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A SOUVENIR OK TIIK I ntercolonial Railway THK POPULAR AND SCENIC ROUTE OF CANADA OTTAWA GOVERNMENT PRINTING BUREAU 1896 ,:)-0:^- ,->■■ ■ '.* ^ 1 Sunday Service Parade, Halifax, N.S.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. SOMETHING ABOUT EXCURSIONS. • ^ MERTCA is a land of humorists, and the exceeding humour of its people shines forth in their habits of life. Life was made to be enjoyed, and they enjoy it whether the sun shines or not. Not that they are an idle people, for they are notoriously the reverse, but that they pass through ordeals which would test even the jol- lity of Mark Tapley, and profess themselves delighted amid their afflictions. In other words, a man of business will work hard for ten or eleven months of the year, and then, with the idea that he needs rest and recreation, will put himself and his family through a course of sprouts fearful to contemplate. This course of sprouts is humorously termed a fashionable pleasure excursion. It consists in a season of preparation and packing, of setting forth "to join the innumerable cara.an," and of several weeks of wretched unrest amid the dust, heat, crush and confusion of some popular resort where it is the correct thing for every one to go. There is no Dock Yard, Halifax — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. little humour in all this. Thoy seek freedom from restraint, and go to a vortex of fashion ; they seek quiet, and are mingled in a Babel ; they seek rest, and at the close of each day are ready to drop with fatigue. Gasping amid crowds on the hottest days, packed in overflowing hotels during the sultry nights, swindled by hackmen, bored by guides, pestered by humbugs, tormented by flies — crushed, wilted, worried, driven half mad — they, with infinite humour, term all this, pleasure ! Amid such a scene, while lying half-stifled in a small, but high-priced cell, near the eaves of some large but well-crowded hotel, the weary traveller kicks the drapery of his couch from around him, and lies down to troubled dreams. Amid them come visions of a land which lies by the sea, and is fanned by cooling breezes from the ocean. In this land are green hills, shady groves and fertile valleys. From the distant mountains the crystal brooks come leaping with the music of gladness, and join with noble rivers in whose clear waters dwell lordly salmon and scarce less lordly trout. Near at hand are forests, as yet so little disturbed that the moose, caribou and bear, now and again visit the farm-yards of the adjacent settlements and gaze in bewildered surprise at the man whose hand is raised to slay them. Along the shore, for hundreds of miles, lie land- Entrance to Paik, Halifax, N,S.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. BSS ' locked harbours where even the frail bark canoe may float in safety, yet upon the waters of the ocean ; and upon the smooth sand beaches of which even a child may venture into the buoyant salt-water and fear not. In this country is scenery at times of sweet pastoral simplicity ; at times of sublime grandeur. It is a land where civilization has made its way, and yet not marred the beauty of Nature. It is a country where the traveller sated with an excess of con- ventional " excursions " will find much that is novel, much that will charm, and much that will ever remain to him as a sweet remembrance of a pleasant clime. " Ah ! " sighs the dreamer, " would that such a lot were mine. Such places there may be, but where are they 1 My guide books tell not of them. To find them one must abandon the comforts of daily life, go far beyond reach of daily mails and telegrams, become isolated from the busy world, and live hundreds of miles from the confines of civilization." Not so. You have perhaps been down the St. Lawrence as far as Quebec, from which, as the ultima Thule of your excursion, you returned to your home. Take your map and trace that line which leads from Quebec down the Lower St. Lawrence across to New Brunswick, and down its coast to Nova Scotia, Halifax, N.S., fn)in Citadel, looking S. E.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 11 where it ends at the City of Halifax. To the east and west arms reach out to Pictou, Sydney and St. John, and another branch traverses Prince Edward Island. This is the Intercolonial Railway — " The People's Railway" — one of the most substantially constructed and best equipped lines in the world. It runs through hundreds of miles of just such a country as has been mentioned. Pleasure and sport may be enjoyed in numberless places and yet the traveller will be within the reach of daily mails and the telegraph, and may live like a prince at a very moderate outlay. It is the land for which you Have sighed ; try it and be convinced. !-0 4 '■ ' 1 S n H I St. Louis Gate, Quebec. 1 i THE CITY OF QUEBEC. The Northern Terminus of the Intercolonial Railway. UEBEC is a restful place, and fitting point from which to enter upon a land which offers rest. It is unique among the cities of the con- tinent. Could one forget his past and live only in the thought of his surroundings, he might imagine himself dropped down in some corner of Europe. To him who has come from the busy cities of the south and west, everything is strange and new. Other places anticipate the future ; Quebec clings fondly to the past. It is well that it should be so, for, in this practical and prosaic age, but few cities retain the halo of romance that surrounded them in their early years. New York may afford to grow wealthy and forget New Amsterdam, but the Quebec of to-day reminds one at every turn of the Ancient Capital as it was in the centuries that are dead and gone. ■— Lju. ..Ji . mm^m ii .kH'^ St. George's iHland (Ftntified), Entrance Halifax Harbour- Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 15 The man who has read the story of Quebec, and is prone to attach a senti- ment to the ancient and historic city, should have his first view from the water or opposite shore. There he will see the stronghold as it has been pictured to him and as he has dreamed of it. The cliffs, the citadel, the spires, the tin roofs glistening in the sunlight, — all seem very real to him, and he longs to enter the city so rich in the legends of the past. There is so much to be seen that only the local guides can point it out, and even they are often sadly lacking. Everywhere are monuments of a strange and eventful history. Yonder is the Basilica, or French cathedral, begun in 1647, when gay Louis XIV. was king, and the star of France shed a bright light over the eastern and western worlds. The edifice v^as consecrated in 1666, and with the exception of the church at St. Augustine, Florida, is the oldest on the continent. There are treasures within its walls, apart from the golden vest- ments and rich ornaments, some of which have been the gifts of kings. There are here rare paintings, some of them dating back to the time when French art received a new impetus under the protection of Henry IV. ; and there, too, is pur Saviour on the Cross, by Van Dyck. In the troublous times of France, when neither art nor religion were held sacred, faithful hands guarded these of Canada. I Hi % View ill Public Gardens, Halifax, N.S. — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 17 pictures and placed them beyond the reach of the vandal mob. Later, they were brought to the new world and placed within the old cathedral, and there it is fitting they should ever remain. Of a truth we tread historic ground. We are within the wall of one of the most notable cities \n America — one of the most famous places in the world. There are cities which are more fair to look upon ; there are some which the mere pleasure seeker esteems more highly ; and there are many which have distanced it in the march of progress. There is but one Quebec, — old, quaint | Baie des Chaleurs — following for miles the curves of the bay, each bend reveal- I'' 1^ ing a scene of ever-changing beauty. Leaving the sea-shore it follows the ■¥■ windings of the Restigouche and Metapedia — now dashing wildly along an reached l)y the I i 1 : I '^1 n ^f . St. John, N.B., Harbour and Water Front — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. J0 lada. 27 overhanging declivity with the foam-crested waters of the rushing river below — by and by approaching a chasm only to dart across an iron causeway setting I aside the barriers of nature — here are towering hills, looking to-day, despite a garment of snow, dark and threatening, but to-morrow the buds upon countless trees will be the harbingers of a luxuriant summer's foliage. Away to tiie i, north speeds the train until it reaches the shores of the mighty St. Lawrence, 'I where every mile presents an ever-changing panorama of river scenery. Many fr railroads, more talked about, possess far less charms than the Intercolonial. It ' is not a tid-bit of scenic picturesqueness here and there — such as has served to make the fortune in tourist travel of many a railroad ; but a constant presenta- tion of such scenery until it culminates in the magnificent view which suddenly breaks upon the sight as the tourist approaches the ancient capital of Canada. The Isle of Orleans in the centre of the river with a wide stretch of water on , -either side; the towering heights of Montmorency with the mighty falls tumbling into the still mightier St. Lawrence ; the ancient city of Quebec with its myriad of tin roofs reflecting the dazzling sunlight ; the towering height capped by "the historic citadel which still holds the key of the St. Lawrence ; the Plains of Abraham beyond, whereon was fought that mighty battle upon which the fate •of the continent depended ; the majestic river bearing upon its bosom not '§ I'.ajid Rotuiuia, opposite Prince's Lodge, near Halifax, N. 8. -Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 29 Luilway of Caiuvda. merely a crowd of pleasure crafts, but a merchant fleet gathered from all nations, command universal admiration." " The seasons come and go with their noticeable changes, l)ut none are more perceptible than those to be seen while travelling over the Intercolonial Railway of Canada. This railway furnishes to the general traveller all the comforts and conveniences of modern invention, while the pleasure-seeker, fisherman and sportsman find few if any equals. Its summer resorts and places of interest are quite numerous, as it penetrates that portion of Quebec and tlie Maritime Provinces so noted for game of all kinds in great abundance. Quel;ec, old, quaint and romantic — noted for its ancient structures as well as modern improvements, is on the line of this road. The traveller in his journey over this famous route for hundreds of miles intersects with an abundance of noted rivers, cascades, cataracts and scenery of vast and romantic beauty, such as cannot be found anywhere else — not even in the great Yosemite Valley of owr icestern country. The hotels which furnish homes for tourists or business men, are second to none, their tables laden with fish, game, and ever3'thing the appetite can crave. The dyspeptics and invalids cannot find elsewhere the health restora- tives that nature supplies in the forests and fields of these provinces. The ;1 i ■ I ■ ■f , si* Monument to Heroes of Nova Scotia, Halifax, N. S. —Intercolonial Railway of Canada. t ,■ 31 of Caiifida- i traveller over this great line of road is brought to the proud old city of Quebec, one of the most noted in the world, and here has an opportunity to visit the Heights of Abraham, where the great battle between the French under Mont- calm and the British under Gen. Wolfe occurred, in which both commando"* were killed. No more delightful or interesting trip could be taken, as it passes through a land rich in the materials of history, romance and poetry. The line of road connects the famous cities of Quebec, St. John and Halifax, passing through a great many other historical points of which we have not made mention. The management of this colossal thoroughfare has been such as to place it ])eyond criticism. Its patrons receive such attention as to warrant their implicit faith in the road." The journey over the Intercolonial Railway begins at Levis on the opposite side of the river from Quebec City, and for the next two hundred miles or so, the traveller passes through a purely French Canadian country. One after another the typical villages come into view with their low-lying buildings and quaint cottages, built to withstand the keenest cold of winter. In the midst of these looms up the church, usually a substantial edifice of stone, while here and there a large wayside cross, on some distant hill, stands out in bold relief 1 1 ' '1 i\ r ' I 1 t - fl. f; ■ Vi(;tc)nii Park, Truro, N.S. -Interculouial Railway of Canada. 33 igainst the sky. A quiet people are these habitants of the Lower St. Lawrence, fimple in their tastes, primitive in their ways, having an abiding devotion to liheir mother tongue and mother church. A drive of five miles from St. Paschal Station brings one to Kamouraska, % village beautifully situated on the shore of the St. Ljiwrence. It is located on a point which reaches seaward, and has a line, well sheltered sand beach l^out half a mile in length. It has great natural advantages, and the bathing is especially good. A number of picturesque islands in the vicinity afford additional pleasures to boating parties. Riviere du Loup is a summer resort of long established reputation. A tong and somewhat hilly road leads from the station to what, though apparently impart of the village, is known as Fraserville. Beyond this again is the St. Lawrence, with its splendid priv'leges for bathing, boating, shooting and fishing, in the proper seasons. Most of the leading men of Canada, including the Governor General, spend portions of their summer here. Steamers furnish opportunities for visiting the more notable watering pfeces on the northern shore. Mention may be made of Murray Bay and im' ^ u if I hi* '^m m r 'j Beach at Cacouna, Que. — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. •Wf :\') . ,^3'f''dousac, but by far the most wonderful sight for the touiist is the famed fcSBaguenay River. It is one of the most remarkable of nature's works in a con- aitinent where natural wonders abound. Six miles below Riviere du Loup is Cacolna Station. The name has a musical sound, but as seen from the cars there is little to attract the eve. The Cacouna of which the pleasure seeker is in search is about two miles distant, and is reached by an easy drive over the smooth highway that descends to the shore. Then this great watering place of the Lower St. Lawrence invites ihe stranger to tarry and rest. With the mountains on one side and an arm of the sea on the other the air is very pure. It is so clear that one can scarcely . ;^elieve the opposite shore is twenty-one miles away, but it is fully that in a ''Ijtraight line to the mouth of the Saguenay. So near do the distant hills seem that one might feel tempted to start for them with nothing more than a boat nd a pair of oars. ?. i*M ^ village on the low land by the shore, with mountains separating it from %he country beyond, confronted the engineers when they sought to locate the line of the Intercolonial at a point fifty-five miles below Riviere du Loup. It ;was Bic, then as now well termed " the Beautiful," an artist's paradise. -*- ^J--'""' Little Metis, (Quebec, on the Intercolcjiiial Railway of Canada. 37 The mountains are around it, and it nestles at their feet amid a wealth of beautiful scenery. There is a harbour in which an ocean steamer may ride, a haven in which vessels may hide from the wrath of the storm-king, llomantic isles lie amid the waters, and crags of rugged beauty rear their heads around s the bay. Pleasant beaches tempt the bather ; placid waters invite the boat- ifiman ; and beauty everyv/here summons the idler from his resting place to drive *or ramble in its midst. Little Metis is situated on the shore of the St. Lawrence, at a point where the estuary begins to widen out so that the opposite shore is a faint line in the distance and much of the horizon is as level as upon the ocean. This gives the place more the air of a seaside resort than many less favoured watering ^places, and the salt waves rolling in upon the sandy beach confirm the impres- sion. The beach is about four miles long, hard, smoo^^^h and safe for bathers. The scenery is varied and attractive. One may drive for miles along the shore and enjoy the panorama and the sea breeze until weary. Inland are beautiful vales, nooks, and brooks, and charming bits of landscape. Drives may be had ifat a small expense. One of these is to the Falls, seven miles away. Leaving the St. Lawrence, the course of the traveller is south to the Metapedia Valley. Thousands are now familiar with it where huiid"pds had it ' ^1 v: I! Martello Tower, St. .John, N.B.— Intercolonial Kidhvay of Canada. ■\ft: 39 heard of it in other years. It has attractions for all. Those who seek the beautiful in Nature may here find it, while those who are disciples of Nimrod or Walton will find the days only too short, and the weeks passing away all too swiftly. The name Metapedia is said to denote musical waters, and the title is well deserved. Through the green valley the river winds in graceful curves, sing- ing the music of the waters as it runs. In thirty miles of its course it has 22.2 rapids, great and small, now swift and deep, now gently rippling over beds of shining gravel and golden sand. Here and there are the deeper pools in which lurk salmon of astounding size, for this is one of the salmon streams of which every fisherman has heard. For mile after mile the traveller watches the course of the river, so strangely pent in by the mountains on either hand, rising in every shape which mountains can assume. Some are almost perfect cones ; and others •! 1 -e such gentle slopes that one feels he would like to stroll leisurely upward i - ^' e summit, but the height, as a rule, is from six hundred to eight hundred feei In some places in the Metapedia, the river, the highway and the railway crowd each other for a passage, so narrow is the valley. Here Switzerland lives in miniature amid the mountains, while England and Scotland are around the lakes, streams and springy heather. I ¥*!• '?: "I Little Jack after he killed his first Salmon 41 The last of the Metapedia River is seen at the village which bears the same . aame, at the junction of the Restigouche. It is a place of singular beauty, ! and the eye lingers lovingly on the beautiful panorama as it passes from the ' Ifiew and the train rushes onward to the boundary of New Brunswick. Here I we catch sight of the River Restigouche, spanned by a beautiful and substantial railway bridge, over a thousand feet in length. The river is thickly dotted ' Irith low-lying islands, rich with meadow land, their hues of green contrasting ; finely with the silver surface of the river. In truth, this part of the road is a : ittccession of bright pictures, a panorama wherein are shown some of nature's r »ire3t scenes. Campbellton, the first stopping place in New Brunswick, is a village with jpreat possibilities. It is a summer resort, with every facility for salt-water lathing, salt-water fishing, and a good time generally. The situation is beau- liful, because Campbellton lies at a point where a broad and beautiful river I'^ites with the waters of a bay which has no rival in America. Little Jack is the son of Mr O. A.. Barberie, Agent at Campbellton, New Brunswick, for the Intercolonial Railway. Mr. Barberie is a veteran sports- I inian and an enthusiastic follower of both the rod and the gun, but we think that , . ^aiy ■•"" i^-.irsan''" 1,1 'I f St. John, N. B.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. i 43 the rod is his best gir'l. That the son, though only 10 years of age, is a chip of the old block goes without saying, and in due time the father will find son Jack turning the governor down on all sporting points, and we imagine we can hear the worthy parent say, " Well, boys, I never met my match until I raised one. Jack's feat in connection with the picture herein occurred on 5th August, 1895, in the waters of the "Camp PEarmony's Angling Club," when he hooked and bnmglit to gati' within 12 minutes, a 14 lb. salmon, using an 8 oz. rod, and handling his rod like any veteran sportsman without exhibiting the slightest evidence of excitement. With the aid of his imagination, he increased wonder- fully in his avoirdupois, in the morning, or before he killed his fish, he weighed 60 lbs., and in the evening, when in camp, said he thought he weighed 200 lbs. Jack's admirers, and there are many, say they feel safe in claiming that this achievement of Jack's is the finest bit of fishing ever accomplished by a boy of Jack's age and normal weight. One of the fairest spots on the line of the Intercolonial is found at Dal- HOUSiE. Even when this place was not connected with the railroad, it attracted large numbers of visitors, and now that it is so easy of access it is one of the 1 H' I J I' I €j ill •I -\ M!, ,]r 45 most popular of sunimer resorts. Its location at the mouth of the Restigouche, where the glorious Baie des Chaleurs begins, would in any event make the site one of unusual beauty. Fine beaches and water of moderate temperature tempt the bather. The sheltered position of the place gives it a freedom from raw winds, and fog, that terror of so many tourists, is never known around this. shore. The Baie des Chaleurs is one of the most beautiful havens in America. Ninety miles long and from fifteen to twenty-five wide, there cannot be found in its waters either rock or other hindrance to the safe passage of the largest of ships. For many miles the Intercolonial Railway runs close to the shore, and few fairer sights are to be seen than the broad and beautiful expanse of water with its numerous little inlets on the New Brunswick side and the lofty and imposing mountains rising grandly on the shore of Quebec. On a summer day, with a gentle breeze rippling the smooth surface of the water, the yachtsman feels that he has at last found the object of his dreairu There is no finer yachting bay on the North Atlantic coast. N U '. ■(■- ; ■V '3 St. John City, N.B.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. #' ^WgK BAIE DES CIIALKURS TO GASPE BASIN. HE land of Gaspk is out of the route of i^eneral travel, and is con- setjuently out of the rut of the hackneyed excursion trips through Canada. It has not a promising look on the face of the map and the tourist who has not l(>arned something about the country in advance will be voj'y likely to seek his summ<^r outing in parts of the land which seem more abundant in places and people. If he does so, he will miss very much that is of the rarely :■ 51 after the dispersion of their race in Acadia. More than nine-tenths of the residents are of Acadian descent, while French is the language spoken by all, and exclusively by many. The wealthiest land owner here, however, the pro- prietor of a fine old manor house, is not of that race. In recent years, too, English residents of Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec, have spent their vacation here, and several typical summer cottages already dot the shore, while more are to be built. A prominent Ottawa physician sends patients here to enjoy an air that is not so strong as that further down the coast, while the bathing is all that can be desired. The water here is warmer than it is where there is a wider stretch of sea, and the beach is excellent. Along these shores occasional valuable finds of " Gaspe pebbles/' in the form of various coloured jaspers and agates, are made. Among the salmon rivers of note between the Restigouche and Gaspe basin are the Little Cascapedia, Bonaventure, Grand and Little Pabos, Grand River, St. John, York and Dartmouth, but these by no means exhaust the list. The Grand River may be taken as a sample stream, having a dozen pools within sixteen miles of its mouth. It is not a big river as might be inferred from the name, but it is a fine one, abounding in striking scenery and with crystal waters r ii St. John Harbour, looking towards Partridge Island — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 53 fed by springs which make the stream of almost icy coohiess, even in the hottest days of summer. New Carlisle has much about it that is attractive. The average stranger is delighted to find that English is the language in the business community and that there is a regular arrangement of streets at right angles to the main street. Many of the modern houses, with their surroundings, are very tasteful in appearance, while there is a simple dignity about some of the older dwellings. One is more than ever impressed with an old manor house which appears to be of wood, when he is told that the wood is only a covering, and that not only are the main walls of stone, but even the partitions are constructed in the same substantial old time fashion. Not until one sees Pero^ can he have an adequate conception of the beauty of the scenery of the eastern end of the Gaspe Peninsula, and having once seen it, he realizes the difficulty of doing it even scant justice by an attempt at verbal description. It is one of the places in regard to which language fails to convey to those at a distance a correct idea of what is revealed to the eye. Whatever may be the thoughts of the stranger who lands at Perce before seeing the place, he can have but one feeling when he has seen it in the clear m m yi Band Stand, Public Garden, Halifax, N.S.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. M 55 =ff, li; light of day. The term " clear " is not idly used in this connection. In the wonderful atmosphere of this part of the Gulf, the distinctness with which objects are presented to the view is surprising. In the case of the Perce Rock it is almost startling. Seen from the shore, this singular natural monument stands out against the sea and the sky as sharply defined as if cut by the chisel of some Titanic sculptor. It looms in solemn grandeur as a revelation exceeding all that the fancy had been led to anticipate. The walks and drives in the vicinity of thj-^ place are delightful, the chief of them is that to the mountain, which gives a good idea of the possibilities of this part of the world in respect to scenery. Up, up the hills one travels, until at last " La Table-a-RoUand," the summit of Mont Ste. Anne, is reached, at a height of nearly 1,300 feet above the sea. The most convenient way to get from Perce to Gaspe is by water, but if one is fond of rugged scenery he can have it to his heart's content by taking the highway for a part of the distance, catching the steamer further along the coast. Though much of the journey will be out of sight of the water, the road will be around Mai Bale, as it is called in these days, though Morue Bay is the true title, derived froui the abundance of codfish found there. m ■•:.ianmm j. ' ' ' » in— Ti^i-arp-iWiigrrs i Head of King Street, St. John, N.B.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada 57 Gaspe Basin at morning, at evening, at all times, is a place of wonderful beauty, and dull must be the nature that is not inspired by the charm of the calm waters and the glorious landscape which appeals to one wherever the eye is turned. The stately hills rise in graceful dignity as a setting for this peace- ful haven, and the pure bracing air is a tonic beyond the physician's art. The town bearing the same name as this basin is finely situated on the heights overlooking that water, which is so securely sheltered by the hills that it seems the ideal of a place of shelter, whatever storms may rage. There is good hotel accommodation in the town, and the variety of pleasure excursions by land and water need only be limited by the time and inclination of the visitor. In whatever direction he goes will be found something he will be glad he did not miss. No one who has time can afford to leave Gaspe, which is a place of refuge whither the weary and woi n would flee for refreshment and rest, and where he w^o is troubled by the din and distraction of the busy world may find a haven of perfect peace, without a closer examination of the surroundings than a steamer voyage can give. A ^isit to the Cape and to Ship Head will reveal a magnificent panorama of land and marine scenery. 'I- -11 I- mmmm The "The Bore," (Tidal Wave), Moncton, N.B., height, 5 ft. 4 in.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. BACK TO THE RAIL TRIP. -^fCr. ROM Dalhousie the tourist returns to the main line of the Inter- colonial via Dalhousie Junction, passing ideal spots such as Charlo, Jacquet River, Bathurst and Newcastle. From here on, until MoNCTON is reached, the railway passes through a country so far from the shore that nono of the flourishing settlements are seen. The great spectacle of Moncton is its "bore," a most astonishing eflfect of the Bay of Fundy tides, which come tearing up the Petit- codiac River bed in an impetuous wall of water from, four to eight feet in height ; this is truly worthy of a stop for the express purpose of witnessing, antl adds one more to the already numerous phenomena of the Bay of Fundy. A journey of about three hours is required from Moncton to St. John. The greater portion of the distance is through a well settled country, attractive in appearance. I %^^ .^V$ St. John, N.B., looking towards Carleton— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 61 St. John, the commercial capital of New Brunswick, is one of the principal gp-teways to points on or reached by the Intercolonial Railway for tourist travel from Western Canada and the Atlantic Coast States, being the terminus of the Intercolonial and Canadian Pacific Railways, "All Rail Line " between St. John and Boston, and steamers of the International Steamship Company, and its varied industries are giving it a wealth of importance of which it scarcely dreamed in former years. Fine specimens of architecture are seen in the Inter- colonial Depot, the Custom house, Post office, churches and numerous other buildings, public and private. Electric street cars furnish rapid transit. The wide straight streets cross each other at right angles and the location of the city is admirable in every respect. It is holding its own among the cities of Canada, and its growth is a healthy one. Strangers, of whom increasing numbers visit this city every year, have a choice of several attractive drives. One of these is on the Marsh road, visiting the beautiful rural cemetery on the way. Another and very attractive drive is over the Suspension Bridge. A sail up the St. John River (the Hudson of New Brunswick) to the city of Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, is a trip that tourists should not fail to make. tmmmmmimmmt St. John Station on the Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 63 Before continuing our trip further east over the Intercolonial, we will divert here and cross to Prince Edward Island, "The Garden of the Gulf." Returning to Moncton the Intercolonial Railway carries the traveller nineteen miles eastward to the landing of the Charlottetown Steam Navigation Company at Pointe du Chene, where modern built steamers cross the Straits of Northumberland. We pass on the way the attractive town of Shediac, where bathing can actually be enjoyed in mild waters. From Pointe du Chene to Summerside it is thirty-five miles of delightful sailing, and it is hard to imagine the nearly insuperable barrier that separates these two points in winter. Summerside. As the steamer approaches the island, the first land sighted is the headland of Cape Egmont, in the far north, after which the course leads into Bedeque Bay and the busy ship-building town of Summerside. In this harbour lies the picturesque little island at the mouth of the Dunk River, which has been for several years quite a resort with its hotel and woodsy roads. Prince Edward Island is but three miles wide just here, the Bay of Richmond penetrating to that point on the other side. A little trip by rail to Tignish ■\^ A view in Queen Square Gardens, Charlo' !-etovvii, P.E.I., reached by the Intercolonial Railway of Canada and : Lh connections. 65 ^\i$^^3^' ■ — -ijj" '\^^ * ■J^^^*,' *' ; ^-a^f^;:/' i-^^-.;M M-A'^ will reveal the quaint settlemeiits inland and along-shore of Scotch and Irish origin, and the pastoral beauties so characteristic of the whole island. Charlottetown is the important city of the island, and is attractively and generously laid out. Its Public Squares, full of flowering plants and well arranged walks, are surrounded by substantial, not to say handsome buildings, that might do hon■- Baddeck (Bras d'Or), Cape Breton —Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 77 the earth, you will feel glad to see daylight again. Some one has said that no one can appreciate cold water so well as a man who suffers from the thirst following a debauch ; no one can better realize the beauty of green fields, the blessing of pure air, and the glory of the sunlight than one who has been down among the coal mines. The primitive simplicity which amused Charles Dudley Warner and other humorous writers is still to be found in many districts, but it is no longer a troublesome journey to reach even the mysterious Baddkck from any part of the continent. The Intercolonial system has opened up the land from the Strait of Canseau to the Harbour of Sydney on the eastern shore. For much of the distance it runs along the borders of that wonderfully beautiful inland sea, the Bras d'Or, or of the rivers and bays that are tributary to it. The scenery is never tame, because it is ever varied, and there are places where the speed of the slowest train will seem but too fast to the lover of Nature's beauty. Speaking of the famous Bras d'Or Lakes, Charles Dudley Warner says : "The way was more varied during the next stage ; we passed through some pleasant valleys and picturesque neighbourhoods, and at length winding t t Grand Narrows, Cape Breton — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. n h 79 around the base of a wooded range, and crossing its point, we came upon a sight that took all the sleep out of us. This was the famous Bras d'Or/' " The Bras d'Or is the most beautiful salt water hike I have ever seen, and more beautiful than we liad imagined a body of salt water could be. If the reader will take the map, he will see that two narrow estuaries, the Great and Little Bras d'Or, enter the Island of Cape Breton on the ragged north-east coast, above the town of Sydney, and flow in, at length widening out and occupying the heart of the island. The water seeks out all the low places, and ramifies the interior, running away into lovely bays and lagoons, leaving slender tongues of land and picturesque islands, and bringing into the recesses of tlie land, to the remote country farms and settlements, the flavour of salt, and the fish and moUusks of the briny sea. There is very little tide at any time, so that the shores are clean and sightly, for the most part like those of fresh water lakes, It has all the pleasantness of a fresh water lake with all the advantages of a salt one. In the streams which run into it are the speckled trout, th(; shad and the salmon ; out of its depths are hooked the cod and the mackerel, and in its bays fatten the oyster. This irregular lake is about a hundred miles long, if you measure it skilfully, and in some places ten miles Sydney, Cape Breton, reached by the Intercolonial Railway of Canada. b] W in hu evi dri wh sea ra>i Op a d fup citi( a hi bas( 81 broad ; but so indented is it that I am not sure but one would need, as we were informed, to ride a thousand miles to go round it, following all its incursions into the land. The hills about it are never more than five or six hundred feet high, but they are high enough for reposeful beauty, and ofler everywhere pleasing lines. " What we first saw was an inlet of the Bras d'Or — or called by the driver — ' Hogamah Bay.' At its entrance were the long wooded islands, beyond which we saw the backs of graceful hills, like the capes of some poetic sea-coast. The bay narrowed to a mile in width where we came upon it, and ran -^.everal miles inland to a swamp, round the head of which we must go. Opposite was the village of ' Hogamah.' I had my suspicions from the beginning 4ibout this name, and now asked the driver, who was liberally educated for a driver, how he spelled ' Hogamah ' — Why-ko-ko-magh.'"' ' On this coast, too, is a place made famous ere the English flag waved in Supremacy over Canada. It is Louishgueg, once one of the strongest fortified cities of the world, a city with walls of stone which made a circuit of two and a half miles, were thirty-six feet high, and of the thickness of forty feet at the base. For- twenty-five years the French had laboured upon it, and had Lawlor's Lake, near St. John, N. B.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 83 expended upwards of thirty millions of livres, or nearly six million dollars, in completing its defences. It was called the Dunkirk of America. Garrisoned by the veterans of France, and with powerful batteries commanding every point, it bristled with most potent pride of war. The capture of Louisbourg by the undisciplined New England farmers, commanded by William Pepperell, a merchant ignorant of the art of war, was one of the most extraordinary events in the annals of history. Restored to France by the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, Louisbourg was again the stronghold of France on the Atlantic coast, and French veterans held Cape Breton, the key to the Gulf of Sv. Lawrence. The brief truce was soon broken, and then came the armies of England, and Wolfe sought and won his first laurels in the New World. Louisbourg fell once more and the knell of its glory was rung. The conquest of Canada achieved, the edict went fortii that Louisbourg should be destroyed. The work of demolition was begun. The solid buildings, formed of stone brought from France, were torn to pieces; the walls were pulled down, and the batteries rendered useless for all time. It took two years to complete the destruction, and then the once proud citadel was in shapeless ruins. Years passed by; the stones were carried away bj/ the N. W. Arm, Halifax, N.S.— Intercolonial Railway of Canada. 85 dwellers along the coast ; and the hand of time was left to finish the work of obliteration. Time has been more merciful than man ; it has covered the gloomy ruin with a mantle of green and has healed the gaping wounds which once rendered ghastly the land that nature made so fair. The PiCTOU and Oxford branch of the Intercolonial which extends from: Pictou to Oxford Junction a distance of 69 miles, may be made part of the route to Prince Edward Island or Cape Breton, or it may be utilized on the return journey. The road is tinished with the same careful attention to details as is so noticeable on the main line, and it opens up a very important section of the: country. By it access is had to Pugwash, Wallace, Tatamagouche, River John, and other places which have long had a prosperous existence and a more than local fame. mmmmm King's Square, St. John, N.B. — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. *m! i '^ ,. o ^ri -,-7*' • ^ urn -•:,>''!, 1 ■.^- -V- ■■ . / / •} , ^ ■^^ '^- :^'l^f'.'/^■-'■ ^^S '■> •^ 7r ... ■'''... ^/, '^'-'iv.-V'..' V/'i-^ •■■',.-,'>■ '.*.,■ A". -.-\\\ '''J.' ;r . > ^.. V'^' \ . • • ■ . -I- ■■ ;/■,. I v>" ■-■■ ■■ V ^ S'- V f IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) I t:iy/ii' V 1.0 I.I I 1.25 ■£121 azs :S 1^ 1 2.0 j? V] Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WltSTIR,N.Y. 14SeO (716)t72-4903 i^ f ^1] O^ .-•' * ■ ,» QUEBEC Express Traiiis are Heated by Steam from the Locomotive. Popular B 5'5^te=g?F^' POPULAR ROUTE VOB UNITED STATES SUMMER TRAVEL FAST EXPRESS TRAINS BBTWBBN MONTREAL, QUBHH#-'''^^'^'^'^^ ST. JOHN, . WAT.TPAT AND OAPB BRETON, AKD BfAKIKO OONN£CTIONS rOB FOINTB IM PRINOE EDWARD ISLAND {i^aBi^j NOVA SCOTIA STANDARD BUT AND EQUIPFED ♦.f •^ *. ■I; r :. y y iri-'*** VI^XI liar Roufe^ Through Express Trains lighted by Ektricily. NEW BRUNSWICK 1Q X I jf i ^ -^ MAP OF THE AND rrs CONNECTIONS, NO WATER OOfMlOnOflli NO tranwum. . UMON STATION. ST. ilOHN, NO OTHEB BOUTE AMEBIOA PRK8KNT8 TO FI^ASUBE-BEIIS AND INVALIDS SQMAKT UNRIVALLED ATTBAOTIONS. PUBEAZB* SPUtNDID SEA BATHINa, AND A FEBFECT FMOBAU OF DELISETFDL VIEf i. dK>Bt8MEN wnj. WISH THE BIVBB8, LAKES AND WOODS / AliONO THB INT2B00L0NIAL UNEQUALLED^ "f ■''"'' Weslisghoiisd Autoffiatic Air t 6^ ^ Passenger Trains. CAPE BRETON ^t?;t^p 'i'^t^-r;^!/'^^.; 'm vt Die TaA'-i .^'■"'f mm ■ ,'m "...•-' a •' ,. ■-•■■•ill'' fKOUND TRIP TOURIST TICKETS, SUMMER EXCURSION and SEA BATHING TICKETS, Good for Passage between the 1st of June and 31st of October, are for Sale at all the Principal gii few RAILWAY AND i\r>i STEAMSHIP AGENCIES IN CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES ,:M.. ■.-/■.^^..' .'-^^ih.'.i^A -.ie- .--.^ ;.i,rAw;.: A h Views around Barachois and George's River, Cape Breton — Intercolonial Railway of Canada. *j'^U ■ ■.^3V, "V* 1 •'I ■' .-» V - * '^ • 5 . 1- «