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'. i I At^lM- :\t*i'!v'ON 1 V* * !'■»■ ;:/■ ^m^p'' A RACE WITH THE SUN OR A SIXir.KN MONTHS TorK I'KOM Cll ICAGO AROUX") TIIK WORLD IIIROUOII MAMTor.A AND liKITISII COLUMlilA \\\ TIIK CA- NADIAN 1' \( II'IC- OKKOON AND WASH INC TON —JAI'AN— CHINA — SIAM — STRAITS SKT TI.K.M KNIS — liURMAlI - INDIA — Ci;VI.ON-i;c.Vl'T—(iRF,I-:d:—TURKKV— ROD- MANIA— I If NOARV- AUSTRIA— POLAND— TRANS- CAi'CAsiA— Tiir: ( AsriAN si:a and tiil vol- (iA RIVKR— Ri;sSIA— I'lNI.AND— SWKDKN— NORWAN' - DI'.XMARK — PRUSSIA — PARIS — LONDON AM) HOME BV CARTER H. HARRISON NEW YORK G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS CIIICAOO: W. E. DIBBLE cSi CO. 1889 COI'VKIC.HT liV G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 1889 ^ 1 /i I ^ f ■' 'i ("1 L'^f JAN 1 / 1966 Cbc ■ntnichctbocftcc press Ul.-ctrutyin'UivW.i'.l'--,n.y G. 1'. PutiKim's Snns PREFACE. Tx the :^uinmcr of 1887, haviiv^ laid aside the cares of pubHc office continuously filled durini; fifteen and a half years, and h-vini^' met with a s.ul bereavement which nearly snapped heart- strin'^s, the writer, for the purpose of bridi^nng the chasm lyin;^f between a laborious past and wli.it he hoped mi-;ht be a restful future, started upon .1 tour of the world. For his comparif.ns he had fohn W. Amber<,s the son of a trusted friend, and his own son William Preston Harrison, ai^^etl resjiectively seventeen and eighteen years. On the eve of his departure two editorial friends urged him to write letters on his travels for their papers. Recognizing the dangerous effects of easy idleness after a life of labor, he had alreadydetermined to keep for his children a full'and complete traveller's book. As an experiment he ct)mmenced this in mani- fold and in form of letters. His first letters being very kindly received, he continued them, though forced to steal the time for writing, and oftentimes finding the thing an onerous labor. lUit this labor soon became one of love. What he saw he described honestly, and gave his thoughts freely, hoping to make his friends at home partakers of his happiness. After returning many friends urged him to put his letters into book form. To do this re(iuired more labor than the original writing, for he had, for the sake of economy of sjiace. to cut out much.wliile yet maintaining the epistolary style. He makes no pretensions to literary merit, but asks from the public the same kindliness in reading his letters, which he has felt in writing for them. .^jpiMan ^ CONTENTS CHAPTER 1. I'AGE The Stan — Wiiuiipe^' ;iiiil Manitulin — 'I'liu Caiiailian Pacific Railroal — Sccii-ry ill the UiHl^ic- aii'i tlic Sclkirks, ami cm tliu I'la^cr Kivcr . , . , I CHAPTER H. Timber — I'r'iductifpns ami l'c•culiaritit'^ nf Orej^oii ami Washington — Fmcst Tiro anil Smoke — Scenery of ni \"aiKouver to \'nkohania — An Ocean \'oyai;e Likened to the \'ovaL;e of I-ife — 1 he Risks of the Sea — Stormy Passatje — A 'I'yphoon — I'luckv lapanese Sailors — ( itir Mishaps and Recoveries .....,,, 2ij CHAPTER VII. lieautiful aii.l P.i/arre Japan— Its Cheerful Men and Modest Immodest Women- Its Mechanic^ and Pabies, Houses ami Cities ...... 41 CHAPTER VIII. Kivers, Larm-, and l-'armeis of Jajian— h'urther Characteristics of its T'eoide— It- Hotels, Fund, and Flowers . . . ;; CHAPTER IX. Speculation- uimii Japan — (jrcat 1 lykes Education . . . . , Walls — Liliputian Trees — l-'eiiiale "4 Vlll II CONT/u\TS. CHAPTER X. ,^„, 1 „ i',„1' Vow .1 Wi^L' UuKt— Ka|)lil I'rugress — *-"' CHAPTER XI. ... , , ,vr T,>l..i'"l:^ii- - 1'-'^\^-^"'""' — i-i>ii ..••■••■■■ CHAPTER Xn. (Jiiiliing Japati CHAPTER XHI. Yan..T^c.Kian,-rhine^e Fnnnin.-li.h n,ul M..lc-,..f rn,cl,in,-An,c.,.n,-e ■,,,-,lK-Counm-Mi=.ioManc..(;alnolic..naiTo,cManl . . CHAPTER XIV. .■Innc^eCi.ies Houses, TempU-^, aivl Wo.kshops-'-'.'.t ^..1 l'^':^ K„.M>-Kln:i.- int; l',.i.aatu-'u .'f Cam.m-llower l!o.ats-\Vomf n l'M,an.K.»->usin ■ m CHAPTER XV. Sian.-Ki.h S,Mi-Vast 1-nrcMs of ■rimbc-lian^kok-Vulluro. Katin- tl,. 1 )caa -A Crcm.'ition— AiulieiiL-c uitli tlic King— Siainc-c ■rhfatri.' • -130 CHAPTER XVI. .Singaport-lJotanicil (i.inlcn-A Sail thn-n-l. tl,f Khio-l.in-a .\r>lni.cla-,-Its I-A>HiiMtf Beauty— Chicago MancI— The K'Hialor '49 CHAPTER XVH. lluriiiali—ragoads— Working Klephants— The Irr.aw^achly River— I'aL-alin vith V,()<|<) I'agoaas-^Mandakiy— Kxi|ui-.itc Kailice-.— The lliunK--e HH CHAPTER XVni. ■The Ilooghly— Calcutta— Mount Kvcvtst- A Wonderful Railroad— .\ Dinner with Uml Dufftrin, .and a State Hall '7^ CHAPTER XIX. I Calcutta to r.enares-Thfe Holy City and I'ilgrinis— Sacred P.athing and burning .Corpses — Sarnath and liuddhism — Lucknow and Cawnpore ... 192 CONTENTS. ix CHAl'TKR XX. Lahore to IVsliawiir — ('cnlral Asiaiiis — Wcslcni IliiiKilayas — Ca^liniir — A W'liu Kiilf 2o2 CHAPTER XXI. Iiulia'^ Vast l';!-! — .\ Ciloridiis MoiltTii Iiccil — |)cllii ami .\i;ra — l''.\(|tii'.iti.' Halls ami TcMiilis — 'I'liu 'I'aj — KclluLtiniis ........ 213 CHAPTER WIT. kLiiiarkahk' Mmnitains — .V Mode! Xativc City — MinKcys and IVaoicks — OM Aiiilitr — .\ Kidu on an I'Muphant — Croccjdilts ..... 227 CHAPTEi. XXIIJ. .Mmu-daliad — licantifnl Sarai-cnic Kcnirdns — \Vood-( '.uvijii; — ;\irclia^in!; Shau 1' — \nli\c liiploniacy — lionibay — Towers of Silence — Klc|iluint.i — Thf 151I1 of Icliriiary ............. 235 CHAPTER XXIV. .\cnws thu lii'i'can — Karli I'avus — I'.cniUiful Women — llydcraliad — Old (i'.u.iuda — Titanic Rocks — l-'.lcpliant Kidt- — ( 'liarniini; llos|iiiality .... 248 CHAPTER XXV. Tutirorin — I'ondichciry — Tanjorc — Tricliinojioly and M.adur.-i — Hindoo 'I'dnplcs — A l)L'liiihlful Kidu — Natives and their J )rcss ...... 2O0 149 CHAPTER XXVI. Ceylon — The Cocoa I'alin the People's I'Viend — Tea, Coffee, and Cinchonas — Cliarniinf; Mountain Retreat — Knglish Rule in India — Strictures on the Kn_L;lislnnan's .Manners .......... 269 CHAPTER XXVII. Cities lienealli the Indian ( V-ean — The Red Sea and its Sugi^estions— Sintjular Weather — Suez Canal ........ "S: I()I 17a 192 CHAPTER XXVIII. An .\].ril Trip up the Nile— Deli^'htful Cliniati — Cairo Old and Xew— .\r.al)ic Tnnilis — Coci.l Friday — Roolak .Museum — .Mother and llahe 3,000 Years tlld, 2S9 CHAPTER XXIX. The Nile— Old .and New EgyiH— Kgyptian Houses— The IToddinj; Donkey— Forbiilden Fruits — Kt;yptian I''arms — llc^.ders from an Ass .... 299 CHAPTER XXX. I»r. Scldiemann— Thebes: its Temples and Tombs— Reautiful riclure-Writin"— .\ Native I'east 308 1 Cusmo] an 329 347 • 355 CONTENTS. X CHAPTER XXXI. , ,1,. \ii„,nc Rich Art Treasures Cciiistantly K>;luimc- . . . ■i\l W.mderful Sunset— Karcufll, (Ircccc .•■•■■• CHAPTER XXXn. 1 ivnntiful Vniiniadi — Custom-house — Snlonvm :r ■.• r;::St:s::f l..;i-n.e SaU..u.He._'rUe -nn.. SuUan-I)ervishes.-:ThcBosphorus-^Vonaerfull■an,.rama . . • • CHAPTER XXXHI. The liosphorus-Across )iuI,aria-i:ueharest-Rou,.ania : its Veople, Appear- ance, and rrocUictions CHAPTER XXXIV. Scenes- on T.ower D^nuLe-Huaa-Pesth-lieautiful \V„n.en-Mar,uerite tslan, — Hungarian lierliv CHAPTER XXXV. Vi,,,a-Taxes-Thc Vice of Lottery-Austrian K.rby-Tips-KinK Strasse- Museums — Environs CHAPTER XXXVI. RuntoMoscldeiidid Roads— -iJelightful Tours — Mountani 1 fairies ■ 50J CHAPTER XLVin. Copenhagen- Thorwaldsen— Freilericksbori,'- Thrifty Danes— Run to I'.erlin— llerlin in 1652 and Xow— Rellectious ^oj 394 403 ■ 417 ■ 429 CHAPTER XLIX. A Lunch "en famille" with I'.ismarck— Charmini; Hospitality— Kindliness .if the I'rince — AutoLr,apli> anil I'hotographs ^^4 CHAPTER L. Tlambur-- An Intercstin;; City— (Quaint I lanover— Lean-to ( )ld Houses— Run to Fiankfort — I'he Rhine 546 CHAPTER LI. Wonderful, Fascinatins; I'aris- I,up,-,>vement-, of the Fmpire— Recollections of L>ecember, 1S51 — Markets of I'aris ... = = n 1«! \n CONTENTS. CHAPTER LIl- Vicious I. .melon— Its 1 o{,s ii< i . ^ ^^^^ London, Crcat nn Tortworth Court ami Dt-rkuleyta'tl^ . • CHAPTER Un. ■v\- . 1 .,si- iliL- Race with tl'.'; Sun Our Home Kui.-Niagara-\\c Lost the 56C' LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Tin-. (liu-.AT Sr.i.KiuK (;la(;ikk, (li.Acir.K Ilorsi;. Canadian I Railway . IlrUMI'l' RaNCK, I-lcKKV MnlNTAINS, WIl It CaNAOIAN PACIFIC R. R. ST/ TiiK CiiANcni.i.KR, Ottkr Taii. Rangk, Rocky Mountains. <'\n rACIlIC RaII WAY AVAI.ANCIIK SlIKI), SKI.KIUIC MolNTAINS. CANADIAN PAIiriC RaIIAVAV Cl AlIKK IIorSK AN!) CikKAT (ll.Alll:K. CANADIAN r'ACIIIC RaIIWAY IIl-.RMir MilTNTAIN, RnCKRs' 1'ass. Canaihan PAciric Rauavay CicANiii' (. i;riAi;s (53 Fekt in Circimi f.kknck), Stani.ky Park, \'anci P.khisii Coi.iMniA ........ f lull ;l. ASS I'lUS, \'.\NrorYF.R. PjRIIISH Col.lMDIA .... .V Part OF jArANKSF. 'ri-.MPi.i;, XiKKo, Jai'an l'r|i-\'.\MA, FRciM Tin; ToKAnm ....... flMi Sl'iNF, fMAin.S, NKAR XlKKd, JaTAN Wa i-Si.-Ka r Paiwida, IIani^khk ....... Pii KMi.si; I.AiiiFS xi 'I'fa and Smukini: I.ii.ii' ON riiF. I)ar|i;i.i.ini; Railroad CoKi'^i. IN Canhis and (.'rkmaiion ON riiF Rank, Pi'.nares . Indian WoMFN w rill FcKi. MADi: oiManfrf. .... Till. 'I'aj I ROM iin Rnij;, Ai.ra PAKSKI; ToWKR 01 SlI.KNCK, RoMllAY (iRorp OF Hii.i. pFon.K OF Ckntra:. Fniiia CiOlTRAS OF [IlNI 'rFMI'I.K, ^rADl•RA TAl.ll'or PaI.M in lil.ooM, Cfyi.on iNDlA-RlKKFR TKFFS, P.VRKDF.NI YA CiARDKN, Cf.YI.ON Caiamaran I'lsiiiNc-lioAT uTi'ii OrTKi(;r;FR, Cfyi.on . .\. IIan\ AN Trkf Straddi.inc. a Road, Ciai.on .... RaMFSSFS II., KlNFIFFNTII DYNASTY. KNOWN AS SKSOSIRIS . SfcTION OF Ol.l) WaI I.. CONSTANTINOI'LK TiiK Krfmi.in,, .Moscow ... MoFNT Kazhfk FROM Station IN Caucasi's Mountains Russian " Troika" STAT.Iil R AND WoMAN ClIURNINC, IIaII ID JaF.TKR, TN TIIFI.F.M ARKFN Fl.MD.M., IROM .VasI.TRAKKFNF, IN THF TlIFI.KMAR KI'.N, XoRWAY . IIlTTFRDAL ClIURCH. ThKI.F.M.\RKFN xili ACIFIC /■'roiilisp!Ci\ \TIO ADi; 4 6 S 10 20 2(, Si) S3 92 136 170 1S4 I./, 250 262 26,^ 272 274 276 296 344 39') 406 466 5 "4 511 512- Hi i A RACE WITH THE SUN. CHAPTER I. THE START— WINNIPEG AND MANITOBA— THE CANADIAN rACIFIC RAILROAD— SCKNKKV IN THE ROCKIES, THE SELKIRKS AND ON THE FKASEK RIVER. ^'ictoria, British Coliwibia, August 3, 1887. Having resolved to make a race with the sun, around the world, it became a matter of some moment the choice of route we should pursue. We recognized the fact that Old Sol moved on a smooth and beaten track. For countless cons he had moved majestically along the same even road. No ups and downs ; no stations v/here he has to stop to take food or water; comets feed his nery chargers ; their tails, whisking around millions of miles, fan their foaming flanks ; worn-out worlds drop into their mangers to feed them, without the necessity of a halt ; asteroids and bursting meteors furnish their driver with whip-cracks with which to en- courage them to maintain their speed ; their own fiery nostrils light them along their trackless path. Countless millions of ages ago the mighty Eternal awoke them from their bcginninglcss sleep whcji His fiat, " Let there be light," reverberating through- out chaotic space, and rolling through its dark chasms and caves, echoed from its frowning crags, caught and returned from limit- less heights, was obeyed, and " Light was." Their next rest will be when comes a crash of worlds, and the same Eternal shall shout, in wrathful thunder, " It is ended." Ours was an unequal task. We knew we would be handicapped, not only from day to day, but from hour to hour ; we would have mountains to climb, valleys to span, oceans to cross, and storms and tempests to turn us from our road. We would have to pick our course through countless obstacles by day, and to feel our way among countless dangers by night. Knowing our rival would be forced to travel a .lousand miles an hour within the tropics, we determined to go far to the north, where contracted degrees would reduce our mileage to nearly half of the tropical distance. We therefore left Chicago for northern Manitoba. We ran through wooded Wisconsin, rested a few hours at ambitious St. .f J A RACE WITH THE SUN. Paul dashed througli the great -rain fields of northern Minnc- Tota e e ed he dominion^ of her mueh-jubileed Majesty, and sSed on our race at high-boomed Winnipeg, on the 50th degree, ""Cthe wi!^; the •• boom '^it the capital of Manitoba wasnot^ ulative fever, would not have been commenced for years to come. The city has many fine private buildings, a beautiful city hall, three cle<'ant fire-engine houses, several well paved streets, and a mill which turns ou't 900 barrels of Hour daily. The people resemble, in dress and movements, the thriving, bustling populatioii of our northwcstern States much more than they do the self-satisfiedand slow-looking Canucks of Ontario and eastern Canada. At night they walked about with pleasure-seeking energy, rather than the listless, slow, aimless step of those we see along the railroads which run among their brothers of the cast. Manitoba,— by the way, they lay the accent upon the " o " in- stead of on the final "a." though I suspect k to be wrong, for I was told the compound word is " Manito " " ba " (God speaks), from the Indian idea that the thunder is louder here than elsewhcr;, — -Manil oa is a grand province. From the United States bound- ary, stretching north and south about 150 miles, by 120 miles east and west, it is a splendid small-grain country. The land is not held by great individual owners or by syndicates, but in small holdings, rarely larger than a section, and generally only a half. Tln^ farms are better cultivated than in Minnesota. The fields aremu. i freer from weeds, and the crops better than any thing we saw on our way in the States, except in a small section near Crookston. Wc were told the expectation was for an average crop of 25 bushels to the acre. Some fields, we thought, in passing, would nearly touch 40. At Winnipeg we boarded the Canadian Pacific. For a considerable distance the country is perfectly flat, with a soil of great depth ; ditches will make it all finely arable. From Portage La Prairie westward the surface is undulating, often high- rolling, and for 109 miles to Virden is as beautiful prairie as one could wish to sec. North and south in this belt the same charac- teristics, we were told by a well-informed gentleman, extended from the United States line to the northern limits of the province. What cunning chaps the Hudson Bay Company people were ! For long years they told the world that this was a region only fit for fur-bearing animals. But now, since the iron horse has snatched the reins from this great cormorant, we find this mighty northwest a country capable of supporting millions of happy agricultural people. Rivers abound, running in deep-cut banks, into which the lowest and flattest land can be drained. Wood is •I "'1 It'i i our z o u < z < I 2 D O o o U3 Z < t S 4 i.u u IN MANITOBA. 3 not so far off that it cannot be had in sufificicnt quantities for domes- tic purposes, and coal-fields lie so close to the rivers that coal can be transported by water if the rail fails to do the work. In the summer season the sun pours down a flood of heat. The nights are cool now, and we were told arc always so. Years ago, when the American cry was " 54° 40', or fight," I was a Whig, and twitted the Democrats for coming down to 49*^. I now feel like still twitting my old Democratic brethren of the past for not standing up for 54° 40'. I am not very acquisitive of territory for our country, but I confess to a strong feeling that Uncle Sam ought to own from the Superior up to Alaska and on to the Pa- cific. Let it not be understood that we would do any better for the people than the Dominion is doing. They are thriving, and the Canadian Pacific Company has built a road which none of our transcontinental railroatls can surpass. It is thoroughly laid, smooth, and finely ballasted. The depots or stations are built with taste, and bridges are erected with great strength. In the far west experimental farms are worked so as to give the emigrant actual knowledge of what the soil is capable of producing. After leaving Virden the country assumes less of a prairie ap- pearance and more tiiat of a western plain, but sage-brush does not commence for a long distance, and, in fact, is light at any point 9n the road. Some 200 miles were passed by us at night when we were generally asleep, but occasionally I would look from my window, and was thus able to make a tolerably accurate survey. The twilight of this latitude is so lo ig that the traveller is enabled to see much which in more southern climes would be lost in darkness. We left Winnipeg at 9:40 a.m., on the 29th. Early on the 30th we were constantly at the windows or on the platform. Indians were occasionally seen at the sta- tions, decked in bright-colored blankets, and with faces painted as heavily as those of watering-place belles. Their " tepees " (tents) could be seen near by in groups of from four to ten. They all had for sale horns of their old friend, the buffalo. Cattle ranches are scattered over the country. Habitations, however, as we ran westward, became scarce and ranches fewer. Many lakes were passed covered with geese and duck. Sometimes we could see young broods of the latter, of the size of quail, on small streams not over twenty feet from our train. The plain was now the " coteau de Missouri," but not arid as the same plain is on the Northern Pacific road. The whole country is pleasantly green with patches of " down " diversifying the landscape. Occasionally we would see lakes with edges white with alkali running into purple water-weed. Several of the small alkali ponds were dried up and looked like plats of driven snow. The grass is short but thick, and is of the prairie kind, with a variety resembling bufTalo grass intermixed. Frequently for long stretches we would pass among bush openings, which gave a park-like appearance to the 4 A RACE WITH THE SUN. olain Several of the towns have from 400 to 800 inhabitants. Two hiuulrcd and odd miles west of Winnipeg, at a yillap named Moosomin, wc saw a lawn-tennis party and a couple of nickel-plated bicycles ridden by ambitious young men, this too m the territory of Assiniboia, north of western Dakota. _ All through the ride on the 30th we were in the region where buffalo formerly abounded. Hundreds upon hundreds of their old trails were deep furrowed into the prairie, crossing the road from south to north. What countless thousands must, year after year, have trodden in these furrows to have worn them so deep into'thc dry hard soil. Now and then their bones would fleck the prairie in white patches, and at the stations tons were ready in huge piles for shipment east, to make handles for tooth-brushes and bonc-cmst for soda fountains. It w.is sad to think of the vast numbers of these old moiiarchs of the plains wliich liad been slaughtered in mad love for killing. The poor Indians, relics of former ages, who are now living upon tlie bounty of the conquer- ing whites, do not so much arouse one's sympathies, as the wanton de'^struction of the red man's friend— the bison— awakens disgust. The Indian would not learn civili/atitm, and refused and refuses to obey the order to earn bread by the sweat of the face. They had to go for civilization's sake ; but the buffalo committed no other crime than that of being the Indian's friend, and ofafford- ing an easy target for the wanton murderer. Seventeen years ago I passed on the Union Pacific through a herd of many tliousands at Platte Station. Their beef was then jilenty and cheai) all along the plains, and millions were yearly making their annual migration. For hundreds of miles along the Canadian Pacific are the countless trails they dug into a soil almost as hard as rock as they marched, in single file, from pasturage to pasturage and from water to water. Now, it is said, there are not over one or two hundred wild buffalo in the whole land. As we fly on westward the plain becomes browner and browner, but rarely entirely loses its green, and everywhere there are damp spots where it is of brightest emerald. The great j)lains on this road have but little of the painful monotony which oppresses one for such great distances on the other Pacific roads. The rolling prairies seem to rise and fall like old ocean's swell, always the same, but ever seeming to move and vary. One can watch the swell at sea day after day and not grow weary. These plains affected me much in the same way. I could traverse them again next week with pleasure. They are always fresh to the eye. This of itself will make this a favorite route for transcontinental tourists. In the whole ride, too, we were only three or four times troubled by dust, although we rode much of the time on the rear platform. The dusty places were only of a few miles in extent. At Medicine Hat, 600 miles west of Winnipeg, we crossed the south fork of the Saskatchewan River. Here, and for a long i 3 I 4 THE CHANCELLOR, OTTER TAIL RANGE, ROCKY MOUNTAINS. CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY ■JJU- JiANFF AND ITS HOT SPRIXGS. distance, it Is a .iavi.ifablc stream sdiue 400 yarils wide. Above this place, 50 to itX) miles, are fine coal-fields. The coal looked pure, and our dinin},f-car cook assured us it was the best-cooking coal in America. Before night we should have seen the Rockies, but did not, because of the smoky atmosphere. Sixty miles from their foot lies Calgary, a town of 2.000 people, the centre of the great ranch district, where ranches with many thousands of horses abound. The grazing country is said to be very fine, and extends far south down into Montana. The plains here are very hand- some, and the bunch grass is prettily green. The land grows good wheat but better grass. At three o'clock on the morning of the 3i.st we reached the sanitarium Hanff. We stopped over a day, anil took two baths, one at tlie hot springs, temperature from ' 10^ to 120", said to have the specific virtues of the Arkuisas springs, and sought for the same class of diseases. I do no; think the bath produces the heavy sweats produced by those of Arkansas, but still I had to lie for half an iiour beft^-e I became dry enough to dress. Sev- eral hundred feet below this spring are two others, within 100 feet of eacii other. One is in a cave or grotto, about 25 feet in diameter, with a natural vaulted dome, say 30 feet high, as perfect as if cut by the hammer. It is now entered by an artificial tunnel 100 feet long, antl is lighted by a small natur.i! oiiening at the apex. In the grotto is a natatorium, surrounded by pretty stalac- tites, with water five feet deep boiling up from the sanily bottom, with a temperature of 95°. Cold water pours from a large sjiell- shapcd stalactite in sufficient quantity to make a cold shower. One can thus swim around in warm water, and then cool off his upper body, while from his waist down he is in a warm bath. A hundred feet from this is another large pool, 20 feet across, of about the same depth, and being in the open air the warm water can be seen bubbling up through the sands. Both this and the Cave springs have streams flowing from them as large as a first- class fire-engine could pump. The cave spring discharges at its outlet without coloring the soil along the rivulet, while the other makes, a white deposit. This is from a magnesiate of lime, impreg- nated with iron and sulphur. Banff is 2,400 feet above the sea, and is nestled down among mountains rising over 5,000 feet above the hotel, all of them this year with snow on their summits and far down the sides in the deep gorges. The sanitarium and hotel of the railroad is upon the bank of Bow River, a stream over 400 feet wide, of crystal clearness, slightly whitened by glacier water. The river under the hotel breaks through walls of rock two or more hundred feet high, forming a succession of cascades or r.'.pids of 60 feet fall, in say, 140 yards. The views of snow-clad n.ountains, the river, the cas- cades, and whirling pool below make the situation of the hotel one of the finest I have ever seen. Trout abound in the river of all I 6 A RACE WITH THE SUN. angline sizes. A lake-trout was brought i;. from Devil's Lake, 12 miles oft, while we were there, weighing 43 Poun^s. Banff is in the National Park of 260 square miles. With commendable wisdom, the government is building throughout the park fine roads laid out' bv skilled engineers. _ At three o'clock Monday morning we took the west-going tram, and went to bed ; but the early light made us shorten our nap, for we were in wildly grand scenery. Now we were rushing throu"-h noblo passes on the mountain sides, then under precipices lifting" thousands of feet above us. Snow-clad mountains were ever standing like grand sentinels about our way. The engine puffs and snorts as it pulls us up the steep grade. The snow gorges crawl down nearer and nearer to us. The snowy peaks seem piled one above the other far above us. The stream we have climbed gets smaller and smaller, till at Mount Stephen we ar' at the summit. 5.300 feet above the sea, while above us lift the might\- rocky sides of the mountain, its peak almost over our head, 8,200 foot abo\ e the rail. The Bow River here begins in a little lake, while close by in a swamp is the fountain of the Kick- i'lg Horso, down whose can^'ons wc must go for many a mile. Hue starts the former, whose waters flow far away into Hudson's Bay. There, almost within a stone's throw, starts the other to carry Stephen's icy waters into the Pacific. Hour after hour wc whirl along, in ever-rapid curving, down the .canyon. Lofty mountains arc on either side in vast ]:)reci])ices. Wc look up upon snow, now and then hardened into a glacier; we look down from the rock-cut terrace, along which we bound, and sec a stream of moving foam, now in cascade, then in rapids, never still enough to lose its snowy froth. Hour after hour we are in scenes of grandeur and beauty. I say beauty, for the white snow, the foaming waters, the green trees—these are beautiful, while the mountains, with their frowning precipices, their rocky pinnacles piercing the blue sky, are grand. For 60 miles it is the same wonderful scenery. Our little creek has become a river, nar- row, but pouring towards the sea nearly as much water as flows down the Ohio at ordinary summer stage. At 9 o'clock our rushing, roaring river has emptied into the Columbia, which has come up from the United States with its milk-white glacier flood. It rolls in rapid current towards the north, washing the foot of Mount Brown 20 miles away. It will bend westward beyond the Selkirk range, at whose western base we will cross it again, after having steamed nearly a 100 miles through yet grander scenery. U'e cross the river ; wc look back and see the towering Rockies. We look forward and no great way off lift the Selkirks. The ascent commences at once ; first up the Beaver, which near the Columbia passes through a gate one can scarcely believe to be of nature's fashioning. Two vertical slate precipices, only a few feet thick, lift themselves up t -# flows ito the ith its •ds the ay. It cstein a lOO A'c look and no once ; ou<^h a Two lives up Ul I tn UJ I o f^' vi SCENERY IN THE S ELK IRKS. like the framework of a portcullis, through which the little river rushes. A door 20 feet wide, set against the gateway, would stop the whole stream. Up this river, and then up Bear Creek we climb. The river is at first a few feet beneath us. Up we go. The river is a 100, then 400, then 1,000 feet below. Still up, till far be- low us — 2,000 feet — now through timber, and then over the tops of lofty firs, we see the stream winding through marshy grass, which one of us insists is a wheat-field. VVe seem to hang on the mountain's side. Now the road runs through tunnels ; then it is timbered out over precipices. We are soon in the heart of the mountains; far up their sides, till the snow and rocks are met, arc magnificent forests of pine and fir, with stems as straight as arrows. I said we were in the moun- tains' heart. I was too quick. We soon will be, for we break through a pass between two peaks clad in eternal snow. The snow is nearly down to our level, which is here 4,300 feet above the sea. See yonder white precipice ; it is the foot of a mighty glacier, luindrcds of feet thick, and pushed down in hardened stream from the upper peak yet far above and beyond its brow. The scenery now is grand beyond the power of language to paint. One glacier frowns upon another. To our right we pass tlie sum- mit, and two miles on we reach the Glacier House, a Swiss chalet, in front of which are pretty fountains throwing up icy jets ; and apparently a few hundred yards away to our left, is a monster glacier, with its foot not much above the level of the road. With a glass we see mighty fissures cracking its surface. It bends over the mountain like a falling curtain. We are told it is a mile and a half wide, nine miles long, and 500 feet deep. Mount Sir Donald is watching its slow descent. Far above the snow, his peak, shaped like a diamond drill, pierces the blue sky 6,000 feet above us. We have to bend our heads back to look at his pinnacle. The de- scent is now down a silvery thread, called the Illecillewact River. It tumbles in cascades, and as it tumbles it grows. We get down hill by making iron loops. One could pitch a marble from the window upon the track below, which we will reach after bending as on the link of a chain. After a while the little silver thread has become a foaming stream, then a rushing river, so strong that it cuts its way between two perpendicular cliffs in a canyon appa- rcnll}- not over 25 feet wide, but several hundred feet deep. The river springs through this like a madman in a leap then foams along for miles below. At last, after a run of seventy odd miles through the Selkirk's, we emerge from them and cross the Columbia, a stream greatly grown since we saw it last 100 miles back. After a while we enter another system of mountains — the Gold range. The scenery in these would be glorious, but we are satiated with grandeur, and are more delighted by the beautiful lakes, along whose margins we run, than by the heights above us. A RACE WITH THE SUN. After leaving this range, wc arc upon waters which empty into the Frazcr River. Before night we pass several beautiful lakes. One of them, the Shuswap, is of very considerable extent ; we run alono- its shores for over 50 miles. Its width vanes from one to four o'r five miles. Peaks 2,000 to 3.000 feet high lift them- selves above its waters, now by steep ascent, then by sloping benches. Its waters are said to be full of fish ; we frequently saw them rising. The next morning we were upon the Trazer. Here wc had a different character of scenery from any before seen. The road runs along the bank of the river, perhaps loo feet above the water, nearly all the time upon ledges cut into the rock or upon the steeply descending sides of the mountains. Wc must have gone through 30 tunnels, in length from a few hundred feet to several hundreil yards, all cut through solid granite. The river runs tiirough rocky canyons at the foot of mountains lifting 2,500 to 4,000 feet. P lany of them were of bare rock, others beau- tifully treed. Behind these immediately along the river arc yet higher peaks, more or less flecked with snow. Laughing brooks and foaming streams are frecjuently crossed, coming down gorges in bounding cascades. The Frazer is a mighty river of white water rising 500 miles away among ranges covered with eternal snows. It is joined where we struck it b\- the Thompson, itself a noble stream. It flows in turbulent current, now several hundred yards wide, then cutting its way through rocky doors not over 100 feet from jamb to jamb. Often for miles it rushes in fall almost as fast as a cataract. Below each fall it whirls in angry pools ; on nearly all the ledges jutting over these pools are frames of light wood, on which the Indians' winter supply of salmon hangs like red tobacco in a southern field. Indians are seen perched on projecting ledges, scooping with a net, shaped like a tennis bat, for finny beauties. Their fishing huts arc on nearly every green spot. Here and there is seen a Chinese washing a little gold from the sands. High on the opposite side of the river runs the road built 28 years ago by the government to the Carabo mines, 400 miles away. It often runs at dizzy heights and is so narrow that the stage-coach passengers must have been in constant alarm — that is. if they were other than gold-seekers. For these fellows would have ridden the devil barebacked, and never felt a tremor, if the dust was at the journey's end. For 60 odd miles we ran in and out of rock-hewn tunnels, over trestles, along ledges cut from the solid rock, and over terraces built from many feet below. The rushing river was ever some 50 to 200 feet below us, while high over our heads and frowning from the opposite side of the canyon the steep mountains lifted themselves to a height varying from 2,500 to perhaps 4,000 feet. They were often rocky but- tresses, their steep slopes covered with pines and firs. This canyon is alone worth the trip, and, while it lacks the awful grandeur 1 .« z < ill O X a o 'T- ^ M t i' i 1 1 )!m i'f THE FRAZER RIVER. g of the glaciercd peaks of the Rockies and Selkirks, yet, being always so close to us, is more terrible and startling. After leaving it we ran through forests of giant cedars — cedars two to five feet in diameter. But, sad to say, these noble trees a good part of the time stood like blackened spectres, and often were but lofty stumps five or six to 30 feet high. What wild havoc the firc-ficnd has been for years, and yet is, making in the vast forests of the Pacific slope ! The air in the Selkirks was blue with smoke, and so it was from their base to the end of the road. The air even here on the south side of Vancouver Island is still hazy. From our windows we ought to be able to sec Mount Baker's snowy crest, far to the southeast, and the Olympian mountains, only some 30 or 40 miles to the southwest. In- stead of that, high hills only ten miles away are dimly seen as bluish masses above the horizon. Millions of trees, such as would be the admiration of people east of the Mississippi, are now burn- ing ; millions upon millions of acres have been within the last five years stripped of valuable forests, which east of the Rockies would be worth many times more than all the gold produced within these years on the whole Pacific coast, and yet many of the fires which have destroyed such vast wealth have been started by mining prospectors. They burn certain wealth not their own above the ground, in the hope of finding uncertain signs of riches which may become their own, but is now hidden beneath the surface. And now from this beautiful land, where winter never freezes and summer never parches ; where, though eight degrees north of Chicago, the honeysuckle embowers the verandas and the rose- bush is a small tree in the garden ; where the cherries are nearly as large as plums, and the red raspberry is a pulpy monster; where the young pine makes a good fishing-pole, and the fir is taller than the mast of the largest ship ; where cedars are mon- sters, and the balm of Gilead is like a big cotton-wood ; — from this anomalous clime, good-morning. «aii T CHAPTER II. TTMBER-rROnUCTIONS AN1> riXUl-lAKITIES OF OREGON AND WASmNGTON-1-OKKST-KIRES AND SMOKE-SCENERY OF THE COIA-MTIA. Green River, Hot Springs, IV. T., August 14, 1887. PUGET Sound is one of the world's marvels. It lies like a mighty antlcrcd formation. Its inlets and arms, running 20 to 60 miles fnto the land, are never more than four or five miles broad and are often not over a half mile, with a depth varying from 50 feet to hundreds of fathoms. The deep Nvater comes up close to the shore, and oftentimes sheer up, so that the largest man-of- var could tie to a forest tree whose roots are watered by the ocean's brine. By the way. why is it that in the hast the salt water of the sea prevents trees from growing anywhere near the shore while out here the lower limbs of great trees are touched at hioh tide^ The sound has but few harbors, because anchorage is rarely to be had. Tlie longest cable will not permit an anchor to reach bottom, and the tides will not let a ship tie to the shore. At Tacoma the difference between low and high tide is over ^o feet. At the mouth of the Strait of Fuca it is less than five feet ; but the tidal waves press into the narrow sound and lift themselves up to nearly 30 feet in some of the inlets. The meeting of the tides creates heavy, angry breakers. Seattle and Tacoma are the great rival towns of the sound. The discrimination against vhc former by the Northern Pacific Railroad has made the dislike of Tacoma by the average Seattlean something absolutely interesting. She is*-ying to get even, how- ever, and' will soon have a road built along the east shorcof the sound, to tap the Canadian Pacific near Vancouver, and will ulti- mately cross the mountains to meet the Manitoba road, which is expected to enter Helena this year, and will then stretch out for the sound. The trade of this region with the East will before long become great, and the northwest of our land will offer greater commercial attractions than does the orange-growing southwestern California. There " the orange and citron is fairest fruit." But here the mighty forests, which cover the lowlands as densely as the jungles of the tropics, and climb the mountains until the snow-line is met, can furnish the world with timber for centuries. But, unfortu- nately, the people, while proud of their grand trees, seem to think IP I I HERMIT MOUNTAIN, ROUERS' PASS. CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. T !■ I 1 \ i ;. I I I ill m f THE TIMBER SUPPLY OF PUGET SOUND. II them inexhaustible, and are each year burning in sheer wantonness a half-century's supply. It is calculated that over a hundred square miles of forest will be burnt this season. The lumbermen, who ought to regard them as their great wealth-producers, do not seem at all distressed at this terrible destruction, for they say that fin-s do not destroy the timber, but simply kill the trees. And that, after being killed, they remain sound for several years' consumption, while tlie loggers get the logs out much easier after the undergrowth has been burnt. This is a selfish feeling, especially as it is known that if a forest be thoroughly burnt j-oung pines and cedars do not spring up in the future. It is the exception on this coast when young forests follow a fire. The summers here are so dry that the delicate seeds of the evergreen do not germinate as they would if rains were even moderately frequent. The seeds cannot grow as they would if protected by dense shades. The soil is burnt up. The trees are so enormously large and their roots extend so close to the surface, that after a fire there is nothing left but ashes from four to six inches deep. No one who has not gone through the forests of this coast can have any idea of the enormous amount of timber growing upon a given surface. An old army officer told us he had to make calculations as to the number of feet stand- ing upon some land, and fixed it at 200,000 feet of sawed lumber jjer acre, and that, too, where the trees were not large. We have now had a good opportunity for seeing some of the heaviest forests. We have fished along three streams, and have found out by experience the great labor necessary to get through the wood along water courses. The close proximity of one tree to another, and their vast height, is simply marvellous. The roots of one mingle with the roots of its neighbor. The trunks stand four to six feet in diameter, and nearly 300 feet in height, and could furnish saw-logs 180 to 230 feet long. I yesterday ran mj- fishing-line arouml a cedar six feet from the ground, and found it to be over 31 feet in circumference, or over ten feet in diameter. There was another, not ten feet away, which was over six feet in diameter. On the opposite side of the creek, on the steep slope of a foothill, were some 20 acres of pines of vast height, all three to five feet in diameter, and so close together that they seemed almost a solid mass. To reach the stream where we intended to commence fishing, we had to cross about a quarter of a mile of bottom land, over which a heavy wind had passed last year. The enormous trees were thrown about in vast confusion. I walked along a huge log to its upper end, and the weedy undergrowth appeared so solid at the side that I supposed it was only a few inches deep. I stepped ofT the log, which, as I thought, was there a foot thick, and on the ground, when, lo ! I sank up to my shoulders in dense growth. When fishing yesterday, our guide at a certain point T 't '|!i ' I i! (!■• I 13 ./ A'./r/; //77V/ ry/A .sxw. arc fi^ui.iiiK-1' ""^ - - - able tliiin a trout in a stream. Wlicii I i;ot home they were not there. I supposed our ^niide would brii^i,^ tliem in. Presently he arrived without them. Dusk and then dark came on. I wa.s alarmed. Their whole fishin^'-Ljround from bridi^e to hotel, which is on the bank of the river, was not in extent a mile. The f,aii(le and I went up the railroad, and hallooet! as louI.()|'i: — \K' 1 ORIA AM) ESQUIMAUI.r— CKEEN RIVER— HOT Sl'KINllS AM) TROi: T. Victoria, B. C, August 21, 1887. There is the home of a great future population in the north- west ; I think I c.in see into the future, guided by what history tells of the dense populations of the far past, that there will some day be a great people in the cool northwest — greater than in hot and dry California or in the more inhospitable regions just east of the Rockies. Here in the vallejs and on the bulk of the plains is an inexhaustible soil, which yields when irrigated, and in many parts without irrigation, returns unknown in any other section of the civilized world. This soil is practicall}' ine.xhaustible ; the loam of the valleys is often over 100 feet deep ; the earth of the l)l.iins seems to be a sort of volcanic ash, rich in all the ingreilients which make the kernels of wheat and other cereals. On the railro.id embankments one frequently sees stools of oats as rich and green as is grown on an old stable yard. At (ireen River hot springs, growing on the road-bed, which resemblctl ashy clay, we counteil 226 berry-pods of oats on a stool from a single seed, :ind 18 stalks from a timothy stool. The bank was eight feet above the level of the land, and the soil composing the road- bed was taken from a deep cut. There are millions of acres easily to be irrigated. The mountains will furnish wood and timber for all times, and in their bowels are all kinds of minerals. In the vast depths of the sounds, bays, and inlets are the resorts of the count- less finn)- tribes of earth's greatest ocean. I lere the fish come in from the sea in endless profusion, and all of them thoroughly fitted for food for man. Harbors abound, capable of holding the fleets of the world. And all along the coast from Fuca Strait up to Alaska are fiords of vast depth running parallel to the ocean and constantlx- open- ing into it by safe inlets, along which cheap steamers can go from ])oint to point without the danger of ever encountering a storm which an Ohio craft may not meet. The Indian of Alaska comes to Tacoma in his dug-out canoe with his whole family, and with as little risk as one could run on a small river. The largest shi ) can steam in these inlets and salt rivers, without ever hitting upoi. an unseen danger. There are no shoals and no hidden rocks; and 19 jg A MACE WITH THE SUN. 1 vessel can lay its broadside sheer up against the shore any- whe^:? with no other danger than that of abras.on when hfted or '"^^ft. whole northwest is of so grand a character that eve'y thing east of the Rockies is comparatively tame. I do S mean to detract from the beauties of our own sect.on. V o here IS not a hill anywhere which does not furmsh. to my eye, a ine of beauty. There is not a flowery prana- or a wavmg field of ain which does not give delight. There .s not a gurglmg r.vule Tvhi h does not sing in tones far sweeter than those of the most !'ifted diva. But here there is more of >t all. and on so stupen- dous a scale, that ours are to them what .a parlor melody is to a grand chorus, or the eolia singing among the pme needles is to the craiul artillery of the storm. I look out of the window every few moments from m> ,viitin- table, and the low mountains of this island present to the eves rPs f^ne outlines and as green and beautiful foothills as one can' find anvwhere in the AUeghanies ; and yet these mountains are bi>t pi• I i d ■ ,t ;!, A REMARKABLE CLIMATE. n does not intend, without a struggle, to abandon liritish America. The Cormorant has just come out of dock. And the sullen, dangerous-looking iron-clad Trhiviph, from which floats the admiral's pennant, lies close by. We rowed out to see this great ship. She is now a fifth-rate, but a few years ago was considered an invulnerable monster. She has in her waist a sort of fort in which are 14 huge guns, which could soon destroy any of our fortifications, and her deck has long, small, many bullet-throwing guns to rake an enemy's deck, some of them carrying a rifle-ball 3,000 yards. We were politely received and entertained in the ward-rc)om by the captain and several lieutenants. This is the head-cjuartcrs of the Pacific squadron, and the admiral, who cruises from Alaska to Cape Horn, appreciates the variety of climates his cruising ground affords him. He winters about the equator and enjoys this glorious climate in the summer. Heads of elk, mountain sheep, goats and deer surround his cabin, and rugs of many kinds of skins, the trophies of his own hunting excursions, prove him to be a hunter of the mountains as well as of the seas, and that he is as ready to bring down the denizen of the woods as his calling makes him to destroy man. The dock here has cost over a million, and the ships and stores of all kinds in this navy yard cost many millions. Will this ever be ? Is man by his nature so pugnacious that these preparations for killing must ever exist? Here in the torpedo house was a torpedo boat, and another in the harbor, ready to destroy the unwary. Each fish-looking torpedo, of which there are many, cost about 82,500. This is but one of the many establishments be- longing to England, and every nation has its own. And all for the purpose of destroying him who we are told was made in God's image I What is, is right. Man was made by his Maker and not by the devil. There is but one God, and the only devil lives in the hearts of his creatures. He intended it, and it is right. If man did not kill his fellow-men he would so increase and multiply that he would after a while do as the fishes of the sea — eat each other. So he is permitted to kill in the name of liberty and of religion to keep him from killing for meat. The climate of this great region is to an eastern man even more remarkable than its productions. The thermometer rarely falls much below the freezing-point at Victoria, or anywhere west of the Cascade range, and while tlie days are warm in summer they are never hot, and so far at night we have required at least two blankets throughout this month. Every cottage is covered with honeysuckle or some climbing plant, which in the Chicago parks have to be laid and covered in winter. And the ivy seems as flourishing as at Washington City. There it is sometimes killed by frost. Here it never is. A gentleman told me that at Seattle he had gathered out-door roses during every month of the year. The strawberry blooms early in April and the wild fruit is nearly • it' <1 n 1 M> 22 y^ A'/^c^ ;r/7v/ rj//-: srjv. as large as our ordinary cultivated ones. Along the coast and up to the heights of ilu; Cascades in Washington Territory and the Selkirks in Ikitish L'tlunibia the air is full of humidity, except during the summer months. Kast of the Cascades it is generally very dry. When we were or. the Columbia at the mouth of Snake River, Iwasama/.etl to find the thermometer, about 3 o'clock, over 100 in the shade. Tiie air was so drj- and free from all sul- triness, that I did not feel the heat as being oppressive. On the treeless plains, and among the whe.it fields of Walla Walla, it rarely ever rains in summer, is never damp, yet. sjtrange to tell, the peojjle suffer greatlv from rheumatisin. Judge Lang- ford, whom we met at the Green River hot springs, tUclared he considerctl his locality (Walla Walla) to be the natural home of the tiread disease. The summer liryness explains, probably, why we saw no mos(|uitoes in Oregon or Wasiiington TL-rritory, while all the way from the eastern entrance to the Rockies, on the Canadian Pacific, clear down to the co.ist, the pests kept us fight- ing every evening, when the train would stop for a few moments. We are now thinking of going back upon the road to spend the time until the 25th. A gentleman wlm has just returned from Harrison hot springs, about Co miles west of Vancouver, sa}'s the mos(]uito has been terrible. I'^xen at Glacier House, in the Selkirks, nearly 5,000 feet above the sea and right under the huge glacier, some of our passengers were deterred from .stopi)ing overnight, because they were so bad. and these were, as j-ct, no bars in the house. And yet we fished in Washington Terri- tory along several streams, some of them but a little above the sea level, anil at hot springs, 1,400 feet up, and did not once .sec enough mosquitoes to anno)' u^ It will be. or ought to be. grateful information to our tjood ladies who battle so hard against the little pests of the bed, and think they are the representatives of slovenliness, to learn that, in the l^Iue IMountains. east of Walla Walla, if one leans against a fir tree for a little while he will get the brutes on him. ' And this in the clear, pure air of the pine woods. We spent two days at the hot springs on Green River, in W^ashington Territory. The water issues from a narrow fissure, or, rather, seam, in the rock, which is a sort of trap. The seam runs at an angle, perhaps of 25 degrees, and for several humlred feet the hot water runs out in small streams, and near the sani- tarium is sufficiently large to furnish enough for 50 to 100 bath- tubs, and is elevated on the right bank of the rapid river suffi- ciently to give a good fall to the hotel on the opposite side on a bottom stretch, which is covered by monster trees. These have been killed by fire and are now by slow tiegrees being cleared up. It cost Si 50 V^^' •■^cie to clean up one of tliese forests to fit it for cultivation or for grass. I said the burning of the forests absolutely burnt the soil. r i NORTHERN PACIFIC SWITCHBACK. 23 t and up and the , except ciierally ^[ Snake ock, over all sul- if Walla ;jtran;j;e :jc Lan^- lared he lonie of )ly, why ry, while s. on the : us fit^ht- nonients. pend the lied from \er, saj's ;e, in the nder tlie slojjpinj^" [, as yet, ow Terri- d)o\e the once see our <^ooil bed, and jarn that, ns against im. And Kivcr, in \v fissure. The seam 1 hundred the sani- 100 bath- •iver sufifi- side on a hese have :learcd up. o fit it for t tlie soil. fiiKlni!^ we and that below it was raining. This statement requires a supplemental one. The first burning only kills the trees. It is the second burning or clearing fire which consumes the roots and soil. The fir and pine, as well as the cedar, send out roots immediately under the surface. These, a year or so after being killed, burn like peat earth, and in the clearing fire the interlaced roots, and apparently the whole loamy soil is turned to ash. If the projjrietors of these hot springs had capital they would soon make the place a favorite resort for those seeking health and pleasure. Hundreds of invalids now flock to it, and, I was told by themselves, to their very great benefit. We certainly enjoyed ourselves much, with the baths, the simple fare, and the trout fishing in the rapid river. The place is a few miles below the celebrated switch-back of the Xorthern Pacific, which here plunges over the Cascade Mountains by a succession of switches running zig-zag back and forth at a dizzy height among the clouds. Johnny called my attention, while going over this j)art of the ro.ul to the tlense fog, ami was (juite amazed when were running through a clout The zig-zag system of switch-road is a tem])orary makeshift, costing some §300,000 to hold the land grant, while a great tunnel is being bored. When finished it will be the next long- est one in America. It looks startling to sec our huge locomo- tive — weighing, with tender, 104 tons — puffing and blowing far above us at the head of our train, while below another was tug- j,'iig and j)ushing. In a little while this would be changed, our own engine wouKl be pushing us, while behind the other mon- ster would be pulling. We C(ndd but feel ; (lOil help us if one of the giants should lose eitlur wind or muscle, for then we would soon dash down into eternity. This is a fine pass for the tourist to go over and affords a delightful sensation. It will be lost when the safer tunnel shall pierce the mountain, and thus save this, to me, agreeable, if dan- gerous trip. The Green River is splendid fishing ground, imd one can soon fill a basket, some of the beauties weigh'ii.; several pounds. They are caught of all lengths, from four o; 1 • inches up to two feet. We were quite surprised to find these entirely different from the bnwk trout of the east. It is rather a small, dwarfed salmon, is flatter, and lacks the huge mouth of our trout, and also lacks the thin, transparent cartilage, which makes the mouth of those of a New I^ngland brook. A trout in the east can pretty nearly swallow a fish of its own size. Not so here. Nor have these the delicious flavor which I thought, as a young angler, made this fish the height of good living. To-night we shall steam over to Vancouver; it takes eight hours. Thence we will take a run up the road, until the arrival of the Partliia, before we again start on our race with the sun. I CMAPTKR V. A RUN HACK INTO THE SKI.KIKKS ON A LOCOMOTIVK— (ll.AClKKS AND AVALANIIIKS— SIAMKSK I'KINCKS— SCKNKK V AT CI.ACIKK IIOI'SK. Vancouro; //. C, Aiii^usi 27, 1887. My letters are manifold copies of my journal, made as I write my ideas, which are formed hastily in luirrying from place to place. I must not be held as to the accuracy of some o' my statements, nor as to the duration of impressions made up- ly mind by what I see or hear. In my last I stated that my star had set, and I was no n-.^er lucky, because I had lost my trip to Alaska. V>\\i I picked up my star aj^ain. On the 2 1st we left Victoria for this place, to find what the Canadian Pacific people would do with us until the Partltia should sail, and also to try to find our letters, which we were sure good friends at home had written us, but none of which had been forwanled. Letters were found, and Mr. Van Home, the soul of this j^reat continental road, who happened to be just arrived, i^ave us transportation to the heart of the Selkirks, 420 miles back, at Glacier House. VVc abandoned our fi;,hing excur- sion to Harrison hot springs, and boarded the train for a longer visit to the great glaciers. We were handsomely entertained aboard the private car of Messrs. Edwin Walker, of Chicago, and Easton, of La Crosse, who were returning, with their families, from Alaska, and are all full of its glories. They ruide us full of substantial good things, while proving that Seward was his coun- try's benefactor when he gave §7,000,000 for the northwest cor- ner of this continent. The mountains along the Frazer River are now absolutely shrouded in smoke, and we all congratulated ourselves that we had come down the great canyon over three weeks before, when it was not so dense. We coi'id now scarcely see the higher part of the foothills, less than a n.ile away. The upper ranges were covered and unseen. But tne gorges of the river were as grand as ever. We passed through the Gold range and entered well into the .Selkirks before the pall was lifted. From Rivalstoke, on the Columbia, I rode on the locomotive with jolly Billy Barnfather. May his face never be less round. A few good Havanas made him as good a fellow as ever strode an iron horse. A ride on a locomotive has to me always a fasci- . f RIDE ON A LOCOMOTIVE. H , 1887. i I write place to le o'' my I p. \y nation. Rut in a t,'nind mountain country, around countless curves, over lofty trestles, upon the ragged edge of fearful preci- pices, and over deep gorges -such a ride is really glorious. We had to climb up 2,700 feet in about 30 miles. Our horse, with his tender, weighed nearly lOO tons. How he would puff and snort, and sometimes almost plunge, to drag after him Ids mighty load. One riding upon him, after a while, almost loses his own identity, and becomes a part of the huge monster. Look- ing forward upon the rails, merely silvery lines drawn upon the road-bed, we forget these are any tling more than marks to guide us on our way. The locomotive bends to the right or left like a drunken man as we rush along the curves, and one feels like a drunken man, who mil walk straight if he wishes, but finds it pleasant to totter and zig-zag, so it be done not from necessity but from agreeable volition. The rails ar^ but lines to guide, not to control. And so, on we rush, never ([uitting the line a hair's- breadth. Yonder is a monster barrier of rock right in our track. Who "s afraid ? At it we rush headlong, and bore a tunnel through the mass. See yon foaming stream, far down in a dark gorge. We rush across it on a trestle as light as gauze-work, and never tremble because of its being so fragile. How we careen and climb I We reach a little level track. We spin along it with a loud scream, and stop at a station as still as if we never knew a motion. Miners and .oad-workers gather about our side, and, while they admire, we are as quiet as a lamb, conscious of our power. At last we reach the presence of eternal ice. We have been three hinirs climbing a little over 40 miles. At Glacier House we bid adieu to our friends in the private car, and, although dead .igainst monopol)-, 1 cannot help feeling that it is not a bad thing to be a railroad magnate, and rather doubt if I would burn my jialace on wheels if one should ever happen to be given me. Alaska may be grand, but when sitting on the piazza of the beautiful little chalet hotel, called the Glacier House, and watch- ing the sun climbing the mountains a. id rose-tinting the snows which lie like a light mantle about these loft)' heights, and look- ing u|) at the great glacier with its crevices of delicate green, and the gray peaks of cc^ld rock which pierce the fjlue vault of heaven, and hearing the mighty roar of the snow-white cataract, which tumbles over 1,000 feet down the precipitous foothills a few hundred yards before me ; when I sit in this wonderful val- ley, nested down among huge mountains on every side, no outlet to be seen, the lower mountain slopes covered with eternal snows, and the gray rocks above the snows, these mon- .ster peaks so nearly covering me that I must bend back my head to look at them, — then I do not envy any one seeing other sights ; these are enough for me, and I scarcely regret that our ship had not come. It is a delightful thing to sit at Interlaken as the sun sinks and "a H; \ a6 A RACE WITH THE SUN. paints the pure brow of the Jiingfrau — Switz .Tland's pride and <^lory. But thtic the Unpolluted Maiden is so far ofT that we cannot become familiar with her. Here the mountains are so close, that a bee-line drawn from wiierc I sit- would reach lofty peaks and ragged brows in every direction, at distances varying from two or'^tlirce to perhaps six- or eight miles. These mighty heights are lifted a mile to a mile and a quarter higher than the road-bed. The train from the east, meeting ours at Glacier House, brought Prince Devawongse and his nephews, the little prince- lings of Siam, and their suites. After a good dinner, we were all soon in single file, and armed with improvised alpenstocks, off for the great glacier which hangs over the head of the valley, and runs down it nearly or quite a mile at a slight elevation above our hotel. The newly cut pathway through dense forests and woody dcbri' broui^iil down by avalanches, and over rough bridges span- ning the foaming torrent, which issues from the glacier foot and flows down the valley, is more picturesque than easily trodden. The glacier, where we stood under it, was perhaps i2o tcet deep. Rushing from ice caves are several torrents which we calculated were bearing down fifty odd thousand cubic feet jier minute, thus showing the great size of the snow or ice field above. At one place our whole party of over 20 entered a beautiful grottn. large enough to hold twice the number. yVbove and around us were ceilings and walls of emerald green. The Siamese kept up such a din, that we feared their voice would cause masses of ice to tumble in upon us. In .Switzerland guiiles forbid loud talking in such grottos. We made them finally un- derstand this. We all cut and ate of the pure crystals, one of us remarking they may have been formed more than a century ago. No one has yet measured the speed of descent of this frozen stream. The ice we were eating ma\- have fallen as snow before Washington cut the cherry tree, or even before Columbus made an egg stand on end. It was very pure and cold enough to be very old. The little fledgelings of .Siamese loy^'lty were wontler- fuUy delighted, and, like boys, begar, to cut steps into the sloping side of the glacier to try cO climb it. I'\)r this purpose one of their party had provided himself with a hatchet at the hotel. The Lask, however, was abandoned when, in a half-hour, the) had readied only a few feet \\\ the w.iy, this is a very intelligent lot of y\siatic^ . The brother of the king speaks Tnglish with considerable purity, and the '.-oung princes well. They all have charming manners, and seem fond of fun. They are to sail on the ParlJiiu, and we may find theui not only agreeable but valupble co-voyagers in the event we should conclude to visit Siam. If tlie prince will prom- ise us a genuine elephant hunt, we will do it. Willie, wh.j is of an anibitious turn, talks of falling in love with a Siamese princess, but johnny says " no Siamese in mine." pride and iff that we re so close, afty peaks ying from t>- heights road-bed. ■r House, tie prince- e were all :ks, off for 'alley, and above our ind woody dires span- ;r foot and y trodden. ^ 1 20 feet nts which ;ind cubic now or ice ) entered a :r. Above ■een. The icc'- would ;inci guides finally un- ., one of us nitury ago. this frozen tiow bef<5re nbus made ough to be :re wonder- the sloping Lnp( se one ; the hotel, r, tliL) had tic-. The purity, and mners, an"d nd we may ^rers in the : will prom- :, who is of se princess, DOUGLASS FIRS, VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA, I I |il ii I A VALANCHES. »1 Two miles up the road from the Glacier House is the summit of the road in the Selkirk range. Here, from a small snowy gorge, run the silvery streams which carry the waters to the east and to the west. The one to the west becomes the Illeciliwaet River, which, until it reaches the Columbia, is always a rapid mountain torrent, affording the sightseer constant delight by its cascades and deep canyons. The time is not far distant when tourists will seek this locality as they now do the old scenery of Switzerland. When one first sees the inclosed valley about this station, he is not as much pleased by it as he will be after several days' sojourn among its mountain fastnesses. Ho has entered it through so much grand scenery, and his eye has become so accustomed to nature's majestic works, that he looks upon this as simply a part of the whole. Hut, after sleeping a night, he looks out in the gniy morning upon the cold peaks, and then watches until the sun begins to scatter delicate rose tints upon the snow-fields, and after a while to ligliten up the old glacier, then he sees the surrounding objects as a unit, and takes it in as one of the rare spots to be visited and enjoyed. Walk in any direction for miles, and the roar of cataracts is never absent, — scarcely has the sound of one died out before another is heard. Tliere are a half-dozen which give out the decj) bass undertones of a great fall. We can stuil\- in the Selkirks the working;- nf the avalanche better than in any other locality I have visited. The tracks of hundreds can be seen from tiie railro"). Tlie fall of snow is enormous. The air coming from the ot o\'cr the Cascades and Gold range is surcharged with moisture. .irtlier wc^t it is con- densed into rain. Mere it becomes snow, ami tlv fall is very great, some winters we were told, reaching ::c<. or 40 feet. It becomes piled in vast masses upon the mountain lieights. The sun in February and March pours down great heat. It is aided by the chenook winds, and loosens the snow masses in the upper gorges. Down the snow rushes in avalanclve, reaching, it is calculated, at times a speed of 100 miles per hour. The largc-t timber is cut close to the ground or torn up b>- the roots. It sweeps into the valley, piling its debris of rocks and trees to a height of man)' feet. It sweeps to a considerable distance up the slopes across the valley ; but its ilestruction is not confined to the space the slide covers, for the rushing wind, pushed ahead of the descending mass, strikes the trees on the hill opposite and mow.i them down far above the foot of the avalanche. One can see many acres covered with upturned trees, all lying with their tops up-hill, as regularly as if they had fallen before the axe of skilled choppers. We saw one of these places stripped by the \vind covering many acres, the upper limit on a very steep foot- hill being fully a (juarter of a mile above the valley! Often the foothills have been denuded of trees for the width of a mile — not the effect of one snow-slide, but of those of many years. The young I m '-$. , I 1 ' I 38 A RACE WITH THE SUN. trees and shrubs covering the stripped avalanche-tracks varying in age from one to ten or many more years. In some places the second "rowth has become quite fair timber. The slide cuts a swath through the forest as sharp and well-dffined as the track of a mower's scythe. One sees the old forests cut down to a line as strai- lie down upon one of the great greyhounds between New York' and Liverpool. Our captain told me of a thing which illustrates the dangers run even upon these well-managed monsters. One of the most famous ones was several da\-s without an obscrvati. . v~)n this account she was held down southward. .She was thought to be south of Ireland. Officers were w.itching at night for'stars- one of them was startled by seeing through a rift in the clouds a planet rising off the beam, whereas it should have come up over bow. Presently he saw, what he thought, the north .star; th THE NEW CAPTAIN. 31 ordinary, fficient to c lau^h- lour after ever L,^ro\v cross tile i;,nnation in endless same, yet roll will ;csti\c of onieiit to As one keep tlie oui^lit free lan — hope hanL,re, yet 1 Constant en of rest, lath he is e\en tenor rest w hich ties, hears the l)n/.z- L.' niorninLj ties in the they chase )ini; — his is entful in a e walks of ish at^ainst blackened ler, there is e is ever a ia)- win in )aclus it. ;iie sort of n they lie ^'ork and itrates the L)ne of the iti. .. v^n 'hoii^iit to : for stars; c clouds a ne up over orth .star; took an observation, and, on calculation on the basis that this was the jiolestar, found the ship off the Scottish coast, and near 400 miles north of where they supposed her to be. The clouds passiiiL^ off proved tiie observation to be correct. Her course was ciianii^ed, and none but the owners ami oiTicers ever knew what a wild race the greyhound had run. Tlie ship's metallic frame and W(Mks had set the compass wild. When we returned to X'ancouver from our run back into the mountains to sail in the Parthia we found slie could not be ready before the 29th. The hotels of the town are very poor, ami the fine new house of the Canadian Pacific Railroad Company will not be finished for some months. \Vc therefore resolved to make a iiotel of the ship. On .^oinj^ to the state-room assit;ned us we found it small and far aft, wliereas our room on the Initavia, beiuL; one of the best, we were entitled to one of the best on this ship, wiiicii had been substitutetl for tlie other. We positively refused to accept the assii:fnincnt, but put our ba!^t:[age in one of the better rooms, which we were told w.is held for the .Siamese princes. The shore officer, wiio is char-^'ed with i^ettinj.; the ships of this line ready for sea, was sent for. He conceded the justice of our demand, but said he could do nothing; until the new caji- tain should reach there from the east. He promised, however, if we would rest (piiet he would see that wc should he thorouL^hly satisfied. Under this assurance we each took a ljoolI r(joni and awaitetl events. On the mornini; of the 2"th we were readini^^ on deck v hen we saw a tjueer compound between an En^ilish farmer and a towns- man comincj from tiie railroad station, with a sailor's gait so roll- ing that one would think he felt the pier beneath his feet flound- ering in a rough sea. He looked not to the right nor to the left, but marched over the gang-plank and up to dashing Captain Brougli, who was standing upon the deck he iiad so many months trod as its monarch, but was so soon to leave forever. The two men shook hands. They were the old and the new captains. The contrast between the two was amusing. Brougli. with his magnificent physique, was dressed in an elegant business suit. He wi. uld have been theadmiration of women and the envy of all dudes. His own mirror always gives him an admiring gaze. The other looked as if he liatl never seen a looking-glass, and did not care a if he never saw one. His shoulders were of gr ..'at width, and his chest as deep ;is that of a Devon bull. His body was made for a six-footer, while his legs had beer sawed off for a man of five feet. His clothes had been hastily picked up at a slop-shop in Liverpool. His shoes had seen no blacking since he left the deck of the Alaska, and on his well-shaped head was a stove-pipe, built on a block which was unfashionable ten years ago, and which had been ironed each spring for a half-dozen years. In his hand he held a cotton umbrella. This was Captain Arnold, A n I Ii a cudgel for Captain Arnold. Arnold was first officer of the Arizona when she ran her nose into an iceberg a few years ago, losing in the contest some 25 feet of her bow. As soon as the officers could get well upon their feet tlicy piped up the men, and after finding them ail right set to work to make repairs. All at once the whole crew was missing. Arnold found them in the cabin on their knees, where a clergyman had improvised a prayer-meeting. He went in with a stick and drove them out with an oath, telling them to get the ship riglit and then they might pniy to their heart's content. As he was passing into the companion-way he met an old gentleman coming up with his valise in one hand and an umbrella in the other, as if seeking a hotel. A tips)- jjassenger who hail been in the smoking-room at his cujis was coming down, and seeing the old gentleman sang out in iliunken humor : " Have a cab, sir ? " Oil the 27th Captain Webber gave us the half of the smoking- room on deck, and placed some carpenters under our control to fit the room upacconling to our own fanc)-. We rigged up three berths in a room 9 by 12, with two windows on each side, a long sofa, large mirror, ami. in fact, every thing to m.daid captain laid the whole blame upon this "blasted peculiar ocean." The two boys lay in their berths wishing thej'had never seen salt water, and were as miserable specimens as Chicago ever -cnt al)road. One acknowledged he wisheil he were at home, the other that the P.icific were as dry as Sahara's trackless desert, and that he were on an oasis as big as Atlam's fig-leaf, with no other friend than one f.iithful ilromeilary. Poor boy! He was full of pathos aiul bile, and would have poured out long Spenscrain an- athemas against sea-sickness, had he not grown " inarticulate with retching." " I U- fi-ll lliat tliilliiii; liiMviiu'ss nf ho.irt ( ir latlR-r slimi;uli, uliidi, alas ! aUtiuls, licyi.iid llif best aiHitlii'cary's art, riio lo-.^ iif lovt.', llif In-achcry nf friends, Ov tkatli (if llhi--i' wt- d.itc .111, wlic'ii a part Of ii> dies willi llii-in, as uaili fund luipe ends. Xo dculii lie wiudd liavc liffii mukIi mure [lathclic, Hut llie sfa actiMl as a stnuig cineiic." After the afternoon of tlie second day we had constantly rough seas, even when the winds were light. They grew stronger day by day, and scarcely varied from dead ahead. The swells grew higher and higher, and our ship, though she rode the waves like a : .'4^ vVk ■J If; ■ I i \ , It j! ' I i! ' 34 A RACE WITH THE STN. duck, could not help poking her nose into the monsters pouring down upon her. The seas were generally from a decided southern direction forcing us to take the trough. My berth was built athwart sliip, and on the fifth night, in the midst of a decided gale. I fouiui myself now standing on my head and then on my feet. The seas rolled in continuously from the south in mighty billows, and a cross-.sca came in over the bows so that the ship now rolled until she stood almost u]xin her beam ends, and then plungeil forwanl as if she intended to run her bow clear under water. She would shake her head how- ever and send the water washing in foam clear back to the stern. Up she would ride the coming wave, and the wave she was leaving behind would wash over her stern and then roll back nearly 20 feet above us. The main swells, coming from the south, washed the decks from \nx- to aft. One of these dashed against our ileck-house with such force that we feared we would be car- ried into the sea. Some passengers, who could not bear to stay below— shut in by skylights all canvassed and lashed, and hatches battened down— were constantK' having to di>dge behind the house (jr leap upon lockers. On Tuesday, the 6th of the month, we all went to our berths tired and sore from the two days' thumping we had receivetl. Living up to my maxim, " to make the most of the present day. and to hope for the morrow," I did hope that Wednesday, the to-morrow, would bring us bright skies and smooth seas. Alas, Tuesday had no morrow. Wednesday never came. It either got lost in the shuffle, or old Sol. seeing how wc were handica])pe(l in our race with his imperial highness, took pity on us, and instead of throwing Wednesday down so that it would fall upon the deck of our ship, dropped it so carelessly that it got tangled in the chain of the Aleutian Islands, which lies like a necklace upon the bosom of the northern I'.icific. And there it hangs and will hang forever. A liies non — a lost day. When the captain took his sextant in hand and pulled the sun down upon the horizcn to read his true reckoning upmi his fiery face, he found that instead of Wednesday, the ^th of September, it was Thursday, the tances. ()ftentimes one could look f.ir to the south and then to the north, .uul see .i hollow looking like a valley between mountain ranges. A wind .irises, which we feel is .1 little affair, and yet in a very short t'me it will raise a heavy swell, and the swell will live for a h ng time after the wind has been lulled. The c.ii)tain. who has been on ocean steamers tor _'3 }-cars, .says tiiat to him, loo, these characteristics were phiin ,111(1 emphatic. In his words : " It is wonderful how (piick this oce.iii can get m.ul, tiated than by st.iting tli.it one night we went to bed in .ilmost smootii w.iter. The afternoon had been fine. Several of us had sat u[)on the vessel's prow to watch an exipiisite sunset — a long silvery b.iiid stretched along the western horizon, tinted here and there with delicate orange. The entire horizon was perfectly marked. Fleecy clouds .mil beautiful cumuli were spread overthe sky from zenith to horizon. Tiie air hail for the first time a balmy feeling. I'-very one s.iid : " (looil weather now till wc get in." I think the doctor would have given heavy odds on the prospect. The next morning we were up to sec a beautiful sunrise, l^y the way. the few sunrises and sunsets wc have seen here have lacked almost entirely any redness of hue. They generall)- are beautifully silvery, with occasion. illy a little suspicion of (jrange. I sat down to write. The wind was rising, and the ship's roll was increasing, but >'.?: SC ' ' U ^1 'Mr -Tff W f|: t: ''} i ' f| .\M' 36 /f /t/ic/-: ir/TJ/ 77//' .sr.\ my tabic upon a \a Use so nearly counterbnlanceil the roll, that I was t) on . ..blivioiis of any niarkeii chanjjc without. Johnny was asleep the sofa by niv side. Thump! a biji sea strikes the ship; r liouse, and 1 with dirtkulty escape takinj^r a Tiie captain passed our wintlow, I cried : water dashes upon ou header over my tabk Wliat do you tiiink of this, captain It beats - Thi don't do tl ii-> sort o f tl nnc on the Atlantic. The ocean "ets mad nn \- lunch." I fe.ir I quicker than a co(liop can ^a-t u]) a sixpc will have to lay my >ty!us aside, for thinj^s look bad without, and yet it is not four hours since we were in a quiet sea. I will . It is now the ;ifternoon of Moiul.iy. . Just as I w.is writini; the last sentence the shi[) ^Mve a fearful lurch. Jolinn\- w.is shot lu.id forcn lost across the rciom and was met b\- the cushions between his and Willie's berth. Willie id flat on ilie floor. Dr. .S- who was reading' H)ion, a id 1 were thrown with the table and vali.sc on toj) of the wa>h-stand on the other side of the nxiiii. It was some time more b^r ore we cou Id i\ ecover troni our C(jiilusi()n And then what a wnck I The table was on the opposite top berth, sofa cushions were oil to]) of the doctor ,ind mj'self. The bed was in a mass amid the debris of an e.\-niavor and a Ne' York tioctor. The water had rushed thiouj^h the crevices of tlu' door and window, and onr-hoes.ind slippers were swim min:,rarf)u ml in a surf bath ; a delicioi joiHiLicl t)f I'reiieli ,L;r.ipes perv.ukd t.ie atmosphere, caused by the smashing; of some bottles of I'ontet Canet ; books and camp-stools were j;oiiij; forv\ard and b.ick, beatiiii^the old-time breakdowns of plantation dances. Of course writing; was over. So(jn hatchi's were battened down and skylii^lits \\ere canvased and ia.;hed. We had fore and aft -ails up to .-teady the shij). the foresail was torn into ribbons and the Dtlurs were " brought home." The wind rose and rose. The sea was aiisolutily white, lookiiij^as if covered with a miLjhtj' mantle of lace; the rollers comiiif^ in were high, but not as much so as those of the 6th, for they were fully 25 feet, but these seemed more angry. At 3 o'clock the log showed ;i strong gale to have been blowing; at 5 the wind was down, but seas were still high, and indeed continue so even now. This ocean gets mad quick, but takes a long time to cool down. The weather cools down (piickly, but the water beneath keeps up its angry heat. All night the ship, which was compelled to keep her course in the IkjIIow of the seas, rolled a id rolled, and few peo[)lc had any sleep. To-day all look wearied and sore from the 24 hou.-s' thumping. I did not stand on my head, for on finding I could not follow the captain's joke, and tack about during the night, over a week ago we tore down my across-iiip berth and got "the carpenter to fix up the long sofa so as to give mc a gooil" berth on it. Hut to our tale. The captain and passengers have been discussing the gale, and, from the shifting of the winds as it ran, he has come to the conclusion that we were in the rim o f a typl loon. m h. wi se at A PLUCKY JAPANESE. 37 All the waiters, cooks, etc., are almond-tyecl ; the sailors, except two boatswains, are Jap.mesc. And plucky fellows they are. About (lark after yesterday's storm, the line wliich holds taut the fore- mast's {;aff broke in one of the heavy lurches of the ship. The {jaff is the heavy timber which supports the fore-and-aft sails. Tliis was pitching terribly, and helped to intensify the ship's roll. The captain rushed out. " What in is the matter with that gaff? Send some one aloft to stay it." Presently the Jap- anese boatswain's mate, (luru Muta (I want to remember the jilucky fellow's name), went up to the masthead, ran a loose knot .iround the chain which holds up the gaff, and let it slide down as far as it would <^o. This was made fast below, and to some extent steadied it. He then took aloft another line, climbed down the chain to the end of the {^'.iff, and securely fastened a rope to the point, and when it w.is made fast and taut belf)w slid down it like a monkey. it was dark. The ship was heavily rolling, h.iving been for the time thrown into the trouf^h sea. The gaff was .it least 50 feet above the deck, and was being jerked like a whip staff, to the right ;uul left — now over the sra on one side and then as far over the sea on the other. The officers ail agreed that sailors arc rarely called ujjon to perform more daring feats. Two or three of us slipped into John's hand (this is his ship name) a dt. the sra was covered b}' myriads of Portu- guese men-of-war. They were very small, none of them exceeding two inches the longest way, but, with their little sails up and in such vast numbers, they g.ive the sea the ajipearance of being coveretl with whitisli blossoms. l're(|uinll)' there were eight or ten to a s(juare yard. Wii.des spouting at a distance were seen every day, and a few schools of porpoise have rolled in long lines off our beam. Night btfoie last, after the storm was over, a fl)"- ing fish about a foot long lauded on deck. I lis wing fiiis measured over 20 inches from tip to tip. We had the winged adven- turer fried foi breakfast, .md found him delicious. The flesh was very white ami firm, .md reseinl)Ietl in llavor that of the I'.ug'ish sole. All who t.isted it pronounced it \'\\\i:. We thought it ipiite an event to breakf.ist on a fish which of its own acconl h.id jumped into our fiying-p.in. .Some large birtls of the gull orchr. d.irk in color, witli narrow bat like wings measuring fully four fr> t from tip to tip. have been w itli us for many days. Their sa'ling motion is simply oerfection. I li.ive watched one of them for a half hour without seeing ,1 single decitled flapping motion of the wings. They bend to the right ami then to the left, wheeling several hundred yards from the ship, then dropping as far behind, and, without any apparent exertion catch it, though it was running I I :^ idiaisll '■■ J ip? 1 y « 'M \ !■. ib f -; I I 3« A RACE WITH THE SIW. fully 1 5 English miles per hour. Jud-ing from the way they sail about us, I would sav they fly from 40 to 50 miles an hour, and almost without a downward motion of the wrng. Some officers say thc\- are albatrosses, but I have looked at one when he was not over 30 feet away, and thouLjht his bill too much pirreon-shaped. We have seen a few small albatrosses, but not close to the ship. A few sharks have been seen, and cjuantities of Mother Carey's chickens. Yesterday 'a Japanese man-of-war passed within i couple of miles from us. Being saluted, she asked from what port we came, and slowly steamed out of sight. It made us all feel we were not entirely out of the world. It is wonderful what small things will interest jieople at sea. Long before the ship came near us e\ery glass aboard was out, and conjectures innumerable were made a^ to what and who she was. Doctor S. .said she was a Russian bear, aiul advised the captain to send up American culors. so as to keep him from hitting us with one of his iron paws. Our one Engli.sh passenger looked as if he would like to e.it a Yankee discipie of Ivsculapius. When we s.iiled we exi)ected to take sea baths every day during the voyage, ami adhered to the resolution for several days, but found the water up near the Aleutians too cold for any beneficial effect. The temperature sank down as low as 53 FahrenlidL. On the morning of the I ith it went up to (xd tlegrees. and ^n the 13th up to '2. This rapid change was owing to our having reached the celebrated J.ipan stream, which pours up from Japan along tlij Aleutian chain to the shores ol Al.i-ka, and then down ui)on laitish Columbia. The loth was the first d.iy om- cmild trcid the steamer's tleck in comfort without a warm overcoat. I am now, on the 13th, sitting in my shiirt sleeves, \\\\<\. though all the windows of our ileck-room are open. 1 .un in a decidetl perspir.i- tion. \\'e are in latitiulc 36 degrees 57 minutes, .iiul within 400 miles of Yokoh.ima. We have onl}- 35 cabin passengers and 40 or 50 Chinese in the stutirage. These l.ist are packed like sardines in .i box. Tlu'ir mi-^erable hinks during our roULfhest da\s were reall\- amusiiiL!. Some of th bly flush in funds, but they spend as iittle as possible in going home. Their American earnings .re to last them through life. O ur an atrreeable fa lem are ])roba- ;ible in goin^ through life- niil\-, and the table saloon passengers ,ire is a social g.ithering. The .Siamese eat by themselves ; not from any disposition to exclusiveness, but the table would nut .iccommodate us .dl at once, and they natunilK- preferred being together. We find them quite good fellows. The little princes are models of boyish politeness. They have been in .Scotland a year ;iiul a '--If at school, and are tlecidedly inteUigent for their ;i<^h's. I'rince Devawongse is the brother of the king, the four \-oung princes tiie King's children. The prince informed me to-day that tliey were all -^a^ I mti but of dec w ref the wa- <|U, Ih. dit sai litt ( It i- abh sle, tin obel 1. THE SIAMESE PRINCES. 39 I i children of different motlier^^, none of them being of the chief wife or (jiieen. He and one of his aides sleep in the room adjoining ours. They all, however, spend the evenings and most of the day n his v^abin when it is unpleasant to be out. Their amuse- ment when on deck consi.st.s principally in shooting at a mark with air-guns. To the smallest, who is not over nine years old, they arc proficent marksmen. The suite ])ay great resp.-ct to, but at the same time are thorougiily famili.ir with the jirince.and when shooting or playing witii the shuffle-board delight to beat him. We notice, however, tiiat at night he and th'.' children are the principal talkers. \Vc hear every thing said through our board partition. Wiiile all s|)eak considerable Knglish, yet in their intercourse the\' talk .Siamese. Tiie prince evident!)- finds no difficulty in making his jokes appreciated. Like " Souter Johnny." he " tells i)is queerest stories, his courtiers laugh in ready chorus." lie seems very desirous of gaining information, and to-day told us if we should go to Si.un he wt.uld do what he could tt) make our time pleasant. lie is ,i man of considerable information, and is evidently desirous that Si.un shouUl be among the ])rogressiv"r nations of the East. lie is what with us would be calli'd uiukrsizeil. but is well-knit and very graceful. In play- ing shuttle-board he shows ])ractice in manual ixircisc, and with his air-gun, at thr wnul, comes close to the bull's-eye. Altogether one -.vould prunounct him a man of much intelligence and refine- ment of feeling. M\(\ .i thorough giiitUnian in mam.ers. The b())'s an^ (juite up to the average of boys of their agr in intellect. All step like \<'ung martinets when using the pistol, but an- thorough \-oungsters when at their sports. ( )ne d.iy one (if the little fellows .uid I undertook a w.dk of two miles on the deck. I h.ul to acknowledge he beat me 150 y.irds in the course. When 1 told him he could have dom- still better, with polite refmement he assured me he had done his best, and that he had the .idvantage in h.iving rubber soles to his shoes, and therefore w.is not entitled to the praise gi\en him for his fine walking (jualities. The\' .dl dress in good taste and know how to deport theniM-lves in Kurojiean costume. At home their dress is (piitc different. To-day two of them, the smaller ones, came out in sailor ilress, the uniform of their f.ither's )-.icht. Tl;ey were jolly little tars. Oh. the Pacific I the might)', the changeable, and mad Pacific I It is all again white, and a strong iiead-wind is r.iising .1 consider- able -ea. It is now the morning of the 14th. To-night we will sleep in \'okohama. Hut 1 fe.ir we will get in too late to have a fine view of I'uji, the great mountain which receives the first tibeisance from travellers coming to Japan. I., 1st night was hot and sultr)-. Tiie doctor bet a quarter there would be musijuitoes aboard before morniii;^, even if we were over :t''i'i^f| I J . J il , A RACE WITH THE SUN. dc 20 of August and coming down to the 14th of September : tempo ature of atmosphere has been day by day as follou. 7odc-rces.63. 60, 56,60. 56.60, 58. 55- 53. 53- 59-63. /^- ^3. 84. Ibc Pterins been 60 degrees. 61, 58. 57. 55. 55. 55. 54- =4. 54. 54. .60, fo -' 78 82 Although it has been generally too cold forbemg oT;^;ck^ in comfort, yet^if we had to n.ake ch-ce of a^^^^^^^^^^ as cold as ours has been, or as warm as it is to-da> , we \\oulcl cer- lainlv choosHl e cooler. One can pile on clothes to keep warm, but it is impossible to lay off one's meat and sit up in bones to keep cool. ii I ! If CHAPTER VII. liEAlTII ri. ANI> lilZAKKt; JAI'AX— IIS CHEERFUL MEN AND MOD- EST IMMODEST WOMEN— ITS MECHANICS AND BAIUES, HOUSES AND CITIES. Yokohama, Japan, September 30, 1887. I WOULD write of the land of the Slio^un (Tycoon) that was ; of the land of the Tcnshi (Mikado) that is. I would write of it, but what and how ? Where can one find words to pen-picture a fairy- land — where colors to touch up a glowin<; dreamland ? How shall I c.itch and hold forms evolved by a kaleidoscope constantly revolvinfj — forms made of myria !s of pieces all differintj from any before conceived of — all colored in tints before unknown and un- expected? One comprehends descriptions of things unseen and unknown, through comparisons with things known. Here, however, every thing so differs from the same thing elsewhere, that comparisons can scarcely be made, and if attempted must assume tlu' form of antithesis. Jajian offers to the eye a land beautiful, soft, picturesque, antl dreamy. And yet there is rarely to be seen a curvilinear profile among its mountains and hills. Rarely do undulations mark the sky line. All is peaked, notched, broken, jagged, and ruggei.!. ri.iins. as such, are few and of comparatively small extent. Mighty cones jjierce the sky, and the valleys are nowhere sloping at\d wavy, gentle and soft. They are all canyons, gorges, and rough chasms, ^'et, with this all true, her mountains delight and rest the eye, aiul her v.illeys invite one to quiet rambles, and make one long for a loving eye to look into, for a loving heart to synip.ithi/.e with. Here nature started to make a land for the lair of hideous monsters, ami eiuietl in making a l.iiul for dancing and laughing fairies. No ocean once rolleil in vasty depths over the land and, subsiiling, left it in mountain and hilly ranges, or in sunny plains ami mellow valleys. X.iture conceived the island in one of her angriest moods, and brought it forth in agonizing labor. She rocked and reeled, shook and shrieketl in maternal throes, and lined upon her olTsjiring the marks of her woes — marks intendeil to terrif)' .ind to breed inteiisrst awe. Hut, like all true mothers, she j'e.irned tow.ird the child of her sorn:>w, and loved it for the suffering it had caused. vShe cuddled it upon .1 mother's breast and w.irmeil it by ])uls.itions from a mother's heart. She cicatrizetl its ugly scars, ami painted them in colors 41 •■\ .: ! !^ r ' > ] J : A ' W . Mi V'- i A 't 'fi ^n\ ■M ^ 1 .1, *.f| • i / i n I 1 :\ J) >1 1 > ; 1 ! 42 /< ^^c^ /F/r^ Ti/£ sow. distilled from rainbow hues, and then spread over every deform- ity a mantle of flowers and bloom. She wove t,'arlands and hung them upon every precipice, and festooned with wreaths every mountain crag. She broke the rushing torrents into feathery foam, and sent them laughing, dancing, and singing on their short race to the surging sea. Japan is almost entirely of volcanic origin, and as far as we have seen or heard, its ever\- part was thrown up from the bowels of the earth in volcanic eruption. The eruptions did not cea.se, however, when the molten rocks and hissing lava were ])ilecl into rougli and craggy hili.- or lifted into mighty cones— one, two, and nearly tliree miles high, —for then came showers of ashes of many neutral tints, tinged with orange and vermilion, purple and ch.oco- late-brown, ami covered the cr.iggy pinnacles with eart:i which is pleasing to llie eye even where no vegetation <,jrr.\\s, making a soil where noble forest trees, graceful shrub.-, clothed in bloom, trailing anil climbing \ines. and flowers of many kinds and of in- numerable dyes have fouiul a congenial home. Vegetation of endless variety and o' tropical luxuriance is spread over mountain and valley, hill and gorge, moulding the rough and jagged peak into rouiuled liome and smoothing down the frightful gorge into a smiling vallc)-. Nature repented of Iut angr)- conception and, touching her whelp with a wand more powerful than l'ros|)ero's, re.ired it into a K)ve-winning beauty. The laiul abounds in gods — 80,000, we are told, — hitleous mon- sters begotten of men's fears, born of the cpi. iking earth, and breathing volcanic fires. JVsides these, then- are inan\' millions of dead fathers, now w (ir^liippcd by their descendants as housc- liold gods, .uiswering to the pmates of .incient Italy. To prevent the pos.sibilit}' of the line of ;mcestral gotls being broken, p.irents failing of st)ns have alw.iys had the rights of atloptioii.an .uloptetl son becoming, by the act, imbued with the power of continuing the line of iiis adopted f.ither. It is said that lliougli passion- ately fond of their cliil ,reii. a parent immedi.ately invests the new boy with all the senriniental characteristics of blood offspring. I lad man never re.iched J.ipan's shores, the.'^e gods would have re- m,>ineil unborn, ami the land would have been the home of laughing fauns and of dancing, gau/y sprites. Hut man came, along, long while ago, and erecteil himself into n n.ition, when or before David harped and (i.inced before the ark of the Lord. ;ind before the iron age of Rome w.is )xt in its cradle. For 2,500 years we know that the nation h.is lived. Its men have been l)e;ists of burden, and h.ive done the labor else- where performed by the speechless brute and by the soulless m.ichine. During ,ill these long ages they have toilei! from early d.iwn to latest twilight— toileil for their bare food, clothes they have had none and needed not, :ind yet to-day these men, while cringing and f.iwning in tlu ir expression of -joliteness, are other- n i THE JAPANESE WOMEN. 43 wise dignified and manly in their bearing, quick and graceful in their movements, ambitious and greedy for knowledge, cheerful and light in their mood. They drudge for a pittance, and spend a part of the pittance in visiting and enjoying romantic localities, wiiere hills and valleys speak in poetry, and streams and brooklets ripple in song. Antl man's other and sweeter self — woman— she wlio has hc-e ever been a thing to bo sold for a day, a month, a year, or for life, at her father's will, and, whether as child, hand- maid, concubine or wife, has had no will of her own —a very slave! And yet this woman, but half covered in the field or upon the road, and in tlie public bath as free from clothing as was Maiden I'-ve when she blushed in bridal purity before her Adam — this woman is smiling, sweet, co(juettish, plumj), and undulating, and K^ems ever to be veiled by an invisible mantle of modesty. Naked, she does not blusli, for she is not so for lewd purposes, or for the purpose of attracting a look, and is not ash.imed of t'ne moKl in which she was cast. She does not invite a ga/.e, and seems not to know when one is given. Clothing she wears for warmth and adornment, and not fcir concealment. ane the n-sult of an origin arising from like c.uises. The Mongoli.m Chinaman, wherever jilaced, is a |)lodding, burrowing, conservative animal. The Japanese is volatile, energetic, ami ])rogressive. The one is s.ilurnine .md slow, the other is (piick and ever seeking the joyous. How came they here? Is there anything reasonable in 5 'IM. 1:1' '•■y fi \ fi ■'is vl ' (' '■l,„ M I' 'I -1, > t jU ! Il . 1 1 ■ I 1 i ?' 44 A RACK WITH THE SUN. the general idea that God started all living things in one original pair of oach? Was Adam the fati\er of all men ? I do not believe one drop of his blood flows in the veins of the heathen, cellar- burr.Aving Chinese. When nature was ready for man, did not God have gardens of F.den wherever he willed man should be? There is nothing unfaithful in the thought. Were not the Japanese tlie offsjiring of the foam which dashed upon their sea- girt shore? I am no scientist, I am but a dreamer. Man was made to laugh as well as to weep. He is foolish if he does not lauj'h a great deal more than he weeps. He was made to dream as well as to be awake. If he keeps his conscience clean, and his liver in good conilition, his dreams will be rosy, even his widc-a\rake dreams. I am happy when I dream, and dream I will I Just now I dream of Jai)an— wonderful, poetic, bizarre, beaiiJfui, grotesque, artistic, plodding, singing, weeping, laugh- jn^r^ sighing, smiling, gentle, and loving, undcscribed and in- describable Japan. I closed my last letter on tlie morning of the 14th, expecting to be in \'okohama that night. Hut voyagers propose, and on the Pacific, according to my observation, do very little disposing. Before noon we were in a strong wind, and dead aheatl. We scarcely more than overcame the strong current which was run- ning against us. We were all very much put out, but 1 did not afterwards regret it. About three o'clock the clouds began to scatter, and soon we had bright sunshine, but with a stiff wind. Toward the south hea\y clouds were hanging. These took a form rarely seen ; a dense mass. ai)paivnl!)- not a quarter of a mile high, and leaden in color, moving eastward, slowly, but evidently rolling and whirling in wild freii/y on a centre. Over it all was a bright blue sk\'. It ni.ide a sort of jiori/on, so distinctly outlined was its top. I'lastward and westward we eoulil see its limits We tocik it to be not ovir 15 or 20 miles in extent. Luckily, it did not come nearer our ship than three or our mi les. It was a small tjpln )on, and passed ])artlv over The son. Yokohama, .uul was one of the most violent of the sea whole storm was containeil in a cloud compact, distinct, a ing lik no roii- e a low b.-i ml )f f. We lay off ^\•(ldo bay until lii;lit the next day, and then had a beautiful sail uj) to the cit}-. The bay is .1 very beautiful on e, and was white with the sails of the early fishermei W counted 2,^7 sails at one time from a single point on our deck. Low mountains rose almost fioin the w.iter on e.ich shoix', .ill green and treed. To our left was the small island V^ries, with the volcano Idzu-no-C)shim.i, lifting from the sea 2,600 feet. About his head was wra|)i)ed a turban of smoky mist, which changed while we looked, into a conical cap, pointed high above. Th ere was no fl im e visible, the smoke alone showing that the mountain was an active volcano. At times it belches forth Hani!. THE JINRICKISHA. 45 as well as vapor, and is said to be very grand. Villages were planted under the hills, along the bay, and down upon the water, and here and there picturesque houses on the brows. High in the .listanco, with his perfect cone piercing the sky, mighty Fuji- yama kept watch and ward over the land. Fuji is the name, the affi.x Vama being placed as a mark of distinction or honor, strictly interpreted Sir Fuji — the one grand mountain. There are many others over 10,000 feet high ; this cone, rising almost from a plain, is claimed to have been thrown up when Jkwa Lake was sunk, smce the Japanese nation has e.xisted, and was the act of the gods, to show that the island was completed, and that the work was well done. Half-way down his slope a belt of fleecy clouds hung like a graceful scarf thrown around a fair woman's bosom. Immediately after our ship dropped her anchor, swarms of small, odd-looking boats, propelled by huge sculling oars and manned by boatmen in every kind of costume, from the slender clout-rag up to a coat of matting hung from the should':rs over dusky forms, crowded about the .ship. There was hiiaking of iiands among the passengers, g almost pro foriiui we were whirl- ing along the l)eautiful inind for the (irand Hotel, in jinricki- shas. Parenthetically. 1 will say that all Asiatic cities with a foreign quarter have along the water a sort of boulevaid. planted with trees, broad, and well paved, the promenade of the foreign population, and called a "bund," and I will further say that the drantl Hotel would do credit to any luiroi)ean city. Its rooms are large ami airy, its cuisine admirable, and its charges, though high for Japan, would be cheaj) in America or England — §3.50 a day, Japanese ruoney, e.ich dollar now worih 75 cents, United States coin ; includetl in this is good claret. I will now speak i)f the jinrickisha iman-|)owcr wagon\ so that the term and its use may be full\- untlerstood when used here- aftiT. It is a small, two-wheeled ct)vereil cart, not unlike a trot- ting sulky, with light shafts united in front by a cross-bar. Its body rests on two elliptical springs, with a lifting top like the Americ.ui buggy. It is well cushioned and s])ring)-, and is drawn by .1 man between the shafts, who pushes by a hand on each, and when heavily loaded, by leaning against the bar which unites the ends of the sh.ifts. They are ortlinarily propelled by a single man, or where e.xtra speed is desireil or too much weight is im- posed, by a second or even a thinl man. The second man pulls in front by a strap over his shoulders, and by his hand pulling a single trace ; occasionally the wagon is pushed from the rear by a third one. With a single m.m the usual speed is about five miles an hour on good roads and with light weight. With two >• ,N *( : i W I i ,. f^ !•! I 46 ../ A'.lC/': WITH THE SUN. men riinnint; taiulL-m, I have made ten miles in an hour and 20 minutes. With two men to eacli waijon. our party ran from Nikl ^i wagon, or ninety-five cents our money. The u^ual charges in cities are from eight tn ten cents .1 run.'or ten cents per hour i)yd;iy, fifteen cents per hour at night or in a rain. This price is ilouhled if an e.xtra man be taken. ^ It i.s a charming mcnie of travelling, especi.illy in a city. Your horse is told where to g/en wagons with their 24 men ahead of you, with calves of great muscularit}-, and legs finely formed, only .1 little bowed, owing to the habit of fitting on their li, lunches, in^te.id of on chairs. The streets lure are in m.my localities tlensely packei.1, ami not oxer u feet witle. Lan- terns hang before every store. People carr\- gay lanterns at niL^ht. The)' nunc about a great de.il like bees about a hive. The kurum.i (ricki>ha) men moving in ami out among these add gre.itly to tlu- ])icturesqueness of the scene. There are in \'okohama over 4,000 and in Tokio 27,000 of tiiese w.igoiis under license, and in all J.ipan about 175.0OO. Thus you can understand how imp(ntant a i)art the jinrickisha pla)s. both in the ecimomic and in the scenic make-up of this str.inge island. It is not generally known that this charming little wagon ma\' bi; considered a gift ilirectly from heaven, and that, too. through the intervention of an American. One of our mission. iries at N.ig.is.iki having a wholesome dislike of h.ird w, liking, invented the thing some 26 or more years ago. His Yankee ingenuity took holil upon Jajianese fancy more (|uickly than did his theology. The thing issupposeil to be purely Jap.mese, and lias been to some extent adopted in all Eastern lands. You have often as children playetl at housekeeping, or some other mimic ant! lilliputian make-believe of the doings of grown- ii|) people. The first impression maile upon me of a Japanese city was th.it the people were plaj'ing .it running a town. In the native cpiarters of Yokohama ;ind in other towns, except in the jiublic-building (piarters of Tokio, the streets arc mere lanes in width. Thi-re are no sidewalks. The houses are mostly of one story, and where of two the upper story is very low, the first ;ib(uit 10 feet and the other not over iS. They arc almost exclu- sively of wood, ami from 10 to 14 feet in width. The first floor is llush with the street. The m.ijority of the second stories, of pure native style, arc set back from the front from 4 to 6 feet. I'll •^' '■•■Mi i < if\ ■I \.(i li ^ ■> 'I 4,S A RACE WITH THE SUN. The first story is all open, the second closed in by lattice work. Glass is rarely seen. The shop is simply the front part of the lower story. First conies a space 4 or 5 feet wide on the tjround level, then a raised platform, say from i to 2 feet in elevation, and lore feet. On this is the work-shop or shop riiiin in-' back S, ro or n for sale of i^oods. Jk'hind tiiis for livini; pio'i noses IS anotl ler sli.LjhtlN- raised portion, runnm^j meet the re(iiiirenients, or in accordance w iii'f back a greater or less distance to ith the m -ans, of the o\\ ner, momen lere are no p.irtitions, yet the house can in a fe w ts be divided into several compartments. The customer or visitor stops on the j^nound level, aiul leaves liis c1ol;s. s.mdals, or shoes, and mounts the next platform in his stocking's or bare feet. Tiiese upjier i)latforms are hi.i;hl>- ])olisheiI .UK .1 part V co\erec three b\- si.\ feet, and are 1 witli m.its. .All of the Litter .ire pr.iclic.dl)- the unit of me.isureinent of floors and w.dls. For ex.unple.a room is so many mats lar;^e. The polished floors and mats, ire of scruiJuloiis cle.inliness. 1 lie shoe or s.md.il is ni)t permitted to tre.id upon the m. Tin dealer a nd 1 ns cu tomcr or visitor >it or scpKit iijion the first platform, smoke .1 pipe toijether, a nd L'O th roue h tl leu' neL'o tiatioiis or ch.it. 'Ihe pipe, by the way, does not lu)ld more than a h.ilf-tliind)leful of tt»bacco, and is'emptied in three to five ])uffs. ( )n the inner platforms the f.imily reside. As I said, the whole is open wide to tlie street. .\t nii^ht wooilen shutters .ue put up. c!o>in.^r the first >hop. These are sometimes in solid wooden p.mels. but more freiiuentlj- of lii;ht, open l.itlice-work. The iii)per i)l.ittorms are divided into smaller compartments by putting' uj) panels like window sashes, very li.^ht and prettily v.irnishecl. On one side of this is pasted thin paper, liL^ht and tr.mslucint. Tlu-e p.uuls sit or slide in grooves. Thus a house of sa\' \2 by J5, feet in.i)' in five minutes be made into four or five separate rooms. The shutters .uul papered p.mels .ire set u|) durin;^ the d.iy in recesses built for the purpose in the outer w.ills of the house, l-.ach recess h.is in front a slidinij duor. which closes up so as to hide it. The walls of the house are of a single thickness of board, on which lij^ht laths of bamboo are tacked, ami over this a coat of pl.ister is spreati. AmoU'^ the better classes this i)laster is of lime, with picked oakum in lieu of h.iir. In the poorer houses it is of imul and str.iw. The coat of pl.ister is so thin that the whole wall is not much over two inches thick, luer)- thini,' about a hou->e is deliciously clean in a[)pearance, but there is no ])rotecti(jn for the nose. The sense of smell here seems to be proof a riv.il .Metiiuselah in lniigevity. If you wish to purch.ise a st.ipie article, he has one price. ,ind docs not seem tst iiiiii so much, tli.it it is 3lk) or i.ixx) ye.irs okl, and will iiid m t. iking li.ilf or .1 tiiird of his fir>t deiii.ind, .iiid will bow to the lloor in til, inks for your ]).itronage. Truthfulness is not a Japanese \irtiie. His (ir.ice ,\rchbishop Osouf assured iiie that it coukl be s.iid the m.isses were gre.it li.irs. .mil that ))oliteness might be put down .is their single virtue. Weill it is a virtue, and it tells II eveiy-d.iy life, .md if one cannot shut lies out by lock uul bolt, one cm .it least stuff cotton in the e.irs ami avoid being too much olTended by the vice, while enjo)ing the cheering effect of what .ijipe.irs to be genuine politeness aiul good will, rile bip.mese .ire tine meclianics. and. though sjuw and delib- er.ite. d'> their work witli gre.it precisii^n and with e\(juisite finisli. They do .ill work just oppositely to our mode, if it were possible they would commence a house at the roof; iiuleed. it may be ^,iid this is often done. Tlie ordinary house has corner stud- supports ; these being erected the roof is put on. ami the liouse is then built under and up to it. Tiiey draw tlie pl.me toward them in^,tead of pusiiing it from tliem. ,ind m.ike glue-joints for tlie commonest purposes. They m.ike their mortises so exact that w.iter c.mnot creep between tlu- joints. They use the saw by cutting tow.ird the iiand in--te,id of from it. All saws are very widi' iind have a straight ii.mdlc. and yet tliey will rip a plank fifteen feet long so exacti\' and truly that a smoothing plane will dress it down perfectly str.iight. I"'ew n.iils are used in the erec- tion of houses. Corner-stuiis are mortised in to the sills so closely lh.it they stand as if nailed .md ijolted. The plates are luld with e(|u.il tightness. The siding i-- then set into grooves cut in tlie studdings. When an old liouse is torn down its material, being ^ > ri ^1 il .;->• a sin^He man. A ^ ..reii me he had seen a io^^ '^w^ feet tlinui-li thus t. He was a .Scotchman, and theri-fore told me tlu- truth. I saw a 1<«^' quite three feet throu^'h beinj,' cut into incli .•If Ilu •IS .ibout ten feet 1< • ni ind w.is l.iid on a frame at an obi'iciue anj^ie. The sawyer sat under it .iiul cut ,' any of the bo.inU. Timber is hewn in the r oc'ta^'ons. 1 Ik ii it dries |)erfectly, ami is ^ t'into b(Mrd-< on tlie j^rouiul where the house is beini; erected. They do nice work in wood, but are slow. i'luir u .i it up before removin woods into s(ju.ires 'emr.dh' cu are about 45 cen ts a dav. When I use the term dtillarand cent I pe.ik of the Jap.mese dollar and cent, one fi>urth li's-^, at present v.iiue o wou f silver, th.m our mone\ niericaiis lure as^uri' me they Id prefer paying' our wa;4e .md ^'eltini,' the tlim^' ilone promptly, than to await the tlil.itor>- movi'nient^ .1 n.l ress o f the ''ood and che.ip n.itive worknun. Tl ic conimo tl stonework is ver\' (nu liere is no sui iw pn h th IIIL' h wall on a n.itur.d betl. -Ml stones are cut and set in as .1 roii;^ e.xact joints ; not in 1 all sh.ipes. R.nuloin ine work, but cut to fit one iijx)!! .mother ii rubble is. I believi'. the technical name for this stvle. Brid^'es. piers, can. lis and mo.it w.ills ;ire thus built. an m In Tnkio there are d m.mj' of the stones are of ^jreat si/i my miles of w.iIN. fnim 30 to 60 feet hi;;h, built of stones wei^hiii;.^' from lOO pounds up to sever.il tons, .md all with joints so nice ;ind true th.it no cement has been iised.;ind none is ncccs.sary. It i^ ,1 wonder liowthe.se poor down-trodden ])eoplL- have clone siu. help them. h v.ist work with no horses and no m.icliiiierv to .\1I h iiiliiu', or nearlv .ill. is done bv nun. I s.iw a sinj^'le man ilrawin^' or pushing a load (jf near!)' 300 brick to the new p.il.ice ;it Tokio from the dock over a mile ;iway. At the castle hill, which is cpiite 100 feet high, several nu assistetl It is. I common thini: to see twi thre n e. or more men pushing' .1 load such as a heavy dray horse would draw in .\meiic.i. Two would be at the shaft, the others push. They step to a word all the time. The shaft m.m would utter sonuthini; like " seough " : the others would c.itch it and reply together "seoughah." During the d.iy in (juarters where iie.ivy loac.s are being drawn, or iieavy work being doiR-, some such cr\' as this is hearil in every direction, though I will s.iy, parenthetic ill\-. that one of the charms of these cities is the absence of loud and ileaf- cning noises. All great cities of luirope and America have their voices. One can almost imagine he recognizes .1 distinct, peculiar voice in each. In the still of the night it is m.irked, and never silent. A J.ipanese city after \2 o'clock seems to be absolutely asleep. Ther? is no voice. It is as silent as the country, and 1 V- 1 1 \ I yj hAi cmi.l^KI X AX/) /.'.//.'//..S. 5> if one awakes in tl»c small lioiir-^ he iuars no sDund. All is IiusIjliI aiul (juict. In sunic hn.ilitics, luiwcvcr, tlutc arc many trees. In tliese lie licars the luim .md son;,' of insects; but this is the voice of tlie count r)-, not of the city. Kver\' cla>- of people seems eii^a^jid (I mean not tlu noble, but tile people), and all a^es ilo their share towards the conunoii su[)port. men. women, bo\s, and ^,'irls. C'hildren iiiuK r ten .ire the merriest, iau^^hinijest. busiest little bodies im.ii^in.iljle. One can almost pronounce this the par.ulise of the youn^'. Tiny arc in .1 profusion I never saw elsewhere. Ihe)' are as thick as Hies, ,iMtl tlies here .ire a> .djundant as the sands ou the seashore. Children are in the shops .md stores where their p.utnts an- at work. Indeed, •■lie would .dmost think that in llu' finer stores little ones arc kept tricked out in lluir nici->t to m.des are playing n-^ul.ir romps the liltie ones are sound asleep, their he.uls li.mLjinj^ tlown .md lloppini; from ^ide to --itlc as if their little necks would break. Hire in front of tlu- luttel, when the tide w.is out. I saw hun- dreils e.irly one morniuL; SLikin;^ mussels, mosses, aud sea-werd. Little felhjws not o\ir ten. with b.ibies str.ipped to them, were w.idin;.; .ibiiut i^.itlu riii_^ shell fish. When ll''\' wouUl stoop on h.uuls an the b.iby would .ilmost stand >n its he.id. I can say I h.ue seen hundreds .mil h.i\e .is \( i lu ,ii- one to places of interest. We rarelv look into a -uide-book. Hut to return to our kinder- • r iricn Tile teacher \Vouk! read a sentence, pointing to it. the children repeating after him. He did thi. for a while in short sentences, and then went over the wiiole. In perhaps 10 or 15 minutes the httle fellows all read the whole story aloud without his assistant Tliev read and recite it in a sort of chant. Think of it, my liti.- Irieiids, away off here m Japan, where 30 years ago no foreigner, except, perhai)s. a Chinaman, had been for 300 years, a lot of little boys and girls, each in a gown little more than .1 shirt or ni^luiobe, are learning the same lessons taught you in the public schools. Hut I ■.usi)ect it will interest the >-outhful )et more to tell how these little fello'vs learn to write. In one room was a writing- class. They. too. were small one — -ome, I thought, uiukr six. The t)rder of tlie tenshi (mikado 1 i>. that none >-ounger ih.in that age should go to school, but their parents smuggle them in to kee]i them 'it uf mischief. They were all squatted in pairs at .1 rough ini.iru. wliich served for a desk. Euch chikl had a lot of iGUinrse oaper. utrth a string through >>nc end of the sheets. riii--- ,i*i J. bwok. Diiea,- do not write with a pen, but with a sm.ill ilMuwk.. like a waiEr-color brush, onl\- rather raiorc pointed. With diH-tthey \v-rTti-..rawt from the left to the rrght ;ind on the ti.p of tliu'pjiijaer. bat fln tile right sitle of the paper, from top to bot- Etjm. Thcrr jtfit^rs resemb'e ilie chanictei^ seen on a tea-chest. Till— use s.jfflif 4K Chinese diameters with their own letters. Tin -■ -'i«gn^ e:OTTf*is not only a whole word, but now and then -.liorr -■fniiitenc:^- It was funny to see a Ineginner making his h-t- tisrs. ••♦irar iir* "''w eovered the iialf •>{ his sheet with oiu- or two. Thr : wfo-d ,is if .1 web-t as upon his ])aper. They tlo not use blorrtrrs or let t;fa.e fxiper dry : their writing paper is poroufi. and suicks up the ink as fast ;is it is written. After 10 or nz y^ .irs >' age. the poorer ciiikiren do their sli.ire of work to support thtaiselves and their families. The\- work in the fields and in the sainps, anil help their f.ithers to \>u\\ and push. One -^ees a l2-yT2irs-old boy at an o;ir, doing his full share ol the work of scuIHul while his father or employer jjushes the other. Parents are de-oted to their children. Obedience .md assistance are demanded of the latter tu their p.irents. If a 111,111 ilies before his -on is of age, the eldest son is exempteil from mil- itary service, because he must take care of liis nuulier .md j'ounger brother- .md sisters. In the evening one frequently sees a man w.ilking wiih a b.ib)- in his arms. He is resting the mother, or letting hi r prepare the evening meal. In this cit\- there I- a popidation of al>oiit 140.000 ; in Tokio 1, after a heav\- d.i)''s work, .md find them fully e(iual to .my ])rofes-ion,il mas^age-oper.itor we have tried at home. Indeeil. I like them better. They are very gentle ■md rapid in their movements, have soft h.uuls and ipiicken the cir- eiil.ition witliout bruising or u'ritating the surface. Their ^nsc of touch is ,10 keen tl. 1 they seem to find tlie ])arts of the p.itient's body most nei;ding m.inipulatioii I h.id a slight ,it- t.uk of sciatic... I could not speak a word of J.ipanese to tell tiie " .imm.i " .\!i r!;()i 1 i;— 1 1 s lioii-.is, looii am> mowkks. ///' Diicc beforctli.it my letters lionu- wore manifold copies from 111)' traveller's book of the impressions maile upon me by thing's along the uaysitlc as we run rapidly thrcnigh a country. Siicli impressions cannot be other than crude and, to a con- sideral)le extent, ill digesteil. lint all I aim .it is to carr)' along • lie re.ider with me, and, if possible, to iiiable him to see what wo see and to enjo\ what we enjo)'. If I m.ike mistakes I can only s.iy I do not aim to, and the mistakes are probably wh.it the reader iiimself would h.ive made hail he been the tr.iveller. In m\- former letter from this strange ci untry, in \w\ I'udeavor to cn.il)le one to t.ike a bird's-eye view o' J.ipan. 1 fe.ir I may have misled. I st.ited lh.it it was wholi}- of volc.mic origin, and that there were but few pl.iins, and those of small extent. I'\)r the purpose intended /. <•., to m.ike a picture — the statement was proper. ( )n .1 toiiogr.ipiiical m.ip the islands w.)uld tluis appear. There .ue, liowevei. in the f.ir north .and the far south stratified forin.itions and a few in the centr.il portion, but these latter .ire of nu't.iniorphic rocks, or the estu.iries of great rivers. Tiicrc arc, too, some plains which are of consiiler.ible extent, eitlier along the sea-coast or in the river vallej's. Some of these are ten to fif- teen miles across near tiie sea. n.irrowiiig as tiuy run back until tliey .ire lost in the mountains. ( )ne of the striking features of the country i- the great number <;f rivers and tlifr size when compared to their leMigth. The clim.ite is so humid .md the snow .md rain- fall in the winter and spring so great, th.it the number .md size of the streams are u holly disproportionate to the extent of the coun- try drained, as conip.in-d with otlier countries one visits. Not only is the rainf.ill great, but tlie dews are ver)- heavy. These things make .1 const. iiitly moist e.irth, and cause streams to aboun- ami June the volume of water brought to the sea by the rivers is very great, and occasionally causes much destruction by inund.itions when some of the restraining djkes give way. It may safely be said, I think, that nearly all the broad river valleys were originally .swamps and morasses. Hut huge dykes varying from 10 to ^5 feet in height, erected at enormous 35 I i .-* > I ' , ?»> i«i '.. .. / 'I i .1 * -I u 1 A r'-vr- 1' II f.^ Mi S6 ,-/ A'.fc/-: 11777/ TJir. svy. cost of labor, confine the streams to moderate ilinieiisions and ','ivo the country the bulk of its arable huul. which swarms with a dense popul.itioii. We arrived at this place late this afternoon. \\ e liave now traverseil in jinrickishas :;oo miles of Japanese roads and about lOO miles by rail. The latter we passed over— in both direction.s —at a speed not ^neater than iS miles per hour. In other words, we have moved slowly eiiou<;h to make minute observa- tions of every thin}; .seen. We have been a month in the country, and all the time anionic its people. We have p.issed tlirou},'h 13 towns and cities, with populati^Il^ of from 5,C)00 to 1.300,- 000 and tIirou5,'h many hamlets and villaf,u;s of 300 or 400 peo- ple up to 2.000 and 3,000. We have passed vast acrca^a- of ciil- tixated fieliis. ami seen many thousands of i)eople en^aj^^-d in their daily avocations. We have slept in their houses and eaten of their food. We have seen them reikin<^^ in sweat, but never in ("ilth. Wi' have seen them in hilarious mirth, but ne\er once in violent ani;er. We h.ive seen them in their nakedness, but never once in .my tiling' like lewtlness. We h.ive setn them in toilinj; poverty, but have uevtr seen a sinj;le look of sullennessor of desi).ur. We have seen tluin in .abject poverty : we have never .seen tiiem be.iji^in^ alms, excipt in a few in>.t.inces of total blind- ness and decrepit a;.je. We have seen them in every wa\- shocking' all ])reconceived ideas of decency and modesty, yet we have never noticed a sin<;le look or e.\])res>ioii which would show tli.U any one was aware thini,'s weri' beini; ilone which modotj- would for- bid. We have seen children without .1 >t!tch of clothing coxeriii}; them, playing with children i^otten up in llu ir holid.iy finery. We have >een .1 iiKui p.aise from his work, witli only a h.md's breadth of cloth .d)out his loin-, and t.ilk w ith a neighbor in his richest visiting' clothes, .ind tli'; n.ikul m.in wore as loft)- .1 mien of di;L;nit\' .i-^ his comj>anion did in his robes. We h.ive met woiiu-n in till highway naked down to the hi|)s, and s.iw no look that betokened a single thouijht of >h.mie, and within a few luin- dreil yards we would meet a be. luliful, well-clothed woman whose eyes would drop in prttty modesty because we },Mve lur ,1 look of invohint,ir\- admir.ition. There is here no such tliiiiL; ;i> conven- tional decency or convention.il modesty. With ,1 liij^h civili/.i- tion— in ni,in\- re->])ecls very hiidi— the people -till seini to be. to a cert.iin extent, in a state fif .mim.d nature. Is the con-cieiice scared, or has conscience nevir been .tu.ikened by a sense of sin? The psycholo^'ist nui-t solvi' the problrni and answer the (piery ; 1 can not. I am still in a species of am.i.'.ement amont;' this incon- sistent, this ^'re.it, this little, this brit;hl, yet !.jrovellin;4 and, to a wistern m.in. immoral peo]^le. E.ich 1 \ear, as 1 tjrow okler. inu t he t. .f my more and more strontrly returninj^ to me. Hvirn and bred irm, I find irl_\- years on myself n ore interested in a.L,'riciiltiir,d pursuit aiK m m REChPTlO.X AT HOTEL. 57 productions, than in the works of groat cities. I shall, ii: accord- ance witli iliis disposition, lievote some of.my writing to wh:it we have seen and shall see of farming. Hut as we have seen this farming not by going upon the farm, hut in i)assing through them. it will not be amiss first to tell how we travel from tlay to liay. I'"or this purpose, imagine us four luen seated in pretty little co\ - ercd two-wheeleil siiring cirts, eacl; man witii a satchel between his feet, and each cart drawn l)y two native, nearly naki'd. men. We approach a village or town ; ami ' aviiig two pullers they dash through it at a tremendous pace with a cry of warning now to a pedestrian, tlu-n to a street vender, or to the drawer of another cart ; every one good-iiaturciily gets out of the way of the for- eigner and gives him a look of keen curiosity, never one of ilis- courtesy. Tiuj children stare at the graj'-bearded man, and per- haps crack a joke at his expense. The Japanese ari> a closely shaven people, ami a full beard attracts attention and does not, I suspect, win any admiration. The pretty young girls give a look of kinilly interest to the two fair j'oung men of the p.'rty, ami they both look conscious of deserving it. < )n we dasii at not far from a ten-miles-per-hour gait. Suddenly the shafts «autifull\' polisluil. .IS smooth, .is .my r. iscwooii juano, Tiu-se fl'iors Afcv gener.illy bl.ick and liiglily l.u (|U' rrd. A shor. s.md.il, or ( ;og is never .illowed to scr.itch or mar them. ( >ne of the w.iitrcsses at onie brings .i l.m|uered tray, on wliieii is a small teapot and four linv teacup-, rin'^t much I.»rger than an egg-hol»(Uing. has bi en poured <«•«:» the tc.i .ind is at aniH'e p^hT'-H /into the cups. It Has at hast t'lm nient of being liot, arvi*!. ti>«*];fU ireak. gives forth .i delicitte and delicious aroma. TIk- wrhffl^ lower floor of the hotel is open to the street, leseTO- Minj!. ;tn inh^datted sluil rather th.m .i house or system of rooms. \ Wl I t'-' ' <( ■ .:\ I If I e. I 58 /I RACE WITH THE SUN. the kitchens fully visible, and the conkii\tj apparatus all ex- 1. This Inst is not very elaborate in small inns, consisting; of posec a stciie- r earth-cle of minutes, be inserted, so as to