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NARRATIVE OF THE RED RIVER EXPEDITION. REMARKABLE PRESERVATION FROM DEATH AT SEA. A RIDE TO BABYLON. THE KING OF TRISTAN D'ACUNHA : A FORGOTTEN MONARCH. pro bei ad\ veil iunc VA A c V . Q/v. )\J< C).^/^^ V V their priestly teachers tliouf-ht fit to .i^ive them : taught only the patois whicli passes current theii for French, so that they should be unable to read English papers ; and only just sufficiently well off in that fertile land to enable them to lead a lazy, idk- life. In fine, both Company and priesthood were de- termined to oppose an immigration which would be destructive to the trading monopoly of the one, and to the unquestioned authority of the other. Botli combined in describing the country as unlit for settle- ment ; and (|uite recent^^ a Eoman Catholic bishop, who has long resided in the north-west, published an interesting work upon that country, but full of start- ling statements as to the fearful severity of its climate, and of its general unsuitability for farming purposes. He endeavoured as far as possible to depreciate its value politically, so as to have deterred the Govern- ment of Canada from taking steps towards opening out communication with it. Canada, a thickly-wooded country, only affords n home to settlers after years of toil spent in clearing the land. The western province, now known as Ontario, has long been the go-ahead portion of British Xorth America, whilst that to the east, now called Quebec, was always lethargic, progress being neither known nor desired there. The iidiabitants of these two provinces lying sidf lif. OKT. THE EED RIVER EXPEDITION. 203 ounced froin ppt such a> give theni: lUTeiit theiv ible to read y Avell off ill a lazy, idle ood were de- li would l)e he one, and ther. Lot] I it for settle- lolic bisho]!. ublished an full of start- its climate, ig purposes. ?preciate its ;lie Govern- rds opening ly affords a in clearing known as n of Britisli : now called ing neither i lying side ly side — not even divided by any natural l)Oundary, is England is from France — have always maintained (heir original national characteristics. Those of I^Uiebec evince a contentcdness with their lot in life, and a dislike to change of all sorts, not o:dy as jegards their manners and customs, but even their |)lace of residence ; M'hilst those of Ontario, descended ifrom British ancestors, retain that love for adventure and that spirit of enterprise for which our countrymen ure so generally celebrated. The men of Ontario have always suspected the truth of the statements made regarding the great prairie country which every one knew lay between the Eed River and the Rocky Mountains. For years back their gaze has been fixed upon that territorj', longing for the privilege of planting it with grain, and of establishing themselves in a country where rumour said that luxuriant crops were obtainable without either the labour of clearing it from timber or the cost of manuring it. The distance from Canada was so great, and the intervening difficulties were of such magnitude, that it was practically out of the power of farmers or of the ordinary class of emigrants to make a journey there. Unless, therefore. Government stepped in, and, by opening out roads and improving the almost continuous line of water communication existing l)e- tween Lake Superior and the Lake of the AVoods, enabled the workini-' class to reach Fort Garrv at a 204 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. reasonable cost, the Eecl River country never coiil be settled by British subjects. A few disinterested travellers, such as EnglisL officers on leave, bent on buffalo-hunting, now and then penetrated into this much-aspersed land, anil came back telling of its boundless plains and un- paralleled fertility ; but as it is the English fashicm to pooli-pooh information coming from such source>;, their reports received but little attention. The secret was tolerably well kept for many years ; but at last oO much pressure was put upon the Canadian Government that an exploring expedition was despatched by it in 1858, with orders to report fully upon the resources of the Xorth-AVest Territory. The results of these explorations were published the following year, and the people of Canada learnt, on official authority, that it was fertile beyond the most sanguine expectations. A few settlers from Ontario soon after established themselves in the neighbour- hood of Fort Garry, and so gave birth to a party whose policy was progress, and whose constantly- repeated demand was — " Open out communication between us and Canada ; let us have plenty of emi- grants : all we require is population and facilities for carrying our produce to a market." It was soon known as the " Canadian Party " , and its feeling was disseminated throughout the neighbouring pro- vinces through the columns of a newspaper estab- li PI of di di ce ei se sv fr tl V ^^ a POET. THE RED KIVER EXPEDITIOX. •205 I never eoiiL; 1 as Englisl. ng, now and 2d land, and ains and iiji- iglish fasliidii such sources, 3n. many years ; Lit upon tile g exi^editioii lers to rej^ort 'st Territory, ublished the a learnt, on nd the most rom Ontario neighbour- to a party constantly- munication iity of emi- acilities for "vvas soon its feeling •uring j^ro- iper estab- slied under its auspices at the village of AVinnipeg, 1 the neighbourhood of Fort Garry. I As may easily be understood, this party of progress toon came into collision "svith those alreadv described its bent upon keeping back the country. The result ^vas a very angry feeling between the two sections into which public opinion thus became divided. All the Canadians who had settled there, backed up by the press of Ontario, were on one side, and the great mass of the French-speaking people w^re on the other. This difierence of opinion coincided with difierence of origin, the parties quickly assumed a national aspect, and the priests endeavoured to give it a religious one lilso. ' The Hudson Bay Company, governed by a Board cf Directors in London who were aloof from the direct influence of local feeling, was first of the two divisions comprising the reactionary party to per- ceive that the time had arrived when they must either endeavour to withdraw, with profit to them- selves, from their hitherto obstructive policy, or else submit to see their power to obstruct taken forcibly from them. A disposition on their part to treat for the voluntary surrender of their undefined and dis- Iputed rights soon resulted in the bargain of 1869, by ^ which they were to receive the sum already stated, land retain possession of all their forts and posts, to- Igether with a large acreage of land in their vicinity. 206 TKAVEL, ADVEXTUKE, AND SPOKT. The ^linistry of Canada, backed up by public opinion throughout the country, at once passed a Eill for the establishment of a government in thi^ newly -acquired province. AVe are warned by n French proverb, that the first step in all transaction^ is a most important one : and that taken by tin. Dominion Government towards establishing theii authority was no exception to the rule. Their first direct step was to send forward surveyors to plot out the country into townships ; and this was the actual circumstance that gave rise to the first overt act ot rebellion on the part of the French people there. The men employed upon this service, as well as their assistants and followers, were all either from England or from Ontario. Around these surveyors, as round a centre, were collected a small band of Canadians, who had followed in their wake, hoping to obtain large grants of land and make fortunes when the ne"\v Government was established. The people of the country were thoroughly discon- tented at the cavalier way in which they had been treated, as their will had never been consulted by any of the three parties who had arranged the terms of transfer. A feeling of irritation was abroad, whicli the bearing of the surveyors and other Canadians towards them served to increase beyond measure. ]\Iany of the latter began to stake out farms for them- selves, which they openly declared they meant tc claim as soon as the new Governor had arrived. it Ih te t tl lo bi ci tl: tl Bi tl 111 w tr tl C ^t] I t: t t f 1 poirr. ui> by publif nee i^assed a iment in tlii> warned by a 1 transactioii> taken by tlit. lisliing theii Tlieir first I's to plot out as the actual overt act of people there. well as theii From England ^ors, as round )f Canadians, ng to obtain vhen the ne^v ughly discon- ley had been consulted by ed the terms broad, whicli . ;r Canadians | nd measure. J ms for them- I iy meant io f 1 arrived. I THE KED VdXVM EXPEDITION. 207 The Hudson Bay Company officials residing in the iprritory were loud-spoken in denouncing the bargain fntered into by their Directors in London : they said |t injured them materially, without providing any Compensation for the loss tliey were about to sustain ; that tliey, the working-bees of the hive, were to re- ceive nothing, wliilst the drones of stockholders in England were to get all the honey in the shape of the .£300,000. The English-speaking farmers, although thoroughly loyal, and anxious for annexation to Canada, so as to be delivered from what many called the " thraldom of the Hudson Bay Comi^any," regarded the terms of the transfer in no favourable light. They thought they should have been consulted ; and the injudicious silence of the Canadian Ministry with reference to the form of government to be established, caused anany divisions amongst this party. Although they would have scorned to take part in any actual resis- tance against the establishment of the new order of things, yet they were by no means sorry to see the Ottawa Ministry in difficulties. They considered themselves slighted, and were sulky in consequence. They had no intention of giving themselves any trouble to aid a Government that had not only failed to consult or consider their interests, but had ignored their existence altogether. With the exception, therefore, of the small hand- ful of Canadian adventurers already alluded to, no 1: 208 TKAVEL, ADVENTUKE, AND SPOKT. 1 J OIK.' residing in tlie settlement in 18G9 was pleastd ■with tlio arrangement, and many were loud-spoken in denouncing it. Where such active elements of dis- content existed, it may easily be imagined how simpk- it was to fan the smouldering embers intc^ the flanit' of active rebellion. The previous political history of the country was curious, from the fact of there never liaving been any active government whatever. There was nominally a Governor and a Council, in vhom resided all sovereign powers. A lawyer's clerk had been con- verted into a judge l)y the Hudson Bay Company, and consequently there was an impression abroad, be it true or untrue, that no one could look for impartial justice being done in any case in which that corpora- tion was interested. Tliere was a code of laws, but there was no police, so the rulers had to depend upon a few special constables sworn in from time to time as required, for tlie execution of the law's decree. Upon several occasions the law had been forcibly resisted with success : men condemned to imprison- ment in suits in which the Company was interested had been released from their cells under the walls of Fort Garry by a crowd of sympathising friends, who had assembled for that purpose. Xot many years ago four men had combined together and pro- claimed a republic. One was named president, and two others appointed the princijDal ministers of this liliputian government. Amongst the first acts of Oil f ■ ^M onj it nei frkoii in ncnts of (lis- d linw simplt' nto the flaniL' country was ing been any IS nominally resided all d been con- y Company, ti abroad, be for impartiiil hat corpora- )f laws, but epend upon me to time decree, en forci])ly imprison- in terested the walls ig friends, ^'^ot many r and pro- .ident, and rs of this it acts of lis self-constituted trinity Avas a decree condiMuiiing ' fourth conspirator to deatli. Tliis fourth man l|as a (Jeruian tailor, and as he constituted in his 0Avn person the whole of the poimlation recognising H^ie authority of these xoi-discuit rulers, tliere was no 0ne to carry the sentence into execution. Whether it was owing to the discredit which this jiowerless- ness to enforce their decrees brouglit upon tliem, or from the general loyalty of tlie people to Jhitisli in- ftitutions, we know not ; but this republic was as riiortlived as a butterlly, and its api)earance and dis- ij)pearance caused as little excitement and had as little influence upon the Red Kiver world as would the advent or departure of such an insect. This trifling incident is merely related to convey an idea of tlie state of society which existed there up to 18G8. The people lived in peace and harmony with one another. They paid no taxes, and were so little accustomed to the machinery of a government, or the responsibilities of having to make laws or administer tliem themselves, that when these few adventurers tried to impress upon their minds the glories resulting Irom the exercise of the noble right of self-govern- Jiient, following up their lessons by proclaiming a ^public, the inhabitants of the Red River Territory ^lerely laughed. The only politics which existed — and they were |f recent growth — consisted in being for or against he Hudson Bay Company. A monopoly must al- I 210 TKAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SrOIlT. |i . ,ii ' M po^ c waj^s Ije obnoxious to the innjority, and never cvi. in feudal times lias theni ])een a more rigid one tlui; ^^ that established formerly throughout the great Xovtl. A^ West l)y that corporate body. Xo one else coiil 4' import anything into the country, or send any fiu 0t^|| out of it; and it may 1x5 said that no one coul jji. either buy or sell except from tlui Hudson La officials. Even at this moment the whole of tli inland communications are in its hands, and ii j||i banking arrangements can be made except througi ^ its agents. Notwithstanding the heavy expensi. (]j^, entailed by the conveyance of goods over the grea: fg^i distances that separate the country from civilisation yf\i yet it will always be to many a subject for Avondc firv how it was that the Company generally was not ten coi fold richer. Even since the monopoly of trade wa> ^^it abolished, the Company still practically received ;, gioi percentage m some way or other upon every business foiv transaction that took place. -^it The only export from the country was fur : an i 1 Indian comes to sell skins ; after some bargaining he an agrees to take so much money for them. He is paid |hi in powder, shot, or other goods, which are sold to \(i\ him at a great profit, whilst the purchased articles |u( are exported to Europe, and again sold at a great profit. In this way a double advantage was ob- tained ; and consequently it is very strange that the affairs of the Company have not been for some years back in as flourishing a condition as they might have te lin 5P0KT. THE RED niVER EXPEDITION. 211 iiid never evi rigid one tlui 10 great Xoitl )ne else eon] send any fm no one conL Hudson ]];i wliole of til xnds, and ]i *^cept tlu'oiigi avy ex2U'ns(. 'ver the gren: n eiviJisatioii jt for -vvondc ' was not ten of trade M'a,^ y received ;i ery business was fur: an )argaining hi: He is paid are sold to ased articles I at a great ige was ob- ige that tlie ' some years might have •11. Tliere is only one solution to be arrived at, bicli is, tliat it lias long been very badly served 4d administered abroad. I The enemies of tlie Company were numer\\. autuuin of 18G9, and in ]H'()s<'cutin^' ilu'ir opovatii Mtl frequently ran chain-lines across the farms of m 3J,| whose langua'^e they couM not speak, and w'v of whom they had no feclin*;s in common. \ \\'\n (Jull soon got abroad that the Canadian Government i beii tended i)ossessing themselves of all tlie land fm sistance to the Canadian Government from their altars. !Mr AViUiam ^['Dougall liad heen selected by the Dominion ^Ministry to be the Lieutenant-Governor (>f the newly-acquired province. It was an inju- dicious appointment, as those who knew that gentle- man were aware at the time. He had been for many years in political life, having been previously well known as an able newspaper writer. Indeed, like a large number of men who have held high positions both in Canada and the United States, he may be said to have attained power through his connection with the press. He was known to be an essentially cold-blooded man, entirely wanting in that cordiality which is an indispensable quality with those who have to lead or even to act with others in the direction of atiairs. He had some poli- tical supporters, but he was said to have no friends. There was nothing genial about him, and his manner was said at times to be so unsympathetic that many left his presence accusing him of rudeness. Wo shall not attempt to enter upon Canadian politics — that most uninteresting and least edifying of topics — in order to trace the progress of events which led up to this strange appointment ; suffice it to say that the Ministry which then ruled at Ottawa was a coalition one, the Conservative element being, how- ever, the strongest. The intended Lieutenant-Gover- nor was ^linister of Public Works in that administra- «« 216 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. tion, having been brought over from the Opposition upon certain terms "vvlien the coalition was formed. The Tory element being in the ascendant, and many changes having recently occurred in the ^Ministry, vacant places in it were filled up by the adherents of that party, thereby destroying the proportion or balance between the several parties which it "svas alleged by ]\rr JM'Dougall's clique had been agreed upon when tlie ^Ministry was first formed. This gave rise to dissensions, which the far-sighted policy adopted regarding the Intercolonial Railway afforded many opportunities for widening into such a breach, that it became at last a necessity that ^Ir M'Dougall should cease to be a ^Minister. To have dismissed him would have been fatal, so it was necessary to provide for him. The annexation of Rupert's Land just at that time was most opportune, and to send him there as Lieutenant-Governor was an easy solu- tion of tlic difficulty. What mattered it whether he was fitted for the post or not, as long as he was got rid of without any scandal ! Who cared whether he might or might not be agreeable to the people he was to rule over, and what could it matter whether the wretched half-breed population were pleased or not ! Party politics in Canada must first be attended to ; they were of all - absorljing importance ; and the Xorth-West and its new Lieutenant-Governor must settle their affairs between themselves. Xo attempt was made by the Ottawa Govern- THE KED RIVER EXPEDITION. 21 I iiK'iit to conciliate their newly ac([uired sul»jeets. Tlio Governor appointed by the Hudson liay Cnni- pany, who was to exercise authority until ^Iv ^I'Dou- [;all reaelu'd Fort Garry, was never even comnuini- catt'd Avilh. On(; would liave thought that common civility, if not political tact, would have caused tlie Ottawa ^linistry to have informed him in writing of ^Ir ^['Dougall's appointment, and of the date at M'hich his arrival might be expected ; the old Gov- ernor's co-operation and assistance in establishing the new order of things might, with advantage, have been solicited at the same time. Xo explanations were made as to what was to be the policy of Canada in its dealings with Rupert's Land. In fact, the people of that country were so thoroughly ignored, they were easily led to believe that their material interests would be so also, in favour of the emigrants that rumour and the Canadian surveyors said might shortly be expected to arrive at lied lliver. A little judicious management at first would have secured an amicable settlement, and have frustrated the clerical party, which was desirous of fomenting resistance. A clear statement of what was intended to be done, and a declaration stating, that the rights of property would be respected ; that all those in J>r»/a filayed a minor part in the Canadian rebellion of 1837, when he had actually borne arms against the British Crown — a crime which, in the opinion of some of his po- litical opponents, his subsequent loyalty had not sufficed to wipe out. This tended to prejudice many against him ; for it was considered natural that, having been once himself a rebel, he should sympathise with rebellion wherever he met it. Sir G. Cartier, although a poor del)ater and of no very great ability, 'vvas a creditable specimen of Canadian public men. His greatest enemy dare not question his honesty, for he was still, comparatively speaking, a poor man. He was a firm friend and a good hater. His ordinary promise was more to be relied upon than the oath of many of his contem- poraries, and he was a hard-working public servant. To accuse him of descending at times into jobbery and political trickery, is merely to accuse him of being a Canadian politician. Sir George Cartier li 00 26 TRAVEL, ADVENTUKE, AND SP01:T. liad entertMl Parliament in early life, and was soon recognised as the leader of the French Canadian national party, a position which enahled him at all times to crtmmand about GO votes in tlie House of Commons. With such a following, it is easy to understand how he was ahle for many years to maintain himself in a prominent ^losition in public life. Many who ought to know assert that at heart he had no real love for the Iioman Catholic priest- hood : such may perhaps have been his private feelings, but in })ublic he had to bow before it. It is a lever of mighty power in the province of Quebec, and by doing political jol)s for it, he secured its influence. Had he estranged that party from him, another who longed for the opportunity would soon have occupied the position he held as leader of the French Conservatives. Sir John ^lacdonald's illness was a fortunate circumstance for the rebel clifpie in Fort Garry, as it enabled their sympathising friends in Canada, through their influence with Sir G. Cartier, to obtain for them all that they could have reasonably wished for. The reservation of loud provided for in the Bill was calculated to injure tlie true interests of Manitoba by retarding emigration. There are several other clauses in the Bill referring to the creation of a legislature and to the rights of franchise, which tend to give a monopoly of political power to the French-speaking people for some years to come. J THE IIED IIIVKU EXPEDITION. ooy MS soon anadiaii liim at e House is easy years to 11 pulilic at heart ic priest- private ?e it. It ' Quebec, cured its •mu liim, >ul(l soon er of the s illness cli(]ue in friends Cartier, asonably Bill was Manitoba ral other ion of a which r to the ;o come. From what has been already stated re^j^ardin^ their views and aspirations, it may ])e inferred that a love for pro^Tess is not included in their political belief, so their pc^litical ascendancy pioniised no good f(.>r the country. Althou^di the ^lanitoba JJill passed through both Houses of Parliament with but little opposition, still the Government policy as expressed by it was denounced by all the leading and all the inde] ten- dent English newspapers in Canada as altogether in the interests of the French rebel party. The .£300,000 was paid to the Hudson r»ay Com- pany ; and the (^)ueen's proclamation transferring the whole Xorth - Western territories to the Dominion was shortly to be issued The Imperial Government consented to co-operate in the military expedition to the Red Eiver; and the strength of the force was, after a lengthened telegraphic correspondence, fixed at one weak bat- talion of regular infantry, two battalions of Canadian militia, and a small detachment of Eoyal Artillery- men and of Royal Engineers ; about one-fourth of the total expense was to be defrayed from the home treasury, the remainder to be paid by the Dominion. Colonel AVolseley, then on the staff in Canada, was appointed to command it, and its organisation and equipment were rapidly pushed forward. Having given a rough sketch of the political events that rendered necessary the despatch of a military 228 TItAVEL, ADYENTUKE, AND SPOET. i: ( v.\ ;i i t :pe(l] the Eed Ri r country, we shall now endeavour to give a general description of the region to be traversed, and of the difficulties to "be overcome by it, reserving for another chapter an account of its organisation, and of the manner in which it fulfilled its mission. A glance at the map of Xorth America will show the reader that lying west of the inhabited province? of Canada are Lakes Huron and Superior. They are united by the St Mary River of about fifty miles in length. A canal has been constructed on the Ameri- can side of the river, by means of which vessels can avoid the raj^ids of Sault Ste Marie, and pass easily from lake to lake. Taking therefore Toronto, the chief town in Ontario, as a starting-point, a traveller wishing to reach Fort Garry through British territory would go by rail 9-4 miles to Collingwood, and from thence by steamer 534 miles to Thunder Bay, via the St ^lary Eiver Canal. The waters of Lake Superior and its tributaries flow into the Gulf of St Lawrence, whilst those of Lake "Winnipeg empty themselves into Hudson Bay. These two water-systems are separated by a line of rugged hills, which approach to within about 80 miles of Thunder Bay, the lowest l)ass over them in that locality being about 839 feet above Lake Superior. Some years ago a route had been explored from Thunder Bay to Fort Garry ; and a scheme was laid before the Canadian Parliament for improving it, by I THE IIED KIVER EXPEDITION. 229 all now 3 region vercome it of its fumiled ill show Tovince? riiey are miles in 3 Anieri- jsels can ss easily •nto, the traveller territory nd from via the Superior iwrence, m selves ems are roach to lowest 539 feet ed from ,vas laid g it, by -f 'n :;:« the construction of canals, dams, and short roads, for facilitating the navigation of the lakes and rivers that lay along it, and for establishing land communications between them. The first link in the chain was to be a road of about 29 miles — from Tliunder Bay to Dog Lake — by means of which the dilficult navigation of the Kaministiquia liiver was to be avoided. Little attention was, however, paid to the subject until 1868, when the road was begun. In the fol- lowing year a better pass over the hills than that by Dog Lake was discovered, necessitating, however, a lengthening of the road from Thunder Bay to about 48 miles. As the word " portage " ^yill frequently be met with in all narratives of Xorth American travel, the reader shoidd remember that it means a break in a chain of water communication, over which canoes and stores have to be carried on the men's backs. The new" route "svas therefore 48 miles by road through the forest to Shebandowan Lake, and from thence about 310 miles by rivers and lakes (''vith about 17 portages), to the Lake of the Woods. Some of these portages were more than a mile in length ; and when it is remembered that all the boats and stores, c^'c. &c., required for the Expedition, had to be carried by the soldiers over these breaks in the navigation, an idea can be formed of the physical labour which such an operation would entail. From the Lake of the Woods to Fort Garry was about 100 VOL. I. Q i 15 If i! Kit ii i 1 1 1 i ! I 230 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. miles in a straight line by land, but there was only a road made Tor about 60 miles of that distance, the unmade portion being laid out over most difficult swamps. If, therefore, the troops could not advance by that route, as was subsequently found to be the case, the only other way of reaching ^Manitoba was via the AVinnipeg liiver, the navigation of which was known to be so difficult and dangerous that none but experienced guides ever attempt it. There were about 30 portages to be got over in the 160 miles extra thus added to the total length of the distance to be traversed. In 1869 about twenty miles of the Thunder B^ road had been constructed ; during the winter of 1869-70 bridges were constructed over the two largest rivers which crossed the line of road, and in the following spring the road was pushed on still farther some six or seven miles. "When early in 1870 arrangements were being made for the despatch of the Expedition, the Cana- dian Ministers impressed upon the military authori- ties responsible for its success that, by the time the troops had been collected together on the shores of Thunder Bay, the road from thence to Shebandowan would be fit for traffic, and that good roads would have been constructed over all the portages by the Public Works Department. The country lying between Lake Superior and Bed Eiver was known to be a wilderness of poor f THE RED PJVEll EXPEDITION. 231 'as only a ;ance, the b difficult i advance :o be the itoba was of which rous that t. There I the 160 bh of the ndei Bi^ winter of the two road, and d on still [•e being he Cana- authori- time the shores of Dandowan ds would s by the jrior and of poor ir timber, lakes, rivers, and rocks, and to be uniu- liabited except by wandering tribes of Indians. The waters, it was said, aboundiBd in fish, but the woods were almost destitute of game. The Indians are the Chippewahs, a tribe that occupies the islands in Lakes Huron and Superior, and is scattered along their shores. Tliey are essen- tially wood Indians, and venture but seldom on to tlie plains, being in mortal dread of their hereditary enemies the Sioux — the most warlike tribe now in North ^Vmerica. As long as the rivers are free of ice these Chippewahs almost live in their canoes, roving about in the localities where hsh is most plentiful. Their canoes are small, and so light that a woman can easily carry one over the longest por- tage. On the shores of the great lakes, where these Indians have long been in contact with the white man, many of them are Christians ; but those in the interior are still heathens, and will not submit to hav- ing missionaries settled amongst them. In summer they get blueberries, but their chief article of food is iv")h, although, here and there on fertile spots, they L'' nv a few potatoes and a little Indian corn. They arc an extremely dirty race : the men are very lazy, and cannot be depended upon to continue at any work they may be employed upon, although they are said to be truthful and honest. They are poly- gamists, and the morality of their women is not of a high order. They are very improvident, and cannot ii 232 :ii" i: & ! h I ^ i ( I TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. be induced to lay by provisions in case of want, so that a winter seldom passes that some do not die from starvation. As they are all armed and capable of great endurance, and as the country generally is a network of lakes, where they can go in any direction for hundreds of miles in their light canoes, they might cause endless trouble and great loss to any military force seeking to push its way through tlie country without their permission. They expect to be well paid by travellers in pres- ents of I 'o^isions ; so their presence along the line of route addb. . the difficulties to be overcome, as all such presents would have to be carried by the troops, and every pound of extra weight was a serious matter. For the conveyance of the provisions and stores between Thunder Bay and Shebandowan, a con- siderable transport corps would be required — all the material for which would have to be sent there in steamers, as also the forage required for the animals, for neither hay nor grass was to be had on the spot. In fine, to get a military force to Red River, it was necessary to send it complete with all warlike appliances, and with at least two months' provisions, through a wilderness for a distance of above 600 miles, where no supplies of any description were obtainable. It was no wonder, therefore, that our Government paused and considered well before they committed any of her Majesty's troops to an opera- r. THE RED IIIVER EXPEDITION. 233 i want, so lo not die ad capable lerally is a y direction noes, they 3SS to any irough tlie rs in pres- the line of 3ome, as all the troops, LOUS matter, and stores an, a con- uired — all sent there d for the to "be had |d River, it all warlike provisions, above 600 Iption were that our [before they an opera- tion beset with such difficulties, and where any serious mistakes on the part of those who conducted it would most probably have led to disastrous results. 11. The force consisted of the 1st Battalion GOthEifles, two battalions of Canadian Militia, a detachment of Itoyal Engineers, and a detachment of Royal Artil- lery, with four 7-pounder guns. Xavigation opens usually on Lake Superior about the 8th or 10th of May ; and it was essential that the troops for the Red River Expedition should rendez- vous at the earliest possible date in Thunder Bay, on the western shores of that lake. As described in the previous chapter, all ships sail- ing from Collingwood for that place mast pass through the canal at the Saidt Ste Marie, which runs exclu- sively through United States territory. To send sol- diers through that canal had never been contemplated. They were to be landed on our side of the Ste Marie River, below the rapids, to march up the Canadian bank about three miles, and then embark again in the same steamers in which they had sailed from Colling- wood, and which in the mean time were to have gone round through the canal. During the war be- tween the North and South, we had never made any remonstrances when the "Washington Government IT" 234 TKAVKL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. )^ i Iff I li ' III sent warlike material up the St Lawrence through our canals into the lakes ; in fact they had once sent a gunboat by tliat route. It was hoped that similar facility would be allowed to us, and that as long as no armed men violated their territory, no difficulty would be raised to our sending stores of all descri})- tions through the 8te Marie Canal. It was, howeyer, thought adyisal)le to send a steamer, laden only with a purely mercantile cargo, through the canal, as soon as it was open for traffic. One of the steamers that run every summer between Collingwood and Thunder Bay was selected for the purpose, and, when once on Lake Superior, it was intended to keep her there until it was officially ascertained whether the Ameri- cans meant to be obstructive or not. Having even one steamer on that lake would render us indepen- dent, as she could be kept constantly running across, taking men, horses, stores, &c., n board ; no more might be, •u ■^ I ft should for the present be alLnved to pass into Lake Superior. This obstructive policy on the part of tlie ^linis- ters at Washington did not, however, prevent the existence of very cordial relations between the local government authorities on both sides. "We always felt that as a last resource we coulil buy or hire steamers belonging to United States citizens on Lake Superior for use there. It was said that Eiel, or at least some of his gang, liad been coquetting with the American authorities upon the subject of annexation, and the press through- out the AVestern States of America openly declared a desire to hinder the British troops from getting to Fort Garry. As it was thought that the single steamer which, as already described, we had succeeded in placing upon Lake Superior might not be sufficient for our own requirements, an American propeller was hired at Sarnia, and sent up empty to Lake Sujierior through the canal, her master swearing to the United States authorities at the Sault that he had not been hired by the Canadian Government, and that he had nothing whatever to do with the Eed liiver Expedition. This declaration was entirely spontaneous on his part, and not the result of any instructions received from us. "When he had passed through the canal, and was seen to steer over and anchor near our shore, the canal officials realised how V 1; -i! H 236 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT, () they had hecn taken in l)y one of their own citizens. A protest having by this time been sent to tht^ President by the Governor-General of the Dominion, all restrictions upon British trading-vessels having n warlike material on board were withdrawn. This affair of the canal had the effect of retard- ing for some time the departure of the Expedition, but it was not the only cause of delay. As this was the first military expedition ever undertaken by the Government of Canada, excuses can easily be made for the ignorance displayed by its Ministers upon all points connected with army matters, or the requirements of troops in the field. They cannot, however, be so easily pardoned for having failed to recognise their ignorance, and for having neglected to avail themselves of the military talents of the able soldier, General the Hon. James Lindsay, who had been sent out from England especially for the oc- casion. That officer was most anxious to relieve them of all responsibility regarding the organisa- tion, equipment, and despatch of the expeditionary force ; but such an arrangement did not suit their political ends. A large outlay of money was to be made, and they wished to spend it as much as possible amongst their political supporters. When therefore the General, with the thoroughness and energy for which he was celebrated, went to Colling- wood on the 5th of May, and made all the neces- sary arrangements for the despatch of the troops by THE VED rJVER EXPEDITIOX. 237 1 citizens, it to the )ominion, having n(» of retard - xpeclition, s this was 'taken by easily he Ministers ers, or the ey cannot, y failed to eglected to •f the able who had 'or the oc- to relieve organisa- ^editionary suit their ey was to much as rs. When hness and to Colling- the neces- troops by steamer from thence, and telegraphed for permissiiju t(t close the bargains, he wa>^ told l)y the Ottawa (Government to do nothing in tlie matter, as all sueh arrangements would be made by their own agents. The result was, that instead of starting about the end of the first week in May, the first detachment of the expeditionary force did not leave Collingwood for Thunder Bay until the 21st of that month. The steamers used on these great Canadian lakes are a sort of cross between the ocean-going and the ordinary iVmerican river-steamboats. They have their state-rooms and their bars, so that in calm weather one can enjoy all the luxuries that are so dear to our Transatlantic cousins ; whilst their hulls are strongly built, and capable of enduring the heavy weather so often encountered on these inland seas. The scenery has been so frequently described, that we make no apology for landing the reader without more ado, together with the expeditionary force, on the western shore of Thunder Bay, about four miles north-west of where the Kaministi'juia Biver flows into Lake Superior, the place being now known as Prince Arthur's Landing. There was but a small clearance in the woods when we landed, where a few wooden shanties had been erected, and :;11 around the prospect was extremely desolate. One of those dreadful fires which occasional] v sween over whole districts in Canada, destroying houses, crops, cattle, and sometimes many human lives, had raged over the i I ■nfrmr :| ! ii ! >: M' h iiii 238 TRAVEL, ADVENTUKE, AND SPOUT. country between the landing and Shebandowan Lake, destroying small bridges, culverts, and cribwork on the road already partly made between those two points. Xo lives had been lost, and the two largo bridge^ which had been erected during the winter, and most of the public property, had been saved by the exertions of the workmen. The forest, which came down to the water's edge all round the bay, presented a pitiful sight. Nature never wears a more sombre appearance than when the fiery element has swept over a forest, burning every leaf, every small branch, and every blade of grass, leaving nothing but the tall dismally blackened trunks and burnt-up rocks around them. Such was the first impression upon landing : it had a depressing effect on our spirits, for go where we might, the scene was one of funereal mourning, whilst here and there the peaty soil still smoked heavily, showing that although no fire vas visible on the surface, the elements of destruction still smouldered beneath it. During our subsequent stay at Prince Arthur's Landing, we had more than one opportunity of witnessing great fires in the woods ; and the imposing grandeur of such scenes may be imagined, but words cannot describe them. To be surrounded by a forest, and to hear the roaring, crashing, crackling sounds of a raging fire borne by a high wind in your direction, is, we feel sure, the most appalling of all human sensations. The smallest and most despised insect seems then your superior as r. THE KED IlIVEU EXPEDITIOX. 239 van Lakf, bwork on Nvo points. [G bridge>; id most of exertions ) down to d a pitiful ppearance V a forest, md every I dismally d them, aiding : it go where mourning, il smoked as visible :tion still [uent stay than one le woods ; may be To be roaring, |borne by sure, the smallest iperior as it tlii's aw;iy out of harm's n-ach with what sounds at tlio time like a chirp of mocking disdain and pity for your earth-bound impotence. Your only hope of safety is either a change of wind, or being able to reach a swamp, a lake, or a largo river, l»efore your swift and relentless pursuer overtakes you. Any one who has ever witnessed the landing of an army at a point which is to become the base of further operations, will easily understand how little time was left for either mournful or poetical reflec- tions upon the manner in which such a fair spot had been converted into a dismal wilderness. Work, work, work, from daylight until dark, and often even until late at night, getting stores, horses, waggons, (fcc, i^'c, ashore, and conveying them from the beach to the several depots appointed for their reception. Road-making and opening out comviunications be- tween the camps, Avhich the nature of the gromid rendered it impossible to have in one j^h^ce, gave employment to a large number daily. It was decided to establish a large depot of supplies and ammunition at Prince Arthur's Landing, which we could draw upon in case of need, or upon which we could fall back in the event of any untoward disaster ; a hospital was equipped for the reception of the wounded if there should be any, and to which all who fell sick during the advance were to be sent back. As the Fenians had declared their intention of fitting out an armed vessel on Lake Superior for the purpose of • ! r"»- 240 TliAVEL, ADVENTUKE, AND SPOHT. \^ II I i^' 'i ,1 ( i ^i attacking our .store-ships whilst en route, and of fal- ling upon our depots whrii left unguarded hy tlu) advance of tlie Expedition, it was considered neces- sary to construct a redoubt for their protection. This entailed considerable extra labour u[>on the soldiers : but notwithstanding the frequent rains, the work went on merrily, so that when the force left Thunder Bay, the rear with its stores was perfectly secure from any attack that could possibly be brought against it by this Hibernian brotherhood. A com- pany of militia was left behind, with two guns, as a garrison for the redoubt. Of all known parts of the world it may bo truthfully stated that the Thunder Bay region is the most subject to violent thunder- storms — whether owing to metallurgic influences or to geographical position we do not know\ ^' ny officers who had been " all over the world " adi d they had never heard such appalling claps of thunder before. On some occasions trees were blown down, on others they were split into shreds. At times, especially at night, the noise was such that the ground seemed to shake, and it sounded so close that one expected to see the tent-pole riven in two. Xow and then these storms were accompanied by rain of quite a tropical character, after which the numerous streams became so swollen that bridges were swept away, and long portions of the road, which had been constructed with infinite toil, were completely de- stroyed. Every such misfortune retarded progress. THE i;i:i) kiveu KxrEDiTiox. 241 id of flll- l by the ed neet's- 011. This soldiers : the worl; , Thundt'i' :ly secure ! l)rought A com- guns, as a irts of the ; Thunder i thunder- luences or adi d )f thunder wn down, At times, that the close that l\vo. Xow by rain of numerous ere swept had been letely de- progress. Tilt' Hudson r.ay nfHcers best acquainted with tlie ciiuntry, reported tliat we could not calculate up<.»n beiuLr able to get throu.Lrh the liigher region over which the route lav after the end of Hepteuibcr. I'^'ery day was therefore of consequence ; for al- though it was intended to leave the militia regi- ments at Fort ("Jarry for the winter, instructions havl been received from the home authorities that the regular troops should be brought back from the Ked 1 liver l)efi)re the winter set in, if it was possible to do so. Tins was not the only incentive to haste ; for every mail from the north-west brought urgent aj)- peals from its inhabitants, praying for the earliest possible arrival of the force amongst them. Alarm, and a dread of some unknown evil, seemed to have possessed their minds ; men had begun to suspect one another, and no one knew to whom to look for either comfort or safety : all eyes and thoughts were bent upon the expeditionary force as the sole chance of deliverance from the bondage, both of mind and br>dy, to which every loyal man was there subjected. xVs already stated, the Ottawa authorities had announced that the road from Thunder Bay to She- Tjandowan Lake would be fit for traffic before the end of ^fay ; whereas by that date not more than thirty miles of it were finished, and many miles were still uncut through the primeval forest. A rumour got abroad amongst the regular troops that the Canadian authorities were not very anxious to ' i 'tauSaaa I 1 i t f [ r 1 I I (« ; pi! i'l Hi 'I! lit 242 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. hasten the operation, lest by so doing they might make it possible for the regulars to get back before the winter set in ; and every one knew that the Dominion ^linistry were most anxious that they should be kept at Fort Garry for at least a year. The construction of this road was under the super- intendence of the Public AVorks Department, the gentleman representing which in the Ministry was a French Canadian, and known to be heart and soul with tlie priestly party in Quebec, and therefore favourably inclined to Kiel. ^len of a suspicious turn of mind began to say that the fact of there being no road ready for our advance was part and parcel of a political scheme whereby the departure of the Ex- pedition might be stopped altogether. As the pro- mised road was not likely to be ready in time, a river-route to Shebandowan Lake was sought out and utilised for the conveyance of the boats, &c., ^c, A large-sized river flows out of that lake, and being joined by two others of about equal magnitude, empties itself into Thunder Bay : it is known for the greater -part of its course as the Kaministiquia Kiver. The difference of level between Shebandowan Lake and Thunder Bay is more than 800 feet, and in de- scending from that great height the water passes over some very line falls, one of which is about 120 feet high, being one of the most picturesque spots in British Xorth America. The ofiicials of the Public "Works Department who m THE RED RIVER EXPEDITION. 243 111 ey might zk iDefore that the hat they ) a year, the siiper- nent, the stry "svas a and soul therefore suspicious liere being I parcel of )f the Ex- .s the pro- in time, a lit out and '' Sec. lake, and nagnitude, m\ for the uia liiver. .wan Lake land in de- asses over 120 feet spots in bment who liad been employed for several years exploring, sur- veying, and road -making in that district, had im- pressed upon the military autliorities, when the plan of operations for the Expedition was being decided upon, that this river could not be made use of owing to tlie dangerous nature of its rapids and the magni- tude of its falls. However, when it was found that the road could not possibly be ready in time, an ex- ploring party of one company, under Captain Young, GOth liifles, was sent up it in boats to ascertain the l)racticability of using it for the conveyance of boats and stores. The weather was most unpropitious ; it poured continuously : the men were never dry, hav- ing constantly to work up to their waists in water ; the labour was excessive, Ijut the perseverance of the above-mentioned officer, capa' le of overcoming any difficulties, was duly rewarded. Tliis discovery was a happy event, as it rendered us independent of the road. As numerous portages have to be got over before we land the reader in the province of ^Manitoba, it is perhaps better to describe here the mode of • cross- ing one, the work on all being alike in character, I and only varying in amount according to the distance 5 to be traversed and the nature of the intervening ground. The bulkiest articles taken with us were the boats, which were all about 30 feet long, and made in proportion. They were built with keels, .and in form were very much like those used in our /f^'^ i i ! i > ij i 1 ; i 1 J 1 ; : il:!';! !i-! i'.i r\\ . 'i; ''Ml n 244 TIJAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. navy. Each T)oat carried eight or nine soldiers, aiKJ two or tliree Indians or civilians, who had been especially engaged as skilled in managing boats in rapid water. Tlie stores were sixty days' provisions for all embarked, consisting of salt pork, beans, pr«> served potatoes, Hour, biscuit, pepper, salt, tea, ainl sugar. The heaviest of these articles was the pork, which was packed in small barrels, weighing 200 11). each, the others being in much lighter and mudi handier packages. iJesides food, there was ammuni- tion, intrenching - tools, camp equipment, cooking utensils, waterproof sheets, blankets, &c., &c. ; and with the artillery, two 7-pounder Ijronze guns, and their ammunition, material, &c., &c. The boats were distributed into brigades of six, to each of which a company was allotted. With eacli brigade were Ijoat-builders' tools, apd all sorts of stuff for repairs, besides spare oars, sails, <^c., &c. Once started, it was known that we should have to r(dy upon ourselves and the stores we took with us ; for such was the utter barrenness of the wilderness through which we were about to penetrate, tliat nothing but wood, stones, and water were to be hail there. Every probable, indeed almost every possible, con- tingency had to be thought of and provided for ; and it may be confidently asserted that no expedition has ever started more thoroughly complete or better pre- pared for its work. :li!il' iiil T. THE RED RIVER EXPEDITION. 215 ildiers, aiKl liad been 2 boats in provisions beans, prc- It, tea, and LS the pork, ing 200 11). and much as ammnni- it, cooking ., &c. ; and e guns, and 3S of six, to With each orts of stuff &c. Once lave to rcdy rith. us; for wilderness etrate, that to be had ossible, con- ed for ; and sedition has better pre- Tlie brigades of boats were to move singly or in groups of two or three, according to circmnstances ; lint three was the largest number that could work to- gether on a portage, two being the best. "When one of these detachments reached a portage — which it generally did before the one innnediately in front of it had got all its stores, tSL'c, over, and Inul again started — the l)oats were at once drawn in to the shore as close as possible and unloaded, the stores belonging to each boat being ])ut in a separate pile. 'Jliese were covered over with tarpaulins if the hour was too late for work, or if — as was always the case with the lead- ing detachment, consisting of three brigades — the roiid over the portage had to be opened out, and ndlers for the boats laid down upon it. At other tim(!S the men began to carry over the stores without (hday, piling them in heaps, one for each boat, at the far end of the road, 'i'he ordinary iii< thod in vogue with Indians and the regular North American voy- ageurs for carrying loads, is by m< :ins of a long strap about three inches wide in the centre.', whcire it is passed across the forehead, but tapering oil" to an inch in width at the ends, which are fastened round the barrel or })arcel to be portaged. ^len accustomed to this work will thus carry weights of 400 lb., and some 500 lb., across the long- est portage, the loads resting on the upper part of the back, and kept there by the strap going round the forehead. The great strain is thus upon the neck, VOI. I. R -if! miSSSSSSSSm mssssm 246 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. I 1 I 'I'l ( ■i which has to be kept very rigid, whilst the body is bent well forward. As it could not be expected that soldiers untrained to such labour would be able to carry loads in that manner, short pieces of rope with a loop at each end were supplied to the boats, by means of which two short poles — cut in the woods at the portages as re- quired — wero> easily converted into a very efficient hand-l)arrow, of just the dimensions required for the conveyance of the small barrels in which our pork and flour were packed. After, however, a little practice, a large proportion of the men soon learned to use the common portage- strap, their officers setting them the example by them- selves carrying heavy loads with it. As soon as all the stores had been conveyed across the portage, the boats were hauled ashore, and dragged over, their keels resting on small trees felled across the path to act as rollers. The labour involved by hauling a heavy boat up u very steep incline, to a height of about a hundred feet, is no child's play. In eacli boat there was a strong painter and a towing-line, by means of which and the leather portage-straps a sort of man-harness was fcnined when required, so tliat forty or fifty men could haul together. Say the port- age was a mile long (some were more), and that each man had to make ten trips across it before all the stores of his brigade were got over, he would have walked nineteen miles during the operation, being T. THE RED VdVER EXPEDITION. 247 le body is ; untrained ids in that t each end which two tatjes as re- ry efficient ired for the h our pork proportion on portage- )le by theni- soon as aU portage, the over, their the path to hauling a a height of In eacli ing-line, by itraps a sort ed, so that ay the port- d that each fore all the would have ition, being I licavily laden for ten of them. At some portages considerable engineering ingenuity was required — small streams had to be bridged and marshy spots to be corduroyed over. By the time our men returned many of theniAvere expert axemen, and all were more or less skilled in the craft of the voyageur and Ameri- can woodsman. The country between Prince Arthur's Landing and Shebandowan Lake is wild and rugged. The road hetween those two places runs AV.X.W., and may, for purposes of description, be divided into three sec- tions — tlie first extending to Strawberry Creek, about eighteen miles ; the second to the Matawan River, al)out eight miles farther on ; and the tliird from tlience to Shebandowan Lake, about twenty -two miles more. The first section is very hilly, the soil near the bay being sandy, with a surface-covering at most places of from six to twenty-nine inches of peaty mould. Li the valleys between the hills are deep swamps, over Avhich roads can only be made with considerable labour. The timber has been entirely destroyed at some places by fires, so that every now and then tlie road emerges from the thick forest into clear (.)pen s[)aces sometimes of many hundreds of acres in ex- tout, where the ground is covered with the burnt tnuiks of fallen trees, piled up at places one over the other like spillikins, an occasional pine of great height being left standing as it were to show the traveller 248 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. 1 1 Til . ' i I III !> li'si ! J I 1 ;•■! ' rii; the vastness of the destruction. These places are called hruJees in the language of the country ; and in a few years after the fire has passed over them, are so tliickly covered by raspberry and rose bushes tliat it is difficult and tiring to cross them on foot. Tlie timber consists of white and red spruce, pitch-pine, balsam, cedar, tamarack, white birch, and poplar, tlie latter being at some places along the road in large quantities and of a great size. The rocks are trap- pean, a hard compact slate, with numerous veins of amethystine quartz and jasper, and jasper conglom- erate, running through them in irregular directions. Many silver-mines have been discovered in the neigh- bourhood, and galena, plumbago, and copper in sev- eral forms are known to abound ; so that no prophetic powers are necessary to foretell the great importance that this country will assume ere long from the de- velopment of its mineral resources. About midway in this section is the most rocky district traversed by the road, where it ascends through a rugged and hilly country to a height of many hundred feet above Thunder Bay. This region is also heavily wooded, so road-making through it was no easy matter. At many places large-sized boulders had to be removed from the road ; and at others, where great rough rocks cropped up in the way, they were broken up by light- ing huge fires around thcni, and by throwing w\ater over them when thoroughly heated. This caused them to split up into pieces, reminding^ one of the THE RED KIVER EXPEDITION. 249 iiKitliod said to have been adopted l)y Hannibal in crossing the Alps. Some half-dozen emigrants had settled along this first section of the road, the hrulees enabling them to establish themselves without the labour of felling timber; and their little shanties were, when we ar- rived, already surrounded by potato -gardens, whilst liore and there the rich greenness of a patch of oats crave an air of civilisation to the scene. Xumerous small rivulets are crossed in this section, over which bridges and culverts were constructed ; also two streams, one about 30 and the other about 40 yards wide, requiring more substantial work in carrying the road over them. As you approach Strawberry Creek, which sepa- rates the first from the second of the three sections, the general aspect of the country changes completely, and a red clay soil takes the place of the sand, rock, an'l peat passed over up to that point. The whole of the second section is composed of hills formed by this red clay, which, although admirably adapted for bricks and pottery, is extremely bad for road-making. When hard and dry, it was good for traffic ; but after a shower of rain it became so slippery that horses had much difficulty in keeping their feet, and a regularly wet day caused the wheels to sink so deep, that the horses struggled through it with difficulty, losing shoes at every stride. A few days' rain renders it impassable for wheeled transport, so that during the ^m r.^Sr~* '^c^Moa 250 TltAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPOUT. i; 1 1 !■ ■ I I i III I .^lil ; i i i ■ ';lii M'UI ■, n operation of forwarding stores over it in waggons, all traffic was stopped several times for days together. The valley of the Kaministiquia, where the road crosses it, is extremely pretty : the liills around are sufficiently rugged to be picturesque ; whilst fires have for generations back so frequently swept over them that their surface is tolerably open, with rock> cropi^ing up here and there, as if to give shadows to the picture ; clumps of willow^ are scattered at places, whilst the river's edge is fringed with bushes and stunted trees. The river is about 107 yards in width, and unfordable. The iMatawan falls into it about half a mile above the bridge ; above that again is a succession of heavy and imposing-looking rapid>!, over which our boats were tracked with difficulty, and w^ith trying labour to the men. The second section ends where the road crosses the Mataw^an by a bridge about 70 yards in length, con- structed, like the previous one, during the preceding winter. The distance between the two bridges is about five miles, the road running through some deep valleys and along the sides of rounded hills of red clay, the timber of which lay about in decaying logs, bearing Avitness to the many fires that have swept over the district at various remote periods. As the road descends into the valley of the Mata- wan and enters the third section, the character of the soil and scenery again changes — the red clay is left behind, and one enters a rolling country of rich THE KED KIVER EXPEDITION. 251 clayey loam, with sandy rises here and there, all thickly "vvooded over. Two unfordahle streams — one of 24, the other of about 33 yards in width — had to Ije bridged over in this section. As already stated, nearly the whole of the last eighteen miles of road, including these two bridges, had to be made after our arrival, which retarded our progress to an extent that liad not been anticipated. The road is much more level in this section than in the other two ; but at many places the natural drahiage is so bad, that even up to the date when the force had finally embarked at Shebandowan, the track cut through the forest was useless as a highway fur constant and heavy trafftc. Had it not been dis- covered in time, as already detailed, that the river could be made available, particularly along ^ rts of this third section, for the transport of our bou s and stores, we should have been delayed a month or six weeks still further than we were, and could not pos- sibly have reached Fort Garry in time to have fitted up barrack accommodation for the troops before the winter set in, or to have brought them back before the fro^ ' • 1 closed the rivers and small lakes to be passed un the higher portions of the route. It was the knowledge of these facts, and the con- sciousness of the emergency, that justified those responsible for the success of the Expedition in calling upon the men to undergo the unceasing labour that was entailed upon them. " Sunday TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. El' h: i ; I '1:1! li.i ■'I slionc no Stibbath-day for tlioni." From the time tlio troops began to advance, '' Push on, push on,"' was the hourly cry of the officers ; and every one, down to the youngest bugler, being taken into the leader's confidence regarding the necessity for haste, recognised the urgency of the case, and put his shoulder to the wheel with a will and a cheerv energy that Ijade defiance to all obstacles. We treated our men not as machines, but as reasoning beings, having all feelings in common with ourselves ; and they responded to our appeals as Jiritish soldiers ever will when under men in whom they have un- bounded confidence. Before a start could be made it was essential that at least two months' supplies for the whole force should bo collected at Shebandowan Lake. Our transport horses were very fat when they landed, and had to begin work at once, so that, although allowed to eat as much oats and hay as they could, they quickly fell off dreadfully in con- dition. The badness of the roads rendered the work very severe upon them, and a large proportion were soon unfit for draught, owing to sore shoulders. Two causes contributed chiefly to this : first, the badness of the collars ; and secondly, the carelessness of the drivers. The harness had been provided by the Canadian Government, and, like all the military stores supplied by it for this Expedition, was of an inferior descrip- I THE KED i;iVEU EXrEDlTIOX. 25:^ tioii ohtainoil hy CMjiitract. The military forco in L'anatla was to l)e rtMluccd in tlio suinincr of 1S70 ; and orders hail Leeii received by tlie general com- manding, desiring him to dispose of, on the spot, or to send home to England — according as he might think best for the pnhlic interest — all the military .«;t(jres, giving the Dominion Government the option of buying at a valuation all or any portion of them. We had in store plenty of harness and every descrip- tion of article required for the ei^uipment of the force, the regulation prices of "which were considerably below what similar but vastly inferior articles could be ob- tained for in the open market. It did not, however, suit the Ottawa ]\Iinisters, whose province it was to obtam the re(][uired stores, to get them from our magazines ; they preferred pur- chasing the inferior and dearer articles through their own agents from their own political friends and sup- porters. When money is to be spent in Canada, tlio opportunity is seldom lost for furthering party ob- jects. As a stronger illustration of this, we may here mention that the boots supplied to the militia regiments were so utterly worthless after a few weeks' wear, that, upon arriving at Thunder Bay, it was found necessary to send back to Canada for new ones from our stores — so that the country had to pay for two pair per man instead of one. The men for the land-transport service were especi- ally engaged for this duty by the militia department ; 1 ! 1 I ;' ;! I i!!' ■111! 'iiil'li 254 TRAVEL, ADVEXTUIiE, AND SPORT. and, M'itli soiiio excoptions, a more "worthless set as drivers and liorse-keepers it is scarcely possi))le to im- a.^ine. ^[eii of all sorts of callings, except those ac- custonied to the care of horses, ■were enlisted, so thai some of them did not even know how to put a set of harness together. As S(K)n as these men got clear (•{ a station on th(i road, an 1 out of view of the trans- port oflicers, they played all sorts of i)ranks, and in- stead of going at a steady walk, chose their own pace, sometimes amusing themselves hy racmg. It was found necessary to make some examples amongst the worst-hehavcd before anything like discipline could be maintained amongst them. As a protection for the horses against the heavy rains, ranges of rough stables were erected at several places along the 48 miles of road between Prince Arthur's Landing and the lake — the planks for those at the former place being brought from Collingwood in steamers, those used elsewhere being sawn from trees cut down where required. The Canadian axe- man is very handy at constructing shelter for either cattle or stores ; the bark of trees, particularly of the birch and tamarack, is largely used instead of plank- ing. A roof is also quickly and efficiently made w^tli troughs hewn from logs of American poplar, placed, as tiles are, in rows alternately convex and concave, each trough being cut of sufficient length to reach from the apex to the eave of the roof ; and one large one, cut from a tree of greater diameter, being placed UT. THE I;EL) \a\E\l KXIT-DITIOX. L>55 ilcss set as ;sil)lo to ini- pt tlioso ac- ited, so that put a set of got clear nf i tlio traiis- tiks, and iu- ir own pace, ,g. It Avas [iniongst the ipline could t the heavy }d at several reen Prince .ks for those uollingwood sawn from iiadian axc- r for either darly of the ,d of plank- r made with )lar, placed, nd concave, th to reach id one large Deing placed loii-itudinally at top, along the ridge, so as to cover up tlie ends of the troughs of hoth si«les of the roof wht'ie they meet above. Ouring the month of June, and half the montli of ,luly, the work on tlie road went (tn unremittingly, " ((a'duroying" l)eing alone attempted; ditches were made at ])oints only where they were essential to pre- vent Hooding. As few of our readers have ever seen a corduroy road — may none of them ever have to drive over one ! — a few lines describing its construc- tion may not be out of place. The course to b(3 f(d- lowed through the forest having been marked out by 'M)hizing" a line of trees, the re(iuired breadth of road is cleared of tind3er and all serious obstructions, and partially levelled. Logs of from six to nine inches in diameter are then cut ten feet long, and laid close together side by side, small branches and sand or earth being strewn over them to fill up the unavoidable interstices. Such was the rough method pursued by us ; but in Canada more care- ful labour is bestowed upon roads of this descrij)- tion when they are intendetl for more permanent use. Before leaving Prince Arthur's Landing, a depu- tation of Indians from the neighbourhood of Fort Francis arrived to inquire what we were doing, and what were to be our intended movements. The party consisted of three men, two boys, and a squaw. Few of us had ever before seen the pure heathen uni :':Milil I 1 ;i • 'I ■ ; I ) i i 1 .;i- ' i 256 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. Xortli American Indian, and it must be admitted that none of us were very favourably impressed by these specimens of that people. When near our camp, the speaker of the party, called " Blackstone," havin.; lagged behind the others, was overtaken by an officer who was driving towards the bay, and who volun- teered by signs to give him a lift ; the offer was good- humouredly accepted. This Indian chief had never been in a wheeled conveyance before ; and havina', like all these wood savages, an instinctive horror of horses, the drive was gone through with more solem- nity than pleasure. When he came in sight of the tents he requested permission to dismount where there was a little stream of water. Pulling from his pocket a small piece of soap, he wet it, and plastered down his long, straight, black hair with it, and tied round his head a mink-skin, from which at the back stood up a row of eagle's feathers, with here and there an ermine-tail hanging from them. Having thus com- pleted his toilet, he came into camp. An English missionary who had recently arrived from Canada, and who lived close to the beach, in- vited the whole party to his tent, where he gave them a joo^^. dinner — no easy matter, as an Indian will eat as niuch as four white men if allowed to have as much as he likes. The feast over, the zealous clergyman thought he might improve the occasion by administering to their spiritual wants ; but they no sooner imderstood his object than they hastily bolted ,^f •I THE RED RIVER EXPEDITIOX. 257 itted that by these camp, the ," havincj an officer ho volun- was good- liad never d having, 1 horror of ore solem- ^ht of the int where g from his I plastered ;, and tied the back and there thus com- ly arrived beach, in- he gave an Indian d to have e zealous casion by .t they no ily bolted from his tent as if it had been infected, such is their horror of tliose who seek to convert them. The deputation was formally presented to Colonel Wolseley, and a great deal of talking ensued. The Indians call such an interview a *' pow-wow," and are very fond of making long speeches at them, ^lany of the chiefs have great oratorical powers, and use much gesticulation when declaiming. They ex- pressed astonishment at finding us making a road tlu'ough their country without having previously made any treaty for their lands, and were very anxious to enter upon the subject of the terms we intended pro- posing for the extinction of their territorial rights. These men had really no just claim to the land near the bay, nor, indeed, one might say, to the land lying between the hills and Lake Superior, as they never hunted there ; and beyond tliose hills, until you reached Eainy River, tliere was no land wortli mak- ing a treaty about. They were told that there was no intention whatever of making any arrangements on the subject at present ; but that hereafter, should the Canadian Government require any of their land, a suitable treaty would be made, when ample justice would T3e done them. They expressed themselves as devotedly loyal to the " Great Mother " — meaning the ueen — and anxious to assist their white brethren to the utmost of their power. They were made to under- stand that we merely wished for a right of way througli their territory, and that we had no intention of occu- IS I I "i i -■■ H:!^!H i : l'!i m nil'' il;; Mlili'tl '111; i I 258 TRAVEL, ADVEXTUEE, AND SPORT. pying their lands. Promises were made to them that their head men should receive suitable presents ; but that as we were pressed extremely for time, and would have great difficulty in carrying enough supplies with us to last during our tedious journey, they must not expect to receive them from the soldiers this year; that the officer who was then representing Canada at Fort Francis would arrange all particulars as to tlie quantities of things they were to be given, and when and where they were to receive them. They said they would go back and inform their friends of what had been told them, and in the meantime we were welcome to help ourselves to as much wood and water along the line of route as wo might require daily. These representatives of the once flourishing trihe of OjibcAvahs — or Chippewahs, is they are indiffer- ently called — were fine straight -looking men, and moved about with a certain dignity of bearing. Never but once did any of them express astonish- ment at what they saw, when the oldest of the party, after long and silent contemplation of the busy scene at our crowded wharf, said, "AVhat a number of white men there must be in the world ! " They were told to help themselves to a suit of clothes each from a shop which an enterprising tradesman had established near camp ; and, with the usual childish- ness and improvidence of their race, they seemed to select those articles which, of all others, were least RT. THE KED rJVER EXPEDITION. 259 ) them that esents; hut , and would ipplies with ey nuist not 5 this year; g Canada at :s as to tlio 1, and when nforni their and in the selves to as route as we rishing tribe are indiffer- g men, and of bearing. ss astonisli- of the party, busy scene number of They were clothes eacdi iesnian had ual childisli- y seemed to 5, were least suited for the life they had to lead — a frock-coat C)f the finest cloth being the garment most dear to them. Early in July our headquarters were transferred to the bridge over the Matawan Eiver, a most pic- turesque spot. Immediately below the bridge there was a fall, and below that again a series of rapids f(ir many miles. The banks being wooded down to the water's edge, there was some difficulty in clearing sufficient space for the camp of two battalions, and the large mass of provisions which it was found necessary to collect there. Here we erected stables and rough store -houses, so that the place quickly assumed the appearance of a little village busy with life, where the noise of the blacksmith's hammer re- sounded from early down until dark. The departure of empty waggons, and the arrival of loaded ones, went on at all hours ; and the noisy scene at the falls, where the boats arriving by river from Thunder Bay had to be portaged over about fifty yards, im- pressed upon the stranger visiting our camps the earnestness of the work before us. The black flies and sand-flies were very trouble- some at times, but a merciful Providence has only given them power to annoy man by day, so that, ex- cept occasionally, when the never-flagging mosquito buzzed round our heads at night, our sleep was un- disturbed. Before leaving Canada we had heard such " travellers' yarns " about the positive torture we ^i^! H -T«»«-> 260 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. If ' I llf! r ! i : . t ' 1'! il ! i ■ 1 '' x i ' ■ i ! j ; ! 1 t i 1 j iiiiiiihi ■ . ' should have to undergo from flies, that consideralde trouble was taken to design, as a protection against them, a veil made of net, shaped like a bag open at both ends : it was to be worn round the head, witli which it was prevented from coming in contact by hoops made of fine crinoline wire. Much expense had also been incurred in providing each boat witli a can of stuff known to all salmon-fishermen in Xortli America as mosquito oil. It is made with creosote and pennyroyal ; and when the face is well anointid with this disgusting unguent, no mosquito or otlu r winged torment will touch you as long as it is fresli. The parties engaged in bringing up the boats l»y river, and some of those stationed at j^laces along the road, were occasionally glad to use the veil to- wards evening ; but after the final start of the force from Shebandowan, the only use they were put to was for straining water through on the Lake of tlie Woods, where, as will be hereafter described, the water was almost opaque from the vegetable matter it held in suspension. The oil came in useful for burning in the lamps when the supply taken for them had been expended. Although the extreme measures of veils and oil were not found necessary, yet whilst we were en- camped m the woods, the mosquitoes were always sufficiently annoying to render it desirable to ha\e as much smoke as possible round where you sat in the evening, to keep them at a distance. In front of IT. THE TiED IIIVKI: EXPEDITION. 261 onsideralilc ion against lag open at head, with contact liv zh. expense L boat witli m in Nortli til creosote 11 anointed to or other I it is fresli. e boats l>y )laces along the veil to- 3f the force rere put to ake of the cribed, the ible matter useful for en for them lis and oil e were en- rere always )le to ha^e you sat in In front of each tent-door, as soon as the sun went down, you eenorally saw wliat the backwoodsman calls a '• smudge " smouldering away, filling the tents witli till' volumes of steamy smoke which it emitted. \ smudge is simply a small fire, on which is put damp iiiuss, or wet rotten wood or bark, which in burning uives out clouds of vapour laden with carbonic acid uas. To impregnate the air more effectually, the smudge was frequently placed actually inside the t«'nt, the door being left open, so that the flies in- commoded by the atmosphere might escape. AVlien tlio tent is completely filled with smoke, the door is fastened up for the night, so that no mosquito can enter. The stores were brought by our land - trans j)ort waggons as far as the ]\Iatawan camp; the road as far as that being in fine weather very good, all things considered. The great nut to crack was to get them over the twenty-two miles between there and Lake Slu'bandowan, a small portion only of that distance 1 laving a practical )le road over it. Every mile of navigable water on the river was therefore made use of, the stores being sent up for the first few miles in hoats, then conveyed a few more miles in waggons, then in boats again for about eleven miles, then a short distance again by waggon, and finally by water again for the last three miles to Shebandowan Lake : there they were collected on a sandy beach, previous to being distributed amongst the brigades as they •started finally for Fort (rarry. VOL. I. S «! !m:i '■ ' ! 1^ . ;i 1 I 262 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. It is scarcely necessary to reniincl the mercantile reader that this " breaking bulk " so repeatedly in- jured the stores considerably, and entailed much labour on the soldiers. The only recreations enjoyed by our men were bathing and fishing. Of tlie former, wliilst working in the boats, all had more than enough, for the men had constantly to work in the water ; but whilst em- ployed at road-making or moving stores on shore, a swim after the day's work was most enjoyable. The water in Lake Superior is always very cold; but that in some of the rivers — the Matawan, for instance — was positively tepid, so that the men would roll about in it for a length of time without feeling any ill effects. The strangest phenomenon was in M^Xeil's Bay, on Lake Shebandowan, where, in swimming, at one moment you passed through a narrow strip of very cold water, and the next instant you were in water as warm as the liuman body. The effect was most curious, and is supposed to come from springs rising from the bottom of the lake in that shallow portion of it. A\^ien encamped at Prince Arthur's Landing the men caught immense quanti- ties of lake trout, many of them weighing ten or twelve pounds, those of five or six being considered small. They are without exception the most taste- less of the finny tribe. There is nothing repulsive about them, either in appearance or in flavour ; but still, as food, we know of nothing which is less palu- lil I i:i!!i.ii;; ■ ! THE RED PJVEIl EXPEDITION. 2G3 table without being positively nauseous. At the various other camps along the road, and subse- quently during the advance upon Fort Garry, the men caught pike by trolling from the boats. Those with black backs were fair eating ; but the other sorts were bony and soft, with a muddy flavour. Each brigade was furnished with a fishing-net, as it was expected that large quantities of fish would be ob- tained along the line of route to vary the daily diet : but it was subsequently found impossible to use them ; for, being pressed for time, we never halted for a day until we reached Fort Alexander, close to Lake Winnipeg ; and as every one worked hard from sunrise until dark, there was never time for net-setting. Headquarters were moved on the 14tli July, to a spot within about three and a half miles of Shebando- wan Lake. The lf*th of that month had for some time been named for tl;e departure of the first detachment ; but as the day drew near, so much still remained to be done that few believed it possible to carry out the programme laid down. The spot on the lake selected as the starting-point was its extreme eastern end, wliere there ^\'ns a beach of bright yellow sand fur some hundreds of yards devoid of rocks or stones. We named it M'Xeil's Bay. The forest reaching down to the water's edge, entailed a considerable amount of clearing before sufficient space for a small camp, and for the marquees to • :. t* I ; 1^ -^^••^■-'■i"- ■"■ mi i i:; IM 264 TPiAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. hold tlie perisliablc stores, could be obtained. A wliarf was soon run out into deep water, alongside of which the boats were to be loaded. A cooper's shoj) Avas establislied, where all the barrels that had re- ceived injury during their many changes from carts to boats, and vice vemi^ were re-hooped, tliose from which the brine had leaked being refilled. Carpenters were hard at work repairing the boats, many of which leaked considerably, all having suffered more or less from the sharp-pointed rocks of the Kaministiquia. According to the arrangements made with the Cana- dian authorities, the boats were to have been handed over to us complete with all their own stores ; but unfortunately, from want of an organised system, and from the lack of an efficient staff to carry out the instructions received from Ottawa, the details of all such arrangements throughout the progress of the Expedition invariably fell to the ground. The result was, that according as every six or eight boats ar- rived daily, they had to be fitted with rowlocks, masts, sails, rudders, t^c. : those made for each indi- vidual boat were not to be found ; the onus of fitting out the boats devolved upon the troops, each cap- tain looking after the equipment for the boats of his own brigade. This occasioned some delay; for as the boats were of many different models and sizes, rudders, &c., required much alteration before they could be made to fit boats of a different class from those for which they had been constructed. <■ 4 I"! THE IIKD IIIVEU EXPEl'ITIOX. 2C5 During the progress of this Expedition, we liad many oj)portimities of ohservhig from behind the scenes how Government affiiirs are managed in Canada. The gentleman who represented the Puhlic AVurks Department with us was a most hard-work- ing man, Avho never spared himself in any waj'. If he was always over -sanguine, it was at least an agreeable failing, and perhaps arose from calculations l)ased upon the belief that other men would work as hard as he did himself. He had his hands always full, and had as much to do as any man, aided by the most efficient of staffs, could possibly do well. Alas for his sake, for the good of the service, and for the progress of the Expedition, those under him, with one or two exceptions, were the most help- lessly useless men that it is possible to imagine ! Instead of being permitted to choose his own assis- tants, he had all sorts of hangers-on about the Ministers forced upon him. Some were broken- down drunkards who it was thought ])y their friends might be reclaimed, if they could only be sent on an errand into a country where no whisky was to be had. All more or less belonged to the class known ill America as "loafers" — men who lived no one knew how, spending nearly all their time in bars "liquoring -lip" and smoking. AVe were much amused one day upon entering into conversation with a young gentleman who called himself the " book-keeper " at one of the roadside stations. Upon \\ f ; ii . i '"^iWff < 1. 1 il !li M 1 1 I i 2CG TKAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. bein,^ asked tlic employment lie had been hired for, he replied most nrnirlf/, that having a l)rother in Manitoba wlioni he desired to see, his uncle, the ^Minister for Public AVorks, had placed him upon the staff of that department, so that he might be taken there in one of our boats without expense to himself. "WTien appointments are to be given away, it is not a question of obtaining good men, but of how party purposes may be served by a judicious allotment of them amongst political supporters and their relations. Strong westerly winds prevailed on Lake Sheban- dowan whilst the final arrangements were being made for our start, so that upon some days such a sea came rolling in and 1 caking upon the shore that it was impossible to load boats, or to get them off had we even succeeded in equipping them. Most fortunately these *' blows" seldom became powerful until about nine or ten a.m., and generally wore them- selves out towards four or five p.m., so that we had almost always several hours in the morning and even- ing for pushing on our work. On the night of the 15th July we had the most violent thunderstorm experienced during the entire operation. The heavens seemed at times as if to open and let fall great crushing weights of exploding sub- stance upon the earth beneath, which they struck with blows that made all nature shake and tremble. Then followed what is commonly known as rain. THE KED ItlVEU EXl'EDITION. 2G7 I'll l! l)ut Avliich in this instance -was as slieots of water tumbling upon us in rapitl succession, Ix'^^'inning suddenly and ending as abruptly. The morning of the IGth was, liowever, fine, with a bright sun sliin- ing, and a strong westerly wind blowing, which, although it served to dry up everything, raised such a sea on the lake that wave after wave rolled in towards shore, breaking witli a h(>avy surf over the sandy beach in ^I'Xeil's Bay. AVhilst this lasted Httle could be done : the empty boats were either kept moored out in deep water in strings one l)ehind the others, or were drawn up high and dry on the shore. Its force lessened as the sun approached the horizon ; and as the lake became sufficiently calm, lioat after boat was brought alongside the wharf and received its allotted cargo. Such a scene of l:)ustle and excitement is seldom to be witnessed. Each boat had to be complete in itself with sixty days' provisions for all on board, with ammunition, camp equipment, and a hundred other things all essential for health and safety. Every one felt that their comfort and preservation would be endangered if any of the articles selected after so much careful thought by General Lindsay were forgotten ; for we all knew that in a few hours we should have bid a long farewell to civilisation, and that ere many days had passed we should be beyond the reach of all assistance from the outside world. Officers and non- commissioned were running about in all directions, r ■■ ' ?7 Yf^ w i! !.. 2G8 TILVVEL, ADVKNTUKK, AND SI'OKT. 80111(3 searcliiiig for oai's, otluirs for missing sails, Set'. I [ere a sergeant caiue to say that the spare rowloi-ks issued to his hoat wouhl not fit ; another reported that althongli lie ha«l heeii given a lamp, he had not received any oil for it, — and so on ; stafl' officers running about in all directions, endeavouring ti) rectify mistakes and smooth down difficulties. To a civilian unac(juainted with the working of an army, and the manner in which various duties are classified, divided and subdivided amongst ranks and individ- uals, each having their special work assigned to them, sucli a scene must have been like Pande- monium let loose. The boats being duly loaded, the crews were put into them. In more than one instance it was found that the men when placed on the thwarts had no room to stretch their legs so as to enable them to row, and a restowage of cargo had therefore to be efifected. All w^ere laden to the utmost extent com- patible with safety. Up to a late hour tlie proper number of voyageurs had not arrived. The original intention Avas to have three in each boat who were to steer it, and manage it when in rapid water — an art of itself requiring great nerve as well as length- ened experience. At the last moment the number per boat had to be reduced to two, more not being forthcoming. The sun had disappeared for some time ere, all being in readiness, the order was given for this first THE 1:EI> KIVEK EXrEDlTION. 2G9 (lutachiucnt to ** shove olF." It consistiMl of two com- panies of the GOth IJitk^s, a (h'taelinieiit of iJoyal Kngineers and of Iloyiil AitiHeiy, with two 7-pouiulei' guns, all under command of Colonel Feilden of the OOth. The wind had died away completely, leaving tlie surface of the lake calm as a mirror, wherein was reflected only the mist of the approaching evening. There was no hum of birds or insects from the woods which fringed its shores, no swallows rippled its smoothness in their hunt after an evening meal. Except at this little spot, where we were all hustle and excitement, the scene had the stillness of death ahout it, which in the distance seemed all the more deathlike from the contrast between it and the noise immediately around us. This absence of animal or even insect life in the Xorth American woods is one of their most striking characteristics. It was a pretty sight to see this little flotilla of boats row off over the lake whilst it still glowed with the golden tinges of the sun's last rays. It called to mind many an account read in early youth of very similar scenes, wlien freebooting Xorsemen weighed anchor and shook out their sails in some secluded inlet bent upon adventure. Except that we had rilled guns and cannon, our e(|uipment and our arrangements for overcoming the obstacles of nature were of a most primitive description. It seemed curious that a military expedition should be fitted ■ ' t! I t ! t 1 i ■ I i ': 1 1 : '1 ] 1 J i ; i 1 i i :■' 1 , ',1 i ; ■• 1 1 1 1 1' ^' 270 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. out in such an advanced era of civilisation, in an age so justly celebrated for its inventions and its progress in those arts and sciences which now enter so largely into the organisation of armies, a^id yet that it shoidd not be possible to enlist into its services the aid either of steam or of the electric telegraph. The sail and the oar were to be our means of pro- pulsion, as they had been those of the Greeks and Eomans in classic times ; and when arrived at the end of our 600 miles' journey, we should have as much difficulty and as far to send in order to communicate with even the nearest telegraph office, as Caisar's messenger to Rome, who carried the news of the successful descent upon our shores more than 1900 years ago. All sorts of melancholy prophecies had been pub- lished in the papers as to the dangers we should have to encounter. AVe were to be devoured by mosquitoes and other flies. It was said the Indians themselves could not live in the woods during July ; others who knew the country declared that the heat was then so stifling that the most acclimatised hunters had to forsake them, and seek for air and breath along the shores of Lake Superior. ^lany asserted that the Indians would never permit us to pass through their country without enforciiig the payment of a large subsidy ; whilst many laughed at the notion of ever attempting to make the journey to Fort Garry in anything except bark canoes manned by Indians. THE KED KIVER EXPEDITION. 271 1, in an and its >w enter and yet services legraph. of pro- iks and at the lave as 'der to office, ed the shores n pub- 1 have uitoes iselves who lien so id to the the their large ever ■y in iuns. (T AVhen told of the description of boats wo were taking Avith us, some pitied ns as p(^or deluded people, totally ignorant of what Avas liefore us ; whilst all these wiseacres seemed to consider us as men wliom the gods having doomed to destruction had first hccrazed. Sensil)le men who had but recently returned /•/'/ the United States from ^Manitoba said that our f^rce ought at least to bo three times stronger than it was : that Eiel was on the look-out for our ad- vance, and intended to defend step by stop and mile by mile the difficult C(Hmtry we should havr(} for us. Sec, Sec. Xever did any expedition have more lugul)rious prophecies made concerning it. From time to time the soldiers were, however, encouraged by intelligence received from lied liivc^r announcing Kiel's determination to shew fight. The work on the Kaministiquia River had been so very severe, and that of road-making — always dist;isteful to soldiers — so very Avearisome, that idl looked for- ward to the embarkation at Shelmndowan Lake as a relief from toil, or at least regarded it as a new phase in the undertaking whose novelty alone woidd compensate for any drawbacks attendant upon it. From the 1st June to the 16th July (when tliis first detachment started) it had rained upon twenty-three I! ) I 272 TKAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. I (lays. Fine "weather always clieers men up Avlien in the field ; and as tlie embarkation took place on a lovely day, this fact, added to the novelty of the operation, raised our animal spirits. Even the few of a desponding temperament, who for some time before liad never ceased repeating that a start was out of the question "for a long time" — even these men were seen to smile with gratification as the boats pushed off from shore, the men cheering for " Fort Garry." Xo men ever began an undertaking, notwith- standing the evil forebodnigs of croakers, with lighter hearts ; every man seemed as if he was embarking at Eichmond for a pleasure-trip on tlie river; and all, the private just as much as the ofHcer, appeared to take a real earnest interest in their work. They were pictures of good health and soldier-like condition. "Whilst stationed at Prince Arthur's Landing, and the other larger camps, the men had fresh meat, bread, and potatoes every day. No spirits were allowed throughout tlie journey to Fort Garry, but all ranks had daily a large ration of tea. This was one of the very few military ex- peditions ever undertaken by English troops where intoxicating liquor formed no part of the daily ration. It was an experiment based upon the practice common in Canada, where the lumbermen, who spend the whole winter in the backwoods, employed upon the hardest labour, and exposed to a freezing temperature, THE RED RIVER EXPEDITIOX. 273 wlien in ce on ii of the the few lie time ;art was 311 these le boats .' ''Fort lotwith- ?, with he was on tlie as the prest in th and Prince IS, the |iy day. ney to ration iiy ox- wheve nation. immon Id the n the lature. are allowed no spirits, bnt have an nnlimited quantity of tea. Our old-fashioned generals accept, without auy attempt to question its truth, the traditional theory of rum l)eing essential to keep British soldiers in health and humour. Let us hope that the ex- perience we have acquired during the Ked River Expedition may have buried for ever this old-fogyish superstition. Xever have the soldiers of any nation been called upon to perform more unceasingly hard work; and it may be confidently asserted, without dread of contradiction, that no men have ever been more cheerful or better behaved in every respect. Xo spirit - ration means no crime ; and even the doctors, who anticipated serious illness froui the absence of liquor, will allow that no troops have ever been healthier than -we were from the beginning to the end of the operation. "With the exception of slight cases of diarrhcea, arising from change of diet, it may be said that sickness was unknown amongst us. The same busy scene was repeated daily up to the 2d August, when the last detachment started. The weather had improved greatly, and remained good until nearly the end of August, when it again turned to rain. The exj^editionary force, from front to rear, covered the route for 150 miles ; but as arrangc^ments had been made for communicating and sending mess- ages either backwards or forwards, and as the officer commanding' the whole force travelled about in a bark ■b < : L. 274 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. !,ll II ' ,1 ! ;!ii !; canoe, well manned by Indians, gouv: from one de- tachment to another as he considered necessary, all Avere well in hand, and under his control for concentra- tion at any time, should circumstances have required it. The officer commanding each l)rigade had been furnished with a map of the route, which, although far from accurate, gave a sufficiently detailed delinea- tion of the country to enable them to steer their course by compass across the large lakes. AVe had been promised an ample supply of guides, but only very few were fortlicoming when required. The officer representing the Canadian Government with us, whose duty it was to have furnished them, found at the last moment that the Indians he had depended upon to act in this capacity held back, and refused the "job" upon all sorts of excuses. The 2:)riesthood of Canada being much opposed to this Expedition, had preached it down everywhere ; and there can be little doubt that priestly influence was brought to bear upon the Christian Indians settled near Fort AVilliam, to prevent them from acting as our guides. These Indians are partially civilised, many of them speak French, and a considerable pro- portion can write their own language in a character which has been invented especially for them. They live in houses clustered together on both banks of the Kaministiquia, a few miles above wdiere it falls into Lake Superior. The village, for such it may be called, is known as the " ^Eission," from th«' II THE RED RIVER EXPEDITION. 275 one (.I(j- sary, all ncentra- requirecl ad been ilthough delinea- ir course \d been ily very ernment :1 them, he had d back, es. The to tliis I'e; and .ce was settled actmg Ivilised, lie pro- aracter They .nks of Lt falls t may n the 1 Jesuit establishment there. They cultivate small patches of ground ; but their chief means of obtain- ing a livelihood is by hunting and fishing, and l^y -working for the Hudson I>ay Company as voyageurs on tlie inland rivers, transporting goods from one post to the others. This Exi)edition to Red River ■would have been a godsend to them if they had not been tampered with, as it would have afforded them lucrative employment. They know every river, lake, and portage in the country as far as Fort Francis ; and in previous years, when exploring and surve}'ing parties had been at work in their country, they had done good service in a most willing and cheerful manner. They are a simple-minded but very superstitious race, easily ruled by the Jesuit Father who has spent his life amongst them doing good. Rumour was busy at this village frightening them with stories of liiel's determination to fight, and of the great numbers of armed men at his back. These Christian Chippewahs have an extraordinary dread of war — so much so, tliat ■when we had reached Fort Francis, the few who did accompany us so far became terror-stricken l)y the warlike reports that Riel's emissaries had spread amongst the Indians in that district, and ])ositively refused to go any fartlier. When a little coercion was tried by telling them that we could not afford to give them any provisions to take them back to their homes unless they kept with us, they bewailed their ) I I 1 1 ' i ' I M:^:! I; J \ : ii : ' 1 ;' ;'■■ l.i i j i ,,.i. ! 1 ii' 276 TRAVEL, ADVf:NTURE, AND SPORT. fate, many of tliom with tears, saying tliey Avould risk anytliing sooner tlian go on wliere there was to ho figliting — tlieir determination was not to he shaken hy any argnments or i)romises. 'J'lie warlike cliaracter- istics for wliicli tlie Xorth American Indian was so celeljrated, if they are faitlifully descrihed in " liia- watlia " and Cooper's novels, have disappeared even from the once celehrated tril)e of Irroqnois. Of this latter race we liad a considerahle numher as voyagenrs, a large proportion of whom were most anxious to tnrii back from Fort Francis when they heard the startling accounts of tlie nundjer of Kiel's followers, and of his determination to fight. Their minds were only to ha quieted by assuring them of tlic falseness of tliesc rumours. Shehandowan Lake, about 20 miles long and a few wide, running in a ^V. by X. direction, has no strik- ing features to distinguish it from thousands of other lakes in Canada. It lias about the same proportion of islands, and the same cliffless shore common to nearly all of them. ^Vs it is almost at the summit level forming the watershed between the basins of the St Lawrence and the rivers wliich flow into Hud- son Lay, no mountains abut upon it, although there are some hills in the distance. The north side had been burnt over for miles inland, where blackened trunks stood up against the sky-line as one viewed tlie shore from tlie boats. For miles raspberry -bushes liad taken tlie place of the destroyed forest, the fruit m SIS M THE KED KIVER EXrEDITION. •J77 aild risk IS to bo taken l)y laracter- wa.s so 1 ^'Ilia- ed even Of this yageurs, to turn startling d of liis ly to be )f these A a few strik- )f otJier portion mon to ummit sins of liud- tliere le liad kened ,'i(nved )uslies fruit of wliich supplied a good supper to tlie several dt»- tachments tliat had to spend the evening there. Tlu^ southern side is thickly wooded with very poor tinil)er, [loplar being the prevailing tree ; indeed there is so iinK'li rock and so little soil everywhere in tliis vicinity, that it is only wonderful how anything can grow. A portage of al)Out three-quarters of a mile took us into another lake about 8 miles long, our c(jurse over which was due north ; Lac des ^lille Lacs was reached from it by a portage of over a mile in length. The latter is a curiously-shaped and straggling expanse of wattn*, ill wliich there are islands witliout number, many being of sufficient size to have great bays stretching for miles into them. One island so closely resembles another that it is wonderful hoAV any of us found our way over the 20 miles to ha travelled before we reached the next portage. Even the brigade, fur- iiislied with the most experienced guides, strayed sometimes for hours out of their course. Steerinix solely by the compass took one repeatedly into these large bays ; and nothing is more disheartening than finding one's self in a rid dc sac after a 2:)ull for many miles up one of these bays, and having to row^ back again to search for another passage. Immediately as we passed out of this lake Ave had the stream with us all the rest of our voyage. Having steered for about the first 5 miles over this lake a X.W. course, the general direction for inore than 100 miles is 8.AV. : a slight detour is then made Hi VOL. I. T 11 ii! !! i; !l : I i i i '! 278 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SrORT. to the south, and tlio rest of the journey as far a.s Fort Francis is in a X.AV. direction. AVe shall not weary the reader with descriptions of the many lakes and rivers and dreary portages passed over during the journey, but in order to give a general idea of the country, we shall divide it into three sections : the first, Ijetween Shebandowan and Fort Francis ; the second, from thence to Fort Alex- ander ; and the third, from that place to Fort Garry, the objective point of the Expedition. The first section is a dreary region — unfit, from its sterile barrenness, for man's habitation. Iiock, water, and stunted trees everywhere. When it was neces- sary to pitch tents, we seldom found enough soil for the pegs to support them, and were forced to use large stones instead. The surface is covered with moss, which in some places was so thick that, with a blanket rolled round one, our bivouac had all the softness of a luxurious spring bed. The blueberry- bushes were in full fruit as we went along, affording us many a good meal, and enabling us to vary the usua] menu of salt-pork and biscuit. AVe met nu- merous families of Indians, who thronged round Our boats begging for provisions. They were an intoler- able nuisance, and so very dirty that their presence gives one a sort of creeping sensation. It was curious to see them arrive at a portage, a family travelling generally in two or three canoes. The lord and master would step ashore, pull his canoe up, and shouldering ; [:■ THE KEl) IIIVEK EXPEDITIOX. 270 T^- «« ) ; 1 \ J liis gun woiikl stalk olY to the other side, leaving his wife or wives, as the case might he, ixnd })erhaps liis luotlier, to carryover the canoes and all theii worldly '^oods. We were once pointed out an old woman who some years ago had supported life, Avhen in a starving con- dition, hy eating human flesh — l)y no means an ex- traordinary or unusual occurrence amongst those people when in such straits. 8h(3 was eertainly a most loathsome creature to look at ; her face was so deeply wrinkled, and the wrinkles so full of dirt, that slie seemed as if tattooed. AVe generally spared these poor creatures a little from our rati(m : whatever we gave them was put into a pot, in which was l)oiled together pork, Hour, l)lue- herries, tisli, hiscuit, i^'C, ^c. Xo two things C(tuld he too inconij:ruous to be l)oil(Ml at the same time. They never roast, grill, or stew, hoiling being their sole idea t)f the culinary art. 1'hey were very fond of the water in which the pork was boiled, drinking it freely, as if it was some delicious beverage. They generally carried in their canoes a fish -skin bottle tilled Avith sturgeon -oil, of which they took copious draughts at times. The women wear their hair in <^ne long plait hanging down behind, the men in two, very often joined at the ends. So very beardless arc the men, that when one meets a canoe with Indians sitting in it, there might often be difficulty in distin- guishing the sexes, if it were not for this variety in ■-i^n" M ii 11 1 ill. 280 TllAVEL, ADVEXTUKE, AND SPORT. tli(3 nuiiiltcr of |>laits with wliicli tlioy arc ^v>//)'.«,. Tliu Wftriu'ii uhviiys wear k*^'giM«j;s from the knee to tlic ankle, witli a petticoat reaching to tlie calf of the leg ; an open cloth jacket, witli a sort of boddice snpportiMl hy 1 (races over the slioiilders, completes their costume. The men were generally clothed in woollen garments, mostly of ([uaint old-fashioned patterns purchased at the Hudson Bay posts. Having become accustomed to the coats made in the style common here a hundred years ago, the Indians will not purchase those of any other pattern ; so that the Company, who have their tailoring done in London, liave to get the clothes they require for exportation made accordingly. Unlike their squawks, they almost always wear some sort of shirt ; and although they are frecpiently without trousers, they never, from earliest boyhood, go without a breech-cloth. They seldom or never build a hut of even the roughest description, living, as their ances- tors have done for centuries, in wigwams made with birch-bark stretched over poles driven into the grou 1 in a circle, and all meeting at the toj5. An aperture is left to serve as a chimney, for they light a fire and cook Avithin during cold weather. The space left as a door is closed by a curtain. Altogether it is a cold residence in a climate where the Fahrenheit thermo- meter ranges for months from zero to many degrees below it. During the whole of our journey to Fort Francis w^e seldom had a favourable wind. Althoucrh this >i I THE RED RIVER EXrKDITIOX. 2S1 \. 's. The to tllC ihe leg ; ppnrt(.'(| ostume. riiicnts, ased at istoiiicd lundrt'd of any ^'e tlicir es they ke their I shirt ; rou.sers, hoiit a hut of anccs- e with grou. 1 3ertur«' ire and left as a cold liernio- legrees .^rancis i\\ this iulded greatly to our lahour at the oar, still it Mew us line weather. Easterly winds in these regions hring till) evaporati(tns from the great lakes, whieh Itreak into heavy showers of rain agiunst the hills forming the height of land. Most of the rain we had fell at ni'^ht ; and if we occasionally had a wet bivouac, wood was i)lentiful, and we were ahle to dry ourselves easily hefore large lires. Xow ;ind then we got a slant of wind, and when the; weather was tine; there were ample materials for the artist's brush, the whiti^ sails standing out so well against the dark-green foliage connnon to every island and shore throughout the route. The only difficult and dangerous rapids in this sec- tion were on the Sturgeon liiver, whert; extreme care is necessary in running them. A nundier of Iri'oipiois wer permanently stationed there until all the troops had gone by, who took dinvn every Ijoat, only one being totally wrecked. It is a tini; sight to watch these splendid boa ' len taking a boat down a rapid. Four generally rtjweu )r paddled ; two others steered, with large-sized paddles — one in the bow, the other in the stern. The post of honour is in the bow ; and it was curious to see liow their eyes sparkled witii liery enthusiasm as they a^'proached the roaring, seething waters, where the l>reaking of a paddle, or a false movement of any sort, would send the avIkjIc crew to certain d \'itli. They seemed thoroughly at home at the most tvyirig moment ; for there is generally in all ■1 ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) <- ^i^ 'S? 1.0 1.1 ■ 50 ""^^ 2.5 2.2 M 12.0 K |l.25 1 ,.4 ,,.6 < 6" ► V] y] ^;. '/ Ov^lol cl ^C!yO Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) S72-4S03 ^ ^ ^ «■ ^ i! i ft 282 TIIAVEL, ADVEXTUIJK, AND SPOKT. i ! n ! rapids one particular s}»ot — perhaps wliere soino back eddy from a rock tends to suck in everytliing that aji- proaches — tliat is tlic climax of the dan-^'er, which, if passed safely, the rest is easy sailini;-. 'J'he intensity of the look with which they regard the rushing water in front of them whilst every fd)re in their powerful frames is at its utmost tension, is a thing to be ad- mired, l)ut not to be descri1)ed in words, nor even on canvas. There is a mixture of extreme, almost un- earthly, enjoyment, alloyed with a realisation of the danger to l)e encountered, in their expression, which we never remember havimj; seen in anv face before, except in the countenance of soldiers at the hottest moment of a storming-party. It Ijespoke the earnest- ness of men prepared to dare anytliing, and who jijloried and revelled in the attendant dauLjer. Our daily routine was as follows : At the first streak of daylight (occasionally long before it) the rheUJn was sounded, followed (puckly by a cry of " Fort Garry " from every tent or bivouac tire. This was the watchword of the force, as " Arms, men, and canoes " (" Anna virumque cano ") was the punning moiio adopted for us by our witty cliaplahi. Tents were struck and stowed away in the l)oats, and all were soon on board and workin!:^ hard at the oar. We halted for an hour at 8 a.m. for breakfast, and again for another hour for dinner at 1 p.m., and finally for the night about 6 or 7 p.m. It was surprising, after the first wreck's practice, to see the rapidity with first THE RED lilVEII EXI'EDITIOX. L>83 whicli thu men cot.kfd: tlu-y 4iiickly becainc most (Xpert at lightiiiL,' fires, cuttinLj down tn-es, iVc, ^Vc. Thf sun soon burnt tlieni a dark colour : indeed some beeame nearly black, tbe rellection froi^i the water liaviu'^ a verv bronzinij; eirect ui)on tli(» skin. Tilt' ^vcar and tear uj)()n tlieir clothes »vas cxc<'ssive : larryin.u- loads on their backs toi-c thcii' shirts and cuats, whilst the constant friction from rowing soon wore large holes in their trousers, which, being patched with canvas from the bags in whicli the l^eans or otlujr provisions had been carried, gave them a most motley appearance. Leading a sort of aniphil)ious life, they Were well nicknamed the " canvas - backed ducks." This constant pulling was very monotonous employ iiient ; but we had a goal to reach, and all felt that everv stroke of the oar brought us nearer to it. Tlie long portages were most trying to the pluck and endurance of our men, and it is very ([uestionable whether the soldiers of any other nation M'ould or could have gone through the same amount of phys- ical labour that fell to our lot daily. It is upon such occasions that we learn to appreciate the full value of the ]]ritish officer. He may be idle in peace, but the very amusements of his idle hours — boating, shooting, hunting, cricket, c^'c, t^'c. — lit hhii to Gliine, wdien hi\rd work has to be done, ui a manner that would be impossible to the officers of most other armies. Our officers carried barrels of pork and other loads on their backs like the men ; and the emulation ? ■ i ( 1 ll , i?l 11 . ■ » i •"%*' 13 ' 284 TliAVEL, ADVENTUKE, AND SPOKT. iiif '! and riviilry iM'twccii tlie captains of companies, each beinj; afraid that lie sliould l)e passed in tlie race, soon S2)rea(l to all ranks. You had oidy to tell a any hurried on until those in the immediate front were overtaken. Indeed it may be said that each detach- ment trod ui)on the heels of the one before it, all Were so eager to get on. At some shallow places the men had to get into the water, and pull their boats along after them. Occasionally it was necessary to un- load them i)artially or entirely, the boats being then run down rajnds, or hauled over the shallow spots into deep water, where they were reloaded, their cargoes being carried along the banks by the soldiers. At times it blew very hard from the west, so that many detachments were detained orxC or two days on some of the large lakes, unable even to start. A voyage ^V. by N. of forty miles across Eainy I ! ill THE KED KIVER EXPEDITION. 28.1 Laku takes you to Ilainy JJivcr, upon tlic right l^ank of Avhich stands 1m nt Francis, tw(j miles froui tlie lake. The leading detaclnnent reached this jiost on the 4th August. They liad done two hundred miles ill nineteen days, having taken tlieir hoats, stores, iVc, vVc, over seventeen portages in that time, and having made a good practicable road at all these seventeen places. The troops in rear of them were able to make the journey (juicker, as they found a made road and rollers laid down for the boats at every portage. Fort Francis, a Hudson ]>ay Company trading-post, is exactly due west from Shebandowan Lake. It is a collection of one-storied wooden Iniildings surrounded 1)y palisading. Although dignified by the high-sound- im: title of fort, it has no militarv works whatevt-r about it. The river bends here, so that immediately in front of the place is a very tine fall, aljout twenty- two feet in height, from below which the broken, Itoiling, bubbling waters send up volumes of spray, coverhig the land, according to the direction of th«' wind, with a perpetually-fallhig rain, j'his, and the luxuriant fertility of the soil, causes the banks near it to be clothed with grass of the brightest green, allbrding the richest of pasture. After the wilderness of water, rock, and scrubby wood that we had passed through, the sight of cattle grazing, and of ripe wheat bending before the lightest wind from the heaviness of the ear, was most refreshing. Only a few acres were under cultivation, although there was a consider- M II II It HR i^ii n 2SG TRAVEL, ADVENTUIiE, AND SPORT. able clearance; and a lar^^'c extent covered with bushes bore evidence to there having been liere at one time a g(jod-.sized farm. There was a garden close to the dwelling-house, wliere there were peas, potatoes, and onions growing, and apparently going to waste, until we arrived to partake of them. A mill for grinding corn had once existed here, there being water-power f^nough on the spot to drive every mill in America, but it had disappeared. There was an air of decay and neglect about the whole place that bespoke cither poverty or want of energy on the part of those in charge. The half-breed race to which the officers of the Hudson Bay Company at such posts generally belong now is extremely apathetic — there is no go-aheadness about it ; and in these out-of-th( - way localities the half-breeds quickly go back to the manners, customs, and mode of living of their Indian mothers. They live upon fish as their Indian an- cestors did, and, like them, have no appreciation of the value of cleanliness or order. By the rules of the Company it is compulsory to have at each post an ice-house, a garden, and a few cows ; so they have them, but they seem to care for none of these things. The fertile belt of land along the north bank of Eainy Eiver is only about a mile in width, great swamps existing between it and the chain of lakes which lies to the northward. There had been a large Indian encampment here during the early part of TIIL IJED rJVEU EXrEDITIOX. •287 July, it beiii^i,' a great annual resort for tlic siurouml- ing tribes ; but tliis summer, as tlicy expected our arrival amongst them, they had collected from all ([Uarters in the hope of obtaining i>resents. They also wished to appear imposing l)y their luimbers, so as to enhance the value (»f their goodwill towards us, and to impress u[)on the white-faced soldier Imw formidable they might be as enemies. Unfortuiiately for the success of their intentions, we were not ablo to start for at least six weeks after the time origin- ally i)roposed for our departure from Shebandowan ; so that as days wore on and there was no sign of our arrival, the crowd grew weary of waiting, par- ticularly as the supply of fish in the neighbourhood l)ecame exhausted, there being so many uKniths to feed. The Government had early in the preceding winter sent a gentleman to Fort Francis for the pur- pose of keeping the Indians of that district ns at the time, although indicative of declining power on his part, were hy no means sulHciently rea-suring or jx'aecahle in their tone to warrant any lepsirture from all military pre- (•autit>ns by us. Onh^rs were therefore given to the leading detachments to apin-oach Kat l'(»rtage, at the entrance to AVinnipeg liiver, w^ith the greatest care, and to take measures for guarding against surprise or ainhush, as it was a very likely place for an attack, should Kiel mean fighting. The iirst detachment having arrived at Fort Francis on the -ith of August, and portaged its hoats, ifee., round the falls there, started airain that same afternoon. III. In the last chapter we described the advance of the expeditionary troops as far as Fort Francis, and endeavoured to convey to the reader a general idea of the country in the first of the three sections VOL. I. u 1! • %i~M.. 294 TRAVEL, ADVEXTUIIE, AND SPORT. into wliich we divided the entire distance between Sliebandowan Lake and Fort Garry. The second section begins at Fort Francis, wliere tlie leading detachment arrived, as previonsly stated, on the 4tli August, starting again tliat same after- noon. A garrison of one company of militia was left for the protection of the hospital, bakery, and depot of stores established there, and to ensure our communications being kept open through the Chip- pewah territories. Although these Indians had been hitherto very friendly, there was no saying when they might give us trouble, particularly if they saw large quantities of that much-coveted article, flour, stored in their very midst without a sufficient guard to protect it. Indians have great appetites, and are always hungry — and hungry men are ever more or less dangerous. Our voyage down Rainy Eiver was most enjoyable. As we pushed off from shore below the falls at Fort Francis, we were twisted round for some time in every direction by the numerous whirl- pools formed by the falling of such a great body of water into a circular basin, where it acquired a rotary motion. At one moment a boat was going at the rate of about nine miles an hour, and the next it was perfectly stationary, having stopped without any shock, but as suddenly as if it had struck a rock. In some instances minutes elapsed ere the utmost exertion at the oar, the whole crew pulling their best, could impart the least motion to the boats. between >, where T stated, le after- itia was ery, and sure our le Clii]>- lad been Lg when ihey saw le, flour, nt guard , and are more or iver was re below ound for His whirl- body of a rotary g at the next it lout any a rock, utmost ng their .e boats. i THE IIED EIVER EXPEDITIOX. 20: They seemed as if h