uction of the buildings, mish, and four of the and violence increase rdship among the preci- Dlstress and consterna- Death is looked for as i; they breathe freely il and heated sea, with nd runners are sent from ipeedy share of the joy- the Californian missions ! arrival of fresh troops, (rive thanks to God in a deliverance. a for the fate of Padrs een received since he left wever, arrived safely at y, 1702, and sent them luadalaxara and Mexico ; ined six thousand dollars yment of soldiers; and few individuals, has pur- nost urgent necessities of ntee of Don Josef de La r the support of three new teaga, an offer to support t, six hundred dollars per ippointment of two Padres, eronimo Minutili, as mis- TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIA". 175 1 nionaries to California ; and has purchased a vessel at Aca- pulco, called Nuestra Senora del Rosario ; has embarked at Matanchel with his goods, provisions, his brethren, and some artisans, for Loretto. Fine breezes bear them into the Gulf; then a tempest swoops down upon them and compels them to throw overboard that part of the cargo which is stowed on deck; but helping gales bear them to their destined port, on the twenty-eighth of October, 1702. And now again the cross is raised before the people ; the lofty anthem of thanksgiving swells up the parched moun- tain, and every knee bows to God ami Senora de Loretto. Most of the garrison had been discharged for want of money to pay their wages ; few have remained to protect the Pa- dres. Joyfully now do they all gather about Padre Piccolo, with warm elfusions of thanks for his expedition, and engage anew to bear arms, and beseech the mercies of God for the missions of California. This reinforcement of troops, arti- sans, and Padres, and the supplies of provisions and money, and the guarantees for the support of four new missions, and the promised annuity from the Government, encourage Padke Salva TiERKA to form higher designs for the enlargement of his operations. To effect them in the best manner, he con- fers with all the Padres on the best measures ; and the con- clusion is, that Padre Ugarte shall go to Senora and procure cattle for breeding, and horses and mules for draught and rid- ing ; that Padre Minutili shall remain at Loretto with Padre Salva Tierra; and that Padre Bassaldua shall accompany Padre Piccolo to San Xavier, where he may learn the Indian language, and otherwise prepare himself for future labor. In obedience to these determinations. Padre Ugarte sails in the begiiming of November; but after being absent a few days, is driven back by contrary winds. In December he sails again, and happily arrives at Guaymas, Pimeria, in February 1703. He reappears at Loretto with a fine quantity of black cattle, sheep, horses, mules, and provisions. In March of this year, Padre Salva Tiekra re-commenc«B 17fl S C E N K S IN r II K P A .. I F I C . expldiing till' country. He lakes witli liim the Captain anJ some soldiers, anil proceeds to San Xavier, where he is joined by Padres Piccolo and Bassaldua. Thence they travel with great difficulty over the thirsty mountains to the Pacific, and search the coast far northward for a harbor, fresh water, and tillable land. None is found which will shelter ships from the prevailing winds. Some land, with a good soil, is dis- covered ; but the absence of water for irrigation renders it useless. By going south, however, they fall upon the little river San Xavier. Here they find a few Indians who, after run- ning away, are persuaded to show themselves friends. On their return these Padres pass two rancherias, the inhabitants of which they induce to move nearer to Loretto. This jour- ney proves fruitless. They have discovered no suitable place for the establishment of a new mission. In May, they make another, in search of a river emptying into the sea one hundred and twenty miles north of Loretto. Having ar- rived near Concepcion Bay, they fall in with a large ranche- ria of Indians, who seize their bows and arrows and come out to destroy them. The Californian Indians, however, who are acting as guides to the Padres, explain the benevolent object of their visit; and all are received as friends, and treated with the kindest hospitality. These Indians inform the Padres of a large tract of crags and abysses lying be- tween them and the rive- that they seek, which it is impos- sible to pass, and they return to Loretto. A dismal misfortune now falls on California. Some Indi- ans arrive at Loretto full of fright and sorrow, from whom the Padres learn that the wretch who formed the last conspiracy, the murderer of the soldier Poblano, and incendiary of the mission of San Xavier, has fomented discontent, assembled the rancherias, and massacred all the adult converts at San Xavier, except the few who have escaped to Loretio. This sad news determines the Padres and the Captain to punish those factious individuals, in such a manner as to prevent such outrages in future. Accordingly the Captain and soldiers fall A .. 1 FI C . h \\\m the Captain an J vier, where he is joined rhence they travel with ains to the Pacific, and harbor, fresh water, and will shelter ships from i?ith a good soil, is dis- for irrigation renders it hey fall upon the little ff Indians who, after run- themselves friends. On ncherias, the inhabitants r to Loretto. This jour- covered no suitable place Qission. In May, they r emptying into the sea of Loretto. Having ar- il in with a large ranche- rs and arrows and come an Indians, however, who Rs, explain the benevolent received as friends, and y. These Indians inform igs and abysses lying be- ;y seek, which it is impos- jretto. n California. Some Indi- ind sorrow, from whom the formed the last conspiracy, no, and incendiary of the ;nted discontent, assembled the adult converts at San escaped to Loretto. This tnd the Captain to punish a manner as to prevent such the Captain and soldiers fall TRAVEL R IN THE CALIFORN'AS m 1 on the conspirators at night, kill a few, among whom is one of the most active in the massacre ; but the leader escapes. The Captain, however, declares he shall die. But the rough- ness of the country prevents pursuit. Another means of arresting him is adi ^ ted. The Indians are told that they shall never have peace until they surrender this chief of vil- lains, and in a few days he is brought into the mission of San Xavier A court-martial is now called, and the culprit ar- raigned, tried, and condemned to death ! The Padres inter- fere to save him. But the Captain will not yield. The pri- soner confesses that he intended to destroy all the converts and the Padres ; that he has burnt the chapel and the images ; that he has had a chief hand in the raiu-der of Poblano ; that he has been inducing the Indian women to marry the soldiers, in order to have more killed in the same manner ; and the Captain will not release him from the punishment which he deserves for such terrible acts and intentions. All the Padres, therefore, gather at San Xavier to attend the last hours of the miserable man. They teach him to look at the fearful scenes which will break on him when the spirit's eyes open on eter- nity ; exhort him to kiss the cross of redemption and lift his love to him who bled upon it for sins like his. He is taken to the plain in chains, blinded, made to kneel down and is shot ! This is the first execution for a capital crime in Cali- fornia. Its influence is salutary. The Indians become peace- able, and regular in their duties. The Padres make use of restored peace in exploring the country to find sites for new missions. The river Mulege, at the north, is visited by Padres Piccolo and Bassaldua in the bark San Xavier. They find arable land on its banks, a league in width, which appears suitable for a mission station. They therefore proceed to Senora to obtain riding animals wherewith to explore the southern shore for a land route to LoiCtto. Having returned, they descend the coast a few leagues, where a range of dry volcanic heights arrests their progress, and compels them to abandon their design, and re- 178 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC embark for Loretto in the San Xavier. On thi^ir way, thpy put into Concepcion Bay which lies south of the opposing Mountains ; send the bark to Guaymas for supplies ; go by land along a path partially cleared by the preceding expedi- tion ; arrive at a valley which they call San Juan de Londo, where they meet Padkk Salva Tierra; and thence pro- ceed in great haste to Loretlo. Misfortune calls for their sympathy. An ordinance has been issued by the Viceroy at Mexico, prohibiting any one from engaging in fishing for, or trading in, pearls, on the Californian coast, without a license from the Government, countersigned by tlie military commandant at Loretto. The object of this regulation is to prevent avari- cious individuals from drawing the Indians away from the missions; an evil which the Padres have long endeavored to extirpate. But notwithstanding this regulation, two vessels have come upon the coast without license, and are fishing off Loretto, when a tempest breaks them from their moorings and strands them in the bay. The crew of one of them, seventy in number, are saved, and fourteen of the other succeed in gaining the shore. These eighty odd men the Padres clothe and feed a whole month, — the time required to get their ships off and repair them, — when the one with seventy souls sails for Mexico. This unexpected draught upon the small stores of the missions bears so heavily upon them, that the arrival ot Padre Piccolo from Senora, \vith the bark partially laden with provisions, barely saves them from starvation. Near the close of the year the twelve survivore of the other crew are taken to the continent by Padre Minutili, who has been appointed to the missions at Tibutama. But their presence for so long a time at the garrison has greatly increased the sufferings of all the staticms. It is now 1704, the seventh year of the religious conquest of California. It seems to be the last of the missions. The Padres have labored inces- santly. Many of the natives have been baptized, and arc becoming accustomed to labor. The lands are somewhat 1' A (• I F I C . ;r. On their w ay, they south of the opposing mas for supplies ; go by )y the preceding expp'li- call San Juan tie Londo, ikrra; and thence pro- lisfortune calls for their the Viceroy at Mexico, in fishing for, or trading without a license from the military commandant at tion is to prevent avari- le Indians away from the have long endeavored to lis regulation, two vessels license, anil are fishing off '.m from their moorings and \v of one of them, seventy ■n of the other succeed in add men the Padres clothe J required to get their ships ; with seventy souls sails for it upon the small stores of n them, that the arrival ot le bark partially laden with om starvation. Near the ivoi-s of the other crew are e Minutili, who has been itama. But their presence a has greatly increased the is now 1704, the seventh California. It seems to be 'adres have labored inces- ve been baptized, and are The lands are somewhat TRAVELS IN THE CALIPORNIAS. 179 productive, and the manufacture of cloth is considerably ad- vanced. Their attendance on the ordinances of religion gratifies the Padres, and civilisation seems to be taking root among these savages. But as the converts increase, the num- ber of persons to be fed and clad are multiplied. And as the necessities of these grow, the hopes of a proper supply be- come more precarious. The vessel in which grains are to be brought from the opposite coast requires overhaulint; before she can put to sea. Without her the money for the pay- ment of the garrison cannot be obtained from Mexico. But as the Padres have no means of repairing her, Padre Bassal- dua, for life or death, sails in her towards Mexico, and Padre I Piccolo, with equal self-devotion, embarks for Senora in the leaky and shattered bark San Xavier. The mission of San Josef, on the continent, has been an- nexed to the Californian missions, in order that the Padres may use its resources for a uniform supply of provisions and animals. The brave Padre Piccolo is passing now between this station and Loretto, with all possible speed and activity. But the little provisions he is able to collect, ill suffice the wants in California. And as this little is often spoiled in the leaky boat before its arrival, starvation is again expecteil at Loretto. Meantime Padre Bassaldua arrives on the coast of Mexico with hiscrea'.ing, leaky vessel; proceeds to Guadalaxara and Mexi- co ; urges the execution of the Royal Orders for the support of the mission. ; is unsuccessful ; collects enough to repair his vessel ; procures a small supply of necessaries from benevo- lent individuals ; sails in company with Padre Pedro Ugarte, who has been appointed to fill the place of Padre Piccolo, and in the latter part of June rounds into the bay of Loretto, to add to the number of the desponding and starving ! The Padres send the vessel and the bark to the continent for pro- visions. But the shattered condition of these craft, and the northwest gales, twice oblige them to put back empty. And when at last they succeed in making the voyage, littlr relief comes of it. There is a want of every necessar» of litla 180 9CCNR8 IJf THE PACMFtC amonf; the Padres and soldiers. The latter co.nplain that their certificates of services sent to Mexico have not been honored ; and the former see that some decided step must be taken either for the salvation or abandonment of the missions. Padre Salva Tierra calls together the Padres and the Cap- tain, and another officer of the garrison, to deliberate, and informs them that they can expect no speedy relief from their friends at Mexico ; thtit he cannot more clearly depict the melancholy condition of their afTairs than their common sufferings do ; that he is summoned to Mexico to confer concerning the execution of the Royal Orders for the relief of the missions ; but that he will not leave California until the mis- sions are either relieved or destroyed. He desires, however, that others will fully deliberate, and freely determine whether they shall all remain there, and suffer for the glory of God, or go to Mexico, and await a more favorable juncture for renew- ing the conquest. He himself is ready to eat the wild fruits, and in other respects fare as the converts do, rather tiian abandon them. Padre Ugarte opposes leaving the country. Padres Piccolo, Pedro Ugarte and Bassaldua agree with him : and the Captain declares that he is astonished to hear a pro- position of the kind ; that he will solemnly protest against the Padres, if they should abandon the conquest. Neverthe- less, notice is given to the people, that whoever will, may embark in the vessel going to Mexico, and that bills shall be given them for the arrears 'of their wages. But instead of embracing the offer, they all refuse to leave the Padres. The fear of an insurrection among the soldiers on account of the non-payment of wages and want of food being removed, the Padres dispatch the vessel and the bark to Guaymas for supplies. While they are waiting for these. Padre Ugarte sets an example of patience and fortitude. He goes into the mountains and woodlands, gathers the wild fruits and digs edible roots, reminds his spiritual children of the death in Canaan, and God's goodness to J.icob — while the soldiers and officers vie with the good man in all his works of love. PACIFIC TRAVELS IN THE CALIF0UNIA8, 181 'he latter co-nplain that 1 Mexico have not been line decided step must be ndoninent of the missions, the Padres and the Cap- rrison, to deliberate, and t no speedy relief from innot more clearly depict (fairs than their common led to Mexico to confer al Orders for the relief of ve California until the mis- ;d. He desires, however, 1 freely determine whether er for the glory of God, or orable juncture for renew- !ady to eat the wild fruits, converts do, rather than poses leaving the country. Bassaldua agree with him : s astonished to hear a pro- 1 solemnly protest against 1 the conquest. Neverthe- e, that whoever will, may Kico, and that bills shall be jir wages. But instead of e to leave the Padres. The soldiers on account of the ,t of food being removed, d the bark to Guaymas for g for these. Padre Ugarte brtitude. He goes into the rs the wild fruits and digs ,1 children of the death in Jacob— while the soldiers n in all his works of love. The Padres do not abandon their determination to found the other mission.", ff)r which funds have been proinised. With this design in view, and also to bring new matters of interest to the minds of the distressed peop'e Padres Salva TiERKA and Pedro Ugarte visit the district of i^igui, lying on the coast south of Loretto. A single soldier and two Indians accompany them. As they approach the village, many In- dians rush from an ambush and begin to fire their arrows at them with great fury. The soldier, Krancisco Xavier Va- lenzuela, draws his scimitar and brandishes it briskly in the sun with one hand, while with the other he fires his mus- ketoon in the air. These movements so frighten the savages that they throw their weapons and themselves on the ground, and allow the whites to approach them. The two Indians interpret for Paukk Salva Tikrra. He assures them that he comes only to do them good; that he has brought Padre Ugarte to live with them as a father, who will lead them to a happy futurity. On hearing this, they affectionately embrace Padre Salva Tierka, and bid their wives and children to come from their hiding-places. The Indians are sad that the Padres do not remain longer with them, and can only be comforted by a strong promise that Padre Ugarte will soon return. They baptize foity-eight of the children, and depart for Loretto. In the month of August, of this year, the vessel and bark return from Guaymas with provisions. Close upon this happy event, follows another, which causes much grief to the Padres and the Indians. Padre Salva Tierra is appointed visitor to tb'' missions of Cinaloa and Senora. The prospect of losing the society and fatherly love of this great and good man, causes deep sorrow among all ranks. He is also called to Mexico by order of the Viceroy, to attend an assembly to be soon convened by command of his Sovereign, in which the propriety and possibility of executitig certain royal orders com erning the conquest and settlement of California are to be discussed. Before he departs, he consecrates the new 1B2 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. Church at Lorctto, and appoints to the command "^ ^he ga'ri. son, Juan Baptiste Escalante, a -^''^;""'*^;^. for the office, and his desire to labor and die a simple mi ZZ among his Caliibrnian Indians. But the Padres as.ur h- n t^L the niles of his order will not permit hun to decline ; a r^i'dehim.tbat un.ler so good a.man asProvinua. T V. h will cbeerlullv further his pious desires for the the church - 11 ^'-2 of California. The Padke Juan IZZ of his converts in that forlorn wilderness, enters Ton the duties of Provinical Bishop of New Spain. 'pm SaI Tikkha in his official character communicates Jh hi' Vi-roy, and lays before him his views of the^proper Tasur sof is'bovernmentforthe furtherance of the mis- measures oi territories undtr his charge. He ir:^'^ «i^ -or .he Sp,- power i„ *». t X b, moans of ,he JesulU, a.* Aat x. order to hoM ;l L^uesL, .he power by which .hey h«e »ee„ oMa-d „„,. s,ill he exercised. The honor and herfonh'^^^^^^^^^^ and of the Calhohc Church demand .his of his E"""™"* r ,„. He is favorably heard, and all classes of pec- rrTnT is"! But the delay and selfishness whi^ Jl' a ever characterized the Spanish power m America and A CI Ft C. ! command of the garri- rruished warrior, against Marques, as Lieutenant, wrorthy Captain Estevan the sorrow of the Pa- ount of some bitter feel- 3 satisfaction of all parties, e supreme government of I first of October sails for tra, confers with the Amli- to Mexico, and finds bim- 5pain, and missionary of vhelmed with this unex- rity and zeal, his unfitness r and die a simple mis- is. But the Padres as5;ure lot permit him to decline ; ood a man as Provinual, his pious desires for the fornia. The Padke Juan , in hope of bettering the forlorn wihlorncss, enters :)p of New Spain, ial character communicates lim his views of the proper le furtherance of the rais- es undtr his charge. He the Spanish power in those its, ait,A thut Ji order to hold ich they have been obtained or and benefit of the Crown ,nd this of his Excellency's >ard, and all classes of peo- delay and selfishness which nish power in America anJ TRAVI:L8 in THb CALIKORN.AA 18S elsewhere press on the track of the good Padre, and he '» forced to leave Mexico on a visit to the churches of his Dio- cese, without any dtcided assurances that his views will be acted on. The {KJverty of the Crown, while half the world is digging gold and silver for its colfers, is an additional cause of this inaction. We next find Padre Sai.va Tierha, in 1705, appealing to tl»e Jesuit College and the Audiencia of Guadalaxara, to suc- cor the missions. Soon after this lie lands at El Mission del Nucstra Senora de Loretto, amid the general joy of the Pa- dres, soldiers and Indians. To the latter, particularly, he ha.' been a father ; and they dance and shout around him in an ecstacy of gladness to see again his grey head and benevo- lent face. The Padre finds his brethren in great wretchedness, but full of unwavering determination to carry forward the work which he has so valorously begun. Padre Piccolo, who has been ap- pointed visitor of the missions of Senora, in order that he may hfive authority and opportunity to draw provisions more regu- larly for those of California, has been forwarding at intervals whatever he could gather from those poor establishments. But this has been sufficient only to prevent starvation or the abandonment of the country. However, the missions still exist, and the venerable Padre Salva Tierra is happy. Their discomforts have been much increased during his absence by the growing tyranny of Capt. Escalante, who has become im- patient of his subjection to the Padres, and abusive to the In- dians and soldiers. An account of this state of things having been forwarded during the Padre's tarry there, he has brought with him Don Estevan Rodriguez Lorenzo to supersede Esca- lante — an arrangement which results in much satisfaction to tlie missions. The Provincial remains two months in California ; but he does not excuse himself from his usual arduous labors. His new dignity furnishes no pretext for idleness. He bends all his energies to the well-being of the natives ; takes measuree 1S4 S C r. N K ^ IN T II K PACIFIC for the establishment of two new mis-sionN ; the one at Li^ui and the other at the river Mulege. The small number of his associates, however, is an olwtacle to the accomplishment of his wishes. There are hut three Padres with him. One of these is required at Snn Xavier, and one at Londo. This dis- tribution will leave but one to take care of the magazines, disburse the stores, nurse the sick, and perform the spiritual functions at Loretto — a task which no single man can per- form. Accordingly, Jayme Bravo, the lay companion of Pa- i)RK Salva Tikkua, is induced to take upon himself the tem- poral affairs of the garrison and mission, and thus leave the Padres free to pursue their religious labors. This arrange- ment being made, the Provincial departs for Mexico about the last of November, 1704, and ihe Padres Pedro Ugarte and Juan Manuel de Bassaldua commence the exploration of the new stations. The former goes twelve leagues south, to Li- gui, and the latter forty leagues north, to the river Mulege ; while Padre Juan Ugarte takes care of the missions at Loretto San Xavier and Londo. The Ligui Indians are found to be peaceable, but so ex- tremely indolent that the Padre can get no help from them in the construction of the mission buildings. His ingenuity and patience, however, are equal to his necessities. He feeds the boys of the tribe with sweetmeats, makes them small presents, and by his paternal address, hoon attaches them so strongly to his person, that they follorw him wherever he goes. He resorts to many artifices to habituate them to labor ; lays wagers with them on their comparative dexterity in pulling up Inishes, removing the earth from the sites of the buildings, and challenges them to dance with him on the clay of which the bricks are to be made. The boys sing and poach the mud with their feet, and so does the Padre. And in this way he clears his ground and erects the buildings of his mission. He also teaches these boys the Spanish language, and they teach their own to him. He explains to them the catechism and prayers, and they do the same to their parents. Thus, with untiring r I ri c )ns; the one at Ligui le small number of his the accomplishment of es with him. One of le at Londo. This dis- are of the magazines, id perform the spiritual single man can per- le lay companion of Pa- upon himself the tem- ision, and thus leave the labors. This arrange- jrts for Mexico about the jdres Pedro Ugarte and ! the exploration of the Ive leagues south, to Li- i,to the river Miriege; of the missions at Loretto be peaceable, but so ex- get no help from them in ings. His ingenuity and necessities. He feeds the lakes them small presents, attaches them so strongly wherever he goes. He late them to labor ; lays •ative dexterity in pulling the sites of the buildings, him on the clay of which )ys sing and poach the mud . And in this way he clears of his mission. He also guage, and they teech their 1 the catechism and prayers, ents. Thus, with untiring A California Lulian. TRAVELS IN THE CAI. IFORNtAS. 185 Indian. patience, firmness and labor, docs he bring the mission ol San Juan Baptista into form, and its Indians under his control And not these only ; but going many miles into the woods and the breaches of the mountains, he gathers in the wan- dering, feeds and clothes them, and teaches them to till the ground and live like men. At last he succeeds in humaniz- ing the greate- portion of these rude people. They call him Padre, follow him to the labor of the field, and gather about the altar in his humble church to worship. All are industri- ous, well-fed, well-clad, and happy. As the Padre, however, is felicitating himself on these results of his labors, an accident occurs which well nigh ruins all. He is called to baptize a sick woman, with whom he finds an old sorcerer employed according to their ancient cus- toms. The Padre bids hira depart, administers extreme unc- tion to the woman, remains with her till death, buries her according to the forms of the church, and afttr reprimanding severely the converts who have lent their sanction to the jug- gler, dismisses them with much indignation. This severity of the Padre rouses the sullen fierceness of the Indians to such extent that, instigated by the disgraced sorcerer, they form the design of murdering him. They use the utmost secrecy, and make death the penalty of divulging their purpose. The Padre always has a boy sleeping in his apartment ; and when at length the night of the massacre comes, this boy desires that he may be allowed to spend it with his friends, the Indi- ans. The Padre objects ! The boy urges ! The Padre in- quires the reason ; and the boy, after much hesitation, tells him, " Because, father, this night they are going to kill you !'* On hearing this, he sends for some of the chief ones, and with a resolute and dauntless air tells them, " I know you have formed the design to kill me this night. But remember ! With this musket I will, when you come, slaughter you all." Having said this, bo quickly leaves them full of consterna- tion at wha* they have heard. Oppiessed with fear, they retire to their associates in the 188 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC design; consult much, aad at last conclu'.le to seek safety from the Padre's nuiskct in flifiht. In the morning the.r lod.res are deserted ; not an Ind>an is in sight of the Mission San Juan Baptista Ligui. On the following day the Padre goes out to seek his lost flc.;k. They are found h.dden away among the cliffs, and flee at his approach. After con- siderable parleying, however, they are convinced that the Padre seeks their good alone, and return to the mission tho- roughly persuaded that he loves them, but can never be made to fear them. This excellent man continues at his mission, enduring every privation, till 1709, when the severe fatigues of years weigh him down and compel him to seek health in Mexico. Thither he croes in the character of negotiator and procurator of the missions. No sooner, however, does he recover his health in a tolerable degree, than he returns and resumes his labora. But illness again compels him to leave this inhospitable shore for the mission at the River Yaqui, on the opposite coast, where he makes himself useful as an agent and pur- veyor-general for California. But let us follow the Padre Juan Manuel Bassaldua to the River Mulege. He starts in 1705, and with gre.it dif^culty surmounts the crags as far north as Concepc.on Bay. Here his progress is arrested by hills to all appearances in- surmountable. But "trial before despair" is the Padres motto He fills ravines with rocks, and cuts away the woods; and after incredible labor, passes his animals over to Mulege. There is a valley near the mouth of this little stream ten leacrues in length, suitable for tillage. In this, two miles from the^Gulf, he locates his mission, and consecrates it to Santa Rosalia; builds his dwelling and church of adobies ; remains four years; collects the Indians from all the neighboring set- tlements; instructs them in religion and the useful arts; and soendearshiinselfto them, that when his health fails, and he ifi transferred 1 1 Guaymas, the poor savages find it difficult to \ C I F I C . onclu'.le to seek safety In the morning their in sight of the Mission allowing day the Padre riiey are found hidden ; approach. After con- are convinced that the turn to the mission th-o- , but can never be made i mission, enduring every fatigues of years weigh alth in Mexico. Thither or and procurator of the he recover his health in and resumes his labors, leave this inhospitable • Yaqui, on the opposite ful as an agent and pur- Manuel Bassaldua to the and with great difRbstacles; present him bring him water from )gress, the old ones, at iwly advancing in com- Ires in charge of them ;stablishments. with the Captain, seven m Juan Baptista Llgui, Igarte upon the happy T the shore towards the a half, when an Indian e dying ! Jayme Bravo one of them has found ive been roasting a spe- f which contains a very icates the news of food isten to devour it. A it. But the soldier "ho ne of your noise, Indian ; ly and gives to his com- i^allows a httle ; another ther merely handles and )een if they had regarded very short time they are B or less violent, accord- 3 fish. The first expires ed by the second ! The ■eraains insensible till the 10 only handled them is days. This misfortune leir enterprise. They re- le consecrated grounds of lOretto. CHAPTER XI. ?*lre Juan Ugarte and Jayme Bravo explore ihe Pacific Coast— Dearth —Thirst— Padub Salva Tibiiba— A Tempest— Landing at Loretto— San Josef— Wrecki'ii—PADiiE Salva Tiebra goes to the Rescue— En- ergy— SufTering— Die by Tliousimds— Wrecked— At Sea in a Long- boat—The Limit of Despair— They toil on— The Guaycuros— Massa- cre— San Ignacio— Padre Salva Tierra leaves California— Death of a Hero at Guadalaxara. Meantimk Padre Juan Ugarte prepares to reconnoitre the coast of the Pacific. The chief of the Yaqui nation waits on him with forty of his warriors. The Ca^itain, with twelve sol- diers and some converts, is at his command for the same duty ; the beasts and provisions for the journey are ready ; and Padre Juan Ugarte and the layman Bravo, on the twenty-sixth of November, 1706, leave Loretto, with their troops and pack animals divided into three companies, on their wearisome way over the western mountains. Their march lies through the Mission of San Xavier and the Indian village called Santa Rosalia, and from that point passes over the dry and herb- less waste of heights and vales to the sea. Here they meet several hundred Guaycuros, who are friendly to them. Thence they march southward many leagues, and find no water in all the distance except in little wells dug by the Indians. They then turn their course to the north. They march all day over burning sands, famishing with thirst, and halt at night near the channel of a dry rivulet. Thence they send men a few leagues farther up the shore, and others up and down the thirsty channel, in quest of water. They all return to camp with- out success. Next they disperse themselves in every direc- tion to find a plat of low ground where they may dig wells, but find none. As a last resource, they now let loose their i ■M,i 190 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC animals, that they may, by their powerful instincts, find means of quenching their thirst ; but all these contrivances are vain. They kindle a fire to keep themselves warm, and, weary and fainishinir, stretch themselves on the sand for the night. In the morning Padre Ugarte greets the rising sun with th« services of Mass ; and while they sing the " Litany de Seno- ra de Loretto," an Indian calls out in the language of his people that he has found water ! With solemn gratitude they dig into the oozing soil; they obtain a supply for themselves and their animals ; and having filled several vessels to serve them on their return, offer a service of thanksgiving to the Virgin, and commence their journey to Loretto. Wliile the Padres are thus employed in establishing mis- sions and exploring Calitbrnia, Padrk Salva Tikkra is ear- nestly petitioning the Pope to discharge him from the office of Provincial Bishop of New Spain. He desires to spend his declining years among the Indians of California. In 1706 his discharge comes; and with inexpressible pleasure does the good old man collect supplies of clothing, provisions and ammunition, for the mission. He is joined by two other Padres, Julian de Mayorga and Rolandegui. To their care he commits the stores, with directions to repair to the har- bor of Matanchel and await the arrival of the bark which is to take them to the peninsula. The Padre himself goes by land four hundred leagues along the coast to the harbor of Akomi in Senora, for the purpose of collecting free contribu- tions from the missions in the regions through which he jour- neys. About the first of Januaiy he sails for Loretto. He has a long tempestuous voyage. "This night," says he, "the thirty-first of January, was extremely dark. "We were with the mast lashed, and without a rudder ; and amidst rocks and islands ; the sea continually making a free passage over us ; the sailors spent with toil and hunger, having been without f'od for a day and a half, were prostrate, giving up all for lost. The least damage we could expect was to be drivea ul instincts, find means contrivances are vain, warm, and, weary and nd for the night, the rising sun with th« ; the " Litany de Seno- n the language of his li solemn gratitude they I supply for themselves several vessels to serve of thanksgiving to the to Loretto. ed in establishing rais- Salva Tikkra is ear- re him from the office of le desires to spend his 3f California. In 1706 :pressible pleasure does of clothing, provisions B is joined by two other Rolamlegui. To their tions to repair to the har- tal of the bark which is Padke himself goes by 16 coast to the harbor of collecting free contribu- 3 through which he jour- 5 for Loretto. He has a night," says he, "the ly dark. We were with er ; and amidst rocks and T a free passage over us ; iger, having been without •ostratc, giving up all for expect was to be drivea TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORWIAS, 191 into the sea of Gallicia or Acapulco. * Tnstissima nocti$ imago.' The Califomians got about me like chickens, and they were not my least coniiilants, as being new-born sons of the Great Miulonn.i, and had run this risk in her service. Af- ter all my journeyings and voyages, I nevei knew what dan- gers or distresses by land or sea were, until now." They are driven by this horrible tempest into the bay of San Josef, thirty miles south of Loretto. On the third of February, the storm abating, they run up to the desired haven, and are received with universal gladness. In 1708, Padres Salva Tierka and Juan Ugarte go with Padre Mayorga into the midst of the mountains to an Indi m settlement called Coinondu, and invest him with a mission there under the name of San Josef; and after having aided him in gathering the Indians, building a chapel, and some bough huts, they return to Loretto. Padre Mayorga forms some neighboring Indians into two towns which he calls San Juan and San Ignacio; builds a fine cl;urch at the former place ; opens a school for boys at his own house ; erects a seminary for girls ; builds a hospital for the sick ; prepares maize fields at San Josef, and plants vineyards at San Juan and San Ignacio. Many other fertile spots are discovered among the deserts of California, soon after Salva Tiekra's arrival, suitable for the establishment of missions. But misfortunes by sea and land retard their occupancy. The following is an instance of this kind. The bark San Xavier sails from Loretto in August, 1709, with $3,000 in specie, to purchase a supply of pro- visions in Senora. A storm of three days' continuance drives it on a barren coast, north of Guaymas, where it is stranded among the sands and rocks. Some are drowned ; others savt themselves in the boat. Hostile Indians, called Seris and Tepocas, fall upon those who escape and drive them to sea in the open boat ; dig up the $3,000 which they have hidden in the sands ; take the helm from the bark, and partly break it in pieces for the nails. The crew in the boat encotmter very ^uU.4l 193 SCENES THE PACIFIC many danpjers in their perilous voyage to the sonth. Storn-s overtake them. Their l)oat becomes leaky. They have no water. They live, however, to reach the river Yaqiii, sixty leagues from the wreck. FVom this place a pearl-fisher's bark is sent to I^retto with an account of these disasters ; Paduk Salva Tierra hastens over in the Rosalia to Guaymas; sends her to a port near the scene of the shipwreck ; dis- patches the bark San Xavier to the vessel, while he himself, attended by fourteen Yaqui Indians, passes up the rugged coast by land ; is two days without a drop of water ; and at last arrives at the wreck. The San Xavier's men are merely sustaining life on boiled herbs. He sends to the nearest mis- sion for food by an Indian, who succeeds in passing through the hostile Seris and Tepocas, with a small supply. This does not suffice. Death is near them, when the indefatigable Padre determines to journey through bands of murderous sav- ages to the harbor of San Juan Baptista for help ! He has not travelled far along the coast when he arrives at a settlement of Indians, who come out against him under arras. They are led by an old man, who urges them on with terrible vociferations. Nothing less fearful than death seems promised in their present situation. But the Padre, with his usual in- trepidity, advancing alone towards them, makes some small presents to the old man and his son, which, accompanied by signs and kind gestures, soften their ferocity a little, when to their surprise and joy they hear the guns of the Rosalia ! The explosion of these cannon is new to the Indians they think it the voice of avenging gods — they immediately run away and bring to the Padre food, and $3,000 which haj been taken from its place near the wreck. The Padre thus unexpectedly recovers his lost money, and the means of con- tinuing the lives of himself and men. The Rosalia anchors near the disabled San Xavier ; and the provisions on board for a time relieve the distressed xrork- men, seamen and Padres. But as two months are consiunet in refitting the wreck, they are again often in want The CI FIC to the south. Storn,s leaky. They have no the river Ya(|ui, sixty place a pearl-fisher's unt of these disasters : le Rosalia to Guayraas ; if the shipwreck ; dis- ssel, while he himself, passes up the rugged drop of water ; and at tavier's men are merely ends to the nearest mis- eeds in passing through a small supply. This , when the indefatigable bands of murderous sav- ista for help '• coast when he arrives at t against him under arras. es them on with terrible lan death seems promised Padre, with his usual in- them, makes some small , which, accompanied by ■ ferocity a little, when to runs of the Rosalia I The w to the Indians they is — they immediately run 1, and $3,000 which hal wreck. The Padre thus ;y, and the means of coo- n. lisabled San Xavier ; and relieve the distressed work- two months are consume* yain often in want The Fatlier Salva Tierra goes alone to meet the Indians. — P. 192 TRAVELS N THE CaI. IF0RNIA8 193 missions of the region afford them occasional aid ; but the dearth which has pervaded the country (hiring this yeiir, so far disables these establishmerits from furnishing adequate supplies, that Padke Salva Tiekua sends a messenger to the distant Hussion garrison, ninety miles up the country, called Nuestra Sennora de Gaudalupe, begging the Captain Don Francisco Xavier Valcnzuela to send them food. This excellent man immediately despatches what succors he can command ; and soon after comes in person with some of his men and a mors liberal supply. When he arrives, such is the distressed condition of the Padre and those with him, that this commander and his vete- rans seat themselves on the beach and weep. After a con- tinual repetition of trials like these, during two sultry months, the San Xavier is afloat, and the brave Padre sails his vessel to the Californian coast ; visits the Padre Piccolo at Santa Rosalia Mulege, and encouraging that lonely priest in the prosecution of his holy labors, drops down to I^oretto. Soon after his arrival the small pox, that exterminator of the In- dian race, sweeps away the greater part of the children and many adults, in all the missions. The garrison also suffers very much from irregularity of diet consequent upon the pre- carious means of supply, and the necessity of living in that sultry climate, on salt meat and maize. All these sicknesses and deaths the Indians attribute to the Padres. Their children, say they, are killed by baptism ; the adults with the extreme unction ; and the soldiers are made sick by continual expo- sure to the malign influence of prayers, masses and the exalt- ation oi the Host. These suggestions are raised by their old sorcerers, and threaten to embitter the Indians fatally against the Padres. But the neophytes stand by their Priests, and convince their countrymen of their error. From 1709 to 1711, a famine spreads over the entire Mes- can Territories, and California consequently obtains l maf plies from that source. The distress of these years is so ril eeedingly gre.it, that the Indian neophytes betake themseh«i L .^ 194 • CENE8 IN THE PACIFIC to the tnountainfl, uiui live on root» and wild fniilM ; whilt; tb« ftuldicrs uf the garriiion eiit herba witli the self-deiiyinp; Padres : Hiid to complete the luisrurtuncii of this devoted country, two barks used in bringing a little food from Senora, are cast away. In 1711, Padke Salva Tiurra sends Padre Francisco Peralta, who arrived in California two years before, to Matanchel to repair the old Ilosariu. But the frauds practised by the work- men consume many thousands of dollars, and make the bark so miserable a tliin<^, that in its fnst eflort at sailing it runs ashore in spite of the helm, and is utterly lost. They now build a new one, at an expense of $2'2,UO0. In this, then, laden with supplies, they put to sea. But a storm rising, the ill-built craft proves to be unmanageable, Uie sport of the waves and winds. She Ls driven to Cape San Lucas and back again to the isles of Mazatlan. Here some of the sailors forsake her; others remain on board, and after many difficul- ties, take her in sight of the coast of Loretto. A storm now drives her ashore on the opposite coast. It is the eighth of December. The night is terribly dark and tempestuoi>» Four seamen clear away the small boat, and regardless of the lives of the others, shove olF. Those who are k-ft hang to the main and mizen masts surging in the seas ! Padre Bensto Guisi and six seamen are drowned. Padres Guillen and Doye, and twenty others, with the greatest difficulty, un- lash the long-boat, bail out'the water with two calabashes, and throwing aboard a piece of an old sail and some bits ct boards for oars, commit themselves to the mercy of the waves In the morning they find themselves several leagues from land. They row down the coast a day and a half, and after a bois- terous night land three hund:ed miles south of Guaymas. Eighteen persons, naked, wet, pierced with cold, exhausted with rowing, without food or water, with the sing-le comfort of having escaped death in the sea, land on a barren waste interspersed with fertile tracts overrun with briars and bram- bles They gather oysters, '^ilks and heths to cat, ant H C I F I C wild fruits ; whil*; tue If stlf-denyinp; Padres : a devoted country, two from Senora, are caBt ;»adre Francisco Peralta, before, to Matanchel to < practised by the work- ars, and make the bark ertbrt at sailing it runs lUerly lost. They now $22,000. In this, then. But a storm rising, the geable, Uie sport of tlie Cape San Lucas and Here some of the sailors , and after many difficul- Loretlo. A storm now oast. It is the eighth ot dark and tempestun»« oat, and regardleas of ihe ise who are kd hang to 1 the seas! Padre Bensto eil. Padres Guillen and e greatest difficulty, un- rater with two calabashes, J old sail and some bits ot to the mercy of the waves i several leagues from land, id a half, and after a bois- milcs south of Guaymas. ;rceu with cold, exhausted er, with the single comfort jea, land on a barren waste rrun with briars and bnun- ks and herb* to tat, avA THAvr. t. * IN THE »;ai. irrt«»rA«. IttS nnrrh into the interior to find inhabitants. As they hrcnk tlieir way, the bt'ainbl(« and briars lacerate ihiir nuked bomals in their progresses, and the miserable character cf the craft used in their voyages, have thus far prevented the attainment of their wishes. But Padre Ugate now determines to survey both the Pacific and CI r t c , id extends hv jurisdic- ;hin a circuit of ninety ]s werediscorered aid e trate sprung up be- ns in Mexico. Indeed destined for old Spain, the country on muk-s, ■t of Vera Cruz. The lican coast is made, for jeas, to latitude 30'' N. winds, which take thera les30«'and40°N. At and autumn, they meet them down the coast avigation is imperfectly fly unknown. Naviga- and consequently every azardous and prolonged, coast, the crews are sick for a supply of fresh pro- n, from Cape San Lucas ater and other necessary d to keep down the coast ;r port, before they make last Indies ; a distance of knA when they arrive at t nearly all the crew are )rder to avoid this dread- , ordered the missionaries mded by a country suita- This they have often at- imals in their progresses, aft used in their voyages, ent of their wishes. But rvey both the Pacific and '^M^^**'*'' TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORN AS SOS _-L Gulf coasts of the peninsula. His means are so small, how« ei^r, in every respect, that his brethren do not perceive how he will do it. He wants provisions, men and a ship. And such is the condition of public feeling in Mexico, and such the difficulty of journeying there, that he cannot hope for aid from his friends in that quarter. But who knows the wealth of exhaustless energy ! Padre Ugarte will build a ship in Cali- fornia ! ! He has, however, neither plank, timber, sails, nor rigging, tar, nor any other necessary materials for such a work ; nor has he either a builder or shipwright, sawyer, or other naval artificers ; and if he had, there is no food for their sup- port ; and worse than all, he has no money wherewith to sup- ply any of these deficiencies. But the Padre says the King's orders must be obeyed ; that this cannot be done without the ship ; and therefore the ship must be built irrespective of means. The sufferings of his fellow beings also demand it The people of the garrison and some of the Padres smile at Padre Ugarte's resolution against what seems to them an im- possibility. But they do not estimate the creative powers of a mind bent on the accomplishment of its desires. He obtains a builder from Senora, and makes preparations for bringing timber from the opposite coast, as he has done for the erection of his churches. But hearing of a grove of large trees two hundred miles north of Loretto, he changes his determination, and in September, 1719, goes with his builders, two soldiers and some Indians to Mulege. Here he remains a day with Padre Sistiaga, and then strikes out for that line of mountains which overhangs the mission of Gaudalupe. They climb the heights and scour the barren plains ; endure inexpressible difficulties and toils; and at last discover a considerable number of Gua- rivos trees of suitable size ; standing, however, in such bottoms and sloughs, that the builder declares it impossible to get them to the sea. The Padre, disregarding this suggestion, goes to Loretto ; makes preparations for a vigorous effort to build a ihip of Californian timber ; returns to the north ; levels rocks, cuts away brush ; and making a road ninety miles in length 804 SCENK8 IN THE P A r I »■ I C I from Mule.;eto the timber, fells it, saws it into plunk*, trans- ports them to Mulege, and in four months builds a vessel anc launches with his own hands, in September, 1720, the first ship ever built on the northwest coast of North America ! ! In this herculean labor the Padre has employed his entire means. The little valuables sent him by his friends in Mexi- co and elsewhere, have not been spared. Even his wardrobe has been freely distributed among the laborers. He himself has swung the axe, has used the whip-saw, the chisel and the hammer ; he has risen with the dawn, and invoking the smiles of Heaven and the aid of ministering spirits in his toil of soul a»d bo.ly, kindly called his men to their tasks. They famish, and so does he. And when the fatigues of each day are over, the jutting rocks are their resting-) ce; a few hides their bed. Yet the ship is built. High on her stern, firmly affixed to her bulwarks, is raised the symbol of their faith. Hei name, how appropriate, is, the " Triumph of the Cross." During the progress of the work, Jayme Bravo, as purveyoi of the missions, goes to the coast of Cinaloa to procure goods and provisions. On his arrival there he is surprised to find letters from the Provincial of Mexico, ordering him to Gua- dalaxara for ordination. He accordingly ships his supplies and travels with all speed to that city ; is admitted to holy orders ; and by direction of his superior, proceeds to Mexico to procure aid for the missions. His energetic labors are crowned with success. On the fifteenth of March, 1720, the council orders a bark built, to sail between Accapulco and Peru, to be delivered to Padre Jayme Bravo, together with the arms and stores which he desires. The means of founding a new mission at La Paz, are also furnished by the Marquis de Villa Puente ; and Padre Bravo is designated as its priest and founder. With a new ship, therefore, well laden with supplies, and with new hopes for all the missions, and especially well furnished for his new work at La Paz, the Padre Jayme Bravo sails from Accapul- co in July, 1720, and in August of the same year enters the A r- 1 >■ T c . lit into plunk i, trans- ths builds a vessel anc tember, 1720, the first of North America ! ! s employed his entire by his friends in Mexi- d. Even his wardrobe laborers. He himself -saw, the chisel and the and invoking the smiles jpirits in his toil of soul !ir tasks. They famish, les of each day are over, ce; a few hides their 1 her stern, firmly affixed lol of their faith. Hei friumph of the Cross." lyme Bravo, as purveyor Dinaloa to procure goodf ! he is surprised to find ;o, ordering him to Gua- dingly ships his supplies ity ; is admitted to holy erior, proceeds to Mexico d with success. On the il orders a bark built, to to be delivered to Padre jrms and stores which he 1 new mission at La Paz, i Villa Puente ; and Padre d founder. With a new iplies, and with new hopes well furnished for his new Bravo sails from Accapul- f the same year enters the TUAVEl, 8 IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 20d harbor of Loretto, amidst a general burst of joy and religious thanksgiving of the starving people on shore. Comfort and joy reign again throughout the missions. The Patlres and the garrison are clothed again ; and the means being furnish- ed, their thoughts are again turned to the establisluueni of other missions. Padre Jayme Bravo leads the new under- taking. Two expeditions are therefore projected; one by laud and another by water. The former is designed to open a land communication between Loretto and the site of the m- tended mission ; the other for the conveyance of the men and provisions, and other necessaries of the enterprise. The forces intended for the expedition over land rendezvous at San Juan Baptista Ligui, under command of Padre Clemente Guillen. Padre Ugarte leads the other. He embarks on board the "Triumph of the Cross" with Padre Bravo, the soldiers and Indians, and a good stock of stores and utensils. They arrive in safety at the bay of La Paz. This is m the country of the Guaycuros, or Pericues, who have been grievously wronged by Admiral Otondo and the Spanish pearl fishermen. They are consequently inimical to the Spaniards, and will perhaps make deadly war upon them as they land. But it soon appears that those prisoners from the fishing barks, whom Padre Salva Tierra has returned to their iromes, have given to their countrymen such an ac- count of the Padre's kind treatment as disposes them to friendship. Some of them appear in arms; but as soon as they see the costume of the Padres, their arms are laid aside. Seated on the ground, they allow the Padres to ap- proach, and accept with high demonstrations of pleasure, various presents. The object of the expedition is made known. They are assured by the Padres that it is for their benefit They have come to found a mission among them: to make peace between them and the Indians of the neigh- boring islands: to teach them agriculture and the useful arts, and to instruct them in the principles of the Christian reiigion. Thereupon the Indians receive them as friends, and 206 8 »J E N E f IN THE PACIFIC. give theiu peimission to erect the cross and ronsccrote their shores to God. Huts are now erected for all the people ; the stores and beasts are brought ashore ; a piece of ground is cleared for a church and a village ; and to the great sur« prise and delight of the Indians, a mission is founded among them. The expedition by land, under Padre Guillen, has not yet arrived; and much disquietude is awhile felt for its i'ate. But it is soon changed to gladness. Three hundred miles have been travelled, over mountains, through woods and mo- rasses ; and as the sun is falling on the brown heights in the west, a salute of musketry is heard on the northern shore of the bay ; it is returned by the ship ; and the boats are imme- diately sent over for Padre Guillen and his company. They are worn, naked, hungry, and thirsty ; and with joy only known to themselves, they bathe in the surf, drink the water from the spring, and eat the food of their brethren in the new mission at La Paz. Padre Ugarte labors three months at La Pa/, in establishing Padre Bravo in his mission. And now having confirmed the league of peace with the Indians by numerous acts of benevolence and Christian love, he takes a most affectionate leave of Padre Bravo and the soldiers who remain with him, and embarks for Loretto. Padre Guillen is ho much worn with his land expedition, that he also returns by sea. The Ligui Indians who accompanied him, follow ba( k the path by which they came.- Padre Bravo, as all others in charge of these missions have done before, learns the Indian language ; builds a parsonage, church and huts ; and with the greatest assiduity, applies himself to gain the affection of the natives, civdize and instruct them, and relieve them from want As a reward of his labor, more than six hundred children and adults receive baptism : and more than eight hundred adults are assembled in three well regidated settle- ments, called Nuestra Sennora del Pilar de La Paz, Todos Santos, and Angel de la Guarda. He also, as he pursues his holy labors, discovers some tracts of arable land sixtj ( I Fl C. a and consecr.^te iheir or all the people ; the a piece of ground ia and to the great sur- sion is founded among 2 Guillen, has not yet hile felt for its late. Three hundred miles hrough woods and mo- e brown heights in the the northern shore of id the boats are imme- id his company. They ty ; and with joy only le surf, drink the water leir brethren in the new bors three months f»t La [lis mission. And now ice with the Indians by iristian love, he takes a vo and the soldiers who retto. Padre Guillen is n, that he also returns by panied him, follow ba( k e Bravo, as all others m before, learns the Indiaa rch and huts ; and with f to gain the affection of Q, and relieve them from more than six hundred n : and more than eight ree well regvdated settle Pilar de La Paz, Todosi He also, as he pursues tcts of arable land sixty TRAVELS IN THE C A L I f K!» I A 8 207 miles distant, which he annually plants with maize. All thi« Padre Bravo accomplishes single handed in seven years. In the year 1720, wliile the Padres are yet at La Paz, a mission is founded by Padre Everard Ilcllen, among mountains in latitude 27^ N., thirty leagues northwest of San Ignacio, thirty from Concepcion, and from sixty to seventy north ot Loretlc. The climate of this location is cold and unhealthy. But the Indians repair to it from the neighboring settlements, and express the utmost joy that the Padre, after long solicita- tions, has come to give them the religion of the white m^n. This mission is dedicated to Nuestra Sennora de Gaudalupe. In the midst of the labor of erecting the edifices of the mission, the Padre visits the most distant of the surrounding settle- ments, to instruct the aged and sick, who are unable to come to him. During his absence for these works of charity, the captain, soldiers and Indians, forward the erection of the church, parsonage and other buildings of the mission ; so that at the end of six weeks, it is in so good a condition that the captain, leaving a guard of four soldiers, returns to Lo- retto. Such is the zealous industry of Padre Hellen, and the inter- esting attention of the Indians, that on Easter eve, 1721, he baptizes a few converts. And now from all the villages come applications for instruction and baptism. The good Padr* finds it difficidt to make the Indians understand, that some knowledge and the abandonment of their old practices are necessary, before they can receive the sacred rite. He exhorts them to give up the trumperies used in their heathenish cere- monies, and worship Jehovah. At length they bring him a large quantity of pieces of charmed wood, feathers, cloaks, deer's feet, &c., which he commits publicly to the flames, while he receives the transfer of their faith to the religion ol the cross. Thus the Padres are making all desirable pro- gress in the spiritual culture of the Indians, and everything promises well. But the following years, 1722 and '23, are very disastrous to their feeble settlements j and especially so SOS BCKNRt IN THE PACrriC to Gnudiilupc. The whole country is overrun with lorunlii The fruits, the chief sustenance of the Imhans, are entirely .|e- stroyed. The niaize iind other supplies in the granaries, are i\\>- trihuted to save tlicm from futnine. Ihit in (Jauchdupe. even thi'se arc insuflicient. The Indians are therefore compelled to sulxiist on the locusts; and the consequenoe is a terrihie epidemic, by which great numbers are destroyed. They are aflhcted willj painful ulcers of a most loathsome character. l)urin<^ this epidemic, Padre Ilellen has to fill the oiFices of physician, nurse, confessor, priest, and father. He endures almost incredible fatigue; flies from one village to another; administers medicine, prepares food, and smoothes with a wo- man's teiKh'rncss, the rude couches of his sulFering children. Thus he continues till the sickness ends; when worn out with the multiplicity and the character of his labors, he hails the appro;jch of a season of rest with joy and thanksgiving. But scarcely does it come, when another still more fatal pestilence breaks out among them. A dysentery unusually fatal sum- mons the fainting energies of the good Padre to another effort. lie again enters upon his charitable offices, going from rancheria to rancheria, like an angel of mercy, consoling, comforting, praying and blessing. At last the consequences of his severe labor fall upon himself in a distressing hernia, and defluxion of the eyes, so extremely painful, that he is obliged to leave his flock and retire to Loretto. In a few months he is sufKciently restored, however, to return to his du- ties, and his aiHicted Indians receive him with every demon- stration of faithful love and veneration. The Padre avails him- self of this attachment to draw them to his faith so effectually, that, in 1726, seventeen hundred and seven converts of all ages are the fruit of Padre Hellen's devout labors. Some, living at a distance, are attached to the more contiguous mis- sions of Santa Rosalia and San Ignacio. But twenty ranche- rias remain to Padre Hellen. These he maintains in the most peaceful and gentle intercourse with each other and with himself. They are divided into villages of four rancherias. (' I r I c 1 overrun with locimlH luliaiis, are eiitiri'ly .It'- ll the f^rauaries, are di'»- hit in Ciiiiuhihipe. even re therefore compelled jHsecjuen^e is a terrible ! destroyed. They are St loathsome character, has to fill the olhces of lid father. He endures one villaijre to another ; iid smoothes with a wc- )f his suffering children. [Is ; when worn out with his labors, he hails the and thanksgiving. But still more fatal pestilence cry unusually fatal s\un- good Padre to another charitable ofTices, going ingel of mercy, consoling, At last the consequences If in a distressing hernia, emely painful, that he is re to Loretto. In a kvr wever, to return to his du- e him with every demon- )n. The Padre avails him- , to his faith so effectually, and seven converts of all n's devout labors. Some, 3 the more contiguous mis- lacio. But twenty ranche- se he maintains in the most ,vilh each other and with illages of four rancherias. T R A V K I, S IN THE (' A I. I K fi N I A » . 209 with each a chapel. And in these humble sanctuaries, nfl often as the Padre \isils lluin, the red men gather and pay tlieir (levotions to the true (iod ! The pr()gI•e.^s made in spir- itual improvement is e(iiial to his most ardent desires. Mut the nature of the country forbids e({ual advancement in the arts of civilised life. They cannot, raise the small grains; and their only resource is the cultivation of inai/e and the raising of cattle. These are procured by the Padre ; aru. with the native liuits ali()nl them a conilnr Loretto. From the supe- sess, they accomplish their and once more congratu the garrison. icoarage the hope of Pudie in by sea But having made ,he sets sail from the bay of 1721, with the "Triumpbol the Cross," and a boat called the Santa Barbara, to be used in sounding such watcrr. as are too shallow for the larger vessel. The Santa Barbara has eleven feet keel and six leet beam. She carries eight persons. The bilaniler carries tvventy j six of whom are Europeans, and the rest Indians. Of the former, two have passed the straits of Magellan, another has made a voyage to the Philippine Islands and Batavia, and another has been several times to Newfoundland. The pilot passes for a man of learning and experience ; and thus supported, Padre Ugarte departs on his momentous enter- prise. He takes but a small stock of provisions, expecting to receive a full supply from the mission on the op[)osite coast of Pimeria. The winds bear them safely to the bay of Con- cepcion, where Padre Ugarte visits the mission of Santa Ro- salia, and spends some hours in social pleasure with Padre Sistiaga. Hence they pass the islands of Salsipuedes. From these they cross the Gulf to the harbor of Santa Sabina and the bay of San Juan Baptista. Here they observe Indians standing on the shore, who flee as the boat nears them. When the Padre lands, he sees a rude cross set up in the sand. The simple solitary sign speaks to the good man's heart. He bows before it, and the crews prostrate themselves in rever- ence at its foot. This is enough. The Indians, reassured by this act, shout a friendly welcome, and rush from their con- cealment. They have known the venerable Salva Tierra ; and the strangers' reverence for the cross allays all their fears; so strong have been their love and respect for that great man, that they put all trust in his brethren ; and are so impatient to be near the Padre Ugarte, that they swim to the ship, and manifest their joy by kissing his hands and face, and embrac- ing his feet. The good Padre's heart is deeply touched by these t;:)kexis of confidence and love, and having sent two of them with a letter to the Padre of San Ignacio, and distribut- ed some presents among the others, makes preparations to procure a supply of water. For this purpose all the casks are iiannediatcly put on shore. They have no interpreter, but the 212 B C E N E S IN THE PACIFIC Indians seem to enter into some dispute relative to the cnsks. By and by they all take leave, intimating by signs that they will return with the next sun. The Padre and the crew grow apprehensive. What do the Indians mean 1 It cannot be known. But being late, they go on board, and wait tlie event. Night comes on ; but no hostile savages break its silence. With the early morning, however, the dreaded sava- ges are seen returning in troops, with rush buckets filled with water ; the men with two, and the women one each. The faithful creatures, understanding the want implied by the empty casks, have visited their mountain springs during the night, and now rejoice to pour their crystal treasures into the good Padre's vessels. Repaying their kindness as liberally as his small means will permit, he undertakes to visit their kinsmen on a neighboring island. The pinnace and hilander are pi- loted by two of these Indians. A small party in a canoe row in advance of the ships, during the night. At dawn they are in a narrow channel full of rocks and sand spits ; and notwith- standing their precautions, the bilander grounds on a shoal and requires all the efforts of her crew for some hours to get her off. 'l his period of anxiety over, another begins ; for now the canoe and pinnace have disappeared. The bilander therefore goes on, though dangers beset her on every side, and after three days of tacking and sounding, reaches a tortuous chan- nel leading into a large bay. In this lie the pinnace and canoe near the island they are seeking. Thither they direct their course without more difficulties or delays. As they ap- j)roach, the natives appear on the shore, armed and shouting with the intention of intimidating the strangers. But their countrymen swimming ashore in advance, inform them that Padre Salva Tierra's brother is come in the ship to see them. Hearing this, they lay down their arms and express the liveliest sentiments of joy. The bilander having dropped her anchor, the Padre is earnestly solicited to go on shore But being attacked with tlie most excruciating pains through- V C I F I C . ,e relative to the casks. ,ing by signs that they idre and the crew grow mean 1 It cannot be 1 board, and wait the stile savages break its vever, the dreaded sava- rush buckets filled with mmen one each. The ant implied by the empty rings during the night, treasures into the good dness as liberally as his es to visit their kinsmen ,ce and bilander are pi- lall party in a canoe row ight. At dawn they are sand spits ; and notwith- inder grounds on a shoal ew for some hours to get Lher begins ; for now the The bilander therefore on every side, and after , reaches a tortuous chan- I this lie the pinnace and ;ing. Thither they direct s or delays. As they ap- shore, armed and shouting the strangers. But their advance, inform them that come in the ship to see ,wn their arms and express lie bilander having dropped ^ solicited to go on shore excruciating pains through- TRAVELS IN T H K t: A I, 1 F O R N I A S 213 out his pereon, from the chest downward, he reluctantly fore- goes the pleasure of complying with their ijivilution. These pains have followed him occasionally since the severe expo- sure which he endured in the harbor of Seris. The Indians, seeing that illness prevents his leaving the ship, construct a number of small light floats, and send aboard a deputation of forty or fifty persons, recpieciting that he will occupy, during his indisposition, a house which they have erected lor him on the beach. The good Padre cannot refuse this proller of sympathy, and though every motion is agony, gives direc- tions to be placed in the boat and rowed ashore. On landing, he is treated with great consideration. The islanders have formed themselves in double file from tlie waterside io the house ; the men on one side and the women on the other. Between these lines he is borne to the dwelling. It is a small wigwam constructed of green boughs, iionting plea- santly on the open bay. Here the sulfering Padre being seated, the people who have lined his pathway, come in one by one, first the men, then the women, and passing along, bow their heads that he may lay his hand upon them, and bless them. The Padre conceals his bodily agonies with great heroism, and receives them with much pleasantness and regard. This ceremony over, the islanders gather about for instruc- tion. He cannot remain sufficient time to do this ; ami re- commending them to go to the Mission del Populo, and bring thither an Indian teacher, who will answer their inquiries and teach them the precepts of the g'lspel, he re-embarks and continues his survey. Ho soon afterward discoveis a small open bay, where his little fleet comes to anchor. His sup- plies are now nearly exhausted. It therefore becomes him to hasten his explorations. Accordingly he sends the pinnace t: survey the coast by sea, and three men to examine it by land. The latter return on the second day. They have taken an outline of the neighboring land, and have seen a pool of stagnant water, and some mule tracks in the (lath 214 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC, leading from it. The Padre sees much in these tracks, and despatches two seamen with orders to follow them. These arrive on the third day at the Mission of Concepcion la Ca- borca. Here they find Padre Luis Gallardi, to whom they deliver Padre Ugarte's letters, addressed to himself and the Padre Missionary of San Ignacio. These being found to con- tain urgent petitions for the promised supplies, the Padre Gallardi immediately sets out with such small quantities as be can collect at so short notice. Padre Ugarte is still suffering the most excruciating tor- tures. The only position which he can endure, is on his knees. He has been twelve days in these dreadful agonies, unable even to go on shore. But now hearing of the arrival of Padre Gallardi, and the expect d visit of the Padre Mis- sionary from San Ignacio, he determines, if possible, to receive them ashore. It is no easy thing for him to leave the ship. But at last it is accomplished ; and he travels a leagup and a half to meet his visiters. The meagre supplies which they bring him are a source of anxiety to the host and his guests. The pinnace, too, is still absent. She was sent to survey the coast at the same time -that the men were despatched by land. The shores of the Gulf have been searched for a great distance north and south, but no trace of her being found, she is nearly given up for lost. The bilander, too, is in contnual danger from the agitation of the sea. She has already pajted one of her cables ; and now a heavy sea carries away her bowsprit, on which is mounted the " Holy Cross !" This causes great consternation. Fortunately a returning wave tL jws most of her bowsprit back ; but the cross is still at the mercy of the waves ! and the fears of the crew increase. Heaven frowns on their labors, and has removed from them the symbol of its mercy. The next day, however, an Indian recovers the sacred emblem, and it is again planted in triumph on the prow. Attention is now turned to obtaining wood and water. The former is easily procured in the glen near the A CI FIC. ich in these trucks, and ) follow them. These of Concepcion la Ca- tallardi, to whom they ised to himself and the nese being found to con- led supplies, the Padre uch small quantities as most excruciating tor- i can eiKlure, is on his ti these dreadful agonies, w hearing of the arrival [ visit of the Padre Mis- ermines, if possible, to hing for him to leave the ; and he travels a leagup bring him are a source lests. The pinnace, too, survey the coast at the lespatched by land. The ched for a great distance her being found, she is lander, too, is in confnual a. She has already pa ;ted eavy sea carries away her the "Holy Cross!" This tunately a returning wave ; but the cross is still at fears of the crew increase, id has removed from them >xt day, however, an Indian t is again planted in triumph urned to obtaining wood and cured in the glen near llie TRAVELS IN THE CALIFOKNtiS 215 shore; but the latter they bring from a spring several miles distant. While thus engaged, they rejoice to see three of the pinnace's crew approaching them. They relate that after weathering a very rough sea, and being several times in im- miinent danger, they cast anchor at sunset in a large shallow bay, Tr:ti two fathoms water, and went to rest. On the fol- lowmg njjrning they were in a singular predicament for sea- men, out of sight — not of land— but of water ! ! The sea had retired. What should be done ? No water, either fresh or salt, was in sight, and the supply of provisions was very sca'nty. Some ofiiieni resolved therefore, to leave the pinnace in search of water and food. Finding none, however, and seeing nothing but famine and death Ijefore them, they con- cluded to travel down the coast to Yaqui. The pinnace, how- ever, was visited by another flood tide, which her exhausted crow improved to get her afloat. Her keel had been much damaged. This they repaired, and immediately laid their course for the bilander. Four days after leaving her unfor- tunate berth she rejoins her companion. They now determine to depart from this ungenerous region and its treacherous waters, where neither food, fresh water, fuel nor home f( or man are to be found, but a mere wilderness of lonely shores. Somewhat disheartened by these unpropitious circumstances, Padre Ugarte, on the second of July, turns his prow westward for California. On the third day afterward he drops the anchor of the bilander and sends the pinnace ashore to talk with some Indians, who, at the sight of the fleet, have lined the shore, all armed in their native style. Before the men leave the pinnace the Indians draw a line on the sand, and inUmate by signs it will not be safe for their visiters to cross it A few presents, however, and some pantomiming, estab- lish affairs on a better footing. They conduct the Padres and people to then- rancheria, at which is abundance of water. After remainmg a short time with these savages, they journey about nin« leagues along the coast and find five 216 gCENES IN TlIK PACIFIC Watering places, with a ranclieria at each. The Bilantler continuing her survey, at length casts anchor in a large bay ; but finding the current so strong as to prevent her riding lii'ad to the wiiui, Padrd a condition, that it on board before she . he left her on the sand heria ; that while there 1 the Indians, the tide threw the boat so vio- ited from stein to stern; to build another ; but as ails from the oars, fasten- r their sounding line and clay for pitch, caulked us employed, the Indians stance was in their power; e shore with their crazy [Jer as related. In a short cruised forty leagues and ids northward, and in a vaters whose variable hue jtlet of some great river, sounding ahead, and after northing, comes to anchor )uth of the Colorado of the lume of angry waters, laden trees, burned logs, timbers vidently been ruthless work jpanied with thunder and ,gers during the night, and the river issues. The men subsides, to go up and sur- TRAVELS IN TUK CAl, IK0KNIA8 217 ariners. Their hopes are vain. Otlu-r ,nisl<.rlu..es are in reserve, more IVightlul tl.ai. any they have enco.i.ilere.l. t "f just belore they reacli the bay of Concopcion, a storm con.es up from the north-east so very suddenly, that they have barely time to furl the topsails and reef the foresail, belore its lury reaches them. The lij^htnin.^ falls aroun.l them, as it it would scorch an ocean to ashes, and the thunder-peals shake the firmament; the rain falls like the pouring of an upper sea, and the wind ploughs the ocean into mountains! In the hei.rht of this raging war, the terrified mariners diseover a wakT-spout not more than a league distant, travelling direetly toward the ship, with the speed of the wind ! They fall upon their knees before the cross, and implore the protection ot " Our Lady," and their patron Siiints. They spare neither prayers, vows, nor entreaties ! And suddenly when the foe is almost upon them, the wind shifts and drives it among the thirsty mountains of California. It discharges its devastating energies upon their barren sands and rocks ! Padre Ugarte says, that among all the dangers of the voyage, this was the time of greatest consternation. About the first of September, the vessel comes to anchor in the bay of Concepcion ; and they repair in boats to Mulege, to partake the hospitality of Padre Sistiaga. After spen.ling about two weeks in recruiting the sick, they return to their voyage, and soon after arrive at Loretto. To their great joy they find the pinnace has arrived four days in advance of them. Thus ends this eventful and important voyage. It serves to satisfy the Padres of many things which before were doubtful ; namely, that on the coast of California are some few watering places near the shore ; that the Indians are kind, gentle, and willing to be instructed ; while those on the main coast, east of the Gulf, are sluggish, ungenerous, an.! unwilling to enter into any intercourse with the whites. They are also" now convinced that California is no island, but a i I II di 990 RCENE8 IN THE PACiriC. pL'niiwula ; ami that all their plans for extending the iniwinnn 80 as to lorin a chain of cotinec.tion with those in Piuicria are It-asible. They have also obtained a much more ariiirate knowledge of the Gulf and its islands, shoals and currents, than they ever before possessed ; so that the difficulties and dangers of any future voyage are much lessened. Great sat- isfaction is felt at these results ; and yet the Padres grieve that they have not found a safe harbor, as their King has de- sired, in which the distressed seamen of the ships, bound front the Philippine Islands to Acapulco, may anchor and be spared by timely care, a dreadful death from the scurvy. The Padres still consider it their duty to pursue this object. They feel a moral, as well as national obligation to prevent this suffering. It can only be done by discovering a harbor on the Pacific coast, secure from seaward storms and convenient to fresh water. With a view to this, Padre Tamaral surveys nearly the whole coast from his mission to Cape San Lucas, and far northward also, from the same point; but all to no purpose. It is found inhospitable and barren near the sea ; and destitute of a harljor in which ships may lie with any safety. Padre Ugarte, on his return to Loretto, directs a new sur- vey of the same coast as far north as possible. And in com- pliance with this order, a small detachment of soldiers under the captain of the garrison goes to the mission of Santa Ro- salia de Mulege, and thence with Padre Sistiaga, to the mis- sion of Guadalupe. On the nineteenth of November, 1721, it leaves for the coast, and advances northward to 28° N. In this excursion they find three pretty good harbors, with plenty of water and won , out no arable land near them. The largest one is not far from the mission of San Xavier ; and may therefore be supplied with provisions, timber, &c., from that post. Highly gratified with these discoveries, they return to Loretto and report to Padre Ugarte what they have found. The Padre sends a narrative of his own voyage, to- get agi be the toi p n g 1( T H A V B L * IN T II K r' A I. I F O R V I A « . 321 tniminnil liiicria are arciirnle (Mirrcnts, lulties and jreat sat- ires grieve ig has (fe- cund from be spared ^y. The :t. They event this •bor on the ivenient to ral surveys $an Lucas, it all to no ir the sea ; e with any a new sur- id in com- diers under Santa Ro- to the mis- iber, 1721, to 28° N. •bors, with lear them, n Xavier ; tnber, &c., eries, they they have oyage, to- get'ner with the map urul journa. of his pilot, and Padre Sisti- aga's ucLDiiPl ot his disc nveries, to tin- Viceroy of Mexico, to be transmitted to the Court, for tlie inr)rmation and artion of the Lroveiniuent. Meanwhile the Padres turn their attention to the S]>iritual comiiiest of this wild country. CHAPTER XIII. A Mission Foumli.l — A Tornado— Death— Anoilicr Mission Founded— A Viiii-yaril— A Harvest— Indicai ions of Trouble— A MurdcT— For- bcnrancc — Three Murders — Measures taken for Defence — The Insur- gcntii Captured — A Trial — ASeBlcnce— A Reprieve — Death of Padrt PJLColo— A Visitor — l-'uriher Steps in the Compiest— A Voyage- Birds— Natives — Country — Islands— A Plunge — A Sliark — Death. TiiK Padres have lost none of their religious zeal while prosecuting these civil enterprises; and they have gained much topographical and other knowledge, which will be of general service in their future missionary labors. They have learned the practicability of extending their missions farther north. The country there is more fertile and better supplied with wood and water. The moral aspect too is more promis- mg. The natives in that quarter are much superior in intellect, more gentle and friendly, more honest and faithful ; and in every way more inviting and promising than those in the south. There, is a rich field of labor opened to them. But at the same time the condition of the southern natives renders it more necessary that they should be formed into missions. They are treacherous, vindictive, bloody ; and have many vices which are unknown among the northern people. The whole nation of Pericues with its several branches of Uchities, Guay- curos and Coras, are continually engaged in destructive wars, so that no security can be enjoyed by the missions or th#i? ill 222 SCENKS IN THE PACIFIC. converts, until this entire people are brought under the influ- ence of the Padres. To this end, during the time that Padre Ugarte has been exploring the Gulf and coast, two new 7nift» sions have been founded among Pericues. The Marques de Villa Puente, having a deep interest in the spread of the gospel in California, has endowed two missions which shall be founded between Cape San Lucas and Loretto. On receiving tidings of this, it is resolved that Padre Guil- len shall leave the mission San Lucas de Malibat, and found a new mission between the Uchities and Guaycuros. Accord- ingly in 1721, he settles among them and lays the foundation of a church and other buildings necessary to a mission, on the shore of Apaifi', forty kagues by sea, and on account of im- passable mountains, sixty by land, from Loretto. The mission is dedicated to Nuestra Sennora de los Dolores, and is styled Los Dolores del Sur. The country around it is barren and desolate. The inhabitants are the most vindictive, treacher- ous and stupid of all the Californians. Padre Guillen has therefore no easy or pleasant task to execute. But he enters upon it with so much zeal and love, is so unsparing of his efforts, and so universally kind and gentle toward those whom he would win to his flock, that his labors are rewarded even more largely than his fondest hopes anticipate. It is found advisable after the '^ood Padre has been laboring here for some ti^ie, to remove his mission farther into the in- terior, to a place called Tanuetia, about ten leagues from the Gulf and twenty-five from ilie Pacific. In this region the In- dians live in the wildest state. They have no villages; and the Padre is obliged to seek them in raves and wootls, and among the almost inaccessible rocks of the mountains. With gieat labor and the most indefatigable perseverance he draws them from their retreats and forms them into six villa- ges, called Nuestra Sennora de los Dolores, La Concepcion de Nuestra Sennora, La Incarnacion, La Trinidad, La Redemp- cion, and La Resurreccion. He also assembles many other wandering Indians, and erects for them the new mission of a II si tl g ci P' w N fe Ir ai Ic i TRAVELS IN THECAL IFOUNIA.S 223 er tbe influ- that Padre ro new mi*" terest in the wo missions and Loretto. Padre Guil- t, and found )S. Accord- le foundation ission, on the count of im- The mission and is styled s barren and ive, treacher- e Guillen has But he enters sparing of his :d those whom ewarded even 5 been laboring ,er into the in- agues from the region the In- ) villages ; and ind woods, and untains. With erseverance he 1 into six villa- La Concepcion ad, La Redemp- iles many other new mission of San Luis Gonzaga. Lastly, he turns his attention to the con- version of the Indians on the Pacific coast, from the mission of San Xavier southward to the Coras ; and founds among them a new mission. The Padre has now spread his labors over an immense tract of country, extending forty leagues up the Peninsula from Cape San Lucas, and embracing the whole territory from one coast to the other. The soil of this region is extremely poor. A small tract at Aparte on which the Indians are enabled to raise sufficient maize for sustenance, is all that can be cultivated. Ami be- sides the physical dltliculties incident to these desolate wastes, the Padre has savage poverty and its inseparable mental de- gradation, to weaken his hands and try his faith. This is pe culiarly distressing to the good Padre. It appears to him im- possible to bring these Indians into civilized habits of living, without the industry acquired by the cultivation of the soil. Notwithstanding all these momentous obstacles, however, (and few can appreciate them who have not seen the poor starving Indian in his native wilderness), the good Padre's labors here are so efficie«t and deeply grounded in the true philosophy of love, that these savages, once so vindictive and turbulent, are so changed as to stand firm during all the subsequent rebel- lions of the south, and offer the Padres and Christian Indians, flying from the treacherous and cruel Pericues and Coras, an affectionate and safe asylum in the mission de los Dolores del Sur. During the year 1721, another mission endowed by the Marques de la Puente, has been founded in the nation of the Coras, near Cape San Lucas, under Padre Ignacia Maria Na- poli. Padre Ugarte, before embarking on his survey of the gulf, gave direction to Padre Napoli to wait the arrival of the bark with supplies from Mexico, and taking whatever he stood in need of for his new station, to proceed in the bark to La Paz, and thence by land to the Bay of Islands, the place chosen for his mission. This vessel arrives in the middle of July ; and on the twenty-first, Padre Napoli embarks with four soldiers and Captain Don Estevan Rodriguez ; and on AM SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. ilie sectind of August, anchors at La Paz. Pac-e Nape .i is met by the Indians with great veneration. They conduct hirn xn process^ m to the cauich where Padre Jayrae Bravo, tl>en missionary, is waiting to receive him. Having rested from the toil of the voyage, the Padre sends th? supplies to Palmas Bay in a boat, while himself and the soldiers proceed by land for the twofold purpose of establish- iii^ some communication between the contemplated mission and La Paz, and also of inviting such Indians as they may meet on the way, to settle near him and receive instruction During the eight days of travelling through this wildernes», however, they meet no natives. The news of their approach has aroused their suspicions to such a degree, that they desert their rancherias and fly before the Padres, as if they were come to curse instead of bless them. On the tw^enty-fourth of August they reach their place of destination. Padre Napoli is suffering extreme pain in consequence of a fall from his mule. No Indians appear ; the boat does not arrive ; and t'e Paiire therefore is troubled. One evening Padre Napoli is walking alone at some distance from the tent, when suddenly his ears are saluted by the most frightful bowlings, and on looking up he sees a company of naked Indians approaching him with the most furious gestures. They are led by one ot gigantic stature, painted for battle, in black and reii, and par- tially covered by a kind of hair cloak. In one hand he has n fan of feathers, and in the other a bow, and arrow. Several deer's feet and other unseemly objects dangle from a band around his wa''»t. The Padre, concluding that his time is now come to die, commends his soul to mercy, and advances to meet the Indians. He remembers the instructions of Padre Ugarte, and concealing his fears, looks them boldly in the face, and even makes signs of contempt for their savage arts Their apparent fury is a little checked by his demeanor ; and joe Padre gaining courage, approaches nearer and signifies oy signs that he is grieved, but not frightened by their inten- tions. He then proceeds with great kindness to distribute am pel ers bin len Th. the the Thi ten (Ire cei' den Stil feai hav ed the Sh in to tin dis dn rei an th fe w lo fr ti tl tl Nape a is induct hirn iravo, tlien adre sends iself and the if establish- ated mission IS they may instruction s wildernes*, eir approach it they desert if they were nty-fourth of Padre Napoli fall from his rive; and t'e Ire Napoli is vhen suddenly vlings, and on i& approaching led by one ol I red, and par- hand he has « row. Several le from a band his time is now id advances to tions of Padre boldly in the eir savage arts leroeanor; and ;r and signifies by their inten- ds to distribute L S IN THE CALIF0RNIA9. 226 among them some trifling presents which he has about hia person, and invites them to come to the tent and receive oth- ers. This treatment produces its desired effect. They follow him to the tent, where they are kindly entertained ; and at length depart, bearing tokens of peace to their friends at home. They seem much pleased ; but intimate as they depart that they are afraid of the mules and the Padre's dog ; and that they cannot return, unless these are concealed from sight. This the Padre signifies shall be done. The next day tiie tent is thronged with little parties, to the number of five hun- dred, bringing such presents as the country affords, and re- ceiving "n return frocks of sackcloth, razors, and beads. This demonstration cheers the hearts of the Padre and soldiers. Still the boat does not arrive — and they are oppressed with fears lest she may be lost with all their supplies ; for they have been here now five days. No tidings of her have reach- ed them. They are, however, looking out on the sea at the close of the fifth day, when she makes her appearance. She has mistaken the place of rendezvous, and lain four days in a small bay a few leagues to the south. Being relieved thus from these several troubles, they begin to clear the ground and erect the village. The Indians con- tinue friendly and aid the work. But on a sudden they all disappear for a whole day. Now again the heart of the Pa- dre beats with anxiety. When and how will the Indians return are questions which will arise, but which no one can answer. Toward evening he determines to go in quest of them with only one soldier and an interpreter. He finds a few, and expresses his regret that they should forsake him ; when they frankly state the cause of their movement, as fol- lows : — They are at war with the Guaycuros ; the Padre is friendly to the latter, and has soldiers and Indians of that na- tion with him. They have watched their labors and see the walls of the church go up. For what other purpose could these be mtended to answer, than a warlike one ? Moreover, the Pad«: has that morning despatched three Guaycuros on the ii 226 • OENES IN THE PACIFIC. open road to La Paz ; and the ostensible object is peaceful enough, being simply to drive in a mule laden with maize. Yet they are suspicious that some more important business lies under this affair. In short, they believe the Guaycuros are coining to massacre the whole nation. The Padre has much diffic ;lty in removing this suspicion from their minds. At length, however, he so far recovers their confidence that a large number return to the tent. Others, still apprehensive, light large fires and keep strict watch, that the supposed ene- my may not fall on them unawares. The night, however, operates unfavorably on their feelings. They are all missing again fcr two days. They look upon Padre Bravo, who speaks the Guaycuri tongue, as the head and front of their foes. His presence keeps their fears and suspicions continu- ally inflamed. And though, when the mule and the Guaycu- ros return from La Paz, they see that Padre Napoli has told them truth, still they cannot so far quiet their fears as to ve- turn to their dwellings. Thus they continue between hope and fear for several days. Meantime the Padre continues his labors at the mission ; and by and by the Indians, finding their fears unfounded, begin to come in. The women bring their children for baptism, and the men offer perpetual friend- ship. Peace is also concluded between the Guaycuros and Coras and celebrated with the usual festivities. On the fourth of November Padre Napoli baptizes twenty- nine of their children, and everything -seems to promise well for their intercourse with the Indians. But as almost every- thing which was brought from La Paz, even to the furniture of the altar, has been distributed among them, and as the supply of provisions is growing short, Padre Napoli finds it necessary to evacuate his post. He accordingly IcaA es the little furniture and the few remaining utensils in the care of some o" the oldest and most faithful of the savages, and pro- mismg a speedy return, goes with Padre Bravo and his men to La Paz. In January he returns to his mission, and finds that during his t islani neith ren, retur barb is so he c his i how alii 1 grei the froii ly, fror cha est; farl sea toi the mo Du in in pr( Na foi mi de Str ta th qu ;t is peaceful I with maize, tant business xuaycuros are dre has much minds. At idence that a apprehensive, supposed ene- ght, however, ire all missing Bravo, who front of their icions continu- d the Guaycu- lapoli has told fears as to le- between hope e continues his Indians, finding ! women bring erpetual friend- Guaycuros and aptizes twenty- to promise well ; almost every- to the furniture em, and as the e Napoli finds it ingly lca\ es the in the care of ivages, and pro- vto and his men finds that during TRAVELS IN THE CALIF0RNIA8. 227 his absence, a band of forty depredators, from a neighboring island, calletl Cerralvo, has visited the mission, and finding neither Padre nor guard in possession, killed six baptized child- ren, two women and one man ; and taking another prisoner, returned to their homes. The Padre is sad at this unprovoked barbarity upon his neophytes. But the Captain of the guard is so enraged, that accompanied by a small party of soldiers, he crosses to the island to chastife the savages. They flee at his approach and hide themselves among the rocks. He, however, kills a sufficient number to intimidate the living from a like attempt in future, and returns to the mission. The confidence of the Indian converts in the Padre, is greatly increased by this punishment of their enemies. Yet the Padre does not think best to continue his mission so far from La Paz, whence all its supplies must come. According ly, he selects i. spot called Santa Anna, situated thirty leagues from La Paz, and five from the Gulf. Here he builds a chapel and small house, and labors with much success for the establishment of Christianity. In 1723 he builds a church farther in the interior, with the intention of making it the seat of his mission. But an unavoidable accident puts an end to this design. For when the church is so far finished that the beams and rafters are laid for the roof, the Padre is sum- moned one day to attend the deathbed of one of his Indians. During his absence one of the terrible tempests, so common in Lower California, comes up, and the Indians take shelter in the unfinished church. The storm increases, tiie church is prostrated, and several Indians are buried under it ! Padre Napoli hastens to the spot, and does everything in his power for the relief of the sufferers. But his benevolent acts are misunderstood. The living are thoroughly incensed at the death cf their friends, ana begin to concert schemes to de- stroy the Padre. From this they are at length dissuaded by lae repeated assurances of the survivors, that they retired to the church of their own choice, so that in time all becomes quiet again. The church is built and dedicated to San Jago ; 238 80ENEB IN THE PACIFIC. some ground cleared and sown with maize ; and comfort is slow ly increasing among lliem. He spends tliree years among thii slotliful and stupid people, during wliich time he baptizes ninety adults, and about four hundred children. The Padres have now for many years sustained a limited in- tercourse with the Cochlmies of Tierra de San Vincente. They have frequently expressed a strong desire to have a Padre among them who would teach them to become Christians. But DO opportunity has offered of founding a mission in their terri- tory, till the year 1727, when Padre Juan Baptiste Luyando, a Mexican Jesuit of fortune, arrives at Loretto, and offers not only to endow, but to be the founder of a mission. ITis offers are gratefully accepted by the Padres. The seat of the mis- sion has been selected by Padre Sistiaga of Santa Kosalia Muiege, during his frequent visits among the Indians of that vicinity. To this spot, therefore, Padre Luyando travejs, ac- companied by nine soldiers, in January, 1728, and arrives on the twentieth of the same month. The natives having been ex- pecting a Padre for some time, hail his arrival with much joy, and flock to his tent in great numbers. Many of them are already acquainted with the catechism, and nearly all have re- ceived some instruction from Padre Sistiaga. Padre Luyando, tlierefore, finds his task comparatively easy. The Indians are very readily persuaded to destroy all their implements of sorcery and abandon the foolish and superstitious arts in which they have placed their faith. Some of the Catechumens re- turn to tlifir rancherias after receiving baptism, but many remain. The Padre has about five Itundred at the mission during the first six months. At the end of this time his pro- visions beginning io tail, he despatches seven of his soldiers with letters to Loretto, asking supplies; meanwhile the two that ren)ain together with the Indians, commence building a eliurch, whic'i is finished and dedicated on Christmas day. The Padre's heart is so encouraged by his success that he not only undertakes the iustructiou of all who come to him, but lik ex] Til ha< we vcj So int hui otL qui yet to an( vill cat of tha bar pr( sec th CO na wi th e\ tl ui ci w n TRAVELS IN THE 0ALIFORNIA8, 229 nfort is slow [s among this iptizes niuety a limited in- icente. Tiiey lave a Padre 'istians. But in their terri- istc Luyando, aud offers not in. His offers at of the mis- Santa Rosalia [ndiaus of that ido travejs, ao- aiid arrives on having been ex- with much joy, ly of them are irly all have re- Padre Luyando, rhe Indians are implement'' of us arts in which Catechumens re- tism, but many at the missioD is time his pro- of his soldiers mwhile the two lence building a Christmas day. ccess that he not )me to him, but likewise makes excursions in search of new objects on which to expend his labors. He finds all his people docile, kind, vivacious, and active. Their district is well adapted to agriculture. Padre Sistiaga had some time before sown maize on some of it, wliich yielded well ; and Padre Helen had introduced the culture of garden vegetables; for all of which the Indians have ac(juired a relish. So that Padre Luyando has little difficulty in leading tliem into agricultural pursuits. He plants with his own hands five hundred vines, besides olive and fig trues, sugar canes, and many other exotic plants. He induces the Indians to sow consideralile quantities of wheat and maize annually ; so that on the fourth year of his residence among them, the whole harvest amounts to a thousand bushels of wheat, aud a fine quantity of niaizo and fruits. He also persuades them to form themselves into villages, and to erect adobie and bough-hou.ses. He introduces cattle, and makes every effort to create among them the desires of civilized life. And there is no doubt in the Padre's mind, that the adaptation of their country to the pursuits of hus- bandry, will greatly facilitate his wishes for their spiritual im- provement. But in the meantime all is not as fair as it seems. The old jugglers and priests of their former religion, so lately held in great respect, see their power aud wealth fading under the new order of things, and themselves becoming objects of contempt to the younger members of the tribe. It is not in the nature of civilized or uncivilized man, to bear such a change with indifference ; aud these men resolve to use what influence they have left, to recover their rank. Accordingly they insti- gate some unconverted Indians to oppose the Padre's labors by every available means. On a dark night, therefore, eight of them fall upon a catechumen, near the Padre's cottage, and murder him. After this outrage, they persuade a whole ran- cheria, at some distance from the mission, to refuse all intercourse with the Padre. In this neighborhood, for two years, bands of malcoutcuts shelter themselves, and dissuade the people from 230 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC, yielding to any advances from the CliristianH. And wlien at length three of its people arc baptized, they are obliged to take refuge in the house of the Padre, from the fury of their disaflfect- ed relatives. To all these outrages, the Padre makes no resistance, and for the evil, returns love, patience, and uniform kindness. Indeed, were he disposed to chastise them, ho has not the power. His feeble force would be useless against an active, vigilant and fearless band of savages. He therefore betrays no disposition to punish those wrongs. He has not yet learned from experi- ence, that undue forbearance is neither wisdom nor virtue. Some of the wild unconverted Indians, therefore, restrained by no fear of chastiscinent, falling upon a Cliristian rancheria, murder two men and a little girl. The remainder succeed in escaping to the mission. The Padre's people wish to avenge this outrage, but he restrains them, in the hope that forbearance may yet be effectual with these bad men. In this he is mis- taken. The savages concluding, from the quiet manner in which be submits to their treatment, and also from some kind messages and presents which the Padre has sent them, that he io helpless and fearful, are emboldened to attack other ran- cherias, and plunder the Christians wherever they meet them. These last outrages awaken in the Padre a determination to prevent their recurrence. Ho assembles his converts, and with them retires to Guadaloupe for safety. Effective measures are now taken. Three hundred and fifty converted Indians are armed; and having, by the Padre's permission, elected their own leader, they march against their foes with great spirit and determination. They find them enca'mped near a watering place at the base of a mountain. During the night they suc- ceed in surrounding them, and at day-break, raising the war shouts, advance on all sides upon the sleeping enemy. Finding themselves thus completely hemmed in by a force greatly su- perior to their own, they lay down their arms. Only two es- cape. The others, thirty-four in number, are taken to the mis« sion as pri<«ouers. tl s: V Liid wlien st J)liged to take lieir dlBaffect- |tancc, and for ess. Indeed, power. His vigilant and no disposition from expiri- in nor virtue, restrained by laii ranclieria, ler suecced in fish to avenge at forbearance this he is niis- liet manner in rom some kind t them, that he ;aek other ran- hey meet them, ietermination to nverts, and with ive measures are ted Indians are n, elected their great spirit and lear a watering night they suc- raising the war nemy. Finding orce greatly su- I. Only two es- akea to the mis* TRAVELS IN THE C A .< I F O R N I A B. 23 1 When thanks have been duly returned for this signal and cnsy victory, a court is organized from the soldiers and In- dian Alcaldes, for the trial of the prisoners. They are con- victed of the capital crimes of rebellion, robbery, and murder, and sentenced to be removed to Loretto for punishment. They are very much dejected at the prospect of death. The Indians of the mis.sion are elated with the hope of bciing permitted to execute them. But the Padres assure the prisoners that they shall not die; and reprove the unchristian exultation of their people ; instructing them that as Christians they should exer- cise charity and fcigiveness toward all men. Meantime some of the converts are so gently disposed toward the prisoners that they beseech the Padres to convene the court the next day, that the sentence may be reconsidered. The Indian converts now come before the soldiers and Indian Alcaldes, begging them to make the sentence of their enemies lighter. After some deliberation it is commuted to a certain number of lashes. The punishment is first inflicted on the principal murderer. The Padres then pray that it may be confined to him. This is most unwillingly complied with. They are therefore deprived of their arms and liberated. The prayers of the Padres are answered in the efi'ect which this treatment has upon their enemies. In a few months all these prisoners have become catechumens. The victory and lenity are of great service to the missionaries. The former in- timidates the unconverted Indians, the latter shows the excel- lence of the precepts of Christianity. Padre Luyando, however, now finds his health so much impaired that he must leave the nii«sion to recruit his exhausted energies. The Indians are deep- ly pained at parting with him. But his place is well filled by the kind and active Padre Sistiaga. The years 17"i9 and '30 bring heavy misfortunes on the mis- sions of California, in the death of two of the oldest and most valued laborers among them ; Padre Piccolo and Padro Ugarte. Both these men have by long years of the most arduous and faithful service, woven their names inseparably 9M SCENES IN THE rACIFIO. with the history of California, and left in thoir characters and lives, an example to all who would rear the cross in the solitary wilderness. Bold, indefatigable, self-denying, just, and true men, they were, who never shrank from any duty, however se- vere, and were never swerved by passion or love of ease, from the line of action marked out by judgment, truth and religious faith. Padro Piccolo expires in the garrison at Lorctto, on tho twenty-second of February, 1729, having lived seventy-nine years, twenty-two of which he has spent among tho missions of California. Padre Ugarto follows him the next year, hiving been thirty years a laborer on tho same ground. The deaths of these excellent men are momentous events in tho niis.'tionH. Their great experience, their uniform kindness, their zeal, tempered by wisdom and sagacity, their unblemished integrity, and the veneration in which their very names are held by the Indians, make them powerful co-operators with the young and active missionaries, even though age and debility forbid them a personal participation in their labors. At this time, too, their presence is particularly desired, for tho southern na- tions, never much relied on, are growing turbulent. The un- converted among them, and there -are many of these notwith- standing the efforts of Padre Bravo at La Paz, Padro Napoli at San Jago, and Padre Guillen at Dolores, lose no oceasion to insult and annoy those who have embraced the cross. They become so trouble.some that in 1723, Captain Rodriguez, with a company of soldiers, marched into their districts, to intimidate them, and, if possible, put an end to their outbreaks. In 1725, also, he finds it necessary to go with an armed force against some rancherias of Uchities and Guaycuros, who have been stimulated into rebellion, by a few mulattoes and mesti- zoes, renegades of foreign privateers, that have touched at Cape San Lucas. These difficulties will ripen into fearful scenes. Another attempt is now made to found an establishment at Palmas bay, the original seat of the mission San Jago de loa Coras. It is endowed by the Donna Rosa do la Penna, cousia of to Al fOi of tal to w« t\v wl Pn ed de: th< on dit ev( du of Pa pH liv (( inj aI pi sil aractcr! and 1 the Bolitary 8t, and true , however se- lf euso, from aud rcligioua rctto, on tho seventy-nuie tho niiHsions t year, having The deaths , the missions. 8, their zeal, shed integrity, re held by the the young and ;y forbid them this time, too, southern na- ent. The un- these notwith- , Padre Napoli lose no oceasion ced the cross, tain Rodriguez, eir districts, to their outbreaks, an armed force euros, who have ittoes and mesti- touched at Capo I fearful scenes, establishment at San Jago de los la Penna, cousin T TRi.VSLB IN T H K V A 1. I K O 3 N I A 8 2J3 of the Marquis de Ville Pucnte. This iiulividuiil also otVert to endow a third, in the neighborhood of Cape San Lucan. About this time. Padre Josef de Echeveria, the Mexican agent for California, is appointed by the papal court, Visitor General of the Jesuit missions; and he resolves to commence his visi- tation in California. Purchasing in Cinaloa, therefore, a bark to supply the place of one that, with a year's provisions, a few weeks before has been lost, he embarks at Ahome, and on the twenty-seventh day of October, arrives saf.'ly in Loretto bay, where he is received with great respect and affection by the Padres, and their Indians. Soon after his arrival, he is attack- ed with a most malignant fever. For many days his life is despaired of, but he recovers ; and while yet very feeble, leaves the garrison for the northern missions, with only the ensign, one soldier, and a few Indians. The Visitor finds great cause of rejoicing in the con- dition of the missions. The economy, neatness and order of everything connected with them, the quiet and regular con- duct of the Indian converts, and their progress in knowledge of temporal things, the patience, kindness and industry of the Padres, the good understanding between them and their peo- ple, and most of all, the progress Christianity has made in the bosom of the wilderness, touch the Padre's heart with the hveliest joy. In a letter dated the tenth of February, he says, « I was well rewarded for the fatigue and cold, were it only in seeing the fervor of these new Christian establishments. And the°least I could do was to shed tears of joy at so fre- quently hearing God praised from the mouths of poor crea- tures, who very lately did not so much as know whether there was such a being," After examining the missions of the north. Padre Echeveria prepares to visit those of the south, and establish the two mis- sions which have been endowed at Palraas bay and Cape San Lucas. But death and ill-health among the Padres render it impossible to carry both these plans into execution. Padre Segismund Taraval has been appointed to the charge of the mA m.Ksy.H IN T II K p A (• I r I c. forincM-, called Santa Rosa, in honor of the foundn'ss ; hutdocfl not arrive. And it is determined, therefore, to commence that at San Lucas, called San Jose del Cabo. This is a post which requires great integrity, zeal and address. Padre Tamaral, founder of the mission La Purissima, is therefore chosen to fill it. This Padre and the Visitor General embark on the tenth of March, and visiting on their way at the mis- sions of La Paz and San Jago de los Coras, proceed to San Lucas, and finding an agreeable spot a short distance from the Cape, erect a chapel and houses ; and though only about twenty families present themselves, the Padre founder enters upon his labors. As soon, however, as the Padre Visitor with his two soldiers leave the spot, they come in great numbers to Padre Tamaral, assigning as a reason for not appearing sooner, that they feared the Padres had come with the soldiers, to punish their assaults on the missions of San Jago and La Paz. Padre Tamaral makes a journey in search of the rancherias and the people whom he is to teach, and also of a better site for his mission. The present one is infested with musquitoes and other insects ; the dampness and extreme heat also render it intolerable. On becoming acquainted with the country, he determines to remove the mission to a spot about five leagues from the sea ; and proceeds at once to erect a chapel and houses on the new site. He labors in- cessantly to induce the natives who have hitherto led wander- ing lives, to settle in fixed habitations ;- and so successful is he, that in one year he has instructed and baptized one thousand and thirty-six souls ; and so far as their indolent roving cha- racter will permit, has bettered their temporal welfare. In the year 1730, Padre Tamaral undertakes to survey the islands which lie near the Pacific coast. Accompanied by six Indians, he sets out on the festival of San Xavier, and after travelling six days by land, reaches one of the capes or head- lands of a large bay, which he calls San Xavier. From this point they see two islands, lying some seven or eight leagues from the coast, which they determine to visit. Accordingly I I II II V 1 (1 b ii fi I It bi T It e: Ir isl is JL. TRi.TKI.« IN ■'■"E C AL.VOUN I A«, 2:rt ss ; but (loci coinini'iice his is a post ress. Padre is therefore leral embark at the rais- oceed to San listance from rh only about bunder enters re Visitor Awith eat numbers to lot appearing Ih the soldiers, 1 Jago and La search of the ti, and also of a one is infested ess and extreme ing acquainted he mission to a roceeds at once He labors in- erto led wander- » successful is he, ed one thousand ilent roving cha- il welfare, kes to survey the icompanietl by six Xavier, and after he capes or head- ivier. From this n or eight leagues sit. Accordingly having constru.le.1 a raft of timber, they pass over to the nearest on., and iiud it a small desert, not moie than hull a mile in length, and less in width. It is a bank of dry .-.and, with neilher a drop of water, nor a leaf of verdure upon it. It is called by the Indians Asegua, on account of the inun. rise floiks of birds which frequent it. Among these is a small jet black bir.l, something larger than a sparrow, which burrows in the sand, am makes its nest some four feet below the sur- face, retiring to it at night only, and living all day in the sea. There is another bird quite unlike any known to the I'adrc. It is about the size of a goose, with black wings, a snowy breast, and light-colored feet, and a beak like the carnivora. This also makes its nest three or four feet below the surface It is a lover of storm and tempest, and never retires to its nest except when the sea is calm. These birds are hunted by the Indians for food. About four or five leagues distant from this island, lies another, called by the Indians Amalgua, or fog island. It is several leagues in circumference, and of a tri- angular form. In its midst rises a conical mountain of con- siderable height. It has several fresh-water springs ; but no anchorage protected from the sea. Deer and rabbits live upon it. Among the latter is a small black species with fur finer than that of the beaver. It is frequented by a variety of birds, and sea-wolves, on which its inhabitants chiefly sub- sist. They find also a fruit here called mexcales, which is juicy and very pleasant. A variety of beautiful shells lie on the shore ; some of an exquisite azure hue. From the top of the mountain on this island, the explorers have a view of two other small ones, eight or ten leagues to the westward There are also in the bay of San Xavier three other small idlands, which are frequented by the sea-wolf and beaver Farther northward they discover others, which they conjecture to be those that form the channel of Santa Barbara. Thev can obtain no information respecting these latter from the people of Amalgua. For they inform the Padre that their 236 SCENES N THE PACIFIC. sorcerers have prohibited them all intercourse with tneir in- habitants, and even the privilege of looking toward their. The Padre finds no difficulty in persuading the people of Amalgua to accompany him to the mission. The only oppo- sition arises from an old sorcerer. But his influence efl'ects nothing. Even his own wife proposes to leave him if he will not go with them. And he also finally consents. They em- bark, therefore, on their raft for the coast ; but are obliged to seek shelter from a storm, on the dt3ert island of Asegua, and remain there several days. With the return of fair weather, they put oflf again for the continent. As they are floating along close in shore, they discover some sea-wolves disporting themselves on a sand bank ; and the sorcerer, anxious to vent his ill-humor upon something, and being a dexterous swim- mer, plunges into the water for the purpose of killing one of the animals. They all flee at his approach ; but in attempt- ing to return to the raft he is seized, in sight of the whole cc .npany, by an enormous shark ! By some extraordinary feat, however, he clears himself; and, not satisfied with this, throws the blood, which issues from his wounds, at the hun- gry fish ! He is seized a second time with a hold not so shaken off. The exasperated fish goes down with him ; and no trace of his existence is left, except a faint red tinge which slowly rises, and fades into the deep green of the sea ! Padre Tar aval now receives orders from the Visitor General to proceed at once to the erection of his new mission among the Coras, at Palmas bay. It is particularly desirable that it shall go into early operation. For the continual presence of the Padres is indispensable to keep these turbulent and deceitful people in subordination. All preparation being therefore speedily made, Padre Taraval travels from Loretto to the bay of La Paz, thence to the mission of San Jago, at Palmas bay, and founds his mission on the old site of San Jago. He finds his people somewhat advanced by the former efforts of Padre Napoli, and the visits which they have received from Padres Carranco and Tamaral. it as no ba BU( ris A] I ft \ r t ha| ni(j b| 01 L TRAVELS IN THE JALIFORNIAS. 237 Ivith tneir in- ward their, le people of le only oppo- luence eflec-ts Ihim if he will They em- Jare obliged to f Asegua, and fair weather, y are floating Ives disporting nxious to vent xterous swim- killing one of )ut in attempt- it of the whole : extraordinary lisfied with this, ids, at the hun- a hold not so with him ; and red tinge which the sea ! Visitor General mission among iesirable that it ual presence of turbulent and ?paration being els from Loretto on of San Jago, n the old site jwhat advanced the visits which and Tamaral. Nevertheless, be meets with so much violent opposition, that it requires all his address to advance his objects in such manner as not to arouse these Indians' malevolence. But he succeeds, not only in bringing a great part of the unconverted to seek baptism, but also in winning their confidence and affection to ■uch a degree, that at a future period they save his life at the risk of their own. CHAPTER XIV. A Rebellion attempted — Arrival from the Seas — The Sick— Departure— ^ Disaffection among the Indians — Insiirrect'on — Fearful Times — Martyrdom of Padres Carranco and Tamaral — All the Missions in a State of Revolt — The Padres retire to Lc-etto— Aid denied by the Viceroy — It comes from the Indians themselves — The Missions in the North send Delegates to the Padres — Peace made and Padres resume their Labors — Southern Missions Recovered — Indians reduced to Subjection — Condition of the Conquest in 1745. Meantime, in the winter of 1733-4, some signs of revolt have appeared in the missions San Jago and San Josef. The chief, called Boton, the offspring of an Indian and a negro, a most profligate mulatto, who has been reproved by the Padre Carranco, for some of his excesses, and afterward continuing in the same practices, has been punished publicly, allies him- self with another mulatto, named Chicori, belonging to the mission San Josef, whom the Padre has also chidden on ac- count of similar vices. These miserable men seek revenge. Accordingly they excite the unfriendly Indians in every possi- ble way to an outbreak at San Jago. Padre Tamaral bearing of this, and unsuspicious that the like is growing in his own mission, hastens to San Jago to assist Padre Carranco in quelling the diflBcuIties. Boton being absent when he ar- 1 238 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. rives, little disposition exists among the Indians to persist; and Padre Tamaral proposes to return to his own mission. But he is informed by a friendly Indian that Bototi and Cliicori, with two bodies of men, are stationed on his route, to kill him. Being satisfied of the truth of this report by men dis- patched to reconnoitre, the Padre sends to his catechumens at San Josef, to arm themselves and go in quest of the enemy. These, faithful to their teacher, put them to flight, burn their dwellings, and escort the Padre home in peace and triumph. The leaders of the rebellion now come in, and beg for peace. It is concluded in 1734, with the great rejoicings of both parties. When all is settled, the Indians confess their intention to have murdered all the missionaries in the country. A few days after this, some Indians who have been fishing oiT Cape San Lucas, come running to the mission with much joy and wonder express- ed in their countenances, and inform the Padre that a large ship is near the Cape, standing directly toward tlie bay San Barnabe. The Padre sends a young man of Loretto to ascer- tain wliat this report means, and soon learns that a Phili])piue galleon has come to anchor in the bay, and has sent a party of armed men asI\ore for water. Tiie mariners of this vessel are much rejoiced to hear that a mission has been erected in the neighborhood; and inform the good Padre that, besides their want of water, they are so dreadfully afflicted with tlie scurvy tliat ihey require his kindest attentions. Tlie Padre, tlierefore, orders his Indians to collect fresh acid fruits and convey them on board. At tlie same time he directs the greatest part of the cattle to be driven down for the use of the afflicted mariners, encourages the Indians to assist them in filling their water vessels, and otherwise shows them every at- tention within his power to bestow. Under such treatment, all the sick speedily recover, except three. These are more dis- eased than the others; and accordingly, when the ship is ready to sail, they are invited to remain at the mission. Tlicir names are, Don Josef Francisco de Baytos, Captiin of Ma- rines, Don Antonio de Herrera, boatswain, and the Most llev. ot ar Hi di wi P' of ol. fr. L TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 239 persist; and lission. But and Olilcori, ■oute, to kill •t by men dis- itecbumcus at )f the enemy, lit, bum tbeir and triumph, for peace. It ■ both parties, ention to have few days after ipe San Lucas, ?oiider exprcss- B that a large I the bay San oretto to asccr- lat a Philippine scut a party of this vessel are erected in the t, besides their with the scurvy 'adre, therefore, lits and convey cts the greatest the use of the assist them in them every at- ch treatment, all se are more dis- the ship is ready mission. Tlioir Captain of Ma- id the Most llev. Domingo de Horbigoso, of the order of San Augustine. They are commended to Padre Tamaral, by Captain Do.. Goron.n.o Montero, and the Padre Commissa.-y, Matthias do Ibarra. The Captain inforn.s Padre Tamaral that the galleon will al- ways put in here for water and the recovery of the sick; and desires that a supply of cattle may be kept on band for thein. This the Padre promises, and the galleon weighs anchor ior Acapulco. . . , The Padre takes his three patients to the miss.on, and de- votes his tendcrest skill and assiduity to their recovery. Every luxury or delicacy the region affords is kept exclusively for the.r comfort. He sends to the neighboring missions for the best of their stores, and gives them his own food to eat. In a word, he spares no self-denial or care for their benefit ; and has the plea- sure of seeing them all recover. But the boatswain is attacked by another disease, which proves fatal, and is buried with proper solemnity, in the little church. In the follo-ang April, Cap- tain Baytos and Padre Horbigoso, being entirely recovered, leave San Josef for Mexico, in a vessel which has come up from La Paz for that purpose. The Padre missionaries continue their labors; patiently hoping that these miserable Indians will, in time, come to such a state of comfort as shall, in some measure, compensate them for their efforts. In the summer of 1734, Padre G.n-don, of La Paz, goes to Lorctto to hasten the supplies for his own and the other missions of the south. Don Manuel Andres Romero, who superintends the mission during his absence, discovers some disaffection among the Indians. It seems, however, easily allayed. They appear happy and tranquil. Jut under this appearance, a most sanguinary spirit is at work ' The Indians are becoming weary of the restraint im- posed on their beastly propensities by the presence and rule o*^ the Padres. The greatest trial, is the abrogation of their oid laws, permitting polygamy. They are also prevented fro.n entering into those bloody wars which have so long been their principal pastime; and from seeking revenge on those 240 «CENE8 IN THE PACIFIC, who injure thorn. Altogether, the restraint of Chriglianity, thf pergonal malignity of Boton and Chicori, and the defcncelegf state of the missions, encourage these ignorant savages to at tempt a revolt and the butchery uf those \?honi they esteem theii oppressors. It must not be understood that there are none among the converted to oppose so wicked a step, and abide by their spiritual fathers through all the troubles which follow. On the contrary, large numbers feel the deepest grief and shame at the conduct of their countrymen. But only a small portion of all the natives have ever professed Christianity. So that if none of these are unfaithful, the majority will be greatly in favor of the rebels. The insurgents find some difficulty in concocting their plains. Their only fear is lest the arms of the soldiers shall do better execution than their own. And although among the four mis- sions of Santa Rosa, La Paz, San Jago and San Josef, tiiere are but seven, two of whom arc invalids, they turn their first attention to disposing of them. Tiio first act of violence, there- fore, is the murder of one of Padre Taraval's soldiers, whom they fall upon wlien alone and unarmed, at some distance from the mission. They next repair to the Padre, and inform him that the man is suddenly taken very ill in the woods, and de- sires him to come to his relief. Tlie Padre, having received some vague hints of the rising ditticulties, suspects all is not right; and on questioning tliem closely, concludes from their confused manner, that they have murdered the man, and intend to draw him from the house alone for the same bloody pur- pose. He therefore declines going or sending a second sol- dier ; but does not in any other way show suspicion or fear. In a few days this murder is followed by that of Don Andres Romero, at La Paz. This remains some time a secret among the perpetrators; so that they are encouraged by these suc(('sses to more open demonstrations in the district of Sau Jago j all which the Ppdre, from his defencelesH condition and Ihs desire to avoid provoking tlie Indians, suffers to pass 7it'' out notice. di se ph co: ni( to an to vai for fin not to poi of sol leaj wh( J Gu ly Bu froJ the] Ori whj briJ fori senl Jof iniJ L TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 241 IhriBlianity, thf the defencclesf savages to at ley esteem theii there arc none p, and abide by 8 which follow, grief and shame a small portion lity. So that if ,11 be greatly in ting their plains. I shall do better \!t the four mis- San Josef, there turn their first violence, there- soldiers, wlioui ine distance from , and inform him e woods, and de- I, having received uppects all is not eludes from their e man, and intend same bloody pur- ling a second sol- how suspicion or 1 by that of Don some time a seoro^^ Bouraged by these be district of Sau eless condition and ififers to pass 7it'' About this time Padre Tamaral is attaclted with a dangernis disease; and being alone with the Indians of his mission, ho sends for a soldier from Loretto to act as guard, nurse and physician. This soldier, after his arrival at San Jago, becomes convinced that danger broods among the savages. He commu- nicates his thoughts to Padre Tamaral, and offers to carry him to La Paz. But the latter thinks his fear magnifies the danger, and refuses to go. The soldier declares ho will not stay there to die at the hands of bloodthirsty Indians ; but he cannot pro- vail upon the Padre to accompany him. lie leaves him, there- fore, and goes directly to La Paz. As usual, on his arrival, he fires his musket at a certain distance from the mission, to giro notice of his approach. But no answer is made. He walks up to the house. All is silent and solitary as the tomb ! A rifled portmanteau, some broken utensils and furniture, and some drop i of blood on the floor, tell a story which thrills the breast of the solitary man ! He hastens on to Dolores, a distance of sixty leagues, through a wilderness; along road for a single man, when death lurks under every bush and tree ! He arrives safely, however, and immediately acquaints Padre Guillea with the state of affairs below. The Padre immediate- ly sends instructions to his brother to withdraw to Dolores. But close upon the heels of the previous tidings, follow letters from Padre Carranco, informing him of an insurrection among the Pericues, and requesting instructions how to proceed. — Orders are therefore dispatched for all to repair to La Paz, whithur he sends a canoe and seventeen faithful Indians, to bring them to Dolores. But the letters never reach the hands for which they are written ! At tlie same time Padre Carranco sends a body of Christian Indians to Padre Tamaral at San Josef, entreating that he will permit them to escort him to his mission for safety and counsel. The Padre replies, that no signs of danger have appeared in his mission ; that he thinks fear augments small things to great; that he trusts in God, whom he desires to serve in life and death ; and does not think bis condition such as to justify him in forsaking his mission 242 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. The Indiant) who have been sent for him, on thoir return fall in with a party of rebels, and inform them that Padre Carranco is made acquainted with all their plans by the boy who lives in his house. They therefore change their design of falling upon Padre Tamaral. It is deemed more important to cut off Padre Carranco, in order to prevent his giving in- formation of their purposes, or calling aid from other missionb. They communicate their plans to some of the converted In- dians of San Jago, and with menaces and warnings, invite them to join their party. After some wavering tbey do so ; and the whole body moves toward the mission to take the lifo of their beat friend and benefactor. They reach it between BIX and seven in the morning, on Friday, the first of October 1734. The good Padre has just left the chapel after Mass, and is engaged at his private devotions in his own chamber. They first inquire for the two mestizos, or half-breeds, who tict as the Padre's guard ; and are informed that they have gone, by his order, to drive in two animals for the use of the mission. These then are not in the house to fire upon them. Neverthe- less, conscious of criminal intentions, they keep at u safe dis- tance and send in messengers, wiih the letter of Padre Ta- maral. Padre Carranco is on his knees praying, when they enter. But be rises and receives them affectionately ; expresses his surprise that Padre Tamaral is not come with them ; and asks if they bring no letter ? They say " Yos," and give it to him. The Padre begins to read ; and when ab- sorbed in its contents, the whole body of conspirators rush tu- multuously into the house. Two of them seize and drag him out between the house and ihe church, and there hold Lim by the gown, while others stab him through the body with arrows ! And while his blood flows from the wounds, the dying Padre offers most earnest prayer to God that He will accept this sacrifice of his life for his own sins and 'Lbose of his deluded Indians I I whi woi seef dea Go AtK soni byi of are raiK a dial mar anic thof Jos voti him draj and H to dar cno aiK ma ter otli lar of vie tb( an thoir return m that Padre ns by the boy Ige their design ore important t his giving in- other misaioDb. converted In- ramings, invite ing they do so ; to take the life each it between first of October tcr Mass, and is hamber. They ds, who uct na ly have gone, by 3 of the mission, hem. Neverthe- p at a, safe dis- er of Padre Ta- i praying, when a aflfectionately ; > not come with hey say " Yos," 1 ; and when ab- pirators rush tu- se and drag him lere hold uim by ody with arrows 1 the dying Padro will accept this se of his deluded TRAVELS IN THE CALlFonNlAS, 243 After the wretches sec that the Padre's life is far spent, they whip him with sticks, and bruise him with stones! Ilia last word is a prayer for his murderers ! Meantime one of tliem sees the boy who waited on the Padre, crying bitterly at the death of the good man, and says to him, " Why do you cry ? Go now, and tell the Padre what is doing in tlio ranehcrius!" Another adds Fcornfully, " as ho loved the Padre, it is but rea- sonable he should go and keep him company ;" and taking him by the feet, they dash out his brains upon the floor and walls of the house, and cast him into the place where otlicrs are beating and stoning the cold body of the good old Car- runco. Tiie uproar of these infernal proceedings brings together In- dians of all ages and sexes. Some are indignant at such iniiu- manity ; but dare not interpose to stop its progress. For among the murderers are some of the principal converts, even those who have been sent to escort Padre Taniaral from San Josef; the very men who joined the Padre in liis morning de- votions, are now sharing the rancor and fury of others against him. Some are heaping wood together to burn him ; otliers aro dragging his bloody and disfigured body, bristling with arrows, and still manifesting signs of life, toward the flaming pile ! Here they strip him, not so much for the sake of his raiment, as to heap their execrable insults upon the naked body of him who dared to reprove their infamous bestialities ! The sliocking enormities practised upon his corpse, their revolting scurrility and lewdness while tramping, shouting, and jeering over his re- mains, must not be written. These, and all other parts of this terrible tragedy, show that the new doctrine of chastity and other Christian laws connected with tiie wedded state, particu- larly that which forbids a plurality of wives, are the chief causes of this malignity and murder ! And now, amid savage shouts, outrages and dancings, lasci- viousness, shocking pollutions and execrations, they raise upim their shoulders the body of the venerable Lorenzo Carranco and his little servant, and tumble them together upou the 244 SCENES IN THE FACIFIC. funeral pile I They next proceed to pillage the house and church I The clothing and such furniture as they can use they keep. The crucifixes, the statues of saints, the altars, the cha- lice, the missal, and other things used in worship, they heap upon the burning body of the Padre. Amidst the wild exulta- tions which accompany this act of contempt toward the religion of their murdered friend, the two domestics of the Padre como with the mules. Around these, as fresh objects of a fury not yet exhausted, they gather, and bid them kill the ani- mals. No sooner have they done it, than the demon crowd pour a shower of arrows into them, and while still shriek- ing in the agonies of death, throw them upon the burning pile. After perpetrating these cruelties at San Jago, the murder- ers go toward the mission of San Josef Their number is now greatly increased. The disaffected from all the southern parts of the peninsula, with many of the well-disposed who have join- ed them to save their own lives, are gathered together. This company now approach San Josef. It is the Sabbath. Pa- dre Tamaral's prayers for his poor benighted flock have been offered at dawn. It is now eight o'clock. He is sitting in his house, meditating on the means of extending his useful- ness to these wretched Califoruians, when a party of the sedi- tious, consisting chiefly of the Indians of his own mission, break in upon him, all demanding something, in order that, being refused, they may have a cause of quarrel with him. Perceiving their design, however, the Padre replies mildlj', " Stay, my children, there is enough in the house to content you all." Being thus disappointed in getting a pretense for resentment, and not waiting even to contrive any other excuse, the very men who killed the Padre at San Jago, beat Padre Tamaral to the ground, drag him by the feet out of the house, and shoot arrows into his body. After this, the multitude rush up and demand that his throat shall be cut with the knife which he was accustomed to use in giving them food. This good man, like his brother martyr, prays for his murderers ! A to bk sin wh tic tht inj of lai in vie lift thi Ca ha hie Th an it th. rii ne he at nc F al ci TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAB. 245 le house and ' can use they tars, the cha- lip, they heap e wild cxulta- •d the religion le Padre conio cts of a fury kill the aui- demon erowd still shriek- n the burning ;o, the murder- umber is now southern parts who have join- ogcther. This Sabbath. Pa- flock have been [c is sitting in ling his useful- irty of the sedi- 8 own mission, in order that, irrel with him. replies mildly, 3use to content ; a pretense for ny other excuse, ago, beat Padre )ut of the house, !, the multitude ut with the knife icm food. This his murderers ! A villain approaches him with the knife. He implores God to save the sou! of him who is about to slay him ! The fatal blow is struck ! The dying man commends himself and Ins sinning flock to the Great Shepherd of the human race, and while uttering the name of the Saviour, expires ! Thoy prac- tice more abominable insults upon the body of Padre Tan.aral than they have upon that of Padre Carranco. And now be- ing relieved from the fear of their victims, a great multitude of all ages assemble, and, for many days, celebrate their vil- lanies with that most brutish licentiousness with which, in the time of their infidelity, they used to solemnize their victjOncs ! The delay occasioned by these infernal orgies saves the life of Padre Taraval at Todos Santos. A boy belonging to this village happens to be in San Jago on the day of Pudro Carranco's murder ; and while the rebels go to San Josef, ho hastens home and relates what he has seen to an old inan of his rancheria, who immediately induces him to tell the Padre. The old man offers to convey the Padre to a neighboring island, and with his friends, die, if need be, in his defence; but thinks it out of their power to protect him at the mission. While they are counselling, the boy's narrative is confirmed by the ar- rival of some Indians belonging to Santa Rosa, who have wit- nessed Padre Tamaral's martyrdom. There is now no more hesitation. To stay will be madness ; nay, a suicide, which can answer no good purpose, since the Padre's presence can protect no one else. Indeed, there is little if any danger to others. For they only desire to destroy the Padres, that they may enjoy all the savage liberty of butchery and vice, which thoy exer- cised before these men came among them. On the ni.rht of the fourth of October, therefore, Padre Tara- val taking with him, from Todos Santos, the furniture of the altar, repairs to the bay of La Paz, and taking all the orna- ments and consecrated utensils of the mission at this place, goes on board the boat which Padre Guillen has sent in compli- ance with Padre Carranco's request, and sails for the Island 246 8CENK8 IN TUG, PACIFIC. del Spiiitu Santo, wliere ho fortunately nioctH another boa( with iirovirtions and (ruards from Lorctto. With tht'se tiie good man hastens to Dolores, in order to prevent tlie savages from executing tiieir bh)()dy intentions against I'lidrt! Guillen. He arrives safely, and finds tiie good Padre overwhelmed with sorrow at the fato of tlio beloved Carraneo. Hut his grief knows no bound when lio learns that Padre Taniaral has fallen in the same manner, and that the four missions of San J;igo, San Josef, Santa liusa, and El Pilar de la Paz, are utterly ruined. While this melancholy conference is being held, the insur- gents, flushed with success, rt^pair to the village of Todos San- tos, whence Padre Taraval has just fled. Their rage is I'xtrtMno when they find tiieir intended victim escaped , they vent their disappointment on the Christian Indians in the neighburhuod. Twenty-seven of these are killed. The rest flee I Having now no common enemy against whom to direct their hatred, they fall into quarrels among themselves, and practice against efich other the same treachery and cruelty they have shown the Padres and Christian Indians I Meantime, Padre Guillen, as superior of California, on the first knowledge of these outrages, writes to the Viceroy of Mexico, informing him of their losses, and the danger which threatens them, and begging immediate measures may be taken to repair the one and remove the other. But his Excellency estimates life and missionary eflfort in California too lightly, to trouble himself much with the good Padre's complaints. He writes that he is sensible of the dangers to which they arc ex- posed, and also of the great importance of the missions to re- ligion and the King ; and that he will, with pleasure, concur with the Padres in any statement which they shall judge proper to be made to their sovereign in respect to them ; and will use bis utmost interest with his Majesty, for the adoption of such measures as shall tend to promote their prosperity. He adds, that if he can obtain a warrant from his majesty to aid them, he will execute it in its full extent. In short, the Viceroy, like man tren faitli but throi Ii viok rettc val, initti bold. it pr previ tribe go fc of th from two alarr keepl pie tecti ■ and ord( Lo Th re onci mi ger sue aga am the TRAVELS IN THE CAL1FOBNIA8. 247 anotlior bosl ith tlu'Hi! tlie it tlu! Hiiviigea 'adri! Oiiilli'ii. wlu'liiu'il with But his firief iral has falh^u of San Jago, iz, arc utterly eld, the insur- of TodoH Sau- •a<'i! is oxtriMiio hey viMit tlieir neighborhood. to direct their 3S, and practice lelty they have liforiiia, on the ;he Viceroy of i danger which ;8 may be taken t his Excellency a too lightly, to ioniplaints. He ich they arc ex- 3 missions to re- pleasure, concur lall judge proper nn ; and will use adoption of such lerity. Ho adds, ,y to aid them, he the Viceroy, like many modern politicians and placemen, says much that is ex- trcmcly flattering to the general cause of missions, and of the faithfulness and assiduity of these missionaries in particular, but docs not raise a hand to turn the assassin's knife from their throats. In the meantime, as the rebellion increases, and some signs ot violence appear at Dolores, tlw captain of the garrison at Lo- retto repairs thither with some soldiers. He finds Padre Tara- val, from whom he learns the cruel murders that have been com- mitted at Sau Jago and Josef. But as the Indians are em- boldeued by their successes, and his band is very small, he thinks it prudent to remain at Dolores, and by pres.Tving order there, prevent, if possible, the flame from spreading to the northern tribes. But notwithstanding all his precautions, the evil tidings go forth. As if the winds of heaven served the wiiiked purposes of the enemy, they spread in an incredibly short space of time from Cape San Lucas to San Ignacio, a distance of more than two hundred leagues, and infect the common Indians to an alarming extent. But the chiefs of the tribes remain firm, and keep the Padres informed of the designs entertained by the peo- ple. They also beg to be participants of any measures for pro- tection which may be devised. Padre Guillen finding affairs grow mor(> and more desperate, and no assistance adequate to the emergency offering itself, issues orders early in the year 1735, for all the missionuries to repair to Loretto, and put themselves under the protection of the garrison. These orders happily are acted on without the knowledge of the rebels, till the Padres are beyond their reach. Padre Guillen once more addresses the Viceroy, informing him that all the missions are forsaken, and that they are still in imminent dan- ger, even at Loretto— for the garrison is too weak to contend successfully with such a body of savages as may be brought against it, should there, as they anticipate, be a general rising among the tribes. These dispatches are sent to the river Yaqui, in Senora, and thence by Indian converts to Mexico. They arrive on the thir- §49 BCKNES IN THE PACIFIC. teenth of April, 1735, and tho Provincial of Now Spain imme diately deliviTS tlicni to the Viceroy. But tliougli he urpc« at- tention to them in two nieiiiDriiils, prnyinj^ liim to eoiiBidcr the ininiediato danger of tho I'lulren, the man of authority refur.es to do anything in the preiniHCS. Tlie Provincial has recourse to his Majesty. A whip being then ready to sail for Madrid, he forwards to Padre (j-.spar llodero, agent general at court of tho Society of Je'sus for the Indian ProvinccB, who lays it before his Majostry, and prays his earliest action upon it. But long be- fore the Hoyul pleasure can be known in the New World, help has come to the litlle baud at Loretto from the seed tlieir own liands have sown. / It appears that as soon as it became known to the more reflecting of the converts, that the Padres had gathered up tho eonsecratud utensils of the churches, and departed to Loretto, a sense of Bhamc at their ingratitude, and a conception of the value of tlio Padres' services, forced themselves upon their stupid minds, and made them repent their want of fidelity. Accordingly they now begin to act. Reciprocal messages are sent through the country inviting each other to rendezvous and follow the Padres to Loretto. They come in bauds from each mission, and form themselves into a long procession, the head men of San Igiiacio bearing on their shoulders the crucifixes of their mission, those of Nuestra Sonorado Gaudaloupe, the crucifixes of their mission, and those of Santa Rosalia, the crucifixes of their mission ; and in silent sadness move on to Loretto, enter tho fort and stand weeping before the Padres' dwelling ! They say, " You have baptized us ; you have taught us the name and worship of tho true God ; you have gathered ua from tlie dry mountains to the watered vales ; you have made us believe that good acts alone bring happiness ; you have made us your children ; will you now forsake us ? We cannot live as we did before we saw you ; we do not want to die in the crimes of our dark days !" Thus they reason with the Padres. " It is not just," they say, "that a whole nation should suffer for the sins of a few ; especially when the mass are willing and able to deliver the criminal to H "%.] r Rpnin inime ;li he. \irp'H i»t- <'(>iiHi(liT the tliority ri'f'u:> 4, m? U /a V V e /a V ^. ///// pSU. < 1.0 If 1^ 1^ ■& l£ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation '*?,'■ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 J^'4^. w^ , 1 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques the prr pic th( th( to fai th. 8p( Bli So pr 19 th th ce ni Pi vc fr til Ii T ol 01 tl tl tl 8' n 1; TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 249 the pnnishment their evil deeds merit." With one voice they promise to protect the Padres in every emergency. They im- plore them to return ; and declare tliat if they refuse to do so, they also will remain at Loretto, for they will not live without them and their religion ! The Padres and garrison are afiectod to tears hy these evidences of contrition and attachment to the faith. They delay a few days in order to test the sincerity of the Indians, liut noticing no defection they repair to their re- spective districts and are receiTcd with tumultuous joy by their people. The conspirators arc surrendered : some of them are slightly flogged ; and four of the most guilty of the band at San Ignacio are banished a short time from aM the missioQ premises. Tliis submission and fidelity on the part of the Californians is followed by a most gratifying manifestation of sympathy by the Ymjuis across the Gulf. These Indians, always noted for their honesty and bravery, assemble immediately ui)on the re- ceipt of Padre liravo's letter detailing the condition of Califor- nia, to the number of five hundred warriors, and offer to go and put down the insurgents. But as the bilandcr, wliicli is to con- vey them, can take only a fraction of that number, they select from among themselves sixty of their best warriors, and send them, with five hundred bows and arrows to arm the friendly Indians of the peninsula to fight in their stead. With these the bilander sails and lands them near Loretto. Thence they march to Dolores. Here they meet the commander of the garrison, who greets them with the warmest expressions of gratitude for their generous conduct; but informs tbem that traiKiuillity has been restored among the northern missions by the Indians themselves. It is therefore determined to divide their strength between Loretto and La Paz. Accordingly, a sufficient force having been left in the former place, the re- mainder start in two divisions, the one by the sea, the other by land, for La Paz. On the landing of the sea party, the strictest military dig' cipline is preserved. This precaution proves of no slight sen- 1 250 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. vice. For the lawless and still bloodthirsty savages, attack th(;m on several successive nights with much skill and fury. A luw arc killed and several wounded. At length the land party arrives. A portion of these being mounted on horses, which the Indians suppose to be the running gear of irresistible mon- sters topped with the trunks and heads of men, so intimidate them that they flee, and are no more seen by night or by day for some time. At length, however, a few re-appear and join the Padres' forces. These protest that they have always been faithful, and have consequently suffered much from the insur- gents. They declare that the rebels have committed some re- cent atrocities upon the crew of a Philippine galleon. They re port the affair in this wise. The ship arrived there from Ma- nilla, with many of her crew sorely afflicted with scurvy ; and as her signals were not answered from the mission, the captain sent the pinnace ashore with thirteen men to inform the Padre of his presence. As the boat neared the beach, the people were surprised to see neither any person nor sign of life. The greater part of them landed and walked toward the mission, but on their way the armed Indians rushed upon them and killed every man, or rendered him helpless, on the spot I Hav- ing murdered these, they hastened to the pinnace, and finding tliose who were left in charge of it no more guarded than the other party bad been, dispatched them also. They then seized the pinnace and broke it up for the old iron, nails, spikes, &c. While all this was going on, the captain of the galleon began to feel some anxiety at the long delay of his pinnace, and sent a band of armed marines in the long boat to seek her. A most unexpected and painful sight met the eyes of these seamen when they reached the shore. Their pinnace was sur- rounded by a swarm of leaping and furious savages. It was already reduced to fragments; and the dead bodies of several of their companions lay upon the beach, trodden on and man- gled by their ruthless murderers. Dreadfully enraged at this sight, the mariners and soldiers leaped ashore into the thickest of ar wc bo ag ni( nii ha coi tec slu rai fer coi sen sul hin to arc faei eril off del wij ni^ irill dm spj wi gel tol thi 't ivages, attack and fury. A the land party horses, which •esistible raon- 80 intimidate ight or by day ipear and join re always been rom the insur- litted some re- eon. They re here from Ma- th scurvy ; and ion, the captain form the Padre the people were I of life. The ,rd the mission, upon them and the spot 1 Hav- ace, and finding uarded than the Chey then seized »n, nails, spikes, n of the galleon y of his pinnace, »ng boat to seek the eyes of these pinnace was sur- savages. It was bodies of several dden on and man- ly enraged at this B into the thickest '•ymm^^' TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 251 of their foes, and gave them battle. A few minutes with fire- arms settled the question of victory. Some of the villains were wounded, some killed, and four captured alive and taken on board the siiip. The narrators saw the ship leave her anchor- age and stand awuy for the Pacific. They know nothing more. It soon appears, however, that the Captain left port without making any other attempt to procure water or provisions ; and having put into Acapulco, sent his four prisoners and an ac- count of the murder of his crew to Mexico. The Viceroy now begins to appreciate the importance of pro- tecting the missions of California. The lives of the Padres a short time before could not be preserved without a special war- rant from Madrid. But as liis own credit at Court would suf- fer from the representations of tlie officers of the galleon, it be- comes a moral duty to quell the insurrection. Accordingly he Bends orders to the governor of Cinaloa to go over to the penin- sula with a sufficient body of men to restore peace, but directs him to act independently of the Padres and never in subordination to the Cai)tain of the garrison. These measures of the Viceroy are made known in California, and Padre Guillen, in order to facilitate their execution, despatches the bilander for the gov- ernor and his forces, and at the same time directs the Captain of the garrison to repair to Dolores, and there remain on the defensive until further orders. In due time the bilander returns. The governor is received with great respect and joy by the Padres, and with the custo- mary honors by the garrison. He, however, soon shows that he intends to reject all advice from the former, and act in the re- duction of the country as he shall think proper. He therefore spends two years in mana>uvering, and attempted ' j.j.dities with a fugitive foe, whom he knows not how to bring into a general engagement. At the close of the year 1730, he is obliged to confess that he has efl'ected nothing for the suppression of the rebellion. At this time the Padres lose one of their number— Padre 252 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. Julian de Mayorga, founder of tho mission San Josfif do Com. uiondo. lie lias ruled his mission ever since its origin, 1707, greatly to the improvement and happiness of his Indians, and in such manner as to win the respect and love of all who knew liim. His death, therefore, is a cause of deep grief to his bre- thren and tlie Indians of his mission, liut while they lament for themselves that ho is gone, they rejoice for him that he rests from the turbulence and anxiety which have been the portion of all for the last three years. The governor becoming convinced that he can accomplish no- thing on his present plan of proceeding, resolves to adopt the Pudrc's advice, and take some steps which shall make him a terror to the Indians. Accordingly he sets out with his troops in earnest pursuit of tbem, and has the good fortune to compel them to an action in which they are utterly vanquished. They have, however, been too long successful to be subdued by one defeat. Instead, therefore, of making any overt\ires of peace, they defy the governor and provoke his wrath in a series of most annoying skirmishes. He accordingly forces them to a second engagement, in which they are again put to rout. Soon after, they submit and implore his pardon. But he rejects all their advances until they deliver up the leaders of the rebellion, especially those who have murdered the Padres. It will be supposed that a severe punishment was inflicted ou those men. But the policy of the governor and Padres in Cali- fornia is singularly unlike that which prevails in the parent country. Here blood is never shed by way of revenge or punishment. These rebels, thereforoi who have perpetrated two of the most revolting murders on record, beside the more common butcheries of their own countrymen, and the crew of tlie galleon's pinnace, are tried and banished to the coast of Mexico. On their way over, they rise and attempt to take the bark. This compels the mariners to fire on them and kill more than half their number. Among the few that escape, are the two whose hands shed the blood of the venerable Padres. One of TrtAVKLS IN THE CALIF ORNIAS. 253 1 Josnf dfi Com- its origin, 1707, Indians, and in f all wlio knew [rrief to his bro- hile tliey lament lim that he rests m the portion of ,n acconipUsh no- ves to adopt the hall make him a it with his troops jrtune to compel mquished. They subdued by one i^ertiircs of peace, ath in a series of forces them to a )ut to rout. Soon But he rejects all rs of the rebellion, es. jnt was inflicted on md Padres in Call- rails in the parent vay of revenge or I have perpetrated rd, beside the more m, and the crew of ;d to the coast of 3t to take the bark, ind kill more than escape, are the two ,le Padres. One of 1 I these two is, the next year, killed in an affray; and the other falls from tho top of a palm tree upon some roeks, and is so horribly mutilated and torn a.s to be hardly reeognizable. The reuiaiiuliT iievor return to their country. Thus, after three years of trepidation and violence, peace is restored to California. And it is cliicfly attributable to the prudence and forbearance of the Padres that tho whole peninsula has not been deluged with blood. The refusal of the Viceroy in the first instance to protect the missions without a special order from his sovereign, results in a commission tVom his Majesty requiring him to erect a new gar- rison at Cape San Lucas ; and to take such other measures as may be reiiuired to support the missions and maintain the con- quests of tlie Padres. This, like all other efforts of that nation ill similar matters, is made when the utility and necessity of action is past. The Governor of Cinaloa, however, proceeds to the execution of the order. The garrison is to be independent of the Padres, and of the commanding officer at Loretto, and subject only to orders from the Viceroy. The son of the venerable Captain Don Estevan lloderiguez Lorenzo is appointed to the command of the new post. He is a native of California, and having been brought up by his father under the care of the missionaries, and being pious, brave, prudent, and well acquainted with the coun- try, is admirably qualified to fill the office. He has thirty sol- diers under his command, ten of whom he stations at the new camp of San Josef del Cabo, ten at the mission of La Paz, and ten at that of San Jago do los Coras. The young Captain, how- ever, is noc thouglit to act with sufficient indifference to the ad- vice and opinions of the Padres; and is therefore si 'n dis- placed by a new man from Mexico, Don Pedro Alvarez de Acevedo. At the same time the Viceroy orders an accession of five soldiers to the garrison of Loretto, and particularly directs that the whole force shall be independent of the missionaries. They shall act as an escort, indued, during their journeyings but while so doing, shall be under the command of their officer 254 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. and in nowise amenable to the Padres for neglect or disoV-di- encc ; nor shall their entrance, discharge, oi payment be lu any vay supervised by them. The disorder and iuconvenience growing out of this regula- tion, very soon became apparent. The missions are frecpently forsaken by the guards, the Padres have much difficulty in pro- curing them as escorts in their visits to their parishioners; the Indians are frequently oppressed by them when distant from their captain ; and a system of trading and chaffering commences between the soldiers and Indians, which dissipates much that the Padres have labored to establish, and seriously neutralizes their instructions and counsels. So much evil, however, grows out of this new order of things, that at the end of eighteen months the Viceroy abandons it; puts the new garrison under a lieutenant, subject to the captain at Loretto, and makes these officers subordinate to the Padres. As soon as affairs are thus established on a firm footing, the Society of Jesus appoints new missionaries to gather the dis- persed members of the ruined missions. Meantime his Majesty, continuing to receive advices of the condition of California both from the Viceroy and the Society, is induced not only to order a new garrison, but to direct that the loss occasioned by the re- bellion shall be repaired from the Royal treasury ; and also, that the Council of the Indies shall lay before him the best plan for effectually reducing the Californias. Such means are deliberated upon, a plan for the accomplishment of these ends proposed, and orders for its execution signed by his Majesty sent to the Vice- roy on the thirteenth of November,. 1744. He is directed to proceed in the execution of them without lelay, and also to send further information. The reply to these dispatches reaches Madrid after the death of Philip V. and the accessiou of Ferdinand VI. His Majesty is even more ardent than his predecessor ; and, upon the informa- tion sent him, issues a more particular and full set of instruc- tioua than any that have preceded them. He decrees that near all the safe harbors settlements shall be formed and garrisons c. ^glcct or (lisolv'di. payment be iu any it of this rcgula- ions are frecpently h difficulty in pro- ■ parishioners; the when distant from iiffuring commences isipates much that jriously neutralizes vil, however, grows le end of eighteen new garrison under to, and makes these a firm footing, the I to gather the dis- santimc his Majesty, a of California both 1 not only to order ccasioned by the re- sury ; and also, that lim the best plan for aeans are deliberated B ends proposed, and sty sent to the Vice- He is directed to jlay, and also to send adrid after the death A VI. His Majesty ud, upon the iuforma- id full set of instruc- He decrees that near !'ormed and garrisons T K A V K I, S IN THE C A L I F O R N I A 8 . S57 ^ W:\\ .■v«*y « It'/ Mtablished ; tlint tliorc shall also bo a garrison and town in tlic Cfiitro of tlic peninsula, or ns nonr it ns may he practioabli' ; tliat faciiitii'H simil Ix? aftorcK'd for ostublisliing missions at tlio north, in order to cut otl" intorcourso between the Caiit'ornian Iiidiiuis and tliosc of contiguous nations ; that in each inissiim there shall bo two Padres instead of one, aa heretofore ; that in uU the frontier stations there shall bo a guard under the cnin- niand of the missionaries; that the expense of carrying all these orders into execution shall bo defrayed from the Royal trea- sury ; and finally, that the missionaries in California shall bu allowed the same salaries as are paid to their order elsewhere. These measures give groat satisfaction in Mexico and California. The hearts of the good Padres are cheered by the assuranco thus afforded them, that they have in their monarch an earnest friend, who has come forward in his strength to their aid. They now proceed on their pilgrimage of holy labors, with hearts full of grateful praise to Him whom thoy serve. With renewed energy and a patience and self-denial worthy of all praise, they move onward in the great work they have commenced. No difficulties can daunt — no obstacles shake their fortitude. They seem to rise above the selfish pas- sions of humau nature and fix their hearts and their cyca solely on the glory of God and the advancement of his cause among these benighted Indians. In the following year a statement of the number and condition of the missions was drawn up by the Padres for the information of their sovereign. From this it appears that at that time they contained about twenty-five thousand converts, living com- fortably under the paternal government of the Jesuit Padres. Padres Salva Tieriu, Kino and Ugarte are dead ; but the good deeds which they have done, like the grass and the flowers on their graves, grow greenly, bud and blossom, and shed on the desertt, of the Californian peninsula, a perpetual harvest of tem- poral and religious joy. The handicrafts which they have taught 257 2r.8 »r E N R s IN T II F. r A (• I r I r, tlicm ; tlin Roirnro of nfrrinilturo wliicli tlicy li ivo pivon tliom; the nnimals wliidi they Imve reared around tluir (iwi'llin(.'.>i; tlio great idea of a God ; and the awards which He has woven iA- Hi'paraMy with tiic elenionta of life, mind, and every eondition of being; the diseoinfort, debasement, and misery of vice; tlio i|uietncHB, elevation, and happiness of virtue; all these, the Padres have scattered — seeds, bearing the fruits of the social and religious relations, and the numberless comforts of the civilized state. These integral laws of immortal rationality, have germi- nated among the wastes of man, under the kind planting of tho Padres, on the Californian Peninsula. A mighty deed of moral suasion I Not by tho steel of con(jue8t, which drinks tho blood of tho weak, and opens tho red pathway to physical supremacy ; slaying body and mind ; enslaving and murdering. This con- (|ue8t of tho I'adrea is a victory of Love. Instead of the torpedo, they plant the rose of Sharon ; instead of tho starless night of bondage, they bring the full day of knowledge — filled with the industry, trust, faith, hope and energies, of a ripened freedom. Who can contemplate these Missionaries, enduring tho liardships which have been partially related on these pages, and not vene- rate their memory ? They have voluntarily come from the shrines of early remembrances, and torn from the heart its young and tender impulses. They have left on the cold fields of the past, every tie of kindred, and tho natural hopes of humanity. They have taken the vows of God on their souls ; separated their hands and thoughts from every selfish service ; nnd with bosoms bared to every shaft of possible events, entered tho abodes of savoges, shielded only by .their good deeds and holy purposes ! They have conquered Lower California. It has be- come a part of the domain of the Spanish crown. From 1745 to 1767, the Jesuit Padres continue their labors at these missions. The Spanish government, meanwhile, give tliem small relief from the famines occasioned by the failure of their crops. They mainly depend upon the products of the mis- sion plantations, and the rude manufactures of tho Indian arti- zans, for every comfort of life. And not only do they sustain F I'i f.( of hu sla Vol the con oft thn pro ino,« froii \\ the Woill ihe \ betM a In an tile pen ofl h(;i 170 r sine wou mot cd va^< aud fr or c. TRAVKLS IN T H K r A I. I F n K N I A ^< . 259 live given thorn; ir (iwi'llinjiH ; the lie has wovon iA- l every mnJition scry of vice; tho d; all thoHC, tho g of the Hocial nnd tg of tho civilized lality, have germi- ,d planting of tho ;hty deed of moral h drinks tho blood lysical supremacy ; Icring. This con- tcad of the torpedo, ,0 starless night of Ige— filled with the a ripened freedom, uring the hardships ,ages, and not vene- ily come from the I the heart its young he cold fields of tho hopes of humanity, sir souls; separated h service ; nnd with events, entered tho good deeds and holy alifornia. It has be- irown. continue their labors ncnt, meanwhile, give ued by the failure of e products of the mis- •es of tho Indian arti- only do they sustain thomsolvos, hut every year brinpi in tlie .sliips from the IMiilip- piiie Islan. per Califdiiiia— Arrival at Lorctto— Expedition by sea and land to tlia North— Arrival at San Diego— Ceremonies of Founding a Mission— A Battle— Going Northward- Naming the Bay of San Francisco— Keturn to San Diego— The Resolution of Padre Junipero— An Arrival— De- parture for Monterey— Founding a Mission, &c.— Arrival of thirty Monks— Olher Missions Established— Padro Junipero goes to Merino —Great Scarcity of Food— Padro Junipero returns by Sea— A Land Party from Mexico— Exploration to 66° N.— A Diabolical Plot at San Diego— A Dreadful Battle at Nightr-Death- Mission Destroyed— San Juan Capistrano— Mission and Presidio of San Francisco Founded— Death of Padru Junipero— Number of Missions in Upper California- Dates of their Establishment— Progress, Wealth and Influence of Mis- sions-Mexican Revolution— General Echeandra arrives in California —Measures taken to Destroy tho Missions— A Revolution— Califorrda Independent^Declaration of Rights— Alvarado and Villcjo— Jose Castro— Don Carlos Antonio Carrello— Domestic War among Califor- nian Freemen— Operations of tho Grand Armies of the North and South— A Victory of Noses— Return of Upper California to the Mexi- can Dominion. As related in my account of Lower California, the Jesuits, who have brought the Indians of the territory into subjection to Spain, and induced them to embrace the Catholic faith, have, in 17G7, been expelled from these scenes of their usefulness. And now, that the influence of this powerful society is prostrated, the Government turns its attention to the conquest of the country by the employment of another religious order, who are supposed to be more subse.'ient to the dictates of the civil authority. In 1768, Padre Junipero Sorra, a Franciscan monk, is ap- 2r,2 P'^ENES IN THE PACIFIC. pointed Missionary President of the Californias, and arrives at San Bias in the month of February of tliis year, accompanied by a staff of sixteen brotliers of liis own order, from the Con- vent of San Fernando. Here lie meets sixteen of the expul!r"1 Jesuits, in sorrow that their forsaken flocks must return to the misery of the savage state. These men have labored long to plant the tree of life in the rude soil of the savage heart ; it has begun to put forth its branches to the sun, and slied its odors over the land ; but while the fruits of their trials are being gar- nered, they have been compelled to retire from the harvest, and leave others to reap or despoil. On the twelfth of March, 17G8, Padre Juniporo and his a.sso- ciates sail for Loretto in the same vessel which has brought Jesuits thence, and arrive there in safety about the middle cf the following nionth. Padre Junipero is a worthy Bucees- Bor of those great and self-denying men who have preceded him in this field of martyrdom. His own peculiar faith in religious things is warm and far-reaching. He sees *on the barren heiglits of the Californian peninsula, many a dwelling- place of righteousness for future generations; and hears in the solemn midnight, the voices of angels encouraging him to his work. The miracles wrought in the days of the primitive church, he believes may still be wrought by the saints militant ; and that the mighty arm of faith will yet bring down Oiiiuipo- teuce, to mould anew the distorted world. He unites with his zeal various and extensive learning. The ancient and modern languages, with all their stores of philosophy and eloquence, are known to him. The life of courts — the sweets of the social ties — the vast and stirring acts of the world moving on to its civil and religious destinies, are familiar to him, for he has mingled with them, directed and enjoyed thorn. Yet Padre Junipero has landed in the wilderness of California, and begins the duties of a missiouary among its Indians. He dispatches his brethren to the several missions north and south, and remains at Loretto awaiting the arrival of 1 ad bJ cl if ;, and arrives at ear, accompanU;*! , from tiie Coii- ._ of the expoP.o<^ ust return to the labored long to age heart ; it has uid slied its odors ials are being gar- n the harvest, and ipero and his asso- ivhich has brought about the middle a worthy sncees- who have preceded n peculiar faith in He sees "on the la, many a dwcUing- ,8 ; and hears in the ouraging him to liis ys of the primitive , the saints militant ; bring down Oumipo- Id. He unites with The ancient and 3 of philosophy and jf courts— the sweets g acts of the world stinies, are familiar to directed and enjoyed ed in the wilderne.ss t missionary among its several missions north waiting the arrival of TRAVELS IN THE CALIF OR MAS, 263 Josef Galvoz, the Visitador General, whose commands arc to guide him in his labors. This dignitary arrives at La Paz in July, with orders from his superiors to visit the missions in Lower California, to superintend expeditions about to be dis- patched to San Diego and Monterey in the upper province, for tlie establisliment of missions and forts. Soon the three packet boats of this undertaking arrive. They are called the San Bias, San Carlos and San Antonio. In them are provisions, agri- cultural implements, and seeds of Spanish and M<'xican grains, fruits and esculent roots, to be planted at the contemplated es- tablishments. They will need cattle, horses and mules. A party tliereforc is organized to drive these over the country to Monterey. The San Carlos is ready for sea, and the Visitador General fixes the day for lier departure. In this vessel is Don Vincent Vital, Commander, Don Pedro Prat, Lieutenant, twenty-five Catalonian volunteers, a good ship's crew, and Padre Fernando Parron. Death has visited the Spanish vessels in these seas ever since Cortez' iron prow ruffled them. In all the north the freezing hand of the Great Destroyer is seen ! No living men on board the San Carlos dare unfurl the canvass till heaven is appeased. The red cross is therefore raised to the peak, the orange flag of Spain floats beneath it; and the crew and the soldiers and officers, and priests with shaven crowns, are gathered on the deck ; the holy sacrament is administered by Padre Junipero ; and Mass is said to San Joself, the chosen patron of these ex- peditious ; the vessel and colors are blessed ; an absolution and benediction administered to the people ; and the vessel San Carlos leaves the harbor of Lorctto on the ninth of Jamiary, 17G9, on her voyage to Upper California. The San Antonio Bails from Ca.pc San Lucas on the fifteenth of the following mouth. Her commander is Don Juan Perez. Sliehas on board Padres Juan Biscayno and Francisco Gomez, and her crew. The San Josef leaves Loretto on the sixteenth of June of the Bame year. Meanwhile the land expedition is being forwarded with all 264 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. posfliblo dispatch. It is divided into two companies ; so that \l one of them nhall be destroyed, the other may chance to bo saved. Don Gasper de Portala is the commissioned Oovcrnor of the Galifornias and commander of this land expedition. He is a captain of dragoons in the Spanish army. Captain Fer- nando Rivera y Moncada is his second. The latter receives command of the first division of the landsmen ; and in the mouth of September, 17G8, takes up his line of march for the north. Ho soon arrives at a place now called Nuestra Senora de loi] Angelos, on the Indian frontier, and having found some supplies and baggage, sent in launches from the missions to this placo, he proceeds eighteen leagues northward, to a valley of excellent pastures, wood and water, and halts. Here he remains until the first day of March, 17G9, and again marches northward, until the twenty-fourth of the same month, when he arrives at the port of San Diego, in latitude 32" N. Here he finds the S;in Carlos and San Antonio at anchor. These vessels have suffered greatly from storms and contrary winds. The first arrived on the first of May, 1 768. Her whole people, except the officers, cook, and one seaman, have died of the scurvy and thirst and hunger. The San Antonio arrived on the eleventh of April, having lost eight of her crew by the scurvy. The San Josef was not seen after she left Loretto. Don Rivera y Moncada, his twenty-five soldiers, his three muleteers and his converted Indians, Padre Crispi and a midshipman, now form a camp upon the green plain, and rest from the fatigues of a march of fifty-four days, over the dry crags of the Californian wilder- ness. The second part of the land expedition, with its mules, horses, black cattle, muleteers and baggage, on the thirteenth of May, 17G9, are at a place called Villacata; and Padre Junipcro and the Governor are with them. They are waiting the arrival of the troops ; and while thus unemployed, examine the surround- ing country — find it valuable, and consecrate it to the use of the mission in the neighborhood called San Francisco de Borja* and hither this mission is to be removed. The ceremony of I k f t d tl tl fr ni J G C di tb sL th bu in ca tl Iiies ; so tliat \i ly chance to bo lioned Governor [xpedition. He Captain Fer- lattcr receives Ind in the mouth for the north. Senora de lo9 lid some supplies nns to this phicc, illey of excellent le remains until northward, until he arrives at the he finds the San isels have suffered he first arrived on Kcept the officers, vy and thirst and eleventh of April, '. The San Josef livera y Moncada, and his converted HOW form a camp itigues of a march Californian wilder- h its mules, horses, thirteenth of May, •adre Junipero and ting the arrival of mine the surround- it to the use of tho ■aucisco de Borja* The ceremony of TRAVELS IN THE CALI70RNIAS. 263 consecrating the location of this mission is worthy of being known. The soldiers and muleteers clear away the rubbish from the future site of the church — hang seven bells upon tlie trees, and form a grand cross. Tui^ is tho work of the first day. On the second. Padre Junipero, invested in robes, blesses the holy water, and with it sprinkles the site of the church and the cross. The latter, adorned with flowers, is then erected in front of the consecrated area. This mission then receives its name, San Josef. The first Mass is now chanted — and Pndre Junipero pronounces a di-scourse upon the coming of the Holy Ghost. Tiie sacrifice of tho Mass is now concluded, and Voiii Creator is sung. In the progress of all tliis there is a coiistiiut discharge of musketry. The smoke of the burning powder is the only inoense from the mountain altars of tliis day's wor- fihip. They leave Vellacata on the 15th of May, 1769, and direct their course northwardly towards the mouth of the Colorado ; but after traveling above thirty-five leagues, tlieir progress is intercepted by a steep and rocky mountain, over whicli tlieir cattle cannot pass. Thoy therefore return southward as far as the frontier mission, San Borja. Having rested themselves and their animals a few days, they take a route in a north-westerly direction. Forty-six days do they travel. The southern half of their way passes through a sterile rocky country with occa- sional fruitful valleys skirted with timber. The nortlicrn iialf is plentifully supplied with streams of water running among rich savannas clothed with the wild grasses, roses, and vines bearing a large sour gr.ipe. The timber is not abundant — but on the hihs the deep loamy soil frequently produces the live oak and other valuable trees, and the vales which run up from tlie .seaside, are often clad with heavy forests. Many Indians meet them. The males, both old and young, are entirely naked, while the females of all ages are covered with rush mats bud skins from their breasts downward. Their food consists of seeds, fruits, and fish. They are uniformly familiar and friend< ly. On the first day of July they pitch their camp ou the 260 SCENES IN THE rACIFIC. the beaoh among their countrymen, at the long-sought port of San Picgo. As the crews of the vessels have been thinned by death, till thoro lire i.carcely enough to man one of thcni, they cannot pro- ceed farther north without recruits. Accordingly the remaining members of both crews are put on board the Sun Antonio, and the ship dispatched to San Bias for more seamen. It is also determined that the Governor shall lead the principal part of the landsmen along the shore to Monterey. The Padre's Presi- dent and two missionaries and eight soldiers are therefore de- tached to remain at the newly consecrated mission of San Difgo ; and Don Gasper Portala, the Governor, with one ser- vant, the Padres Juan Crispi and Francisco Gomez, with each a converted Indian to attend on him, and Don Fernando Rivera y IMoneada with his sergeant and twenty-six soldiers, and his lieutenant Don Pedro Foxes, with seven Oatalonian soldiers, and Don Miguel Constanzo, engineer, and seven mule- teers and fifteen Indians from the southern missions, start over land to Monterey. Tiiey search the coast for bays and harbors, examine the lands and their products, pass the harbor of Monterey without recognizing it, go north to the Bay now called San Francisco, and give it that name under the following circumstances : — When the Padre President, Junipero, received orders from the Visitador General respecting the names of the new missions which he was sent northward to fouTid, perceiving that the name of the Patron Saint of hi? order of priests was not among them, said, " And is our Father San Francisco to have no mission as- signed to him ?" To which the Visitador replied, " If San Francisco wishes to have a mission, let him show you a good port, and then it shall bear his name." When the Monterey expedition, therefore, see this unequalled bay, they exclaim, " This is the port to which the Visitador referred, and to which the Saint has led us," and immediately called the bay Bajia del San Francisco. They now erect a cross on the western shore I c 1 t (] t ( 1 tl w cl f( w t t sought port oi J by death, till loy cannot pro- thc remaining in Antonio, and icn. It ia also rincipal part of Padre's Presi- TO therefore de- mission of Saa with one ser- with each Ion Fernando ..^■-six soldiers, jeven Oataloniaa and seven mule- ssions, start over or roniez, Do nty- ,ors, examine the Monterey without ed San Francisco, circumstances :— 2d orders from the the new missions ring that the name s not among them, liave no mission as- replied, "If San II show you a good yhen the Monterey bay, they exclaim, erred, and to which d the bay Bajia del L the western shore TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS 2G7 of the southern great arm of this bay, and haying taken pos- session of the country in the name of their sovereign, celebrate the Mass, comn.ence their return to S.n Diego, and arrive there on the twenty-fourth of January, 1770. „ „, During the half year occupied by this expedition, the Padre President Junipero is not idle at Sau Diego. Ou the sixteenth day of July, 1769, he consecrates the foundation of a mission. This is the day of the year, when in 121'2, the Span.ar,ls, under the banner of the cross, prostrated the power of the Mahome- dans in the south of Spain ; and the good Padre Junipero hopes that the same banner shall yet wave over tlie (Jent.les o Upper California. He chants the Mass, celebrates the triumph of the Holy Ooss. sprinkles the ground with the baptismal water of the Church, and calls it San Diego, or Saint James. After- wards he dedicates one of their huts to the use of a temporary church, and invites the Indians to attend service ; presents them food which they reject ; gives them small pieces o cloth with which they are greatly delighted ; yet they cannot be persuaded To bow beLetlfe cross, and gladden the Padre's heart by en. bracing the Catholic faith; but on the contrary, they allow their desire for cloth to induce them in the night time to go on l.r.e rafts built of bulrushes to the ship San Carlos, and pur- loin a part of her sails. This act is followed by precautious o pvevent its repetition; yet as no pnnishment is inflicted on thieves, they arm themselves with bows and arrows, wo dc Bwords of keen edge, and formidable clubs, and begm to teal BO boldly that the Spaniards find it necessary to oppose them by force ; and as soon as their determination to do so is mani- fested, the Indians resolve to accomplish thefr designs by war. O , tie thirteenth and fourteenth days of August, therefore, they, oree their way into the quarters of the people and carry otl '"ral garments and other valuables; but are driven away :i out n attempt to kill any of them. On the fit ecn 1. . ^cornea necessary for Padre Fernando to go on bo-^ t' ^^b. Carlos to celebrate the Mass with two soldiers who guard th« 268 SCENES IN THE PACIFTO. Bliip. Padres Jnnipero and Biscayno are loft on shore with only two other persons able to do duty; and the Indians, per- ceiving the advantage to be derived from the absence of one of the boldest of those they would rob, gather in lurge numbers while the people are at Mass, and begin to carry away every thing they find, even the sheets that cover the siek I The cor- poral calls " to arms 1" whereupon the Indians retire a short distance and shoot their arrows. And now the four soldiers, the carpenter and blacksmith commence firing their guns. The latter, although he had no armor to protect him from the arrows, charges upon the savages, crying out, " Long live the faith of Jei«us Christ, and die the dogs his enemies t" Meantime the Padre President Junipero is praying that none may be hurried to the world of spirits with their sins unfor- given. The battle rages on, accompanied by the terrible war-cry of the savages. An arrow takes effect ; a boy called Josef runs in great haste and prostrates himself at the Padre's feet, ex- claiming, " Father, give me absolution, for the Indians have killed me." The Vadre absolves him. The arrow has passed through his throat; and he immediately dies! His death is kept secret and the battle continues. Many of the savages fall. They drag away their dead and dying, till at length, panio- smitten by the destructive effects of fire-arms, they flee to the hills in great precipitation ! It cannot be known how many of these savages have perished by this mad act. Very many are known to be wounded ; for in a few days their friends bring them into the mission and entreat the Padres to cure them : and the surgeon and the Padres treat them kindly till restored to health. Padre Biscayno, one sc'Jier, an Indian Christian, and the brave blacksmith arc wounded ; but in a short time all the whites, except the poor boy Josef, are well again. This un- successful attack has a salutary effect on the Indians. They oome fearfully into the mission every day, and treat the Padres and the religion they teach with deference. A boy about r 1 t e t ♦ J k if oi t TRAVELS IN THB CALIFOttNIAS. '269 on shore with e Indians, per- aence of one of I large numbers ry away every lick ! The cor- 8 retire a short le four soldiers, leir guns. The "rom the arrows, live the faith of raying that none their sins unfor- ^ rriblo war-cry of ■ailed Josef runs Padre's feet, ex- thc Indians have arrow has passed ;8! His death is )f the savages fall, at length, panio- 18, they flee to the iges have perished )e wounded; for in nission and entreat id the Padres treat Christian, and the short time all the II again. This un- the Indians. They ui treat the Padres ice. A boy about fifteen years old is among the roost frequent and devout. Him the Piulro Prosident tenches the Spanish language, m order that he may learn the prayers and catcchis.n, and act as n.tcr- preter. Ho learns easily, and is soon able to u.lorm h.s .an- Lmen that the Padre desires to baptize the.r eh. dren, and iu'truet them in the Catholic faith. One is selected Irom the „>any which are olVored, and the holy water .s about to fa from the Padre's hand, when the parents of the child snatch it away to the great grief of the Padre and the indignation of the soldiers. The latter in their zeal ask permission to de- 8troy these blaspheming gentiles. The good Junipero denies ♦ "iMstress follows these Franciscans as it has the Jesuits. The country is unploughed and yields little food The San Antonio has gone to San Bias for supplies ; but heaven only know^ if the storms will spare her to save them from starvation. She has already been absent so long that they begin to fear she ia lost The Governor, therefore, orders an account to be taken of the provisions on hand, and notifies the Padre President that they can hold out no longer than March following; and that if the ship should not arrive by San JosePs day, the twenty-fifth of that month, he shall abandon the enterprise, and commence his return to Loretto. This announcement greatly afflicts the Padre Junipero. Leaving the country he feels will carry with it for a long time to come, the abandonment of the Indians to their heathenism; and he retires to his closet and implores aid from Heaven. God is his master ; from Him he seeks light. San Josef is the Patron ^aint of bs holy en er- prise- from him he seeks celestial intercessions with the Ruler of events. The conversion of the Gentiles is the work which burdens his heart; and he holds the cross toward Heaven and vows never to leave California till he has thrust the spiritual plough into the glebe of its moral wastes. He communicates his resolution to the Governor, and waits the approach of the eventful day with the greatest solicitude. The twentyfifth of March at last comes. The Padre greets 273 SPKNES IN THE PAriPIC. its dawning liji;ht with tbo chants of tho Mass, and the cnlebro- tion of tho most sacred Hcrviees of the eliurch. Tho poo'ile are called to;;etii(T at mid-day, and prayers arc most devoutly said and praises a^'ain Huiig to the Creator. The good Padre speajjs. He draws an exhortation from the Laws uf (jiod. lie cxiiorts as one soon to be left alone in u land of martyrdom. He ceases ; ho blesses ; and the tide of thought and eniotion is now setting upon tho busy movements of the de]iarture for Loretto, when lo ! in the offing is perceived the outline of a vessel standing towards the land! Was it an omen 1 shadowed on the rim of the sky to arouse faith in God ? It disappears during the night ! The sun rises and sets over the hot seas three times afterwards, and it does not re-appear I The fourth day dawns and waxes to the meridian, and wanes on the western waves I And when night shuts in, the cable of the San Antonio rattles its rude salutation to the silent shores around the Uay of San Diego ! On the arrival of this ship with provisions and a recruit of men, it is determined to make another expedition to Monterey. A party by land and another by sea, are detailed for the under- taking. Both leave San Diego about the middle of April, 1770. Long and tedious are the voyages of these infant days of navigation. Forty-six days are spent by the San Antonio in making 4" of latitude. On the thirty-first of May, however, Padre Junipcro with joy beholds from the ship the green hills around the bay of Monterey. Tho anchor is let into the waters, the boats are lowered, they shoot away to the shore ; the land expedition having arrived eight days before, meet their country- men on the rocks at the beach. The first and second of June are spent in that hearty social intercourse, which those alone ever feel who have thrown tlu.'ir hearts for months on the cold breast of the wilderness. Dangers incurred, sufferings endured on rock and surge, remembrances of the sacred past, the sensations cf dawning joy crowding on past misery like day on the heels of night, cluster around the mind and bid the affections increase tho B t: b ( fi \ J is St ni b: ai SI tl in fii ot ci a o d o ^.JSm TRAVELS IN THK PAl, IPORNIAS •271 and the cclcb:a- The peonle are ist devoutly said irtation from the 10 left iiloiio in a and tlic tide of busy inoveuienta ffing is perceived lid! Was it an iBC faith in God? es and sets over )cs not re-nppcar 1 an, and wanes on , the cable of the the silent shores ? and a recruit of ition to Monterey, ilcd for the under- middle of April, sc infant days of he San Antonio ia of May, however, ihip the green hills let into the waters, ;he shore ; the land meet their country- and second of June lich those alone ever H on the cold breast iigs endured on rock t, the sensations cf day on tne heels of ffections increase tha pulsations of life. On the third of Juno, thoy cclobrato their lanling. It is the IVntccost day. The olVurrs and men of tho sea and land expeditions assemble under a great oak tree near tlie shore. They erect an altar in its shade, hang bells on its branches, and proceed with their servicTS. Tlicy chant |V//i Crvnior, consecrate the water, erect and bless a grand cross, un- furl tho royal standard, chant the Mass, and sing a Salve to tho Virgin, wh.-se image occupies the altar. And after the I'adro Junipero has delivered a pathetic discourse, a solemn Tc Dcum is >.ung to the Great Creator. The officers now take formal pos- session of the country in tho name of their king. These cere- monies being completed, they repair to a shady place on tho beach and dine, as they have worshiiipcd, amid salutes of small arms, and the cannon of tho vessels. Thus is commenced tho settlement of Monterey, in Upper California. All this done, the Padre President proceeds to found the mission of Monterey, ill the same manner as lie has done that at San Diego. Hut he finds it more difficult to induce the Indians to avail themselves of his teachings. The firing of the artillery an.l muskets at the celebration of the first Mass, has so terrified them, that the heart of the excellent Padre is not gladdened by a baptism, till the twenty-sixth of the following December. Meanwhile the ship San Antonio being detained some time at Monterey, the Padre President is enabled to explore portions of the neighboring country. He finds the fertile soil so abun- dant and the natives so numerous, that he writes to the chief of the College of San Fernando in Mexico, that a hundred more missionaries may be well employed in the Californias. This favorable account of the country induces the Viceroy at Mexico to order thirty Franciscan monks to proceed to Sau Ulas— twenty of whom are destined for Lower and ten for Upper California. The latter sail from San Bias in the Saa Antonio, on the seventh of January, 1771, and on the twelfth of March, put into San Diego, sorely afflicted with the scurvy. They go overland to Monterey. The monks destined for Lower California are less fortunate, 179 ■ CBNRM IN TIIF. PA (; trio. Tlicir ship, tlio Han ('arid*, in allowed by its unworthy oom* maiidor to drift oHliore, in tlio Port Mansanillo, a fine harbor ^'ing gomo dintanou Bouth from San IMaH; and tho poor friarn, j«(ft to shift for tlu!inHclvi'M, ard oonipcllcd to foil ovit tlinuj Imn- irt'd leaguoH of rough, pathlcHR, uninhabited eoast along tlio 4cean and gulf, till they (intl theniNelvet* on tho uoaHt of Hcnorii opposite to Loretto. They oroBH tho gulf to Lorotto, thither the San OarloH follows them in the month of AuguHt, having hreu eight montliH at sea, between two ports whieh are now but five or Mix days' sail apart. The reinforcement to Upper California enables the proHid- ing I'adru to found a new nuH.sion, which lie dedicatcii to San Antonio de Padua. This station is built among the green hills of Hanta Lucia, about eight leagues from the Pacific coast, and twenty from Monterey. The grounds are broken and tho seed sown ; but a blighting and untimely frost comes, and tho total loss of the wheat is threatened. The Indians arc disheartened, and Btill mjro so tho Padres, who anticipate with keen forebo- dings the loss of their bread. They send the Christiau In- dians to the woods to gather needs, roots, fruits, &e., for their subsistence, as in former times has been their custom. The Padres streugtheu their own and the Indians' &ith, by a firm reliance on their patron saint ; and to conciliate his high- est favor, they resolve to celebrate his Novena with all their converts. At tho same time they take tho more business-like precaution of irrigating tho blighted field ; and in a few days, such is the eflBcacy of tlio water, and still more, as they believe, their prayers, that tho resuscitated grain field is seen springing into new life. At the end of tho Novena, the whole field is covered with beauty and promise, and at harvest yields more abundantly than was ever before known. This encourages the new converts, and kindles the gratitude of tue Padres. Meanwhile new oflForts are resolved on in San Diego; and on tho tenth of August, Padre Pedro Ganibon and Padre Angel Somera, with a detachment if ten soldiers and the re- r j Wll hk fW( fill Th ara cee Sai unworthy oom* lo, a fine hnrhor tlio poor friiirH, ovtT tlin* hun- coiiBt nliiiij( tlio fouHt of Hi'iiorn Ijofctto, thither AugUMt, having hich are now but iiMi's the prcflid- di'tiicatcs to Sail iinong the green the Pacific coast, ■own ; but a lie total losH of iliaheartencil, and *ith keen forebo- the ChriHtittU In- fruits, &c., for ecu their euHtoui. idians' faith, Dy a !onciliato his high- ena with all their more business-like I; and in a few still more, as they grain field is seen Noyena, the whole B, and at harvest fore known. Tliis he gratitude of tue d on iu San Diego ; 5ambon and Padr« jldicra and the re- r T R A V K I. « IN THE C A t, I f O n N I A « •273 qm^itp nuinlMT of miilM and .Irivm. «.t out and tra\rl norih- witrdly. Wli.Mi tlicy ariivf iit the liv.-r Tonil.lons, iil.out forty Um«u.'.s from San l)..•^ro, and while thry are serkii.i,' a desira- blc site tor their mission, the Indians, arin.d and led on by two commanders, rush from their lurkiiiK'-pl"^'''" with .Iread- ful yells and the most un^iuivotal demonstrations of hostility. The Padres dread l)loo of th of g' he n: ar m in re th tb is -L ACI PI (lineonhervoyage loiant, helpless de- famine. For eight a scanty supply of and kind hearts arc indefatigable Padre 1773, when, with supply of necessa* nd clothing, to the for California. He cpcdition, under the through the interior that the disasters 1 the missions with in future be averted Bias, and freighting rigate Santiago with nuary of 1774, and n Diego. 1 ; and Padre Juni- nay visit the various dition is there : and no obstacle to a land Monterey. B\it the jatly lessened by the IS among the people, lergies and hopes of 's heart is wrung by with a few supplies ; th of May, that the s in advance of him, r and welcome every- Friars hail him as a he poor Indians as a i and encouraged, the f TRAVELP IN THE CALIK0RNIA8. 270 laborers of the cross toil on. Meantime the frigate, which is under orders from the Viceroy to explore the northwest coast, departs from Monterey on the eleventh of June, proceeds aa far as Lat. 55'^ N.. and finds an inlet which they name Santa Margarita, and returns. Ii March of the next year, she raakea Another expedition, accompanied by a schooner under the comnLand of Bodega, afterwards the friend of Vancouver. As these vessels, however, are separated in a gale on the tiiirtieth of July, the frigate proceeds to Lat. 49^ N., and puts back in search of the lost schooner ; arriving at Monterey on the twentieth of August, she finds her consort riding at anchor in the bay. The failure of these ex- peditions seems rather to stimul?.te than cool the enterprise of the Viceroy. He orders a new frigate to be built at San Bias, and sends a naval officer to Peru to purchase a vessel to ac company her over these vexed waters. These vessels sail from San Bias on the twelfth of February, 1779, under com- mand of Don Ignatio Artiago. Two missionaries from the Convent of San Fernando accompany the expedition. The object of the voyage is to discover a water passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic. They reach Lat. 55^ N. on the third of June, and discover a "trait which they call Bucareli. Here they look in vain for a passage eastward ; and about the first of July proceed still farther northward. On the first of Au- gust, in about Lat. 60=" N., they discover a large and safe harbor, with abundance of wood, water, and fish. This they name Santiago ; and after spending several days in searching an inconsiderable creek for the passage, the prudent com- mander, finding his crew infected with the scurvy to an alarm- ing degree, and dreading the rigor of the advancing season, resolves to return. Accordingly he sails southward, and on th- fifteenth of September, 1779, safely moors his little fleet in the harbor oi San Fernando. The return of this expedition is hailed as a momentous event in the progress of the conquest. While the civil arm is thus extending itself over the unex plored wilderness, the spiritual warriors lose none of their -I 279 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. ardor The accession of laborers and the abundant supplies brought by the Padre President enable the missionaries to prosecute their holy enterprise with renewed energy. New mission!, jre founded, the old ones zealously advanced. Con* verts are added to the flock, and everything encourages the hearts of the lonely self-sacrificing Padres. In the fall of the year, 1775, however, a most diabolical plot is laid and partly executed by the unc^nvcrtc;! Indians aided by two apostates, for attacking S:.n Diego, and murdering the mis- sionaries and other white persons. The onset is made in the dead of night, by two strong bands of armed savages ; and the good Padres, all unprepared for defence as they are, with their feeble force of a few soldiers and mechanics, have but a small chance of escape. One of them, the Padre Luis, is cruelly murdered and chopped in pieces, and Padre Vincente is dangerously wounded. A whole night is spent in this pre- carious defence, and at sunrise the Indians retire, carrying away their dead and wounded. All the whites are wounded, some of their buildings are burned, and their peaceful in- tercourse with the Indians is sadly interrupted. The Padre President at Monterey hears of this calamity, and resolves to proceed at once to San Diego to repair, as he best may, the misfortunes of his brethren. He is prevented from reaching them until June of the following year ; when with the aid of the crew of the Princesa, he re-builds the burned tenements, and by his influence renews the amicable inter- course of the mission with the natives. On his return, he founds the mission of San Juan Capistrano. Here he is at- tacked by hostile Indians. But he escapes all dangers, en- dures all trials, and on reaching Monterey, prepares to establish the mission of San Francisco, on the bay of that name. Great preparations are made for this event. Supplies are sent to the harbor of San Francisco in one of the packet boats, and the good Padre with a small detachment of soldiers, and a number of families with cattle and mules for the new mission, leaves Monterey on the seventeenth of June, 1776. Ten davi r . b. w T pf so pi hi: an un th( inj Nc to JL. IC. ibundant suppliei 5 missionaries to d energy. New advanced. Con« hing encourages Padree. In the bolical plot is laid lians aided by two lurdering the mis- iset is made in the ined savages ; and ; as they are, with echanics, have but the Padre Luis, is ,nd Padre Vincente IS spent in this pre- ns retire, carrying vhites are wounded, their peaceful in- rupted. )f this calamity, and to repair, as he best [e is prevented from y year ; when with re-builds the burned the amicable inter- On his return, he tno. Here he is at- pes all dangers, en- , prepares to establish of that name. Great Supplies are sent to the packet boats, and ent of soldiers, and a s for the new mission, une, 1776. Tendavi r TRAVELS IN THE CAl, IFOKNiAS. 277 nvB, and they arrive near the proposed site of their future hn-ne CD the banks of a beautiful lake near one of the arms o^'the bay, select a situation for the Presidio, and cut the tim- b«r to erect it. The natives, meanwhile, throng around to witness their labors and make demonstrations of friendship. The vessel arrives on the eighteenth of August. The work progresses, and on the seventeenth of September, they take solemn possession of the new garrison. The holy cross is planted above the peaceful waters of the bay, and the silent hills re-echo the chanting of the Mass, the sublime Te Deum and the roar of artillery and musketry, announcing to the untamed tenants of the valderness, the dominion at once of the cross and the sword. The same ceremonies attend the tak- ing possession of the mission on the ninth of the following November. These objects accomplished, the vessel returns to San Bias. The faithful Padre Junipero continues his labors without ceasing, founding in addition to the missions already named, those of Santa Clara, Santa Barbara, and San Buenaventura. But his efforts draw to a close. He has thrown the gushing energies of a warm and kind heart upon the arid wilderness. Solitude, famine, heat and cold, thirst and hunger, have been welcome as the sole conditions under which he could perform his errand of mercy and love to the red man. And now that the holy cross which his hands have planted, gleams heaven- ward from the dark bosom of these wastes, and devotion blends its gentle tones with ti;e harsher poeans of the winds and waves, and the voices of human industry, the good Padre, worn out with the fatigues and anxieties of his arduous post, must prepare to rest from his labors. The hand of age is upon him ; his head whitens ; his frame bends and trembles ; his steps falter ; he leans upon his younger and more vigor- ous brethren for support ; and at last his grateful and beloved spiritual children, the sons of the forest, see him no more He retires to die. His heart clings to those who have so long lived under the protection of his fostering hand, and tlie laa* •i?« B C E N F. 8 IN •r ji E PA c i r I c . r .vn HATES OF THEIR FOUNDATION NAMES OF MISSIONS, AND DATES O* Date of Foundation. 1769, • i:70, 1771, (i 1772, 1776, 1777, 1779, 1782, 1786, 1787, 1791, 1794, 1797, (( u (t 1798, 1817, 1822, Missions. San Diego, [de Monterey. SanCarmelo,or San Carloi San Gabriel. San Antonio tie Padua. San Luis Obispo. San Juan Capistrano. Santa Clara. San Francisco Santa Buenaventura. Santa Barbara. La Purissima Concepcion. NaSade la Soledad. , Santa Cruz. . Snn Miguel. . San Jose. . ,San Juan Bantista. - San Fernando. . San Luis Rey de Franm - San Rafael. . San Francisco Solano. to 1820 sow an immense quanUty o W« a Xaaand British ships '^'f ,,'''!*''2 Tcalifornia .s .» point. Previous to 1793 the f aore of on un' ms th( otl •lis ail frc lo fh la M T P q n ti tl n t i t 1 TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 279 IV. ?ssing!* ^n hi!) m iiis last bredVh and in the year 1782. long ; nl'ty-tnree thirty-five in the the New World. idre Junipero rOUNDATION ions. [de Monterey. Tielo,or SanCarloi )riel. onio de Padua. s Obispo, n Capistrano. lara. incisfo iuenaventura. Barbara. rissima Concepcioa de la Soledad. Cruz. [Iguel. )se. ian Bantista. 'ernando. ,uis Rey de Franc» lafael. i'rancisv'o Solano. ry rich, and from 1793 lies and tallow to Ame- the coast. An aneo- nan in California is in filled the surplus bulb I of their herds, saving the hides, and leaving the tal.ow to rot on the plains; because it was an article difficult to preserve until foreign ships should begin to vl.sit them and furnish a market ; and thus untold quantities of it were lost. One o the Padres, however, who had a little more chemistry and other worldly wisdom than his brethren, caused his Indians to dig a very large and deep vat in the earth on a shaded spot, and line it well with brick and a durable cement, in which from year to year, as his bulls were killed, he stored his tal- low • and thus continued to do, till the trading ships called for the deposit ; when it was found that his vat contained three large cargoes of excellent tallow. The catllt^ in the missions at this period were very numerous. Most of them had from eighty to one hundred thousand each. They also had bands of horses and other kinds of stock pro- portionably large. The Padres of a single mission not untre- quently purchased an entire cargo of goods from American merchants— and such were the known resources of their es. tablishments, and their uniform punctuality and honesty, that these cargoes were frequently delivered to the priests with no ot-her security than their verbal promise to pay. Indeed, these old Franciscan Friars, who ("ntered this wilderness clad in their grey habits with sandals on their feet and the cross in thek hands, were men for whose ecpials in mental power, in physical courage and moral intrepidity, we shall seek in vain in "these days of vapid benevolence, of organizations wbick spend their money in sustaining a system of denunciation, instead of applying it with 283 pacity to build a fire to warm his frame when beset with cold— to the Negro— the Hottentot— the Indian— the Asiatic and the European species, there is a gradual developnitnt of beauty and capacity of body and mind, which forces us to think that the same harmonious variety was introduced into the creation of the human tamily, which is so manifest in other orders of the animal world. Among celestial intelligences, toe, there are greater and lesser stars of existence ; and the Great Ma- kir burns above them all. Such variety is a palpable fact on earth. The highest obedience to God is the recognition of Him in His own character, and of creation as it fell from His hands ; and having done these things dutifully, to place our- selves in the ordained relation to the external world, to other men, to ourselves and to Him. One of the noblest acts in this line of obedience is to say to those who are for wise purposes made inferior to us, be free — be men. And if we had no other sources of information from which to learn the real nature and intent of the course of the Mexican Govern- ment towards these Mission Indians, we should place it among the noblest deeds of men. But unfortunately it deserves equal distinction of an opposite character. Let succeeding events be heard in evidence. These declarations of Echuandra and the banishment of their Prefecto, diminished the Padres' hopes of perfecting what they had so gloriously begun— the rearing the Indian population by degrees to the labors, the thoughts, the religion and happiness of civilisation. They well understood what all men will eventually come to know, that an ignorant, stupid species of the human kind, never was and never can be free before their stupidity and ignorance are removed ; that the introduction of such people as civil agents among a body of citizens of the higher species, who sustain the re- spoi/sibilities of advanced society, is attended with no good to aay party ; but on the contrary, attaches to the acts and thoughts of the higher, advancing and thinking species, the antagonism of the unthinking, the indolent and degrading in- 2K4 BCKNGA N THfc PACIFIC ferior, whose influence can only be to weaken the moral power of their superiors, and draw them off with all the force of physical indulgence to the confines of barbarism. They perceived, indeed, that freedom to their converts, from their paternal restraints, was only an illusive synonyme of annihi- lation ; that they would, when removed from the action of a superior intelligence, return to the savage state, or use their liberty in following their strongest instincts, which, after all their labors, were towards vices alike ruinous to bodily and moral health. The Padres, for nil these causes, became dis- couraged, and made less effort for the temporal enlargement of their missions. The departure of their best neophytes to the lands assigned them by the Government, left them only the refractory and the ignorant to work the lands, guard ne herds and flocks, and manufacture the cloth, leather and wine , and these being encouraged by Erhuandra, nec;]ected then labor, and insulted the Padres when punished for so doing. They even went in bodies to Echuandra and complained that the Padres insisted that they, the fteo citizens of the Mexican Republic, ought to cultivate the raission farms ; and the Gen- eral encouraged them in their folly. They informed him that the Padres withheld their rations, unless they cultivated the land to raise a new supply ; and Echuandra assured them they had reason for dissatisfaction. And on one occasion, when a Padre was insisting on obedience to these wholesome regula- tions by which they had been elevated from the most abject barbarism to the comforts of a partially civilized state, the deluded creatures threw him violently upon the ground, and otherwise abused him. This, Echuandra assured them, was an act worthy of a citizen of the Mexican Republic. While the Padres were thus seeing the mission plantations becoming covered with weeds, the buildings going to ruin, their influence over the converts lessening, and these, their spiritual children, given to drunkenness, gambling, theft, and lasciviousness, a party of young Friars from the Convent of San Fernando, in Mexico, were distributed among some of r c . ktn the moral ith all the force rbarism. They krerts, from their lyme of annihi- the action of a ;ate, or use their which, after all IS to bodily and ises, became dis- ral enlargement est neophytes to , left them only lands, guard ne eather and wine , neglected theii ed for so doing. complained that is of the Mexican IS ; and the Gen- nformed him that ley cultivated the issured them they occasion, when a holesome regula- Q the most abject ivilized state, the 1 the ground, and issured them, was lepublic. nission plantations gs going to ruin, , and these, their imbling, theft, and m the Convent of d among some of TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNIAS, 285 the missions, and the Padres resident commanded to in- Btruct them in the Indian languages and other matters which would prepare them to supplant their teachers. The in- fluence and usefulness of these excellent men was, by these measures, rapidly undermined, till the year 1827, when two of them. Padres Repol and Alteraira, of the mission Santa Barbara, fearing for their personal safety, secretly left the country in an American vessel bound to Boston, and sailed from that city to Spain. In the year 1835, others left with passports from Government, and went through Mexico to Spain ; and others, worn out with labor and sorrow, died in the country and were buried under the churches of their missions. In the same year a body of Franciscan monks from the Col- lege at Zacatecas, were sent into the Californias by the Gov- ernment. To these were assigned the rich missions lying north of San Antonio, The old Padres retained the poorer ones lying to the South. Thither these good old priests retired, banished from the missions they had reared, and deprived of the means of comfort which they had procured ; and now, in those inhospitable places, they continue to perform their spirit- ual functions, deprived in their old age not only of the com- forts, but of the very necessaries of life. Aged men, tottering grey-headed men ; men who had in youth left the abodes of civilized life ; who had forsaken father, mother, kindred, and for forty years toiled in the Californian wilderness ; plough- ed the soil, built churches and dwellings ; brought into life, justice and hope and music and prayer to the God of the Uni- verse ; under whose hands the trees of virtue and civilisa- tion flourished, adorning the hitherto barren wastes of mat- ter and soul ; such were the men condemned by a selfish anarchy to wretchedness and want. But a policy so blind brings evil as its legitimate result. In 1835, the whole power of the priests over the temporal affairs of these establishments, in both the Californias, was transferred to officers of government called Admmistradores. 988 ■ CENE8 IN THE PACiriC. One of these wiis lorntcd at each mission. Their duties osten* •il)ly were to farm them for the benefit of the converts, in order to allow the Padres their whole time for their spiritual hiliors. But the actual olijeit of this measure was to briny the iiicouie ami property of the missions within the grasp of the huiij^ry leaches of the Californian Government. For, immediately after the appointment of these olFicers their wants became pressing;, and they befran to send orders for hides, &c,, to the Adminis- tradores, which were uniformly honored and passed tothecietlit of the missions. Thirty thousand hides and as many arohas of tallow, hml been the annual export of this country ; but now, a sliiuyhter of the animals cotnmenc«'d, which surpassed the annual in- crease ; and the Padres encoura<;ed the dtfrauded Indians at the yearly branding, to let many go unmarked and run wild, in anticipation of the approaching period, when tyranny would drive them J'rom their homes to the wilderness. The ellects of these measures were to decrease the number of cattle and the amount of the products of the missions, paralyze the in- dustry, deteriorate the morals of the whole community, and introduce in the place of the mild and paternal government of the Padres, the oppressive anarchy of a weak and cruel mili- tary despotism ; the more despicable in itself, as it proceeded from a source where liberty and equality was the theory, and slavery and robbery the practice of the governing class. In the year 1836, a quarrel arose between the Mexican Go- vernor at Monterey, and a custom-house officer by the name of Juan Baptiste Alvarado, inregardto the division of certain bribes ■which had been paid to the officers by the supercargo of a for- eign ship, as a remuneration for entering upon the government books only half of the cargo, and admitting the remainder for a certain sum in specie and goods, paid to themselves; and the first result of the difficulty was a revolutionary movement under Alvara3 I?! 0( Fi TL S( of C Unit Paci tiliti hoist and Calil Itl histc Btill I it to Cole host! theii and agail upoiT and IC. t rights,- to prove ajor advcrsis ," by of forgetfulness to which such a man So Uttle need has uW do great injus- tate his manner of Upper California, A-hich raised a/v^i- aii ••count of that I Prtfidente Busta- was stated that, in of a Californian of ng at the same timi- jofthe State,)— he, ler the country, and rhe Don's brother, a n patriotism, or the himself,— bore this a commission — em- Government of Alta be instriunent which ' the proper signa- Ihe Don was called trument, that irregu- ing importance. But ed upon as a pretext ernment to the most iwing himself, and his iv, for having rebelled 10, the time when the itinued to be the Gov. that period no event! CHAPTER XVI. A New Era in Californift— War with the Unitod States— Various Haltles— rieroism of the Americans— Coiuiuest— Discovery of (lold — Hrilliant Hopes — On the Pacific again — Lona: Tom Finishes his Yarn— Speculations on the Future of California— The Prisoners— Foor Graham— Home and ray Wife— Reflections. Soon after this commenced a new era in the history of California. In 1845 a rupture occurred between the United States and Mexico. Commodore Sloat of tho Pacific Squadron, hearing of the commencement of hos- tilities on the Rio Grande, immediately seized Monterey, hoisted the Star Spangled Banner from the Custom House, and issued a proclamation of war to the people of the Californias. It would be foreign from our purpose to give a detailed history of this war. The principal incidents are doubtless Btill fresh in the memory of most of our readers. Suffice it to say, that Commodore Stockton, General Kearney, Colonel Fremont, Captains Barrows and Thompson, and hosts of others, did honor to the flag of their country by their gallant achievements. At the Rio San Gabriel, and on the plains of Meza, decisive battles were fought against overwhelming odds, when victory, as usual, perched upon the American banner, with a loss of only one killed and thirteen wounded in the two fights. Various other engagements occurred, the history of all of which will bo found in other volumes. One incident will illustrate the daring and heroic cha- racter of the men engaged in that glorious struggle. At (299) 300 SCENES IN THE PACTFIO. Santa Barbara, Lieutenant Talbot, with only nine men under his command, was besieged by a large body of the enemy and compelled to evacuate the place. He gal- lantly forced his way through the besiegers to the moun- tains in the vicinity, where, refusing to surrender on any terms, he kept the enemy at bay like a tiger in his lair, until they set fire to the groves and bushes around him, and actually burned him out. He then forced a march of five hundred miles through the enemy's country on foot to Monterey, where his arrival caused the utmost joy to all the Americans, with whom he was a great favorite, and who had given him up as lost. By the terms of the treaty of peace, <^ alifornia came into possession of the United States. Next came the discovery of gold r,nd the rush of emigrants to that coun- try from all parts of the world. Exaggerated stories of the immense mineral wealth of the new El Dorado in- flamed the minds of men, and thousands left the slow but sure pursuits of home for sudden wealth in a strange land. With a few the dream has been realized; and although in the aggregate vast sums of gold have been obtained, yet a large proportion of the miners have learned the to them sad lesson that man, in any country, to be truly happy, must earn his living by the sweat of his brow. Through much exposure and suffering, wearied and heart broken, the poor miner has not unfrequently returned from the scene of his brilliant hopes to spend his last hours among his early friends — a sadder but a wiser man. But to return. On the fifth of May, 1840, we made our adieus to our acquaintance in Santa Barbara, piepa- ratory to falling down the coast. The American visited the sick Englishman,found him breathing faintly,and apparently very near death. But it was necessary to embark, and leave the dying man in the kind care of his nurses, who, I have no r ^ only nine men arge body of the place. He gai- ners to the moun- surrender on any tiger in his lair, shes around him, n forced a march r's country on foot the utmost joy to a great favorite, 5, «, alifornia came Next came the rants to that coun- rgerated stories of ew El Dorado in- lands left the slow wealth in a strange jeen realized; and of gold have been miners have learned any country, to be y the sweat of his 1 suffering, wearied iS not unfrequently ant hopes to spend ^da — a sadder but a Vlay, 1840, we made inta Barbara, p.epa- American visited the aintly,and apparently r to embark, and leave lurses, who, I have no TRAVELS IN THE CALIFORNtAS. 303 rfoubt, administered to his last want, and made his grave-dress wi«h willing hands. " Dead— starved to death ! Death of a Briton from thirst and starvation, by direction of Juan Bap- tista Alvarado, Governor of Upper California,'' Is the account which truth will give, on earth and at the judgment, of this man's death. At twelve o'clock, the lusty fellows a* the windlass had the anchor on the bow, and our good old ship was bearing down the coast under a fine northerly breeze. She, or rather he, for I De'iieve ail Dons are males, and particularly Don Quix- otes, being in ballast, ran rapidly, cheeringly, and exultingly over the quiet sea. And right glad were we to be under weigh. We had been long enough among the jolly birds and flowering meadows of California, to rejoice to be again at sea. It was sad, howevar, to be borne away from the prisons and the moans of our fellow-countrymen. And now the deep blue sea — its mermaid song — its anthems of sub- limity — its glories and beauties ; really and in truth, what are they 1 What man in his senses loves the Ocean 1 The mer- maids are all porpoises, and their songs all grunts! The deep sounds of the ocean's pealing organ, are the rude groans of the winds and the dashing rage of far-rolling surges, rap- ping madly at the bows ! The tufts of dancing foam on the bitter wastes — desert, heaving, unsympathizing, cold, home- less ! Love of Ocean ! ! Poetry of Ocean ! ! It is a pity I cannot love it — see in its deep still lower realm, or in its lonely tumults, or its surface when the air is still, its heat, Ihirst and death, its vast palpitating tomb, the shady hand and veiled smile of loveliness ! — that I cannot believe Old Ocean has a Iteart, which sen3s its kindly beatings up and down all the shores of earth ! Poetry ! Loveliness ! They may be there ; but Ocean's odor and mien are not poetry to me ! If I have ever said anything to the contrary, I beg the pardon of the sea poets. There is, however, a certain class of beings who hold a very different opinion : these are the regular old Salts ; men who from boyhood have slept in the 304 SCENES IN THE PACIFIC fni ecastle, eaten at the windlass, sung at the halyards, danced oil the yards to the music of the tempest, and hailed the tu« mult of the seas as a frolic in which they had a joyful part. We respect these poets. Indeed, the Ocean to them is a world, the theatre of their being ; and by inhabiting it all their days, these singular men become changed from partici- pants in the delights of natural life on land, to creatures of memory. Memory ! that mental action which sifts the past of its bitterest evils, and gives only the blossom and the fruit to after-time. These they enjoy in the midnight watch, at the dawn, in the storm, the calm, and in visions of sleep ; but for ever upon the deep, on the great expanse of the Sea ! Is it wonderful, then, that they should love it ? that their affections become poetry ? See them seated at their meal before the mast ; their wide pants lap over their sprawled limbs ; the red flannel shirt peers out at the wrists, and blazes over their broad chests between the ample dimensions of the heavy pea- jacket ; and crowning all is the tarpaulin with its streaming band, cocked on one side of the head ; and grouped in the most approved style of a thoroughly lazy independence, they eat their meal. At such times, if the weather be fine, stud- ding-sails out, and top-gallants pulling, they speak of the ship as a lady, well decked, and of beautiful bearing, gliding like a nymph through the gurgling waters. If the breeze be strong, and drives her down on her, beams, they speak of her as bowing to her Lord and Master, while she uses his might to bear her on to her own purposes. And if the tempest weighs on the sea, and the fierce winds howl down upon her dead ahead, and the storm-sail displays over the fore-chains its three-sided form, and the ship lays up to the raging ele- ments, breasting every swoop of wave and blast, she still is a lady, coming forth from her empire of depeniient loveliness to bov; before an irresistible force, only to rise again, and present the sceptre of Hope to dismayed man. These Salts believe in the poetry of the sea, and of the noble structures in TRAVELS IM THE CALlFOKllIAS. 305 lalyards, danced J hulled the tu- 1(1 a joyful part, n to them is a inhabiting it all red from partici- [1, to cruatures of lich sifts the past som and the fruit ight watch, at the of sleep ; but for ,f the Sea I Is it hat their affections r meal before the rawled limbs; the d blazes over their ; of the heavy pea- wvth its streaming nd grouped in the independence, they atber be fine, stud- they speak of the ful bearing, gliding i. If the breeze be s, they speak of her B she uses his might And if the tempest iiowl down upon her over the fore-chains p to the raging ele- iid blast, she still is a dependent loveliness y to rise again, and i man. These Salts he noble structures in which they traverse its pathless immensity. And it may be that they are right, and I am wrong. During the day we passed near to the coast. A fruitful strip of land running along the shore ; broken by hills in- creasing in height from the water-side towards the interior, and bounded by high mountains partially covered with trees, but generally burnt and barren, is a true showing of that part of California. It was a bright day, with a cool whole- some air. Every sail was out and filled, as white as snow, the wind on the larboard quarter, the crew lounging, and the dolphins chasing, and the gulls screaming, and the spray dashing at the bows. Home, and the mother of my buried boy, if I may speak of myself, the heart's guiding star on those wastes of soul and of nature, were drawing near me, and in thought were there. Speed on, noble ship, speed on ; it is the illusion of happy memories, speed on ! On the sixth and seventh the breeze continued favorable. The coast was generally in sight, and appeared to be more and more barren as we followed it down ! On the eighth we sailed along the east side of Guadeloupe. This island is about thirty miles in circumference, somewhat mountainous, evidently of volcanic origin, surrounded by im- mense reefs of black rocks, and destitute of coral formations There are two places of access, the one on the southwest, the other on the northwest side. It has no harbor for anything else than small boats; and though containing considerable quantities of arable land, is uninhabited except by sea birds, turtles and goals. The latter are the offspring of a few of these animals landed upon it by the early Spanish navigators. They have been in unmolested possession of the island for the last eighty years, and are now so very numerous, that they could be profita- bly hunted for their skins and tallow. In former times this island used to abound in sea elephants and hair seal ; but the Ame- rican hunters and whalers have nearly destroyed them. Ai we passed, a right whale spouted near the shore. The cir- i.. 306 SCENES IN THE PtClriC. cumstance electrified Tom, and opened his word loom to the following yarn. " The lubber, that whale ! I would like to be in the bow of a staunch boat, with four stout oarsmen, and a bold fellow to steer upon him ; I would soon make him spout blood in- stead of water ! ' I was telling you the yam of my becoming a sailor, when the old man coiled up my thoughts among the halyards. Now that whale brings them back again, and while he is taking his observation, and blowing his nose, I'll finish my yarn. I was about nineteen when I blundered against the capstan of a whaler, and shipped at New Bedford for a three years' cruise. We left port with as good an outfit of harpoons, lines, knives, trying-pans, stores, and ship's crew as ever swam the brine. I remember we had a studdin-sail breeze a longer time on our passage out, than I ever saw before or since, ex- cept in the trades. "We put out all sail in sight of the New Bedford Light, and never took in a rag until we had crossed the equator ; and then we struck a dead calm, which conti- nued fifteen days. That was the worst siege at oakum and spun yarn that Tom ever saw. The sun seemed to pour down fire ! It was so warm that the tar in the deck fried and bubbled ; and the old long boat shrunk so much that you could stick your thumb through between the planks ; and the d«^cks were so hot that we were obliged to keep them con- stantly wet to enable us to stand on them. And as to breath- ing, we found that the hardest work of all. The great atmosphere seemed to have escaped, and left a perfect void ! The ocean was smooth ; not a rough spot upon it as big as a cent, except when the cook threw his slush overboard ! It lay and rolled like a bending sea of glass ! The vessel, with its sails hanging loose on the mast, rose and fell on it like a sheet upon the breast of the dying. The sky was awfully bare and deserted ! Not a shred of a cloud dotted it for fif- teen days ! I never felt lonesome till that time. I had rather lay to under storm sail a twelvemonth, than be compelled to IC. word loom to th« to be in the bow and a bold fellow n spout blood in- ling a sailor, when )ng the halyards. J, and while he is ,ril finish my yarn, igainst the capstan for a three years' t of harpoons, lines, as ever swam the il breeze a longer before or since, ex- in sight of the New intil we had crossed calm, which conti- siege at oakum and ;un seemed to pour arin the deck fried ink so much that you the planks ; and the to keep them con- 1. And as to breath- of all. The great d left a perfect void ! ot upon it as big as a slush overboard! It ss ! The vessel, with B and fell on it like a The sky was awfully cloud dotted it for fif- tiattime. I had rather , than be compelled to TRAVEL! IW THE C A L I r R W I A ». an? pick oakum and make spun yam, and think through a calm like that. "Well, at the end of fifteen days, just as the sun •et, a little cloud about as large as John's tarpaulin, scud up in the nor'west, like an angel of mercy to tell us there was wind once more in the heavens ; and about eight o'clock ihe old ocean began to stir ; the air struck our parched bodies, and the sails flapped, the vessel moved, and we began to feel that we were climbing out of a great hot grave ; I never shall forget that calm. " Well, we had light breezes till we got off Montevideo, when a stiff norther came on, which bore us on ur)ilir double- reefed topsails down to the Cape. Here it came on to blow a gale, and we were obliged to run into Magellan, and lay to imder the lee of the highlands. After lying there two days, the wind chopped round northeast, and the old man thought we might as well run through the Straits. But the gale was renewed, and rushed overland upon us with such fury that we could carry for a number of days, only sail enough to make the ship lay her course. At last we hove in sight of the Pacific, and run afoul one of those villainous head winds which you know often set into the west end of the Straits. This detained us nine days. At the end of this time, it hauled into the northeast, and enabled us to get into the open sea. Our course from the Straits was NW. But the wind again chopped round dead ahead ; consequently all we could do was to try to hold our own. We accordiogly beat off and on, and lay too twelve days, when we found me must up helm and let her run. The gale was awful ; and as we advanced south the rnggedness of the sea was continually more and more frightful; the fold became intense; the water froze upon the deck six inches deep ; and the spars, and masts, and rigging were covered with ice to such an extent, that the ship swayed under the gale, and was likely to swamp ; the most like a death-call from the mermaids that Tom ever saw, was that gale. The ship lurching her spars into the waves, the sailors slipping, the rigging stiff, and the only sail set, nof) HCKNBB IN THE PACiriC. cuVL'ied with ice several inches thick ; the aasts lii<(> vaat icicles, and the old man and every man expecting evvry mo- ment to go down ! Alter drifting, however, as far as 70** South, the gale abated, the wind changed, we cut away the studding-sail, rigged another, and stood away for the north, and in a few days got rid of our ice and other troubles. We now took our course for New Zealand, and about 300 miles east of that it«land fell in with the whales I thought of, as we" . " Bear a hand there, you lubbers." " Aye, aye, sir." " Bring out the old trysail, and run your yarns into that." " Aye, aye, sir." And thus was Tom's yarn again severed, much to his chagrin, and my regret ; for I longed to hear a whalesman's account of his bold and dangerous calling. On the 10th of May wc came in sight of Cape Saa Lucas, bearing thirty miles SE. It was about five o'clock, P. M. The wind had been dying awhy since noon, and now barely kept the ship moving. The western portion of the sea was all light and glorious ; it lay panting, as a wearied giant juM returned from the field of conflict. The sun, as he fell stea- dily down the great arc of heaven, was reflected more and more widely and intensely, until his reddest rays shot through the clear tops of the billows, and scattered a purple drapery of clouds sprinkled with gold up half the western sky. Gay- plumaged land birds gathered on the rigging, anti twittered and sang to the approaching twilight. The land was eight miles from us ; a rough red waste of mountains I those holy desolations where the Indians' God made his descent to bless them, their streams, their fruits, and give elasticity to their bows. Sturdy scenes ! rocks on rocks, gloom on gloom, sand on sand, and dearth feeding dearth, and universal thirst prey- ing on animal and herb ! The living things in the sea fro- licked around us. The dolphin, the bonitos, the flying fish, the porpoise, the right whale, were all employing their muscles in their own way among the sleeping waters ; and about the sides of the almost motionless vessel swarmed shcials of bright and active little fish that seemed to beseech us for |c. aasts likp vast ktin^ evvry mo- as far as 70** e cut away the ly for the north, !r troubles. We about 300 miles I thought of, as " Aye, aye, sir." yarns into that." n again severed, lonjfed to hear a rous calling. Cape Saa Lucas, ive o'clock, P. M. 1, anil now barely on of the sea was wearied giant juit un, as he fell stea- reflected more and t rays shot through i a purple drapery i^estern sky. Gay- ging, anri twittered Phe land was eight jntains ! those holy his descent to bless i elasticity to their 3om on gloom, sand [liversal thirst prey- ngs in the sea fro- itos, the flying fish, 1 employing their eeping waters ; and ssel swarmed shoals ed to beseech us for r TRATIL8 IN THE CALIFORNIA S. ao0 proN'Clion and food. As the sun's disc sank below the hori- zon, and he withdrew his last rays from the mists of the sea, and lelt the stars to their own twmkling, the mellow clear blue of a tropical sky came out over us ; such a sky as hangs over Athens and the Egean tides and islands. This was re- flected back from the waves, on which the stars danced and flickered, were extinguished and lighted up again, as swell after swell approached the ship, and rocked, as does the heart of the mother the child slumbering on her breast. The moon was in the first quarter, rounding to the full. And I remember never to have lelt so strong a sympathy with it as on that glorious night. If dreams come when reason sleeps, and recollection serves only to feed the aflections, and dee|)en the musings of the imagination and associating powers, I cer- tainly dreamed with eyes on the moon and stars and the sea of that night. The day had gone ; it was night ; the sta£S were out, and the sea was dancing to the music of the flir distant and ceased tempest, and the moon had come over my home, was shining through its windows upon the table at which we ate, on the chairs in which we sat, on the walls that had witnessed the high and unmarred pleasures of the domestic afTections. It was lighting up the altar of my holiest hopes, and crowding upon it every gem of joy which had shone on the path of the past ! A bird chirped among the rigging a note which resembled one that had gladdened even- ing walks, and often died in the ear as in the opening spring sleep was gathering us to rest ; and that chosen star, that con- secrated star, that star on which we hung our vows at parting, was looking down upon me ! I walked forward among the watch, who were loitering about the forecastle in silence. " A fine night this, sir," said one of them, " a fine night, sir. This weather reminds one of our New England Indian sum- mers, when I used to go out of an evening to a country dance, and throw clubs into the trees to get the finest apples for the neighboring girls. I recollect that I lost my heart on just eucb a night as this, when about twelve years old ! I weD* g,anara-r, -b" '— j „„^„,,i,„ ,p,out from the n,a.n Turrets nse on turrets '^^J ^^^^^^,^ confusion They are an .regular unst a .^^^^^ g Y ^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ °'-f jtC m bada'finevlwof both shores of Toulf of CaXrnia for fifty miles. The scenery was ex- the Gull oa ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ tremely mterestinR. The eastern i thP western. The eastern shore of the bull, the e>■' with loaded mules in thirty days. From this lake to the navi- gable waters of i'ae San Joaquim is not more than three hun- dred and fift.^ miles, with plenty of wood, water and grass the whole distat'ice. The high range of mountains between the San Joaquim and Mary's river can be passed in six hours. There is a low gap, pathway leading through it The route from this gap leads up Mary's river to the forks ; thence up the east fork, and over the plains, to the Pont Neuf branch of the SaptiH ; thence through a gap in the mountains to Big Bear river at the Soda Springs ; thence up Bear river and over the plains to the Rendezvous on the Sheetskadee ; thence over the plains to the Sweetwater branch of the north fork o is lake to the navi- re than three hun- irater and grass the itains between the ssed in six hours, igh it The route > forks ; thence up unt Neuf branch of > mountains to Big up Bear river and heetskadee ; thence jf the north fork o to Messrs. JOrilwOn niiil V^iioiilVJCSir.-.r., r. ■.•.■•■. •.■«•.•.•.•-■« -.-t in the schooner Gt trudes, formerly the Honduras of the Hawaiian Isles. On the sixteenth we anchored alongside the prison-ship in the roads of San Bias, and had the pleasure of knowing that none of our countrymen had perished on the passage. They had suffered greatly from thirst and hunger ; but they lived ; and that to us and to them was cause of the deepest gratitude. Forty-six Americans and Britons in chains !-in the chains of Californian Spaniards ! Will not the day come when vengeance will be repaid ? During the afternoon and t.he night following day we rode sixty mile» to the city of Tepic, and laid the case of these pr». leo?? ^^ ^^ .^-1