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Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmAs A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est filmA A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcassaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. irrata to pelure, n A . D 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 CAPT. J. D. WINCHESTER'S EXPERIENCE ON A VOYAGE FROM LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS TO SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. AND TO Till. ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. SAI.EM, MASS. NRWCOMH & GAUSS, I'RINTKRH. 1900. Copyright, 1900. By J. D. Winchester, Beverly, Mass. Newcomb & Gauss Press, Salem, Mass. PREFACE. That my reatlcrs may fully uudcrstand in the begin- ning who the parties are they are readinir about, 1 write this ])reface. I joined the Lynn Mining Company that left Lynn Nov. 10th, 1^UT. This company bought a schooner, the Abliie M. Deering, and went l>y way of water, stopping at Bahia, Brazil, S. A., then passing through the Straits of Magellan, and so on up to San Francisco, I had a rare chance to sketch the many true pictures from nature that decorate this book, the total number being thirty-seven. The schooner in the book is called the Diver, nicknamed by the crew for the vigorous way in which she dove into a sea, giving man\ of >is a good wetting, in spite of every precaution. Pacific N. W. History Dept. PROVINCIAL LIBRARY VIOTORIA, ». 0. 4^447 CONTENTS. PACK CHAPTER I Preparation for tho cniiso . . CHAPTER II From Lynn to Nova Scotia— A heavy storm is encountered througli which the Diver passes safely— Experiences of a sea- sick crew— At anchor at Ihyer's Island CHAPTER III The long voyage commenced— Running through the Gulf Stream into warm weather— The mad dog takes command— Drinking water runs short and a stop is made to replenish the supply . 41 54 71 90 CHAPTER IV Through the Straits of >Iagollan-A deserted sheep ranch— Duck shooting in a strange land-We see glaciers and explore a Pata- gonian jungle— Our first news from liome CHAPTER Y Into the Paciflc-We make our sleeping-bags and llud them too small— Practical jokes on board-Food and water get scarce- Collision narrowly avoided— Arrival at San Francisco CHAPTER VI On shore at last-Unsuccessful attempts to sell the Diver— Hoop- er's rascality disclosed-The vessel at length disposed of and five of us embark on the Umatilla for Seattle . ... CHAPTER VII Arrival at Puget Sound— Secure passage for Alaska, and purchase our outfits-Shortage of provisions on board the Haydn Brown- Peculiarities of some of the passengers 104 6 CONTENTS. CHAITHH VIII From Dutch Harbor to St. >Hchiiel8 — A tram]) over the moun- tains — Doings on board tlie bar(|uo — Trouble for the Chase gang— Hot'man docidos to go home— The com])any ri'diicod to three 14(1 ClIAITKi; IN Up the Yukon— Wo work our passage to the mouth of the Koyu- kuk — Land and jirocure a boat — Hun a gauntlet of mosiiuitoes — Difficulties in navigation— ('on(|uered by lapids . . . \'iS (JJIAITEJJ \ , N'. 8,, Foil San KitANti-^c FlIUl.IN(i TIIK .Till (;atciiin-kki.i.o\v Tiikkk ("a.mk Xkar Bkino a Collision Kntkki.ni^ thk (Joi.den (Jatk, San Fhancihco . Thk Stkamku Umatilla Bound kou Skattle . Thk Bah<;uk Haydn Brown Makino thk Unamak|Pass Thk Ko< k Lsland Lkaving St. Michaels for TnEjYiKON The Canok (^Ai'sizEP Takino IN Wood on THK Yukon .... (tEttino Ready to Ascend the Koyckuk . Difficulties We Met on thk River . Hands I'l' ! The Indian Home on the Koyukuk . Our First Indian Traders Boarded iiy S(/uaav Traders .... The " Florence " ON A Sand-mar Working the R.\i"Ids Paying Toll Breaking the Traii Sa^i Mallimoot Trading I Lay Alone Struggling ayith Death The Dbsebtion Stewart Island . . . . Landing in .v Storm on the Bering Sea^Coast A Burial at Sea FronUiti)ieve. 3S - 44- .')4- 57 (10 (U (17 «s m 70 88' 03 05 i)0 - Kil _ 120 - l-ld-' LJS - 1(10- 1()L' - l(i(i - 170- 172- 174- 17(>- 178 — 184- 18(1- 104- 108- 21K)~ 204- 218- 2U^ ' 238- a^o 250 ^ CIIAl'TKU I. PHEPAIIATION Knit TIIK CIMISK. Ill tlio summer of '97, the jfreiit Klondike fever swept across our land, and canii'd many of our i Mig, able men int(t its vortex and swept them away to tin- great North- west to seek their fortunes in a land ■ illi all the casuali- ties and horrors of a cold Arctic cli.iiutc. Many never re- turned to the dear ones who awaited them, and whether a wife or a inr)tlier, she must weep for liim ■who now lies at rest in tlie icy embrace of some piospeeti u'"s hole. I know not what temptw me to write this liook, hut the inspiration of a sad experience that clings to me and seems to say — " Show me to the world, keei) me hid away no longer, but let the world know of this horrid decei)tion that lurks around our peaceful homes, destroying oui peace of mind until we know no rest, and through our fancied thoughts of riches and vain endeavors to procure them, come to the conclusion that the wealth we most needed was in the homes that we so longed to see." I had read of the great finds they had made in Alaska, and often Avished that I had the ways and means of reach- ing there, but it \vas a long, disagreeable journey to make as I lived in the town of B — , in one of the eastern states, and consequently cost considerable money, so I felt that I must overcome my great desire and remain at home. It was in the month of August when my wife, after reading a paragi-aph in the papers, of a woman in Klondike \vho took out with her dish-pan sixty dollars (9) 10 TO THB ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. a pan after her husband's first washing, began to get the gold fever. Soon after we saw in the papers where the Hattie L. Phillips, Captain Blackburn, was fitting out for Alaska and would sail the latter part of October. Being a sea-faring man, I began to see my way to Alaska. After devising schemes of all kinds that failed to meet the requirements needed, I read in the papers where a Mr. W. II. Hooper was organizing a company to go out to the gold-fields. I wrote to him at once and he replied, wishing me to call — which I did. Mr. Hooper was a man who would impress one fairly with his manner and style. He expressed himself freely on the common topics of the day, and finally, with a superficial flow of socialism in his discourse, told how the working-man was held down by the heel of the oppressor, but there was redemption for him in Alaska, where a jx)or man could drive his stakes with no millionaire bosses to say that he should not. He gave me his plans which were as follows : The number of members belonging to the company should not exceed twenty ; each member was to pay in to him <8250, making a first payment on the 10th of October of fifty dollars — that would be forfeited in case the member backed out — and the remain- ing two hundred dollars to be paid between that^time and and the first of November. This contract was to be signed by all the members of the company. There would be a committee chosen by him to select a good vessel at some of the sea-ports, one suited to make the voyage around Cape Horn, and to purchase the same if it came within the limits of our means. His plans I considered all right as far as I could see, under the blinding influence of gold, and so I became a member of the (^ompany. He chose me on the committee for purchasing a vessel, and as soon as practical we went in search of one. We visited one of the fishing ports where a large fleet of schooners was owned, knowing that there we would be more liable to PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 11 find one that would suit our purpose. We were directed by a man who kept a restaurant, to a Mr. Babmon who owned a few vessels in the ileet, and wanted to sell out. We met Mr. Babmon at his home who said he had one for sale, lying at the wharf and that he would like to sell the othei-s and go out of the business. We told him that we wanted to buy a vessel and if his suited perhajw we could make a bargain, so he directed us to the wharf where she lay. We went down to the wharf and found lying there the schooner Diver of 98 tons register, not in verj' presentable shape about decks, for she had just come in from a fishing cruise, and her sails were not furled but tumbled together in a hurry ; her gear lay loose aliout the deck, and a very strong odor of fish gurry could be de- tected, for ',he boys in thee e cases of just returning from a trip, jump her as soon as she touches the wharf. We looked this vessel all over and found her perfectly sound and well fastened. She was just the size we wanted, well sparred and rigged but would require a new suit of sails and running gear before she was fit for the voyage. We liked thie looks of the schooner, her rig l^eing modern, car- rying a fore stay-sail with balloon jib, and all other light sails. So we talked it over and all of the committee agreed that the vessel would suit, and as Mr. Hooper was chair- man he went to see Mr, Babmon to make the purchase,, while we waited around the wharf, listening to the stories, told by those who had sailed in her ; we got all her quali- ties both good and bad, and as they did not want to say aiiything that would hurt the sale, I came to the conclu- sion that they had not told all they knew. Mr. Hooper cime down after an absence of two hourrf and gave us Mr. Eabmon's figures. Ke wanted twentj'-four hundred dol- liU'S for the whole outfit ; Mr. Hooper wanted to make an offer, and asked our advice ; we thought that two thousand 12 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. dollars was about right for the fli-st offer, as it was nejirer the mark of what we could afford to give. Mr. IIooi)er went up to the office again and made the offer which, of course, was refused ; this we expected, and as Mr. Hooper was not authorized to raise it, he came back to us and we raised it one hundred dollars more, as Babmon had dropped ■one hundred dollars. Hooper saw Babmon again, and when he returned to us Babmon was with him. We had just returned from the Kobin Hood, a craft whose dimensions would acconnnodate us, although she was not quite as large as the Dive)', but their figures were higher, as she was not as old and in better repair than the Diver. We were ready to receive Mr. Babmon and the bantering began. We raised it twenty-two hundred dollars, and there we stiiyed while Balmion stood at twenty-ihree hun- dred ; I said that I would give no more, and we started for the train. Babmon kept along with us arguing that the vessel was woith more money : I whispered to Hooper to split the difference. He did so and Babmon closed the bargain, we paying a small sum to bind the trade, and the Diver belonged to our company. We felt that we had done our day's work satisfactorily' and retmned home. Next morning, with an addition of two more of the com- pany and a Mr. Ballser, we went after ou" ' to bring her to Lynn, it being the nearest harl .>ur homes, where she wiis to luidergo a thorough repairing so as to be ready for sea by the 10th of November. While on the train enjoying the ride, I began to look over my companions, those who were to be my shipmates for many montlis on the stormj- ocean. Some of them 1 had never seen before ; one they culled Admiral, who, by the sea phrases he used in his conversation, I judged to be quite a sailor, but the Bartlett brothei-s I plainly saw knew nothing of a sea-faring life, but Hooper claimed that they were all right. Here was a bit of deception and 1 nuist rUEPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 18 confess that ray confidence w.ts a little shaken, when I 1)6- giin to realize Hooper's true character, that he was a little careless of his word at times and deception with hira was a virtue. Mr. Hooper held all the aioney without honds. He had elected himself president, secretitrv and trcivsurer of the company, his ruling was despotism while he preached so- cialism. \Ve had bowed to his will like so many pagi\ns, paying in our money on a bai"e i-cceipt and accepting his dictations whenever or wherever he saw tit to dictate. He now carried with him two thousand two hundred and fifty dollai-s of the Company's money, trusted beyond pru- dence ; how easy he could skip. V»ut no one thought such a thing of Mr. Hooper, in fact it would not do to think this of him, for be was (juick to anger, and when you w?re out of his books, there was no hope for you this side of Alas- ka. The money he carried was to pay for the vessel, and when the train stopped at the station, we went on board of the schooner, and l)egJin to get her ready for the trip to Lynn, while be went up to pay Habmon the balance due on the vessel, and engjige a sailmaker to make a new suit of sails. The sailmaker came on boaitl and took the measure for the sails and we cleaivd at the Custom House, as the business was all settleil. We hauled down to the end of the whai'f where we made sail, and with a fair breeze we sailed out of the harbor. ( )ff tlie Cape the wind died out and left us in an uncomfortable chop of a sea, that tumbled us alwut in all shajies, and I l)egan to feel a little faint, as I liad eaten nothing since I left home. But there was a good clam chowder cooking below, and I kept up ray courage, patiently waiting for the fii-st call. I saw that Hooper was watching us. to see us run to the rail, and pay our respects to Father Neptune as there could not be j> l)etter sea invented to make a man sea-sick than that we ,.i.ie experiencing off old Cape Aiiu. Dinner being ready 14 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD riKLDS. I went down in the forecastle where it was to be served, followed by our two new men Fred and George Bartlett ; they were brothers and I noticed by the dull and don't- care-a-snap state of mind the}' were in, that they were lin- gering on the borders of sea-sickness, and though assuming an air of defiance in front of a bowl of steaming clam chowder, their laughter sounded unnatural as they bumped against each other, and their countenances took on that sickly hue which indicates a bilious turn of affairs in the region of the stomach. I saw Fred seize his bowl of chow- der and make for the companion-way saying at the time it was too hot for him down there. I sat enjoying my dinner with George, who sat opposite and tried to talk in an off-hand manner of the voyage we Avere to make, and attempted to swallow his chowder as though it was an easy thing for him to do, when he suddenly said, " Don't you think it is hot down here ? I don't see how you can stand it." •• I think it about right," I said, and then he suggested that we ascend to the main deck and finish our dinners; I quietly demurred, and saying, "it is too hot for me," he made a stivgger for the steps which he grasped with a grip of iron, and making one bound, disappeared up through the scuttle. " It is hotter than h " was his last remark on that occasion, and I heard something like New York choked out with the gurgling and spitting, as he cast up accounts with the old sea-god, who appeared to enjoy the sport as he rocked tlie vessel to and fro, as if to make sure that he had given up all the fruit of the sea, that he had attempted to swallow without Neptune's con- sent. The chowder and cabin was all left to me ; " the world is mine," I said as I finished my dinner, and went on deck. We were running along in smooth water now with a fair breeze. I looked around for the boj's and there they lay, each one on a coil of I'ope, looking pale and desolate, little PHEPABATION FOR THE CBUISK. 15 caring what become of themselves or the vessel; these symptoms are always exiierienced just before a relapse. I could imagine how they felt and sympathized with them, but sailing along in smooth water brought them on their feet, and they stood initiated into the miseries of a home on the rolling deep. The weather changed and it was getting dark with squalls of rain and we were anxious to get into port before night shut in. We made Egg-rock light and shaped our courae for Lynn. We got up off Nahant and the wind blowing ou<- of the harbor gave us a dead beat in. We expected a tug to meet us, but, it being a stormy night, none came, so we anchored under Nahant, tied up our sails, put up our anchor light and set our watch, and as we had on board a passenger who wished to l>e landed at Nahant, we launched one of our dories, and set him on shore. The wind was blowing a cold sleet, and it was dis- agreeable boating, our dory was slow in coming on board, but at liist we heard them alongside making a great deal of Relay house noise which I understood when 1 saw two or three suspicious looking black bottles handed up over the side of the vessel ; they were carried below and the corks drawn before any (questions could be asked, the boys imbibing freely and smoking their pipes. As the black bottle kept going the rounds, their spirits rose and they told their funny stories, and sang their happy songs. I forgot to mention there was a bottle of ginger ale for me, as I did not use intoxicants. T got one glass of ginger when it was captured by the black bottle gang and its con- tents was foon passing down the parched throats of this thirsty creW. I want^ed to get a little sleep and retired to the afttu* cabin to get awaj' from the noise. It was cold and ilamp but I found a room and turned in. I tried to sleep, but could not, and so fell to thinking of the long, hazardous journey I was about to make with men all strangers to 16 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. me and if those I could then hear singing, dancing and shouting were a sample of the rest of the crew, and Mr. Hooper, organizer and manager, at their head there wan trouble enough ahead for me. I formerly had a feeling of respect for Mr. Hooper. When I first met and talked with him, he gave me the impression that lie was the riglit man in the right place, but now I could hear his voice above the rest, as he sang or broke forth in language both ol)scene and profane ; and so they drank until the contents of the black bottle was gone, their hilarious songs ended and they were soon stretched out in the arms of that great comforter, sleep. There was our leader, the man to guide us around that stormy cape and up in those regions above the Arctic. cir- cle, to put in a winter auudst snow and ice ; was lie capa- ble, was he to be trusted i If he was, I doubted it, and but for the confidence I had in myself I should have felt dis- couraged ; but I felt equal to the occasion, and consoled myself by thinking so, and soon fell iisleep. I awoke next morning and found the tug-boat alongside. I jumped out of my berth, shook myself and was all ready for business. We manned the windlass and hove up anchor, and the tug took us and placed us alongside of Breed and I Folder's wharf, where we moored her. Mr. Hooper Avas to look after the repairing of the vessel and so I went home, but before I left he told me there would be a meeting of the whole company and wanted me to be present. Of course I wanted to be there, to see the rest of our company and to get acquainted. Shortly after I happened in Lynn and called on Mr. Hooper to see how he was getting along. I rang the belU and was ushered in by Mr. Hooper. There were three men present, — one a Mr. Hoytt, who belonged to the com- pany ; and another gentleman who wished to join us. Mr. Hooper questioned him sis to his experience. He said he PRKPARATION FOR THE CKUISE. IT had heen hunting down in Maine one winter, and found he could live in a log cabin quite comfortably. Mr Moo|)- er thought his experience not sufficient, and so dismissed him. " Now," said he, " I have plenty of just such fel- lows calling here every day, trying all manner of induce- ments to get me to tJike them. One man offered me five hundred dollai^s, but I won't break our agreement, which calls for only twenty men, and I have that numl)er already." Mr. lloytt nodded his head, as though he a[> jiroved of ^Ir. Hooper's way of conducting affairs, and I said, " Of course we must carry ourselves along in a straight and upright manner, if we expect success." ^Ir. IToytt nodded liis approval again. Then Mr. Hooper went on to say that he thought he had a good company' of men, honest and sound, every one of tliem. lie said tiuit he was born in Nova Scotia, that he had taken out his fii"st papers for citizenship, that he could have been made a citizen with one set of papers. I advised him not to try it as he would be sorry for it, — it was best to have an honest set of papei-s. To this Mr. Hoytt nodded with two or three successive nods, which showed his highest approval. Mr. Hooper said he would do as we advised him. He told me he had engaged a navigator, who was a very old acquaintance, and who lived in the same place he came from. The man would not be present at the meeting, as he was not in the city. He was an old sea captain, and had sailed the world over, and his name was Rounds. Mr. Hooper admitted that he never liked Rounds, but a« he had joined our company his com- radeship would be tolerated. Mr. Hoytt had not spoken throughout the evening, but seemed to be in a deep study, with his head between his hands, but nodded as phrases in our conversation met his approval. I liked the looks of this man ; he had a good, . earnest look in his countenance, and although no conver- 18 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. sationalist, tried to show in his manner that he was with us through thick and thin. Mr. Hooper claimed to know all about the west coast. He said we could sell our vessel for a fabulous price, — it would pay to load her with steam launclies and dories, to sell out there, as we could reap a large profit. He knew all al)out Alaska, too. He said the Yukon river was easy to ascend, as there was but a three-knot current, and he knew of a steam launch that he could buy cheap, with power enough to tow our outfit up the river. We must each have Winchester rifles and two hundred rounds of ammunition, for the Indians were hostile, and many of the wliites were desperadoes and might need standing off with a rifle. He did not know just what part of Alaska we would locate in — some thought of Cook's Inlet, or the Tananna river — but this was to be decided when we arrived in San Francisco. He showed me the articles tliat every man was to sign, which he had composed. Each man was to have a duplicate, so that he could read for himself, and not be found wanting. He was going to have this business car- ried on S3'stematically, and every man know his jjlace, or there would be trouble in camp. Mr. Hooper tried to im- press me that he was a bad man to run up against if things did not go his way, and so he rattled on until it was time for me to go home. I was pleased with my visit, for I had learned his inten- tions. I thought of Mr. Hooper and his dissipation the night off Nahant, and now in the role of a stern, hareh disciplinarian. If he practised these moods in this com- pany he would find the rock to founder on ; that he w&s using poor judgment was plain to be seen, for twenty men of good, sound sense, and trusty mechanics, could not be brought under the tyrant's heel without a struggle. After a few days I was notified of the time of meeting, PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 19 ami was soon on ray way to Lynn again to Mr. Hooper's house, where I arrived in clue time, and found a few had assembled before nie. To these I was introduced, and then seated myself to watch proceedings. A few more came, and then Mr. Hooper declared it was time to proceed to business. In the first place he wanted to know what the company thought of the vessel, to which they answered they were very much pleased with the purciiase. They •considered the Diver just what was needed, and after they had talked on the merits of the vessel, commending me as well as Mr. Hooper for finding such a craft, someone sug- gested that the meeting be called to order. ^Ir. Hooper rapped, and all were silent. One member asked if it was in order to make a motion. Mr. Hooper nodded, and he moved that the company proceed to organize and elect officers. The motion being seconded and carried, we pro- ceeded to organize and elect our officers. Mr. Hooper was elected president and treasurer, and I was financial secre- tary. Mr. Hogan was elected secretary. This w us some- thing Mr. Hooper did not expect. He had planned to carry on this business according to his articles, where he stood at the head, and would not be dictated to. I could tell by the look on his countenance he was very much dis- pleased, yet he smiled, indicating an inward feeling that they would hear something yet. This movement showed that some one beside Mr. Hooper was working for the company, and was a direct slap in the face, which he felt pretty bitterly, and so we came from under the dictator and stood ready to govern oui-selves in a body. Mr. Hooper took the chair as president-elect, and said, " We have a great deal of business on hand to put through to-night. We have here a provision list — we would like to hear from members concerning it; we haven't got much money, so we must economize. I think the list can be reduced." One or two of the members said they knew 20 TO THK ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. nothing about titting out for a voyage, so they would leave it to the judgment of those who had had tlie experience. Mr. Hooper claimed it could l)e reduced considerable, as he intended to fit out plain. " There," said he, " is five gallons of vinegar, we don't need it. I don't care nothing about vinegar myself." I then arose and addressed the chair : *' Mr. President, if economy is necessary, why, vve must economize, but we must have some vinegar. If no one else cares for it, I do. I think a half gallon would do me the journey." To which they made a motion, and it was voted one-half gnHon of vinegar. The list was soon disposed of, being cut down one- quarter ; all delicacies were disposed of, and salt-horee loomed up in large quantities, with salt pork, i)eans and peas. I suggested that as we had done away with al' the delicacies, that we buy the best in the market for our stores, so a committee of three was appointed to visit different grocei-s and get their list of prices. Mr. Hooper then arose and said, " Gentlemen, we must have a steam launch. I know of one, three years old, all in good con- dition, that 1 can buy for three hundred dollars ; a launch is something we have got to have, and we had better con- sider this one." After a ffrw moments' silence, some one moved that Mr. Hooper procure a steam launch fit for our work up in Alaska ; another member moved an amend- ment, that Mr. Hooper purchase the same launch of which he had spoken, and have her in Lynn by the fii-st of No- vember ; another member wished to strike out the word " purchase " and insert the words " be instructed to pro- cure a steam launch." The chair did not put the question, but sat there with a frown on his brow, as the crowd de- bated in a most disorderly manner. Some one called for the question, when the chair arose, pale and agitated ; al- though he spoke calmly, you could detect a slight quaver in his voice as he spoke : " Gentlemen, I wish to say right . PRKPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 21 here tliat there are two men in this company wlio want to fight me. Now if they think they have got an easy joh, they had Itetter run up against me, that is all." If a boml) had exploded we would not have been more surprised ; here he had ignored the (juestion, he had stampeded the debaters, and the meeting was practically at an end, b}' his bringing Injfore it some of his own per- sonal affairs. However, we tried ti wondering what was to happen thiK tin.ie. The train ntopped jiist as I thought I had the ex- plosion figured out, and the conductor sang out Lynn so loud that I started to lu}- feet; had I hecn asleep and dreaming ? As I hustled ot¥ the tmin in the cool air, I said to myself, " no, this is all real." There were not as many present at the meeting as I ex- pected ; their ahsence, Mr. Iloofjcr explained, showed their confidence. He said the hoys were standing hy him; ready to advance more money if reciuired. Me said the vessel was not hurt nuich, that l)etween three hundred and five hundred dollars would cover the damage. I in(|uired into the cause of the hlow-up and it seemed Mr. Hooper had got it into his head to go house-cleaning, and as the schooner was pretty huggy, he consulted the pharmacist Hogan, who said that he knew of a compound that would drive all the vermin on hoard into the sea. He fixed up a pailful of this compound and gave it to Mr. Hooper who took it on hoard, and told the hoys how to use it so it would he safe. Mr. Hooper had a joh at the other end of the vessel, a good safe distance away, while one man went helow to ap[)ly this hug remedy, with wnat result he learne'^ to his sorrow. Mr. Hooper had heen to Boston and seen some of the contractors on such jobs, and the vessel could be repaired cheap. He could have all the work done by contmct or by the day, but recommended the day work, for he could get a more thorough job, al- 24 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. tliougli it might cost a little more. Some member suggest- ed lie had better call the meeting to oi-der so we could bike a vote on it. The chair rapped to order and a motion was read tiiat Mr. Hooper take the scliooner to Hoston and have what repaire done he considered necessary and that he engage the oarjienter to work by the day. Mr. Hooper asked, " Are you ready for the question i " — to wliioh two or three jumped to their feet and called for a division of the question. The chair was stuck again, and without mpping order, insisted on putting the question in full, in spite of all opposition, ignoring the meml)ei"s who objected and who did not look very much pleased. A vote was taken, the chair declared it a vote, and so another battle Avas won. Mr. Hooper thought it was time to adjourn, and said they would have another meeting soon to see about our outfits. If we wanted auA'thing, he could get them cheap. As we should want sleeping liags and shee{)- skin jackets, we could think it over liefore next meeting, for then it would l)e brought up, and without ceremony he left the chair saying he would have the Diver back in Lynn in ten days. We said good night and parted and I returned home to await my next call. While Mr. Hooper Wiis getting the schooner ready for Boston the wharf was crowded with people to see the wreck. Mr. Hoojier abused and insulted them and raised one of the sails l)etween the fore and main rigging, so they could not look on board. The schooner was tiiken away and he told the jnlot she drew but eleven feet of water, when she realh' drew twelve, and thej' nearly got ashore on the bar — she was to go on the marine railway accord- ing to agreement. Mr. Hoo^ier's nephew remained to see that she was docked but he went home. According to the nephew's story, they had the dix'k set for eleven feet of water, so when they came to haul her in she stuck half way and then it was high water. He tried to get a tug PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 25 to haul the schooner out of the dock, but none would help ; of couree we knew what that meant — •• you are in trouble and must bid high if you want us " — but poor Dalton had no money to bid, so the tide went out and left the vessel hanging half way out of the dock, which was a terrible strain — some would have broken in two. This showed Mr. Hooper's pig-headedness ; he would not give in ; he was always in the right, and when he knew he was wrong would never admit it. This is the way I ever found him on thd voyage. Dalton sta3'ed by the schooner with an- other relative to help fit her out, and they had a plenty of hard work, for he told nje afterwards tliat Mr. Hoojier would give him money to buy his food and then would borrow it back aq;ain, and so some days he liad but little to eat. He said Mr. Hooper was veiy initable and abusive when things were not going right, which will be explained further along in these pages. The vessel was repaired sooner than we expected and was brought back to Lynn, and I was notified that another meeting would be held ; I was not long in getting to Lyim, to have a look at the schooner and found all repaii-s had been done, and it looked lietter than before. Mr. Hooper was there painting and Dalton was working on the rigging. He asked me how I liked and 1 replied that I '.vas very much pleased with what had Ijeen done. He had the main hatch enlarged, so we could put the steam launch and dories below, and the schooner was as strong as ever. He invited me up to supper with him that evening, and Dalton and his cousin came along with us — this is the way he fed the boys, sometimes at his house and somntimes on board, and I wondered how he kept run of their expenses, as I supposed it would surely come up in the settlement, but it turned out as I thought it would, he had kept no account and it was never mentioned. We had for tea a sample of the tea he was going to buy 26 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. for US and I considered it very good for cheap tea. Later, the members began to arrive and we were soon seated, ready to open the meeting. Mr. Hooper said he wished to stiite that our secretary, Mr. Hogan, was phiying it mean — that witliout doubt he was trying to shake the company, and draw his money out. Mr. Hooper claimed that the money was forfeited to the company, and so mat- ter's stood. Mr. Hogan was not present, but was expected, and we must keep (j^uiet and he would do the tjvlking, for he thought he could shame him and by so doing prevail on L. in to stay with us. Hogan soon put in an appearance ; he was very pale, with a woe-l)egone look, and witli a for- saken sort of demeanor. He took his seat, the chair rapped the meeting to order, and the record of the last meeting was I'ead and approvetl. The chair arose and said, " We have got quite a push of business to go over to-night, and the most important part must come up first." He iield in his liand an itemized account of the work done on the ves- sel and passed it to the secretary to read, and the amount of t..3 bill was seven hundred do.iars. After a great deal of talk and explaining, it was voted on and accepted, then Mr. Hooper brought up the subject of water casks. He had been looking at some and thought they would be just what we wanted ; the membei's asked for some information regarding water casks, as they had never had any experience, and wanted to know what constituted a good water cask, to which Mr. Hooper referred them to me. I told them that a good water cask was a cask never used for anything else but water, thnt in buying ctisks you had to be careful not to be deceived into buying cheap casks, for I had all tlie experience I wanted in drinking rotten water, and be- fore I took my seat warned Mr. Hooper to get nothing but the regular water cask. Mr. Rounds remarked that he had been a sea-faring man and thought I talked about right. On a vote being taken it was carried and Mr. PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 27 Hooper was to purchase the casks. Mr. Hoo|)er said there was nothing more to vote on, l)ut he wished all those who wanted sleeping bags and slieepskin jackets to leave their names with him, for by ge'^ting a large number he could get them cheap, — the jackets would l>e made in Lynn and the sleeping bags and clothes Iwgs made on boanl the schooner. He could get the canvas a ;d sheepskins cheap ; hud examined some l)ags in Boston and had a good idea what style thej- should l)e matlc in, — so we left our names with him. One memlter. Mr. Rowley, said ho wovdd make his at home while his Ijrother's would Ih? made on l)oaixl. We also left our names for Winchester rifles, but were to go with him to purchase them. The committee on ship stores was called for and reported progress, and there be- ing no more business the company adjourned until a special notitication was received. Mr. Hogan called for his coat and hat, as he was in a hurry to go, when Mr. Hooper arose and confronted him, saying, " Mr. Hogan. I have something to say to you before you go." Then turning to us, he said, •' Mr. Hogan. here, is one of the head promoters of this great voyage we are to take, and he has l)een a hard worker, as you all know, but he surprised me the other day by asking me to give him back his money as he had changed his mind and wanted to stay at home. I don't see how I can give it l)ack to him, for, accoitling to the aiticles, he has forfeited that money. I am very sorry, but I can't give him the money, besides l)eing disappointed. Now I think all you gentlemen will sustain me in this when you come to read the articles. I am very sorry but it can't be helped." Mr. Hogan thought differently ; he thought it could be heli)ed. He said he was a poor man and it was all the money ne had and he thought it rightfully belonged to him, and poor Hogan shed tears. Mr. Hooper explained that if he gave him the money, he would break the articles and all the 28 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. rest of the company would be entitled to theira — the only way he could get his money was to go with us. Hogan declined and with a very sorrowful countenance withdrew silently into the shades of night, and bitterly lamented the day he ever met Mr. Hooper. As far as I could see, Mr. Hooper was right, for, ac- cording to tiie articles, Hogan had forfeited his money, and Mr. Hooper could not break these articles without risking the loss of the majority of the company, and he had the vessel on his hands. Mr. Hooper said, " He is going to make trouble for us. Hogan is a good fellow, but there is his girl, she is at the bottom of it all, she don't want him to go and he has given way to her, so I suppose he will go to law." That subject being dropped, we talked of having tlie company incorporated, but as no one present knew what it would cost, we could not pro- ceed. Our engineer, Mr. Grey, said he was well acquaint- ed with a lawyer in Boston who would tell him and not charge him anything, so we thought it a good plan to find out what it would cost before we took any decided steps toward incorporation. We talked of the events of the evening until we tired, and each one of us started for home with our minds full of Hogan, wondering how it would all end. I had no real pit}' for him ; I did not want any part of his money, but he deserved to lose it for he was one of the head promoters of tiiis scheme which, so far, had made so much trouble for us. I anxiously awaited that special notification; it soon came ; and I went to the last meeting that waj* held in Lynn. A number of the company were present and every one was talking of the Hogan case. He iuul engaged a lawyer who claimed he could get his money for him, — this is the way the talk ran until the chair rapped to or- der. The chair appointed a secretary pro tem, and Mr. Grey took his seat ; the record was read and approved, PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 29 and we proceeded to business. The chair said there were bills to be paid, and as the tenth of November was draw- ing near, the day on whicli we were to sail, the sooner they were paid the better. It was voted that Mr. Hooper be authorized to pay all the bills for the company, then the committee on ship stores Avas called ; they said they had the different prices of many different stores, and they found Blood's in Lynn had figured the lowest ; their re- port was accepted. Mr. Hooper liad bought the water casks that would hold two thousand gallons of Avater. He had fallen short of money and borrowed one hundred dol- lars of Mr. May, one of the company, and he would Avant two hundred dollars more as the boys had not paid in. To this Mr. Rowley arose and said his brother had the money and he thought Ave could get about five hundred on a mortgage — of course the vessel was good for it — if the company agreed to it. We consented that Mr. Hooper get Avhat money he Avanted from Mr. KoAvley's brother, as he Avas one of us, and this business Avould not be knoAvn outside of the company, so Mr. RoAvley Avas notified mat he Avas Avanted at Mr. Hooper's house on a certain even- ing on a matter of business. Mr. Hooper notified the boys they could go to the Globe Manufacturing Co. to have their measure taken for the jackets, an.' went on to say that he had found out that Mr. Hogan Avas a crook, that he had found a man to take his place Avho Avanted to go with us, and Avanted him to pay his money into his hands and he could haA'^e the money he had paid into the company. Mr. Hooper denounced Hogan as a scoundrel trying to rob this Mr. Ricker of New York. Yes, it Avas a doAvnright attempt to rob, but it seems Mr. Ricker was advised not to pay it and escaped a bunco. Mr. Hooper said further he Avas glad such a man Avas out of the com- pany. He had known liim for a long time and thouglit him honest and upright, his judgment had led him astray; 30 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. in the future he would not know whom to trust. A mo- tion was put that we elect a new secretary, and Mr. (irey was named and elected. The new secretary arose and thanked the memhers for the honor conferred on him and also stated that he had been to see the steam launch with Mr. Hooper ; she was a good boat, as far as his judgment went, but was too small ; that he l)elieved we wanted an- other launch. Mr. Hooper breathed very hard as he lis- tened to Mr. Grey, who soon tr; Mr. liouiuls roomed hy liimselt', and Uu; otlier berth was o(;ciij)it'd l»y Mr. Stewart, a sturdy son of Mont- pelier, \'«irmont. There was tlie Admiral, a tall, six-Foot Do\vn-east ■,■■•. HH^HB , ■ , ';„...,:-vi., ' ■ ' ■ ■'. ■ i 1 I.KAVINU LYNN, NOl . lO, l8j). PREPARATION FOR THE CKUISE. 89 sailors in the crowd that these men attempted to follow, but it being dark, they followed the wrong man, and came running aft, chasing one another around the afterhouse, stumbling over loose ropes tliat happened to lie in their way, but finally seeing where they were wanted, rushed down on their fellows like a lot of frightened colts, and began to pull the fii-st rope they couhl lay their hands on. I could see that the foresail was hoisted by some one, so I did not put myself out of the way to find out which party it was, but I knew it could not In? those who were hauling on the jil) halliards with the oys ; tiiey were getting pretty well fatigued, and the mainsail was a heavy sail, so they grasi)ed the halliards with a grip that meant their courage was gnod for this one sail, and they struggled and kicked and stamped on each other's feet, their main effort seem'.ig to be to get their hands on top,— if it liuit the hands iinder- neath they were supposed to lK?ar it, this was only a slight taste of the sailoi-s" woes, so keep on top was their nu)tto : some poor fellow who was luulerneath would break away frou) the struggling mass and after a few l»reaths of fresh air would make a spring for upper liand and catch the man's hands that were uppermost — perhaps a sore finger — - then, with a muttered curse, out wouUi c«mie the man with tlie sore finger with an expression of psiin and disgust on his counteiiance. " .\ bad place for a sore finger,"* said I. He admitted that it was, t'le'i tried to get a ludd <»n some other part where the crowd was not S'* vicious and was doing no good. The mainsail wa*» u^t ai last and 1 ordered the jib set, after wliid. the tow lH>at whistle*! to let go the hawsor ; this Ijelag done the tug came alongside to take those on ah.ore who were not going in the Diver. The ladies came on deck stricken with irrief : thev seemed 40 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. to have no hopes of ever meeting their ioved ones again. Mrs. Hooper clung to lier husband as if she could not let him go, and with her head on his shoulder whispered to him what her heart felt, as he supported her over the rail on to the tow boat deck, while Mi's. Hoytt could not be comforted ; with her arms around her husband's neck she sobbed hysterically. Tears came to my eyes at this sad scene of parting, for I thought of those whom I had left behjii^ :^nd T stepped beliind the mainmast to better over- come V itions, when I felt a hand laid on my arm, and there is Mrs. Hooper's sister standing by my side. " I came to bid you good-bye, you seem to be alone," said she, and 1 took the proffered hand. She wished us a safe and prosperous voyage, and as the towboat called all aboard, stepped lightly over the rail and the towboat was gone. CHAPTER II. FROM LVNX TO NOVA SCOTIA. — A HEAVY STOHM IS EN- COUNTERED THROUGH WHICH THE DIVEIl PASSES SAFELY. — EXPERIENCES OF A SEA-SICK CREW. — AT ANCHOR AT BRYER's ISLAND. When tlie towboat cast off the hawser and left us I betran to look around to sei \vhere we were. Wo were down oft' little Nahant, with a fair breeze and tide ; and were soon shaping our course for Thatcher's Island light. It was getting on towards dajlight and we divided our men into two watches, port and starboard, and sent one watch below while the other patrolled the deck with a fair wind and tide. We were soon outside of the Cape and siiaped our course for Bryer's Island, N. S. That morning at breakfast the boys did very Avell, but poor Ricker was lying on his back in his berth, so sick he could not hold his head up ; some of the boys had their break- fast on deck. I could not eat what they placed before me,, there was too strong a suspit ion of a cook's slush flavored with rusty kettles, so I turned in for a nap and was soon fast asleep. I slept until eight bells when I went on deck ; it was almost a calm ; the sky looked to me as though we were going to have a change of Avind, the barometer was falling and the navigator looked uneas3- ; the wind came in cats-paws with little rain, and the eastern sky began to look dark and threatening. As the sun went down and night came on, we took in our light sails and made every- thing secure for a storm ; putting up our side lights, we stood ready for whatever came our way, and it seemed as (41) 42 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. if something was coming, and coming rapidly too, in tlie sliai)e of a huge hhick hank that was spreading its length over the sky, racing down upon us like some great winged monster. The stars disappeared one by one until the whole sky was one dark pall and we were enveloped com- pletely, when out of the l)lackue8s came that moan that indicates the gale was near us. "■ Take in the mainsail I " was the order, and the main- sail was lowered and secured just as the storm l)roke over us. We had the jibs in and nothing but the foresail standing, so we hove her to and the little vessel, as she bounded from billow to billow, dashed the spray high over us. the rain and the sleet l»eatiug in our faces as we tried to peer through the density of the night for any danger that might lie in our path. I looke«l to sec how many men I iiad, and could see only one dark figure standing by the foremast holding on to all the ropes he conld get into .his hands, and the spray wetting him down with every plunge the Diver made. My watch had all deserted me but two, one at the wheel and the one away up forward ; sometime th'ough niy watch this esides you { " " No, sir," he replied, and just as I was going to tell him to go below and change his wet clothes for ;ale went down and tlie mist Id'oke away in the west, and we cotdd see the send ha/.in^ across the sky like some great unny in hasty retreat. We l>egan to make sail on the Diver, as a fresh westerly wind overtook us and swelled out our canvas once more to a fair breeze, as we shaped our course again for Hryer's Island. The sea soon ran. down and we were sailing along on (|uite smooth water. ^^'e sighted the hills of Matimicus and as Mr. Hooper and Mr. Rounds were both good pilots in these vvatei-s, — with clear weather and the wind holding, would soon land us, — we had a fine night of it, with a clear sky and a good breeze. Next day we sighted Hryer's Island and went into the harbor in fine shape and dropped anchor on the oi)po- site side of the harbor away from the town, for Mr. Hooper and Mr. Rounds both lived on this side. Mr. Hooper re- ported no custom house work to do, so the boat was low- ered and he and Mr. Rounds were set on shore. All the boys were up on deck now, looking rather thin after their sickness ; the cook had got his apparatus set in order and was doing his part as though nothing had happened, in fact, nothing had happened, so far as they" knew or could tell,, though they seemed to remember on the night of the storm that Ryan, who scented danger, raised himself out of his berth and wanted to know why we did not set out our signals of distress, then fell back into his berth, which he began to realize was the best place for Mr. Ryan. This was all they knew of the storm, so it was not talked of a great deal. We were invited on shore on Sunday to see the town and Mr. Hooper's friends, of whom he had a great m'l; > We accepted, and passed a very pleasant day ; we called on his brother who entertained us with some good music and singing. These men were all fishermen or sailors, or both ; they had very respectable looking homes and the 46 TO THE ALASKAN GOIJ» KIKI^DS. woniiMi were liiinl working and tidy, and uiidei-stood wiiere to placo til*' small mite to malvo it count most. Wo spent a very a