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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film^s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cli..h6, il est filmd d p^^rtir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 r^fc Ittirfaffl e_-4^:U.'^^4i:?ilt ■vf '<■ / • 'tr'- . /■■:■■■ BETWEEN Wmni{)e^ aud Yictona. -BY- GEORGE BRYCE, LL.D., "^^7-IiTiTIZ=Ea-. I— prairie an^ fIDountain. ii-Xo! Zbc poor 3n^lan. -•/ •• .":'/■ 1888. w 1^\ - ./ -v V ' <-. : , ■» <*.,•■• , I \ .i- ;*;.,--/- .V '^' -:■:/ \ :.-;.^i.y::-T -^ •(/ ■"■'A'. -■1 )? ■.■■ :jr". V. ;^ I ■^ ' "'" ^::^;>; >;v, -x ^ f ,,3, -. ' -.• i: r'.i:- .' ■ V ,A. '■'-■*., ■-..^f . ■'-i.-^_ ■.'■'\ --fj ■^ ■ I.' ..ri-'- •1 .''.■. V -V : i ~ .'-^^- •^ . :. .^ r C^^-^'^ V r:v^^y'ex^^ /. iC.:ft-X^ c-J (L^ / OLiDAY Rambles / /-,!•' f'': |{kt\vi:kx IVinnipeg and Fictoria. R^ GEORGE BRYCE, LL.D., TTsTliTiTI^'BO-. I.-.priiiric ami Mountain. 11. -Lo : The Poor Indian. WINNIPEG 1S88. \ '^ nri n >* ii \ t\l1 @ nlenls. I. PRAIRIE AND MOUNTAIN! ,.^,,, I. A PROSE IDYL OF THE IIAUVEST IIME IN MANITOBA. 3 IT. A DASH THROUGH THE I'RAHUES ON THE CANADIAN PA ^ CIFIC RAILWAY III. THE ROCKIES-THE "MOUNTAINS OF SHININd STONES." .^. IV. ATFRACTIONS OF ROCKY MOUNTAINS I'ARK '^ V. CLIMBING THE GLACIER AND SEEIN(; THE BEAUTIES OF THE SELKIRKS VI. FROM THE COLUMBIA AND DOWN THE FRASER TO THE SEA. ,9 II. LO! THE POOR INDIAN! I. VISIT TO THE FAMOUS CHIEF PIAPOT, AND NIEW OF OUR IN- DIAN POLICY '^' II THE RESERVES ON THE CROOKED LAKES OF THE BEAU- TIFUL QU'APPELLE ^^ TIL THE ASSINIBOINES ON THE HURRICANE IHLLS ^'^ IV. TIIK CIVILIZED OJIBVVAYS OF OKANASE '''9 V. OUR REFUGEE SIOUX TAKING KINDLY TO THE SOU 77 VL THRILLING INTERVIEW WITH THE FILE HILLS INDIANS S, ■., V ^ \jyect7/ard l£c. BOUNTIFUL HARVESTS-PROSPERITY FOR THE PEOPLE— A PROSE IDYL OF THE HARVEST TIME. This is tlie time t(» journey tliroiigii our j)i'airies. Tho vveatlior is oool, tlic air is clear and tlie season is restful. Manitoba is Imrstino- witii ])lenty. The lu)|»es of the i)e.)i)le have been realized, and now they are gladly lirinjring in their tributes to Ceres, Visitors I'roni abroad are tille(l with won- der as tVoni railway trains they look upon the continuous niiles of the harvested Elysian fields. Old JVlanitobans declare tlio former days have returned, and the late comers admit they have never, in any land, seen such abundance. Letters from the east but serve to increase the wonder of the piairie dwel- lers, foi- they tell that few otl.ei- paits of the continent have had such plenty. The westbound traveller on the Canadian Pacific Railway is first surprised at tlie magnitude of the PORTAGE LA I'RAIRIE HARVEST. Year after year the Portage plains have l)een yielding their abundance. The early Canadian farmers, nearly twenty years ago, were attracted here. Many of them wei-e good farmers from Ontario, and knew how to give our land an o])portunity, for while our Province rejoices in affording a home for the ))Oor man, yet the broken down tradesmen and unsuccessful merchants who have taken to farming on tlie prairies have, at any rate in the early years of their apprenticeship, made pool work of it and not d(me our soil or climate justice. Success- ful work for years has made the Portage la Prairie farmers well-to-do, and brought the land into a good state of cultiva- tion. Though the prairie farmer is free from the toil of the Ontario ])ioneer, of having to level the forest, yet he must pay tribute to the genius of toil by working off the wildness and rawness of the prairie soil before he can lay it under full con- tribution. No doubt the well tilled acres of the Portage plains are favored by the salubrious climate, caused by the nearness — 4 — tjf Fiakc Manit(tl)n. vvliidi iiKMlcratcs tin* ti'inpcratun) alon^' lli.-ir iinitlicni sid*'. As milf aftcir mile of wlieat in stook, uv iiiucli of it in stack, is |)assiMl, one is tiirown into tlu' Imuior of jMX'try and frcls like nuikiiiL^a Manitol.an " (;(.'(>r},'ic." Tiicso ar»^ ticldsin reality. 'I'iic stooksau! so wiiitc and nnstaininl hy rain, and lis fill' ns the eye can sec lines of tlieiii extend until tliey con- verge into one. Not only the si/.i^ of the fields, Imt the (irowded .stooks suy;<,'OHt to the Ontario visitor a plenty that quite over- wlndnis him. What a t,nand haivest honje tlie I'ortaue farnier will have under the Septeniher moon as h(( looks at his shorn fields of stuM'le and his numherless stacks of j^'athered , stt»(»k, or iiiiiiior of Tlicso arc nl l>y rain, tlicy (.'Oil- crowdod lito over- U'o fariiu'r Ills sliorn t'fl ,<,'rHin. aiul aro w of tho mi) OS !)y J)oiiit we took, one i<'lid Citv to be delivered in Hrandon. On our journey tho conversation turned on Thomas Carlyle. The vounrinciples laid down by his much nuiligned society. , The farmers are the patriots of the country, have no other (md to serve than the good of the country, aiul have (piickened the ))rovincial con- science to make our politicians stand u[) for the right as they are doing. This country, he maintained, had been comjtelled to light an unequal battle with other innuigration fields, and it would be much in the interest of all the railvvavs to uive lower rates of freight, for so the farmers woidd be al>le to vm- bark in greater operations and provide more freight. The rest of the party would not admit that the Farmers' Union had had all t;lie patriotism of the Province, but yet were not very well able to answer his arguments. We all agreed that the piesent harvest, with its estimated export of ten million bushels, would be a irreat boon to the farmers, and assuage manv of their sor- I l< i I rows. Perhaps the most interesting member of our party was A WELL-J30RN LADY, tlie wife of an Irisli oentleman engaged in farming north of Brandon. This Uidy is connected with a family well-known, both in Canada and Britain, for its literary work. She had been brought up in Ireland, seen much ot the world, had trav- elled largely on the Continent, and come to settle down on a ])rairie farm. And she was so fond of it that she could not think of u'()inu back to the Old Country. She and her hus- band had been accustomed to ride over the pi-airics on horse- back, but two sweet little childi'en, one of whom accompanied her on her stage journey, made a more elaborate mode of transport necessary now. She had, with true British pluck, undertaken the heavy duties of farm life, and yet was a lady of intelligence and cultivation, and, unle.is the vv liter is mis- taken, could with her imagination and observing ])ovver, wi-ite a good book des(triptive of prairie life, as one ot )ier relatives had (hme of the backwoods of Canada. Too often we see our British immigrants living on driblets of money received from time to time from the Old Country, and we call them in con- tempt "rendttanco farmers." ft is j)leasing to .see well-born and cultivated men and women coming to engage with pleas- ure in piairie farming, and able at the same time to make it ])ay. Arrived at Brandon our pleasant party dispersed, and the writer esconsed himself in a C. P. R. train for the far west, when sv. .^rx^i-xv*'.\!mif^ yjpp i — Ji' i)arty was »g nortli of welJ- known, • Nile had 1, liad tiav- rm of a Swiss chalet, and find yourself surrounded by so many cultivated and pleasant people, you can (juite fancy you are in a tourist's inn in Switzerland. THE HEAR PLATFORM. There grows upon us as we go on hour after hour a dispo- sition to take the v."orld easier. Our powers of sight-seeing become overtaxed. The little prairie towns we are passing are very much like each other. Built as many of them are in the western American style, v/ith the main business street facmg the railway, we recognize familiar names of former Win- nipeg people, who have obeyed the impulse to go west. But the most determined of our company, who have the true American sight-seeing disposition, find their way to the rear platfoi-m of the train, and there on camp-stool, on the steps, or standing first upon one leg and then on the other, remain hour after hour. The rear platform becomes the habitat of the more enterprising, and there with story, joke, or remarks upon the scenery, the time is wiled away. It becomes the gossip room of the Pullman. There are some in every company who form topics of amusement for the rest, and it does us good to have our follies and foibles taken off' With us the most observed of all observers was the pair ENJOYING THEIR HONEYMOON. There is always a supreme human interest in the case of newly married peojde. Not that they are anxious to be ob- .served, but their very nervousness on the subject makes them interesting. Our honeymooners were most devoted. Unac- customed to the ways of enter])rising railway porters, our friend, who was middle aged, had been sixteen years in the East, and had come home to carry back a young wife frouj the banks of the Clyde to the flowery land, was induced to pay $15 extra for the use of the whole section, lest any intruder might purchase the upper berth and invade his garden of I 1 and conversa- ist show that t a number of te the travel- led, but beau- inest scenery, sit down in 'alet, and find and pleasant J list's inn in [»our a dispo- •sight-seeing are passino- t'leni are in siness street former W in- vest. But the ■ue American '■ platform of , or standing- in hour after of the mare ks upon the gossip ]-oom ly who form ood to have )st observed the case of IS to be ob- lakes them ^ti. Uiiac- •orters, our ^i« in the e frouj (he ed to pay 7 intriuler garden of — 11 -r- Hesperides. Not even the vastness of the prairies, the glories of the snowy peaks, nor the magnificent scenery of the Sel- kirks could induce the devoted couple to gaze out of the windows, much less to adventure themselves on the rear plat- form, Byron's famous picture of the night before Waterloo, when " eyes looked love to eyes," etc., so at least the ladies of the rear platform declared, could not exceed the devotion of the newly married pair. It was, however, charitably hinted that the long journey across the Pacific might wear off the glamour and increase the desire for a wider circle of ac- (piaintance. OUR ARTISTS. Every well appointed travelling party has a re])orter and a i-epresentative of the imitative art. Indeed the photographic artist is as inevitable a feature of modern civilized life, as the life insurance agent. Our party had two artists in it, but they were both am.ateurs, and as it happened were both of them en route for Japan. The lady artist was indefatigable. The In- dians were her chief object of interest. As soon as a railway station was reached, her camera on its tripod was erected, and aimed at the groujxs of natives. But Lo is becoming acquaint- ed with the arts of the photographer, and whenever the instru- ment was recognized by the natives it produced as great a scattering as a Gatling gun would have done. One highly ornamented l>rave demanded a dollar to allow himself to be taken. The lady artist succeeded best when from behind the fortification of the car window she got a glimpse of some un- conscious Indian group. The English merchant from Yoko- hama had two photographic instruments, so that he might be called a double barreled operator. One of the machines was very ingenious. It was so arranged that by looking down upon the top the image appeared, and in an instant at the will of the artist, the picture could be taken. The troublesome " sighting" process of the lady o])erator was thus avoided. The other instrument of the Ensflish gentleman was a " de- tective's camera." It was not more than four inches across. It could be placed inside the vest of the operator, the project- ing nozzle alone appearing. It proved a ca]>ital instrument for taking the coy and distrustful natives. While the skulk- ing Indians were avoiding the lady artist the}'^ fell an easy prey before the unseen detective's apparatus. Our party had thus quite an air of business as we took along with us lasting f < — 12 — impreHsions of beaggage car— Id have Inen. form was >f education ^en who can ions, and act ntive ability leed the res- es of miners' iss Bird, on w a peculiar young Jady ^o, and then nture alone ific coast to ^iasm about r choice of bestow her ULnvorthy ot enter on )rtable and le was not — 18 — A LEARNED DISCir.SSION. One evening as the shades were falling, aiid the scenery be- came too dim to be distinguished, the two ladies for Japan, the intelligent wife of the M. P., and the ])rofessor fnll into a discussion, which [>revailed for an hour or two to the no small delectation of the company. The subject of dis|)ute was the question of the use of the right and left hands. The senior lady for Japan mr.lntained tliat every one should be trained to use right and left hands with ecpial facility. The professor held that the right hand was largely for grasping, and the left for sup{)ort; that their purposes were dift'erent, and to become ambi-dexti-al would be of little advantajije. Another of the part}' pointed out that the internal organs of the liody were not bilateral, and so the hands would not be of e([ual })o\ver. The exception of left handedness was next discussed, the greater strenii'th of the riixlit side beinu' referred to as the I'eason for a person lost on the prairie always going in a circle to the left ; and so with arguments h(^t and heavy the evening was spent till we were all driven to oui- berths to be up in the morning early to view the mountains. THE YOUNG LADY LETTER WRITER. The young lady just from school was most exemplary in obtainiiiti;" materials for her note book to be jjiven in lono- letters to friends at home. With hints and sui^gestions from various members of the party the note book grew ai)ace. The young girl just fresh from the dry manuals of history, and full of the technical geography of the schools, was anxious to obtain the bald facts of the journey. Our modern education l)ays too little attention to the imasfination. The iormer tjeneration with its Red Riding Hood and Cinderella, and " Heighlio says Rowley," could see the wonderful or the amusing more readily. The zeal witli which our young lady took notes of population, heights ot mountains, degree of gradients and curves and tlu^ like, was worthy of all praise. We shall draw on her mate- rials in describing the THREE PRAIRIE CENTRES which we passed. These are Regina, Medicine Hat and Cal- gary. Regina is the official town of the Territories. If you spy a rather well-to-do young man on the street in Regina and ask your friend his occupation, you will be told that he ' I i '1 Ml I ■ — 14 — bolongs to the Indian office ; if not to that then to tlic land office ; if not to that tlien to the mounted police ; and if tliat fails he must be an official of the court. To be a <;overnmeiit official or to cater for that important class is the chief object of existence in Regina, But this year Regina has very good crops in its neighborhood, and there are several good settle- ments lying north of it. A begiiming was made last yeai* of a planing and Hour mill, and no doubt other industries will be added. With churches and primary schools Regina is well supplied, and society is somewhat highly organized, as is , usually the case in government towns. MEDrCINE HAT is a far more })ictures(pie locality than Regina. The great Saskatchewan aiid its deep cut valley is a new feature as we travel west on the (1 P. R. It is a (piestion as to what use the great unoccupied region stretching for two hundred miles east and as far west from Medicine Hat may be put. Its enormous radius of trade among Indians, miners, exjilorers and travellers, gives " The Hat," as it is locally called, a con- siderable amount of bu.siness. It is probably true that while this region is not by any means a desert, as the country in the same lono-itude to the south in the United States is, vet the scantier rainfall and greater elevation will not allow it to compete with Manitoba as a farming district. It must be said injustice to the region that the crops this year are re))orted good, and our party saw in the neighborhood of Medicine Hat fields of grain harvested and presenting a fine appearance. The fact that here the buffalo roamed freely, and lived on the nutricious grasses, points to this as a field for stock raising, though it would seem to the writer better adapted for fiocks of sheep. Sheep runs in Australia and New Zealand in some- what similar districts prove a source of great wealth. Geo- logically this region is important, as underlying it and at no great depth are beds of bituminous coal, which will be of much value on these treeless plains. CALGARY. This is the home of the rancher and the cowboy. One of our Nova Scotia visitors this suuuner wrote home that he saw herds of cattle near Brandon under the care of cowboys. Our visitor from the salt water evidently never saw a real cowboy. He has often been described. We pass him by, only remark- lon to tlic land ;e ; and if tliat ! a {^overnniciit le chief object lias very good lul good .scttle- de last year of liistrie.s will be Regina is well •ganized, as is , la. The great V feature as we > to what use hundred miles ly be put. Its ners, explorers called, a con- ruo that while country in the ates is, vet the ot allow it to It must be said ar are reported f Medicine Hat le appearance, id lived on the [• stock raising, ipted for Hocks ;aland in some- wealth. Geo- ng it and at no ich will be of — 15 — ing that ( ^ilgary would be dull without him. Calgary is a tine town. Being the depot for tlio vast Edmonton C(nmtry and for the Bow Uiver district, it will no doubt continue to pros- per. Situated on the beautiful, clear river, the Bow, and in sight of the peaks of the Rocky Mountains, its people natur- ally feel themselves though last on the i)rairics yet not the least. The buildings of the town promise to be substantial. It is the ecclesiastical centie of the great churches of the country for the far west i)rairies, and the adjuncts of a higher civilization are rapidly appearing Our prairie journey has for the present ended. People tell us that dwellers on the plains are in all countries spiritless and common-place ; not so when they are under the shadow of such magnificent moun- tains ,s tlie Rockies. vvboy. One of uie that he saw cowboys. Our a real cowboy. ', only remark- J ! I 'I ■ '! i ' i ! I > i I) i! i ; I M 4 • t :; 1.^ ^ yJectward 3P- ITT. THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS-SHINING PEAKS- SPLENDID SCENERY— COMFORT AND SAFETY. How is it best to set; the Mountcains i is the (|iiestion many an anxious traveller to the Ivx^kies asks. For through pas- sengers tliere is no choice, as they rush up the valley of the 15o\v river at night to awaken in the midst of Al()ine glories. But if possible the journey should bo broken at ( Jleichen or Calgary, and then taken up in the day time by mixed train. The |,oint of view, the state of the weather, and the humor (jf the traveller will have much to do with his im- pression ever after. FIRST VIEW. On a former visit the writer had his first view of the Rockies, and th' picture is inetfaceable. An enthusiastic ])arty of us had d' embarked at Calgary, and determined to drive up the valle^ , but the weather was tantalizing. A bank of grey cloud hid before us what we knew must be the Mountains. But up and down the sides of the foot-hills — the Canadian Piedmont — the willing i)onies carried the party at good s})eed. Forty miles of a journey along the banks of the Bow river seemed to bring the Mountains no nearer. Still tlie sombre sky re- fused to give up its secret. The i)arty vested at night, and in the morning in a drizzling rain journeyed up the [)ass. It was a trial of faith. At noon a halt was called on the banks of the stream on which stood the old Bow River Fort of the fur traders. Luncheon over, the journey was resumed. From Gleichen, or the Blackfoot Crossiiig as we then knew it, where a tine view of the Rockies is obtained in good weather, one hundred and thirty miles had been gone and yet no vision came. Is there to be a total disappointment ? Surely the oracle will speak. Suddenly as we ascended the banks of Bow Fort Creek the sky broke, and we were face to face 'vith ^- — 17 — ^G PEAKS- T AND (lucstion many ■ tlirough |)as- ) the valley of lidst of Alpine be broken at e (lay time by le weather, and lo with his im- • of the Rockies, tic party of us to drive up the ik of grey cloud I tains. But uj) ian Piedmont — speed. Forty w river seemed iombre sky re- t night, and in • the pass. It I on the banks ^er Fort of the esumed. From knew it, where d weather, one yet no vision • ? Surely the I the banks of ce to face vith i "THE MOUNTAINS OF SHININ(J STONKS, as the earliest French voyageurs who saw the ilockies called tlu'iii. And well they tlest'rve the naine. The icy peaks gleamed in the sun ; the rays piercing the still falling rain- droj)s, bathecl the hillsides in lainitow hues. To the right stood in majesty, like the walls of a heaN enly citadel, tlu; l*al- lisei' i-anLfc of sliee-r rocks, ei'dit tiioiisjuid feet hi'di. That view must be the llockies to u,> f )ilor<3i's. Fi'om the cfimp at the foot of the R.i'.-kies the incx))erienced traveller started alone one morning before breakfast to I'oach the mountains. Not I'e- turning for st.'veral hours, the adventurous youth was lblloweass, which lies west of Edmonton. This j)ass is claimed to be but ;i,70<> feet at its highest point, and if so, is some sixteen hundred feet lower than our j-ailway j)ass. Even far north of the Yel- low Head pass the mountains niay be crossed, and this with ease. This is by following the course of the Peace river, by which so long ago as iTOlj Sir Alexander Mackenzie, first of white men, crossed to the Pacific Ocean. The railway pass, consisting of the Bow river valley on the east side of the mountains and that of the Kicking-Horse on tho west, is but one of the five more southern passes by which the valley of the Columbia river is reached — the others being Howse's, Ver- million. Kananaskis and Kootanie. These passo, were all ex- plored by Capt. Pallisii'r in his famous expedition of lS.M-9. The hardships and heroism of the men who first penetrated these mountain vastnesses can be but faintly imagined by us as we rush throuixh them bv rail in a C(mifortable Pulluum. RIVAL RAILWAYS. A question often asked as we speed along is : How does this railway C(»m|)are with the other transcontinental lines ' The writer has not crossed by the Northern or Union Pacific rail- ways, but the evidence of those who have is entirely in favor of the Canadian Pacific. " There are no Rocky Mountains," was the common remark of tourists over the American lines. Our visitors speak otherwise, The majestic mountains and variety of scenery of the Canadian line are unappioached, and yet this "tourist railway" has not been obtained by sacri- ficing conunercial considerations, for while our summit is '>,- "290 feet high, the Northern Pacific has two summits to cross, each 5,500, and the Union and Central Pacific railways reach en these ranges i ■n'U.^Z-^ I \ I . :i ; I ! ■ ( 02 — their highest point at 8,240 and 0,017 feet respectively. For splendid views, increasing variety, comfort in travelling and safety, all American ti-avellers give the Canadian Pacific the palm. MOUNTAIN VIEWS. Why should we go to Scotland to be rapturous over Ben Lomond and Ben Nevis and the rest, when these but reach to the foot-hills of our Rockies ? Why should we so earnestly desire to vist the Swiss mountains — majestic as they are — when Castle Mountain and Stephen and the Cascade await us on ( 'anadian soil. In the nature of the case, however, the mass of our people cannot visit the Rockies any more than they can cross to see Ben Lomond or gaze u|) at the Righi or Matterhorn. Means should be taken to acquaint our Cana- dian i)eople with the beauty and grandeur of our western herit- age. Fortunately this summer the Mountains have been visited by a number of Canadian, British and even French artists, who have carried back many a " thing of beauty." The photographers too are rendering good service by their really excellent views, taken from every " coigne of vantage." Surely as the years go on our publishers will prepare pictorial volumes of Rocky Mountain scenery, that many more Cana- dians may feast their eyes on the beautiful. I ! i If 1 il •espectively. For in travelling and ladian Pacific the ^Jl/eslward j£o. Lpturous over Ben 'lese but reach to we so earnestly tie as they are — Cascade await us ;ase, however, the any more than J) at the Righi or juaint our Cana- our western herit- itains have been md even French g of beauty." The e by their really ne of vantage." prepare pictorial inany more Cana- IV. ROCKY MOUNTAINS PARK— SNOWSTORM IN THE MOUNTAINS-THE NEW C.P.R. HOTEL- THE ANTHRACITE MINE No one can fully appreciate theii- grandeur by hurrying through the Rockies on a railway train. If the traveller wishes to see the greatest variety of scenery within small compass, he should lie over at Banii". This is the centie of the ROCKY MOUNTAINS PARK. The idea of a national })ark for the Dominion has grown by degrees. At first a few miles square were reserved by the Government, but additions have been made from time to time on the recommendation of the capable (Jovernment Engineer and Surveyor, Mr. G. A. Stcwai't, who is resident in the park. Now, an oblong of twenty-six miles by ten is set apart, and within these limits' a wondeiful combination of njountain, lake, river and valley is to be found. But the grandest sights are valueless if they be inaccessible. It is only (me of a hundred tourists who has ])eiseverance, we may say recklessness enough, to penetrate unex})lored jungles, cross un- bridged streams, or clamber up j)athless mountain slopes. By an annual vote the Dominion Parliament is providing for the COMFORT OF VISITORS who come to view the park. Excellent macadamized roads, several miles in length, are found winding through the wooded valleys. The Bow river, which runs througii the south- western side of the park, and whose every turn is beautiful, is brido-ed in a substantial maimer. Buildingjs ai'e in course of erection at convenient points, and pathways being cut to points of interest. A conversation with the resident engineer showed that his tastes are in the main correct. The roads avoid angles, and really take nothing fi'om the rustic beauty of the park. The buildings being erected are inainly after Swiss ^j ;! 1 I I ; !i I — 24 — models, and seoni to the Alpine traveller (luite in keeping with the surroundings, while in their construction wood in unsawn form is largely used for the exteriors. The system of leasing land is going on largely, and a busintiss street is ap- pearing, very nnich after the fashion of our western towns. It is a question whether all the buildings put up should not re(|uire the approval of the resident engineer. Though the writer visited Banff" in the middle of September, the first day in the park, and it was a Sunday, was spent in A MAdNIFICENT SNOW STORM. Anyone ac(iuainted with mountain climates knows that a snow storm may be expected at any time. Indeed in really iiiountamous localities hardly a week in the year is free from snow fall. " Would it were always summer" is a well known sentiment, and it was C|Uoted to the writer by a distinguished English visitor this season, but it is a foolish wish. Mount- tains are at theii- best in winter scenery. During our visit six inches of snow fell in one day, and covered mountain and vale with a ])ure white mantle. Next morning the valleys were clear ; the snow was gone ; and hour after hour as the sun rose higher, the exposed mountains lost their covering, and but one distant, lofty range, the Pallisers, kept their snowy garment. Light sliowers with peals of thunder filled the morning air ; and the rising mists, with ever changing liue«, added beaut}^ to the sunlit mountain tops. The angry storm was chased away by the floods of sunshine like the iVowns and passion by the returning smiles on the face of a child. Neai-ly at noon-day a fierce, driving storm of rain clouded the sky ; the effect was grand ; the mountains seemed disturbed on every side. As in Byron's storm on the Lake of CJeneva, *' Far along From peak lo peak, the rattling crags among Leaps the live thunder. " It is no figure to say with him, " Every mountain now hath found a tongue. " But as the snow has gone, and the mists have cleared away we ai'e ready to EXPLORE THE PARK. Banff" nestles amidst the mountains. is undoubtedly towards the north. There Cascade Moun The grandest view lite in keeping (etion wood in Tlio system of |ss street is ap- ^estern towns. |u|) should not ThouiTh tlie II", the first day knows tliat a deed in really iar is free from a well known distinguished wish. Mount- iring our visit mountain and ig the valleys sr hour as the their covering, rs, kept then- ' thunder filled ever changin<»- •s. The angry »shine like the the face of a storm of rain itains seemed n the Lake of cleared slwc away randest view scade Moun- — 25 — tain, with its splendid [)eak, already described hy us, ])resents its beauties, reaching as it does into the sky some ten thou- sand feet above the sea. As the eye continues along the Saw- back range, there is seen " Hole in the Wall Mountain, " and in the choice of these designations the early explorers have certainly rivalled the absurdities of the Indians in giving their chiefs such names, as " Strike liim in the back, " and " Man who Stole the Coat. " Far to the west in the same view is the splendid Castle Mountain, to which we, in company with all vi.«5itors, have already paid our devoirs. It is along the base of these mountains that the Bow River flows, and many a visitor at Banff takes a canoe or boat and passes up the river to a series of beautiful lakes, known as the Vermillion Chain. These are of surpassing intei'est. The (piiet expanses of water, safe for the tourist's party, clear as crystal in their depths, are full of attraction to visitors. Wild rice has been sown in the retired coves of these lakes, and wild fowl will no doubt, in ever increasing numbers, make this their sunnner home. Having seen the lakes, on our return we take in as we leave the river, looking southward, a fine view of the TERRACE MOUNTAINS or Sulphur range. These fill the whole southwestern horizon and reach a height of 7, TOO feet. Many ])oints of local interest will repay a fuller study here. Turning now to the east the mountain scenery is exceedingly grand. Down the valky before us is Tunnel Mountain. It is dark and wooded, and stands alone, seemingly left in solitude when the mighty I'ange split open to provide the pass for the river. Its name is a case of "lucus a non lucendo, " for there is no tunnel through it It seems it was oriiiinally intended that it should l)e tun- neled, but certain adventurous si)irits climbing to its top, dis- covered the present circuitous route around its base, and the tunnel was stopped. Southeast of Tunnel Mountain in our view are the TWIN-PEAK MOUNTAINS or Mount Rundle. These as they rise far up in the clouds, show plainly that they were once together, but in tlie mighty upheaval were torn apart. Letting the eye fall upon the northeast, with Tunnel Mountain to the right, and Cascade Mountain on the left, there is seem a mau:nificent view. Far away is the pure white chain of the Pallisers. Like hoary iiae !H i I I 1 ) Hi ii I , '• 1 ' ' - i| ! 1 ji ! ' 1 1< — 20 — sentinels they stand, tlie sun making no impression upon them, while all around us the mountains are reeking with the rising vapors of the melting snow of yesterday. Tunnel Mountain and the Twin Peaks are all included in this colossal picture, and if anything more enchanting can be seen, it mu^t be in a land of celestial glories. But l)esides, there are the LAKES AND RIVERS of the park. Across the railway' to the north of Bow River is now being built a road which will open up the northeastern portion of the park, far away towards the stately Pallisers. Some seven mik^s of road will lead the tourist to Devil's Lake, the chief sheet of water in the park, bounded on the north V»y the Pallisers and on the south by the Beecher lange. The lake takes its nane from the rugged, unsightly |)eak, the Devil's Head, which, as before noted, is so prominent as to be visible out upon the ])rairies. In the same direction lies the Devil's Gap, so that the Prince of Evil seems to have a considerable recognition in the National Park. The De\ il's Lake is a beau- tiful, clear mountain loch, and will become a favorite resort. It is about thirteen miles long and from one to two miles wide. The Government, it is stated, intend to place a steam launch u|)on it next summer, in which case a most romanti 3 part of the park will be thoi'oughly accessible. But, back again to Bant^'. We may examine some of the local attractions. On Terrace Mountains occur the FAMOUS HOT SPRINGS. These are very remarkable. No traces of volcanic action are found in this part of the Rockies, and yet at seven points along this Sniphur range springs flow from the mountain side, which have a temperature varying from 5H)° to 119° Fahrenheit. Sunnner and winter this thermal supply is given off, and the water has useful qualities. The furthest west of these springs is that connected with the celebrated MAGIC CAVE. When first discovered, a small opening some three feet acro.^s led down from the top of a ridge into a cavern thirty or forty feet deep to a sheet of water, this about thirty feet diameter and four feet deep. In the midst of the pool was found boil- ing up constantly a hot spring, the overflow of which makes III I lion upon them, Iwith the rising Innel Mountain pplossal picture, it muot be in a the f Bow River is |ie northeastern atoly Pallisers. to Jj'evil's Lake, >n tlie nortli by laniTe. The lake eak, the Devil's as to be visible lies the Devil's 'e a considerable Lake is a beau- favorite resort, two miles wide, a steam launch •omanti 3 part of to On , back agam ittiactions. lanic action are '■en points along mountain side, 19° Fahrenheit, ^en off, and the if these springs ree feet across thirty or forty J feet diameter vas found boil- P which makes — 27 - its exit through the side of tlie hill. At the base of the moun- tain one of the Government biiildings has been erected, and from this by a labyrithine tunnel, a new entrance has been made to the pool. It is now possible, without the dangerous descent from above, to inspect the cavern and, if one is so in- clined, to have a hot bath. A hundred yards farther west is another neat building erected by the Government, near which a view may be had of the "basin." This is an excavation into which the water, at a little lower temperature, is gathered. Tiie basin is built up about with the masses of tnfa formed by the spring. In the building no-ar by is a slab, some four feet s([uare, showing well the process of incrustation, which is Ibrmed on everything touched by the water. Retracing our steps down the well-made load for a couple of miles, we reach THE SANITARIUM. This is a comraodius wooden buiiding, under the direction of Dr. Brett, one of our Winnipeg physicians. It has been the chief place of resort at Banff during the .summer. It mu'^t be a difficult task, at a point so far from markets and business centres, to keep up a comfortable hotel, with capacity for .satis- fying the appetites of hungry travellers. The object of the Sanitarium is, as its name im])lies, to supply health to those in search of it. This purpose has been necessarily forced into the back-eing finished. The situation of this fine building is un- surpassed in the ])ark. From the balconies on every side of it the grandeur of mountain, forest, rock and stream presses upon us. The building is a fine piece of architecture, and its pre- sent brown finish, relieved by red, is very effective. In the building is a very lofty rotunda, extending from the ground floor to the very top, after the manner of hotels in the Southern States. Corridors run off in different directions, along which are rooms, said to number in all about three hundred. The building is heated by steam. The dining room is commodious, and the kitchens, with theii- handsome ranges, made us hungry, breathing as we were the caller air of the mountains This hotel is nearly completed, the furniture having reached Banff, and it will no douV»t be conducted in the faultless style for which the C. P. R. is already famous in its hotels in the moun- tains. For both the Sanitarium and the C. P R. Hotel, it is plain, difierent arrangements than the present must be made for the use of the MINERAL WATER. A drive of two miles to the springs, especially for delicate patients, is too great. The writer was glad to hear of another plan proposed by the Government. The park being the pro- pert}^ of the Dominion, no portion of it is alienated ; even the use ot the water is leased. It is the intention of the Govern- ment to establish, at a mile or more below the springs now used, a reservoir, in which will be retained a sufficient supply of water for the Sanitarium and the C. P. R. Hotel, and indeed for any other hotels which may be built. By connecting pipes with this reservoir the water will be conducted and the ])res- sure regulated to meet all demands. The water itself is })ecu- liar in composition as well as in temperature. The springs, s (lashing river, a succession of )lid rock. The els of sandstone :>st ])romiscuons age, and from it wood. Having egretful at leav- ain path up to building is un- cvei-y side of it am presses upon ire, and its pre- fective. In the om the ground i in the Southern ms, along which hundred. The I is commodious, nade us hungry, lountains This ,' reached Banff, dtless style for els in the moun- '^ H. Hotel, it is must be made illy for delicate hear of another being the pro- lated ; even the of the Govern- iie springs now uffieient supply )tel, and indeed onnecting pipes [ and the jires- [■ itself is })ecu- . The springs, — 20 — and the buildings connected with tiiem, have a strong smell of sul[)huretted hydrogen — a by no means pleasant gas. The con»|K»sition of the water, taking 10(>,(K)() parts, is given as follows : Gy])^um 51.45 Ej.^om salts S.7!) (ilaul)ur salts 10. OG Limestone 12.().'{ Soda of coinnicicc 19.37 Sulphuric acid 7.t)r» The ([uantity of suli)huretted hydrogen given off suggests the presence of sulphide.s, and the rapid deposit as an incrus- tation of the substances in solution, when the water cools, is veiy sur[>rising. Tiie water.s have evidently very important luedieinal virtues. The writer n)et and conversed with all the invalids, at the time, in the (j}ran feet, and secured from the men working at the extreme point a choice specimen of coal. Similar tun- nels further in were followed, (me where the coal was about tlu'ee feet thick, and another of nearly five feet. On going into the eN.t)'eme distances the air became heavy, and we were glad to learn that for the health of the miners ventilating ap- ])aratus will soon be introduced. The coal is tlms very easily mined ; it is biought out by the hoise-trucks, and thrown down on an inclined frame of iron bais. This in the meantime serves for sorting, but a rotating sifting apparatus is being prepared, which will be a great improvement. After picking over to re- move any shale present, the workmen conduct the coal by s))outs to the cars on the railwa}' track. The ex])ense of min- iuii' and moving the coal nnist tluis be reduced to a minimum. IT IS ANTHRACITE. The great (question asked is as to tlie character of the coal The Government aeoloijists in our Northwest have been too timid, rhey for years decided against oui- Noith western coal, but now such splendid deposits as that of bituminous coal from the Gait mine are pushing their way into recognition. Scien- tific opinion should encourage, not raise doubts, as to import- ant enterprises. To many it seemed too good to be true that we should find real anthracite on Canadian soil. It was wronir- ly said that there is but one real anthracite deposit in the world and that in Pennsylvania. Of course there are anthracite beds in South Wales and Peru, and now we know that we have this valuable anthracite mine in the Rockies. The London Times correspondent calls our deposit semi-anthracite. Anthra- cite is sini])ly stone coal. The s})ecific gravity, percentage of carbon and hardness of the Rockv Mountain coal, rank it with anthracite. The writer has burnt this coal. It has small flame, has intense local heat and no smoke. Its local condi- tions are similar to those of Pennsylvania anthracite, for it is among the dislocated rocks where pressure and possibly heat may have been applied, as is the case where the Alleghanies of side is cntorod |'>w.s a truck to sliaj)0(I triK^ks tons for San Francisco was being tilled. Tt would not be surprising if this anthracite should drive; out the ])oorer varieties of bituminous coal found on the Pacific coast, for the bituminous coal of Nan- aimo is sonu'what inferioi- to t)ur (Jalt mine coal. Our paity returned from Anthracite rather begrimed and blackened by the visit to the coal mine, but filled with dee|> thoughts us to the ])ossibilities in many ways of our Rocky Mountains. ;ter of the coal ' have been too th western coal, linous coal fron) :nition. Scicn- ^, as to irnport- to be true that It was wrong- iit in the world are anthracite w that we have The London acite. Anthra- , percentage of 1, rank it with It has small ts local condi- racite, for it is l)0.ssibly heat Alleghanies of !/ccbA^ard j£c. V. PERILOUS CLIMB IN THE SELKIRKS--GLACIERS OF THE SUMMIT— THE ICE FIELDS DE- SCRIBED-BEAUTIES OF SCENERY. Wlu'ii till' tourist has rcaclHid Doiialtl, tlic first ('n>ssinLC <'f ihvi colcln'atcil I'olmiibia river, lie lias the satistied feolin^^ that he has "(louc tin; Rockies. " The passa^jje, however, has \n\vi\ so siuouth aiul easy, ami the atb-ntioii to luMJily comfort so com- plete, that the traveller is, as I'ai as possihle, from imasjfiiiing liimself eithei- a Hamiihal or a Napoleon, though he may hav(5 crossed the ( 'aiiadian Alps. At DiJiiald, it is true, the most difKcult eMgiiie(!rii)g, and the finest scenery, are yet ahead, but the fact that the Rockies, the old time harrier, between the prairies and the sea, have been crossed, raises the thought of how great an achievement the Canadian Pacific Railway is. The cartoon in a late " runch," entitled the "New Northwest Passage," is good. " Britannia," holding her trident, is sur- rounded l>y walls ,)f merchandize, and with the engine, "Can- ada," in view drawing the railway train, thus speaks : " Now, fioni my wiisti-ni clitlV tlial fVf)iit tlu; deep, lo where the warm I'acilic waters .sweep. Aj ul Cathay ami old Zipaiigu's shore, My course is clear. What t:an I wi.sh fur more ? " But the Columbia crossed, the train after following the river for a few miles, suddenly dashes into the SELKIRK iMOUNTAINS. The map of British (Jolumliia shows the Columbia liver sweeping in a loo)) around the north end of the Selkirk range, and this is called the " Big l)end of the Columhia." In l)uild- ing the railway the choice lay between following the river for sixty miles of a longer route, or facing the ])asses of the Sel- kirks. Whatever may be the connnercial (U.sadvantages, the tourist may rejoice that the present line was chosen, else he should have missed the grandest scenery ol the whole journey I •GLACIERS ILDS DE- TERY. liist cntssinL,*- of itio train inns up a small tributary of tin.' Beaver and halts at the entrance iA' the I'AMOUS UOCiKlls' PASS. • Readers of the Century Magazine of last year may remond)cr an artieh i»n the Canadian I'aciti" Railway In it was de- s<;i'ibed the sei'ies of hai(lshi|)s and thrilling adventures b}' which Majoi' Rogers and his pai'ty discovei-ed the pass through the Selkii'ks in ISS.S, It is sai() feet, which is almost one thousand feet less than tlui summit of the Rockies at Stephen. 'iMirouany of other lunnan beings seems irksome. In climbing, however, it is a mistake to go unattended. The journey -s interef-ting, even from the starting pinut of the Glacier House. In the absence of other identifications, the writrn- uave suitable names to the various points of interest. Passing a high mass of overhanging rock, under which is a seat for tiiod or idle visitors, a beautiful turn of the mad torrent of the milky glacier stream bursts upon the view. Following on a lovely dell appears, and from this, through an opening in the forest, the glacier is seen. The path winds now towards the stream, ami near it is erected a halting place. Already the tourist has inscribed him.self upon the [)osts and rails of this sunnner house, and some more ambitious sight- seers have engraved their names u})on the raftei's. Imme- diatelv on resuminL' the joinnev a I'ustic bridjre is crossed, the tirst o^'er the stream we are ascending. The path then be- comes more steep, an opening in the woods suddenly reveals a " panorama view " of tlu; mountains and their perpendicular cliffs. The path again descends and o-osses the lllicilliwaet by the " Boulder Bridge." Standing on the fragile structure the stream al)ove is seen to widen out into a dry, sandy flat, cov- ered with thousands of rounded boulders. The path now as- I nearly 11,000 feet lno\v-el,ifI and very High nj) on the [acdonakl, fornier- 31- side is "Hermit" his dog followin^^ per." As we gaze lat this is the head t dashes past our |ich lies enibeddcil IS formerly known Jiwaet, or "Madly name. Luncheon a milo and a half laj) of the lower heon cut through 1 the majestic pre- oj other human 1", it is a mistake g, oven from the ( absence of other es to the various overhanging rock, i, a beautiful turn rn bursts upon the rrom this, through The ])ath winds d a halting place. )on the posts and ambitious sight- raftors. Imme- ge is crossed, the 3 patii then be- suddenly reveals nr perpendicular e Illicilliwaet by le structure the , sandy Hat, cov- lie path now as- — 85 — Cfinds still mort • i.he blocks of solid rock are more numerous ; the stream is crossed again, and here is THE BRIDGE OF THE GORGE. Standing on this the traveller becomes excited. The river dashes l)eneath as if i)ossessed by all the weird spirits of the flood. Aljove the bridge it mav be seen boilintj out from a narrow channel, witli huge ovei-han<;inof rocks unable to cjn- fine it. Leaving the ordinary path, a hard, dangerous climb brings to a lofty cliff over-looking this boiling cauldron. Here is the ■ Grand View." The glacier, with its caves and open- ings, is only a few hundred feet distant. Silvery torrents run down the steep mountain sides before us. Close under are the moraines of the former glacier, which at one time extended far down the valley. Around the " Grand View " is a wilderness of en(3rmous rocks. It seems as if the Titans had been at play and had really piled I'elion on Ossa. But nothing will do but to CLIMB THE GLACIER. A struggle through dry water courses and dense tangle' wood and the foot of the glacier i.-^ reached ! See the steep preci})ice of ice, as deep in color as green bottle glass ! Ice caves run here and there into its depth. Great crevas.ses, like perpendicp.lar rifts, yawn in their greediness. In the green caves, water is dro[)ping constantly, and from under the glacier are coming countless rivulets, joining at the base of the ice to form the river of the glacier. Rocks lying beneath the weight of ice are seen crushed to fiagments ; others, like tiat tables, are on the edges of the monstrous pile smoothed by the grind- ing ice as if planed by the most perfect machinery. Tons of sand and gravel are carried away by the gurgling waters, emerging like s))rings from the icy caves. But such tame achievements as gazing from the bottom of the glacier do not satisfy, and th^ climb is begun up the OLD MORAINE ahmgside the glacier. The perspiration, flowing j)lentifully as the climb is pursued, is ch'lieu in a moment by the air of the glaciei-. A scanty vegetation grows among the boulders and gravel, but is all Alpin«. in character. The writer was at length rewarded by a top view of the k^wer fold of the glacier, and a foothold was gained upon the icy field. But what a waste ! i ^:'iu i; I 1 I I • I 11 •■ il., I ' .1 1 '! 'ill ill — B6 — Thft crevasses opened tlieir wide jaws ; the expanse is a vast snow wilderness ; and tlie sense of solitude is oppressive. In thickness, at tlie point where it is most advanced, the glacin is [)erhaps a hundred feet tiiick, but as it ascends, the solid in must reach a depth of eight hundred feet. In breadth it widriis out from a few hundred feet to three-quarters of a mile at its to]>, and becomes lost in the boundless mer-d«*-glace, or ice- field which covers the mountains at a height of G,.glace, or i,-,- J't of 0,(»()0 or 8,001, |he glacier is its most each year it crco|,s sc'ientiats have nou ^md |. liable, suitijir On the high niouii^ ptiial snow is found, ui'ist be made, an.l ■ It IS more difficult the front of the icc fain climbing up th,. ER t IS a great cavon. oui the solid mass, of green ice, as the i-ock which formcM jse of the cave, th,- '}e sidendor of the ish fancy. Not far gvfiV I'ock, 18 or L>(i li'l example of gla- ^e ice cold water— ^further journey— e moving ice inon- gher. To explore I's, and now some horizon lav avingtholllicilli- ^as toilsome work. 'Hiough the re- >t there lav aloft f a time the herb- '^ — 87 — age was luxuri;mt, and blueberries grew thick enough to re- fresh tlio traveller. Suddenly, as the path turned to tlie left, a roar was heard, and " THE OUTLOr^K " was reached, above a sheer precipice down which a torrent rushed. But, oh ! what a scene ! Before tlie eyes were the perpendicular stone walls of what might be a hundred cita- dels. A dozen torrents were at once in view streamino- down those nigged clifls. The sound of many waters could be hi-ard. It seemed a picture from a tale of chivalry. TIk.'Ic were tlie strongholds and the keeps of the mighty; there the munitions of rocks. The r)ath runs higher. At last it stops, but a way appears oj)en, by crossing th(^ boulders ov(;r tlie torrent, and gaining an old mo)'aine. with another dashing stream on its eastern side. Now the climb was up A STEEP PENINSULA OF IJOULDERS. On restini!' a moment, and turning- around towards the south, there was to be seen the lowering glacier already oxplon.'d, its ])oint far below. But sights of sublimity had aim )st ceased to impj'ess. and the aim in view invited to renewed eftort. Clambering lip the stones and gravel, Sir Donald pv^ k does seem to be nearer. Another climl) and it is certainly within reach Yet it is a])r'roacliing six o'clock, and there is not a companion or a resting ))lace nearer than the hotel, thn^e (»■ four miles away. Indulging in a reflective mood tor a few minutes, and while takin<>- a final view of the mountain u^lories, murmuring that man's chase is always after that which eludes him, the attempt was given up, at a point ]ierliaps .S,Oho feet above the sea. The descent was accomplishc'd safely, and the writer, hungry and tired reached tlie hotel as the shades of evenini; wei'e fallino-. Next day the iourney alonu' the rail- way was resumed. The descent from the summit of the Sel- kirks has a wondeiful piece of engineering in THE RAILWAY LOOP, as it is usually called. The construction is made on the prin- ciple of the threads of a ^crew. Far dcnvn steep gradients on the mountain sides, and crossing curved trestle bridges across the valley, the railway winds round and round. Two ])oints of the loop, 130 feet apart, have a difference in level of 120 feet. The loop is said to be seven miles long. The Uliciiliwaet that t ' I -I i 'I '} — ;^s — wc saw as a bubbling rivulet at the point of the glacier is our constant friend down tlio valley, augmented now by streams from every luountain side. It becomes like an old friend by and by, but it is the tieiee, uneertain, turbulent river to the end. Well on in the afternoon as we haste westward, W(^ come to a tremendous fall in the river, by which it drops •2()ti feet, and to a level 'M)0 feet below the train from which we see it. This is THE ALBERT CANYON, and we view it from a giddv height. The constant feelino impressing the traveilej- is one of wonder at tlie gigantic oper- ations undertaken here by the engineers. Nearly 12 aiiles of substantial snow sheds, now almost completed, will make, it is said, the avalanches of the Selkirks harmless eddies of snow. The traveller reaches with a feeling of relief the bank-; of tbi; Columbia I'iver, having descended in the short space of 4;') miles no less than '2,'M)i^ feet from the summit of the Selkirks. Here is Revelstoke, the second crossing of the Columbia. 'r' '-l;:J 1 ' ' i.'i ! the glacier is oiu now by streams an old iVienil by llent river to tliV ^te westward, wc diieh it drops 2()(i froui which we see constant feelino the giirantic opei" Nearly 12 iniles of d, will make, it is ss eddies of snow, the banks of tho lort space of to t of the Sei kirks, he Columbia. \J!/ectward +£g. VI. DOWN THE FRASER GORGE-THE BIG TREES- MAGIC CITY--THE CITY OF THE DELTA-- THE QUEEN OF THE PACIFIC — THE PACIFIC COAST, PAST AND FUTURE. From Revelstoke, an ascent is made, but by an easy transit the next mountain range is crossed. The region of majestic mountain scenery is left behind. A good story comes to ns here : A sight-seeing American lady, a i'ew months ago, on en- tering the Selkirks on the C.P.R., asked the conductor to kindly point out the objects of interest as they were reached. The obliging official promised the matter attention And now, after leaving the wonders through which tliey had passed, the cicerone asked the ladv whether the magtiiiieence of the mountains, the fury of the cataracts, or the feai'ful chasms and canyons of the route; made most impression on her. Ah ! re- }>lied the lady, it is all very beautiful — all very wonderful ! But what was mo.st striking to you ? continued the conductor. Well, if I must say, answered the prosaic, but proVjably practi- cal lady : " The most impiessive sight was the snow sheds." A steady rise of the line carries the train through THE GOl.D RANGE to the beginning of the Eagle Pass, named, it is said, as if from a Roman augury by the railway explorers who, following the flight of the king of birds, found the route. The mention of the (Jold Range brings back to mind that we are in the land of the gold excitement of I85S, of which more anon. The western ranges of British Columbia all .seem to contain gold. Every- where weather beaten prospectors, or plodding Chinamen, may be seen wandering from place to place, with rocker and camp utensils on their shoulders, looking for new diggings. Moun- tain sides, here and there densely wooded, show the lines of yr- ,'i«T,;.-f^-'>Tj.7f|S''^"' ~ , -1 )' Tick boo, the TWompscm ana *y, V ^^e ?<■««"" .'^^[u com- avlv associated ^'* *Vot few of the .-^^l'^"',';' ,,«;, a new netence! ^"x^t" , V fortune, alter many "i . ^ (\ay as P«''1>»P' THE MOST LOVELY SCENEM U have given ";^ ,;'7;,, butavy of '^^^V^^J^l^'J^e^ ^^ ^ '" c,^ ri\rmcbeen Kivev, wbieU runs t om t ^^^^ .^^_ that this was a pivot point oitAxe oi^ Thornpson, " astvono- thattiu^ of whitemeu, in ^^1*^' ^^^7 Vuv Couipany ot Mon- came tirst oi wu ]SovtTfi^<^^^ tin v^ou'l .? vt now bearing h-s name ^U c^^^ ^,^,=,,,„ ^ ,v,„u dors vldei' described as with l> t," ' , ..jeal," standing at this twntellectual well set in.on t e pliy ^.^^^ ^„ ^,^ It- fltons point, admiring the s»„c,^ ^^^1 — 41 - afterward the well-known sheriff' of Red River, estahlislied hero a ))ost for tlie Astor Fur Company. Kandoops has now become tlie ranching distiict of British ("ohunbia. The variety of climate in our Pacific province is something amazing. While Spallumcheen, })assed by us further uj) the mountains, is, as we have seen, an agricultural district, and while on the coast there is a climate rivalling that of the west coast of the British Isles for moisture, at Kandoops is a region so dry as to REQUIRE IRIUUATION for agriculture. The moisture of the winds from w<'st and south-east alike is precij)itated on the op))osite slopes of the njountains, and Kandoops is so dry that foi- several years to- gether no rain falls. Through the region, however, grows the celebrated " bunch grass, ' which, with the appearance on the outside of dry stubble, is green and fresh in the centre, even in the driest seasons. Large herds of horses from this district have already found theii way over the mount.iins to the plains of the Northwest, and are being sold in the prairie towns of Manitoba. This upper countiy has been settled for twenty years by immigrants, most of whora reached the locality by followino- the toilsome river iournev from the Pacific Coast.. Hither also came many a ha))less wanderer from the Rocky Mountain ])a.s.ses. We cntdd not forget the arrival here in 18(53 of Lord Milton and J)r. Clieadle's party in their misery : " Our clothes in tatters, the lecfs of Milt(»n's trousers torn off above the knees, and Cheadle's in ribbons, our feet covered over by the shreds of moct^asins, our faces gaunt, haggard and unshaven, oui' hair long, unkempt and matted, and we had no means of proving our identity, where our appearance was so little calculated to inspire confidence or liking" But the C. P. R. does not allow us to linger long at Kam- loo})s. Skirting the edgo of Kamloo})s Lake the railway next follows the Thompson, into which the lake narrows. Here the river runs through a dee]) canyon, and the terrific river scenery of British Columbia begins. A mountain hamlet at Spence's bridge mai'ks the spot where the precipitous gorge is crossed by a bridge, from which roa^_ .^ ^,,,1 ,o,u_ Vrasev i.l "^Oli, w»<»'^ . ill-teml«-'i'^'' '"', ,,;„„ river vvUich has his name. ««/|) ,„glas, Red B'^';'';'' ical I^o.Vestev, the attack on to. •- = ^^ «,- was a tM Semple «as k'' l-;^" ^ „„ij. wondertnl, B„t«nve..n _^ >^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^. ,,,. ,e.aces or ,„ Hs gvandenv The.^--ti;SVtr;:t--"^^ tenches, to have been a g. ,a^. oa.scade M'^X^al a gorge, Columbia, bem^f - if ^,y dislocaUon and u yh ^^^^^.^ ^ „, and tlie sea. At lei -r- ^ .,, and hen interior to Sometimes tbo"^''";' J^W ventl-V «atevs -^ th;^^^,__toce Vide, opened to aAlotVK,J_^^^ mildov word w.l^^.^^.^^^ ^, ,, ,n.sh forth. W'M' ^ J ti,e torrent lusne ^ ,„ ,ts ?he way was <•'«=; /dashed to r"='=f, '",1'' "thways al.mg sea A eanoe wo Id ' .^^^.^ „„ nat.nal , ^^^.,„ improvement »>""-.;,, Columbia «" ''"J" ..^^ vemembcred Hrst governor oiBnti^l ,„„eh better to he b„. teder8.tion in !«'/■ ^ ,,,,.cessful butchei ot mtn , ^^^,^,„ than for having been a s".e.^ ^^■^ ^agon « ad. ^ ^^ fe^^,,^, * The following ff "'^r " The road, espec.all i'^^' ^ .Vven by a British travUta. ^^^^^^ wondertu n*e ^.^^^^ Lytton to Yale. >** !''"°^;"Jae of the gorge, it '"' *ti„Vit blurts C'„t out of the m-.-, f,^-,;. „, advance >^ bf J„X"of ascent - S^tt^nl^Hke^^Lri^^^^^ t road at one time and descent are as sinu ij.k: — 43 — red running down, by a seties of rapid turns, to the very l»f>ttom of tlie valley, and then riHini^ as (juickly to pass the face of some protruding bluff, apparently a coni])lete bari'ier to all advance, but ])ast which it creeps, looking from below like a mere line scratched on the round front, 500 or flOO feet above the river. At these points the road is partly blasted out of tlie solid granite rock, and the width increased by beams of rough ]>ine which project over the precipice, but it is yet too narrow for vehicles to pass each other except at certain points. There is, of course, no protecting wall ; the road overhangs the ])iecipice, and nothing is to be seen sujiporting the platform on which you stand — a terrible place to drive as we afterwards found. The road has been built in this skilful and laborious manner, from where it first strikes the Thompson to Vale, a distance of nearly 100 miles." Yale is a town in A STATE OF DECAY, having become a mere wayside railway station, whereas it formerly had an importance as the head of navigation on the Eraser. Following the banks of the river, ever changing vis- tas are revealed as the railway track sweeps around bold headlands, cros.ses bridges at a dizzy height, or emerges from rocky tunnels, until the lower country near the delta of the Fraser is reached. The green valley shows that the seaside moisture is here, and that the regions of drought havc! been forsaken. A few miles before the seaside is reached the rail- way is left for a time to drive across country through the "REGION OF HKi TREES," The forests of the British Colund)ia sea coast are amazing. Not only the height and diameter of the stately trees, but the dense jungle, impassable in many ])laces for man or beast, the trailing mosses lianging from the branches and the luxuriant foliage betoken an exuberance belonging rather to a tropical climate than to the Canadian forest. One feels as if travelling in Gulliver's land of Brobdignag, and the sight-seer appreciates his insignificance as he looks at these monarchs of the fonist that were the contemporaries of Wyclif, or were a century old when America was discovered. Chief among tlese forest trees is the Douglas spruce or fir—known also as the Douglas or Oregon ])ine. This magnificent tree reaches a height of 250 or 300 feet, and is frequently eight feet in diameter, Visitors i ..^.mS^-- 44 — . u,-,gl,ly tvoe. ; *;," itch, l>eavy, aiul. 1^ n >* ^^g, gigantic ai«h in color, l»' '• [i, ,iJ„ of the l'-"^^ "^,„,i i„the British to t\.o pvaiiics <>>' ^•^'^ i,,,, vaviHios, ai« to""' , ^ia„ trees trees, cliieHy ot ^-^^te "S'st of the "-'>"'' ^..^H^ed to .ee -rt:r.^r-"t;::-^ . ,,_.. ,„ Here, vvher. the dense »e^;>'l«J^^^^^^^ of Vancouver. "f,,it little more *''»■", V^v/ned site of a ?,vovving "nt""''l'-V , t ince was .tl)^' ^ ^isX city of Ave where a y^^'-"^";'- « fiH '«'" '^ '^'"T^unA' "'« '"'^'■'' town destroyed by h^e ^ ^.^^ „f stmni-. j^,,,„„^ . thousand l-f ,^ JV a work ot' g'f ^, ^ ^^e to he seen cleiuii« ot tin- '^"^ , ;,t aionj-side "t w'''^. , go, and lines of «!'.'''? °;,.^l,rChina steamer, a"'''' "^J^^^ shU^ tak- the "Ahyssiman the ^,._^ j the nlet "^ ^^5,^ j,. „,a„y other vessels, «^ ; Australia, and tl.t »a ^, ^^, in., loads for South ^"^ 'f j^ ,.,,o,„ seeming a any J '"ands. Vancouv-;- « >j:„g Water Stn^e-'nmd. is ^^^^.^ the lines of >>1«"\ ,,'i,,stY mortals, ^i 'tl».s and schools ^-?' ''"^'ot •:: rle^ "?'g-- .'^''''^'thelr wi-i-ktevidei^tly evidence ot n^s t,, f-ai ov'evation, yet tntu street is closely connected wh the *.^^_,^^,.^^ ^he ""'f^^V *« Cana- ,lian Pacific Radway. --^^''^^ ">=-""'""' oUheFiuserBiver a few miles ^^tS^^^^^'Zl'^^^ until ls(H», was this city oltlio Kiastn- Kivcr Delta. Tli()U;,'li not the tenniims of tliu railway, it has a hraiich, ami seems a jhos- perous town. It seonis more like a Oaiiadian town tlian any place on the Paeitlc (Joast, tliou^rli a little toned down hy the sleepy climate of ('olunil)ia. The site of the town is very beautiful, and the trade of the Lower Fraser River agricul- tural settlements is its piincipal nisource. Four salmon can- neries, in or near the place, employ, it is .said, 1,:)00 men. The jmblic buildings of New Westminster are a credit to the town. But now foi" Victoria, THE QUKKN VATY of the Columbian coast. ( 'ommodious steamers conduct us, in six or eight hours, through the famous straits of (leorgia, in view in clear weathei' of lofty mountains west, east and even south in the neighbouring Washington territory. Straits and narrows which abound with islets remind us of the beautiful Thousand Islands of our own St. Lawrence. At night we ari-ive at Victoria and find it an interesting place, with hotels unsur- passed on the Continent. The city has .souje i:i,0()() people, and is evidently the abode of wealth and luxury. Its clubs, public buildings and private residences speak of an old and organized society. One recalls with wonder the gold (excite- ment of 1858, when Victoria in a few months be(;ame, from a hamlet of liOO, a city of •20,0(Mi people. All is (pnet and set- tled now. The Chinese element is larixe, distrcssiu'dy so. The air of the whole city is Engli.sh and tropical. There is a dille- tante air even about the business men, that in this huiry- ing age is rather a pleasure to the visitor. The soft, genial air of Victoria betokens a Lotus Eatei's land, and were it not that the liquor dealer's trade seems to thiive too well, life would here be veiy enjoyable. The neighboring town and graving dock on the harbor of Esquiniault is one of the little bits of British Imperialism still remaining to us in Canada. Everyone must of course visit in Victoria the Chinese jo.ss house, and many the. Chinese theatre. The Government buildings and groimds, with the neat sv.one shaft in memory of Sir James Douglas, British Columbia's greatest man, nuist be seen. Public schools, a few churches and the cemetery are worth a visit, and the rather antiquated governor's house suggests that Provincial Lieutenant-Governors are not very well sup[)orted amongst us. The really interesting sights of Victoria are the private residences, with their gardens and beautiful flowers. — ¥\ — ';on,r,n,tU.. cvcn.n. -^^ ^J, ,„, „.tm,-^^^^ ^,„„„r,- Cftl. Many n.».e n _,,, ^,„, i acihc coaHl^ j.^_.,,,^ an.l will ""V vlTh-KatU>. as I''''"'' ' I, ,n.' nnn-U ,\iHin>'t>''l. tlie In.Uans w\u> have THK VETERAN t^-l^ ^"'"^ r ui- f atul bost known ot than fifty y'-'^",='f '/a Hi|;l.lan.l«>-- Jf ''"f, '^^^^ to estob- Columbia of old, ami vv tlie t'uiti-aders. (Q\ir (^ndianc. I. * PIA-POT AND MU8COWPETUNG FOUR DAYS' VISIT ON THE RESERVES. " Whafc's to be (ioru^ witli tlu' Iiwlians '" is the question l»o- in<^ i-«,skod by churches, tlie (ioverniiient, by settlers who live near ti:o reserves, and by all who love their country. Even when all are agreed as to the need of earin*,' for th(! Indian, men diller in re^:;ard to how the end may be attained. The (Jeneral i\ssend)iy last year thundered forth denunciations of evil agents and otticials, Private i idividuais spoke in the same direction. The Indian otiicials feel sore. The (Jovern- ment agents maintain that wrongs which formerly existed have been set right, and that now the Indian is on the fair way to hapjuness and comtoit. (iov, J)ewdney very gener- ously ollered to transport a delegation ol the (Jeneral As.sem- bly through the serves lying along the C.P.H. The de})uta- tion came and have jifone, and it is well to know what the state of the Indian is. The writer followed the deputation, being indebted to a private otter to visit the reserves on a few days' tri}). WILD I'lA-I'OT. Pia-pot's reserve is perhaps the best in the Northwest for studying the effect of the present Indian policy. This wily chieftain, as most people know, was five years ago the leader of a band of Indians at the ( 'yj»ress Hills, near the boundary line. He is not a hereditary chief. He was a great warrior against the Blackfeet, Sarcees, Bloods and other tribes some thirteen or fourteen years ago. By his personal prowess, and by his cunning, he pjathered around him a band of Indians, so bad that they have been called "the otfscouring of the plairi.^j." Moreover, like the well-known Shawnee chief " the Prophet," the brother of Tecumseh, at the beginning of this century, or Sitting Bull, the leader of the Sioux in later tin\es, Pia-i)ot is a medicine man of his band. The medicine man, by the use 48 of magic, and of ways that are dark, keeps his control, even though they often doubt liim. It that makes Pia-pot and his ))and so refractory. people under is this power PERSONAL APPEARANCE. Pia-pot is a little over the medium size, and is said to be a Oree, although from the close association of the Crees and Stoneys in this par^ of the country, it seems not unlikely that the chief niay have Assiniboine blood in his veins. His face is a compound of keenness and duplicity. His dark eye re- veals nothing. A look at his face tells you that he has an aleit mind, and a pow-wow increases the impression very strongly. Pia-pot is a diplomat of the plains. He now pro- fesses to be anxious for peace. " Many pe(,)ple say Pia-pot is a bad Indian," were the words of the cunning chief " They are liars," was bis emphatic disavowal. " Pia-pot is now liv- ing so close to the whiteman," said he, " -lat his hair is be- coming white, too." The chief professes himself willing to send his little boys and girls to the whiteman 's school, but not those of ri[)er years. To see and hear about Pia-pot re- minds one of the valy forest leaders, such as Kondiaronk and Pontiac of the former days. Pia-pot's skill as a manager may be seen from the reception of the delegation a few days an^o. All good clothing was carefully hidden away ; the old chief and his band appeared, to the disgust of the Indian officials, in utter i-ags ; they were a real beggar's brigade. No doubt the deputation wondered where all the coats and dresses, stockings and caps sent by Christian women in Ontario had gone. It was simi)ly a ruse to extract donations from their visitors. MORALITY. The difficulty both of the government and the church must be recognized in the exceeding immorality of this and some other bands. The very gene.'al presence of scrf)fu)a speaks of ])oison in the bhx)d that cannot be mistaken. It is well known that bands brmerly along the boundary line were utterly de- based. This band represents the most heathen population in the Northwest, and a heathen po{)ulation degi'aded by contact with unscrui)ulous and villainous whites. The faces of the women and even of the young girls, are besmeared in the most hideous manner with red lead, thus poisoning their blood. 30 — 40 — The whole band adhere closely to the blanket. Pia pot evi- dently regards the blanket as a fetish of his peojde ; sits at his meals with it, walks in it, rides in it, and of course, sleei)s in it. A number of houses belong to the Indians. These are situated in the Qu'Appelle Valley, but the band in the sum- mer live in their teepees. The irregular and indiscriminate lives of the families result in utter wickedness. DISEASE. Vice and disease are handmaids. As already .said the vices f>f the past two or three generations since the Crees of the plains met the white traders and whiskey selleis are visited upon the children. Diseases of the lungs are veiy common. Hereditary aibuents and the present mode of life conspire to make this more and more the case. The writer in company with the medical man visited Muscowpetung's reserve and was impressed with the necessity of careful medical treatment of this dying race. FOOD. So much has been said about the character of the food given the Indians that on both Pia-pot's and Muscowpetung's re- serves care wa? taken to examine the rations given out. The flour was '• strong bakeis" and was of excellent quality. Beautiful white bread was eaten by the writer made from this tluur. The bacon was of excellent (piality. At times fresh beef takes the place of bacon. Certainly this must le better for the health of the scrofulous natives than salt meat. At the same time the ease of keeping the bacon in hot weather, and the less amount of work both to Indians and officials re- (juired, by the use of preserved meat, aje regarded as giving at times the preference to the bacon. The fat of the bacon is also valued by the Indians in there primitive cookery. The tea was good black tea of average quality. The tobacco seemed of good ({uality, though the writei is not a jue agency ^ce and e ^_,^ S Ss full. He is -r^^^^ Zr^e is Mv. McKmnov, rprrsrrsiana^^-:.;^ connTvy His selection to manage Pia pot ^ ^^^^^^ , ^ thows V confidence -POf ^^-^'^;, hand of ^-1;°^ J'.t and decided man, and V>as ^f^^er a clerk named Marling, be Mr McKinnon is a good o^^^ ■ ^ ji of that name. On l„nart streteh the four reserves inchideJ under the (h-ooked Lakes Agency. The re- serves run for ten or more miles to the south of the river, and are made up of what are familiarly known on the prairie as bluffs. Many lakes of clear, sweet watei are interspersed, and the appearance is not unlike that of a sjreat Engliah |)ark. If the gentle spirit of nature can ever soothe the savage breast it ought to be here. Some fifteen miles north of Broadview sta- tion, on the C.P.R., we came suddenly on the encampment of a great Cree chief. KA-KEE-WIST-A-HAVV. Hi.s ^og-house and outbuildings are on rising ground, and are surro'iMded by a good crop of wheat and potatoes. But in the summer, according to custom, an encampment is made on the lower ground beside the lake, and we are fortunate to day for the chief is at home. The d^y is warm, and apart from his tent, sitting in the shade of a cluster of poplar branches thrust in the earth, and on a largo white robe of dressed ox skin, sits the patriarch of seventy summers. As our party approaches he rises and salutes us with the ordinaj-y " How ! " He is above six feet in height, and still straight as an arrow ; has a good face of the ordinary Cree cast, ears pierced, hair long, and is fairly well dressed in Indian fashion. He is one of the four Northwestern chiefs taken by Col. McDonald to witness the unveiling of Brant's statue at Brantford last year. But " Flying-in-a-circle," for so his name means, is of distinguished descent. His grandfather was a Cree chief of great mark. He was of such gigantic stature and great prowess that he bore the name among the Indians of the plains of " The Eagle that s'ts were he pleases." He was known as the " Ostenguide " by the traders. He is most celebrated to us as the great Cree chief who signed the treaty with Lord Selkirk at Red River in isr<. Anyone looking up the treaty as given in " Morris's Indian Treaties," will tind his name there as Mache-Mkeosab, or as " Le Sonnant." Among the Indians as well as whites it will be seen that " blood tells." But " Flying-in-a-circle " having been limited in his tiight, must now get a "pass" when he wishes to leave the agency ; he has settled down with his people to be farmers instead of buffalo hunters ; and his band now comprises lf)6 souls. But we must hasten on northeast 1 ;n the valley of Qu'- • , Some ten mUes away, and m the y of this point, ^ome Anv)cUe, wc meet '^l^' OO.CH.V-.-.-WK-V.-. ^^^^ ^^^,^^^^ The si.-nmcani nau.e. of *'%:tN is 'stviUc-hun-m-the^ S ;*V:iS not b. --'^i^'Jd'tl.e cWicr, who wo,. a„ , 1 «t nvesmt 11" chieftain, Thi^ band nnmbcvs ir.S, •^»'' J^^;;^,^; lo. All accounts go his eves, aie Miuu ..Mvnon ot tlie wm* +i,p meat Child's desire to know the u . occasions, ot ^^'^f^^^ • fi. him to service on ^•^^^^ ,f uu detennination to but did not sec O 8""^^ ^' ,1^0 ibosc ot an ^'''''^''-i ""==^u.,l, ^mmm ^^''^^ SAK-I-MAY, .0 1 OS souls. Thus on the re- or mosquito. On this reserve are 103 — 57- serves are living 778 Iiuiiaiis in all. Tliey almost all live in houses. Those houses are distrihnted through the reserves and are perhaps half a mile apart. Some of them along with the farms are in the valleys, others of the newer farms and hoiises are on the prairie level or "bench" as it is called. During the winter the people keep largely to the valley, for there imwh of their hay is cut, and the neigliborhood seems most pleasing to them. FARMS AND OAHDBINS. The groat object of the Government is to turn the Indiana of the prairies into farmers. Amidst many ditticidties it must be said from a survey of these reserves that the work is ad- vancing. Uxen anX ^.00^' «- ^-"^f '^fl^t ^n'\ the o. > ^ . ^;^' excellent ^-^M^^^ation M^; ^^ niounted y\,A man :.i»d bas an ^^^^. ^^^^^^^ yea s ni tm of sn.itbs binise ■ Ib^ ^^^^^ ^^^^. Ottawa. He ba^ no n voun\, son of AicliiliaM Macilonald, of (ih^rKtoc, wliom all aH^uaiiitcil witli l\w SclUirk cohuiy will nniiombijr was ono of Lord Sclixiik's most trusted UL,'(nits, and wroto a pampldi't with an account of one of the expeditions. After forty years of service in tin- Hudson's lifiy ('oni|)any lie settled at St. Andrews, on tlie f)ttawa, in Lower Canada. Al- thouyli wo found (.'ol. Macdonald's ^food wife away on a visit to the East, the Colonel lives at the aueney in j^oed old Hudson's Bay Company style. Me understands the Indians thoroughly, is very anxious for the inij)roveinent of the Indians in all respects, is a jjjood fricMid to the missionary and the teaehi-r. and possesses the eouHdenee of old and y undei" the supervi- sion of agent Lash, and the (/rookelace from one band to another. The treaty payuients also have develo])ed cases of fraud amonjx the Indians. Tt is found that soine bands liave been claiming numV)ers in some cases ten or twelve per rent hiirher than the actual numbers of the band. Indians are said to have iione so far as to lend children to one another, on whom to draw treaty money. Under these cncumstances, perhaps unavoidable, it will be seen that to draw general con- clusions from the figures of the blut books is (juite valueless. The change from their mode of life, their fondness for un- wholesome fotul, their filth, disease and degratlation, are in the opinion of tl)ose most capable of Judging, resulting in the ra])id diinunition of our Northwestern Indians. That a ])oint may he reached where the diminished remainder, christianized and civilized, may, unst cases when their owners went into th(» teepees tor the summer. The chief's house was as iari^e and well arranged as an ordinary half-breed house on the Red River. We unrolled a caicfully fastened package to find it a diploma from the Colonial Exhibition to the chief for farm s]>e<;iinens forwarded from this reserve First prize show tickets — a handful of them -for various articles given by the locfil agricultural societies showed that (Hiiof Jack is en- terprising. The wife of the former teache)-, Mrs. Scott, taught the Indian women a number of useful arts. We saw excellent bread — whitf and sweet — baked by the Indian women them- selves. In one of the houses a commodious brick oven has been built and this is freely used by the several fannlies in their baking. Butter is also made by the more thrifty of the women. KNITTINC;. The most remakable feature of an industrial kind on tliis reserve is the large amount o( knitting done. Indeed for the last year a sort of knitting epidemic has been upon the re- serve. Like their Sioux relations, the Assiniboines are more easily taught industrial arts thin the Crees. Old visitors to Portage la Prairie will remember how expert with the axe, the hoe. and in general housework the Indian women can be- come. But the knitting tendencies of these Assiniboines are phenomenal. Evcm the "braves," deprived of their accustom- ed joui-ney on the "warpath." have settled down to knitting. Tile contract for supplying the industrial schools throughout the territories witli inits and gloves was this year given to this leserve. VVe saw about a bushel and a half of mits and gloves all knitted by these Indians, in the hands of Mrs. Grant, the agent's wife. Tli(!V were of evei'V varietv of color and size. In some cases the gloves had the fiuirers well foi'ined, and all that seems necessary for the Oovernment to do is to furnish the pattein, and the work will be done. In some cases we saw yarn being used of a liright red color, dyed by the women by the help of the roots of plants found by them on the prai- rie. The (jrovernment buys the mits and gloves at the rate of twenty-five cents a pair. Stockings and scarfs of somewhat com{)licated structure are also being made by these expert Assiniboines. Al and ditkj H daj ineni -67 — ."nfevon.blo-t„ CZ: ir ''""'' '■» ""■'"'What objoctcl t„ „ tli>.-i reserve there are •:>-,()''' "'■" "" ''"^ 'vcsteni tri,? . " -'P. m..ie „p a. fi I .,;;". "^{;';;"; ii">' '^'"k.n, an " J; ,„, ;! toes 47 fjii.nJr^ o- '^neat 77 oaf,^ •>•> i„ i ^ . ""<»ei very w^l " "'"^ •'•'• »'™'-^. ^'-lon'^'f, ^^'^i' ,' 1'"*- "^ CI ops JookecJ OATTF V 'a*oTore^:r:,'::t'e'ii^:t'.,''^^i'"''''■•»- •'« .-t see,., to 'luiiioei., on the resorvo • R i .'^- "-''e follow nr aiv the use of fk,> i "->^ive. rJe Onoin.r f,^ n ^ '*'*^ u.'st. or the band). o\en 71 k n . "' '^'•^vernrnent rfoi- ^'':j---"-4o::„'^':;;V'-^,tee^^;:f£ tl^^s Tan "/Ife^rebd^ '"eservcs yet visited belonged to '•yarded the loya v oftZ'\ T^"^ ^>^^^ ^''^^ (^ove"n o't a few sheen 7'j> j ^^'^ ^"'^ h s band hu f J.^ ""^ On « , "^^f^^- ^"e sheep have th.iua^ i -^ *''^ present of l ^yei bnilt a fine enclosure \ntTl i f/'^ ^"'^'^"'^ ^ave, how- Hght, and even at noo / '',"'' ^^'^ '^^^^^I* ^^^ «ln en at Afte sheep are in excellent health v. '^' *^^'«'^ «'• wolves «vvn on the reserve, andTt 1 to h T J^'>^''^^> ''^J'! the^r large numbers of poultry ar^ kept ''"''' ''^ '''' "-"^^ thai . , '^HE SCHOOL. 'l'K,ns ,,(• villia.e life a,'e„ " '^.v I'^IT f'"^'/,'"'™' ''''"■ <•" "- a "ay school than on the , t, ., , ' ''"' ""^ ''aming on of >"en,bere,l. we stated it wis ,,;! •',?"■ ''"'■'•'■' '» «-i" be re- was imposs.hle t" n.ake it successful G8 — Tliis l^and lias only lieen five oi- six ycnrs settled lieiu^ the ehililreii ai'e ((niek-teinju'ied and suspicious, and, ac-Cdi'dinrij to Indian custom, anythinu' like severe disi'ipline will he at once resented. Our jiarty visited the school. Jt has oidy been a year and a halt' in operation. Its jtresent teacliei- is AIi-. Jnhn McLean, who is a capable teacher (if lind class i^rade in Mani- tol •a. Tl lere are o ") scholars on the roll. The averai^i^ atten- dance for th(! last (juarter was J 2. On the day oi" our visit there were 14 present. For the time of berry picking and UardeniiiLj this is not a bad attendant^'. We heard the hiuhesi class of two ptipils recite. One of them, a Sioux boy of 12 oi' li, read an 1 spelt very faiily. Tlie present teacher has l»een foi more than half a vear in charLre, and is obtaining; an in- sight into the ways of the Indian. OFFICIALS. Ml'. \V. S. Grant, the Indian agent, was, as already said, away from home. From tiKjuiry, we I'ound him to be a capable man. having considerable know I iiice iheii setth nieiit. W e iciMMKkd hini that we understood it was the Gox-ernmeiit policy that all olHcials .should lu! married men. H( ackiiowlede-ed that he had le- ceived such information from his siij)eriors. It is the writer'.s opinion tlw-t this should be rigidly in.si.'Hted ujion. Another eniployee on the resei\(! as farm assistant we did not see, but he is a married man. Hour, i)oik and other W al e made the usual examination ( ,f overnment su])plies given out as rations, etc., and can speak most favorably of them. .sc ku of a H fell/;-, acre.s foUUi and a "f /an bljsi) Heio a.s he l\ ©^"" 'I'^-ici; THE IV "iE OJIBW IVQ OTT ;;-' •■' "till la,,,,\;/-;.^; ■; --ij vcJ elK.n, ■scMial years h,!ihyo oImksm, p,.:. .. I"; '"'' »■ nuVsi„n. — 70- Creos near Fort (yarloton. Tliu mission j)reniises and the In- dian reserve are two or tlnve niiies up the valley from the bend where the river is first reaehod. Throiigli the midst of the valley luns the Little Saskatehuwan, or Ra|)id Ilivei-, over a pebbly bottt)in. It is a mountain stream risin;^ in the Kidinyf Mountains ; its watei- is eiear, eool and refreshing. In this ])art of the valley is a vast expanse of grass, being made by the Indians into hay. On the fmtlier side the banks are lieavily wooded by the ordinary trees of the eountry, though at ))laees ' aces o tl i tires of last year are seen. Within an easy eonii> • < ; . h^n suj)plieil the trio foi supply of tlu' wants of man n\u >M:hy' -wood, water and hay. As we go up the valley e.vtpi> f Mi-ilding sites aj»pear auiong the bluffs and woods in the vvestei> 'eights, and on approaching one (»1 the most beautiful of these we learn that here is OK.\NASfc:, the mi.ssion hou.se for the reserve. Lying to the north of this along the valley is the Indian resei've. The people are wood Indians rather thati dwellers on the juairie. Tliey are Ojib- ways, and we have seen their race on Georgian Bay and the Manitoulin Islands ; we have met them at Miehipieoten and along the north shore of Lake Superior; we have mingled with them on the Rainy Rivei' and about the Lake of the Wo(jds. It was by coming westward in this course from Saul t Ste. Marie that these Indians got their name among us of Saulteaux. Of course as in all cases west of Winnipeg there is a (Jree intermixture with the Ojibways. The band is said to numl)er •i;')."), but this seems to include a number of hunting families, which still roam through the unoccupied country to the north, and now an fannly suiname. Aecoidingly on the reserve the diffi- culty is as great as the endless repetition of Mackenzies and Macdonalds in a Highland settlement. Ethnologists who make .so nuich of nanies are warned to be on their guard here. The missionary's assistant bears the family designation, and retains the name, (Jeorge Bone, which the writer saw him re- ceive on his baptism ten years ago in Knox church, Winnipeg. To the family of the cl tf — 71 — CHIEF KK-SHE-KEW-E-NIW or Sky Man, has boon <,'ivcn tlio lionorod nanio of Burns. Anothor family of tlio Bones are now known as Uos: We met another youn^^ man named Oeori^'e bMott, and so on. The (^liief is a line h)okin<^ man, and is one of the last to -vjeive C'liristianit}', thoun;h his wife and twelve eliildren art sent rogularly hy him to cliuicli, and hisyonnLjor ehildren to sciiool. We visited Sky Man's lioiise antl I'ound it a suhstantial log liouse 18x22 ft., the roof and gavels well shingled, and this all done in a workmanlike manner l»y the Indians themselves. This is the new honse ; besiile it stood the foinier house of about equal si/»i and still in good repair, which will be used as a kitchen. The house is two stories hii^h, and both i^round ai-'d first tloors are well finished wit^' good lumber. A field of grain of some five or six acres w, iu* r by, but the Indians are moving their farms uj) on tli > * b • .^h, " i. e., the hillio|).s above the valley, the ground beir^ «ore fertile, and the grain ripening earlier. According to i..iii a custom the hou.ses are almost all empty at this season, .ina ohc sunnuer is passed in the teepee or tent erected along K>, ^he hou.se, or in a camp in the middle of the re.sei-ve. As \ . irove through to the upper side of the reserve, the farm was reached of ing to Iter lese tAiC led 1" U- md /ho icve. land re- ipe Mr. A FIRST CLASS INDIAN FAUMER. The owner was away from homo, being enoam))ed with his familv alongside the meadow whore wo .saw him. making stacks of hay. His hou.se is 20x18 feet, with an addition of the same size nearly finished. The buildings are of log, with well shingled roofs, and all done by Indian labor. On looking within they were seen to be plainly, but well furnished. A cooking stove, liox stove, tables, cupboard and dishes were all there. A short distance from tlu; house arc the stables and sheds of this careful farmer. His im])lenjonts are well pro- tected under cover ; he owns a mower ; we saw two pairs of sleds for winter use, made by the farmer himself The farm consisted of 150 acres under crop, of oats, barley, potatoes and turnips, with a good garden. Here the Indian farmer is seen without the stinudus of the farm instructor. The large amount of hay already in stack shows that cattle and horses abound on the reserve. TI>o cattle are the product of two cows given some yeai-s age by the Government to the reserve. Several pairs of oxen have also been provided by the Govern- 72 'iifiit. Drill"' dt'Niroiis (tf siiitu.iii'' tlic <'(»n(litioM id' (lie In- • liaiis, tlic iiiissi()iiar,v liad iii.uli' mrjiii^cnu'iits for AN INDIAN MKKTINC ill tlir I'liurcli to i^ivot tin; visitors. Tlic i-liiir(;li is a neat, imililiiii;" cajialtli' of lioliliii^^' 7<* oii linir own iii(»ti"»M, in tlic al»- SL'iUH' ot'tJK! uiivsi(»ii ,rv, ti'c't'tc I aroiiiid il. a snlistantial jtaliii.;', wit.ii ^ati's, |)i'('.soiitiii_i'' a ik at n.|i|iiaraur('\('iiti'(l ;i, iiiiiMijcr ot" the iii"n I.ciiii; jiicst'iit, the aii- (lit'i.cc, wliici! iiirliKJcd a few \viiit> s, niiinlicrrd lictwccii ."»0 and (it>, and l»iit fur tlic liiisv sea>(»ii woidd Imnc (.''»utaiiu'd twenty iikmc 'n !<■ sjiii^in^- at tile scr\iee was in liid lan. It was ins|»irinL,' to li>. An address was Mi\en lll^ou^dl the niis.^ionarv as in t''i-[iivter. which was ivciixcd with attention. It was with satisfaction the dusky audience heard their conditio!! oni- pared with that of the Crees and Assinilioines. who had lately- been visited, and that the white man ha- the late liiid relKdllon. At tiie close, the In>uld l»e seen in an} 1 b KnL;'iish-s)te:iking congregation in the CMiintry DUKSS AND AITKAHAN'OK. It IS We II 1 iiown that christianitN' cli;inues tiie lieatlh n and makes them sit '-clothed and in tle-ir riuht mind." The Pa- gan Indian c!in'_:>> to his blaid\et as a mark uf iiis iieatlienisi n. iiih 1 11 fiis(\s to cut his hail. \\r did jiot see ail Indin, n wefir- inuf a bhinket on this reserM Mi wonu.'n and children W(!re all well drivssed. The Indian women make their own (doth- ing and are good knitter^ and workei's. ( in a|)]iroaching the church tin women had nvei' theii heads the black shawl so coninion, especifilly anio;,:; the t'lvnch half-breeds, but in the church s;it *vith uncovered hea"i 'I'n • 'HI w.JI '.->" ' J"' ( "' rc.-lrli,.,- io\- IS *''■ a niiiiil ••"aivictci- of lie I'a.sf '•f <»f tl {''■ai'tor (I),., "''".of the chi!,l l!'*"'f "'"(he hjMHl (II "• '"''^i'lnit chiM '■*•'> t,» iittciul '■ uci-i '"'!• iias (i-i (he,. tend '"" to th." I / n tl '■''H s(MMiis /; *isciiit nl "' ''"n. u'iih nil''. '»o;n'(|iii, ""•'> 'i""iro,.hlV;,| "' J'KVMis (./a,!, "^\aiicr, Afr. I, J) '"■"i,<( last ast ;i;i. aiM "'"'"" "^a /riojHJ '•/■(•hiM,-, ■S( ilool 'Vsfri winttM- I'P'T (o fh IM. aji in- fo soiiK'thin )S(. <'!llMl-,.„ .,f. iVIl hut " ^''^a.loj.t,.,! i,i f, - ''Ppi-oMehlnM- th '*' """•<' <'\t(ii(i.v| \v'a/i.lo,i„o- rami] >i|>"n|. school Tl '»"th Juissio, ''■'''P'''iiii<.|,t. ij,,t Wo 1 K caiv. t|,<,, I'-y .•ii„j t,..if.j '' I'Hsc of '1 MlltJliH'l- '^'•^. and the t ^^■<'t-'>i this I '•''•«'''^ in iavor ,,,f 'tt ''■^'■'•vos, ofu-hici '■^^"'•v, with it> I' ai'i (list; edi f ^^!"" -^' Mioso hn,;,! pfitiniitv of i>oc)i s'.'omo- th ,V one that It h ^•aii result '' S( tl le liioadv inaJe t.) tl hool ihl; :"'•" \vo shall '""f '<>.''l,ihl,v.„ of as was "I'oiii a ;'<'nci-al nor |.r, iiiiscs "1 the m '""."''^Vs W(. ha,l '■('If II J UlOVi tl peojtl Th ^tea.l ••p'"''atio/i. |>,.f 110 Ol). y and lel '''■'•'ice has lav V ' i '."-'"^ "^'fJ"" '•i.urel I , 1 ^^ ^^"'u-acter of H' rcst'M.., tiiouo-l ^^ ^'"'^ ••^-p-Mahio i^;;r'!^ ^^^ ^^'' t'"^-. -n ■ ' "ot a case ol'poJ '■"^^'"•r than tl 1 as i> I ere is I it;t'xce|)ti,.n in tl ^^'•■'^^•'•'^^•''"••iofnodi'tmJ, ^t'Jiiiess on tl ^'"M\vn, polv'wa i«' J)COJ)l Vi^^ana- n ' ;^"i>'at o are |»on •".V IS the in?,. y ^■isited. XI ^" iesei-ve. Th,. .list le inc(. — 7t - from any lart;*' liiisiin'Hs neMtn* is a point in favor of any In- dian Ht'ttlt'uu'nt. Tin: VKTKIIAN MlSSIoNAUY. TIr! niissionaiy, Kov. (Jfort;;*' FN'tt, is woU known to nmny readcrH. His wifi- is tin' last sniviv(»i' of ti»o cliildirn of tlio lat«f Jatnes Ross, wlioso family lias In-on on<^ of tlw most in- Hiifntial of till' old Hod Kivt-r families. lioth tlw missionary afiy Mr. Coldwell in the Winnipi'g Frvf Ptrss Mr. Flett was seen to have heen a man of action. The In- dian, to have inHuonee anjong his jx'ople, must ho an orator. From ditfeiont s(jimcos the wiiter has Inanl that the mission- aiy Flett is ready in argument or deliut(\ for Pia-pot or any of them. All instance of this was seen two years ago at the tinu! of the roliellion. Mr. Klett was for six weeks among the Fort Pelly Indians keeping them (piiet. One tnciiing the news came that the rehels had drivi'ii the English troctps back, and the stor\ was in the most exag<;erated form. One ol the chief's .sons gave the war-whoop, and cried out, " Our pooplo iiave con(p»eroil the Knglish soldiers," and jiropose*! to go on the war ])atli. The missionary rushed to tho front and said " What simpleton gave tho war-whoop ^ Who will he f(»ol enough to go against the FiUglisli ^ Why, the English, if one party is killed, will send in an(>ther, and if these fall, another; they will swarm in ujxm yai. And they don't need to be in a hurry. They can seize the pa.sses, keej) out any food, ami, without shooting one of you, starve you to death like rats. The}' have food and powder. They can wait till you are all dead and never tire a shot." And, so on. with his native elo- quence the loyal missionaiy was listened to rather than the tiery braves. The missionary's wife is heljier of her husband in translating the psalms and hymns, in leading the singing, and showing the Indian women the arts of civilization. The advanced state of these Indians ha.s been gained with NO FARM INSTKUCTORS. The missionary has been interpreter, farm instructor, and fore- man in building opeiations. The father of the missionary was an old Orkney settler on the Red River half a mile nortli of tli Jul re I. I Us Tl did •sc/ii Jim] ;:;, ;??'^vay tra.k in VV < •) •-•••-tH.r:i:' ;';:;'•!;'- ('"''a.i ■^JX soils Ml t\ '/'"^''ofthM/rt "IN Jllowinir i\ 'in. I ,,M "' t'"' "M ^\,^y^ ,, '»»»« with M 'A rii.-ir ,si\ |M.|t '" 'HlN.si, Jiftiy IIMtci'Ii « . '" liri.S /ll«^"'-«,,,,o,.ti„. Tl.. ' . ^^'"'Ii liav,. I •Mllcl years wint (T V" "iNalnal.l •'Mt hir l)ijt '" I'-i'M'-n/iMu- trn.l no ( t,. til ;■«' Ni Tl„. ,.| >(','ri Id* ">v;oniii„.„t viii |ti'n|(| 'I'plic.s or,.|ot) I'MVI). '■ in til Co IMIL'' I aiKJ '■ '''""'"ilwiv,! tliat I ft'"i Dnrl^ Mo ' <'"•"•' so cl ''iilf'al,. I lani "n tains t r"''.V is till, ';;' fori, lif irii! iri'oi ^'•■' «» nirtw'::: 1 '!:■'''■'-- 1.- Coills,.. f,, in'' 'n' -■■"-■» ■•.. the,-,. ..« . fe'ai.K.,1 i„ e, , : l'^ '"'■"'»'^«y c.»^„•„c.e, , ,; i- ,"' "''>»'. the ;-ide,„.e ".■uiuZt ,,,,. ;i,,r,:''f ■• 'lis'' i"ii i» thJ ,t ui: ; -^ lia.s a c„„si,leml,lc t,,.-, ;" , , f l,'^'' '»'''™t of the , i„t ■ 't t "11 to.sti^.,. ooca.i„„,s its ,na . ' 1 ''' 2 ""? »'a'n'm,„ „),:,.| n-s, ■• Sic. t,.a,„rt «l,„.i M^,*' ' 'V:,";','"'" "f ''«^o"o,l g :^ : /S — mile from town. Rmmiiii; tliroiii,'li the valloy is tliu small stream, l>ut here spread out into a fine sheet of water, reliev- ini^ tlie scene and serving the useful purpose of driving the mill, which soon will be hard at work in grinding the abund- ant iirain of Hirtle district. 8i>ine of the buildings of the town are of stone, l)Ut most are wooden, and in some eases attention has been paid to tasteful ornamentation. 'I'wo oi- three neat, newly-tinished chunrhes give some indication of the h(»pes of the town, while half a mile down the valhjy is the public school building of some size, whose location shows a desiie to give the rising generation j)lenty of excj'cise in reaching it. Hirtle has a numl)er oi" very energetic and enterprising inhab- itants and they are justly proud of the town and its vicinity. But we have a g'.od journey before us to-ilay, and so, under the kind LTuidance of Rev. W. Hodnett, who is an old inhabi- taut of the district, we are soon on the way for some ten or twelve miles to the lURD-TAlL SIOLX UESEHVE. The herbage is most luxuriant ; the bluffs give a park-like appciiranc" to the scene; we pass tlic Blcidieim school house, a dark painted and somewhat uncommon looking building, which a local liishman described as the educational "simitery" of the locality, and amid ripe wheat fields reach a beautiful sheet of water known as " Hoopei-'s Lake." This is a large lake of sweet water, and as we I'cfresh our ' Ilosinante" from its waters we see the fine sandy l)each covered with a irreat variety of pebbles, contrasting with the nnry margin of reeds so Common in the prairie pojids anate in the mountain (lew. Here is laid out a reserve of about one-third of a township for the band of til hi ci o| (!\j "' til m,'l mj — 70 - re SIOUX UEFUGEKS. The Sioux, or Dakota In|)earanc'e, and in tlieir C(>iif""deiae\' Ohi'istian mission- aries beiian work aiiionu them in Minnesota in 18.S5, and a ('oiisiderable number of tliem were cliristianized. They were, liowever, so savai^o as to have received the name " Tiujers of the ])hiins," and many a eontliet between tliem and the Red River luilf-breeds proved tlie title a true one. The American (!overnment did not keep taith with their Indian wardi>, and in IS02 tlie terrilde outbreak, known as the " Minnesota Ma«- saere," took )>laee, in wliich many whites were murdered, and settlement cheeked in that State for ten years. The writer remembers seein:^' in IS71 settlors' houses antl enclosures in Minnesota lying as they had l)een left in the year of the mas- sacH! of theii owntMs. After the su)>|)ression of the t)Utl)reak a nund)er of die Sioux tied into British teiritory. Much ne- gotiation took place between the Hudson's Hay Company authorities in Red River aii. They arc chietly found at Oak River, Moose Jaw, Prince Albert, Fort Qu'Appelle, Tui'tle Mountaitis and Portage la Prairie, and on the Bii-d Tail ieser\<; we are de.sciibing. In I.S7+ treaties were made with the tiist name(l and last named bands anil in later years with others, at least so far as granting them reserves, but no annuity is paid the Sioux band. The |)opulation of this l^ird Tail reserve is l.S'). ami the Sinux possess '27 log houses and 'J !• barns and stable.-^. \Vc on the I'cserve. Thci growth of sheep is perhaps ont; of the best indications of |)r()- gre.ss of an Indian band. The shoei) need cai'O and reijuire pio- tection from prairie wolvcjs and the innumerable dogs that in- fest an Indian sett!em(mt. The product of the sheep can be • !lilize(' in many way.s. The large flock of this reserve destroys what u.sed to be a treasured belief of the western plains that .sheep could not be n ared in the Northwest It is a sugges- llv- ci;.'cui.j>tance, which no doubt the watchful ethnolon to their church, and are exceedingly fond ol .sacred music. A young Sioux named Thunder, now employed in the Indian office. Birtle, who has been away at school and has learned to play the organ, makes his journey every week to the reserve to lend his aid. The minist(>r of the reserve is llev. Solomon Tunka.saiyice, a pure Dakota, ordained in the United States. H(; cannot speak Knglish well, i)ut is an adept in his own tongue. Solomon of the unpronounceable name makes oc- casional jdurneys t(» the wandering bands of his countrvmen at Moose Jaw and Portage la Prairie. In his absence several of the eldei's can lead the service, and at present a young stu- dent of Manitoba College, Mr. MacMlonaUl makes a fortnightly visit to the reserve and speaks through an interpreter. Solo- mon, the minister, had but returned before our visit, and is not in good health. KDUCATION. The school is under the care of Mr. Ru years has been on th.! reserve, and is n(»\ in the Sioux lanids the inereast' of officials beyond the pn;- stuit staff. But it must nevertheless be said that unli'ss the In- dian can 1)0 kept on liis re.servc; there is little hoj)e of civilizing or christianizing him. Mr. Markle has a good rt^putation in the l»irtle district, and seeuis obliging and painstaking. rs THK INDIAN DYINC OKF ? Tills agency seems to supply some facts on tliis (piestion. Of the eleven bands in the agency three have increa.sed veiy slightly during the past year, the total being 13 of an increase. Six have decreased seriously, making a total of {]'). Three bantls have ijeen stationary. Now this is on a total of som«.' l,7!)() Indians, so that, on the whole, of the eleven bands there is a deci-e.ise in jfopulation of about 8 per cent in a single year. Even the civilized Sioux of tlie Bird-tail reserve have decreased 'J;'j per cent. As formerly noted t);- I'e is in these statistic-^ a disturbing element in the fact that changes take j>Iace from one reserve to anothei", yet taking the arcva of a whoh- agency the error is nrobablv very slii^lit. The Sioux do not seem to be a robust race, and are like the Assiniboines of Indian Head in their tendency to fail before the white man. But in a number of the bands there is no ditticulty in finding out the cause. Immorality lies at the loot of the evil. In the i>an wliich an- used in all parts of (nn wide pi-airics. Tl)(' name is pro! alily ^nit tVoin the " sliaj.,''*,fanapipi, " or tonsil home niaile Icatlicr used in luii-ncssinin tiiese ponies. Hut for tardiness, triekiness insmsibiliti aid ob.stinaey not even the pro\'ei-l>i}i,l donkey can surpass a ' sha;.;:^'anappi. " 'J'he pony lias sti-ani^e ha'»its. In starting;', a ' l»alkin^' experienee is quite eommon willi liini ; the suiiil like motion llien indnleey thoise who know to be en<-ased <)n the w hip ^ide ni cast iron — In; is certainly a pachydeiiu. When ;i ' s|ou;.di"' or swamp is heinj^ (;rossed the pony otten lie> down m the mud for his own de- lectation and to the di.s^iist of the driver. When remonstrated with vile pony is exceedingly ill-tempered, and will often strike with his front foot an unexptM'tctl l»ltiw. So with driver armed with a dangerous looking whip the writer slartewn the pi-inciples to he oh.served, and imniediatidy began to lay on the whip \igorou.^ly, Ij. the sti-ep hanks of the romantic Qu'Appt He w.' painlully stiose, and songht to make our 'JO miles Ixdbre dark. Tlu! helahoring which the i)onv received was terril>le. I'Atrvthing. however, tailed to increase the sjieeil, above four miles an hour. At length the reserves were reached, and the writi-r accepted the hospitality of the a^'ent, whose wife was an ohl aciiuaintanee. ._ M _ TIIK IMI.K IIH.I.S ItKSKUVATIONS lie 40 milt's tu tin- north «)f tlic ( '. P. II., and nvc roaclicd by staitii".^ from (^iiAinttdle station, wliicli is ."»12 miles west of Winnipt'ij;. Tlie reserves arc tour m numlu!!', and form a block made-uj> of four |»aralle'oij;rams. Tiic linbans liere arc |»lain (Jrees, wiio ai'c bcinj^ domesticated slowly, and tliou;j[li tiiey are learnini; much seem rather wild and intractable. Durinj"' the lliel rebellion thesi? Indians wcie a source of great anxiety to the (loveinnient and were |)robably vciy n(.'ai revolt, though along the very line of nuuch of the troops from Qu'Appelle to K itoche. The foui- i-eserves liear the nauji^ of their cliiefs — IVMfpeekesi s, Star Hlankct, Little Ulack Hear, and Okanest; — the last named beinu absent at Turtle Mountain at the time of (tur visit. The condition of the ci'o))s and of the herds of cattle and the innnber ol" the horses were nuKth the same as those in the other reserves. Next morning aftei' arrival we were soon abroad to the school, winch had an earlier session than usual that we might see it. Nine sc^holars apj)eared and were j)Ut thr(»ugh their exercises b}- Mr. Toms, the teacher. ( )in- sia}' was too hurried to ascertain the ordinary condition of the scho(»l. .Ml'. Toms seemed doitij;; his best under rather discoui aging circumstan(;es. TJje V)ands are widely scattered, and to a large luimher of the children it is an impossihility to reach the uld somewhat disgust the lesthetie soul. No sooner had tbe animal l»een slaughtered tlian the carcase was di»'ided up o W '^ 1 So aiiioiij;- tlie four bands in |ii(i|i»iitioii t<» tlioii- iininbers. tluMe was sorn)W in one baiul tor lint STAIt III.ANKKI' (Jor N(».\K. As \v«' returned tVoni (.\\v nn)rniii<;' educational tri|» we saw beinj^ carried in a uliccii»an(»w into tlie storelionse the portion for this disaj>|)ttinti'd hand. Mr. Aufont \Vri«^ht, who liad l)een a|)j>ointed to tlie position hut a tew we(dy the new ML;ent to |ilouuh tire luakes ai(»und the stacks of hay his hand hud made, as prairie tires werf beLfiinun^ to appear. 'I'his work the chief had evaded. Due notice had been <,dven the day be- fore that ' No work, no food" must be the motto. Star Blanket is a dariiiL;", ^eif-contidesit fellow, evi lently ready at uny time foi- a ft^dit. it was plaiidy a trial of sti"en;(th with the new aincnt to .sec who would lule on the resei'ves. Ilun<^ry and sulky Indians with their .s(piaws and papooses were han^'ing about, sutferintf lor Star lllaidvet's obstinacy. The word was passetl around soon that \ l'()\V-W()\V would be held in tlu^ ottice The writer was made a sort of honorary memhei' of the court and sat at one side of the table with the aL!;ent and clerk. Thirty or so of the chief men of the four baiitls ciowded the otHce, and most of tluuu .scjuatted on the tloo)-. Facing the tribunal, among the Indians, sat the (dd half-lneed interpietei'. The Indians were invited to speak. An aired salit'y- ing ditlerent kind ot oratory, were to the point and well \- saying, " Some of ih wUt go home without anything to eat to-day." Furtlier Reference was made to the — .SMtat(n's wen* yet ready. A i^rnor- al statt'incut was li.izaidiMl rluU 'ast wiiitrr sdnn- cliililirii aii*l old jx'ojilc of tii(> band lind fatiiislii'd for want o| food, lir \\>- latcd N|t».H*ifi«' inslMnet's wlu'ii tlic " loni,^ Jind difiry winter" liad |)n»ve«l too nuicli f(»i' the w'oin»'n. and refilled with jiath- otic ardor to th(.' ^ood days wiicn the Imttaio were Mack ii|ion the plains, and tiie Indians were contented Kveiy allusion to the iH'ed of food found a most feeling;' res|Mi!i,se Ironi an n^ly, ratlier eraftv looUiny;, old Indian, who, we leariK d, was the leadinfjf spirit of the ho^'^in^ Itrij^^ade. Star l^>la!di a pai'a^raph. It was cpiite ])lain that this sort ol speech mi^ht lie made alter the model of tl le sonir witl 1 a tl 1 on. sail (I verses. in repiv to all \\\h " Morris's Indian Treaties ' was turned up and the treaty read. It was pointi'd out tliat tlie (government had three times over exceeded the jiromise of the treaty. i^>ut each was, of course, of Ids own opinion still. T!1K DIFFICULTY was at lenijth solved by the cliiefa<;reein«j to have tlie lire brake-'^ pIo!ii,died around tlio stack.s. As .soon as tliis should be done, which would not tal-ce more tlian tlnee or four liours for tlie -H7- yoiin;^ iiM'ii to a(;o(>iii|>li>li, tlifii tlic i ct would In; dolivcrcd. Hut tln' rhicf dciiiiiudt'd that lie l>c ulIuwtMl to visit tlm (Jovorinn" at llr;;iiia tn make citnijilaiiit <»( the Iiarslincss of tlu! ai^'t'iit. Hf was informtMl in n-ply that lit! ctiuld liav«? a pass to h'a\t' thi! icsciAc tor that |»iir|io.si' whcurvci h^ waiitcil it. 'I'hus ciidtd, afrn- a stiiini^dc of smiic thi-tf liouis, this atlair. Thr w liter was iniirh im|iit'sMMl with tlie skill and outspok'n- iM'H.s of tlioso jtrairii' «li|tloiiiats. TIIK A(ii;NTS. A snocial o|t|>oituiiity was thus ji^'ivc'n of seeing' tho ditticul- tit's of tht' .Incuts, ami of it'Ucctiiiu' how tr\iii«: the situation must iuivt' I II diiiiii''' the rcludlioii of two vcais a<:o. 'I'ho I'miiiici Ji!4('iit, Mr. Williams, wj»,s hardly su«'('('ssful with tht'S(< Kile Hills Indians. Thf wiitcr, howcvci', lu'vcrsaw him, and simply speaks from hearsay. The present a^t'iit, Mr. W. F. Wri'flit, has been known to the writiM" for sc^veral years. Ho and his amiahle wife will l»e kind to tin; Indians. Several in- stances were ineideiitly coiim upon wdiere in cases of the a^('(l and sick they hail followed out their humane instincts and ;'iven relief Wert; all the inilian a;rents as charitahle and thoULditful ol' their poctr wards as the same people would l»o towards the poor and sufftfrin^ in town and t '. The ain'iits and their families are not merely (Joveniment officials. They may he ani;els of mercy to the unfortunate jierishin;.; redmeii. A^ent \\' rij.jht held his own in the contest witli (piiet firmness an