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My Lord, I DEDICATE to your Lordship this Volume of Travels in America, convinced that if it meets with your approbation, it will attain that of every liberal and intelligent mind. I have the honor to be, My Lord, Your Lordship's most faithful, And most obliged Servant, I. FINCH. f'l 'io^n i A D V K R T I S E M E N T. When the MS. of these Tracels was sent to the Printer, it was supposed sulHcient to constitute a volume of the ordinary size ; but being informed that it fell considerably short of what was antici- pated, I resolved to annex the Essay on Boundaries. This having some relation to the boundaries of the United States, and also to those of England, may perhaps be acceptable to the general reader. I. F. London, Avgxist 1st, 1833. A C O NT E N T S. CHAPTER I. PMge Voyage — Deal — Isle of Wight — Storm at Sea — Calm — Phosphorescence of Ocean — Newfound- land — Scene of War — Gulf Stream — American Coast ------ I CHAPTER II. New York — Hotels — Communipaw — Vestiges of Indians — Hudson River — Commerce — Ship Yard — Battery — Bay — City Hall — Govern- ment 12 CHAPTER III. Scientific Institutions — Columbia College — Medical College — Botanic Garden — Atheneeum — His- torical — Literary — and Philosophical Society — Lyceum — Public Museums — Conversaziones — Lunch — Poets — Novelists 23 CHAPTER IV. Churches — Climate — Amusements — Serenades — Sleigh Rides — Theatres — Broadway — Castle- Garden — Flowers — Coaches 31 , i )i ,; X CONTKNTS. ('HAPTER V. Prtje Nassau Island — Brooklyn — Battle ground- In trenchments— Navy Yard — M(ni-ot-\Var — Frog Coucert — Goology — Hoboken — Weehawkeu — Iviugsbridgi^ Marble Quarries — Staton Island - 31 CHAPTER VI. Basaltic Ro( ks — Stoam-boats — Tapi)an Sea — Highlands — West Point — Fort Montgomorj — Kosciusko — Newburgh — - Temple — .luly the Fourth - - - 4;') c;hapter vii. Albany — Fortiiied Mansion — Harbor — Capitol — Institute — De Witt Clinton — Patroon — Elections — La Fayette ------- 53 CHAPTER VIII. Falls of the Mohawk — Helderberg Mountain — Caverns — Dropping Well — Farms — Dutch Hospitality — Schenectady College G3 CHAPTER IX. New York fl'anals — Troy — Mount Olympus — Ida — Watertbrd — Cromwell — Saratoga Monument "8 CHAPTER X. Philadt.'lphia — Penu — Commerce— Tomb ol Wil- son — Swedish Church — Franklin . . . . 71 CHAPTER XI. State House — Couui-il Hall - - ■ 80 (OXTKNTS. XI 7 KM) I OS) Xll roXTEiNTS. CHAPTER XVni. p.ig« Boston-Bridges-Park -Hancock House- Sta M ■i TRAVELS IN AMERICA. ERRATA. Page Km, for M 80 tons,' read, 900 ^o«,,. 174 iro, far'ManitoM,' vc^d, Mamiou. - -4... tor ' L,..s Casas,' read, Las C liKAI. of autliority ; he seemed pleased to exercise some of that power to wliich h(; had formerly been ol)liged to sul ^ On tlic 20th, our ship anchored near Gn send, and the ])erinits or some Custom-house papers not having ar- rived, we remained there during the 21st. I took advantage of the opportunity to view the chalk quarries in the vicinity. They are worked on an extensive scale ; great quantities of the mineral are obtained and burnt into lime. The chalk contains fossil belemni, echini, &c. We anchored at the Downs on the 24th, and, the wind being adverse, remained there several days. On the 25th we landed at Deal, took a walk on the shore, and passed Walmer Castle, which was for many years the residence of Mr. Pitt. From the exterior view, it does not appear to possess many attractions. We walked some distance over an immense depo- sition of flint shingle, which protects the coast of Kent from the attacks of the ocean. On our right, the steep chalk cliffs and letters of flint reminded us of our speedy departure from the shores of England. The sailors at Deal take every advantage of the situation of vessels at the anchorage. On DKAI, n the 97th, the wind increasing, and threatening a storm, the captain display t.'d a signal for the pilot, who had gone on shore in the morning, to return immediately on board. For this service he had to pay five guineas to the boat- men. It was a fine moonlight night. The storm increased in violence ; but, anchored very se- curely by our chain cable, we enjoyed the sight. More than one hundred and fifty sail of vessels were lying in ihe Downs, waiting for a fair wind to waft them down the Channel. During the violence of the storm we could observe the sailors of Deal rowing with the utmost security in the midst of the fleet, and anxiously waiting the moment when any cables should part. They board the disabled ship, and obtain fifty or a hundred pounds for a new anchor. They appeared like harpies watching for their prey. On the 3rd of December the wind became favourable, and the sailing of so many vessels for their destined ports was an object of high gratification. Passing the South Foreland, we had a view of Dover Castle, and wished it farewell ; of the French coast, and the hills in the vicinity of Calais. B 9 ISLE OF WKUIT. The white cliffs of Albion rapidly disap- peared. The superiority of the American ship in sailinj^ was now apparent; the West-India vessels were left behind ; the dull-sailing coast- ers were lost sie^ht of; and only one transport, with No. 2 marked on her sails, could com- pete with the A casta. The contest between them was undecided. We had to receive passengers and provisions at the Isle of Wight ; and the wind changing, and blowing a gale, we were happy to find a safe anchorage near Ryde. 1 immediately landed on the island, and passed a delightful week with my friends. On the 10th of De- cember, the wind changing to the north-east, 1 hastened on board. We left the anchorage, and proceeded to sea through the channel of the Needles. For ten days the wind was fa- favourable, and our vessel sailed gallantly through the waves. The captain was proud of his ship, said no vessel could compete with the Acasta, and, if the breeze continued favour- able, he would land us in New York in sixteen days from our last departure from land. There were eight cabin passengers, including two ladies, and our time was pleasantly spent : »rOKM AT !SKA. i ! ■ we n.ail, luul concerts, and walked on the deck tor exercise. There was much amusement in tracing the gradual developement ot" character ; in a few days we became as well acquainted with each other's temper and disposition as it we had been intimate tor years. In the narrow contincs of a ship, each individual becomes known. On Sundays, prayers and a sermon were read in the cabin, to keep the ordinance of the Sabbath-day. A voyage would be delightful if we could always insure fine weather ! But the scene soon began to change. On the 2()th of De- cember commenced a series of gales, storms, and contrary winds, which disturbed all our arrangements. The dead lights were affixed to the cabin windows, and only the skylight left open. In the first gale, the trunks, not being properly fastened, slid from one side of the cabin to the other; the china and glass suflTered a considerable diminution ; and to- wards the close of the voyage we had scarcely a wine-glass left. The tossing of the vessel required some energy to keep ourselves in our berths ; and the dash of the waves was percep- tible a few inches from our pillows. We took our meals by stratagem, and not even the frame i a STORM AT SEA. on the table could prevent the plates and dishes changing places: happy was the indi- vidual who could procure a cup of tea and a biscuit at breakfast, or a small quantity of pro- vision at dinner! When our vessel shipped a sea, the water forced its way through our only window, and came in torrents into the cabin. Much amusement was created by our attempts to escape the salt water, and he was considered the most accomplished, who could gain his berth the qui'' Vest. For several days the storm-sail was set, and the helm lashed, but we seldom considered ourselves in danger. The ship was in fine order, the captain and sailors experienced, and we trusted in that Providence which overrules the affairs of man- kind. One night, amid the howling of the storm, a cry arose from th<^ deck. Our first impression was, that a seaman was washed overboard ; at that time a sensation of something like danger crossed my mind for a few minutes. We hastened upon deck, and soon ascertained that the ship was taken aback, some spars were broken, and the sails blown into shreds. They ornamented the vessel two days, before the vio. lence of the gale woulu allow of their being replaced. < 1 CALM. The view of the Atlantic in a storm, is one of the most sublime exhibitions of nature ; and although mountain scenery may possess an over- powering grandeur, it is more than equalled by the majestic waves as they move in rapid suc- cession, each appearing more terrible than the preceding. It gives a high idea of the power and mastery of man, that he can build ships to withstand the shocks of the tempestuous ocean, and thus control the wind and the wave. The steerage passengers were nearly twenty in number, and suffered more inconvenience from the length of the voyage ; their stores be- gan to be exhausted. In the first storm, their trunks and furniture were much damaged, many of them were sick, and we could do little to assist them. In the early part of January the weather moderated, but we were still subject to its uncertainty. On the morning of the sixth, there was a perfect calm — the vessel lay mo- tionless on the ocean. We requested the cap- tain to man the boat, that we might pursue the Physalia Megalista, or Portuguese men-of-war, that were sailing around. We were nearly in the latitude of the Azores, and the temperature of the air was delightful. We had a carpet spread on deck ; the ladies honoured our draw- 8 PHOSPHORESCENCE OF OCEAN. ing room with their presence; the flute, flageo- let, and viohn were placed in requisition. In a few hours the scene began to change : a favourable wind arose, and we were glad to leave the deck in possession of the sailors, that they might trim the sails and speed us on our voyage. In one part of our course, a dolphin accom- panied the vessel for some hours, but our attempts to take him were unsuccessful. We also saw r. number of black fish and porpoises. The lunar rainbow was visible on two evenings. On several occasions, we observed the phos- phorescence of the animalculae of the sea. The ocean was illuminated to a great distance, al- though the night was intensely dark ; and as our vessel dashed proudly through the waves, we appeared sailing through a sea of fire. Two hundred miles from land, a bird, the Curvirostra Americana, or Cross Bill, sought refuge on board. He was easily caught, but appeared nearly exhausted by his flight. We paid him every attention, but he only lived a few hours. We were more successful with another bird, which we captured nearer the shore, and brought alive to land. In one part of our voyage, we were driven NEWFOUNDLAND. — SCENE OF WAR, by the tempest near Newfoundland, and saw the fog which continually surrounds that gloomy coast. The banks extend over a space of forty thousand square miles, and are thirty to forty-five fathoms below the surface of the ocean. They are composed of sand and clay, and are the commencement of the Ter- tiary formations of North America, which extend near three thousand miles, and control the political destinies of several nations of that continent. — The Banks of Newfoundland are the scene of perpetual war. The shoals are in- habited by innumerable tribes of muscles and clams, to which it is a favourite residence, as they can easily bury their shells in the soft sand. They have enemies to contend with I The cod fish resort to this coast to prey on them. They keep a constant watch, and swim about a foot above the surface of the sub- marine sands ; when a muscle opens its shell, it is immediately seized and devoured. At other times the fish do not wait : they are pro- vided with a horny protuberance round their mouths ; with these they burrow in the sand, and capture the muscle in its shell. The fish- ermen of various nations, French, English, and Americans, who resort to these banks, take annually from eight to ten millions of fish ; on 10 OULF STREAM. — AMERICAN COAST, opening them they find the remains of twenty or fifty muscles in each — sometimes the muscle- shells are found either whole or partially dis- solved. The first care of the fishermen, after taking their stations, is to ascertain the depth of water : the lines must be regulated so as to lie on the bottom, where the fish are always engaged in this species of submarine war. If we suppose each square mile of these sands to be the residence of five hundred mil- lions of shell-fish, we shall have some idea of the number of animated beings thus supported. In crossing the Gull-stream, we observed the ocean turbid, and carrying along with it large quantities of sea- weed, to which adhered nu- merous small crabs. The sailors on board the Acasta were En- glish, with the exception of two Swedes, who came from the vicinity of Stockholm. They said the wages in American ships were much higher than in their own country, and that after remaining in the merchant service some years, they should return home to enjoy their fortunes. January the 15th, we approached the Ame- rican coast, and began to feel the severity of the season ; we were obliged to have a fire made in the cabin, and clothe as warm as pos- I AMERICAN COAST. II sible. Tlie change from the warm temperature produced by the Gulf-stream, to the cold of the American winter, was extreme. A voyage at sea is so much of life wasted : you cannot take all the books you wish to study, and much time is necessarily lost. On the 16th, we arrived near Sandy Hook, and engaged a pilot ; soon after, the collectors of news for the papers at New York came on board. An altercation took place among them for the papers we had brought. They were extremely anxious to learn the state of affairs in Europe — the price of many articles of pro- duce and merchandise in America is regulated by the European markets. On the 17th, we arrived at the Narrows, and observed strong forts with batteries of can- non, erected to defend the entrance to the harbor. The wind being unfavourable, a steam-boat was employed to tow the Acasta to New York. 1 •» r ( 12 ) CHAPTER Jl. f'^ NKW YOnK. — HOTELS.— COMMUNIPAW. — VESTIGES OF IN- DIANS.— HUDSON RIVER. — COMMERCE. — SHIP YARDS.- BATTERY.— DAY. — CITY HALL. — GOVERNMENT. At a first view, the city appears level with the water; the warehouses near the principal wharfs are only elevated a few feet above high water. There are no docks, as in England, for the accommodation of shipping ; piers have been built at a great expense, projecting to a distance in the river, and there the vessels dis- charge their cargoes. We had taken a custom-house officer on board in the bay ; he made a very cursory examination of our baggage, and we experi- enced no difficulty in obtaining a permit at the Custom-house. I was recommended to a boarding hotel in the Broadway, and went there to secure accom- modations. The arrangements are different, and in some respects superior, to the mode usually adopted in England. Each individual or each family has separate lodging rooms, J HOTELS. — COMMUNIPAW. 13 but tliere are large drawing and dining-rooms, where they meet during the day. The breakfast and dinner tables are covered with a profusion of dishes, containing almost every variety of provision. At dinner, de- canters of brandy were placed on the table, and every one seemed to partake of it, mixed with water. At first this created some surprise, but during five months I remained in the house, I never saw the slightest approach to intemperance. The price in the hotels varies from seven to twelve dollars per week ; this includes every expense. At the City Hotel, families are accommodated with separate dining-rooms and attendants, on paying an extra price. The usual hours are, breakfast at eight o'clock, din- ner at three, tea at seven, supper at nine ; the last is frequently dispensed with. After delivering my letters of introduction, I went to visit the Dutch village of Communi- paw, which has been so well described by Washington Irving, in his invaluable Sketch Book. I was accompanied by a fellow-passen- ger. Our attention was first directed to the steam ferry-boats, by which we crossed the river Hudson to Jersey City on the opposite shore. The boats are inconvenient, on an iin 14 COMMUNIPAW. old-fashioned plan ; but we were informed, and afterwards experienced, that at the other ferry they were more commodious. Pine- wood is used as fuel. The wheels are at the side, and the engine propels the boat at the rate of eight miles per hour. We saw, at a short distance beyond Jersey City, some elevations of ground, covered with oyster-shells, intermixed with bones of deer and other animals, and were informed that in the vicinity of all the bays similar heaps might be noticed. These are vestiges of the Indians ! Thus we have in full view the contrast between civilized and savage life. Here lived the Indian, exposed to the tempest and the storm, sitting on the bare ground, and subsisting on shell-fish. Now, we observe the proud dwell- ings of civilized man, who makes every clime tributary to his comfort and luxury. We crossed a marshy ground, south of the city, came to a small creek, were conveyed across by a fisherman, walked a mile on the shore, and . rived at the far-famed village of Communipaw. Irving's description is cor- rect, but we could not find one of the in- habitants who would speak English, and, after remaining half an hour, we returned to New York. I the ed I the of :or- i li- fter lew < HUDSON lUVKR 15 The first view of the river ITiulson imine- diatel}' impressed on our minds the contrast it afforded to " Father Thames." I should be sorry to say any thing in derogation of that mighty river, whose stream has been a theme of panegyric to Englishmen for so many ages, and whose praises so many poets have sung; yet, with ail those prejudices in its favour, it must be confessed, that the waves of the Hudson are perfectly clear and transparent, the shores are picturesque and afford the noblest scenery, and the commerce on the Hudson may soon rival that of the Thames. The historical recollections connected with both rivers pos- sess the highest interest. From the fields of Runnemede and the plains of Saratoga both nations date the charter of their liberties. New York is the greatest commercial city of the United States. It possesses many advan- tages ; its geographical position, near the centre of the Atlantic States ; its port, open at all seasons of the year ; its situation, at the de- bouchure of the mighty Hudson, which aflfords an easy navigation for sloops for one hundred and sixty miles. The Erie and Champlain canals open a communication with the northern and western States, by which they are supplied k; COMMKRCR, ^ with nicrchandisc, and their surphis produce is exportetl. The East River opens a channel tor intercourse with New England, where exten- sive manufactories are established. From the south it receives the produce of Virginia, the Carolinas, Florida, and Georgia. The esta- blishment of regular packet-ships to England and France brings the earliest intelligence of the markets in those countries. The extensive commerce with almost every port of Europe, Asia, and America. From the continual in- tercourse with Europe and the interior of the United States, the price of stocks at New York has a great influence on the monied transactions of the continent. Ten or twenty thousand strangers are resident in the city during most seasons of the year. The situation of New York is agreeable ; on the east and west bounded by the Hudson and Ejst rivers, and by a magnificent bay on the south. It covers an extent of ground three miles long from north to south, and nearly one mile wide. The city is regularly built. Near the centre is the Broadway, a street nearly three miles long, and eighty feet wide. The other avenues are straight, cross each other at right angles, 1 i CU.MMKRCK. ntre liles lues •les, ami slope from Uroculvvay to the rivers on either side. The side walks are paved with gneiss and mica slate. The houses are built of small red brit ks, neatly painted, a custom derived from the tiirst Dutch inhabitants. In the suburbs there are many houses built of wood ; thrse are occa- sionally burnt or pulled down, to make room for more substantial edifices. Sometimes these wooden houses are moved on rollers to a greater distance from the centre of the city, and it is not unfrequcnt to meet them on their passage. Some houses in New York are built of white marble ; they remind the traveller of the palaces in the commercial cities of Italy. This species of limestone is abundant near the city, and will be generally introduced. A contrast is exhibited in some houses built by the Dutch settlers with bricks brought from Holland, with high, sharp roofs ; they are pre- served on account of their antiquity. The modern houses have green lattices to the win- dows, and the rooms on the first floor commu- nicate by folding doors. The increase of New York has been rapid. c 1 JH tOMMKKCK. It nmtiiiiied in JTHf) .'iV'"*^ ii'lixl'il'i"'-^ IS()(» lHl(> !>'),("><> 182a lOr^MM) 1830 200,000 To obtain some idea of the commerce of New York, a stranger should view the Broad- way, where the stores of the jewellers and mercers are situated. In Wall Street the bankers have their offices — in South Street the wholesale merchants transact their business — in Pearl Street the dry-good merchants have their warehouses — the East River the yards for s!iip-building — the North River, where the steam-boats depart. The port of New York is crowded with vessels of all descriptions ; the sloops which sail on the North River, and those which carry on the coasting trade to the East and South, are very conspicuous. Some have a single mast 110 feet in height, measure 150 tons' burthen, and their main sail displays an immense quantity of canvas. Twelve hundred sloops are emplo}^ed on the Hudson. They are painted with the most brilliant colors, and their white sails, and variegated flags and I SHIPYARDS. I!) Streamers, present a beautiful addition to the scenery of the river. A new mode of transportation has been recently adopted, by the use of steam-boats, which tow one large boat on each side. The tow-boats carry 300 tons each, and make the passag^e to Albany in twenty-two hours, a dis- tance of 150 miles. From the superiority of this mode of conveyance, it will be generally adopted. The ship-yards are in a constant state of activity, and the merchant vessels sail very fast. Ships of war have been built at the pri- vate vards. A builder contracted with the Columbian government to build four frigates, of sixty-four guns each, in eighteen months; in that time they were completed and fully equipped for sea. I was invited to join a party to inspect one of these ships previous to her sailing. The Columbian agent was of the party. We were introduced to the Captain and officers who were to navigate the vessel to Carthagena ; she was supposed to be destined for the expedition against Cuba. On the upper deck were thirty-two pounder carro- nades ; on the lower deck long guns of the same calibre. Every part of the equipment c 2 1 i •j(i BATTKRV. was in tlio highest oiUt: tlie cahin was liiu'tl with rosf-wood and inahoiianv. In the event of a sucklcn war, the merchant sliip-yards could fit out a torniidahle force. There are four manufactories of steam en- gines, vvhicli make annually about thirty en- gines for boats on the Hudson and Mississipi. Some are ordered for South America. A new era seems commencing in this important in- strument of power. The conveyance of merchandise to the difl'e- rent warehouses employs two thousand carts. Their passing and repassing ])roduces a con- tinual noise. In the midst of this busy scene, there is one spot sacred from the intrusion of commerce, the Battery, situated at the south of New York, fronting the Bay. A sea wall has been erected, which has much enlarged its former boundary. It is one-third of a mile long, and two hundred yards wide. It has a broad flagged walk in front, and a row of seats extending the whole length of the promenade. Near the city is a grass-plat intersected with walks ; on the sides are planted the platanus occidentalis or occidental plane. The strong- est impression I received of being in a stranger land, was the sight of the circular balls hang- I HAV.— (■ir\ HAM,. •-M iger mg- iiig ill profusio!) t'rom the hraiiclies, and moving with the slightest breeze. The view from the l)attery is delightful ; — the magnificent Hudson, with the village of Communipavv on the opposite shore — the basaltic hills in New Jersey — Staten Island, ornamented with villas — Governor's Isle, with a circular castle, verdant counterscarp, and frowning batteries — the Bay, reflecting from its surtiice the brilliant rays of the sun — the ships, sailing to distant regions of the world — the heights of Brooklyn, famed in history — the forests which adorn the sandy hills of the island of Nassau. The City Hall is a handsome edifice, of white marble, in the Park, near the centre of the city. The first story is of the Ionic order ; the second, Corinthian ; the entrance by a tlight of marble steps ; in the centre of the building a geometrical staircase. It is sur- mounted by a dome. This hall cost one hun- dred thousand pounds sterling. No expense has been spared to make the accommodations of every kind complete. The furniture of the rooms is handsome and expensive. The Com- mon Council-room is superbly i'urnished. On the walls are pictures of General W ashington, (iovernors Clinton and Jay; and General k 22 GOVERNMENT. Hamilton, a distinguished patriot. The Go- vernor's room, where he holds levees during his residence in the city, contains pictures of Governors Stuyvesant and De Witt Clinton, and some American naval officers. The city is governed by a mayor and twelve aldermen, elected by those citizens who pay taxes and rent tenements of a certain value. I formerly supposed that where all men were free and equal, none would be disposed to obey ; but there is as much order and regula- rity in New York as in any town in England. No ballad-singers arc allowed to perambulate the streets, and there are few assemblages of noisy or riotous persons. The corporation exercise more power in municipal regulations than any similar authority in Great Britain. Philip I 'one, Esq., the present mayor, has made himself extremely popular by his hospi- tality. 1 ( -^'1 ) CHAPTER III. SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. — COLUMHIA COLLBGE. — MEDICAL. COLLEGK. — IIOTANIC GARDEN. — ATHENAIUM. — HISTORICAL, LITERARY, AND PHILOSOI'IIICAL SOCIETY. — LYCEUM OP NATURAL HISTORY. — I'UULIC MUSEUMS. — CONVERSAZIONES. —LUNCH.— POETS. NOVELISTS. MINERA'.OGISTS. The interests of science and literature are attended to in New York. Columbia College, at the upper end ot" Park Place, is at a distance from the noise and bustle of the city. It is a stone building, three stories high, and has twelve apartments on each floor, including a chapel, hall, library, museum, laboratory, and recitation-room. I had the pleasure of an introduction to the Pro- fessor of Chemistry, and that gentleman polite- ly attended me over the college. The library contains a valuable collection of books, and many ancient authors. There are some glass cases, containing a fine collection of minerals. In this room are pictures of the presidents of the college. The chapel is a handsome room, furnished with an elevated platform, where the professors sit durino, the examinations. The i! »>. COLUMBIA COLLEGE. — MEDICAL COLLEGE. chemical lecture-room has attached to it a la- boratory, which contains a good apparatus. I was introduced to the President of the College and several Professors. The Medical College attached to the Uni- versity is in Barclay Street. The establish- ment of similar institutions in various parts of the United States has a very happy effect in diffusing a knowledge of the sciences. The students attend lectures on Botany, Chemistry, Surgery, Medicine, and Anatomy ; and the most inattentive cannot fail to carry with them some fondness for those pursuits. Dispersing over every part of the United States, and filling an important station in society, their example produces a good effect. Dr. Hosack invited me to attend his lectures, and I was pleased with the opportunity. They are delivered ex- tempore, with the aid of extensive notes. Dr. Mitchell, Professor of Botanv and Ma- teria Medica, has published a number of essays on various subjects. Dr. Mac Nevin, Professor of Chemistry, with whom 1 had the pleasure of being ac- quainted, has a very complete chemical appa- ratus, and has republished, with notes, the system of Chemistry by Professor Brande. The Botanic Garden is four miles from the BOTANIC GARDEN. — ATHEX/EUM. 2.'. La- lys he i city, near Bloomingdale. It occupied a space of twenty acres of ground, and was surrounded by a belt of forest trees. The conservatories were one hundred and sixty feet in front. It was founded by Dr. Hosack, and was the first botanic garden expressly devoted to this pur- pose by a private individual in the United States. It was purchased by the State in 1810, for seventy. five thousand dollars; but Flora has deserted the spot, and I only found a fen' plants foreign to the soil, to prove that it had once been her favorite resi'Jance. Her temples were in ruins. This garden was unfortunately named after the destroyer of Athens ; which may account for its speedy destruction. Among the literary stitutions of New York the Athenaeum holds a distin'xuished rank, on account of the influence it possesses in the general diffusion of knowledge. Rooms are opened in Broadway, where newspapers of the United States and of Europe are taken ; also the reviews, journals, and magazines. A stranger has access on being introduced by a friend. During the winter season, lectures on various subjects are delivered by the literary gentlemen of the city. The Historical Society meet at the Institution in the Park, near the City Hall, where a range of buildings has been granted for the use of va- :i 20 HlSTOitlCAl; AND OTHKll S0( IKTIES. ■.1 ;1) f.. rioLis societies. Their library is valuable and extensive. In the council-hall are portraits of Columbus, Americus, Cabot, and Sir Walter Raleigh. The Literary and Philosophical Society meet in an adjoining room. They have pub- lished two volumes of transactions, A chair which belonfjed to Dr. Franklin is the seat of the president. Their hall is ornamented with excellent likenesses of three presiding officers of the society, Governor Clinton, Dr. Hosack, and Dr. Mitchell. There are also full-length busts of the Chevaliers Bayard and Sully. The most active societv in New York for the promotion of science is the Lyceum of Natural History. I became acquainted with several of the members, whom enthusiasm for science has drawn together in pursuit of this object. They have collected fifteen thousand specimens of minerals, which are arranged in a fine hall, "a la Cleaveland." A stranger gains access to it by applying to any member. The society meet every Monday evening, and com- munications are received. Science is rather generally diffused in the United States. One mode by which it is extended is by the establishment of museums in every town which contains more than ten thousand inhabitants. \ PUBLIC MUSEUMS, 27 In New York, the Parthenon, or Gallery of the Fine Arts, is in Broadway, opposite the Park. The Hall is one hundred feet long. Glass cases are placed round the walls, and contain an extensive collection of birds and insects. There are cabinets of shells and minerals, and a gallery of paintings, which contains some good portraits. The Museum at the Institution is well worthy attention. The collection of birds is numerous and well preserved. In the evening, a band of music attends, and all classes fre- quent these museums as a spectacle. Sailors have been known to bring home from the Indian Ocean corals of the most fragile tex- ture, and place them in the museum ; on their return from other voyages, they hasten thither, to see if their shells retain their pearly lustre and original situation in the cabinets. In mv visits to the Park Museum, I was accompanied by an officer attached to the British army in Canada: we were pleased with the arrangements of the curiosities. On as- cending to a higher apartment, we found the room adorned with paintings representing the English frigates captured by the Ame- ricans. Never were ships painted in a more distressetl situation ; the masts shot away ; the I '1 1" I 28 PUBLIC MUSKUMS. — tONVKlUSAZIONKS. colors clown ; officers and men wounded and dead; while the ships of the Americans ap- pared scarcely to have received a single hostile cannon shot. They manage these things dif- ferently in Great Britain ! They represent the French beaten, and England victorious 1 A public subscription-library in Nassau Street contains sixteen thousand volumes. There are many private collections of mine- rals in New York. During one session of the Legislature, three hundred thousand dollars were granted for the endowment of literary institutions. Dr. Hosack invited me to attend the con- versaziones held every Saturday evening at his house during the winter. Here usually as- semble members of various philosophical so- cieties, professors of the colleges, and many literary gentlemen of New York: officers of the army and navy are invited. 1 found these meetings agreeable, as I was introduced, and became acquainted with the gentlemen who frequented them. I saw here General Scott, who distinguished himself on the Canadian frontier. Dr. Hosack has a valuable collec- tion of medals, and a select library, in which are included the scientific periodical journals of Europe. i I il' 1 1-U\CH. — POKTS. NOVKMSTS. '2U A fViond proposed to introtluct mc to a club called "The Lunch." Many literary gentle- men of New York belong to tiiis society, which meet everv Thursday eveniiii'-. Lunch is placed at one side of the room ; but at ten o'clock an excellent supper is served up, and the members, with their appetites sharpened by literary conversation, do justice » , the en- tertainment. This is succeeded by the ta- voinite beverage of Burns and 13yron, moun- tain dew, disguised with various ingredients, and made into excellent punch. At this club, I had the pleasure of meeting two of the poets, and the great novelist of America. Mr. Halleck is the author of " Fanny," which every lover of poetry should read. Mr. Hal- leck has written numerous other effusions, distinguished by their beauty. Mr. Bryant is a favorite poet in America. He has written the Ode to Bozzaris, and many songs, stanzas, and poetical pieces. Mr. B. is the editor of a literary journal of merit. Mr. Cooper was an officer in the American navy during the early period of his life, and this circumstance accounts for his accurate and spirited de- scriptions of naval affairs. Mr. Cooper was founder of the Lunch, and its most constant visitor. ! : !' 30 MINKMALOdlSTS. Having- a letter of introduction to Colonel Gibbs, who resides on the island of Nassau, a few miles from the city, 1 made an excursion there, and passed a delightful day. Col. G. was travelling in France, when his attention was directed to the study of mineralogy. He entered with zeal into this new pursuit, pur- chased two extensive collections, and added other specimens. He acquired the most splen- did cabinet in North America. For several years he allowed it to remain at Newhaven. The number of students there is four hundred, and the sight of these fine specimens and the valuable lectures delivered by Professor Silli- man have diffused a general taste tor the science. Col. Gibbs has a fine scientific library, containing the best authors of England, Germany, and France. We ascended to the roof of the house, and had a fine view of the East River, and the rapids of Hell Gate, where the tide, confined in its passage by rocks, pro- duces an eddy in the stream. The shore on either side is adorned with numerous villas, which belong to the merchants of New York. I was shewn the favorite residence of Wash- ington Irving. There he may have composed his finest descriptive pieces. ( -n ) CHAPTER IV. CHURCHES.—CLIMATH. — AMUSEMENTS. SEUENADES. SLEKJH- IllDES. THEATRES. HROADWAY. — CASTLE-GARDEN. — FLOWERS.— COACHES. New York contains one hundred places of public worship. On Sunday morning is exhibited the gratifying spectacle of various denominations of Christians hastening towards their respective places of worship, and the Broadway is seldom so crowded as on this occasion. The salaries of ministers are larger than those usually given in England, except to the higher dignitaries of the Established Church, and the influence they possess in society is extensive. Societies for the distribution of bibles and tracts, and for the preaching of Christianity to the Heathen nations, are nu- merous. At New York I had the pleasure of being introduced to Dr. Edwin James, the tourist to the Rocky Mountains, whose travels, and the observations of the naturalists by whom he 82 ( I.I.MATK.-AMUSKMKNTS. «: was accompanied, have adilcii mucfi to the knowledge of American geograpliy and natural history, lie was at this tinje in ill-health, arising from nervous indisposition. He de- scribed with enthusiasm his travels in the American desert, which extends twelve hun- dred miles at the toot ot the Rocky JVlountains, one of the loftiest of whose peaks bears his name. lie said they were the happiest mo- ments of his life, when exploring that un- known region, which, had never before been visited by white men. He looked forward with pleasure to the expectation of joining the next expedition. The climate of America is different from that of England. Baron Humboldt has de- scribed it accurately. New York has the summer of Rome, the winter of St. Peters- burgh. The thermometer is sometimes below zero in the winter season. If you walk in the streets in this severe cold, you perceive the in- habitants moving with rapidity. The changes of temperature are sudden ; sometimes the thermometer varies 50^ in a few hours. The mountains to the north are not elevated more than 1500 feet above the level of the ocean, and oppose no barrier to the cold winds. In no city of the same size in Europe is so bKRK.N'ADKS. M.KIOH-KIDKS. M.< ' 50 much money expenckcl for amusements as in New York. In the evonins^, all Americans visit; it seems to he the charter of their country. Assemblies, halls, concerts, and tea parties succeed each other with rapidity, and they combine the amusements of Italy with those of Russia. In the spring and summer evenings, serenades are frequent, sometimes vocal, at others instrumental. The beauty of the American ladies demands that every homage should be paid to their charms. A few days after my arrival, a snow-storm commenced, and continued thirty hours with- out intermission. I awoke by the noise of musical bells in the street, and as early as nine o'clock the Broadway was crowded with sleighs. They are drawn by two or four horses, and each horse has attached to it a number of bells. The rapidity with which they drive, the noise of the bells, and the universal gaiety, which seems created by en- chantment, form a striking spectacle. A scene of animation always takes place on the first appearance of the snow, and I have heard as much anxiety expressed for its appearance as in England is felt for fine weather. The boys take advantage of the season, and have small hand-sleighs : they resort to those streets D 34 THEATRKS. — BHOAIJWAV. i^ which have any declivity, and, lying down on their vehicles, descend with rapidity from the summit. Evil befal any person who happens to cross their path ! He is surely overthrown. Four theatres are open almost every evening. The Castle uarden was a battery, erected to defend the harbor: but being superseded or rendered useless by other fortifications, it has been converted into a place of amusement. Seats are erected on the rampart, the embra- sures serve as windows, and on many occa- sions this garden is occupied as a place for displa}^. The Broadway is the fashionable promenade. Between one and three o'clock, it is frequented by the beauty and fashion of the city. In dress, the ladies unite the French and English modes, which they combine with the most dazzling colors. They wear a profusion of artificial flowers, and thus in the midst of a populoi'S city you may enjoy all the pleasures of the country. I have admired the rose blooming in the severest winter; ihe snow- drop expanding beneath the summer's sun ; and the pink, instead of growing on the walls of a deserted castle, may be seen in a much happier station, entwined amid beautiful au- burn locks. Some ladies, who are favorites FLOWKRS. — COACHES. 3.) of the Muses, I have seen ornamented with the opening buds of the laurel. The dispo- sition of the ladies may be known by the flowers which they wear. — Thus are combined in one city the amusements of Italy, St. Peters- burgh, and Central Europe. New York differs from an European city in the great number of Negroes it contains. They are free, but custom has planted a barrier between them and the whites which they can- not pass. The servants are generally blacks, and they have several churches, where minis- ters of their own color officiate. The hackney-coaches are superior to those of London ; they are kept in good order, and the fare is reasonable. The private coaches are made to open in summer, to admit a free circulation of air. The horses are smaller than those of England. The newspapers do not exhibit so many police reports as those of England, but the editors, in their political disputes, mention each other by name. The chief disadvantage of New York is the want of good water. From the great value of the ground, there are few open squares left to promote a free circulation of air. This defect is, in some measure, remedied by the vicinity D 2 hi I 7 t }■ 36 ATMOSPHKRh; OF NKW YORK. of two rivers and the parallel direction of the streets. By this means the atmosphere of the city is constantly changed. The inhabitants of New York are thinner than those of En- gland, owing to the heat of the climate, and the incessant activity they exert in pursuit of business ^nd pleasure. V—--, ( 37 ) he he its iii- nd of CHAPTER V. NASSAU ISLAND. — BROOKLYN. — BATTLE- GROUND. — IN- TRENCHMENT8. — NAVY YARD. MEN-OP-WAR. — FROG CON- CERT. — GEOLOGY. — riOBOKEN. — WEEHAWKEN. — KINGS- BRIDGE MARBLE QUARRIES. — STATEN ISLAND. On the opposite shore of East River is the town of Brooklyn, which partakes of the general prosperity of New York. New streets are opened, houses and stores built, and great activity displayed. Near the water's edge are immense stores, containing many thousand barrels of tar, resin, and turpentine, which the laws of the state do not allow to be deposited in the city. In Brooklyn may be seen some Dutch houses, fronted with shingles. On heights surrounding the town are some re- mains of fortifications constructed by the American army, during the revolutionary war. A circular earthen fort of that period remains in a commanding position, overlooking the marshy ground in front. On the opposite range of hills the battle took place, in 177^i; and the Americans, being defeated, had to ( 38 IXTRENCHMENTS. — NASSAU ISLAND. € iV S :' retreat to their fortified lines. By the mill, further to the south, is a narrow bridge, where General Sullivan and Lord Stirling were taken prisoners. In the late war, new and extensive intrench- ments were made on the island of Nassau, when an invading army was expected. The enthusiasm of the people was raised . > the highest point. The whole population ot New York, rich and poor, all ranks and professions, without any exception, assisted with spades, wheelbarrows, and other implements. They were formed into compa /es : in one place, the lawyers ; in another, the merchants ; there the different branches of mechanics ; the ladies came in crowds to distribute refreshments; bands of music were playing at intervals, and it presented an animating scene. My informant pointed out the rampart which he assisted ^n raising ; and although he said that he never worked harder in his life, the recollection gave him evident pleasure. Twenty-five thousand militia and regular troops were assembled to defend the city. The increase of the American navy renders future invasion improbable. It is cheaper to build ships of war than to collect one or two hundred thousand militia to pre- serve the coast from attack. I I N'AVV VAHI). -MEN-OF-WAR. -KROO C0NI;P:RT. IV.) 1 was invited by my friend Col. J — to visit tlie Navy Yard. We were received with politeness by the commanding officer, and saw the vessels of war. The Congress made an apj3iopriation to build, in addition to their usual armament, twelve line-ot-battle ships of seventy-four guns each. We saw one of them iiearly ready for sea ; she had ports for one hundred and twenty guns. The ships built under the authority of this act had an equal or superior number of guns. The keel and prin- cipal timbers are of live oak, which is exces- sively hard. The ships are built under cover, in timber houses which cost thirty thousand dollars. They afford room to build two men- of-war. The sides contain numerous windows, so that the interior is perfectly light ; on the top is a reservoir of water to prevent accidents by fire. We visited a sloop, carrying twenty thirty-two pound carronades. From the su- periority of her construction and weight of metal, her commander expressed an opinion that she could easily capture any foreign vessel of the same class. Near the city of New York 1 first heard the noise of the frogs, or what is usually called a frog concert ; they were distant a quarter of a mile, but I hoard their notes very distinctly. 40 OEOLOQY. — HOBOKEX. They have a great variety in their tones. At first the sound appeared harsh and disagree- able ; but, after I had been two years in America, I became pleased with the melody, because it is the harbinger of spring; and when taking walks in the country, it is plea- sant to hear the cry of the frog, as he leaves the shore to jump into the morass. The geology of the country near New York is interesting, because it exhibits a variety of rocks, and many minerals which are rare. Dr. J. J— proposed an excursion to Hoboken, on the opposite shore of New Jersey. It is an eminence, a mile long, and the waves of the Hudson have made an escarpment favorable to the researches of the mineralogist. It is composed of serpentine, traversed in every direction by numerous veins. Some of these contain hydrate of magnesia, composed of 70 magnesia, 30 water. This mineral has also been found in the Hebrides, Scotland, but in no other locality. There is also found here foliated serpentine, or marmilite ; the last name has been proposed by Mr. Nuttall, in a paper which he published on these minerals, in the American Journal of Science. The carbo- nate of magnesia occurs in several forms, pul- verulent, acicular, and compact. One variety M'ERHA\VKK\.— MANHATTAN ISLAND. II of the hydrate of magnesia bears a strong re- semblance to asbestos. Mr. Nuttall has pro- posed to call this mineral nemolite. Chromate of iron occurs abundantly in the serpentine, but it is difficult to obtain perfect crystals. The proprietor, General Stevens, has laid out walks on the summit of the bank. From its vicinity to New York, the beauty of its prospect, and the variety of forest trees and shrubs with which it is adorned, Hoboken is a favorite resort. We extended our tour to Weehawken, and saw the remains of a monument erected to the memory of General Hamilton, who was here killed in a duel. On our return by the shore, we found the tide had risen, and cut off our passage by a projecting rock. We had to re- trace our steps, and climb up a steep ascent. In the evening we found ourselves once more at home. The island of Manhattan, on the southern extremity of which New York is Situated, is composed chiefly of gneiss, containing veins of granite, and covered in many places with di- luvial soil. If the latter had not been deposit- ed, the island would have been uninhabitable, as, wherever the gneiss shews itself on the i \h. ni I hd PM ■If I 43 KINOSBRIDOE. surface, it is barren and desolate, scarcely can a cedar or a sumach find sustenance for its roots in the crevices of the rock. These barren spots, interspersed in the midst of cultivated ground, resemble islands in the midst of the sea. The gneiss is inclined at an angle of near eighty degrees, and the surface is rounded, ap- parently by the passage over it of an immense quantity of diluvial debris. In some places it contains a quantity of garnets. Accompanied by a friend. Dr. T — , I went to visit Kingsbridge, twelve miles from the city. The rocks assume a bolder outline, are elevated near a thousand feet above the Hud- son, and present some fine scenery. They contain extensive beds of marble, which varies in color; the purest varieties have been used in the splendid edifices of New York. The magnesian marble is abundant, of a very large grain ; some of it disintegrates rapidly on ex- posure to the sun and rain. Our carriage- wheels sank several inches deep in the decom- posing magnesian rock. The surface of the marble is much water- worn by diluvian torrents, and where the hill was bare of soil, we could distinguish deep channels, evidently formed by the passage of MARBLE QUARRIES. 43 currents of water. White augite and white hornblende are found in the primitive marble of Kingsbridge, The hills were partially covered with the cactus opuntia, or prickly pear, — thus proving incontestibly that we were on a foreign soil ; in walking, we had to take great care to avoid them. Near the city, many hills have been levelled to give a greater uniformity to the direction of the streets. They have discovered vast masses of rock, some weighing three hundred tons, en- veloped in sand. Granite, gneiss, and sienite, are piled together in these hills, without any nice regard to scientific arrangement. The rocks are similar to those which occur in the mountains of the Highlands, at a distance of sixty miles to the north. They constitute part of that formation which covers one half of the earth's surface. On Nassau Isle, the range of hills through the centre of the island, are composed of sand and gravel, containing a great number of these rolled monuments of the sea. Near Williams- burgh, the stones on the surface are so large and numerous, as greatly to impede cultivation. During the revolution, many British ships of war, and, at a later period, the Jeffersonian ■ ' » I . 44 STATEX ISLANr». flotilla, were stationed in Brooklyn Bay. By the gradual deposition from tii»- river, it has become firm land, and now, w^t a single schooner could float, where formerly the whole American navy lay at anchor. Tn company with several gentlemen from New York, I visited Staten Island. There are some hills, composed of trap rock and serpentine, and several magnesian minerals are found in various parts of the range. The quarantine is established near the shore, where vessels from suspected ports are detained. On an eminence is situated the mansion of the late governor. ^iM' :i i ( '•••' ; CHAPTER VI. BASALTIC ROCKS. — STEAM-BOATS. — TAPPAN SEA. — HIGH- LANDS. — WEST POINT. — FORT MONTOOMEHY. — KOSCIUSKO, — NKWBURGH.— TKMPLK. — JULY THE FOURTH. Departing from New York, in a steam- boat on the Hudson, the attention is first di- rected to the basaltic hills in New Jersey, which attain an elevation of five hundred feet. They abound in mural precipices. A columnar disposition of the rock is sometimes apparent, and the prisms are of gigantic size, generally quadrangular. They repose on new variegated sandstone, which may be seen on the margin of the river. The steam-boats on the Hudson are nume- rous; some are five Hundred tons' burthen, carry a thousand passengers, and are furnished with every comfort and luxury. Bands of music attend, and play on approaching the towns. The largest boats cost one hundred thousand dollars ; one of a moderate size, with i 40 TAPPAN SKA. I her furniture complete, may be purchased for thirty thousand dolhirs. In the American steam-boats, the engine is conspicuous in the centre of the deck ; in the English boats it is concealed below. At pre- sent, in the American steam-boats wood is used as fuel, and the (luantity they are obliged to carry encumbers the deck : Anthracite coal will soon be introduced, with a great saving of expense. Twenty miles above New York we entered Tappan Sea, which is eight miles wide. Fifty miles from New York commence the High- lands, a range of mountains which extend, with little interruption, from Vermont to Caro- lina. In this part of their course they are fourteen hundred feet high. They sometimes rise nearly perpendicular from the bed of the river, and the traveller, surrounded by these lofty rocks, appears to be sailing on a moun- tain lake. The river is very deep between the moun- tains, and is never known to freeze in the severest winter. Gusts of wind frequently arise, and sweep down the declivities ; vessels with sails are obliged to be constantly prepared against accidents. These mountains were the barrier of Ame- \VK8T POINT 47 ricaii freedom. Korts Putnam, Montji^otncry, and Stony Point, were erected to detend the passage of the river, and although they were, on one occasion, captured, they were afterwards made nearly impregnable. I called at West Point, but Professor Tor- rey, with whom I had the pleasure of being acquaijited, was absent. The commandant, Col. Thayer, being informed of my visit, sent the officer of the day to conduct me over the buildings, but as 1 intended to make another call, I contented myself with the view of Fort Putnam. West Poiiit is distinguished as a military school ; the regulations are strict, and the cadets pay great attention to their studies. The position of West Point is singular, on a plain, six acres in extent, entirely surrounded by the mountains and the river : it seems insu- lated from the rest of the world. Count Kosciusko was stationed here during the war of Independence, and a small garden is shewn, which he cultivated, as a relaxation from the toils of war. At Cold Spring, opposite West Point, is an extensive cannon-foundry. The mountains in the vicinity abound with iron ore. At Newburgh, on the banks of the Hudson, I met with a veteran officer who had been Ill ) 'f 4H NKWHL'RGH. adjutant to the American forces in the revo- lution. He served in that division of the army appointed to defend the passes of the Highlands. He offered to guide me to the place of encampment, and we made a small party to view this scene of the olden time. We were accompanied by Raron , the Austrian consul and his lady, several gentlemen on horseback, and the veteran in his carriage. Our cavalcade moved gaily on, until we arrived at the house of Colonel — — , near whose estate the ancient camp was situated. Our attention was chiefly directed to the ruins of a church where the chaplains performed divine service every Sabbath-day. The ranks were much thinned by war, and two brigades at- tended at a time; thus every regiment had an opportunity to fulfd this sacred duty. General Washington, when in camp, attended at ten o'clock in the morning. At present, merely the foundations of the temple remain, three feet high from the ground, by which its di- mensions can be ascertained. It was one hundred feet long and forty feet wide. At one end was a circular projection lor an orchestra, where the bands of the regiments were sta- tioned, and played sacred musi' during the intervals of divine worship. Well might our TKMIM.K. i!) veteran IVieiid exclaini, " In this building I listened to the most deliglitfid music 1 ever heard." And who ruu imagine a more sub- lime spectacle than tiiis temple exhibited, when it contained the heroes oi' America kneel inu before their God, imploring his assistance to nerve their arm in the day ot battle, that they might defend their country from invasion ? This temple is remarkable as being the place where General Washington delivered his ad- dress to the arni^ it the close of the revolution. When the war was finished, and the army was disbanded, the treasury of the United States was destitute of funds. The Newburgh letters had been published, calling on the army not to separate until their demands were paid. To counteract their effect, and that the bravery of the army, which they had displayed in many a well-fought field, might not be sullied by their conduct in peace, General Washington assem- bled the officers in this room. The result of his address is well known. In front of this temple the army was assem- bled for reviews. That rising ground was occupied by the veteran regiments of New Jersey ; here were stationed the battalions of New York ; there encamped the forces of Connecticut and Massachusetts. £ 60 JULY THK FOURTH. This temple has now a different aspect to that which it exhibited when filled with the pomp of war. In summer you may gather the fruit of the wild vine and dewberry within the sacred wall ! The chesnut and cedar, the plantain and yarrow, now contend for posses- sion of this temple of the Revolutiona, > Army! I was at Newburgh on the anniversary of the Declaration of Independence, and was in- vited to join the celebration. In the morning, a procession was formed, consisting of the cler- gymen, militia, and the most respectable in- habitants of the town. We proceeded to the church, where a stage was erected for the orator of the day. A prayer was offered up by the minister, the Declaration of Independence was read, an oration was delivered by , and a short prayer concluded. A band of music was stationed in the church, and played at intervals. The procession was formed again, and proceeded to the town. A dinner at the hotel terminated the rejoicings of the day. July the fourth is the great national festival of the Americans ; it reminds them of the glo- rious achievements of their ancestors. On this day, over the whole continent, the people celebrate the era of their national independ- BKACON HILL. — HYDE PARK. ->J ence. Thousands of cannon are fired from the earliest dawn of the sun until his last rays are visible above the horizon ! Orations are spoken in every city, town, village, and hamlet ! Prayers are offered to Almighty Power, that the freedom of the country may be preserved ! Twelve millions of people rejoice ! From Beacon Hill, opposite Newburgh, is a very extensive view. Seven states may be seen, and the course of the Hudson traced for many miles. At Dr. Allen's, at Hyde Park, 1 passed a few weeks very delightfully. It is five miles from Poughkeepsie, a flourishing town on the shore of the Hudson. On the East side of the river, numerous villas and small towns occur at a distance of every ten miles. Great atten- tion is paid to farming, and numerous flocks of merino sheep are reared. The finest farms of the state are in this part of the country. On both sides of the river Hudson, between the Highlands and the Valley of the Mohawk, there may be traced two elevated plains or ter- races, similar to the parallel roads of Glenroy, described in the Transactions of the Geological Society. The positions where I observed them were, the plain on which the buildings at West Point are erected, Newburgh, Fishkill, E 2 1 '*'* ELEVATED PLAINS. Marlborough, Poughkeepsie, Hyde Park, Hud- son, Greenbush, and Troy. A careful mea- surement of the elevated plateaus of land in those situations would establish their contem- poraneous formation, and common origin, and prove that an inland sea once covered the terri- tory. CHAPTER VII. ALBANY. — FORTIFIED MANSION. — HARBOR.— CAPITOL. — IN- STITUTE. — DE WITT CLINTON. — PATROON. — ELECTIONS.— LA FAYETTE. Albany, the capital of the state, is one hundred and fifty miles i.jm New York. It is advantageously situated for commerce, at the head of sloop navigation, and at the termina- tion of the Erie and Champlain canals. State Street is a fine broad avenue in the centre of the city, with the Capitol, on the brow of the hill, at one extremity. The other is blocked up with houses, or it would aflford a fine view over the river and the surrounding country. Albany exhibits marks of its Dutch founders. Many houses are built of small bricks, with their gable ends to the street. Some have been described in the history of Irving. Van Tromp Street is named after the celebrated Dutch Ad- miral. On the east bank of the river, one mile south of the city, is a mansion, erected forty years since, with loop holes and narrow win- 54 FORTIFIED MANSION. — HARBOK. I J dows, that it might, in case of necessity, be defended against the Indians. The rapid ad- vance of civilization may be noticed by this fact. It shews, at that recent period, it was necessary to guard against their incursions. At that time the sloops were usually a fort- night in sailing to New York, and, to convey the passengers on shore, had a large tree hol- lowed out into a canoe. There are several cascades within a few miles of the city ; to these I was accompanied by my friend Dr. J . The rapids of Norman Kill are worthy a visit. A small river dashes over ledges of rock, and the stream is confined by precipitous banks covered with forest trees. To form a harbor for the immense number of canal boats which arrive at Albany, a pier has been constructed four thousand feet long, and fifty feet wide. It is made of piles driven into the bed of the river, and filled with earth. Warehouses are built on the top of the pier. When the canals are open, this harbor pre- sents a busy scene ; hundreds of boats are collected, bringing the various productions of the West and North ; iron, timber, and marble, from the territory near Lake Champlain ; flour, wheat, maize, flax«seed, gypsum, and the riches of the West. Emigrants come here with their CAPITOL.—INSTITUTK. .');> tamilies to take a passage in boats for the western country. The capitol is advanta- geously situated on the summit of the hill, and is built of red sandstone. It is one hun- dred and fifteen feet long, ninety feet deep, and fifty feet high, with a portico in front. This building contains the halls of legisla- tion. The chamber of representatives is a com- modious room ; each member has an arm-chair and a separate table. Here assemble the re- presentatives of two millions of people of one semi-sovereign State of North America. Every thing relating to the laws and govern- ment, the system of education, and internal affairs, is regulated by the deputies who meet in this hall. Any free man residing in the State who can command the respect and at- tachment of his fellow citizens, is eligible to a seat. When elected, they are truly the ser- vants of the people ; their time is at their disposal, and their votes are narrowly scruti- nized. If the representatives deviate from the will of their constituents in a single instance, they are certriin to be reminded of it at the next election. The members are allowed three dollars per diem, besides travelling expenses. The senate-chamber is handsomely furnished, ij P k tH .'»<) DK U !TT CLIXTOX. 1111(1 is oriiamrntcd with a picture of Dc Witt Clinton. The senators are elected for four years. 1 had much pleasure in becoming acquainted with Dr. Romeyn Beck, author of the work entitled " Medical Jurisprudence." This gen- tleman had an extensive practice, which he relinquished to take the government of the Albany ; ; «'jtute. This building is on an eminence ^joiji ng the Capitol, and in an upper room are the collections of the Lyceum. This society is in a flourishing condition, has a select and valuable cabinet, and displays much activity in its researches. Previous to leaving the shores of England, when 1 thought of my visit to America, 1 was anxious to see and converse with De Witt Clinton, whose fame had travelled across the Atlantic to Europe. A friend at New York, to whom 1 had letters, politely offered to in- troduce me, and I eagerly availed myself of the opportunity. I wished to see the individual to whom America owes more than to any one not engaged in the War of Independence. The canals in every part of the United States owe their successful commencement to his talents and persevering industry. The personal ap- r)K WITT I'MNTOX. .U pearance of Governor Clinton is commanding ; he possesses more dignity than any other in- dividual I ever saw. On my visit to Albany, Mr. Clinton ex- pressed a wish that 1 would call upon him, and 1 hastened to ])ay my respects, for [ con- sidered it a high honor and privilege to be in his society. At this time De Witt Clinton was not in any office. Afterwards, the for- tunes of the time changed, and 1 had the plea- sure to see him Governor of the State, jr- rounded by members of the two houses c. parliament. Governor Clinton is known in FiUrope by his literary productions, and b}'^ the part which he has taken in the New York canals. Since the earliest period of active life, in the midst of numerous avocations, he has favored science and literature by every means in his power. In his native state he has suc- cessively filled the offices of Mayor of the city, Member of the House of Representatives, Senator, vSenator in Congress, Canal Com- missioner, Trustee of the University, and Governor of the State. These successive offices conferred on him by his fellow-country- men shew that his services are highly appre- ciated. Governor Clinton was offered the appointment ot Ambassador to Great Britain, Ml h i ii 1 f' 'li 'i 1 1 i 1 i 1 1 l» PATROON. and it is regretted he did not accept the ap- pointment. England would have rendered homage to his talents. Governor Clinton wished to introduce me to the patroon, the Honorable S. V. Rennselaer, who resides in a fine old mansion, two miles from Albany, and we walked there on a fine autumnal morning. 1 asked what city would benefit most by the canal ; the reply was, " Imagine a country equal to Great Britain and France in extent, exporting all their superfluous produce, and importing merchandise and foreign supplies by one port. That port is New York ! she will be the greatest commercial city of North America." In conversing on the late war with England, Governor Clinton said there was one mode in which militia might oppose regular troops to advantage. If they were led to the charge, their physical force must be superior to that of men who had been a long time cooped up in ships. In returning from our visit we came by the New York canal. The Honorable S. V. Rennselaer owns two hundred square miles of land, besides numerous farms, houses, and forests. This property is 1! KI.KCTIOiNS. 'A) \ let on a quit rent, and the tenant is not dis- turbed in his possession. Mr. V. R. has dis- tinguished himself as a patron of science ; a geological survey has been made at his ex- pense, and cost near €1000 sterling. Item- braces a section of the country near the Eric Canal, and exhibits some useful information. I was at Albany in November, when the elections for Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, and other state-officers commence, and had an opportunity of seeing these popular elections. They take place by ballot, yet they produce as much excitement in the minds of the people as elections in England. The party who were in power had refused the people some right which they wished to exercise, and popular opinion began to vibrate in favor of the return of Mr. Clinton and his friends to power. A committee of delegates from all parts of the state met in convention at Utica, and nomi- nated Mr. Clinton as Governor, and great efforts were made to elect him. Through the state the two parties began to make prepara- tions for the war. Committees of vigilance were appointed ! The liberties of the people were declared to be in danger ! Tyrants had assumed the seat of government, and denied the people their rights ! On the opposite side, 1 I I i . 60 KLECT10N8. arguments equally valid were made use of. The newspapers were busily engaged. In the Capitol, on one side the hall, asses- sors for a district were stationed. They wrote in a book the names of individuals coming to vote, and took the folded piece of paper which they brought, containing the names of candi- dates preferred for different offices. These papers were placed in a small box, which had an opening in the top. The sentiments of every individual seemed to be known, and the ir ijority nearly ascertained. In some in- stances, bets to a large amount were made by the opposing candidates. Placards, liand-bills, and the usual election- eering paraphernalia, were employed, but there was no violence or riot, no open house kept. The voters (nearly all the people have the right) were too numerous. On one occasion, an obnoxious senator went into a committee-room of the opposite party, but he retired almost immediately ; otherwise, 1 heard an opinion expressed that he would have been ill-treated. This was the most violently contested election that had ever taken place in the state. In America, persons who take an interest in politics need never be troubled with the il ' jH LA FAYKTTK. 01 e h i- e d fiend ennui. The occupation it afl'ords to the mind is incessant. At one time victorious, they have to divide the several olHces among their friends. ; if conquered, they submit in silence, and hope to be more successful in tlie next campaign. In all this political contention, which a stranger might suppose likely to terminate in civil war, the interest of the state does not suffer ; because, if the representatives do not obey the will of the people, they are displaced at the next election. The arrival of General La Fayette at Al- bany was distinguished by festivity. In every part of America he had been treated em- phatically as the " Guest of the Nation ;" and his reception here was no less flattering. A committee of arrangements was appointed — the militia and volunteers were under arms — the country people came in crowds to the city — the streets were n«3arly blocked up with cars and carriages — apartments were prepared near the Capitol — cannon were fired — a ball was given in the evening — triumphal arches were erected in the streets and covered with branches of laurel — a live eagle was fastened on the top, and V as to be set free when the hero of France approached. La Fayette arrived late, fatigued ■i III 02 LA FAYRTTE. by the honors conferred on liim at every town which he pasned. On the following morning, I went with Governor Clinton to call on the General at his quarters, and found many others assembled with the same view. There were deputations from several towns, soliciting the honor of a visit, and he answered them with the utmost readiness and facility. At first, I was dis- appointed in the appearance of General La Fayette ; his countenance is not handsome, but it is expressive of good sense. Being introduced, I had the hoiior of rhaking hands with one who has always been the friend of rational liberty, whether we view him as a young and fiery nobleman, or as the philosopher of La Grange — as the head of the victorious le- gions of Paris, or confined as prisoner in the dungeons of Olmutz — subject of the Bourbons, or friend of Washington — his path has been uniform, although public opinion has varied concerning him. After his levee in the morning, I saw the meeting between La Fayette and some revolu- tionary soldiers, on the steps of the Capitol ; tears of joy chased each other down the cheeks of the veterans ; it recalled to their minds the deeds of their youthful days. ( <5'» ) CHAPTER Vlll. FALLS OF THE MOHAWK. — HELDERBERG MOUNTAIN. — CAVERNS. — DROPPING WELL. — FARMS. — DUTCH HOSPI- TALITY. — SCHENECTADY COLLEGE. f Is On a fine morning in autumn I visited the Falls of Cohoos. I embarked in the canal packet-boat, which plies between Albany and Schenectady, and travelled on the canal nearly eight miles. Walking a short distance across the fields, 1 came to the precipitous banks of the Mohawk. I descended to the bed of the river, whose stream was at this time so low, that some rocks below the centre of the falls were accessible. It is to be regretted that the neces3ity of taking die waters of the Mohawk to supply the Erie Canal has much diminished its stream ; and some speculators have proposed to build mills on the bank and make use of the remaining floods. In its present diminish- ed state, it still possesses much attraction. Scarce any object in nature makes such an im- _jS m J < i^ i h i. m FALLS OF THK MOHAWK. — HF.LDKRBKRO. pression on the mind as a cataract; we seem in the immediate presence of the Deity ; for here we view His works unchanged, inimitable by the hand of man. The Cohoes Falls are a quarter of a mile wide, and the precipice is seventy feet high. The face of the rock is in some places much broken, and the river falls in a thousand different channels ; the foam, white as snow, collects together in masses, and sails majestically over the rapids below. The banks of the river are steep, but in some places afford shelter for the " impatiens noli me tangere," or touch-me-not ; the opposite shore is covered with a dense forest of pine, cypress, and oak. The perpetual dashing of the river reminds you of the various epochs to which the stream has be?n witness. At first, it pursued its way to the ocean, without any one to admire its beauty, or the wildness of its scenery—then the deer and the beaver and the elk began to visit its banks — afterwards, the Indian, as he stood in the forest and beheld the river foaming over its rocky barrier, called it the Cohoes, or the Falling River — now, the sight of the wooden bridge at a distance shews that civi- lized man has invaded ti:i< je solitudes, and soon will its greatest charm be destroyed. The mountains of Helderberg, fifteen miles I ''\ CAVERNS. a:* from Albany, have a direction from north to south. They are composed of horizoi''.al strata of hmestoue, containing fossil impressions of madrepora, millepora, triloba, and abound in caverns, fountains, deep chasms, and subter- ranean rivers. Accompanied by , [ paid a visit to a cavern near Bethlehem; and, having procured torches, we descended by a narrow aperture. The first room was nearly imj)assable, on account of large i>locks of lime- stone fallen from the roof. After proceeding- over these with some difficulty, we arrived at a low, narrow passage, where we advanced on our hands and teet some distance. We then entered a large hall, one hundred and fifty feet long, seventy feet wide, and sixty feet high, and there were several deep recesses where the light from our torches did not penetrate. Sta- lactites hung from the ceiling. Descending to a low arch, we passed along an avenue, so regular in its structure that it seem(;d the work of art. A small stream of water ran along the floor until it was lost in a subterranean chasm, and we heard a noise as it fell some distance. At the terujination of the avenue was a foun- tain of clear, pellucid water, covered by an arch of limestone, on which »"<; saw th(> initials of several travellers who .mv. preceded u^« in F I 4: # titi DROPPING WELL. — ORKENBUSH. oiir excursion. A quarter of a mile from the villdg^e, the water from this cavern and otiieis in the vicinity, after passing underground, re- appears on the surface and forms a conside- rable stream. Fifteen miles south, a rivulet is discharged from the side of a reck. Several other streams occasionally disappear, and are again seen at a distance from their original ])lace of exit. Five miles north of tlie cavern, near a road which crosses the mountain, is the Dropping Well of Melderhergh. A mural precipice of one hundred and fifty feet elevation presents a magnificent view ; near the summit a small stream gushes from the mountain-side. By the resistance of the atmosphere it is broken into drops, resembling the finest spray, which are blown in various directions by the wind. The trees growing beneath your feet — tlie rocky summit of the mountain — the beautiful landscape — the perpetual dropping of the water — and the solitar ir .« of the spot — pre- sent a pleasing and impressive spectacle. Opposite to Albany, on the east side of the river, is the village of Greenbush, near which are extensive quarries of adhesive slate, similar tO that found near Paris. On the summit of the hill was the camp of the American forces .' I) >>'l^ \ DUTCH HOSPITALITV. — SCHENKCTADY, 07 irl. he ch Har of les during the late war. The barricades art still standing. All the [arms near Albany have orchards; and the fruit is so plentiful that little care seems taken for its preservation. I have fre- quently seen the ground covered with fruit, which the proprietor would not be at the trouble to collect. The fanners are of Dutch descent, and a»'e extremely hospitable. I was informed that in this part of the country, a traveller had only to present himself at the tarm-houses when the horn sounded for dinner, and he was always invited to partake, and was generally requested to stay a few days. If he could speak Ger- man, it would be diificult for him to escape from their hospitality. Schenectady, fifteen miles from Albany, was formerly a town of much importance. Being a frontier settlement, it was often attacked by the Indians. The houses are built in the Dutch style, but the modern streets contain some neat edifices. Union College is situated on a rising ground, a short distance from the town. The number of students is two hundred. A President and three Professors. h 9 xl^p: t\ li ( (iy ) CriAPTIiRlX. NEW YOnK CANALS. — TROY. — MOUNT OLYMPUS. — IDA. — VIEW. — WATERFOUD. — CROMWELL. — SARATOGA MONU- MENT. :»; TiFE Erie and Chaniplain Canals are four hundred and twenty miles long, and conne(!t tile Hudson river with the northern and west- ern lakes: forty feet wide at top, twenty-eight feet wide at bottom, and four feet deep. Thr locks are ninety feet long and fointeen feet wide. The freight-boats are forty tons' bur- then, drawn by two horses at the rate of fifty miles a day. The packet-boats are seventy feet long, and are fitted out in a very good style, drawn ijy four horses, and travel one hundrei miles in twenty-four hours. The canal was comriioii..ed on July 4th,, 1817, and finished in October, 182^, having been eight years in completing. The expense was ten millions of dollars. The tolls amount to more thaii the interest, and there is every [)rospect of the capital being repaid within ten years. The i \ lANALS 69 State will then derive a revenue of one million and a halt" or two millions of d )Ilars from this magnificent national work. The following is the amount of tolls during the time the canals have heen open : 111 I82n r),On() dollars. 182 1 23,n()0 IS22 n7,U(K> lH-2'.i I()r),(((M» 1S24 ....... ;M(»,0(»0 182') o())»,(»(»0 182(> fstimatt'd 7r)0,(KM) J 832 l,20(),0()(f. The advantages of the canal are not to he estimated merely as far as New York is con- cerned. The states bordering on Lakes Erie and Champlain ; Vermont, Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, and the western part ot Pennsylvania, participate in the benefit. It enables them to transport their commodities to market at a cheap rate. Ohio is constructing a canal three hundred and twenty miles long, at an estimated expense of three and a half millions of dollars, to con- nect the river Ohio with Lake Erie. Produc- tions of that rich and flourishing State will then pass through the New York Canal. In 1825, there were ten thousand arrivals and departures of boats at Albany and Troy ; there i I 7(» TROY.~MOUNT!S OLYMPUS AND IDA. — VIKW. li arrived two hundred and twenty thousand bar- rels of flour, sixteen million feet of planks and boards; twenty-three thousand tons of mer- chandise were sent to the North and West. Governor Clinton favored me with letters to his friends at Troy, and 1 went to visit that cit}'. It is neatly built, and advantageously situated for commerce, on the Hudson. The river is navigable a few miles above, but is im- peded by sanu-bars. A communication with the Erie and Champlain canals gives the inha- bitants the advantage of trade with various towns situated near them. Troy is not a city of ancient date. The ground was owned by a family who, for many years, refused to sell their land. The inhabi- tants have rapidly increased. At Mr. 's, formerly a senator in congress, 1 had the plea- sure of seeing a fine collection of minerals, prranged with much taste. At Troy there is a celebrated school for ladies, to which many respectable families send their daughters to be educated. Troy has a Mount Olympus and a Mount Ida in its vicinity. An elevated plateau on the east is worth visiting by every traveller; — the view is sublime. At a distance of several miles, the waters ot the Mohawk may be seen, TROV 71 as they fall ovef the rock of the Cohoes ; as the rays of the morniiii^ sun shine on the cascade, it seems like molten silver. No other similar view in America. At Troy may be perceived the ditl'erence that is made in any country by the pursuit of com- merce or agriculture, b^ormerly on this spot was a solitary farm-house, which contained ten individuals. They owned a canoe, cut out of a tree, in which they sometimes ventured 'o cross the majruificent iludson. Now you see a thousand houses, coiitaining seven thousand inhabitants, engaged in com- ment,'. The Iludson is covered with sloops displaying their white sails. On the summit of the hill, half concealed by a wood, is the cemetery of the \'anderhuydens, who, for a century, possessed this land. They lived and flourished on their farms, and their tombs num- ber seven or eight. 1 was at l "oy in winter, and the river was coverecJ with ice. Near the shore large masses were broken, and piled on each other by the tide. The ferries were useless, and all who possessed sleighs took advantage of the season to travel on the river. Sometimes on the breaking up ot the ice accidents occur, and the traveller, with his sleigh and horse, suddenly % \l ' m' Hi'u 72 W'ATKHKORl). — CROMWKM.. (lisappairs imdor tlic icv. In winter the stvigc- coaclios arc j)lacc(l on sleiolis, and thus travel with rnucli expedition. VVatertbrd is a pleasant town near the junc- tion ol" the iMohawk and Hudson. On an island are some t'ortifications erected hv the American army under the command ot'Cieiural Schuyler. In the vicinity ol" a town on the Hudson, I conversed with a lineal d<'scendant ot" Oliver Cromwell. The Protector's dauchtcr was married to Fleetwood, secretary to the Com- mon wealtli. On its dissolution, Fleetwood and his family came over to America, and landed on the island of" Nassau. As tlie minds of men are always more or less agitated on jiolitical subjects, they at first lived in retire- ment. Afterwards, they moved up the Hud- son, and S( ttled on a fine tract of land, where 1 saw one of his descendants, surrounded by all the comforts of life. I5ut he did not in- herit the ambition of his ancestor; hishoi.se was built in a valley, and he never went to the polls to vote. He had a farm of five hundred acres, which he cultivated, and talked with much animation about his flocks of merino sheep, and acres of Indian corn. 1 asked him why he did not attempt to beconie governor of SARATOOA. Vi tlic StiiU' ; l)iit he replied, lie was coiitenteil with his lot. At IJallstoii and Saratoga are mineral springs, which have been analysed, and t'onnd to con- tain a large qnantity of muriate of soda. In the sunnner and autnnni, these springs are rcsortefl to as a place of fashionable amuse- ment. At the distance of a few miles is the battle-ground of Saratoga. The veteran troops of England, led on by the gallant Hurgoyne, surrendered to the militia of America, and tlie second act of the revolutionary drama was complete. The people of the State of New York intend to erect, on the plains of Saratoga, a monument, more loftv than any hitherto raised in America, to commemorate the victory of their ancestors. Note. The stoam ferry-boats xised on various parts of the Hvulsou and East rivers are so extremely couveiiieiit, that it i> surprising they liave not been adnpteJ on the; ThaiTK^s at various points east of Loudon Mridge — at Iltjtherliithe, (ireenwieh, Graveseud, &e., where a speedy, safe, and good comniuuieatiou between the opposite shores is of so much consequence. Instead of the att«>mpt(.'d tunnel at Rotherhithe, at an estimated cKptnise of two hundred thousand ixninds, a steam ferry-boat with a capac'jus deck would be pre- ferable. The travelling which it would create, would undoubtedly pa}' a handsome per-centage on the capital employed, and it would be a great public convenience. V <^ /a IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) j.U I" '■■ ii 2.5 1^ ■** 136 i 2.2 I.I ■^1^ 1.25 1.8 U 11.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 o <^ f/u 1^ Ss ( 74 ) ,;i nvi^^i 1 CHAP T E R X. I* ' .\h PHIIADELPHIA. — PENN. — COMMERCE. — TOMB OF WILSON.— SWEDISH CHURCH, — FRANKLIN. Philadelphia is built on a point of land near the junction of the rivers Schuylkill and Delaware. The streets are in right lines, and intersect each other at right angles. Mar- ket Street, a fine broad avenue, extends two miles between the rivers. Squares are left open in various parts, and are planted with trees ; they afford a fine shade and a public walk. By a particular mode of naming the streets, a stranger easily finds his way to any part. The whole space between the rivers has been set out for streets a,jd avenues, but the prin- cipal buildings are near the Delaware: there the ships unload, and it is the chief mart for business. The ground on which the city stands is nearly level, and the regularity with which it is built gives an air of uniformity displeasing to a stranger. PKNN. '45 IS is to William Penn is held in much esteem, and his memory highly revered. His landing on the shores of America is commemorated by an annual dinner, given at the house which he inhabited. The tree, under which he held his treaty with the Indians, was blown down by the wind ; it has been made into various orna- ments, which are in request. It grew at Ken- sington, two miles from the city. Philadelphia, with the adjacent county, con- tains a population of one hundred and seventy- five thousand inhabitants. The society of Friends or Quakers are numerous and respectable. Many persons of French descent, v\ hose ancestors escaped from St. Domingo during the insurrection of the blacks, are settled in Philadelphia. There are a number of Irish ; many of the small stores are occupied by them. Negroes are very numerous. This is the first city of refuge at which they arrive after making their escape from the south. Few among them possess much wealth. The commerce of Philadelphia was formerly extensive, and the merchants had correspon- dents in all quarters of the world. For many years alter the War of Independence it was the greatest con»mercial port in x\merica. It has liV 7(5 COMMERCE. — TOMB OF WILSON. m h ♦ |;|: \-i III ^^'i •1 since declined, owing to the superior local advantages of New York. The Delaware is sometimes closed with ice during the winter nnionths, and the port is one hundred miles from the sea, by an intricate navigation. The trade to the interior is considerable. There are some manufacturing establish- ments in Philadelphia, and several thousand looms are employed. At Kensington and Southwark there arc extensive yards for ship-building. One line of packet-ships sails between this port and Liver- pool. On the Delaware, two miles from the centre of the city, is a navy yard belonging to the United States. A frigate, pierced for sixty-four guns, was on the stocks. Salt was placed in various parts of her timbers to preserve her from the dry rot. A ship of war, to carry one hundred and forty guns, was nearly finished, said to be the largest ship of war in the world. They are built under cover. The navy yard is not extensive, and on the future increase of the American navy it will be necessary to enlarge it. When in England, I resolved, if I visited America, to search out the tomb of Wilson, land the are Inot the Irge TOMB OF WILSON. 77 llic oniitlioloqist, and thus ofTcr my hnmhlc tribute of respect to his memory. A memoir of his life appeared in one of the early num- bers of the Annals of Philosophy. It is the most interesting ever recorded, because it shews the character of a man whose love of science rendered him superior to every ob- stacle ; and whom difficulty and danger ren- dered more persevering and undaunted. He was victorious over all opposition, for he never had any idea of quitting his favorite pursuit. While the birds continue to frequent the woods of America, so long will the lovers of nature admire the Ornithology of Wilson, and every naturalist who goes to the city of peace should pay a visit to his tomb. It is in the burying ground of the Swedish church, and was erected at the expense of some friends to science. It records the date of his birth, emigration, and death, and has the fol- lowing inscription. " Ingeuio stat sine morte decus." He desired to be buried where the birds might sing over him, and his desire has been complied with. In the parsonage-house ad- joining, I had the pleasure of seeing the Rev. Dr. Collin, the venerable minister of the Swedish church, He has been pastor of his I r" / 78 SWEDISH CHURCH. — FRAXKLIX. M ' \\ ' '' Us ' ir congregation more than fifty years. The Swedes were the first nation who settled a colony, and built a fort on the Delaware, and their transactions with the Indians, like those of William Penn, were conducted with some degree of justice and humanity. A few descendants of the original colonists still in- habit Philadelphia, or the vicinity. They assemble once a month to hear a sermon in the Swedish language, at which time also attend any sailors of that nation who are in port. 1 was pleased with some remarks made by Dr. Collin on the subject of natural history ; he said it ought to form part of the education of every clergyman. He thought there would be less dissension among Christians if they studied the works of Almighty Power. The tomb of Franklin is in the Friends' cemetery, at the corner of Fourth and Arch Streets, by the third pannel of the wall. It has inscribed on it, Benjamin Franklin, 1790. It is a plain stone monument, elevated one foot above the ground. Here repose the remains of the philosopher and patriot ; among the eminent men whom FRANK MN 7!) las America lias produced, he stands pre-eminent. Amid the vast discoveries of the human mind, there is none that, for daring suhlimity of thought, equals the discovery of FrtUiklin. He viewed the forked lightning in the sky, and dared to wish it subject to chemical analysis. Earth's confines were too narrow for his mind ; It song^lit the skies, and left the world behind ; The vivid lightning in his grasp he bore, x\nd bade it vex the human race no more. Well did he deserve to have applied to him the motto, «■ Eripuit coelo fiilmen, sceptrumque tyraunis." )ne ler )m ( ^" ) CHAPTER XI. STATE HOUSE. — COUNCIL HALL. The State House is a handsome building; in the centre is a large hall, which leads to Independence Square. On the east side of the hall is the room where the American Congress met during the War of Independ- ence. Here the Delegates of America met in council, and first planned resistance to the invasion of Britain ! Here the resources of the northern, southern, and central States were called into action ! Here the liberties of the continent sprang into existence, for this room beheld the union of nations bordering on the Atlantic wave ! Here Franklin, Adams, Henry, Madison, Jefferson, and Washington, advocated the cause of their country ! Here they perilled their lives and fortunes, and those of their constituents, on the event of a contest with the mighty power of Britain ! i COUNCIL HALL. SI the les, nit n Here they sent arrbassadors to France, Hol- land, and the powers of Europe ! Here Washington was invested with the chief command of the forces of the Republic ! Here was signed the Declaration of Inde- pendence ! Future ages will regard this room with an humble sentiment of veneration. It is to be lamented that the whole interior of the room has been changed. The floor, ceiling, panels, and furniture, have all been removed or des- troyed, and desks placed for some inferior courts of justice. It has been proposed to restore this hall to its original state ; for, if there is one place in America which, more than any other, may be considered a fit residence for the Genius of Liberty — it is this Council Hall! I ii I' jr* % i" ( «2 ) >' CIIAITFJI XII. 1. ) 1 ^ ■1 ■ Ij 4, .1, ,1 n AMEniCAN PHILOSOPIUCAL SOCIETY. — ACADEMY OP SCIBNCES. CHARLES HONAIAUTE. — S> .'. — HARLAN. — ATHENi«UM. — LIBRARY. MUSEL'M. — Ml DICAL COLLEGE. — PROrE.SSOR HARE. — WISTAR PARTIES. — CHESS. In the right wing of the State House are the rooms of the American Philosophical So- ciety. It had its origin with a few individuals who met to converse on subjects of a scientific nature ; its first member was Dr. Frankhn. At the close of the Revolution it became more conspicuous, had a charter granted by the State, and enrolled in its list of members many literary and scientific individuals. Se- veral volumes of transactions have been pub- lished, and, being the first publication of the kind in America, derives some interest from that circumstance. The hall where the society meet is not large, but conveniently furnished, and contains a valuable librar}'^ of scientific books. In this respect it is superior to any other library in the United States. The so- ciety are chiefly indebted for this collection ill ''I in AMKRICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIKTV. 8;^ i to the active exertions of their librarian, John A'^aughan, Esq., who has spared no time or expense in pursuit of this object. The president's chair belonged to Dr. Frank- lin, and was presented to the society by the family. The hall is adorned with a marble bust of Condorcet. An adjoining room contains a large collection of minerals, well arranged, and busts of several presidents of the society. A third room contains a collection of shells, and numerous bones of the Mastodon. These remains have been found abundantly in Ohio, Kentucky, and other States. There is also a skeleton of the Megalonix, described by Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes on Virginia. Teeth of the Mammoth have a place in this collec- tion. In a cabinet, preserved with much care, is an herbarium of the plants of North America, collected by the celebrated botanist Muhlen- berg. The society meet twice a month, communi- cations are read, and referred to conmiittees, and other business is transacted. On the al- ternate Friday evenings strangers are invited to a literary conversazione. I met there Dr. Seybert, author of Statistics of the United G 2 k n f t 84 ACADEMY OF SCIKNCES. II ' ft < States, a most valuable work on the trade and commerce of America. At one of these conversaziones, I met with a gentleman who resided in the western States, and conversing with him on those parts of Ame- rica I had visited, he said, they could not be compared, in point of fertility, with the regions of the Mississipi. " Strength and power reside in the west. Our country can support with rase one hundred millions of people. We receive the literary and scientific publications of Europe twelve days after they appear in Philadelphia." The most active society for the promotion of Natural History is the Academy of Natural Sciences. This institution contains a large hall and two other apartments. In the hall is a valuable collection of scien- tific books, many of which have been presented by Mr. Maclure. The meetings of the society are held every Tuesday evening, lectures are delivered, and papers read on Natural History by the respective authors. These essays are referred to a committee, and, if considered worthy of publication, are sent direct to the printer. The papers already published fill five octavo volumes, illustrated with plates, and have thrown much light on the Botany, Mi- CIIARLKS nONAPATK.— MR. SAV. K) [1- iicralooy, and Conchology of the Unitotl States. The other rooms contain preserved skins of animals and reptiles, and a collection of mi- nerals, fossils, shells, and insects. The meetings of the society arc numerously attended. I had the pleasure of being introduced to Charles Ronaparte, Prince of Musignano, son of Lucien Buonaj)artc. He is distinguished by his zeal as a naturalist, particularly for his attachment to the study of Ornithology, in which he has made great proficiency, and has published a splendid continuation of the work of Wilson. The Prince of Musignano has been at the expense of sending to Florida, to collect spe- cimens of new and curious birds. His col- lection is extensive. I had the pleasure of hearing him read several essays which were afterwards published. I had also the pleasure of conversing with Mr. Say, who has accom- panied several expeditions, sent by the Ame- rican government, to explore the regions of the west. The boundless expanse of country, in- tervening between the Atlantic States and the Pacific Ocean, affords a great field for discovery. The attention of Mr. Say is directed to the study of Entomology and Natural History. 80 HARLAN. — ATHEN^UM. — LIBRARY. — MUSEUM. » f] 11 ' H 1^1 At these meetings Dr. Harlan is a constant attendant ; he has devoted much time to the study of Comparative Anatomy, and has pub- lished a valuable work on the mammiferous animals of the United States. The Athenaeum is in the right wing of the State House, and contains the usual variety of newspapers, foreign literary journals, and a library. Strangers are introduced by a member inscribing their names. At Philadelphia there is a Phrenological Society. 1 was invited to attend by an asso- ciate, a lecture was read, and some speci- mens exhibited. They appear to be very zea- lous, and correspond with similar societies in Europe. Franklin Library is opposite to the Philoso- phical Hall. An account is given of its origin in the life of Franklin. It contains twenty thousand volumes, besides a collection of clas- sical books, presented by Mr. Logan, and thence called the Logarian Library. There is a full length statue of Dr. Franklin in front of the edifice. In the upper room of the State House is the Museum, collected and arranged by Mr. Peale. It contains the usual variety of objects ; the birds are very conspicuous. There is an en- lU,. MKDICAL COLLKGK. S7 tiic skeleton of the mighty Mastodon, the largest land animal of the antediluvian world ; he reii^ned undisputed monareh of the soil. This skeleton was found near the Atlantic, in the State of New York. In Chestnut Street is the Academy of Fine Arts ; it is usually open, with a collection of paintings and statuary. Several public buildings in Philadelphia are distinguished by their beauty, and among them may be noticed the Bank of the United States. It is built of white marble, and nearly resem- bles the Parthenon of Athens. It was some time before I could appreciate the classic mag- nificence of this building. The best time to view it is on a moonlight evening, when the streets are deserted by the inhabitants. It then impresses the mind with all its true sub- limity. The Medical College attached to the Uni- versity is situated in Ninth Street. It con- tains lecture-rooms tor the professors, and a museum of anatomical subjects. This College has a high rank in the United States, on ac- count of being the first established, and the ability of its professors. Four hundred stu- dents attend the winter course of lectures, which continue four months. There are six •I IttI i: h • 88 PROFESSOR HARE. — WISTAR PARTIES. professors, who lecture on different branches of medical science. I had the pleasure of being introduced to Professor Hare, who has distinguished himself as a chemist, by the invention of the hydroxy- gen blowpipe, and by the publication of nu- merous essays on Galvanism, Electricity, and General Chemistry. Professor Hare gave me an invitation to attend his lectures, and I saw many experi- ments well performed. At the close of the lecture, having asked some questions respect- ing one part of his subj 3ct, in which I did not coincide in his opinion, he repeated five ex- periments in the course of as many minutes, to illustrate his views. Dr. Hare informed me that he exhibited the action of the com- pound blowpipe in fusing metals to Dr. Priest- ley, in the year 1801, and published the results. He thought sufficient attention had not been paid to his prior right to the discovery. At the house of Dr. Hare, I attended the Wistar parties. A number of gentlemen have formed a society, who meet once a week at each other's houses. It was founded by Dr. Wistar, Professor in the University. The literary and scientific world attend, and strangers are invited : they meet at eight ::fi .1: 1 ■ y y.. CHESS. W) 1 o*clock, a conversation ensues on literary and political subjects, and the evening concludes with an entertainment. I was introduced at Philadelphia to Mr. Walsh, who, some years since, published an interesting account of his tour in some pro- vinces of France. This gentleman is editor of a newspaper which has an extensive circula- tion, and contains much literary intelligence. I had the honor of an introduction to a lady, a relative of Dr. Franklin, and had the pleasure of playing a game of chess with the same board and men with which he was accustomed to play. His genius seemed still to accompany his fair relative ; as, notwithstanding my ut- most exertions, I was soon defeated. My pawns were captured — my knights broke their lances — my bishops were put in prison, and I could not release them — my castles were taken, and the vizier dethroned — the king made a gallant resistance, and captured several of his opponents, but was finally — checkmated ! ! ( !)(» ) C If APT Eli XIII. \i 1 GENERAti BERNARD. — I'OTANIC GARDEN, UARTRAM. — BIRDS. — DELAWARE. — SCIIUVLKiLL. — GERMAN FARMER. — MI- LITIA. — BRIDGES. — FAIR-MOUNT WATER-WORKS. — SUMMER HEAT. — FIRE-FLIES. — HUMMING-BIRDS. rH' 1 MET in society General Bernard, who was at the head of the corps of Engineers, and oc- cupied in arranging plans for the defence of the American coast. The General spoke in the highest terms of the Emperor Napoleon. I was invited to join a party to visit the Botanic Garden of Mr. Bartram, and was happy to have an opportunity of seeing this botanist of near a century, this traveller to the Floridas, the friend of Wilson, the correspond- ent of Linnaeus. We crossed the Schuylkill by a floating bridge, constructed by the British army during their occupation of the city ; and, after travelling a mile on the turnpike, our carriage entered a side road leading to the gar- dens. They occupy twelve acres of ground, and are delightfully situated on a small emi- IIARTRAM. BOTANIC OARDIO:. — DBLAWARK. J»l li- nence, coinmanding a view ot the meandering river. Mr. Bartram, though nearly ninety years of age, was employed in destroying some weeds which encroached on his garden ; and his venerable grey locks, and the recollection of his life devoted to science, interested us highly in his favor. He was accustomed to go three or four times every day to a spring of clear water, in an adjoining field. I had the plea- sure of going with him on his pilgrimage, and filled his cup with water from the fountain. In the garden is a fine collection of plants, and many forest trees. This was the only botanic garden in America for a long period ; and France, England, Germany, and the other European states were supplied with plants from this spot. Mr. Bartram never allowed the birds to be disturbed, and we saw their nests on many of the branches. The beautiful Fringiila cyanea, the Motacilla sialis, the Loxia cardinalis, and many others, seemed to feel themselves perfectly at home, and were not at all alarmed at our approach. The banks of the Delaware are level. South of the city, a tract of land has been protected from the river, and forms fine mep'^ows. It has a slight resemblance to an English park ; hi «i J) V * d; ft' h< J' •1 i ^i„ 92 DELAWARE. — SCHUYLKILL. — GERMAN FARMER. the herbage i.s luxuriant, and there are some fine clumps of trees. The ditches are covered with the broad leaves of the Nuphar lutea, or yellow water-lily ; and in August the white flowers of the Sagittaria sagittifolia, or arrow- head, are abundant. The banks of the river for several miles are covered with the Eupa- torium. Above the city, the Nelumbium lutea, or sacred bean of Ilindoostan, has pro- bably been brought by some vessel from the East; it grows wild upon the shore. Delaware is a mile wide. It affords a va- riety of fish, and among others, the sturgeon ; in summer they may often be seen leaping out of the water, and the noise of their fall is heard to a great distance. They are some- times caught six feet in length, and are sold at a very low rate by the fishermen. Floating baths are established on the river. There are many pleasant drives on the banks of the Schuylkill. A great quantity of land has been laid out in market gardens, to supply the city with vegetables. These are cultivated by Germans. Entering into conversation with one of them, he said that, when young, he was subject to a German baron, and liable to be sold at his command. Not approving this state of affairs, he worked his passage over to BRIDGES. — FAIR-MOUNT WATER- WORKS. 93 America; he was now his own master, was worth three thousand dollars, and had a vote at elections. During the last war, there were encamped near the Schuylkill twenty thousand militia. They were from the interior of the State, and expert riflemen. One of their com- panions would hold a piece of wood, three inches square, in his hand, and allow them to fire, at the distance of eighty paces. They were certain of their aim. Two forts were erected on the banks of the rivers, and their ramparts are still visible. Two bridges are thrown over the Schuylkill near the city. One of them has three arches ; the central arch is 194- feet span ; the two side arches are 130 feet each ; the whole length of the bridge, including the raised avenues, is 1300 feet. The expense was 235, 000 dollars. At a short distance another bridge of a single arch has been erected ; it is 340 feet span, and is a most beautiful structure. It is 60 feet wide at the abutments, and 35 feet wide in the centre. It was built in the year 1813, at an expense of 150, 000 dollars. In the vicinitiy are Fair-Mount Water- Works, which supply the city of Philadelphia with water. A dam, 1600 feet long, has been I II ' ^. I 94 WATER-M'ORKS. — SUMMER HEAT. made across the Schuylkill. The water power thus created is applied to force water into two reservoirs on the summit of the hill ; from whence, by means of pipes, it is conveyed to every part of the city. The central building of the water-works is 190 feet long, and 25 feet high, and at each end is a pavilion with Doric porticoes. The terrace is 250 feet long, and S6 feet wide. The dam has been raised and an elevated walk made, terminated with seats, and affording a delightful view. The works, when completed, will raise ten million gallons of water in twenty-four hours ; at present, one third of that quantity is raised. The two reservoirs contain seven million gallons. The water is conveyed to different parts of the city by means of iron and wooden pipes which extend thirty-five miles. There are many gentlemen's seats on the borders of the Schuylkill, surrounded by cul- tivated gardens and shrubberies. The river has been improved for navisjation by a series of locks and dams, which are con- structed in various places across the river, and form pools in which the boats can float. The locks are built of stone, and are of good work- manship. The heat in Philadelphia in summer is op- FIRR-FIilES. \)iS m id le pressivc ; tlie thermometer frequently rises to 90°, and sometimes to 95" in the shade. The sun's rays dart through an atmosphere unob- scured by a single cloud. Every one appears overcome by the excessive heat. In the day, the houses are closed, to keep out the sun ; but towards night every door and window is thrown open to obtain fresh air. The houses I come so intensely heated during the day, that they retain it three or four hours after sunset, and at that time the radiation of the heat is very perceptible in the streets. It is some relief towards evening to leave the city, and take a walk in the country. Here a new scene awaits the traveller. On a dark night, he will see the ground illuminated by the fire-fly. These insects emit a dazzling light at intervals; it is so brilliant that you see every object which surrounds them. Some wing their flight in mid-air, and then appear like so many meteors ; others dart near the ground, and you are surprised the dry herbage does not take fire. The traveller recalls to his mind the flashes of light produced by similar insects, which accompanied the army of Cort^ ;. and assisted him to gain a victory. In summer, the humming-birds arc nume- ii ir if • i 90 FIRR-FMRS. rous, and visit the flowers in search of lioncy. Tb«^y fly swiftly with an irregular motion. If Of 't and confined, they speedily kill them- selvt^ by darting against the bars of their cage. I M r I I ill ( i»7 ) CHAPTER XIV. OEOLOGV. GNEISS. — TIILIP-TBEE. LOCUST. GKKMAN TOWN. — CANALS. KALMIA. — The Geology of the country near Philadel- phia does not possess great interest. Tlie primitive rocks appear near the Falls of the Schuylkill, and at the Water-works. At this latter place the rocks consist of gneiss : near the surface it is decomposed; it resembles sand and crumbles into dust. The sand-martins have taken advantage of this circumstance, and build their nests in the decomposed gneiss rock. Near the Falls the gneiss and horn- blende slate alternate with granite. This last rock is of a grey color, and is used for build- ing. Five miles from the city, the granite contains tourmaline. Ten miles north, are extensive beds of marble, which is clouded or dove-colored. The city is built on a plastic clay and sand formation, which reposes on primitive rocks, and is distinguished by the brightness of its colors. Large beryls are found H il * $\ \- 4 ■■ m Tur.ip Tiu-ir- lOfUST KATMIV nt ii (listanro of ten miles. I'liey woro first discovered in j)lout;hing a field, and some are ten inches in diameter. Near Philadelphia, 1 first saw the Lirioden- dron tulipeti'ra, the most sj)lcndi(l tree of the American forest. It "rows a hundred and twenty feet high, and has a smooth bark. In the latter part of May, it is covered with a profusion of flowers resembling tuli|)s, from whence its name is derived. The Locust-tree flowers in May, is covered with blossoms, and has delicate leaves, which move with the slight- est breeze. The wood is used for ship-building and other purposes. The most beautiful shrub in America is the Kalmia latifolia, or laurel ; it grows wild near the Schuylkill, and in die forests of the vicinity. The flowers excel in I)eauty and delicacy of form. I visited Reuben Haines, Esq., at German Town, eight miles from the city. One street, two miles long, was the scene of battle between the English and American forces. The stone house which retarded the attack and occasion- ed the defeat is standing at the east end of the town. The school-house was also a scene of conflict ; it was defended by a party of British soldiers, and the floor is stained with their blood. UKK.MAN TOWN. — CANAI^S. !)!> lan ?ct, jen me lon- Ithe of lisli cir In summer, many families from IMiiladel- pliia resort to (iernian Town, to enjoy the pure air ; it is situated on a rising ground, and is considered a healthy residence. Pennsylvania has an extensive territory, a fertile soil, fine climate, and inexhaustible mi- neral productions ; she only wants a good system of canals or rail-roads, to make her the most prosperous State in America. Large sums have been expended in roads, bridges, and canals : the spirit of improvement is still active, and likely to produce important eftects. In twenty years have been completed three thousand miles of public roads, at an ex- pense of eight millions of dollars ; forty-five bridges, which cost three millions of dollars; two hundred miles of canals or rivers made navigable, at an expense of three and a half millions of dollars. A Board of Commission- ers is appointed on the subject of internal im- provements. It is intended to open a new communication with the western part of the State, and extensive surveys for that purj)ose have been instituted. The great obstacle to be surmounted is the chain of the Alleghany mountains, which attain an elevation of three thousand feet. H 2 ( •"" ) 4 i. 'V ill' * It i\ ■At CHAPTER XV. KASTON. — FERTILE SOIL. — MINERALS. — SANDSTONE ROCKS. — BLUE M01;NTAINS. — UETHLEHEM. — MORAVIANS. — SCHWEINITZ — MUSIC. I WAS invited to spend some time at Easton, in the interior of Pennsylvania, and had thus an opportunity of seeing that part of the coun- try. Easton is about eighty miles from Philadel- phia, at the confluence of the Lehigh and Dela- ware, and is surrounded by hills, from whence a series of beautiful views may be obtained. The hills attain an elevation of a thousand feet. One of them is called Mount Parnassus, and is literally covered with laurel. The others are adorned with a variety of shrubs and trees, among which are the sumach, vine, magnolia, oak, paper birch, tulip-tree, maple, button- wood, and cedar ; there are also a variety of flowers. ^ )CKS. IS. ton, thus 3un- KAST(3i\. KM " Why does the stranger linger with delight, When Easton valley first appears in sight ? Why does the traveller who there has stray'd, Where Nature all her beauty has display'd, Return with joy from ev'ry distant shore, And haste to view her classic scenes once more ? 'Tis, that here peace and joy, contentment, live. And each true pleasure which this world can give ! " 'Tis here Parnassus rears his flow'ry height. And greets a poet in each daring w^ight Who sighs to leave the level plain below, And place a wreath of laurel on his brow. Ambitious, I, to climb the mountain, strove, And wish'd o'er all the dear recess to rove. But vain the task, a lady, fairy elf ! Had gatlier'd all the laurel for herself. del- •ela- !nce jed. bet, and lers ees, )lia, ;on- of " The stream of Lehigh, who can tranquil view ? Each varied station gives a landscape new — Here, 'tis so calm, so placid, and so clear, Not e'en a breath of air approaches near ; — There o'er its rocky bed pursues its way. And dashes onward with resistless sway ; The angry river scorns a bridge of wood. On iron chains you cross the raging flood. " Here Chestnut Hill, which I have often made My walk, and wander'd in the forest glade. Here dwells Lupinus ; gay with thousand dyes Adonis tries the lustre of his eyes ; Galanthus here presents a snow-flow'r white — Alas I it will not bear the dummer bright. Narcissus, with his corol full <.f gold. Regrets that real lo\'e can not be sold. il 102 FERTILE SOIL. M i i \ I. ii ' !i " But if, iu fancy's wild und wayward pow'r. You wiah in solitude to pass an hour, Near Buslikill stream there is a favor'd place, All memory of the past with ease to trace, Where willows o^'erhang the tangled wood. And no rude mirth disturbs the silent mood ; The moonbeams shining on the silver stream, Resemble youthful fancy's flatt'ring dream. " Eastona valleys give the mind delight, Eastona flowers, grateful to the sight. The mountains, hiding in the distant sky, The rivers, pleasant to the poet's eye. Tis here the Delaware so peaceful flows. Unless when lull with winter's melting snows ; Then, rushing onward, the wild torrent pours Its turbid waves o'er all the neighb'ring shores." The dwellings of the farmers are small, but they vie with each other in the size of their barns ; they are built three stories high, and have some resemblance to castles. The Hessians who were taken prisoners in the Revolution, and sent to this vicinity, are said to have writ- ten home to their friends that the country was strongly fortified. The land is fertile, l was much pleased with the neatness of the farms and the luxuriance of the grass. There wanted nothing but green hedges to make it like En- gland. Large quantities of clover are sown ; it grows more than two feet high, and in the season of flowering it reminded me of the lines of Campbell : MINKKALS. — SAXDSTONK KOCK^ ]u:i he " — that l*euus_ylvauiuu homo And fiolda that were a kixury to roam." A variety of mineials are found near Eastoii ; the rocks consist of sienite, serpentine, and limestone. In one place, the roads are repaired with talc, and some stone walls which divide the fields are made of lar 'I I ( IHJ) ) CHAPTER XVI. ANTHRACITE. — LEHIOH MINES. — DEARS. — ARKS. — NAVIGA- TION. — READING. — MUHLENBERG, THE BOTANIST. The coal formations of Pennsylvania are extensive, crossing the State from New York to Maryland. Collieries are established where the transportation is easiest. I went to view the mines on the Lehigh. The approach by the intervening valley presents a beautiful ride. I was accompanied by a friend, and towards evening we arrived at the Lehigh water gap, where the river obtains a passage through the Blue Mountains. The scenery surpasses any I had previously witnessed, and is worthy the attention of the traveller. The mountains attain an elevation of fourteen hundred feet, and ap- pear as if forcibly torn down to the base, to afford a passage to the river. At the foot of the mountain, on the north side, is a space on the bank of the river, sufficient for a narrow road; and in the gorge of the mountain are two inns for the accommodation of travellers. Masses of rock project from the general surface liu I-KIIIOH iVflNFS. — IIKAHS. R-,.i *!' of the mountain, at an elevation of several hun- dred feet, on the south side of the river, and rise nearly perpendicular. They present a fine appearance, not being covered with trees or shrubs. The mountains are usually covered with wood ; the distance from market and difficulty of approach prevent its being cut down. — Through the gap there is always a cool breeze, even in the hottest summer. The mountains belong to the old red sand- stone, and are composed of quartz pebbles, united by a silicious base. According to the sense in which Baron Humboldt applies the term grauwacke, these rocks might be consi- dered as belonging to that formation ; but I prefer the former name. This rock forms the basis of all the coal formations in the eastern part of Pennsylvania, and alternates with some of the lower strata. It forms basins, in which the coal is deposited, and although in many instances only one side of the basin has been discovered, yet from the regular dip and gene- ral appearance of the country, there can be no doubt of the fact. These mountains afford a fine place of refuge for bears, panthers, and wolves. The innkeeper informed us he had seen a large bear on the I Riimir MiNRs. Mi 1 proreding afternoon, nnd that he had t ikcn up his abode in a cave on the mountain, lie offered to go vitli ns to the place. We ascend- ed the rocky side or the moimtain, and threw some large stones iito liis den ; l)ut he was probably absent on a foraging excursion. It' we coidd have seen him, we should liave pro- cured fire-arms and dogs, and have had a regu- lar siege. We set out early on the following morning, and arrived to breakfast at Lehighton, a small village, containing a few stores and a tavern. At the distance of a mile is an ancient settle- ment of Moravians, who were massacred by the Indians in the year 1780. A monument is erected to the memory of those unfortunate men. We saw an old-fashioned church and school-house which they had built. From Le- highton to the mines is seven miles. The road winds near the bed of the river, almost enclosed between ranges of mountains ; and as they take a semicircular direction, the traveller is at a loss where to find a passage. The scenery is delightful, continues four miles, and presents new beauties at every step. Mountains rise at an angle of 60 degrees, yet their sides are clothed with wood ; the Lehigh flows at their feet, and is here a rapid stream : '' -*' ML' I.KHIOH M1NR». sometimes its course is impeded by rocks; in other places it occupies ii wide channel, inter- spersed witli small islands. Great labor must have been retiuired to make a road through this desolate wilderness, where nothing but rocks, the forest, and the river, meet the eye, and there does not appear to be one spot of cultivated ground. On arriving at the Lehigh mines, we were agreeably surprised to find a flourishing settle- ment, although there appeared scarcely room for a single house. By excavating the sides of the hill, and occupying a level space by the river, they have obtained ground for the requi- site buildings. These coal mine» were discovered in the year 1810, by a hunter, who saw a pine tree blown down by the wind, and pieces of coal adhered to the roots. His curiosity led him to examine it ; he found the tree had grown upon a solid mass of coal, which he traced to a distance on the mountain. The land, being covered with a thick forest and far removed from any settlement, had remained in posses- sion of the State, and he purchased a large tract of land at the usual price, two dollars per acre. He made known his discovery, and sold the mine for ten thousand dollars. A company il '.I LKHIOH MINKS. Il.'i was formed, wlio experienced great diiticulty in scndin<; the eoal to market. The boats, loaded with coal, were lloated down the Le- high, at that time full of rocks and rapids. Many of the boats were dashed to pieces, and the men who attempted to guide them perished. There was great difficulty in selling the small (juantity of coal that escaped tiie dangers of the route. The coal is anthracite, containing 90' carbon, 2 silex, I iron, 1 water. It is difficult to ignite. There was a prejudice against its use; and these dilficulties induced tiie first company to abantlon the works. Lately, the mines have been again opened under better auspices. Stoves have been constructed, and the use of coal has become general. The navi- gation of the Lehigh and Delaware has been improved at great expense. A road has been constructed on the M'Adam plan to the prin- cipal mine, at a distance of nine miles from the river, at an elevation of nine hundred feet. A number of stores, dwelling-houses, and mills, have been built, a foundry erected, and wharfs for shipping the coal. The capital laid out by the company exceeds four millions of dollars. We went to view the mine, and rode up the side of the mountain. The coal was on the summit, covered bv a few leet of earth, which 1 m 'I tm . > IM I-KHIGH MINES. ARKS. f ha(^ been easily rcMnoved. Tlio extreme ecls^e of the basin was now presented to view, work- ed as an open quarry ; and a space had been made, 300 feet long, 250 feet wide, and 50 feet deep. This was not all good coal; it was in- termixed with bituminous shale and slate clay, similar to those of Europe. Three roads led into the mine, by which the waggons were drawn in, and, when loaded, conveyed the coal to the landing on the river. In 1824, arks were employed to convey the coal down the river. They were made of rough planks, twelve feet square, and two feet deep. Six of these arks were fastened together, and two men were stationed at each end, with a rude species of rudder to guide them. As they floated down the river, which was in some places rapid, it required great skill and strength to keep the proper channel and prevent the arks from driving on the rocks. We saw the first experiment made with seven of these fastened together ; after proceeding safe two miles, they struck on a bank, and some were lost. The Company have commenced a very arduous task, to make a tunnel through the mountain. This is the first work of the kind in the United States, and from the excessive hardness of the rock, the progress is necessa- \ a- \ \ ' I m 120 SABBATARIANS. — PROVJDENCK. Azalea periclymenoides. A great enjoyment in travelling is to notice the variety of flowers ; at the most distant period they continue to make the same impression on the mind. Pursuing my journey, 1 came in sight of a church ; it was Saturday, yet I perceived from the sound of sacred music and the number of carriages by which it was surrounded, that the congregation were assembled. On inquiry, I found the sect of Sabbatarians were numerous in this part of the country, and that it was one of their congregations. Before I arrived at Providence, I passed over primitive and transition rocks, and arrived at a coal formation, which extends to some distance, but has not been explored in this part of its course. Providence is one capital of the State of Rhode Island ; the sessions of the Legislature are held alternately here and at Newport. It is a flourishing city, at the head of a navigable river or arm of the sea. There are several manufactories in Providence and the neigh- boring towns, where cotton goods are made in large quantities. In America, as in England wherever manufactures are established, a new impulse seems to be given to human industry ; houses are built and a spirit of improvement I HROWN UXIVERSITV. — (U)VERNOH. 121 is exhibited. Cotton goods are shipped tVoin Providence to all parts of the United States. Brown University is on a hill, overlooking the city ; it has three professors and sixty students ; but having no legislative patronage and being near the college at Harvard, more amply endowed, it has not increased so rapidly as was expected. On my return from Boston, I again stopped at Providence during the sessions of the Le- gislature. The members were farmers, mecha- nics or tradesmen, and few lawyers ; they are paid six shillings sterling per diem. The Governor of the State has a salary of £l50 sterling ; an effort was made in the Legis- lature to reduce the amount ; it was considered too laroj^e. The Governor was at the hotel where I remained ; I sat by him at table, and, after some conversation, found I was conversing with the chief magistrate of eighty thousand people ; thus having a higher rank than can be claimed by some princes on the continent of Europe. The form of government of nearly all the North American republics is similar. Deputies chosen annually form the House of Representatives; Deputies chosen for two or four years — Senate; a Chief elected for two or three OOVKHNOR. — MOUNT llOl'K. U ri,-M 111 '■: 1^ i; ■■ r r 1 r years — Governor. Tlie title of the ehief ma- gistrate is the same as before the lle'olutioi), although it has not a very republican sound. The governors of the States possess great power — it is the most honorable office in the United States, next to the President. They confer many offices, have the power of par- doning offences, call together the Houses of Assembly, and command the State militia in war. [t is a great honor to be elected chief of one or two millions of people ; and although the title is not hereditary, the honor descends to their latest posterity, and is an incentive to good actions. The river at Providence is crowded with sloops, and a sail to Newport is delightful ; the distance thirty miles. The bay expands to a width of seven miles, and presents a variety of beautiful scenery. Towards the east, on a small rocky eminence, is Mount Hope, the residence of King Philip. " With a scanty band of followers who still remained true to his desperate fortunes, King Philip wandered back to the vicinity of Mount Hope, the ancient dwelling of his fathers." Here he was betrayed into the power of his enemies, and thesovereignty of an ancient Indian nation was extinguished. NKWPORT HAKHOR. — RKDOlJins. I2:{ \ Newport was distinguished in the unnals of the old French wars, from its being the general rendezvous of th'^ fleets. The harbor is equal or superior to any other in America. The town has declined from its ancient prosperity ; many houses are untenanted and seem falling to ruins, and there is apparently little business transacted, i trade formerly carried on at Newport, has been removed to Providence, which is more centrallv situated. The town is surrounded by a chfiin of redoubts and forts, erected by the British army in the War of Independence. Some of the fortifications still remain. Fort Tammony stands on an eminence, two miles north-west of the town. It occupies a strong position and commands an extensive view. The en- campment of the American army on the op- posite heights, and the position of the French fleet under Count D'Estaing, were pointed out to me by a resident. But the fields are no longer occupied by contending armies— the husbandman now follows his occupation in peace. The bay is not in possession of hostile fleets — the sailor pursues without danger his path upon tlie wave. To the east of Newport is an ancient redoubt, with four embrasures for cannon, protected by a deep fosse. 121 rOAl, .MINKS. Rhode Ishmcl contains tinnis uiidrr hetltr cultivation than many otlitT States. Tlic fences arc huilt of stone ; the land near Newport is divided into small allotments, but on the north part of the island the farms are large, containing four hundred or five hundred acres. The wood has been cut off'. On the east side of the island, two miles from Newport, the rocks con- sist of transition mica slate ; large masses of (luartz arc scattered in everv direction on the shore. A coal formation in the south part of Rhode Island is supposed to extend to Worcester, in Massachusetts, a distance of seventy miles. It is in the shape of a basin, three to five miles wide. A company, formed at New York, have commenced working a mine on the island, with little prospect of success. The coal is anthracite, valuable for many purposes where a durable heat is required. The strata vary from four to eight feet in thickness. But they are excessively hard, and inclined at so steep an angle as to render the working of the mines expensive. ( 1-25 ) CHAPTER XVni. BOSTON. — BRIDGES. — PARK. — HANCOCK HOUSE. HOUSE. — breed's hill. — BUNKER HILL. STATE », Boston is situated on a promontory, joined to the main-land by a narrow peninsula, and by several bridges. It resembles Mexico in its position. Within the last sixty years there was a gate and wall across the peninsula, to keep out the Indians. When the Revolution commenced, Governor Gage gave orders for the construc- tion of a fortified line near the same place, and the remains are still to be seen, unless lately obliterated. The ditch was wide and deep, and extended from the bay to the interior har- bor, and, at high water, converted Boston into an island. Boston contains sixty thousand inhabitants, and carries on an extensive commerce with varic js parts of the world. The harbor is commodious, and affords anchorage for five hundred ships of war. It is detended by Port L' 1 I2(i BOSTON. PARK. ■; I >,' ( 1 1 \! hi;' ii" ■ r ! f: nv 4 'r I ndopciKloncc, situated on an island, provided with ^200 pieces of cannon. The streets of Boston arc crooked ; it is said there is not one strait avenue in the whole city. The ground on which it is built is un- dulatin<:^, and it resembles an English town. The streets are kept much cleaner than in any other city in America. A very singular cart or truck is used for the conveyance of goods. They are made of two pieces of timber, about twenty five feet long, placed two feet and a half apart, and resting in the centre on an axle with two wheels. The} are drawn by two or three horses, and form a serious impediment to passing the streets, besides being very danger- ous. Many houses towards the exterior of the citv are built of wood, those in the central streets are of brick ; all are painted, and fur- nished with green blinds. It is the fashion in Boston for rich indivi- duals to build very large houses. Some of these are built of marble ; others of white granite brought from Chelmsford. Some are con- structed of a dark-colored sienite, which has a very sombre appearance, and from the density of the material, these houses must be damp in winter. The pride of Boston is the Park. It occupies thirty acres of ground, the surface I MRinOF.S. 127 nite :on- las sity in It ■ace \ I gontly iinrlulating, and siirroisiult'cl hy a wido mall, l)Oun(U'd hy a doubKi row ot" the Uhmis pcndula, or American elm. Flero the reviews take |)lace, and on jiuhlic occasi^ - .hich are nnmerous in America, it forms j field tor display. The bridges which connect Boston with the main-land are fonr in number. They are con- structed on piles driven into the bottom of the harbor, which varies from five to twenty feet in depth. They are open and exposed to the weather, and, in consequence, the planks are obliged to bt; renewed every five years. In Pennsylvania, where the bridges are protected by a roof, they last thirty years without repair, and preserve the traveller from the inclemency of the sky. One bridge is twelve hundred yards long, the others are of scarcely inferior dimensions. Within a short distance of Bos- ton, the bridges thrown over the various creeks and bays are supposed to be ten miles in ex- tent, if united in one line. A mound of stone, filled with earth, has been erected across the higher part of the har- bor, at an expense of five hundred thousand dollars. Two large reservoirs are formed ; one is kept full of water, and the other empty, by gates which allow the efflux and reflux of the 12s HANCOCK HOUSK. — STATK HOUSK. t I ' tide. An immense water-power is thus crea- ted, and mills arc erected on the dam which separate the two reservoirs. On arriving at Boston, I was recommended by my friends to board at Hancock House. It was formerly the residence of Governor Han- cock, who possessed a large fortune, was dis- tinguished by his attachment to freedom, and was President of Congress in the most perilous times of the revolution. The mansion is built of sienite, and resembles an English dwelling of the sixteenth century ; the ascent is by several steps and terraces. It is on a rising ground, adjoining the Capitol, and commands an extensive and delightful view. The asso- ciations connected with the house are agree- able ; General Washington often visited h.:re, and, in the distant view, may be seen the circu- lar hills of Dorchester, where liberty gained such an important triumph. Should the house be still standing, and the same lady preside over its destiny, the traveller could not find a more agreeable residence. The State House contains the halls of Legis- lature, and various offices connected with the commonwealth. From the turret on the sum- mit, there is a fine view over the surrounding country. At the time of high tide the ocean BUNKRR HILL. BREEDS HILL. 12J> the fum- ling :ean fills all the harbors, bays, and inlets, and adds much to the interest of the scene. In one di- rection you view the harbor, studded with islands, and crowded with ships, the peninsula, Dorchester, and Roxbury ; on the opposite side, the battle-ground of Charlestown, Lech- mere Point, Bunker, Winter, and Prospect Hills. The vicinity of Boston is adorned with many beautiful villages. Dorchester, Brighton, Cambridge, Medford, Brooklyn, are within the limits of a morning's ride. Many gentlemen of fortune have country seats, which are paint- ed white with green lattices, and the grounds and shrubberies are laid out in the English style, but not on so extensive a scale. Boston has been called the cradle of Ame- rican liberty. In future ages many will visit this city, to view the first battle-ground of the armies of England and the United Colonies. My first visit was to Breed's Hill, where the battle was fought which had such an important influence on the future events of the war. After passing over a wooden bridge, and tra- versing some streets in Charlestown, I ascend- ed the hill, and observed on the summit the mound of a redoubt. I supposed that it was erected by the Americans, but was informed by K v.- i I- ' 1 w 1^1 si. 1 1 m 'V: 130 breed's hill. Col. S , it was constructed by the British after the sanguinary conflict, and a guard sta- tioned there, to prevent the Americans regain- ing possession of the ground. The position of the ancient redoubt is very indistinctly marked. The intrenchment which extended to the marsh, and was defended by the Americans, can still be traced. To acquire an accurate idea of the movements of the troops on that eventful day, I afterwards went down to the wharf where the British troops embarked at Boston, hired a boat, and rowed to More- ton's Point. Climbing over one or two fences, I ascended Breed's Hill by the route pursued by the British army. I thought the grass looked darker on the spot where so many brave men had fallen. Although we lament their fate, it was an important day for America, and for the liberties of the world. The founda- tion of a column has been laid by General La Fayette, to mark to future times the spot where the battle took place. 1 V— -.^ ( 131 ) CHAPTER XIX. HARVARD COLLEGE. — COMMENCEMENT. — BOTANIC GARDEN. ida- La }pot Harvard College at Cambridge, near Boston, is the oldest and best endowed college in the United States. It has a president and fourteen professors, who deli\or lectures on Mathematics, Natural Philosophy, Chemistry, Oriental Languages, Greek, Logic, and Meta- physics, Sacred Literature and Biblical Criti- cism, Law, Commercial Law, Moral Philo- sophy, Rhetoric and Oratory, Spanish, Italian and French ; five tutors and a librarian. The library attached to the College contains thirty-five thousand volumes. There are ex- tensive laboratories, a museum, and a collec- tion of minerals. The Medical College, attached to Harvard, is situated at Boston, and has six professors, who lecture on the various departments of medical science. From the President of Harvard College, the Rev. Dr. Kirkland, I received every mark of polite attention, K 2 132 COMMRNCRMENT. — BOTANIC GARDEN. 'f. ■■Wi'i I recei 2d an invitation from the trustees to attend the celebration of Commencement, when degrees are conferred. On the morning ap- pointed I went with a party from Boston. The invited guests and alumni of the college, the trustees and professors, met in the library. The Governor of the State came, escorted by a troop of cavalry A procession was formed, and we walked to the chapel of the village, which was crowded in every part. Seats were reserved on a platform, near the pulpit, where the President took his seat. Orations were dc.i'^ered and degrees conferred. The cere- mony began and concluded with a prayer. We then proceeded to the College Hall, where a handsome dinner was prepared, and the evening concluded with a party at the President's house. The Botanic garden belonging to Harvard College, is on a gently rising eminence, half a mile from Cambridge, and occupies twelve acres of ground. It has conservatories for the preservation of plants from warm climates, and small ponds for the water plants. I had the pleasure of being acquainted with Professor Nuttall, the curator of the garden, and lecturer on Botany to the College. He is well known in the scientific world by his travels in the Arkansas Territory, and by various botanical BOTANIC OARJ)K\. ];33 a j)ul)licatioiis, among which his Gciicrii of North American plants has, I believe, the first j)lace. By his assiduous attention, the bo- tanic garden has received valuable additions to the number of its plants, and the admirer of Flora is there surrounded by all her favorite flowers. After gratifying my curiosity by viewing the most rare plants, I proposed a walk in the neighboring fields, and we made a tour of a mile to a pond in the vicinity. In our walk we observed several species of Aster, of which nearly seventy varieties are found in the New England States. The sagit- taria, the berberis, and the vaccinium, reminded us of the gay fields of England, but the brilliant flowers of the spiraea cocci nea recalled the idea that we were in a far distant land, On the borders of the pond we found the scented flowers of the nymphaea odorata, or odorous lily, and returned to Cambridge much pleased with our excursion. ( i;m ) CHAPTER XX. ANCIENT FORTS, — COPS HILL. — GENERAL BURGOYNE. — PROS- PECT HILL. — STANDARD. — DORCHESTER HEIGHTS. r' i '• ■ ( It has been asserted that America is destitute of antiquities, which throw a charm over the soil where they occur, and recall so forcibly to our minds the heroes of other times. The earthern ramparts, constructed by the armies of America in their struggles for free- dom, have made on my mind the same impres- sion as a visit to the Roman, Saxon, and Danish camps of England. Witnesses of events recorded in history, they are durable records of the annals of the two countries. The hills in the vicinity of Boston are co- vered with these ramparts, or by their ruins ; they have in many instances been thrown down. The siege of Boston, in the commence- ment of the War of Independence, has been justly ranked among the most important events in that period of history. It was the first act in the drama, which terminated in the emanci- pation of America from European dominion. COl'iS llirj-.-- (5E\KRAL BURGOYNE. 13') 11. The gallant armies of England, headed by the intrepid Howe, the accomplished Burgoyne? the gallant Clinton, were foiled by the yeo- manry of America, led on by a Washington, Greene, and Putnam. After a blockade of eleven months, the British army was compelled to leave the capital of the eastern States. In 1824, the outline of a strong tort was visible on Bunker Hill. At Cops Hill, in Boston, I saw the parapet of a battery which was a great annoyance to the Americans on the morning of battle. It was in front of a churchyard, whose low boun- dary wall could scarce have left room for firing the guns. From this hill Generals Burgoyne and Clinton beheld the action. An eminence to the west of the elm-tree in the park is sur- rounded by an intrenchment ; a force was sta- tioned there to prevent the Americans passing the harbor. Winter Hill is covered with the ramparts which protected the left wing of the American army. At Cambridge, the antiquary can distin- guish upon the college-green a faint outline of the second line of defence. The forts at Rox- bury are perfect, the ramparts which prevented the advance of the British troops are entire, the embrasures may be distinguished whence j '; 'ti ( m 1: U ' !•', m im PROSPECT HILL. — STANDARD. the cannon were fired, f (alf concealed with forest trees, and covered with wild flowers, they bring home to our minds the period when these hills were guarded by the militia of the eastern States, exposed to the inclemencies of the weather, and enduring every hardship for love of their country. On the cedars which surround the higher fort may be seen the Physcia chrysopthalma, which adorns the forests of Bondy, Fontain- bleau, and Thouars, in France, and is found in a few localities in the United States. On Prospect Hill General Putnam was en- camped, and issued orders to the division which he commanded. The foundations of their huts are still visible. From this hill may be seen all the positions occupied by the Ame- rican armies during the arduous struggle in the vicinity of Boston. This was the strongest fort of the Americans. One rampart is still entire. Prospect Hill is dear to every American ! Here the sacred standard of liberty was first displayed ! During the siege of Boston, the ladies in one of the New England States think- ing it a disgrace that, whilst their relations and friends were combating the enemies of their country, they should have no standard around ] STANDARD. — DORCHRSTRIl HRIOIITS. \lVi ir id wliich to rally in defeat, or advance to victory, purchased a piece of silk, and embroidered it with the motto, "An Appeal to Heaven." This was sent as a present to the army. On the 20th of July, 1775, the declaration of the American Congress was read, and at the con- clusion, the standard was unfurled on Prospect Hill. As its voluminous folds floated on a favoring breeze, the army gave a shout, and each soldier vowed he would free his country, or perish in the attempt. Some of the ladies who worked this standard may be still living, and deserve the thanks of their country. It is reserved for some American antiquary to dis- cover the fate of this sacred flag, whether it still continued to wave over the victorious legions of the Republic, or whether, on some disastrous day, it fell into the power of the hostile army. At Dorchester are some slight vestiges of ancient works, constructed by the army of America. In the late war, two forts were erected, which have superseded the old fortifi- cations. The following lines from Tasso are very descriptive of the hills at Dorchester : " Sovra due colli e posta D' iinpara altezza, o volti fronte a fronte, V'A per lu mezzo suo valle interposta, Che lui distingue, c I'uu d'all' altro inonte." '■I ■111 %\ ',■ :> I \l i 138 nORCHRSTRR H RIGHTS. In the valley between the two liills, the British, unun- the command of Lord Percy, intended t, inake an assault; but a storm arising, the boats which conveyed the troops were dispersed, and on the following day the defences were so much strengthened as to render them nearly impregnable. These hills can be seen at a great distance, and their circular and lofty summits always impressed me with the idea that I was in a free and happy country. The possession of these hills by the Ame- ricans enabled them to cannonade the British fleet, and compelled it to depart. The eastern States were then free, and sent forces to assist their allies at the south. \ I ■ li. i ■< ( I'W ) CHAPTER XXI. DR. CHANNINO. — BIOELOVV. — ATHEN^UM. — JOHN QUINCY ADAMS. — D^JEUN^. — COMMODORE HULL. — WEBSTER. — EVERETT. — DROOKS. — MBDFORO. — AUTUMNAL SCENERY. — FARM. — SALT-WORKS. At Boston, great attention is paid to the institution of the Sabbath, and attendance on divine worship is general. I went to the church where Dr. C banning officiates as mi- nister. It is a great luxury to the mind to listen to his discourses. I had the honor to be introduced to this gentleman, and called upon him at his house. He conversed with much pleasure about England, which he had recently visited. He said, "Any person might feel proud of being born in England ; it was a happy country. Human nature was there displayed in a very favorable light. He could not imagine any country to exhibit a greater scene of happiness and tranquillity.^* The visit of Dr. Channing occurred three years since, previous to the late temporary scene of distress. Dr. Channing possesses very little Mi» DAVIS. — niOKI.OW. — ATHKN-KUM. p: coiivcrsalioiKil liilcnl ; he seems to Ibllow llift train of liis own thouglits, luid speaks in the same elevated tone of feeling which distin- guishes all that he has written. Among the numerous individuals in Hoston to whom 1 was obliged for acts ot politeness and attention, which contributeil to render mv residence agreeable, was the Hon. Judge Davis, of the Supreme Court. On one occa- sion, when dining with this gentleman, he informed me that his house in South Street liad been the head quarters of General Bur- goyne. I had letters to Dr. W., nephew to General Warren, who fell in the battle of Bunker Hill. Dr. W. has an extensive li- brary, has published several essays on medical subjects, and is Professor of Anatomy in the Medical College connected with Harvard Col- lege. A letter from a friend in England intro- duced me to Dr. Bigelow, Professor in the Medical College, and author of Flora Bosto- niensis, a valuable work. To this gentleman's politeness I was indebted for an introduction to the Athenaeum. It contains a library of sixteen thousand volumes ; a recent subscrip- tion will add much to the collection. The reading-room, on the ground-floor, contains the newspapers of the United States, and of \ iL JOHN QUrNCY ADAMS. — COM. UU\.\.. Hi in's 'ip- lins of 11 V3 rorcio^ii countries ; with these I observed Coh- bett*s Journal. iMuopean and American Journals of Science are also placed here tor perusal. Uy an excellent arranj^^ement, the hooks are classed and placed in ditlerent rooms, by which means they can be more easily pro- cured, and can be perused without interrup- tion. At a large party I was introduced to the Secretary of State, the Hon. John Quincy Adams, late President of the United States. Mr. Adams seems to have no reserve or mys- tery, which arc sometimes considered as the accomplishments of statesmen, and conversed with much frankness on various topics. I in- troduced the subject of the Indians, and la- mented their gradual destruction. Mr. Adams said that many attempts had been made to civilize them, but without effect. " The pre- sence of the white man seemed to act as a scourge on them. One Indian required as much land for his maintenance as would sup- port a thousand white men in ease and afflu- ence ; Providence never could have designed that the progress of civilization should be re- tarded." Through the politeness of Dr. Warren, I received an invitation from Commodore Hull J 42 NAVY- YARD. — WEBSTER, to a dejeun6, given at the Navy Yard at Charlestown. In America there is a great fondness for all kinds of public rejoicings, and few opportunities are lost. A friend, who was living at Hancock House, had also received an invitation, and, hiring a coach, we proceeded to the Navy Yard. We were politely received by Commodore Hull, and found nearly a hun- dred gentlemen assembled from Boston and the vicinity. We proceeded to examine the vessels which were building, and two nearly ready for sea. The men-of-war were of the same gigmtic size as those at New York and Philadelphia. There was a frigate in the har- bor, said to have been captured from the Bri- tish in the last war, but my companion, a West-Indian, was incredulous as to the fact. At twelve o'clock we directed our course to a large store-room, which was handsomely deco- rated for the occasion. The room was sur- mounted by a great number of flags of various nations, and they formed a canopy over our heads. A splendid collation, with a variety of wines, was arranged in handsome style, to which, after our excursion, we did ample justice. At Boston I saw Mr. Webster, Member liber WEBSTER. — EVERETT. — BROOKS. — MEDKORD. I 13 of Congress. He has been a distinpfuished speaker on all subjects of national policy, and is considered the most liberal statesman of the present age in America. Mr. Webster has acquired celebrity by his orations at Plymouth, and on many other occasions. I had a letter of introduction to Professor Everett, and was glad of seeing an individual who has distin- guished himself in the literary history of his country. Professor Everett travelled in Europe several vears, and on his return read lectures on Greek literature at Harvard College. He has since relinquished his professorship to pursue the path of political distinction, in which, as he possesses great industry and talent, he will probably attain eminence. 1 received an invitation to pass a day with Go- vernor Brooks, at Medford, five miles from Boston. Colonel H — — accompanied me, and we went early in the morning to visit this soldier of the revolution, who was major in the army under the command of General Gates. He was afterwards Governor of the State of Massachusetts, and discharged the du- ties of his office to the full satisfaction of his fellow-citizens. Now retired from public life, he amused his leisure hours by the cultivation of a farm. We were most hospitably received. 144 BROOKS. — MEDFORD. tN: h'-i The Ex-Govcrnor hearing that I had some knowledge of mineralogy, said, he would show us a quarry in the rear of his house. On pro- ceeding there I found the hiH was composed of basaltic rocks, and the quarry exhibited the ter- mination of a la n number of columns. Some of them had six sides, but they were generally of an irregular structure. Near the surface the trap was much decomposed, the exterior of the columns was rounded, and a number of spheroids were lying in every direction, vary- ing from the size of a small cannon ball, to two feet in diameter. The elevation of the hill was about one hun- dred feet ; it was a mile long, and in various parts we observed the ends of rude columns on the surface of the ground. Governor Brooks expressed much pleasure in finding that he possessed so many basaltic columns, of whose existence he was not previously aware. There were still two hours before dinner, and Colonel H. and myself went to visit Pine Hill, which is elevated a few hundred feet above the surrounding country. The rock was composed of felspar, but we saw veins of trap rock crossing the summit. Here we en- joyed the most striking spectacle that can be imagined, and one that an European cannot 1 i I I AUTUMNAL DAY. 145 bet ock s of en- be inot form any idea of without being present. From the highest part of the hill we could overlook the country for many miles, and, as fai as the eye could reach, it appeared covered with an extensive forest — the spots of cultivated ground being hidden from view by the immense growth of woods by which they were surrounded. It was -Ml autumnal dav. The leaves of the trees do not wither and die as in England, but, pre- vious to this change, assume the most brilliant colors the mind of man can imagine, as if, by the dazzling splendor of the scene, to compen- sate for the desolate nakedness of the forest in winter. The American forests contain one hundred and thirty varieties of trees. Each of them assumes a different hue, and the leaves of a single tree have often different shades of color, according to their more or less exposure to the sun. The leaves of the various species of oak turn to different shades of brown ; the sumach, light red ; the sycamore and maple, yellow ; the walnut, light yellow ; when to these are added the various colors of the liriodendron and locust tree, and these contrasted and mixed with the deep green of the pine and mountain fir, it seems as if nature was determined to shew a spectacle which Europe could neither rival nor imitate, L i i I 14C HON. JONAH QUINCY. — FARM, IV 11 I Full of admiration of the scene we had wit- nessed, we returned to Medford, dined with Governor Brooks, and returned home highly gratified with our excursion. From the Hon. , Mayor of Boston, I received much attention. I was in- vited to dine at his country-house, and view his farm and salt-works. On my arrival, ! was pleased with the general appearance of the plantation; but it was at an unfavorable season, late in the autumn. The inclosures were large, and hedges were introduced in the ap- proaches leading to the house, but they did not appear to thrive. The English thorn does not stand the severity of the winter, and a species of thorn has been introduced from Virginia, which does not make so good a fence. The posts and rails which are used in America seldom last longer than ten or fifteen years, and it is a constant expense on a large farm to renew them. In many parts this is obviated by erecting stone walls, wh'ch clear the farm of rocks, by which cultivation would be im- peded, and make an excellent fence. The stone walls also aftbrd some protection to cattle against the cold winds. A great impediment to the improvement of agriculture in America is the dearness of labor. Good farm-servants 1 FARM. — SALT-WORKS. 147 ne are scarce ; because, as soon as they can realize a small sum of money, they can purchase land. They become freeholders and completely inde- pendent, by moving into the western country. On the farms, and frequently in the streets of Boston, may be seen the country waggons drawn by oxen of a gigantic size, but not well proportioned. Their color is of a deep black about the head and shoulders, and they appear docile. Wj went to view the salt-works, which are extensive. The evaporation is completed by the heat of the sun. Salt-water is pumped up by a wind-mill, and passes successively through different vats ; these are one foot deep, and fifteen feet square. They are covered by moveable roofs of wood, two of which are balanced on a long beam, and are shifted on or off the vats on the least variation of weather. In the eastern States, this mode of manufac- turing salt is common ; yet a sufficient quan- tity is not made to supply the demand of the country ; large importations are made from England and the West Indies. At the dinner-taL>le, we found a party of gentlemen from Boston ; and in agreeable so- ciety our time flew rapidly past. L 2 illj «l ( 148 ) Cir A PTKIi xxw. < EX-PUESIDENT ADAMS. — CHUISTMAS-DAY. The Hon. Josiah Quincy presented me with a letter of introduction to the Ex-Presi- dent, Mr. Adams, who resided at his country- seat, nine miles from Boston. Thev had been on the same side in political contests, and an intimate friendship had subsisted between them for many years. A letter from Mr. Quincy was, therefore, the best passport 1 could have. 1 was anxious to see one of those individuals who, after wielding the chief power of the Republic for a i'ew years, retires to the vale of private life, thus offering one of the most striking spectacles which the world ex- hibits. Mr. Adams was one of the surviving: signers of the Declaration of Independence, and signed the Treaty of Peace by which the Independence of America was acknowledged by foreign powers. On Christmas-day, 1823, the atmosphere cold but clear, and the ground covered with he led KX-PRK1SII)KNT ADAMK. IIJ) ice and snow, 1 hired a gig, and soon drove over to Quincy. I expected to see a good deal ot" parade and state about the residence of an ex-king ; hut there was httle either in the interior or exterior of the house different from others in the vi- cinity. The servant informed me that Mr. Adams was rather unwell, but 1 could proba- bly be received. 1 inclosed my card and letter of introduction, and the servant immediately returned, and ushered me into the apartment of the Ex-President. Mr. Adams received me in the most kind and courteous manner ; con- versation seemed to revive his spirits; be be- came animated, and, in a few minutes, quite forgot his slight indisposition. Mr. Adams expressed great attachment to agricultural pur- suits, conversed about his farm, and lamented that indisposition had confined him to his house for the last six weeks. One of my first remarks, and it was not per- haps very judicious, was, " that having filled one of the highest offices of the world, his name would be handed down to posterity, coeval with his nation's history ; and thus, having filled a very imjiortant niche in the temple of fame, 1 thouglit he must teel very well satisfied." % t ii- ■ft^'i' l^ i IfiO RX-PRESlUtiNT ADAMS. Mr. Adams replied, "that when I had lived as long as he had, I should think tame a mere breath, not worthy any person troubling him- self about. He thought differently once, but now saw its vanity." The Ex-President mentioned the great plea- sure he derived from his visit to England, as Ambassador from the United States, and said, he was introduced to many distinguished mem- bers of the Whig party. He particularly enu- merated Mr. Burke, Col. Barr6, Dr. Price, Dr. Jebb, and many others. George HI. received hirn very graciously. Lord North seemed to vieiv him with curi- osity, as if to ascertain what kind of antago- nists he had been contending with, Mr. Adams described with enthusiasm his visit to France, and said he was acquainted with most of the celebrated men in Pari? at that period. " Paul Jones was a very gSilant man, and never seemed happier than when he was writing poetry, and presenting ladies with bouquets of flowers." I said he was represented in England as a ferocious pirate, a relation to Bluebeard. The Ex-President replied, " He had been misrepresented for political pur- poses." We had much conversation on Gre- cian history, in which Mr. Adams possessed ;■! KX-rUKSlDKNT ADAMS. 151 greater information than any person 1 ever met. He cleared up many difficulties which I never before understood. [ mentioned the banishment of Aristides. Mr. Adams Si d, it was not a solitary instance. The republicans of Italy would not live in the same city with their enemies, and always banished them when they had the power. The Ex-President spoke of the Generals of the Revolution, with whom he was acquainted, and shewed me letters he had received from J i Fayette, of whom he spoke in the highest torr i. His most intense iffeiition seemed to rest on his son, the Hon. John Q. Adams. He re- peatedly dwelt on his character and attain- ments with all a iher's enthusiasm. On his son's election to the Presidency, no heart in America vibrated with more intense emotion than that of the venerable Ex-President. As I mentioned my intention to proceed to Wash- ington, he wished me particularly to call upon his son, and said, he would write to say that I should call. Mr. Adams invited me to remain at his house till the next day ; and I afterwards re- gretted I did not accept the invitation. In the hall I observed pictures, by Stuart, ij ii f 152 KX-PRESIDKNT ADAMS. of Washington, JeH'crson, Madison, and Mon- roe. Thus have 1 seen one of those chief magis- trates who, during their period of office, pro- bably exercise more power than their brother sovereigns of Europe, and then retire to private life ; where the grateful remembrance of their country, and the passing homage of the cu- rious traveller, are perhaps the only mementoes of the power they have wielded. ( ir)3 ) >' s- 0- te \y u- BS CHAPTER XXIII. MILITIA. ASSUMPTION OP POWER. — PARLIAMENT. PETI- TIONS. — EDUCATION. SCHOOLS. — ANNUAL DINNER. In the New England States, the militia pay attention to their exercises, and exhibit some regularity in their discipline. Every citizen who arrives at the age of twenty-one is com- pelled by law to have in his possession a musket and bayonet, and to enrol himself a member of some corps. They harve regular days for exercise, and field-days, when they are reviewed by the Governor of the State, and the General officers. I was present at ono of these reviews. Four thousand militia assembled in the Park. Their arms and accoutrements seemed in good order, and a mock engagement took place ; a rising ground was alternately attacked and defended, and the manoeuvres were directed with much spirit. The Park was surrounded by a concourse of spectators, who seemed to enjoy the [)leasure of the scene. The liberties of England have been consider- 154 ASSUMPTION OF POWKR.— PAKLIAMKNT h n I I fc' 'li ^i } ! , cd ill danger, because regular troops prevented persons passing in Pall Mall during the levees at Carlton House. There have been several debates on this subject in the British House of Commons. The militia of Boston exercise in the Park, over which there are several pub- lic paths. A friend of mine wished to try whether the militia of a republic exercised as much power as the regular forces of a mo- narchy. A battalion was exercising in the Park, and marching in various directions; he pursued a path which would lead liim through the ranks ; an officer stopped his progress, and asked him to go a short distance round. In the American republics, a stranger is gratified by seeing the parliaments. At Boston, I was present at the meeting of the representa- tives of Massachusetts. The people may send six hundred members, but as they are paid by the townships, only such a number are chosen as are considered necessary. If a township has any particular point to carry, it increases the number of its deputies. In times of great political excitement, five hundred representa- tives have met, and there is a great waste of time and of legislation. In the session of 1823, two hundred were assembled in the lower house. The hail is admirably adapted PKTITION8. i:)'» I for a popular assembly. The chair is ilovattd, and the benches for the members are arranged in an elliptical form, rising one above another ; every member can see and hear the business which is transacted. The Chamber is adorned with two fish carved in wood, the arms of Massachusetts, and a bust of Washington. The members began to assemble at ten o'clock, and at eleven, business commenced by choosing a Speaker, Mr. Jarvis of Pittsfield. Petitions on various subjects were presented from several towns, and referred to committees. There were three petitions from persons who wished to change their names, for this cannot be done without an act of the Legislature. Twenty persons applied for this privilege during the session. The members are paid nine shillings per diem, besides a certain sum for travelling ex- penses. They were well, but plainly dressed ; many wore their great coats and hats in the House. In passing the Chair they bowed, and great order prevailed. Here were assem- bled the representatives of one million of peo- ple to transact the business of their constituents. At one o'clock, the Secretary of the Com- monwealth, advancing with a firm step into the i ■I 1 ir A yl \ \5ii KDUCATIOX. House, addrcssutl the Speaker, and said lie luul a message from liis Excellency the dovernor ; it was presented, and tlie Speaker read it to the House. The message contained a general view of State affairs. A resolution passed to have it printed ; an adjournment was then moved till the next day at ten o'clock, and the representatives departed, each to his several home. On the following day I attended a meeting of the Senate. It consists of thirty members, who liave the same pay as representatives, but are chosen for two years. The Chamber where they meet adjoins the Hall, and is well furnished. The States take a pv'de in having their representatives well accommodated. The senators sat near a semi-circular table, and more order vvf»s preserved than in tlic other House. In New England attention is paid to educa- tion. A tax is laid on each township to sup- port free-schools, at which the children may attend. The poorest member of society has the satisfaction of knowing that his child may receive a common education. I received an invitation to attend the annual examination of the schools at Boston. It is conducted with much cercmonv ; the \ isitors \ SCHOOLS. — ANNUAL DINNRR. .U Is la 4 and (omiuoii Council divide into several par- ties, and to each arc allotted a certain number of schools. Our labors commenced at ten o'clock, and we visited four schools in succes- sion. The exercises were creditable to the pupils and to the masters, but I was surprised that the I^ancf^sterian system had not been in- troduced. At two o'clock the various com- mittees met, and proceeded to the Latin school, where a certain number of bovs who have dis- tinguished themselves in the English schools, are allowed to attend. This privilege excited emulation. The two best Latin scholars have a gold medal each, and dine with the Mayor, Aldermen, and Visitors. After the exercises were closed, in which there was a great struggle for the prize, a pro- cession was fornied by the visitors who attend- ed the examinations. We proceeded to Fa- neuil Hall, where a dinner was prepared for four hundred individuals, including the Go- vernor of the State, the l*resident of 1 larvard College, the Judges, the Visitors, the Mayor and Aldermen, and the two boys who had won the prize. A number of toasts and sentiments were given alter dinner, and the entertainment passed olT with eclat. ( !.">« ) in CHAPTER- XXIV. BLUE HILLS. — PORPHYRY. JASPER. SIENITE. — DANVERS.— SALEM. — NAHANT. — PROMONTORY. — NEWUURY PORT. — WALTHAM. The Blue Hills, at a distance of twelve miles, form a conspicuous feature in the scenery around Boston. I wished to examine the rock of which they were composed, and made an excursion to ascend them. They are elevated nine hundred feet above the surround- ing country, and are composed of sienite. The south side, by which I ascended, is much steeper than the north, which has a very gra- dual slope. On the sun mit the mountain is covered by dwarf oaks, three feet high, and twisted in every direction. It was during the Indian summer, which continues four weeks in October or November, and is the finest season of the year. The sky was perfectly clear, not a cloud v:'^ible, the air calm, and the atmosphere more pure than that of Italy. It is a luxury fm ' i PORPHYRY. JASPER. SIRNITR. I5i) to live in this fine climate; in breathing this pure atmosphere v c feel that we exist. Accompanied by a friend, 1 made a tour to Salem, fifteen miles east of Boston. We passed a range of porphyry hills, which attain an ele- vation of four hundred feet, and extend several miles. The porphyry has a compact base of jasper, in which are deposited crystals of fel- spar; these are in general minute, but are sometimes four lines in diameter. In some places there are veins of deep red jasper. The porphyry is excessively hard, or it m'ght be useful in the arts ; when polished, it is beauti- ful. The rock, in some instances, rises nearly perpendicular ; the whole range is covered with forest trees, which gain a scanty subsist- ence from the soil deposited in the ledges. A cottage, placed at intervals on the mountain, adds variety to the scene. The road winds round the base of the hill, and forms a very picturesque ride. It is the best road 1 have travelled in the United States, being made from the porphyry gravel, vvhicli from age to age has fallen from the summit of the hill. The porphyry terminates at Dan vers, five miles from Salem, and we observed hills of sienite. ^'^. the surface were immense detach- ed masses ui the same rov^k ; some were left in 4 n r \ ' = J()() DAN VK IIS. — S\; EM. the most singular positions, (^w rock rcsem- l)led a flat polygonal table wJtli five sides. Its longest diameter was thirty feet, and its thick- ness, which was uniform, about four feet. This rock table was standing on one of its sides, and, being covered with the black fronds of the ly- copodinm rnpestre, had a singular appearance. New England would be desolate, if it were not for the diluvial debris scattered between the barren summits of the liills, which presents a soil susceptible of cultiv'ation. The power of a deluge, capable of producing such a beneficial result, may be estimated by the force which has torn these masses of rock from their origi- nal position, and scattered them in profusion over the soil. They are monuments of Al- mighty Power. The rocks in the vicinity of Danvers give employment to a number of individuals, who conver*^ the blocks of sienite into millstones. The/ aiv; far inferior to those injported from Frant.v., out are advantageously used for some purposes. From this place they are sent to many parts of the United States. We arrived at Salem, and, driving to an hotel, took up our quarters for the night. On the following morning, we were invited to view the museum, which has been established several U.J ll' 1 to cw :ral I SALCM. H!l yoars. The terms of ad mission are diiieren». from any other society. None are allowed o become members, unless they have mad^ u voyage round the Cape of Good Hope, ov Cape Horn. They liave been assiduous in collecting the curiosities of the Indian Archi- pelago, and of the Pacific Ocean. The shells, corals, minerals, and Indian dresses, are ar- ranged with much taste and skill, in glass cases round a large hall. The inhabitants of Salem are engaged in commercial pursuits ; many have acquired great wealth. Their vessels are seen in every quarter of the globe where there is room for successful enterprise ; they are fitted out more economically, and sail at less expense than vessels from any other port in America. In returning to Boston, we travelled by the new road, which presents a scene of desolation. A range of hills extends three iriles from the town, composed of primitive t'ap. 'Us bar- ren : not a tree or shrub are visible The greater part of this range is destitute of soil r verdure of any kind ; nothing but the solid rock is to be seen. In a few places where a small quantity of soil is accumulated, it barely afibrds nourishment to a few blades of grass, or some varieties of lichen. It is the most desolate .1 ii I' 'i ■:\:AV-^# ]63 NAHANT PUOMONTOKV ; I' tract of country I have seen, altlioiigli in the vicinity ota rich and tlonrishing town. We arrived at a marsh, over which the road passes for eight miles. The road is straight and the surface level, unmarked by the slightest undulation ; the view is only relieved by the sight of stacks of salt hay, piled at irregular distances. In very severe winters this is used as fodder for cattle ; at other times, it is carted to the fanns and used as manure. The stacks of hay are elevated two feet above the level of the marsh, but they are frequently carried away by the retiring waves. In high spring tides the whole of this tract is overflowed by the ocean. This land mig'it be rescued from the sea at a small expense, but it is divided among numerous proprietors, who cannot afford to subscribe the necessary sums of money. I was invited by some friends to go to Nahant, a place of fashionable resort, in the summer season, for the inhabitants of Boston and other parts of Massachusetts. Nahant, twelve miles north-east of Boston, is a small, rocky promontory, extending into the ocean. It is joined to the continent by a narrow peninsula, one mile long, which is overflowed at high water. Quantities of sea-weed are i PROMONTORY. — ROCKS. \(i3 are thrown up by the waves on the beach, and the farmers are assiduous in collec'ting it. At low water, the sandy beach makes a fine road for carriages ; at other times, tiie approach is rough and unpleasant. This is of less conse- quence, because parties usually arrive and depart by the steam-boat. The rock affords grass sufficient to feed a few sheep, who take a journey every morning over the peninsula, and return to the main land at night. My friends, Mr. L and family, were at a farm-house, a short distance retired from the more crowded part of the promontory. The hotel was full, and so great was the demand for rooms, that every cottage was occupied. We took a walk to survey the wonders of the place, and found them more interesting than I had expected. The promontory is composed of porphyry and sienite, traversed in every direction by veins of trap. The walls of the veins are perpendicular, and vary in width from two inches to six feet ; they preserve a perfectly straight course. Epidote occurs in the veins. The black color of the rock has given rise to the idea that coal might be found, and excavations were made, but of course without success. M '-2 Mi: % \t 1U4 NAHANT. I ' hi tho vicinity ot the ocoan, the perpetual action of tlie waves lias gradimlly loosened the trap from its connexion with the neigh- boring rock, and left empty veins, sixty feet long, and twenty feet deep ; the sides are exact and regular, as if made by the most accomplish- ed architect, and are considered as great curi- osities. One is called Syrens' Crotto, and the others have different names as each return- ing tide brings new visitors to see them. The mineralogical structure of the island or promontory, for it is ^ither according to the state of the tide, resembles that of the Island of Arran, of which an account has appeared in the Transactions of the Geological Society of London. A large hotel has been erected for the accommodation of visitors, and, for a tempo- rary residence, it is delightful. The pure breeze from the Atlantic is refreshing, and the sight of the numberless vessels which sail between Loston and the ports of Maine, adds variety to the scene. The impetuous rolling of the waves upon the promontory in a storm is described, by those who have seen it, as a most sublime spectacle. The spray from the ocean is dashed over the houses like rain. NKWIUntV PORT. SA(,KM. mr* l''or a proloiig-ed residence if; is not desirahlc, on account of the absence of amusement ; the circumscribed boundary of the rock prechides some of the usual sources. But Fashion has fixed her residence here during the summer season. With a friend, I took an excursion to New- bury Port. We crossed the; porphyry hills, four miles from Boston, anil travi.'lled by the new road, which is made over iiill aiul valley, without any regard to the convenience of the traveller, except taking him to his place of destination by the shortest possible route. In many places, where a slight deviation would have led over ground perlectly level, the roati was directetl over the summit of the hills. Fifteen miles from Boston, we crossed the range of hills which extends to the vicinity of Salem, and saw deta(;hed masses of sienitc spread over the country. We measured one rock thirty-six feet long, thirty leet wide and twelve feet high ; it contained thirteen thousand cubical feet of sienite, and weighed, by calcu- lation, two hundred and eighty tons ; yet this, and other masses of a larger size, were scattered over the country like pebbles at the bottom of a brook. Their siu'face was variegated in color, arising from their being covered with :ii. 166 NKWIiUKY PORT. the yellow i.arineiia saxatiles, and the black lycopodium nipestrc. We sto|)peci at a small hotel, and observed, for the first time in America, a fire made of peat ; the smoke was offensive, and we were glad to depart. A furtlu r ride of fifteen miles, in viiich we passed in succession over rocks of trap, sienite, and serpentine, brought us in the evening to Newbury I'orl. This town is situated at the mouth of the river Merrimac ; and, in the first settlement of the country, was a place of great trade. Large quantities of lumber were shipped to the West Indies. The timber being cut off, this source of traffic has failed, and the town exhibits a state of decay. A fire had destroyed many houses and stores some time previous, and they had not been rebuilt. At the tavern, which was kept in good style, we were asked by some traveller whether we came from the north, east, west, or south ; and it was only by reference to the map, to see the direction of Boston, that we were able to answer this novel mode of inquiry. Engaging a private room, we were soon comfortably established ; and the tea, which was brought in about half an hour, was in I NKWUUHV TOUT - WAl.TIIAM. Ui't <|(iile (lilli-'ront style to a similar ciitcrtaiinneut in linglaiul. We had brt^ad, toast, biscuits, sweet-cakes, muliles, roast and boiled chickens, hams, dried beef, preserved apj)les, peaches, 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 "-T^ ^ > li Lr i \ ' 'r lii^ X ! i 1()8 BOSTON. are sold in the American market fifty per cent, below their price ten years since, and some are exported to foreign countries. I quitted Boston with regret ; my time had been agreeably employed. Many excur- sions had I taken in the surrounding country with a friend, who was an eminent botanist ; and I visited the forts so often, that I began to consider them as intimate acquaintance. Every evening I passed in delightful society. I *! 1 er id ( m ) ne ir- t; an ty. CHAPTER XXV. CHESTER. — WILMINGTON. — BRANDYWINE MILLS. — BATTLE- FIELD. — SNAKES. — INDIANS. On my route from Philadelphia to the south, I passed through Chester, a small town near the Delaware. Wilmington is the capital of the State of Delaware, and contains five thousand inhabi- tants. Brandywine River empties into the Dela- ware, two miles north of Wilmington. Ex- tensive mills are erected on this stream. They are constructed in a superior manner, and the flour they produce is of excellent quality. Four miles above are large paper-mills, in which machinery is introduced. At the house of Mr. , I was most hospitably enter- tained. The scenery is delightful ; the Brandy- wine is environed with precipices, the rocks are composed of basalt ; immense masses appear on the surface of the ground ; the mountains are covered with forest trees, and the walks on 1.1 V'' m i I ; W * 17(» MILLS. — BATTLK-KIELI). — SNAKES. the side of tlic river are picturesque. A wire bridge is thrown over the river for the conve- nience of travellers. Three miles beyond the paper-works are powder-mills, the most extensive in America. The gunpowder made there is of a superior quality, and the Government of the United States purchase large supplies from this es- tablishment. Seven miles higher up the stream is a battle-field of the Revolution ; the British army was successful, and La Fayette was wounded. I heard an anecdote of a gentleman of for- tune who formerly resided in the vicinity. He was fond of snakes ; he thouglit they were oppressed and ill-treated, and he would take their part. He accordingly collected a great variety of black snakes of the woods, garter- snakes, which are beautifully striped, and water- snakes, which inhabit ponds. He fed them regularly, and they became quite fa- miliar; they would twine affectionately around liim, and when he travelled, he generally car- ried one or two in his pocket as companions. Proceeding on my journey, I saw a band of Indians; I had long wished for an opportunity of seeing these wanderers of the forest, but can- Jiot say their apjiearance prepossessed me in IN'DIANS 171 of tluMi" favour. Iridocd, seen in the shade of a forest, they had more resembhmce to a group of banditti, such as are described in Mrs. Rad- clitfe's novels, than to any other class of men I can mention. It is but just to say, these were a mere detachment, sent out to collect supplies, and were not the chiefs or warriors of the tribe. Their countenances were embrowned by exposure to the weather, but their color was not darker than I have seen in some West-In- dians. They were five feet six inches high, stout- made and muscular, but there was no appear- ance of boldness about them ; their pridd had vanished like the fortunes of their tribe. They were not clad in the usual dress of Sons of the Forest, but wore the cast-off garments of white men, and each carried a package, con- taining hats, blankets, and clothing, on his back. Alas! the Indian Warrior-Chief! his destiny is changed. Their arrival and passage through the land produced as much excitement as it would have done in England. The children were terrified, and ran to conceal themselves; the older inhabitants flocked around, as if to gaze at some strange animals. At night they encamped in the open air, al- though the weather was severe. They marched !!' ^•1 172 INDIANS. I I. :r' i ;i I in Indian file, at the the rate of two and a lialF miles per hour. Tliey came to Elk Town on the following morning, and began to display their skill in shooting with bows and arrows, with which they were provided. Wo placed copper and silver coins on a post, at a distance of forty paces, and they seldom missed their aim. As the prize became theirs on striking it with an arrow, they seemed much pleased with the exhibition. It is said the Indians never change the expression of their coun- tenance, but on this occasion they displayed much animation. At the same time, in their general deportment, there was much gravity. Their constitutions must be hardened by exposure to the inclemencies of the vveather» but many of them perish by the hardships they endure. The sight of the Indians in this forlorn state does away with much romance on their envied state of liberty ; at least this was the case with myself. The picture which has been given of them by President Dwight, in his travels, ap- pears the most correct I have read. Although we may lament that the red man, as he is em- phatically called, should die at the approach of the white, as if his nature shuddered at the a[)proacl), yet no one who sees the fair and lid INDIANS. I7M I Moiirisliiiiij; settlements, villages, towns, and cities, with which the country is now spread, the improvements of civilization, can, for a mo- ment, wish it to be apiin reduced to a state of wildness and rudeness, to see again the wolf, the hear, and the serpent, take possession of that land which has been rescued from their dominion. A thousand white men will live where an Indian would find a scanty subsistence ; and no one could wish the former dispossessed that the latter might return. This would be, in effect, as if an Englishman should desire that the painted Celts and Picts should take possession of the flourishing islands of Britain, erect their huts of wood, feed their cattle in the fertile valleys, and amuse their leisure hours by making war upon the neigh- boring tribes. Such a state of things would not be desirable in England, neither would it be in America. The Government of the United States say, they do every thing in their power to preserve the few tribes who remain independent. Agents are appointed to take care of their interests, but too much intercourse takes place on the frontiers; the white men hunt on their grounds, which the Indians resent. 4 I V -', 174 INDIANh. The iiKlepcndent tribes ot" South America arc more civilized ; they are settled in villages, and, except the forcetl lahor of the mines, have been in other respects well-treated. The origin ot" the Indians of North America, may be traced from the rude stone monuments with which the country abounds. In a history of Virginia it is stated, tliat the Indians have posts fixed round their temples, which have men's faces painted on tliem. They are likewise set up around the most cele- brated places, and make a circle for them to dance round on solemn occasions. By the falls of James River, is a rock whereon are im- pressed marks like the footsteps of a gigantic man. These they aver to be the track of their God. They often set up pyramidal stones and pillars, to which they all pay outward signs of adoration and worship. At Uttamussac was a cubical rock of crystal, to which many nations paid an extraordinary veneration. Lewis and Clarke mention Little Maniton Creek, which takes its name from a figure of a man painted on a projecting rock. Maniton Creek, near which is a limestone- rock, covered with paintings of animals and in- scriptions. Ml INDIANS 17;') 1 fciiicpiii mentions large rocks worsliipcd l»y the Illinois, on the Mississipjji. Schoolcraft mentions ii white rock in I/.ike Huron, on which the savages make sacrifices, and an Indian maniton on an island, wiiich was nothing else than a rude rock ot" granite placed beneath a tree. In the fifth volume of the Massachu setts' Historical Collection, is an interesting account of the Oneida Indians. The pagan part of the nation regarded the Oneida Stone as the proper emblem of the Deity they worshiped. This stone is of rude, un wrought shape, rather in- clining to cylindrical, and more than a hun- dred pounds' weight. From whence it was originally brought no one can tell ; the tradi- tion is, it follows the nation in their wander- ings. The name of the nation is derived from it, for Oneida signifies the " Upright Stone." When set up in a tree, the people were sup- posed invincible. The earliest voyagers to America saw upon the coast circles of stones, placed by the natives as a religious observance. Pictured rocks are found in many places. At Scaticook, on the Housatonic, in the township of Kent, on the summit of a hill, is a rock covered with anticjue and unknown cha- racters. ' 1 : \ I7(» INDIANS. Pinnacle Mountain lias another rock oF the same kind. They occur at Altamaha River in (Jeorgia; IJrattleborough, in Vermont; on the Alleghany, fifteen miles below Venango, and on Cumberland river. On the mounds of the west, which are spread over the valley of the Mississippi, circular ranges of stones are sometimes discovered. Those who are desirous to pursue the in- quiry, may find ample confirmation of the above in the works of the early historians of America, and in the Spanish authors Torque- mada; Garcilasso de la Vega; and in Origen de los Indios de el Nuevo Mundo e Indios Occi- dentales, por el padre presentado, Fr. Gregorio Garcia, I i ( 177 ) CIIAPTKIl XXV^I. EXjK town. — lord HOWE.— SKSSILL.— HAVnE DE GRACE. — MARYLAND. — IRON-SAND.— RAVINES. i The I5ritisli army, under the command of Lord Howe, landed near Elk Town, on dieir route to attack Philadelphia. 1 conversed with an individual who remembered the arrival of the troops. Their first operation on landing was to disperse over the country. They after- wards took possession of Elk Town, and their head quarters were established there for several days. The waterfall of Sessill has probably never been visited by any other English traveller, nor can I say a great deal in praise of its magni- ficence, or the beauty of its scenery. The cascade has a fall of fifteen feet, over a rock of granite, and is surrounded by shrubs and trees. Arriving near it, after travelling over a flat and uninteresting country, I was pleased with its wildness. 1 now arrived at the Susquehanna, but this N i I» .1 N f I7H HAVRK OK (IHACK— TIFRniNOS— Wn.D-VOWI-. was not i\\v jiart of its roiirsc; vvlirre I wislicd to view it, and 1 liad to |)osti)onu to a liitun; period my intended pilgrimage. I crossed at tlic ferry, and arrived at Havre de Grace. Tins town had been lately rebuilt, after being- destroyed by order of Admiral Cockbnrn, in tbe beginning of the last war. The Americans state that this town was destroyed before their troops commenced the conflagrations in Canada. Whoever began, it was setting a bad example; because the usual accompaniments of war arc sufficient, without adding to its horrors. 1 asked the landlord of the hotel why the town was destroyed. He said, the English were so enraged at its having a French name, that they burnt it out of spite, as well as a small settle- ment, called French Town, in the neighbor- hood. In the Susquehanna, near the Bay of Chesa- peake, the fishermen take large quantities of herrings in the spring of the year. Forty thousand fish are sometimes caught at a single haul of the seine. They are salted and packed in barrels ; but the produce of the fisheries is sometimes so great, that they cannot cure all they take. They are then used as manure upon the land. The Susquehanna is near four miles wide, ^ ■ I MARYF,/VNI). — IRON-SAM). — HAVINKS. J7}» k and a great miinber of wild-t'owl live on its surface. There is a peculiar species of wild duck, called canvas-back ; tliey are sent to the markets of New York and Philadelphia, and arc a great rarity. On entering Maryland, 1 perceived a great difference in the farms and plantations ; the inclosures were large, containing from sixty to one hundred acres of land. The dwelling- liouses were more scattered, and half the country was covered with wood. The soil was of a bright red color, belonging to the iron-sand formation, and contained in some places argillaceous iron ore. This forma- tion is two hundred miles long, and fifteen miles wide. Formerly, ten iron forges were in operation on different parts of this range, and were supplied with iron ore from this tract of country. Ore of a superior quality is now found in other States, and most of the iron- works have been relinquished. The soil is not very fertile; on the decli- vities of the hills the rain makes ravines of a considerable depth ; there is not a sufficient covering of grass to prevent the action of the water. These deep ravines, of an intense red color, may be seen at a great distance, and form a peculiar feature in the landscape. N 2 ;n ( »«w ) CHAPTER XXVII. BALTIMORE. — FOUNTAINS. — EXCHANGE. — BATTI-E-MONU- MENT. — OENilKAli ROSS. UATTLE. MILITIA. INTKENCH- MEXTH. — BRITISH FLEET. — OREKK HALL. — l'UIN(,'E MURAT. — MR. CARROLL. Baltimore contains sixty thousand inha- bitants, and is built on the river Patapsco, near its junction with the Bay of Chesapeake. At Fell's Point, the port to which foreign vessels resort, there is depth of water sufficient for the largest ships. Small sloops sail up to the town. The growth of Baltimore has been without a precedent, even in the annals of America. It is advantageously situated for commerce: the trade of the Susquehanna chiefly centres in this port, and it has a communication with the interior by excellent roads. Its position is favorable for trade with the West-India Islands and with the ports on the Spanish Main. The sharp schooners built at Baltimore make very expeditious voyages, and are well adapted to the harbors of Mexico. In the last \ i St 1 HALTIMORK. — RATTLE-MONUMKNT 181 war, the privateers from Baltimore did great injury to the commerce of England, as they almost defied pursuit. The mr . striking feature in the character of the inhabitants of Baltimore is their fondness for architectural display. In no city of th(^ United States are there so many good build- ings. It has been called the City of Monu- ments, and on every s"de you behold fountains, churches, columns, monuments, and public buildings, of various descriptions. Many are built in a correct style. The fountains arc placed in different parts of the city. The water falls into a marble reservoir, surrounded by a railed inclosure ; you descend to the fount by a few marble steps, and the arrangement is at once classical, and of great public utility. The water is conducted underground, from a distance of two miles. The Battle-Monument is a chef-d'oeuvre of art, situated in a small square adjoining the main street. A figure of victory rests one hand on a reeded column, representing the fasces of the Roman consuls, but destitute of an axe. It is placed on a square plinth. The names of those who were killed in the engage- ment with the British troops are inscribed on various parts of the monument. !. i 182 rUBI-lC BUILDINGS. A monument to tlie memory of General Washington consists of a column, two hundred and twenty feet high. It is built of white marble, on an eminence a short distance from the city. The Exchange is a large edifice of white marble, not yet completed according to the original plan. The Unitarian Church is the most magnifi- cent place of worship in the United States. It cost near one hundred thousand dollars. The pulpit and steps are of marble. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is splendid in the interior. It is adorned with several paintings presented by the King of France. I attended the celebration of the Roman Catho- lic service, and was much gratified by observing that, amidst the pomp and ceremony of their religious observances, the utmost devotion was shewn by the congregation. The Lyceum of Natural History has a handsome suite of rooms, and their collections are extensive and increase rapidly. The Athenaeum is supported with much zeal, and contains the usual variety of news- papers, reviews, and magazines. The Medical College has attained celebrity, and a great number of pupils resort to it from ¥ \ OKNKRAL ROSS. 1 8a :h 'S- I ( all parts. The number of students was nearly three hundred. Having letters to several gentlemen in Baltimore, 1 received every at- tention. I became acquainted with Dr. Ilay- den, author of a work on the alluvial formations of America. The cabinet of minerals belong- ing to Dr. H. contains many valuable speci- mens. I had the pleasure of being introduced to Major Somerville, the author of " Letters from France." They display much liberality of sentiment. He escapes a common fault in political writings, where so much declamation is wasted against tyranny : it should be em- ployed against the people who allow it to exist. ^ During the last war, the majority of the in- habitants of Baltimore belonged to the Demo- cratic party. In every house at which I visited there were engravings of those naval engage- ments betwe3n the British and American fri- gates in which the latter were successful. In the skirmish in the vicinity of Baltimore the brave General Ross was killed. Although his death preserved Baltimore from attack, I heard several regret his fall. Accompanied by Captain , who had been in the engagement, 1 proceeded to the 1 I I 184 BATTLK. MII.ITIA. field of battle, seven miles from the city, and saw the spot where the Cjleneral fell. It is one hundred and thirty paces from a small monu- ment, erected to a citizen of Baltimore, who was killed in the engagement "while bravely defending his country and his home." It was near an old gnarled oak, which had a greater resemblance to the fine trees of England than any other I have seen in America. After the skirmish in which the General was killed, the British army advanced, and before two o'clock came in sight of the militia, who had been de- tached from the main army near the city. They we/e chiefly citizens of Baltimore, who had requested permission to meet the invaders. At first they numbered two thousand five hundred men, but two regiments on the left retreated when the British came in sight. The action which ensued was maintained by seven- teen hundred Americans ; the British were five thousand regular troops. Captain ■— said, when the British army came into the field, it was a beautiful sight to behold their ma- noeuvres, they seemed perfect masters of the art of war ; flanking parties were detached to the right and left, and in a few minutes the fire of musketry commenced. The Americans were drawn up in line, at I i I BATTLE. MIMTIA. 185 It tlic edge of a wood, with some cleared ground in front. Captain was stationed with his company on tlie right wing. Tlie British fired so high, that his men were much incommoded by showers of leaves cut from the branches. The trees were marked by bullets, and had every appearance of having suffered in the contest. The left wing of the Americans was defenceless, and flanking parties of the British met with no opposition in that part of the field. In a short time, they made a circuit which threaten- ed to cut off the retreat of the main body and right wing of the Americans. Captain and his regiment sustained the fire of the enemy about half an hour; at this time, the main body of the English were advancing at forty paces in front, and the fire of the flanking parties was heard in the rear. It was neces- sary to retreat, and it was effected just in time to escape ; parties of British troops had nearly occupied the road. The ground then exhibited the usual appear- ance of a field of battle. The dead and wound- ed were lying in all directions — the latter were seeking for shelter in the fore&t ; and the rf>ads were covered with knapsacks, and all the para- phernalia of war, which were thrown aside as an incumbrance. Militia are exposed to a '> i i Mi IHG INTRENCHMENTS. — BRITISH FLKKT. great disadvantage, in a contest with regular troops, from not being accustomed to the mih- tary art. The lines constructed by the Americans on the hill above the city were very strong, and extended two miles ; they consisted of a breast- work of earth, with a ditch in front, and re- doubts at intervals, provided with cannon. Behind this intrenchment, the militia could have fired with perfect security. The face of the hill over which the British must have marched was traversed in every direction by deep ravines, which must have disordered the ranks of troops advancing to the attack. The Americans had assembled fifteen thousand mi- litia to defend the lines. General Ross intend- ed to make a night attack, but his death put a stop to the further progress of the British army. They advanced within sight of the lines, and at night slept on the ground. Their fires illuminated the horizon. The house in which the picquet-guard was stationed bore evident marks of having been occupied by a military force. Loop-holes were cut for mus- ketry, and every preparation made for defence. Another circumstance decided the retreat of the British army. The fleet had attacked a fort which defended the harbor, and bombarded \ OREKK BAIiL. — MR. CARROLL. 187 a it a whole day, without effect. A detachment of seamen passed the fort in the night, with the intention of landing in the rear, but were obliged to retreat by the fire of a battery, of whose position they were previously ignorant. The advance of the British fleet was thus pre- vented, and they could render no assistance in the attack. A great sensation was created in America in favor of the Greeks ; subscriptions were raised in the different cities, and it was agi- tated in Congress to send a deputation to ascertain their chance of success. At Bal- timore a ball was given in honor of their cause, and the proceeds were to be devoted to their service. Major Somerville asked me to accompany him ; we proceeded at eight o'clock to the assembly room, and were in time to witness a short ceremony which preceded the ball. Two Greek boys were introduced, dressed in the costume of their country, and a circle being formed, they were led to the higher part of the room, where Mr. Carroll and General Harper were standing. Mr. Carroll welcomed the boys to America, and they returned thanks for the honor conferred on them. I was much pleased with the opportunity of seeing Mr. f m IKH URKRK liALIi. — IMIIXCK MUIIAT. Carroll ; lie was one of the surviving signers of Independence. After this introduction the music began, and we cominenced dancing quadrilles, which continued with some intervals, till one o'clock. Tiie assembly room was handsomely deco- rated and ornamented with festoons of laurel. On the walls were inscribed many scenes of Grecian renown, and the names of her heroes, both of ancient and modern time: Coloco- trini — Themistocles — Odysseus — Alcibiades — Canaris — Maurocordato — Salamis — Marathon — Sparta. Prince Murat, son of the late King of Naples, was present at this ball. In one of the intervals of dancing I was introduced to him, and in conversation he expressed himself much pleased with America. Prince Murat was proceeding to Florida, to reside on a plantation which he had purchased. Pie was dressed in black, very unlike the bril- liant picture of his father, clothed in splendid regimentals, and leading the cavalry of France. But as the Prince seems to possess a well-regu- lated mind, he will probably enjoy more true happiness in the retirement of private life, than his father surrounded by the splendor of a throne. On the day succeeding tlie ball, we had an /: ORRRK BAM,. — PRINCE MURAT. 180 agrccaMe dinner [)arty at the house of R. G — , Esq., who is distinoujshed by his attachment to science, and has a well-arranged cabinet. He has also cultivated a taste for the Fine Arts, and his collection of paintings is exten- sive, and contains some of the first masters. Our party consisted of R. and W. G., Esqs., Prince Murat, General Devereux, Major So- merville and myself. General D was proceeding from Colum- bia on a mission to some court in Europe. The dinner was excellent, the wines of the finest flavor, and, our spirits well attuned, we kept up an animated conversation, until the lateness of the hour obliged us to depart. ( IJ'«^ ) CHAPTER XXVlll. OEOIiOOY. — CAROLINA SLAVES. — BATTLE OP IlLADENSBURGH. — WILLOW GROVE.— CEDARS. — COCOONS. IF 'i? In the immediate vicinity of Baltimore, is a range of primitive rocks, which are interest- ing, because, if there is any doubt about the stratification of granite in any other part of the world, there can be none at this locality. A small river crosses the strata at right angles, and on the steep bank the varieties of rock may be easily distinguished. They consist of alter- nating strata of hornblende slate, mica slate, gneiss, and granite, inclined at an angle of about 70". The strata vary from two to twenty feet, but are usually four feet in thickness. They are separated by thin layers of slate and green earth, and sometimes contain layers of quartz. The strata of granite vary from six to thirty feet in thickness, but are not of such frequent occurrence as the other rocks. I could only recognize the granite in four distinct localities. CAROLINA SLAVKS l!)l lent nly ies. By lollowing the stream towards its source more strata ini^ht be discovered. The granite is of a large grained variety, de- composes by the action of tlie atmosphere, and has a tendency to assume the spheroidal form. These rounded masses are fifteen feet in diame- ter,and maybe seen near the surface of the ground. It is only by a careful examination of the neigh- boring rock, that the stratification of the gra- nite can be discerned. Beyond this formation is a range of serpentine called the Bare Hills, because, on account of the large quantity of magnesia they contain, they are barren. This rock contains many varieties of magnesian mi- nerals, and a great quantity of chromate of iron. It occurs massive, crystallized, and in grains like sand ; forming a bed for some of the small winter torrents. In consequence of the abundance of this mineral, a manufactory of chromate of lead has been established in Baltimore. At Baltimore I was acquainted with a gen- tleman from South Carolina, who gave me some information respecting the treatment of slaves in that State. On the rice and cot- ton plantations the negroes are set task-work. They have a certain quantity of land to culti- vate ; when that is kept in proper order, they Hi ft. lU'J CAllOMNA SI.AVRS. iiifiv 7 Jlt'iits are high and the price of living extravagant. The Potomac flows at the dis- tance of a mile from the Capitol ; an extensive marsh intervenes ; the exhalations which it produces in autumn are noxious. The se- nators assembled at Washington breathe an atmosphere similar to that inhaled by the ancient senators of imperial Rome. On arriving at Washington I went to an hotel and remained there several days ; but found the mode of living very disagreeable. The common room was crowded ; newspapers were ranged on one side, and the bar-room at the other. I was glad to retreat to a private boarding- house, where there were several members of Congress, and every thing was conducted in an agreeable manner. 1 had letters to the Secretary of state, the Hon. J. Q. Adams, and being informed that I should probably meet him at his office, I went there at twelve o'clock. After waiting a few minutes in the anti-room, 1 was shewn into an apartment handsomely furnished ; Mr. Adams was occupied with some dispatches from Foreign courts, and received me with great politeness. As I had visited his father re- cently at Quincy, 1 was enabled to mention ) f m V.)S WASHINGTON. the State of his health. We conversed, among other topics, on the accounts which had been published of America by English travellers. Mr. Adams said, that the descriptions of Miss Wright, though rather overcolored, were nearer the truth than any others. This is decidedly my own opinion. A traveller may easily give an unfavorable account of any country by selecting those objects which are repulsive. Mr. Adams wished to introduce me to the President at the next levee, and inquired my address that he might call. I returned home much gratified with my visit. I had letters of introduction to the Hon. Judge , of the Supreme Court, and to several members of both Houses of Legislature, and had thus an opportunity of viewing every thing worthy of interest at Washington. I visited the Navy yard, but there was no- thing very different from establishments at other ports. The Capitol is an immense pile of building, but it was not finished on the exterior, so that 1 had no opportunity of judging of its general effect as a work of art. It is situated on the brow of a hill, in a commanding position. It contains the Hall of Representatives, Senate Chamber, Supreme Court, Library, Committee- / • I by i ) '4 HALL OK REPRESKNTATIVES. 199 rooms, and apartments for the Speaker of the House and Vice-President. The first impression on entering the Hail of Representatives, is the air of magnificence which prevails. No expense has been spared to promote the convenience of the members ; it has an air of luxury resembling the interior of a palace. St. Stephen^s Chapel presents a stronger contrast to this Hall, than can be found in any two buildings devoted to the same object. 1 have not seen the Representative Halls of continental Europe, but I believe that none can vie with that of America in beauty of decoration. The interior of the hall is in the form of a semicircle. The roof is supported by twenty-two columns of breccia marble, surmounted by white marble capitals. On the floor of the Hall are seats for the members, arranged towards the outside of the semicircle, and the chair for the Speaker near the centre. Every member has an arm-chair and a separate table, furnished with a drawer. Over the Speaker's chair is a crimson canopy, sur- mounted by the figure of an eagle, with her wings extended. Above the base of the cornice is a statue of the Goddess of Liberty, holding in her right I II !l h I ; \n Ihl, .( '(■ 200 HALL OF RKPRESENTATIVES. hand a baton, with which she points to the hall. The gallery has three rows of scats, and the floor is carpeted : any respectable person gains admission, without a fee being demanded. The roof of the hall is formed by a vaulted dome; in the centre is a skylight; the ceiling is painted in panels. The business before the House is arranged by committees. A very important power is given to the Speaker ; he nominates the mem- bers to serve on these committees ; but if the power was abused, it would be speedily re- sumed by the representatives. In America, men in public offices are always paid for their services. The members of Con- gress receive six dollars per diem, and the same sum for every twenty miles they travel. Several attempts have been made to raise the rate of compensation, but it has uniformly been resisted by the people. During one ses- sion, a law was passed, allowing each member fifteen hundred dollars whether he remained a longer or shorter time at Washington. At the next election, those who voted in favor of this motion were not returned to the House, and the law was rescinded. Newspapers are numerous in every part of the country, and the I t w i .' 1 MALI. OF REPRESKNTATIVES. 201 I I people exercise great vigilance. Tlic members are compelled to obey the popular voice. Members who arrive first, have the choice of seats, which is an object of some conse- quence. The Federalists and Democrats, or whatever parties happen to prevail, those in power and those out, are thus mingled together, and not divided into separate phalanxes, as in the British House of Commons. In times of great political excitement, parties take oppo- site seats, as was the case during the last war. Mr. Clay was Speaker of the House of Re- presentatives, and presided with much firmness and discretion. The members wore their hats, and few seemed to be attending to the debate ; some were reading newspapers, others writing let- ters ; but the subject under consideration was the tariff, and had been so often debated, that it could excite little interest. The House meet at twelve o'clock, and usually adjourn at four. The representatives are nominated by the respective States in the proportion of one for every forty thousand in- habitants, but a great diflference exists in the mode by which they are returned. The peo- ple of some States return the members direct .'1' ■■■' ■ ■ i » ('I 1 • m li H '■ y* I i 202 HALL OF IIKPRKSKNTATIVKS. to the House ; in others, they are chosen Uy the State Legislatures. The fees of the Serjeant-at-Arms are not so numerous as those of his brother in office, em- ployed by the Parliament in England — two dollars for serving a summons, and the same sum per diem, while he detains a member in custody. The only test required of members, when entering on the duties of their office is, that they express a belief in the truth of the Chris- tian religion. What this is, must be left to their consciences to decide. Michigan has sent a Catholic priest as her representa- tive, yet there is no complaint that he does not fulfil the wishes of his constituents. It is considered requisite by the members to distinguish themselves by making long speeches in the house. Those are printed and dispersed over the country. The members do not exer- cise the summary power used by the House of Commons, of compelling indifferent speakers 1'^ be silent. The representatives keep up a constant intercourse with the State from which they are sent ; they write letters to the princi- pal persons of their party, or send them news- papers containing the debates. A stranger cannot see any difference amongst y MALI, OK REPRRSKNTATIVES. 2(»3 ^ I the individuals here assembled. Members from New Hampshire or Indiana, from Georgia or Mississippi, appear to have no peculiar charac- ter or dress by which they can be distinguish- ed. Conversing with a judge of the Supreme Court on this subject, he said, those who had been in Washington several winters could tell immediately from which State a new member was sent. If it were productive of no other good effect, the federal union of the States is useful in bringing together individuals from a wide extent of territory, and thus obliging them to associate must lessen a great number of pre- judices. In this Hall are assembled the representa- tives of twelve millions of people, — from those who live on the borders of the great lakes, and those who reside on the shores of the Mexican sea. The Penobscot, the Merrimac, the Con- necticut, the La Moille, the Hudson, the Housatonic, the Raritan, the Delaware, the Susquehanna, the Potomac, the James, the Roanoke, the Santee, the Illinois, the Ohio, the Missouri, the Kenhawa, the Mississippi ! these rivers flow into the same ocean ; their representatives meet in the same hall ! Viewing from the gallery the representatives i n ( I 204 SAllBATH-DAV. — SEXATK CHAMBER. ,1 ' ■!! I . ■ i of SO many millions of people, assenibltcl in council, I felt it as the most sublime spectacle I liad over witnessed. On the Sabbath-day, the principle which extends its influence through all the States of North America, and which decrees religious freedom to all, is strongly exemplified. A chaplain is appointed by Congress, without any reference to his religious opinions. They have sermons alternately from Episcopalians, Presbyterians, and Methodists, &c. Divine service is performed in the Hall ; the chair of the Speaker is occupied as a pulpit ; the mem- bers of Congress, of the United States' govern- ment, and strangers, and a number of ladies, attend. This hall, which on the week-day is the arena of political debate, and the theatre of angry discussion, is converted into a church for the worship of Almighty God. Members who, a few days previous, were directing to- wards each other looks of hostility, now kneel in worship. It seems as if United America was here appearing before her God, and offer- ing a pledge that, in her political career, she would reverence his laws. The Senate Chamber is built on the same plan as the Hall of Representatives, but on a smaller scale. The gallery is open to all. I :¥"■' (JKNKRAL JACKSON. — SUPRKMR COURT. 2(t. was introtlucetl hy a seitator into the saloon, which is on the floor of th■■• * s;-J ,'IM 208 INSTITUTE. — PATENT OFFICE. — LEVEE. Attention is paid to science at Washington. The Columbian Institute ranks in its list of its associates many eminent political charac- ters. A tract of land has been given to the Institute by Congress, and will be cultivated as a botanic garden, when the necessary funds are raised. A handsome room has been granted for their use in the Capitol. Dr. Thornton, of the Patent Office, shewed me a number of models of inventions of various kinds, which have obtained patents in the United States. Mr. Adams invited me to attend the ievee. A friend, who was at the same hotel, had the same attention ; we ordered a carriage, and proceeded to pay our respects to the President of the United States, Mr. Monroe. As we ap- proached the mansion, we saw many carriages going and returning ; on alighting, we were shewn into a large hall, and then proceeded to the room where the principal part of the com- pany was assembled. The President was standing at the higher part of the room, conversing with some of his guests, and at a little distance was a rather elc^^ated chair, which in Europe might be called a throne. My friend and myself were introduced, and admired the manly frankness : \ ; LKVKE. 20!) and decision of the Chief Magistrate of a free people ; tliere seemed no attempt at display. Mr. Monroe wore a sword. Where so many were pressing forward to be introduced, we could not expect to engross much of the President's conversation, and a few sentences only were exchanged, in which he expressed his pleasure in seeing us, and hoped we were pleased with our visit to America. We were afterwards introduced to Mrs. Mon- roe, who stood at a little distance on the right of the President, and after making our bow, were at liberty to contemplate the scene around. At the levee were assembled mem- bers of Congress, ambassadors from foreign courts, judges, naval and military officers, in- dividuals from the twenty-four United States, and strangers from Europe, all anxious to pay their respects to the Elected Chief of North America. The levees are attended by ladies and gen- tlemen, which makes them more agreeable than if the fairer part of the creation were excluded. Two rooms were thrown open on this occa- sion; besides that in which wc were first intro- duced, there was an oval room, which had a full-length picture of CJeneral Wasliington, painted by Stuart. i V. fir i\ I Ui 2J0 WASHINGTON. — DINNER PARTIES. E i A r. ' This levee was on the evening of March 3rtl, on which clay, every four years, the President enters into office. Conversing with a member of Congress, he observed, " On this night twelvemonths, this house will have a new occupant." He was probably, amid the cere- mony of the levee, revolving in his mind the merits of the various candidates, and deciding tor whom he should vote. I was introduced to Mr. Clay, Speaker of the House ; he is distinguished by his frankness of manners ; and to Mr. Calhoun, who was, at that time, Secretary of the War Depart- ment, and a general favorite v/ith all parties. Mr. Crawford, Secretary of the Treasury, was in ill health ; he was not present. Wine was handed round, and, partaking of a glass and silently wishing success to liberty, under whatever form of government it is ad- ministered, we retired from the court of the American President. At Washington, the meeting of Congress is the signal for the commencement of a series of dinner and evening parties, which continue without interruption until its close. The President gives two dinner-parties in the week, to which members of Congress are invited in succession. It is the etiquette to WASHINGTON. — DINNER PARTIES. 211 ress IS ries of iitinue The the s are tte to invite each member twice during the session ; of course the intimate friends of the President are invited more frequently. The Vice-Presi- dent, the Secretaries of the Army, Navy, Treasury and Foreign affairs, and the Speaker of the House give, each of them, entertain- ments once a week. To these dinners, the members of Congress, foreign diplomatists and strangers are invited. I remained only ten days at Washington, but during that time was at two dinner-parties at the Secretary of State's, the Hon. J. Q, Adams. Many senators and members of the House of Representatives bring their families to Washington and take a house during the session. Every evening there are one or more parties. The President has great power in the ap- pointment to office, and exercises more power than many sovereigns of Europe. There the most laborious duties of office are transferred to the ministers, and the monarch may aui himself at leisure. In America, I was in- formed that applications for office were usually made direct to the President, and he has a number of arduous duties to perform. On the election of President, tlie great question of the American form of government p 2 1 ! !' 'f W ' i m \'^ *'\' \ 1 f '(. V 212 KLKCTIOX. will depend. To be chosen the first magis- trate of miHions of freemen ; to be elevated to an office which places its possessor in a situation to vie with the throned sovereigns of the world, is such a tempting object to human ambition, that in the course of cen- turies the United States will be involved in war, arising from disputes about contested elections. They will of course pass through the usual circle of political change. m m 3 1 I ,v CHAPTER XXX. KOllT WASIIINGTON.— FOSSIL HHKLLS. — MOUNT VERNON. — ST. MAUy's ^.IVliR. From WasliiMgtoii I directed my course towards the south. At Fort Washington I wished to acquire some information respect- ing the fossils in that vicinity, and called on Colonel Armistead, the commandant of the Fort. He immediately insisted that I should take up i. y quarters at his house, said he would assist me in Uiy researches, and, by staying a few days, I could make a large collection. The fort is situated on a point of land on the shore of Potomac. It has been recently built at a great expense. There are eighty twenty-four pounders mounted on the batteries, to prevent an enemy's fleet passing up the river. In the last war, when the British laid Alexandria under contribution, some cannon were brought to this point ; but not being ; 1)1 ! V i.; I :1 ' M 211 FOSSIL SHELLS. Stationed in a regular I)attery, ihey were easily silenced by the fire of the British fleet. Colonel Armistead introduced me to the officers of the garrison, exerted himself in the most friendly manner to make my residence agreeable, and accompanied me in my rambles. 1 was much pleased with the beauty of the scenery — the noble Potomac — the fortress frowning on its bank — the cultivated fields and the woods — where, in spring, the dogwood and red-bud contend which shall be earliest in bloom — the wild vine throws its luxuriant foli- age, in festoons over our path — where the laurel vies in beauty with the magnolia — and the tulip-tree and chestnut rise in majesty towards the sky. Here I first noticed the honey locust, which grows forty feet high, and is defended by sharp thorns, like bayonets, on its trunk ; they bend downwards and are near eighteen inches long. The tree bears a large pod, which has a sweet taste. Thn fortress is built on a green sand for- mation ; in digging the foundations they threw out hundreds of fossils. [ have traced this formation in various parts of New Jersey, Maryland, and Virginia, an extent of four hundred miles, and its character is uniform. i KOSSIL SHKLLS. 2ir> It also extends through the Carolinas and Georgia. It is ten miles wide, and the stratum which contains fossils is about twenty feet thick. This is composed of fossil shells, sepa- rated by a small quantity of sand or marie. Sometimes the fossils have no intervening sub- stance between them. The marie and sand are colored green by the hydrated protoxide of iron. The fossils which it contains arc innu- merable, and consist of specimens of pecten, cardium, area, ostrea, and many others. Bones of antediluvian animals are found in various parts of this range. The ichthyosaurus, croco- dile, and shark, must have abounded in these regions anterior to the history of man. In the ravines in the vicinity, there is a fine opportunity to collect specimens. The shells frequently occupy more space than the sub- stance in which they are imbedded. Some- times the marie is indurated and resembles a rock by its hardness ; this variety affords the most perfect casts of shells. This marie has been used upon the land as manure, by the neighboring planters, with a beneficial effect ; it contains a large quantity of carbonate of lime. After remaining three days at the hospitable mansion of Col. Armistead, and having made ! il f •ill ^1: it 'Ir kf t 1 \l: ill' LM() MOUNT VKRNOX. a collection of tbssJIs, I wished to visit Mount Vernon, the residence of General V^ishington. Col. Arniistead was j)reventcd from accom- j)anying- me by an apimintmeiit, hut he ordered the j^arrison barge to he manned, and ))iaced it under my conunand. As 1 intended after- wards to proceed on my tour, I took leave of my friend. I embarked in the barge and had a most delightful excursion. The morning was fine, and the waves of Potomac clear ; numbers of wild ducks were swimming on the surface, and the passage of the barge compelled them to take flight. Mount Vernon has been so often described, it is scarcely worth while to enter into a minute description. The Hon. Judge Bush- rod Washington had favored me with an order to his servant to shew the house and grounds. The shrubberies and walks appeared neglected, but tlie Judge only resides there during two months of the year, the remainder of his time being occupied by official duties. The estate is extensive, containing ten thou- sand acres of land, but the greater part is still covered with a forest. The soil is unproduc- tive. For many years there was scarcely suffi- cient Indian corn raised to feed the slaves. i i i 1 i MOIIXT VKRNON. 217 Ik'ini;- truatod vc»;v iiidiilgciitly, tlicy iiicivascd raj)idly in numbers. Judi^u Wasliiiigton was compelled, in selt-det'enco, to sell nearly all of them, and kejit only a few who were the most failhfnl. The house is built of wood, like most com? try-houses in America, and has a large portico in front, conniianding a delightful view over the Potomac. Here the ureneral and nin(>istrate, the Fabius and Aristides of his country, was accustomed to contemplate the future destinies of America, surrounded by those valued friends whom he had often led to battle and to victory. In the interior of the house is a library, vvhich con- tains a portrait of Paul Jones, of Necker, and a bust of Vyashington. A small audience-room contains a picture of the victory of General Wolte, and another of the Fall of Montgomery. The hall contains a painting of the demolition of the Bastile, and a key of that fortress, sent to General Washington from Paris. The drawing-room has a picture of the Relief of Gibraltar. A uf ravel walk leads from the terrace to the tomb of Washington. It is a plain vault with a door in front, and covered with earth. It is surrounded by a grove of cedars; the lower branches have been stripped by visitors, as a til 21H ST. MARY S RIVKtt. memento of the place, and with somi; difficulty I procured a small relic. It has been proposed to erect, in the Capitol of the United States, a mausoleum to contain the ashes of Washington. The present tomb, without any inscription, appears an insufficient memorial of the mighty dead who reposes beneath, who led the armies of his country in war, and presided over her councils in peace. I again crossed the Potomac to Maryland, and, dismissing the barge, with a douceur to the soldiers for their trouble, I proceeded to- wards St. Mary's River, having hired a horse at a small town. On my arrival I was wel- comed by B , Esq., whose history has been rather eventful. He was in Edinburgh in 1794f, and joined the party who advocated annual parliaments and universal suffrage. As the government was energetic, and his party resolute, the collision of opinion between them was not likely to be productive of peaceful results. Finding that no alteration could be made in the constitution, he came over to America, commenced business, left the poli- tical world to regulate itself as it best might, and in the course of twenty years amassed a large fortune. With a small portion of his h ST. MARY'S RIVKK. •Jli» ' wealth lie purchased a beautiful plantation on the river St. Mary. The river is a mile wide, and abounds with a variety of fish ; the surface is sometimes covered with wild-fowl, and the bottom is paved with numerous colonies of oysters, clams, and muscles. During my stay I was feasted from morning till night. All the rivers and creeks in this part of Maryland and Virginia have the same character. The fish- cries will be hereafter described. Mr. B — in- formed me, on my noticing the quantities of wild fowl, that in some seasons they were numerous, and he had seen a space of two square miles which seemed covered with them, — it appeared a black surface. Many planters told me of the same occurrence. They erect blinds upon the shore and kill great quantities. Oysters are abundant in the creeks, and are collected with large iron rakes ; it merely requires the exer- tion necessary to take them from the bottom. Sloops are constantly employed in the winter season in carrying shell-fish to Philadelphia from the creeks in Virginia. Fish are plentiful. The consequence of this superabundance of food is, that the population on the banks of the river are indolent ; they can obtain a sub- sistance with .ittle difficulty. A great disad- vantage under which they contend, are the 2*J0 I;! I «r. .MAH\ S |{|\ KH. W I ' 1 tiriihlc livers wliicli niyv throiiuli llic <'oim- try ill autimin, and to wliicli llic iiilialMi.iiits on tilt; hanks of the rivers are peculiarly subject. The shores oi' the St. Mary's ahouud in fossil shells, and 1 had an opportunity of col- lecting as many as 1 chose. Mr. J J — placed the whole force of his plantation at niv dis- posal : negroes, hoats, canoes, carts and horses; 1 IukI only to direct what 1 wanted and it was immediately procured ; hut the astonishment of the negroes was extreme ; they could not imagine of what use these shells could he. The shore was covered with fine impressions of turritella, contained in a matrix of indurated sand. This stratum was six inches thick, and extended a great distance. In some places the loose shells were washed out by the river, and the beach was covered with them. The lower part of the cliffs was composed of a dark green marie, above a yellow loamy sand, in which were imbedded numerous fossils — most of them were imperfect ; by much care, and breaking down successive portions of the cliffs, I was able to obtain some entire specimens of serpula, area, calyptroea, and natica. The fossil shells occur in strata, varying from three inches to two feet in thickness ; they are intermixed I 1 ST. MAHV S lUVKR. •)•) 'J I with sand, vvlucli contains dark grciMi particles o( liytlratcd oxide of iron. In passing to the cliffs, wlicrc fossils vvcn^ most abundant, it was necessary to cro small creek ; fortius j)urpose I made us' . m? canoe cut out of ii single tree. It would Ci .ry four individuals, and the negroes were very skillful in paddling it along the stream. In one part of the river was a fine echo from the shore, and in passing this place the negroes were alarmed at what they called the voice out of the wood. The negroes are very suscepti- ble of cold. On a fine afternoon in March, when the sun was shining, on stepping into the canoe, I perceived that a negro had brought some lire from the house and placed it on a loose board. I could not imagine the reason, and, asking him, he said, he wished to make a fire on the beach, as it was verv cold. \Vhen we landed, he collected the loose dry wood and made a large fire. In the canoe I passed over to the opposite side of the river, where was the first settlement made in the State of Maryland by Lord Balti- more. The inhabitants are Catholics, and con- vents are established in difierent parts of the State. The scenerv in this vicinity is aurn^eable, f \\ 222 ST. MARY S RIVER. i the beauty of the river makes it a delightful residence. We received an invitation to a party at a plantation a few miles distant, and the aaddle-horses and carriages were placed in requisition. We were most cordially received. The house \vas extremely small, containing only three »ooms ; the guests were near fifty in number. I never saw so large a party in so small a house, but the hospitable spirit of the proprietor made up for all deficiencies. He had been an officer in the United States' army, and lately returned home to live on this estate, which contained five hundred acres of land. It required great skill to arrange the banquet. There was not room for all to sit down at once ; the ladies were first seated, and the gentlemen of the party had the honor to attend on them. There was a plentiful supply of chickens, wild- fowl, ham, and fish, besides sweetmeats of all kinds. The ladies having retired, and a second ample supply being placed on the table, to- gether with jugs of hot toddy and decanters of wine, we, in our turn, partook of the feast. Our banquet finished, the tables were removed, the ladies joined the party, dancing commenced, and the evening was devoted to festive enjoy- U 1 i ill ST. MARY'S RIVKR. 22ti ment. After remaining several days at the mansion of Mr. B , by whom I had been so hospitably entertained, I bid farewell to St. Mary^s, rode to the shore of Potomac, hired a sail-boat, and crossed over to Virginia. 'i\ ( '^'2i ) CHAPTER XXXI. VIRGINIA, — PECATONE. — STRATFORD. — SOMERVILLE, — BIRTH- I'LACE OF WASHINGTON. — FISHING-PARTY. — ELECTION. — FRKDERICK3DUR0H. — RAPPAHANNOC. I LANDED on a sandy beach, and proceeded to the house of Major , at Pecatone, on the shore of Potomac, which is here eight miles wide. In spring, shoals of herrings frequent this river, and shad, rock-fish, and sturgeon abound. The bays and inlets are frequented by flocks of wild ducks, geese, and swans ; the last are of a dark color, and not so beautiful as the swan of Europe. The land near the river is fertile, and pro- duces tobacco. The presses and drying-sheds are appendages to every plantation. Some new land had been latelv cleared ; the trees are considered as weeds, they are cut down, piled in heaps, and set on fire. The hardest work the negroes perform is clearing the land for a crop of tobacco, cutting down the trees, dig- ging up the roots, and ploughing the ground. ,1 I: PECATONK. 22/> as iled ork I Tliis part of" Virginia was exposed to inva- sion during the Jate war from the squadron commanded by Admiral Cockburn. He is much disliked in this State, on account of the numerous expeditions he fitted out, by which individuals were injured, their houses burnt, and their property destroyed. Pecatone was attacked by a frigate, and one hundred cannon- shot fired at the house; but the river is sliallow a mile from the shore, and there is only one intricate channel by which boats could ap- proach, so that a party could not land to de- stroy the house. Admiral Hardy, who commanded a squadron on the north-east coast, was approved, because he did not plunder or annoy the inhabitants. Major T. related a pleasing anecdote of this officer. A man-ot-war captured an American merchant vessel, and the captain was sent on board the Admiral's ship. Wishing to release him as soon as possible. Admiral Hardy offer- ed to put him on shore where he was cruizing; the -American captain said, he was three hun- dred miles from home, and all his property was seized. The Admiral opened a drawer full of guineas, and desired him to take what- ever sum he chose. I spent an agreeable day at Pecatone, and Q .n "',1 I ii' I •22« STRATFORD.— SOMERVII.LE. I. ' tlien proceeded on ; y tour. Major fur- nished me with horses and with a negro ser- vant for a guide. I now directed my course to Stratford, the seat of Major Somerville. The greater part of the distance was through woods ; we saw the ruins of houses, which had been burnt by parties from the British fleet, and the plantations were consequently deso- late. In Virginia they have preserved the Indian names to the rivers and bays; many of them are sonorous and beautiful, others are singular ; this day 1 crossed Yeocomico Creek, rmd the tow n of Tappahannoc was a short dis- tance to the south. The negro, my guide, had a strange idea of kings ; he supposed they wore crowns that they might be victorious over their enemies in war. It seemed to confirm his opinion, that little resistance was offered in this part of the country to the incursions of the English. The boats' crews suddenly landed ; the plantations were much scattered, and the militia could not assemble in sufficient force to repel the in- vaders. At Stratford I was received by Major So- merville with much kindness. He had travel- led in England, had been received with hospi- tality, and it seemed to gratify him to return SOMKRVILLE. 22V to a native of that country the kindness which he had experienced. Stratford House was formerly the residence of the Governors of Virginia. It consists of a central building and two win^s. The estate contained four thou- sand acres of land, and Major Somerville intended to lay out a park near the house in the English style. The ground afforded every variety of hill, valley, forest, and underwood. Potomac is the boundary on the north, and forms an ex- tensive bay. The river supplied fish and wild- fowl — the farm-yard furnished all kinds of poultry — a well stocked cellar produced a va- riety of wines — the library contained an excel- lent collection of English, French, and Italian books. I was now initiated into the life of a Virginia planter; before dinner glasses of toddy are handed round; this is made of rum, hot water, sugar, v/ine, and spices. We rode over the plantation, we walked on the sandy beach, we dined, we conversed on the glory of En- gland, the rising liberties of Germany, the in- creasing power of America. Major Somerville was a strenuous advocate for liberty ; yet he had one hundred slaves on his plantation. I mentioned this circumstance; but he said, they were much happier under his care than if they . \ 4 I'i i , V X •> ;ii IIAPPAHANXOC— SOMKRV II.I.K. river llappaliamioc. On tlic tbllowini;- nioni- iiijj:, acconipaninl hy .Major Soimrvillc, I wont to sec the rapids, distant one mile from the town. A range ot f^noiss, containing veins of granite, crosses the river, and t\\v stream tbrces its way by a tlioiisand meandering channels. It presents an agreeable scene ; it was a line morning in spring. Extensive mills are erect- ed on the opposite side of the river. Fredericksburgh is a place ot" great trade ; tobacco, wheat, and flour are exported, and the planters resort there to purchase supplies of clothing, and other articles, for domestic con- sumption. Here I parted with Major Somerville ; I at- terwards saw him at Philadelphia, and corre- sponded with him until his departure from America. Sent by his country on a mission to one of the courts of Europe, he was taken ill in France, and died regretted by all who knew him. To the accomplishments of a gen- tleman, he added the attainments of a scholar, and his disposition was amiable. He reposes beneath the soil of La Grange, in France, the favorite asylum of liberty which he loved so well. • !i so CHAPTER XXXH. TREATMENT OF SLAVES. — FIELD NERROES. — CAVERNS. The allowance to the slaves in Virginia and Maryland is usually one bushel of Indian corn meal per month, and thirty or sixty salt her- rings, or eic^ht pounds of smokeil meat. The slaves are fond of Indian corn, and if by any accident there is a scarcity, and they receive wheat flour, it almost causes an insurrection, and they are much dissatisfied. It does not agree with them so well as the Indian corn meal. The process of preparing it for food is very simple ; I went into some of the huts and saw it done. They mix the meal with water, and make it into cakes ; the ashes are swept off the hearth, and the cakes laid in rows upon it ; they are then covered with the hot ashes, and are soon baked. They are called ash-cakes. These with water form their breakfast — with the ad- dition of a fish, or a small piece of meat, their dinner. The muscular strength of the blacks is not so great as that of the whites, or they do I ^■'i I ^ \ jhi "I ' II •> 2:ni TRKATMKNT OK SLAVKS. not choose to exert it ; they take caie to do as little work as possible. But they appear hearty and robust, and are less subject to disease, to which the simplicity of their diet may probably contribute. The slaves on an average do one-third the v^ork of a free man. 1 was informed by a gentleman who resided near Baltimore, that he wished to have a larue tract of land cleared of wood, and, besides em- j)ioying his own negroes, hired a number of white men, who were employed at the same time. The free men cut down and piled twelve cords of w jod a week ; the negroes cut down and piled, in the same time, five cords, although they worked harder than was usual for them. The negro huts are built of logs, and the interstices stopped with mud, of which material also the floor is composed. At one end is an enormous large chimney made of logs, which are of a large size at the bottom, and gradually smaller towards the top. The lower part of the chimney, in the interior, is covered with earth or mud, to prevent its catching fire. The negroes keep up large fires at night, even in the summer season. I asked a negro the reason of this custom, he replied, " Massa, fire is our blanket. It keeps us warm. >j TREATMENT OF SLAVES. 28: The qiiintity of wood consumed in their huts is v^ry great, and when they go to the fields late in autumn or early in spring, they make large fires near the place where they work. Unmarried negroes sleep on planks or on the floor. Those who are married generally choose their wives on a distant plantation, because it gives them an excuse for being out at night. On these occasions they generally break open the stables, take the horses to ride, and return home -arly in the mcrning. The poor horses suffer, as they are made to work day and night. A planter infoimed me it was good policy to employ oxen on a plantation, because the slaves could not ride them on these excursions. Almost every night parties take place among the slaves on the plantations ; they assemble from a great distance, and have a number of amusements. These vary in different States : the slaves follow the example set by their mas- ters. In Maryland d^incing is fashionable ; the slaves frequently dance all night. In Virginia musical parties are more frequent ; every negro is a musician from his birth. A black boy will make an excellent fiddle out of a gourd and some string. In autumn they play tunes on the dried stalks of Indian corn, when it is still standing in the field. Ry striking it 238 FIRI.D NEGRO RS near the ground or at the top, they make it discourse most exellent music. The bandjo is another instrument they are fond of, but the supreme ambition of every negro is to procure a real violin. By saving the few pence which are given them, selling civ kens, and robbing a little, if necessary, they generaMy contrive to make up the sum. An instrument of music seems necessary to their existence. The field negroes, who work on the planta- tions, are allowed two suits of clothes a year ; one suit in May for the summer, and one in November for the winter. On many planta- tions they work from sunrise to sunset, with the exception of two hours in the middle of the day. The house servants are better off in every respect, their food is of superior quality, and more clothing is allowed them ; besides, their labor is light in comparison with the others'. I was surprised to find that the negro women were employed in field labor ; only one or two are allowed to stay at home to cook the ash- cakes ; the others hoe the corn and do almost all kinds of labor. The young blacks are in general very fat and happy ; they have nothing to do, except to wait as play-fellows on the white children, who play : FIELD NROROKS. 230 a thousand antics with them ; but the young negroes are as much amused as their masters. At a planter's house 1 saw two young children at dinner-time, sitting by the side of the fire, with three young blacks to wait on each. One negro lield the plate, another the glass of water, and the third was employed at looking at the other two. Having so many to wait on them the white children are very much indulged. Many negroes keep pigs and feed a number of fowls : the sale of these enables them to pur- chase a little better clothing for Sundays. In the vicinity of a town I wished to send a negro on an errand, and asked him to go im- mediately ; he i3aid, it was quite impossible, he must change h:s dress or his friends would not know him. Insurrections are not frequent, but instances have occurred where overseers or planters who had been severe, had been mur- dered by the slaves ; but a dreadful punishment awaits the criminal, and they are seldom known to escape. During the holidays, when the slaves resort to the large towns, there is some apprehension of their rising, and the militia are assembled. None of the slaves are allowed to sleep in the planter's house ; the house ser- vants live in detached dwellings sufficiently near to be within call. K!' h 2H) FIRM) NKORORS. ^1 llW f! The condition of slaves, in the southern States of America, appears to be better than in the West-India islands. They increase very rapidly, and this circumstance is a proof of their general good treatment. There are ex- ceptions, and of these I heard some instances ; but public opinion prevents individuals from proceeding to great severities. The whip is employed to make them labor ; I was told it was necessary, but saw no instance of its being employed. Before I visited the southern States, I sup- posed that all the planters were in favor of the system of slavery, but 1 did not meet with a single individual who did not regret having this species of property, and shew a wish to remedy it, if there was any possible mode by which it could be accomplished. A lady, the wife of a rich planter, asked me if I had ever been in a country where there were no slaves. I replied, they allowed none to reside in England. The lady answered emphatically, " That is a happy country." When the planters are obliged to part with their slaves, care is taken that families shall not be separated ; thus the evil is lessened as much as possible. Slaves are an article of traffic, and vary il \ t AVRRNS. 241 i ill price according to the rise and fall of to- hacco, rice, cotton, and sugar, which are the articles cultivated in the southern States. A male negro is worth from four to eight hundred dollars, and more in proportion if he has learned a trade. A slave-dealer is considered the lowest and most degrading occupation, and none will engage in it unless they have no other means of support. 1 have been sometimes amusod by the ques- tions that were asked by a planter, when he met a negro belonging to another plantation. " Who do you belong to ? " " Where are you going?" and it generally concluded with, " Re- member me to your master." By this mode of examination, the negroes have little chance of escape. In the county of Albemarle, two ne- groes belonging to a severe master ran away, and dug a cave in a forest, the entrance to which they concealed with bushes. At night they sallied out, and were supplied with pro- visions by the neighboring slaves, who were accustomed to make the cave a place of ren- dezvous. They lived very happy for six months ; but, making a fire in the day-time, they were discovered by the ^moke, and appre- hended. They made their escape a second time, and were not recaptured ; the other u I > m I W hi 'i I 242 S!,AVKS, planters were glad, because tliey liad Ixeu harshly treated. Sometimes they succeed in leaving their masters, and travel towards Pennsylvania, where they are sate from pursuit. They tra- vel by night, and the greatest difficulty they have to encounter is in crossing the rivers; strict watch is kept at the bridges and ferries ; a negro is not allowed to cross without shewing his pass. Free negroes are generally settled along the margin of the rivers for the conveni- ence of fishing ; they dwell in log huts, and conceal the slaves until they have an opportu- nity of passing over in the night. Let the stranger, when travelling in the southern States of America, always take care to have a supply of silver change. The negro slaves know the value of money better than any other class of people, and receive it with the greatest thankfulness in return for any tri- offices which they may ha »g perf( A ray of gladness infused into the heart of a slave is a rich tribute paid to humanity. i ( 243 ) CHAPTER XXXlll. MONTPEHER. — MADISON. a I HAD letters of introduction from a friend at Washington to the Ex-President, Mr. Ma- dison, who resides at Montpelier, four miles from Orange-court House. When 1 arrived, the valet informed me that Mr. Madison was riding out on the plantation, but was expected home very soon. I was ushered into the drawing-room. In the course of half an hour Mr. Madison arrived, welcomed me to his house, and in a short time I found myself per- fectly at home. Montpelier is in the centre of a large planta- tion, containing nearly six thousand acres of land. Clumps of trees are left in various parts, and it has a great resemblance to an English nobleman's mansion. In front of the house is a fine view of the Blue Mountains. They are at a distance of twenty miles; but, from the clearness of the atmosphere, every inequality of ground can be distinctly seen ; and on a R 2 'IK. i \l ' '-Ml MADISOX. If I'll ; t'i I bright sunny day, tlu- liglits and shadows on the mountain-side have a very picturesque effect. • The drawing-room contains portraits of all the Presidents of the United States, and I saw flies of the Globe and Traveller, and Morning Chronicle. Mr. Madison said, a friend sent thttii regularly from England. There was also • fine collection of the Napoleon medals, with :he V t'fories of the Revolution. In the rear of the house is a well-cultivated garden, and a fine orchard. On the following day, it rained without in- termission ; but the time was passed in con- versation, and I had so many questions to ask, and Mr. Madison conversed with such animation, that the time flew with rapidity. After a splendid dinner, a variety of wines were placed on the table, and the servants withdrew. The Ex-President said very calm- ly, that in an afternoon, it was Sunday, he could not have the servants to wait on him, as they made it a holiday. There was a plenti- ful supply of wood near, so that it was easy to renew the fire, when for a few moments it ceased to emit a blaze of sparkling light. The Ex-President said, " In the late wars of Europe, the English and French seemed to !i MADISON. 1.) capUin.' tliL' Anicricaii vc'St.els troiii a spirit ol' rivalry to each other. We were apprehensive that, vvhiehever nation we cleelared war against first, the other nation would also commence hostilities, lest they should not get their usual share of prizes. "It was singular that Lord Castlereagh sent dispatches, stating it to be impossible to repeal the orders in council. In a short time dis- patches arrived with intelligence that they were repealed! It was too 'ate; hostilities had commenced. "There were many points iboiit the charac- ter of General Ross that were praiseworthy ; but Admiral Cockburn was uiivvorthy of com- mand ; he plundered the country, and sent home dispatches on the most trivial affairs. " The memoirs of O'Meara and Les Casas have contributed much to enlighten the public mind on the character of Bonaparte. My opinion is quite altered respecting him. Con- sidering the elevation to which he rose, he seems to have committed fewer crimes than other men in his situation would have done. If Bonaparte had died on the field of Waterloo, the world would have been quite ignorant of his character. '' In the fust Congress, no one ever dreamt ill 1 ![]!■. 1 tl i 1, " i 24(i MADISON. of making long speeches: it was a meeting ot" business, and the orators soon foimcl it was not the place to (hstinguish thenjselves. Patrick Jlcnry went tliere, but soon returned. The power of Henry as a speaker was unrivalled ; he knew the temper of every man in the Assembly of Virginia, and seemed to have complete mastery over their passions. " Any distinction between different sects of Christians is absurd. It was necessary to take away the glebe-lands from the clergy in Virginia, to place them on an equality with other denominations. Formerly there was a law that, if a Quaker landed in Virginia, he should be imprisoned ; if he returned the third time, he should be put to death. " Codification is of little use. If you make a code of laws, you must use words ; these have different meanings: whole volumes have been written on the nature of proof, and so on, ad infinitum. Napoleon, in his code, adopted the maritime law of Louis XIV., that the commentary might be taken with it. " When Dr. Priestley came to America, we expected to see in his personal appearance something of a fiery disputant ; and were much surprised to see a harmless, inoffensive man, who seemed the picture of benevolence. MADISOX. '-•17 '' TIk; English t;liimi;t! tluir charge (raHaiivs too oltcM at Wasliiiii;ton : l)y ihu time iUv.y lu'coiUL' at'customctl to the mode of transacting Imsiness they are recalled. '* I asked the Kx-President what were his sen- sations on retiring to the calm and (juiet ot domestic lite, after filling the honorable station of Chief of ten millions of people, lie replied, " that any person who had been President tor eight years would be glad to retire ; the oliicu was very arduous as well as honorable.'* On the following morning, the weather being fine, Mr. Madison proposed a ride over the plantation, to which 1 immediately assent- ed ; the horses were saddled, and we proceeded on our tour. Mr. Madison had been at great pains to preserve some fine trees on his estate, and we rode some distance in the woods that \ might see and admire them. The chestnut trees are very large, but difficult to preserve, if a swarm of bees have lodged, or an opossum has taken refuge in oire of them, the hunters have no scruple in cutting down the largest tree. We saw one, three feet in diameter, which had been cut down a few nights pre- vious, to capture an opossum which had taken refuge among the branches. In some fields I observed young sassafras trees growing. Mr. 11 \:\ U.I u« MA I) I SOX. It Madison said, the only way of ^^ettini; rid of them was by turning in the cattle, vvlio were fond of eating the buds. The Kx- President observed, that the common wild-flowers had certain periods during which they flourished, and then a new race appeared ; formerly his plantation had been covered with the blue centaurea ; the fields were now ornamented with the verbascum thapsis, or mullein. The negroes were employed in clearing new ground for a crop of tobacco, cutting down the trees, and making a rail fence. The largest trees were left standing, with the bark cut round near the bottom ; the trees gradually perish, and are blown down by the wind. There was more independence of manner about the negroes, when conversing with their master, than 1 expected. One of them was unwell, and he made known his complaints to Massa with great confidence of having a favor- able hearing. The Ex-President sent him to the house to get some medicine. In England, Mr. Madison is chiefly known by having declared war against that country ; in America he ranks as the ablest writer that continent has produced, and one whose political services are of the highest order. Well might an American writer say, " We had Madison, I' r MADISOX. 2IJ) whose oncr(> ) CHAPTER XXXI V. MONTICELLO. — JEFFERSON. ':• t The Ex-President accompanied me two miles on my route, and I now directed my course to Monticello, the seat of Mr. Jeffer- son. I came lo the banks of the Rivanna, and passed over in a boat to the opposite shore. Advancing towards the mansion, I was struck with the appearance of the negro huts ; which, as in all A^irginia estates, are placed at a small distance from the residence of the proprietor. The ravines on the side of the hill were covered by the Ulex Europaeus, or prickly gorse, which Mr. Jefi'erson had been at the trouble of importing from England. I recog- nized it as an old acquaintance. By its dark green leaves and bright yellow flowers, it con- cealed the ravages which the torrents had made. Monticello is situated upon one of the south-west mountains, and commands an extensive view. From the lofty mountain- JKFFERSOX. 2.-) I toj), yoii sec the Rivamm pursuing its pcaco- tul, meandering course, and again concealed from view by the trees which overshadow its bank. At the distance of a few miles, it nearly encircles the tumuli of some ancient Indian chieftains — the immense forests — the cultivated plains — the Blue Mountains which bound the horizon — Charlotteville — the uni- versity reared under the auspices of Mr. .Jef- ferson. In the centre of the house is a hall, adorned with a museum, containing the bones of a mastodon, a collection of fossil shells, Indian trophies, and various curiosities. The draw- ing-room is an octagon, and has glass folding- doors, which lead on one side into the hall, on the other to the garden and shrubberies. The walls are covered with paintings. I was delight- ed to see the pictures of Locke, Bacon, New- ton ; of the discoverers of America — Columbus, Americus, Cabot, and Sir Walter Ualeigh ; also portraits of the Presidents of the United States. Besides these, there were several paintings of the Flemish and Italian schools. I was shewn by the servant into the draw- ing-room, and waited with some anxiety for the moment when I should see Mr. Jefferson. In a few minutes he came, welcomed me to f M \ 1 •iiVJ .IKFKKK^OX ,!> 'H Monticello, and bci^an to coiiviTsv.' with as much ease as it' we had been acquainted tor years. Mr. Jefferson was at this time nearly eighty years of age, tall, slender, and stooped very slightly ; he retained all the vivacity of a much younger period of life. The pictures of Mr. Jeffer.3on as President do not give a cor- rect idea of his countenance. The profile by Stuart, and the likeness by Colonel Trumbull in the picture of the Signing of the Declaration of Independence, are the most correct. It would be impossible to paint the genius and fire which appeared in the expression of his eyes. Mr. Jefferson's favorite topic of conversation was the University ; on my expressing a wish to see it, Mr. Jefferson said he would give me a distant view of it. lie led the way to a ter- race in the garden, and i)ointed out the build- ings, which made a prominent figure in the landscape. But at this time I scarce paid any attention to the scene at a distance, I was so engaged in listening to every word Mr. Jefferson spoke, and watching the expression of his coun- tenance. I was standing by the side of the philosopher and siatesman, whose name is for ever enrolled in the page of his country's his- lorv ; who had written and signed the Deelara- JKFFKRSOX. 2.'>3 tioii of Inclept'iidence of tlio United States of North America. I was conversing with an individual upon whom his country had con- I'erred all the honors she had to bestow. Mr. Jefferson had been successively Representative, Senator, and Governor of Virginia; Ambassa- dor to France ; Secretary of State ; Vice-Presi- dent, and President of the United States ; the friend of Washington, of La Fayette, and the heroes who achieved the liberty of America. On returning to the drawing-room, we had a conversation which continued three hours, and the following were some of the sentiments Mr. .lefferson expressed : — " Bonaparte was a man of great talents, but totally without principle, except that of sell- aggrandisement. When in France, I traced every lar^e river from its mouth to its source ; I was thus certain of seeing the most fertile land. I was on foot, and visited the farms to see the agriculture of the country : the farmers were very civil, and ariswtred my questions with great readiness. The la'Kuers in France consume very little animal food. " I walked along the canal of Languedoc, having hired a boat to carry my baggage. I experienced no '^•^Hculty except at the taverns, which were geneiuiiy filhid with a low descrip- liltl f \ i 2-)l .lEFFRRSON. 'X t' i tioii of persons. In England i ohtanvd y 'ist of the principal gardens within one hundred miles of London, and made a tour to visit them. 1 called at many farm-houses, but the farmers were not so conversable as those in France. "At Nismes, 1 spent several hours a day, for three weeks, examining the Temple, and sent the plan to Virginia ; the State House at Richmond is built after this model. " I was acquainted with Condorcet, Mira- beau, and several members of the National Con- vention. I often dined with the Count de Buflfon, who talked without ceasing, hnt with great eloquence, on subjects connected with natural history. "I played with Dr. Franklin at chess, and was equal to him at the game. "Kosciusko came to America in 1798, to arrange some ao'rounts with Congress. He kept his room .' r nionths, and gave as a reason, that the Empress of Russia would have him assassinated if she knew where he was. "The old Virginian Assembly was the most dignified body of men ever assembled to legis- late. " Henry spoke wonderfully — call it oratory or what you please, but I never heard any JKl'FKRSON. tiling !ik(* it. Ho had more coramiMid over tiic ppssioiis than any man 1 ever knew ; i heard all the celebrated orators of the National Assembly of France, but there was none equal to Patrick Henry. It was his profound know- ledge of human nature, and his manner of speaking, more than the matter of his orations. After listening with the utmost attention, I sometimes endeavoured to recollect what he had been saying, but never could succeed. " The negroes are better fed than the agri- cultural laborers on the coiitinent of Europe. They appear to be a ditierent race of people to the whites. Any planter who treated his negroes cruelly would be shunned by his neighbors. The plan of sending the negroes to Africa will not succeed ; they should go to St. Domingo ; they would be gladly re- ceived, and they might all be exported. " The black children should be set free the moment they are born. A black c.iild "s worth five pounds sterling, and there is no planter but would give that sum to get rid or the nuisance. The children should be kept by their parents till they were ten years of age, and then sent off. " Some members of the old Congress op- posed the separation from Great Britain in th< ii',! ill ii'!^ i 11 ^■'r4 ]m ijf**" /-J •>; '-'')() JKKKEKSON. ;it It ' I'ii most strenuous manner ; but when it was passed, tliey supported the measure with una- nimity. " Rhode Island is the smallest but boldest State in the Union. She sometimes opposes all the other States, without regarding the size of her territory. "Franklin never spoke in Congress more than five miimtes at a time ; then he related some anecdote which applied to the subject before the House. "The States are sovereign for domestic pur- poses, they are allied for foreign relations. " Nature makes men Whigs or Tories, Federalists or Democrats. Those who are strong and fearless by nature are never afraid of their fellow-men, and take the side of the people. Those who have weak constitutions are always nervous and timid, and advocate the cause of i^overnment. " No one can have any idea of the strength of party feel'ng, unless they had seen Ame- rica in 1798. " We are various by station, but equally men. j> Mr. Jefferson informed me, he had invited several neighbors to dine with him ; the guests urrived, and dinner was announced. ISIr. Jef- JKFFKRSON. 251 fersoii ltd the way and placed himself at one side of the table, and we were invited to sit down without any formality. Mr. Jefferson said, that when he was President, he had a con- test about punctilio with an ambassador from Europe, He detested ceremony, and when they came to the usual entertainments, he never took the trouble to ascertain whether France, England, Holland, or Spain, had the seat of honor. One envoy 'vould not visit him, because he had not his proper seat. Mr. Jefferson sent a message inviting him as a gen- tleman and a friend, but even this language could not soften the obduracy of his etiquette. 1 was introduced to Governor Randolph and his lady, and their family. Mrs. Randolph was daughter to Mr. Jefferson. On the following day, Mr. and Mrs. Madi- son were expected on a visit for a week, and their arrival spread universal joy. 1 had the pleasure of witnessing the interview between the two Ex-Presidents, who had been friends for half a century. It was the most interesting evening 1 ever passed ; I was in company with two of the most celebrated men of America. Charlotteville University is one mile from a town of the same name, and has been founded and endowed by the 3gi irgn ^ t 258 JKFFKRJJON. The State have granted large sums of money for the support of professors, and it has now two hundred students. The buildings were just completed : it is built on an advantageous site. On the following morning I prepared to de- part. Mrv Jefferson urged me to stay, but as I had already passed two days at INlonticello, I thought it would be trespassing on hospitality; I therefore took leave, and proceedetl towards Richmond. ( iv>y ) CHAPTER XXXV. Is VALLEY OF SHENANDOAH. — niVOUAC. — COAL MINES. — PSEVDO VOLCANOES. — CANALS. — RAPIDS. For some distance the road passes alon^ the banks of Rivanna, which is adorned with some fine trees. Shenandoah valley, west of Monticello, is very fertile and well cultivated. It is a con- tinuation of the limestone valley which passes through PcMinsylvania. On one side bounded by the Alleghanies; on the other by the Blue Mountains. The Potomac forms its boundary to the north, the .lames and Oconoke rivers to the south. Nature has bestowed a good soil, a fine climate, and most charming scenery. The classical Shenandoah winds along the centre of the valley, and innumerable rivulets water every farm. These streams sometimes disappear in fissures of the limestone, rise again at a little distance and join the river. This happy valley is divided into farms ol two or s 2 200 BIVOUAC. :>'^ V h r ' ' if throe liuiidivd acres, < ultivated l»y proprietors of the soil. Towns are interspersed at short distances, and the celebrated rock-bridge, de- scribed by JNIr. Jefferson, is situated in tliis valley. Many caverns extend some distance und r- gronnd, and are adorned with stalactites of a large size ; when visiting the interior of these caves, the traveller may view, by the light ol' his torch, in the grotesque figures by which he is surrounded, almost any object his imagina- tion chooses to picture forth. Near the first inn where 1 stopped for the night, I perceived a bivouac of waggoners, who convey the produce of the country to the mar- kets near the coast. The waggons are strong, carry three tons, have narrow wheels, and are drawn by four horses. The drivers are usually farmers' sons, who accompany the waggons to sell the produce. They are at little expense on the road ; they take with them coffee, sugar, meat, and bread, and corn for the horses, or they purchase the latter from farmers near the road. They set out early in the morning and proceed till ten o'clock, when they stop in a shady wood, near a spring of water. The horses are taken out by one of the party, whilst another makes a fire, and prepares the i lOAl- MINKS. 2<{1 hrcakt'ast. In an lionr the niual is finished, the fire extinguished, and the horses ap^ain liar- nessed to the wagpfon ; they proceed on till niuht, when thev take another hearty meal. It the weather is fine, they .sleep in the open air; if it rains, the waggon affords them shel- ter. They generally travel in company, and as some of the waggons are loaded with whis- key, a scene of merriment takes place at night. Thev travel thirty miles a day, and thousands of waggons visit every year the markets of Phi- ladelphia, Baltimore, Richmond, and other cities near the Atlantic coast. The intended canals to the interior will diminish, or put a stop to, this mode of transportation. The coal mines of V^irginia are twelve miles west of Richmond. They afford bituminous coal, and are similar to the independent coal formations of England. The basin on which they repose is of sandstone, resting on granite, forty miles long from north to south, and five to seven miles wide. There are various strata of coal, four, six, eight feet in thickness, alter- nating with the usual series of sandstone, clay porphyry, shale, and indurated clay. Some of these contain impressions of ferns, palms, reeds, and plants jf the torrid zone. Six hundred thousand bushels of coal have been raised at I. ': i ^ji IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / A O .4. (A 1.0 I.I 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 III ''^ ^ 6" — ► V] <^ /a ^^i /: °>^ ;v w Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 't 7i 5 2()2 PSRUDO VOLCANOES. !'■ *l I f cl- one mine in a year, and shipped to various parts of the United States. The quantity will now be diminished in consequence of the intro- duction of the Pennsylvania anthracites. Some pits are three hundred feet deep, and are drain- ed by steam-engines. A coal mine in the county of Powhatan has been on fire more than twenty years. 1 in- tended to view it, but was prevented by the lateness of the hour, and was obliged to be content with the sight of one on the north side of James River. I had seen the pseudo volca- noes of Derbyshire, Staffordshire, and Worces- tershire. From the towers of Dudley Castle I could distinguish houses that were built over the fiery abyss, their wells supplied with hot water, and their cellars full of smoke. I now began to examine how far the pseudo volcanoes of Virginia produced a similar result. The same substances were here visible ; the burnt clay, porcelain jasper, and polishing slate of Virginia, are similar to those of Europe. But the fire had not extended a great distance ; it was almost extinguished, and merely gave some signs of existence by a few dim wreaths of smoke. A company was chartered by the State Legislature to improve the navigation of James River, and by their exertions the I-: -il! CANANS. — llAlMDb. *> m impctliments had been removed to a great extent. The State had recently purchased their interest, and were now imitating the example of New York ; they had commenced a canal to bring the produce of Kentucky and the western States to the ports of Virginia. The obstacles which the mountains present are foimidable, but the sources of the James and Kenhawa rivers nearly join. Negroes were employed on sections of the canal ; they were hired by contractors who paid six, eight, ten dollars a month for their services, according to their strength and capacity, besides supply- ing them with provisions. The boats used on the James River convey eight tons of merchandise, varying according to the state of the river. Tobacco is the produce usually carried, and the boatmen have a peculiar language to denote the height of the water. If the river is very full, they say it contains ten hogsheads, when low, but six. The rapids of James River present magni- ficent scenery ; they commence at Richmond and extend five miles above the city. The river is impeded in its course by large rocks ; some are rounded by the action of the water, others retain their angular projections. Both ■i h I 264 RAPIDS. n sides of the river, and some islands near the centre of the channel, are covered with a profusion of forest trees, and tlie whole scene is as wild and beautiful as when first the Indian gazed on the rocky stream. k r:' f^i •Mi 1^' II ^ I \ he a ne he ( 2()r) ) CHAPTER XXXVI. RICHMOND. — HON. JUDGE MARSHALL. — JAMES RIVER. — WILLIAMSBUROH COLLEGE. — FLOWERS. — YORK TOWN. — REUOUDTS. — CAVE. — SHELL ROCK. — NORFOLK. "j III Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is a place of great trade ; the productions of a large tract of country are shipped to foreign ports. The houses in the lower part of the town, where business is transacted, are built very close together. Upon the hill is a fine open square, where the State House is situated, and a number of villas, surrounded by gardens and shrubberies. In one of these resides the Hon. Chief Judge Marshall, of the Supreme Court of the United States. He had requested that } would call upon him. I was happy to see a veteran of Jhe Revolution, the friend of Wash- ington. Judge Marshall is eighty years of age, but has few infirmities of that advanced period of lite. He invited me to dine with him at three o'clock ; on goinu to his house at that time, I i H'4 2()() .JUDOR MARSHALL. — JAMES RIVRR. t'i! '■ 4 was introduced to several gentlemen residing in Richmond, most of vvliom were members of the bar. At dinner, I had the pleasure of sitting next to the Chief Judge of the United States, and he conversed with much affabihtv. After dinner, Judge Marshall related to us the impression which had been made on his mind by the various orators to whom, during the course of his life, it had been his fortune to listen. Patrick Henry, Pinckney, Fisher Ames, Wirt, Webster, Clay, and many others, were passed in review, and their merits appre- ciated. Anecdotes of the olden time were related, and our venerable host became quite animated. It was the most delightful dinner- party at which I have been present in Ame- rica. On the following morning I pursued my journey towards the Atlantic shore. I was hospitably entertained by ■ , Esq., Senator of Virginia, who resides near James River. His estate contains extensive strata of fossil shells, but most of them are broken and imperfect. They are dug up in large quanti- ties, and, after exposure to the weather, some pertiect shells may be collected. Quantities of fish are caught in the James River, and the planters who own large estates \' JAMES UIVKll. — FISFIINO. 'J()7 on tlie river rent out the privilege of fishing- on the shore. The sum which is paid varies from two hundred to one thousand dollars a year. Great numbers of the v iltur aura, or Turkey buzzard, attend to feast on the refuse of the fish, and, not being molested, become very bold. We took a ride on the beach, and ob- served one of them making a hearty meal on a fish ; he allowed us to come close to him before he lazily took to flight. I passed a day at 's, who owns several plantations, and a thousand slaves. He has sometimes met his own negroes at a distance from home, and, inquiring to whom they belong, finds with surprise they were his own. A few miles from this plantation, I saw a new method practised to catch fish. A mill is situated on a stream, which flows into James River. In spring, the fish ascend the stream until they arrive at the water-wheel, which stops their progress. The mill is stopped twice a day, and a board full of holes is placed at some distance below, which allows the water to run oflf until it is only a foot deep. The fish are then seen swimming with their backs above the surface of the water. Men and children now rushed into the water with a m i,il m r 268 \VII,MAiMsnUROII C0F,LK(1K. hirge Newibundland dog to assist. He; was the most active of the party : in a few minutes he brought out and laid on the grass nine largo fish, and plunged into the stream for more. In a quarter of an hour there were caught more than eighty fine shad, weighing four or five pounds each. I remained a day at Cobham, the capital of Surrey County, Virginia ; but this town is very unlike its namesake in England. A iew wooden houses unpainted, and many of them going to decay, form the whole settlement. It is on the bank of a creek in which are a num- ber of turtles. I crossed James River at the ferry, and pur- sued my journey to Williamsburgh, the an- cient capital of Virginia, the seat of William and Mary's College, and formerly the resi- dence of the Governor of the State. This was the scene of much splendor when the Legisla- ture met, and the opulent families of the State made it a place of fashionable resort, where they vied with each other in display. The legislative hall, where Patrick Henry delivered his orations, is partly pulled down, and the remaining windows closed. Williams- burgh has declined from its former prosperity since the seat of government has been removed WILLIAMSBUROH. •Jti'J t to Kiclimoncl. William and JNIary's College is a fine building, and lias a statue of the King in the court-yard. The number of students has lately declined, in consequence of the es- tablishment of Charlotteville University. I called on one of the Professors to obtain a view of the College; but from the dilapidation of the building, or some other cause, I could not gain a view of the interior. The best inn of the city has a sign of Sir Walter Raleigh, and under his auspices 1 ex- pected to be well entertained; but I found it quite the reverse. At this inn were drawn up the first resolutions which advocated a separa- tion of the Colonies from Great Britain. Many plantations in the lower part of Vir- ginia have been exhausted by the cultivation of tobacco. It is more thinly inhabited than any other part of the State. I saw growing in the woods, in the vicinity of Williamsburgh, the lupinus perennis, or pe- rennial lupine ; they reminded me of days that were passed, for they were the first flowers 1 cultivated when at school. It would have been wrong to have gathered these flowers, and I left them to flourish in their native wilds, growing beneath the friendly shade of the paw- paw and magnolia, with the cedar, the fir, and '; ! I 270 YORK TOWN. — RKDOUBTS. the white pine, standing as sentinels aronnd. I had seen the forts ol' Boston, where the war for the independence of America commenced ! 1 now viewed the fields of York Town, where they terminated ! The fortifications erected by the British army were not connected by intrenchnients, and when the fire of the redoubts was silenced, there was nothing to prevent an enemy's marching into the centre of the town. Two redoubts on the east, were separated by a deep ravine from the other field-works, and could not be reinforced when attacked by the Ame- ricans, commanded by La Fayette, and the French, commanded by Baron le Viosmenil. Some slight vestiges of these two redoubts still remain ; one, on the extreme left, has suf- fered by the encroachments of the river ; the ramparts of the other are scarcely visible. Both these, which were the scene of battle and carnage, are now peaceful and quiet ; the green grass is growing in the interior, and the groves around are full of birds. Some redoubts in front of the town are entire, but others are nearly destroyed. At the moment I was looking at them, a farmer was driving his plough over the parapet, and his servant was planting Indian corn ! 1 told RKDOUnTS. — CAVK. 271 hi in tliat his countrymen had t'ornicrly won a victory on this spot, and these were monu- ments of their glory. Ife scarcely made any answer ; his mind was totally engaged in cal- culating the number of ears of corn the ground would produce. The first and second parallels of the Ame- rican army may be partially distinguished, but they have been in most places levelled. Four poplars mark the field of victory, where the army of England laid down their arms. An old negress shews a subterranean apart- ment cut out of the rock near the shore, which she dignifies with the title of Cornwallis's cave, and says it was the head-quarters of the Gene- ral during the siege. On inquiry, I found that it was a store-house for wine, belonging to the commissariat department, being considered safe from the reach of the enemies' guns. The head-quarters of Lord Corn wal lis were in a house in the town ; he shared, equally with his gallant troops, the dangers of the conflict. Opposite the town, is Gloucester Point, where part of the British army was encamped, and to which, at one period, Lord Cornwallis intended to convey the main body of his army, and try, by a rapid march, to join a friendly garrison. i'K yi ,1 , ti M /,: 272 YORK TOWN. The victory at York Town, and the emanci- pation of the llnited States, were extremely beneficial to botii parties ; to Great Britain and America. It is a universally acknowledged truth, that the only benefit a country derives from colonies, is the amount of trade carried on with them. Previous to the independence of the United States, there were exported to that country, goods and merchandise to the amount of two and a half millions sterling per annum. Since their independence, the exports have increased to ten millions and sometimes fifteen millions sterling per annum. It is, however, probable, that if they had remained subject to Great Britain, the exports at the present time might have amounted to four millions sterling. The difference between these various sums is, there- fore, the amount of benefit received by Great Britain from the independence of the United States of America. Previous to the Revolution, there was sent out, from time to time, a Governor who, with much difficulty, obtained from the colonies a salary of five hundred pounds sterling per annum. Now, five thousand British subjects annually emigrate to the United States ; they are received in a friendly manner, and with I, '; fl ■;i t VORK TOWN. — SHKIJ- ROCK. (.•< industry mid perseverance gradually acquire a competence. Some acquire wealth. York River is two miles wide opposite the town, anti affortls a safe anchorage tor the largest tlcets. The clitls are composed of fossil shells. Most of the shells are broken ; some arc entire, among which is the magni fr cent Venus deformis. There are also found several species of murex and buccinum ; at low water, the shore is covered with fossil turritella. The shell rock extends three miles along the river, and presents a picturesque view ; in some places, the fragments of shells are black ; in others, white ; sometimes thev are blue or red. The cliffs are thirty feet high, and en- tirely composed of comminuted shells. They are consolidated, and form a rock of some strength ; the walls of the old church at York Town are built of this shell rock, and it has stood the common injuries of time, but the interior has been destroyed by fire. The inha- bitants of York Town seem to be destitute of a place of worship. Fossil pectens of a large size, some of them ten inches wide, are found abundantiv in the lower part of Virginia. 'J'he inhabitants make T \ I ii ! !!:<(! \"'< ii i 271 SHKM. ROCK. — ELECTION. i \ f;! f ( use of them in cooking ; they stand the heat ot' the fire perfectly well. At the tavern at York Town, among other dishes, were oysters baked in these pectens, and brought to table in the shell. I wanted the company of a few scien- tific friends more fully to enjoy the treat. And often in the interior, when seeking in the woods for a spring of pure water, where 1 might allay my thirst, I have seeen a fossil shell, left on the border of a clear rivulet by some former traveller, who had made use of it a*' a cup. I also stooped down by the side of the stream, and drank out of the fossil shell, and the water seemed more cool and refreshing- out of this goblet of nature's production, than if it had been formed of glass or of silver. It was election day for the annual parlia- ment of Virginia, and the voters began to arrive from the country on horseback and in carriages. The candidates do not treat, but their friends make a subscription, and the voters have as much liquor 's they choose. It is a holiday, and the blacks come to the place of voting dressed in their gayest clothes. The inn began to be full of company ; 1 had no wish to see the bustle and confusion of an election, and therefore prepared to depart. 1 i ti NORT-'OLK. 27r» travelled to Hampton, and crossed the river to Norfolk, where I arrived on the following morning. The city of Norfolk carries on an exten- sive trade ; it is advantageously situated, and exports quantities of tobacco and other pro- duce. A dock-yard of the American navy is situated here, and there is depth of water for the largest vessels. The city is built on a level spot of ground, elevated a kw feet above high water; it is chiefly occupied by the stores and houses of merchants. Here I took leave of A^irginia, and cannot help expressing my sense of the kindness which I uniformly received. The Virginians pride themselves on their hospitality, and with justice ; a stranger is received by them as a friend. ;■ II j T 'i !f il i ('fi; ( 276 ) I I ! . I « |5 ^' ' ^ C H AFTER XXXVIf. NEW JERSKY. — RATTLESNAKE fllLL, — BELLEVILLE COPPER MINES. — PASSAIC FALLS. — PATTERSON. — HASALLIC CO- LUMNS. — LONG BRANCH. — PRINCETON COLLEGE. — NEWARK. — VALLEY OF RETINASPHALTUM. — TRENTON. — NEW BRUNSWICK. I WAS invited by a friend to accompany him on a tour to Passaic Falls, and hind a carriage at Jersey city. Our attention was directed to the basaltic range of hills near Bergen, on which the town is built. In Europe the trap rocks form isolated mountains, supposed to be of volcanic origin. In North America the trap rocks extend in a continuous line, several hundred miles, and the summit is very slightly waved. After crossing this range we arrived at an extensive marsh, partially rescued from the tide by an embankment. This marsh was formerly covered by a forest of cedars, ex- tremely valuable from the size of the timber, and their vicinity to New York. By one of those fires, which often arise in the woods of America, the forest was entirely destroyed, HATT),K!S\AKK HIM-.— BELI,EV1LLR MIXES. 277 and only the blackened stumps of the trees remain. The conflagration extended over se- veral square miles, and the sight of the forest in flames was described, by those who saw it from the neighboring hills, as a most sublime spectacle. The cedar stumps are almost in- destructible by age, and the land is therefore of little value. A short distance to the right is Rattlesnake Hill, a bold eminence which rises perpendicu- larly from the plain, and presents a striking contrast with the level swamp by which it is surrounded. After passing five miles over this wilderness, we arrived at the hills of Belleville, where the copper mines are situated. They were worked anterior to the Revolution, and yielded a large quantity of copper ore. They are now re-opened, a steam-engine erected to drain the mines, and the works are proceeding with spirit. It is the only copper mine worked in the United Stites. Belleville is situated on the banks of the river Passaic. The eastern shore of the river is adorned with several villas, surrounded by gardens and shrubberies. Our road lay along the banks of the river which meanders through the valley, [t was in the spring, and we ob- served numerous peach-trees covered with bios. II I 14 li'lr [■A t ? U • i,;: 1 1 tl^ 278 PASSAIC FALLS. — PATTKRSON. sonis on the borders of the farms. In the evening we arrived at a small village near the Upper Falls, and went immediately to view them. The river is confined in its passage be- tween two rocks, but the water was low and we did not see it to advantage. The small hotel where we stopped for the night was kept by a Dutch family, and had few visitors ; we were amused by the antique fur- niture. On the following morning, rising be- fore the family, we found that none of the outer doors were fastened, although it was surrounded by other houses. On inquiry, we found that locks and bolts were unknown in this commu- nity. We had our horse put to the carriage and departed for Patterson, where we arrived in time for breakfast. At a quarter mile distant, secluded by a range of basaltic hills, are the Lower Falls of Passaic ; the stream rushes over a perpendi- cular precipice seventy feet high, into a chasm of the rock. The mist and foam which arise obscure the air, and moisten the clothes of those who approach. The noise of the cataract is heard at some distance, but part of the stream has been diverted to other purposes, and the cascade is deprived of much of its original wildness and grandeur. The best view is H fil II! BAisALTIC COLUMNS. 279 ul)taincd from a precipice in front ; the scene is very striking, as the dark chasm, into which the river falls, is continually sending forth clouds of mist. The river, after its fall, is much interrupted in its course by rocks, which form a succession of rapids. On the black and mural precipices, near the cascade, we saw the dianthus armcria, or wild pink, growing in profusion, and, with its beau- tiful flowers, it exhibited a striking contrast to the scenery around. The trap rock reposes on sandstone. Three feet above the junction is an amygdaloid, which contains zeolite, calcedony, and numerous small garnets. Above the amygdaloid the trap rocks are massive and in irregular strata ; occasionally they exhibit a rude columnar structure, and polygons, with six sides, can be distinctly traced. The summits of many of the hills are com- posed of small basaltic prisms. These prisms have usually four sides, are one or two inches in diameter, and vary in length from four to six inches. Myriads of them are dispersed over the hills in the vicinity. Manufactories have been established at Pat- terson, and to supply the necessary power, tl . ^1 ill ,!! T 4. ilri ^1 ' '^ iil 28(1 LONG HRANCH. waters of Passaic have been diverted from their original channel. AVe returned to New York pleased with our excursion. In many of the Atlantic States there are watering places, frequented during the summer season. I was invited b}^ a friend to visit one of these on the eastern shore of New Jersey. We embarked in a steam-boat, and landed at Barden town, on the Delaware ; at a distance of two miles we saw the country seat of Joseph Bonaparte, late King of Spain ; it is on the bank of the river. Stage coaches were in readiness to convey the company, and we drove rapidly across the sandy plains. We passed within a few miles of Monmouth, where a battle took place in the War of Inde- pendence. The country was in some parts well cultivated, but we passed through exten- sive woods, and, the road not being marked out, had to make a passage through the forest. It required great skill in the driver to prevent the carriage being overturned against the trees. Towards evening we arrived at Long Branch, where I viewed once more the wide expanse, and enjoyed the pure breeze from the Atlantic. There were two hotels ; at the one where wc took up our residence there were eighty visitors, 1 i i L( ) \ a » HAN C H . — P K 1 N C KTf ) N . •JS 1 the uinuber varied every day. Tlie charge was two dollars a day, besides some perquisite to the waiters. For this sum we tared sumptu- ously, and the accommodations were excellent. The amusements consisted in walking on the beach, bathing, riding, reading, and dancing. Balls were given alternately at the two hotels. Fifteen miles north of Long Branch is a range of hills, which extend across the State. On the borders of the sea the hills have been under- mined by the waves; extensive landslips occur, and a tract of land, several hundred acres in extent, and covered with a dense forest, has left its elevated station and moved towards the shore. Princeton, near the centre of the State, is situated on a rising ground. It has a College, one of the oldest institutions of the United States, in whose halls many eminent men have received their education. The faculty of the College consists of a Pre- sident and three professors. The course of instruction embraces Mathematics, Natural Philosophy, the Languages, Ancient and Mo- dern, Chemistry, Mineralogy, Political Eco- nomy, &c., &c. The College hall is built of stone, one hundred and seventy teet long, and four stories high. 1^" ^mf-^H^^mimar* i r u M 282 NKWAKK. On the vvost is a building which contains the recitation rooms and a library. In front of the College is a fine campus ornamented with trees. The scenery of the country near Prince- ton is agreeable ; at the distance of a mile is a range of basaltic hills ; the valleys abound with wild roses; the woods in autumn arc gay with the celastrus scandens, and the mea- dows are adorned with the Oenothera, or even- ing primrose. The seminary of the Presbyte- rian church is situated at Princeton. It is in a flourishing condition, and has one hundred students. During the Revolution, Princeton was the scene of an engagement between the English and American forces. Three regi- ments of the former were attacked by the troops under General Washington. Having the pleasure to be acquainted with the President and Professors of the College, I passed some time at Princeton very agree- ably. Newark is on the Passaic, eight miles from New York, and has a beautiful park near the centre of the town, surrounded by elm trees. It has some manufactures, and carriages of all descriptions are built. Eight miles north-west of Newark is a valley r!P II VALLKY OF RKTINASPMAI.TUM. •_>s;i 1 ley of retinaspluiltum. Accompanied by a friend, I went to visit this remarkable spot. It ex- tends over two acres, and has been formed by the decay of some vegetable substance, but the surface affords no guide to ascertain what this was. It is partially covered by groups of shrubs and herbage, amongst which I could distinguish die carex, scirpus, and eriophorum virginicum, or cotton rush. The birch and alder were also natives of the soil. A drain had been constructed, and the water drawn from the surface of the swamp ; it was perfectly dry. In some places the mineral had the appearance of fine black dust, but there were some masses three inches in diameter. The dry masses broke with a conchoidal frac- ture, were extremely hard, and took a fine polish. At a depth of two feet, it was moist and adhered to the spade. It was a very hot day in August when I examined the place, and the resinous odor was perceptible at some dis- tance, and was very agreeable. This locality, of what may be properly called Carbo retinasphaltum, differs from others in the great quantity of mineral which it contains; its depth is unknown, but is probably about ten feet. At a cottage in the vicinity, it is uscu as fuel, and burns with u bright lively flame. M I li ■p- l.i I) / ( ! n 2HI T 11 !•: \ TON .— N K W B K U N s W 1( K . Within two miles of Newark, is iiiiotliLr lo- cality of II si 'ar substance, but it is covered with water and Moult to obtain. Trenton, on the Delaware, is celebrated in American history, on account of the surprise of the Hessian troops, by the forces com- manded by General Washington. Hy that event the tide of war was changed, the State of New Jersey was rescued from the enemy, and the spirit of the American army was raised. A small stone monument marks the spot. At Trenton, passengers from the north em- bark in the steam-boats which convey them to Philadelphia. The rapids of the Delaware commence at this place, and the navigation above the town is much impeded by rocks. New Brunswick is a place of considerable trade ; it is delightfully situated on the Rari- tan ; the country around is very fertile, and it is distinguished by a college of some eminence. J ; ( •-'«•' ) ■ i ciiapti:h XXXVIII. HOPE. — SPARTA. — FRANKLIN. — MINERALS.— MONTEFERRO. — MARKSBOROUGH. — SNOW POND. — CAMP MEETING. I PASSED through the village of Hope, in the northern part of the State, in the summer of 1824. The village had been recently built, the houses were neat and convenient, and each was surrounded by a garden. The church was a handsome edifice, near the centre of a green, and two school-houses shewed that at- tention was paid to education. The land in the vicinity had been recently cleared, was re- markably fertile, and being diversified by hill and dale, the prospects added much to the beauty of the place. A little meandering stream adorned the fields of this happy village; it seemed the abode of happiness and tran- quillity. Two years afterwards, a person settled in the vicinity of this Eden, tlnew a dam across H U ■' r !it 28(1 HOPR. — SPARTA, |! I * If ; I 1 1 I \ \h li 'i I the stream, and crcctccl a mill. The rivulet, instead of dashing fearlessly along in its usual course, now formed a stagnant pool, and the plants and flowers which formerly grew on its banks were converted into materials for pesti- lence. In the ensuing autumn, intermittent fevers raged ; all the inhabitants were ill, and forty of them died. As the village had been perfectly healthy before the erection of the mill, the disease was of course owing to the obstruction of the stream. The inhabitants made an offer to purchase the mill, that it might be destroyed, but the owner refused to sell it under an exorbitant sum. They had recourse to legal proceedings, and had two trials ; one was given in their favor, the other in favor of their opponent. I passed through the town in the third summer, and the disease was again prevalent ; several had died, yet the survivors submitted to the award of the law with the most perfect resig- nation. If such an occurrence had taken place in England, the question would have been speedily decided by the destruction of the mill. In the County of Sussex, New Jersey, is a town called Sparta; it contains two hotels, five stores, and near thirty houses. Upon a hill, at a short distance from the town, the stone i\ FRANK MN. — MINKHAI.S. J L>H7 f\ walls l)y till.' side of the road are composed of masses otcoiidrodite. Krom Sparta 1 proceeded to Franklin, tlie residence of Fowler, Es(j., who unites the character of a gentleman and a man of science. I3r. Fowler received me in the most hospitable manner, and invited me to take up my quarters at his house, while I explored the country. F'ranklin is in the centre of a valley sixty miles long, and ten miles wide, which contains a greater variety of minerals than perhaps any other locality in the world. The rock in which they occur, is a white crystalline lime- stone, which breaks into rhomboids, and con- tains small particles of graphite. The limestone sometimes attains an elevation of seven hun- dred feet, but usually presents an undulating surface. At Stirling is a vein composed of Franklin- ite and red zinc ore, thirty feet wide, rising like a solid wall upon the side of a hill. It was summer, and the sun, shining at noon-day on the black masses of F>anklinite, made them too hot to be held in the hand, and it was only by selecting those pieces which lay in the shade, that I was enabled to procure specimens. Brown garnet is found at Franklin, in a vein two feet thick ; it was formerly used in the t !l i :,! • i 2^S MONTKKKHRO. Iron runiaco. Melanitc, or black garnet, and tl>e yellow garnet arc found here. Zinciferous augite, brucite of various colors, green spinelle, and red muca, besides many other minerals, occur at this locality. Dr. Fowler possesses a splendid cabinet, and many specimens which are unique. Dr. F. affords to gentlemen, visiting that part of the country, every facility for pursuing their researches. Most of the minerals occur on his est-itcL, which extend several miles. At Monteferro I was received by General Dickerson with the most friendly hospitality; he invited me to stay a few months at his house, but, my time being limited, I could only stay a few days. Monteferro stands on an eminence, commanding a fine view, and is one of the mos» delightful spots in the north part of New Jersey. In the shrubberies are collected a great variety of trees and shrubs, American and European, and the ponds con- tain a variety of water-plants. I met here Dr. Cooper, President of Columbia College. South Carolina, who has resided in America since 1795. He informed me, that he first called the attention of the manufacturers of Manchester to the new process of bleaching by oxymuriatic acid, or chlorine. :h' of by IRON-MINKS. 2H1» General Dickerson was formerly Governor of the State, and is now senator in Congress. We went to see an iron-mine on his estate, which has been worked many years ; the vein is sixteen feet wide, and is a solid mass of protoxide of iron. When first dug up, it is not magnetic, but becomes so on exposure to the air, and acquires polarity ; it contains small particles of fluate of lime, and is found in gneiss rock. In its course through New Jersey, this rock contains numerous veins of iron ore, of a very pure quality, and fit for making the best kind of iron. It is discovered by taking a compass over the surface of the rock ; the presence of the iron ore is indicated by the dipping of the needle. General Dickerson, Dr. Cooper, and myself, went to view the iron-works at Dover. The mode of manufacturing the iron is similar to that practised in Sweden ; the ore is broken into sma»l pieces, and thrown on a bloomery fire, supplied with charcoal. The charcoal and ore are alternately added, until there is a sufficient quantity. In two hours, the mass of iron, with the scoria attacheJ, is taken from the bottom of the forge, and placed under a large hammer, set in motion by a water-wheel. By repeated strokes of the hammer, the scoria i« ij I! f 2DU MARKSnOROUOH. — CAMP-MKETINU. ' I'l ] ' » hi i, lit I I \ forced out of the mass, and it is made into bloomery iron. This is afterwards heated in a furnace, and passed through rollers, when the process is complete. Within a mile of the residence of General Dickerson, are Succasunny Plains, an extensive diluvial tract, extending over several square miles. A canal to connect the rivers Raritan and Delaware is carried across the plain. It will enhance the value of the iron-mines, by affording facilities for taking the ore to market, and it will enable manufacturers of iron to obtain Pennsylvania coal at a cheap rate. We made an excursion to view the excavation of the canal, and saw a number of Irish laborers at work on different parts of the route ; they were fully engaged, working and laughing at the same time, and seemed quite contented. In an excursion in the woods, we saw a fine black snake, five feet long, turning round the lower branches of a tree. I passed two days at Marksborough, the seat of the Hon. — , senator of New Jersey. We were informed that a camp- meeting was assembled at the distance of a few miles, and, accompanied by a friend, I proceeded to view this scene of religious enthusiasm. We did not require a guide, ^ hh\ CAMP-MERTINO. 291 I for a number of persons were hastening towards the place. As we approached, the number of carriages increased, and it seemed as if all the neighboring population had assem- bled to join the celebration. We drove to an inn, with some difficulty found room for the horses, and then walked to the ground. We perceived a number of tents arranged round a circular space, three hundred teet in diameter, which constituted the place of meeting, in the centre of a thick wood. The lower branches of the trees had been cut oft' to give room for the congregation, but the higher branches were left undisturbed. The foliage afforded a fine shade, which was acceptable, as it was the middle of summer. On the north side of the inclosure, was an open booth, and the floor was elevated five feet above the ground ; here the ministers were seated. There were six present, and they alternately took their places, and officiated, by preaching and singing hymns. We re- mained an hour during the celebration of divine worship, and admired the novelty of the scene, and the harmony of the singing, but the sermon was a complete rant, and gave us an unfavorable idea of the abilities of the preacher. After the service, we were intro- u 2 n ! I ! MJ il ;■{ m 292 CAMP-MEKTINO. '! r: 0\ f 'i *■ ) il n i) I ' duced to the minister, and inquired the par- ticulars of the meetino^s. He replied, "There was a regular service three times a day, and a meeting for prayer in the evening, besides convocations for missionary purposes." On walking round the camp ground, we observed the tents were neat and spacious, divided into two apartments, separated by a curtain. The owners were assembled i,n the outer room, and the front of the tents being- open, we observed them making preparations for dinner. They carry with them the most abundant supplies of all sorts of provisions. In two of the tents the inmates, who were chiefly females, were singing hymns. If none but persons who were religiously inclined attended these camp-meetings, the idea of worshiping the Almighty beneath the canopy of his magnificent sky, would perhaps meet with few objections ; but it is unfortunate that these assemblages, which usually last a week, and at a fine season of the year, attract the people for a circle of many miles, and a species of fair is held. Towards the close of these meetings, we were informed, that the enthusiasm of people who attended them, was raised to the highest pitch ; what are called sudden conversions SNOW POND. '2\):i lid of of take place ; individuals give themselves up to the most frantic extravagance, and a scene of confusion ensues. In the northern counties of New Jersey are numerous marl-pits, formed by the decay and dissolution of fresh-water shells. Some are of great extent. A very singular one in the vi- cinity of Marksborough is called the Snow Pond. I. Thompson, Esq., politely went with me to view it. When seen at a distance, it appeared ':is if the ground was covered with drifts of snow, although it was in the month of August. On arriving at the spot, I found it was caused by innumerable small white shells, which formed a border to a pond, three miles in circumference. The shells extended in many parts a hundred yards from the shore, and a cove which extended a mile was com- pletely filled with them. Towards the centre of the pond the bank of shells declined sud- denly to an unknown depth ; many attempts had been made to fathom it, but without suc- cess. The shells are extremely minute, none of them more than three lines in diameter, and many one third of that size. They appear like grains of sand. The quantity amounts to many thousand tons. Recent shell-fish of the same kind are no doubt living in the centre of jMll I *•■•« 8' ^|; , ) t 2iH SNOW POND. the pond, but have not hitherto been noticed on the surface. No use is made of this im- mense deposit of shells, although a very pure carbonate of lime. A small dam thrown across one end of the pond was said to have been made by the beavers. There is more happiness in the world than people in general imagine ! The inhabitants of thcwse beautiful shells have enjoyed their mountain-lake from time immemorial — un- disturbed by the ambition of man, they have lived, and enjoyed tranquillity ! I ii It' d n- re 41 /e 111 its iir ri- ve i ( -••>•'• ' CHAPTER XXXIX. THE PILGRIMAGE. nENNSELAKRVILLIS. — MlUDLEBUnCH. — VALLEY OF SCO- IIARIE. — irEUMITS — KING CAUCUS. — WATERVILLE. DELHI. — WALTON, — I'ORT DEPOSIT. — TIMBER RAFT.S. — DELAWARE. — UNADILLA. — HELMONT. — LACCAWANNA. — VALLEY OF WYOMING. — WILKESUARRE. — ARKS. — COM- MERCE.— WILD LANDS. — BERWICK. — DANVILLE. NORTH- UBIBERLAND, — DR. PRIESTLEY's TOMB. I HAD a relation reposing near the Susque- hanna, and I had not yet paid a visit to his tomb, although his name had often introduced me to agreeable society and to valued friends. In many a gay and crowded party, I had re- proached myself for not having performed this sacred duty. I examined the map, and found the distance was near two hundred and fifty miles, and there was no distinct road between the Delaware and Susquehanna ; but I took a short sketch of the route, and determined, " Viam inveniam, aut faciam." I proposed to walk, and the chief difficulty ■J, ii i !. ^ I? I I:': !l lit iii 1 .f. . • •1, : M ' < ( k 20t) RRNNSKI.AKRVILI.K. WHS the season of the year. It was winter, and the ground was covered with snow. But, when we wish to acconiplish any ol>ject, a few obstacles are no great impediment. Besides, I was accustomed to take a great deal of exer- enjoy the beauties of the country, and cise have often walked in a snow-storm in England merely to observe the beauty of the landscape, and the gay appearance of the forest. T pro- mised myself that if I was successful in my present visit, I would make another pilgrimage at a gayer season of the year, when the flowers were in bloom, the birds were singing, and all nature wore a gay and animated aspect. It was the 22nd of February, 1825, that 1 commenced my solitary pilgrimage from the city of Albany ; it was a dark and cloudy day, like the November of England. At six o'clock in the evening I arrived at Rennselaerville, a pleasant village, near the borders of a small stream, and on the declivity of a hill. The mountains of Catskill are seen to the south- wc >i. The distance was twenty-three miles, and I felt very little fatigue. Feb. 23. The landlord informed me that a farmer was proceeding in his sleigh near to Waterville, where I intended to go, and would be happy to have my company. Although this MlDDLEBUlUiM.— VALJ.KV l)K SCOFlAlllK. 21)7 broke in upon my resolution, I could not well refuse the offer. My companion wished to make a small detour to visit a friend, and we arrived towards noon at Middleburgh, and stopped two hours at the hotel. The unex- ampled success of the New York Canal had spread a rage for canals through the State; and in this small town, surrounded by moun- tains, and nearly cut off from all communica- tion with their fellow-citizens, the inhabitants had caught the reigning fashion. During our stay there was nothing talked of but the sub- ject of internal navigation, and we left them arranging the time when they should meet the canal committees from the neighboring towns. I was afterwards informed that a route for a canal was surveyed in this part of the country, but found to be totally impracticable. Two miles south of the town is an eminence where, in ancient times, a band of Indians are said to have formed an ambush ; after wait- ing for a favorable opportunity, they sallied down upon the peaceful inhabitants, and, kill- ing a great number, carried the rest into cap- tivity. At a short distance from the town, we arrived at the Valley of Scoharie, where a river of the same name flows towards the north. 208 KINO CAUCUS. ); If:' '; M t ' The iiills on rach side were covered vvifli a profusion of forest trees ; the hirch, cedar, walnut, and sumach, grow luxuriantly. The river was sometimes hid from our view by the forest, or covered with ice ; at other times it rushed impetuously over its rocky bed. The field and the forest, the hill and the valley, were all covered with snow ; I wrote my name on the snow in the valley as a memorial of my journey, and if a few summers* suns have not melted it away, it is there still to be seen. We had to go some distance to cross the river where the ice was sufficiently firm to bear our sleigh. At seven o'clock in the evening we arrived at a small house where a tavern had been formerly kept. We found the court of King Caucus was to be held there. In the States of North America, all the officers, from those which refer to the government of a town to the Governors of States, are chosen by Caucus. The two par- ties meet at separate inns, and canvas the merits of the various candidates. They are put in nomination, and whoever has the ma- jority of votes is supported by the whole party. It is similar to the associations which take place previous to the public meetings in En- gland, where resolutions are prepared before i :! I ii of HRUMITS OK SCOHAIMK. 2JM) they arc submitted to the geiiLral voice. The inhabitants of the valley were asHemblcil to choose their county officers. The rooai was desolate, with not a single a tide of furniture ; and, after waiting half an hour, we proceeded onwards. Our road now led through woods of fir and pine, and the contrast between the dark gloom of the forest and the snow with which it was covered was very striking. The road was narrow, up a steep ascent ; we heard the noise of a mountain torrent on our left, but the night was dark, and we could not distinguish the stream. My guide had previously taken the sleigh-bells from the horse, that we might move silently through the forest. He dreaded to encounter the Hermits of Scoharie, men who, with an axe as their sole companion, penetrate into these forests to cut down the pine timber. He said, that, being in want of every necessary of life, they sometimes stopped travellers on the road. We passed two her- mitages, but were fortunate in not meeting with the owners. After travelling several miles through the tbrest, we began to emerge from its gloom. The moon had now arisen, and shed her bril- liant light over the landscape. 1 1 ^;^!i I ■ ! 3U0 WATKHVI1,I,K. ) I '}' i^ yii " Km la iiotte, e'l suo stt'llato vclo Chiuro sj)i>'gava e HtMi/a iinbc alcuiia: K gill Hpargea nii lumiuosi, c gijilo Di vive pt-rle la sorgeuto Luua." The night was intensely eohl, hut J reniem- her with pleasure my sleigh-ride in the Valley of Scoharie. At eleven o'eloek at night we arrived at a small inn. My guide departed to his farm in the neighborhood, and, after taking some refreshment, I retired to rest. The dis- tance travelled this day was probably thirty miles. Feb. 24. On inquiry, I found that I was nine miles from Waterville. The snow was deep, and for two miles 1 walked througu a forest where the path was not very distic tly marked, and arrived at the main road. After proceeding three miles further, I perceived on the left a small pond, the source of the river Delaware. I soon arrived at Waterville, the highest settlement on the river, where there are several saw-mills and a few stores. Great activity is displayed in cutting down lumber in the forest, and preparing it for market. A tew miles beyond the town I observed a farm- house by the side of the road, and wishing to make some inquiries, I called, and Ibund the I WATKHVIM.K. MO I proprietor at home. lie immediately hatl re- freshments broiiu;ht out, and insisted on my staying to partake of them. He had been confined a long time to the house by an attack of the gout, or some other disorder, and had time to reflect on the po- litical condition of his country. I was (juitc surprised at his mode of viewing the subject. He said, " In most countries they are content to have one despot ; but here there are two tyrants to whom I am obliged to submit — the President of the United States, and the Governor of the State of New York. I voted against both of them, yet they are put in au- thority over me. And yet they call this a free country ! When my party were in power, they did not give me any office. They talk of making a canal down this valley ; but the first man who comes on my farm to take levels, I will shoot him." This individual had a large farm, and was surrounded by the comforts of life. When he made these and numerous other speeches of the same kind, his eyes sparkled with delight, and he quite forgot his sufferings from disease. I -cmained so long listening to his speeches that 1 did not arrive at Delhi till some time after dark. The road for the last few miles was very bad, the snow li \l r V If I il ■ ill 302 DELHI, having partialh thawed ; the distance I liad travelled this day was twenty-four miles. Delhi is a flourishing town, and contains an excellent hotel, where I obtained every atten- tion that I desired. The business transacted is chiefly in preparing lumber, and there are a few stores. The church, school-house, and court-room are situated at the side of an open square. The houses are painted. Feb. 25. Setting out rather late in the morning, I pursued my journey. Great part of the distance was through woods, but there were some spots of cultivated ground. In a few miles, the valley enlarged, and, seeing a house, finely situated on an eminence, I called there to obtain a glass of water. I was highly gratified with my visit, although it was only for a tew minutes. It was the neatest house I have seen in America ; every thing was ar- ranged with the most scrupulous exactness. The proprietor had a farm of several hundred acres of woodland and cultivated ground, and the house commanded a fine view. The ladies were engaged in spinning flax. The father was representative for his county, and was at Albany, attending the meeting of the Legisla- ture, but he was expected home in a few days to attend to the business of the farm. Alto- i WALTON. — PORT DRPOSrr. '.MVS gether, it presented a charming rural scene. I have often thought of the neat farm-house in the Valley of Delhi, and the picture of happi- ness which it seemed to present. Early in the afternoon, 1 arrived at Walton, a distance of only fourteen miles. The road for nearly four miles pursued the course of the river. The banks were precipi- tous and clothed with wood ; and in the middle of winter, the scenery was wild and romantic. But I had now to encounter a very formidable obstacle, of which I had been informed at Walton ; this was a steep hill, nearly five miles across, covered with a forest, and not a single house to enliven the view. The road was covered with ice, and was in many places so steep and slippery that it was difficult to as- cend. When I had proceeded near a mile, I was joined by a traveller on horseback ; but, after accompanying me some distance, he con- tinued his journey. I began for once to be tired of the monotony of the forest ; even the tulip-trees had lost their charm. The road in descending the mountain was exceedingly slip- pery and dangerous, and I was rejoiced when I had passed this ice-covered hill. I arrived at night at Port Deposit, having travelled a distance of twenty-three miles. 304 PORT DEPOSIT. ii:.. m ' I i i Feb. 27. Sunday. I remained the whole day at this small town ; it snowed incessantly. The inhabitants of Port Deposit gain a sub- sistence by engaging in the lumber trade. They proceed to the forest in summer, cut down the lofty pine trees, and saw them to a certain length ; when the snow falls in winter, the timber is drawn bv oxen and horses to the saw-mills, and cut into boards. In spring, they are collected in rafts, each of which con- tains thirty thousand boards ; these are floated to a distance in the river, and when the stream becomes wider, two are joined together. The double rafts are guided by four men, one of them has greater wages, and is called the pilot; he has the principal command. if they escape the perils of the flood, and are not stranded on some of the rocks or shoals with which the river abounds, they arrive in a few days at Philadelphia. The state of the market varies ; sometimes the sale is rapid, at other periods they have to wait a long time before they can dispose of their cargo. When it is sold, they return home on foot. The country round Port Deposit is covered with wood ; the oak and pine are cut, the rest of the forest is left standing. When the pro- i (i FORT DEPOSIT. 305 prietors reside near their land, the persons who cut lumber are obliged, though very unwilling- ly, to purchase it, and sometimes pay fifty dollars per acre. Every year they are obliged to penetrate deeper into the forest. Deer abound. The wild elk is sometimes caught in the districts to the north. Bears and wolves are numerous ; the panthers find a safe retreat m the interminable woods. The distance between the Delaware and Unadilla, in this part of their course, is not more than fifteen miles. The guide whom I had on the following day said, that in the first settlement of the country, provisions were scarce, and thev sometimes went to the Una- dilla to procure fish, which were ctiught in great quantities. On one occasion, his family were destitute of food ; he went on foot to the Unadilla, and procured as many fish as he could carry. On returning home through the forest, he heard a noise, and looking back, saw six wolves fol- lowing his steps, attracted by the smell of the fish. They came near. The struggle in his mind was now severe, between his dread of being attacked by the wolves, and his fear of seeing his wite and children starving at home. He persevered, and carried his provi- X it t 30G STARUCCAVILLE. — DUNDAFF. sions safe ; the wolves followed him the whole distance to his cottage, but did not attack him. Feb. 28. I had a guide as far as Starucca- ville ; beyond this I lost my way in the forest. The snow had drifted, in many places, three feet deep, there was no regular path, and my resolution was almost exhausted. All around was a dreary expanse of snow. At last I de- termined to {)ersevere, and walked in a direc- tion which I thought would lead to the high road. I succeeded in arriving at Belmont, which was a few miles out of the course I ought to have travelled. The distance was twenty-four miles. March 1. The country was now more cleared and settled, and I had no difficulty in finding the road. I passed through a small town, called Dundaff, and stopped at night at a tavern kept in a log-house. The landlord was a contented man ; living in the midst of the woods, with little communication with the rest of the world, he said money was almost unknown in that part of the country ; the traffic was carried on by exchange. He had some sheep, but had lost many of them by the wolves, whom he frequently heard howling at night in the forest. Land might ' J.ACCAWANNA. 307 be purchased for three dollars per acre, and a long time granted for jmyment. The distance travelled this day was seven- teen miles. March 9. At the distance of a few miles, I arrived in the Valley of Laccawanna. Where the ground was bare of snow, I perceived a sandy soil. I was now upon a coal formation which extends to the Susquehanna; it contains numerous strata, and in many places the coal is obtained by merely taking the trouble to open a quarry ; the demand is at present so small as to otibr little inducement to open mines. I examined thirty different places, where the coal appears above the surface of the ground. 1 walked over extensive fields of coal, which, in EngK. I, would probably sell for one thousand pounds sterling per acre. In this valley, land containing coal might be purchased for one pound sterling per acre. The farmers who possessed this inexhaustible fund of wealth were in comparative poverty. There was no cash market for their produce, except at a distance of sixty miles. A canal has been commenced between the northern ex- tremity of this district an^' New York, which will open an immense market. The coal is anthracite. X 2 I- .■J08 PITTSTON BRIDGE. — WyOMlNG. I slept at a small inn, having walked only thirteen miles. March 3. I rose very early, and walked ten miles down the valley. At Pittston Bridge 1 saw a neat inn, and began to make inquiries about breakfast. At that moment, a fisherman brought to the door some young pike, which he had caught in the stream. They were immediately pur- chased, and the landlady, who was from the "old countrie," began to exert her skill. In an hour, the finest breakfast was prepared that I ever enjoyed — the tea was the best that China ever produced — cakes, made of the finest wheaten flour, — young pike, fresh from the river, — sauce, for which Lord Blayney must have given the receipt. I proceeded a few miles, and, emerging from a wood, beheld a most charming view ; it was the Valley of Wyoming. Yet thou wert once the loveliest land of all, That saw the Atlantic wave its mom restore, Delightful Wyoming ! beneath whose skies, The happ}' shepherd swains had nought to do But feed their flocks on green declivities, Or skim, perchance, thy stream with light canoe. The snow was nearly gone ; it was the first morning of spring. It was a still and quiet i first [^uiet ? WJLKKSBAURK. ••an) scene ; tlie surface of the Susqiiehanim was scarcely undulated by a single wave ; the op- posite shore was occupied by highly cultivated farms ; beyond, was a chain of mountains covered with forests. On the north, the river finds a passage through the mountain, which seems divided to let it pass. I remained an liour to contemplate the view. It is a beauti- ful sight to behold the gentle current of the Susquehanna as it passes the Valley of Wy- oming. This was once the scene of an engagement, which has been well described by the poet. 1 saw an aged peasant, who informed me he was in the battle. I went to his cottage, and entered into conversation with him. He swam across the river with some of his companions after their defeat, but they were taken prisoners as they landed. Their captors were nearly sa- tiated with slaughter, and he afterwards es- caped. As he could have no motive for telling an untruth, and his neighbors confirmed his tale, 1 had every reason to believe his statement. An hour's walk brought me to Wilkesbarre; 1 had travelled this day about seventeen miles. At the house of Z. Cist, Esq., I met with a most hospitable reception, similar to what I have so often ex))erienced in America. i I ;iio VALLRV OF SUSQURII/VNNA. ,# j 'i^ l( ' » > (; Mr. Cist was a naturalist ; lie had made a collection of insects and minerals, and was zealous in every pursuit that would elucidate the resources of his country. He was chair- man of a society for internal improvement, and had an extensive correspondence with various individuals in the United States. His house commanded a delightful view over the Susquehanna. At a little distance were the piers of a bridge ; the superstructure of wood had been lifted from its position by a hurricane, broken to pieces, and scattered in the river. We observed some carpenters building two enormous arks, in which produce is sent down the river ; they are ninety feet long, sixteen feet wide, and three feet deep, and are built of planks, three inches thick, rudely fastened to- gether. As they cannot return against the stream, they are broken up and sold at the ter- mination of the voyage. The produce of the Valley of Susquehanna, for a distance of four hundred miles, is con- veyed to tide-water in these immense arks, in the spring of the year, when the water rises sufficiently high. At that time the river, for a distance of several miles, appears covered with immense rafts of timber, and with these arks, COLUMBIA. — ARKS, .'HI carrying barley, rye, maize, whiskey, wheat, flour, coal, and pearl-ashes. The surface of the river presents a gay and animated spectacle ; the boatmen have instru- ments of music, drums, trumpets, and violins, and the arks are decorated with numerous flags. They celebrate with feasting and re- joicing the harvest of the ; ''.'. On their voy- age down the river they anchor at night. At Columbia, a town further to the south, where the difficulties of the naviga'jon increase, they engage a pilot, who is paid sixty or eighty dollars, according to the value of the cargo. The arks are guided by poles, and by a spe- cies of rudder, made of a large plank fastened to the end of a piece of timber. One is fixed at each end, and, being guided by two men, gives them great power over the direction of the vessel. But sometimes in the rapids, notwithstanding the utmost exertion of strength and skill, the arks are dashed against the shore, the cargo is lost, and the ark-men perish ; at other times they run upon concealed rocks. In the year 1825, more than eight hundred and forty large arks, and nine hundred rafts of timber, besides smaller boats, passed down the river. When they arrive at tide-water, an im- mense number of schooners and sloops are i I I ;ii2 MR. CIST. ih ' >''i . it '' » ' :di' M waiting to convey the produce to the cliiTcrent ports. Its value has been estimated at more tlian one million of dollars. March 4. Mr. Cist wished me to stay a week, but, my time being limited, I could only remain one day. We visited several coal-mines, ascended the mountains of transition sandstone, and enjoyed a pleasant excursion. We intended to return to Wilkesbarre to dinner, and preparations were made to receive us, but our ramble was longer than we expected. We began to feel the want of provisions, and were at a distance from any house. Mr. Cist proposed an Indian feast, which consists of the inner bark of the birch- tree ; he said that, when hunting, he had often made use of it, and found it serviceable. We soon found a birch-tree, and breaking off some of the tender branches, stripped off the outer bark, and ate the inner rind ; we found it highly aromatic, but I cannot recommend it, except on very rare occasions, as a substitute for a good dinner. Mr. Cist and his friends were owners of large tracts of wild lands in the interior of the State. I asked his opinion about them as an article of speculation. His account was not very favorable. Their value depends entirely I WILD LANDS. 313 1. 1 Aw i OH tlic'ir situation, and persons in Europe liave sometimes been disappointed in their pur- chases. Persons wlio wish to possess land need not travel to Indiana or Illinois for that purpose. Eight tenths of the land of Penn- sylvania is not yet settled. In many counties of New York land may be purchased at two dollars per acre. The Holland Land Com- pany now offer farms at that price. This land is at a distance from any settlement, but new roads and canals are commenced. By the laws of Pennsylvania, unsettled lands are charged with a tax ; and although the amount is small, yet in the course of years it increases to a large sum. There have been many in- stances of persons giving up their lands after holding possession of them for several years. March 5. Taking leave of my friend, I proceeded on my journey. At the ferry, where 1 crossed the river, a boy, apparently twelve years of age, came to receive the passage- money. I could scarcely believe it was a human being I saw before me : he w^as ex- tremely thin ; his frame seemed shrunk with disease. I inquired if he was not ill ? He answered, No ; he had had the intermittent lever, but was now recovered. The inhabi- tants on the low banks of the river are afflicted n M \ i! ' > t • ' .M\ HKllWICK.— DANVII.LK. — NORTHUMnKRI.ANI). with tilis scourtj^c; during the last three years it had hecn umiHiially severe. 1 proceeded on the west Ijank ol" Susquehanna, and at night arrived at IJervvick, a (hstance of twenty-livo nnles. March 6. 1 set out at twelve o'clock, and arrived after it was dark at Danville, twenty- two miles. March 7. I vvas near the end of my j)il- grimage, and it was finished under different auspices to those with which it commenced. The snow was all gone, the morning vvas fmc, the road vvas upon the bank of tiie river. The scenery was charming, and 1 felt rejoiced at having nearly closed my journey. At twelve o'clock 1 arrived at Northumberland, on the Susquehanna, and inquired lor the mansion and tomb of Dr. Priestley. In his youth he had to struggle with many difficulties. " Fortiaque advcrsis opponite pcctora rebus." When thirty years of age, he was minister of a small country church, with a salary of twenty-five pounds sterling a year; a hesita- tion in his speech which prevented his being a popular preacher ; and his sentiments of re- ligious truth were opposed. He had to con- tend v^'ith disease, poverty, and persecution. it! ,i i NOriTHUMHKRI.ANI). Dlt. I'RIKSTI-KV. • Jl') \ What liati \\v. to support him in this fbrloni and (It'solatc situation? His (ItpiMidiMict; was upon Cod, whom his cnemii's said lie con- temned ; and that love of science whicli ot'te" rcMiders its votary superior to evils whi N would crush other men. He was content he could procure a few tests for his chemical experiments, or glass for an electrical machine. His first experiments were made with an ap- jiaratus that cost a tew shillings, and by its means the world was made ac(|uainted with the constituent parts of the atmosphere. Fortune began to be tired of persecuting a man who felt not her frowns, and his advancing age saw him gradually emerge from the clouds which s* emed to envelop him. His finances became more favorable, and he finally enjoyed affluence. He was chosen a member of the most dis- tinguished learned societies of the age. He lived to see his religious opinions adopted by numerous churches. He acquired honorable fame. He enjoyed the truest happiness that human life can afford — the society of those elevated by talent and virtue to a high station in so- ciety. He was the intimate friend of Lindsey, Barbauld, and Aikin ; of Price, Watt, and I' ' 1 1 1 I ti \ 310 DR. PRIKSTI.KY. m I m j,. fi' i Keir; of Shelburne, Galton, and Franklin; of Cavendish, Lavoisier, and Jefferson. The friend of those individuals must have been a happy and a distinguished man. He corresponded with the scientific men of the century in which he lived. I went to view his mansion, where the last few years of his life were passed. On the peaceful shore of the gentle Susquehanna he might congratulate himself, " D avere finalmente trovato nn porto alia sua agitata fortuna." The garden, orchard, and lawn, extend to the side of the river. A sun-dial, which still re- tains its station, was presented to Dr. Priestley by an eminent mathematician in London. Two large willow-trees grow near the man- sion ; under their shade he often enjoyed the summer evening breeze. His laboratory is now converted into a house for garden-tools ! the furnaces pulled down ! the shelves unoccupied ! the floor covered with Indian corn ! A stranger might be inclined to say, " Sic transit gloria philosophiee. " But, when the chemist, or the historian, or the philosopher, or the divine, examine the DR. PRIESTLEY'S TOMB. 317 records of the various branches of learning in which they are skilled, then will his name be honored. To this laboratory the children from the school were accustomed to come, once a week, and he would amuse them with experiments. The tomb of my giandfather, Dr. Priestley, is in the environs of the town, surrounded by a low wall. I knelt by my ancestor's tomb, and the perils and toils of my pilgrimage were remembered with pleasure. f f i f! I i-i ( 318 ) CHAPTER XL. NATIONAL POWER OF AMERICA. CLEARING LAND. — LA RAYSVILLE. /, I PASSED some time with my friend J. Ynn Heuvcl, Esq., at his mansion in St. Lawrence County, New York, and had thus an op|)or- tunity of witnessing the various modes of clearing wild Ir nds. The settlers usually pur- chase a tract of land of one or two hundred acres at five dollars an acre, to be paid in ten years by annual instalments, with interest. He then commences by building a log-hut, in which his neighbors assist. There are five operations required to clear the land of timber. 1. Underbrushing. Tlie settler takes a hatchet, or sharp iron tool, and cuts up the underwood and small bushes, which he piles in heaps. 2. Cutting. The trees are now cut down with an axe, about three feet from the ground, (■ r i CLEARING LAND. — LA RAYSVILLR, 3V.) and from constant practice, the settlers acquire great dexterity in this art. 3. Chopping. The branches of the trees are cut off and piled up. 4. Burning. A dry, windy day being chosen, fire is applied to the immense heaps of brush-wood, and these bonfires have a splendid appearance in the forest, especially when, as it often happens, the fire catches some of the hoi low trees which have been left standing. A brilliant pyramid of fire, accompanied by the hollow roaring noise of the air rushing up the ignited trunks, then announces the triumph of man over the forest. 6. Branding. The unconsumed trunks of the trees, which are lying in all directions, partially burnt and charred on the outside, are now collected in heaps, and this is the blackest work performed by the settlers: when engaged in it, they resemble the charcoal-burners of the forest. 6. Seeding. The ground is now hastily dragged over with a harrow, and wheat is sown. The first crop is usually so abundant, as to pay the first cost of the land and all ex- penses. At La Raysville, I was received by the Vis- count Le Ray de Chaumont in a most friendly 1 1 V— -.^ J 320 NATIONAL POWER OF THE AMERICANS. manner, and passed a » w days very agreeably. The magnificent house and grounds contain every thing that can make a country residence delightful — a library, greenhouse, and beautiful garden, where a small subterranean stream suddenly gushes into day, and shrubberies, beautifully planted, are situated on the borders of a pine forest which extep. ] over fifteen thousand acres. It exhibits all the perfection of art situated on the confines of the wild scenerv of nature. Watertown, in the vicinity, is a flourishing place, distingLuhed by the enterprise of the inhabitants. I* }■• The national power of the United States of America depends on her fleet. She now pos- sesses one hundred vessels of war, carrvin^^ from one to one hundred and forty guns each. The American fleet could now vanquish any of the secondary naval powers of Europe. But instead of the vain-glorious rivalry of war, if we turn to the cheering spectacle of human improvement, we perceive that the United States deserve well of the human race. In whatever part of the world liberty is enjoy- ed in the greatest perfection, there we behold the greatest amount of private happiness and I f NATIONAL POWER OF THE AMRRICANS. 32 1 public prosperity — Rome — Carthage — Venice — Florence — Holland. The might, the ma- jesty, the magnificence of England ! to what does she owe her elevation among the nations of the earth ? To her free press, to her trials by jury, to her parliaments, where discussion is free. In the United States of North America still more freedom is enjoyed, and there is only a slight barrier between the popular feeling and the execution of its will. Thus, on every side — the forest disappears beneath the axe of the settler — villages, towns, and cities are built and enlarged — public edifices are built, which vie with those of Europe in beauty and grandeur — commerce, unfettered by restriction, extends her empire to every part of the world — schools are established — libraries are founded — uni- versities are endowed — civil and religious liberty are guaranteed to all. r I'hi^ fe»i ( 322 ) CHAPTER XLI. CANADA. — THOUSAND ISLES. — PRESCOT. — MONTUEAL. — QUE- BEC. — PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. — MONTMORENCI. — SLEIGH- RIDE. — KINGSTON. — YORK. — MAEL8TR00M. — NIAGARA FALLS. I EMBARKED in a steam-boat on Lake On- tario, and on a fine summer morning arrived at the Thousand Isles of the St. Lawrence, which commence at the debouchure of Lake On- tario, and continue at intervals for forty miles. Never can the memory of that delightful scene be effaced from my mind ! The magnificent St. Lawrence, with its transparent waters, is divided into various channels by numerous rocky islets of every possible shupe ; some are a few feet, others a mile or more in circum- ference, but seldom rising more than sixty feet above the surface of the water, and crowned with pine, fir, cedar, oak, and sumach, the va- riety of whose foliage adds a charm to the view, which is increased by the sight of the batteaus of the Canadian voyageurs skilfully piloted through the intricate navigation. MONTREAL. 32;j We landed at Prescot, a small town on the Canadian side of the river. Here the rapids of the St. Lawrence commence, and continue with intervals to Montreal. I afterwards re- gretted that I did not descend them in one of the batteaus ; and the fact, that the poet Moore had descended by the same route, ought to have been a sufficient inducement. By the line of stage-coaches and steam-boats 1 was rapidly conveyed to Montreal, near which city the river Ottawa joins the St. Lawrence. Montreal is a very flourishing city, and carries on an extensive commerce. Vessels of three hundred tons' burthen can ascend the St. Lawrence to this port, and the use of steam- boats has much increased the business of the citv. Most of the streets are narrow, and the houses are built on the old French plan, with their gable-ends to the streets, and there are iron shutters to the doors and windows which, at first sight, give the city rather a gloomy ap- pearance. The Cathedral is a noble building, superior to any other I had seen on the American con- tinent ; it will contain twelve thousand people. From the mountain in the vicinity, from which I •11, .T2I MONTIIKAL. — QUEHKC. fei* * . If* the city derives its name, there is a fine view. The Valley of the St. Lawrence, for near eight hunched miles, is composed of tertiary forma- tions ; they are extremely flat, and, conse- quently, a very slight elevation commands a view over an extensive horizon. The Natural History Society of Montreal have been very assiduous in their investiga- tions. From my friend Dr. H., I received every attention. Embarking in a steam-boat, I landed in Quebec ; and the sight of this magnificent capital of the British Possessions in North America recalled many of those historical re- collections of which it is the subject. There are two towns, or, rather, cities — the Lower Town, near the water's edge, where the com- mercial business is chiefly transacted ; and the Upper, which is surrounded by strong fortifi- cations. The Citadel, Fort Diamond, is very strong from its natural situation, and the large sums which have been laid out upon its works. The British flag waves proudly from its summit. The Chateau of St. Louis is the Govern- ment House, where his Excellency Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-chief of the British North American Provinces, resides, whose PLAINS OK AiniAHAM. — MONTMOREN'CI. .•{2.') liberal and enlightened policy probably gives as much satisfaction to the Canadians as any British Governor can possibly do. Paying no taxes and possessing an extensive and fertile country, the Canadians ought to be happy. I should be wanting in gratitude were 1 not to express my obligations to his lordship for his po- lite invitations while 1 was resident at Quebec. The views near Quebec are numerous. The Plains of Abraham, where General Wolfe gained a victory and received his death-wound, and where his adversary, Montcalm, fell — Montmorenci, unsurpassed by any cataract in America in the height of its cascade — the wooded banks of the St. Lawrence — and the fortified city-walls — present a unique and sublime scene. The Literary and Historical Society devote much attention to exploring the history of the province, and have made large collections in the various departments of natural history. In winter, Quebec presents a scene of gaiety. Dinner-parties at the Chateau and at the houses of the merchants and civilians suc- ceed each other rapidly. Three regiments are usually stationed at Quebec, and the Tandem Club muster twenty-five or thirty splendid equipages. To my friend W. Sheppard, Esq., 1 11= V'\ ;j2() SI.EIOH-RIDE. — KIXOSTON. of the Woodlands, and many other gentlemen, I was indebted for act? of hospitality which proved that the good c'i British feeling had lost none of its kindness by being transplanted to another hemisphere. I left Quebec in February, and had a very pleasant sleigh-ride of four hundred miles over the snow to Kingston, in Upper Canada. Winter is usually selected in Canada as the season for undertaking long journeys, on ac- count of the facility with which they are made at that period. Small fir-trees are cut down and placed at intervals of about one hundred yards, and thus form a species of avenue to direct the traveller the road he is to take. The river St. Lawrence being frozen over, the road passed over it for many miles, and, as the habitans du pays were busily employed in carrying their various products to market, it presented a lively scene. Kingston is the depot for the English naval force on Lake Ontario, and, in the last war with the Americans, displayed a scene of much activity. The town has about five thou- sand inhabitants. A very remarkable geological fact may be noticed in the vicinity, one mile west of the town. Limestone of the upper transition for- ;i YORK. — MAELSTROOM. 327 mation is crystallized in the form of basaltic columns. The stratum of limestone is three feet in thickness. The columns are usually octagonal, and vary in length from six inches to three feet. It may be called basaltiform limestone. The mountain at Montreal ex- hibits a similar arrangement, but on a larger scale, and the columns are there vertical. At Kingston they are horizontal. York, the capital of Upper Canada, is in- creasing rapidly in size and population since the great influx of emigrants from Great Bri- tain. Crossing Lake Ontario, I landed at Fort George. The Maelstroom of Niagara, three miles below the Falls, is nearly a quarter of a mile in diameter, surrounded by rocks of sandstone, shale, and limestone, two hundred feet high. The dark and sombre waters are continually whirled round the centre in a perpetual current, and large pine-trees which have fallen from the banks appear like so many straws upon its surface; they are carried round with a resist- less force, and, when they approach the centre, are engulfed in an upright position. They gradually disappear, and are carried by an under current to some distance. The farmer ir 'I ' ri, • :J28 NIAGARA FALLS. :.'=r, '■|!' fi' i II::,: ,-? I '■ i; U. on the adjoining land relates tliat some large cedars were cut on the banks of the river above, to make palisades for the neighboring fort of St. Georg(;, and were made into a raft. Two soldiers were on it just before it was completed, when by some accident it broke loose. One soldier fell off the raft, and was drowned ; the other was carried down by the stream, and the raft entered the Maelstroom. He was whirled round nearly the whole day. His cries brought the people to his assistance, and they threw provisions on the raft to keep him from starving. Towards night they succeeded in throwing a long rope, by which he escaped to the shore, and was thus rescued from his perilous situation. The Falls of Niagara have been so often described that, in the short limits to which 1 shall confine myself, it will be impossible to do them justice. To have an accurate idea of them, they must be seen. After a delightful ride from Fort George, I took up my quarters at Forsyth's Hotel, and remained there during three weeks. I made daily and hourly excur- sions to the Falls ; yet, every time I viewed them, there appeared something new in the landscape. Indeed, nothing surprised me more than the variety of views which may be NIAOARA FALLS. a2}> obtained. It is uiitbrtunate that the geological description of the rocks at the Falls given by Captain Basil Hall and Mr. Bakewell, and which have been copied into books on Geo- logy, are so erroneous as to give a wrong impression on the subject. Those gentlemen have omitted any mention of the sandstone rock which forms the basis of the formations, and which rises fifty feet above the level of the basin into which the river is precipitated. In most places this sandstone is hidden from viev; by the debris of the lime- stone rock from above ; there are, however, several situations — at Cioat Island, and on the Canadian side, where an accurate obsciver can- not fail to notice it. The soft and crumbly nature of the sandstone rock renders it easily washed out by the river ; the limestone shale, which is situated above it, crumbles by the action of air and moisture, and then the stratum of limestone, superincumbent on the shale, losing its support, falls down, and thus the cataract gradually recedes. The pheno- menon of the Falls evidently depends on the circumstance of the cataract having sufficient force to remove the blocks of limestone from the face of the sandstone rock. Where this is z I' ill i ' ! !l if ! , . 1. H n 330 NIAGARA FALLS. '/:,)'■ I Ml not the case, the masses of limestone form a talus or slope which defends the sandstone from the attacks of the torrent ; the shale and limestone being then supported, the pheno- menon of the retrocession of the Falls does not take place. This fact may be very clearly observed in what is called the American Fall, where, the portion of the river which falls over not having sufficient power to remove the blocks of limestone at the base, the falls are stationary. There is also a slight inaccuracy in the accounts published of the height of the two falls. It is usually asserted that the American Fall is higher by eight or ten feet than the Horseshoe Fall. This would be the fact if the river fell into the basin ; but if my observation was correct, none of the water at the American cataract falls direct into the basin. It descends upon the talus of rock, and thence passes to the basin. I should suppose, from a cursory examination, that the height of the American Fall was not so great as the other by thirty feet. But it is no wonder that mistakes have been made by observers ; and we believe that none but a geologist would be sufficiently collected, amid the wonders of the scene, as to notice these few and trivial tl \ NIAGARA FALLS. 331 points. The geological structure of the Falls is, however, an object of some importance, and when notic ::d, it should be done correctly. We stood on the Table Rock — we heard the thunder of the cataract — we beheld the volu- minous clouds of mist eternally rising — we viewed the tempestuous tossing of the mighty waves in the basin — we gazed on the Rainbow of Niagara, which is unequalled in beauty — and tb 1 said. We are content. There is but one Niagara — nothiig can equal its beauty — nothing can surpass its sublimity. I \l 5 '-I (JN THE NATURAL BOUNDARIES OK EMPIRES; AX ESSAV TO SHEW THE EFFECT OF THK GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE Or THE EARTH ON THE POLITICAL . BOUNDARIES OF NATIONS. BY r. FINCH, Esq., Cor. Mem. Nat. Hist. Soc. Montreal; Lit. 4 Hisf. Soc. yialxc Hon. Mem. West Point Lyceum ; Delaware, West Chc-ter, itc.f&c. m ^ , 1; 4: i ,iP C O N T E N T S. Cliapter I'.iu I. Iiitroductiou l]',i7 II. (Jeneral Remarks ,'i3S III. Rivers ;M(; IV. Bsasiu of .-Ivers 353 V Seas and Oceitus -loo VI. Lakes 35H VII. Mountain Ranges ------- 3')U VIII. Mountains in Groups ;i(>(i IX. Mountains in the Interior 3().S X. Single mountains ■• 3H^ XI. Forests 37 i XII. Deserts 37'i XIII. Natural Kingdoms or States . - - . ,'i7s XIV. Large Natural Kingdoms ;jS'» XV. Small Natural Kingdoni> -'JS i XVI. Oppression of Small Natural Kingdoms - 3!: ! ■ ■ li ' jj ' / 1 ' 1 1 ' 1 1 i ' 1 H 1 1 ('Iinptcr XXTI. XXI II. XXI v^ XXV. XXVl. XXVII. XXVIII. XXIX. XXX. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. CONTENTS. I'agr nouudaries of Pt'niusulas 108 On the Cause of Natural Bonndariert - - 4^1 Objections to 'Dieory - - - - - - U<) Power of Man over Boundaries - - - lU' Boundaries of Savage or Civilized Hacdh of Men - - - - 121 Influence of Internal Comuiunications - 122 Effect of (jovernments on Boundaries - 12.") Internal Divisions of a Country - - - 180 Choice of Residence 182 Power of Nations 184 Boundaries of Great Britain - . . - 18.") Boundaries of United States of America J 40 On War 448 Use of War - 4nii Conclusion 4o4 121 12.-) VU \:i'y 14(1 44.S 4'>o 4;i4 CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. Let us ascertain for all nations the laws by which their political boundaries are governed. 'J n i|- I' 1 } l,:l jiif ( liHH ) CIl A PTRll 11 GENERAL REMARKS. Th/ limits of empires are controlled by two causes : — the physical geography of the soil, and the power of man ; the first is eternal, the last variable ; thus, in examining history, we find that the first produces the n.ost per- manent effect. Nations often war against those eternal limits which are pointed out by nature. The Turks and Persians have, in modern times, renewed the ancient contest between the Romans and Parthians, and have fought for several centuries without gaining one square mile of territory. The ancient Grecians fought for a thousand years, and their small republics, at the termination of the contest, retained their original boundaries. England and France have amused them- selves by wars which may continue till the end of time, without joining under one sceptre 1 ; '«1 OKNKHAL IlKMARKS. ;{.«) the vineyards of Burgundy and tlie merry valleys of England. Alexander invaded the East, but lie could not enlarge the political confines of Macedon. Bonaparte subdued Europe, but France is not more extensive. Tamerlane overcame Asia ; but it was not in his power to unite the fire-worshipers of Persia with the sons of Confucius ; nor could he join under one empire the shepherds of Tartary and the agriculturists of India. When these phantoms of i; iv^rsal empire perish, nations resume tlieir anc./nt limits; conquer, exterminate, destroy the memory of their existence as a people, stil' the new king- dom will have the same lim-'s as the old. A nation subduing those by whom it is sur- rounded, resembles a river overflowing its banks ; the flood gradually subsides, and the stream returns to its ancient channel. When successive hordes of barbarians in- vaded the dominions of imperial Rome, did they unite the frozen regions of the North with the olive-gardens of the South ? When England was conquered successively by the Romans, Saxons, Danes, Normans ! did they surround with one rampart Italy, Saxony, Denmark, Normandy, and England ? 2 H '2 I a. i| 'I 'i 1 t j 340 ORNKRAL REMARKS. The decisions of nature soon cut asunder the artificial arrangements of man. To acquire a true knowledge of the history of nations, we must study the physical struc- ture of the soil ; for this is the leading feature on which historical details are always depend- ent. Mountains, seas, rivers, lakes, deserts, form natural divisions on the surface of the earth which serve as houndarics to the several empires. Not in the contest between nations as on the varied table of the chess-board, where there are no natural defences, and a plain field of battle lies before the friendly combatants. On the world, the natural barriers between nations restrain them when prosperous and inclined to invade their neighbors; and serve as a protecting shield in adverse fortune. Of the various duties which devolve upon independent nations, two are very difficult to perform. First, to preserve their independence when attacked. Second, to abstain from con- quest when the opportunity is apparently pre- sented. In the performance of these duties, the struc- ture of the earth offers facilities to the virtue and the valor of nations. To impress these facts on the mind, read an OKNKKAI. HKMAHKS, :MI account of the I)ounclaries of any nation of an- cient or modern time. Let us take Casar's description of (he limits of tlie Helvctii : " Undique loci natura Helvetii contiiientur ; unii ex parte, fluminc llheno, latissimo atque altissimo, qui agrtmi Helvetium a Germanis dividit ; altera ex parte, nionte Jura altissimo, qui est inter Scquanos et IJelvetios; terti^, lacu Lemano et flumine llhodano, qui provinciam nostram ab Hoive- tiis dividit." Jul. Caes. Com. Examine a map of the kingdoms of the world, as they were arranged a thousand years ago, and one of the present time ; you will find the great political divisions nearly alike. In an historical chart, although the divisions do not correspond to the relative size of na- tions, they afford some guide as to their in" crease or decrease of dominion. We may there perceive how durable is the force of these barriers. When we compare the duration of con- quests with the existence of nations, we then view the decided effect of natural boundaries. When extensive conquests are made, these boundaries appear to be extinct, but they still remain ; although overpowered by force, they 11 ii r^ r!i I .'M2 (JKNKRAI. HKMAIIKS. r. 4 i<: I are never destroyed, and only wait the proper j)criod to develop tlieir power. Fortunate for man they exist, or the world would exhibit one general scene of desjmtisin. Never was one of the race of contpicrors a friend to the best interests of man. Seldom were victories gained from motives of hu- manity. The consuls of Rome, after conquering Greece, declared it, for a single moment, free, but instantly recollected themselves, and pre- tended that the establishment of quaestors and lictors, and a few Roman legions, would con- tribute to the happiness of that people. The splendor of conquests generally blinds us in regard to their permanent result. The conquests of Sesostris were scarcely recognized beyond the march of his army. Twenty times, according to the assertion of Malte Brun, have the tribes of the elevated regions of Asia sallied down on the natives of the plains, and subverted the thrones over the whole continent — but the political divisions of Asia are very similar at the present day to those of its first colonization. Nor of much importance, by what title nations hold possession of their foreign do- I) f. I )L'r w OKNKRAI. KKMAKK8. IHH minions — Iiy purcliasc or con(juest, i)y Traucl or force, by peace or war, by succession or alliance. Nature compels tlieir disunion. Normandy was conferred on the brave J)uke Hollo by the Frank King Charles ; when En- gland was conquered, the union of the two kingdoms continued a short time. When we read an account of the conquests of Alexander tlie Great, we are apt to imagine that such mii^hty acliievements, such splendid conquests, must have continued for ever — on turning over the following page of history, we ascertain that his successor reigned only two years. Then came the struggle of the nations to form separate States, which, after a war of thirty years in duration, was happily effected. Conquerors, after traversing the earth, sub- duing nations, have often recognized the force of these natural boundaries, and have divided their empire among their sons, according to true natural lines of demarcation. Charlemagne, after uniting France, Italy, Germany, under his temporary sway, esta- blished that division of his States which has remained to the present time. Napoleon, the ambitious Napoleon, per- ceived the force of this law. When victory had placed at his disposal many of the finest H !>f !lil m ■ i I'l" \n :iu GKNERAL REMARKS. regions of Europe, he did not attempt, except in a few instances, to unite them to France — he placed his relations and friends on the va- cant thrones, trusting to their personal friend- ship, and to poHtical reasons, for assistance in war. At other periods, how often has the funeral cry which arose at the tomb of the warrior king been the signal for the dismemberment of his empire ! When victorious troops are poured into a country, they gradually coalesce with the origi- nal inhabitants. The scenes of nature impress them with irresistible force, and they soon begin to understand this sentiment. The independence of nations should be the first law of the world. How often have wars terminated in the " statu quo ante bellum.'* Look at the wars of the French Revolution ! Europe was in arms from the Pillars of Hercules to the Uralian Mountains ; from Cape Rover in the Hebrides to the shores of the Bos- phorus I Twenty millions of soldiers march- ed to tile battle-field ! Ten millions perished in combat, or in the hospitals ! Every mo- narch dethroned ! Every capital seized by a foreign concjueror ! A thousand fields of (IKNRRAL HKMARKS. :i4:> battle stained with the blood of a hundred various nations ! What result from so much noise, tumult, battles, sieges, skirmishes, truces, treaties ? At the concluding treaty, each mo- narch retained his original dominions, with a few trivial exceptions. There must be some cause for such a result ! That cause we proceed to investigate. The barriers erected bv nature between communities of men vary in strength. Let us examine them in the following order. 4 1 1 !kl m : I r .1 'il I if I fl,il \^\ It -' ( :m ) CHAPTER HI. RIV£RS. In the first ages of man, rivers are a true boundary ; they prevent the passage of armies. They are now used as a boundary, chiefly be- cause they afford a definite line, about which there can be no dispute. Europe, Asia, Australia, Africa, America, present numerous examples. A singular tlici; takes place in regard to them. A small stream is a better division between nations than a large river. The Rubicon, and not the Po, was the boundary of ancient Rome. The Pruth would not form a line of de- marcation between Russia and Turkey, but there is a scanty population on its banks. France has fought to obtain the boundary of the Rhine. She laust now either advance to the mountains beyond, or retire to the next range of hills in her present territory. ! UIVKRS. Ml \ I The reason of this law is obvious. The fertile banks of large rivers ?re usually peopled by numerous tribes of men ; the cr.lm and tranquil surface of the river invites them to cross over ; the interests of commerce keep up a continual intercourse ; the river is easily passed, and both banks will speedily unite under one government. Never have the Ganges, the Nile, the Dan- ube or the Khine seen hostile nations with firm possession of their opposite shores. The small stream which divides Spain and Portu- gal, is a more lasting boundary than the Tagus would be, if it flowed in the same direction. " Where Lusitiuiia and her sister meet, Deem ye what bounds the rival realms divide? Or ere the jealous queens of nations greet, Doth Tayo interpose his mighty tide ? Or dark sierras rise in craggy pride ? Or fence of art, like China's vasty wall ? — No barrier-wall ! no river det^p and wide ! No horrid crags ! nor mountains dark and tall ! Rise like the rocks that part Hispania's land from Gaul. " But there betwcou a silver streamlet glides. And scarce a name distinguisheth the brook, Though ri\'al kinjrdouis press its verdant sides." There is no f^* "mi ion more general, and more i ^ ' t li I aiH RIVKKS. erroneous, than that of hxri^c rivers IbijKJig Ji boundary to nations. It is wrong- to vex a peaceful river with armed garrisons upon its banks. It is no less wrong in a political j)oint of view. Numerous forces will be stationed on the shores by either party, and collisions must necessarily ensue. They also afford so easy a communication, that numerous custom-officers must be engaged in active service. The river, instead of favor- insr commerce, becomes an annoyance tc both parties. The Nile never formed a boundarv, even in the intestine wars which desolated Egypt. Hostile armies sometimes encamped on oppo- site shores, but the contest was always con- tinued until one was defeated. When two powers, of nearly equal strength, have been in Egypt at the s?me time, the line of demarca- tion has generaii', been across the Nile ; one possessing Upper, the other. Lower Egypt. The late contest between the Emperor of Hrazil and the Republic of IJuenos Ay res, arose from an erroneous opinion on the part of the former, that the river La IMala was the true boundarv. ( I 1',. i! HIVKKS. ;Mt) Peru was formerly I>ouiitlod on the soulli by a river. Inca YupaiHjui, sovereign of that country, sent his generals, with an army of fifty thou- sand men, to sul)due the countries to the south. They were opposed by an army of eighteen thousand warhke Chiban Indians. Three battles ensued on three successive days, com- mencing very early on each morning, and leaving off late at night. Never did Chilian valor glow with more ardent fire ! never did IVrnvian courage shine with more resplendent light ! During this time, more than half the soldiers of either army were killed, and nearly all the rest wounded. On the fourth day, those generals of the Inca who were left alive, called a council of war, and resolved on being content with the river Miauli as a boun- dary. In ancient time, a contest took place be- tween the Sicari and Albatians respec-ing a river which separated those nations. Not being fully aware of the importance of preserving its chaiuiel, it had wandered in the fields, chosen a new j)ath, and large sand-banks were formed. These were violently contested. On(; pleaded ancient jurisdiction; the other the gift of the river. A furious war arose, and 1 Mi' ! I ^11 f 3.')0 IlIVKRS. 1 ■• Jf r . ^ i, was only terminated by both parties being subdued by some neighboring power. The uncertainty of jurisdiction over the river Delaware has given rise to a collision of interests which may continue as long as the waters shall flow, unless happily terminated by treaty. Some newly-formed islands in this river, though in a civilized country, have never had any government, because it was uncertain to which State they belonged. In support of the general fact assumed, we will adduce the following quotation : " New Jersey is separated from the two adjoining States by riveis. However definite these may be as territorial limits, they operate by their facilities of navigation, rather as bonds of union, than as divisions of the people in their vicinity from those of the adjoining States. Ilence the citizens of East and West Jersey have diff'erent views and feelings on almost every question of public interest." The ^*-*--. of New York claims not only the sovereignt3' of the Hudson, but also the shore of New Jersey, between high and low water- mark. It is claimed as a monarchical gift. No monarch, however despotic, could confer a right so contrary to all natural limits. The Governor of New York, content with the RIVERS. li't I magnificent river, shonid forget to claim that amphibious tract of land, which has been sub- ject to so many disputes. The French are apparently partial to river boundaries. In the time of the Revolution, they claimed Hie Po as a boundary towards Italv. ft/ Rivers are a bad military line in time of war. Thousands of instances may be adduced where they have been chosen as strong military positions, but they have generally deceived their possessors. Taya was not so good a barrier against the Scots as the Roman Wall. The Rhine was a military boundary against the ancient Germans, but could not have been against a civilized power. The Romans defended the line of the Dan- ube a few years against the savage tribes of the North, but at length retired to the true barrier of the Pannonian Alps, leaving the interval a desert. Rivers are more an apparent than a real ob- stacle. This may be accounted for in the following manner : Men are accustomed to see fish in a river. But. When, instead of beautiful pike or sturgeon, tb y see armed men rise from the bosom of the waters, sur- 'i % • i f !l h t s I' a;V_> RIVKRS. prise overcomes tliciii, they tlirow down their arms and run away. Do not blame tliem. Rather blame fortune, or any thing rather than blame brave men. Place them in a favorable situation, and they will fight nobly and well. Vi I m ^'1 m it! I> 4 \-' .1 •4 ■n nr H iH, .;i ir 1. II (3 ( .].-.:< ) c n A p r h\ II I V. BASIN OF niVERH. A State is powerful if she possesses the whole extent of the basin from whence the waters flow to supply her rivers. New York has great national strength, because she claims the sovereignty of the river Hudson and nearly the whole country to the north, on both shores, without any interfe- rence. Connecticut, in a similar mode, possesses the basin of her principal river for some dis- tance. 2 c t| h ': 'K it ( •'*••'» ) C H A P r E [{ V. SEAS AND OCEANS. Happy the country whose l)oiiiulary is the ocean ! Who is tliere that does not wish to say he has seen the map^nificent sea? It forms an important period in the imaginative history of every man. He is not truly unfortunate who can say he has seen the ocean, and he not truly blest, though possessing every luxury of life, who has not yet beheld it. Besides, it is useful in a commercial point of view. Happy would it be for all nations if the ocean would rise with storm and with tempest against ships of war; and tranquil seas and favoring gales were reserved for honest merchant-ships and gaily-painted plea- sure yachts ! Then. When the land was in- fested with war, each one, who was peacefully inclined, might advance to the shore and em- bark in his yacht, with a plentiful store of pro- visions and wine, sail about on the tranquil surface of the ocean, and return to the land t » 8KAS AND OCRANS. .1')'> when the war was over. Less tyranny would be practised. 'I'lie independence of nations would lie much promoted. Some nations dread the water. The ocean is a boundary they never attempt to pass. To others it presents a temptation to concpicst. The facility with which naval empires are Ibunded is a most striking" phenomenon, e(jual- led only by the rapidity of their overthrow. The example of the Portuguese may be no- ticed. They visited India as merchants. In- vaded as conquerors. Terror of their arms spread from Ganges to Mozambiqua. Armies brave. Cities strong. Allies appeared faithful. Faithful as Bavarians. Portuguese statesmen considered their Indian empire placed on a strong foundation. The appearance oi" the Hollanders with their fleets in the Indian ocean soon changed the face of affairs. They did not take the trouble to assault every castle, to besiege every town, to invade every pro- vince; but they captured the ships by which those were supplied, and the foreign Portu- guese empire fell.* The Gods of the Hindoos once more assem- bled on the sacred banks of the Ganges. Fires of joy illumined every hill-top of Persia and Ilindoostan, and the gloomy waves of the 2 c 2 IJ •i!'' I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) Zk ^ A A its J ^m^.r u.. u.. ^ e 1.0 I.I 1^128 12.5 150 "^^^ Md^B £«.■ 1^ lllll^ 1.8 L25 III 1.4 ill 1.6 ^' e n % /: %, # ^ , .i> > y /A Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ 350 SEAS AND OCKANS. .'J V I 1.', :■ Iri ' ' u i river Alfara shone with unaccustomed light. This truth was proclaimed to all nations upon earth. The laws under which any people choose to remain are far dearer to them than the finest political institutions conferred by the sword of the conqueror. Should, however, any one imagine, during a single moment of time, that the Hollanders undertook their expeditions to India from com- passion to the unfortunate natives, they would be greatly mistaken. They had warred with the Portuguese for many years in Europe, when, hearing that some of that people were in India, they went there to kill and capture as many as they could. War ! said the great captain of his age. War is the trade of barbarians. The whole art consists in assembling a force superior to your adversary. This can be accomplished by a great naval power. She is thus enabled to seize, to her ov/n detriment, on small de- tached portions of the world, and on large empires which have not arrived at full power, or have become imbecile and weak from age. This is easy to a maritime power, because most countries can be approached by sea. I m SKAS AND OCEANS. ^51 Nature has made iew impervious coasts. She intended that man should make use of the ocean. This produces the anomalous sight of countries the most distant under one sceptre. England owes her immense power to the facility of transporting her force upon the ocean. With a moveable army of ten thou- sand soldiers, she has acquired dominion over one hundred millions of people. ' i N Hill Ri 'I J ( :J')S ) ^r UU CHAPTER VI. LAKK S. " fjands, intersected by a narrow fritb, Abhor each other." W\i 1 .'*'t ' ii^i • I) V. t Lakes vary in their power upon the boun- daries of nations, according as, in size and shape, they resemble rivers or seas. Lake Champlain has already created a State. It will in time create an empire. The North American lakes form a good natural boundary between the United States and Canada. Nations vie with each other in humanity. Five times have the Americans passed the Lakes to free the Canadians from colonial bondage. Five times have the English passed the Lakes to free the Americans from their double government. All these expeditions have been unsuccessful. May all future simi- lar expeditions of the two powers be attended with the same success ! i i ( 3;>i) ) )oun- and )tate. good tates y- 1 the onial assed their tions simi- inded CHAPTER Vll. MOUNTAIN-RANGES. " Mouutiuus iutorposed, Miiko enemies of nations which had else, Like kindred drops, been melted into one." They form a permanent and frequent boundary. They vary in power to restrain nations within proper limits, according to their breadth and altitude ; but, on the whole surface of the earth, they form a real barrier. An individual ascends a mountain, but he returns to dwell in the valley. The peasant of every country seldom ascends the hill which overlooks his native plain. Of all who live within sight of the Blue Mountain, not one in a thousand has ever visited its summit. These were ambitious natives of the plains, but even they could not establish a permanent residence. We travelled a hundred miles to place our hand upon the summit of the mountain ; having done so, )i# M ii .1 ;j<)() MOUNTAIN-RANGRS. HI m^ ' ajt^l 'm v' > I ) 1 I; ■ ■. I i if 'it our curiosity was gratified, and we retired, leaving the mountain unscathed. Still does he proudly, nobly, rear his head toward the skv. Mountains are, on several accounts, good boundaries between nations. Numerous bodies of troops cannot, without a great expense, be supported on their summits. Nations, to whom they serve as barriers, are content with placing a few sentinels on the frontiers. If mountains were always boundaries, wars would be less frequent. The difficulty of marching to combat would often compel am- bitious men to pause. The armies of France have not so often crossed the Pyrennees and Alps in search of conquests as they have invaded the valleys of the Rhine and the Netherlands. The Andes form a natural barrier to the States on the western coast of South America. One of the most disastrous military expeditions perhaps ever recorded, was that under Gonzalo Pizarro, in which this circumstance was dis- regarded. The range of highlands between the New- England States and Canada is a more certain boundary than the St. Lawrence. / n MOUNTAIN-RANGES. .'<0I A small territory in New Jersey exemplifies the difference between rivers and mountains, as boundaries of nations. It consists of a tract of land, about thirty miles long, and two or three miles wide. It forms the Ultima Thule of the State towards the north, and is situated between the Blue Mountains and the river Delaware. The natives of this section belong to New Jersey by political arrange- ment, but are completely excluded from it by the Blue Mountains, which are near a thou- sand feet high. The other part of the State would have been almost ignorant of their ex- istence, but they have recently petitioned the legislature to open a road of communication with their fellow-citizens to the south. All the trade of the district is carried on, across the river, with Pennsylvania. The most philosophical treaty of peace, in relation to boundaries, ever recorded in his- tory, was that between North Carolina and Tennessee. Their boundary being undeter- mined, they agreed that the highest ridge of the Appalachian chain should form the boun- dary line. Commissioners were appointed to take the altitude of the several ranges; and, the highest being ascertained, both parties ac- quiesced in the result. In other parts of the :}(»2 MOUNTAIN-UANOKS. 'it ) I ;:'i ( 1^ 4^ , ) i ? ! I :f'*i 1 'i ■<': ( world, rather than have made such a treaty, they would iiave covered every hill willi wounded, and have filled every valley with slain. On viewing the map of Europe, we might suppose that ancient Scandinavia, from its com- pact figure, should form one kingdom. The range of mountains interposed between Nor- way and Sweden presents an insuperable obstacle. Their present union will not continue. A Norwegian will agree in opinion with the native of any other country upon earth, rather than with a Swede. Fears have been entertained that France and Spain would be united under one empire ! Europe was in arms many years to prevent it ! The Pyrenees have made it impossible. The union of Russia and Siberia is dreaded ! When Siberia possesses a large population, she will no longer be under the dominion of Russia. The Uralian Mountains are inter- posed. On the Influence of Mouniain-Ranges. The natives of the opposite sides of moun- tain-ranges seldom agree in opinion. \ MOUNTAIN-UANOKS. lUili \ This may be accounted tor in the following manner: tlie sun never shines equally on the two sides of a mountain at the same time. A riative of the north looks upon the moun- tain, and beholds it enveloped in shade. A native of the south beholds it resplendent with light, and all the landscape enlivened with the rays of the sun. How can two individuals who see the same object in such different points of view, ever think alike on any subject ? Again. The temperature of the air is al- ways different. A native of the south, visiting the country to the north, shivers with cold, while all around him are gay, lively, and happy. How can people, who feel so differently in the same climate, ever be friendly subjects of one government ? There is a shield placed on the summit of every mountain ; one half is painted white, the other is painted black ; the people on the op- posite sides look upon the same shield, but cannot agree as to its color. The effect of this has been perceived in the councils of the United States. In Pennsylvania, we have been informed by a member of Legislature, that, on many (jues- I ;■ !'ii ' i'-M '! ri. ' 'l t ;«j| MOUNTAlN-llANGKb. tions, the opinions of the members are known from their residence on the east or west of the mountains. The same fact is confirmed as respects Virginia, by the author of " Letters from the South." "The mountain called the Blue Hidge forms not only the natural, but the political division of Virginia. That on the cast is called Old Virginia ; on the west, New Virginia. The natives of these several terri- tories occasionally exhibit hostile feelings to- wards each other. "All the large States, to the south of New York inclusive, have two distinct and separate local interests, or, rather, states of local feeling. The eastern and western sections of these States are continually at variance. The west is generally the most extensive as well as fruit- ful, and is gradually moving^ the seat of power further in the interior." During a war with the Southern Indians, the Governor of a State issued an order for the militia to serve six months. There is this difference between a regular army and the militia of all countries. Implicit obedience is the law of the first. With the militia, that part of the man which still re- mains a citizen, discusses the legality of the orders received, before he allows the other ' MOUNTAIN 11 ANCIKS. .Hi tit part, vvhicli is a soldivr, eitlu'r to inarcli or to figlit. Previous to tliis excellent arrangement, the soldier, rushing to battle, involved his comrade, the |)eaceable citizen, in extreme tri- hidation and tear. Accordingly, the militia, who were encamp- ed, assembled to give their opinion of the j)ro- clamation. One part considered the order good, and were ready to obey on peril of their lives. The other considered it illegal, and refused obedience. On incpiiry, it was found that all who es- poused one opinion lived to the south of the mountains. Those of the contrary opinion lived to the north. Here were individuals — of the same State — whose education was very similar — the order was plain, concise, free from ambiguity. The historian remarks that the mountains forming an extensive range in the centre of the State is unfavorable to unity of sentiment amongst the Tennesseans. The same remark may be applied to every State, Province, Kingdom, and Empire of the world. I ) i' li i: ;1 ',1 ( :un, ) C il A V'Vl] n VIM. MOUNTAINS IN GROUPS. Where mountains arc placed together in groups, with intervening valleys that arc sus- ceptible of cultivation, a difierent rule obtains as to their boundary. It will then be found not at the summit of the first chain, nor at its base, but extends into the surrounding country in every direction. The natives of these districts resemble the garrison of a fortress, who not only command the fortifications and the interior town, but also the resources of the country to a distance of several miles. Thus the mountaineers of Switzerland are not content with the rugged summits and the picturesque valleys of the Alps, but have conquered and retain Neuf- chatel, le Pays de Valais, the city and territory of Geneva. The mountaineers of Caucasus compel the payment of tribute from their neighbors. The towns in their vicinity are fortified with gates MOUNTAINS IN GROUPS. :urt or iron, l)iit tliry tViglitcii tlic good citizens intv; most perK'Ct siilmiissioii. No individual could formerly reside within twenty miles of the mountains of Scotland unless he would suhmit to contribution. The demands of the King at llolyrood might he evaded, but the Kings of the IJighlands it was imi)ossil)le to escape. il K f ( .ids , I: CH A PTEIl IX. h ' If Pi i ' ^ : ■If N h I ■ CIJ A PTKIl XIII. NATURAL KINGDOMS OB STATES. The surface of the Earth is thus separated into certain natural divisions, which mav be called Natural Kingdoms. Every island is a Natural Kingdom. Every part of the world, surrounded by strong natural boundaries, is a Natural Kingdom. It is impossible to conquer one half of these divisions. In waging war with them, you must complete a total conquest, or return. No army could conquer half China. The Tartars and Chinese once made a treaty of partition. Nature declared its execution to be impossible. Nor could the plains of England be divided between two kings. Canute and Edmond drew an imaginary line through the centre. The treaty could not be observed. When nations occupy parts of natural king- doms, they must advance or retire. The kingdom of Prussia must be rounded k;. NATURAL KINGDOMS OR 8TATKS. HV.) !)y new ac(|uisitions, or she must. recede. This is the re; 1 son why the Eatile of Prussia liokls a sword in each arm. Wliy the nation is con- stantly armed. If we examine attentively the map of Eu- rope, we perceive that Great Britain, France, Spain, Holland, Switzerland, Bavaria, Den- mark, Sweden, Austria, are natural kingdoms. Norway has always been in vassalage, be- cause her population is much scattered. Turkey, Asia Minor, and Egypt, are joined by the power of a fleet, as they were under the Greek Empire. Persia has its ancient limits. China has had the same from time imme- morial. The Arabs conquered the world, but now cultivate the same quantity of sand originally given to their care. Hindostan is a natural Empire, too weak to defend herself. America is arranged almost in natural di- visions. Thus, on the surface of the world, man has done nothing to change the decrees of that Almighty Power whose fiat governs the uni- verse. ■1^^ lii. i; Il ( .'WO ) (1 i' I k il CIIAl'TER XIV. LARGE NATURAL KlNQDOMfl. When natural kingdoms have a certain size, it is difficult to conquer them. Nothing but the fury of religious dissension could have subjected Bohemia, with her circular rampart of mountains, to a foreign power. We should like to see a King of Bohemia. J; ^, ir ;\ 1 } 1- I'l- m 1 ■ I ■ ii (. ••*«' ) CHAPTER XV. •■tfi »^ 't ertain )thing I have mpart hould SMALL NATUHAL KINODOMS. Small natural kingdoms in the vicinity of those which are larger, often lose their inde- pendence. Small islands are always subdued. No one could now unfurl the standard of Empire on the island of Jthaca, or become King of the Fortunate Islands. The properties of the atmosphere must have changed, for it now refuses to support the pennon of a small potentate. It has been attempted. Without success. Within the last thirty years, an individual tried to establish an Empire on the island of Fernando Noronha. He declared himselT at peace with all nations. Not sufficient. He should have formed an alliance, or sent a few puffin feathers, or half a seal-skin, the produce of his island, as a present, and acknowledged fealty to some foreign power. For want of this precaution, the crew of the first merchant- '« » ']\ IV. .'i8'2 SMALL NATURAL KINUDOMS. : 1 % I '' 4- ';i i . , :1 U; ship which sailed that way deposed the Sove- vereign, and put an end to his dominion. We see this rule exemplified in the history of Great Britain. The British Isles contain five natural king- doms ; England, Cornwall, Wales, Scotland, Ireland. Wars took place among the Saxon monarchs during four hundred years, uutil the valleys of England were united under one King. She then united to herself the smaller natural king- doms, by which she is surrounded, in the order of their respective strength. Central England now governs the Duke- doms of Cornwall, Wales, and Scotland — the Kingdoms of Man, Ireland, and Staffa. France has conquered the smaller divisions of Navarre, Franche Compt6, Lorraine. Denmark Proper has usurped the islands of Funen, Zealand, and Fairstar. The powerful empire of Austria has subdued the smaller divisions by which she is sur- rounded. Florida is another example. The language of the American negociator sounded harsh to the monarch of Spain, when he asserted, that a small territorial division, like Florida, could not remain either as a colony or independent, SMALL NATURAL KINGDOMS, ;i8;i in the immediate vicinity of the United States ; but the sentiment was perfectly accordant to facts, which have occurred in the history of all times, of all nations, and of all political mo- rality. The powerful State of New York comprises within her dominion, Staten Island and Nassau. The first would more properly come within the limits of New Jersey. The latter should form an independent State. Whose people, devoted to their farms, to hunt- ing, and fishing, might exclude all commerce from their shore. Seas full of fish, Woods full of game. Orchards full of peaches. Gardens full of roses. They may enjoy, The happiest life in the world. '1 1 ill !S! ( •i»4 ; l\ { 'f I, ?;'♦ CHAPTER XVI. OPPRESSION OF SMALL NATURAL KINGDOMS. Man in a small natural kingdom, has seldom his full political rights. It is scarcely possible he should rise to an equality of privilege with those who reside in the central, or larger divi- sion of territory, under the same sovereign. The noble of Castile considers himself more noble, than of any other province in Spain. A native of the centre of France is esteemed superior to those on the borders, and, in former time, paid a smaller amount of taxes. The form of government in the central nation, makes no difference in the sufferings of the dependencies. The natives of the Pays de Vaud suffered as much under the Swiss Can- tons, as the Greeks beneath the government of the Turks. The oppression under which Ireland groans, is more owing to her size and position, than to any innate love in the people of England for ii'-m OPPRESSION OF SMALL NATURAL KINGDOMS. m". misrule, though some may have supposed the latter to be the case. The oppression under which natives of small natural divisions of the earth labor, is great. Not so much the taxes they are compelled to pay, as the insult offered to their understand- ings, in asserting they cannot govern them- selves ! For although it may not always happen that a nation governs itself better than it can be governed by others, it always believes that it can. Every nation that possesses colonies, offers as an excuse, the great advantage they confer, by ruling them. Even the Sublime Porte considered the government conferred on the Grecians a great blessing, for which he demanded every para their purses could supply. And in addition expected to receive their most unbounded thanks. This reproach cannot be applied to the con- duct of England ; for in the majority of her colonies, she carefully instructs the people in the bright path of constitutional freedom. The only difficulty that has ever arisen between Great Britain and her colonies, has been from this circumstance. She never thinks their education complete ; they wish to ^ c free 2 E i. ii M ,■ \i :i\ 11 380 OPPRRSSION OF SMALL NATURAL KINGDOMS. w before the light of heaven has visited their eyes. An exception occurs to this rule when small kingdoms are situated between larger empires, unable to agree which shall possess them. Armenia preserved its independence for several centuries, not so much bv its actual strength, as because the mighty empires of Rome and Persia could not agree which should possess the dominion. Savoy in the same way preserves its inde- pendence, from its situation between France and Austria, ttk 'i ■ ! .If ( 'i^' ) heir mall ires, for tiial 5 of oukl nde- :inre CHAPTER XVTI. ADVANTAGES OF SMALL NATURAL KINGDOMS. Theue are some advantages to a native of these smaller divisions, for his interest is iden- tified in some degree with the larger empire. They deprive him of political rights, but they fight his battles on a magnificent scale. In the present state of the world, small communities must receive protection from the great and powerful. This may be exemplified by the following supposed case : Don, one of the smaller Hebridean Islands, contains five male persons. Let us they suppose they formed an empire having no political connexion with any other upon earth. An islander, disdaining the limits of his rocky home, and wishing to see the world, shall travel. And as he is the creature of our imagination, and is setting out alone and unfriended in the world, we will endow 2 E 2 1^ fl h ii M?" l!)i, :>-\ m Mi '■ ' '1 388 ADVANTAGES OF SMALL NATURAL KINGDOMS, him with the two best qualities of man, courage and generosity. Pie takes with him his sword to fight his way over the continent, and a few coins to give to the poor. He lands in France. The authorities of that coun- try, informed of his arrival, and alarmed at the report of his valor, send two regiments of soldiers who surprise him at night, when asleep, take from him his sword and his money, and subject him to imprisonment. Acting in this respect, quite contrary to the usual politeness and urbanity with which that gallant and amiable people hail the arrival of strangers. Escaping from prison, he would return home, and call his countrymen to arms. From their scanty resources a very difficult task. They might procure one old rusty musket, half a broad-sword, hacked with frequent use, two fish spears, one bow and arrow, and each would provide himself with a small club. Ha ! How unlike that instrument of fun and of mischief, wielded by a native of Emerald Isle. For a standard, they would use part of a ragged sail, bleached and torn by the dashing of the waves. They would be unable to pro- cure either a drum or trumpet, and to make war without those instruments of music, might ADVANTAGES OF SMALL NATURAL KIGDNOMS. 38H subject them to military execution in these enlightened times. They would ecjuip their largest fishing-boat, and sail for the coast of France. It is evident, when they attempted the con- quest of that mighty kingdom, they would be unable to succeed. They could neither obtain redress nor re- venge. Jn the most favorable circumstances, th^ utmost they would be able to accomplish, would be to capture a French fishing-boat, and put the crew to death. Mark the contrast ! Placed beneath th'i iEgis of British empire, should any wrong be done to one of these individuals, a thousand ships of war would sail, and a hundred thou- sand men would march, to avenge their quarrel. The natives of the central districts always pay a large amount of taxes, merely for the pleasure of keeping so many dependencies in subjection. The extra sums they pay, usually expended in war, may be of some advantage to the colo- nies. ':i '.: 1 n. i :l' "1 ■h ( im) ) CH A PTER XVIll. ON THE INFLUENCE OF GEOGRAPHICAL SHAPE ON THE BOUNDAUIES OF EMPIRES. ' I ^1 The Emperor observed the difficulty which arose in uniting Italy into one kingdom. He said, if the northern extremity had been placed by nature between Genoa, Sardinia, and Rome, Italy would have made a strong em- pire. In its present shape he was unable to accomplish their union. The gisrantic inhabitant of the Castle of Otranto can have no common interest with the native of Turin or Venice. The northern shore of Africa, extending tVom the Atlantic Ocean to the borders of Egypt, bounded on the north by the Mediter- ranean, on the south by the chain of Mount Atlas, is another instance of a country whose destiny is fixed by its shape. It could not be THE TIIK INFUKN'CE OF OKOORAFHR AI, iSIIAPK. ■V-H united under one governnient, except by a superior naval power, situated in tliose seas. This was accoiuplished. First. \ly the Carthaginians. Second. \]y the llouians. Third. JJv the wSaracens. In the intervening periods, it has always presented suiail isolated sovereignties. The western coast of South America is a narrow district of country extending between tlie Andes and the Pacific Ocean. It reseuibles in shape the northern coast of Africa, and cannot be formed into one empire. The genius of Bolivar will not be al)le to unite the destinies of Peru and Colombia. The central valley of Europe, bordering on the Danube, presents a district of country of great length in proportion to its breadth. Never has any conqueror, in ancient or modern time, been able to combine it under one government. It is now divided between the Emperors of Turkey, Austria, Havaria. The central valley of Africa, bordering on the Niger, bounded by the mountains of Kong and the tiesert of Zahara, resembles in its shape, the central valley of Europe, it is impossible to unite in one empire. U (: i They usually possess both sides of th(^ rivers. The cannon and kettledrum— the musket and trumpet — the hayonet and hullet — the life and the drum — will sometimes determine the limits of empires during short periods of time. not f' r e I: M ( 3m ) III I ■ : % ■I u( 1 ■: J \ m I ^'-!l CJIAPTER XX. ON IMAGINARY BOUNDARIES. Poets say that, in former time, the world was peopled by a happy, peaceful race, to whom war was unknown, and for whom con- fjuest had no charm. Should such a period of time again return, and that race of people re- visit the earth, we might then advise a different rule for the boundaries of empires. Nothing more would be necessary than to divide the surface into squares of nearly equal size, and place a nation in each. If they were fond of mathematical studies* which is not very probable, a variety of geo- metrical figures might be made, and a choice allowed. One nation might prefer to live in a circle, another in a square, and a third in a pentagon. Instead of fortresses mounted with cannon, the borders of nations might be traced by lines of rose trees — instead oi" garrisons breathing ON IMAGINARY BOUNDARIRS, ;ii)7 ^l defiance, and threatening death — the hyacinth and lily might point with their delicate flowers to the separate estates of nations. Each would diligently cultivate the part allotted to them, and no one doing another harm, all would do well. But. The nations who at present reside upon the earth, always attack their neighbors, and endeavour to wrest from them their pos- sessions. They are perpetually employed, either resisting the strong or oppressing the weak. It is scarcely necessary to add, the latter is their more favorite employment. A species of instinct, that we cannot too much detest and abhor, induces them to attack those who are weaker than themselves. Thus. Something more is necessary to re- strain the ambition of man than a mere arti- ficial line, even though it was ornamented with flowers. Some powerful obstacle is required to control the love of conquest and the love of plunder, which the human race, in their col- lective capacity, possess. It has been ascertained by experience that nothing restrains nations so eftectually within proper bounds as the difficulty or impossibility of passing beyond them. You might as well attempt to stop the ad- 1-1 n i. .•{})S ox IMA(iI.\ARY BOUMJAKIKS. ^^! i vancc ot" the ocean by a Vnm cliawii on the sand, as to k{'e|) nations witliin certain limits by lines drawn upon the surface of their terri- tory. If an individual is separated from us by a chain of mountains, a desert, or the ocean, we can understand why he may desire to live under a ditTerent system of laws, and form of government ; or the danger of attempting to subdue him takes away the desire. But. If his possessions are separated from ours by a mere imaginary line, ambition is excited. It is true, by their means, a nation may be formed very compact, and that is one great element of national strength, but not sufficient to counter- balance their various evils and disadvantages. For. As these artificial lines possess no inherent strength, they never stand the shock of war, and are speedily obliterated from the political map of the world. The Medes and Persians, after several years of war, drew an imaginary line on the plains of Media, as a boundary between the two Em- pires. It performed its office during a very short period. Historians cannot now point out its locality. The Wansdike was a similar line, between two Saxon Sovereigns of England. Now dest roved. * ■ fi ()\ IMAGIXAKY BOUXDARIKS. 'M)9 if J' f 1 y\ttrr centuries of war, tew artificial lines of demarcation appear in Europe. The longest iniaginarv line that we read of, was that drawn by Pope Gregory. It extended from the North to the South J^le, at a distance of one hundred miles to the west of the Azores. And was to separate the conquests of the King of Spain from those of the Sovereign of Por- tugal. Not the infallible power of St. Peter's suc- cessor, in\ested with nearly omnipotent strength, could preserve this boundary line. The ocean waves, indignant at an attempt to control their power, destroyed it so completely, that voyagers on the Atlantic have never been able to trace any signs of its existence. A similar line upon land would have had a similar fate. The difficulty concerning the boundary of the British Provinces and the State of Maine is about an imaginary line. It may console the people of that State for the loss of their territory, if tliey i. 't that the true natural line of demarcation . far south of that fixed by the King of the Nether- lands. The northern boundary of Delaware is part of the circumference of a circle, vvliose radius .0ii I ill ,i! .11 400 ON IMAGINARY BOUNDARIES. ;! I is twelve miles. Should the traveller be in- duced, by motives of curiosity, to visit this circular boundary of a State, he will be unable to distinguish the slightest elevation of ground —the soil on both sides is equally fertile — the air equally pleasant — he will be unable to discover what separates the descendants of Penn from the relatives of the Swedish King. The only boundaries of a similar form, men- tioned in history, are those of the free imperial cities of Germany. Being strong and powerful, they extended their sway, and their power was acknowledged, to a distance of one, two, or five miles from their walls. In time of war this usually happened. The citizens were forced into the train of one con- tending power, or were well pillaged by both parties. Draw upon the surface of the world a circle of such exact proportion, that even the Spirit of Archimedes, as he passes over the surface of the Earth, examining the mathematicians of the present day, will be pleased with its ap- pearance. Fill it with the human race, either French, Spaniards, or Englishmen ; Turks, Persians, or Arabians; Americans, Mexicans, or Children ON IMAUIXARY BOUXDARIKS. 401 of the Sun. Invest them with the right of peace and war, and, in a few years, this fair circle will only be preserved on some old oreo- graphieal map. The most clear, the best defined, the most regular parallelogrametrical Empire, ever made by the hand of ii skilful mathematician, is not so likelv to retain its boundary entire, as aii Empire with irregular, but strongly marked limits, formed by the rude hand of Nature. For all these reasons, in making future treaties of peace, or in fixing the boundaries of these Semi Sovereign States, called into exist- ence by the fiat of the American Congress, not the mathematician, but the geographer, or the individual who has the greatest knowledge of ihe country in dispute, should be consulted. *;,. 'M 2 P ( 402 ) CHAPTER XXI. ON FORTIFIED BOUNDARIES. 'fe'l ^ i iH . An artificial line, strongly fortified, if drawn without reference to natural divisions, pos- sesses little more inherent strength. Three Roman walls in the north of England, built at successive periods, and in different situations, did not answer the purpose of their founders. A Roman wall, which extended from the sources of the Rhine to the Danube, was only defended a few years. The Wall of China was built on a range of hills on the northern frontier of that celestial Empire. Of partial use. It increased the strength of the former natural boundary. ( I ■i; ■>; ( i<>-^ ; CHAPTER XXII. !.!•' awn pos- hree It at ons, rs. the only ^e of istial the HOUNOARIES OF PENINSULAS. When a peninsula affords room for a pow- erful nation, it should be under one govern- ment. We have given one or two instances in the preceding part of this Essay, which prove they are not exempt from those general laws, which influence territories of a different shape. The range of mountains between Norway and Sweden has prevented the union of that pen- insula. The extreme length of Italy has er«f- rated in a similar way. The people residing on the coasts of a pen- insula, have frequently more communication with foreign countries, than with the opposite shore of their own country. Yet their happiness is promoted under one government. Thev have then no domestic enemies to 2 F 2 ^L i ,i'J 4 •r T I !'l . ! M|i<' im 404 BOUNDARIK^ OF PENINSULAS. fear. All their energies can he directed, in case of war, against exterior foes. In the United States of America, are a suf- ficient number of instances to exemplify this part of the science of boundaries. New Jersey, united under one government, is divided from her step-sisters, New York and Pennsylvania, by rivers. The next peninsula to the south, is divided between Delaware, JNIaiyland, Virginia. The natives live under three distinct systems of laws. Not of much consequence ! The people near the southern cape, unhealthy during the autumnal season, resort at that period to the north. The variance of law thus becomes a practi- cal disadvantage. Before we express an opinion that Delaware should be enlarged, and comprehend the whole peninsula, it is evident many other considera- tions would present themselves. We mention it as theory. The empire of a peninsula should not ex- ceed its natural limits. To govern one large peninsula well, is as much as any people should be called on to per- form. BOUNDAIUKS OF PENINSULAS. 40.5 in The third territorial division of this shape, is Florida. Its boundary to the west is too extensive, and should not have passed the river Apalachicola. Alabama would then have an extent of coast proportional to her interior provinces. Florida, more compact, would have a better chance of goi. 'government. Michigan presents a iavorable specimen of territorial division. Instead of an artificial line between her possessions and the continent, one or two small rivers would have been preferable. Let us suppose that Kamtschatka was an independent empire. The natives of that country would then engage in three wars. 1. With the Bears. 2. With the Kurilese. 3. With the Chinese. With the first, the pleasure of reposing on the soft fur of those who were slain, would more than compensate the danger of the combat. The second would be easily defeated. And. If policy dictated, which it would not, pos- session might be taken of a few islands near the shore. The war with the C'hinese would occur Vt |i 40(> BOUNDARIES OF PENINSULAS. about once in seven years. But. As it takes a Chinese man a day to draw his sword, and a month to fire his matchlock, and recover from the fright it occasions him — they would not be very formidable enemies. The time of the Kamtschatdale would thus be pleasantly spent. He would fight two months of every year. He would farm, fish, hunt, plant and collect his harvest, during six months. And during the four winter months he would dance and sing in his subterranean house. Instead of this delightful life, he is unfor- tunately subject to an empire, which is three thousand miles long, and twelve hundred miles wide. When a rebellion occurs in Poland, or the Finns are in motion, the Kamtschatdale is compelled to march an immense distance from home ; no one ever hears of his valor, and he is liable to be run through with a lance twenty feet long. Unfortunate man ! May you soon have a King of your own, and thus possess self- government. ( '»«'7 ; C II A PIE II XXlil. ON THE CAUSE OF NATUUAL HOUNUARIES. \. 1 In Upper Lusatia in Germany, is a tribe of people descended from the good Saxons, who resisted with such true valor the armies of Charlemagne. They dress in skins. Dwell in tents. Lead a happy pastoral lite. And cordially pity those unfortunate people who are com- pelled to reside in towns. In the midst of Christian Europe, they re- tain their Pagan rites, and a grove of majestic oak trees, near the centre of their territory, is the object of religious adoration. They were formerly under the Electors of Saxony, who allowed them to pursue their own course without interference; having per- ceived the folly of any attempt to control them. In the exchanges of territory, during the year 1815, they were transferred to the juris- diction of Prussia. The monarch of that !i 1(18 ON TIlli: I'AIJSK .