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Thofe, which came in the way of our people, were dyed black, and planed fo fmooth, that * See Defcription of Kamtchatka. Rrr t they [ 486 ] they left no room to doubt of [the Americans] having alfo iron toolft- The Americans fail upon the fea in canoes made of ikins, in the fame manner as the Koriaki and the Tchutchi. * Their canoes are about two fathoms [14 feet] long, and about two feet high. The fore- part of thtm is fliarp j and they are flat-bottomed. Their inward frame confifts of fticks, which are linked together at both ends, and in the middle are preiled outwards, in a rounding [a belly], with crofs- fticks [which keep the fides at a proper diftancel. The fkms, which they are covered with, all around, feem to be thofe of fea-dogs, dyed of a cherry colour. The place where the Americans fit is round, about two arfhines [4 feet 8 inches] from the poop j there is fowed upon it the ftomach [of fome great fifii], which one may gather and loofen as a purfe, with the help of thongs of leather, pafled through fmall holes at the edge. An American, fitting in that place, ftretches his legs, and gathers round him the flomach [above-mentioned], that water may not fall into the canoe. With one oar, fome fathoms long, they row on both fides alternately, with fuch a pro- greffive force, that contrary winds are but a fmall hindrance to them ; and with fo much fafety, that they are not afraid to go upon the water, even whilil the fea rifes in terrible furges. On the contrary, they look with fome terror upon our larger veflels, when they are tofled, and advife thofe, who fail in them, to beware, left their vefl!els fiiould be overfet. This ^ * See the two figures, in ift vol. of the Defcription of Kamt- chatka, over agaiuft page 128, happened t 487 3 happened to the boat Gabriel, which, fome years fince, was going to cape Tchukotfki. As to the reft, their canoes are fo light, that they carry them with one hand. When the Americans fee [upon their coafts] people, whom they do not know, they row towards them, and then make a long fpeech : but it is not certain, whether this is by way of a fpell [or charm], or fome [particular] ceremony ufed at the reception of ftrangers : for both the one and the other are in ufe among the Kurilians. But before they draw near, they paint their cheeks with black lead, and fluff their noftrils with [fome] herb. When they have guefts, they appear friendly ; they like to converfe with them, and that in an amicable manner, without taking off their eyes from them : they treat them with great fubmiflion, and prefent them with the fat of whales, and with black lead, with which they ufed to befmear their cheeks, as was before obferved j doubtlefs from a notion, that fuch things are as agreeable to others, as they are to themfelves. With regard to the navigation about tbofe parts, it is fafe [enough] in fpring and in fummer ; but in autumn it is fo dangerous, that hardly a day palTes, but one has reafon to fear being fliipwrecked : for they [the Ruffians fent upon the fea expedition] ex- perienced fuch a violence of winds and llorms, that even perfons, who had ferved forty years at fea, af- fured, with an oath, that they never liiw fuch in their lives. The marks, by which they obferve there [in that fea] that land is near, are, particularly, the following confider- » [ 488 J condderable ones: i. When there appears a great quantity of different kinds of the [fo called] fea- cabbage, fwimming upon the water. 2. When one fees the herb, of which, at Kamtchatka, they platt tloaks, matts, and bags; for it grows only on the fea-lhores. 3. When there begin to appear, at fea, flights of fea-mews, as well as droves of fea animals, fuch as fea-dogs, and the like : for though fea-dogs have a hole open at the heart, which is called fora^ men ovaUy and a dudt called duSius arteriojus Botalli, and, upon that account, may remain long under water, and, confequently, go to fome diflance from the fhore, without danger, inafmuch as they can, at a greater depth, find food proper for them : never- thelefs, it has been obferved, that they feldom go farther than ten [German] miles from the fhore. The furefl fign, that land is near, is, when there are feen Kamtchatka beavers, which live only upon crabs, and, from the make of their heart, cannot be under water above two minutes [at a time] j confe- quently, they cannot get food at tne depth of 100 fa- thoms, or indeed at a much lefTer depth j upon which account, they alfo breed always near the fhore. It remains flill to fpeak of fome iflands nearefl to Kamtchatka, which are not found in a (Irait line with the above-mentioned, but north of them 5 efpe- cially of Berings illand, which now is fo well known to the inhabitants of Kamtchatka, that many of them go thither, to catch fea-beavers, and the like fea animals. That ifland extends from the fouth-eaft to the north-wefl, between ff and 60°. Its north-eafl end, which lies almofl diredly over-againfl the mouth of the , [489] the river Kamtchatka, is at about two degrees di- ftance from the eaflern (hore of Kamtchatka : and its fouth-eaft end is about three degrees from cape Kronotfki. This ifland is 1 65 verftes long j but its breadth is unequal. From the fouth-eafl end to a rock, which hangs perpendicularly over the fea, and is at 14 verftes diftance from that end, the breadth of the ifland is from 3 to 4 verfles : from that deep rock to Suiputchei bay, it is fverftes: from Suiput- chei bay to Beaver's fteep rock, it is 6 verftes: at Whale's-ftream, it is 5 verftes ; but from thence farther on, it grows gradually broader. Its greateft breadth [•u/z.], 23 verftes, is over-againft the north cape, which lies 1 1 j verftes from the above-men- tioned end. In general, it may be faid, that the length of that ifland is fo difproportioned to its breadth, that our author doubts, whether there can be, in other parts of the world, any iflands of fuch a fhape ; at leafl, he never heard nor read of any fuch : and he adds, that the iflands, which they faw about America, and all the rows of them, lying to the eaft, have the like proportion. This ifland confifts of a ridge of rocks, which is divided by many vaUies, that llretch to the north and to the fouth. Its mountains are fo high, that, in clear weather, one may fee them from about half the diftance between the ifland and Kamtchatka. The inhabitants of Kamtchatka, of old times, thought, that there muft be [fome] land over-againft the mouth of the river Kamtchatka, by reafon that [the fky] ap- peared there always cloudy, though it were never fo clear every-where elfe about the horizon. The [ 490 ] The higheft mountains [of the iflarid] do riot meafurc above 2 verftes in a perpendicular. [Here follows a defcription of this barren rocky ifland, of which the following four pages are not to our prefent purpofe. Then, at page 136, the account proceeds thus :] The fouth-weft fide of the ifland is of a quite dif- ferent nature [from the other, as to accefs] : for tho' the fliore [there] is more rocky and craggy, yet there are two places, by which, in flat-bottomed boats, fuch as are the * tfcJoerbotui, one may not only land on the {hore, but even advance as far as a lake, by the fl:reams [that flow from it]. The firfl: of thefe places is at 50 verftes, and the other at 1 1 f , from the fouth-eaft end of the ifland. This laft place is very remarkable from the fea ; for the land there goes rounding from the north to the weft ; and, at the very promontory, there runs a ftream, which is the largeft of any in that ifland ; and, vvhen the water is high, its depth is not lefs than 7 feet. It runs from a great lake, which lies a verfte and a half from its mouth : and becaufe that ftream grows deeper, the farther it is from the fea, therefore one may conveniently go upon it in boats as far as the lake : and upon the lake there is a fafe ftation ; for it is furrounded with rocky mountains, as with a wall, and ftieltered from all winds. The chief mark, by which one may know this ftream from the fea, is an ifland, which is about 7 verftes in circumference, and lies to the fouth at 7 verftes diftance from the mouth of the ftream. The ftiore * Large canoes, or boats, fomewhat refembling ferry-boats. from [ 491 } from thence towards the weft, is fandy and low for 5 verftes. Round the fhores, there arc no rocks under water; which one may know from thence, becaufe there are no * eddies [breakers]. From the higheft rocks of that illand, one fees the following lands : at the fouth, two iflands, one of which meafures about 7 verftes in circumference, as was obferved before ; but the other is over-againft the very end of Berings ifland, at the fouth- weft: it confifts of two high and cleft rocks, of about three verftes in circumference, and is at 14 verftes diftaiice from Berings illand. From the north-eaft end of Berings ifland, in clear weather, one may fee, to the north-eaft, very high mountains, covered with fnow, and their diftance may be computed at 100 or 140 verftes. Thofe mountains our author thought, with better grounds, to be a cape of the continent of America, than an ifland : i . Becaufe thofe mountains [allowing forj confidering their diftance, were higher than the mountains on the [neighbouring! iflands. 2. Becaufe that, at a like diftance towards the eaft, one obferves plainly, from the ifland, fuch like white mountains, from the height and extent of which all judged that it was the continent. From the fouth-eaft end of Berings ifland, they faw, to the fouth-eaft alfo, another ifland, but not very clearly: it feemed to lie between Berings ifland and [fome] low part of the continent. From the weft and the fouth-weft fides, it was obferved, that, even in clear weather, there is a per- * la German, Irennung. S ss petual i $ [ 492 ] petual fog above [higher up than] the mouth of tHe river Kamtchatka j and from thence, in fome mea- fure, they came to know the inconfiderable diftance of the land of Kamtchatka from Berings ifland. North of the fo often mentioned Berings ifland,, there is another ifland, in length from 80 to 100 verlles, which lies parallel to it, /". e, from the fouth- eaft to the north-weft. The ftreights between thefe twoiflands,at the north-wefl, meafure 20 verftes, and at the fouth-eaft about 40. The mountains upon it are low^er than the ridge [of mountains] in Berings ifland. At both ends of it, there are, in the fea, many rocks at [low] water mark, and perpendicular rocks like pillars. With regard to the weather, it diflfers from that at Kamtchatka only in this, that it is l ore fevere and fliarp : fbr the ifland has no flicker from any quarter j, and, befides that, it is narrow, and without woods. Moreover, the force of the winds increafes to fuch a degree, in thofe deep and narrow vallies, that one can fcarce ftand upon one's legs. In February and April months, were obferved the iharpeft winds, which blew from the fouth-eaft and from the north- weft. In the former cafe, the weather was clear, but tolerable; but in the latter cafe, it was clear, in- deed, but extremely cold. The higheft rifing of the water happened in the beginning of February month, during north-weft winds : the other inundation was in the middle of May, occafioned by great rains, and by the fudden thawing of the fnows. Neverthelefs, thofe floods were moderate, in comparifon with thofe, of which there [ftill] remained undoubted marks : for there have^ [ 493 3 have been carried many trees, and whole ikeletons •of fea animals, to the height of 30 fathoms, or more, above the furface of the fea [above the com- mon water mark, or level] : from which our author judges, that, in the year 1737, ^^^^^ happened, likewife, here [in this ifland] fuch an inundation as that at Kamtchatka. Earthquakes happen [here] feveral times in the year. The moft violent, that was obferved, was in the beginning of February, which, during a weflerly wind, lafted exadlly fix minutes j and before it was heard a noife, and a ftrong wind, under ground, with a hiffing, which went from fouth to north. Among mineral things, which are found in that ifland, one may reckon, as the moft remarkable, the •fine waters, which, upon account of their purenefs and lightnefs, are very wholfome : and this virtue of them was obferved upon fick people, with advantage, and the defired fatisfa^ion. With regard to the plen- tifulnefs of them, there is not a valley but what has a ilream running through it j and the number of them all . together exceeds fixty ; among which there are fome, which are from 8 to i a fathoms broad j and fome are two, and fome even 5 fathoms deep, when the .water is high; but there are few fuch, and the greater part of them is extremely fhallow at the mouth ; be- caufe that they have a very rapid courfe, on account of the fteep flopes of the vallies, and that near the fea they divide into many rivulets. Sss 2